vma IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ V^^ ' / O #? ^ 1.0 If KM illM Mi 1^ .i ui 2.0 118 1-25 1.4 1.6 •« 6" ► ^ -% <^ /a ^^^ - 'el ^ '^ <9 /i Photographic Sciences Corpomtioii 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716^ 872-4503 SI^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadi<«n de microreproductions historiquas Technical and Bibliographic Notos/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available fov filming. Features of thh copy which may be bibllographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleui' I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagee r~Y Covers restored and/or laminated/ L-^ Couverture restaur^e et/oir pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le tit;e de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes g6ographiques en couleur FT"/ Coloured irk (i.e. other than blufi or black}/ L.\l1 Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bieue ou noire) □ Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Pi) n n n Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other materiai/ Relii avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr6e peu't causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la margd int6rieure Blank leaves addad during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omclted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissem dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages i/ont pas 6t6 filmies. Additional comments:/ Commeniaires suppldmentaires; L'instltut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtaes n Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou peilicuiies 0^! Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachet6es ou piqu6es □ Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es rrV Showthrough/ L_J Transparence I I Quality of print varies/ D Qualitd indgale da rinipression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du matdnei suppl^mentaire I I Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been retilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partielicment obscurcies pa; un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 fiimies d nouveau de fa^on d obtenir la meilleure image possible. Th:s item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmi au taux de reduction indiqui ci-dessous. 10X 14X 13X 22X 26X 30X y ^immmmu ^ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X ails du difier jne lage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: izaak WQltan Killam Meri.orial Library Dalhousie University The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filmmg contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers arc filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. L'exemplaire filmd fut reproduit grdce d la giS'n6rosit6 de: Izaak Walton Killam Memorial Library Dalhous'e University Les images suivantes ont M6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de l'exemplaire filmd, et en conformity avbo les conditions du contrat de fiimage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim^e sont filmds en commenpant par le premier plat et en tsrminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemp'aires originaux sont fiimds en commenpant par la premidre pag? qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol •~^- (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole --^sigr.ifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as r'3quired The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d oes taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour §tre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. -ata aiure. 3 t2X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 'X *V V ■J # 41' ^ || ft '■'r:*,/,':. r, '5ii./, r. '■ '.' .'' ',>!>'' '-- r , : ■) : 5^::. 1„ THE LI by ^r^r-^O-^^ ..-^U (^^4^ S--SrT-.: k •«»,j i» «W:' .^t AJ^ LIBRARY. ^ ■ ^^:4,r| — ^ — ^ 1% i. i'^II^AA'^^^^' ^-;^''',,, T R A V B L, S -IN BRITAIN, FRANCE, PRUSSIA, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, HELGIUM ANT) HOLLAND Bv John MacKinnon /"A PRICE SO CENTS iAr>\jU/v^ P n I N r E II BY S c n r R M A N RAMULES IN EUROPE le mi.es from Us -uth ^'a" i:^^ ^ T^ port of Britam. ''"f^^^^:^' Contains a public bu'^mg over o that giant cty. I' ^ "ecessity of entargmg to kt=i> pace $«fem (if Birkenhead b' f dec^'V^aw cotton were .m,«>r ed , that many. 1" 'V^Sr "^^Jf , j^j^pie had mcreased to 9».75o „ ,80. the importation of *a'^7,g6^. Needless to say he toles-rising to '.SVa-ooo bak m ^^^ ^f^ „, lat ^°i;ttrrnorsiry%lace .^^^^^^^ Sm Sie'n Her Mljesty was 7"";^^ ,*, ttagnificent ceilmg uiawnci ^, t hall IS 100x74 leei, ^^v.^'^orean is rated :f:rarch'];:inTB feet .om the— ^ ^^dX a steam °U finest in Brium cost £.0000 ^^,,i^^,3„ handsome and engine :a *e ™„t f^^^^ .^e floor -e sev- >nU \of ""'„r^tended f^hot air when .eqmred. In front ^ ^.^^^ S ;g rtr colossal lion figures ,3 f et^^'onS^ each costing a thousand ^o'f^ s%o„ (,,5x90 ajid 5° to finest ui rsritain. ^ "j^ . „ , _ seaman nauicu *^ , ^. later, when they are \n^ y>..l' I '»i ENGLAND fysiem of docks, particulars of which I intend to give later. Waterloo dock is entirely used for grain, consisting chiefly of wheat from Russia. Alongside the dock are immense warehouses, each over 600 feet long, six storeys high, all of granite, apparently solid enough to withstand the shock of a planet. The wheat all comes in bulk and from the steamers lighters (carrying 300 tons) bring it to the warehouse; thence by elevators to the highest flat, where it is weighed automatically (two tons at once) and carried to any part of the building on belts 18 inches wide, moving about 300 yards per minute. These belts hold at one time ten tons of wheat and carry 250 tons per hour. They cross at right angles and the mode of shifting the grain from one belt to another is no less ingenious than simple. Let us suppose a stream of wheat being carried on belt a has to be thrown on belt c, running at right angles. A foot or less from the crossing, belt a is raised a few inches by a roller, giving to it a sharp upward bend. This causes the wheat to fly into a box on the crossing, so constructed as to turn the stream upon belt c, and thence to its destination. The wheat is large-grained, very hard and dark. The dust in the weighing room seemed about as thick as Egyptian darkness, and I fail to understand how operatives could last long at the work. The warehouses are supplied with electric light, and by using differ- ent gangs of men, work need not suspend on account of natural darkness. It was no small business they did, for the overseer informed me they handled 300,000 tons the previous year. In the King's warehouse are usually stored great quantities of segars ■ ■ t- ^h t: : :^~ - ■■ - I % ' RAMBLES IN EUROPK liable to collision, and »" Jf'^ ' ^^ 1886 was the tube ready ,^ a.sepavate -P-^ ho':; a^e^rxten^h-e and a-^^^^^ pillars. I '»'==' M ' KNr.LAND of iseR •ade hile med only id is f the >e the •e are le city aryfor is with 1 large , i seem ds for a ns and hey are drive a e ready dth and 5( bricV. jven-foo''- . LTge fans ainage is rallons a I by liftSi it 100,000 \ and fine according ,art. B»t ■ition from r.ngland to rtance. ^^ ie of Saxon 3 years ago tablets and ad with the .;*i! word CiKSAR were dug in 1 849 ; a year later a vessel was found with several hundred coins of third century minting. In ^853 the outfit of a Ronnn bath was discovered; and the town wall, tho Saxon, rests on foundations of Roman work. Stirring times for old Chester when the 20th legion bore its standards aloft, and shook the earth with its s'nchronous tread. Making a great skip of centuries, let us visit Phoenix tower, as from it K.ing Charles (on September 27, 1645) watched the defeat of his troops by the parliament forces — three years later the unfortunate man lost his head on the scaffold. The water tower, built when the Dee laved the city walls, is yet in good condition, tho the river is now a quarter mile in the distance. The ' rows ' (so called) are a curious feature of two streets runninj at right angles to each other. Besides . the ordinary sidewalk, there is a covered gallery along the front of the second story, and from this the best stores oi)en — others being under them on level of the roadway. In other parts the houses are end to the street, the gables projecting over the sidewalk and supported by pillars. An old cage that draws a good deal of attention has the following inscription — '1652. God's providence is mine iVheritance. 1652.' Tradition states that during a plague in i<^52, the occupants escaped, and to show his gratitude, the owner had the above sentence carved in front. Of another house formerly a tavern named 'the Blue Post,' the following is related: In 1558 the Dean of St. Paul's was sent wrth a commission to disturb the Protestants in Ireland. Remaining a night at Chester, he lodged at the Blue Post inn. During the evening he nvas visited by the mayor and referring to the object of his mission, held up a box saying — ' Here's what will lash the heretics of Ireland.' The landlady (who had a brother in Dublin) hearing the remark, opened the box and replaced the commission by a pack of cards while the Dean was escorting his worship down stairs. In due time the Dean arrived in Dublin, met Lord Deputy in the castle, opened the box and handed him (wrapped in silk) what he thought was the commission. It is needless to state that all around the board were duly amazed and for some- time speechless. Holding up the cards, ' These (said the Deputy) are good in their place, but will not do to roast heretics. Return, Mr. Dean in haste and produce a more valid parchment.' The Dean hurried back to St. James; but traveUing in those days was slow and ere he could reach, Mary had passed away and fresh hands grasped the tiller. It is further added that Elizabeth granted to the Blue Post landlady £40 a year for her prompt action. f; * II I 'W UAMT1LF.S IN EUROPE ^ , p the o^der parts ...Chester ^^^'^^^^^i:^'. •'■"'^rllL'^ standing 700 V-^;XZt and o( rare m".t J'- jtel. ^^ 3° nker hlU and the t^^"^,; ,,St -^aterial than ta.sh. Phe first mentioned. Chester c ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^„„d ^'^ ^^^^"^ , f^r have an ill ^^l^^^^^et preparing 'the apP-^^^^ h^usc ,omc one and not.cea ^ ^T^.yLm.^^ fairly as similar holes "^ \" ^ Qn the right aie ^o^ " .; ^^ont -•>'"?i^Ti^^:^e' tdtowers; to the le t gteenje^^;-,, On the rigM aic -"»'■■-; ;„ f„„t suburbs aje gay — -;jg„„ers; to the ''^ftg^^J.ton; nestling smothered w.th -ree, .no j^, ^ome oj "='°^^°'J i„,o the f^'r^^^r^Sed by forest giants, the y,<:^>8^"letor ranks among ra.c'n^;::" - r^r::;;r ° cXn^a;«. ^^^ ma 111" J . a^Tf^ong the aiua^^v Florence and Konne '•'TT:nr:;urb»r -- "™-^:';„^=„;^^^^^^^^^^ at hand and wiiu ^ ^^^ tnmm.ng m^ vfiaeara of "'==""'"'. uw'hfhad L easy biUct; for '^ "f^^W my coXions Duke i- 5 * ; * f,,^ „pw D;:;stures. neanu^ .^^ j at lihertv to hunt for new p^^^ Uastilv startea. ^ ^ "^^ arrived at a ga e w ^^^^ ^f ^he UUKe ling was paid to gei * 'VllnfyHjiotAND ts id ,er at ■ :'■ ■>■ J is . ,;v*-'" 'he ■:■{}:■ her : • .Im- /• ome U ) be e up gthe must alley. ' for deep i- the ;. , fairly 1 front estiing ito the )ugh a ^ castle, e rcots i among )mment ^ with a rble, the d Rome J gra'/ing own the 5, hinting iagara of nclusions . to sup- ) pay the h he was e ire kin- a little I 3m a shil- lominions. The day was extremely warm, but I strolled through forest, meadow, hill and dale, when on emerging from a wood I suddenly espied a fair}' vison — a small clearing with stream pass- ing tnrough — a thatcheu cottage, a very dissipation of nistic neatness, with roses scaling ihs walls and great banks of flowers as protective ramparts. To my mind I had never seen anything quite so delightful — no bird's nest was ever so cosy or half so romantic. Such thatchi so even and thick, it looked like a great fur cap on the head of an urchin. This fairy home was the keeper's lodge, who was arranging tables and chairs on the lawn between his cot -n the river — for a picnic invasion was soon to appear from the old town of Chester. Apart from the Garden of Eden, could any spot on this earth offer greater attractions? While refreshing my carnal man at a table outside the cottage, I enquired the shortest way to Chester and was told ihat a boat would pass down in a couple of minutes. The stream betore me (scarcely more than a brook) was the quiet-flowing Dee, soiled with the dust of 30 leagues' tramp from its birth in the mountains. A tiny steamer soon appeared, with tree tops clasping hands above it — stopped at a landing, I sprang on board and off" again. Few incidents left a more agreeable impression than the sail down that tiny river. The banks were lined with flowering shrubs and great ♦^--^'^s, whose drooping branches trailed in the water. As we neared the town handsome residences reclined on sloping banks, flower gardens and well trimmed lawns down to the water, where was usually a small landing with boat to match it. After examining Roman remains along the stream, I bade farewell to Chester, with its towers and walls, its rows and ■■1 Its river. ir.Ufy ■.u Kf^r .^ji ;*»?■■ Next day I left for Marichestei^ — distance 31 miles. This was the first railway of any account opened in Britain, and there was no small trouble in getting the bill passed. Stephenson during examination before the commons, happened to remark that in his opinion a locomotive could be made to nm a m'le in three or four minutes; whereup:^n some honorable members declared him fit for a home of insane rather than for any position of merit. The road was however built and opened in 1830, amid excite- ment probably as great as bridging the strait of Dover would cause at present. My stay in Manchester was short, and a provin- cial exhibition being in progress, most of the time was spent among its wonders. The town is rated the world'a greatest manufactur- ing center, the leading industries being cotton and metals. The cathedral, town hall md court house are royal buildings. Free- it I * s*- in w f ? RAMMLES IN EUROPE i;- ' V t ^ . The newsroom in the ,.de hall has ^'"'"B f™ 40- 1--^. ^^ ,,„^ ^ ,-- The distance to London « .80 mUes y _^^ i„,erru,,ted by scenery in places is fine, but the v.ew ^ __^^_^^ ,^,,d ^ tunnels Whenever one ts 'n r»-P'"'f' ^^e in a cuttmg. 1>' rCn never fails 'o ^we jnto a ho e or^^ ^^^^^^, , Derbyshire, ;»"Vrrve' aU indWidual trees ^-"^^\:J^tl ,he f^qnency o grov- a ^^^ .^ "™„ f, T-r. of :iSrof ™ral bea.«y rarely -^t whT/-t tree-^f masbeb 01 F viried colors;, the mgii^YJ- .u^ aust appear- '-'^^^wtrl'-m °es windtng through, .bank • r.«nt to disspation, and "^^"' ,^ ,_„tUp, so thick is flowers trained ab""' *em F tow^ ^^^^^ ,he thatch^ Ih.^^^ ^ ^^ tirfsl?>d tat. of^,''-t;„,/rd"omy a thin column o smo.e rranS^-S'dlr I unbarred and steps are 1U- the iter the , by cape In ture, klike ted a jrt of were rds of tuviUy ppear- trains asiness ■ ry^hing ^ wealth ,eaut\ful ts walls :hiselleu )Ught to 18. The nificence en miles Haddon a lordly Ion. The Her game lietly m a ding hills its banks {.verything I mantles- c is flowers md right— lis is truly e music of way before ^n of smoke ■ beard on the gravel. Neighbors meet and exchange kindly words, and later the barefoot boy's whistle is heard in the lane as he drives the cows to pasture. On rising ground, a short way from the village, stands an old-fashioned church with the tooth-marks of time on its turrets. No style, no steeple, no painted glass, no groined arches. To me the poorest chant wouid sound better in that dear old fane than the grandest symphonies, ramping and storming through great cathedral arches, Its very look reproves sin and a walk in it would do one more good than many a ser- mon. The small yard is thickly planted — tombstones extend to the door and under the tall grass slumber generations that successively prayed within its [mortals. . Matlock (a short distance away) is of greater preten-nons — standing on the side of wooded hills and well known for mineral waters. It is a charming spot and largely infested with tourists. Derby is a nice inland town, with 6g,ooo people and 130 miles from London. Its chief industries are silk and cotton manufac- ture, the former having been started 170 years in the distance. From here the country is mostly level, with few points deserving notice. I arrived in the capital on Friday, June 17th and took lodging near the Midland depot. Next day was the winding-up of a review at agricultural hall, the magnificent affair being wit- nessed by royalty and crowned heads by dozens. On Monday there was unusual stir along the principal streets and progress was often interrupted. Every kind of conveyance from the huge dust-cart to the lordly coach with gilt arms and uniformed foot- men, took part in the procession. But no one seemed annoyed or in haste—all took matters coolly as if they had left home to join in this street blockade. Habit reconciles us to annoyance, and I have remarked that English people are more patient than we on this side the water. After this miscellaneous collection had stood a quarter hour, some policeman would succeed in moving a team a foot or two backwards, when a general stir would ensue, to be agam wedged fast in a few seconds. With- out being painfully certain, 1 fancy the rate of progress could not have been slower than a half-mile in 60 minutes. It is inter- esting to watch from an elevation a mile of street packed in this helpless manner; but the interest suddenly drops when one becomes an actor. These in carriages had time to feast on the decorations (for the jubilee to-morrow); but those on foot had to watch severely sharp to avoid collision. Having nrrived at the marble arch (corner of Hyde Park), I stopped to witness the display on Rotten Row. This, let me inform the reader, is a ' I '^ I ll R ■}> m ■'■■■' : U' ..^iv : s^iPy. B9P '.?"'j» i 5. . RAMULES IN EUROPE rtrive with the rich ana 8"; .^„a on ihat aicoum tolled (in ^«"^^'„f ihe London ''■8'''t.^™'^„ 'hfare from 4 «> corruption one o^,ongth.stho^^^^^^^^ outfits, fine thousands of coacnes „mer. Ihe spienam ? "■"wrrtrtnp^i.^s con^"""', i»,,r:el airfare placed :;So:tivaUed^n any^oumry.^ t^l^ Vlh? tr/Xs under trees •"•;'<»^,*\^™''m,s while ""'^X^t^^'u entrance -' comfortaWy -<» -;'Uion. OwosUe^^-^^^ ^a V„„en of tornado of '^*",i,,e of Achilles, mscnhed- By compan- stands a heroic »talu«<« Wellington and ^'^ n™'" ^^ penin- England to ArtW> ^; »"^^,, ordnance taken dunng the ions in arms.' " ""' "-^^o, raised altogether .I'Y /"J"" ^bode, snlar war and cost $0^00,^ ,,, 8.30 1 armed a, my ^^'^ li?a.lower:^t:d;M.eop.e^ -^^^^ t^Inds were put »P ^^'o^f ^r,™ Some stands «"' ^^^"^ ',,1 with boards the f"""" "4^° desirable seats "ere quoted holding sooo- ="'f*^„™eas. Window sea s were Irt to 1, alarming rate "f joo 8™«. ^^^^^ . ,„ g an honest I >_^ '"■^ *'row'VwSw about fot,r feet w,oe sa d to^ha^_^ I was shown a wui procession, bo tar a*^ . ^ ^ocal let for £50 ^^^^^" led from £^ «P^f^^' T^ng tenants individual «eat^ ranged J^ ^^^^^^^ ^l\'::tetTromfhe gravel. advantage. ^^^7, .^.e show from roofs 130 ^^^\l^\ c^^ Jiooo while others viewed the sliov. ^^^^ ^^^^^^d ^^J * -^^ r hrge tenement house, being ^^^ ^^^g^ ot exat€^ '} Tinhilee proceedings. l"^J 7' On iubilee morning U ""^ ■ ^"^^o^S^^uriosity had reached ^J^ ^^^^ ^t the ment to wnun expecting to nave ct 1 ^^^ 2tst)lturnedoutat5,e F ^^^ gathered. ^^^ ^^ ftUed decorations before the crow ^^^ ^ ^Ldu task of niisplaced expect^ion--fo^^^^ and packed. About ta^^ J^^^^^ ^,,, ,ohd ^^^^^/'^^^^t or bearing the stre - J^e^^^^^ ^--^^^^ at thTc^^^^^^^ time kept busy, as many ENGLAND II en as ;as rile the . to ' '■'J,-,. fine rV^ and iced can dous ance sn of npan- •enin- Sigbt- •;' ibode, e, and Cireat ^ eathed ible of at the specta- penny.' e been d learn to local tenants e gravel, r jEiooo )f excite- Ing (Jwne ,k at the lope and ide filled It task of amp-posts a foot or itical time etter view corps was jxcitement. Ten thousand troops lined the march of ])arade, and military bands were at equal spaces. At II a. m. the racket of guns told the procession had left Buckingham palace. ' They come ! they come ! ' were the words and some turned pale with excitement. The line was composed of three sections, 13 state carriages in each, and a detachment of the Life-guards preceded. Besides these 16 officers of native Indian cavalry formed a body-guard for the Queen; and not a few of the dusky warriors had testimonials of brave deeds on fields of battle. The first section contained Indian princes with / suites; the Queen of Hawaii with her attendants; members of Y European royal families and their suites. The second division contained the King and Queen of the Belgians; the King of Saxony; King of the Hellenes; Crown Prince of Austria; equerries and court officials. The third division contained, besides the Queen (who occupied the last carriage) the Duke of Cambridge, General Wolseley, three major generals, ten colonels, lieutenant- generals, majors, ladies of the bedchamber, lord steward, gold- stick, grand dukes, princes and jjrincesses. As on all state occasions, Her Majesty was drawn by six cream-colored horses, ^ each led by a groom in gorgeous livery. Without being painfully exact, the procession was over a half mile in length, and viewed from a point of vantage, was a sight not forgotten. « i >*{ Westminster Abbey was reached at 12, and that renowned fane seldom enclosed so much wealth and fashion. Two galler- ies above the altar were filled with ladies of rank, their costly outfits being beyond description. Every decoration, military or ' civic, was jjinned where it would draw most attention. Arch- • bishops appenred like meteors in crimson vestments; bishops ., and deans were robed as became their cleric status. Kings, queens, princes, lords, nobles; wearers of stars and garters, great officials of army and navy in their brilliant attire; municipal dig- nitaries in robes of office; heralds and court representatives of various ranks and conditions; eastern princes and shahs, their turbans ablaze with barbaric splendor. The uniforms of all civilized nations are said to be present except those of France and the American Republic. The ceremony was conducted by the Archbishop of Canterbury and lasted about 40 minutes. It was chiefly musical and of course impressive. After leaving the Abbey the procession returned in the same order, though the route was to some extent varied. The distance each way was three to four miles and the display was considered fine by standard judges. Fancy 10,000 troops in uniform and ?:. i RAMBLKS IN KIJROPK m-.- close with people. ^^'^^ |r.^-„.piates shining liV^e the F^^* , Tii"«.=S ;^,%; -.ft.?^ KSVS* „,ents ablaze ^"f, continuous cheer ^^f .^^J^i^r.d Queen's carnage passea a c ^^^j ijnen "uuc m mons on each side the ^^'^^T^l'^^^r.x^y of attachment the days of fagging to. f^^^^^^^^Jt of orchids, six f« by ^'^'^"^ Queen «as P^^*^"'"!*'* i„ L evening » 8"'*f 'f 'he fol- 5,d valued a. 300 gvuneas In ^^^^ . and on the to given at the palace to whicn 5 ^ ^^„,c on ^ J'^ fowing day .6,000 -^f ^i^rthe iUuminaUons exceed'^ f „ scale in H);de P=^k A mg '^-^Tlttn and bonfires criptjon and hund eds^ ^ ^ , y <*C Jming 'The Times' had 3oof .tsw,d ^ ^ ^^^^^ ^_^^ •^ The town of Windsor .s»»;-J^^,, „,i„,y of court p.* oKniit I " 000 people. Its revcuu v sitors are .reque»«-» S:„";Hh\r: " 000" P-P-e,. chie«y ^-t tut -ndLi ^ytds" castle is the usual ^^^o? Normandy is^hofght Jo ravetinTe'^^r5.de.h^^^^^^^^^^ shri'ne the Queen ™^^„f,r.4th of Docembe. J^^^^/e - Sr^r^nSnt^pe,^^^^^^^^^^^^ iT^iles through the great park. ENOLAND 13 ked bite ious eeds ndid ivers eight vest- s the n the Uered It the :upied L must nas its ing the y seven [•ty was the fo\- L grand ed des- :reets to bonfires ig 'The :eedings. a double row of elm trees on each side, with marble tablets showing the date of their planting. On a hill at end of the long walk, three miles from the castle and right in front of it, stands an equestrian monument to George III. Several miles beyond is Virginia water, a beautiful lak , bordered with rhododendrons and surrounded by mock ruins. The great park is 3800 acres in extent, 18 miles round and abundantly stocked with game. Beyond it lies Windsor forest, 50 miles in circuit. The castle consists of three groups — the eastern contains the living rooms which are rarely seen; the middle group contains the round tower, rising 500 feet above the rivir; the western consists of St. George's chapel and Albert memorial hall. To the state apartments (ten in number) visitors are admitted during absence of the court, in the following order : The audience chamber, hung round with Gobelins tapestry; the Vandyke room, so called from having 20 works by that artist; the state drawing room has paint- ings by Zucareli; th£ gran»! vestibule has a heroic statue of George IV.; the state ante-room has a handsome ceiling painted by Verrio; the Waterloo chamber is frequently used for state banquets and contains 20 of Sir Thomas Lawrence's best works; the grand reception room is supremely gorgeous, and has Gobelins tapestry, with figures from Greek mythology — also a superb malachite vase presented to the Queen by the late Czar Nicholas. Ot. George's hall (the throne room), 200 fept long by 32 in height and breadth, has its ceiling decorated with the arms and insignia of the garter knights. On its walls are pictures of English sovereigns from James I. to George IV. The throne stands in the east end and is superbly gorgeous — covered with red velvet ha'-'^'n.gs, adorned with rose, thistle and shamrock, ate the Queen takes her seat here, hal)ited in at a dozen times her own weight in gold of 20 rd chamber contains arms and armor arranged like one sees in the Tower. An interesting object is a piece from the foremast of Nelson's ship ' Victory,' pierced by a cannon shot at Trafalgar. It now forms a pedestal for a colossal bust of Nelson by Chantry. Also a bar-shot that killed eight of the ' Victory's' men in the same battle; a chair made from an oak beam from Kirk AUoway; another out of an elm tree from the field of Waterloo; an anchor and two guns recovered near the coast of Scotland, supposed to have belonged to the Spanish armada; King Coffee's umbrella, and a variety of other trophies and curios. The presence chamber has ceiling painted by Verrio and walls hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing scenes D On occasi*^' vestments, carats. The i' i 1 1 5 '"r 'jim' RAMBLES IN EUROPE ! 1 the history of Esther. The ^'^^^^^X^^rT'^^'f'y r: ul-ra'^^r—r-T, 4 "XVishter of The western and lower sec .^ ^^^^^^ ^^ f'^'v^Canv onrS Albert memorial ^^U, style wn* ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^an) c-™u-:.s^j riff' «£«^^^^^^^ figure IS perfectly with ^«^^^ ,^,'T despain Above the nature. ro^^ -^ "rr^imd in attitude ot despdu drapery carrying the »-"' t'^p^Lps so. As work of art 1 con ^^ in questionable 'f <=-r|^''. L,ufal tablet records tne u it a triumph. N;"J„^;/,ate king of Abyssmta^ attractive-no -«°oXk'H-rsi::,.T-^^^^^^ . r, rourt is an interestmg old cage Hampton Court it» *> ENGLAND 15 if a dozen miles from the city. Originally it was put up by Car- dinal VVolsey; but the present mass consists largely of additions. It covers more than six acres of ground, with square court in the center — material, red brick with stpne finish. Externally it is a plain hulk with no architectural expression; inside, the great hall and king's stairway are the chief attractions — the former 127x23 feet and 60 in height. The ceiling is one of the richest of its kind — not gay with paint and gilding, but with corbels of oak. The walls are hung with tapestry about four centuries old; each piece nine yards long and representing a scene in the life of .Abraham. The stair is of easy grade and lordly aspect. The thousand or more pictures scattered over t^e 3 2 state apartments were painted by some 300 men of various achools and countries. The ceilings of many rooms were painted by an Italian named Verrio apd are quite handsome. Among noted pictures is one representing the meeting of Henry VIII. and Francis I. on a field near Calais, called from the magnificence of display * the cloth of gold.' Henry's tent was of golden cloth, and two gold fountains on the lawn sent up wine in place of water. The court beauties of Charles II. and William III. are shown on canvas; the state bed of the latter king is hung with crimson damask, and that of his queen with crimson velvet. In another room the state bed of queen Charlotte has drapery of lilac satin, while the ceiling represents night and morning. Chairs, otto- mans and beds have pardonably faded, and on each the indus- trious tooth of time is quietly working. In the guard chamber swords, guns, pistols and bayonets are formed in figures, as seen to greater advantage in the Tower. Room 32 contains portions of Nelson's flag-ship • Victory,' in which he won the memorable battle of Trafalgar. From time of Henry VIII. to George II., Hampton Court was an occasional home ibr British kings; if is new a roost for decayed lords and persons in receipt of court pension. The astronomical clock is one of the bears of Hampton. It was built in 1540, and after centuries of use, got out of repair, was removed from its place and hid in a closet. Some dozen years ago a decree went forth that the old clock be put to rights and restored to use and honor. The works were found eaten with rust and a new one was made after the original model. All that now remains is the ingenious and elaborate dial, composed of three discs, the largest, in diameter, seven feet. By skilful contrivance the hours, days, months, motions of the sun and moon are represented. A grape-vine planted in the garden 120 M I it. i. il 'I -—ft : i U !ii 1 ' i I RAMBLES IN KUROPK ' u A {r^ fruit and dimen ons. Lst.exce.lent majesty. A ™^„„„„bed » natural de- and the nver front^^ <"<« ° j (,ome two feet by five) ^^^^^ ~a;;ra with iX^ ^?f ^'I^o^'^c: -e »d on from destruction. 1" ^^^^^^^ '" %oncem was to look alter in arTving at Hampton -Y f ^^^ seated are not rare m doctored elm. K^t uec America and Europe oamnton Court are said to be hve ThP grounds attached to Hampwi creatures. Jet in drcuit, well ^^-^^/,:,t t^^^s grav^^^^^ half » muc ^^^„„j of great cne» ^, P^P''; .\«Tw to match it. S.X P^^'^'l ™*l,ounds are a the palace has tew lu ■. sunbeams. Ine P°""" , each side, in tiers straight « J™ ^ f„ that purpose on most f^rite r;sort for picmcs at^f ^ej^^^ ;„„ber of visitors on «.« refine day in sumrner. ' ?' P'^f "' „„mber falling short of Z,o.^ ''rUcrS' lVTJo%ards from the rS^- s^red byTfi/etidge, at the opposUe -d ° ;h-h^, spanneaoy population qf 5>oo°' ^ ' ^uikv than mine fchool he became tutor to a noWeman^^^ V create knights, counts palatme, v ■Ay ra KNliLAND 17 ns. iss- this i as it is en's long and long iaved id on r the re in e five itures. ts, fish The renting :nt has younger Lding to d along 3 are a 3n most i on one short of ver, here s Hamp- ttempted an mine rigue and the most He was ; reaching er leaving ,m that to enry Vll., sor, privy )f Lincoln, power to )ecame the Pope's legate and was twice candidate for the papal chair. He had power to confer degrees in art, law and physic, while dis- pensations of every sort were at his finger ends. In Britain he exercised the prert>gatives of sovereign pontiff, besides directing all important affairs of state. For seven years he and king Harry ruled the country, without consulting lords or commons, till in 1523 they asked one-fifth of each man's possessions. Caven- dish, a gentleman usher, put on record the Cardinal's household arrangements, shov/ing his scale of living to surpass that of monarchs. When residing as uncrowned king at Hampton his retinue consisted of about 1000 persons; and he u.sed to boast of being able to entertain 300 guests and give each a silken bed. Europe contained only one who rose above him m affluence and power — namely, the Pope. There is no question as to Wolsey's commanding talents and far-seeing policy; but his ambition was boundless, with arrogance to suit. When at his best, with Henry VI 11, playing second fiddle, his favorite expression was, * 1 and my king.' But offending the burly monarch in one of his courting rackets, this great Sennacherib was, one by one, stripped of his honors, arrested for treason and on his way to London taken ill at I^eicester, where three days after he breathed his last. » • • My next trip to London was by one of the western routes, starting from Liverpool on May 13th. The day was mild and warm, with great heaps of somber clouds and occasional spells of sunshine. The scenery was lovely— the whole country appeared like a garden, so clean, well-kept and cultured. Wind- ing streams were frequent, bordered with willows, bimches of trees and patches of forest." Early variety of trees were in full leaf; others in a stage less fonvard. Apple, pear and cherry were masses of pink or white; nurseries and often whole fields were ablaze with flowers the most attractive. Meadows were spangled with daisies, dandelions and buttercups — wild flowers along the track — furze and lilac in blossom. Grain fields were showing green, and work in that line appeared finished. Trees and hedges were vocal with birds of song — rooks were having a say after their own fasion. Well-fed kine lay on sloping banks, under spreading trees, stood in pools or drank from rivulets. Station, track and train were in the best condition, while every stop and start was true to time as clock-work. The passengers were well-clad and well-preserved, with an air of ease and comfort. The very landscape declared that peace and content reigned within that small dominion; and with the enthusiast of other days, P { n I y*l rambi.es in kurope "* ..i^inK-- Dear old England', with all .hy faults I ""^'nllla^ ta ^ace of SO.o- ,-.''-^/^X?»Wimmmg mere vUlage w » I j^j^^.j. atcrewe. . r^y^^^ daily passmg *""g'/ J^„ places, we -^on-e 'o ^"8'^^ ^„. »' ^"^n'e !s" eT^^ded'whici tnay bear repeM.ng. A few^^^ ^ Rugeley. ^^*'^".'"5„:ning that Rugeley had got in ^^^^,.j,^ed a»4 vui?.ge!>, ""- , , 'fa,ll chimneys p" volcanic '^f-^r SLlTer W>t and grea. f--" r;eirnai "he inas into the uppei t^ . London, is wcu "r^eefof S?but is mar..>factured, U^^^"^^^ ^J.,„ ^ 'S-pen °rade, and now ";?,°°f ^rr an'old-couutr, to« "-<=^ rhafber^Pi^'- Pr-nt popula^" b-g 500.- capacity of 3,000, and its orga e. cd a ins ing his ing •u\a [\by ned, nged imall days ■ough tation ■epute ;cided ething stering )lied— \e and g wpon bowed ITS the of >ct, the Its d some- e. For ig towns leaps of iky offer- volcamc Lined the lade from ,rly ii^the i.d to be iitn town, 500,000, a seating in Britain. KNOLAND «9 Birmingham is a busy spot, and it is said that 4^0 trains daily pass through its depot. We are now in VVarwic.kshirc, a beautiful interesting country. Here is Kerilwonh castle, founded some 800 years ago and rated the most extensive ruin in Britain. The material is red sandstone, resembling a good deal that found in this province. In 1*56 it stood a six-month siege, and some of the stone balls thrown by engines are seen about the structure. In 1563, Elizabeth gave the castle to Dudley Earle of Leicester, who repaired it at much expense. The Norman keep was 1 00x80, consisting of four towers connected by walls 16 feet in thickness. The high'^st part of Caesar's tower is 90 feet and commands a good view of the country. Till abotit 60 years ago the place had been a quarry from which people carried stone $ to mend Btables and dykes; but now tourists are let in at a shilling per head, and from his exact description, one would suppose the guide had helped to lay each stone in position. Here ajf shown the fosse, portcullis, guardrooms, sallyports, cells, loopholes, banquet hall, and pot the least important, a fireplace in which an ox whole could be roasted. Not a few of these are imaginary; but as the visitor has bought a book and paid for attendance he may as well not be too skeptical and take the worth of his money. One of the towers is covered with ivy, the main stock being fully the size of a person's body. Think of that ye who fancy ivy to be a mere weedling. The ruin is worth a visit and wouW be more enjoyable if one were allowed to cruise round by himself and not be harassed with help at every turn. The town of Warwick it; next on the program. Wh_n Domesday book was compiled (over 800 years ago) it contained 260 houses, and was before that time a royal boroagh. It' is chiefly of note on account of its castle, one of the finest barornial homes in Europe. The present pile dates back 550 years, bat it has since undergone changes. Twenty years ago a large section Was destroyed by fire, together with valued contents; but the part has been restored at cost of some $90,000. The grounds are enclosed with high, thick walls, and entered through ponderous gates at which a uniformed porter is always watching. A roadway about 1 00 yards long and cut a dozen feet into the rock, leads from gate to castle. The moat is dry and clothed with verdant beauty; the drawbridge passed, a step farther and we are under the portcullis, with great, rusted teeth. The tourist is now taken in charge by an official heavily striped with gold, who hurries through with inconvenient haste. The great hall is 'm *' • i ' ' '1 N 20 RAMBLES IN EUROPE 62x40 feet, with richly carved gothic roof. On the floor is spread the skin of a huge tiger, its glassy eyes staring towards the entrance. On a sled before the great fireplace is piled a heap of wood; and near by is Guy Warwick's porridge pot, hold- ing about :)o oallcns. The walls are hung with lances, corslets, shields, helmets and complete suits of armor — the helmet of Cromwell being among them. The red drawing-room contains paintings by Reubens, Rembrant and Vandyke; old cabinets, urns, clocks and vasec; also a marble top inlaid with precious stones and lapis lazuli, said to have belonged to M-^rie Antoinette, the beautiful queen of trance. The cedar drawing-room (44x25 feet) has a marble chimney piece said to have no match in Britain; : ..so a top inlaid with lava from Vesuvius, Etruscan vases, pictures and rare things. The ceiling of the gilt drawing- room is extremely handsome, and the wall? exhibit piciures by Vandyke and others. The §tate bedroom is hung with tapestry made in Brussels 300 years ago, the figures supposed to represent the gardens of Versailles near Paris. The bed, with fringes of crimson velvet, belonged to Queen Anne and was presented by her to the Gievilles. The armory is set on with weapons f"om most parts of he globe, arranged in artistic figures. The chapel has stained-glass windows and relics of old time found about the place. In the conservatory is the Warwick vase said to be the largest in existence. It is of white marble, five feet high, about six feet across and holds 136 gallons. It stands on a pedestal and is in shape of a shallow bowl, with looped handles. The castle stands on the brink of the winding Avon, and is surrounded by lovely parks. A giani cedar of Lebanon rears its head against the walls, its seed said to have been brought home by crusaders in the ^ith or isth century. The grassy slopes and sylvan glades are dotted with great beech, oak and pine — the trunk of one I measured being over 15 feet in circuit. On a lovely wooded slope across the river a company of youth and maidens were enjoying a fete, with danc2s, swings and gambols — in other words having a picnic. The founding of Warwick castle is obscured in historic mist, and the occupants have held at one time or other every good position except the throne. The family thrice became extinct in direct line, and were kept up through collateral branches. The leading names were Beauchamp, Neville and Greville. It was Richard Neville (Earl of Warwick who flourished 430 years ago) that turned Henry VI. away and placed Duke of York (as Edward VI.) ENGliAffD 21 r IS ards jd a lold- slets, et of itains inets, icious inette, 443^25 ;ch in ruscan ■awing- )iciures g with ipposed ed, with nd was off with artistic s of old on the thrones The latter not giving satisfaction, was in turn- deposed by the doughty Neville. The present owner is George Guy Greville, Earl of Brooke and Warwick. The town (with 12,000 people} spreads along the side and top of a hill; and in ascerrding the principal street a gateway of the old wall is passed, looking ancient as the arch of Titus. Near the courthouse stands an old-fashioned place with a tablet stating that Thomas O'Ken dwelt there and was good to the poor. O'Ken flourished in the i6th centurj', but his memory is pre- served by a yearly celebration, called O'Ken's feast. The burgesses attend church ' to hear a sermon and pray for^he souls of Thomas 0'K.en, his wife and all good Christians departed.' The feast follows, the whole business being done in accordance with O'Ken's ' last will and testament,' The collegiate hospital founded in 1571 will interest the tfeurist. It was intended for 'a master and 1 2 brethren,' old soldiers from the town and parish. By some curious freak these ancient duffers aie required to wear short, blue cloaks like students at Oxford, and a kind of silver badge. The building is over 500 years old and contains a chapel in which ' the brethren ' daily assemble for worship. In September, 161 7, king James I. was entertained there by Sir Fuike Greville and a great tablet on 'the wall states the fact; while a chair on which the pedant sat is preserved as a valued relic. An Egyptian urn in the garden is said to have been part of a water measurer on the Nile. St. Mary's church dates from before the conquest, has a hanJsome spire, with ten bells in its tower. Leamington, a (gw miles off, is a clean handsome city with mineral springs, fine public gardens and a favorite .spot with tourists. Horse-cars run between it and Warwick. Stratford is nine miles off, a qiii'it old-fashioned town with 6000 people and formerly the home of SI akespeare. The house consists of a lower room, floored with stones a good deal broken. It has a wide chimney, and a rude stair ascends to a low- ceiled room with plastered walls in which (1564) the king of dramatists first dr<:w breath. The walls are so covered with names that no amount of skill and patience could add another without intringement. Here are the names of every modern genius, besides those of kings and princes, great men and nobles, rich men and poor. Barnum over 30 y«ars ago wished to pur- chase the house, divide it in sections, ship it to New York and there rebuild. The town authorities learned of the venture just in time to frustrate the showman's scheme; otherwise admirers of the bard would now turn their faces to (iotham. In a beautiful 13 'f; i ,; * RAMBLES IN EUROPE church nicely placed among limes by the Avon, lie the remains of ShaKespeare, his wife and daughter. The inscription (known to most readers) is scarcely what one would expect from a master genius. Without following the i6th century spelling, here it is: — 'Good friend, for Jesus' sake forbear To dig the dust enclosed here. Blessed be the man thut spares these stones, And cursed be he who moves my bones.' It is stated that in digging a grave alongside, a clumsy sexton broke into the poet's coffin and saw the remains, but was deterred frcra moiesting by the imprecation above. Next is the tomb of his favorite daughter Susanna, who from the long inscription must have been a superior woman. His "'ife (Ann Hath way) is buried near — they are all in the chancel. From the slight notice in his will, it is conjecfured that (like most literary genius) he did not enjoy happiness at home. This is only a surmise, however. The family tree failed to take root: Susanna {Mrs, Hall) had only one daughter, who after being twice married, left no issue. His daughter Judith had no offspring, and his son Hamnet died at eleven. Tlie small town of Banbury calls up far-away recollections of Juvenile classics. From here some 25 miles to east brings to Northampton, with 60,000 people. This old place figured much in English civil wars, was noted for many councils held there and for its redoubtable castle. It once had a university and several parliaments met there. In a village church not far off, an inscription on brass marks the tomb of Laurence Washington, twice mayor of Northampton (1532 and '45), while a shield in the pavement shows the stars and stripes to have been the family arms. A great-grandson emigrated to Virginia in 1657; and hli great-grandson became in lime the 'father of his country/ to whom citizens paid the loud homage of adopting his family arms as national emblem of their new republic. Bedford is of small interest except that John Bunyan wrote his allegory in its jail. A monument to the great dreamer was erected here in 1874. Bedford has about 18,000 people and some manufactures. The town sewage is made to fertilize an extensive farm near the city. Oxford is 63 miles north-we.st of London and has about 35,000 people. As we associate Manchester with cotton, so Oxford starts the idea of classic lore; even so far back as the eighth century the town was rated an ancient seat of learning. King Alfred resided 'U it, and Harold was crowned and died there. ENGLAND 23 ams own ister is: — The town is situated at the junction of Thames and Cherwell, and is nearly surrounded by these streams. (The Thames here is called lim — a name taken from Egyptian mythology.) The university which forms so important a feature, consists of 21 colleges and four halls, each being a complete establishment with its professors, students, revenues and regulations; but all are united under the university of vvhich they form members. The follow- ing list gives the names with supposed date of their founding: University, 872; Baliol, 1268; Merton, 1274; Exeter, 1314; Oriel, 1326; Queen's, 1340; New College, 1386; Lincoln, 1427; AH Souls, 1437; Magdalen, MS^; Brasenose, 1509; Corpus Christi, 1516, Christchurch, 1546; Trinity, 1554; St. John's, 1555; Jesus College, 1571; VVadham, 1613; Pembroke, 16245 Worcester, 1 714; Hertford, 1822; Keble, 1868. The halls are — St. Edmund, 1317; St. Mary, 1333; New Inn, 1438; St. Alban, 1546. The colleges are manned by 36 professors and about 100 tutors, their pay ranging from .£50 to £900 a year — the Sanscrit professor receiving the highest figure. The principal difference between halls and colleges is that the latter hold charters, the former do not. In one case the head teachers are styled professors; in the other, principals. In attainment of degrees and university privilege, no difference exists between hall and college students. The whole number is usually about 3000, giving an average of about 150 to each — the highest 250, the lowest 50. Chijstchurch was founded by Cardinal Wolsey and surpasses all the rest in magnificence. Its street front is 400 feet long, '.vith circular toweiv in which is hung the famous bell — ' Great Tom of Oxford.' It weighs eight tons, and is tolled at 9 p. m. as signal for closing the gates. Magdalen is noted for the beautiful proportions of its tower, admitted to have no rival in Britain. The divinity school is a hall of wonderful magnificence, used at examinations for university degrees in divinity. The groined arches and bosses composing its roof are rarely surpassed. The new examination schools for the university (opened ten years ago) is a handsome and showy building. In St. Mary's church Wycklift'e preached against the errors of his day; and to it Cranmer, Ridley and Latimer were cited in 1554, to dispute with the divines of Oxford and Cambridge anent the com- munion. Methodism claims Oxford as its birth-place, and in 1878 was opened Wesley's memorial chapel, built where formerly stood a house in which Wesley picached. Baliol college was lounded by Sir John de Baliol, father of the Scottish king of that name. Near it stands the martyr;'' monument, aliout 100 feet m iij ■..! I ■ M RAMBLES IN KI.'ROPF, I? high and a magniluem work of art. It was hiiilt in 1840 in memory of" Thomfls Craiimer, Nicholfts Ridlt7, Hugh Latimer, prelates of the Knglish chlirch, who were burnt here in 1555-6. In Oxford museum is preserved king Alfred's jewel and the sword presented (in 1514) by the I'lpe to Henry V^IIl. with the title 'defender of the faith.' The bull conferring the title is in the British museum, and also a copy of Henry's book whirh gained the Pope's favor. In the Kgyptian collection is shown a limestone tablet (time of .Sethes, H. C. 4,700) inscribed with hieroglyphics and prol)ably the oldest bit of sculpture in existence. The Bodleian library (founded in 1445) contains 240.000 books, besides 20,000 manuscripts and literary treas- sure. Here can be seen the exercise-books used by Kdward V!. and queen Elizabeth when children; also the lantern Guy Kawkes carried when apprehended under the house of commons on November 5th. 1605. The university press is a widely-known institution. In a room 200x70 feet and other rooms adjoining, 50 presses and five riding machines arc constantly working. The establishment produces its own stereotype, printing ink, roller composition and operates a type foundry. It is said to possess fonts over 200 years old, and is rated the most perfect printing outfit in the world. The botanic garden is beautifully placed — on one side the smooth-trowing Cherwell, fringed with great trees, their branches trailing deep iH|the water; on the other, college founfjations, seemingly old enough to rival the stt)ne-heaps of (iizeh. The Thames (hh) is lined with barges, supplied with every con- venience for students who have rich fathers and love acquatic sjwrt. During lent and summer terir.s the college eight-oar races come off, when about 50 crews comj)ete for the glory which Englishmen attach to development of muscle. Needless to say, these races draw great crowds and are extremely exciting. The surrounding country s plea.sant in summer, varied with hills and l>atches of forest. . lie building material is sandstone of warm drab color, is easily dressed and looks well but doesn't stand the weather. On this account the place looks unduly ancient, and a l)uilding a few centuries old might pass as rival in years to Birs Nimrod. vM^kiV.-'/.;. v--:-^-r.i :.->J#t ; WALES AND IRELAND. Some time in July 1 set out for Wales and Ireland; but a naval review coming off at Portsmouth on the 23 rd, I had to hasten back without seeing much of either coimtry. From London I WAI,RS AND IRRI-AMD •s side the • branches iiniations, /xV.. The •very con- e acquatic eight-oar riory which 'icHs to says iling. '^'^"'*; th hiUs and ^Q of warm lesn't stand xi\y ancient, v;i\ in years westward the route is tame and devoid of interest. B«th, loG miles west of London, is the first place of importance; the town derives its name and income from mineral springs, for which it has long been noted. It was a favorite pine? with the Romans and numerous remains of their works have l)een discovered. It rises like an amphitheater from the winding Avon and the hills above are finely wooded. It has grand old churches and parks, while six handsome buildings are connected with the mineral waters. Its population is about 60,000, and as summer resort, it ranks first in Britain. Ten miles from Bath brings to Bristol, also on the Avon and eight miles from its mouth. The city is unevenly placed on seven hills, there being 300 feet difference of level between highest and lowest places. The newer parts are regular and handsome, but in the old town streets arc narrow. Bristol, with a^o,©©© people, ranks third among English seiports — about 5000 craft clearing from it per annum. Karly this century an artificial harbor was constructed st cost of $3,000,000, capable of holdmg a thousand vessels. The place has besides, some two miles of quays and some excellent docks. Bristol cathedral ranks among the finest in Britain, and Redcll^e with its handsome spire is rated the best parish < hurch in England. The place has important manufactures, great engineering works and shipbuilding. Bristol had some desperate riots in its time — the bridge riots in 1793 and the free-trade riots in 1831 being the most excessive. In the latter 500 persons are said to have been killed and 100 houses demolished — the mansion house, bishop's palace and prison among them. Calx)t the navigator, Chatterton and Southey, poets, Bowdich the traveller and other noted men were natives of Bristol. At Clifton (a fa.shionabie suburb) the Avon is crossed by a suspension bridge 700 feet span and 240 feet above high water. It formerly crossed the Thames between Waterloo and Westminster, and was transferred to its present site in i860. The Severn tunnel (some 20 milei north) is the next object of interest. It is 4j^ miles long, 2)^ of which are under the river. The width and height are 26x20 feet, and the lining (of vitrified brick) is 30 inches. Work was begun in 1873 and in 1887 ^^^ tube was op-^ned for traffic. The difficulties were of no ordinary kind and nothing but pluck, skill and sovereigns could establish the issue. When the borings were within 120 yards, a land spring was tapped which in less than a day flooded the works. After untold trouble, great exjjense and loss of lime the spring was stopped. Next a hole ten feet wide broke !<;■ .)! ft f « RAMBLES IN KUROPE through and stopped the business. This after immense labor was overcome. The borings were connected in i88i,and by advice of a new engineer the rails were lowered 15 feet to leave greater thickness under the river. In October, 1883, the former spring broke through, flooding the works about an inch per minute. This was the worst yet, but the difficulty was finally upset and the excavation cleared by machinery of greater power. Next a tidal wave descended the shafts and flooded a section; this however was not a serious matter. A dozen pumps were in use, average diameter 34 inches and capable of raising some 40,000 gallons per minute. In mid-channel, there is 55 feet at low, and 86 at spring tide. The undertaking was no small affair and cost the great western railway over ten million dollars. Newport with 30,000 people and about ad. .en miles from the Severn, is the next place of importance. It otands on the Usk, four miles from its mouth, has large shipping trade and spacious docks. In the neighborhood are extensive collieries and works in iron and tin, Newport has an old castle, now converted into a brewery. A dozen miles west and we are in Cardiff, at mouth of the Taff", with immense trade in coal and metals. By im- proved machinery vessels are laden with coal at rate of two tons per minute; and its docks (100 acres in extent) were made at cost of one million sovereigns. The growth of the place has been remarkably fast, and it has now about 100,000 people. Cardiff" castle (once a noted stronghold) was erected in 1 080. Swansea is an important trade center, 40 miles west and facing Bristol channel. It has numerous docks, immense trade in iron, steel, brass and spelter — its copper works being rated the first in Britain. The town is built at foot and along the side of a hill, the western parts being c-k»r and attractive. Four miles to . south, a narrow ridge extends eastwards, known as ' the Mumbles,' on the point of which stands a signal station and light- house. Between the Mumbles and Swansea are the ruins of Ostermouth castle, dating from the i ith or 1 2th century. Swan- sea has large shipping and ship-building trade; its population is about 68,000. Llanelly (half-dozen miles west) is a seaport with 1 6,000 people; has four docks, extensive works in copper and lead, and for its size more tall chimneys than ever I counted, farther on is Caermarthen, of note in past ages. It was thel birthplace of general Picton, who gloriously fell at Waterloo in| defence of his country. My- next stop was at Tenby, a small watering place on tht south coast, and a favorite spot with tourists. It is built on WALES AND IRELAND 27 nmense labor 1881, and by ' feet to leave i3, the former t an inch per tlty was finally greater power, ded a section; ;n pumps were of raising some here is 55 f^et a was no small rmillion dollars, n miles from the nds on the Usk, ide and spacious ieries and works ,w converted mto Cardiff, at mouth metals. By im- al at rate of two ixtent) were made y of the place has ; 100,000 people, erected in 1080. swest and facing mmense trade m ks being rated the along the side ot ctive. Four miles is, known as 'the al station and bght- i are the ruins ot |th century. Swan- its population is «rest) is a seaport ve works in copper han ever I counted, ages. It was tl^e fell at Waterloo m cliff, and hotels a few yards from the edge have steps cut down to the water. Its bathing facilities are unsurpassed and the place is largely used for that purpose. An ancient wall of un- known date winds through the town, and old castle ruins are on a point jutting into the bay. On a rock a few hundred yards from the shore, a fort was lately built, mounting nine guns and garrisoned by a quarter dozen. As the harbor is shoal, the work resembles the fifth wheel to a carriage. A traveller who may have spent weeks among the wonders of Rome can find much to interest him at Tenby. South Wales is little calculated for farming, but its mineral resources are important. At night furnace fires are blazing on every hand and the air at noon is dark with smo'.e from smelting works and foundries. The scenery is no way fine, but the frequency of hamlets and houses nestling among trees is most attractive. All houses being severely white, look delightful among green foliage. What I saw of the Welsh people favorably impressed me. They arc kind, industrious and clean to the Jast scruple. Being hay- making time, it was not unusual to see half-dozen persons (mostly girls) in a field swinging hand-rakes. Fieldworkers all stop and wave their hats when a train is passing; and being an orphan and alone, this show of friendship in a strange land was well iccepted. 1 »vo steamers ply between the southwest corner of Wales and Waterford in Ireland — distance no miles. The town is built twelve miles up the Suir, apparently a mere creek, but with some 40 feet of water. Waterford with about 22,000 people, is rather a nice-looking town, with interesting ruins and fine scenery at short distance. In front of a large hotel I noticed a sentinel on duty, and in passing I inquired why the house was protected. * I dare not speak to you,' he whispered; but I afterwards learned that a judge from Dublin was staying at the hotel. I thought this was going too far in a place seemingly quieter than Oxford; and I felt that were I a Waterford boy, I would try to set oif a grenade under his honor's cassock. Most of the country from Waterford to Killarncy looks extremely wretched; the soil is so hard, rocky and divided into such minute sections as to make farming (as we understand it) a mere burlesque. Yet I under- stood that six dollars a year rent was paid for the worst of it. From what I saw it appeared evident that the money on which Irish rentlords revel in foreign land is earned in America and sent home by sons and daughters. The dwellings are mere huts and a horse is rarely seen — donkeys and goats being the pre- H RAMBl.FS IN EUROPE ^* (.Quld be inferred B«pte a handsome c^^^f%^!S-^<-^' ''*"°" °"%d crowd deserves premium. T»"^«f„ ,i,e, 680 acres and the :~d covers Soo^''-^;/^, "several i^'-^ "^ V"Xtee"; ^■:S fne- Jrh-%t^ -r Sdl w^l «o/df a are in sight, resembhng a ^ »«ya ^^^ j„„ '*=''""' *re beautiful drives along the lake ^ « .^ ^ picturesque "eede^ to do the thing )"^"'=%iewed by n-oon-light, it surpasses ?ut with green 'VV ,'^"^^-: „" the courtyard extends .ts'.mbs Ross castle .s »"<"?>" f7"o>v on the lakes, and at a ce -^ttSr dStths'th: eX with j>i^„'^-£i jsf s JeCn 1 S in a ^-^-Te' echo had Tcicely quit laughmg Kearnev, now occupied by ner rep o beauly. Here one ^hrSe and name b^;Xe .0 tal^ wrecked steamer, were gets blessings enough for a aim WALKS AND IRELAND 39 3500 is sup- one is passed, public, unt will rressive allarney les long and the nisfallcn, oily trees moded, a nd of fly lid attract ins, rising rom their )zen peaks e. There ) days are jicturesque t surpasses ds its limbs )nes in the Irish stoiT- )f latest cut. tt a certain rtly after my )urist, seeing uit laughing on his folly. lere a rivulet the entrance beauty Kate |er__inheriting ^. Here one steamer, were the blessings effective. In doing the lakes I had ir.y first experi- ence of the jaunting car, which for short journeys in good weather is excellent. It is ia one-horse vehicle with two wheels, and carries four besides the driver. At leaving, the head waiter accompanied me to the station. He was a smart y ung man in cleric black, white tie and exten- sive show of linen. I, in Canadian tweed, almost felt that he compromised his rank by walking with me. * I suppose (said he) you think I get Pne pay here in the hotel.' ' I certainly think you should (was the reply), seeing that you pretty much run the business.' ' Well (he said) I don't get a penny except what you and others give — not one penny.' He informed me that hotel waiters and porters, as a rule, received nothing except what they got by tipping. Besides the scores who solicit alms owing to indigence or age, a still greater number beg by virtue of their position. Not only so, but in some instances waiters pay an admission fee to the hotel for the privilege of allowing them to work for nothing. I don't mean to say that tipping is more general here than elsewhere — it exists throughout Europe. The system is contemptible and tourists from the western world should make a point of patronizing no hotel where it is in fashion. An institution is good or ill according as it effects the country. The system of renting land in large areas is radically wrong because its effects are injurious to the people. 1 have always thought that Irish landlords were the principal cause of that country's unhappy state, and I had no reason to change my views on mingling with its people. No country could prosper while rents are increased according as the tenant makes his hold- ing of greater value. The system lays a ban on industry and offers a premium to negligence and want. No measure is better calculated to reverse the wheels of progress and bring down a land to barbarism, or some such condition. Turkey is ever on the downward grade because the industrious man is fleeced by law, while his neighbor, living mostly by begging and theft, has nothing on which the taxgatherer can levy. Again, it is scarcely too much to say that Ireland under its present sway is far too much governed. Many of the laws fit the national disposition about as well as winter clothing would answer in Turkey. Laws that would suit German people would drive the French to suicide: in like manner Saxon laws are ill suited to fiery Celts. The Irish cannot bear the weighty hand of rude repression, which for years they have experienced. For generations Ireland has been a hotbed of discontent, until that unhappy state has become its 'ii ll' i' , \' !;i J B I i ; ^ RAMBLES IN.EUROPF. ^ ^^ » ed to agitate with independent. , '„„, distinguished by anything Mv return to London «»^ "° frCtsmouth. The town .taniU. and on Ju.y .3rd s« out for^^ , „d •^ r;\Z e'ast' e'nd of'wight. Less than o jea^^.^ .« ^„„. •^^ense and for ifications were «movf^^J^fdrcover ..5 acres ^irtu«r&es!^:^& .:- --S "^vc^XgHo^ »a bat^Smmro'nsof bricW usedjn The roadway between r ^^^ ^^^^e on J"'? ;J ;.«ir a dozen miles long by four in wiu , proceedings. Tnavafrevlw took Place as ^^^;g\;le^^^^^^ The day was fine and except a single ^.^^^ ,^ery kind of to mar the enjoyment. ,^^f ^^^ified as follows : 26 armored vesSt or war implement ^A^^^' ^^,X g,m^°^'^ ""^ '"'''''"''' id torpedo boats ano ■ r 5,0ns more "-^'"i . ' jble ''r' ^an Che rJmense ?»«" »' f 'P:„!"f„r* r l^play. I'Xnce pu the present ^-f* X" ge vViU-, divided into The fleet was under command of Snt.eorg ^^^^^ ■ thousand pound shot than ^ P^'/Xy looK superb; and at ^-r thTt,: tSarpoTrand speed increase,«ne appear^ ENGLAND 3« vflh Lake »get g to id be The move sense ylhing ; town n, and igo its is con- 5 acres jhouses. costing used in achinery jstablish- rtcss. ^ Wigbt 18 )uly 33rd (ceedings. occurred kind of armored uisers, 3^ 3,200, and may Viave eir terrible er display, divided into ards apart, otaur' and small value, i\d be more few inches ^ against a with yards ,erb; and at fine appear- ance diminish. I'he ' CoUingwood,' with 44-ton guns, has a pole called a military mast, with double tops for machine guns. The ' Sultan ' and ' Monarch ' took part in bombarding Alex- andria in 1882; and the ' Inflexible,' throwing 1700-pound shot, silenced fort Pharos before dinner. The troop-ships, tho only half the tonnage of first-class warships, are yet of good dimen- sions — being each 6000 tons. These great white castles steam- ing majestically past the deeply-sunk, steel-faced fighting mon- sters, formed the most imposing feature of the program. On board of them were lords, commons, peers, peeresses, ambassadors, Indian and colonial visitors, representatives of the press — besides a miscellaneous host which no one could number. The ' Victory ' and ' Duke of Wellington ' (both dismantled) are moored near the Isle of Wight. On the former is a brass plate on the spot where Nelson fell at memorable Trafalgar, on Octobbr 2 1 St, 1805. They are representatives of ' England's wooden walls,' now dropped astern into history. Though less than 150 cratt were concerned in the review, the number of ' spectators' was perhaps 20 times as many. These consisted of steam and sailing vessels of every rig and tonnage — all gay with flags. The review ships, tho at anchor, all had steam up, and I could not help thinking of the hundreds, sweat- ing among heat and dirt below, not a few with head and heart as good as those in higher places. While saluting, the breech piece of a gun (not properly shut) allowed the charge to tal^e wrong direction, blowing to atoms a gunner and perhaps fatally wounding three others. Soon after 3 p. m., the royal yacht was seen approaching, the admiralty flag at foremast and royal standard at her main, showing the Queen was on board. Im- mediately guards of marines were turned up, flags dipped, anchors weighed and a gun from the ' Inflexible ' was signal for others to open. To me this was the most enjoyable feature, tho the Queen is much averse to gunpowder racket. When the umoke had cleared, the yards ol masted ships, the turrets and decks of others were seen to be crowded thick with sailors. Red-coats on deck, blue-jackets on yards and in rigging made a fine picture against the clear sky. B>en those savage furies, the torpedo boats, each ranged on deck its dozen men to make as brave a show as any. As the royal yacht steamed past, marines saluted, bands played and commanders on bridges led off in cheers. The Queen surrounded by two generations and maids of honor, sat under a rich awning and smiled blandly as each craft joined in the fray. Prince of Wales had on his new |r •1 Sa KAMIU.KS IN'KrROFK / • I: I. admiral suit, a |)arlor hero more brave than Nelson. Indian princes on the 'Mahibar' troop-ship were conspicuous — their rich uniforms ahla/.e with gold t\nd jewels. On its return the Hotilla anchored oi)posite the 'Inflexible/ when admiral Willes, with flag-orticers and captains under his command, went on board the royal yacht, where a kind of levee was held. At close of proceedings her majesty issued the following order : ' Convey to officers and men under your com- mand that the (^ueen has great satisfaction in the display made by her navy this afternoon.' On returning, each captain read the order to his crew assembled on the quarter-deck. The royal flotilla again got in motion, yards »vere manned, bands were furious, guns seiU forth a parting volley, answered by forts on shore, and the naval review was a thing of the past. At night the illumuiations on board were fine beyond des- cription. By means of red and blue lights, ships looked as if draped in flame; and electric lights thrown upwards formed an arch over the fleet said to be seen at 50 miles distance. Each ship had a line of lanterns from stem to stern, while a rainbow of lamps passed over the rigging. Bouquets of rockets and brilliant salvos of Roman candles were sent up witli grand effect, .\fter the fireworks, came a display of electric search- lights, forming a series of avenues beyond any possibility to des- cribe. By II p. m., all v. as over and night ge ling things its Qwn way, let down the curtains. • . • , > . It may not be amiss here to give the strength and tonnage of the largest vessels that took part. F»rst the flagship ' Inflexible,' launched in 1876, 320 feet long, 26 feet draft, ii,88o tons, 8000 horse-power, armor-plating 16, 20 and 24 inches on 24 inches of wood. Her citadel is 110x75 feet, rising 20 feet above water, has four 80-ton guns in turret and eight lighter guns for quick firing; speed 14 knots, wi :» coal for 5000 miles; cost about $4,000,000. — The ' Agt-;. '.rt,' an old-fashioned broadside, length 400 feet, beam 60 ■oet, 28 feet draft, 10,690 tons, 6870 h. p.; armor-plating 45/^5^ on 10 inches of oak; has eight 12- ton guns, with 1 4 light guns and 1 5 machine guns; two torpedo tubes; speed 14 knots and coal for 1300 miles. — ' Minotaur,' a ship of same pattern and dimensions; is little faster and has two rifled six-inch guns and four torpedo tubes in addition. When built, over 20 years ago, these ships were considered monsters; now they are considered of small value. In like manner, the furies of to-day will no doubt be despised 20 years hende. — The Hercules, a center-battery ship, built 1878, 325 feet long, 59 KNOI.ANI) Jj d des- \ as if ned an Each rainbow ets and \ grand search- f to des- iings its feCi beam, 2j feci draft, 8680 tons, 6750 h. p.; armor-pUting 6 and 9 inches; eight brcecb-looding 10 ton gunM and four of 7 inches, besides 10 smaller ones and 14 machine guns, four torpedo tubes; speed 14 knots; coal for 1760 miles. — The • Monarch' launched in 1879, length 330 feet, 28 feet draft, 8320 tons, 7840 h. p.; armor on sides 5 to 7 inches, un turret 8 to 10 inches; four 35-ton guns, four torpedo tubes; 8i>e';d 15 knots, coal for 1500 miles. — The 'Ajax' is a turret ship built in 1883; length 280 feet, draft 24 feet, 8510 tons, 6440 h. p.; turrets armed with four 38-ton guns, ten tighter ones and 14 machine guns, two torpedo tubes; speed 13}^ knots, coal for 4000 miles. — The'Col- lingwood' launched 1886; 325 feet long, 68 feet beam, 26 feet draft, 9150 tons, 9570 h. p., twin screw, guns 32 .'cet above water on towers 140 feet apart; has four rifled 43 -ton guns, 14 machine guns, four torpedo tubes; speed i6^ knots, coal for 8500 miles, cost $3,000,000. — The • Colossus ' is a sister ship. — The ♦ Imperieuse ' is a belted crui.ser built in 1 886, armour 8 tb 10 inches protecting magazine and machinery, hull sheathed with copper; has four 18-ton guns, 14 smaller and 14 machine guns, six torpedo tubes, speed 17 knots with coal Jor 7300 miles. The • Camperdown,' ♦ Benbow ' and • Anson ' are new cruisers, twin screw, with coal for 8500 miles. At time of her majesty's coronation in 1837, ^^^ British navy consisted of wooden sailing ships, the two largest each carrying 1 20 guns; four second-rate ships of 72, 84 and 96 guns; eleven third-rate, with frigates and war-sloops. It is no exaggeration to say that one first-class ship at present would in a few hourh sink the whole British navy of 50 years ago and sustain no damage. The cost of the navy in 1837 ^^^ estimated at £4,500,000; at present it is probably four times that amount. I have little idea how many watched the review, but at night the railway station was packed; and as train after train pa.used an instant to receive its fare, it was easy to miss the right one. At length my turn came, and the train (perhaps a quarter mile long) was filled in about ten seconds after the doors were opened — people could not rush with greater vim if escaping from a fiery structure. I watched the muscular display as if viewing a circus, and in so doing to all appearance got left But no; for next instant the door right in front flew aside and half dozen men sprang out as if sped from a cannon. They had boarded the wrong train — hence their hurry. It is no sign of a gentle- man to rush, and just as the guard sounded his starting signal I stepped on board with as much deliberation as if that train I H ft ■ i ■1 ' r| RAMr.LF.S IN EUROPE ^^ Fnelish people, accustomed . . A (nr mv sole advantage. }^^f'V' ^ v^-^ ^f making a ^'^ t°c1n ^re^'masses, have ac^^f f^J^^^^^^ when there '^Tn n% when boarding a tram «/ fjf "^"^^^ ^e due the des- - j.:ii nftt^r r On the other nanu t .v-^ -;- . . . ^ ^entioncu "•"":, for three hours Yet in an express,on of ^'^^^^^^^^^ some years ago.''"' alter ^^_j _^,i,„j stock com Nothing short operfec^n ,„ hour in P'^- ^-^^ Tre the such speed— over JO Newcastle and "'f^^^ ^ter to S\o"lurrnd' e^w ere rs so CU^UTrone- »*' 'TaSkTwateran^have a-s^- te^^'hS barely room to sneeM ^^^^ '^'-^t^'route along the east ^ast is «a^ »t "" -m than m rCd"^rtu-""^3ho^^^^^^^^^^ --"^rre'°vSrrS^tn^'^^^^^ binders and pate. - ^ci «•! I o- w^ Armstrongs grca fr^Zl beyond conception. Sir vvm. ^^^^ce is near by to east— «. small, rocK) ^ y SCOTLAND 35 ) miles, as tried jsumed. Id stand ree brief, lere the jrefer to one can i- but to one bas asant nor nd wbere It than in Lincoln, xmong tbe man times, vcastle on jeople and rt of coal, -a quantity rreat manu- ' is near by y surpassec [g but coal :olor. Rain >quent\y add .r, and some nds are seen to vessels. Over a centur> past >a Dutch 40-gun ship was here lost with all her people; and in 1782 a ship from the new world met a like disaster. During a gale about 70 years ago, three bngs and a sloop were here dashed to pieces; and in 1838 a steamer of 300 tons struck one of the islands and broke in two — xhe bow remaining fast with nine per^ns on it. At day-break they were seen from Longstone lighthouse, about a mile away; and the keeper's daughter (22 years old) persuaded her father to attempt their rescue. The sea raged so wildly that the probability of both being lost was greater than of effecting their purpose. The attempt was made, and by favoring Providence all got back safely. The demure country maiden became at once noted; her picture was eagerly sought and London theaters offered large rewards if she would appear on the stage in boating costume. Bat she was not a girl that stamp, and did not long enjoy her honors; for consumption led her gently away in 1842 a month short of 27. She is said to have been comely, modest, retiring, with the heart of a hero, the soul of a martyr. In Bamboro cemetery her monument may be seen, inscribed — Grace Darling. Berwick on the Scottish side of the Tweed has about 15,000 people, a bridge of 1 5 arches connecting it with Tweedrijouth on the English side. We are now in the land of heather and for some distance the track keeps near the shore; then it passes through a hilly section, the train springing lightly over viaducts and arches. This is followed by a level country (Haddington), resemblii% the best parts of our island province. Farming is conducted on extensive scale and I noticed that steam power is mostly used for threshing. I arrived in Edinburg before dusk, and next day wjh a worn-out soldier as guide, began to encom- pass the city and view the sights. Fancy a valley running west and east, a rocky turret rising steeply from its bottoni say 350 feet, about 300 y^rds across at base and 200 at summit. This is castle rock, forming a kind of hub for the citv, its lower slopes clothed with sward and dotted with trees. On this turret stands the castle, and no building on earth has belter foundations. The summit consists of a higher and lower terrace, the whole being several acres in extent. The entrance is over a drawbridge and under an archway, showing grooves in which formerly slid massive portcullis and gates. Above this entrance is the old state prison; farther on the armory, then officers' quarters. On the highest terrace stand th old parliament hall and royal palace; here m a small room of irregular shape (nin2 feet the longest way), James L of England was born in 1566. The '''-m'tn- 36 RAMULES IN KUROPF. a crowrt room contains the ancient regalia of Scotland, such as crown, scepter, sword of state and' official rod of silver. They were long supposed to be lost till discovered in an iron-bound chest where they had lain no years since the date of union in 1^07. Part of the crown was worn by king Robert Bruce, Queen Mary and others; the sword ovas a gift from Pope Julius to James IV., along with a ' purple hat, flowered with gold.' 'Scots are justly proud of these symbols of ancient independ- ence and relics of a monarchy, commencing with the hero of Bannockburn.' The castle buildings are quite tall and imposing — now used as barracks and for military stores. By articles of union it is one of four Scottish fortresses in which a regiment of the line is always kept. On the east face is a battery from which a time-gun is fired every day at one p. m. Greenwich. Queen Margaret's chapel is near by, 10x16 feet in dimensions; but if small in size it is vast in centuries; for the pious queen of Malcolm Canmore worshipped here till her death 800 years ago. In front is Mons Meg, an old gun of uncertain parentage, but supposed to have been made in Belgium four centuries ago. J ' is built of iron staves, entirely covered with hoops of the same metal; is about a dozer feet long and 20 inches diameter at muzzle. In 1682, while firing a salute, one of the hoops gave way and it has since been silent." In 1684 it was taken to London and placed in the Tower, but was returned in 1820. A pile of stone shot such as formerly used, is alongside. On :; nne day the view of town, country and harbor from this ^rrace is delightful. The esplanade is a smooth piece of ground (three or four acres in extent) east of the castle and used for drill. Here stands a tall monument to officers and men of the 781'^ Highlanders who fell in the Indian mutiny of 1857; also a fine monument to Colonel Mackenzie of the 42nd, and one to Duke of" York. From the esplanade eastward to Holyrood (a short mile) the street has a continuous descent, and is known by Castle Hill, Lawn Market, High Street and Canongate. The first house to right was the Duke of (Gordon's town residence, his arms yet over the entrance. 'ITie Iiouse afterwards was made into separate dwellings and in one of them David Baird spent his early years. At 15 he joined the army and eight years later was taken prisoner in India and confined in the great fortress of Seringapatam. His mother being informed that the prisoners were chained together by twos, hastily exclaimed — ' Hech! pity the cheil oor Davie is tied til.' Davie had been a daring, active SCOTLAND 37 h as Ihey >ound union Bruce, Julius gold.' epend- lero of iposing ides of ment of n which Queen 5; but if ^ueen of ears ago. tage, but ago. ^^ the same tmeter at ops gave taken to 1820. ^ On '- nne tirrace is e or four -ere stands [ighlanders anument to . of York, mile) the Castle Hill, it house to is antis yet made into d spent his irs later was I fortress of he prisoners >Hechl pity iaring, active youth and his mother thought his companion would have uneasy time of it. At the end of four years he got out, and on May 4, 1799, he commanded the storming party which captured the fort. For this distinguished service he was presented with the sword of Tipoo Sahib, and on returning to Britain was knighted as Sir David Baird, hero of Seringapatam. Several noted buildings are in this section — the general assembly hall, free church hall, free church college, bank of Scotland and royal exchange. We are now in Lawn Market, and houses associated with fame and talent are on every side. David Hume, Dr. Johnson, Lady Stair and Robert Burns lived for some time in this section. A house now used for mechanics' library belonged to Bailie MacMoran, a man of substance in his day — for we find him entertaining queens and princes. The Bailie was shot by a college lad in 1598 while attempting to restore order among refractory scholars; but the boy's father had influence enough with the bench to shield him from harm—*'; showing how personal friendship interfered with justice in those early times. The following will also show the crude ideas of justice even among those who swung the balance : On a certain occasion the impartiality of Cromwell's rule in Scotland being praised before an occupant of the bench, he tartly replied — 'Deil thank him for't : he had neither kith nor kin in the contra.' We are now at St. Giles, which next to the citadel is the most noted erection. The present building dates from the 1 4th century, is 200 feet long, with a crown-shaped spire 160 feet in height. Long ago the interior had been changed from its original form, and some years before his death William Chambers, pub- lisher, undertook (mostly at his own expense) to restore it. The work cost £30,000, but the generous donor passed from earth three days before its opening on May 23, 1883. In the vestibule are marble monuments to officers and men of the 72nd, 78th and ojrd regiments who fell at the Indian mutiny; and high up in ri*'^ nave are old flags taken by Scottish troops in foreign lands. ae walls of St. Giles echoed to the voice of Knox; and it was here in 1637 that Jenny Geddes flung her stool at the Dean's head, on attempting to read the litany. A bust in bronze of Dean Stanley (the work of a Miss Grant) has lately been placed near the royal pew. The cemetery belonging to St. Giles was long ago covered by parliament square, the body of John Knox being the last interment. A slab in the pavement, with the initials J. K. is supposed to be over the spot — but the-'^ is no certainty. The site of old tolbooth or » Heart of Midlothian ' is J i •,'p m i, I' s« iif I 38 RAMBLES IN EUROPE preserved by the outline of a heart in the pavement near the church. The city cross stands a few yards to eastward, where in old times proclamations were made and executions took place. Marquis ot Montrose, Marquis of Argyle, Sir Wm. Kirkaldy, with other nobles and chiets were here summoned to the land of spirits. The cross had been removed in 1756, but was of late restored. Near St. Giles are the parliament buildings, silent since the union m 1707. The hall is 120x50 feet, and has a magnificent ceiling of carved pendants, a good deal like the great hall at Hampton Court. It contain? statues and pictures of Scottish divines, warriors and statesmen; and a rose window in the south end is among the finest I ever witnessed. The advocates' library, in part of the building, contains 15,000 volumes, besides manuscripts of rare value. Among the latter are copies of the * League and Covenant,' some of the signatures written with blood. On parliament square is a statue in lead of Charles II., erected in 1685. It is said the original purpose was to put up a statue of Cromwell, the model of which had been prepared; but when the restoration took place, the magistrates with con- venient pliancy, substituted ' the merry monarch ' instead. A ful- some inscription on the pedestal shows how much reliance can be placed on rock eulogy. Tron church is a little farther east, so called from a wooden trone or weighing beam that formerly stood near. To this in old times (it is said) the ears of false witnesses were nailed as warning to others. Along High Street the house in which Allan Ramsay had his bookstore stands yet in good condition. At the entrance of a certain close the head of a youth is carved on the keystone, with this inscription — ' Heave awa chaps : I'm no deid yet.' Tho we a'"e dealing with ancient things this matter is of late occurrence. On a Sabbath morning in 1861 an old tenement that stood here collapsed without excuse or warning, killing 35 persons. A few were got out alive, and while digging operations went on, a voice from the tumulus shouted cheerfully the words given above. The workmen increased their efforts and soon had the youth at liberty without scaith or scaur. On erecting a new building the affair was commemorated as stated above. The house of' Bluidy MacKenzie' (advocate in reign of Charles II.) stands in this section, and not far off stood that of the no-less-infamous cardinal Beaton. They were bloody men who well performed the work of their master. Farther along is the house in which John Knox lived from 1560 till his death in 1572, in his 67th "t^i r- / m \m< * SCOTLAND 39 'if I nee the rniftcent 'hall at Scottish he south ivocates' ;, besides ;s of the tten with larles ll-> o put up prepared; with con- ,d. Aful- feliance can Lcr east, so ,t formerly irs of false ay had his ranee of a I keystone, J deid yet.' r is of late tenement killing 35 . operations y the words nd soon had ;cting a new The house ;s II.) stands ess-infamous 11 performed use in which in his 67th year. It is a four-story houie in good condition, and has these words engraven above the door — < Lufe God abuf all and ye nychtbour as yiself.' In front is a paltry effigy, supposed to represent the reformer. 1 : ^ ,; . We are now in Canongate and on our right stands the house of Regent Moray, erected in 1630, shortly after which it became the headquarters of Cromwell. On May 25, 1650, the rtiarriage of Lord Lorn and daughter of Earl Moray todlc place here, and on the same day Marquis of Montrose was lead past for execu- tion. It is said that all stood on the balcony to witness their old enemy's misfortune, little thinking the bridegroom (as Marquis of Argyle) would perish on the same spot eleven years after. The house is in excellent repair and is now used as training school for teachers. From two to three centuries ago this street was the west end, the fashionable section and con- tained the cream and sugar of the times. Here dwelt honor, wealth and talent — a castle at one end, a royal palace at the other. But the garment in which a peer rubbed against kings often ends its days on a beggar; and houses along this street in which nobles dwelt have been for generations homes of poverty and filth. The house where dwelt SmoUet and his sister (Mrs. Telfer) is yet upright, and in the next Burns joined a masonic lodge. Not far off lived Lord Monboddo and his lovely daughter whose early death the Scottish bard bewailed in song. Along here is Canongate graveyard where repos 4J m of grassmarket. It is a handsome pile, i6o feet square, with central court, and completed in 1660, in time for Cromwell to use it for his troops. Gv-orge Heriot was jeweler to James VI., amassed a fortune and left ^£23,600 to erect this splendid struc- ture. Not far off is the new infirmary, an immense pile that cost about two million dollars. Grayfriars' church is near at hand, built in 161 2. In it the national covenant was signed in 1638, after Alexander Henderson had preached. The churchyard formerly belonged to a convent, burnt by the English in 1547. It was never restored and in 1566 the ground was used as ceme- tery for Grayfriars, George Buchanan, who died in 1582, being the first interment of note. Here are also planted the remains of Robertson, Blair, Ramsay, Heiry McKenzie, Dr. M'Cric, Patrick Tytler and * Bluidy McKenzie.' The martyrs' monument is however its chief object, its inscription running thus — ' From May 27, i66i, when the noble Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to February 17, 1688, that Mr. James Renwick suffered, were one way or another murdered and destroyed for the same cause about 18,000, of whom were executed at Edinburg about 100 noblemen, ministers and others, noble nurtyrs for Christ. Most of them lie here.' About 1200 covenanters taken at Bothwell bridge were lodged in this cemetery nearly five months without shelter and no food except four ounces of bread, and a mouthful of water daily. If any stirred at night he was shot by the guards. The few who survived were shipped to Barbadoes as slaves; but the vessel was wrecked on the Orkneys, and a brutish captain not allowing them to swim ashore, all but 42 perished. This was the way one section of the Christian church showed its love towards another. About 200 yards east of Grayfriars stands the university, with its faculties of art, theology, law and medicinej its 45 chairs and 3000 students. The museum of science and art is alongside, covering an area of 400x200 feet and 90 feet in height. The objects are ranged on principles of science, and the collection tho not large is highly instructive. In the department of natural history is suspended from the roof the skeleton of a whale over 80 feet long, supposed to be the largest ever mounted for in- spection. It was found in the frith by Dunbar fishermen in 1809, and liold to Dr. Knox of the university. Among the larger curiosities is a stalagmite eleven feet long and 24 inches diameter, sawn from the floor of a cave in Bermuda in 181 9 by Admiral Sir David Milne. His son (a mere lad) accompanied him and watched proceedings. In 1863 this boy (as admiral I' i' : 42 RAMBLBB IN EUROPE •« , w^C^ i I f it Milne) visited the cave and found that on the stump several knobs had formed in solid contents about five inches. In 1873, the commander of H. M. S. 'Challenger' had the stump sawn off and carried home; but owing to careless handling the knobs were almost enti/ely rubbed away. The stalagmite entire contains nearly 50 cubic feet, and some have calculated that if it took 44 years to produce five inches, about 760,000 years would be required for the whole business. But this reasoning is superficial, as in early ages the rate of growth was no doubt many times more rapid than the present. Another object of rare interest is a caste of an iron pillar, erected at Delhi 320 B. C. The total length is 50 feet (28 feet in the ground and 22 above); diameter 18 inches, slightly tapering and about half * dozen feet of the top ornamented. The weight is estimated at 20 tons — a wonderful work at that early period. Potter Row leads south from the university and in a house near by, Thomas Campbell composed ' The pleasures of hope.' Here at the house of Miss Nimmo, Robert Burns met Mrs. Maclehose, between whoi.i and himself so much free correspond- ^ence passed in after time. Locally the street is called Patara, and it is related that a beadle once for a dram, offered to prove that Paul had been in the city. The matter settled, the beadle turned to Acts 2 1 st and read — ' We came into Cos and thence to Patara.* The proof was abundant and he got the whiskey. This recalls an incident that happened about a quarter century ago, not 20 miles from where I am writing. The principal actor was from the land o'cakes, and tho past three score and ten, retained his old love for whiskey, Stifi" joints, rheumatic pains were all forgotten; a taste of barley-bree made him feel lively as a callan. Late one afternoon he was toddling home, lordly drunk, supremely hapj^y. In crossing a fence he fell in such a way as to be completely helpless; but ere long a gentle snore declared his safe condition. Discovered before night, he was ' taken home, put to bed and next day was fresh as an oyster. But people will talk— the story got afloat and soon reached the parson. Before many days he and his chief elder (two excellent men) paid the toper a visit. There was wide room for accu- sation and the poor man got a terrible dressing. Apparently crushed in spirit, he sat with bowed head, a picture of sincere repentence. Hearing the close of his review, the preacher spoke somewhat as follows — ' Remember my friend that none of us lives to himself — society demands from us a good example. The apostle Paul declared himself ready even to abstain from meat, 1* SCOTLAND 43 I house f hope.' let Mrs. respond- l Patara, Lo prove [e beadle ;hence to whiskey, century pal actor and ten, itic pains I lively as ne, lordly in such a ntle snore It, he was an oyster, cached the o excellent for accu- Apparently of sincere icher spoke none of us mple. The from meat, if by so doing ' At mention of Paul, Davie looked suddenly up and in his most vigorous Doric interrupted the speaker with — ♦ Dod, Paul himself was verra gled when he came in sight of three taverns near Rome; and gin he offered to abstain frae meat, he took gude care to say naething aboot abstainin frae whuskey.' This unexpected retort started minister and elder as if a stone had dropped from the chimney — they stared at each other speechless. The situation was ludicrous, but they wer^ in no mood for laughter; and expressing abhorrence at wresting scripture, the two departed. Davie was after all a leal honest St:ot and no bad member of the community. The spree in question was probably his last and not many years after, he crossed the troubled sea and was laid to sleep with his people. The new town lies to north of the old, separated by a deep valley. It is of recent date — little of it being over a century. The streets are wide, and frequently interrupted by a ' place,' ' square,' ' crescent ' or * circus.' In the south-east rises Calton hill some 250 feet above the valley, with Nelson's monument (over 100 feet high) on one of its summits. A gilt ball on its flagstaff drops at one p. m. and fires (by connecting wire) a gun on castle terrace. There are also monuments to Dugald Stewart and John Playfair, both noted professors. The observatory is a fine Grecian pile, with moveable dome in which the man in charge makes observation-.^ The national monument occupies a central position, erected 70 years ago to commemorate the heroic deeas of Scottish arms at Waterloo. It was intended to be a copy of the Parthenon at Athens; but the funds gave out in erecting a dozen columns with architrave, at cost of $80,000. To south east of the hill stands Burns' monument, inside of which are interesting relics of the bard. Calton is one of three points commanding an excellent view of the city. From h Princess street runs directly west for nearly a mile and few thorofares rival it in attractions. The new postoffice stands on the left, a magnificent building in Italian style, costing over half a million dollars. Opposite is the registry, a square of 200 feet enclosing a court, surmounted by a massive dome and contain- ing a fireproof room for safe keeping. A fine equestrian statue of Wellington stands in front. Looking west, the right is flanked by a line of many-storied hotels not surpassed in London or Paris; while on the left stands a row of monuments to such men as the city delights to honor. Scott's is one of the finest testi- monials in the world to individual merit; next follow statues of Wilson, Ramsay, Simpson, Black and Livingstone, a man who 1 I .-■i*.*'-*: 44 RAMBLES IN EUROPE * ■ K" ' ^■ i^H'''. tii "I^Bfi "- ' , «■ Mi^^v ■■ ff?'-' W^flU: ; If^,; Ibl^lH ■ rr ^ iHB i If ;( mp -'' . stood above them all for intrinsic greatness. Scott's is a Gothic spire 200 feet in height, covering a square of 40 feet and costing $80,000. In the central arch at bottom is a marble statue of the great literateur. The monument was built in 1844 from designs by a young self-taught architect of great promise named Kemp. He was drowned in a canal before the work was finished. Right across the valley is Castle hill, an imposing object apart from its grand historic connexions. The distance between it and Prince street is about 300 yards, and in the valley between are Princess street gardens — an array of floral beauty, lawns, paths and arbors unsurpassed by the famous Champs Elysees in Paris. Nearly opposite Castle hill is ' the mound,' which is simply an earth barrier across the valley, forming a bridge to west of two others. From 1781 to 1830 the spot was a dumping place for the new town and is computed to contain two million cartloads. It is 800 feet long, 300 feet wide at the bottom, and about 100 feet in the deepest part. The railroad track tunnels through it, and to all intents it appears as much a natural formation as Calton hill or Castle rock. It divides the gardens into east and west, and on it are built the antiquarian museum and. art gallery. Among interesting objects in the former are: the maiden (a Scotttsh guillotine), a pulpit used by John Knox, cutty stool of Jenny Geddes, jougs (a kind of iron collar for punishing scolds), stool of repentance, original copies of the ' league and covenant,' tattered banner used by covenanters at Bothwell bridge, blue ribbon worn by ' the pretender,* and ring given him by Flora MacDonald. Dean bridge is a handsome structure, crossing the water of Leith 1 1 o feet above it, and over half a mile north-west of the castle. Donaldson hospi«^al (a mile west of the castle) is a hand- some pile of vast dimensions, that cost over half million dollars. The endowment was left in 1 830 by James Donaldson, an Edin- burg printer, for educating 300 poor boys and girls of the city. It is mildly whispered the Queen wanted it for a palace instead of Holy rood; but there was no flaw in the parchment and the heritors, however reluctant, had to decline the transfer. Seeing that her majesty is not badly housed I was not shocked by having this great pile occupied by troops of urchins instead of by servants and court minions. '• Few towns of its population and square feet are so well pro- vided with churches as this Attic metropolis of the north. The Free church has 41 places of worship, the Established 35, the U. P. 25, the Episcopal body 14, besides a large number belong- sc1 % :i '.' ? ; :^ ' I' 52 KAMDLES IN EUROPE iXTfrna-'r^gcr'- The sceneryj^. f^^^ \,tTyrc. or B»den One gorge has P"P"="" j by some grand con f!rfs amrt, to all appearance a rent catisea y ;^„„,„y w„h lu^ton A »hort distance *«< °f P,X plaids and tartans. . iTpeople and n«n«fart"«s of shaw'^ J„i„g ,, i„e, the Passing through its 1'""<=;P„^, '""Vk On inquiry I learned ^dewalk becatne crowded "f P'j;„i„g ,„ breakfast. Alva LTyweremillhandMrjoo of h=mj0^^8„,, manufactures o. U Uther small I'lf^J't"™ and cascade beh.nd it. as fulcrum. »" '»° '^h. „hole French lines were attacked^ rhen-^ic^'eg^n^K-f^^^^^^^ -t r^rr^ooS- t,::t:ight 'r -i:^-- - -^^^^^^^^^ K^irstd,a".'»>VUTHis r'm^^nfwLe embalmed wounded and dted .'" J "'tnTuUil^dy church a m>te <", ^° ai^bi^X.-'^^'^^^^^^^^^ b^^vrfpi^nrrjij^-L^iri^e.^^^^^^ rTpresenting the gfn"^';*"'Krthe following inscnpUon g Ralph Abercromby.K.. Hm ^. j^^ having ^^irtnounted w.tn ducting h»!. farther P ^^^ ^ "*" „i Lt remai»vK\ in the t»^d. Attack of chcM^en ■«" mortal wound, out re"'* Virave troops under his command, until me) SCdLANn 53 itte a : was ray in walk rol or a few d con- y with artans. • le, the learned Alva [ures of ras bom ' at lifted \ d career mand to subdue Lain must . e secured Aboukir, attacked, d forward , (then a :cordingly 1 mortally embalmed, lile or two less Aber- fovernment cathedral, e arms of a ription: ' ' ■General Sir ition directed consumBiate local difficul- j successfully Tsary for con- e, a desperate A in the tiefd. g brave troops and important victory obtained on that uieiaurable day. The former actions of a life spent in the service of his country, and thus gloriously terminated, were distinguished by the same military skill, and by the same zeal for the public service, particularly during the campaigns of the Netherlands, in 1793 and '94; in the West Indies in 1796 and '97; and in Holland in 1799; in the last of which, the distinguished (rallantry and ability with which he effected his landing on the Dutch Coast, established his positions in the face of a powerful enemy, and secured the command of the principal fort and arsenal of the Dutch Republic, were acknowledged and honored by the thanks of both Houses of Parliament. Sir Ralph Abercromby expired on board the 'Foudroyant,' the 28th of March, 1801, in his 66th year. A short distance from Menstrie is Myreton farmhouse, where in 1804 the celebrated traveller Mungo Park, bade aviieu to his connexions when setting out on his last expedition to Africa. Coming back to Queensferry, lei us follow the river by its south side, and note the places of interest. Passing Hopetown and Abercorn we come to Blackness castle on a rocky penin- sula far out in the river. It was a stronghold of the Douglas and first shows up in 1443; afterwards a state prison and now a powder magazine. Lord Ochiltree was confined in it 20 years, and John We'sh (son-in-law of Knox) was imprisoned in a dungeon below water level for the crime of convening a church assembly. He was in 1606 banished from Britain, and being in poor health, it is related that his wife appeared before James VI., to ask that her husband be given his native air, being the only chance for recovery. The king forgetting his usual dignity, replied — ' Give him the devil.' ' Give that to your courtiers ' was the quick response. About three miles from the river stands Linlithgow, in the 1 2th century a royal borough, but now a village of some 4000 people. Here in 1570 the good regent Murray was shot dead by an assassin named Hamilton, to appease some private grudge. Linlithgow palace stands on margin of a lake, was built in the 14th century, covers an acre of ground and was the finest in Scotland. James V. and his unfortunate daughter were born here, and the place was a favorite residence of Scottish kings. In 1756 the palace was burnt, ruins it has an appearance of massive grandeur, miles from the river and half dozen farther west) some 12,000 people and the scene of two battles — one in 1298 between Edward I. and the Scots; the latter between the royal troops and deluded followers of the pretender. Near Falkirk is the widely-known Carron iron-works; and not far off the village of Larbert where the railway lines from Edinburg and Glasgow come together. In this neighborhood a battle took place in 1488 between James III. and his refractory lords, his own son and even in Falkirk (four is a town of 11 fi ; ■« iMj , RMHH1.KR m tDRO''" „ftcvw<.rJ» )».«.« IV.) >f "■« '"'l^a M.V» iiWc Ok- other,. A ;:,„,«« '»"'«« ,7"\.l™^,e"ht.i, threw the king .nd -^^ . . ^-^ T f^ha^i;. .»r.t— rv or .he even, «a, held .n ?:;i^?or.^rr^:e.''vw.ue..or^^^^^^^^^^ ,o his native ><'""">,;.^ ,, ,;,^„„ gr.-nnd to right f '''5 ?™"';^^^^ Sliriing is on n »'<^'^1''.> .,*„., rrf ,o miles north of ».la»go*- F.S " ^ ntiles west of Kdm »rg arjd io^ ^^„^^ ,,,.„vel, rhe hill terminates V-ti:^t;rOray.a.^ SCOTI.ANW'* $9 I village on June svone in e day in ts liU an of l^uni Hums on write the iotic song xc crooked fdlasgow. ; sea-level, own. 'l'^^ ftve or six ing capital. from half- Doric word ised as bar- and Mary's m (where m 5f old curios taken awa; ormerly Wepv ar destroyed. :h hangs the ed for recrea- cs are along \)e used for ,lle rock is a is spoken as . in 1 407 ^f^^'' in it when 13 iing is 200x52 more pride than money and ene^raved his arms feci, and a partition ('ividcs it into two |>arts in which con' grcgations simuhaneounly worship. In the adjoinii^ yard aro monument.s three renturien old, the inscnptionH and carvings being moHtly of a ludicrous cast. A monument records the death of Margaret MacLachlan and Agnes Wilson (aged 18), who on May 1 1, 16H5 were bound to a stake in Wigtun hay and allowed to perish by the incoming tid«. The marble was cait at Rome and is under glass cover. A statue of Khenezer Krskine is near by. The *Halem rock' is a [)yrami(l about 30 feet high on which arc recorded leading ttible truths, symliolic designs and other figures. There are monuments to Melville, Henderson and Knox, whose names arc embalmed in the history of their country. Over the entrance of the city hall is a giant stat«ie of the patriot Wallace; and' a heroic statue of Robert Bruce was. placed on castle esplanade in 1877. Scotsmen are said to be void of fun, but they arc not without humor. It appears that in the long ago some person with erected a mansion on Maker street unduly prominent; but not long after the place was owned by the highest bidder. A humorist erecting a house on the opposite side, had the following cut in stone where most convenient to notice : — ' Heir I forbear my name or armcs to fix (.east I or myne should seiie these stanes and stickes.' On a link of the Forth close to Stirling stood Cambuskenneth abl>ey, founded by David I. in 1147 and occupied by Augusitiae canons. It was pillaged by Edward I. and destroyed 250 years later — the tower (70 feet high) being the only part standing. The abbey was famous in its day and was u.sed for parliament meetings. James III. and his queen were interred near the altar, and less than 30 years ago the remains were found, reinterred and a fine tomb erected. Old Stirling bridge dates back 500 years and is still in working condition. In 208, Agricola owned a bridge about a mile up river; this was replaced by Kildean bridge, every vestige of which has long since departed. Here in 1297, a sanguinary tight took place between the troops of Edward I. and Wallace — the former having to run. In history the engagement is known as ' battle of Stirling bridge.' Vessels of 100 tons can reach Stirling, if short enough to get past the turnings; but the present stream is only the channel of what formerly was an inland arm miles in width. There jfceras to l)e abundant proof of this, as not far from Stirling was found (in 1819) the bones of a whale 70 feet long. 22 (eet above 5* K^MW.tS . ^^^^^^'^^^ ''^nd mar'n^^HdlH^rcTuite c^^^^^^^ „, 3,,o people, Mru\oe ot Allan »» » '". ■' ,., miles fanner is i'»' and seven tincK- movintam scenery « r hl^ tl, svlperscded by '^^^fgj^^o left. Ihc -»"y ^\ '"'S"§e,c ndtg a bill, ' Brig "f ,"f o^rmenUoned by 1«:1, Mhry, ^fj°'^^ ^^.rfne are jmt one ""'^ H'f^*^„oded 'K «™r creation bave been more deluged wan 1 ^^^^ _^^ miles in "T*"„,h ,he pen that would allow m pleasantly •■"P:tN"^orrdtatt«- A nice smooth roa^wnds^P^ r tbi ^r^ded ,P- -"re'S^^' ^^ ^dS^nd on the vision. let me ^^ ^^g^eonc ^o"^" ^^^^,, srotfANh I' ii iple, ane, I the nded iniiy. near ad of le was forces castle \ high » mUes e usual west, erred to ;n CoU- crossing ve milc'* ; scenery Vhree or nl in the years for is on the led. I'^e tioned by 1 the wild, e view of lakes is to rt and that a wooded ,pearing at pine, while -ew squaJ^c ,iinted des- uaduce the i pleasantly lake bursts , enjoyment ,-^:„«c and beauty of CAtmel ftre tame to this;' but a turn of the weather tnp <'hangeH his song itito a doieftll whine about ' hetiMly drip)iing trees, mist and t(»rrents.' Loch Katrine is eight miles Irmg an«i 360 fee^ above sea level. Its shores are extremely imeven< l)eing varied with deep bays and sharp projections. It is Hanked by hillr* on both sides, mottled with birch and heather, Lovely walks extend along the margin, and higher up in placeB^ Near its east end is Helen's isle, a wooded craggy spot and the central scene in Scott's • Lady of the lake.' i'he district to north is named Strathgartney, after whit h no doubt the late K. H. Stewart, Ksq., < ailed his estate in this province. A small swift steamer is at a rustic landing, above which steeply rises shaggy hills, ( lothed with birch of small stature. I do not attempt to describe the enjoyment of a sail on this loch when the pleasure is not marred by some flaw in the weather. From the west end a road leads to loch Lomond, five or six miles off, and on the way, lock Katrine is viewed to best advantage* Along here may ne seen the ruins of a fort, built in 1713 to »)verawe the MacGregors, Cleneral Wolfe being for sometime in comnund. From the hill above Inversnaid the view is among the finest in Scotland. The lake is right below, and beyond lies CilensU" y, the MatFarlane country, with mountains and vales like a tremendous stackyard. A hotel stands at the shore, and a few yards off a stream rushing madly down grade, makes a 30-foot leap into the water. !t was at Inversnaid Wordsworth saw the Highland girl that so badly disturbed his rest and v hose beauty he records in song. Lomond is cousidercd the chief of British lakes, is 21 miles long, and for 13 of these less than a mile in width. ITie south end is six wide and closely planted with islands from three miles in circuit to mere dots with a pigmy tree or bunch of heather. Some are deer parks, some are cemeteries that contain the ashes of men who fought and flourished centuries in the past. Along the lake margin are hotels, shooting-lodges and villas, cradled among trees and overtopped by mountains, it is overhung by a dozen heights from 2000 to 3000 feet — fkmlomed rising 3190 above sea-level. Its shores present opposite extremes of outlook — in the north wild and savage, while the tiny archi- pelago to south recalls the isles of the blest in the vision of Mirza. We now return to Callender and take train for Oban, distance about 80 miles. Two miles bring us to the famous pass of Leny, a narrow detile between wooded hills and the steep rocky sides of Benledi. For the next five miles the train skirts the o li I :. 1 ; i : I 3» KAMHIHS l«'.V.UR»>»'K omc l-y 11 f«» ''"*" '""", 1, li, llie l.rafH of IUil.iuHl.kr. »al rt toll. V.-il, .«."'- »|. : '"' . s V s lomKTly ilH. Ma.._<.rej»» ;'""* we cairn not far of *°"'J,'^' f,U „f the CampUUs. A h"g .^ ambush, when re«^^,.^ where he was sUin 'V •* mansion was built ny ward not less than »°° ^^;i"\^e and was garrisoned by roya^ , 5,ooc troops, and late * „^.hich the dan. «"- .^i, '^stfe tr ^ — - '^ ''" ^fTo^Ne s:n' ufis stone was fnsc*;t.„n_'To the -^^^^^ TWe mon"--;.!::,":; erected by *' Lom ^r^n^^^ ^^^ ,^< 'Teftthnd but the what plain, has the me jj„,„pian5 are now l«Vbe";V.„k ,hat of British seaman. The ura v ^^^^ „„st ""^ *''',^ ■ rural walks nave v ^e did 1 nna uu a« soliciting fare ."^d^n^^P^ ^^^^ .^ ^^,^ p„,Uet aty. more ^gressive, iouq * fl SCOT LAM D 6l ind ent of luke nder spot from Jolin Tay; main» . and west- a pro- royal one of le took head of he Mc-i lefeaied. vxXh this one was if 9ome- tt bravest I, but the link that :e leaving distance, -s of hill ain brings .ighlands.' rho only a es, pa^a^^ a square wo papers, to number and recog- leer at high travel is to ed together. leople, while Watermen .\ drummers It city. The harbor is perfectly secure, and generally crowded with iteels of every rig, size and color. Excursion steamers leave at 6, 8, 9 and 10, returning later in the day like cows from pasture. Delightful villas, embowered in wood, recline on sunny braes along the shore, with everlasting ramparts of granite behind them. Professor Blackie has here a sylvan retreat which (I was told) he declines to inhabit since an iron hoof has defiled the town. At Oban I became acquainted with Dr. MacKelvies a genial, large-hearted Scot who occupies a front place in his pro- fession. He is full cousin to the late esteemed and lamented Dr. Robert MacKelvie, so well known in this county. At entrance to Oban harbor stands Dunolly castle, an ivy« clad turret on a precipitous rock, a former stronghold of the MacDougalls. Near by, a huge rock pillar rises 30 or 40 feet, called ' the dog-stone,' from a tradition that to it Fingal was accustomed to fasten his famous dog Bran. Another version (equally truthful) says that when Lord of the isles came to visit Dunolly, his dogs were made fast to this i)illar. On a wooded promontory- three miles off stands the ruin of Dunslaffnage castle. Its origin is unknown, but tradition makes it a residence of Dalriadic kings prior to Scone, a few miles from Perth. It shows up in history about 600 years ago, passed to the Camp- bells in 1436, and at the rebellions of 1715 and '45 was occupied by government troops. It is now a roofless pile; walls 60 feet high, 1 1 thick with corner towers on which are brass cannon from the Spanish armada. The interior is 80 feet square, and a recess in the wall formerly contained the lia fail or ' stone of destiny,' previous to its removal to Scone in 850. In 1296, when Edward I. became master of Perth, he sat on this rock cushion when assuming the crown. Next year he had it removed to Westminster abbey, where it has since formed a kind of underpinning to the coronation chair. In 1657 it was carried across the street to Westminster hall, so that Cromwell might receive its occult virtues when established protector of the realm. 3 ' \>M,i The island ot Mull lies about half dozen milefi west 6f OblA, and tho only 25x30 miles, its coast-line measures 300. Its shores are wild and rugged, with caves, cliffs and arches; while the interior presents grand scenery of mountain, dark raviwe, clear lake and rural valley. Of over a dozen heights Ben More is king, with an elevation of 3170 feet. The island is best cal- culated for gracing, and in about 50 years the inhabitants diminished from 12,000 to probably half that figure. Tober- It f^HfU^ 6(2' RAMBLES IN EUROPE mory with about 2000, is the principal village, lying at north- east of the island. It has three churches, three banks, daily mail and several hotels. The surrounding scenery is quite fine, a splendid cascade being among the attractions. The harbor is protected on every side and often disturbed by keels of all tonnage. In 1588 the 'Florida' (flagship of the armada) was blown up here by MacLean of Duart. The sound of Mull (26 miles long and two in width) separates that island from Morven to north, with castle ruins frequent on its high, steep ramparts. Duart castle on a rocky spur opposite Oban, with walls a dozen feet thick, is quite entire tlio roofless. It belonged to the MacLeans, a valient, warlike clan who of old ruled the island. Artorinish castle on the Morven side was headquarters of Lord of the isles when driving things in full feather. Heie in 1461 he convened a parliament of vassals, and as independent prince sent his cousins Ronald and Duncan to treat with Edward IV. for the- conquest of Scotland. That however was the last legislative assembly, and in a few years the power if not the title became extinct. Aros castle, on the Mull side, was another stronghold of the same gentry. Ulva in a wide bay to west, was formerly occupied by the McQuarries after being driven out of Mull by the MacLeans. It rises a thousand feet in places, and has ba.saltic cliffs scarcely inferior to Giant's causeway. In Ulva Dr. Johnson spent a night in 1773, and next day was ferried to Inchkenneth where he was royally entertained by Sir Allan MacLean and his daughters. Samuel greatly wondered at the learning and accomplishments of these ladies, and at the ancestral dignity shown in this far- away quarter. His feelings could only be expressed in choicest I^atin verse. One mile from the extreme west of Mull lies the famed lona, three miles long, with about 2000 acres of surface. Its fame is due to Columba, who in 563, came over from Ireland with twelve apostles. Originally from Donegal, tradition says that, like Moses, he refused a crown for the higher oflice of preacher. At death his remains were taken to Kells and laid between those of Saints Bridget and Patrick. For 300 years lona continued superior to all Scottish monasteries; bui in the ninth century Norse pirates killed the monks, robbed and burnt their dwellings. Worse than all, the library (a literary treasiire) was burnt or carried off" by the robbers. From its supposed sanctity lona becarrie a burying-place for kings and lords from many countries. Forty Scottish kings, one French, two Irish and two Norwegian SCOTLAND ^J kings found rest there. The present ruins are thought to date from the 1 2th century and were built several hundred years after the time of Columba and his people. Their primative structures were undoubtedly of wood, not a trace of which remained long before the present ones were erected. The cathedral is 160x64 feet, with a square tower 60 feet in height. Except being roofless it is in good repair and looks firm enough to stand for centuries. The sculptures are 'ide and grotesque; one represents an angel weighing a man's good and bad deeds, the devil pressing down the scale of ill actions. The chapel and nunnery (60x22 feet) are not in as good condition. Of 360 crosses that stood on the island 350 years ago, only two are now in position — MacLean's II feet high and Martin's 14 feet high, 18 inches wide, 6 thick and covered with runic inscriptions. Of MacKinnon's cross, only part remains, with Latin inscriprion of date 1490; St. John's cross is prostrate and broken. Fifty or 60 sculptured slabs are yet to be seen marking the graves of kings, chiefs and abbots. Of 40 Scottish kings, 16 were MacAlpin, the most famous being Kenneth, first king of Scotland. MacBeth is said to have been the last interred at lona. The tomb of one Lord of the isles can be made out — that of Angus Og who fought with Bruce at Bannockburn. The MacLeans are in great number, the inscribed slabs indicating the importance and wealth of that clan. MacLeod of MacLeod has a fine slab, and a MacQuarrie rests among the mighty dead. Staffa is six miles north of lona and is about a mile in circuit, rising 120 feet at highest point. Like Giant's causeway and several of the western isles, Staffa is formed of basalt, a black igneous rock standing in six-sided pillars, mostly one to two feet in thickness. Some half dozen caves are round the isle, but that known as Fingal's is by far the most noted. It opens towards the south, runs in 220 feet, is 60 feet high, 40 wide and has 25 feet depth of water. On one side the pillars are 18 feet long and 36 on the other. A steamer calls daily in summer, but landing can only be effected in choic<^ weather. The island suiface is somewhat uneven and its herbuge pastures a few sheep. During storms the romping and rioting of ocean billows among the caves is simply frightful. ,, A trip from Oban to Inverness (over 90 miles) by the Cale- donia canal must not be omitted. It runs through a valley from Fort William to Inverness, is over 60 miles long and straight as a furrow. In this valley are three lakes and the actual cana' (23 miles long) joins these together. Loch Ness, the largest, is *4 f ' ri !■ -•i;v; M t4 RAMBLES IN EUROPE I I $ I miles I'^ng, 900 feet deep and never freezes. The other two are four and ten miles long, and all three are narrow. A first survey was made by James Watts, work began 30 years later, and in 1822 the canal was open for traliftc. It is 120 feet wide at top, 50 at bottom, 17 feet in depth, has 28 locks and cost over $6,000,000. Besidss the danger of roiniding Cape Wrath, 250 miles are saved by this inland passage. The scenery along the canal and lakes, tho not wild, is highly attractive. Mountain ramparts extend along each side, green with young trees and every one of them planted., The cost I was told, is $io an acre; and parties^ to whom I spoke appeared incredulous when told that in Canada, trees spring up wherever land remains fallow. Glens, gorges and lateral valleys are frequent, with cascades and torrents rushing into the lakes. In some parts the hillsides are cultured, and haynjaking being in progress, men und women cowld be seen rushing out at the approach of a shower. This great valley is a grand picture gallery, with canvas each side more aivcient than works of "he oldest masters. Fort William (30 miles from Oban) was built by general Monk in Cromwell's time and had accommodation for 200 troops. Except in name it is no longer a fort, but a village of 2600, with hotels, banks and churches. Ben Nevis (4406 feet high) is near, and tourists who wish to ascend step ashore at Fort William. The ascent is not easy and after the top is reached one has seldom the good fortime to see anything but clouds and mist. About a mile from Fort William is Inver- loychy castle, a grand old niin said to have been at one time a royal palace. Near by in 1 646 a sanguinary conflict took ptace between Montrose and Argyle, the latter suffering defeat with a loss of 1500 men. Inverlochy house (home of the warlike Camerons) is in this section; and at entrance of loch Eil stands a monument to Col. Cameron who fell at Quatre Bras at the bead of his 92nd Highlanders, two days before a greater battle. To CrtSt is Lochaber and the ' parallel roads ' of Glenroy are worthy of a visit. These are seemingly the margin of former lakes and can be traced round the valley. The lowest is abmit 9^0 feet above sea-level, the other two at gre^^.ter heights. Of the various theories advanced the most probable is their being a result of glacial action. To west of the canal is I^chy river, and near by (at foot of a moimtain) is Erracht house, birth- place of lieut.-gen. Sir Allan Cameron who served with dis- tinction in America, Egypt, Sweden; was through the Peninsular war and raised Ui three months the ygth Cameron Highlanders, ■ SCOTLAND v' ^5 ...,?'< r f • IWO . first later, t wide ,t over h, 350 ng the >untain es and $10 an IS when remains It, with )arts the ss, men tch of a xy, with masters, f general for 200 village of 4406 feet ashore at he top is rthing hut , is Inver- one time a iflict took ring defeat the warlike Eil stands 3ras at the sater battle. :;ienroy are n of former rest is about leights. Of heir being a I^chy rifver, house, birth- ed with dis- ^e Peninsular Highlanders, or 'Queen's own.' We are now passing loch Lochy, with scenery of surpassing beauty. Here are the ivy clad ruins of an old castle burnt by Cumberland after Culloden. Lochiel's estate was confiscated for the part he took in that unfortunate rising and the gallant owner passed years in exile in France, The property was afterwards restored. West of Lochy L loch Archaig, 1 4 miles long but of small width — a beautiful sheet of water in midst of romantic scenery, once vocal with the voice of men, the mirth of children; where rocks and hills echoed to the great war-pipes as the clans wore marshalled to battle — now the silence unbroken except by red deer or sheep. Farther on, the Frasers and MacDonalds had a fierce encounter in 1544, the former being nearly all butchered. The day was hot and com- batants throwing aside their outer garments, the melee was called ^Blar nn leine.' The scenery along loch Oich is very attractive, and by some compared to parts of the Rhine. Farther along to lefc is Glengarry through which a stream rushes with mad fury into the lake. An ancient castle of the MacDonalds crowning a rocky headland, was in 1746 burnt by Cumberland's people. Near the lake a strange monument stands by a spring — a pyramid crowned by seven stone crania. A lengthy inscription explains that near four centuries ago, MacDonell of Keppoch sent his two sons to France for instruction, that he had died and left the management of his estate to seven kinsmen. The sons at return were killed and the trustees took their possessions. A neighboring chief had the miscreants slain and their goiy heads, after being washed* in the spring aforesaid, were presented at his castle; while the monument was erected to record the fact that vengeance was not allowed to loiter. , ij -, : j- • ■ .1 An old castle ruin at Invergarry was long the home of Mac- Donald chiefs. / north end of loch Oich, Prince Charlie mustered the clans before setting out for the lowlands in 1745. Fort Augustus (30 miles from P'ort William) was built in 1729 to overawe the lans, and was intended to accommodate some 800 persons. In T845 ^^ was taken by the Jacobins, but re- captured next yea ifter Culloden. Here a host of chiefs were detained after the h. tie; here the bleeding head of Robert Mac- Kenzie was delivere . to Cumberland as that of Prince Charlie; here was confined the scheming Lovat before his removal south for beheading; from here were sent (after Culloden) soldiers to lay waste with fire and sword the surrounding country. Till the Crimean war the fort was occupied by troops; in 1867 it was sold to Lord Lovat for £5000, and ten years later it was by him Q I I !;i • ^i. ii nniai"" ^f^m^f ^^mffmsfff^^^''''^'^'^''"''^ fill in t RAMBLES IN EUROPE . u K It has since been irans- '^Xr,r... a.^ -t "nfe^ ?f„™ the whole cost be.ng Ld completeness may be m,e ^^^ _^^^^^,„^ „f the fott estimated at nearly ^ """'"" ,,„d engine-house. . , :„epttwo hastens, *e fo e and e g.^^^ clothed w,th fir, bud. We are now at loch N^'^- ™J , ^„d holly. A '''^\'''"^n 'g'Ut Fraser who fell ^t S='a»ga m^B g ^^ The fallr, of Foyers are farther on, ^^^^ ^.^^^^^^ '°.„ M 'i^ the stream be in good cond'tion^ A ^_^,^^, , ^^, u.Ued m ,;,ecl geologist (Dr. J^^ ^^ him while examining the stra« r ur T «n T bv a stone falung on n rorkv spur is a gnm Ifthat'lecLn. Urquhart castle on a rocky ,^^ ,^^ Is'^e ruin which in Us /^ ^d^nd garr'-ed by Edward About 600 years ago it was capv nrauhart w th lovely scenery fo England. Near by is gen U^^^^^^^^^ , g^ve i- hat merits the praise travellers ^^^ .^ p^-^^^d out^ Farther on, the birth-place of ^y^^^^^^^^ ^^ handsomely placed ^Cerne^s has about ->-°PfP,^1s about 50 yards wide^ on both sides of the river, ^he strea ^^^^^ ^ ^ quite shallow and f P^^' f,^, "^Slly laid out in walks and Tooded islands in the "^^^^//^^'^^'''iound for the people. The flower-beds, forming nice ^^^^^f 1^" ^^^ous hMl and appears to i n J rastle stands on a conspicuuv ^ 1 jg^ cathedral is prepared to match it^ ^\" ''^^^., 'I'omnahurigh cemetery (a Inot n which to spend a summer 1 ^^ Inverness. ^n. distant) is a natural curiosity and the en ^^^^^^ ^^^ us a tSckly-wooded hill, the ^^^P^^^^^.f ^J^ wi^ at bottom. eThigh, perW 300 yards -/ -^/.^"U irom the pl^m thickly planted among ^^^^^^[f^^^ ^, Drumossie) is some half- ailoden moor (formerly known as L ^^ ^7A\^:^'^ dozen miles from Inverness, "f^^^^^,, ^ mount the British cairn some 1 5 '^^^ "'^ i if' ',<»?^^;7r' SCOTLANP 67 r, birch ; farther ihes into ras V)orn pedition. It except to left, a killed in the strata is a grim important. ,y Edward ly scenery Lo give it- ointed out. lely placed yards wide, iges. Two walks and lople. The appears to ;h cathedral hop's palace s a pleasant cemetery (a of Inverness, of, about 1 50 Ae at bottom. ,m the plam. jadstones are ,nt the British rtly under cul- A memorial nche.^ in w^^i^h different clans were interred are marked with unhewn stones. A granite boulder 6x7 feet and 3|^ in thickness (a relic of the glacial period) is about 600 yards from the scene; and a deeply- cut inscription tells that on it Duke of Cumberland stood while directing the battle. Tourists display heroic perseverance in attempting to remove this landmark by carrying it off in pieces. It is thought that 250 Jacobites perished, while untold numbers were butchered in the meanest of cold-blooded fashion. It seems an attempt was made to exterminate the deluded people and leave that section of the kingdom a black ruined waste. Leaving the execution of chiefs a moot question, it was sheer brutal murder to wreak vengeance on the rank and file who merely obeyed the behest of their leaders. The Lord advocate, Duncan Forbes of Culloden, of whom bishop Warburton justly said that he was one of the greatest men ever Scotland produced, as judge, patriot and Christian — did much to save a throne to the Hanoverian blockheads. He prevented from rising, the powerful clans MacLeod and MacDonald who could themselves bring 8000 claymores into the field and make defeat of the government troops almost certain. Whatever money he could raise was loyally spent in these exertions; yet government (with king George at its head) refused to make good these expenses. Next year that truly great man passed away, pressed by clain;S he could not answer. The Georges had money enough to spend on court festivities and lewd women, but not a crown to pay what was many times a debt of honor. Tho dearly bought, the rebellion was not without advantage. The system of chiefs and clans then in vogue was a check to reform, a bar to progress; and that system with its tribal dis- tinctions, was completely abolished by the defeat at Culloden. Hitherto the Highlands were in a large measure impassable; but now military roads were built to the most distant recesses. Prince Charlie from being a gay chevalier at Holyrood and hero at Prestonpans, became a fugitive, skulking five months among the islands, a reward of £30,000 offered for his capture, which, to the honor of a primitive people, was never claimed. On September 20, 1746, he embarked on a French vessel at the spot he landed 14 months before. At Paris he received a kind reception, to be driven away two years later. But the Stuart fondness for wine and the company of bad women soon changed the chevalier into a different sort of person. In his 52nd year he married the Countess of Albany, then less than 20; but receiving such brutal treatment, she left him and settled at if -i I ' I it t. i u 68 ramdt.es in Ruropk Persons crossing to fckye or i. charges is V" " „, direction north-west. i^^J^^^^^^^. The principal "^i sU y ^ «f q town than 1 expecicu. widow ot Su J aims rustic seats and lodges^ i F i^^ ^^ f^^^^,. the estate being in charge Of ai g SCOTl.ANT* ' ''■ ■ 69 OSS the islands. Ud and r lochs. train is h Maree nds, one it bvirial. ains of a nparis to Gairloch buildings; ed Stvavh. and there unkind to in a room .0 miles— )ple and is industry is • sir James band many 770 square ry is varied n Skye. A one of the is of much ntr eastward ,pt with fine Iture. They paths, with in London, Storrvoway is beyond the 58th parallel, 12 degrees north of P. E. I. and only two degrees south of Greenland. Winter days are a mere apology, hut in summer they have 20 hours' sun and night is only twilight. In 1S87 ^^^ people were at point of famine owing to failure in |>otatoes (grain of course does not ripen), yet the inhabitants seem loth to part with those hills arrd glens occupied by their sires beyond record. It is sirrgnlar that j)eople are attached to places Ahere privations are r*tely mixed with honey, and the wolf ever howling at the door. Iceland is the most for!)idding land inhabited by ciVfliztid l)eople, and years ago when the i)Iace was threatened with general destruction, an attempt was made to remove the mhabitants to some better clime. This might be done, but it would be necessary first to kill them. This wierd attachment to soil is no doubt an advantage, as otherwise all wotild rush to the more desirable parts, causing incessant wars and bloodshed. As it is, the inhabitants of Norway artd Finland consider their country the glory of lands, while Italy with its gorgeous snmjets and balmy breezes is yearly deserted. From Stornoway to Portree (distance 60 miles) the Minch is passed, noted for its boisterous sea, which on the present occasion was true to its record. A hard rah^storm prevailed, and tho early in August, cold enough for winter. Portree (the chief place in Skye) stands at east of the island, with about as^o people. It is well built of light stone, has some half-do^en hotels, four churches, three banks and public buildings. Over halfdo2en miles to north, Storr nrountain rises 2500 feet, com- manding a grand view in fine weather. Its east side is pre- cipitous and broken, and near its summit stands a rock spire 160 feet in dimensions. Farther north is the Quirang, a species of basaltic cathedral with great ftuted columns, of which attempted descrifrtion would be labor in vain. The wh^le section is wildly tumbled and tossed, as if nature in building, had indulged in a frolic. In a land of grand geologic upheavals, the Quirang is doubtless the object of greatest attraction. A few miles westward is the grave of Flora Macdonald, over which (in 1871) a granite monolith, 28 feet high, was erected. In 1877 it was blown down and broken in five pieces. Uig village at head of a bay, is a beautiful spot — at least so in summer. A few miles nearer Portree is Kingsboro house, at which Prince Charlie spent sometime and where (in r773) Flora MacDonald entertained Dr. Johnson. Some 20 miles- west of Portree is Dunvegan (residence of MacT.eod) a ftne R H wmmm mean ««»; ;^^„ ,, ,„,Vh ,vml '»"""7 ,, 'I'\,e,| .Muli. "U.t being mostly "»:"'"", „„„,„u ,m»»«l > V « »* ' i,^ „, rx:: ;-- '•-- 1 "••" i^f ; r;-);tt.r.»f -, ^tni^.:i .-s^- *-- - .nr^ now - .0 r;i^^ SCOTLAWn 7« w «•* )f U» I the iu\eur i-oe in ly «•»«» \)Ul ■»« uin ivuy lev li^y" I mile or n\'\\\, «fti«l resitWnce i-on luiml- ,yi«. 'no« lIcv. vvrcly over ^ U) u\oun aoVie^l iv'vth 1^ ana one ,- in \)aH8ing. i^^c 20 niUes ■cu to rigM. lev. A ^»^^^^ ,u,\ of oUlen . ago aSl^y- „d of ^«^[f rvin smoothly ■ption. ''^^''^ bomwi ffts^' rudder, 'l'^^ Sky <;hief, olit lor n. nnil, fell in with \un (hrcVul rIanRman and vowed evil to Kiji»i \\\m\ ijo VcrtN (Hnn »ht« IhliuMtftnH wrf-f ' hi«i»mlh \\\v « h«lr \V!i« !« nrtiniu ^llrrt♦11 \\U\rU Imv^ » ttnlfl r»i|-»l H^irtH ii\ V U't\\rf»n ^770 rtiul tMyn tiH l»»ni>»rjM»hiM);> rthil iMiilHiUB r»Wbrtt lrm»Mttt«. nw-ltld tM fww\e «\\'< xyt\t\\'^ ^Wm\ ('t»li»ptn« rtt It?* brnt ; whih' ihr !ittir»l<»' H \»1loi rt WrtVnmg \\\\\s\\\ r\'v\\ uilHtttf. Ulrtfi^ilW |ifH tWfl Ittilps nf K^WAVi^, r>v hertlv^ilrti-i* r-it- veMplii (tin! *)(»• rivft- ^ rt«»R!n«il liy hrtU«i«(>wn hw^Rv* ht»«Wir ' »hMm« fn* hiilw-iv tmfflc. The Hiv H •wjiWTly mtMt* »>rihtl fhv hniltlinp mrtttl nlii)i« (tiit*' «»( the fjti'Mtp««t R»>lK>x rltemunil wtnks «:t»\Tr tC) rtrti?«. (Mtiplnt jilmtit t.^wo j^ rhimrtHn ( <^5 (»mi i^4 feet hinh) me nflitl h^ Ivp >^'JUm\it t^^m\, ii\U'xvA'< [\\v r>»'' nHisp hn« tin |irt»filh'l Iti ^lllme*^«ix^n«. Th»» imn\vo»W» rt»T ni m-rtlf (»l viist |»m|H)rHniis -^»1ji« |M niillR. rtith n yenilv tmtptil rtf 5i^>v IkW A\'At^ tii> i-r>«^)tThend lh»' f^\iii?nU\ ♦•pptf'W^tHeil In tlN«c tijiiWh^. Wr n>ttt>n mHt^stn !<< nnly bp«y>o«^ tT> Mnnrlipntrr CAtivei As-vpAvii^v T-rtit^n iwintmn;. hlwirhiiig; fitnl living iire ekten- t4vm\' ixwrried ««. ttr»^\vh^ snil Mmtilliog «re rtior»(«g ihe vnst <\!ydh»tHeR. h\«t ui\ft>rttn\rtid\ iT»nsum|Uion of thrse ptinl\irt"« is ^ilplwiw m-tUT No^^hore ii> Hritrtin iliil I wr trtvprhR in l»^iy. A«x4 <^wox* tVeqwiMHtly their roiwplement, the pnwivihoji, w tW AK>»\gw\e. a i ' ' '" M live ontKtpdwl (i\b«rt\it *oo veurs oM) is thip ottl>" atirlertt WiMuvji w iMs'sgt^w ^if.* ^voxft;^ fV'et. with rrntml spite aao. ami the Ui-gest sH«« nf o^U>retii rliWR iti Britain. The neuopolis <^ A steeji HiU «ii^\Hninft:. «"^ntains hat^dnomc motvtitiientH to ^stii^iro«|rho«t th^ ciu Arc niv>num«nts to Sir Jmhn Mnorr. Thtimfis <^jin\p1"»e^l, l>r. I .n-^t^tsM^, j-mies WAtts^ Sir Robert Peel, I)tik« <^ X^dHngtiw. Sir W^lttr Scott. l>otd Clyde. Prince Consort. Rohert ftatnvs *nn Ctlttsjpow green »tandi a U nctrfi.AHti 7.1 \\\ irKi 111' '.cjww »p t»llHifr|^«); ''fit smoker and t-nnl t\iint \mvi' loh^ ^ivcn tli^fn n. ftfc cont nf i(ln(Vfiefi«J thf rify has lltree niilway statiofis of largp exttnt, whif h give', an ify home sf/caku of \mU', wcnlflt and /ornfort Ihft rify wntfr <;nfrply rom«» fhnn lot'h katfine, over ^o miles liy pip^, viad»fr.t nnd tunnel. ihnu\mtt(m tmiU' ntands on rt rofck aOo feet hij?h, (rt) a pnint )(ittiti^5 into the rlvft, »5 miles hekrw (Hasgovv, This ^r(*at inrnnid !•< no ienn sintji'laf in form than of interest from hi'-'-ri^ connexion; and a nrnall (garrison ii* kept, rnntc ftrt show than actual t(se. Krotn fieo' the seenery alonj( earh shfrre \n of jj/jeat licailty. Moth sides are planted with small tthsay on the island of fhite is partictilarly attractive and always crowded with strangers. Farther scmth is the island of Arran, with mountain scenery rarely surpassed in Britain. Ayr lies due east from the south point of Arran, the frith here being jd)Out 20 miles wide. By rail from Olasgow, the distance is ,^6 miles. Ayr has about ^0,000 people, and magriificent railway station opened in 1 886. The inn at which Tam O'Shanter and his friends were accustomed to solace them- selves is tised as of old to deal out liquors. The 'auld brig' (built over 600 years ago) is yet standing, tho only used is footway, fn 1778 a new bridge was built a short distance off and those familiar with Burns remember the tart reply of the ' auld brig ' when its homely looks were derided — ' I'll be a brig when ye're a shppeless cairn.' This prediction nearly came s » "li 74 RAMBLES IN EUROPE 1^ I ) I : v., k true; for in 1877 the ' new brig ' gave way and the present one was erected at cost of $80,000. The Wallace tower is a hand- some structure 115 feet high, erected in 1832, succeeding a former one of unknown date. The town building is really handsome, with a slender spire 226 feet, at one time the tallest in Scotland. Burns' cottage or rather his birthplace is two miles south of Ayr, a beautiful road bordered with trees, leading to it. The cottage (to which additions were since made) was built by the poet's father and now forms the middle part oi the house. The walls, chimney, bed and floor of clay are I believe genuine, and the prints often seen are correct. The place is rented to a couple who exact a small admission fee and dispense various kinds of refreshments. Kirk AUoway (dating from 15 16) is a quarter mile farther on, roofless; but the walls and gables are firm and the bell is yet in position. The ' winnock bunker in the east ' is right there and the whole relic appears capable of withstanding the footfall of centuries to come. A magnificent tree grows in the area and remains of several persons are planted where (acording to Burns) unclean spirits vere accus- tomed to hold nightly revels. The kirk is a small affair, perhaps 60 feet from the road, and directly in front of the gate lie the remains of the poet's father and mother — also of Mrs. Begg, his youngest sister who died in 1856. The enclosure is small and crowded with citizens of a past age. Right across the road is new kirk AUoway, built in 1857 — ''- "^^* handsome structure resembling somewhat St. James' church in Charlottetown. AUoway village (of which no trace exists) stood between the kirk and cottage. Some 200 steps farther is Burns' monument, erected in 1820 at cost of $15,000, Greco-Roman style and 60 feet in height, A room in it contains a marble bust of the poet, the bible he gave to Mary Campbell, a ring, ms. of poems and other souvenirs. The grounds (over an acre) are nicely laid out in flower-beds and walks, and contain a statue of Shanter and Souter in a grotto. The pile is largely due to the exertions of Mr. Boswell of Anchenleek, by whose advice a meeting was called at Ayr to consider the matter. So little interest was taken that he himself was the only one present; but feeling assured the enterprise only needed starting, he voted himself to the chair, moved, seconded and passed a resolution that a monument be erected. The meeting was dismissed with- out the usual vote, a report of it and of the resolution appeared in the papers, money began to come from all parts, and soon the work was undertaken and in due time completed. The ' brig iri i;/. 'jjr^.'i&''kiV;\iti-/,i^i.:j'i :.K.':,u,^X'tiliJ::i\i.i:^i>^.i^irt,^il,.-^f!:k.: SCOTLAND 75 ; one hand- ing a really tallest miles ; to it. uilt by house. enuine, ed to a various 6) is a >les are inker in )able of gnificent ;ons are ■e accus- , perhaps te lie the Begg, bis ;mall and e road is structure ottetown. n the kirk lonument, le and 60 ust of the of poems are nicely , statue of due to the advice a So little ^e present; g, he voted resolution lissed with- n appeared i, and soon Tbe ' brig O'Doon' is about 100 steps distance, one arch 60 feet span and perhaps 30 feet above water. The stream u: about 20 yards wide, some dozen feel below general level, quite shallow with a fringe of trees alon^ each margin. In 181 6 a new bridge was built 100 yards down stream and the ' auld brig' was sold to the contractor for the sake of materials. But public sentiment rebelled and the bargain was cancelled. Apart from classic associations the spot is beautiful and romantic — a chosen ground for picnics. A Mr. David Auld who had retired from business, built a small octagon structure on the river flats between the two bridges, and covered the inside with shells of almost every variety and bigness. Large mirrors are placed so as to magnify the dimensions and multiply the effect. His last years were spent in adorning this pavilion and beautifying the grounds. While travelling in this section one is constantly hearing the train hands, as they rein up the iron-horse, shout — ' Irvine! ' 'Kilmarnock!' ' Cumnoc!' ' Mauchline!' •Sanquhar!' and other places associated with the life and songs of Scotia's poet. Irvine has about 7000 people and considerable manufactures. Kilmarnock (not far off) has 24,000 people and extensive manu- factures. The first edition of Burns' poems was printed here in 1786. Mauchline on the Ayr has about 2000 people. The poet lived on a farm at short distance. The village has a monument to five covenanters who suffered here in 1685. Dumfries, about 60 miles south-east of Ayr, is on tlje Nith, crossed by two bridges, one dating from the 13th century. Burns lived here from 1791 till his death in 1796, and the house was occupied by his widow till she passed away 38 years later. The Burns mausoleum was erected in 1817 near the church he attended. It is a small Doric temple, surmounting the vault, the whole costing $7000. Besides less important mementos, it contains a mable statue of Burns at the plow, with Coila casting over him a mantle. In the Globe tavern (a favorite haunt) his chair, punch-bowl, cane and writing-desk are preserved; also the chair and work-box of his wife. On a pane in a window is a stanza written by him in praise of folly. All those are readily shown without charge, tho a gratuity is no doubt expected. A fine marble statue of the poet was placed on High street in 1887. THE np:therlands. Early in June I crossed from Harwich (on east coast of England) to Rotterdam in Holland — distance over 200 miles. Before commencing my rambles I will give a short notice of the i'ts '» W' i^ ^: Ki V. t I, mmm mm I •ii If III I 1 I t * 76 RAMULES IN EUROPE country, hoping the.description will not weary the reader. From north to south the extreme length of Holland is rather less than 200 miles, from east to west 110 miles. The population is above four millions, about two-thirds Protestant, and both denominations receive support from th^ state. The country is much cut up by rivers, stre tns and canals; and being below water level, large sections have been overwhelmed during storms. In the extreme north, Dollart bay (7x10 miles) was formed by invasion o\ the sea 600 years ago, causing the destruction (it is said) of 33 villages and thv, death of 10,000 persons. In the north-west, the Zuyder Zee (35x80 miles) was formed by a similar invasion. Kvery precaution is taken to preserve the dykes and sea-walls. Storks are protected by law as they feed on small animals that burrow and injure the defences. If a dyke break an alarm bell sounds and aU within hearing rush to the scene, carrying faggots, sails and anything calculated to impede the rush of water. * Holland is eminently a grazing country, noted for its white cattle, butter and cheese — the latter made perfectly round like cannon shot. [So far as my observation went, 3 p. m. is the hour for milking.] Herring fishing is an important industry, commencing on June /5th. On the 14th fishermen raise their flags and attend church to pray for suv^cess; on the T5th they set out, those on shore spending the day in pleasure. Arrival of the first boat is eagerly watched from church steeples, and the first keg of fish put up is sent to the king. The Zuyder Zee fishing alone is said to employ 1350 boats and about 5000 persons — the catch some seasons exceeding 30,000 barrels. The Dutch excel in their mode of curing fish. The herring are eaten raw, as they claim cooking would spoil them. Holland has no large manufacturing centers, Init small ones are numerous. In proportion to size of country and number of people, the public works of Holland take a high place. A ship canal (5 1 miles long) from Amsterdam to the Helder was con- structed 60 years ago; and 40 years later a canal 16 miles long, giving more direct route to the North Sea, was built at cost of $11,000,000. But the sale of 12,500 acres of land (reclaimed by the work) reduced the cost to half that figure. In 1 838 they drained nearly 15,000 acres near Rotterdam, the work costing about $roo an acre, the land being sold for a small advance on the cost. Encouraged by this, government voted more than $4,000,000 for drainin^' Haarlem lake 45,000 acrc^s and 14 feet average depth. This great work was begun in 1840 and finished THE NETHERLANDS 77 in '52; after which the land was surveyed and sold at about cost figures. All reclaimed lands in Holland are for 25 years frce*^^ from tax, but a rate of $1.60 [}er acre is required to keep engines, canals, dykes and bridges in repair. The lake-bed is kept dry by enormous pumping engines, and any hitch in the machinery would soon flood the section. Some years ago government voted over ten million dollars for reclaiming a section of the Zuyder Zee, 487,000 acres in extent — quite an addition to a small congested country. It was proposed to build a breakwater across the bay where it is only 28 miles wide, with average depth of ten feet. The structure was to rise far above ordinary tide, and the material was to be granite from Norway. Whether the undertaking is in progress or not I am unable so say. The Dutch are of Teutonic origin, like Germans, English and lowland Scotch. Their language 1;. a dialect of low German, and its vocabulary contains many wo '■? used north of the Tweed. I found but little difficulty ' jading Dutch news- papers, tiut learning ^o speak the 1 age is quite another matter, English is taught in their high schools, but the pro- nunciation is bad. The climate , of Holland is damp, changeable and the sky gcneraily overcast. The average of bright days ii. a year is given at 40, with 170 on which rain falls. There is not much snow in winter, but the cold is intense. The country is then covered with ice, and from the least to the greatest, all move on skates. 9 Holland is without natural forest, but plantations of bz^i^h, oak and elm are frequent. In the parks, be^ch trees may be seen smooth as ships' masts up to 60 or 70 feet. In Belgium, tracts of sandy barren are planted with pine and oak. When of proper size the former is use! for railway sleepers, the latter, when four or five inches thick, are cut and the bark peeled off for tanning. Near the coast the soil is mostly peat mixed with sand. The farms are small and the principal crops rye, buck- wheat, barley and oats, besides potatoes, fiax, hemp, rape-seed, beets, hops, tobacco and mustard. Some wheat is raised in the south. Vegetables, berries and all kinds of small fruit are in great abundance. The history of Holland is interesting beyond that of other countries, the i6th century being the stirring epoch. Spain at that time stood first in wealth and power, and by evolutions of history Holland came under Spanish yoke. Philip II. (one of T if ( , mmm « 9 ftAMfil.Kft IN fttlkOl'Ji- the Mrtrkt^m iU'IuIm aiul l)lt>mllpsl tvhuils) mis not stitisflisMl wllli llk»gi(\i\rr in \\u.' ott'inrtty uiunn<'» his subjct Im inuMt sul mid hdievi' as la- wisluMi. I'hf pcnple, like Ji \vt)ini tttul iipnii, roHc \\\ «Wrence of iiMisrienit* intl rlrhtfi—luit how niif(|i)iil the ron»e«t. i)H one siiU' were dis'-iplided litiops In tlmUHitmlft ivntl goUl mwvx wiihotii botfoni: on llir oIIum-, tMtfirniiMJ peunjints rn>n\ firM iin-l niiokoi. The u-snli n»!iv In* ^nt-Hsfd llic tunrige Wfis tt'nihU\ smtudy Hnrpiissnt m inking iil tlu' jewiHli rapilAS. RIooil. l\tts vU'sinnlion m'W iht- onleiH issiu'd tind they \\e\r frtithrnlly t-nrtrifd. The iinpii^ilion in itH worst foi-m h'M\ \\\\] sropc .owl lio.niu'iy of \\h' tnnlrsi tU'Mtiiplion wns rosoHvd to whoM xMhvr nicnns IhiliMl. Allrr nrarly n rriitiiry of hloodshttl. the Duivh irpnhhr ol seviMi IV«U'i(il pfovint es Wfla » \>niplotcd. Hut the insiKiiitirrtnt sliiti' (hom in midst of ' tiiiiHge) soon her.inu" sti-on^. nnd dnring fi ci nunv mlrd du- Wiivos. In »8o6 {]w NotluMlitnds won* inndr m kingdnm by Nitp(Heon tor his hnul'tM l,»nnR; and iti iHio ii ItM.um" a depattmcnl ol lY.inro. Froiu i.^i^ t'^ '>lo, Holland anti IU'l')iuin weie united, the liViitM iH^'Oiuinn; independent ai that date, t.ike ohlsilves, the Ontrh had a stain! np hgin on die (pi'-slion of si-iiamle sehools and I am not sme thi mallei is entirely sett'ed. Kdueation is pjiid In & ' state, esi ept the teacjiing ol foreign languagv. for whieh extra rharge is made, !' e hours of seluu)! rtttendrtnee aiv the saim wintei ;mu1 sumni'M from y to 4. with an horn ofV at noon Mn-^ir h i aught from 7 to M p. in,, gymnasties from 7 to S a. m si hool «>ver) Siitiirday till noon i^i hi-- Hotteiniam with 160.000 people is to right of the Maas, .lUont 20 miles from its mo\Hh. Iie aniving, Hie small town of HnoUc is seen to right; her-" » iist«)m olfu iais eome on hoard to e\rtmin< luggage. HrnlK' vvas the first place taken from tiie Sp.^niatxls in 1572. was in I'.nj/.ish oeenpat ion from 1 5H5 to i6ift. and was the birthphn-e of admirals Van JUJinp and l)e VV^itt. The most noted feaiure ing ashoix' is .1 man lowing a eanal lv>ai. his dog hiixhed to the lin*^ and pulling with all his might. l">ogs are nearlv always in harness, ready to pidl on a towline or haul a milk-iart. Kvcrything looks strange to one from this country — windmills, ( anals, high hridges, wooden shoes and the eurious heAd gear of w-omen. I understood that 60 windmills ■..^^.^^in^ tUP, ttP.IUf-Ht.AHm 79 il wUli ml the tin iunl lU tlie jrwinh M ilM'.l Hi U)m on wrts »turv "f : es was iMtSi'lVfH, acUrtfAle hpIOvmI >f foreign 1)1" sihoul :i) 4. witli « |>. tn.. till lUHtn ho MtUlH, »m\U town on boartl \ from mo » 1585 1" ip iine «peiis fnonnrnents to distinguished mefi, htit they were portefl on immense iron pil'ars 12 or 15 feet above street level, resembling somewhat the elevated railway in New York. The distinguished scholar l*/rasmus who first translated the New 7'estament into f/atin was born here in r.fOy. The house is yot without flaw or t»lemish, sliowiuj/ the extellence of hutrh work. A bronze statue of him stands on a bridge in *he 'great market.' , Three or four miles by rail and we are at Schiedam, a plac;e of about 23,000 people. ( elebrated for its manufacture of gin, known here as ' Hchnaps.' It has 270 distilleries, producing yearly al»out ten million gallons of the stuff. The refuse from (to malthouses feed more than 30,000 swine, and many horned cattle. It has sonn two dozen cooperages and a stearine factory, using yearly more than 3,000 tons of tallow and paJm oil in manufacture of <:;iiis of Grotius and Van JVom are m another. A few miles from f>elft and we are at the Hague r;allcd Scravenhage in the (ountry. ft is by far th^' handsomest town 8o RAMBI-ES IN EUROPE I il in Holland, the home of royalty and seat of government — the streets are wide and clean, the parks magnificent. The cdthedral (used for Protestant worship since 1715) has a chime of 38 bells, its steeple 360 feet high. The picture gallery has some fine paintings by Dutch and Belgian masters, the most famous by Paul Potter and known as ' Potter's bull.' The subject is a young short-horn, a veritable ' speaking likeness,' well deserving the celebrity it has acquired. The national monument to Dutch independence (1813) is a splendid piece of sculpture, and there are several fine monuments to ' William the Silent.' Adjoining the city is a forest of great beech and elm trees, intersected by walks, drives and paths, lakes, fish-ponds and canals. Near the center is a royal palace, not inhabited except by custodians. The rooms shown are elegant and cheerful — walls adorned with satin hangings and floors covered with rich carpets. Some of the ceilings are said to have been painted by Rembrant and his pupils. In the picture gallery hangs a portrait of John Lothrop Motley (author of an imperishable work on the Dutch republic), born near Boston 181 4, died in England 1877. At night the forest is lighted with lamps hung among the trees. In and near the Hague are several palaces and royal seats. The Hague was (in 1650) the birthplace of William III. of England, and in 1629, of Huygens, a philosophe*- rcely less distinguished than Newton. Here was beheade 1619, John of Barneveld, a man ot great ability and virtues. The struggle with Spain had developed such a spirit of heroic defiance that his wife refused to sue the Spanish tyrant for pardon, though receiving intimation that her petition would be accepted. Like all Dutch towns canals are numerous, generally with a row of lime trees along the margin. There being no protection and inhabited houses within a few yards, I inquired if parents were not kept busy fishing their young ones out of the water. I was informed that no accident of that kind ever happens — verily those Hollanders are wise from the cradle. Sometimes a small flat is used for crossing. A person steps on board, gives the canal side a kick and presto he's across. [This arrangement, in communing with myself, I named a ' kick-ferry.'] Some bridges rise high above the street level and canal boats pass under by lowering the mast, which is always hinged at deck. Other bridg^es swing aside like a gate to allow boats a passage — each paying toll. Canal boats are /rom 50 to 60 feet long, with a capacity of 30 or 40 tons, absurdly blunt and of great strength and weight. They answer the purpose of trucks, and are usually ^ik m m^^-^ THE NETHERLANDS 8i IM -the idral f 38 some ii\ous L is a living Dutch there oining ed by :ar the )dians. ;d with ame of and his jothrop public), ight the ,nd near 1 HI. of cely less 9, John struggle ince that though d. y with a )rottction parents water. I ns— verily es a small gives the rement, m me bridges under by Ick. Other sage jng, — each with a jat strength are usually laden with peat, brush, firewood, grain, brick etc., generally moving from place to place till the cargo is disposed of. Fre- quently a canal-boat is fitted up as travelling store, stopping in front of houses whose inmates can step on board and make purchase. The owner and his family live on board, the hinder part being fitted up for dwelling. An old sail is used as awning, and under it in fine weather the family may be seen cooking, eating, sewing, washing as occasion requires. Some boats have houses on deck, and from peeps through open windows, they appeared comfortable and tidy as dwellings on shore. Curtained windows, easy chairs, canary birds, flowers in pots and vases, hanging lamps with porcelain shades, and perhaps closer inspection might discover an organ or piano. But these high- caste barges are not of frequent occurrence. When the craft is underway mien vrou is at the helm, the master working the ship. Women are often seen at the hardest and meanest kind of labor on these barges. During early part of the day women are washing and scrubbing, while small Dutchmen are counting their toes in cradles or crawling about the deck. In afternoons, when everything has been put right, these ladies may be seen l)aying and receiving visits, exchanging gossip and no doubt swapping fibs. Social distinction is (you may depend) sharply observed — ladies in deck-houses refusing to mingle with less fortunate sisters who enter the cabin by a ladder. Smaller boats are used to bring vegetables and other stuff to market; and on one occasion I counted over 70 of them in about 90 yards of canal, wedged closely together crosswise leaving a passage for others at the stem. The.se c^nal people greatly interested me, and on returning to the hotel I begaii to interview the proprietor about them; but with a look of supreme disgust he informed me they were not recognised as belonging to that aristocratic city — they were, he said, people without home or country. The Hague is three r iles inland and a village of hotels along tiie shore is a busy spot in summer. Sand ramparts (the only hills in Holland) are here about 50 feet high, sloping steeply towarc's the water. A kind of grass grows on them, the roots of which bind the unstable material and prevent its dislodge- irent. At low tide a large extent of white sand is exposed, and this space was occupied by hundreds of pleasure seekers. Scores of tents with gay pennons, hundreds of tall wicker chairs, a street of booths for the sale of toys extending out near the water — made a gay picture that clear afternoon. The day u €' li) .'•f il ft , 'J 5«i >fl^«n MMIjillliliiiliiiiKiHI Si RAMni,F,«» !N P.I'hOPtr WAS hoi, Inil i« reffeshiiig lireere ivune in rrt)in the ftemiitn oc-enn. Npii b), 6a huge Ashing IuhUs were hauled 'here, pmppe»l on ev»Mi keel and preparing for use on the niorri A long, gay streamer rtuUered from each masthead — & ••ally curious sight till one remembered it was June 14th when every v.ts\(\ on sea or shore nni«t sport a petmon. A rondenmed craft was l)eit\g reduretl to pie« es and I notic ed the limbers were large enough for a vessel fo\n times its dimensions. Why boats are made so heavy, blunt and imwieldy remnins one of the indisrovered pn)blems except that in these countries there seems undying relvictance to tleviale from any scheme once established by habit. The grx>\md in Holland being perfectly flat the railways lie on the s\irface — no grades, no i;urves» wo cuUings, \w tunnels. Vet one sees but little from the «-ar wimlow, as the track is usually bordennl with biishes, while plantations of willow obstruct the view. 'I'en miles fronv the Hagtie and we are at Leyden, with 40,000 people. Near the < enter stands a ruined tow'er, known as the Ihirg- its highest part rising alxuit 60 feet. There is no authentic r'"«ird f»f its origin, and whether of Roman or Saxon ancestry rer'^ains ;'ncerlaiw. Ley-len has a lovely park and its museums of natural history and antiquities are among the first of their kind. In the bo'anic gardens 1 saw several plants and flowers for the first time. The sensitive j>lant shuts its leaves like a fist when an cfl'er is made to strike it; and the diamond i)lant when placed in water resembles exactly a precious stone of rose pattern. A remarkably fine weepii\g becvh was among the attractiotis. The ;,iege of Leyden forms one of the n»ost stirring chapters in the world's annals. It is stated that when Valdez the S}>anish commander sent an insulting message demanding surrender, they replied- ' We'll eat our left hands when pro visions fail and defend our liberties with the right.' In five months provisions did fail, and it is said that dogs, cats and rats were used as food. M this extremity a carrier pigeon flew over the ramparts with glad tidings that Princ e of Orange was coming with 200 boat loads of food. Hut vmfortunately the rejoicings were brief- the dykes were ( ut, but there was not sufficient water, and the people were goaded to niadness by seeing from the Burg supj>lies that were unable to reach ihem. All now became frantic — further hope appeared u.sclcss Cries tor hreat. rose on every side, accompanied by urgent demand to surre«atriot, no name should have higher position. Relief came at last, but n(;t till many had fallen a prey to famine. A violent north wind raised the waters, driving off the besiegers and floating provisions to the famishing people. No wonder tho the date of deliverance (October 3, '574) is yearly observed in the city. I.eydcn is a noted seat of learning, as well as a chief mart for manufacture of w miles from l,eyden was my next stopping-placf The track passes over the bed of Haarlem lake (noticed already), but one sees little to indicate the fact. Ditches or canals are everywhere alongside, and the land is generally used for hay or pasture. The water is kept down by immense pumps and any hitch in the ma<:hinery would soon Hood leagties of rountry. Adjoining the town is a forest of beech, elm and oak trees, tjieir giant arni.^ meeting 80 or 90 feet above ground, resemble the aiches of immense cathe drals. Walks, . Men and «em rontmon m ai) f I u RAMUl.M IH «"«"" L is , rwe toy »i,ii.» ."0 »u.i«"J«'> f'-;'^,;;;^ NclhcUml .lmt.:l,c», ""^^j !^\ f„i ed ... di»<"ve>; '\> »"™'; t«tt "';:««> «a.er. An o..- » ';-,!i';:,„e„„ n„« S Ihe 1«»' » "i'*''"^'' "",1 i" aW .o 1..VC 5000 pipe". "Tfec* high. ...«i >' ;;:': ;:^>r. Xui (ii"n,™"n'«"' -- ft,a. on ...P »"„ ;":•!, mo.10 in l.a.in 'h-c">' ; »« 1, ihr most popoto""'"'"" "^"" » .uri"..« »^'«'"-'' "' ,,eople. tic '"o"' V„v I"'"' "']^' iXs and """^"^f "■ aikUnfy streams »"»'»• 1:"^;, Tn «t form of a '"•["-^"'•'•.t'^oo 'riJgcs, ".»= vc»rs as"i , Holland i"' . , , insist ol Bonapan... then ^mg„„,„,,. ^e fo.m Amsterdam has many old (htirches, some dating from the 13th rentnry. Ilic ' oiide kerk ' (f)ld kirk) is a tuassive brick structine with internal arrangements similar t»» St Havon's at Haarlem. It has some fme stained c^ltss windows, and the organ loft tlisphys 'superior workmanship, Several fme monu ments are badly dofft< ed a result of zeal during f6th century trembles. I attended (/reaching (»n a Mabbath afternoon and (bund the servi<;e little different from Presbyterian worship. The exercises consisted of two serrncms one following the other, and the tunes were of the 'martyrdom' and 'old hinidred' style — very soft and plaintive. I'he preacher seemed greatly in earnest and I have no doubt his (hscourse vas effective. At the close he bapti/cd aa infantu, first reafling from a t)Ook a formula respc< tifig tlic rite. The a<;l was performed by dipjung his hand in water and three times touching the child's foreh' ul. J'hc prayer at close was ex<;eed so inferred from the preacher's tone and manner. On coming in, all engage in silent [jraycr b(;fore sitting. The zoo gardens, pi( ture galleries and museums of Amster- dam are justly noted. In the former are white peacocks, white turkey fowl and a wliitr t-row. Here for the first time I saw fat-tailed Syrian sheep. An arpiarium in the grounds (besides the usual variety of fishes) contained specimens of anemones, king crab, hermit ( rab, sea-horse, and the familiar crustacean vulgarly ktiown as lobster. In the museum of antiquities I saw the ' Chinese ivory puzzle,' which is sim|>Iy a number of ivory balls cut inside of each f)ther. The city has a nice park, formerly a vile shaking bog, which industry and skill made a scene of beauty. Amsterdam has long been noted f(»r diamond ( ut»;ng; a man named Coster employs about 400 hands an<| hns \\n rival in the tr,ul(!. Of I Ho, 000 (;irats that yeaily come to Kurope, Cmter 19 said to buy (Un? half, tt wa^ he who cut and [lolished the famous kohinoor, which has a place in the llriti.sh crown. In one of the Anv>lcidam [)risons <;riminals fit is said) were formerly compeUcd to sav/ wood. If niffai lory they were put in a cellar itUo which a stream was constantly running, so they had to pump lively or perish. The n|)jnfiuis was part of the same concern intended for women. Husbands sent here vicious consorts to teat h them proper habits; whereas a wife could pla' e her spouse in another sec;tion on pror^f of grave rni'>conduc(. v h m ' m--- ill 86 RAMBLES IN EUROPE About six miles from Amsterdam is the village of Broek, thought to have no equal in the world for neatness. No horse is allowed on the streets, shoes are left at the door and the most inveterate smoker dares not indulge in the house. Cow-sheds are also natty, as besides cleaness, there are hooks and cords to keep the cow's tail in sling while milking. Utrecht 20 miles south of Amsterdam, is an interesting old place with about 70,000 people. It is different from other Dutch towns in being above sea-level. The old ramparts have been partly levelled and form attractive promenades round the city. A splendid avenue half mile long (six rows of lime trees with driveway and paths between) is a noticeable feature. A stream runs throu^Hi the town, eight or ten feet below pavement level, the sides built like house walls, with windows and doors at intervals. These excavations are used for storage and in some instances as dwellings. The cathedral is a massive structure dating from 730, with ceiling 100 feet high. Over 200 years ago a violent storm demolished a part, and at present the tower (formerly at the end) is about 150 feei from it. The stained glass was destroyed and monuments were defaced during the i6th century troubles. From the tower (320 feet high) most of Holland may be seen. At Utrecht in 1579 a confederation of the seven provinces was effected; and in 17 13 a treaty of peace was concluded at close of the wars of Spanish succession. The city was also headquarters of the Jansenists who caused so much disturbance 250 years ago. Zeist, an interesting village some miles away, is much frequented in summer. A tramway takes passengers out for a trifle, and the route is one of the most pleasant I ever travelled. Water in form of lake, stream or canal, fine avenues, ornamental grounds, flower gardens and lovely pavilions are nearly always in sight. The village consists principally of hotels, is surrounded by forest and avenues of great beeches. Dort is an ancient locking place, twelve miles south-east of Rotterdam. The river Maas here resembles an inland sea, studded with islands, the town being on one of them. Till within 450 years much of what is now covered with tide was cultured fields, dotted with cattle. The bursting of a dyke over- whelmed 72 villages, causing the loss of 10,000 lives and many thousand cattle, Dort, as by a miracle, escaping. The town has about 30,000 people and is perhaps more Dutch than any in the low countries. It has an active trade and deals largely m timber. I THK NKT HER LANDS 87 Great rafts that come down the Kiiine from Switzerland and the Black forest are here broken up and stored away to await the needs of commerce. Some of them are 300 yards long, worth $50,000 and managed by crews of 50 to loo men, having their wives and families on board. Here are many sawmills, salt and sugar refineries and factories of tobacco. At Dort (in 157*) the states-gene ril held first meeting after the country had rid itself from the Spaniards, and here in 161 8 a church synod, after long deliberation, pronounced Arminius a heretic. Much of the Lrnd being too damp for anyth ng else, is used for raising osiers or willows. These are among the staples of Holland, grown in great abundance and applied in many ways. Besides the wicker-work r.long margins ot canals and streams to keep the suil from washuig, they are made into baskets, creels, chairs and hampers. A few miles from Dort the train crosses a bridge three-half miles long with swinging gate for vessels. We are now in south Holland, a really beautiful land with evidence of good culture. Fine crops of rye, wheat, peas and roots, tall church spires in the distance, red-roofed villages abundant, peat-digging in fields which had been tilled for centuries, roads along dykes with a row of trees each side, boats and barges seen at small distance appear to be sailing on land. Breda has : 6,000 people, some old churches and a chateau built by William HI. of Britain. In 1590 the place was taken from the Spaniards as follows : Eighty soldiers got into the garrison in a boat under a cargo of peat. At night they crawled out, speared the guards and seized the citadel. We are now advancing into Belgium — canals ad windmills disappear and roof tiles are of different color. Much of the soil is sand and plantations of pine, oak and tir are frequently passed. Belgium carries on largely the business of tanning and young oak trees (four or five inches thick) are cut down and peeled for that p' rpose. Great piles of the peeled wood are at railway stations, and whole trains laden with baric are frequently met. As Antwerp is neared the country looks more productive — larger fields and better-looking crops. Antwerp is a noted old town of 173,000 people, on the Skeldt, here half mile in width. The cathedral is chief lion, rated the finest Gothic church in Belgium and only surpassed by few in any country. It is a massire brick structure, 400x250 feet in area, over 500 years ago founded. The spire (400 feet) is a marvel of sculptured tracery and c sidered by many first of its kind in EuroDe. Seen from ihe ri\ i it is extremely imposing. The largest of its 60 bells ^ I ::^A IMAGIE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) L ■^ l» III 2.2 l^ lie IM •^ iiiii^^ !.l 1.25 1.4 1.6 P^

., ^ r c>^ Photogi^hic Sciences Corporation 4 4 ^ V €^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4503 "'^" sat RAMBLES IN EUROPE weighs eight tons, i6 men being required to ring it. . The church contains some of Reuben's best pictures — the ' descent from the cross ' is protected by folding doors and only seen on special occasions, while a painting on the rotunda has an area of, ,300 feet. The choir (of carved wood) is snigularly fine, showing no end of patience and skill in cuaing, The pulpit is of similar make and is an extraordinary work, it appears 9. mass of foliage, supported by symbolical figures of Asia, Africa, America and Europe, with monkeys, birds and beasts skulking among the trees. Confessionals with life-size figures are also of carved vvood. The high altar is of marble, fairly ablaze with precious metals and surmounted by a gorgeous canopy. Dozens of life-size figures in carved wood are throughout the building. This grand old fane with the world's masterpiece of art, is closely built round by mean dwellings and shops, defeating the stranger's attempts at entrance. At first the spire leads him, but on nearer approach the whole disappears as by magic.) He goes round and round but fir.ds no grand portal, sees no Gothic windows, nothing but mean stalls of cobblers and hucksters. What has become of the pile that a minute ago stood forth in giant proportions? He retreats the way he came till the spire strikes his vision, takes sure aim and boldly advances; but as before, the temple has vanished. He tries a third time, sur- rounds the block as before, at last inquires for the Dom and is given directions. The church of 3t. Jacques has a square tower of good height. The pulpit and choir are of carved oak, the ceiling above them being very handsome. The high altar is gorgeous beyond des- cription, and above it an extremely gay figure of the Virgin. In the alterpiece (by R.eubens) the artist introduced pictures of himself, his two wives, his father, grandfather and son; as St, George, Martha, Mary, St. Jerome, time and an angel. Behind the high altar is Reubens' chapel, the painter's tomb shown by a slab in the pavement. The church has fine stained glass windows, and the 16 side chapels have pictures by old masters. Ant'verp has many other churches of note, besides museums and picture galleries. In one of these Reubens' ( hair is pre- served under glass cover. Here he was born in 1557, and here he died in 1640. What Burns is to Ayr, Reubens is to Antwerp — his works are reckoned at 1500. > About 500 years ago Antwerp was rated first commercial seat in Euiope, and one of its best fortified cities. But its prosperity received a check when captured by the Spaniards in 1585, .,,p THE NETHERLANDS 89 when its population was about double its present status. It was to Antwerp Tudor kings and queens were accustomci to send for money when the exchequer ran dry; and from it the first English Testaments (translated by Tyndal) were sent to London. The exchange of Antwerp (built in 1530) was the first of its kind, and formed a model for that of London and for a similar institution in Holland. Not far from Antwerp reside a peculiar set of monks called Trappists, who dress in sackcloth, shave their heads and never speak from time of entrance. Their food consists of coarse bread, milk and vegetables, all from their own tillage; and in the garden an open grave is always rc^dy for the next brother. Dogs are largely used for draft in Belgium and Holland. They don't appear of any special breed and few of them are above medium stature. The carts are heavy and clumsy, the wooii in them being nearly as heavy as in horse-carts with us. Their principal work is hauling milk and vegetables from the country and peddling rhem through the streets. They draw won- derful loads for their size, and when going up hills, run and yelp till the summit is reached. One morning at Antwerp I counted 68 teams on about 60 yards of street. They had brought from the country loads of vegetaules and eggs to market, and were all lying down on the curb as if greatly exhausted. Count- ing noses, there must have been at least 160 canines. The market businebS was run entirely by women, assisted by those faithful allies. Except for apparent meanness, the dog is (in a small way) a cheap and active motor. He requires no stable, is not liable by running away to cause damage, the iron-horse gives him no alarm, and with a pliant conscience, he gets most of his living by theft. In European countries dogs are required (when out on parade) to wear muzzles, to prevent their tasting one's legs on the street. From Antwerp to Brussels on June 22nd, distance 30 miles, scenery agricultural and pleasant. Htre is in brief what I saw along the track — clover fields and people mowing; next, fields of ripe barley; great slacks of brushwood, hound in faggots like shi^ves of grain; plantations of young oak and maple. Now the country is entirely under vegetables intended for city markets; then fields of rye and barley about ripe; next, plantations of maple, pine, oak and other trees; the countrj' dead level till nearing Brussels, the environs of which are quite hilly. This city is one of the finest in Europe, and reminds one of the French capital even without knowing that it is styled • little vv li ■ ! V:' • ^1 ftAMBLES IN EUROPE Paris.' The upper section has wide streets and handsome buildings, contains the king's palace, public offices, foreign legations and the abodes of wealth and fashion. Fine wooded parks are along the environs, and the old city walls have been levelled to form attractive promenades. The botanic gardens are an interesting feature, with extensive palmhouses for tropical plants. French is the ruling language and English is to a small extent spoken. The town is an active seat of manufac- ture, but of the carpets and lace that bear its name, the smaller number are made in Brussels. The cathedral is a massive old fane of dark-red sandstone, Gothic in style and dating from the 12th century. Its windows of stained glass are by some rated the finest in existence — Philip of Spain and his consort, queen Mary, represented among the figures. The pulpit of carved wood is highly curious, repre- senting the expulsion of the first pair — all the figures being of life stature. 'I'he tree of knowledge supports the de^k and among its branches birds and monkeys are seen at play. One of the side chapels is extremely fine and contains an altar of carved wood said to have cost $5000. All through the building are noted monuments and pictures. Some eight or ten other churches in the city are deserving of notice. The town hall ranks among famous buildings, 450 years old with spire 364 feet, rated among the world's finest steeples. The council chamber is really grand, with painted ceiling in high art. Here, the patriots, counts Egmont and Hoorn received sentence and on the square outside vere beheaded, June 5, 1568, an additional proof of the malignant nature of Philip and the equally infamous Alva. A splendid monument to the patriots stood here till remov- ed to another part of the city. The ballroom is also handsome, and some claim that on its oaken floor a memorable dance took place ' just before the battle.' But three o>:her sites claim the honor, whereas some contend that no such frolic took place — that the story is all moonshine. The palace of justice is a grand architectural effort; stands on a summit, covers more than three acres of ground, rises in terraces ending in a cupola about 260 feet from the base. The interior is supported by a dozen square pillars, 12 feet each side, and about 80 fluted columns 6 feet thick. Tesselab^d floors, great wide stairs of easy ascent, everything gran^fty massive. The smallest noise reverberates through the place |br seconds — indeed there is always a sound as of wind throi^ forest. The cost is given at $12,0,00,000. H^H ■I r: THE NETHERLANDS 91 Brussels has many other buildings of note. I'he king's palace, tho of plain exterior, is handsome inside. The ancient ducal palace is used for pui poses of art, and in the neighborhood is a royal palace, for sometime residence of Josephine, first wife of Bonaparte. The town is well supplied with picture galleries and museums. The natural history museum contains the skeleton of an extinct rejuile about 36 feet long, one-half being tail. The thigh bone of a dinosaurus is seven feet long, 52 inches round the larger end and about 36 round the middle. The animal when alive is thought to have been 60 feet, so the name (terrible lizard) was not misapplied. The vertebrae of an extinct lizard, found in the neighborhood, is about 52 feet, with some joints wanting. Models of moa eggs are 18 inches long and large in proportion, each weighing when fresh over 20 dozen from a barnyard biddy. The moa was a New Zealand bird, fossil remains of which were found over 50 years ago. It was thought to be extinct till in 1876 two specimens were captured — a female eight feet high and a young one about five. Tho scarcely equal to the ostrich in height, its bulk is much greater — as fossil bones have been found equal in size to the timbers of an ox. The antiquarian museum contains an inter- esting collection of arms and armor. Breech-loading cannon 300 years old, revolver nearly as ancient, stuffed skin of the horse Prince of Oraui^e rode at Austerlitz and Waterloo, armor and mantle of Montezuma, emperor of Mexico when taken by Cortez in 1520, model of the Bastile at Paris, and thousands of interesting objects. Brussels had a chequered history. In 1567 the tyranny of Alva drove away ten thousand mechanics who found a home and welcome in Britain, In 18 14 it became capital of the Netherlands, and in 1830 of Belgium when separated froE' Holland. A pillar 156 feet high on a commanding position (with statue of Leopold on top) commemorates that event. At the base are four bronze lions of immense proportions. On June 24 I paid a visit to Waterloo, about 12 miles south of Brussels. The intervening country is hilly — parts under rye, wheat and barley, parts sandy barren, then wood plantations and the forest ot Soignies. We quit the train (a party of us) three half miles from the scene — day hot, roads dusty, no fences, no hedges, so we make short cuts through fields of wheat, rye and buckwheat. The soil is light and sandy, gentle hills — no part level. Hugomont, on rising ground, was a gentleman's chateau, consisting of residence, farmhouse and outbuildings. li I • ■ g -i ■■ % a f 5^ RAM6L5S m Et/ROPR The farmhouse is occupied by an old lady who claims to have been three years old at time of the battle. The yard has two wells, one with iron windlass, chain and bucket, the other has no such appliance. It has not been used since the i8th of June, 77 years ago when it was kept unduly busy, and at night was filled with corpses. The yard was keenly contested, but was throughout held by the allies. Napoleon would have swapped a kingdom for that acre, as its possession might decide the l>attle and make him arbitrer of F^urope. To east of this were the garden and orchard, and south of these ran a wall of brick, said to have been taken by the French for British lines and to have been closely peppered. Opposite this on rising ground, a battery commanded by Napn^Ieon's brother, began the action. In the garden and orchard the struggle was hottest, changing frequently between the contending parties. The slain here were in heaps and the ground became a teeming bog with human gdre; Here 1500 were heaped into one trench — no wonder the wheat and clover grew rank for seasons after. For years suc- ceeding that dismal Sunday, grass and grain rose in luxuriant bunches over the wide area on which the battle coursed. Never was soil enriched at higher hgures. mi! It would be folly to attempt describing the various move- ments during the battle. It began at 1 1.30 and at 5 p. m. victory seemed to hold an even balance. About thi.s time the advanc- ing columns of Blucher began to appear, led by generals Bulow and Steinmitz. Napoleon seeing how matters stood, ordered an advance of the imperial guards to force the allied position. These were picked men whose rear no enemy saw in battle; but met by a storm of musketry and grape, they were thrown into confusion. Both commanders now prepared for final effort. Wellington advanced his whole line and the imperial guards were drawn up in squares to meet them. Seldom did a field contain braver troops than now peered over musket barrels, and the shock was furious — it was Greek meeting Greek in the fiercest manner. What the result would have been with no other assistance will remain always a problem. The Prussians had now taken position and attacking the French where most defenceless, all fled in a panic. Strange that the man called by some the world's greatest hero should first set spurs to his garran. Wellington followed a short distance, then returned to meet the intrepid 73-year-old Blucher, where had been the French center. No need of saying the meeting was cordial. This was about dusk — the battle having lasted seven hours. THE NETHERLANDS 93 \ I As to relative strength, authorities differ; the French of all arms are given at 72,000, with 246 cannon. The allies, variousl) irom 68,000 to 70,000 an«.. 156 cannon; the nunober of British troops are placed at 25,000, Dutch, Belgians and Ger- mans making up the balance. The French loss is put at 18,500, besides 7,800 prisoners and 227 cannon; allies 23,200, including 1 1 20 officers. On what was the British center stands ' the lion mound,' a pyramid of earth 140 feet high and 400 feet square at the bottom, its four grassy sides steep as an ordinary roof. On top is a granite pedestal, surmounted by a bronze lion, 24 tons in weight. The figure stands in a defiant attitude towards France, the highest point being near 200 feet above ground level. On a fine day the view from here is enchanting — no wild scenery, nothing but well-tilled, undulating country, stretching several miles in each direction. No scene could be more peaceful — not even a hostile canine stirred a vicious tongue and the barnyard sentinel gave friendly greeting. Thin columns of smoke 'rose from distant hamlets, and church spires here and there pierced the violet ether. Near the mound a modest inn supplies refreshments, and also shows an interesting collection of battle relics. Several monuments are scattered over the field, showing where some distinguished officers perished. In the church at Waterloo village, the names of British officers are engraved on* marble tablets, besides a marble bust of the commander-in-chief. At Mount St. Jean was buried the Marquis of Anglesey's leg, considered worthy of a tomb and flattering inscription. It is stated that in 182 1, even George IV. made a pilgrimage to this noted shrine. * Guides persistently offer help to the tourist — they describe situations and evolutions with as much cheek as if they had seen all in action. Their English may be bad, but they give good measure — they are not particular to facts so long as they can secure the money. Probably did the tourist engage half a score and make them repeat their story apart, there would be few points of contact. But this shows a family connection. Most of us put the largest berry on top and strain the truth when so doing leads to money advantage. i J', :|i I a ¥1 Now I am off for Liege and this is what I saw by the way- side. People mowing grass and binding in sheaves, probably for seed. Barley cut and in stook — soil yellow or drab. Next section all under grain, mostly rye, then continuous areas of X I' I: I 94 RAMBLES IN EUROPE ; a ilii grass or pasture — some parts overflowed by irrigation. The town of Louvain is here, formerly a noted old place, whose university was famous. Its town hall is about 450 years old and considered to surpass even that of Brussels. The place has old churches and pictures, besides manufactures of beer, flour and rye meal. At the station I counted a dozen cars loaded with oak bark for tanning. The country is now all under grain, rye taking the lead. Beautiful avenues frequent — also copper and weeping beech. Stacks thatched with great care — some hedges, also wire-fences. Trees and bushes seem to grow here with unusual vigor. The country from Brussels resembles a good deal parts of this province. Tirlemont has 13,000 people, once strongly fortified and of note in middle ages-. It has three ancient churches, one of them ten centuries old, with brass lectern, and a tower tall and striking. From here to Liege the country is undulating and well-tilled. Rye and wheat are the principal grain crops, generally so much broken that a sickle has to be used for cutting. Mangles are grown on large areas. Small firewood bound in fagots like sheaves, made into stacks and thatched like grain. Orchards are frequent — so are beautiful avenues. Numbers of women hoeing potatoes — six in one field, nine in another. Much of the soil in Belgium is the same color as in this province, but more sandy. » Liege is 55 miles from Brussels and has 140,000 people. Viewed from a height, the picturesque vale spreads out below and appears a forest of chimneys. The town is a straggling place on both sides of the Maas, crossed here by many bridges. Several of- its churches are old and interesting. The cathedral has fine stained glass windows besides statues 'and pictures. Near the door a sitting image of Christ rests on a pedestal and worshippers fervently kissed its foot as they passed on entering. An image of the Virgin is fairly dazzling with splendor. The high altar is very fine; and the pulpit of carved wood has marble statues. The treasury contains immense wealth in gold and silver; a gilt bust of St. Lambert alone is said to have cost $100,000. There is a reliquary of solid gold besides other things of rare value. The columns each side of the nave are covered by some red fabric, with a wreath of gold leaves wound spirally about them. I was in several other churches, but failed to take note of their contents. Liege is a live ne;.l of manufactures — leather, cloth jewelry, cutlery and cannon. Its make of firearms is said to almost rival those of Britain. Locomotives are also built, and I saw mma '"''V The krhose d and IS old r and i with >n, rye ;r and ledges, with )d deal once three brass the the :ge are ;kle has areas, stacks jeautiful ne Tie field, color people, ut below jtraggling f bridges, cathedral pictures, iestal and I entering, dor. The wood has th in gold have cost lides other ; nave are Lves wound irches, but )th jewelry, i to almost . and I saw GERMANY 95 some large ones lately finished. Mines of iron and coal are near the city. Verviers is not far off, where they demand an inside view of a person's satchel. The scenery for next 15 miles is extremely picturesque; on each side are wooded hills, while cross valleys open every few seconds. Some of the slopes are carefully tilled, showing a patchwork of various colors. The valley bottom is farmed in tiny bits, a beautiful road winds through in the crookedest fashion, a stream alongside (equally crooked) turns at intervals a mossy old wheel in the laziest manner. Wild flowers are growing in damp places, old hamlets are frequent, each with its church equally ancient. Then a clear lakelet in which hillsides are shown in the most perfect manner — indeed it seems formed for that very purpose. But the rose has its thorn, the sunshine its shadow; whenever the tourist is in ecstacies over some choice view the train dives into a tunnel. Teeth are ground and hard words are smothered, but all is serene when the train shoots out into sunshine, with a yet finer outlook. Few roads I would sooner travel than the crooked, auger-hole in question. It has a dozen tunnels in as many miles and was extrenely expensive to open. GERMANY. We are now in Varerland, easily known by the uniform of railway people. The country looks like part of England, tho not so tidy in culture. June 26th and haymaking about finished. Aix (German, Aachen) is only a short way from the Belgic frontier. Its French name (Aix la Chapelle) means water or spring of the chapel, and was given on account of sulphur springs for which the place is always noted. The situation is peculiar. Fancy a round valley like a saucer, eight miles from rim to rim; in the center rises abruptly an o^-^al hill some four miles round at bottom and perhaps 250 feet in height. The valley is open to south-east and here the town is placed. Except on this side the hill from base to crown is thickly wooded — beech, spruce, pine and other forest. A road ascends spirally from bottom, beside paths in all directions. Along the slope to east are beer gardens and gay trinkhalls, with scores of flags sporting in the breeze and German bands loudly crashing. It is a gay festive place in afternoons, when city swells attend and performances are given. A handsome church stands on a spur, lower down to east. The view from various points on top is quite attractive. To west a vegetable patch vvork spreads before the vision — well-tilled area of fields not separated by 111 i I i-i 96 RAMDLES FN EUROPS hedge or fences. To north the outlook is more varied — rows and avenues of trees, patches of green forest, fields of grain and roots enclosed by hedges, fine residences embowered in trees, roads, churches, factories with tall chimneys. The cathedral is considered the oldest fane in (iermany, part of it being a chapel from which the town gets its name. It was erected by Charlemagne about the year 800 and was consecrated with lordly pomp by Leo III. Under a brazen chandelier is a marble slab inscribed * Carolo Magno,' denoting the conqueror'.% tomb. Some three centuries after his death the grave was opened, when the remains were found in good condition; the body was seated on a marble chair, dressed in state robes, scepter in hand, with copy of the gospels before him. The tomb was built up, but was again opened. In 1215 the remains were transferred to a costly chest, yet preserved in the sacristy. The marble chair was used for coronation of German emperors till 1558, and can now be seen for a trifle. The cathedral has fine stained glass and a wonderful pulpit, magnificent with ivory carvings, jewels and gold. This remarkable work was a gift from Henry II. of France. The church contains many images and crucifixes — an image of the Virgin looks as if solid gold. In the sacristy are the greater and lesser relics; the former being the dress worn by Mary at the nativity, swaddling clothes of the 'nfant Saviour, cloth on which the head of John Baptist was laid, scarf worn by our Lord at crucifixion. These are shown once in seven years — the next occasion being 1895. The silver shrine enclosing them is a marvellous work of art, a thousand years in existence. The lesser relics are — the leather girdle of Christ, sponge used at the crucifixion, portions of the cross, girdle of the Virgin, lock of her hair, bits of Aaron's rod. These can be seen any time on paying a dollar. The skull, arm-bone, and hunting-horn of Charlemagne can also be seen. Besides these, the sacristy contains a vast collection of things in costly stones and precious metals. There was appearance of great devotion among the worshippers and dense clouds of incense at times obscured proceedings. The Germans are extremely religious, judging by the frequency one sees images of the Virgin, and of saints on corners of houses, at street crossings, on hilltops, along roads, in vineyards and almost everywhere. The rath-haus (city hall) is interesting from the meetings of international congress that were held there. The original struc- ture dates from 1360, but has been restored later. The main hall is quite handsome, with painted ceiling and groined arches. GKRMANY 9t A fine picture represents the coronation ot" Charlemagne in St. Peters at Rome; another portrays his marriage in the same temple. There are besides, pictures of Maria Theresa, Napoleon and Josephine, besides a fine painting on glass of the late emperor William. Aix acquired celebrity from being (in 74a) the birth-place of Charlemagne; and here in 814 he was gathered home to his people. In his day and generation he gave laws to nearly the whole of Europe; and during the next seven centuries 48 of his successes were crowned in the hall just mentioned. In Roman times the place derived fame from sulphur springs, which to this day attract many. The buildings over them are quite handsome and have large waiting-rooms free to all. From 7 to 8 a. m. a band plays in a shady garden in rear, where visitors can recline on easy seals, enjoy the music and drink the nauseous stuff — handed round by German lassies. These establishments are supplied with baths for the cure of ailments, and one often sees men carrying on a litt6r n, bunch of something under covers. This is an invalid going out for morning cooking. Swarms of these' stout carriers are con- nected with every water-cihre factory. The Germans are spoken of as a nation of soldiers and it is not strange to find military rule in their social economy. This is particularly noticed about railways where the amount of precision is by no means pleasant. Things appear adjusted by some master genius to be as much as possible inconvenient. His ticket secured after some trouble, the passenger enters the place of waiting, the door is locked with a bang and windows are frosted to prevent any pleasure from looking. Here one may as well fancy himself a package of wares to be moved according to label and ticket. On approach of a train, doors are opened, but on the platform one must keep a certain spot according to the class of his billet. To a person from our free and easy land, these bugle and gun regulations are apt to feel irksome. The country between here and Cologne is commonplace — distance 65 miles. The soil is rather light and crops inferior. A town or two and a good many villages are passed. No fences along roads, no division of fields, considerable areas of forest. Cologne (German, Koln) stands on left of the Rhine, here over a quarter mile in width. The site is perfectly level and till within a dozen years the city was fortified with ramparts and dyke, seven miles in circuit. The river is crossed by a bridge of boats and a railway bridge high enough to allow V ill It .1 ; 9t RAMBLES IN EUROPE vessels to pass under. Through the fonnci' .« passage is effected by moving two boats out of position, the bridge being im- passable the few minutes required for the operation. Great rafts frequently pass down river, some about a quarter mile long, with houses and families; while extended clothes-line with fluttering outfit imparts a festive appearance to the scene. Its cathedral is the pride and glory of the city, which as a piece of Gothic architecture is claimed to hold first place in Europe. Local history says it was founded over 600 years ago; but work on it was intermittent and after some two centuries of tardy progress, was entirely stopped. For the next 300 years time, with its small keen tooth was the only workman. During the French revolution the unfinished house was used for storage of fodder and purposes equally menial. About 76 years ago work on the pile was resumed to good purpose, and continued till completion in 1880. It was than opened with vast eclat in presence of the late emperor William. I have small idea of the entire cost, but the restorations this centur}' may be placed at about 3»^ million dolfers. The dimensions given are, length 510 feet; width, 150 (across the transept 250); height of ceiling in nave to point of arches, 160 feet; width of nave 60 feet, with four aisles, each 30 feet wide and 60 in heigh\ The roof is supported by 60 great clustered columns, the size of which most readers would be disposed *:o question. Then fancy a ceiling the highest point pf which is reached by only the tallest of our church-spires! The south facade is a marvel of sculpture, open- work and figures, 230 feet high and said to have cost over a half million Canadian money. The central spire is over 350 feet, the two end towers 500 feet, surpassing everything in the form of steeple. On the outside are said to be about 5000 spires, pinnacles and statues. The stained glass windows are extremely gor^jeous, some of them being the gift of kings. The choir is of carved wood, 15th century work. Life-size figures of Christ, the Virgin, the apostles and many others are in various parts. In the north transept I noticed a group of about a dozen men and women, standing round an image of Christ after being taken down — all fuP-size, apparently of wax and very life-like. When fully completed, the interior will contain 726 life-size figures of saints. The sacristy contains much wealth in articles of gold, silver and precious stones. The skulls of ' the three wise men ' are among the lot, but only the backs shown, which are studded with jewels. There are great croziers, crucifixes and crosses of silver and big chalices of gold. One massive r.KRMAMY . • "9f) church service was presented by Napoleon I., ' ho no doubt stole it from another communion. Besides *he cathedral the town has other churches deserving of notice. The church of St. Ursula is dedicated to that saint together with 11,000 virgins who accompanied her to Rome as pilgrims. The interior is decorated witn their bones and the sacristy has mottoes and devices of like materials. A jai said to have been u.sed at the Cana marriage is also among the treasures. The town hall dates from tne 13th century, but its beautiful portal was a later addition. One of its rooms is completely lined with leather. In the picture gallery works are arranged in schools, dating back 450 years. Old-time artists confined them- selves to portrayal of angels, saints and madonnas, all creations of fancy. The gallery contains some lovely pictures of recent date, and also paintings on glass which appeared to my untu- tcred eye perfection. But unless one has some knowledge of •art' it is not safe to offer opinion; yet when I see a glorious landscape that strikes me as perfect, I confess a preference over some repulsive old thing that took half a millenium of years to season its colors. The city has zoological and botanic gardens outside the old ramparts, and there are fine promenades along the environs. A colossal equestrian statue of P'rederic William is on one of the markets, the pedestal surrounded by subsidiary groups of warriors and statesmen. There is also a noble equestrian statue at each end of the railway bridge noticed already. At 5 a. m. church bells call people to mntins, and at tl at young hour I saw a religious procession, led by i bare-headed ecclesiastic, making straight for the Dom. The bells have a fine soft voice, and at 6 p. m. when all are ringing together the effect is grand beyond description. The air seems a mass of sound in which one exists as does a fish in water. The Jargest bell in the cathedral weighs 25 tons, from which the reader may infer the grave majesty of its utterance. ■ t^ . I I ! The Rhine 'begins its career in Switzerland some 2000 feet above sea-level; its whole length is about 800 miles, navigable four-fifth of that distance. Tho only fourth among European rivers, it stands first in respect to commerce; over 100 steamers glide on its stream, carrying yearly a million persons. The section between Bonn and Mayence is about 100 miles long, the general direction north-west. Its breadth varies from a quarter-mile at Basel to a half-mile where it enters Holland. ^-..^._.y i)ouse-maids and boarders, shaking napkins at steamers when they j)ass near the shore. .\ railway track is on each side ai\(' tniins are con- tiniuilly rushing by i>nd disappearing in tunnels. From Cologne a dozen miles up stream brings to Bonn, a small place of 33,000, but not void of fame, as Christianity was established in the first century while in ihe fourth a church was reared wh re now stands the cathedral. Of late Bonn is noted for a university which ranks higl; among educational centers. The place has a good museum, natural history collection and a long double avenue of great horse chestnuts, with fountains and statues. Bethooven the distinguished composer, was horn here in 1770, and a tine statue of him graces the lvlini:ter Ptp.tz, At Bonn the picturesque part of the Rhine commences and the seven mountains soon appear on the left. Drachenfels, tho not the highest, is the most noted and tourists asc^jnd from Kon- igswinter, a lovely small [)lace at its feet. In clear weather the view is enchanting — on one side dark wooded hills pitched about like billows of ocean; on the other a deep sunken furrow in which meanders the Rhine. Opposite is Rolandseck, a lovely hamlet nestling among forest. A single arch is all that remains of its castle, which '.lowever is stable enough to anchor this legend: About n t^entury before the reign of good and great king Alfred, there graced the court of Charlemagne a knight named Roland. Being a reckless citizen and having no blood-shed on hand just then, he started along the Rhine for adventure. On the first evening out he became entangled in darkness and claimed a night's rest at Drachenberg. Knight \ ORRMAWV let Hcribul was ii gctuToiis houI and cnicrtuincd him vastly. They Nat late over their diHhcN and imiiibcd hirgcly the juice of the vine. Knight licribiii had a daughter of HurpaKHing beauty — a choinc |»rairie llowcr with ni.iny attractions. Roland wan next Jiiy introdiK.cd, .nu' like a brave knight feHj*roHtrate before thin vision of beauty aful slayer of hearts, hy slow degrceii he recovered his <;o(.!(»eKs, njade overtures and be<:«nie the acknow^ ledged beau of Ilildcginid. Klysian days were .spent in picnics .ind inocn-lighl exitirsions by night. IJui this was too good to lasll as word c.anH: that the M<»ors were raising a ?e after, a funeral passed. Instinct informed him that Hiidegund was cold in the cr)ffin and * he never smiled again.' Still he continued his daily vigils, and one cold dark eve in autumn, when day was merging into darkness and the wind moaning dismally thiough the arch, his esquire found him as usual sitting with eyes intent on the tomb of his treasure. He reminded his master that night was at hand and a wild siorm ajjproaching. No answer came — the spirit of Roland had ttcd. Hills both sides i/ the Rhine are closely terraced and planted with viiie. .Several villages of varied attractions are passed, and 1 bring up at Remagen, a small town on the river bank, near which are the famed Apcllinaries spring-. During my stay hcc some k'nd of religious festival came off, the main features of which I will narrate. The route of proceesicn was made into an avenue of beautiful green by younj, beeches and maple tero' jiorarily jilanted a few feet apart. Green leaves were strewn * * v '<] ■'■'fflfl ;ll J03 RAMULKS IN EUROPK along the street and over that flowers. Every house had gay flags hung wherever they would draw most attention; so that Remagen looked like a fairy young city. About ten, a terrible racket of bells and firing of cannon intimated the procession had started. First ajipeared a company of boys with banners, one bearing aloft a crucifix in advance of the rest. Next a company of smaller boys, with light-blue sashes, each with a bell, he incessantly rung. Then a company of small, fairhaired girls in white, with sashes and tiaras of blue, each carrying a banneret with picture of Christ, the Virgin or agnus Vai. Next a com- pany of young v;omen in white, with veils covering the person from head to foot. Then followed a rich canopy supported by four persons, and u^ider it walked an ecclesiastic in gorgeous vestments. Lighted candles were borne on each side, censers were sv/ung and clouds of incense ascended; then a brass band, more banners, followed by the congregation. A choir sang and the band played at intervals; others v/ere repeating (and some responding to) a sort of litany. The procession doubled round an artificial grove and after a pause, retraced its steps. Church bells rang violently at intervals during the march, and the barking of a gun gave martial tone to proceedings. The whole business ended by twelve, the afternoon being spent in whatever enjoyment most suited each person Canvas booths were numerous on the square, in which were sold wine, beer, candy, fire-crackers and sudi goods as were most in demand. A horse- swing and shooting gallery were important features, and fire- cracicers afforded their full quota of noise. The long afternoon passed in uproarious frolic — a tea-meeting, circus and picnic in one. When day grew faint other lights were produced and festivities went on unhindered. At 4 a. m. I woke but little refreshed, for along with outside noises a band played indoors most of the night. The horse-swing had ceased its doleful rythm, but the shooting went on. Small boys were industriously gleaning stray fire-crackers that escaped unhurt. Half-drunken youiig fellows were staggering about in groups, bawling, shout- ing and pulling to jiieces the deserted booths. It was a dvll, calm, Sunday morning; church hells were already calling to matins, and in the dim light I could discern a few worship- pers flitting past and others rounding the steep ascent to St. Apo'linarie';. This is onsidered a gem of Gothic architecture, and its four tall spire and numerous pinnacles are a wonder of elaborate work, 'liie inside is no less ornate and the church stands on f.ERMANV ' 1^3 f, I I 1; = i : face of hill a half mile from the town. Besides the 14 stations, the grounds are peopled with statues and figures of saints. Three or four chapels built of volcanic stone in small pieces, with figures and mottoes in mosaic. One of them is really marvellous as work of art, showing patience and skill on part of the monks. In these chapels are altars and life-size figures of Christ and the Virgin; and in one of several grottos Christ is represented lying in the tomb. On a high spur above stands a heroic statue of some saint. From this hill one obtains a good view of the Rhine valley, its bottom cultivated in narrow strips of different grain, like webs of cloth spread out to dry. 1 counted seven town.i and hamlets from this point of vantage. The Ahr valley near Remagan is very picturesque and much frequented by tourists. Here villages are seen looking old .ts the tiood, vvith protective ramparts yet standing. Much lovely scenery is passed before reaching Andernach. Hills are densely wooded or terraced and clothed with vine. The shore in places presents a continuous line of hotels, or villages nestling among trees and leaning against mountains; luined castles on face of hills, or recklessly perched on top. Picturesque old churches with the wrinkles of untold centuries engraved on their features. Andernach is a small town of big antiquity, said to occupy the site of a Roman camp: and we are told that here Julius Caesar built a wooden bridge across the river. Large sections of the old ramparts yet remain, about 30 feet high and a dozen thick in places. A tall watch tower stands at the town limit, and high up its side is a huge gap made in 1688 by French cannon. The church presents a striking appearance with four towers and spires, while inside are some good carvings ©i frescoes. The pulpit of carved wood is a work of some interest. The church was profusely set off vvith gay flags and green bushes at time of my visit. A gallery runs along three sides for the male worshippers, the females sitting below — a common arrangement in that section of country. A high wooded hill at edge of the town is furnished with hotels, beer-gardens and trinkhalls, besides an observation tower, com- manding a grand view of the Rhine valley. Millstones quarried near Andernach are widely noted, as also a cement made from volcanic tufa. Nearly opposite is the modern town of Neuweid witn about 12,000 people. It is a clean handsome place with appearance of prosperity — beautiful surroundings, lovely parks, delightful avenues of limes and poi)lar. The town was fairly ablaze with ( ^i C i;! W 11' I i N ailMgaitiMai*riirfir'i»'«rririiiat»iiiiiaiiii i\ 104 RAMBLES fN EUROPE flags on account of some church festivity; and ihe appearance of many thousand gay streamers waving and dashing aloft on a breezy day is to say the least striking. Every family must keep about a score of Hags in camphor to sport aloft on festive occasions. The Moravian brethren have a settlement at Neuweid, helping much to draw visitors to the place. From here to Coblentz (over a dozen miles) the valley is several miles broad; and judging by the frequency of hamlet and village the population must be dense. For some miles along the left bank, large areas were i)iled high with cream-colored brick. Several islands are here passed, one of them two miles in length. A village along here is inhabited almost entirely by raftsmen, who out of small rafts from the upper Rhine and Moselle form those huge platforms one meets floating down stream. Coblentz stands on the left bank at confluence of the Moselle and Rhine, and was on that account named by the Romans Confluens, from which the present name was sculptured. The town is capital of Rhenish Prussia, and has about 50,000 people. The site rises gradually from the river and ends in a wooded hill in the face of which is a strong fort. On top is a wide plateau used for military evolutions, and on which were encamped in 1870-71 about 14,000 F'rench troops taken in the Franco-Prussian war. Another fort commands the Moselle valley, and from a strategic point the town is safe from an enemy's cannon. About ^500 troops are usually kept hereon garrison duty. Advancing along the plateau aforesaid I noticed the par- over the citadel shut in by a high wall, a fosse outside and a fine gateway spanning the entrance. Bridge down, gate open, no sentinel on duty and I advanced. The enclosure was a real gem of a place with shade trees and seats inside the wall along the crest. The view from here was magnificent; so I sat and began to jot down my impressions. Thus occupied I failed to notice two soldiers till within a few paces; they began to talk German excitedly and motioned that I must leave. I pointed along the river, then to what I had written to make them under- stand I was only a pleasure-hunter. I then walked away, one of them accompanied me past the gate. I scolded vigoriously all the time in English, telling the fellow that if strangers were forbidden a sentinel should be on duty. But being in their own land I showed no active resentment. Foil Ehrenbreitstein is on a rocky eminence 400 feet above the river,, opposite Coblentz and next to Gibraltar, considered the t .f-:^ ' "";9s '''W -' OERMAMY :. »«>5 Strongest in Europe. The approach landwards (its weakesi point) is defended by three lines of redoubts, mounting 400 brass cannon. Shortly after the rebuff mentioned I was rambling among these, when two men who were trimming the glacis, informed me by signs that strangers were not admitted. The site of this renowned fort was fomerly a Roman camp, and was blockaded several times in the expiring years of last century. In 1797 it was held by General Hoche till the peace of Leoben; next year the French again reduced it by famine, and on being given up in 1801, ihey blew up the defences. Since 18 14 enormous sums were spent by Prussia on reconstruction, and it is now secure against invasion. The fortress has a well 580 feet in depth, and under the summit platform (used as parade ground) are cisterns containing water enough to supply the garrison for three years if needed. The garrison strength is usually about 2250. From the hill above the citadel a fine view is obtained — rural landscape, areas of forest, vine-clad hills, towns, villages and homesteads. At foot of citadel hill a small town stands by the river, and back of it a cemetery lies in a valley. Here are two large stone crucifix, the image on one of them covered with gold-leaf and glittering most superbly in the sunshine. Nearly all the headstones have figures of Christ from six inches long, most of them gilt and looking like solid gold. Coblentz has numerous churches, some of great age and much interest. St. Castor's is near the bridge crossing the Moselle, and in front stands a fountain erected to commemorate the campaign in 181 2 for the conquest of Russia. It was set up before the expedition started, an inscription recording the Muscovite conquest. Before spring the rags of Napoleon's army we.e chased from the north, and a Russian general, on taking Coblentz and seeing the boastful inscription, added beneath — ' Seen and approved by the Russian commandant, Jan. I St, 1 8 14.' The affair shows alike French pride, and the folly of shouting before leaving the wood. The Rhine is crossed in front of the town by a bridge of boats and by a railway bridge farther up river; the Moselle is crossed near its mouth by a fine bridge of 14 arches, about 500 years old. The Rhine promenade is a lovely park along the river to south of the town. It is indeed difficult to conceive any spot with a greater variety of attractions. As at Neuweid, the town was in a fairy flutter with thousands of gay-colored flags, perhaps in honor of the musical tornado yet to mention. Some of the beer-gardens are really fine in their appointments — III ■' fi 1 !; i \l M ■ic6 RAMBLES IN EUROPE shade trees, showy flags and excellent bands of music. In cruising about the city, I noticed streets not over two yards wide, yet clean and free from ill odor. "-^ . -: :. , 1 ! it ii 108 . . ■ V. RAMDLES IN EUROPE arily it lies under the high altar, mass being said daily over it. Previous to 1891, it was last shown in 1844, when a million pilgrims (it is said) visited the shrine. Readers were last year so well informed about the relic that nothing further need be said. As to its being the real tunic worn by the Saviour, it may not be our place to offer opinion; but apart from there being other coats laying claim to equal sanctity, there are so many peurile legends connected as to stagger one's faith unless it be without limit. Again, it seems evident that no kind of fabric could hold together 3000 years without miracle; and a miracle would keep the garment good as new, whereas it was dropping to pieces and had to be pasted in tiny bits on other cloth. Judging from the colossal Virgin image mentioned and the frequency of images above doors and on corners of houses, the Treveri are devout beyond measure. A large stone crucifix stands on one of the bridges, and people in passing bowed low and crossed themselves. I noticed a singular custom here among women of the working class — that of wearing creels on their backs. I say wearing advisedly, for in most instances the receptacle was empty and seemed to be carried as set-off to the person. Even little girls scarcely of school age wore creels proportioned to their stature. They are made of willow twigs and hold three to four pecks; the flat side against the person runs up in a kind of shield above the head. Creels are not rare in other countries, but not more than a tenth as fashionable as at Treves. .; The Moselle is extremely crooked, making 150 miles in a crow-line of about 60. In one place a walk of three miles saves 18 miles of river— almost equal to the Forth links between Edinburg and Stirling. The scenery along it is charming and about 60 villages are passed en route, the larigest with 2500 persons, the smallest a mere hamlet. Castles and towers, in various states of decay, are dangerously perched on heights above the river. Two of these formerly belonged to the Metternich family, one of the noblest in the country. One old village is pointed out that contains a ruined palace which belonged to emperor Constantine some 1500 years ago. Another village obtains notoriety from having (60 years ago) been inundated by water and ice to a depth of 30 feet. Diebelich was reckoned a noted meeting-place of witches four centuries ago, and it is stated 2 5 of these broom-flyers were here cremated at one slap. At one village about a dozen tall chimneys, shooting black smoke into the azure, announce the existence of GERMANY ro9 iron-works. The country roads are excellent, generally running along each side the river, and often shaded by avenues of poplar and limes. Hills where suitably exposed are terraced and clothed with vine; I counted 26 terraces in places. Orchards are plenty, and sometimes fruit trees and grain are in friendly union on the same spot; while hamlets are often seen nestling lovingly among fruit trees. As on the Rhine lateral valleys are frequent, giving splendid peeps into the country each side. At one place 54 cars rushed out of a hillside as we passed — the train no doubt over half mile long. Nearing Coblentz a turn of the river forms a grand amphitheater seldom surpassed. A village of hotels stands close to the water, while castle ruins crown the heights. Right across the stream is an old-fashioned village smothered in fruit trees — the spire o"" its ancient temple rising above. Many tourists abide in this spot and a larger boat is used between it and Coblentz. Chapels with image of the Virgin are thick along the Moselle — by the roadside, on river banks, on hill tops, in vineyards and grainfields. Women are everywhere at field-work — mowing, reaping, chopping wood, carrying great loads of grain or hay, rowing boats, driving ox- teams and washing clothes in the river. They are seldom with- out a creel, unless laden with something else. They make no attempt at shading their faces, and so are tanned brown as our micmacs. The worst kind of labor seems to have fallen to them in life's inequal division. Coblentz is reached about sunset, the run down from Treves taking 1 2 hours. When leaving Coblentz next morning the porter reminded me the day was July 4th. He was a stout burly Prussian who had been through the U. S. rebellion and seemed to entertain good feelings towards the American people. In case some reader may suppose the hotel porter is one who carries trunks and valises, let me say that the functionary in question largely runs the business, and wears gold-lace on cap and vesiure; he may stand before kings — he standeth not before mean men. For a miie or two after leaving Coblentz, hotels in single file extend between the river and hills. Many of them are beauti- fully surrounded with trees, having lawns in front down to the water. Not far off the Lahn enters from east and a few miles up, stands one of the most picturesque watering-places in the country — Ems, in July and August a busy hive of pleasure seekers. We now pass the restored castle of Stolzenfels, very handsome with white towers and turrets rising above the green forest. It belongs to the royal family of Prussia. A little ii I V i I ) v. 't)^ 1 i 1 1 H 110 RAMBLES IN EUROPI farther, the Rhine makes a violent turn westward, almost bending double, and after a few miles it turns yet more sharply back. On passing the turn, Boppard is on the left — a good spot to enjoy pleasant scenery. Next we are at St. Goar, with cas- tle Rheinfels (considered . the most extensive ruin along the river) rising grandly at back of the village. [At St. Goar the voyager who looks sharply will notice a pine tree growing on the topmost turret] In 1692 the place was attacked by 24,000 French who were bravely resisted by general Gortz. The French general (Tallard) had promised the castle to Louis XIV. as new year present; but the brave Hessian had a word to say and he spoke it with cannon. On a point farther along are the Lurley rocks, 450 feet high and opposite, a dangerous whirlpool. Formerly a fine echo was returned, which legend-makers trans- formed into a syren who gave forth a song to lure mariners to destruction, Few legends are so well-founded, for boatmen in passing generally stopped to rouse the echo, when at once the whirlpool had them. Oberwesel a few miles farther is one of the most attractive spots on the river. We now pass a curious erection on a rock in mid-stream, the lower part resembling a fort. Centuries ago it was a toll-house; at present it is a curiosity and nothing else. Castle Sonneck, like Stolzenfels, belongs to the royal house of Prussia. It is very handsome with flags, towers and turrets. Soon a slight and rather showy tower is passed in mid-stream, known in former times as the mauthsthurm (custom house), afterwards corrupted into mause- thurm (mouse tower). A legend connected with it, the poet Southey put into verse, familar to most readers. From Coblentz this far is no doubt the most interesting part of the river. The stream is very crooked and frequently not over 200 yards wide; wooded hills rise abruptly from the water and old cnstles are numerous as one could wish. Deep lateral valleys disclose unlooked-for beauties, village and hamlets nestling among trees or basking in sunshine — others leaning back against steep hill- sides and drawing in their fore-feet to keep out of the river. Soon after passing the • mouse tower,' the Nahe comes in from the west, about 60 yards wide and navigable for small steamers. On the angle between the Nahe and Rhine, on rising ground facing north, stands Bingen, with narrow, ill-kept streets and slatternly look. The chief occupation of its 6000 people is wine manufacture, this being the principal wine district. Here I saw a large area piled nine feet high with vine stakes or props. They are split quite small, four to six feet long and bound in ^^- •> GERMANY lit bundles of 25 stakes. On the hill face opposite Bingen I counted 30 terraces from the river. The top is heavily wooded, forming a kind of park with walks, drives and restaurants. On upper face of the hill, between vineyards and forest, stands the national monument, Germania, erected in 1883 to commemorate the success of German arms against the French. The pedestal is about 80 feet high, 60 feet square at base, surmounted by a figure representing Fatherland, the whole thing being perhaps 120 feet in height. At the bottom are figures of victory, with wings outstretched. All the castings are of bronze and finely executed. The monument cost over a quarter million dollars and was unveiled on September 28, 1883. ^'^e deed placed in the archives contains the following patriotic words — ' Stand all united to the emperor and empire. Germany, Germany above everything! ' A band plays at foot of the monument on summer afternoons. Like the bronze lion on field of Waterloo, Ger- mania faces towards France as if looking defiance at that people. One can forgive this apparent bravado, for when Germany was feeble and disunited France lost no opportunity to insult, humble and ravage that country. Spain and France had their day and remorseless tyrants they proved themselves. History records few parallels to the ruthless barbarism, destruction and pillage inflicted by Gaul in centuries past; whereas nothing in the annals of war, defeat and surrender equals the national disgrace and humiliation suffered by France in the late contest. In August 1870 a French army (under marshal MacMahon), advancing to relieve Metz, was encountered at Sedan by the Prussians, and after three days fighting, were compelled to enter the city. On September 2nd the whole division of 84,000, together with marshal and officers laid down their arms. The French emperor had already surrendered to the Prussian king in person. Not quite a month later a French army of 173,000 three marshals and 6000 officers became prisoners of war to the Germans. War materials to the value of $15,000,000 fell into the enemy's hands, including 800 guns, 85 batteries, 66 mitrail- leuse, 300,000 rifles, besides a vast quantity of other stuff". Nothing in modern warfare approaches this catastrophe — noth- ing in authentic history equals it in national disgrace. France always desired to have the Rhine for its east frontier, and it raised the late quarrel with a view of attaining that end. But Germany took another view of the matter; so that besides the loss of men, one act of imperial pomp, one flourish of Napoleon's pen cost France several thousand horse-loads of sovereigns. ^11 i i. . I MUlMIUHiiiia TI2 RAMBT.ES IN EUROPE ^ Below the monument and near the water is Rudesheim, a clea.i prosperous place with 4000 people. In the morning j's the clock announced seven, teachers and children passed to school. All were clean, looked healthy and were dressed alike. The teachers marched ahead, followed by the boys in military fashion; the girls came next, equally trim and well-dressed. The town has an old castle formerly owned by a knight of whom this legend is related. Sir knight set out for the holy wars with many others, and when cornered tightly in battle he vowed if his life were spared his daughter would enter a convent. On his return he related the conditions to his daughter. She listened motionless as a Minerva in plaster — she had a new beau and refused entirely to act out the scripture damsel. To enter a lone musty cloister was far from her thoughts as to enter a madhouse. The foolish old knight was determined to make good his promise — she was equally firm against it. One night after a violent discussion, she arrayed in her best and leaped from a tall tower into the river. The foolish knight was frantic; and her lover, after pining for a day — recovered. So ends the legend respecting that faithful, blue-eyed daughter of the Rhine. A few words here in reference to grape culture. The plant needs but little soil and matures best on stony hillsides facing the south and east. Hills too steep are formed into steps, or terraces — the perpendicular wall from ten to twelve feet high, the level part broad or narrow according to slope. The walls are well built, with at intervals a flight of steps to the next terrace. I counted over 30 terraces on the hills opposite to Bingen. There are many varieties of grape, but the kind used in thia section is from four to six feet high and looks a good deal like pole beans in youth. When the plant is a few inches high, a stake is driven alongside to which it is fastened with rye- straw, the process being repeated as often as needed. A certain kind looks like hops and is trained on horizontal sticks five or six feet from the ground. The company of weeds is not allowed, and when the plants are well grown a vineyard alive with youth and maidens, weeding and tying the plants is an interesting sight. Grapes I examined on July 4th were from the size of wheat to that of small cherries; they grow rapidly in July and August. The Romans introduced vine-culture into this section and it has ever since been continued. From Bingen to Mayence the river has many islands, well grown with bushes. The ground each side is flat, in places below water level. It is well farmed, and judging by the UKRMANY 113 frequency of towns, thickly peopled. Johanisberg castle stands on a knoll in the center of vineyards — the 40 acres of domain realizing yearly about $20,000. The castle was for some years a residence of the Metternich family. Biberich is a small place a short distance from May once, with a grand old palace, delight- ful walks and gardens. From here three miles inland is Wies- baden, a lovely watering-place of 50,000 people. The mineral springs are at the edge of a wooded park with walks, drives, small lakes with smaller islands in them. The kursall is large and finally appointed; the chief hall 130x60 feet, with marble columns supporting the galleries. There are besides a ball- room, banquet hall, reading and gaming rooms, all furnished in grand style. In front is a magnificent flower garden and at each end A fountain shooting up water. From 7 to 8 a. m. and late in afternoons a band plays in a delightful spot behind the build- ings; and while listening to the music /isitors can recline on shady seats or wander among the untold beauties of the place. Few spots offer greater variety of enjoyments than Wiesbaden. The town has a good museum of Roman antiquities, natural history collection and library with treasures of ancient lore. The Protestant church is a beautiful erection of polished brick with five elegant towers. In front of the Catholic church stands a monument to soldiers from Nassau who fell at Waterloo. There are several other fine churches of red sandstone, found in the district. Owing to the number of English tourists a service in that language is conducted in summer. The new town hall is magnificent and costly for so small a place — great pillars of variegated marble, grand stairs of easy ascent, with balustri-des of costly stone. A few miles bring to Mayence, on left of the Rhl^e, with about 70,000 people. Here the Main enters the larger stream from east, after a winding course of 300 miles. Mayence was a Roman fortress in old time, and abounds with relics and tradi- tions of the past. Roman legions under Constantine were encamped here and Christianity was early introduced. During the revolution it was ceded to France, but was restored to Fatherland in 1814. The Rhine is here crossed by a bridge of boats 600 yards long and also by a handsome iron structure of recent date. Charlemagne built a bridge here 1 1 centuries ago and numbers of the oaken piles (20 to 30 feet long and shod with iron) were lately recovered — both iron and wood apparently sound ac; ever. The museum is wonderfully rich in Roman remains of every kind. M 'J i ^1^ "4 KAMUI.RS .N KUKOPE . ,>, Mnycncc is a plare of gretit military strength. The citadel on a hill DvcriooKing the town, rould with its heavy guns sink anything that eaiuc by water. l\y land the place is surrounded by formidable earthworks, inside of which rise some 30 feet, masonry walls which no cannon could |)ierce. f am unable to tell the number of troops in garrison, but soldiers are met at every turn. A handsome building of pres.sed bri<'k near the citadel, al out 600x60 feet and four sioreys high, i judged to be officers quarters. In another part a parade ground of some 40 acres is flanked by a barrack about 900 feet long and three storeys high. A n'unber of p.ew builtlings were being erected, one apparently for troops looked to be i?oo feet long and three stoieys in height. The cathedral is an impf)sing old structiue, but surrounded by me \t\ houses. It was six times partly destroyed by fire, bombanled and sacked on other occasions, and during Napoleon's mad career used as barracks. It is surmounted by a fuie dome and several towers, one 320 feet in height. It has 14 altars and 20 minor chapels; a pulpit of stone with figures of the 12 apos- tles; fine stained glass and elaborate carvings on choir and behind the high altar; has a great number of memorial slabs, reliefs and statues; tombs of cardinals, archbishops, electors, besides images of tiic Virgin. C'hrist and the apostles. Here is shown tliv, :omb of IJoniface (30 years bishop) and a memorial slab to Kastrada, third wife of Charlemagne, The great bell does not seem to me inferior to that at Cologne. At 4 a. m. Sabbath mornings all the church bells ring together, while guns are tired from the citadel; this is repeated at J 0.30, when the racket is simply tremendous. Mayence claims the honor of Gutenberg and the printing art; his house is shown and also where he set up the first ' office.' A bronze statue of him (by Thorwaldsen) was erected 60 years ago — the event being honored by three days' festivity. There is also a bronze statue of the poet Schiller. The city hail is remarkably fine. An old palace of the electors is turned into a museum and contains a great number of Roman altars and headstones— piles of axes, adzes, picks, chisels, gouges, augers .'und coin. For Greek and Roman antiquities it takes first place in Fatherland; while the public library contains rare specimens of early printing. The railway station is large and convenient. An officird in gold-lace stands at the wicket and on seeing a stranger make purchas », inquires where he is going, examines his . icket, sees that correct change ' has been gotten, leads him into < X' • OKRMANY IM the waiting-room and shows on the clock what minute his train will be ready. Whether the motive he kindness or caution I cannot explain. Tiic esplanade along the river front is very handsome. The ground rises in easy terrace, planted with lines of acacia, tlieir tops trimmed round as gunshot. A fine theater stands on the esplanade. On the whole the city is highly interesting. Over a mile off the ronains of a Roman aqueduct claims attention. The route is along a beautiful shaded road, many of the trees covered with wicker beyond danger mark. Sixty columns of the acjueduct are upright, the tallest about 30 feet. They are 13 feet scpiare at the bottom, 20 feet apart and stand on a mound or dyke. They consist of stone and brick fragments held together by mortar — the outside casing of masonry having been long ago removed for building. The country round was well farmed but hilly, large sections being in forest. Zahlbaoh, the sleepiest of German hamlets, lies here in a wooded valley, a stream winding lazily through it. Old gtr.ts sitting under trees, smoking their pipes or do/.ing to sleep — their children's children playing in the brook and catching minnows. On the way out a cemetery is passed, the headstones having gilt images of Christ ai at Coblentz. A small Jewish cemetery adjoin.s on a hillside. Tht ground is well kept and most of the stones are expensive, all showing how careful this ancient people are in respect to their dead. r>om Mayence to Basel is over 200 miles. The route is along the Rhine valley, mostly over six miles wide, through which the stream wanders at its own ':rooked pleasure. 'I'be land is alluvial and highly productive. The usual grains and roots are grown such as rye, barley, oats, corn, potatoes, beets, carrots and turwips. I noticed ^ine sections of wheat between Freiburg and Basel, but rye and barley take first position. The different varieties are in narrow strips, seemingly not over four yards wide; the cau.se of which peculiarity I was unable to fathom. In the distance mentionvd I don't remember seeing a fence, hedge, dyke or obstruction of any kind along roads or between fields. Haymaking and harvest were in progress and in travelling 500 or 600 miles I failed to see one reaper or mower at work. The country each side was swarming with men and women, in proportion of perhaps two women to each man — the usual arrangement being a man cutting, a woman lifting, another binding. The sythe is about 20 inches long, almost straight, wide at heel and tapenng to a point. ftfi KAMI1I,KS IN KUROHK Wlioii ill position. It forms a right angle with tho snath, which i.s stniighl as a hrot)m-Hlick. 'Cradles' a-e rarely seen and \. hon \iscd, the fingers arc very short. Probably owing to the grain being nuu h broken, the sirkle is largely used and mostly in the hands of women. Sheaves are not tnatle into stooks as with us. ( )t;iasionally e.orn and wine (vine) are seen growing cheek to cheek; tho gtapes are seldoni trained on level groinuW so far Motlh. Hut few horses are sec.i in this country, cows being invariably usetl for plowing and carting of every kind. They appear more lively in harness than oxen, r.nd are on that account likely preferred. Tlie lrur,k wagons are extremely primative and heavy; and except the wheels, the axe and auger are the only tool- used in ( onstructing. 1 lere it seems to be a cardinal virtue to continue every thi;.g unchanged from one \nilleniutn to another. .'Vttcr leaving Mayer.ce slate disappears from roofs till Hasel is reached, tiles of various pattern being used instead. Heer making is a chief industry in this section and innnense (pumtities of hops are raised t«) supply the I ittcr. Kxtensive plantaiions of young oak arnl pine are frecpient, the trees regular in height as co»:i, the ground kept perfectly clear from weeds and bushes. Country road.i are excellent, oRen with a line of trees each side, giving attractive appearance. No Uidividual houses are seen but village and liamlcts are plenty. From Mayenc e to Worms is aS miles — a small old fashioned place to lef\ of tho river. 'I'he population is given at 20,000 scarcely a quarter of what it was six centuries ago. Worms existed jirior to Roman rule, a'^d in it Frankish kings and (lerman emperors often dwelt. Imperial covmcils were held there, the last m 1521 when l.uther stood before Charles V to declare his new religion. The building was destroyed by the French and now a tine bishop's palace occupies the site Worms sufTered much from the tramp of armed men, from tire and sword, gun and mortar. It wjis accorded to France in 1801, but restored to Ciennany a dozen years later. Its present industries are mostly tobaroo, beer and patent leather; but it seems not on the road to fortune. The cathedral is a massive old fane of red sandstone, Romanesque style and grandly simple. Its area is given at 350x87 feet, has two domes and four towers. A dozen great pillar::, eight feet thick, stand each side the nave supporting the roof. The altar finish rises about 50 feet and is surmounted by gilt crowns and crosses. The church contains many shields and tablets, together with carved figures of bishoi)s and saints. The Liebfrauenkirch is quite OKRMANY handsome with tail ta{)ering spire, stained glass, carved choif and {fill ceiling. Luther's moniinlent, erected in 1868 at cost of $8'>,ooo, is a magnificent casting. It represents the reformer, l)ible in hand, looking upwards, while round him are figures of Huss, Wickliffe, Savonarola and V/aldus, Home distance from town is the elm tree under which Luther rested and determined to enter Worms wh.itever be the outcome. The Jews have here a synagogue of the iith rentury, and in their htirial place f noticed the singular custom of heaping pebbles on the tom^^ stones. On Sunday crowds were strolling atiout and loafing at corners; stores were open, !)ut I saw none making purchase. During the afternoon bands were playing and guns firing. What in old time was a canal winding through the city is now a shady walk, twelve feet deep and about 60 feet wide at top, the bottom and sides thickly wooded,' f'Vom here to Sjjires is aboirl nine leagues. lAidvMgshafen is passed en route, 'vhich from its 30 tall <.himneys must be im portant. Spires is one of ( Germany's oldest towns and was at (^ne time no mean city. Twenty-nine imperial councils were held there, at one of which (in 1529) the reformers advanced a declaration or protest from which the word Protestant is derived. Near the reform church may be seen a fragment of the building in which the proceedings took place. During the wars of Jjouis XIV. the town was repeatedly sacked and in 1689 committed to flames. The population -s about 13,000, less than half the number contained four centuries ago. A beer-factory on extensive scale, segar and vinegar works are the only indus*- tries worth noting, 'I'he town will always be of interest as an old-time relic, its appearance being sufficient guarantee of its age. The cathedral draws most attention, with a record over 800 years. The style is Romanesque and its material red sand' stone. Several times it was dismantled, and two centuries ago the French used it as barn, storehouse and barracks. Early this century it was restored by the Bavarian king and now few places of worship surpass it. The length is given at 600 feet^ width 140 and height of ceiling 100 feet. The nave is sup- ported by 1 2 massive pillars each side; ceiling very handsome in blue and gold; choir ceiling frescoed with scripture figures. Four pillars of costly marble support a canopy of extraordinary beauty above the altar. The organ is brilliant as paint, bi»>nze and gold can make it. About 750 years ago the cathedral walls echoed to the appeals of St. Bernard, calling for warriors to chase heretics from the holy city. Many imperial ones were ' I i i tt8 RAMhI.ER IN KUUOI'li, inlt-ntHl \\\ its jireA» luu I'Yehch otM-npalli'ii dostroye't ot* tleficerl totnhs, mnmnirmis i\\u\ jilwrs.' (Mi llu- grmiml iiiljoiiiinf*; ia fi nnioits rork wimK icprcst'iUing riitisl ;muI ilis(i[ik's in llie g.mU'n. «t;iting hark 450 yeivrs. '\'\\v ratliLMlial Hlfiiula til the edge of a h.nnisnine, wocnlcd ))4rk, a stream ineainlciin|j; play- t\ four leagues front where it etUers the Rhine. Like most places in that section it was repeatedly saiked l»y the I'rench — five times ^(Mnhardeil. twice hurnt. three times Inkcn by assault, given over to rapine and pillage. U was to the doors of St. Peter's ehtmh here that Jerome of Prague fixed his thesis, and from its yard he addressed the people. Heidelherg is noted for its \miv-ersity. with about \oo teachets and nearly 1000 students. Many stories aw told of duels fought by the yoiith while at col lege — divide*! into corps and distinguished by color of their caps. Vne duels are not often serious, the combatants being well pro- tected by wadding before entering the lists, but its ct^stle is the linn .and bear of Heidelberg, on face of a steep wooded hill back of the town and ;^oo feel above the Neekar. ihe situation is mo5t pietvnx?s<^ue — standiitg on high artificial terrace, fa(;ing n nd warriors. .\ little distance to southwest is a roimd s,ructure, 90 feet diameter, abo'.it 100 feet high and walls 20 feet thick used as magazine. In 1689 ^^ ^"^^^^ ^'cd by the Frencli when a great piece was blown out atul now stands in the ditch. Wh.it was called ' the Isnglish garden ' is to south of this. tV^rmed by elector Frederic \'. for his Scottish wife. A marble catewav stands at entrance, with the Ikitish arms cut in the arch. Among the curiosities shown in the castle is a wine caskpr»rtcd across the center by oak tiinhers f4 inches s([iiare. The stand or cradle on which it rests Is a ponderous affair and innst Jiave cost the price of a good dwelling. A platform on top of the cask is nearly ;^o feet high nny two flights of stairs. The cask is said to have been thrice hlled, the first occasion being celebrated by the elector and his court having a dance on the platform. The last filling (according to report) was in fj(y4-^ whereas others maintain the cask hud never a taste of wine put ill it. A barrel without hoops is alongside and other ( ((riosites of nH() ():^ it was s(» battered and wrecked that Louis XIV. struck a medal to announce its destruction. At b?giniiing of last century it was again restr»red, to be shattered ijy liglitning in 1764, since which time sun and shuwer have been the only workers. The grounds arc scarcely of less inter- est than the castle -extending in great artificial terraces along the hill face. The whole |)lace is densely wooded and great trees are growing through terrace walls and dislodging the stones. An ascent of 30 minutes brings to VVolfsbrunner where trout are rean-d in ponds. Ascending still highc, Konigsthul on the suminit (with observation tower) commands a magnihcent view. 'J'he outlook from heights across the river i» no less charming, while excursions along the winding Neckar cannot fail to delight. Charlemagne during his reign of 'universal empire' was accustomed to grant estates to favorites in his army and house- hold. A certain office in the latter was palace-grceve— in German* l)fiilz-giaf or palsgrave. 'I'he great Charles, in a time of good humor, endf)wcd a servant occupying this office with a large estate on both sides of the Rhine; and from being a term of servitude, palsgrave became a title, going down to posterity with the lands attached. In time, counts palsgrave (in French palatine) took rank with inglish l(jrd and died in London ten months after at three score and six. Her nephew (Ch-irles I.) cared not to see a paui>er aunt about his palace; but now that she was dead he determined to give a royal outfit. After weeks of preparation, she was on March i, 1662 interred with splendid pomp in Westminster abbey; and the visitor to that historic fane will discover at the feet of queen Mary's splendid tomb a slab inscribed—' Elizabeth Stuart, queen of Bohemia.' Karl (before mentioned) used his wife so badly that she left him. The only issue (a daughter) became wife of Philii^ duke of Orleans, brother of Louis XIV. of France. Her .son became regent during the minority of Louis XV., and from him was lineally descended Louis Philip, late king of the French. Sophia (Elizabeth's youngest daughter) was in 1658 married to Ernest Augustus of Bruiiswick, to all appearance a slim enough match. But the unexpected generally happens, as by a succession of deaths and other causes, Ernest succeeded to the electorate; and in 1660 Sophia bore a son who at death of his father in 1700 became elector in his stead. Circumstances equally unexpected were making room for Sophia on the British throne if her breath had continued. During her life James H. was driven off, Wil- liam and Mary had their turn, Anne had been a dozen years i ! 1 -i tit RAMm.M IN RirRorH ((ueen i\i\il nvhr {nlvtmreil in lilt'. Sophia, ilio her son was a grandsirc, luul hopes she might outlive Anne, if only for a couple of hours in order to experieticc the thrill of being atl- tlresseil — 'yo\n niaitstyl' Hut ileath tould'nl lie ronxril and she wrts three months in her fomh when Anne hreiilhed her last in August 12. I7t4. Soi)hiii's son (then 54) aseended the throne as (teorge 1., king of tireal Jhitain and Ireland, with the tastes t>f a boor and the morals of a beast. It will thus be seen that Klizabeih Stuart gave a line of sovereigns to two rival natioi\s. The Orleans dynasty it is true failed to ie tyrant's fall (lermany got back its own and the Pala tinate was apportioned to Havaria, Prussia and Hesse — the title (like Poland) becoming extinct. FVom the Heidelberg to lUiden is about 60 miles, over a level country. The place is in a charming valley at edge of the Black Forest, owes existence to mitieral springs, and countetl one of the n\ost fashionable resorts in luirope. Previous to 1872 (when gaming was stoj>pcd| some 40,000 persons visited the place yearly; but there has been a falling-off since. The valley is about 200 yards wide, a stream winding through its center. A l>eautiful lawn extends along one side, shaded with giant trees. Here one can recline on easy seats, roll on the grass or paddle in the l)urn as may suit his years or his fancy. OEHMANY laj I'Jegftnt bridges cross the stream, here and there to residences or hotels einlmsomrd in trees and Imnked with flowers. The trinkhull is a pleasant showy place and j,(ronnds in the vicinity are delightful — gravelled walks among flowers and bushes, fountains shooting up water and bands playing in afternoons. The hills each side are dotted with viUas, while dense wood covers the heights. The hill to north is a fringe of the HIack Forest and timl»er cutting is effected with greater economy than in our country. The tree is cut at the rof»ts and is not allowed to crush, maim and slaughter others in its noisy descent. Then every part is taken away and applied to some purpose, The logs are hauled by oxen to the nearest stream, then floated down to where they can be joined into rafts. On very steep hills the logs are slid endwise to the water. In the evening I saw seven ox-teams returning from the wood with old fashioned bob-sleds. They were fuiclooking beasts with horns nearly a yard in length growing horizontally from their heads. Following a [)ath up the hill three miles into the forest brings to a massiv*' ruin known as the ' old castle.' It is af)parently of great age and its huge rough stones seemed more in keeping with its forest surrotmdings than the sculptured walls of Heidel- berg. Trees two feet thick are growing in its courts, a good- sized pine is springing from a rampart about 50 feet high, while others are pushing through walls and dislodging the rocks. One is disgusted by seeing those ancient piles fixed up like a mummy propped on end, segar in mouth, cane and collar. Workmen were here busy ' restoring,' while a gay flag swung from the highest turret. Tables, stalls and a dozen catch-penny devices weie about this ancient tumulus, where one would love to be alone in meditative mood and interview the past. No wonder that mine ire kindled when, on looking into a court, I beheld an ill-favored specimen of the ' unclean beast,' like enough a lineal descendant of wild boars that ranged these woods before Remus leaped the wall of his brother. From JJaden to Strasburg may be 15 miles, the town about a league from the river. The Riiine is here crossed by a bridge of boats and by an iron railway structure. Strasburg occupies the site of a Roman city and was a place of strength in the middle ages. During the wars of Louis XI\^ it was captured by the F'rench and remained in their possession till 1870. In August of that year it was invested by the Germans and after a gallant defence, 450 officers and 17,450 French troops laid down their arms. It has since been part of Fatherland and will likely '■^■'~ "'■■ f»- • • Il !li 124 RAMBLES IN EUROPE always continue. It was fortified by the best engineers of France, but nothing could stand the Krupp guns of Essen. The bombardment of 40 days was terrible and besides knocking the works to pieces, the town got badly shaken. In 1873 the Germans began new defences and now the place is stronger than ever. Fortunately the cathedral escaped with little damage — one of Europe's noted fanes, dating from the 1 1 th century. Its area is 360x130 feel, nave 42 wide and 99 feet in height; spire 464 feet, for a long time the highest in Europe. It was to have two steeples, but only one was finished; and the other remains a stump, which of cuurse mars the appearance. The style is Gothic; material, red sandstone. A rose window in the end is nearly 50 feet across, the stained glass in it rated among the finest existing. The pulpit is of carved stone, 15th century work; the organ-loft is extremely handsome. The high altar is very gorgeous and terminates in a tapering spire. A partition cuts off about one-third the main building, and in the rear section stood the marvellous clock bi ilt in 157 1 and used till 1780. The present wonder was built in 1838, stands some 30 feet high and about a dozen in width. It is often described and I will not attempt details. At noon the performance takes place. In a recess near the top a door opens and a figure of Christ appears; from another door the twelve apostles issue slowly in succession, each bowing to Christ in passing. In another part lower down a cock flaps its wings and crows thrice, with proper interval between; then Peter appears in attitude of woe. There are various other movements of less note. Justice to the bird compels me to say that its part was performed with marked success. St. Thomas' Church (Lutheran) has a marble monument to Marshal Saxe in the choir. The organ is 130 years old and is still in good condition. The church door is of iron, * 13th century finish. Some of the churches are roofed with green and yellow glazed tiles, looking extremely gay when seen from a distance. Newer portions of the city are wide and handsome, but ocher parts are old-fashioned and not over clean. Many streets only two yards wide produce vile odor enough to perfume Commercial avenue in Boston. The population is over 100,0-^0 and the chief industries are beer, sausage porcelain, brandy and morocco. The town is noted for manufacture of pate-de-foie-gras, a delicacy made from the liver of fatted geese. The article is put up in some two dozen places and the yearly value of output is given at $350,000. From here to Freiburg is about 40- miles; Offenburg passed on GERMANY »•/ »a5 the way is a walled town of 6000 people. It has a statue of Sir Francis Drake who introduced potatoes into Europe in 1586. Freiburg stands at edge of the Black Forest, a wooded hill rising to back, affording a fine view of town and country. Of its 36,000 people, one-fourth are Protestant. The place had a career of breezy variety, unsurpassed in political changes. During the peasant war 1525 it was destroyed by fire; taken by the Swiss in 1632 and '38; by the Bavarians in 1644; by the French in 1677; restored to Austria in 1697; taken by the French in 17 13; next year the Austrians got it; taken by the French in 1745; destroyed by the troops of Coigny two years later; given back to Austria in 1748; became the property of Baden in 1806. In front of the barracks stands a gigantic victory memorial of 1870. Fountains, statues and monuments are not wanting; and a tall, massive gateway of the old ramparts is an interesting object. Streams of clear water run in the gutter of many streets. The cathedral is a red sandstone Gothic, 350x100 feet and 100 feet height of ceiling. The nave is flanked by 12 great pillars on which are images of the 1 2 apostles. The last supper is represented in stone, with John leaning on the Saviour's bosom; another stone group shows Christ lying in the tomb with soldiers sleeping outside; image of Mary holding figure of Christ in her arms after the crucifixion. All the figures are life- size and very natural. Over one of the four side-altars hangs a large crucifix said to have been brought home by the crusaders. The figure on it is life-size, of gilded copper with embroidered tunic. Two rose windows with fine colored glass are deserving of notice. Sculptured figures over the main portal represent the wise and foolish virgins. The church is mostly noted for the elegance of its steeple, freely spoken of as unrivalled. It is of octagon form, 400 feet high and of stone open-work. The kaufhaus, near by is a curious 1 5 century relic, glazed tiles, old- fashioned gables and turrets. From here to Basel is about 50 miles, along east margin of the Rhine valley. Vine-clad hills to left, a wide expanse of grain fields to right, alive with men and women reaping, mow- ing, gathering and hauling. Villages and hamlets are frequent, looking as they might have been there at the flood. Storks are numerous and tho not protected by law as in Holland, receive kindly treatment. Their nests (of sticks) are built on church towers and ; chimneys; a storey each year being added, they frequently rise many feet. Storks are considered birds of good omen and the house they choose for a nest is thought lucky. md t.a^' RAMBLES IN KUROI'lf Hasel stand?; on both bunks of the Rhine where it makes a right angle from west to north. The river here is over 200 yards wide and is crossed by two bridges, one a wooden structure high above water; the other of stone and six centuries in use. On the latter stands a stone obelisk with meteorological outfit. Two flying ferries are also used for crossing. The bulk of the city lies west of the river and a feeling of jealousy exists between the sections. In former years a town clock stood on the bridge, and a human figure put out its tongue and rolled its eyes with every tick of the clock — said to be in derision to the smaller Basel. This giving mortal offence, the whole thing was removed in 1839. 1'^' ^870 Basel stood on the line between Switzerland and France; now the German i)rovince of Alsace comes between. The population is about 60,000, three-fourth Protestants. The town has two railway stations; that to left handsome, with reliefs of Newton, Humboldt, Euler and Laplace on the wall. The old city gate, with ponderous oak portcullis is an inter- esting piece of 1 4th century era. A stone fountain (about 400 years .old) represents a bag-piper in full blast. The museum is 'rich in minerals, fossils, old coin and medals. The natural hi.>tory room contains the skeleton of a moa, the bones being large as those of a horse. A picture gallery on the second floor contains some good modern paintings, but on the work of • old masters' I refrain from offering opinion. A short distance from Basel a fierce contest took place 450 ears ago between 1300 Swiss and over 20 times as many French, then in league with Austria. The Swiss with their usual valor, stood till only a dozen were left — the battle being known as the 'Swiss Ther- mopylae.' A vineyard now occupies the spot and the juice of its grapes is called * Swiss blood.' Twenty years ago a fine monument was erected in memory of the fallen braves. The cathedral is a grand old pile and next to St. Paul's in London, ranks first am 1 g Protestant churches. It was built 850 years ago, but ha;: b',en several times restored. It stands 70 feet above the riv*:. and a shaded terrace along the bank gives a fine outlook. The church contains a monument to Erasmus, besides many shields and memorial slabs. The pulpit is of stone, over 550 years in use; the organ is modern, but stands on a loft of 1380. In a hall behind the choir a great council was held in T431, called by Pope Eugenius IV., the object being a ' reformation of the Church in head and members.' Over 500 ecclesiastics were present and after disputing for years, the convocation was dismissed without important results. SWITZERLAND 127 The hall stands as left by this remarkable conclave. St. Eliza- beth church is a handsome Gothic of gray freestone, the gift of a Basel merchant who bequeathed over a million dollars for its erection. In St. Martin's the noted divine (Ecolampadius preached reform doctrines over 350 years ago — F^nglish church service is performed in it at present. On the whole Basel is an interesting place with lovely parks and rural attractions. SWITZERLAND. ■■/]'' This small republic has the honor of being in the same latitude as P. E. Island — extending a little farther north and south. It is the -nost hilly country in Europe and among the sma'.lest of independent states. Its area is 16,000 square miles, and only a small part is decently level or fit for tillage. Of every 100 square miles 31 are taken up by rocks, lakcj and glaciers; 20 by mountain pastures; 20 by meadows; 17 by forest; 11 by arable land and one by vineyards. The vegetation differs according to elevation, and like all mountainous countries, rain-fall is generous. In this way not over half the bread required is raised in the country. F>en the valleys are from 1 000 to 3000 feet above sea-level and a fire is always welcome whenever the sun is hid. A third of the people are occupied at agriculture; two-thirds in cattle-tending, manufactures and waiting on tourists. Some mountain sides are wooded or rocky and barren, others are covered with grass and shrubs, and known as ' hill pastures.' In May when snow disappears, cattle are driven out, moving gradually upwards, about August reaching the summit. At even they are gathered to chalets for milking, the attendants remaining here all summer, making butter and cheese. In the valleys cattle are seldom pastured, the grass being cut and fed to them in stalls. When pastured, there being no division of fields by fences, the cattle are tended by women or girls who occupy their time knitting. Great economy is observed here as in other matters. Let us suppose a piece of meadow 100 yards by 50 ready for pasture, flanked on three sides by grain and loots; strips of board (sometimes a rope) are laid along the ground so as to mark off a few yards from the end. On this the cow or cows are kept until quite bare; then the land-mark is moved m farther. All cattle what- ever sex or station in life have each a bell attached — goats and sheep the same. The bells are not large and harsh-sounding as in Canada, or the result would be torture. The country is not suited for sheep and only few are seen; but it is the happy home t J 'ID k^^H i fa 1 iG^^H 'iV .11 128 RAMBLES IN EUROPE of goats and they are accordingly plenty. In the morning a he''d drives all the goats belonging to a village to pasture and in the evening he brings them back in like manner. The tinkle of so many bells constitute one of the rural sounds so deai to the Switzer. X have watched them coming into a village, the flock getting smaller as a number turned to right and left till all had reached their quarters. For intelligence they appear more like dogs and make themselv>2s at home wherever they happen. Mountain slopes too steep and rocky for cultivation are clothed with forest, mostly spruce which grows to 5000 feet above sea- level. Except in cities wood is the only fuel and is used with great economy; no twig or fragment being allowed to waste. Even stumps and roots are carried long distance. Wood is cut about two feet long and pikd round the houses, end to the wall, a space left at door and windows. 1 h^* smaller sticks are bound in bundles, the twigs making good kindling when cut in leaf. Houses except in towns are built of logs, but the walls (six or seven feet high) are smooth and even as plank. Roofs have less than half the pitch usual in this country and they extend abouc six feet beyond the walls at sides and ends. These projections shelter the fuel just mentioned and the cattle at barns. The roofs are covered with split shingles about two feet long, over half inch thick, not smoothed at all except chip- ped with an axe. Nails are not used to hold them in position, but when a few tiers have been laid a long pole is placed horizontally on them and weighted with from a dozen to 20 stones according to length of the building. The poles are kept from slipping down by pins in the rafters. I judge there are generally from 200 to 400 stones on a roof, weighing together from two to four tons. With roofs so flat and such bad shingles, I cannot understand how they can refuse to admit water. A few of these log houses are large, two storey and quite artistic; some have a veranda all round where the people promenade in wet weather and also stretch clothes-lines. It is computed that 900 square miles of the country are covered with glaciers — streams of ice moving towards the val- leys at rate of six to eight inches in 24 hours, slower in winter. The origin of glaciers is not well understood, nor can the cause of their motion be satisfactorily answered. Some glaciers are over a dozen miles long, so that a rock placed on the upper part would take about 300 years to reach the terminus. The depth or thickness of ice is various, thicker at the start and diminishing towards the end, where it may average from 50 to SWITZERLAND »29. 100 feet. The thickness of some glaciers at their source has been computed at 1500 feet, but no accurate estimate can be given. When the glacier passes over a rise or precipice the ice cracks in all directions, and after a few summers' exposure, resemble pinnacles and spires. While some glacier^ are miles in width, the greater number are between 200 and 600 yards. Some are level in part of their course, others descend steep grades. The surface is often strewn vith rubbish falling from the sides — near the lower end entirely concealing the ice. This debris carried down for untold centuries form moraines or ridges on each side, some of them over 100 feet in perpendicular depth. The outside of these ridges is often covered with forest, great boulders that would fill a room scattered among them. The lower end of many glaciers forms an arch perhaps 50 to 60 feet high and about 160 feet span. The ice keeps falling in great slabs from the roof, thus preserving the dimensions unaltered. The ice is beautifully clear, has a blue tinge and without the stratified appearance common to other ice. A brawling stream issues from every glacier, its size corresponding with the parent mass. 'I'he milky appearance of the water is doubtless due to the various rock (slate for instance) ground to atoms by the movmg train. Perhaps no force in nature is more irresistable than an able-bodied glacier in its shirt-sleevej. The movcinent is slow but the momentum is beyond figures. The population of Switzerland is given at about 3,000,000. Of every 1000 it is estimated 700 speak German (the official language) 226 speak French; 55 Italian, and 19 a Latin dialect called Romanch. Parts near Germany are essentially German, parts joini: g France and Italy the same. With respect to religion, about 57 of every joo are Protestant and 43 Catholic; the latter have a majority in 10 cantons, the former in 12. The strongest Protestant cantons are Bern, Zurich and Vaud; the strongest Catholic cantons Lucern, Ticino, St. Gallen. The canton of Bern has over one-fifth the whole population. Com- plete toleration is extended to all religious beliefs except Jesuits. Education receives good attention and is to a certain extent com- pulsory. The country has four universities and about as many academies, besides schools of art. A remarkable feature of Swiss economy is the number of clubs — there being scarcely a pursuit or calling without a club or society to support it. The fact tiiat in several canton people have a direct voice in framing the local statutes does much to encourage political assemblies. The press is free and about 200 journals are devoted to political J 1! .»3o RAMRt.r.S IN rrHnPF. discussion, I So to literature iind Hcience. The govenunent is a republic with a constitution largely reKcnibling that of the United States. ICach of the a a cantons has its local house and frames its own laws. In some half dozen catftons all voters assemble in the open air at certain periods to enact local statutes. The federal parliament consists of two chambers, the upper with 44 members (two from each canton), the other 140 being one for every 20,000 people, elected for five years. Kvery male over ao is allowed the fran I'hise. The executive authority is vested in a council of seven members, heads of departments and holding oftice three years. The president is one of these, elected by his colleagues. Bern is the seat of power. No landed proprietors exist and it is calculated that of the 500,000 heads of families la in 13 own land. In America where food and clothing are so abundant it is difficult to understand the rigid economy necessary here to keep the wolf at pro|)er distance. Terraces for growing oats and barley are seen on mountain steeps, same as for vine cul- ture; while patches are cleared among rocks only large ■r»o< to grow a few sheaves. When securing these niggard harveMs sheets are often snread under and in tliis way carried home to prevent loss in transit. Barns are raised on props la to 13 inches high, a large flat stone on top. to discourage any enter prising rat who might be curious to examine the contents. The flail with its murderous and head-breaking record is ptlil used for threshing. The reaping-hook is also used, and in mowing women take place in the ranks and swing the scythe with as much assurance as the l)est. Carrying grain, hay and brushwood falls to the lot of women, a part of Swiss economy most repulsive to my feelings. After all there is a fascination Ujout these glorious hills and valleys that invests even misery with the charm of romance. The country has no standing army to speak of, but every male has to serve as soldier from 20 to 34, should the country require it. As in Germj.ny military drill is taught in schools, which I consider a good idea even were swords turned into sickles. Without con.^ent of the confederacy no canton is allowed to maintain over 300 troops. Tho not favorably located for commerce the trade per head is larger than in more favored countries. It is not burdened with a .standing army, the admin is tration is of the cheapest kind and people have learned the wisdom of removing all barriers against international commerce. Besides the leading industries, a good deal of money is left by ! * SWlTZF.RI,ANn M» T ft,:-- foreign travel. Piles of what they call wood sculpture is for sale at every hamlet and cottage along tourist routes. The long stormy winter is turned to account this way, which less provident people would spend in sleep or gossip, I once priced a group, which the owner offered to land on this side for $60 — he paying freight and taking all risk. The work might take three or four weeks to make, and $60 there would probably buy as much as $160 in this country. Immense quantities of ornaments and bric-a-brac are made of various kinds of rock found in the dia- trict, 'I'hen every male Swiss along the routes of travel is a guide, some of them licenced; the regular tariff is $2 per day, and more for dangerous places. People are not accustomed here to extend favors for nothing. If a native answer yes or no to a question, or point east or west with his finger, he expects pay; and Fl.ould the traveller forget, he'll remind him. Koads are excellent and the lakes are well supplied with steamers. Distance is measured in kilos, five English miles being equal to eight kilos. People never speak of distance, but of the time an average walker takes to travel. They say a place is three, six or nine hours off according to conditions. In spite of manifest engineering troubles, the country is well supplied with railways. Passenger cars are on the American system, except where they border on France. Telegraph communication is general, the length of wire in ratio of population surpassing other countries. The tariff is cheap — i o cents for 20 words and 5 cents for every 10 additional. Switzerland started early in the business of watchmaking — Geneva, Neuchatel and Locle, being the principal centers, .Some 200 years ago an inhabitant of the latter place procured a watch, an article then unknowii in the country. Needing repair, he took it to an ingenious mechanic for correction. Richard succeeded, and making him.self familiar with the parts under- took to build another. Without knowledge or tools the difficulty may be imagined; but great difficulties vanish before an earnest will and honest purpose — the watch was finished and cau.sed a sensation in the district. Then the idea got abroad that where one has led, others might follow. Many who had been spoiling for something to do in winter set to work, and behold watches were made in cottage and hamlet, on wild mountain side and seque.stered valley. , i The Rhetia were the earliest people to settle this land of wonders. These were supplanted by the Helvetii (a Celtic race) in turn subdued by the Romans before they invaded Britain. 'J «3i RAMBJ-ES IM" l:l?lft(1il»1>' ll ' The rountry was overrun by Nurlhcni nations early in the 5th century and raises got so hopelessly mixed as to leave no trace of the original people. In the lith and r^th i.cnturies Austria got the upper hand and during the 14th, took plare the struggle for freedom. To this time belongs the legendary story of Tell, the national hero, the Wallace of Switzerland. Young readers will be sorry to learn that no mention of either Tell or Gesler in found in authonti«" history and good authorities declare the whole thing a tigmeni. Hut the battles of Morgarten, Morat and Nancy were no fables, at each of which their Austrian oppressors were badly worsted and finally gave up the game. At time of the French revolution it was made a republic of 19 cantons, but in i Si 5 its independence was restored, nine lead- ing powers consenting to preserve its soil from invasion. From 1830 to '48 the Ultramontane and Protestants had a good deal of contention, ending in expulsion of Jesuits and suppression of monasteries, in 1848 a new constitution like that of the United States was frainod, modifievl in 1874. In mountain regions one often meets persons with goiter, an unsightly enlargement of the neck in front. Cretans are |)ersons with various degrees of idiocy, usually afflicted with goiter, tho not always. But one afflicted with goiter may in other respects l)e sound. • • » From Basel to Lucern (55 miles) is one of the most delightful routes in the country. The day was insufferably hot at starting, but we had not proceeded fa»- when cool gusts began to sweep from the mountains. The track at first runs low in the valley, gradually ascending the hillside to left. Lovely vistas are frequent— the same with hamlets and old-fashioned churches. Some houses thatched with straw, others have tiles — no fences along roads and nothing to mark individual possessions. Tunnels are frequent. .\s the track ascends, views in the valley below are enchanting — winding streams, lovely smooth roads, ancient bridges, people at work or in groups walking along the highway, village and hamlets nestling among fruit-trees, meadows smooth and green as a lawn dotted with trees, the heights generally wooded. No cattle are seen, the grass being cut and fed in their quarters. Clouds send down frequent contributions and grain crops are seldom attempted. Peat is being cut and spread to dry, or set up in heaps of a dozen or two together. In Scot- land peat are dug in bogs far from houses; here as in Holland they are dug near the doors and under soil tilled for centuries. No indication of wealth and seldom of comfort, yet I am not 11 .V 3Wrr/F:Rf,AND tiS surprised the natives forsa/e their rural homes with reluctance. The track in now passing near the lake and town of Sempach whereon July 8, 1386, the Austrians were signally defeated by! the bravery of Arnold von Winkelred, a name that will always rank high among patriots and heroes. It was a hand-to-hand combat and the Swiss were likely to come off second. Winkelred leaped forward, grasped all the Austrian spears his arms could < reach, making a passage through which his compatriots rushed. The noble heart was pierced with many lances biU the foe were defeated — the country was safe. , > Lucem, with 15,000 people, is on both sides the Reus* where it leaves the lake with swiftness of a millrace. The stream is about 60 yards wide and is crossed by four bridges, two of them old wooden structures, roofed. Till recently the city had walls and bastions. The situation is very fine, the Righi and Pilatus to left and right — with the glory of all lakes (Lticern) in front. Hehind, is an amphitheater of verdant hills, with gay beer gardens and restaurants nestling among the forest. The greatest lion of the place is cut in the face of a rock behind the ctty«' It is 28 feet long, represents the beast transfixed with a shaft; and in dying condition. It records the bravery of 26 officers and 760 Swiss guai'Js who perished while defending the*, Tuileries, August 10, 1792. It was designed by the great sculp- tor Thorwalsden, cut in 1821 and is one of the grandest monu- ments in existence. The rock is overhung with trees and bushes; below the figure, officers' names are inscribed. On a rocky hillside near by, a group of glacier mills were discovered not many years ago. These are round holes in the slate rock, varying in size from two feet to alx)ut 16 wide and deep. They are supposed to have been formed by granite boulders finding lodgement in beds of glacial streams and kept in motion by the current. The stones are in several of tKe pots, which they fii exactly.'.. ■:• '• • >■■- .. ». -:■■ ^ f ;i't-;., Few bodies of water afford finer scenery than lake I.ucem. ' Its greatest length is about 25 miles, average width two miles and much less in ])laces. Ii could hardly be more irregular in outline. People of the country call it ♦ lake of four forest can- tons,' because four cantons touch its shores. Besides the town of Lucern, about 30 villages and hamlets are along its margin, nearly all supported by tourist travel. Oi its six projections that to south is eight miles long and known as lake Uri, pre- senting a wild, almost terrible aspect. Its sides are nearly - perpendicular avails of rock, stratified in the most reckless 8 '■'{ k 134 RAMBLES IN EUROPE fashion. Along the east margin a road is cut into the rock high above the lake, with a dozen tunnels in its eight-mile length. Here stands Tell's chapel on a ledge jutting into the water, with a mountain 7000 feet high at uack and 600 feet of water in front. It is a small pavilion, open in front, with central spire, and if tradition be correct, markb the spot on which Tell leaped from a boat when being conveyed to a dungeon at Kuss- nacht. Till late years it could only be reached by water. At south end of the lake is Fluelen, a scattered village with railway station and terminus; and two miles up the valley is Altorf, with 3000 people, capital of Uri canton. Here dwelt the legendary Tell and a great plaster statue marks his position while shooting; a fountain loc yards off showing where the boy stood. About nine miles east of Lucern is the Righi, nearly 6000 feet above sea-level. It is not a single cone, but an irregular grou]) 20 miles round the botton. It is a favorite mountain to climb on account of its easy ascent and the splendid view from its summit. A hotel stands on top at which many tourists remain over night to view the sunrise. The lower slopes are clothed with fig, chestnut and almond trees, while its pastures are said to f.^ed 4000 cattle. The summit is crowded with Jerseys, and from daily intercourse with people and receiving gifts of bread and other dainties, they are tame and compaiiion- able as spaniels. The average time for ascending on foot is. four hours; but a cogged railway makes the ascent in about 80 minutes. The track is four miles long; steepest grade 1 in 4; speed, a mile in 20 minutes. About an hour after starting a tunnel 82 yards long is passed, then a ravine 75 feet deep crossed on iron tre' lis. The view from its summit is very attrac- tive. Lucern 9 or lo miles off, seemed half a league, and dis- tance all round seemed to contract in proportion. The towering ma^s of Pilatus a dozen miles to south-west was the most evident feature; while along the south and east horizon snow peaks formed an array of teeth and splinters. The nearer land- scape spread below consisted of mountain, lake, hill and valley, fields and forest, town and villa, winding roads, railway trains bending round hills, popping into or out of tunnels. Distance shrinks like a rubber band when freed from tension. A lake nine miles long, its nearest point over two miles from where I stood, had dwindled to a mill-pond. A steamer some half dozen miles away appeared a toy at a quarter mile's distance. I could see the smoke from its funnel, note the streaks its keel left in the WP.tT, tint could discern no forward motion. At lengfth it « SWITZERLAND 135 reached port — Airth, a small place two or three miles below where I stood, looking near enough to toss a pebble. I could see the men running to and fro when bringing the boat to moor^ ing, could see passengers land and others embarking; every movement was distinct, but the boat appeared a foot or two long, the people exactly like ants. About two miles beyond Airth is Rossberg, over 5000 feet high, down the side of which , a disastrous landslip occurred in 1806. The summer had been remarkably wet and at 5 p. m. on September 2nd, a slice estimated 900 feet long and loo thick slid down 3000 feet, covering four villages and instantly burying about 500 persons. A lake three miles long v/ns o' e-third filled with rubbish, its waters being thrown up 60 feet and partly destroying a village on the opposite shore. The beautiful valley was in a moment reduced to indescribable wreck, traces of which are yet seen. > Pilatus is a remarkable cone seven miles south of Lucern, the highest of its four peaks nearly 7000 feet above sea-level. At its base are rich pastures, farther up, a grim forest; the higher parts, wild ridges of rock. The summit may be reached in five hours, and a railway ascends from Alpnach, return fare $3.20. In clear weather the view is splendid; but Pilate usually wears a cap and shawl of vapor. Besides Lucern, the most important seats by the lake margin are Weggis, Vitznau, Gersau and Brunnen, their feet in the lake, their backs to the mountain. They are mostly hotels embowered in trees, a landing in front at which passenger steamers call a dozen times daily. Not in- frequently a terrace shaded with trees is built to the water, where tables are set and boarders take in with their luncheon the views from the shore. The mountains some distance up are green as a lawn, dotted with fig-trees and walnut — the pictur- esque Swiss dwellings nestling among them. Seen from the water, these slopes resemble pictures on gallery walls, only vaster and finer. I see those beautiful hamlets in their glorious setting, but I cannot describe them. Gersau (now boasting of 2000 people) was four centuries ago capital of the smallest independence that ever existed. The whole concern (country zrA city) scarcely numbered a thousand persons, with an area of A league in dimensions. The French with unexampled meanness, pounced on this tiny morsel and in 1798 reduced it to bondage. Brunnen (two miles to east) lies in a bend of the lake, a place of hotels, with scenery in front unsurpassed in grandeur. A short distance off is the fitld of Rutli where (on night of Nov. 7, 1307) 33 men of the Uri swore to each other 1,1 ^1! :^ .V- ■' :.0-Jr 136 RAMBLES IN EUROPE not to rest till the countty was free. They redeemed their pledge and the spot is held sacred. While most hotels are in nests by the water, some are perched on heights where access is gained at the risk of adventure. Like all mountain lands, the weather is naughty: the morn may be clear but it's the smile of a traitor. The mother may forget her baby (boy at that), but the Swiss forsakes not his umbrella. It was once blue, but time has toned its color; it has seen generations fall and others replace them, witnessed revolutions of states and fall of empires, its stick is worn at both ends right to the cotton, but it never once remains at home forgotten. Then the cold is a concealed enemy, ready to pierce the unwary whenever the sun is hidden. From Alpnach about 20 miles bring to Meiringen, a pleasant village in the Aar valley. Near by, the stream passes through a gorge in the solid rock, half mile long, perhaps 200 feet deep and varying in width from one to five fathoms. It looks as if worn by centuries of attrition and glacier mills are numerous in the sides. The Aar rushes through with reckless speed, and in the narrowest part wiih wonderful racket. The day was hot but cool enough in this canyon. A footway of boards runs along one side on iron braces fastened in the rock, and to justify the admission fee, I was told it cost $14,000. A mile or two off, a - considerable stream makes a daft leap into a wild, gloomy chasm several hundred feet below. A log house stands 50 yards in front and for 10 cents one can gaze at the falls through a window. Violent gusts of spray keep the place continually drenched with water. • . < On July 22nd I started for Grindelwald. A good deal of hard climbing, then a valley with ramparts of rock several thousand feet. A fellow had established himself here with an alpine horn to disturb the echo for accommodation of tourists and receipt of pennies. The instrument is 7 or 8 feet long, made of wood, closely wound with cane or rattan. It has a brass mouth-piece and from the size of a broom-stick It gradually increases, flaring at the lower end to six inches. The range is about three octaves, the sounds are soft and not unpleasant — perhaps indeed because the lower note resembles a dinner horn, thus calling up cheerful recollections. There is no attempt at playing a tune, and the pitch I suppose is regulated by the volume of air. Here for the first time I saw the track of a landslide which had plowed its way through a piece of forest, tearing, rooting and breaking trees, digging a trench several feet and carrying great rocks in the general tumble. The valley 6-' SWITZERLAND »37 below was strewn with boulders, from the size of a cottage^ that had reeled from the heights at one time or another. It is difficult to imagine a scene of confused wreck surpassing the work of an active landslide. Soon the point of VVetterhorn appears to south, sharp and clear as diamond piercing the ether. Rosenlui glacier is next seen to left, diminishing in size and noted for the clearness of its ice. After a few miles of forest and considerable climb through hill pastures, we are on top of the pass, 6500 feet above sea-level. Here is an indifferent inn with fare that only the hunger of mountain climbing makes respected. From the summit, Grindelwald is seen down in a mist. It looked ten minutes olif and I laughed when a fellow-traveller declared it three hours to the valley. I did well to laugh first, as I exceeded that time in reaching. When about half-way down, one of those fellows with only sense enough to blow, began the alpine-hom racket. The clear rocky side of Wetterhorn rose 8000 feet from where I stood, its base a mile to left. Five or six seconds after sounding, an echo began to reach us, ascending in waves from crag to crag till it ceased at the a])ex. I have heard the song of birds in their various moods and every variety of instrument from the grandest organs to the humble jewsharp, but nothing to approach that mountain echo. I fancied its wavering course could be seen in scintillations of gold till it reached the su)nmit. It seemed too ethereal for earth, was it a voice of the spheres? Giving the performer a gratuity, I reluctantly moved on, ^y inward consciousness all the time shouting that I must hear those celestial sounds repeated. After dawdling on for a half mile, picking alpine blooms, but thinking echo, I started back, the ascent requiring more effort than six times the length; on a level. Arriving at the focus, I threw myself down, beckoned to the homer, held out a dime and made signs for the ' alpine.' The matinee over, I started down, reached Grindelwald, engaged quarters and went forward prospecting. The approach to a glacier near by was secured by tariff and a small chamois goat was shown for like figure, from both of which a good sum was extorted. The ice at lower end of the glacier was perhaps 60 feet thick and 80 yards wide, arched as already stated* A fellow had mined a grotto of about 20 feet, and inside a person looked blue in however good spirits. Were the grotto larger and shown by electric lights, the efifect would he startling. Hotels near glaciers are at no expense for ice — the supply has no limit and sure for all ages^. There being a few hours before night I started up along the glacier in search of adventure, and was >««/i/y 9 14 138 ramhi.es in kurope ■im successful. After ascending a little the rot;k8 had to be climbed by temporary ladders and finally I came to a wild savage gorge, the ice rent in great fissures, perpe ndicular ramparts each side, and everything tossed about in the wildest manner. On starting to return the path refused to develop. After long search and when deliberating whether with my thin garments I would be alive on the morrow, a young man and his sister appeared, he with alpenstock and coil of rope round his shoulders. Noticing me going up late and not returning, they started in search — not too soon, for a thick fog came up and the curtains of night were descending. Next day was bad for mountain climbers (and the valley was full of them), pouring rain and fog. I paid a visit to another glacier — a wild confused place, fenced in and with a cot near for receipt of customs. Natives here are wonderfully keen for business— even in pouring rain girls were stationed along the track, in shelter of rock or umbrella, trying to sell pictures, wood sculpture, berries and trinkets. Beggars, lame, halt and vari- ously afflicted, sat from morn till night (rain or shine) at their dreary post. One is continually waylaid by men and boys im- portuning to be taken as guides or porters. They seem to have no idea of doing the smallest service without reward — for a word spoken or finger pointed, a fee is expected. Grindel- wald is a pleasant valley with church, manse and some half dozen hotels. The place is irregular in outline, thickly settled — torrents and streams everywhere brawling and rushing. July 24th I set out for Laterbrunnen by Manlichen pass, nearly 8000 feet above sea-level. The ascent from Grindelwald is not very steep and done in four hours, the slope consisting of hill pastures, swarming with white and yellow cattle, fat enough to butcher and clean as antelopes. Near the sujnmit snow- drifts^^were still in hollows, cattle lying on knolls alongside and chewing >their cud. All cattle of whatever age or sex have bells attached, goats and sheep equally provided. The bells are small and sweet-sounding — quite different from cow-bells in this country. The combined tinkle of so many produce a sound im- possible to realize from written description. A great variety of .lowering shrubs carpet the summit, while lower down the homely buttercup gave its tinge to the landscape. The pass commands a fine view in clear weather, and having been wet for some days, I decided to await improved conditions. The inn was a frame build 'ng intended for summer, 8000 feet above sea, far too airv for comfort. The bed-clothes were few and SWITZERI.AKP 139 sleep had departed — I was too busy shaking to spend time in slumber. Soon as daylight became an established fact I sallied out from my prison. It was July 25th; the ground was white and frozen, the visible heavens were without cloud, the sun iwas just peeping, the discomforts of night were forgotten, the out- look was gorgeous. I betook myself to a cone a few hundred feet high at half a mile distance and began observations. To north appeared a confusion of mountain and valley, without order or system; to north-east a series of jagged peaks with snow patches among them; due east a similar view a great deal more distant, looking dim and soft through a haze of purple; near at hand, Grindelwald valley appeared dim, indistinct in an ocean of vapor, obscured by the towering mass of the Eiger. Southward, from east to west, the Bernese Alps an unbroken glare of snow covered summits, the early sun touching their peaks with colors. The VVetterhom, Wellborn, Schrekhorn, Finsterarhorn, Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Silberhorn, each over two miles perpendicular height, towering in their dazzling mantles. Besides these dozens of peaks less high had a place in the grand procession. To west appeared mountain and hill promiscuously pitched; close at hand, Laterbrunnen valley, over 5000 feet below and as near perpendicular as one cared to have it — its cascades, hamlets and churches looking dim and obscure through an ocean of vapor. To north-v/est part of lake Thun appeared as a mirror. The fascinatio^^i, the glory of that scene! how idle to attempt a description. From the slope towards sunrise came up faintly on the still air the confused tinkle of hundreds of cow and sheep bells, the lowing of cattle, barking of dogs, shouts and laughter of children, the dairymaid's song as the bovines were milked at the chalets. No wonder the Switzer pines with homesickness in foreign lands — that he sighs for sights and sounds of his native country. What are the temples of Milan and Rome to the glories of Jungfrau and Welter? How hard and secular is the voice of bands to the commingled rural sounds that ascend through miles of ether. If his hut be poor the supreme majesty of earth is before him; if his alpine horn be uncouth, the hills return its rude bray in sounds fit for the upper palace. I returned to the inn, had ' coffee ' and after another feast of gorgeous sights, addressed myself to the labor of reaching Laterbrunnen. There is a mysterious and provoking deception in regard to distance among mountain and valley, and it seems no one can learn from the eyes of another. People here don't t ■ m :! i 4 .i- : 1 1 'U 1 'f^B 140 KAMBI.F.S IN EUROPE speak of distance — in ihui they are honest, as they know little about it. I would no more venture a guess at distance in this country than at the erratic career of a comet. Were I going to a »|)0t that looked near enough to strike with a pebble, I would set out with young day and take a load of provisions. Had 1 ;tQ cross what appeared a brook a yard from each side, I'd examine with a ao-foot pole lest the treacherous thing might float the ' Parisian.' I first noticed the trick distance among hills has of stretching like a piece of elastic, when passing through Glencoe in Scotland. A cave was pointed out in the side of Buachail E;.ve, the mountain rising like a wall a few yards to our left. The horses were going at a brisk canter, yet mountain and cave kept right abreast for 1 think 1 5 minutes — then they began perceptibly to loiter. But 1 am off for Laterbrunnen. The place looked near enough to cast down an apple, yet hours were required to reach it. Could one let him.self down in a cask, his career (if not safe) would be rapid. After zig-zaging for miles, with a general spice of danger, I arrived in the valley at noon. Laterbrunnen means ' nothing but brooks ' and the name is judicious, as brooks are every few yards rushing, brawling, forming cascades and running races. Hotels along this steep are many, w' the supplies and not a few of the boarders have to be cai on mules. Another style is more breezy and festive: a padded chair is strapped to the back of a stout porter on which the lady takes her position. The ascent is steep as an ordinary roof and every few yards, stands are provided on which the carrier rests his precious burden. A procession of carriers thus laden, pass- ing one of our towns would gather more than a circus — here they attract no attention. There is a kind of road, but far too steep for wheeled carriage. The valley is half a mile wide, flanked by almost perpendicular ramparts about a thousand feet high. A small reckless stream rushes over a brink 980 feet from below, which it reaches in mist. Some miles beyond, a a larger stream shoots from a cleft in the rock as if discharged from a cannon. The day was roasting hot and the natives were securing their hay, as usual carried to barns on the back of their women. Shortly before, a torrent of mud had covered acres ot grain, and meadow. Large trees were uprooted and broken like pipe-stems. Even in summer only a few hours, sun gets into the valley. The expansive forehead of Jungfrau is gorgeously seen to the south. The place is terribly infested with small dealers in wood-sculpture alpenstocks, pictures and thousands of bric-a- SWITZERLAND 141 brae. They have everywhere stands by the roadside and im- portune people of every kingdom and tongue to purchase. Few places are so haunted by tourists. The principal hotel was so crowded that with difliculty one received attention, while the place was barricaded with coaches, mostly tourists from Interlaken. During my seven-mile walk a coach every two minutes passed me. The road is smooth and hard, while the scenery is attractive. Steep sides of softest green, studded with fruit trees, brown cottage, frecjuent streams forming white streaks and cascades into the valley, forest patches higher up, with limestone overtopping. The rest is mostly through wood, a burly stream racing alongside, falls into lake Brienz. Lakes Thun and Brienz are end to end in the Aar valley, each about nine miles long and very deep. They are separated by two miles of plain on which stands Interlaken, with 2000 people. Ii is supposed that originally both lakes were one and that in course of ages the rubbish brought by two streams formed the land in question. liake Brienz is flanked by steep wooded hills each side; hamlets are along shore which the steamer visits. Near the east end a stream dashes down in seven cascades over a thousand feet. A hotel at the top, reached by a cogged railway, is a favorite retreat. Dui iig summer nights the falls are illuminated by colored lights. Brientz (with 3000 people) is at east of the lake, and a mountain 7000 feet behind it. Here the railway and steamers connect. The view towards Interlaken was lovely — a soft bluish haze over the water and rosy tint against the mountains. In the opposite direction the view was equally fine— the Aar valley, bounded by ramparts of rock, is perfectly level, the river rushing through the center, the shores nicely paved with pebbles. The valley was filled with haze; Meiringen at its upper end, showing dim and soft through the smoke of its chimneys. Snow peaks beyond looked beauti- fully purple. ' 1 , I^'rom Meiringen to Brunig pass is 4^ miles, with ascent of 1400 feet, requiring a cogged rail and special engine. Since passing through here on the 20th my rambles have been entirely in Bern, a canton greater in extent than a dozen of the smallest and with half-million people. From Brunig to Alpnach. the scenery tho not first-class is very attractive. The track being on high grade, the valley is seen below with its hamlets on border of lakes, its cots among fruit-trees, its soft green meadows, its smooth winding roads and patches of forest. Lake Sarnen is three miles long with both its sides well settled. The district If; I i? 9; '■» II H I 142 RAMni.ES IN EUROPE farther on appears of greater prosjierity than most partsiof the country. Some hamlets have no regular streets, but a path betweien houses. Sarnen at north end of the lake has 4000 people, some good houses and several churches- —one of them handsome. The weather in these j>arts is greatly uncertain, or as farmers say — ' catchy.' If by some streak of luck hay becomes dry, it is sheer misfortune to get ii re-damaged, and at approach of a shower neighbor- assemble as if to extinguish a fire. Along here 1 noticed a :>pecimen rush of this nature. The morning was Hiir but clouds soon developed an J gave nnmistakeable signs of letting fall their contents. The train held up at a sUition; in a field near by hay was in wind- rows and apparency fit for housing. Pioneer drops began to fall and a .scene of great animation presented — what a subject (i thougtit) for an instantaneous photo. Peoi)le began to rush in twos, threes and half-dozen; some had ropes, some forks, others nothing anri all attacked the hay in deadly battle. The greater number began carrying off m armfuls; others tied bundles in ropes and shouldered them with mighty efibrt. The shower had rai.sed a furious .squall and be;7,an driving everything hither and thither, but fortunately in right direction, 'i'hose having arm- fuls lost their hold, those with back-loads were knocked down, while the bundles kept on without them. Counting noses there must have lieen 16 boys and girls, men and women. It was amusing to see the smallest dots carrying enough for a lamb's b'-eakfast, tumbling and tossing — now hid from sight, then appearing. To give a bree/y variety, several dogs joined in the frolic — chasing and jumping and in their own way giving voice to their gladness. As the train moved out rain was falling with steady even patter, but I believe most of the fohi was got home without serious damage. Arrived at Alpnach at 1.30 — pouring rain in afternoon. On the train from Brunig 1 heard some planning to have a time on Pilatus, but their plans were distorted. Soon a train load came down, in the worst way disgusted — nothing above but clouds and fog, with cold that was heartless and piercing. Next day I took shipping for Fluelen at south extremety of lake Lucern; rain fell in torrents, with \ niean sneaking cold that pierced one's inmost substance. Slightly rigged as I was, I fail to remember a day sj^ent with greater discomfort. AVhile the lake appeared ink, the rain caused frequent cascades and white streaks down the mountains. I arrived at Fluelen by noon from which less than ioo miles by rail brings to [taly. The ir^ H SWITZERLAND «43 valley has high granite walls each side, diminishing in width from a league at Fluelen to a mere gorge some dozen miles up, with a stream dashing madly against rocks and other obstruc- tions. The lower valley is thickly peopled judging by the frequency of village and hamiet, the Reviss wandering among them. The track constantly ascends, passing over deep gorges and through frequent tunnels, whiJ- a good wagon-road doubles and curves high up in the valley. At a certain place I noticed a hamlet with its church perched on a hill to right. Just then we entered a tunnel and on emerging tliere was a village with its small fane on top of a bunion. Could there be two hamlets with temples so exactly alike? No; but the track had made a complete turn or loop and is now on higher level. The valley has now became steep, rocky, tojtuous — frightful jagged peaks, frequent tunnels, a large stream dashing madly among wreckage, then out of sight into deeper gullies. Rain was pouring, cold was piercing, patches cf snow at short distance. Could a rabbit or crow make ends come together? But stay — this place is almost thickly peopled: in the very worst and wildest parts are hamlets and churches. How terrible must be the fight for existence among this chaos of rock and rush of waters — where a glimpse of honest sunshine is almost rare as an eclipse, where even the cold of summer calls for as many garments as one can carry. Then what a firm hold religion has on the human sub- ject when in circumstances of such poverty, churches are built and stated worship maintained. This was the canton of Uri, the home of Tell and the 33 sworn patriots who met on the historic field of Rutli, One was almost pained to note the device used to dry some grass thai had been gathered in hand- fuls among the rocks. A bunch is placed on a stone, a short stick is laid on top, then a handful of grass, then a stick and so on — the whole pile (sticks omitted) making perhaps a slim feast for a wether. Two deep rocky gorges appear and some magni- ficent scenery as the train steps out of darkness. But it is only for an instant and the iron-horse brings up at Andermatt, the entrance of St. Gothard tunnel. The valley here may be 100 yards wide, flanked by almost perpendicular rock. Andermatt, if small, is important, has several large hotels, fine railway station and police. The St. Gothard tube, over nine miles lon^^ 'vas commenced in 1872, finished in t88o and cost over ten million dollars. The center is 3780 feet above sea-level, but over 6000 feet below the summit. The train takes 26 minutes in darkness: the first ■ ■-■^■''■, ■' ;i;j^ ■} ' 1 ( ■1 'i i 1 s ■'i ■ 1 • t ; ; 1 li p i 11 / 144 RAMni.RS IN F.ITROPF. half being up gnide is slowly travelled; the furnace is constantly being filled and the smoke is unpleasant^ The train emerges at Airolo in canton ' ino, a change is noticed in the temper- ature, Italian words are on the station and that language is spoken l)y the people: except in mode 6f government they are as much ltalia)> as Venice. The landscape is now less rocky, the style of houses different, while the people's dress show a compromise with the sunny land. 'I'he track follows Ticino valley, a mile or so in width, lofly hills each side streaked with snow, houses and hamlets wherever there is footing, train about half the time in tunnels, deep gorges to right but unbroken rampart to left, torrents and cascades tumbling down mountains, granite split thin like boards and stuck on end in the ground for fenc- ing, flat stones on roofs as shingles. Here mountain sides are steep and rocky as any Swiss goat could covet, a small church on a sharp rocky peak several thousand feet above the valley — if used for worship, how do people get to it ? Now grape culture begins, not the same variety as along the Rhine, but growing like hops and trained on arbors. 'I'hese are made of granite split like fencepoles, from about seven to 1 4 feet long. The district is entirely without wood and this a])plication of stone shows how necessity quickens invention. Several falls and cascades are streaking the mountains to right. My next stay was at Biasco, a village at junction of Val Blegno with Ticino. There being an hour or two, I walked up the former till night obscured i>roceedings. During this stroll 1 met 14 women and three men in several companies, carrying loads of brushwood, grass and fern which they must have brought a great distance. Some used creels, others carried the stuff tied in ropes, the poor things bending low under their burdens. I mention this trifling incident to show the terrible hard times women have in this country. Not only valleys but moimtain sides are dotted with wretched-looking hamlets, seemingly abodes of stalwart misery. It is stated that people here live princijially by chestnut roasting; but I saw few trees to supply such business. Roofs of houses and churches are covered with stones from one to two inches thick, laid in tiers like shingles. The roofs are of usual pitch but the stones are laid horizontally; and whether they remain in position by their weight or are laid in cement, I failed to discover. The ridge is finished by a tier laid flat on it, and whether these roofs a 'rait rain or not I am unable to answer. Some houses roofed in this way are three storeys high and of no mean pretensions. Each -? ,*"/ 13 L SWnZERI-AND -;'^^ 145 valley hamlet had its church, and one into which I stepped was gorgeous — a gay image of the Virgin, pictures and crucifix. In ringing for worship (as in Italy) the performance is introduced by a few strokes on a small bell, followed by the principal actor, I did not ascertain the object of those introductory remarks, unless to make the sound of the larger appear more grave and sonorous — at least it has that effect. Women here dress in Italian style, even to their clogs — a wooden sole with leather strap nailed to each side. Nothing short of skill and talent could keep them in position, while the clatter they make on doors and sidewalks is startling. In ascending stairs they are judiciously left at bottom. No stockings are worn and bare toes are seen in front of the straps, which are sometimes patent leather. Next day was Sabbath and 1 could hear target-shooting along the valley. Chapels, crosses and images are frequent along roads, on face of hills and extreme heights. From the frequency of these symbols in mountain lands I have an idea that people inhabiting such places are more devout than dwellers in plains. This is quite natural, as danger quickens devotion and mountains are beset with accident. Those who were gay and thoughtless a minute ago, soon as the ship strikes are shouting for mercy. Dominion history states that in 1760 people of Quebec province became so regardless of spiritual things as to neglect almost entirely the confessional, till a few shocks of earthquake sent them off to the fathers in dozens. It is a flat truism that life is everywhere uncertain; but among mountains danger is ever present — danger from precipice, from falling rocks, landslides, avalanches and perishing in snowstorms. Even the crash of thunder, rioung and romping among the clouds is vastly multiplied in mountain countries. The scenery along here is quite fine; hills less stern and rocky, frequent cascades, ditto hamlet and village. Hills farther on assume the form of individual cones, pitched about like ocean billows, Bellinzona with 2500 people, stands on the top and side of a hill and is capital of Ticino canton. It is Italian in style of buildings, language, dress and appearance of people. The outlook is extremely fine; the north corner of lake Maggiore is seen ten miles to west, framed in green mountains, looking soft and dreamy through a purplish mist. The valley now becomes a broad plain, several miles in width, in many parts a forest of fruit-trees, interspersed with meadow and patches of corn. The whole is shut in by mountams of easy slope, the lower parts clad with vine; higher up, trees and bushes. -^ 146 (»> RAMHLKS IN KUROPK ! Distant hills have an appearance of dreamy blue, while snow peaks are in sight to north and east. Locarno with about 3000 peoi)le is beautifully placed on rising ground at north corner of lake Maggiore, overlooking that body of water. It is only a few miles from the Italian frontier and is in every respect an Italian town. The Madonna church stands on a wooded eminence 450 feet above the lake. It is a curiosity in architec- ture, built in many stories and sections. In the vestibule is a life-size group representing the birth of Christ, babe in manger, its mother, Joseph, oxen, asses and sheep standing round; another group represents the magi offering gifts; a third, the presentation in the temple; a fourth, the last supper; a fifth, taking down from the cross; a sixth the ascension — disciples and women intently gazing at figure of a dove ascending. The church is crowded with images and pictures, that of the descent considered most famous. The altar is extremely ornate, as also ceiling above the choir. The terrace in front presents a most delightful view of varied attractions. " ITALY. Lake Maggiore is 37 miles long, four in average width and over half mile in greatest depth. Nine miles of its north end is in Switzerland and at time of crossing the line an ofilicial asked each passenger if he had contraband goods among his luggage. To this all gave a negative reply and probably they were right; but it occurred to me that anyone having such goods would conceal the fact by denying possession. Except in its south part, the scenery along the lake is delightful. Wooded hills rise steeply from the water, handsome villas along the margin peep- ing from among trees and flowers; farther up, village and hamlet are frequent looking as if built without disturbing a tree, and little to be seen except their church spires rising above the forest. The steamer makes frequent calls at places along shore and at Canobbio an Italian village, a swarm of ragged, dirty children poured down to the landing as if a poorhouse had dis- gorged its contents. Strange that in this beautiful sunny land, its hills clothed with fig, olive, vine and myrtle, the valleys with com and rice, that poverty should be so evident and beggars so frequent. About 1 5 miles from the south end are several small islands, two of which are noted and formerly belonged to the Borromeo family. About two centuries ago one of them erected a splendid chateau on Isola Bella and converted the bare rock into beautiful gardens rising in terraces 90 feet above the lake ITALY «47 and planted with magnolias, cypress, orange and lemon trees, laurels, oleanders and cedars. Shell grottos, fountains and statues are among the beauties of the place. The chateau is ^ richly decorated and contains a numerous collection of pictures. Isola Madre is also arranged in lerraces and scarcely less hand- some. Another island of the group is entirely taken up by fishermen. From this part of the lake the Penine Alps appear to west in mantles of white. I stopped at J.uino on July 28, a small stylish place on east of Maggiore, with a statue of Garibaldi on the esplanade. From here a railway 10 miles long and 24-inch wide leads to lake Lugano, following a tortuous gorge and springing from side to side of a rushing torrent. * Hills are covered with young beeches, which on growing to size of small fence-poles are cut into lengths of 18 inches and bound in fagots, even to the smallest twigs. Villages are perched high on the mountains and church bells sound grandly among those hills and glens. Women and children are frequently met canying creels or loads of brushwood. As we approached the lake I noticed persons in uniform a short distance apart, with sentry- box near by. They were customs officials, watching for persons carrying smuggled goods across the line. In due time we reached Lugano and presently took shipping for the town of like name, over a dozen miles off. It was night before we reached, and tho the day was hot the sun had no sooner dis- appeared than the air got piercing cold. This was my experi- ence on ail Italian lakes. Maggiore and Como are 24 miles apart and Lugano is mid- way between. It is 18 miles long, scarcely a mile wide and more tortuous than a fish-hook. The lake is part in Italy and part in Switzerland, causing one's impedimenta to be frequently looked into. One forenoon my slim stock of valuables was here examined on three occasions. Besides the town of Lugano, about a dozen villages are ranged along shore where there is any kind of foot-hold. The slop'ls are densely wooded and hamlets arc frequent — from one point I counted at least a dozen. Places however small have their temple, and often nothing can be seen from below except the church spire. Lovely villas and fine hotels are frequently perched high up, or showing beautifully among the foliage. Roads skirt the margin, generally cut into the almost perpendicular rock or through tunnels. In other places they are supported on walls built up from the water. Telegraph wires extend everywhere along the I P" 148 RAMllLES IH EUROPE margin. Church bells start ringing at 5 a. m, and sound grandly among those glens and defiles. Pictures are occasion- ally seen on outside walls of dwellings and churches. The town of Lugano with 6000 people, on west margin of the lake, is capital of Ticino canton. It is a favorite resort of toupsts and has many fine hotels. One immense block is six storeys high with probably 400 apartments. One of the former monasteries is now a hotel. Near the town a cone of limestone rises about 3000 feet, with a hotel perched on its summit — a situation perilous as one might dream after a late supper. In early part of the day the Penine Alps (60 miles off) appear like V. hite clouds above the horizon to west. For several miles, one has an excellent view of the lake, resembling a great ditch, the sides steep as an ordinary roof. The scenery to Como (some 20 miles by rail) is quite attractive. The acacia, growing each side the track, is apparently much at home. Its rich green foliage is handsome, but I often wished it in Iceland, as it effectually shuts out the view. f Como, at soum extremity of the lake, has about 26,000 people and surrounded by hills clothed with olive and chestnuts. Old parts of the town are narrow and unclean; the suburbs are fine, with grand public buildings. The cathedral (entirely of marble) is 400 years old and among the finest in north Italy. The town hall (700 years old) is also noted. Como was the birth-place of the elder and younger Pliny (A. D. 23 and 62), and also of Volta, the pioneer electrician, born in 1745, died 1826. A lofty statue of him stands near the harbor, and one was unveiled in Pavia in 1878. Lake Como is 30 miles long, about two miles wide, 1900 feet in greatest depth, its south end cleft in two parts, each about 17 miles. It is framed by mountains mostly wooded, some of ihem rising 8500 feet. Alon-^ its shores are about three dozen hamlets, besides many gay \ lias owned by the aristocracy of Milan and other places. As on the mountain slopes by Lugano, villages are nestling among the forests of walnut and chditnut; occasionally one sees a dozen from the same spot, and however small, each has its church. Some of these are far from habitations, perched aloft in places seemingly impossible of access. Steamers are thick on the lake and at one time we had three scudding abreast in friendly con- test. Towards the north, scenery is wild and barren — gray limestone peaks rising 7000 feet and patches of snow on their summits. 1'ho the day was hot, the air got piercing cold at once the sun went from sight. ;:,ter a com- bination of sights and sounds more calculated for pure enjoy- ' ment. A small neat Episcopal church stands on a lovely spot behind the town, erected by his father in memory ot a young Knglishman who died here sometime ago. He lies buried near '< the church, and the small cemetery is open for English persons who may die in these parts. /;■ j ..,>{ >, / . • mj^ im; i.;!. ' On July 3 1 St, I set out by steamer for Lecco, ai small town at end o^ the east arm as Como is on the west. For the first part the scenery was similar to that already described. About half dozen miles from Ballagio the mountains become solid rock, with a faint shade of green on their surface. Along here I counted 14 stacks of brushwood near the shore. The brush is bound in sheaves like grain, made into stacks and carefully thatched. The business appears to be important in this section, but I am unable to state to what use the material is applied. Towards Lecco the mountains became individual cones, with scarcely any connexion with each other. Lecco has about 7500 ^ 1 «ople, standing by the lake where it is half mile in width. From here I took train for Milan, di.stance about 30 miles. Mountains at their base terraced for grapes, the upper parts clear limestone. Villages, churches and chapels numerous, acacia growing with dissipated luxuriance each side the track and shutting out the pleasures beyond. I noticed along here a church on the most daring and dangerous mountain spur I had yet witnessed. How the materials were got to such a place I can form no conception. The valley is about a league wide and the country is covered with fruit-trees, corn generally growing ' among them. The land is gradually becoming level — churches are numerous but no houses in sight. The white summit of Monte Rosa and others appear above the horizon to north-west. When within 20 miles of Milan the country became level as Holland, clothed with vine, figs, peaches, citron, olive and orange.''! i, ■ « ' > This is Lombardy and perhaps a few words about it might M ISO RAMKLES IN EUROPE be proper. At beginning of our era the Lombards were living in north Germany, and ?.fter inany vicissitudes, late in the 6th century they crossed the Alps, established themselves between the river Po and the mountains, fixed their capital at Pavia and gave name to that section of country. Late in the 8th century Charlemagne included Lombardy among his dominions and in less than three centuries all trace of language and people dis- appeared. In later times the country has been successively part of Austria and Italy, since (860 belonging to the latter. Its population is about 4,000,000 and its yearly production of silk is valued at about $20,000,000. Milan with 250,000, is one of the richest as well as greatest manufacturing centers in Italy. Till recent times it was surrounded by walls and bastions, now partly levelled they form promenades. The principal streets are wide, well paved and contain handsome buildings; like Brussels, the place is not inaptly called ' little' Paris.' A parade ground of 120 acres adjoins the citadel, with a fine arch at the opposite end. The town has extensive bar- racks and new erections going up were apparently for the use of troops. Its cathedral is however the crowning glory ot Milan, next to St. Peter's at Rome the largest and finest in Italy. It is entirely of white marble, Gothic style, area 480x^80 feet, central dome 200 feet, sunnounted bv a tower and spire 350 feet from the pavement. Besides the central, there are 106 turrets and spires, and (it is said) 4500 pinnacles and statues. The roof has very low pitch and covered with greai marble slabs an inch or two thick. From the tower a gorgeous view is presented — to north the snow-covered Alps, to south the Apennines. It has been in course of building over 500 years and in use four centuries. Even now the visitor hears the faint click of chisels, but in the dim light it is difficult to locate the mechanics. The nave rises 150 feel from the floor, is of great width, has double aisles to right and left, and supported by 52 massive columns. The church is altogether too dark, while the nave appears too broad for the aisles. The great columns that are in harmony with one, seem entirely out of proportion with the others. The ceiling of marble is painted to represent open work. The high altar is less gorgeous than in buildings of small importance. Several cardinal hats are suspended in one of the aisles. A marble figure repesents St. Bartholomew flayed alive with the skin thrown over his shoulder. It is apparently of great age and is an extraordinary work. An ancient porphry^ sarcophagus serves as font. The many art treasures coijtained ITALY »S» in this grand building are seen to poor advantage owing to the dim religious light coming through windows of double-extra stained glass. St. Ambrogio church, about 800 years old, has many frescoes and is crowded with tombs. The high altar is extremely hand* some with golden front and magnificent canopy above it. The jjulpit is of marble open work and very fine. A magnificent'* statue (Carrara marble) of Pius IX., in miter and canonicals, stands ■ near the door. In this church Lombard kings and German em- ■ l)erorsfvere invested with the iron crown, preserved since time > of Barbarossa. There are over 30 principal churches in the city, besides scores of less account. In the church of ' plenary indulgence' a painting behind the high altar is intended to represent the Almighty. On a paved square in front is a statue of Alexander Manson — for what distinguished, I failed to dis- cover. In front of the cathedral is a large paved square, flanked on the north by the arcade or gallery of Victor Em- manuel, considered the finest in Europe, built in 1865 at cost of $1,500,000. It covers several acres, rises to 180 feet, roofed with glass and at night lighted by 2000 gas jets. It forms a delightful promenade, with a succession of brilliant stores and decorr.ted with statues of 24 noted Italians. La Scala theater, biiltover 100 years ago, has seating capacity for 3000 and is rated among the finest in Europe. A hospital dating back four centuries is said to relieve about 20,000 patients yearly and considered among the largest of that class. The city has museums and picture galleries with art treasure from che brush of Raphael, da Vinci and Titian, considered above value. I visited the ' new cemetery ' a few hours before sunset. It was a holy-day and crowds in gay attire were promenading the city. My route was along the old city walls, now partly levelled. The ditch still contains water; trees grow luxuriously from the wall and contrast agreeably with surrounding conditions. The cemetery gate is extremely pretentious and probably cost a half million. The enclosure is of good size and not kept in such a state of painful neatness as Mount Auburn or Greenwood, while the monuments would be mere pigmies alongside the colossal shafts in Laurel Hill by the Schuylkil. Not a few of the stones are cut to represent the deceased; others have a photo inserted in the marble under class cover. Many inscriptions showed intensity of feeling — in short were gushing. After a reasonable survey I ascended the terrace. The sky was clear, with two vagrant clouds in the west, perfectly still and of softest amber. / If yil i ;i ! 1 i ,'i.i 1 I 1 V If;- 2 ' 1 V, 1 'V 1 152 RAMFU.ES IN RUROPF, The sun appeared a disc of hurnished copper floating in a sea of gold; Kn()W-c:apped summits of the I'ennine range like piled-up clouds beneath. The stillness was almost oppressive-— not a bird chirped and the cricket's tiny horn was hanging useless. A band was playing half a mile off and the soft boom of cannon came from greater distance. The moments were diamond and with the pile of a Rothchild what would I pay to have them continue. Hut they would not i)ause for love or money. The burnished disc was now skimming the snow-peaks — can nothing be done to retard it? I glance to east ami the gloom Wi-p ad- ""t^ vancing — the marbles below appear dimly. Again 1 look west — the last polished shaft came straight from behind an icy cone and in an instant vanished. Hut the two small clouds held their place and their color— they are yet enjoying sunlight. 1 felt entranced and to surroundings unconscious. Suddenly a shouting among the graves disturbed my reverie; another shout equally harsh sounded as echo. What could it mean — as in scripture time were persons bereft of reason holding revels among the tombs? I peered with alarm into the ne« ropolis and saw two men swinging their arms and shouting. My common- sense had by this time got back and whispered — ' they are custodians warning loiterers to leave before closing the portals.' At 5 a. m. August ,^rd, I left for Venice, distance 200 miles due east. The sun was appearing above the Carnic Alps, dimly visible to north-east. A white mist overspread the ground, clinging to e;u*th. The country was dead-level, and largely taken up with such fruit-trees as already mentioned. Hedges are tall, untrimmed and avenues of poplars frequent. The land- scape has the appearance of a young forest and tho beautiful enough, one square mile looks like another. Birds are singing in hedges — a race altogether new to me in voice and feather. Hay was being secured, prol)ably two or three crops having pre- ceded. The district (Lombardy) has a complete system of irrigation and a man can soak his fields whenever he wishes — numbers were in that condition. Wide shallow streams are frequent; some river-beds are now dry, tho seemingly important when in full water. Ditches and canals form almost a network, with a row of shade trees each side. Lombardy must have been in ancient times a sea bottom. The soil is drab color, 6 to 8 inches deep, and below that a bed of rounded whitish pebbles about the size and shape of hen eggs. These are dug along the railway and carried off on cars to be used for pavement in cities. The business appears to be extensive, judging from the ITALY «5^ many gangs we passed. Tho the country is a forest of fruit and ornamental trees, wood for any use is wanting. i«ranite is split like fence rails, from thfee%o four inches sqiure, any length up to 14 feet and used for gate posts and arhois on which grape- vine are dressed. Railway sleepers, after being subjected to some process that makes them entirely black, are covered with an iron mantle. Oxen are used for plowing and 1 imagined myself quite a distance east on observing one-handled plows, while the driver carried a goad in the other. Threshing-floors are outside, made smooth and hard as pavements. Tall towers are often seen, no doubt belonging to churches and these to villages or towns. At Brescia (60 miles east of Milan) we are close to the mountains, and for some distance the country is undulating, soil poor and vegetation withered. Twenty miles from Brescia, lake Garda is reached, continuing to left for a dozen miles — its shores lined with towns, villages and hamlets. The country again becomes flat and we pass a station inscribed Roma ('am/higna. Verona, 106 miles east of Milan, is .sur- rounded by a number of circular forts. About 1 1 we pass a gang of laborers taking their siesta under shade of trees. The thunder of cars disturbed them not. The country is again per- fectly level, presenting no great variety of outlook. At length we reach the Adriatic; the r/ater looked shoal and the iron-horse swerved neither to right nor left, but dashed ahead. After 2^ miles of causeway we enter a city, came to a stand and presto — in Venice. A hotel bummer was soon on my track, arrange- ments were made for lodgings, but instead of a cab I entered a gondola. After proceeding about a mile and turning a dozen sharp angles, we arrived at the hotel fronting on the grand canal and opposite St. Maria Salute. The proprietor graciously stands at the door and offers assistance in landing. -i.' 1 had left Milan before breakfast time and neglected to lay up stores for the passage. It was now 4 p. m. and for some 20 hours I'd been fasting; but carnal wants were laid aside and>i> could hardly refrain from shouting — • Where is St. Mark! where is* the ducal palace, where is the bridge ol sighs, where, O where's the Rialto! Am I really in Venice, or is this a vision of night to be broke by the first dog that hcwls, or the first cat that screams fire! ' Hunger that clawed fiercely at my inward parts 8 hours ago now was forgotten — I felt like a boy starting out fishing. St. Mark was not far away and I found it without trouble — spending there an hour or two, gazing about with others. In the evening from a balcony I watched the sable 13 W »S4 HAMBLES IN EUROPE gondolas gliding serenely along the water — ther? was no wind and the moon was in its best condition. The canal is lined here wuh hotels and many were, like fhyself, out watching. The lute, guitar and mandolin of former times have passed away with the golden age of Venice. The canal is silent now excepi the soft plash of a gondolier's paddle. Midnight is the usual time for comng ashore, bu4 not a few remain much latet. As was proper and meet, my first night here was sleepless owing to heat and the incessant demands of mosquitoes. The usual burnt offering of paper appeased them not, as they resumed their bloody work with greater vigor. Next day I demanded a formal interview with mine host, explained the grievance, was remanded to another room where under a canopy of net I reposed in peace — no hungry mosquito daring to disturb me with twanging horn or pearly tooth. Few places have a stranger history than Venice and it may not be amiss to give here a brief outline. In 452, about the time Saxons invaded Britain, Attila with unnumbered hordes was destroying life and property in Europe. To escape the carnage, a number of persons took refuge on marshy islands in the north-west corner of the Adriatic. Few places could offer less favorable conditions, but then (as now) people fought hard for existence. Salt from se^^ watei was the first commodity sold, the business gradually increasing to respectability of commerce. Their home being in a sense on the waves, they developed into a maritime people with success that now reads like fiction. Their seamen were the most skilful and brave, their flags were seen on all waters. Venice soon rose to the head in almost everything — in commerce, i. art, in mechanics. To say that a thing came from Venice was to declare it the latest improve- ment, the best of its kind. What Tyre had been a thousand years b. c, Venice became (and more) two thousand later. A city had risen on those mud i^ les, in splendor surpassing the dreams of Aladdin. A description of them to-day would read like a myth, did not enough remain to show their former attrac- tions. But with success came a desire for conquest. In 737 they captured Ravenna, a city about 100 miles distant. In 809 they repulsed the fleet of Pippin, a Frankish prince, and 20 years later remains of St. Mark were taken from infidels in Egypt and a building for them erected. In u 7 7 Pope Alexander rewarded Venice for service to the Roman see with a ring for espousal to the Adriatic. This pageant was performed on Ascension day with surprising pomp: the doge proceeded in a ?fj A ^Ai.!i;vll ii't. ITALY .iUt.' i55 1 H r 1 1 State galler)' (i5wt<:<»/i<.4ii7) loo feet long, decked in the most gorge- ous manner, accompanied by great men in gondolas and feluccas. When the brilliant procession arrived at a channel the doge dropped into it a ring, with the remark — • we wed thee with this ring in token of our true and perfect sovereignty.' ^^ Owing to its supremacy at sea the crusading period gave the republic a lift in its career of conquest. In 1201 Venice under- took to land in Palestine 30,000 troops and half as many horses, for which service it was to receive 85,000 marks, probably equal to a quarter million dollars. The account was not settled and the doge (Dandolo) induced his people to attack Zara, a towB o( Dalmatia in rebellion against Venice. The place was captured and the Venetians advanced towards Constantinople under pretence of deposing a usurper. The brave Dandolo, over 90 years and blind, led the attack by sea and was first to spring ashore at end of the contest. The Byzantine empire was now divided between the Venetians and Latins; Dandola was olTered the crown but accepted instead the title — ' Rumanian despot.' He died four years later, his illustrious family giving four doges to the republic. These successes stirred the jealousy of Genoa and 130 years of strife ensued between the two cities. By the enterprise of Marco Polo and other daring sons, successes were achieved abroad; but the government had become corrupt, all being excluded from the grand council except peers of the 'golden book.' The republic was for many years at war with varied success, till in 1 498 the Portuguese discovered the cape route to India, which gave a death blow to declining Venice. Skipping over centuries of decay — the republic begun with Attila was ended by Napoleon who in 1797 entered Venice, never trodden by hostile foot during its 1300 years of existence. In the same year (1797) it was ceded to Austria, annexed to Italy in 1805, restored to Austria 9 years later. The Manin revolt (in 1847-8) cost that empire about 20,000 lives and its reverses in a campaign against Prussia (1866) led to the city and territory of Venice being incorporated with Italy — Victor Emmanuel making his entry on November 7th, 1866. At first the government of Venice was by tribunes or elective chiefs, the form changed in 697 to a republic, the chief magis- trate being known as ' doge ' — from Latin dux, a leader; whence our English word duke. At this time the doge was actual sovereign for life, which was not always allowed to end naturally. About half the number were either slain by judicial means or by an assassin, while not a few were blinded and banished. In ! ri ■■'■S^^^ ; ,^' ?^^:' li; i t '1 im ' ftmi ^W ! ^B 'bHI' H f y 156 RAMHI.FS IN RUROPR !i7i the doge's imwer was reduced and in 1310 the office l)cct\mc a mere tignicnt. The laHt doge was elected in 1788, the nttice ccaning with fall of the republic in 1797, as Htated. Venice (Italian, Vcne/.ia) is about seven mile.) in circuit nnd is cut in two by the grand canol, winding in double (uuve ihrougl the city. It is from 100 to joo feet wide, spanned by the Rialto and two iron bridges. Besides the main part, two isles over a mile away contain an im))ortant fraction. One has a large cathedral besides glass-works; ihe other has a large church and of course dwellings. Venice does not entirely depend on canals, having narrow lanes three to six feet wide, named m//»*. One acquainted with the placo can traverse it from end to end with- out setting foot into a gondola; yet these nre ih^j readiest means, the horse-cars of Venice. Persons meeting in these ai/ti must fVirn sideways to avoid collision; and did one strut along with hands in pockets the Rlee>es of his coat would soon require patching. (ik)ndilJas are about 16 feet long, three wide at center; sexeral teet of each end are high out of water, the prow (of |)olished metal) rises jauntily some four feet. The craft is decked except six feel in the middle over whii^h is a low awning for shelter. Kxcept the metal prow the whole is glossy black like an old-fashioned coffin. They are calculated to carry two besides the propeller, who stands at his work. They have regular charges, but like cabmen will cheat when opportunity offers. When nearing a corner the driver gives a dismal howl io warn those coming in cx)ntmry direction. On a moon night after a hot day and with a favorite companion the gondola takes first place for enjoyment. The population of Venice was at one time aboi; ^00,000 — now hut little above half these figures, 'i'he city has neiUicr hearse, horse nor carriage. ^The tide ordinarily rises two to three feet, tho on rare occasions five is reached. At high tide the water is level with the door and one can step into or out of a gondola easy as from one room to another. During heat of the day young people spend much time in the water which is almost too warm for comfort. One frequently sees a mother sitting on a doorstep holding three or four cords or lines as if fishing, the other ends tied to waist or neck of as many boys or girls who are learning to swim. In this way they appear as much at home on nea. as ottars. In spite of large sums spent on dretlging. the main channels are gradually filling with matter brought by the Po and other rivers; and tho sitting on the waves, Venice suffers for want of water. Its supply comes from I I. JTAI-Y 1 »57, 67S0 ciHlcrnH and 17 well)*, 450 feet in depth; hut the water in both is ' nHUf{hty.' Venice Wiis long ago famous for its glaNH, an we read that in 67.^ ii stipjihed windows for VVearmouth abbey and over ,^50 years ago it sent as present to the l'icn<;h king a mirror about a fool scfuare, the glass now embedded in the stucco walls of Konlainbleau palace. At present Venetian gla»s fa<-.tories turn out liule (;x< ept beads, oriiamentb and trinketn. The dock-yar(l with four ill shaped marble lions (brought from the Pireus in 16H7) guarding its portaU, was founded in 1104 and in its day was unrivr.lled. Covering 90 acreH, eight centuries ago it usually contained 40,000 sailors and 16,000 shipwrights — for many years reduced to its former shadow. The glory and riches of old Venice reads like a dream -almost incredible. Brick was the material for common buildings, but the rarest stone for others. Along the grand canal were few except noted structures. Krom 1800 to iH«o, it is said that 88 churches and over aoo palaces were d;;r'jolished; of old |>alaceH 6,i| are u.sed as hotels, restaurants and public offices. One of its six theaters had a capacity of 3000 persons. Of its 40 sfpiares, St. Mark's alone deserves the title — bounded on three sides by arcaded palaces and once flagged with marble. In its east end is the cathedral, over 800 years old, a five-domed Komanes{}ue temj*le, with some 500 marble columns, 50 arches, and over an acre of mosr*ic. Marble slabs frorii eastern harems panel its walls, alabaster columns from St. Sophia and marble columns from Solomon's temple adorn the interior. Over its nuin portal stand four horses of gilt bronze that once surmounted the arches of Nero and Trajan at Rome, passed to Constantinople in the fourth century, brought to Venire in 1204, carried ofiF by Napoleon in 1797 and restored in 181 5. 1 avoid the sin of stating that with the space at command I can't do it justice; for of all buildings it appears most unmanageable in the way oi printed description. It is not remarkably large nor unduly exalted — its chief attraction l)eing the wealth of rare marble and expanse of mosaic. About the altai and choir, marbles of some dozen shades and colors are used, while onyx and jasper are among the decorations. It is impossible to form a just idea of its original splendor from present appearance, obscured by centuries of incense smoke. The mosaic consi.sts of figuies from scripture, beginning with the creation and following through to the apo- calypse. The explanations are in I^atin, with rto breik for words, and altogether would make a good-size volume. Behind the altar a surface of about 50 square feet is studded with jewels I •^. t ■ ! 1 J i ii H 158 RAMBLES IN EUROPE set in gold, the aggregate value of which must be enormous. I omit the useless work of attempting to describe the west facade, its areas of mosaic, its porphyry pillars, its wonders of sculpture, its costly marble, the turrets, pinnacles and figures. The belU tower is about 50 yards in front, 40 feet square at bottom, 320 feet high, with golden angel for vane on the apex. The ducal palace stands to south of St. Mark's, founded over a thousand years ago, five times destroyed, but rising with increased splendor after each fire. The style is moresque, sculptured fronts, massive collonades, rooms ceiled with price- less display of Venetian art. The scala dei giganti where doges were crowned; the scala d' ore trodden by none except peers of the ' golden book.' The council room is magnificent in size and appointments; painted ceiling, heavy gilt cornice under which extend as frieze pictures of aU the doges, 88 in number. A dais extends along the east end and on the wall hangs Tintoretto's * paradise,' 84x34 feet, containing over 100 figures and among the largest oil paintings in the world. The throne room is supremely gorgeous; ihe ceiling massive and abundantly gilt, the walls covered by rare works ot Venetian art. A hall in which scions of noble houses received education is very attractive. One of the doors is said to be from St. Sophia. A number of less important rooms are shown, several with marble chimney fronts, highly sculptured. In the corridors are numerous marble busts of doges, generals and admirals, among them Marco Polo and the two Cabots. The state prison stands some dozen feet to east of the palace, a canal passing between. About 20 feet above, a covered (or rather tubular) passage of stone connects the buildings, facetiously called ' the bridge of sighs,' probably because prisoners passing over it to receive sentence and return- ing with words of doom ringing in their ears were not supposed to be in good spirits. Tho of small appearance, a sentimental name and kindred associations have placed it a.iiong the lions of Venice. On the esplanade to front of the palace stand two granite columns perhaps 60 feet high, said to have come from Syria in 1 1 ?o, otte of them crowned with the winged lion of St. Mark. Rialto bridge spanning the grana canal is an impor^-^nt institution, a general center of business, pleasure and gossip. As in the time of William, the greeting is to-day — ' What's new on the Rialto ?' It is of one arch, quite low, with steps ascend- ing each side. A row of a dozen small shops extend along each side which must bring high rent, judging by the crowded state of neighboring places. As all cannot have stands on the bridge, ITALY 159 they strive to get near it as possible. With our wide streets, large stores and plenty of light we cannot imagine the dark holes and corners in which mechanics work and merchants sell — places no larger than generous packing-boxes and with only dim twi-, light at high noon. Even along streets not two yards wide* shoemakers are seen working on the pavement bt»'ore their doors, for the sake of more room and better light. Money there seems to have several times as much value as with us: in other words things are cheaper — fruits in general less than one-sixth of the price here. Photographs 8x9 inches, of buildings and scenery, are sold at less than one dollar per dAen. Of its 99 churches about a score are widely noted. A few of these I will mention. The Jesuit church is superb beyond des- cription. The walls are entirely covered (or shall I say veneered) with black polished marble, inlaid with figures in white so as to represent drapery. To my untutored eye and at a little distance it appeared exactly like black or blue cotton with small white figures. The ceiling is wonderfully fine, particularly above the choir. The altar is extremely imposing, while ten alabaster columns support a gorgeous canopy above it. Pillars along the nave are in part covered with red damask, the rest with inlaid marble to match the walls. The pulpit is large and magni- ficent, of black polished marble, inlaid with white. To one side, what appears to be a large, heavy curtain thrown aside in great folds and masses, is also inlaid marble, so cunningly got up as to deceive the very elect. Much fine sculpture and carving are seen through the church. The tesselated Hoorr, of black and white marble are magnificent. The number of beggars about the door is in striking contrast with the splendor and glory within. The church of Zanipolo was a burying-place of the doges and is 1 ncipally noted by the stupendous memorials to these men. One is indeed reluctant to give the size and magni- ficence of those vast struc ures, the cost of which would almost impoverish .1 city. Think of a monument 80 feet high and about half as ide, no more remarkable for size than for grand, elaborate fini 1, An area of yellow marble (to represent drapery), gold t^ iged and in extent 15x30 feet, held up by col- ossal figures of angels; two equestrian statues and 21 human figures, besides many reliefs — a dozen classic pillars of black marble, 24 feet high and 18 inches thick, forming a support to this vast structure. Several other monuments are nearly as imposing, with over a dozen from 30 to 40 feet high, besides a great number of tombs and tablets. One of the side chapels is V i ''I \^ /jl k — i --t: 1^ I mmk r6o RAMBLES IN EUROPE extremely elegant and expensive. Church of the Scaizi is a marvel ol costly stone from Norway, Greece, the Pyrenees, the Alps and Africa, in columns, statues, doors, altars and monu- ments. The altar is an immense affair, with tortuous pillars of rare beauty. The eight side-chapels are a wonder of inlaid work in jasper and other stone. One almost concludes the object was to show every kind, color and variety of marble used in building or decoration. Church of St. Sebastiano is noted for paintings by Paul Veronese and for containing his tomb. The high altar is extremely gorgeous. Church of the P'rari contains the tomb of Candfa (the noted sculptor) designed by himself. It is the side of a marble pyramid about 40 feet high with seven life-size figures and the winged lion of St. Mark. There is also a large and elegant monument to Titian, about 50 feet high, sur- mounted by a winged lion rampant. Not far off is a monument to the Virgin, perhaps 70 feet high, the central figure being a large and splendidly gilt image under a gay canopy. Six Corin- thian columns and 14 human figures form part of this structure. In another part, a smaller monument represents the crucifixion, the disciples and women standing about. The vhole is sup- ported on black marble pillars. Next to Canova, stands a monu- ment perhaps 80 feet high, an archbishop or pope being the central figure, together with 18 or 20 subsidiary ones. There are in the church many others but little inferior in size and splendor; also many smaller ones, tombs and tablets. A fine marble statue of Nicolo Tomaseo stands near the door, who along with Manin raised in (1847) ^^^ standard of Italian independence. I visited over a dozen churches, all having some special attrac- tions, but it is useless to weary the reader with too much of one subject. They are of various sizes from 150 to 300 feet long and otherwise in proportion; their ages range from 300 U) 700 years. The appearance of many is marred by having the nave pillars joined together near the top with beams of wood or rods of iron — the object being no doubt security. Not a few contain pictures by Titian, Tintoretto, Bellini and Veronese; but I am no critic in art and will neither praise nor traduce on the opinion of others. August 6th I spent at the art gallery without being extremely delighted. Portraits of 80 Venitian artists of note form a kind of frieze around the principal room. From viewing their works they appear to ha(fre copied each other in shade and expression. Nearly all the piptures are of religious subjects, ideals of fancy — the crucifixion, the descent, the ascent, last sup- per, Virgin and child, masses of human-like forms supposed to ITALY l6l represent angels, tangled together, tumbling and squirming in mid air, apparently muscular as giants, monsters in avoirdupois if appearance be a criterian of weight. Pictures of Christ are nearly all disappointing — most of them looking either vicious or silly. The Virgin is often portrayed with extreme sweetness; but I never saw a picture of Christ that entirely pleased me. In most instances instead of according to the artist a premium of fame and fortune, I would have him banished if not beheaded. Then of all intelligent entities artists appear the most hopelessly wanting in general knowledge. If the artist be Italian or Flem- ish, Christ and his disciples appear as their countrymen. In [jictures of the last supper, Christ and apostles are seen sitting straight up at an ordinary table, and before each a decanter and tumbler, a roll of bread (such as is j^mmon in the artist's country), an apple or pear — corresponding badly with the reclining posi- tion, the breaking of bread and passing the cup. When Christ is represented lying in a tomb, soldiers are sleeping at the entrance, tho the scripture distinctly slates they didn't sleep. Kven the moon when represented in early night, is nearly always turned wrong. But like poets, artists may have special licence to turn things up side down to suit their fancy. After spending nearly two weeks at Venice I was about start- ing to south Italy, but extremely hot weather upset my anange- ments, and on August 1 2th I headed back to Milan. VV illows are abundant along first part of the route— two or three dozen shoots (15 to 20 feet long, straight and smooth, from size of a cane to that of fence-poles) growing from each stump. Most of the corn had its leaves and top taken away, the ears stariding as brown stups. I was unable to learn the object of this treat- ment. All Hag stations, but one, along those 200 miles were attended by women. Regular stations have blackboards in front on which are marked the day of week and month, together with time for arrival and departure of trains. An individual house is rarely seen, the people all living in towns and hamlets. Padua, on a fine plain 21 miles from Venice, is ihe first town of any note. It is surrounded by massive fortifications about six miles in circuit; is an old place and under Roman emperors only yielded to the ' eternal city.' Its university was founded 600 years ago and its chief promenade is adorned with 74 statues of distinguished men who had studied within the walls. Among these are Petrarch, Tasso, Ariosto, Savonarola, Sobieski and Gallileo. In 1874 a monument was erected to Petrarch on the 500th anniversary of his death. Livy the historian started life i 15 ! 1 i' ; i '^^H t . ii^B 1 1 BS ■ m !..MM HI 162 RAMBLKS IN FDROPE here b. c. 59. The Pallaza Ragione of the nth century has a great hall 273x90 feet and 78 high, unsupported by pro]) or piliur. It has few equals. The place has several noted churches, ijesides the oldest botanic garden in Europe. The population is about 45;Ooo. My next stay was at Veronaj 72 miles from Venice, at foot of the Tyrolese Alps, on both sides of the Adige, crossed here by five bridges. The town is imrtly surrounded by ramparts, besides a number of forts on the adjoining hills. The Roman arnpi- theater built under Dioclesian in 284 is the chief lion. It is over a quarter mile round the outside, the arena 248x147 feet and 45 tiers >of seats, calculated to hold 20,000 people. The outside range of arches (106 feet high) were, except a small part, thrown down by an earthquab* 700 years ago. A massive gate- way erected under Gallienus" in 265, spans one of the busiest streets. Porta Leoni is another Roman arch erected in the time of Vespasian. Gothic tombs of the five Scaligers who flourished some 500 years ago and who were for over a century presidents of the republic, are among the notable objects. Some of them are quite large and show a wonderful amount of sculpture. Churches in Verona are mostly Gothic; that of S. Zenone is Romanesque and of fine proportions. The bronze door and campanile dating from the nth. century are curiosities. At time of my visit the church was ablaze with gold- fringed hangings for some extraordinary fete on the morrow. I never witnessed such a brilliant display of bunting. The drapery about the high altar was of untold splendor. Several other churches repay a visit. In S. Borodino the clouded marble (in one of the side altars) is made o rei)resent flowers and human figures. Among noted monuments is a fine ntatue of Victor Emmanuel, lately erected. In September 17 th, 1882, the river overflowed the town to a depth of from three to 14 feet, since which a protecting wall of granite has been constructed along the stream. The work is among the finest masonry I ever witnessed. The Adige is second large';t river in Italy 250 miles long from its birth in the Rhaetian Alps. It is about 200 yards wide and very rapid. Along its course it turns over 200 flour and rice mills. The water-wheels are large and are turned by force of the current. Verona is an interesting place; its streets are narro^r but clean and well paved. It is crowded with soldiers giving it a gay, lively appearance. I left for Brecia about noon — hot day and fine scenery, to north-east terraced hills, rising to mountains a few miles off; to ITALY <(■ 163 south, a level plain with fruit-trees and corn sharing the same pasture. About 2 p. m. a violent thunderstorm came howling from the north — the wind rioting among the trees as if intending to twist off their heads. Rain jmured and hail followed threat- ening to riddle the car windows like goose shot. It lasted half an hour, giving the landscape a white surface. The train stood stationary during the shower. Hihs to north soon got a mantle of white, looking blue through the mist. Lake Oard. a short distance to right was lashed to fury as in days of the Mantuan poet. The afternoon was dark, cold and chilly with occasional rain. Mountains to north resemble gigantic ocean billows turn- ed to stone. As we advance they become clothed with vege- tation, farther on, dotted with handsome villas among trees. Brescia is on a hillside, facing south, the summit crowned with a fort. To the horizon southwards the country is level as the ocean, an unbroken forest of fruit-trees here and there, a tall church spire piercing the azure and showing the site of town or village. To north, hills and mountains with hamlets at base; farther up, vineyards, with limestone crags for apex finish. Vege- tation has now a withered appearance, but in May and June the outlook must be gorgeous. The town is rather clean and has some lengthy arcades. It has several handsome churches, and the city hall of white marble, erected over 300 years ago, is a magnificent buildmg, indicating the opulence of Brescia at that time. A Roman temple built in reign of Vespasian is now a museum, the most noted object being a bronze statue of victory excavated in 1826. A cemetery about a mile from town is con- sidered among the most interesting in Italy. The tombs of saints must possess some virtue, if piles of crutches be a criterion. Brescia was a place of note before the Punic wars. In 1512 it was taken by the French who (it is said) butchered 40,000 of the people. The present population is given at 38,000. Next day I returned to Milan and on the 15th I went to Pavia, 20 miles off. Streams and canals are numerous, a row of trees each side. Fine avenues frequent, the country largely under corn and pasture; great herds of cattle (yellow or white) in splendid condition. They are always accompanied by a herd or keeper. Threshing-floors in fields, level, hard and smooth as a pavement. Pavia on Ticino river near where it enters the Po, was till recently surrounded by walls with 100 towers. A handsome arch is passed between the railway station and city; and a covered bridge 230 yards long (built in 1350) connects Pavia with a suburb. The cathedral is 400 years old and still I .1 ' i i i 164 RAMBLES IN EUROPE unfinished. It contains a superb monument in white marble to St. Augustine. There arc several other churches of note, one dating from the i i th century. Pavia was cai)ital of Lombardy from 13 to II centuries ago; its university is rated the oldest in Europe. Population of the city, about 30,000. Five miles off is the famous Carthuiian m ^nastery established 500 years ago by Visconti duke of Milan, as expiatory offering for killing his uncle. The church is of great magnificence, with 12 chapels, fine monuments, splendid altar and a very tall tapering spire. It is entirely of white marble and lavishly set off with sculpture. August 1 6 th, left for Turin 100 miles lowest. The country is perfectly level; beautiful avenues frequent; oxen plowing — ihe implement with one handle, the attendant wielding a goad in his left. Magenta, a score miles west of Milan, has about 6000 people. Here in June 4th, 1859, Italians and French defeated the Austrians and forced them to give uj) Lombardy. A tuie monument (erected by Napoleon III.) commemorates the battle. Novara (with 30,000) is five miles to west, strongly fortified, has ruins of old castle, an r i th century cathedral, a beautiful theater, monuments to Cavour and Alberto. Here the Austrians defeated the Sardinians in 1849. I'O'" miles the country along here is taken up with rice — nothing else seen. It was being cut with scythe and sickle. Diiches everywhere full of water and the ground flooded one or two inches. Next we come to corn and nothing else, extending for miles without break. A great num- ber of streams were passed since leaving Milan, all running south-east and tributaries of the Po. I never saw a country so evenly watered. Some ri/er beds were dry and others low la funds. Towns are frequent and tall church spires are seen every few minutes indicating others not in sight. j • Turin (Italian Torino) has 230,000 people, is about 100 miles west of Mi' an, stands on the river Po, crossed here by three stone bridges and an iron suspension. A fine granite embank- ment extends along the river, here 250 yards wide. The city stands on a plain at foot of the Cottian Alps, and was capital of Italy from 1859-65. It is handsome and clean, the streets running at right angles as in Charlottetown, the newer parts indeed compare favorably with any place. A parade-ground is at edge of the city and a lovely park along the river to west. The railway station is large, massive and apparently built regardless of cost. The city is well supplied with public buildings, and few places are so overgrown with monuments and statues. The old palace has a plain brick exterior but handsome inside. One of ITALY >^5 the wings is a mujieum for arms and armor, the collection the • small being in excellent condition. A fowling-piece on revolver , principle, wheel-lock, 1 2 chambers and centuries old, is among the curios. Polazo Madama is a castellated mediaeval structure of some interest. The cathedral is not large but rich and showy; the altar fixings are all of silver and the organ-loft is brilliant as gilt and gold can make it. The instrument is set off with mas- - sive gilt ornaments and covered with gold cloth. I visited several other churches, all more or less handsome — also an Episcopal church and Jewish synagogue. The Superga is a large, imposing temple on top of a hill 2250 feet high, right across the river, with seminary for priests adjoining. It is a conspicuoua object, seen from afar and reached by a mountain railway. A convent stands on a lower height. Hills across the river are everywhere clad with trees, residences of the great and rich nestling among them. The town is supplied with street- cars, some lines driven by steam. Turin has extensive trade and is a brisk manufacturing center, principally silk. I see it stated that one match factory employs 600 hands and turns out daily over 10,000,000. I counted 24 women washing clothes in the river, besides another detachment farther up stream. No labor-saving appliance here, not even the corrugated zinc. In the station, all posters, notices and time-tables had each a govern ment stamp. About 30 miles west of Turin are the Vaudois valleys, inhabited by an interesting people known as Waldenses. For centuries they suffered terrible persecutions till in 1 848 the king of Sardinia gave them equal rights with his other subjects. They number about 26,000, making some 40 congregations. Now I'm off for Geneva about 150 miles, direction north by west. For an hour or two there is no striking scenery, tho the landscape is interesting and pleasant. About 9 a. m. we arrive at mountains — outskirts of the Graian Alps. Chapels and images now appear, and ruined castles perched on mountain spurs recall the Vaterland. Vine culture on lower heights; towns, villages and hamlets thick along the valley. Snow-peaks close at hand — houses roofed with stones as in Ticino canton, some of them four storeys and quite handsome. The valley has now almost ; narrowed to a gorge with a glacier stream wrestling and strug- gling among its wreckage. Swiss style of houses begin — mount- ain torrents, wild gorges, high bridges, tunnels. Base of mount- ains terraced for barley and small patches cleared among rocks. Women cut the meagre harvest with sickles and carry it home on their backs in sheets to prevent shrinkage. Village and ham- 16 i 'I #' ».'3l 1 i % » 4a 1 66 RAMBLES IN EUROPS lets are fairly crowding each other, but how tWi people live is a problem — no visible means except those tiny spots of bailey, supplemented by chestnuts. The sceneiy has been quite fine for some distance, and when at best we rush into the darkness of Mount Cenis tunnel. This tube is over eight miles long, and was finished in 1870 after 12 years of picking. • • • In 23 minutes we emerge into light of Savoie, now part of the French republic. On entering the tunnel we badt farewell to Italy with its com and its wine, its flowers and fruits, its gorge- ous fanes, the soft hue of its mountains, the smooth tongue of its people. But I am brought to halt by the douane inquiring what treasures I brought from the land of rich sunsets, whereupon my entire possessions (worth perhaps a dollar fifty) are spread out at his feet. The wealth failed to dazzle him, and finding nothing rare, he went round to the next. The station is large and im- posing, with but little else. The heat was scorching, and while almost fried to a crisp, one was provoked to see the cool gar- ments of winter spread in patches above. Harvest in progress and much the same as just mentioned — bits of barley on terraces, women cutting and carrying hor- the garnered treasures. The valley is wild and scenery rathe, ittractive — mountains topped with limestone of various hue; cascades and torrents dashing madly against rocks and boulders; churches and < hapels on giddy heights; a large gilded cross on mountain peak glittering in the sunshine. This is Savoie, separated fron Italy by the Graian and Penine Alps in which are Mount Blanc, great St. Bernard, Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. The district is entirely Swiss in character and swarming with people who are rated industrious and honest. We are now at Aix-les-Bains, a small, high toned watering-place of 2000 people, on a mountain slope, a lake below in a deep valley. Its sulphur springs were noted in Roman times and a small triumphal arch built in the 3rd or 4th century is yet stand- ing. In mornings people are out in crowds to imbibe the water; and invalids (looking like heaps ot clothes) are carried on hand- barrows by stout, bare-footed [)orters. After parboiling and rub- bing, they are brought back to their lodgings. Queen Victoria used to visit here till another place won her affections. Aix is quite attractive with palace hotels and charges calculated to make one's hair stand on end unless he is bald-headed. The public garden is small but of extreme beauty — great banks of flowers, artificial lake with island and band-stand, gravelled i '0 ITALY 167 walks and fountains. Left for C-Mieva at noon, the track for some distance skirting the lake; then mountains each side, lower parts dressed with grape, and limestone crags on summit. The track now crosses a wide alluvial plain, all niea low and appa- rently never tilled, producing a short thick variety of grass. Tho Sunday afternoon, the place swnrmed with men and women, cutting, gathering and hauling — probibly two dozen ox-teams and thrice as many people. Then follow unever country in bluffs and ramparts — tunnels, deep cuttings, gorges spanned by high bridges. Farther on, peasants gathering and haulng. From Turin to Mount Cenis, 20 tunnels; thence to Geneva, 20 tunnels. Geneva, the farthest west and smallest canton in Switzerland, is almost entirely surrounded by France and would little more than form a square of ten miles. Its population is 100,000 about equal numbers Protestant and Catholic; French is entirely spoken and nearly 40 per cent of the land is used fn grape culture. Geneva town is at west of the lake where the Rhone leaves with speed of a mill-race. The river is 160 yards wide and crossed by six bridges. The town makes good appearance from the water, and for some distance each side the lake, slopes are studded with handsome residences and villas. There is no lack of hotels, many of them large and pretentious. The house in which Calvin lived from 1543-64 is in good repair and easily discovered. The great reformer forbade to erect a monument over his grave, so that his resting-place is unknown. The house where Rousseau was born in 17 11 and died 1778 is in good con- dition. On a small pleasant square called * the English garden,' stands the national monument, a bronze group on a lofty pedestal, to commemorate the union (in 1814) of Geneva with the Swiss confederacy. There is also a bronze fountain, seemingly cast from the same pattern as Brewer fountain on Boston common. The cathedral is a grand Romanesque fane, 800 years old but fixed up later It has fine stained glass and several tombs, the most noted being that of 1 lenry de Rohan, leader of the Pro- testants under Louis XIII., till slain in 1638; also his statue in plaster to replace that destroyed in 1798. A fine carved pulpit contains a chair used by Calvin. There is an excellent organ, but no decorations of any kind. A handsome English church is located on a pleasant spot near the lake. A Russian church somewhat outside the city is a showy building with five gilt cupolas and spires. Inside it is a marvel of magnificence. A new theater somewhat resembling the grand opera in Paris is a delightful building — the material, freestone of soft greenish hue. !9 ri : I HI w used as prison and court-room. East of Lausanne for 10 or 12 miles, slopes from the lake are terraced and vine-clad, village and hamlets frequent. Farther on the land rises steepiy almost to mountains, sides arc thickly wooded, hotels and villas in choice situations. A cogged railway ascends to a mountain terrace a thousand feet above. Along the water are two beautiful towns (Vevy and Montreux) besides a number of smaller places — mostly fine hotels with every convenience one gets in Paris. Indeed for about half dozen miles along here it would be trifling exaggeration to say that hotels were crowding each other. It is a great focus for tourists and one of the most delightful spots in that country of wonders. Steamers are dash- ing back and forth, crowded with people; and at night the sheen of electric lights dances cheerfully on the lake. A little farther east is Chillon, a kind of feudal castle of great strength, erected 650 years ago by a count of Savoie as bulwark for his posses- sions. It stands on a rock 60 feet from shore, connected by a drawbridge and overhung by a precipitous mountain to north. But it is best known as state prison and the traveller views it with interest as tangible relic of old-time tyranny — a kind of private inquisition. The reception room is ceiled with great oak panels, rude pictures along the wall, a chimney 10 or t2 feet wide with fire-dogs to match; the courtroom in which persons received sentence; a small chapel with carved stalls and altar. The dungeon is a long, arched vault, partly cut in the solid rock, in two aisles separated by a row of seven massive pillars. Here may be seen the slanting rock on which prisoners slept (if they could) the night before execution, the beam from which they were hanged and the pillar of torture. Bonnivard (prior of St. Victor, Geneva) was confined for six years (1530 to 36) by the duke of Savoie for entertaining liberal views in respect to religion and politics. The pillars to which he was fastened, staple, chain and iron collar may be seen; also the stone floor hollowed by his footsteps. In the pillar are cut the names of Byron, Victor Hugo, Dryden, Peel, Keats, George Eliot and others. No wonder Bonnivard rejoiced on hearing the Bernese forces by land and the Genevan gallies by water coming to set him free. Since coming into possession of Switzerland the place »7 i jj,:l ll -MBI mm t |9 1 I.WM m li i 170 RAMBLES IN EUROPE has been a depot for military stores and prison for political offenders. At time of visiting I was told thai ten were immured. Villeneuve in spite of its name is an old place at end of the lake, receiving little attention from tourists. The valley for a dozen miles up is a league broad, perfectly level, carefully tilled and densely peopled — juci ,ing by the frequency of town and village. It is enclosed by high rock ramparts and distant snow-peaks are usually in sight. At Martigny (about 20 miles up) the valley turns sharply north-east and continues over a mile wide for 1 o or 1 2 leagues. The scenery 's not remarkable tho not lame. The strangest feature I noticed were scores ot conical hills 50 to 150 feet high, a good deal like hay-stacks, tho not so steep or regular in outline. They have no vegetation except an occasional pine tree, while a few had ruins of castles. The railway tunnelled through one and cut deeply into another, showing the material to be gray sand and pebbles. The valley gets wilder as we advance and is much torn and overwhelmed by landslides. Churches are frequent, often perched on dangerous heights, their costly appearance contrasting with the mean habitations. This is Valais cantor and on the whole bears the impress of poverty and want. Women carry manure in creels and are at other kinds of slavish work — mostly carrying a load of some- thing. Their yellow, withered appearance indicates want and hard usage. Goitre and cretinism, which seem to result from poor lodgings and living, are frequent in this section. Zion is the most important center, has about 5000 people, and is capital of Valaij. It is extremely picturesque and has some good build- ings. A pointed hill over 2000 feet has ruins of a castle; an- other of equal height is crowned with a seminary for priests. There is also an imposing cathedral, I don't remember seeing clergymen so numerous as in this valley, and from their well-kept appearance they seem to get the corn and wine, the cream and berries. At Brieg, about 60 miles from Martigny, the railway terminates. This is a dashing little town among fine scenes, near the Simplon pass into Italy; and a tunnel to the sunny land would be next in order. Returning, the iron-horse and young Rhone had a match race of 80 miles to Villeneuve. All rivers in Switzerland are famous for speed. Their early lite is spent scrambling down hills steep as house-tops, so they form racing habits which are indulged when there's not the least occasion for haste. But in any kind of speed contest, the Rhone is ahead. Martigny is a village of hotels, guides and coaches, a starting place for St. Bernard and Chamouny valley. To the latter one 1 1 RAMBLES IN EUROPE 171 may proceed either by coach or on foot by bridle-path. Both follow ?, course like ships tacking, and the pedestrian sailing closer to wind, can easily keep up with a carriage. A few hours' climbing biing to the first pass (Trient) from which Martigny valley is seen smothered in mist. The view is enchanting and not a little provoking, as the small town we left hours ago seems only distant a few minutes. By a short digression to left glacier du Trient may be visited. It is the farthest north of the Mt Blanc ice-fields and is a good sample of a shrinking glacier, having shortened at least half a mile, as may be seen by the wreckage. The remains of a small railway and station builaings show that at one time ice was being carried away probably for hotels at Geneva and Vevy. From Trient pass the traveller has choice of two roads to Chamouny — one a coach road with terri- ble wild display of precipice and gorges for a shoit distance, the other a bridle-path which in clear ' ^ather affords one of the grandest displays in Switzerland. J he weather is not always clear; yet if one lose the sights h .■ > , the fun of a very steep climb (100 yards of which will sweat him), mostly through forest, thinned by avalanches and landslides. Before reaching the summ.it llecks of snow dotted ^he ground, becoming a thin •Tiaiiile on top. The air was cold and vagrant cLuds were scud- ding past, skimming the earth. Descent to the valley is steep, through hill pastures. Roads now are excellent and smooth as a street in London — tourists are passing in groups, on donkeys or in coaches, the average number of strangers yearly bi-'ug placed at 20,000. The valley extends to Geneva, a distance short of 60 miles, but only about 15 miles at basr of Mt. Blanc is con- sidered first in order of merit. Going from Martigny the valley opens in all its glory three miles east of Chamouny. The bottom is tilled like a garden, Mt. Llanc rising to left, cultivation climbing its base, then an area of forest; the trees diminishing m size till they give way to rocks and wreckage; above that snow pure and white that regards not the heat of summer. The first glacier we come to is Argentiere, of great extent, a wild chaotic kind of place which I ascended only a short distance. Three miles to south is glacier de Bois, the ice farther on resembling ocean billows with great clefts between. Its length is rated at i- miles, its width from one league to a quarter mile. A great part of its course is perfectly level, along one side it is covered with earth and fragments of rock, the largest probably 40 feet. The bottom is arched and is known as • source of the Aveiron.' It is unsafe to enter as great slabs of ice are frequently falling; and in 1808 279 RAMBLES rN EUROPE |!i :i m an English lady »vas killed in this manner. To east is the Aiguille de Moine, its crest risin{; many thousand feet in rock splinters apparently clear and sharp as if split from a quarry. Alongside these glaciers (ex. ;pt where they are walled) are great ridges of earth and rocks from loo to 200 feet in depth. Often granite blocks almost the size of a cottage are left on top of these ridges looking as if the smallest push would send them thundering down with the crash of an earthquake. Four miles to south, glacier de Bossons comes down a steep grade, then over some precipice, causing the ice to crack in all directions. In due time the sun-heat makes it resem.ble pyramids and spires, rising above the moraines. One of the routes up Mt. Blanc is along this glacier. While small bits of stone sink mto i^e in sum- mer, such large fragment.^ as mentioned act ditterently. Their mass warding off the heat while ice around is melting, they gradually become elevated on blocks, till losing balance, they fall over and again begin to raise another pedestal. This con- tinues till they drop off at the bottom or are stranded on one of the moraines. < Mont Blanc is not z. single peak or cone but a chain or group, over 20 miles from north-ea^t to south-west, its greatest height * 5*780 feet (neailj three miles); 56 f-laciers run down its sides and since i860 the bouniry between i .ance and Italy extends along its summit. The Ur,-; of perpetual frost is from 8000 to 9000 feet above sea-level, and altogether it covers 98 square miles. It was first ascended by a Swiss guide in 1786, who during illness from fatigue ah J exposure, informed a physician what he had done. On rr ;overy, he and the doctor made a second visit. Next year tho great Swiss naturalist, de Saussure, went up with 1 7 attendants. But what a century ago wovld almo( t confer celebrity has become so common that now the ascent is made 40 to 50 limes each summer. Fatigue must always be considerable, but danger in clear weather is trifling, and experienced guides will not set out unless appearances are certain. So late as 1S7J a party of 11 perished by a storm coming suddenly up; and che same year a lady with her guide fell into a crevasse when about half-way up from neglecting the precaution of being fastened together, At least two days arc required for the trip, and often three. The first day an elevation of 10,000 feet is reached and the night spent in a cabin. Next day after completing the journey and having a feast of obser vation, the hut is reached on ^he down trip and perhaps the bottom. Needless to say, the coid on top is severe. The ascent RAMBLES IN EUROPE '73 is made principally as a cap-feather, for the view is less satis- factory than from lower heights. To a- person of small means the expense will assist subsequent recollection. Each traveller must have a guide and porter, the former gets $20, the latter half as much, whereas needed supplies and contingents will rai.se the bill to $40 or $50. The small town of Chamouny, a mile from the mountain, has about 3000 people, with the Arve rushing by^- But it is the stream of travel that moves machinery here and not water, as from banker to beggar all draw their support from the tourist. Besides the dozen or two of second rate and pensions, six or seven hotels are large and pretentious, tariff $2 to $3 per diem. The place is headquarters for transit trade from Genev* and Martigny, and from appearan(,e along the road 1 judge the business must be extensive. The number ot horses to each is from three to six, the larger vehicles carrying 24 people. But one not laden with ducats can see things to better advantage on foot. If a person is without guide or porter the faiflt is not theirs, for he is more likely to be crowded with help, than to lack assistance. I'he fraternity is well organized under one chief or captain with whom the traveller makes arrangements. The rate per day is about $2, increasing according to difficulty or danger; but generally a certain tariff is paid to various points according to schedule. They seem to consider all strangers laden with wealth and look coldly on one who is his own guide and porter. Along mountain routes one is constantly assailed by children and others, offering milk, berries and service, to estabhsh a claim for gratuity or wages. At Chamouny the piles of alpenstocks, wood sculpture, rock jewelry, photos and bijoutrie look almost enough to load a vessel. From the best hotels to the humble be«gefk, before one leaves a printed blank of less size than fools- cap is laid before him to be filled, stating the time and place of birth, his occupation, where he came from, whither going and many other questions. The mountain rampart to north of the valley is over 8000 feet high, and is ascended by many who care not to undertake the greater height. 7'o take the matter coolly requires a day and the ascent tho steep is quite safe. The lower parts are closely wooded, while the summit is cover-jd to unknown depth by rocks of all sizes, looking as if /youred f»om the clouds. Tho slightly below the limit, patches of *now were lurking and frost was sharply at work wherever the sun's eye was averted. The out- look was fine and well worfht being stored among memory's treasures. To north west a congregation of sharp-peaked mount- i a 'si if 'Is I i fl |!1 (8 «M RAMIU.KS IN PltRorR ftingj to tn>ith .1 t;hain nf distant heights dinily vislhlei t(i horth el il« fialme with its f)«^»^i» atvd tH'yt>nd, a part of Rhone valley filled with hhie \r\\ni or vajirjrj to wrmth the giunt Mt. Hhini- \fith its mantle of" snow, its icefields, its frozen rivers, its spHn tetied ctAgn, its g»-een forests at base, its top looking a quartet mile ofl" tho \wut and coac hes arriving, but no son ml followed the movements. The view to west was of gteat inral beanty. a brortARt sha'dows. Men anil Wometi wer« * ,ig and rcajjing. olhet^ gatlrering and binding, some digg», ^ ^>olatoe^, some pull ing fiAX, their lalwrs spit-^ed by cheerful conversation. A few wl^^ had passeti tin»e of active service were, with youngsters, watching t^attlt. Sh»>uts of warning weVo raised and runners dis t>atched whenever a greedy bovine stepped beyond permissible Umit^i the barking of dogs, laughter and frolic of children, the clWN?tfiil clatner of voices, the whole surrt>unded by the « ream of alpine grandeur forme»! a st>ene not dex-oiil of attraction. The .small wwn was within short distance, with its hum ot industry and jar of commerce. Coaches arriving, passengers alighting, st*^ming h<*rses being unhatnesR^d, pf>stillions shouting m thirsiy te^ms ttw^idd-en startetl for wat«r. Retitmig guides and porters w«*« ibete, besie fAshrdtt*,* Hie view to south surpassed the glory of I^l>anon, while tht evtjning incfeAse of blue a.scended from ilatelv Iwwel, from hall and <^>tuige. Frv^m the summit to north, shafts of inidMin^blc shade crosgexl the valley, risitig by degrees as the sun was sinkin^» f>^iring t»iy slay h«re the sky was cloudless. On reMHrif eoat a mile to «omh is the great water-cure establishmeat '»f St, (Jervnis, b*iilt along three sides of a square and with accon>- modfltion for mari^tJhundred persons. Beyond the baths mi a> fine cascade, and the grounds in front are laid out i» gardens, shady walks, ponds, islands, avenues and bridges. Sallanches is a mean village of some 2000 where the vale rtarroWs and the sides become ramparts almost straight up, terminating i« bare rw^ky sj)linters, 'I'he ^c.rncrj from this to(icfneva, tho not rated f :l ■H 51 .^.i..^i. vl 1 70 lUMIU.KA IN RUROFK ftrRt'cUsB, is quite fit«e. t remninetl al 8allanc:lu"< Jiii niglit c»l Ai^UBt aCth, and had no caime lo tegtet it. Nt> rtorn was of nnrivallcd splendor-, the air still, the sky i Icar ant 'round while with frost. The valley to north was charged with vapor now rhanged to purple by the rising sUnj the vale in front was over- spread with niist^ tree-tops and churches rising above; 15 miles to south-east (apparently half a league distant) stood Mt. Blanc widi untom mantle of whit^, now looking golden. What display of magnificence — how «-an I store it foi future remembrance? Cow-bells were alr^dy in motion and their united chime at a distance produi^ed melody in harmony with the scene. 1 stood endeavt)ring to charge myself with this glorio\!s visif)n, when h callow young rt)oster leaped on a barrel and in htirsh, stridulent voice began greeting the mom. I left and went in to breakfasti As already said, people here are noted for industry and before long, slojws facing the east were alive with men and wnmen digging potatoes, rutting hay and grain, p»illing (lax, picking apples and pwspecting among nuts; pictures(pu; homes l>eside ortMrds or under trees, with children about the doors— this picture amid nch esplendev t glories, deserves a place in any collection. 1 am no-, retracing tny wAy to ('hanioimy anil the induJ^trial scene cx)ntin\ies for miles along the slope. The roftdi are quite narrow, probably to avoid waste of land; a deep trenteh is «.t each side but neither fence nor hedge. In every hundred yards or so is a wide section, no doubt for carriages to turn and pass each other. Fruit tn^es are along the road and lines of poplars tall as ships' masts and trimmed, except a bun( h at the to)>. I met a company of Savoyards going to garrison a mountain fort on the French Italian frontier; they wore blue woolen bonnets like the |)ea5antry of my native land. A dis- agreeable feature here was the numlwr ftf women at work I had associated with the sterner sex. This morning 1 saw five ladies mowing, sonve of them keeping step With men and appearing com petent aa the 'independent electors,' A da/ or two ago 1 rtiet a portly dame carrying a scythe and whetetfine. after a little i meanly peejwd mund — she was whetting and inunediately attacked k fteld of oats with skill and vigor. Near Chainouny I saw women carrying leads of grain to a bam at least a quarter mile distant; indeed this work seems to have fallen « niirely to the lot of 'weaker vessels' in the distribution of p ushmeftts and rewards. To-day a young woman was breaking stjoncs by tJie ^vMiside, xht only instance of the kind in my ratnbles. On August ^ I «t I iett this loreiy vale with kr^n regretv cisting ^ KAMBf.ES fN Kl/kOFE »77 Ionising lonkfl from a pnint where the gUmouH panorama i<» lo«t t(* sight. I returned l»y fete Nriir, for about four leagues a wide rocky trench, shut in hy mountain rnmpartB. Still the place is thickly settled and needlews to say body and soid are held together at point of the hayonet. As in Quebec province, ntoneit gathered in clearing land are l^id in ridges along middle of (ields. It is however a satire to call the place < land,' most of It being rock. Immense quantities of flax are raised, rovering ■inich of the ground when spread to dry. Clear streams every-- whore rushing a?id leaping in cascades and torrents. In tWs ( ountry one is always within Sf)und of rimning water and the tinkli ni bells on cow and goat. Water-power is without limit, often ready to set the wheel in order against it; but the machinery is extremely rude, looking as if made with axe and auger. Clusters '•I hou.ses are sometimes hudured from the clouds. To right the Trient rumbles in a (lark g'»rge many hundred feel below; U) right of this, rocky walls ascend for several tho' .and feet nc* ly straight, ynt tre^s t^Tow wherever crack or crerice affords a for>ting. Even on these heights, wl ^^rever there is standing '>oin, a cottage rrr luimlet is planted; <»o far oF are ttecy and »o much the rolor of surroundings that o»e searches ior Ihcm like an astronomer hunt- ing for [ilanetj;. How od fcuifire. alpenstocks 11 pK>T)ortion bve as here rthi... only I ^n MUT>tioned; biit evefrwhere the tiflbt for existence :-s move severe 'I n in thib cwiiKnr. While stepi:)Mi|f «*ong, eyes and ears a{| attention I fancied the «oiincrh(ips ft tHiind fret beln<*% disrov^ied rtt bottom ;i hutnblp mme, women tftlWIng fttid w.mhing. children M play and by nil m«*rtns !^ goat. I W'rts rtlnioflt spefchleB!^ tntih-t whrtt dire ron ditiotiR huiunnity «'j\n exist. 1 have nn ideti the xuii nevei peep« inm tho«e dismul «hjide< even lit hmh noon in stittinK-f; Jret the dw^ellers seemod h.ippy its on the flowery b.-tnkn of hike Como. KvTtt atnong those wilil nphcnvnh the telegraph post i«« on duty and the elet irir wire (lerlftres the ninreh of progrf««< and desire for knt>wledge. We are now bnck into the liind of l\»ll — in VftUis cantTvn, the home of gt^itre and rretins, f(il! sides are terra<^d for bftrley, ojits, potatoes ntid turnips, us nionp the Rhine tt^r grape. Where motmtaiti si(!es are less ptt'flpl tons, their are hamlets and i:hun!,es. Here women are making hay on a hill fare steep ns a roof-how i:an they move al)out in winter* with snow and iiT on the gr«)\md ? Along this range n new house was being ereited and a btish set ofl" with gay «olore«l pa|')er and ribbon was nailed to peak of the rafter recalling an old-time \»sage in this provin«e. Kailher on a gorge to left has it* nttnith closeil by a hotel where admission fee is exArted Now I nnne to a section *'here ridges of roassed i begatt to des« end thioiigh ! thick fiorest and soon 1 met soveii or eight men and wotneii carrytng on their heads bundles »)f grass tied ti\ sheets. Thesr ](-»ads were ^lertWtly rmmd. alxnit fotn fbel atross and two in depth, weighing half as much as a peisijn. They had ascended .1 steep place and were nesting when \ came along. On rcsiitn n\g riiew mart h (sntglo iieK with .slow, stately movemunls, the\ u>oked odd and f an »it» — their exaggerated turbans lesemhliii)', wo idea hr^pc — am ain^v I mH v)ti»cr wasted no «rm|MMiir on ^i t^owse dl! I thottsitt cvetr -turn R/»v»ftrfts tN f.tfJi^ii'r n^f sigjht, rt ntttv tlesttnt fif 130 /Jgzngs ficgan, which if drawn •itfrtlKHt tfynijfd flotihtlesfl rrteftstirf* f^nir /tiiles. After what teemeci nn efulHs [ttncfCfVuift, ffir Rhofic! valley hei^nn to appear tfirongh the wnMt!;evffi then fjl«?tafi<:e seerrted (^ grow faster than I roiild travel. Vefnayaz, two trr three miles ttom Martigny, r:onsi«»ts of scattered hotels, with a railway station. A short distance rjff is Tflenf i^fitga, a rrarrow fissiire in the wtk with <9'alls rising 400 feet; here sUnfihine never enteH and one has an idea of being in a ^ave, so dark and dismal is the ranyon. A footway rims along one side, fhe Trlent rdshing madly l»eneath in e,ataracts and ra|»lds - at one f»face said Ut be 40 feet deep. The gorge is H miles long, btit about half a mile nf its mouth is usually suffi- ripnt. A little noHh n fine rasr^de falls ao>o feet into the valley, part of it being ttsed to drive ma<:hinery. frfmj here to Villen etive (aboift ^0 tniles) the valhy is a league broad with high ramparts of rock. It Is a beautiful stretr:h of rountry, carefully fillfd, fmr aventtes of popl.tr. groves of pear, app/r md nut trees, also grape nilture. Village and towns are frefjuent, the Rhotie winding among thern, while Jnow peaks are often in sight, fn 56,^ a town Ifcfe was destroyed by inundation of mud and in tft^^s the plare had a similar visit. At Villeneuve I tofik steamer for f,ausanne, |>assing (Jhillon and the lovely .sr»nfs along f,hore farther north. • * • On Sept. and F left for Paris, diiitanre ^50 miles. Af first the trark pafises throtijrh vineyards: farther on the rountry has appear ;in(e of a park, undulating meadows, orchards and nut trees, the heights clothed with forest. So fence, hedge or dyke dong the irusthe rrM\|Wil I travelled funnels are fre^jiiefil fjiifl the lrang, walls and ceiling pure white and lavish'y gilt; beautiful floor of tesselated marble; seven recesses each side, with doors, and open above; chairs, pictures, statues and four bronze angels. Here Napoleon III. was christened in 1810. Next a suit of rooms occupied by Napoleon I., all handsome as gilt and tapestry can make them. In one of them ia the table on which he signed his abdication in 1814 before setting out for Elba. Three or foui RAMBLES IN EUROPE 183 rooms occupied by Marie Antoinette are of rar** splendor. Window-fasttaings of the boudoir were made by her husband, Louis XVI., showing him to be a better smith than ruler. Her monogram of inlaid wood in the floor is beautiiul. The bath- room walls are of chased mirrors, the door of figured glass. The bed-room (ceiling very fine) was successively used by Marie de Medicis, Marie Theresa, Marie Laczinska, Marie Antoinette, Marie Louisa and Marie Amelie. The throne room is of great splendor, panelled ceiling apparently 18 inches deep, floor of costly woods tesselated in figures. Needless to say the throne is gorgeous, together with its canopy of gilt and crimson. A chan- delier of rock crystal is valued at $10,000. On a table in this room marslials swore allegiance to the empire, Galerie de Diana is 260 feet long and of great splendor; ceiling by eminent artists, scenes from mythology of Diana and Apollo. Here are the sword and coat of mail (both rusted) worn by Monaldeschi, (equerry of the erratic Christina of .Sweden) when slain here by her orders. Along tne wall are 30,000 choice volumes behind glass. Here are Napoleon's writing table and a costly vase, six feet high. Three of the four rooms occupied by Pope Pius VH. are very fine. The Lallroom is a wonder of magnificence, walls ceiling and tesselated floor. The orchestra gallery in one end is in keeping. In ■ gallerie des fresques ' 1 28 plates of Sevres china are inserted in the wainscoting, each with picture of landscape or palace by eminent artists. They were specially got up for some grand refection at cost of $80 each and afterwards dis- j)osed of as stated. Galerie of Henry H. built for the beautiful Diana of Poitiers is of surpassing splendor. The lady is here represented on canvas. The saloon of Louis XHL has in.serted in its wall a mirror about a foot square, presented by the lepublic of Venice to Francis L, and said to be the first seen in the country. The room of Madame de Maintenon (favorite mistress of Louis XIV,) has hangings and bed curtains of yellow silk, said to have cost a fabulous sum. Chairs and sofas are covered with the same. The theater is small with seating capacity for 300, intended for the court and guests. The walls, ceiling, stage and seats are covered with yellow figured silk; while a band of gold runs along the edge of seats and stage in front. The chairs on v.bich Napoleon and empress were accustomed to sit are pointed out. A small anteroom at entrance is lined and fitted up exactly the same. The whole thing is of incomparable beauty. The grand stairway is also very magnificent. Alto- gether some two dozen rooms are shown, not a few hung with ^1 if |:|' 1 ■:1 1,84 RAMBLES- IN EJROPB gobelins tapestry; while most of them contain rare things such as clocks, cabinets, bureaus, statues, pictures, vases and screens. The chandeliers are extremely brilliant. I'he cradle in which ' the king of Rome ' (bom i8i i, died of consumption 1834) was rocked is among the curiosities. Needless to mention that it is gay and gorgeous. Many a vJrtuous family was brought up in a house that cost less money. A forest belonging to the palace is about 50 miles in circuit, intersected with great highways smooth as a pavement, besides numerous drives and footways. The ground is even as a lawn — no fallen trees or decayed rubbish to obstruct or offend. The woodman's axe is heard in every quarter and decayed trees or windfalls are cut in exact lengths and carted away for fuel. Not a chip or twig is left. A few trees are of good size, one I measured being over 20 feet round and lofty in proportion. Small booths for sale of fancy articles are in vicinity of such patriarchs and strangers take away mementos of their visit. Now we are off to Paris, the first 10 or 12 miles being through wood; beyond this a farm district of hills and hollows. Fields are large with indications of excellent culture. A dozen grain slacks in one fieiu was common — large well-shaped and beauti- fully thatched. The land seems to be worked fine as a flower- bed and made to produce more than in this country. Oxen are largely used and perhaps to advantage. Along here I counted 8 teams of white oxen (4 in each team) attached to cultivators, no doubt for pulverizing and tearing out couch. Many towns and villages are passed and the view is by no means tame. The Marne after a course of 200 miles joins the Seine outside the city and is crossed before reaching Lyons station. Paris stands on both sides of the Seine, no miles from its mouth, in the latitude of Anticosti, 2 }^ degrees north of Char- lottetcwn, but with the temperature of New York, tho eight degrees nearer the pole than Gotham. The river (100 to 200 yards wide) enters at south-east and after making a sweep towards the center, leaves at south-west, having cut off about one-third its 35 square miles. The stream is crossed by 23 bridges (the oldest built in 1500), and a fine parapet four feet high extends along each bank — the whole measuring 1 2 miles. The greatest diameter of the city is 7 )^ , the less 5 ^ miles and the ground is mostly level. A line of fortification 28 miles long, 32 feet high, with fosse 18 feet deep, surrounds it, while the approaches are defended by 16 detached forts. These defences were put up 50 years ago at cost of $30,000,000, causing citizens -Ill RAMBLES IN EUROPE 185 to kick lively at the scheme. Next to London with about half its population, Paris is the largest and perhaps the most wealthy of European cities, while it has long been considered a focus of civilization, and standing aloof in magnificence of style and gayety of its people. Little of old Paris lemains and a stranger is struck with the width of boulevards and uniform height of houses — being mostly six or seven storeys. Here the general government attends to what in other places is don^ by indivi- duals or corporations. For instance > wherf ver a section of buildings is noticed to be *out of harmony with environs,' the properties are valued, money paid, inhalritants notified to leave, dwellings pilled down, the site laid out anew and built upon. Sliould the former dwellers choose to buy or rent, they get first offer; should any feel aggrieved on the score of valuation, courts are open and there are deputies. But as prime value is usually paid, this seldom happens. People in the new world might not like the scheme, but here it works to advantage; it gives employ- ment to workmen while it tends to^make the place beautiful and healthy. These two conditions attract people from abroad, giving the city large revenues from tourists. Besides those who stay a week or month, not a few wealthy scions- from America and England sper>d i^ost of their time there owing to the pleasant surroundings. During my first visit I y the communists, and tho what was of greatest value had been removed, 80,000 volumes and many rare Aiss. were destroyed. Now for the Tuileries. If the reader can fan«iy the* parallel sides of the Louvre extended west- war^ nearly half (say three-seventh) mile, opening slightly and their ends joined by a building facing west, over a thousand feet long and of -convenient width, this latter is the world-famed Tuileries, the usual residence of French kings since built over 300 years ago. This quadrangle, covering 34 acres, enclosed 36, the distance roimd the whole being three half miles. It was Bot my good fortune to see this extraordiniry structure, admitted to have surpassed in splendor if not in size any residence since the days of Ninus or Sennacherib. History associates dark deeds and base intrigues with those halls of splendor, and • perhaps the commune were unconscious instru- ments when laying low this crowning trophy of wealth and skill, A writer of to-day,, referring to the despotism and corruption under the Bonaparte dynasty strikes out in this vigorous fashion: /jifiThe discovery of papers in September 1870 stripped imperial despotism of its tinsel and revealed the vile arts by which i, e;allant nation had been enslaved. The Tuileries was an eldo- radoi of -pimps and parasites, panders and wantons. For 18 years he retained power acquired through perjury and violence, by pandering to baser passions of his subjects, and by a system of fraud, mendacity and espionage. Beneath his blighting rule Frenchwomen sought to surpass each other in reckless extra- vagance and Frenchmen lost the courage which half redeemed their ftivolity. Honest citizens protested against successful villany but few listened to their warnings. All that wasi nobl6 and generous in the nation withered by uncongenial soil — the language of Pascal and Corneille became a medium for corrupt- ing the thoughts of millions. Events of the day were some actress who had discovered a new way to outrage decency, or some new play which deified a prostitute or an adultress. Paris became 1 I; I M 1 88 RAMBLES IN EUROPE a world's fair to whiqh Hocked the vain, idle and debauched. For a man to be rich or a woman to find favor in the eyes of some imperial functionary, was a ready passport to social recognition. The landmarks between virtue and vice were obliterated. The court smjlad on the courtesan and paid her homage by endeavoring to imitate her dress and manners. Card- sharpers, disreputable adventurers and public functionaries were intimate friends. No one able to insult modest industry by lavish #4 08tenta#on was asked how he got his wealth. Honor and honesty were prejudices of the past. What were the consequences ? 'Vhe armies ot France scattered to the winds and taken prisoners. Paris' the vaunttd ornament- of civilization abandoned to the iron grasp of German legions and to the mad -designs of com^ munists. Such is the legend of the Tuileries.* n ! >(. t. - i In May 1 87 1 this pile of ineffable grandeur, built and furnished at cost of untold millidns, was sot on fire by petroleum and powder. The conflagration lasted three days and nights, leaving the palace a stretch of hideous blackened walls and heaps of rtibbish. In 1882 the whole business was disposed of at auction, the ground cleared and laid out in walks and gardens. In the enclosed square east of where stood the palace is a triumphal arch built by Napoleon in 1 806 to* commemorate his victories. Ii ie 48 feet high and cost near $300,000. West of the palace and in front of it were the Tuileries gardens, extending a half mile by a quarter in breadth. Besides veixiant beauty in the way of flowers, trees and shrubs, there are frequent statues, basins and lakes. The farther end is planted with trees among which are thousands of light iron chairs, used in afternoons when a military band plays from 5 to 6 in summer. Everywhere are seats for accommodation of persons who may be rambling in the shade. In i8;^o it became an artillery camp, where recruits were being drilled and the goose-step practiced — 'in complete harmony with customary ups-and-downs of Paris. The gardens are enclosed on three sides by massive stone walls — almost ramparts, along the west end assuming the form of a terrace. Adjoining the gardens is 'place de la Concorde,' a square of 19 acres, paved with asphalt and considered the most regal spot ia Europe. From its center facing west the great ' arch de Triomphe ' stands high in front; to right the Madeleine and admiralty buildihgs; to left across the river, the Bourbon palace, between which and the spectator is a bridge built of stones from the Bastille. In the center where now stands Luxor obelisk the guillotine was in 1793 planted; here Louis XVI. was beheaded with over 3000 1 RAMBLES IN EUROFt 189 nobles and royalists. Ascending the stand and surveying the crowd for a monr.ent, the king commenced — ♦ Frenchmen ! I die innocent. 7 pardon my enemies and wish France may ' — The drums beat, the executioners seized the king, thrust his head in position and the axe descended while his confessor was exclaiming — * Son of St. l.ouis, ascend to the skies! ' Among the noted persons executed here were Charlotte Corday, Robespierre and his rival Danton, Demoulin and his young wife, the queen (Marie Antionette), Elizabeth (sister of Louis) and Madame Roland whosj dying words were — « Liberty, what crimes are done in thy name.' This was * the reign of terror' when 20 to 70 heads per day rolled from the block, and when women brought their work and sat day after day to watch the proceedings. The whole number of lives sacrificed are placed at 1,027,106. The Luxor obelisk is a granite shaft 76 feet long, 10 feet square at bottom, weighs 240 tons and is covered with hierogly- phic inscriptions. Some 3600 years ago it stood before the king's palace a,t Thebes and in 1836 it was erected in Paris. The pedestal is a granite block 9^ tons and about 30 feet in height. On its north side are represented in gilt lines the appli- ances used in removing and embarking; on its south, the machi- nery used in erecting. The whole business cost $400,000, so that its value to Parisians is over 80 cents a pound short meter. At some distance to north and south of the obelisk is a magnifi- cent bronze fountain, its bowl 52 teet across. Round the square are eight colossal statues or groups representing the r-ght chief cities 'of France, viz., Lyons, Marseilles, Bordeau, Nantes, Rouen, Brest, Lille and Strasburg. That representing the latter is covered with imortelles to indicate mourning for loss of the city. Joining ♦ place de la Concorde ' to west is the far-famed Champs- Elysees, Scarcely 100 acres in extent but fairly running over with diversified beauty; lovely avenues, verdant glades, winding paths, flowers to dissipation, showy kiosks, handsome pavilions part hid in verdure, fountains sending up water, cafes with tables spread among flowery ramparts, play-houses with stage fittings of marvellous beauty. Seen at night lighted with globes of every shade, extending among trees — the most skilled fairy might learn lessons. On the ground are several dioramas, the siege of Paris among the rest. Here is also ' palace Elysees,' built in 17 18 and inhabited by Pomjjadour, the notorious courtesan of Louis XV. Napoleon dwelt here part of * the too days' in 1815, and Wellington shortly after; it was also used by emperor William in 187 1 when his troops entered Paris, since which time it has been ii M iiSt 190 i^MPLfCS IN I^URttPK oflicial home of the president. To south of the park is an immense builUing known as ' palace of industries,' over 1 000 feet long, the exterior adorned with busts of great men from all countries. It was erected for the exhibition of 1855 and is now used for yearly exhibits of paintings. A handsome group over the chief entrance represents industry distributing laurel crowns to the deserving. Now let us move on, still facing westward. A wide central drive starts from place ' dc la Concorde' in line with the oljiclisk, a gentle slope half the v/ay, then as gently rising till * arch de Triomphe ' is reached, two miles from the Taileries and three half railes from Concorde. This avunue is unciues- tionably the finest in Europe, even surpabsing Rotten Row in the British capitalt Seen from top of the arch during afternoons with stream of gay, shining outfits it is one of the sights not forgotten. Even at night the hundreds of carriage lamps dancing and shooting like aerolites and meteors, with the steady sheen from square and parks — form a bewildering picture. Arch de Triomphe was begun by Napoleon in 1 806, but not completed till 30 years later. It is 160 feet high, 146 broad and 72 thick, ascended by 280 steps and cost about $2,000,000. The many reliefs represent battles and are extremely fine, while the arch is claimed to excel anything of its kind in existence. In 1 87 1 the commune placed heavy guns on top (raised by steam power) and bombarded Mont Valerien citadel with much effect. North of the Tuileries and separated from it by the famous rue Rivoli is an immense pile known as 'palace royal,' built ijo.1630 by Cardinal Richelieu who gave it to Louis XIII. It is about 1 200 feet long enclosing a narrow square of 5 or 6 acres, laid out in avenues, flowers, fountains and everywhere supplied with seats. It is a favorite resort of nurses and babies, while aged gents doze away afternoons on easy seats, lulled to rest by pleasant sound of falling waters. Here meet the two extremes of Gallic life. The place was occupied by the Orleans family for several generations, than it acquired a bad name, a resort of gamblers and fast people. It served as residence for Louis Phillippe from 1814 to 31. At the revolution of 1848 the royal apartments were wrecked, pictures and furnitute destroyed; in 187 1 the south end w^s burnt by the communists but has b-^en restored. The lover part is used as stores for the sale of jewelry and flashy goods, the second flat for cafes and part of one side as theater. In the garden a cannon is daily fired by sun-heat when that orb touches the meridian. : ^;i nv-^.r- na/^,;!.! Outside of the city to west is Bois de Boulogne, an extensive RAMBLES IN EUROfK 191 wooded park of great beauty -handsome avenues, retired walks, jungles of flowers, artificial lakes, islands, waterfalls, gay pavilions, and multiplied beauty. It is a showy place in afternoons, crowded with the latest fashions and fastest rigs.. Here is Longchairip race-course, the name of which is known to most readers. In 18 1 4 and 15 much of the original wood was destroyed when the troops came to Paris, but it was afterwards put in trim at cost of about $400,000. During the siege of 1870, from being the perfection of beauty it became a jungle of fallen trees, barricaded walks and sharpened stump«i. In 187 1 many a sharp tussel took place here between the commune and government troops. In north-east of the city is a romantic wooded i)ark of 50 acres, with clear lake, crossed by a light airy bridge, to a rock turret 160 feet high, crowned with a temple. Two adjoining hills reach greater height, ascended by winding paths among flowers and lawns — the view from lop is charming. In old times this was a place of execution : here the grand old Coligny was mangled after being slain by an assassin near the Tuileries and the magnanimous Charles IX. came in state to cast jeering insults at the headless remains, entitling him to rank in brutality with Caligula and Nero. Park Monceau (near the big arch) is a small, wooded vale with pyramid, stream, lakelets, bridges, mock ruins and statues — altogether a lovely spot. After the govern- ment army entered Paris in 1871, 600 conmunists (taken with arms) where shot and buried here. Let us now have a peep at the churches— about 70 altogether. Notre Dame cathedral, a famous gothic pile, stands on an island in the Seine, about a mile east of the Louvre; area 400x160 feet, height of ceiling 110, has two end powers 220 and a handsome central spire 310 feet. The array of flying butresses to east end mars the appearance in that direction. The great bell weighs 16 tons and a rose window in the west end measures 42 (net across. The building was finished 650 years ago, but restored since. In the revolution of 1793 it was condemned to the fagot but was spared and transformed into a temple of reason. In 187 1 the commune piled chairs and fired them but the building escaped. The sacristy contains many relics, such as the crown of thorns, piece of "he true cross, nail from the crucifixion, coronation robes of Napoleon, papal bull, silver busts of St. Denis and St. Louis. The building is estimated to hold 20,000. Th<» organ is rated one of the finest made with 12 registers, 86 stops, over 5000 pipes and 22 pedals. A few steps bring to the 'morgue' where persons drowned by accident or design are exposed three M' \ 19' RAMBLES IN EUROPI tlays for recognition. Every time 1 passed there wore four cadavers on the slab, all of the poorer class. Sainte Chapelle is not far off, erected in 1 248 to receive the relics now in Notre Dame. The interior is a 1 marvel of gill and decorative woik. "the Madeleine is a half mile north of ' place de la Concorde,' built on a 'platform 16 feet above ground, 28 steps (extending the whole width) leading up to the door. It is in form of a Greek temple (the Parthenon) without spire, dome or turret. Along imder the eaves are 52 Corinthian columns 52 feet high, a double row forming the jiortico. In niches along the wall are 34 images of saints; the interior is gorgeously gilt and decorated by eminent artists. A relief on the pediment is intended to represent the general judgment, and on the great bronze doors the decalogue teachings. Light is admitted by three circular windows in the roof. This massive fane was erected 60 years ago at cost oi $3^00,000. In 1871 a formidable barrier of paving stone was raised opposite and only after a fierce street fight were the commune driven off; 300 who took refuge inside were promptly tapped with the bayonet. The range of magni- ficent buildings from here to ' place de la Concorde ' were soon set blazing by petroleum and fire-engines. Near the Louvre is St. Germain whose bell gave signal to begin the murder of Protestants, August 24, 1572, the peals continuing merrily all night. The king encouraged the butchery by shouting excitedly from an upper window — * Kill! kill! — they tlee! they flee!' The small church ' Notre Dame des Victoires ' had a strange career : in 1 79 1 it became a revolutionary taproom and in 1871 the com- mune destroyed the altars, violated the tombs, used the com- munion wine and in their drunken revelry clothed themselves in priestly vestments and performed a war dance and other high jinks. But they had their fun at beginning, for next morning they found themselves prisoners, were taken outside and shot. La Trinite and St. Vincent de Paul are modern churches of extreme beauty. The Pantheon had an unsteady career since built a century ago at cost of $6,000,000. It was first consecrated and used as church, then changed to a memorial temple; in 185 1 the old name (St. Genevieve) was restored and worship renewed, to be again in 1885 secularized and dedicated * to great men whom the country choose tjo honor/ It is 360x270 feet area with majestic dome (supported by 32 Corinthian columns) rising 270 feet. In its vaults are the tombs of Mirabeau, Marat, Voltaire and Rousseau. It bears some resemblance to the Capitol at uSA/ij; 1 RAMBLES IN EUROPE 098 ii Washington, is one of the noblest stkuctures in Paris and being on high ground, is seen above all others. Luxemburg palace is near by, a great pile built some 300 years ago and used as royal residence till the first revolution, then successively state pHson, senate chamber, hall of peers and latterly official residence of the Seine prefect. A collection of modem art and sculpture is here shown. The gardens are very pleasant — groves, fount- ains, lake, statuary. In summer a band plays three afternoons a week. • The palace of justice ' is clo.se to Notre Dame, dating back 550 years and formerly residence of kings. The waiting- room 250x70 feet is one of the largest in e?;istence. The build- ing was in 1871 fired by the commune, but it had bien restored at time of my visit. Near Madeleine church is the grand opera, begun in 1861 and finished 14 years later It is stated that 400 houses were pulled down to make room for it, the site alone costing $2,000,000 and the whole business $1 2,000,000 — enough to erect a modest city. It covers three acres and is of rather peculiar outline. I attempt not the useless task of descrip- tion. Every coiflitry in Europe contributed materials for this gigantic pile, said to surpass everything on earth, tho la Scala at Milan and San Carlo at Naples seat a larger number The great stairway is the grandest feature — everything unreasonably massive and of the most costly marble. One occupying the farthest point from the stage can scarcely believe the actors to be real persons, looking as they do like dolls or marionettes. It may surprise the reader to be told that the building was erected and is managed by the stal^_. The centra! market is a vast institution, covering about 20 acres, has 3,200 stalls and was erect- ed at cost of $8,000,000. The exchange is a massive building of classic mould, 230x160 feet and 98 in height, surrounded by a collonade of 66 pillars. Opposite is the national library, founded over 500 years ago, considered the oldest and richest in the world, containing (so said) 2,500,000 books, 150,000 mss., 300,000 maps, 200,000 medals. The books and mss. as placed on the shelves would extend 50 miles. The city has many other libraries of no small proportions. In the vicinity is the bank of France, the only one of much account in Paris, with a capital of $36,000,000. The vaults are vast and complicated. Above the notes and rare valuables is a reservoir of sand in bags, and in case of fire they would be buried deep and secure from damage. Not far off stands a fountain for Moliere, the French Shakespeare who died in. the house opposite in 1673. Here took place a famous supper at which Boileau, Lafontaine and 83 .1 l\ m s.f4 RAMIILKS IN KUKOr'i: Other? were gu6sts. Continuing their libations beyond proper limits, they at length concluded to cant themselves into the riv^rr. On their way to a suitable spot, the • father of comedy ' suggested that such a sacrifice was worthy of clear noon. To this all con- sented and when about to part for the right one exclaimed — ♦ Since we've put off drowning till to-morrow, let's go back and finish the wine!' ;/• .V)/ » s ,< vu no' To south of the river and near the Pantheon is the great bonded warehouse for wines, built 70 years ago, at cost of 36,000,000 and covering more than 20 acres; some 500,000 casks are usually here, brandy and other spirits being in fire- proof buildings. The annual consunnption of wine in Paris is given at 1 20,000,000 gallons — near 200 quarts per mouth. The loological jjardens are close by and tho iinferior to some, will repay a visit. During the siege all animalii .-^xcept the cats (lion, tiger, leopard, &c.) were sold by auction at fabulous prices to be used as food. Monkeys were spared from a suspicion that men and women might be feasting on their ancestors: but a starved monkey would be poor eating anyhow. The flesh of camels, elephants and hip[)os brought high figures — meat sold from 9 to 45 francs a pound, according as it was donkey neck or elephant trunk. A goose, 230 francs; ham per pound, 50 f.; fresh buaer, 80 f.; cl. 2ese, 35 f.; an egg 6 f. The town got a thoio»:gh clearing of dogs, rats and cats; for tho the Ititer appeared on no bill-oi fare^ all had suspicions where the 50,000 rabbits (exposed at the stalls) werf- captured. Dogs were qMote4 without a blush from 20 f, to 200, according to size and species. But an evil "s seldom unaccompanied with good, and the siege opened peoples' eyes to the possible quantities of food roaming about with muzzles, howl- ing in back yards at night and hiding in cellars.'^ ii - (ft . South of the river and opposite the Tuiltries gardens stood the blackened walls of a pa'ace erected 60 years ago at cost of $2,260,000, burnt by the commune in 187 1 with all its valued contents. The cost is sufficient guarantee of its splendor, and whether or not restored since, I have not learned. Next comes the * legion of honor palace ' erected over a century ago; ic was partly destroyed in 1 87 1 , but has been restored at cost of $300,- 000.' Opposite ' place de la Concorde ' rises in imposing grand eur the Bourbon palace, now chamber of deputies. Since first built it was enlarged and beautified at cost of several milliois. Alongtfde stands the foreign office, erected in 1845, costing over one million. It is a handsome building and finely sculptured. A short distance south is a large caravansary known as • des KAMBLSS IN SUROPC 195 own as • des Jiivalides,' ansv^ering to Chelsea hospital, London, built aco years ago for decayed soldiers. The river front is 66c feet with 120 windows, the grounds (over 30 acres) are surrounded with iron palings and fosse, while an esplanade of 40 acres extends to the river, inside t\\f, gate are 38 brass cannon taken at various times. One is not always eager to fand what he's looking for, and after careful ciearch I was pleased that none of them bore the familiar impress of John Bull or his people. The hospital is an interesting old place with many reliefs, sUtues and pictures of French warriors. The coffin in which the remains of Napoleon were brought from St. Helena is kept here and among the tattered flacs suspended in nave of the chapel is one taken from the British at Fontenoy when Cumberland allo^/cd his gallant troops to be routed by Saxe. In the cryi)t are tombs of over a dozen marshals. Joining the hospital to east is ' des Invalides church,' a grand memorial pile, with gilt don.e and spire 340 feet, a beautiful landmark seen all over the city. In 1861 it was re-gilt by the electro-plating system, costing over $75,000. Right under the dome is a circular crypt ig feet deep and 32 in diameter, the walls of polished granite with marble reliefs. Here lie the remains of Napoleon in a tomb made from a block of porphyry over 60 tons in weight. TLo the remains were brought home in 1840 the whole business was not completed till 186 1, the co.«-* «"\id to have reached the enormous sum of $i,8oc,- 000, which no doubt included the funeral expense, an extra- ordinary affair with car 30 feet in height. Everything in this church is marvellously fint, the altar is fairly dazzHng, rendered more brilliant by golden light streaming on it through colored glass. Here are the tombs of Jerome Bonaparte and his second wife — his first was Elizabeth Patterson of Baltimore who was meanly repudiated because his people considered her beneath them in station. On the rotunda is the extravagant coloring of Lafosse-^St. Louis presenting to Chri.st the sword used in slay- ing the infidels. An artesian well in the grounds (dug in 1833- 41) is over one-third mile in depth and cost $80,000. Close at hand is the military rchool covering more than 20 acres; now a barrack for 6000 troops. ; ;•.'; ..|»,'i u* uii- '>\ • i; i Trocadero palace on rising ground 200 yards from the river opposite Champ de Mar, is a famous pile with dome larger thin that of St. Peters. It has two moresque towers 220 feet high, and two wings bending to the river, the whole a quarter mile in length. The great reception hall has room for 5000 persqns. Most of the building is taken up with sculpture, antiquities and 't n *ffi 196 RAMBLES IN BUROPE works of art. Au artificial cascade below the fiver front falls over 8 stone terraces into a basin, where are colossal bronze figures representing an ox, horse, rhinoceros and elephant. The slope in front is laid out with much taste — trees, lawns, flowers, a winding brook, rustic bridges, &c. An aquarium is among the attractions. The whole cost is given at $2^500,000. Right across the Seine stands the Eiffel tower, the greatest wonder in Paris*' > Acroca the river from Notre Dame is the city ball, an im- m'jnse structure spoken of as the finest renaissance building in the world. The former was burnt by the commune in 1871, the present lately finished at cost of nearly $5,000,000. A few were appointed to fire the pile which they did successfully, not knowing that about 600 of their own crowd v;ere within. At this time the government troops surrounded the house and all were either shot, or perished in the flames. The noted cemetery, Pere ia Chaise is on high ground to east of the city — named after a Jesuif confessor of Louis XIV. whose residence occupied the site. It is no acres in extent and was opened in 1804, now containing some 50,000 monuments and tombs. Some of these are imposing and handsome — that of Thiers perhaps the most costly. Of the hundred or more distinguished name?* the follow- ing may be familiar to the general reader: Arago, Balzac, Beranger, ChampoUion, Cherubini, Victor Cousin, David, Denon, Gall, Gay Lussac, Kellerman, Laplace, I_Avalette, Ledru Rollin, Marshal MacDonald, Massena, Michelet, Moliere, Marshal Ney, Rossini, Sir Sydney Smith (British admiral), Tallyrand, Thiers, Volney. Opposite the gate is Roquette prison, the Newgate of Paris. Being on high ground, the commune placed heavy guns in position, changed the cemetery Pere ia Chaise into a citadel and for three days and nights bombarded the town. Beautiful Paris WH& draped with smoke, lighted by artillery flashes and con flagration of houses. On May «8th the government troops got possession, when about 3000 rebels were shot and th^ insuirec- tion finished. The storming of Paris continued one week during which over 50,000 prisoners were taken and some 40,000 were either killed on the ramparts or executed. The manufacture of gobelins tapestry is one of the sights a stranger usually visits in Paris — established 200 years ago by the eminent Colbert. Tapestry-making is of ancient date — supposed to have been the cunning work in blue, scarlet and purpie for c' coratipg the tabernacle in the desert. The business at Paris is iwned by the state, the artisans get but small pay, are bound .0 secrecy and after 20 years receive annuity. The i. .LI' RAMBLES IN EUROPE »97 workman's superiority consists not in quantity but in quality of work; I was told that some pieces of carpet take no less than ten years and are valued at $20,000. None of the goods are sold, but used for royal palaces and presentation to foreign courts. Tapestry for decoration arc copies of famous pictures, usually not large, and always surpass the originals in brightness of color and delicacy of shade. It is of extremely slow growth, the result of a man's yearly industry being only one or two square yards. The warp is arranged perpendicularly, the operator pushes the woof through with a kind of needle, and a flake of bone (like a paper knife) does the work of a reed in weaving. Sitting at the wrong side, he occasionally glances at the other in a small mirror pushed through the warp. Visitors are admitted two days each week. In 187 1 the buildings and puceless con- tents were burnt by the commune. The business has been restored but on smaller scale, the sunshine of royalty being needed for its growth. Vendome column stands on a paved square of two acres a little north of the Tuileries garden, built in 1806-10 by order of Napoleon to commemorate his victories in 1805. It was in- tended to be a copy ot Trajan's pillar at Rome, is 150 feet high, 13 feet through, the pedestal 20 feet square and 21 in height. The material is stone covered with 425 plates of bronze from 1200 cannon taken in Russia and Austria — weight 900 tons. More than 2000 figures three feet high run along spirally from bottom to top, supposed to represent battles, the victor himself appearing with impossible frequency. On top stands Napoleon 16 feet high, in bronze and Roman toga, looking supremely ridic- ulous. Three other statues preceded the present, but failing to suit popular taste, they were successively removed. The column takes it name from duke de Vendome whose residence formerly stood on the spot. In 1871 the commune declared the column obnoxious — ' a monumv?nt of barbarity, a symbol of brute fo«ce and false glory,' and decreed its destruction. On May i6th by sinking an anchor in the street, a system of blocks, a windlass, plenty rope, plenty men and the great shaft came down with flying colors — the tricolor of France fluttering from ihe hand of • Bony.' Like everything that comes to grief by rapid motion, the column broke in the regulation thousand pieces. In its descent the hero lost his footing and his head — an arm was also among the pieces. To let the imperial bropze down easy a great depth of straw w£fS spread for bedding, yet the pavement was shattered, while adjoining houses suffered by the shock. ■1; H« m M m ■''' Two miles east of Vendome and a little north of the river is * July column,' where stood 400 years the ill-famed Bastile, a place of great strength, surrounded by a fosse 24 feet deep and over 100 wide. It was completed in 1380, first used as fort, then as state prison. By degrees it became a terror to the nation, as none knew when his turn would come. France was swarm- ing with spies whose business was to mingle with people in taverns and note who said a slighting word of the king or inmates of his harem; anyone so indiscreet was shortly called on at midnight and lodged in ihe Bastile. The unfortunate might write to family or friends but the letter never reached them, whereas any remark on the wrongs he was suffering was sure to be visited by extra tension. Even the wheel and rack were used to extort confessions. Not a few lost their reason, and some were liberated after 30, 40 and even 60 years of this living death. The place was an embodiment of royal tyranny, a disgrace to human nature. On July 14, 1789 the people gathered and resolved to destroy the Bastile. They brought cannon and pro- posed to reduce it in the event of non-capitulation. The Bastile replied to the assailants so effectively that nearly 100 were slain and many wounded. Atter three hours the garrison agreed to terms, but on being admitted the ;crowd butchered the governor and oiPcers and in a few minutes were parading the streets with the obnoxious heads on poles. The Bastile was destroyed and soon as practicable the citizens held a great ball on the spot; and for years July 1 4th wa ; observed as holiday through the country; The 'July column' was put up to commemorate the revolution of 1830 (July 27, 28, 29) when according to estimate 7000 to 8000 citizens were slain. Of these 504 are buried in vaults beneath, their names cut on the pedestal. The monument is a handsome fluted column of bronze, 160 feet high, 13 feet diameter and standing on a base of white marble. Oil top is a gilt figure representing liberty. kra?.i;'a{U m ,^^mii. amuiivi*' In a house yet standing near this place lived two centuries ago a woman of remarkable careci Of good family, singularly beautifiil, accomplished and clever, with an income of Xio,ooo a year, Ninon Lenclos, before 20, left the parental roof to pursue !)'t RAMBLES IN EUROPE 199 gay and %stive courses which she continued beyond her 70th year. During that time she had 50 admirers, among them a Lther, son and grandson in succession. Of two sons brought up in ignorance of their parentage, one of them became desperately enamored with his mother, and on being told their relationship ended his life right in her presence. She died in 1706, aged 90, retaining much of her beauty till within a little of her death, ^r/' Sevres, a little to west of the capital, is widely known foff tS manufacture of high-class porcelain. Like the gobelin tapestry, it belongs to the state, and a losing concern owing to the high price of its goods. Indeed nothing short of royalty and million- aires can touch them. The place was destroyed in 1871 but has since been restored. St. Cloud palace was near, beautifully placed by the ri\er and facing the sunrise. The palace was built by Mazarin, and afterwards became residence of kings and emperors. Bonaparte was here declared consul in 1799 and in 1830 Charles X. signed a decree to muzzle the press, the act leading to his fall. Stupid man, he might have known that while mind is superior to matter, the pen will whip the sword. At St. Cloud the capitulation of Paris was signed in 181 5. In October 1870, the palace was destroyed by shells from Mont Valerien citadel, believing it to be headquarters of the German staff. I saw only its blackened walls, not likely to be rebuilt. The park or forest is intact with the usual attraction of cascades and lakes. The outlook from heights in the vicinity is extremely fine — the winding river with its numerous craft, Paris spread below with its beautiful suburbs. St. Denis, about six miles to north, had been a royal burying-place for 1200 years till at the revolution of 175^3 tombs were destroyed and the precious dust scattered. The cathedral is quite fine and in its crypt are statues of nearly all the French kings. St. Germain, r6 miles west of Paris is a quiet place with royal palace which Louis XIV. gave to James II. of England when driven from his country, A forest 30 miles in circuit abounds with sylvan beauty and a terrace a mile long affords a magnificent view. Versailles with about 60,000 people is 1 2 miles west of the capital, noted for a wonderful palace two miles off. In 1660 Louis XIV. having discovered that he had no place fit to live in, started to build at Versailles. It was no small business either, for it is stated that no less than 20,000 persons were at work part of the time, yet 21 years were required to finish the tremendous pile and fix up surroundings. When the whole was completed and the accounts added, it is said the king fairly shuddered and ordered >■■ I :li tin- '■{.\ ::j^^-^ I J^>- 200 RAMBLES IN EUROPE them to be burnt lest they rise in judgment against him. In 1 68 1 he ' moved in ' and such a house-warming — a succession of fetes and tournaments that associates with Versailles an idea of extravagance and grandeur beyond limit. But pride has usually a fall — during the revolution it was a place for manufac* turing arms, and in 1870 it became headquarters for German tro^s. In what is called * the court of honor ' stands a heroic staRre of Louis XIV. made of cannon captured along the Rhine, and by a cruel stroke of irony William of Prussia was here pro- claimed emperor of Fatherland. After the Germans left, Ver- sailles was used as chamber of deputies until 1880; it is now a a museum of fine arts, its picture galleries requiring 50 minutes to pass through at a brisk pace. As historical collection the 5000 paintings seen here are said to be unrivalled — but they cost $3,000,000, some say $5,000,000. The palace shows various styles of architecture for which its quarter mile length gives ample room; while the land it covers (8 acres) would be better employed raising the vulgar onion. I don't attempt description — some of its galleries 600 feet long with extravagant decorations. The park and gardens are on a scale of vastness to suit, peopled with statues, vases, monuments, parterres, fountains. The great fountain plays on alternate Sundays from 3 to 5, the larger jets ascending 70 feet. The reservoir is crowded with impossible beasts in bronze, each sending forth a stream when the fount- ains are active. It is stated that each display costs the town $3,000. The forest is beautiful 'vith lovely avenues, a good sized lake and rural surprises. Here is the grand Trianon a palace built by Lous XIV. for an elderly sultana (Madame de Maintenon) and fine enough for anything — not small either, one of its rooms being 160 feet. Some 15 rooms are shown; in one of them Louis and his despotic minister (Louvois) plotted des- truction of the Palatinate, together with the ' Hugonot atrocities which covered the name of king and minister with infamy and filled with indignation every breast not seared with bigotry and crime.' Here in 1873 Bazaine was tried by court-martial for the surrender of Metz, • without doing all that duty and honor required, and laying down his arms before an enemy in open field.' He was sentenced to degradation and death, commuted to 20 years in Margurite from which he shortly escaped. His seat and that of d' Aumale (who presided) are shown. Another room contains a malachite vase of extraordinary size, presented to Napolieon by the emperor of Russia after the peace of Tilsit. The bedroom of Josephine has crimson hangings said to be the \jk, .i k.A h: RAMBLES IN EUROFK^ aoi finest in France. The small I'rianon was built by Louis XVyl for a notorious mistress (du Barry) and as mif ht be expected the place had ill reputation. The gardens attached are finr The state carriages are in a building not far off— seven of them and covered mostly with gold : a carriage used by Napoleon in 1799 when created consul, nother used at his coronation in 1804, and a third at his second marriage in 18 10 (these are probably the most gorgeous); a carriage used by Josephine on grand occasioris^ carriiige used in i8ii at christening the infant styled 'king of Rohie;' carriage built in J821 for christening of Henri Charles Ferdinand Marie Dieudonne d' Artois, due de iJordeau, comte de Chambord, grandsrm of Charles X. and son of due de Berri murdered 1820 seven months before the child's birth. The water used was from river Jordan and the ceremony was with great pomp, still • the child of miracle' failed to leave his mark on the age. Carriage built in 1825 for coronation of Charles X. and used at christening of * printe imperial ' son of Napoleon III.; the weigh; is put down at seven tons, cost $aoo,- 000. A sedan-chair, several sleds and sets of harness looked equally gay and costly. The contents of that building must have cost several million, now useless except for show and as tangible proof of extravagance and folly. Perhaps no civilized country suffered more from the withering curse of monarchy than France. Most of the kings appeared to consider the state existed for their sole advantage and pursued a career of extrar vagance bordering on madness. Not only were millions by the thousand spent on regal homes throughout the country, but each favorite mistress must have a palace and subordkiate court fo?i herself. No wonder the enshrined dust of St. Denis was .scattei* >» ed abroad at time of the revolution. While money was being^ spent as if bailed from the sea, those who constituted the state and produced its wealth were dying for bread. The Hebrews when asking for a kirg were plainly told what would follow, and only three reigns were completed when the nation broke up to i)e scattered into all lands. A (ew words more about Paris. For street cars, small station;' houses are at intervals where one gets a number and waits arrival of the '> * bus.' The Seine also affords a cheap mode of travel. On Sundays all the boats are crowded and they are so numerous that often six are in sight at once. Some of them are extravagantly gay with carving and bronze. Streets are not infested with boot-blacks, vendors of pai^ers, matches, la<:esv " &c., as in British cities. Newspapers are sold by women in gay as ■it fi i i ' tot HAMBI.RR IN KUROPr. lUtle kinnkfl Along the bnulevnrdn ttiul n rlnily, c^nlled ' the little tmimAl/ ( lAiin!! tn Imve the Inrgefit rirculfttiiMi thin niile nf Jupittr -1)50,000. During the exhibition it hml a jmuor imtking tMAchine Anil int^KR going every day in innchinery hnll; aiuI pm the web rame ofl", it wa.i printed And Immit'd round At mte of iev^Mil hundred per minute, t noticed one street enti»rprise here that 1 saw »\ot elsewhere : a ntAn rArrie« on his brtrk a tAJI tin i^reptA<;le holding ft to 8 gallons with a tup envU side from which steaming hot tcA or cnfTee (Ante out as might be desired. A spirit lamp inside did the business. In plAces one sees hAlf the sidewAlk littered with cheA|) griods, the owners strtnding About: if their profits Are suiaII they jwy no shop-rent. The veitdors of old books displAy their motley stores on the river |>ArA)>et, extending At leAst a mile. MAny of the stores Are lArge And hAndsome; thAt known as * bon niArche' in five or six storeys, occupies A sqUAre and leen At night is quite daKxIing. A rAnge of «t»>res Along rUe RivoH are also large And brilliant. The r.ity has Btven railway stations ot good size tho bearing no com- }>aHson to those of t>ondoni The hotels are given aI H500 with A greater n\nnber of pensionsi Outliidc of hotels are usually a numl>er of snmll tables where persons drink or eat whatever their inward consciousness may crave, llesides spirits, wine and iHH^r, drinks in endless variety are fijrthcoming. While t^eople fe«m happy to disai^tation, there is no loitd talk and not itie least sign of being moved by the imbibed refection. 'I'he Alt is Ivilmv, lights are brilliant and no wonder the business con- tinues till noon of night— at least on occasions. Round one Wock with three hotels I counted 1 1 a of these tables; and but few w«re empty; cafes on i>arks and squares are supplied in like manner. In other ))arts the pursuit of pleasure is only a minor <»m"5ern; here it seems *o be chief business— life a daily picnic, the air always bright and surroundings pleasant. On Sabbath work goes on like othev days, stores are open except a few and these have notices stating they arc closed on fete and Sunday, when all except laboring |)eople calculate on some kind of outing. Those who cater for the public offer special induce- ments—dancing halls o|)en, circvis performance, bands at work, bakK>n ascensions, open-air theaters^ excursions and picnics. On September 1 ath t leave for Britain — distance to Rouen 8^ miles thence to Dieppe 57. The scenery is good most of the way; the river in its windings is frequently crossed, adding variety to the scene. The valley is three or four miles wide, carefully tilled, the sides clothed with orchards and vine. HMttntfA m tAittftn t03 Several Mt,tiom a quarter of that figure. Newer parts are «^nte fine, other portions extremely qnaint and aneient in appearance. Several t^ its riiurches are large and noted. The cathedral hae a cast-iron steeple 4^0 feet, erected m 19>^(> to replace a wooden lielfrey destroyed hy lightning in i82», after long service. The toml>s of ki<;hard Cotir dgn^ to England, finally lost in 1450. Before reaching Dieppe the track runs through a contrnuons orchard k>r about lo miles — apples, pear and plunf ail really fot picking. Old haralets, each with an ancient temple; thatched houses hiding onder trees, flowen climbing the walls, a stream winding in kxyps and bends as if reluctant to quit the peaceful valley. In May and June the comlitions were yet niore attractive; trees a mass of biossom perfuming the air, the stream decked with wild flowers of bright- est hue, the varied song of birds, the drone of happv bceSr an occasional cow lying in shade or standing in the brook. What a place to reform evil-doers! One's very thoughts entangled among bees and fk>wers. Life an acted poem, surpassing in rural bliss the fabled home of Arcadian shepherds. 'R! I^vl p .1/' ' Mr t- ■■ ■•■- .-^:./- 'if <'^ 1 : 1.'- - b • :•.;- . ■ mjh^ w< ;■.- . ':'■}. I , 204' RAMB;.ES in EUROPE We are now at Dieppe, a seaport with a 1,000 people and look'- ing as if its best days were past. Like Rouen ii suffered much by revoking the edict, of Nantes, and it was shattered in 1694 . and 1.803 by English fleets. At Dieppe embarked the first; Freoch emigrants to this country. The cliffs along shore are of chalk and the water milky in color. The distance across to- Newhaven is 76 miles; time, four or five hours; paddle steamers size of the S. N. Company's boat ' Princess.' The water is con- stantly in motion whether it has occasion or not and the five times I crossed, nearly all passengers wore a serious expres- sion. The Dover route (60 miles to north) is le miles and. adopted by those afraid of Neptune. But Newhaven route has much finer scenery by land, besides a consideration of greater weight with, some (myself among them) — the fare is cheaper. When nearing Albyn, Beachy Head becomes a fine object, a chalk cliff 560. feet high, clear white as recent snow. Newhaven . is a village of some 2500 with artificial harbor and one of the spots where John Bull examines baggage. I arrived in London i at night, time from Paris 10 to 12 hours. About a dozen miles west of Newhaven is Brighton,, ij a? 1 famous watering-place and on the way that part of Sussex ' called 'the Downs' is passsd, noted for its excellence of sheep.; The country consists of rounded hills, nearly all pasture, so! smooth and even as if covered with cloth. The subsoil is chalk with a thin covering of earth. Brighton seems to have been ' brought into notice by George IV. when prince regent, who built here an odd-looking pavilion with domes, cupolas and minarets. This with the grounds was bought by the corporation . some 50 years ago as a popular attraction. «%The town rises pleasantly fiom the water, its population well on to 150,000, all supported by tourists. In summer the air is cool, in autumn and winter mild for that country; with rich Londoners it is there-' fore in high repute. A magnificent asphalt terrace *r parade with fine metal railing extends along the water three miles; seats and chairs in abundance. Two piers extend out 400 yards affording fine promenades. Pleasure boats of various sizes and gay with bunting are dancing on the water to accommodate those who love the deep. The place is swarming with coaches, wagonettes, bath-chairs and traps. Tho in May, the place was well filled, all ages and conditions — the pomp and circumstance with those evidently not so flush of money. Gay Hags were numerous, dashing and playing in a pleasant breeze off the water. Brighton has many large, expensive hotels, like pleasure *<•>>' LOlrtJON'»'*»"^>* 'w5 look' i\uch 1694 ftrst sire of )SS to ainers s con- ic five ixpres- ;s and' ite has ' greater neaper. )jecl, a' ivhaven '• of the I London titoiirt a- Sussex ^ sheep.', ture, so ' chalk lve been nt, who as and )oration ,vn rises 000, all autumn is there- ' parade es; seats o yards > ;izes and ' modate • coaches, ilace was mstance gs were off the pleasure resorts in all lands. St. Paul's church (Episcopal) b covered outside writh pieces of flint, embedded in cement, looking quite attractive. Inside was a bronze lectern, nickel-plated, made Ih Birmingham and said to have cost $5,000. Candles wire' bunt- ing and a large cross in front of the altar was dotted with garnets and other stone. Probably the greatest attraction 6f Brighton is an aquarium 700 feet with over 50 tanks, rated the best in Europe. An aquarium I may infonn the young reader is a place where different kinds of fish are kept in their proper home — the water. Let a boy fancy himself going down into a cellar, then walking along a stone floor between walls of glass; these immense panes an inch or two thick are the fronts of tanks filled with water and containing different varieties of fish — ttout, eels, lobsters, seals, &e. It would not do to have them together, as the larger and swifter would soon use the smaller ones fdr dinner. Water in the tanks is being constantly changed or the occupants would not flourish. From here to London is 50 miles, and tho interesting enough, calls for no special mention. .* 1 •fi London, 60 miles up the Thames is in 5 1 5^ north latitude, five degrees north of P. E. Island and in about the same parallel as south Labrador. Speaking with legal exactness London city covers but a square mile, likely enough in the long-ago sur- rounded by ramparts. The night population is 70,000 to 80,- 000, mostly persons in charge of public offices and warehouses; during the day they probably exceed a million. The population of * greater London ' or the city police district is over 5,500,000; no doubt the largest city at present, or in the past. For postal convenience it is divided into seven sections, the initials of names only being used. By adding these to an address security is increased and the labor of sorting lessened. Postal arrange- ments are wonderfully complete and a letter if properly mailed has small chance of escape. In the central parts delivery is 1 2 times a day and half as frequent in remoter sections. The mam lines, in Paris named boulevards, in New York avenues, are here called roads, being the road^ formerly leading to and froni the city. Between these shorter streets run in hopeless con* fusion of twists and angles, making London a most difficult place to manage. It is not easy to tell the city's extent with exactness, tho the extreme diameter is placed at 20 rtniles and the area about four leagues square. The Thames (300 to 400 yards) winds through from west to east having 13 bridges with 5 others for railway use; it is considered that no stream in the 96 ■—- ffl ^ if I 306 RAMBLES IN EUROPE world is spanned by so many magnificent and costly structures. L':ndon bridge is farthest down with fully one-third the city below, and is at certain times so crowdct'i .hat it requires push and daring to attem[>t a passage. Remedial schemes have been offered but all are hedged with difficulties that refuse to submit. There are numerous ferries farther down; but for so short a dis- tance ferries are too slow and awkward. London is well supplied with parks : the principal are Hyde, Regent, Battersea, St. James, Victoria park and many others. There are scores perhaps hundreds from two to eight acres, in front of private houses, handsome with trees and flowers. Even several 'streets are private and closed by gates at night. Hyde park is about 600 acres, nearly two miles long, the greater part a common and pasture for sheep. The western part (known as Kensington gardens^ is nicely wooded, with avenues, walks, drives and artificial basin, much used for toy-boats in summer and skating in winter. Seats are in shady places and a band plays twice a week. Along the west is Kensington palace a severely plain brick house but rich and ornate inside. It is residence of the prince and princess of Teck; was also the birth- place and early home of Victoria, and here in 1837 ^^^ ^^^^ first council on becoming queen. Along the south margin is Rott^n*row, mentioned in early part of these rambles. At south-east corner is the marble arch, a really handsome struc- ture, and across the street (Piccadilly) is a fine equestrian statue of Wellington, who lived in the opposite house. Green park (about 80 acres) is to south and in its south limit is Bucking- fisLxa palace; to east is St. James' park, 60 acres and about half lake, beautiful as trees apd flowers can make it. In the angle between St. James and Green parks is St. James' palace, scarcely used at all of late. In the quarter mile between the park and fiv^r ar^ Westminster abbey, houses of parliament, foreign office, Indian office, Downing street, treasury, horse guards, Whitehall, and a little further east, Charing-cross, Trafalgar square and national gallery. What spot so piled up with noble buildings and varied interests? Regent paik is well to north of the city, nearly round, 450 acres with a common of 100 acres ^0 north. A magnificent avenue extends from south to north witl) ramparts of the most lovely flowers, parterres and vases. It is a favorite resort on Sundays, and numerous phases of thought are proposed and developed. Here on a table or stand successive speakers preach communism to a group of listeners; 50 yards off orators declare the beauties of infidelity and revile \ LUNDON ' 'I r> ao7 Lures. : city push been ibmit. adis- Hyde, nhera. res, in Even Hyde er part [>wn as walks, ummer a band ala«-- a It is c birth- [ic held irgin is es. At » struc- Q sUtue m park ucking- >ut half le angle carcely irk and foreign guards, -afalgar 1 noble north of 30 acres north vases, lases of or stand isteners; id revile ;o the Christian religion to the lowest depth; on a neighboring stool or box a person is defending the orthodox faith and giving heavy thrusts to disciples of Paine and Gibbon, the audience sometimes moving frorri one stand to the other. At little dis- tance a company of Germans are holding prayer meeting, and one is struck with the excellent attention, the grave and inter- ested look of their serious countenance* Others are rolling on the grass or acting such games as suit their fancy. The inner circle (some ao acres in extent) constitutes the royal botanic gardens, formed in 1839 ^Y charter to several peen, the lease terminating in 1901. The ground (an exact circle) in diversified by hill, dale, rural retreat, stream, lake with swans and other fowl, rustic bridges, tree limbs trailing in water, pavilions, improvised turret, great elm and chestnut trees — altogether a delightful spot. The conservatory will hold about aoc persons, trellaced with vine and hanging plants. Another glass-house contained a specimen of Peru cactus over 10 feet high, the stem about four feet thick; agave or American aloe; date palm 24 feet high; a kind of flag i a feet high and a foot broad; oranges nearly ripe. In tropic-America and Indian section the thermometer stood at 90", the air choking with damp. The Victoria-regia water-lily was principal object here, leaves floating on surface, perfectly round, 6 feet across, edges turning up three inches, upper side green, under surface deep purple or violet. The leaf will bear up a child, so an attendant informed me. The flower is larger than a tea-cup, pale pink, very fragrant and lasting for two days. Specimen of banana or travellers' tree about ao high; bamboo cane, Newzealaud fern, &c. In a bed outside I was pleased to^^^ meet an old acquaintance in great pomp, with sounJing tiUe' and receiving careful attention, in Canada considered an arrant rogue, thriving in burnt land and called ♦ fire-weed.' I saw it in equal esteem at the botanic gardens in Edinburg. Part of the keeper's lodge is fitted for lecture hall, has a library and col- lection of insects — butterflies of incredible beauty, 6 to 9 inches in spread of wing; beetles 4 inches long and stout in proportion; dragon-flies 8 inches; tarantulas 5 inches in spread of claws and dangerous when living. I was present at a flower show held in a small valley roofed with canvas, the place crowded with blooms rare and costly. Two military bands played from 5 to 7 and the afternoon passed like a pleasant dream. Three yearly exhi- bitions are also held from about 9 till midnight — grand affairs at which royalty is present. At my first visit the grounds were being put in order for one of those reunions; walks were over- \ \l MMiMHIl ■M '"^P 'U ii A ! q .ill ao8 RAMBLE Ifi EPROPE j^pread with canvas in case of rain, while thousands of km]^ were ranged like beads, The society i$ high-toned-r-membcr- ship costing i.9j;uiflfi^»;fellQ»y.^hip .2S.gHi»^as, besides, fe^s and cpnditions. .■?• ?ii-) 'jrfj oJ brrivl? 'trto fif«itV i»nivont *!tJHtil',if*ia« i)ii Jhe soolpgicj^ gardens in north of the park is one of the sights. The businessi was started early this^ century and the col- lection is ra,t^d among J;he best known. The groiaids (about i8 ,;^Qr^s) ^ye plea^aptly diversified by ponds, ttower-beds, walks ^d terrace with over 20 houses^ several 300 feet long. On entering the reptile house is first reached; along the inner walls ;ar^ perhaps ^00 Cv'mpartments with glass fronts. jTo right are , ranged the h«^rnUess cpeqies of serpent, the venemous to left and ithe large ones in fronts A specimen of anaconda (largest in the . collection), the keeper Loformed me, was 34 feet long and 1 8 iiiche*^ 'round the waist,' boas and pythons but little inferior. A iLsu^ge tank 'n the center contained some half-dozen crocodiles from 7 to 9 feet, Vffo smaller tanks for water- tortoise and cro- codile?; pflessi stature. Frogs in variety, and some of monstrous bigness. The temperature ha^ to be w^H up and great tropical .plants are growing in tubs and boxefs. Let birds come next. The bover bird i§ ap Australian, with peculiar and int'jresting liabits; before ^est-building it forms an arbor of twigs, orna- mented with feathers, sheli, bones and anything . white cw shining. Here they will play and chase each other for hours r— nestTbuilding and resulting cares fellow later. The laughing kingfisher is another Australian, not a fij$her at all, as it lives on ^,mice. ;It8 note resembles exactly a rude, boisterous laugh, that jnay be heard a good distance. Over 60 species of parakeets and ?! species of pigeon find a home in Australia. No specimen pi qstric.h was in the gardens, but the rhea, cassowary and emu are npt '^ip^ll birds, being 5 to djTeet in height. The flamingo is remarkable in shape and color; less in size than a goose, an , extraordinary development of legs and neck gives it a stature of ,5 feet. It is white with black pinions and wing-covers red. When npt at work it ^stands on on^e leg, head under wing, its two-foot n/9vk twisted in form of 8 and having small resemblance to a bird when seen at little distance. For nest it builds a cone son^ 30 inches high, incubation being performed in standitig posture. The mandarin duck so much esteemed in China, is a neat, tidy little chap. Some of the pheasant tribe are extravagantly handf flMn^. The argus. phc4sant (found in Malacca, Borneo, &c.) has .two central tail-feathers aboi^t 6 feet long, the secondary 4\(il|>f$at^rsQC wings th/iee feet> ad&rned with beautiful; §pots; ■!^'■ 5 LONDON 'TV t ao9 The brush turkey is another Australian of great interest owing to its artificial mode of hatching. The male bird raises a mound of leaves and rubbish to about four feet; here the eggs are placed (small ends down) and covered, the generated heat being sufficient to hatch them. After the young ones come out they are covered up in the mound at nights till able to fly. Parrots, cockatoos and toucans have a house to themselves, 300 of them representing about 90 varieties, from the size of spar- rows to that of turkeys. The smaller members are in cages along the sides, the cockatoos and great macaws are in a central enclosure. Some of these giant birds are pure white, others scarlet, blue, green and pink, while not a few show all these colors. They are terribly fierce and with their strong bills will cut through any garment that comes within reach. Their voice is extremely loud and harsh, while 100 or more screaming in concert produce a noise, well described as frightful. No feebler note than a locomotive whistle could be heard among them. The great toucan notwithstanding its monstrous bill, yields to none in metallic splendor; the bird of paradise is a marvel of beauty, its appearance familiar to most by pictures. Storks and adjutants with 18-inch bills aud legs four feet long, often reduce their height two fee^ by a kneeling posture. The crown pigeon is a lovely bird with white-tipped vane surmounting its crest. Swans, white, black and gray, also white with black neck. Pelicans twice the size of a goose, short legs and immense bills two feet in length. Then birds of p'"cy — eagles, vultures, con- dors, the latter seldom reaching 1 2 feet in spread of wing. The monkey house has probably 200 simians, from the size of a mouse to that cf a medium dog. 'Fhe smaller varieties are in cages round the walls, the superior class in a central enclosure. They are supplied with swings and ropes, and their numberless antics are amusing to the last degree. Some grunt like pigs, others whistle like birds. The lion house is 200x70 feet, with 14 dens along one side, the largest 12x20 feet, smallest 12x12. Lionsj tigers, leopards, jaguars and pumai — in all probably 20. They are fed once a day at 4 on rather scanty fare of goat and horse; tho famished with hunger they seem in no hurry, take the car- rion between their paws, lick it over quietly and in the coolest manner finish the rcmst. When the bones are picked and the parties have toasted each other in water, one will perhaps offer remark to which all reply till they make that brick house tremble. I was surprised to note that an able bodied tiger is little inferior in voice to the forest king. Were all the prison •7 J ^i 11 i, t1 1 4 1 1 |i A Mr hi II mmmm 210 RAMBLES IN EUROPE i:-!^ bars removed, what a frolic — bears, lions, eagles and great serpents all rushing to get the sweetest bite. Of 80 species of antelope known to science, about a dozen kinds are represented in the gardens. The bescia antelope is very handsome with long, straight tapering horns; the eland (6 feet high at shoulder), weighing from 1600 to 2000 pounds, is really an immense beast. Both a-e found in British India and South Africa. The gnu is a peculiar member of the antelope tribe; ?.nd the gazelle, small, timid and easily tamed, is of the family. Deer are numerous in kind and about 30 varieties have their home in the gardens. The wapiti belongs to North America, is of large size with immense antlers. A pair shed in the park weighed 32 pounds, and at foot of the Rockies a pair set up point to point allowed a tall man to pass wiihout touching. The Japanese and mule deer are beautiful animals with intelligent looks. Specimens of all known bears are in the gardens; polar bears are tl>e largest, being nearly the size of horses The capture of one is recorded which weighed i6oo pounds and measured S}4 feet in length. Some of the black and brown varieties are but little inferior. A pair of cinnamon bears presented by the Hudson-Bay company, lived 20 and 25 years in the grounds. The bear-pit is favorite place with children and the occupants get many buns and dainties. Bears, like hogs, tho they accept inferior fare, have keen appreciation of anything toothsome. The society has four elephants — two African and two Asiatic. At certain hours each day they are saddled with a kind of family pew holding less than a dozen in which children and other*; take short pleasure trips. Camels are also brought out fully caparisoned, but the desert ship receives less attention. In 1850 the first living hippopo- tamus since the tertiary period was brought to England — a second came three years later. Both passed away lon^r ago, leaving the pair on view at present. The hippo approaches an elephant in length and bulk, but owing to very short legs, is no taller than a stalwart ox. In countenance and form it is by no means attractive. In the house and yard are enormous tanks in which most of its time is spent. The rhinoceros is less in size, has one or two horns on its nose, qu»te Inoffensive, with small claim to personal beauty. Its skin is rough, dark and apparently made for a much larger 'jUow. Three specimens are now in the gardens, one procured in 1868 being the first seen in Europe since Roman times. From constantly receiving donations of various kinds those huge beasts (rhinoceros, ele- phant and hippos) are sociable as dogs and open th;;ir mouths ■W^. :•! ;< LONDON . r 311 IS no by no tanks [less in |e, with rk and :imens ke first wide on perceiving any favors forthcoming — the poorest marks- man could hardly miss these great caverns. The first giraffe was brought to England in 1829, a present from Mchemet Ali to George IV., but it was short-lived. Two were afterwards secured and before the female died in 1852 seven young ones were produced. The stock now consists at two, and they do not appear healthy : their natural fare being green leaves, they seem not to thrive on home forage. In some respects giraffe are the most extraordinary animals on show, the tallest reach- ing 20 feec and able comfortably to feed from a third story window. They are inoffensive as lambj, and always begging for leafy branches. The wild ass or zebra is beautiful but fierce and untamable; the quagga resembles it much in appearance. Some of the Indian caitle are of enormous size, others of singular shape. The zebu has a fatty hump on its withers and exagger- ated dewlap under its neck. The sacred Brahmin bull belongs to this variety; yei they are also used for draft and riding. The sea-lion is an active intelligent amph'bian resembling a seal, but much larger. The specimen on show has been taught a variety of tricks. Bu: time would fail to speak of h ild boar, tapirs, kan- garoo, porcupine, prairie dogs and a thousand others. Heard from outside, the noises produced sometimes are singular, if not ludicrous — birds and beasts each speaking in its own language and loud at that. We are at length done of Regent park, after stating that in its north side are comfortably located a Baptist college and grounds. Let me next refer to Kew gardens, 6 or 7 miles up river and easily reached by train or tram-car. The grounds are 75 acres with adjoining park of 240, containing it is thought the finest collection anywhere. Well-kept lawns, lovely walks shaded by giant cedars, beech, elm and oak, flower-beds, shrubs and bushes, greenhouses of varied heat ablaze with floral beauty, artificial lake and fountain sending up water, Chinese pagoda 200 feet high — everything in best condition. The gardens are kept up at public expense and all may come in free every day in the week. The oval palm-house, 360x90 feet, next to the crystal palace, is considered the largest of glass houses. Here are tropical plants flourishing in heat and moisture suited to tjieir wants; palms from India, tree-ferns from Australia, giant cactus fiom central America and a palmetto with leafstalks 30 feet long. Two splendid palms (20 inches thick) had their growth stopped yeai:s ago by the gla^s roof 65 feet from the floor, the stalks of their great leaves over 20 feet long; a tree-fern from Australia its ■ I II- 313 RAMBLES IW EUROPE trunk 9 feet high, 3 feet round with tuft of ferns 1 2 feet long growing from its top; a slender shaft 16 feet tall with tuft of beautiful leaves, 8 to 10 feet long; a kind of reed 40 feet high, smooth green stem three inches across, looking exactly like a spear of green wheat; cocoanut palm with leaves 20 feet long; handsome leaves 15x30 inche*^, stalks 18 feet growing from a stump two feet across; umbrella and fan palms very beautiful; great tree-cuctus and giant ferns in variety. Several promenade galleries are at various heights, allowing closer view of the colossal plants. In the garden are two valuable museums, one with specimens of wood, bark and twigs, their extracts ar i pro- ducts preserved in glass. A bit of maple was stuck up in g'*eat pomp with high-sounding title (acer saccharinum) and in a glass beside a bit of maple sugar. Among some vegetable curiosities is a cast of the rafflesian, consideied the colossus of flowers, 36 inches Across, the nectary capable of holding a gallon. It was discovered in 1818 by Sir Stamford Raffles (really by his native guide) in the jungles of Summatra. The flower is of dull, pale flesh-color and emits a disagreeable odor. The other museum contains samples of wood for use — many showing splendid polish. Australia and New Zealand appear to advantage, woods from the former are made into a large table-top of 70 pieces — a really magnificent trophy. A bamboo cane 90 leet long and 4 inches through, the large end must have been cut for a giant fisher; a section of bark 24 inches thick; cedar-of-Lebanon pJank 4}^ feet broad, age 113 years and grown in the gardens; piece of pine from British Columbia, 7 >^ feet across; section of jarrah wood from Australia 13 feet long, 5 feet through, weighing 4^ tons, dark wine color, takes polish like metal and is proof against time or insect. The beech tree grows well in Britain, its lower limbs often trailing on the ground, and of this pecu- liarity the gardens aflbrd a good sample. The parent tree is quite large, its pendent limbs on reaching the ground took root and from them are growing about 40 young trees of stovepipe bigness. When in 1 the whole forms a green jungle about 90 yards in circuit and surrounded by a defense of sharp iron pickets. Several Lebanon cedars are flourishing in the grounds, •i Now scjpie notice of public buildings. St. Paul's cathedral ranking among the world's great churches, stands a quarter mile north of the river and half mile west of the bank and exchange. It is the: fifth church that stood here, the former (called old St. Paul) was 690 feet long, 130 wide, covered $}4 acres, spire 520 feet, destroyed in the great fire of 1666. After removing 47,000 -4 .( :•■ LONDON ..JHXA 1 arj loads of rubbish the present church was begun in 1675 and finished in 35 years, Sir Christopher Wren architect. It is 500 feet long, covers two acres, the cross surmounting its central dome rising 360 feet, with two end towers 220 — cost $3,730^, 000. At base of the rotunda is the whispering gallery, a con- tinuous seat round with railing in front. The audience seated, place their ears to the wall, a verger at the opposite side whispers softly and Iho 140 feet away is heard in rather loud voice. He did'nt sing 'grandfather's clock' or *old dog Tray,' but gave statistics about the church, and while he was performing I lifted my voice in a whisper that might be heard 8 inches and said — * Old verger! your little piece is well recited.' For this pleasant remark he thanked me not, but replied tartly — *.Ohl stop, stop or I can't finish.' So he began afresh and went through without interruption — I wished to ascertain if the verger could hear from our side. What is called the stone gallery is round the dome, over r^oo feet from bottom; 60 feet higher is the golden gallery, and visitors can ascend to a ball under the cross for 36 centi.. But the abominable smoke intercepts the view from either point. * Great Paul ' weighs over 16 tons> 9 feet high, 9 »^ across the mouth, thickness of metal 18 inches, weight of clapper 450 pounds, heard 20 miles under good conditions. Another bell weighs nearly 6 tons, with clapper 180 pounds, used at death of royalty, archbishops &c; the hours are struck with a !iammer falling by its own weight. The clock has a face to south and west, each nearly 20 feet across, minute-hand g}4 feel, weight 75 pounds, hour figures over two feet long; pendulum it feet, weight at bottom 108 pounds; makes 30 beats per minute. The interior is bare, and tho not so crowded with marble as the abbey, has over 70 monuments, statues and tablets mostly of naval and military heroes. The following are a few of the most noted : Wellington, Nelson, Duncan, Howe, Rodney, Sir John Moore, general Picton, Abercromby, Capt. Cook, CoUingwood, Sir Henry Lawrence, Cornwallis, Earl St. Vincent, Cadogan, general Gordon, Sir Andrew Hay, three Napiers (admiral and two generals), Hardinge, John Howard, Hallam, Bishop Heber, Samuel Johnson, Sir Wm. Jones, Dean Millman, Sir Pultney Malcolm, Sir C. Wran, Sir Wm. Ponsoby, Sir Astley Cooper. At end of the nave is a monument to officers of the Cold- stream guard who fell at the Crimea, with the following inscrip- tion: « Sacred to the memory of Lieut.-Col. T. Vesey Dawson, Lieut.-Col. J. Murray Cowell, Capt. Lionel Mackinnon, Capt. Granville C. Elliot, Capt. M. Bouveiie, Capt. Fred. PL Rams- a8 ■'tu '1 :v'. r".n ; i k n4 RAMI .ES IN EUROPE den, Lieut. E. A. Disbrowe, Lieut. C. H. GreviUe, who fell at Inkerman Nov. 5th, 1854. Brothers in arms, in glory and in death, one tomb contains your ashes.' In a recess are two great brass tablets with names of captain, 49 officers, 402 men and boys who perished off Cape Finisterre in 1870. The crypt (supported by great pillars 40 feet square) contains the ashes ot not a few ♦ illustrious dead.' The remains of Wellington are here — first enclosed in a pine cof)in, then in lead, then English oak, then Spanish mahogany covered with crimson velvet; then a porphyry tomb weighing over 1 7 tons and about 1 2 feet in height. At west end of the crypt is the funeral car in which the body was conveyed to the cathedral, drawn by 1 2 black horses. It is really an immense affair, cast from 1200 cannon taken at various battles, is about 20 feet high, over 30 feet long, cost of work $64,000. The funeral took place in November 18, 1852. In center of the crypt is the tomb of Nelson, black marble sur- mounted with coronet and cushion, the inscription — Horatio Viscount Nelson. The funeral (on January 9, 1806) was a great day in I^ondon. The body was taken from Whitehall (where it had lain in state) the King, Lord Mayor, Lords of the admiralty, princes, nobles, prelates and civic companies in procession through packed streets. Hardy (Nelson's post- captain) and 48 tars from the • V^ictory ' surrounded the body, while a detachment of Abercromby's Highlanders kept back the crowd. When the coffin (of wood from the enemy's ship) was being lowered, the grand Episcopal service for the dead being uttered, organ peals moaning and dying amid groined arches, the boom of minute guns from the Tower a mile off— a great sob like a surge of ocean went up from the thousands who filled the vast temple. On seeing the old flag of victory descending about the coffin the tars rushed forward and each secured what he could of the darling relic. Collingwood and Northesk, his Tra- falgar captains, were in due course laid each side. In 1859 ^^e remains of general Picton, first interred near St. Martin's, Were placed here, adding another to this home of illustrious dead. If the abbey has a * poet's comer,' in a part of this crypt is a Valhalla of architects and painters : Sir Christopher Wren, Rey- nolds, Opie, West, Lawrence, Landseer and others. A space about the cathedral is known as ♦ St. Paul's churchyard,' a street to north. Paternoster-row — in former times a noted book-mart. Here is chapter-house, behind it * Amen corner ' and close by. Stationers-hall with its registry of copy-right publications. The noted fane Westminster abbey stands 250 yards north \ LONDON i-1 »l«i>.i «i5 rho fell at )ry and in i two great men and The crypt he ashes ot ington are en English elvet; then 12 feet in 1 which the lack horses, in taken at ong, cost of ix 18, 1852. marble sur- I — Horatio 806) was a n Whitehall lyor, Lords ; companies :lson's post- d the body, ;pt back the '3 ship) was dead being ineJ arches, -a great sob filled the nding about led what he sk, his Tra- in 1859 the lartin's, Were ;rious dead. |s crypt is a Wren, Rey- A space ,rd,' a street book-mart, id close by, lions. ■ M'-'::'i vards north of the river and two miles west of St. Paul's, from which circum- stance its name is derived. Minster was an old word for cathe- dral and the abbey being west of St. Paul's, nothing more con- venient than to name it west minster. Indeed a section of the city round it (with population of some 300,000) goes by the same name. Setting legend aside, the first church here was built by Edward the Confessor over 800 years ago, that now standing dates from reign of Henry HI., about 650 years before our time. It is different in style from St. Paul's, about 400 feet long and covers less than an acre; its ceiling rises 1 00 feet and two end towers 220. It is a princely building, but one is gener- ally so absorbed in the contents as to neglect architectural beauty. In it are binned 13 crowned heads, the whole number of busts, monuments and tablets exceeding 500. To east end is the chapel of Henry VII., 100 feet long, 70 in height and width, built less than 400 years ago as mortuary for royal people, and said to have cost $1,250,000 of our money. The great end window is 45 feet high, 31 feet broad; the ceiling of stone is a miracle of carved work, admitted to be without rival in any land. The gates entering from the abbey are of brass and wonderfully wrought; the stalls with gothic canopies are overhung with banners, swords and helmets of knights. The tomb of its ^ounder is in a curious chantry of cast brass, a work of rare oeauty, the king and queen represented lying in robes of state. In another part is the lofty and magnificent tomb of queen Elizabeth, Mary queen of Scots has another of much the same style, erected by her son James I. A monument to lady Mar- garet Douglas shows her to be well connected; her grand and great-grand-father were Henry VII. and Edward IV.; her uncle was Henry VIII., her brother James V. of Scotland, her cousin Edward VI., her son Henry I. of Scotland, grandson James I. of England, her mother Margaret queen of Scots, her jtunt Mary queen of France, her cousms Mary and Elizabeth queens of England, her niece and daughter-in-law Mary queen of Scots, her husband was earl Lennox, and her son the unfortunate Damley — so says the inscription and much more Queen Mary was interred here with due honors. The remains of Cromwell, four children and six officers were removed at the restoration — an act of malice which shows the meanness of crowned heads. In the royal vault are buried Charles II., William III. and Mary his queen, also queen Anne. Another vault built by George II. for the Hanover line has not been used lately and several bodies were removed from it to St. George chapel at Windsor. Among I 9l6 RAMBLES IN EUROPE i other noted interments are— Dean Stanley, Joseph Addison, John Campbell duke of Argyle, James I., Princ*? Rupert, Ann Hyde (first wifie of James II.) and ten infant children, Ann of Glou- cester and 17 infant children. On returning to the abbey we come to an elevated enclosure known as chapel of * Edward the Confessor' who died in 1065, last of the Saxon kings. He seems to have been a person of weak mind, abnor-* mally superstitious, canonized in 1 1 63 — the only British king .who received that attention. His shrine or tomb was built by Henry III. in 1269; originally very ornate, it has during cen-i tunes been defaced by devotees who desired a crumb of so holy a relic. In this enclosure are interred 6 kings, 5 queens and several royal bloods* The tomb of Edward I., who died 1307, was opened in 1774 and the account says his body was perfect, having two robes, one of gold and silver tissue, the other crimson velvet, a scepter in each hand, jewelled crown on head. In this thapel are two coronation chairs, one made for Mary II. (queen of William III.) 200 years ago, another for the * stone of destiny ' when Edward I. brought it from Scotland 600 years ago. These chairs are not much to look at and . for daily use would have small value; but they perform important functions for all that- At coronations they are covered with gold tissue and placed before the altar; the candidate for regal honors sits on the rock- bottomed one, his or her consort occupies the other. The stone in question looks to be 9 inches thick and 1 6 ;o 18 wide, of dark non-committal hue and doubtful material. A number of childish legends are related about its having been part of Abel's altar, a pillow for Jacob, making a trip to Mizraim, a residence in Spain, a sojourn in Carthage, then a skirmish to Ireland and miraculous voyage to Scotland — belief in which nvight be pardonable a millenium ago, but. pitiable at present. The idea of sending abroad heralds to dispel mental darkness while at home they revere a worthless rock whose claim to notoriety rests on monkish tradition established centuries before people gave up faith in fairies and ghosts — has to say the least an ap- pearance of freshness. But a belief in the divine right of kings requires equal vigor of fancy — land we pass on. In the chapel of St John is a monument (erected by brother officers) to Lieut-Col. Charles MacLeod who fell at siege of Badajos at the age of 26. A splendid monument represents general Wolfe falling at siege of Quebec. A singular group records the death of Joseph Nightingale and wife who died 1501 years ago— rsheat 2 7, he at 56. The marble (on a platform thre© .r> .1 < LONDON .4.1:11. ;, 4 ai7 feet high) represents a lady in screeching terror, throwing hes arms wildly, and death in form of a grinning skeleton issuing from a 1 dark cave and aiming a dart at her breast, while the husband has one arm round her and with the other striving to , ward off the fatal shaft. It it a comical design for such a place. Sir Rowland iill, James Watts, Sir H. Davy, Sir James Y. Simpson are remembered in marble, and well they deserve th« honor; Sir John Franklin bom in England 1786, died in 1 the frozen north i847».. I ■"iK >■■ ai» RAMBLES IN EUROPE Congreve; moaument toi genenil Outram; unifer theubMst is \ shown in reliefs Lord Clyde and Outrani. shaking hands, general Havelock close by — companions in arms during the. Indian > mutioyi. On a moulded ^ase stands a sarcophagus with in- i scription to merfoory of Major John Andre who vas caught wiUiin thel American I lines and put to death Oct. 2, 1780,'jage'. 29 yearSi His i-^roains were placed here in 1821. White mar--', ble monumenti to Isaac lnVatts, 1674-^1748; monument to Sir j Cloudsley Shovel^ • «^stinguished admiral lost at sea in 1707. We sire now at the south transept, usually referred to as ' the pocCff! borner,' thickly peo]!)led with busts, monuments and ! stfttues — here > tHey are: Isaac Barrow, Joseph Addison, Lord MAcAulayv Thackery, 'Handel, Goldsmith, Dickens, Sheridan, - Garrick, Samliel Johnson, Gay, Shakspeare monument ami fltalue*.. and on a scroll diese lines from ' the tempest W> ur atr. iqnitMuM <:ti;u(nii'The cloud -uAA Y«^,^!! ^.^'^^ 'V-•?^"'i^^'?*l^'^'«^«l.^«•.. ... .«; ) ./ti. h.l>no.l 0"tv/ .r.'nui o' i'-vt A Thomas Campbell represented in academic robes; Mathew Prt^f, Johh Mi)toii, John and Charles Wesley, Sartuel Butlei"' (Hudibrais)', Be^ Jonsbpf'and cut'on the pavetti^nt above ;Wi* coffih— 'O rarfe Ben Jbhson!' A fine monutiient to Chaiitfer ; but iriiicf^ defaced; al' biist of Longfellow was placed her^ by English admirers and redently one of R6ben Bums'.' • ' ' '^* '^ '» ^ Across a street from the abbey fs pariiament hpuse', the world's finest gothic and the most lordly pile on ^a seems to have been designed for banquets and coronation feasts .: (the last given when George IV. was installed into office); and it i is stated that Richard IL used to give Christmas feasts at which ; no less than io,ooo were present. Till 1820 it was used for ! state trials : the mockery previous to the judicial murder of Wallace, trial of Warren Hastings, earl Stafford, Thomas More, Somerset, Charles I. and others. The building is 270x68 feet i and 90 in height of ceiling, the mside roof formed by 13 great; t ribs of timber, supported by neither beam nor pillar. A row of ■ statues extends along each side of the hall. Not a little of Eng- < lish history clusters round this old landmark, now iocorporated into parliament house, i ■ -mjIJ . itad k. u^i-.h m^ witlt .-, t »rf i Standing on a slope north of the river and a haM" mile east of., London bridge is the tower, surpassing all English structures in t historic association. Leaving out traditions of its Roman origin / and subsequent claims of king Alfred, it appears settled that t William of Normandy erected the pile over 800 years ago» To west is ' tower hill,' where for centuries the scaffold was a familiar > object; to north is ^ little tower hill.' The stronghold id sur- •\ rotinded by a wide ditch over half mile long and now used as ', ga^den^- Inside is a double line of walls in places 30 feet high .^ and 12 feet thick, known as the outer and inner wards, The, ? reader who fancies the tower to be a single building is in error, 1 for qnithe enclosed 12 acres are about 50 structures the whc^e ; appearing like a fortified town in a small way. There are-/ * bloody ; tower,' < St, Thomas tower' (under which is traitor's . gale entered by water), 'middle tower,' 'Wakefield tower,' ; « Beauchamp tower ' and several others. All these are ailong the , >«l •J*t RAMBLKS IN lUROPt ramtNirtii; Init the ^reat Norman ko«|) or ' whitu tower' tN:cuptct ' the center, 1 16x96 l«et nmt qa feet in height. For ccnturiet thl't tower WAR Mitii ;iA fortrenn, priiion, kw-rnutt And jtalHre. Here PiantAgi^net kin^s hekl totiriiiiinenlH, revcln nnd high religious rit«»-i-horo were inipri«one power dtvil-dinectcd. On tower-hill the scaffold stood 350 years, heads .>lling off the block as mere pitstimc; the work was l)Cfun )>y execution m Sir Simon HuHy in 13H8 and ended by cutting the Head off Simon Fr*Mri(I*ord Ixivat) in 1747. The first prisoner was Ralph Flamart in t too, the last Arthur Thistlewood who with fmir others wtre execrated \n 1830 for a plot to murder crown ministers at a cabinet dinner. On the dungeon wall» of Beauchamp tower are 91 inscriptions cut by persons during confinement; besides the lettering many have shields and armorial device^ cut in a manner that sho^rs skill and taste. Here is about the longest : * Better to be in the howse of mornyng than in the howse of banketing; the hartc of the wyte is in the morning howne: it is better to have some chaHtening then to have over moche liberie. There is a tymc for all things —41 tynie to be borne and a tyme to dye; at I the daye of deathe is l)ettor then the daye of berthe: there is an ende of all things, artd lh« ende (rf a thing is better then the begenin : be wyse and pacyen^e in troble, for wysdom defendetl>e as well as money i vse wdi the tyme of prosj)ererite, and remember the tyme of misfoi^ tewn. Jra Aprilis, 1559. Wm. Rame.' Another — *Hitisapoynt of a wjrsc man to try and then truste; for hapy is he whome fyndeth one that is just. I leve in hope and I gave credit to mi frinde in lime did stande me iv: )8te in hande so wovlde I never do againe, excepte I hade l.r./<; sver in hande, and to all men wishe I so vales ye svsteir»e twe leke lose as I do. Vn happie is that man whose actes doth procver the miseri of this hovrs in prison to indvre. 1576 Thomas Clarke* One of the longest and by far the best executed is by Charles Bailey who in 1 57101 was sent to England with letters in cypher respecting a con- spiracy in behalf of the Scottish queen. His errand being sus- pected, he was seized and placed in the Tower. Another consists of a shield and crest com|>osed of three salmon, with • >L()ND()N \.t'tU^.A a«» the motto * Ne<:temcre ncctimote ' (neither rAnhiy no? with fear); to left iHt in the center of « star, surronnded by a circle with the wonln • J+tc vive vt riviw' (live that thou rnayest live); to right, a dcath'H head fiurmundcd by ' £t Morire ne morierb' (nid die' that thou di«it not). To this it added-^.' T. Salmon i6aa, cloaer prisoner K mcirHhs, 3J welm, 314 dayes, 5376 hoiire*.' In two lilacex appears the word * jane/ a memento of l^ady jane (irey. Nearly in front a mark on the pavement shows the fl(X)t on which' were licheaded Catherine Howard, Anne Boylen, I.ady jane (irey und othcrn. The •former two had the ill fortune to be wives of Henry VIIL, the latter was made queen agairst her wish and 9 duys after was imprisoned and sent to the hlock on February 1 3, 1 554* aged 1 7 yeara. A number of t ild beasts were kept in part of the grounds for centuries till the last were re- moved 60 years ago. The first elephant seen in Britain wat sent by the French king to Henry VJII.; a house for it is said to haVe *cost An and aod/ In reign of queen Aane there were 1 1 \\at\9 and smaller beasts in pioportion. The phraae * going td see the lions' is thought to have started about this time, nti 'I'he regalia and crown jewels are kept in Wakefield tdw^/ attended by a warden who nevr quits his^post unless relieved. They consist of < the Qiiedfi's diadem {a species of crown), old imperial crown, (Queen's crown made for her and valued at about $500,000; Prince of Wales crown, coronation bracelets, tem- poral scepter, spiritual scepter, crown formerly worn by Prince Consort, Ht. Edward's utaiT 4^ feet long' bearibg orb arid cross, all of gold and though b to date from crusading times. The. 8cci)tcr of gold with jewels, length 2^ feetv valued at<$2oo,ooov rod of equity 3^ feet, gold, set with dianK>nds. The state salt- cellar is a mighty affair in form of a tower, with 12 cellars of less/ dignity and importance; four swords of state, a number of maces, christening fountain, mauny dish, sacramental flagon, two erwr- mous tankards, anointing spoon, four gold spurs — sui)i>osed to represent altogether 12 to 15 million dollars. Needless to my all these toys are useless while the yearly cost of ittendance must reach a good figure. When one remembers the thousands in London who are without food, home or raiment, sleeping on« bridges, around squares and wherever they find shelter, the thought naturally otrcurs — why not sell in job lots these cart- loads of jewels and apply the proceeds towards raising those paui^rs to the rank of decent people. Kings with rare excep- tionb have ever acted like children' (very bad ones) and it is perhaps natural they must have toys; but in a practical age, toys 30 I ZZ3 RAMBLES IN EUROPE 3 that cost tens of millions are surely too heavy to sMng. Since playthings are needed a more brilliant fit-out than rhe crown jewels could be made at small cost, that would symboUz^r royalty to perfection — a useless bauble erf tinsel and paste. About ?oo years ago those emblems of state had nearly passed into oi er hands by unfair means and evil motives. One day a roving reckless character named Blood (dressed as parson) called to see the jewels, accompanied by a woman he called his wife. Feign- ing illness the l»iy was brought into an adjoining apartment where she soon recovered and became so intimate with the keeper's wife that Blood arranged a match between a pretended nephew and her daughter. On t)ie evening appointed parson Blood, the nephew and two confederates (with concealed daggers and pistols) appeared at the jewel-room, one remaining at the door as sentry. While waiting for mother and daughter to appear. Blood asked the valuables to be shown and when off his guard the keeper was gagged, thrown down and held while the goods were being secured. At this instant the keeper's son. arrived from Holland and the sentinel, evidently off his guard, failed to intercept him. Seeing the disorderly look of things inside, the son raised an alarm and cries of murder! treason! V * catch them! ' rose fast and furious. But the robbers did'nt wait to listen — they lifted their, feet quickly, passed the guards and at the outside gate mounted their horses. They were caught however and even then Blood struggled hard before resigning his booty. Blood not only got clear but was before long placed in a good office— a curious story from end to beginning, 220 yejifs ago when Charbs II. was king. In 1 84 1 the old Armory erected by William III. was destroyed with (it it said)' 380,000 muskets and immense lot of valued stuff. The white tower has since been a lepository of old armor and perhaps no bulding on earth contains so vast a treasure in that line. The old council chamber (95 by 40 feet) is taken up with equestrian figures and on entering one fancies himself su.TOtmded by a company of armed knights in the steel cover- ing of long ago. They are ranged in chronological order, the earlier kind being rude and imperfect, covering but small part of the body. Later kinds show wonderful perfection, some beautifully chased with gold, and all done with the hammer. The metal is a quarter inch thick, a horse's armor weighing from 90 to T 10 pounds, that of its rider about half the weight. Chain armor first came into use, but failed to become general. The earliebi plato armor shown dates trom the 1 2th century; the •■*l',l. i^i >*{ LONDON ..{ »W./k;( 223 greyed valued larmor lure in [en up limself :over- |r, the |l part some imer. from :bain The : the system rose to its best sontf. 400 yt%rs ago, but has been laid aside for three centuries. The work is a marvel of excellence and I was informed the cost of a steel suit for a man and horse reached a thousand guineas. A suit in Dresden museum is said to have cost isvof^o crowns. Along the walls are great spread- ing sheaves of pikes, spears snd lances from 14 to 20 feet long and quite heavy — battle-axes are in great variety and numbers. Round the windows are cluf.tered piles of pistols, locks, spurs, powder-horns of many designs in horn, ivory and metal. Inven* tive genius seems to have run wild judging from the absurd instruments to cut, maim and butcher; a weapon named the scor- pion is truly uncanny; 'the morning-star' consists of a handle 10 feet long with an iron head and points radiating in all directions; the * holy-water sprinkler' has a similar handle ending in a cluster of short chains, each with iron ^ knob. -another 'vith~ 7 'barrels. A number of guns on revolver principle, 4 to 6 chambers and centuries old; magazine fusil capable of firing t8 shots a minute; breech'loading cannon three centuries ojd and later; two-handed sword 10 feet long with a three-foot handle; executicmer's sword (king of Oude's) blade 4 feet long, 6 inches wide, handle 3 feet, weight 64 pounds; sabre from Mahratta with blade r inches wide; 50 aisss^ais given by % Caffre chief in token of submission; pbtol-and-axe, pistol-and-shield, and similar absuni combinations; match-locks, wheel-locks, scymitars beautifully chased in gold. The workmanship on arms and armor from India struck me is wonderfully fine. An English musket used at the Crimea has a ' clean bullet hole through, near the muzzle, the barrel of another is flattened ly a shot; brass gun 15 feet long, weight 5 tons, used on ship 'Great Harry' in 1542. Armor worn by the champion of George II. [At coronations the champion dressed in com- plete armor, challenged to mortal combat any man who thtee times denied the king's right; the ofiicp began in time of Edward I. and continued to the reigh of George 11.] The rack and other instruments of torture; rpaisk, axe and block used at beheading of Lords Balmerino, kilmamoc and Lovat; figure of queen Elizabeth. on horseback as she appeared at fort Tilbury in 1 588 to encourage her troops when the Spaniards were expected to land; a brass gun taken from Malta by the French in 1798 — Napoleon was sending it to Paris when a British ship (' Seahorse ') feH in with the vessel and u.ter the usual civilities carried off the prize. Guns from wreck of the • Mary Rose ' sunk in 1 545 (under water 295 years and masses of rust); also bows of yew 6 feet long ■,!« v, EUROPE n » from the same; gun from the * Edgar ' sunk in 1 7 1 1 ; several guns from the 'Royal George ' (and part of her keel 18 inches square) which went down at Spithead on August 19, 1782. [This ship was one of the largest and best equipped in the navy, carried TOCO men, 100 guns and was 65 feet fromkeel to taifrail. She had received six months' stores, taken on boar4 many tons of shot and in two days was to sail with the blue flag of admiral Kempenfelt at her mizen. For some purpose it was necessary to keel her over and as the vessel was deep every wave dashed in at the lower tier of ports. Still no danger was apprehended and sailors amused themselves chasing rats dri^ven out by the watei. About noon the carpenter came up and warned the lieutenant in cha?^e of danger and advised to have the ship righted; in reply he was told to look after his chisels and not meddle with things above his station. After a little he again asked the ship to be righted and was curtly toki he had better take charge if he knew the, business better. Not willing to seem influenced by caution, the lieutenant was in no hurry, and just as the crew were trooping to their stations, the ship went dovM,, half her masts above water, 6nsign and flag waving as in derision*. About 75 were saved and perhaps 900 went down, the' admiral with them — just because a conceited fop wished to display his authority for about ten minutes.] A few words about the use made of old arms to decorate the ceilings and we have finished. Who would think- that old muskets, swords, sabres, bayor;;,cs, pikes, ramrods, sprihgs, plates,, locks, hammers could be arranged' to resemble flowers, plants, leaves, ears of corn, borders, scrolls, birds, butterflies, beetle.s- — yet so it is j flowers 10 to 12 feet across and everything large in proportion. The whole thing is really marvellous. The work was due to a gunsmith named Harris who received a pension from the state, which heweildleserved The British museum may be said to start from 1700, when Sir John Cotton presented his library of rare books, followed by purchase of Sir Hans Sloane's collection for £20,000. A house was secured on Bloomsbury square and on January 15, 1759, the collection was opened to the put lie. 'From time to time addi- tions have been made by gift or purchase — the mounds of bui led cities have given up their treasures and even the grave has surrendered itG dismal charge to enrich this vast storehouse. The parent institution is a great structure with classic portico and fttcade nearly 600 feet in length. The ground-floor to left is mostly taken up with sculpture and reliefs from Egypt, Assyria, Italy and Greece, each section occupying a separate h> r* LONDON a 2$ room. In the Roman section are busts of Caesar, Brutus, Agustus, Nero, Tiberius, Caligula, Trajan, Otho, Domitian, also pavements, tablets and altars found in Britain. In the Graeco- Roman aYe statues of Hekate, Apollo, Ceres, Bacchus, Diana, Venus, Cupid, the Harpies; bust of Minerva, Homer, Serapis, colossal bust of Jupiter, tesselated pavement 40x12 feet, from 'Roman villa; also mosaics, altars and tablets. The Elgin marbles consist of sculptures from the Parthenon (temple of Athene) at Athens, obtained by Lord Elgin when ambassador at Con- stantinople in 1 802. The temple of pentelic marble (330x1 00 feet in area) was built in time of Pericles, 2350 years ago and sup- posed to cost $7,500,000 of our money. The three great statues of Athene (by Phidias) were considered perfect; one 30 feet in height was of ivory with drapery of gold, another was of bronze. The Parthenon foremost among the world's great temples was partly de^itroyed during a bombardment of Athens in 1687 and the Elgin marbles are mostly the frieze, of which about 240 feet were recovered. In another part are seen fragments of the marvellous temple-tomb erected for Mausolus at Halicarnassus (in west of Asia-Minor) about 350 b. c. by Artemisia his discon- solate widow. The structure was 140 feet high, crowned by an immense chariot group, and rated among ♦ the seven wonders.' The site when discovered in 1856 was cumbered with Turkish houses (all built with fragments of the mausoleum), 12 of which were removed in process of excavation. A slab of the frieze (discovered in a palace at Genoa where it had been a couple of centuries) was purchased, and in 1876 two fragments were found in a house at Rhodes. Another piece was got from a museum at Constantinople, so the reader will understand the value set on ancient sculpture. The frieze represent* the Greeks and Amaz- ons in mortal comh:;t — the different encounters shown with great spirit. In the Assyrian rooms are numerous slabs and miscellaneous objects excavated during the past 40 years in the sites of Nineveh and Babylon; Layard's excavations were mostly in a mound supposed to have been the palace of Sennacherib at the former place, where he reigned about 700 b. c. The slabs (of alabaster and other stone) are supposed to have lined the royal apartments, giving in bas-relief a picture history of his reign. They mostly bear mavks of fire and some were in hundreds of pieces when recovered. The work is excellent, tho faulty in outline, and perspective is entirely wanting. The reliefs repre- sent building operations, battles, sieges, return with spoils and captives, while noi a few represent incidents recoroed in scrip- "-"r-n*"! ,#" mn 336 RAMBLE^ IN EUROPE Pi: !■ K i-h ture — the reliefs usually accompanied by cuneiform inscriptions. Here are samples — army crossing a river, chariots in boats, horses swimming behind, guided by halters, soldiers swimming supported by air-filled skins, others on shore inflating skins and preparing to cross. Then siege of a city, wall with parapets and arched gateways, assailants mining, breaching and scaling with ladders; battering-ram surmounted by tower filled with archers and slingers, the besiegers attempting to catch the ram with grapling-irons and hurling firebrands to destroy the machine, besiegers pouring on water; darts, arrows and stones, flying through the air — altogether a lively scene. A description of Sennacherib's invasion of Judea bears close resemblance to scripture account except that it fails to record the destruction of the Assyrian host. A black marble obelisk with reliefs and inscriptions, speaks of Shalmaneser receiving tribute — from Jehu son of Omri among others. There is also recorded hi? encounter with Benhadad, his expedition in Babylon, defeat of Hazael, receipt of tribute from Tyre and Sidon. In centre of the room are glass cases conicaining hundreds of small objects, as engraved seals and cylinders of crystal, carnelian, jasper, agate, &c., also inscribed clay tablets and articles of bronze. These tablets are two to six inches long, the inscription (cuneiform) stamped on them ' when soft, then baked or burnt. These consist of con- tracts, memoranda, receipts, incidents of history, letters and even lawyers' briefs. Some hive inscribed casing also of clay, for protection. One is said to be dated 3800 b. c. — old before Nimrod acquired fame as a hunter. Here are a few samples — letter from Sennacherib (while '^rown prince) to his father Sargon concerning affairs of state; a tablet gives account of the flood, parts almost exactly like the Genesis version; tablet record- ing movements of stars, another gives observations on eclipse of the moon; astrological omens; Hst of works in the library at Nineveh; list of kings who paid tribute to Assyria, among them Baal king of Vyre and Manasseh king of Judah; part of tablet recording conversation between horse and ox; part of cylinder with account of Sargon's expedition against Ashdod; tablet with cover containing deed of partnership between Sini Inani and Iriban Sin, b. c. 2120; tablet recording adaption of child, b. c. 707; calendar of lucky and unlucky days; tablet referring to nghtiof-way; redemption of mortgaged field 529 b. c; sale of a ship; receipt on paying 25 shekels rent for a house; lecording sale of slaves; loan of 1 7 shekels. Many are in fact notes-of- hand tho they don't contain the regulation 'value received.' LONDON 337 .m con- Interest at 25 per cent is frequently promised whether paid or not. A great number i( small articles in bronze and ivory are here — reaping-hook, fragments of swords, bits of chain armor, bronze nails, rings, fetters, chain, axe, adze, chisels hammer, small bells, a number of weights in form of lion couchant, ladle with spout, funnel with strainer, bronze hand-mirrors. A pair each of colossal bulls and lions, both winged, man-headed, over I o feet high and the same in length are supposed to have stood at entrance to Sennacheribs palace. They are sculptured in high relief on slabs about 20 inches thick; each has five legs so as to appear perfect from side or front. All have more or less inscrip- tions, while some are completely covered, reminding ot the beast mentioned in Revelation. They were excavated by the indomitable Layard in 1 847 and floated down the Tigris 500 or 600 miles on rafts, buoyed by inflated skins. This section con- tains much interesting sculpture whole or mutilated, but I fear to weary the reader and will pass on. The moabite stone dis- covered at Diban in 1868 is of untold value to Semetic science. It was 4x2 feet, a monument to king Mesa, giving account of his wars against Omri, Ahab and Ahaziah, kings of Israel. The Arabs on seeing importance attached, reduced it to fragments, but fortunately the discoverer took a paper Cast of the inscrip- tion before harm was done. The Egyptian collection is also varied and interesting. The Rosetta stone, a basalt slab discovered in 1 7 99, has three in- scriptions of similar import — hitroglyphic, Coptic and Greek, supplying a key to the former which had hitherto been difficult to manage. Early Egyptians show a liking for things of im mense size as seen by their temples and statues. Here are many sarcophagi of the hardest rock, beautifully polished, several of them weighing each from 10 to 1 2 tons. Rameses II. (thought to be the exodus Pharaoh) is represented by many ponderous statues: one bust is about 12 feet in height and 6^ broad. A colossal head of Thotmes (b. c. about 1600), an arm 14 feet long and 6 feet round, part of a foot 42 inches across (great toe the size of a man's body), no doubt belonged to one figure— over 30 feet in height. Colossal head of Amenophis (Memnon of the Greeks) whose sitting statues 70 feet high at ancient Thebes, are among the wonders of travel. A statue of wood supposed to date from 1360 b. c; many vases mostly alabaster, two or three said to be 5000 years and others well up. An immense number of small objects in bronze such as lamps, rings, bodkins, tweezers, various tools, a number of copper vessels, infinite ■#■ i,m 238 RAMBLES IN EUROPE variety of images in bronze, clay or marble. A wig of black curly hair dating from time of Moses, looks in fair condition. About 60 mummies and a greater number of cases are in stock. The remains of king Mycerinus (reputed builder of a pyramid) are said to date but little short of 3000 b. c. Embalming was practiced till about 1270 years ago and it is computed that 420,- 000,000 were in that manner laid to rest. The operation re- quired at least 70 days and the more expensive process cost a talent (over $1300), while a cheaper style could be rushed up for $400 — so says Herodotus. The poorer class used bitumen in the preparation, from which circumstance the name is thought to have been derived — mumia, bitumen, or mum, wax. Em- balming completed, the body was wrapped from feet to head in cotton cloth, 300 yards being sometimes used. The rich have a beautiful enamel face formed on the wrapping, with false hands folded across the breast; the poor must be satisfied with a daub of ink on the cotton to represent eyes, nose and mouth. When it can be afforded, two or three coffins are used one over the otrur, the inner covered with Inscriptions in their peculiar style of art. The outer ones are large, three inches thick and all dovetailed. The bodies are almost jet black, looking as if hung for a decade in a smoke-house; the lips are drawn tightly back showing the excellent Egyptian grinders. Similar atten- tion was paid 10 ibis, cats, crocodiles, dogs, owls, swallows, monkeys, snakes, fish, &c. Numbers of these are on the shelves. The earliest known coins were made at Lydia in west of Asia Minor about 700 b. c, from an alloy of gold and silver. [In Lydia were Ephesus, Sardis and Smyrna, and here Crcesus was king 550 b. c] Earlier coins were rude in outline, looking as if a bit of metal were flattened with a stone; but in 300 years the art reached great perfection, to decline again before the time of Christ. Ptolemy Soter IV. (king of Egypt) was the first to put his ugly image on a coin, b. c. 220. One of the famous gold darics struck by Darius e. c. 490 is among the lot; also a 10- drachma Greek coin with a deep cut as if to test the metal. The Greeks were rated great schemers and the Persians (a good deal among them during the wars of 490 — 70) no doubt surmised the probability of filling. The denarius, a Roman coin worth about 16 cents and nearly the size of a shilling, came into use 260 B. c. and was the customary daily wage 2000 years ago. The Jewish shekel was first issued in 140 b. c. by Simon Macabees with consent of Antiochus the Syrian king. The silver shekel was worth 50 cents, that of gold $8, with figure of a vessel (sup- iiJ'M ^ LONDON 229 posed to represent the pot of manna) and for inscription, ' shekel of Israel' and 'Jerusalem the holy.' The mite was of copper and about the size of a goose shot, flattened. The British penny was first of silver with two deep cuts across so as to be easily broken into half pence and farthings — four things. The goods are arranged according to centuries and one is surprised at small states, provinces and even cities having each a coinage for itself. The number is so vast that courage is apt to fail and examination is given up after a cursory glance. The collection of medals is large and of varied interest. That issued by Gregory XIII. to commemorate the Hugonot murder and a later copy are here shown. Napoleon was no less vain than skilled in war and generally recorded victories by an arch or medal. At one time he planned invasion of Britain and success being assured he ordered medals struck to prove the event. But like a tiger turning to hunt the hunter, John Bull seized the braggart and now Britons examine the electroype bronze with the wierd satis- faction one has on reading his own obituary notice. Ornaments and gems of ancient days are kept in a small room entered by special permission. Here is the much-prized Portland vase, a cinerary urn found four centuries ago in a sarcophagus supposed to be that of emperor Severus, killed in 235. The ground is of translucent blue with white opaque figures in relief; the vase is 10 inches high, 7 through at largest part and 2 mches at the neck. In 1770 it was purchased by Sir Wm. Hamilton, afterwards became property of the Portlands for the considerarion of $9,400, and since 18 10 has been at the museum. In 1845 a visitor dashed it to pieces, but it was so well repaired that no trace of fracture is noticed. Among the objects is an alabastar jar found at the mausoleum already noticed, inscribed — ' Xerxes the great king.' (Xerxes was Persian king from 485 to 465 b. c.) A gold snuff- box given by Napoleon to a Mrs. Damer with his picture on the cover and around the edge a row of brilliants about the size of goose-shot. In the glass collection is an amulet with name of an Egyptian king placed at about 2400 b. c. The number of printed book^ in the museum is now probably over 1,500,000 and rapidly increasing. Since 1814 the trustees have a right to one copy of every book published in the king- dom and some years no less than 40,000 copies are added by gift 01 purchase. The reading-room in center of the quadrangle was built at cost of $750,000 and is a marvel of convenience and comfort. The dome is 140 feet across, rises to a height of 106 and is covered with copper. There ar^ said to be 24 miles 3a :\i ' I] •3^ RAMBLES IN EUKOPB of shelving, and numerous attendants wait on the 500 or 600 readerR. (ieorge MI. was a famous book collector and after his death the library of 7 4,000 Volumns was presented to the If U8- tees. Many of the books arc rare aud costly, affording delight to those having a sharp tooth for such matters. Hooks old as the days of king Alfred and a book published in 1855 at cost of $30,000; aristocratic books printed on silk op sntin with ivory covers and so small as to find accommodation . in a watch- pocket; books large, showy and pompous; books strange, fan tas' tic and cranky; books warlike in mien and fierce in aspect, girt about with leather, fortified with bands of steel, clasps and bosses, ftrmed like ancient cities; 7a books illuminated, that is having small gay pictures among the reading; books in blunt, stubby, strange Hebrew letters and parchment rolls such as once u.sed in the temple; books written on leaves of plants and bkins of beasts; books on all subjects, in many tongues and ditto countries; books printed with wooded blocks i>rior to types of metal. Over too mss. in (ireek and Latin, some dating a century before Christ; a Latin ms. of the gospels (about 700) has in each side of the cover 6 large and 1 2 small gems; part of Homer's Iliad in un ial letters on pai)yrus, dating a century «. c, found in Egypt 1849, ^^^^ ^""""^ * palimpsest ms; (vellum) in which the original text of Homer is erased to accommodate some 9th century writing. The Mazarin bible issued at Mentx in 1455 is said to be the earliest printed from moveable type. * Recuyeil of the historyes of Troy,' printed in Holland by Caxton Was the first book in English. Next year Caxton came to Britain and struck off ' The Sayengis of Philosophres cnprynted by me Wm. Caxton at Westmestre the yere of our lorde 1477.' Samples of extraordinary binding, some with boards of ivory carved in high relief; samples of chained books. A map of the world (1290 — T3T0) represents the inhabited earth a circular island, Jerusalem in center and the ocean an interminable stream flowing round it. Some aldine books prmted at Venice nearly 400 years ago are marvels of the preservative art. Here is a copy of the book that caused Leo X. to confer on Henry VI IL the title ' Defender of the faith,' printed in London T521; not far off is the bull conferring said title, signed by the Pope and many cardinals. Copy of indulgence issued by Leo X. which caused the remonstrance from Luther; copies of magna charta, 1215; fragments of Homer's Iliad written on papyrus about 2000 years ago; the scriptures in Greek, uncial letters, on vellum, date 464; English bible that lielonged to Duke erf Gloucester, put to death <^., 1 I I LONDON I U. ^ A aji 1397) order in Council appointing Cromwell protector of the realm. First collected edition of Shakspeare, published 1623, with |)icture and titlepagc — • Mr. Wm. Shakspeare's comedies, hi.stories, trajedies printed according to the tru orignal copees;' and on the opposite page {\>y Hen. Jonson) — 'The picture thou here aeest i)ut, it was for Willie Shakspeare cut, wherein the grauer had a strife with nature to outdo the life. C) could he but have drawn his wit as well in brass as he has hit his face, the print wold then surpas all that was euer writ in bras. ' But since he canot, reader, looke not on his pictur but his booke.' Deed with signature of Shakspeare, 1613; agreement for the sale of ' Paradise lost,' with signature and seal of John Milton; inscription written on album by the same in 1657; enumeration of cavalry at Waterloo in the writing of Wellington; specimen copies written in youth by Kdward VI,, queen Elizabeth and Charles I. Letters from Erasmus (1530), Luther, Melancton, Calvin, Raleigh, Reuben;:, Kcmbrant, Philip Sydney, FrancLs Hacon, Newton^ Moliere, Dryden, Addison, Voltaire. George Washington commanding British troops in Virginia writes—* I could most sincerely wish our route was fixed that we might be in motion, for we are all tired and sick of inactivity, August 28, 1758.' Henry VI IL writes to VVolscy in this fashion — • Myne owne cardinall I recomande me unto yow with all myne hart and thanke yow for the grctte payne you dayly take in my bys- nes and maters, desyryng yow to take summe pastyme and c( ty^ fort to .he intente yow may the lenger endur to serve us, t r allvvays payne canott be induryd. Surely yow have so sub*- stauncyally orderryed owre maters bothe off thys syde the see and byonde that in myne oppynion littyll or no thyng can h6 addyd. Wryttyn by the hand off your lovynge maister Henry R. March, i.i^iS.' Letter from Anne Boylen before her mar- riage thanking Wolsey for helping on the match; letter from Jane Grey as queen; fromi Elizabeth, Charles I., Cromwell, Cardinal Wolsey, John Hampton, from Sir Thomas More to Henry VIII., ending — * I shold onys mete your grace agayne in hevyne and there be merry with you.' Letter from Richard Baxter, John- son, Garrick, Handel, Claverhouse, Whitefield, John Wesley, Lord Byron, Naiioleon I., Alexander Pope. There is also a volume (draft translations of the Iliad) written on back of old letters; no envelopes in tho.se days and people used large paper, half of which was generally blank. Great litterateur as he was, Pope did'nt believe in waste.' Letter from Nelson on eve of his last battle; below it in a tiny box from a splinter of the 'Victory' ■i'*''^'-''; ''. i! 434 RAMHI.es IN EUROPE is a luck of his hair. I idler from gencml (lot don lo his sister Mary Augiisla, daled — • K.harloiim, Kel)ruary ay, 1884. I sent Stewftrt off to scout the While Nile, another expedition to push hack rebels on the Hhie Nile. With Stewart has gone the British consul and ' Times ' correspomlent, so i am alone in this vast palace; hut not alone, for I leel great confidence in my Savior's presence. ' .♦> ♦ 1 helieve amhition put me here in this ruin; however I stay myself on the fact that not one spar- row falls without our Lord's permission. Man^h 1 — We are all right at present and I hope; hut things are not in good way humanly speaking. Haker's defeat at Suakin was a great disaster and had its effects here; hut it is nothing with our Lonl to help with many or few. • • • ' Four rooms contain nothing hut vases, Ihousandn of them, some dating back 2600 years, of all sizes, from every country and of varied materials — glass, hn)nze, terracotta, alahnster. Other rooms contain articles in hronze and nothing else — tools, implements, kitchen utensils, divinities in thousands from size of an inch to two feet; armlets, anklets, mirrors, strigili (bent scrap- ers for use in the l)ath), needles, hairpins, fishhooks, dividers, steelyani balance, bridle-hits scarcely different from those now in use. Shields, lamp-stands, bronze covering of Shalmaneser's gate, showing his exploits in picture language; plate of copper inscribed with treaty between two Italian tribes in the dim |>ast; numberless articles of unknown use. I failed to see any- thing that that lookeil like a screw-nail or pocket-knife — how did they get along without them ? The number of objects from the Pacific islands, China, Japan, India and different sections of Africa are almost Iwyond limit. Their various implements and appliances, weapons, defensive armor, musical instruments, cooking utensils, dress, ornaments, idols, models of houses, figures of reople, canoes and fishing outfits. In the New Zealand section are a cloak of aptcryx feathers, four ])re8erved tatooed heads, funnel tor feeding chiefs while bemg tatooed and the axe given to natives by Captain Cook. In another pari is the gun used by Alexander Selkirk (Robinson Crusoe), his name carefully cut in the stock. South-Kensington museum is of vast extent and many of the objects are in keeping. About the first thing one sees on enter- ing is a house-front of wood from Cairo, several centuries old; also latticed windows from the same place; cast of sculptured chimney piece from Brughes, 36 feet wide, 20 feet high, the opening t$ feet across, date T530; cast of pulpit from Pisa 13 ^l«liMHiMMWMHl«MiM«N|l)«««ii lonihjn 0i$ of the enter- js old; [ptured ih, the >isa 13 feet high, date fjoa; cast of bronze 7-branched candlestick, tB feet high and large in proportion; boudoir of Marie Antoinette ((|ueen of liouls XVI.) vahied al $10,000; great vase of Sevres porcelain presented by Napoleon III. to Cobden on effecting a treaty between Kngland and France; a marble singing gallery (cantoria) from a church in Florence, erected about 1500, a marvel of fine work; copy of Dayeux tapestry. [The original is a roll of canvas or linen tto feet long, ao inches wide, embroidered with woolen thread of 8 different colors, representing the Nor- man conquest in 1066. It was long thought to be the work of William's wife but critics contend that it belongs to a century or two later. The web (preserved at Uayeux) has 7 a scenes and at least 1 500 figures of men and horses. J Copy of Trajan's pillar at Rome, base ai feet square, the whole 147 feet high, diameter 13 feet. It is in two pieces, but even then, an immense object to show in a house. The original is entirely of marble and was put up in 114 to commemorate the victories of emperor Trajan. Model of gateway said to have stood previous to the Trojan war; state barge of James I., nearly 300 years old, 63 feet long and impelled by 20 oars; fire-engine built in l^ondon in 1721, also squirt-guns used for putting out fires previous to that date; room from a house in Damascus, about 22 feet square, with divans and pillows; state carriage of George III. built in 1760, hind wheels 6 feet high, axles 1 2 feet apart; model of Chinese villa» size 26 inches square and 24 high, mostly carved ivory. It formed part of a present from the emperor of China to Josephine wife of Napoleon; but the French ship was captured and the gift fell into other hands. After treaty of Amiens in 1802 the British offered to restore the present, but Napoleon being in high dudgeon would'nt accept. A Chinese screen in 12 folds, 26 feet long 1 1 feet high, valued at $5000; wall hangings of em- broidered crimson silk, formerly belonging to an empress of China; earthenware medallion 12 feet across, with raised flowers along the margin, shield and arms in center — simply a gigantic plate made in Italy 440 years ago. Asiatics are expert at carv* ing and constiucting models. Here is a state procession cut in ivory, 3 elephants, 3 camels. 5 horses, soldiers, a band and about 50 perfons; a dancing party of 26 figures is also shown in ivory; state barge with 20 figures; garden watered by a Persian vheel; gun and carriage cut in agate and mounted with silver; large model of Indian village with market in full uwing, monkeys stealing fruit whenever one's back is turned. Colossal bronze sitting figure of Japanese gode.ss; wooden latticed windows from -^ 1^ 334 RAMBLES IN EUROPE i| Cairo, date i6oo; piles of Japane&e pottery, one jar dating back 640 B. c, bottle 730J great vases 7 feel high. Typoo Sahib, sultan of Mysore, had no good will to the English and he had a machine made in form of a tiger tearing an Englishman to pieces, a kind of organ which on being started produced sounds as of a human being in distress. This was sweetest music to Tipoo, who was killed at storming of Seringa patam 1799. The organ was seized among the spoil, and iho complete in outward form, voice is wantmg. Musical instruments from the simplest and rudest to the most complete and perfect, a virginal that belonged to queen Elizabeth among the lot : the spinet, virginal and clavicord (all simila'^ were steps between ancient harps and the modern piano — only a harp in essential features. Here is a base viol 8^ feet long, the body about 6 feet and 4 across the widest part; a violin bearing date 1579, given by Elizabeth to her favorite Leicester; harpsichord once owned by Handel; spinets over 300 years old. Seals of all British sovereigns from Edward the Confessor, seals of barons, bishops and abbots — in all 360. At first * the great seals ' were two inches across, now they are 6 inches. Great variety of antique watches, some not much larger than a cherry and crowded with jewels; others four inches across and seemingly pounds in weight; some with fou- dials; some enclosed in crystal, showing the pulse-beats of tin A mirror of burnished metal valued at $6,300; chess table dati from 1540 and valued at $7,800; Dents' glass-spring chrono- meter; a clock with vacuum escapement; a back-comb 20 inches wide, another 13x16 inches; crown and shield of king Theodore taken at capture of Magdala; cast of two-wheeled carriage found in a moss or bog at Jutland, supposed to date from A. D., .JOG to 500; pendulum perhaps 60 feet Idng showing diurnal rotation of the earth. Most all the early steam-engines and locomotives are here; * sun-and-planet ' engine made by Watts in 178-5, in use till 1885; 'puffing-billy' the oldest loco- motive in existence, made 1813 and worked till t86o; the * rocket' made by Geo. Stephenson in 1829 for the Liverpool- Manchester railroad, opened in 1830; prmting press said to have been used by Ben. Franklin; reaping m.achine invented in 1826 by Rev. Patrick Bell of Scotland and working till f867. Many were invented since the variety mentioned by Pliny 1830 years ago, yet unquestionably Bell's was the first ihat contained the elements of success. Copy of original sewing-machine made in Paris 1830, bearing small resemblance to those used at present. The idea of propelling vessels by screw was started 120 years ^\^i * . LONDON If ack Itan d a 1 to inds ic to The tfVLTd plest that ginal I and ; is a s the % th to Lndel; from s — in , now e not s four fou- tin iati irono- ib 20 king leeled date )wing jgines ie by loco- the |rpool- have 1826 |Many I years Id the ide in lesent. years back and a number of models show the advancement, till about 50 years ago the scheme arrived at its present state. In earlier attempts an actual screw was placed under the keel or at the stern, as seen in the models. Here is shown the engine of the ♦Comet,' built near (ilasgow in 181 1 and rated the first suc- cessful attempt at steam navigation; also model of engine and paddles of the ♦ Great Eastern.' >r'«' • The natural history museum is 670 feet long, covers four acres, cost $1,750,000 and among the handsomest buildings in London. In the entrance hall 170x97 feet and 72 in height, is the skeleton of a whale over 50 feet long and tho not the largest of its kind, makes a respectable figure. In passing along these acres of halls peopled with stuffed birds and beasts, one wonders if earth had not been denuded to stock the vast menagerie. One almost fancies himself a pigmy when wandering through a jungle ot great beasts as natural in appearance as life. Giraffes rising within an inch or two of 20 feet; elephants 10 to 13 feet and vast of bulk; hippos and rhinoceros nearly as large, tho less tall; an ostrich able to look over a man's hat were he 9 feet in stature; then deer, antelope, Indinn cattle, buffalo, all rising above the spectator; great bears In e as horses, tho not so tall. Monkeys from size of squirrels to ihe orang-outang almost large as a person; the gorilla big enough to weigh 200 pounds, slightly human in form but without a shade of love in its terrible features; seals and sea-lions 12 to 15 feet long; beavers with industrious habits and helpful tails; the llama a South-American occupying middle-ground between camel and sheep; bats with about two yards' spread of wing. Birds in amazing variety of size, shape and color — many of extravagant beauty. Next, fishes from 50 feet long to size of minnows, some ill-formed and hideous; fishes much broader than long, fishes with beak like a bird and fishes that build nests. Then a gastly array of skeletons, once cover- ed with the skins above-mentioned; skeleton of mammoth (ex- tinct) 14 feet long, about 13 feet high, much resembling an ele- phant; skull of extinct elephant, tusks probably ii}4 feet long and 9 inches thick; skeleton of extinct ruminant, apparently' large as the ivofy*producer; skeleton of sea-cow 27 feet long; skeleton of Irish elk (extinct) 8 feet high at shoulder and about 13 feet to top of antlers, these 18 inches at widest part and 11 feet between points — weight of horns 80 to 90 pounds; also individual bones that must have belonged to larger animals than any mentioned. Here are shells, apparently in millions, and some of rare beauty. Ammonite shells (in fossil) three to four ill 1 9^6 RAMBLES IN kUROPE it feet acroBB, size and shape of a large grindstone; a giant clam- shell ^1x33 inches; slabs of stone with foot prints of birds and beasts; human skeleton embedded in Mmestone. Fine collection of minetals; models of noted diamonds and other stones; mass of jade 1 1 56 pounds; gold snuff-box set with 14 large und hun- dreds of small diamonds, presented to Sir R. Murchison by the Emperor of Russia; also fine quartz vase 4)^ feet high on ped- estal of porphyry. Model of nugget found at Ballarat, Australia, in 1358, the largest mass of native gold ever seen, ao inches long, IT wide, 7 to 8 thick, weight of pure gold 3a63 ounces; also model of one found the same year lao miles from Mel- bourne, weight 145 pounds troy. A large collection of meteor- ites, the biggest 3 yi tons, found in Australia; others ranging down to a few ounces. i^jts^^f-m-pi^^ Bethnal Green museum in eastern part of the city and over 6 miles from the last mentioned, is mostly ot an industrial nature. Here are seen raw materials and the various stages of manufac- ture — silk, bt^inning with cocoons and following to the finished fabric; the same in the case of wool. Hatmaking is shown from first to last; the various processes in manufacture of leather and uses to which applied; piece of leather from human skin. A Jcles made from horn, bone and ivory. (In 1886 Britain imported bones for manure to the value of $1,500,000.) Cos- tume of people in various countries; composition of the human body, the various elements shown in cubes; njodels of all vege- tables used as food, a bean-pod 1 5 inches long. Sugar from diffc^nt sources; process of making gold-leaf. Four chairs, lounge and fable, ivory carved open work and gilt, a present to Warren Hastings from an Inoian prince; several interior views of St. Peters at Rome, with many other pictures. Perhaps the greatest curiosity is a 6-inch hawser of women's hair, 700 feet long, 550 pounds in weight, made in Japan. It was made by order of government for seme special purpose, but when finish- ed in 6 years and brought to Yeddo, the bearers were told it was not required, as stronger cables were now made of steel. The United-Servic^ museum is near 'Scotland Yard' and Whitehall, namea familiar to the reader. The objects are mostly connected with bloodshed and of immense interest; but lest the reader be wearied of such r. -otters, only a few will be men- tioned: revolver 200 years old; sword-bladed shot; guillotine used at Guadaloupe before 1794 which struck off at least 50 heads; anchor 1 1 feet long from one of the armada vessels wrecked on the coast of Ireland 1588; plan 12 feet square giv- >. : LONDON 337 views |ips the )o feet ide by finish- Itold it teel. and I mostly )ut lest • le men- lillotine jast 50 [vessels ire giv- ing the position of ships at Trafalgar battle; model of the •Victory;' cocked-hat and laurel wreath from the cofFm of Nelson; a quantity of spirits in which his body was taken home after death; small bunch of his hair; models of nearly every ship in the navy; cocked-hat of Wellington; saddle of Blucher; skele- ton of the horse Napoleon rode at Waterloo; plan of the battle- field 20. feet square; j)iece of gate from Hugomont, pierced with bullets; Hags, pistols, crosses and eagles picked up after the battle; flags and many trophies froh^ the Russian war; also plan of the ground about 20 feet square; plans of other Imttle-fields, fortifications and harbors. Chelsea hospital (for used-up soldiers), built in time of Charles II. pleasantly stands along the fiver two miles west of the Abbey and a mile south of Kensington museum. The ground consists of 67 acres nicely laid out in lawns, flower-beds and walks, with some captured guns and piles of 36-inch shells to remind the inmates of past conditions. The building has room for 600 men (538 at time of my visit), a small sleeping apartment for each with large rooms for eating, reading and gaming. Round the walls are pictures of nofd battles, with picture of the com- manding officer above. The inmates appeared happy, most of them playing at dominos or cards. The last Waterloo brave died shortly l)efore my visit and his picture hangs on the wall. A comfortable chapel completes the outfit, and high up in the nave are hung old flags taken in many encounters — French flags taken in Egyj)t, at Blenheim, at Waterloo, at the Peninsular war of 1812; flags taken at the Crimea, at the Indian mutiny, at the Seikh war, two standards from Typoo Sahib and a flag frojn the renowned Dutch admiral Van Tromp in time of Elizabeth, Of many nothing remains but tl^ sticks and others would have disappeared were it not that patriotic ladies had woven nets about them. Near at hand (in 24 Cheyne row) Carlyle lived from 1834 to '81. and a tablet in the wall states the fact. In a small garden by the river sits a bronze statue of the Chelsea sage, Greenwich with some 42,000 is to right of the Thames, 4 miles below London bridge; its manufactures consist of telegraph cables, ship rockets, wire rope, india-rubber and artificial stone. The royal observatory established in 1675 stands on a hill .1 mile back from the river, A large building originally a palace in which Henry VIII. anrl his daughters Elizabeth and Mary were born, was 200 years ago fuied as home {>.. disabled seamen. Some 40 years back the institution commanded a revenue of $75,000, lodged 2700 men; had a governor, lieut.-govemor and il I 34 'a. , 2.^8 RAMBLES IN EUKUP£ 20 Other officials beside two chaplains and a large medical staff. In 187 1 the inmates were elsewhere provided, since which the place has been a kind of naval college; and the old cage has many interesting things ''i connection with war and the ocea'h. ' The painted hall ' ha ,tatues of Nelson, Duncan, How, St. Vincent, Exmouth, Sydney Smith, a large relief tablet to Sir John Franklin, while the walls are covered with pictures of renowned admirals, together with the following sea-fights — Nelson boarding the San Nicholas, battle of St. Vincent, victory of the Nile, battle ot Trafalgar, bombardment of Algiers by Exmouth, victory of admiral Bing over a Spanish fleet, relief of Gibraltar by Rodney, destruction of French off Lahogue by Rooke, Hood defeating the French in 1782, victory at Camper- down by Duncan, victory off Ushant (How), defeat of French fleet at Barfieur in 1693, death of Captain Cook, and the Belle- rophon with Napoleon on board. Most of the pictures are good, and while viewing them one almost fancies the smell of powder and shock of battle. In a museum are models of warships from 'Great Harry' (of about 1000 tons) built in 1514, down t,o the era of steel-clads in our own time. Ten are fully rigged, 65 hulls are m model and 80 in form of section. The largest model is 1 2 feet long, the masts 9 or i o feet in height. The ])lace is crowded with curiosities connected with ship):ing — among ihem a slab of compact stone riddled by marine insects. The most interesting however are the relics of Nelson — here are the coat and cravat worn by him at battle of the Nile; gun, sabre and canteen pre- sented to him by the sultan; coat, vest, sword and watch worn at Trafalgar and other objects. The bullet that caused his death entered under the epaulette on his left shoulder, and the white linen vest is stained with' blood. A small room is entirely hung with the hero's pictures, one intended to show the nation's grief represents him brer thing his last folded in the arms of a beautiful woman. Nelson was the darling of British people, which is not strange when all things are considered. Little stood between Napoleon and universal em!)ire but the small realm of Britain, and humanly speaking that was saved by wooden walls and the genius cf Nelson. With the French vic- torious at Trafalgar as at Jena or Wagram one scarcely cares to contemplate the issue; and it is- no wonder the nation's bosom heaved and that tears of joy were mixed with groans of sorrow on hearing how ended the fight. Woolwich is also by the river side 4 or 5 miles below Green- wich, with perhaps 40,000 people. Here general Gordon began; ''w*.*Jtj^^^-s«*>j*j»to— ■■- LONDON 239 I Staff. :h the ge has oceaVi. >w, St. to Sir ires of ghts— victory ers by :, relief )gue by lamper- French e Belle- e good, powder ps from 1 \p the 65 hulls del is 12 [:rowded slab of cresting cravat :en pre- ch worn sed his and the entirely nation's ms of a people, Little ; small ved by ich vic- ar es to bosom sorrow Green- began life in 1833, and here every artillery officer and recruit must learn his business. The arsenal, an immense factory of arms and missiles, is the only attraction and tp my notion it is enough. Were I again in London with only time to visit one of the half- dozen great sights I would select Woolwich — but I know tastes differ. The works are 3)^ miles in circuit, facing the river and surrounded by high walls with two gates, each guarded by sentinels;' and while in the grounds one must not be seen making notes or applying a rule to take measure. From 12,000 to ^5,000 are usually at work, the larger number being there at my last visit; 500 people make an average congregation, and the reader may fancy 30 such crowds together. My first thought was about the expense, followed by the suggestion that a fire-and- *• sword pnnciple of settling disputes contains a large element of madness. All these thousands working year after year with the ultimate object of destroying life and treasure! But not all the guns and missiles turned cut in time of peace will ever reach a field of battle; improved aims are constantly invented and many weapons that last year were made in fiery haste at cost of cart loads of money, are next year thrown on the scrap-heap or broken up for remelting. The shop where most of the brass- work is done has (I was told) 1600 workmen, and is a regular jungle of belts and shafts, each belt running some kind of machine. Even the brar,s shell of an ordinary carfidge under- goes 1 1 operations on as many presses. I make no reference to the immense number of brass things for shells, torpedoes and. time missiles. The lead for bullets comes from crucibles near by in endless coil, is wound on reels, cut and shaped by several presses. The wood shop is also a usy place — sawing, planing, mortising and dovetailing, all done by automatic machinery of the best kind. The work here largely consists of ammunition boxes, rushed up as if the French were landing at Dover. In another shop wooden models are made for all kinds of castings. A cooper shop turns out powder barrels at a brisk rate, all except setting the staves on end and driving on hoops being done by machinery. In the pattern house are seen samples of every cartridge, bolt, shel!, rockec, torpedo fuse or signal, each with a small cotton bag attached in which is a government seal. Coal-dust is used instead of nowder and things so charged are named ' dummies.' The hnrncss shop is a big affair and con- tained I was told an outfit for j 2,000 troops; from appearance I supposed it would equip three times as many. Trappings for artillery horses were in eciua! force. The ground floor is taken ■i '4 .1 II 51 i 1 I ! l-i Ill I 240 RAMBLES IN EUROPE swabs and rammens. Many great iron castings; next, shops with up with blocks, cordage, foundries for heavy brass and machinery ponderous as i/ intended to batter a mountain to pieces. Immense lathes turning or boring great iron shafts' 20 to 30 feet long and two to three feet thick, no hand needing to touch them — these great cylinders of iron or steel shaved off or bored easily as a stick of poplar. Guns in all stages and sizes — iron and steel bars scattered about or in piles as logs round a saw-mill. Great heaps of ' scraj) ' where cannon and shell are being reduced for melting; a heap of iron, steel and copper shavings covers perhaps a quarter acre to a depth of 9 or 10 feet — no doubt thousands of tons. Some shavings are 60 feet long and half an inch thick — others fine as hairs. Think of steel bars 24 inches square, the largest I saw was 28 inches — *• like great pieces of square timber. Acres covered with p&lisser shot (in length 4 feet to 6 inches), piled like cordwood; acres covered with guns of many sizes, ranged in tiers. The largest gun hitherto made is 44 feet long, 40 feet length of barrel and 161^ inches bore; the chamber 7 feet long and 21 inches across, the powder charge 960 pounds. The projectile of 1800 pounds leaves the muzzle with a striking force of 50,000 tons, sufficient to penetrate 30 inches of iron at 1000 yards. The effective range is about 8 miles and with proper elevation the boll will extend 1 1 miles at least. Its height at the breach is probably 1 o feet and v.'ith its crddle or stand the gun weighs 1 1 1 tons. Tho at Woolwich arsenal at time of my visit, it was made at the Arm- strong works near Newcastle. If correctly informed, each charge costs $500 to $600. The missile is 4^ feet long, 16^ inches across and pointed at forward end. The largest hammer at the works is 42 tons, has a fall of 30 feet and by using back steam delivers a blow of 850 tons. The machinery is so perfect that it can be stopped within half an inch. At time of my visit a bar of iron steel (about a foot square) was being forged, and every blow sunk 3 or 4 inches, while only a fraction of the force was applied. It may also be stated that one of the furnaces is capa- ble of melting 16 tons of metal at once. The whir of belting, crash of machinery, thud of giant hammers are heard on every side, while an occasional boom of cannon shakes the earth. Among the curiosities is a field-gun with 9 shot marks, one having broke in the muzzle. The Crystal pa!lace, on high ground 7 or 8 miles south of London, is considered by some the greatest sight in or about the city. This wonderful structure of iron and glass was first Is, one luth of about IS first LONDON 241 erected in Hyde park for the exhibition of 1851 at cost of $1,750,000. It is 1600x300 feet in area, with center transept 198 feet high; two water-towers 280 feet high at ends of the palace with tanks at top holding 357,000 gallons and supplying a pressure by which the fountains throw 1 20,000 gallons per minute. Along the nave are growing palms, ferns, plants and trees belo/iging to warmer countries, interspersed with ethno- logical groups, statues and colossal figures. In the center is a glass fountain 14 feet high, a really attractive object. Along the sides are courts fitted up as much as possible to show the architecture of various times and countries. In the Eyptian court a successful attempt is made to show the temple of Karnac on reduced scale, with avenues of pillars and giant statues. In the Greek court is a model of the Parthenon or temple of Athene, tutelary deity of Athens; round the frieze ate inscribed the names of men distinguished in war, council or letters, as Solon, Pericles and Plato. In the Roman court are models of the coloseum and Pantheon, and round the walls are statues of Apollo, Venus, Diana and others. Next is a copy of the lion court from the Alhambra, a Moresque palace at Granada in Spain, rated the finest specimen of Moorish art in existence. In the Italian court are some fine ceilings and a model Pompeii house true to minutest details; on entering a visitor is warned by a mosaic CAVE CANEM and over a side-door is the friendly salve. The marble-floored atrium has impluvium in the center, while around are offices and sleeping apartments. A Chinese room contains interesting things from that country, The design of all this was doubtless to give persons unable to go abroad an idea of how buildings look in other lands. A gallery extends at 60 feet from the floor on which are a great number of busts, a fine collection of paintings and industrial museum. In the latter are a comb 6 feet in length made from a single horn, an earthenware pickle- jar 14 feet high with a capacity of nearly a thousand gallons. Throughout the building are numerous restaurants and gay pavilions where attractive trinkets are sold. The concert gallery with a superior organ has room for 5000 persons and excellent entertainments are frequently given. The grounds (over 200 acres) are interspersed with lawns, wood, shrubbery and grottos. In and round a small lake are scattered a dozen or two models of animals belonging to an earlier stage — lizards over 30 feet and quadrupeds alongside of which an elephant would make a small figure. Showy band-stands and frequent oilt-door con- certs. The display of fire and water-works on special evenings 1 94^ RAMBLES IN EUROPE i'-' is thought to be unsurpassed, whereas the admission to all the sights is extremely moderate. Albert ^all close to Kensington gardens is a huge b'ick struc- ture, 800 feet round with a dome of painted glass. It is used for large concerts, seats 8000 persons, and its organ (worked by a steam-engine) is rated among the best manufactured. A num- ber of pictures are shown along the upper galleries,,which also serve as a promenade. Across the street stands Albert memo- rial, a sculptured spire 180 feet, with at bottom a gilt statute of Prince Albert under an azure canopy in which flash a thousand gems. At the corners below are four sculptured groups repre- senting Europe, Asia, Africa, America; on the platform groups representing agriculture, engineering, manufacture, commerce, and cut in relief along the base are figures of 160 men famous in all spheres of praiseworthy effort. The whole cost is placed at $600,000. Near by it looks pretty with gems, gilt, tinsel, reliefs, sculpture and subsidiary groups; seen a little way off it lacks the simple majesty of Scott's monument at Edinburg, tho costing over seven limes as much money. Trafalgar square, , rated the finest spot i^ Europe, is half a mil<; north of the Abbey and flanked by noted buildings. In the center is Nelson's monument, a handsome shaft rising 170 feet crowned by the hero's statue; and on pedestals round the base Landseer's four enormous lioni", the whole costing $140,000. fwo fountains, an equestrian ftatue of George IV. that cost $47,000 (good in- vestment), statues of admiral Napier and generals Outram, Havelock and Gordon. The National gallery alongside con- tains works of British and foreign artists, Landseer's marvellous dogs among the best canvas. That noted center Charing-cross fronts the square, while a vista along Whitehall terminates with parliament house and Westminster Abbey. From here Victoria embankment extends over a mile to east — a broad street with footway each side, two rows of trees, a tier of lamp-posts and a river wall of granite four feet thick — the whole costing $10,000,- 006. On the river wall about mid-distance stands * Cleopatra's needle ' a granite obelisk 68 feet long, 8 feet wide at base and 160 tons in weight. It was quarried in upper Egypt about 3300 years ago, lay for centuries at Alexandria and was in 18 19 pre- sented to Britain in memory of Nelson and Abercromby. Gov- ernment seemed in no hurry to bring home the gift and at length Erasmus Wilson offered $50,000 for landing it safely in Britain, ^ohn Dixon accepted the offer, built round it with timber and was towing along with flying colors till meeting a LONDON ^43 ill the struc- used Led by L num- h also memo- tute of )usand repre- groups iraerce, Famous placed , tinsel, y off it irg, tho square, ; Abbey lelson's 1 by the r's four iQtains, jood in- )utram, ie con- rvellous ig-cross :es with ictoria et with :s and a 0,000,- patra's se and t 3300 19 pre- Gov- and at |afely in it with eting a gale the rock became unmanageable and had to be cut adrift, after six of the crew were lost in the struggle. All supposed the stone had sunk, but the unexpected mostly happens, for a steamer came foul of the derelict and towed it into Ferrol at North-west of Spain. In due time it reached home and in 1878 was erected on a site which few could fancy. The bank of England half mile north of London Bridge is a low, sullen, selfish-looking place occupying 3 acres and bounded by four streets. The business was started in 1691 by a Scot named Paterson; a charter was got in 1694 and the capital of $6,000,000 was lent to William and Mary. At the renewal in 1844 government owed $55,000,000, and now the institution is rated at about $80,000,000, doubtless the most financially solid kind. The business is conducted by a governor, deputy of its and 24 directors; the former must own at least $20,000 stock each of the latter $10,000. (The usual price of Xioo-stock is about .£230.) I see it stated that in clerks, porters and servants, tii2 bank employs no less than 1 000 persons, the yearly pay-roll being close to $1,250,000. Many tons of gold are kept in the vaults in bars about 16 pounds, and worth each above $4000. Weighing appliances of wonderful delicacy are in use: one machine is capable of weighing 35,000 individual sovereigns a day, casting aside all below the test figure. The standard clock has 16 faces, one in as many different rooms. A good library is among the outfit, and every night a number of soldiers .with some, trusted clerks are on duty. East of the bank is the exchange, Threadneedle street passing between. The original building was put up in 1567 and burnt in the great fire a century later; a second (erected m 1669 and burnt in 1838) was extre- mely ornate with carved walls, lofty tower and statues of English kings to George IV. The present exchange is a handsome structure 390 feet long (conforming in shape to the area between Cornhill and Threadneedle) and erected in 1845 ^^ cost of $750,000. In the east end are Lloyd's apartments — a company of ship insurers so named from originally meeting in Lloyd's tavern, London. The ' list ' (started in 1716 and published daily since 1800) gives the latest shipping news from all parts. In front of the exchange is a fine equestrian statue of Wellington which cost $56,000, and at the back a statue of George Peabody who in 1869 gave $2,500,000 to erect dwellings for the laboring classes in London. King William street extends frhni the exchange to London bridge and is usually packed to suffocation, largely owing to the bridge traffic. 'i il !. a44 RAMBLES IN EUROPE The railway system of Britain is very complete and it is claimed that except by faulty construction no accident can happen. The track is divided into sections of 3 or 4 miles and each must be clear before another train in allowed to enter. Curves and grades are less frequent than on Canadian lines, but cuttings and tunnels arc plenty. A passenger car is made up of a dozen sections, each having two seats facing, a door on each side, usually locked at starting. Except the top strata of society, nearly all travel third class, which on most of the lines IS good enough for a peer. Cars o** the fir ! order are luxurious, with arm rests each side, the back of seat., rising above one's head. Some lines have discarded second class altogether on account of being rarely used. Stations ha\e refreshment-rooms of three classes, lest in a hurry a lord might chance to rub sleeves with a trader. No pulling off coat and hat to overtake an express, none dare to step on board after a train has started, none allowed to come out till it has stopped completely. Cross- ing a track is not permitted except to employes, and one has sometimes to walk 200 or 300 yards to reach a place only 5 or 6 yards distant. But with frequency of trains and high rate of travel, the utmost caution is needed — 200 trains a day and even 300 passing through a station is not uncommon. Some racers take water from tanks in the road-bed while dashing along at 10 miles in 9 minutes and by simple contrivance mail-bags are taken on board without halt — anything Ic prevent stoppage. The benefits of competition are evident here — each line striving to add some inducement without increasing the price. The stations are models of order, if not always convenient; and let me add here that a good idea of London's population and business can be formed from its railway depots. Large cities have seldom more than two or three stations and many places with only one would choke in wrath were they called little — what must be the extent of a town that requires a dozen and nearly all vast termini of great lines from the country. Except Liverpool terminus, Midland station London, is the largest and most magnificent in Britain; and did Charing-cross station exist a century ago, strangers would suppose it to be some vast tes- plendent palace. Several indeed are immense hotels, the rail- way business conducted in the lower part. It is interesting to watch long passenger trains starting and returning from the north, with their freight of many hundred people — excitement and din of pnssengers, rush and rumble of porters. There being no system of checks, each must spy out his own dummage. LONDON M5 Now a little about London underground travel. New York and Brooklyn have their elel'ated lines, but London is the only place in which people like rodents have learned to burrow. I have no idea how many hundred miles of track are under the city, but including the suburbs there must be at least 500 stations. Sometime ago the yearly number of passengers reached 1 10,000,000, about equal to the number of seconds in 3)^ years. At some stations a train passes every minute and it is inter- esting to watch the movements, a great system of machinery with human beings for cogs and pinions. On entering one takes his place in a line, advancing by degrees through a kind of funnel opposite a window where tickets are sold at about one per second. No matter how difficult the change, it comes in one instant. The stream then passes a ticket puncher and con- tinues down a chute to the platform; a train arrives, disgorges freight, takes in others and is off in 6 seconds. No loitering, no hand-shaking, everything like clock-work. Those who land pass up a series of stah-s and windings, give up their tickets and are out on the street. No getting in except past the puncher, no way out except by the right one; this is no unusual rush, but a steady stream day and night, all seasons, all weathers. The road bed is solid, cars move as if gliding on ice and the iron- horse is brought to halt in about three seconds. As signal for s art the guard (conductor) blows a small whistle; locomotive v/histles are shrill, feeble and liule used, not as here where a good fraction of power is spent in screeching. Did locomo- tives in London have as much to say as in this country, it would be a dismal place to inhabit. Offices have not only a ticket window for each class, but for each important section, so that one has only to plank his money, with the remark ' return ' or * single.' I like the European mode of having its price marked on each ticket. Underground travel may not be pleasant, but necessity established the scheme and keeps it running. There are only about 50 tram-car lines in the city, traffic preventing their use on crowded streets. The old-fashioned omnibus is on 200 routes, while hansom cabs and four-whet!ers are in thou- sands. Pavements are of stone, wood and asphalt, each having advocates to uphold the superiority of its claim. Without being unduly exact, London may have 2500 streets, . circus, lanes and crescents. Only few streets are of great length and these have many names. Take one for example, beginning 5 miles west ot St. Pauls as Goldhawk-road,^ then Uxbridge-road, Notting-hill; along Hyde-park it is Bay swater- road, then changes 36 ,1 246 RAMBLES IN EUROPE into Oxford-Street, New Oxford, Holburn-viaduct, Newgate- street, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadeflhall; then merges into Aid- gate, VVhitechapel, High-street and Whitechapel-road. Take another — 6 miles west of St. Pauls it is High-road, then King- street, Hammersmith-road, Kensington -road, Kensington-gore, Knight's-bridge, and at Hyde-park corner becomes Piccadilly, then Coventry-street, Cranbourn-street, Long-acre and Great Queen-street. Over 670 streets are called ' roads,' as Camden- road, Euston-road, City-road; St. is prefixed to about 50, as St. George, St. James, St. Mary Axe. There are 33 King-streets, 24 Queen-streets, 25 New-slreets and 18 Old, 23 Park-roads, 22 High-streets, 21 Great-streets, 20 Church-streets and 14 Prince- streets. People of every nationality and dress are seen on London streets — the Syrian from Damascus, the Hindoo from Calcutta. A circus clown or Indian cbief in official costume would draw small attention. Along the crowded parts a person on foot has to watch sharply or lie may need the hand of a surgeon or to be carried away on a stretcher : respect to .^lersonal safety deters him from examining objects, however interesting, ^long his route. The top of an omnibilg is the best position for viewing the sights. Sometimes a dozen or two men are seen walking with slow and steady step along the curb, at some disitance apart, wearing beavers twice the length sanctioned by fashion, affording room for advertisements pinned round them. During the heat of summer one meets a line of men dressed entirely in furs, great tall caps, coats and nether garments, an advertisement pinned on somewhere. The old-fashioned variety of a board at front and back for display of posters has becom« too tame and is being replaced by a style more fantastic. ' Walking advertisements ' are mostly used by theaters and flash entertainments, the bill- carriers receiving a shilling a day from agents who themselves get two shillings. Among the good schemes of general Booth was to cast aside those merciless * middlemen ' and pay the bill- carriers what they so dearly earned. Covent garden, a vegetable, fruit and flower market, is one of the London sights, seen from 5 to 7 a. m. During much of the night wagons are rumbling along from the country, laden with requisites for the famed mart, and by 6 a. m. business is in full vigor. Here are barricades of cabbage, turnips, cauliflowers and minor vegetables of many names, ten feet in height and wide in proportion. Later come the flowers in such numbers, variety and beauty that I forbear attempt at individual comment. Among the good qualities of English people is an extraordinary LONDON «47 love of flowers and j»robahly a sum equal fo the revenue of a young city is laid out in London yearly fdr blooms. One is ' surprised to see persons in humble life, currying off for home decoration quantities that must have cost no small figure. Flowers they seem to regard as prime necessity, and the writer is far from pronouncing the fraction so spent by name of ex- travagance. Women and girlK buy urttaW lots of vegetables or flowers which they retail singly or ini bunches along the streets. One day passing a market I saw an fcld dame sitting motionless on the ground, with a quantity of greens on her lap she was tying in bunches to sell. Among the rush and din of trading how did she escape unhurt ? but |here she sat motion!ess as a statue, a bunch of leeks in jjer left hand, a long spfear of grass for tying them in her mouth and fast asleep. With a cilrious head- dress, an odd shrewd expression on her red bloated featufe.s, she formed a most comical picture; while amid the din' of tongues and hurry of feet this sleeping beauty reposed serenely as in a curtained alcove by a crook of the Nile. After advancing a short way, I returned — the sleeper had been disturl)ed, but the spear of grass was between her lips, while both eyes were being indus- triously rubbed preparatory to waking. London is unquestionably the world's mart for old books. Here one may pick out literary treasures scarcely soiled, at from one-fourth to one-tenth of original figures; and I venture to say that for $5 a better library could be purchased than is found in not a few respectable houses. Of course duty and expense of bringing them here would add* some 20 per cent extra. The sale of prints cut from newspapers and magazines is actively prosecuted by small boys at one to three cents a cut. In parts where pavemC^jts are broad, smooth and not crowded, persons make a business of drawing pictures, usually burning ships and prairies on fire — such exhibitions of art bemg rewarded by an occasional penny. Any encouragement more solid would doubt- less multiply the number and materially interfere with travel. London streets are never emp y; the whir of cabs and landau« conveying lovers of pleasure from theji^ers, balls and revels, mingle with the slow nimble of laden wheels brmging commo- dities in to early markets. With the g tially great hotels, with culinary fit-out rarely surpassed and chief cooks that would scarcely feel complimented by an interview with a lord. Lnxurious reading-rooms are supplied with papers, and gaming apartments with varied facilities for amusement. The postoffice building is 300 feet long and has a gallery all round fr«m which proceedings may be inspcted. What a hive of industry it is — hundreds of (apparently) old-fashioned box- pews, each ]«vith its clerks and all busy as bees in a meadow. The maa in charge of the mint appears not anxious to entertain strangers and only part of the workings are seen. The weighing appliances , are exceedingly perfect and of delicatie touch. At time of my visit Canadian lo cents were being coined, also .£5 pieces which failed to ^o into circulation and are held at a pre- mium. They are magnificent coin, larger than the United-States $20 and look a good deal like medals. The brewery of Barclay & Perkins (second of its kind in extent) was started in 1780, covers 1 6 acres,, employs over 600 men in the various uses of vatmen, coopers and teamsters. A well 450 feet supplies water and loo-horse power steam-engine supplies power for raising it to ^he surface. The place is a jungle of enormous vats, tanks and appliances of which I had small knowledge. The tanks are of slate and miniature lakes in extent; some vats are tall as a two-story house and one is said to contain twice as much as the famed Heidelberg tun. In the tables are 160 horses kept in the best of prime condition, which seems to be the happy lot of brewer nags in every clime. The firm employs $10,000,000 capital, while the five partners are probably worth $50,000,000. The London board has in operation 400 schools with about 500,000 pupils at a yearly cost of over $r 5 each. Head masters receive an average of $1554 head mistresses $960, assistant master $560, assistant mistress $430. The city contains about 50,000 Jews who have many synagogues, 19 charitable home and relief societies, 1 2 educational institutes, one of them an elementary school with attendance of 2000, said to be the largest in Britain. The metropolitan police of all ranks number about 14,000, their jurisdiction extending to all places within a radius of 1 2 miles from St. t*aiJls. The city has some 300 periodicals ■ -I __ "^^ i ioj'London i^.y.H «49 ali told, I'lcel-strect being the great home of preservative art. London has over loo hospitals, 800 charitable institutions and benefit aids— even the shoe-blacks have 9 societies. ;i-.in London are two companies (Cook ^d Gaze) who make a business of conducting tourists to all parts of the world. Over 50 years ago Cook started the enterprise and from small begin- nings it has become one of the most widely-known schemes in existence — indeed the name of Mr. Thomas Cook is familil. to thousands who never heard of the Queen or of Gladstone. The Cooks have agencies throughout the civilized world and even ia places where civilization is doubtful ; their coupons are accept- ed from Cairo to Moscow and from Paris to Brazil. A person wishing to visit Rome, Jerusalem, Damascus, Peru, Calcutta (in short any |)art accessible to the foot of guide or hoof of donkey) has only to pay according to fixed schedule and off he goes. In cities he lives in hotels, in the desert he abides in tents ; even in the wild passes of Sinai and Tadmor an armed guard surrounds his dwelling and he sleeps in peace. The Coolcs had princes and kings among their patrons and in the late Egyptian war it was their steamers that carried British troops up the Nile. From travelling in their company to a small extent I am pre- pared to say that everything is done according to contract. . " Now a few words respecting the people. An impression prevails abroad that English people are unsociable and distant. This is by no means correct. In great and populous centers ex- perience teaches the unsafely of confiding in strangers without some guarantee of their worth ; let such guarantee be forth- coming and English people will be found kind and obliging as others. On my first trip across I formed a steamboat acquaint- ance with an excellent Glasgow man, who gave me a note to a firm of commission merchants in Manchester, which in time I presented. I never received greater kindness from old friends — It was really excessive. In travelling on the continent I often fell in with English families and jxirties going the same route. At first they were invariably distant^ but in time the coolness wore away and they became most agreeable people: I shall always entertain good feelings towards a London famtly with whom I spent a day on the site of Waterloo battle. Friends in this province furnished an introductory note to a young man in London, employed by Lombard-street bankers; the impression left is that in all my life I never met a more agreeable person. These are only a few of the many instances that make me think well of English people. Indeed one has 37 ^ < 250 RAMBLES IN EUROPE small idea there are so many estimable people alive till he moves out among them ; but to the reader about going abroad let me gently whisper — 'You're a happy man unless you meet rascals.' Londoners speak ^nglish after a peculiar fashion which they can afford to do seeing they are numerous enough for a na- tion. A noted peculiarity is their shortening words into the smallest possible compass. Pontefract has long ago become Pomfret, Worcester has shrunk into wester, supplying analogy by which Kochester may decline into rooster. I know well how most who read this will pronounce the word Holburn ; Lon- doners call it ' obn,' and I heard an omnibus driver in a pitch of excitement give the word Piccadilly in two syllables by combin- ing the first, second, sixth, eighth and tenth letters. Scores of like instances might be added. Londoners give to several vowels a sound only sanctioned by their custom — for instance Icng o becomes ow, so that row a rank and row a street brawl are alike in sound as in spelling. Road they pronounce ' rowd,' paper is thinned out into.' pieper ' and waves become ' wives.' I once heard a Londoner in a public address use the words ' angry wives,' which I of course took to mean wrathful spouses, and pictured to myself a dozen viragos with disordered hair, swinging broom-sticks. Some are of opinion that Londoners are bound by a code of society and dictates of conscience not to sound ihe letter h unless it be absent, then to apply it with double effect. The idea is entirely out of plum and defective. I noticed only one example of such perversion and this is how it i. happened. Coming from Paris to Dieppe by rail, when passing a bridge to right, a Londoner who sat alongside exclaimed excitedly — 'See that hen on the bridge.' I looked with mighty effort, 'pondering what a sensible biddy could be doing that hour in such a place. Noticing that I failed to. catch the object, he repeated — ' Don't you see that great hen on the bridge ; that's to show it was built by Napo- lion.' ' Oh yes, yes (I said reproachfully), how stupid not to have seen it sooner.' Now that remark of mine was a small pink fib, for when he first spoke I was staring at a cap. N about two feet in length, cut deeply into the structure, /r «(#,* lyj.ki Perhaps no city on earth offers so great disparity of price for board as London. In the west end one may call his own for 24 hours a sitting and bed room at two or three guineas, or he can find accommodation near the docks for 8 cents per night, not so bad as one could expect. In regard to food, one may dine for three cents or three dollars as may charce to suit his condition. noi with ctive. i how when gside 2.' I )iddy at I that fapo- ot to small bout :e for lor 24 le can lot so le for lition. LONDON .«' * ,1 251 A king or emperor can be accommodated in style befitting his station as readily as one whose outlay for bed and board is only sixpence per diem. On the continent arrangements of meals differ widely from those in this country. Early in the morning one gets a cup of coffee or tea with bread, butter and honey, brought io the bedroom if desired — the refection being always known as * coffee.' Breakfast follows by 8 or 9, called * break- fast with a fork ' if meat be set down. Noon brings luncheon, somewhat like dinner in style, tho less elaborate; the weighty and overwhelming dinner usually comes about 7, consisting of 9 to 12 courses, some of them a mere apology to increase the count, Wine is always set down without additional charge, a poor, cheap trash which few would aare to have inside of their persons. Gooa vine may be ordered, but is charged extra. Often a pian orders two or three kinds and blends them to suit; others fancy alternate drinks. Soap is not supplied in hotels, much less combs and brushes; candles are charged extra, but the ' sticks ' are graciously offered. In Germany and Hol- land a feather bed about 5 feet square is laid over the quilt, a most, ridiculous arrangement, for it never 'stays put,' besides being inconveniently heavy. By some occult scheme the Dutch make tables, bureaus, bedsteads and all woodwork in their houses shine like metal, * * • . . , , On July 9th 1 Wits one of many thousands watching a review at Aldershot, a noted camping ground 40 miles to west of the citv. Early as 4 a.m. troops, Aolunteers and militia began to assemble and spectators followed close in their wake. Official count placed all arms at 60,000, slightly, I believe, in excess of actual figures. Regular troops were under command of Sir A. Alison, volunteers and yeomanry under Sir Evelyn Wood, Duke of Cambridge (the Queen's cousin, a distinguished carpet and l>ed-room hero) having charge of the whole. Shortly before noon the thunder of cannon announced her Majesty's arrival, and the royal standard was before lonj dashing and plunging in the breeze. Tremendous cheering followed, giving way when massed bands struck u]) the national anthem. The Duke was attended by a staff of distinguished- officers, and besides an escort from the 20th Hussars, i6 Indian troopers formed a body- guard for the Queen. An address and reply were tollowed by three mighty cheers that went rolling and surging a'.ong the troops and crowded valley like a western gale. The inarch- past now began, and continued for three hours. First the regu- ■m V/-^ :W.. 252 RAMBLES IN EUROPE M:.. lar troops in companies of 100 in two ranks; when a regiment had passed in this order, another followed at 100 steps. Cheers went up as each company passed the grand-stand in lines appar- ently invincible as walls of rock. The Coldstream-guards and royal Irish received a grand ovation, also the Cameron High- landers as they swung past, kilted and plaided with pipers ahead. Some regiments bore aloft remnants of battle flags from China, Russia and Egypt, -calling forth maddening cheers. Next came the militia in the same order, making fine appearance except that want of drill was evident in their wavering lines. As the last company disappeared six batteries of artillery trotted by, with their gear and their cannon; then three regiments of house- hold troops, fine stalwart fellows in glittering form and on mag- nificent horses. Later, cavalry re-Cwmed facing the grand-stand about half mile off — ^3200 sabres flashing aloft advanced slowly at first, quickening to the violence ot a charge and suddenly halting about 50 yards from the royal group. This brilliant manoeuvre brought the review to a close amid a parting salvo of cheers. From an adjoining hill I watched the vast multitude melting away in all directions, troops and volunteers winding along the valley, each company headed by its band. To me the sight was peculiarly attractive. On September 28 I left Euston station for Liverpool by the ' London and North-western,' a line that shows little except fields, pasture and meadow; fields clean and tidy as a lawn, hay built in square blocks and like the handsome grain stacks, taste- fully thatched. Many were plowing, nearly all the teams con- sisting of three horses, occasionally stepping in Indian file. Large fields of turnips, potato-digging in progress, some grain in stook and fields uncut — from appearance the scythe consider- ably in use. Several towns passed, Rugby among the number. Liverpool reached about 3 p. m. — appearance of much poverty and crowds standing round taverns along Water-street where they could breathe an occasional whiff from the treasures inside. Whatever be ' the true inwardness,' much poverty and more than average share of fiith seem to be the natural lo*^ cf seaports. But I am not going to moralise, and after some reference to its world- famed docks I shall hasten to finish — merely referring to the ♦Alabama,' launched from Birkenhead across the Mersey exactly 30 years before the time of writing. Early in 1862 arrangements were made by the confederate government with Messrs. John Laird & Sons for construction of ■ .5 RAMBLES IN EUROPE 853 a wooden cruiser to prey on American commerce. The object of the vessel was long concealed, but truth finally coming out, the U. S. minister at London requested the suspicious craft to be detained. After due expenditure of led tape and red seal, a fiat went forth to detain * No. 290 ' but the bird had flown — an instance of stable-locking after the theft. It is even broadly hinted that delay was manufactured to suit conditions — but who can tell ? The ' Alabama ' was a wooden cruiser over 1000 tons, barque-rigged, 700 horse-power, built for $250,- 000, but it cost the British public a good deal over 60 times these figures. At Azores she received guns and requisites from a London vessel and in August Semmes raised the confederate flag and began to destroy his own country's commerce. In less than two years the ship had burnt, sunk and destroyed 65 ves- sels and property estimated at $4,000,000. Swift cruisers fur- rowed the deep in search of the pirate with no success till in June, 1864, she entered Cherbourg harbor in north of France, 80 miles from the English coast. A few days later the U. S. war steamer ' Kearsage ' also entered and Semmes at once issued a challenge. On June y 9th both vessels moved outside and began hitting each other in the face. The engagement (witnessed by thousands) was a spirited affair while it lasted; but in less than one hour the notorious * Alabama ' was resting quietly on the bottom, Semmes and some of his crew having been picked up by the English yacht ' Deerhound.' The Am- erican government promptly notified England that it would be called on to pay damage occasioned by infringement of inter- national law in respect to confederate cruisers. liritish lawyers having concurred, the foreign secretary and U. S. minister at London agreed on settlement by arbitration, a treaty afterwards ratified by senate. Still the Yankees were in no hurry and president Gra- ' instructed his minister at London to drop all further negotiations at [resent. They no doubt wished to let the matter stand till sue time as John Bull had some trouble at home, tl n press him tightly to settle. But stupidly as John had acted in ecognizing the South and in letting the • Alabama' cruiser go, he lidn't like the idea of a hickory rod in pickle; so after a whii proposals were renewed, coupled with expres- sions of regret at offence had happened. These were accept- ed; an arbitration at Geneva after 9 months of figuring and fencing, finished work Sept. 15, 1872, awarding to Uncle Sam $15,000,000 of British money. After every mouth had been filled and every authentic claim fully satisfied, there yet remain- « 38 •.■^^^'A'' * I- \^'-' hIi 1 ! 1 i I ■, 254 RAMBLES IN EUROPE ed one-third of the millions; this to their credit, not a few wished to give back, but congress failed to reach equal goodness. It seems a destiny of Britain to burn its fingers in war wherever conducted; for with a thousand years experience at sea how else could it blunder in a matter of international law to the extent of some two dozen tons in coined sovereigns. The 'Alabama' claim was probably the largest business ever settled by pens instead of bigger weapons and may result in good by forming a precursor in the more excellent way. To its wonderful system of docks Liverpool no doubt owes its name and position among commercial centers. At present they number 34, covering more than 1000 acres and extending about 9 miles if connected. Birkenhead has 8 docks, covering more than 500 acres, making a total of 1530 acres for both places. The added length ot wharfage is given at 20 miles, and the whole cost at $130,000,000. The first dock (3 acres in extent) was opened in 1715, the next followed in 1753. At beginning of 1800 there were five floating docks covering 26 acres, besides dry docks and basins. Prince's graving dock, completed in 1821, cost $2,800,000, and Albert dock, opened in 1845, ^^^^ $3,900,000. Canada dock covers 18 acres with ^ mile quayage; Langton dock covers 21 acres with quay space of over one mile. Connected with it is a monster crane capable of lifting 100 tons, intended for raising boilers and heavy machinery. Alexandra dock with its branches covers 44)^ acres, has 2j4 miles of berthing space, holds 22 ships in position where they can be loaded or discharged and is the biggest of its kind. Its massive iron and timber bridges are worked by hydraulic power, and the machinery for emptying graving docks is moved by enormous engines. Waterloo dock is used for corn trade and has immense warehouses holding 1,500,000 bushels. The docks vary but little in depth, gener- ally from 28 to 32 feet; the workmanship is simply perfect, the sides and bottom even as plastered walls. The stone are laid in position by donkey-engines running on girders above, and from 4 to 5 years are required to finish one of these enormous constructions. Now, since we have returned to our place of starting, I will say to the reader — * Goodbv ' ! %■ INDEX • England, - - . From Page I to 24 Wales and Ireland, - 24 to 34 Scotland, .... 34 to 75 75 to 95 Belgium and Holland, Prussia, - - . . 95 to 127 127 to 147 .•WU«|rland, .... /■%««.,. *%---- •47 to 166 And Switzerland, - - 166 to 179 ♦ • - - ■ I79 to 204 tt, .... 205 to 251' ERRORS P; of 2, Pf Pv 4Kj Pf P.- P! Ps not r :t'.j |ii line from top, should read « 220,000 inhabitants ' instead 14th line from bottom, read < clean ' not clear. 9th line from bottom, should read * 4)4 and 5^ " instead of j, 3rd line from top, should be • himsel ' not himself. 9, I2ih line from top, insert • feet ' after 300. 6, 22nd line from top, read ' 15th June ' instead of 5th. 03, 14th line from bottom, should read ' carvings and frescoes ' ngs of frescoes. 37, after last word in last line, insert 'nearly.' i :/' 1%, % 73 and !•", 14th line from bottom and 2nd line from top, oergfene rtad • au „ rge.' Page 207, isth line from bottom, tilte should be 'title.' i^age 300. «nd line from bottom, for gale read ' gate ' L.i;*-4»^' ■j.r^^M^iiS*^''^