IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 IP- IIM ^ 1^ 12.0 I.I 1.25 1.8 U 111.6 V] <^ /} ^l y .^.^^.> ^'^'^ Photograpliic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 iV iV % V -^^ a^ mmm B 2 / / -ya ADVERTISEMENT. In the preparation of this, and of the preceding vokimes, of Travels in the South of Europe, in 8outh America, and in Africa ; as well as in the Biographical Conversations on Celebrated Voy- agers and Travellers, it has been the design of the author, by a detail of anecdotes of extraordinary adventures, connected by illustrative remarks and observations, to allure young persons to a study of geography, and to the attainment of a knowledge of the character, habits, customs, and produc- tions of foreign nations. The whole is supposed to be related in a series of daily instructions, from a parent to his children. The " Biographical Conversations on Celebrated Travellers," contain a further account of the United States and of Canada, in Professor's Kahn's Travels through those countries; and of the northern regions of America, in the Narra- tives of Hearne's Journeys from Hudson's Bay, to the Northern Ocean. The vignette represents the natural arch, called Rock-bridge, described in page 10^. Charlotte Street^ Bloomshiry^ London^ 22d July, 1821. ■*«®»?WM3 INDEX OF THE COUNTRIES, ^ND PRINCIPAL PLACES AND OBJECTS DESCRIBED. )' North America in General, Umtkd States in General P«gt 1 Account of New York and Us viciniti/. Inhahitantsof New York, 12 — Situatio.i, Streets, Popu- lation, Hotels, 13 — Stores, Public Buildings, Columbia College, 14 — Town Hall, Trades and Professions, 15 — Housc-rtnt, Provisions, Religion, Courts of Law, 16 — lior.g Inland, New Jersey, River Hudson, New- ark, Fii^hkill, Steam-boats, 17 — Emigrants, 18. Nurrdi'irf of Fi'aron'H Journey from New York to Boston. New Haven, 18 — New London, Norwich, New Provi- dence, 1!> — Pawtucket, Boston, 20— Bunker's Hill, Cambridge, Harvard College, XI. WchVs Voyage, up the River Hudson^ from New York to I,i(kc Champlaln. River Hudson, 22— West Point, Albany, 2.3— River ^lohawk, Cohoz Waterfall, Saratoga, 2a — Skeuesbo- rough, liake Chaniplain, 26 — Ticonderoga, Crown Poiiit, 27. HcWs Journey from Canada to the Cataract of Niagara. Proscott. 28 — Iliver St. Lawrence, Lake Ontario, Kingston, 29 — Sackett's Harbour, Watertown, Utica, ;{() — Skaneaetas, Waterloo, Geneva, Canandaigua, Jiurning Spring, .32 — Rochester, 33 — Lewistown, Queenston, 34 — York, Ancaster, Mohawk Indians. :{u_M(,hawk Yiliagc, 36— Falls of Niagara, 37- HaWn Journey from Niagara to Pldladclphiu. Fort Erie, Br.flalo, Bataviti, Caledonia, 41 — Genesee River, Bath, Painted Post, 42— Susfjuehanna River, V»'ilk;5l)arre, 4:i— Wyoming, Blue Ridge, Bethlehem, Nazareth, 44 — wloravians, Ao — Lehigh Mountain, German Town, 46. Dcscr'tpt'ion of PJiiladtlpli'ta. Streets, Houses, 46 — Shops, AVharfs, Water-Street, Public Buildings, 47 — State-house, University, Pri- son, 4H—jMarkLts, Itihabitants, 4t) — Funerals, ( li- mate, .')0 — Carriages, .11 — Taverns, 62 — Delaware River, Schiiylkil River, .').3. Trenton, College, .')'J— Residence of Joseph Buona- parte, 54. i INDEX. I'agt i 3 let, Ivi- lli- lire lia- Fraron' s Joiirnnj from Philadrlphiu to Pittxhiir^. Great Valley, Mines, 54 — Lancaster, Harrisburgh, Carlisle, Chambersburgh, AS — London, Waggons, North !AI()untain, 50— Bloody Run, Bedford, Dry llidge, Alleghany Mountains, Inhabitants, I-og- houses, 57 — Laurel Hill, LittleChesnut Ridge, Cireens- burg, Turtle Creek Hill, Inhabitants, 58— Pitts- burg, 59— Manutiictures, GO — Climate, American Po- pulation, O'l — Farms, Emigration, 02. Bukheclc's Expedition fnmi Pittsburg into the Illinois Territory. Travelling, fi3—Cannonsburg, Washrneton in Pennsyl- vania. State of Ohio, Wheeling, G4 — St. Clairsville, fS.'i — Farms, Zanesville, Rushville, Iiancaster, CO' — Chil- licothe. Pike Town, 67— Hurricane tract, 68— Leba- non, Cincinnati, Schools, 00 — State of Indiana, V'O— Camp Tavern, 71 — Vincennes, Indians, 72 — Prince- ton, 74 — Harmony, Mount Vernon, Big Prairie, 75 —Woods, and Farms, 7^ — Hunters, liittle Wabash, Skillet Fork, 77 — Shawnee Town, 78— Harmony, 7D Animals, 00 — English Prairie, 81. WehCs Excursion from Philadelphia to I, ashin^ion. Soliuylkil River, Chester, Brandy wine River, Wilming- ton, 82 — Elkton, Susquehannah River, Havre de Grace, Baltimore, 83. Description of Washingion. Origin, situation, form, Streets, Inhabitants, Capitol, 85 — President's House, Post-Office, lliver Potomac, Tiber, 80 — Markets, Shops, Inhabitants, Congress, Senate, 87 — Representative Chamber, George Town, 88— Alexandria, Mount Vernon, !{Jj. WchVs Journey frovi. Washington to Richmond in Virginia. ( Dunti'y, 89 — Hoe's Ferry, llapnahannoc River, Plan- tations in Virginia, 90 — Tappanannoc or Hob's Hole, Crbanna, 91— Fires in the Woods, 92— Cilouccster, York, AVilliamsburgh, College, 93 — Hampton, Chet^a- peak, Norfolk, 94 — Dismal f?lwunip, Junics River, 95 Taverns, Petersburgh, Richmond, 90 — Falls of the James River, Inhabitants of Virginia, 97. WehVa Return from Ridimond to Philadelphia. South-west or Green Mountains, Coimtrv and Animals, 98— Fire-flies, 99— Seat of Mr. Jellerson, I^ynch- burgh, 100 — Peaks of Otter, Fincastle, Soil and Cli- mate, 101— Sweet Springs, Jackson's Mountains, llockbridga, lO'i — ^Maddisou's Cave, Immigrants, 103 — Lexington, Staunton, Winclicster, Potomac River, Stujiendous Scene, 104 — Frederic, Philadelphia, 105. -■P/i-WUfi INDEX. II ■ it' II M'lchait.t^g Journey from Pittsburgh to Lexington. Wheeling, llivor Oliio, IOC— -Marietta, Point Pleasant, 107— Gallijioli, Alexandria, 108— Limestone, Ken- tucky, lOjj — Inhabitants, 1 10 — MavsIJck, Lexington, 111— Louisville, 112 — Caverns in Kentucky, 114. Michaurt Journey from Lexinffion to Charksion. Vineyards, 114 — Kentucky River, Harrodsburgh, Mul- der HiU, Darrens or Kentucky Meadows, 115 — Nasheville, 117— Cairo, Fort Blount, 118— West Point, Cherokee Indians, 119 — Kingstown, 120 — Knoxville, Holstein Uiver, Tavern, Macbv, 121 — Woods, f jOg-houses, Greenville, Jonesborough, 122— Alleghany Mountains, Linneville Mountains, Mor- ganton, 123 — Lincolnton, 124 — Chester, Winesbo- rough, Columbia, 125— Charleston, 126. Di'.fcription of Charleston. Situation, Quays, 12C — Streets, Houses, 127 — Public Uuildings, Trees in the Streets, Inhabitants, 128 — Vauxhall, Hotels, Market, Provisions, 129 — Marshes, VM). Adjacent country, 130 — Raleigh, Newbem, Savannah, in Georgia, 131. Biirtrani's Excursion from CTuirleston into Georgia and West Florida. Augusta, 133 — Country, fossil shells, Fort James, Dart- mouth, 134— Indian monuments, 135— Cherokee Set- tlements, Sinica, 135 — Keowe, Tugilo river, 13C — Sticoe, Cowe, 137— Cherokee Indians, 138 — Fort James, 140 — Country near the Oakmulge and Flint rivers, Uche, 141 — Apalachula, Coweta, Talasse, Coloome, 142 — Alabama river, Mobile, Pensacola, 144 — Mobile, Pearl river, Manchac, Mississippi river, 145— Mobile, Taensa, 140 — Tallapoose river, Ala- bama, Mucclasse, Apalachula river, Chehau, Usseta, 147 — Oakmulge, Oconne river, Ogeche, Augusta, Savannah, 148. Mr. BartranCs Journey from Savannah into East Florida. Sunbury, 148— Fort Barrington, St. lUe's, 149— Savan- nahs near river St. Mary, lliver St. Juan, or St. John, Cowford, 150— Plantation, 151— Indian VilLnge, 152 Charlotia or Rolle's Town, Mount Royal, 15^— Lake George, Spalding's Upper Store, 154— Adventure with Alligators, 155 — Alligators' nests, 157 — Lake, Forests, Plantation, Hot Fountain, Upper Store, Cus- cowilla, 159 — Sand-hills, Half-way Pond, Turtles, I^ake of Cuscowilla, IGO— Alachnas and Creek or Simi- f* ke, us- es, INDEX. nnle Indians, 161— Talahasochtc, Little St. John's lliver, 162. The lihrr Mhsisippt. Source, Length, I'anks, 1C.>— Tides, New Orleans, 166 —Adjacent Country, Natchez, KJ7— Navigation of the iVIississippi, 16» — New Madrid, the Onio, Illi- nois Territory, Kaskaski, 16!) — St. liouis, 170. Pikers V^oyagc from St. Lnui.s to the Source of the Mississipjii. St. Louis, 170 — Illinois River, Buflfido River, Sac In- dians, Salt River, I7I — Ranids des Moines, Jowa lliver, .Iowa Indians, Roctc River, 172 — Turkey River, Reynard Indians, Ouisconsin River, Pecant or Winehagoe Indians, 173 — Sioux Indians, Prairie des Chiens, 174 — Sauteaux or Chippeway River, Scenery of the Mississippi, Sioux Village, Canoe River, St. Croix River, 176— Cannen River, Indian Burying-place, Falls of St. Anthony, 177 — Rum River, Red Cedar Lake, Beaver Islands, Corheau or Raven River, 178~Pine Creek, Lake Clear, Clear Ri- ver, Winter Quarters, Indians,179— Falls of the Paint- ed Rock, Pine River, Chippeway Indians, 160 — Leech Lake, Pine Creek, 181— Indians, Falls of St. Anthony, Prairie des Chiens, 182 — Sioux and Puant Indians, Salt River, 103. Western Territory of America •« The River Missouri. Lewis and Clarke'' s Voyage from St. Louii to the Source of the Miisouri. St. Louis, Osage River, Osage Indians, Big Manitou Creek, 185— Kanzes River, Platte River, 186— Pawnee Indians, Ottoe and Missouri Indians, 187 — Indian Villages 188— Water of the Missouri, Fruit, Yankton Indians, 189 — Teton Indians, 191 — Ricara Indians, Chayenne River, 194 — Le Boulet or Can- non-ball River, Mandan Indians, 196 — Winter Quar- ters, 1 97 — Fort JNIandan, Ahanaway and Minetarree Indians, 198— Kniil? River, 199 — Little Missouri, In- dian Burying-place, 201 — Yellow Stone River, 202— Porcupine River, Muscle-shell River, 203 — Great Falls of the Missouri, 205— Maria's River, 207— Three Forks of the Missouri, 209— Source of the Missouri, 210. Lewis and Clarke^ $ Travels from the Source of the Missouri to the Pacific Ocean. Rocky Mountains, 210— Mountainous Country, In. dians, 211— Travellers' Rest Creek, Koos-koos-kee Pftfre 184 \ I it' ^. ,: ) INDEX. Pa«e River, Chopunnish Indians, 213— Shoshonces and Snake Indians, 214— Picrced-nose Indians, 21? — In- diHn Fisherifu, 21ti — Solkuk Indians, SIK— Columbia ox Oregan River, Echeloot Indians, 219 — The Pacific Ocean, Indians in the Vicinity of the Coast, 221. Lewis and Chrkc^s Return from the Pacific Ocean to St. Loiiix. Rocky Mountains, 225 — Travellers' Rest Creek, Clarke's River, Maria's River, Missouri River, 22C— Yellew- stone River, Jcffersun's River, 227— La Charette, St. Louis, 228. Pikers Journey from St. Louix^ through Louisiana to Sata /V, New Spain. Missouri River, St. Charles, Osage River, Gravel Ri- ver, 229 — Yungar River, (rrand P'ork, Osage Indians, 23U>-Kanzes River, Pawnee Indians, 231— Arkan- 8aw River, 232— Indians, 23.3 — (Jrand Pawnees, Rio Colorado, 234— Rio del Norte, 236— Santa F<^, 237. Miixico or New Spain in general 239 Pikc''s Journey from Santa Fe. to Monteloiez. St. Domingo, Albuquerque, Sibilleta, 247— Passo a Chine, 277— St. Ann's, I>.ake of the two Mountains, Utawas lliver. Portage de Chaudiere, 271J — I^ake Ne- pisingui, Nepisinguis Indians, Riviere de Francois, Lake Huron, Lake Superior, Algonquin Indians, 279 — Grande Portage, River Au Tourt, 280 — I,ake Wi. nipic. Cedar Lake, Mud Lake, Sturgeon Lake, Saskat- chiwine River, Beaver Lake, Lake of the Hills, Fort Chepewyan, 281. Account of the Knisteneaux and Chepewyan Ind'mnt. Knisteneaux, 282— Chepewyans, 285. Mackenzie' » Voyage from Fort Chepewyan^ along the Riven to the Frozen Ocean. Fort Chepewyan, 288 — Lake of the Hills, Slave River, Great Slave Lake, 289— lled-knife Indians, 290—- Slave and Dog-rib Indians, 291— Quarreller Indians, 294 — North Frozen Ocean, Whale Island, 295. Mackenzie's Return from the Frozen Ocean to Fort Chepewyan. Indians, 290— Account of the country, 297 — Woods and Mountains, 298— Fort Chepewyan. Description of the Western Coast of America^ from California to Behring's Strait. California, Gulf of California, Missionary Establish- ment, Indians of California, 299 — Monterey, New Albion, Nootka Sound, 300 — Indians of Nootku Sound, 301— Port St. Franjois, Indians, Prince William's Sound, 302 — Cook's River, Alyaska, Cape Newenham, 303— Behring's Strait, Cape Prince of Wales, 304. If "I ! I! Hi! II . r ! iif 304 INDEX Davis's Strait and Baffin's Bay ........ Rosses Voyage of Discovery ^ for the purpose of exploring Buffings Bay, and enquiring into the Probahility of a North-west Passage. Cape Farewell, Ice-bergs, Disco Island, 305,— Kron Prin's Island, Danish Settlement, Wayat's or Har-^ Island, Four Island Point, Danish Factory, 306,— Esquimaux of Greenland, Danger from the Ice, Whales, 307— Arctic Highlanders, 308— Arctic High- lands, Prince Regent's Bay, 315 — Sea Fowls, Crim- son Snow, Cape Dudley Digges, 317 — Wolsten- holme and Whale Sounds, Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, Alderma*^ Jones's Sound, Lancaster Sound, Croker Mountains, 31,8, 319. Parry's Voyage for the Discovery of a North-xcesi Passage. Lanca?ter's Sound, Poss':j*sion Bay, 319 — Croker's Bay, Wellington Channel, Uarrow's' Straits, 320— Bounty Cape, Bay of the Heclr and Griper, Melville Island, 321— Cape Providence, North Georgian Islands, 322 — Winter Quarters at Melville Island, 323— Cape Providence, Lancaster's Sound, Batfin's Bay, the Clyde, Esquimaux Indian3, 333. Labrador in general ...« ...•••• SSQ Gr££klan in general 339 t-TS 304 •sxphring llity of a ,— Kron or Har-^ , 306,— the Ice, ic Hiffh- s, Cnm- /rolsten- s Sound, , Croker th'teesi ;r's Bay, -Bounty e Island, nds, 322 •3— Cape lay, the 239 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA. rnoM MODERN WRITERS. ifxxst i©ap'0 3!ii0tniftioiu NORTH AMERICA. 1 ins division of the great western continent is moxt than five thousand miles in length ; and, in some lati- tudes, IS four thousand miles wide. It was ori-nnally discovered by Europeans, about the conclusion of the hfteenth century ; and, a few years afterwards, a party of Spanisli adventurers obtained possession of some of the southern districts. The inhabitants of these tliey treated ]ike wild animals, who had no property in the ^voods through which tiiey roamed. They expelled them from their habitations, established settlements ; and, taking possession o\l the country in the name of their sovereign, they appropriated to themselves the choicest and most valuable provinces. Numerous other •settlements have since been established in difierent parts oi the country; and the native tribes have nearly been exterminated, while the European i)()j)ulation and the descchdants of Europeans, have so much increased tliat, , "1 the United States only, there are now more tlian t-ni millions of white inhabitants. Tlie j«;yrtcc of tlie country is extremely varied. A m % NORTH AMERICA. double range of mountains extends tlirough the United States, in a direction, fro n south-west to north-east ; and another range traverses nearly the whole western regions, from north to south. No part of the world is so well watered with rivulets, rivers, and lakes, as this. Some of the lakes resemble inland seas. Lake Supe- rior is nearly 300 miles long, and is more than 150 miles wide ; and lakes Huron, Michigan, Erie, Onta- rio, and Champlain, are all of great size. The princi- pal navigable rivers of America are the Mississippi, the Ohio, the Missouri, and the Illinois. Of these tlie Mississippi flows from the north, and falls into tlie Gulf of Mexico. The Ohio flows into the Mississippi : it extends in a north-easterly direction, and receives fif- teen large streams, all of which are navigal)le. The Missouri and the Illinois also flow into the Mississippi : and, by means of these several rivers, a commercial in- tercourse is effected, from the ocean to vast distances into the interior of the country. Other important rivers are the Delaware and the Hudson, in the United States, and the St. Lawrence^ in Canada. The bays and harbours of North America are numerous, and many of them are well adapted for the reception and protection of ships. Hudson's Bay is of greater extent than the whole Bal- tic sea. Delaware Bay is 60 miles long ; and, in some parts, is so wide, that a vessel in the middle of it can- not be seen from either bank. Chesapeak Bay extends ii70 miles inland. The Bay of Honduras is on the south-eastern side of New Spain, and is noted for the trade in logwood and maliogany, which is carried on upon its banks. The natural productions of North America are, in many respects, important. I'he forests abound in va- luable timber-trees ; among w Inch are enumerated no fewer than forty-two different species of oaks. Fruit- trees of various kinds are abundant; and, in many places, grapes grow wild : the other vegetable produc- tions are numerous and important. Among the quad- rupeds are enumerated some small species of tigers, I. Uniu'd h-east ; western /orkl is as this. 3 Supe- lan 150 , Onta- » princi- ppi, the lesc the the Gulf iippi : it lives fif- c. The sissippi : rcial in- distances int rivers A States, harbours them are of ships, ole 13al- in some ' it can- extends on the for the Irried on are, in Id in va- rated no Fruit- In many Iproduc- |ie quad- tigers, THE UNITED STATES. 9 deer, elks of immense size, bisons, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, porcupines, and opossums. The American forests abound in birds; and in those of districts that are distant from the settlements of men, wild turkeys, and several species of grouse are very numerous. In some of the forests of Canada, passenger-pigeons breed in myriads; and, during their periodical flight, from one part of the country to another, tlieir numbers darken the air. The coasts, bays, and rivers, abound in fish ; and various species of reptiles and serpents are known to inhabit the interior of the southern districts. Among the mountains most of the important metals are found: iron, lead, and copper, are all abundant; and coals are not uncommon. THE UNITED STATES. That part of North America which is under tlie government of the United States, now constitutes one of the most powerful and most enlightened nations in tlie world. The inhabitants enjoy the advantage of a vast extent of territory, over which the daily increasing population is able, with facility, to expand itself; and much of this territory, though covered with forests, is capable of being cleared, and many parts of it are every day cleared, for the purposes of cultivation. The origin of the United States may bo dated from the time of the formation of an English colony in Vir- ginia, about the year 1606. Other English colonies were subsequently formed ; and, during one hundred and fifty years, these gradually increased in strength and pros- perity, till, at length, the inhabitants threw off their de- pendance upon England, and established an independent republican government. This, after a long and expen- sive war, was acknowledged by Great Britain, in a> treaty signed at Paris on the 30th of November, 1782. The boundaries of the States were determined by this treaty ; but, some important acquisitions of territory have since been made. In April, 1803, Louisiana was B 2 ■•fl£-i.«*.i' fw I ■' I ■; !!: III! II, i» :l'li: !!■! ill'l lilt! .ijli 4 I ill 4 THE UNITED STATKfl. ceded to them by France ; and this district, in its most limited extent, includes a surface of country, which, with the exception of Russia, is equal to the whole of Europe. Florida, by its local position, is con- nected with the United States: it belonged to Spain, but, in the year 1820, it was annexed to the territories of the republic. Geographical writers have divided the United States into three regions: the lowlands or flat country; the highlands, and the mountains. Of these, the first ex- tend from the Atlantic ocean to the falls of the great rivers. I'he highlands reach from the falls to the foot of the mountains; and the mouniaitis stretch nearly tlu'ough tiic whole country, in a direction from south- west to north-cast. Their length is about 900 miles, und their breadth from 60 to 200. They may be con- sidered as separated into two distinct chains; of which the eastern chain has the name of Blue Mountains, and the western is known, at its southern extremity, by the name of Cumberland and Gauley Mountains, and afterwards by that of the Allegha7iy Mountains. 'J'he Alleghanies are about 250 miles distant from the shore of the Atlantic. Towards the north there are other eminences, called the Green Mountains and the IVhile Mountains. The loftiest summits of the whole are said to be about 7000 feet in perpendicular height jibove the level of the sea. Few- countries can boast a greater general fertility of soil than North America. The soil of the higher lands consists, for the most part, of a brown loamy earth, and a yq^lowish sandy clay. Marine shells, and other sub- stances, in a fossil state, are found at the depth of eigh- teen or twenty tcet below the surface of the ground. Some of these are of very extraordinary description. In the year 1712, several bones and teeth of a vast non- descript quadruped, were dug up at Albany in the state of Now York. By the ignorant inhabitants these were considered to be the remains of gigantic human bodies. la 1799 the bones of other individuals of this animal. Ml Si THE UNITED STATES. 6 s most which, iiole of 3 con- Spain, xitories States rv; the ,rst ex- e great ;he foot nearly 1 south- 3 miles, be con- if which mntainsy nity, by 'ns, and F. 'i'he le shore e other Ind the whole height [•tility of ?r lands pth, and her sub- lof eigh- Iground. pription. ist non- I state tse were bodies. I animal, •-r even ms and 1, with poised ; walls, to scat leman) le, and it prop, relaxed and are Intel- among m their srcourse c means that, in bserved d to be urope. fitable, ed why " they glish." in the of in- ratos. d with is, in The miles rty-six d these of 160 |r equal others [pletion arc formed in Anicricn. On any spot, (says lir,') wlicro a few settlers cluster to/jfother, attracted by ancient iieigh- bour'nood, or by the goodness of the soil, or vicinity to a liiill, or by whatever other cause, some enterprising proprietor perhaps finds, in his section, v.liat ho deems a good site for a town: he has it surveyed, and laid out in lots, which he sells, or oilers to sale by auction. When these are disj)osed of, the new town assunuN the name of its founder: a store-keeper builds a little framed store, and sends for a few cases oi' goods ; and then a tavern starts up, which becomes the rcsid(MK*e of a. doctor and a lawver, and the boarding house of tho store-keeT)er, as well as the resort of the traveller, ►•oun follow a blacksmith, and other hmulicraftsmen, in usefid suicession. A school-master, who is al>o the minister of religion, becomes an im{)(>rtant acqui.siticui to this rising connnunity. Thus th - town ])roceeds, if it {proceed at all, with aceumuhiting force, until it becomes the metropolis of the neighbourhood. Hun- dreds of these speculations iiiay have failed, but hun- dreds pvos})er; and thus trade begins and thrives, as pojndation increases around favourite spots. Tiie town l)eing established, a cluster of inhabitants, how- ever small it may he, acts as a stinudus on the culti- vation of the ni ighnourhood: redimdrmcy of sup])ly is the c;)r.sequenc(\ a'.d this demands a vent. Wati^r- milis ri'-;e on the nearest navigable streiuns, rmd tlms an .cfiectual and constant market is secured for the increasing surplus of produce. Such are the elements of that accumulating mass of commerce which may, hereafter, render this one of the most important and most powerful countries in the world. Though the Americans boast of the freedom which they personally enjoy, they, most inconsistently, allow the importation and employment of slaves; and, with such unjust detestation are these unhappy beings treat- ed, that a negro is not permitted to eat at the same table, nor even to frequent the same place of worship, as a white person. The white sei'vants, on tlie con- b3 m\ '. I 'A Hi '^1 1 10 NORTH AMERICA. trary, esteem tlu'inselves on an equality wiili their mas- ters, 'riiey stile themselves " helps," and will not suffer themselves to be called " ser\'ants." When they speak to their masters or mistresses, they either call them by their names; or they substitute the term *• boss," for that of master. All this, however, is a difference merely of words; for the Americans exhibit no greater dej^ree of feehng, nor are they at all more considerate in their conduct towards this class of society, than the inhabitants of other nations. Indeed the con- trary is very often the case. Most persons, in Ame- rica, engage their servants by the week, and no enquiry is ever made relative to character, as is customary with us. The constitution of the United States guarantees freedom of speech and liberty of the press. By law all the inhabitants are esteemed equal. I'he chief military strength of the country is in the militia; and, whenever this is embodied, every male inhabitant be- yond a certain age, is compellable either to bear arms, or to pay an equivalent to be excused from this service. Trial by jury is to be preserved inviolate. A repub- lican form of government is guaranteed to all the states, and hereditary titles and distiri-'tions are prohibited by the law. With regard to religion, it is stipulated that no law shall ever bo passed to establish any particular fornt of religion, or to prevent the free exercise of it; and, in the United States, no religious test is required as a ((ualification to any office of public trust. In commerce and navigation the progress of the States has been rapid beyond example. Besides the natural advantages of excellent harbours, extensive inland bays, and navigable rivers, the Americans assert that their trade is net fettered by monopolies, nor by exclusive privileges of any descrijition. Goods c • merchandise circulate through the wliole country free of duty ; and a full drawl)ack, or restitution of the duties of impor- tation, is granted upon articles exported to a foreign port, in the course of the year in which they have been I THE l'5J['ri:D MATIS. II be- iinportcil. Coinincrce is hero lonsidertHl a lii^ijlily liouourabli' eniploynicnt; ami, in tlie sea-port towns, all the wealthiest members of the community are mer- chants. Nearly all the materials for manufactures are produced in this country. Fuel is inexhaustible; and tlie high wages of the manufacturers, and the want of an extensive capital, alone prevent the Americans from rivalling the Knglish in tradi. Th' produce of cultiva- tion in America is of almost every variety that can be named: wheat, maize, rye, oats, barley, rice, and other grain; apples, pears, cherries, peaches, grapes, cur- rants, gooseberries, plums, and otlter fruit, and a vast variety of vegetables. Lemons, oranges, and troj)ic<'il fruits are raised in the southern Stales. Hops, Hax, and hemp are abtmdant. Tobacco is an article of ex- tensive cultivation in Virginia, Maryland, and some other districts. Cotton and sugar are staple commodi- ties in several of the states. 'I'he northern and eastern .states are well adapted for grazing, .'uul furnish a great number of valuable horses, and of cattle and sheep; and an abundance of butter and cheese. It will be possible to describe nearly all the most important places within the linuts of the United States, by reciting, in succession, the narratives of ditierent travellers through this interesting country. In so doing, however, it may perhaps be found requisite, in a few instances, to separate the |)arts of their narrations, for the purpose of more methodical illustration; but this alteration of arrangement will not often occur. FEAHON h ArcOl'NT VI ^rcoiiD IDapjtf B|ii0tru(tion» UNITED STATES CONTINUED. ii"l f ;|l Afi account of New York and its vicinity. From Sketches of America h\j Hcnrvt Bkadshaw Fkaron. Mil. Flaron was floputpd by several friends in Eni,'- lind, to visit tlie United States, for the ])iir|)ose ol* obtaining information, by vvhicb thoy shoidd regulate their conduci, in emigrating from their native country, to settle in America. He arrived in the bay of New York, about the befrinninj; of August, 1817. Here every object was ijiteresting to him. The pilot brought on board the ibip the newspapers of tlie morning. In these, many of the advertisements had, to Mr. Fearon, the character of singularity. One of them, aimouncing a play, terminated thus: " gentlemen are infcn-med that no smoking is allowed in the theatre." Several sailing boats passed, with respectable persons in them, many of whom wore enormously large straw hats, turned up behind. At one o'clock, the vessel was anchored close to the city; and a great number of persons were col- lected on the wharf to witness her arrival. Many of these belonged to the labouring class: others were of the mercantile and gcnteeler orders. Large straw hats prevailed, and trowsers were universal. The general costume of these persons was inferior to that of men in the same rank of life in England: their whole appearance was loose, slovenly, careless, and not re- markable for cleanliness. The wholesale stores, which front the river, had not the most attractive appearance imaginable. The carts were long and narrow, and eacli was drawn by one horse. The hackney-coaches were open at the sides, an arrangement well suited to this warm climate; and the charge was about one fourth higher than in London. 1 1 \ Ni:w YonK. 18 laiclu's n Kni;- >ose of emulate otmtrv, )f New lie pilot orning. I'earon, nmcing cd that sailinj^ many nod up I closo 10 col- any of ore of straw The to tliat whole lot rc- which arance and oaches itcd to t one This city, when approached from the soa, presents an appearance that is truly bcaiitiful. It stands at the ex- treme point of Manhaltan, or York island, winch is thir- teen miles long, and from one to two miles wide ; and the houses are built from shore to snore. Vessels of any burden can come close up to the town, and lie there in perl'ect safety, in a natural harbour formed by the Fast iiud IIiKlxon's rivers. New York contains 120,000 in- habitants, and is, indisputably, the most important com- mercial city in America. Tiie streets thron<^h which Mr. Fearon passed, to a boar(i:ng-housc in State-street, were narroiv and dirty. The lintleri/, however, is a delightful walk, at the edge of the bay; and several of the houses in State-strett are as largo as those in Bridge-street, Blackfriars, Lon- don. At the house in which Mr. I'earon resided, the liours of eating were, breakfast, eight o'clock; dinner half-))Ast three, tea seven, and supper ten; and the whole expence of living amounted to about eighteen dollars per week. The street population of New Y''ork has an aspect very different from that of London, or the large towns in England. Osie striking feature of it is formed by the number of blacks, many of whom are finely dressed: the females arc ludicrously so, generally in white nnis- lin, witli artificial flowers and ])ink shoes. Mr. Fearon saw very few well-dressed white ladies; but this was a time of the vear when most of thcvn were absent at the springs of Ralston and Saratoga, places of fashion- able resort, about 200 miles from New York. All the native inhabitants of this city have sallow complexions. To have colour in the cheeks is here considered a criterion by which a person is known to be an Englishman. The young men are tall, thin, and solemn: they all wear trowsers, and most of them walk about in loose great coats. There are, in New York, many hotels; some of which are on an extensive scale. The City Hotel is as large as the London Tavern. The .linini'-room and IJt FEARON s ACCOUNT OF i|i-^) li:' some of the private apartirionts seem to liaA'e been fitted lip regardless of expense. The shops, or stores, as tliey are here called, have nothing in their exterior to recommend them to notice : there is not even an at- tempt at tasteful display. In this city the linen and woollen-drapers expose great quantities of their goods, loose on boxes, in the street, without any precaution against theft. This practice, a proof of their careless- ness, is at the same time an evidence as to the political state of society which is worthy of attention. Great masses of the population cannot be unemployed, or robbery would be inevitable. There are, in New York, many excellent private dwellings, built of red painted brick, which gives them a peculiarly neat and clean appearance. In Broad- way and Wall-street, trees are planted along the side of the pavement. The City Hall is a large and elegant building, in which the courts of law are held. Most of the streets are dirty : in many of them sawyers pre- pare their wood for sale, and all are infested with pigs. On the whole, a walk through New York will disap- point an Englishman : there is an apparent careless- ness, a la/iliess, an unsocial indifference, which freezes the blood and disgusts the judgment. An evening stroll along Broadway, when the lamps are lighted, will please more than one at noonday. The shops will look rather better, but the manners of the proprietors will not greatly please an Englishman: their cold indif- ference may be mistaken, by themselves, for indepen- dence, but no person of thought and observation will ever concede to them tliat they have selected a wise ir.ode of exhibiting that dignified feeling. [There is, in New York, a seminary for educa- tion, called Columbia College' This institution was originally named "King's College," and was founded in the year 1754. Its annual revenue is about 4000 dol- lars. A botanic garden, situated about four miles from rchased '^y- igo, pui by 11 ^i< Dr. Hosadi, for 73,000 dollars, and given to the col- i NEW YORK. 1.5 lege. The faculty of medicine, belonging to this insti- tution, has been incorporated nnder the title of *' Tlie College of Physicians and Surgeons of the University of New York."] The Town Hull of this city is a noble buiUling, of white marble; and the space around it is planted and railed off. The interior appears to be well arranged. In the rooms of the mayor and corporation, are por- traits of several governors of this state, and of some distinguished officers. The state rooms and courts of justice are on the first floor. In the immediate vicinity of the hall is an extensive building, appro- priated to the "New York Institution," the "Academy of fine Arts," and the " Americaii Museum." There are also a state prison, an hospital, and many splendid churches. When a traveller surveys this city, and recollects tliat, but two centuries since, the spot on which it stands was a wilderness, he cannot but be surprised at its present comparative extent and opulence. With regard to trades in New York, Mr. Fcaron re- marks that building appeared to be carried on to a con- siderable extent, and was generally performed by con- tract. There were many timber, or lumber-yards, (as tliey arc here called,) but not on the same large and compact scale as in England. Cabinet-work was neatly executed, and at a reasonable price. Chair- making was an extensive business. Professional men, he says, literally swarm in the United States; and law- yers are as common in New York as paupers are in England. A gentleman, walking in the Broadway, seeing a friend pass, called out to him, "Doctor!" and immediately sixteen persons turned round, to answer the call. It is estimated that there are, in New York, no fewer than 1500 spirit shops, yet the Americans have not the character of being drunkards. There are several large carvers' and gilders* shops; and glass- mirrors and picture-frames are executed with taste and elegance. Plate-glass is imported from France, Hoi- 4 16 FEARCN S ACCOUNT OF land, and England. Booksellers' shops are extensive; but English novels and poetry are the primary articles of a bookseller's business. Many of the popular Eng- lish books are here reprinted, but in a smaller size, and on worse paper than the original. There are, in this city, a tew boarding-schools for ladies; but, in general, males and female."?, of all ages, arc educated at the same establishm^t. No species of correction is allowed. Children, even at home, ave perfectly independent; subordination being foreign to the comprehension of all persons in the United States. I'he reftts of houses are here extremely high. Very small lioufc'S, in situations not convenient for business, and cont.iming, in the whole, only six rooms, are wortli from £.75 to £.80 per annum ; and for similar houses, in lirst-rate situat)v:ns, the rents as high as from £.1G0 to £.200 are paid. Houses like those in Ox- ford-street and the best part of Holborn, are kt for £.500 or £.600 pounds per annum. Provisions are somewhat cheaper than in Lon- don; but most of the articles of clothing are dear, being chiefly of British manufacture. \Vitii re'_':ard to religion in the United States, there is legally the most unlimited liberty. There is no established religion ; but the professors of the presbyterian and tl.e ej)isc<)- palian, or church of England tenets, take tiie prece- dence, botli in numbers and respcctabihty. Their ministers receive each from two to eight tliousr.nd dol- lars per annum. All tlie churches are said to be v.ell iilled. The episcopalians, though tliey do not form any part of tlie state, have tlieir bishops and otlier orders, as in England. Mr. Fearon remarks, generally, respecting the United States, that every industrious man may obtain a living; but that America is not the political elysium which it Jhas been so floridly described, and v/hich the imagina- tions of many have fondly anticipated. In the courts of law iliere appears to be a perfect equality between the judge, the counsel, the jmy, tlu^ NEW YORK. 17 lipstafT, and the auditors; and Mr. Fearon was inform- ed that great corruption exists in tlie minor courts. New York is called a " free state ;" and it may per- haps be so termed theoretically, or in comparison with its southern neighbours ; but, even here, there are mul- titudes of negroes in a state of slavery, and who are bought and sold as cattle would be in England. And so degrading do the white inhabitants consider ?t, to associate with blacks, that the latter are absolutely ex- cluded from all places of public worship, which the whites attend. Even the most degraded white person will neither eat nor walk with a negro. Long Island is a part of the state of New York, one hundred and twenty miles in length, and twelve in breadth. It is chiefly occupied by farmers; and is di- vided into two counties. Lon- ' dc;ir, iard to form other Mr. Fearon made several excursions into the state of New Jersey, situated opposite to that of New York, and on the southern side of the river Hudson, The valleys abound in black oaks, ash, palms, and poplar trees. Oak and hickory-nut trees grow in situations which are over- flowed. The soil is not considered prolific. Netvark is a manufacturing town, in this province, of considerable importance, and delightfully situated. It contains many excellent houses, and a population of about eight thousand persons, including slaves. Carring<;s and chairs are here made in great numbers, chiefly for sale in the southern markets. • For thvi purpose of visiting the property of a gentle- man vho resided in the vicinity of Fishkill, a creek somewhat more than sixty miles from New York, Mr. Fearon to^'k his passage in a steam-boat. lie paid for his fare three dollars and a half, and the voyage ocei' pied somewhat more than eight hours, 'i'he vessel was of the most splendid description. It contained one hundred and sixty beds ; and the ladies had a distinct cabin. On the deck were numerous conveuiiinces, such as baggage-rooms, smoking-rooms, &'c. The general m 18 FEAUON S JOURNEY FROM occupation, during the voyage, was card-playing. In the houses of two gentlemen whom Mr. Fearon visited near Fishkill, he was much gratified by the style of living, the substantial elegance of the furniture, and the mental talents of the company. Here he found both comfort and cleanliness, requisites which are scarcely known in America. In a general summary of his opinion respecting per- sons desirous of emigrating from England to America, Mr. Fearon says, that the capitalist nmy obtain, for his money, seven per cent, with good security. The law- yer and the doctor will not succeed. An orthodox minister would do so. The proficient in the fine arts will find little encouragement. The literary man must starve. The tutor's posts are all occupied. The shop- keeper may do as well, but not better than in London, unless he be a man of superior talent, and luive a large capital : for such requisites there is a fine opening. The farmer must labour hard, and be but scantily remu- nerated. The clerk and shopman will get but little more than their board and lodging. Mechanics, whose trades are of the Jirsi necessity, will do well : but men who are not mechanics, and who understand only the cotten, linen, woollen, glass, earthenware, siik, or stock- ing manufactories, cannot obtain employment. The labouring man will do well; particularly if he have a wife and children who are capable of contributing, not merely to the consuming, but also to thie earning of the common stock. Narrative of Mr. Fkaiion's Journey from New York to Boston, On' the 8th of September this gentleman left New York for Boston. After a passage of twelve hours, the ves- sel in which he sailed arrived at New Haven, a citv in Connecticut, distant from New York, by water, about ninety miles. This place has a population of about live NEW YORK TO BOSTON. 19 ing. In 1 visited style of and the ind both scarcely ng per- Lnicrica, for his he law- rtlioilox fine arts an must le sliop* London, a large •pening, y remu- \xt little , whose nt men nly the stock- The have a ng, not of the ; Yor/i V York le vps- 'hy in about U livf thousand persons, and has the reputation of ranking among the most beautiful towns in tlic United States, [It is situated at the head of a bay, between two rivers, and contains about five hundred houses, which are chiefly built of wood, but on a regular plan : it has also several public edifices, and about four thousand inha- bitants. The harbour is spacious, well protected, and has good anchorage. There is at New Haven a col- lege, superintended by a president, a professor in divi- nity, and three tutors.] Froni this place Mr. Fearon proceeded to New Lon- don, a small town on the west side of the river Thames. Here he took a place in the coach for Providence. American stages are a species of vehicles with which none in England can be compared. They carry twelve passengers : none outside. The coachman, or driver, sits inside with the company. In length they are nearly equal to two English stages. Few of them go on springs. The sides are open • the roof being sup- ported by six small posts. The luggage is carried be- hind, and in the inside. The seats are pieces of plain board; and there are leathers which can be let down from the top, and which, though useful as a protection against wet, are of little service in cold weather. The passengers breakfasted at Nortvichy a manufac- turing and trading town, about fourteen miles from New London ; and, at six o'clock in the evening, they arrived at Neiv Providence, the capital of Rhode island, having occupied thirteen hours in traveUing only fifty miles. In the general appearance of the country, Mr. Fea- ron had been somewhat disa])pointed. All the houses within sight from the road were farm-houses. He remarks that, in Connecticut and Rhode Island, the land was stony, and the price of produce was not com- mensurate to that of labour. On entering Providence, Mr. Fearon was muc!) pleased with the beauty of the place. In appearance, it combined the attractions of Southampton and Don- caster, in England. There are, in this town, an excel- 20 fearon's JOURNEY FROM lent markct-liouse, a workhouse, four or five public schools, an university with a tolerable library, and an hospital. Several of the churches are handsome, but they, as well as many private houses, are built of wood painted white, and have green Venetian shutters. Mr. I'earon had not seen a town either in America or Europe which bore the appearance of general prosperity, equal to Providence. Ship and house-builders were fully occupied, as indeed were all classes of mechanics. The residents of this place are chiefly native Americans ; for foreign emigrants seem never to think of New England. Rent and provisions are here much lower than in New York, At Pawtucket, four miles from Providence, are thir- teen cotton manufactories ; six of which are on a large scalp. Mr. Fcaron visited three of them. I'hey had excellent machinery ; but not more than one half of this was in operation, and the persons employed in all the manufactories combined, were not equal in number to those at one of moderate size in Lancashire. 'I'he road f/om Providence to Boston is much better than that which Mr. Fearon had already passed from New London. The aspect of the country also was improved ; but there was nothing in either, as to mere ap])earance, which would be inviting to an inhabitant of England. From its irregularity, and from other circumstances, Boston is mucji more like an English town than New York. 'J'he names arc English, and the inhabitants are by no means so uniformly sallow, as they are in many other j)arts of America. This town is considered the liead quarters of Federalism in politics, and of Unita- rianism in religion. It contains many rich families. The Bostonians are also the most enlightened, and the most hospitable people whom Mr. Fearon had yet seen in America : they, however, in common with all New Englanders, have the character of being greater sharp- ers, and more generally dishonourable, than the natives of other sections of the Union. KEVr YORK TO BOSTON. it public ind an »c, but wood ;. Mr. Europe , equal - fully hanics. ricans ; if New I lower •e thir- 1 large ey had half of d in all number I better (d from so was o mere tant of tances, n New nts are manv •ed the Unita- . The J most ccn in New isharp- atives The Athceneum imblic libraty, under the management of Mr. Shaw, is a valuable estabUshment. It contained, at this tiiiae, 18,000 volumes, four thousand of which were the property of the seoretary of state. The society in Boston is considered better than that in New York. Many of tlie richer families live in great splendour, and in houses little inferior to those of Rus- sell-square, London. Distinctions here exist to an ex- tent ratlier ludicrous under a free and popular govern- ment : tliere are the first class, second class, third class, and tlie " old families." Titles, too, are diff'usely dis- tributed. Boston is not a thriving, that is, not an increasing town. It wants a fertile back country ; and it is too far removed from the western states to have much trade. On an eminence, in the Mall, (a fine public walk,) is built the State House, in which the legislature holds its meetings. The view from the top of this building is ])cculiarly fine. The islands, the shipping, the town, the hill and dale scenery, for a distance of thirty miles, present an assemblage of objects which are beautifidly })ictures(iuc. Boston was the birth-place of Dr. Frank- lin, and in this town the first dawnings of the American revolution broke forth. The heights of Dorchester and Biuikcr's Hill are in its immediate vicinity. On the 20tli of September Mr. Fearon walked to Bunkers Hill. It is of moderate heis^ht. The monu- nuMit, placed bore in commemoration of the victory ob- tained by the English over the Americans, on the 1 7th of June, 1770, is of brick and wood, and without in- '^oription. [At Cambridge, four miles from Boston, is a col- lege, called Harvard College, in honour of the Rev. John Harvard of Charleston, who left to it his library, and a considerable sum of money. This college is upon a scale so large and liberal, as to consist of seven s])acious build- ings, and to contain two hundred and fifty apartments lor officers and students. It has an excellent library of about OO WELDS VOYAGE 'II ir'l '11 1 7,000 volumes, a philosophical apparatus, and a museum of natural history. The average number of students is about two hundred and sixty. Admission into this col- lege requires a previous knowledge of mathematics, Latin, and Greek. All the students have equal rights ; and each class has peculiar instructors. Degrees are here conferred, as in the English universities ; and the pe- riod of study requisite for the degree of bachelor of arts is four years. The professorships are numerous. Harvard College furnishes instructors and teachers to the most distant parts of the union ; and, in general, for the extent of its funds, the richness of its library, the number and character of its establishments, and the means it aifords of acquiring, not only an academical, but a professional education, it is considered to be without an equal in the country. It is, however, re- marked, that this college is somewhat heretical in mat- ters of religion; as most of the theological students leave it disaffected towards the doctrine of the Trinity. From this place v e must return to New York, for the purpose of accompanying Mr. Weld on a voyage up the river Hudson to Lake Champlain. I^ljirD Bap'je: JniBftruction. ■It UNITED STATES, and PART OF CANADA. Narrative of a Voyage up the River Hudson, from New York to Lake Champlain, By Isaac Weld, Esq. Mr. Weld, having taken his passage in one of the sloops which trade on the North or Hudson's river, be- twixt New York and Albany, embarked on the second of July. Scarcely a breath of air was stirring, and the tide carried the vessel along at the rate of about two UP THE HUDSON. 23 museum idents is this col- ;8, Latin, Its; and we here the pe- helor of imerous. chers to neral, for rary, the and the Eidemical, ed to be ever, re- 1 in mat- students Trinity. ifork, for /oyage up rADA. from Netv >, Esq. le of the I river, be- le second and the ibout two miles and a half an hour. Tho prospects that were presented to Ills view, in passing up tiiis magnificent stream, were pcc\iHarly grand and beatitiful. In some places the river expands to the breadth of five or six miles, in others it narrows to that of a few hundred yards ; and, in various parts, it is interspersed with islands. Trom several points of view its course can be traced to a great distance up the Hudson, wliilst in others it is sud- denly lost to the sight, as it winds between its lofty banks. Here mountains, covered with rocks and trees, rise almost perpendicularly out of the water ; there a fine champaign country presents itself, cultivated to the very margin of the river, whilst neat farm-houses and distant towns embellish the charming landscapes. After sunset a brisk wind sprang up, which carried the vessel at the rate of six or seven miles an hour for a considerable part of the night; but for some hours it was recjuisite for her to lie at anchor, in a place where the navigation of the river was intricate. Early the next morning the voyagers found them- selves opposite to West Pointy a place rendered remark- able in the history of the American war, by the deser- tion of General Arnold, and the consequent death of the imfortunate Major Andre. The fort stands about one hundred and fifty feet above the level of the water, and on the side of a barren hill. It had, at this time, a most melancholy aspect. Near West Point the Highlands, as they are called, commence, and extend along the river, on each side, for several miles. About four o'clock in the morning of the 4th of July, the vessel reached Albany^ the place of its destina- tion, one hundred and sixty miles distant from New York. Albany is a city which, at this time, contained about eleven hundred houses ; and the number was fast increasing. In the old part of the town, the streets were very narrow, and the houses bad. The latter were all in the old Dutch taste, with the gable ends towards the street, and ornamented at the top with large iron weather-cocks ; but in that part of the ;l^ II'* i! '! i!^ I ' S4 WELDS VOYACiE town which had been kitely erected, the streets were commodious, and many of the houses were handsome. Great pains liad been taken to have the streets well paved and lighted. In sunmier time Albany ia a disa- greeable place ; for it stands in a low situation on the mar- gin of the river, which here runs very slowly, and which, towards the evening, often exhales clouds of vapour. [In 181 7, Albany is described, by Mr. Hall, to have had a gay and thriving appearance, and nothing Dutch about it, except the names of some of its inhabitants. IJcing the seat of government for New York, it has a parliament-house, dignified with the name of Capitol. This stands upon an eminence, and has a lofty columnar porch ; but, as the building is small, it seems to be all porch. There is a miserable little museum here, which contains a grouy) of waxen figures brought from France, representing the execution of Louis the Sixteenth. Albany is now a place of considerable trade ; and, if a canal be completed betwixt this town and Lake Erie, it will become a town of great importance.] I'he Ith of July, the day of Mr. Weld's arrival at Albany, was the anniversary of the declaration of Ame- rican independence. About noon a drum and tnmipet gave notice that the rejoicings would immediately com- mence; and, on walking to a hill, about a quarter of a mile from the town, Mr. Weld saw sixty men drawn up, partly militia, partly volunteers, partly infantry, partly cavalry. The last were clothed in scarlet, and were moimtcd on horses of various descriptions. About three huncired spectators attended. A few rounds from a three-pounder were fired, and some volleys of small- arms. When the firing ceased, the troops returned to the town, a narty of militia olHcers, in uniform, marching in the rear, luider the shade of umbrellas, as tlie day was excessively hot. Having reached the town, the whole body dispersed, 'i'he volunteers and militia officers afterwards dined together, and thus ended the rejoicings of the day. Mr. Weld remained in Albany for a few days, and »(•_ Vt THE HtMO«T. ts »cts were aiulsome. reets well is a (lisa- » the niar- ncl wliicl), apour. 1 have had tch about i. Being it lias a f Capitol, columnar to be all ire, which in France, Sixteentii. and, if a jake Erie, arrival at of Ame- tnuTipet tely com- irtcr of a en drawn infantry, »rlet, and About inds from of small- turned to marching tlie day own, the militia nded the [I lays, and then set off for Skenesborough, upon Lake Champlain, in a carriage hired for the purpose. In about two hours he arrived at the small village of Cohoz, close to which is a remarkable cataract in the Mohawk River. This river takes its rise to the north-east of Lake Oneida, and, .'ifter a course of one hundred and forty miles, joins the Hudson about ten miles above Albany. The Cohoz fall is about three miles from the mouth of this river, and at a place where its width is about three hundred yards : a ledge of rocks extends quite across the stream, and from the top of these the water falls about fifty feet perpendicular : the line of the fall, from one side of the river to the other, is nearly straight. The appearance of this cataract varies much, according to the quantity of water : when the river is full, the water descends in an unbroken sheet from one bank to the other ; but, at other times, the greater part of the rocks is left unco- vered. From this place Mr. Weld proceeded along the banks of the Hudson River j and, late in the evening, reached Saratoga, thirty-five miles from Albany. This place contained about forty houses ; but they were so scat- tered, that it had not the least appearance of a town. Near Saratoga, on the borders of a marsh, are several remarkable mineral springs : one of these, in the crater of a rock, of pyramidical form, and about five feet in height, is particularly curious. This rock seems to have been formed by the petrifaction of the water : and all tlie other springs arc Swuroundcd by similar petri- factions. Of the works thrown up at Saratoga, during the war, by the British and American armies, thine were now scarcely any remains. The country around was well cultivated, and most of the trenches had been levelled by tlie plough. Mr. Weld here crossed the Hudson River, and pro- ceeded, for some distance, along its eastern shore. After this the road was most wretched, particularly over a long causeway, which had been formed originally c ^ iii 11 '■ Uii WLDb JOURNEif i; for tin; transport in/4 of cannon. Tins causeway con- si.-itcd of lar;^o trct's laiil sid.- by sich*. Sonic ol'tlu'ni bein<^ decayed, great intervals were Url't, in which tlie wheels of the carria^i- were sometimes locked so last, that the liorses ahnie couhl not possibly extricate tlieni. 'J'lie woods on eacli side ol" tile road had a nuich more majestic u))pearance tiian any that Mr. Wild Iiad seen since he luid U'ft PlnhuK'lpiiia. 'i'his, Ijowiver, was owin^ more to the great lieighl than to the thickness of the trees, for he couhl not see one that appeared more than thirty inches in diameter. 'I'he trees here wen; chiefly oaks, Iiiccory, Iiemh)ck, and beech ; intermixed with which appeared great nmnin'rs of smooth-barked, or Weymouth piles. A ])rofn!iion of wihl raspberries were growing in the woods. Alter liavlng ex))erienct d almost inconceivable dilli- cnlty, in consecpience of the badness of the road; and having occuj)ied five hours in travelling only twelve miles, Mr. Wfld arrived at Skcncsboroiigli. 'J'iiis is a little town, which stands near the southern extremity of Lake Champlain. It consisted, at this time, of only twelve houses, and was dreadfully infested with mus- (piitoes, a huge kind of gnats, which abound in the swampy parts of all hot countries. Such myriads of these insects attacked Mr. Weld, the lirst niglit of his sleeping there, that, when he rofje in the morning, his face and hands were covered with large pustules, like those of a person in the small-pox. The situation of Skenesborough, on the margin of a ])iece of water which is almost stagnant, and which is shaded by thick woods, is peculiarly favourable to the increase of these insects. Shortly after their arrival in Skenesborough, Mr. Weld, and two gentlemen by whom he was accompanied, hired a ])oat of about ten tons burden, for the ])urpose of crossing Lake Chinnplain. The vessel saileil at one o'clock in the day ; but, as the channel was narrow, and the wind adverse, they were only able to })roceed about six miles before sun-set. Having brought the vessel f Ill' THE HUDSON. «7 ?way coii- (• ol'tlicni whk-U till" I'd so last, L'ute tlu'in. ucii more I had sot'ii ivas {)\vin<^ 'ss ol" the jiore than TO clii(,'Hy ixi'd with arkc'd, or nspbenic'S iblo dilH- oad; and ily twelve i Ill's is a treniity of •, of only itli mus- id in the yriads of lit of liis rninii', liis ulcs, like nation of of water [ by tliick ^ of these igh, Mr. uipanied, ' ])nr|)ose lhI at one row, and ed about he vessel to an anchor, the party landed and walked to sonio ad- jacent farm-housfs, in the hope of obtainin^f provisions; but they were not able to procure any thinir (>xci>pt milk and cheese. The next day they reached Tiam- (leroga. Here the only dwellin;^ was a tavern, a lari^e house built of stone. On entering it, the party \^'as shown into a sj)aci()U.s apartment, crowded with i)oat- men .'ind other persons, who had just arrived from St. .Foims in Canada. 'J'he man of the house was a jud^'e; a sullen, demure old (gentleman, who sate by ihe fire, with tattered clothes and dishevelled locks, reading a book, and was totally rc'gardless of every person in the house. i'he old fort and barracks of Ticonderoga, are on the top of a rising ground, just behind the tavern : they were at this time in ruins, and it is not likely that they ever will be rebuilt ; for the situation is a very insecure one, being commanded by a lofty hill, called Mount J)efiance. During tlu; great American war, the Ikitish troops obtained possession of this place, by dragging cannon and mortars up the hill, and firing down upon the fort. Mr. Weld and his friends, on leaving Ticonderoga, pursued their voyage to Crown Point. Here they landed to inspect the old fort. Nothing, however, was to be seen but a heap of ruins ; for, shortly before it was surrendered by the British troops, the powder-magazine blew up, and a grt'cit part of the works was destroyed ; and, since the final evacuation of the ))lace, the people of the neighbourhood have been continually digging in dilierent parts, in the hope ol" procuring lead and iron shot. At the south sitle only the ditches remain perfect : they are wide and deep, and are cut through immense rocks of limestone ; and, irom being overgrown, towards the ^op, with dirterent kinds of shrubs, they have a grand and picturestpic ap- pearance. \Vhile the party were here, they were agreeably sur- prised with the sight of a largo birch-canoe, upon the I.) F f 1 ., Il'> ifi ! ;i I 28 HALLS JOURNEY lake, navigated by two or three Indians, in the dresses of their nation. These made for tlic shore, and soon landed ; and, shortly afterwards, another party arrived, that had come by land. Lake Champlain is about one hundred and twenty miles in length, and is of various breadths : for the first thirty miles it is, in no place, more than two miles wide ; beyond this, for the distance of twelve miles, it is five or six miles across ; but it afterwards narrows, and again, at the end of a few miles, expands. That part called the Broad Lake, because broader than any other, is eighteen miles across. Here the lake is interspersed with a great number -of islands. The soundings of Lake Champlain are, in general, very deep ; in many places they are sixty and seventy, and in some even one hundred fathoms in depth. The scenery, along the shores of the lake, is ex- tremely grand and picturesque; particularly beyond Crown Point. Here they are beautifully ornamented with hanging woods and rocks ; and the mountains, on the western side, rise in ranges one behind another, in the most magnificent manner possible. Crossing from the head of Lake Champlain, west- ward to the river St. Lawrence, we shall describe the places adjacent to that river, and some of the north- western parts of the state of New York, in A Narrative o/'LiErTrx\NT Hall's Journct/ frojn Canada to the Cataract of Niagara. Mr. Hall had travelled from Montreal, in Canada, to Prcscott, in a stage-waggon, which carried the mail ; and he says that he can answer for its being one of the roughest conveyances on either side of the Atlantic. 'I'he face of the country is invariably flat ; and settle- ments have not, hitherto, .spread far from the banks of the tSt. iMtvn'nce, i 10 THE CATARACT OF NIAGARA. 20 Jressos of uid soon y arrived, id twenty ' the first les wide ; it is five ow's, and .'hat part ny other, erspersed idings of in many even one e, is ex- ' beyond lamented tains, on another, in, west- cribe the e nortli- f Jioin nada, to le mail ; e of the ntic. d settle- )ankR of ^ Prcscott is remarkable for nothing bu^ a square re- doubt, or fort, called Fort Wellington. T!ie accom- modations at this place were so bad that Mr. Hall, at midnight, seated himself in a light waggon, in which two gentlemen were proceeding to Brockville. These gentlemen afterwards ottered him a p;ussagt »o King- ston, in a boat belonging to tl>e British navy, which was waiting for them at Brockville. The banks of the river St. Lawrence, from the neighbourhood of Brockville, are of limestone, and from twenty to fifty feet in height. Immense masses of reddish granite are also scattered along the bed of tlie stream, and sometimes project from the shore. 'J he numerous islands which crowd the approach to Lake Ontario, have all a granite basis : they are clothed with cedar and pine-trees, and with an abundance of raspber- ry plants. The bed of the Gananoqua is also of granite. 'J'his river is rising into importance, from the circum- stance of a new settlement being formed, under the au.spices of the British government, on the waters with which it communicates. 'J'his settlement lies at the head of the lakes of the Rideau, and, in case of another American war, is meant to secure a communication betwixt Montreal and Kingston, by way of the Uttawa. The settlers are chiefly disbanded soldiers, who clear and cultivate the land, under the superintendance of officers of the quar- ter-mastcr-general's department. A canal has been cut to avoid the falls of the Rideau ; and the communi- cation, either by the Gananoqua, or Kingston, will be improved by locks. Kingston, which is within the Canadian dominions, is admirably situated for naval purposes. The basis of the soil on which this town is situated is limestone, disposed in horizoitai strata. Kingston contains some good houses and stores; a small theatre, built by the military, for private theatricals; a large wooden government house, and all the appendages of .nn extensive military and naval establishment ; with as 30 HALL S JOURNEY much society as can reasonably he expected, in a town but lately created from the *' howling desert." The adjacent country is flat, stony, and barren. Mr. Hall says that fleets of ships occasionally lie off' Kingston, several of which are as large as any on the ocean. V^essels of large dimensions were at this time building, on the spot where, a few months before, their frame- timbers had been growing. Mr. Hall left Kingston, in a packet, for the American atRiion of Sacketfs harbour. This, after Kingston, has a mean appearance: its situation is low, its harbour is small, and its fortifications are of very different con- struction, both as to form and materials, from those of the former town. The navy-yard consists merely of a narrow tongue of land, the point of which affcM-ds just space sufficient for the construction of one first-rate vessel; with room for work-shops, and stores, on the remaining part of it. One of the largest vessels in the world, was at this time on the stocks. The town consists of a long street, in the direction of the river, with a few smaller streets crossing it at right angles : it covers less ground than Kingston, and has fewer good houses; but it has an advantage which Kingston does not possess, in a broad flagged footway. Tlie distance from Sackett's harbour to fVatertown is about ten miles. This is an elegant village on the Black River. It contains about twelve hundred inhabi- tants, chiefly emigrants from New England. The houses are, for the most part, of wood, but tastefully finished ; and a few are built of bricks. At VVatertown there was a good tavern, which af- forded to Mr. Hall and his companions a luxury un- usual in America, a private sitting-room, and dinner at an hour appointed by themselves. Within a few miles of Watertown the country rises boldly, and pre- sents a refresliing contrast, of hill and valley, to the flat, lieavy woods, through which they had been labour- ing from Sackett's harbour. CJ^lica. the town at which the travellers next arrived TO Tlir * ATABACT OF NIAOAIIA. 31 111 a town rt." The Mr. Hall Kingston, he ocean. building, ir frame- American fston, has larbour is rent con- i tliose of" Tierely of fords just first-rate s, on the 'ossels in rhe town lie liver, t angles: as fewer Kingston 'ertojvn is 3 on the i\ inhabi- 1. The astefully vhich af- sury un- l dinner 1 a few and pre- , to the I labour- arrived stands on th(^ right bank of tlie River Mohawk, over which it is approaclied l)y a covered wooden bridge, of considerable length. The appearance of this town is highly prepossessing: the streets are spacious; the houses are large and well built; and the stores, the name given to shops throughout America, are as well supplied, and as handsomely fitted up, as those of New York or Philadelphia. 'J'her< are at Utica two hotels, on a large scale; «ine of which, the York House, was equal in arrange- ment and accommodation, to any hotel beyond the Atlantic: it was kept by an Englishman from Bath. The inhabitants, from three to four thousand in num- ber, maintained four churches: one episcopal, one pres- byterian, and two Welsh. This town is laid out on a very extensive scale. A small ])art of it only is yet completed; but little doubt is entertained that ten years will accomjdish the whole. Filtecni years had not passed since there was here no other trace of habitation than a solitary log-house, built for the occasional reception of merchandise, on its way down the Mohawk. The overflowing popula- tion of New England, fixing its exertions on a new and fertile soil, has, within a few years, effected this change. Independently of its soil, Utica has great advantages of situation; for it is nearly at the point of junction betwixt the waters of the lakes and of the Atlantic. Witli Utica commences a succession of flourishing villages and settlements, which renders this tract of country the astonishment of travellers. That so larfore the late win- it was embosomed in peach-orchards; but these were all felled, to aid the operations of the i^lnglish troo))s. 'f he lieights are still crowneni were From Queenston Mr. Hall proceeded to York, a town within the British territory, situated on the north- western bank of lake Ontario. The country throuj,di which he passed abounded in <"'h and manners, she has a soft- ness approaching oriental languor. She retains so much of her national dress as to identify her with her people; over whom she aflects no superiority, but with whom she seems pleased to preserve all the ties and I I I ac 1J\LL.S JOUUNFA" duties ol' relationship. She held the infant of one of her relations at the font, on the Sunday that Mr. Hall visited the church at Ancaster. The usual church and baptismal service was performed by a Dr. Aaron, an Indian, and an assistant priest; the congregation con- sisted of sixty or seventy persons, male and female. Many of the young men were dressed in the English fashion, but several of the old warriors came with their blankets, folded over them ; and, in this dress, with a step and mien of quiet energy, they forcibly reminded Mr. Hall of ancient Romans. Some of them wore large silver crosses, medais, and other trinkets, on their backs and breasts ; and a few had bandeaus, ornamented with feathers. Dr. Aaron, a grey-headed Mohawk, had touched his cheeks and forehead with a few spots of vermilion, in honour of Sunday : he wore a surplice, and preached at considerable length ; but his delivery was unimpassioned and monotonous. The Mohawk village stands on a little plain, and looks down upon tlie Grand River. The houses of the inhabitants, built of logs, rudely put together, exhibit, externally, a great appearance of neglect and want of comfort: some few are in a better condition. Tiie house belonging to Brandt's family resembled that of a petty English farmer : Dr. Aaron's was neat and clean. The doctor, who had been regularly ordained, and spoke very good English, told Mr. Hall that the village had been much injured by the wars, which had hnpcded its improvements, and had dispersed the inhabitants over the country. Mr. Hall had little opportunity of observing the manners and character of these Indians. It may, how- ever, be conjectured that European intercourse is fast obliterating tlie characteristic features of their former social system. Their increased knowledge of European arts and enjoyments, has been probably followed by a proportionate increase af wants and desires. Their manners seemed, to Mr. Hall, remarkable for nothing so much as for that quiet self-possession, which con- of one of Mr. Hall luirch and iaron, an ation con- (1 female. p English with their 's» with a reminded em wore I on their lamented Wohavvk, ew spots surplice, dt'livcr\' ^^n, and cs of tho exhibit, want of }»e house f" a petty n. The d spoke lage had mpedt'd abitants mg the y, how- is fast former Jropean ed by a Their lothin^ ;h con- I rO THE CATAItACT OF NIAOAIlA. 37 stitutes the reverse of vulgarity. Their women, before strangers, are extremely timid: most of those who lived at a distance from the church, came mounted, with their husbands walking by their sides; a symp- tom, perhaps, that the sex is rising among them into an European equality of rights and enjoyments. The whole of the settlements are reckoned to furnish about live hundred warriors to the British government. Mr. Hall next describes the celebrated Cataract or Falh of Niagara. At the distance of about a mile from this cataract, a white cloud, hovering over the trees, indicates its situation: it is not, however, until tlio road emerges from a close country, into the space of open ground immediately in its vicinity, that white volumes of foam are seen, as if boiling up from a sul- pluu-eous gulph. Here a foot-path turns from the road, towards a wooded clift'. The rapids are beheld on the right, rushing, for the space of a mile, like a tempestuous sea. A narrow tract descends about sixty feet down the clitt', and continues across a plashy meadow, through a copse, encumbered with masses of limestone. Beyond this, Mr. Hall found himself upon what is called the Table Rock, on the west side of the upper part of the cataract, at the very point where the river precipitates itself into the abyss. The rapid mo- tion of the waters, the stunning noise, and the mount- ing cloiuls, almost persuade the startled senses, that the rock itself is tottering, and is on the point of being precipitated into the gulph, which swallows the mass of descending waters. He bent over it, to mark the clouds rolling white beneath him, as in an inverted sky, illuminated by a most brilliant rainoow; one of those leatures of softness which nature delights to pencil amid her wildest scenes, tempering her awfulness with beauty, and making even h^r terrors lovely. There is a ladder about half a mile below the Table Rock; and, by this, Mr. Hall descended the clifF, to reach the foot of the fall. There was formerly much tlitUculty in the descent, but a few years have made % C8 hall's JOURKF.Y j?ront clianQTo: tlio present w like thyt a battle, tc'inpost. ^'nt wind diflicult nnity to nts, and t. lint to pcnc- in those and tlie fven no !> point 1^ Mr. 1 ladies i] were -shoe,'"' pe has o had point- taken mated le ap- ed of there was a (lifforonce between thetn, of about fifteen ft^et, caused, probably, by the «jrreater weight of water de- sccndin*^ down one than the other. The island which divides the falls has, of late years, been frecpiently visited: nor is the visit to it an adven- ture of much hazard. At the point where the rapids eoiunience, the current separates, and is drawn, on either side, towards the centre ol' the two falls, while the centre «)f the stream, bemi^ in the straight line of the island, descends towards it, without any violent attraction; and, down this still water, American boats, well man- ned, and furnished with j)oles to secure them from the •Hciion of the two currents, have frequently dropt to the island. There is a whirlpool about halfway betwixt Niaray, and the noise of the cataract, are sometimes not observable so far as half a mile, yet, at other times, the noise has been heard at the distance of forty miles; and that he has himself seen the spray, like a lOud, at the distance of (itty-lbur miles. The river, as it ap^jroaches the falls, runs with astonishing impetuosity. Just at the precipice, down which it tum])les, it takes a considerable bend towards the right; and the line of the falls, instead ot" extending from bank to bank, in the shortest direction, runs ob- licjiiely across. Tlie whole width of the fall is esti- mat(>d to he about three (quarters of a mile, inchiding a rocky island, a quarter of a mile wide, by which the stream is div ided. This cataract is divided, by island^. 1^ 40 HALL S JOVRSEY into three distinct falls, the loftiest of which is one iiiin(Irest of the in- still rernem- r across the , for severflil ^t; and this i Gertrude, Gertrude of isquehann^, Mountains, k swamps, he Pokono iinous with ia, for its ge, at the the moun- is strewed aperture, ap. This the princi- Ileghanys, River, are md Naza- te a large ve a spa- te, for the and wo- omen are in fancy musical ^t. The line, are es, exe- ade and ;h go to ied with the necessaries of life. Their whole time is spent in labour, and in prayer; except an hour in the evening, which is allotted for a concert. Among the Moravians marriage is contracted in a singular manner. If a younj^ man has an inclination to marry, he makes ap- plication to the priest, who presents a young woman, designated by the superintendant as the next in rotation for marriage. Having left the parties together for an hour, the priest returns, and, if they consent to live tog(;tlier, they are married the next day; if otherwise, each is put at the bottom of the list, containing per- haps sixty or seventy names; and, on the part of the girl, there is no cliance of marriage, unless the same young man should again feel disposed for matrimony. Whtn united, a neat habitation, with a pleasant garden, is provided; and their children, at the age of six years, arc ])laccd in the seminary. If either of the parties die, the other returns to the apartment of the single people. In the Moravian establishment at Bethlehem, there is a tavern, with extensive and excellent accom- modations.] Madame de Stael, in describing the Moravians, says, " Their houses and streets are peculiarly neat. I'he women all dress in the same manner, conceal their hair, and surround their heads with a ribbon, the colour of which indicates whether they are single, married, or widows. The men dress in brown, somewhat like (puikers. A mercantile industry occupies nearly the whole community ; and all their labours are performed with peculiar regularity and tranquilHty." Mr. Hall attended one of the meetings which the inhabitants of Bethlehem commonly hold every evening, for tlu* joint purposes of amusement and devotion. Thr women were ranged at one end of the room, and tlie men at the other. Their bishop presided: he was an old man, dressed in the plainest manner, and possessed a countenance singularly mild and placid. He gave out a psalm, and led the choir ; and the singing wf>< alternately in German and English. 46 A DESCRIPTION OF There is another Moravian settlement about a mile and a half from Nazareth. This, though small, ex- ceeds both the others, in the calm and pensive beauty of its appearance. The houses are built of limestone: tliey are all on a similar plan, and have their window- frames, doors, and otlier wood-work, painted fawn- colour : before each house are planted weeping willows, whose luxuriant shade seems to shut out worldly gluif, and throws an air of monastic repose over the whole village. The Lehigh Mountain is the last of the Alleghany Ridges; the country is thenceforth level, fertile, and thickly inhabited, by steady Germans, who wear broaii hats, and purple breeches; and whose houses and vil- lages have the antique fashion of Flemish landsca])t'. German is so generally spoken here, that the new.s- papers and public notices are all printed in that lan- guage. \ The approach to Philadelphia is announced by a good turnpike road. German 7 own is a large subuih to the city, and the traveller here feels himself witliin the precincts of a popidous and long-established capital. A Description of Philadelphia. The first impressions, on entering this city, are de- cidedly favourable. It possesses a character essentially different from that of New York. It has not so mucli business, nor so much animation; but there is, in Philadelphia, a freedom from mere display ; an evidence of solidity, of which its more commercial pval is nearly destitute. • AH the streets are spacious; the names of many ol' them, as Sassafras, Chesnut, and Locust, record their sylvan origin : rows of Lombardy poplars arc planted in them. The private houses are characterized by vh- gant neatness; the steps and window-sills of many oi" them are of grey marble, and they have large luats f about a mile gh small, ex- )ensive beauty of limestone: their window- Kiinted fawn- eping willows, worldly glare, rer the wholt he Alleghany 1, fertile, and lo wear broad )uses and vil- sh landscape, lat the news- l in that lan- lounced by a large suburb imself witliiii ig-establishud city, are de- ter essentially s not so mucii there is, in ; an evidence ival is nearly ^ of many ol' , record their J are planted ;rized by vh- i of many of" e large mats ITORTin AMEISITA. PHILADELPniA, SECOND STREET. A ti TlTi I. A n E I. F ri ia^ itiUn Street. mp-i, IHILADELPIIIA. 47 placed l)olbro the doors. The streets are carefully ; swrpt, as \\A\ as the ro()l-j)aths, which are paved with brick. The ^hopx do not yi "Id, in display, to those of (London. i iie principal street is one hundred feet wide; and the oth(>rs vary tVom ei,Lfhty to tifty. In the foot-j)aths a ^re;it inconvenience is experienced hy .n Mr. Weld was there, its ap- >pearance, as apj)r()ached from the water, was not ;^very })repossessinji^. Nothinc^ was visible but confused vheaps of wooden store-houses, crowded upon each other, and wharfs, wliich projected a considerable way into the rivcT. The wharfs were built of wood; they jutted ont, in every dirt.tion, and were well adapted -for the accommodation of shipping; the largest mer- chant vessels being al)le to lie close alongside of them. Behind tlie wh.nt's, and parallel to the river, runs a street called IValer-slrect. 'Jiiis is the first street which the stranger in America usually enters, after Janding; and (says Mr. Weld) it will not give him a a very favourable opinion either of the neatness or com- jnodiousness of the public ways of Plnladelpliia. Such Stenches, at times, [)revail in it, owing in part to the .quantity of filth and dirt that is sutit'red to remahi on -the pavement, and in part to what is deposited in waste- Louses, of which there are several in the street, tluit it is really dreadful to pass through it. It was here, in the year 1 793, that the malignaiu yellow fever broke out, which made such terrible ravages among tlu? in- habitants; and, in the summer season, in general, this street is extremely unhealthv. Few of the public huiUlings in Piiiladelphia pretend to great architectural merit. The churches are neat, bnt plain. The Masonic Hall is an imsiglitly combi- 48 A DKSCRIPTION OF 1^ t nation of brick and marble, in the Gothic style. The Philadelphia bank is in a similar style. The United States and Pennsylvania banks are the finest edifices in the city: the first has a handsome portico, with Corinthian columns of white marble, and the latter is a miniature representation of the temple of Minerva at Athens, and is the purest specimen of architecture in the states : the whole building is of marble. The State House is a plain brick building, which was finished in 1735, at the cost of ef.6000. The most interesting recollections of America are attached to this edifice. The Congress sat in it during the greatest part of the war ; and the Declaration of Independence was read, from its steps, on the 4th of July, 1776. The Federal Convention also sat in it, in 1787. It is now occupied by the supreme and district courts be- low, and by Peale's Museum above. This museum, among other articles, contains an immense foesil^ skele* ton of the great Mastodon, or American Mammoth, which, some years ago, was publicly exhibited in Lou- don. The University of Pennsylvania was instituted seve- ral years ago, by some of the citizens of Philadelphia; among whom was Dr. Franklin, who drew up the original plan. It is governed by a provost and vice- provost. In 1811, the number of students amounted to five hundred. The lectures commence the first Monday in November, and end on the first day of March. Among others, are professors of anatomy, surgery, midwifery, chemistry, moral philosophy, mathe- matics, and natural philosophy, belles lettres, and languages. The Philadelphia prison is a more interesting objcit to humanity than the most gorgeous palaces. Its ex- terior is simple, and has rather the air of an hospital than a gaol : a single grated door separates the interior from the street. On entering the court, Mr. Hall found it full of stone-cutters, employed in sawing and preparing large blocks of stone and marble; smiths PHILADELPlilA. 49 ityle. The rhe United est edifices jrtico, with lie latter is of Minerva architecture e. ling, whicli , The most died to this the greatest idependencu July, 1776. 1787. It is courts be- is museum, fofisiV skele- Mammoth, ted in Lou- ituted seve- hiladelphia; rew up the Bt and vice- s amounted ce the first irst day of f anatomy, phy, mathe- ettres, and JS. sting object Its ex- an hospital the interior Mr. Hall sawing and )lc ; smiths forges were at work on one side, and the whole court was surround(!d by a gallery and a double tier of work- bliops, in whicli were brush-makers, tailors, shoe- makers, weavers, all at their several occupations, la- bouring, not only to defray, to the public, the expense.-* of their confinement, but to provide the moans of their own lionest subsistence for the future. It had none of tlie usual features of a prison; neither the hardened ])rofligacy which scoffs down its own sense of guilt, nor tlie hollow-eyed sorrow which wastes away in a living deatli of unavailing expiation: tliere was neither the clank of chains, nor the yell of execration ; but a hard- working body of men were seen, who, though separated by justice from society, were not supposed to have lost the distinctive attribute of human nature: they were treated as rational beings, were operated upon by rational motives; and they repaid this treatment by improved liabits, by industry, and submission. They had been proHigatc, they were now sober and decent in their behaviour; they had been idle, they were now actively and usefully employed; they had disobeyed the laws, they now submitted (armed as they were with all kinds of utensils) to 'he government of a single turn- key, and the barrier of a single grating. I'he markets of Philadelphia are well supplied ; and t1\e price of provisions is considerably lower than in London. No butchers are permitted to slaughter cat- tle within the city, nor are live cattle permitted to be driven to the city markets. The inhabitunts of this city are estimated at one hundred and twenty tliousand, and many of them live in houses wliieh would adorn any city in the world. They luuc, universally, a pallid and sallow countenance, except the younger females; and many of these, even quakers, adopt the tlisgusting practice of ornamenting their faces with rouge. In their dress, the gentlemen follow tlie fashions of Elnglaml, and the ladies those of Trance. Mr. Fearon perceived here, what, he says, pervades the whole of the new world, an affectation of splendour, 50 A Di;<.fRirTION OF i I or, what may bo calU.'d stylo, in those things that aio intondod to meet the piii)lic eye; with a lamontahio want, ov(!n of cleanliness, in such matters as are re- moved from that ordeal. 'I'o this may be added an appearance of uncomfortable extravagance, and an ignorance of that kind of order and neatness, which, in the eyes of those who have once enjoyed it, consti- tute the principal charm of domestic life. The Phila- delpliians consist of Enghsh, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and French; and of American-born citizens, descended from people of those different nations. It is a remark very generally made, not only by foreigners, but also by persons from distant parts of the United States, that they are extremely deficient in hospitality and polite- ness towards strangers. Among the uppermost cir- cles in Philadelphia, pride, haughtiness, and ostentation, are conspicuous; and, in the manners of the people in general, there "s much coldness and reserve. Philadelphia is the grand residence of the quakers in America, but their number does not now bear the same proportion to that of the otlier citizens, which it formerly did. This, however, is not occasioned by a diminution of quakers, so much as by the great influx, into the city, of persons of a different persuasion. In this city funerals are uniformly attended by large walking processions. The newspapers frequently contain advertisements, stating the deaths of in(li\ i- duals, and inviting all friends to attend the burial. The dead are seldom kept more than two days. At the time ap])ointcd, intimate friends enter the liouso; others assemble on the outside, and fall into the ]>ro- ccssion when the body is bronglit out. Witli regard to the climnlc of Philadtlpliia, it is ol)- served that the heats of summer are excessive; and tliat the cold of winter is equally extreme. During tlie few days which Mr. Weill spent at Philadelphia, in the month of Juno, 17f>5. the heat was almost intoler- able. For two or three days the thermometer stood at i)iJ", and, during these day^ no one stirred out of doors nilLADEtPHIA. 51 s that arc ainontahlc as are re- addod an , and an ss, which, it, consti- I'he Phila- Cermans, descended J a remark 5, but also ed States, and polite- irmost cir- >stentation, J people in ic quakers w hear the IS, which it oned by a •eat influx, on. tended hy Vequently of indivi- tlie burial. lays*. At tlie liousr; o the pro- ia, it is oh- ssive; nncl Durir.u' delphia, in oat int old- er stood ;>t It of doors who was not compelled to do so. Light white hats were universally worn, and the young men appeared tlressed in cotton or linen jackets and trows^-rs. The window-shutters of the houses were closed early in tlio morninors, who sit with thiir faces towards tlie horses. 'I'hi' roof is su[)ported by small props, which are placed at the corners. On each sid(> of tl»e doors, above the panncls, it is quite oj)en ; and, to ^luird ajiainst bad weather, there are ctntains, which are made to let down from the roof, and which fasten to buttons, ))laced for the ]>urp<)S(', on the outside. There is also a leutlicrn curtain, to hani^ occasionally between the driver and passengers. The lif^dit wa<»j:;ous are on the same construction, but arc calculated to acconnnodate from four to twelve peo])le. 'J'he oidy diiference between a small wai;j>on and a coachee, is, that the latter is better finished, has varnished pannels, and doors at the side. 'I'he Ibnner has no doors; but the passeni^ers scramble in, the best way they can, over the seat of the driver. These wai^- pons are universally used for staufe-carriages. 'J'he acconmiodations at the taverns, in Philadelphia, are very indifferent ; as, indeed, with very few ex- ceptions, they are throughout the country. The mode of conducting tlieni is nearly the same every where. 'J'he traveller, on his arrival, is shown into a room, which is common to every person in the house, and which is generally the one set apart for breakfast, din- ner, and Slipper. All the strangers that are in the house sit down, to these meals, promiscuously; and, excepting in the large towns, the family of the house also forms a part of the company. It is seldom that a private parlour or drawing-room can be procured at taverns, even in the towns; and it is always with re- luctance that breakfast or dinner is served up separately to any individual. If a separate bed-room can be pro- cured, more ought not to be expected ; and it is not always that even this is to be had; and persons who travel through the country must often subn)it to In- rlllLADEI.rillA. 53 is left quite ;r sits on ;• Tor the pas- the horses. 1 are placed , above the .igainst bad lade to let to buttons, here is also Detween the onstruction, ur to twelve nail \vai^i>on Snished, has The Ibrnier ? in, the best I'hese wajj^- 'S. 'hihidelpliifi, Ty lew ex- The mode very wliere. nto a room, house, and eakl'ast, din- are in the uiusly; and, of the house seldom tliat procured nt ays with ro- ip separately I can be pro- ind it is not persons who ubmit to l«' crammed into rooms where there is scarcely sullkient sjKut; to walk between the beds. '\ The Ik/anuire, on the banks of which this city is built, rises in the state of New York. At Philadelphia it is thirteen hundred and sixty yards wide, and is navi- gable for vessels of anv burden. It is frozen in thi- winter months ; a circumstauci! which materudly atlects the commercial interests of Philadelphia, and gives a f^reat advantage to New York. The tide reaches as high as the falls of Trenton, thirty-five miles above l*iiiladelphia, and one hundred and fifty-Hve miles from the sea. Six or seven steam-boats, of large size, ])ly on the Deluwart?, and form a communication with New York, by 'J'renton and Bordentt)wn; and with Baltimore, by Wilmington and Newcastle. These ves- sels are all fitted up in an elegant manner. Over the river Schuylkil, near Philadelphia, there is a singular bridge of iron wire. It is four hundred feet in length, and extends, from the window of a wire fac- tory, to a tree on the opposite shore. The wires which form the curve arc six in number; three on each side, arul each three-eighths of an inch in diameter. The floor of the bridge is elevated sixteen feet above the water; and the whole weight of the wires is about four thousand seven hundred pounds. It is possible to construct a bridge of this kind in the space of a fort- night ; and the whole expense would not exceed three hundred dollars. About thirty miles north-east of Philadelphia, and betwixt that city and New York, is Trenion, the capital ot" New Jersey. Mr. Weld visited this place in the year ITOO; and he says that it then contained only about eighty dwellings, in one long street. It had a college, which was in considerable repute. The num- ber of students was about seventy ; but, from their ap- pearance, and the course of their studies, it more cor- rectly deserved the appellation of a grammar-school, than a collegfc. The library was a miserable one ; and, for ■Bi swn ^^mm^mi^mm 54 ?EA110N*S JOURNEY FROM « the most part, contained only old theological books. There were an orrery out of repair, and a few de- tached parts of philosophical apparatus. A;: the oppo- site end of the room were two small cupboards, which were shown as the museum. These contained two small alligators, stuffed, and a few fishes, in a wretch- ed state of preservation. Not far from Trenton, and on the bank of the Dela- ware, is the residence of Joseph Buonaparte, who, since the re-establishment of the ancient families on the thrones of Europe, has retired to America. The estate on which he lives he purchased for ten thousand dol- lars ; and he is said to have expended twenty thousand more in finishing the buildings, and laying out the grounds in a splendid style. At present it has mucli the appearance of the villa of a country gentleman in England. fiW) IDap'jer 3|nj8ftruction. I- 1 UNITED STATES CONTINUED. Narrative of Mr. Fearon's Journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh. In the month of October, 1817. Mr. Fearon lefl Phila- del])hia for Pittsburgh. He passed through an exten- sive, fertile, well-cultivated, and beautiful tract of land called the Great Valleif', Farms in this district are chicHy owned by Dutch and Germans, and their descendants. They consist of from fifty to two hun- dred acres each; and are purchasable at the rate of about £.16 sterling per acre, the buildings included; and, in well-improved land, the average produce of wheat may be estimated at twenty-five bushels. At the distance of about twenty miles from Phila- delphia there is p copper and zinc mine. Iron ore nULADELrillA TO PITTSBURGH. 65 gical books, i a few de- ^c the oppo- oards, which ntained two n a wretcii- [)f the Dela- ?, who, since ilies on the The estate lousand dol- ity thousand ing out the it has much gentleman in Philadelphia 1 left Phila- h an exten- iil tract of this district s, and their two hun- the rate of s inchided; produce of els. from Phila - Iron ore abounds throughout the state of Pennsylvania; and many of the rocks are of limestone. A coarse kind of ^rey marble is found in great quantity, and is used tor steps and chimney-pieces. The towns of Lancaster^ Uarrishxirgh, and Carlisle^ throujjh which Mr. Fearon passed, arc all considerable, both in extent and population. [^Lancaster is nearly tlic lar«,'est inland town of North America. It con- tains iipwards of nine hundred houses, built chiefly of brick and stone, and, in general, two stories high. It has also six churches, a market-house, and a gaol. 'I'he streets are laid out regularly, and cross each other at right angles. Several diflferent kinds of wares are manufactured here, and chiefly by German mechanics. 'J'he rifled barrel guns made at this place are con- sidered to have great excellence. In 1787, a college was foimded at Lancaster, and named Franklin Col- lege, in honour of Dr. Franklin. The founders were on association of Germans, who were desirous of es- tablishing a seminary for the education of their sons, in their own language and habits. Hut it has not flourished; and, in 1815, the number of students did not exceed fifty.] Lancaster, Harrisburgh, and Carlisle, each contain many excellent brick buildings, and the usual erections of market-houses, gaols, and churches, all evincing an extent of national property, and an advancement to European establishments, truly extraordinary, when we recollect that this is a country which may be said to be but of yesterday. The German character is very prevalent throughout this state ; and even the original language is preserved. [At Carlisle there are many excellent shops and ware- houses. This place has a college, which was founded in 1783, by Mr. John Dickenson of Pennsylvania. The number of students is about one hundred and forty ; and there are professors of logic, metaphysics, lan- guages, natural philosophy, and chemistry.] Mr. Fearon next arrived at Chambersburgkt a town I \ \ ^6 FEARON S JOURNEY FROM which contains about two hundred and forty houses, and two or three churches. He here secured a place, in the stage, to Pittsburgh, and set off the next morn- ing at three o'clock. About eight he arrived at Lou- don, a small town at the foot of the north mountain, one of the Alleghany ridges, and at this time containing seventeen log and twenty frame or brick houses. The tavern was cheerless and dirty. On the road Mr. Fearon counted thirty regular stage- waggons, which were employed in conveying goods to and from Pittsburgh. Each of these was drawn by four horses; and the articles carried in them, were chiefly hardware, and silk, linen, cotton, and woollen goods. The waggons, in return, conveyed from Pitts- burgh farming produce, and chiefly flour. It is, how- ever, necessary to observe that this is the only trading waggon route to the whole western country ; and that there is no water-carriage through this part of Ame- rica. The road, for a considerable distance, was excellent, and was part of a new national turnpike, which had been projected to extend from the head of the river Po- towmac to Wheeling. This road, when completed, will be of great advantage to the whole western country. The stage passed over the North Mountain, whence there was a most extensive view, o£ a wide and beauti- ful valley, containing several thousand acres, whicli have not yet been cultivated. The prospect combined some grand mountain-scenery, and was the most mag- nificent that Mr. Fearon had ever beheld. The tra- vellers passed through a little town situated in the midst of this apparently trackless wild. They afterwards overtook twenty small family wag- gons, those chiefly of emigrants from one part of the state to another. These persons were travelling in company, and thus formed an unity of interest, for the purpose of securing, when necessary, an interchange «f assistance. The difficulties they experienced, in (I I 1 jrty houses, ired a place, next morn- ved at Lov- :h mountain, e containing ick houses. ^ilar stage- ng goods to i drawn by them, were md woollen from Pitts- It is, hovv- )nly trading y ; and that rt of Ame- s excellent, which had le river Po- pleted, will n country, in, whence and beauti- res, which combined most maff- The tra- :ed in the imily wag- art of the veiling in ?st, for the iterchange ienced, in rmiADELPHIA TO PITTSBURGH. 57 ivissiug through this mountainous district, were very great. Mr. Fearon and the ot1)cr stago-passengers supped and slept at a place called B/ootly Run, having, for several ujiles, proceeded over roads that were almost inipaNsablt'. Early the next morning they again set out ; u.-;:l they arrived at Bedford about nine o'clock. [This little town, like most others on the great western road, trades in all kinds of corn, flour, and provisions.] They were not, however, permitted to stop here, as the stage-proprietor had a house further on, where they break- fasted. In passing over a range of mountains called the Drt/ Jiulge, the view was peculiarly magnificent. Tlie eye, at one glance, took in a varied and most in- teresting view of mountain scenery, intermingled with wooded vales, and much fertile land. The travellers continued to overtake many waggons of emigrants from different states. About five o'cloek in the afternoon they reached the top of the Alleghany Mountains. The road had of late been so bad, that they had walked more than sixteen miles, leavhig the stage far behind. Thecharacter of the mountain inhabitants appeared to be cold, friendless, un- feeling, callous, and selfish. All the emigrants with whom Mr. Fearon conversed, complained of the enormous charges at taverns. Log-houses are the only habita- tions for many miles. These are formed of the trunks of trees, about twenty feet in length, and six inches in diameter, cut at the ends, and placed on each other. The roof is framed in a similar manner. In some houses there are windows ; in others the door performs the double office of window and entrance. The chim- ney is erected on the outside, and in a similar manner to the body of the house. The hinges of the doors are generally of wood ; and locks are not used. In some of the houses there are two apartments ; in others but one, for all the various operations of cooking, eatings and sleeping ; and even the pigs come in for their due tlmre of the log residence. About eleven o'clock ax D '3 r 58 FEARONS JOURNfY FROM niglu, the travellers 5?afely arrived at Somersci, a small town distant two hundred and thirty-seven miles from Philadelphia. In the morniniif of their third day's journey, they crossed iMurcl HUl. The veccupations. sixpence to •ofits of the )m tlie hiir]\ )ns. From nt, in sizo the cultiva- tion and condition of the land is much superior to those of the country through which the travellers had before post. PUlsbitrir is, in several points of view, a most inter- esting towns. Its situation, which is truly picturesque, is at the termination oltwo rivers, and at the commence- ment of a third river, that has a direct communication with the ocean, though at the immense distance of two thousand five hundred miles. This place possesses an exhaust less store of coal. During the great American war, Pittsburg was an importpnt military post called Du Quesne, and was re- markable for two signal defeats of the British troops. It is, at present, a place of great importance: the con- necting link between new and o/rf America; and though it is not a '' Birmingham," as the natives bombastically style it, yet it certaudy contains the seeds of numerous important and valuable manufactories. Agricultural produce finds here a ready and advanta- geous market. Farming in this neighbourhood is not, indeed, the most pn)fitable mode of employing capital ; but here, as in other parts of ihe union, it is an inde- pendent mode of life. The farmer, however, must labour hard witli his own hands. The labourers, or " helps," as they style themselves, are paid high wages, and are not to be relied on. In many instances they expect to sit down at table with their master, to live as well as he, and to be on terms of equality with every branch of the family. Mr. Fearon remained at Pittsburgh several days, during which time the rain never ceased. The smoke, also, from the different manufactories, is extreme, giving, to the town and its inhabitants, a very sombre aspect, J'he articles manufactured here are various, and chiefly of copper, iron, and glass. In one of the glass-ware- houses, Mr. Fearon siiw chandeliers and numerous other articles, of a very splendid description, in cut glass. Among the latter was a pair of decanters, cut from a London pattern, the price of which was to be ■^ ecr FEARON s JOLRNLY I'ROM eight guineas. And it is remarkable that the demand for these articles of elegant luxury lies in the western states ; the inliabitants of eastern America being still importers from the " old country." Not thirty years ago, the whole right bank of the Ohio was termed the *' Indian side." Spots in Tenessee, in Ohio and Ken- tucky, which, within the lifetime of even young men, witnessed only the arrow and the scalping knife, now present, to the traveller, articles ol' elegance, and modes of luxury, which might rival the displays of London and of Paris : within the last half century, the beasts of the forest, and men more savage than the beasts, were the only inhabitants of the whole of that immense tract, which is peculiarly denominated the western country. This tract is now partially inhabited; and promises soon to be generally so, by civilized man, possessed of the arts and pursuits of civilized life. On the whole, Pittsburgii is a very important town. When Mr. Fearon was here, it was supposed to contain about ten thousand inhabitants. The face of the country, beyond this town, is an un- interrupted level, and many parts of it are occupied b\ agriculturists. Mr. Fearon, however, was informed that there were still for sale one million of acres ot United States' land, at the rate of two dollars per acre, or one dollar and sixty-four cents for prompt pay- ment. The principal towns are situated on the banks of the river. There are no canals, nor, indeed is there much occasion for them, as the whole state abounds with rivers and creeks, which fall into the Ohio. The trees produced by the best kind of land an honey-locust, black walnut, and beech ; by land of second quality, the sugar maple tree, sycamore, or but- ter-wood, and what is called white wood, which is used for buildin-; and joiner's work ; and land of the third quality produces oak. There is but little underwood ; for the great height and the spreading tops of the trees, y revent the sun from penetrating to the ground, and nourishing inferior articles of vegetation. . HULADtLrillA TO PITTSBURGH. «1 the demand the western being still hirty years termed the ) and Ken- pung men, knife, now and modes jondon and pasts of the 5, were the nense tract, rn country. :)mises soon ssed of the rtant town. I to con ta ill is an un- occupied 1)N informed )f acres c»l per acre. ompt pay- I the banks ed is there te aboundN lie. f land an •y land of re, or but- ich is used ' the third iderwood ; ' the trees, ound, and The winters are severe, and of from three to four months continuance, with a keen and dry air, and cloudless sky. During summer excessive heat prevails, with heavy dews at night. In the spring there are cold and heavy rains. The autumns are line, and are fol- lowed by what is called •' Indian summer," which is truly delightful. Along the route that Mr. Fearon had travelled in this state, there was scarcely an elevation which could be called a hill, with exception of rising grounds on the margins of rivers. 'J'he dreary mono- tony of limited views, of such endless uniformity, pro- duces sensations of the most depressing melancholy. The atmosphere, after a hot day, causes headachs, which frcquei\tly terminate in intermittent fevers. .ludging from the beds of the rivers, and the qualify of the water, Mr. Fearon presumes that coal must be abundant. Salt is found in several situations, particu- larly r)n the Kenhaway. There is much limestone. I'he wild animals, in this part of America, are neither numerous, nor troublesome. 'i'he interior population of the United States, Mr. I'earon considers, may be divided into three classes : (irst, the " squatter," or man, who " sets himself down,'* upon land which is not his own, and for which he pays nothing ; cultivates a sufficient extent of ground to su))ply himself and his family with the necessaries of life, remains until he is dissatisHed with his choice, has realized a sufficiency to become a land-owner, or is ex- y)clled by the real proprietor. Second, the small far- mer, who has recently emigrated, and has had barely sufficient to pay the lirst instalment for his eighty or one hundred and sixty acres, of two-dollar land ; culti- v.'itcs, or, what he calls, improves, from ten to thirty acres: raises a sufficient " feed"' for his familv : is in .1 condition, which, if compelled by legislative acts, or by external force to endure, would b wretched; but, from being his own made his own choice, joined with lliat, tliough slowly, he is regularly considered truly master, and having the consciousness, advancing towards 62 JEARON S JOURNEY. \ i wealth, the breath of complaint is seldom heard to escape from his lips. Third, the wealthy, or " stronjr- haiided" farmer, who owns from five to twelvt; hun- dred acres, has from one-fourtii to one-third under cul- tivation, of a kind much superior to the former; raise!* live stock for the home, and Athmtic city markets ; sends beei", pork, cheese, lard, and butter, to New Orleans: is a man of plain, business-like sense, though not in pos- session, nor desirous, of a very cultivated intellect ; un- derstands his own interest, and that of his country ; and lives in sufiicicnt affluence, and is possessed of com- fort, according to the American acceptation of the term, but to which, an Englishman must feel inclined to take an exception. The management of farms is here full a century be- hind that in England: there being a want of improved machinery for the promotion of economy in time and labour ; and no regular attention being paid to tlie con- gidatt'd institution. Fronj Washington, Mr. Birkbeck and his family pro- ceeded still westward, and, on entering the Stale of Ohio, thev fb»uid themselves in a countrv beautiful and fer- tile, and allbrding, to a plain, industrious, and thriving population, all that natuvr has decreed i'or the comfort of man. It contains rich land, good water, wholesome air ; limestone, coal, mills, and navigation. It is also fully appropriated, and thickly settled ; and land is worth from twenty to thirty dollars ])er acre : an ad- vance of a thousand per cent, in about ten years ! A heavy fall of wet had rendered the roads muddy and unpleasant. On the 10th of June, the party ar- rived at Wheeling^ a considerable but mean-looking town, of inns and stores, on the banks of the Ohio. Here they baited their horses, and took a repast of bread and milk. At this place the Ohio is divided into two channels, of five hundred yartls each, by an island of three hundred acres. Between Wheeling and St. Clairsville, they had sundry foaming creeks to ford; and sundry log-bridges to pass, which are a sort of commutation of danger. They haw, in Penn- ict, contain- s. licli contains >• It has a Lit, from th(,' .'ring habits it to be an family pro- ale of Ohio, \\ and fcr- nd thrivini,' tlie comfort wliolesome It is also nd land is re; an ad- ars ! ads muddy party ar- an-looking the Ohio. repast of ivided into J an island lad sundry es to pass, They ha rate of IVom five to twenty dollars ])er acre. 'J'his is a hilly and romantic country ; .ind aHbrds many pleasant situations. Sandstone is common ; limestoni more rare ; but clay-slate appears to be the conniiou basis. 'i'he inhabitants arc friendly and homely, not to say coarse; but they are well informed. This day the tra- vellers passed various groups of emii^rants, proceeding' westward : one waggon, in particular, Wiis the moving: habitation of twenty souls. ZancsviUe is a thriving town, on ihe beautiful river Muskingum^ which is, at all times, navij^able downward. The country around it is liiliy and pleasant; not rich, but dry, and tolerably fertile. It abounds in coal and lime, and may, at some future period, become a grand station for manufactures. At Rushville Mr. Birkbeck, another gentleman, and three children, sat down to a breakfast, consisting ot the following articles : coffee, rolls, biscuits, dry toast. waffles, (a kind of iioft hot cake, of German extraction, covered with butter,) salted pickerell, (a fish from Lake Huron,) veal-cutlets, broiled ham, gooseberry-pie, stewed currants, preserved cranberries, butter, and cheese : anu Mr. Birkbeck, for himself and three chil- dren, and four gallons of oats, and a sufHcient quantity of hay for lour horses, was charged only six shillings aiid ninepence sterling. South-west of Zanesville, instead of steep hills of yellow clay, the country assumes a more gently undu- lating surface; but it is sufficiently varied both for lienlth and ornament, and has an absorbent, gravelly, or sandy soil, of moderate fertility. Lancaster is on the edge of a marsh, or fen, which, at PITTfeBl Ron TO TIIK ILMNOfS. «r T a8 beforo, ;. ol" vcpr( tabit heciiusc it is iruiR, of Iroiii witli sinipli be j)urc!ia- lars per acre, affords iiiaiiv n ; liim-stom the t'onmioii ^, not to sa\ day the tru- I, proceediii;: i the ruovinir sautiful riicr \e tlov\ nvvard, nt; not rich, in coal and omc a grand itlcman, and consisting ot a, dry toast, n extraction, a fish from oseberry-pic, butter, and d three chi!- ient quantity six shillings «ep hills of ently undu- ?d both for gravelly, or in, which, at present, shouhl seem to be a source of disease ; though its bad ettctts, ou the inhabitants of that town, are not by any mt^ans obvious. The three towns, Zanesviile, Lancaster, and Chilli- cothc, were founded by a sagacious man of the name of Zane, one of the earliest of the settlers. They are ad- mirably placed, geographically, b\jt with little regard to the health of tluir future inhabitants. The local ad- vantages of Zanesviile might have been e rica at all resembled this deiitjhtful spot ; but, from its low situation near the Sciota, it was unhealthy. Pike Town was laid out, and received its name, about the year 1815. When Mr. Birkbeck was here, it C(mi- tained a tjfvern, a store, and about twenty other dwel- lings. The land of which Mr. Birkbeck came in quest was, as he supposed, of inferior quality. But though he found it unfit for his purpose, ho had been repaid his trouble by the pleasure of his ride, through a tine por- tion of country. In leaving CI illicothe, to proceed to- vvards Cincinnati, he and his party travelled throuj,'li about seven miles of rich alhr ial land, and over fertile uplands. But, as they proc eded, the country became level, with a cold heavy soil, Detter adapted to grass than tillage. Much of this tract remained in an unimproved state. They had passed some hills which were covered with the grandest white oak-timber imaginable. Within view from the road there were thousands of these magnificent trees, each of which measured four- teen or fifteen feet in circumference : their straight stems rising, without a branch, to the height of seventy or eighty feet, not tapering and slender, but suit tiounted by full, luxuriant heads. For the space of a mile in breadth, a hurricane, which had traversed the entire western country iu a north-east direction, about seven years before Mr. Birkbeck was here, had o^)ened itself a passage through the forests, and had left a scene of extraordinary deso- lation. The trees lay tumbled over each other, like scattered stubble ; some torn up by the roots, others broken off at difterent heights, or splintered only, and r.heir tops bent over, and touching the ground. 'J'hciiL' hurricane tracts afford strong holes for game, and foi }xi\ auimals of savage kind, 'M M led by a road. y the wliole of tly cultivatod. with woods, seen in Anu>. but, from its Ithy. s name, about i liere, it con- y other dwil. in quest wax, ut thouf^h he L'n repaid liis jh a line por- ;o proceed to- elled throui,'li id over fertdo untry became to grass than I unimproved were covered imaginable, thousands of asured four- heir straight It of seventy sui! nounted a hurricane, country in a before Mr. ago through dinary deso- other, hke oots, others J. only, and md. Thusc ne, and rriTSBURfiH TO TIfL ILI.IN0I3. 09 foi As Mr. Birkbeck approached the Litflc Miami River, t}«o country became more broken, much more fertile, and better settled than beibre. After crossing this ra})id and char stream, he had a pU'asant ride to Leba- non, wliich is not a mountain of cedars, but a vaHey, so beautiful and fertile that, at its first opening on the view, it seemed rather a region of fancy than a real back-s«'tt lenient scene. Lcbuium is itsflf one of those wonders which are the natural growth of these back woods. In fourteen years, from two or three eahins of half-savage hunters, it has grown to be the residence of a thousand persons, with habits and looks in wo respect dirt'ering from their brethren of the east. Jielbre Mr. Hirkbt-ck and his party entered the town, they heard the su})p('r-b('lls of the taverns; and they arri\t'd just in time to take their seats at one of the t.ihlfs, together with traM^llers like tluMnschis. and s(.'V(>ral store-keepers, lawyers, and doctors; men who regularly board at taxtrns, and make up a standing company for the daily public table. Mr. Birkbeck and his family next passed through Cincinnati, [ a town which ])resints a scene of great life and activity. 'I'he market-*"Mise is an excellent building; and the market is under judicious regula- tions. Provisions are here ))lentiful and che;ip; but articles of clothing, house-rent, and (onrneynuMis wages are all very high. 'I his interesting town is situated on the banks of the Ohio, and contains from eigiit to ten thousand iidia- l)itants, including blacks, who are numerous. It is built on the same plan as Philadelphia. There is a school, in which children are educated on the I,ancas- tcrian })lan; and which, in 1S17, contained one huu- exhibits a motley assemblage of inhabitants ;l^ well as visitors. The inhabitants are Americans, French Canadians, and Negroes. The visitors im chiefly Americans from various states; and Indiar.s from various nations : Shawnees, Delawares, and Mia- mies, who live about a hundred miles northward, anil who come here to trade for skins. The Indians wuc encamped, in considerable numbers, round the town, and Wire continually riding into the place, to the sto, s and the whiskey-shops. Their horses and accouln- jnents wertf* generally mean, and their persons disa^'ne- riTTSBURGH TO THE ItLINOIS. rs [ a phial led their be- charp^e ol' a forebodings, valid passed found tht'iii .icij)atcd. )ver a plain. :he V/ahash: idth; and, in here duriii!,- ce, thirtv-six lat is, land ot or covered ; generally sun -flowers, ov,ers. Oil red, and not tm its varied Vincenno ibitants ;n Americans, visitors aiv md Indiai.s and Mia- Invard, ami ulians wuc I the town, the sto. s d accoulit- is disa;iri'j- «blc. Their faces were painted in various ways, which gave an appearance of ferocity to their countenances. One of them, a Shawnee, had his eyes, or rather his eyelids and the surroundin<^ parts, daubed with ver- milion. He thus looked hideous enough at a distance; but, on a nearer view, he had good features, and was a fine, stout, and fierce-looking man. Some of the Indians were well dressed. One young man, in par- ticular, of the Miami nation, wore a clear, light blue cotton vest, with sleeves; and had his head ornamented with black feathers. They all wear pantaloons, or rather long mocassins of buck-skin, covering the foot and leg, and reaching half way up the thigh, which is bare : a covering of cloth, a foot square, passes between the thighs, and hangs behind like an apron. Their complexion was various: some were dark, and others were not so swarthy as even Mr. Blrkbeck; but he saw none of the co))per-colour, which he liad imagined to be their dis- tinguishing characteristic. These Indians are addicted to drinking spirits, and are often intoxicated. They use much action in their discourse, and laugh im- moderately. Their hair is straight and black, ajul their eyes are dark. Many of the women are decently dressed and good-looking. Mr. Birkbeck remarks that, in Great Britain, tlie pf*ople are so circumscribed in their movements, that, with them, miles seem e((ual to tens of miles in Ame- rica. He says that, in America, travellers will start on an expedition of three thousand miles, by boats, on horse-back, ov on foot, with as little deliberation or anxiety, as an Knglishnian would set out on a journey of three hundred. At Vincennes, the foimdation had jtist been laid of a large establishment of mills to be worked by steam. W ater-mills of great jiower were building on tlu' Wa- h.ish, near Harmony; and undertakings of similar kind will, no doid)t, be called for and executed, along- E '«t-v- m WM i SI "•^ H 1; /4 BIRKBECKS EXPEDITION FROM the banks of this river, and of its various tributary streams. On entering Vincennes there is nothing which tends to make a favourable impression on a stranger; but it improves on acquaintance, for it contains agreeable people: and there is a spirit of cleanliness, and even of neatness, in the houses and manner of living. There is also a strain of politeness in the inhabitants, which marks the origin of this settlement to be French. At Princeton^ a place scarcely three years old, Mr. Birkbeck and his family went to a log-tavern, where neatness was as well observed as at many taverns in the cities of England. The people of this town belong to America in dress and manners; but they would not disgrace old England in the general decorum of their deportment. Mr. Birkbeck lamented here, as in other parts oi' America, the small account that is had of time. Sub- sistence is easily secured, and liberal pursuits are yet too rare to operate as a general stimulus to exertion : the consequence is, that life is whiled away in a pain- ful state of yawning lassitude. Twenty or thirty miles west of this place, in the Illinois territory, is a large country where settlements were beginning; and where, Mr. Birkbeek says, there was an abundant choice of unentertid lands, of a de- scription, which, if the sUitements of travellers and sur- veyors, even after great abatements, can be relied on, he imagined would satisfy his wishes. Princeton affords a very encouraging situation for a temporary abode. It stands on an elevated spot, in an uneven country, ten miles from tlie river Wabash, and two from the navigabK^ stream of the Patok ; bu'. the country is rich, and the timber is vast in bulk and luight. The small-pox is likely soon to be e-icluded from this state: for vaccination is very generally adopted, and inoculation for tlu^ sujall-pox is prohibited alto- gether; not l)y law, biir by conniion consent. If It ti m M t PITTSBURGH TO THE ILLINOIS. 75 ) tributary hich tends ^cr; but it agreeable , and even ig. There ints, which jnch. 5 old, Mr. em, where taverns in iwn belong would not n of their >r parts oi' me. Sub- lits are yet f exertion: in a pain- ice, in the etilemenls aj's, there of a de- s and sur- relied on, nation for 'd spot, in r Wabash, atok ; b»it bulk and ided from adopted, itcd abo- ut. If it should be known that an individual had undergone this operation, the inhabitants would compel him to with- draw from society. If he lived in a town, he must ab- sent himself, or he would be driven away. On the 35th of July, Mr. Birkbeck explored the country as far as Harmony and the banks of the Ohio. He lodged in a cabin, at a very new town, on the banks of the Ohio, called Mount Vernon. Here he found the people of a character which confirmed the aversion he had previously entertained to a settlement in the immediate vicinity of a large navigable river. Every hamlet was demoralized, and every plantation was liable to outrage, within a short distance of such a thoroughfare. Yet, to persons who had been long buried in deep forests, the view of that noble expanse was like the oi)ening of a bright day upon the gloom of night. To travel, day after day, among trees a hundred feet high, without a glimpse of the surrounding country, is op- pressive to a degree which those cannot conceive who have not experienced it. Mr. Birkbeck left Hzn-mony after breakfast, on the ensuing day, and, crossing the Wabash, at a ferry, he proceeded to tlie Big Prairie^ where, to his astonish- ment, he belield a fertile plain of grass and arable; and some thousand acres of land covered with corn, more luxuriant than any he had before seen. The scene reminded him of some open well-cultivated vale in Europe, surrounded by wooded uplands. But tlio illusion vanished on his arrival at the habitation of Mr. Williams, the owner of an estate, on which, at this time, there were nearly three hundred acres of beautiful corn in one field; for this man lived in a way apparent- ly as remote from comfort, as the settler of one year, who thinks only of the means of supporting existence. The inhabitants of the Prairie are healthy, and the females and children are better coniplexioned than their neighbours of the limber country. It is evident that they breathe better air ; but they are in a low state of L J? 76 BIRKBECK S EXPEDITION FROM I ii I If civilization, being about half Indian in their mode ol life. They are Imnters by profession, and would have the whole range of the forests for themselves and their c«ittle. Strangers appear, to them, invaders of their privileges ; as they have intruded on the better tv-unded and exclusive privileges of their Indian predecei;sors. After viewing several Prairies, which, with their sur- rounding woods, were so beautiful as to seem like the creation of fancy ; (gardens of delight in a dreary wil- derness;) and after losing their horses, and spending two days in recovering them, Mr. Birkbeck and his party took a hunter, as their guide, and proceeded across the little Wabash, to explore the country between tliat river and the Skillet Fork. The lonely settlers, in the districts north of Biij Prairie, are in a miserable state: their bread-corn nmst be ground thirty miles off; and it occupied three days to carry to the mill, and bring back, the small horse- load of three bushels. To struggle with privations has now become the habit of their lives, most of them having made several successive plunges into the wilder- ness. Mr. Birkbcck's journey across the little Wabash was a complete departure from all mark of civilization. Wanderinj5 without track, where even the sagacity ol the hunter-guide had nearly failed, they at length arrived at the cabin of another hunter, in which they lodged. This man, his wife, his eldest :ion, a tall, half-naked youth, just initiated in the hunter's arts ; his three daughters, growing up into great rude girjs, and a sqiudling tribe of dirty brats, of botli sixes, were of one pale Vfllovv colour, without the slightest tint ol healthful bloom. Thty wore remarkable instances ol tlie clFeet, on the complexion, produced by living ptr- pt tnally in the midst of woods. Tlu'ir *.al)in, which may serve as a specimen of tli-^se rudimcnis of houses, was formed of roimd logs, with apertures of three or four inches: there was no chim- ney, but large intervals v»ere left between the " cla[)- -i. riTTSBUK(.H TO TIIL ILLINOIS. I / nr mode oi ro\i\d have s and their irs of their ter tv-unded eceiisor.s. h their siir- em hke the dreary wil- d spending ck and his proceeded try between rth of Bitj l-corn must I three days mall horse- i privations ost of them the wildcr- Vabash was civilization. sagacity ol' igtii arrived liey lodged. half-naked his three irJs, and a IS, were of test tint ot nstances oi' living per- \vn of th'^'^e logs, with IS no chini- the " clap- boards," for the escape of the smoke. The roof, how- t ver, was a more ellectual covering, than Mr. Birkbeck -^ had generally exi)erienced, as it protected him and his parly very tolerably from a drenching night. Two bedsteads, formed of unhewn logs, and cleft boards laid across; two chairs, (one of them without a bottom,) and a low stool, were all the furniture possessed by this numerous family. A string of buflalo-hide, stretched across the hovel, was a wardrobe for their rags; and their utensils, consisting of a large iron-pot, some bas- kets, one good riHe, and two that were useless, stood about in corners; and a Bddle, which was seldom silent, except when tiie inhabitants were asleep, hung by them. 'J'hese hunters, in the back-settlements of America, are as persevering as savages, and as indolent. They cultivate indolence as a privilege: *• You English (they say) are indus'.rious, but we have freedom." And thus they exist, in yawning indifference, surrounded by nuisances and petty wants; the former of which might be removed, and the latter supplied, by the application of one tenth part of the time that is loitered away in their innumerable idle days. The Liff/e Wabash, which Mr. Birkbeck crossed in search of some Prairies, that had been described to him in glowing colours, was, at this season, a sluggish and scanty stream; but, for three months of the latter part of winter and the beginning of spring, it covers a great space of ground, by the overflow of waters col- lected ill its long course. The Slallet Fork is a river of similar character ; and the country that lies between thom nmst labour under the inconvenience of absolute seclusion, for many months every year, until bridges and ferries are established. Having made his way tlirough this wildest of wildernesses to the Skillet Fork, Mr. Birkbeck crossed that river at a shoal. The coun- try, on each side of it, is flat and swampy; so that the water, in many places, even at this season, rendered travelling disagreeable; yet here and there, at ten 78 BIRKBECK S EXPEDITION FROM i miles' (listanre, perhaps, the very solitude tempts ftersons to pitch their tents for a season. At one of these lone dwellinj?s Mr. Birkbcck found a neut, respectable looking female, spinnintr under the little piazza at one side of the cabin, which shaded her from the sun. Her husband was absent on business, which would detain him some weeks : she had no fa- uiily, and no companion except her husband's do^, which usually attended him durinf( his bear-huntin{^, in the winter. She said she was (juitc overcome with '* lone," and hoped the party would tie their horses in the wood, and sit awhile with her, duriu*^ the heat of the day. 'i'hey did so, and she rewarded them with a basin of coffee. She said her husband was kind and i^K)d, and never left her without necessity. He was a true lover of bcar-huntinj^ ; and, in the preceding win- ter, liad killed a great nvmber of bears. On the second of August the party lodged at another cabin, where similar neatness prevailed, both within and without. The woman was neat, and the children were clean in skin, and whole in their clothes. 'J'iie imm possessed goorl sense and sound notions, and was ingenious and industrious. He lived on the edge of the Seven Miles' Prairie, a spot charming to the eye, but deficient in water. Mr. Birkbeck considers Shatvttee Town as a.phaeno- menon, evincing the pertinaccous adherence of man to the spot where he has once established himself. Once a year, for many successive springs, the Ohio, in its an- nual overflowings, has carried away the fences from the cleared lands of the inhabitants, till at length they have given them up, and ceased to cultivate them. Once a year the inhabitants of Shawnee Town either make their escape to higher lands, or take refuge in the upper stories of their houses, until the waters subside, when they recover their position on this desolate sand-bank. At Shawnee Town there is an office for the south- east district of Illinois. Here Mr. Birkbeck constituted himself a land-Qwner, by paying seven hundred and PITTSBURGH TO TUP. ILLINOIS. n s ))cr8ous i found a mdcr the laded her business, id no i'ii' id's dop, inting, in •lue with horses in ? heat ol' m with a kind and \c was a ling win- t anotlicr 1 within ' children es. The and was Ige of the eye, but . phaeno- r man to r. Once in its an- from the bey have Once a ake their le upper le, when 1-bank. e south- istituted red and twenty dollars, as one-fourth part of the purchaso- inoney of fourteen hundreos's, Brown's, &c. and all are kept nearly in the same man- ner. At each house there are regular hours for break- fast, dinner, and supper : and, if a traveller arrive some- what before the time appointed for any one of these meals, it is in vain to desire a separate repast for him- self: he must patiently wait till the regulated hour , and must then sit down with such other guests as hap- pen to be in the house. The Susquehannah river is crossed, on the way to Baltimore, at a ferry five miles above its entrance into the Chesapeak. The river is here about a mile and a quarter wide, and deep enough for vessels of any bur- den. The banks are high and thickly wooded, and the scenery is grand and picturesque. A small town, called Havre de Grace, which contains about forty houses, stands on this river at the ferry. From Havre to Baltimore the country is extremely poor ; the soil is of a yellow gravel mixed with clay, and the road is execrable. BaHimore is supposed to have, at this time, contained about sixteen thousand inhabitants. Though not the cnpital of the state, it is the largest town in Maryland ; and, after Philadelphia and New York, is the most con- siderable place of trade in North America. [It is built round the head of a bay or inlet of the river Patuxent^ and about eight miles above its junction with the Che- i>" i ' '^ 84 WELD S EXCURSION FROM y; sapeak.J The plan of the town is somewhat similar to that of Philadelphia. Most of the slrccts cross each other at right angles. The main street, wiiich runs nearly east and west, is about eighty feet wide, and the others measure from forty to sixty feet. The streets are not all paved, so that, in wet weather, they are al- most impassable; the soil being a stiff yellow clay, which retains the water a long time. On the south of the town is the harbour, which aflbrds about nine feet wa- ter, and is large enoughi to contain two thousand sail of merchant-vessels. The greatest number of private hou,^c;. in Baltimore, are of brick ; T ut many, particularly in the skirts of the town, are of wood. In some of the new streets, a few appeared to be well built ; but, in general, they are small, heavy, and inconvenient. [The public buildings have very little architectural beauty. In the year 1817, Baltimore contained fifty thousand inhabitants ; and was still rapidly increasing.] Among the inhabitants are to be found English, Irish, Scotch, and French ; but the Irish appear to be most numerous. With a few exceptions, they are all engaged in trade ; and they are, for the most part, a plain people, sociable among themselves, and friendly and hospitable towards strangers. Cards and dancing are here favourite amuse- ments. During the autumn, Baltimore is unhealthy, and such persons as can afford it, retire to country-seats in the neighbourhood, some of which are delightfully situated. From Baltimore to Washington, a distance of forty miles, the country has but a poor appearance. The soil, in some parts, consists of yellow clay mixed with gravel : in other parts it is sandy. In the neighbour- hood of the creeks, and between tlie hills, there are patches of rich black earth, called bottoms, the trees upon wliich grow to a large size. nilLADELPIIIA TO WASHINGTON. 85 iiilar to ss each :h runs aiul tlio streets are al- f, which of the feet wa- mcl sail Itimore, ts of the a few re small, igs have hoiisand Among , Scotch, imerous. a trade ; sociable ! towards e amuse- ihealthy, try-seats ightfully ' of forty :*e. The sLed with ighbour- here are the trees- A description of the City of Washington. This city was laid out in the year 1 792 ; and was ex- pressly designed for the seat of government, and the me- tropolis of the United States. Accordingly, in the month of November, 1800, the congress assembled here lor the first time. It stands on a neck of land, between the Ibrks formed by the eastern and western branches of the river Potomac. This neck of land, together with an adjacent territory, ten miles square, was ceded to the American congress by the states of Maryland and Virginia. The ground on which the city has been built, was the property of private individuals, who rea- dily relinquished their claim to one half of it in favour of congress, conscious that the value of what was left to them would increase, and amply compensate them for their loss. The plan of the buildings was drawn by a Frenchman, whose name was L'Enfant ; and the ground, marked out for them, was fourteen miles in circumference. The streets run north and south, east and west; but, to prevent that sameness which would result from their all crossing each other at right angles, several avenues have been laid out, in different parts of the city, which run transversely. The streets are, in general, from ninety to a hundred feet, and the avenues one hundred and sixty feet wide. There is also an arrangement for several squares. Including the suburb of George Town, this city con- tains about twenty thousand inhabitants, who are scat- tered over a vast space, in detached masses of build- ings, which appear like petty hamlets in a popu- lous country. The intended streets are, for the most part, only distinguishable from the rugged waste, by a slight trace, like that of a newly-formed road ; or, in some instances, by rows of poplar trees, which afford neither ornament nor shade. The Capitol, and the house appropriated to the pre- I'ident of the United States, are situated on opposite mi ':¥ ^^ IT S6 A DESCRIPTION OF THE ' It w. m hills, and arc the chief public buildings in Washington. Diiriufi the late war, they were both nearly destroyed by the British forces ; but they are now rising into increased splendour. The capitol, in which are the houses of the legislature, and several public oftices, stands on a bank of the Potomac, seventy feet above the level of that river. It as yet consists of only two wingi ; but these are intended to be connected by a centre, surmounted by a dome. The president's house is at the opposite end of "Penn- sylvania Avenue," and commands a most beautiful prospect. On each side of it stands a large brick builiiing : one of which is the treasury, and the other is appropriated to the war and navy offices. These are hereafter to be connected with the palace. The post office is a large brick edifice, situated at about an equal distance from the president's house and the capitol. Under the same roof is the patent-office, and the national library, for the use of members of the congress. In 1817 there were, in Washington, many brick buildings, two and three stories high. There were also some small wooden houses ; though, accord- ing to the original plan, no houses were to be built less than three stories high, and all were to have marble steps. The river Potomac, at Washington, is navigable only for small craft ; but, besides this, there is a river, about the width of the Paddington canal, which is dignified by the name of Tiber. The ridiculous, though charac- teristic vanity displayed in changing its original appel- lation from *' Goose-creek" to that of " Tiber," has been happily exposed by the English poet Moore.^ Speaking of tliis city, he says, In fancy now, beneath the twilight gloom. Come, let me lead thee o'ev this modern Rome, "Where tribunes rule, where dusky Davi bow, And what was Goose-creek once is Tiber now» This fam'd metropolis, where fancy sees Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees. CITY OF WASHINGTOK. •r There are, at Washington, four market-days in the week, and negroes are the chief sellers of provisions; but the supplies are neither good nor various. In this c ty rents are very high ; and mechanics are fully em- ployed and well paid. Shopkeepers too are numerous; but its increase cannot be rapid, for it has no decidedly great natural advantages. It has little external com- merce, a barren soil, and a scanty population ; is en- feebled by the deadly weight of absohite slavery, and has no direct communication with the western country. With regard to the manners ox' the inhahifants, it is remarked that both sexes, vi'hether on horse- back or on foot, carry umbrellas £it all seasons : in summer, to keep oft' the sunbeams; in winter, as a shelter from the rain and snow ; and in spring and au- tumn, to intercept the dews of the evening. At dinner and at tea parties, the ladies sit together, and seldom mix with the gentlemen, whose conversation '"sually turns upon political subjects. In almost all houses toddy, or spirits and water, is offered to guests a few minutes be- . fore dinner. Boarders in boarding-houses, or in ta- verns, sometimes throw off* their coats during the heat of summer ; and, in winter, their shoes, for the purpose of warming their feet at the fire ; customs which the climate only can excuse. The barber always arrives on liorseback, to perform the operation of shaving ; and here, as in some towns of Europe, he is the organ of all the news and scandal of the place. In the vear 1817, when Mr. Fearon was in Washinsr- iiiijton, the congress was sittmg, and that gentleman several times attended the debates. The place of meeting was a temporary one: it had been designed for an hotel, and was in the immediate vicinity of the capitol. The congress assembled at eleven o'clock in the morning, and adjourned at four in the afternoon. Mr. Fearon's first visit was to the senate. This body is composed of forty members, the states having in- creased their original number of thirteen to that of twenty; and each state, regardless of its population, h. in. Ml i*f ,> H 88 A DESCttirilON OP HIE m I •it sends two. The gallery of the senate-liotise is open to :«11; and the only form observed, n that of taking oil' j the hat. >Vlien ,Mr. Fearon was at Washington, the cliuirman's scat was central, under a liandsoj.ic cano])y; and the members were seated, on ri( li scarlet cushions, some at double, and some at sin^'e desks. There were two large Ihes ; and tlie room was carpeted, as was also the galK ry. In the congress, the forms of business, with a few minor t^xcejjtioiis, are taken from those of the British parliamc^nt. There is, however, one point of variation: every s])eech is ap- parently listened to; and all the speeches, wiiother i good or bad, seem regarded with Kiual a})athy, and with a complete lifeless endurance, neither applause nor censure being allowed. The Representative Chamber was in the same build- ing, and about twice the extent. A gallery was here also open to the public of both sexes. This assembly consists of nearly two hundred members. These want, in appearance, the age, ex])erience, dignity, and re- spectability, which an Engl shman associates with the idea of legislators, and which are possessed by the superior branch of the congress. The members sat on very common chairs, and at unpainted desks, which were placed in rows. A few of the speakers command- ed attention; but others talked on as long they pleased, while the rest were occupied in writing letters or read- ing newspapers. A spitting-box was placed at the feet of each member, and, contrary to the practice of the upper house, both the members and visitors wore their hats. During the sitting of congress, the president, or ra- ther his lady, holds a drawing-room weekly. He takes by the hand all those persons who are presented to him; shaking of hands being here considered more rational and more manly than kissing them. George Town may be described as a suburb of Wash- ington. It is finely situated, on the north-east side of the Potomac river, and' is divided, from Washington, by the Kock Creek, over which are two bridges. The CITY OF WASHIKOION. 89 open to king oil lington, ndsoMc )ii rich t sini^'c oni was •ess, tlie )ns, are here is, 1 is ap- vviiotlier liy, and ipplause e build- as here ssembly ic want, and re- ^•ith the by the t)ers sat s, which umand- pleased, >r read- e feet of e upper hats. , or ra- re takes ntcd to 1 more ' Wash- side of lington, . The liouses arc cliitfly of brick, and have a neat appear- ance. Several of them were built before the streets were formed, which gave rise to an observation by a French lady, that " George Town had houses without streets; Washington, streets without houses." Alexandria, formerly called Uelliaven, is a small, but peculiarly neat town, on the western side cf the Potomac, and about six miles south of Washington. Its streets, like those of Philadelphia, run in straight lines, and intersect each other at right angles. The houses are of neat construction. The jmblic build- ings are an episcopal church, an academy, a court- house, a bank, and gaol. This place carries on a con- siderable trade; and the warehouses and wharfs are verv commodious. The distance from Alexandria to (korge Town is about ten miles; and there is a daily conuuunication between the two places, by means of a packet-boat. Nine miles below Alexandria, and also on the bank of the Potomac, stands Mount Vcrnoji, formerly the country-seat of general Washington. The house is of \tood, but cut and painted so as to resemble stone. It has a lawn in front; and, when Mr. Weld was here, tlie garden had the appearance of a nursery-ground. Narrative of Mr. Weld's Journey from Washington to Richmond in Virginia. In proceeding from Washington southward, Mr. Weld passed through a part of the coimtry which was flat, sandy, and had a most dreary aspect. For many successive miles nothing was to be seen but extensive plains, that had been worn out by the culture of to- bacco, and were overgrown with yellow sedge, and interspersed with groves of pine and cedar-trees, the dark green colour of which formed a singular con- trast with the yellow of the sedge. In the midst of these plains there were, however, the remains of seve- ral good houses, which showed that the country had once been in a flourishing state. 11 ¥■ I in s:« i '^M.^ 00 WKLDS JOrRVKY FROM '! h in;, »i i Mr. Weld crossrd the F*otomac at a place calUrl Hoe's Ferry. 'I'he ferry-man told him that, in the river, wuh a bank of oysters, and that, if he wished if, the men should take up some. 'J'he sinpularity of oh. taiiiing oysters from fresh water induced Mr. Weld to stop at the bank ; and the men, in a lew minutes, col- lected as many as would have filled a bushel. Tlic oysters were extremely good when cooked, but were disajrreeable when eaten raw. The Potomac, as well as the other rivers in Virginia, abo\mds with excellent fish of various kinds. At the ferry it is about three miles wide. Mr. Weld prevailed with the ferry-man to take him about ten miles down the river, and land him on tli( Virginian shore, in a part of the country which aj)pear- ed to be a perfect wilderness. No traces of a road or path-way were visible on the loose white sand; and the cedar and pine-trees grew so closely together, on all sides, that it wps scarcely possible to see further forward, in any direction, than a hundred yards. Taking a course, as nearly as he could guess, in a direct line from the river, at the end of about an hour, he f(mnd a narrow road, which led to alarge and an- cient J)rick house. The master of it was from home, and Mr. Weld was obliged to proceed onward, several miles further, to a wretched hovel which had the name of a tavern. On the ensuing morning he proceeded to the residence of a gentleman, which was between the rivers Potomac and Bappakannoc, and where he had been invited to pass a few weeks. The principal planters in Virginia possess large estates, and have, on them, nearly every thing they can want. Among their slaves are found tailors, shoe-makers, carpenters, smiths, turners, wheelwrights, weavers, and tanners. Woollen cloths and cotton goods, of several kinds, are manufactured at this pro- vince. Cotton grows here in great luxuriance: the plants, indeed, are often killed by the frost in winter, ii Fr WASIIINOION 10 KlChMOND. 0\ : Cflll«,fl in the ished if, ^ of ol). Weld to fes, col- \. Till. lit Wt'lt; as woli xccllcnt lit throe ake him I on the a])jK'!»V- road or nd; and jtlier, on further yards. ?ss, in a \n hour, and an- m home, , several ht name ceded to A^een the i he had ss large ing they tailors, iwrights, cotton this pro- nee: the I winter, hiit they alvvoys produce abundantly the first year in whiih tht y are sown. 'ilie large estates in Vir^-jnia arc managed by stewards and overseers; and in.; work is done wholly by slaves. The cottagis of the sluvcs are usually at the distance of a few hundred yards from the dwelling- house, and give the appearance of a village, to the residence of every planter. Adjoining to these cot- tages the slaves usually liave small gardens, and yards for poultry. They have ample time to attend to their own concerns: their garilens arc generally well stocked, and their flocks of poultry numerous. Many of their little huts are comfortably furnished, and they arc themselves, in general, well clad. But Mr. Weld remarked, that this class of persons is njuch more kindly treated in Virginia, than in the other states of America. The part of Virginia in which Mr. Weld was no\T passing his time, was, in general, flat and sandy, and abounded in pine and cedar-trees : some districts, how- ever, were well cultivated, and afforded good crops of corn; but these were intermixed with extensive tracts of waste land, worn out by the culture of tobacco, and almost destitute of verdure. The common people, in the lower parts of Virginia, have very sallow complexions, owing to the burning rays of the sun in summer, and the bilious complaints to which they are subject during the fall of the year ; but those in the upper parts of the country, towards the mountains, have a healthy and comely appear- ance. After Mr. Weld had left the house of his friend, he crossed the Rappahannoc River^ to a small town called Tappahannoc, or Hob's Hole, containing about one hundred houses. The river is here about three quar- ters of a mile wide, and, though the distance from its mouth is seventy miles, sharks are very often seen. From Tappahannoc to Urbanna, another small town on the Rappahannoc, and about twenty-five d *^ >i: 1 92 WELDS JOURNEY FROM I' ^*l Mlf^: miles lower down, the country wears but d poor aspect I'he road, which is level and sandy, runs, for many successive miles, throuj^h woods. The habitations that are seen from it are but few, and these of the poorest description. The woods chiefly consist of black oak, pine, and cedar-trees, which only grow on land of the v> orst quality. Mr. Weld observed many iraces of fires in the woods. Such fires, he was informed, were frequent in the spring of the year ; and they were usually occasioned by the negligence of people who burnt the under- wood, for the purpose of clearing the lands. He was himself witness to one of them. The day had been remarkably serene, and the tmderwood had been fired in several places. During the afternoon, the weather was sultry, and, about live o'clock, the horizon, to- wards the north, became dark, and a terrible whirlwind arose. Mr. Weld was standing, with some gentlemen, on an eminence, and perceived it gradually advancing. It carried along with it a cloud of dust, dried leaves, and pieces of rotten wood; and, in many places, as it passed along, it levelled the fence-rails, and unroofed the cattle-slieds. Mr. Weld and his friends endeavour- ed, but in vain, to reach a place of shelter. In the course of two minutes the whirlwind overtook them : the shock was violent; it was hardly possible to stand, and was difficult to breathe. It passed over in about three minutes; but a stcrm, accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning, succeeded: this lasted more than half an hour. On looking round, immedi- ately after the whirlwind had passed, a prodigious colunm of fire appeared in a part of the wood where some underwood had been burning. In many places the flames rose considerably above tl:e summit of the trees, which were of large growth. It was a tremend- ous, and, at the same time, a sublime sight. The Ne- groes, on the surrounding plantatio»:s, were all assem- bled with their hoes; and guards were stationed, at every corner, to give alarm, if the fire appeared else- WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND. 05 >r aspect for many tions tiKit e poorest ack oak, (1 of die s in the tquent in casioiu'd e undcr- He was had been een fired ; weather izon, to- hiriwiiul ntlenieu, Ivancinjj-. d leaves, ices, as it unrooted Kleavour- . In the ok them : to stand, over in anied by lis lasted , imniedi- rodigious od where ny places it of the tremend- The Ne- ll assem- ioned, at ired else- alicre, lest the conflagration should become pfcncral. To one plantation a spark was carried l)y tlie wind more than luill' a mile; happily, however, a torrent of ruin, shortly aJ'terNvards, came pouring down, and cn- .ihled the people to extinguish the flames in every quarter. The country between Urbanna and Gloucester is neither so sandy nor so flat as that bordering uj)on the Riil)[)ahannoc. The trees, chiefly pines, are of large size, and afford ab\mdance of turpentine, which is ex- tracted from them, in great quantities, by the inhabi- tants. Gloucester contained, at this time, only ten or twelve houses. It is situated on a neck of land nearly oppo- site to the town of York, and on the bank of the York River, here about a mile and half wide. York consist- ed of aboui seventy houses, an episcopalian church, and a gaol. It is remarkable for having l)een the place where lord Cornwallis surrendered his army to the combined forces of the Americans and French. The banks of the river are, for the most part, high and inaccessible; and the principal part of the town is built upon them; only a few fishing-huts and store- houses standing at the bottom. Twelve miles from York is WiUiamxhurgh, formerly the seat of government in Virginia. At this time it consisted of one principal street, and two others, which ran parallel to it. At one end of the main street stands the college, and, at the other end, the old capitol or state-house, a cajjacious building of brick, which was crumbling to pieces, from neglect. 'The houses arotmd it were mostly uninhabited, and presented a melancholy appearance. The college of William and Mary, as it is still called, is at the opposite end of the main street: it is a heavy pile of building, somewhat resembling a large hrick-kiin. The students were, at this time, about tlaity in number; but, from their boyish appearance. V /J i«'V' 1,1 ii I I ^1 94, WELD S JOURNEY FROM A, >i \ the seminary ought rather to be termed a grammar- school than a college. Mr. Weld dined with the president of the college. Half a dozen, or more, of the students, the eldest about twelve years old, were at table; some without shoes and stockings, and others without coats. A couple of dishes of salted meat, and some oyster-soup, formed the whole of the repast. The town of Williamsburgh contained, at this time, about twelve hundred inhabitants ; and the society in it was thought to be more extensive, and at the same time more genteel, than in any other place of its size in America. No manufactures were carried on here, and there was scarcely any trade. From Williamsburgh to Hampton the country is flat and uninteresting. Hampton is a small town, situated at the head of a ])ay, near the mouth of James River. It contained about thirty houses and an epis- copal church ; and was a dirty, disagreeable place. From this town there is a regular ferry to Norfolk, across Hampton Roads, eighteen miles over. Norfolk stands nearly at the mouth of the eastern branch of Elizabeth River, the most southern of the rivers which fall into Chesapeak Bay. This is the largest commer- cial town in Virginia, and carries on a flourishing trade to the West Indies. Its exports consist principally of tobacco, flour, and corn, and various kinds of timber. Of the latter it derives an inexhaustible supply, from the jjreat "Dismal Swamp," which is immediately in its neighbourhood. The houses in Norfolk were about five hundred in number; but most of them were of wood, and meanly built. These had all been erected since the year 1776; when the place had been totally burnt, by order of lord Dunmore, then the British governor ot' Virginia. The losses sustained, on this occasion, weiv? estimated at three hundred thousand pounds sterling. Near the harbour the streets are narrow and irresrular WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND. 05 ammar- college. St about It shoes ouple of med the lis time, )ciety in he same its size )n here, intry is 1 town, f James an epis- ice. ^Jorfolk, Norfollc aiich of s which ommer- [g trade ncipally timber. om the { in its dred in d, and since burnt, rnor of n, were; torling. pert liar : ill the other parts of the town they are tolerably wide. None of them, however, are paved, and all are filthy. Durintj the hot months of summer, the stench that pro- ceeds from some of them is horrid. There were, at this time, two churches, one for epis- copahans, and the other for methodists ; but, in the former, service was not performed more than once in two or three weeks. Indeed, throughout all the lower parts of Virginia, that is, between the mountains and the sea, the people seemed to have scarcely any sense of religion ; and, in the country districts, all the churches were falling into decay. From Norfolk Mr. Weld went to the Dismal Swamp. This commences at the distance of nine miles from the town, extends into North Carolina, and occupies, in the ^vhole, about one hundred and fifty thousand acres. The entire tract is covered with trees, some of which are of enormous size ; and between them, the under- wood springs up so thick, that the swamp is, in many parts, absolutely impervious. It abounds also with cane-reeds, and with long rich grass, on which cattle feed with great avidity, and become fat in a short time. In the interior of the swamp, large herds of wild cattle are found ; the offspring, probably, of animals which have at diflferent times been lost, or turned out to feed. Bears, wolves, deer, and other wild indigenous animals, are also found here. As the Dismal Swamp lies so very near to Norfolk, wlurc there is a constant demand for timber, staves, and other similar articles, for exportation ; and, as the hest of these are made from trees grown upon the swamp, it of course becomes a valuable species of pro- perty. A canal, which the inhabitants of Norfolk were, at this time, cutting through it, would also tend to en- hance its value. From the Dismal Swamp to Riclimond, a distance of about one hundred and forty miles, along the south side of James Rivcr^ the country is flat and sandy, and, lor many successive miles, is covered with pine-trees. li^ t^mi f^^ ■^^^^K n« AVELDS JOURNEY ]?ROM ''^^1 lA some parts there are peach-orchards, which are very profitable. From the peaches, the inhabitants make brandy, which, when properly matured, is an excellent liquor, and much esteemed: they give it a delicious flavour by infusing dried pears in it. The accommodation at the taverns along this road, was most wretched ; nothing was to be had but rancid fish, fat salt pork, and bread made of Indian corn. Mr. Weld's horses were almost starved. Hay is scarcely ever used in this part of the country, but, in place of it, the inhabitants feed their cattle with what they call fodder, the leaves of the Indian corn-plant. Not a bit of fodder, however, was to be had on the whole road from Norfolk to Richmond, except at two places. Pelershurgh stands at the head of the navigable part of Appamatox River, and is the only place of importance between Norfolk and Richmond. The houses in Pe- terslyurgh were about three hundred in number, and built without regularity. A flourishing trade was car- ried on in this place. About two thousand four hun- dred hogsheads of tobacco were inspected annually at the warehouses ; and, at the falls of the Appamatox, near the upper end of the town, were some of the best flour-mills in Virginia. liichtnond, the capital of Virginia, is situated imme- diately below the Falls of James River, which is here about four hundred yards wide, and was at this time crossed by two bridges, separated from each other by an island. The houses in Richmond were not more than seven hundred in number, yet they extended nearly a mile and a half along the banks of the river. The lower part of the town is built close to the vvntcr; and opposite to it, lies the shipping. It is connected with the upper town by a long street, which runs pa- rallel to the course of the river, and about fifty yards from the banks. The situation of the upper town is very pleasing : it is on an elevated spot, and coniniands it fine prospect of the falls of the river, and of the ad- i ! re very [ 5 make icccllent elicious is road, t rancid in corn. Hay is , but, in ith what •n-plant. I on the t at two ble part portancc s in Pe- iber, and was car- )ur liun- :\ually at jamatox, e of the 3(1 imme- 1 is here this time other by lot more extended the river, le vvntcr ; onnected runs pa- \\ yards town IS mnnands t' the ad- WASHINCTON TO RICHMOND. 97 jaccnt country. The best houses stand here, and also the capitol or State-house, which is a clumsy, ill-shaped edifice. Richmond, at this time, contained about four thousand inhabitants, one half of whom were slaves. The Falls in the river, or the Rapids, as they ought to be called, extend six miles above the city. Here the river is full of large rocks ; and the water rushes along in some places with great impetuosity. At the north side of the falls is a canal, which renders the navigation complete from Richmond to the Blue Mountains. There is, perhaps, no place in the world of equal size, in which more gambling is carried on, than in Richmond. Mr. Weld had scarcely alighted from his horse, when the landlord of the tavern at which he stoppe: iKO.M €.ifil)tl) 7Dap'0 3|nj0tructioit UNITED STATES CONTINUED. Ill 1^; Narrative of Mr» Weld's return from Richmond to Philadelphia^ through the ceidral parts of Virginia. IIavinjo continued, at Richmond somewhat more than a week, Mr. Wcl4. mounted liis horse, and, accompanied l?y his servant, proceeded towards the South-west or Green Mountains, The coun|:4:y around, Richmond is sandy ; but it is not so mvjch so, nor so flp,t, as on tlie south side of James lliver, towards the sea. When Mr. Weld was here it wore a niost pleasing aspect. The first week in May had, arrived ; the trees hud acquired a considerable })art of, their foliage ; and the air, in the woods, was perfumed wit}i the fragrant smell of numberless flowers and flow- crmg shrubs. The music of the birds also was delight- ful : the notps of the mocking-bird or Virginia nightin- gale, in particular, were extremely melodious. In this part of America there is a singular bird, called whippcr-will, or whip-pooi -will, which has obtained its najonie from the plaintive noise that it makes. This it commences every evening about dusk, and continues through the greatest part of the night. The frogs in Ai^ieric^ make a most singular, noise. Some of them absolutely whistle ; and others croak so loudly, that it is difficult, at times, to teJl whether the sound proceeds from a calf or a frog. Mr. Weld, whilst walking in the meadows, was more than once deceived by it. The largest kinds are called bull-frogs : they chiefly live in pairs, and are never fomid but where there is good wa- ter ; their bodies measure from four to seven inches, and their legs are of proportionate length. I'hesc ani- mals are extremely active, and take prodigious leaps. In one part of his journey, the road extended almost wholly through pine-forests, and was very lonely. RICHMOND TO PHILADELPHIA. 09 lond to inia. than a ipanietl wa:t or t)Ut It IS f James here it in May ble })ait erfunicd id flow- dclight- nightin- d, called lined its This it ontinues Vogs in of them that it proceeds I the It. The y live in rood wa- n inches, lesc ani- leaps. d almost lonely. Night came on before he reached the end of it; and, as commonly happens with travellers in this part of the world, he soon lost his way. A \is;ht, however, seeri tliroiigh the trees, seemed to indicate that a house was not far distant. His servant eagerly rode up to it, but tiie poor fellow's consternation was great indeed when he observed it moving from him, presently coming back, and then, with swiftness, departing into the woods. Mr. Weld was himself at a loss to account for this sin- fjnlar appearance, till, after having proceeded a little further, he observed the same sort of light in many other places ; and, dismounting from his horse to examine a bush, where one of these sparks appeared to have fallen, lie found that it proceeded from a fire-fly. In the present instance Mr. Weld was much surprised ; but, as the summer advanced, these flies appeared every night. After a light shower in the afternoon, this gen- tleman says he has seen the woods sparkling with them in every direction. The light is emitted from the tail, and the animal has the power of emitting it or not at pleasure. After wandering about till near eleven o'clock, he came at last to a house, where he obtained information respecting the road : and, about midnight, he arrived at a miserable tavern. During the next day's ride he ob- served a great number of snakes, which were now be- [jip.ninff to come forth from their holes. The South-Tvest Mmintains run nearly parallel to the Blue Ridge, and are the first that are seen in Virginia, on going up the country, from the sea-coast. They are not lofty, and ought indeed rather to be called hills than mountains. These mountains are not seen till the traveller conies within a few miles of them; and the ascent is so ifvadual, that he reaches their top almost without per- ceiving it. The soil is here a deep clay, particularly well suited to the culture of grain and clover, and it produces abundant crops. The salubrity of the climate, in this part of Virginia, ^m m .,, ,51 -■ « cm o lOO WELDS JOURNEY FROM I Ki I 'Pi is equal also to that of any part of tlie United States; and the inhabitants have, in consequence, a healtliy and ruddy appearance, totally different from that of the re- sidents in the low country. In these mountains live several gentlemen of large pro- perty, who farm their own land. Among the number was JVf r. Jefferson, the vice-president of the UnitedStates. His house was about three miles from Charlottesville, and was most singularly situated, being built on the top of a small mountain, the apex of which had been cut oft". At this time it was in an unfinished state ; biit, if car- ried on, according to a plan which had been laid down, it promised to be one of the most elegant private habi- tations in America. Several attempts have been made in this neighbourhood, to bring the manufacture of wine to perfection ; none of them, however, have succeeded to the wish of the parties concerned in it. 'I'hc country between the South-west Mountains and the Blue Ridge is very fertile, and is much more closely inhabited than that in the lower parts of Virginia. The climate is good, and the people have a healthy and ro- bust appearance. Several valuable mines of iron and copper have been discovered here. Having crossed the South-west Mountains, Mr. Weld proceeded to Lynchburgh^ a town on the south side of Fluvaima River, and one hundred and fifty miles beyond Richmond. This town contained about one hundred houses ; and a warehouse for the inspection of tobacco, where about two thousand hogsheads were annually in- spected. It had been built within the last fifteen years, and, in consequence of its advantageous situation for trade, was rapidly increasing. Between Lynchburgh and the Blue Mountains, the country is rough and hilly, and but thinly inhabited. The few inhabitants, however, who arc seen here, aro uncommonly robust and tall : it is rare io observe a man amongst them who is not six feet high. The Blue Ridge is thickly covered with large trees, to the very summit. Some of the mountains are rugged and States; thy and ■ the re- rge pro- iber was tcs. His ille, and ; top of I cut oft", t, if car- id down, tte habi- en itiade » of wine uccecded ains and •e closely lia. Tlu' and ro- iron and hlr. Weld side of beyond umdred tobacco, uially in- en years, ation for ains, the nhabited. lere, are (bserve a :h. Tlie I, to the r^!^:*si t "h,';"!^i1*?^ loie WiLD's JOURNEY FROM K'. *^ disorders here unknown ; and tlic air is so salubrious, that persons who come from tlic low country, afflicUid with those disorders, get rid of them in a short time. In the western part of the country there are several jnedicinal springs, to whicli, about the end of sumni' r, great numbers of people rtusort, as much for the sake of escaping the heat in the low country, as for drinking,' the waters. Those that are most frequented are called the Sweet Springs; but there are others in Jackson's Motintainsy a ridge that runs between the Blue Moun- tains and the Alleghany. One of these is warm, and another quite hot. There is also a sulphur spring near them, into which, if the leaves of trees fall, they become thickly incrusted with sulphur, in a very short time; and silver, if put into them, will be turned black almost immediately. Mr. Weld, now bending his course in a northerly di- rection, again crossed the Fluvanna River. About ten miles from this stream, there is, among the moun- tains, a deep cleft or chasm, about two miles long, and, in some places, three hundred feet deep. Over one part of this is a natural arch, called Rockbridge, which consists of a solid mass of stone, or of several stones so sti'ongly cemen-ed together that they appear but as one. The road extends over tliis natural bridge. On one side of it is a parapet or wall of fixed rocks, but on tlie other there is a gradual slope, to the yery brink pf the chasm. The slope is thickly covered \yith large trees, principally cedars and pines. The whole widtJi of the bridge is about eighty feet : the road runs nearly along the middle of it, and is passed daily hy waggons. At the dis,tanice of a few yards from the bridge there is a narrow path, which winds, along the sides of the fissure, and amids(t immense rocks and trees, down to this bottom of the chasm. Here the stupendous arcli appears in alj its glpfy, and seems even to touch the sjcies. The height, to the top of the parapet, is two hundred and tljirteen feet. The rocks are of lime- RICimOKD TO nilLADELPHlA. 103 lubrioiis, aftticti'd time, e several sumni'r, the sake drinkiriff ire called Jackson's e Moun- ann, and r spring fall, they ery short »e turned therly di- Aboiit lie moun- lies long, p. Over ickbridge, if several ly appear 5 natural wall ot lal slope, is thickly ad pines. hty feet : t, and is Ige there OS of the down to ous arch lf, at the bot- tom of which is heard the roaring of the waters, that arc concealed from the eye, hy the thickness of the foliage. Towards the end of this hdl, about sixty feet above the level of the water, stand a tavern and a few houses ; and from some fields in the rear of them, the passage of the river, through the mountain, is seen to {,Tcat advantage. The Potomac, on the left, winds through a fertile country, towards the mountain. On the right Hows the Shenandoah. Uniting together, they roll on, in conjunction, through the gap; then, suddenly expand- ing to the breadth of about four hundred yards, they pass on towards the sea, and are finally lost to the view, amidst surrounding hills. After crossing the Potomac, Mr. Weld passed on to Frederic, in Maryland, which has already been men- tioned, and thence to Baltimore, The country between Frederic and Baltimore is by no means so rich as that west of the Blue Ridge, but it is tolerably well culti- vated. Iron and copper are found here in many places. From Baltimore Mr. Weld returned to Philadelphia, where he arrived on the fourteenth of June, after an absence of about three months. We must now return to Pittsburgh, for the purpose of proceeding, from that place, with M. Michaux a French naturalist of considerable eminence, in a journey through Kentucky, Tenessee, North and South Carolina. f f 'y.f '-w ^^ ;;]i^ ■•''*(. .1 106 mc^^.v:^*\^ ^p^rney pi^ow Hiintf) IDap'jflf instruction. UNITED STATES CONTINUED. Narrative of a Journey from Pittsburgh to Lexington in Kentucky. From Travels in North America, by F. A. MiCIIAUX. This jrentleman, in company with a Mr. Craft, sqt out from Pittsburgh, on the 14th of July, 1802; and, two days afterwards, aryived i\i Wheeling, a small town on the bank of tlic Ohio, and about cij^hty miles distant from Pittsburgh. Wheeling had not been more than twelve y{;ars in existenee, yet it contained, at this time, about seventy houses, byiilt of wood. It is bounded by a lonw for the generally a shelter covered piece ot' placed on they em- the ensu- re stream the Ohio, icessivelv fatigued with their first day's voyage ; but not so mucli by paddling their canoe along, as by remaining con- stantly seated in one position. For, the canoe being very narrow at tht bottom, they were obliged to keep their legs extended ; as the least motion of the vessel would have exposed them to the danger of being overset. In the course, however, of a few days, they became accustomed to these inconveniences, and at- tained the art of travelling comfortably. They were three days and a half in proceeding to Marietta, about a hundred miles from Wheeling. This town is situated on the right bank of the Great Musk' inirum, and near the place of its junction with the Ohio. Although fifteen years before M. Michaux was here, it was not in existence, Marietta now contained more than two hundred houses, some of which were built of brick ; but the greatest number were of wood. Several of them were from two to three stories high, and somewhat elegantly constructed. The mountains which, from Pittsburgh, extend along the side of the river, are, at Marietta, distant from its banks, and leave a considerable space of level ground, which will faciU- tate, in every respect, the enlarging of the town. The inhabitants of Marietta were the first, in the interior of America, who entertained an idea of ex- porting, directly to the Caribbee Islands, the produce of their country. This they did in a vessel, built in their own town. The vessel was sent to Jamaica, and the success which crowned this first attempt, excited great emulation among the inhabitants of the western country. The ship-yard at Marietta is near the town, on the great Muskingum. When M. Michaux was there, the inhabitants were building three brigs, one of which was of two hundred and twenty tons burden. On the 21st of July the voyagers set out from Marietta, for Gallipoli, distant about a hundred miles. On the 23rd, at ten in the morning, they discovered Voint Pleasant, situj'ted a little above the mouth of the '^i 't?i ^' ■r ;1 108 MICIIAUXS JOURNEY FROM .ii r' I Great Kenatvai/, and on a promontory which is formed by the right bank of that river. Its situation is pecu- liarly beautiful. The Ohio, into which the Kenaway falls, is here four hundred fathoms wide, and continues of the same width for four or five miles. Its borders, sloping and elevated from twenty-five to forty feet, are, in the whole of its windings, overgrown, at their base, with willow, from fifteen to eighteen feet in height, the drooping branches and foliage of which form a pleasing contrast to the sugar-maples, red- maples, and ash-trees, which are seen immediately above, l.'he latter are overhung by palms, poplars, beeches, and magnolias, of the highest elevation ; the enormous branches of which, attracted by a more splen- did light and an easier expansion, extend towards the borders, overshauc^wing the rivejr, at the same time that they completely cover the trees that are beneath them. This natural display, which reigns upon the two banks, forms, from each side, a regular arch, the shadow of which, reflected by the stream, embellishes, in an extraordinary degree, the magnificent coup (Tceil. Galiipoli is on the right bank of the Ohio, four miles below Point Pleasant. It was, at this time, composed of about sixty log-houses, most of which, being unin- habited, were falling into ruins ; the rest were occupied by Frenchmen, two only of whom appeared to enjoy tlie smallest comfort. On tlie 25th of July, M. Michaux and his friend set out, in their canoe, for Alexandria^ about a hundred and four miles distant; and they arrived there in three days and a half. The ground designed for this town is at the mouth of the Great Scioto, and in the angle which the right bank of this river forms with the north-west border of the Ohio. Although the plan of Alexandria had long been laid out, few people had settled there: t)ie number of its edifices was not, at this time, more than twenty, and the major part of these were constructed of wood, The inhabitants are PITTSBURGH TO LEXINGTON. 109 formed s pccu- enaway intinucs )orders, ty feet, at their feet in ' which ?s, red- ediately poplars, on ; the e splen- irds the ne time beneath pon the rch, the lellishes, » deceit. ur miles )mposed ig unin- )ccupied ;o enjoy iend set lundred in three is town le angle ith the plan of pie had not, at part of •ints are subject, every autumn, to intermittent fevers, which seldom abate till the approach of winter. On the 1st of April the voyagers arrived at Lime' stone in Kentucky, fifty miles lower than Alexandria; and, at this place, their voyage on the Ohio terminated. They had floated, in their canoe, three hundred and forty miles from Whcehng; and, during the ten days which their voyage had occupied, they had been obhged, almost incessantly, to paddle their vessel along. This labour, although in itself painful to per- sons who are unaccustomed to it, was, in the present instance, still more so, on account of the intense heat which prevailed. They also suflfered much inconve- nience from thirst, not being able to procure any thing to drink, but by stopping at the plantations on the banks of the river ; for, during summer, the water of the Ohio acquires such a degree of heat, that it is not fit to be drunk till it has been kept twenty-four hours. At Limestone M. Michaux relinquished an intention which he had formed of proceeding further down the Ohio ; and here he took leave of Mr. Craft, who pro- secuted the remaining part of the voyage alone. The banks of the Ohio, though elevated from twenty to sixty feet, scarcely aftbrd any hard substances, betwixt Pittsburgh and Limestone; except large detached stones, of a greyish colour, which M. Michaux ob- served, in an extent of ten or twelve miles, below Wheeling : the remainder of the country seems wholly covered with vegetable earth. A few miles before this gentlerr.an reached Limestone, he observed a chalky bank, the thickness of which, being very considerable, left no room to doubt that it nidst be of great extent. The Ohio abounds in fish, some of which are of great size and weight. Till the years 179G and 1797, the banks of the Ohio were so little populated, that there were scarcely thirty families in the space of four hundred miles ; but, since that time, a great number of emigrants had settled here, from the mountainous parts of Pennsylvania and m I'-U ^.m 'Mm '0^ •iy-Si.- 110 MICHAUXS JOURNEY FROM ii '*<> mf- Virginia; consequently the plantations had, at this time, so much increased, that they were not further than two or three miles asunder; and, when M. Mi- chaux was on the river, he always had some of them in view. The inliabitants of the banks of the Ohio employ the greatest part of their time in stag and bear-hunting, for the sake of the skins, which are important articles of traffic. The dwellings of this people are, for the most part, in pleasant situations ; but they are only log-houses, without windows, and so small that they hold no more than two beds each. A couple of men, in less than ten days, could erect and finish one of them. No attention is here paid to any other culture than that of Indian corn. The favourable situation of the Ohio entitles this river to be considered as the centre of commercial ac- tivity, between the eastern and western states; and it is the only open communict tion with the ocean, for the exportation of provisions, from tliat part of the United States, which is comprised between the Alleghany Mountains, the lakes, and the left bank of the Missis- sippi. All these advantages, blended with the salubrity of the climate and the general beauty of the country, induced M. Michaux to imagine that, in the course of twenty years, the banks of the Oliio, from Pittsburgh to Louisville, would become the most populous and the most commercial part of the United States. Limestone consisted only of thirty or forty houses, constructed with wood. This little town had been built upwards of fifteen years. It was for some time the place where such emigrants landed as came from the northern states, by way of Pittsburgh : it was also the mart for merchan- dise, sent from Philadelphia and Baltimore to Ken- tucky. M. Michaux resolved to travel on foot, from this place to Lexington. The distance is sixty-five miles, and he peribnned the journey in two days and a half. PITTSBURGH TO lEXlKGTON. Ul at this further ^I. Mi- f them loy the unting, articles for the "c only lat they if men, one of culture les this cial ac- ; and it for the United eghany Missis- brity of ountry, )urse of tsburgh and the mestone jtructed vards of re svicli ates, by erchan- Ken- om this i miles, a hali*. In his journey he passed through Mays Lick, where there is a salt-work- The wells that supply the salt- water are about twenty feet in depth, and not; more than fifty or isixty fathoms from the River Sail Lick^ the waters of which, during the summer, are somewhat brackish. In this part of the country salt-springs are usiially found in places which are described by the name oi Licks; and where, before the arrival of Euro- peans, the bisons, elks, and stags, that existed in Ken- tucky, went, by hundreds, to lick the saline particles, with which the soil is impregnated. In the country aro\md Mays Lick the soil is dry and sandy; and the road is covered with large, flat, chalky stones, of a I luish colour within, and the edges of which are round. The only trees that M. Michaux observetl here, were white oaks and hickory ; and the stinted grow th and wretched appearance of these, clear- ly indic?ited the sterility of the soil. In the year 1796, Lexington consisted of only eighteen houses ; but it now contained more than a hundred and fifty, lialf of which were of brick. This town is situated on a delightful plain, and is watered by a small river, near which were several corn-mills. Every thing seemed to announce the comfort of its inhabitants. It is built on a regular plan. The streets nrc broad, and cross each other at right angles. The want; of pavement, however, renders it very muddy in winter. There wcre» at this time, in Lexington, two printing-ofiBces, at each of which a newspaper was pub- lished twice a^ week. Two extensive rope-walks, con- stantly in emptoy, supplied, with rigging, the ships that were built upon tli^e Ohio. Independently of other manufactories which had been established in this town, th^re were several common potteries, and one or two gimpowd«r-mill3. The sulphur for the latter was obtained from Philadelphia, ar\d the saltpetre was manufactured from substances dug out of grottos, vx caverna, that aje fouad on the decUvity of lofty hills, Ji' 4*^- i m f^\ ■iM'i >,'■'■ '■'» f V: f 113 MICHACXS JOURNEY FROM in tlie mountainous parts of the state. The soil of these is extremely rich in nitrous particles. [About fifty miles west of Lexington, on the bank of the Ohio, and near the falls of that river, is the town of Louisville. This place forms a connecting link be- tween New Orleans and the whole western parts of the United States. Mechanics can here obtain full em- ployment, and they are able to earn from forty to fifty- four shillings a week. Every article of clothing is ex- cessively expensive ; and the rents of houses are very high. This place was formerly very unhealthy, the inhabitants being subject to fevers, agues, and other complaints; but it is said to be improving in healthiness. Mr. Fearon, who visited this place in the year 1817, does not speak favourably of the character of the Kentuckians. He says they drink a great deal, swear a great deal, and gamble a great deal ; and that even their amusements are sometimes conducted with excessive barbarity. The expence of sending goods, by water, from New Orleans to Louisville, is about twenty shillings per hundred weight; and down the stream, to New Orleans, about four shillings. The boats usually make the voyage upward in about ninety days; and downward in twenty-eight days. Steam- vessels accomplish the former voyage in thirty-six, and the latter in twenty-eight days. There are in Louisville, two great hotels, one of which has, on an average, one hundred and forty, and the other eighty boarders. A person, on going to either of them, applies to the bar-keeper for admittance : and the ac- commodations are very different from those in an Eng- lish hotel. The place for washing is not, as with us, in the bed-rooms ; but in the court-yard, where there are a large cistern, several towels, and a negro in attendance. The sleeping-room usually contains from four to eight bedsteads, having mattresses and not fea- ther-beds ; sheets of calico, two blankets, and a quilt : the bedsteads have no curtains. The public rooms are, a news-room, a boot-room, (in which the bar is situated,) PITTSBURGH TO LEXINGTON. 113 and a dining-room. The fires are generally surrounded by parties of about six persons. 'J'he usual custom with Americans is to pace up and down the news-room, in a, manner similar to walking the deck of a ship at sea. Smoking segars is practised by all, and at every hour of the day. Argument or discussion, in this part of the world, is of very rare occurrence ; social intercourse seems still more unusual; conversation on general topics, or taking enlarged and enlightened views of things, rarely occurs : each man is in pursuit of his own individual interest. At half past seven, the first bell rings for the purpose of collecting all the boarders, and, at eight, the second boll rings ; breakfast is then set, tiie dining-room is unlocked, a general rush commences, and some activity, as well as dexterity, is necessary to obtain a seat at the table. The breakfast consists of a profuse supply offish, flesh, and fowl, which is consum- ed with a rapidity truly extraordinary. At half-past one, the first bell rings, announcing the approach of din- ner ; the avenues to the dining-room become thronged. At two o'clock the second bell rings, the doors are thrown open, and a repetition of the breakfast-scene succeeds. At six, tea, or what is here called supper, is announced, and partaken of in the same manner. This is the last meal, and it usually affords the same fare as breakfast. At table there is neither conversation nor drinking: the latter is effected by individuals taking their liquor at the bar, the keeper of which is in full employ from sun-rise to bed-time. A large tub of water, with a ladle, is placed at the bar ; and to this the customers go and help themselves. When spirits are called for, the decanter is handed ; the person calling for them takes what quantity he pleases, and the charge is sixpence-halfpenny. The life of boarders at an American tavern, presents a senseless and comfortless mode of killing time. Most houses of this description are thronged to excess ; and few of the persons who frequent them, appear to have any other object in vievf than spitting and smoking. ■^ if '-A m v fit : . ■■: it? 1 HM '».; W\ 114 MICHALXS JOURNEY FRO:^! In the state of Kentucky tliere are several subterrajio- ous caverns, which have attracted much attention, and which are described as among the most .xtraordinary natural curiosities in the world. They are also of con- siderable importance in a commercial view, from the quantity of nitre they afford. The great cave, near Crooked Creek, is supposed to contain a million pounds of nitre. This cave has two mouths or en- trances, about six hundred and fifty yards from cacli other, and one hundred and fifty yards from th< creek.] Xtntl) l^&f0 '^ngtvuctioiu UNITED STATES CONTINUED. ^i>l Narrative of the Jotirney of M. Michaux, from Lexing- ton to Charleston in South Carolina. On the tenth of August, M. Michaux set out from Lexington to Nasheville, in the state of Tenessee ; and, as an establishment for the purpose of naturalizing tlie vine in Kentucky, was not very far out of his road, he resolved 'o visit it. Consecpiently, about fourteen miles from Lexington, he quitted the road, turned to the left, strolled through some woods, and reached the vineyard in the evening. It was, at this time, under the superintendance of a M. Dufoux, the principal per- son of a small Swiss colony, which had settled in Ken- tucky some years before. The vines had been selected chiefly from the vicinity of New York and Philadelphia. Many of them had failed ; but those of the kinds which produce the Madeira wines, appealed to give consider- able hopes of success. The whole of the vines occu- pied a space of about six acres ; and they were planted LEXINGTON TO CHARLESTON. 115 bterraiic- tion, and aordinarv > of con- from the ave, near a million hs or en- rom cacli from tin ►. Lexiiig- out from see ; and, izing the road, lie fourteen urned to iched the le, under npal per- in Ken- selected adelphia. ds wliich consider- es occu- planted and fixed with props similar to those in the environs of Paris. From this place M. Michaux was conducted, through the woods, to a ferry over the Kentucky/ River. The borders of the river at this ferry are formed by an enormous mass of chalky stones, remarkably peaked, and about a hundred and fifty feet high. Near Harrodsburgk M. Michaux visited the planta- tion and residence of General Adair. A spacious and commodious house, a great number of black servants, equipages : every thing announced t'ie opulence of the general. Magnificent peach-orchards, and inunense fields of Indian wheat, surrounded the house. The soil was extremely fertile, as was evident from the largeness of the blades of corn, their extraordinary height, and the abundance of the crops. About forty miles beyond the general's plantation, M. Michaux passed over Mulder Hili, a steep and lofty mountain, that forms a kind of amphitheatre. From its summit the neighbouring country presents the as- pect of an immense valley, covered with forests of im- perceptible extent. As far as the eye can reach, nothing but a gloomy verdant space is seen, formed by the tops of the close-connected trees, and, through which, not even the vestige of a plantation can be discerned. The profound silence that reigns in these woods, unin- habited by savage beasts, and the security of the place, forms an ensevtble rarely to be seen in other countries. About ten miles beyond Green River commence what are called the Barrens, or Kentucky Meatiotrs. On the first day of his journey over them, M. Michaux travel- led fifteen miles ; and, on the ensuing morning, hav- ing wandered to seme distance out of the road, in search of a spring, at which to water his horse, he discovered a plantation in a low and narrow valley. The mistress of the house told him that she Imd resided tliere up- wards of three years, and that, for eighteen months, she had not seen any individual except of her own family : tliat, weary of living thus isolated, her husband had " H ii% ;i{ii ; ;I'P '■^' M ii*-^ 116 MICIIAUXS JOVRNKy FROM I >•] been more tlmn two months from home in quest of ano- ther spot, towards the moutli of the Ohio. A daugh- ter, about fourteen years of age, and two children, con- siderably younger, were all the company she had : her house was abundantly stocked with vegetables and corn. This part of the Barrens was precisely similar to that which M. Michaux had traversed the day before ; and the same kind of country extends as far as the line which separates the state of Tenessce from that of Ken- tucky. Here, to the great satisfaction of M. Michaux, he once more entered the woods. Nothing, he says, can be more tiresome than the doleful uniformity of these immense meadows, where there is no human creature to he met with ; and where, except a great number of partridges, no species of living beings are to be seen. The Barrens comprise a portion of country from sixty to seventy miles in length, by sixty miles in breadth. According to the signification of the name, M. Michaux had imagined that he should have to cross a naked space, scattered here and there with a few plants ; but he was agreeably surprised to find a beau- tiful meadow, where the grass was from two to three feet high. He here discovered a great variety of inte- resting plants. In some parts he observed several spe- cies of wild vines, and, in particular, one which is called by the inhabitants " summer grapes :" the bunches of fruit were as large, and the grapes as good in quality, as those in the vineyards round Paris. And it appeared to M. Michaux that the attempts which had been made in Kentucky, to establish the culture of the vine, would have been more successful in the Barrens, the soil of which appeared to him better adapted for this kind of culture, than that on the banks of the Kentucky. The Barrens are very thinly populated ; for, on the road where the plantations are closest together, M. Michaux counted but eighteen in a space of -.ixty or seventy miles* II LBXINOTON TO CIIARLBSTON. 117 of ano- daugh- en, con- ad : licr les and r to that •re ; and the line of Ken- lichaux, he says, trmity of human a great r beings try from miles in ^e name, to cross th a few a beau- to three of inte- eral spe- is called nches of quality, ippeared en made e, would le soil of kind of y. The he road Vlichaux Nashevillet the principal and the oldest town in this part of Tenessee, is situated on the river Cumberlandf tlie borders of which are here formed by a mass of chalky stone, upwards of sixty feet in hei<^ht. Except seven or eight houses, built of brick, the rest, to the number of about a hundred and twontv, were construct- ed of wood, and were distributed over a surface of twenty-five or thirty acres, where the rock .appeared almost naked in every part. This little town, although it had been built more than fifteen years, contained no kind of manufactory or public establishment ; but there was a printing-office, at which a newspaper was published once a week. A college had also been founded here ; but it was yet in its infancy, having not more than seven or eight students, and only one professor. The price of labour in the vicinity of Nasheville was liitfher than at Lexington. There appeared to be from fifteen to twenty shops, which were supplied from Phi~ ladelphia and Baltimore ; but they did not seem so well stocked as those of Jicxington, and the articles, though dearer, were of inferior quality. All the inhabitants of the western country, who go by the river to New Orleans, return by land and pass through Nasheville, which is the first town beyond Natchez. The interval which separates these towns is about six hundred miles, and was, at this time, entirely uninhabited. Several persons who had travelled this road, assured M. Michaux that, for a space of four or five hundred miles beyond Natchez, the country was very irregular ; that the soil was sandy, in some parts covered with pines, and not much adapted for culture ; but that, on the contrary, the borders of the rivei- Te- nessee were fertile, and superior even to the richest parts of Kentucky. On the fifth of September, M. Michaux set out from Nasheville for Knoxville. He was accompanied by a Mr. Fisk, one of the commissioners who had been ap- pointed to determine the boundaries between the states iTAM m m ^p ■ ■ MB 'if m ,:svf;?,|.6 ll» MICHAUXS JOURNEY PROM F ■! "H of Tcnessee and Kentucky. They stopped on the road, vvitli difforcnt friends of Mr. Fisk ; among others, with General Smith, one of the oldest inhabitants of tlie countiy. M. Michaux saw, en pas.mnt, General Win- chester, lie was at a stone house which was buildinir for him on the road. This mansion, the state of the country considered, bore the external marks of gran- deur : it consisted of four large rooms on the ground- floor, one story, and a garret. The workmen employed to finish the inside had come from Baltimore, a distance of near seven hundred miles. A few miles from the residence of General Winches- ter, and at a short distance from the road, is a small town which had been founded but a few years, and to which the inhabitants had given the name of Cairo, in memory of the taking of Cairo by the French. Between Nasheville and Fort Blount the plantations, though always isolated in the woods, were, nevertheless, by the side of the road, and within two or three mik's of each other : the inhabitants resided in log-houses, and most of them kept negroes, and appeared to live hap- pily and in abundance. Through the whole of this space the soil was but slightly undulated : in sonic places it was level, and in general it was excellent. Fort Blount had been constructed about eighteen years before M. Michaux was in America. It had been built for the purpose of protecting, against the attacks of the Indians, such emigrants as came, at that time, to settle in its vicinity. But peace having been concluded with the Indians, and the population having much in- creased, the fortifications now no longer existed. On the eleventh of September M. Michaux and Mr. Fisk left Fort Blount; and, at the house of Major Rus- sel, some miles distant, they were obligingly furnished with provisions for two days' journey through the terri- tory of the Cherokee!^. The country became now so mountainous, that they could not proceedmore thanforty-five miles the first day, though they travelled till midnight. They encamped LEXINGTON TO CHARLESTON. 119 near a small river, whore there was an abundance of grass; and, after havi.>j^ lij^hted a lire, they slept in tlieir riij^s, keeping wiuclj iilternately, in order to guard their horses. J)uiiM|^^ iliis day's journey they had seen no animals, exec pt ^oine floeks of wild turkeys. The second day after their departure, they met a parly of eijflu or ten Indians, who were searching" for grapes and eiunq\iapins, a small speeies of ehesnutSi superior in taste to those of Europe. As M. Miehaux andliis friend had only twenty miles to go before they reached West Point, they gave to these men the re- mainder of their provisions. With the American Indi- ans bread is a great treat ; for their utjual food consists only of venison and wild-fowl. The road, which crosses this part of the Indian terri- tory, cuts througli the mountains of Cumberland; and, in conseciuencc of the great number of emigrants who travel through it, to settle in the western countiy, it was, at this time, as broad and commodious as the roads wore near Philade]})hia. In some places, however, it was very rugged. Little boards painted black and nailed against the trees, every three miles, indicated to travellers the distance they had to go. In this part of 'J'enessee the mass of the forests is composed of all the s])ecies of trees which belong more particularly to the mountainous regions of North Ame- rica ; such as oaks, maples, hickory-nut trees, and pines. At West Point there was a fort pallisadoed round with trees, and built upon a lofty eminence, at the conflux of the rivers Clinch and Holsiein. A company of soldiers was kept here, for the purpose of holding the Indians in check, and also of protecting them against the iuliabi- tauts on the frontiers, whose cruelty and illiberal pro- ceedings had frequently excited them to war. These Indians are above the niiddle siy.e, arc well- proportioned, and healthy in appearance, notwithstand- ing the long fasting they are frequently obliged to en- r^ . .i ! '[U'l .h. r-ti fv. t^ if.. .11 " J- f. li i,-:* MICHAUX*3 JOURNEY FROMt There was only one warehouse, and this was supported by a commercial establishment at Charleston, To it tlie inhabitants of the country, for twenty miles round, came to purchase English manufactured goods and jewellery ; or to exchange, for these, a portion of their own produce, consisting of dried hams, buttjr, tallow, bear-skins and stag-skins. From Morganton to Charleston tlie distance is two hundred and eighty-five miles. There are several roads ; but M . Michaux took that which led through Lincolnton, Chester, and Columbia. The distance from Morganton to Lincolnton, is forty-five miles. Through the whole of this space the soil is extremely barren ; and the plantations, straggling five or six miles from each other, have an unfavourable appearance. The ivoods are chiefly composed of different kinds of oaks ; and the surface of the ground is covered with grass, in- termixed with other plants. Lincolnton^ at this time, consisted of forty houses, and, like all the small towns in th« interior of the United States, was surrounded by woods. There were, at Lincolnton, two or three large shops, which transact- ed the same kind of business as that : " Morganton. The tradesmen who kept them sent the produce of the adjacent country to Charleston, but they sometimes stocked themselves with goods from Philadelphia. At Lincolnton a newspaper was published twice a week. The price of subscription was two dollars per annum, but the printer, who was his own editor, took, by way of payment, flour, rye, wax, or other traffic, at at the market-price. As in England, the advertisements were the most important source of profit. The foreign news was almost wholly extracted from papers pub- lished at the seaports. The district around Lincolnton was peopled, in a j^reat measure, by Germans from Pennsylvania. Their ]>lantations were kept in excellent order, and their lands were well cultivated. Almost all had negro slaves, and there reigned among them a greater inde- pendence than in the families of English origin. LEXINGTON TO CIIARLESTOW. From Lincolnton to Chester, in the state of South Carolina, the distance is abowt seventy miles. Through the whole of this space the earth is light, and of a qua- lity inferior to that between Morganton and Lincolnton, although the mass of the forests is composed of TariouR species of oaks. In some places, however, pine-trees are in such abundance that, for several miles, the ground is covered with nothing else. Chester contained about thirty houses, built of wood ; and among the number were two inns aiid two respect- able shops. From Chester the cmmtry becomes worse in every respect than before ; and the traveller is obliged to put up at inns, where he is badly accommodated both in board and lodging, and at which he pays dearer than in any other part of the United States. The reputation of these inns is esteemed according to the quantity and different kinds of spirits which they sell. From Chester to Columbia the distance is fifty -five miles. M. Michaux passed through Winesboroiigk^ containing about a hundred and fifty houses. This place is one of the oldest inhabited towns in Carolina, and several planters o( the low country go thither every year to spend the summer and autumn. [Columbia, now the seat of government for the state of South Carolina, is situated below the confluence of tlie Broad and Saluda Rivers. It is laid out on a regu- lar plan, the streets intersecting each other at right angles. The buildings are erected at the distance of about three ciuartcrs of a mile from the Cangarrc River, on a ridge of high land, three hundred feet above the level of the water. In 1808, Columbia contained about one hundred and fifty hotises. Vineynrds, cotton, and hemp-plantations arc successfully cultlvr-ted in its vicinity ; and oil-mills, rope walks, and souie other ma- nufactories have been established here.] The distance from Columbia to Charleston is about a hundred and twenty miles ; and, through the whole of this space, the road crosses an even country, sandy and 1'^ ;. r^ li'i^ m ■M >«. 'W 126 A DESCRIPTION OP CIIARLKSTON. dry (lurirgthe summer, whilst in tlie autumn and wiri- ter, it is fo covered with water that, in several places, for the space of eight or ten miles, the horses are up to their middle. Every two or throe miles there were, by the side of the road, miserable log-houses, surrounded by little fields of Indian corn. The extreme unwholesomencss of the climate Is shown by the pale and livid countenances of the inhabitants, who, during the months of September and October, are almost all affected with tertian fevers. Very few per- sons take any remedy for th's complaint : they mcioly wait the approach of the first frosts, which, if they live so long, generally effect a cure. M. Michaux arrived at Charleston on the eighteenth of October, 1802, three months and a half after his de- parture from Philadelphia, having, in that time, travel- led over a space of nearly eighteen hundred miles. i^lebenti) IDap'jef 3.n0txixctm. UNITED STATES CONTINUED. A Description of Charleston, and of some places in the adjacent parts of Carolina and Georgia, Charleston is situated at the conflux of the rivers Ashley and Cooper. The groimd that it occupies is about a mile in length. From the middle of the prin- cipal street the two rivers might be clearly seen, were it not for a public edifice, built upon the banks of the Cooper, which intercepts the view. The most populous and commercial part of the town is situated along the Ashley. Several ill-constructed quai/s project into tlie river, to facilitate the trading-vessels taking in their cargoes. These tpiays are formed of the trunks of A DESCRirTIOK OF CllARLESTOK. U7 palm-trees, fixed topjether, and laid out in squares, one .ibove another. 'J'lie streets of Charleston are wide, hut not paved; eonsequently, every time the toot slips, IVom a kind of brick pavement before the doors, it is im- mersed, nearly ancle deep, in sand. I'lie rapid and almost incessant motion of carriages grinds this moving sand, and pulverizes it in such a maimer, that the most gen- tler wind iills the shops with it, and renders it very disagreeable to foot-passengers. The principal streets extend east and west between the two rivers, and others intersect these nearly at riglit angles. From its exposure to the ocean, this place is subject (0 storms and inundations, which aflcct the security of its harbour. The town also has suffered much by Hres. The last, in ITUO, destroyed upwards of five Jiundred houses, and occasioned damage to the amount of £.^00,000 sterling. The houses, in the streets near the water-side, are, for the most part, lofty, and built close together. The bricks are of a peculiar nature, being porous, and capable of resisting weather better than the firm, close, and red bricks of the northern states. They arc of a dark brown colour, which gives to the build- ings a gloomy appearance. The roofs are tiled or slated. In this part of the town the principal shop- keepers and merchants have their stores and ware- houses. Houses here bear a very high rent : those in Broad and Church-streets, which are valuable for shops, let for more than £.300 per annum; and those along the bay, with warehouses, let for ^£.700 and up- wards, according to the size and situation of the build- ings. The houses in Meeting-street and the back part of the town, are in general lofty and extensive, and are separated from each other by small gardens or yards, in which are the kitchens and out-ofHces. Al- most every house is furnished with balconies and verandas, some of which occupy the whole side of the building, from top to bottom, having a gallery for citch Hoor. The houses are sometimes shaded with ^ L i •-^is^iy U .;H m ■»' H sr •1 f' - 'If '^ 128 A DISCKIPTION OF CHARLESTOJ^. Venetian blinds, and afford to the inhabitants a cool and pleasant retreat, from the scorching niys of the «un. Most of the modern houses are constructed with taste and elegance; but tlie chief desifjn secui?; to be, to render them as cool as possible. The town is also crowded with wooden buildings, of an inferior description. Three of the public buildings in Charleston, and thg episcopal church of St. Michael, are situated at the comers, formed by the intersection of Broad and Meeting-streets. St. Michael's is a large and sub- ttantial edifice, with a lofty steeple and spire. Tlie Branch Bank of the United States occupies one o^ tlic corners: this is a substantial, and, compared with others in the town, is a handsome building; but, from an injudicious intermixture of brick, stone, and mar- ble, it has a very motley appearance. Another corner of the street is occupied by the gaol and armory: the fourth corner has a large and substantial brick building, cased with plaster. The ground-floor of this building is appropriated to the courts of law : in the first story are most of the public offices ; and the upper story contains the public library and the museum, A kind of tree, called the " pride of India," (melia azedarachfj is planted, in rows, along the foot-paths and the streets of Charleston. It does not grow very high ; but its umbrageous leaves and branches afford, to the inhabitants, an excellent shelter from the sun. It has the advantage also of not engendering insects ; for, in coneequence of its poisonous qualities, no insect can live upon it. When in blossom, the large clusters of its flowers resemble those of the lilac; these are suc- ceeded by bunches of yellow berries, each about the size of a small cherry. It is a deciduous tree ; but the berries remain during the winter, and drop off in the following spring. The health of the inhabitants is very much injured, in consequence of their general neglect of cleanliness. The drains that are formed^or carrying off the filth M A DESCRIPTION' OF CHARLESTOM. r?f) and putrid matter, which collect from all pnrts of the town, are too small for the purpose. This circum- stance, added to the effluvia of the muTiorous swamps and stagnant pools in the neighhouvhood, are known to be extremely injurious. Another neglect ol'heahh and comfort arises from a filthy practice, which prevails, of dragging dying horses, or the carcasses of dead ones, to a field in the outskirts of the town, near the high road, and there leaving them, to be devoured by troops of ravenous dogs and vultures. The latter, in ap- pearance, are not much unlike turkeys, and thence have obtained the name of turkey buzzards; but, from their carnivorous habits, they have a most offensive smell. These birds hover over Charleston in great numbers; and are useful in destroying putrid sub- stances, which lie in different parts of the city. At Charleston there is a garden dignified by the name of Vauxhall. It is situated in Broad-stroet, at a short distance from the theatre; but it possesses no decoration worthy of notice. It cannot even be com- pared with the common tea-gardens in the vicinity of London. On one side of it are warm and cold baths, for the accommodation of the inhabitants. During summer, vocal and instrumental concerts are perform- ed here, and some of the singers from the theatre are engaged for the season. The situation and climate of Charleston are, however, by no means adapted for en- tertainments of this description. There are, in this town, four or five holds and cof- fee-houses; but, except the Planters' Hotel, in Meet- ing-street, not one of them is superior to an English public-house. Charleston contains a handsome and commodious "market-place^ which extends from Meeting-street to the water-§ide, and is as weK supplied with provisions as the country will permit. Compared, however, with the markets in the towns of the northern states, the supply is very inferior, both in quality and quantity. The beef, mutton, veal, and pork, of South Carolina, I 9. . -(^ x;-' «i ■ f.- *{ f 'iiV. Sri 130 A Di; SCRIPT ION 01 n r * arc seldom imperfection; and the hot weather rriulcn it impossible to keep meat many hours after it is killonis to afford the most favourite soil, it sji.s[)c'tKls itsi'lf to trees of every (leseriptioii; and, as it bas no tenacity, but ban^s bke loose drapery, it ])r()bably does tbeni no injury. In tlic interior of tbe country tbe road traverses a desolate tract of s\va»n])s and sandy pine-forests, and afterwards a series of L(ranite rocks. Tbe capital of Nortb Carolina is Rnlcigh, a clean Jittlc country town. At one end of tbe only street stands tbe governor's brick bouse; and, at tbe otber, tbe senate or court-bouse, surrounded by a i(rass-plot, neatly laid out. Tbe bouses are, in general, small, and built of wood; but some of tbem bave foundations of ♦granite, wbicb is tbe only kind of stone in tlie eoiuitry. Tbe total want of limestone, and tbe scarcity ol brick- eartli, render it berc extremely dilHcult and exi)ensive to ijfive to buildings any degree of stability. Altbougb llaleigb is considered tbe capital of Nortb Carolina, Newbeni is tbe largest town in tbe state. So long ago as tbe year 171)0, it contained four bun- dred bouses; but tbese were cbielly built of wood. In September, 1791, about one-tbird of tbis town was consumed by fire; but, since tbat period, more of tbe bouses bave been built of brick tban before. Ncwberu is situated on a flat, sandy point of land, near tbe junction of tbe tv/o rivers Neus and Trent, and about tbirty miles from tbe sea. It carries on a trade with tbe West Indies and tbe interior of Carolina, cbieflv in tar, pitcb, turpentine, 'umber, and corn. About a hundred miles south-west of Charleston is the town of Savannah, situated upon an open, sandy plain, which forms a bluff or cliff, about fifty feet above the level of the river of the same name. It is laid out, in the form of a parellelogram, about a mile and a quarter long, and half a mile wide. The streets are broad, and open into spacious squares, each of wbicli has in the middle a pump, surrounded by trees. ji''^.| i'''CRTPT{OS, There arc nrithcr loot-paths nor paveinent in tin's place; and, consequently, every one walking in the streets, sinks, at each step, up to the ancles in sand; and, in windy weather, the eyes, mouth, and nostrils, are filled with sand. The houses in Savannah are, for the most part, built of wood, and stand at a little distance from each other. In two or three of the streets, however, they are close together, and many of them are built with brick: these contain the shops and stores. The prin- cipal street is that called the Bay; and in this there are several good houses, of brick and wood. It ex- tends nearly three quarters of a mile in length ; and opposite to it is a beautiful walk, planted with a double row of trees. Similar trees are planted in other parts of the town. 1'his agreeable promenade is near the margin of the height, upon which the town stands; and the merchants' stores, warehouses, and wharfs, for the landing, housing, and shipping of goods, ai e imme- diately below. From the height there i fine view of the Savannah river, as far as the sea ; . 'n a contrary direction, to the distance of several miles above the town. About the centre of the walk, and just on the verge of the cliff, stands the Exchange, a large brick build- ing, which contains some public offices; and an as- !?cmbly-room, where a concert and ball are held every fortnight, during tlse winter. The situation of Savannah, and the plan upon which it is laid out, if the town contained better houses, would render it far more agreeable, as a place of resi- dence, than Charleston. Its greater elevation must also be more conducive to the health of the inhabi- tants, than the low and flat site of the other city. Both, however, are in the neighbourhood of swamps, marshes, and thick woods, wliich engender diseases, injurious to the constitution of white people. On the swamps, around Savannat, great quantities of rice art grown. BAKTRAM's tXClIRSIOlT VROM CIlARI.LsTON. 13.^ UNITED STATES CONTINUED. Karrattvc of an excursion from Chnrleaton into Ccorrria and West Florida. From Travels in North America ^ bij William Bartram. At the request of Dr. Fotliergill, an eminent physician in London, Mr. Bartram went to North Americii, for the purpose, chiefly, of collecting, in Florida, Carolina, and Georgia, some of the rare and useful productions which had been described, ly preceding travellers, to abound in those states. He left England in the month of April, 1773, and continued abroad several years. In 1776, he was at Charlc on; and on the 22d of April, in that year, he set otl' on horseback, intending to make an excursion into the country of the Cherokee Indians. He directed his course towards Augusta, a town on the Savannah river. During his first day's journey he observed a large or- chard of mulberry-trees, which were cultivated for the feeding of silkworms. The notes of the mocking-bird enlivened all the woods. He crossed into Georgia, by a ferry over the Savannah ; and he thence passed through a range of pine-forests and swamps, about twelve miles in extent. Beyond these, in a forest, on the border of a swamp, and near the river, he reached a cow-pen, the proprietor of which possessed about fifteen hundred head of cattle. He was a man of amiable manners, and treated Mr. Bartram with great hospitality. The chief profits made by this person were obtained from beef, which he sent, by the river, for the supply of distant markets. About one hundred miles beyond this place is Augusta^ in one of the most delightfid and most elegibk i I'f §" '**^viiP -r 1.3 !■ nAUTllAM's EXCURSION* FROM CIIARLKSTOS situations i'Tiacfinablc. It stands on an extensive plain, near tlio banks of the river Savannah, which is hen; navigable for vessels of twenty or thirty tons burden. Augusta, thus seated near the head of an important navigation, comiTiands the trade and commerce of the vast and fertile regions above it; and, from every side, to a great distance. [Since Mr. Bartram \vas }iere, this place has become the metropolis of Georgia.] Below Augusta, and on the Georgia side of tlio river, the road crosses a ridge of high swelling hills, of unconnnon elevation, and sixty or seventy feet higher than the surface of the river. These hills, from three feet below the common vegetative surface, to .iie depth of twenty or thirty feet, are entirely com- posed of fossil oyster-shells, which, internally, are of the colour and consistency of v.'hite marble. The shells are of immense magnitude *, generally fifteen or twenty inches in length, from six to eight wide, and from two to four inches in thickness; and their hol- lows are sutficiently deep to receive a man's toot. From Augusta, Mr. Bartram proceeded to Fort James. For thirty miles the road led him near the banks of the Savannah. The suiface of the land was uneven, in ridges or chains of swelling hills, and cor- responding vales, with level downs. The latter af- forded grass and various lierbage; and the vales and hills produced forest-trees and shrubs of several kinds. In the rich and humid lands, which bordered the creeks and bases of tlic hills, Mr. Bartram discovered many species of plants wliich were entirely new to him. Fort James enclosed about an ac^c of ground, and contained barracks for soldiers, and a house for tlu; governor or commandant. It was situated at the ex- treme point of a promontory, formed by the junction of the Broad and Savannah rivers; and, at the distance of two miles, there was a place laid out for the con- struction of a town, which was to luive the name of Vart mouth. ' 1S*T0 GKOROTA ANT) WEST FLORIIkA. ur, The snrcreon of the fjanisou conducted Afr. Bar- tram, about five miles tVom the fort, to a spot where he showed him some remarkable Indian momunents. These were on a plain, about thirty yards from the river, and they consisted of conical mounds of earth, with square terraces. The principal mount was in the form of a cone, forty or fifty feet high, and two or three hundred yards in circumference at the base. It was flat at the top; a spiral track, leading from the ground to the summit, was still visible ; and it was surmo\mted by a large and spreading cedar-tree. On the sides of the hill, facing the four cardinal points, were niches or centry-boxes, all enterpd from the winding path. The design of these structures Mr. Bartram was unable to ascertain. The adjacent grounds had been cleared, and were at this time planted with Indian corn. On the 1 0th of May, Mr. Bartram set out from Fort James. He rode six or eight miles along tlu; bank of the river, and then crossed it into South Carolina. The road led him over a country, the surface of which was undulated by ridges or chains of hills, and some- times rough with rocks and stones ; yet generally pro- ductive of forests, and of a great variety of curious and interesting plants. The season was unusually wet : showers of rain fell almost daily, and were frequently attended with thun- der. Hence travelling was rendered disagreeable, toilsome, and hazardous ; particularly in the country through which he had to pass; an uninhabited wilder- ness, abounding in rivers and brooks. During his progress, Mr. Bartram was kindly re- ceived into the houses of such planters as lived near the road. In his journey betwixt Fort James and the Cherokee town of Sifiica, he observed an abundance of grape-vines, which ramble and spread themselves over the shrubs and low trees. The fra])es, when ripe, are of various colours, and yield ex :ellent juice. Sinica is a respectable Cherokee settlement, on the 'm IfPlI ■^ i!,V 1 ':' &Mi :, i r, I'lj^f V ■■Mi m »)^' 13G r.ARTRAM's EXCURSION FROM CHARLESTON east hank of the Keotve river; but the greatest nutnbc r of Indian habitations are on the opposite shore, where also stands the council-house, in a plain, betwixt the river and a range of lofty hills, which rise mag- nificently, and seem to bend over the green plains and the river. Sinica had not, at this time, been long built The number of inhabitants was estimated at about iive hundred, among whom about a hundred warriors could be nuistered. From Sinica Mr. Bartram went to another Indian town, about sixteen miles distant, called Keotve. It stood in a fertile vale, which was now enamelled with scarlet strawberries and blooming plants, of innu- merable kinds, through the midst of which the river meandered, in a most pleasing manner. The adjacent heights were so formed and disposed, that, with little expence of mihtary architecture, they might have been rendered almost unassailable. In the vicinity of Kcowe, Mr. Bartram saw several ancient Indian mounts or tumuli, and terraces. On leaving this place he crossed the river at a ford, and, soon afterwards, began to ascend the steep ridges on the west side of the valley. The prospects of the surrounding country here presented to his view, were, in many instances, peculiarly beautiful. Having reached the summits of the mountains, he afterwards passed through a series of magnificcBt forests, and tJien approached an ample meadow, bordered with a high circular amphitheatre of hills, the ridges of whicli rose magnificently one above another. After this the surface of the land was level, and, in some places exhibited views of grand forests, and dark, de- tached groves, and in others of fertile vales and mea- dows. After having crossed a delightful river, a main branch of the Tiigih, Mr. Bartram passed through a moun- tainous country. Here, being overtaken by a tremendous hurricane, accompanied with torrents of rain, and the most awful thunder imaginable, in the nudst of a soli- INTO GEORGIA AND WEST FLORIDA. 137 tary wilderness, he was glad to obtain shelter in a for- saken Indian dwelling. In this he lighted a fire, dried his clothes, comforted himself with a frugal repast of biscuit and dried beef, and afterwards passed the night. At some distance beyond this cottage, were the ruins of an Indian town called Slicoe. At this place was a vast Indian mount or tumulus, with a great terrace. Here also were old peach and plum-orchards, some of the trees of which still appeared to be thriving and fruitful. From Sticoe, proceeding along a vale^ and crossing a dehghtful brook, which falls into the Tenes- sce, Mr. Bartram followed its course nearly as far ae Vowe, an Indian town which stands in a valley on the bank of one of the branches of the river Tenessee. He had letters of introduction to a gentleman resident in thig place, who had, for many years, been a trader with the Indians, and who was noted for his humanity, his pro- bity, and his equitable dealings with them. By this gentleman he was received with every demonstration of hospitality and friendship. After having staid two days at Cowe, and, in the mean time, having made some excursions to places in its vicinity, Mr. Bartram proceeded on his journey, and was accompanied,'^ about fifteen miles, by his hospitable friend, the trader. After this gentleman had left him, he was in the midst of solitude, surrounded by dreary and trackless mountains ; and, for some time, he was unable to erase from his mind a notion that his present situation in some degree resembled that of Nebuchad- nezzar, when expelled from the society of men, and constrained to roam in the wilderness, there to herd and to feed with the beasts of the forest. He, however, proceeded %vith all the alacrity which prudence would permit. His present object was, at all events, to cross the Jore Mountains, said to be the highest land in tlic Cherokee country. These he soon afterwards began to ascend; and, at length, he accomplished one part of his arduous task. From the most elevated peak of these i't, 4! 5 2 ' -M" 1 J "' f! » '^\ }:iH 15AUTUAM S r.XCURSlON FROM CIIAKLLSTON .11 n in iTiountains, he beheld, vvitli rapture and astonishniriit. .•I siibhmcly awful scene of magnificence, a world ol mountains piled upon mountains. On the ensuing day, still proceeding in his journoy westward, Mr. Bartram, on descending from the heii>:lits, observed a company of Indians on horseback. Tluy rapidly approached him ; and, under an impression tliat one of them, who was at the head of the troop, was tlie emperor or grand chief of the Cherokees, Mr. Bartri'iu turned out of the path in token of respect. In this supposition he was correct, and the compliment was ac- cepted, for the chief, with a cheerfid smile, came up to him, and placing his hand on his breast, then offered it to Mr. Bartram, and heartily shook hands with him. The chief made enquiry respecting a gentleman ol Charleston, with whom he was acquainted, and after- wards welcomed Mr. Bartram into his country, as a friend and brother. Being, at thiu time, on a journey to Charleston, he shook hands with Mr. Bartram, bade him heartily farewell, and then proceeded. Describing the Cherokee Inclians, our traveller says that these people construct their habitations in a square form, each building being only one story high. Tiio materials consist of logs or trunks of trees, stripped of their bark, notchal at the ends, fixed one upon another, and afterwards plaistcred, both inside and out, witli clay well tempered with dry grass ; and the whole covered or roofed with the bark of the chesnut-tree, or with bfoat' tlie bay of that name. This place has been nearly a iiiile in length; but it was now in ruins. Manv of the houses were, at this time, imoccupied, and moul- dering away; yet there were a few good buildings, inliabited by French, English, Scotch, and Irish, ami emigrants from the northern parts of America. Tin; principal French buildings were constructed of brick, anfl were one story high, but on an extensive scale. They were S(|uare, and were built so as to enconii)ass, on three sides, a large area or court-yard. The ])rincij)al apartment was on the side fronting the street, 'ibis plan ot'habitations seems to have been copied from that of ilie Creek Indians. The liouses of the poorer class of < ','±1 ^ •!4«;; I a bartham's excursion from CnAiaiiSTO!^ inhabitants were constructed of a strong frame of cy- press-timber, filled up with brick; plaistered and white-washed inside and out. On the 5th of August, having procured a h'(j;lit canoe, Mr. Bartram set outj on a voyage up the rivor. He sailed along the eastern channel, and passed seve- ral well-cultivated plantations, on fertile islands. Here the native productions exceeded, in luxuriance, any that he had ever seen: the reeds and canes, in particular, grew to an immense height and thick- ness. On one part of the shore of the river, he was delighted by the appearance of a great number of plants, of a species of Oenothera, each ])lant being covered with hundreds of large golden yellow flowers. Near the ruins of several plantations, wore seen peach and fig-trees, richly laden with fruit. Beyond these, were high forests and rich swamps, where canes and cy- press-trees grew of astonishing magnitude. The mag' nolia gratui(f{ora, here flourished in the utmost luxu- riance; and flowering-trees and shrubs were observed, in great numbers and beauty. Several large alligators were seen basking on the shores, and others were swimming along the river. After having pursued his course for several miles, and made many important botanical discoveries, Mr. Bartram returned to Mobile, for the purpose of proceeding thence, in a trading- vessel, westward, to the Pearl river. Previously, however, to setting out on his voyage westward, he had an opportunity of visiting Pensacoln, the capital of West Florida, about a hundred miles east of Mobile. This city possesses some natural advantages, su})erior to those of any other port in this province. It is situated on a gently rising ground, environing a harbour, sufficiently capacious to shelter all the navies of Europe. Several rivers fall into this harbour; but none of them are navigable for ships of burden, to any considerable distance. In Pensacohi there are several hundred habitations. The governor's palace is a large brick building, ornamented with » tNld GEORGIA AND WEST FLORIDA. 113 of ey- ed ami a lii,^ht le rivor. >d seve- ,. Here ice, any mcs, in I thick- , he was )f plants, covered s. Near each and ese, weva and cy- Ihe mag- lost luxu- observcd, alligators lers were pursued mportant o Mobile, trading- tower. The town is defended by a fortress, within which is the council-chamber, houses for the officers, and barracks for the soldiers of the garrison. On tl>e sand-hills, near this place, Mr. Bartram discovered several species of plants, which at that time' had not been described. Having again returned to Mobile, he left that place, in a trading-boat, the property of a Frenchman, who was about to sail to his plantations, on the banks of the Pearl river. Before Mr. Bartram set out on this expedi- tion, he had been attacked by a severe complaint in his eyes, which occasioned extreme pain, and almost de- prived him of sight: it did not, however, deter him irom proceeding. On his arrival at Pearl river, he was, however, so ill, as to be laid up, for several weeks, at the house of an English gentleman, who resided on an island in that river. As soon as he was sufficiently recovered to prosecute his journey, he proceeded, in a boat, to Manchac on the Mississippi. Having sailed westward for some days, he entered the river Amite, and, ascending it, arrived at a landing- place, from which he crossed, by land, to Manchac, about nine miles distant. The road was straight, spa- cious, and level, and extended beneath the shadow of a grand forest. On arriving at the banks of the Mississippi, Mr. Bartram stood, for some time, fascinated by the magnificence of this grand river. Its width was nearly a mile, and its depth at least two hundred and forty feet. But it is not merely the ex- pansion of its surface which astonishes and delights : its lofty banks, the steady course of its mighty flood, tlie trees which overhang its waters, the magnificent forests by which it is bounded ; all combine in exhibit- ni{T prospects the most sublime that can be imagined. At Manchac, the banks are at least fifty feet in per- pendicular hci€ing overcharged with the floods of a violent rain, whieh had fallen the day beiore. There was no possibility of crossing this river by fording it. NVith eonsider;i])le difiiculty, a kind of raft w as made, of dry canes and pieces of timber, bound together by a speries of vines or vegetable cords, which are common in tht" woods of the tropical districts of America. When this rait Avas completed, one of the Indians swam over the river, having in his mouth the end of a long vine attached to it' and, bv hauling the raft backward and forward. ISTO OEOROIA AND VV2.1T TLOUIDA. u: •ill the poods wore safi-ly landed on the opposite s\{\o : tlie men and Ijorses swam across. Ill llie evi'ning of the day on wliicli they passed iliis stream, the party arrived at the hanks of the great Tallupoosc river; and encam])ed, for the night, nnder tlio sheher of some Indian cahins. On tlie ensuing il;iy they were conducted across the river, in the canoes of a party of Indians who were resident in the neigh- honrliood. Not long afterwards, the travellers ar- rived at the Indian town of Aluhama, situated near tlio junction of two iine rivers, the Tal/apuosc and the Cooxa. At tills place were seen tlie traces of an ancient I'n nch fortress, \Tiih a few pieces of cannon, Iialf-huried in tlie earth. Tiiis, says Mr. Bartrani, is lurhiips one of the most eligible situations in the uorld for a large town : it is a level plain, at the cou- rtux of two majestic rivers, eacii navigable for vessels, to the distance of at least five hundred miles above it, and spreading their immerous branches over a great extent of fertile ;ind delightful country. The travilltrs continued all night at Alabama, where a Lfrand enti rtainment was made fur them, with nmsic .111(1 dancing, in the great square. They then ])ro- Kcdcd along the Tallapoose to Mucclassc. In their ioiirney they passed through numerous plantations and hidian towns, and were every where treated by tin* inhabitants w ith hospitality and friendship. About three weeks after this, Mr. Bartram joined a (oiiipany of traders, and proceeded with them to Au- unsta. They set out in the morning of the "^d of .l.'tnuary, 1788, the whole surface of the ground biing )vere(l with a white and beautifully sparkling irost. The company, besides Mr. Bartram, consisted of four iutn, with about thirty horses, twenty of which were l;id('n with leather and furs. In three days they ar- rived at the Apalachiila or Chata Uchc river, and cross- id it at the towns of (Jhe/iau and Ussda. These tow ns nearly join each other, yet the inhabitants speak dif- -'i-ivnt languages. Beyond this river nothing of iiw- (( II o « place, two companies of traders from Augusta, eacli consisting of fifteen or twenty men, with seventy or eighty horses. The traders whom Mr. Bartram ac' companied, had with them a portable leather boat, eight feet long. It was made of thick sole-leather, was folded up, and carried on one ol the horses. Tliis boat was now put together, and rigged; and in it the party was ferried across the river. They afterwards crossed the Oconnc, in the same manner; and en- camped in fertile fields on the banks of that beau- tiful river. Proceeding thence, they encamped, tlie next day, on the banks of the Ogec/ie; and, after two days hard travelling, beyond this river they arrived at Augusta, whence, shortly afterwards, Mr. Bartram proceeded to Savannah. STljirteentl) IDap'je: Jiutftruction* UNITED STATES CONTINUED. Xarrative of Mn, B.vrtram's Jounici/ from Savannah into East Florida. ]>KAViNG Savannah at the most beautiful season of tlu year, Mr. Bartram proceeded, on horseback, to Sun- burtf, a sea-port, about lorty miles distant; and thence to iort Barrington. Much of the intervening country was level, and well w.-jtered by large streams. Tiu road was straight, spacious, and in excellent rej)air. For a considerable distance it was bordered on each side by groves, of various kinds of trees and shrubs. SAVANNAH INTO EAST FLORIDA. 149 entwined with bands and garlands of flowering-plants. Extensive plantations of rice and corn, now in early verdure, were seen, decorated, here and there, with groves of floriferous and fragant trees and shrubs, through which, at intervals, appeared the neat habita- tions of the proprietors. At Fort Barrington, Mr. Bartram crossed the river Alatamaha, here about five hundred yards in width. When safely landed on the opposite side, he mounted his horse, and followed the high road, through an un- inhabited wilderness, to the ferry on St, Ilk. 'l\\e siulden transition, from rich cultivated settlements, to high pine-forests, and dark grassy savannas, formed, he says, no disagreeable contrast; and the new objects, in the works of nature, which here excited his y.tten- tion, soon reconciled him to the change. In the midst of tlie woods he observed great numbers of dens, or caverns, which had been dug in the sand-hills, by the gopher, or great land tortoise. The next days progress, presented scenes nearly similar to these; though the land was lower, more level and humid, and the produce was more varied. Mr. Earl ram passed some troublesome cane-swamps, in which he saw several herds of horned-cattle, horses, and deer, and noticed many interesting plants. In the evening, he arrived at St. lllc's\ where he lodLjed; and, next morning, having crossed the river in a ferry-boat, he proceeded towards St. Mary's. The appearance of the country, its soil, and prodiic- tii)ns, httwcen these rivers, were nearly simihir to those which he had already passed, except that the savamias were more frecpient and extensive. Mr. Bartram had now passed the utmost frontier of the white settlements, on that border ; and the day was drawing towards a close, when, on a sudden, an Indian, armed with a rifle, crossed the ])ath, at a con- siderable distance before him. This man, turning 'hovt round, came up at full gallop. Though his in- '•■mions, at first, seemed liostile, he, after some hcsiia- (ifc 1 *i fe I " S.-. '' «.; 'St:, -f no DARTRAM S JOURKJEY FROM tion, shook Mr. Bartram by the hand, diiTcted iiijii o,, his way, and then proceeded in his former eoursr. Mr. Bartram again set forward, and, after ridini,' eiirh or ten miles, arrived at the banks of St. Marifx. opjK)site to the stores, and got safely over that river, before dark. Tlie savannas about St. Mary's displayed a vcrv charming appearance, of Howers and verdure: tluii more elevated borders were varied with beds of vio- lets, lupines, and ainaryllis; and with a new and beaiui- i'ul species of sonsitivo plant. In a subsequent excursion, Mr. Bartram, accnni- panied by some other gentlemen, passed the moutli o* St. Mary's, and enrertil the rwer St. Juan, or .S7. John. At Cowford, a public i'erry over this river, and about thirty miles from its mouth, ho, procured a neat littk' sail-boat; and, liaving stored it witli JKcessarios tor his voyage, he pr()ce( (led up the river iilone, in search of new productions of nntiue; ha\iiig his chief hajjpi- ness centered in tracing and admiring the infinite pnv:ti, majesty, and perfection ol the great Creator, and in tlic contemplation tlu.t. througli divine permission, hemitrlt be instrumentjd in introducing into his native country, some productions which might become useful to so- ciety. His little vessel, being furnished witli a goo.i sail, and with tishing-taekle, a swivel gun, powd( r, ami ball, Mr. Bartram fomid himself wrll cjpiipped for li!^ voyage, of about one hundred n)iles, to the tradii'- houses of the Indians. f laving proceeded about eight miles above Cowford. to a place where the river was nearly three miles broad. he was obliged to land, as his boat had sustained soim damage from the wind ; and, a thunder-storm coniiii: on, he resolved to contimie on shore till the mornintr. Observing a large oak-tree, wjiieh had been tln'own down by a hurricane, and which ottered him a conveni- ent shelter, as its branches bore up the trunk a siilV- cient heiirht from the earth, to admit him either to ^i SWANNAII INTO EAST riORlDA. \:>\ <>v 10 lie down beneath it, he spread his sail, slanting tVoni tljc trunk of the tree to tlie i^roiind, on the vvind- uard side; and, havinj» collected a quantity of wood sulHcient to keep up a tire during the niirht, he kindled one in front. He then spread skins on the ground, anil upon these he placed a blanket, one half of which lie lav down upon, and the other he turned over him for a covering. The wind was furious, and tlie thunder and li«r]itnini>- were tremendous; but, happily, not nujch rain fell. Next niorning, on reconnoitring tlie neighbourhood, he 'vas roused by the report of a musket iu)t far off; ;ind, shortly afterwards, an Indian stepped out of a thicket, having a large turkey-cock slung across iiis shoulders. He saw Mr. Bartram, and, stepping up to him, spoke in English, bidding him good morning, lie stated that he lived at an adjacent plantation, and that he was employed as a hunter. Mr. Bartram ac- companied him to the house of his master, about lialf a mile distant, and was there received in the most polite and friendly manner imaginable. The owner of this plantation invited him to stay some days, for the pur- pose of resting and refreshing himself; and he inune- diately sot his carpenters to work, to repair the da- maged vessel. Mr. Bartram spent one day with this gentleman. The house in which he resided was on an eminence, about one hundred and lifty yards from the river. On the right of it was an orangery, consisting of many hundred trees, natives of the place, and left standing when the ground about it was cleared. Those tr<'cs were large, nourishing, in bloom, and, at the same tinu', loaded with ripe golden fruit. On the other side was a sj)acious garden, occupying a regular slope of ground, banks of the river ; but sometimes he was obliged to pitch his tent upon the shore, or to sleep under the protection of his sail. In the latter case he was, not unfrequently, disturbed at night, by the plunging and roaring of alligators, and the loud croaking of frogs ; and, in the morning, by the noise of wild turkeys, hun- dreds of which roosted around him. During his pro- gress he saw great numbers of alligators, some of them immensely large. He was successful in collecting seeds, and specimens of uncommon trees and plants. In some places he was astonished to see the immense magnitude to which the grape-vines grew. These were not unfrequently from nine to twelve inches in di- ameter : they twined round the trunks of trees, climbed to their very tops, and then spread along, from tree to tree, almost throughout the forest. The fruit, however, was small and ill-flavoured. As Mr. Bartram was coasting along the shore, he .suddenly saw before him an Indian settlement or vil- lage. It was in a fine situation, on the slope of a bank which rose gradually from the water. There were eight or ten habitations, in a row or street, fronting the water, and about fifly yards distant from it. Some of the youths of this settlement were naked, and up to their hips in water, fishing with rods and lines ; whilst others, younger, were diverting themselves in shootiniT frogs with bows and arrows. As Mr. Bartram passed, he observed some elderly people reclining on skins, was, not BAVANNAH INTO EAST TLORIDA. 1.-3 spread upon the ground, beneath tho cool sliaclc of oaks and palm-trees, that were ranged in front of tho houses. These persons arose, and eyed him as ho passed ; but, perceiving that he proceeded without stop- ping, they resumed their former position. There was an extensive orange-grove, at tlie upper end of the village: the trees were large, and had been carelully pruned ; and the ground beneath them was clean, open, and airy. Around the village were seve- ral acres of cleared land, a considerable portion of which was planted with maize, batatas, beans, porapions, scjuaslies, melons, and tobacco. After leaving this village, the river became mueli contracted, and continued so till Mr. Bartram reached Charhtia or Rolles Torvti, where it was not more than iialf amile wide. Here he came to an anchor. Tliis town was founded by Denis Rolle, Esq. and is situated on a cliff on the cast side of the river. Having obtained directions for discovering a little remote island, where tho traders and their goods were secreted, he set sail again, and, in about an hour and a half, arrived at the de:sired place. At this island he was received with great politeness ; and he was induced to continue there several months, daring wliich he was treated with the utmost hospitality, by tlie agents of one of the British mercantile houses. Tlie nimierous plains and groves in the vicinity of the island, afforded to Mr. Bartram much gratification in his botanical pursuits: and, at the termination of his residence here, he set out with a party of traders, v. ho were about to proceed to the upper parts of the river. The traders, with their goods in a lar'jo l)();it, v.ent llrMt^ and Mr. Bartram, in his little visst.!, fullowed tlunii. The day was pleasant, and the wind fair and moderate. In the evening tliey arrived at Mount Royal, a house belonging to a Mr. Kean. This place? v>as tjurroundod by magnificent groves of orange-trees, oaks, pahns, and rnngnolias; and commanded a most enchaniing view of tlic great Lake George, ai;out two miles distant. mm Li-! If &4^* LI Pi'F- 4-1 *•-.' ■■^ • ■ ' ir \ ■ i.:j BAHTRAM ^ JOURN'EY FROM LuJce. George is a bfautiful piece of water, a, dilata- tion of" the river St. John, and about fifteen miles wide. It is ornamented with two or three fertile islands. Mr. Barti urn landed, and passed the night on one oftlum; and he found, growing upon it, many curious floweiiiiu shrubs, a new and beautiful species of convolvulus, and .some other species of plants, which he had never before sjeen. A favourable gale enabled the voyagers, towards tlic close of the ensuing day, to enter the river at tlu southern extrennty of the lake. Here they found ;i safe and pleasant harbour, in a most desirable situation. Opposite to them was a vast cypress swam]), environed by a border of grassy marshes ; and, around the har- bour, was a grove of oaks, palm, magnolia, and orangr- trees. 'I'he bay was, in some places, almost covered with the leaves of a beautit'ul water-lily, the large. sweet-scented yellow flowers of which grew two or thn r feet above the surface of the water. A great number oi fine trout were caught, by fishing, with a hook and line. near the edges of the water-lilies; and many wild tin- keys and deer were seen in the vicinity of this place. On the ensuing day the party reached a tradinu- houso, called SjmldhiLi'.'! vppcr Store, wliero Mr. Ikm- tram resided for several wi-eks. l>e;ng afterwards de- sirous of continuip.ii: his travels and observations hiulier up the river, and, having received an invitation to vi-it a plantation, the property of an l''nglis]'. gentleman, about sixty miles distant, he resolved to ])ursue his re- searches to that place. For several miles the left banl: of the river had numerous islands of rich swamp land. The opposite coast was a perpendicular cliiften or twelve feet high : this was crowned by trees and shrubs, wliid;, in some ])laces, rendered the scenery CKtrem(>ly beau- tiful. 'J'he straight trunks of the palm-trees wire, in many instances, from sixty to ninety feet high, of a l)riglit ash colour, and were terminated by Jihunes of leaves, .some of them nearly fifteen feet in kiigth. Mr. Bartram landed, for the night, in a little bay, not SAVAKN'AIl INTO LAST rLOKIDA. ir>r, s \vl(K>. . Mr. f tlit'm; Ills, and r before :ir(ls liic • at thr found a it nation, ivironod tlio liar- orans^c- covcred e larijt', or tlnw unibcr of and line. tild tur- icc. radiuL;- h: \h\- vds dc- liiulior hit far iVom tlic entrance! to a small lake, anothor expan- sion of the river. Near this j)lace there was much h)w and swampy hind, and thi? islands in the river w( re nu- merous. The eveniiii^ was cool and calm, and he went out in his canoe, to fish for trout. As the evenint^ closed, allii^ators appeared in great numbers aloni^' the shores and in the river. Mr. Bartrani states that he was witness to a combat between these dreadlul ani- mals, which inspired him with horror, especially as his little harbour was surrounded by them. In endeavour- iu boat and devoured by them. He held in his hand a large elul), which he used so eificaciously, as to beat them off: he then hastened towards the shore, as the only means of preservation left. Here the water was shallow ; and his ferocious o})ponents, some of which wi're twelve feet in length, returned into deeper water. After this, as Air. Bartrani was ste])])ing out of his canoe, an alligator rushed up to him, near his feet, and, with its head and shoulders out of the v.ater, lay there for some time. Mr. liartram ran for his gun, and, having a heavy charge in it, he siiot the animal in the head and killed liim. \Vhile Mr. Bartrain was employed in cleansing some (ish tor his supper, he raised his iu\id, and belu Id, through the clear water, another of these animals ot' large size, moving slowly towards him ; and he step})ed hack, at the instant the beast was prej)aiing to spring upon him. This excessive boldness gave him great un- easiness, as he feared he should be obliged to kee]) on watch tlirough. the whole night. He had made the best '^:W^ 1 I'mI'I r'U 150 BARTRAM S JOURNEY FROM preparation, in his power, for passing the niu^lit, when he nas roused by a tumultuous noise, which seemed to come from the harbour. On going to the water's edge he belield a scene so astonishing, that it was some time before he could credit the evidence even of his own senses. The river, though of great width, appeared, from sliore to shore, to be almost a solid bank of fish. Those were of various species, and were pushing along the river, towards the little lake, pursued by alligators in such incredible numbers, and so close together, that, had the animals been harmless, Mr. Bartram imagined it might have been possible to have walked across tlic water upon their heads. During this extraordinary passage, thousands of fish were caught and swallowed by them. The horrid noise of their closing jaws, their phmging amid the broken banks of fish, and rising witli tlieir prey some feet above the water, the floods of water and blood rushing from their mouths, and tlie clouds of vapour issuing from their nostrils, were truly frightful. This scene continued, at intervals, during the whole night. After it was ended, Mr. Bartram says he found himself more reconciled to his situation than he had before been; as he was convinced that the extra- ordinary assemblage of alligators at this plnce had been owing to the annual passage of these shoals of fish ; nrul that they wore so well employed in their own element, that he had little occasion to fear they would wander from the banks for the purpose of annoying him. It being now almost night, he returned to his tent, where he had left his fish broiling, and his kettle of rice stewing ; and having, in his packages^ oil, pepper, and fialt, and, in place of vinegar, excellent oranges hanging in abundance over his head, he sat down and regaled himself cheerfully. Before he retired to rest, he was suddenly roused by a noise behind him, towards the land. He sprang up, seized his gun, and, going cau- tiously in the direction from which the sound approach- ed, he beheld two large bears, advancing towards him. He waited till they were about thirty yards distant, SAVANNAH INTO EAST TLOI^IDA. ]-'' * / le was Is the cau- roach- 3 liini. istaut, wlirn lie snapped his piece at thoin. It flasliod in tlu? p:in, but they botli galloped oft', and did not return. After this he passed the ni«irht without any other moles- tation than being occasionally awaked by the whoopin;.'; of owls, the screaming of bitterns, or by wo;• ■ t.^r 't'v '■:.■ ^.U/:k lo3 BAKTRAM S JOl'UNT.Y FROM ami tlicn another layor ol" cj^its ; and, in this ni;iinnr. one stratum upon anotlur, nearly to the top. Mr. IJar- trani supposes that the ej^i^s are Iiatclied by tl>e heat of thesiui; and that the leniaU' aHii^ator carefully watches her own nest ot'epr^s until they are all hatched, lie says it is certain that the yoiui'r ones are not left to snit't lor themselves, lor he had iVe(|uent opportunities (.f seeini( I'emale alliir.itors leading ahout the shores their ollsprin<^, as a hen does her chickens. Alter havinijf «;ratilied his curiosity, he continiuil his voya_<»e up the river. l\\ his pr(>irress he oh- >^erved several small Hoatini^ islands. The swani)». on the hanks of tlu* ri\( r were, in general, three or lour feet above the level of tiie water; and the tinilxi upon them was lar^e, but thiidy scattered. 'J he hiatk mould of these svvamj)s was coveriKl with a succukiit and tender kind of iq;rass, which, when chewed, w.is sweet and a«^reeable to the taste, somewhat like yoiiii; garlands of various climbing vc- t'-etables, botli .shrubs and plants. One of these had V. hite llowers, each as big as a small funml, the tulic live or six inches in length, and not thicker than a to- bacco-pipe. Jt was curious toob.scrve the wild s(|uasli, \^a species of cucnrbita,) which grew upon the lofty limbs of the trees: its yellow fruit, somewhat of tlu' siy.i; and shape of a large orange, pendant over tiie ■rr'i^ SWANK. Vll INTO i;Af.T FFORinA. l.VJ water. Tii sonio jKirts there were steep cliffs on rjjch side of tlie river. DiirinLf" tlu« middle ot" the d.iy flio weather was so intensely hot, that Mr. Bartr.mi was oblifjfed to s(n k ior slu-lter under the shade ot' the trees which i]rrew upon the banks. He passed another lake, the eastern shores of whieli were adorned with dark, hiirh forests: on the north and south were appareiuly endless plains and meadows, cm- heliished with islets and promontories eovereil witli trees. Whilst he was navifTatinL? tiiis lake, he was ex- pose d to the most treinendous storm of thunder and lil^htnin*^ that he had ever witnessed. The lofty tbrests hent beneath the furv of the blast, and the sturdy limbs of the trees cracked under the wei;;ht of the wiiul. (i roves were torn up ; and the spreadini^ branelu s of the trees were rent asunder, and, like leaves or stid)ble, were whirled aloft in the air. After a while the wind and rain abated. Mr. Bartram then crossed the lake, .'il)out a mile in lencrth, and arrived in safety at a plan- talion near its southern extremity. Here he found thrit nearly all the buildinirs had been o\ertnrn(.d hv tli(,' hurricaiu'; and that a hundred acres of iiulii^o ))laiUs, almost ripe for ctitting, and several acres of sugar-cancii, had been ruined. About four miles beyond this plantation, Mr. Hartrnin was shown a vast fountain of hot mineral water, wliich issued from arid^e or bank of the river, in a ijreat cove or hay. 'J'he water, thouQ,h hot and of a disa^iei abU^ hrassy and vitriolic taste, and very olfinsivc; to the smell, was perfectly transparent, and exhibited to view a prodii^ious number offish, and alligators, which were lying about the bottom. Mr. Bartram now returned, in bis canoe, to tlie sta- tion called the Upper Store. 'I'iience. in company with five persons who had been commissioned to make some coinnKM-cial arranufements with the Indians, he sit out Ii)r an Indian town called CuscuwiUa. lor tour or five «niles they travelled westward, over a level plain, which, beiore and on each side of them, appeared like a green ■\A \ if IM-. *■ '. .-i ! ;##^|K \CA) ItATlTRAM S JOURSEY FROM nipadow, thinly planted with h)w and sprcadinfj ])iMc- Ircrs. 'J'ho uhoh; surfiice st'ouied chtd witli ^^rass, herbage, and low shrubs, and with many kinds of plants, which were rare and liiL'hly interestin«ir. Here also many species of birds were seen, the plumage of some of which was extremely beautiful. Snakes, lizards, .-md insects were also very abundant. Beyond this plain was a hill, ornamented with a great variety of herba- ceous plants and grasses, and with a magnificent grove of pines. After the pine-groves were passed, the travel- lers entered a district called the Sand-hills. 'I'hey encamped, for the first night, at the Haff-tvai/ Pond. This is a lake, about three miles in circum- ference, which extends, througli an apparently spacious meadow, and beneath a chain of elevated sand-hills. It is inhabited by numerous kinds of fish, by alligators, and by a kind of t«ntks with soft shells. The latter arc so large as to weigh from twenty to thirty, and even forty pounds each. They arc extremely fat and delicious ; but, if eaten to excess, are unwholesome. Numerous herds of deer, and extensive flocks of turkeys, frequent the vicinity of tliis place. From Half-way Pond the travellers proceeded, still westward, through the high forests of Cuscowilla. 'I'ho country, for five or six miles, presented nearly the same scenery as before. After this the sand-ridges became higher, and their bases proportionally more extensive. The savanrr>hs and ponds were larger ; the summits ol" the ridges more gravelly; and here and there rocks, formed of a sort of concrete of sand and shells, were seen above the sand and gravel. Having passed an extensive and fruitful oranire- grove, through a pine-forest, and crossed two or three streams that were tributary to the river St. John, the travellers at length came within sight ol the great and beautiful Lake of' CiiscorviUa. Their course now lay througli a magnificent forest, about nine miles in extent, and consisting of orange-groves, ovrr- toj)ped by grand magnolias, palm-trees, oaks, beech, 3AVANSAI1 INTO EAST FLORIDA. 161 and other trees. This forest bounded one edifo of the lake ; and, beyond it, lay the town of Cuscuwilia, the place of their destination. Thin place is situated on the banks of a brook, which, at a little distance, falls into the lake. They were welcomed to the town, and conducted, by a party of young men and maidens, to the house of the cliiof. This stood on an eminence, and was distin- guished from the other dwellings by its superior magnitude, and by having a flag hoisted, on a high staff, at one corner. The chief, attended by several old men, came to them, and shook them by their hands, or rather their arms, (a form of salutation pteuliar to the American Indians,) saying at the same time, " You arc come." They followed him into an apartment prepared for their reception. The following customs arc practised towards their guests, by the Indians in this part of America. The pipe being lilled, it is handed round to each. After this a large bowl, containing what is called " thin drink," is brought, and is set down on a low table. In the bowl is a great wooden ladle : each person takes up in the ladle as much of the liquor as he pleases ; and, after drinking until he is satisfied, he returns it into the bowl, pushing tlie handle towards the next person in the circle ; and so it goes round. On the present occasion, after the usual compliment"? had passed, the principal trader informed the Indian chief, in the presence of his council or attendants, re- specting the purport of their business; and with this the cliief expressed his satisfaction. When the latter was informed concerning the object of Mr. Bartram's jour- ney, he received him with complaisance ; giving him unlimited permission to travel over his country, for the purpose of collecting plants, and saluting him by the name of Pug Puggi/^ or *' Flower-hunter." This chief was a tall, well-formed man, very affable and cheerful, about sixty years of age. His eyes were lively and full of lustre, his countenance was manly •1 1 \i ■ id i r, Ij? ^I . r.f.. ' i '*• 4\ J^ ! ■ ^%- fi.| ;) \ $: ifm } ' hS^U* • f^m , .,tA.. im IC'l BAUTRAM S JOURNEY FROM I and ])lacltl, yet ferocious ; his noso aquiline, and !iiv dress oxtrt mcly simj)ie ; but liis head was oimmitntcu in tlic manner of the Creek Indians. Me had been u «ireat warrior, and had now, atteudinir him as slaw -, many ».aptivcs, whicii had been taken by himself wlun youuLf. They were dressed better than he, and ser\ ril and waited upon him with siqns of tiie most ahjti t humility. The manners and customs of these Indians, wjio are called AUichnas,u\n\ of most of the lower Crech or SimiHulL'<'. apjiear evidiiitly tinctured with Spanish civilization. 'I'here are seve.al Christians amon^ tluiii, many of whom wear little silver crucilixes, allixed to a collar round their necks, or suspeiuled by a small chain upon their breasts. Mr. Ijartram and his party had not lon^ been hen, I efore the repast was brou/^ht in. This consisteil ot' %enison stewed in bears '/il, of ficsh corn-eaki^, milk, and a dish called lion ixiy; and tlie drink \\a> honey and water, very cool .md agreeable. A ft w day.; after this some ne;^oti;itions took pl.i*'.' between the traders and tlie Indians, in the pul'lic K(|i";i:^' or council-house. These ha\ iu^' terminated td the satisl'action of both parties, a baiKjuet succeedKi; the ribs and choicest f;it pieces of bullocks, well barba- cued. Were brouuht into an ap.irtment of the squan : bowls and kettles ol slewed flesh and broth constitutnl tlie next course; and uith these was brought in a dish, made ot the b( lly or paunch of an ox, n;.>t ov{ r- dcansed of its contents, cut and minced tolerably fiiu. and then made into a thin kintl of soup, and seasoiml with salt and aromatic herbs ; l)ul the seasoning \\;i> not (piite strong enougli to overpower the original taM j and smell. This is a favomite dish with the ln /•p.irtnu'uib; the cook-ioom, or coiumon iiall, aud tin H"U fcAVANNAJI INTO EAST FLORIDA. 16iJ lod^'iiifj-rooni. 'J'he oilier house is lu ;irly of tlio same ♦limcnsions, and stjinds a))out twenty yards (Voni the ii\\f'llin_£(-housc. This building is two stories hi,i,'i), and is constructed in a difFerent manner from the for- mer. Tiikc that, it is divided across: but the end next the dwellinff-liouse is o])en (;n three sides, and is siip- j)«)rted by posts or eolunms. It has an open h)ft or platform, the ascent to which is by a portable stair or ladder: tliis is pheasant, cool, and airy ; and here the jnastcr or chief ol' tlie i'amily retires to repose, iu the hot seasons, and receives his quests or vih^itors. 'J'iie other half of this buiidinir is closed on all sides : tlie lowt'st or i;ronnd part is a ])otato(-honse; and ilie up- per story u flfranary, for corn and other provisions. The town of Cuscowilla stands in an extremely pleasant situation, upon a high, swellinu^ riud covered with reeds; and iurc annually ovcrHowed, iir ..;«!^t»» ICfl Tiir. Rivm Mi3«ii3Siprr. irom the i^noltinf^ of the snows in the interior ot tlio country. 'V\\c inundation usually connnonccs in Marcli, and continues about tlucc months; and tlio shme whidi it deposits on the adjacent huuls, tends, in a very im- portant decree, to I'ertihzc tlie soil. This river is navigable to a ^reat distance; but, at sprint»;-tides, tlic iiavij.^ation is diiHcult, on accoiuit of the strength ot tlie currents, and the innumerable islands, shoals, and fand-hanks, with which it is interspersed. Vessels ot' three hundred tons burdc n can ascend it as hifrJi ,1^ Natclu'Z, lour hundred miles from the sea; and tho-^c of lijfliter burden can pass upward, as I'ar as the Falls of St. Anihony, in latitude lorty-foiu* degrees til'ty minutes. New Orleans, the ca))ita! of the state of Loui>!- ana, is s»tuat<(l on the iu)rthern bank of the Missis sippi, and is a place of threat commercial im)>orlanc'o. It was f()U)uled in the year 1717, and now con- tains near thirty thousand inhabitants. In 1787,:' liad eleven hundred houses; but, nine lunulr<(l of llu m; liaviiif; been cousunu'd by lire, it has since been rebuilt on a ve^ulju' ))lan, and a more enlavLjed scale. Mo*.! of the houses are cojistruetcd with woodm fraim-. raised about eiifht fitt IVom the yround, and have <^.i!- leries round them, and cellars under the floor; ; alniosi 4'Very house has a i^arden. Louisiana havinjr, till lalely, betMi a rreneh colony, the Fr( neh lani^Mia^e i.s still predoniinrmt at New ()r- 1; .ms. The appearance of the peo])le too is Irencli: :m(l I'Ven the neL,'roes, by their antics and IndicroiK f;estures, exhibit their ])ri'vious connexion uith that i.ation. 'I heir j>eneral manners aiul habits an- very relaxed. 1 houuh Ni'w Orlt.'ans is now a city lu- lonjjinjjf to the I'nited States, the markets, shop^, theatre, circus, and public ball-rooms, are op( 11 on Sundays, in the sanu' n.;inner as they are in t!ie caflio- lic countries ol" tjio old continent, (iambliiin-honx^, too, are numerous; and the colli-ohouses and the \.\- i'Iumr vessels, between New Orleans and the towns on the banks ol' the Mississippi, the Ohio, r.;id other rivers, in tlie distant parts of N'orth Ame- ric.!. The scenery of the Mississip])i, to the distance of one 'lundred and fifty miles and upwards, from New Or- leans, is very uninteresting. The country is a dead (lat; so tliat the banks of tlu; river, niid inos* of the ad- jacent grounds, are r.nnually overflowed. In the vicinity cl' Natchez it beeonu^s more varied and pleasing. Kdtcliez is a tow n in tlie state of Mississippi, near the banks of the river, and about four InmdnMl miles from its mouth. It contains about thirty dweiliiv^", most ot" whieh are whiskey-shops, gainl;li)iLC, nnd other houses, ''h(re an excess of profligacy ))revails, which is not ii>ual in the United States. SU. Fearon visited Natchez 'n the year IS] 7; a:i(! in the port there were tweniy-flve flats, seven i in deer, wolv(!s, bears, squirrels, racoons, and foxes ; in wild turkeys and quails ; geese and ducks, partially ; and hawks, buzzards, and pigeons in tolerable abun- (lance ; and the rivers contain several specii^s of lish. In the |)rairies there are rattlrsnakes. 'J'lu^ woodi* supply grapes, pecan nuts, (similar u> our waliuit,) aiul hickory nuts. Hops, raspberries, and strawberriei, hero grow wild. Limestone aboiuuis ; and salt, copper, and coal havi.' all been Ibund in this district. The seat ol the territorial govennnent is Ka.sknski^ t town which stand.'^ on a plain, mar the western bank of the MiMiikiippi, aud contains aboul gne hundred aiid f J vn Nv.i 'M .!*i(i»** no riKE.S VOYAGE FROM ST. LOUIS iJ fifty bouses. This place lias been settled soniewlia' more than a century, and its inhabitants are chiefly French. Some parts of the district of Illinois are oc- cupied by Indians. The other inhabitants are, firsr. what are here termed *' squatters," persons half civi- lized and half savage; and who, both in character and iiabits, are extremely wretched: second, a medley ol land-johhi.'rs, l.'iwyers, doctors, and farmers, a portion of those who traverst; this immense continent, foundiiuf settlements, and enfrat^ini; in all kinds of sj)eculatioii: and third, some old French settlers, who are ijossesscd of considerahl(> j)roperty, and who live in ease atid coin- ibrt. About seventy miles north of Kaskaski, and on tlie opposite side of till' riv(>r, is a town or lar^e villiioc, called .S7. ImhIx. It stands on a rock or bank of con- siderable h( it>ht, in a beautiful and healthy situation, and is surrouiuled by a country of exuberant fertility. 'J'he iuliabitatits of this j)lace are chieHy employed in the fur-trade, and seldom occupy themselves in agri- culture. Karrnfiveofa fot/ngc fnmi Si. Louis io the ftnurcc of of the Mississippi. Bij Zebilon Montgomi;i;y • Pike. Major Pikt, at that time a lieutenant in the American army, was employed by the government of the L'nited States, to make a survey of the Mississippi, from tin town of iSV. Louis, upwards, to its source. In pur- suance of his itistnu'tions. he embarked, in a keel-hoat. at this ])lace, on the aftenu)on of I'riday the iHh ot Aui^ust, 180.'); and was ac(()m])anied by a serjeant and sevfMiteen private sohliers of the iAnuMiciin army. As far as the mouth of the river Missouri, be says, the eastern shor(M)f the Mississi])pi consists of a sandy ■oil, and is covered with timber-trt'cs of various kiiul-- 'J'he western shore i^, for a little distance, composed ol higli land, bordircd by prairie <«• nutural mertth of August tluy passed the hou.«.e of a Frenchman, on tlu' western side of the river. fhe cattle belonging to this person appearetl to be in tine order, but liis corn-laiHl was in a bad state ot\ul- tivation. Three days afiirwaidx their bout was d;j- maged by striking against a vessel carrying tmiber nnl l^lanks down the .stream. WhUc they were engaged m Ji It «« ;|Si!<*»' 17^ I'IKE S VOYAGE FUOM 8T. LOlili* repairing it, three canoes, with liuliaiis, passed on tii. opposite side of the river. Tlie men in the cauofs cull- etl out, in Eiiglisli, " How do you do i" wishiiij^ (or an invitation to come over ; but this was not given, and they proceeded on th(.'ir voyage. Beyond Salt river the western shore ol' tlie Mississippi is hilly, but the eastcjrn side consists of lowland, tim- bered with hickory, oak, ash, maple, and other trees, The navigation here is easy, and the Koil on both sidc^ tolerably good. On the ^Oth of August the voyagers, witli great dlf ficulty, jmssetl tiie Uajntis- dcs Moinv.s'. 'i'lujse are eleven miles in extent; and, viih successive le had a heautil'ul prospect, at least ioriy miles in exhii;. down the river. Their average daily progri'ss appt al- io have h( cu I)itwi\t twciity atul thirty miles. Above the river Juira, which is one hundred atid li!:y yards wide at its mouth, the shore of the Mississippi consists of high })rairie, with yellow clay-l)aiiks. and. m some places, banks of red sand: the western shore iii.n is prairie, Imt bounded by wood. About ten miles up the Jowa is a village of Joirst, beautilul prairies, and, in .some plaics, rich land, with black walnut and hickor\ timber. On the 28th of August the vessel was much injaml in passhig up a scries oi' rapitls nearly ci^^hieen miles lii TO THE sounrE of the Mississippi. 17;i •\trnt, and, in some places, rcarhini,' IVom shore to >hore. Four days after this they arrived in the vieinitv of Koine extensive lead-mines, which heh)n;?C(l to a I ronchm.'m named I)ubM(|ne. 'I lu- only animals they had hitherto seen were a lew wild turki ys and some dccv. \'V(>m the lead-mines to Tiir/it'i/ rircr, the Mississipj)i (ontinnes nearly of the s;»me width, and the hanks, soil, and productions appear precisely similar. On the hank •t the Turkey river is a village of Rftfnard lndinn.s\ vho raise there a considerable quantity of corn. 'J'he Reynards reside in threi' villages on thc^ Mississippi, wo of which Mr. i'ike had alr.'ady past. 'I'hey grow orn, beans, and melons; and they annually sell many 'lundred bushels of corn to the inhabitants of the United Slates. On the ^d of September, Mr. Pike and some of his men landed for the purpose of shooting pigeons ; but the '.'iins wi're no sooner fired, than a party of Indians, who were on shore at a little distance, ran to the water, and 'leaped in their ]>erroques or canois, with great preci- iiitation. After this the voyaifers passed th<> mouth ol the Oiiiscy seven villages, and are supposed to be a nation who originally emi- grated from Mexico, to avoid ihe oppression of the >l)aniards. They are reputed to be brave ; but their bravery resetnbles the ferocity of tigers, rather than the 'If'liberate resolution of men. They are so treacherous 'liat, it is said, a white man should never lie down to •ilpop in their villages, without adopting the utmost cau- tion to preserve himself from injury. The Sioux are a :ji ' -y ! I- w ii IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ^ 1^ 1 2.2 Hi -- IIIIIM 1.8 U IIIIII.6 V] <^ /}. / '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 174. PIKE S VOYAGE FROM ST. LOUIS I powerful nation, the dread of whom is extended over all the adjacent country. They are divided into nu- merous bands, headed by celebrated chiefs. Few of them cultivate land ; but they chiefly live on the pro- duction of the chase, and on a kind of bread which they make from wild oats. This species of grain is hero produced in such abundance, that a sufficiency for tlieir subsistence is easily collected in the autumn, without any trouble whatever in cultivating the land. Not long after their interview with these Indians, the voyagers reached the Prairie des Chiens. The houses of this village, about eighteen in number, are arranged in two streets, along the front of a marsh. They are chiefly built of wood ; are daubed on the outside with clay, and whitewashed within. The furniture in most of them is decent, and, in those of the most wealthy in- habitants, displays a considerable degree of taste. 'J'lic Prairie des Chiens was first settled under the protection of the English government, in the year 1783; and de- rives its name from a family of Reynards, who formerly lived there, and were distinguished by the appellation of Dog Indians. It is a place of resort for Indian traders and others, who reside in the interior. Mr. Pike here engaged two interpreters to accompany him ; one of whom was to perform the whole voyage, and the other to sail with him as high as the falls of St. An- thony. On the 9th of September he had an interview with a party of Sioux Indians. When he went towards the shore to meet them, they saluted him by firing three rounds from their muskets, loaded with ball. On landing, Mr. Pike was met by the chief, and invited to his lodge. This invitation he complied with, hav- ing first stationed some of his men as guards, to pro- tect liim in case of danger. In the lodge he found a clean mat and a pillow arranged for him to sit upon ; and the complimentary pipe of peace was placed before hiu), on a pair of small crutches. The chief sate at his right hand, aud the interpreter at his left. After they TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 175 cled over into nil- Few of the pro- vhich they in is liero y for tlieir ithout any idians, the 'he houses r ranged in are chiefly with clav, most ot ealtliy in- .ste. 'J'lic protection and de- 3 formerly ippellation for Indian Mr. Pike him; one ?, and the ofSt.An^ ew with a •wards the iring three ball. On invited to with, hav- Is, to pro- B found a sit upon ; :ed before sate at his Vfter they had satisfied each other of their mutual good v/ishes, and Mr. Pike had accepted the pipe, dinner was pre- pared. This consisteil of wild rye and venison. Mr. Pike was afterwards conducted by the chief to a dance, the performance of which was accompanied by ma- ny curious gestures. iVIen and women danced indiscrimi- nately. I'hey were all dressed in the gayest manner imaginable. Each had, in his hand, a small skin of some kind of animal. They frequently ran up, point- ed their skin, and gave a puff with their breath; on which the person blown at fell, and either appeared lifeless, or in great agony ; but afterwards slowly re- covered, rose, and joined in the dance. This was un- derstood to be of a religious description; and the In- dians believed that they actually puffed, into each others bodies, something which occasioned them to liill. For persons to be permitted to take a part in these dances, it was requisite that they should make valuable presents to the society, give a feast, and be admitted with great ceremony. When Mr. Pike re- turned to his boat, he sent for the chief, and presented him with a quantity of tobacco, four knives, half a pound of vermilion, a quart of salt, and several gallons of spirits. At some distance beyond this place, Mr. Pike was sh.ewn several holes, which had been dug in the ground by the Sioux Indians. These werr, in general, of cir- cular shape, and about ten feet in diameter ; but some of them were in the form of half moons. When this people apprehend an attack from their enemies, or discover an enemy near them, they dig into the ground, with their knives, tomahawks, and wooden ladles ; and, iu an incredibly short space of time, sink holes that are sufficiently capacious to protect both themselves and their families from the balls or arrows of their foe. Though the part of the river which the voyagers were now traversing was nearly two thousand miles distant from the sea, the width of the stream was sup- posed to be at least two miles. Hi .^•''' 176 PIKE S VOYAGE FROM ST. LODI« ' i w ■ 1 i ;i :! 4 The wet season had commenced, and rain fell, in considerable quantity almost every day. In this part of his voyage, Mr. Pike was accompanied by a Mr. Frazer and two other persons, with three birch canoes. On the 16th of September, they passed the mouth of the Sauteau or Chippewa j/ river, a deep and majes- tic stream, which has a communication, by a short pas- sage, with the Montreal river, and, by this river, with Lake Superior. The shores of the Mississippi were here, in many places, bold and precipitous, forming a succession of high perpendicular cliffs and low valleys ; and they exhibited some of the most romantic and picturesque views imaginable. But this irregular scenery was sometimes interrupted by wide and ex- tensive plains, which brought to the minds of the voyagers the verdant lawns of civilized countries, and almost induced them to imagine themselves in the midst of a highly-cultivated plantation. The timber of this part of the country was generally birch, elm, and cot- ton-wood , and all the cliffs were bordered with cedars. The prevailing species of game were deer and bears. On the 21st of September, the voyagers breakfasted at a Sioux village, on the eastern side of the river. It consisted of eleven lodges, and was situated at the head of an island, just below a ledge of rocks; but the inhabitants had all left it. About two miles beyond this village, they saw three bears, swimming over the river, but beyond the reach of gim-shot. In a camp of Sioux, which they afterwards passed, Mr. Pike was astonished by the garrulity of the wo- men. At the other camps the women had not opened their lips; but here they flocked around the strangers, and talked without cessation. The cause of this free- dom is supposed to have been the absence of their hus- bands. In a spot at which the voyagers arrived *his day, the Mississippi was so narrow that Mr. Piko crossed it, in a boat, with forty strokes of his oars. I'rom the Canoe river to the St. Croix, it TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 177 l)ocomes still narrower, and the navigation is less obstructed bv islands, than below. From the Cannon river it is bounded on the east, by high ridges ; but the iel't shore consists of low ground. The timber is ireiierally ash and maple; except the cedars of the dirts, the sugar-tree, and ash. Mr. Pike this day ob- served, on the shore, a white flag, and, on landing, he discovered it to be of silk. It was suspended over a scaffold, on which were laid four dead bodies ; two en- closed between boards, and two between pieces of bark. They were wrapped in blankets, which appeared quite new; and were the bodies of two Sioux women, a child, and a relative. This is the manner in wliich the Sioux Indians bury such of their people as die a natu ral death: such as are killed, they suffer to lie un- buried. On the 23d, the voyagers arrived at the Falh Si. Anthony. These are about seventeen feet in height, and the approach to them is through rapids, which vessels have great difficulty in passing. At the foot of the falls, the voyagers unloaded their boats, which they carried up the hill, and placed and reloaded in the river above. While this process v as going on, a small party of Indians, painted black, and prepared for war, appeared on the heights. They were armed with guns, bows and arrows, clubs, and spears ; and some of them had cases of pistols. Mr. Pike was desirous of pur- chasing from them a set of bows and arrows, and one of their war-clubs, made of elk-horn, and decorated with in-laid work; but they took offence at something which occurred, and suddenly went away. The weather was now so rainy, and the men had been so much fatigued with conveying the vessels and their lading, to the upper part of the falls, that seven of the twenty-two, who accompanied Mr. Pike, were taken ill. It is hnpossible for vessels of any description, or in any state of the ri>^er, to pass up these falls. The width of the river, immediately below them, is two hiuidred and nine yards, and above them, six hundred '"* *.f r •^N, f1 :'^' m lp¥^' \.^ i'''-n' w^ 178 PIKE S VOYAOE FROM ST. LOUIS I \ and tvventy-scvcn yards. At high-water, the a])p(?ar- ance is extremely sublime; as then, the quantity ot water falling tlirows up a spray, which, in clear wea- ther, reflects, from some positions, the colours of tlu rainbow ; and, when the sky is overcast, this spray covers tl>e falls in gloom and chaotic majesty. On Tuesday, the 1st of October, Mr. Pike and his men again embarked, to proceed on their voya^rc above the falls. At first thr river was suflicientiy deep for the easy passage of the boats ; but, at the distance of about four miles, the shoals commenced, and tlicn was much difticulty in proceeding. N'^.Tily from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Rum river, the Mississippi is a continued chain of rapids, with eddies, formed by winding channels. The land, on both sides, consists of Prairie, with scarcely any timber, except small groves of scrubby oaks. Not far from this spot i'« Red Cedar lake, the grounds in the vicinity of which are considered, by the Indians, extremely valuable for hunting. In some parts of the river it was requisite for the men to wade for many successiv:: hours, in order to force tlu boats over the shoals, and draw them through the rapids. The weather was now cold and niiny. On the intli of October, in the course of four miles, the voyagers passed a cluster of more than twenty islands, wh'wh Mr. Pike called Beaver islajids, from numerous dams and paths which had been made by these animals upon them. The passage up the river was still much im- peded by rocks and shoals. About tlie beginning of October, the voyagers be- gan to look out for a station in which they could pass the winter. Mi*. Pike was determiued, if possible, to reach the Corbeau or Raven river, the highest point that had "ver been reached by traders, in bark caiuxs. But he was notable to accomplish his intention; tor, on the seventeenth, many of his men were so be- numbed with cold, that their limbs became useless, and others were laid up with illness. He consi; TO THE SOURCE OP THE JIISSISSIPPI. qiicntly fixed on a station near Pine Creek, where the borders of tlie Mississippi consisted of prairie, with proves of pine at tlie edge of the banks ; and, in some places, with oak, asli, niapk>, and lime-trees. The banks of Lake Clear, a small and beautiful lake, about three miles distant, are the resort of immense herds of elks and buttaloes; and Clear river, which unites this lake with the Mississippi, is a delightful little stream, about eighty yards wide. On the seventeenth, snow fell during the whole day: Mr. Pike killed four bears, and his hunter three deer. Several ensuing days were occu})ied in cutting down trees, for the formation of winter-huts ; and in con- structing the huts, and forming a fence round them. When the latter was completed, the two boats were hauled out of the water, and turned over, on each side of the gateways, so as to form a defence against any Indians who might be inclined to attack the encamp- ment. At this place, and in its vicinity, the voyagers con- tinued several weeks, during which they suffered great hardships. Much of their time was occupied in hunt- ing. They occasionally saw large herds of elks, some of them of immense size; the horns of the bucks mea- suring four feet and upwards in width. Many droves of buffaloes were also seen, and deer of various kinds : bears, wolves, racoons, and otters, were occasionally shot. On tlie 7th of November, the Mississippi was nearly filled with snow ; and, on the land, the snow was knee deep. Before the end of the month, the river was frozen over. During his residence at this place, Mr. Pike did not see many Indians. On one occasion he visited tlie tent or hut of an Indian chief, whom he found sitting amidst his children, and graad-children, ten in number. The hut was constructed of rushes, platted into mats. In the montli of December, Mr. Pike and some I'l t-¥^- hi m 'tf^i ilfl^jPl^* 180 PIKEb NOiAtK FROM ST. I.OUI^ of Ills men proceeded, in slcdsfcs, up tlio Mlsslsslp])], On the; tvvcnty-fourtli, tlioy reached Corheau river; which, at its month, was nearly as wide as the Missis- sippi. For a considerable distance, the Mississippi wjis interrupted by a continued succession of rapids, shoals, and falls. One of the latter, called the FalLs- of the Painted Rock, formed the third inn)orlant obstacle to the navigation of tlie river, which Mr. Pike had encountered. Most of the timber, now observed near the banks, consisted of pine-trees. On the thirty-first, Mr. Pike ])assed Pine river, Tor many miles, the Mississippi had been nnich nar- rower, and more free from islands, than in the lower [;arts of the stream. The shores, in general, presented a dreary prospect of high barren knobs, covered witli 'lead and fallen pine-timber; and most of the adjacent country was interspersed with small lakes. Deer of vari- ous kinds, were plentiful; but no buffaloes, nor elks, had been seen. Near the mouth of the Pine river, an encampment of Chippewai/ Indians was oljserved. This had been occii])ied in the summer, ])ut it was now vacant. By certain marks which had been left, the voyagers under- stood that these Indians had marched a party of fifty warriors against tlie Sioux, and had killed four men and four won)en, who were here represented by figures carved in wood. Ihe figures of the men were painted, and put into the ground, to the middle; and, by their sides, were four painted poles, sharpened at the end, to represent the women. Near this spot were polc^ with deer-skins, plumes, silk-handkerchiefs, &:c. and o circular hoop of cedar, with something attached to it wl'iich re.sembled a scalp. Beyond this place, Mr. Pike observed, on the bank of the river, six elegant bark-canoes, which had been laid up by the Chippeways, and a camp, which ajypeared to have been evacuated about ten days befor(\ After having endured considerable hardsliii> and much fatigue for some weeks lon, aceoin- plisl'.cd the objcv^t of his expedition, by arrivinjr, on the 1st of rebruary, at Leech Lake, from whieli issjies the main source of the Mississippi. He crossed this lake, (about twelve miles in width,) to an English fort, an establishment belonging to the North West Com- pany, and was there received, with grei't hospitality, l)y a Mr. Hugh .Mac Gillis. His men readied the tort on tlie sixth ; ))ut, in traversing the lake, some of fiiem had their ears, sonic their noses, and others their chins frozen. Near this place, Mr. Pike effected some arrange- ments with the Indians, which were considered ad- vantageous to the American government; and, not long afterwards, having examined the adjacent country, a^j well as the severity of the weather would permit, he set out on his return, accompanied by a deputation of Indian chiefs. The river still continued frozen, an.d the party travelled chiefly in sledges, drawn by dogs. On the 5th of March, they again reached the en- (•am])inent near Pine Creek. About a fortnight after this, Mr. Pike visited a plantation of sugar maple-trees, at a little distance tVom the creek, one of the finest he had ever seen. He was conducted to the lodge of the chief, who re- ceived him in a truly patriarchal style. This person as- sisted him in taking off his clothes, conducted him to the best part of his lodge, and offered him dry clothes. He then presented him with syrup of the maple-tree, to drink, and asked whether he preferred eating bea- ver, swan, elk, or deer? Preference being given to the first, a large kettle was filled with beavers' flesh, I'or the purpose of its being made into soup. This was iftcr wards served up; and when the repast was ended, Mr. Pike visited other lodges, at each of which he was presented with something to eat. He continued here all night; and, on the ensuing day, having pur- chased two baskets filled with sugar, he departed, and returned to his cam]). Sonic Indians, wliom Mr. Pike and his men visited r '^mr,-^ ii'ftj , ''*"'• .>*-ii^-"- I ;: ■-f«** urn ^B2 pike's voyage from ST. L0UI9 not lonj^ after this, were extremely well-formed and elegant people. 1'hey were about the middle size; and their complexions, for sava«^es, were, in j^eneral, fair: their teeth were good : their eyes were large and somewhat languishing; and they had a mild but inde- pendent expression of countenance. In the evening, these Indians entertained their visitors with the calumet and dog-dance ; and with another dance, in which some of the men struck a post, and related their war exploits. After the dance, was a feast of the dead. At this, every two or three persons had a pan or vessel full of meat set before him; a prayer was then said, and the eating commenced. Eacli was expected to devour his whole por- tion, and not to drop even a bone; for all the bones were carefully collected and put into a dish. When the eating was finished, the chief gave an exiiortation, which concluded the ceremony. About the end of March, Mr. Pike ordered the boats to be prepared for the voyage, in return, down the river. The ice had not, indeed, yet broken up; but he was every day in anxious expectation of seeing it begin to move. On the 6th of April, the river was found sufficiently clear of ice, to permit the party to re- embark. They accordingly loaded the boats, and, on the ensuing morning, experienced inexpressible joy, in leaving the savage wilderness, in which they had been so long imprisoned. On the 10th, they again reached the Fails of St. Anthony. The appear- ance of this cataract was much more tremendous than it had been when they ascended; and the great in- crease of the water occasioned the spray to rise much higher than it had done before. The river was still nearly covered with floating-ice ; and much snow con- tinued to fall. After his arrival at the Prairie ties Chicns, Mr. Pike held a council, with the Puant chiefs, respecting some murders which had been committed by the men of their nation ; and, in the afternoon, he was entertained with wfm iC' ^'r TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPl'I. 18S a (fame of '* tlic cross," between the Sioux on one side, and the Puants and the Reynards on the other. 'I'lie h.dl ns(Ml in this rriimc is made of a hard substance, and covered with leatlier. When the jjarties are ready, and the bets liave been ajfreed upon, (and tliese are .sometimes to the amoimt of several tliousand doUars,) the goals are erected on the j)rairie, about half i mile asunder. The ball is then thrown up, in tlie middle, and each party, with a kind of racket, strives to beat it to tlie opposite goal. After the first rubber is gained, nliich is done by the l)all being driven round one of the posts, it is again taken to the centre, the ijround is changed, and the contest U renewed; and this is continued vmtil one of the parties has 1)een four times victorious, on which the bets are decided. It is an interesting sight, says Mr. Pike, to behold two or three hundred naked savages contending, on ihe plain, who sliall bear off the palm of victory; for the man who drives the ball round the goal, receives the shouts of his companions, in congratulation of his success. It sometimes happens, that one of them catches the ball in his racket, and, depending on his speed, endeavours to carry it to the goal; but if he tinds himself too closely pursued, be hurls it, with jfreat force and dexterity, to an amazing distance, where there are always flankers, of both parties, ready to receive it. The ball seldom touches the ground; hut it is sometimes kept in the air, for hours, before either party can gain the victory. About ten miles above Salt river, the voyagers, on the 28th of April, stopped at some islands where there were numerous roosts of passenger pigeons; and, in about fifteen minutes, they knocked on the head, and hrought on board the boat, about three hundred. Mr. Pike, though he had frequently heard of the I'e- cundity of these birds, had never given credit to it; but, he says, that the most fervid imagination cannot conceive their numbers. The noise, which they made m the wootls, was like the continued roaring of the ii*' 18+ TTTK RIVER MISSOUUI. wind. Tlic younj( ones wcro still in their nests: those consisted oidy of small bunches of sticks; and their iiimiher was such, that all the small trees were covered with them. On the r>Oth of yXpril, after an absence of vi<^]\{ months and twenty-two days, Mr. Pike once more reached St. Louis in safety. fintmti) IDap'jef 3in0triiction. WESTERN TERRITORY OF AMERICA. The river Missouri, Previously to the commencement of the expedition commanded by Mr. Pike, the government of tlic United States had directed arrangements to be made for examining the Missouri, from its mouth to its source; thence exploring the vast and dreary range of mountains, which form the highest land in the centre of that part of the American continent; and after- wards, of descending, by some one of the rivers which flow westward, to the Pacific ocean. This formidable undertaking was committed to captains Lewis and Clarke, two officers, in the American army, who were. in every respect, qualified for the arduous duties which it re(iuired ; and who had, under their command, a party of forty-two soldiers and boatmen. Its pro- fessed object was to ascertain the possibility of open- ing an inland communication, between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans; but the American government had also in view the obtaining of information, respecting the country of Louisiana, which they were desirous of LKWtS AND CLARKE S VOYAOK 185 possessing, and which has since been ceded to them by France. Karrativc of a voyage from St. Louis to the source of the Missouri. From the travels of Captains Lkwis and Clakkl. The p.irty having rm1)arkrd in three boats, set out from St. Louis, on the Mth of May, 1S()4; and, tor several days, they jjioeceded without interruption. Early in the mornini^ oF the twenty-fourth, they as- cended a difficult rapid, called the Devifs Race-ground^ and narrowly escaped having one of their boats upset. Beyond this place, they met two canocjs, laden witli Airs, which had been eight weeks on tlieir voy.-igc* from the Mahar nation, about seven hundred miles distant. On the banks of the river was much timber, consisting of cotton-wood, sycamore, hickory, and white walnut. On the 1st of June, they passed the Uiouth of the Osage river, which falls into the Missouri, at the dis- tance of a hundred and thirty-three miles from its junction with the Mississippi. This stream gives name to a nation of Indians which inhabit its banks. The Osage Indians are, in their persons, well formed : they reside in villages, and, liaving made considerable pro- •Tress in agriculture, they seem less addicted to war than their northern neighbours. Beyond the Osage river, the southern bank of the Missouri was low, and covered with rushes; and occa- sionally with oak, ash, and walnut-trees. On the north, the land was, in some places, rich, and well adapted to agriculture. Near the mouth of Big Mani- ion Creek, the voyagers met a raft, formed of two canoes joined together. On this, two French traders were descending, from the river Kanzes : it was laden with beaver-skins, which they had collected during the winter. Not long afterwards, captains Lewis and Clarke landed, to examine a singular Umestone rock, which was nearly covered with inscriptions and i- icouth 'Mk. 186 LEWIS AND CLARKE S VOfAOi; paintings of animals ; but they found the place occu- pied by a nest of rattlesnakes, and left it. In several parts of their voyage, they passed canoes, boats, and rafts laden with furs. In many places the river was bordered with praiiies or swampy meadows, on wliich grew several kind^ of fruit, buch at? mulberries, plums, wild apples, raspber- ries, and strawberries. Numerous herds of deer were seen, pasturing in the plains, or feeding on the young willows of the river. Near tlie mouth of the Kanzes, the Missouri is about five hundred yards wide. On the south, the hills or highlands approach within a mile and half of the shore; but, on the north, they arc several miles distant ; and the country, on all sides, is fine. In some places the navigation was intcrrup'^td by sand-banks, and in others, by the remains of trees which had fallen into the water. On the second of July, the whole surface of tlie stream, for a considerable distance, was covered with drift wood. This had probably been occasioned by the giving way of some sand-bank, which had be- fore detained the wood, as it floated down the stream. The weather was now so hot that some of the men experienced from it great inconvenience ; but the air was occasionally cooled by showers. In the evenings the voyagers often landed and encamped, for the pur- pose of passing the night on shore. In that part of the river at which they arrived on the Cth, the width, from bank to bank, was about a mile; but the water was so shallow that they could perceive the remains of fallen timber scattered quite across the bottom. The Mis- souri is here wider than it is below, where the timber, which grows on its banks, resists the power of the cur- rent. On the 21 St of July the voyagers reached the mouth cf the great river Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended it for about a mile, and found the current very rapid ; • rolling over sands, and divided into several TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 1S7 channels, none of which, however, appeared to be more than five or six feet deep. At this place they encamped for several days, in order to dry their provisions, make some oars, prepare an account and make maps of the country through which they had passed. The game they saw here were chiefly deer, turkeys, and grouse; and they obtained an abundance of ripe grapes. During the nights they were much annoyed by wolves. The country behind their camp was a plain, about five nn'les in extent, one half covered with wood, and the other dry and ele- vated. Not far from this place was a settlement of the Pawnee Vidians; a race which had once been extremely numerous, but which now consisted of only four bands, comprising, in the whole, about one thousand four hun- dred persons. On the 30th of July,, the commanders of the expe- dition directed an encampment to be formed on the southern bank of the river, for the purpose of their wait- ing the arrival of the chiefs of the Ottoe Indians, with whom an interview had been appointed to take place. From an elevated station near the camp, they had a beautiful view of the river and of the adjoining country. The hunters abundantly supplied them with deer, tur- keys, geese, and beavers ; and they were well supplied with fish. A party of fourteen Oltoe and Missouri Indians^ came, at sunset, on the 2d of August, accompanied by a Frenchman who had resided among them and acted as an interpreter. The next morning an awning was formed with the mainsail of the largest vessel ; and, under this, Captains Lewis and Clarke received them. A speech was made to these Indians, announcing that the territory which they inhabited had been ceded to the American government, and advising them respecting their future conduct towards the Americans. They promised obedience, requested permission to trade witK the Americans, asked for a supply of arras, and solicited IM ^h ■\r- »(i 188 LEWIS AND CIARKES VOYAGE the mediation of the voyiigers, between them and the Mahas, with whom they w 3re then at war. The chiefs were each presented with a medal, to be worn round his neck, some paint, garters, and cloth ornaments of dress : to these were added a canister of gunpowder, a bottle of whiskey, and a few other articUjs. Not long after the ceremonies of the council had con- cluded, the voyagers again embarked, xhe hills which now extended along the river, were nearly fifteen miles asunder: those on the north were clad with a consi- derable quantity of timber; but those on the south had only some scattered trees in the ravines or narrow valleys. On the 5th of August they passed round a peninsula; and, having encamped on the north side of it, Captain Clarke, in pursuing some game, about three hundred and seventy yards from the camp, found himself at a point of the river which they had already passed, and which, by water, was distant nearly twelve miles. Some miles beyond this, on traversing a part of the country, to reach one of the Indian villages, the vege- tation was so luxuriant, that the men, who had been sent to explore it, were forced to break their way through grass, sunflowers, thistles, and other plants, more than ten feet high. This village had once con- sisted of three hundred huts ; but, about four years be- fore the voyagers were here, it had been burnt, in con- sequence of the small-pox having destroyed four hun- dred of the men, and a great number of women and children. On a hill behind the village were seen the graves of the nation. The accounts which the voyagers received of the eftects of the sm.all-pox among these Indians, were most distressing. They had been a military and a pow- erful people; but, when they saw their strength wasting before a malady which they were unable to resist, their phrenzy was extreme. They burnt their village; and many of them put to death their wives and children, in order to save them from so cruel an affliction, and that they might all go together to the unknown and better country. TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 189 A party of Otloe and Missouri Indians with whom the voyagers had an interview after tliis, were ahnost naked, having no covering, except a cloth round their middle, and a loose blanket or bulFalo robe thrown over their shoulders. In one place Captain Lewis noticed that the hills which extended to the edge of the river on the soutli side, contained alum, copperas, cobalt, (having the appearance of soft isinglass,) pyrites, and sand-stone : the two first very pure. In another clift", seven miles distant, he observed an alum rock, of dark brown co- lour, containing, in its crevices, great quantities of co- balt, cemented shells, and red earth. The appearance of these mineral substances enabled him to account for some disorders of the stomach with which his men had of late been much afflicted. They had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river inadvertently, and drinking it ; and he had now no doubt but the sick- ness was occasioned by a scum which covered its sur- face along the southern shore. Always after this the men agitated the water, so as to disperse the scum, be- fore they drank of it, and these disorders ceased. The soil of a plain over which the two commanders and some of the men walked, on the !25th, was exceed- ingly fine ; and was encumbered with but little timber, except immediately on the banks of the Missouri. They found delicious plums, grapes, and blue cur- rants. The musquitoes, and other insects which here abounded, seem, however, to have occasioned tliem some inconvenience. On tlie 29th they were joined by five chiefs and seventy men of the Yanklons, a tribe belonging to the Sioux Indians. The camps or huts of this people are of a conical form: they are covered with burtalo robes, ]>aintcd with various figures and colours, and have an aperture at llie top for the smoke to pass througli. Each hnt is calculated to contain from ten to fifteen ])ersons, and the interior arrangement is compact and liandsome: tlie kitchen or place for cooking is always dutaclied. Cap- I.\ i;:f' '^■^ ,r I9G lEWIS AND CLARKE S VOYAGE I 1 : a tain Lewis delivered to these people a speech contain- ing, as lie says, the usual advice and counsel with re- gard to their future conduct towards the government and the " great father" (as the Indians are taught to call tlie president) of the United States. He gave to the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, a laced uniform coat of the United States artillery corps, a cocked hat and a red feather; and to the other chiefs medals, tobacco, and clothing. Among the inferior men were distributed knives, tobacco, bells, tape, binding, and other articles of trifling value. After this the Indian chiefs, and Captains Lewis and Clarke, smoked together the pipes of peace. These chiefs begged the strangers to iiave pity on them, as they were very poor ; to send traders to tliem, as they wanted powder and ball : they were also anxious to be siipplied with some of " the great father's milk," by which they meant rum, or other ardent spirits. This people are stotit and well proportioned, and liave a peculiar air of dignity and boldness: they are fond of decorations, and use, for this purpose, paint, porcupine- quills, and feathers. Some of them wear a kind of necklace of white bear's claws, three inches lo)i<(, ami closely strung together round their necks. 'J'liey had among them a few fowling-pieces, but they were, in general, armed witli bows and arrows. Beyond the village of the Yanktons the country, on both sides of the river, was low, and, for the most part, destitute of timber; but, in some places, it was covered with cotton-wood, elm, and oak. The weather had been intensely hot ; but, in the beginning of September. the wind was violent, and the weather cold and rainy. On the second of this month, the hunters killed four elks, and the whole party was supplied with an abun- dance of grapes and plums, which grew wild near the river. They this day observed, on the south side of the Missouri, the remains of an ancient Indian fortification, formed chiefly of walls of earth. On the 7th of September the weather was very cold. The voyagers, this evening, encamped at the foot of j TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 191 round mountain, about three hundred feet in height, wliich, at a distance, had the appearance of a dome. In this part of the country the hunters chiefly killed elks, deer, and squirrels : and they occasionally brought in beavers, porcupines, and foxes. On the 12th they passed an island covered with timber; and they had great difficulty in struggling through the sand-bars, the water being both rapid and shallow. The weather was now becoming so cold, that it was requisite to give out flannel-shirts to the men; and several animals were killed, for the sake of their skins to cover the boats. In many places the strong current of the river had worn away the banks, to considerable extent. An interview took place, on the 25th, with some chiefs of the Tetons, a tribe of the Sioux Indians : nearly the same ceremonies and agreements were used and en- tered into, as with tlie ))receding tribes; and similar presents were made. They promised obedience to uie "great father," but tUey soon showed how little de- pendance could be placed on the promises of uncivi- lized nations. As thoy were going away, a party of them end \avoured to seize one of tlie boats, declaring that they nad not received presents enough. On being told they should receive no more, they drew their ar- rows from their quivers, and were bending their bows, when the swivel-gun in one of the boats was levelled at thorn. Perceiving from this that the most determined resistance would be made, they at length ceased from their claims. On the ensuing day these Indians approached the banks of the river, accompanied by their wives and cliildrcn, and by a great number of tlieir friends. Tlieir disj)osition now seemed friendly, and the voy- agers accepted an invitation to remain,^ during tlie nitdit, on shore, to witness a dance which was preparing for tlieir entertainment. When Captains Lewis and Clarke landed, they wcvo met by ten young men, who took each of them u[) in a robe liighly decorated, and carried him to a large coun- ,|.' s:0 «'.'»■ >ti •T1**" 19.2 LEWIS AND CLARKE H VOYAGE cil-house, where he was placed on a dressed buftalu- «kin, by the side of the grand chief. The hall or council-room was in the shape of three quarters of a circle, and covered, at the top and sides, witli skins sewed together. Under this sate about seventy men, forming a circle round the chief In the vacant pan oi the circle, between these men and the chief, tlie pipe of peace was raised, on two forked sticks, six or ciglit inches from the ground, and having the dov n of tlie swan scattered beneath it. At a little distance was a fire, at which some of the attendants were employed in cooking provisions. As soon as Captains Lewis and Clarke were seated, an old man rose up, and statintj- that he approved of what they had done, begged of tlitir visitors to take pity on them. Satisfactory assurances of amity were made by both parties ; and the chief, after some previous ceremony, held up the pipe of peace, first pointed it toward tlie heavens, then to the four quarters of the globe, and then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted it, and presented it to the stran- gers. They smoked it, and he harangued his people. after which the repast was served uj). It consisted ot the body of a dog, a favourite dish among the Sioux; to this was added a dish made of bulfalo-meat dried, pounded, and mixed raw with grease, and a kind of potatoe. Of this the strangers ate freely, but tliey could not relish the roasted dog. The party ate iun\ smoked till it was dark, when every thing was cleared away for the dance. A large fire was lighted in ilu. centre of the room, for the purpose of giving, at the same time, light and warmth. The music was partly "•/ocal and partly instrumental. The instruments con- sisted chiefly of a sort of taml)Ourine, formed of skin stretched across a hoop; and a small skin bag with pebbles in it. The women then came forward, highly decorated: some with poles in their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their enemies; and others with guns, spears, or different trophies, taken in war by their husbands, brothers, or eonnexious. Ilavinti ; hall or rters of a ,'itli skins ^nty men, nt part of le ^vipe of or eight } n of the ice was a iployed ill Lewis and id statins ed of tlicir urances of :bief, after of peace, ) the four h, made a the stran- lis people, nsisted ot he Sioux; neat dried, a kind of but they ,y ate ami as cleared ited in the |ing, at the was partly Inents con- led of skill bag witli rd, high'y on wliieii thcrs witli in war by llaviiU' TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 193 arranged themselves in two columns, one on eacli side of the fire, they danced towards each other till they met in tlie centre, when the rattles were shaken, and they all shouted and returned to their places. They had no no step, but shuffled along the ground. The music appeared to be nothing more than a confusion of noises, distinguished only by hard or gentle blows upon the skin; and the song was extemporaneous. In the pauses of the dance, any man in the company, who chose it, came forward and recited, in a sort of low gut- tural tone, some story or incident : this was taken up by the orchestra and the dancers, who repeated it in a higher strain, and danced to it. These amusements continued till midnight, when the voyagers retired on board their vessels, accompanied by four of the chiefs. In their persons these Indians were rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being peculiarly slender, their cheek-bones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same character of form, were some- what more handsome. Both sexes appeared cheerful and sprightly, but afforded many indications of being both cunning and vicious. The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, which they suffer to grow, so as to wear it in plats over the shoulders. In full dress, the principal chiefs wear a hawk's feather, worked with porcupine-quills, and fas- tened to the top of the head. Their face and body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is parted from the forehead, across the head ; at the back of which it is either collected into a kind of bag, or hangs down over the shoulders. This people seem fond of finery. Their lodges are very neatly constructed : they consist of about one hundred cabins, made of white buflfalo hides, supported on poles fifteen or twenty feet high ; and, having a larger cabin in the centre, for councils and for dances. These lodges may be taken to pieces, packed up, and carried from place to place. The beasts of burden are dogs. Some of K % m 101 LEWIS AND CLARKE S VOYAGE these Indians liad their heads shaved, and others had arrows stuck through their flesh above and below the elbow : these were indications of mourning. On Friday the 28th of September, Captains Lewis and Clarke pursued their voyage up the river ; and on the ensuing day, they passed a spot where a band of Ricara Indians had had a village, about five years be- fore: but there were now no remains of it, except a mound which encircled the town. Beyond this, the country, on the north side of the river, presented an extensive range of low prairie, covered with timber: on the south were higli and barren hills; but, afterwards, the land assumed the same character as that on the opposite side. A great number of Indians were discovered on the hills at a distance: they ap- proached the river, and proved to be Tetons, belongini,' to the band which the voyagers had just left. In the course of this day the navigation was much impeded hy logs and sand-bars. The weather was now very cold. The voyagers next passed the Chayenne river, which flowed from the south-west, and the mouth of which was four hundred yards wide. On both sides of the Missouri, near this river, are richly timbered lowlands, with naked hills behind them. In this part of the country the hunters observed a great numbers of goats, white bears, prairie-cocks or grouse ; and a species of quadrupeds described to resemble a small elk, but to have large, circular horns. For many successive days Indians were observed on tlic shores ; and, if they had been more numerous, some of them seemed inclined to molest the voyagers. On the sand-bars, which here very much obstructed the course of the river, great number of geese, swans, brants, and ducks of different kinds were seen. On the the 9th of October, the voyagers received visits from three chiefs of the Ricara Indians; and, tliough the wind was violent, and the waves ran very high, two or three squaws or females rowed off to tlitni, in little canoes, each made of a single buffalo- hers had lelow the jew is and id on the band of years be- excrpt a [gers. TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 195 skin, stretched over a frame of boughs, interwoven like a basket. These Indians did not use spirituous liquors ; and had even rejected, witli disgust, all attempts which the traders had hitherto made to introduce them : they said they were surprised that their " father," meaning the president of the United States, should present to them a liquor which would make thom fools. Captains Lewis and Clarke visited two of the villages, where they were presented with corn and beans boiled ; and also with bread made of corn and beans, '"'he K icara Indians are tall and well proportioned. The men wear skins round their legs, a cloth round their middle, and they occa- sionally have a buffalo robe thrown over their shoulders: their hair, arms, and ears, are decorated with ornaments of different kinds. The women, who are handsome and hvely, wear long shirts made of goats' skin, generally white and fringed, and tied round the waist; and, in addition to these, they have a buffalo robe dressed without the hair. The lodges of the Uicara Indians arc of a circular or octagonal form, and generally thirty or forty leet in diameter. They are made by placing forked posts, each about six feet high, round the circumference of a circle; joining these, by poles lying upon the forks ; forming a sloping roof; interweaving the whole with branches and grass, and covering it with mud or clay. Before the door there is a sort of entrance about ten feet from the lodge. This people cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, water-melons, and a species of tobacco which is peculiar to themselves. They are well armed with guns, and carry on a con- siderable traffic in furs. For many successive days the voyagers continued to see Indians every day. They had occasionally wet and unpleasant weather. In one place they saw, on the bank of the river, a great number of goats; and, soon afterwards, large flocks of these animals were driven into the river by a party of Indians, who gradually lined the shore, so as to prevent their escape, and fired on fliem, and beat them down with clubs, with so much suc- Jh- w««,-i> V O Vi''* *' ! 106 LEWIS AND CLAUKEa VOYAGE cess, that, in a short time, they killed more than fifty. Many buffaloes, elks, and deer were seen ; and a great number of snakes. On Thursday the 18th, they passed the mouth of Le Boulett or Cannon-hall river, the channel of whicli is about one hundred and forty yards wide. Thi- stream, (which is indebted for its name to a great num- ber of large stones, that are perfectly round and lie scattered about the shore and on the eminences above,) rises in the Black Mountains, and falls into the Mis- souri on the south. Great mmibers of goats were ob- served to cross the river, and direct their course towards the west. The country, in general, was level and fine, with broken, short, high grounds, low timbered mounds near the river, and a range of rugged hills at a distance. The low grounds had here much more timber than had been observed lower down the river. So numerous are wild animals in this part of the country, that the voy- agers counted, at a single view, fifty-two herds of buf- faloes, and three of elks. On the 20th the weather was so cold, that the rain which fell froze on the ground ; and, in the course of the night, the ground war, covered with snow. A Ricara chief told Captain Lewis that, at some distance up one of the rivers, there was a large rock which was held in great veneration by the Indians, and was often consulted by them, as to their own, or their na- tions' destinies; .ill of which they imagine they are able to discern, in some rude figures or paintings, witli which it is covered. The voyagers passed, on each side of the 'iver, the ruins of several villages oi Mandan Indians ; and, on an island of the river, they found a Mandan chief, who, with some of his men, was on a hunting excursion. As they proceeded, several parties ol Mandans, both on foot and on horseback, approached the shore to view them. The vessels here got aground several times, among the sand-bars and rocks. In this part of their voyage they saw two Europeans, belonging to TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. li)7 the Hudson's Bay company. These men hail arrived about nine days before, to trade lor horses and buffalo robes. From one of the villages of the Mandans, a crowd of men, women, and children, came to see the strangert. Some of the chiefs had lost the two joints of their little fingers; for, with this people, it is customary to ex- press grief for the death of relation'*, bv 'ome corporeal suffering, and the usual mode is to cut otf the joints of the little fingers. There were, in this part of the country, many Indian villages, and Captains Lewis and Clarke held, with the chiefs, a council, similar in its nature to those alreaij4| !'^« )}00 LEWIS AND CLARKE S TOTAGfi l: i hazy, and to give the appearance of two suns reflect- ing each other. On the seventeenth, the mercury in the thermometer fell to seventy-four degrees below the freezing point. The fort was completed on the day before Christmas. The Indians, inured to the severity of the climate, are able to support the rigours of the season, in a way which Captains Lewis and Clarke had hitherto consi- dered impossible. Many parts of their bodies were exposed; and one of the Indians, in particular, al- though his dress was very thin, was known to have passed the night on the snow, without a fire; and jet he did not suffer the slightest inconvenience. After having spent nearly five months in this dreary abode, the ice broke up, the boats were repaired and once more got into the river ; and other preparations were made for the voyagers to pursue their course to- wards the sources of the Missouri. In the afternoon of Sunday, the 7th of April, the ar- rangements being all completed, the party, consisting of thirty-two persons, once more embarked. They now oc- cupied six small canoes and two large perrioques. The barge was sent down the river, to the United States, with presents of natural curiosities, which had been collected, and with dispatches to the president. At some distance from Fort Mandan, the land, on each side of the Missouri, after ascending the hills near the water, exhibits the appearance of one fertile and unbroken plain, which extends as far as the eye can reach, without a soHtary tree or shrub, except in moist situations, or in the steep declivities of hills. In some parts the plains were on fire; for, every spring, as soon as the ice breaks up in the river, these plains are set on fire by the Indians, for the purpose of driv- ing out and attacking the buffaloes, and other wild animals which inhabit them. Beavers were here very abundant. A herd of antelopes, and the track of a large white bear, were seen in the plain: geese and TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. QOl swans were observed, in great numbers. The musqui- toes now began to be very troublesome. Before the middle of Apri', the weather became so warm, that, in the day-time, the men worked with no clothes on, except round their waist. On the twelfth, the voyagers reached the mouth of the Little Missouri^ where they remained during the day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. This river falls into the Missouri, on its south side, and at the distance of sixteen hundred and ninety-three miles above its con- fluence with u.c Mississippi. Its current is strong, and its width a hundred and thirty-four yards; but its greatest depth is only two feet and half. The adja- cent country is hilly and irregular; and the soil is, for the most part, a rich dark-coloured loam, intermixed with a small proportion of sand. On the thirteenth, the voyagers passed the remains of forty-three temporary lodges, which were supposed to have belonged to the Assiniboin Indians. The waters of many of the creeks were found to be so strongly impregnated with mineral salts, that they were not fit to be drunk. On each bank of the Missouri the country presented the appearance of low plains and meadows; bounded, at the distance of a few miles, by broken hills, which end in high, level, and fertile lands : the quantity of timber was increasing. In the timbered-grounds, higher up the river, the voyagera observed a great quantity of old hornets' nests. Many of the hills exhibited a volcanic appearance, furnishing great quantities of lava and pumice stone: oi the lat- ter, several pieces were observed floating down the river. In all the copses there were remains of As- siniboin encampments. On the twentieth, near an Indian camp, the voyagers observed a scaffold, about seven feet high, on which were two sleds, with their harness; and under the scaffold was the body of a female, carefully wrapped in several dressed buffalo-skins. Near it lay a bag, made of buffalo-skin, and containing some articles of K 3 1' J-!..| i-l; %ii l!<* Oi' 202 LEWIS AND CLARKE S VOYAGE apparel, scrapers for dressing hides, some dried roots, plats of sweet grass, and a small quantity of tobacco. These, as well as the body, had probably fallen down by accident, as it is customary to place the dead bodies on scaffolds. At a little distance was the body of a dog, not yet decayed : he had, no doubt, been employed in dragging, in the sled, the body of his mistress, and, according to the Indian usage, had been sacrificed to her. From the sand-bars in the river, the wind sometimes blew such vast quantities of sand into the air, as to appear iike clouds, and even to conceal the opposite bank Crom view. These clouds of sand floated, like columns of thick smoke, to the distance of many miles ; and the particic^* were so penetrating, that nothing could be kept free from them. Near the junction of Yellowstone river with the Missouri, the country was much more woody than it had been in any other part, since the voyagers had passed the Chayenne; and the trees were chiefly of cottou-wood, elm, ash, box, and alder. In the low grounds were rose-bushes, the red-berry, service- berry, red-wood, and other shrubs; and among the bushes on the higher plains, were observed willows, gooseberry-trees, purple currant-trees, and honey- suckles. The sources of Yellow-stone river are said to be in the Rocky Mountains, near those of the Mis- souri and the Platte; and this river is navigable, in canoes, almost to its head. Near the junction of the Yellow-stone and Mis- souri rivers, there is a high plajn, which extends three miles in width, and seven or eight miles in length; and which Captain Lewis says might be rendered a very advantageous station for a trading establish- ment. Beyond this place, the hills were rough and higli, and almost overhung the river. As the voyagers ad- vanced, the low grounds were fertile and extensive, witli but little timber, and that cotton-wood. On the TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 203 3(1 of May, they readied the month of a river, wliicli, from the unusual number of porcupines that were seen near it, they called Porcupine river. For several day.s lifter this, they continued tiicir projjress without much mterruption. In many places the river was, at least, half a mile wide. During their excursions on the shore, in pursuit of food, they encountered many perils in shooting at bears. Some of these were of vast '.ize and strength : one of them weighed nearly six hundred pounds, and measured eight feet seven inches and a Jialf, from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet. Beyond the Muscle-shell river, which the voyagers reached on the 21st, the shores of the Missouri were abrupt and bold, and composed of a black and yellow clay. After a navigation of two months, and a progress of more than a thousand miles i'roin tlieir winter camp, the party became considerably embarrassed, at die conflux of two rivers, which were, a})parentlv, of equal magnitude. It was important for them to decide which of the streams in question was the true Missouri; because the river, which it was their object to ascend, was described to be at no great distance from the head waters, running, from the opposite side of the Rocky Mountains, towards the Pacific ocean. Two canoes, with three men, were consequently dis- patched, to survey each of these doubtful streams ; and parties were sent out by land, to discover, if possi- ble, from the rising grounds, the distant bearings of the lofty ranges of mountains, which were conspicu- ous in the west; and some of which, though it was now the month of June, were covered with snow. Hence, theie was no doubt of their vicinity to the great central ridge of American mountains; but the direction of the rivers just mentioned, could not be distinguished to any considerable distance. Of the two, the one coming from the north, had the brown colour and thick appearance of the Missouri; while the southern river had a rapid current, a pebbly bed. J\\ • ^^ii % :S..i ■(■ ■! \'yr Z04, LEWIS AND Clarke's voyage and transparent water, as if it issued from a mountain- ous country. The resemblance of the former to the river already navigated, led nearly all the privates of the party to consider it as the Missouri ; but the clearness of the other stream induced the two captains to the conclusion that it proceeded from those central mountains, which were the grand objects of their search. After a further investigation, they resolved to pursue the course of the latter. It was, however, requisite to make a deposit of all the heavy baggage, that could possibly be spared, as the increasing shallowness of the water would soon ren- der the navigation much more laborious than it had hitherto been. They accordingly adopted a plan, com- mon among traders who bring merchandise into tlie country of Indians of doubtful integrity, that of dig- ging a hole in the ground, small at the top, but widen- ed in the descent, somewhat like the shape of a ket- tle. Choice was made of a dry situation; and the sod, being carefully removed, the excavation was com- pleted, a flooring of wood and hides was laid at the bottom, and the goods were covered with skins: tlie earth was then thrown into the river, and the sod laid on again with so much care, that not the slightest ap- pearance remained of the surface having been dis- turbed. These arrangements being completed, Captain Clarke took charge of the canoes; while captain Lewis, with four men, proceeded by land, in hopes of soon putting it beyond a doubt that the river which they were now ascending was the Missouri. The decisive proof was to be sought in its falls, which the Indians had de- scribed as not remote from the Rocky Mountains, and as of remarkable grandeur. Captain Lewis passed along the direction of the river, during two days, and, on the next day, found himself in a position wliich overlooked a most beautiful plain. Finding that the river here bore considerably to the south ; and fearful of passing the falls before he reached TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 205 ountam- r to the privates but the captains e central ir search. :o pursue sit of all pared, as soon ren- n it had Ian, com- into tlie t of dig- ut widen- of a ket- 1 the sod, vas com- lid at the kins: the sod laid rhtest ap- jeen dis- lin Clarke wis, with 1 putting were now roof was had de- ountains, ris passed ays, and, 3n which )ly to the reached tlie Rocky Mountains, he now changed his course to- wards the south, and, leaving these hills to the right, proceeded across the plain. In this direction he had gone about two miles, when his ears were saluted T/ith the agreeable sound of a fall of water ; and, as he advanced, a spray, which seemed to be driven by the high south-west wind, arose above the plain, like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. To- wards this point he directed his steps ; and the noise, increasing as he approached, soon became too tremend- ous to be mistaken for any thing but the Great Falls of the Missouri, Having travelled seven miles after he first heard the sound, he at length reached the falls. The hills became difticult of access, and were two hun- dred feet high. Down these he hurried with impa- tience; and, seating himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls, he enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object; which, since the creation of the world, had been lavishing its magnificence on the desert, unknown to civilization. For ninety or a hun- dred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one smooth, even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid current; but, being received, as it falls, by the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below, it forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam, two hundred yards in length, and eighty yards in perpendicular elevation. This spray is dis- sipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in columns fifteen or twenty feet high; and then being oppressed by larger masses of white foam, which ex- hibit all the brilliant colours of the rainbow. On the 14th of June, one of the men was sent to Captain Clarke, with an account of the discovery of the falls; and Captain Lewis proceeded to ex- amine the rapids above. From the falls, he directed his course, south-west, up the river. After passing one continued rapid, and three small cascades, each three or four feet high, he reached, at the distance of I .It 4i : 1 ; .Ii 20G LEWIS AND CLARKE S VOYAGE r II ■ 1151 five miles, a second fall. Above this, the river bends suddenly towards the north. Here captain Lewis heard a loud roar above him ; and, crossing the point of a hill, for a few hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature: the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which, with- out a single niche, and with an edge as straight and regular as if formed by art, stretches from one side of the river to the othei', for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this, the water precipitates itself, in an even, uninterrupted sheet, to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet; whence, dashing against the rocky bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a spray of the purest foam. The scene here presented was indeed singularly beautiful; since, without any of the wild, irregular, sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular elegancies which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful cataract. Captain Lewis now ascend- ed the hill which was behind him, and saw, from its top, a delightful plain, extending from the river to tlie base of the Snowy Mountains. Along this wide, level country, the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water, to its even and grassy banks ; while, about four miles above, it was joined by a large river, flowing from the north-west, through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished by the timber which adorned its shores: the Missouri itself stretched to the south, in one unruffled stream of water ; and bearing on its bo- som vast flocks of geese, while numerous herds of buflTaloes were feeding on the plains which surround it. Captain Lewis then descended the hills, and directed liis course towards the river. Here he met a herd of at least a thousand buffaloes; and, being desirous of providing for his supper, he shot one of them. The animal immediately began to bleed ; and the captain, having forgot to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when he beheld a large brown bear, cautiously approaching him, and already within twenty TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSOURI. 207 yards. In the first moment of surprise, lie liftod his rifle; but, recollecting that it was not charged, and that he had no time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in flight. He was in an open, level plain ; not a bush nor a tree was within three hundred yards of him ; and the bank of the river was sloping, and not more than three feet hisfh, so that there was no possible mode of concealment. Captain Lewis there- fore thought of retreating, in a quick walk. He did so, but the bear approached, open mouth and at full speed, upon him. He ran about eighty yards; but finding that the animal gained on him fast, he plunged into the river, about waist deep, and, then facing about, presented the point of an cspontoon or kind of spear, which he had carried in his hand. The bear arrived at the water's edge, within twenty feet of him ; but, as soon as the captain put himself in this posture of defence, the animal seemed frightened, and, wheel- ing about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. With respect to Captain Clarke, he and his canoes ad- vanced up the river, but they proceeded very slowly ; for the rapidity of the current, the number of large stones, and the numerous shoals and islands, greatly im- peded their progress. After they had passed a stream, to which he gave the name of Maria's river, they redoubled their exertions. It, however, soon became necessary for them once more to lighten the canoes. They did so, and filled another hole, with a portion of their provisions and ammunition. On the 29th of June, Captain Clarke left the canoes, and went on to the falls, accompanied by a black ser- vant, named York, an Indian and his wife, with her young child. On arriving there, they observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, whicli threatened rain. They therefore looked around for sheltor, but could find no place where they would be secure from being blown into the river, if the wind should prove as vio- lent 29 it sometimes does in the plains. At length, ^ ;!i./! m't ■1.^7 '-I m ■v..i> 1; ' Is,;! I 1 it'i' 203 LEWIS AND CLARKE S VOYAGE i about a quarter of a mile above the falls, tlicy found a deep ravine, where there were some shelving rocks; and under these they took refuge. Being now per- fectly safe from the rain, they laid down their guns and compass, and the other articles which they had brought with them. The shower was, at first, mode- rate; but it increased to a heavy r.iin, the effects of which they did not feel : soon afterwards, a torrent of intermingled hail and rain was poured from the clouds: the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass; and, collect- ing in the ravine, it came rolling down, like a cataract, carrying along with it mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed it. Captain Clarke saw the torrent a moment before it reached them; and, springing up, with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, he, with his right, clambered up the steep cliff*, pushing on be- fore him the Indian wdman, with her child in her arms. Her husband, too, had seized her hand, and was drag- ging her up the hill ; but he was so terrified at tlie danger, that, but fov Captain Clarke, himself and his wife and child would have been lost. So instantane- ous was the rise of the water, that before Captain Clarke had reached his gim, and had begun to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist ; and he could scarcely get up faster than it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet. Had they waited a moment longer, it would have swept them all into the river, just above the great cataract, down which they must inevitably hive been precipitated. They had been obliged to escape so rapidly, that Captain Clarke lost his compass and umbrella : the Indian left his gun, shot-pouch, and tomahawk; and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before the net, in which it had lain at her feet, was carried down tlie current. After the storm was over, they pr ceeded to a foun- tain, perhaps the largest in America. It is situated in a pleasant, level plain, and about twenty-five yards TO THE SOURCE OF Til£ MISSOURI. HOO (torn the river, into which it falls over some steepi irregular "ocks. In this part of the country a remarkable phenome- nomcnon was noticed. A loud report, precisely re- sembling the sound of a cannon, was repeatedly heard from the mountains, at different times, both of the day and night; sometimes in one stroke; at others, in five or six successive discharges. This report was occa- sionally heard when the air was perfectly still and with- out a cloud ; and it was supposed to be occasioned by the bursting of rocks. The party, continuing indefatigable in their exertions, dragged the canoes, or pushed them alongwith poles, up the current of the Missouri. This they did, day after day, until the 27th of June, when they arrived at the Three forks of the river; that is, at the point at which three rivers, each of considerable size, flow together, and form the great stream. As it was difficult to deter- mine the largest of the three. Captains Lewis and Clarke decided on discontinuing here the appellation of Missouri ; and named the streams, respectively, Jeffer- son's, Madison's, and Gallatin's river. As the first of these flowed from the west, they ascended it in pre- ference to the others; but they continued to experi- ence great difficulty with the canoes, in consequence of the rapidity of the current. They were now approaching the termination of the first great division of their journey. The river con- tinued to lessen as they proceeded : its width, in the part at which they arrived on the 8th of July, was not more than forty yards; and, on the 11th, it was dimi- nished to twelve, so as to admit of being waded over without hazard. They had now proceeded, by com- putation, three thousand miles from the mouth of the Missouri; and they, not long afterwards, reached its extreme navigable point, in latitude 43 degrees 30 minutes, and nearly in longitude 112 degrees west from Greenwich. Here they laid up their canoes, until they should m \ t^m !'' ''HJf 210 LEWIS AND CLARKk S TRAVELS FKOM return from the Pacific ocean ; and, proceeding l)y land, had the ^^ratification of tracing the current to its Jountain hcad^ in the midst of tlic Rocky Mountains. ^cbenteentl) Dap'jef JnatxMimi WESTERN TERRITORY CONTINUED. Narrative of Lewis and Clarke's Travels from the Source of the Mixsouri to the Pacific Ocean, From the source of the Missouri, we will now accom- pany these gentlemen in their journey across tiie Rocky Mountains, and in tlieir subsequent naviga- tion of the Oregan or Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. They had reached the highest ground in the Rocky Mountains^ or that elevated part of tlie continent wiiich constitutes the boundary between the streams flowing to the Atlantic on the one side, and the Pacific on tlie other. Their next object was to prosecute their journey westward, through this cold and barren track, until they should come to a navigable stream flowing into the Columbia, the great channel of access to the western ocean. They had been told, by Indians in theMandan country, that, immediately on crossing the central ridge, they would discover copious rivers running in a direction to- wards the Columbia. Captain Lewis accordingly found a clear stream forty yards wide, and three feet deep, which ran towards the west. It was bounded on each side by a range of high mountains, and was so closely confined between them, as not only to be unnavigable, but to be impassable along its banks. A still more dis- couraging circumstance was the total want, in tliis wintry region, of timber fit for building canoes. THE MISSOURI TO THE PACIFIC OCKAN'. 11 An old Indi bcii ilted rrspectin^ tli consul mountains, stated them to be so inaccessible, that neither he nor any of his nation had ever attempted to cross ihem; and another Indian, a native of the soutli-wcst mountains, descril)ed tliem in terms scarcely less terrific. Tiie course to the Pacific lay, he said, alonjif rocky sleeps, inhabited by savages, who lived in holes, like bears, and fed on roots and on horse-Hcsh. On de- scending from the mountainous ridge, he stated that tiie traveller would find himscvlf in a parched desert of sand, where no animals, of a nature to at!ord subsis- tence, could be discovered ; and, altliou i ;i »■ m ]^\ t I I '•■m *v /* V lEwis AND Clarke's travels from wooden buildings. The floors were sunk about, six feet in the ground, a custom implying at the same time a cold and dry climate. Proceeding on their way, they saw an Indian, dress- ed in a round hat and a sailor's jacket, with his hair tied. Jackets, brass kettles, and other European or American articles, were observed to be common. These Indians are fond of ornamenting their boats and houses with rude sculptures and paintings. One of the chiefs exhibited, from what was called his great medicine- bag, fourteen fore-fingers, the trophies taken from as many enemies, whom he had killed in war. This was the first time that the travellers had known any other trophy preserved than the scalp. The great medicine- bag, among these Indians, is an useful invention; for, as it is deemed sacrilegious for any person, except tlie owner, to touch it, tliis bag serves the purpose of a atrong-box, in which the most valuable articles may safely be deposited. The Echeloots in their mode of sepulture, differ mucli from the generality of North American Indians. Tlicy have common cemeteries, where the dead, carefully wrapt in skins, are laid on mats, in a direction east and west. The vaults, or rather chambers, in whicli the bodies are deposited, are about eighty feet square, and six in height. The whole of the sides are covered with strange figures, cut and painted; and wooden images arc placed against them. At the top of these sepulchral chambers, and on poles attached to them, brass-kettles are hung, old frying-par>s, shells, skins, and baskets, pieces of cloth, hair, and other simi- lar offerings. Among some of the tribes, the body is (aid in one canoe and covered with another. Every where the dead are carefully deposited, and with like marks of respect. Captain Clarke says it is obvious, from tiio different articles which are placed by the dead, that these people believe in a future state of existence. On the 2d of November, the travellers perceived THE MlSSOUai TO THE rAClFIC OCEAN. tlie first tide -water ; four clays afterwards, they luid the pleasure of hearini^ a few words of English, spbkea by an Indian, who talked of a Mr. Haley, as the prin- ciple trader on the coast; and, on ti;e 7th, a fog clear- ing off, gave them a sight of the Vacific Ocean. They suffered great hardships near the mouth of the river. At one place, where they were detained two nights by the violence of the wind, the waves broke over them, and large trees, which the stream had carried along with it, were drifted upon them, so that, witli their utmost vigilance, they could scarcely save the canoes from being dashed to pieces. Their next haven was still more perilous: the hills rose steep over their heads, to the height of five hundred feet; and, as the rain fell in torrents, the stones, upon their crumbling sides, loosened, and came rolling down upon them. The canoes, in one place, were at the mercy of the waves ; the baggage was in another place ; and the men were scattered upon floating logs, or were sheltering them- selves in the crevices of the rocks. The travellers, having now reached the farthest limits of their journey, once more began to look out for win- ter-quarters. But it was not till after a long search, that they discovered, at some distance from the shore, and near the banks of the Columbia, a situation in all respects convenient. But so incessant was the rain, tliat they were unable to complete their arrangements, till about the middle of December. Here, in latitude 4G degrees, 19 minutes, they passed three months, without experiencing any thing like the cold of the in- terior ; but they they were, in other respects, exposed to numerous inconveniences. The supply of food was precarious ; being confined to tho fish caught along tlie sea-coasts, and to a few elks and other animals, which were killed in the adjacent country. The Indians, in this part of America, had been ac- customed to traffic, along the shore, with European vessels, and had learned to ask exorbitant prices for th^ir commodities. Their circulating money consisted FTt ';**., •■ I '•'*••' t'*i.i ■^\- '^^2 IF.WIS AND CLARKE S TRAVELS FHOM H hh II 11 1 ' ^I^^bH ■1 '11 iiiil 1 of blue beads; but with these, as well us with other merchandise, their visitors were, at this time, very scan- tily supphed. These Indians were unacquainted with the use of ardent spirits, but they were no strangers to the vice of gaming. During the winter, Captains Lewis and Clarke occu- pied much of their time in acquiring information con- cerning the country ; and obtained some account of the number of tribes, languages, and population of the in- habitants, for about three hundred and sixty miles southward, along the coast; but of those in an opposite direction, they were unable to learn any thing more than their names. The people of the four nations with whom they had the most intercourse ; the Killamucks, Clatsops^ Chin- noocks, and Cathlamahs^ were diminutive and ill-made. Their complexions were somewhat lighter than those of the other North American Indians: their moutlis were wide, their lips thick, and their noses broad, and generally flat between the eyes. All the tribes who were seen west of the Rocky Mountain, have their foreheads flattened. The child, in order to be thus beautified, has its head placed in a kind of machine, wh 3re it is kept for ten or twelve months ; the females longer than the males. Tlie operation is gradual, and seems to give but little pain ; but if it produces head-ache, the poor infant has no means of making its sufferings known. The head, when released from its bandage, Captain Clarke says, is not more than two inches thick, about the upper part of the forehead; and still thinner above. No- thing can appear more wonderful, than that the brain should have its shape thus altered, without any appa- rent injury to its functions. There is an extensive trade carried on upon the Co- lumbia, which must have existed before the coast was frequented by foreign traders ; but to which the foreign trade has given a new impulse. The great emporium of this trade is at the falls, the Shilloots being the car- Tnr MISSOURI to the pacific OCTIAV. 32i{ Jth other 'ery scan- ned with angers to rke occu- ition con- mt of the f the in- :ty miles 1 opposite ing more they had OS, Chin- ill-made. lan those • mouths oad, and Rocky 'he chikl, )laced in 3r twelve s. The tie pain ; t has no le head, ke says, le upper e. No- ;he brain ly appa- the Co- oast was ! foreign iporium the car- riers between the inhabitants above and l)elow. The Indians of the Rocky Mountains bring down boar's- jrrcase, horses, and a few skins, which they exchange for beads, pounded fish, and the roots of a kind of water-plant, which are produced, in great abundance, in a tract of land between the Multomah and a branch of the Columbia. The mode of obtaining these roots is curious. A woman carries a canoe, large enough to contain her- self, and several bushels of them, to one of the ponds where the plants grow ; she goes into the water breast high, feels out the roots with her feet, and separates the bulbs from them with her toes. These, on being freed from the mud, float. The women often continue in the water at this employment for many successive hoursi even in the depth of winter. The bulbs are about the size of a small potato, and, when roasted in wood ashes, constitute a palatable food. These Indians are a very ingenious race. Even with their own imperfect tools, they make, in a few weeks, a canoe, which, with such implements, might be thought the work of years. A canoe, however, is very highly prized : it is considered of equal value with a wife, and is what the lover generally gives a father in exchange for his daugh- ter. The bow and stern are ornamented with a sort of comb, and with grotesque figures of men or animals, sometimes five feet high, composed of small pieces of wood, skilfully inlaid and morticed, without a spike of any kind. Their bowls or troughs are scooped out of a block of wood ; in these they boil their food. Their best manufacture is a sort of basket, of straw-work or cedar bark, and bear-grass, so closely ii.terwovcn as to bo water-tight. Further south the natives roast their corn and pulse over a slow charcoal-fire, in baskets of this description, moving the basket about in such manner that it is not injured, though every grain within it is completely browned. Among these Indians the women are well treated, and enjoy an extraordinary degree of influence. On many subjects their opinions are consulted: in matters ■•I ,I3<.M««'« ^.! I • ;■* LEWIS AST) CLARKE S RETURN FRO^i of trade, their advice is generally asked and pursiufl Sometimes they even take upon themselves a tone ol authority ; and the labours of the family arc almost equally divided. No account is given by Captain Lewis <»f the superstitions of these people; and no inquiry seems to have been made concerning their religious belief. ,(ii! Narrative of the return of Captains Lewis and Clarki. Jwm the Pacific Ocean to St. Lotus. The commanders of the expedition were desirous ot remaining on the coast of the Pacific till the arrival ol' the annual trading ships, hoping from them to be able to recruit their almost exhausted stores of merchandise; but, though these were expected in April, it was found impossible to wait. The elks, on which they chieHy depended for subsistence, hud retreated to the moun- tains ; and, if the Indians could have sold them food, they were too poor to purchase it. The whole stock of goods, on which they had to depend, for the purchase of horses and food, during a journey homeward, ot* nearly four, thousand miles, was so much diminished, that it might all liave been tied in two pocket-handker- chiefs. Their muskets, however, were in excellent order, and they had plenty of powder and shot. On the 23d of March, 1806, the canoes were loaded, and they took a final leave of their encamp- ment. Previously to their departure;, they deposited, in the hands of the Indian chiefs, some papers specifying the dates of the arrival and departure of the expedition. This was done in a hope that at least some one of them might find its way into a civilized country. The course homeward was, during the first month, by water; the canoes being dragged, or carried overland, in places where the current of the Columbia was too strong to be navigated. On these occasions, the travellers were ex- posed to much annoyance from the pilfering habits of the Indians; and their provisions were so scanty that THE PACIFIC OCEAN TO ST. LOUIS. tlicy were obligod to su])sist on doir's-flcsl) : a diet wliicli, at lirst, was extremely loailisome to them, but to which they in time became reconciled. The difticulties of the navigation made it expedient for them to leave the canoes at some distance below the junction of the Columbia with Lewis's- river, after which they prosecuted their journey on horsijback. Proceeding in an easterly direction, they arrived, on the seventh of May, within siglit of i\\c Rocfiy Monti" tains, and saw the toj)s of tlu'se mountains completely covered with snow. Anxious, however, to cross them as early as they could, they lost no time in recovering tlieir horses from the Chopunnish Indians, and in ex- tracting their stores from the hiding places in the ground. Still it was necessary for them to encamp for a few weeks, that they might occu[)y themselves in hunting, and that the health of the invalids might be reinstated. Here Captains Lewis and Clarke practised physic among the natives, as one means of supplying them- selves with provisions. Their stock of merchandise was reduced so low, that they were obliged to cut off the buttons from their clothes, and to present them, with phials and small tin boxes, as articles of barter with the Indians; and, by means of these humble com- modities, they were enabled to procure some roots and l)read, as provision during their passage over the Uocky Mountains, which they commenced on the tenth of June. Towards the middle ^f June the fall of the rivers showed that the great body of snow on the mountains was at last melted; and they ventured to leave their encampment, against the advice of several of the Indi- ans. They, however, soon found that they had been premature in their motions ; for, on the higher grounds, there was no appearance whatever of vegetation. The snow, which covered the whole country, was indeed sufficiently hard to bear the horses, but it was still ten or twelve feet deep ; so that a further prosecution of •■;^ ^>H\\ 22G LEWIS AND Clarke's return from ; thoir journey w.ns, at present, impossible; and the tra- vellers, after having deposited, in this upper region, their baprgage, and such provisions as they could sparo, reluctantly traced back their steps to the plain. Then they remained ten days; and, on the 2()th, they again began to ascend the lofty ridge; the snow on which had, in the interval, melted nearly four feet, leaving still u depth of six or seven. They now implicitly followed the steps of their guides, who traversed this trackless re- gion with a kind of instinctive sagacity : these men never hesitated respecting the path, and were never em- barrassed. In three days they once more reached tlio stream which, in their former journey, they had named Traveller's Rest Creek. Here Captains Lewis and Clarke agreed to separate, for the purpose of taking a more comprehensive sur- vey of the country in their journey homeward. It was considered desirable to acquire a further knowledge of the Yellow-stone, a large river which flows liom the south-west, more than one thousand iles before it reaches the Missouri ; and it was of i tance to as- certain, more accurately than they had hitherto done, the course of Maria's river. The separation took place on the Sd of July ; and Captain Lewis, holding on an eastern course, crossed a large stream which flowed towards the Columbia, and which had already been named Clarke's river. On the 1 8 th of July he came to Maria's river, the object of his search ; and he continued for several days, his route along its northern bank. After having ascertained the course of this river, he again set out on his journey homeward, that he might not lose the opportunity of returning be- fore the winter. He and his companions were only four in number ; and, in one part of their journey, they had an alarming intercourse with a party of Indians. Not very long after this they embarked on the Missouri; and, with the aid of their oars and the current, they proceeded at ihe rate of between sixty and eighty miles a day. On Pi V( n di ar T THE PACIFIC OCEAN TO ST. I.Ol'IS. ^zn the tiri- r region, lid sparo, . ThciT icy again Inch had, ig still a lowed till' ■kless ro lese men icver em- iched tlu' id named separate, isive sur- . It was vledge of iVom the before it ice to as- ;rto done, uly; and crossed a ibia, and II the 18 th is search ; along its course of jmeward, rning be- number ; alarming ^ery long md, with ceeded nt lay. On the 7th of August they reacliod the mouth of the YeUoW'Stmic river^ the place of rendezvous, appointed with Captain Clarke. Here, by a note stuck upon a pole, they were informed that he had accomplished his voyage along that river, and would wait for them lower down the Missouri. Captain Clarke, on quitting the central encampment at Traveller s Rest Creek, had marched in a southerly direction, and had traversed a distance of one hundred and sixty-four miles, to the head of Jefferson's river. This journey was performed, on horseback, and in six days, over a country by no means difficult; so that, in future, the passage of this elevated region will be di- vested of a considerable portion of its terrors. He also discovered that the communication between the Upper Missouri and the 1 ellom-stonc nuer, was at- tended with little trouble; for Gallatin's river, one of the tributary streams of the Missouri, approaches within eighteen miles of the Yellow-stone, and, at a place, where the latter is completely navigable. Being unable to find wood of sufficient magnitude for the formation of canoes, Captain Clarke and his men were obliged to proceed on horseback, about one hundred miles down the side of this river. At length they succeeded in constructing boats, and sailed down the reiTfiainder of this stream with great rapidity. On the 27th, at the distance of two hundred miles from the Rocky Mountains, they beheld that elevated region for the last time. The Yellow -stone being easy of navi- gation, they reached the place of rendezvous earlier than they had expected. The whole party being now assembled below the conflux of the Yellow-stone and Missouri rivers, they prosecuted the remainder of their voyage together ; ex- periencing, in the prospect of home, and in the ease with which they descended the river, a compensation for all their fatigues ; and receiving the visits of various tribes of Indians who resided upon its banks. The greatest change which was experienced by them, ..^. 'ii< Nf Df 28 PIKES JOURITEV ynOM in their FOuthward progress, was that of cli- mate. They had passed nearly two years, in a cool, open country, and they were now descending into wooded plains, eight or ten degrees further to the south, but differing in heat much more than is usual in a correspondent distance in Europe. They were like- wise greatly tormented by musquitoes. On landing at La Chan-ette, the first village on this side of the United States, they were joyfully received by the inhabitants, who had long abandoned all hopes of their return. On the 23d of September they descended the Mississippi to St. Lmiis, which place they reached about noon; having, in two years and nine months, completed a journey of nearly nine thousand miles. At St. Louis we shall resume the narrative of Mr. Pike, who, in the month of July, 1806, set out from that place on an expedition westward, through the im- mense territory of Louisiana, towards New Spain. The chief objects of this expedition were to arrange an amicable treaty between the Americans and Indians of this quarter ; and to ascertain the direction, extent, and navigation, of two great rivers, known by the names ol Arkansaw and Red River. Cifiljteentl) lDap*0 Jiwrruction. WESTERN TERRITORY CONCLUDED. Narrative of Mr, Pike's Journey from St. Louis, through Louisiana, to Santa Ft; New Spain. The party engaged in this expedition, were Mr. Pike and another lieutenant, a surgeon, a Serjeant, two corpo- rals, sixteen private soldiers, and one interpreter. ST. LOUIS TO SANTA PK. They had, under their charcjc, some chiefs of the Osage and Pawnee nations, who, witli several women and chil- dren, had been redeemed from captivity, and now, to tiie number of fifty-one, were about to be restored to their friends. They set out from St. Louis on the loth of July, 1806, and proceeded, in two boats, up the Missouri. About six miles from the village of St. Charles, they passed a hill of solid coal, so extensive that it would pro- bably afford fuel sufficient for the whole population of Louisiana. Mr. Pike says that, every morning, he was awaked by the lamentations of the savages who accompanied him. These invariably began to cry about day-light, and continued to do so for an hour. On enquiry re- specting th's practice, he was informed that it was customary, not only with persons who had recently lost their friends ; but also with others who called to mind the loss of some friend, dead long before. Thoy seem- ed to be extremely affected : tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly ; but, when the hour was ex- pired, they, in a moment, ceased their cries, and dried their cheeks. In their progress up the river, the Indians walked along the banks, and, every night, encamped near the boats. On the 28th the boats reached the mouth of the Osuffe river. For some distance the southern shore of the Missouri had been hilly, and covered with trees; and on the north were low bottoms and heavy timber. The soil was rich, and well adapted for cultivation. They entered the Osage, and encountered few diffi- culties in their voyage up that river. From the shores, the hunters amply supplied the whole party with pro- visions; deer, turkeys, geese, and game ofdifTcreut Kmds. From the mouth of the Osage to that of tlie Gravel river y a distance of one hundred and eighteen miles, the banks of the former are covered with timber, which grows in a rich soil. Low hills, with rocks, alternately m iii >^ti, fc-''i I '< .lr> ■n\ i«.!- f ', ( 230 pike's journey from border the eastern and western shores : the lower grounds have excellent soil, and the whole adjacent country abounds in game. From the Gravel-river to to the Yungar, the Osage continues to exhibit the ap- pearance of a fertile and well-timbered country. The Indians joined their friends on the 15th, aA»r which Mr. Pike and his party proceeded alone. On the ensuing day they passed the mouth of the Grand Forkf which was nearly as wide as the Osage; and, soon afterwards, reached the villages of the Osage Indians. The country adjacent to these villages is extremely beautiful. Three branches of the river wind round them, giving to their vicinity the advantages of wood and water, and, at the same time, those of an extensive prairie, crowned with rich and luxuriant grass and flowers, diversified by rising swells and sloping lawns. The Osage Indians, in language, habits, and many of their customs, differ little from other tribes which inha- bit the country near the Missouri and Mississippi. They raise great quantities of corn, beans, and pump- kins ; and all the agricultural labour is performed by women. The government is vested in a few of the chiefs, whose office is, in most instances, hereditary; but these never undertalie any affair of importance, without first assembling the warriors, and proposing the subject for discussion in council. The Osage In- dians are divided into classes: those of the principal class are warriors and hunters ; and the others are cooks and doctors. The last exercise the function of priests or magicians ; and, by pretended divinations, interpre- tations of dreams, and magical performances, they have great influence in the councils of the nation : they also exercise the office of town-criers. Many old warriors assume the profession of cooks : these do not carry arms, and are supported by the public, or by particular fami- lies to which they are attached. When a stranger enters the Osage village, he is re- ceived, in a patriarchal style, at the lodge of the chief. He is then invited, by all the great men of the village. ■' * ST. LOUIS TO SANTA FE. 2^1 IS rc- to a feast. The cooks proclaim the feast, in different parts of the village, "Come and eat: such a one gives a feast, come and partake of his bounty." The dishc's are generally boiled sweet corn, served up in buffalo grease ; or boiled meat and pumpkins. From the Osage villages, Mr. Pike, and his men, ac- companied by several Indians, proceeded, on horseback, in a somewhat westerly direction, towards the river Arkanshaw. In some places the country was hilly, and commanded beautiful prospects. The wild animals were so numerous, that Mr. Pike, standing on one of the hills, beheld, at a single view, buffaloes, elks, deer, and panthers. Beyond this they passed through nu- merous herds of buflaloes, elks, and other animals. In many places the country was very deficient in water. On the 1 7th of September they reached a branch of the Kanzes river, the water of which was strongly im- pregnated with salt, as was that of many of the creeks. At some distance beyond this river, they were met by a party of Pawnee Indians; one of whom wore a scarlet coat, and had two medals: each of the others had a buffalo robe thrown over his naked body. From the eastern branch of the Kanzes river, to tlie village of the Pawnee Indians, the prairies are low, the grass is high, the country abounds in saline places, and the soil appears to be impregnated with particles of nitre and of common salt. The immediate borders of the river near the village, consist of lofty ridges ; but this is an exception to the general appearance of the country. The Pawnees reside on the rivers Platte and Kanzes. They are divided into three tribes. Their form is slen- der, and their cheeks bones are high. Tliey are neither so brave nor so honest as their more northern neigh- bours. Their government, like that of the Osage In- dians, is an hereditary aristocracy ; but the power of the chiefs is extremely limited. They cultivate the soil and raise corn and pumpkins: they also breed JW ifij \.u . l»l ' ¥i\n m p'kO 23 pike's journey fuom liorscs, and liave vast numbers of excellent animals. The houses or huts of the Pawnees are circular, ex- cept at the part where the door is placed ; and, from this part, there is a projection of about fifteen feet. The roofs are thatched with grass and earth, and have, at the top, an aperture for the smoke to pass out : the fire is always made on the ground, in the middle of the hut. In the interior there arc, round the walls, many small and neat apartments, constructed of wicker-work : these are the sleeping places of the different members of the family. The Pawnees are extremely addicted to gaming, and have, for that purpose, a smooth piece of ground, about one hundred and fifty yards in length, cleared at each end of their village. On Monday, the 29th of September, Mr. Pike held a grand council with the Pawnees ; at which were present not fewer than four hundred warriors. Some attempts were made, by the chief, to prevent the further progress of the travellers ; but Mr. Pike says, that they were not to be deterred by any impediments that could be op- posed to them by a band of savages. Proceeding onward they came to several places which had evidently been occupied by Spanish troops ; and they were desirous of tracing the course along which these troops had marched; but the marks of their footsteps had been effaced by the numerous herds of buffaloes, which abound in this part of the country. On the 18th of October, the travellers crossed the Arkansaw, From the Pawnee town, on the Kanzes river, to the Arkansaw, the country may be termed mountainous; audit contains a vast number of buffa- loes. In the vicinity of this river it is, in many places, low and swampy. The travellers were occupied several days in cutting down trees and constructing canoes. During this time the hunters killed several buffaloes, elks, and other ani- mals. When the canoes were completed, Mr. Pike dis- patched Lieutenant Wilkinson, and three men, down the river, with letters to the United States ; and himself and ST. LOUIS TO SANTA FE. 233 the rest of liis men proceeded, on liorseback, up the side of the river. On the 29th of October, a considerable quantity of snow fell, and ice floated along the current. Three days after this, they observed a numerous herd o( vyild horses. When within about a quarter of a mile o( them, the animals approached, making the earth tremble, as if under a charge of cavalry. They stop- ped; and, among tliem, were seen some beautiful bays, blacks, and greys, and, indeed, horses of all colours. The next day the party endeavoured to catch some of them, by riding up, and throwing nooses over them. The horses stood, neighing and whinnying, till the as-- sailants approached within thirty or forty yards ; but all attempts to ensnare them were vain. Buffaloes were so numerous, that Mr. Pike says he is confident there were, at one time, more than three thousand within view. Through all the region which the party had hitherto traversed, they had not seen more than one cow-buffalo; but now the whole face of the country appeared to be covered with cows. Numerous herds of them were seen nearly every day. The course of the travellers still lay along the banks of the river ; which, in this part of the country, were covered with wood on both sides ; but no other species of trees were observed than cotton-wood. On the ioth of November, a range of mountains was seen, at a great distance, towards the right : they appeared Hke a small blue cloud; and the party, with one ac- cord, gave three cheers, to what they considered to be the Mexican mountains On the ii2d, a great number of Indians were seen in the act of running from the woods, towards the stran- gers. Mr. Pike and his men advanced to meet tliem ; and observing that those in front, extended their hands, and appeared to be unarmed, he alighted from his horse. But he had no sooner done this, than one of the sa- vages mounted the horse, and rode off with it. Two other horses were taken away in a similar manner; '• ) '- iii- li. ■''. S3i riKE S JOURNEY FROM but, when tranquillity was restored, these were all after- wards recovered. This was a war-party of the Grand Pawnees, who had been in search of an Indian nation called Jetans ; but, not finding them, they were now on their return. They were about sixty in number, armed partly with guns, and partly with bows, arrows, and lances. An attempt was made to tranquillize them, by assembling them in a circle, offering to smoke with them the pipe of peace, and presenting them with tobacco, knives, fire-steels, and flints. With some difficulty they were induced to accept these presents, for they had demanded many more; and, when the travellers began to load their horses, they stole what- ever they could carry away. A few days afler this, Mr. Pike and his men reached the Blue Mountain, which they had seen on the 15th; and, with great difficulty, some of them ascended it. Along the sides, which were, in many places, rocky, and difficult of ascent, grew yellow and pitch pine- trees, and the summit was several feet deep in snow. From the entrance of the Arkansatv into the moun- tains, to its source, it is alternately bounded by per- pendicular precipices, and small, narrow prairies. In many places, the river precipitates itself over rocks, so as to be at one moment visible only in the foamii^g and boiling of its waters, and at the next disappearing in the chasms of the overhanging precipices. The length of this river is one thousand nine hundred and eight)'- one miles, from its junction with the Mississippi to the mountains ; and thence to its source one hundred and ninety-two ; making its total length two thousand one hundred and seventy-three miles. With light boats it is navigable all the way to the mountains. Its borders may be termed the terrestrial paradise of the wandering sa- vages. Of all the countries ever visited by civilized man, there probably never was one that produced game in greater abundance than this. By the route of the Arkansaw and the Rio Colo- rado of California, Mr. Pike is of opinion tliat u ST. LOUIS TO SANTA FE. 235 communication might be established betwixt the At- lantic and Pacific oceans. The land-carriage, at the utmost, would not exceed two hundred miles ; and this might be rendered as easy as along the public high- ways over the Alleghany Mountains. The Rio Colo- rado is, to the great Gulf of California, what the Mis- sissippi is to the Gulf of Mexico ; and is navigable for ships of considerable burden. The travellers left the vicinity of the Arkansaw on the 30th of November; and, though the ground was covered with snow, and they suffered excessively from the cold, they still persevered in their journey, and in their labour of examining and ascertaining the courses of the rivers. They killed a great number of buffaloes and turkeys. Steering their course in a south-westerly direction, for the head of the Red river, one of the party found a camp which had been occupied by at least three thousand Indians : it had a large cross in the middle. They subsequently found many evacuated camps of Indians. On the 1 8th of December, they came to a stream, about twenty-five yards in width, which they errone- ously supposed to be a branch of the Red river. Its current flowed with great rapidity, and its bed was full of rocks. On ascending this river, to examine its source, it was found to run close to the mountains, in a narrow and rocky channel ; and to have its banks bor- dered with pine-trees, cedar, and other kinds of timber. The whole party suffered extremely from cold ; their clothing being frozen stiff, and their limbs considerably benumbed. Their situation, on Christmas-day, was not very envi- able. All the food they possessed, was buffalo-flesii, without salt. Before this time, they had been accus- tomed to some degree of comfort, and had experi- enced even some enjoyments : but now, at the most in- clement season of the year, and eight hundred miles distant from the frontiers of the United States, not one person was properly clad for the winter ; many were even i.J|r^y|ji!i|, t I< ii-r ;'.'3G riKt S JOURNEY FROM without blanket??, having cut them up for socks and otiier articles; and all were obliged to lie down at nirribIe noises of the new volcano, had abandoned all the villages, within seven or eight leagues of it. They, however, gradually became accustomed to them, and returned to their cottages. So violent were the erup- tions of this mountain, that the roofs cf houses in Que- retaro, though at a distance of more than forty-eight leagues, in a straight line from the scene of explosion, were sometimes covered with ashes. The Mexican population consists of seven races, 1. Individuals born in Europe; 2. Creoles, or Whites of European extraction, born in America; 3. Mesto- zos, or descendants of whites and Indians; ^. Mulattos, descendants; of whites and negroes ; 5. Zambos, de- scendants of negroes and Indians; 6. Indians, or the copper-coloured indigenous race ; and, 7. African ne« groes. The nuniber of Indians^ including those only who have no mixture of European or African blood, are more than two millions and a half in number; and these appear to constitute about two-fifths of the whole population of Mexico. They bear a general resem- blance to the Indians of Canada, Florida, Peru, and Brazil: they have a similar swarthy and copper-co- loured skin, smooth hair, little beard, squat body« long eyes, with the corners directed upward towards the temples, prominent cheek bones, and thick lips. There is a great diversity in their language, but tliey appear to have been all dv'scendants from the same original stock. It is probable that these Indians would live to a ^rcat age, did they not often injure their constitution by drunkenness. Their intoxicating liquors are rum, a fermentation of maize, and the root of the jatropha; and especially u wine which is made fiom the juice of MEXICO OR NEW SPAIK. 243 the great American aloe. The police, in the city of Mexico, sends round tumbrils, to collect such drunk- ards as are found lying in the streets. These are treated like dead bodies, and are carried to tlie principal guard-house. The next morning an iron ring is put round each of their ancles, and, as a punish- ment, they are made to cleanse the streets for three days. The Mexican Indian, when not under the influence of intoxicating liquors, is grave, melancholic, and silent. The most violent passions are never depicted in his features : and it is sometimes frightful to see him pass, at once, from a state of apparent repose, to the most vi- olent and unrestrained agitation. It is stated that these Indians have preserved, from their ancestors, a partfcu- lar relish for carving in wood and stone; and that it is astonishing to see what they are able to execute with a bad knife, on the hardest wood. Many Indian children, educated in the college of tlie capital, or instructed at the academy of painting, founded by the king of Spain, have considerably distinguished themselves, but without leaving the beaten track pursued by their forefathers: tiiey chiefly display great aptitude in the arts of imita* tion ; and in the purely mechanical arts. The Spanish inhabilantt and the Creoles are noted fur hospitality, generosity, and sobriety; but they are extremely deficient in energy, patriotism, enterprise, and independence of cliaracter. The women have black eyes and hair, and fine teeth : they are of dark colour, full habit of body, and have, in general, bad figures. They usually wear short jackets and petti* cuats, high-heeled shoes, and no head-dress. As an upper garment they have a silk wrapper, which, wlu;n tliey are in the presence of men, they affect to bring over their faces. In the towns on the frontiers and ad- jacent to the sea-coast, many of the ladles wear ^owns, like those of our country-women. The lower classes of men are generally dressed in broad-brimmed hats, ihort coats, large waistcoats, smallclothes open at tho M )2 11 '<«' .jM \*'. Iri iwi 2U MEXICO OR NEW SI'AlN'. knees, and a kind of boot or leather wrapper bounf! round the leg, and gartered at the knee. The spurs ol the gentlemen arc clumsy : they are ornamented with raised work ; and the straps are embroidered with j,'oId and silver thread. The Spanish Americans are always ready to mount their horses ; and the inhabitants of the interior provinces pass nearly half their day on horse- back. In the towns, and among the higher ranks, tlie men dress in the European style. The amusements of this people are music, singing, dancing, and gambling : the latter is, indeed, officially prohibited ; but the prohibition is not much attended to. At every large town there is a public walk, where the ladies and gentlemen meet and sing songs. Tlic fe- males have tine voices, and sing French, Italian, and Spanish music, the whole company joining in chorii';. In their houses the ladies play on the guitar, and ac- company this instrument with their voices. They either sit on the carpet cross-legged, or loll on a sofa : to sit upright, on a chair, appears to put them to great incon- venience. Both in eating md drinking the Spanish Americ.ins are remarkably temperate. Early in the morning those of the higher class have chocolate. At twelve they dine on meat, fowls, and fish; after which different kinds of confectionary are placed on the table ; they drink a few glasses of wine, sing a few songs, and then retire to take their siesta or afternoon nap. 'I'he latter is a practice common both to rich and poor : the conse- tjuen'ie of it is that, about two o'clock, every day, the windows and doors of the town are all closed, the streets are deserted, and the stillness of midnight reiL'ns throughout. At four they rise, wash and dress, and prepare for the dissipation of the evening. About eleven o'clock refreshments are offered ; but few take any thing except a little wine and water and candied sugar. The contniercc of New Spain, w ith Europe and the United States, is carried on tlirough the port of Vera MEXICO OR NEW SPAIN, 1345 Cruz only; and with the East Indies and South Ame- rica, through that of Acapuico. But all the commor- tial transactions, and all the productions and manu- i'at'lnres, are subjected to such severe restrictions, that they are at present of little importance to the prospe- rity of the country. Were the various bays and har- bours of Mexico and California to be opened to the trade of the world ; and were correct regulations to be adopted, New Spain might become both wealthy anil powerful. Many parts of the country abound in iron ore, yet iron and steel articles, of every description, are brought from Europe ; for the manufacturing or work- \ni3 ' T ■ 1 nlfni ■!ri 'i (1 . n ' f n S50 A DEscRirnoK or logSt a handsome place, at which the Marquis de San Miguel, a wealthy nobleman, who possessed extensive property in this part of New Spain, usually passed the summer. The Hacienda of PoUoss is a square en- closure of about three hundred feet: the building is no more than one story high ; but some of the apart- ments are very elegandy furnished. In the centre of the f^quare is a fountain, which throws out water from eight spouts. There is also, at this place, a handsome church, which, with its ornaments, is said to have cost at least twenty thousand dollars. The inhabitants are about two thousand in number. MonielovcZi situated on the banks of a small stream, is about a mile in length. It has two public squares, seven churches, some powder-magazines, mills, a royal hospital, and barracks. The number of inhabitants is about three thousand five hundred. This city is orna- mented with public walks, columns, and fountains; and is one of the handsomest places fn New Spain*. South-west from Montelovez stands Durango, the chief city of the province of Biscay. In the vicinity of this place are many rich and valuable mines ; and the soil is so fertile as to produce abundant crops of wheat, maize, and fruit. The climate is mild and healthy. Durango contains about twelve thousand inhabitants; and has four convents and three churches. A Description of the City of Mexico, This magnificent city is the capital of New Spain, and the residence of the viceroy. In its situation it possesses many important advantages. Standing on an isthmus, whicli is waslied on one side by the Atlan- tic Ocean, and on the other by the South-sea, it might • From this place, Mr. Pike was conducted, through St. Antonio, in a north-westerly direction, to the territories ol" the United States ; and he terminates the account of his tra- .▼els at Natchitochef^ on the southern bank of the Bed river. THE CITY OF MEXICO. 251 might possess a powerful influence over the political events which agitate the world. A king of Spain, resident at tliis capital, might, in six weeks, transmit his orders to Europe, and, in three weeks, to the Philippine islands in Asia. There are, however, difHculties to be en- countered, arising from the unfavourable state of the coasts, and the want of secure harbours. During seve- ral months in the year, these coasts are visited by tem- pests. The hurricanes, also, which occur in the months of September, October, and March, and which some- times last for three or four successive days, are very tremendous. Mexico was originally founded in the lake of Tez- cuco; and, at the time when the Spaniards first in- vaded America, it was a magnificent capital. Cortez, describing it in the year 1520, says, that it was in the midst of a salt-water lake, which had its tides, like the ocean; and that, from the city to the continent, there was a distance of two leagues. Four dikes or em- bankments, each two lances broad, led to the city. The principal streets were narrow : some of them had navi- gable canals running along them, furnished with bridges, wide enough for ten men on horseback, to pass at the same time. The market-place was sur- rounded with an immense portico, under which were sold all sorts of merchandise, eatables, ornaments made of gold, silver, lead, pewter, precious stones, bones, shells, and feathers; earthen-ware, leather, and spun cotton. In some places were exposed to sale hewn stone, tiles, and timber for building; in others game ; and, in others, roots, garden-stuft', and fruit. There were houses where barbers shaved the head, witli razors made of obsidian, a volcanic substance not much unlike bottle-glass ; and there were others, resembling our apothecary-shops, where prepared medicines, un- guents, and plaisters were sold. The market abounded with so many things, that Cortes was unable to name them all. To avoid confusion, eVery species of mer- chandise was sold in a separate place. In the middle ] I J' »! '! i 252 A DESCRIPTION OF of tlie great square was a house, which he calls LAu- diencia; and in which ten or twelve persons sate every day, to determine any disputes which might arise re- specting the sale of goods. Tlie city was divided into four quarters: this division is still preserved, in the limits assigned to the quarters of St. Paul, St. Sebastian, St. John, and St. Mary; and the present streets have, for the most part, the same direction as the old ones. But what gives to this city a peculiar and distinctive character is, that it is entirely on the continent, between the extremities of the two lakes of Tezcuco and Chalco. This has heeii occasioned by the gradual draining of the great lake, and the consequent drying up of the waters around tlie iiity. Hence Mexico is now two miles and half from the banks of the former, and five miles and half from those of the latter. Adorned with numerous teocallis, (or temples,) like so many Mahometan steeples, surrounded with water and embankments, found'nl on islands covered with verdure, and receiving, hourly, in its streets, thousands of boats, which vivified the lake, the ancient Mexieo, according to the accounts of the fn*st conquerors, nuist have resembled some of the cities of Holland, Ciiiiui, or the Delta of Lower Egypt. As reconstructed by the Spaniards, it exhibits, at the present day, perhaps a less vivid, though a more august and majestic apj)earance, than the ancient city. With the exception of Petersburg, Berlin, Philadelpliia, and some quarters of Westminster, there does not exist a place of the same extent, which can be com])ared to the capital of New Spain, for the uniform level of the ground on which it stands, for the regularity and breadth of the streets, and the extent of its public places. The architecture is, for the most part, in a pure style; and many of the edifices are of a very beautiful structure. The exterior of the houses is not loaded with ornaments. Two sorts of hewn stone, give to the Mexican buildings an air of soHdity, and some- times woodc much Indie» THE CITV OF MEXICO. 2j3 times evon of ma«rniticcnce. Tlurc aro none of those wooden balconies and galleries to be seen, which so much disfigure all the European cities in both the Indies. The balustrades and gates arc all of iron, ornamented with bronze; and the houses, instead of roofs, have terraces, like those in Italy, and other southern countries of tlie old continent. Mexico has, of late, received many additional em- bellishments. An edifice, for the School of Mines, which was built at an cxpence of more than £. 1 'iO,()00 sterling, would adorn the principal places of Paris or London. Two great palaces have been constructed by Mexican artists, pupils of the Academy of Fine Arts. One of these has a beautiful interior, ornamented with columns. But, notwithstanding the progress of the avts, within the last thirty years, it is much less from tlie L^andeur and beauty of the monuments, than from the breadth and straightness of the streets; and nmcii less from its edifices, than from its uniform regularity, its extent and position, that the capital of New Sj)ain attracts tlie admiration of Europeans. M. De Humboldt had suc- cessively visited, within a very short space of time, liima, Mexico, Philadelphia, Washington, Paris, Rome, Naples, and the largest cities of (iermany ; and not- withstanding unavoidable comparisons, of which seve- ral might be supposed disadvantageous to the capital of Mexico, there was left on his mind, a recollection of grandeur, which he principally attributtnl to the majes- tic character of its situation, and the beauty of the surrounding scenery. In fact, nothing can present a more rich and varied appearance than the valley of Mcjcico, when, in aline summer morning, a person ascends one of the towers of the cathedral, or the adjacent hill oi' Chai)oltepec. A beautiful vegetation surrounds this hill. From its summit, the eye wanders over a vast plain of richly- cidtivated fields, which extend to the very feet of co- lossal mountains, that arc covered with perpetual snow. I *i t^ 254 A DESCRIPTION OF The city api^cars as if washed by the waters of the lake of Tczcuco, w hose basin, surrounded by villages and IinniletH, brings to mind the most beautiful lakes of the mountains of Switzerland. Large avenues of elms and poplars lead, in every direction, to the capital; and two aqueducts, constr^;cted over arches of great elevation, cross the plain, and exhibit an appearance equally agreeable and interesting. Mexico is remarkable for its excellent police. Most of the streets have broad pavements; and they are clean, and well lighted. Water ir., every where, to he had ; but ii is brackish, like the water of the lake. There are, however, two aqueducts, by which the city receives fresh-water, from distant springs. Some remains of the dikes or embankments, are still to be seen: they, at present, form great paved causeys, across marshy ground; and, as tliey are considerably ele- vated, they possess the double advantage, of admittinij the passage of carriages, and restraining the over- flowings of the lake. This city has six principal gates : and is surrounded by a ditch, but is without walls. The objects which chiefly attract the attention ni strangers, are 1. The Cathcilial, which is partly in th« Gothic style of architecture, and has two towers, orna- mented with pilasters and statues, of very beautiful symmetry. 2. The Treasun/, which adjoins to the palace of the viceroys: from this building, since the beginning of the 16th century, more than 270 mil- lions sterlin«5 in gold and silver coin, have been issued. 3. The Convents. 4. The Hospital, or rather the two united hospitals, of which one maintains six hundred, and the other eight hundred children and old peoj)le. 5. The Acordada, a fine edifice, of which the prisons are spacious and well aired. (1. The School of Mines. 7. The Botanical Garden, in one of the courts of ilu' viceroy's palace. 8. The edifices of the L'«/fo*//^ and the Public Library, which, however, are very unworthy of so great and ancient an establishment. 9. The Acade- my of Fine Arts, THE CITY OP MEXICO. 255 Mexico is the see of an archbiHhop, and contains twenty-three convents for monks, and Hfteen for nuns. Its whole population is estimated at one hundred and forty thousand persons. On the north-side of the city, near the suburbs, is • pubiic rvalkt which forms a large square, having a ba- sin in the middle, and where eight walks terminate. The markets of Mexico are well supplied witli eata- bles; particularly with roots and fruit. It is an inte- resting spectacle, which may be enjoyed every morning at sunrise, to see these provisions, and a great quantity of flowers, brought by Indians, in lioats, along the ca- nals. Most of the roots are cultivated on what arp called chinampas, or " floating gardens." These arc of two sorts : one moveable, and driven about by the winds, and the other flxed and attached to the shore. The flrst alone merit the denomination of floating- gardens. Simple lumps of earth, in lakes or rivers, carried away from the banks, have given rise to the invention of chinampas. The floating-gardens, of which very many were found by the Spaniards, when they first invaded Mexico, and of which many still exist in the lake of Chalco, were rafts formed of reeds, rushes, roots, and branches of underwood. The Indians cover these li<(ht and well connected materials with a black mould, which becomes extremely fertile. The chinampas sometimes contain the cottage of the Indian, who acts as guard for a groupe of floating gardens. When removed from one side of the banks to tlie other, they are either towed or are pushed with long poles. Every cliinanipa forms an oblong square about threo hundred feet in Icnr^th, and eighteen or nineteen feet broad. Narrow ditciies, communicating symmetrically between them, separate these squares. The mould fit for cultivation rises about three feet above the surface of the surronndinjj water. On these chinampas are cultivated beans, peas, pimento, potatoes, artichokes, cauliHowers, and a great variety of other vegetables. Their sides are generally ornamented with flowers, and sometimes witli Mr ' HI f m loQ A nrSCRII'TION OF SOME licdjfcs of rosc-buslics. The promenade in boats, around the chinumpas of the river Istracalco, is one of the most an;reeal)le amusements that can be enjoyed in 1 he nn irons of Mexico. The vegetation is extremely vlirorous, on a soil wlucli is continually refreshed with water. 'I'he ///"// of C/iapoliepec, near Mexico, was chosen by the young viceroy Calvez, as the site of a villa for hini- x'lf aiul his successors. Tin; castle has been finished externally, but the apartments were not completed when M. de Humboldt was here. This building cost tlu! king of Spain more than «£.0c, 000 sterling. W itii respect to tlie two great /V/Arj, Tezcuco and Chi.lco, which are situated in the valley of Mexico, one IS of i'rcsh water, and the other salt. They are sepa- rated hv a narrow ranafe of moun ains, which rise in the middle of tlic plain; and their \aters mingle together, in a strait between the hills. On both these lakes there are numerous towns and villages, which carry on their conuneree with each other in canoes, without touchinj;; the continent. MEXICO CONCLUDED. ,'/ Description of some of (he mod imporlant Places in Mexico. In an ensterly direction from the city of Mexico lie<« T/a.sra/a, a town, which, two hundred years ago, at the time of the Spanish invasion, had a numerous popula- tion, and was in a wealthy and flourishing state. The inhabitants of this place were im])lacable enc^mios of the Mexicans, and aided the Spaniards in the conque. i of their country. It is now, however, little more than a village, lontainino- about three thoubund inhabitants. Soniu IMPORTAKT PLACES IN MEXICO. S57 parts of the nnciont walls still remain, and aro com- posed of altcrnato strata of brirk and clay. Six leagues south-west from Tl.iscala, and in the midst of a di-liirhtlid valley, watered by a river which runs south-west to the Pacific Ocean, stands I'nchla, the capital of an inteiulancy, and the see of a bishop. It is a large and renularly built manufacturing town, notorious for the proHigacy of its inhabitants. C/iofnla, once a sacred Indian town, to which pilgrim- ages were frequent, but now a mean village, is not far from Puebhi. 'J'his place is, at present, remarkablo only for a curious monument of anti(iuity, a pyramid which consists of four stages, and is about one hundred and seventy-seven feet in ])erpendicular height, and one thousand four hundred and twenty-three feet at the base. Its structure appears to consist of alternate strata of bricks and clay. In the midst of this pyramid there is a church, where mass is, every morning, celebrated by an ecclesiastic of Indian extraction, whose residence is on the summit. Eastward of the intendancy of Puebla is that of Fcra Cruz. This district is enriched with various natural productions, extremely valuable both in a commercial and economical view. The sugar-cane grows here in great luxuriance: chocolate, tobacco, cotton, sarsapa- rilla, are all abundant; but the indolence of the inha- bitants is so great, and all their wants are so easily sup- plied, by the natural fertility of the soil, tliat the country does not produce one half of what, under good manage- ment, it might be made to produce. The sugar and cotton plantations are chiefly attended to ; but the progress made in these is not great. The chief city of the province is Vera Cruz; a sea-port, the residence of the governor, and the centre of the Spa- iiish West Indian and American commerce. This city is beautifully and regularly built; but on an arid plain, destitute of water, and covered with hills of moving sand, that are formed by the north winds, which blo\v, witJi impetuosity, every year, from October till Apnl, t 4 » \r \ I ll' ' JM- I Hi 'I 258 A DESCRIPTION Of SOMii These hills arc incessantly changing their form and situ- ation : they are from twenty to thirty feet in height , and, by the reflection of the sun's rays upon them, and the high temperature which they acquire during tho summer months, they contribute much to increase the suffocating heat of the atmosphere. The house.i in Vera Cruz are chiefly built of wood ; for no stone whatever is found in the vicinity of tin j)lacc. The public ediflces arc constructed of materials obtained from the bottom of the ocean: the stony habi- tations of a kind of marine animals called madrepores. The to.vn is of great extent; and is surrounded by a wall, and defended by a kind of citadel, which stands on an adjacent rocky island. The harbour is well pro- tected; but the entrance into it is so narrowed by rocks, that only one ship can pass at a time. On the annual arrival of the flota, or fleet of mer- chant-vessels from Old Spain, Vera Cruz is crowded, from all parts of the adjacent country ; and a kind of fair is opened, which lasts many weeks. The principal inhabitants are inerchants, but very few of them reside wholly in the town ; for the heat of th^.^ climate, the stagnant water in the vicinity of the place, and the b.id quality of the water used for drinking, are the cause of yellow fever and numerous other diseases. The churches of Vera Ciuz are much decorated wild silver ornaments. In the dwelling houses, the chief luxury consists of porcelain and other Chinese articles. The whole number of inhabitants is estimated at about thirteen thousand. They are, in general, proud and in- dolent. The women, few of whom are handsoine, live much in retirement. During the rainy season, the marshes south of th(' town are haunted by alligators. Sea-fowl of various kinds are here innumerable ; and the musciuitocs, at cer- tain seasons of the year, are very tffuiblesome. Earth- quakes are not ufi frequent. The nor^ winds are so tremendous as oftao to drive vessels on shore: thest; Ifaleii sometimes load the walls with sand; and m* IMrORTA^n* PLACES IN MEXICO. 259 much inconvenience is occasioned by them, that, during their continuance, ladies are excused by the priests from going to mass. The richest merchants of this place have country- houses at XaiapOy a town, in a romantic situation, about twenty leagues distant. Here they enjoy a cool and agreeable retreat from the arid climate and noxious exhalations of Vera Cruz. In the vicinity of Xalapa, thick forests of styrax, piper, melastomata, and ferns resembling trees, aHbrd the most delightful promenades imaginable. The intendancy of Vera Cruz contains, within its limits, two colossal summits ; one of which, the volcano of Orizaba, is of great height, and has its top inclined towards the south-east, by which the crater is visible to a considerable distance. The other summit, the Cuff re de Perote, according to M. de Humboldt's measurement, is one thousand three hundred feet higher than the Pic of Tenerifte. It serves as a land-mark to vessels ap- proaching Vera Cruz. A thick bed of pumice-stone environs this mountain. Nothing at the summit an- nounces a crater ; and the currents of lava observable between some adjacent villages, appear to be the effecti of an ancient explosion. The small volcano of Tuxtla is about four leagues from the coast, and near an Indian village, called Saint Jago di Tuxtla. The last eruption of this volcano took place on the 2d cf March, 1793; and, during its con- Hnuance, the roofs of houses at Oaxaca, Vera Cruz, and Perote, were covered with volcanic ashes. At Pcrote, fifty-seven leagues distant, the subterraneous noises re* •embled heavy discharges of artillery. In the northern part of the intendancy of Vera Cruz, and two Icagu^^s from the village of PapantUtt there is a pyramidal c(/i;fce of great antiquity. It is in the midst of a forest; and the Indians, for more than two centu* rics, succeeded in concealing, from the knowledge of the Spaniards, this object of ancient veneration. It was accidentally discovered, by a party of hunters, about "•i r,if* :^« ■r % SCO A DT-ScniPTION' OF SOMB tliirty years ago. The Ttiatoriuls that have been em- ployed in its corstruclion arc immense stonos cemented with mortar ; and it is remarkable for its general sym- metry, Tor tlie ])olish of its stones, and the great regu- larity of their form. Its base is an exact sqiiare, each side being eighty-two feet in length. 'J'he perpendicular height is about sixty feet, 'lliis momnnent, like all the Mexican teocallis or temples, is composed of several stages. Six are still distinguishable, and a seventh ap- pears to be concealed by the vegetation, with which the *opulous and gay; and is then tiJkd with the wealthiest rotrcluMlts of Mttxico wid IMPORTANT 1'LACl.S IN MI.X1C(). ^61 Peru. Sucli, liowovrr, is the cfonrral dread of its un- healthincss, that these do not sleep within the walb, but reside ehieHy in tents in its vicinit5\ At some distaneceast ot'Acapulco, in a beautiful and populous valley, stands the town of Guaxaca or Oaxaca ; distinguished by the niai^niiicenee of its situation, the temperature and salul>rity of its cliiMte, tlic excellence of its soil, and its j^eneral majestic ap- pearance.'. I'he streets are wide, straight, and well })av('d; and tile houses are chiefly built of stone. The churches and monasteries are numerous, and richly de- corated. On one side of the njreat s(piare is the town- house, which is constructed with stone of a sea-green colour. The bis]io})'s pahice and the cathedral form two other sides of the same sqiiare: they are surrouad- cd by arcades, as a shelter ai>ainst both the sun and the rain. In the suburbs of Guaxaca are gardens, and plantations of cactus or prickly pear-trees, on whicli great numbers of cochineal insects feed. Guaxaca ts not only watered by a beautiful river, but is al)undantly supplied, by atjueducts, vith }>ure water from ih(> ad- jacent mountains, its population, including Indi^uia^ muJatto(>s, and iiegroes, amounts to about twenty-fouf thou.sand i)er.sons. The intvndanc'f of Yucalnn fi>rins a peninsula, about a hmidred leagues i»i hngth, between the bays of Cam- peacjjy and llonihiras. A ridge of low hills extendit along it, from south-west to north-east; and, between this ridge and the liaii of Campcachij, tlie dry and parclu'd soil produces logwood in grttit abundance^ and of excellent (puility. I'or iH«rly live months, (hir- ing the rainy season, the low grounds are partially in- undated : in iH'bruarv the waters are dried up ; .\ad, throughout the remainder of the year, there is scarcely any stream to be Ibund. Hence the inhabitants can only t)e supplied with fresh water by pits anil welUi, 'J'he eastern coast of Vticatatt is so shallow and muddy, i\\8ii large vessels cannot approadi within lour iea^jucs iJi :ii M i\ 2G2 A DESCRiniON OF SOME of the shore. The chief productions of this peninsula are maize, cotton, indigo, and logwood. The governor resides at a small inland town called Merida, situated on an arid plain, and containing about six thousand inhabitants. The principal sea-port is Campeachy, near the north-west extremity of the pe- ninsula. This town has a good dock, and a fort which protects both the place and the harbour. The houses are chiefly built of stone. Campeachy has some cotton manufactories, and a trade in wax and salt; but its eliief trade is in logwood. Hondurw; is an important province, south of Yuca- tan. Its climate is superior to that of most other parte of America, within tlie torrid zone. With the excep- tion of a few months in the year, it is refreshed by re- gular aea-breezes. The periodical rains are here cxces- •ively heavy. I'he dry season is usually comprehended within the months of April, May, and June; and the •lui, during this time, is excessively powerful. This province is about three hundred and ninety miles in length, from cast to west, and consists of mountains, ▼alleys, and plains, watered by many rivers. Hondii- jras abounds in honey, wax, cotton, corn, fruit, and dyeing woods. It has some gold and silver mines ; and its pastures feed great numbers of sheep and cattle. Its vineyards yield grapes twice in the year ; but, from indolence and want of cultivation, many parts of it have become desert. 'inhere is a British settlement at a place called Balke, near the mouth of a river of the same name. Tiiis town is immediately open to the sea; and, though in a low situation, the groups of lofty cocoa-nut trees, and the thickly-interspersed and lively foliage of tlie tama- rind trees, contribute to give a picturesque and plcasiii<( effect to tluf dwellings of the inhabitants. The number of houses, of all descriptions, is about two hundred; and many of them, particularly such as are the property of the most opulent merchants, are spacious, commodioii.s, and well finished. They are built of wood, gjul are IMrORTANI PLACES IN MEXICO. 263 id art' generally raised eight or ten feet from the ground, on pillars of mahogany. The stores and offices are always on the lower, and tlic dining and sleeping apartments on the upper story. Every habitation, likewise, lias its upper and lower piazzas, which are indispensably ne- cessary in hot climates. Balize stands at the edge of a swamp many miles in extent, which prevents nearly all intercourse with the interior of the country. The principal articles at present imported from Eu- rope into Honduras, are linens, printed cottorw, mus- lins of the most costly manufacture, negro clothing, broadcloths, hosiery, hats, shoes, boots, earthern and glass wares, silver and plated goods, hardware, and cutlery : salted provisions, from Britain or America, are also in continual demand for the food of the slaves. Few countries possess greater commercial advantagcf, in an agricultural view, than this. Tlit productions of the West Indian islands, might all unquestionably be cultivated here, as well as most others which are grown within the tropics. But the cutting of logwood and mahogany is the chief occupation of the British settlers. The banks of the river Balize have long been occupied l)y mahogany-cutters, even to the distance of two hun- (h*ed miles from its mouth. About thirty miles up the Balize, on its banks, ai* found what are denominated the Indian hills. These are small eminences, which are supposed to have been raised by Indians over their dead ; human bones, and fragments of a coane kind of earthenware, being f rc- (juently dug up from them. Nicaragua is a Spanish province, l)Ctween Honduras and the isthmus of Darien. It is al)Out eighty h^agucs in length and Hfty in breadth; and consists, lor the most part, of high and wooded mountains, f?ome of whicli are volcanic. The valleys are watered by many streams, but only one of these is of any importance, lliis is the river Yare, which nms, from west to east, through the northern part of the province. 'Hie most important prodiwtions of Nicaragua are timber, cotton, « m 264 NOVA SCOTIA. ftUfjar, honey, and \va?<. The chief town is Leoti (/,• Nicaragua, a place of considerable trade, situated near the north-west border of the lake of Nicaragua ; and in a sandy plain, at the foot of a volcanic mountain, gcveral leagues from the sea. From New Spain we must return northward, for tlio purpose of describing tha Biiti:^!* dominion^ of Novu fcJcotia and Canatb. BRITISH AMERICAN DOMINIONS. fs a province bounded on the east by the ^nff of St. jMwrcHcc, on the south by the Atlantic, and on the west by the United States. It is somewhat more than two hundred miles long, and one hundred a) id seventy miles broad. The southern division is a peninsula ol triangular foruj, having an isthmus not more than thirty miles in breadth. Nova Scotia is divided into counties, and subdivided into townships; and, in the whole, contains somewhat more than fifty thousand in- habitants. The climate is imliealthy. During a considerable part of the year, the maritime and lower districts arc- enveloped in fog. The cold of winter is intense, and the heat of summer excessive. The soil is various. In many parts it is thin, barren, gravelly, and covered with forests : in others, cspic ially on the borders of the rivers, it is fertile and ai^ieeable. Some of the tracts yield hemp and flax : but thi- inhabitants have not hitherto made much progress m agriculture, Nova Scoliu has CANADA. t63 many bays and harbours ; but much of the coast is bordered with dangerous rocks. Great numbers of cod-Bsh are caught in some of the bays, and in many parts of the sea adjacent to the coast. Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, wa* built about the year 1749. It is now a nourishing town on the sea-coast, and has an excellent harbour, accessible at all seasons of the year, and with depth of water and anchorage suBlcient for the largest vessels. The town u about two miles in length, and a quarter of a mile in width ; and is laid out in oblong squares, and in streets that run parallel or at right angles to each other. It is defended by forts of timber, and contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. At its northern extremity IS the royal arsenal, which ift weU buill^ and imply supplied with naval ttoreti. '\\ CANADA, If an exteitive but thinly-peopled district, lying be- tween the same parallels of latitude as France and England, but in a climate infinitely more severe. During winter the frost is intense, and the surface of the ground is covered with snow to the depth of several feet. In many parts of the country, however, the sum- mers are hot and pleasant. The boundaries of Canada are, the United States on tlie south; the Atlantic Ocean, Labrador, and Hud- son's Bay, on tlt« east and north; and a wild and undescribed region on the west. This country is divided into t\No provinces of Upper and Lower Canada : the executive power in each province is vested in z. governor; and a legislative council and an assembly are appointed for each, having power, with the consent of the governor, to make laws. In the legislative council of Lower Canada, tliore are tiftivn jnembers ; and in that of Upper Canada seven ; and the appointments are for life. In the assembly of Lower Canada there art' fifty members ; and in that of Upper N '■( UL'- ^ 26G CWAHA. Canada sixtcon: tlicso iiiv diosrn by iho frocljoldjrN. and do tiot continue in ofHcc loni^or than Tour ytars. Canada was originally discovered by Sebastian Ta- bot, a navigator sent out by th«' Knglish about tlu' year 14!J7; but in the beginning of the seventeenth centmv, it was colonized by the French, who kept posst ssion ol it till the year 17().3, when it I'ell into the; hands ol' thi' British, to whom it still belongs. I'he long possession of this country by the I'rcnch, has occasioned the Frniili fnngfuige inho chieHy spoken: it has also occasioned the j)revailing religion to bo Honian Catholic. 'I'lic Rrifish government permilK a toleration of all religions; but by far the greatest n\mib(;r of inhabitants are catho- lics. The clergy of the church of England, in both provinces, are oidy twelve in number, inehuling the bishop of Quebec ; whereas, those »)f the church of Rome amount to one Inmdred and tvvcatv, includin o' /^ on Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 /. rf> 'i^- \ €■ ^ 268 A DESCRIPTION OP QUEB£C. dant that, after a shower of rain, the ground glitters with them. I'he Lower Town of Quebec is built at the foot of the heights; and the Upper Town occupies their crest. The former, snug and dirty, is the abode of persons en- gaged in trade, and of most of the lower classes : the latter, lofty and cold, is the seat of government, and the principal residence of the military. With few exceptions, the houses in Quebec are built of stone. The roofs of the better sort are covered with sheets of iron or tin, and those of an inferior descrip- tion, with boards. On the roofs ladders are usually placed, n'^jar the garret-windows, for the purpose of the chimney-sweepers ascending, on the outside, to clean the chimneys : for, in this country boys do not go up the chimneys, as in England; but two men, one at the top and the other at the bottom, sweep them, by puUing up and down a bundle of twigs or furze, tied to a rope. The streets of the Lower Town arc, for the most part, narrow and irregular. St. Peter's street is the best paved, and the widest of the whole. It contains several good and substantial kouseSt which are chiefly occupied by merchants and traders ; but, from the colour of the stone of which the houses are constructed, and of the iron roofs, all the streets of Quebec have a heavy and gloomy appearance. A street, called Mountain Street, which leads to the Upper Town, winds, in a serpentine direction, from the market-place up the hill, and terminates near the Uppe; Town market-place. This street, in winter, is ex- tremely dangerous. The quantity of snow and ice, wliich here accumulate in large masses, renders it n'^- eessary for the inhabitants to wear outer shoes, that are shod with iron spikes. The boys of Quebec have a favourite amusement, in lying at full length with their breast upon a small kind of sledge, and sliding alon<; the snow, from the top of the hill to the bottom : tlu y r^'OiRTia A.V.lEKJl'A. CATAHACT OF XIAfVARA. * s 'Ui'f ^^ *«-i.k m 'W: •Jili w leet, 1 Th do nc peara Strang casern any si cles o: ever, i tails, The is mu( serve the va to des by the the w glasses Of J tant is large, ; open J semble land ; apartm the sui house s house, tion. t'nion connme Tlie Quebec width, Town 1 the Lo\ much s< f'ortable A DESCRIPTION OF QUEBEC. 569 elide down with astonishing velocity; yet, with their keU they can guide or stop themselves, at pleasure. The shops or stores of the traders in the Lower Town, do not exhibit any of that diversified and pleasing ap- pearance which is so remarkable in London. Here the stranger sees nothing but heavy stone buildings, gloomy casements, and iron-cased shutters, painted red. If any show is made at the window, it is with paltry arti- cles of cooking, earthen and hardware : there is, how- ever, a tolerable display of bear-skins, seal-skins, foxes'- tails, and buffalo-robes. The taverns in Quebec are numerous ; yet a stranger is much surprised to find only two houses which de- serve that high-sounding appellation. This arises from tlie vanity that possesses all our trans-atlantic brethren, to designate their paltry public-houses or spirit-shops> by the more dignified title of '-tavern;" for through the whole of America, every dirty hole, where a few glasses of rum, gin, or whisky, are sold, is so called. Of the public buildings in Quebec, the most impor- tant is the government-house, or castle of St. Louis, a large, plain, stone edifice, which forms one side of an open place or square, called the parade. Its front re- sembles that of a country gentleman's house in Eng- land; and the interior contains comfortable family apartments. The furniture is inherited and paid for by the succf \sive owners. Opposite to the government- house stand the English cathedral church, and the court- house, both handsome buildings of modern construc- tion. The other sides of the parade are formed by the Union Hotel, and a row of buildings which form the commencement of St. Louis Street. The Upper Toivn is by far the most agreeable part of Quebec: its streets are not, indeed, remarkable for width, but many of them are well paved, hi the Upper Town the heat, during summer, is not so intense as in the Lower Town ; nor, in winter, though the cold is much severer, is it, as a residence, so dreary and uncom- fortable. ■4| '■■'f \ m!I m ^%^ ir n7, lor the acconnnodation and relief oi poor sick pe()})le ; it is under tlie nianajrcnnent of a su- perior and thirty-six nuns. The "General Hospital,' v\!i'ch stands at a little distance from the town, is a somewhat similar institution ; and is governed by a su- perior and forty-three nuns. In the admission of pa- tients into each of these establishments, no distinction h made, as to catholics or protestants. The Ursulinc convent, founded in HJu<), for the education of fcmalo children, stands with.n the city, and has a considerahK appearance of wealth. Among the ornaments of tlK- clia})el arc the skull and bones of a missionary, who had bee a murdered by the I adians for attempting their con- version. About two miles from the town is a break in the line of clirts, which forms a little recess, called Wolf's Cove, \ steep pathway leads thence to the heights of the plains of Abram. On these plains are still to be seen, in the turf, traces of field-works, which were thrown u)) by the iJritish army, in the celebrated siege of Quebec; and a stone is pointed out as that on which General \Volf ex])ired. The markets of Quebec are well supjdicd with every tiling that the country aftbrds ; and, in g(;neral, at a very cheap rate. In the autumn, as soon as the river betwixt the town and the island of Orleans, is frozen over, an abundance of provisions is received from that island. The Canadians, a* the commencement of v.in- tcr, kill the greatest part of their stock, and carry it to market in a frozen st£»te. The inhabitants of the towns supply themselves, at this season, with butcher's me;;t. poultry, and vegetables, to serve them till spring. These are kept in garrets or cellars; and, so long as they continue frozen, their goodness is j)rcservi:(l. Before they are prepared for the tabic, they are laic! tor some hours in cold water, to be thawed. In winter- time, milk is brought to market in large frozen cakes A DESCRIPTION OF QUEBrC. :?1 ^aritalle in- [oiel Dicu,' nd rt'liof u\ 2\\t of a su- l Hospi^1l. ' ; town, is a lhI by a su- ;sion oi'pa- listinction is lie Ursulinc )n of fcinalt' considerabK lents of tlio vy, vvho had ig their con- k in the Hne Wolfs Cove. itrhts of the to be seen, e thrown u]) of Quebec ; ich General il with every ;neral, at a as tlic river ns, is frozen d from that nent of win- carry it to of the towns Leber's meat, till spring. so long :;> prcservtd. are laid lor In winter- Jen c Likes. Ureal (jiuuitities of niaple-siij^ar are sold, in Quebec, it about half tlie ])rice of West Intlia sugar. Tht; inanui'aet tiring of this article takes place in tiie spring. The saj) or juice, after it has been drawn from the trees, is boiled, and then poured into shallow dishes, where it takes the form of a thick and hard cake. Maple-sugar js very liard; and, when used, is scraped v.ith a knife, as, otherwise, it would be a long time in dissolving. The fruit of Canada is not remarkable either tor ex- cellence or cheapness. Strawberries and rasj)berries are, however, brought to market in great abiuulaiice: they are gathered on the plains, at the back of Quebec, atid in the neighbouring woods, where they grow wild, in tJie utmost luxuriance. Apples and pears are chieHy procured from the vicinity of Montreal. Wal- nuts and filberts are by no means common; but hicko- ry-nuts and hazel-nuts are t? be obtained in all the woods. The climate of Lower Canada is subject to violent extremes of heat and cold. At Quebec, the thermonu - ter, in summer, is sometimes as high as 1 O.J degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer; and, in wiiuer, is at 3li degrees below 0. The average of summer heat is, in general, from 75 to 80 degrees; and the mean of the cold, in winter, is about 0. From Christmas to Lady-day the weather is remark- ably clear and fine; the sky is of an azure blue colour, and seldom obscured by fogs or clouds; and the frost is not often interrupted by falls of snow or rain. These advantages render a Canadian winter so agree- able, thr.t the inhabitants, from sudden alterations of the weather, are never under the necessity of changing their style of dress, unless it be to discard their great- coats and fur-caps, which, in consequence of the pow- erful warmth of the sun, is sometimes necessary. In the early part of the winter there is always much snow. The spring, summer, and autumn of Canada, are all comprised within the five months of May, June, July. m \m iij Bi ii«' A iiKM iNH: W^ "J I' < r 272 HALLS JOURNEY FROM August, and September. Tlie rest of the year may he considered as winter. During the month of Octobrt. the weather is sometimes pleasant, but nature has tl.cn put on her gloomy mantle; and the chilling blasts, from the north-west, remind the Canadians of the ap- proach of snow and ice. November and April are tin two most disagreeable months of the year: in one ui these the snow is beginning to fall, and in the other it is going away. Mr. Hall's Journey from Quebec to Montreal. Mr. Hatl was in Canada during the summer of 1816; and, on ihe 28th of July, he left Quebec, on a journey to Montreal. He deviated somewhat from the usual road, '■ r October, e has thfii ng blasts, j{' the ap- )ril are tin in one «•! ie other it ntreal. r of 1816: J a journey the usual tier bridge. ; the river ores; and, ugh a nar- id rock, to its bed, is by natural ues Cartier caught of he bridge where the jpper, and >rrent, be- his neigh- e becomes irection of hfF, which ing to the ay be con- there is 3 n breadth, dded with farm-houses, wliite-washed from top to bottom: to these, log-barns and stables are attached, and common- ly a neat plot of garden-ground. Mr. Hall preferred the travelling in Lower Canada to that in every other part of the American continent. You arrive (he says) Zi* the post-house, (as the word* •' maixon de poste" scrawled over the door, give you notice;) "Have you horses, Madame?" " Oui^ Mori' sleur, tout de suite." A loud cry of" Ok! bon hwmne,'* forwards the intelligence to her husband, at work, perhaps, in an adjacent field. '* Maisy asseyez votts, Monsieur;" and, if you have patience to do this quietly, for a few minutes, jou will see crebillion, papillon, or some other on arrive, at a full canter, from pasture, mounted by honest Jean, in his blue nightcap, with all his habiliments shaking in the wind. 'I'he preliminary of splicing and compounding the broken harness hav- ing been adjusted, the whip cracks, and you start to the exhilarating cry of '• marche done" at the rate of six, and often seven miles an hour." The village of " Trois Rivieres" stands at the three mouths of the River St. Maurice. It contains an Ur- suline convent, which marks it for a place of some note, in a catholic country; but it is still more worthy of distinction, as being the residence of the amiable Abbe de la Colonno, brother to the unfortunate French minister of that name. Having engaged two experienced boat-men, and a bark canoe, Mr. Hall ascended the St. Maurice, to visit the falls of Shawinne GaimnCy distant somewhat more than twenty miles. At his return, he left the St. Maurice, and, having been ferried from Berthier to Contrecoeur, he proceeded, " en caleche" with two cre- billions, towards St. Ours, in the direction of the Bel' leil Mountain, which was seen before him in the misty horizon. The meadows were profusely decorated with orange lilies ; and the banks and dingles with the crim- son cones of the sumac, and a variety of flowering shrubs. Several brigs and merchants' ships were drop- N 3 m. I'l" m n .i7i LI .->LUll'riON 01- MUNTRI. \I.. piiii^ down w illi tlic tlilr, their t'lDwilt'd saily .>c'ariul\ swelling in the languid suunner bieezo. The Canadian sunnner, observes Mr. Ilall, is hot in proj)ortion to tlie severity ol' the winter; and tlic [via is sutlicient to enable the cultivator to raise Indian corn, water-uielons, gour country assumes the aspect of a Portuguese sunnner, by way of appendix to a Ilussian winter. Mr. Ilall passed through the village of Belail ; again crossed the river, and proceeded towards the mountain, which towered, like an iniinense wall of rock, above the flat surrounding country. Scattered at its base were a few wretched houses, the inhabitants of which subsisted by the produce of their aj)})le-or- chards. The weather was excessively hot; and volumes of smoke, from the casual, or intentional burning of the woods, every whore clouded the horizon, and seemed to give additional heat to the glowing landscape. 'Ihe babis of the Mo/iircal Mountain is freestone; the asci-nt is consequently less steep, and the surface less })roken, than that of Bckuil : it is thickly w ooded, and, from the river, forms an elegant back-ground to the citv. A Description of Montreal. Whin apj)roached from the water, the town of ^lanl- /cal, which is situated on an island in the River .St. Lawrence, has a very singular appearance. This is occasioned by the grey stone of the buildings, and their tin-covered roofs; the latter of which emit u strung glare, when the sun shines. The shore is stcej», and forms a kind of natural w harf, upon which the vessels discliarge their cargoes: hence the shijiping which frequent the harbour of Montreal are often an- chored close to tlie shore. ]\Iany English vessels visit tills jilace; but the navigation of the St. Lawrence, A DESCKII'TION OF MONTREAL. 275 II, is hot 111 lid tlif li<;ii list' Intliaii such W'^v- llciu'c tin- se summer, of Belail ; )\vartls the se wall of Scattcrtd inhabitants r apple-or- volumcs of ninjif of ihc [incl seemed ape. freestone ; the surface ly wooded, -ground to ri of Mofit- 2 Kiver .St. 'I'his is dings, and ich emit n re is «tee}), wliich the ? sliippin!j[ e often an- esscls visit Lawrence, above Quebec, is so liazardous, that few captains are wilhng to make tlie voyage a second time. The interior of the town of Montreal is extremely gloomy. 'I'he slrccls are regularly built, but the buildings are ponderous masses of stone, erected with little taste, and less judgment. Including the garrets, they have seldom more thaii two stories above the ground-Hoor. The doors and window-shutters are covered with large sheets of tin, painted red or lead- colour, and corresponding with the gloomy colour of the stone, with whicli most of the houses have been built ; bence a heavy sameness of appearance pervadeis all the streets. The only open places in tlie town, are the two mar- kets, and a scpiare, called the Place d'Armes, in which, under the French government, the troops of the gar- rison are accustomed to parade. The French catholic church occupies the whole east side of the scjuare; and, on the south side, is a tavern, called the Montreal Hotel. Every thing, in this tavern, is neat, cleanly, well conducted, and perfectly agreeable to an English- man's taste. Montreal is divided into the Upper and Lower towns, thougli these have very little difference in eleva- tion. The principal street of the latt(!r, extends, from north to south, through the whole length of the place. This street contains the wholesale and retail stores of the merchants and traders, the lower market-place, the post-office, the Hotel Dieu, a large tavern, and several smaller ones. It is narrow, but it presents a scene of greater bustle than any other part of the town; and is the chief mart of the trade carried on in Montreal. Most of the streets are well paved; and the im- i)rovements which are going on throughout the town, will, in a few years, render it much more connnodious and agreeable than it is at present. The four streets or suburbs occupy a considerable space of ground, and the number of inhabitants is computed at twelve thou- sand. The relisious and charitable institutions of thia ImT ■I ur^' n. ' a. **. i i!' rfi: I ?7o K riESCRlPTlOS OF MONTREAL. placf, are counterparts to those at Quebec. There arc ;i general hospital, and an Hotel Dieu, for the relief ot sick poor. The principal catholic church is rich ami Iiandsome. The college or seminary, is a capacious .stono building, and has lately been repaired and en- larged. It was originally endowed as a branch of the seminary at Paris; but, since the French Revolution, it has aflbrded an asylum to several members of the latter, whose learning and talents have been employed in its advancement. Among other public edifices must be reckoned the English church, an unfinished build- ing ; the old monastery of Franciscan Friars, now con- verted into barracks; the court-house, and the govern- ment-house. The court-house is a neat and spacious building. In front of it, a column has been erected in honour of Lord Nelson, and is crowned with a statue of him. Near the court-house a gaol has been built, upon the site of the old college of Jesuits. There seems to be a greater spirit of municipal im- provement in Montreal than in Quebec. It is also, probably, a richer place; for, being the emporium of the fur- trade, its merchants carry on a considerable traffic with the United States, and particularly with Vermont and New York. At the back of the town, and behind the court-house, is a parade, where the troops are exercised. The ground, along this part, is considerably elevated, and forms a steep bank, several hundred yards in length. Here the inhabitants walk in an evening, and enjoy a beautiful view of the suburbs of St. Lawrence and St. Antoine ; p.nd of numerous gardens, orchards, and plantations, adorned with neat, and, in many instances, even handsome villas. Green fields are interspersed amidst this rich variety of objects, which are concen- trated in an extensive valley, that gradually rises to- wards a lofty mountain, about two miles and a half distant; and covered, towards its upper part, with trees and shrubs. It is from this mountain that the town obtained its name of Montreal, or " Royal Mount." here aro relief ot rich and apacious and en- h of the volution, TS of the jmploypd ^ces must ed build- now con- e ffovern- I spacious n erected h a statue )een built, licipal im- [t is also, >orium of nsidcrable arly with Lirt-housp, cd. Tiic ated, and n length, id enjoy a ence and ards, and instances, ;ei*spersed concen- rises to- id a half ith trees the town imt." THE ROUTE FROM MONTREAL, JLc. 277 All the principal north-west merchants reside in this town; which is the emporium of their trade, and the grand mart of the commerce carried on between Canada and the United States: tiiey live in a splendid style, and keep expensive tables. The markets of Montreal are plentifully supplied with provisions, which are much cheaper here than in Quebec. Large supplies are brouj^ht in, every winter, from the United States; particularly cod-fish, wliich is packed in ice, and conveyed in sledges from Boston. Two weekly newspapers, called the Gazette and the Canadian Courant, are published here. At Montreal, the winter is considered to be two months shorter than it is at Quebec; and the lieat of summer is more oppressive. Wix)tntpt\)ivti l!daf0 3l"^tnicfioiu NORTH WESTERN TERRITORY. The Route, from Montreal lo Fort Chqye/vyany pursued by a company of traders^ called the North-west Com- pany. The requisite number of canoes being purchased, the goods being formed into packages, and the lakes and rivers being free from ice, which they usually are in the beginning of May, the persons employed by the North-west Company set out from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal. Each canoe carries eight or ten men, and a luggage consisting of sixty-five packages of goods, about six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, and three bushels of peas, for the men's pro- ft"" \ #• i„'«<<,L !<) i ■■ J*78 THE KOUTL FKOM .MONTREAL visions: two oil-cloths to cover tlie goods, a sail, and an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a sponge to hail out the water; together with a quantity of gum, hark, and watape, to repair the canoe. An European, on seeing these slender vessels, thus laden, heaped up, and their sides not more than six inches out of the water, would imagine it impossible that they should perform a long ami perilous voyage ; but the Canadians are so expert in the management of them, that few accidents haj)pen. Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two nnlcs of the western extremity of the island of Montreal. At the rapid of St. Ann, the navigators are oblijied to take out part, if not the whole of the lading; and to replace it when they have passed the cataract. The Lake of the two Mountains, which they next reach, is about twenty miles long, but not more than three miles wide, and is nearly smrounded by cultivated hclds. At the end of the lake, the water contracts into the Vtawas river ; which, after a course of fifteen miles, IS interrupted by a succession of rapids and cascades for upwards of ten miles: at the foot of these the Canadian Seignories terminate. Here the voyagers are frccjuently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry the goods rpon their hacks, or rather suspended in slings from their heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though some of the men carry three. In some places, the ground v.ill not admit of their car- rying the whole at once : in this case, they make two trips ; that is, th? men leave half their lading, land it at the distance required, and then return for that which was left. There are three carrying places; and, near the last of thor the river is a mile and a half uide, and has a regular current, for about sixty miles, to tlu' lirst portage de Cnamlierc. The wliole body of water is here precipitated, twenty-five feet, down craggy and excavated rocks, and in a most wild aiu! romantic manner. N( TO FORT ClIEPEWYAN. '*7 , tind ) l)uil bark, n, on ), and vatrr, rform ire so idents within ind of jrators of the ed the ;h they t more led by ito the miles, Hscades 'SO the agers s, and tended y load three, ir car- e two land it which , near wide, to the dy of down I au() Over this poitair cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the trihe to which they belong. These marks are either tatooed, or are made by drawing a thread, dipped in colour, beneath the skin. Few people arc more attentive to the comforts of dress than these. In winter they wear the skins of deer or fawns, prepared with the hair on, and rendered as fine and soft as chamois leather. In summer their apparel is of similar skins, but prepared without the hair. A rufi' or tippet surrounds the neck ; and the skin of the head of a deer forms a curious kind of cap. Plurality of wives is allowed among the Chepewyans ; and the ceremony of marriage is very simple. At a very early period, the girls are betrothed to such per- sons as the parents consider best able to support them. The desires of the women are never considered; and whenever a separation takes place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the will of the hus- band. These Indians are not remarkahle for activity as hunters: this is owing to the ease with which they snare deer, and spear fish. They arc not addicted to the use of spirituous liquors ; and are, on the whole, an ex- tremely peaceful tribe. Their weapons and domestic apparatus, in addition to articles procured from Euro- peans, are spears, bows and arrows, fishing-nets, and lines made of deer-skin thongs. Their amusements arc but few. Their music is so inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed to be ashamed of both, as they seldom practise either. They shoot at marks, and play at ditferent games; but they prefer sleeping to any of these : and the greatest part of their time is passed in procuring food, and rest- ing after tl;e toil of obtaining it. The notioii which these people entertain of the crca- av:' vers } blue or on tlu'ir :o which , or are beneath ; of (b'css deer or id as fine • apparel hair. A in of the lewyans ; 0. x\t a such per- »rt them, red; and ometimes the hus- tivity as ey snare o the use an ex- domestic Euro- lets, and uscments ous, and upposed e either, nes; but greatest md rcKt- he crea- AND CIIETEWYAN INDIAN'S. 287 tion of the world is a very singular one. They bcliovc that the re so devoid of understanding, as to carry it away ; and this sacrilege so enraged the bird, that he has never since appeared. They believe also, that, in ancient times, their ancestors lived till their feet were worn out with walking, and their throats with eating ; and they describe a deluge, in which the waters spread over the whole earth, except the highest mountains, on the tops of which the Chepewyans preserved themselves. Hiey are su^^erstitious in an extreme; and almost every action of their lives, however trivial, is more or less influenced by'somc superstitious notion. They be- lieve in a good and evil spirit; and in a future state of rewards and punishments. They assert that the souls of persons deceased pass into another world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark, in a stone canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on t j an extensive lake, in the centre of which is a beautit'ul island. Within view of this island they receive that judgment for their conduct during life, wliich tenuiiKUes their state. If their good actions predominate, they are landed upon the island, where there is to be no ei\d ol' their happiness. But if their bad actions prevail, the stone canoe sinks, and haves them uj) to thoir ciiins iti the water, to behold and regret the reward whiv-h is en- :.pj 'if ^ 1 ;Hi II •K'' u >i|4 III •IIPs m ■'' *i '\M w 288 Mackenzie's voyage from ciiepewyan joyed by the good ; and eternally to struggle, but with unavailing endeavours, to reach the bliss from which they are for ever excluded. NORTH-WESTERN TERRITORY CONCLUD^iD. Fort Chepewyan was, for eight years, the head quar- ters of Mr. (now Sir Alexander) Mackenzie, who held an official situation under the North-west Company ; and who, from this place, made two important and la- borious excursions, one northward, to the Frozen Sea , and the other westward, to the Pacific Ocean. Narrative of a Voyage from Fort Chepervyan, along t/u. Rivers to the north Frozen Ocean, From Voyage^ through the Continent of North America, by Alexan- der 1^IACKENZIE. In the first of his excursions, Mr Mackenzie embarked at Fort Chepenyany about nine o'clock in the morning of the Sd of June, 1 789. His vessel was a canoe formed of birch-bark, and his crew consisted of one German and four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their wives. He was also accompanied, in a small canoe, by an Indian chief and his two wives. The men were en- gaged to serve in the twoibld capacity of interpreters and hunters. Mr. Mackenzie had also with him a canoe which he had equipped for he purpose of trade, and had given in charge to M. Le Roux, one of the Company's clerks. In this canoe was shipped part of his provision, the clothing necessary on the voyage, a requisite assort- ment of articles of merchandise as presents, to ensure TO T»E NORTH FROZEN OCEAN. 2$!) ''^"J but witli m which It. lead quar- who held Ilompany ; nt and la- ozen Sea , 1, along the \n Voyage^ Alexan- embarked morning loe formed :rman and by tlicir canoe, by- were en- iterpreters which he I had given ly's clerks. asion, the lie assort- to ensure them a friendly reception amon*^ the Indians ; and such arms and ammimition as were considered necessary for defence, as well as for the use of tlic hunters. CrossinjT tlic soutli-westcrn extremity of the Lake of the llillsy they entered tlie Slave river, and steered, along that river, in a nortlierly direction. On the on- sning day they arrived at the foot of a succession of rapids ; and, in the conrse of twelve miles, were obliged five times to unload the canoes, and carry the luggage considerable distances overland. One of the Indi;Mi canoes was borne, by the fury of the current, down the last of the cataracts, and was dashed to pieces. The hunters here killed seven geese, four ducks, and a beaver. The progress of the boats was much impeded by ice. The banks of the river, both above and below the rapids, were covered with wood. This was more j)ar- licularly the case on the western side, where the land was low, and had a black and rich soil. The eastern banks were somewhat elevated; and the soil was a yellow clay, mixed with gravel. At a little distancr trom the banks were extensive plains, frequented by numerous herds of buffaloes ; and the woods, adjacent to the river, weie inhabited by elks and rein-deer. The habitations of beavers were seen in all the small lakes and rivers; and the swamps adjacent to the Slave- river, weVe sometimes covered with wild-fowl. In the morning of the 9th the voyagers arrived at thf Great Slave Lake. Here they experienced a most un- comfortable change in the weather, whicli became ex- tremely cold. The lake was still frozen; and they were obliged to delay their progress foi several days, until they could etiect a passage across it. In the mean while they occupied themselves in fishing and hunting, for the purpose of adding to tlu'ir stock of provisions. '. ney had more or less rain almost every day. On the ;20th the ice had somewhat given way, and fhey recommenced their voyage, in a north-westerly o ;f li li «l», ''i In:, liV J I' m U90 MACKKNzn: s vovAoi; from ciiltkutan iliroction. A few days uiutv this, iliey landed on ihc main land, at three lod/jfes of Red-knife Indians, so called from the copper knives wiiich they use. M. Ic Uoux purchased, of tlu^se Indians, some parks of beaver and martin-skins; and Mr. Mackenzie had several con- sultations with them concerning the country he was about to traverse ; but he could obtain from them no information that was important to the objects of his cx- ])edition. lie, however, enj^ai^ed one of them, as a guide, in navigating the bays of the lake. The musquitoes were now so troublesome as to oc- casion the voyagc^rs nmch inconvenience. After havinu, with considerable diiliculty, navigated the northern side of the lake, they entered the mouth of a river, which lay in a westerly direction. On the 2d of July, they perceived, at a distance before them, a high mountain, or rather a cluster of mountains, which stretched south- ward, as far as the view could reach, and had their tops lost in the clouds. The declivities of these moun- tains were covered with wood ; and tlu>y w<,'re s])rinkU'(l \\ ith glistening patches of snow, which, at lirst, Mr. Mackenzie mistook for white stones. During their progress the voyagers saw several Indian encampments. The current, in some places, was so rapid as to produce a hissing noise, somewhat like the boiling of a kettle. Though it was now the month of July, the weather was extremely cold. The sun set at seven miinites before ttni, and rose at seven minutes before two in the morning. Having passe( r. fi of the in inter- They ihildren, ce; but ch blue er land, the dis- ,) to ha Indeed, general, [, and in fir-trees irds the s of the It a loss ' course was in- )serving onsider- Indian out fif- middle, o stai.d id wts bed for wo feet ch, five reep on curious a hole, 2 three- sionally a door. Tliese edifices were formed of wood, covered with branches and f(rass. On each side of the huts were a iew square lioles in the jrround, probably con- trived for the preservation of the winter stock of pro- visions. On the 12th of July, the voynajers had reached what they imagined to be an immense lake; and, shortly after they had retired to rest, at ni'^ht, the m u on watch called them up, to remove the baggage, on account of the sudden rising of the water. Some fish were after- wards caught, about the size of a hciring, and resem- bling a species offish which abounds in Hudson's Bay. On the ensuing day, Mr. Mackenzie ascended an ad- jacent hill, and saw much ice; and, towards the north- west, two small islands in the ice. On the 14th, many animals were seen in the water, which, at fiist, were supposed to be pieces of floating-ice, but which were afterwards ascertained to be whales. Hence it became evident that this apparent lake was a part of the Northern Ocean. Mr. Mackenzie sailed upon it, to some distance from the shore, and landed at the eastern extremity of an island, which he called IVI ale Island^ and which was about seven U^agues in length, but not more than a mile broad. The ebbina: and flowmj; of the tide were here observed. He subsequer.Hy latided on another island, where an Indian burying-place was observed. The latitude of the shore of this northern ocean, was ascertained to be 69 degrees 14 minutes, north; and the longitude 135 degrees, west. Narrative of the Return of Mk. Mackenzie Jrom the Frozen Ocea?i to Fort Chcpcivyan. This gentlemen embarked, on his rclurn, at half-past one o'clock, of the 2 1st of July, the weather being ex- tremely cold and unpleasant. At ten, the canoes re- entered the river; but the opposing current was so Htrong, that the men were obliged, for a considerable distance, to tow them along. The land on both sides ,M % i! H II »' 'iU *"''l ill m aoe MACKENZIE S RETURN was elevated, and almost perpendicular. Much raia fell. Mr. Mackenzie subsequently encamped near an In- dian village, the inhabitants of which were at first con- siderably alarmed. They afterwards, however, became familiar. Some of them, having kindled a lire, laid themselves round it, to sleep; and, notwithstanding the excessive coldness of the climate, they bad neither skins nor garments to cover them. The people of this nation are continually at variance with the Esquimaux, who are said to take every oppor- tunity of attacking them, when not in a state to defend themselves. From their account it appeared that a strong party of Esquimaux occasionally ascended tht river, in large canoes, to search for flint-stones, whicii they used as points I'or their spears and arrows. These Esquimaux were said to wear their hair short; and to have a hole perforated on each side of their mouth, in a line with the under lip, and to place beads in the holes, by way of ornament. Their weapons were bows, arrows, and spears; but they also used slings, from which they threw stones with great dexterity. I'he weather was now fine; and Mr. Mackenzie and his men renewed their voyage on the 27th of July. At seven o'clock they once more reached the rapids. Here they found three families of Indians, from whom they obtained some information respecting the adjacent country, and particularly respecting a river which was stated to run on the opposite side of the mountains, in a westerly direction; and which, from the description given of it, Mr. Mackenzie conjectured to be that called Cook's River. At a subsequent interview, with another party of Indians, a misunderstanding took place, in which the Indians seized one of Mr. Mackenzie's boats, and dragged it on shore. Peace, however, being restored, Mr. Mackenzie endeavoured to obtain some further intelligence concerning the river to the westward. His enquiries, however, were to little purpose. The ac- coi the TO FORT ClIEPEWYAy. 297 count jTivcn by these Indians was very vaq^ue; and their description of the inhabitants of the country ad- jacent to it, was extremely absurd. I'hese, it was stated, were of gigantic stature, and furnished with wings ; which, however, tliey never employed in fly- ing: that they fed on large birds, which they killed with the greatest ease; though common men would be the certain victims of the voracity of such birds. The Indians also described the people who inhabited the mouth of the river, as possessing the extraordinary power of killing with their eyes; and as each being able to devour a large beaver at a single meal. 1 hey added that canoes, or vessels of immense size, visited that place. They did not, however; pretend to relate these particulars from their own observation, but from the report of ccher Indians ; for they had themselves never ventured beyond the first range of mountains, from their oven dwellings. It, however, appeared to Mr. Mackenzie t^at, either the Indians knew more of this country than they chose to communicate, or that his interpreter, who had long been tired of the voyage, gave him purposely a wrong account, in order that he might not be induced to extend his excursions. As soon as the conference was ended, the Indians began to dance; and, in this pastime, old and young, male and female, continued their exertions, till their strength was exhausted. Their actions were accom- panied by various noises, in imitation of the rein-deer, the bear, and the wolf. When the dancing was ended, Mr. Mackenzie as- sumed an angry tone, expressed his suspicions that information had been purposely withheld from him; and concluded with a threat, that if they did not give him a more satisfactory account, he would compel one of them to accompany him, for the purpose of pointing out the road to the other river. No sooner did they hear this declaration, than they all, in a moment, became sick ; and answered, in a faint tone, that they knew no more than what they had already communicated, Find- • 3 ^; m ''5 r ri •:!: »t !•< > ' n* M i ' i»i '"t'in \ If i'|: m I:i8| ^^) ftes MACKENZIES' RETURN, &C. ing it useless to persevere in his enquiries, he ccafieoo TUL WESTERN C0A6T OF AMERICA. of the bow, and subsist cliicfly by hunting and fishing;. Their skin is dark, and they paint their bodies, by way of ornament: they also pierce their ears, and wear ii, tlieni trinkets of various kinds. The weaUliicst of them wear cloaks made of sea-otter skins, which cover the loins, and reach below their middle. Others, how- ever, have only a piece of cloth round their waist, and a little cloak, formed of rabbet-skin, which covers their shoulders, and is tied beneath tlie chin. The huts of these Indians are tho most miserable that can be imagined. Their form is circular; and about six feet wide and four feet high. In the construction of them, stakes, eight or ten feet long, are driven into the ground, and are brought together so as to form an arcli at the top; and trusses of straw, badly arranged upon these stakes, defend the inhabitants from the wind and rain. Near the Spanish settlement of Monferrei/, in north latitude '30 degrees 35 minutes, M. de la Perouse, the French navigator, states that the soil is tolerably fer- tile and productive; and the climate is mild, though foggy. This part oi' California produces, in abundance, olives, figs, pomegranates, grapes, and peaches; the trees of which have all been planted by the missionaries. Beyond Montcrry, the interior of the country is covered witli immense forests of pines and other trees. North of California is Neiv Albioft, a country so calleti by Sir Francis Drake, who originally discovered it m the ycrtr 1578. It was visited about two hundred years afterwards, by Captain Cook. The country is mountainous; and, during the winter and spring, the mountains are covered with snow. 'The valleys and the grounds along the sea-coast, are clad with trees, and appear like a vast forest. Captain Cook sailed northward along the coast of New Albion, and anchored his vessels in an inlet called Noctka Soutid. Thk. inhabitants of the adjacent country approached his ships, and offered for sale the skins of various animals ; garments of different kinds, some o! Tlir- WrSTERX COAST OF AMERICA. 301 fur, and otlicrs formed of the bark of trees. But, of all the articles brou<]^ht to market, the most extraordinary, were human skulls, and hands not quite stripped of their flesh, some of whicli had evident marks of having been upon the fire. The articles which the natives took, in exchange for their commodities, were knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind of metal. Though the commerce was, in general, carried on with mutual honesty, there were some among these people who were much inclined to theft. And thny were extremely dangerous thieves ; for, possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the moment that the backs of the English were turned ; and the dexterity with which they conducted their operations of this nature, frequently eluded the most cautious vigilance. In the progress of the com- merce, they would deal for nothing but metal ; and, at length, brass was so eagerly sought for, in pre- ference to iron, that, before the navigators quitted the place, scarcely a bit of brass was left in the ships, ex- cept what belonged to the different instruments. Whole suits of clothes were stripped of efery button; bureaus were deprived of their furniture ; copper-kettles, tin- canisters, candlesticks, and whatever of the like kind could be found, all were seized and carried off. On Captain Cook's first arrival in this inlet, he had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound; but as it was called Nooika, by the natives, the latter appel- lation has since been generally adopted. The climate appeared to be much milder than that on the east coast of America, in the same parallel of latitude. With re- gard to trees, those of which the woods are chiefly com- posed, are the Canadian pine and white cypress; of the land animals, the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The sea animals, which were seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, seals, and sea- otters. Birds, in general, were iiot only rare as to the different species, but few in number. I ill * I r,i i| hi: ill j r > j if '1 'ii 111 •■■ r I i M ij 'III ii02 THE WESTERS COAST OF AMERICA. With respect to tlie inhal)itants, their persons arc ge- nerally under the common stature; but they are usually full or plump, though without beinjr muscular. From their brin^'in^ to sale human skulls and bones, it may be inferred that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal cruelty. To the navigators, however, they appeared to be a docile, courteous, and good-natured people. The chief employments of the men, were those of fishing, and of killing land or sea animals for the sustenance of themselves and their families; while the women were occupied in manufacturing flaxen or woollen garments, and in other domestic offices. North of Nootka Sound is Port JSt. Francois, which was visited by M. de la Perouse. There is, at this place, a deep bay which affords a safe anchorage. Dur- ing three or four, months of the year, vegetation near Port St. Francois is vigorous. In the interior of the country are forests of stately trees ; and mountains of granite rise from the sea, and to such an elevation that their summits are capped with snow. Some of the highest mountains were computed by M. de la Perouse, to be ten thousand feet in perpendicular height. The inhabitants of this part of America are more ro- bust, and better, proportioned, than the Californians. 'J'he faces of the women are, however, disfigured by having, through the under lip, a piece of wood, by way of ornament. They paint their body and face, tatoo themselves, and pierce their ears and the cartilage of their nose, for the purpose of placing ornaments in them. Their food consists chiefly of game and fish. Their huts, or cabins, are constructed of rushes, or the branches of trees, and are covered with bark. The weapons of the men are bows, javelins, and dag- gers. The women are chiefly employed in domestic concerns : their dress consists of a leathern shirt, and a mantle of skins ; and their feet are generally naked. The inhabitants of the country, adjacent to an inlet which Captain Cook na ^ed Prince WUliawHs Sounds appeared to have a strong resemblance to the Esquimaux rilK WESTERN COAST OF AMERICA. OA>.» and Grconlanders. Their canoes, tlieir weapons, and their implements for fishing and hunting, are exactly similar, in materials and construction, to tliose used in Greenland ; and the animals are, in general, similar to those that are found at Nootka. Hmnmin^-hirds frc- cpiently flew about the ships while at anchor. Water- fowl were in considerable abundance: but torsk and holibut were almost the only kinds of fish that were caught. Vegetables were few in number; and the trees were chiefly the Canadian and spruce pine. North of Prince WilHam's Sound, Captain Cook en- tered an inlet, wliich, it was hoped, would be found to communicate either with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the cast ; but, after an examina*ion of it, to the distance of seventy leagues from the sea, it was proved to be a river. It is now called C lii', A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 315 ned to dging, ledge : whose nted a I hap- rrified, I impa- )urposc iisity to ired to tely too e ham- ;elf, de- As this in Koss redatov, luscd hy gnifying rriniaces ito, and which Itch was osiug it shown ched it, •d wcr? the use ohend ; )er seat hooks, Its, hut stonish- id attei- Lice any en usi.'d if in surprise at the great quantity of this valuable ma- terial wliich thoy beheld. By the direction of the offi- cers, Sacheuse enquired of these people, whether their country had as many inhabitants as there were pieces of ice, floating round the ship: they replied, " Many more;" and it was supposed that at least a thousand fragments could be distinguished. The men were now loaded with presents of various kinds, consisting of articles of clothing, biscuit, and pieces of wood; in addition to which the plank that had been used in crossing the chasm, was given to them. They then departed, promising to return as soon as they had eaten and slept. The parting was attended, on each side, by the ceremony of pulling noses. It has been remarked that these Indians were in pos- session of knives; and the iron of which their knives were made, was stated to have been procured from a mountain near the sea-shore. They informed Sacheuse that there was a rock, or great quantity of it ; and that they cut off from this rock, with a sharp stone, sucl» pieces as they wanted. In the course of the three following days, the Isabella changed her station some miles westward. At length she was again moored near the ice ; and, shortly after- wards, three of the natives appeared at a distance. Sacheuse, who had been furnished with presents, and sent to speak with them, induced them to drive, on their sledges, close to the vessel. The dogs attaciicdto each sledge were six in number. Each dog had a codar of seal-skin, two inches wide, to which one end of a thong, made of strong hide, and about three yards in length, was fastened: the other end was tied to the front of the sledge: thus the dogs were ranged nearly abreast, each dog drawing by a single trace, and without reins. No sooner did they hear the crack of the dri- ver's whip, than they set otf at full speed, while he managed them with the greatest apparent ease, guiding them partly by his voice, and partly by the sound of his whip. One of these men pointed out to Captain Koss, p li,M.;| r ;■!' ii 'fl^ h*i 3)4 ROS^ » VOYAGE TO DISCOVER liis house, which was about three miles distant, and could be discerned with a telescope. A party of ten natives approached the ship, on the ensuing day. These having with them a seal-skin bag filled with air, they began to kick it at each other and at the strangers : in this play the Englishmen joined, to the great amusement of both parties. The inflated skin was what the men had been using as the buoy to a har- poon, in the killing of a sea-unicorn. They gave to Captain Ross a piece of dried sea-unicorn's flesh, which appeared to have been half roasted. This gentleman had already seen them eat dried flesh ; and he now had an opportunity of ascertaining that they did not scruple to eat flesh in any state ; for, one of them who had a bag full of marine-birds, took out one and devoured it raw. The officers, desirous of ascertaining whether these Indians had any amusements of music or dancing, pre- vailed with two of them to give a specimen of their dancing. One of them began to distort his features and turn up his eyes. He then proceeded to execute, in succession, a variety of strange gestures and atti- tudes, accompanied by hideous distortions of counte- nance. His body was generally in a stooping posture; and his hands rested on his knees. After a few mi- nutes, he began to sing; and, in a little while, the second performer, who, hitherto, had been looking on, in silence, began to imitate his comrade. They then sang, in chorus, the word, '^hejatv! hejaw!" After this had continued, with increasing energy, for several minutes, the tune was suddenly changed to one of shrill notes, in which the words " weehee! rveehee!''* were ut- tered with great rapidity. They then approached each other, by slipping their feet forward : they grinned, and, in great agitation, advanced until their noses touched, when a loud and savage laugh terminated the extraordinary performance. While this performance was going on, one of the Indians, seeing that the attention of every person was A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 315 U, and on the i\n bag ler and ned, to :ed skin i a har- rave to , which itleman low had scruple id a bag it raw. er these ig, pre- of their features execute, nd atti- counte- osture ; ■ew mi- ile, the ing on, y then After several )f shrill ^ere ut- |ed each rrinned, noses ited the of the son was engaged, seized the opportunity of descending into the state-room, and of purloining Captain Ross's best tele- scop\ p 2 .510 ROSSS VOYAOE TO DISCOVER serves for a wick, and produces a comfortable fire for cooking and warmth, as well as for light. The whale-fishery might, undoubtedly, be pursued with great success, in this bay and its vicinity. The whales are here not only large and numerous, but, pro- bably from their having been undisturbed, they arc tame, and easy to be approached. The dress of the Arctic Highlanders, as Captain Ross has denominated the people of this country, consists of thrne pieces, which are all comprised in the name of tunic. I'he upper piece is made of seal-skin, with the hair outside ; and is open near the top, so as to admit the w carer's face. The hood part is neatly trimmed with fox's-skin, and is made to fall back on the shoulders, or to cover the head, as may be required. The next piece of dress, which scarcely reaches to the knee, is made of bear's or dog's skin. The boots are of aeal- skin, \vith the hair inward. In the winter this people have a garment of bear-skin, which they put on as a cloak. The Arctic Highlanders are of a dirty copper colour. Their stature is about five feet : their bodies are corpu- lent, and their features much resemble those of the Es- quimaux. Their cheeks are full and round. I'heir lips arc thick, their eyes are small, and their hair is black, coarse, long, and lank. These people appear to be fdthy in the extreme. The faces, hands, and bodies of such as were seen by the voyagers, were covered with oil and dirt; and they seemed never to have washed themselves since they were born: even their hair was matted with filth. Some attempts were made to ascertain the religious notions of the Arctic Highlanders, but these seem to have proved unsatisfactory ; and, perhaps, from the inability of Sachense to question them on such a subject. They had a king, whom they represented to be a strong man, very good, and greatly beloved. His house was de- scribed to be of stone, and nearly as large as the ship ; and they said that every man paid to him a portion of A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. .•J17 I'IimI ire lor ursuod The it, pro- ,ey are in Ross sists of arae of ,'ith the ) admit ed with )ulders, le next inee, is of aeal- ; people )n as a colour. ; corpu- the Es- Their hair is ipear to bodies covered o have n their ligious to have nability They tg man, vas de- e ship ; tion of iill which they ranj»Iit or found. Tliey could not be JL made io understand what was meant by war, nor did the voyagers see, amonnr them, any warlike weapons. It is peculiarly deservin_i( of remark, tliat these Indians, who derive nuich of their subsistence from the water, have no canoes or vessels of any description, in wliich they can go afloat; nor do tlu'y appear to have any names by which boats or canoes are designated. It is true that they have no wood for the construction of floating vessels ; but such miglit, without dilHculty, be constructed of bone covered with skins. On tlie 16th of August, the ice had become suf- ficiently open, to permit the passage of the vcr"3els to the northward ; and they consequently proceeded on their voyage. In these high latitudes, a kind of marine birds, called Little Awks (alca allcj were observed in countless niultitudes, and afforded to tlic sailors, a grateful sup- ply of fresh f«)od. With three muskets, no fewer than one thousand two hundred and sixty-three of them were killed in one day; and, of this number, ninety-three were brought down by one discharge of the mnskets. When the ships were in latitude 75 degrees 54 mi- nutes, the snow on the face of the cliffs was observed to be stained of a deep crimson colour. Some of tliis snow being collected in buckets, it was found to re- semble, in appearance, ras])berry ice-cream : wlu n dis- solved, the liquor seemed not unlike muddy port-v^ine; and the sediment appeared, tlirongli a vnicioscopo, to be composed of dark-red globules. Some of this sedi- ment was brought to England, and it is generally sup- posed to have been a vegetable substance, tlie seed, pro- bably, of some species of fungus; or, perhaps, to have been itself a minute kind of fungus. On the 18th of August, the sliips passed Cape Dud' ley Digges, six miles northward of which a majestic glacier, or mass of ice, was remarked to occupy a space of four miles square, extending one mile into the sea, and rising to the height of at least a hundred feet. lll'tHil ■ ■ li I '' ll'i I dt8 IIOSS'S VOYACK, &C. On the same clay the vessels passed Wolstenhohnc and Whale Sounds, About midnight of the 19th, Sir Thomas Smith's Sound was distinctly seen. Captain Ross considered ll»e bottom of this sound to have been eighteen leagues distant; but its entrance, he says, was completely block- ed up by ice. On the 21st, the sliips stood over to explore an opening, supposed to have been that called Alderman Jones's Sound; but Captain Ross says that the ice and fog prevented a near approach. The night of the 24th of August was remarkable for having been the first on which the sun had been ob- served to set, since the 7th of June. The land was now seen to take a southerly direction ; and the ships pro- ceeded along it, as near as they could conveniently ap- proach for tlie floating masses of ice. On the 30th they entered a wide opening in the land, the Sir James Lancaster's Soum^ of Baffin. On each side of this opening was a "hain of high mountains. The sea was perfectly free ^ ice, and the vessels proceeded on a westward course ->,. ocveral leagues. The weather had, for some time, been hazy ; but, on its clearing up, Captain Ross states that a range of mountains about twenty-four miles distant, were seen to occupy the centre of the inlet. To these he gave the name of Croker Moun- tains, and, imagining that no passage existed through them, he returned into the open sea, and, not long after-^ wards, sailed for England. FARRY S VOTAGK. JIO STUientp^^jjctl) ©ap'jer Jnstrurtlon. I'i, V i DAVISS STRAIT AND BAFFIN'S DAY CONCLUDED. The accounts that had been given by Captain Ross, particularly respecting the apparent mountains, named by him Croker Mountains ^ across Sir James Lancaster's Sound, not proving cither conclusive or satisfactory, the Lords of the Admiralty ordered two ships, the Hecla and Griper, to be prepared for a further voyage of dis- covery in Baffin's Bay. The command of these vessels, as already stated, was given to Captain Parry, who, in the previouj expedition, had been second in command \mder Captain Ross. It was one important part of his instructions, that he should advance to the northward, as far as til! opening into Lancaster's Sound; that he should explore the bottom of that Sound, and, if pos- sible, pass through it to Behring's Strait. The number of men in both the vessels was ninety-four ; and many of them were those who had accompanied Captain Ross. Katrative o/'Captain Parry's Voyage for the Discovery of a North" West Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacijic Ocean, Captain Parry arrived at the entrance mio Lancaster's .SoMwrf, on the 30th of July, 1819; and, tins day, saw no fewer than eighty-two whales. Some of the officers and men landed at Possession Bay, and recognized many objects which they had seen there, when with Captain Ross. The tracks of human feet were ob- served upon the banks of a stream. These at first ex- cited much surprise; but, on examination, they were discovered to have been made by the slioos of some of the same party, eleven montl)s before. wild, , Its vation. ^avs, at but, crduro food been ons of npedi- that very from thinly imtcd t sea, fowl, frc-li irious ^vliich )rcrd. I, iind (i hares. The fruits of Labrador consist chiefly of cur- rants, raspberries, cranberries, whortle-berries, apples, and pears. Among the mineral productions is a kind of felspar, which, when polished, exhibits a display of brilliant and beautiful colours. The climate of this country, though severe, is healthy. There is little appearance of summer till about the mid- dle of July ; and, in September, winter indicates its ap- proach. During summer the heat is sometimes un- pleasant ; and the cold of winter is of long duration, and generally intense. In Labrador, as in all other countries of northern climates, the quadrupeds are clothed with a longer and thicker fur during winter, than in summer ; and many of the birds have a softer down, and feathers of a closer texture, than those of milder countries. Some of the animals also assume a white clothing at the commencement of winter. The native inhabitants of Labrador are mountaineers and Esquimaux, between whom there subsists an in- vincible aversion. The former, who inhabit the in- terior districts towards the north, are of dark colour, and robust constitution, though their limbs are small. They subsist chiefly on rein-deer, which they are very dexterous in killing : they also kill foxes, martens, and beavers. As these people live a wandering life, they never build houses ; but they construct a kind of tents, and cover them with branches of trees, and with deer- skins. Their summer dress consists of skins freed from the hair; and their winter-dress is formed of beaver and deer-skins, with the hair on. During the summer they traverse the country, in canoes, along the rivers and lakes. These canoes are covered with the bark of the birch-tree; and, although they are so light as to be easily carried, some of them are large enough to contain a whole family, together with the materials of their traffic. In winter the mountaineers of Labrador pass over the snow, by means of what are called snow-shoes. These mountaineers are esteemed an industrious people. They bear fatigue with almost incredible reso- a ill * MiS LABRADOR. I iition and patience; and will often travel two succcs- sive days without food. They, every year, come to tiic Canada mercliants, who have seal-fisheries on the southern coast, and bargain their furs, in cxchangt; for blanketin«r, fire-arms, and ammunition ; and they are im- moderately fond of spirits. Some of them profess to be Roman Catholics; but their whole religion seems to consist in reciting a few prayers, and in counting their beads. It is customary with these Indians, to destroy such persons among them as become aged and decrepid. This practice they endeavour to vindicate from their mode of life : for they assert that those who are unab^3 to procure the necessaries requisite for their existence, ought not live merely to consume them. The Esquimaux^ who inhabit the northern parts of the country, are a race similar to the Greenlauders. I'hey have a deep tawny or rather copper-coloured complexion; and are inferior in size to the generality of Europeans. Their faces are flat, and their noses short. Their hair is black and coarse; and their hands and feet are remarkably small. Their dress, like that of the mountaineers, is entirely of skins; and consists of a sort of hooded shirt, of breeches, stockings, and boots. The dress of the diiferent sexes is similar, ex- cept that the women wear large boots, and have their upper garment ornamented with a kind of tail. In their boots they occasionally place their children ; but the youngest child is always carried at the back of its mother, in the hood of her jacket. The women orna- ment their heads with large strings of beads, which they fasten to the hair above their ears. 'Vhe weapons of these Esquimaux are darts, bows, and arrows; and their food consists chiefly of the flesh of seals, deer, and birds; and of fisli. Some of their oai\oes arc near twenty feet in length, and not more than two feet wide. They each contain only one per- son ; arc formed of a frame-work, covered with skins; and are so extremely light, that they are easily overset. I J NEWFOUNDLAND. 1^9 tlieir Notwithstanding this, and the circumstance that few of the Esquimaux arj ahle to swim, these people arc able to navigate them, in safety, without a compass, and even in the thickest fogs. When the ground is covered with snow, they traverse the country in sledges, drawn by dogs. During winter, they live in houses, or rather in a kind of caverns, which they sink in the earth; and, during summer, they occupy tents, made circular with poles, and covered with skins. Their only beverage is water. The men are extremely indo- lent; and all the laborious occupations, except tiiat of procuring food, are performed by the wd to- with ony lirli to ndrhit the body of one man. Into this hole he thrusts himself, up to the waist; afler which he fastens the skin so tight round his body, th^t no water can enter. Thus secured, and armed with a paddle, which is broad at both ends, he ventures out to sea, even in the most stormy weather ; and, if he be unfortunate enough to have his canoe overset, he can easily raise himself by means of his paddle. Besides this descrip- tion of canoes, the Greenlanders have boats so large that they will contain fifty persons, with all their tackle, ^3ggage» and provisions. These carry a mast and a triangular sail; the latter of which is made of the membranes and entrails of seals. The management of the larger boats is always given to women; who also perform the whole drudgery of the household, even to the building and repairing of the dwellings. During winter, the Greenlanders live in houses, and, during the summer, in tents. The houses are constructed of stones, with layers of earth and sods between them ; and the rafters are covered with bushes and turf. The entrance is through a hole in the roof, which serves also as a chimney. The walls are hung with skins, fastened on by pegs, made of the bones of seals. These huts are divided, by skins, into several apartments, according to the number of families which inhabit them; and the inhabitants sleep on skins, upon the ground. The huts are well warmed with fires; and are lighted by lamps, filled with train oil, and fur- nished with moss instead of a wick. These lamps bum so bright as to give considerable heat as well as warmth. At the outside of the dwelling-house are separate buildings, for store-houses, in which the inhabitants lay up their stock of provisions, train oil, and other useful articles. Near the store-houses they arrange their boats, with the bottoms upward; and they hang be- neath these their hunting and fishing-tackle, and their skins. The summer-tents of the Greenlanders are of ft conical form, and are constructed of poles, covered, bdth inside and out, with skkis. 3iC GREENLAND. The seas in the vicinity of Greenland are, every year, frequented l)y hoth European and American vessels, employed in the whale-fishery. Such of these as enter Davis's Strait, generally resort to Disco Bay; and a few have penetrated even still further north than this. It is stated that, in the year ITjI, a whaler, under the command of a Captain Wilson, was conduct- ed, on the eastern side of Greenland, as far nortii as to the 83d decree of latitude: the sea was clear of ice, as i'ar as the commander of this ship could descry; but as he did not meet with any whales, and began to apprehend some danger from proceeding onward, he returned; and, in the same year, another whale-fisher sailed as far north as to 8 i^ degrees. These are the highest northern latitudes which any vessels have bitherto reached. FINIS. Hanrer, Darton, and Co. Priaters, Gracechurcb-Street. •'j<'<^W8ftt'^ WORKS BY TUE JiEK IVILUAM BINGLEY. 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Fiom the j'erusal of these anecdotes, the young of both sexes may rear> much entertainment and instruction, without encountering a single passage which can alarm modes* tv, or wound those pure and simple feelings which constitute the ornament and < omfort of our condition. USEFUL KNOWLEDGE; or a. familiar ami ex- planatory Account of the various Productions of Na- ture, Mineral, Vegetable and Animal ; which are chiefly employed for the Use of Man. Illustrated by nearly Two Hundred Figures ; and intended as a Work both of Instruction and Reference. Third Edition. Three Volumes, 12mo. Price One Guinea. *' As a cdnipendium of accurate information upon every sub- ject connectea with the mineral, vegetable, and animal king- doms, we have not seen a more useful publication than this. " To the libra^^y of the young, ihe.'e volumes will be a most desirable addition." — British Crtticfor Sept. 1817. 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