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C. s MORRISON AND QIBB, BDINBUROH PRINTSR3 TO HBB MATESXY S STATIONBBY OFFICR f^ VOYAGES EOUND THE WOELD BT CAPTAIN JAMES COOK Edited, with Notks, isto., bt D. LAING PUEVES NEW YORK: R. WORTHINGTON, 770 BROADWAY. 1883. C 77/v ^^ COOK'S VOYAGES BOUND THE WOEID. [It may here be montioued that, save for the episode of the first sojourn at Otaheite, taken below^from Dr Hawkesworth's account almost at full length, the synopsis of the famous discf srerer's first two voyages is taken from the third volume of " Maritime and Inland Discovery," pp. 28-69, in Dr Lard- ner's well-known but now not veiy easily attainable •' Cabinet Cyclopaedia." Chapters III. and IV. of Book V. runs as follows ; and they are none the less valuable, as introducing 8om<) brief preliminary record of a man whom England, without any injustice to earlier or later names, may honestly regard as her greatest navigator and her most indefatigable and successful discoverer, "We give the text of the " Cyclopaedia, " except for a few changes necessitated by severance from the context, precisely as we find it after two-and-forty years.] COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. "The interests of science and the acquisition of geographical knowledge entered largely into the motives of the circumnavigations [we have] re- lated. But the first expedition of importance, fitted out wholly for scientific objects, was that entrusted to the command of the celebrated Captain James Cook. This great na- >'igator was bom of humble parents : his father was an agricultural labourer, whose steady conduct was at length rewarded by his employer with the situation of hind or under-steward. As he had nine children, and his means were slender, he was unable to assist materially their individual exer- tions to procure a livelihood. James, when thirteen years of ago, was ap- prenticed to a shopkeeper at Straiths, a fishing town not far from Whitby ; but the predilection of young Cook for the sea was soon manifested with that strength of inclination which is sure to accompany peculiar talents. He engaged himself for seven yean with the owners of some ships eat- ployed in the coal trade; and, when the period of his engagement was ex- pired, he was promoted by his em- ployers to the rank of mate of one of their vessels. The coal trade of Eng- land, being chiefly carried on near a singularly dangerous coast, where un- ceasing vigilance is required on the Eart of the seamen, constitutes the est school of practical mariners in the world. Cook, who obeyed his own inclinations when he turned sailor, profited, no doubt, in the highest degree, from the opportuni- ties which his coasting voyages af- forded him of becoming acquainted with the practical part of navigation. At length, being in the Thames in 1755, wnen impressments were carried on to a great extent, he resolved to anticipate the impending necessity, and offered himself to serve on board the Eagle, a loau-of-war of 60 guns. 1347S1 COOK'S VOYAOKS. Shortly after, tho friends and patrons of his family in Yorkshire having ■warmly recommended his interests to the care of Mr Osbaldiston, the mem- ber for Scarborough, and Captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) Palliser, who commanded tho Eagle, reporting well of his conduct: and capacity, he was appointed master of the Mercury, a small vessel which soon afterwards joined the fleet of Sir Charles Saunders in the Gulf of St Lawrence. Here the talents and resolution of Cook soon became conspicuous. " It was found necessary, in order that the fleet might co-operate with the array under General Wolfe, that it should take up a position along the shore in front of the French encamp- ments ; but before this manoeuvre could be put in execution, the channel of the river was to be sounded. This difficult task required the union of more than ordinary intelligence and intrepidity, and Cook was the person selected for the purpose. For several nights he carried on his operations nnperceived ; but at length the enemy discovered his movements, and, send* ing out a great number of boats after it grew dark, attempted to surround tnd cut him off. Cook pushed for the Isle of Orleans ; and so narrowly did he escape being captured, that as he stepped on shore from the bow of his boat, tLe Indians in pursuit of him entered at the stern ; and the boat itself, which was a pinnace belonging to a man-of-war, was car- ried off by the 'xemy. Cook, how- ever, had accomplished his task,, and laid before the Admiral of the fleet a survey of the channel, which was found to be both full and accurate. After the conquest of Quebec he was appointed to examine the more diffi- cult portions of the Kiver St Law- rence, with the navigation of which the English had but little acquaint- ance. His zeal and abilities soon after procured him an appointment as master to the Northumberland, which bore the Commodore's flag at Halifax. Here he found leisure to apply himself to the study of elemen- tary mathematics, and to improve [VOT. 1. as a practical hydro* those talents grapher of which hehad given such ample proofs in his first rude essays. An opportunity also soon occurred of disjilaying his improvement by sur- veying a part of the coast of New. foundland. This island had lately fallen into the power of the English ; and its importance as a fishing station being fully appreciated by Sir Hugh Palliser, who was appointed governor in the year 1764, he strongly repre- sented to Government the necessity of making an accurate survey of its coasts; and, accordingly, by his re- commendation. Cook was appointed marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador, and the Grenville schooner was placed under his command for this purpose. The manner in which Cook executed this task confirmed the high opinion already entertained of his zeal and ability. A short paper which he communicated to the Koyal Society on an eclipse of the sun observed in Newfoundland, and the longitude of the place as cueiIcu- lated from it, procured him the char- acter of a respectable mathematician. " But still higher honours awaited him. The transit of the plr.net Venus over the sun's disc, calculated to take place in 1769, was looked for- ward to by the scientific world with much anxious interest ; and it was earnestly desired that all the advan- tage which could be derived to science from so rare a phenomenon might be secured by observing it in distant quarters of the globe. In accordance with this view, the Koyal Society pre- sented an address to the King, setting forth the advantage of observing the transit in the opposite hemisphere, their inability to fit out an expedition for the purpose, and praying nis Ma- jesirjT to equip a vessel to be despatched to the South Sea under their direction. This petition was at once complied with. The person at first designed to command the expedition was Mr Dalrymple, chief hydrographer to the Admiralty, and no less celebrated for his geographical knowledge than for his zeal in maintaining the existence of an Australian pontiuent. Dali'ymplo 1768.] LIFE OP CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. had never held a commission in his Majesty's navy ; and the experience of Dr Halley had proved that one so circumstanced cannot expect obedience from a crow subjected to the discipline of the navy. The pride of the pro- fession scorns to submit to those who liave not acquired their authority by passing through the ordinary routine of promotion. Dalrymple, however, refused to engage in the expedition unless with the amplest powers of a commander. The Admiralty, on the other hand, were unwilling to entrust him with powers which mij^ht embroil him with his oflScers. Neither party wodld yield ; and, while the affair thus remained in suspense, Cook was proposed. Inquiries were then made as to hia abilities ; and, as all who kaew him spoke favourably of him ; and great confidence is usually felt in the steady and concentrated talents of the self-taught, he was chosen to command the expedition, being first promoted to the rank of lieutenant. "It ia a proof of Cook's natural strength of understanding, that his mind was not enslaved by habits, but that he was always ready to introduce innovations into riis practice whenever they were recommended by common sense and experience. Instead of selecting a frigate, or vessel of that description, for his voyage, ho chose a vessel built for the coal trade, with the sailing qualities of which he was well acquainted. He justly repre- sented, that a ship of this kind was more capable of carrying the stores requisite for a long voyage ; was ex- posed to less hazard in running near coasts — an object of great importance in a voyage of discovery; was less affected by currents ; and, in case of any accident, might without much difficulty or danger, be laid on shore to undergo repairs. The ship which he chose was of 360 tons' burden, and jamed the Endeavour. No pains eous. Before the preparations were completed. Captain Wallia returned from his voyage round the world ; and having been adviued to fix on some spot in the South Sen conveniently situated for the erection of an observatory, he named Port Royal in King George the Third's Island oa a place well adapted fcr that purpose. •• Everything beine now prepared, Lieutenant Cook sailed fromPlymoutli on the 26th of August 1768. Ho touched at Rio Janeiro, where the Portuguese Governor, no less ignor- ant than suspicious, was much at a loss to comprehend the object of the expedition ; nor, after much trouble, was he able to form a juster idea of it, than that it was intended tr ob- serve the north star passing through the south pole. It was only by stealt h that Mr Banks could go ashore, though nature seemed here to teem with the objects of his research, and brillip'it butterflies flew round the ship to the height of the mast. In leaving this port, Cook, after the example of Byron, sailed over the position which had been assigned by Cowley to Pepys' Island, and finally dispelled all belief in its existence. He then directed his course through the Straits of L« Maire, to pass round Cape Horn. " The naturalists of tue expedition 8 landed on Tierra del Fuc^o, and, ciossinp a morass and some low woods, ascended the highest eminence they could descry. It was now midsummer in this region, and the temperature during the day was moderately warm, but as night approached snow fell in great quantities, and the cold became excessive. The exploring party, who had incautiously advanced too tar, were unable to effect their return to the shore before sunset, and were obliged to spend the night exposed to dl the inclemency of the weatlicr, in A singularly desolate and unsheltered region. Dr Solandor, who, having travelled in the north of Europe, was well acquainted with the fatal elFects of cold on the constitution, repeatedly admonished his companions to resist the tirst approach of drowsiness, as the sleep superinduced by cold is sure to prove fatal ; but he was the fii'st to feel the dangerous torpor he pre- dicted, and entreated his companions to allow him to lie down and take his rest ; but they, foi-tunately instructed by bis lessons, persisted in dragging him alon^, and thus saved Ms life. On reaching the woods in their de- scent, they kindled a fire, round which they spent the night ; and when the sun rose, they made their way to tlie ships ; but two of the party, ser- vants of Mr Banks, who lay down to rest in the snow, were found dead the next morning. "The voyage round Cape Horn into the Pacific occupied thirty-four days ; and Cook, who was rather for- tunate in his weather, seems to think it preferable to the passage through the Straits of Magellan. In his voyage through the ocean, he descried some timall islands, of the group which had been previously visited by Wallfs and Bougainville. He proceeded, how- ever, . direct to the place of his desti- nation, not allowing himself to be detained by unimportant discoveries. " [The account of Cook's tirst stay at Otaheite, and his transactions with the natives there, is altogether too curious and interesting to be dismissed witii the curt notice Dr Larduer ac- COOK'S VOYAGKS. [VoY. I. cords to it ; and we take the following particular narration from Dr Hawkos- worth's Collection of Voyages, as re- T)roduced by Kerr in his well-known History of Voyages and Travels (Edin- burgh, 1814; vol. xii., p. 423, ad finem). The section headings have not been regarded, the entire narra- tive being treated as what it really is — one consecutive story.] About 1 o'clock on Monday the 10th April, some of the people who were looking out for the island to which we were bound, said they saw land ahead, in that i)art of the horizon where it was expected to appear ; but it was so faint, that v/hether there was land in sight or not remained a matter of dispute till sunset. The next morning, however, at 6 o'clock, we were convinced that those who said they had discovered land were not mistaken ; it appeared to be very high and mountainous, extending from W. by S. half S. to W. by nT half N., and we krew it to be the same that Captain ^allis* had called King George the Thi ed's Island. We were delayed in our ajiproach to it by light airs and calms, so that in the morning of the 12th \re were but little nearer than we bad been the night before ; but about seven a breeze sprung up, and before eleven several canoes were seen making towards the ship. There were but few of them, however, that would come near ; and the people in those that did, could not be persuaded to come on board. In every canoe there were young plan- tains, and branches of a tree which the Indians call "E' Midho ;" these, as we aftOi wards learned, were brought as tokens of peace and amity; and the people in one of the canoes handed them up the ship's side, making sig- nals at the same time with great earnestness, which we did not imme- diately understand. At length we guessed that they wished these synai- bols should be placed in some conspi- ^ Who had circumnavigated the globe in 1766-1768 in the Dolphin, and come into hostile contact yriit the natives of Otaheite. 1769.] AURIVAL OF CU0U8 i»art of the ship ; we therefore inuiiediatoly stuck tliem among the rigging, at which they expressed the greatest satisfaction. We then pur- chased their cargoes, consisting of cocoa-nuts, and various kinds of fruit, which, after our long voyage, were very acceptable. Wo stood on with an easy sail all night, with soundings from twenty- two fathoms to twelve ; and about 7 o'clock in the morning wo came to an anclior in thirteen fatlioms in Port In of the earth, unless they nave leave so to do. III. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend to the same ; and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms or working tools, or suffers them to be stolen, the full value thereof will be charged rrainst his pay, ac- cording to the custom of the navy in such cases, and he shall re>:ei/e such further punidhment as the nai,are of the offence may deserve, lY. The samo penalty will be in- 10 COOK'S VOYAGES, flicted on every person who is found to embezzls, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's stores of what nature soever. V. No sort of iron, or anything that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful or necessary articles, are to be given in exchange for anything but provision. J. Cook. As soon as the ship was properly secured, I went on shore with Mr Banks and Dr Solan der, a party of men under arms, and our friend Owhaw. We were received from the boat by some hundreds of the inhabitants, whose looks at least gave us welcome, though they were struck with such awe, that the first Avho approached us crouched so low that he Im.ost crept upon his lia'ids and knees. It is remarkable, that he, like the people in the canoes, prcocnted to us the same symbol of peace that is known to have been in use among the ancient and mighty nations of the northern hemisphere — the green branch of a tree. We re- ceived it with looks and gestures of kindness and satisfaction ; and objerv- ing that each of them held one in his hand, we immediately gathered every one a bough, and carried it in our hands in the same manner. They marched with us about half a mile towards the place where the Dol- phin had watered, conducted by Ow- haw ; they then made a full stop, and having laid the ground bare, by clear- ing away all the plants that grew upon it, the principal persons among them threw their green branches upon the naked spot, and mad« si^ns tnat we should do the same. We immedi- ately showed our readiness to comply, and to give a greater solemnity to the rite, the marines were drawn up, and marching in order, each dropped his bough upon those of the Indians, and •we followed their example. We then proceeded, and when we came to the watering-place it was intimated to us by signs that we might occupy that ground ; but it happened not to be fit for our purpose. During oiu: walk they had uhaken off their first timid [VOY.I. sense of our superiority, and were be- come familiar : they went with us from the watering-place and took a circuit through the woods ; as we went along, we distributed beads and other small jjresents among them, and had the satisfaction to see that they were much gratified. Our circuit was not less than four or five miles, through groves of trees, which were loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and afforded the most grateful shade, Under these trees were the habitations of the people, most of them being only a roof without walls ; and the whole scene realised the poetical fables of Arcadia. We remarked, however, not without some regret, that in all our walk we had seen only two hogs, and not a single fowl. Those of our com- pany who had been here with the Dol- phin told us, that none of the people whom we had yet seen were of the first class ; they suspected that the chiefs had removed, and upon carrying us to the place where what they called the Queen's Palace had stood, we found that no traces of it were left. We determined therefore. to return in the morning, and endeavour to find out the noblesse in their retreats. In the morning, however, before we could leave the fhip, several canoes came about us, most of them from the westward, and two of them were filled with people who by their dress and deportment appeared to be of a superior rank. Two of these came on board, and each singled out his friend ; one of them, whose name we found to be Matahah, fixed upon Mr Banks, and the otlier upon me : this ceremony consisted i\± taking off great part of their clothes and putting them upon us. In return for this, we presented each of them with a hatchet and some beads. Soon after they made signs for ua to go with them to the places where theylived, pointing to the SW. ; and as I was desirous of finding a more commodious harbour, and mak- ing furtJier trial of the disposition of the people, I consented. I ordered out two boats, and with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, the other gentlemen, and our two Indian friends, 33 1769.J A VISIT PAID TO TWO CHIEFS. 11 we embarkedfor our expedition. After rowing about a league, thoy made signs tliat we should go on shore, and gave us to understand that this was the place of their residence. We accord- ingly landed, among several hundreds of the natives, who conducted us into a house of much greater length than any we had seen. When we entered, we saw a middle-aged man, whose name was afterwards discovered to be Tootahah ; mats were immediately spread, and we were desired to sit down over against him. Soon after we were seated, he ordered a cock and hen to be brought out, which he pre- sented to Mr Banks and me ; we ac- cepted the present, and in a short time each of us received a piece of cloth, perfumed after their manner, by no means disagreeably, which they took great pains to make us remark. The piece presented to Mr Banks was eleven yards long and tw7Tapped in cloth, and E laced on a kind of bier, supported y stakes, under a roof that seemed to have been set up for the purpose ; that near it were deposited some in- strumente of war, and other things, which he would particularly have examined but for the stench of the body, which was intolerable. He sai^ that he saw also two more sheds of the same kind, in one of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till they wore quite dry. We discovered, afterwards, that this was the way in which they usually disposed of their dead. A kind of market now began to be kept just without the lines, and wna plentifully supplied with everything 16 COOK'S VOYAGES. but pork. Tubonrai Tamaide was our constant guest, imitnting our manners, even to the using of a knife and fork, which he did very handily. As my curiosity was excited by Mr Monkhouse's account of the situation of the man who had been shot, I took an opportunity to go with some others to see it. I found the shed under which his body lay, close by the bouse in which he resided when he was alive, some others being not more than ten yards distant ; it was about fifteen feet long, and eleven broad, and of a proportionable height ; one end was wholly open, and the other end, and the two sides, were partly enclosed with a kind of wicker work. The bier on which the corpse was deposited was a frame of wood like that in which the sea-beds, called oota, are placed, with a matted bot- tom, and supported by four posts, at the height of about five feet from the ground. The body was covered first with a mat, and then with white cloth ; by the side of it lay a wooden mace, one of their weapons of war, and near the head of it, which lay next to the close end of the shed, lay two cocoa-nut shells, such as are some- times used to carry water in ; at the other end a bunch of green leaves, with some dried twigs, all tied to- gether, were stuck in the ground, ^by which lay a stone about as big sua a cocoa-nut. Near these lay one of the young plantain trees, which are used for emblems of peace, and close by it a stone axe. At the open end of the shed also hung, in several strings, a great number of palm-nuts, and with- out the shed was stuck upright in the ground the stem of a plantain tree about five feet high, upon the top of which was placed a cocoa-nut shell tall of fresh water. Against the side of one of the posts hung a small bag, containing a few pieces of bread-fruit ready roasted, which were not all put in at the same time, for some of them were fresh; and others stale. I took notice that several of the natives ob- served us with a mixture of solicitude and jealousy in their countenances. and by their gestures expressed uneosi- [VOT.I. ness when ww went near the body, standing themselves at a little dis* tance while we were making our exa- mination, and appearing to bo pleased when we came away. Our residence on shore would by no means have been disagreeable if we had not been incessantly torment- ed by the flies, which, among other mischief, made it almost impossible for Mr Parkinson, Mr Bank's natural history painter, to work ; for they not only covered his subject so as that no part of its surface could be seen, but even ate the colour off the paper aa fast as he could lay it on. We had recourse to mosquito-nets and fly- traps, which, though they made the inconvenience tolerable, were very far from removing it. On the 22a, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of this country ; four persons performed upon flutes, which had only two stops, and there- fore cculd not sound more than four notes by half tones. They wer^ sounded like our German flutes, ex- cept that the performer, instead of applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one nostril, while he stopped the other with his thumb. T' > these instruments four other pers( ns sung, and kept very good time; but only one tune was played during the wholo concert. Several of the natives brought xm axes, whicb they had received from on board the Dolphin, to grind and repair; but among others there was one which became the subject of much speculation, as it appeared to be French. After mucn inquiry, we learned that a ship had been here between our arrival and the departure of the Dolphin, which we then con- jectured to have been a Spaniard, but afterwards knew to have been the Boudeuse, commanded by M. de Bou- gainville. On the 24th, Mr Banks and I> Solander examined the country for several miles along the shore to the eastward. For about two miles it was flp*- and fertile; after that the hills stretched quite to the water's edge, and a little farther ran out intv Ipsa i the sea, so that they were obliged to climb over them. These hills, which were barren, continued for about tbree miles more, and then terminated iu a large plain, which was full of good houses, and people who appeared to lire in great affluence. In this place there was a river, much more con- siderable than that at ou fort, which issued from a deep and beautiful val- ley, and where our travellers crossed it, though at some distance from the sea, was near 100 yards wide. About a mile beyond this river the country became again barren, the rocks every- where projecting into the sea, for which reason they resolved to return. Just as they had formed this resolu- tion, one of the natives offered them refreshment, which they accepted. They found this man to be of a Kind that has been described by various authors as mixed with many nations, but distinct from them all. His skin was of a dead white, withput the least appearance of what is called com- plexion, though some parts of his body were in a small degree less white than others; his hair, eyebrows, and beard were as white as his skin ; his eyes aj^peared as if they were blood- snot, and he seemed to be very short- sighted. At their return they were met by Tubourai Tamaide and his women, who, at seeing them, felt a joy which not being able to express, they burst into tears, and wept some time before their passion could be re- strained. This evening Dr Solander lent his knife to one of these women, who neglected to return it, and the next morning Mr Banks's also was missing. Upon this occasion I must bear my testimony that the people of this country, of all ranks, men and women, are the arrantest thieves upon the face of the earth. The very aay after we arrived here, when they came on board us, the chiefs were employed in stealing what they could in the cabin, and their dependants were no less industrious in other- parts of the ship : they snatched up everything that it wus possible for them to se- crete, till they got on shore, even tc CASES OF THEFT. 17 which they Tubourai one except the glass ports, two of carried off undetected. Tamaide was the only Tootahah who had not been found guilty, and the presumption, arising from this circumstance, that he was exempt from a vice of which the whole nation besides were guilty, could not be supposed to outweigh strong appearances to the contrary. Mr Banks, therefore, though not without some reluctance, accused him of having stolen his knife. He solemnly and steac "'.y denied that he knew anything of i. ; upon which Mr Banks made him understand that whoever had taken it, he was deter- mined to have it returned. Upon this resolut',', declaration, one of the natives who was present produced a rag in which three knives were very carefully tied up. One was that which Dr Solander had lent to the woman, another was a table knife belonging to me, and the owner of the third was not known. With these the chief immediately set out in order to make restitution of them to their owners at the tents. Mr Banks re- mained with the women, who ex- pressed great apprehensions that some mischief was designed against their lord. When he came to the tents, he rest I one of tlie knives to Dr Solandei and another to me, the third not l^ing owned, and then began to search for Mr Banks's in all the places where he had ever seen it. After some time, one of Mr Banks's ser- vants, understanding what he was about, immediately fetched his mas- ter's knife, which it seems he had laid by the day before, and till now knew nothing of its having been missed. Tuboui-ai Tamaida, upon this demonstration of his innocence, expressed the strongest emotions of mind, both in his looks and gestures ; the tears started from his eyes, and he made signs with the knife, that, if he was ever guilty of such an action as had been imputed to him, he would submit to have his throat cut He then rushed out of the lines, and returned hastily to Mr Banks, with a countenance that severely reproached JB 18 COOK'S VOYAGES. him \nth his snspicions. Mr Banks soon understood that the knife had been received from his servant, and was scarcely less affected at what had happened than the chief; he felt himself to be the guilty person, and waa very desirous to atone for his fault The poor Indian, however violent his passions, was a stranger to sullen resentment; and upon Mr Banks's spending a little time famil- iarly with him, and nip.king him a few trifling presents, he forgot the wrong that had been done him, and was perfectly reconciled. Upon this occasion it may be ob- served that these people have a know- ledge of right and wrong from the mere dictates of natural conscience; and involuntarilycondemn themselves when they do that to others which they would condemn others ff-r doing to them. That Tubourai Taraaide felt the force of moral obligation, is certain ; for the imputation of an ac- tion which he considered as indiffer- ent, would not, when it appeared to be groundless, have mo\ ed him with such excess of passion. We must indeed estimate the virtue of these people by the conformity of their conduct to what in their opinion is right ; but we must not hastily con- clude that theft is a testimony of the same depravity in them that it is in us, in the instances in which our people were sufferers by their dis- honesty ; for their temptation was such as to surmount, would be con- sidered as a proof of uncommon in- tegrity among those who have more knowledge, better principles, and stronger motives to resist the tempta- tions of illicit advantage. An Indian among penny knives and beads, or even nails and broken glass, is in the same state of trial with the meanest servant in Europe among unlocked coffers of jewels and gold. ■On the 26th I mounted six swivel guns upon the fort, which I was sorry to see struck the natives with dread. Some fishermen who lived upon the point removed farther off, and Owhaw told us, by signs, that in four days we should fire great gous. tVOT. I. On the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide, with a friend, who ate with a voracity that I never saw before, and the three women that usually attended him, whose names were Terapo, Tirao, and Omie, dined at the fort. In the evening they took their leave, and set out for the house which Tubourai Tamaide had set up in the skirts of the wood ; but in less than a quarter of an hour he returned in great emo- tion, and hastily seizing Mr Banks's arm, made signs that he should fol- low him. Mr Banks immediately complied, and they soon came to a place where they found the ship's butcher, with a reaping-hojk in his hand. Here the chief stopped, and, in a transport of rage which rendered his signs scarcely intelligible, intl mated that the butcher had threat- ened, or attempted, to cut his wife's throat with the reaping-hook. Mr Banks then signified to him, that if he could fully explain the offence, the man should be punished. Upon this he became more calm, and made Mr Banks understand that the offender, having taken a fancy to a stono hatchet which lay in nis house, had offered to purchase it of his wife for a nail ; that she having refused to part with it upon any terms, he nad catched it up, and throwing down the nail, threatened to cut her throat if she made any resistance. To prove this charge, the hatchet and the nail were produced ; and the butcher had so little to say in his defence, that there was not the least reason to doubt of its truth. Mr Banks having reported this mat*-er to me, I took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with other Indians, were on board the ship, to call up the butcher, and after a recapitulation of the charge and the proof, I gave orders that he should be punished, as well to prevent other offences of the same kind, as to acmiit Mr Banks of his promise. The In- dians saw him stripped and tied up to the rigging with a fixed attention, waiting in silent suspense for the event ; but" as soon as the first stroke was given, they interfered with great CHANGKABLE TEMP^RAMElJT Of iTATIVES, agitation, earnestljr entreating that the rest of the punishment might be remitted. To this, however, for many reasons, I could not consent ; and when they found that they could not prevail bv their intercession, they gave vent to their pity by tears. Their tears, indeed, like those of children, were always ready to express any passion that was strongly excited, and, like those of children, they also appeared to be forgotten as soon as 1^ be transient, any more than that their passions should be suddenly and strongly expressed. What they feel they have never been taught either to disguise or suppress, and having no habits of thinking which perpetually recall the past, and anticipate the future, they are affected by all the changes of tho passing hour, and re- flect the colour of the time, however frequently it may vary. They have no project which is to be pursued from shed ; of which the following, among I day to day, the subject of unremitted many others, is a remarkable instance. Very early in the morning of the 28th, even before it was day, a gi-eat num- ber of them came down to the fort, and Terapo being observed among the women on the outside of the gate, Mr Banks went out and brought her in ; ho saw that the tears then stood in her eyes, and oa soon an she en- tered they began to flow in great abundance. He inquired earnestly the cause, but instead of answering, she took from under her garment a shark's tooth, and struck it six or seven times into her head with great force ; a profusion of blood followed, and she talked loud, but in a most melancholy tone, for some minutes, without at all regarding his inquiries, which he repeated with still more im- patience and concern, while the other Indians, to his great surprise, talked and laughed, without taking the least notice of her distress. But her own behaviour was still more extraordin- aiy. As soon as the bleeding was over, she looked up with a smile, and began to collect some small pieces of cloth, which during her bleeding she had thrown down to catch the blood ; as soon as she had picked them all up, she carried them out of the tent, • and threw them into the sea, carefully dispersing them abroad, as if she wisned to prevent the sight of them from reviving the remembrance of what she had done. She then plunged into the river, and after having washed her whole body, returned to the tents with the same gaiety and cheerfulness as if notliing had happened. It ia not indeed strange that the wuxowa of tktiiu ai'tleM puuple siioulii anxiety and solicitude, that first rushes into the mind when they awake in the morning, and ia last dis- missed when they sleep at night Yet, if we admit that they are upon the whole happier than we, we must admit that the child is happier than the man, and that we ore losers by the perfection of our nature, the increase of our knowledge, and the enlarge- ment of our views. Canoes were continually coming in during all this forenoon, and the tents at the fort were crowded with people of both sexes from different Earts of the island. I was myself usy on board the ship, but Mr Mol- lineux, our master, who was one of those that made the last voyage in the Dolphin, went on shore. As soon as he entered Mr Banks's tAit, he fixed his eyes upon one of the women, who was sitting there with ^eat compo- sure among the rest, and immediately declared her to be the person who at that time was supposed to be the queen of the island ; she also, at the same time, acknowledging him to be one of the strangers whom she had seen be- fore. The attention of all present was now diverted from every other object, and wholly engaged in con- sidering a person who had made so distinguished a figure in the accounts that had been given of this island by its first discoverers ; and we soon learned that her name was Oberea. She seemed to be about forty years of age, and was not only tall, but of a large make ; her skin was white, and there was an uncommon intelligence and flfinsibility in her eyes. She ap- peuieU tu have beiui luindaome wheu io COOK'S VoVAOfiS. [VOT. 1. she was young, but at this time little more than memorials of her beauty were left. As soon as her quality was known, an offer was made to conduct her to the ship. Of this she readily accepted, and came on board with two men and several women, who seemed to be all of her family. I received her with such marks of distinction as I thought would gratify her most, and was not sparing of my presents, among which this august personage seemed particu- larly delighted witn a child's doll. After some time spent on board, I at- tended her back to the shore ; and as soon as we landed, she presented me with a hog, and several bunches of plantains, which she caused to be carried from her canoes up to the fort in a kind of procession, of which she and myself brought up the rear. In our way to the fort we met Tootahah, who, though not king, appeared to be at this time invested with the sovereign authority. He seemed not to be well pleased with the distinction that was shown to the lady, and became so jealous when she produced her doll, that to propitiate him it was thought proper to compliment him with an- other. At this time he thought fit to prefer a doll to a hatchet ; but this preference aTose only from a childish lealousy, which could not be soothed but by a gift of exactly the same kind with that which had been presented to Oberea ; for dolls in a very short time were universally considered as trifles of no value. The men who had visited us from time to time had, without scruple, eaten of our provisions ; but the women had never yet been prevailed upon to taste a morsel. To day, however, though theyrefused the most pressing solicita- tions to dine with the gentlemen, they afterwards retired to the servants' apartment, and ate of plantains very heartily ; a mystery of female econo- my here, which none of us could ez< plain. On the 29th, not very early in the forenoon, Mr Banks went to pay his court to Oberea, and was told that she was still aslcpp under the awning cf her canoe. Thither, therefore, he went, intending to call her up, a liberty which he thought he mi^ht take without any danger of givmg offence. But, upon looking into her chamber, to his great astonishment he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow about five-and-twenty, whose name was Obad^e. He retreated with some haste and confusion, but was soon made to understand that such amours gave no occasion to scandal, and that Obad^e was universally known to have been selected by her as the object of her private favours. The lady being too polite to suffer Mr Banks to wait long m her antechamber, dressed herself with more than usual expedi- tion, and, as a token of special grace, clothed him in a suit of fine cloth, and proceeded with him to the tents. In the evening Mr Banks paid a visit to Tubourai Tamaide, as he had often done before, by candle light, and was equally grieved and surprised to find him and his family in a melancholy mood, and most of them in tears. He endeavoured in vain to discover the cause, and therefore his stay among them was but short. When he re- ported this circumstance to the offi- cers at the fort, they recollected that Owhaw had foretold that in four days we should fire our great guns ; and as this was the eve of the third day, the dituation in which Tubourai Tamaide and his family had been found, alarmed them. The sentries, therefore, were doubled at the fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms ; at two in the morn- ing, Mr Banks himself went round the point, but found everjrthing so quiet that he gave up all suspicions of mischief intended by the natives as groundless. We had, however, an- other source of security ; our little for- tification was now complete. The north and south sides consisted of a bank of earth four feet and a half high on the inside, and a ditch without, ten feet broad and six deep ; on the west side, facing the bay, there was a bank of earth four feet high, and palisadoes upon that, but no ditch, the works here being at high-water mark ; on the eai>t side, u]jou the bank of th« 1769.] TUnOTJRAI TAMA IDE'S USE OF TOBACCO. 21 river, WM placed a double row of water-casks tilled with water ; aud, as this was the weakest side, the two 4-pounders were planted there, and six swivel guns were mounted so as to command the only two avenues from tlie woods. Our garrison consisted of about five-and-forty men with bmall arms, including the officers, and the gentlemen who resided on shore ; and our sentries were as well relieved as on the best regulated frontier in Europe. We continued our vigilance the next lay, though we had no particular reason to think it necessary; but about 10 o'clock in the morning, Tomio came running to the tents, with a mixture of grief and fear in her countenance, and taking Mr Banks, to whom they applied in every emergency and distress, by the arm, intimated that Tubourai Tamaidewas dying, in consequence of something which our people had given him to eat, and that he must instantly go with her to his house. Mr Banks set out without delay, and found his Indian friend leaning his head against a post in an attitude of the utmost languor and despondency ; the people about him intimated that he had been vomiting, and brought out a leaf folded up with great care, which, they said, contained some of the poison, by the deleterious effects of Tjjhich he was now dying. Mr Banks hastily opened the leaf, and upon examining its contents, found them to be no other than a chew of tobacco, which the chief had begged of some of our people, and which they had indiscreetly given him. He had observed that they kept it long in the mouth, and being desirous of doing the same, he had chewed it to powder and swal- lowed the spittle. During the exam- ination of the leaf and its contents, he looked np at Mr Banks with the most piteous aspect, and intimated thaf he had but a very short time to live. Mr Banks, however, being now master of his disease, directed him to drink plentifully of cocoa-nut milk, which in a short time put an end to his sickness and apprenensions ; and he spent the day at the fort with that; uncommon flow of cheerfulness and goud-humour which is always pro- duced by a sudden and unexpected relief from pain either of body or mind. Captain Wallis having brought home one of the adzes which these people — having no metal of any kind — make of stone, Mr Stevens, the Secre- tary to the Admiralty, procured one to be made of iron in imitation of it, which I brought out with me, to show how much we excelled in making tools after their own fashion. This 1 had not yet produced, as it never hap- pened to come into my mind. But on the 1st of May, Tootahah, coming on board about 10 o'clock in the fore- noon, expressed a groat curiosity to see the contents of every chest and drawer that was in my cabin. Ajb I always made a point of gratifying him, I opened them immediately ; and having taken a fancy to many things that he saw, and collected them to* gether, he at last happened to cast his eye upon this adze. He instantly snatched it up with the greatest ea^r- ness, and, putting away everythinff which he had before selected, he asked me whether I would let him have thB,t. I readily consented ; and, as if he was afraid I should repent, he car- ried it off immediately in a transport of joy, without making any other re- (^uest, which, whativer had been our liberality, was seldom the case. About noon, a chief who had dined with me a few days before, accom- panied by some of his women, came on board alone. I had observed that he was fed by his women, but I made no doubt that upon occasion he would condescend to feed himself. In this, however, I found • myself mistaken. "When my noble guest was seated, and the dinner upon the table, I helped him to some victuals. As I observed that he did not ■mroediately begin his meal, I pressed him to eat; but he still continued to sit motionless like a statue, without attempting to put a single morsel into his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the servants had not fed him. 92 006K'a VOYAOES. (Tot. I. (a the aflornoon of Monday the l>t of May we set up the observatory, and took the afltronomical quadrant, with Bome other instruments, on shore, for the first time. The next morning, about 9 o'clock, I went on shore with Mr Green to fix the quadrant in a situation for use, when, to our inex- pressible surprise nnd concern, it was not to be found. It had been deposited in the tent which was reserved for my use, where, as I passed the night on board, nobody slept. It had never been taken out or the packing-case, which was eighteen inches square, and the whole was of considerable weight ; a sentinel had been posted the whole night within five yards of the tent door, and none of the other instru- ments were missing. We at first sus- pected that it might have been stolon by some of our own people, who, see- ing a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might think it contained nails, or some other subjects of traffic with the natives. A large reward was therefore offered to any one who could find it, as without this we could not perform the service for which our voy- age was principally undertaken. Our search in the meantime was not con- fined to the fort and places adjacent, but as the case might possibly have been carried back to the ship, if any of our own people had been the thieves, the most diligent search was made for it on board. All the parties, how- ever, returned without any news of the quadrant. Mr Banks, therefore, who upon such occasions declined neither labour nor risk, and who had more influence over the Indians than any of us, determined to go in search of it into the woods ; he hoped that if it had been stolen by the natives he should find it wherever they had open- ed the box, as they would immediately discover that to them it would be wholly useless; or, if in this expecta- tion he should be disappointed, that he might recover it by the as'cendancy he had acquired over the chiefs. He set out, accompanied by a midship- man and Mr Green, and as he was crossing th^ river he was met by Tu- boorai Tamaide, who immediately I made the figure of a triangle with three bits of straw upon his hand. By this Mr Banks knew that the In- dians were the thieves ; and that, although they had opened the case, they were not disposed to part with tho contents. No time was therefore to be lost, and Mr Banks made Tu- bourai Tamaide understand that he must instantly go with him to the place whither the quadrant had been carried. He consented, and they set out together to the eastward, the chief inquiring at every house which they passed after the thief by name. The people readily told him which way he was gone, and how long it was since he had been there. The hope which this gave them, that they should over- take nim, supported them under their fatigue ; and they pressed forward, sometimes walking, sometimes run- ning, though the weather was intoler- ably hot. When they had climbed a hill at the distance of about four miles, their conductor showed them a point full three miles farther, and gave them to understand that Dwy were not to expect the instrument till they had got thither. Here they paused ; they had no arms, except a pair of pistols which Mr Banks always car- ried in his pocket. They were going to a place that was at least seven miles dfttant from the fort, where the Indians might be less submissive than at home, and to take from them what they had ventured their lives to get, and what, notwithstanding our con- i'eotures, they appeared desirous to Leep. These were discouraging cir- cumstances, and their situation would become more critical at every step. They determined, however, i ot to re- linquish their enterprise, nor to pur- sue it without taking the be'st mea- sures for their security that were in their power. It was therefore deter- mined that Mr Banks and Mr Grepa should go on, and that the midship- man should return to m«, and desiie that I would send a party of men after them, acquainting me, at the same time, that it was impossible they should return till it was dark. Upon receiving this message, I set out with gnch a party as I thought sufllcicnt for the occasion, leaving orders, both at the ship nnd at the fort, that no canoe should bo suffered to go out of the bay, but that none of the natives should be seized or detained. In the mcnntime, Mr Banks and Mr Green pursued their journey, under the auspices of Tubourai Tam- ttide, and in tne very spot which he had specified, they met one of his own people, with part of a quadrant in his hand. At this most welcome sight they stopped ; and a great number of Indians immcdintoly came up, some of whom pressing rather rudely upon them, Mr Banks thought it necessary to show one of his pistols.Mhe sight of which reduced them instantly to order. As the crowd that gathered round them was every moment in- creasing, he marked out a circle in the grass, and they ranged themselves on the outside oi it, to the number of several hundreds, with great quietness and decorum. Into the middle of this circle, the box, w^uh was now arrived, was ordered ■ be brought, with several reading gliisaes, r id other small matters, which in tht.r hurry they had put into a pistol-r ose that Mr Banks knew to be his property — it having been some time before stolen from the tents, with a horse pistol in it, which he immediately demanded, and which was all restored. Mr Green was impatient to «ee whether all that had been taken away was returned, and upon examining the box found the stand, and a few small things of less consequence want- ing. Several persons were sent in search of these, and most of the small things were returned. But it was sig- nified that the thief had not brough*. the stand so far, and that it would be delivered to our friends as they went back ; this being confirmed by Tubourai Tamaide, they prepared to return, as nothing would then be wanting but what might easily be supplied ; and after they had advanced about two miles, I met them with my party, to our mutual satisfaction, con- gratulating each other upon the re- covery of the quadrant, witn a pleasure THEFT OF A QUADRANT. 2.3 proportioned to the importance of the event. About 8 o'clock, Mr Banks, with Tubourai Tamaide, got back to the fort ; when, to his great surprise, he found Tootahah in custody, and many of the natives in the utmost terror and distress, crowding about the gate. He went hastily in, some of the In- dians were suffered to follow him, and the scene was extremely affecting. Tubourai Tamaide pressing forward, ran up to Tootahah, and catching him in his arms, they both burst into tears, and wept over each other, with- out being able to speak ; the other Indians were also in tears for their chief, both he and they being strongly possessed with the notion that he was to be put to death. In this situation they continued till I entered the fort, which was about a quarter of an hour afterwards. I was equally surprised and concerned at what had happened, the confining Tootahah being contrary to my orders, and therefore instantly set him at liberty. Upon inquiring into the affair, 1 was told, that my going into the woods with a party of men under arms, at a time when > robbery had been committed, which it was supposed I should resent in proportion to our apparenl injury by the loss, had so alarmed the natives, that in the evening they began to leave the neighbourhood of the fort, with their effects ; that a double cano<) having been seen to put off from im bottom of the bay by Mr Gije, the second lieutenant, who Tias left in command on board the ship, and who had received orders not to suffer any canoe to go out, he sent the boatswain with a boat after her to bring her back ; that as soon as the boat came up, the Indians, being alarmed, leaped into the sea and that, Tootahah being unfortunately one of the number, the boatswain took him up and brought him to the ship, suffering the rest of the people to swim on shore ; that Mr Gore, not sufficiently attending to the order that none of the peoplp should bo confined, had sent him to the fort, and Mr Hicks, the first lien- tenant, who commanded there, receiv- 24 COOK'S y ing him in charge from Mr Gore, did not think himself at liberty to dismiss him. The notion that we intended to put him to death had possessed him so strongly, that he could not be persuaded to the contrary till by my orders he was led out of the fort. The J)eople received him as they would lave done a father in the same circum- stances, and every one pressed forward to embrace him. Sudden joy is com- monly liberal, without c. scrupulous regard to merit ; and Tootahah, in the first expansion of his heart, upon being unexpectedly restored to liberty and life, insisted upon our receiving a present of two hogs ; though, being* conscious thct upon this occasion we had no claim to favours, we refused them many times. Mr Banks and Dr Solander attended the next morning in their usual capa- city of market-men ; but very few Indians appeared, and those who came brought no provisions. Tootahah, liowever, sent some of his people for the canoe that had been detained, which Ihey took away. A canoe hav- ing also been detained that belonged to Oberea, Tupia, the person who managed her affairs when the Dolphin was here, was sent to examine whether anything on board had been taken away ; and he was so well satisfied of the contrarj', that he h;ft the canoe where he found it, and joined us at the fort, where he spent the day, and Glept on board the canoe at night. About noon, some fishing-boats came abreast of the tents, but would part with very little of what they had on boaT.*d ; and we felt the want of cocoa- nuts and bread-fruit very severely. In the course of the day, Mr Banks walked out into thn woods, that by conversing with the people he might recover their confidence and good- will. He found them civil, but they all complained of the ill-treatment of tlieir chief, who, the}' said, had been beaten and pulled by the hair. Mr Banks endeavoured to convince them that he hnd suffered no personal vio- lence, which, to the best of our know- ledge, was true ; yet, perhaps, the boatswain \.ni behavedwitliabrutality OYACxES. [Toy. I. which he was afraid or ashamed to acknowledge. The chief himself be- in^ probably, upon recollection, of opinion that we had ill-deserved the hogs which he had left with us as a present, sent a messenger in the after- noon to demand an axe and a shirt in return ; but es I was told that he did not intend to come down to the fort for ten days, I excused myself from giving them till I should gee him, hoping that his impatience might induce him to fetch them, and know- ing that absence would probably con- tinue the coolness between us, to which the first interview might put an end. The next day we were still more sensible of the inconvenience we had incurred by giving offence to the peo- ple in the person of their chief ; for the market was so ill supplied that we were in want of necessaries. Mr Banks therefore went into the woods to Tubourai Tamaide, and with some difficulty persuaded him to let us have five baskets of bread-fruit ; a very seasonab) i supply, as they contained above 120. In tiie afternoon another messenger arrived from Tootahah for the axe and shirt. As it was now be- come absolutely necessary to recover the friendship of this man, without which it would be scarcely possible to procure provisions, I sent word that Mr Banks and myself would visit him on the morrow, and bring what he wanted with us. Early the next morning he sent again to remind me of my promise, and his people seemed to wait, till we should sot out, with great impatience. I therefore ordered the pinnace, in which I embarked with Mr Banks and Dr Solander about 10 o'clock. "We took one of Tootahah's people in the boat with us, and in about an hour we arrived at his place of resi- dence, which is called Eparre, and is about four miles to the westward of the tents. We found the people waiting for ua in great numbers upon the shore, so that it would have been imimssible for us to have proceeded, il way had not been made for us by a tuU weU- [VOY.I. ifraid or ashamed to rhe chief himself be- ipon recollection, of had ill-deserved the lad left with us as a lessenger in the after- an axe and a shirt ia was told that he did me down to the fort excused myself from I should see him, i impatience might tch them, and know- would probably con- less between us, to interview might put we were still more iconvenience we had ig offence to the peo- 1 of their chief; for so ill supplied that of necessaries. Mr vent into the woods aide, and with some ed him to let us have bread-fruit ; a very f, as they contained le afternoon another d from Tootahah for . As it was now be- necessary to recover r this man, without s scarcely possible to IS, I sent word that rselfwould visit him and bring what he b morning he sent me of my promise, eoj)le waiting for us U])on the shore, so I'e been impossible ceoded, it way had • us by a tull weU- 1760.] looking man, who had something like a turban about his head, an 1 a lone white stick in his hand, with which he laid about him at an unmerciful rate. This mnn conducted us to the chief, wnile the people shouted round us, " do Tootahah, "— " Tootahah is your friend. " We found him, like an ancient patriarch, sitting under a tree, with a number of venerable old men standing round him. He made a sign to us to sit down, and immedi- ately asked for his axe ; this I pre- sented to him, with an upper garment of broad cloth, made after the country fashion, and trimmed with tape, to which I also added a shirt. He re- ceived them with great satisfaction, and immediately put on the garment ; but the shirt he gave to the person who had cleared the way for us upon our landing, who was now seated by us, and of whom he seemed desirous that we should take particular notice. lu a short time, Oberea, and several other women whom we knew, came and sat down among us. Tootahah left us several times, but after a short absence returned ; we thought it h.^.H been to show himself in his new fin?,ry to the people, but we wronged him, for it was to give directions for our refreshment and entertainment. "While we were waiting for his return thb last time he left us, very impr lient to be dismissed, as we were almost suflfbctit- ed in the crowd, word was brought us tht t he expected us elsewhere. We found him sUting under the awning of our own boat, and making • signs that we should come to him. As many of us, therefore, went on board as the boat would hold, and he then ordered bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to be brought, of both which we tasted, rather to gratify him than oecause we had a desire to eat. A messago was soon after brought him, upon which he went out of the boat, and we were in a short time desired to follow. We were conducted to a large area or court- yard, which was railed round with bamboos about three feet high, on one side of his house, where an entertain- ment was provided for us, entirely now. This was a wrestling-match. A VISIT TO TOOTA.IAH. a« At the upper end of the area sat the chief, and several of his principal men were ranged on each side of him, so as to form a semicircle ; these were the judges, by ^hom the \ ictor was to be applauded. Seats were alc^ left for us, at each end of the line ; but we chope rather to be at liberty . nong tho rest of the spectators. When aU was ready, ten or twelve persons, whoiu we understood to be the combatants, and who were naked, except a cloth that was fastened about the waist, entered the rea, and walked slowly round it, in a stooping posture, with their left hands on their right breasts, and their right 'ands open, with which they freque-iliy struck the left fore-arm so as to ' »roduce a quick smart sound. This was a general chal- lenge to tho combatants whom they \rere to engage, or any other person present. After these followed others, in the same manner ; and then a par- ticular challenge was given, by wlich each man singled out his antagonist. This was done by joining the finger onds of both hands, and bringing them to the breast, at the same time mov- ing the elbows up and down with a quick motion. If the person to whom this was addressed accepted the chal- lenge, he repeated the signs, and im- mediately each put himself into an attitude to engage. The next minute they closed, but, except in first seizing each other, it was a mere contest of strength ; each endeavoured to lay hold of the other, first by the thigh, and if that failed by the hand, the liair, the cloth, or elsewhere as he cevild. When this was done they grappled, without the least dexterity or skill, till one of them, by having a more advantageous hold, or greater muscular force, threw the other on his back. When the contest was over, tho old men gave their plaudit to the victor in a few words, which they re- peated together in a kind of tune ; his conquest was also generally celebrated by three huzzas. The entertainment was then suspended for a few minutes, after which another couple of wrestlers came forward and engaged iii the saiat manner. If it happened that neither 26 COOK'S VOYAGES. IToT.L was thrown, after tlie contest had continued about a minute, they parted, . either by consent or the intervention of their friends ; and in this case each slapped his arm, as a challenge to a new engagement, either with the same antagonist or some other. While the wrestlers were engaged, another party of men performed a dance, whichlasten also about a minute ; but neither of these parties took the least notice of each other, theirattention being wholly fixed on what they were doing. We observed with pleasure, that the con- queror never exulted over the van- quished, and that the vanquished never repined a* the success of the concjueror; the whole contest was earned on with perfect good-will and good-humour, though in the presence of at least 600 spectators, of whom some were women. The number of women, indeed, was comparatively small ; none but those of rank were present ; and we had reason to believe that they would not have been spec- tators of this exercise but in compli- ment to us. This lasted about two hours ; during all which time, the man who had made a way for us when we landed, kept the people at a proper distance, by striking those who pressed forward very severely with his stick. Upon inquiry we learned that he was an officer belonging to Tootahah, acting as master of the ceremonies. It is scarcely possible, for those who are acquainted with the athletic sports of very remote antiquity, not to remark a rude resemblance of them in this wrestling-match among the natives of a little island in the midst of the Pa- cific Ocean. And female readers may recollect the account given of them by Fenelon in his Telemachus, where, though the events are fictitious, the manners of the age are faithfully tran- scribed from authors by whom they are supposed to have been truly re- lated. When the wrestling was over, we were given to understand that two ho^s, and a large quantity of bread- fmit, were preparing for our dinner ; which, as our appetites wore now keen, was very agreeable intelligence. Our host, however, seemed to repent of his liberality ; for, instead of setting his two hogs before us, he ordered one of them to be carried into our boat : at first we were not sorry for this new disposition of matters, thinking that we should dine more comfortably in the boat than ( a shore, aa the crowd would more easily be kept at a dis- tance ; but when we came on board, he ordered us to proceed with his hog to the ship. This was mortifjang, as we were now to row four miles while our dinner was growing cold; however, we thought fit to comply, and were at last gratified with the cheer that he had provided, of which ho and Tu- bourai Tamaide had a liberal share. Our reconciliation with this man operated upon the people like a charm ; for he waf, no sooner known to be on board, t?ian bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions were brought to the fort in great plenty. Affairs now went on in the usual channel ; but pork being still a scarce commodity, our master, Mr Mollineux, and Mr Green, went in the pinnace to the east- ward, on the 8th, early in the morn- ing, to see whether the time he could get out of the boat, they had advanced within ten yards of him ; they then stopped, and made signs that he should do so too, laying down about a dozen young plantain trees, and some other small plants. He complied, and, the people having made a lane between them, the n. in, who appeared to be a servant, brouf lit six of thom to Mr Banks by one of each at a time, passing and repassing six times, and always pronouncing a short sentence when he delivered them. Tupia, who stood by Mr Banks, acted as his master of the ceremonies, and, receiving the branches as they were brought, laid them down in the boat. When this was done, another man brought a large bundle of cloth, which having opened, ho spread piece by piece upon the ground, in the space Detween Mi Banks and his visitors. There were nine pieces, and having laid three pieces one upon another, theforemostof the women, who seemed to be the principal, and who was called Oorattooa, stepped upon them, and taking up her garments all around hor to the waist, turned about, with great composure and deliberation, and with an air of perfect innocence and simplicity, three times. When this was done, she dropped the veil, and stepping off the cloth, three more pieces were laid on, and she repeated the ceremony, then stepping off as before ; the last three were laid on, and the ceremony was repeated in the same manner the third time. Imme- diately after this the cloth was rolled up, and given to Mr Banks as a pre- sent from the lady, who, with her friend, came up and saluted him. He made such presents to them both as ho thought would be most acceptable, and after having stayed about an hour tbay tf^ away. In the evening the gentlemen at the iort had a visit from Oberea, and her favourite female at- tendant, whose name was Otheothea, an agreeable girl, whom they were the more pleased to see, because, having been some days absent, it had been reported she was either sick or dead. On the 13th, the market being over a'ouuc 10 o'clock, Mr Banks walked into the wood? with his gun, as he generally did, for the benefit of the shade in the heat of the day. As he was returning, he met Tubourai Tamaide, near his occasional dwell- ing, and stopping to spend a little time with him, he suddenly took the ^n out of Mr Banks's hand, cocked it, and holding it up in the air, drew the trigger ; Tortunately for liim it flashed in the pan. Mr Banks im- mediately took it from him, not a little surprised how he had acquired sufficient knowledge of a gun to dis- charge it, and reproved him with great severity for what he had done. As it was of infinite importance to keep the Indians totally ignorant of the management of fire-arms, bo had taken eveiy opportunity of intimat- ing that they could never offend him so highly as by even touching his piece ; it waa now proper to enforce this prohibition, and he therefore added threats to his reproof. The Indian bore all patiently ; but the moment Mr Banks crossed the river, he set off with all hia family and furniture for his house at Eparre. Tins being quickly known from the Indians at the fort, and great incon- venience being apprehenaed from the displeasure of this man, who upon all occasions had been particularly use- ful, Mr Banks determined to follow him without delay, and solicit his return. He set out the same evening accompanied by Mr Mollineux, and found him sitting in the middle of a large circle of p^ple, to whom he had probably related what had hap- pened, and his fears of the conse- quences. He was himself the very picture of grief and dejection, and the same passions were strongly marked in the countenances of all the people that surrounded him, mmmmi 1769.] THE NATIVES ATTEND DIVINE SERVICE. 20 When Mr Banks and Mr MoUineux went into the circle, one of the women expressed lier trouble as Ter- apo had (lone upon anotlier occasion, and struok a shark's tooth into her head several times till it was covered with blood. Mr Banks lost no time in putting an end to this universal distress ; he assured the chief that everything which had passed ghould be forgotten, that there was not the least animosity remaining on one side, nor anything to be feared on the other. The chief was soon soothed into confidence and com- placency, a double canoe was ordered to be got ready, they all returned together to the fort before supper, and, as a pledge of perfect reconcilia- tion, both he and his wife slept all night in Mr Banks's tent. Their pre- sence, however, was no palladium ; for, between 11 and 12 o clock, one of the natives attempted to get into the fort by scaling the walls, with a design, no doubt, to steal whatever he should happen to find. He was discoveredbythesentinel, whohappily did not fire, and he ran away much faster than any of our people could follow him. 1 he iron and iron-tools which were in continual use at the armourer's forge that was set up within the works, were temptations to theft which none of these people could withstand. On the 14th, which was Sunday, I directed that divine service should be performed at the fort. We were de- sirous xhat some of the principal Indians should be present ; but when the hour came, most of them were returned homo. Mr Banks, however, crossed the river, and brought back Tubourai Tamaide and his wife "''cmio, hoping that it would give occ si'- to some inquiries on tneii part, and some instruction on ours. Having seated them, he placed himself be- tween them, and during the whole ser/ice they very attentively observ- ed his beliaviour, and very exactly imitated it ; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw him do. "They were conscious that we were employed abwut liomewhat serioiu and impor- tant, as appeared by their calling to the Indians without the ibrt to be silent ; yet when the service waa over, neither of them asked any questions, nor would they attend to any attempt that was made to ex- plain what had been done. On the 14th and 15th, we had another opportunity of observing the f general knowledge which these people lad of any design that was formed among them. In the night between the 13th and 14th, one of the water- casks was stolen from the outside of the fort. In the morning there waa not an Indian to be seen who did not know that it was gone ; yet they ap- peared not to have been trusted, or not to have been worthy of trust ; for they seemed all of them disposed to give intelligence where it might be found. Mr Banks traced it to a part of the bay where he was told it had been put into a canoe ; but, as it was not of great consequence, he did not complete the discoveiy. When he returned, he was told by Tubourai Tamaide that another cask would be stolen before the morning. How he came by this knowledge it is not easy to imagine ; that he waa not a part^ in the design is certain, for he came with his wife and family to the place where the water-casks stood, and E lacing their beds near them, he said e would himself be a pledge for their safety, in despite of the thief. Of this, however, we would not admit, and making them understand that a sentry would be placed to watch the casks till the morning, he removed the beds into Mr Banks'' tent, whero he and his family spenj the night, maV-ng signs to the sentry when he retiKi, that he should keep his eyes open. In the night this intelligence appeared to be true ; about 12 o'clock the thief came, but discovering t'*at a watch had been set, he went away without his booty. Mr Banks's confidence in Tubourai Tamaide had greatly increased since the affair of the knife, in consequence of which he was at length expo83d to temptations which neither his integ- rity uor his honour waa able to resiat. ^ 80 COOK'S TOYAQfiS. [VoY.t They had withstood many allure- ments, but were at length ensnared by the fascinating charms of a basket of nails. These nails were much larger than any that had yet been brought into trade, and had, with perhaps some degree of criminal neg- ligence, been left in a corner of Mr Banks's tent, to which the chief had always free access. One of these nails Mr Banks's servant happened to see in his possession, upon his having inarlvertcntly thrown back that part of his garment under which it was concealed. Mr Banks being told of this, and knowing that no such thing had been given him either as a pre- sent or in barter, immediately ex amined the basket, and discovered that out of seven nails five were missing. He tlien, though not with- out great reluctance, charged him with the fact, which he immediately cor essed, and, however he might sufier, was probably not more hurt than his accuser. A demand was immediately made for restitution ; but this he declined, saying that the nails were at Eparre. However, Itlr Banks appearing to be much in earnest, and using some threatening signs, he thought fit to produce one of them. He was then taken to the fort, to receive such judgment as should be given against him by the general voice. After some delibera- tion, that we might not ai>pear to think too lightly of his offence, he was told, that if he would bring the other four nails to the fort, it should be forgotten. To this condition he agreed ; but I am sorry to say he did not fulfil it. Instead of fetching the nails, he removed with his family before night, and took all his furni- ture with him. As our long-boat had appeared to be leaky, I thought it necessary to (' amine her bottom, and to my great ( rprisp, found it so much eaten by i"<» worms, that it was necessary to .1 her a new one. No such acci- doiiC had happened to the Dolphin's boats, as I was infonned by the officers on board, and therefore it was a misfortune that I did not expect. I feared that the pinnace also might be nearly humour, his stay was short, and his departure abrupt. Mr Monkhouse, the surgeon, went the next uioruiug 1769.] MR BANKS HAS HIS in order to eflect a reconciliation, by persuading him to bring down the nails ; but he could not succeed. On the 27th, it was determined that •we should pay our visit to Tootahah, though we were not very confident that we should receive the hogs for our pains. I therefore set out early in tne morning, with Mr Banks and Pr Solander, and three others, in the pinnace. He was now removed from Tettahah, where Mr Hicks had seen him, to a i)lace called Atahourou, about six miles farther ; and as we could not go above half-way thither in the boat, it was almost evening before we arrived. We found him in his usual state, sitting under a tree, with a great crowd about him. We made our presents in due form, con- sisting of a yellow stuff petticoat and some other trifling articles, which wore graciously received; a hog was immediately ordered to be killed and dressed for supper, with a promise of more in the morning. However, as we were less desirous of feasting upon our journey than of carrying back with us provisions, which would be more welcome at the fort, we procured a reprieve for the hog, and supped upon the fmits of the country. As night now came on, and ihe place was crowded with many more than the houses and canoes Avould contain, there being Oberea, with her attend- ants, and many other travellers whom we knew, we began to look out for lodgings. Our party consisted of six. Mr Banks thought himself fortunate in being offered a place by OLerea in her canoe, and wishing his friends a good-night, took his leave. He went to rest early, according to the custom of the country, and taking off his clothes, as was his constant practice, the nights being hot, Oberea kindly insisted upon taking them into her own custody, for otherwise, she said, they would certainly be stolen. Mr Banks, having such a safe guard, resigned himself to sleep witli all imnginable tranquillity ; but waking about 11 o'clock, and wanting to get up, he searched for his clothes where ho had seen them deposited by Oberea CLOTHES STOLEN. 31 when he lay down to sleep, and soon perceived that they were amissing. He immediately awakened Oberea, who, starting up and hearing his complaint, ordered lights, and pre- Eared in great haste to recover what e had lost. Tootahah himself slept in the next canoe, and being soon alarmed, he came to them, and set out with Oberea in search of the thief. Mr Banks was not in a condition to go with them, for of his apparel scarce anything was left him but his breeches. His coat and his waistcoat, with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things that were in the pockets, were gone. In about half-an-hour his two noble friends returned, but without having obtained any intelligence of his clothes or of the thief. At first he began to be alarmed ; his musket had not indeed been taken away, but he had neglected to load it. Wher* I and Dr Solander had disposed of ourselves he did not know ; and there- fore, whatever might happen, he could not have recourse to us for assistance. He thought it best, however, to ex- press neither fear nor suspicion of those about him ; and giving his musket to Tupia, who had been waked in the confusion and stood by him, with a charge not to suffer it to be stolen, he betook himself again to rest, declaring himself perfectly satis- fied with the pains that Tootahah and Oberea had taken to recover his things, though they had not been successful. As it cannot be supposed that in such a situation his sleep was very sound, he soon after heard music, and saw lights at a little distance on shore. This was a concert or assembly, which they call a Heiva, a common name for every public exhibition ; and as it would necessarily bring many people together, and there was a chance of my being among them with his other Mends, he rose and made the best of his way towards it. He was soon led by the lights and the sound to the hut where I lay, with three other gentlemen of our party ; and easily distinguishing us from the rest, lie made up to us more than half naked, and told us his melancholy story. We 32 COOK'S VOYAGES. gave him such comfort as the unfor- tunate generally give to each other, by telling him that wo were fellow- sufferers. 1 showed him that I was myself without stockings, they having been stolen from under my head, though I was sure I had never been asleep ; and each of my associates convinced him by his appearance that he had lost a jacket. We determined nevertheless to hear out the concert, however deficient we might appear in our dress. It consisted of three drums, four flutes, and several voices. Whenthisentertainment, which lasted about an hour, was over, we retired again to our sleeping places, having agreed that nothing could be done toward the recovery of our things till the morning. We rose at daybreak, according to the custom of the country. The first man that Mr Banks saw was Tupia, faithfully attending with his musket; and soon after, Oberea brought him some of her country clothes as a suc- cedaneum for his own ; so that when he came to us he made a most motley appearance, half Indian and half Eng- lish. Our party soon got together, except Dr Solander, whose quarters we did not know, and who had not assisted at the concert. In a short time Tootahah made his appearance, and we pressed him to recover our clothes ; but neither he nor Oberea could be persuaded to take any mea- sure for that purpose, so that we began to suspect that they had been parties in the theft. About 8 o'clock we were joined by Dr Solander, who had fallen into honester hands, at a house about a mile distant, and had lost nothing. Having given up all hope of recover- ing our clothes, which indeed were never afterwards heard of, we spent all the morning in soliciting the hogs which we had been promised ; but in this we had no bettei success. We therefore, in no very good humour. Bet out for the boat about 12 o'clock, with only that which we had redeemed from thb butcher and the cook tne night before. As wo were returning to the boat, howover, we were entertained with a PTOY. I. sight that in some measure compen- sated for our fatigue and disappoint- ment. In our way we came to one of tlie few places wliere access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and consequently a high surf breaks upon the shore. A more dreadful one in- deed I had seldom seen. It was im- possible for any European boat to have lived in it ; and if the best swimmer in Europe had by any acci- dent been exposed to its fury, I am confident that he would not have been able to preserve himself from drown- ing, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large stones. Yet in the midst of these breakers were ten or twelve Indians sv/imming for their amusement. Whenever a surf broke near them they dived under it, and, to all appearance with infinite facility, rose again on the other side. This diversion was greatly improved by the stem of an old canoe, which they happened to find upon the spot. They took this before them, and swam out with it as far as the outennost breach ; then two or three of them, getting into it, and turning the square end to the breaking wave, were driven in towards the shore with incredible rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach ; but generally the wave broke over them before they got half way, in which case they dived, and rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands. They then swam out with it again, and were again driven back, just as our holiday youth climb the hill in Greenwich Park for the plea- sure of rolling down it. At this won- derful scene we stood gazing for more than balf-an-hour, during wliich time none of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed to enjoy their sport in the highest degree. We then proceeded on our journey, and late in the evening got back to the fort. Among other Indians that had visited us, there were some from a neighbouring island wliich they called Eimeo or Inmo, the same to which Captain Wallis had given the name of the Duke of York's Island; and they gave ua au account of no lesa 1769.1 PREPAHATIONS TO OBSERVE TRANSIT OF VENTTS. S9 than two-and-twenty islands that lay in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. As the day of observation now ap- proached, I determined, in conse- quence of some hints which had been given me by Lord Morton, to send out two parties to observe the transit from other situations, lioping that if we should fail at Otaheite, they might have better success. We were, there- fore, now busily employed in prepar- ing our instruments, and instructing such gentlemen ip the use pf them as I intended to serd out. On Thurs- day the 1st of June, the Saturday following being the day of the transit, I despatched Mr Gore in the long- boat to Imao, with Mr Monkhouse and Mr Sporing, a gentleman belong- ing to Mr Banks, Mr Green having furnished them with proper instru- ments. Mr Banks himself thought fit to go upon this expedition; and several natives, particularly Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio, were also of the party. Very early on the Friday morning, I sent Mt Hicks, with Mr Clerk and Mr Petersgill, the master's mates, and Mr Saunders, one of the midshipmen, in the pinnace to the eastward, with orders to fix on some convenient spot at a distance from our principal observatory, where they also mi^ht employ the instruments with which they had been furnished for the same purpose. The long-boat not having been got ready till Thursday in the afternoon, though all possible expedition was used to fit her out, the people on board, after having rowed most part of the night, brought her to a grap- Sling just under the land of Imao. oon after daybreak they saw an Indian canoe, which they hailed, and the people on board showed them an inlet through the reef, into which they pulled, and soon fixed upon a coral rock, which rose out of the water about 150 yards from the shore, as a proper situation for their obser- vatory. It was about eighty yards loner and twenty broad, and in the middle of it was a bed of white sand, large enough for the tents to stand upoD. Mr Gore and his a&sistants immediately began to set them up, and make other necessary prepara- tions for the important business of the next day. Wnile this was doing, Mr Banks, with the Indians of Ota- heite, and the people whom they had met in the canoe, went ashore uponi the main island to buy provisions; of which he procured a sufficient supply before niglit. When ho re- turned to the rock he found the ob- servatory in order, and the telescopeai ^1 fixed and tried. The evening was very fine, yet their solicitude did not permit them to take much rest in the night ; one or other of them was up every half- hour, w|io satisfied the impatience of the rest by reporting the changes of the sky — now encour- aging their hope by telling them that it was clear, and now alarming their fears by an account that it was hazy. At daybreak they got up, and had the satisfaction to see the sun rise without a cloud. Mr Banks then wishing the observers, Mr Gore ami Mr Monkhouse, success, repaired again to the island, that he might examine its produce and get a fresh supjvly at provisions. He began by trading with the natives, for which purpose he took his station under a tree ; and to keep them from pressing upon him in a crowd, he drew a circfe round him, which he suffered none of thoin to enter. About 8 o'clock he saw two canoes coming towards the place, and was given to understand by tlie people about him that they belonged to Tarrao, the king of the island, who was coming to make him a visit As soon as the canoes came near the shore, the people made a lane from the beach to the trading-place, and his majesty landed with his sister, whose name was Nuna. As they ad- vanced towards the tree where Mr Banks stood, he went out to meet them, and, with great formality, in- troduced them into the circle from which the other natives had be«n excluded. As it is the custom of these people to sit during adl their conferences, Mr Banks unwrapped a kind of turban of Indian cloth, which) he wore upon his head instead of • 84 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Tot. I. hat, and spreading it apon the groand, tbuy all sajt dowa upon it together. The royai prest.iit was then broxight, which consisted of a hog and a dog, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of the like kind. Mr Banks then despatched a canoe to the observatory for his present, and the messengers soon returned with an adze, a shirt, and some beads, which were presented to his majesty, and received with great satisfaction. By this time Tubour^i Tamaide and Tomio joined the^t from the obser- vatory. Tomio said that she was re- lated to Tarrao, and brought him a present of a long jiail, at the same time complimenting Nuna with a shirt. The first internal contact of tlie planet with the sun being over, Mr Banks returned to the observatory, taking Tarrao, Nunfi, and some of their principal attendants, among whom were three very handsome young women, with him. He showed them the planet upon the sun, and endeavoured to make them under- stand that he and his companions had come from their own country on purpose to see it. Soon after Mr Banks returned ,v^ith them to the island, where he spent the rest of the day in examining its produce, which he found to be x;x\ich the same with that of Otaheite. The people whom he saw there aJso exactly resembled the inhabitao^ of .that island, and many of them were fiersons whom he had seen upon it; so that all those whom he bad dealt with knew of what his trading articles consisted, •nd the value they bore. The next morning, having struck the tents, they set out oa their retarn« and arrived at the fort before night The observation was made with equal success by the persons whom I had sent to the eastward, and at the 1011. There not being a cloud in the sky from the rising to the setting of the sun, the whole passage of the planet Yenns over the sun's disc was observed with great advantage by Mr Green, Dr Solojider, and myself. Mr Green's telescope and mine were of tibo same magnifying power, bat that 1^ s e of Dr Solander's was greater. We all saw an atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet, which very much disturbed the times of contact, especially of the internal ones ; and we differed from each other in our accounts of the times of the contacts much more than might have been expected. According to Mr Green, Ho. Min. Sm. The first external con- tact, or first appear- . ance of Yenus on the S* Sun, was . . 9 2ft 42 The first internal con- tact, or total emer- sion, was . .9/44 The second internal con- tact, or beginning of the emersion, . . 14 8 The second external con- tact, or total emer- sion, . . . 3 32 10 The latitude of the observatory was fonnd to be 17° 29' 15", and the longitude 149° 32' 30" W. of Green- wich. But if we had reason to congratu- late ourselves upon the success of our observation, we had scarce less cause to re^t the diligence with which that time had been improved by some of our people to anotlier purpose. While tne attention of the officers was engrossed bv the transit of Yenus, some of the ship's company broke into one of the store-rooms and stole a quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than one hundredweight. This was a matter of public and seri- ons concern; for these nails, if cir^ oulated by the people among the Indians, would do us irreparable in- jury, by reducing the value of iron, our staple commodity. One of the thieves was detected, but only seven nails were fonnd in his custody. He was punished with two dozen lashes^ but wonld impeach none of his ao« complices. On the 5th we kept his Majesty's birthday; for, though it is the 4th, we were unwilling to celebrate it during the absence of the two parties who itad been sent ont to observa the 17C9.] TREATMENT OF THE DEAD. 10 transit. Webaddeveralof the Indian chiefs at our entertainment, who drank h'm Majesty's health by the name of "Kihiargo," which was tlie nearest imitation they could produce of King George. About this time died an old woman of some rank, who was related to Tomio, which gave us an opportunity to see how they disposed of the body, and coniirnied us in our opinion that tliese people, contrary to the present custom of all other nations now known, never bury their dead. In the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the nwning of a canoe was raised upon two posts, and under this the body was deposited upon such a frame as has before been described. It was covered with fine cloth, and near it was placed bread- fruit, fish, and other provisions. We supposed that the u>od was placed there for the spirit of the deceased, and consequently that these Indians had some confused notion of a separate state ; but upon our applying for fur- ther information to TubouraiTamaide, he told us that the food was placed there as an offering to their gods. They do not, however, suppose that the gods eat, any more than the Jews supposed that Jehovah could dwell in a liouse. The offering is made here upon the same principle as the temple was built at Jerusalem — as an expres- sion of reverence and gratitude, and a solicitation of the more immediate presence of the Deity. In the front of the area was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased stood to pay the tribute of their sorrow ; and under the awning were innumerable small pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood of the mourners had been shed ; for in their paroxysms of grief it is a universal custom to wound themselves with the shark's tooth. Within a few yards two occasional houses were set up, in one of which some relations of the deceased con- stantly resided, and in the other the chief mourner — who is always a man, and who keeps there a very singular dress, in which a ceremony is per- formed that will be described in its turn. Near the place whore the dead are thus sot up to rot, the bones are afterwards buned. Having observed that bread-fruit had for some days been brought in less quantities than usual, we inquired the reason, and were told, that there being a great show of fruit upon the trees, they had been thinned all at once, in order to make a kind of sour paste, which the natives call "mahie," and which, in consequence of having undergone a fermentation, will keep a considerable time, and supply them with food when no ripe fruit is to ba had. On the 10th, the cereinoiiy was to be performed in honour of the old woman whose sepulchral tabernacle has been described, by the chief mourner ; and Mr Banks had so great a curiosity to see all the mysteries of the solemnity, that he determined to take a part in it, being told that he could be present xi\wn no other con- dition. In the evening, therefore, ho repaired to the place where the body lay, and was received by the daugh- ter of the deceased, and several other persons, among whom was a buy about fourteen years old, who were to assist in the ceremony. Tubourai Tamaide was to be the principal mourner ; and his dress was extremely fantastical, though not unbecoming. Mr Banks was stripped of bis Euro- pean clothes, and, a avaai} piece of cloth being tied round his middle, hi« body was smeared with charcoal and water, as low as the shoulders, till it was as black as that of a Negrq. The same operation was performed upon several others, among whom were some women, who were reduced to a state as near to nakedness as him- self; the boy was blacked all over, and then the procession set forward. Tubourai Tamaide uttered something, which was supposed to be a prayer, near the body, and did the same when he came up to his own house. When this was done, the procession was con- tinned towards the fort, permission having been obtained to approach it upon this occasion. It is tlie custom of the Indians to fly from these pro- 86 COOK'S VOYAGES. cessions withtlio utmost precipitation, 80 that as soon as those who were about the fort saw it at a distance, they hid themselves in the woods. It proceeded from the fort along the shore, and put to flight another body of Indians, consisting of more than 100, every one hiding himself under the first shelter that he could find. It then crossed the river, and entered the woods, passing several houses, all which were deserted, and not a single Indian could be seen during the rest of the procession, which continued more than half-an- hour. The oflice that Mr Banks per- formed was called that of the Nineveh, of which there were two besides him- self ; and the natives having all dis- appeared, they came to the chief mourner, and said, "Imitata" — "There are no people," after which the company was dismissed to wash themselves in tne river, and put on their customary apparel. On the 12th, complaint boingmade to me by some of the natives that two of the seamen had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some strings of plaited hair, I examined the matter, and finding the charge well supported, I punished each of the criminals with two dozen lashes. Their bows and arrows have not been mentioned before, nor were they often brought down to the fort. This day, however, Tuhourai Tamaide brought down his, inconsequenceof ^challenge which he had received from Mr Gore. The chief supposed it was to try who could send the arrow farthest; Mr Gore, who beat could hit a mark ; and as Mr Gore did not value himself upon shooting to a great distance, nor the chief upon hitting a mark, there was no trial of skill between them. Tu- bourai Tamaide, however, to show us what he could do, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, none of which are feathered, 274 yards, which is something more than a seventh, and something less than a sixth part of a mile. Their manner of shooting is somewhat singular ; they kneel down, ftnd, the moment the arrow is dis- char>{ed, drop the bow. [VOY.I. morning walk Mr Banks, in his this day, met a number of the natives, whom, upon inquiry, he found to bo travelling musicians ; and having learned where they were to be at night, we all repaired to the place. The band consisted of two flutes and three drums, and we found a great number of people assembled upon tho occasion. The drummers accom- panied the music with their voices, and, to our great surprise, we dis- covered that we were generally the subject of the song. We did not ex- pect to have found among the un- civilised inhabitants of this seques- tered spot, a character which has been the subject of such praise and veneration where genius and know- ledge have been most conspicuous ; yet these were the bards or minstrels of Otaheite. Their song was unpre- meditated, and accompanied with music ; they were continually going about from place to place, and they were rewarded by the master of the house, and the audience, with such things as one wanted and tlie other could spare. On the 14th, we were brought irto ■'^fficulties and inconvenience by nt anotn^. middle of tno tives contrived rake that was at the fort In the ^ ^t, one of the na- to stval an iron coal- made use of for the oven. It happened to be set up against the inside of the wall, so that the top of the handle was visible from without ; and 've wjre informed that the thfcf, it ho luvd been seen lurking there in the n^enin^, came secretly about Xh::^]t j'clock in the morning, and, watching his opportunity when the sentinel's back was turned, very dexterously laid hold of it with a long crooked stick, and drew it over the wall. I thought it of some conse- quence, if {>0S8ible, to put an end to tnese practices at once, by doing somethmg that should make it the common interest of the natives them- selves to prevent them. I had given strict orders that they should not l>e fired upon, even when detected in these attempts, for which I had many rea^'>ns. The common sentinels wers 170fl.] by no meaoB fit to b« entrusted with ft power of life and death, to be ex- erted whenever they should think lit, and I had already experienced that they were ready to take away the lives that were in their power upon the slightest occasion ; neither, in- deed, did I think that the thefts which these people committed against us, were, in them, crimes worthy of death. That thieves are hanged in England, I thou^lit no reason why they should be shot in Otaheite, because, with resi>ect to the natives, it would have been an execution by a law ex post facto. They had no such law among themselves, and it did not ap- pear to me that we had any right to make such a law for them. That they should abstain from theft, or be )jun- ished with death, was not one ot the conditions under which they claimed advantages of civil society, as it is among us ; and I was not willing to expose them to fire-arms loaded with shot, neither could I perfectly approve of firing only with powder. At first, indeed, the noise and the smoke would alarm them, but when they found that no mischief followed, they would be led to despise the weapons themselves, and proceed to insults which would make it necessary to put them to the test, and from which tney would be deterred by the very sight of a gun, if it was never used but with efiect. At this time, an accident furnished me with what I thought a happy ex- pedient It happened that above twenty of their sailing canoes were just come in with a ^upply of fish. Upon these I immediately seized, and, bringing them into the river behind the K>rt, gave public notice that ex- cept the rake, and all the rest of the things which from time to time had been stolen, were returned, the canoes should be burned. This menace I ventured to publish, though I had no design to put it into execution, mak- ing no doubt but that it was well known in whose possession the stolen goods were, and that, as restitution wap thus made a common cause, they would all of them in a short time m SEIZURE OP I'lSHINO CANOES. W brought back. A list of the things was made out, consisting principally of the rake, the musket which had been taken from the marine when the Indian w.s shot, tlie pistols which Mr Banka lost with his clothes at Ata- hourou, a sword belonging to one of the petty officers, and th« water cask. About noon the rake was restored, and great solicitation was made for the release of the canoes ; but I still insisted upon my original condition. The next day came, and nothing further was restored, at which I was much surprised, for the people were in the utmost distress fur the fish, which in a short time would be spoilt ; I was, therefore, reduced to a dis- agreeable situation, either of releasing the canoes, contrary to what I had oolemnly and publicly declared, or detaining them, to the great injury of those who /were innocent, without answering any good purpose to our- selves. As a temporary expedient I permitted thcLi to tak% the fish, but still detai'- ■"•' the canoes. This very license, hv 'er, was productive of new confusion and injury ; for, it not being easy at once to distinguish to what particular person the several lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered, under favour of this cir- cumstance, by those who had no right to any part of their cargo. Most press- ing instances were still made that the canoes might be restored ; and I, hav- ing now the greatest reason to believe either that the things for which I de- tained them were not in the island, or that those who sufi'ered by their detention had not sufficient influ- ence over the thieves to prevail upon them to relinquish their booty, determined at length to give them up, not a little mortified at the bad suc- cess of my project. Another accident also about this time was, notwithstanding all our caution, very near embroiling us with the Indians. I sent the boat on shore, with an ofiicer, to get ballast for the ship; and, not immediately finding stones convenient for the purpose, he began to pull down some part of an enclosure where they deposited the S8 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VOT. 1. ^" bones of their dead. This the Indians violently opposed, and a messenger came down to the tents to acquaint the officers that they would not suffer it. Mr Banks immediately repair(;d to the place, and an amicable end was tioon put to the dispute, by sending the boat's crew to the river, where stones enough were to be gathered without a possibility of giving offence. It is very rematkable, that these In- dians appeared to be much more jeal- ous of what was done to the dead than the living. This was the only measure in which they ventured to oppose us, and the only insult tliat was offered to any individual among us was upon a similar occasion. Mr Moukhouse happening one day to p.iU a flower from a tree wiiich grew in one of their sepulchral enclosures, an In- dian, whose jealousy had probably been upon the watch, came suddenly behind him, and struck him. Mr Monkhouse laid hold of him, but he was. instantly rescued by two more, who took hold of Mr Monkliouse's hair and forced him to quit his hold of their companion, and then ran away without offering him any further violence. In the evening of the 19th, while the canoes were still detained, we re- ceived a visit from Oberea, which sur- prised us not a little, as she brought with her none of the things that had been stolen, and knew that she was suspected of having some of thein in her custody. She said, indeed, that her favourite Obad^e, whom she had beaten and dismissed, had taken them away ; but she seemed conscious that she had no right to be believed. She discovered tlie strongest signs of fear, yet she surmounted it with astonish- ing resolution ; and was very pressing to sleep with her attendants in Mr Banks's tent. In tliis, however, she was not gratified ; the aifair of the jacket was too recent, and the tent was, besides, filled with other people. Nobody else seemed willing to enter- tain her; and she therefore, with great appearance of mortification and disappointment, spent the night in her oanoe. The next morning early. she returned to the fort, with her canoe and everything that it con- tained, putting herself wholly into our power, with something like great- ness of mind, which excited our won- der and admiration. As the moat effectual means to bring about a recon- ciliation, she presented us with a hog, and several other things, among whicn waa a dog. We had learned that these animals were esteemed by the Indians as more delicate food than their pork ; and upon this occasion we determined to try the experiment. The dog, which was very fat, we con- signed over to Tupia, wiio undertook to perform the double office of butcher and cook. He killed liiin by holding his hands close over his mouth and nose, an operation which continued above a quarter of an hour. While this was doing, a hole was made in the ground about a foot deep, in which a fire was kindled, and some small stones placed in layers alternately with the wood to heat ; the dog was then sillied by holding him over the fire, on I, by scraping him with a shell, the hair taken off as clean as if he had been scalded in hot water. He was then cut up with the same instrument, and his entrails, being taken out, were sent to the sea, where, being carefully washed, th^y were put into cocoa-nut shells, with what blood had come from the body. When the hole was sutUciently heated, the fire was taken out, and some of the stones, which were not so hot as to discolour anything that they touched, bein placed at the bottom, were covere with green leaves. The dog, with the entrails, was then placed upon the leaves, and other leaves being laid upon them, the whole was covered with the rest of the hot stones, and the mouth of the hole close stopped, with mould. In somewhat less than four hours it was again opened, and the dog taken out excellently baked ; and we all agreed that ho had made a very good dish. The dogs which are here bred to be eaten, taste no animal food, but are kept wholly upon bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, and other vegetables of the like kind. All 1 ■a 1769.] OAMO'S VISIT the flesh and fish eaten by the inha- bitauts is dressed in the same way. On the 21st, we were visited at the fort by a chief, called Oamo, whom we had never seen before, and who was treated by the natives with un- common respect. He brought with him a boy about seven years old, and a young woman about sixteen ; the boy was carried npon a man's back, which we considered as a piece of Btate, for he was as well able to walk as any present. As soon as they were in sight, Oberea and several other natives who were in the fort went out to meet them, having first uncovered their heads and bodies as low as the waist. As they came on, the same ceremony was performed by all the natives who were without the fort. Uncovering the body, therefore, is in this country probably a mark of re- spect ; and as all parts are here ex- posed witli equal indiff'erence, the ceremony of uncovering it from the waist downwards, which was performed by Oorattooa, might be nothing more than a ditferent mode of compliment adapted to persons of a different rank. The chief came into the tent, but no entreaty could prevail upon the young woman to follow him, though she seemed to refuse contrary to her in- clination. The natives without were indeed all very solicitous to prevent her ; sometimes, when her resolution seemed to fail, almost using force. The boy also they restrained in the same manner ; but Dr Solander, hap- 1)ening to meet him at the gate, took lim by the hand, and led him in before the people were aware of it. As soon, however, as those that were within saw him, they took care to have him sent out. These circumstances having strong- ly excited our curiosity, we inquired who they were, and were informed that Oamo was ' tusband of Oberea, though they iiua been a long time separated lay mutual consent ; and that the young woman and tlie boy were their children. "We letirned also, that the boy, whose name waa Terri- diri, was heir-apparent to the sove- reignty of the xsliuid, and that his TO THE FORT. 39 sister was intended for his wile, the marriage being deferred only till he should arrive at a proper age. The sovereign at this time was a son of Whappai, whose name was Outou, and who, as before has been observed, was a minor. Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were brothers ; Whappai was the eldest, and Oamo the second ; 80 that, Whappai having no child but Outon, Terridiri, the son of his next brother Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. It will, perhaps, seem strange that a boy should be sovereign during the life of his father ; but, according to the custom of the coun- try, a child succeeds to a father's title and authority as soon as it is bom. A regent is then elected, and the father of the new sovereign is generally con- tinued in his authority, under that title, till his child is of age ; but, at this time, the choice had fallen upon Tootahah, the uncle, in consequence of his having d " ;tinguished himself in a war. Oamo asked many ques- tions concerning England and its in- habitants, by which he appeared to have great shrewdness and under- standing. On Monday the 26th, about 3 o'clock in the mornmg, I set out in the pin- nace, accompanied by Mr Banks, to make the circuit of the island, with a view to sketch out the coast and harbours. We took our loute to the eastward, ard about eignt in the fore- noon 'VtA went on shore, in a district called Oahounue, which is governed by Xtiio, a young chief, whom we had often seen at the tents, and who fav- oured us with his company to break- fast. Here also we found two other Uiuives of our old acquaintance, Titu- boalo and Koona, who carried us to their houses, near which we saw the body of the old woman at whoso funeral rites Mr Banks had assisted, which had boon rt?moved hither from the spot where it was first deposited — this place having.' descended from her by inheritance to Hoona, and it being necessary on tiiat account that it should lie here. V/e tlien proceeded on foot, the boat attendin(' within call, to the harborr in which Air bougaiu- 40 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VOT.I. ville lay, called OliiJea, where the natives showed us the ground upon which his people pitched their tent, and the brook at which they watered, though no trace of them remained, except the holes where the poles of the tent had been fixed, and a small piece of potsherd which Mr Banks found in lookjng narrowly about the spot. "We met, howevei*, with Orette, a chief who was their principal friend, and whose brother Outorrou went away with them. This harbour lies on the west side of a great bay, under shelterofasraallislandcallfidBoourou, near which is anotlier called Taawir- rii. The breach in the reefs is here very large, but the shelter for the ships is not the best. Soon after we had examined this place we took boat, and asked Titu- boalo to go with us to the other side of tke bay ; but he refused, and ad- vised us not to go, for he said the country there was inhabited by people who were not subject to Tootahah, and who would kill both him and us. Upon receiving this intelligence, we did not, as may be imagined, relin- quish our enterprise ; but we imme- diately loaded our pieces with ball. This was so well understood by Titu- boalo as a precaution, which rendered us formidable, that he now consented to be of pur party. Having rowed till it was dark, we reached a low neck of land, or isthmus, at the bottom of the bay, that divides the island into two peninsulas, each of which is a dis- trict or government wholly indepen- dent of the other. Prom Fort iJoyal, where the ship was at anchor, the coast trends E. by S. and ESE. ten miles, then S. by E. and S. eleven miles t/o the isthmus. In the first direction the shore is in general open to the sea ; Imt in the lost it is covered by reefs of rocks, which form several good harbours, with safe anchorage, in six- teen, eia;hteen, twenty, and twenty- four fathoms of water, with other con- veniences. As we had not yet got into our enemy's country, wo deter- mitied to sleep on shore. We landed, and, though we found but few houses, we saw several doubio canoes, whose owners were well known to us, and who provided us with supper and lodging, of which Mr Banks was in- debted for his share to Oorattooa, the lady who had paid him her compli- mentd in so singular a manner at the fort. in the morning we looked about the country, and found it to be a marshy fiat, about two miles over, across which the natives haul their canoes to the corresponding bay on the other side. We then prepared to continue our route for what Tituboalo called the other kingdom. He said that the name of it was Tiarrabou, or Otaheito Ete ; and that of the chief who go- verned it, AVaheatua. Upon this oc- casion, also, we learned that the name of tlie peninsula where we had taken our station was Opoureonu, or Ota- heite Nue. Our new associate seemed to be now in better spirits than he had been the day before. The people in Tiarrabou would not kill us, he said : but he assured us that we should be able to procure no victuals among them ; and indeed we had seen no bread-fruit since we set out. After rowing a few miles, we landed in a district which was the dominion of a chief called Maraitata, ' ' the bury- ing-pkce of men," whose father's name was Pahairedo, "the stealer of boats." Though these names seemed to favour the account that had been given by Tituboalo, we soon found that it was not true. Both the fatlier and the son received us with the greatest civility, gave us provisions, and, after some delay, sold us a veiy large hog for a hatchet. A crowd soon gathered round us, but we saw only two people that we knew ; neither did we observe a single bead or or- nament among them that had come from our ship, though we saw several things which had been brought from Europe. In one of the h<'Mses lay two 1 2-pound shot, one of which wan marked with the broad arrow of Eng- land, though the people saiil they had them from the ships that lay in Bou- gainville's harbour. We proceeded ^„ f„„t till we cam. to the district ^y^jij y.^ immoi!;«le!if 1769.] CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE ISLAND. 41 under the govemment of the principal chief, or king, of the peninsula, Wa- heatua. Waheatua had a son, but whether, according to the custom of Opoureonu, he administered the go- vernment as regent or in his own right, is uncertain. This district consists of a large and fertile plain watered by a river so wide that we were obliged to ferry over it in a canoe ; our Indian train, however, chose to swim, and took to the water with the same facility as a pack of hounds. In this place we saw no house tlmt appeared ta be inhabited, but the rums of many that had been very We proceeded along the shore, fv-rms a bay called Oaitipeha, i':;st found the chief sitting . ^)retty canoe awnings, under we supposed, he and his at- lai'^-^e. wL oh aci> tendauts slept. He was a thin old man, with a very white head and beard, and had with liim a comely wom-^n, about five-and-twenty years old, whose name was Toudidde. We had often heard the name of this woman, and, from report and obser- vation, we had reason to think that she was the Oberea of this peninsula. From this place — between which and the isthmus there are other harbours, formed by the reefs that lie along th'd shore, where slumping may lie in per- fect security, ru'. ivom whence the land trends SS^: r-d S. to the SE. part of the if <;:\d-— wh were accom- panied by T'':*.' -c, <) "^ : r.y of Waheatua, of whom \ V JvJX". 'jui chased a hog. The country 'v< "; s^od thi'ough ap- peared to be mo? o ultiv ^ted than any we had seen in other > < >sof the island; the brooks were e* erywhere banked into narrow channels with stone, and the shore had Aao a facing of stone, where it wa--, washed by the sea. The houses vifie neither large nor numer- ous, but the canoes that were hauled up along the shor ' 1 "" f^ canoes and a number of peopL them, whom we were agreeably t prised to find were of our intimate ac quaintance. Here, with much diffi- culty, we procured some cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with us Tuahow, one of the Indians who had waited for us at Waheatua's, and had returned the night before, long after it was dark. When we came abreast of the south- east end of the island we went ashore, by the advice of our Indian guide, who told us that the country was rich and food. The chief, whose name was lathiabo, soon came down to us, but seemed to be a total stranger both to us and to our trade. His subjects, however, brought us plenty of cocoa- nuts and about twenty bread-fruit. The bread-fruit we bought at a very dear rate, but his excellency sold us a })ig for a glass bottle, which he pre- ferred to everything else that we could give him. We found in his posses- sion a goose and a turkey-cock, which, we were informed, had been left upon the island by the Dolphin ; they were both enormously fat, and so tame that they followed the Indians, who were fond of them to excess, wherever they went. In a long house in this neighbour- hood we saw what was altogetlicr new to us. At one end of it, fastened to a semicircular boards hung fifteen human jaw-bones; they appeared to be fresh, and there was not one of them that wanted a single tooth. A sight so extraordinary strongly excited our curiosity, and we made mary in- [VoY. I. quiries about it ; but at this time could get no information, for the people either could not or would not under- stand us. When we left this place, the chief, Mathiabo, desired leave to accompany us, which was readily granted. He continued with us the remainder of the day, and proved very useful by piloting us over the shoids. In the evening we opened the bay on the north-west side of the island, which answered to that on the south-east, so as at the isthmus, or carrying-place, almost to intersect the island, as I have observed before ; and when we iiad coasted about two-thirds of it we determined to go on shore for the niglit. We saw a large house at some distance, which, Mathiabo informed us, belonged to one of his friends ; and soon after several canoes came off to meet us, having on board some very handsome women, who, by their behaviour, seemed to have been sent to entice us on shore. As we had be- fore resolved to take up our residence here for the night, little invitation was necessary. Wo found that the house belonged to the chief of the district, whose name was Wiverou ; he received us in a very friendly man- ner, and ordered his people to assist us in dressing our provision, of which we had now got a tolerable stock. When our supper was ready, we were conducted into that part ot the house where Wiverou was sitting in order to eat it. Mathiabo supped with us, and Wiverou calling for his supper at the same time, we ate our meal very soci- ably, and with groat good humour. When it was over we began to inquire where we were to sleep, and a part of the house waa shown us, of which we were told we might talce posscssiou for that purpose. We then sent for our cloaks, and Mr Banks began to undress, as his custom was ; and, with a precaution which he had been taught by the loss of the jackets at Atahourou, sent his clothes aboard the boat, pro- posing to cover himself with a piece of Indian cloth. When Mathiabo perceived what was doing, he also pre- tended to want a cloak ; and, as he iiad 1769.] OTHER CASES OF THEFT. behaved very well, and done us some service, a cloak was ordered for him. We lay down, and observed that Ma- thiabo was not with us ; but we sup- posed that he was gone to bathe, as the Indians always do before they sleep. We had not waited long, iiowever, when an Indian, who was a stranger to us, came and told Mr Banks that the cloak and Mathiabo had disappeared together. This man had so far gained our confidence that we did not at first believe the report ; but it being S'yon after confirmed by Tuahow, our own Indian, we knew no time was to be lost. As it was impossible for us to pur- sue the thief with any hope of success, without the assistance of the people about us, Mr Banks started up, and telling our case, required them to recover the cloak ; and to enforce this requisition, showed one of his pocket- Eistols, which he always kept about im. Upon the sight of the pistol, the whole company took the alarm, and, instead of assisting to catch the thief, or recover what had been stolen, began with great precipitation to leave the place ; one of them, how- ever, was seized, upon which he im- mediately offered to direct the chase. I set out therefore with Mr Banks, and though we r.*::. all the way, the alarm had got before us, for in about ten minutes we met a man bringing back the cloak, which the thief had relinquished in great terror ; and as we did not then think fit to continue the pursuit, ho made his escape. When we returned, we found the house, in which there had been be- tween 200 and 800 people, entirely deserted. It being, however, soon known that we had no resentment against anybody but Mathiabo, the chief, Wiverou, our host, with his wife and many others, returned and took up their lodgings with us for the nignt. In this place, however, we were destined to more confusion and trouble; for about 5 o'clock in the morning our sentry alarmed us with an account that the boat was missing. He had seen her, he said, about half- an -hour before^ at her 48 grappling, which was not above fifty yards from the shore ; but, upon hearing the sound of oars, he had looked out again, and could see nothing of her. At this account we started up greatly alarmed, and ran to the water-side. The morning was clear and star-light, so that we could see to a considerable distance, but there was no appearance of the boat. Our situation was now such as might justify the most terrifying apprehen- sions ; as it was a dead calm, and we could not therefore suppose her to have broken from her grappling, we had great reason to fear that the Indians had attacked her, and, find- ing the people asleep, had succeeded in their enterprise. We were but four, with only one musket and two pocket-pistols, without a spare ball or charge of powder for either. In this state of anxiety and distress we remained a considerable time, ex- pecting the Indians every moment to improve their advantage — when to our unspeakable satisfaction, we saw the boat return, which had been driven from her grappling by the tide ; a circumstance to which, in our confusion and surprise, we did not advert. As soon as the boat re- turned, we got our breakfast, and were impatient to leave the place, lest some other vexatious accident should befall us. It is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula, or division, of the island, and at the distance of about five miles south-east from the isthmus, having a large and commod- ious harbour, inferior to none in the island, about which the land is very rich in produce. Notwithstanding we had little communication with this division, the inhabitants every- where received us in a friendly man- ner ; we found the whole of it fertile and populous, and, to all appearance, in a more flourishing state thaa Opoureonu, though it is not above one-fourth part as large. The next district in which wo landed, was the last in Tiarrabou, and governed by a chief, whose name we understood to be Omo6. Omoe 44 COOK'S \ was building a house, and being therefore very desirous of procuring a hatchet, he would have been glad to have purchased one with anjrthing that he had iu his possession ; it happened, however, rather unfortun- ately for him and us, that we had not one hatchet left in the boat We offered to trade with nails, but he would not part with anything in ex- change for them. We therefore re- embarked, and put off our boat ; but the chief being unwilling to relin- quish all hope of obtaining some- tliing from us that would be of use to him, embarked in a canoe, with his wife Whanno-ouda, and followed us. After some time, we took them into the boat, and when we had rowed about a league, they desired we would put ashore. We immediately com- plied with his request, and found some of his people, who had brought down a very large hog. We were as unwilling to lose thj hog, as the chief was to part with us, and it was in- deed worth the best axe we had in the ship ; we therefore hit upon an expedient and told him that if he would bring his hog to the fort at Matavai — the Indian name for Fcii Royal Bay — he should have a large axe and a nail into the bargain for his trouble. To this proposal, after having consulted with his wife, he agreed, and gave us a large piece of his country-cloth as a pledge that he would perform his agreement, which, however, he never did. At this place we saw a venr singu- lar curiosity. It was the figure of a man, constructed of basket-work, rudely made, but not ill designed ; it was something more than seven feet high, and rather too bulky in proportion to its height. The wicker skeleton was completely covered with feathers, which were white where the skin was to appear, and black in the parts which it ia their custom to paint or stain, and upon the head where there was to be a representation of hair. Upon the head also were four protuberances, three in front and one behind, which we should have called horns, but which the OYAQES. [VoY.I. Indians dignified with the name of "Tate Ete^'— little men. The image was called Manioe, and was said to be the only one of the kind in Ota- heite. They attempted to give us an explanation of its use and design, but we had' not then acquired enough of their language to understand them. We learned, however, afterwards, that it was a representation of Mauwe, one of their Eatuas, or gods of the second class. After having settled our affairs with Omoe, we proceeded on our return, and soon reached Opoureonu, the north-west peninsula. After rowing a few miles, we went on shore again, but the only thing we saw worth notice, was a repository for the dead, uncommonly decorated. The pave- ment was extremely neat, and upon it was raised a pyramid, about five feet high, which was entirely covered with the fruits of two plants peculiar to the country. Near the pyramid was a small image of stone, of very rude workmanship, and the first in- stance of carving in stone that we had seen among these people. They appeared to set a high Vjilue upon it, for it was covered from tVe weather by a shed that had been erect ed on purpose. We proceeded in the boat, and passed through the only harbour, on the south side of Opoureonu, that is fit for shipping. It is situated about five miles to the westward of tlio isthmus, between two small islands that lie near the shore, about a mile distant from each other ; and affords good anchorage in eleven and twelve fathoms water. We were now not far from the district called Paparra, which belonged to our friends Oamo and Oberea, where we proposed to sleep. We went on shore about an hour before night, and found that they were both absent, having left their habitations to pay us a visit at Matavai. Tliis, liowevor did not alter our purpose; we took up our quarters at the house of Oberea, which, though small, was very neat, and at this time had no inhabitant but her father, who re- ceived us with looks that bid us weU come. Having taken possession, ws 1769.] were willing to improve the little day-light that was left us, and there- fore walked out to a point upon which we had seen, at a distance, trees that are here called "etoa," which gener- ally distinguish the places where thege ¥eople bury the bones of their dead, heir name for such burying-grcunds, which are also places of worship, is " morai." We were soon struck with the sight of an enormous pile, which, we were told, was the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, and the principal piece of Indian archit'" lure in the island. It was a pile oi stone-work, raised pyramidically, upon an oblong base, or square, two nundred and sixty- seven feet long, ai» " eighty-seven wide. It was built ^e the small jiyramidal mounts upon which we sometimes fix the pillar of a sun-dial, where each side is a flight of steps ; the steps, however, at the sides, were broader than those at the ends, so that it terminated not in a sc^uare of the same figure with the base, but iq a ridge, like the roof of a house. There were eleven of these steps, each of which was four feet high, so that the height of the pile was forty-four feet ; each step was formed of one course of white coral-stone, which was neatly squared and polished ; the rest of the mass, for there was no hol- low within, consisted of round peb- bles, which, from the regularity of their figure, seemed to have been wrought. Some of the coral-stones were very large ; we measured one of them, and found it three feet and a half by two feet and a half. The foundation was of rock stones, which were also squared ; and one of them measured four feet seven inches by two feet four. Such a structure, raised without the assistance of iron- tools to shape the stones, or mortar to join them, struck us with astonish- ment. It seemed to be as compact and firm as it could have been made by any workman in Europe, except that the steps, which range along its greatest length, are not perfectly straight, but sink in a kind of hollow in the middle, so that the whole sur- fue. from end to end, is not a right DESCRIPTION OF A "MORAI." 4S line, but a curve. The quarry stones, as we saw no quarry in the neighbour- hood, must have been brought from a considerable distance ; and there ia no method of conveyance here but by hand. TliQ coral must also have been fished from under the water, where, though it may be found in plenty, it lies at a considerable depth, never less than three feet. Both the rock-stone and the coral could be squared only by tools made of the same substance, which must have been a work of incredible labour ; but the polishing was more easily effected by means of the sharp coral sand, which is found everywhere upon the sea-shore in great abundance. In the middle of the top stood the image of a bird, carved in wood ; and near it lay the broken one of a fish, carved in stone. The whole of this pyramid made part of one side of a spacious area or square, nearly of equal sides, being 360 feet by 354, which was Availed in with stone, and paved with flat stones in its whole extent ; though there were growing in it, notwith« standing the pavement, several of the trees which they call "etoa," and plantains. About a hundred yards to the west of this building, wag another paved area or court, in which were several small stages raised on wooden pillars, about seven feet high, which are called by the Indians "evvattas,"^ and seem to be a kind of altars, as upon these are placed provisions of all kinds as offerings to their gods. We have since seen whole nogs placed upon them, and we found hero the skulk of above fifty, besides the skulls of a great number of dogs. The principal object of ambition among these people is to have a mag- nificent Moral, and this was a, strik- ing memorial of the rank and power of Qberea. It has been remarked that wis did not find her invested with the same authority she exercised 1 Subsequently described in the account of the stay at Tougataboo (Voyage III.) finder the desigt^atiui of "whattas.'' 46 COOK'S VOYAGES. rvoT. when the Dolphin was at this place, and we now learned the reason of it. Our way from her house to the Morai lay along the seaside, and we observed everywhere under our feet a great number of human bones, chiefly ribs and vertebrae. Upon inquiring into the cause of so singular an appearance, we were told that in the then last month of Owarahew, which answered to our December, 1768, about four or five months before our arrival, the people of Tiarrabou, the SK penin- sula which we had just visited, made a descent at this place, and killed a great number of people, whose bones were those that we saw upon the shore ; that upon this occasion Oberea and Oamo, who then administered the government for his son, had fled to the mountains ; and that the con- querors burned all the houses, which were very large, and carried away the hogs and what other animals they found. We learned also that the turkey and goose which we had seen when we were with Mathiabo, the stealer of cloaks, were amonsr the spoils. This accounted for their be- ing found among people with whom the Dolphin had ^ittle or no commu- nication ; and u^ n mentioning the jawbones which we had seen hanging from a board in a long house, we were told that they also had been carried away as trophies, the people here carrying away the jaw-bones of their enemies, as the Indians of North America do the scalps. After having thus gratified our curiosity, we returned to our quarters, where we passed the night in perfect secuiity and quiet. By the next evening we arrived at Atahouro.u, the residence of our friend Toptahah, where, last tio^e we passed Xjie nigh^t under his pro^tection, we had been obliged to leave the best part of our clothes behind liiB. This adventure, howerer, seemed now to be forgotten on both sides. Our friends received US with great pleasure, and gave us a good Slipper and a good lodging, where we suffered neither loss nor disturb- ance. The next day, Saturday, July the 1st, we ^ot back to oar fort at Mati- vai, having found the circuit of the island, including both peninsulas, to be about thirty leagues. Upon our complaining of the want of bread- fruit, we were told that the produce of the last season was nearly ex- hausted, and that what was seen sprouting u;pon the trees would not be fit to use in less than three months. This accounted for our having been able to procure so little of it in our route. While the bread-fruit is rip- ening upon the flats, the inhabitants are supplied in some measure from the trees which they have planted upon the hills to preserve a succes- sion ; but the quantity is not suffi- cient to prevent scarcity. They live therefore upon the sour paste which they call "mahie," upon wild plan- tains, and ahee-nnts, which at this time ail. n perfection. Howithap- Eened that the Dolphin, which was ere at this season, found such plenty of bread-fruit upon the trees I cannot tell, except the season in which they ripen vanes. At our return, our Indian friends crowded about us, and none of them came empty-handed. Though I had determined to restore to their owners the canoes which had been detained, it had not yst been done ; but I now released them as the^ were applied for. Upon this occasion I could not but remark with concern that these people were capable of practising petty frauds against each other, with a de- liberate dishonesty which gave me a much worse opinion of them, than I had ever entertained from the rob- beries they committed under the strong temptation, to which a sudden oppor- tunity of enriching themselves with the ihe^tunable metal and manufactures of iurope exposed them. Among others who applied to me for the release of a canoe was one Potattow, a man of some consequence, well known to us all. I consented, supposing the ves- sel to be his own, or that he applied on behalf of a friend. He went im- mediately to the beach, and took pos- session of one of the boats, which, with the assistance of his people, he 1769.] EXPLORATIONS MADE BY MR BA1TK8. 47 began to carry off; upon this, how- ever, it WM eagerly claimed by the right owners, who, supported by the other Indians, clamorously reproached him for invading their property, and prepared to take the canoe from him by force. Upon this he desired to be heard, and told them that the canoe did indeed once belong to those who claimed it ; but that. I, having seizv'd it as a forfeit, had sold it to him fcr a pig. This silenced the clamour ; the owners, knowing that from my power there was no appeal, acqui- esced ; and Potattow would have car- ried oif his prize if the dispute had not fortunately been overheard by some of our people, who reported it to me. I gave orders immediately that the Indians should bS undeceived ; upon which the right owners took possession of their canoe, and Potat ' tow was so conscious of his guilt that neither he nor his wife, who was privy to his knavery, could look us in tLn face for some time afterwards. On the 3d, Mr Banks set out early in the morning, with some Indian guides, to trace our river up the valley from which it issues, and ex- amine how far its banks were inhab- ited. For about six miles they met with houses, not far distant from each other, on each side of the river, and the valley was everywhere about 400 yards wide from the foot of the hill on one side to the foot of that on the other. But they were now shown a house which they were told was the last tliat they would see. When they came up to it, the master of it offered them refreshments of cocoa-nuts and other fruits, of which they accepted. After a short stay, they walked for- ward for a considerable time. In bad way it is not easy to compute dis- taijces, but they imagined that they had walked about six miles f^rtl^er, following the course of the river, when they frequently passed under vaults formed oy fragments of the rock, in which they were told people who were benighted frequently passed the night. Soon after they found th« river banked by steep rocks, from which a cascade falling with great violence, formed a pool so steep that the Indians said they could not pass it. They seemed, indeed, not much to be acquainted with the valley be- yond this place, tlieir business lying chiefly upon the declivity of the rocks on each side, and the plains which extended on their summits, where thejr found plenty of wild plantain, winch they called Vae. The way up these rocks from the banks of the river was in every respect dreadful ; the sides were nearly perpendicular, and in some places 100 feet high ; they were also rendered exceeding slippery by the water of innumerable springs which issued from the fissures on the surface. Yet up these preci- pices a way was to be traced by a succession of long pieces of the bark of the Hibiscus tiliaceits, which served as a rope for the climber to take hold of, and assisted him in scrambling from one ledge to another, though upon these ledges there was footing only for an Indian or a goat. One of these ropes waj nearly thirty feet in length, and their guides offered to assist them in mounting this pass, b\it recommended another, at a little distance lower down, as less difficult and dangerous. They took a view of this "better way," but found it so bad that they did not choose to at- tempt it, as there was nothing at the top to reward their toil and hazard but a gi'ove of the wild plantain or Vae tree, which they had often seen before. Duriag this excursion Mr Banks had an excellent opportunity to ex- amine the rocks, which were almost everywhere naked, for minerals; but he found not the least appearance of any. The stonea everywhere, like those of Madeira, showed manifest tokens of having been bumpd ; nor is there a single specimen of any stone among all those that were collected in the island upon which there are not manifest and indubitable marks of fire, except, perhaps, some small pieces of the hatchet-stone, and even of that other fragments were collected which were burned almost to a pum- ise. Traces of fire are also manifest 48 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VOT.I. In the TOTy clay upon the hills ; and it may therefore not unreasonably bo supposed that this and the neighbour- ing islands are either shattered re- mains of a continent, which some have supposed to be necessary in this I)art of the globe to preserve an equi- ibrium of its parts, which were left behind when the rest sank by the mining of a subterraneous fire, so as to give a passage to the sea over it ; or were torn from rocks which, from the creation of the world, had been the bed of the sea, and thrown up in heaps to a height which the waters never reach. One or other of these suppositions will perhaps be thought the more probable, as the water does not gradually grow shallow as the shore is approached, and the islands are almost everywhere surrounded by reefs which appear to be rude and broken, as some violent concussion would naturally leave the solid sub- stance of the earth. On the 4th, Mr Banks employed himself in planting a great quantity of the seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. For these he prepared ground on each side of the fort, with as many varieties of soii as he could choose ; and there is little doubt that they will succeed. He also gave liberally of these seeds to the Indians, and planted many of them in the woods. Some of the melon seeds having been planted soon after our arrival, the natives showed him several of the plants, which appeared to be in the most flourishing condition, and were continually asking him for more. We now begin to prepare for our departure, by oonding the sails and performing other nece&sary operations on board the ship — our water being already on board, and the provisions examined. In the meantime wo had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and daughter; the Indians expressing their respect by uncovering the upper parts of their body as they had dpn? before. The daughter, vrhose name we understand tp be I Toimata, ^as very desirous to see the | fort, but her father would by no means suffer her to come in. Tearee, the son of Waheatua, the sovereign of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula, was also with us at this time; and we received intelligence of the landing of another guest, whose company waa neither expected nor desired. This was no other than the ingenious gentleman who contrived to steal our quadrant. We were told that ha intended to try his fortune again in the night ; but the Indians all offered zealously to assist us against him, desiring that, for this purpose, they might be permitted to lie in the fort. This had so good an effect, that the thief relinquished his enterprise in despair. On the Tlh, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and palisadoes of our little fortifica- tion, for fire-wood on board the ship ; and one of the Indians hui dexterity enough to steal the staple and hooK upon which the gate turned. He was immediately pursued, and after a chase of six miles, he appeared tn have been passed, having concealed himself among some rushes in the brook. The rushes were searched, and though the thief had escaped, a scraper was found which had been stolen from the ship some time before ; and soon after our old friend Tuboural Tamaide brought na the staple. On the 8th and 9xn we continued to dis- mantle pur fort, and our friends still flocked about us ; bqxhq, I believe, sorry at the approach of our departure, and others desirous to make as much as they could of us while we stayed. We were in hopes that we should now leaye the island without giving or receiving any other offence, but it unfortunately happened otherwise. Two foreign seamen having been out with my permission, one of them was robbed of^his knife, (^nd e^deavouring to recoyer it, probably with circum- stances of gTjeat provocation, the In- dians attacKed bim ^nd dangerously wounded him with a stone; they wounded his companion ^so slightly on ths head, and then fled into the piountains. A9 I should have been 1769. J Sony vj take any further notice of the affair, I was not displeased that the offenders had escapea ; but I was immediately involved in a quarrel which I very much re^ttea, and which yet it was not possible to avoid. In the middle of the night between the 8th and 9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, both young men, went privately Trom the fort, and in the morning were not to be found. As public notice had been given that all bands were to go on board on the next day, and that the ship would sail on the morrow of that day or the day followir g, I be- gan to fear that the ab8ente& selves in a wood fur thrt jjurpose, and who having taken them at k. disad- vantage, forced their weapons out of their hands, and declared tliat they would detain them till their chief should be set at liberty. He said, however, that the Indians were not unanimous in tliis measure; that some were for setting them at liberty, and others for detaining them j that an eager dispute ensued, and from words they came to blows, but the party for detaining them at length prevailed ; that soon after Webb and Gibson were brought in by a party of the natives as prisoners, that they also nii'^ht be secured as hostages for the ^Jk; but that it was after some debate resolved to send Webb to in- form me of their resolution, to a&cnre me that hid companions were safe, and direct me where I might send my answer. Thus it appears that, what- ever were the disadvantagesof seizing the chiefs, I should never have re- covered my men by any other method. When the chiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at the fort were also set at liberty, and, after staying with Mr Banks about an hour, they all went away. Upon this occasion, OS they had done \.pcn ?.iiother of the same kind, they expressed their joy by an undeserved liberality, strongly urging us to accept of four hogs. These we absolutely refused as a pre- sent, and they as absolutely refusing to be paid for them, the hogs did not change masters. Upon examining the deserters, we found that the ac- ooimt which the Indians had given of them was true, — they had strongly attached themselves to two girls, and it was their intention to conceal them- selves till the ship had sailed, and take up their residence upon the island. This night ever}'thing was got off from the shore, and everybody slept on board. Among the natives who were almost conhj'intly with us, was Tupia, whose name hit: been often mentioned in this narrativo. lie had been, as I have before observed, the first minister of Oberea, when she was in the height of her power. He was also the chief tnhowa or priest o^ the island, conse- quentlv well acquainted with the reli- gion of the country, as wcUwith respect to its ceremonies as principles. He had also great experience and know- ledge in navigation, and was particu- larly acquainted with the number and situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed a de- sire to go with us, and on the 12th, in the moruinsr, having, with the other natives, left us the day before, he came on board with a boy about thirteen years of age, his servant, and urged us to let him proceed with us on our voyaM. To have such a per- son on board was certainly desirable for many reasons ; by learning his language, and teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better knowledge of the customs, policy, and religion of the people, than our short stay among them could give as : I therefore gladly agreed tq receive them on board. As we were prevented from sailing to-day, by having found it necessary to make new Btof.ks to our small and best bower anchors, the old ones having been totally destroyed by the worms, Tupia said he would go once more on shore, and make a signal for the boat to fet«h him off in the evening. He went accordingly, iind took with him a miiiiaturo picture of Mr Banks's to show his fnends, and several little things to give thism as parting pre- sents. After dinner, Mr Banks, being de» sirous to procure a drawing of the Moral belonging tu Toutahah at 1769.] PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE ISLAND. Eparre, I attended him thither, ac- companied by Dr Solander, in the pinnace. Ah soon as we landed, many of our fnonds came to meet us, though some absented themselves in resentment of what had happened the day beibre. We immediately pro- ceeded to Tootahah's house, where we were joined by Oberea, with several others who had not come out to meet us, and a perfect reconciliation was soon brought about ; in conset^uence of which they promised to visit us early the next day, to take a last farewell of us, as we told them we should certainly set sail in the after- noon. At this place, also, we found Tupia, who returned with us, and alept this night on board the ship for the tirst time. On the next morning, Thursday the 18th of July, the ship was very early crowded with our friends, and sur- roi "^rled by a multitude of canoes, V were filled with the natives of I irior class. Between eleven k... .^elve we weighed anchor, and w soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something rery striking and tender. The people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their lamentations, which we con- sidered rather as affectation than grief. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a firmness and resolution truly admirable. He wept, indeed, but the eflbrt that he made to conceal his tears concurred with them to do him hon- our. He sent his last present, a shirt, by Otheothea, to Potomia, Tootahah's favourite mistress, and then went with Mr Banks to the masthead, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight. Thus we took leave of Otaheite and its inhabitants, after a stay of just three months. For much the greater j'.irt of the time we lived together in the most cordial friendship, and a perpetual reciprociltion of good offices. The accidental differfe'.nces wliich now and then hapjiencd couW not be more siuceroly regretted ou their part, than 61 they were on ours. The pimcipal causes were such as necessarily re- sulted from our situation and cir- cumstances, in conjunction with the infirmities of human nature ; from our not being able perfectly to understand each otlier ; and from the disposition of the inhabitants to theft, wnich we could not all times bear with or pre- vent They had not, however, ex- cept in one instance, been attended witli any fatal consequence ; and to that accident were owing the measures I took to prevent others of the same kind. I hoped indeed to have availed myself of the impression which had been made upon them by the lives sacrificed in their contest with the Dolphin, so as that the intercourse between us sliould have been carried on wholly without bloodshed ; by this hope all my measures were dire< d during the whole of my continii uoo at the island ; and I sincerely wish that whoever shall next visit it may be still raore fortunate. Our traffic here was carried on with as much order as in the best regulated market in Europe. It was managed princi- pally by Mr Banks, who was inde- fatigable in procuring provision and refreshments while they were to ba had ; but during th« latter part of our time they beccme scaree, portly by the increased consumption at the fort and ship, and partly by the coming on of the season in which cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit faiL All kinds of fruit we purchased for beads and nails, but no nails less than forty-penny were current. Aft ? a very snort time we could never get a pig of more than ten or twelve pounds for less than a hatchet ; because, though these people set a high value upon spike-npjls, yet, these being an article with which many people in the ship were provided, the women found a much more easy way of pro- curing them than by bringing down provisions. The best articles for traffic here are axes, hatchets, spikes, large nails, looking-glasses, knives, and beads, for some of which, every* thing that the natives have may be procured. They are, indeed, fona MRS mmmm. 53 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. I. of fine linen cloth, both white and printed ; but an axe worth half-a- crown will fetch more than a piece of cloth worth twenty shillings. [Althongh the account in the Cabinet Cyclopsedia of Cook's stay at Otabeito has been in great measure anticipated, some particulars there go beyond what Dr Hawkesworth him- self relates, founding his narrative on the observations and memoranda of fcte distinguished navigator.] "The mild and jndicioiis conduct of Cook completely won the confid- ence of the Otaheitans, and enabled him to form a moie accmate opinion of their character than the voyagers who ha J previously visited their island. They were remarkably friendly and alfectionate, and indeed their attach- ments alone seemed exempted from the characteristic levity which pre- Vdnted them from fusing their atten- tion on the same object for any length of time. They are a handsome people, finely made, and with ojwn vivacious :cuntenan('.ds ; their ingenuity was ia nothing more conspicuous than in the fine cloth, or rather paper, which they made of the inner bark of a tree. The garments of this nniterial, which they wore, were becoming and even elegant, and were arianged by the women so as to produce an ed'ect little short of the classic draperies of anti- quity. Their houses were little more than sheds, erected in the neighbour- hood of the trees under which they reclined and took their meals during th« day. These habitations stood very thick in t!ie groves which cover the low margin of the island. High mountains rose behind, and a number of small streams stolo down the de- clivities to the sea-shore ; the whole presenting, frora a d^'stance, a most enchanti'iff picture. "Itwtfc^i conjectured by M. de Bou- gainville that tho inhabitants of Otaheite were compoaod of two differ- ent races, and that one of these was in a servile condition. Cook also notices the superiority of the chiefs in figuie and appeaiance, but docs Bti v^utuie to ascribe this dilferonce to any circumstances of origin or descent. He does not seem to have observed the power which the chiefs usually exercised over their retainers, and which the French navigator, with perhaps too little reason, seems to have cousiilered as absolutely despotic. But the king, it was evident, though treated with respect by all, possessed no power but what was derived from the voluntary attachment of the chiefs, whose obedience or support in every enterprise could be secured only by consulting them. Tho rule of suc- cession among these islanders is singu- lar in the extreme. The son, as soon as he is born, succeeds to the autho- rity of his father, who at once becomes only a regent instead of a king, if he be fitted for that office. Associations of a licentious character existed amon^ the chief persons in these islands, ana among otaer bad effects, tended to encourage the crime of infanticide ; a crime to which the law of inheritance just mentioned may have held out some indiicement, as tho ambition of the parent was at once blighted by the birth of a son. " At the time of Cook's visit, the sovereignty hud devolved on a boy only seven years old, the son of Oanio and Oberea, the latter of whom had figured so conspicuously in Captain Wallis's narrative as queen of the island. She lived separate from her husband, and though still treated as a noble, no longer enjoyed the same degree of power and consideration which had rendered her friendship so valuable to tho commander of the Dolphin. As a furtber proof of the progress made by these islanders to- wards civili-sation, it deserves to be remarked, that their women were not condemned to labour, as is usually the case amongst rude nations. They had, indeed, abundance of domestic occupation, in making and dyeinir their cloth, preparing the meals, ana similar offices ; but though tUoy were not permitted to eat with tho men, they were in general treated with rt^pect and attention. " When M. de Bougainville anived here, he found tho i^auders already iRRSSsmsMMnsanmi ■■■ t769.1 TUPIA. 63 acquainted with the use of iron, which j coins and mudals, and a pewter pkte they called 'aoiiri,' a name which he supposed them to have learned from the English who had preceded hini ; but Captain Wailis observed that they were not wholly ignorant of that metal in his time, though he does not men- tion by what name they called it ; for as soon as thoy were presented with iron nails, tliey began to sharpen them, while they took no such pains with pieces of brass and copper. Cook circiimnavigated and surveyed the coastfl of Otftheite, wliich he found to have a circmufereBco of about thirty leagues ; and after a stay of about three mouths he prepared to depart. In leaving the affectionate islanders, ho remarks, ' that, allowing for their theft, they need not fear a comparison with any people on earth.' A native named Tupia, one of Oberea's minis- ters, and well instmcted in all the learning of his countrymen, offered to accompany the English, and the proposal was readily accepted. The Otaheitans, it appeared, sometimes ventured 200 or 300 miles through the ocean in their opei: canoes ; and Tupia had a vague knowledge of above eighty islands, the position of many of which he attempted to describe. He was well icquainted with the heavens ; and, in every part of the subsequent voyage in the Endeavour, he was enabled to point out the direc- tion of his native island. " On leaving Otaheite, Cook visited the neighbouring islands of Ulietea, Borabora, Otahah, Huaheine, and Baiataia. Tupia related, that in the time of his grandfather a friendly ship had called at the last named inland, and he also stated that a ship hacctacle, but the sentiment of 1)leasure was soon swallowed up in the torror which seized on the mind from the contemplation of danger ; for a ship approaching these islands on the weather side would be dashed to pieces in a moment. Amidst the obstructions to which our navigators were exposed from the ice island con- tinually succeeding one another, they derived the advantage of having an abundant supply of fresh water ; large masses of ice were carried off, and itowed on deck, and the water pro- duced from its melting was found perfectly sweet and well tasted. "On the 17th of Januarv 1773, our navigators had reached the Lati- tude of 67° 15' S., and they saw th« ice extending from east to west-south* west, without the least appearance of an opening. It was vain, there* fore, to persist any longer in a south* erly course ; and as there was some danger of being surrounded by tlie ice, prudence dictated a retreat to the north. On the 8th of February, the weather being extremely thick and hazy, it was found that the Adventure had parted company ; the rendezvous appointed in case of this accident, was Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, and thither Cook directed his course. In the Latitude of 62* S., on the 17th of the same month, between midnight and 3 o'clock in the morning, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to thoie that are known in the northern hemisphere by the name of the Aurora Boreal is.' Captain Cook had never heard that the Aurora Australis had been seen before, but the same phenomenon was witnessed repeatedly in the sequel of this voyage. During his run to the eastward in this high latitude, he had ample reason to conclude that no land lay to the south, unless at a very great distance. At length, after having been 117 days at sea, during which time he had sailed 3660 league* without having come once within sight of land, he saw the shores of New Zealand on the 26th of March, and on the following day came to an anchor in Dusky nay. Notwith- standing the length and hardships of his voyage, there was no sickness in the ship; the attention which he paid to the health of the men, by enforc* ing cleanlineas, by keeping the vessel dry and well ventilated, and by the judicious -se of anti-scorbutic die^ being attended with complete succeai. Having surveyed Dusky Bay, h* pro- ceeded to Queen Charlottes Sound, where Captain Furneaux had arrived befo'e hiu-;. "The Adventure, after parting com- pany with the Kf-solutioQ, had ful- 1773.] VISIT TO OTAHEITE. 59 lowed a more northerly course, and traced the coasts of Van Dieman's Land along the southern and eastern > shores. Captain Furneaux reported, "that in his opinion there are no straits between this land and New Holland, but a very deep hay." Cook had intended to investigate this point, but, considering it to be now settl^ by the judgment of his col- league, he resolved to prosecute his researches to the east, between the Latitudes of 41° and 46°. But before he left Queen Charlotte's Sound, he succeeded in establishing a friendly and mutually advantageous intercourse with the natives. He endeavoured to give them substantial proofs of his kind intentions, by making an addi- tion to their stock of useful animals. He put on shore a ewe and ram, and also two goats, a male and female. A garden also was dug, and a variety of seeds of culinary vegetables, adapted to the climate, were sown in it. " Although it was the winter sea- son, Cook determined not to lose his time in utter inactivity. His sliips being sound, and his crews healthy, he thought that he might safely pro< ceed to examine the Southern Ocean within the Latitude of 46* ; and then, re'.reshing at some of the islands be- tween the tropic? ( rttum in the sum- mer season to cairy his researches to a higher latitude. His voyage from New Zealand towards the east was net productive of any interesting dis- coveries, nor diversified by any but tlie ordinary details of navigation. He felt convinced, from the great sea that rolled from the south, that no land of any extent could lie near him in that direction. When he had ad- vanced so far as to find himself to the north of Carteret's track, he could no longer entertain any hope of finding a continent ; and this circum- stance, with the sickly state of the Adventure's crew, induced him to direct his course to the Society Islands. During this part of his voy- He, he saw a number of those small low ands which compose the Dangerous Archicelago of Bougainville. "Th~ snips narrowly escaped de- struction by drifting on the coral rec£» at Otaheite ; they were saved only by the promntness of their commander, and the unremitting exertions of the crew. On the 24th of August they an^ ^red in their old station in Matavai Bay. The men on board the Resolution were at this time in perfect health ; but the crew of the Adventure, on the other hand, suflered dreadfully from the scurvy, though the two ships were ec|uipped alike, and the same precautionary system to pre- serve the health of the men was pre- scribed to both ; but zeal on the part of the officers was requisite to give efficacy to the orders, and their ex- ample was necessary to encourage the men to sacrifice old habits in order to preserve their constitutions. " During this visit to Otaheite, our navigators obtained a more intimate acquaintance with the manners and character of the natives. Of their religious doctrines they were unable to acquire a distinct knowledge ; but they ascertained that human victims were often sacrificed to their gods. They also witnessed the "Heavas" or dramatic representations of the people, and found them not devoid of archness and ingenuity. The per- formance was generally extemporane- ous, founded upon some incidents presented at the moment, and in which our navigators usually made a prominent figure. Otoo, the present king of Otaheite, a man of fine figure but of remarkably timid disposition, contracted an intimatefricntlship with Captain Cook. Oberea, who, when the island was first visited by Captain Wallis, was so conspicuous a char- a'"ter, was now reduced to an humble utation, and had declined as much in personal appe'Xiance as ^ i rank. It. i« remarkable thai: fr- inauiries were made after Tupi;.-, who had accom- panied Cook in ids former voyage, or after Aootcoroo, tha native of Ota- heite, who had accompp.aied Bou- gainville to Evirope ; bu^ though the islanders were neglectful of their own countrymen, they were unifonrjy soli- citous in inquiring after Mr ^$anks. 60 "On leaving Otaheite, Cook visited the other islands of the group, where he found provisions in greater abund- ance. Oree, the chief of Huaheine, evinced towards him the most aifco- tionate regard. Omai, a native of Ulietea, being desirous to accompany the English, was admitted by Captain Fumeanx on board the Adventure ; he was not of the higher class, and, consequently, not a favourable speci- men of these islanders as far aa re- girded person and deportment ; but is docility and general propriety of conduct eventually justified the choice of Captain Furneaux. A young na- tive of Borabora, named Hete-Hete, or Oedidee (as our great navigator named him), was at the same time allowed by Captain Cook to embark in the Resolution. " On quitting the Society Islands, Cook directed his course to the west, where he had reason to believe, from the accounts of the natives, that mnch yet remained to be explored. At the island named Middleburg by Koggcwein, he was well treated by a chief called Tioony ; at Amsterdam Island his reception was equally favourable. The language of these islanders differed but Tittle from that of Otaheite, and they were evidently of the same race. Some of our navi- gators thought them much hand- somer ; but others, and among these Cook himself, were of a different opinion. The men were grave and stately ; but the women, on the con- trary, were remarkably vivacious, and prattled unceasingly to the strangers, regardless of the mortify- ing fact that the latter could not understand them. But these people were chiefly distinguished from the natives of the Society Islands by their superior industry. On the Island of Amsterdam, Captain Cook was struck with admiration, when he surveyed the cultivation and the beauty of the jcene ; he thought him- self transported into the most fertile plains of Europe ; there was not an inch of waste ground. The roads or paths occupied no more apace than was absolutely necessary, and the COOK'S \OYAOES. [Yot.IL fences did not take np above four inches each ; nor was ttiis small por- of ground wholly lost, for the tion fences themselves contained in gene- ral useful trees or plants. The scene was everywhere the si.me ; and nature, assisted by a little art, nowhere as- sumed a more splendid appearance than in these islands. "Cook now directed his course again to New Zealand ; but, on ap- proaching that country, the ships had to encounter a succession of severe gales and continued bad weather, during which the Adventure was again lost sight of and never after- wards rejoined. On the 3d of Nov- ember the Kesolution anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The winter had been spent not unprofitably in revictualling the ships, restoring the health of the crews, and obtaining a more accurate knowledge of the islands between the tropics. And now, aa summer approached, it was Cook's intention to run from New Zealand, where wood and water were to be procured in abundance, and to explore the high southern latitudes f) >n west to east, in which course he ni. at reckon upon having the winds and currents in his favour. While the Resolution lay in Queen Char- lotte's Sound, indubitable proofs pre- sented themselves that cannibalism was common among the natives. One of them who carried some human flesh in hin canoe, was allowed to broil and eat it on board the Resolu- tion, in order to satisfy the doubts of some of the oificers. Oedidee, who witnessed all this, was shocked be- yond measure at the spectacle. At first he stood motionless as a statue, but his horror at length gave vay to rage, which vented itself rot only on the New Zealander, but on the officers who had encouraged him ; and he could not be induced even to touch the knife which liad been employed to cut the human flesh. "On the 2Cth of November, Cook sailed to prosecute his examination of the Antarctic seas. His crew were in good health and high spirits, not at all d^ected by the arduous task which 1774.] THE STATUES ON was before them. In a few days they crossed the antipodes of London, and were thus on the point of the globe which was most distant from their home. The first ice island was seen on the 12th of December; and, on the 80th of that month, onr naviga- tors had reached the 71st degree of southern latitude ; but here the ice was so compact that it was impossible to proceed any further towards the south ; and it was also obvious that no continent existed in that direction but what must be inaccessible from the ice. It was Cook's intention to winter again within the tropic ; but in preceding thither, he wished to satisfy himself as to the southern land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez. He sailed sufficiently near the position assigned to that supposed continent to assure himself that it could not have been anything more than an island of moderate size. He now directed his course in search of Davis's Land or Easter Island, which had been sought in vain by Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville. Cook, however, succeeded better, and made the island on the 11th of March 1774. The natives were found to speak a language radically the same with that of Otaheite, and which thus reaches across the Pacific Oco t from New Zealand to the sequestered islands in the^ East. Easter Island was found to be remarkably barren, ill supplied with water, and wholly without woo L But the attention of the English vjb forcibly attracted by the great statues seen on the island by Koggewein. About fifteen yards from the landing-place was found a perpendicular wall of square hewn stones, about eight feet in height, and nearly sixty in length ; another wall parallel to the first,' and about forty feet distant from it, was raised to the same height ; the whole area between the walls was filled np and paved with square stones of blackish lava. The stones of the walls were so carefully fitted as to make a dur- able piece of architecture. In the midst of the area was a pillar con- cistine of a single stone, about twenty EASTER ISLAND. 01 feet high and about five feet wide, re< presenting the hnman figure down to the waist. The workmanship was rude but not bad ; nor were the fea- tures of the face ill formed, but the ears were long beyond proportion. On the top of the head was placed upright a huge round cylinder oi stone, above five feet in height and in diameter ; thia cap, which resem- bled the head-dress of an Egyptian divinity, was formed of a kind of stone different from that which com- posed the rest of the pillar, and had a hole on each side, as if it had been made round by turning. It appeared as difficult to explain how the natives of this island, who were but few in number, could carve such huge statues with no better tools than those made of bones or shells, or how they raised them on their pedestals when finished, as to divine for what purpose they undertook such gigantic labours ; for it did not appear that the statues were objects or worship ; yet on the eastern side of the island they were numerous enough to employ the male population of the island for many centuries in their construction. The skill of this people in carving Avas still more manifest in the ornaments of their canoes, and in small wooden figures, of which the English brought home many curious specimens. " From Easter Island Cook directed his course to the Marquesas, dk* covered by Mendana in 1595 ; and on the 6th of April he got sight of one island of the group, which was, how- ever, a new discovery, and received, from the gentleman who first descried it, the name of Hood's Island. The other islands seen by Mendana, St Pedro, Dominica, and St Christiana, were afterwards discovered in succes- sion. The shir) with much difficulty anchored in Mendana's Port in the lost-mentioned island. Magdaleno, the fifth island of the group, was seen only at a distance. Of the in* habitants of these islands Captain Cook tells us, that collectively thef are without exception the finest race of people in this sea ; for fine shap* and regular features they perhaps «a COOK'S VOYAGES. surpass all other natioua. Neverthe- less the affinb/r of their language to that spoken in Otaheite and the Society Islands shows that they are originally of the same nation. Oedi- dee could coo verse with them toler- ably well, though the English oould not, and it was obvious that their languages were nearly the same. In their manners and arts the people re- sembled the natives of Otaheite, but appeared to be rather less ingenious and refined. Forts, or strongholds, were seen on the summits of the highest hills ; but they were not ▼isited by the English, who had not become sui&cfiently acquainted with the natives to venture into the in- terior. " Cook, having rediscovered the Marquesas of Mendana, proceeded to Otaheite, and passing by a group, to which he gave the name of Palliser's Islands, and some others which had been seen by Byron, he anchored in Matavai Bay on the 22d of April. At this time there were no sick on board; but as the island seemed to abound with provisions, our naviga- tor was willing to prolong his stay here. His original stuck in trade was, indeed, now exhausted ; but he found that the people of Otaheite set a great value on the red parrot featliers, of which he had brought a considerable supply from Amsterdam and Middleburg Islands. He thus accidentally learned an advantageous and easy course of traffic in the South Sea. "Among other entertainments with which our navigators were treated during this visit to Otaheite was a grand naval review. The vessels of war consisted of 160 great canoes, from fifty to ninety feet in length ; they were decorated with flogs and streamers; and the chiefs, together with all those who were on the fight- ing stages, were dressed in their war habits. The whole fleet made a noble apx)earance, such as our voyagers had sever before seen, and could not have expected in this part of the world. Besides the vessels of war, 4;here were 170 soil of smaller double canoes, [Vov.II. which seemed to be designed for transports and victuallers. Upon each of them was a small house or shed ; and they were rigged with a mast and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook estimated, at a moderate com- putation, that there could not be less than 7760 men in the fleet ; but the immense number of natives assembled as spectators astonished the English more than the splendour of the ar- mament, and they were still further surprised to learn that this fleet was the naval force of only one of the twenty districts into which the island is divided. On these ec^uivocal grounds they were led to form an extremely exaggerated calculation of the population of Otaheite, which they estimated to be at leasf 200,000 souls ; a number exceeding thb truth, perhaps, ia the proportion of ten to one. " From Otaheite our navigators pro- ceeded to visit the Society Islands, at Huaheine. Cook was affectionately received by the old chief Oree, who still cuefully preserved the medals, coins, and pewter plate with an in- scription commemorating the voyage, which our commander had given him on his former visit. Oedidee, who for seven months had been the faith- ful companion of our voyagers, and had made with them the tour of the Pacific, was put on shore at Ulietea. He left the English with regret de- monstrative of a strong attachment to them ; and nothing could have torn him from them but the 1 «ir of never returning to his native country. He was a fine yuung man, of a docile and humane disposition, and of the better class of natives, being nearly related to Opoony, the formidable chief of Borabora. But from his in- experience and imperfect acquaintance with the traditionary knowledge of his countrymen, but little could be learned from him respecting their history. *' Cook again directed his course to the west, and repeated his visit to the Friendly Islands. This name he gave to a group extending through about 1774.] three degrees of l.ititude and two de- grees of longitude, and comprUing Anamooka, which Tasman, who first discovered it, named Rotterdam, Tongataboo or Amsterdam, Eaoowee or Middleburg, and Pylstart Islands. But this appellation, to which these islands were entitled by the firm alli- ance and friendship which seemed to exist among their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour to strangers, might perhaps be extended much far- ther, so as to include the Boscawon and Keppel Isles discovered by Cap- tain Wallis, and inhabited by people of the same friendly manners. •' Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discovered on the 16th of July, land, which was justly con- jectured to be the 'Terra Australia del Espirito Santo ' of Quiros. After exploring the coast for a few days. Cook came to an anchor in a harbour in the Island of Mallicolo. The in- habitants of this island were the most ugly and deformed race which our navigators had yet seen, and differed in every respect from the other inha- bitants of the Southern Ocean. They were dark coloured, of small stature, with long heads, flat faces, and coun- tenances resembling tliat of a monkey. Their language, also, was found not to have any discoverable affinity with that prevailing through the islands with which the English had any ac- quaintance. This people differed likewise from the great Polynesian race not more by their language and figure than by their scrupiuous hon- esty. As our navigatore proceeded to- wards the south from Mallicolo, they passed by a group which Cook named Shepherd's Isles. Farther to the south was discovered £ large island agreeably diversified xlth woods and lawns over the whole surface, and ex- hibiting a most beautiful and delight- ful prospect. This our navigator named Sandwich Island in compliment to his friend and patron the Earl of Sandwich. Still farther to the south was seen another large island, called by the natives EiTomango, which he coasted for three days, and then came to an anchor in the intention of pro- THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS. 08 curing a supply of wood and water. This, however, could not be effected without a violent conflict with the natives, who were both fierce and treacherous. It was observed that they differed from the inhabitants of Mallicolo both in language and phy- sical conformation ; they were well shaped and had tolerable features, but dark coloured, and with hair crisp and somewhat woolly. From this place Cook sailed for an island which had been descried some time before at a distance. He found that it was called Tanna by the inhabitants, from whom also he learned the names of three other islands in its neigiibour« hood, Inmer, Erronan, and Anaton. Two languages were found to be spoken in Tanna ; one of them, whicn was said to have been introduced from Erronan, was nearly the same with that of the Friendly Islands ; the other, which our navigators consi- dered peculiar to Tanna, Erromango, and Anaton, was different from any they had hitherto met with in the course of their researches. The people at Tanna were well proportioned, but not robust. They had good features and agreeable countenances. Though active, and fond of martial exercises, they seemed incapable of patient labour. It appeared that they prac- tised circumcision, and that they were eaters of hpman flesh ; though, as their island aoonnded with hogs and fowls, and a variety of fruits, they could not be driven by necessity to adopt this horrid practice. "Captain Cook devoted above a mouth to the survey of this archipel- ago, with which previous navigators had made but a superficial acquaint- ance. The northern islands were discovered in 1606 by Quiros, wlio supposed them to be portions of the great southern continent. Bougain- ville, in 1768, dispelled this idea, though he did not proceed to examine the islands near which he sailed ; but Captain Cook, besides ascertaining the extent and situation of the islands already known, "explored the wliole group ; and, conceiving that in con- sequence ho had a right to name 64 COOK'S TOYAQES. [VOT.II. them, bes'jowed on them the appella- tion cf the New Hebrides. " The season was now approachbg when it would be necessary to resume his researches in a high southern lati- tude, and he hastened therefore to New Zealand, where he intended to rcfVesh his people and prepare for a navigation of considerable length. He sailed from the New Hebrides on the 1st of September, and on the 4th discovered land, near which the Reso- lution came to anchor the next day. The inhabitants were a strong, active, and handsome race, bearing some re- semblance to the people of Tanna, and those of the Friendly Isles. The same mixed character was observed in their language. They had never seen Europeans before, but were friendly and obliging in their behaviour ; and what is still more remarkable in the South Seas, strictly honest in all their dealings. To this island Captain Cook gave the name of New Caledonia ; and though compelled by necessity to leave it before it was fully surveyed, he had, nevertheless, examined it suffi- ciently to prove, that, excepting New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean. As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia, land was dis- covered, which, on a nearer approach, was found to be an island of good height, and about five leagues in cir- cuit. It was uninhabited, and pro- bably our English navigators were the first persons who had ever set foot on it. In its vegetable prodnctiovs it bore a close resemblance to New Zea- land. The flax plant of that country was here pailicularly luxuriant ; but the chief produce of the island wna a majestic species of pine, of such • size that, breast high, two men could scarcely clasp the trunk. This little spot was named Norfolk Island. Its fine woods and fertile soil allured, some years later, a party of British settlers ; who finally abandoned it, however, from the inaccessible nature of its coast " On the 18th of October the Reso- Intion came to anchor in Queen Char- lotte's Sound. This was the third time of touching at New Zealand during this voyage. On searching for the bottle which Cook had left behind on his last visit, containing the particu- lars of his arrival, it was found to have been taken away ; and from other circumstances it was evident that the Adventure had visited the harbour aftei the Resolution liad left it. While the Resolution remained here, the in- tercourse maintained with the natives was of the most friendly description. Captain Cook continued his efforts to stock the island with useful animals, and for that purpose ordered a boar and sow to be put on shore. " On the 10th of November he left New Zealand to pursue his voyage to the east. Towards the close of that month, he had reached the Latitude of 55* 48' S., when, deeming it useless to search any longer for a continent in that direction, he bore away for Cape Horn ; and on the 17th of De- cember had sight of Tierra del Fuego. This is the first instance of a run quite across the Southern Pacific. It now only remained for our navigatov to cross also the Southern Atlantic to the point whence he had commenced his explorations. Having completed his examination of Tierra del Fuego And Staaten Land, he proceeded to- wards the east; and, after a voya^ti of ten days, land was seen at a dis- tance, nearly covered with snow. On approaching the shore, it was found to be terminated in many places by perpendicular ice cliffs of considerable Height. Pieces continually broke off with a noise like the report of cannon, and floated out to sea. The general aspect of the country was savage and horrid in the extreme. The wild Tocka raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Our navigator, who at first view of this land supposed that it might be a continent, confesses that he was not much disappointed on dis- covering his error; 'for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would not be worth discovering.' In Latitude 59°, and about eight degrees to tha east of New Georgia, as this inhospK- 1774.] BARBAROUS TREATMENT abl« shore wu named, land wu again aeen, presenting an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-olad summits reached ab^vetbfl clouds. To this blenk region Cook g«v 9 the name of the Southern -Thule, as it was the most southern land which had yet been discovered ; but on leaving the couit he gave to the whole country the general appel- lation of Sandwich Land, which he concluded to be either a group of islands or a point of the southern continent. But the great quantities of ice which he met with led him to infer the existenr of a large tract of land near the Soutli Pole. He now sailed as far as the latitude assigned to Bou- vet's supposed discovery ; but no in- dications of land occurred, nor was it possible to believe any longer in the existence of Cape Circumcision. '• Cook had now made a circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to demonstrate that no southern con- tinent existcLi 'inless near the Pole, and beyori ' tV^ reach of navigation. During this c.*oumnavigation of the globe, from the time of his leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his return to it again, he had sailed no less than 20,000 leagues. On the 13th of July 1775, he landed at Portsmouth, hav- ing been absent from Great Britain three years and eighteen days, during which time, and under all changes of climate, he had lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness. "It has been related above that Captain Cook, on approaching New Zealand for the second time in the course of this voyage, lost sight of the Adventure, and never joined company with that ship again. Captain Fur- neaux was long baffled by adverse winds in his attempt to reach Queen Charlotte's Sound, which was ap- pointed the rendezvous for the ships in case of separation. At length, on the 30th of November, the Adventure fot safe into the desired port. The losolntion not being there, Captain Fumeaux and his company began to entertain doubts of her safety ; but on going on shore they observed on an old stomp of a tree these worda cut OF CREW OF ADVENTURE. 65 out — ' Look underneath.' They dug accordingly, and <>ron ''ound a bottla corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signifying his arrival on the 3d and departure on the 24tli. Great rrertions wera now made to get the Adventure ready for sea, and on the 17th of December, the preparations being completed, Mr Rowe, a midshipman, with nine men, were sent in the large cutter to gather a stock of wild greens for the ship's company. As the boat did not return the same evening nor the next mom* ing, and the ship was now ready for sea, Mr Bumey, the second lieuten- ant, proceeded in search of her in the launch, manned with the boat's crew and ten marines. The launch pro- ceeded, firing guns into all the coves by way of signals, but no traces of the cutter were found till they reached Grass Cove. Here a great many bas- kets were seen lying on the beach tied op; when out open, some of them were found to be full of roasted flesh, and some of fern root, which serv^ the natives for bread. On further search, some shoes were picked up and a hand, which was immediately known to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of the forecastle men, th« initials of his name being marked on it with an Otaheitan tatooing instru- ment. The natives were collected in considerable numbers round Grass Cove, shouting and inviting the Eng- lish to land, out evidently with no friendly intentions. From their num- bers, and the suspicion which their conduct excited in our people. Lieu- tenant Bumey did not deem it pra- dent to trast himself among them; but he pursued his examination far enough to obtain a melancholy cer- tainty as to the fate of his unfortunate companions. ' On the beach, ' he says, 'were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter I a broken oar was stuck up- right m the ground, to which t£e natives had timl their canoes, a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach to see if the cutter wnsr there. We found no boat, but instead 66 of her such a shocking scene of car- nage and barbarity at can never be mentioned nor thonght of but with horror ; for the heads, hearths, and hings of several of our people were seen lying on the beach ; and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails.' The men who had thus fallen victims to the barbarity of the natives were among the healthiest and best of the ship's crew. " The Adventure was detained in the sound four days after this lament- able occurrence, during which time no natives were seen. On the 23d of December, however, she got to sea ; and in little more than a month reached Cape Horn, being favoured by a strong current running to the east, and by westerly winds which blow continually in the summer season in the great ocean. Captain Furneaux continued his course eastward to the Cape of Good Hope, where he refitted his shi}) and refreshed his people. He then sailed for England, and anchored at Spithead on the 14th of July 1774. " In 1769 some discoveries of im- portance were made in the South Seas by a French mercantile adventurer. Two ships were fitted out in Bengal by MM. Law and Chevalier for a trading voyage to Peru, and were E laced under the command of M. di urville. While he was preparing to embark, news arrived in India that the English had discovered in the South Sea, 700 leagues from Peru, and in I^at. 27° S., an island exceed- ingly rich, and inhabited by Jews. This scory gained credit, being con- genial to the avaricious cravings of mankind ; and even those who sus- pected fiction in the mention of Jews wera still willing to believe that the nowly-discovered country was emin- ently rich. Surville, touching at the Bashee Islands, carried off tlirce of the natives to supply the deficiencies of his crew, thus furnishing a conspi- ciK)US example of that overbearing violence which has almost universally forced weak and uncivilised nations to re^rd Europeans as their natural enemies. In running to the south- COOK'S VOYAGES. [Tot. 11. east from New Guinea he discovered land, to which he gave the name of the Land of the Arsacides, and which was, in fact, a part of that long chain of islands that had already been seen by Bougainville, who gave the name of Louisiade to the portion which he had examined. Surville, in his inter- course with the natives, found them to be of a fierce, intractable, and treacherous disposition, and chose to designate them Arsacides, a name which he supposed to be equivalent to the word assassins. Surville after- wards visited New Zealand, and an- chored in a bay, to which he gave the name of Lauriston. Captain Cook, who named it Double Bay, was at the same time employed in surveying its shores, yet these two navigators did not meet nor descry each other. The French commander, having lost his boat while anchoring here, went on shore with an armed jiarty to punish . the natives, whom he supposed to have stolen it. In a short time he burned several ' Jlages, and carried off a native chief. This outrage, perpe- trated by some of the first Europeans who visited them, was soon afterwards repaid with cruel reprisals by the New Zealanders. The chief died at Juan Fernandez, and Surville was drowned while going on shore at Val- parai.so. " The Land of the Arsacides, which Surville had coasted on Ihe north-east- ern side, was again discovered in 1789 by Lieutenant Shortland of the British navy on his voyage from Port Jackson to the East Indies. He followed its southern shores, to which he gave the name of New Georgia, and passed through the Straits of Bougainville, which ho named from himself, being apparently ignorant of the discoveries of the French navigators. The chain of large islands thus seen successively and partially by Bougainville, Sur- ville, and Shortland, and which stretch from north-west to south-east, between New Guinea and the Now Hebrides, are unquestionably the Salomon Is- lands of the early Spanish navigators. The Egmont Island of Carteret, who sought the Salomon Islands, and who KERGUELEN'S EXPLORATIONS, 1774.] approached tlicm very closely without being aw&re of it, may be considered &s belonging to the archipelago. "It has been already mentioned that Bougainville brought home with him to France a native of Utaheito named Aootooroo. When the fame of Cook's discoveries began to excite a general interest in Europe, Captain ilarion du Kresne, animated with a desire to emulate the glory of the English navigator, oflured to take back the Otahcitean to his native land from the Isle of Franco at his own expense. The olfer was accepted, and Kerguelen, a navigator of some note, was commissioned to carry Aootooroo to the Isle of France, and then to proceed to examine more care- fully the southern jwrt of the Atlantic Ocean, The Otaliciteau died at Mada- gjiscar, but Marion did not on that account relinquish liis plans, but pro- ceeded in the ardent hope of making some important discoveries. He ar- rived at New Zealand without any accident, and anchored in the liay of Islands, where his jieople lived on ierins of familiarity, -and apparently of cordial fricnilsliii) with the natives ; but some olfencc wa.s given unawares to the passionate and capricious sav- ages. Alarion was murdereii, with sixteen olHcers and men who had ac- compan'.ed him on shore. Another party of eleven men, who were em- ployed cutting wood in a dilferent quarter, were at the same time set ujion suddenly, and only one escajted to tlie ships to relate the dismal fate of his companions. Whentlie French landed to seek the rcn-aiiis of their unfortunate commander, the natives insultingly cried to them from their fastnesses, ' Tacowry (the chief of the district) has killed and eaten Marion.' After this melancholy accident the sliips returned to the Isle of France under the command of M. Puclcs- meur, all plans of discovery being abandoned. *' Kerguelen, in the meantime, Bailed from the Isle of Franco in January 1772; and, on the 12th of February, discovered in Lat. 50° 5' S., high laud, near tho c^ast of which he 67 remained six days. During this time ho was separated from the corvette which accompanied him. To the bleak and sterile shores which he had discovered he gave his own name ; took formal possession of them, for his sovereign ; and, on his return to France, descriljed their appearance in such glowing terms, that Louis XV., deceived by his representations, hung to his button-hole, with his own hand, the cross of St Louis. Ker- guelen'a enemies, however, insisted that he had seen ice at a distance, and mistaken it for land ; they called on him to show some of the produc- tions of the country as a proof of his discovery, and insinuated that he had purposely got rid of his comrade that he might be at liberty to indulge in gross fictions. The King, however, allorded him the means of refuting these aspersions. Kerguelen sailed again to the Southern Atlantic, and, in December 1773, again discovered land : by the Cth of January following he had traced its coasts above eighty leagues. It wius, however, a barren, inhospitable, and, in general, an un- approachable shore, allbrding nothing that could satisfy the French nation of the importance of his discoveries. On his return he was accused of cul- pable indiU'cronce to the safety of his men and officers, or rather of pur- posely exposing those whom he dis- liked to dangers which eventually proved fatal. Being unable to excul- pate himself, he was deprived of his rank and thrown into prison. " No expedition, fitted out for the purpose of maritime discovery, had over equalled that from which Captain Cook had now returned, in the map- nittulo and orduous nature of its peculiar object ; and none had ever so completely answered its intentions and performed its task with so little loss of life or injury to the .ships. The success of Cook's voyage was gratifying in the highest degree to those who had patronised the under- taking. The Earl of Sandw''h was still at tho head of tho Admiralty, and felt naturally disposed to re- ward liberally one whoso courage and 68 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT.II, skill had so well justified his ezpec- tationa. Cook was immediately raised to the rank of post captain, and ob- tained a more substantial mark of favour, being appointed one of the captains of Greenwich Hospital, which afforded him a liberal maintenance and repose from his professions la- bours. In February 1776, only a few months after his return, he was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society; and on the evening of his first appearance there, a paper was read containing an account of the method he had taken to preserve the health of the crew of his Majesty's ship, the Resolution, during her voyage round the world. The humane and successful attention which Cook bestowed on his ship's comjjany was soon after rewarded by the Copley medal, a prize annually bestowed by the Royal Society on the author of the best experimental paper of the year. In tlie discourse which the president, Si"- John Pringle, delivered on the occasion of bestowing the medal, he uses the following em- phatic expressions : " ' What inquiry can be so useful as that which lias for its object the saving the lives of men? and where shall we find one more successful than that before us ? Here are no vain boastings of the empiric, nor ingen- ious and delusive theories of the dogmatist ; but a concise and artless, and an uncontested, relation of the means by which, under divine favour, Captain Cook, with a company of 118 men, performed a voyage of three years and eighteen days, throughout all the climates from Lat. 62° N., to 71° S., with the loss of only one man by sickness. I would now inquire of the most conversant with the oills of mortality, whetlier, in the most healthy climate and the best condition of life, they have ever found so small a number of deaths within that sj>aco of time f how great and agreeable, then, must our surprise be, after ycr- using the histories of long navigations in former days, when so many perish- ed by marine diseases, to find the air of the sea acquitted of all malignity ; and, in fine, that a voyage round the world may be undertaken with less danger perhaps to health than a com* mon tour in Europe. ' " Tlie great question as to the ex« istence of a southern continent was finally set at rest by tlie result of this voyage ; not but that immense tracks of land might exist in the neighbour- hood of the South Pole. But Cook's researches reduced the limits of the southern continent, if it exist at all within such high latitudes, as com- pletely to dispel all those hopes of unbounded wealth and fertility with which imagination had hitherto graced that undiscovered country. One grand problem still divided the opinions of speculative geographers, and eluded every attempt made at a practical solution. "The English nation had always felt a peculiar interest in the question of a north-west passage. Their earliest and most constant efforts in the career of discovery were directed towards Hud-son's and Baffin's Bays, in search of a communication with the Pacific Ocean, so that they might sail by a shorter navigation to China and Japan. In consequence of the disputes between Mr Dobbs and Cap- tain Middleton, respecting the feasi- bility of the scheme, the agitation of the question was tolerably recent in the public roind, and. Government adopting the views of the former gentleman, a reward of £20,000 was offered by Act < f Parliament to those who should discover the desired pass- age. "The British Government, capti- vated with the glory that might result from expeditions destined for the im- provement of science, resolved now to direct its e^^ertions towards the north- west ; and, as a preliminary measure^ Captain Phipps (afterwards Lord Mul- grave) was despatched towards the Korth Pole, to ascertain how far navi- gation was practicable in that quarter. After struggling obstinately with in- numerable difficulties and dangers, arising from the quantity of ice that beset him, he was obliged to return, after having penotratea to the Lati- tude of 80° 80^, or within nine degrees and a half of the Terrestrial Pole, Feb. 1776.] PROPOSALS FOR THIRD VOYAGK 69 "The hope of finding a passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans was not, however, abandoned; and consultations were held by Lord Sandwich with Sir Hugh Palliser and other exi^rienced officers, relative to the plan which should be adopted in the expedition, and to the choice of a commander, '^iptain Cook had earned, by his eiuL.ent services, the privilege of lionourable repose ; and no one thought of imposing on him, for the third time, the dangers and hardships of a voyage of discovery round the world: but being iuvited to dine with Lord Sandwich, in order that he might lend the light of his valuable experience to the various particulars under discussion, he was 80 fired with the observations that were made on the benefits likely to redound to science, to navigation, and the intercourse of mankind, from the projected expedition, tliat he volun- tarily offered to take the command of it himself. This proposal was too much in accordance with the wishes of Lord Sandwich to be rejected through motives of mere delicacy; and Captain Cook was appointed ac- cordingly to the command of the ex- pedition, in February 1776. The Act of Parliament, passed in 1746, which secured a reward of £20,000 to ships belonging to any of his Majesty's sub- jects, which should make the proposed discovery, was now also amended so as to include ships belonging to his Majesty, and proceeding in any di- rection, for the old Act referred only to ships which should find a pass- age through Hudson's Bay; whereas Cook was directed by his instruc- tions to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, and to commence .his re- searches on the north-west coast of America, in th-^ Latitude of 65°, and not to lose time in exploring rivei-s or inlets until he had reached that latitude." COOrS THIRD YOYAGE.* BOOK L TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEOINNIKO OF THE VOYAGE TILL OUR DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND. CHAPTER I. Having, on the 9th day of February 1776, received a commission to coni- ' The account of this voyage was originally published in 1784, in three quarto volumes, the first and second beinff written by Cook himself, the third by Captain King, who had sailed as one of the Resolution's lieu- tenants, but returned to England in command of the Discovery. The title was as follows: "A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean ; undertaken by the mand his Majesty's sloop the Resolu- tion, I wont on board the next day, hoisted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the same time the command of His Majesty, for making Discoveries in the Northern Hemi- sphere^ to determine the Position and Extent of the West Side of North America, its Distance from Asia, and the Practicability of a Northern Pass- age to Europe. Performed uuder th*" direction of Captains Cook, Clerke, and Gore, in His Majesty's Ships the Resolution and Discovery, in tha TO' COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.TII.B.I.Ch.I. Discovery, of 800 tons burthen, was purchased into the sei'vice, and the commdud of her given to Captain Gierke, who had been my second lieutenant on board the Resolution in my second voyage round the world, from which we had lately returned. These two ships were at this time in the dock at Deptfoixl, under the hands Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. Published by Order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admir- alty." In the portion of the work specially ascribed to Captain Cook, however, there are many valuable contributions from the pen of Mr Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution, usually on the physical features and natural j)roduct3 of the countries visited, the habits, ethnography, and language of the inhabitants, &c. In more than one instance the original editor of the book — Dr Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury, who, at the re- quest of Lord Sandwich, undertook that task — preferred Mr Anderson's notes of actual incidents to Cook's own story ; and not without wisdom, as any one will admit who reads the surgeon's accoimt of the dances and entertainments shown off before the wiiite strangers at Haapee (B. II., Gh. v.), and at Tongataboo (B. II., Ch. VII.). Necessities of space have compelled the omission of many pas- sages direcrly ascribed to Mr Ander- son by Cook himself; but in eveiy case these are scientific and technical in their character, and the lapse of a century has given us abundant light on many matters which at the time of Cook's last voyage were but imper- fectly known, or subjects of crude and vague speculation. Dr Douglas pre- fixed to the voyage an elaborate intro- ductory treatise on the possibility of finding a north-east passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, and also enriched tin; volumes with many learned notes, comparatively few of which have been retained in the i)re- sent edition, as, dealing with matters of controversy longsince settled, and with records of travel all but totally forgot- ten, they could only confuso the reader. of the shipwrights, being ordered to be equipped to make further discoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under my direction. On tiie 9th of Marcli the Resolution was hauled out of dock into the river, where we completed her rigging, and took on board the stores and provi- sions requisite for a voyage of such duration. Both ships, indeed, were supplied with as much of every neces- sary article as we could conveniently stow, and with the best of every kind that could be procured. And besides this, everything that had been found by the experience acquired during our former extensive voyages to be of any utility in preserving the health of sea- men, was supplied m abundance.^ It was our intention to have sailed to Long Reach on the 6th of May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither ; but it was the 29th be- fore the wind would permit us to move, and the 30th before we arrived at that station, where our artillery, powder, shot, and other ordnance stores were received. While we lay in Long Reach thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the last mark of the very great attention they had all along shown to this equipment, paid us a visit on the 8th of June, to examine whether everything had been completed con- formably to their intentions and orders, and to tiie satisfaction of all who were to embark in the voyage. They and several other noblemen and gentlemen, their friends, honoured me with their company at dinner on that day ; and on their coming on board, and also on their going ashore, wo saluted them with seventeen guns, and three cheers. With the benevolent view of con- voying some pennanent benefit to the iniiabitants of Otaheito, and of tlie ^ Contrast the excellence of Cook's equipment and the perfect success of his armngements for securing the health of his ships' companies, with the wretched plight in which Anson loft port tliirty-six years before, and the miserable fate of his crews. JtmE 1776.] EQUIPMENT OF RESOLUTION AND DISCOVERY. 71 other islands in the Paciflc Ocean, whom we might happen to visit, his Majesty having commanded some use- ful animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the 10th, a bull, two cows, with their calves, and some sheep, with hay and corn for their subsistence, intending to add to these other useful animals when I should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. I was also, from tlie same laudable mo- tives, furnished with a sufficient quan- tity of such of our European garden seeds as could not fail to be a v^uable {)rescnt to our newly-discovered is- ands, by adding fresh supi)lie8 of food to their own vegetable productions. Many other articles calculated to im- prove the condition of our friends in the other hemisphere in various ways, were at the same time delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both ships were provided with a proper assortment of iron tools and trinkets, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants of such new countries as we might be fortunate enough to meet with. The same humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our crews ; and notliing was denied to us that could be supposed in the least con- ducive to health, or even to conven- ience. Nor did the extraordinary care of those at the head of the naval department stop here. They were equally solicitous to afford us every assistance towards rendering our voyage of public utility. According- ly, wo received on board, next day, several astronomical and nautical in- struments, which the Board of liongi- tude intrusted to me and to Mr King, my second lieutenant ; we having engaged to that Board to make aU the necessary observations during the voyage for the improvement of astro- nomy and navigation, and, by our joint labours, to supply the place of a professed observator. Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who, to ekill in his immediate profession, added great proAciency in natural his- tory, was as willing as he was well qualified to describe everything in that branch of science which should occur worthy of notice. As he had already visited the South Sea islands in the same sliip, and been of singular service by enabling me to enrich my re- lation of thatvoyage with various useful remarks on men and things, I reason- ably expected to derive considerable as- sistance from him, inrecordingour new proceedings. I had several young men amongst my sea-officers, who, under my direction, could be usefully em- ployed in constructing charts, in tak- ing views of the coasts and headlands near which we should pass, and in drawing plans of the bays and har- bours in which we should anchor. Every preparation being now com- pleted, I received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Dis- covery under my command. I ac- cordingly gave Captain Gierke two orders ; one to put himself under my command, and tlio o*her to carry his sliip round to Plymouth. On the 15th, the Resolution sailed from Long Reach, with the Discovery in company, and the same evening tliey anchored at the Nore. Next day the Discovery Eroceeded in obedience to my order ; ut the Resolution was ordered to re- main at the Nore till I should join her, being at this time in London. As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands in our way to the intended scene of our fresh opera- tions, it had been determined not to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to happen) of carrying Omai back to his native country. Omai left London with a mixture of regret and satisfaction. When we talked about England, and about those who, during his stay, had honoured him with their protection or friend- ship, 1 could observe that his spirits were sensibly affected, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But the instant the conversa- tion turned to liis own islands, his eyes began to spaikle with joy. He was deeply impressed witli a sense of the good treatment he had met with in England, and entertained the high* 72 COOK'S VOYAGES. est ideas of tha country and of the people. But the pleasing prospect he now had before him of returning home, loaded with what he well knew would be esteemed invaluable treasures there, and the flattering hope which the i)os- ■ession of these gave him of attaining to a distinguished superiority amongst Ilia countrjrmen, were considerations which operated by degrees to suppress every uneasy sensation ; and he seemed to he quite happy when he got on board the ship. He was furnished by his Majesty with an ample provi- sion of every article which, during our intercourse with his country, we had observed to be in any estimation there, either as useful or as orna- mental. He had, besides, received many presents of the same nature from Lord Sandwich, Mr^ Banks, and several other gentlemen and ladies of his ac- quaintance. In short, every method bad been employed, both during his abode in England, and at his depar- ture, to make him the instrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean the most exalted opinion of the greatness and generosity of the British nation. On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, and made sail for the Downs, through the Queen's Channel, with a gentle breeze at NW. by W. At nine in the evening we ancnored, with the North Foreland bearing S. by E., and Margate Point SW. by S. Next morning, at 2 o'clock, we weighed and stood round the Foreland. At 8 o'clock the same morning, we anchored in the Downs. Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediate- ly sent on shore for them. I was told that many people had assembled there to see Omai ; but, to their great dis- appointment, he did not land. Hav- ing received the boats on board, and a light breeze at SSE. springing up, we got under sail the next day at 2 o'clock in the afternoon. But the breeze soon died away, and we were obliged to annhor again till 10 o'clock at night. We then weighed, with the wind at east, and proceeded down * Afterwards Sir Joseph. [VoT.III.B.I.Cu.I. the Channel. On the SOth, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, We anchored in Plymouth Sound, where the Dii- covery had arrived only three days before. I saluted Admiral Amherst, whose fla^ was flying on board the Ocean, with tliirteen guns, and he returned the compliment with eleven. It was the first object of our care, on arriving at PljTuouth, to replace the water and provisions that we had ex* pended, and to receive on board a supply of port wine. This was the employment which occupied us on the 1st and 2d of July. It could not but occur to us as a singular and aflecting circumstance, that at the very instant of our de- parture upon a voyage, the object of which was to benefit Europe by making fresh discoveries in North America, there should be the unhappy necessity of employing others of his Majesty's Aips, and of conveying numerous Dodies of land forces, to secure the cbedience of those parts of that continent which had been dis- covered and settled by our countiy- men in the last century. On the 6th, his j^Iajesty 8 ships Diamond, Ambus- cade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of transports, consisting of sixty-two sail, bound to America, with the last division of the Hessian troops, and some horse,' were forced into the Sound by a strong north-west wind. On the 8th, I received by express, my instructions for the vr ^age, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Resolution. I was also directed to leave an order for Captain Gierke to follow us, as soon as he should join his ship ; he be- ing, at this time, detained in London. The Resolution was fitted out with the same complement of officera and men «he had before ;* and the Dis- covery's establishment varied from that of the Adventure, in the single instance of her having no maiine ^ To reinforce Sir William Howe^ t.ien confronting General Washing* ton, near New York. * In sotting out on the socosd roj-> age in 1772. July 1776.] CREWS OF RESOLUTION AND DISCOVERY. 78 officer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed at Ply- mouth ; and, on the 9th, we received the party of marines allotted for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who com- mended the division at this port, gave me such men for the detach- ment as I had reason to be satisfied with. And tht* supernumerary sea- men, occasioned by this reinforce- ment, being turned over into the Ocean man-of-war, our several com- plements remained fixed, as repre* sented in the following table : RESOLUTION. DISCOVERY. Officers and Mm. No. 1 Officers' Names. No. OffiMrs' Names. Captain, . . James Cook. , 1 Charles Qerke. Lieutenants, . . 3 John Gore. . James King. . John Williamson. . 2 James Bumey. John Rickman. Master, 1 William Bli^h.» . Thomas Edgar. Boatswain, . 1 William Ewin. Eneas Atkins. Carpenter. . 1 James Cleveiy. Peter Reynolds. Gunner, . 1 Robert Andei son. , William Peckover. Surgeon, 1 William Anderson. John Law. Master's Mates, 3 . • • • Midshipmen, 6 Surgeon's Mutes, . 2 Captain's Clerk, . 1 Master at Anns, . 1 'Corporal, . , 1 Armourer, . 1 Ditto Mate, . 1 Sailmaker, . 1 Ditto Mate, . 1 Boatswain's Mates, 3 Carpenter's Ditto, . 3 Gunner's Ditto, , 2 j CarTK^nter's Crew, . Cook, . i 1 Ditto Mate, . 1 Quarter-Masters, . 6 4 Able Seamen, • 45 33 Marines. Lieutenant, . • 1 Molesworth Philips. Sergeant, . . 1 • • • • 1 Corjwrals, . . 2 • • • • 1 Drummer, . . 1 t « • ■ 1 Privates, . . 16 >i • • • 8 Total, 112 80 * Afterwards captain of the Bounty, famous for his voyage of nearly 4000 miles in an open boat, into whicli he and twenty of his crew had been foxsed after the mutiny on board that veueL 74 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vor.III.B.l.Cn.II. On the 10th, the commissioner and pay-clerks came on board, anie8, wliich docs not much exceed one degree and a (piar- ter. As to its extent from east to west, that still remains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach so fwr to the west as th(> meri- dian of 65^; because, in 1771?, tmder that meriilian, I searched for it in vain. The French discoverers, witu some reason, imagined Cajm St Ivouis to be the {irojecting point of a southern continent. The Knpiish have since proved tliat no sueh continent exists; and that the land in question is nn island of no great extent,* whieh, from its sterility, \ should, with great propriety, call th< island of Desola- tion, but that I would not rob Mou- sieur do Kergueien of the honour of its bearing his namt>> . . . CHAPTER 7.» Betno desirous of getting the length of Cape George,*'' to bo assured whetlicr or no it was the most southerly jtoint of the vvluile land, 1 continued to stretch to the south, under ail the sail we could carry, till half-an-hour past 7 o'clock [December iiO]; wlien, seeing no likelihood of accomplisliing my design, as the wind had by tliis time shifted to WSW., tlie very di- rection in which we wanted to go, 1 took the advantage of the shifting of the wind, and stood away from the coast At this time, Cape George bore S. 53" W., distant about seven leagues. A small island that iies oif the pitch of tiie ca{»e, was the only land we could see to tlie south of it ; and we were further contirmed that there was no more in that quarter, by a SSV. swell which we met as soon us we brought the capo to boar in this direction. !Jut we have still a stronger proof that no part, of tiiis land can extend much, if at all, to the southward of Cape George ; and that is. Captain Furneaux's track in February 1773, * This Chapter is almost entirely de- voted to a minute ac^'onnt of Captain Cook's examination of the coast of Kergueieu's Land, and to Mr Ander- son's observations on ti'e natural products, the animals, the soil, &c., i>f that remote and unprofitable re- gion. The prt'seat interest of those matters is so slight, that there is no loss in the omission of the Ciiapter, \vith the exception ol' a brief passage, in which Cook athrms tlie insularity of Kergueien 'a Land, described at fust by its discoverer as a magnidcent continent ' So called by Captain Cook in honour of the King : it is placed by bim i.-^ Latitude Ht" 54' S.. Longi- tude 70° la' E. • Kerguelon concurs with Captain Cook as to this. However, ho tells us, that he has reft.son to believe that it is about 200 leagues in circuit ; and that he was acquainttid with about fourscore leagues of its coast. " J'en connois environs quatre-vingt lieurs desc-)t08; ct j'ai lieu decroire, quVlIe a environ deux cents lieues do cir- cuit. " — Note in Orif/mal Edition, * Cook's alternative title, amply Jan. 1777.] FROM KERGUELEN'S CHAPTER VI. An'EH leaving KoiTyiiclon'a Lnnd I Bttcrcd E. bj' N., iiitciidin;^, in obeil- kiice to my iiistiiutions, to toiu-h lu'xt at New Zcfihuni, to rocniit our wiiter, to tfilie in wood, and to make bay tor tlio cattle. Their number by tliiH timo iiad been considerably diminished ; two young bulls, oin' of the heifers, two rams, and several of the goats having >>|" late died while we were employed in exjdoring this deso- late coast. . . . Thus far [to Jan, 8] wo bad fresh gales from the W, and SW., and tolerably clear weather. Hut now the wind veered to tiio N., wher*? it continued eight days, and was at- tended with a thick fog. During this time, we ran above aOO leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would clear up, and give na a sight of the sun ; but this happened very seldom, and was always of short continuance. On the 7th, I hoisted out a Iwat, and sent an order to Cap- tain Gierke, appointing Adventure Hay, in Van Diemen'b Ijand, as our place of rendezvous, in case of separa- tion liefore we arrived in the meridian of that land. lint we were fortunate enough, amidst all this foggy we.ither, by frequently tiring guns .as signals, tliouga we seldom buw each other, not to lo;>o company. Cn the r2th, being in the Tiatitiide of 48' 40' S.. Longitude 110" 26 K., the northerly winds ended in a calm ; whi(!h, after a few lioMrh, «»» snc- cedod by a wind front iie bcuthward. This, with rain, continuM for twenty- four hours ; when it freshened, and veered to the w*-** and north-west, «nd bronchi on fair and clear weather. v^ continued our conrHe to the east- ward, without mcotin'C with anything worthy of notice, till 4 o'elock in tlie morning of the 19th. when, in a ••iidden squall of wind, thouiTt; the iJiscovery received no daniago, our justified by all that he and Mr Ander- son cbeerveil, is now commonly adopted in English maps. TO VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. 85 fore-topmast went by the board, and carried the maintop-gallantnia.st with it. This ocea-sioned some delay, as it took us uj) tbo whole duy to clear the wreck, and vo fit anotlnr topmast. The former v,MS accomplished without losing any part of it, except a few fathoms of small rope. Not having ftsjinre maintop-gallantmastou board, the foretop-gallantina.st was converted into one lor our iinniediate nso. On the 24th, at 3 o'clock in the niorniiig, we discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing N. half \V. At 8 o'clock in the afternoon we sounded, and found sixty fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and shells. Soon after we had sight of land the westerly winds left us, and were suci;eeiled by variable light aire and alternate calms, till the 2t)tli at noo'i. At that time a breeze 8j»rung np and freshened at SK., which put it in my jfower to carry into execution the design I had upon due considera- tion fonned, of carrying the shins into Adventure Bay, where I might expect to get a su]>ply of wood and of ■grass for the e iitle ; of botli which articles we should, as I now found, have been in great want, if I had waited till our arrival in New Zea- land. We therefore Rtood for the bay, Rnenter, with part of his crew, to cut some spars for the use of the ship ; and despatched Mr Roberts, one of the mates, in a small l)oat to survey the bay. In the afternoon, we were agree- ably surprised, at the place where we were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the natives — eight men and a boy. They approached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable ; for none of tliem had any weapons, except one who held in his hand a stick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments, unle.ss we consider as such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some large punctures or ridges raised on dificrent parts of their bodies, some in straight and others in curved lines. They were of the conimon stature, but rather slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair, which was aswooUy as that of any native of Ouinea ; but they were not distinguished by remark- ably thick lips, nor flat aeses. On the contrary, their featons were far from being disagreeable. Thnr kal pretty gootl ey«, and th«r .oet^ «■■ tolerably even, but very dirty. ■■« COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. I. Ch. TL of them had their hair and beards smeared with a red ointment ; and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. They received every present wo made to them with- out the least appearance of satisiac* t*on. When some bread was ^iven, as b'oon as they understood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it or threw it away, without even tasting it. They also refused some elephant fish, both raw and dressed, which wa offered to them. But upon giving some birds to them, they did not rfl« turn these, and easily made us com* prehend that they were fond of such food. I had brought two pigs ashore, with a view to leave them in the woods. The instant these came with* in their reach, they seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off imme- diately, with no other intention, as we could perceive, but to kill them. Being desirous of knowing the uss of the stick which one of our visitors carried in his hand, I made signs to them to show me, and ho far succeeded, that one of them set np u piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the distance of about twenty yards. But we had little reason to commend his dexterity, for after rej^eated trials, ho was still very wide from the object. Omai, to show them how much supe* rior our weapons were to theirs, then fired his musket at it; which alarmed them so much, that notwithstanding all we could do or say, they ran in- stantly into the woods. One of them was so frightened, that he let drop an axe and two knives that had been given to him. From us, however, they went to the place where some of the Discovery's peojjle were employed in taking water into their boat, 'i'be officer of that party, not knowing that they hod paid us so friendly a visit, nor what their intent might be, fired a musket in the air, whicTi sent them off with the greatest psecipitation. Thus ended our first interview with the natives. Immediately after tlieir final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their remaining near enough to observe what was passinj^ Jan. 1777.] I ordered two pigs, being a boar and BOW, to be carried about a mile with* in the woods, at the head of the bay, 1 saw them left there, by the side of a fresh-water brouk. A younj? bull aiid a cow, and <(ome sheep and goats Tvcre also at first iutended to nave been left by me, as an adJiti'Mial pre- sent to Van Diemen'sLand. Rut I soon laid aside all thoughts of tbia, from a persuasioa that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of improving tl'.eir country, would destroy them. If ever they should meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as chat race of anin. ala soon becomes wild, and is fond of the thickest cover of the woods, there is great probability of their being p.-e- served. An open place must have been choeen for the accommodation of the other cattle ; and in such a situa- tion they conld not possibly have re- mained concealed many days. The morning of the 29th was ushered in with a dead calm, whicti <;ontinued all day, and offe<;tually prevented our sailing. I thereioro sent a party over to the east point of the bay to cut grass, having been informed that some of a sujwrior quality grew there. Another party, to cut wood, was ordered to go to the usual place, and I ttC(!ompanieti them myself. We had observea several of the natives this morning sauntering along the shore, whi«t:k than by the drollery of his gestures and the seem- ing humour of his siwches, which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we supposof., for our entertainment But, Qufortunately, we could not ander- INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES. 87 stand him ; the langua^ ipoken here being wholly unintmligible to n& It appeared to me to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this country whom I met witn in my first voyage, which is not extraordinaiy, since those we now saw, and those we then visited, differ in many other respects. * Nor did they seem to be such miserable wretches as the natives whom Dampier mentions to have seen on its western coast Some of our present group wore, loose round their necks, three or four folds of sniall cord made of the fur of some animal ; and others of them had a narrow slilt of the kan- garoo skin tied i ound their ancles. I gave to each of them a string of beads and a medal, which I thought they received with some satisfaction. They seemed to set no value on iron or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the use of fish-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking; at some of ours wliich ww showed to them. We cannot, however, suppose it to be possible that a people who inhabit a sea coast, and woo seem to derive no part of their sustenanc from the protluctions of the grouad, should not be acquainted with some mode of catching fish, although we did not happen to see any of them thus employed, uor observe any canoe or vessel in which they coukl goupon the water. Though they absolnttly re- jected the sort of fish that we olfered to them, it was evident that shell-fish, at least, made a part of their KikmI, from the many heaps of musi'iel-shellswe saw in different parts near the shore, and about some deserted habitations near the head of the bay. These wei-e little sheds or hovels l)uilt of stieka and covered with bark. W« could als« perceive evident signs of their some- ' The most striking diflTerence i ed to be with regard to th* texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cook met with at E»te»wir River in 1760 are saiti by kiMl» have natur- ally long and hkA Mr, though it be uaiversally cropped short. 88 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. E. I. Ch. VI. times taking np their abode in the trunks of large trofis, wWch had been ioUowed out by fire most ])robabiv for this very purpose. In or near all these habitations, and wherever there was a heap of shells, there re- mained the marks of fire, an iiulubit- able proof that they do not eat their food raw. After staying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, as I could now be pretty confident that the latter were not likely to give the former any disturbance, I left them, and went over to the grass-cuttei's on the east point of the bay, and found that they hacf met with a fine patch. Having seen the boats loaded, 1 left that party and returned on board to dinner, wliere, some time alter. Lieu- tenant King arrived. From him I learned that I had but just left the shore when several women and chil- dren made their appearance, and were introduced to him by some of the men who attended tliem. lie gave pre- sents to all of them of such triilus as he had about him. These females wore a kangaroo skin (in the same shape as it came from the animal) tied over the shoulders and round the waist. But its onlv use seemed to be to support their children when car- ried on their backs, for it did not cover those parts which most nations conceal ; being in all other respects as naked as the men, and as black, and their bodies marked with scars in the same manner. H\it in this they dif- fered from the men, that though their hair was of the same colour and tex- ture, somo of them had their heads completely shorn or shaved ; in others this operation had been performed only on one side, while the rest of them had all the upper part of tlie head shorn close, leaving a circle of hair all round, somewhat like the tonuure of the Ilomish ecclesiastics. Many of the cliildren had fine features, and were thought nretty ; but of tlio persons of the womtn, especially those advanced in years, a less favourable report was made. However, some of the gentlemen belonging to the Discovery, I was told, paid their addresses,andmndeliboralofrersofpr(». sents, which were rejected with great disdain ; whether from a sense of virtue, or the fear of displeasing their men, I shall not pretend to detennino. That this gallantry was not very agree- able, to tlie latter, is certiiin ; for an elderly man, as soon as he observeil it, ordered all the women and children to retire, wliich tliey obeyed, though some of them showed a little reluct* ance. This conduct of Europeans amongst savages to their women is higlily blamable, as it creates a jealousy in their men that may be attended with consequences fatal to the success of the common enterprise, and to the wliole body of adventurers, without advancing the private pun)oso of the indiyidual, or enabling him to gain the oliject of his wishes. I believe it has been generally found, amongst uncivilised people, that where the women are esusy of access the men are the first to offer them to strangers ; and that, where this is not the ca.so, neither the allurement of presents nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the desired cHect. This observation, I am sure, will hold good throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why, then, should men act so absurd a ])art as to risk their own safety, and that of all tlieir companions, in pursuit of a gratification which they have no pro- bability of obtaining ? In the afternoon I wont again to the riss-cutters to forward their work, found them then upon Penguin Island, where they had met with a plentiful crop of excellent grass. We laboured hard till sunset, and then repaireil on board satisfied with the quantity wo liad collected, which I judged suUicient to lust till our arrival in New Zealand. During our whole stay we had either calms or liglit airs from the eastward. Little or no timo, therefore, was lost by my putting in at this place. For if I had kept the sea, wo should not have been twenty leagues advanced farther on our voy- age ; and, short as our continuauc« was hero, it has enabled lue to odd Feb. 1777.] ARIHTAL AT NEW ZEALAND. Bomewbat to the imperfect acquaint- ance that has hitherto been acquired with thia part of the globe. ^ CHAPTER VII. At 8 o'clock in the morning of the 80lh of January, a light breeze spring- ing up at W., we weighed anchor, and put to sea from Adventure Bay. Soon after, the wind veered to the southward, and increased to a perfect Btorm. Its fury abated in the even- ing, when it veered to the E. and NE. "Wo pursued our course to the eastward without meeting with any- thing worthy of note, till the night between the 6th and 7th of February, when a marine belonging to the Dis- covery fell overboard and was never seen afterward. This was the second niisfortune of the kind tliat hrd hap- Iicncd to Captain Clerko since he left i^iigland. ' On the 10th, at four in the after- noon, wo discovered the land of New Zealand, The part we saw proved to be Hocks Point, and bore SE. by S. , about eight or nine leagues distant. After making the lanil, I steered for Cape Farewell, which at daybreak tlie next morning bore S. by W., distant about four leagues. At 8 o'clock it bore SW. by S., about five leagues distant ; and in this situa- tion, we had forty-five fathoms water over a sandy bottom. In rounding the Capo we had fifty fathoms, and the same sort of bottom. I now steered for Stephen's Island, which we came up with at 9 o'clock at night ; and at ten next morning, anchored in our old station in Queen Cliarlotte's Sound. Unwilling to lo.se any time, our operations commenced that very afternoon, when wo landed a number of empty watercusks, and began to clear a place where we might * Several pages of naturalistic and other observations on Van Diomen's Ijind, by Mr Anderson — valuable and novel in their day, but now devoid of interest— ore Itere omitted. 89 set up the two observatories, and tents for the reception of a guanl and of such of our people whose business might !->ake it necessary for them to remain on shore. We had not been long at anchor before several canoes, filled with natives, came alongside of the ships ; but very few of them would venture on board, which appeared the more extraordinary, as 1 was well known to them all. There was one man in particular amongst them whom I had treated with remarkable kindness during tho whole of my stay when I was last here. Yet now neither pro- fessions of friendship nor presents could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be accounted for only upon this sup- position, that they were apprehensive we had remited their country in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board my ship now, whonj they must havo remembered to hi^vo seen on board the Adventure when the mel- ancholy affair happened, and whose first conversation with them, oa they approached, generally turned on that subject, they must bo well assured that I was no longer a stranger to it. I thought it necessary, therefore, to use every endeavour to assure them of the continuaiKie of my friendship, and that I should not disturb them on that account. I do not know whetlicr this had any weight with them ; but certain it is, that they very soon laid asiilo all manner of restraint and distrust. On the 13th we set up two tents, one from each ship, on the same spot where wo hud pitched them formerly. Tho okservatories were at the same time erected ; and Messrs King and Bayly began their operations imme- diately, to find tho rate of the time- keeper, and to make other observa- tions. Tho remainder of the cmjity water-casks were also sent on shore, with the cooper to trim and a sufli« cient number of sailora to fill them. Two men were appointed to brevr spruce beer, and the carpenter and hia crow were ordered to cut wood. 90 A boat, with • party of men, under the direction of one of the mates, was sent to collect grass for our cattle ; and the people that remained on board were employed in refittin^j the ehip, and arranging the provisions. In this manner wo were all profitably busied during our stay. For the pro- tection of the party on shore, I ap- pointed a guard of ten marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen ; and Mr King and two or three petty officers, constantly remained with thoHi. A boat was never sent to any considerable distance from the ships without being armed, and under the direction of such officers as I could depend upon, and who were well ac- quainted with the natives. During my former visits to this country, I had never taken some of these pre- cautions ; nor were they, I firmly be- lieve, more necessary now than they had been formerly. But after the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in this sound, and of Captain Marion du Fr&sne, and of some of his people, in the Bay of Islands,* it was impossible totally to divest ourselves of all apprehension of experiencing a similar calamity. If the natives entertained any sus- picion of our revenging these acts of barbarity, thev very soon laid it aside. For, during the course of this day, a great number of families came from different parts of the coast, and took np their residence close to us ; so that there was not a spot in the cove where a hut con Id be put up, that was not occupied by them, exrept the place where we had fixed our little encampment. This they left us in quiot possession of; but they came and took away the ruins of some old huts that were there, as materials for their new erections. It is curious to observe with what facility they build these occasional places of abode. I have seen above twenty of them erected on a spot of ground that, not an hour before, was covered with shrubs and plants. They generally bring some part of the materials with COOK'S VOYAGES, them ; the In 1772. [VoT.III.B.I.Cn.'VIt rest they find npon the promises. I was present when a number of people landed, and built one of these villages. The moment the cnnoes reached the shore, the men lea^Msd out, and at once took posses- sion of a piece of ground, by tearing up the plants and shrubs, or sticking un some part of the framing of a huC They then returned to their canoe*, and secured their weapons bjr sotting them apaga^'nstatree, or placing them in such a position that they could be laid hold of in an instant. I took particular notice that no one neglected this precaution. While the men were employed in raising the huts, the women were not idle. Some were stationed to take care of the oanoes : others to secure the provisions, and the few utensils in their possession ; and the r&' what I heard from many of his country- men, he seemed to bo more feared than beloved amongst them. Not satisfied with telling me that he woo a very bad man, some of them even importuned me to kill him ; and, I believe, they were not a little sur- })ri8ed that I did not listen to them ; or, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. But if I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have ex- tirpated the whole race ; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns, applied to me to destroy the other. One would have almost thought it impossible that so striking a proof of the divided state in which this miserable people live could have been a58i}.Mied. And yet 1 was sure that I did not misconceive the meaning of those who mode these strange appli. cations to me ; for Omai, whose lan- guage was a dialect of their own, and perfectly understood all that they ■aid, was our interpreter. On the 16th, I made an excursion in my boat to look fo» grass, and visited the "hippah," or fortified villnge,* at the SW. point of Motuara, and the places where our gardens had been planted on that island. There were no people at the fonner ; but the houses and ^allisadcs had been rebuilt, and were now in a state of good repair ; and there were other evident marks of its having been in* habited not long before. When the Adventure arrived first at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773, Mr Bayly fixed upon this place for making his observations ; and he and the people with him, at their leisure hours, planted several spots with English garden seeds. Not the least vestige of these now remained. It is probable that they had been all rooted out to make room for buildings, when the village was re-inhabited; for at all the other gardens then planted by Captain Fumeaux, al« though now wholly overrun with the weeds of the country, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purslane, radishes, mustard, &c., and a few potatoes. These potatoes, which were first brought from the Caix) of Good Hope, had been greatly im- proved by change of soil ; and, with proper cultivation, would bo superior to those produced in most other countries. Though the New Zea- landers are fond of this root, it waa evident that they had not taken the trouble to ])lant a single one (much less any other of the articles which we had introduced) ; and if it were not for the difficulty of clearing ground where potatoes had been once planted, there would not have been any now remaining. On the 16th, at daybreak, I set out with a party of men, in five boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain * Of which a minute description is given in the account of Cook's fii-st voyage, in llawkesworth's Collection. The nipjMihs, or pahs, of New Zea- land have become painfully familiar to English minds by the experiences of the late war in that colouy. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // (./ 1.0 !t« I.I M 125 ■^ IS^ 1112.2 t 1^ 12.0 11.25 mil i.4 1.6 Pm ^ ^»/ ^. m. ». A r c*:^^. .''■^ -^v* ^. -C ^ J> y /s^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST WiAIN STREET WeaSTER.N.Y. 14580 CIA) 3 '2-4503 K^ ^ ^^/^ ^ ;V 92 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot.III.B.I.Ch.VII. Gierke, and several of tlio oflioera, Omai, and two of tlie natives, accom- panied me. We proceeded about three leagues up the sound, nud then landed on the east side, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grass as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the sound, we visited Grass Cove, the memorable scene of the massacre of Captain Furneaux's people. We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of the boats with grass, celery, scurvy-grass, &c., we embarked to return to the ships. AVe had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoo and accompany us ; but we had scarcely put off from the shore, when the wind began to blow very hard at NW., which obliged him to put back. We proceeded our- selves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty that wo could reach the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till 1 o'clock the next morning; and it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it after- ward blew a perfect storm, with abun- dance of rain, so that no manner of work could go forward that dry. In tho evening t; ) gale ceased, and the wind having veered to the east, brought with it fair weather. The next day we resumed our works; the natives ventured out to catch fish; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near us. This chief's proper name is Matahouah ; the other being given him by some of my people during my last voyage, which I did not know till now. He was, however, eijually well known amongst his countrymen by both names. • On the 20th, in tho forenoon, we had another storm from the NW. Though this was not of so long con- tinuance as the former, the gusts of wind from the hills were far more violent, insomuch that we were obliged to strike the yards and top- masts to the very utmost ; and, even with all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it out. These storms are very frequent here, and anmetimM violent and troublesome. Tho neighbouring mountains, which at tliese times are always loaded with vapours, not only increase the force of the wind, but alter its direction in such a manner, that no two blasts follow each other from the same quar- ter; and the nearer the sliore, tlie more tlieir effects are felt. The next day we were visited by a tribe or family consisting of about thirty persons, men, women, and children, who •came from the upper part of the sound. I had never seen tliem be- fore. The name of their chief was Tomatongeauooranuc, a man of about forty -five years of age, with a cheerful open countenance ; and, indeed, the rest of his tribe were, in general, the handsomest of the New Zealand race I had ever met with. By tliis time more than two-thirds of the inhabit- ants of the sound had settled them- selves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the ships and the encampment on shore ; but the latter became by far the most favourite place of resort, while our people there were melting some seal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train oil than our friends here seem to be. They relished the very skimmings of the kettle and dregs of the casks; but a little of the pure stinking oil was a delicious ff^ast, so eagerly de- sired, that 1 supposed it is seldom enjoyed. Having got on board as much hay and grass as we judged sulllcient to serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood ani water of both ships, on the 23d we struck our tents, and carried everything off from the shore; and next morning we weighed anchor and stood out of the cove. But the wind not being very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be spent before we could get out of the sound, we cast anchor again a little without the Island Motuara, to wait for a more favourable opportunity ef putting into the strait. While we were unmooring and getting under sail. Tomaton- geauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the natives, came to take their leave of us, or rather to obtain, LIVE STC FEB.177r.] - if they could, oome additional pr from us before we left them. 1 two chiefs became suitors to m some goats and hogs. Accordij I gave to Matahouah two goa male and female with kid ; an Tomatongeauooranuc two pigs, a and a sow. They made mo' a mise not to kill them, though I i own I put no great faith in this, animals which Captain Furneaux oil shore here, and which soon fell into the hands of the naliv Mas now told were all dead ; b could get no intelligence about fate of those I had left in West J and m Cannibal Cove, when I here iu the course of my last voy However, all the natives whom I versed with agreed that poultry now to be met with wild in the W( behind Ship Cove ; and I was al ward informed, by the two yoi who went away with us, that Tira a i)opular cliief amongst thein, hi great many cocks and hens in separate possession, and one of sows. Oa my present arrival at this pi I fully intended to have left not c goats and hogs, but sheep, an young bull, with two heifers, i could have found eituer a chief poi ful enough to protect and keep th or a [ilace where there might 1 probability of their being conce from those who would i"-noiii attempt to destroy them. But nei the one nor the other presented i to me. I could not learn that t remained in our neighbourhood tribe whose numbers could secui them a superiority of power over rest of their countrymen. To 1 given tho animals to any of the tives who possessed no such pc would not have answered the in tion ; for in a country like this, w no man's property is secure, 1 Would soon have fallen a prey to ferent parties, and been either s rated or killed ; but most likely b This was so evident, from what had observed since our arrival, tli had resolved to leave no kind of mal, till Matahouah and the o LIVE STOCK LEFT ASHORE. got on board as much hay as we jud^od siilficient to cattle till our arrival at iid having completed the vater of both ships, on the ick onr tents, and carried off from the shore; and ing we weighed anchor and )ftliecove. But the wind very fair, and finding that ebb would be spent before get out of the sound, we r again a little without the )tuara, to wait for a more opportunity ef putting into While we were unmooring ng under sail. Tomaton- iic, Matahouah, and many the natives, came to take s of us, or rather to obtain, Feb. 1777.] -' if they could, Bome additional present from us before we left them. These two chiefs became suitors to me for some goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two goats, a male and female with kid ; and to Tomatongeauooranuc two pigs, a boar and a sow. Tliey made mo a pro- mise not to kill them, though I must own I put no great faith in tliis. The animals which Captain Furneaux sent on shore here, and wliich .soon after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now told were all dead ; but I Ciiuld get no intelligence about the fate of those I had left in West Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the course of my last voyage. However, all the natives whom 1 con- versed with agreed tliat poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Ship Cove ; and I was after- ward informed, by the two youths who went away with us, that Tiratou, a po[>ular cliief amongst them, had a great many cocks and huns in liis separate possession, and one of the sows. On my present arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not only goats and hogs, but sheep, and a young bull, with two heifers, if I could have found eituer a chief power- ful enough to protect and keep them, or a place where there might be a probability of their being concealed from those who would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. But neither the one nor the other presented itself to me. I could not learn that there remained in our neighbourhood any tribe whose numbers could secure to them a superiority of power over the rest of their countrymen. To have given the animals to any of the na- tives who po.ssessed no such power, would not Lave answered the inten- tion ; for in a country like this, where no man's property is secure, they w ould soon nave fallen a prey to dif- ferent parties, and been cither sepa- rated or killed ; but most likely both. This was so evident, from what we had observed since our arrival, that I had resolved to leave no kind of ani- mal, till Matahouah and the other S3 chief solicited me for the hogs and goats. As I could spare them, I let them go, to take their chance. I have, at different times, left in New Zealand no ] jss than ten or a dozen hogs, besides those put on shore by Captain Furneaux, It will be a little extraordinary, therefore, if this race .should not increa.se and be preserved here, either in a wild or in a domestic state, or in both. We had not been long at anchor near Motuara before three or four canoes iilled with natives came otf to us from the south-east side of the sound, and a brisk trade was carried on with them for the curiosities of this jilace. In one of these canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already mentioned as the leader of the party who cut oif the crew of the Adven« ture's boat. This was the third time he had visited us without betraying the smallest ajipearance of fear. I was ashore when he now amved, but had got on board just as he was going away, Omai, who had returned with me, presently pointed him out and solicited me to shoot him. Not satis- lied with this, he addressed himself to Kahoora, threatening to be his execu- tioner if ever he presumed to visit ua again. The New Zealander paid so little regard to these threats that he returned the next morning with his whole family — men, women, and chil- dren — to the number of twenty and upwards. Omai was tlie first who acquainted me with his being along- side the ship, and desired to know if ho should ask him to come on board. I told him he might ; and accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin, saying, "There is Kahoora; kill him ! " But, as if ho had forgot hia former threats, or were afraid that I should call upon him to perform them, ho immediately retired. In a short time, however, he returned ; and see- ing the chief unhurt, he expostulated with mo very earnestly, saying, "Why do you nci; kill him ? You tell me u a man kills another in England that, he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet you Avill not kill him, though many ni Lis country men 04 desire it, and it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though specious enough, having no weight with me, I desired him to ask the chief why he had killed Captain Furncaux's people. At this question, Kahoora folded his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap ; and I firmly believe ho expected instant death. But no sooner was he assured of his safety than he became cheerful. He did not, however, seem willing to give me an answer to the question that bad been put to him till I had again and again repeated my promise that he should not be hurt. Then he ven- tured to tell us that one of his coun- trymen, having brought a stone hatchet to bai-ter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would neither return it nor give anything for it ; on which the owner of it snatched up the bread as an equiva- lent, and then the quarrel began. The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy affair differed very little from what we had before learned from the rest of his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow escape he had during the fray, a musket being levelled at him, which he avoided by skulking behind the boat, and another man who stood close to him was shot dead. As soon as the musket was discharged, he instantly seized the opportunity to attack Mr Rowe, who commanded the party, and who de- fended himself with his hanger (with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), till he was overpowered by num- bers. Mr Burney, who was sent by Captain Furneauz the next day with an armed party to look for his missing people, upon discovering the horrid proofs of their shocking fate, had fired several volleys amongst the crowds of natives who still remained assembled on the spot, and were, probably, par- taking of the detestable banquet. It was natural to suppose that he had not fired in vain, and that therefore some of the murderers and devourers of our unhappy countrymen had suf- fered under our just resentment. Upon inquiry, however, into this inatter, not only from Kahoora, but COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. I. Ch. VII. from others who had opportunities of knowing, it appeared that our supposition was groundless, and that not one of the shots fired by Mr Burney's people had taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. It was evident that most of the natives we had met with since our arrival, as they knew I was fully ac- quainted with the history of the mas- sacre, expected I should avenge it with the death of Kahoora. And many of them seemed not only to wish it, but expressed their surprise at my forbearance. As he could not be ignorant of this, it was a matter of wonder to me that he put himself so often in my power. When he visited us while the ships lay in the cove, confiding in the number of his friends that accompanied him, he might think himself safe. But his two last visits had been made under such circum- stances that he could no longer rely upon this. We were then at anchor in the entrance of the sound, and at some distance from any shore, so that he could not have any assistance from thence, nor flatter himself he could have the means of making his escape had I determined to detain him. And yet, after his first fears on being in- terrogated were over, he was so far from entertaining any uneasy sensa- tions, that on seeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hanging up in the cabin he desired to have his own por trait drawn, and sat till Mr Webber had finished it without marking the least impatience. I must confess I admired his courage, and was not a little pleased to observe the extent of the confidence he put in me. For he placed hi? whole safety in the declar- ations I had uniformly made to those who solicited his death ; that I had always been a friend to them all, and would continue so, unless they gave me cause to act otherwise ; that as to their inhuman treatment of our people, I should think no more of it, the transaction having happened long ago^ and when I was not present; but that, if ever thev maide a second attempt of that kind, they might Feb. 1777.] TWO YOUTHS EMBARK WITH OMAI. 95 rest assured of feeling the weight of my resentment. For some time before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expressed a desire to take one of the natives with him to his own country. We had not been there many days before he had an opportunity of being gratified in this, for a youth about seventeen or eighteen years of ago, named Ta- weiharooa, offered to accompany him, and took up his residence on board. I paid little attention to this at first, imagining that he would leave us when we were about to depart, and after he had got what he could from Omai. At length, finding that he was fixed in his resolution to go with us, and having learned that ne was the only son of a deceased chief ; and that his mother, still living, was a woman much respected here, I was apprehensive that Omai had deceived him and his friends by giving them hopes and assurances of his being sent back. I therefore caused it to be made known to them all that if the young man went away with us he would never return. But this declar- ation seemed to make no sort of im- {tression. The afternoon before we eft the cove, Tiratoutou, his mother, came on board, to receive her last present from Omai. The same even- ing, she and Taweiharooa parted with All tho mai'ks of tender allection that might be expected between a parent and a child who were never to meet again. But she said she would cry no more ; and, sure enough, she kept her word, for when she returned the next morning to take her last farewell of him, all the time she was on board she remained quite cheerful, and went away wholly unconcerned. That Taweiharooa might be sent away in a manner becoming his birth, another youth was to have gone with him as a servant ; and with this view, as we supposed, he remained on board till we were about to sail, when his friends took bim ashore. However, his place was supplied next morning by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of age, named Kokoa. He was presented to me by his own father, who, I believe, would have parted with his dog with far less in- difference. The veiy little clothing the boy had, he stripped him of, and left him as naked as he was bom. It was to no purpose that I endeavoured to convince these people of the impro- bability, or rather of the impossibility, of these youths ever returning home. Not one, not even their nearest rela- tions, seemed to trouble themselves about their future fate. Since this was the case, and I was well satisfied that the boys would be no loaers by exchange of place, 1 the movi readily gave my consent to their going. ^ BOOK IL FROM LEAVIKO NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITB, OB THE SOOIETT ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. On the 25th, at 10 o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up at NW. by W., we weighed, stood out of the sound, and made sul through the strait, with the Discovery in com- pany. We had hardly got the length of Cape Tierawhitte, when the wind took U8 aback at SE. It continued in this quarter till 2 o'clock the next morning, when we had a few 1 Omission is made of the remain* der of this Chapter, and of Chapter VIII. — the latter entirely written by Mr Anderson — which are occupied with dissertations on the morala^ 96 hours' calm. After which we had a breeze at N. ; but here it fixed not long, before it veered to tlie E., and after that to the S. At lengtli, on the 27th, at 8 o'clock in the morning, we took our departure from Cape Palliser. We had a fine gale, and I steered E. by N. We had no sooner lost sight of the land than our two New Zealand adventurers, the sea sickne^ they now experienced giving a turn to their re- flections, repented heartily of the step they had taken. All the soothing encouragement wo could think of availed but little. They wept, both in public and in private, and made their lamentations in a kind of song, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was expres- sive of tlieir praises of their country and people, from which they were to be separated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till their sea sickness wore off, and the tumult of their minds began to subside. Then these fits of lamentation became less and less frequent, and at length en- tirely ceased. Their native country and their friends were by degrees for- got, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us as if they had been born amongst us. On the 29th [of March], at ten in the COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. Ch. I. We presently found that the island was inhabited, and saw several people on a point of the land wo had passed, wading to the mef, where, as they foimd the ship leaving them quickly, they remained. But others, wlio soon appeared in different parts, followed her course, and sometimes several of them collected into small bodies, who made a shouting noise all together, nearly after the manner of the inha- bitants of New Zealand. Between 7 and 8 o'clock, we were at the WNW. part of the island, and, being near the shore, wo could perceive with our glasses tlat several of the natives, who appeanid upon a sandy beach, were all armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening, or as some on board interpreted their atti- tudes, with invitations to land. Most of them appeared naked, except having a sort of girdle, which, being brought up between the thighs, covered that part of the body. But some of them had pieces of cloth of different colours, white, striped, or chequered, which they wore as a garment, thrown about their shoulders. And almost all of them had a white wrapper about their heads, not much unlike a turban, or, in some instances, like a high conical cap. Wo could also perceive that morning, as we were standing to the NE., the Discovery made the signal of they were of a tawny colour, and in general of a middling stature, but robust, and inclining to corpulence. At this time, a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the farther end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a view to reach the ship. On perceiving this, I brought to, that we might re- seeing land. We saw it from the mast- head almost the same moment, bear- ing NE. by E. by compass. We soon discovered it to be an island of no great extent, and stood for it till sun- set, when it bore NNE., distant about two or three leagues. The night was spent in standing off and on, and at daybreak the next morning I bore up for the lee or west side of the island, as neither anchorage nor landing ap- peared to be practicable on the south side, on account of a great surf which broke everywhere with violence against the shore, or against the reef that sur- rounded it. manners, and customs, &c., &c., of the New Zealanders, but do not in any way relate to the actual transactious of the voyage. ceive the visit ; but the man's resolu- tion failing, he soon returned toward the beach, where, after some time, an- other man joined him in the canoe ; and then they both paddled towards us. They stopped short, however, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheite lan- guage, in some measure quieted their apprehensions. They then came near enough to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood and thrown into the canoe. They AN ISLAND CALLED MANGEEA DISCOVERED. 97 /era, in the same manner as at the other islands of this ocean. It March 1777.] seemed afraid to tonch these things, and put the piece of wood aside with- out untying them. This, liowever, might arise from superstition ; for Ornai told us, that when they s-^w us offering them presents, thev asked something for their " Eatooa, or god. He also, perhaps improperly, put the question to them, "Whether they ever ate human flesh?" which they answered in the negative, with a mix- ture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, wliose name was Mou- rooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an island which lies to the north-east- ward, who sometimes came to invade them. Thejr afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not \ onture on board ; but told Omai, who understood them pretty well, that their countrymen on shore had given them this caution, at the same time directing them to inquire from whence our snip came, and to learn the name of the captain. On our part, we inquired the name of the island, which they called "Mangya" or "Mangeeaj" and sometimes added to it "Nooe, nai, naiwa." The name of their chief, they said, wasOrooaeeka. Mourooa was lusty and well made, but not very tall. His features were agreeable, and his disposition seeming- ly no less so ; for he made several droll gesticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a share of humour. He also made others which seemed of a serious kind, and repeated some words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope at the ship's stem ; which was probably to recommend himself to the protec- tion of some divinity. His colour was nearly of the same cast with that common to the most southern Euro- peans. The other man was not so Iiandsome. Both of them had strong, straight hair, of a jet colour, tied to- gether on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore such girdles as we had perceived about those on shore, and we found they were a sub- stance made from the Moms papjn- ocean. It was glazed like the sort used by the natives of the Friendly Islands ; but the cloth on their heads was white, like that which is found at Otaheite, They had on a kind of sandals, made of a grassy substance interwoven, which we also observed were worn by those who stood upon the beach, and, as we supposed, intended to defend their feet against the rough coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the in- side of their arms, from the shoulder to the elbow, and some other parts, were punctured or tattooed, after the manner of the inhabitants of almost all the other islands in the South Sea. The lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather slit, and to such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads which he had received from us ; and the same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely t^visted, hang- ing about his neck, which was the only ornament we observed. The canoe they came in (which was the only one we saw) was not above ten feet long, and very narrow ; but both strong and neatly made. The fore- part had a flat board fastened over it, and projecting out, to prevent the sea getting in on plunging, like the small "evaas" at Otaheite; but it had an upright stern, about five feet high, like some in New Zealand ; .Jid the upper end of this stern-post was forked. The lower part of the canoe was of white wood, but the upper was black ; and their paddles made of wood of the same colour, not above three feet long, broad at one end, and blunted. They paddled either end of the canoe fonvard indiflerently, and only turned about thf'T faces to paddle the con- trary way. We now stood off and on, and as sooa as the ships were in a proper station, about 10 o'clock I ordered two boats, one of them from the Dis- covery to sound the coast, and to en- deavour to find a landing-place. With this view, I went in one of them my- self, taking with mo such articles to give the natives as I thought mighc O # COOK'S VOYAGES serve to gain their goodwill. I had no sooner put off from the ship than the canoe, with the two men which had left us not long before, paddled towards my boat ; and, having come alongside, Monrooa stepped into her, without being asked, and witliout a moment's hesitation. Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire of him where we could land, and he directed us to two different places. But I saw with regret that tlie at- tempt could not be made at either place, unless at the risk of having our boats filled with water, or even staved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for anchorage, for we could find no bottom till within a cable's length of the breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over sharp coral rocks, so that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger than landing. Thus were we obliged to leave, ixnvisited, this fine island, which seemed capable of supplying all our wants. The natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas in the beauty of their per- sons more than any other nation I have seen in these seas ; havii-g a smooth skin, and not being muscular. Their general disposition also corre- sponds, as far as we had opportunities of judging, with that which distin- guishes the first-mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa showed us, are acquainted with all the lascivious gesticulations which the Otaheiteans practise in their dances. It may also be supposed that their method of living is similar ; for, though the nature of the country pre- vented our seeing many of their habi- tations, we observed one house near the beach, which much resembled > in its mode of construction, those of Otaheite. It was pleasantly situated in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about thirty feet long, and seven or eight high, with an open end, which represented an ellipse divided transversely. BCfore it was spread something white on a few bushes, p^Wch we conjectured to be a fishing- [VoY.m.B.n.CH.ii. net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture. They salute strangers much after the manner of the New Zealanders, by joining noses ; adding, however, the additional ceremony of taking the hand of the person to whom they are paying civilities, and nibbing it with a degree of force upon their nose and mouth. CHAPTER II. AFTEn leaving Mangeea, on the after* noon of the 30th, we continued our course northward all that night, and till noon on the 31st, when we again saw land, in the directic n of NE. by N., distant eight or ten leagues. Next morning at 8 o'clock, we had got abreast of its north end, within four leagues of it, but to leeward, and could now pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extent with that we had so lately left. At the same time, another island, but much smaller, was seen right ahead. We could have soon reached this ; but the largest one had the preference, as most likely to fur- nish a supply of food for the cattle, of which we began to be in great want. With this view I determined to work up to it ; but as there was but little wind, and that little was unfavourable, we were still two leagues to leeward at 8 o'clock the foUomng morning. Soon after, I sent two armed boats from the Resol- ution, and one from the Discovery, the command of Lieutenant to look for annhoring-ground landing-plexje. In the mean- we plied up under the island with the ships. Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single canoes coming from the shore. They went first to the Discovery, she being the nearest ship. It was not long after when three of these canoes cama alongside of the Resolution, each con- ducted by one man. They are long and narrow, and supported by cut- under GorQ, and a time, April 1777.] NATIVES OF WATEEOO. 9tf liggers. This stern is elevated about three or four feet, something like a ship's stern-post. The head is flat above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our visitors, and they gave us a few cocoa- nuts, upon our asking for them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they had re- ceived from us. For they seemed to have no idea of bartering ; nor did they appear to estimate any of our presents at a high rate. With i little persuasion, one of them made his canoe fast to the ship, and came on board, and the other two, encour- aged by his example, soon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their eai.d, and folt no sort of apprehension of our de- taining or using them ill. After their departure, another canoe an-ived, conducted by a man who lOrought a bunch of plantains as a present to me ; asking for me by name, having learned it from Omai, who was sent before us in the boat with Mr Gore. In return for this civility, I gave him an axe, and a piece of red cloth, and he paddled back to the shore well satisfied. I afterward understood from Omai, that this present had been sent from the king, or principal chief, of the island. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward us. As they drew near the ship, they recited some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of their number first standing up, and giving the word before each repeti- tion. "When they had finished their solemn chant, they came alongside, and asked for the chief. As soon as I showed myself, a piff and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the ship ; and the principal person in the canoe made me an additional pre- sent of a piece of matting, as soon as he and his companions got on board. Our visitors wero conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the fihip. Some objects seemed to strike them •vritb a degree of surprise ; but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horses ; nor did they form the least conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of their ideas ; for they gave us to understand that they knew them to be oirds. It will appear rather in- credible that human ignorance could ever make so strange a mistake ; there not being the most distant similitude between a sheep or goat and any winged animal. But these people seemed to know nothing of the existence of any other land- animals besides hogs, dogs, and birds. Our sheep and goats, they could see, were very different creatures from the two first, and therefore they inferred that they must belong to the latter class, in which they knew there is a considerable variety of species. I made a present to my new friend of what I thought might be most ac- ceptable to him ; but, on his ^oing away, he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. I afterward under- stood that he was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this island could not boast, though its inhabitants knew that the race existed in other islands of their ocean- Captain Gierke had received the like- present, with the same view, from another man, who met with from: him the like disappointment. The people in these canoes were inr general of a middling size, and not unlike those of Mangeea ; though several were of a blacker c&st than any we saw there. Their hair was- tied on the crown of the head, or flowing loose upon the shoulders;; and tnough in some it was of a^ frizzling disposition, yet, for the' most part, that, as well as thtv straight sort, was long. Their fea-^ tures were various, and some of the- young men rather handsome. Like those of Mangeea, they had girdles- of glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends of which, being brought betwixt their thighs, covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments composea of a- sort of brood grass, stained with red^ 100 COOK'S VOYAGES, and strung with berries of the night- ehade, were worn about their necks. Their ears wera bored, but not slit ; and they were punctured upon the legs, from the knee to the heel, which made them appear as if they wore a kind of boot"?. They also resembled the inhabitants of Mangcea in the length of their beards, and like them wore a sort of sandals upon their feet. Their behaviour was frank and cheer- ful, with a great deal of good-nature. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, Mr Gore returned with the boat, and in- formed me that he had examined all the west side of the island, without finding a place where a boat could land or the ships could anchor, the shore being everywhere bounded by a steep coral rock, against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. But as the natives seemed very friendly, and to express a degree of disappointment when they saw that our people failed in their attempts to land, Mr Gore was of opinion that, by means of Omai, who could best explain our request, they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the surf, such articles as we most wanted ; in particular, the stems of plantain trees, which make good food for the cattle. Having little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was not of any moment ; and therefore I determined to try the experiment, and got every- thing ready against the next morning. Soon after daybreak, we ob.%erved some canoes coming off to the ships, and one of them directed its course to tiic Resolution. In it was a hog, with some plantains and cocoa-nuts, for which the people who brought them demanded a dog from us, and refused every other thing that we offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board happened to have a dog and a bitch, which were great nuisances in the ship, and might have been disposed of on this occasion for a purpose of real utility, by pro- pagating a race of so useful an animal in this island. But their owner had no such views in making them the companiona of his voyage. How- eVBT, to gratify these people, Omai [VoT.m.B.n.Cn.lI. parted with a favourite dog he had brought from England ; and with this acquisition they departed highly satisfied. About 10 o'clock, I des- patched Mr Gore with three boats, two from the Eesolution and one from the Discovery, to try the ex- feriment he had proposed. And, as could confide in his diligence and ability, I left it entirely to him- self to act as from circumstances he should judge to be most proper. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an in- terpreter. The ships being a full league from the island when the boats put off, and having but little wind, it was noon before we could work up to it. We then saw our three boats riding at their grapplings, just without the surf, and a prodig- ious number of the natives on the shore abreast of them. By this we concluded, that Mr Gore, and others of our people, had landed ; and our impatience to know the event may be easily conceived. In order to observe their motions, and to be ready to give them such assistance as they might want and our respective situa- tions would admit of, I kept as near the shore as was prudent. I was sensible, however, that the reef was as effectual a barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and put them as much bej'ond the reach of our protection, as if half the circum- ference of the globe had intervened ; but the islanders, it was probable, did not know this so well as we did. Some of them, now and then, came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, which they ex- changed for whatever was offered to them, without seeming to give the preference to any particular article. These occasional visits served to lessen my solicitude about our people who had landed. Though we could get no information from our visitors, yet their venturing on board seemed to imply, at least, that their country- men on shore had not made an impro- per use of the confidence put in them. At length, a little hofora sunset^ tto ArniLl777.] INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES, 101 had the satisfaction of seeinp; tlie boats put off. When thoy cot on board, I found that Mr Gore himself, Oinai, Mr Anderson, and Mr Bumey, were the only persons who had landed. The transactions of the day were now fully reported to me by Mr Gore ; but Mr Anderson's account of them being very particular, and including some romarks on the island and its inhabit- ants, I shall give it a place here, nearly in his own words. " We rowed toward a small sandy beach, upon which, and upon the ad- jacent rocks, a great number of the natives had assembled, and came to an anchor within 100 yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little farther, from the shore. Several of the natives swam off, bring- ing cocoa-nuts ; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with us in the boats, made them sensible of our wish to land. But their attention was taken up for a little time by the dog, which had been carried from the ship, and was just brought on shore, round whom they flocked with great eager- ness. Soon after, two canoes came oft"; and, to create a greater confid- ence in the islanders, we determined to go unarmed and run the hazard of being treated well or ill. "Mr Burney, the first lieutenant of the Discovery, and I, went in one canoe a little time before the other ; and our conductors, watching atten- tively the motions of the surf, landed us suely upon the reef. An islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an intention to support us in walking over the rugged rocks to the beach, where several of the others met us, holding the green boughs of a [species of mimosa in their hands, and saluted us by applying their noses to ours. ' ' We were conducted from the beach by our guides amidst a great crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiosity to look at us, and would have prevented our proceeding had not some men, who seemed to have au- thority, dealt blows with little dis- tinction amongst them to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms, and soon came to a number of men arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on their shoulders much in the man- ner we rest a musket. After walkin a little way amongst these, we foun a person who seemed a chief sitting on the ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of triangular fan made from a leaf of the cocoa- palm, with a polished handle of black wood fixed to one corner. In his ears were lar^o bunches of beautiful red feathers which pointed forward. But be had no other mark or ornament to distin- guish him from the rest of the pcop]:?, though they all obeyed him with the greatest alacrity. Ho either natur- ally had, or at this time put on, a serious but not severe countenance ; and we were desired to salute him as he sat by some people who seemed of consequence. '• We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs, and cn-ne to a second chief, who sat fanning himself, and ornamented as the first. He was remarkable for his size and uncommon corpulence, though, to appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the same manner we were conducted to a third chief, who seemed older than the two former ; and though not so fat as the second, was of a large size. He also was sitting, and adorned with red feathers ; and after saluting him as we had done the others, he desired us both to sit down, which we were very willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the excessive heat we felt amongst the vast crowd that surrounded us. " In a few minutes the peo^ d were ordered to septirate ; and we saw, at the distance of thirty yards, about twenty young women ornamented as the cliiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they perfomr d to a slow and serious air sung by them all. We got up and went forward to see them, and though we must have been strange objects to them, they continued their dance without pay* iug the least attention to us. They seemed to be directed by a man who served as a prompter, and mentioned PROVINCIAL LIBRARY VICTORIA, B. C. 134751 102 «ach motion they were to make. But tliejr never changed the spot, as we do in dancing ; and though their feet were not at rest, this exercise con- sisted more in moving the fingers very nimbly, at the same time hold- ing their hands in a prone position near the face, and now and then also clapping them together. Their mo- tions and song were performed in such exact concert that it should seem they had been taught with great care ; and probably they were selected for this ceremony, as few of those whom we saw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they were rather stout than slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were rather fuller than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much alike ; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance expressed a degree of complacency and modesty peculiar to the sex in every part of the world, but perhaps more conspi- cuous here where Nature presented us with her productions in the fulle^it perfection, unbiassed in sentiment by custom, or unrestrained in manner by art. Their shape and limbs were ele- gantly formed ; for, as their dress con* sisted only of a piece of glazed cloth fastened about the waist, and scarcely reaching so low as the knees, in many we had an opportunity of ob- serving every port. This dance was not finished when we heard a noise as if some horses had been galloping to- ward us, and, on looking aside, we saw the people armed with clubs, who had been desired, as wo supposed, to entertain us with the sight of their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party pursuing another who fled. " As we supposed the ceremony of being introduced to tho chiefs was at an end, we began to look about for Mr Gore and Omai ; and, though the crowd would hardly sufler us to move, we at len^h found them coming up, as much incommoded by the number of peoplo as we had been, and intro- duced in the same manner to the thiee chiefs, whose names wer9 Otteroo, COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. Cn. II. Taroa, and Fatouweero. Each of these expected a present, and Mr Gore gave them such things as he had brought with him from the ship for that purpose. After this, making use of Omai as his interpreter, ho in- formed the chiefs with what intention we had come on shore ; but was given to understand that he must wait till the next day, and then he should have what was wanted. •' They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each other, and every one of us had his circle to surround and gaze at him. For my own pai't, I was at one time above an hour apart from niv friends ; and when I told the chief with whom I sat that I wanted to speak to 0.nai, he i)er- emptorily refused my request. At the same time, I found the people began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket ; and when I took the liberty of complaining to the chief of this treatment, he justified it From these circumstances, I now entertained apprehensions that they might have formed the design of de- taining us amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a disposi- tion so savage as to make us anxious for the safety of our persons ; but it was nevertb aless vexing to think we had hazarded being detained by their curiosity. In this situation, 1 asked for something to eat, and they readily brought to me some cocoa-nuts, bread- fruit, and a sort of sour pudding, which was presented by a woman. And on my complaining much of the heat, occasioned by the crowd, the chief himself condescended to iian me, and gave mo a small piece of cloth which he had round his waist. " Mr Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my suspicions to him ; and, to put it to the test whether they were well founded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were stopped when al'Ut half way by some men, who told us that we must go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the same apprehensions. But he h(^, u he fancied, an additional reason Sqt ApniLl777.] DETENTION BY being afraid, for he had observed that tliey had du^ a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heat- ing ; and he could assign no other reason for this than that they meant to roost and cat us, as is practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to ank them the question, at which thoy were greatly surprised, asking in return wnether that was a custom with us. Mr Bur- noyand I were rather angry that they should be thus uuspected by him, tliore having as yet been no appear- ances in their conduct toward us of their being capable of such brutality. " In this manner we were detained the greatest part of the day, being sometimes together, and sometimes separated, but always in a crowd, who, not satisfied with gazing at us, frequently desired ua to uncover parts of our skm ; the sight of which com- monly produced a f - 1 murmur of admiration. At the same time, tboy did not on' these opportunities of rifling our pockets ; and, at last, one of them snatched a small bayonet from Mr Gore, which hung in its sheath by his side. This was repre- sented to the chief, who pretended to send some person in search of it. But, in all probability, he counten- anced the theft ; for, soon after, Omai had a dagger stolen from his side in the same manner, though he did not miss it immediately. "Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or that they vol- untarily repeated their emblems of friendship when we expressed a de- sire to go, I cannot tell ; but, at this time, they brought some green boughs, and, sticking their ends in the ground, desired we miglit hold them as we sat. Upon our urging again the busi- ness we came upon, they gave us to understand that we must stay and eat with them ; and a pig which we saw, soon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehensions of be- in? put into it himself, and made us thiuK it might be inteudod for our repast. The chief also promised to send some people to procure food for THE NATIVES. 108 the cattle ; but it was not till pretty late in the afternoon that we saw them return witli a few plantail, trees, which they carried to our boats. " In the meontime, Mr Burney and I attempted again to go to the beach j; but, when we arrived, found ouraelves watched by people who, to appear- ance, had been placed there for this j)urp08e. For when I tried to wade m upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes and dragged ma back. I picked up some smEill pieces of coral, which they required me to throw down again ; and, on my re- fusal, they mode no scrupl') to take them forcibly frnm me. x ' id gathered some small plants, but ^ .,o also I could not be permitted to re- tain. And they took a fan fiom Mr Burney, which he had n « /ed au a present on coming ashore. Oj" made of a hard black wood, lance- shap^d at the end, but much broader, with the edge niceljr scolloped, and the whole neatly polished. Others of them were narrower at th<^ point, much shorter, and plain ; and some were even so small as to be used with one hand. The spears were made of the same wood, simply pointed, and, in general, above twelve feet long ; though some were so short that they seemed intended to be thrown as darts. "The place where we were all the day was under the shade of various trees ; in which they preserved their canoes from the sun. About eight or ten of them were here, all double ones ; that is, two single ones fastened together (as is usual throughout the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean), by rafters lashed across. They were about twenty feet long, about four feet deep, and the sides rounded, with a plank raised upon them, wliich was fastened strongly by means of withes. Two of these canoes were most curi- ously stained or painted all over with black, in numberless small figures, as squares, triangles, &c., and excelled by far anything of that kind I had ever seen at any other island in this ocean. Our friends here, indeed, seemed to have exerted more skill in doing this,-than in puncturing their own bodies. The paddles were about four feet long, nearly elliptical, bnt broader at the upper end than the middle. Near the same place was a hut or shed about thirty feet long and nine or ten high, in which, perhaps, these boats are built ; but, at this time, it was empty. " Though the landing of our gentle- men proved the means of enriching my journal with the foregoing parti- culars, the principal object I had in view was, in a great measure, un at- tained ; for the day was spent without getting any one thing from the island worth mentioning. The natives, how- ever, were gratified with a sight they never before had, and, probably, will never have ogain. And mere curi- osity seeius to have been their chief motive for keeping the gentlemen under such restraint, and for using every art to prolong their continuance amongst them. It has been mentioned, that Omai was sent upon this expedition ; and, perhaps, his being Mr Gore's inter- preter was not the only service be 106 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. Ch. II. perfonaed this day. He was asked by the natives a great many questions conceVning us, our ships, our country, and the sort of arms we used ; and, according to the account he gave mo, his answers were not a little upon the marvellous. As, for instance, he told them, that our country had ships as large as their island, on board which were instruments of war (describing our guns), of such dimensions, that several people might sit within them ; and that one of them was suffi- cient to crush the whole island at one shot. This led them to inquire of him what sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He said that though they were but small in com- parison with those he had just de- scribed, yet, with such as they were, we could with the greatest ease, and at the distance the ships were from the shore, destroy the island and kill every soul in it. They persevered in their inquiries, to kuow by what means this could be done ; and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket These he produced ; the balls, and the gun- powder which was to set them in motion, were submitted to inspection : and, to supply the defects of his de- scription, an appeal was made to the senses of the spectators. It has been mentioned above, that one of the chiefs had ordered the multitude to form themselves into a circle. This furnished Omai with a convenient .stage for his exhibition. In the centre of this amphitheatre, the in- considerable quantity of gunpowder collected from his cartridges was pro- perly disposed upon the ground, and, by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven where dinner was dress- ing, set on fire. The sudden blast and loud report, the mingled flame and smoke, that instantly succeeded, now filled the whole assembly with aston- ishment : they no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai had said. If it had not been for the terrible Ideas they conceived of the euna of onr ships from this s^cimen of their mode of operation, it was thought that they would have detained the gentlemen all night. For Omai as* sured them, that, if he and his com- panions did not return on board the same day, they might expect that I would fire upon the island. And as we stood in nearer the land in the evening than we had done any time before, of which position of the ships they were observed to take great notice, they probably thought we were medi- tating this formidable attack, and, therefore, suffered their guests to de- part ; under the expectation, however, of seeing them again on shore next morning. But I was too sensible of the risk they had already run to think of a repetition of the experiment. This day, it seems, was destined to give Omai more occasions than one of being brought forward to bear a prin- cipal part in its transactions. The island, though never before visited by Europeans, actually happened to have other strangers residing in it ; and it was 'entirely owing to Omai's being one of Mr Gore's attendants, that this curious circumstance came to our knowledge. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found amongst the crowd there assembled three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. At the dis» tance of about 200 leagues from those islands, an immense unknown ocean intervening, with such wretched sea- boats as their inhabitants are known to make use of, fit only for a passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, so accidentally visited by us, may well be looked upon as one of those unexpected situations with which the writers of feigned adventures love to surprise their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, deserve to be recorded for their singularity. It may easily be guessed, with what mutual surprise and satisfaction Omai and his countrymen engaged in con- versation. Their story, as related by them, is an affecting one. About twenty persons in number of both April 1777.] gezes, had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neigh- bouring island Uliatoa. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their intended pass- age being a very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty and soon ex- hausted. The hardships they sufifered, while driven along by the storm they knew not whither, are not to be con- ceived. They passed many days with- out having anything to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminished, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four men only survived when the canoe overset ; and then the perdition of this small remnant seemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the side of their vessel during some of the last days, till Providence broup;ht them in sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes, took them off their wreck, and brought them ashore. Of the four who were thus saved, one was since dead. The other three, who lived to have this opportunity of giv- ing an account of their almost mira- culous transplantation, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with. And so well satisfied were they with their situation, that they refused the offer made to them by our gentle- men, at Omai's request, of giving them a passage on board our ships, to re- store them to their native islands. The similarity of manners and lan- guage had more than naturalised them to this spot ; and the fresh connec- tions which they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off afler such a length of time, sufficiently account for their declining to revisit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this island at least twelve years ago. For I learned from Mr Anderson that he found they knew nothinaj of Captain Wallis's visit to Otaheite in 1765, nor of several other memorable c- currences, such as the conquest of Uliotea, by those of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the Euro- peans, To Mr Anderson I am also indebted for their names, Orououte, DISASTROUS CANOE VOYAGE. 107 Otirreroa, and Tayee : the first, bom at Matavai in Otaheite ; the second, at Ulietea ; and the third, at Huaheine. The landing of our gentlemen on this isiland, though they failed in the object of it, cannot but be considered as a very fortunate circumstance. It has proved, as we have seen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a matter of fact not only very curious, but very instructive. The applica- tion of the above narrative is obvious. It will serve to explain, better than a thousand conjectures of speculative reasoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, may have been first peopled ; especially those that lie remoto from any inhabited continent, or from each other. This island is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the Latitude of 20* 1' S., and in the Longitude of 201° 45' E., and is about six leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful spot, with a surface composed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. [Having failed in obtaining some effectual supply at Wateeoo, Captain Cook steered for the smaller neigh- bouring island previously observed, where his boats' crews succeeded in procuring about 100 cocoa-nuts for each sliip, with a quantity of grass and leaves and branches of young cocoa-trees, &c., for the cattle. The island, which was only about three miles in circumference, and uninha- bited, was called, by the natives of Wateeoo, generally Otakootaia, but sometimes wenooa-ette, which signi- fies "little island." The navigators then steered northward for Harvey's Island, which had been discovered in 1773, during Cook's second voyage.] CHAPTER IIL As we drew near it, at 8 o'clock [on the morning of the 6th Aprilj, we ob- served several canops vr ' off irom the shore ; and they catr"* directly toward the ships. This was a sight that. 108 indeed, surprised me, as no signs of inhabitants were seen when the island was first discovered, which might be owing to a pretty brisk wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes venturing out, as the ships passed to leeward, whereas now we were to wind- ward. As we still kept on toward the island, six or seven of the canoe?, all double ones, soon came near us. There were fi^m three to six men in each of them. They stopped at the dis- tance of about a stone's throw from the ship, and it was some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come alongside ; but no entreaties could in- duce any of them to venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamor- ous behaviour by no means indicated a disposition to trust us, or treat us well. We afterward learned that they had attempted to ' ake some oars out of the Discovery's boat that lay along- side, and struck a man who endea- voured to prevent them. They also cut away, with a shell; a net with meat which hung over that ship's stem, and absolutely refused to restore it, though we afterwards purchased it from them. Those who were about our ship behaved in the same daring manner ; for they made a sort of hook of a long stick, with which they en- deavoured openly to rob us of several things ; and at last actually got a frock belonging to one of our people, that was towing overboard. At the same time, they immediately showed a knowledge of bartering, and sold some fish they had (amongst which was an extraordinary flounder, spotted like porphyry, and a cream-coloured eel, spotted with black), for small nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them "goore." But, in- deed, they caught, with the greatest avidity, bits of paper or anything else that was thrown to them ; and if what was thrown fell into the sea they made no scruple to s. vim after it. These people seemed to differ as much in person as in disposition from the natives of Wateeoo, though the dis- tance between the two islands is not very great Their colour was of a deeper cast ; and several had a fiorc^ COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. II. Ch. IIL nigged aspect resembling the natives of New Zealand ; but some were fairer. They had strong' black hair, which in general they wore either hanging loose about the shoulders, or tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Some, however, had it cropped pretty short ; and in two or three of them it was of a brown or reddish colour. Their only covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt several times round the lower part of the body, and which passed between the thighs; but a fine cap of red feathers was seen lying in one of the canoes. The shell of a pearl oyster polished, and huug about the neck, was the only ornamental fashion that we observed amongst them ; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this ocean, of puncturing or tattooing their bodies. [Lieutenant King was sent, with two armed boats, to search for a suitable anchoring-ground or landing-place ; but ho returned with a completely un- fr • curable report, and further stated, tiiat decided manifestations of hostility had been uade by the natives. Cap- tain Cook, therefore, thought it pru- dent to run no risks for the uncertain chance of finding the grass and water of which the ships were in need.] Being thus disappointed at all the islands we had met with since our leaving New Zealand, and the un- favourable winds and other unfore- seen circumstances having unavoid- ably retarded our progress so much, it was now impossible to think of doing anything this year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which we were still at so great a distance, though the season for our ope- rations there was already begun. In this situation it was absolutely neces- sary to pursue such measures as were most likely to preserve the cattle we had on board, in the first place ; and, in the next place (which was still a more capital object), to save the stoi'es and provisions of tlie ships that we might be better enabled to prosecute our northern discoveries, which could not now commence till a year later ArRiL 1777.3 palmerston's island. 109 than was originally intended. If I had been so fortunate as to have pro- cured a supply of water and of grass at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my purpose to have stood back to the south till I had met with a westerly wind. But the cer- tain consequence of doing this with- out such a supply would have been the loss of all the cattle befo^ye we could possibly reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage with regard to the great object of our voyage. I therefore determined to bear away for the Friendly Islands, where I was sure of meeting with abundance of everything I wanted ; and it being necessary to run in the night as well as in the day, 1 ordered Captain Olerko to keep about a league ahead of the Resolution. I used this pre- caution, because his ship could best claw off the land, and it was very, possible we might fall in with some in our passage. At daybreak in the morning of the 13th, we saw Palmerston Islaud, bear- ing W. by S., distant about five leagues. However, we did not get up with it till 8 o'clock the next morning. I then sent four boats, three from the Resolution and one from the Discovery, with an officer in each, to search the coast for the most convenient landing-place. For now we were under an absolute necessity of procuring from this island some food for the cattle, otherwise we must have lost them. What is compre- hended under the name of Palmerston's Island is a group of small islets, of which there are, in the whole, nine or ten, lying in a circular direction, and connected tngretner by a' reef of coral rocks. 1... joats first examined the Bouth-easterumost of the islets which compose this groT'p ; and, fail- ing there, ran down to the second, whore we had the satisfaction to see them land. I then bore down with the ships till abreast of the place, and there we kept standing off and on. For no bottom was to be found to anchor upon, which was not of much consequence, as the party who had landed ^'rom our boats were the only human beings upon the island. There were no traces of inhabitants bavins ever been here, if we except a smaU piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which probably may have drifted from some other island. But, what is pretty extraordinary, we saw several small brown rats on this spot, a circumstance, perhaps, difiicult to account for, unless we allow that they were imported in the canoe of which we saw the remains. After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leav- ing Mr Gore with a party to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morning. [The next three days were spent in provisioning the ships from this and other islets of the group, where cocoa-trees and vegetation suitable for feeding the cattle abounded, but where water was not to be found — the islets being merely the heads or sum- mits of coral rock. Twelve hundred cocoa-nuts were shipped and equally divided amon^ the wliole crew, while the fish and birds, which were caiight in abundance, afforded a salutary and welcome relief from the monotony of ship-fare.] After leaving Palmerston's Island I steered W. with a view to make the best of my way to Annamooka. We still continued to have variable winds, frequently between the N. and W., with squalls, some thunder, and much rain. During these showers, which were generally very copious, we saved a considerable quantity of water ; and finding that we could get a greater supply by the rain in one hour than we could get by distillation in a month, I laid aside the still as a thing attended with more trouble than profit. The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more dis- agreeable in this close rainy weather ; and, from the moisture attending it, threatened soon to be noxious, as the ships could not be kept dry, nor tho scuttles open, for the sea. However, it is remarkable enough that though the only refreshment we had received since leaving the Cape of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, thei-e waa not as yet a single person on board no OOOgS VOYAOES. [ Voy. 111. B. 11. C i IV. sick, from the oonatant use at salt food or vicissitude of climate. [Savage Island, which Cook had discovered in 1774, was passed in the night between the 24th and 25th of April ; on the 28th, in the afternoon, Annamooka was sighted ; but as night drew on, and the weather was squally and rainy, anchor was cast two leagues from the neighbouring isle of Kom- anga] CHAPTER 17. Soon after we had anchored, two canoes, the one with four and the other with three men, paddled to- ward us, and came alongside without the least hesitation. They brought some cocoa-nuts, bread-fmit, plan- tains, and sugar-cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of the men came on board ; and when these canoes had left us, another visited us, but did not stay long, as night was approaching. Kom- ango, the island nearest to us, was at least five miles off, which shows the hazard these people would run in order to possess a few of our most trifling articles. Besides this sup- ply from the shore, we caught this evening, with hooks and lines, a con- siderable quantity of fish. Next morning at 4 o'clock I sent Lieuten- ant King with two boats to Komango to procure refreshments, and at five made the signal to weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at NW. It waa no sooner daylight than we were visited by six or seven canoes from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce ; such as pieces of their cloth, fish- hooks, small baskets, musical reeds, and some clubs, spears, and bows. But I ordered that no curiosities should be purchased till the ships should be supplied with provisions, and leave given for that purpose. Knowing, also, from experience, that if all our people might trade with the natives according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would en- sue, I ordered that particular persons should manage the traffic both on board and on shore, prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day Mr King's boat returned with seven ho^s, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for ourselves, and some grass for the cattle. His party waa very civilly treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous ; and their huts, which stood close to each other, Avitbin a plantain walk, were but indifferent. Not far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh water, tolerably good ; but there was not any appearance nt' a stream. With Mr King came on board the chief of the island, named Tooboulangee, and another whose name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog as a present to me, and promised more the next day. As soon as the boats were aboard, I stood for Annamooka ; and the wind being scant, I intended to go between Annamooka-ette,^ and the breakers to the SE. of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very irre- gular soundings, varying, every cast, ten or twelve fathoms. 'I'his obliged me to give up the design, and to go to the southward of all ; which carried us to leeward, and made it necessary to spend the night under sail. It was verjr dark, and we had the wind from evfjry direction, accompanied with heiivy showers of rain. So that, at daylight the next morning, we found ourselves much farther off than we had been the evening before ; and the little wind that now blew was right in our teeth. We continued to ply all day to very little purpose, and in the evening anchored. Tooboulangee and Taipa kept their promise, and brought off to me some hogs. Several others were also procured by bartering from ditlerent canoes that followed us, and ^ That is, Little Annamooka. Mat 1777.3 TRANSACtlOIfS AT AiTi^AMOOEA. Ill us much £ruit at) we could well man- age. It was remarkable that during the whole day our visitors from the islands would hardly part «rith any of their commodities to anybody but me. Captain Gierke did not get above one or two hogs. At 4 o'clock next morning I ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and sent the master tc sound the SW. side of Annamooka. In the mean- time the ships were got under sail, and wrought up to the island. When the master returned, he reported that he had sounded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms' depth of water, the bottom coral sand; that the place was very well sheltered from all winds ; but that there was no fresh water to be found, except at some distance inland, and even there little of it was to be got, and that little not good. For this reason only, and it was a very sufficient one, I determined to anchor on the north side of the island, where, during my last voyage, I had found a ^>lace fit both for watering and landing. It was not above a league distant, and yet we did not reach it till 5 o'clock in the afternoon, being considerably retarded by the great number of canoes that continually cro\. ded round the ships, bringing to us abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Amongst these canoes there were some double ones, with a large sail, that carried between forty and fifty men each. These sailed round us, apparently with the same ease as if we had been at anchor. There were several women in the canoed, who were, perhaps, incited by curi- osity to visit us ; though, at the same time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and used the paddle with equal labour and dexterity. I came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the bottom coarse coral sand ; the island extending from E, to SW., and the W. point of the westernmost cove SE., about three-quarters of a mile distant. Thus I resumed the very eame station which I had occupied when I visited Annamooka three years before ; and, probably, almost m the same place where Tasman, the first discoverer of this and some of the neighbouring islands, anchored in 1643.1 Finding that we had quite ex- hausted the island of almost every article of food that it afforded, I em- ployed the 11th in moving off from the shore the horses, observatories, and other things that we had landed, as also the party of marines who had mounted guard at our station, intend- ing to sail as ~oon as the Discovery should have rec rered her best bower anchor. The 12th and the 13th were spent in attempting the recovery of Captain Gierke's anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily accom- plished ; and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under sail and left Annamooka. To the north and north-east of Annamooka, and in the direct tract to Hapaee, whither we were now bound, the sea is sprinkled with a great number of small isles. Amidst the shoals and rocks adjoining to this group, I could not be assured that there was a free or safe passage for such large ships as ours ; though the natives sailed through the inter- vals in their canoes. For this sub- stnntial reason, when we weighed aT jr from Annamooka I thought it necessary co go to the westward of the above islands, and steered NNW. toward Kao and I'oofoa, the two most westerly islands in sight, and remark- able for their great height. Feenou and his attendants remained on board the Rcsol'ition till near noon, when he went into the large sailing canoe which bad brought him from Tonga- taboo, and stood in amongst the clus- * Captain Cook, accompanied by Captain Gierke, went ashore here to fix a place for their observatories, when Loobu, the chief of the island, showed them every attention and civility. On the 6th they were visited by a chief from Tcngataboo, whose name was Feenon, who was fond of associating with them, and who v^h^a dined on board. 112 ter of islands above mentioned, of which we were now almost abreast ; and a tide or current from the west- ward had set us, since our sailing in the morning, much over toward them. They lie scattered at unequal distances, and are, in general, nearly as high as Annamooka ; but only from two or three miles to half-a- mile in length, and some of them scarcely so much. They have either steep rocky shores, like Annamooka, or reddish cliffs ; but some have sandy beaches extending almost their whole length. Most of them are entirely clothed with trees, amongst which are many cocoa-palms ; and each forms a prospect like a beautiful garden placed in the sea. To heighten this, the serene weather we now had contributed very much ; and the whole mi^ht supply the imagination with an idea oi some fairy -land realised. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, being the length of Kotoo, the westernmost of the above cluster of small islands, we steered to the north, leaving Toofoa and Kao i our larboard, keeping along the west side of a reef of rocks which lie to the westward of Kotoo, till we came to their northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the island. It was our intention to have anchored for the night ; but it came upon us before we could find a place in less than fifty-five fathoms water ; and rather than come to in this depth I chose to spend the night under sail. We had in the afternoon been within two leagues of Toofoa, the smoke of whirh we saw several times in the day. The Friendly Islanders have some superstitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call "KoUofeea," and Bay it is an "Otooa," or divinity. According to their account, it some- times throws up very large stones; and they compare the crater to the size ol a small islet, which has never ceased smoking in their memory; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We sometimes saw the smoke rising from the centre of the v))and, while we were at Annamooka, though at tho dis*«ice of at least ten COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. 11. Ch. IV. leagues. Toofoa, we were told, is but thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good. At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a vast rock of a conic figure, we steered to tho east, for the passage between the islands Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at SE. About 10 o'clock Feenou came on board, and remained with us all day. He brought with him two hogs and a quantity of fruit ; and, in the course of the day, several canoes, from the different islands round us, came to barter quantities of the latter article, which was very acceptable, as our stock was nearly expended. After passing Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks ; and, as there was but little wind, it cost us some trouble to keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a small low isle, in the direction of ENE. from Footooha, at the distance of seven or eight miles. Being past the reef of rocks just mentioned, we hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding anchorage; but wero again disappointed, and obliged to spend the night, making short boards.^ For, although we had land in every direction, the sea was unfathomable. In the course of this night we could plainly see flames issuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height. At daybreak in the morning of the 16th, with a gentle breeze at SE., we steered NE. for Hapaee, which was now in sight; and we could judge it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above the water. About 9 o'clock we could see it plainly, forming three islands, nearly of an equal size ; and soon after, « fourth to the southward of these, at large as the others. Each seemed t( be about six or seven miles long, anr of a similar height and appearance. The northernmost of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the southernmost Hoo* loiva ; but all four are included by 1 Taoki. May 1777.] the natives under the general name Hapaee. The wind scanting upon us, we could not fetch the land ; so that we were forced to ply to windward. In doing this, we once passed over some coral rocks on which we had only six fathoms water ; but the moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. We got up with the noi'themmost of these isles by sunset ; and there found ourselves in the very same dis- tress, for want of anchorage, that we had experienced the two preceding evenings ; so that we haa another night to spend under sail, with land and breakers in every direction. To- wards the evening Feenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hapaee, and took Omai in the canoe with him. He did not forget our disagreeable situation, and kept up a good fire all night by way of a land-mark. As soon as the daylight returned, being then close in with Foa, we saw it was joined to Haanno by a reef running even with the sur- face of the sea from the one island to the other. I now despatched a boat to look for anchorage. A proper place was soon found, and we came to abreast of a reef, being that which joins Lefooga to Foa (in the same manner that Foa isjoined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms' depth Of water. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient land- ing at all times ; and we were not above three-quarters of a mile from the shore. RECEPTION AT HAPAEE. 118 CHAPTER V. By the time we had anchored, the ships were filled with the natives, ana surrounded by a multitude of canoes filled also with them. They brought from the shore hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they ex- changed for hatcliets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to tho people of the island, I soon ac- companied them on shore for that Eurpose, landing at the north part of lefooga, a little to the right of the ships' station. . Tlie chief conducted me to a house, or rather a hut, situated close to the sea-beach, which I had seen brought thither but a few minutes before for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai, and myself, were seated. The other chiefs and the multitude composed a circle on the outside, frontmg us, and they also sat down. I was then asked, " How long I intended to stay ? " On my saying, *' Five days, " Taipa was ordered to come and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then harangued them, in a speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The pur- port of it, as I learned from Omai, was that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days ; that, during my stay, they must not stea* anything, nor molest me any oth^/ way ; and that it was expected t'ley should bring hogs, fowls, fruiS &c., to the ships, where they wouJl receive in exchange for them sue a and such things which he enumer.ced. Soon after Taipa had finished this address to the assembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me, that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this ; and gave him such articles as far exceeded bis expectation. My liberality to him brought upon me demands of the same kind from two chiefs of other isles who were present and from Taipa himself. When Fee- nou returned, which was immediately after I had made the last of these presents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering me to give away so much ; but I looked upon this as a mere finesse, being confident that he acted in concert with the others. He now took his seat again and ordered Earoupa to sit by him and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and to the same purpose ; dictating as before, the heads of fJie speecL lU COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. Ch. V. These ceromouics being performed, the chief, at my request, conducted me to thjee stagnant pools of fresh water, as he was pleased to call it ; and, indeed, in one of these the water was tolerable, and the situation not inconvenient for filling our casks. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former station, where I found a baked hog and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be earned on board for my dinner. I invited Feenou and his friends to partake of it, and we embarked for the ship ; but none but himself sat down with us at the table. After dinner I con- ducted them on shore ; and before I returned on board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle and a quantity of yams. Our supply of provisions was copious, for in the course of the day we got, by barter alongside the ship, about twenty small hogs, besides fmit and roots. I waa told that on first landing my man came ordered go on shore. off every morning, a in the to the ships, and one of the natives to Probably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants present at the ceremony of my reception ; for when that was over, multitudes of them re- turned again to the ships. Next morning early, Feenou and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit was to require my presence upon the island. After some time I accom- panied them, and, upon landing, waa conducted to the same place where I had been seated the day be- fore, where I saw a large concourse of people already assembled. I guessed that something more than ordinary was in agitation, but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. I had not been long seated, before near a hundred of the natives appeared in sight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa- nuts, and sugar-canes. They depos- ited their burdens in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the side they came from. Soon aJfter arrived s uumber of otheM from the right, bearing the same kind of articles ; which were collected into two piles upon that side. To these were tied two pigs and six fowls ; and to those upon the left, six pigs and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself be- fore the several articles upon the left, and another chief before those upon the right ; .they being, as I judged, the two chiefs who had collected them by order of Feenou, who seemed to be as implicitly obeyed here as he had been at Annamooka, and, in consequence of his commanding supe- riority over the chiefs of Hapace, had laid this tax upon them for the present occasion. As soon as this munificent collec- tion of provisions was laid down in order, and disposed to the best ad- vantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after, a number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about for a few minutes, and then retired, the one half to one side, and the other half to the other side ; seating themselves before the spectators. Soon after, they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with single combats. One champion, ris- ing up and stepping forward from Qne side, challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures more than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the ch^dlenge was accepted, which was generally the case, the combatants put themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor squatted himself doM'n facing the chie^ then rose up and retired. At the same time, some old men, wh6 seemed to sit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words, and the mul- titude, especially those on the side to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired, in two or three hnzzas. May 1777.] WRESTLING AND This entertainment was, now and then, Busnotided for a few minutes. During tueso intervals there were both wrestling and boxing matches. The first were performed in the same manner as at Otaheito; and the second differed very little from the method practised in England. But what struck us with most surprise was to SCO a couple of lusty wenches step forth and begin boxing without the least ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This contest, how- ever, did not last above half-a-minute before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same applause Irom the spectators which they bestowed upon the successful combatants of the other sex. "We expressed some dislike at this part of the entertainment; which, however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lists. They seemed to be girls of spirit, and would cer- tamly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not interfered to part them. All these combats were exhibited in the midst of at least 3000 people, and were con- ducted with the greatest good humour on all sides; though some of the champions, women as well as men, received blows which, doubtless, they must have felt for some time after. As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me that the heaps of provisions on our right band were a present to Omai; and that those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that I migh-^^ake them on board whenever it was convenient'; but thot there would be no occasion to set any of our people as guards over them, as I might be assured that not a single cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved ; for I left everything behind, and returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the chief with me ; and when the provisions were removed on board in the after- noon, not a single article was miss- ing. There was as much as loaded four boats; and I could not but be struck wit^ the munificence of Fee- BOXING MATCHES. 115 nou, for this present far exceeded any I had ever received from any of the sovereigns of the various islands I had visited in the Pacific Ocean. I lost no time in convincing my friend that I was not insensible of his liber- ality; for, before he quitted my ship, I bestowed upon hira such of our commodities as I guessed were most valuable in his estimation. And the return I made was so much to his satisfaction that, as scon as he got on shore, he left me still indebted to him hy sending me a fresh pre- sent, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable quantity of cloth, and some yams. Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through their military exercise. As I was desirous to gratify his curiosity, I ordered them all ashore from both ships in the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various evolutions, and fired several volleys, with which the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief enter- tained us in his turn with an exhibi- tion which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness far surpassing the spec- imen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance so entirely different from any- thing I had ever seen, that I fear I can give no description that will con- vey any tolerable idea of it, to my readera. It was performed by men ; and 105 persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a small handle and a thin blade ; so that tliey were very light. "With these instru- ments they made many and various flourishes, each of which was accom- panied with a different attitude of the body or a different movement. At first the performers ranged them- selves in three lines ; and, by various evolutions, each man changed his station in such a manner that those who had been in the rear came into the front. Nor did they remain long in the same position ; but these 116 chnn^ea were made by prettv quick trausitious. At one time they ex- tended themsclvea in one line ; they then formed into a semicircle; and, lastly, into two square columns. While this last movement was exe- cuting, one of tliem advanced, and ]un-formcd an antic dance before me ; with which tlie whole ended. The musical instruments consisted of two dmms, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced by beating on them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me that the dancers were much assisted or direc- ted by these sounds, but by a chorus of vocal music, in which all the per- formers joined at the same time. Their song was not destitute of pleas- ing melody; and all their corre- sponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the numerous body of dancers seemed to act as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion of every one of us that such a performance would have met with universal applause on a European theatre; and it so far ex- ceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed to pique themselves ui>on the superior- ity they had over us. As to our musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except the drum; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our French horns, in particular, seemed to be held in great contempt ; for neither here, nor at any other of the islands, would they pay the smallest attention to them. In order to give them a more favour- able opinion of English amusements, and to leave their minds fully im- pressed with the deepest sense of our superior attainments, I directed some fireworks to bo got ready ; and, after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Some of the preparations we found damaged ; but others of them were in excellent order, and succeeded so prfectly as to answer the end I had ut view. Our water and sky rockets, COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. II. Ch. V. in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all conception ; and the scale was now turned in our favour. This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional motive to proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular dexterity ; and our fire- works were no sooner ended, than a succession of dances, which Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As* a prelude to them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen men, seated themselves before us, iu the centre of the circle composed by the numerous spectators, the area of which was to be the scene of the ex- hibitions. Four or five of this band had pieces of lar^e bamboo, from three to five or six feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a vertical position, the upper end open but the other end closed by one of the joints. With this close end, the performers kept constantly striking the gi'ound, though slowly, thus producing different notes, accord- ing to the different lengths of the instrnmenta, but all of them of the hollow or bass sort ; to counteract which, a person kept striking quickly with two sticks a piece of the same substance, split, and laid along the ground, and by that means furnishing a tone as acute as those produced by the others were crave. The rest of the band, as well as those who per- formed upon the bamboos, sung a s!ow and soft air, which so tempered the harsher notes of the above instru- ments, that no bystander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied modulation of sweet;r*und8, could avoid confessing the vast power and pleasing effect of this simple har- mony. The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women entered the circle. Most of them had upon their heads garlands of the crira- sonflowers of the China rose, or others ; and many of them had ornamented their * MrAnderson'saccountof the night dances, being much fuller than Cap- tain Cook's, was adopted by the editor of tho original edition. May 1777.] ENTEllTAINMENT OF SINQINO AND DANCING. 117 iwrsonswith leavea of treoa, cut with a great deal of nicely about the edges. They made a circle round l'.o chorus turning tlieir faces toward it luid began by singing a soft air, to which rcsjxjnses were made by the cjjorus in thfi sanjo tone ; and tliose were repeated alternately. All this while, the women acconiimnied their song with several very graceful motions of their hands toward thuir faces, and in other direc- tions at the same time, making con- stantly a step forward, and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the assembly, sung some time, and retreated slowly in a body to that part of the circle which was opposite the hut where fcho jtrincipal spectators Silt. After this, one of them advanced from each side, meeting and passing each other in the front, and continuing their progress round, till they came to the rest. On which, two advanced from each side, two ofwhom also passed each other, and returned as the fonner ; but t ha other two remained ; and to these came one, from eacb side, by intervals, till the whole numb had again formed a circle about the t iiorus. Their man- ner of dancing was now i hanged to a quicker measure, in which they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and snapped their fingers, repeating some words in conjunction with the cnorus. Towards the end, as the quickness of the music increased, their gestures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity ; and some of their motions, perhaps, would with us be reckoned rather indecent. Though this part of the performance, most probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely co dis- play the astonishing variety of 'heir movements. To this grand female ballet suc- ceeded one performed by fifteen men. Some of them were old ; but their age seemed to have abated little of their agility or ardour for the dance. They were disposed in a sort of circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the assembly, nor inward to the chorus : but one half of their circle faced forward as they had advanced, and the other half in a contrary direction. They somotinnfM sung slowly in conrert w i th the chorus ; and while thas empl.tyi '., they also made several very fine mo- tions with their hands, but ditlcrent from those made by the women, at the same time inclining the body to either side alternately, by raising one leg, which was btretched outward, and resting on the other ; the arm of the same side being also stretched fully upward. At other times, they recited sentences in a musical tone, whicli were answered by the chorus ; and at intervals increased the measure of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quickening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never varied. At the end, the rapidity of the music and of the dancing increased so much, that it was scarcely possi- ble to distinguish the different move- ments ; though one might suppose the actors were now almost tired, as their performance had lasted near half-an-hour. After a considerable interval, an- other act, as we may call it, began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed thems'lves in double rows fronting each other, but on opposite sides of the circle; and on one side a man was stationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated several sentences, to which the twelve new performers and the chorus replied. They then sung slowly, and afterwards danced and sung more qnickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they had succeeded. Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat down fronting the hut where the cluef was. A man then rose, and struck the first of these women on the back with both fists joined. He proceeded, in the same manner, to the second and third ; but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident or design I cannot toll, instead of the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this, a person rose instantly from the crowd* who brought him to the ground with a blow on the hpad ; and ho was carried 118 COOK'S VOYAGES off witliout the least noise or disorder. But this did not save the other five women from so odd a discipline, or perhaps necessary ceremony ; for a person succeeded him, who treated them in the same manner. Their disgrace did not end h(>re ; for when they danced, they had the mortifica- tion to find their performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to rtpeat it. This dance did not difi'er much from that of the first women, except in this one circumstance, that the present set sometimes raised the body upon one leg, by a sort of double motion, and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude they kept snapping their fingers ; and at the end they repeated with great agility the brisk movements iu which the former group of female dancers had shown themselves so expert. In a little time, a person entered unexpectedly, and said something in a ludicrous way about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which extorted a burst of laughter from the multitude. Alter this, we had a dance composed of the men who attended or had fol- lowed Feeuou. They formed a double circle (i.e., one within another) of twenty-four each, round the chorus, and began a gentle soothing song, with corresponding motions of the hands and head. This lasted a consider- able time, and then changed to a much quicker measure, during which they repeated sentences, either in conjunc- tion with the chorus, or in answer to some spoken by that band. They then retreated to the back part ot the circle, as the women had dene, and again advanced, on each siie, in a triple row, till they formed a semicircle, which was done very slowly, by in- clining the body on one leg, and ad- vancing the other a little way, as they put it down. They accompanied this with such a soft air as they had sung at the beginning ; but ioon changed it to repeat sentences in a harsher tone, at the same time quickening the dance very much, till they finished with a general s^'out and clap of the hands. The same was repeated several times; but, at la3t, they formed a tVoY.ni.B.II.CH.V. as at the beginning, double circle danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally closed with several very dexterous transpositions of the two circles. The entertainments of this memor- al/le night concluded with a dance, in which the principal people present exhibited. It resembled the imme- diately preceding one iu some respects, having the same number of performers, who began nearly in the same way ; but their ending at each interval was different. For they increased their motions to a prodigious quickness, sliaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder with such force, that a spec- tator, unaccustomed to the sight, would suppose that they ran a risk of dislo- cating their necks. This was attended with a smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage "Holla 1" or shriek, not unlike what is sometimes practised iu the comic dances on our European theatres. They formed the triple semicircle, as the preceding dancers had done ; and a person, who advanced at the head on one side of the semicircle, began by repeating something in a truly musical recita- tive, which was delivered with an air 80 graceful as might put to the blush our most applauded perfoiraers. He was answered in the same manner by the person at the head of the opposite party. This being repeated several times, the whole body on one side joined in the responses to the whole corresponding body on the opposite side, as the semicircle advanced to the front ; and they finished by sing- ing and dancing as they had begim. These two last dances were per- formed with so much spirit, and so great exactness, that they met with universal approbation. The native spectators, who, no doubt, were per- fect jadges whether the several per- formances were properly executed, could not withhold their applauses at some particular parts ; and even a stranger, who never saw the diversion before, felt similar satisfaction at the same instant. For though, through the whole, the most strict concert was observed, some of the gestui'cs were Mat 7777.] BO expressive, that it might be said they spoke the language +hat accom- panied them ; if we allow that there IS any connection between motion and soimd. At the same time, it should bo observed that though the music of the cl" ""US and that of the dancers corre- spoiided, constant practice in these fayourite amusements of our friends seems to have a great share in effect- ing the exact time they keep in their performances. For we observed, that if any of them happened accidentally to be interrupted, they never found the smallest aifficulty in recovering the proper place of the dance or song. And their perfect discipline was in no instance more remarkable than in the sudden transitions they so dexterously made from the ruder exertions, and harsh sounds, to the softest arts and gentlest movements. The place where the dances were performed was an open space amongst the trees, just by the sea, with lights at smaU intervals placed round the inside of the circle. The concourse of people was pretty large, though not equal to the number assembled in the forenoon when the marines exeicised. At that time, some of our gentlemen guessed there might be present about 5000 persons; others though u there were more ; but they who reckoned that there were fewer T?robably came nearer to the truth. DESCRIPTION OP LEFOOGA. 119 CHAPTER VI. . CUBIOSITY on both sit as being now sufficiently gratified by the exhibition of the various entertainment} I have described, I began to have tinn to look about me. Accoidingly, nuxt day [May 21st], I took a walk into the Island of Lefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain some knowledge. I found it to be in some respects supe- rior to Annamooka. The plantations were both more numerous and more extensive. In many places, indeed, towards the sea, especially on the east side, the country is still waste, owing perhaps to the paudy soil ; as it is much lower than Annamooka and its surrounding isles. But towards the middle of the island the soil is better, and the marks of considerable popu- lation and of improvetl cultivation were very conspicuous. For we met here with very large plantations, en- closed in such a manx r, that the fences running parallel to each of;her, form fine spacious public roads, that would ap];»';€ir ornamental in countries where rural convenisnces have been carried to the greatest perfection. Wo observed large sp;'s covered with the paper mulberry -trees ; and the plan- tations in general were well stocked with such roots and / uits as are the natural produce of ♦lie island. To these I made somf addition, by sow- ing the seeds of Indian com, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house, four or five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of grass before it ; and I take it for granted the people resort thither on certain public occa- sions. Near the landing-place wd saw a mount, two or three feet high, covered with gravel ; and on it stood four or five small huts, in which, the natives told us, the bodies of some of their principal people had been in- terred. In my walk on the 25th I happened to step into a house where a woman was dressing the eyes of a young child, who seemed blind ; the eyes being much inflamed, and a thin film spread over them. The instruments she used were two slender wooden probes, with which she had brushed the eyes so as to make them bleed. It seems worth mentioning, that the natives of those islands should attempt an operation of this sort ; though I entered the house too late to describe exactly how this female oculist employed the wretched tools she had to work with. I was fortunate enough to see a dif- ferent operation going on in the sarao house, of which 1 can give a tolerable account. I found there another woman shaving a child's head with a shark's tooth stuck into the end of a piece of stick. I observed that she first ,vct the hair with a rag dipped iu water, 120 COOK'S VOYAGES. applying her instrument to that part which she had previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken oflf as close as if one of our razors had been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of these sii^gular instruments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent succedaneum. However, the men of these islands have recourse to another contrivance when they shave their beards. The operation is performed with two shells ; one of which they place under a small part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part off. In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful ; and there are men amongst them who seem to profess this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped off, after the fashion of Hapaee, aa it was to see their chiefs come on board to be shaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was now brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and to await Fee- nou's return from Vavaoo In some other convenient anchoring -place, where refreshments might still be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon of the 26th we got under sail, and stood to the southward along the reef of the island. At half-past two in the after- noon, I hauled into a bay that lies between the south end of Lefooga and the north end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in seventeen fathoms water. The Discovery did not get to an an- chor till sunset. She had touched upon one of the shoals, but backed off again without receiving any damage. The place where we now anchored is much better sheltered than that which we had lately come from ; but between the two is another anchoring station much better than either. Lofooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which is dry at low water ; so that one may walk at that time from the one to the other without wetting a foot. Some [VoY.ni.B.II.Cn.ri. of our gentlemen, who landed in the latter island, did not find the least mark of cultivation or habitation upon it ; except a single hut, the residence of a man employed to catch fish and turtle. At daybreak on the 27th, I made the signal to weigh ; and as I in- tended to attempt a passage to Anna- mooka in my way to Tongataboo by the south-west amongst the interven- ing islands, I sent the master in a boat to sound before the ships. But before we could get under sail, the wind became unsettled ; which made it unsafe to attempt a passage this way till we were better acquainted with it. I therefore lay fast, and made the signal for the master to re- turn, and afterward sent him and the master of the Discovery, each in a boat, with instructions to examine the channels as far as they could, allowing themselves time to get beck to the ships before the close of the day.i At daybreak on the 29th, I weiglied with a fine breeze at ENE., and stood to the westward, with a view to re- turn to Annamooka by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by several sailing canoes, in one of which was the King. As soon as he got on board the Resolution, he inquired for his b.-other and the others who had rems ined with us all night. It now appea' ed that they had stayed without his ieave, for he gave them in a very few words such a reprimand as brought tears from their eyes ; and yet they were men not less than thirty years of ag , He was, however, soon ^ While lying here they received a visit from Poulaho, the real king of Tongataboo, who brought two fat hogs on board as a present, but which are described as not so fat as himself. He endeavoured to convince them that he and not Feenou was the king. Early in the morning of the last day of their stay, he brought a present to Captain Cook of one of their native caps, which was covered with the tail feathers of tropic birds, and highly prizei'. even amongst themselves. 3^^1771.] ISLAND OP ttOTOO. 121 king of reconciled to their making a longer stay ; for on quitting us lie left hia brother and five of his attendants on board. We had also the company of a chief, just then arrivfid from Tonga- taboo, whose name was Toobouoitoa, The moment he arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and five more who came with him would sleep on board ; so that I had now my cabin filled with visitors. This, in- deed, was some inconvenience ; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought plenty of provisions with them as presents to me ; for which they always had suitable returns. About 1 o'clock in the afternoon the easterly wind was succeeded by a fresh breeze at SS E. ur course no w being SS W. , or more southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but just fetch the north side of Footooha by 8 o'clock, where we spent the night, making short boards. The next morn- ing we plied up to Lofanga, where, according to the information of our friends, there was anchorage. It was 1 o'clock in the afternoon before wo got soundings, under the lee or north- west side, in forty fathoms water, near half-a-mile from the shore ; but the bank was steep and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to leeward. All these circumstances being against us, I stretclied away for Kotoo, with the expectation of finding better an- choring ground under that island. But so much time had been spent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was dark before we reeched the other ; and, finding no place to anchor in, the night was spent as the preceding one. At daybreak on the 31st, I stood for the channel which is between Kotoo and the reef of rocks that lies to the westward of it ; but on drawing near I found the wind too scant to lead us through. I therefore bore up on the outside of the reef, and stretched to the SW. till near noon, when, per- ceiving that we made no progress to windward, and being apprehensive of losing the islands with so many of the natives on board, I tacked and stood back, intending to wait till soiuG .TQore favourable opportunity. We did but just fetch in witli Foo- tooha, between which and Kotoo we spent the night under reeled topsails and foresail. The wind blew fresh, and by squalls, with rain ; and we were not without apprehensions of danger. I kept the deck till mid- night, when I left it to tVe master, with such directions as 1 thought would keep the ships clear of the shoals and rocks that lay round us. But after making a trip to the north, and standing back again to the south, our ship, by a small shift of the wind, fetched farther to the windward than was expected. By this iraans she was very near running full up'^n a low sa.jdy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa, surrounded with breakers. It hap- Eened very fortunately that the people ad just been ordered upon the deck, to put the ship about, and the most of them were at their stations, so that the necessary movements were not only executed with judgment, but also with alertness, and this alone saved us from destruction. The Dis- covery, being astern, was out of danger. Such hazardous situations are the un- avoidable companions of the man who goes upon a voyage of discovery. This circumstance frightened our passengers so much, that they ex- pressed a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as soon as daylight re- turned, I hoisted out a boat, and . ordered the officer who commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound along the reef that spits off from that island, for anchorage. For I was full as much tired as they could be with beating about amongst the surrounding isles and shoals, and de- termined to get to an anchor some- where or other if possible. While the boat was absent, we attempted to turn the ships through the channel between the sandy isle and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But meeting with a tide or current against us, we were obliged to desist, and anchor in fifty fathoms water, with the sandy isle bearing E. by N., one mile distant. We lay here till the 4th, While in COOK'S A'^OYAGKS 122 this station we were several times visited by the King, by Tooboueitoa, and by people from the neighbour- ing islands, who came off to trade with U3, though the wind blow very fresh most of the time. The master was now sent to sound the channels between the islands that lifl to the eastward ; and I landed on Kotc", to examine it, in the forenoon of the 2d [of June]. This island is scarcely ac- cessible by boats, on account of coral reefs that surround it. It is not more than a mile and a half or two miles long, and not so broad. The NW. end of it is low, like the islands of Hapaee ; but it rises suddenly in the middle, and terminates in reddish clayey cliffs, at the SE. end, about thirty feet high. The soil in that quarter is of the same sort as in the cliffs ; but in the other parts it is a loose, black mould. It produces the same fruits and roots which we found at the other islands, is tolerably cul- tivated, but thinly inhabited. While I was walking all over it, our people were employed in cutting some grass for the cattle ; and we planted some melon seeds, with which the natives seemed much pleased, and enclosed them with branches. On our return to the boat, we passed by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was more or less brackish in each of them ; and saw one of their burying-places, which was much neater than those that were met with at Hapaee. On the 4tb, at seven in the morn- ing, we weighed, and, with a fresh gale at ESE. stood away for Anna- niooka, where we anchored next morning nearly in the same station which we had so lately occupied. I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants very busy in their plantations, digging up yams to bring to market ; and in the course of the day about 200 of them had assembled on the beach, and traded with as much eagerness as during our late visit. Their stock appeared to have been recruited much, though we had returned so soon ; but instead of bread- fiuit, which was the onhr article we could porchase on our first arrival, [VoY.Tn.B.l!.CH.VI. nothing was to be seen now but yams and a tew plantains. This shows the quick succession of the seasons, at least of the different vegetables pro- duced here at the several times of the year. It appeared also that they had been very busy while we were absent in cultivating ; for we now saw several large plantain fields in places which we had so lately seen lying waste. The yams were now in the greatest perfection ; and we procured a good quantity in exchanges for pieces of iron. These people, in the absence of Toobou, whom we left behind us at Kotoo with Poiilaho and other chiefs, seemed to be under little sub- ordination. For we could not per- ceive this day that one man assumed more authority than another. Before I returned on bo"'*;!, I visited the several places where I had sown melon seeds, and had the mortification to find that most of them were destroyed by a small ant ; but some pine-apple plants, which I had also left, were in a thriving state. About noon next day Feenou ar. rived from Vavaoo. He told us thai several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late blowing weather; and that everybody on board them had perished. This melancholy tale did not seem to affect any of his coun- tiymen who heard it ; and as to our- selves, we were by this time too well acquainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. The truth probably was, that he had not been able to procure at Vavaoo the supplies which he expected, or, if he got any there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way back, and where he could not but receive intelligence that Poulaho had been with us, who therefore, he knew, would as his superior have all the merit and reward of procuring them, though he had not any share of the trouble. The invention of this loss at sea was, however, well imagined. For there had lately been very blow- ing weather, insomuch that the King and other chiefs, who had followed mm ^-:■^ia JtNE 1777.] ARRIVAL AT TONGATABOO. 128 from Hapaee to Kotoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to sea when we did ; but desired I might wait for them at Annamooka, which was the reason of my anchoring there this second time, and of my not pro- ceeding directly tv/ Tongataboo. The following morning, Poulaho and the other chiefs who had been windbound with him arrived. I hap- pened, at this time to be ashore m company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the impro- priety of his conduct in assuming a character that did not belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of Tongataboo and the other isles, but affected to insist much on it, which no doubt was with a view to make amends for his former pre- sumption. I left him to visit this greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him. But, every one hastening to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty fast. I was very desirous of observing Fee- nou's behaviour on this occasion ; and had the most convincing proof of his inferiority, for he placed himself amongst the rest that sat before Pou- laho as attendants on his majesty. He seemed at first rather abashed, as some of us were present who had been used to see him act a different part ; but he soon recovered himself. Some little conversation passed between these two chiefs, which none of us understood ; nor were we satisfied with Omai's interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time sufficiently undeceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board with me to dinner ; but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his obeisance in the usual way, salvtTne; his sovereign's foot with his heai': a- hands, retired out of the cabin. T no King had before told us that this would happen ; and it now appeared that Feenou could not even eat nor drink in his royal presence. At 8 o'clock next morning we weighed and steered for Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at NE. About fourteen or fifteen sailing vessels be- longing to the natives set out with* out us ; but every one of them outrun the ships considerably. Feenou was to have taken his passage in the Resolution, but preferred his own canoe, and put two men on board to conduct us to the best anchorage. We steered S. by W. by compass. We continued the same course tiU 2 o'clock next morning, when, seeing some lights ahead, and not knowing whether they were on shore or on board the canoes, we hauled the wind, and made a short trip each way tiU daybreak. We then re- sumed our course to the S. by W. ; and, presently after, saw several small islands before us, and Eooa and Tongataboo beyond them. We had at this time twenty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and sand. The depth gradually de- creased as we drew near the isles above mentioned, which lie ranged along the NE. side of Tongataboo. By the direction of our pUots we steered for the middle of it, and for the widest space between the small isles which we were to pass, having our boats ahead employed in sound- ing. We were, insensibly, drawn upon a large flat, upon which lay in- numerable coral rocks, of different depths below the surface of the water. Notwitlistanding all our care and at- tention to keep the ship clear of them, we could not prevent her from striking on one of these rocks. Nor did the Discovery, though behind us, escape any better. Fortunately neither of the ships stuck fast, nor received any damage. We could not get back with- out increasing the dungei ya we had come in almost before tlie wind. Nor could -"e cast anchor but with the cer- tainty y.f having our cables instantly cut in two by the rocks. We had no other resource but to proceed. To this, indeed, we were encouraged, not only by being told, but by seeing, that there was deeper water between us and the shore. However, that we might be better informed, the mo- ment we found a spot where we could drop the anchor clear of rocks, we came to, and sent the masters, with the boabi, to sound. 124 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. II. Ch. VIL Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, several of the in- habitants of Tongataboo came off in their canoes to the ships. These, as well as our pilots, assured us that we should find deep water farther in, and a bottom free from rocks. They were not mistaken, for about 4 o'clock the boats made the signal for having found good anchorage. Upon this we weighed and stood in till dark, and then anchored in nine fathoms, having a fine, clear, sandy bottom. During the night we had some showers of rain ; but towards the morning the wind shifted to the S. and SE., and brought on fair weather. At daybreak we weighed, and, work- ing in to the sii-^re, met with no ob- structions but such as were visible and easily avoided While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the natives directed us, the King kept sailing round us in his canoe. There were at the same time a great many small canoes about the ships. Two of these, which could not get out of the way of his royal vessel, he run quite over, with as little concern as if they had been bits of wood. Amongst many others who came on board the Resolution was Otago; who had been so useful to me when I visited Ton- gataboo during my last voyage ; and one Toobou, who at that time had attached himself to Captain Furneaux. Each of them brought a hog and some yams as a testimony of his friendsliip ; and I was not wanting on my part in making a suitable return. At length, about two in the afternoon, we ar- rived at our intended station. It was a very snug place, formed by the shore of Tongataboo on the SE., and two small islands on the E. and NE. Here we anchored in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of oozy sand, distant from the shore one-third of a mile. CHAPTER VII. Soon after we had anchored, having firrt dined, I landed, accompanied by Omai and some of the officers. "We found tlie King waiting for us upon the beach. " ie immediately conducted us to a s'.iiall neat house, situated a little within the skirts of the woods, with a fine large area before it. This house, he told me, was at my service during our stay at the island, and a better situation we could not wish for. Wo had not been long in the house before a pretty large circle of the natives were assembled before us and seated upon the area. A root of the " kava " plant bein^ brought and laid down before the King, he ordered it to be split into pieces and distributed to several people of both sexes, who began the operation of chewing it; and a bowl of tlieir favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the meantime a baked hog, and two baskets of baked yams, were produced, and afterward divided into ten portions. These por- tions were then given to certain people present, but how many were to share in each I could not tell. One of them, I observed, was bestowed upon the King's brother; and one remoined undisposed of, which I judged was for the King himself, as it was a choice bit. The liquor was next served out, but Poulahc seemed to give no directions about it. The first cup was brought to him, which he ordered to be given to one who sat near him. The second was also brought to him, and this he kept. The third was given to me, but their manner of brewing having quenched my thirst, it became Omai's property. The rest of the liquor was distriouted to diff'erent people by direction of the man who had the management of it. One of the cups being carried to the King's brother, he retired with this and with his mess of victuals. Some others also quitted the circle with tlieir portions; and the reason was, they could neither eat nor drink in the royal presence; but there were othere present of a much inferior rank of both sexes, who did both. Soon after, most of them withdrew, carry- ing with them what they had not eaten of their shaix of the feast. I JCNE 1777.1 FRIENDLY RECEPTION AT TONGATABOO. 125 observed that not a fourth part of the company had tasted either the victuals or the drink — thoso who partook of the former I supposed to be of the King's household. The servants, who distributed the baked meat and the "kava," always delivered it out of their hand sitting, not only to the King, but to every other person. It is worthy of remark, though this was the first time of our landing, and a gieat many people were present who had never seen us before, yet no one was troublesome ; but the greatest good order was preserved throughout the whole assembly. Before I returned on board I went in search of a watering-ylace, and was conducted to some ponds, or, rather, holes, containing fresh water, as they were pleased to call it. The contents 31 one of these, indeed, were tolerable ; but it was at some distance inland, and the supply to be got from it was very ir considerable. Being informed that the little island of Pangimodoo, near which the ships lay, could better furnish this necessary article, I went over to it next morning, and was so fortunate as to find there a small pool that had rather fresher water than any we had metwith amongst these islands. The pool being very dirty, I ordered it to be cleaned, and hore it was that we watered the ships. As I intended to make some stay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent in the forenoon just by the house which Poulaho had assigned for our use. The horses, cattle, and sheep, were afterwards landed, and a party of marines, with their officer, stationed there as a guard. The ob- servatory was then set up at a sms-ll distance from the other tent, and Mr King resided on shore to attend the observations, and to superintend the several operations necessary to be con- ducted tuere ; for the sails were car- ried tliither to be repaired; a party was enijiloyed in cutting wood for fuel and])liink fortheuseof thosliips; and the mnincrs of both were ordered to remain upon the spot to conduct the traffic with the natives, who thronged from every part of the island with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produce. In a short time our land-post was like a fair, and the ships were so crowded with visitors that we had hardly room to stir upon the decks. [On hearing that there were other great men on the island whom they had not seen, with some little difficulty they were introduced to Mareewagee and old Toobou, whom they entertained for an hour with a performance on two French horns and a drum. This visit old Toobou returned next morning by coming on board ship, when he received a considerable present from Captain Clerke,] Toward noon [on the 4th] Poulaho returned from the place where we had left him two days before, and brought with him his son, a youth about twelve years of ago. I had his com- pany at dinner, but the son, though present, was not allowed to sit down with him. It was very convenient to have him for my guest ; for when he was present, which was generally the case while we stayed here, every other native was excluded from the table, and but few of them would remain in the cabin. Whereas, if by chance it happened that neither he nor Ff enou was on board, the inferior chiefs would be very importunate to be of our dining party, or to be admitted into the cabm at that time ; and then we were so crowded that we could not sit down to a meal with any satisfac- tion. The King was very soon recon- ciled to our manner of cookery. But still I believe he dined thus frequently with me more for the sake of what we gave him to drink than for what we set before him to eat. For he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as well as most men, and was as cheerful over it. He now fixed his residence at tlie house, or •' malaee," by our tent; and there he entertained our people this evening with a dance. To the surprise of everybody the unwieldy Poulalio en- deavoured to vie with others in that active amusement. In the morning ol the 15th I re- ceived a message from old Toobou that he wanted to see me ashore. 126 Accordingly Omai and I wont to wait upon him. We found him, like an ancient patriarch, seated under the shade of a tree, with a large piece of a cloth made in the island spread out at full length before him, and a num- ber of respectable-looking people sit- ting round it. He desired us to place ourselves by him, and then he told Omai that the cloth, together with a piece of red feathers and about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his present to me. I thanked him for the favour, and desired he would go on board with me, as I had nothing on shore to give him in return. Omai now left me, being sent for by Poulaho ; and soon after Feenou came and acquainted me that young Fatrafaihe, Poulaho's son, desired to see me. I obeyed the sum- mons, and found the prince and Omai sitting under a large canopy of the finer sort of cloth, with a piece of the coarser sort spread under them and before them that was seventy-six yards long and seven and a half broad. On one side was a large old boar, and on the other side a heap of cocoa-nuts. A number of people were seated round the cloth, and amongst them I ob- served Mareewagee and others of the first rank. I was desired to sit down by the prince, and then Omai informed me that he had been instructed by the King to tell me that, as he and I were friends, he hoped his son might be joined in this friendship, and that, as a token of my consent, I would accept of his present. I very readily agreed to the proposal ; and it being now dinner-time, I invited them aU on board. Accordingly the young prince, Ma- reewagee, old Toobou, three or four inferior chiefs, and two respectable old ladies of the first rank, accom- panied me. Mareewagee was dressed in a new piece of cloth, on the skirts of which were fixed six pretty large patches of red featliers. This dress seemed to have been made on purpose for this visit, for as soon as he got on board he put it off and presented it to me, having, I guess, heard that it would be acceptable on account of the feathers, Every one of my visitors COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vov. III. B. II. Ch. VII. received from me such presents as I had reason to believe they were highly satisfied with. When dinner came upon table, not one of them would sit down, or eat a bit of anything that was served up. On expressing my surprise at this, they were all "taboo, ' as they said, which word has a very comprehensive meaning, but in gene- ral signifies that a thing is forbidden. Why they were laid under such re- straints at present was not explained. Dinner being over, and having grati- fied their curiosity by showing to them every part of tl.c ship, I then conducted them asho'-e. As soon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou and some others instantly stopped out Young Fatrafaihe following them, was called back by Mareewagee, wlio now paid the heir-ajiparent the same obeis- ance, and in the same manner, that I had seen it paid to the King. And when old Toobou and one of the old ladies had shown him the same marks of respect, he was suffered to land. This ceremony being over, the old people stepped from my boat into a canoe that was waiting to carry them to their place of abode. I was not sorry to be present on this occasion, as I was thus furnished with the most unequivocal proofs of the supreme dignity of Poulaho and his son over the other principal chiefs. Indeed by this time I had acquired some certain information about the relative situations of the several great men whose names liave been so often mentioned. I now knew that Maree- wagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of great pro- perty in the island, and seemed to be in high estimation with the people ; the former, in particular, had the very honourable appellation given to him, by everybody, of "Motooa Tonga; that is to say. Father of Tonga, or of his country. The nature of his relationship to the King was also no longer a secret to us ; for we now understood that he was his father-in-law, Poulaho having mar- ried one of his daughters, by whom ho had this son; so that Mareewagee was the prince's grandfather. Pou- I ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN BY MAREEWAGEE. 127 I June 1777.] laho*o appearance having satisfied us that we had heen under a mistake in considering Feenou as the sovereign of these islands, we had been at first much puzzled about his real rank ; Lut that was by this time ascertained, Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons, and Tooboueitoa was another. On my landing I found the King in the house adjoining to our tent, along with our people who resided on shore. The moment I got to him, he bestowed upon me a present of a large hog and a quantity of yams. About the dusk of the evening a number of men came, and, having sat down in a round group, began to sing in concert with the music of bamboo drums, which were placed in the centre. There were three long ones and two short. With these they stnick the ground endwise, as before described." There were two others which lay on the ground side by side, and one of them was split or shivered; on these a man kept beating with two small sticks. They sung three songs while I stayed, and I was told that after I left them the entertainment lasted till 10 o'clock. Thev burnt the leaves of the " wharra palm for a light ; which is the only thing I ever saw them make use of for this purpose. On the 16th in the morning, after visiting the several works now carry- ing on ashore, Mr Gore and I took a walk into the country ; in the course of which nothing remarkable ap- peared but our having opportunities of seeing the whole process of making cloth, which is the principal manu- facture of these islands, as well as of many others in this ocean. In the narrative of my first voyage, a minute description is given of these operations as performed at Otaheite ; but the process here differing in some partic- ulars, it may be worth while to give the following account of it : The manufacturers, who are females, take the slender stalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they cul- ^ In the account of the festivities ot Hapaee, ante, Chapter V. tivate for that piirpose, and whick seldom grows more than six or seven feet in height and about four fingers in thickness. From these they strip the bark, and scrape off the outer rind with a mussel-shell. The bark is then rolled up to take off the con- vexity which it had round the stalk, and macerated in water for some time (they say a night). After this, it is laid across the trimk of a small tree squared, and beaten with a square wooden instrument, about a foot long, full of coarse grooves on all sides; but sometimes with one that is plain. According to the size of the bark, a piece is soon produced ; but the operation is often repeated by another hand, or it is folded several times and beaten longer, which seems rather intended to close than to divide its texture. When this is suflBciently effected, it is spread out to dry ; the pieces being from four to six or more feet in length, and half as bread. They are then given to another per- son, who joins the pieces, by smear- ing part of them over with the viscous juice of a berry called "to-oo," which serves as a glue. Having buen thus lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a kind of stamp, made of a fibrous substance pretty closely interwoven, placed beneath. They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice expressed from the bark of a tree called " kokka," which they rub briskly upon the piece that is making. This at once leaves a dull brown colour and a dry gloss upon its surface; the stamp at the same time making a slight impres- sion, that answers no other purpose that I could see but to make the several pieces that are glued together stick a little more firmly. In this manner they proceed, joining and staining by degrees, till they produce a piece of cloth of such length and breadth as they want; generally leaving a border of a foot hroad at the sides, and longer at the ends, unstained. Throughout the whole, if any parts of the original pieces are too thin, or have holes, which is often the case, they glue spare hits 128 COOK'S VOYAGES. npon them till &ey become of an equal thickness. When they want to produce a black colour, they mix tho soot procured from an oily nut called " dooe dooe," with the juice of the " kokka," in different quantities, according to tho proposed depth of tlie tinge. They say that the black sort of cloth, which is most commonly glazed, makes a cold dress, but the other a warm one; and, to obtain strength in both they are always careful to join the small pieces length- wise, which makes it impossible to tear the cloth in any direction but one. On our return from the country we met with Feenou, and took him and another young chief on board to dinner. When our fare was set upon the table, neither of them would eat a bit ; saying that they were " taboo avy." But after inquiring how the victuals had been dressed, having found that no "avy" (water) had been used in cooking a pig and some yams, they both sat down and made a very hearty meal; and, on being assured that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it also. From this we conjectured that on some account or another they were at this time forbidden to use water ; or, which was more probable, they did not like the water we made use of, it being taken up out of one of their bathing places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people that were "taboo avy ; but for what • reason we never could tell with any degree of certainty. ;jText day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee for giving a grand "Haiva," or entertainment, to which we were all invited. For this purpose \ large space had been cleared before the temporary hut of tliis chief near our post, as an area where the per- formances were to be exhibited. In the morning great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying a pole about six feet long upon his shoulder; and at each end of every pole a yam was suspended. These yams and poles were deposited on each side of the [VOT.III.B.II.CH.VII. area, so as to form two large heaps, decorated with different sorts ot small fish, and piled up to the greatest advantage. They were Mareewagee 's present to Captain Clerke and me ; and it was hard to say whether the wood for fuel or the yams for food were of most value to us. As for the fish, they might serve to please the sight, but were very offensive to the smell ; part of them having been kept two or three days, to be presented to us on this occasion. Everything being thus prepared, about 11 o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which they call "mai." The music ^ consisted at first of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down; and amidfit them were placed three instruments which we called drums, though very^ unlike them. They are large cylmdrical pieces of wood, or trunks of trees, from three to four feet long, some twice as thick as an ordinary- sized man, and some smaller, hol- lowed entirely out, but close at both ends, and open only by a chink about three inches broad running almost the whole length of the drums; by which opening the rest of the wood ia certainly hoUowed, though the opera- tion must be difficult. This instru- ment is called "naffa;" and with the chink turned toward them, they sit and beat strongly upon it with two cylindrical pieces of iiurd wood about a foot long and as thick as the wrist ; by which means they produce a rude though loud and powerful sound. They vary the strength and rate of their beating at different parts of the dance ; and also change the tones, by beating in the middle or near the end of their drum. The first dance consisted of four ranks of twenty-four men each, hold- ing in their hands a little, thin, light wooden instrument, above two feet long, and in shape not unlike a small oblong paddle. With these, which * Mr Anderson's description of the entertainments of this day, being much fuller than Captain Cook's, has been adopted, as ou a former occa- sion. JUKB 1777.] MAREEWAOEE'S ENTERTAINMENT. 129 of four zh, hold- lin, light two feet e a small e. yihich are called "pa^," thej^ made a great many diflerent motions ; such as pointing them towards the ^ound on one side, at the same time inclin- ing their bodies that way, from which they were shifted to the opposite side in the same manner ; then passing them quickly from one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dexterously, with a variety of other manoeuvres, all which were accom- panied by corresponding attitudes of the body. Their motions were at first slow, but quickened as the drums beat faster ; and they recited sen- tences in a musioid tone the whole time, which were answered by the chorus ; but at the end of a short space they all joined, and finished with a shout After ceasing about two or three minutes, they began as before, and continued, with short in- tervals, above a quarter of an hour, when, the rear rank dividing, shifted themselves very slowly round each end, and meeting in the front, formed the first rank, the whole number con- tinuing to recite the . sentences as before. The other ranks did the same successively, till that which at first was the front became the rear ; and the evolution continued in the same manner till the last rank regained its first situation. They then began a much quicker dance (though slow at first), and sang for about ten minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then ap- proached, forming a sort of circular figure, which finished the dance, the drums being removed, and the chorus going off the field 8,t the same time. The second dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus ; and the dancers, or rather actors, consisted of two ranks, the foremost having seventeen and the other fifteen persons. Feenou was at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place in these cases. They danced and recited sen- tences, with some very short intervals, for about half-an-hour, sometimes quickly, sometimes more slowly, but with such a degi-ee of exactness as if '3ii the motions were made by one man, which did them great credit. Near the close, tiie back rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again resumed its situa> tion, as in the first dance ; and when they finished, the drums and chorus, as before, went off. Three drums (which at least took two, and sometimes three, men to carry them) were now brought in, and seventy men sat down as a chorus to the third dance. This consisted of two ranks of sixteen persons each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a sort of garment covered with red feathers. These danced, sang, and twirled the "pagge" as before, but in general much quicker, and performed so well that they had the constant applauses of the spectators. A motion that met with particular approbation was one in which they held the face aside as if ashamed, and the ' ' pagge " before it. Tiie back rank closedbefore the front one, and that again resumed its place, as in the two forme/ dances ; but then the^ began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the greatest part of the ground clear. At that instant two men entered very hastily, and exercised the clubs which they use in battle. They did this by first twirling them in their hands and making circular strokes before them with |;reat force and quickness, but so skilfully managed that though standing quite close they never inter- fered. They shifted their clubs from hand to hand with great dexterity ; and after continuing a little time, kneeled and made different motions, tossing tlie clubs up in the air, which they caught as they fell, and then went off as hastily as they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth tied at the crown almost like a nightcap, with a wreath of foliage round the forehead ; but they had only very small pieces of white cloth tied about their waists, probably that they might be cool and n-ee from every encuimbrance or weight. A person with a spear, dressed like the former, then came in, and ia the same I ISO haslj manner, looking about eagerly as if in search of somebody to throw it at. He then ran hastily to one side of the crowd in the front, and pnt himself in a threatening attitude, as if he meant to strike with hia spear at one of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling as it were with rage. He continued in this manner only a few seconds, when he moved to the other side, and having stood in the same posture there for the same short time, retreated from the ground as fast as when he mode his appear- ance. The dancers, who had divided into two parties, kept repeating some- thing slowly all this while, and now advanced and joined again, ending with universal applause. It should seem that this dance was considered as one of their capital performances, if we might judge from some of the principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by Futtafaihe, the brother of Poulaho ; another by Fcenou ; and the third, which did not belong to the chorus, bvMareewagee himself, at the entrance of his hut. The last dance had forty men and two drums as a chorus. It consisted of sixty men who had not danced be- fore, disposed in three rows, having twenty-four in front. But before they began we were entertained with a pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made re- sponses to a single person who spoke. They recited sentences (perhaps verses) alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the "pagge," in a very brisk mode, whicn were all applauded with " mareeai " and " fy- fogge," words expressing two different degrees of praise. They divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other, formed again, shifted their ranks as in the other dances, divided and retreated, making room for two champions, who exercised their clubs as before ; and after them two others, the dancers all the time reciting slowly in turn with the chorus, after which they advanced and finished These dances, if they can properly be called so, lasted from 11 till near 3 COOK'S VOYAQKS. [VoT.III.B.It.CH.Vn. o'clock ; and though they were doubt- leas intended particularly cither in honour of us, or to show a specimen of their dexterity, vast numbers of their own people attended ap specta- tors. Their numbers could not be computed exactly, on account of the inequality of the ground; but by reckoning the inner circle, and the number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many places, we supposed that there must be near 4000. At the same time there were round the trading place at the tent and straggling abort, at least as many more ; and some of us computed tiiat at this time there were not less than 10,000 or 12,000 people in our neigh- bourhood—that is, within the com- pass of a quarter of a mile,— drawn together for the most part by mere curiosity. At night we were entertained with the "bomai," or night dances, on a space before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lasted about three hours, in which time we had about twelve of them performed, much after the same manner as those at Hapaee. But in two, that were perlormec'. by women, a number of men came and '"med a circle within theirs ; a'ld in an. - "onsisting of twenty-four men, Luc "> a number of motions with the hands luJ we had not seen before, and were highly applauded. The music was also once changed in the course of the night, and in one of the dances Feenou speared, at the hoad of f] '■*,}• men who had performed at Hapaes, irl he was well dressed with iiren, ;:, large piece of gauze, and Bom' b'Ule pictures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the diversions were closed, that we had put these poor people, or rather that they had put themselves, to much inconvenience ; for being drawn to- gether on this uninhabited part of their island, numbers of thera were obliged to lie down and sleep under the bushes, by the side of a tree, or of a canoe — na)', many either lay down in the open air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night. The whole of this entertain- ocd thi ch^ wh abij bio reel ■loJ Junk 1777.] THEFTS COMMITTED BY THE NATIVES. on inent was conducted with far better order than could hare been expected in so largo an assembly. Amongst such a multitude there must be a number of ill-disposed peoi)le, and we hourly experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plundering us in every quarter, and that in the most daring and insolent manner. There was hardly anything that they did not attempt to steal ; and yet, as the crowd was always so groat, I would not allow the sentries to fire, lest the innocent should suffer for the guilty. They once, at noon- day, ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the Discovery's bows, and they would certainly have suc- ceeded if the iluko had not hooked ono of the chain plates in lowering down the ship's side, from which they could not disengage it by hTd, and tocklos were tilings they were unacquainted with. The only act of violence they were guilty of was the breaking the shoulder-bone of one of our goats, so that she died soon after. This loss fell upon themselves, as she was one of those that I intended to leave upon the island ; but of this the person who did it was ignorant. Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident happened that strongly marked one of their customs. A man got out of a canoe into the quarter- Sllery of the Resolution, and stole >m thence a pewter basin. He was discovered, pursued, and brought alongside the ship. On this occasion three old women who were in the canoe made loud lamentations over the prisoner, beating their breasts and faces m a most N'iolent manner with the inside of their flsts, and all this was done without shedding a tear. This mode of expressing grief is what occasions the mark which almost all this people bear on the face over the cheeK -bones. The repeated blows which they inflict upon this part abrade the skin, and make even the blood flow out in a considerable quantity ; and when the wounds are recent they look as if a hollow circle had been burned in. On many occa- sions they actually cnt this part of the 181 face with an instrument, in the same manner as the people of Otalteite cut their heads. This day I bestowed on Mareewa* gee some presents in return for those we had received from him the day be- fore ; and as the nntertainmen Is which he had then exhibited for our amuse* ment called upon us to make some exhibition in our way, I ordered the party of marines to go through their exercise on the spot where his dances had been performed, and in the even* ing played oif some fireworks at the same place. FouUho, with all the principal chiefs, ai <* n great number of people of all denominations, were present The platoon firing, which was executed tolerably well, seemed to give them pleasure ; but they were lost in astonishment when they be- held our water rockets. They paid but little attention to the fife and drum, or French horns, that played during the intervals. The King sat behind everybody, because no one is allowed to sit behind him, and, that his view might not be obstructed, nobody sat imm tely before him ; but a lane, as it v>cfe, was made by the people from him quite down to the space allotted for the fireworks. In ex^)ectation of this evening show, the circle of natives about our tent being pretty large, they engaged the peatcst part of the afternoon in box* mg and wrestling ; the first of which exercises they call "fangatooa" and the second "fooboo." When any of them chooses to wrestle, he gets up from one side of the ring, and crosses the ground in a sort of measured pace^ clapping smartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and pro- duces a hollow sound ; that is reck- oned the challenge. If i^o person comes out from the opposite side to engage him, he returns in the same manner and sits down; but sometimes stands clapping in the midst of the ground to provoke some one to come out. If an opponent appear, they come together with marks of this greatest good-nature, generally sniil« ing, and taking time to adjust the piece of cloth which is fastened rooiid m COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. 11. Ch. VII. th« waist. They then lay hold of eiith other hy this girdle, with a band on each side ; and lie who succeeds in dra\'ing his antagonist to him, im- mediately tries to lift him upon his breast and throw him upon his back ; and if he be able to turn round with him t^vo or three times in that posi- tion before he throws him, his dex- terity never fails of procuring plau- dits from the spectators. If they be more equally matched, they close soon, and endeavour to throw each other by entwining their legs, or lift- ing each other from the ground, in which struggles they show a prodigi- ous exertion of strength, every mufcle, as it were, being ready to burst with straining. When one is thrown, he immediately quits the fi<;Id ; but the victor sits down for a few seconds, then gets up and goes to the side he came from, who proclaim tlie victory aloud, in a sentence delivered slowly and in a musical cadence. After sit- ting a short space, he rises again and challenges, when sometimes several antagonists make their appearance ; but he has tl'e privilege of choosing which of them he pleases to wrestle with, and has likewise the preference of challenging again, if he should throw his adversary, until he himself be vanquished ; and then the opposite side sing the song of victory in favour of their champion. It also often happens that five or six rise from each side and challenge together, in which case it is common to see three or four couple engaged on the field at once. But it is astonishing to see what temper they preserve in this exercise, for we observed no instances of their leaving the spot with the least displeasure in their countenances. When they find that tliey are so equally matched as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave off by mutual, consent. And if the fall of tone is not fair, or if it does not appear very clearly who has had the advantage, lx)th sides sing the victory, and then they engage again. But no pei-son who has been van- quished can engage with his conqueror « secoud time. The boxers advance sideways, changing the side at every pace, Avith one arm. stretched fully out before, the other behind, and holding a piece of cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it when they find an antagonist, or else have done so before they enter. This I imagine they do to prevent dislocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows are directed chiefly to the head, but sometimes to the sides, and are dealt out with great activity. They shift sides, and box equally well with both hands. But one of their favourite and most dex- terous blows is to turn round on their heel just as they have struck their antagonist, and to give him another very smart one with the other hand backward. The boxing matches sel- dom last long, and the parties either leave off together^ or one ackrow- ledges his being beaten. But they never sing the song of victory in these cases, unless one strikes his adversary to the ground, which shows, that of the two, wrestling is their most ap- proved diversion. Not only boys engage in both the exercises, but fre- quently little girls box very obstin- ately for a short time. In all which cases it does not appear that tlicy ever consider it as the smallest dis- grace to be vanquished ; and the i)er- son overcome sits down with as much indifference as if he had never entered the lists. Some of our people ven- tured to contend with them in botli exercises, but were always worsted, except in a few instances, where it appeared that the fear they were in of offending us contributed more to the victory than the superiority of the person tliey engaged. The cattle which we had brought, and which were all on shore, how- ever carefully guarded, I was sensible, ran no small risk, when I considered the thievish disposition of many of the natives, and tlieir dexterity in appropriating to themselves by stealth what they saw no prospect of obtain- ing by fair means. For this reason I thought it prudent to declare my in- tention of leaving behind me some of our animals, and even to make a dia- June 1777.] CONFINEMENT tribution of them previously to my departure. With this view, in the evening of the 19th, I assembled all the chiefs before our house, and my intended presents to them were marked out. To Poulaho, the King, I gave a young English bull and cow ; to Mareewagoe, a Cape ram and two ewes ; and to Fecnou a horse and a mare. As my design to make such a distribution had been made known the day before, most of the people in the neighbourhood were then present. I instructed Omai to tell them that there were no such animals within many mouths' sail of their island ; that we had brought them for their use from that immense distance, at a vast trouble and expense ; that therefore they must be careful not to kill any of them till they had multiplied to a numerous race ; and lastly, that they and their children ought to remem- ber tliat they had received them from tltcmen of "Britane." He also ex- plained to them their several uses, and what else was necessary for them to know, or rather as far as. he knew ; for Omai was not very well versed in such thing? himself. As I intended that the above presents should re- main with the other cattle till we were ready to sail, I desired each of the chiefs to send a man or two to look after their respective animals along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted with them, and with the manner of treat- ing them. The King and Fecnou did 80, but neither Mareewagee, nor any I other person for him> took tbe least notice of the sheep afterwards ; i;or did old Toobou attend at this meet- ing, though he was invited, and was in tilt) neighbourhood. I had meant to give him the goats, viz., a ram end tw;> eves, which, as he was so indif- ferent about them, I added to the King's share. it soon .. iared that some were dissatisfied with this allotment of our animals ; for early next morning one of our kids and two turk ey cocks were missing. I could not be so simple as to suppose that this was merely an ac- cidental loss ; and I was determined to OF POULAHO. 133 have them again. The first step I took was to seize on three canoes that hap- pened to be alongside the sliips. I then went ashore, and having found the King, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in the house that we occupied, 1 immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand that they must remain under restraint till not only the kid and the turkeys, but the other things that had been stolen from us, at dif- ferent times, were restored. They concealed, as well as thcj' could, their feelings on finding themselves pri- soners ; and having assured me that everything should be restored as I de- sired, sat down to drink their " kava, " seemingly much at their ease. It was not long before an axe and an iron wedge were brought to me. In the meantime some armed natives began to gather behind the house ; but on a part of our guard marching against them they dispersed, and 1 advised the chiefs t give orders that no mce should appear. Such orders were ac- cordingly given by them, and they were obeyed. On asking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they readily consented. But some having after- ward objected to the King's going, he instantly rose up and declared he would be the first man. Accordingly we came on board. I kept them there till near i o'clock, when 1 conducted them ashore, and soon after the kid and oue of the turkey cocks were brought back. The other, they said, should be restored the next morning. 1 believed this would happen, and re- leased both them and the canoes. After the chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai to observe how the l)eoplo about us fared, for this was the time of their meals. I found that in general they >vere at short commons. Nor is this to bo wondered at, since most of the yams and ether previsions which they brought with them were sold to us ; and they never thought of returning to their own habitations while they coi^ld find any sort of sub- sistence in our neighbourhood. Our stntijn was upon an uncultivated point of land, so tli&t there were none 134 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. On. VII. of the islandeiB wlio, properly, resided within half-a-mile of us. But oven at this distance, the multitude of strangers being so great, one might have expected that every house would have been much crowded. It was quite otherwise. The families resid- ing there were as much left to them- selves as if there had not been a supernumerary visitor near them. All the strangers lived in little temporary sheds, or under trees aad bushes ; and the cocoa-trees were strippd of their branches to erect habitations for the chiefs. In this walk we met with about half-a-do;:en women in one place at supper. Two of the company, I observed, being fed by the others, on our asking the reason they said " taboo mattee." On further inquiry we found that one of them had two month.i before washed the dead corpse of a chief, and that on this account she was not to handle any food for five months. The other had performed the same office to the corpse of an- other person of inferior rank, and was now under the same restriction, but not for so long a time. At another place hard by we saw another woman fed, and we learned that she had as- sisted in washing the corpse of the above-mentioned chief. Early the next morning tho King came on board to invite me to an entertainment which he proposed to give the same day. He had already been under the barber's hands, his bead being all besmeared with red pigment in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown solourJ After breakfast I attended him to the shore, and we found his people very busy, in two places in the front of our area, fixing in an up- right and square position, thus [I „], four very long posts near two feet from each other. The space between the posts was afterwards filled up with yams, and as they went on filling it, they fastened pieces of sticks across from post to post at the distance of about CT ery four feet, to prevent the posts from separating by the weight of tlie enclosed yams, and also to get up by. When the yams bad reached the top of the first posts, they fastened others to them, and so continued tiU each pile was the height of thirty feet or upwards. On the top of one they placed two baked hogs, and on the top of the other a living one ; and another they tied by the legs half- way up. It was matter of curiosity to observe wth what facility and de- spatch these two piles were raised. Had our seamen been ordered to exe- cute such a work, they would have sworn that it could not be perlbrnied without carpenters ; and tlio carpen- ters would have called to their aid a dozen dilferent sorts of tools, and have expended at least a hundred- weight of nails ; and after all it would have employed tliem as many days as it did these people hours. But sea-, men, like most other amphibious ani- mals, are always tho most helpless on land. After they had completed these two piles, they made several other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each side of the area, to which were added a turtle and a largo quantity of excel- lent fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and some red featliers, was the King's present to me ; and he seemed to pique himself on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality which I experienced at Hapaee. About 1 o'clock they began the "mai," or dances, the first of which was almost a copy of the first that was exhibited at Mareewagee's enter- tainment. The second was conducted by Captain Furneaux'a Toobou, who^ as we mentioned, had also danced there ; and in this four or five women were introduced, who went through the several parts with as much exact- ness as the men. Towards the end, the performers divided to leave room for two champions, who exercised their clubs, as described on a former occasion. And in the third dance, which was the last now presented, two more men with their clubs displayed their dexterity. The dances were succeeded by wrestling and boxing, and one man entered the lists with » sort of club made from tho stem of a cocoa-leaf, which is firm and heavy, but could find no antagonist to engagt JtmEl777.] SOME OF THE OFFICERS PLUNDERED. 185 him at so rough a sport. At night Vi had the " boraai " repeated, in which Poulahohimself danced, dressed in English manufacture. But neither tliese nor the dances in the daytime Avere so considerable, nor carried on with so much spirit, as Feenou's or Mareewagee'a; and therefore there is less occasion to be more particular in our description of them. In order to be present the whole time, I dined ashore. The King sat down with us, but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was owing to the presence of a female v;hom, at his desire, I had admitted to the dining party, and who, as we after- wards understood, had superior rank to himself. As soon as this great -!* e still, however, had thievis abou . us; and, encouraged by tlie negliponce of our own people, we had cor binnal instances of their de- prcd'-ciona. Some of the officers be- longing to both ships, who had made an excursion into the interior parts cf tha island without my leave, and ind'- ' without my knowledge, re- tt: - i't . Miis evening, after an absence ot t". :>i 8. They had taken with thciii IT mii.-kets, with the neces- sary ammunition, and several small articles of the favourite commodities ; all which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them in the course of their expedition. This affair was likely to be attended with incou- venient consequences. For our plun- dered travellers, upon their return, without consulting me, employed Omai to complain to the King of the treatment they had met with. He, not knowing what step I should take, and, from what had already happened, fearing lest I might lay him again under restraint, went off earlv the next morning. His example was fol- lowed by Feenou ; so that we had not a chief of any authority remaining in our neighbourhood. I was very much displeased at this, and repri- manded Omai for having presumed to meddle. This reprimand put him upon his metal to bring his friend Feenou back ; and he succeeded in the negotiation, having this powerful argiiment to urge, that he m ight depend upon my using no violent me-asures to oblige the natives to restore what had been taken from the gentlemen. Fee- nou, trusting to this declaration, re- turned toward the evening ; and, encouraged by his reception, Poulaho favoured us with his company the day after. Both these chiefs, upon this occa- sion, very justly observed to me that if any of my people at any time wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with it ; in which case they would send proper people along with them, and then they would be answerable for their safety. And I am convinced from experience that, by taking this very reasonable pre- caution, a man and his property may be as safe among these islanders as in other parts of the more civilised world. Though I gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's interposition, were recovered, except d to be almost close by the house, and was much more extensive, and seem- ingly of more consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told tliat it belonged to the King. It consisted of three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, or rather just by the brink of it, with a small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The mid- dle house of the three first was by much the largest, and placed in a square, twenty-four paces by twenty- eight, raised about three feet. The other houses were placed on little mounts raised artificially to the same height. The floors of these houses, as also the tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loose, fme pebbles, and the whole was enclosed by large fiat stones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, plaoed on their edges; one of which stones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. One of the houses, contrary to what we had seen before, was open on one side; and within it were two rude wooden busts «/f men, one near the entrance and the r>ther farther in. On inquiring of the natives who had followed us to the ground, but diu^t not enter here, what these images were intended for, they made us as sensible as we could wish, that they were merely memo- rials of some chiefs who had been buried there, and not the representa- tions of any deity. Such monument*, rue jTmBl777.] AT POULAHO'S HOUSE. 187 it should seem, are seldom raised ; for these had probably been erected several ages ago. We were told that the dead had been buried in each of these hoiues; but no marks of this appeared. In one of them was the carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. At the foot of the rising ground was a large area or grass plot, with diiferent trees planted about it; amongst which were several of those called "etoa," very large. These, as they resemble the cypress, had a fine effect in bU' U a place. There was also a row of low Ealms near one of the houses, and be- ind it a ditch in which lay a great number of old baskets. After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourselves with some provi- sions which we had brought with us from our ship, wo made an excursion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by one of the King's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not suffer the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met upon our pro- gress to sit down till we had passed ; which is a mark of respect due only to their sovereigns. We found by far the greatest part of the country cul- tivated, and planted with various sorts of prc-'".ctious; and most of these plantations were fenced round. Some spots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced nothing, lying fallow ; and there were places that had never been touched, but lay in a state of nature; and yet even these were Useful in affording them timber, as they were generally covered with trees. We met with several large uninhabited houses, which, we wore told, belonged to the King. There were many public and well- beaten roads, and abundance of foot- paths leading to every part of the islanr^. The roads being good and the country level, travelling was very easy. It is remai'kable that when wo were on the most elevated parts, at least 100 feet above the level of the sea, we often met with the same coral ruck which is found at the shore, pro- jecting above the surface, and perfor- ated and cut into all those inequalitiei which are usually seen in rocks that lie within the wash of the tide. And yet these very spots, with hardly any soil upon them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were con- ducted to several little pools and to some springs of water ; but in general they were cither stinking or brackish, though recommended to us by the natives as excellent. The former were mostly inland, the latter near the shore of the bay and below high-water mark; so that tolerable water conld be taken up from them only when the tide was out. When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked after the method of these islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread upon the fioor, and cloth to cover us. The King, who had made himself very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the same house, as well as several others of the natives. Long before daybreak he and they all rose, and sat conversing by moon- light. The conversation, as might well be guessed, turned wholly upon us, the King eutei-taining his company with an account of what he had seen or remarked. As soon as it was day, they dispersed, some one way and some another ; but it was not Ions before they all returned, and with them several more of their country- men. They now began to prepare a bowl of " kava ; " and leaving them so employed, I went to pay a visit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend, who had a house hard by, which for size and neatness was exceeded by few in the place. As I had left the others, so I lound here a company pre- paring a morning draught. This chief made a present to me of a living hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large piece cf cloth. When I returned to the King, I found him 188 and his circle of attendants drinking the second bowl of "kava." That being emptied, he told Omai that he was going presently to perform a mourning ceremony, called "tooge," ou account of a son who had been dead some time, and he desired us to accompany him. We were glad of the opportunity, expecting to see somewhat naw or curious. The first thing the chief did was to step out of the house, attended by two old "^omen, and put on a now suit of clothes, or rather a new piece of cloth, and over it an old ragged mat that might have served his great- grandfather on some such occasion. llis servants, or those who attended him, were all dressed in the same manner, excepting that none of their mats could vie in antiquity with that of their master. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten persons, all in the above habits of ceremony, each of them besides having a small grjen bough about his neck. Foulaho held his bough in his hand till we drew near the place of rendezvous, when he also put it about his neck. We now entered a small enclosure, in which was a neat house, and we found one man sitting be ''ore it. As the company entered, they pulled oflf the green branches from round their necks and threw them •way. The King having first seated himself, the others sat down before iim in the usual manner. The circle ncreased, by others dropping in, to Ae number of 100 or upwards, mostly old men, all dressed as aoove described. The company being completely as- sembled, a large root of " kava," brought by one of tlie King's servants, was produced, and a bowl which con- tained four or five gallons. Several persons now began to chew the root, and this bowl was made brim-full of liquor. While it was preparing, otners were employed in making drinking-cups of plantain leaves. The first cup that was filled was presented to the King, and he ordered it to be given to another person. The second was also brought to him, which he drank, and the third was ofiered to COOK'S VOYAGES. |15pY. III. B. 11. Ch, VHL me. Afterward, as each cup was filled, the man who filled it asked who was to have it. Another then named the person, and to him it was carried. As the bowl grew low, th« man who distributed the liquor seemed rather at a loss to whom cups of it should be next sent, and frequently consulted those who sat near him. This mode of distribution continued while any liquor remained, and though not half the company had a share, yet no one seemed dissatisfied. About half-a-dozen cups served for all, and each, as it was emptied, was thrown down upon the ground, where the servants picked it up and carried it to be filled again. During the whole time the chief and his circle sat, as was usually the case, with a great deal of gravity, hardly speaking a word to each other. We had long waited in expectation each moment of seeing the mourning ceremony begin, when, soon after the "kava was drank out, to our great surprise and disappointment they all rose up and dispersed, and Foulaho told us he was now ready to attend us to the ships. If this was a mourning cere* mony, it was a strange one. Perhaps it was the second, third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might have misun* derstood what Poulaho said to him. For, excepting the change of dress and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing seemed to have passed at this meeting but what we saw them practise too frequently every day. As soon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left Mooa and set out to return to the ships. While we rowed down the lagoon or inlet, we met witb two canoes coming in from fishing. Poulaho ordered them to be called alongside our boat, and took from them every fish and shell they had got. He afterwards stopped two other canoes and searched them, but they had nothing, Why thin was done I cannot say, for we hsid plenty of pro- visions in the boat. Some of this fish he gave to me, and his servants sold the rest on board the ship. As we July 1777.] NATIVES FIRED AT BY A SENTINEL. proceeded down the inlet we over- took a large sailing canoe. Every person on board her that was upon Lis legs when we came up sat down till we had passed, even the man who steered, though he could not manage the helm except in a stand- ing posture. when we got on board the ship I found that everything had been quiet during my absence, not a theft having been committed, of which Feenou and Futtafaihe, the King's brother, who had undertaken the management of his co: irynien, boasted not a little. Thv- allows what power the chiefs have when they have the will to execute it, which we were seldom to expect, since ^atever was stolen from us generally , if not always, was conveyed to them. The good con- duct of the natives was of short dura- tion, for the next day six or eight of them assaulted some of our people who were sawing planks. They were fired upon by the sentry, and one was supposed to be woimded and three others taken. These I kept confined till night, and did not dismiss them witliout punishment. After this they behaved with a little more circumspec- tion, and gave us much less trouble. This change of behaviour was cer- tainly occasioned by the man being wounded, for before they had only been told of the effect of firearms, but now they had felt it. The repeated insolence of the natives had induced me to order the muskets of the sen- tries to be loaded with small shot, and to authorise them to fire on par- ticular occasions. I took it for granted, therefore, that this man had only been wounded with small shot. But Mr King and Mr Anderson, in an ex- cursion into the country, met with him, and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded, but not dangerorsly, with a musket ball. I never could find out how this musket happened to be charged with ball, and there were people enough ready to swear that its contents were only ■mall shot. ^ * Mr Anderson's accouut of the ex- 139 I had prolonged my stay at thia island on account of the approaching eclipse ; but on the 2d of July, on looking at the micrometer belonging to the Board of Longitude, I found some of the rack-work broken, and the instrument useless till repaired, which there was not time to do before it was intended to be used. Prepar- ing now for our departure, I got on board this day all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except such aa were destined to remain. I had de- signed to leave a turkey cock and hen ; but having now only two of each undisposed of, one of the hens, through the ignorance of one of my people, was strangled, and died upon the spot. I had brought three tur- key hens to these islands. One was killed as above mentioned ; and ths other by a useless dog belonging to on» of the tficers. These two ace idents put it out of my power to leave a pair here, and at the same time to carry the breed to Otaheite, for which island they were originally intended. I was sorry afterwards tliat I did not givt the preference to Tongataboo, as the present would have been of more value there than at Otaheite ; for the natives of the former island, 1 am persuaded, would have taken more pains to mul- tiply the breed. The next day we took up our anchor, and moved the ships behind Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the first favourable wind to get through the narrows. The King, who was one of our company this day at dinner, I observed took particular notice of the plates. This occasioned me to make him an offer of one, either of pewter or of earthenware. He chose the first, and then began to tell us the seveml uses to which he in- tended to apply it. Two of them are so extraordinary that I cannot omit mentioning them. He said that> whenever he sliould have occasion to visit any of the other islands, he would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a sort of representa- cursion just mentioned, containing little or nothing now, is omittfd. 140 tive iu Ids absence, that the people might pay it the same obeisance they do to nimself in person. He was asked what had been usually employed for this purpose before he got this {date ; and we had the satisfaction of earning from him that this singular honour had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands. The other extraordinary use to wliich he meant to apply it, in the room of his wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said that when anything was stolen, and the thief could not be found out, the people were all assembled together before him, when he washed his hands in water in this vessel ; after which it was cleaned, and then the whole mul- titude advanced, one after another, and touched it in the same manner that they touch his foot when they pay him obeisance. If the guilty per- son touched it, he died immediately upon the spot, not by violence, but by the hand of Providence ; and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal was a clear proof that he was the man. In the morning of the 6th, the day of the eclipse, the weather was dark and cloudy, with showers of rain, so that we had lilt hopes of an obser- vation. About 9 clock the sun broke out at intervals for about half- an-hour; after which it was totally obscured till within a minute or two of the beginning of the eclipse. We were all at our telescops, viz., Mr Bayly, Mr King, Captain Gierke, Mr Bligh, and myself. I lost the obser- vation by not having a dark glass at hand suitable to the clouds that were continually passing over the sun ; and Mr Bligh had not got the sun into the field of his telescope ; so that the commencement of the eclipse was only observed by the other three gentle- men, and by them, with an uncer- tainty of several seconds, as follows : Ho.Min. Seo. By Mr Bayly, at 11 46 234 Mr King, at 11 46 28 Capt. Gierke, at 11 47 fi Apparent time. Mr Bayly and Mr King observed COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. IT. Cn. IX. with the achromatic telescopes b** longing to the Board of Longitude, of equal magnifying powers ; and Gap- tain Gierke observed with one of the reflectors. The sun appeared at in- tervals till about the middle of the eclipse ; after which it was seen no more during the day, so that the end could not be observed. The disap- pointment was of little consequence, since the longitude was more than sufiiciently determined, independently of this ecUpse, by lunar observation*. As soon as we knew the eclipse to be over, we packed up the instruments, took down the observatories, and sent everything on board that had not been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the least notice or care of the three sheep allotted to Mareewagee, I ordered them to be carried back to the ships. I was appreh sive that if I had left them here they run great risk of being de- stroyed by dogs. kThat animal did not exist upon this island when I first visited it in 1773 ; but I now found they had got a good many, partly from the breed then left by myselt, and partly from some imported since that time from an island not very re- mote, called Feejee. The dogs, how- ever, at present had not found their way into any of the Friendly Islands except Tongataboo ; and none but the chiefs there had as yet got possession of any.* CHAPTER IX. We were now ready to sail ; but the wind being easterly, we had not sufficient daylight to turn through the narrows, either with the morning or with the evening flood ; the one falling out too early, and the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were under a necessity of waiting two or three days. I took * The remainder of the Chapter, taken up by Mr Anderson's notes on the physical formation and features and natural products of Tongataboo or Amsterdam Island in oTnit t-Ml July 1777.] SOLEMNITY IN HONOUR OF KING'S SON. the opportunity of this delay to bo present at a public solemnity to which the King had invited us when we went last to visit him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. With a view to this, he and all the people of note quitted our neighbourhood on the 7th, and re- paired to Mooa, where tlie solemnity was to be exhibited. A ^larty of us followed them the next morn 'ng. We understood from what Poulaho had said to us that his son and heir was now to be initiated into certain privi- leges; amongst which was that of eating with his father, an honour he Lad not as yet been admitted to. We arrived at Mooa about 8 o'clock, and found the King with a large circle of attendants sitting before him, with- in an enclosure so small and dirty as to excite my wonder that any such could be found in that neighbourhood. They were intent upon their usual morning occupation, in preparing a bowl of "kava." As this was no liquor for us, we walked out to visit some of our friends, and to observe what preparations might be making for the ceremony which was soon to begin. About 10 o'clock, the people began to assemble in a large area which is before the ' * malaee, " or great house, to which we had been con- ducted the first time we visited Mooa. At the end of a road that opens into this area stood some men with spears and clubs, who kept constantly recit- ing or chanting short sentences in a mournful tone, which conveyed some idea of distress, and as if they called for something. This was continued about an hoiir ; and in the meantime many people came down the road, each of them bringing a yam tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the persons who con- tinued repeating the sentences. While this was going on, the King and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area ; and we were desired to sit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their 141 shoulders. After forming themselvea into companies of ten or twelve per- sons each, they marched across the place with a quick pace ; each com- pany headed by a man bearing a club or spear, and guarded on the right by several others armed with diiferent weapons. A man carrying a living pigeon on a perch closed tlie rear of the procession, in which about 260 peraons walked. Omai was desired by me to ask the chief to what place the yams were to be thus carried with so much solem- nity. But, as he seemed unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two «r three of us followed the pro- cession, contrary to his inclination. We found that they stopped before a " morai " or *• fiatooka " of one house, standing upon a mount, which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the Slaco where they first assembled, [ere we observed them depositing the yams, and making them up into bundles ; but for what purpose we could not learn. And as our presence seemed to give them uneasiness, we left them and returned to Poulaho, who told us we might amuse ourselves by walking about, as nothing would bo done for some time. The fear of losing any part of the ceremon* pre- vented our being long absent. Wlien we returned to the King, he desired me to order the boat's crew not to stir from the boat ; for as everything would very soon be "taboo," if any of our people, or of their own, should be found walking about, they would be knocked down with clubs, nay, "ma- teed," that is, killed. He also ac- quainted us that we could not be present at the ceremony ; but that we should be conducted to a place A?here we might see everything that passed. Objections were made to our dress. We were told that to qualify us to be E resent it was necessary that we should e naked as low as the breast, with our hats off and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to these requisites, and began to strip ; other objections were then started, so that the exclu- sion was given to liim equally with ourselves. 142 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Toy. III. B. II. Ch. IX, I did not much like this restriction, and therefore stole out to see what might now be going forward. I found very few people stirring, except those dressed to attend the ceremony ; some of whom had in their hands small poles about four feet long, and to the under-part of those were fast- ened two or three other sticks, not bigger than one's finger, and about six inches in length. These men were going toward the "moral "just mentioned. I took the same road, and was several times stopped by them, all crying out " taboo.' How- ever, I went forward without much regarding them, till I came in sight of the "morui," and of the people who were sitting before it. I was now urged very strongly to go back ; and not knowing what might be the con- sequence of a refusal, I complied. I had observed that the people who carried the poles passed this "moral," or what I may as well call temple ; and guessing from this circumstance thatsomethingwas transacting beyond it which might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing, by making a round, for this purpose ; but I was so closely watched by three men that 1 could not put my design in execution. In order to shake these fellows ofif^ I returned to the "ma- laee " where I had left the King, and from thence made an elopement a second time ; but I instantly met the same three men, so that it seemed as if they had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard to what they said or did, till I came within sight of the King's principal "fia- tooka" or "moral," which I have already described,^ before which a Keat number of men were sitting, ing the same persons whom I hul just before seen pass by the other "morai," from which this was but a little distant. Observing that I could watch the proceedings of this company from the King's plantation, I repaired thither, very much to the Mtisfaction of those who attended me. ^ In the Chapter immediately pre- ceding. As soon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me from the ships with what I had seen ; and we took a proper station to watch the result. "The number of peojple at the "fiatooka" continued to mcrease for some time ; and at len^h we could see them quit their sittmg posture and march off in pro* cession. They walked in pairs, one after another, every pair carrying be- tween them one of the small poles above mentioned, on their shoulders. We were told that the small pieces of sticks fastened to the poles were yams ; so that probably they were meant to represent this root emblema- tically. The hindmost man of each couple, for the most part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if without this additional support it were not strong enough to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all seemed to bend as they walked. This pro> cession consisted of 108 pairs, and all or most of them men of rank. They came close by the fence behind which we stood ; so that we had a full view of them. Having waited here till they had all passed, we then repaired to Poulaho's nouse, and saw him going out. We could not be allowed to follow him ; but wei;p forthwith conducted to the place al- lotted to us, which was behind a fence adjoining to the area of the •' fiatooka" ivhere the yams had been deposited in the forenoon. As we were not the only people who were excluded from being publicly present at this ceremony, but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good deal of company ; and I ob- served that all the other enclosures round the place were filled with people. And yet all imaginable caro seemed to be taken that they should see as little as possible ; for the fences had not only been repaired that morn- ing, but in many places raised higher than common, so that the tallest man could not look over them. To remedy this defect in our station, we toolc the liberty to cut holes in the fenoe with our knives ; and by this moanii July 1777.1 PROCESSIONS AND CEREMONIES. we could see pretty distinctly every- thing that was transacting on the other side. On our arrival at our station, we found two or three hundred people sitting on the grass near the end of the road that opened into the area of the " moral;" and the number continually increased by others join- ing them. At length arrived a few men carrying some sm U poles, and branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree ; upon their flrst appearance an old man seated himself in the road, and with his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a serious tone. He then retired bock, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to erect a small shed, employ- ing for that purpose the materials above mentioned. When they had finished their work, they all squatted down for a moment before it, then rose up and retired to the rest of the company. Soon after came Poulaho's son, preceded by four or five men, and they seated themselves a little aside from the shed, and rather behind it. After them appeared twelve or four- teen women of the first rank, walking slowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. These marched up to the prince, squatted down before him, and, having wrapped some of the pieces of the cloth they had brought, round his body, they rose up and re- tired in the same order to some dis- tance on his left, and there seated themselves. Poulaho himself soon made his appearaifce, preceded by four men, who walked two and two abreast, and sat down on his son's left band, about twenty paces from him. The young prince then quitting his first position, went and sat down under the shed with his attend- ants ; and a considerable number more placed themselves on the grass before this royal canopy. The prince himself sat facing the people, with his back to the "morai. This being done, three companies of ten or a dozen men in each started up from amongst th« large crowd, a 14)) little after each other, and mnning hastily to the opposite side of the area, sat down for a few seconds ; after which they returned in the same manner to their former stations. To them succeeded two men, each of whom held a small green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the prince, sitting down for a few seconds, three diflercnt times as they advanced ; and then, turning their backs, retired in the same manner, inclining their branches to each other as they sat. In a little time two more repeated this ceremony. The grand procession which I had seen march ofi" from the other ' ' moral " now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made, from the time they had been absent, it must have been pretty large. As they en- tered the area they marched up to the right of the shed, and, having pro- strated themselves on tlie gross, de- posited their pretended burthens (the poles above mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then ros« up and retired in the same order, closing their hands, which they held before them, with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band were coming in and depositing their poles, three men who sat under the shed with the prince continued pronouncing separate sentences in a melancholy tone. After this a profound silence ensued for a little time, and then a man, who sat in the front of the area, began an oration (or prayer), during which, at several different times, he went and broke one of the poles which had been brought in by those who had walked in procession. When he had ended, the people sitting before tho shed separated to make a lane through which the prince and his attendants Eassed, and the assembly broke up. ome of our party, satisfied with what they had already seen, now returned to the ships ; but I and two or three more of the officers remained at Mooa to see the conclusion of the solemnity, which was not to be till the next day, being desirous of omitting no oppor^ 144 tuj^ity wnich tnigbt afford any infor- mation about the religious or the poli- tical institutions of this people. The small sticks or poles which had been brought into the area by those who walked in procession, being left lying on the ground after the crowd hod dispersed, I went and examined them. 1 found that to the middle of each two or three small sticks were tied, as has been related. Yet wa had been repeatedly told by the natives who stood near us that they were young yams, insomuch that some of our gentlemen believed them rather than their own eyes. As I had the de< monstration of my sensos to saiisfy me that they were no^ real yai as, it is clear that we ouglit to have under- stood that they were only the artificial representations of these roots. Our supper was got ready about ! o'clock. It consisted of fish and yams. "We mij^ht have had pork also ; but we did not choose to kill a large hog which the King had given to us for that purpose, lie supped with us, and drank pretty freely of brandy and water; so that he went to bed with a sufficient dcse. We passed the night in the same house with him and several' of his attend- ants. About 1 or 2 o'clock in the moruu^g -hey waked and conversed for about aa hour, and then went t^ sleep again, All but Poulaho him- self rose at day-break, and went I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one of those who generally attended upon the chief, came in and inquired where he was. I pointed him out to her, and she immediately sat down by him, and began the same operation which Mr Anderson had seen practised upon Futtafaihe, tap- ping or beating gently with her clenched fists on his thighs. This, instead of prolonfrl <\g his sleep as was intended, nad the contrary effect ; however, though he awaked, he con- tinued to lie down. Omai and I now went to visit the prince, who had parted from us early in the evening. Tor he did not lodge with the King, but in apartments of his own, or at least such as had been allotted to COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III.B.II.Ch.IX. him, at some distance from hia father's house. We found him with a circle of boys, or youths, about his own age, sitting before him ; and an old woman and an old man, who seemed to have the oare of him, sit- ting behind. There wore others, both men and women, employed about their necessary affairs in different de- payments, who probably belonged to his uousehold. From the prince we returned to the King. By tliis time he had got up, and na'i o. crowded circle before liirn, composed chiefly of old men. While a Iwge bowl of "kava " was prepar- ing, a baked hog and yams, smoking hot, were brought in, tht greatest part ot which fell to our share, and was very acceptable tc the boat's crew; for these people eat very little in the morning, especially the " kava" drinkei-s. I afterward walked out and visited several other chiefs ; and found that all of them were taking their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the King, I found him asleep in a small retired hut, with two women tapping on his breech. About 11 o'clock he arose again ; and then some fish and yams, which tasted as if they had beea shewed in cocoa-nut milk. Were brought to him. Of these he ate a large portion, and lay down once more to sleep. , I now left him, and c&n-ied to the prince a present of cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the sliip for the purpose. There was a suffi- cient quantity of cloth to make him a complete suit ; and he was immedi- ately decked out with it. Proud of his dress, he first went to show him- self to his father, and then conducted me to his mother ; with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a respectable appearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me a present of two pieces of the cloth maaufactured in the island. By this time it was past noon, when by ap- pointment I repaired to the palace to dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned this morning from the ships ; and we were all invitod to the of ot TlTLT 1777.] foant, which was presently served up, and consisted of two pigs and yams. I roUsod the drowsy monarch to par- take of what he Lad provided for our entcrtuinmcnt. In the meantime two mullets and some shell-fish were brought to him, as I supposed, for his separate portion. But he joined it to our fare, sat down with us, and made a hearty meal. When dinner was over, wo were told that the ceremony would soon begin, and were strictly enjoined not to walk out. I had resolved, how- ever, to peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with the actors themselves if possible. With this view I stole out from the planta- tion, and walked toward the "morai," the scene of the solemnity. I was several times desired to go back by people whom I met; but I paid no regard to them, and they suffered me to pass on. When I arrived at the "morai," I found a number of men seated on the side of the area, on each side of the road that leads up to it. A few were sitting on the opposite side of tlie area, and two men in the middle of it, with their faces turned to the "morai." When I got into the midst of the first companv, I was desired to sit down, which I accordingly did. Where I sat there were lying a num- ber of small bundles or parcels, com- posed of cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to sticks made into the form of hand- barrows. All the information I could get about them was that they were "taboo." Our number kept contin- ually increasing; every one coming from the same quarter. From time to time, one or another of the com- iany turned himself to those who were coming to join us, and made a short speech ; in which I could remark that the word "arakee," that is. King, was generally mentioned. One man said something that produced bursts of hearty laughter from all the crowd ; others of the speakers met with public applause. I was several times de- sired to leave the place ; and at last, when they found that I would not stir, after some seeming consultation they CONTINUATION OP THE CEREMONIES. 146 applied to me to uncover my sliouldera as theirs were. With this requ^tst I complied, and then they seemed tr be no longer uneasy at my presence. I sat a full hour without anythins more going forward, beside what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the King all came in, as they had done the day before. The prince being placed ander the shed, after his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat, came repeating some- thing serioiisly, and put them about him. The assembled people now began their operations; and first throe companies ran backwards and forwards across the area, as described in the account of the proceedings of the former day. Soon' after, the two men who sat in the middle of the arep made a short speech or prayer ; and then the whole bo ' amongst whom I had my place st; aed up, and ran and seated tnemselves before the shed under which the prince and three or four men were sitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the company, who seemed very assiduous to serve me. By his means I was placed in such a situation, that if I had been allowed to make use of my eyes, nothing that passed could have escaped me. But it was neces- sary to sit wii;h down-cast looks, and demure as inaids. Soon after, the {>rocei>sion came in, as on the day icfore ; each two persons bearing on their shoulders a pole, round the middle of which a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. These were deposited with ceremonies similar to th^se observed on tlie preceding day. Jhis first pro« cession was followed by a second ; the men composing which brought baskets such as are usually employed by this peot)le to carry provisions in, and made of palm leaves. These were followed by a third procession, in which were brought different kinds of small fish, each fixed at the end of a forked stick. The baskets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the chief priest, and who sat on the prince's right hand, with- out the shed. He held eaeh in his »H6 hand, while he made a short speech or prayer; then laid it down and called for another, repeating the same words as before; and thus he went through the whole number of baskets. The fish were presented, one by one, on the forked sticks, as they came in, to two men who sat on the left, and who till now held green branches in their hands. The first fish they laid down on their right, and the second on their left. When the third was presented, a stout-looking man who sat behind the other two reached his arm over between them and made a snatch at it; as also did the other two at the very same time. Thus they seemed to contend for every fish that was presented ; but as there were two hanas against one, besides the advantage of situation, the man be- hind got nothing but pieces ; for be never quitted his hold till the fish was torn out of his hand, and what little remained in it he shook out behind him. The others laid what they got on the ri^ht and left alternately. At length, either by accident or design, the man btihiud got possession of a whole fish without either of the other two so much as touching it. At this the woid " Mareeai," which signifies " Very good ! " or " Well done 1 " was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It seemed that he had performed now all that was expected iVom him, for he made no attempt upon the few fish that came after. These fish, aiii also the baskets, were ftU delivered, by the persons who brought them in, sitting ; and in the «rme order and manner the small poles, which the first procession car- rie'^, had been lai<' upon the ground. The last procession being closed, there was some speaking or praying by different persons. Then on some signal being given, we all started up, ran sevcnii paces to the left, and sat down witi- our backs to the prin-e and tho few who remained with him. I was desired not to look behind nie. However, ne.'ther this injunction, nor the remembrance of Lot's wife, di*- coural;J^;d me from facin."? about, i sow saw that the priiice had turned COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. 11. Cn.IX, his face to the "morai:" hnt thin last movement had brought so many people between him and me, that I oould not perceive what was doing. I was afterward assured that at this very time the prince was admitted to the high honour of eating with hia father, which till now had never been permitted to him ; a piece of roasted yam being presented to each of thera for this pui-pose. This was the mora probable, as we had been told before- hand that this was to happen during the solemnity ; and as all the people turned their backs to them at this tiiL9, which they always do wlieu their monarch eats. After some littltt time we all faced about, and formed % semicircle before the prince, leaving a large open spacebetween us. Presently there appeared some men coming to- ward us, two and two, bearing large sticks or poles upon their shouldeia, making a noise that might be called singing, and waving their hands aa they advanced. When they had got close up to us, they made a show of walking very fast, without proceeding a single step. Immediately after, three or four men started up from the crowd, with large sticks m their hands, who ran toward those new- comers. The latter instantly threw down the poles from their shoulders and scampered off ; and the others attacked the poles, and, having beat them most unmercifully, returned to their places. As the pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is usual here in wrestling ; and not long after, a number of stout fellows came from the same quarter, repeating the challenge as they ar* vanced. These were opposed by a party who came from the opposite side almost at the same instant. The two parties par- ade! about the area for a few minutes, and then retired each to tl oir own side. After this there were wrestling and boxing matches for about half-an- hour. Then two men seated them- selves before the prince, and mad» speeches addressed, as I thought* entirely to hiiu. With this th« solemnity ended, and the whole as- sembly broke up. /m,Y 1777.] REMARKS ON NATURE OF CEREMONIES. U7 I nowwent and examined theseveral baskets which had been presenUxl ; » curiosity that I was not allowed before to indulge, because everything was then "taboo." But the solemnity being now over, they becatno simply what I found them to bo, empty baskets. So that whatever they were supposed to coiitaxn wa.<3 emWemati- caily represented. And so indeed was every other thing which had been brought in procession except the fish. "We ene after ano^^her to desire me to come back. Probably the^e messengers were not admitted to the place where I was ; for I saw nothing of them. At last intelligence was brought to the chief that 1 had actually stripped in conformity to their custom ; and then he told Omai that he might be present also, if he would comply with all the necessary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was required of him but to conform to the custom of his own country. Accordingly ho was furnished with a proper dress, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the natives. It is likely that one reason of our being excluded at first was an apprehension that we would not submit to the rcquisitea to qualify tXB to assist. COOK'S VOYAGES. {Toy. III. B. II. Ch. IX. Whilel wasattendingthe "Natche** at Mooa, I ordered the horses, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither, tliinking that they would bo safer there, under the eyes of the chiefs, than at a place that would bo in a manner deserted the moment after our departure. Besides the above-mentioned animals, we left with our friends here a youn^ boar and three young sows of the English breed. They were exceedingly desir- ous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is rather small. Feenou also got from us two rabbits, a buck, and a doe; and before we sailed we were told that young ones had been already produced. If the cattle suc- ceed, of which I make no doubt, it will be a vast acquisition to these islands ; and as Tongataboo is a fine level country, tho horses cannot but be useful. [Weighing anchor on the morning of the 10th, the ships got with some diificulty through the channel, and did not weather the east end of Ton- gataboo before 10 o'clock next night. On the morning of the 12th they anchored off Middleburg Island, called by the natives Eooa, or English Road — the name Cook had given to his station in 1773.] We had no sooner anchored than Taoofa the chief* and several other natives visited us on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. In a little time I went ashore with him in search of fresh water, the procuring of which was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I had bet'n told at Tongataboo that there wtis here a stream running from the hills into the sea, but thu was not the case now. I was first conducted to a brackish spring, between low and high water mark amongst rocks in the cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I be- ^ In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he call* the only chief lie then met with at this place Tioony.— Note in Origiiuil Edition. lii than other scorned In th liim icuring that heen re wua le hills aecase to a id high le cove no one coking Ibe- JlTLY 1777.] liere the water of this spring might be good, were it possible to take it up before the tide mixes with it. Find- ing that we did not like this, our friends took us a little way into the island, where in a deep chasm we found very good water, which, at the expense of some time and trouble, might be conveyed down to the shore by means of spouts or troughs that could be made with plantain leaves and the stem of tlie tree. But rather than undertake that tedious task I resolved to rest contented with the supply the ships had got at Tongata- boo. Before I returned on board I set on foot a trade for hogs and yarns. Of the former we could procure but few, but of the latter plenty. I put ashore at this island the ram and two ewes of the Cape of Good Hope breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had given them, as before mentioned, slighted the present. Eooa, not having as yet got any dogs upon it, seems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep. As we lay it anchor, this island bore a very dif- ferent aspect from any we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher than any we had passed since leaving New Zea- land (as Kao may justly be reckoned an immense rock), and from its top, which is almost flat, declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles of this cluster ai-e level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover them ; but here the land, rising gently upward, presents us with an extensive prospect, where groves of trees are only interspersed at irregular distances in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with ^ass. Near the shore, again, it 18 quite shaded with various trees, amongst wliich are the liabitations of the natives ; and to the right of our station was one of the most ex- tensive groves of cocoa-palms we had «ver seen. . . . Soon after we weighed, and with a li^ht breeze at SK. stood out to sea ; ARRIVAL AT EOOA. 149 and then Taoofa and a few other natives that were in the ship left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found that the cable had suffered consider- ably by the rocks, so that the bottom in this road is not to be depended upon. Besides this, we experienced that a prodigious swell rolls in there from the S\V. We had not been long under sail before we observed a sail- ing canoe coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours alter, a small canoe, conducted by four men, came off to us, for as we had but little wind, we were still at no great distance from the land. These men told us that the sailing canoe whiclv. we had seen arrive from Tongatabo*. had brought orders to the people of Eooa to furnish us with a certain number of hogs, and that in two days the King and other chiefs would be with us. They therefore desired we would return to our former stii- tion. There was no reason to doubt the truth of what these men told us. Two of them had actually come from Tongii taboo in the sailing canoe, and they had no view in coming off to ua but to give this intelli^'ence. How- ever, as we were now c1 of the land, it was not a suHieient iiilncemont to bring me back, especially as we had already on board a stock of fresh pro- visions sulficient in all probability to last during our passage to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa's present, we had got a good quantity of yams at Eooa in exchange chiefly for small nails. Our supply of hogs was also considerably increased there, though doubtless we should have got many more if tho chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whose property they mostly were. At the approach of night these men, finding that we would not retnm, left us, as also some others who had ^ome off in two canoes with a few cocoa- nuts and shaddocks to exchange them for what they could get; the eager- ness of these people to get into their possession more of our commodities inducing them to follow the ships out to sea, and to continue their inter- course with r.a to tho last moment. 150 CHAPTER X.» Thus we took leare of the Friendly Islands and their inhabitants, after a Btay of between two and three months, during which time we lived together in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great projwnsity to thieving, but too often encouraged by the negligence of our own people. But these differ- ences were never attended with any fatal consequences, to prevent which all my measures were directed ; and I believe few on board our ships left our friends here without some regret. The time employed amongst them was not thrown away. We expended very little of our sea provisions, sub- sisting in general upon the produce of the islands while we stayed, and carrying away with us a quantity of refreshments sufficient to last till our arrival at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people, by leaving the useful animals before mentioned among them ; and at the same time those designed for Otaheite received fresh strength in the pastures of Tongata- boo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received by touching here were very great ; and I had the additional satisfaction to reflect that they were received without retarding one moment the prosecution of the great object of our voyage ; the season for proceeding to the north being, as * This, and the subsequent Chapter of Book XL, devoted to an account of the Friendly Isles and their inhabit- ants, although obstructing not a little the course of Cook's narrative, have been retained with some unimportant or desirable omissions, condensa- tions, and as giving, mainly from his own pen and nis own observation, a lively picture of one of the great Australasian communities which he first unveiled to the knowledge of the world. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. II. Ch. X. has been already observed, lost be* fore I took the resolution of bearing away for these islands. But besides the immediate advantages which both the natives of the Friendly Islands and ourselves received by this visit, future navigators from Europe, if any such should ever tread our steps, will profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philoso- Ehical reader, who love? U> view uman nature in new situations, and to speculate on singular but faithful representations of the persons, the customs, the arts, the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man in remote and fresh discovered quarters of the globe, will perhaps find matter of amusement, if not ol instruction, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him concerning the inhabitants of this archipelago. I shall suspend my narrative of the progi-ess of the voy- age, while I faithfully relate what I had opportunities of collecting on these several topics. [Best articles for traffic at Friendly Islands : iron, tools, and nails of all kinds, red cloth, linen, looking- glasses, and beads — useful and oma- ment?.I commodities not always sway- ing the market with equal power, though the useful have generally the preference. In exchange may be pro- curedhogs,fowl,fish,yams,bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, and everything that can be got at the Society Islands, though not all of equally goo(| quality. Good water is scarce, but indifrerent may be had on all the islands. ] Underthe denomination of Friendly Islands we must include not only the group at Hapaeo which I visited, but also all those islands that have been discovered nearly under the same meridian to the north, as well as some others that have never been seen hitherto by any European navi- gators, but are under tbi» dominion of Tongataboo, which, though not the largest, is tiie capital and seat of government. According to the in- formation that we received there, this July 1777.1 REMARKS ON FRIENDLY ISLANDS. m and at the t all of water ia ) had on archipelafto is very extensive. Above 150 islands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who ma^e use of bits of leaves to ascertain their number ; and Mr Anderson, with his usual dili- gence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or hilly, such as Toofoa and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them large. Of these only three were seen this voyage : Hapaee (which is considered by the natives as one island), Tongataboo, and Eooa ; of the size of the unex- glored thirty-two nothing more can e mentioned but that they must be all lai'ger than Annamooka, which those from whom we had our inform- ation ranked amongst the smaller isles. Some, or indeed several, of this latter denomination are mere spots without inhabitants.^ I have not the least doubt that Prince William's Islands, discovered and so named by Tasman, are in- cluded in the foregoing list. For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the natives told me that three or four days* sail from thence to the NW. there was a cluster of small islands consisting of upwards of forty. This situation corresponds very well with that assigned, in the accounts we have of Tasman's voyage, to his Prince William's Islands.' We have also very good authority to believe that Keppel's and Bos- cawon's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's di8c:)verie8 in 1765, are com- prehended in our list ; and that they are not only well known to these people, but are under the same sove- reign. The following information ^ Follows in the original a list of ninety-five islands of the group, men- tioned by the inhabitants of the islands which Cook visited : but we mercifully spare the reader the inflic- tion of the soft but unwieldy poly- syllables. '■^ Tasman saw eighteen or twenty of these small islands, every one of which was surroundeid with sands, shoals, and rocks. They are also called, in some charts, Heemskirk's Banks. — Note in Original Edition. seemed to me decisive as to this. Upon my inquiring one day of Pou- laho, the King, in what manner the inhabitants of Tongataboo had ac- quired theknowledgeof iron, andfrom what quarter thtyhad procured a small iron tool which I had seen amongst them when I first visited their island during my former voyage, he informed me that they had received this iron from an island which he called Nee- ootabootaboo. Carrying my inquiries further, I then desired to know whether he had ever been informed from whom the people of Neeoota- bootaboo had got it. I found him perfectly acquainted with its history. He said that one of these islanders sold a club for five nails to a ship which had touched there, and that these five nails afterwards were sent to Tongataboo. He added that this was the first iron known amongst them ; so that what Tasman left of that metal must have been worn out and forgotten lon^ ago. I was very particular in my inquiries about the situation, size, and form of the island ; expressing my desire to know when this ship had touched there, how long she stayed, and whether any more were in company. The leading facts appeared to be fresh in his memory. He said that there was but one ship ; that she did not come to an anchor, but left the island after her boat had been on shore. ^ And from many circumstances which' he mentioned, it could not be many years since this had happened. Ao« cording to his information, there are two islands near each other, which he himself had been at. The one he described as high and peaked like Kao, and he called it Kootahee ; the other, where the people of the ship landed, called Neeootabootaboo, he represented as much lower. He added that the natives of both are the same sort of people with those of Ton* gataboo, buut their canoes in the same manner, that their islands had hogs and fowls, and in general the same vegetable productions. ^ The ship so iwintedlv referred to in this conversation could be no other thea 152 the Dolphin ; COOK'S VOYAGES. the only single ship from Europe, as far as we have ever learned, tnat had touched of late years at any island in this part of the Pacific Ocean prior to my former visit to the Friendly Islands.'^ But the most considerable islands in this neighbourhood that we now heard of (and we heard a great deal abov^t them) are Hamoa, VavaoOk and Feejee. Each of these was represented to us as larger than Tongataboo. "So European that we know of has as yet seen any one of them. Tasiuan, indeed, lays down in his chart an. island nearly in the situation where I suppose Vavaoo to be ; that is, about the Latitude of 19°. But then that island is there marked as a very small one ; whereas Vavaoo, according to il;3 united testimony of all our friends at Tongataboo, exceeds the size of their own island^ and has high moun- tains. I should certainly have visited it, and have accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if he had not then discour- aged me by representing it to be very inconsiderable and withiout any har- bour. But Poulaho, the King, after- wards assured me that it was a large island, and that it not Qnly produced everything in common with Tonga- taboo, but had the peculiar advantage of possessing several streams of fresh water, with as good a harbour as that which we found at his capital island. He oifered to attend me if I would visit it ; adding that if I did not find everything agreeing with his repre- sentation, I might kill him. I nad not the least doubt of the truth of his * See Captain Wallis's voyage, in Hawkesworth'S Collection-. Captain WalUs there calls both these islands high ones. But the superior height of one of them may be inferred from his saying that it appears like a sugar- l<»f. This strongly marks its re- semblance to Kao. From comparing Poulaho's intelligence to Captain Cook, with Captain Wallis's account, it seems to be past all doubt that Boscawen's Island is our Kootahee, and Keppol's Island our Neeootabooo taboo.— Note in Original Edition. [Voy.III.B.II.Ch.X. intelligence; and was satisfied that Feenou, from some interested view, attempted to deceive me. Hamoa, which is also under the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two days' sail NW. from Vavaoo. It was described to me as the largest of all their islands, as affording harbours and good water, and as producing in abundance every article of refresh- ment found at the places we visited. Poulaho himself frequently resides there. It should seem that the people of this island are in high csti« mation at Tongataboo, for we wore told that some of the songs and dances with which we were entertained had been copied from theirs, and we saw some houses said to be built after their fashion. Feejee, as we were told, lies threa days' sail from Tongataboo in the direction of NW. by W. It was described to us as a high but veiy fruitful island, abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others, and as much larger than Tongataboo, to the dominion of which, as was represented to us, it is not subject, as the other islands of this archipelago are. On the contrary, Feejee and Tongataboo frequently make war upon each; other ; and it appeared from several circumstances that the inhabitants of the latter are much afraid of this enemy. They used to express their sense of their own inferiority to the Feejee men by bending their body forward, and covering the face with their hands. And it IS no wonder that they should be under this dread, for those of Feejee are formidable on account of the dexterity with which they use their bows and slings, but much more so on account of the savage practice to which they are addicted, like those of New Zealand, of eating their ene- mies who "1 they kill in battle. Wa were satisfied that this was not a mis- representation ; for we met with seve- ral Feejee people at Tongataboo, and on i'jouiring of them they did not deny the charge. Kow that I am again led to speak July 1777. NATIVES OF FEEJER. 168 of cannibals, let me ask those who maintain that the want of food first bringii men to feed on human flesh, Whnt is it that induceth the Feejee people to keep it up in the midst of plenty! This practice is detested very much by those of Tongataboo, who cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours of Feejee apparently out of fear, though they sometimes venture to skirmish with them on their own ground, and carry off red feathers as their booty, which are in f|reat plenty there, and, as has been ic^uently mentioned, are in great estimation amongst our Friendly Js- landers. When the two islands are at peace, the intercourse between them seems to be pretty frequent, though they have doubtless been but lately known to each other, or we may suppose that Tongataboo and its o-;]jo{ning islands would have been supplied before this with a breed of dogs which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Touga- tAboo so late as 1773, when I first visited it. The natives of Feejee whom we met with here were of a colour that was a full shade darker than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands in general. One of thum had his left ear slit, and the lobe was so distended that it almost reached his shoulder, which singu- larity I had met with at other islands of the South Sea during my second voyage. It appeared to me that the Feejee men wnom we now saw were much respected here, not only per- haps from the power and cruel man- ner of their nation's going to war, but also from their ingenuity. For they seem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that respect, if we niiglit judge from several specimens of their skill in workmanship wl^I^h we saw, such as clubs and spears, which were carved in a very masterly manner, cloth beautifully chequered, variegated mats, earthen pots, and some other articles, all which hod a cast of superiority in the execution. I have mentioned that Feejee lies three days' sail from Tongataboo, because these people Lave no other method of measuring the distance from island to island but by express- ing the time required to make the voyage in one of their canoes. In order to ascertain this with some pre- cision, or at least to form some judg- ment how far these canoes can sail in a moderate gale in any given time, I went on board one of them when under sail, and by several trials with the log found that she went s^en knots or miles in an hour, close-hauled in a gentle gale. From this I judge that they will sail on a medium, with such breezes as generally blow in their Bek, about seven or eight miles in an hour. But the length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours , for when they spoke of one day's sail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the same day^that is, ten or twelve hours at most; and two days' sail with them signifies from the morning of the first day to the evening of the second ; and so for any other number of days. In these navigations the sun is theit* guide by day, and the stars by night. When these are ob- scured they have recourse to the points from whence thef winds and the waves come upon the vessel. If during the obscuration 'both the wind and the waves should shift (which, within the limits of the trade-wind, seldom hap- pens at any other time), they are then bewildered, frequently miss their in- tended port, and are never heard of more. The history of Oraai's coun- trymen, who were driven to Wateeo9, leads us to infer that those not he&rd of are not always lost. Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with amongst these islands, that of Tongataboo is by far the best, not only on account of its great security, but of its capacity, and of the goodrjdS of its bottom. Although Tor' .taboo has the best harbour, Aiiiamooka furnishes the best water, aid yet it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near the side of the pond wo can get what may be called tolerable. Tliis island, too. is the best situated for drawing rerveshmeuts from all tb* 151 others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group. It may be expected that after spend- ing between two and three months amongst the [natives'*. I should be enabled to give a tolerably satisfactory account of their customs, opinions, and institutions, bdth civil and reli- gious, especially at i we had a person on board who uilght be supposed qualified to act the part of an inter- preter, by understanding their lan- guage and others. But poor Omai was very deficient ; for unle&a the object or thing we wanted to inquire about was actually before us, we found it difficult to gain a tolerable know- ledge of it from information only, without falling into a hundred mis- takes, and to such mistakes Omai was more liable than we were ; for having no curiosity, he never gave himseu the trouble to make remarks for himself; and when he was dis- posed to explain matters to us, his ideas appeared to be so limited, and perhaps so different from oui-s, that his accounts were often so confused as to perplex instead of instructing us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found amongst the na- tives a x>erson who united the ability and tiie inclination to give us the information we wanted ; and we found that most of them hated to be troubled with what they probably thought idle questions. Our situation at Tongata- boo, where we remained the longest, was likewise unfavourable. It was in a part of the country where there were few inhabitants except fishers. It was always holiday with our visit- ors, as well as with those we visited ; so that we had but few opportunities of observing what waa really the do- mestic way of living of the natives. Under these disadvantages it is not surprising that we should not be able to bring away with us satisfactory accounts of many things ; but some of us endeavoured to remedy those disadvantages by diligent observation ; and I am indebted to Mr Anderson for a considerable share of what fol- lows in this and in the following Obapter. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III.B.II.Ch.X. The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the common statur* (though we have measured some who were above six feet), but are very strong and well made, especially aa to their limbs. They are generally broad about the shoulders, and though the muscular disposition of the men, which seems a conseqiienee rol»- July 1777.] OF THE MORE PREVALENT DISEASES. 165 con- ably the effect of being less exposed to the sun, as a tendency to corpulence in a few of the principal people seems to be the consequence of a more in- dolent life. It is also amongst the lost that a soft clear skin is most fVe- quently observed. Amongst the bulk of the people the skin ia more com- monly of a dull hue, with some degree of roughness, especially the parts that are not covered, which X)ernaps may be occasioned by some cutaneous dis- ease. We saw a man and boy at Ha- paee, and a child at Annamooka, per- fectly white. Such have been found amongst all black nations, but I ap- Srehend that their colour is rather a isease than a natural phenomenon. There are, nevertheless, upon the whole, few natural defects or defor- mities to be found amongst them, though we saw two or three with their feet bent inward, and some alQicted with a sort of blindness oc- casioned by a disease of the cornea. Neither are they exempt from some other diseases, the most common of which is the tetter, or ring-worm, that seems to affect almost one-half of them, and leaves whitish serpentine marks everywhere behind it. But this is of less consequence than an- other disease which is very frequent, and appears on every part of the body in large broad ulcers with thick white edg'M, discharging a thin, ci ir mat- ter, some of which had a very virulent appearance, particularly those on the face, which were shocking to look at. And yet we met with some who seemed to be cured of it, and others in a fa: ' way of being cui-ed ; but thid was not effected without the loss of the nose, or of the best part of it. As we know for a certainty^ (and the fact is acknowledged by themselves) that the people of these islands were subject to this loathsome disease be- fore the English first visited them, notwithstanding the similarity of 1 Captain Cook, in the accou at of liis Second Voyage, gives a partcular account of meeting with a person afflicted with this disease at Anna- mooka on hia landing there in 1773. symptoms, it cannot b« the effect of the venereal contagion, unless we adopt a supposition, which I could wish had sufficient fonndation in truth, that the venereal disorder was not introduced here from Europe by our ships in 1773. It assuredly was now found to exist amongst them, for we had not been long there before some of our people received the infec- tion ; and I nad the mortification to learn from thence that all the care I took when I first visited these islands to prevent this dreadful disease from being communicated to their inhabit- ants had proved ineffectual. What ia extraordinary, they do not seem to regard it much ; and as we saw few signs of its destroying effects, prob- ably the climate and the way of living of these people greatly abate its viru- lence. [Two other diseases are fre- quent amongst them.] But in other respects they may be considered as uncommonly healthy, not a single person having been seen during our stay confined to the house by sickness of any kind. On the contrary, their strength and activity are every way answerable to their muscular appear- ance ; and they exert both in their usual employment and in tLeir diver- sions, in such a manner that there can be no doubt of their being as yet little debilitated by the nnmarous diseases that are the consequeriv^e of indolence and an unnatural method of life. The graceful air axid firm step with which these peopL walk are not the least obvious proof of their personal accomplishments. They con* sider this as a thing so natural or so nece,ssary to be acquired that nothing used to excite their laughter sooner tiian to see us frequently stumbling upon the roots of trees or other in- equalities of the ground. Their countenances very remarkablj express the abundant mildness or good-nature which they possess, and are entirely free from that savage keenness which marks nations in a barbarous state. One would indeed be apt to fancy that they had beon bred up under the severest restric* tions to acquire an aspect so settled. 158 and such • command of their pas- sions, as well as steadiness in conduct. But they are nt the same time frank, cheerful, and good-humoured, though sometimes in the presence of their chiefs they put ou a degree of gravity and such a b?rious air as becomes stiff and awkward, and has an appearance of reserve. Their jieaceable disposi- tion is sufficiently evinced from the friendly reception all strangers have met with who have visited thorn. Instead of offering to attack them openly or clandestinely, as has been the case with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have never appeared in the smallest degree hostile ; but on the contrary, like the most civilised people, have courted an intercourse with their visitors by bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations in a sort of friendship. They understand barter (which they call "fukkatou") so perfectly that at first we imt^ncd they might have acquired this knowledge of it by com- mercial intercourse with the neigh- bouring islands, but we were afterward assured that they had little or no traffic except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers and the few other articles mentioned before. Per- haps BO nation in the world traffic with more honesty and less distrust. We could always safely permit them to examine our goods, and to hand them about one to another ; and they put the same confidence in us. If either party repented of the bargain, the goods were re-exchanged with mutual consent and good-humour. Upon the whole, they seem possessed of many of the most excellent quali- ties that adorn the human mind, such as industry, ingenuity, perseverance, affability, and perhaps other virtues which our short stay with them might Jyrevent our observing. The only de- lect sullying their character that we know of is a propensity to thieving, to which we found those of all ages and both sexes addicted, and to an uncommon degree. Their hair is in general sti-aight, thick, and strong, though a few have It bushy or frizzled, '^he natural COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. Ch. X. colour, I believe, almost without ex- ception, is black ; but the greatest pai-t of the men and some of the women have it stained of a brown or purple colour, and a few of an orango cast. The first colour is produced by applying a sort of plaster of burned coral mixed with water ; the second by the raspings of a reddish wood, whicn is made up with water into a poultice and laid over the hair ; and the third is, I believe, the efl'ect of turmeric root. When I first visited these islands I thought it had been a uni- versal custom for both men and women to wear the hair short, but during our present longer stay we saw a great many exceptions. Indeed they are so whimsical in their fashions of wearing it that it is hard to tell which is most in vogue. Some have it cut off one side of the head, while that on the other side remnins long; s /Tie have only a portion of it cut short or per- haps shaved ; others have it entirely cut off except a single lock, which is left commonly on one side ; or it is suffered to grow to its full length with- out any of these mutilations. The women in general wear it short. The men have their beards cut short, and both men and women strip the hair from their arm -pits. The operation by which this is performed has been already described.^ The men are stained from about the middle of the belly to about half way down the thighs with a deep blue colour. This is done with a flat bone instrument cut full of fine teeth, which, being dipped in the staining mixture pre- pared from the juice of the "dooo dooe," is struck into the skin with a bit of stick, and by that means indel- ible marks are made. In this manner they trace lines and figures, which in some are very elegant, both from the variety and from the arrangement. The women have only a few small lines or spotii thus imprinted on tho inside of their hands. Their kings, as a mark of distinction, are exempted from this custom, as also from innict> In Chapter YI. of this Book. TciT 1777.] CLEANLINESS OP THE NATIVES. 167 Ing on themselves any of those bloody marks of mourning which shidl be mentioned in another place. The dress of both men and women is the same, and consists of a piece of cloth or matting (but mostly the former), about two yards wide and two and a half long ; at least, so long as to go once and a half round the waist, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, and hangs down like a petticoat as low as the middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment above the girdle is plaited into several folds, so that when unfolded there is cloth sufficient to draw up and wrap round the shoulders ; which is very seldom done. This, as to form, is the general dress; but large pieces of cloth and fine matting are worn only by the superior people. The inferior sort are satisfied with small pieces, and very often wear nothing but a cover- ing made of leaves of plants, or the "maro," which is a narrow piece of cloth or matting like a sash. This they pass between the thighs and wrap round the waist; but the use of it is chiefly confined to the men. In their great " Haivas," or enter- tainments, they have vaiious dresses made ior the purpose, but the form is always the same, and the richest dresses are covered more or less with red feathers. On what particular oc- casion their chiefs wear their large red feather-caps I could not learn. Both men and women sometimes shade their faces from the sun with little bonnets made of various mate- rials. As the clothing, so are the ornaments worn by those of both sexes the same. The most common of these are necklaces made of the fruit of the PMidantu and various sweet-smelimg, Itowers, which go under the general name of " kabuUa. " Others are composed of small shells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, sharks' teeth, and other things ; all which hang loose upon the breast. In the same manner they often v ear a mother-of -pearl shell neatly polished, or a ring of the same substance carved, on the upper part of the arm ; rings of tortoise-shell on the fingers; and a number of these joined together as bracelets on the wrists. The lobes of the ears (though most frequently only one) are perforated with two holes, in which they wear cylindrical bits of ivory about three inches long, introduced at one hole and brought out of the other, or bits of reed of the same size filled with a yellow pigment. This seems to be a fine powder of turmeric, witli which the women rub themselves all over in the same manner as our ladies use their dry rouge upon the cheeks. Nothing appears to give them greater pleasure than personal clean- liness ; to produce which they fre- quently bathe in the ponds, which seem to serve no other purpose. Though the water in most of thena stinks intolerably, they prefer them to the sea ; and they are so sensible that salt water hurts their skin, that when necessity obliges them to bathe in the sea they commonly have jome cocoa-nut shells filled with fresh water poured over them to wash it off. They are immoderately fond of cocoa- nut oil for the same reason ; a great quantity of which they not only pour upon their head and shoulders, but rub the body all over briskly with a smaller quantity. And none but those who have seen this practice can easily conceive how the appearance of the skin is improved by it. This oil, however, is not to be procured by every one, and the inferior sort of people doubtless appear less smooth for want of it CHAPTER XI. Thbtk domestic life is of that middle kind, neither so laborious as to be disagreeable, nor so vacant as to suffer them to degenerate into indolence. Nature has done so much for their country that the first can hardly oc- ciir, and their disposition seems to be a pretty good bar to the last. By this happy combination of circum- stances their necessary labour scemi to yield in its turn to their recrea- 158 tions in r.nch a manner, that the latter are never interrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the ionner, till satiety makea them wish for such a transition. The employment of the women ia of the easy kind, and for the most part such as may be executed in the nouse. The manufacturing their cloth is wholly consigned to their care. Having already described the process, I shall only add that they have this cloth of different degrees of iiueness. The coarser sort, of which they make very large pieces, does not receive the impression of any pattern. Of the finer sort they have some that is striped and chequered, and of other patterns differently coloured. But now these colours are laid en I cannot say, as I never saw any of this sort made. The cloth in general will resist water for some time, but that which has the strongest glaze will resist longest The manufacture next in consequence, and also within the department of the women, is that of their mats, which excel everything I have seen at any other place both as to their texture and their beauty. In particular, many of them are so superior to those made at Otaheite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither by way of trade. Of these mats they have seven or eight different sorts for the purposes of wearing or sleeping upon, and many are merely ornamental. The last are chiefly made from the tough, mem- braneous part of the stock of the J)lantain tree ; those that they A/ear, rom the Pandan"illows, and, perhaps, a large stool or the chief or master of the family to sit upon. The only probable reason I can assign for their neglect of orna- mental architecture in the construc- tion of their houses, is their being fond of living much in the open air. Indeed, thoy seem to consider their houses, witiiin which they seldom eat, as of little use but to sleep in and to retire to in bad weather. And the lower sort of people, who spend a great part of their time in close attend- ance upon the chiefs, can have little use for their own houses but in the last cose. Tbe^ make amends for the defects of their houses by theLr great atten- tion to and dexterity in naval archi- tecture, if I may be allowed to give it that name. But I refer to the narrative of my last voyage for an account of their canoes, and their manner of building and navigating them. The only tools which they use to construct these boats are hatchets, or rather thick adzes, of a smooth black stone that abounds at Toofoa; augers made of sharks' teeth fixed on small handles ; and rasps of a rough skin of a fish, fastened on flat pieces of wood, thinner on one side, wliich also have handles. The labour and time employed in finishing their 160 canoos, wliicli arc tho most perfect of their mechanical productions, will account for their being very careful of them. For they aro built and pre- served under sheds; or they cover tho decked part of tliem with cocoa- IcaTCS when they are hauled on shore, to prevent their being hurt by the sun. The same tools are all they liave for other works, if we except different shells, which they use as knives. But there are few of their productions that require these, unless it be some of their weapons ; the other articles being chiefly their fishing materials, and cordage. The cordage is mado from the fibres of the cocoa- nut husk, which, though not more than nine or ten inches long, they plait, about the size of a quiU or less, to any length that they please, and roll it up in balls, from which the larger ropes are made by twisting several of these together. The lines that they fish with are as strong and even as the best cord we make, resem- bling it almost in every respect. The ©Lher fishing implements are large and small hooks. The last are com- posed entirely of pearl-shell, but the first are only covered with it on the back, and tho points of both com- monly of tortoise-shell ; those of the small being plain and the others barbed. With the lo-ge ones they catch bonitos and albicores, by i/tit- ting them to a bamboo rod twelve or fourteen feci; long, with a line of the same length, which rests in a notch of a piece of wood fixed in the stern of the canoe for that purpose, and is dragged on the surface of the sea as she rows along, witliout any other bait than a tuft of flaxy stuff near the point. They have also great numbers of pretty small seines, some of wh'ch are of a very delicate texture. These they use to catch fish with in the holes on the reefs when the tide ebbs. The other manual employments con- sist chiefly in making musical reeds, flutes, warlike weapons, and stools or rather pillows to sleep on. The reeds have eight, nine, or ten pieces placed parallel to each other, but not m any COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. II. Ch. XL regular progression, having the longest sometimes in the middle, and several of the same length; so that I have seen none with more than six notes ; and they seem incapable of playing any^ miisic on them that is distin- guishable by our ears. The flutes are a joint of bamboo, close at both ends, with a hole near each, and four others ; two of which, and one of the first only, are used in playing. They apply the thumb of the left hand to close the left nostril, and blow into the hole at one end with the other. The middle finger of tho left hand is applied to the first hole on the left, and the forefinger of the right to the lowest hole on that side. In this manner, though the notes aro only three, they produce a pleasing yet simple music, which they vary much more than one would think possible with so imperfect an instrument. Their being accustomed to a music which consists of so few notes is per- haps the reason why they do not seem to relish ray of ours, which is so complex. But they can taste what is more deficient than their own ; for we observed that they used to be well pleased with hearing the chant of our two young New Zealanders, which consisted rather in mere strength than in melody of expression. The weapons which they make are clubs of difl'erent sorts (in the ornamenting of which they spend much time), spears, and darts. They have also bows and arrows; but these seemed to be designed only for amusement, such as shooting at birds, and not for military purposes. The stools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches high, and near four broad, bending downward in the middle, with four strong legs and circular feet ; the whole made of one i)iece of black or brown wood, neatly polished and sometimes inlaid vith bits of ivory. They also inlay the handles of flyflaps with ivory, after being neatly carved ; and they shape bones into small figures of men, birds, and other things, which must be very difficult, as their carving instrument is only a shark's tooth. wmi July 1777.] FOOD AND Yams, plantains, and coooa-nnts, eoin])08e the greatest part of their vegetable diet Of their animal food, the chief articles are hogs, fowls, fish, and all sorts of shell-nsh ; but the lower people eat rats. The two first Tegetaole articles, with bread-fruit, are what may be called the basis of their food at different times of the year, with fish and shell-fish ; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, seem only to be occasional dainties reserved for their chiefs. The intervals bstween the seasons of these vegetable produc- tions must be sometimes consiuerable, as they prepare a sort of artificial bread from plantains, which they put under ground before ripe, and suffer them to rems.in till they ferment, when they ara taken out and made up into small balls ; but so sour and indifferent, that they often said our bread was preferable, though some- what musty. Their food is, generally, dressed by baking, in the same man- ner as at Otaheite ; and they have tlie art of making from different kinds of fruit several dishes which most of MS esteemed very good, I never saw them make nse of any kind of sauce ; nor drink anything at their meals but water or the juice of the cocoa- nut ; for the "kava" is only their morning draught. I cannot say that they are cleanly either in their cook- ery or manner of eating. The gener- ality of them will lay their victuals upon the first leaf they meet with, however dirty it may be ; but when food is served up to the chiefs it is commonly laid upon green plantain leaves. When the King made a meal, he was for the most part attended upon by three or four persons. One cut large pieces of the Joint or of the fish ; another divided it into mouth- fuls ; and others stood by with cocoa- nuts and whatever else he might want. I never saw a large company tit down to what we should call a sociable meal, by eating from the same dish. The food, oe what it will, is always divided into portions, each to serve a certain ntimber ; these portions are again subdivided ; so that one seldom sees above two or COOKERY. •1»1 three persons eating together. The women are not excluded from eating with the men, but there are certain ranks or orders amongst them that can neither eat nor drink together. This distinction begins with the King, but where it ends I cannot say. They seem to have no set time for meals ; though it should be observed that during our stay amongst them their domestic economy was much dis- turbed by their constant attention to us. As far as we could remark, those of the superior rank only drink "kava" in the forenoon, and the others eat perhaps a bit of yam ; but we commonly saw all of them eat something in the afternoon. It is probable that the practice of making a meal in the night is pretty common ; and their rest being thus iutemipted they frequently sleep in the day. They go to bed as soon as it is dark, and rise with the dawn in the morning. They are very fond of asiiociating together, so that it is common to find several houses empty, and tlie owners of them convened in some other one, or rather upon a convenient spot itt the neighbourhood where they recreate themselves by conversing and other amusements. Tlicir private diversions are chiefly singing, dancing, and music performed by the women. When two or three women sing in concert, and snap their fingers, it is called "oobai \" but when there is a greater number they divide into several parties, each of which sings on a different key, which makes a very agreeable music, and is called "heeva" or "haiva." In the same manner, they vary the music of their flutes, by playing on those of a difTcrent size ; but their dancing is much the same as when they perform publicly. The dancing of the men (if it is to be called danc- ing), although it does not ccnsist much "n moving the feet as we do, has a ttiousand different motions with the hands to which we arc entire strangers ; and they are performed with an ease and grace which are not to be described n9r even conceived but by those who hiue seen them. But I need add nothing to what haa 1«2 COOK'S VOYAGES. [ Voy. III. B. II. Ch. XI. ^ 'been tixmiy said on thii subject in the account of the incidents that hap- pened during our stay at the islands. Whether their marriages be made lasting by any kind of solemn con- tract, we could not determine with precision ; but it is certain, that the bulk of the people satisfied themselves with one wife. The chiefs, however, harecommonlyseveral women; though some of us were of opinion that there" was only one that was looked upon as the mistress of the family. As female chastity at first sight seemed to bo held in no great estimation, we expected to hare found frequent breaches of their conjugal fidelity; but we did them great injustice. I do not know that a single instance happened dur- ing our whole stay. Neither are those of the better sort that are unmarried more free of their favours. It is true, there was no want of those of a differ- ent character ; and perhap such are more frequently met with here in pro- portion to the nnmber of people, tnan u many other countries. But it appeared to me that the most, if not tdi of them, were of the lowest class ; •nd such of them as permitted fami- liarities to our people were prostitutes by profession. Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of these people than the concern they show for the dead. To use a common expression, their mourning is not in words but deeds. For, besides the " tooge " mentioned before, and burnt circles and scars, they beat the teeth with stones, strike a shark's tooth into the head until the blood flows in streams, and thrust spears into the inner part of the thigh, into their sides below the arm-pits, and through the cheeks into the mouth. All these operations coi)i> ▼ey an idea of such rigorous discipline M must require either an uncommon degree of affection, or the grossest superstition, to exact. I will not say that the last has no share in it ; for aometimes it is so universal that many eould not have any knowledge of the person for whom the concern ia ox- pressed. Thus we saw the people of Tongataboo mourning the death of a chief at Yavaoo ; and other similar instances occurred during our stay. It should be observed, however, that the more painful operations are only practised on account of the death of those most nearly connected with the mourners. When a person dies, he is buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much after our man- ner. The chiefs seem to have the " fiatookas " appropriated to them as their burial-places ; but the common people are interred in no ])articular spot. What part of the mourning ceremony follows immediately after is uncertain ; but that there is some- thing besides the general one, which is continued for a considerable len^h of time, we could infer from being informed that the funeral of Maree- wagee's wife, as mentioned before, was to oe attended with ceremonies that were to last five days, in which all the principal people were to com- memorate her. Their long and general mourning proves that they consider death as a very great evil. And this is con- firmed by a very odd custom which they practise to avert it. When I first visited these islands, during my last voyage, I observed that many of the inhabitants had one or both of their little fingers cut off; and we could not then receive any satisfactory account of the reason of this mutila- tion. But we now learned that this operation is performed when they labour under some grievous disease and think themselves in danger of dying. They suppose that the Deily will accept of the little finger as • sort of sacrifice efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their health. They cut it off with one of their stone hatchets. There was scarcely one in ten of them whom we did not find thus mutilated in one or both hands ; which has a disagreeable effect, especi- ally as they sometimes cut so close that they encroach upon the bone of the hand which joins to the ampa* tated finger.^ * It may be proner to mention here, on the auUiority of Captain King, that th it ou ac' tu iVLX 1777.] MOURNING CEREMONIES FOR THE DEAD. 168 From the rigid severity with which •ome of these mourning and religious ceremonies are executed, one would expect to find that they meant there- by to secure to themselves felicity beyond the grave ; but their princi- pal object .relates to things merely temporal, for they seem to have little conception of future punishment for faults '"^mmitted in this life. They believe, ^owever, that they are justly punished upon earth ; and conse- auently use every method to render aeir Divinities propitious. The Su- preme Author of most things they call "Eallafootonga," who, they say, is a female residing in tlie sky and directing the thunder, wind, rain, and in general ail the changes of weather. They believe that when she is angry with them the productions of the earth are blasted ; that many things •re destroyed by lightning ; and that they themselves are afllicted with sick- ness and death, as well as their hogs and other animals. When this anger abates, they suppose that everything is restored to its natural order ; and it •hould seem that they have a great reliance on the efficacy of their en- deavours to appease their offended Divinity. They also admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to " Kal- lafootonga." Amongst them they mention "Toofooa-boolootoo," god of the clouds and fog; "Talleteboo," and some others, residing in the heavens. The first in rank and power, who has the government of the sea and its productions, is called " Futtafaihe," or, as it was sometimes pronounced, "Foptafooa," who, they say, is a male, and has for his wife " Fykavakajeea ;" and her&, as in heaven, there are several inferior potentates, such as " Vahaa-fonooa," *'Tareeava," "Kattaba," "Evaroo," and others. The same religious sys- tem, liowever, does not extend all over the cluster of the Friendly Isles ; it is common for the inferior people to out off a joint of their little finger, on acoonnt of the sickness of the chiefs to whom they belong.— iVo<« m Ori- ginal Edition, for the supreme god of Hapaee, for instance, is called "Alo Alo;" and other isles have two or three of differ- ent names. But their notions of the power and other attributes of these beings are so very absurd, that tliey suppose they have no farther concern with them after death. They have, however, very proper sentiments about the immateriality and the immortality of the soul. They call it life, the living principle, or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an " Otooa ;" that is, a divinity or invisible being. They say that immediately upon death the souls of their chiefs separate from their bodies, and go to a place called *' Boolootoo," the chief or god of which is "Oooleho." This "Gooleho" seems to be a per- sonification of death ; for they used to say to .us, *' You and the men of Feejee " (by this junction meaning to pay a compliment expressive of their confession of our superiority over themselves) " are also subject to the Kiwor and dominion of 'Gooleho.'" is country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their mytho- logy, was never seen by any pei-son ; yet it seems they know that it lies to the westward of Feejee, and that they who are once transported thither live for ever, or, to use their own expres- sion, are not subject to death again, but feast upon a/U the favourite pro- ducts of their own country, with which this everlasting abode is supi)osed to abound. As to the souls of the lower sort of peo])le, they undergo a sort of transmigration ; or, as they say, are eaten up by a bird called "loata," which walks upon their graves for that purpose. I think I may venture to assert tbat they do not worship anything that is the work of their own hands, or any visible part of the creation. They do not make offerings of hogs, dogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unless it be emblematically, for their "mor- ais " were iMirfectly free from every- tiling of the kind. But that they offer real human sacrifices is with me beyond a doubt. Their " morais " ot ••fiatookas" (for they are calle^l by 164 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. II. Ch. XI. both namM, bnt mostly by the latter) are, as at Otahcite and many other parts of the world, burying-grounds and places of worship, though some of them seemed to be only appropri- ated to the first purpose, but these were small, and in every other respect inferior to the others. Of the nature of their government we know no more than the general outhne. A subordination is estab- lished among them that resembles the feudal system of our progenitors in Europe. But of its subdivisions, of the constituent parts, and in what manner they are connected so as to form a body politic, I confess myself totally ignorant. Some of them told us that the power of the King is un- limited, and that the life and property of the subject is at his disposal. But the few circumstances that Xell under our observation rather contradicted than confirmed the idea of a despotic government. Mareewngee, old Too- bou, and Feeuou, acted each like petty sovereigns, and frequently thwarted the measures of the King, of which he often complained. Neither vas his court more splendid than those of the two first, who are the most powerful chiefs in the islands ; and n?xt to them B'eenou, Mareewa- gee's son, seemed to stand highest in authority. But however independent on the despotic power of the King the great men may be, we saw instances enough to prove that the lower order of people have no projierty nor safety for their persons but at the will of the chiefs to whom they respectively be- long. Tongataboo is divided into many districts, of above thirty of which we learned the names. Each of these has its particular chief, who decides differences and distributes justice within his own district. But we could not form any satisfactory judgment about the extent of their iwwer in general, or their mode of proportion- ing punishments to crimes. Most of these chiefs have possessions in other islands, whence they draw supplies. At least we know this is so witn ro- •peet to the Kin^^ who at certain established times receives the product of his distant domains at Tongataboo, which is not only the principal place of his residence, but ear that any of the most civilised nations have ever exceeded tliis people in the great ordsr observed on all occasions, in ready compliance with the commands of their chiefs, and in the harmony that subsists throughout all ranks, and unites them as if they were all one jnan, informed with and directed by the same principle. Such a behavi- our is remarkably obvious whenever it is requisite that their chief should harangue any body of them collected together, which is frequently done. The most profound silence and atten- tion are observed during the harangue, oven to a much greater degree than is |>ractised amongst us on the most interesting and serious deliberations of our most respectable assemblies. And whatever might have been the subject of the s{)eech delivered, we never saw an instance when any indi- vidual present showed si^s of his :beiug displeased, or indicated the least inclination to dispute the de- clared will of a person who had a right to command. Nay, such is the force of these verbal laws, as I may call them, that I have seen one of their chiefs express his being aston- ished at a person's having acted con- trary to such oi-ders, though it ap- peared that the iHX>r man could not possibly have been informed in time to have observed them. Though some of the more potent chiefs may vie with the King in point of actual possessions, they fall very short in rank and in ceitain marks of respect wliich the collective body have agreed to pay the monarch. It is a pailicular privilege annexed to his sovereignty not to be punctured uor circumcised as all his subjects ore. Wlienoyer he walks out, every one whom lie meets must sit down till he has jmased. No one is allowed to be over his head ; on the contrary, all must come under his feet, for there cannot bo a greater outward mark of ■ubmissiou than that which is paid to 165 the Sovereign and other fft9iA peopb of these islands by their inferiors. The method is this : the person who is to pay obeisance squats down befors the chief, and bows the head to the sole of his foot, which when he sits is so placed that it can be easily come at ; and having tapped or touched it with the under and upper side of the finders of both hands, he rises up and retires. It should seem that the King cannot refuse any one who chooses to pay him this homage, which is called " moe moea," for the common people would frequently take it into their heads to do it when he was walking ; and he was always obliged to stop and hold up one of his feet behind him till they had performed the ceremony. This to a heavy unwieldy man liko Poulaho must be attended with somo trouble and pain ; and I have some* times seen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the way or to reach a place where he might con* veniently sit down. The hands, aftef this application of them to the chief's feet, are in some cases rendered use* less for a time, for until they be washed they must not touch any kind of food. This interdiction, in a country whera water is so scarce, would seem to be attended with some inconvenience; but they are never at a loss for a sue- cedaneum, and a piece of any juicy plant, which they can easily procure immediately, being rubbed upon them, this serves for the purpose of purifica- tion as well as washing them with water. When the hands are iu this state they call it "taboo rema." "Taboo," in general, signifies for* bidden; and "rema" is their word for hand. When the " taboo " is incurred by paying obeisance to a great personage, it IS thus easily washed oiL But in some other cases it must necessarily continue for a certain time. We have frequently seen women who have been "taboo rema" fed by others. At the expii-ation of the time, the in- terdicted |)erson washes herself in one of their baths, which are dirty holes, ior the most part, of brackish water. She then waits upon the King, an*]. 166 COOK'S VOYAGES. fVoY. III. B. IL Oh. XI, after making her obeisance in the usual way, lays hold of his foot and applies it to her breast, shoulders, and other parts of her body. He then embraces ber on each shoulder, after which she retires purified from her nncleanness. I do not know that it is always necessary to come to the King for this purpose, though Omai assured me it was. If this be so, it may be one reason why he is for the most part travelling fi-om island to island. I saw this ceremony performed by him two or three times, and once by Feenou to one of his own women ; but as Omai was not then v'ith me I could not ask the occasion. "Ta< boo, " as I hare before observed, is a word of an extensive sienification. Human sacrifices are called " tangata taboo ; " and when anything is for- bidden to be eaten or made use of, they say that it is "taboo." They tell us that if the King should happen to go into a house belonging to a sub- ject that house would be "taboo," and could never more be inhabited by the owner, so that wherever he traveu there are particular houses for his re- ception. Old Toobou at this time pi-esided over the "taboo," that is, if Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he and bis deputies inspected all the produce of the island, taking care that every man should cultivate and plant his quota, and ordering what should be eaten and what not. By this wise regulation they effectu- ally guard against a famine, a suffi- cient (Quantity of ground is employed in raising provisions, and every article thus raised is secured from unneces- sary waste. By another pmdent regulation in their government, they have an officer over the police, or something like it. Th'.s department when we were amongst them was administered by Feenou ; whose business, we were told, it was to punish all offenders, whether against the State or against indi viduals. He was also generalissimi ; and commanded the warriors whe t called out upon service ; but by all accounts this is very seldom. The King frequently took some pains to inforfn as of Feenott's office ; and, among other things, told us that if he himself should become a bad mar, Feenou would kill hira._ Wha^ I understood by this expression of being a bad man was, that if he did not go- vern according to law or custom, Feonou would be ordered by the other great men, or by the people at larg^ to put him to death. Tliere should seem to be no doubt that a sovereign thus liable to be controlled and pun> ished for an abuse of power, cannot be called adeBpotic monarch. When we consider the number of islands that compose this little state, and the distance at which some of them lie from the seat of government, attempts to throw off the yoke and to acquire independency, it should seem, might be apprehended. But they tell as that this never happens. One reason why they are not thus disturbed by domestic, quarrels may be this, that all the powerful chiefs, as we have already liientioned, reside at Tongat«> boo. They also secure the independ^ ence of the other islands by the celerity of their operations ; for if at any tinif a troublesome and popular man should start up in any of tnem^ Feenou, or whoever holds his office, is immediately despatched thither to kill him. By this means they crush a rebellion in its very infancy. The orders or classes amongst their chiefs, or those who call themselvoe such, seemed to be almost as numer- ous as amongst us ; but !'here are few in comparison that are lords of large districts of territory, the rest holding their lands under those principu barons, as they may be called. I was, indeed, told that when a man of pro- perty dies, everything he leaves be- hind him falls to the King ; but that i' is usual to give it to the eldest son of the deceas^, with an obligation to make a provision out of it for the rest of the children. It is not the cus- tom here, as at Otaheite, for the son, the moment he is bom, to take from the father the homage and title, bat he succeeds to them at his decease ; so that their form of government is not only monarcliical but hereditary. July 1777.] AN ACCOUNT OF THE ROTAL FAMILY. i«r The oruer of sticcession to the crown has not been of late interrupted ; for we know from a particular circum- stance that the Futtafaiheg (Ponlaho being only an addition to distinguish the King fiom the rest of his family) have reigned in a direct line for at least 135 years. Upon inquiring whether rtny account had been pre- served amongst them of the arrival of Tasman's ships, we found that this history had been handed down to them from their ancestors with an accuracy which marks that oral tradi- tion muj sometimes be depended upon. For they described the two ships as resembling oars ; mentioning the place where they had anchored ; their having staged but a few days ; and their moving from that station to Annamooka. And, by way of in- forming us how long ago this had happened, they told us the name of the Futtafaihe who was then king, and of those who liad succeeded, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth since that period ; the first being an old man at the time of the arrival of the ships. From what has been said of the present King, it would be natural to suppose that he had the highest rank of any person in the islands. But to our great surprise we found it is not so ; for Latoolibooloo, the person who was pointed out to me as King when I first visited Tongataboo, and three women, are in some respects superior to Poulaho himself. On our inquir- ing who these extraordinary pei-son- ages were whom they distinguish by the name and title of "Tammaha, we were told that the late King, Pen- laho's father, had a sister of equal rank, and older than himself ; that she, by a man who came from the island of Fecjee, bad a son and two daughters ; and that these three per- sons, as well as their mother, rank above Futtafaihe, the King. We en- deavoiu'ed in vain to trace the reason cf this singular pre-eminence of th* "Tammahas;" for we could learn nothing besides this account of their pedigree. The mother, and one of the daughters, called Tooeela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo. Latoolibooloo, the son, and the other daughter, whose name is Moungoula - kaipa, reside at Tongataboo. The latter is the woman who is mentioned to have dined with me on the 21st of June.* This gave occasion to our discovering her superiority over the King, who would not eat in her presence, though she made no scruple to do so befort him, and received from him the coa* tomary obeisance by touching her foot We never had an opportunity of see* ing him pay this mark of respect t« Latooliboi^oo ; but we have observed hinjt leave off eating, and have his victuals put aside, when the latter came into the same house. Latooli- booloo assumed the privilege of taking am'thing from the people, even if it belonged to the King; and yet, in the ceremony called "Natche," he assisted only in the same manner as the other principal meii. He waa looked upon by his countrymen as a madman ; and many of his actions seemed to confirm this judgment At Eooa they showed me a good deal of land said to belong to him ; and I saw there a son of his, a child whom they distinguished by the same title as his father. The son of the greatest prince in Europe could not m more humoured and caressed than this little " Tammaha " was.* » In Chapter VII. of this Book, ante, p. 135. * The remainder of the Chapter is omitted ; it is taken up with linguis- tic speculations, and lists of similar words current at the Friendly Islands an^ Otaheite ; and with a technical record of the nautical and astronomi> cal observations ma^e during the e» joum at Tongatabua les COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III. Ch. I BOOK IIL TRANSACTIONS AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETY ISLANDS ; AND PROSECUTION OP THE VOYAGE TO THE COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. CHAPTER I. Havino taken onr final leave of the Friendly Islands, I now reaume my narrative of the voyage. In the even- ing of the 17tli of July, at 8 o'clock, the body of Eooa bore NE. by N., distant three or four leagues. The wind was now at E., and blew a fresh gale. With it I stood to the S. till Lalf-an-hour past 6 o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall from the same direction took our ship aback ; and before the sails could be trimmed on the other tack, the main- sail and top-gallant sails were much torn. ITie wind kept between the SW. and SE. on the 19th and 20th ; afterward it veered to the ENE., and ■S. The night between the 20th and 21st an eclipse of the moon was observed. I continued to stretch to the ESE., with the wind at NE. and N., without meeting with anything worthy of note till 7 o'clock in the evening of the 29th, when we had a sudden and very heavy squall of wind from the N. At this time we were under single reefed topsails, courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces ; and it was with difficulty that we saved the other sails. After this squall, we observed several lights moving about on board the Discovery, by which we concluded that something had given way ; and the next morning we saw that her main-topmast had been lost. Both wind and weather continued very un- settled till noon this day, when the latter cleared up, and the former settled in the NW. quarter. At this time we were in the Latitude of 28° 6' S., and our Longitude was 198° 23' E. Here we saw some pintado birds, being the first since we left the land. On the 31st at noon Captain Clerks made a signal to speak with me. By the return of the boat which I sent on board his ship, he informed me that the head of the mainmast had been discovered to be sprung in such a manner as to render the rigging of another topmast very dangerous, and that therefore he must rig something lighter in its place. He also informed me that he nad lost bis maintop* gallantyard, and that he neither had another nor a spar to make one on board. The Besolution's spritsail and topsail-yard, which I sent him, suppli^ this want. The next dav wo ^ot np a jury topmast, on which ho set a mizzen topsail, and this en- abled him to keep way with the Re- solution. The wmd was fixed in th4 western board — that is, from the N. round by the "W. to S., and I steered E. and NE., without meeting with anything remarkable, till 11 o'clock in the morning of the 8th of August, when the land was seen bearing NNE. nine or ten leagues distant. At first it appeared in detached hills, like so many separate islands, but as we drew nearer we found that they were all connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I steered directly for it, with a fine gale at SE. by S., and at half-post 6 o'clock in the afternoon it extended from N. by E. to NNE. three-quarters £., distant tliree or four leagues. The night was spent standing off and on, and at daybreak the next morning I steered for the NW., or leeside of the island ; and as we stood round its S. or SW. part, we saw it evcrjrwhcre yarded by a reef of coral rock, extendmg in some places a full mile from the land, and a high surf beating upon it. Some thought that they saw laud to the southward of this island, but as that was to the windward it wan left undetermined. THE ISLAND TOOBOUAI DISCOVERED. 18# and in 210* 87' £. Lon^tude. Its AtJO;1777.] As we drew near we saw people on several parts of the coast, walking or runninj^ along sliore, and in a little time alter we had reached the leeside of the island we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and paddled toward us. I now shortened sail, as well to eive these canoes time to come up with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance of about balf-a-mile from the reef we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand. Nearer in, the bottom was strewed with coral rocks. The canoes having advanced to about the distance of a pistol-shot from the ship, there stop- ped. Omai was employed, as he uiiually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence to prevail upon the men in them to come nearer, hut no entreaties could induce them to trust themselves within our reach. They kept eagerly pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling to us to go thither ; and several of their countrymen who stood upon the beach held up something white, which we considered also as an invitation to land. We could very well have done this, as there was good anchoitige without the reef, and a break or open- ing in it, from whence the canoes had come out, which had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water for the ships, there was more than suffi- cient for the boats. But I did not think proper to risk losing the advan* tage of a fair wind for the sake of examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence. We stood in no need of reCreshraents, if I had been sure of meeting with them there ; and having already been so unexpect- edly delayed in my progress to the Society Islands, I was desirous of avoiding every possibility of further retardment. For this reason, after making several unsuccessful attempts to induce tiicse people to come along- side, I made sail to the north, and left them, but not without getting from them during their vicinity to our ship the name of their island, which they called Toobouai. It is situated in the Latitude of 22* 15' S., greatest extent in any direction, ex> elusive of the reef is not above live or six miles. After leaving this island, I steered to the N. with a fresh gale at E. by S., and at daybreak in the momiiiff of the 12th we saw the island of Maitea. Soon after Otaheite made its appearance, and at noon it ex* tended from SW. by W. to WNW., the point of Oheitepeha Bay, bearing W., about four leagues distant. I steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what refreshments I could from the SE. part of the island before I went down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood of which station I expected my prin< cipol supply. We had a fresh g-.da easterly till 2 o'clock in the afternoon, when, bein^ about a league from the bay, the wind suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baffling light ail's from every direction, and calms by turns. Thu lasted about two hours ; then we had sudden squalls, with rain, from the east These earned us before the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and at- tempted in vain to work in, to gain the anchoring place ; so that at last, about 9 o'clock, we were obliged to stand out and to spend the night at sea. When we first drew near the island several canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men. But as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They did not even seem to perceive that he was one of their countrymen, although they conversed with him for some time. At length a chief whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain Fumeaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both sides^ till Omai, having takan his brothet 170 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III. Ch, I. dowu into tlie cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being pre- sently Icnown amongst the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of aiTairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they mif^t be "tayos,^ and exchange names. Omai ^cepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers, and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us that it was not the man, but his property, they were in love with. Had he not shown them his treasure of red fea- tliers, which is the commodity in greatest estimation at the island, I question much whether they would have bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's first reception among his countrymen. I own 1 never expected it would be otherwise, but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents with which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him would be the means of raising him into consequence, and. of making him respected and even courted by the first persons throughout the ex- tent of uie Society Islands. This could not but have happened had he conducted himself witn any degree of prudence. But instead of it, I am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by every design- inj; knave. From the natives who came off to ns in the course of this da^ we learned that two ships had twice been in Oheiteneha Bay ^ince my last visit to this island, in 1774, and that they had left animals there such as we had on board. But on further inquiry we found they were only hogs, doge, goats, one bull, and the male of some other animal, which from the imper- fect description now given us we could not fijid out. The^ told as that these sfaipa had come mm a place called " Ueema," by which we guessed that ' Friends. Lima, the capital of Peru, wm meant, and that these late visitors were Spaniards. We were informed that the first time they came they built a house, and left four men behind them — viz., two priests, a boy or servant, and a fourth person, called Mateema, who was mucn spoken of at this time, carrying away with them when they sailed four of the natives; that in about ten months the same two shiiw returned, bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima ; and that after a short stay they took away their own people, but that the house which they had built was left st&nding. The important news of red feathers being on board our ships having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to break next morning than we were surrounded br a multitude of canoes crowded with people, bringing hogs and fhiit to market. At first, a quantity of feathers not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit would purcnase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But as almost everybody in the ships was possessed of some of this precious article in trade, it fell in its value above 600 per cent before night How- ever, even then the balance was much in our favour ; and red feathers con- tinued to ^ireserve their superiority over every other commodity. Some of the natives would not part with a hog unless they received an axe in exchange; but nails, and beads, and other trinkets, which during our for- mer voyages had so great a run at this island, were now so much despised that few would deign so much as to look at them. There being but little wind all the morning, it was 9 o'clock before we could ^ to an anchor in the bay, where we moored with two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see him. I was happy to observe that much to the honour of them both, their meet' ing was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than to be described. This moving scene having cloeed, and the Avo. 1777.J TRACES OF A VISIT MADE BY SPANIARDS. i7l •hip being properly moored, Omai tnd I went aahore. My first object was to pay a viiiit to a man whom my friend represented as a very extra- ordinary personage indo"'i, for he said that he was the god u Bolabola. We found him seatra under one of tliosesniallawningswhich they usually oarry in their lat;ger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-bar> row. Some called him "011a" or "Orra," which is the name of the god of Bolabola ; but his own proper name was £tary. From Omai's ac- count of this person I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him ; but excepting some plantain trees that lay before him and upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which he might be distinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red feathers tied to the end of a small stick ; but, after a little conversation on inditferent matters with this Bolabola man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plen> tifuUy with teai-s of joy. I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people w!:9 had gathered round him, and went to tnke a view of the house said to be J)uilt by the strangers wlio had lately been here. I found it standing at a small distance from the beach. The wooden materials of which it was com* posed seemed to have been brought hither ready prepared, to be set up occasionally ; for ail the planks were numbered. It was divided into two small rooms ; and in the inner one were a bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the house itself, which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built over it There were scuttles all around which served as air holes ; and per- haps they were also meant to fire from with muskets, if ever this should be found necessary. At a little distance from the front stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which was cut the following inscription : •' C^ristuM vincU." And on the perpendicular part (which confirmed our comecture tnat the two ships were Spanish) : "Carolualll. Imperat. 1774." On the other side of the post I r^re* served the memory of the prior v .aits of the English by inscribing : "Oeorgiiu Tertiu* Bex, Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777." The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, the grave of the Commodore of the two ships, who had died here while tliey lay in the bay the first time. His name, as they pronounced it, was Oreede. What- ever the intentions of the Spaniards in visiting this island might be, they seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves with the inb bitants ; who upon every occasion mentioned them with the strongest expressions of esteem and veneration. 1 met with no chief of any consider- able note on -this occasion excepting the extraordinary personage above de- scribed. Waheiadooa, the sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the island is called), was now absent ; and I afterwards found that he was not the same person, though of the same name, wiui the chief whom I had seen here during my last voyage, but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had succeeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about twenty months before our arrival. We also learned that the celebrated Oberea was dead, but that Otoo and all oiir other friends were living. When I returned from vieMring the house and cross erected by the Spaniards, I found Omai holiling forth to a lai^e company ; and it was with some dim> cnlty tliat he could be got away to accompany me on board, where I had an important affair to settle. On our landing [on the 17th] wo first visited Etary, who, carried on a 172 COOK'S VOYAGES. hai d-barraw, attended ua to a large houiH). tvhere bti was set down, and we seated onrselvea on each side of him. I caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, on which 1 laid the presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended by his mother and several principal men, who all seated themselves at the otiicr end of the cloth, facing ns. Then a man who sat by me made a s])eech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the opposite side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai ; and both of them were answered from the same quarter. Tliese orations were entirely about my arrival, and con- nections with them. The person who spoke last told me, amongst other things, that the men of "Keema," that is, the Spaniards, had desired tliem not to suffer me to come into Oheitepoha Bay if I should return any more to the island, for that it belonged to them ; but that they were so far from paying any regard to this request, that he was authoiised now to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and every- thing in it ; whicli marks very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating them- selves to present circumstances. At length the young chief was directed by his attendant!! to come and em- brace me ; and by way of confirming this treaty of friendship we exchangeu names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on board to dinner. Omai had prepared a " maro," com- posed of red and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the King of the whole island ; and, considering where we were, it was a present of very great value. I said all that I could to ])er- •uade him not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on board till «n opjwrtunity should offer of pre- senting it to Otoo with his own hands. But he had too good an oninion of the honesty and fidelity of nis country- men to take my advice. Itothing CyoT.III.B.III.OH.L would serve him but to carry it ashon on this occasion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being addo«l to the royal "maro." He thought by this management that he should oblige both chiefs; whereas he highly disobliged the one whose favour w«« of the most consequence to him, with- out gaining any reward from th« other. What I had foreseen hap- pened ; for Waheiadooa kept the "maro" for himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of featliers, not the twentieth part of what be- longed to the magnificent present On the 19th this young chief made me a present of ten or a dozen hogs, a r,iian- tity of fruit, and some cloth. 1 rmitted to enter. Two men con- stantly attended nieht and day, not only to watch over the plnce, but also to dress and undress the "toopapaoo. " For when I first went to survey it, the cloth and its a])|icndages were all rolled up ; but at my request the two attendants hung it out in order, first dressing themselves in clean white robes. They told me that the chief had been dcnd twenty months. Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all our other ne- cessary operiitions, on the 22d I brought off the cattle and sheep which had been put on shore here to grue, and made ready for sea. In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, Omai and I landed to take leave of the young chief. While we were with him, one of those enthusiastic persons whom they call •* £atooas," from a persuasion that they are possessed with the spirit of the Divinity, came and stood before us. He had all the ap])earance of a man not in his right senses, and his only dress was a large quantity of plantain leaves wrap))e(l round his waist. Ht spoke in a low squeaking Toice so as hardly to be understood, at least not by me. But Oniai snid that he comprehended him perfectly, •nd that he was advising Waheiadooa not to go with mo to Matavai, an ex- pedition which I hod never heard he intended, nor had I ever made such a Jtroposnl to him. The " Eatooa " also bretold that the ships would not get to Matavai that duy. But in this he was mistaken, though appearances jow rather favoured his prediction, there not being a breath of wind in any direction. While he was prophe- sying, there fell a rery heary shower of rain, which made every one run for shelter but himself, who seemed not to regard it. He remained squeaking by us about half-an-hour, and then retired. No ono paid any attention to what he uttered, though some laughed at him. I asked the chief what he was, whether an ** En roe " or a ••Towtow," and the answer 1 received was, that ho was "taatoeno," that is, a bad man. And yet, notwith< standing this, and the little notice any of the natives seemed to take of the mad prophet, superstition has so far got the better of their reason that they firmly believe such persons to be possessed with the spirit of the " Ea- tooa." Omai seemed to be very well instructed about them. He said that during the fits that came u^ton them they knew nobody, not even their most intimate acquaintances ; and that if any one of them happens to be a man of property he will very often give away every movable he is pos- sessed of if his friends do not put them out of his reach ; and when he recovers, will inquire what had be- come of those very things which he had but just before distributed, not seeming to have the leastremembrance of what he hod done while the fit was upon him. As 800V. iB I got on board a light breeze springing up at E., wo got under sail and steered for Matavni Kay, where the Resolution anchored the same evening. But the Discovery did not get in tul the next morning, so that half of the man's prophecy was fulfilled. CHAPTER II. Abottt 9 o'clock in the morning, Oto(x the King of the whole island, attended by a great number of canoes full of I>eople, came from Oparre, his place of residence ; and having landed on Matavai Point, sent a message on l)oard expressing his desire to see me there. Accordingly I landed, accom« panied by Omai and some of the ofll« 174 COOK'S V0YAGE3. eers. We found a prodigioas number of neople assembled on this occasion, ana in the midst of tbem was the King, attended by bis father, hid two brothers, and three sisters. I went op first and! saluted him, being fol- lowed by Omai, who kneeled and em- braced his legs. He bad prepared himself for this ceremony by dressing himself in his very best suit of clothes, and behaved with a groat deal of re- spect and modesty. Nevertheless, very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in pro- ducing this cold reception. He nuule the chief a present of a large piece of red feathers and about two or three yards of golr^ cloth ; and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, what was uf more Talue than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers and one of tne bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. After the hurry of this visit wna over, the King and the whole royal fiUnily accompanied me en board, fol- lowed by several canoes laden with all kinds of provisions, in quantity suffi- cient to have served the comiKinies of both ships for a week. Eacli of the family owned, or pretended to own, a part, so that I had a present trom every one of them ; and every one of tliem had a 8e{>arate present in return from me, whicit was the great object in view. Soon after, the King's mother, who had not been present at the first interview, came on board, bringing with her a (quantity of pro- visions and cloth, which she divided between me and Omai. For although he was but little noticed at first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained the knowledge of his riches than they began to court his friend- ship. I encouragvMl this as much as I could, for it wa.s my wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave all my Euroijean animals at this island, I thought he would be able tc ((ivo lome instruction about the manage- ment of them and about their use. Besides, I knew and saw that the farther he was from his native island ha would be the better respected. But [VoY.III.B.III.Cu.lI. unfortunately poor Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himself in so imprudent a manner that he soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other person of note in Otaheite. He associat<: 'ith none but vagabonds and Strang is, whose sole views were '^0 plunder him ; and if I had not in- warfered they would not have left him a single article worth the carry- ing from the island. This necessarily drew upon him the ill-will of the principal chiefs, who found that they could not procure from any one in the ships such valuable presents as Omai bestowed on ihe lowest of the people, hia comiMnions. As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, taking with us the poultry with which we were to stock the island. They consisted of a peacock and hen (which I^ord Bessborough was so kind as to send me for thic purpose a few days before I left London), a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, a drake and four ducks. All these 1 left at Oparre in the possession of Otoo; and the geese and ducks Vgan to breed before we liailod. We found there a gander which the na- tives told us v,aa the same that Cap- tain Wallis had given to Obcrea tea years before, several goats, and the Spanish bull, which they kept tied to a tree near Otoo 'a houue. 1 never saw a finer animal of his kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had been brought from Oheitepeha to this place in order to be shipftcd for Bolabola. But it passes my com- prehension how they can contrive to carry him in one of their canoes. If we liatl not arrived, it would have been of little consequer.ee who had the properly of him, as without a cow ho could be of no use, and none had been left with him. Though the natives told us that there were cows on board the Spanish ships, and that they took them away with them, I cannot believe this, and should rather suppose that they hail died in the passage from Lima. The next day I sent the threo oows that I had on booi-d to this bull : and the bull which Aoo. 1777.] EUROPEAN ANIMALS LANDED. 'm I had brought, the hone and mMre, and sheep, I put ashore at Matarai. Having thus disposed of these tms- sengers, I found myself lightened of a very heavy huvthen. The trouble and vexation that attended the bring- ing of this living cargo thus far u hanlly to be conceived ; but the satis- faction that I felt in having been so fortunate as to fulfil bis Majestv's humane design in sending such valu- able animals to supply the wants of two worthy nations, sufficiently re- cou][>en8ed me for the many anxious hours I had passed before this subor- dinate object of m^ voyage could be carried into execution. As I intended to make some stay here, we set up the two observatorios on Matavai Point. Adjoining to them two ten s were pitched for the recep- tion of A ^ard, and of such people as it might be necessary to leave on shore in different departments. At this station I entrusted the commanlRnds aeveral shaddock trees. These I also planted hert>, and the^ can hardly fail of tocceas, unless their growth should b« checked bv the same premature curiosity which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniarda at Oheitcpeha A number of the natives got together to taste th« firrt fruit it bore ; but as the ^{>as want still aonr th^ oonsidered It as little better than poison, and it was unanimously determined to tread it under foot In that state Omai found it by chance, and was oveijoyed at the discovery; for he had a full confidence that if he had but gra{iefl he could easily make wine. Accord- ingly he had several slips cut from off the tree to carry away with him, and wo pruned and put in order the re- mains of it. ' ■ :t)ably grown wise by Omai's instnvi ' Ions, they may now suffer the fruit to grow to perfection, and not pass so hasty a sentence upon it again. We had not been ei^ht-and-forty hours at anchor in Matavai Hay be- fore we wore visited by our old friends whose names are recorded in the ac- count of my last voyage. Not one of them came empty-handed, so that we had more provisions than we knew what to do with. What was still more, we were under no apprf>hen. sions of exhausting the island, which presented to our eyes every mark of the most exuberant plenty in every article of refreahniont. Soon after our arrival here, one of the natives whom the Spaniards had carried with them to Lima paid us a visit ; but in his external apj>earance he was not dintinguishable from the rest of hii countrymen. However, he had not furgot some Spaniah words which ha had acquired, though he pronounced them oMJly. Amongst them the must frequent were " Si, Sef\or; " and when a stranger was introduced to him he did not fail to rise up and accost him as well as he could. We also found hern tiio young man whom we called Oedidee, but whose reiU name is Heete-heete. I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774, after he had visited the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, Easter Island, and the Marquesas, and l>een on board my ship in that extensive navigation about seven months. He was at least as tenaci- ous of his good breeding as the man who had been at Lima, and " Yea, Sir," or " If you please, Sir," were as frequently repeated by liim a« " Si, 176 Soflor" was by the other. Heete- heete, who is a native of Bolaboia, had arrived in Otaheite about three months before, with no other inten- tion that we could learn than to gra- tify his curiosity, or perhaps some other favourite passion, which are verj' oftfsn the only object of the fursuit of other travelling gentlemen, t was evident, however, that he pre- ferred the modes and even jrarb of his countrymen to ours ; for though I gave him some clothes which our Ad- miralty Board had been pleased to send for his use (to which 1 added a chest of tools and a few other articles as a present from myself), he declined wearing thetn after a few days. This instance, and that of the person who had been at Lima, may be urged as a proof of the strong propensity natural to man of returning to habits acquired at an early age, and only interrupted by accident. And perhaps it may be concluded that even Omai, who had imbibed almost the whole English manners, will in a very short time after our leaving him, like Oedidee and the visitor of Lima, return to his own native garments. In the morning of the 27th a man came from Oheitej^eha, and told us that two Spanish sliips had anchored in that bay the night before ; and in coniii-mation of this intcliigence he produced a piece of coarse blue cloth, which he said he got out of one of the ships, and which, indeed, to ap- pearance was almost quite new. He added that Mateema was in one of the »hi[>s, and that they were to come down to Matavai in a day or two. Some other circumstances which he mentioned with the foregoing ones, gave the story so much the air of truth, that I despatched iiieutenanl Willifin.'ion in a boat to look into Oheitepeha Bay ; and in the mean- time I put the ships into a proper gssture of defence. For though ngland and Spain were in peace when I left Euroi)e, for aught I knew a dilfercnt scene might by this time have o|iened. However, oh further Inquiry we had reason to think that llie fellow who brought the inlelli- OOOK'S VOYAGES. [ VoY. IIL B. III. C«. II. gence had imposed upon us ; and thia was i>ut beyond all doubt wh«n Mr Williamson returned next day, wlio made his report to me that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found tlutt no ships were there now, and that none hail been there since we left it The people of this part of the island where we now were, indeed, told ua from the beginning that it was a fiction invented by those of Tiaraboo. But what view tbpy could have we were at a loss to conceive, unless they supjKtsed that the rejwrt would havo some effect in making us quit the island, and W that means deprive the people oi Otaheite-nuoe of the advantages they might reap from our ships continuing there; toe inhabi- tanta of the two parts of the island being inveterate enemies to each other. From the time of onr arrival at Matavai the weather had boon very unsettled^ with more or less rain every day, till the 29th ; before which we were not able to get equal altitudes of the sun for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper. The same cause also retarded the calking and other necessary repairs of the 6hij)S. Ih the evening v.f this day tlie natives made a precipitate retreat both from on board the ships and from our station on shore, for what reason we could not at first learn, though in general we guessed it arose from thuir knowing that some theft had been committed, and apprehending punish- ment on that account. At length I understood what had happened. One of the surgeon's mates had been in the country to purchase curiosities, and had taken with him four hatchets for that purpose. Having employed one of the natives to carry them for him, the fellow took an opportunity to run off with so valuable a prize. This was the cause of the sudden flight, in which Otoo himself and his whole family had joined ; and it was with difficulty that I stopped them, after following tliein two or tlire« miles. As I had resolved to take no measures for the recovery of the hutchets, in order to put my peopl* upon their giiard against such Dcgli* Sept. 1777.] WAR WITH EIMEO gence for the future, I found no diffi- culty in bringing tlifi natives bnck and in rcsto!ing everytliing to its usual tranqnillity. Hitherto the attention of Otoo and his people had been confined to us; hut next morning a new scene of business opened oy the arrival of some nies.son!,'ei-s from Eimeo or (as it is much oft^ner called by the na- tives) Morea,' with intellij^enco that the people in that island were in arms, and that Otoo'.^ pailiisans there had been worsted and obliged to re- treat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two islands, which com- menced ^n 1774, had, it seems, partly •ubsistt'd ever since. . , . On the arnval of these messengers, all the chiefs who happened to be at Matavui assembl'id at Otoo's house, ■svii^re I actually was at the time, and Iwl the honour to be admitted into tflcir council. One of the messengers opened the business of the assembly in a speech of cons derable length ; but I understood little of it besiiles its general purport, which was to ex- plain the situation of aifairs in Eimeo, and to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheit" tu arm on the occasion. Tliif opinion_^wn3 combated by others wild were against coMmencing hos- tilities ; and the deoate was carried on with great order, no more than one man speaking at a time. At last they became very noisy, and I ex- pected that our meetiujj would have ended like a Polish Diet. But the confeiuling great men cooled as fast as they giew warm, and order was goon rectorod. At length the party for war prevailed, and it was deter- mined that a strong force should be sent to assist their friends in Eimeo. But this resolution was far from Vwing unanimous. Otoo during the whole debate remained silent, except that now and thf^n he addressed a wort! or two to the si>enkei-8. Those of the council who were for prosecuting the war aiiplied to mo for my nssistance ; and all of them wanted to know what ' Morea, according to Dr Foiuter, ia a district in Eim«o. DETERMINED UPOK. 177 part I would take. Omai was sent for to be my intei-preter ; but as he could not be foiind I was obliged to speak for myself, and told tliem. as well iis I could, that as I was not thoroughly acquainted with the disjiute, and as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think myself at liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With this declaration they either were or seemed satisfied. The assembly then broke up ; but before I left them Otoo desired me to como to him in the afternoon, and to bring Omai with me. Accordingly, a party of us waited upon him at the ap pointed time, and we were conducted by him to his father, in whose pre- sence the dispute with Eimeo wag again talked over. Being very desir- ous of devising some method to bring about an accommodation, I sounded the old chief on that bead ; but we found him deaf to any such proposal, and fully determined to prosecute tiia war. He repeated the solicitations which I had already resisted about ^ving them my assistance. On our inquiring into tlio cause of the war, we were told, that some years ago a brother of Waheiadooa, of Tiaraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to he their king ; but that he had not been there a week before Maheine, having caused him to be killed, set up for himself, in opposi- tion to Tieratalwonooe, his sister s son, wi:o became .the Inwful heir, or else had l>c»n pitchwi ujton by the people of Otaheito to succeed to the govern- ment on the Jeath of the other. Towli!*, who is a relation of (^ioo and chief cf the district of Tcttnha, a man of much weight in tho island, and who had !»een comnuinder-in- chief of tlu^ armament fitted sat agcinst Eimeo in 177*, happenpiOoro«i, which was about 2 o'clock in tho COOK'S VOYAGES. [YoY. III. B. 111. Cn. II. aftemotti, Otoo expressed hia deeire that the rjamen might be ordered to remain in the boat ; and that Mr Anderson, Mr Webber, and myself, might take off our hats as soon as we should come to the "morai," to which we immediately proceeded, at- tended by a great many men and some boys, but not one woman. We found four priests and their at*-" ... ants orassi-stanta waiting for us. The dead body, or wicrifico, was in a small canoe that lay on the beach, and partly in the wash of the sea, fronting the "morai." Two of the priests, with some of their attendants, were sitting by the canoe ; the others at the "morai." Our company stopped about twenty or thirty paces from the priests. Here Otoo placed himself; we and a few others standing by him, while the bulk of the i>eople remained at a greater distance. The ceremonies now began. One of the priest's attendants brought a yoimg i)lantain tree and laid it down before Otoo. Another approached with a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the cocoa- nut husk, with which he touched one of +he King's feet, and then retired with it to his companions. One of the priests seated at the "'morai," facing those who were ujion the beach, now began a long prayer, and at certain times sent down voung plantain tr ea, which were l.Id upon the sacrilice. During this prayer, a man who stood by the officiating priest hehl in his hands two bumiies, seemingly of cloth. In one of them, as we after- ward found, was the royal "maro," and the other, if 1 may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the "Eatooa." As soon as the prayer was ende«l, the priests at the " morai," with their attendants, went and «»t down by tho.se upon the beach, carry- ing with them the two bundles. Hero they renewed their prayers, , and brjinches, and laid in a parallel direction with the sea- shore. One of the j»iest» then, stand- ing at the fVet ot it, ^n-onounced a long prayr, in which be \va« at times joined by the ofiiers, etich holding in his baud a tuft of red feathers. In the course of tiiis prayer, gome hair was pulled off the bead of the sacri- fice, and the left eye taken out ; both which were presented to Otoo, wrap- ped up in a green loaf. He did not, however, touch it, but gave to tlic man who f)retiented it the tuft of fi^athers which he had received from Tuwhu. This, with the hair and eye, was carried back to the priests. Soon after, Otoo sent to them another jjieceof feathers, which he had given mo m the morning to keep in my (Kxikct. During some jjfirt ot this last cere- mony, a kingiisher making a noise in the tiees, Otoo turned to me, saying, "That is the ' Eatooa,'" and seemed to look upon it to l)e a good omen. The body Wiis then carried a little way, witii its hea« pnesta tuok their stations; nvA were now allowed to go as n«. r Ht, -»« pleased. He who «eemeoke for a quaitcr of an hour, but with ditlcrent tones and gestures w that hesccmud oHen to «x})osti' la with the dead jierson, to whom he constantly ad- uroKscd liimMlf ; and sometimw asked several questions, seemingly with r«- s})ect to tht proprif ty of his having lieen killed. At other uuiea he made wveral demands, as if tii«> deceaMeeen coUect'nl in a cocoa-nut shell aud dried over the fire, was, with the liver, kc, carried and laid down before the prietie, who sat praying round the grave. They 180' COOK'S VOYAGES continued tbeir ejaculations over t)ie dog for some time, wliile two men, at intervals, beat on two drums very loud ; and a l)oy screamed, as before, in a loud, slirill voice tbree diflereiit times. Tliis, as we were told, was to invite the " Eatooa " to feast on the banquet that they had prepu-'d for him. As soon aa the priests had ended their pniyers, the carcase of the dog, with what belonged to it, were laid on a " wlmtta," or scallbld, about six feet high, that stoml close b)', on which lay the reinains of two other dogs and of two pigs which had lately been sacrificed and at this time emitted an intolerable stench. This kept us at a greater distance than •would otherwise have been required of us. For after the victim was re- moved from the seaside toward the " morni, " we were allowed tc approach as near as we pleased. Indeed, after that, ueither seriousness norattention were much observed by the specta- tors. When the dog was put upon the " whatta," the priests and attend- ants gave a kind of shout, which closed the ceremonies for the present. The day being now also closed, we were conducted to a house belonging to Potatou, where we were entertained and lodged for the night. Wo had been told that the religious rites were to be renewed in the morning; and I would not leave the place, wliiie anything remained to be seen. Being unwilling to lose any part of the solemnity, some of us repaired to the scene of action pretty early, but found nothing going forward. How- ever, soon alter, a pig was sacrificed und laid upon the same " whatta'* with the others. About 8 o'clock, Otoo took us again to the "morai," where the priests and a great number of men were by this time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place in which we had seen them deposited the preccJiiig evening; the two drums stood in the front of the "morai," but somew'iat nearer it than before; and tlie priests w«w Insyond them. Otoo placed himsetf between the two drums, and desired me t* fteau by him. The ceremony htf^m fl» oaufti [VoY.iii.B.iii.CH.ir. with bringing a young plantain -tree and laying it down at the King's feet After this a prayer was repeated by the priests, woo held in their hands several tufts of red feathers, and also a plume of o.strich feathers, which I had given to Otoo on my first arrival, and wliich had been consecrated to this use. When the priests had made an end of the prayer, they changed their station, ])lacing themselves De« tween us and the " morai ;" and one of them — the same person who had acted the principal part the day before — began another prayer, which lasted about half-an-hour. During the continuance of this, the tufts or feathers wore one by one carried and laid upon the ark of the '* Eatooa." Some little time after, four jnfgt were produced; one of which w«8 immediately killed, and the others were taken to a sty hard by, probably reserved for some future occasion of sacrifice. One of the bundles was now untied, and it was found, as I have before observed, to contain the "maro," with which these people invest tbeir kings ; and which seems to answer in some degree to the Euro* rM>an ensigns of royalty. It was care- ruUy taken out of the cloth in which it had been wrapped up, and spread at full length ui>on the ground before the priests. It is a girdle about five yards long and fifteen inches broad ; and from its name seems to be put ou in the same manner as is the com- mon "maro," or piece of cloth, used by these people to wrap round the waist. It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers, but mostly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon the island. The one end was bordered with eight pieces, each about the size and shape of a boi"8e-shoe, having their edges fringed winh black feathers. The other end was forked, and the points were of diifercnt lengths. 'The feathers were in square compartments, ranged in two rows, and otherwise so disposed as to pro- duce a pleasing effect. They nad been first pasted or fixed upon some of their own country cloth, and then sewed to the upper end of the pen. SBrt.l???.] OTHER CEREMONIES AT THE " MORAL' dant which Captain Wallis had dis- played, and left flying ashore, the farst time that he landed at Mntuvai. This was what they told us ; and we hud no reiusou to doubt it, as we could o«sily trace the remains of an English i>«nuiint About six or eight inches square of the " maru " was un- ornamented ; thcra being no fcatliers upon that spam, except a few that had been sent by H'aheiaduoa, as already meutioned. 1'ho priests made a long prayer relative to this part of the ceremony, and, if I mistook not, they iuma, pro- had called it the prayer of the "maro. ' When it waii finished, the badge of royalty was carefully folded up, put into the cloth, and deposited again u^MU the "norai." The other bundle which I hnve distingublied by the name of the ark. was next opened at one end ; but we were not allowed to ^o near enough to examine Us myster- ious contents. The intormation we received was, that the " I<^tooa " to whom they had l)een sacriticing, and whose name is ' Ooru," was concealed in it; or rather what is KU|ii>osed to repreftont him. This sacred i-epository is made of tlie twisted fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, sha]>ed some- what like a large fid, or sugar-loal — that is, roundish, with one end much thicker than tlie other. We had very often got small oiieii from different people, but never knewtheir use before. By tbL time the pig that had been killed was cleaned, and the entrails taken out. These ha)>|iened tu have • considerable Hliare ol those convul- kivo motions which often apiwur in different ])arts after an animal is killed, and this was considered by the 8i)cct.ator8 as a very favourable omen to tlia ex|ieilition on account of whii'li the sacrifices had been offered. After bein^ exitosed for some time, that thi>8« who ciioosc might exaniine their M|<))earant'e8, the entrails were carri(>d to the nricsts and luid down before them. While one of the num- ber pra)v«l, another inspected the entrails more narrowly, and kept turning them gently with a stick. ^ , ' There is a grot«>8(|uo analogy b«- 181 When they had been aa£5ciently examined, they were tlirown into the fire and left to consume. The sacri- ficed pig, and its liver, &c., were now put U|K)n the "whatta" where tha dog had been deiwsited the day be* fore ; then all the feathera, except the ostrich plume, were enclosed with the " Eatooa" in the ark ; and the solemnity finally closed. Four double canoes lay uiiou the beach before the place of sacrifice all the morning. On the fore-pait of each of these was fixed a small platform covered with palm-leuves tied in mysterious knots; and this also is called a " moral. " Some cocoa-nuts, plantiiins, pieces of bre^ui-fruit, fisli, and other things, lay uiH>n each of tliese naval "niorais. ' We were told tliat they belonged to the " Eatooa;" and tliat they were to attend the fleet designed to go against Eimeo. T!iu unhappy victim offered to th« object of tlteir worship upon this oo> casjon seemed to ):)e a middle-aged man, and, a:( we were told, was a tovv< tow — that :a, one of the lowest class of the people. But, after all my inrpiiries, I could not learn that h* hud been pitched ujMn o'l account of any particular crime coi -mitted by him meriting death. It is certain, however, that they generally inaka choi(!e of such guilty persons for their sacrifice ; or else of common low fel* lows, wtio stroll about from place to place and from island to island with* out having any fixed abode or any vinible way of getting an honest live* lihood ; of whicli description of men enough am to be met with at these islands. Having had an opportunity of examining the apvtcarance of the boily of the jwor sufferer now offered up, I could observe that it was bluody about tlte heuxl and face, and a good deal bruised \i{)on the right temple, which marked the manner of his being tween these South S** soothsayers and the Uunun " hanuspices, " whose never higU^hliutoared craft it was to draw oim«m of good or ill from the entraik «< victims slain in the sauM sort at uitonogatory sacrifice. m COOK'S VOYAGES killed. And we were told that he had been privately knocked on the head with a stone. Tliose who are devoted to sutfer, in order to perform this bloody act of worship, are never ap- prized of their fate till the blow is given that puts an end to their exi«t- ence. Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice neces- sary on any particular emergency, he E itches upon the victim. Some of is trusty servants are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly and put him to death with a club or by stoning him. The King is next acquainted with it, whose presence at the solemn rites that follow is, as I was told, absolutely necessary ; and indeed on the present occasion we could observe lluit Otoo bore a principal part. The solemnity itself is called " Poore Eree," or chief's prayer; and the victim, who is oHered up, "Taata- taboo," or consecrated man. This is the only instance where we have heard the word "taboo " used at this island, where it seems to have the same mysterious signification as at Tonga ; though it is there applied to all cases where things are nut to be touched. But at Otaheite the word "raa" serves the same purpose, and is full as extensive in its meaning. The ••morai " (wliich, undoubtedly, is a place of worship, sacrifice, and burial, at the same time) where the •acrilice was now offered, is that where the supreme chief of the whole iiiland is always buried, and is appropriated to his family and some of tne princi- pal people. It differs little from the common ones except in extent. Its principal part is a large, oblong ])ile of stones, lying loosely upon each other, about twelve or fourteen feet high, contracted towards the top, with a square area on each side loosely pavetl with pebble stones, under which the bunes of the chiefs are buried. At a little distance from the end nearest the sea is the place where the sacri- fices are offered ; whicli, for a con- ciderable extent, is also loosely paved. There is Uc: ^ a very large scafibhl, or "whatta," on which the offerings of fruits add other vegetables are kid. [Voy.III.B.III.Ch.11. But the animals are deposited on • smaller one, already mentioneil, and the human sacrifices are buried under different ]iarts of the pavement. There are several other relics which ignorant su})erstition had scattered about this place ; such as small stones, raised in different parts of the pavement, some ."ith bits of cloth tied round them, others covered with it ; and upon the sido of the large pile which fronts tlie area are placed a great many pieces of carved wood, which are supposed to be sometimes the residence of their divinities, and consequently held sacred. But one place, more particu- lar than the rest, is a heap of stones, at one end of the large "whatta," before which the sacrifice was offered, with a kind of piatfbrm at one side. On this are laid the skulls of all the human sacrifices, whieli are taken up after they have been several months under ground. Just above tliem are placed a great number of the pieces of wood ; and it was also here where the "maro" and the other bundles supposed to contain the god "Ooro" (and which I call the ark) were laid during the ceremony, a circumstaiicA which denotes its agreement with tlie altar of other nations. It is much to be regretted that a practice so horrid in its own nature, and so destructive of that inviolable right of self-preservation which every one is born with, should be found still existing ; and (such is the power of superstition to counteract the first principles of humanity I) existing amongst a people in many other re- spects emerged from the brutal man- ners of savage life. What is still worse, it is probablo that these bloody rites of worship are prevalent througtiout all the wide extended islands of the Pacific Oi-ean. The similarity of cus- toms and language which our late voyages have enabled us to trace be- tween the most diNtaiitof these islands, makes it not unlikely that some of the most im]K)rtant articles of their religious institutions should agn^e. And, indeed, we have the most au- thentic information that human sacri- fices continue to be offered at the REMARKS ON BARBAROUS CEREMONIES. Sept. 1777.] Friendly Islands. When I described the " Natche " at Tongataboo, I men- tioned that, on the approaching sequel of that festival, we had been told tnat tenmenweretobe sacrificed. Thismay give us an idea of the extent of ..liis religious massacre in that island. And though we should suppose that never more than one person is sacrificed on any single occnsion at Otaheite, it is more than probable that these occa- sions happen so frequently as to make a shocking waste of the human race ; for I counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former victims lying before the "morai" where we saw one more added to the number. And as none of those skulls had as yet suffered any considerable change from the weather, it may hence be inferred that no great Ifingth of time hud elapsed since at least this considerable number of un- happy wretches bad been offered upon this altar of blood. The custom, though no considera- tion can make it cease to be abomin- able, might bethought lessdetrimental in some respects if it served to impress any awe for the Divinity, or reverence for religion, upon the minds of the multitude. But this is so far from being the case, that though a great numb«!r of people had aissembled at the "morai ' on this occasion, they did not seem to show any proper reverence for what was doing or say- ing during the celebration of the rites. And Omai happening to arrive after they had bcguu, many of the spec- tators flockoa round him and were engaged the rcninindcr of the time in making him relate some of his adven- tures, which they listened to with great attention, regardless of the solemn offices performing by their jmests. Indeed, the priests tliem- sclves, except the one who chiefly repeated the i)rayer8, either from their being familiarised to such objects, or from want of confidence in the efficacy of their institutions, observed very little of that solemnity which is neces- sary to give to religious performances their due weight. Their dress was only an ordinary one ; they conversed together without scrujde ; and the only US attempt made by them to preserve any appearance of decency was by exerting their authority to prevent the people from coming ujwn the very sfiot whore the ceremonies were performed, and to suffer us as strangers to advance a little forward. They were, however, very candid in their answers to any questions th<:t were put to them con- cerning the institution ; and particu- larly on being asked what the intention of it was. They said that it was an old custom, and was agreeable to their god, who delighted in, or in other words came and fed ui)on, the sacrl fices ; in consequence of which he complied with their petitions. U]K)e its being objected tnat he could not feed on these, ns he was neither seen to do it, nor were the botli'^s of the animals quickly consumed ; and that as to the human victim they pre- vented his feeding on him by burying him : to all this they answered, tliat he came in the night, but invisibly ; and fed only on the soul or immaterial part, which according to their doctrine remains about the place of sacrifice until the body of the victim b^ entirely wasted by putrefaction. It were much to be wished that this deluded |)eople may learn to entertain the same horror of murdering their fellow-creatures, in order to furnish such an invisible banquet to their god, as they now have of feeding corporeally on human flesh themselves. And yet wo have great reason to believe that there was a time when they were can- nibals. "We were told (and indeed partly saw it) that it is a necessary ceremony, when a poor wretch is sacrificea, for the priest to take out the left eye. This he presents to the king, holding it to hi.s mouth, which he desires him to o})en ; but instead of putting it in, immediately with- draws it. This they call " eating the man," or "food for the chief;" and perhaps wo may observe here some traces of former times, when the dead body was really feasted upon. But, not to insist upon this, it is certain that human sacrifices are not the only barbarous custom we find still prevail- ing amongst this benevolent, humane 184 EpU. For b«8ldet cutting out the •bones of their enemies slain in tie, which they carry about as trophies, they in some measure offer their dead budies as a sacrifice to tiie *' Eatooa." Soon after a battle in which they have been victors, they collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands, and bring them to the "morai," where with a great deal of ceremony they dig a hole and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to the gods ; but their skulls are never after taken up. Their own great chiefs that fall in battle are treated in a different man- ner. We were informed that their late King Tootaha, Tubourai-titmaide, and anotner chief who fell with them in the battle, fought with those of Tianiboo, and were brought to this *' moral," at Attahooroo. There their bowels were cut out by the nricsts before the great altar ; and the boilies afterward ouried in three different places, which were pointed out to us, in the great pile of stones that com- pose tlie most conspicuous part of this "morai," And thoir common men who also fell in this battle were all buried in one hole at the foot of the pile. This Omai, who was present, told me was done the day after the battle, with much pomp and cere- mony, and in the midst of a great concourse of people, as a thanksgiving offering to the *' Eatooa," for the vic- tory they had obtained ; while the vanquished bad taken refuge in the mountains. There they remained a week or ten days, till the fury of the victors was over, and a treaty set on foot by which it was agreed that Otoo should be declared King o. the whole island ; and the soleniiiity of invest- ing him with thj "maro" was per- formed at the same "morai," with great pomp, in the presence of all the principal men of the country. COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. III.Ch III. have faithfully described in the last CHAPTER III. The close of the very singular scene exhibited at the " morai, ' which I Chapter, leaving us no other business in Attahooroo, we embarked about noon in order to return to Matavai, and in our way visited Towha, who had remained on the little island where we met him the day before. Some conversation passed between Otoo and him on the present ponture of public affairs, and then the latter solicited me once more to join them in their war against Eimeo. By my positive refusal I entirely lost the jfood graces of this chief. . . . On the 14th, a party of us dined ashore with Omai, who gave excellent fare, consisting offish, fowls, pork, and puddings. After dinner, I attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his house, where I found all his servants very busy getting ft quantity of provisions reacly for me. Amongst other arti(;les there was a large hog, which they killed in my presence. The entrails were divided into eleven portions, in such a man- ner that each of them contained a bit of everything. These portions were distributed to the servants, and some dressed theirs in the same o^en with the hog, while others carried off un- dreased what had come to their share. There was also a large pudding, the whole process in making which I saw. It was composed of bread-fruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm, or Paii- aanus, nuts, each rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of juice ex])re8sed from cocoa-nut kernels was put into a large tray or wooden vessel. The other articles, hot from the oven, were de- posited in this vessel, ond a few hot stones were also put in, to make the contents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks to stir the several in.ic^redients, till they were incoqio- riited one with another, and the juice of tlio cocoa-nut was turned to oil ; so that the whole mass at last became of the consistency of a hasty-pudding. Some of these puddings are excellent, and few that we miuce in England etpial thorn. I seldom or never dined without one when I could gt't it, wliich was not always the case. loo's hog A REMAHKABLE PRESENT OF CLOTFi. two "taumes, Surr. 1777.] btiiiut l>aked, aud the pudding which I hh^e described being made, they, togethei with two living liogs and a quantity of bread-fruit and cocua- nuts, were put into a canoe and sent on board my ship, followed by my- sflf and all tiie royiil family. The following evening, a voung ram of the Cape breed, that had been lambed, and with great caro brought up on Iward the ship, waa killed by a dog. Incidents are of more or less consequence, as connected with situa- tion. In our present situation, de- sirous as I was to propagate this usetul race amongst these islands, the loss of the ram was a serious miHfortune, as it was the only one I had of that bleed, and I had only one of the English breed left. And in the even- ing of the 7th we played olf sonie fireworks before a great concourse of people. The next day a party of us dined with our former shipmate, Oedidee, on fish aud pork. The nog weighed about thirty pounds ; and it may be worth mentioning that it was alive, dressed, and brought upon the table within the hour. We bad but just dined, when Otco came and asked me if my belly was full i On my answering in the affirmative, he said, " Then come along with me." I accordingly went with him to his father's, where I found some people employed in dress- ing two girls with a prodigious quantity of fine cloth, after a very singular fashion. The one end ol each piece of cloth, of which there was a good many, was held up over the heads of the girls, while the re- mainder was wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits. Then the uplMir ends were let fall, and hung down in folds to the ground over the other, so as to bear some re- sentblance to a circular hoop- petticoat. Ai'torwni-ds, round the outside of all, were wrapped several pieces of dillcr- cntly coloured cloth, which consider- ably increased the size ; so that it was not less than five or six yards in cir- cuit, and the weight of this singular attire was as much as the poor girls could 8U2>port. To each were hung lit or breast- plates, by way of enriching the wuole, and giving it a picturesque appearance. Thus ecjuipjHjd, they wore conducted on board the ship, together with several hogs and a quantity of fruit, which, with the clotn, was a present to me from Otoo's father. Persons of either sex dressed in this manner are called "atce;" but I believe it is never practised except when large Tiresents of cloth are to be made. At least I never saw it practised upon any other occasion, nor, indeed, had I over such a present before ; but lioth Captain Clerke and I had cloth given to ua afterwards thus wrapped round the bearers. The next day 1 had a ftresent of five hogs and some fruit rom Otoo, and one Lv^ and some fruit from each of his sisters. 2?or were other provisions wanting. For two or three davs great quantiticc of mackerel had been caught by tlie natives, within the reef, in seines ; some of which they brought to the shijic and tents, and sold. Otoo was not more attentive to sup- ply our wants by a succession of pre< sents, than he was to contribute to our amusement by a succession of diver- sions. A party of us having gonb down to Oparre on the 10th, he treated US witli wbtit may be called a play. His three sisters were the actresses ; and the dresses they appeared in were new and elegant, that is, more so than we had usually met with at any of these islands. But the principal object I had in view this day in going to Oparre was to take a view of an embalmed corpse, which some of our gentlemen had happened to meet with at that place, near the residence of Otoo. On inquiry I found it to be the remains of fee, a chief well known to me when I was at this island dur- ing my last voyage. It was lying in a "toopapooo," more elegantly con- structed than their common ones, and in all respects similar to that lately seen by us at Oheitepeha, in which the remains of Waheiadooa are de^Misited, embaUned in the same man- ner. When we arrived at the place, the body was under cover and wrap* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A % .^ (/, 1.0 I.I 11.25 I4i|28 |2.5 t I4£ 12.0 2.2 6" 11= 1.4 ill 1.6 V] f fighting. Witn this view I expressed my wish to Otoo that he would oi-der some of them to go through the necessary manoeuvres. Two were accordingly ordered out into the bay, in one of which Otoo, Mr King, and myself embarked, and Omai went on board the other. When we hafl got suffi- cient sea-room, we faced and advanced upon each other, and retreated by turns, as quick' as our rowers could paddle. During this, the warriors on the stages flourished their weapons, and played a hundred antio tricks, which could answer no other end, in my judgment, than to work up their passions and prepare them for fighting. •IBPT. 1777.] MOCK FIGHT OF Otoo stood by the side of our stage, and gave the necessary oi-ders when to advance and when to retreat. In this ^at judgment r.nd a quick eye combined together seemed requisite to seize every advantage that might offer, and to avoid giving any advan- tage to tlie adversary. At last, after advancing and retreating from each other at least a dozen times, the two canoes closed, head to head or stage to stage; and after a short conflict the troops on our stage were supposed to be all killed, and we were boarded by Omai and his associates. At that Tery instant Otoo and all our paddlera leaped overboard, as if reduced to the necessity of endeavouring to save their lives by swimming. If Omai 's information is to be de- pended upon, their naval engagements are not always conducted in this man- ner. He told me that they sometimes begin with lashing the two vessels together, head to head, and then fight till all the warriors are killed on one side or the otlier. But this close com- bat, I apprehend, is never practised but when they are determined to con- quer or die. Indeed, one or the other must happen, for all agree that they never give quarter, unless it be to reserve their prisoners for a more cruel death the next day. The power and strength of these islands lie entirely in their navies. I never heard of 4 general engagement on land, and all their decisive battles are fought on the water. If the time and place of con- flict are fixed uiwn by both parties, the preceding day and night are spent in diversions and feasting. Toward morning they launch the canoes, put everything in order, and with the day begins the battle, thp fate of which generally decides the dispute. The vanquislied save themselves by a precipitate flight, and such as reach the shora fly with theij: friends to the mountains, for the victors, while their fury lasts, spare neither the aged, women, nor cliildren. The next day they assemble ut the " moral," to return thanks to the "Eatooa" for the victory, and to offer up the slain as aacrifices, and the prisoners also if WAR CANOES. 189 they have any. After this a treaty is set on foot, and the conquerors for the most part obtain their own terms, by which particular districts of land, and sometimes whole islands, change their owners. Omai told us that he was once taken a prisoner by the men of Bolabola, and carried to that island, where he and some others would have been put to death the next day if they had not found means to escape in the night As soon as this mock-fight was over, Omai put on his suit of armour, mounted a stage in one of the canoes, and was paddled all along tbe shore of tho bay, so that every one had a full view of him. His coat of mail did not draw the attention of his countrymen so much as might have been expected. Some of them, indeed, had seen a part of it before ; and there were others, again, who had taken such a dislike to Omai, from his im> prudent conduct at this place, that they would hardly look at anything, however singular, that was esdiibitm b^ him. CHAPTER IV. EARtT in tlie morning of the 22d, Otoo and his father came on board to know when I proposed sailing. For having been informed that there was a good harbour at Eipieq, I had told them that I should visit that island on my way to liuaheine; and thev were desirous of taking a passage with me, and of their fleet sailing at the time to reinforce Tow])a. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it tq th^m to name the day; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon, when I was to take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and in short the whole family. These points being settled, I pro|)osed setting out immediately for Ofmrre, where all the fleet fitted out for the expedition was to assemble this day and to be reviewed. I had but just time to get into my bqiit when news vas brought that Towha had concluded a ti'eaty with 190 Malieine, and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all further proceedings in the military way quite unnecessary; and the war-canoes, instead of rendez- vousing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. This alteration, however, did not hinder me from following Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr King and Omai. Soon after our arrival, andwhile dinner was preparing, a messenger arrived from Eiineo and related the conditions of the peace, or rather of the truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms were disadvantageous to Ota- heite, and much blame was thrown upon Otoo, whose delay in sending reinforcements had obliged Towha to submit to a disgraceful accommoda- tion. It was even currently reported that Towha, resenting his not being supported, had declared that as soon as I could leave the island he would join his forces to those of Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo at Matavai or Oparre. This called upon me to declare in the most jmblic manner that I was deter- mined to espouse the interest of my friend against any such combination, and that whoever presumed to attack him should feel the weight of my heavy displeasure when I returned again to their island. My declaration probably had the desired effect, and if Towha had any such hostile intention at first, we soon heard no more of the repoit. Whappai, Otoo's father, highly dis- approved of the peace, and blamed Towha very much for concluding it. This sensible old man wisely judged that my going down with them to Eimco must have been of singular service to their cause, though I should take no other part whatever in the quarrel. And it was upon this that he built his arguments, and main- tained that Otoo bad acted properly by waiting for me, though this had prevented his giving assistance to Towha so soon as he expected. Our debates at Oparre on this sub- ject were hardly ended before a mes- senger arrived from Towha, desiring Otoo's attendance the next day at the " mom " in Attahooroo^ to give COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. III. Ch. IV. thanks to the gods for the peace hs had concluded ; at least such was Omai's account to me of the object of this solemnity. I was asked to go, but being much out of order was ob- liged to decline. Desirous, however, of knowing what ceremonies miglit be observed on so memorable an occasion, I sent Mr King and Omai, and returned on board my ship, attended by Otno's mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first I thought that this numerous train of uimales came into my boat with no other view than to get a passage to MatavaL But when tvti arrived at the ship they told me ti>sy intended passing the night on board for the express pur]iose of undertaking the cure of the disorder I complained of, which was a pain of the rheumatic kind extending from the hip to the foot. I accepted the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them upon the cabin floor, and sub- mitted myself to their directions. I was desired to lay myself down amongst them. Then as many of them as could get round me began to squeeze me with both hands from head to foot, but more particularly on the part» where the pain was lodged, till thev made my bones crack and my flesn became a perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. How- ever, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another rubbing-down before I went to bed ; and it was so effectual that I found myself pretty easy all the night after. My female physicians repeated their prescription the next morning before they went ashore, and again in the evening when they re- turned on board, after which I found the pains entirely removed ; and the cure being perfected, they took their leave of me the following morning. This they call "romee," an operation which in my opinion far exceeds the flesh-brush, or anything of the kind that we make use of externally. It is universally practised amongst these islanders, being sometimes performed by the nteu, but more generally by Sepi'. 1777.] PRESENT TO OMAI OP A WAR CANOE. 181 tbe women. If at any time one ap- pears languid and tired, and sits down by any one of them, they im- modiately begin to practise the " romee ' upon his legs ; and I have always found it to havo an exceeding good effect. . . . [On the 27th] I accompanied Otoo to Oparre ; and before I left it I looked at the cattle and poultry which I had consigned to my friend's care at that place. Everything was in a promising way, and properly attended to. Two of the geese and two of the ducks were sitting ; but the pea and turkey hens had not begun to lay. I got from Otoo four goats, two of which I intended to leave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced ; and the other two J proposed to reserve for the use of any other islands I might meet with in my passage to the north. . Our friend Omai got one good thing .'at this island for the many good things he gave away. This was a very fine ^-double sailing canoe, completely '^equipped, and fit for the sea. Some -time before I had made up for him 'a suit of English colours ; but he thought these too valuable to be used at this time, and patched up a parcel .~of colours, such as flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which he spread on different parts of . this vessel all at the same time, and i'drew together as many people to look "^ at her as a man-of-war would, dressed, Tin a European port. These streamers ' of Omai were a mixture of English, "French, Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European colours that he had seen. When I was last at this island, I gave to Otoo an English jack .'and pendant, and to Towha a pen- dant ; which I now found they had E reserved with thfe greatest care, imai had also provided himself with a good stoc!: of cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which "are not only in greater plenty, but much bettet, at Otahcito than at any of the Society Islands, insomuch that they are articles of trade. Omai would not have behaved so inconsistently, and so much unlike himself as he did in many instances, but for his sister and brother-in-law, who, together with a few more of their acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other view than to strip him of everything he had :ot. Ahd they would undoubtedly ave succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put a stop to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his property into my possession. But even this would not have saved Omai from ruin, if I had stiffered these rela* tions of his to have gone with or to have followed us to his intended plaM of settlement, Huaheine. This ther had intended, but I disappointed their further views of plunder by forbid- ding them to show themselves in that island while I remained in the neigh* bourhood ; and they knew me too weiU not to comply. On the 28th Otoo came on board* and informed me that he had got^a canoe, which he desired I would take with me, and cany home as a present from him to the " Earee rahie no Pre- tane ;" it being the only thing, ha said, that he could send worth his Majesty's acceptance. I was not a little pleased with Otoo for this mark of his gratitude. It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having pven Jhim the least hint about it ; and it showed that he fully understood td whom he was indebted for tL? most valuable presents that he had received. At first I thought that this canoe had been a model of one of t!.eir vessels of war ; but I soon found that it was a small "ivahah," about sixteen feet long. It was double, and seemed to have been built for the purpose ; and was decorated with all tuose pieces of carved work which they usually fix upon their canoes. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could only thank him for his good inten< tion ; but it would have pleased him much better if his present could have been accepted. We were detained hero some dayi longer than I expected, by light breezes from the west, and calms, by turns ; so that we could not get out of the bay. During this time the Bhii>8 were crowded with our fViends, " Earee him by and the 182 and surrotmded by a multitude of canoes ; for not one would leave the place till we were gone. At length, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon of the 29th the wind came at east, and we weighed anchor. As soon as the ships were under sail, at the request of Otoo, and to gratify the curiosity of his people, I fired seven guns loaded with shot ; after wliich all our friends, except him and two or three more, left us with such marks of affection and grief as sufficiently showed how much they regretted our departure. Otoo being desirous of seeing the ship sail, I made a stretch out to sea and then in again ; when he also bid us farewell and went ashore in his canoe. The frequent visits we have lately paid to this island seem to have created a full persuasion that the intercourse will not be discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by Otoo to request, in his name, the rahie no Pretane" to send the next ships red feathers birds that produce them, axes, half-a- dozen muskets, with powder and shot; and by no means to forget horses. I have occasionally mentioned my receiving considerable presents from Otoo and the rest of the family, with- out specifying what returns I made. It is customary for these people, when they make a present, to let us know what they expect in return ; iwid we find it necessary to gratify them ; so that what we get by way of »>re8ent comes dearer than what we get by barter. But as we were Efo/aetimes pressed by occasional scai» ty, w« could have recourse to our f> jnds for a present or supply whe. *e could not get our wants relieved by any other method ; and therefore, upon the whole, this way of traffic yras full as advantageous to us as to ^he natives. For the most part, I paid for each separate article as I received it, except in my intercourse with Otoo. His presents generally came so fast upon me, that no account was kept between us. "Whatever he asked for tliat I could spare, he had whenever he asked for it ; and I always found him moder- ate in his demands. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. III. Ch. IV. If I could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himself at Otaheite, I should not have left it so soon as I did. For there was not a probability of our being better or cheaper sup- plied with refreshments at any other place tlian we continued to be here even at the time of our leaving it. Besides, such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted between us and the inhabitants as could hardly be expected any where else ; and it was a little ex^raprdinaij' that this friendly intercourse had never once been sus- pended by any untoward accident, nor had there been a theft committed that deserves to be mentioned. Not that I believe their morals in this respect to bo much mended, but am rather of opipion that their regularity of conduct yfas owing to the fear the chiefs were under of inten'upting a traffic which they might consider as the means of securing to themselves a more considerable share of our com- modities than could have been got by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, this point I settled at the first interview with their chiefs after my arrival. For observing the great plenty that was in the island, and the eagerness of the natives to possess our various articles of trade, I resolved to make the nao^t of these two favourable cir- cumstances, and explained myself in the most decisive terms that I would not suffer them to rob us as they had done upon many former occasions. In this Omai was of great use, as I instructed hiip to point out to them the good consequences of their honest conduct, and the fatal mischiefs they must expect to suffer by deviating from it. It is npt always in the power pf the clijefs to prevent robberies ; ■|;heyare frecjiiently robbed themselves, andcomplamofitasagreatevil. Otoo left the most valuable things he had from m.e iif my possession till the day before w^ sailed ; and the reason he gave for it was that they were no- where so safe. Since the bringing-in of new riches, the inducements to pilfering must have increased. The chiefs, sensible of this, are now ex- tremely desirous of chests. They Sept. 1777.] ACCOUNT OP THE SPANISH EXPEDITION. ita would have done the inland a great seemed to set much value upon a few the Spaniards had left amongst them ; and they were continually asking us for some. I had one made for Otoo, the dimensions of which, according to his own directions, were eight feet in length, five in hreadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts were not a sufficient security ; but it must be large enough for two people to sLep «j)on, by way of guarding it in the night. It will appear a little extraordinaiy that we, who had a smattering of their language, and Omai besides for an interpreter, could ne— ^r get any clear account of the time v hen the Span- iards arrived, how long they stayed, and when they departed. The more we inquired into this matter, the more we were convinced of the inability of most of these peopl'^ to remember or note the time when past events happened; especially if it exceeded ten or twenty months. It, howover, appeared by the date of the inscrip- tion upon the cross, and by the in- formation we received from the most intelligent of the natives, that two ships arrived at Oheitepeha in 1774, soon after I left Matavai, which was in May the same year. They brought with them the house and live stock before mentioned. Some said that after landing these things, and some men, they sailed in quest of me and returned in about ten days. But I have some doubt of the truth of this, as they were never seen either at Huaheme or at Ulietea. The live stock they left here consisted of one bull, some goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of some other animal ; which we afterward found to be a ram, and at this time was at Bolabola, whither the bull was also to have been trans- forted. The hogs are of a large ind, have already greatly improved the breed originally found by us upon the island, and at the time of our late arrival were very numerous. Goats are also in tolerable plenty, there being hardly a chief of any note that has not some. As to the do^s that the Spaniards put ashore, which are of two or three sorts, I think they deal more service if they had hanged them all, instead of leaving them upon it. It was to one of them that my young ram fell a victim. When these ships left th<) islandii four Spaniards remained behind. Two were priests, one a servant, and the fourth made himself veiy popular among the natives, who distinguish him by the name of Mateema. He seems to have been a person who had studied their language, or at least to have spoken it so as to be understood ; and to have taken uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, and to makp them think meanly of the English, Ho even went so far as to assure them that we no longer existed as an independent nation ; that "Pretane" was only a small island which they (the Spaniards) had entirely destroyed ; and for me, that they had met with me at sea, and with a few shot had sent my ship and every 90UI in her to the boU torn, so that my visiting Otaheite at this time was of course very unex- pected. All this and many other improbable falsehoods did this Span* iard make these people believe. li Spain had no other views in this ex- pedition but to depreciate the English they had better have kep^t their ships at home ; for my returning again to Qtaheite was considered as a complete confutation of all that Mateema had said. With what design the priests stayed, we can only guess. If it was to con- vert the natives to the Catholic faith, they have not succeeded in any ona instance. But it does not appear that they ever attempted it; for, if the natives are to be believed, they never conversed with them either on this or on any other subjest. The priests resided constantly in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema roved about, visiting most parts of the island. At length, after he and his companions had stayed ten months, two ships came to Oheitepeha, took them on board, and sailed again in N 19) COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. IIT. Cfl. V five days. This hasty departure shows that whatever design tne Spaniards might have had upon tliis island, they had now laid it aside. And yet, as I was informed by Otoo and many others, before they went away they would have the natives believe that they still meant to return, and to bring with them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and women who were to settle, live, and die on the island. Otoo, when he told me this, added that if the Spaniards should return he would not lot them come to Matavai Fort, which, he said, was ours. It was easy to see that the idea pleased him, little thinking that the completion of it would at once . deprive him of his kingdom and the people of their liberties. This shows with what facility a settlement might be made at Otaheite ; which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope ■will never happen. Our occasional visits may in some respects have benefited its inhabitants; but a per- manent establishment amongst them conducted as most European estab- lishments amongst Indian nations have unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them just cause to lament that our ships had eyer found them out Indeed, it is very unlikely that any measure of this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither serve the purposes of public ambition nor of private avarice ; and without such inducements i may pro- nounce that it will never he under- taken. I have already mentioned the visit •"-~at I had from one of the two natives of this island who had been carried by the Spaniards to Lima. I never saw him afterward; which I rather wondered at, as I had received him with uncommon civility. I believe, however, that'Omai had kept him at a distance from me by some rough usage, jealous that there should be another traveller upon the island who might vie with himself. Our touch- ing at Teneriffe was a fortunate cir- cumstance for Omai, as he prided himself in having visited a place be- longing to Spain as Avell as this man. I did not meet with the other who had returned from Lima ; but Captain Gierke, who had seen him, spoke of him as a low fellow, and as a little out of his senses. His own country- men, I found, agreed in the same account of him. In short, these two adventurers seemed to be held in no esteem. They had not, indeed, been so fortunate as to return home with such valuable acquisitions of pro- perty as we had bestowed upon Omai, and with the advantages ne reaped from his voyage to England, it must be his own fault if he should sink into the some state of iusignilicunoe. CHAPTER V. As I did Dot give up my design of touching at Eimeo, at daybreak in the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, I stood for the north end of the island ; the harbour which I wished to examine being at that part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, had taken some necessary measures to show us the place. However, we were not without pilots, having seve- ral men of Otaheite on board, and not a few women. Not caring to trust entirely to these guides, I sent two boats to examine the harbour; and on their making the signal for safe anchorage, we stood in with the ships, and anchored close up to the head of the inlet, m ten fathoms water. We had no sooner anchored than the ships were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board ; for they had nothing with them for the purposes of barter. But the next morning this deficiency was supplied ; several canoes then arriving from more distant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, nails, and beads ; for red feathers were not so much sought after here as at Otaheite. The snip being a good deal postered with rats^ I hauled her withm thirty yards ol Oct. 1777.] the shore, as near as the depth of water would allow, and made a path for them to get to the land, by fas- tening hawsers to the trees. It is said that this experiment has some- times succeeded, but I believe we got clear of very few, if any, of the numer- ous tribe that haunted us. In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the chief of the island, paid me a visit. He approached the ship with great caution, and it required some Itersuasion to get him on board, i'robably he was under some appre- hensions of mischief from us as friends of the Otaheiteans ; these people not being able to comprehend how we can be friends with any one without adopting at the same time his cause against his enemies. Maheine was accompanied by his wife, who, aa I was informed, is sister to Oamo of Otaheite, of whose death we had an account while we were at this island. I made presents to both of them, of such things as they seemed to set the highest value upon ; and after a stay of about half-an-hour they went away. Not long after, they returned with a large hog, which they meant as a re- turn for my present, but I made them another present to the full value of it. After this they paid a visit to Captain Clerke. This chief, who, with a few fol- lowers, has made himself in a manner independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather an un- common appearance in these islands at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to show his head ; but whether they them- selves considered this deficiency of liair as a mark of disgrace, or whether they entertained a notion of our con- siilering it as such, I cannot say. We judged that the latter supposition was the truth, from this circumstance, that they had seen us shave the head of one of their peo])le whom we had caught stealing. They therefore con- cluded that this was the punishment nsually inflicted by us upon all tliioves ; and one or two of our gentle- men, whose heads were not overbur- VISIT FROM MAHEINK 195 thened with hair, we could observe, lay under violent suspicions of beiucr *' tetos. " In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horseback, and took a ride along the shore to the eastward. Our train was not very numerous, as Omai had forbid the natives to fol- low us, and many complied, the fear of giving offence getting the better of their curiosity. Tow ha had stationed his lleet in this harbour, and though tlie war lasted but a few days, the marks of its devastation were every- where to be seen. The trees were stripped of their fruit, and all the houses in the neighbourhood had been pulled down or burned. [On the morning of the Cth they had intended putting off to sea, when they were prevented by first one and then another of their goats being stolen. One of them was recovered without much difficulty, the other was only restored to them after a threatenvig message had been sent to the chiei" Maheine, a.d a number of their canoes had been burned. ] About 9 o'clock [on the 11th] we weighed with a breeze down the har- bour, but it proved so faint and variable that it was noon before we got out to sea, when 1 steered for Huaheine, attended by Omai in his canoe. He did not depend entirely upon his own judgment, but had got on board a pilot. I observed that they shaped as direct a course for the island as I could do. At Eimeo we abundantly supplied the ships with firewood. We had not taken in any at Otaheite, where the procuring this article would have been very incon- venient, there not being a tree at Matavai but what is -seful to the in- habitants. We also got here good store of refreshments, both in hogs and vegetables, that is, bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, little else being in season. I do not know that th .re is any dif- ference between the produce of this island and of Otaheite ; but there » a very striking difference in their women, that I can by no means account for. Those of Eimeo are of low stature, have a dark hue, and, in general, forbidding features. If w« 19f COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III.B.III.Ch.VI. met with a fine woman amongst them, we were sure, upon inquiry, to find that she had come from some other island. CHAPTER VI. Having left Eimeo, with a gentle breeze and lino weather, at dayl)realc the next morning we saw Huaheine extending from SW. by W. half W. to W. by N. At noon we anchor- ed at the north entrance of Owharre harbour, which is on the west side of the island. The whole afternoon was spent in warping the ships into a pro- per berth and mooring. Omai entered the harbour just before us in his canoe, but did not land. Nor did he take much notice of any of his country* men, though many crowded to see him ; but far more of them came off to the ships, insomuch that we could hardly work on account of their numbers. Our passengers presently acquainted them with what we had done Tr King, who went in the boat, told me that he wept all the time in going ashore. It was no small satisfaction to re- flect that we had brought him safe back to the very spot from which he was taken. And yet such is the strange nature of human affairs, that it is probable we left him in a less desirable situation than he was in before his connection with us. I do not by this mean that, because he has tasted the sweets of civilised life, he must become more miserable from being obliged to abandon all thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself to this single disagreeable circum- stance, that the advantages he receiv- ed from us have placed him in a more hazardous situation with respect to his personal safety. Omai, from be- ing much caressed in England, lost sight of his original condition, and never considered in what manner his acquisitions either of knowledge or of riches would be estimated by his countrymen at hia return ; which were the only things he could have rVoY.III.B.TII.Cii.VI. to recommend him to them now mor« than before, and on which he could build either his future greatness or happiness. He seemed even to have mistaken their genius in this respect, and, in some measure to have for- gotten their customs ; otherwise he must have known the extreme diffi- culty there would be in getting him- self admitted as a person of rank, where there is perhaps no instance of a man's being raised from an infer- ior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the very foundation of all distinction here, and of its attendant, power ; and so pertinaci- ously or rather blindly adhered to, that unless a person has some degree of it, he will certainly be despised and hated if he assumes the appear- ance of exercising any authority. This was really the case in some measure with Omai ; though his countrymen were pretty cautious of expressing their sentiments while we remained among them. Had he made a propel use of the presents he brought with him from England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by travel- ling so far, might have enabled him to form the most useful connections. But we have given too many instances, in the course of our narrative, of hia childish inattention to this obvious means of advancing his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a higher though ridiculous nature ; indeed I might say meaner ; for revenge, rather than a desire of becoming great, ap- peared to actuate him from the begin- ning. This, however, may be excused if we consider that it is common to his countrymen. His father was doubtless a man of considerable pro- perty in Ulietea when that island was conquered by those of Bolabola ; and, with many others, sought refuge in Huaheine, wliere he died and left Omai with some other children, who by that means became totally depend- ent. In this situation he was taken up by Captain Furneaux and carried to England. Whether he really ex- pected, from his treatment there, that any assistance would be given him against the enemies of his father and REMARKS ON THE CONDUCT OP OMAI. Not. 1777.] his country, or whether he imagined that hia own personal courage and superiority of knowledge would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of Ulietea, is uncertain ; but from the banning of the voyage this was his constant theme. He would not listen to our remonstrances on so wild a determination ; but flew into a passion if more moderate and reasonable coun- sels were proposed for his advantage. Nay, so infatuated and attached to his favourite scheme was he, that he affected to believe these people vv-ould certainly quit the conquered island as soon as they should hear of his arrival at Otaheite. As we advanced, however, on our voyage, he became more sensible of his error ; and by the time we reached the Friendly Islands had even such apprehensions of his reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my journal, he would fain have stayed behind at Ton- gataboo under Feenou's protection. At these islands he squandered away much of his European treasure very unnecessarily ; and he was equally im- prudent, as I also took notice of above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making friends, as he had not any intention of remaining there. At Matavai he continued the same incon- siderate behaviour till I absolutely put a stop to his profusion ; and he formed such improper connections there, that Otoo, who was at first much disposed to countenance him, afterward openly expressed his dislike of him on account of his conduct. It was not, however, too late to re- cover his favour ; and he might have settled to great advantage in Otaheite, as h«> ''•'.d formerly lived several years ther.^, ...id was now a good deal noticed by Towha, whose valuable present of a very large double canoe we have seen above. The objection to admit- ting him to some rank would have also been much lessened if he had fixed at Otaheite ; as a native will always find it more difficult to accom- Elish such a change of state amongst is countrymen, than a stranger, who naturally claims respect. But Omai remained uudetormined to the last, soi and would not, I believe, have adopted my plan of settlement in Huaheiue, if I had not so explicitly refused to employ force in restoring him to his. fathers possessions. Whether the remains of his European wealth, which after all his improvident waste waa still considerable, will be more pru- dently administered by him, or whether the steps I took to insure him protec- tion in Huaheine shall have proved effectual, must be left to the decision of future navigators of this ocean; with whom it cannot but be a prin- cipal object of curiosity to trace the future fortunes of our traveller. At present I can only conjecture that his greatest danger will arise from the very impolitic declarations of his an- tipathy to the inhabitants of Bola- bola. For these people, from a principle of jealousy, will no doubt endeavour to render him obnoxious to those of Huaheine, as they are at peace with that island at present, aud may easily effect their designs, many of them living there. This is a cir- cumstance which, of all others, ho might the most easily have avoided. For they were not only free from any aversion to him, but the person men- tioned before, whom we found at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, priest, or god, absolutely offered to reinstate him in the property that was formerly his father's. But he refused this peremptorily ; and to the very last continued determined to take the first opportunity that offered of satisfying his revenge in battle. To this, I guess, he is not a little spurred by the coat of mail he brought from Eng- land ; clothed in which, and in posses- sion of some fire-arms, he fancies that he shall bo invincible. Whatever faults belonged to Omai'a character, they were more than over- balanced by his great good-nature and docile disposition. Diuing the whole time he was with me I very seldom had reason to be seriously dis- pleased with his general conduct . His grateful heart always retained the highest sense of the favours he had received in England ; nor will he 1 ever forgot those who honoured him 204 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. III. Ch. VII. with their protection and friendship daring his stay there. He had a tolerable share of understanding, but wanted application and perseverance to exert it ; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and in many instances imperfect. He was not a man of much observation. There were many useful arts, as well as elegant amusements, amongst the people of the Friendly Islands, which he might have conveyed to his own ; where they probably would have been readily adopted as being so much in their own way. But 1 never found that he used the least endeavour to make h imself master of any one. This kind of indifference is, indeed, the charac- teristic foible of his nation. Euro- peans have visited them at times for these ten years past, yet we could not discover the slightest trace of any attempt to profit by this intercourse ; nor have they hitherto copied after us in any one thing. We are not, there- fore, to expect that Omai will be able to introduce many of our arts and customs among them, or much im- 1>rove those to which tbey have been ong habituated. I am confident, however, that he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various fruits and vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. But the greatest benefit these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels will be in the animals that have been lefb upon them ; which probably they never would have got had he not come to England. When these multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any place in the known world for provisions. Omai's retiu'n, and the substantial proofs he brought back with him of our liberality, encouraged many to offer themselves as volunteers to attend me to "Pretane." I took evory oppor- tunitjr of expressing my determination to reject alt such applications. But notwithstanding this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, being afraid lest I might be prevailed upon to put others in a situation of rivalling him, tru- quently put me in mind that Lord Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen were to come to England. If there had been the most distant probability of any ship beine again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought the two youths of that country home with me, as both of them were very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the eldest, was an exceedingly well disposed young man, mth strong natural sense, and capabls of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully sensible of the in- feriority of his own country to these islands, and resided himself, though Serhaps with reluctance, to end his ays in ease and plenty in Huahcine. But the other was so strongly attached to us, that he was token out of tlie ship and carried arhore by foice. He was a witty, smart boy , and on that account much noticed on board. ^ CHAPTER ViL The boat that carried Omai ashore, never to join us again, having returned to the ship with the remainder of the 1 " Omai did not live long to enjoy his good fortune ; it does not appear that he had any reason to complain of the rapacity or covetousness of his neighbours. The numerous articles of European manufacture which were in his possession rendered his house a splendid museum of curiosities in the eyes of a South Sea ielander ; and it is possible that his pride felt gratified in oeing thus able to minister to their wonder and admiration. He con- ducted himself prudently, and gained the esteem of his neighbours by the affability with which he recounted his voyages and adventures. About two years and a lialf after Captain Cook'g departure, Omai died a natural death ; nor did the New Zealanders survive him long enough to furnish European navigatora with an ampler account of the influence which his experience and observations abroad may have exerted I on his countrymen." Wov. 1777.1 INSTRUCTIONS TO Iiawser, 'we hoisted her in and imme- diately stood over for Ulietea, where I intended to touch next. At 10 o'clock at night we brought to till four the next morning, when we made sail round the south end of the island for the harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with calms and light airs of wind from different directions by turns, so that at noon we were still a league from the entrance of the harbour. While we were thus detained, my old friend Oreo, chief of the island, with his son, and Pootoe, his son-in-law, came off to visit us. . '. . Though we had separated from Omai, we were still near enough to have intelligence of his proceeding ; and I had desired to hear from him. Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea he sent two of his people in a canoe, who brought me the satisfactory intelligence that he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, and that everything went well with him, except that his goat had died in kidding. He accompanied this intelligence with a request that I would send him another goat and two axes. Being happy to have this Additional opportunity of serving him, the messengers were sent hack to Hua- heine on the 18th with the axes, and two kids, male and female, which were spared for him Ojit of the Discov'ry, The next day I delivered to C .ain Gierke instructions how to proceed in case of being separated from me after leaving these islands ; and it may not be improper to give them a place here. *'£y Captain James Cook, Commander of His Majesty's Sloop the Mesolu- tion. "Whereas the passage from the Society Islands to the northern coast of America is of considerable length both in distance and in time, and as a part of it must be performed in the very depth of winter, when gales of wind and bad weather must be ex- pected, and may possibly occasion t^ separation, you are to take all imagin- able care to prevent this. But if, not- withstanding all our endeavours to keep company, you should be separated CAPTAIN CLERKE. 205 from me, you are first to look for me where you last saw me. Not seeing me in five days, you are to proceed (as directed by the instructions of their Lordships, a copy of which you have already received) for the coast of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the Latitude of 45°. " In that latitude, and at a con- venient distance from the land, you are to cruise for me ten daj's. Not seeing me in that time, you are to put into the first convenient port, in or to the north of that latitude, to recruit your wood and water, and to procure refreshmeqts. "During your stay in port, you are constantly to keep a good look- out for me. It will be necessary, therefore, to make choice of a station situated as near the sea-coast as is possible, the better to enable j'ou to see me when I shall appear in the offing. ^"If I do not join you before the 1st of next April, you are to put to sea, and proceed northward to the Latitude 66° ; in. which latitude, and at a convenient distance from the coast, never exceeding fifteen leagues, you are to cruise for me till the 10th of May. " Not seeing me in that time, you are to proceed northward, and endea- vour to find a passage into the Atlantic Ocean, through Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, as directed by the above-men- tioned instructions. " But if you should fail in findrng a passage through either of the said bays, or by any other way, as the season of the year may render it unsafe for you to remain in high latitudes, you are to repair to the harbour of St Peter and St Paul in Eamtschatka, in order to refresh your people and to pass the winter. " But nevertheless if you find that you cannot procure the necessary re- freshments at the said port, you are at liberty to go where you shall judge most proper; taking care, before ytiii depart, to leave with the governor aik account of your intended destination, to be delivered to me upon my arrival ; and in the spring of the ensuing year, 208 COOK'S VOYAGES. 1779, yon are to repair back to the above-mentioned port, endeavouring to be there by the 10th of May, or sooner. " If, on your arrival, you receive no orders from, or account of me, so as to justify your pursuing any other measures than what are pointed out in the before-mentioned instructions, your future proceedings are to be governed by them. " You are also to comply with such parts of said instructions as have not oeen executed, and are not contrary to these orders. And in case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these and the instructions of their Lordships into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next ofiBcer in coramivnd, who is hereby required to execute them in the best manner he can. " Given under my hand, on board the Resolution, at Ulietea, the 18th day of November 1777. "J. Cook. " To Captain Charles Clerke, Comvianu r of His Majesty'a Sloop the Discovery." While we lay moored to the shore, we heeled, and scrubbed both sides of the bottoms of the ships. At the same time, we fixed some tin plates under the binds ; fii-st taking off the old sheathing, and putting in a piece unfilled, over which the plates were nailed. These plates I had from the ingenious Mr Pelham, Secretary to the Commissioners for Victualling his Majesty's Navy, with a yiew of trying whether tin would answ.er the same end as copper on the bottoms of ships. On the 24jbh in the morning J was , informed that a midshipman and a seaman, both belonging ^o jthe Dis- covery, were missing. Soon after, we learned from the natives t^at they went away in a canoe tlj^e preceding evening, and were at this time at the other end of the island. As the mid- shipman was known to have exi)res.sed a desire to remain at these islands, it aeemed pretty oei-tain that he and his [Voy.ni.B.III.CH.VIl companion had gone off with this in< tention, and Captaiu Clerke set out in quest of them with two armed boats and a party of marines. His expedi- tion proved fruitless, for he returned in the evening without having got any certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives, Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the deserters, and with that view had amused him with false information the whole day, and directed him to search for them in places where they were not to be found. The captain judged right, for the next morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As tbese two were not the only persons in the ships who wished to end their days at tliese favourito islands, in order to put a stop to any further desertion it was necessary to get them back at all events, and that the natives might be convinced that I was in earnest, I resolved to go after them myself, having observed, from repeated instances, that they seldom offered to deceive me with false information. Accordingly I set out the next morning with two armed boats, being accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded, as he directed, without stopping anywhere till we came to the middle of the east side of Otaha. Thero we put ashore; and Oreo despatched a man before us with orders to seize the deserters and keep them till we should arrive with th« boats. But when we got to the place where we expected to find them, we were told that they had quitted this island and gone over to Bolabola the 4ay before. I did not think proper to follow them thither, but returned to the ships, fully determined, how- ever, to have recourse to a measure which I guessed would oblige tho natives to bring them back. Soon after daybreak the chief, his son, daughter, and son-in-law came on board the Resolution. The three last I resolved to detain till the two deserters should be brought back. With this view Captain Clerke in- vited them to go on board his sltip ; and, as soon as they arrived there, ^IL Nov. 1777.] CONFINEMENT OF confined thnm in his cabin. Tlie chief was with me when the news reached him. He immediately ac- quainted me with it, supposing that this step had been taken without my knowledge and con8eirind was scant, so that we had to ply up, and it was 9 o'clock before we got near enough to send away a boat to sound the entrance ; for I had thoughts of running the ships in and anchoring for a day or two. When the boat returned, the master, who was in her, reported that though at the entrance of the harbour the bottom was rocky, there was good ground witjhin, and the depth of water twenty- •even and twenty-five fathoms, and that there was room to turn the ships in, the channel being one-third of a mile broad. In consequence of this report we attempted to work the ships in ; but the tide as well as the wind being against us, after making two or three trips I found that it could not be done till the tide should turn in <)ur favour. Upon this I gave up the design of carrjrin^ the ships into the liarbour, and having ordered the boats to be got ready, I embarked in one of them, accompanied by Oreo and his companions, and was rowed in for the island. We landed where the natives di- rected as, and soon after I was intro- duced to Opoony, in the midst of a great concourse of people. Having no time to lose, as soon as the neces- ■ary formality of compliments was ever I asked the chief to give me the COOK'S VOYAGEa. [VoY.ni.D.IlI.CH.VIII. anchor, and produced the present I had prepared for him, consisting of a linen night-gown, a shirt, some gauze handkerchiefs, a looking-glass, some beads and other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these last there was a general outcry. I could only guess the cause by Opoony's absolutely re> fusing to receive my present till I should get the anchor. He ordered three men to go and deliver it to me, and, as I understood, I was to send by them what I thought proper in return. With these messengers we set out in our boats for an island lying at the north side of the entranca into the harbour, where the anchor had been deposited. I found it to be neither so large nor so perfect as I expected. It had originally weighed 700 pounds, according to the mark that was upon it ; but the ring, with part of the shank, and the two points, were now wanting. I waa no longer at a loss to guess the re '^on of Opoony's refusing my preser he doubtless thought that it so icb exceeded the value of the ancli in its present state that I should be dis- pleased when I saw it. Be this as it mav, I took the anchor as I found it. and sent him every article of the pre- sent that I at first intended. Having thus completed my negotiation, I re- turned on board, and having hoisted in the boats, made eail from the island to the north. While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives came, off in three or four canoes to see the ships, as they said. They brought with them a few cocoa-nuts and one pig, which was the only one we got at the island. I make no doubt, however, that if we had stayed till the next day we should have been plentifully supplied with provisions ; and I think the natives would feel themselves disap- pointed when they found that we were gone. But as we liad already a very good stock both of hogs and of fruit on board, and very little of anything left to purchase more, I could have no inducement to defer any longer the prosecution of our voyage. [An account is here omitted Dm. 1777.] REPUTATIOIff OF THE BOLABOLA MEN. of th« circamitances attending th* conquest of Ulietea and Otaha bv tho people of Bolabola — those two islands remaining under the sway of King Opoony, while Huaheine, which had also been conquered, thanks to the aid of the Otaheiteans, regained and retained their independence. The reader will recall Omai's rancour against the Bolabolans, through whose predominance in the contest he lost his patrimony in Ulietea.] Ever since the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha, the Bolaoola men hare been considered by thoir neighbours as invincible ; and such is the extent of their fame, that even at Otaheite, which is almost out of their reach, if they are not dreaded, they are at least respected for their valour. It is said that they never tiy in battle, and that they always beat an equal number of the other islanders. But, besides these advantages, their neighbours seem to ascribe a great deal to the superiority of their god, who, they believed, detained us at Ulietea by contrary winds, as being unwilling that we sbould visit an island under his specia protection. How high the Bolabola men ' re now in estimation at Otaheite ma/ be inferred from M. de Bougainville's anchor having been conveyed to them. To the same cause we must ascribe the intention of transporting to their island the Span- ish bull. And they had already got possession of a third European curi- osity, the male of another animal, brought to Otaheite by the Spaniards. We nad been much puzzled by the imperfect description oi the natives to guess what this could be ; but Captain lerke's deserters, when brought back from Bolabola, told me that the ani- mal had been there ^hown to them, and that it was a ran*, It seldom happens but that some good arises out of evil ; and if our two men had not deserted I should not have known this. In consequence of their inform- ation, at the same time that I landed to meet Opoony, I carried ashore a ewe which we had brought from the Cape of Good Hope ; and I hope that Vy this present I have laid the foond- 211 atioa for a breed of sheep at Bola* bola. I also left at Uliotea, under the care of Oreo, an English boar n.wl sow and two goats ; so that not only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands will in a few years *iave their race of hogs considerably improved, and probably be stocked with all tho valuable animals which have been transported hither by their £uroi)eaa visitors. When once this comes to pass, no part of the world will equal these islands in variety and abundance of refreshments for navigators. Indeed, even in their present state I know no place that excels them. After re})eated trials in the course of several voyages, we find when they are not disturbed by intestine broils, but live in amity with one another, which has been the case for some years past, taat their productions are in the greatest plenty, and particularly the most valuable of all their articles, thoir hogs. If wo had had a larger assortment of goods and a sufficieat quantity of salt on board, I make no doubt that we might have salted as much pork as would have served both ships near twelvo months. But ourvisiting the Friendly Islands, and our long stay at Otaheitd and the neighbourhood, (^uite ex- ha\isted our trading commodities, par- ticularly our axes, with which alone hogs in general were to be purchased ; and we had hardly salt enough to cure fifteen puncheons of meat. Of these, five were added to our stock of provisions at the Friendly Islands, and the other ten at Otaheite. Cap- tain Clerke also salted a proportion- able quantity for his ship. Perhaps the frequent visits Euro- peans have lately made to these island- ersmaybeonegreatinducementto their keeping a large stock of hogs, as they havo had experience enough to know that whenever we come they may be sure of getting from us what they esteem a valuable consideration for them. At Otaheite they expect the return of the Spaniards every day; and they will look for the English two or three years hence not onl^ there, but at the other islands. It la 212 COOK'S VOYAGES. to no purpose to tell them that you yiill not retuni. They think you must, though not one of them knows or will give himself the trouble to inquire the reason of your coming. I own I cannot avoid expressing it as my real opinion, that it would have been far oisttei for these poor people never to have known our superiority in the accommodations and arts that make life comfortable, than after once knowing it to be a^ain left and abandoned to their original incapacity of improvement Indeed, they can- not be restored to that happy medi- ocrity in which they lived before we discovered them, if the intercourse between us should be discontinued, it seems to me that it has become in a manner incumbent on the Euro- peans to visit them once in three or four years, in order to supply them with those conveniences which we have introduced among them and have given them a predilection for. The want of such occasional supplies will probably be very heavily felt by them, when it may be too late to go back to their old, less perfect cou- trivances which they now despise and have discontinued since the introduc- tion of ours. For by the time that the iron tools of which they are now possessed are worn out, they will have almost lost the knowledge of their own. A stone hatchet is at present as rare a tiling amongst them as an iron one was eight j'ears ago, and a chisel of bone or stone is not to be seen. Spike-nails have supplied the place of the last ; and they are weak enough to fancy that they have got an inexhaustible store of them, for these were nit now at all sought after. Sometimes, however, nails much smaller than a spike would still be taken in exchange for fruit. Knives happened at present to be in great esteem at Uiietea, and axes and hatchets remained unrivalled by any other of our cc^r.modities at all the islands. With respect to articles of mere ornament, these people are as changeable as any of the polished nations ^f Europe ; so that what pleases their funcy while a fashion is [VoY.III.B.III.Cfl.IX. in vogue may be rejected when another whim has supplanted it. But our iron tools are so strikingly useful that they will, we may conndently pro- nounce, continue to prize them highly, and be completely miserable if, neither possessing the materials nor trained up to the art of fabricating them, tney should cease to receive supplies of what may now be considered as having become necessary to their comfortable existence.^ CHAPTER IX.« Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that atfords a more luxuriant prospect than the south-east part of Otaheite. The hills are high and steep, and in many places craggy ; but they are covered to the very sum- mits with trees and bhrubs, in such a manner that the spectator can scarcely help thinking that the very rocks possess the property of producing and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and the inter- jacent valleys, aLiO teem with various productions, that grow with tho most exuberant vigour, aiid at once fill the mind of the beholder with the idea that no place upon earth can outdo this in the strength and beauty of vegetation. Nature has been no less liberal in distributing rivulets, which are found in every valley, and, as they approach the sea, often divide into two or three branches, fertilising the flat lands through which they run. The habitations of the natives are scattered without order upon the flats, and many of them appearing ^ The rest of the Chapter, chiefly consisting of the record of astrono- mical and nautical observations, is omitted. * This Chapter, contributed by Mr Anderson's pen, has been consider- ably curtailed by omission of the more uninteresting technical, natu- ralistic, linguistic, and professional passages. our bat »ro- ler ed in Deo. 1777.] PRODUCTIONS toward the shore presented a delight- ful scene viewed from our ships, espe- cially &» the 8( ^ within the reef which bounds the coast, is perfectly still, and affords a safe navigation at all tiroes for the inhabitants, who are often seen paddling their canoes indo- lently along, in passing from place to {ilace, or in going to fish. On view- ng these charming scenes, I have often regretted my inability to trans- mit to those who have had no oppor- tunity of seeing them such a descrip- tion as might in some me^asure con- vey an impression similav to what must be felt by every one who has been fortunate enough to be upon thw spot. It is doubtless the natural fertility of the country, combined with the mildness and serenity of the climate, that renders the natives so careless in their cultivation that in many places, though overflowing with the richest productions, the smallest traces of it cannot be observed. The products of the island are not 10 remarkable for their variety as great abundance ; and curiosities of any kind are not numerous. Amongst these we may reckon a pond or lake of fresh water, at the top of one of the highest mountain], to go to and to return from which takes three or four days. It is remarkp.ble for its depth, and has eels of a.^ cuormuus size in it, which arp sometimes caught by the natives, who go U|>on this water in little floats of two or three wild plan- tain trees fastened togetlier. This is esteemed one of the i^eatest natural curiosities of the count'-y, insomuch that travellers who come from the other isknds are commonly asked, amongst the first things, by their friends at their return, if they have seen it. There is a^so a sort of water, of which Uiere is cnl^ one small pond npon the island, as far distant aa the laKe, and to appearance verv good, with a yellow sediment at the bottom ; but it has a bad taste, and proves fatal to those who drink any quantity, or makes them break out in blotches if they bathe in it Nothing could make a stronger im- pression at farst sight, on our arrival OF OTAHEITE. 213 here, than the remarkable contrast between the robust make and dark colour of the people of Tongataboo, and a sort of aelicacy and wniteness which distinguish the inhabitants of Otaheite. 1*; was even some time before that difference could prepon- derate in favoifl^ of Lb? Otaheiteans ; and then or'/, perhaps, because we became accustomed to them, the marks which had recommended the others began to be forgotten. Their women, however, struck us as supe- rior in every res])ect, and as possess- ing «>.l' those delicate characteristics which distinguish them from the other sex in many countries. The beard, wh: h the men here wear long, and the h'^ ir, which is not cut so short as is the fasliion at Tongataboo, made also a great difference ; and we could not help thinking that on every occasion they showed a greater de- gree of timidity and fickleness. The muscular appearance so common amongst the Friendly Islanders, and which seems a consequence of their being accustomed to much action, is lost here, where the superior fertility of their country enables the inhabit ants to lead a more indolent life ; and its place is supplied by a plumpness and smoothness of the skin, which, though perhaps more consonant with our ideas of beauty, is no real advan- tage, as it seems attended with a kind of languor in all their motions, not observable in the others. This ob- servation is fully verified in their box- ing and wrestling, which may be called little better than the feeble efforts of children, if compared to the vigour with which these exercises are per- formed at the Friendly Islands. Personal endowments being in great esteem amongst them, they have re- course to several methods of improv- ing them, according to their notions of beauty. In particular, it is a practice, especially amongst the "Erreoes," or unmarried men of some consequence, to undergo a kind of physical operation to render them fair. This is done by remaining a month or two in the house, during which time they wear a great quau- 214 tity of clotbes, and eat nothing but bread-fruit, to which they ascribe a remarkable property in whitening them. They also speak as if their eorpulence and colour at other times depended upon their food, us they are obliged, from the change of seasons, to use different sorts af different times. Their common diet is made up of at least nine-tenths of vegetable food ; and I believe more particidarly the "mahee," or fermented bread-fruit, which enters almost every meal, has a remarkable effect upon them, pre- venting a costive habit, and producing a very sensible coolness about them, which could not be perceived in us who fed on animal food. And it is perhaps owing to this temperate course of life that they have eo few diseases among them. They only reckon five or six, whish might be called chronic or national disorders ; amongst which are the dropsy, and the "fefai," or indolent swellings be- fore mentioned as frequent at Tonga- taboo. But this was before the arri- val of the Europeans; for we have added to this short catalogue a dis- ease which abundantly supplies the place of all the others, and is now almost universal. For this they seem to have no effectual remedy. Their behaviour on all occasions seems to indicate a great openness and generosity of disposition. Omai, indeed, who as their countryman should be supposed rather willing to conceal any of their defects, has often said that they are sometimes cruel in punishing their enemies. According to his representation, they torment them very deliberately, at one time tearing out small pieces of fiesh from different parts, at another taking out the eyes, then cutting of the nose, and lastly killing them by opening the belly. But this only happens on particular occasions. If cheerfulness argues a conscious innocence, one would suppose that their life is sel- dom sullied by crimes. This, how- ever, I rather impute to their feelings, which, though lively, seem in no case jiermanent ; for I never saw them in •ay misfortiine Ubour under the ftp- COOK'S VOYAGES. [Toy. III. B. III. Ch. IX. pearance of anxiety after the critical moment was past. Neither does care ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even the approach of death does not appear to alter their usual vivacity. I have seen them when brought to the brink of the grave by disease, and when preparing to go to battle, but in neither case ever observed their countenances over- clouded with melancholy, or serious reflection. Such a disposition leads them to direct all their aims only to what can give them pleasure and ease. Their amusements all tend to excite and continue their amorous passions ; and their songs, of which they are im- moderately fond, answer the samv purpose. But as a constant succes- sion of sensual enjoyments must cloy, we found that they frequently varied them to more refined subjects, and had much pleasure in chanting their triumphs m war and their occupa- tions in peace, their travels to other islands and adventures there, and th» peculiar beauties and superior advan tages of their own island over the rest, or of different parts of it over other less favourable districts. This marks that they receive great delight from music ; and though they rather ex- pressed a dislike to our complicated compositions, yet were they always delighted with the more melodious sounds proiuced singly on our instru- ments, i 3 approaching nearer to the simplic ty of their own. Neither are they strangers to th« soothing effects produced by particu- lar sorts of motion, which in some cases seem to allay any perturbation of IT .ad with as much success as music. Of this I met with a remark- able instance. For on walking one day about Matavai Point, where our tents were erected, I saw a man pad- dlin'^ in a small canoe so quickly, and looking about him with such eagerness on eacnside, as to command all my attention. At first I imagined that he had stolen something from one of the ships, and was pursued ; but, on waiting patiently, saw him repeat his amusement. He went out from the rhorb till he was near the place where Deo. 1777.] LANGUAGE OF THE OTAHEITEANS. 215 the swell begins to take its rise ; and, watching its first motion very atten- tively, jMiddled before it with great S[uickue8s, till he found that it over- ooked him, and had acquired suffi- cient force to carry his canoe before it without passing underneath. He then sat motionless, and was carried along at the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and went in search of an- other swell. I could not help con- cluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly, by the sea; especially as, though the tents and ships were so near, he did not seem in the least to envy or even to test any notice of the crowds of his cou ntry- men collected to view them as objects which were rare and curious. During my stay, two or three of the natives came up, who seemed to share his felicity, and always called out when there was an appearance of a favour? able swell, as he sometimes missed it by his back being turned, and looking about for it. By them I understood that this exercise, which is called "choroee," was frequent amongst them ; and they have probably more amusements of this sort which afford them at least as much pleasure as skating, which is the only one of ours with whose e£fects I could compare it. The lan^age of Otaheite abounds with beautiful and figurative expres- sions which, were it perfectly known, vould, I have no doubt, put it upon a level with many of the langnagee that are most in esteem for their warmth and bold images. For in- stance, the Otaheiteans express their notions of death very emphatically by saying "that the soul goes into dark- ness,' or rather " into night." And if you seem to entertain any doubt in asking the question, " If such a person is their mother ? " they imme- diately reply with surprise, '• Yes, the mother that bore me." They have one expression, that corresponds exactly with the pliraseology of thfe Scriptures, where we read of the " yearning of the bowcla." They use it on all occasions when the passions give them uneasiness ; as they con- stantly refer pain from grief, anxious desire, and other affections, to the bowels as its seat ; where they like* wise suppose all operations of the mind are performed. Their language admits of that inverted arrangement of words which so much distinguishes the Latin and Greek from most land, and the other islands in the neighbourhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of each no doubt think that they have chosen the most eminent, or at least one who is hivested with power suffi- cient to protect them and to supply all their wants. If lie should not answer their expectations, they think SYSTEM OF RELIGION. 217 it no impiety to change ; as very lately happened in Tiaralioo, where in the room of the two divinities formerly honoured there, Oraa,* god of Bola- bola, has been adopted, I should sup- pose because he is the protector of a people who have been victorioiis in war ; and as, since they have made this change, they have been very suc- cessful themselves against the inhabi- tants of ' * Otaheite-nooe, " they impute it entirely to "Oraa," who, as they literally say, fights their battles. Their assiduity in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not only the " whattas," or offering places of the ' ' morals, " are commonly loaded with fruit and animals ; but there are few houses where you do not meet with a small place of the same sort near them. Many of them are so rigidly scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal without first laying aside a morsel for the "Eatooa;" and we had an opportunity during this voyage of seeing their superstitious zeal car- ried to a most pernicious height, in the instance of human sacrifices, the occasions of offering which I doubt are too frequent. Perhaps they have recourse to them when misfortunes occur ; for they asked if one of our men who happened to be confined when we were detained by a contrary wind was "taboo."* Their prayei-s are also very frequent, whicn they chant much after the manner of the songs in their festive entertainments. And the women, as in other cases, are also obliged to show their inferiority in rsligious observances ; for it is re* quired of them that they should partly Uiicover theirselves as they pass the "morals," or ake a considerable cir* cuit to avoid them. Though they have no notion that their goMl must always be conferring benefits, without sometimes forgetting them, or suffer- * We have here an instance of tho samt) word being differently pro* nounced by the people. Captain Cook speaks of 011a as the Bolabola god. * That is, if he had been killed Sm a sacrifice. nt COOK'S yOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III. Ch. IX* ing evil to befall them, they seem to regard this less than the attempts of some more inaiispicious being to hart them. They tell us that "Etee" is an evil spirit, who sometimes does them mischief, and to whom, as well as to their god, they make offerings. But the mischiefs they apprehend from any superior invincible beings are confined to things merely tem- poral. They believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. They say that it keeps fluttering about the lips during the pangs of death ; and that then it ascends and mixes with, or as they express it, is eaten by the deity. In this state it remains for some time, after which it departs to a certain place destined for the reception of the souls of men, where it exists in eternal night, or, as they sometimes say, in twilight or dawn. They have no idea of any permanent punishment after death for crimes that they have committ .d on earth ; for the souls of good and bad men are eaten indiscri- minately by God. But they certainly consider this coalition with the Deity as a kind of purification necessary to be undergone before they enter a state of bliss. For, according to their doc- trine, if a maA refrain from all con- i;ection with women some months before death, he passes immediately into his eternal mansion without such a previous union, as if already, by this abstinence, he were pure enough to be exempted from the general lot. They are, however, far from enter- taining those sublime conceptions of happiness which our religion and, indeed, reason give us room to expect hereafter. The only great privilege they seem to think they shall acquire by death is immortality ; for they speak of spirits being in some measure not totally divested of those passions which actuated them when combined with material vehicles. Thus if souls who were formerly enemies should meet, they have many conflicts, though, it should seem, to no pur- pose, as they are accounted invulner- able in this invisible stato. There is a similar reasoning with regard to the meeting of man and wife. If the husband dies first the soul of his wifd is kvown to him on its arrival in the Ian X of spirits. They resume their former acquaintance in a spacious house called "tourooa," where the souls of the deceased assemble to re- creatiB themselves with the ^ods. She then retires with him to his separate habitation, where they remain for ever, and have an offsjjring, which, however, is entirely spiritual, as they are neither married, nor are their em- braces supposed to be the same as with corporeal beings. Some of tlieir notions about the Deity are extravagantly absurd. They believe that he is subject to the power of those very spirits to whom he has given existence ; and that, in their turn, they frequently eat or devour him, though he possess the power of re-creating himself. They, doubtless, use this mode of expre8&.v..i, as they seem incapable of conversing about immaterial things without constantly referring to material objects to convey their meaning. And in this mannct they continue the account, by saying that in the "tourooa" the deity in- quires if they intend or not to destroy him ; and that he is not able to alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitants on earth, as well ad to the spirits ; for when the moon is in its wane it is said that they are then devouring their "Eatooa ; and that, as it increases, he is renewing himself. And to this accident not only the inferior but the most eminent gods are liable. They also believe that there are other places for the re- ception of souls at death. Thus those who are drovmed in the sea remain there, where they think that there is a fine country, houses, and everything that can make them happy. But what is more singular, they maintain that not only all other animals, but trees, fruit, and even stones, have souls, whichatdeath, oruponbeingconsumed or broken, ascend to the divinity, with whom they first mix, and afterward pass into the mansion allotted to each. They imagine that their punctual performance of religious officos pro* ^E0. 1777.] TRADITIONS ABOITT THE CREATION. 21d and cures for them every temporal blessing. And as they believe that the animating and powei'ful influence of the diviae spirit is everywhere diti'used, it is no wonder that they join to this many superstitious opinions about its opera- tions. Accordingly, they believe that sudden deaths and all other accidents are aSected by the immediate action of some divinity. If a man onl^ stumble against a stone and hurt his toe, they impute it to an "Eatooa ;" 60 that they may be literally said, agreeably to their system, to tread enchanted ground. They are startled in the night on approaching a "too- papaoo," where the dead are exposed, in the same manner that many of our ignorant and superstitious people are with the apprehensions of ghosts and at the sight of a churchyard ; and they have an equal confidence in dreams, which they suppose to be communications either from their god or from the spirits of their departed friends, enabling those favonred with them to foretell future events ; but this kind of knowledge is confined to particular pople. Omai pretended to have this gift. He told us that the soul of his father had intimated to him in a dream, on the 26th of July 1776, that he should go on shore at some pkce within three days ; but he was unfortunate in this flrst attempt to persuade us that he was a prophet, for it was the 1st of August before we Eot into Teneriffe. Amongst them, owever, the dreamers possess a repu- tation little inferior to that of their inspired priests and priestesses, whose predictions they implicitly believe, and are determined by them in all under- takings of consequence. They also in some degree maintain our old doc- trine of planetary influence ; at least they are sometimes regulated in their public counsels by certain appearances of the moon ; particularly when lying horizontally, or much inclined on the convex part, on its first appearance after the change, they are encouraged to engage in war with confidence of success. They have traditions concerning the creation, which, as might be ex- pected, are complex and clouded with obscurity. They say that a goddess having a lump or mass of earth sus- pended in a cord gave it a swing, and scattered about pieces of land, thus constituting Otaheite and the neigh- bouring islands, which were all peopled by a man and woman originally fixed at Otaheite. This, however, only re- spects their own immediate creation, for they have notions of a universal one before this, and of lands of which they have now no other knowledge than what is mentioned in the tradi- tion. Their most remote account roaches to Tatooma and Tapuppa, male and female stones or rocks, who sup- pc i; the congeries of land and water, or our globe, underneath. These pro- duced Totorro, who was killed and divided into land ; and after him Otaia and Oroo were begotten, who were afterward married, and produced first land and then a race of gods. Otaia is killed, and Oroo marries a god, her son, called Teorraha, whom she orders to create more land, the animals, and all sorts of food upon the earth ; as also the sky, which is supported by men called Teeferoi. The spots ob- served in the moon are supposed to be groves of a sort of trees which once frew in Otaheite, and, being destroyed y some accident, their seeds were carried up thither by doves, where they now flourish. They have also many legends botk religious and historical, one of which latter, relative to the practice of eating human flesh, I shall give the sub- stance of as a specimen of their method. A long time since there lived in Otaheite two men called "Taheeai," the only name they yet have for cannibals. None knew whence they came, or in what manner they arrived at the island. Their habitation was in the mountains, whence they used to issue and kill many of the natives, whom they after- ward devoured, and by that ireani; mevented the progress of population. Two brothers, determined to rid their country of such a formidable enemy, used a stratagem for their destruction with qucoesB. These still livfld iarthor 220 upward than the "Taheeaj," and in such a situation that they conld speak with them without greatly hazarding their own safety. They invited them to accept of an entertainment that should be provided for them, to whicli these readily consented. The brothers then taking some stones, heated them in a fire, and thrusting them into pieces of " mahee," desired one of the " Taheeai " to open his mouth. On which one of these pieces was dropped in, and some water poured down, which made a boiling or hissing noise in quenching the stone, and killed him. They entreated the other to do the same, but he declined it, repre- senting the consequences of his com- panion's eating. However, they as- sured him that the food was excellent, and its effects only temporary, for that the other would soon recover. His credulity was such that he swal- lowed the bait, and shared the fate of the first. The natives then cut them in pieces, which they buried ; and conferred the government of the island on the brothers as a. reward for delivering them from such monsters. Their residence was in the district called Whapaeonoo, and to this day there remains a bread-fruit tree once the property of the " Taheeai. " They had also a woman who lived with them, and had two teeth of a prodigi- ous size. After they were killed^ she lived at the Island Otaha, and when dead was ranked amongst their deities. She did not eat human flesh as tho men, but, from the size of her teeth, the natives still call any animal that has a fierce appearance, or is repre- sented with large tusks, "Taheeai." From some circumstanca^, I have been led to think that the natives of these isles were formerly cannibals. Upon asking Omai he denied it stoutly, yet mentioned a fact within his own knowledge which almost confirms such an opinion. When the people of Bolabola one time defeated those of Huaheine, a great number of his kinsmen were slain. But one of his relations had afterwards an oppor- tunity of revenging himself, when the BolaDola men were worsted in their COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III.Ch. IX. turn ; and, cutting a piece out of th» thigh of one of his enemies, he broiled and ate it. I have also frequently consider^ the offering of the person a eye who is sacrificed, to the chief, as a vestige of a custom which once really existed to a greater extent, and is still commemorated by this emblematical ceremony. . . . Besides the cluster of high islands firom Mataia to Mourooa inclusive, the people of Otaheite are acauainted with a low uninhabited islano, which they name Mopeeha, and seems to ^ Howe's Island, laid down to the we& ward of Mourooa in our late charts of this ocean. To this the inhabitants of the most leeward islands sometimes go. There are also several low islands to the north-eastward of Otaheite, which they have sometimes visited, but not constantly, and are said to bs only at the distance of two days' sail with a fair wind. They were thus named to me: Mataeeva, Oanaa, Ta- boohoe, Awehee, Kaoora, Orootooa, Otavaoo (where are large pearls). The inhabitants of these isles come more frequently to Otaheite and the other neighbouring high islands, from whose natives they differ in being of a darker colour, with a fiercer aspect, and differently punctured. I was in« formed that at Mataeeva, and others of them, it is a custom for the men ^o give their daughters to strangers who arrive amongst them ; but tne pairs must be five nights lying near each other without presuming to proceed further. On the sixth evening the father of the voung woman treats his guest with food, and informs his daughter that she must that night receive him as her husband. The stranger, however, must not offer to express the least dislike, though the bed-fellow allotted to him should be ever so disagreeable ; for this is con- sidered as an unpardonable affront, and is punished with death. Forty men of liolabola who, incited bycun« osity, had roamed as far as Mataeeva in a canoe, were treated in this nian« ner, one of them having incautiously mentioned his dislike of the woman who fell to his lot in the hearing of a D«J.ir77.] PROGRESS AFTEB LEAVINO SOCIETY ISLANDS. 221 boy, who informed her father. In consequence of this, the Mataeevnns fell upon them ; but these warlike people killed three times their own number, though with the loss of all their party, except five. These hid themselves in the woods and took an opportunity, when the others were burying tueir dead, to enter some houses, where, having provided them- selves with victuals and water, they carried them on board a canoe, in which they made their escape ; and after passing Mataia, 'at which they would not touch, at lost arrived safe at Eimeo. The Bolabolans, however, were sensible enough that their tra- vellers had been to blame ; for a canoe from Mataeeva arriving some- time after at Bolabola, su far were they from retaliating upon them for the death of their countrymen that they acknowledged that they had de- served their fate, and treated their visitors kindly. These low isles are, doubtless, the farthest navigation which those of Otaheite and the Society Islands per- form at present. It seems to be a rundless supposition made by M. Boueainville that they made voy- ages of the prodigious extent^ he mentions, for 1 found that it is reck- oned a sort of prodigy that a canoe once driven by a storm from Otaheito should have fallen in with Mopeeha, or Howe's Island, though so near and directly to leewud. The knowledge they have of other distant islands is no dcubt traditional, and has been communicated to them by the natives of those islands driven accidentally upon their coasts, who, besides giving them the najnes, could easily inform them of the direction in which the places lie from whence they came, and of the number of days they had been upon the sea. In this manner it may be supposed that the natives of Wateeoo have increased their cata- logue by the addition of Otaheite and * In Bougainville's " Voyage autour du Monde we are told that these people sometimes navigate to the dis- tance of more than 300 leagues. its neighbouring isles from the people we met with there, and also of the other islands these bad heard o£ CHAPTER X. Atter leaving Bolabola I steered to the northward, close hauled, with the wind between NE. and E. Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure from England, during which we had not upon the whole been unprofitably employed, I was sensible that, with regard to the principal object of my instructions, our voyage was at this time only be- ginning, and therefore my attention to every circumstance that might contribute toward our safety and our ultimate success was now to be called forth anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our pro- visions at th6 last islands ; ana as soon as I had left then and got be- yond the extent of my former dis- coveries, I ordered a survey to be taken of all the boatswain's and car^ penter's stores that were in the ships, that I might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition of every article, and by that means know how to use them to the greatest advantage. Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no opportunity of in- quiring of the inhabitants if there were any islands in a north or north- west direction from them, but I did not find that they knew of any. Nor did we meet with an}'thing that in- dicated the vicinity of land till we came to about the Latitude of 8° S., where we began to see birds, such as boobies, tropic and man-of-war birds, tern, and some other sorts. At this time our longitude was 205° E. Men- dana, in his first voyage in 1568, discovered an island whi<:h he named Isla de Jesus in Latitude 6° 46' S., and 1450 leagues from Callao, which is 200° E. Longitude from Greenwich. We crossed this latitude near 100 leagues to the eastward of this Icngi- tude, and saw there many of the 222 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. HI. Ch. X. abov»*ment{oned birds, wbidi are sel- dom known to go very far from land. In the night between the 22d and 23d we crossed the Line, in the Longitude of 203° 15' E. On the 24th, about half-an-honr after daybreak, land was discovered, bearing N£. by K half E. Upon a nearer approacli it was found to be one of those low islands so common in thia ocean, that is, a narrow bank of land enclosing the sea within. A few cocoa-nut troea were seen in two or three places, but in general the land had a very barren appearance. At noon it extended from NE. by E. to S. by E. half E., about four miles distant. The wind was at ESE., so that we were under a necessity of making a few boards to get up to the lee or W. side, where we found from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand — the least depth about half-a-mile from the breakers, and the greatest about one mUe. The meeting with sound- iqgs determined me to anchor, with a view to try to get some turtle ; for the island seemed to be a likely place to meet with them, and to be without inhabitants. Accordingly we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms, and then a boat was despatched to examine whether it was practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea broke in a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat returned, the officer whom I had entrusted with this examination reported to me that he could see no place where a boat could liind, but that there was great abundance of fish in the shoal water without the breakers. In the morning of the 27th the pinnace and cutter, under the com- mand of Mr King, were sent to the south-east part of the island, within the lagoon, and the small cutter to the northward, where I had been the day before — both parties being ordered upon the same service, to catch turtle. Oaptain Gierke having had some of his people on shore all night, they had been so fortunate as to turn be- tween forty and fifty on the sand, which were brought on board with all expedition this day; and in the afternoon the party I had sent north* ward returnea with six. Thev were sent back again, and remained there till we left the island, having in general pretty good success. On the 28th I landed, in company with Mr Bayly, on the island which lies be- tween the two channels into the lagoon, to prepare the telescopes for observing tne approaching eclipse of the sun, which was one great induce- ment to my anchoring here. About noon Mr King returned with one boat and eight turtles, leaving seven be- hind to be brought by the other boat, whose people were employed in catch- ing more ; and in tne evening the same boat was sent with water and provisions for theia. Mr Williamson now went to superintend thia duty in the room of Mr King, who remained on board to attend the observation of the eclipse. The next day Mr Wil- liamson despatched the two boats back to the ship laden with turtle. At the same time he sent me a mes- sage desiring that the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had found a landing-place on the south-east side of the island, where most of the turtle were caught ; so that by sending the boats thither the trouble would be saved of carrying them over the land to the inside of the lagoon, as had been hitherto do.ie. The boats were accordingly despatched to the place which he pointed out. On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was to happen, Mr King, Mr Bayly, and myself went ashore on the small island above mentioned, to attend the observation. The sky was overcast till past 9 o'clock, when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough to take its altitude, to rectify the time bv the watch we made use of. After this it was again obscured till about thirty minutes past nine, and then we found that the eclipse was begun. We now fixed the micrometers to thetelescopes, and observed or measured the un- eclipsed part of the sun's disc. At these observations I continued about three-quarters of an hour before the en( nni ace inc sat bu i_ Jan. 1778.] AN end, when I left off, being in fact unable to continne them longer on account of the great heat of the sun, increased by the reflection from the sand. The aun was clouded at timef * but it was clear when the eclipse ended, the time of which was obserred as follows : Ho. Min. 26 26 25 M. Sea 8 1 87 By Mr Bayly, at Mr King, Myself, Apparent time p. Mr Bayly and I observed with the large achromatic telescopes, and Mr King with a reflector. As Mr Bayly's telescope and mine were of the same magnifying power, I ought not to have diff'ered so much ttom him as I did. Perhaps it was in part, if not wholly, owin^ to a protuberance in the moon which escaped my notice, but was seen by both tne other gentle- men. . . , Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board in a state of vegetation, I ordered them to be planted on the little island where we had observed the eclipse, and some melon-seeds were sown in another place. I tdso left on the little island a bottle con- taining this inscription : ECLIPSE OF THE SUN OBSERVED. j£j of blue, and the other with whitish streaks scattered about . . . As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery Christmas Island. I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference.^ It seemed to be of a semicircular form, or like the moon in the last quarter, the two horns being the north and south points. Christmas Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef of coral rocks, which extends but a little way from the shore. Farther out than this reef, on the west side, is a bank of sand extending a mile into the sea. On this bank is good an- chorage in any depth between eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the first-mentioned depth the reef would be too near; and in more than the last the edge of the bank would not be at a sufficient distance. During the time we lay here, the wind blew constantly a fresh gale at E. or E. by S., except one or two days. We had always a ^eat swell from the north- ward, which broke upon the reef, in a prodigious surf. We had found this swell before we came to tha island; and it continued for some days after we left it. " Oeorgius Tertiua Bex, 31 DeetTnhrit 1777. Besrlution, Joe. Cook, iV. Discovery, Car. CUrk«, Fr." Naves On the 1st of January 1778, I sent boats to bring on board all our parties from the land, and the turtle they had caught. Before this was com- pleted it was late in the afternoon, so that I did not think proper to sail till next mohiin^. We got at this island, to both ships, about 800 turtle, weighing one with another about 90 or 100 pounds. They were all of the green kind, and perhaps as good as any in the world. We also caught with hook and line as much fish a") we could consume during our stay. They consisted principally of cavallies of difierent sizes, large and small snappers, and a few of two sorts of rocK-fish, one with nunerous spots CHAPTER XI. On the 2d of January at daybreak w« weighed anchor and resumed our course to the N., having fine weather. We continued to see birds every day, of the sorts last mentioned, some- times in greater numbers than others, and between the latitude of 10° and 11° we saw several turtle. All these are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land. However, we dis- covered none till daybreak in tha morning of the 18th, when an island made its appearance bearing NE. by E., and soon after we saw more land bearing N. and entirely detached * It lies, according to Cook's ob- servations, in 1° 69' N . Latitude, awl 202° 30' E. Longitude. 2S4 ttom the former. Both had the «p« pearance of being high land. We had now light airs and calms by turns ; so that at sunset we were not less than nine or tea leagues from the nearest land. On the 19th at sunrise the island first seen bore E. several leagues dis- tant This being directly to wind- ward, which prevented our getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach; and not long after discovered a third island in the direc- tion of WNW., as far distant as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at E. by N. ; and I steered for the east end of the second island. At this time we were in some doubt whether or no the land before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon cleared up by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the ships. I immediately brought to, to f;ive them time to join us. They had rom three to six men each, and on their approach we were agreeably sur- Erised to find that they spoke the luguage of Otaheite and of the other islands we had lately visited. It re- quired but very little address to get them to come alongside ; but no en- treaties could prevail upon a-^v of them to come on board. I tied ..v " *> brass medals to a rope and gave theiix to those in one of the canoes, who in return tied some small mackerel to the rope as an equivalent. This was repeated, and some small nails or bits of iron, which they valued more than any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged more fish, and a sweet ^wtato ; a sure sign that, they had some notion of bartering, or at least of returning one present for another. "Diey had nothing else in their canoes except some large gourd shells, and a kind of fishing^net; but one of them offered for sale the piece of stuff that he wore round his waist after the manner of the other islands. These people were of a brown colour, •nd thougn of the common size, were stoutly made. There was little differ- ence in the cast of their colour, but a v>nsiderablovaiiatiouin their features; /4Mue of their visages not being very COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. Ill . Oh. XI. unlike those of Europeans. The hair of most of them was cropped pretty short ; others had it flowing loose ; and with a few it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. In all it seemed to be naturally Hack; but most of them had stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore their beards. They Ixad no or- naments about their persons, nor did we observe that their ears were per- forated ; but some were punctured on the hands, or near the groin, though in a small degree; and the bits of cloth which they wore were curiously stained with red, black, and white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any kind, if we except some small stones which they had evidently brought for their own defence ; and these they threw over- board when they found that they were not wanted. [Finding no proper anchoring-place at the eastern extreme of the island, they bore away to the middle of the KW. side, where they stood off in five fathoms, over a sandy bottom. The natives who afterwards came on board showed great ignorance of every..hing Euro- pean, and proved themselves to be ■'ueves.] Wiiu» '\ boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on and off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon Mr William- son came back and reported that he hal seen a large pond behind a beach ne'Ar v-i^.e of the villages, which the nacivc. told him contained fresh water, and that there was anchoring* gr.T.nd before it. He also reports, that he had attempted to laud in another place, but was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in gi-eat numbers, attempted to take away the oars, muskets, and in short everytliing that they could lay hold of, and pressed so thick upon him that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. But this unhappy circumstance I did not know till after we had left the island, so that all my measures were directed aa Jam. 1778.] If nothing of the kind had happened. Mr Williamson told me that after the man fell, his countrymen took him up, carried him off, anil then retired from the boat ; but still they made signals for our people to land, which he de- clined. It did not appear to Mr Williamson that the natives had any design to kill or even to hurt any of his party; but they seemed excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being at the same time ready to give in return anything of their own. After the boats were on board, I despatched one of thorn to lie in the best anchoring-ground ; and as soon as she had got to this station, I bore down with the ships, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms water. The Discovery anchored to the eastward of us, farther from the land. The ships bein^ thus stationed between 3 and 4 o'clo', .< , I went ashore with throe armed boats and twelve marines, to examine the water, and to try the dispo&ition of the inhabit- ants, several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before the village; behind it was a narrow valley, the bottom of which wa& 'U- I)ied by the piece of water. The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till by expressive signs I prevailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small pigs, which they pre- sented to me, with plantain-trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised on such occa- sions at the Society and other islands, and a long prayer being spoken by a single peiTson, in which others of the assemi)ly sometimes joined. I ex- pressed my acceptance of their prof- fered friendship, by giving them in return such presents as I had brought with me from the ship for that pur- pose. When this introductory busi- ness was finished, I stationed a guard upon the beach, and got some of the natives to conduct- me to the water; which proved to be very good, and in a proper situation for our purpose. It v/aa so considerable that it may be A WATERING-PLACE FOUND. 226 called a lake, and it extended farther up the country than we could see. Having satisfied myself about this very essential point, and about the riaceable disposition of the natives, returned on board, and then gave orders that everything should be in readiness for landing and filling our wuter-cosks in the morning; when T went ashore with the people emi)loyed in that service, having a party of marines with us for a guard, who were stationed on the beach. As soon us we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the people of the island gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron formed into something like chisels. We met with no obstruction in watering ; on the contrary, the natives assisted bur men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever we requir- ed. Everything thus going on to my satisfaction, and considering my pre- sence on the spot unnecessary, I left the command to Mr Williamson, who hod landed with me, and made an excursion into the country up the valley, accompanied by Mr Anderson and Mr Webber ; the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the pen as the latter was to represent with his pencil everything we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of natives followed us ; and one of them, whom I had distinguished for his activity in keep- ing the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide. This man from time to time proclaimed our approach ; and. every one whom we met fell prostrate upon the ground and remained in that position till we had passed. This, as I afterward understood, is the m'^de of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As wa ranged down the coast from the east in the ships, we had observed at every viiinge one or more elevated white objects, Tike pyra- mids or rather obelisks ; and one of these, which I guessed to be at least fifty feet high, was very conspicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and seemed to be at no great distance up this valley. To have a nearer inspeo P 226 tion of it was the principal object of my walk. Our ^aide perfectly under- stood that we wished to be conducted ■* o it ; but it happened to be so plc^jed that we could not get at it, being separated from us by the pool of water. However, there being another of the same kind within our reach, about half-a-mile off upon our side of the valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it we saw that it stood in a buiying-ground, or " morai, " the resemblance of which in many respects to those we were so well acquainted with at other islands in tliis ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not but strike us ; and wo also soon found that the several parts that compose it were called by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable exteijt, surrounded by a wall of stone about four feet high. Tiie space enclosed was loosely paved with smaller stones ; and at one end of it stood what I call the pyramid, but in tho language of the island is named "henananoo ; " which appear- ed evidently to be an exact model of the larier one observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were composed of small poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus forming an in- different wicker-work, hollow or open within from bottom to top. It seemed to be rather in a ruinous state ; but there were sufficient remaining marks to show that it had originally been covered with a thin, light, grey cloth, which these people, it should seem, consecrate to religious purposes ; as we could see a good deal of it hanging in different parts of the "morai, " and some of it had been forced upon me when I first landed. On each side of the pyramid were long pieces of wicker-work called "hereaneo," in the same ruinous condition ; with two slender poles, inclining to each other, at one comei, where some plantains were laid upon a board fixed at the height of five or six ieet. This they called "herairemy," and informed us that the fruit was an offering to their god, which makes it agree exactly COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III. Ch. XI. with the "whatta" of Ot<»hf,ite. Be* fore the " henananoo " were a few f>ieces of wood carved into something ike human figures, which, with a stone near two feet high, covered with piecesof cloth called "iioho," andcon- secrated to " Tongarooa," who is the god of these people, still more and more reminder us of what we used to meet with -n the " morals" of the islands we had lately left. Adjoin- ing to these, on the outside of the "morai," was a small shed no bigger than a dog-kennel, which they called "harcepahoo;" and before it was a grave, where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lay. On the farther side of the area of the " morai " ntood a house or shed about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which though much longer was lower than their common dwelling-places, we were informed was called "hemanaa." The entrance into it was at the middle of the side which was in the "morai." On the farther side of this house, opposite the entrance, stood two wood- en images, cut out of one piece, with pedestals, in all about three feet high; neither very indifferently designed nor executed. These were said to be "Eatooa no Veheina," or representa- tions of goddesses. On the head of one of them was a carved helmet not unlike those worn by the ancient warriors, and on that of the other a cylindrical cap, resembling the head- dress at Otaheite, called "tomou;" and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side of each was also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them in the same manner ; and be- tween or before the pedestals lay a quantity of fern in a heap. It was obvious that this had been deposited there piece by piece and at different times ; for there was of it in all states, from what was quite decayed to what was still fresh and green. In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong space enclosed by a low edging of stone, ;an. 1778.] BURIAL-PLACE OF THE HUMAN SACRIFICES. 227; and covered with shreds of the cloth so often mentioned. This on inquiry we found was the grave of seven chiefs, whose names were enumerated, and the place was called Heneene. We had met already with so m^ny strik- ing instances of resemblance between tLe burying-place we were now visiting and those of islands we had hitely come from in the South Pacific, that we had little doubt in our minds that the resemblance existed also in the ceremonies practised here, and partic- ularly in the horrid one of offering human sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confii-med by direct evidence. For on coming out of the house, just on one side of the entrance, we saw a small square place, and another still less near it ; and on asking what these were, our guide immediately informed us that in the one was buriedaman who had been sacrificed ; a "Taata ("Tan- nta" or f Tangata," in this country) taboo" ( "tafoo, " as here pronounced) ; and in the other a hog which had also been made an offering to the divinity. At a little dis<^ance from these, near the middle of the "morai," were three more of these square enclosed places, with two pieces of carved wood at each, und upon them a heap of fern. These we were told were the graves of three chiefs ; and before them was an oblong enclosed space to which our conductor also gave the name of "Tangata- taboo ; " telling us, so explicitly that we could not mistake his meaning, that three human sacrifices had been buried there, that is, one ai the funeral of each chief. It was wit 1, most sin- cere concern that I could trace on such undoubted evidence the prevalence of tliese bloody rites throughout this im- mense oceain, amongst people disjoined by such a distance, ana oven i;tjnorant of each other's existtne, though so strongly marked as originally of the same nation. It was uo small addi- ''. n to this concern to reflect that . ery appearance led ua to believe the barbarous practice was verj' general here. The island seemed to abound with such places of sacrifice as this which wewere now visiting, and which appeared to Iki one of the most incon- siderable of them ; being far less con- spicuous than several others which we had seen as we sailed along the coast, and particularly than that on the op- posite side of the water in this valley; the white *' henananao," or pyramid, of which, we were now almost sure; derived its colour only from pieces of the consecrated cloth laid over it. In several parts within the enclosure of thisburying-ground were planted trees of the Cordia sebestina, some of the Morinda citrifolia, and severalplants of the "etee," or "jejee," of Tonga- taboo, with the leaves of which the "hemanaa was thatched ;" and as I observed that this plant was not made use of in thatching their dwelling- houses, probably it is reserved entirely for religious purposes. Our road to and from the "moral " which I have described lay through the plantations. The greatest part o\. the ground was quite flat, with ditches full of water intersecting different '^arts, and roads that seemed artifi- cially raised to somo lieight. The interspaces were in general planted with "taro," which grows here with great strength, as the fields are sunk below the common level so as to con- tain the water necessary to nourish the roots. This water probably comes from the same source which supplies the large pool from which we fiUed our casks. On the drier spaces were several spots where the cloth-mulberry was j)!r.;ited in regular rows, also grow- ing vigorously, and kept very clean. The cocoa-trees were not in so thriving a state, and were all low ; but the plantain-trees made a better appear- ance, though they were not laige. In general, the trees round this village, and which were seen at many of those whicli we passed before we anchored, ar^j the Cordia sehestina, but of a mora diminutive size than the product of the southern isles. The greatest part of thevillage stands nearthebeach, and consists of above sixty houses there ; but perhaps about forty more stand scattered about farther up the country towirds the buryiug-place. . . . /t 7 o'clock on the 23d, a breezB of wind springing up at NE., I took 228 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. III. Cu. XI. up the anchors with a view of remov- ing the ship farther out. The moment that the last anchor was np, the wind veered to the E., which made it neces- sary to set all the sail we could in order to clear the shore ; so that before we had tolerable sea-room we were driven some distance to leeward. We made a stretch off with a view to regain the road I but having very little wind, and a strong current against us, I found that this was not to be effected. I therefore despatched Messrs King and Williamson ashore with three boats for water, and to trade for re- freshments. At the same time I sent an order to Captain Gierke to put to sea after me, if he should see that I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding one, or perhaps a harljour, at the west end of the island, I was the less anxious about getting back to my former station. But as I had sent the boats thither, we kept to windward as much as possible ; notwithstanding whichj at noon we were three leagues to leeward. As we drew near the west end of the island, we found the coast to round gradually to the north-east, without forming a creek or cove to shelter a vessel from the force of the swell which rolled in from the north, and broke upon the shore in a prodigious surf ; 60 that all hopes of finding a harbour here vanished. Several canoes came off in the morn- ing, and followed us as we stood out to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very averse to believe these people to be cannibals, notwith- standing the suspicious circumstance which had hapjwned the day before, we took occasion now to make some more inquiries about this. A small wooden instrument, beset with sharks' teeth, had been purchased ; and from its resemblance to the saw or knife used by the New Zcalandcrs to disect the bodies of their enemies, it was uuspected to have the same use here. One of the natives being asked about this, immediately gave the name of the instrument, and told us that it waa used to cut out the fleshy part of the belly when any pe'Tsou was kUled. This explained and confirmed the cir- cumstance above mentioned of the person pointing to his belly. The man, however, from whom we had this information, being asked if his countrymen eat the part thus cut out, denied it strongly ; but, upon the question being repeated, showed some degree of fear and swam to his canoe. Just before he reached it, he mode signs as he had done before, expres- sive of the use of the instrument. And an old man, who sat foremost in the canoe, being then asked whether they ate the flesh, answered in the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly at the simplicity of such a question. He affirmed the fact on being asked again ; and also said it was excellent food, or, as he expressed it, "savoury eating." At 7 o'clock in the evening the boats returned, with two tons of water, a few hogs, a quantity of plan- tains, and some roots. Mr King in- formed me that a great number of the inhabitants were at the watering or landing-place. He supposed that they had come from all parts of the island. They had brought with them a great many fine fat hogs to barter ; but my people had not commodities with them equal to the purchase. This, however, was no great loss, for we had already got as many on board as we could well manage for imme- diate use ; and wanting the materials we could not have salted them. Mr King also told me that a great deal of rain had fallen ashore, whereas out at sea we had only a few showers ; and that the surf had run so high that it was with great difficulty our men landed and got back into the boats. We had Tight airs and calms by turns, with showers of rain, all night ; and at daybreak in the morning of the 24th we found that the currents had carried the ship to the NW. and N. ; so that the west end of the island, upon which we had been, called Atooi by the natives, bore E. one league distant ; another island, called Oree- houa, W. by S. ; and the high land of a third island, called Onceheow, from SW. by W. to W3W. Soon after, a breeze sprang up at N. ; and as I Jf' Jan. 1778.1 THE NATIVES expected that this would bring the Discovery to sea, I steered for Onee- heow, in order to take a nearer view of it, and to anchor there if I should find a convenient place. I continued to steer for it till past 11 o'clock, at which time we were about two leagues from it. But not seeing the Discovery, and being doubtful whether they could see us, I was fearful lest some ill con- sequence might attend our separating 80 far. I therefore gave up the design of visiting Onceheow for the present, and stood back to Atooi, with an in- tent to anchor again in the road to complete our water. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon the northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by variable light airs and calms that continued till eleven at night, with which we stretched to the SE. till daybreak in the morning of tlie 25th, when we tacked and stood in for Atooi road, which bore about N. from us ; and Boon after we were joined by the Dis- covery. We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road, which, though so near, we never could recover ; for what we gained at one time we lost at another, so that by the morning of the 29th the cur- rents had carried us westward within three leagues of Oneeheow. Being tired with plying so unsuccessfully, I jrave up all thoughts of getting back iv- Atooi, and came to the resolution )'' trying whether v/e could not procure «.hat we wanted at the other island, ■' ai jh was within our reach. With iMb view I sent the master in a boat . K 6i.>und the coast, to look out for a *a«(i ,ng-place, and, if he should find c •. ,, to examine if fresh water could be ' jouveniently got in its neighbourhood. To give him time to execute his com- mission, we followed under an easy sail with the ships. At 10 o'clock the master returned, and reported that he had landed in one place but could find no fresh water ; and that there was anchorage all along the coast. Seeing a village a little farther ^o leeward, and some of the islanders who had come off to the ships inform- ing us that fresh water might be got there, 1 ran down and came to on OF ONEEHEOW. 229 anchor before it, in twenty-six fathoms water, about three-quarters of a mUe from the shore. Six or seven canoes had come off to us before we anchored, bringing seme small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The people in them resembled those of Atooi, and seemed to be equally well acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by the names of " hamaite " and "toe;" parting readily with all their commodities for pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes soon reached the ships after they had anchored, but the natives in these seemed to have no other object than to pay us a formal visit. Many of them came readily on board, crouch- ing down upon the deck, and not quitting that humble posture till they were desired to get up. They had brought several females with them, who remained alongside in the canoes, behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen of Atooi ; and at times all joining in a song not re- markable for its melody, though per- formed in very exact concert by beating time upon their breasts with their hands. The men who had come on board did not stay long ; and be- fore they departed some of them requested our permission to lay down on the deck locks of their hair. These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating again this day the curious inquiry whether they were cannibals, and the subject did not take its rise from any questions of ours, but from a circumstance that seemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the islanders who wanted to get in at the gun-room port was refused, and at the same time asked whether, if he should come in, wo would kill and cat him, accompanying this question with signs so expressive that there could be no doubt about his meaning. This gave a proper opening to retort the question as to this practice ; and a person behind the other in the canoe, who paid great attention to wliat was passing, immediately answered that if we were killed on shore they would certainly eat us. He spcks with so 280 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. Ill, B. III. Ch. XI. little emotion that it appeared plainly to be his meaning that they would not destroy us for that purpose, but that their eating us would be the con- sequence of our being at enmity with them. I have availed myself of Mr An- derson's collections for the decision of this matter, and I am sorry to say that I cannot see the least reason to hesit- ate in pronouncing it to be certain that the horrid banquet of human flesh is as much relished here amidst plenty as it is in New Zealand. In the afternoon I sent Lieutenant Gore with three arm'' I boats to look for the most convenie; ' f ^ 1 ?r 'r-pla^e, and when on shore to ^: )V fresh water. In the evening ; urned, having landed at the vili»o.' above mentioned, and acquainted me that he had been conducted to a well half- a-mile up the country ; but by his account, the quantity of water it con- tained was too inconsiderable for our purpose, and the road leading to it exceedingly bad. On the 30th I sent Mr Gore ashore again, with a guard of marines and a party, to t.ade with the natives for refreshments. I in- tended to have followed soon after, and went from the ship with that design. But the surf had increased 80 much by this time that I was fear- ful, if I got ashore, I should not be able to get olf again. This really happened to our people who had landed with Mr Gore, the communi- cation between them and the ships by our own boats being soon stopped. 1 n the evening they made a sigaal for the boats, which were sent accord- ingly ; and not long after they returned with a few yams and some salt. A tolerable quantity of both had been procured in the course of the day, but the surf was so great that the greatest {mrt of both these articles had been ost in conveying them to the boats. The oiFicer and twenty men, deterred by the danger of coming off, were left ashore all night ; and by this unfor- tunate circumstance the very thing hap- pened which, as I have aheady men- tioned, I wished 80 heartily to prevent, and vainly imagined I had enectually guarded against. The violence of tlie surf, which oui' own boats could not act against, did not hinder the natives from coming off to the ships in their canoes. They brought refreshments with them, which were purchased in exchange for nails and pieces of iron hoops ; and I distributed a good many Eieces of ribbon and some buttons as racelets amongst the women in the canoea. One of the men had the figure of a lizard punctured upon his breast, and upon those of others were the figures of men badly imitated. These visitors informed us that there was no chief, or " Hairee," of this island, but that it was subject to Teneooneoo, a chief of Atooi ; which island, they said, was not governed by a single chief, but that there were many to whom they paid the honour of ' ' moe, " or prostration ; and among others they named Otaeaio and Terarotoa. Amongst other things which these people now brought off was a small drum, almost like those of Otaheite. About 10 or 11 o'clock at night the wind veered to the soutli, and the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With such appearances, thinking that we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be taken up ; and having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came to again in that safer station. The precaution, however, proved to be unnecessary, for the wind soon afterveered to NNE. , from which quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with very lieavy showers of rain. This weather continued all the next day, and the sea ran so high that we had no man- ner of communication with our party on shore ; and even the natives them- selves durst not venture out to the ships in their canoes. In the evening I sent the master in a boat up to tta south-east head or point of the island to try if ho could land under it. He returned with a favourable report; but it was too late now to send for our party till the next morning, and thus they had another night to im- prove their intercourse with the natives. Fucouraged by the master's report, I eont a boat to the south-east point as soon as daylight returned I 1 Pkb. 1778.] ACCOUNT OF WHAT with an order to Mr Gore if he could not embark his people from the spot where they now were to march them up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, one of the crew swam ashore and carried the order. On the return of the boat, I went my- self with the pinnace and launch up to the point to bring the party on board, taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes, a boar and sow pig of the English breed, and the seeds of nielons, pumpkins, and onions, being very desirous of benefiting these poor people by furnishing them with some additional articles of food. I landed with the greatest ease under the west side of the point, and found my party already there, with some of the natives in company. To one of them wliom Mr Gore had observed assum- ing some command over the rest, I gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. I should have left these well-intended presents at Atooi had we not been so unexpectedly driven from it. The habitations of the natives were tliinly scattered about, and it was supposed that there could not be more than 600 people upon the island, as the greatest part were seen at the marketing-place of our party, and few found about the houses by those who walked up the countiy. They bad an opportunity of observing- the method of living amongst the natives, and it appeared to be decent and cleanly. They did not, however, see any instance of the men and women eating together ; and the latter seemed generally associated in companies by themselves. It was found that they burned here the oily nuts of the " dooe doce " for lights in the night, as at Otaheite ; and that they baked their hogs in ovens, but, contrary to the practice of the Society and Friendly Islands, split their carcases through their whole length. They met with a positive proof of the existence of the '• taboo " (or, as they pronounce it, the " tafoo "), for one woman fed another who was under that interdic- tion. They also observed some other mysterious ceremonies, one of which was performed by a woman, who took PASSED ON LANDING. 281 a small pig and threw it into the surf, till it was drowned, and then tied up a bundle of wood, which she also disposed of in the same manner. The same woman at another time beat with a stick upon a man's shoulders, who sat down for that purpose. A particular veneration seemed to be paid here to owls, wliich they have very tame ; and it was observed to be a pretty general practice amongst them to pull out one of their teeth, ^ for which odd custom, when asked the reason, the only answer that could be got was, that it was " teeha," which was also the reason assigned for another of their practices, the giving a lock of their hair. After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into the boat, and we had purchased from the natives a few roots, a little salt, and some salted fish, I returned on board with all the people, intending to visit the island the next day. But about 7 o'clock in the evening the anchor of the Resolution started, and she drove off the bauis:. As we had a whole cable out, it was some time before the anchor was at the bows, and then we had the launch to hoist up alongside before we could make sail. By this unlucky accident we found ourselves at daybreak next morning three leagues to the leeward of our last station ; and foreseeing that it would require more time to recover it than I chose to spend, I made the signal for the Discovery to weigh and join us. This was done * It is very remarkable that in this custom, which one would think is so unnatural as not to be adopted by two different tribes originally unconnected, the people of this island, and Dam- pier's natives on the west side of New Holland, at such an immense distance should be found to agree. — NoU in Origvnal Edition. Dampier, in his Sixteenth Chapter (ante, p. 264), says of the New Hollanders: "The two fore teeth of their upper jaw are want- ing in all of them, men and women, old and young ; whether they draw them out, I know not" 288 COOK'S VOYAGES about noon, and we immediately stood away to the northward in prosecution of our voyage. Thus after spending more time about these islands than was necesaary to have answered all our purposes, we were obliged to leave them oefore we had completed our water and got from them such a quan- tity of refreshments as their inhabitants were both able and willing to have supplied us with. But as it was, our ship procured from them provisions sufficient for three weeks at least ; and Captain Gierke, more fortunate than us, got of their vegetable productions a supply that lasted his people upward of two months. The observations I was enabled tosition. Their visage, especially amongst the women, is sometimes round, but others hare it long ; nor can we say that thoy are distinguished as a nation by any general cast of countenance. Their colour is nearly of a nut brown ; and it may be difficult to make a nearer comparison, if we take in all the dif- ferent hues of that colour ; but some individuals are darker. The women have been already mentioned as being little more delicate tnan the men in their formation ; and I may say that, with a very few exceptions, they have little claim to those peculiarities that distinguish the sex in other countries. There is, indeed, a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of both sexes than in most places I have visited. However, upon the whole, they are far from being ugly, and appear to have few natural de- formities of any kind. Their skin is not very soft nor shining, perhaps for want of oilinjj, which is jjractisedat the Southern Islands ; but their eyes and teeth are in general very tolerable. The hair, for the greatest part, is straight, though in some frizzling ; and though its natural colour be commonly black, it is sti. ed as at the Friendly and other isl. ads. "We saw but few in- stances of corpulence, and these oftener among the women than the men ; but it was chiefly amongst the latter that personal defects were observed, though, if any of them can claim a share of beauty, it was most conspicuous amongst the young men. They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers, leaving their canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving under them, and swimming to others, though at a great distance. It was very common to see women, with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without endangering their little ones, swim to the shore through a uia that looked dreadful. They seem to be blest with a frank, cheerful disposition ; and were I to draw any comparisons, I should say that they are ecLually free from the [VoY.III.B.IlI.Cn.XIl. fickle levity which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate cast observable amongst many of those of Tongataboo. They seem to live very sociably in their inter- course with one another ; and except the propensity to thieving, which seems innate in most of the people we have visited in this ocean, they were exceedingly friendly to us. And it does their sensibility no little credit, without flattering ourselves, that when they saw the various articles of our European manufac- ture, they could not help expressing their surprise, by a mixture of joy and concern that seemed to apply the case as a lesson of humility to themselves ; and on all occasions they appeared deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority, a behaviour which equally exemjjts aeir national character from the pre- j)Osterous pride of the more polished Japanese, and of the ruder Green- lander. It was a pleasure to observe with how much aftection the women managed their infants, and how readily the men lent their assistance to such a tender office, thus suffici- ently distinguishing themselves from those savages, who esteem a wife and child as things rather necessary than desirable or worthy of their notice. From the numbers which we saw collected at every village as we sailed past, it may be supposed that the inhabitants of this island are pretty numerous. Any computation that we make can be only conjectural. But, that some notion may be formed which shall not greatly err on either side, I should suppose that, including the straggling houses there might be upon the whole island, sixty such villages as that before which we anchored ; and that, allowing five persons to each house, there would be in every village 500, or 30,000 upon the island. This number is certainly not exaggerated, for we had sometimes 3000 persons at least upon the beach, when it could not be sup« posed that above a tenth part of the inhabitants wore present. The common dress both of the Pub. 1778.1 NATIVES OP THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. women and of the men ha<< been already described. The firat liave often much larger pieces of cloth wrap- ped round them, reacliiug from just be- low the breasts to the haras, or lower ; and several were seen with pieces thrown looselv about the shoulders, which covered the greatest part of the body ; but the children, when very young, are quite naked. They wear nothing unon the head, but the hair in both se: es is cut in different forms ; and the general fashion, espe- cially among the women, is to have it long before, and short behind. The men often had it cut or shaved on each side, in such a manner that the remaining part in some measure resembles the crest of their caps or helmets formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem very careless about their hair, and have nothing like combs to dress it with. Instances of wearing it in a singular manner were sometimes met with among the men, who twist it into a number of separate parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thickness of a finger, though the gi-eatest part of these, which are so long that they reach far down the ^ack, we observed were artificially fixed upon the head over their own hair. It is remarkable that, contrary to the general practice of the islands we had hitherto discovered in the Pacific Ocean, the i^eople of the Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated, nor have they the lea.st idea of wear- ing ornaments in them. Both sexes, nevertheless, adorn themselves with necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, like our hat-string, often above (i hundred-fold, exactly like those of Watoeoo, only that instead of the two little balls, on the middle before, they fix a small bit of wood, stone, or shell, about two inches long, with a broad hook, turning forward at its lower part, well polished. They have likewise necklaces of many strings of very small shells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow ; and sometimes a small human image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polislied, is hung round the neuk. 235 The women also wear bracelets of a single shell, pieces of black wood with bits of ivory interspersed, and well polished, fixed by a string drawn very close through them ; or othera of hogs' teeth, laid parallel to each other, with the concave part outward, and the points cut off, fastened to- gether as the former ; some of which, made only of large boars' tusks, are very elegant. The men sometimes wear plumes of the tropic birds' feathers stuck in their heads, or those of cocks fastened round neat polished sticks two feet long, commonly de- corated at the lower part with " oora ;" and, for the same purpose, the skin of a white dog's tail is sewed over a stick, with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the head a kind of ornament of a finger's thickness or more, covered with red and yellow feathers, curiously varied, and tied behind ; and on the arm, above the elbow, a kind of broad shell-work grounded upon net-work. The men are frequently punctured, though not in any particular part, as the Otaheiteans and those of Tonga- taboo. Sometimes there are a few marks upon their hands or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we could observe none at all, though a few individuals had more of this sort of ornament than we had usually seen at other places, and ingeniously executed in a great variety of lines and figures on the arms and forepart of the body, on which latter some of them had the figure of the " taame," or breastplate of Otaheite, though we did not meet with the thing itself amongst them. Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living in villages, thei-e is no appearance of defence or fortifi- cation near any of them ; and the houses arc scattered about without anv order either with respect to their distances from each other, or their position in any particular direction. Neither is there any proportion as to their size ; some being large and com- modious, from forty to fifty feet long and twenty or thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their 286 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. Ill, B. Ill.Cn. XII figure is not unlike oblong corn or hay stacks ; or perhiips a better idea may be conceived of them if we sup- pose the roof of a barn placed on the ground in such a manner as to fonn a high, acute ridge, with two very low sides hardly discernible at a dis- tance. The gable at each end, cor- responding to the sides, makes these habitations perfectly close all round ; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid on slender poles, disposed with some regularity. The entrance is made indiiferently in the end or side, and is an oblong hole so low that one must rather creep than walk in, and is often shut up by a board of planks fastened together, which serves as a door, but having no hinges, must be removed occa- sionally. No light enters the house but by this opening ; and though such close habitations may afford a comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill-adapted to the warmth of the climate. They are, however, kept remarkably clean, and their floors are covered with a large quantity of dried gi'ass, over which tliey spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind of bench about three feet high, on which their houstthold utensils are placed. The catalogue is not long. It con- sists of gourd-shells, which they con- vert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to con- tain their victuals and other things, with covers of the same ; and ot a few wooden bowls and trenchers of diiferent sizes. Judging from what we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, there can be no doubt that the greatest part of their vegetable food consists ot sweet pota- toes, " taro," and plantains, and that bread-fruit and yams are rather to be esteemed rarities. Of animal food they can be in no want, as they have abundance of hogs, which run without restraint about the houses ; and if they eat dogs, which is not improb- able, their stock of these seemed to be very considerable. The great number of fishing-hooks found among tliem showed that they derive uo in- considerable supply of animal food from the sea. But it should seem, from their practice of salting fish, that the openness of their coast often interrupts the business of catching them ; as it may be naturally supposed that no set of people would ever think of preseiTing quantities of food arti- ficially if thtsy could tlejiend upon a daily regular supply of it in its fresh state. This sort of reasoning, how- ever, will not account for their custom of salting their pork as well as thoir fish, which are preserved in gourd- shells. The salt, of which they use a great quantity for this purpose, ia of a red colour, not very coarse, and seems to be much the same with what our stragglers found at Christmas Island. It has its colour, doubtless, from a mixture of the mud at the bottom of the part where it is formed ; for some of it tliat had adhered in lumps was of a sufficient whiteness and purity. They bake their vegetable food with h^ted stones as at the Southern Is- lands ; and from the vast quantity which we saw dressed at one time, we suspected that the whole village, or at least a considerable number of people, joined in the use of a common oven. We did not see them dress any animal food at this island, but Mr Gore's party, as already men- tioned, had an opportunity of satis- fying themselves that it was dressed in Oneeheow in the same sort of ovens, wliich leaves no doubt of this being also tho practice in Atooi, es- pecially as we met with no utensil there that could be applied to the purpose of stewing or boiling. The only artificial dish we met with was a "taro" pudding, which, though a disagreeable mess from its sourness, was greedily devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates or trenchers ; and the women, as far as we could judge from one instance, if restrained from feeding at the same dish with the men, as at Otaheite, are at least permitted to eat in the same place near them. Their amusements seem pretty vari« ous, for during our stay several were Feb. 1778.] AMUSEMENTS OP THE NATIVES. 287 diacovered. The dances at which they iiae the feathered cloaks and caps were not seen ; but from the motions whicli they made with their hands on other occasions when they sang, we could form some judgment that they are in some degree at least similar to those we had met with at the Southern Islands, though not executed so skilfully. Neither had they amorist them either flutes or reeds ; and the only two musical in- struments which we observed were of an exceedingly rude kind. One of them docs not produce a melody ex- ceeding that of a child's rattle. It consists of what may be called a conic cap inverted, but scarcely hollowed at the base above a foot high, made of a coarse sedge-like plant ; the upper part of which and the edges are or- namented with beautiful red feathers, and to the point or lower part is fixed a gourd-shell larger than the list. Into this is put sometliing to rattle, which is done by holding the instrument by the small part, and shaking or rather moving it from place to place briskly, either to different sides, or backward and forward just before the face, strik- ing the breast with the other hand at the same time. The other musical instrument (if either of them deserve that name) was a hollow vessel of wood like a platter, combined with the use of two sticks, on which one of our gentlemen saw a man perform- ing. He held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle, with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was smaller and re- sembled a drumstick, in a quicker or slower measure; at the same time beating with his foot upon the hollow vessel that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune that was by no means disagreeable. This music was accompanied by the vocal performance of some women, whose song had a pleasing and tender effect. We observed great numbers of small polished rods about four or five feet long, somewhat thicker than the rammer of a musket, with a tuft of long white dogs' hair fixed on the small end. These are probably used in their diversions. We saw a person take one of them in his han(( and, holding it up, give a smart stroke till he brought it into a liorizontal posi- tion, striking with the foot on the same side upon the ground, and with his other hand beating his breast at the same time. They play at bowls with pieces cf whetstone of about a pound weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but rounded at the sides and edges, which are very nicely polished ; and they have other bowls of the same sort, made of a heavy reddish brown clay, neatly glazed over with a composition of the same colour, or of a coarse, dark grey slate. They also use, in the manner that we throw quoits, small, flat, rounded pieces ot the writing slate, of the diameter of the bowls, but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also well polished. From these circumstances one would be induced to think that their games are rather trials of skill than of strength. In everything manufactured by these people there appears to be an uncom- Inon degree of neatness and ingenuity. Their doth, which is the principal manufacture, is made from the Mortu papyri/era, and doubtless in the same manner as at Otaheite and Tongata- boo ; for we bought some of the grooved sticks with which it is beaten. Its texture, however, though thicker, is rather inferior to that of the cloth of either of the other places ; but in colouring or staining it the people of Atooi display a superiority of taste, by the endless variation of figures which they execute. One would sup- pose, on seeing a number of their pieces, that they had borrowed their patterns from some mercp'' shop in which the most elegant ; y.jctions of China and Europe are collected ; besides some original patterns of their own. Their colours, indeed, except the red, are not very bright ; but the regularity of the figures and stripes is truly surprising, for, as far as we knew, they have nothing like stamps or prints to make the impressions. In what manner they produce their colours we had not opportunitiefe 238 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.III.B.IlI.Cn. XII, of learning ; bat besides the party- coloured sorts tbey bare some ])ieceii of plain white cloth, and others of a single colour, particularly dark brown and light blue. In general, the pieces which they brought to us were about two feet broad, and four or five feet long, being the form and quantity that they use for their common dress or "maro ;" end even these we some- times found were composed of piece.'' sewed together, an art which we did not find to the southward, but is strongly though not very neatly per- formed here. There is also a p.^rticu- lar sort that is thin, much resembling oil-cloth ; and whipt ia acti'.ally either oiled or soaked in some kind of var- nish, and seemj to resisu the action of water pretty well. They fabricate a great many white mats, whicn are strong, with many red stripes, rhom- buses, and other figures intcfrwoven on one sid'', and often pretty large. These, probably, make a part of their dress occasionally ; for they put them on their backs when Ihoy offered them for sale. But they make others coarser, plain and strong, which they spread over their floci' to sleep upon. They stain their gourd-shells pret- tily with undulated lines, triangles, and other figures of a black colour, iut+ances of which we saw practised at l^ew Zealand. And they seem to posseis the art of varnishing ; for »;ome of these stained gourd-shells are covered with a kind of lacquer ; and on other occasions they use a strong size, or gluey substance, to fasten their things together. Their wooden dishes and bowls, out of which they drink their "ava,"areof the "etooa tree, or cordia, as neat as if made in our turning-lathe, and perhaps better polished. And amongst their articles of handicraft may be reckoned small square fans of mat or Thicker-work, with handles tapering from ttiem of the same, or of wood, which are neatly wrought with small cords of hair and fibres of the cocoa-nut coir intermixed. The great variety of fishing-hooks are ingeniously made ; some of bone, others of wood pointed with bone, and many of peari shell. Of ^he last, some are like a sort that we saw at Tou< gataboo ; and others simply curved, as the common sort at Otahoite, as well as the wooden ones. Tlie bones are mostly small, and composed of two pieces ; and all the diiferont sorts have a barb, either on the inside like ours, or on the outside o]>posite the same part ; but others have both, the outer one being farthest from the point. Of this last sort one was jtrocurcd, :^'ine inches Ung, of a single piece of bone, which doubtless belonged to some large fish. The elegant form and polish of this could not certainly be outdone by any European artist, even if he should add all his know- ledge in design to the number and v-onvcnience of his tools. They polish their stones by constant friction with pumice-stone in water ; and such of their working instruments or tools as I saw resembled those of the Soutliern Islands. Their hatchets, or rather adzes, were exactly of the same pat- tern, and either made of the same sort of blackish stone or of a clay -coloured one. They have also little instru- ments made of a single shark's tooth, some of which are fixed to the fore- part of a dog's jaw-bone, and >tbers to a thin wooden handle of the same shape ; and at the other end there is a bit of string fastened through a small perforation. These serve as knives occasionally, and are perhaps used in carving. The only iron tools, or rather bit« of iron, seen amongst them, and which they had before our arrival, were a {)iece of iron hoop about two inches ong, fitted into a wooden handle ;^ and another edge-tool which our people guessed to be made of the point of a broad-sword. Their having the actual possession of these, and their so gene- rally knowing the use of this metal, inclined some on board to think that we had not been the first European visitors of these islands. But it seema to me that tlu very great surprise ex- pressed by them on seeing our ships, and their total ignorance of the nse of * Captain King purchased this, and brought it to England. I Prb. 1778.] THEIR KNOWLEDGE flre-arms, cannot be reconciled with such a notion. There are many ways by which such people may get nieces of iron, or acquire the knowledge of the existence of such a metal, without ever having had an immediate con- nection with nations that use it. It can hardly be doubted that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of this sea before Magellan led the way into it ; for no discoverer, immediately after his voyage, ever found any of this metal in their possession, though in the course of our late voyages it has been observed that the use of it was known at several islands to which no former Europoan ships had ever, as far as we know, found tneir way. At all the places wliorc Mendana ' touched in his two voyages, it must have been seen and left ; and this would extend the knowledge of it, no doubt, to all tho various islands with which those whom he had visited had any imme- diate intercourse. It might even be carried farther; and where specimens of this article conld not be procured, descriptions miglit in some measure serve to make it known when after- ward seen. The next voyage to the southward of the Line in which any intercourse was had with the natives of this ocean was that of Quiros, who landed at Sagittaria, the Island of Handsome People, and Tierra del Espiritu Santo,* at all which places, and at those with whom they had any communication, it must oi conse- * An enterprising Spanish naviga- tor, who in the latter half of the six- teenth century undertook two vo3'age8, in the first of which he discovered the Salomon Islands, and in the second the Marquesas and Queen Charlotte's Islands, &c. ■ Quiros sailed from Callao at the end of 1605, in command of four ships, to plant a Spanish colony in Santa Cruz, discovered by Mendana. Sagit- taria is supposed to be Otaheite ; Tierra del Espiritu Santo, which Quiros san- guinely mistook for part of the long- sought Southern Continent, is the group now better known by the name Cook gave it, that of New Hebrides. OF IRON ACCOUNTED FOR. 289 quence have been made known. To him succeeded in this navigation Le Maire and Schouter," whose connec- tions with the natives commenced much farther to the eastward, and ended at Cocos and Horn Islands. It was not surprising that when I visited Tongatabco in 1773 I should find a bit of iron there, as we knew that Tasraan had visited it before me ;* but let us suppose that he had never discovered the Friendly Islands, our finding iron amongst them would have occasioned much speculation, though we have mentioned before' the method by which they had gained a renewal of their knowledge of this metal, which confirms my hypothesis. For Neeoo- tabootaboo, or Boscawen's Island, where Captain Wallis's ships left it, and from whence Poulaho received it, lies some degrees to the north-w%st of Tongataboo. It is well known that Roggewein lost one of his ships on the Pernicious ' inds,* which from their situation aio probably not unknown to, though not frequently visited by, the inhabitants of Otuhcite and the. Society Islands. It is equally certain that these last people had a know- ledge of iron, and purchased it with the greatest avidity, when Captain "Wallis discovered Otaheite ; and thig knowledge could only have been ac- quired through the mediation of those neighbouring islands where it had been originally left. Indeed they acknowledge that this was actually the case ; and they have told us since that they held it in such estimation before Captain Wallis's arrival, that a chief of Otaheite, who had got two nails into his possession, received no small eir lument by letting out the use of these to his neighbours for the purpose of boring holes when their own methods failed or were thought too tedious. The men of tho Society » 1616-1617. * In 1643. » Ante, Book II., Chapter X., n. • Believed to be the Palliser's Isles of English maps. The wreck hap])ened in 1722. 240 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B.III. Ch. XII. Islands, •whom we found at Wateeoo, had been driven thither long after the knowledge and use of iron had been introduced amongst their country- men ; and though probably they had no specimen of it with them, they would naturally and with ease com- municate at that island their know- ledge of this valuable materie.1 by description. From the people of Wateeoo, again, those of Hervey's Island might derive that desire to possess some of it, of which we had proofs daring our short intercourse with them. . . . The very short and imperfect inttr- course which we had with the natives put it out of our power to form any accurate judgment of the mode of govemmentestablishedamongstthem, but from the general resemblance of customs, and particularly from what we observed of the honours paid to their chiefs, it seems reasonable to believe that it is of the same nature with that which prevails throughout all the islands we had hitherto visited, and probably their wars amongst themselves are equally fretjuent. This indeed, might be inferred from the niimber of weapons which wd found then, possessed of, and from the ex- cellent order these were kept in. But we had direct proof of the fact from their own confession, and as we under- stood these wars are between the differ- ent districts of their own island, as well as between it and their neighbours at Oneeheow and Orrehoua. We need scarcely assign any other cause besides this to account for the appearance, already mentioned, of their population hearing no propoition to the extent of their grf^und capable of cultivation. Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chnsnut-cplonred wood beauti- fully polished, some of which r^-e barhfld at one end and flattened to a p<;,int at the other, they have a sort of weapon which we had never seen before, and not ineniioned by any navigator oa used by the natives of the ^outh Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in general about a foot and a half long, sharpcnud at one or bi.th ends, and secured to the hand by a string. Its use is to stab at close fight, and it seems well adnpted to the purpose. Some of these may be called double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are better enabled to strike different ways. They have also bows and arrows; but both from their appar- ent scarcity and thein* slender make it may almost be presumed that they never use them in battle. The knii>j or saw formerly mentioned, with Tichich they dissect the dead bodies, may also be ranked amongst their weapons, as they both strike and cut with it when closely engaged. It is a small flat wooden instrument of an oblong shape, about a foot long, rounded at the corners, with a handle almost like one sort of the "patoos" of New Zealand; but its edges are entirely surrounded Avith sharks' teeth strongly fixed to it, and point- ing outward, having commonly a hole in the handle through which passes a long string which is wrapped several times round the wrist. We also sus- pected that they use slings on some occasions ; for we got some pieces of the /uematites or blood-stone, artifici- ally made of an oval shape, divided longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part. To this the person who had one of them applied a cord of no great thickness, but would not part with it, though he had no objection to part with the stone ; wliich must prove fatal when thrown with any force as it weighed a pound. We likewise saw some oval pieces of whetstone well jwlished, but somewhat pointed toward each end, nearly rcsemHiiig in shape some stones which we had seen at New Caledonia in 1774, and used there in their slings. What we could learn of their relig- ious institutions, anri the manner of disposing of their dead, which may properly be considered as closely con- nected, has been already mentioned. And as nothing more strongly points out the affinity between the manners of these jieople nnd of the Friendly and Society Islands, I must just mention some other circumstances to ■ LAISTGUAQE OF TONGATABOO AND OTAHEITE. Fbb. 1778.] place this in a stiong point of view ; and at the same time to show how a few of fcho infin'te rawlifioatiopo of which a few leading principles are capable, may distinguish any particu- lar nation. The people of" Tongata- boo inter their dead in a very decent manner, and they also inter their bTiinan sacrifices; but they do not oifer or expose any other animal or oven vegetable to their gods, as far as we know. Those of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expose them to waste by time and putrefaction though the bones are afterward buried; and as this i« the case, it is very remark- able that they should inter the entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer other animals and vegetables to their gods, but are by no means attentive to the state of the sacred places where those solemn rites are performed; most of their " morais " being in a ruinous condi- tion and bearing evident marks of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their common dead and human sacrifices as at Tongataboo; but they resemble those of Otahtite in the slovenly state of their religi- ous places, ana in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. _ The " taboo " also prevails in Atooi in its full e;ctcnt, and seemingly with much more rigour than even at Tongata- boo. For the people here always asked, with great eagerness and signs of fear to offend, whether any particu- lar thing which they desired to see, or we were unwilling to show, was "taboo," or, as they pronounced the word, "tafoo." The "maiaraa," or forbidden articles, at the Society Islands^ though doubtless the same thing, did not seem to be so strictly observed by them, except with re- spect to .the dead, about whom we thought them more superstitious than any of the others were. But theso are circumstances with which we aro not as yet sufficiently acquainted to be decisive about; and I shall only just observe, to show the similitude In other matters connected with ra- ligion, that the priests or "tahounas" here, are as numerous as ei the other 24l islands, if we may judge from our being able, during our stay, to dis- tinguish several sajing their "poore" or prayer. But whatever resemblance we might discover, in the general manners of the people of Atooi, to those of Ota- heite, these of course were less stril:- ing than the coincidence of language. Indeed, the languages of both places may be said to be almost word for word the same. It is true that we sometimes remarked particular words to be pronounced exactly as we liad found at New Zealand and the Friendly Islands ; but though all the four dialects are indisputably the same, these ^ people in general have neither the strong guttural pronunci- ation of the former, nor a less degree of it which also distinguishes the latter ; and they have not only adopt- ed the soft mode of the Otaheiteans in avoiding harsh sounds, but t.^ whole idiom of their language, using not only the same affixes and suiRxes to their words, but the same measure and cadence in their songs, though in a manner somewhat less agreeable. There seems indeed, at first hearing, some disagreement to the ear of a stranger ; but it ought to be con- sidered that the people of Otaheite, from their frequent connections with the English, had learned in some measure to adapt themselves to our scanty knowledge of their language, by using not only the most common but even corrupted expressions in conversation with us ; whereas when they conversed among themselves, and used the several parts necessary to propriety of speech, they wero scarcely ?d I'l understood by those amongst ur ho had made the greatest proficient i their vocabulary. How nail we account for this nation's having spread itself in so many detached islands so widely dis- joined from each other in every quarter of the Pacific Ocean ? We nnd it from New Zealand in the south as far as the Sandwich Islands to the north ; and, in another direction, from Easter Island to the Hebrides, that is, over an extent of sixty degrees of ff«S latitude or 1200 leagues north and Bouth, and eighty-three degrees of longitude or 1660 leagues east and west. How mnch farther in either direction its colomes reach, is not known; but what we know already, in consequence of this and our former voyage, warrants our pronouncing it to be, though perhaps not the most numerous, certainly by far the most extensive nation upon earth. Had the Sandwich Islands been dis- covered at an early period by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage of so excellent a situation, and nave made use of Atooi or some other of the islands as a refreshing-place for the ships that sail annually from Acapulco for Manilla. They lie almost midway between the first place KTidGuam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only port in tra- versing this vast ocean ; and it would not have been a week's sail out of their common route to have touched at them, which could have been done without running the least hazard of losing the passage, as they are suffi- ciently witmn the verge of the easterly trade-wind. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands would have been equally favourable to our Buc- caneers, who used sometimes to pass from the coast of America to the Ladrones with a stock of food and water scarcely sufficient to preserve life.^ Here they might always have found plenty, and have been within a month's sure sail of the very part of California which the Manilla ship is obliged to make,* or else have re- turned to the coast of America, tlioro Jghly refitted, after an absence of two months. How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what hardships would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a group of islands half way between America and Tinian, where all his wants could * Witness Dampicr's description of the weary and perilous passage. • Cape San Lucas, the soutliemmost point. COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. III. Ch. XIIL have been effectually supplied, and in describing which the elegant his- torian of that voyage would have pre- sented his reader with a more agree- able picture than I have been able to draw in this Chapter?' -^ CHAPTER XIIL .16 i After the Discovery had joined ii»; we stood away to the northward, close hauled, with a gentle gale from the east. On the 7th, being in the Latitude of 29° N., and in the Longi- tude of 200° E., the wind veered to SE. This enabled us to steer NE. and E., which course we continued till the 12th, when the wind had veered round by the S. and W. to NE. and ENE. I then tacked and stood to the nortliward, our Latitude being 30° N., and our Longitude 206° 15' E. Notwithstanding our advanced latitude, and its being the winte- season, we had only begun for a few days past to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and evenings. This is a sign of the equal and lasting in- fluence of the sun s heat at all seasons to 30* on each side the Line. The disproportion is known to become very great after that. This must be attributed almost entirely to the direc- tion of the rays of the sun, independ- ent of the bare distanop, wliich is by no means equal to the eti'cct, Ou the 19th, being now in the Latitude of 37° N., and in the Longi- tude of 206° E., the wind veered to SE. ; and I was enabled again to steer to the E., inclining to the N, > With all deference to Mr Walter, the Narrator of Anson's voyage — or to Captain Cook's self-humbling esti- mate of his own performance, wo taink most will prefer the plain un- varnished tale, full of new and in- teresting facts, told by the unlettered sailor to the eloquent flourishes of the Centurion's Chaplain, whose glowing descriptions of Tinian were sadljr dis- credited by the subaeqiient experience and report of practical, prosaic men. Mar. 1778.] PROSECUTION OF VOYAGE NORTHWARD. /IS We had on the 26th reached the Latitude of 42° 80' and the Longitude of 219°, and then we be^an to meet with the rock-weed mentioned by the writer of Lord Anson's voyage, under the name of sea-leek, which the Man- illa ships generally fall in with. Now and then a piece of wood also appeared ; but if we had not known that the Continent of North America was not far distant, we might, from the few signs of the vicinity of land hitherto met with, have concluded that there was none within some thousand leagues of U8. We had hardly seen a bird or any other oceanic animal since we left the Sandwich Islands. On the 1st of March, our Latitude being now 44* 49' N., and our Longi- tude 228' E.; we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a wind from the north, with which I stood to the east, close hauled, in order to make the land. According to the charts, it ought not to have been far from us. It was remarkable that we should still be attended with such moderate and mild weather so far to the northward, and so near the coast of an extensive continent, at this time of the year. The present season either must be un- common for its mildness, or we can assign no reason why Sir Francis Drake should have met with such severe cold about this latitude in the month of June.' Viscaino, indeed, who was near the same place in the depth of winter,' says little of the • Cook even understates the case against his own experience, for it was only in the Latitude of 88° 30' N. tliat Drake foimd the "convenient and fit harbour," where he continued from the 17th of June till the 23d day of July 1579, " during all which time we were constantly visited with like nip- ping colds as we had never felt before " — more intense than some of his people had felt at Wardhys, in 72°, not at the height of summer, but at the end of it. See ante, pp. 73, 76. • Sent from Acnpulno in May 1602 to search the Calitoniian coast for a ■ecure harbour in which the galleons cold, and speaks of a ridge of snowy mountains somewhere on the coast aa a thing rather remarkable. Our see- ing so few birds in comparison of what we met with in the same lati< tudes to the south of the Line, ia another singular circumstance, which must either proceed from a scarcity of the different sorts or from a deficiency of places to rest upon. From henco we may conclude that beyond 40' in the southern hemisphere the species are much more numerous, and the isles where they inhabit also more plentifully scattered about than any- where between the coast of California and Japan in or near that latitude. Dunng a calm on the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed covered with a kind of slime, and some small sea animals were swim- ming about, the most conspicuous of which were of the gelatinous or Medusa kind, almost globular ; and another sort smaller, that had a white or shining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of these last were taken up and put into a glass cup with some salt water, in wh'ch they appeared like small scales or biti of silver when at rest in a prone situa- tion. When they began to swim about ivhich they did with equal ease uj. n their back, sides, or belly, they emitted the brightest colours of the most precious gems, according to their position with respect to the light Sometimes they appeared qui te pellucid, at other times assumiig various tints of blue, from a pale sapphirine to a deep violet colour, which were frequently mixed witli a ruby or opaline redness, and ;rlowed with a strength sufficient to illuminate the vessel and water. These colours appeared most vivid when the glass was held to a strong light, and mostly vanished on the subsiding of the ani- mals to the bottom, when they had a brownish cast. But with candle light the colour was chiefly a beautiful pale green, tinged witn a burnished glass ; and in the dark it had a faint might find refuge. The sottlomout and fortification of Monterey was thorosult. 244 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. III. Gh. XIIL appearance of glowing fire. They proved to be a new species of Oniscus, and from their properties were by Mr Anderson (to whom we owe this ac- count of them) called Oniscus fvlgcns, being probably an animal which has a share in producing some sorts of that lucid appearance often observed near ships at sea in the night. On the same day two large birds settled on the water near the ship. One of these was the Procellaria maxima (the " quebrantahuesos " ^), and the other, which was little more than half the size, seemed to be of the albatross kind. The upper part of the wings and tip of the tail were black, with the rest white ; the bill yellowish ; upon the whole not unlike the sea- gull, though larger. On the 6th at noon, being in the Latitude of 44° 10' N. and the Longi- tude of 2344° E., we saw two sails and several whales ; and at daybreak the next morning the long-Iooked-for coast of New Albion* was seen, ex- tending from NE. to SE., distant ten or twelve leagues. At noon our Lati- tude was 44 33' N. and our Longi- tude 235° 20' E.; and- the land ex- tended from NE, half N. to SE. by S., about eight leagues distant. In this situation we had seventy-three fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and about a league farther off found ninety fathoms. The land appeared to be of a moderate height, diversified with hills and valleys, and almost everywhere covered with wood. There was, however, no very striking object on any part of it except one liill, whose elevated summit woa flat. This bore east from us at noon. At the northern extreme the land formed a point, which I called Cape Foul- weather, from the very bad weather that we soon after met with. I judge * The Spanish name for the sea- eagle, or osprey ; literally, ' ' the bone- breaker;" Latin, " ossifrago," so called from the great strengUi of its beak. ■ This part of the west side of North America was so named by Sir Francis Drake in 1579. it to lie in the Latitude of 44° 65' K. and in the Longitude of 235° 64' E. We had variable liglit airs and calms till 8 o'clock in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at SW. With it 1 stood to the NW. under an easy sail, waiting for daylight to range along the coast. But at four next morning the wind shifted to NW., and blew in squalls, with rain. Our course was NE. till near 10 o'clock, wlien, finding that I could make no progress on this tack, and seeing nothing like a harbour, I tacked and stood off SW. At this time Cape Foulweather bore NE. by N., about eight leagues distant. Towards noon the wind veered more to the W., and the weather became fair and clear, so that we were enabled to make lunar observations. Having reduced all those that we had made since the 19th of last month to the present ones, by the time-keeper, amounting in the whole to seventy-two sets, their mean result determined the Longitude to be 235° 15' 26" E., which was 14' 11" less than what the time-keeper gave. This longitude is made use of foi settling that of the coast, and I have not a doubt of its being within a very few miles of the tnith. Our difficulties now began to in- crease. In the evening the wind came to the NW., blowing in squalls, with hail and sleet ; and the weather being thick and hazy, I stood out tc sea till near noon the next day, when I tacked and stood in again for the land, which made its appearance at two in the afternoon, bearing ENE. Tlie wind and weather continued the same, but in the evening the former veered more to the W., and the latter grew worse, which made it necessary to tack and stand off till four the next morning, when I ventured to stand in again. At four in the after- noon we saw the land, which at six extended from NE. half E. to SE. by S., about eight leagues distant. In this situation w tacked and sounded, but a line of 160 fathoms did not roach the ground. I stood off till midnight, then stood in again ; aiid &t halt -past six we were within three Mar. 1778.] APPEARANCE OP leagaes of the land, which extended from N. by E. half E. to S. half E., each extreme about seven leagues dis- tant. Seeing no signs of a harbour, and the weather being still unsettled, I tacked and stretched off SW., having then fifty -five fathoms of water over a muddy bottom. That part of the land which we were so near when we tacked is of a moder- ate height, though in some places it rises higher within. It was diversified with a great many rising grounds and small hills, many of which were en- tirely covered with tall straight trees, and others, which were lower, and grew in spots like coppices ; but the interspaces and sides of many of the rising grounds were clear. The whole, though it miglit make an agreeable summer prospect, had now an un- comfortable appearance, as the bare grounds toward the coast were all covered with snow, which seemed to be of a considerable depth between the little hills and rising grounds, and in several places towards the sea might easily have been mistaken at a distance for white cliffs. The snow on the rising grounds was thinner spread, and farther inland there was no appearance of any; from whence we might perhaps conclude that what we saw towards the sea had fallen during the night, which was colder than any we had experienced since our arrival on the coast, and we had Bometimes a kind of sleet. The coast seemed everywhere almost straight, without any opening or inlet ; and it appeared to terminate in a kind of white sandy beach, though some on board thought that appearance was owing to the snow. Each extreme of the land that was now before us seemed to shoot out into a point. The north- ern one was the same which we had first seen on the 7th, and on that account I called it Cape Perpctua. It lies in the Latitude of 44° 6' N. and in the Longitude of 235' 62' E. The southern extreme before us I named Cape Gregory.^ Its Latitude is 43° * In the English calend*r the 7th of March is distinguished by the name AMERICAN COAST. 245 30' N. and its Longitnde 235* 67' E., It is a remarkable point, the land of it rising almost directly from the sea to a tolerable height, while that on each side of it is low. I continued standing off till one in the afternoon. Then I tacked and stood in, hoping to have the wind off from the land in the night. But in this I was mistaken ; for at 6 o'clock it began to veer to the W. and SW., which obliged me, once more, to stand out to sea. At this time Cape Per- petua bore NE. by N, ; and the far- thest land we could see to the south of Cape Gregoiy bore S. by E. , perhaps ten or twelve leagues distant. If I am right in this estimation, its Lati- tude will be 43' 10' N. and its Longi- tude 235° 55' E., which is nearly the situation of Cape Blanco discovered or seen by Martin d'Aguilar on the 19th of January 1603. It is worth observing that in the very latitude where we now were geographers have been pleased to place a large entrance or strait, the discovery of which they take upon them to ascribe to the same navigator ; whereas nothing more is mentioned in the account of his voy- age than his having seen, in this situa- tion, a large river which he would have entered, but was prevented by the currents. The wind, as I have observed, had veered to the SW. in the evening; but it was very unsettled, and blew in squalls, witti snow showers. la one of these, at midnight, it shifted at once to WNW., and soon increased to a very hard gale, with heavy squalls, attended with sleet or snow. There was no choice now ; and we were obliged to stretch to tlie southward in order to get clear of the coast. This was done under courses and two close- reefed topsails, being rather more sail than the ships could safely bear ; but it was necessary to carry it to avoid the more pressing danger of being forced on shore. This gale continued till 8 o'clock in the morning of the 13th ; when it abated, and I stood in again of Perpetua M. of Gregory B, and the 12th by that 246 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. III. Ca. Xia for the land. We had been forced a considerable way backward ; for at the time of our tacking we were in the Latitude of 42° 45' and in the Longi- tude of 233" 30'. The wind continued at W. and NW., storms, moderate weather, and calms, succeeding each other by turns till tlie morning of the 21st J when, after a few hours' calm, a breeze sprung up at SW. This bringing with it fair weather, I steer- ed NE. in order to fall in with the land beyond that part of it where we had already so unprofitably been tossed about for the last fortnight. In the evening the wind veered to the west- ward ; and at 8 o'clock the next morn- ing we saw the land, extending from N£. to £. nine leagues distant. At this time we were in the Latitude of 47° 5' N. and in the Longitude of 235° 10' E. I continued to stand to the north with a fine breeze at W. and WNW., till near 7 o'clock in the evening, when I tacked to wait for daylight. At this time we were in forty-eight fathoms water, and about four leagues from the land, which extended from N. to SE. half E., and a small round hill, which had the appearance of being an island, bore N. three-quar- ters E., distant six or seven leagues, as I guessed ; it appears to be of a tolerable height, and was but just to be seen from the deck. Between this island or rock, and the northern ex- treme of the land, there appeared to be a small opening, which flattered us with the nopes of finding a har- bour. These hopes lessened as we drew nearer, and at last we had some reason to think that the opening was closed by low land. On this account I called the point of land to the north of it Cape Flattery. It lies in the Latitude of 48° 15' N., and in the Longitude of 235° 3' E. There is a round hill of a moderate height over it, and all the laud upon this x>art of the coast is of a moderate and pretty equal height, well covered with wood, and had a very pleasant and fertile appearance. It is in this very lat ? cudo where we now were, that geographers have placed the pretended Strait of Juan de Fuca. We saw nothing like it, nor is there the least probability that ever any such thing existed. * I stood off to the southward tiU night, when I tacked and steered to the NW. with a gentle breeze at SW., intending to stand in for the land as soon as daylight should appear. But by that time we were reduced to two courses and close-reefed topsails, hav- ing a very hard gale, with rain, right on shore ; so that, instead of running in for the land, I was glad to get an offing, or to keep that which we had already got. "The SW. wind was, however, but of short continuance, for in the evening it veered again to the W. Thus we had perpetually strong W. and NW. winds to encoun- ter. Sometimes in an evening the wind would become moderate and veer to the southward ; but this was always a sure prelude to a storm, which blew the hardest at SSE., and was attended with rain and sleet. It seldom lasted above four or six hours before it was succeeded by another gale from the NW., which generally brought with it fair weather. It was by the means of these southerly blasts that we were enabled to get to the NW. at all. At length, at 9 o'clock in the morning of the 29th, as we were ^ Cook here lent himself too readily to the undiscriminating condemna* tion of the romancing Cephalonian's marvellous tales about a strait or channel which he entered in this latitude, emerging after a prolonged navigation, into the Atlantic. There is now little doubt that Juan de Fuca really discovered, and partly explored the Strait that bears his name, and that Cook credulously, and ynth. quite unusual lack of enterprise passed lightly by. At all events, the chan- nel beai-s at this day the name of the Grr.'co-Spanish navigator; and the recent arbitration (1872) by the Ger- man Emperor on the San Juan dis- pute with America has rendered its name not auite pleasantly familiar to many English folk who never heard of it before. MAn. 1778.] BEHAVIOUR OF staoding to the N£., we again saw the land, which, at noon, extended from NW. by W. to ESE., the nearest part about six leagues distant. Our Latitude was now 49 29' N., and our Longitude 232° 29' E. The ap- pearance of the country differed much from that of the parts which we had before seen, being full of high moun- tsiins, whose summits were covered with snow. But the valleys between them, and the grounds on the sea coast, high as well as low, were covered to a considerable breadth with high, straight trees, that formed a beautiful prospect as of one vast forest. The SE. extreme of the land formed a low point, off which are many breakers, occasioned by sunken rocks. On this account it was called Point Breakers. It lies in the Latitude of 49° 15' K., and in the Longitude of 233° 20' E., and the other extreme in about the Latitude of 50'' and the Longitude of 232°. I named this last Woody Point. It projectH pretty much out to the SW., and is high land. Between these two points the shore forms a large bay, which I called Hope Bay, hoping from the appearance of the land to find in it a good harbour. The event proved that we were not mistaken. As we drew nearer the coast, we perceived the appearance of two inlets; one in the NW., and the other in the NE. corner of the bay. As I could ijot fetch the former, I bore up to the latter, and passed some breakers or sunken rocks that lay a league or more from the shore. We had nine- teen and twenty fathoms ^water half- a-Ieague without them ; but as soon as we. had passed them, the depth increased to thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom ; and farther in we fou'.d no bottom with the greatest length of line. Not- withstanding appearances, we were not yet sure that there werfi .in inlets ; but, as we were in 9 denp bay, I resolved to anchor, iirith * view to endeavour to get some water, of which by this time we were in great want. At length, as we advanced, the existence of the inlet was no longer THE NATIVES. 247 doubtful. At 6 o'clock we reached the west point of it, where we weie becalmed for some time. While in this situation I ordered all the boats to be hoisted out to tow the ships in. But this was hardly done before a fresh breeze sprung up again at NW., with which we were enabled to stretch tip into an arm of the iulet that was observed by us to run in to the nerth- east. There we were again becalmed, and obliged to anchor in eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery before she got within the arm, where she anchor- ed, and found only seventy fathoms. We no sooner drew near the inlet than we found the coast to be in- habited ; and at the place where we were first becalmed three canoes came off to the ship. In one of these were two men, in another six, aiid in thr third ten. Having come pretty neai us, a person in one of the two last stood up and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, as we gtiessed b} his gestures. At the same time hi kept strewing handfuls of feathen towards us;^ and some of his com panions threw handfuls of red du. t or powder in the same manner. Tie person who played the orator wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something which rattled as he kept shaking it. After tiring himself with his repeated exuorta- tions, of which we did not under- stand a word, he was quiet ; and then others took it by turns to say some- thing, though they acted their part neither so long uor with so much vehemence as the other. We observed that two or three had their hair quite strewed over with small white feathers, and others had large ones stuck into different parts of the head. After the tu'-i.ultuous noise had ceased, they \y at a little distance from the ship, and conversed with each other in a very easy manner ; nor did they seem * The natives of this coast twelve degrees farther south, also brought feathers as presents to Sir Francis Drake on his arrival. 248 to show tlie least surprise or distrust. Some of them now and then got up and said something after the manner of their first harangues ; and one sung a very agreeable air, with a degree of softness and melody which we could not have expected, the word "haela" being often repeated as the burden of the song. The breeze which soon after sprung up bringing us nearer to the shore, the canoes began to come off in greater numbers ; and we had at one time thirty -two of them near the ship, carrying from, three to seven or eight persons each, both men and women. Several of these stood up in their canoes haranguing and making gestures after the manner of our first visitors. One canoe was remarkable for a singular head, which had a bird's eye and bill of an enormous size painted on it ; and a person who was in it, who seemed to be a chief, was no less re- markable for his uncommon appear- ance, having many feathers hanging from his head, and being painted in an extraordinary manner.^ He held in his hand a carved bird of wood, as large as a pigeon, with which he COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. IV. Ch. I. rattled as the person first mentioned had done ; andT was no less vociferous in his harangue, which was attended with some expressive gestures. Though our visitors behftved very peaceably, and could not be suspected of any hostile intention, we could not prevail upon any of them to come on board. They showed great readiness, however, to part with anything they had, and took from us whatever we offered them in exchange ; but were more desirous of iron than of any other of our articles of commerce, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that metal. Many of the canoes fol- lowed us to our anchoring-place ; and a group of about ten or a dozen of them remained alongside the Resolu- tion most part of the night. These circumstances gave us a rea- sonable ground of hope that we should find this a comfortable station to sup- ply all our wants, and to make us forget the hardships and delays ex- perienced during a constant succes- sion of adverse winds and boisterous weather almost ever since our arrival upon the coast of America. BOOK IV. TRANSA0TI0N8 AMONGST THE NATIVES OP NORTH AMERICA; DIS- COVERIES ALONG THAT COAST, AND THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, NORTHWARD TO ICY CAPE ; AND RETURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. The ships having happily found so excellent shelter in an mlet, the coasts of which appeared to be inhabited by a race of people whose inoffensive * Viscaino me*: with natives on the coast of California, while he was in the harbour of San Diego, who were painted or besmeared with black and white, and had their heads loaded with feathers. behaviour promised a friendly inter- course, the next morning, after com- ing to anchor, I lost no time in en- deavouring to find a commodious harbour where we might station our* selves diuing our continuance in the sound. Accordingly I sent three armed boats under the command of Mr King upon this service ; and soon after, I went myself in a small boat on the same search. I had very little trouble in finding what we wanted. On the noith-west of the arm we ver% Mar. 17^8.] ARTICLES BROUGHT TO BARTER. aow in, and not far from the ships, I met with a convenieut snug cove well suited to our purpose. Mr King was equally successful ; for he returned about noon with an account of a still better harbour which he hod scon and examined, lying on the north-west side of the land. But as it would have req^uired more time to carry the ships thither than to the cove where I had been, which was immediately within our reach, this reason operated to determine my choice in favour of the latter situation. But being appre- hensive that we should not be able to transport our ships to it, and to moor them properly, before night came on, I thought it best to remain where we were tul next morning ; and that no tiiae might be lost, I employed the remainder of the day to some useful purposes, ordering the sails to be un- bent, the top-masts to be struck, and the fore-mast of the Resolution to be unrigged, in order to fix a new bib, one of the old ones being decayed. A great many canoes filled with the natives were about the ships all day, and a trade commenced betwixt us and them which was carried on with the strictest honesty on both sides. The articles which they offered to sale were skins of various animals, Buch as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, polecats, martens, and in particular of th' sea otters, which are found at the islands east of Eamts- chatka. Besides the skins in their native shape, they also brought gar- ments made of them, and another sort of clothing made of the bark of a tree, or some plant like hemp ; weapons, such as bows, arrows, and spears ; fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds ; wooden visors of many different monstrous figures ; a sort of woollen stuff, or blanketing ; bags filled with red ochre, pieces of carved work, beads, and several other little ornaments of thin brass and iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, which they hang at their noses, and several chisels or pieces of iron fixed to handles ; from their possessing which metals, we could infer that they had either been visited before by some 24Q civilised nation, or had connection with tribes on their continent who had communication with them. But the most extraordinary of all the articles which they brought to the shipsforsale were human skulls and hands, not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made our people plainly understand they had eaten ; and indeed some of them had evident marks that they had been upon the fire. We had but too much reason to suspect from this cir- cumstance that the horrid practice of feeding on their enemies is. as pre- valent here as we had found it to be at New Zealand and other South Sea Islands. For the various articles which they brought they took in exchange knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nuils, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind of metal. Gliaa beads they were not fond of, and cloth of every sort they rejected. We employee! the next day in hauling our ships into the cove, where they were moored head and stem, fastening our hawsers to the trees on shore. On heaving up the anchor of the Resolution we found, notwithstanding the great depth of water in which it was let go, that there were rocks at the bottom. These had done some considerable damage to the cable, and the hawsers that were caiTied out to warp the ship into the cove also got f')ul of rocks, from which it appeared that the whole bottom was strewa vith them. The ship being agaiti very leaky in her upper works. I ordered the carpenters to go to work to calk her, and to repair such other defects as on ex- amination we might discover. The fame of our arriv^ brought a great concourse of the natives to our ships in the course of this day. We counted above 100 canoes at onetime^ which might be supposed to contain at an average five per>ci:5 each, fgr few of them had less than three on board, great numbers had sevoii, eight, or nine, and one was manned with no less than seventeen. Amongst these visitors many now favoured ua with their company for the first time, which we could guess from their approach- 2fi0 ing the sliips with their orations and other ceremonies. If tliey had any distrust or fear of us at first, they now appeared to have laid it aside, for they came on board the ships and mixed with our people with the great- tat freedom. We soon discovered by this nearer intercourse that they were OS light-fingered as any of our friends in the islands we had visited in the course of the voyage. And they were far more dangerous thieves, for pos- sessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the iustant that our backs were turned. A large hook weighing be- tween twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller ones, and other articles of iron, were lost in this manner ; and as to our boats, they stripped them of every bit of iron that was worth carrying away, though we had always men left in them as a guard. They weredextrous enough in effectingtheir purposes, for one fellow would con- trive to amuse the boat-keeper at one end of a boat, while another was Tiulling out the iron-work at the other. If we missed a thing immediately after it had been stolen we found little difficulty in detecting the thief, as they were ready enough to impeach one another. But the guilty person generally relinquished his prize with reluctance, and sometimes we found it necessary to have recourse to force. The ships being securely moored, we began our other necessary business the next day. The observatories were carried ashore and placed unon an elevated rock on one side of the cove close to the Resolution. A party of men, with an ofiicer, was sent to cut wood and to clear a place for the con- veniency of watering. Others were employed to brew spruce-beer, as pine- trees abounded here. The forge was also set up to make the iron-work wanting for the rejjairs of the fore- mast. But, besides one of the bibs being defective, tie lai board trestle- tree and one of the cross-trees were sprung. . . . After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair day, we availed COOK'S VOYAGES. fVoY. III. B. IV.Oh.1. ourselves of it to get up the top-masts and yards, and to get up the rigging. And having now finished most of our heavy work, I set out the next morn- ing to take a view of the sound. I first went to the west point, where I found a large village, and before it a very snug harbour, in which was from nine to four fathoms water over a bottom of fine sand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to most of whom I was well known, received me very courteously; every one pressing me to go into his house, of, rather, his apartment, for several families live under the same roof. I did not decline the invitations, and my hospitable friends whom I visited spread a mat for me to sit upon, and showed me every other mark of civility. In most of the houses were women at work making dresses of the plant or bark before mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in oi)ening sardines. I had seen a large quantity of them brought on shore from canoes, and divided by measure amongst several people, who carried them up to their houses, where the operation of curing them by smoke- drying is performed. They hang them on small rods at first about a foot from the fire, afterward they remove them higher and higher to make room for others, till the rods on which the fish hang reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried, they are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted, and they are not a disagreeable article of food. Cod and other large fish are also cured in the same manner by them, though they sometimes dry these in the open air without fire. From this village I proceeded up the west side of the souno. For about three miles I found the shore covered with small islands, which are so situ- ated as to form several convenient harbours, having various depths of water from thirty to seven fathoms, with a good "bottom. Two leagues within the sound on this west sido Apml 1778.] BEHAVIOUR OP NATIVES AT THEIR VILLAGES. 251 in 1 there runs in an arm in the direction of NNW.; and two mllea farther is another nearly in the same direction, with a jwetty large island before it. I had no time to examine either of tliese arms, but have reason to believe that they do not extend far inland, as the water was no more than brackish at their entrances. A mile above the second arm I found the remains of a village. The logs or framings of the houses were standing, but the boards that had composed their sides and roofs did not exist. Before this vil- lage were some large fishing weirs, but I saw nobody attending them. These weirs were composed of pieces of wicker-work made of small rods, some closer than others, according to the size of the fish intended to be caught in them. These pieces of wicker-work (some of whose superficies are at least twenty feet by twelve) are fixed up edgewise in shallow water by strong poles or pickets that stand firm in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain of a few miles' ex- tent, covered with the largest pine- trees that I ever saw. This was the more remarkable as the elevated ground on most other parts of this west side of the sound was rather naked. From this place I crossed over to the other, or east side of the sound, passing an arm of it that runs in NNE., to appearance not far. I now found, what I had before conjectured, that the land under which the ships lay was an island, and that there were many smaller ones lying scattered in the sound on the west side of it. Opposite the north end of our large island, upon the mainland, I ob- served, a village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it were not so TK.ite as those of the other I had just visited. But this cold reception seemed in a great measui-e, if not en- tirely, owing to one surly chief, who would not lot me enter their houses, following me wherever I went ; and several times bv expressive signs marking his impatience that I should be gone. I attempted in vain to •ootne him by presents, but though he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some of the young women, better pleased with ua than was their inhospitable chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel ; and, assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village by joining in a song which was mr from harsh or disagreeable. The day being now far spent, I procaeded for the ships round the north end of the large island, meeting in my way with several canoes laden with sardines which had been just caught some- where in the east corner of the sound. When I got on board, I was informed that while I was absent the ships had been visited by some strangers m two or three large canoes, who by signs made our people understand that they had come from the south-east beyond the bay. They brought seve- ral skins, garments, and other articles, which they bartered. But, what was most singular, two silver table-spoons were purchased from them, wbich, from their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Spanish manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round his neck by way of ornament. These visitors also appeared to be more plen- tifully supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the sound. The mizzen-mast being finished, it was got in and rigged on the 21st ; and the carpenters were set to work to make a new fore-topmast to re- place the one that had been carried away some time before. Next morn- ing, about 8 o'clock, we were visited by a number of strangers in twelve or fourteen canoes. They came into the cove from the southward, and as soon as they had turned the point of it, they stopped and lay drawn up in a body above half-an-hour about 200 or 300 yards from the ships. At first we thought that they were afraid to come nearer, but we were mistaken in this, and they were only preparing an in- troductory ceremony. On advancing toward the ships, they all stood np in their canoes and began to sing. Some of their songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow and others in 'y of an article of trade which, tht^ could observe, we were eager to possess, and which we found could bo purchased to great advantage. Such particulars about the country and its inhabitants as came to our knowledge during our short stay, and have not been mentioned in the course of the narrative, will furnish materials for the two following Chap- ters. CHAPTER II. On my arrival in this inlet I had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound, but I afterwards found that it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, in the Latitude of 49° 83' N. and in the Longitude of 233° 12' E. The east coast of that bay, all the way from Breakers Point to the entrance of the sound, is covered by a chain of sunken rocks that seemed to extend some distance from the shore ; and near the sound are some islands and rocks above water. We enter this sound between two rocky points that lie ESE. and WNW. from each other, distant be- tween three and four miles. Within these points the sound widens con- siderably, and extends in to the north- ward four leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches towards its bottom, the termination of which we had not an opportunity to ascertain. But from the circumstance of finding that the water freshened where our boats crossed their entrance, it is probable that they had almost reached its utmost limits. And this proba- bility is increased by the hills that bounded it toward the land, being covered with thick snow, when those toward the sea, or whore we lay, had 264 COOK'S VOYAGES. not a speck remaining on them, though in general they were much higher. In the middle of the sound are a num- ber of islands of various sizes. The depth of water in the middle of the Bound, and eren close home to some parts of its shore, is from forty •seven to ninety fathoms, and perhaps more. The harbours and anchoring-places within its circuit are numerous, but we had nc time to survey them. The core in which our sliips lay is on the east side of the sound and on the east side of the largest of the islands. It is covered from the sea, but has little else to recommend it, being exposed to the south-east winds, which we found to blow with great violence ; and the devastation they make sometimes was apparent in many places. The land bordering upon the sea- coast is of a middling height and level, but within the sound it rises almost everjrwhere into steep hills, which agree in their general formation, ending in round or blunted tops, with some sharp though not very prominent ridges on their sides. Some of those hills may be reckoned high, while others of them are of a very moderate height ; but even the highest are en- tirely covered to their tops with the thickest woods, as well as every flat part toward the sea. There are some- times spots 'upon the sides of some of the hills which are bart;, bat they arc few in comparison of the whole, though they sufficiently point out the general rocky disposition of these hills. Pro- perly speaking, they have no soil upon them except a kind of compost produced from rotten mosses and trees of the depth of two feet or more. Their foundations are therefore to be considered as nothing more than stu- pendous rocks of a whitish or grey cast where they have been exposed to the weatiier; but when broken they amieiired to bo of a bluish-grey colour, lixe that universal sort which were found at Kerguolen'd Land. The rocky shores ure a continued mass of this, and the little coves in tlio sound have beaches composed of frag- ments of it, with a few other pebbles. All these coves aro furnished with a [V0T.ITI.B.IV.0H.n. great quantity of ftiUen wood lying in them, which is carried in by the tide, and with rills of fresh water sufficient for the use of a ship, which seem to be supplied entirely from the rains and fogs that hover about the tops of the hills. For few springs can be ex- pected in so rocky a country, and the fresh water found farther up the sound most probably arose from the melting of tne snow, there being no room to suspect that any large river falls into the sound, either from strangers coming down it or from any other circumstance. The water of these rills is perfectly clear, and dis- solves soap easily. The weather during our stay corre- sponded pretty nearly with that which we had experiencea off the coast. That is, when the wind was anywhere between N. and W. the weather was fine and clear ; but if to the S. of W. hazy, with rain. The climate, as far as we had any exj)erience of it, is in- finitely milder than that on the ea.st r joat of America under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the thermometer never even in the night fell lower than 42°, and very often in the day it rose to 60°. No such thing as frost was perceived in any of the low ground, on the con- trary, vegetation had made a consider- able progress, for I met with grass that was already above a foot long. The trees which chiefly compose the woods are the Canadian pine, white cypress, Cyprcsaus thyoides, the wild pine, with two or three other sorts of pine less common. The first two make up almost two-thirds of the whole, and at a distance might be mistaken for the same tree, as they both run up into pointed spire-like tops; but they are easily distinguished on coming nearer from their colour, tae cypress beinjr of a much paler green, or shade, than tlie other. The trees in general grow with great vigour, and are all of a largo size. There is but little variety of other vegetable pro- ductions, though doubtless several had not yet sprnng up at the early senson when we visited the place ; and many more might be hid front the April 1778.] SKINS BROUGHT FOR SALE. 255 narrow sphere of our researches. Abont the rocks and verge of the woods we found strawberry plants, some rasp- berry, currant, and gooseberry bushes, which were all in a most flourishing state, with a few small black alder- trees. There are likewise a species of sow-thistle, goose-grass, some crow's- foot, which has a veiy fine crimson flower ; and two sorts of Anthericum, one with a large orange flower, and the other with a blue one. We also found in these situations some wild rose-bushes which were just budding ; a great quantity of young leeks with triangular leaves ; a small sort of grass ; and some water-cresses, which grow abont the sides of the rills ; be- sides great abundance of Andromeda. Within the woods, besides two sorts of underwood shrubs unknown to us, are mosses and ferns. Of the first of which are seven or eight different sorts, of the last not above three or four; and the species of both are mostly such as are common to Europe and America. The account that we can give of the quad)'upeds is taken from the skins whicii the natives brought to sell, and these were often so mutilated with respect to the distinguishing parts, such as the paws, tails, and heads, that it was impossible even to guess at the animals to which they belonged, though others were bo perfect, or at least so well kno\vn, that they left no room to doubt about them. Of these the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The bear-skins were in great numbers, few of them very large, but in general of a shining black colour. The deer- nkins were scarcer, and they seem to belong to that sort called the fallow- deer by the historians of Carolina, though Mr Pennant^ thinks it quite a different species iirom ours, and distin- * The celcbr8,ted naturalirt and an- tinuary, whoso "British Zoology," "Historv of Quadrupeds," "Arctic Zoology, ' &c., are less remembered and relished at this day than his Tours In Scotland aiid in Wales, and his "Account of London." guishes it by the name of Yirginian deer. The foxes are in great plenty, and of several varieties ; some of their skins being quite yellow, with a black tip to the tail; others of a deep or reddish yellow intermixed with black ; and a third sort of a whitish grey or ash-colour, also intermixed with black. Our people used to apply the name of fox or wolf indiscriminately when the skins were so mutilated as to leave room for a doubt ; but we got at last an entire wolf-skin with the head on, and it was grey. Besides the common sort of marten, the pine-marten is also here, and another, whose skin is of a lighter brown colour than either, with coarser hair; but is not so common, and is perhaps only a mere variety arising from age or some other acci- dental circumstance. The ermine is also found at this place, but is rare and small ; nor is the hair ren)arkably fine, though the animal apjwared to be perfectly white ; and squirrels are of the common sort, but the latter is rather smaller than ours, and has a deeper rusty colour running along the back. We were clear as to the existence of all the animals already mentioned, but there are two others besides which we could not distinguish with suffi- cient certainty. Of the first of these we saw none of the skins but what were dressed or tanned like leather. The natives wear them on some occa- sions, and from the size as well as thickness thoy were generally con- cluded to belong to the elk or moose- deer, though some of them perhaps might belong to the buffalo. The other animal, which seems by no means rare, was guessed to be a species of the wild cat or lynx. The length of the skins without the head, which none of them had, was abont two feet two inches. They are covered with a very fine wool or fur of a very light brown or whitish yellow colour, inter- mixed with long hairs, which on the back, where they ore shortest, are blackish ; on the sides, wheie they are longer, of a silver white ; ard on the bellj, where they are longest, of tlie colour of the wool ; but the whitish or i B-Zzz: COOK'S VOYAGES. (Tot. III. fi. IV. Ch. II. without at the base of the two middle ones. In these circumstances it seems to disagree with those found by ths Russians, and also in not having the outer toes of the hind feet skirted with a membrane. There seemed also a greater variety in the colour of the skins than is mentioned by the describers of the Russian sea-otters. These changes of colour certainly take place at the different gradations of life. The very young ones had brown hair, which was coarse, with very little fur underneath, but those of the size of the entire animal which came into our possession had a con- siderable quantity of that substance ; and both in that colour and state the sea-otters seem to remain till they have attained their full growth. After that they lose their black colour, and assume a deep brown or sooty colour ; but have then a greater quantity of very fine fur and scarcely any long hairs. Others, which we suspected to be still older, were of a chestnut brown; and a few skins were seen that had even acquired a perfectly yellow colour. The fur of these ani- mals, aa mentioned in the Russian accounts, is certainly softer and finer than that of any others we know of, and therefore the discovery of this part of the continent of North Ame- rica, where so valuable an article of commerce may be met with, cannot be a matter of indifierence. Birds in general are not only rare as to the different species, bui very scarce as to numbers, and these few are so shy, that in all probability they are continually harassed by the na- tives, perhaps to eat them aa food, certainly to get possession of their feathers, which they use as ornaments. Those which frequent the woods are 260 silver hairs are often so predominant that the whole animal acquires a cast of that kind. The tail is only three inches long, and has a black tip. The whole flkin being -by the natives called "wanshee," that most probably is their name for this animaL Hogs, dogs, and goats have not as yet found their way tu this place. Nor do the natives seem to have any knowledge of our brown rats, to which, when they saw one on board the ships, they applied the name they give to squir- rels. And though they called our goats "eineetla,' this most probably is their name for a young deer or fawn. The sea-animals seen off the coast were whales, porpoises, and seals. The last of these seem only of the common sort, judging from the skins which we saw here ; their colour being either silvery, yellowish, plain, or apotted with black. The porpoise is the Phocena. I have chosen to refer to this class the sea-otter, as living mostly in the water. It might have been sufficient to have mentioned that this animal abounds here, as it is fully described in different books taken from the accounts of the Rus- sian adventurers in their expeditions eastward from Kamtschatka, if there had not been a small difference in one that we saw. We for some time entertained doubts.whether the many pkins which the natives brought really belonged to this animal, as our only reason for being of that opinion was founded on the size, colour, and fine- Bess of the fur ; till a short while be- fore our departure, when a whole one that liad been just killed was pur- chased from some strangers who came to barter. It was rather young, weighing only twenty-five pounds ; of a shining or glossy black colour; but I crows andjravcnsr not at all different many of the liairs being tipt with white, gave it a greyish cast at first sight. The face, throat, and breast were of a yellowish white or very light brown colour, which in many of the skins extended the whole length of the belljr. It had six cutting-teeth in each jaw ; two of those of the lower jaw being very minute, and placed from our English ones ; a bluish jay or magpie ; common wrens, which are the only singing bird that we hear; the Canadian or migrating thmsh; and a considerable number of brown eagles with white heads and tails, which, though they seem principally to frequent the coast, come into the sound in bad weather and sometimes [or APRitl778.] OF THE BIRDS, WATERFOWL. AND FISH. 257 perch upon the trees. Amongst some other birds of which the natives either brought fragments or dried skins, we could distinguish a small species of hawk, a heron, ttnd the Alcyon or large-crested American kingfisher. There are also some which, I believe, are not mentioned, or at least vary very considerably from the accounts given of them by any writers who have treated professedly on this part of natural history. The first two of these are species of woodpeckers; one less than a thrush, of a black colour above, with white spots on the wings, a crimson head, neck, and breast, and a yellowish, olive-coloured belly, from which last circumstance it might perhaps not improperly be called the yellow-bellied woodpecker. The other is a larger and mucn more elegant bird, of a dusky brown colour on the upper pai-t, richly waved with black, except about the head, the belly of a reddish cast, with round black spots, a black spot on the breast, and the under side of the wings and tail of a plain scarlet colour, though blackish above ; with a crim- son streak running from the angle of the mouth a little down the neck on each side. The third and fourth are a small bird of the finch kind, about the size of a linnet, of a dark dusky colour, whitish below, with a black head and neck and white bill, and a sand-piper of the size of a small pigeon, of a dusky brown colour, and white below except the throat and breast, with a broad white band across the wings. There are also humming- birds ; which yet seem to differ from the numerous sorts of this delicate animal already known, unless they be a mere variety of the TrocJdlus coluhris of Linneeus. These p"Thaps inhabit more to the southward, and spread northward as the season ad- vances, because wo saw none at fii-st, though near the time of our depar- ture the natives broiiglit them to the ehii»s in gront numbers. The birds which frecjuent the waters and the shores, are noc more numerous than the others. The " qnebrantahucsos " [or ospreys], gulls, and Bhag.s, were seen off the coast; and the last two also frequent the sound. They are of the common sorts, the shags being our cormorant or water-crow. We saw two sorts of wild ducks; one black, with a white head, which were in considerable flocks ; the other white, with a red bill, but of a largei size; and the greater "lumme," or diver, found in our northern coun- tries. There were also seen, once ot twice, some swans flying across the sound to the northward, but we knew nothing of their haunts. On the shores, besides the sand -piper de- scribed above, we found another about the size of a lark, which bears a great affinity to the " burre ;" and a plover differing very little from our common sea-lark. Fish are more plentiful in quantity than birds, though the variety is not very great ; and yet from several cir- cumstances it is probable that even the variety is considerably increased at certain seasons. The principal sorts, which we found in great num- bers, are the common herring, but scarcely exceeding seven inches in length ; a smaller sort, which is the same with the anchovy or sardine, though rather larger ; a white or sil- ver-coloured bream, and another of a f;old-brown colour, with niany narrow ongitudinal blue stripes. The her- rings and sardines, doubtless, come in large shoals, and only at stated seasons, as is common with that sort of fish. The bream of both sorts may be reckoned the next to these in quan- tity ; and the full-grown ones weighed at least a pound. The other fish, which are all scarce, are a small brown kind of "sculpin," such as is found on the coast of Norway ; another of a brown- ish red cast ; frost fish ; a large one somewhat resembling the bullhead, with a tough skin destitute of scales ; and now and then, towards the time of our leaving the sound, the natives brought a small brownish cod spotted witli white, and a red fish of the same size, which some of our people said they had scon in the Straits of Magel- lan ; besides another differing little from the hake. There ore also con- 258 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vov. III. B. IV. Ch. II. siderable numbers of those fish called the ChimoeroB, or little sea-wolves, by some, which is akiu to aud about the size of the "pezegallo" or elephant- fish. Shavks likemse sometimes fre- quent the sound, for the natives have some of their teeth in their possession ; and we saw some pieces of rav or skate which seemed to have been pretty large. The other marine ani- mals that ought to be mentioned here are a small cruciated Medusa or blub- ber ; star-fish which differ somewhat from the common ones ; two small sorts of crabs, and two others which the natives brought, one of them of a thick, tough, gelatinous consistence, and the other a sort of membranaceous tube or pipe ; both which are probably taken from the rocks. And we also purchased from them once a very largo cuttle-fish. There is abundance of large mussels about th."' rocks ; many sea-ears ; and we often saw shells of pretty large plain OKamoe. The smaller sorts are some Trochi of two species ; a curious Murex, rugged wilks, and a snail, all which are probably pecu- liar to this place ; at least I do not recollect to have seen them in any country near the same latitude in eitber hemisphere. There are besides these some small plain cockles, lim- pets ; and some strangers who came into the sound, woi'e necklaces of a small bluish volute, or PanamoR. Many of the mussels are a span in length, and some having pretty large pearls, which, however, are both badly shaped and coloured. We may con- clude that there is red coral in the sound or somewhere upon the coast ; some thick pieces or branches having been seen in the canoes of the natives. The only animals of the reptile kind observed here, and found in tlie woods, were brown snakes two feet long, with whitish stripes on the back and sides, which are harmless, as we often saw the natives carry them alive in their hands ; and brownish water-lizards, with a tail exactly like that of an eel, which frequented tlio small standing pools about the rocks. The insect tribe seem to be more numerous. For tbough the season which is peculiarly fitted to their appearing abroad was only beginning, we saw four or five difftrent sorts of butterflies, none of which were uncommon ; a good many humble bees ; some of our common gooseberry moths ', two or three sorts of flies ; a few beetles ; and some mos- quitoes, which probably may be more numerous and troublesome, in a coun- try so full of wood, during the summer, though at this time they did little mischief. As to the mineral substances in this country, though we found both iron and copper here, there is little reason to believe that either of them belong to the place. Neither were the ores of any metal seen, if we except a coarse, red, earthy or ochry substance used by the natives in painting themselves, which probably may contain a little iron, with a white and black pigment used for the same purpose. But we did not procure specimens of them, and therefore cannot positively deter- mine what are their component parts. Besides the stone or rock that consti- tutes the mountains and shores, which sometimes contains pieces of very coarse quartz, we found amongst the natives things made of a hard black granite, though not remarkably com- pact or fine grained ; a greyish whet- stone ; the common oil-stone of our carpenters, in coarser and finer pieces ; and some black bits which are little inferior to the hone-stone. The natives also use the transparent leafy "glim- mer," or muscovy glass ; a brown leafy or martial sort ; aud they sometimes brought to us pieces of rock crystal, tolerably transparent. The first two are probably found near the spot, as they seemed to be in considerable quantities ; but the latter seems to be brought from a greater distance, or is very scarce, for our visitors always l)arted with it reluctantly. Some of the pieces were octangular, and had the appearance of being formed into that shape by art. The persons of the natives are in genond under the common stature, but not slender in proportion, being com- monly pretty full or plumn, tnough not muscular. Neither dotli the soft PEl^SONAL APPEARANCE OF NATIVES. Araa 1778.1 fleshiness seem ever to swell into cor- pulence ; and many of the older people are rather spare or lean. The visage of most of them is round and full, and sometimes also broad, with large prominent clieeks ; and above these the face is frequently much depressed, or seems fallen in quite across between the temples ; the nose also flattening at its base, with pretty wide nostrils and a rounded point. The forehead rather low ; the eyes sm.iU, black, and rather languishing than sparkling ; the mouth round, with large round thickish lips ; the teeth tolerably equal and well set, but not remark- ably white. They have either no beards at all, which was most com- monly the case, or a small thin one upon the point of the chin, which does not arise from any natural defect of hair on that part, but from pluck- ing it out more or less ; for some of them, and particularly the old men, hare not only considerable beards all over the chin, but whiskers or mous- taches both on the upper lip and running from thence towards the lower jaw obliquely downward. Their eye- brows ore also scanty, and always narrow ; but the hair of the head is in great abundance, very coarse and strong, and without a single exception black, straight, and lank, or hanging down over the shoulders. The neck is short ; the arms and body have no particular mark of beauty or elegance in their formation, but are rather clumsy ; and the limbs in all are very small in proportion to the other parts, and crooked or ill made, with large feet badly shaped, and projecting ankles. This last defect seems in a great measure to arise from their sit- ting so much on their hams or knees, both in their canoes and houses. Their colour we could never posi- tively determine, as their bodies were incrusted with paint and dirt, though in particular cases, when these were well rubbed off, the whiteness of the skin appeared almost to equal that of Europeans, though rather of that pale effete cast which distinguishes those of our southern nations. Their chil- dren, whose ikins bad never been 259 stained with paint, also equalled onrs in whiteness. During their youth some of them have no disagreeable look, if compared to the generality of the people ; but this seems to be en- tirely owing to the particular anima- tion attending that period of life, for after attaining a certain age there is hardly any distinction. Upon the whole, a very remarkable sameness seems to characterise the counten- ances of the whole nation ; a dull phlegmatic want of expression, with very little variation, being strongly marked in all of them. The women are nearly of the same size, colour, and form with the men, from whom it is not easy to distinguish them, as they possess no natural delicacies su£Bl- cient to render their persons agreeable ; and hardly any one was seen, even amongst those who were in the prime of life, who had the least pretensions to be called handsome. Their common dress is a flaxen gar- ment, or mantle, ornamented on the upper edge by a narrow stiip of fur, and at the lower edge by fringes or tassels. It passes under the left arm, and is tied over the right shoulder by a string before and one behind, near its middle, by which means both arms are free ; and it hangs evenly, covering the left side, but leaving the right open, except from the loose part of the edges falling upon it, unless when the mantle is fasteneii by a girdle (of coarse matting or woollen) round the waist, which is often done. Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a small cloak of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower part. In shape this resembles a round dish-cover, oeing quite close except in the middle, where there is a hole just large enough to admit the head ; and then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to the elbows and the body as far aa th? waist. Their head is covered with a cap of the figure of a truncated cone, or like a flower-pot, made of fine matting, having the top frequently ornamented with a round or pointed knob or a bunch of leathern tassels ; and there is u string that passes under 260 COOK'S VOYAGES the chin to prevent its blowing off. Besides the above dress, which is com- mon to both sexes, the men frequently throw over their other garments the skin of a bear, wolf, or sea-otter, with the hair outward, and tie it as a cloak near the upper part, wearing it some- times before and sometimes behind. In rainy weather they throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have also woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The hair is commonly worn hanging down loose ; but some, when they have no cap, tie it in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their dress upon the whole is con- venient, and would by no means be inelegant were it kept clean. But as they rub their bodies constantly over with a red paint of a clayey or coarse ochry substance mixed with oil, their garments by this means contract a rancid offensive smell and a gieas}* nastiness. So that they make a very wretched dirty appearance ; and what is still worse, their heads and their garments swarm with vermin, which, so depraved is their taste for cleanli- ness, we used to see them pick off with great composure and eat. Though their bodies are always covered with red paint, their faces are often stained with a black, a bright red, or a white colour, by way of ornament. The last of these gives them a ghastly, disgusting aspect. They also strew the brown martial mica upon the paint, which makes it glitter. The ears of many of tbem are perforated in the lobe, where they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher up on the outer edge. In these holes they hang bits of bone, quills fixed upon a leathern thong, gmall shells, bunches of woollen ta!s- sels, or pieces of thin coppr", which our beads could never supplant. The septum of the nose in many is also perforated, through which they draw a piece of soft cord ; am* others wear at the same place small thin pieces of iron, brass, or copper, s laped almost like a horseshoe, the nariuv? opening of which receives the septum so as that the two points may gently pinch it, and the ornament thus hangs over the rVoY.Iir.B.TV.CH.II. upper lip. The rings of our brass but- tons, which they eagerly pirchased, were appropriated to this use. About their wrists they wear bracelets or bunches of white bugle beads, made of a conic shelly substance ; bunches of thongs with tassels ; or a broad, black, shining, homy substance, of one piece. And about their ankles they also frequently wear many folds of leathern thongs, or the sinews of animals twisted to a considerable thickness. Thus far of their ordinary dress and ornaments ; but they have some that seem to be used only on extraordinary occasions, either when they exhibit themselves as strangers, in visits of ceremony, or when they go to war. Amongst the first may be considered the skins of animals, such as wolves or bears, tied on in the usual manner, but ornamented at the edges with broad borders of fur, or of the woollen stuff manufactured by them, ingeni- ously wrought with various figures. These are worn either separately or over their other common garments. On such occasions the most common headdress is a quantity of withe, or half-beaten bark, wrapped about the head, which at the same time has various large feathers, particularly those of eagles, stuck in it, or is en- tirely covered, or we may saypowdered, with small white feathers. The face, at the same time, is variously painted, having its ' pper and lower parts of different colours, the strokes appearing like fresh gashes ; or it is besmeared with a kind of tallow, mixed with paint, which is afterward formed into a great variety of regular figures, and appears like carved work. Some- times, again, the hair is separated into small parcels, which are tied at inter- vals of about two inches, to the end, with thread ; and others tie it together behind, after our manner, and stick branches of the Oypressi'^ thyoidea in it. Thus dressed, they liave a truly savnge and incongruous appearance ; but this is much heightened when they assume what may be called their monstrous decorations. These consist of an endless trariety of carved wooden iPKiLl778.] OF THEIR ORNAMENTS AND WOODEN MASKS. 261 or masks or visors applied on the face, or to the upper part of the head or forehead. Some of these resemble human faces, furnished with hair, beards, and eye-brows ; others, the ho^fis of birds, pai-ticularly of eagles and " quebrantahuesos ;" and many, the heads of land and sea animals, ruch as wolves, deer, porpoises, and others. But in general chese repre- sentations much exceed the natural size ; and they are painted, and often strewed with pieces of the foliaceous mica, which makes them glitter, and serves to augment their enormous de- formity. They even exceed this some- times, and fix on the same part of the head large pieces of carved work, re- sembling the prow of a canoe, painted in the same manner, and projecting to a considerable distance. So fond are they of these disgaises, that I Lave seen one of them put his head into a tin kettle he had got from us, for want of another sort of mask. Whether they use these extravagant masquerade ornaments on any particular religious occasion or diversion ; or whether they be put on to intimidate their enemies when they go to battle, by their mon- strous appearance, or as decoys when they go to hunt animals, is uncertain. But it may be concluded that if tra- vellers or voyagers in an ignorant and credulous age, when many unnatural or marvellous things were supposed to exist, had seen a number of people decorated in this manner, without being able to approach so near as to be undeceived, they would readily have believed, and in their relations, would have attempted to make others believe, that there existed a race of beings partaking of the nature of man and beast ; more especially when, besides the heads of animals on the human shoulders, they might have seen the whole bodies of their men- monsters covered with quadrupeds' skins. The only dress amongst the people of Nootka observed by us that seems peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick leathern mantle doubled, which from its size ap})ears to be the skin of an elk or buffalo tanned. This they fasten on in the common manner ; and it is so contrived that it may reach up and cover the breast quite to the throat, falling at the same time almost to the heels. It is sometimes ingeniously painted in different com- partments, and is not only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed us by signs, even spears cannot pierce it, so that it may be considered as their coat of mau or most complete defensive armour. Upon the same occasion they some- times wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered with rows of dried hoofs of deer disposed horizontally, appended by leathern thongs covered with quills ; which when they move make a loud rattling noise, almost equal to that of many small bells. It seems doubtful, however, whether this part of their garb be intended to strike terror in war, or only is to be con- sidered as belonging to their eccentric ornaments on ceremonious occasions, for we saw one of their musical en- tertainments conducted by a man dressed in this sort of cloak, with hi3 mask on, and shaking his rattle. Though these people cannot be viewed without a kind of horror when equipped in such extravagant dresses, yet when divested of them and beheld in their common habit and actions, they have not the least appearance of ferocity in their countenances; and seem on the contrary, as observed already, to be of a quiet, phlegmatic, and inactive disposition, destitute in some measure of that degree of ani- mation and vivacity that would render them agreeable as social beings. If they are not reserved, they are far from being loquacious; but their gravity is peril aps rather a oonse- q^uence of the disposition just men- tioned than of any conviction of its propriety, or the effect of any parti- cular mode of education. For even in the greatest paroxysms of their rage they seem unable to express it sufficiently, either with warmth of language or significancy of gestures; Their orations, which are made either when engaged in any altercation or dispute, or to explain their sentimeuti 262 publicly on other occasions, seem little more than short sentences, or rather single words, forcibly repeated and constantly in one tone and degree of strength, accompanied only with a single gesture, which they use at every sentence, jerking their whole body a little forward by bending the knees, their arms hanging down by their sides at the same time. Though there be but too much reason, from their bringing to sale human skulls and bones, to infer that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal cruelty, this circum- stance rather marks a general agree- ment of character with that of almost every tribe of imcivilised man in every age and in every part of the globe, than that they are to be re- proached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. We had no reason to judge unfavourably of their disposi- tion in this respect. They seem to be a docile, courteous, good-natured people ; but, notwithstanding the pre- dominant phlegm of their tempers, quick in resenting what they look upon as an injury, and, like most other passionate people, as soon for- getting it. I never found that these fits of passion went further tlian the parties immediately concerned; the spectators not troubling themselves about the quarrel, whether it was with any of us or amongst their own body, and preserving as much indif- ference as il' they had not known any- thing about it. I have often seen one of them rave and scold, without any of his countrymen paying the least attention to his agitation, and when none of us could trace the cause or the object of his displeastiro. In such cases they never discover the least symptom of timidity, but seem deter- mined at all events to punish the insult. For even with respect to us they never appeared to be undei* the least apprehension of our superiority ; but, when any difference happened, were just as ready to avenge the wrong as amongst themselves. Their other passions, especially their curiosity, appear in some measure to lie dormant. For few expressed any COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III.B. IV.Cn.II. desiro to see or examine things wholly unknown to them, and which, to those truly possessed of that passion, would have appeared astonishing. They were always contented to pro- cure the articles they knew Cnd wanted, regarding everything else with great indifference; nor did our persons, apparel, and manners, so dif- ferent from their own, or even the extraordinary size and construction of our ships, seem to excite admiration or even engage attention. One cause of this may be their indolence, which seems considerable. But on the other hand they are certainly not wholly unsusceptible of the tender passions, if we may judge from their being so fond of music, which is mostly of the grave or serious but truly pathetic sort. Tlioy keep the exactest concert in their songs, which are often sung by great numbers together, as those already mentioned with which they used to entertain us in their canoes. These are generally slow and solenm ; but tlie music is not of that confined sort found amongst many rude nations, for the variations are very numerous and expressive, and the cadence or melody powerfully soothing. Besides their full concerts, sonnets of the same grave cast were frequently sang by single performers, who keep time by striking the hand against the thigh. However, the music was sometimes varied from its predomi- nant solemnity of air, and there were instances of stanzas being sung in a more gay and lively strain, and oven with a degree of humour. The only instruments of music (if such they may be called) which I saw amongst them were a rattle, and a small whistle, about an inch long, incapable of any variation, from having but one hole. They use the rattle when they sing; but upon wliat occasions they use the whistle I know not, unless it be when they dress themselves like particular am- mals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. I once saw one of them dressed in a wolf-skin, with the head over his own, and imitating that animal by making a squeaking noise Apmi 1778.] EAGERNESS TO POSSESS IRON AND BRASS. 263 with one of these whistles, which he had in his mouth. The rattles are for the most part made in the shape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly ; and the taU is the handle. They have others, however, that bear rather more resemblance to a child's rattle. In trafficking with us, some of them would betray a knavish disposition, and carry off our goods withoj^t making any return. But in general it was otherwise ; and we had abun- dant reason to commend the fairness of their conduct. However, their eagerness to possess iron and brass, and indeed any kind of metal, was so great, that few of them could resist the temptation to steal it whenever an opportunity offered. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, as appears from a variety of instances in the course of this voyage, rather than be idle, would steal anything that they eould lay their hands upon, without ever considering whether it could be of use to them or no. The novelty of the object with them was a suffici- ent motive for endeavouring by any indirect means to get possession of it ; which marked that in such cases they were rather actuated by a childish curiosity than by a dishonest disposi- tion, regardless of the modes of sup- plying real wants. The inhabitants of Nootka, who invaded our property, cannot have such apology made for them. They were thieves in the strictest sense of the word ; for they pilfered notliing from us but what they knew could be converted to the purposes of private utility, and had a real value according to their estima- tion of things. And it was lucky for us that hothing was thought valu- able by them but the single articles of our metals. Linen and such like things were perfectly secure from their depredations ; and we could safely leave them hanging out ashore all night without watching. The same principle which prompted our Nootka friends to pilfer from us, it was na- tural to suppose, would produce a similar conduct in their intercourse with each other. And accordingly we had abundant reason to believe, that stealing is much practised amongst them, and that it cniefly gives rise to their quarrels, of which we saw mors than one instance. CHAPTER III. Thb two towns or villages men- tioned in the course of my Journal seem to be the only inhabited parts of the sound. The number of in- habitants in both might be pretty exactly computed from the canoes that were about the ships the second day after our arrival. They amounted to about a hundred, which, at a very moderate allowance, must upon an average have held five persons each. But as there were scarcely any women, very old men, children, or youths amongst them at that time, I think it will rather be rating the number of the inhabitants of the two towns too low if we suppose they could be less than four times the number of our visitors, that is, 2000 in the whole. The village at the entrance of the sound stands on the side of a rising ground, which has a pretty steep ascent from the beach to the verge of the wood, in which space it is situated. The houses are disposed in three ranges or rows, rising gradually be- hind each other, the largest being that in front, and the others less; besides a few straggling or single ones at each end. These ranges are interrupted or disjoined at irregular distances by narrow paths or lanes that pass upward ; but those which run in the direction of the houses between the rows are much broader. Though there be some appearance of regularity in this disposition, there is none in the single houses ; for each of the divisions made by the paths may be considered either as one houa.) or as many, there beine no regular or complete separation ei^er wiuiout or within to distinguish them by. They are built of very long and broad planks, resting upon the edges of each other, fastened or tied by withes 264 of mii&-bark here and there, and have only slender posts, or rather poles, at considerable distances on the outside, to which they are also tied ; but within are some larger poles placed aslant. The height of the sides and ei'.ds of these habitations is seven or eight feet ; but the back part is a '.ittle higher, by which means the {)lank8 that compose the roof slant orward, and are laid on loose ko as to be moved about, either to be put close to exclude the rain, or in fair weather to be separated to let in the light and carry out the smoke. They are, how- ever, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, and constructed with little care or ingenuity. For though the side planks be made to fit pretty closely in some places, in others they are quite open ; and there are no regular doors into them, the only way of entrance being either by a hole, where the unequal length of the planks has accidentally left an open- ing ; or in some cases planks are maido to pass a little beyond each other, or overlap, about two feet asunder, and the entrance is in this space. There are also holes or win- dows in the sides of the houses to look out at, but without any regu- larity of shape or disposition ; and these have bits of mat hun^ before them to prevent the rain getting in. On the inside one may frequently see from one end to the other of these ranges of building without interrup- tion. For though in general there be the rudiments, or rather vestiges, of separations on each side for the accommodation of different families, they are such as do not intercept the sjght ; and often consist of no more than pieces of plank running from the side toward the middle of the house, so that, if they were com- plete, the whole might be compared to a long stable, with a double range of stalls, and a broad passage in the middle. Close to the sides, in each of these parts, is a little bench of boards, raised iive or six inches higher than the rest of the floor, and covered with mats, on which the family sit and sleep. These benches are commonly COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. ITl. B, IV. Ch. III. seven or eight feet long, and four or five broad. In the middle of the floor, between them, is the fireplace, which has neither hearth nor chimney. In one house, which was in the end of a middle r.inge, almost (luite separated from the rest by a high close parti- tion, and the most regular as to do- sign of any that I saw, there were four of these benches, each of which held a single family at a comer, but without any separation by boards; and the middle part of the house ap- peared common to them all. Their furniture consists chiefly of a great number of chests and boxes of all sizes, which are generally piled upon each other close to the sides or ends of the house, and contain their spare garments, skins, masks, and other things which they set a value upon. Some of these are double, or one covers the other as a lid ; others have a lid fastened with thongs ; and some of the very large ones have a square hole or scuttle cut in the upper part, by which the things are put in and taken out. They are often painted black, studded with the teeth of difl'er- ent animals, or carved with a kind of frieze- work, and figures of birds or animals, as decorations. Their other domestic utensils are mostly square and oblong pails or buckets to hold water and other things ; round wooden cups and bowls, and small shallow wooden troughs about two feet long, out of which they eat their food ; and baskets of twigs, bags of matting, &c. Their fishing iiu])lements and other things also lie or liang up in difl'ercnt {>art8 of the house, but without the east order, so that the whole is a complete scene of confusion ; and the only places that do not partake of this confusion are the sleeping-benches, that have nothing on them but the mats, which are mo cleaner or of a finer sort than those they commonly have to sit on in their boats. The nastiness and stench of their houses are, however, at least equal to the confusion. For as they dry their fish withindoors, they also gut them there ; which, with their bones and fragments thi'own down at meals, .and the addi- April 1778.] WOODEN tion of other aorts of filth, lie every- where in heaps, and are, 1 believe, never carried away till it becomes troublesome from their size to walk over them. In a word, ticir hou.ses are as lilthy a liog-sties; everything in and abuut i..em stinking of fiah, train-oil, and anioku. But amidst all the filth and confu- sion that are found in the houses, many of them are decorated with images. These are nothing more tlian the trunks of very large trees, four or five feet high, set up singly or by pairs at the upj)er end of the apartment, with the front carved into a human face, the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and variously painted ; so that the whole is a truly monstrous figure. The general name of these images is "klumma;" and the names of two particular ones, which stood abreast of each other, three or four feet asunder, in one of the hous(S, were "Natclikoa" and "Matseota." A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part hung before them, which the natives were not willing at all times to remove; and when they did unveil them they seemed to speak of them in a very mysterious manner. It should seem that they are at times accustomed to make offerings to them; if we can draw this inference fr'im their desir- ing ns, as we interpreted their signs, to give something to these images when they drew aside the mats that covered them. It was natural from these circumstances for us to think that they were representatives of their gods, or symbols of some religious or superstitious object; and yet we had proofs of the little real estimation thoy were in, for with a small quantity of iron or brass I could have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in the place. I did not see one t!iat was not offered to me ; and I actually got two or three of the very smallest sort. The chief employment of the men Beemsto be that of fishing, and killing land or sea animals, for the sustenance of their families, for we saw few of them doing aaything in the houses ; IMAGES. 26.5 whereas the women were occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen Sarments, and in preparing the sar- ines for drying, wnich they also carry up from the oeach in twig-baskets after the men have brought them in their canoes. The women are also sent in the small canoes to gather mussels and other shell- fish, and per- haps on some other occasions ; for thoy manage these with as much dex- terity as the men, wl o, when in the canoes with them, s ni to pay little attention to their sex by ollering to relieve them from tlio labour of the paddle, nor indeed do they treat them with any i-v. ticular respect or tender- ness in otiier situations. The young men appeared to be the most indolent or idle set in this community; for they were either sitting about in scat- tered companies to bask themselves in the sun, or lay wallowing in the sand upon the beach like a number of hogs, for the same purpose, without any covering. But this disregard of decency was confined to the men, The women were al lys properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost propriety, justly deserving all com- mendation for a bashfulness and mo- desty becoming their sex ; but more meritorious in them as the men seem to have no sense of shame. It is impossible, however, that wo should have been able to observe the exact mode of their domestic life and em- ployments from a single visit (as the first was quite transitory) of a few hours. For it may be easily supposed that on such an occasion most of the labour of all the inhabitants of the village would cease upon our arrival, and an interruption be given even to the usual manner of appearing in their houses during their more remiss or sociable hours, when left to them- selves. We were much better enabled to form some judgment of their dis- position, and in some measure even of their method of living, from the frequent visits so many of them paid us at our ships in their canoes ; in which, it should seem, they spend a great deal of time, at least in the fiumiuer season. For we observed 266 tlut they not only eat and sleep fre- quently in tbem, but strip off their olothea and lay themselves along to bask in the sun, in the same manner as we had seen practised at their village. Their canoes of the larger sort are, indeed, suiHciently spacious for that purpose, and perfectly dry; so that, imder shelter of a skin, they are, except in rainy weather, much more comfortable habitations than their houses. Though their food, strictly speak- ing, may bo said to consist of every- thing animal or vegetable that they can procure, the quantity of the latter bears an exceedingly small proportion to tliat of the former. Their greatest reliance seems to be upon the sea as affording hsh, mussels, and smaller shell-iish, and sea-animals. Of the first tlie principal are herrings and sar- dines, the two species of bream for- merly mentioned, and small cod. But tiie herrings and sardines are not only eaten fresli in their season, but like- Avise serve as stores which, after being dried and smoked, are preserved by being sewed up in mats, so as to form large bales three or four feet square. It seems that the herrings also supply them with another grand resource for food, which is a vast quantity of roe, very curiously prepared. It is strewed upon, or, as it were, incrustated about small branches of the Canadian pine. They also prepare it upon a long nar- row sea-grass which grows plentifully upon the rocks under water. This caviare, if it may be so called, is kept in baskets or bags of mat, and used occasionally, being first dipped in water. It may be considered as the winter bread of these people, and has no disagreeable taste. They also eat the roe of some other fish, which from the size of its grains must be very large, bnt it has a rancid taste and smell. It does not appear that they prepare any other fish in this manner to preserve them for any length of time. For though they split and dry a few of the bream and Chimwrce, which are pretty plentiful, they do not smoke them as the herrings and sor- dines. COOra VOYAOFA [VoY.tIT.n.!V.Cii.III. The next article on which they seem to depend for a large proportion of their food is the large mussel, groat abundance of which are found in the sound. These are roasted in their shells, then stuck upon long wooden skewers and taken oif occasionally as wanted, bein^ eaten without any other pre|)aration, though they often dip them m oil as a sauce. The other marine productions, such as the smal- ler shclI-fish, though they contribute to increase the general stock, are by no moans to be looked upon as a standing or material article of their food when compared to those just mentioned. Of the sea-animals the most common that we saw in use amongst them as food it the porpoise, the fat or rind of which, as well 03 the flesh, they cut in large pieces, and having dried th<'m as they do the herrings, eat them without any fur- ther preparation. They also prepare a sort of broth from this animal in its fresh state in a singular manner, put- ting pieces of it in a square wooden vcssof or bucket with water, and then throwing heated stones into it. This operation they repeat till they think the contents are sufficiently stewed or seethed. They put in the fresh and take out the otL .r stones with a cleft stick, which serves as tongs, the ves- sel being always placed near the fire for that purpose. This is a pretty common disn amongst them, and from its appearance seems to be strong nourishing food. The oil which they procure from these and other sea- animals is also used by them in gicat quantities, both supping it alone with a lar^e scoop or spoon made of horn, or mixing it with other food as sauce. It may also be presumed that they feed upon other soa-animals, such as seals, sea-otters, and whales ; not only from the skins of the two first being frequent amongst them, but from the great nivmber jf implements of all sorts intended tadestroy these different animals, which cleoily points out their dependence upon them. Though per- haps they do not catch them in gicat plenty at all seasons, which seemed to- be the case while we lay thci-e, us AfpiLl778,] MANNER OF PI? no great number of frosh skins or pieces of the llcsh were seen. The sumo niif^ht perhaps be said of the Innd-aniiaalfl, whicn, though doubt- less tlio natives sometimes kill them, appeared to bo suarce at tliis time, ns we did not see a single piece of the flesh belonging to any oi them; and though their skii.s be in tolerable plenty, it is probable that many of these are procured by trafllc from other tribes. Upon the wliolo, it seems plain from a variety of circumstances that these people procure almost all their animal food from the sea, if wo except a few birds, of which the gulls or sea-fowl, which they shoot with their arrows, are the most material. As the Canadian pine-branches and sea-gross on which the fish-roe is strewed may be considered as their only winter vegetables, so pi the spring advances they make ust of several others as they come in season. The most common of these which we observed were two sorts of liliaceous roots, one simply tunicated, the otlur granulated upon its surface, called " mahkatte " and "' koohquoppu," which have a mild sweetish taste, and are nmcilaginous and eaten raw. The next which they have in great quan- tities is a root called "aheita, ' re- sembling in taste our liquorice, and another fern root whose leaves were not yet disclosed. They also eat raw another small, sweetish, insipid root about the thickness of 8arsa])arilla, but we were ignorant of the plant to which it belongs ; and also of another root, which is very large and palmated, which we saw them dig up near the village anl afterward eat it. It is also prob tble that as the season ad- vances they have many others which we did rtot see. For though there be no appearance of cultivation amongst them, there are great quantities of alder, gooseberry, and currant-bushes, whose fruit they may eat in their natural state, as we have seen them eat the leaves of the last, and of the lilies, just as they were plucked from the plant. It must, however, be olwerved that one of the coiulitions which they ceem to require iv all food is, that it EPARINO FOOD. 267 should be of the bland or less acrid kind ; for they woyld not cat the leek or garlic, though they brought vast quantities to sell when they undor« stood we were fond of it. Indeed they seemed to have no relish for any of our food ; and when offered spiritu- ous liquora, they rejected them as something unnatural and disgusting to the palate. Though they sometimes eat small marine-animals, in their fresh state, raw, it is their common practice to roa.st or broil their food ; for they are quite ignorant of our method of boil- ing, unless we allow that of prepar- ing their porpoise broth is sucli ; and indeed their vessels, being all of wood, are quite insuflicient for this purpose. Their manner of eating is exactly con- sonant to the nostiness of their houses and persons ; for the troughs and platters in which they put their food appear never to have been washed from the time they were first made, and the dirty remains of a former meal are only swept away by the succeeding one. They also tear everything solid or tough to pieces with their hands and teeth ; for though they make use of their knives to cut off the larger portions, they have not as yet thought of reducing these to smaller pieces and mouth fuls by the same means, 'hough obviously more convenient and cleanly. But they seem to have no idea of cleanliness ; for they eat the roots which they dig from the ground without so much as shaking off the soil that adheres to them. We are uncertain if they have any set time for meals ; for we have seen them eat at all hours in their canoes. And yet, from seeing several messes of the por- poise broth preparing towards noon, when we visited the village, I should suspect that they make a principal meal about that time. Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short trunclieons of bone somewhat like the "patoo patoo " of New Zealand, and a small pick -axe not unlike the common American tomahawk. The spear has generally a long point made of bone. Some of the arrows are pointed with iron; but 268 most commonly their points were of indented bone. The tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, point- ed at one end, and the other end fixed intv> a handle of wood. This handle resembles the head and neck of the human figure ; and the stouo is fixed in the mouth, so as to repre it an enormously largo tongue. To mako the resamblanco still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. Tina weapon they call "taaweesh" or "tsu keeal'" They have another stone weapon called ".seeaik," nine inches or a foot long, with a sii'iaro point. From the num- ber of stono weapons and others, wo might almost conclude that it is their cu' com to engage in close fight ; and we had too convincing ])roof8 that their wars are both fre([uent and bloody, from the vast numlier of human skulls which they brought to sell. Their manufactures and mechanic arts are far more extensive and ingeni- ous, wliether we regard the design or the e.xecution, th.tn could have been exiwcted from the natunil dis- position of the peo])lo and the little progress that civilisation has made amongst them in other respects. The flaxen and woollen girments witli which they cover themselves nmst necessarily engage their first care, and are the most material of those that can be ranked under the head of manu- factures. The former of these arc made of the bark of a pine-tree, beat into a hempen state. It is not spun, but after being properly jircnared is spread upon a sticK which is fastened across to two others that stand upright. It is disposed iu such a manner thrt the manufacturer, who bits on her hams at this simple machine, knots it across with small ]ilaited threads at the dis- tance of half-an-inch from each other. Though by this lai-tliod it bo not so close or finn as cloth that is woven, tho bunches betwoea the knots make it Bufliciently impervious to the air, by filMng tiie interstices , and it has th« additional advantage of being softer and more pliable. The woollen fmi'mcnta, thougn ,irobably manufac- turud iu the kuu« maiiuur, have tho COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. TIT. K IV. Cir. III. strongest resemblance to woven cloth* IJut tiie various figures which are very artil'cially inserted iu them destroy the supposition of their being wrought in a loom ; it being extremely unlikely that these people should be so dex- terous as to be able to finish such a complex work unless immediately by their hands. They are of different degrees of fineness ; some resembling our coarsest rugs or blankets, and others almost era't reprc- sentiitiou is that of tho human face, which ia often cut out upon birds, and tho other monstrous figures men- tioned before, and even upon their stone and tlieir bono wcaj)ons. The general design of all these things is perfectly sutlieient to convey a knov- Icdgo of the object they are intended to rej)re.sent; but tho carv'ng is not executed with tho nicety that a dex- terous artist would bestow even upon an indifferent design. The same, however, cannot bo said of many of tho human masks and heads, whore they show theinsclvcH to bo ingenious 8cul|)t()rs. Tiny not only preserve with exactness tho general cfsnractor of their own faces, but finish tho more minute parts with a degree of accuracy iu t)roportiou and ncatucina Iu exuua- Awiii. 1778.] NATIVE CANOES tion. The strong propensity of this 2fl9 I people to works of tliis sort is remark- able, in a vast variety of particulars. Small whole human figures ; repre- sentations of birds, *ish, and land and sea animals ; models of their house- hold utensils, and of their canoes, were found amongst them in great abundance. The imitative arts being nearly allied, no wonder that to their skill ill working figures in their garments and carving them in wood, they should add that of drawing them in colours. Wo have sometimes seen the whole process of their whale- fishery ])ainted on the ca])s they wear. This, though rudely executed, serves at least to show that though tiicra bo no appearance of the knowledge of letters amongst them, they hare some notion of a metliod of commemorating and representing actions in a lasting way, indepenilently of what may be reiorded in their songs and traditions. They have also other figun s painted oil some of their tilings ; but it '.s diiubtful if they ought to be considered as symbols that have certain estalilish- ed significations, or only the mere creatiou of fancy and caprice. Their canoes are of a simjilo strui!- tuio, but, toap|>earance, well calculated for every useful purpose. Even the larg« .,, >/liich caiTv .,w, nty people or more, arc forn.ed of . nc tree. Many of them ere fortj feet long, seven broad, an(' about three deep. Froir the middle t,ow;irds each end they become gradually narrower, the after- part or stern ending abruntlv or per- pendicularly, with a small knob on the toji ; but the forepart is lengthened out, stretching forwards and upwards, ending in a notched point, or prow, considerably higher than the sides of the (rnnoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For the most part they Bvo witliout any ornament, but some have a little carving, and are dccorMtod by setiing seals' teeth on the surface, like studs; as is the practice on their ma.sks and weapons. A few have likewise a kind of ndditi(mal head or prow, like a large cutwater, wMch is paiutod with the ligur i of son.o aui- mal. They have no seats, nor any other 8U|>i)orter.s on the inside than several round sticks, little thicker than a cane, placed across at mid depth. They are very light, and their breadth and flatness enable them to swim firmly without an outrigger, which none of them have ; a remarkable distinction between the navigation of all the Ame- rican nations, and that of the Southern paits of the East Indies and the islands in t) e Pacific Ocean. Their i)addles are .^ur.W and light ; the shape in some meuiUire resembling that of a large leaf pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, and gradually losing itself in the shaft, the whole being about five feet long. Tiiey have acrjuired great dexterity in manoging these poddies by constant use ; for sails arc no part of their art of navigation. Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both ingeniously contrived and well made, are nets, hooks and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an instrument like an oar. This hint is about twenty feet long, four or five inciies broad, and about balf-an-inch thick. Each edge, for about two- thirds of its length (tlie otlier third being its handle), is set with sharp bono teeth abont two inches long. Herrings and sardines, and such other small fish lus come in shoals, ar>' at- tacked with this instrument, which in struck into the shoal, and the fish are caught either upon or between the teetli. Their hooks are made of bone and wood, and rather inartifise that they shoot the smaller sorts with their arrows, and (mgage bears or wolves and foxes with their spears. They have, indeed, several nets, which are probably applied to that purpose, as they frequently threw them over their heads, to show their use, when they brought them to us for sale. They also sometimes decoy animals by covering themselves with a aKin, and running about upon all fours, which they do very nimbly, as appeared from the specimens of their skill which they exhibited to us, making a kind of noise or neighing at the same time ; and on these occasions the masks, or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads, of the different animals are put on. As to the materials of which they make their various articles, it is to be observed that everything of the rope kind is formed either from thongs of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same Uaxen substance of which their mantles are manufactured. The sinews often appeared to be of such a length, that it might be presumed they could be of no other animal than the whale. And the same may be said of the bones of which they make their weapons already merstioned ; such as tneir bark -beating instru- ments, the points of their spears, and the barbs ot their hart)oons. Their great dexterity in works of wood may in some measure be ascribed to the assistance they receive from iron tools. For as far as we know they use no other ; at least we saw only one chisel of bone. And though ori- ginally their tools must have been of different materials, it is not impro- bable that many of their improve- ments have been mad(! since they acquired a knowledge of that metal, which is now universally used in their various wooden works. The chisd and the knife are the only forms, as far as wo saw, that iron a.s.sunie3 amongst them. The chisel is a long flat piece fitted into a iiandle of wood. A stone serves for a mallet, and a piece of fish skin for a polisher. 1 have seen some of these chisels that were eight COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. IV. Crt. III. or ten inches long, and three or four inches broad ; but in general they were smaller. The knives are of varions sizes ; some very large ; and their blades are crooked, Koniewhat like our prniiing-knife, but the edge is on the back or convex part. Most of them that we saw were about the breadth and thickness of an iron hoop ; and their singular form marks that they are not of European make. Probably they are imitations of th«tir own ori- ginal instruments used for the same purposes. They sharpen the,se iron tools upon a coarse slate whetstoise, and likewise keep the whole instru- meni constantly bright. Iron, which they call "seekemaile" (which name they also give to tin and all white metals), being familiar to these people, it was very nctural for us to speculate about the mode of its being convt^yed to them. LTj)on our arrival in the sound they immediately uiscovered a knowletlge of traffic and an inclination for it, and we were con- vinced afterwai-ds that they had not received this knowledge from a cursory interview with any strangers ; but, from their rnetliod, it sftemcd to be an established practice of which they were fond, and in which they were also wall skilled. With whom they carry on this traffic, may perhaps ad- mit of some doubt For though we found amongst them things doubtless of European manufacture, or at least derived from some civilised nation, such as iron and hi ass, it by no means appears that they receive them imme- diately from these nations. For we never observed the least sign of their having seen ships like ours before, nor of their having tradal with such people. Many circumstances serve to prove this almost beyond a doubt. They were earnest in their inquiries, by signs, on our arrival, if we meant to settle amongst them, and if we came us friciuis ; signifying, at the same time, thai, they gave the wood and water freely, fmni iriendship. This not only proves that they considered the place as entirely their property, without fearingany superiority ;but the inquiry would have been an unnatural I ■MHHIMiiMa ArniM778.] TTTEIK one, on a supposition that any ships bad been here before, had trafficked ami suppl ied themselves with wood and water, lud had tiieu departed ; for in that case they might reasonably expect we would do the same. They indeed •xpressed no marka of surprise at see- ing our ships. But this, as I observed before, may be imputed to their natural indolence of temper and want of curi- osity. Nor were they even startled at the report of a musket ; till onij day, upon their endeavouring to maVe \\z sensible that their arrows and spears could not penetrate the hide dresses, one of our gentlemen shot a musket ball through one of them folded six times. At this tliey were so much staggered that thoy plainly discovered their ignorance of the ejiect of firo- ftrauu This was very often confinned afterwards, when wo used them at their village and other places to shoot birds, the manner of which plainly confounded them ; and our explana- tions of tiie use of shot and ball were received with the most significant marks of their having no previous ideas on this matter. Some accounts of a Spanish voyage to this coast in 1774 or 1775 had reuohe'l finf^land before I sailed, but the foregoing circumstances sufD- ciontly prove that these shiiw had not been at Nootka.* Besides tliis, it was evident that iron was too common hero, was in too many hands, and the uses, of it were too well known for them to liave had the first knowl« conjecture was well founded. It ap- ]>eai-3 from the Journal of this Voyage, alreaosed to come from some couHtant source by way of traffic, and that not of a veiy late date, for they are as dexterous in using their toofa as the longest practice can make them. The most probable way, there- fore, by which wecan suppose that they get their iron, is by trading for it with other Indian tribes, who either have immediate communication with Euro- pean settlements upon the continent, or receive it perhaps through several intermediate nations. The same might be said of the brass and copper found amongst them. Whether these things be introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada from the Indiana who deal with our traders, and so successively across from one tribe to the other, or whether they he brought from the north-westeru partaof Mexico in the same manner, perhaps cannot be easily determined. But it should seem that not oi>ly the rude materials, but some artictjs in their roanufnc* tureti state, find their way hither. 'Ilhe brass ornaments for noses, in par- ticular, are so neatly made that I am doubtful whether the Indiana are capable of fai^ricating them, Tlie motcrialH certainly are European, aa no American tribes have been found who knew the method of making brass ; though copper has been com- monly met with, and from 'ts softnese might bo fashioned into any shaite, ami also polished. If our traders to Hudson's Bay and Canada do mt use such articles in their traffic with the natives, they must liave been intro- dui'wl at Nodtka from the quarter of hl'^xico, whence no doubt the two silver *«blo-8poous met with here were originally derived. It is most prob. able, liowever, that the Spaniards are not .such eager t nulera, nor nave formed M\ich extciisivo connections with ths tribes noiUi of Mexico as to supply them with quantitios of iron, from which they can jpare so much to the pooplo hero.' ' Though the tw>) silver tablo-snoona found at Nootka Sound mn.st probably came from the Spanianl.'? in tho south. 272 COOK'S y Of the politjca! and religious insti- tutions cstablislied amongst them, it cannot be supposed that we should loani much. '1 his we could observe, that there are such men as cliiofs who are distinpuishod by the name or title of " acweek," and to whom the others .iro in some measure subordinate. But I should guess the authority of each of these great men extends no further than the family .o which he belongs, and who own Iiim as their liead. These " acweeks " were not always elderly men, from which I con- cluded that this title came to them by inheritance. I saw nothing that could give the least insight into their notions of religion besides the figures before uiontioncd, called by them •*klun)ma," Most probably these were idols; but a.s they frequently mentioned the word " acweek ' when they spoke of them, we may perhaps bo authorised to .suppose that they are the images of some of their ances- tors, whom they venerate as divini- ties. But all this is more conjecture, for wo saw no act of religious homage paid to thorn, nor could we gain any information, as wo had learned little more of tlio language than to ask the names of things, without being abii to hold any conversation with the natives that might instruct na oa to their institutions and traditions. CH.-VPTER IV. Havtno put to sea op the erening of the 26th, as before reuted, with gtmng^ signs of m apr ■• -j-r storm, those signs did i.ot nn. "VVe wen; hardly out of the e».und before th» wind in an iisstant shifted from NE there seem to be sufBcwnt (rrnunds for believing that the rcirnlar sapplj of iron comes from a diH'erent quarter. It is remarkable that t.lie Sfmniarda, in 1775, found at Puerto do la Trini- dad, in Latitude 41° 7', arrows poinicd with copper or iron, wliidi they under- stood were procured (ion; the north. --Note i7i Original MaUio.i. OYAGES. {Toy. III. B. IV. Ch. TV. to SE. by E, and increased to a strong ^■.•'le, with squalls and rain, and so dark a sky that we could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehen- sive, from the experience I had since our arrival on tliis coast, of the wind veering more to the S., which would ])ut us in diinger of a lee-shore, we got the tacks on board, and stretched off to the SW. under all the sail ♦'^« ships could bear. Fortunately the wind veered no farther southerly than SE., so that at daylight the next morning we were quite clear of the coast. The Discovery being at some dis- tance astern, I brought to till she came up, and then boro away, steer- ing NW., in which direction I sup- posed the coast to lie. The wind was at SE., blew very hard and in squalls, with thick hazy weather. At half- past one in the afternoon it blew a Eerfect hurricane, so that I judiig to t^ mtor not findn^ im-wmf^ tlie -mmim thtoiq^ the «■■■' Ikit li^ in m of tlMfVH^ for altar ^ ; : was baki m^ whisb em- nlasTOd us tiil miihMgli^ aad had fontid its way di ie«lh ft w 1fc«l*ak to the pumps, it apri«tu«i tiHtvae {lump kept r«n^«8 no small satiHi. resmig the wind veered to the ^ , ani its fury in some degree ccjised. Ch. this we set 'he mainsail and two topsails clow -re> Itu, anart I give no credit to such vague and improbable stories that carry their o»u confutation ahni^ with them. Nevertheless I was very desirous of keeping the American coast aboard in order to clear up this point beyond dispute. But it would have been highly imprudent in me to have en- gaged with the land in weather so exceedingly tempestuous, or to have lost the advantage of a fair wind by waiting for better weather. This same day at noon we were in the ^ As in the i-emaining part of this Book, the latitude ami longitude aro very frequently set down, the for- mer being invariably north and the latter east, the constant rejwtition of the two x^ords norttt and east has been omitted, * Cook was in fact at this time passing the mouth of Dixon's Chan- mtL, between Qup«n Charlotte's iHlaud adth) '■ -1. .'.if Wiiles's Arciiii>«iiif(o, ■.genu . iinationof whicii, aixl «C the ntunenms channels neai kave gi^w the foundation fo ri( Iculons fables told »n his name in 1708, Tumrly w"-ent> yeam after the alleged date of iuis •. oyage, by a " seu- ■atioual " liteiaiy uuck iu London. COAST OP AMEIilOA. 273 latitude of 53" 22', and in the Longi- tude of 225" U'. The next morning, being the 1st of May, seeing nothing of the land, 1 steered north-easterly, with a fresh breeze at S8E. and S., with squalls and showers of rain and hail. Our I..atitude at noon was 64° 43', and our Longitude 224° 44'. At seven in the evening, being in the Latitude of 55° 20', wo got sight of the land, extend- ing from NNL. to E. or E. by S, about twelve or fourteen leagues distant. An hour after, I steered N. by W. ; and at fotir the next morning the coast was seen from N. by W. to SK., the nearest part about six leagues distant. At this time the northern point of an inlet, or what appeared to be one, boro E. by S. It lies in tho Latitude of 56°; and from it to the northward the coast seemed to be much broken, forming bays and har- bours every two or three leagues, or else appearances much deceived us. At 6 o clock, drawing nearer the land, I steered NW. by N., this being the direction of the coast, having a hanh pile at SE., with some showers of hail, snow, and sleet, -'otween 11 ani. 30° £., nineteen leagues distant. This mountain lies twelve leagues inland, in the Latitude of 60° 27', and in the Longituoe uf 219°. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly high moun- tains, that may be reckoned a con- tinuation of the former, as they are only divided from them by the plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the west as the Longitude of 217°, where, although they do not end, they lose much of their height, and become more broken and divided. At noon on the 10th our Latitude was I'O" 51', and our Longitude 215° 66', being no more than three leagues from tht! roast of the continent, which eKtendod from E. half N. to NW. hall W., as far as the eye could reach. To the westwartl of this last direction was an islaud that extended from N. 62' W. to H. 86° W., distant six loagucs. A point .% ^i J %:^J> .'>"" > <^ ijV y ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation •i3 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 Ci; c."..'^./^ ^> <»' *, «i^^* iS" 1^ <^ .'^O \ ^ .<^ 280 COOK'S V they met with was the rudder of one of the boats, which they threw over- board to those of their partj' who had remained in the canoes. Before they had time to find another object that pleased their fancy, the crew were alarmed, and began to come upon deck armed with cutlasses. On see- ing this, the whole company of plun- derers sneaked ofif into their canoes with as much deliberation and indif- ference as they had given up the boat ; and they were observed describing, to those who had not been on board, now much longer the knives of the ship's crew were than their own. It was at this time that my boat was on the sounding duty, which they must have seen, for they proceeded directly for her after their disappointment at the Discovery. I have not the least doubt that their visiting us so very early in the morning was witli a view to plunder, on the supposition that they should find everybody asleep. May we not from these circumstances reasonably infer that these people are unac- quainted with fire-arms? For cer- tainly, if they had known anything of their efiect, they never would have dared to attempt taking a boat from under .. ship's guns in the face of above 100 men ; for most of my people were looking at them at the very in- stant they made the attempt. How- ever, after all these tricks, we had the ^ood fortime to leave them as ignorant m this respect as we found them ; for they neither heard nor saw a musket fired unless at birds. Just as we were going to weigh the anchor to proceed farther up the bay, it began to blow and to rain as hard as before, so that we were obliged to veer away the cable again and lay fast. Towards the evening, finding that the gale did not moderate, and that it might be some time before an oppor- tunity offered to get higher up, I came to a resolution to heel the ship where we were ; and with this view moored her with a kedge-anchor and hawser. In heaving the anchor out of the boat, one of the seamen, either through ignor- ance or carelessness, or both, was car- ried overboard by the buoy-rope, and OYAGES. [VoY.IIT.B IV.Ch.IV. followed the anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable that in this very critical situation he had presence of mind to disengage himself, and come up to the surface of the water, where he was taken up with one of his legs fractured in a dangerous manner. Early the next morning we gave the ship a good heel to port, in order to come at and stop the leak. On ripping oQ" the sheathing, it was found to be in the seams, which were very open both in and under the wale ; and in several places not a bit of oakum in them. While the carpenters were making; good these defects, we filled all our empty water-casks at a stream hard by the ship. The wind was now moder- ate, but the weather was thick and hazy, with rain. The natives, who left us the preceding day, when the bad weather came on, paid us another visit this morning. Those who came first were in small canoes ; others afterwards arrived in large boats, in one of which were twenty women and one man, besides children. In the evening of the 16th the weather cleared up, and we then found ourselves surrounded on every side by land. Our station was on the east side of the sound, in a place which in the chart is distinguished by the name of Snug Corner Bay. .Ajid a very snug place it is. I went, accom- panied by some of the officers, to view the head of it ; and we found that it was sheltered from all winds, with a depth of water from seven to three fatnoms over a muddy bottom. The land near the shore is low, part clear and part wooded. The clear ground was covered two or three feet tuick with snow, but very little lay in the woods. The very summits of the neighbouring hills were covered with wood, but those farther inland seemed to be naked rocks buried in snow. The leak being stopped, and the sheathing made good over it, at 4 o'clock in the morning of the 17th we weighed and Hteered to the north- westward, with a light breeze at SNE., thinking if there ' hould be any pass- age to the north through this inlet that it must be in that direction. At a Mat 1778.] PRINCE WILLIAM'S SOUND. 281 len^h, about 1 o'clock, with the assistance of our boats, we got to an anchor under the eastern sliore in thirteen fathoms water, and about four leagues to the north of our last station. In the morning the weather had been very hazy, but it afterwards cleared up so as to give us a distinct view of all the lane' round us, parti- cularly to the northward, where it seemed to close. This left us but little hopes of finding a passage that way, or indeed in any other direction, without putting out again to sea. To enable me to form a better judg- ment, I despatched Mr Gore with two armed boats to examine the northern arm, and the master with two other boats to examine another arm that seemed to take an easterly direction. Late in the evening they both returned. The master reported that the arm he had been sent to communicated with that from which he had last come, and that one side of it was only formed by a group of islands. Mr Gore in- formed me that he had seen the en- trance of an arm which, he was of opinion, extended a long way to the north-east, and that probably by it a Eassage might be found. On the other and, Mr Roberts, one of the mates whom I had sent with Mr Gore to sketch out the parts they had ex- amined, was of opinion that they saw the head of this arm. The disagree- ment of these two opinions, and the circumstance already mentioned of the flood-tide entering the sound from the south, rendered the existence of a passage this way very doubtful. And as the wind in the morning had be- come favourable for getting out to sea, I resolved to spend no more time in searching for a passage in a place that promised so little success. Besides this, I considered that if the land on the west should prove to be islands, agreeably to the late Russian dis- coveries, we could not fail of getting far enough to the north, and tliat in good time, provided we did not lose the season in searching places where a passage wa.m we had lately visited had no reason that I know of to dislike our company. These people must be the Tschutski ; a nation that, at the time Mr MuUer wrote, the Russians had not been able to conquer. And from the whole of their conduct with us tt appears that they have not as yet brought them under subjection ; though iljis obvious that they must have a trade with the Russians, either directly or by means of some neighbouriug nation, as we cannot otherwise account for their being in possession of the spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice. This Bay of St Laurence > is at least five leagues broad at the entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing to- ward the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds, provided there be sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not wait to examine it, although I was very desirous of finding an harbour in those parts to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one where wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found here. From the south point of this bay, which lies in the Latitude of 65° 30', the coast trends W. by S. for about nine leases, and there forms a deep bay or nver ; or ebe the land there is so low that we could not see it. At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what was first taken for a rock ; but it proved to be a dead whale, which some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed and were tow- ^ Captain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it on St Laurence's day, August 10. It is remarkable that Behring sailed past this very place on the 10th of August 1728 ; on which account the neighboiuing island was named by him after the same saint — NoU in Original Edi- tion, Sept. 1778.] REMARKS ON BEHRTNG'S VOYAGE. 289 ing ashore. They seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish to avoid being seen by us. Tliis was unneces- saiy ; for we pursued our course with- out taking any notice of them. At daybreak on the 4th I hauled to the NW., in order to get a nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day ; but the wind soon after veering to that direction I gave up the design, and, steering to the southward along the coast, passed two bays, each about two leagues deep. The northernmost lies before a hill which is remarkable by being rounder than any other upon the coast; and there la an island lying before the other. It may be doubted whether there be a sufficient depth for ships in either of these bays, as we always met with shoal water when we edged in for the shore. The country here is exceedingly hilly and naked. In several places on the low ground next the sea were the dwell - mgs of the natives : and near all of them were erected stages of bones, such as before described. These may be seen at a great distance on account of their whiteness. At noon the Lati- tude was 64° 38' and the Longitude 188° 15' ; the southernmost point of the main in sight bore S. 48° W., and the nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. B^ this time the wind had veered again to the N., and blew a gentle breeze. The weather was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the coast, aa I found that it took fa westerly direction toward the Gulf of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the southward, in order to get a sight of the Island of St Laurence, discovered by Behring ; which accordingly showed itself, and at 8 o'clock in the evening it bore S. 20° E., by estimation, eleven leagues distant. At the same time the south- ernmost point of the mainland bore S. 83° W., distant twelve leagues. I take this point to be the point which Behring calls the East Point of Su- chotski, or Cape Tschukotskoi; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it was from this part of the coajst that the natives came off to him who called themselves of the nation of the Tschutaki. I make its Latitude to be 64° 13' and its Longitude 186* 36'. In justice to the memory of Beh- ring, I must say that he has delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude of the points better than could, be expected from the methods he had to go by. This judgment is not formed from Mr Muller's account of the voyage, or the chart prefixed to his book ; but from Dr Campbell's account of it in his edition of Harris's Collection, and a map thereto annexed, which is both more circumstantial and accurate than that of Mr Muller. The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast of Asia, the more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr Stsehlin's map of the Nevv Northern Archipelago with my observations ; and I nad no way to account for the great difference, but by supposing that I had mistaken some part of what he calls the Island of Alashka for the American contin- ent, and had missed the channel that separates them . Admitting even this, there would still have been a consider- able difference. It was with me a matter of some consequence to clear up this point the present season, that I might have but one object in view the next. And, as these northern isles are represented by him as abound* ing with wood, I was in hopes, if I should find them, of getting a supply of that article, which we now began to be in great want of on board. With these views I steered over for the American coast, and at five in the afternoon the next day b .viand bearing three-quarters E., which we took to be Anderson's Island or some other land near it, and therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the morning, we got sight ' ' the Ameri- can coast near Sledge Island ; and at six the same evening this island bore N. 6' E., ten leagues distant, and the easternmost land in sight N. 49° E. If any part of what I had supposed to be American coast could possibly be the Island of Alashka, it was that now before us ; and in that case I must T m COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.TTI.B.IV.Cu.V. have missed the channel between it and the main, by steering to the west instead of the east after wo first foil in with it. I was not, therefore, at a loss where to go in order to clear up these doubts. At eight in the evening of the 7th we had got close in with the land, Sledgo Island bearing N. 85° W., eight or nine leagues distant ; and the eastern part of the coast N. 70° E., with high land in the direction of E. by N., seemingly at a great dis- tance beyond the pomt At this time we saw a light ashore, and two canoes filled with people coming off toward us. I brought to, that they might have time to come up. But it was to no purpose ; for, resisting all the signs of triendship we could exhibit, they kept at a distance of a quarter of a n)ile, so that we left them and pur- sued our course along the coast. At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water shoal pretty fast, we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where h's lay until daylight, and then resi'.med our course along the coast, './.lich we found to trend E. and E. half S. At seven in the evening we were abreast of a point lying in the Latitude of 64° 21', and in the Longitude of 197° ; beyond which the coast takes a more northerly direc- tion. At eight this point, which obtained the name of Cape Darby, bore S. 62° W. ; the northernmost land in sight, N. 32° E. ; and the nearest shore three miles distant. In this situation we anchored in thir- teen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. Next morning atdaybreakweweigh- ed and sailed along the coast. Two islands, as we supposed them to be, were at this time seen ; the one bear- ing S. 70° E. and the other E. Soon after, we found ourselves upon a coast covered with wood ; an agreeable sight, to which of late we had not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, we raised land in the direction of NE. half N., which proved to be a continuation of the coast we were upon. We also saw high land over the islands, seemingly at a good dis- tance beyond them. This was thought to be the continent, and the other land the Island of Alashka. But it was already doubtful whether we should find a passage between them ; for the water shoaled insensibly as we advanced farther to the north. In this situation, two boats were sent to sound before the ships ; and I ordered the DiscoveiT to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel between the coast on our larboard and the northernmost island on our starboard. Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon, when, having passed the island, we had not more than three fathoms and a half of water ; and the Resolution at one time brought the mud up from the bottom. More water was not to be found in any pi.rt of the channel ; for, with the ships and boats, we had tried it from side to side. I therefore thought it high time to return, espe- cially as the wind was in such a quarter that we must ply back. But what I dreaded most was the wind increasing, and raising the sea into waves, so as to put the ships in dan- f[tir of striking. At this time a head- and on the west shore, which ia distinguished by the name of Bald Htad, bore N. by W., one league distant. The coast beyond it extend- ed as far as NE. by N., where it seemed to end in a point, behind which the coast of the high land, seen over the islands, stretched itself ; and some thought they could trace where it joined. On the west side of Bald Head the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw a number of huts or habitations of the natives. Having continued to ply back all night, by daybreak the next morning we had got into six fathoms water. At 9 o'clock, being about a league from the west shore, I took two boats and landed, attended by Mr King, to seek wood and water. We landed where the coast projects out into a bluff head, composed of perpendicular strata of a rock of a dark blue colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. There joins to the beach a naiTow border of land, now covered with long grass, where we met with some Angel- Bbpt. 1778.] OFF CAPE DENnTOH. 291 in the ica. Beyond this the ground rises abruptly. At tlie top of this elevation wo found a heath auounding with a variety of berries ; and farther on the country was level, and thinly covered with small spruce trees and birch and willows no bigger than broom stuff. We observed tracks of deer and foxes on the beach, on which also lay a groat quantity of drift-wood ; and tliore waa no want of fresh water. I returned on board with an intention to bring the ships to an anchor here ; but the wind then veering to NE., which blew rather on this shore, I stretched over to the opposite one in the expectation of finding wood there also, and anchored at 8 o clock in the evening under the south end of the northernmost island. So we then supposed it to be ; but next morning we found it to be a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side of "hich the coast forms a bay. \> o ^aod into the southern- most, and about noon anchored in fivi, i.thoms water, over a bottom of mud ; the point of the peninsula, which obtained the name of Cape Denbigh, bearing N. 68° W., three miles distant. Several people were seen upon the peninsula ; and one man came off in a small canoe. I gave him a knife and a few beads, with which he seemed well pleased. Having made signs to him to bring us something to eat, he immediately left us and paddled toward the shore. Bat meeting another man coming off, who happened to have two dried sal- mon, he got them from him, and on returning to the ship would give them to nobody but me. Some of our people thought that he asked for me under the name of "Capitane ;" but in this they were probably mistaken. He knew who had given him the knife and beads, but I do not seer how he could know that I was the captain. Others of the natives soon after came off, and exchanged a few dry fish for such trifles as they could get or we had to give them. They were most desirous of knives ; and they had no dislike to tobacco. \fter -diuner Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, to see if wood and water were there to be got, or rather water, for the whole beach round the bay seemed to be covered with drift-wood. At the same time a boat was sent from each ship to sound round the bay ; and at three in the afternoon, the wind freshening at NE., we weighed in order to work farther in. But it was soon found to bo impossible, on account of the shoals, which extended quite round the bay to the distance of two or three miles from the shore, as the officers who had been sent to sound reported. We therefore kept standing off and ou with the ships, waiting for Mr Gore, who returned about r ' lock with the launch laden with wooa le reported that there was but little i^esh water ; and that wood was di. fie alt to be got at, by reason of ^i ^ bopt groundiii.j at some distance .. om tlie beac^' This being the caso, I stood i.aik to the other shore ; and at 8 ^ 'flock the next morning sent >.ii tlie boats and a party of men. with an officer, to f;et wood from the place v.Lere I had anded two days before. We con- tinued for a while to stand on and off with the ships, but at length camo to an anchor in one-fourth less than five fathoms, half-a-league from the coast, the south point of which bore S. 26° W., and Bald Head N. 60° E., nine leagues distant. Cape Denbigh bore S. 72° E., twenty-six miles distant ; and the island under the east shore, to the southward of Cape Denbigh, named Bessborough Island, S. 62° E., fifteen leagues distant. As this waa a very open road, and consequently not a safe station, I re- solved not to wait to complete water, ^P» that would require some time ; but only to supply the ships with wood, and then to go in search of a more convenient place for the other article. We took off the drift-wood that lay upon the beach ; and as the wind blew along shore the boats could sail both wayS; which enabled us to make great despa. h. In the afternoon I went ashore and walked a little into the country ; which, rhere there was no wood, was covered with heath and 192 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. IV. Oh. V. other plants, eorae of which prcduce berries in abandance All the berries were ripe, the hurtle- berries^ too much so ; and hardly a single plant was in flower. The underwood, such as birch, willows, and alders, rendered it very troublesome walking among the trees, which were all spruce, and none of them above six or eight inches in dia- meter. Bat we found some lying upon the beach more than twice this size. All the drift-wood in these northern parts was fir ; I saw not a stick of any other sort. Next day a family of the natives cama near to the flace where we were taking oflF wood, know not how many there were at first ; but I saw only the husband, the wife, and their child, and a fourth person, who bore the human shape, and that was all ; for he was the most deformed cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost blind, . and neither he nor his wife were such good-looking people as we had sometimes seen amongst the na- tives of this coast. The under lips of both were bored ; and they had in their possession some such glass beads as I had met with before amongst their neighbours. But iron wac their beloved Article " For four knives, which we had made out of an old iron hoop, I got from them near 400 pounds weight of fish, which they had caught on this or the pre- ceding day. Some were trout, and the rest were in size and taste some- what between a mullet and a lierring. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads ; on which the mother burst into tears, then the father, then the cripple, and at last, to complete the concert, the girl herself; but this music continued not long. B-'fouQ night we had got the ships amply supplied with wood, and had earned on board about twelve tons of water to each. On the 14th a jmrty of men were sent on shore to cut brooms, which we were in want of, and the branches of spruce trees for brewing beer. To- wards noon everybody was taken on ^ Whortle-berriea, bilberries. board ; for the wind freshening had raised such a surf on the beach that the boats could not continue to land without great difficulty. Some doubts being still entertained whether the coast we were now upon belonged to an island or the American continent, and the shallowness of the water put- ting it out of our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King with two boats under his com- mand to make such searches as might leave no room for a variety of opinions on the subject. Next day the ships removed over to the bay which is on the south-east side of Cape Denbigh, where we anchored in the afternoon. Soon after, a few of the natives came off in their small canoes, and bartered some dried salmon for such trifles as our people had to give them. At daybreak on the 16th, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a visit. They approached the ship with some caution, and evidently came with no other view than to gratify their curi- osity. They drew up abreast of each other under our stern, and gave us a song ; while one of their number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thousand antic motions with his hands and body. There was, I:ow- ever, nothing savage either in the son^ or in the gestures that accom- panied it. None of us could perceive any difference between these people, either as to their size or features, and those whom we had met with on every other part of the coast. King George's Sound excepted. Their clothing, which consisted principally of deer-skins, was made after the same fashion ; and they observed the custom of boring their under lips, and fixing ornaments to them. The dwellings of these people were seated close to the beach. They consist simply of a sloping roof, without any side walls, composed of logs and covered with grass and earth. The floor is also laid with logs ; the en- trance is at one end, the fireplace just within it, and a small hole is made near the door to let out the smoke. After breakfast a party of men were sent to the peninsula for brooms and Sept. 1778.3 PRODtTCE OP THE COUNTRY. 293 spruce. At the same time haK the remainder of the people in each ship had leave to go and pick berries. These returned on board at noon, wheu the other half went on the same errand. The berries to be got here were wild currant-berries, part- ridge-borries, and heath-berries, I also went ashore myself and walked over part of the peninsula. In several places there was very good grass, and I hardly saw a spot on which some vegetable was not growing. The low land which connects this peninsula with the continent is full of narrow creeks, and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were already frozen over. There were a great many geese and bustards, but so shy that it was not possible to get within mus- ket-shot of them. We also met with some snipes, and on the high ground were partridges of two sorts. Where there was any wood, mosquitoes were in plenty. Some of the officers, who travelled farther than I did, met with a few of the natives of both sexes, who treated them with civility. It appeared to me that this peninsula must have been an island in remote times ; for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the isthmus ; and even now it appeared to be kept out by a bank of sand, stones, and wood, thrown up by the waves. By this bank it was evident that the land was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was easy to trace its gradual formation. About seven iu the evening Mr King returned from his expedition, and reported that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues farther than the ships had been able to go ; that he then landed on the west side ; that, from the heights he could see the twa coasts join, and the inlet to terminals in a small river or creek, before wuich were banks of sand or mud, and every where shoal water. The laml, too, was low and swampy for sorae distance to the northward ; then it swelled into hills ; and the complete junction of those on each side of the inlet was easily traced. From tlie elevated spot on which Mr King surveyed the sound, he could distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers running through them, well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate height. One of these rivers to the north-west appeared to be consider- able ; and from its direction he was inclined to think that it emptied itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, who pene- trated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger the farther they advanced. In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton,^ Speaker of the House of Commons, and Mr King's near rela- tion, I named this inlet Norton Sound. It extends to the northward as far as the Latitude of 64° 55'. The bay in which we were now at anchor lies on the south-east side of it, and is called by the natives Chack- toole. It is but an indifferent station, being exposed to the south and south- west winds ; nor is there a harbour in all this sound. But we were so for- tunate as to have the wind from the north and north-east all the time, with remarkably fine weather. Having now fully satisfied myself that Mr Stsehlin'a map must be erroneous, and, having restored the American continent to that space which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alashka, it was high time to think of leaving these northern regions and to retire to some place during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for my people, and a small supply of provi- sions. Petropaulowska, or the har- bour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely to furnish either the one or the other for so large a number of men. I had, besides, other reasons for not repair- ing thither at this time. The first, on which all the others depended, was the great dislike I had to lie in- active for six or seven mouths, which would havo been the necessary conse- quence of wintering in any of these northern parts. No place was so convenienuy within our reach, wheie ^ Afterwards Lord Qrantley. 294 we could expect to have our wants supplied, as the Sandwich Islands ; to them, therefore, I determined to pro- ceed. But before this could be carried into execution, a supply of water was necessary. With this view I resolved to searcli the American coast for a harbour, by proceeding along it to the southward, and thus endeavour to connect the survey of this part of it with that lying immediately to the north of Cape Newenham. If I failed in finding a harbour there, my plan was then to proceed to Samganoodha, which was fixed upon aa our place of rendezvous in case of separation. COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B.IV. Ch. Vi. CHAPTER VI. Having weighed on the 17th in the morning with a liglit breeze at E., we steered to the southward and at- tempted to pass within Bessborough Island ; but though it lies six or seven miles from the continent, were pre- vented by meeting with shoal water. As we had but httle wind all the day, it was dark before we passed the island, and the night was spent under an easy sail. We resumed our course at daybreak on the 18th, along the coast. At noon we had no more than five fathoms water. At this time the latitude was 63° 37'. Dessbor- ough Island now bore N. 42° E. ; the souchemmost land in sight, which proved also to be an island, S. 66° W. ; the passage between it and the main S. 40° W. ; and the nearest land about two miles distant. I con- tinued to steer for this passage until the boats, which were ahead, made the signal for having no more than three fathoms water. On this we hauled without the island, and made the signal for the Besoludon's boat to keep between the ships and the shore. This island, which obtained the name of Stuart's Island, lies in the Latitude of 63° 36', and seventeen leagues from Cape Denbigh in the direction of S. 27' W. It is six or •even leagues in circuit. iSome pai'ts of it are of a middling height ; but in general it is low, with some rocks lying ofif the western part. The coast of the continent is for the most part low land, but we saw high land up the country. It forms a point, oppo- site the island, which was named Cape Stephens, and lies in Latitude 63* 33' and in Longitude 197° 41'. Some drift-wood was seen upon the shores both of the island and of the continent; but not a tree was per- ceived growing upon either. One might anchor upon occasion between the north-east side of this island and the continent, in a depth of five fathoms, sheltered from westerlvi southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be wholly exposed to the northerly winds, the land in that direction being at too great a distance to afford any security. Be- fore we reached Stuart's Island, we passed two small islands Ijang between us and the main ; and as we ranged along the coast several people appeared upon the shore, and by signs seemed to invite us to approach them. As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by W. for the southern- most point of the continent in sight, till 8 o'clock in the evening, when, having shoaled the water from six fathoms to less than four, I tacked and stood to the northward into five fathoms, and then spent the night lying olf and on. At the time we tacked, the southernmost point of Land, the same which is mentioned above, and was named Point Shallow Water, bore S. half E. seven leagues distant. We resumed our course to the southward at daybreak next morning, but shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length we got so fur advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a NNW. cour-3, meeting sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at ENE., it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deep- ■t Sept. 1778.] SHOALS OK THE f ncd the water to eight fathoms. At the time we hauled the wind we were at least twelve leagues from the con- tinent and nine to the westward of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point Shallow Water, which I judge to lie in the Latitude of 63° ; so tnat between this latitude and Shoal Ness, in Latitude 60°, the coast is entirely unexplored. Probably it is accessible only to boats or very small vessels, or at least, if there be channels for larger vessels it would require some time to find them ; and I am of opinion that they must be looked for near the coast. From the mast-head, the sea within us appeared to be chequered with shoals ; the water wsis very much dis- coloured and muddy, and consider- ably fresher than at any of the places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred that a considerable river runs into the sea in this un- known part.^ As soon as we got into eight fathoms water I steered to the west- ward, and afterwards more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th, which at noon the next day bore SW. by W., ten or eleven leagues distant. At this time we had a fresh gale at N., with showers of hail and snow at intervals, and a pretty high sea ; so that we got clear of the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's Island, I named it Gierke's Island. It lies in the Latitude of 63° 15', and in the Longitude of 190° 30'. It seemed to be a pretty large island, in which are four or more hills, all connected by low ground ; so that at a distance it looks like a p-oup of islands. Near its east part lies a small island remark- able by having \ipon it three elevated rocks. Net only the greater island ^ In modern maps a lar^e river named the Kwichpak, takiiig its rise far inland tu the east and south-eaMt, and debouching by several mouths into the sea north of Cape Komanzov, is marked just where Cook conjectured the existence of such a stream. AMERICAN COAST. 295 but this small spot was inhabited. Wo got up to the northern point of Clerke's Island about 6 o'clock, and having ranged along its coast till dark, brought to during the night. At daybreak next morning we stood in again for the coast, and continued to range along it in search of a har- bour tiU noon, when, seeing no like- lihood of succeeding, I left it and steered SSW. for the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July ; having a fresh gale at N. with showers of sleet and snow. I remarked that as soon as we opened the channel which separates tne two continents, cloudy weather with snow-showers immediately commenced ; whereas all the time that we were in Norton Sound we had, with the same wind, clear weather. Might not this be occasioned by the mountains to the north of that place attracting the vapours and hindering them to pro- ceed any farther ? At daybreak in the morning of the 23d the land above nientioned ap- peared in sight, bearing SW., six or seven leagues distant. From this point of view it resembled a group of islands ; but it proved to be but one, of thirty miles in extent in the direc- tion of NW. and SE., the SE. end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of The island is but narrow, especially at the low necks of land that connect the hills. I afterward found that it was wholly unknown to the Russians ; and therefore, con- sidering it as a discovery of our own, I named it Gore's Island. It ap- E eared to be barren, and without in- abitants ; at least we saw none. Nor did we see so many birds about it as when we first discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters, an animal which we had not met with to the north of this latitude. Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction of S. 72 W., lies a small island whose elevated summit terminates in several pinnacle rocks. On this account it was named Pinnacle Island. At two in the afternoon, after passing Cape Upright I steered SE. by S. for Samgano"dha, with a gentle breeze COOK'S VOYAGES, 1^1' 296 at NNW., being resolved to spend no more time in searching for a har- bour amongst islands which I now began to suspect had no existence, at least not in the latitude and longi- tude where modem map-makers have thought proper to place them. In the evening of the 24th the wind veered to S W. and S., and increased to a fresh gale. We continued to stretch to the east- ward till 8 o'clock in the morning of the 25th, when, in the Latitude of 58° 32', and in the Longitude of 191° 10', we tacked and stood to the west ; and soon after, the gale increasing, we were reduced to two courses and close-reefed maintop-sails. Not long after, the Besolution sprang a leak under the starboard buttock, which filled the spirit-room with water before it was discovered ; and it was so consider- able as to I-^ep one pump constantly employed. We durst not put the ship upon the other tack for fear of getting upon the shoals that lie to the NW. of Cape Newenham; but continued standing to the west till aix in the evening of the 26th, when we wore and stood to the eastward, and then the leak no longer troubled us. This proved that it was above the water fine, which was no small satisfaction. The gale was now over, but the wind remained at S. and SW. fi>r some days longer. At length, on the 2d of October at daybreak, we saw the island of Oona- lashka bearing SE. But as this was to us a new point of view, and the land was obscured by a thick haze, we were not sure of our situation till noon, when the observed latitude de- termined it. As all the harbom-s v.'ere alike to me provided they were equally safe and convenient, I hauled into a bay that lies ten miles to the west- ward of Samganoodha, known by the name of Egoochshac ; but we found verj^deep water, so that we were glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived here, visited us at dif- ferent times, bringing with them dried salmon and other fish, which they ex- changed with the seamen for tobacco. But a few days before, every ounce of [VoY.lIt.B.lV.CH.Vl. tobacco that was in the ship had been distributed among them ; and the quantity was not half sufficient to answer their demands. Notwith- standing this, so improvident a crea« ture is an English sailor, that they were aa profuse in making their bar- gains as if we had now arrived at a f)ort in Virginia ; by which means, in ess than eight-and-forty houi's the value of this article of barter was lowered above 1000 per cent. At 1 o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d we anchored in Samganoodha harbour ; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships were set to work to rip off the sheathing of and under the wale on the starboard side abaft. Many of the seams were found quite open, so that it was no wonder that so much water had found its way into the ship. While we lay here we cleared the fish and spirit rooms and the after-hold, disposing things in such a manner, that in case we should happen to have any more leaks of the same nature the water might find it way to the pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, we cleared the forehold to the very bottom, and took in T, quantity of ballast. The vegetables which we had met with when we were here before were now mostly in a state of decay, so that we were but little benefited by the great quantities of berries everywhere found ashore. In order to avail our- selves as much as possible of this useful refreshment, one-third of the people by turns had leave to go and pick them. Considerable quantities of them were also procured from the natives. If there were any seeds of the scurvy in either ship, these berries, and the use of spruce beer, which [the crews] had to drink every other day, effectually eradicated them. We also got plenty of fish, at first mostly salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in high perfection ; but there was one sort, which we called hook-nosed, from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the seine several times at the head of the bay, and caught a good many salmon-trout, Oct. 1778.] INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES OP OONALASHKA. 297 so and once a halibut that weighed 254 pounds. The fishery failing, we had recourse to hooks and lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without eight or ten halibut, which was more than sufficient to serve all our people. The halibut were ex- cellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to salmon. Thus we not only procured a supply of fish for present consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. This enabled us to make a considerable saving of our provisions, which was an object of no small importance. On the 8th I received by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named Derra- moushk, a very singular present, con- sidering the place. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pie made in the form of a loaf, for it enclosed some salmon highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of us written in a character which none of us could read. It was natural to sup- pose that this present was from some Russians now in our neighbourhood ; and therefore we sent by the same hand, to these our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter, which we thought would be as accept- able as anything we had beside ; and we soon knew that in this we had not been mistaken. I also sent, along with Derramoushk, Corporal Lediard of the marines, an intelligent man, in order to gain some further informa- tion, with orders that if he met with any Russians he should endeavour to make them understand that we were English, the friends and allies of their nation. On the 10th, Lediard returned with thrp« Russian seamen or fun icrs, who wit^ >,^me others resided at Egooch- shac, where they had a dwelling- house, some r^tore-houses, and a sloop of about thirty tons burthen. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel ; another of them wrote a very good hand and under- stood figures ; and they were all three well-behaved, intelligent men, and very ready to give me all the informa- tion I could desire. But for want of an interpreter we had some diffi- culty to understand each other. They appeared to have a thorough know- ledge of the attempts that had been made by their countrymen to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the dis- coveries which had been made from KamtschatkabyBehring, TscherikoflF, and Spanberg. But they seemed to know no more of Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd, than his name. Nor had they the least idea what part of the world Mr Stsehlin's map referred to when it was laid before them. When I pointed out Eamtschatka and some other known places upon that map, they asked whether I had seen the islands there laid down ; and on my answering in the negative, one of them put his finger upon a part of this map where a number of islands was repre- sented, and said that he had cruised there for land but never could find any. I then laid before them my own chart, and found that they were strangers to every part of the Ameri- can coast except what lies opposite this island. One of these men said that he had been with Bohring in his American voyage, but he must then have been veiy young, for he hud not now, at the distance of thirty-seven years, the appearance of being aged. Never was there greater respect paid to the memory of any distmguished person than by these men to that of Behring. The trade in which they are engaged is very beneficial ; and its being imdertaken and extended to the eastward of Kamtschatka was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of that able navigator, whose misfortunes proved to be the source of much private advantage to indi- viduals and of public utility to the Russian nation. And yet, if his dis- tresses had not accidentally carried him to die in the island which bears his name, and whence the miserable remnant of his ship's crew brought back sufficient specimens of its vtdu- able furs, probably the Russians never would have undertaken any future voyages which could lead them to make discoveries in the sea towards the coast of America. Indeed, aft&r 208 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. ill. fi. IV. Ch. VI. il his time Government seems to have paid less attention to this ; and we owe what discoveries have been since made principally to the enterprising spirit of private traders, encouraged, however, by the superintending care of the Court of Petersburg. The three Russians having remained with me all- night, visited Captain Gierke next morning, and then left us, very well satisfied with the reception they had met >vith, promising to return in a few days and to bring with them a chart of the islands lying between Oonalashka and Kamtschatka. On the 15th, in the evening, while Mr Webber and I were at a village at a small distance from Samganoodha, a Russian landed there who, I found, was the principal person ainongst his countrymen in this and the neigh- bouring islands. His name was Era- sim Gregorioflf Sin Ismyloff. He arrived in a canoe carrying three per- sons, attended by twenty or thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man. I took notice that the first thing they did after landing was to make a small tent for Ismyloff of materials which they brought with them, and then they made others for ' themselves of theircanoesand paddles, which they covered with grass, so that the people of the village were at no trouble to find them lodging. Is- myloff, having invited us into his tent, set before us some dried salmon nnd berries, which, I was satisfied, was the best cheer he had. He appeared to be a sensible, intelligent man ; and I felt no small mortification in not being able to converse with him unless by signs, assisted by figures and other characters, which, however, were a very great help. I desired to see him on ooard the next day, and accordingly he came, with all his at- tendants. Indeed he had moved into our neighbourhood for the express purpose of waiting upoa us. I was in hopes to have had by him the chart which his three countrymen had pro- mised, but I was disappointed. How- ever, he assured me I should have it, and ho kept his word. I foimd that he WM ye^ well acquainted with the geography of these parts, and with all the discoveries that had been made in them by the Russians. On seeing the modern maps, he at once pointed out their errors. He told me he had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd, as he called him, in his expedition to the north ; and, according to his account, they did not proceed farther than the Tschukotskoi Nos, or rather than the Bay of St Laurence, for he pointed on our chart to the very place where I landed. From thence, he said, they went to an island in Latitude 63°, upon which they did not land, nor could he tell me its name ; but I should guess it to be the same to which I gave the name of Gierke's Island. To what place Synd went after that, or in what manner he spent the two years durng which, as Ismy- loff said, his researches lasted, he either could not, or would not, inform us. Perhaps he did not comprehend our inquiries about this ; and yet in almost every other thing we could make him understand u'j. Thiscreated a suspicion that he had not really been in that expedition, notwithstand- ing his assertion. Both Ismyloff and the others af- firmed that they knew nothing of the continent of America to the north- ward, and that neither Lieutenant Synd nor any other Russian had ever seen it of late. They call it by the same name which Mr Staehlin gives to his great island, that is, Alashka. Stachtan Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a name quite un- known to these people, natives of the islands as well as Russians ; but both of them know it by the name of America. From what we could gather from Ismyloff and his countrjrmen, the Russians have made several at- tempts to get a footing upon that part of this continent that lies contiguous to Oonalashka and the adjoining islands, but have always been repulsed by the natives, whom they describe as a very treacherous people. They mentioned two or three captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by them ; and some of the Russians Oct. 177P.] CHARTS OF RUSSIAN DISCOVERIES. 299 showed ua wounds which they said they had received there. Some other information which we got from Isray- loff is worth recording, whether true or false. He told us that in the year 1773 an expedition had been made into the Frozen Sea in sledges over the ice to three large islands that lie opposite the mouth of the River Koli- ma. We were in some doubt whetlier he did not mean the same expedition of which MuUer gives an account ; and yet he wi'ote down the year and marked the islands on the chart. But a voyage which he himself had per- formed engaged our attention more than any other. He said that on the 12th of May 1771 he sailed from Bol- scheretzk,^ in a Russian vessel, to one of the Kurile Islands, named Maree- kan, in the Latitude of 47", where there is a harbour and a Russian settlement. From this island he pro- ceeded to Japan, where he seems to have made but a short stay. For when the Japanese came to know that he and his companions were Chris- tians, they made signs for them to be gone, but did not, so far as we could understand him, oflFer any insult or force. From Japan he got to Canton, and thence to France in a French ship. From France he travelled to St Petersburg, and was afterwards sent out again to Kamtschatka. What became ot the vessel in which h first embarked, wo could not lea: nor what was the principal object of the voyage. His not being able to speak one word of French made this story a little suspicious. He did not even know the name of any one of the most common things that must have been in use every day while he was on board the ship and in France. And yet he seemed clear as to the times of his arriving at the different places, and of his leaving them, which he put down in writing. The next morning he would fain have made me a present of a sea-otter skin, which, he said, was worth eighty * On the south-west coast of Kamt- schatka, just across the peninsula from Petropauloyski on the south-east side. roubles at Kamtschatka. However, I thought proper to decline it ; but I accepted of some dried fish and several baskets of the lily, or "faranne" root. In the afternoon Mr Ismyloff, after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue, promising to return in a few days. Accordingly on the 19th he made us another visit, and brought with him the chails be- fore mentioned, which he allowed me to copy, and the contents of which furnish matter for the following ob« servations. " There were two of them, both manuscripts, and bearing eveiy mark of authenticity. The first com- prehended the Penshinskian Sea,* the coast of Tartary as low as the Latitude of 41°, the Kurile Islands, and the peninsula of Kamtschatka. Since this map had been made, Wawseelee Irkeechoff, Captain of the Fleet, ex- plored in 1758 the coast of Tartary, from Okotsk and the River Amoor to Japan, or 41° of Latitude. Mr Ismy- loff also informed us that great part of the sea-coast of the peninsula of Kamtschatka had been corrected by himself, and desf ribed the instrument he made use of, which must have been a theodolite. He also informed us that there were only two harbours fit for shipping on all the east coast of Kamtschatka, viz., the Bay of Awatska, and the River Olutora, in the bottom of the gulf of the same name ; that there was not a single harbour upon its west coast ; and that Yamsk was the only one on all the west side of the Penshinskian Sea, except Okotsk, till we come io the River Amoor. The Kurile Islands allbrd only one harbour, and that is on the north-east side of Mareekan, in the Latitude of 474°, where, as I have before observed, the Russians have a settlement. The second chart was to me the most interesting, for it com- prehended all the discoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of Kamt- " Considerably abridged, as now of comparatively slight value, having long ago been superseded by farther research in those regions. * The Sea of Okotsk. soo COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. IV. Ch. VI. I I ! I Bchatka towards America, which, if we exclude the voyage of Behring and Tscherikoff, will amount to little or nothing. . . . It appeared by the chart, as well as by the testimony of Ismylofif and the other Bussians, that this ^ is as far as their countrymen have made any dis- coveries, or have extended themselves, since Behring's time. They all said that no Russians hadsettled themselves so far to the cast as the place where the natives ^ave the note to Captain Gierke ; which Mr Ismylofif, to whom I delivered it, on perusing it said had been written at Oomanak. Itwas, how- ever, from him that we got the name of Kodiak,' the largest of Schumagin's Islands ; for it had no name upon the chart produced by him. The names of all the other islands were taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by him. He said they were all such as the natives tliem- selves called their islands by ; but, if so, some of the names seem to have been strangely altered. It is worth observing, hat no names were put to the islands which Ismyloff told us were to be struck out of the chart ; and I considered this as some confirmation that they were not in existence. I have already observed that the Ameri- can continent is here called by the Russians, as well as by the islanders, Alashka ; which name, though it pro- perly belong only to the country ad- joining to Ooneemak, is used by them when sneaking of the American con- tinent in general, which they know perfectly well to be a great land. This 18 all the information I got from these people relating to the geography of ^ The Halibut Isles, and the Island of Ooneemak, forming — the latter especially— a westward continuation of the peninsula of Alashka ; from which it is divided by a narrow and shallow channel, impracticable for riiips. ' A Russian ship had been at Eodi- ack, in 1776 ; it lies south of the middle of the Alashkan peninsula, Bome distance westward from the eutrance to Cook's inlet. this part of the world ; and I have reason to believe that this was all the infonnation they were able to give. For they assured me over and over again that they knew of no other islands besides those which were laid down upon this chart ;^ and that no Russian had over seen any part of the continent of America to the north- ward, except that which lies opposite the country of the Tschutskis. Mr Ismylofif remained with us till the 21st in the evening, when he took his final leave. To his care I entrusted a letter to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which was en- closed a chart of all the northern coasts I had visited. He said there would be an opportunity of sending it to Kamtschatka or Okotsk the en- suing spring ; and that it would be at St Petersburg the following winter. He gave me a letter to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtschatka, who resides at Bolscheretsk ; and another to the commandingofiSceratPetropaulowska. Mr Ismylofi seemed to have abilities that might entitle him to a higher station in life than that in which we found him. He was tolerably well versed in astronomy and in the most useful branches of the mathematics. I made him a present of a Hadley's octant ; and though probably it was the first he had ever seen, he made himself acquainted in a very short time with most of the uses to which that instrument can be applied. In the morning of the 22d we made an attempt to ^et to sea, with the wind at SE. , which miscarried. The following afternoon we were visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch SoposnicofiT, a Russian who commanded a boat or small vessel at Oomauak. This man had a great share of modesty, and would drink no strong liquor, or which the rest of his countrymen whom we had met with here were immoderately fond. He seemed to know more 8 They were Behring's Island, Cop- per Island, and the Aleutian chain, as far as the channel between Oonee- mak and the peninsula of Alajshka on the American maiulaud. Oct. i778.] accurately what supplies could be got at the harbour of Pelropaulowska, and the price of the different articles, than Mr Ismyloff. But, by all ac- counts, everything we shoula want at that place was very scarce and bore a high price. Flour, for instance, was from three to five roubles the pood ;^ and deer from three to five roubles each. This man told us that he was to be at PetropaulowskainMay next ; and, as I understood, was to have the charge of my letter. He seemed to be exceedingly desirous of having some token from me to carry to Major Behm; and to gratify him I sent a small spy- ing-glass. After we became acquainted with these Russians, some of our gentlemen at different times visited their settle- ment on the island ; where they always met with a hearty welcome. This settlement consisted of a dwelling- house and two store-houses. And besides the Russians there was a num- ber of the Kamtschadales and of the natives, as servants or slaves to the former. Some others of the natives, who seemed independent of the Rus- sians, lived at the same place. Such of them as belonged to the Russians were all males ; and they are taken, or perhaps purchased, from their par- ents when young. There were at this time about twenty of these, who could be looked upon in no other light tlian as children. They all live in the same house, the Russians at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and the natives at the lower end ; where is fixed a large boiler for preparing their food, which consists chiefly of what the sea produces, with the addi- tion of wild roots and berries. There is little difference between the first and last table besides what is produced by cookery, in which the Russians have the art to make indifferent things palatable. I have eaten whale's flesh of their dressing which I thought very good ; and they made a kind of pan- pudding of salmon roe, beaten up iine and fried, that is no bad succedaneum for bread. They may, now and then, THE RUSSIAN SETTLEMENTS. taste real bread, or havA Thirty -six pounds. 801 a dish in which flour is an ingredient ; but this can only be an occasional luxury. If we except the juice of berries, which they sip at their meals, they have no other liquor besides pure water ; and it seems to be very happy for them that they have nothing stronger. As the island supplies them with food, so it does in a great measure with cloth* ing. This consists chiefly of skins, and is perhaps the best they could have. The upper garment is made like our waggoner's frock, and reaches as low as the knee. Besides this they wear a waistcoat or two, a pair of : breeches, a fur cap, and a jne, hollowed on one side like a plate, and about the same size, or rather larger. In the hollow part they put the oil, mixed with a httle dry grass, which serves the purpose of a wide. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies over one of these lamps, by placing it between their legs, under their gar- ments, and sitting thus over it for a few minutes. They produce fixd both by collision and by attrition ; the former by striking two stones one against another, on one of which a food deal of brimstone is first rubbed, 'he latter method is with two pieces of wood, one of which is a stick of about eighteen inches in length, and the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the stick thejr press upon the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill, thus producing fire in a few minutes. Tliis method is common in many parts of the world. It is prac- tised by the Kamtschadales, by these 304 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B. IV. Ch. VI. people, by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilinns, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and probr.bly by many other nations. Yet some learned and ingenious men have founded an argument on this custom to prove that this and that nation are of the same extraction. But accidental agreements, in a few par- ticular instances, will not authorise such a conclusion ; nor will a dis- agreement either in manners or cus- toms between two different nations of course prove that they are of different extraction. I could support this opinion by many instances be- sides the one just mentioned. No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon was seen amongst the natives of Oonalashka. We cannot suppose that the Russians found them in such a defenceless state; it is more probable that, for their own security, they have dis- armed them. Political reasons, too, may have induced the Russians not to allow these islanders to have any large canoes ; for it is difficult to believe they had none such originally, as we found them amongst aJl their neighbours. However, we saw none here but one or two belonging to the Russians. The canoes made use of by the natives are the smallest we had anywhen seen upon the American coast, though built after the same manner, with some little difference in the construction. The stern of these terminates a little abruptly ; the head is forked, the upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, which is even with the surface of the water. Why thejr should thus con- struct them is difficult to conceive, for the fork is apt to catch hold of everything that comes in the way, to prevent which they fix a piece of small stick from point to pomt. In other respects their canoes are built after the manner of those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, the framing being of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about twelve feet long, a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or fourteen inches deep. Upon occa- sion they can carry two persons ; one of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, and the other sits in the seat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Hound this hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which is sewed gut skin, that can be drawn together or opened like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin tight round his body over his gut frock, and brings iho ends of the thongs or purse-string over the shoulder to keep it in its place. The sleeves of his frock are tied round his wrists ; and it being close round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, whore it is confined by his cap, water . can scarcely penetrate either to his body or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate itself, the boat- man carries a piece of sponge with which he dries it up. He uses the double-bladed paddle, which ' held with both hands in the Idle, striking the water with a q Ic re- gular motion, first on one siao and then on the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a ^reat rate, and in a direction as straight as » line can be drawn. In sailing from Egoochsliac to Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way with the ship, though she was going at the rate of seven miles an hour. Their fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon their canoes, under straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made, in great perfection, of wood and bone, and differ very little from those used by the Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. The only^ dif- ference is in the point of the missile dart, which in some we saw here is not above an inch long ; whereas Crantz says, that those of the Green- landers are a foot and a half in length. These people are very expert in strik- ing fish, both in the sea and in rivers. They also make use of hooks and lines, nets and wears. The hooks are composed of bone, and the lines of sinews. The fishes which are common to other northera seas are found here, OoT. 1778.] ANIMALS SEEN ON THE COAST. SO.I or Buch as whales, grampuaes, por- poises, sword-fish, halibut, cod, sal- mon, trout, soles, flat-fish ; several other sorts of small fish ; and there may be many more that we had no opportunity of seeing. Halibut and salmon seem to be in the gieatest plenty, and on them the inhabitants of these isles subsist chiefly, at least they were the only sort of fish, ex- cept a few cod, which we observed to be laid up for their winter store. To the north of 60* the sea is in a man- ner destitute of small fish of every kind, but then whales are more num- erous. Seals, and that whole tribe of sea-animals, are not so numerous as in many other seas. Nor can this be thought strange, since there is hardly any pait of the coast on either con- tinent, nor any of the islands lying between them, that is not inhabited, and whose inhabitants hunt these animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horses are, indeed, in prodigious numbers about the ice ; and the sea- otter is, I believe, nowhere found but in this sea. We sometimes saw an animal with a head like a seal's, that blew afti the manner of whales. It was Lu'ger han a seal, and its colour was wli te, with some dark spots. Probably this was the sea-cow or "manatee." I think I may venture to assert, that sea and water fowls are neither in such numbers nor in such variety as with us in the northern parts of the Atlantic Ocean. There are some, however, here that I do not remember to have seen anywhere else, particularly the Alca monochroa of Steller, and a black and white duck, which I con- ceive to be different from the stone- duck described by Krasheninikoff. ^ All the other birds seen by us are mentioned by this a-.thor, except some that we met with near the ice ; and most if not all of these are de- scribed by Martin in his^ voyage to Greenland. It is a little extraordin- ^ In his " Description of Kamts- chatka," published in French at Am- fcterdam in 1770, and afterwards trans- lated into English. ary that penguins, which are common in many parts of the world, should not be found in this sea. Alliutrosses, too, are so very scarce that I cannot help thinking that this is not their proper climate. The few ^and-birds that we met with are the same with those in Europe; but there may be many others which we had no oppor- tunity of knowing. A very beautiful bird was sliot in the woods at Norton Sound, which I am told is sometimes found in England, and known by tho name of chatterer. Our people mot with other small birds there, but in no great variety and abundance ; such as the woodpecker, the bullfinch, the yellow finch, and a small bird called a titmouse. As our excursions and observations were confined wholly to the sea-coast, it is not to be expected that we could know much of the animals or vege- tables of the country. Except mos- quitoes, there are few other insects, nor reptiles that I saw, but lizards. There are no deer upon Oonalashka or upon any other of the islands. Nor have they any domestic animals, not even dogs. Foxes and weasels were the only quadrupeds we saw ; but they told us that they had hares also and the "marmottas"" men- tioned by Krasheninikoff. Hence it is evident that the sea and river» supply the greatest share of food to the inhabitants. They are also obliged to the sea for all the wood made uae of for building and other necessary purposes; for not a stick grows upon any of the islands nor upon the adjacent coast of the con- tinent. The learned tell us, that the seeds of plants are by various means con- veyed from one part of the world to another ; even to islands in the midst of great oceans and far remote from any other land. How comes it to pass that there are no trees groving on this part of the continent m America, nor any other of the islands lying n;^ar it ? They are certainly aa well situated for receiving seeds, by " Marmots. U <> 806 ■11 the various ways i. have heard of, as any of those coasts that abound in wood. May not Nature have denied to some soil the power of rais- ing treat) without the assistance of art ? AS to the drift-wood upon the shores of the islands I have no doubt that it comes from America For Although there may be none on the neighbouring coast, enough may grow farther up the country, which tor- rents in the spring may break loose and bring down to the sea. And not a little may be conveyed from the woody coasts, though they lie at a greater di:;tance. There are a great variety of plants at Oonalashka, and most of them were in flower the latter end of June. Several of tliem are such as we find in Europe and in other parts of America, particularly in Newfound- land ; and others of them, which are also met with in Kanitschatka, are eaten by the natives both there and here. The principal one is the "faranne," or lily root, which is about the size of a root of garlic, round, made up of a number of small cloves and grains like groats, ''•^^hen boiled it is somewhat like saloop ; the taste is not disagreeable, and we found means to make some good dishes with it. It does not seem to be in great plenty, for we got none but what Ismyloff gave via. We must reckon amongst the food of the natives some other wild roots; the stalk of a plant resembling Angelica; and berries of several di^rent sorts, such as bramble-berries, cran-berries, hurtle-terries, heath-berries, a small red berry which in Newfoundland is •»lled partridge-berry i and another brown berry unknown to us. This has somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is unlike it in every other respect. It is very astringent if eaten in any quantity . Brandy might be distilled from it. Captain Gierke attempted to preserve some, but they fermented and became as strong as if they had been steeped in spirits. There were a few otner plants which we found serviceable, but are not made use of by either | Bu&sians or natives; such as v/ild < COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. IV. Ch. VI. purslain, peatops, a kind of scurvy- grass, cresses, and some others. All these we found very palatable dressed either in noups or in salads. On the low ground and in the valleys is plenty of grass, which grows very thick and to a great length. I am of opinion that cattle might subsist at Oonalashka all the year round without being housed. And the soil in many places seemed capable of producing grain, roots, and vege- tables. But at present the Russian traders and the natives seem satisfied with what Nature brings forth. Native sulphur was seen amongst the inhabitants of the island, but I had no opportunity of learning where tliey got it. We found also ochre, a stone that gives a purple colour, and another that gives a very good green. It may be doubted whether this last is known. In its natural state, it is of a greyish green colour, coarse and heavy. It easily dissolves in oil; but when put into water it entirely loses its properties. It seemed to be scarce in Oonalashka ; but we were told that it was in greater plenty on the Island Oone- mak. As to the stones about the shore and hills I saw nothing in them that was uncommon. The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits of hills, and raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the count»y one of the natives who attended me pointed out several of these rec(^p- tacles of the dead. There was one of them by the side of the road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a heap of stones. It was observed that every one who passed it added one to it.^ I saw in the country several stone hillocks that seemed to have been raised by art. Many of them were apparently of great antiquity. What their notions are of the Deity and of a ' It is almcst superfluous to recall here the ancient Celtic practice, and modern Scottish proverb of "adding a stone to the cairn " of any one to whose memory houuui' was intended. OoT. 1778.] LEAVE SAMGANOODHA. 807 future Btuce, I know not. I am equally unacquainted with thei- di- versions; notning having been Been that could give us an insight into either. Thev ore remarkably cheerful and friendly amongst each other ; and r.lways behaved with great civility to us. The Russians told us that they never had any connections with their women, because they were not Chris- tians. Our people were not so scrupu- lous ; and some of them had reason to repent that the females of Oonalashki. encouraged their addresses without any reserve, for their health suffered by a distemper that is not unknown here. The natives of this island are also subject to the cancer, or a com- plaint like it, which those whom it attacks are very careful to conceal. They do not seem to be long-lived. I nowhere saw a person, man or woman, whom I could suppose to bo sixty years of age ; and but very few who appeared to be above fifty. Probably their hard way of living may be the means of shortening their days. 1 have frequently had occasion to mention, from the time of our arrival in Prince WilliamV, Sounfl; how re- markably the nati\'es on this north- west side of America resemble tlie Greenlanders and Esquimaux, in various *particula;ti cf person, dress, weapons, canoes, iiad the like. How- ever, I w.'j much less struck with this than with the affinity which we found subsisting boUveen the dialects of the Greenlanderti and Esquimaux and those of Norton Sound and Oon- alashka. This appears from a table of corresponding wordn which I put together. Enough is certain to war- rant this judgment, that there is groat reason to believe that all these nations arc of the same extraction ; and if so, there can be little doubt of there being a northern communi- cation of some sort by sea between this west side of America and the east side through Baffin's Bay, which communication, however, may be effectually shut up against ships by ice and other impeuimeuts. Sucu at least was my opinion at thla time.^ CHAPTER VII. hi the momin<; of Monday the 26th we put to sea froi? Samganoodha har- bour, and, as the wind v. :i3 southerly, stood away . > the westward. My intention was now to proceed to Sand- wich Islands, there to spend a few of the winter months, in case we should meet with the necessary refreshments, and then to direct our course to Kamts- chatka, 30 as to endeavour to be there by the middle of May the ensuing suramor. In conseqience of this re- solution, J rave Captain Gierke orders how to rv'-oeed in case of separation ; appoint mg Sandwich Islands for the first place of rendezvous, and the har- bour of Petropaulowska in Kamts- chatka for the second. Soon after we were out of the harbour, the wind veered to the SE. and ESE., which by the evening carried us as far as the western part of Oonalashka, where we got the wind at S. With this we stretched to the westward till 7 o'clock the next morning, when we wore and stood to the E. The wind by this time had increased in such a manner as to reduce us to our three courses. It blew in very heavy squalls, attend- ed with rain, nail, and snow. At 9 o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the Island of Oonaiushka bore SE., four leagues distant. We then wore and stood to the westward. The strength of the gale was now over, and towards evening the little wind that blew insensibly veered round to the £., where it continued but a short time before it got to NE. and in- creased to a very hard gale with rain. I steered first to the southward ; and as the wind inclined to the N. and NW., I steered more westerly. On ^ The justice of Captain Cook's inference has been amply demon- strated since his time by the success of those expeditions, the history uf which is familiar to all. 1! 80» COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. IV. Ch. VII. the 29tli, at half-past six in the morn- ing, we saw land extendins from E. by S. to S. by W., supposed to be the Island Amoghta. At eight, finding that we could not weather the island, as the wind had now veered to the westward, I gave over plying, and bore away for Oonalashka, with a view of going to the northward and east- ward of that island, not daring to attempt a passage to the SE. of it in *o hard a gale of wind. At the time •we bore away, the land extended from E. by S. half S. to SSW., four leagues IN SIGHT, so as to bring us under Nov. 1778. J with rain, double-reefed topsails. Tn lowering down the main-topsail to reef it, the wind tore it quite out of the foot- rope ; and it was split in several other parts. This sail had only been brought to the yard tlie day before, after having had a repair. The next morning we got another topsail to the yard. This gale proved to be the forerunner of the trade-wind, which in Latitude 25° veered to the E. and ESE. I continued to steer to the southward till daylight in the morn- ing of the 25th, at which time we were in the Latitude of 20° 55'. I :iow spread the ships^ and steered to the west. In the evening we joined, and at midniglit brought to. At daybreak next morning land was seen extend? ig from SSE. to W. We made sail and stood for it. At eight it extended from SE. half S. to W., the nearest part two leagues distant. It was sup- f»osed that we saw the extent of the and to the E., but not to the Vr. We were now satisfied that the group of the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered ; as those of them which we had visited in our progress northward all lie to the lee- ward of our prespnt station. In the country was an elevated saddle hill, whose summit appeared above the clouds. From this nill the land fell in a gentle slope, and ter- minated in a steep rocky coast, against which the sea broke in a dreadfm surf. Finding that we could not weather the island, I bore up and ranged along the coasb to the westward. It was not long before we saw people on several parts of the shore, and some houses and plantations. The country seemed to be both well wooded and watered, and running streams were seen falling into the sea in various places.. As it was of the last import- ance to procure a supply of provisions at these islands, and experience hav- ing taught me that I could have no chance to succeed in this if a free trade * To give the better chance of dis- covering the land, near which he knew that he had arrived. 80» with the natives were to be allowed, that is, if it were left to every man's discretion to trade for what he pleased and in the manner he pleased ; for this substantial reason I now pub- lished an order prohibiting all persona from trading except such as should be appointed by me and Captain Gierke, and even these were enjoined to trada only for provisions and refreshments. Women were also forbidden to be admitted into the ships, except under certain restrictions. But the evil I meant to prevent by this regulation, I soon found had already got amongst them. At noon the coast extended from S. 81° E. to N. 56° W, ; a low flat, like an isthmus, Dore S. 42° W. ; the nearest shore three pi tour miles dis- tant ; the Latitude wa: 20° 59', and the Longitude 203° 50'. Seeing some canoes coming off to us, I brought to. As soon as they got alongside, many of the people who conducted them came into the ship without the least hesitation. We found them to be of the same nation with the inhabitants of the islands more to leeward which we had already visited ; and, if we did not mistake them, they knew of our hav- ing been there. Indeed, it rather appeared too evident, for these people had got amongst them the venereal distemper, and as yet I knew of no other way of its reaching them but by an intercourse with their neighbours since our leaving them. We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle-fish for nails and pieces of iron. They brought very little fniit and root^ but told us that they had plenty of them on their island, as also hogs and fowls. In the evening, the horizon being clear to the westward, we judged the westernmost land in sight to be an island separated from that oflf which we now were. Having no doubt that the people would return to the ships next day with the produce of their country, I kept plying off all night, and in the morning stood close in shore. At first only a few of the natives visited us ; but towards noon we had the company of a good many, who brought mth them bread-fruit^ 310 potbtoes, " taro " or eddy roots, a few plantains, and small pigs, all of which they exchanged for nails and iron tools. Indeed, we had nothing else to give them. We continued trading wiui them till 4 o'clock in the after- noon, when, haying di posed of all their cargoes, and not seeming in- clined to fetch more, we made sail and stood oflf shore, w hile we were lying to, though the wind blew fresh, I observed that the ships drifted to the east; consequently there must have been a current sjtting in that direction. This encouraged me to ply to windward, with a view to get round the east end of the island, and so have the whole leeside before us. In the aftem'-on of the 30th, being off the NE. end of the island, several canoes came off to the ships. Most of these belonged to a chief named Terreeoboo, who came in one of them. He made me a present of two or three small pigs, and we got by barter from the other people a httle fruit. After a stay of about two hours they all left ns, except six or eight of their company who chose to remain on board. A double sailing canoe came soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all night. In the evening we discovered another island to wind- ward, which the natives call Owhy- hee.^ The name of that off which we had been for some days, we were also told, is Mowee. On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, Owhyhee extended from S. 22° E. to S. 12° W. ; and Mowee from N. 41° to N. 83° W. Finding that we could fetch Owhyhee, I stood for it ; and our visitors from Mowee, not choosing to accompany us, em- barked in their canoe and went ashore. At seven in the evening we were close up with the north side of Owhyhee, * Better kno'mi as Hawaii ; it is the largest of the group. Mowee is marked in the later maps as Maue Honolulu, the seat of government, is on the Island of Oahu, which in his former notice of the Sandwich Islands Cook merely mentions under the name of Woahoo (Book III., Chapter XII.). COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot TIT. B. TV. Ch. VII. where we spent the night standing off and on. In the morning of the 2d we were surprised to see uie summits of the mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. They did not appear to be of any extraordinary height ; and yet in some places the snow seemed to be of a considerable depth, and to have lain there some time. As we drew near the shore some of the natives came off to us. They were a little shy at first ; but we soon enticed some of them on board, and at last prevailed upon them to return to the island and bring off what we wanted. Soon after these reached the shore, wo had com- pany enough, and few coming empty- handed, we got a tolerable supply of small pigs, fruit, and roots. We con- timied trading with them till six in the evening, when we made sail and stood off, with aview of plying to wind- ward round the island. The cmrenl which I have mentioned as setting to the eastward had now ceased ; for we gained but little by plying. On the 6th, in the evening, being about five leagues farther up the coast, and near the shore, we had some traffic with the natives. But as it had furnished only a trifling supply, I stood in again the next morning, when we had a considerable number of visitors ; and we lay to, trading with them till two in the afternoon. By that time we had procured pork, fruit, and roots suffi- cient for four or five days. We then made sail and continued to ply to windward. Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane, and having upon a trial made but a few days before found that a strong decoction of it produced a veiy palatable beer, I ordered some more to be brewed for our general use. But when the cask was now broached not one of my crew would even so much as taste it. As I had no motive in preparing this beverage but to save our spirit for a colder climate, I gave myself no trouble, either by exerting authority or by having recourse to Sersuasion, to prevail upon them to rink it, knowing that there was no danger of the scurvy so long as we could get a plentiful supply of other ''II. ;off 2d Imits jered |ar to and smed id to 8 we .tivea eshy me of ailed dand after com- smpty- iply of '^e con- Deo. 1778.] vegetables. EFFORTS TO PRESERVE HEALTH OF CRE'W-S. 311 But that 1 migul not be disappointed in my views, I gave orders that no grog should be served in either ship. I myself and the officers continued to make use of this eugar-cane beer whenever wo could fet materials for brewing it. A few ops, of which we had some on board, impr ved it much. It has the taste of new malt beer, and I believe no one will doubt of its being very whole- some. And yet my incor.aiderate crew tfUeged that it was injurious to their health. They had no better reason to support a resolution which they took on our first arrival in King George's [Nootka] Sound, not to drink the spruce-beer made there. But whether from a consideration that it was not the first time of their being required to use that liquor, or from some other reason, they aid not attempt to carry their purpose into actual execution ; and I had never heard of it till now, when they renewed their ignorant op- position to my best endeavours to serve them. Every innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so inuch to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest disapproba- tion. Both portable soup and sour krout' were at first condemned as stuff unfit for human beings. Few commanders have introduced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of food and drink, than I have done. Indeed few commanders have had the same opportunities of trying such experiments, or been driven to the same necessity of trying them. It has, however, been in a great measure owing to various little deviations from established practice that I have been able to preserve my people, generally speaking, from that dreadful dis- temper the scurvy, which has perhaps * Oook on hJs s.^cond voyage took a quantity of t" fa ith him. He de- scribes it as oabbage cut small, to which is put a little salt, juniper-berries, ana aniseed ; it is then fermented, and close iiacked in casks, where it will keep a long time, retaining its virtues as a wholosome vegetable food And a great anti-scorbutic. destroyed more of our sailors in their peaceful voyages than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. I kept at some distance from the coast till the 13th, when I stood in again six leagues farther to windward than we had as yet reached ; and after having some trade with the natives who visited us, returned to sea. I should have got near the shore again on the 15th for a supply of fruit or roots, but the wind happening to h« at SE. by S. and SSE., I thought thig a good time to stretch to the eastward, in order to get round, or at least to get a sight of the south-east end of the island. The wind continued at SE. by S. most part of the 16th. It was variable between S. and E. on the 17th, and on the 18th it was con« tinually veering from one quarter to another, blowing sometimes in hard squalls, and at other times calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the afternoon we had the wind westerly for a few hours, but in the evening it shifted to E. by S., and we stood to the southward close-hauled, under an easy sail, as the Discovery was at some distance astern. At this time the south-east point of the island bore SW. by S., about five leagues dis- tant ; and I made no doubt that I should be able to weather it. But at 1 o'clock next morning it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a north-easterly swell which impelled us fast toward the land ; so that long before daybreak we saw lights upon the shore, which was not more than a league distant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain. At 3 o'clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze from E. blowing in squalls, with rail. We stood to the NE., thinking j.1; the best tack to clear the coast ; but if it had been daylight, we should have chosen the other. At daybreak the coast was seen extend* ing from N. by "W. to SW. by W., a dreadful surf breaking upon the shore, which was not more than half-a-lcague distant. It was evident that we had been in the most imminent danger. iTor were we yet in safety, the wind veering more easterly, so that for som« 312 COOK'S VOYAGES. time we did but just keep our distance from the coast. What made our situ- ation more alarming was the leach- rope of the main-topsail giving way, which was the occasion of the sail's being rent in two ; and the two top- gallant-sails gave way in the same manner, though not half worn out. By taking a mvourable opportunity, we soon got others to the yards, and then we left the land astern. The Discovery, by being at some distance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see her till 8 o'clock. As soon as daylight appeared the natives ashore displayed a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friendship. Some of them ventured out after us, but the wind freshening, and it not being safe to wait, they were soon left astern. In the afternoon, after making another attempt to weather the eastern ex- treme, which failed, I gave it up and ran down to the Discoveiy. Indeed it was of no consequence to get round the isla :d, for we nad seen its extent to the south-east, which was the thing I aimed at ; and according to the in- formation which we had ^ot from the natives, there is no other island to the windward of this. However, as we were so near the south end of it, and ns the least shift of wind in our favour would serve to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the idea of weather- ing it, and therefore continued to ply. On the 20th at noon this south-east point bore S. three leagues distant, the snowy hills "WNW., and we were about four miles from the nearest shore. In the afternoon some of the natives came in their canoes, bring- ing with them a few pigs and plan- tains. The latter were very acceptable, having had no vegetables for some jdays ; but the supply we now received was so inconsiderable, being barely sufficient for one day, that I stood in again the next morning till within three or four miles of the land, where we were met by a number of canoes laden with provisions. "We brought to and continued trading with the people in them till four in the after- aoon, when, having got a prttty good [VoY.III.B,iy.CH.Vn. supply, we made sail and stretched off to the northward. I had never met with a behaviour so f-ee from reserve and suspicion in m; intercourse with any tribes of savages as we experienced in the people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought off for barter ; afterwards they would come in themselves and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, do not care to put so much confidence in us. I infer from this that those of Owhyhee must be more faithful in their dealings with one another than the inhabitants of Otaheite are. For if little faith were observed amongst themselves they would not be so ready to trust stran- gers. It is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never once attempted to chea*; us in ex- changes, nor to commit p ' '■•eft. They understand trading as well as most people, and seemed to comprehend clearly the reason of our plying upon the coast. For though they brought off provisions in great plenty, particu- larly pigs, yet they kept up their price ; and rather than dispose of them for less than they thought they were worth, would take them ashore again. On the 22d, a . eight in the morn- ing, we tacked to the southward, with a fresh breeze at E. by N. At noon the Latitude was 20° 28' 30", and the snowy peak bore SW. half S. We had a good view of it the preceding day, and the quantity of snow seemed to have increased and to extend lower down the hill. I stood to the SE. till midnight, then tacked to the N. till four in the morning, when we re- turned to the SE. tack; and as the wind was at NE. by E., we had hopes of weathering the island. We should have succeeded if the wind had not died away and left us to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fast toward the land, which was not two leagues distant. At length we got our head off, and some light puffs of wind, which came with showers of rain, put us out of danger. While Deo, 1778.] RESOLUTION GETS TO V7INDWARD OF OWHYHEE. 313 WP lay, as it were, becalmed, several of the islanders came off with hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots. Out of one canoe we got a goose, which was about the size of a Muscovy duck ; its plum- age was dark grey, and the bill and legs black. At four in the afternoon, after pnr- cTinsing everything that the natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had occasion for, we made sail and stretched to the N., with the windatENE. At midnight we tacked and stood to the SE. Upon a suppo- sition that the Discovery woula see us tack, the signal was omitted ; but she did not see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to the N., for at daylight next morning she was not in sight. At this time, the weather being hazy, we could not see far, so that it was possible the Dis- covery might be following us; and being past the north-east part of the island I was tempted to stand oij till, by the wind veering to NE., we could not weather the land upon the other tack. Consequently we could not stand to the Nt to join or look for the Discovery. At noon we were by ob- servation in the Latitude of 19° 55' and in the Longitude of 205* 3' ; the south-east point of the island bore S. by E. quarter E., six leagues distant ; the other extreme bore N. 60° W., and we were two leases from the nearest shore. At six m the evening the southernmost extreme of the island bore SW., the nearest shore seven or eight mUes distant, so that we had now succeeded in getting to the wind- ward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much perseverance. The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen ; but the 'vv md, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded that it would not be long before she joined us. I therefore kept cruising off this south- east point of the island, which lies in the Latitade of 19° 84' and in the Longitude of 205° 6', till I was satis- fied that Captain Clerke could not t'oin me here. I now conjectured that le had not been able to weather the Qorth-east part of the island, and had gone to leeward in order to meet me that way. As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, no canoes ex- cept one came off to us till the 28th, when we were visited by a dozen or fourteen. The people who conducted them brought, as usual, the produce of the island. I was very sorry that they had taken the trouble to come so far. For we could not trade with them, our old stock not being as yet consumed ; and we had found by late experience that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor the roots preserved from putrefaction many days. How- ever, I intended not to leave this part of the island before I got a supply, as it would not be easy to return to it agit..n in case it should be found neces- sary. We began to be in want on the 80 th, and I would have stood in near the shore but was prevented by a calm; but a breeze springing up at midnight from S. and SW., we were enabled to stand in for the land at daybreak. At 1 o'clock in the morn- ing we were met by the islanders with fruit and roots, but in all the canoet were only three small pigs. Our not having bought those which had been lately brought off may be supposed to be the reason of this very scanty supply. We brought to for the pur- poses of trade, but soon after our marketing was interrupted by a very hard rain, and besides we were rather too far from the shore. Nor durst 1 go nearer, for I could not depend upon the wind's remaining where it was for a moment ; the swell also being high, and setting obliquely upon the shore, againsi; which it broke in a frightful surf. In the evening the weather mended, the night was clear, and it was spent in making short boards. Before daybreak the atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds, and the New Year was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued at intervals till past 10 o'clock. The wind was southerly, a light breeze with some calms. When the rain ceased, the sky cleared and the breeze freshened. Being at this time about five miles from the land, several 814 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot.III.B.IV.Ch.VIL canoes arriyed with fruit and roots, and nt last some hogs were brought off. ,We lay to, trading with them, till 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable supply, we made sail with a view of proceeding to the north-west or leeside of the island, to look for the Discovery. It was necessary, however, the wind being at S. , to stretch first to the eastward, till midnight, when the wind came more favourable, and we went upon the other tack. For several days past both wind and weather had been ex- ceedingly unsettled, and there fell a preat deal of rain. The three follow- ing days were spent in running down the soutli-east side of the island. For during the nights we stood off and on, and part of each day was employed in lying to, in order to furnish an opportunity to the natives of trading with us. They sometimes came on board while we were five leagues from the shore ; but whether from a fear of losing their goods in the sea, or from the uncertainty of the market, they never brought much with them. The principal article procured was salt, which was extremely good. On the 5th, in the morning, 'we passed the south point of the island, wliich lies in the Latitude of 18° 54', and beyond it we found the coast to trend N. 60° W. On this point stands a pretty large village, the in- habitants of which thronged off to the ship with hogs and women. It was not possible to keep the latter from coming on board ; and no women I ever met with were less reserved. Indeed it appeared to me that they visited us with no other view than to make a surrender of their persons. As I had now got a quantity of salt, I purchased no hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were under size. However we could seldom get any above fifty or sixty pounds weight. It was happy for us that we still had some vegetables on board, for we now received few such produc- tions. Indeed this part of the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording them. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano everywhert presented themselves ; and though we had as yet seen nothing like one upon the island, the devastation that it had made in this neighbourhood was visible to the naked eye.* Thia part of the coast is sheltered from the reigning winds ; but we could find no Dottom to anchor upon, a line of 160 fathoms not reaching it, within the distance of half- a -mile from the shore. The islanders having all left ua towards the evening, we ran a few miles down the coast, and then spont the night standing off and on. Thenextmoming the natives visi tod us again, bringing with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being now near the shore, I sent Mr Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to land and to look for fresh water. Upon his return he reported that at two cables' length from the shore he had found no sound- ings'with a line of 160 fathoms ; that when he landed he found no stream or spring, but only rain water de- posited in holes upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea; and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of slags and ashes, with a few plants here and there interspersed. Between ten and eleven we saw with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the island ; and at one in the afternoon she joined ns. Captain Gierke then coming on board, in- formed me that he had cruised four or five days where we were separated, and then plied round the east side of the island ; but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been car- ried to some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on board all this time, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to quit the ship though opportunities had offered. Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in again * Several volcanoes are still active in the islands ; and two of them, Morena Loa and Morena Kea, rise to the very respectable altitude of soiQe 16.000 feet. Jak. 1779.] VAST CONCOURSE the next morning, and when we were abont a league from the shore many of the natives visited us. At daybreak on the 8th we found that the currents during the night, which we spent in plying, had carried us back considerably to windward ; so that we were now oflF the south- west point of the island. There we brought to, in order to give the na- tives an opportunity of trading with us. We spent the night as usual, standing off and on. It happened that four men and ten women who had come on board the preceding day still remained with us. As I did not like the company of the latter, I stood inshore towards noon, princi- pally with a view to get them out of the ship, and some canoes coming off I took that opportunity of sending away our guests. We had light airs from NW. and SW., and calms, till eleven in the morning of the 10th, when the wind freshenel at WNW., which, with a strong Current setting to the SE., so much retarded us that in the evening between 7 and 8 o'clock the south point of the island bore N. 104° W., four leagues distant. The south snowy hill now bore N. 14° E. At four in the morning of the 11th, the wind having fixed at W., I stood in for the land in order to get some refreshments. As we drew near the shore the natives began to come off. We lay to, or stood on and off, trad- ing with them all the day, but got a very scanty supply at last. Many canoes visited us whose people had not a single thing to barter, which convinced us that this part of the .island must be very poor, and that we had already got all that they could spare. We spent the 12th ply- ing off and on, with a fresh gale at W. A mile from the si. ore, ana to the NE. of the south point of the island, having tried soundings, we found ground at fifty-five fathoms depth, the bottom a fine sand. At five in the evening we stood to the SW., with the wind at WNW., and soon after midnight we had a calm. At 8 o'clock next morning, having got a OF THE NATIVES. 815 small breeze at SSE., W(> steered to the NNW. in for the land. Soon after, a few canoes came alongside with some hogs, but without any vegetables, which articles we most wanted. We had Tiow made some progress ; for at noon the south point of the island bore S. 864° E., the south-west point N. 13° W., the nearest shore two leagues distant. Latitude by observation 18° 66', and our Longitude by the timekeeper 203° 40'. We had got the length of the south-west point of the island in the evening ; but the wind now veer- ing to the westward and northward, during the night we lost all that we had gained. Next morning, being still off the south-west point of the island, some canoes, came off, but they brought nothing that we were in want of. We had now neither fruit nor roots, and were under a necessity of making use of some of oar sea provi- sions. At length some canoes from the northward brought us a small supply of hogs and roots. We had variable light airs, next to a calm, tlie following day, till five in the afternoon, when a small breeze at ENE. springing up, we wa-e at last enabled to steer along shore to the northward. The weather being fine, we had plenty of company this day, and abundance of everything. Many of our visitors remained with us on board all night, and we towed their canoes astern. At daybreak ou the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, I sent Mr Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time tlu'ee leagues off. Canoes now began to arrive from all parts, so that before 10 o'clock, there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs and other productions of the island. We had the most satisfying proof of their friendly intentions, for we did not see a single person who had with him a weapon of any sort. Trade and curiosity alone had brought them off. Among such numbers as we had at times on board, it is no wonder that some should betray a thievish dia- SI 6 position. One of our visitors took out of the ship a boat's rudder. He was discovered, but too late to recover it. I thought this a good opportunity to show these people the use of fire-arms ; and two or thrno muskets, and as many four-pounders were fired over the canoe which carried off the rudder. As it was not intended that any of the shot should take effect, the sur- rounding multitude of natives seemed i:ather more surprised than frightened. In the evening, Mr Bligh returned and reported that he had found .\ bay in which was good anchorage and fresb water, in a situation tolerably easy to be come tat. Into this bay I resolved to carry the ships, there to refit and supply ourselves with every refreshment that the place could afford. As night approached, the greater part of our visitors retired to the shore ; but numbers of them re- quested our permission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at least with some ; for the nest morning several things were missing, which determined me not to entertain so many another night. At 11 o'clock in the forenoon we anchored in the bay (which is called by the natives Karakakooa),^ in thir- teen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom, and about a quarter of a mile from the north-east shore. In this situation the south point of the bay bore S. by W. , and the north point W. half N. We moored with the stream anchor and cable to the north- ward, unbent the soils, and struck the yards and topmasts. The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. I had nowhere in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a bocTy- of people assembled in one place. For besides those who * It lies on the west side of Owhy- hee or Hawaii, near the southem extremity of the island. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. ITT. B. IV. Ch. VII. had come off to ua in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish, we could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed our hav- ing it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.' ' With these ardently confident ex- pressions of hopefulness, and of most justifiable saasiaction in the past and prospective achievements of the voy- age — so vividly in contrast with the calamity that imminently impended — Captain Cook's journal closes. The third volume of the Original Edition, written by Captain King, and consist- ing, with appendices, of between 500 and 600 pages (equal to at least 250 pages of the present edition), recounts in two books, V. and VI., the trans- actions on returning to the Sandwich Islands," and the "transactions dur- ing the second jxpedition to the north by the way of Kamtbchatka ; and on the return home by the way of Can- ton and the Cape of Good Hope." As the death of Captain Cook dimin- ishes notably the interest of the voyage in its sequel, despite the elaborate and curious descriptions of Kamts- chatka and the Kamtschadales — and as there is little or nothing in the homeward route, that has not been perhaps more vividly described in the narratives of the older navigators, — only that part of Captain King's vol- ume is here given, which relates to the mouniful events in Earakakooa Bay. ' Jan. 1779.] DESCRIPTION OF KARAKAKOOA BAY. 317 B K V. CAPTAIN king's JOURNAL OP THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNINa TO THE 8ANUWICH ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. Earakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the Island of Owhyhee, in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low points of land at the dis- tance of half-a-league, and bearing SSE. and NNW. from each other. On the north point, which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kow- rowa^ and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another village of a more considerable size 'called Kakooa : be- tween them runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea shore. On the south side, the coast, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance ; beyond which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and lo cr?r«p^e?.d with cultivated enclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habita- tions of the natives are scattered in great numbers. The.shore all around the bay is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather ; except at the village of Kakooa, where there is aline sandy beach, with a " morai," or burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at the other. This bay appearing to Cap- tain Cook a proper place to refit the ships, and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, we moored on the north side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, Kowrowa bear- ing NW. As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the shore in aston- ishing numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and shouting and exliibiting a variety of wild and ex- travagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of both ships were suon completely covered with them ; and a multitude of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming round us in shoals, many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day play- ing in the water. Among the cniefs who came on beard the Resolution was a young man called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a j)er8on of great authority. On presenting him- self to Captain Cook, he told him that he was Jakanee^ to the King of the island, who was at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four days". A few presents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to us in the management of his countrymen, Z.3 we had soon occasion to experience. For we had not been long at anchor when it was observed that the Dis- covery had such a number of people hanging on one side, as occasioned her to heel considerably ; and that the men were unable to keep off the crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook, being apprehen- sive that she might suffer some injury; pointed out the danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared the ship of its incumbrances, and drove away the canoes that sur- rounded her. The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared from this incident to be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance of it hap- pened the same day on board the Re- solution, where the crowd being so 1 We afterward met with several others of the same denomination ; but whether it be an ofiice, or some de- gree of affinity, we could never learu wi th certainty. —iVofe in Onginal Edi' iiun. 318 COOK'S VOYAGES. great ns to inipedo the noccssury busi- nesa of tbo shii), we were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who ha/d likewise attached himself to Cap- tain Cook. The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he immediately ordered his country- men to q^uit the vessel ; and we were not a little surprised to see them i'ump overboard without a moment's lesitation, all except one man, who loitering bohind and showing some unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms and threw him into the sea. Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned bodies, and of countenances remark- ably pleasing. Kaneena especially was one of the finest men I ever saw. He was about six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with lively, dark eyes ; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. It has been already mentioned that during our long cruise off this island the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairness and honesty in their dealings, and had not shown the slightest propensity to theft ; which appeared to us the more ex- traordinary, because those with whom we had hitherto held any in -course were of the lowest rank, eithe» vants or fisherman. We now founa the cose exceedingly altered. The immense crowd of islanders which blocked up every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering without risk of discoveir, but our inferiority in number held forth a prospect of escaping with in!, punity in case of detection. Anottier circumstance to which we attribute^ this alteration in their behavioi'!', was the presence and encouragement of their chiefs ; for, generally tracing the booty into ^he possession of some men of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect that these depredations were committed at their instigation. Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board « third chief uouiud Koah, who, wo [VoY.III.KV.Cii.I. woru told, WHS a priest, and hml lucn in his youth a dlBtinguished wiiii ior. He was a little old man, of an einaci* ated figure ; his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous scurf, the efl'ecta of an immoderate use of the "ava." Being led into the cabin, he ap- proached Captain Cook with great veneration, and throw over his shoul- ders a piece of red cloth which he had brought along with him. Then step- ping a few paces back, he made an offering of a small pig which he held in his hand, whilst lie pronounced a discourse that lasted for a consider- able time. This ceremony was fre- quently repeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us from many circumstances to he a sort of religious adoration. Their idols we found always arrayed with red cloth in the same manner as was done to Captain Cook ; and a small pig was their usual offering to the •' Eatooos." Their speeches, or prayers, were uttered, too, with a readiness and volubility that indicated them to be according to some formulary. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was set before Jiim ; but, like the rest of the inhr.oitants of tue '"Unds in these seas, could scarcely -availed on to taste a second time our wiuv. or spirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by Mr Bayly and myself, accompanied him on shore. We landed at the beach, and were received by four men who carried wands tipped with dog's hair, and r,r ft ihed before us, pronouncing with a J^ud voice a short sentence, in V nich we could only distinguish the jvord "Orono."^ The crowd which ^ Captain Cookgenerally went by this name amongst the natives of Owhyhee ; but we coiud never learn its precise meaning. Sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, lived in the heavens. We also found that it was a title belonging to a per< sonage of great rank and power in the island, who resembles pretty much the Delai Lama of tho Tartan^ II. 1. iMM'll Jan. 1779.] CKHEMONIES AT had been collected on the shore re- tired at our approach, and not a per- son was to be seen, except a few Iving prostrate on the ground near the nuts of the adjoining village. Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain Ck)ok, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he waa received on this fatal island, it will be liecettiiary to describe the " moral," situated, aa I have already mentioned, at the south side of the beach at Eakooa. It was a square, solid pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was fiat and well-paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the sculls of the captives sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the centre of the area stood a ruinous old build- ing of wood, connected with the rail on each side by a stone wall. which divided the whole sp-ra into two parts. On the side next the country were five poles, upward of twenty feet high, supporting aa irregular kind of Bcafi'old ; on the opposite side, towards the sea, stood two small houses with • covered communication. We were conducted by Eoah to ' top of this pile by an easy asce.;. leading from the beach to the north- west comer of the area. At the en- trance we saw two large wooden images, with features violently dis- torted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, rising from the top of their heads; the rest was without form, and wrap- ped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with a long board, who presented Captain Cook to the images, and after chant- ing a kind of hymn, in which he was jomed b/ Eoah, thev led us to that end of tne "moral where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them were twelve images ranged in a semi- circular form, and before the middle figure stood a high stand or table, exactiy resembling the "whatta" of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, CODE'S LANDING. 819 and the Er'>lpRiastical Emperor Japan. — Note in Ory/inal Edition. of and under it pieces of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantoins, and sweet potatoes. Koah having placed the Captain under this stand, took down tne hog and held it toward him ; and after having a second time addressed him in a long speech, pro- nounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him to the scafiblding, which they began to climb together, not without great risk of falling. At this time we saw, coming in solemn pro- cession, at the entrance of the top of the "■morai," ton men carnring a live hog and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced a few paces, they stopped and prostrated themselves; and Eaireekeea, the young man above mentioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth, carried it to Eoah, who wrapped it round the Captain, and afterwards offered him the hog, which was brought by Eaireekeea, with the same ceremony. Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in this awkward situation, swathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongst the pieces of rotten scaffolding, Eaireekeea and Eoah began their office, chanting sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately. This lasted a consider- able time ; at length Eoah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain descended together. Ha then led him to the images before mentioned, and having said something to each in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he brought him to that in the centre, which, from its being covered with red cloth, appeared to be in greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he prostrated himself, and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook to do the same, who suffered himself to be directed by Eoah throughout the whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the other division of the ' ' morai, " where there was a space ten or twelve feet square, sunk about three feet below the level of the area. Into this we descended, and Captain Cook was seated between two wooden idols, Eoah supporting one of his arms, 320 COOK'S rOYAGM [\ OY. HI. B. V. Oh. X, whilst T WM desired to support the other. At this time arrived a second procession of natives, carrying a baked hog and a pudding, itome bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea put hiraseli at their head, and presenting the pig to Cap- tain Cook in the usual manner, began the same kind of chant as before, iiis companions making regular responses. We observed that after every response their parts became gradually shorter, till towards the close ^E^aireekeea's consisted of only two or three words, which the rest answered by the word "Orono." When this oflfering waa concluded, which lasted a quarter of an hour, the natives sat down fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts; whilst others employed themselves in brewing the "ava," which is done by chewing it in the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the Captain's face, head, hands, arms, and shoul- ders. The "ava" was then handed round, and after we had tasted it, Koah and Paroea began to pull the flesh of the hog in pieces, and to put it into our mouth 9. 1 had no great objec- tion to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person ; but Cap- tain Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not swallow a re jrsel ; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not dimin- ished, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. When this last ceremony waa finished, which Cap- tain Cook put an end to as soon as he decently could, we quitted the "moral," after distributing amongst the people some pieces of iron and other trifles, with which they seemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted us to the boats, repeating the same words as beforfe. The people again retired, and the few that remained prostrated themselves as we passed along the shore. W© immediately went on board, our minds full of what we had seen, and ex- ti-emely well satisfied with the good dispositions of our new friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies with wmch we had been received, and which, on account of their novelty and singularity, have been related at len^h, can only be the subject of conjectures, and those uncertain and Sartial ; they were, however, without oubt, expressive of high respect on the part of the natives, and as &r as related to the person of Captain Cook they seemed approaching to adora* tion. The next morning I went on shore with a guard of eight marines, includ- ing the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the observatory in such a situation as might best enable me to superintend and protdct the waterers and the other working parties that were to be on shore. As we were viewing a spot conveniently situated for this purpose in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready to show both his power and his goodwill, offered to pull down some houses that would have obstructed our observations. However, we thought it proper to decline this oflfer, and fixed on a field of sweet potatoes ad- joining to the "raorai," which waa readily granted us ; and the priests, to prevent the intrusion of the natives, immediately consecrated the place by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was enclosed. This sort of religious interdiction they call " ta- boo," a word we heard often repeated during our stay amongst these island- ers, and found to be of veiy powerful and extensive operation. It procured us even more privacy than we desired. No canoes ever presumed to land near us; the natives sat on the wall, but none ofiered to come within thd tabooed space till he had obtained our permission. But though the men, at our request, would come across tha field with provisions, yet not all our endeavom'd could prevail on the women to approach us. Presents were tried, but without effect; Pareea and Koah Jh.I. Jan, 17790 were tempted to brin^ them, but in vain; we were invanably answered that the "Eatooa" and Terreooboo (which was the name of their King) would kill them. This circumstance afforded no small matter of amuse- ment to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to flock thitlier, obliged them almost every hour to clear the vessel in order to have room to do the necessary duties of the ship. On these occasions 200 or 300 women were frequently made to jump into the water at once, where they continued swimming and play- ing about till they could again pro- cure admittance. From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part of the island, nothing very material happened on board. The calkers were set to work on the sides of the ships, and the rigging was care- fully overnauled and repaired. The salting of hogs for sea-store was also ft constant and one of the principal objects of Captain Cook's attentions. It has generally been thought imprac- ticable to cure the flesh of animals by salting in tropical climates, the pro- gress of putrefaction being so rapid as not to allow time for the salt to take (as they express it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the eflect of the pickle. We do not find that experiments relative to this subject havft been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In his first trials, which were mnde in 1774 during his second vovage to the Pacific Ocean, the success he u,etwith, though very Imperfect;, was yet suffi- cient to convince aim of the error of the received opinion. As the voyage in which he was now eagjiged was likely to be protracted a year Iwyond the time for which t^^ ships had been victualled, he was under the necessity of providing by somo such ma for the subsistence of the c «»V8, or of relinquishing the fur- ther prosecution of his discoveries. He therefore lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the A SOCIETY OP PRIESTS. 821 event answared his most sanguin* expectations.^ I shall now return to our transac- tions on shore at the observatory, where we had not been long settled before we-discovered in our neighbour- hood the habitations of a society of priests, whose regiilar attendance at the ' ' moral " had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which separ- ated them from the beach and the rest of the vill^, and ^ve the place an air of religious retirement. On my acquainting Captain Cook with theiie circumstances, he resolved to pay them a visit. On his arrival at the beach he was conducted to a sacred building called Harre-no-Orono or the house of Orono, and seated before the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol of the same kind with those on the "moral." I was here again made to support one of his arms, and after wrapping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priests, made an offering of a pig with the usual solem? ities. The Eig was then strangled, and a fire eing kindled, it was thrown into the embers ; and after the hair was singed off it was again presented, with a repetition of the chanting in the man- ner before described. The dead pig was then held for a short time under the Captain's nose, after which it was laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the performers sat down. The "ava" "as then brewed and handed round, a fat hog ready dressed was brought in, and we were fed as be- fore. During the vest of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Cap- tain Cook came on shore he was at- tended by one of these priests, who went before him giving notice that * After describing the process. King says : *• I brought home with me some barrels of this pork which was pickled at Owhyhee in January 1779, and was tasted by several persons in England about Christmas 1780, and found perfectly soundand wholesome." 822 COOK'S VOYAGES. the "Orono" had landed, aud order- to their mg the people to prostrate themselves. The same person also constantly ac- Gom^nied him on the water, stand- ing in the bow of the boat with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives who were in canoes, on which they imme- diately left ofiF paddling and lay down on their faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the observa- tory, Eaireekeea and his brethren im- mediately made their appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c., and presented them with the usual solem- nities. It was on these occasions that some of the inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an oflEering to the ' * Orono. " When this was granted, they presented the hog themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances, whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their accustomed hymns. The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on shore re- ceived from them every day a constant supply of hogs and vegetables more than sufficient for our subsistence, and several canoes loaded with pro- visions were sent to the ships with the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded or even hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents were made with a regularity more like the discharge of a religious duty than the effect of mere liberality ; and when we inquired at whose cliarge all this munificence was displayed, we were told it was at the expense of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priests and grandfather to Kairee- keea, who was at that time absent attending the King of the island. As everything relating to the char- acter and behaviour of this people must be interesting to the reader on account of the tragedy that was after- wards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him that we hod not always to much reason to be satisfied with the conduct of tlie warrior chiefs, or " Eareos," as with that of the priests. In all our dealings with the former we found them sufficiently attentive [\oy.III.B.V.CHj. own interests ; and besides their habit of stealing, which majr ad- mit of some excuse from the univer- sality of the practice amongst the islanders of these seas, they made use of other artifices equally dishonour- able. I shall only mention one in- stance, in which we discovered with regret our friend Eoah to be a party pnncipally concerned. As the chiefs who brought us presents of hogs wre always sent back handsomely reward- ed, we had generally a greater supply than we comd make use of. On tnese occasions Koah, who never failed in his attendance on us, used to beg such as we did not want, and they were always given to him. It one day happened that a pig was presented us by a man whom Koah himself intro- duced as a chief who was desirous of paying his respects ; and we recollected the pig to be the same that had been given to Koah just before. This lead- ing us to suspect some trick, we found, on further inquiry, the pretended chief to be an ordinary person ; and on connecting this with other circum- stances, we nad reason to suspect that it was not the first time we nad been the dupes of the like imposition. Things continued in this state till the 24tn, when we were a good deal surprised to find that no canoes were suffered to put off from the shore, and that the natives kept close to their houses. After several hours' suspense, we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourse with us interdicted, on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. As we had not fore- seen an accident of this sort, the crews of both ships were obliged to pass the day without their usual supplv of vegetables. The next morning, there- fore, they endeavoured both by threats and promises to induce the natives to come alongside ; and as some of them were at last venturing to put oft", a chief was observed attempting to drive them away. A musket was immedi- ately fired Over his head to make him desist, which had the desired effect, and refreshments were soon after pur- chased as usual. In the afternoon Terreeoboo arrived, and visited the .1. ■4 Jan. 1779.] TERREEOBOO, KING OF THE ISLAND. 823 ships in a private maimer, attended only by one canoe in which were his wife and children. He stayed on board till near 10 o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa. The next day about noon the King, in a large canoe attended by two others, set out from the village and paddled toward the ships in great state. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first canoe were Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dr&ss- ed in their rich feathered cloths and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers ; in the second came the veneraWe Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered with small feathers of various colours wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the centre ; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vege- tables. As they went along the priests in the centre canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity ; and after pad- dling round the ships, instead of going on board as was expected, they made toward the shore at the beach where we were stationed. As soon as I taw them approaching I ordered out iT'iv Httle guard to receive the King ; 1 V d Captain Cook, perceiving that he V8 ^'omg on shore, followed him and &;f i^'jd nearly at the same time. We i((,i< aicted them into the tent, where 'uey had scarcely been seated when vvfl "'lug rose up and in a very grace- ful .nannor threw over the Captain's • ioulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into his hand. Ho also spread at his feet five or six other clonks, all exceedingly beautiful and of the greatest value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the ceDmony was concluded by the King's exchanging names with Captain Cook, wluch amonmt all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean is esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. A procession of priests, with a venerable old personage at their head, now ap- peared, followed by a long train of men leading large hogs, and others carrying plantains, sweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and gestures of Kaireekeea I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priests before mentioned, on whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He had a Eiece of red cloth in his hands, which e wrapped round Captain Cook's shoulders, and afterward presented him with a small pig in the usual form. A seat was then made for him next to the King, after which Kairee- keea and his followers began their cere- monies, Kaoo and the chiefis joining in tlie responses. I was surprised to see in the person of this King the same infirm and emaciated old man that came on board the Resolution when we were oflf the north-east side of the Island of Mowee ; and we soon discovered amongst his attendants most of the persons who at that time had remained with us all night. Of this number were the two younger sons of the King, the eldest of whom was sixteen years of age, and his nephew Mailia-Maiha, whom at first we had some difficulty in recol- lecting, his hair being plastered over with a dirty brown paste and powder which was no mean heightening to the most savage face I ever beheld. As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over. Captain Cook car- ried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. They were received with every mark of respect that could be shown them; and Captain Cook, in return for the feathered cloak, put a linen shirt on the King, and girt his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half-a-dozen more old chiefs, remained on shore and took up their abode at the priests' houses. During all this time not a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives either kept within their huts ioi COOK'S VOYAGES. or lay prostrate on the ground. Be- fore the King left the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and trade with the ships as usual ; but the women, for what reason we could not learn, still continued under the effects of the "taboo," that is, were forbidden to stir from home or to have any com- municatiou with us. CHAPTER II. Trb quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having t ■ "i.i away every apprehension of dangt . 'd not hesitate to trust oursei. ongst them at all times and in situa- tions. The officers of both ships went daily up the country in small parties, orevensingly.andfrequentlyremained out the whole night. It would be endless to recount all the instances of kindness and civility which we re- ceived upon those occasions. Wher- ever we went the people flocked about us, eager to offer every assis^^ance in their power, and highly gratified if their services were accepted. Various little arts were practised to attract our notice or to delay our departure. The boys and girls i-an before as we walked through their villages, and stopped us at every opening where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one time we were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk or some other refreshment, under the shade of their huts ; at another we were seated within a circle of young women, who exerted all their skill and agility to amuse us with songs and dances. The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hospitality was, however, frequently inteiiupted by that propensity to stealing which they have m commou with all the other islanders of these seas. This circumstance was tlio more distressing as it sometimes obliged us to have recourse to acts of severity which we should willingly have avoided if the necessity of the case had not absolutely called for them. Some of their most [Vot.III.B.V.Ch.II. were one day di8< expert swimmers covered under the ships drawing out the filling-nails of the sheathing, which they performed very dexter- ously by means of a short stick with a flint stone flxed in the end of it. To put a stop to this practice, which endangered the very existence of the vessels, we at first fired small shot at the offenders ; but they easily got out of our reach by diving under the ship's bottom. It was therefore found necessary to make an example by flogging one of them on boai-d the Discovery. About this time a lar^ party of gentlemen from both ships set out on an excursion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of examin- ing its natural productions. [This] afforded Eaoo a fresh opportunity of showing his attention and generosity. For as soon as he was informed of their departure, ho sent a large supply of provisions after them, together witli orders that the inhabitants of the country through whicli they were to pass should give them every assistance in their power. And to complete the delicacy and disinterestedness of his conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on to accept the smallest present. After remain- ing out six daj's our officers returned without having being able to penetrate above twenty miles into the island ; partly from want of proper guides, and partly from the impracticability of the country. The head of the Resolution's rudder being found exceedingly shaken, and most of the pintles either loose or broken, it was unhung and sent on shore, on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough repair. At the same time the carpenters were sent into the country, under conduct of some of Kaoo's people, to cut plunks for the head rail-work, which was also entirely decayed and rotten. On the 28th Captain Gierke, whose ill health confined him for the most part on board, paid Terreeoboo his first visit at his hut on shore. He was received with the same formalities as were ob- served witi' Caplaiu Cook ; aud oo Jan, 1779.] A BOXING-MATCH. his coining away, though the visit was quite unexpected, he received a present of thirty large hogs and as much fruit and roots as his crew could consume in a week As we had not yet seen anything of their sports or athletic exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our officers, entertained us this evening with a boxing-matuh. Though these games were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity and magnificence, as in the skill and powers of the com- batants, to what we had seen exhibited at the Friendly Islands, yet as they differed in some particulars, it may not be improper to give a short account of them, "We found a vast concourse cf people assembled on a level spot of ground at a little distance from our tents, A long space was le^ft vacant in the midst of thera, at the upper end of which sat the judges, under three standards, from which hung slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of two wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches of feathers. When the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came forward slowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and draw- ing their hands along the soles. As they approached, they frequently eyed each other from head to foot in a con- temptuous manner, casting several arch looks at the spectators, straining their muscles, and using a variety of affected gestures. Being advanced within reach of each other, they stood with both arms held out straight be- fore their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They struck iu what appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full swing of the arm ; made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary s attack by an inclina- tion of the bodv or by retreating. The battlewasquicklydecided ; for if either of them was knocked down, or oven fell by accident, he was considered as vanquished, and the victor expressed his triumph by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was in- tended, a loud laugh among the spec- tators. He then waited for a second 825 antagonist ; and if again victorious, for a third, till he was at last in his turn defeated. A singular rule ob- served in these combats is, that whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person may step in and choose either of them for his antagonist, when the other is obliged to withdraw. Some- times three or four followed each other in this manner before the match was settled. When the combat proved longer than usual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally stepped in and ended it by putting a stick between the combatonts. The same good humour was preserved throughout which we before so much admired in the Friendly Islanders. As these games were given at our desire, we found.it was universally expected that we should have borne our part in them ; but our people, though much pressed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the Friendly Islands. This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's crew ; an event which I mention the more particularly as death had hitherto been very rare amongst us. He was an old man, and much respected on account of his at« tachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine twenty- one years ; after which he entered as a seaman on board the Resolution in 1772, and served with Captain Cook in his voyage towards the South Pole. At their return he was admitted into Greenwich Hospital, through the Cap- tain's interest, at the same time with himself ; and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his bene- factor, he also quitted it along with him on his being appointed to the command of the present expedition. During the voyage he had frequently been subject to slight fevers, and was a convalescent when we came into the bay, where being sent on shore for a few days he conceived himself per* fectly recovered, and at his own desire returned on boaid ; but the day fol« lowing he had a paralytic stroke, which in two days more carried him off. At the request of the King of the island 229 he was buried on the "moral," and the ceremony was performed with as much solemnity as our situation per- mitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were spectators, and preserved the most profound silence and attention whilst the service was reading. When we began to fill up the grave, they approached it with great reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, and plantains ; and for three nights afterwards they surrounded it, sacri- ficing hogs and performing their usual ceremonies of nymns and prayers, which continued till day i reak. At the head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed upon it a sqjuare piece of board, on which was inscribed the name of the deceased, his age, and the day of his death. This they promised not to remove ; and we have no doubt but that it will be suffered to remain, as long as the frail materials of which it is made will permit. The ships being in great want of fuel, the Captain desired me on the 2d of Ffibrut-ry to treat with the priests for the purchase of the rail that sur- rounded the top of the "morai." I must confess I had at first some doubt about the decency of this proposal, and was apprehensive that even the bare mention of it might be ■: ' nsidered by them as a piece of shocking im- piety. In this, however, I found my- self mistaken. Not the smallest sur- prise was expressed at the application, and the viood was readily given, even without stipulating for anything in return. Whilst- the sailors were tak- ing it away, I observed one of them canying off a carved image ; and on further inquiry I found that they had conveyed to the boats the whole semi- circle.^ Though this was done in the presence of the natives, who had not shown any mark of resentment at it but had even assisted them in the removal, I thought it proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only desired that we would restor'^ the centre image I have mentionea COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot.III.B.V.Ch.1I. before, which he carried into one of the priest's houses. Terreeoboo and his chiefs had for some days past been very inquisitive about the tim e of our departure. T his circumstance had excited in me a gr^at curiosity to know what opinion this people had formed of us, and what were their ideas respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. I took some pains to satisfy myself on these points, but could never lenm anything further than that' they imagined we came from some country where pro- visions had failed, and that our visit to them was merely for the purpose of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase and carry off as much as we were able, led them naturally enough to such a con- clusion. To these may be added a circumstance which puzzled them ex- ceedingly — our having no women with us, together with our quiet conduct and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to see them strok- ing the sides and patting the bellies of the sailors (who were certainly much improved in the sleekness of their looks during our short stay in the island), and telling them, partly by signs and partly by words, that it was time for them to go ; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit season they shbuld be better able to supply their wants. We had now been sixteen days in the bay, and if our enormous consumption of hogs and vegetables be considered, it need not be wondered that they should wish to see us take our leave.' It is * Of twelve images, the preceding Chapter. described in • It is shrewdly enough suggested, in a note in Kerr's Collection (voL rvi., page 439), that the subsequent unexpected return of the ships to Karakakooa Bay may have alarmed the natives for the security of their own sustenance until the next season of plenty, and in a certain measure predisposed them to deal with the strangers in a less friendly, trustful, and respectful way. Feb. 1779.] PRESENTS FROM TERREEOBOO TO COOK. very probable, however, that Terreeo- boo had no other view in his inquiries at present than a desire of making suilicieut preparation for dismissing us with pi-esents suitable to the respect and kindness with which he had re- ceived us. For on our telling him we should leave the island on the next day but one, we observed that a sort of proclamation was immediatelymade through the callages to require the people to bring in their hogs and vegetables for the King to present to the " Orono " on his departure. "We were this day much diverted at t^" beach by the buffooneries of one o tho natives. He held in his hand an instrument of the sort described [in Book III., Chapter XII.^]; some bits of sea "eed were tied round his neck ; and ro , d each leg a piece of strong netting about nine inches deep, on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loosely fastened in rows. His style of dancing was entirely bur- lesque, and accompanied with strange grimaces and pantomimical distor- tions of the face, which, though at times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet on the whole were without much mean- ing or expression. In the evening we were again entertained with wrestling and boxing-matches, and we displayed in return the few fireworks we had left. Nothing could be better cal- culated to excite the admiration of these islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our gi-eat superiority, than an exhibition of this kind. Cap- tain Cook has already described the extraordinary effects of that which waa made at Hapaee; and though the present was in every respect infinitely inferior, yet the astonishment of the natives was not less. I have before mentioned that the carpenters from both ships had been sent up the country to cut planks for the head-rail work of tho Riesolution. This was the third day since their departure, and having received no in- telligence from them, we began to be very anxious for their safety. We were communicating our apprehen- * Ante, page 240. 827 sions to old Kaoo, who appeared as much concerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures with him for sending after them, when they arrived all safe. They had been ob- liged to go farther into the country than was expected before they met with trees fit for their purpose, and it was this circumstance, together with the badness of the roads, and the difficulty of bringing back the timber, which had detained them so long. They spoke in high terms of their guides, who both supplied them with provisions, and guarded their tools with the utmost fidelity. The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and myself to attend him on tho 8d to the place where Kaoo resided. On our arrival we found the ground covered with parcels of cloth, a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers tied to the fibres of oocoa-nut husks, and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces of iron-ware that had been got in barter from us. At a little distance from these lay an immense quantity of vegetables of every kind, and near them was a large nerd of hogs. At first we imagined the whole to be intended as a present for us, till Kaireekeea inforiQed me that it was a gift or tribute from tha people of that district to the King, and accord- ingly, as soon as we were seated, they brought all the bundles and laid them severally at Terreeoboo 's feet, spread- ing out the cloth and displaying the feathers and iron-ware before him. The King seemed much pleased with this mark of their duty, and having selected about a third part of the iron-ware, the same proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, these were set aside by themselves; and the remainder of the cloth, to- gether with all the hogs and vege- tables, were afterwards presented to Captain Cook and myself. We were astonished at the value and magnitude of this present, which far exceeded everything of the kind we had seen either at the Friendly or Society Islands. Boats were immediately sent to carry them on board, thu large hogs 828 were picked out to be salted for sea- store, and upwards of thirty smaller pigs and the yogetables were divided between the two crews. The same day we quitted the " morai " and got the tents and astro- nr)mical instruments on board. The charm of the taboo was now removed ; and we had no sooner left the place than the natives rushed in and search- ed eagerly about in expectation of finding something of value that we might have left behind. As I hap- pened to remain the last on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several came crowding about me ; and having made me sit down by them, began to lament our separation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit them. And here I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence in which I was principally concerned. Having had the coinmand of the party on shore during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becom- ing better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than those whose duty required them to be generally on board. As I had every r«!bson to be satisfied with their kindne.s!^ in general, so I cannot too often 1 r too particularly mention the unbounded and constant friend- ship of their priests. On my part, I snared no endeavours to conciliate their affections and gain their esteem ; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far, that when the time of our departure was made known I was strongly solicited to remain behind, not without ofi'ers of the most flatter- ing kind. When I excused myself by saying that Captain Cook would not five his consent, they proposed that should retire into the mountains, where, they said, they would conceal me till after the departure of the ships; and on my further assuring them that the Captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed 1 was, with a formal request that I might be left behind. The Captain, to avoid giv- ing a positive refusal to an ofier so COOK'S VOYAGES. p^OT. III. B. V. Ch.IL kindly intended, told them that ha could not part with me at that time, but that he should return to the island next year, and would then endeavour to settle tbe matter to their satisfac- tion. Early in the morning of the 4th we unmoored and sailed out of the bay, with the Discovery in company and were followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's design was to finish the survey of Owhyhee before he visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting with a road better sheltered than the bay we had just left ; and in case of not succeeding here, he pur- posed to take a view of the south-east part of Mowee, where the natives in- formed us we should find an excellent harbour. "We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our progress to tne northward very slow. We were accompanied by i great number of the natives in their canoes, and Terreeoboo gave a fresh proof of his friendship to Captain Cook by a large present of hogs and vegetables that was sent after him. In the night of the 6th, having a light breeze off the land, we made some way to the northward ; and in the morning of the 6th, having passed the westernmost point of the island, we found ourselves abreast of a deep bay called by the natives Toe-yah- yah. We had great hopes that this bay would furnish us with a safe and commodious harbour, as we saw *o the north-east several fine streams of water, and the whole had the appear- ance of being well sheltered. These observations agreeing with the ac- counts given us by Koah, who accom- panied Captain Cook, and had changed nis name, out of compliment to us, into "Britannee," the pinnace was hoisted out, and the master, with " Britannee " for his guide, was sent to examine the bay, whilst the shipe worked up after them. In the after- noon the weather became gloomy, and the gusts of wind that blew off the land, were so violent as to make it necessary to take in all the sails, and bring to under the mizzen -staysail. All the canoes left us at the begin- RESOLUTION Feb. 1779.] ding of the gale , and Mr Bli^h, on his return, had the satisfaction of saving an old woman and two men, whose canoe had been overset by the violence of the wind as they were endeavouring to gain the shore. Be- sides these distressed people, we had a great many women on board whom the natives had left behind in their hurry to shift for themselves. The master reported to Captain Cook that he had landed at tli ^ only village he saw, on the north bide of the bay, where he was directed to some weUs of water, but found they would by no means answer our purpose ; that he afterward proceeded farther into the bay, which runs inland to a great depth, and stretches toward the foot of a very conspicuous high mountain, situated on the north-west end of the island; but that instead of meeting with safe anchorage, as " Britannee had taught him to expect, he found the shores low and rocky, and a fiat bed of coral rocks running along the coast and extending upwards of a mile from the land, on the outside of which the depth of water was twenty fathoms over a sandy bottom; and that, in the meantime " Britannee " had con- trived to slip away, being afraid of returning, as we imagined, because his information had not proved true and successful. In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again mado sail ; but about midnight it blew so vio- lently as to split both the fore and main topsails. On the morning of the 7th we bent fresh sails, and had fair weather and a light breeze. At noon the latitude by observation was 20° 1' N., the W. point of the island bearing S. 7° E., and the NW. point N. 38° E. As we were at this time four or five leagues from the shore, and the weather very unsettled, none of the canoes would venture out, so that OUT guests were obliged to remain with us, much indeed to their dis> satisfaction, for they were all sea-sick, and many of them had left young children behind them. In the after- noon, though the weather was still squally, we stood in for the land, and DAMAGED IN A GALE. 820 being about three leagues from it we saw a canoe with two men paddling toward us, which we immediately conjectured had been driven off the shore by the late boisterous weatlier, and therefore stopped the ship's way in order to take thorn in. These poor wretches were so entirely ex- hausted with fatigue, that had not one of the natives on board, observ- ing their weakness^ jumped into the canoe to their assistance, they would scarcely have been able to fasten it to the rope we had thrown out for that purpose. It was with diflBculty we got them up the snip's side, together with a child about four years old, which they had lashed under the tliwarts of the canoe, where it had lain with only its head above water. They told us they had left the shore the morning before, and had been from that time without food or water. The usual precautions were taken in giving them victuals, and the child being committed to the care of one of the women, we found them all next morning perfectly recovered. At midnight a gale of wind came on which obliged us to double reef the top-sails and get down the top- gallant yards. On the 8th at day- break, we found that the fore-mast had again given way, the fishes which were put on the head in King George's or Nootka Sound, on the coast of America, being sprung, and the parti so very defective as to make it absol- utely necessary to replace them, and of course to unstep the mast. In this difficulty. Captain Cook was for some time in doubt whether he should run the chance of meeting with s harbour in the islands to leeward, or return to Earakakooa. That bay was not so remarkably commodious in any re<- spect but that a bettor might pro- bably be expected, both for the purpose of repairing the masts and for proc'iiing refreshments, of which it was imagined that the neighbour- hood of Karakakooa had been already Eretty well drained. On the other and, it was considered as too gi-eat a risk to leave a place that was tolerably sheltered, and whicli, once 830 left could not be regained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better, the failure of which might perhaps have left us without resource. We therefore continued standing on to- wards the land, in order to give the natives an opportunity of releasing their friends on board from their con- finement -f and at noon, being within a mile of the shore, a few canoes came off to us; but so crowded with people that there was not room in them for any of our guests. We therefore hoisted out the pinnace to carry them on shore ; and the master who went with them, had directions to examine the south coasts of the bay for water, but returned without finding any. The winds being variable, and a current setting strong to the north- ward, we made but little progress in our return ; and at 8 o'clock in the evening of the 9th it began to blow very hard from the SE., which ob- liged us to close reef the top-sails; and at two in the morning of the lOth, in a heavy squall, we found )urselves close in with the breakers that lie to the northward of the west point of Owhyhee. We had just room |» haul off and avoid them, and fired several gims to apprise the Discovery of the danger. In the forenoon, the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came off to us, from which we learned that the late storms had done much mischief, and that several large canoes had been lost. During the remainder of the day we kept beating to windward, and before night we were within a mile of the bay; but not choosing to run on while it was dark, we stood off and on till daylight next morning, when we dropped anchornearly in the same place as before. COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. III. B. V. Cm. III. CHAPTER la We were employed the whole of the 11th and part of the 12th in getting out the fore-mast and sending it with the carpenters on shore. Besides the damage which the head of the mast had sustained, we found the heel ex> ceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle of it capable of holding four or five cocoa-nuts. It was not however, thought necessaiy to shorten it, and fortunately the logs of red toa-wood which had been cut at Eimeo for anchor-stocks were found fit to replace the sprung part of the fishes. As these repairs were likely to take up several days, Mr Bayly and myself got the askonomical ap« paratus on shore, and pitched our tents on the "moral;" having with us a guard of a corporal and six marines. We renewed our friendly correspondence with the priests, who, for the greater security of the work- men and their tools, tabooed the place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it as before. The sail- makers were also sent on shore to re- pair the damages which had taken {)lace in their department duriiig the ate gales. Thty were lodged ivi a house adjoining to the "moHU," that was lent us by the priests. Such were our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed to the account of those other transactions with the natives which led by degrees to the fatal catastrophe of the 14th. Upon coming to anchor we were surprised to find our reception very difilerect from what it had been on our first arrival ; no shouts, no bustle, no confusion, but a solitary bay, with only here and there a canoe stealing close along the shore. The impulse of curiosity, which had before operated to so great a degree, might now in- deed be supposed to have ceased ; but the hospitable treatment we had in- variably met with, and the friendly footing on which we piuied, gave us some reason to expect that they would again have flocked about us with great joy on our return. We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of this extraordinary appear- ance, when our anxiety was at len^h relieved by the return of a boat which had been sent on shore, and brought us word that Terreeoboo was absent and had left the bav under the taboo. Fbb. 1779.] SUSPICIOUS t'OJSDUCT OF THE NATIVES. Though this account appeared very eatisfactory to most of ua, yet others were of opinion, or rather perhaps have been led by subsequent events to imagine, that there was something at this time, very suspicious .in the behaviour of 'the natives; and that the interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence of the King's absence, was only to give him time to consult with his chiefs in what manner it might be proper t< 'reatus. Whether these suspicions were well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth, we were never able to ascertain. For though it is not im- probable that our sudden return, for which they could see no apparent cause, and the necessity of wnioh we afterward found it very difficult to make them comprehend, might occa- sion some alarm ; yet the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who on his supposed arrival the next morning came immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of the natives to their former friendly intercourse with us, are strong proofs that they neither meant nor appre- hended any change of conduct. In support of this opinion I may add the account of another accident, Jrecisely of the same kind, which appened to us on our first visit, the day before the arrival of the King. A native had sold a hog on board the Resolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, passing by, advised the man not to part with the hog without an advanced price. For this he wa3 sharply spoken to and pushed away ; and the taboo being soon after laid on the bay, we had at first no doubt but that it was in consequence of the offence given to the chief. Both these accidents serve to show how very difficult it is to draw any certain conclusion from the actions of Eoplo with whose customs as well as aguage we are so imperfectly ac- c[uainted; at the same time, some idea may be formed from them of the difficulties, at the first view, perhaps, not very apparent, which tliose have to encounter who, in all their trans- actions with these strangers, have to 831 steer their course amidst so much iin< certainty, where a trifiing error may be attended with even the most fatal consequences. However true or false our conjectures may be, things went on in their usual quiet course till the afternoon of the 13th. Towards the evening of that day, the officer who commanded the water- ing party of the Discovery, came to inform me that several Chiefs had as sembled at the well near the beach, driving away the natives whom he had hired to assist the sailors in roll ing down the casks to the shore. He told me, at the same time, that he thought their behaviour extremely suspicious, and that they meant to give him some further disturbance. At his request therefore, I sent a marine along with him, but suff'ered him to take only his side arras. In a short time the officer returned, and on his acquainting me that the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were growing very tumul- tuous, I went myself to the spot, attended by a marine with his mus- ket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their stones, and on my speak- ing to some of the chiefs, the mob were driven away, and those who chose it were sufl'ered to assist in fill- ing the casks. Having left things ?uiet here, I went to meet Captain look, whom I saw coming on shore in the pinnace. I related to him what had just passed ; and he ordered me, in case of their beginning to throw stones or behave insolently, immedi- ately to fire a ball at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to the cor- poral to have the pieces of the sen- tinels loaded with ball instead of small shot. Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a c< n- tinued fire of muskets from the ^ ■ - covery, which we observed to be directed at a canoe that we saw pad- dling towards the shore in great haste, pursued by one of our small boat& "We immediately concluded that the firing was in consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the people 882 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vor.III,B.V.CH.ni. aa they oame on shore. Accordingly we ran towards the place where we supposed the canoe would land, but were too late, the people having quit- ted it and made tneir escape into the country before our arrival. We wore at this time ignorant that the goods had been already restored ; and as we thought it probable, from the circum- stances we had at iirsv observed, that they might be of importance, :vere unwilling to relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore inquired of tho natives which way the people hi d fled, we followed them till It was : ';ar dark, when, judgii:^ our- selves to be about three r^iles from the tents, and suspecting that the natives who frequently encoaraged us in th** pursuit were amusing us with false information, we thought it in vain to continue our search any louger, and returned to the beach. During our absence, a difTerence of a mor& serious and unpleasant nature had happened. The officer who had been sent in the "mall boat, and was returning on board with the goods which had been restored, observing Captain Cook and me engaged in the fmrsuit of the offenders, thought it lis duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn up on tho shore. Un- fortunately this canoe belonged to Pareea, who, arriving at the same ii.omentfrom on board the I>iscovery, cl limed his property with many pro- testations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give it up, and being joined by the crew of the pin- nace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pa- reea was knocked down by a violent blow on the head with an oar. The natives who were collected about the spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately attacked our people w^.th such, a shower of stones, as forcca ihem to retreat with great precipitation, and swim off to a rock at some distance from the shore. The Cinnace was immediately ransacked y the islanders ; and but for the timely interposition of Pareea, who seemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgotten it at the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people that they might come and take possession of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe with a midship< man's cap, and some other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent concern at what had happened, asked if the "Orono" would kill him, and whether ha would peimit him to come on board the next day t On being assured that he should be well received, he joined noses (aa their custom is) wiui tho oQicers in token of friendship, and pad- dled over to the village of Kowrowa. When Captain Cook was informed of what liad passed, he expressed much uneasiness at it, and as we were returning on board — "I am afraid," said he, "that these people will oblige me to use seme violent measures; for," he added^ "they must not be left to imagine that they have gained an advantage over us. ' However, as it was too late to take any steps tiiis evening, he contented himself with giving orders that every man and woman on board should be immediately turned out of the ship. As soon as this order was executed, I returned on shore ; and our former confidence in the natives being now much abated by the events of the day, I posted a double guard on the "morai," with orders to call me if they saw any men lurking about the beach. At about 11 o clock five islanders were observed creeping round the bottom of the " morai ; they seemed very cautious in approaching us, and at last, finding themselves discovered, retired outof sight About midnight, one of them venturing up close to the observatory, the sentinu fired over him, on which the man fled and we passed the remainder of the night without further disturbance. Next morning, at daylight, I went on board the Resolution for the time- keeper, and in my way was hailed by the Discovery, and informed that mai tol tO( a w the as hos cee thn Fkb.1779,] the cutter OF THE DISCOVERY STOLEN their cutter had been stolen during the night from the buoy where it was moored. When I arrived on board I found the marines arming, and Cap- tain Cook loading hia double-barrelled t.Tin. Whilst 1 was relating to him what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me with some eager- ness, and acquainted me with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his usual practice, whenever anything of con8ec[uence was lost at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king or some of the principal " Erees," on board, and to keep tnem as hostages till it was restored. This method, which had been always attended with success, he meant to pursue on the present occasion ; and, at the same time, had given orders to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of seizing and destroying them if he could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly, the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, were sta- tioned across the bay ; and before I left the ship some great guns had been fired at two large canoes that were attempting to make their escape. It was Witween 7 and 8 o'clock when we quitted the ship together ; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having , Mr Phillips and nine marines with him, and myself in the small boat. The last orders I receiv ed from him were to quiet the minds of the natives on our side of the bay, byassuiing them they should not be hurt ; to keep my people together ; and to be on my guard. We then parted; the Cap- tain went toward Kowrowa, where the King resided, and I proceeded to the beach. My first care on going ashore was to give strict orders to the marines to remain within their tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them as well as I could the object of the hostile preparations, which had ex- ceedingly alarmed them. I found tluit they had already heard of the 833 cutter's being stolen, and I assured them, that though Captain Cook was resolved to recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yot that they and the people of the village on our side need not be under the smallest apprehension of suflering any evil from us. I desired the priests to ex- plain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to con- tinue jjcaeeable and quiet. Kaoo asked mo with great earnestness if Terreeoboo was to be hurt. I assured him he was not ; and both ho and the rest of his brethren seemed miich satisfied with this assurance. In the meantime. Captain Cook having called off the launch, wliich was stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the lieutenant and nine mar- ines. He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the usual ma ' s of respect, the people prostrating themselves before him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his design, his next step was fo inquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his sons, who had been his constantguests on board the Resolution. In a ^nort time the boys returned along with the natives who had been sent in search of them, and immediately led Captain Cook co the house where the Kiu}^ had slept. They found the old man just awoke from sleep ; and after a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat and spend the day on board the Reso' ition. To this pro- posal the King readily consented, and immediately got up to accompany him. Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already in the jpinnace, and the rest af the party having advanced near the water -side, when an elderly woman called Kance- kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of the King's favourite wives, came after him, and with many teani ■ 834 and entreaties, besonglit him not to go on board. At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and insisting that he should go no farther, forc^ him to sit down. The natives, who wore collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing of the great gnos, and the appearances of hostility in the bay, began to throng round Capain Cook and their King. In this situation the lieutenant of marines, observing that his men were huddled close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms if any occasion should require it, proposed to the Captain to draw t'lem up along the rocks close to the water's edge ; and the crowd readily making way for them to pass, they were dmwn up in a line at the distance of about th'rty yards from the place where the Kingwas sitting. All this time, the old King remained on the ground; with the strongest marks of terror and dejecti^ a in his countenance : Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which ho had come on shore, continuing to urge him in the most pressing manner to proceed ; whilst, on the other hand, whenever the King api)eared inclined to follow hi'u, the chiefs, who stood round him interposed, at first with prayers and entreaties, but afterwards, having recourse to force and violence, insisted on his staying where he was. Captain Coolt, therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off without bloodshed, at last gave up Che point, observing to Mr Phillips that it would be impossible to compel him to go on board without the risk of killing a great number of the inhabit- ants. Though the enterprise which had Ctirried Captain Cock on shore had now failed and was abandoned, yet his is^rson did not ap^)ear t/> have been in the lea«t danger till an accident hap- pened whitii gave a fatal turn to the aPTair. The ooats which had been stationed across the bay having fired COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III.B.V.Ch.III. at some canoes that were attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, just as he had left the King, and was walking slowly toward the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous, the women and children were immediately sent oflF, and the men put on their war-mats and armed themselves with spears and stones. One of the natives, having in his hands a stone and a long iron spike (which they call a "pa* hooa"), came up to the Captain, flourishing his weapon by way of de- fiance, and threatening to throw the stone. The Captain desired him to desist ; but the man persisting in his insolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot was not able to penetrate, this had no other efiect than to irritate and en- courage them. Several stones were thrown at the marines ; and one of the "Erees" attempted to stab Mr Phillips with his " pahooa, " but failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the butt end of his mus- ket. Captain Cook now fired his set!ond barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the np- tives. A general attack with stones immediately followed, which was an- swered by a discharge of musketry from the marines ami the people in the boats. The islanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire with great firmness ; and be- fore the marines had time to reload they broke iu upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. "What followed was a scene of the utmost horror and con- fusion. Four of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangerously wounded ; and the lieutenant, who had received a stab bet .-een the shoulders with a "nahooa," luiving fortunately reserved nis fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he was going to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate commonder, the last time he was seen distinctly, was standing at the water's Feb. 1779.] edge and calling ont to the boats to ccaae firing and to pull in. If it he true, as some of those who were pro- sent have imagined, that the raannes and boatmen had fired without his ordere, and that he was desiroua of preventing any further bloodshed, it 18 not improbable that his humauity on this occasion proved fatal to him. For it was remarked that whilst he faced the natives none of them had offered him any violence, but that hav- ing trjrned about to rive his orders to the boats, be was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On seeing hira fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his Ixxly was immediftteiy dragged on shore and sur- rounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, showea a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. Thus fell our great and excellent commander I After a life of so much distinguished and successful enter- prise, his death, as far as regards himself, cannot be reckoned prema- ture, since he lived to finish the great work for which he seems to have oeen designed, and was rather removed from the eiyoy ment than cut off from the acquisition of glory. How sincerely bis loss was felt and lamented by those who had so long found their general security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation under their hard- ships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe ; much less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were struck, and tlie universal de- jection and dismay which followed so dreadful and unexpected a calamity.^ CHAPTER IV. It has been already related that four * Captain King occupies the rest of the Chapter Mrith a sketch of his great cliief's career and an eulogium on his abilities, achievements, and character, tliat is stamped with the eloquence of heartfelt affection and esteem. DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK. 835 of the marines who attended Captain Cook were killed by the islanders on the spot. The rest, with Mr Phillips, their lieutenant, threw themselves into the water, and escaped under cover of a smart fire from the boats. On this occasion a remarkable instance of gal- lant behaviour and of affection for his men was shown by that officer; for he had scai'cely got into the boat, when seeing one of the marines, who was a bad swimmer, struggling in the water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the sea to his assistance, though much wounded himself; and after receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly sent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair and brought him safe off. Our people continued for some time to keep up a constant fire from the boats (which during the whole transaction were not more than twenty yards from the land), in order to afford their un- fortunate companions, if any of them should still remain alive, an oppor- tunity of escaping. These efforts, seconded by a few guns that were fired at the same time from the Resolu- tion, having forced the natives at last to retire, a small boat manned by five of our young midshipmen pulled to- wards the shore, where they saw the bodies, without any signs of life, lying on the ground ; but judging it dan- gerous to attempt to bring them off with so small a force, and their am- munition being nearly expended, they returned to the ships, leaving them in possession of the islanders, together with ten stands of arms. As soon as the general consternation which the news of this calamity occa- sioned throaghout both crews had a little subsided, t' >ir attention was called to our pai1 at the "moral," where the mast t sails were on shore with a guard o/ only six marines. It is impossible for mc to describe the emotions of my own mind during the time these transactions had been car- rying on at the other side of the bay. Being at the distance only of a short mile from the villvo of Kowrowa, we could see distinctly an immense crowd 336 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. V. Ch. 17. collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before landed. We heard the firing of the musketry, and could perceive some extraordinary bustle and agita.tion in the multitude. We afterward saw the natives flying, the boats retire from the shore, and passing and repassing in great stillness between the ships. I must confess that my heart soon misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was con- cerned, it was impossible not to be alarmed by appearances both new and threatening. I3ut besides this, I knew that a long and uninterrupted course of success in his transactions with the natives of these seas had given the Captain a degree of confidence that I was always fearful mi^ht, at some un- lucky moment, put hira too much off his guard ; and I now saw all the dan- gers to whicJi that confidence might lead, without receiving much conso- lation from considering the experience that had given rise to it. My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was to assure the people who were assembled in considerable numbers round the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss with ourselves how to account for what they had seen and heard, that ^ey should not be molested ; and that at all e"ent8 I was desirous of con- tinuing on peaceable terms with them. We remained in this posture till the boats had returned on board, when Captain Gierke observing through his telescope that we were surrounded by the natives, and apprehending tliey meant to attack us, ordered two four- pounders to be fired at tliem. For- tunately these guns, though well aimed, did no miscliief, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power One of the balls broke a cocoa- nut tree in the middle under which a party of them were sitting ; and the other shivered a rock that stood in an exact line with them. As I had just before given them the strongest assur- ances of their safety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of hostility ; and, to prevent a repetition of it, imme- diately despatched a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke that at present I was on the most friendly terms with the natives ; and that, if occasion should hereafter arise for altering my conduct toward them, I would hoist a jack as a signal for him to afford us all the assistance in his power. We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour under the most torturing anxiety and sus- ^nse, our fears were at length con- firmed by the arrival of Mr Bligh, with orders to strike the tents as quickly as possible and to send the sails that were repairing on board. Just at the same moment our friend Eaireekeea, having also received in- telligence of the death of Captain Cook from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, came to me with great sorrow and dejection in his countenance, to inquire if it was true. Our situation was at this time extremely critical and import- ant ; not only our own lives, but the event of the expedition and the return of at least one of the ships being in- volved in the same common danger. We had the mast of the Resolution, and the greatest part of our sails, on shore, under the protection of only six marines; their loss would have been irreparable; and though the natives had not as yet shown the smallest disposition to molest us, yet it was impossible to answer for the alteration which the news of the trans- action at Kowrowa might produce. I therefore thought it prudent to dis- semble my belief of the death of Cap- tain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage the report lest either the fear of our resentment, or the successful example of tJieir country- men, might lead them to seize the favourable opportunity which at this time ofTored itself of giving us a second blow. At the same time, I advised him to bring old Kaoo and the rest of the priests into a large house that was close to the " morai," partly out of regard to their safety in case it should have been found necessary to f)roceed to extremities, and partly to lave him near us in order to make use of his aulhoiity with the people sua< came Tkb, 1779.] WARLIKE ATTITUDE if it could be instrumental in presenr- ingpeace. Having placed the marines on the top of the "morai," which formed a strong and advantageous post, and left the command with Mr Bligh, giving him the most positive direc- tions to act entirely on the defensive, I went on board the Discovery in order to represent to Captain Gierke the dangerous situation of our affairs. As soon as I quitted the spot the natives began to annoy our people with stones, and I had scarcely reachjed the ship before I heard the firing of the marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where I found things growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming and putting on their mats, and their numbers increased very fast. I could also perceive several large bodies marching towards us along J;hfi cliff which separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the bay, where the village of Kowrowa is situated. They began at first to attack us with atones from behind the walls of their enclosures, and findingnoresistanceon our part, they soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows, having crept along the beach under cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the " morai, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on the side next the sea, which was its only accessible part ; and were not dislodged till after they had stood a considerable number of shot and seen one of their party fall. The bravery of one of these assailants well deserve^ to be particularly mentioned. For having returned to carry off his com- panion amidst the fire of our whole party, a wound which he received made him qtiit the bodv and retire ; but in a few minutes he again ap- peared, and being again wounded, ne was obliged a second time to re- treat. At this moment I arrived at the "moral," and saw him return the third time, bleeding and faint ; and being informed of what had happened, I forbade the soldiers to fire, and he was sutfered to carry off his friend, which he was just able OF THE NATIVES. %r to perform, and then fell down him- self aad expired. About this time, a strong reinforce- ment from both ships having landed, the natives retreated behind their walls, w liich giying me aci^ass to our friendly priests, I sent one of them to endea- vour to bring their countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them fhat if )they would desist from throw- ing stones I wpuld not permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and we were suffered to launch the mast and carry off the sails and our astronomical apparatus unmolested. As soon as we had (quitted the "morai," they took possession of it, and some of them threw a few stones, but with- out doing us any mischief. It was half-an-hour past 11 o'clock when I got on board the Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our future proceedings. The restitu- tion of the boat, and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook, were the objects which on all hands we agreed to insist on ; and it was my opmion that some vigorous steps should be taken in case the demand of them was not immediately complied with. Though my feelings on the deatii of a beloved and honoured friend may be suspected to have had some share in this opini n, yet there were cer- tainly otneT oasons, and those of the most serious kind, that had con- siderable weight with me. The con- fidence which their succps^ in killing our chief and forcing ua to quit the shore must naturally have inspired, and the advantage, nowevitr tnfling, which they had obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubts encourage them to make eome fnrUM? dangerous attempts; and the mora especially as they had little reason, from what they had hitherto seen, to dread the effects of our fire-arms. In- deed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this sort of weapon had produced no signs of terror in them. On our side, such was the condition of the ships, and the state of discipline amongst us, that had a vigorous attack been made on xu in the niglib it would have been impossible to 338 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. V, Ch. IV. answer for the consequences. In these apprehensions I was supported by the opinion of most of the officers on board, and nothing seemed to me 80 likely to encourage the natives to make the attempt as the appearance of our being inclined to an accommo- dation which they could only attri- bute to weakness or fear. In favour of more conciliatory mea- sures, it was justly urged that the mischief was done, and irreparable ; that the natives had a strong claim to our regard on account of their former friendship and kindness, and the more especially as the late melancholy accident did not appear to have arisen from any premeditated design ; that, on the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness to accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually sent his two sons into the boat, must free him from the smallest degree of suspicbn ; that the conduct of his women and the " Ereea " might easily be ac- counted for, from the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force with which Captain Cook came on shore, and the hostile preparations in the bay, appearances so different from the terms of friendship and confidence in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives w-s evidently with a desigi^ to resist tne attempt, which they had iiom^ reason to imagine would be made, to carry off their King by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people full of af- fection and attachment to their chiefs. To these motives of humanity ethers of a prudential nature yrere ad.ded; that we were in want of water and other refreshments ; that our fore-mast would require six or eight days' work before it could bo stepped ; that the spring was advancing apac^, and that the speedy prosecution of our next northern expedition ought nov to be our sole object ; that therefore to en- cage in a vindictive contest with the inhabitants might not only lay us under the imputation of unnecessary cruelty, but Tvould oocasion an un- avoidable delay in the equipment of the ships. In this latt4 opinion Cap- tain Clerke concurred, and though I was convinced that an early display of vigorous resentment would more effec- tually have answered every object both of prudence and humanity, I was not sorry that the measures I had recommended were rejected. For though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their subsequent opposition to our necessary operations on shor«, arising I have no doubt from misconstruction of our lenity, compelled us at last to have recourse to violence in our own defence ; yet I am not ^o sure that the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of the world, have justified the use of force on our part in the first instance. Cautionary rigour is at all times in- vidious, and has this additional ob- jection to it, that the severity of a preventive course, when it best sue* oeeds, leaves its expediency the least apparent. During the time we were thus en* gaged in concerting some plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives still kept possession of the shore ; and some of them came off in canoes, and had the boldness to ap« proach within pistol-shot of the ships and to insult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could restrain the sailors from the use of their arms on these occasions; but as pacific mea- sures had been resolved on, the canoes were suffered to return xmmolested. In pursuance of this plan, it was de- termined that I should proceed to- wards the shore with the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and if possible to obtain a conference with some of the chiefs. If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and particu- larly that of Captain Cook ; to tnreaten them with our vengeance iu case of a refusal ; but by no means to fire un- less attacked, and not to land on any account whatever. Tliese orders were delivered to me before the whole party and in the most jiositive manner. I left the ships about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and as we approached PERFIDY OF KOAH AND THE CHIEFS. Fkb. 1779.] the shoro I perceived every indication of a hostile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion, the women and children retiring, the men putting on their war-mats and arm- ing themselves with long spears and daggers. We also observed that since the morning they had thrown up stone breastworks along the beach where Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an attack at that place ; and as soon as we were within reach they began to throw stones at us with slings, but without doing any mischief. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence, I ordered the armed boats to stop and went on in the small boat alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the natives, I had the satisfac- tion to find was instantly understood. The women immediately returned from the side of the hill whither they had letired ; the men threw off their mats ; and all sat down together by the water-side, extending their arms and inviting me to come on shore. Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly disposition, yet I coiild not help entertaining some suspicions of its sincerity. But when I saw Koah, with a boldness and assurance altogether unaccount- able, swimming off towards the boat with a white flag in his hand, I thought it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore re- ceived hiin into the boat, though armed, a circumstance which did not tend to Jjessen my suspicions. I must confess I had long harboured an un- favourable opinion of this man. The priests had always told us that he was of a malicious disposition, and no friend of purs ; and the repeated detec- tions of his fraud and treachery had convinced up of the truth of their re- presentations. Add to all this, the shocking transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a princi- {lul part, made me feel the utmost lorror at finding myself so near him ; and as he came up to me with feigned 339 tears and embraced me, I wan m dis- trustful of his intentions that I could not help taking hold of the point of the "pchooah ' which he held in his hand and turning it from me. I told him that I had come to demand the body of Captain Cook, and to declare war against them unless it was in- stantly restored. He assured me this should be done as soon as pos- sible, and that he would go himself for that purpose ; and, after begging of me a piece of iron with much ao- surance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped into the sea and swam ashore, calUng out to his countrymen that we were all friends again. We waited near an hour with great anxiety for his return, during which time the rest of the boats had ap- proached so near the shore as to enter into conversation with a party of the natives at some distance from us, by whom they were plainly given to understand that the body had been cut to pieces and carried up the country ; but of this circumstance I was not informed till our return to the shijn. I began now to express some impatience at Koah's delay, upon which the chiefs pressed me exceedingly to come on shore, assur- ing me that if I would go myself to Terreeoboo the body would certainly be restored to me. When they found they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under a pretence of wishing to converse with more ease, to decoy our boat among some rocks where they would have had it in their power to cut us off from the test It was no difficult matter to see through these artifices, apd I was therefore strongly inclined to break off all further communication with them, when a chief came to Us who was the particular friend of Captain Gierke and of the ofl^cers of the Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed when wo last left the bay, intending to take his passage to Mowee. He told us he came from Terreeoboo to acquaint -^is, that this body was car- ried up the country, but that it should be brought to us the next morning* 840 COOK'S VOYAOES. [Vot. III. B. V. Ce. IV. There appeared a great deal of sin* cerity in his manner, and being asked if he told a falsehood, he hooKed his two fore-fingers together, which is understood amongst these islanders as the sign of truth, in the use of which they are very scrupulous. As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent Mr Van- couver to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had passed; that my opinion was, they meant not to keep tneir word with Qs, and were so far from being sorry at what had hap- pened, that on the contrary they were Tall of spirits and confidence on ac- count of their late success, and sought only to gain time till they could con- trive some scheme for getting us into their power. Mr Vancouver came back with orders for me to return on board ; having first given the natives to understand that if the body was not brought the next morning the town should be destroyed. When they saw that we were going off they endeavoured to provoke us by the most insulting and contemptuous ges- tures. • Some of our people said they could distinguish several of the na- tives parading about in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades ; and among them a chief brandishing Captain Cook's hangw, and a woman holding the scabbard. Indeed, there can be no doubt but that our behaviour had given them a mean opinion of our cour- age ; for they could nave but little no- tion of the motives of humanity that directed it. In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke of what I conceived to be the present temper and disposi- tion of the islanders, the most effect- ual measures were takon to guard against any attack they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains ; additional sentinels were posted on both ships ; and guard boats were stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from cutting the cables. During the night we observed a prodigious num- ber of lights on the hills, which made «ome of us imagine they were remov- ing their effects back into the country in consequence of our threats. But I rather believed them to have been the sacrifices that were performing on account of the war in which they imagined themselves about to be en ' gaged ; and most probably the bodies of our slain countrymen were at that time burning. We afterward saw fires of the same kind cs we passed the Island of Morotoi, and which, we were told by some natives then on board, were made on account of the war they had declared against a neigh- bouring island. And this agrees with what we learned amongst the Friendly and Society Isles, that previous to any expedition against an enemy, the chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage of the people by feasts and rejoicings in the night. We remained the whole night un- disturbed except by the bowlings and lamentations which were heard on shore ; and early the next morning, Koah came alongside the Resolution with a present of cloth and a small pig, which he desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned before that I was supposed by the natives to be the son of Captain Cook ; and as he in his lifetime had always suffered them to believe it, I was probably considered as the chief after his death. As soon as I came on deck I questioned him about the body ; and, on his returning me nothing but evasive answers, I refused to accept his presents, and was going to dismiss him with some expressions pf anger and resentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it best at all events to keep up the appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that he should be treated with the usual respect. This treacherous fel- low came frequently to us during the course of the forenoon with bome trifling present or other ; and as I always observed him eyeing every part of the ship with great attention, I took care he should see we were wcU prepared for our defence. He waj f/xceedingly urgent both with Captain Clerke and myself to go on shore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the other chiefs, and assuring us that every- Fbb. 1779.] RECOVERY OP PART OF COOK'S BODY. thing might be settled to our satis- faction by a personal interview with Teneeoboo. However, his conduct was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this request ; and, indeed, a fact came afterward to our Icnowledge which proved the entire falsehood of his pretensions. For we were told that immediately after the action in which Captain Cook was killed, the old King had retired to a cave in the steep part of the moun- tain that hangs over the bay. which was accessible only by the help of ropes, and where he remained for many days, having his victuals let down to him by cords. When Eoah returned from the ships, we could perceive that his countrymen, who had been collected by break of day in vast crowds on the shore, thronged about him with great eagerness, as if to learn the intelli- gence he had acquired, and what was to be done in consequence of it. It is vei7 probable that they expected we should attempt to put our threats in execu- tion ; and tney seemed fully resolved to stand their ground. During the whole morning we heard conches blowing in different parts of the coast ; large parties were seen march- ing over the hills ; and, in short, ap- pearances were so alarming that we carried out a stream anchor, to enable as to haul the ship abreast of the town in case of an att^k, and sta< ticned boats off the north point of the bay to prevent a surprise from that quarter. The breach of their engage- ment to restore the bodies of the slain, and the warlike posture in which they at this time appeared, occasioned fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to be pursued. It was at last determined that nothing should be suffered to interfere witn the repcj of the mast, and the preparations for our deparl,- nre ; but that we should nevertheless continue our negotiations for the re- covery of tt.e bodies. The greatest pai t of the day was taken up in getting the fore-mast into a proper situation on deck for the carpenters to work upon it, and in making the necessary 341 alterations in the commissions of the oflScers. The command of the expe- dition having devolved upon Captain Clerke, he removed on board the Re- solution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be captain of the Discovery, and promoted Mr Harvey, a midshipman who had been with Captain Cook in his two last voyages, to the vacant lieutenancy. During the whole day we met with no interruption from the natives ; and at night the launch was again moored with a top-chain, and guard boats stationed round both ships as before. About 8 o'clock, it bein^ very dark, a canoe was heard paddlmg toward the ship, and as soon as it was seen both the sentinels on deck fired into it. Therw were t'«?o persons in the sanoe, and they immediately roared out "Tinnee" (which was the way in which they pronounced my nunie), and said they were friends, and had something for me belonging to Cap« tain Cook. "When they came on board, they threw themselves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both Sieces had gone through the canoe, ine of them was the person whom I have before mentioned under the name of the taboo man, who constantly attended Captain Cook, with the cir- cumstances of ceremony I have already described, and who, though a man oi rank in the island, could scarcely be hindered from performing the lowest offices of a menial servant. After lamenting with abundance of tears the loss of the "Orono," he told u» that he had brought us a part of his body. He then presented to us a small bundle wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm ; and it is impossible to describe the horror whic'ii seized us on finding in it a piecfj '/. human flesh about nine or ten ^^ounds weight. This, be said, 7.T. III. B. V. Ch. IV. what w« saw bad been allotted to Eaoo, the chief of the priests, to be made use of in some religious cere- mony ; and that he had sent it as a proof of his innocence and attachment to us. This afforded an opportunity of in- fonning ourselves whether they were cannibals, and we did not neglect it. We first tried by manv indirect question^ put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the rest of the bodies had been disposed of ; and finding them very constant in one story, that after the flesh had been cut off it was all burnt, we at last put the direct question, whether they nad not eat some of it They immedi- ately showed as much horror at the idea as any European would have done ; and asked very naturally if that was the custom amongst us. They afterward asked us with gteat earnestness and apparent apprehen- sion, "When the 'Orono would come again t and what he would do to them on his return ?" The same in- quiry was frequently made afterwai-d by ethers ; and this idea agrees with the eeneral tenor of their conduct to- ward him, which showed that tliey considered him as a being of a b rior nature. We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board tillmorning, but in vain. They told us that if this transaction should come to the knowledge of the King or chiefs, it might be attended with the most fatal consequences to their whole society, in order to prevent which they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark ; and that the same precaution would be necessary in returning on shore. They informed US further, that the chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their country- men; and particularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, they said, was our mortal and implacable enemy, and desired nothing more ardently than'an op^rtunity of fight- ing ui, to which the blowing of the conches we had heard in the morning was meant . as a challenge. We learned from these men that seven- teeo of their countrymen wera killed in the first actic^ at Eowrowa, of whom five were chiefs ; and that Eaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the observatory, three of whom were also of the first rank. About 11 o'clock our two friends l^% us, and took the precaution to deiiire! that our guard boat might attend them till they had passed the Discovery, lest the^ should again be fired upon, which might alarm their countrymen on shore, and expose them to the danger of being discovered. This request was complied with, and we had the satisfaction to find that they got safe and undiscovered to land. During the remainder of this nigUt we heard the same loud howling and lamentations ae in the preceding one. Early in the morning we received an- other visit from Eoah. I must confess I was a little piqued to find that, not- withstanding the most evident marks of treachery in his conduct, and the positive testimonv of our friends the priests, he should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, and to make us at least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. ludeed, our situation was become extremely awk- ward and unpromising ; none of the purposes for which this pacific course of proceeding had been aobpted having hitherto been in the least forwarded by it. No satisfactory answer what- ever had been given to our demands : we did not seem to be at all ad- vanced toward a reconciliation with the islanders ; they still kept in force on the shore, as if determined to resist any attempts we might make to land ; and yet the attempt was become ab- solutely necessary, as the completing our supply of water would not admit of any longer delay. However, it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numbers of the natives and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, an attack could not have been made without some danger ; and that the loss of • Feb. 1779.1 STRANGE BEHAVIOUR OF TWO BOYS. 343 very few men might have been severely felt by ns during the remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of our threats, though on the one hand it lessened their opinion of onr prowess, had the effect of causing them to disperse on the other. For this day, about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conches and using every mode of defiance, marched off over the hills, and never appeared afterward. Those, however, who remained were not the less daring and insolent. One man had the audacity to come within mus- ket shot, ahead of the ship ; and after slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his head, whiLt his countrymen on shore were exulting and encouraging his bold- ness. Uur people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a body on thequarter-deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with these repeated provocations, and re- S nested me to obtain permission for liem from Captain Clerke to avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of their com- mander. On my acquainting him with what was passing, he gave orders for some great guns to be fired at the natives on shore, and promised the crew that if they should meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next day they should then be left at liberty to chastise them. It is somewhat remarkabl« that be- fore we could bring our guns to bear the islanders had suspected our inten- tions, from the stir they saw in the ship, and had retired behind their houses and walls. We were therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random ; notwithstanding which our shot produced all the effects that could have oeen desired. For soon after we saw Eoah jMtddling toward us with extreme haste, and on his arrival we learned that some people had been killed, and amongst the rest Maiha- maiha, a principal chief and a near relation of the King.^ Soon after the ^ The word " matee " is commonly arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from the "morai" toward the ships, having each a long spear in his hand ; and after they had approached pretty near they began to cnant a song in a verv solemn manner, the subject of which, from their often mentioning the word "Orono" and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung in a plaintive strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the Dis- covery and delivered their spears ; and after making a short stay returned on shore. Who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn. At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the ships ; and as soon as it was dark our two friends who had visited us the night before came off again. They assured us that though the effects of our great guns this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile inten- tions, and advised us to be on our guard. The next morning the boats of both ships were sent ashore for water ; and tne Discovery was warped close to the beach in order to cover that service. We sion found that the intelligence which the priests had sent us was not without foundation ; and that the native.", were resolved to take every opportunity «» annoying us when it could be done without much risk. Throughout all this group of islands, the villages for the most part are situated near the sea, and the ad- jacent ground is enclosed with stone walls about three feet high. These we at first imagined were intended for the division of property ; but we now discovered that they served, and pro- used, in the language of tl esi< islands, to express either kiUing or wounding; and we were afterward told that this chief had only received a slight blow on the face from a stone which had been struck by one of the balla — Note in Original Edition, Hi COOK'S VOYAGES. (Voy. III. B. V. Ch. IV. bably were principally designed, for a defence against invasion. Thoy con- sist of locse stones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in shifting them with great quickness to such situations as the direction of the attack may re' quire. In the sides of the mountain which hangs over the bay they have also little holes or cavea of consider- able depth, the entrance of which is secured by a fence of the same kind. From behind both these dsfences the natives kept perpetually harassing our waterers with stones ; nor could the small force we had on shore, with the advantage cf musketsi compel thein to retreat. In this exposed situation our people were so taken up in attending to their own safety, that they employed the whole forenoon in fillingonlyoneton of water. As it was therefore impossible to perform this service till their assail- ants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was ordered to dislodge them with -her great guns; which -being effected by a few di8char|;es, the men landed without molestation. However, the natives soon after made their appearance again in their usual mode of attack ; and it was now found absolutely necessary to bum down some straggling houses neat the wall behind which they had taken shelter. In executing these orders I am sorry to add that our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. Something ought cer- tainly to be allowed to their resentment of the repeated insults and contempt- uous behaviour of the islanders, and to the natural desire of revenging the loss of their commanded. Bdt at the same time their conduct served strongly to convince me that the utmost precaution is necessary in trusting, though but for a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands of private seamen or soldiei's on luch occasions. The rigour of disci- pline and the habits of obedience by which their force is kesph directed to Its proper objects lead thoiQ naturally enough to conceive that whatever they have the power they have also the right to do. Actual "isobediecce being almost the only crime for which they are accustomed! to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as the only measure of right and wrong ; and hence are apt to conclude that wnat they can do with impunity they may do with j'ustice ahd honour. So that the feel- ings of humanity which are insepar- able from us all, and that generosilnr toward an unresisting enemy whicn at other times is the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints to the exercise of violence when opposed to the desire they natur- ally have of showing their own inde- pendence and power. I have already mentioned that orders had been given to bum only a few straggling huts which afforded shelter to the natives. We were therefore a good deal surprised to see the whole village on fire ; and before a boat that was sent i^ stop the pro- gress of the mischief could reach the shore, the houses of our old and con- stant friends the priests were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that confined me on board this day. The priests had always been under my protection ; and unluckily the officers who were then on duty, having been seldom on shore at the "morai," were not much acquainted with the circumstances of the place. Had I been present myself, I might probably have been the means of sav- ing their little society from destrac- tion. Several of the natives were shot in making their escape from the flames ; and our people cut off the heads of two of them and brought them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water he was shot at by one of the marines. The ball strack his calibash, which he immediately threw from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves I have before described, and no lion could have defended his den with S eater courage and fierceness ; till at it, after having kept two of our Eeople at bay for a considerable time, e expired, covered with wounds. It was tnis accident that first brought us acquainted with the use of these Fiti».177».] RETURN OF KAIREEKEEA. 346 curerus. At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and Bent on board in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never saw horror so strongly pictured ai» in the face of this man, nor so violent a transition to extravagant joy as when he wa« untied and told he might go away in safety. He showed us he did not want gratitude, as he frequently afterward returned 'With presents of provisions, and also did us other services. Soon after the village was destroyed we saw coming down the hill a man attended by fifteen or twenty boys holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, plantains, &c., in their hands. I knew not how it happened that this peaceful emuassy, as soon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of oui men. This, hortr- ever, did not stop them. They con- tinued their procession, and the officer on duty came up in time to prevent a second discbarge. As they approached nearer, it was found to be our much' esteemed friend Kalreekeea, who had fled on our first setting fire to the village, and had now returned and desired to be sent on board the Re- solution. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thought- ful We endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of setting fire to the village, by which his house and those of iiis brethren were unintentionally con- sumed. He expostulated a little with us on our want of friendship and on our ingratitude. And indeed it was not till now that we learned the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us that, relying on the pro- mises I had made them, and on the assurances they had afterward receiv- ed fro a the men who had brought us tnu remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their efl!ects back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, but had put everything that was valuable of their own, as well BM what they had collected from us, into a house close tu the " moral, " where they had the mortification to tee it all set on fire by ourselves. On coming on board he had seen the heads of his countrymen lying on the deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, and desired with great ear- nestness that they might he thrown overboard. This request Captain Clerke instantly ordered to be com- plied with. In the evening the watering party returned on board, having met with no further interruption. We passed a gloomy night, the cries and lament- ations we heard on shore being far more dreadful than ever. Our only consolation was the hope that we should have no occasion in future for a repetition of such severities. It la very extraordinary that amidst all these disturbances the women of the island who were on board never offered to leave us, nor discovered the smallest apprehensions either for themselves or their friends ashore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that some of them who were on deck when the town was in flames seemed to admire the sight, and frequently cried out that it was "maitai," or very fine. The next morning Eoah came ofl" aa usual to the ships. As there existed no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When ha ap- proached towards the side of the ship, singing his song, and offering me a hog and some plantains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook s bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of promise. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately onshore and joined a party of his countrymen who were pelting the waterers with stones. The body of the young man who had been killed the day before was found this morning lying at the entrance of the cave, and some of our people went and threw a mat over it. Soon after which they saw some men carrying him off on their shoulders, and could hear them singing, as they marched, a mournful song. The natives being at last convinced 843 th \t it WM not the want of ability to pv.nish them which had hitherto mndo us tolerate their provocations, desisted from giving us any further molesta- tion ; and in the evening a chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom wo knew to be a roan of the very first consequence, came with presento from TeiTeeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, and he was dismissed with the same answer which had before been given, that until the remains of Captain Cook should be restored no peace would be granted. We learned from this person that the flesh of all the bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burned ; that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongst the inferior chiefs ; and that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of in the following /nanner: the head, to a ^at chiet called Kahoo-opeon ; the hair, to Maia- maia ; and the legs, thighs, and arms, to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables, and we also received two large presents of the same articles from Kaireekeea. The 19th was c}iiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages which passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very pressing that one of our officers should go on shore, and in the meantime offered to remain as a hostage on board. This request, however, it was not thought proper to comply with ; and he left us with a promise of bringing the bones the nv xt day. At the beach the waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the natives, who, notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again without the smallest appearance of diffidence or apprehension. Early in the morning of the 20th we had the satisfaction of getting the fore- mast stepped. It was an operation attended witii great difficulty and some danger, our ropes being so ex- ceedingly rotten that the purchase gave way several times. Between 10 and 11 o'clock we saw « great number of people descending C. OK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. V. Ch. IV. the hill which is over the beach in a kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, "taro," and plan- tains in his hand. They were pre- ceded by two drummers, who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while those who had fol- lowed them advanced one by one; and, having deposited the presents they had brought, retired in tne same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great solem- nity in his hands ; and having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent him. Captain Clerke conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the tact, went himself in the pinnace to receive him, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eapno came into the pinnace and delivered fxy the Captain the bones, wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed upon to go on board ; probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to bo present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire,' which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them that divided the thumb from the forefinger the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the skull, but with the scaip separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the s«jalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it ; the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore- arms hanging to them ; the thigh and leg bones joined together, but with- out the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of pre- serving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the skull COOK'S REMAINS COMMITTED TO THE DEEP. 347 lUg in, an- fol- ne; nts me in ak, !m- ced ! Fra. 1779.] was free firom any fracture. The lower ^aw and feet, which were wanting, ilappo told U8 had been seized by dif- ferent chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using every means to recover them. The next morning Eappo and the King's son came on ooard, and brought with them the remaining bones cf Captain Cook, the barrels of Lis gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us tnat Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and him- self were most heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given us the most convincing proof of it in their power ; and that the^ had been pre- vented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our enemies. He lamented with the greatest sorrow the death of six chiefs we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's people, very probably in revenge for the blow that had been given him, and it had been broken up thenextdav. The arms of the marines, which we nad also demanded, he as- sured us had been carried off by the common people, and were irrecover- able ; the bones of the chief alone having been preserved as belonging to Terreeoboo and the " Erees." Nothing now remained but to per- form the last offices to our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin anil the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this occasion, I leave the world to conceive; those who were present know that it is not in my power to express them. Daring the forenoon of the 22d not a canoe was seen paddling in the bay, the taboo which Eappo had laid on it the day before at our request not being yptt taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We assured him that we were now entirely satisfied, and that, as the "Orono' was buried, all re- membrance of what had passed was buried with him. We afterward de- sired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known that the people iTiIff it Yc'iDg their provisions as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoos, and many of the chiefs came on board expressing great sorrow at what hi|ipened and their satisfac- tion at our reconciliation. Several of our friends who did not vinit us sent presents of largo hogs and oth<»r pro- visions. Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but was refused admittance. As we had now everything ready for sea, Captain Clerke, imagining that if the news of our proceedings should reach the islands to leeward before uu it might have a bad cfFect, gave orders to unmoor. About eight m the evening we dismissed all the natives, and Eappo and the friendly Kaireekeca took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately weighed and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the shore in great numbers, and as we passed aiong, received our last farewells with every mark of affection and goodwill. CONCLUSION. [Nothing now remains but to give an outline of the last twenty-one months' voyage of the Resolution and Discovery, until their arrival in Eng- land in October 1780 ; and, as before, the synopsis has been taken from the Cabinet CyilopiEdia, "Maritime and Inland Discovery," vol. iii., pp. 86- 92.] •' After leaving Owhyhee, the ships touched at the Island of Atooe, which was found desolated by a war origi- nating in the claims of different chiefs to the goats which Captain Cook had put on shore. These animals had in- creased to six when the war broke out on their account, in the course of which they were all destroyed. The history of the introduction of useful animals into the South Sea Islands affords many parallel instances of human blindness, and of that harbor- 848 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.III.CoNOi.tT8iox. oua degree of envy and rapacity which destroys a treasure rather than leare it in the possession of a rival. "Captain Gierke proceeded now to execute the intentions of his lata commander, by repeating the attempt to find a passage through the Northern Ocean. He touched at the harbour of St Peter and St Paul in Awatska Bay, where he was treated by the Rus- sians with unbounded hospitality ; and then passing Behring's Strait a second time, penetrated as far as 70° 83' N., where the same obstacle which had prevented the progress of the ships the preceding year forbade him to advance any farther. Ho met here with a firm barrier of ice, seven leagues farther to the south than that which had stopped the progress of Captain Cook, The impossibility of a passage by the north was now thought to be sufficiently proved, and it was resolved to proceed home- wards; the chief purpose of the ex- pedition having been thus answered. This resolution of the officers diffused among the crews, who were now heartily tired of the length of the voyage, as lively a joy as if the ships, instead of having nearly the whole earth to compass, were already ar- rived in the British Channel. When the ships had just reached Kamts- chatka. Captain Gierke died of a de- cline; he had already circimnavi- gatcd the globe three times, having sailed fi^rst with Commodr.re Byron, and afterwards witli Gapti^in Cook. Captain Gore now succeeded to the command of the expedition, and Lieu- tenant King took the command of the I)i8Covery. Their voyage to China was not productive of any important geographical results. In navigating these stonny seas they found it ne- cessary to keep at a distance from land, and were thus batlled by con- stant tempestuous weather in their attempt to survey the coasts of Japan. " On the 3d of December our navi- gators arrived at Macao, where they first became acquainted with the events which had taken place in Europe since their departure, and of the wai- which had broken out be* twesn Great Britain and France. A rumour of the generous conduct of the latter Government at the same time reached them; an order had been issued in March 1779, by the Minister of the Marine at Paris, to all the commanders of French ships, acquainting them Avith the expedition and destination of Captain Cook, and instructing them to treat that cele-< brated navigator wherever they should meet him, as a commander of a neutral and allied power. This measure, so honourable to the nation which adopt* ed it, is said to have originated in the enlightened mind of the celebrated Turcot. Dr Franklin, who at that time resided at; Paris as Ambassador from the United States, had a short time before issued a requisition, in which he earnestly recommended the com- manders of American armed vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy ; but he had no authority to enforce his recommendation, and the Government of the United States had not the magnanimity to adopt it. " Whilo the ships lay in the Rivet of Canton, the bailors carried on a brisk trade witli the Chinese for the sea-otter skins which they had brought with tknm from the north-west coast of America, and which were every day rising in their value. ' One of our seamen,' says Lieutenant King, 'sold his stock alone for 800 dollars ; and a few prime skins, which were clean and had been well preserved, were sold for 120 each. The whole amount of the value, in specie and goods, that was got for the furs in botli ships, I am confident, did not fall short of £2000 sterling ; and it was generally supposed that at least two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the Americans were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away, or otherwise disiKMicd of in Kamtschatka. When, in addition io those facts, it is remembered that the furs were at first collected without our having any idea of their real value; that the freatest part had been worn by the ndians from whom we purchased them ; thit they were afterwards pre- •iervod with littlo core, and frequeutljf 1779.] COOK'S MERITS AS A DISCOVERER. 349 used for bedclothes and other ptir« poses ; and that probably we had not got the full value for them in China ; the advantages that might be derived from a voyage to that part of the American coojst, undertaken with commercial views, appeared to me of a degree of imx)ortance sufficient to call for the attention of the public' These observations of Lieutenant King point to that which eventually proved to be the most important result of this expedition. A great branch of trade in the Pacific Ocean, which had hitherto escaped the notice of the nations mdst interested in its devel- opment, and possessing establish- ments most conveniently situated for carrying it on, was suddenly dia- coverid, and soon after vigorously prosecuted by a maritime people from the opposite side of the globs. The crews of both ships were astonished, OS well as overjoyed, at the price paid them for their furs by the Chinese; and their rage to return to Cook's River, in order to procure a cargo of skins, proceeded at one time almost to mutiny. A few, indeed, contrived to desert, and were among the first adventurers who crossed the Pacific Ocean in the newly discovered fur trade. The seamen thus unexpect- edly enriched soon underwent a total metamorphosis; they arrived at Macao in rags, many of them having incon- siderately sold their clotliing in the South Sea Islands; but, before they left that harbour, they were decked out in gaudy silks and other Chinese finery. Nothing of importance oc- curred during the remainder of tl^ift voyage home; and on the 4th^^^ October, the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. In the whole course of the voyage the Resolution lost but five men by sickness, of whom three were in a precarious state of health when the expedition left England ; thr Dis- covery did not lose a man. ** In order to estimate the merits of Captain Cook, it will be only neces- sarj' to survey generally the extent and nature of his discoveries, and to examine what influence they exerted immediately on the commercial en- terprise of nations. In the extent of the coasts which he surveyed or dis- covered, he far surpasses every other navigator. The eastern coast of New Holland, 2000 miles in extent, was totally unknown till he traced it; escap. from the dangers of that in- tricate navigation solely by his cool intrepidity and the resources of his skill. He also circumnavigated New Zealand, the eastern and southern parts of which were quite unknown, and supposed by many to be united to the Terra Australis Incognita. New Caledonia and Norfolk Island were both discovered by him ; and the New Hebrides, from his. labours, first as- sumed a definite shape in our maps. He rendered an essential service to geography also by his circumnavigat- . ing the globe in a high southern lati- tude ; for, though the exertions and dangers of that difficult navigation were not repaid by any brilliant dis- coveries, it set at rest a question which had for ages divided the opinions of speculative geographers. Sandwich Land, or Southern Thule, may be num- bered among his discoveries, although it is probably the land which Gemtz had descried a century before. " His discoveries on the north-west coast of America were still more im- poitant and more extensive. In one voyage, he eifected more than the Spanish navigators had been able to accomplish in the course of two cen- turies. In sailing through Behrinp's Stiait, he determined the proximity of Asia and America, which Behring himself had failed to perceive ; and he assigned the coast of the Tshuktzki to its true place, which, in many maps of his time, was placed some degrees too far to the weatward. *' It is needless to recapitulate here the large additions which he made to our knowledge of the groups of islands scattered through the Pacific Ocean. Some of the Society and Friendly Islands were known before his time ; but he carefully surveyed those archi- polagoeb, and fixed the positions wf the W¥ 350 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. III. CoNotnstoir. chief islands, sacli as Otaheite and Toncataboo, with an accuracy equal to that of a European observatory. He prided himself especially on hav- ing discovered the Sandwich Islands, &nd there is no good reason to refuse him that honour ; for even if it be true that a Spanish navigator, named Gal;, discovered those islands in 1576, and that he gave to Owhyhee the name of Mesa or Table Mountain, which is marked in old Spanish charts twenty- two degrees to the west of the Sand- wich Islands, but in- the same latitude with them ; yet no atrens can be laid on a discovery from wh'ch mankind derived no knowledge, ^le Spaniards seem soon to have totallylorgotten the Sandwich Islands, if they ever knew them, notwithstanding the advan- tages which they might have derived from those islands in their frequent voyages from New Spain to Manilla. Anson and many other navigators might have been spared infinite dis- tress and suffering in their voyages across the Pacific had anything cer- tain been known of the existence and situation of the Sandwich Islands. "But Cook's merit is not more conspicuous in the extent of his dis- coveries, than in the correctness with which he laid down the position of every coast of which he caught a glimpse. His surveys aiford the materials of accurate geography. He adopted in practice every improvenjent suggested by the progress ol science ; and instead of committing errors amounting to two or three degrees of longitude, like most of his predecessors, his determinations were such as to be considered accurate even at the present day. Nor was this the merit of the astronomers who accompanied him on his expeditions. He was himself a skilful observer, and at the same time so vigilant and indefatigable, that no opportunity ever escaped him of ascertaining his true place. He possessed in an emi- nent degree the sagacity peculiar to seamen ; and in his conjectures re- specting the configurations of coasts he very rarely erred. La Perouse, who was a highly accomplished sea- man, always mentions, the name of Cook with the warmest admiration, and frequently alludes to the re- markable correctness of his surveys. Crozet, also, who wrote the narrative of Marion's voyage, speaking of Cook's survey of the shores of New Zealand, says — ' That its exactness and minute- ness of detail astonished him beyond expression ; ' but Cook's skill as a marine surveyor may be still better estimated from the chart which, at the commencement of his career, he constructed of the coasts of Newfound- land ; and of that chart, Captain Frederick Bullock, the able oflScer who has recently^ completed the survey of Newfoundland, speaks in those terms of warm commendation which a man of ability natumlly bestows on what- ever is excellent " From the second ezx)edition of Cook may be dated the art of preserv- ing the health of the seamen in long voyages. Before that time, navigators who crossed the Pacific hurried preci- pitately by the shortest course to the Ladrones or the Philippine Islands ; and yet they rarely reached home without the loss of a large proportion of their crew. Cook, on the other hand, felt himself perfectly at home on the ocean ; he did not care to limit his voyages either in space of time or of distance ; he sailed through every climate, crossing both the arctic and antarctic circles ; and proved that a voyage of four years' duration does not necessarily affect the health of seamen. This was a discovery of fai greater importance than that of a new continent could have been. By his banishing the terror that arose from the frightful mortality that previously attended on Ipng voyages, he has mainly contributed to the boldness of navigation which distinguishes the present day. " Among the immediate effects of Captain Cook's voyages, the most im- portant was the establishment of a colony at Botany Bay. That great navigator seems to have contracted a partiality towards the New Zea- lauders ; he admired their generosity. This was published in 1831. 1779.] THE their manly carriage, and their intelli- gence. Their country appeared to him fertile; abounding in commodities which might become valuable in com- merce ; and he hints, though with diffidence, at the possibility of a trade being carried on between Europe and New Zealand. His observations on this subject had influence, no doubt, on the minds of tlie English ministers, asd they resolved on establishing a \^.^')ny at New Holland ; and the re- sult has justified Cook's sanguine an- ticipations, ^ The fur trade also, which soon caused such a concourse of Euro- pean shipping in the Pacific Ocean, '^ Infinitely more so, in this third quarter of the nineteenth century. END. 361 originated with this third voyage ; bnt his familiarity with the South Sea Islanders, the trade which he estab- lished with them, and the practice which he commenced of purchasing sea stores from them, have had, per- haps, a stiU stronger influence on navigation in the Pacific. " Finally, to complete the eulogium on this great navigator, it will be sufficient to enumerate some of the dis- tinguished seamen who served under him, such as Vancouver, Broughton, Bligh, Burney, Colnett, Portlock, Dixon, &c. ; these men learned under Cook the arduous duties of their pro- fession, and they always spoke of him with unquallfled admirauon and respect." BSD 07 COOK^B TOTAOX6.