QU SUMMER AND •yy^m pADl^ RECEPTIOH IfeT^ >ii^ SUMMKR AND WINTER SIXTH EDITION r / \ PUBLISHED BY THE Chateau Frontenac Co. 1896 ' ■ I ' • 'II I Copyright, 1894, by the Chateou Frontenac Co. \ t ''!» ' * /* J^ X ». -^ • • • • • • • « • • • • • quebi:c-summp:r and winter. Ilcru s;iil(j(l j;u:(|uls C'aitiLr, hold and iiruat ( liamphiiii, Ilure vIljc irons Irontunac witli iron ndud ; lluru ful' two hurous ; onu in victory Scarco reali/cd; iiis rival in defeat Scarce known. I'eace from their fjlorioiis graves has schooled The ancient discord, till our minstrelsy Sings growth luiitcil in war's vacant seat I — .Xi.i'kiii riioKiH.ii. 'T^HERE is not a s[)ot in all America richer in historic treasure, or more lavishly endowed ^ by Nature in the beauty, i^randeur, and splendor ot" its siirroundini;s, than the quaint old walled city of Quebec, which, ,i;uardin,L;- the portal of the j;reat inkuul waters of the conti- nent, has not inaptly been termed the "Sentinel City of the St, Eawrence." Historically it stands pre-eminent. Here the i^erm of luiropean civilization was planted in this new northern land, and the two greatest of old-world monarchies battled for half a continent ; where mediu'val ideas of fortification and defence may be seen ; and where the bold fortress-crowned rock, and the majestic river flowing with the watery tribute of the wlu)le western world at its feet, show Nature in her most wonderful works. It i^, of Quebec that Henry Waril Beecher said: "Here is a small bit of mcdixval Euro[)e perched upon a rock, and dried for keeping — a cmiosity that has not its et|ual in its kind on this side of the ocean." And the wondrous beauty of the city's environments is thus describetl by another gifted writer : " The majestic apjicarance of Cape Diamond and the fortilications, the cupolas and minarets blazing and sparkling in the sun, the noble 60748 OUKBKC — SUMMER AND WINTER. basin like a sheet of purest silver, in which niiL;iit ride witli safety the navies of the world, the graceful nieanderinj;s of the river St. Charles, tlie numerous village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence, the fertile \alley dotted with the ])ictures(|ue Itabitant houses, the distant Falls of Montniorenei, the })ark-like scenery of Point Levis, the beauteous Isle of Orleans, the ,L;rini purple mountains, the barriers to the north, form a picture which it is no e.\a<;t;eration to say is unsur]iassed in any jxirt of the world." It is the |)urpose of this brochure to furnish in a concise form such information concerninj;- this ancient city, its approaches, surroundin.n's, and accommodation for tourists as may assist that numerous and yearly increasinj^ brotherhood, or such of them as may desire to visit the St. Lawrence, in formini;- their i)lans to ensure the maximum of recreation with the minimum of trouble. The city of Ouebec is such a convenient restin,;;- place between IMontreal and the several points of interest on the Lower St. Lawrence, and is of itself so interestinjj^ and so unlike other cities of the continent, that \ery few makin:.;" the tour of the St. Lawrence i)ass its memorable walls without spending a few davs within them. They desire to see where Cartier, the Columbus of the North, first landed, where Champlain founded the first French colony, where Wolfe fell and Montcalm received his death wound, and where Montgomery, the American general, who was killed while besieging the city on 31st December, 1775, breathed his last within the English lines. The streets of Ouebec are redolent of the religious and military history of early Canada, and more historic memories linger about this ancient stronghold than around any other city MONTMORENCI FALLS IN WINTER, gui:i}i<:c — suMivii'R and wintkr. on the continent. I-lvcry spot now (lisinissed in a sentence was the centre of events which seemed to tiie actors of them to l)e frau_i;Iit with far-reaciiiui;' consequences, as indeed many of them were. It is over three liundred and si.\ty years since Jacques Cartior anchored off wliat was tlien the Tnihan vilhi,L;e of Stadacona, and of course . claimed the rest of it, all, wliatever it mi;;ht prove to be, for the Kinj; of France. He made no permanent settlement here, but in 1549 the Sieur de Roberval .spent one winter with a small colony he had br()u,i;ht out, and then retired. In i6ot^'-V ■^i^St'"^^'^ -.<•' rl^.'f ^^rii^^-^i'-'-^-'-'^^w- CHATEAU FRONTENAC. ,\ ()Lji-:hi-:c — suMMi'R and winh-ir. HOW TO GET THERE. QUl'^IU'X' is easily reached Iroiii all (lircclions. l-'rom Montreal, which may he re-^arded ^.^ as the staitiii,L;-i)oint lor the Rower St. Lawrence, there is a choice ot routes by rail and river. IJy the Canadian Pacific Railway it is about five hours' run alon^- the north bank of the river, throuyh the oKl French setllenients that in many places are almost as l)riniitive as in the days of Champlain and I''rontenac. Ihe railway runs directly under the walls of, and yet into, the city. The Grand Trunk, on the other side of the St. Lawrence, runs to Levis, directly opposite Uuebec, the river being crossed by steam ferry. "^ ''^'^!^<5?\ Dmin.iX the season of naviuation the steamers of the Richelieu & ( )nlaii() *' .'W ,0,, ^>v -o - - - . - -- .--lit ••■#»!, '^ Capital by way of Sherbrooke, thence via the Ouebec Central or drand P^jigj-^ Trunk Railway, or by Dudswell Junction, and thence by Ouebec Cen- tral to Le\is. Those from the Maritime Provinces reach Levis either by the Canadian I'acitic Short Line to Mei;antic and thence by the (Juebec Central, or by the Litercolonial Railway ; and in summer numerous steamships from lunopean and Lower St. Lawrence ports all make Ouebec a stopping point. '"3 Vv'>f;';r^jk Navigation Co. ply between Montreal and Ouebec. 'I'ourists from the Ne\ .. 'V*^'A^\, ICngland States who do not wish to visit Montreal can reach the Ancien -^^:>: OLD STAIRWAY FROM WOLFE'S COVE TO THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM IN AND AROUND QUEBEC. WHERE TO STOP. [""IIl'v Chateau P'rontenac, a magnihcent new fne- proof hotel, erected by a number of capitalists of Montreal, stands at the eastern end of a splenditl esplanade known as the Dulierin Terrace, r ()Lji:bi-:c — suMMi'R and winiicr. coniniandinL;" {IcIiL,htfiil views of tlic St. I-awrciicc as far as t lie eye can reach, — ilown past tlie Isle d'Orleans, across to Levis and tieyoiid, up stream to Sillery, and, to the left, the country alon^i; the beautiful valley of the St. Charles River. The _i;randei'r of the scenery is indescribable ; it is matchless in diversity arid charmini;- in effect. No j;rander site for such a structure could be found on the continent, and it would not be easy to combine the advantaL;es ic possesses in any place the world over. This ele,L;ant hotel, on which nearly Si, 000,000 has been judiciously expended, is erected on an historic s|)ot of more than ordinary interest — the site of the old Chateau St. Louis, so ianious in Canadian history, ami once the vice-regal residence of the (iovernors of Canada, both before and after the concpiest. "A massive, shapely edifice is this grand hotel on Dufferin Terrace," writes the well-known authoress. Faith l^V'nton ; "a veritable old-time chateau, whose curves and cupolas, turrets and towers, even whose tones of gray stone and (hdled briek harmonize well with the sober, cpiaint architecture of our dear olil Fortress City. Chateau Frontenac has been plannetl with that strong sense of the fitness of things. In exterior it blends with its surroundings; it is part of the wondrous pictures(|ueness. The interior magnit'icent outlook and hotel luxury are so connningied that neither seems to have been sacrificed to the other. The architect, Mr. Bruce Trice, must have a cunning brain to have thus devised this horse-shoe hotel — for thus it is shaped — and so mapped out its interior that all the offices and service-rooms, even the main entrance hall, with its pillared gateway, look out upon the inner curve, leaving every bit ot the outer circle, that faces the magnificent stretch of river and sky and far-off hills, to be devoted to guest rooms. It was a clever and difficult planning ; it required an et|ually clever anil difficult furnishing; for this horseshoe edifice possesses as many in- terior curves and corners as outer ones. It is delightfully unexpected in its ways. Rooms that are bow-shaped, crescent-shaped, circular; rooms that are acute-angled, obtuse-angled, triagonal, martello tower. 8 QUEBI'X — SUMiMl-:R AND WINTKR. sexagoniil — cvorylhinL;' except rii^ht-an^lcd. And then the stairwa) s — they are e\ery- where, and ec|ually [)retty and unit|ue in elleet. Every corner that one peeps hito alons^^ these wide, curvin^L;' c()rriih)rs holds an inviting little stairway — hright and soft, with rich crimson carpetnig and oak banisters — that tempts one to ascenil or descend just to find where it leads. The broad entrance hall and offices, the great rotunda and reading-room, have tessellated floors, and are large, light, airy, and finely furnished. The stairways and banisters are of oak — a wood that is much used throughout the building. Ascending the main stairway, which leads by easy turns from the vestibule, we come upon one of the most artistic eliects in the building, for, standing in the broad corritlor, beautiful with its white panellings, oak fioor, and crimson A.xnfinstcr, we look between large, creamy, daintily-moulded pillars into the long drawing-room, and beyond it into the ladies' pavilion. It is a wonderfully pretty and artistic entrance that these white, carven pillars altord. It brings a suggestion of the Renaissance and the white and g(jld days of Louis (Jiunze. The ladies' pavilion is delightful. It might be called the ladies' rotunda, for it corresponds with that of the one below. It is perfectly round, of course, with those fine square carven jiillars forming the entrance way, and a central round pillar supporting the graceful sprays of lights. Half of the circling wall is filled with windows that look out upon a scene, than which no fairer one exists. I^'rom the gray Citadel, along and adown the ri\er, to Isle cl'Orleans — with Lower Town lying beneath the Terrace antl all the landscape beauty across the rapitl water — truly, it is a su[)erb eastern portal, a fit correspondent for Canada's magnificent mountain guardians of the west." There are many suites in this big hotel, some of them containing as many as eight rooms, and of one the following description is given: "Two dainty bech'ooms and two ecpially dainty bathrooms, in white marble and gold, lead from either end of a bow-shaped boudoir, whose curve is one unbroken line of beautiful windows, richest Axminster of glowing crimson, creamv panellings, tinted walls antl ceiling, deep window-seats — all these the room possesses, but one sees them not ; they are as nothing compared to the great curve of radiance that shnies and sparkles from this splendid bow of light. . . . The hotel thioughout M _ if ''S{o\srmi-r''- lo- OUEBPX — SUMMl'R AND WINTER. is carpeted with Axminster ami Wiltons in deep crimsons and moss tureens — our footfalls press away into sottest plush. The furniture is chicHy oak. The bedroom furnishings are much alii'ie throughout — handsome brass bedsteads, oak furniture, and cosy upholstering in each room. "It is one of the features of Motel I'^rontenac that, from lowest to topmost story, every- thing is of the best. It is equally a feature that the fourth, fifth and sixth stories are more desirable than the lower ones, for the higher one climbs the wider the panorama of river, hill and sky that unrolls to one's view. "The dining hall is rich and in absolute harmony with the Louis Uuinze conception. It is a very large, scpiare, airy room, with windows looking out upon the river. The floor is of oak, in herring pattern. The wainscoting is of leather, studded with brass nails. The wall above is freely panelled in oak, and decorated between with richly tinted tapestry. This warm, dull, tinted tapestry, crowded with quaint figures, is an amusement and delight to the eye, and under the soft electric glow the result is absolutely satisfying. ... A peep into the kitchen — a great, wide, cleanly place, made busy at that moment with dinner preparations — is a revelation. "One of the things a woman notices first is the table furnishing. And these at Chateau Frontenae have been chosen with perfect taste, from the simple silver-rimmed castor, with its sc|uare-cut bottles, to the tiny fruit spoon — everything harmonizes in the most satisfying way." DUFFERIN TERRACE. THIC pride and the glory of Quebec is Dufferin Terrace, an unrivalled promenade and public rendezvous. From it, or better, from any of tlie windows in the Chateau Frontenae, which stands at its eastern limit and at the base of the Citadel, a view, unsurpassed for beauty and grandeur, bursts upon the beholder. The broad ( .) U E H EC — S U M M E R A N D W I N T IC R. II promciuule is fully a quarter of a mile long, and ereeted on it are five hanilsome kiosks, to which the names of Plessis, Erontenae, I.orne and Eouise, Dufferin, and X'ictoria have been given, besides another for the use of bands of music, which at times are those belonging to British and Ereneh men-of-war visiting the port. Elevated 200 feet alxn-e the St. Eawrence, which here contracts its liigh banks until but a mile separata's them, it is a point of vantage from which to d nk in the feast of scenic spendor which is spread out before one. There is the mighty river — described by Howells as the "Little (Jiant " — on whose bosom floats craft of every description, from the huge ocean greyhound to the priniitixe canoe of the Indian ; across the water is Levis, on whose crowning cliffs, rising higher even than those of O'^"-'^'-'^"' arc three innnense forts erected by the British (jovernment at a cost approaching $1,000,000; down the stream is the beautiful Isle d'Orleans — the Isle of liacchus of Jacques Cartier, and at a later time known as Sorcerer's Island, for in the firefly lights that tlaiiced over its swami)S the native Intlians and the early Ereneh settlers saw the work of His Satanic Majesty and his uncanny followers, l-'arther away is Ca[)e 'rourmente, and along the shores are the quaint villages of the liabitaiits and the narrow-stripped farms which e.xcite the surprise and curiosity of the traveller. To the LITTLE CHAMPLAIN STREET, QUEBEC. 12 QUEBKC — SUMMER AND WINTICR. left the St. Charles i;racetiill} sweeps and blends its waters with the -greater stream. Forest and river and nKHUitain and cultivated broad acres combine to make _i;orgeous land- scape, and in the rear tower the Laurentian Hills, whose purpled crests lose themselves in the fleecy clouds. At one's feet is the bustling" Lower Town and the shi|)s in port, and above is the frownini;- Citadel whose hoary walls have environed Quebec with a glamour of romance and renown. Every foot of land here is historic ground ; the very air breathes of deeds of valorous daring and military prowess, which even the peaceful aspect of the i)resent or the hum and bustle of everyday business near by fails to dispel, for here the Kings of Old France sent the men and treasure to build up a New I'^rance on this side of the Atlantic, where these gall adventurers lived and plotted and fought and wrested countless leagues of land from the sav ^ and whose prowess slied lustre on la belle I"" ranee. Looking down from the Terrace f narrow street bearing the name of the founder of (Juebec is seen, and its long length to the foot of the Citadel cliff, just beyontl which is the narrow pass where heroic M()Wr-^>.iin.i fell mortally wounded while gallantly leading his men in a rash and daring attack on tlie city. Almost directly under the northern end of the Terrace, where the cliff stands back farther from the river, and the streets and buildings huddle closer together, is the iiistoric Church of Notre Dame des Victoire, and a little to the south is the Champlain market hall, and very near its site the first building in Ouebec was erected in i6oS by the adventurous and chivalrous Champlain. It included a fort, a residence, and stores. Here was the first clearing made ; the next was that upon a portion of which the Chateau Frontenac now stands, whiic Cham])]ain erected the Chateau St. Louis, which jilayed so prominent a jiart in Canadian history, at a later era being the castle whence the French go\-ernors exercised un(lis[)uted sovereignty from tiie mouth of the Mississippi to the great inland lakes of Canada, and along the shores of the St. Lawrence and its Gulf. Its cellar still remains under the wooden covering of the present Durham Terrace, immediately adjoining the Chateau Frontenac. In the rear of the Chateau St. Louis was the area of the fort now covered by the Flace d'Armes and a part of the hotel. This fort was frequently attacked by the intreiMd and ferocious Iroquois, who, having overthrown the outposts, more than once threatened the fort itself. ouKBi'X — sui\ii\n:R and \\1\ti:r 13 THE CITADEL. 'III'L Citadel occupies tlic most commanding; position in Ouebcc, overlooking the St. Law- rence and the country round, and having a clear range for its guns in every direction. It stands 303 feet above the river, and at one time was a formidable position of defence, so much so that (Juebec has sometimes been called the dibraltar of America. Though still a fortress, its present chief use is as a barrack, and in it are kept immense military stores and arms for 20,000 men. Access is gained to the ti-enches by the Chain gate, and to the Citadel by the iJalhousie, named after a former Governor. The Citadel is about ten minutes' walk from the Chateau I'rontenac. THE GOVERNOR'S GARDEN. '"'pill'^ Go\einor's Garden is a puh'Iic park a little A in the rear of the Duiferin Terrace, and close to the Chateau b'rontenae. It is a prettv little retreat, and in it is a dual-faced stone column to Wolfe and Ab)ntcalm, erectetl in 1827 and 1828 in joint honor ot the illustrious generals, to whom, in the words ot the inscription, " \'alor gave a common death, history a common fame, and posterity a common monument." HOPE HILL, 14 OUEBKC — SUMMKR AND WINTICR. PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. THI': Plains of Abraham, of which mention lias been made, is one of the chief points of interest. Here was the battlefield where Wolfe fell and Montcalm foiii;ht his last tii^'ht. The plain is the tableland on the crest of the heii;lits on the north bank of the St. Lawrence River, which were thou,i;ht to be too jirecipitous for an enemy to climb. The heights were, however, c|iiietly and success- fully scaled, and on 13th September, I75(), the memorable liattle fought on their edge which decided the fate of Canada. A tall marble shaft now stands to mark the spot where Wolfe fell, mortally wounded, and bears the inscription: "Here dieil Wolfe victo- rious." His illustrious rival, Aiont- calni, also wounded, retreated to the Citadel to die there. On the plains, where some of the heaviest fighting oc- curred in the famous battle, are three Martello towers, ■ not erected, however, until I (Si 2, which, while formida- WOLFE'S MONUMENT. bly built, were weakly constructed towards the city, so that in case of capture they might easily be de- stroyed. The field of the battle is a short and pleasant walk from the hotel, a little beyond the St. Louis gate, on the road to Spencer Wood, the official residence of the Lieut. - Governor of the Province of Ouebec, and in olden days the home of the Governors-General of Canada. A shoit distance off, on the escarpment o\ei hanging the St. Lawrence, is the path bv which the Hiitish troops scaled the cliffs on the night befiu'e the battle, and at the foot of the rocks is Wolfe's Cove. THE URSULINE CONVENT. THI': Ursuline Con- vent isdirectlv eon- nected with this ],' important battle on the Plains of Abraham, by OUl'Bl'X — SUMMER AND WINTER. 1$ reason of its containin.i;- tlic rL'inains of Montcalm, whose Ixuly is buried in tlie Con\ent, while his skull is kept in the chaplain's parlor. This, the oldest convent in (Juebec, was founded in 1639, destroyed by tire in 1650, rebuilt to meet a similar fate in 16.S6; but the ori<;inal foundations and the' walls of the second buildin,-;- are still utilized in the third structure. The convent is a pile of massive stone edifices, and the chapel contains the remains of Montcalm and what are claimed to be the foUowint,^ relics : the body of St. Clements from the Catacombs of Rome, broui;ht to the Ursulines in iC)87 \ the skull of one of the com- panions of St. Ursula, 1675 ; the skull of St. Justus, 1662 ; a piece of the Holy Cross, 1667; a portion of the Crown of Thorns, brou-ht from Paris in 1830. It is open to visitors, who may there see some rare works of art, including; paintini;s by Vandyke and Chami)aL;ny, the prop- erty of the Sisters of the Convent. THE HOTEL DIEU. ^pHE Hotel Dieu, a convent and a hospital, founded by a niece of Cardinal Richelieu, con- ^ tains some fine pictures. In the chapel of the convent is the skull of Jean de Brebeuf, the ^t;-reat Jesuit missionary, of whose doin<^s Parkman and Charlevoix have i;iven a most interesting;- and trustworthy account. The establishment is open to visitors on application to the Lad\- Superior. CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DES VICTOIRES. THIS historic little edifice is one of the interesting- sii;hts of the Lower Town, bavin,-;- been partially destroyed by the fire of the Levis batteries during- Wolfe's sie<;-e of Uuebec in 1759, 'I'l^' subsequently rebuilt upon its old walls. The /fA- of Notre Dame de la Victoire was established in sacred commemoration of the defeat of the British invaders under (leneral Phipps in 1690. to ])e annually celebrated in the church on October 7th, and after the ship- wreck of the second British invadin,<; fleet, fourteen years later, which the P'rench inhabitants re.i^anled as a miraculous interposition of Providence in their favor, the eilitice was given the name it still bears. i6 OlMCBI-X — SUMMI'.R AND VVINTI'R. THE LAVAL UNIVERSITY. TllK Laval University is the ehief I*'reiich Universit)-, and the oldest in Canada. Laval jj;revv out of the Seminary of (Juebec, founded in 1663, whieh was liberally endowed by the first l^ishops of the Sec, and it has an exeellent museum, a library of 100,000 vol- umes, and many art treasures in its keeping;-. In its j;allery of paintini;s — a miniature \'atican eollection — are two Salvator Rosas, three Teniers, a Romenelli, a Joseph V'ernet, a Puget, two Vandykes, a Leroeei Poussin, and many other masterpieces. THE CARDINAL'S PALACE. \ DJOINING Laval is the palace of His I''minence, Cardinal Taschereau. In its grand sn/o/i ■^»- i/t' irccptioit are the throne of the Cartlinal, busts and portraits of all his predecessors, and his rare gifts from the Pope. There are many other buildings in Ouebec interesting to a visitor who is or who desires to place his mind cii rapport with the early history of Canada, and there are modern edifices, such as the Legislative buiklings, custom-house. Church Hall, Y. M. C. A. building, court house, armory and drill hall, etc., and modern public works like the immense tiilal basins, which can hardly fail to attract attention. Sauntering about the city the American tourist will constantly meet with curious and unaccustometl architectural sights. The (irand Battery, on the very edge of the cliff overlooking the river, mounted with guns of obsolete pattern, is a favorite resting place from which splendid views of the ri\er and surrountling country are obtained. The " Break Neck Steps," although demolished and repkiced by a modern structure, will yet strike him as well deserving their name, and in that jiortion of the city called " Sous le Cap" he will see a great contrast to corresponding port ons of any American city he is acquainted with. *ifk-i'm» I'l? M ''Mmw VIEW FROM THE CITADEL QUEBEC IN WINTER i8 oui:iu:t: sL'Mmi:r and winiiir. THE GATES OF THE CITY. 'T^IIRKI'^ ,u;;itcs serve to maintain tlic fciulal aspect of the ai)i)r()acii to the city from the west. -•■ Only one of them, ho\ve\er, is ancient — St. John'.s — the other two, Kent anci St. Louis, bein<;- modern structures. The foundation of the hitter ^ate was hiid by Princess Louise, and Queen X'ictoria contributed j^enerously to the Kent, named in lionor of her fatlier, who was at one time commander of the British forces in Canachi. Tiie Provincial (iovernment build- in<4S, risin't;' majestically from an elevated site, and commanding an ailmirable \ iew of the sur- roundinj;' country, are near the St. Louis j^^ate. HISTORIC RUINS. 0\'1'>R in the valley of the St. Charles, the -' which may also he reached by train or steamer. I'^n loute is ICtchemin (or New Liverpool), which jios- sesses one of the handsomest churches in America, its frescos eliciting the atlmiration of all who have visiteil the edifice. ISLE D'ORLEANS. A SAIL down the river to this beautiful island, where a number of wealthy (juebeckers have summer residences, is one of the attiactions which should not be missed, and an afternoon can be pleasantly spent by takini;" steamer immediately after luncheon and returning" to the Chateau Lron- tenac in time for dinner. THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. Tmesis are situated about eight miles below Que- bec. The dri\e to them — a faxorite trip with all visitors — is through an almost continuous succession of T'rench Canadian farms and cottages. On the road is Beauport, a place bombarded by Wolfe, and now containing one of the j^rincipal Canadian hospitals for the insane. The Falls of IMontniorenei are lOO feet higher than those of Niag- ara, and in winter a large cone of ice, which is fre- quently utilized by ])leasure parties from Ouebec as a toboggan slide, usually forms at the foot. The CALECHE DRIVING. OUKBI-X — SUMMKR AND \VI\ri:R. 2i Natural Steps, about a mile above the falls, where the river dashes wildly throu.nh a deep eauon, are anioni;'st the j^randest features of Montmorenei. The rixerside ])arishes of I/Aiij;e (iardien and Chateau Rieher, the former of whieh was destroyed bv Wolfe's soldiery in 1759, afford e.xcellent fishing. The tourist may also <;() to Montmorenei by the Ouebee, Montmorenei & Charlevoix Railway, and by steamer in summer. LA BONNE STE. ANNE. 'T^HE shrine of Ste. Anne de Ik'aupre, for over 250 vears the Meeea of devout pil,L;rims seek- A ill"; restoration of health, is twenty-one miles from Ouebee. and is reaehed b)- the (Juel)ee, Montmorenei & Charlev(M.\ Railway, or by steamer in summer. Tradition relates that in the early part of the seventeenth century some lireton mariners, who were overtaken by a violent storm while navi<;atiny the St. Lawrence, solemnly vowed to Ste. Anne that, if delivered trom the dang'ers which encompassed them, they would erect a sanctuary in her honor on the si)ot on which they should land. Tluir prayers 'bi.'inj;- heard, they built a small wooden L'hapel in fulfilment of their vows, which has since become famous, and which then, as now, was called by her name. The primitive little church was rejilaced by a lar,i;er structure in 1660, which, subsecpiently rebuilt and enlarged, finally gave way to the jiresent magnificent edifice, and it was raised to the dignity of a Basilica by Po|ie Pius IX. It is a fine specimen of Corinthian architecture, and is of immense proportions. A colossal statue of Ste. Anne, of marvellous beauty, surmounts the facade between twin towers rising to a great height. The interior of the sacred edifice rivals the most famous cathedrals in the world in beauty and imposing grandeur. On each side of the entrance arc large pyramids of crutches and canes and trusses and splints left by former owners as mute testimony of the saint's intervention on their behalf. There is also another statue of Ste. Anne, resting on a column of white mfuble, to which some deeply venerated relics are attached — a fragment of a finger bone of the saint ]irocured by Laval, the first bishop of New I'rance ; a part of the saint's wrist sent by Leo XIII. ; and a portion of the rock from the grotto in which Ste. Anne gave birth to the V^irgin Mary. The "sacred stairs," which the zealous supplicants ascend upon their knees, is built in imitation of ou]:i?i-:c — suMMicR and winter. Pilate's Palace at Jerusalem, and the nia^niliccnt paiiitinj^s and statuary rci)resent the life of Christ from Bethlehem to Calvary. Thousands of tourists visit this fragment of old-time Palestine, as .Ste. Anne de Jk'aupre has heen called, impelled by the curious scenes witnessed there and the costly works of art possessed by the sanctuar\- ; and the hi_i;h esteem in which the patron saint is held is shown by the remarkable increase in the perennial pili^ri mages to her shrine. In 1874 there were 1 7,200 \isitors ; in 18N4, 61,000; in 18S9, 100,000; in 1893, 130,000; and in 1894 about 200,000, which number was lar.gely exceeded in 1895. I'ormerly the i)il- _<;rimages w-ere from the I'rovince of Uuebec only ; but now thev are from the other i)rovinces of Canada and from the United States ami Iun'oi)e. Good accommodation is providetl visitors. LORETTE. LORETTI^ is another place to which visitors are fond of drivini;-. It is an Indian villa<;^e on the St. Charles River, al-out nine miles from (Juebec, and there are some beautiful falls in the immediate nei^ghborhood, dit"ferin<;' widely fiom the cataract of Montmorenci, but equally as strikins;" in their beauty. Here will be found the remnant of the once powerful Ilurons, who, after the treacherous massacre of theii^ tribe by the Irocpiois, sou:;ht refuge near Quebec, and, adopting the religion and language of the early I'rench settlers, allied themsehes with them in resisting the incursions of the common enemy. The \illage was first settled in 1697, The Lorette Chapel, nearly 200 years old, is of the same model and dimensions as that of tlie Santa Casa, from which the image of the Virgin, a copy of that in the famous sanctuary, was sent to the Indians. In everv direction around (Juebec the country affords charming drives, and at the French- Canatlian \illages, which occur with more or less fretpiency, a stranger will be able to com- pare the |)eculiarities of life amongst a jieople who, more than any other in .America, have pre- served the traditions of their ancestors, with the essentially modern customs and lines of thought which characterize the rural settlements of t)ther parts of the continent. 24 OUKBKC — SUMMER AND WINTER. LAKE ST. JOHN. ONE hundred and ninety miles from Quebec, via the Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, thi"ou,i;h a country \vht)se wild grandeur has earned for it the title of "The Canadian Adirondacks," is the great inland sea — Lake St. John. It is a favorite resort for health and [)leasure-seekers, Roberval, on the lake, having magnificent hotels. The fishing is excel- lent. Tomists, in summer, are olfered an enjoyable round tri[) from Quebec to Lake .St. John and thence to Chicoutimi by rail, and down the famed Saguenay, whose scenery is awe-inspir- ing, and back to vjucbcc by steamer. DOWN THE GULF. APLICASANT trip down the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence is afforded the visitor to Quebec. Passing Cape Tourmente and Grosse Isle, the quarantine station for Quebec, many islands of remarkable scenic beauty dot the river. Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, Cacouna anil Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, are fashionable watering resorts, with good hotel accommodation and excellent bathing facilities. The trip can be extended down the Gulf to Prince lulward Island and to St. John's, Newfoundland, ITalifa.x, N. S. ; and to New York, Boston, and other American ports. CapT^ur'^pnte • QUEBEC IN WINTER. WHILE Quebec is pre-eminently a charming summer resort and an interesting city at all times, it perhaps possesses the greatest attraction to many during the winter months. At the first appearance of snow and frost the city awakens into new life, and prepares for the merry season, which is prolonged into the early days of spring. The whole country is covered with a spotless white OUEIU^C — SUMMER AND vVINTKR. 25 mantle of snow, on which the northern sun plays in dazzling brilliancy ; (glorious sunsets flood the heavens, burnishing the city's minarets and spires with a golden tinge, and, as the shadows of evening creep on, the matchless aun^-a borealis, the dancing rainbows of the northern sky, entrance one with their ever-changing, resplendent beauty. The streets of the city take on a new a])pcarance : thronged with warmly clad groujis, and hundreds of carioles, queer little sleds peculiar to this c(uaint old place, dash along, their jingling bells filling the air with silvery music. The season is one of pleasure and recreation, and there are countless means atforded for indulging in delightful pastimes that are invigorating and health- giving — tobogganing, most exhilarating and exciting of sports; skating in mammoth covered rinks, snow-shoeing, curling, sleigh-driving, and other seasonal)le pleasures which lintl a fitting nightly finale in the social functions given by the most hospitable of people. "The city itself and the winter life within its walls," writes Julian Ralph, the well-known correspondent, "are prime curiosities. The great granite walls capped and flanked with snow ; the narrow curving streets heaped with snow; the houses all fringed with ponderous icicles; the trees whose every limb is outlined with a coating of snow ; the sleighs all buried in furs ; the people in blanket suits and furs and moccasins ; the gorgeous snow-shoers ; the priests and soldiers and nuns — all these shown off beside the ice-gUitted river are quite enough to satisfy the tourists without the added trifles of a curling match or a masquerade on skates, or even a vice-regent's ball." These days of delights are accentuated in carnival times, when the Merry Mniarch occupies his winter capital. Quebec is an ideal carnival city, and contrives to evolve liom its winter's rigors a series of fairy-like spectacles that can only be dreamed of as happening in an enchanted land. The city is cu'fcte; mirth and jollity and good-fellowship prevail ; and visitors, whether inclined to participate in the festivities or not, enjoy a season of unalloyed deliglit and sight- seeing without parallel in the world. Huge ice castles and fortresses, aglow with a thousand scintillating lights, are stormed by a host of gaily-costumed snow-shoers, armed with weapons whose discharge is followed by elaborate pyrotechnical displays ; magnificent arches of ice and evergreens beautify the streets so profusely and of such a varied character as to be almost be- wildering ; the public squares are adorned with historic figures neatly shaped in ice ; there are grand military pageants, and picturesque Indian, lumber and sugar camps, which give a glimpse 26 OUICBEC — SUMMER AND \VINTI':R. of a curious life stran,2;c to many ; and the accustomed out-door sports arc indulged in with aug- mented vigor. The days and niglits arc replete with innocent and healthful amusements, to which zest is addetl by the keenness of the climate, which inspires one to live out-of-doors, and not infrecjuently by an old-fashioned snow-storm. In these bright, glorious days, the stranger is advised to wrap warmly if he would participate in the mid-winter pleasures of the snow-man- tled "White City of the North," whose clear, invigorating, hy[)erborean air is not less delight- ful in its season than are the balmy breezes hich waft gently from the old Laurentians and make the ancient capital an ideal resting" place in the summer days. MONTREAL, THE COMMERCIAL METROPOLIS. MONTREAL is second only to Quebec in historic interest. It is picturesquely situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River, at the head of oce .1 ''..vigation, and yet over 600 miles inland, and is the commercial metropolis and railway centre of the Dominion. Montreal ranks amongst the most beautiful cities of the continent, and has very many attrac- tive and historic spots which cannot fail to interest ami delight sight-seers. It distinctively presents all the aspects and elements of metropolitan life, with evidences of material wealth and prosperity on every hand. It is pre-eminently a city of churches, surpassing P)rooklyn itself in this respect, and in the midst of the bustle of the city's commerce are gray old sanc- tuaries and stately cathedrals which rival the grandest edifices of luu'ope in splendor and his- toric interest. The cathedrals of Notre Dame and St. James, the latter modelled after St. Peter's at Rome, the Jesuit Church and College, Ponsecours Church, erected in 1771, the English Cathedral, St. James (Methodist), and lu'skine, St. Paul's, and St. Andrew's (l^resby- terian), are worth seeing. Mount Royal, from which the city takes its name, affords a ilelightful drive, and from its sunmiit is seen one of the grandest panoramas of the picturesque valley of CITY OF MONTREAL. 28 oui<:bkc — summi:r and winter. the St. Lawrence that is obtainable. Beyond tlie Ik-lieil peaks eastward the Green Mountains of Vermont can be distinguished on clear days; to the south are the Adirondacks ; and alonj; the north runs the Laurentian ran.i;e, oldest of the world's mountains. Other points of interest are the Victoria Bridi^e spannin-;- the St. Lawrence, McGill University, Windsor Station anil ofifices of the Canadian racitic Railway Co., Nelson Monument, Champ de ]\Lirs (the military parade ground of the early tlays), the Maisonneuve Monument on Place d'Armes, the Sir John Macdonald Monument on Dominion Scpiare, Windsor Hotel, new Royal Victoria Hospital, the City Hall, Court House, Place d'Armes, Chateau d'Ramezay, ]5onsecours Market, etc. A run down the Lachine Rapids and a visit to the curious old Indian village of Caughnawaga, opposite Lachine, the home of the remnant of a once powerful nation, St. Helen's Island, Back River, or any of the numerous city parks ami public buildings, are worth making. OTTAWA, THE CAPITAL OF CANADA. VISITORS to Quebec, via Montreal, can easily reach Ottawa, the Capital of the Dominion, by the Canadian Pacific or other railways, or by river in summer, the railway run being less than four hours from the commercial metropt)lis. The site of Ottawa for pictur- esque grandeur, it has been stated, is only second to that of Quebec. It is located on the Ottawa River, where the Rideau and Gatineau join, and where the waters of the first named hurl themselves over the Chaudiere Falls into the seething cauldron below. But it is the national buildings which are the chief pride of Ottawa, ancl the principal objects of interest to tourists. They stand out boldly on Parliament Hill, overlooking the Ottawa, in all the beauty of seemingly varied architecture. They were erected at a cost of ab(nit §5,000,000. The octagonal-shaped library in rear of the Houses of Parli;unent is one of the most com])lete in the world, and contains 155,000 volumes, some of which are exceedingly rare books. Other objects QUEBEC — SUMMER AND WINTICR. 29 of interest arc Ridcau Hall, the home of the Governor-General of Canada, Riileaii Canal and Major Hill J'ark, the city l)uildin,i;s, extensive saw-mills, and the timber slides by which the square timber from the Upiicr Ottawa i)asses down without dama^^e into the navigable waters below. To go down these slides, as nearly every visitor does, is an e\citin<; and cxhilaratini;- experience. Opjiosite Ottawa is the French city of Hull, and combined they have a jiopula- tion of over 60,000. The Citadel Duffcriii Terrace I'lains of Abraham Cliateau Frontenac Martello Tnwers YOU SHOULD Ciovernor's Garden Duke of Kent's Residence Montcalm's Residence The Esplanade The City's Gates Ursuline Convent Parliament lUiildings New Court-1 louse Falls of Montmorenci Lake Beauport Lorettc Quebec Seminary Notre Dame des Victoires Shrine of Ste. Anne Chaudiere Falls Isle d'Orleans Grand Battery Wolfe's Monument Laval L^niversity CardinrU's I'alace F'rench Cathedral I'^nglish Cathedral Ladies' Protestant Home Short-Wallick Monument Chateau d'Eau Beauport Asylum Lake St. Charles Cap Rouj:;c Wolfe's Cove I'orts of Levis Sous le Cap tir. • •• I V' ,'»'.. ••• » *> fttt «• %• ••••• CHATEAU FRONTHNAC ''(S:^^ ....DUFFERIN TERRACE, QUEBEC, CAN, RAT1:S FROM S^^so to S,-.oo PER DAY. ROOMS SlNGLh OR EN SUITE Spf.cial ArrAxNgemknts with • Large Partii-s and • Those Making Prolonged Visits. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ADURFSS Manager CHATEAU FRONTGNAC, Quebec. Publications l«SUIO BY TNC CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY COHPANY "THE NEW HIGHWAY TO THE ORIENT." ' SUMMER TOURS." " FISHING AND SHOOTING." "WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST." A BgiJ* to ^ Princfpal Citid of Japan and China. ■♦•■•- "TIME-TABLE WITH NOTES."^ "BANFF," "AUSKA." "HAWAII." "AROUND THE WORLD." "NEW ROUTE TO AUSTRALIA." VjK OST of ihete puUicationt are handsomely illustrated, and contain much useful infonnation in interesting shape. " Time-Table with Notes " will be Iffll found a valuable companion for all transcontinenul travellers. Copies may be obtained FREE from Agents of the Company, or will be mailed to yvx any address on applicauon to undersigned. The Company have also published a new map, on the polar projection showing the whole of the northern nemisphere, and the Canadian Pacific Railways Around the World Route in a novel and interesting way, and another of Canada and the Northern half of the United SUtes, showing the enure system of the Company in detail. These maps will be given away for public and prominent display. The Com- pany now tave on Mie, in their hotels, principal ticket offices, and on the trains, several series of handsomely finished views of scenes along their line of railway. Sue:Mp by n inches, in portfolios suitable for the table (twelve views in each serii^), Price $1.50: and views, aa by 38 inches, suuable forfram- ing (three views m the set), in mailing tube. Price $1.00. O. B. M0PHBR8ON, Aut. General Passenger Agrnt, I King St., East, Toronto. H. J. OOLVIN, District Passenger Agent, 197 Washington St., Boston. A. H. NOTMAlf. District Passenger Agent, St. John, N.B. J. F. LEffi. General Agent, Passenger Dept., aji South Clark St., Chicago, III. BOBBBT KBRB, TtaflSc Manager, Lines West of Lake Superior, WiNNiPbe. O.MoL. BROWN. District Passenger Agent, Vancouvbh, B.C. B. V. SKINNBB, General Eastern Agent, 353 Broadway, N.Y. W.' B. OALIjAWAY, General Passenger Agent, Soo Line, _ MlNNBAFOUS. ABCHBIB BAKBB, European Traffic Agent, 67 and (8 Kine William St., E.C., and 30 Cockspur St., S.W., Lonimn, Enc. 7 James St., LiVBRlooL. 67 St. Vincent St., Glasgow. O. SHBBiEr7, District Passenger Agent, II Fort St. W., Detkoit, Mich. , O. B. B. nSSHBB, Asst. Genera) Passenger Agent, H. McMUBTBIB, Passenger Agent, Cor. I'hird and Chestnut Sts., Phila- DBLPHiA, and 203 East German St., Baltimors. M. M. STBBN, District Passenger Agent, Chronicle Bldg., San Francisco. Q. W. HIBBARD. Acting General Passenger Agent, D., S. S. & A. Ry., Marqubtte, Mich. D. B. BBOWNi General Agent China, Japan, etc., Hong Kong. D. McNICOLL. Passenger Traiiic Manager, Montrbal. CHATEAU FRONTENAC, DUFFERIN TERRACE: QUEBEC — WINTER.