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Maps, platas, charts, ate, may ba fiimad at diffarant reduction ratios. Thosa too larga to ba entirely includ«d in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre fiimis A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seui ciichA, il est fllmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant la nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 6 6 v> Millilllliilllllllllililiiillillliliililllllilllllilllhlilill^ Py./' Captain cook R( ys cook's ©opagts ROUND THE WORLD, FOR MAKING DISCOVERIES TOWARD* THE NORTH AND SOUTH POLES. WITH AN APPENDIX. .^^ ♦»* ■ 1 • - ''^ ip»iml)c0tcc: I'RINTEO BY SOWLEU A^\> RUSSEIJ.. ■ 1 i ' ^ ^ f. > ■n' V. .«&• ^;7 W»*' w.jiM r> - :>- . 'V O •' i " " '«jr v';^> \ , f ."t^ iSk: V' .\« f>.. -.-•i?r "" .i . to If of The M Ti Q f the :d — Is there Joined by the /IdveU'- ture — Tranfafllons in this p!-'icc — Cjptdin Furncau.xs narracive — The flips /poceed to the ifl.ind of Otahcitc^ and their arrivd there — Are in a critical ftuation, . > • '« 18^ V CHAP. III. ' • ' -^ ^^v-> State of the ifland — Cujlom^ of the native! — Pajfage from Vlitea to the Friendly Ifles — Hervey^s Ifland dif covered — Incidents at Aliddh burgh — The two /hips arrive at Amferelam — Incidents that ha/ipened during their fay at that if and, 2 1 1 CHAP. IV. The Refolution and Adventure continue their voyage from Amflcr-^ dam — proceed for Queen Charlotte'' s Sound — An interview tvlt/i the inhabitants — The final fepnrotlon of the tivofii/is — Tranfa<- tions and incideyits in Qiiccn Charlotte'' s Sound — The inhahitan'ti difcovered to be cannibals-^The Refolution departs from the Sound, and proceeds in fcarch afer her con fort — Courfc of the Refolution in fearch of the fufpofcd continent ;■ and the method: fiurfucd to exfdore the Southern Pacific Ocean — Arrives at Eafler IfJandi and tranfaHlons thcre^ 6fc. - ' '~'"^*' Hzz CHAP. V. T7/e Refolution fails from Eafcr I/Iand to the Marquefas — Defiarts from the Marquefas^ with an account of the inhabitants^ Is^c. — The Refolution leaves Otaheh -—Her arrival at the if land HuO' heme — Various incidents related — The f lift proceeds to UUetea — llicidoUs during her fay ^ and the charaiier of Oedidee, XlS '>»■ VI. CONTli VTS. CHAP. vr. Dcftnrittrr ofthc T\t fohit'ion from I I'lUa — Inc'ilcnh at Si}vn^c Ifland — P'tffi'^i-' fx^tn Sii\'(7y Ijhoid to Rotti'tcLim—'DonJiiNiotis at th'ii place ^ imi ihc info! cmc of the natives — An nccttum of the people in Turtle Iflmd — 'DcmfaK'^lious-.vhile here, and ferocious hchaviour of the iiihahi tents — I'w hicfolution continues her cow fe ftorn Pott Snf!,/zL'ie/i — ^trersiu a duidion fir Sundivuh Ijlond^ in oder to d'ifcovcr the Southern extremity r>f the Archifielago — Ihliile be- haviour of the ualii-cs of Sitndicii:h Iflc — More HCVJ if lands dif- covered. 245 CHAP. Vll. f^ezv Cn'edonin di [covered — Th.c Rcfolution is obliged to de/iart fiom Caledonia — Continues hir vowigr to New Zecdand — She urrrivcs at Queen Charlotte's Sound — An ticcount of incidents while the fhiji ley there, 260 , CHAP. VITT. The dcfiartmr of the ReJoluUonfrom Neio Zealand — Her paffip;e fon\ thence to Terra del Fiwro — The run from Ca/ie Defeadu to Chrifimas Sound -The Rcfolulion defior:s from Chn/hnas Sound ' — Doubles Calic Horn — Her /injjasrc through Strait Lc Afaire^ ami round Statcn J (loud — Defarfi from Statcn Ifland — The ifland of Georgia dijcovcrcd, and a dejeriptive account of the fume. 26CJ CHAP. IX. The Refoluti:" continues her cowfe — Nrivland and Saunders Iflea difiovered — Conjcilures, a>ul fomc reajons that there may be land about the fouth pole — The Refolution alters her courfc to the eajJ — Proceedings till her arrival at the Cape of Good Ilofe — Sails for the Iflc Fa\al, and returns to England — Cahtain Furneaux^s narrative, from the time the Adventure was /eparat:d from the Refolution, to her arrival in England^ including the report of Lieutemvit Burncy, concerning the untimely death of the boat's crezv^ who were murdered by fame of the natives of Queen Char- lotte* $ Sound, 281 Re. ^i THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. I. Captain CooVs departure from England — fun^ion with the'Dif covery at the Cafe cfGood Flope — Pcijjagc to Prince Edward's Jfla'id — Arriz'al at Fan Die men's Land — Interview with tht natives — Arrival at Queen Chai lolte's Sound — Particulars ofth§ horrid maffacre of the Adventurers boat's crew — Dcjiarturefrom Queen Charlotte's Sound. 32^ / CONTENTS. •* VII. CMAP. II. V IJland US ot th'ii 'e people ckaviour cm Poit ocler to \nds dlf- 245 art fiom cirtrhu s ihilc the 260 • pajfi?;e rjcctiui to 5 Sound nd—The t cf the RcfnfJirr.cnts ohuilnfd at H'cmna-ettc—Sh^friiJarhy hi the tuiilvrs rf ILivey's Ijhvtd — hVich fuh'nnrhtc (irctto ct Pnlrr.tijlon's l/l.r.d — Atihtd ot the Frifudiv Iddfirfs — .Im'uddc chunu'Ji-y cf the Nntivrs — Dclcript'i.ti r,f' thc'tf /u'f.m — 'franfu'-Iio^is it.-it/i the J^.it'irci—Cafiiiiin (dirke''i tx/.rdiint to pn\':>n tl e'.r Drpyedjliom — 0/)//.v;;,v. of the hhnilns of a ra/ct.tf — Jiijjncnt citcruiiifnitits cxhdntcd hv thcEirr!i/h otid Sathi'i — ('ioi'ju mode cfjhuvhig — /'//•'/ cf PonUdio, k'ltijof the lYnndly iiuv.'ds — Pcidahc^s itumi' mite rieiiov—Of'eiri^ /' t':,lr Dilty to d.pfecate iJiuth — ■ ])::>}crrnmg a Riijfan letter biouvht en heard h\ one of the natives — Pifiio (fque a/i/wnrance of a volcano — Second vi/it from a native — Provido-.tial tf^ape — Arrival at th' hland of Oonahifka, and intercourjeiieith the natives. 41 Z CHAP VII. ^1 Pdnrnto the Sciithivnrd — Burn.y^s Island — Pafs the p.aftcrn Caft if /IjLt — Defripihn andfitnuuon of it — J) rival at K or ten Sound — Intfiview zvith the natives — Vf-ription cf the Kt'/Jlan fettle- rnent at Oonalajhka — Ado-X'ec and Onhyhee, two of the Sandwich JdandSf dijcovned — Phc natives refujc to drink fugai -cane heer. 426 .111. C O \ r R M I' 1 , CHAP. VIII. V:f:iiptlvi /:/ K:.t alalia Hay — Cnnr.onir^ at the !unMiJ7 ofCafi^ lain C'jok — /hr'iral if I'trcrjb^Oy krir of the inland — hf-t fiom the khtr, find rrtunwd t'v Cr.f)fn!U C'sA — Lnrjlm's map;niflent fufi-nt — The/Jiifis leave the Uland — The Rrfolut'ion damaged in a guUy and cbiigcd to ntuni - Death of(,'(i/>tii:n C:ok, 44 1 CfIAl\ IX. JJiiUh cf Ca/itain Cork, rcith an Oicci/nl of the tra'ifafllons at the Island of Owhx'icc, ful'frqw'tit tj the drolh «/* Captain C-:ok — Capt.i'n C'erki^ dt liar ture from Owhyhic — j^nizud at Aio'/i — Ftna' dfiaiture fiom the Sr^ndivich Js/unds — JJiJctiptlon ef the fiatives, mid treatment of their women. 454 CHAP. X. Heturn to Kairptfratl'a — Death of Ca/itain CUihc — An aecount of f:it'ion of the 454 account of I/. Paul — \a Pax— ^■rsod Hopr 5'S i-im. Co! my at incicitntal 5^9 }wii^ CAPTAIN COOK'S t;i f tifl ■ Voyages round the World. .^ CHAP. I. ' ^ j»j.v. An Account of Captain Cook.. The departure of the Endeavour from Plymoitth.-Her pcjage to the ifland vf Madeira.. A defcription of its natural curiofities and trade A particular account of Funchiale^ the capital of Madeira The pq/fage from Madeira to Jh'o de Janeiro An account of this capital^ of the Portuguefe dominions in South America, and of the circumjacent country . .Incidents that happened lohile the Endeavour lay in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro* A.,. WHEN merit burfts through the clouds o^ original indigence, when genius and abi- lities gain the palm of reward, the biographer be- comes animated with his fubjc£l, and feels the •'• Ibcial fympathies expand within his breaft. Diltinguiflied as this colintry is for its able na-. vigators, it acquires no inconfiderable acceflion orj " fame from boalting the name of Cook, whofe three'"" principal voyages we are now about to detail in hl^^ unbroken feries. This able and amiable man was born at Marton, in Cleveland, a village about four miles from Great Ayton, in Yorkfhire, on the 27th of O6lober, 1728. His father, who lived in the humble ftation of a farmer's fervant, married a woman in the fame 1. 'A ^ (phere »>• CAPTAIJf COOK S fphere of life with hinifelf ; and both wore noted in their neighbourhood for their honelly, fobriety, and induftry, quaUtics which reflect a luftre on the loweii: ranks. When our navigator was about two years old, hli father and family removed to Great Ay ton, and was appointed to fuperintend a confiderabie f[irm belonging to the Jate Thomas Scottowe, Efq.. known, by the name of Airyhohn. As the father long continued in this truft, the fon, of courfe, followed the fame fervile employ- ment, as far as his tender years would admit. His early education appears to have been very flender ; but at the age of thirteen we find him put under the tuition of Mr. Fullen, who taught fchool at Ay ton,, where he learned the rudiments of arithmetic and book-keeping, and is faid to have fliewn a remarkable facility in acquiring the fcience of numbers. About the beginning of 1745, when young, Cook was feventeen years old, his father bound him ap- prentice to William Sanderfon, for four years, to learn the grocery and haberdallicry bufinefs, at Snaith, a populous fiihing town about ten miles from Whitby. But as he evinced a ftrong partiality for a piaritime life, for which his predilection was pro- bably ftrengthened by the fituation of the place, and the company with which, it is probable, he aflbciated, after a year and a half's fervitude, on fome trivial difagreement with his matter, he obtained a releafe from his engagements, and determined to follow the bent o^ his inclination. While he continued at Snaith, according to Mr. Sanderfon's account,, he difcovered a maturity of judgment, and a quicknefs in calculations be- yond his years. In July 1746, he was bound apprentice to Meflrs. Walker, of Whitby, for the term of three years, which he ferved to the full fatisfa6lion of his matters. His firft voyage was on board the lliip Freelove, burden of about four hundred and fifty tons, chiefly employed •*.'•■ ■i\ ■i:. Loi s^^. 2 noted in •liety, and : on the ^ears old, f'ton, and ble fiirm q.. known. truft, the employ- nit. His ilender ;. mder the t A) ton, etic and narkable ngCook him ap~ f^ears, to lefs, at ies from ity for a as pro- ce, and Dciated, e trivial rcleafe o\v the ing to aturity ns bc- VleflVs. years, afters, elove, :hiefly )loyed FIRST VOYAGE, '3 employed in the coal trade from NeWcaftle to London. In May 1748, his mafter ordered him home to aflift in rigging and fitting for fea, a fine new fliip, named the Three Brothers, of fix hundred tons. This was dcfigncd to improve him in his profellion, and to qualify him for a better birth, when his fervitude fliould expire. After two coal voyages in this vn(fG], Hie was taken into the. fervice of govern- ment, and fent as a tranfport to Middleburgh, to convey fome troops to Dublin. Thefe being landed at their deftination, another corps was taken on board, and brought to Liverpool. From thence the ihip proceeded for Deptford, where (he was paid off ill April, 1749. The remaining part of the feafon Cook ferved on board her in the Norway trade. Being honourably re leafed from his engagements, he next entered on board a fiiip employed in the Baltic trade, and performed feveral voyages, of no great importance, during the two following years. In 1752, his old mafter promoted him to be mate of one of his lliips, called the Friendfliip, in which capacity he a£ted for fome time, with lb much credit to himfelf and fatisfaftion to the owntTs, that it is faid, he was offered the place of captain. This, however, he declined, and fortunate was it for his country he did fo. " * : '. ; - -i In the fpring of 1755, hoftilities commenced between Great-Britain and France. As prefs-war*, rants had been iflued, Mr. Cook, who then lay in thef river Tliames, afraid of being prefled, refolved, if poffible, to conceal himfelf; but afterwards refle6ling on the derficulty of this, he adopted the refolution of entering a? a volunteer in the royal navy, " having a mind," as he expreffed himfelf, " to try his fortune in that way." In purfuance of this defign, he repaired to a houfe of rendezvous at Wapping, and entered on board the Eagle, a fixty gun fliip, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer. To this (hip, Captain, afterwards IJsJ^r; . , A 2 Sir >^: 4 " CAPTAIN COOK S Sir Hugh Pallifer, being appointed in O^ober fol- Jowing, Cook's diligence and attention to the duties of his profeilion did noi efcare the notice of that in- telligent commander, and he met with every encou- rageaient compatible with his humble ftation. ' ' • 'J' Cook's merit having been bkzoned among his connections and friends in his native country, fome of them generoufly interefted themfelves in his behalf, and procured a letter of recommendation to his cap- tain from Mr. Ofbaldefton, member of parliament for Scarborough, in which it was requefted he would point out in what manner they could contribute to his promotion. Captain Pallifer did full juftice to Cook's chiira6ier, and fuggefted, that a mafter's warrant might, per- haps, be procured for him, by which he would be put in a fituation fuited to his talents, and be enabled to rfrfle£i credit on thofe who honoured him with their patronage. ■-/• ji^-i V'tii j).'!j.)"' - ,--:2n ;)rfi"„. •. !; In confequence of this, intereft was made for a mafter's warrant, which he obtained to the Grampus floop, in May 1759 ; but this appointment did not take place, as the former mafterunexpe6tedly return- ed. In a few days, however, he was made mafterof the Garland ; but here too he was difappointed, for, on enquiry, it was found that the fliip had already failed. At laft, he was appointed to the Mercury, which was deftined for North America, under the command of Sir Charles Saunders, who, in conjunc- tion with General Wolfe, was then engaged in the memorable f^f^^e of Quebec. w During that fignal tranfa^lion, it was found ne- ceflary to obtain the foundings of the river St. Law- rence, directly oppofite to the French camp at Mont- morency and Beauport. As this was univerfally ef- teemed to be a dangerous and difficult fervice, and as Cook's fagacity and intrepidity were now well known. Captain Pallifer recommended him for the under- taking ; and in the choice that was made the fervice was not injured. Cook executed his office in the A .. . completeft pen witl ^ober fol- ' the duties of that in- ery encou- on. amoii ferved, that it has fuperfeded all other furveys. 3 ]'b'\ /After the conqueft of Canada, fo glorious to every perfon who had a Ihare in it, Mr. Cook was appointed mafter of the Northumberland, under Lord ColvilJ, on the 2d of September, 1759. In this fliip his lordlhip continued the tbllovying winter as commodore, at Halifax ; and Cook's condu6l, in his I' new / l> CAPTAIN COOK*S new ftation, did not fail, as on former occafions, to gain him the friendflaip and efleem of his oon>-| mander. Senfible that h^ was now in the road to pro- motion, lie flievved a laudable defire to qualify himfelfl to adorn his profcllion, by devoting his ieifure hours' to the ftudy of fuch br:*:iches of knowledge as refleft a luftre on naval life. At Hallifax he firft read Euclid's Elements, and ftudied aftronomy. The books he was able to procure, were few indeed ; but application arid perfeverance fupplied many deficien- cies, an^'/enabled him to make a progrefs, which a man of lefs genius could not attain under much fuperior advantages. ... • -^ . . iv . ; ^. He received a lieutenant!s commiffion on the 1ft of April, 17G0, and.daily advanced in the career of glory. In September, 1762, he affifted at the recapture of Newfoundland, after which the Engiifli fleet remained fome tijne at Placentia, in order to put that. place jato a better ftate of defence. During this period? Mr. Cook had an other opportunity of dif- playing his. diligence, and manifefting his zeal in the leryice of his country: he furveyed the harbour and heights of that placje, and, by this means, attra£led the notice of Captain, afterwards Admiral Graves, who was. at that time governor of Newfoundland. Captain Graves having entered into converfation with him, found him poffefTed of fuch intelligence and judgment, tliat he conceived a very favotirable opinion of his abilities in general, and his nautical ikill in particular ; and in cultivating a longer acquaintance with him, was ftill more and more prepofrefTed in his favour. .:,.-..., vi-i .i -^ ,y^ii ..i^. Endowed with a vigorous and a£tive mind,- and ftimujated^ perhaps, by the fucceis that had attended his paft labours, and the hopes of future promotion. Cook- continued to difplay the moft unremitting affidijity to make himfelf acquainted with the North An^erican .coaft, and to facilitate its navigation ; wbilf the efteem which Captain Graves had juftly conceived FIRST VOYAGE. 7 :onceIvcd for him, was heightened by the concurrent teftimonies of approbation, which all the officers, mder whom he had fervcd, fo freely paid him. Towards the clofe of 1762, Lieutenant Cook returned to England, and on the 2 111 of I>ecember le married at Barking, in fiffex, a young lady of the lame of Batts, whom he tenderly loved, and who lad every claim to bis warmeft aft'ettion and efteem. It is faid, that Cook had been godfather to this lady, ind that he declared at that time his wilh for their t'uture union. If this anecdote is true, it is a lingular inflaiTce of the firmnefs of his chara^er, and the Strength ot his attacliment. His iituation in life, lowever, and the high and important fervices to ^hich he was called, did not fuffer him to enjoy» 'ithout interruption, that matrimonial felicity which )oth parties feem to have been fo well qualified to tafte. On the conclulion of the war in 1163, Captaia rraves was again fent out as governor of New- foundland ; and as that ifland was confidered of great :ommercial importance, and had been, a principal ^)bjett of contention between Great-Britain and 'ranee, the governor obtained, at his preffing ibJici- tation, an ellablifliment for the furvey ©f its coafts ; md Lieutenant Cook was appointed to carry this >]an into execution. He, therefore, went out with lis friend the governor; and having furveyed the fraall iflands of St^ Pierre and Miquelon, which, by [reaty, had been ceded to France ; after the bufinefe 'as finiihed he returned to England, at the clofe of fch^ -cafon* • r- ' » In the beginning of the following vear, he ac- :ompanicd his former patron, Sir Hugh i^allifer, who lad been appointed governor of Labradore and New^ ^oundland, and profecuted his furveys of the coafts IS before. For his employment. Cook was, by the unanimous boice of the beft judges, deemed extremely well qua- lified ; and the charts which he afterwards publifhed. V - . k V ?^*r'- \ $ CAPTAIN C00K*9 rcflc£V the liighcft credit on his abilities, lie alfo ex- plored the interior of Newfoundland, in a much more accurate manner than had ever been done before ; and by penetrating into the heart of tlic country, dif- covered feveral large lakes, the j)orition of which he exaftly afcertained. In this fervice he appears to have been occafionally engaged till 1767. However, we find him with Sir William Burnaby, on the Ja- maica ftation in 1765 ; and that officer having occa- fion to fend difpatches to the governor of Jucatan, re-^ lative to the log cutters in the Bay of Honduras, Lieutenant Cook was felefted for that miffion, and he performed it in a manner that entitled him to the ap- probation of the ad' liral. A relation of this voyage and journey was publiflicd in 1769, under the title of " Remarks on a Pafl'age from the River Balife, in the Bay of Honduras, to Merida, the capital of the Pro- vince of Jucatan, in the Spanifli Weft Indies, by Lieutenant Cook." That our navigator had, by this time , made a con- fiderable proficiency in practical aftronomy, is evident from a fliort paper, drawn up by him, which was inferted in the feventh volume of the Philofophical Tranfaftions, entitled, " An Obfervation of an Eclipfe of the Sun at the Ifland of Newfoundland, Augufl 5, 1766, with the Longitude of the Place of Obfervation deduced from it." This obfervation was made at one of the Burgeo iflands, near Cape Ray, in latitude 47 deg. 36 min. 19 fee. on the fouthweft extremity of Newfoundland ; and Cook's paper having been com- municated to Mr. Witchell, he compared it with an obfervation made on the fame eclipfe by Profeffor Hornfby, and thence computed the difference of lon- gitude of the places of obfervation, making proper allowance for parallax, and the prolate fphcroidal figure of the earth. That Cook was now accounted an able mathematician, the admiilion of this paper into the Philofophical Tranfa6tions, and the notice that was taken of it, will fufficiently verify. For I . ^ ordei of thi on tl boan peditl Mf tend mem I dillin '>outlJ larly CO mi undei . 1 FIRST VOYAGE. 9 F(3r the prefent reign it was referved to carry the fpirit of cntcrprife to its fulled extent, and to direil: it to the accomplifliment of the noblell purpofes. As foon as the return of peace gave an opportunity for promoting the interefts of fcience, by enlarging the bounds of difcovery, two voyages were projected by his prefent majefty, which were performed by Cap- tains Byron, Wallis, and Carteret ; and before the two latter gentlemen returned, a third was refolved on, the principal objedl of which was the improve- ment of aftronomy. It having been long before calculated, that the planet Venus would pafs over the Sun's dilkin 1769, it was judged that the moil: proper place for obferving this phenomenon, would be either at the Marquefas, or at one of thofe iflands to which Tafman had given the feveral appellations of Amfterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburgh ; but which are now better known under the general ^ame of the Friendly Ifles. This being a matter of much importance in the fcience of aftronomy, the Royal Society, with a laudable zeal for its advancement, prefented a memorial to his ma- jefty, requefting, among other things, that a vefTel might be fitted out at the expence of government, to convey proper perfons to obferve this tranfit at one of the places already mentioned. The petition being readily complied with, and orders having been given by the lords commifiioners of the admiralty to provide a veflel for that purpofe, on the 3d of April, Mr. Stephens, the fecretary to the board, informed the fociety that every thing was e^c- pediting according to their wiflies. --• ■ Mr. Dalrymple was originally fixed on to fuperin- tend this expedition: a man eminent in fcience, a member of the Royal Society, and who had already diftinguiflied himfelf refpefting the geography of the Southern Ocean. As this gentleman had been regu- larly bred to the fea, he infifted on having a brevit commiflion, as captain of the veffel, before he would undertake the employ. Sir Edward Hawke, who 1 ' B then 10 (.'Al'TAlN COOK S ^ \ i « then prefided at the admirahy board, violently oppo- fed this meafure; and being prefled on the lubje£t, declared, that notliing could induce him to give the fan61ion of his name tofuch a conimillion. Both parties were inHexible; and it was, therefore, thought expedient to look out fome other perfon to conduct the expedition. Accordingly, Mr. Stephens having recommended Lieutenant Cook, and this re- commendation being ftrengthened by the teftimony of Sir Hugh Pallifer, who was well acquainted with Cook's merit, and abilities for the difchargc of this office, he V7as appointed to this diftinguiflied poft by the lords commiflioners, and promoted to the rank of lieutenant of the royal navy on the 2.'5th of May 1768. This appointment having taken place, Sir Hugh Pallifer was commiHioned to provide avelTcl adapted for fuch a voyage. After examining a great number of (hips, then lying in the Thames, in conjundlion with Cook, of whofe judgment he entertained the higheft opinion, they at lalt fixed on the Endeavour, a veffel of three hundred and feveoty tons, which had been built for the coal trade. .;* .,.,:>.!..,.,, ,,.{..'., In the interim. Captain Wallis having returned from his voyage round the world, and having fignified to the Royal Society, that Port Royal Harbour in King George's Ifland, now called Otaheite, would be the moft convenient place for obferving the tranfit, his opinion w^as adopted, and the obfervers wero ordered to repair thither. Mr. Charles Green, the coadjutor ofDr. Bradley, the aftronomer royal, was nominated to allilt Captain Cook in conducting the aftronomical part of the un- dertaking; and he was accompanied alfo by Jofeph Banks, Efq. the prefentprefident of the Royal Society, whofe baronetage, to which he has been fmce raifed, reflefts honour on his fovereign and the order. This friend of fcience, at an early period of life, poflefled of an opulent fortune and zealous to apply it to the belt ends, embarked on this tedious and hazardous .r entcrprifc. First vuyagr. 11 cnterprlfe, animated by the wifli alone of improving Iiimfelf, and enlarging the hounds of knowledjje. lie took two draiightfmen with him, and had likewife a fecretary and four fcrvants in his retinue. Dr. Solander, an ingenious and learned Swede, who had been appointed to a place in the Britilh Mufcum, and was an adept in natural philofophy, likewife joined the expedition. Poflefied of the en- thufiafm with which Linniuus inf{)ired his difciples, he braved danger in the profecution of his favourite lludies, and being a man of erudition and capacity, he added no fmall eclat to the voyage in which he embarked. ' . ... Though the principal intention of this expedition was to obferve the tranfit of Venus, it wAs thought proper to make it comprehend other objefts alfo. Captain Cook was, therefore, dire61ed, after he had accompli (hed his main bufinefs, to proceed in making farther difcoveries in the South Seas, which now began to be explored with uncommon refolution. The complement of the Endeavour confided of eighty-four perfons. She was vi6tualled for eighteen months, and ten carriage and twelve fwivel guns, with abundance of ammunition, and all manner of ftores were taken on board. • ' '"•"■/- .'>^- Being completely fitted for fea, Captiin Cook failed from Deptford on the 30th of July 1768, and on the 13th of Auguft anchored in Plymouth Sound, from which, after a few days ftay, they proceeded to fea. The firft land they made, after their leaving the Channel, was on the 2d of September, when Cape Finifterre and Cape Ortugal, in Spain, both came in view. They arrived on the 13th at Madeira, and anchored in Fonchial Road. Here unfortunately they loft Mr. Weir, the mafter's mate, who, in heaving the anchor, fell overboard and was drowned. ■ --This ifland has a beautiful apoearance from the lea, thole parts of hills which prefent thcmfelve^ being covered with vines. ''»^"^' ^- -^^ '»- .,f^vn^ -'pt; -'^ B2 The [ 12 CAPTAIN COOK S The only article of trade is wine, which is made by prclfing the juice out in a fquare wooden vefl'el. The perfons employed, having taken oif their (lock- ings and jackets, get into it, and with their elbows and feet prefs out as much of the juice as they can. In like manner the ftalks, being tied together, are prcffed under a fquare piece of wood by a lever, with a flone faftcned to the end of it. There are no wheel carriages of any fort, nor have the people any thing that refeinblcs them, except a hollow board, or fledge, upon which thofe wine vef- fels are drawn, that are too big to be carried by hand. Nature has been very liberal in her gifts to Ma- deira. The inhabitants are not without ingenuity, but they want induflry. The foil is fo very rich, and there is fuch a variety in the climate, that there is fcarccly any article, either of the necefTaries or luxu- ries of life, which cannot be cultivated in the ifland. Pine apples and mangoes grow almoft fpontaneoufly in the town, and great variety of fruit upon the hills. Corn is alfo very large and plenty. The beef, mutton, ^nd pork, are remarkably good. Foncho, which is fennel in Portuguefe, gave name to the town of Fonchial. It is feated at the bottom of a bay; indifferently built, the flreets narrow, and very wretchedly paved. In the churches there arc great numbers of ornaments, with pictures and images of faints, for the moft part indifTerently executed. A better tafte prevails in fome of the convents, particu- larly that or the Francifcans, where fimplicity and neatnefs unite. The infirmarv does honour to the architeft, and is the moft capital edifice in the whole place. There are many very high hills ; Pico Ruivo is near five thoufand one hundred feet in height, per- pendicularly from its bafe. The inhabitants are com- puted to be between feventy and eighty thoufand ; ..^H^d the revenue arifmg from the cuftoms, is fuppofed to amount to twenty or thirty thoufand pounds flerr }ing per annum, 'On FIRST VOYAGE. 13 On tlic 1 9th of September we fniled from Madeira, niid oil the '2 1 It we faw the illands called the Salvages, northward «)f the Canaries. The principal of thefe was al)oiit five leagues to the foiith half weit. On tlie 'Jlid the Peak, of Ter.erille bore well by fouth half Jouth. 'i'he height of this mountain is l.'),r.79 feet, wliich is about 148 yards lefs than three miles. On the 7th of Ovftober Mr. Banks went out in a boat, and caught what our failors call a Portuguefe man of war ; together with feveral fliell lilhes, which are always found floating upon the water. On the i^jth we croiVed tlie line with the ufual ceremonies 5 and as provifions by this time began to grow lliort, we refolved to put into the harbour of Riode Janeiro ; and on the 8th of November we faw \ tlie coait of Brafil. We ftood off along i]iorc till the 12th, ha\ing in view fucceiFively Cape Thomas, and ' an iOandjult without Cape Frio, and then made fail ; for Rio dc Janeiro on the 13th in the morning. • On the 14th Captain Cook went on fliore, and j obtained leave to furnidi the fliip with provifions ; but ' this permillion was clogged with the conditions of « employing an inhabitant as a fa6tor, and of fending a foldier in the Endeavour's boat every time flie came from fliore to the veffel. To thefe uncivil terms the Captain made many objections ; but the viceroy was determined to infill on them, neither would he per- mit Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to remain on fliore, nor fufler the former to go up the country to colIe6l jdants. Captain Cook conceiving from thefe and other marks of jcaloufy, that the viceroy thought they were come to trade, ufed all his endeavours to con- vince him to the contrary 5 and acquainted him, that they were bound to the South Seas, to obferve the tranfit of Venus over the diflc of the fun, an objeft of great confequence to the improvement of navigation ; but the viceroy by his anfwer feemed ignorant of the phoenomenon. An officer was now appointed to at-^ tend the Captain, which order he was defired to un- derftand as an intended compliment 3 however, when he i[ i . « * '•V l4 CAPTAIN cook's lie would hiivo declined fiich a ceronioiu', llic viceiovr very politely forced it upon liim. ^' ■'' ■ ' "■'' "' ' •" ' Dr. Solaiider and Mr. Jiaiiks were not a little iliaqrined on hearing that tliey would not he permit- ted torefideon iiiore, and ilill more Co when they un- derfiood that they were not even alKnvcd to quit the Ihip; For the viceroy had ordered, that the Captain only, with fuch Tailors as were re(|uircd by their duty, Ihould come on iliorc. However, they attempted to go on ihore, but were flopped by the guard-boat ; yet fevcral of the crew, without the knowledge of the centinel, let themfclvcs down by a rope from the cabin windoNv into the boat about midnight, and drove away with the tide, till t! "v were out of hearing. They afterwards landed on unfrequented part of the country, and were treiied by the inhabitants with irreat civilitv. '».'>•''! ^ns^j'.i. ;;...»•! .. .u/. ... . V Captain Cook, uneafy with the re{lri6lions of the viceroy, remonftrated wnth him ; but the latter would return no other anfwer but that the king his mailer's orders muft be obeyed. The captain thus repulfed, and much difpleafed, refolved to go no more on fhore, rather than, whenever he did fo, to be treated as a prifoncr in his own boat ; for the officer who was fo polite as to accompany him, conflantly atten-ded him, both to and from the Ihore. 'J\vo memorials were no w drawn up and prcfen ted to the viceroy, one written by the Captain, and the other by Mr. Banks: but the anfwers returned were by no means fatisfaftory. Several papers pafTcd between them and the viceroy to no good purpofe; from whence the captain thought it heceffary in order to vindicate his ow^n compliance, to urge the viceroy to an aft of force in the execution of h'is orders. For this purpofe he fent Lieut. Hicks with a packet, giving him his orders not to admit of a fiuard in his boar. As this srentleman was refolved to obey his captain's commands, the officer of the guard Boat did not oppofe him by force, but acquainted the viceroy with wdiat had happened, on which the lieu- tenant w^as fent away with the packet unopened, . When / ■ lluSr VOYAGK. 15 Wlicn returned, lie touiul :\ ♦^nnrd of foldiers j-ylacccl in the boat, and inlilted on ihcir ciuiltin^j ii. \Vlicre- iipon the ollicer feized the boat's crew, and conducted ihcm under an cfcort to prilon, vA]d the lieutenant was lent back to the lliip (guarded. When the cap- tain was informed of this tranlaciion, he wrote to iho viceroy to demand his boat and her crew, inclofnig the memorial which Mr. 1 licks his lieutenant had brought back. Thefe paj)ers he fent by a jjclty olKcer to a\ oid continuing the difpute concerning the guard, which mult have been kept up by a commillioned otiicer. An anfwcr was now promifed by the viceroy; but before this could arrive, the long boat, which had four pipes of rum on board, was driven windward, (the rope breaking that was thrown from the fiii]),) together with a I'mall (kilV that was fidlencd to the boat: Immediate orders were given for manning the yawl, which being difpatched accordingly with pro- per dirc6\ions, returned, and brought the people on board the next morning; from whom C'aptain C'ook Jearned, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a ijrapling, and quiUed her, and falling in with a reef ot rocks on her return, they were forced to cut thcfallcnings ot Mr. iianks's little boat, and fent her adrift. The captain now difpatched another letter to his excellency, wliercin he informed hun of the accident, delircd lie would aflift him with a boat to recover his own, and, at the fame time, re- newed his demand of the delivery of the pinnance and her crew. The viceroy granted the requeft, but in his anfwer to the captain's remonfrrance, fuggcfted fome doubts that he entertained, whether the lindea- vour was really a king's fliip, and alfo accufed the crew of fmuggling. Captain Cook, in his reply, faid, that he was willing to fliew his commillion, adding, if any attempt fhould be made to carry on a contraband trade, he requellcd his excellency would order the offender to be taken into cultody. The dif- pute being thus terminated, Mr. Banks attempted to elude the vigilance of the guard, which he fpund means I il i. ? 1. . ; . : i, ■ i- 1 , \ { 1 \.i 16 CAPTAIN cook's means to do, and got fafe on Ihore on the 26th in the morning. He took care to avoid the town, and pafled the day in the fields, where he could belt gra- tify his curiolity. Mr. Banks found the country peo- ple incUned to treat with him civilly, and was invited to their habitations. But it was afterwards heard, that fearch had been making for this gentleman when abfent. He and Dr. Solander therefore refolved to run no more rifques in going alliore, while they re- mained at this place. On the lil of December, having taken in water and provifions, we got, Vvith leave from the viceroy, a pilot on board ; but the wind prevented us from putting to fea. A Spanifli packet from Buenos Ayres, bound for Spain, arriving the next day, the captain of her with great politenefs offered lo take our letters to Europe. The favour was accepted, and Captain Cook delivered into his hands a packet for the fecre- tary of the Admiralty, containing copies of all the pa- pers that had pafled between him and the viceroy, leaving the duplicates with his excellency. On the 5th we weighed anchor, and towed down the bay, but were flopped at Santa Cruz, the princi- pal fortification, the order from the viceroy, to Ictus pafs, by an unaccountable negligence, not having been fent ; fo that it*\vas not till the 7th that we got under fail. When we had pafled the fort, the guard- boat left us, and our pilot was difcharged. Of the town and neighbouring country we fliall give the fol- lowing defcription : Rio de Janeiro was probably fo called becaufe dif- covered on the feflival of St. Januarius, from whence we may fuppofe the river Januarius took its name, and alfo the town, which is the capital of the Portu- guefe in America. This town is lituated on the weft Sde of the river, from which it is extended about three quarters of a mile. The ground whereon it flands is a level plain. It is defended on the north fide by a hill, that extends from the river, having a fmall plain, which contains the fuburbs and the king's dock. ■*» = u.»j FIRST VOYAGE. I7 dock. The houfes in general are of ftone, and two fto- ries high ; its circuit is about three miles ; and appears to be equal in fizc to the largeft country towns in Eng- land. The ftreets are ftraight and of a convenient breadth ; and the principal Itreet is near 100 feet in width. The churches are richly ornamented, and there is more religious parade in this place than any of the popilh countries in Europe. But the inhabitants may pay their devotion at the Ihrinc of any faint j for a rmail cupboard, having a glafs window, and in which is one of the tutelary gods, is placed almofl before every houfe, and a lamp is kept conftantly burning, left the old pro- verb fliould be verified " Out of fight, out of mind." Before thefe faints the people pray and fing with fuch vehemence, that in the night they were diftindlly heard by our failors on board the fhip. The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro are exceeding nu- merous, and confift of Portuguefe, Negroes, and Indi- ans, which laft were the original natives of the country. The townfliip of Rio is but a fmall part of the Capi- tanea, or province i yet it is faid to contain 37,000 white people, and 629,000 blacks, many of whom are free, making together 966,000, in the proportion f 17 to i. The military is compofed of twelve regiments of regular troops, fix beinp^ Portuguefe, and fix Creoles, and twelve regiments of provincial militia. The inha- bitants are fervilely fubmiflive to the regulars, and it has been faid, that if any of them (liould omit the com- pliment of taking off his hat, when he meets an officer, he would be immediately knocked down. But the fub- ordination of the officers to the viceroy is equally mor- tifying, for they are obliged to wait three times a day to know, or receive his commands : the anlvver fre- quently \s, " There is nothing new." In Rio de Janeiro the gentry keep their chaifes, which are drawn by mules ; the ladies however ufe a fedan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on each fide, whicl is carried by two negroes on a pole connedted with the top of a chair, by two rods, coming from under its bottom, one on each fide, and refting to I C the i3 CAPTAIN COOK S ■ the top. The women in general, are more ready to grant amorous favours than thofe of any other civilized parts of the world. As foon as the evening began, fe- males appeared at the windows on every fide, who dif- tinguilhed fuch of the men as beft pleated their fancies by throwing down nofegays j and Dr. Solander and two other gentlemen received fo many of thefe love-tokens, that they threw them away by hat-fulls. This place is very ufeful for (liips that are in want of refrefliment. The harbour is fale and commodious and diltinguirtied by a remarkable hill, in the fliape of a cone, at the weft point of the bay. The entrance is not wide, but is eafy, from tlie fea breeze which pre- vails from noon to fun-fet, for any ihip to enter before the wind. Provifions, except wheaten bread and flour, are eafily procured. Beef, both frefli and jerked, may be bought at two-pence farthing a pound, but is very lean Mutton is fcarce to be produced. Hogs and poultry are dear. Garden ftuff and fruit are in abun- dance. Rum, lugar, and molafles are all excellent, and to be liad at reaiunable prices. The air is leldom immoderately hot, as the fea breeze is generaliy lucceeded by a land wind. The feafons are divided imodryand rainy, though their commencement of late has been irregular and uncertain ; but at this time the rain had juft began, and fell in heavy fliowers during our ftay. ^ •:■, ' ' ; I I V » 1 il ■ « . 1 ' • fc Vf*' > » ->4 CHAP. *ffiS' >• r FIRST VOYAGE. «9 CHAP. il. The departure of the Endeavour from Ih'o de Janeiro. — Her paffhi^e from the entranee of the jlrei^ht of Le Mai re. — Y^ie inhabitants^ of Terra det Fuego de- fcribed. — Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander afeend a mountain infeareh of ptants. — An aeeount of ivliat happened to tliem in tliis excurfion. — The Endeavour pqffes through the Streiglit te Mai re. — An aeeount of her pajage^ and a further defeription of tlie inhabi- tants of Terra del Fuego. — An account of Cape Horn, and the neivty difcovered ijlands. — An account of their Jigure and appearance. — The inhabitants defcribed ; zvith a narrative of tlw various incidents during the courfe, and on the Endeavouj''s arrival ajnomr them. ON the 8th of December, 1768, having procured neceliary lupphes, we took our departure from Rio de Janeiro ; and on the 9th an amazing number of atoms were taken out of the fca. They are of a yellow ifli colour, and few of them Vv'ere more than the fifth part of an inch lonc^. The fea was tinned in fuch a manner with thefe equivocal fubflances, as to exhibit broad flreaks of a fimilar colour for near a mile in Icnpih, and feveral yards in breadth. On the nth we hooked a (hark. It proved to be a female. When opened we took fix young ones out of it, live of which were alive, and fvvam brifkly in a tub of water. On the 30th we ran fifty leagues through vail numbers of land inlecls ; fome in the air, and others upon the water. At this time we judged ourlelves to be nearly oppofite to the bay called Sands Fond, (with bottom) where it is fuppofed that tlie continent of America is divided by a patlage. On the 3d of January, 1769, we faw the appear- ance of land, in lat. 47 deg. 17 min. fouth, .md long. 61 deg. 29 min. 45 fee. weft, which we miftook tor Pcpy's Illand. In appearance it fo much rcl'embkd * C 2 land. il \ ^1 20 CAPTAIN COOKS land, that we bore away for it 5 and it was'three ho'pYS before we were convinced that it was one of thofe decep- tions which failors call a fog bank. On the nth after having paifed Falkland's liland, we faw the coaft of Terra del Fuego, at the diftance of about four leaigues from the weft to fouth-eaft by fouth. On the 14th we entered the Streight of Le Maire, but were afterwards driven out again with fuch violence; (the tide being againft us) that the (hip's bow-fprit was frequently under water. At length we got anchorjtge in a fmall cove, on the eaft of Cape St. Vincent, the entrance to which our Captain named St. Vincent's Bay. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on (hore, where having continued four hours, they returned about nine in the evening, with above an hundred different plants and flowers, of which none of the European botanifts had taken any notice, near this bay. On the 1 8th we came to an anchor in twelve fathom water, upon coral rocks, at the diftance of about a, mile from the fhore. At this time two of the natives came down upon the beach, as if they expeded that the ftrangers intended to land, but as there was no (belter here, the (hip got under fail again, and the Indians retired difappointed. The fame afternoon we came into the Bay of Good Succefs, and the veffel coming to an anchor, the captain went on (hore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order" to fearch for a watering place, and difcourfe with the Indians. Thefe gentlemen had not proceeded above one hundred yards before the captain, when two of the' Indians that had feated themfelves rofe up, and threw away the fmall fticks they held in their hands, as a token of amity. They afterwards returned to their companions, who had remained at fome diftance behind them, and made figns to their guefts to advance, whom they received in a friendly, though uncouth manner. in return for their civility, fome ribbands and beads were diftributed among them. Thus a fort of mutual confidence was eftablilhed, and the reft of the Englifh joined the party, the Indians converfing with them in their FIRST VOYAGE. 21 their way, in an amicable manner. Capl. Cook and his frienrla took three of them to the (hip, drefled them in jackets, and gave them breaci. and other provifions, part of which they carried on (h.ore with them j bujb ;^ , they refufed to drink rum or brandy, making figns''thai % it burned their throats, as their proper drink was water. • One of thefe people made long and loud fpeeches, but no part of them was intelligible to any of us. Another flolc the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his garment, that was made of fkin. After having remained on board about two hours, they returned oa fbore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to their companions, who feemed no ways curious to know what their friends had feen, and the latter were as little dilpofed to relate, as the former were to enquire. None of thefe people e^tceeded five feet ten inches in height, but their bodies appeared large and robuft, though their limbs were fmall.- They had broad flat faces, high cheeks, nofes inclining to flatnefs, wide no(lri}s, imall black eyes, large mouths, fmall, but indifferent teeth, and ftraight black hair, falling down over their ears and foreheads, the latter being generally befmeared with brown and red paints, and like- all the ori- ginal natives of America, they were beardlefs, their gar- ments were the ikins of feals and guanicocs, which they wrapped round their flioulders. The men likewife wore ' on their heads a bunch of yarn, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind with the finews or tendons of fome animals. Many of both fcxes were painted ' on different parts of their bodies with red, white, and brown colours, and had alfo three or four perpendicular lines pricked acrofs their cheeks and nofes. The women had a fmall firing tied round each ancle, and each wore a flap of Ikin fattened round the middle. They carried their children upon their backs, and were generally em- ployed in domeltic labour and drudgery. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by their fer- vants, fet out from the Ihip on the i6th, withadefign of going into the country as far as they could that day, and return in the evening. Having entered a wood, they •?■ ■ ;i i 12 CAPTAIN COOK S they afcenclcd a bill through a pathlefs wildernefe till ' the afternoon. After they had reached what they took for a plain, they were greatly difappointed to find it a fwamp, covered with birch, the buQies interwoven and fo inflexible that they could not be divided; however they ftepped over them, but were up to the ancles in boggy ground. Before they had got over this fwamp, an accident happened that greatly difconcerted them. Mr. Buchan, one of tlie draughtfmen whom Mr. Banks had taken with him, fell into a fit. It was abfolutely neccflliry to kindle a fire, and fuch as were moft fatigued remained to aflitl him; but Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhoufe proceeded, and attained the fpot they had in view, where they found a great variety of plants that gratified their curiofity. On returning to their company, amidft the fnow, which fell in great abundance, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had preyioufly fent Mr. Monkhoufe and Mr. Green back to him and thofe that remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill which was conjedured to lie in a better trad: for returning to the wood, and which was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. Dr. Solander having often paffed over mountains in cold countries, was fenfible, that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occafions a drowfinefs that is not eafily refifted ; he therefore intreated his friends to keep in motion, however difagreeable it might be to them. His words were, " Whoever fits down will fleep, and whoever fleeps will wake no more." — Every one leemed accordingly armed with refolution ; but, on a fudden, the cold became fo very intenfe as to threaten the moft dreadful cfieds. It was now very remarkable, that the Do(5tor himfelf, who had fo forcibly admonilhed and alarmed his party, was the firft that infifted to be fuf- fercd to repofe. In fpite of the moft earneft intreaties of jis friends, he lay down amidft the Ihow, and it was with difficulty that they kept him awake. One of the black fervants alio became weak and faint, and was on the point of following this bad example. Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the firft FIRST VOYAGE. 23 firft commodious fpot they could find. Mr. Banks and four more remained with the dodor and Richmond, the black, who with the utmolt difficulty were pcriuaded to come on ; and when they liad traverfed the greatefl; part of the fwamp, they exprefled their inability of going any farther. When the black was told if he remained there he would foon be frozen to death, his reply was, that he was fo much exhaufted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Dr. Solander faid, he was not un- willing to go, but that he muft firft take fome ileep, ftill perfifting in ading contrary to the opinion which he himfelf had delivered to the company. Thus re- folved, they both fat down, fupported by fome buflies, and in a fliort time fell afleep. Intelligence came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then awakened the doctor, who had already almcrft Jofl the ufe of his limbs, though it was but a few minutes fince he fat down ; neverthelefs he ccnfented to go on, but every meafure l.aken to relieve the black proved ineffec- tual. He remained motionlefs, and they were oblig-.d to leave him to the care of a failor, and tlie other black fervant, who appeared to be the leaft hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved as foon as two others were fufficiently warmed, to fill their places. The do6lor, with much difficulty, was got to the fire j and as to thofe who were fent to relieve the companions of Rich- mond, they returned without having been able to find them. What rendered the mortification ftill greater, was, that a bottle of rum (the whole ftock of the party) could not be found, and was judged to have been lelt with one of the three that were miffing. A fall of fnow continuing for near two hours, there now remained no hopes of ieeing the three ablent per- fons again. At one o'clock a great (hout was heard at a diftance, which gave inexprefiible fatisfadlion to every one prelent. Mr. Banks and four others went forwards and met the failor, who hadjuft ftrength enough to walk. He was immediately fent to the fire, and they proceeded to feek the other two. They found Rich- mond L 24 CAPTAIN "^OK S mond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them ; the other black was lying fenfelefs upon the ground. Our endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitlefs ; nor was it pofllble to kindle one upon the fpot, on ac- count of the fnow ; fo that there remained no alternative, but to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate. Brifcoe, another fervant to Mr. Banks, in particular, began to lofe his fenfibiiity. At lad they reached the fire, and pafled the night in a very difagreeable manner. The party that fet out from the (hip, confifted of twelve; two of thefe were already judged to be dead ; it was doubtful whether the third would be able to re- turn on board, and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, feemcd to be threatened with a return of his fits. At day-break on the 17th, nothing prefented itfelf to the" view all around but fnow, which covered alike the trees and the ground ; and the biafts of wind were fo frequent and violent, that their journey feemed to be rendered impradicable, and they had reafon to dread perifliing with cold and famine. About fix in the morning, they were flattered with hope of being deli- vered, bydifcovering the fun through the clouds, which gradually diminifhed. Before their fetting out, meflen- gers were difpatched to the unhappy negroes ; but re- /' turned with the news of their death. ' Hunger prevailing over every other confideration, . induced our travellers to divide the fmall remainder of their provifions, and to fet forward on their journey . about ten in the morning. To their great afLonilhment and fatisfadlion, in about three hours they found them- felves alhore, and much nearer to the (hip than their moft fanguine expedations could have fuggefted. When they looked back upon their former rout from the fea, they found, that inftead of afcending the hill, in a diredl line, they had made a circle almoft round the country. On their return, thefe wanderers received fuch congratulations from thofe on board, as can more eaiily be imagined than expreficd. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on (hore again on the 20th of this month, landing in the bottom of the bay, ♦1 * i i ip I I u .i . M i i. w< ii f i- - - ■ ■■ffw*w^*wrffg nH FIRST VOYAGE. 25 lain on bay, where they colle<5led a number of fliells and plants hitherto unknown. After having returned from dinner, they went to vifit an Indian town, about two miles up the country, the accefs to which, on account of the mud, was difficult. When they approached the town, two of the natives came out to meet them, who began to fliout in their ufual manner. They afterwards con- ducted Mr. Banks and the do(5lor to their town. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty men, women, and children. Their bows and arrows were confl:rud:ed with neatnefs and ingenuity, being made of wood highly poliflied ; and the point, which was either glafs or flint, very fkilfully fitted. The na- tives here did not Ihew any furprizc at the fight of fire arms, but appeared to be well acquainted with their ufe. It is likely that the fpot on which the dodor and Mr. Banks met them, was not a fixed habitation, as their houfes did not feemasif the} were eredted to (land for any long time, and they had no boats or canoes about them. They did not appear to have any form of government, or any ideas of fubordination. They Teem- ed to be the very outcafts of men, and a people that paffcd their lives in wandering in a forlorn manner over dreary waftes ; their dwelling being a thatched hovel, and their cioathingfcarceiy fufficient to keep them from perilhing with cold, even in thefe climates. Their only food was fliell-fifli, which, on any one fpot, muft foon be exhaufted ; nor had they the rudeft implement of art, nor even fo much as was neceffary to drefs their food. Thofe who can be happy in fuch a fituation, can only be fo, becaufe they have not a due feeling of their mifery. We obferved in this place fca lions and dogs, and no other quadrupeds ; neverthelefs it is probable there are other kinds of animals in the country. A great variety of plants were found by the dodor and Mr. Banks. On Sunday, January 22, having got in our wood and water, we failed out of the bay, and continued our courfe through the flreight j and in paffing this, not- withftanding the ^. t . • took- i I. i-A CHAP. III. IVie E?ideavouj' arrives at Otaheite, or George the Third's ijlund — An account of fever alincidents during his Jtay in this ifland — Excurfions into the icoods — V [fits from feveral of the chiefs — The mufic of t lie na- tives, and tlieir manner of burying tlieir dead — Other excurfions and incidents, both on board and onfhore — Firjt interview with Oberea, the fupjwfed queen of the ijland — The quadrant Jiolen, and tlie confe- quences — A vifit to Tootahah, an Indian chief — A wrejlling match dej'cribed — European feeds are Jbzcn — The Indians give ovr people names. ^N the nth of April we made Otaheite, or, as Capt. Wallis had named it, King George the Third's ifland. The calms prevented our approaching it till the lorning, when a breeze fprung up, and feveral canoes D 2 were w ! I i 1 a8 CAPTAIN cook's were feen making towards the fliip. Few of them, how- ever, would come near, and thofe who did, could not be pcrfuaded to come on board. They had brought with them young plantains and branches of trees, which were hauled up the fhip*s fide, and, by their defire, were fluck in confpicuous parts of the rigging, as tokens of peace and friend fliip. We then purchafed their com- niodities, confifling of cocoa-nuts, bannas, bread-fruit, apples, and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew. On the evening of the fame we opened the north- weft point of the ifle, to which the Dolphin's people had given the name of York ifland. We lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th we entered port Royal harbour, in the illand of Otaheite, and an- chored • within half a mile of the Qiore. Many of the natives came off immediately in their canoes, and brought with them bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and fome hops, which ihcy bartered for beads and other trinkets with the fliip's company. Among thofe who came on board the Endeavour, was an elderly man, named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore, and others who had vifited this ifland with Capt. Wallis. Owhaw being confidered by our gentlemen as a very ufeful man, they ftudied to pleafe him, and to gratify all his wifhes. As our continuance in George's illand was not likely to be very (hort, certain rules were drawn up to be obferved by every perfon on board, for the better eftablifliing a regular trade with the natives. The fubftance of thefe rules were, " That in order to prevent quarrels and confufitki, every one of the fliip's crew fhould endeavour to treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by ail fair means to cultivate a friend fhip with them. That no officer, feaman, or other perion, belonging to the fhip, excepting fuch only who were appointed to barter with the natives, Hiould trade, or offer to trade for any kinds of provifions, fruit, or other produce of the ifland, without having exprefs leave fo to do. That no perfon fliould embezzle, trade, or offer to trade with any part of the fhip's flores j and that no fort of iron, or any thing FIRST VOYAGE. S^ thing made of Iron, nor any fort of cloth, or other ufe- ful article in the fliij), IhoukI be g,iven in cxchan;^e for any thing but j^rovifion." Thele ncceflary rules were figned by Captain Cook, and, being his orders, to the non-obfervance of them were annexed certain penalties, befides the punifliment according to the ufual cufloni of the navy. When the bark was properly fecurcd. Captain Cook» Mr. Banks, ajid Dr. Solander, went on (hore, with a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were received by fome of the natives with awe and reverence, who exchanged the tokens of peace, and of- fered to condudl them to a fpot of ground, which would be more convenient for them to occupy, than where they had landed. On their way, the EngJifli made the Indians fome prefcnts, which the latter very thankfully received. They now took a circuit of about four miles through groves of bread-fruit and cocoa-trees. Intermingled with thefe were the dwellings of the na* lives, which confided of huts without walls. In the courfe of their journey they found but few fowls or hogs, and underdood, that none of their conductors, nor any of the people they had hitherto (ecn, were perfons of rank in the illand. Thofe of on: crew who had been before at Otaheite, were likewife of opinion, that the queen's refidence had been removed, as no trace of it. was now to be difcovered. Next day, in the morning, before they could leave the fhip, feverai canoes came about her filled with peo- ple, whofe drefs denoted them to be of the fuperior clafs. Two of thefe came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend : one of them chofe Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremonials confided of tak- ing off their cloaths in great part, and putting thcni upon their adopted friends. This comphmcnt was re- turned by our gentlemen prefenting them with fome trinkets. They then made figns for their new friends to go with them to the place of their abode ; and the latter being defirous of being acquainted with the people, and finding out a more convenient harbour, accepted the i . invitation. 5 ^b' CAPTAIN COCi: S invitation, and went with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and others. We all landed in two boats at the diftance o^ three miles, among a great number of the natives, who conduced us to a large habitation, where we were introd'iced to a middle-aged man, named Tohtahah. When we were feated, he prefented to Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of perfumed cloth, which compliment was re- lurned by a prefent from Mr. Banko. We were then condudled to feveral other large dwellings, wherein we walked about with great freedom. The ladies, fo far from fliunning, invited, and even prefTed us to be feated, by frequently poirting to the mat upon the ground. Walking afterwards along the Ihore, we met, ac- companied by a great number of natives, another chief, ijamcd Tubourai Tamaide, with whom we fettled a treaty of peace in the manner before defcribed. This chief gave us to underftand, that he had provifionsat our fervjce, if we chofe to eat, which he produced, and we dined heartily upon b^read-fruit* plantains, and fifli< During this vifit, Tomio, the chief *s wife, placed her- felf upon the fame mat with Mr. Banks, clofe by him ; but as file was not young, nor appeared ever to have poflefled many charms, this gentleman paid little atten- tion to her; and Tomip received an addiiional morti- fication, when Mr. Banks beckoned to a pretty girl, who came and placed herfelf by him. The princefs was'fpmewhat chagrined at this preference being given to Ifer, rrval. This whimfical fcene was interrupted by an event of a more ferious nature : Dr. Solander having mifled h^s opera-glafs, a complaint was made to the chief, which interrupted the convivial party. The complaint was entorced by Mr. Banks's ftarting up and ftriking the but-end of Ijis mufket againlt the ground, which ftruck the fridiaus with fuch a panic, that ail of them ran pre- cipitately out of the houfe, except the chief, and a few others of the fuperior clal's. That no difadvantageous notions might be entertained of them on account of this circumftance, the chief obferved, with an air of great probity, that the place which the dodor had mentioned on MpfMiPMimiw 1 1 . m ,i(J! W«H.»-"''T-" -MWid*"*^' FIRST VOYAGE. 3.1 4 ^4: given led by laVing J chief, [plaint the Lruck pre- a few Igeous V this great lioned on ,* on this occafion, was not within his diftridt, but he would fend to the chief of it, and endeavour to recover it ; adding, that if this could not be done, he would make thedodor compenfation, by giving him as much new cloth as fliould be thought equal to the value. The cafe however was brought in a little time, and the gl.ifs itfelf foon after. After this adventure was ami- cably terminated, we returned to the fliip about fix in the evening. '-' . . ' , . On Saturday the 15th, in the morning, feveral of the chiefs came on board, bringing with them hogs, and other refrefhments, in exchange for which they re- ceived linen, beads, and other trinkets ; but fome of them took the liberty of flealing the lightning chain. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks, and fome. of the other gentlemen, went on fhore, to fix on a pro- ^ per fpot to ered a fort for their defence, duri"ng their"' flay on the illand, and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpofe ; a great number of the natives looking on all the while, and behaving in the mod peaceable and friendly manner. ]\' ^-•!^i'''" ."!.:,/' Mr. Banks and his friends having feen few bogs and,' ' poultry in their walks, they fulpeded that they hacf, ' been driven up the country ; for which reafon they de^-^" terniined to penetrate into the woods, the tent being ' guarded by a petty officer and a party of marines. Oh , Ithib excuifion feveral of the natives accompanied the - ^ JEnglirti. While the party were on their march, they '. were alarmed by the difcharge of two pieces fired by they" "\ [guard of the tent. Owhaw having now called together jthe captain's party, difpeifed all the Indians, except '^.^ [three, who, in token of their fidelity, broke branches'" )f trees, according to their cuftom, and whom it was thought proper to retain. When they returned to the, * tent, they found that ^n Indian having fnatched away'", Sne of the centinel's mufkets, a young midfliipmanj^ "^ rho commanded the party, was fo imprudent as to give [he niarines orders to fire, which were obeyed, and man)(| J^ bf the natives were wounded ; but this did not fatisfy ',^* ^] 'lem, as the offender had not fallen, they therefore pur-'^l' ^ 'iAiW m< -^a CAPTAIN COOK S fued him, and revenged the theft by his death. This adion, which was equally inconfiftent with pohcy and hu- manity, could not but be very difpleahng to Mr. Banks; but as what had paffed could not be recalled, nothing remained but to endervour to accommodate matters witii the Indians. Accordingly he croffed the river, where he met an old man, through whofe mediation fe- Veral of the natives were prevailed on to come over to them, and to give the ufual tokens of friendship. Mr. Banks on the lytb, had the misfortune to lofc Mr. Buchan. The fame day they received a vilit from Tubourai Tamaide, and Tootahah. They brought with them fome plantain branches, and till thele were received, they would not venture on board. They bar- tered fome bread-fruit and a hog, which was ready drefled, for nails, with the EngHlh. Tubourai Tamaide vifiteu Mr. Banks at his tent cr Wednefday the 19th, and brought with him his • 'itV and family. He afterwards afked that gentleman to ac- company him to the woods. On their arrival at a place where he Sometimes refided, heprefented his guefts with two garments, one of which was of red cloth, and the other was made of fine matting ; having thus clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the Ihip, and ftaidto dinner with his wife and fon. On the 22d we were entertained by fome 6f the mii- ficians of the country, who performed on aninftrument fomewhat refembling a German flute, but the per- forrher blew through his noftril indead of his mouth, and others accompanied this inftrument, finging only one tune. On the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an ejxurfion into the country, and found it level and fertile along the fhore, for about two miles to the eaflward ; after which the hills reached quite to the water's edgCj a d farther on, they ran out into the fea. Having palfed thefc hills, which continued about three miles, we came to an extenfive plain, abounding with gdod habitations, and the people Icemcd to enjoy a confidei^ble ihare of property. This place i«^as rendered Itill more agrteable i^y < > . - JlH ratP«Kj.i.in«iwiMUffjR4ii»w ■« h. This yandhu- r. Banks ; , nothing e matters the river, iiation fe- le over to lip. >:,:<■ ne to lofc vilit from brought hele were They bar- ^as ready lis tent en n his "'ift nan to ac- at a place ^uefts with 1, and the us clothed nd ftaid to !)f the mu- nftrument the per- is mouth, ging only :r made an and fertile eaftward ; ;er*s edge j ing palied J, we came ibitations, ,e (hare of agrteable by FIRST VOYAGE. 53 by a wide river ifTuing from a valley, and which wa- tered it. We croffed this river, when perceiving the country to l"^ barren, we rcfolved to return. On the 25th, in the evening, feveral of the gentle- men's knives were milling ; Mr. Banks, who had loll his among the reft, accufed Tubourai Tamaide of having taken it, which, as he was innocent, occafi- oned him a great deal of unmerited anxiety. He made ligns, while the tears Itarted from his eyes, that if he had ever been guilty of fuch a theft as was imputed to him, he would fuffer his throat to be cut. But though he was innocent, it was plain from many in- Itances, that the natives of this ifland were very much addifted to thieving ; though Mr. Banks's fervant had miflaid the knife in queftion, yet the reft were pro- duced in a rag by one of the natives. When the guns, on the 26th, which were fix fwi- vels, had been mounted on the fort, the Indians feemed to be in great trouble, and feveral of the fifliermen re- moved, fearing, notwithftanding all the marks of friendlhip which had been fliewn to them by our peo- ple, they Ihould, in a few days, be fired at from the fort J yet the next day, being the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide came with three women and a friend of his, who was a remarkable glutton, and after dinner re- turned to his ow^n houfe in the wood. In a fliort time after he came back to complain to Mr. Banks of a butcher, who had threatened to cut his wifeV throat, L'..v aufe file would not barter a ftone hatchet for a nail. 1 aopearing clearly that the oflfender had infringed t; io of the rules enjoined by the captain for trading vvitli the natives, he was flogged on board in their On t^c 28th, Terapo, one cf Tubourai Tamaide's female attendants, came down to the fort in the greateft affli6tion, the tears guftiing from her eyes. Mr. Banks feeing her full of lamentation and forrow, infilled upon knowing the caufe, but inftead of an- fv e'ing, Ihe (truck herfelf feveral times with a fhark's tooth upon her head, till, an effufipn of blood fol- 2 if li - ^ . lowed. 34 CAPTAIN COOK R y; lowed, while her diftrefs was difregarded by feveral other Indians, who continued laughing and talking with the utmoft unconcern. After this (he gathered up fome pieces of cloth, which (lie had thrown down -to catch the blood, and threw them into the fea, as if (he wifhed to prevent the Icaft trace or mark of her abfurd behaviour. She then bathed in the river, and with rem^xkable chearfulnefs, returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary had happened. Mr. Molineux, mafter of the Endeavour, feeing a woman whofe name was Oberea, he declared flie was th.e fame perfon whom he judged to be the queen of the ifland when he was there with Captain Wallis. The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, of whom £o much had been faid by the crew of the Dolphin. With rega ^. ^o her perfon, fhe was tall and rather large niade j was about forty years of age. her fkin white, and ucr eyes had great cxprelTion in them : flie had been handfomc, but her beauty was now upon the decline. Many prefents were made her, particularly a child's doll, which Ihe viewed very at- tentively. Captain Cook accompanied her on fliore, and when we landed, flie prefented him with a hog and fome plantains, in return for his prefents, which were carried to the fort in proceflion, Oberea and the captain bringing up the rea *. In their way they met Tootahah, who no fooner iaw the doll, than he dif- covered llrong fymptoms of jealoufy, nor could any method be found of conciliating his friendfliip, but that of complimenting him with a baby alfo. A doll was now preferable to a hatchet, but a very fliort time taught the Indians the fuperior value of iron, which on account of its ufefulnefs, prevailed over every other confideration. , On the 29th, near neon, Mr. Banks paid a vifit to Oberea, but was informed that (lie was afleep un- der the awning of her canoe ; and, going to call her up, was furprifed at finding her in bed with a young fellow, a difcovery which caufed him to retire rather difconcerted j but he foon underftood that a com- merce m^mmmmir 1). FIRST VOYAGE. S3 inerce of this fort was by no means confidered as fcan- dalous, the ladies frequently courting the men to amorous dalliance, of which they made no fecret ; and as to youni^ Obadee, found in bed with the queen, he was well known by every one to be the obje£t of her lafcivious hours. The queen foon got up, and dreffed herfe't^ to wait upon Mr. Banks, and, after having, as a token of her particular regard, put on him afuit of fine cloth, they proceeded together to the tents. In the evening Mr. Banks vifited Tubourai Tamaide. He was aftonilhed to find this chief and his family all in tears, and not being able to difcover the caufe, he foon took leave of them. Upon his return, the officers told him, that Owhaw had foretold, that the guns would be fired within four days, and as this* was the eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the fituation they judged themfelves to be in. As we were appre- henfive of ill confequences from this prepoffellion, the centinels were doubled at the fort, and we thought it necelTary to keep under arms. - j. ^ i On the 30th, Tomio came in great hafte to our tent, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that Tubourai Tamaide was dying, owing to fomewhat that had been given him by our people, and intreated him inftantly to go to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went and found the Indian very fick. He had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf which they faid contained fome of the poifon. Mr. Banks having ex- amined the leaf, found it was nothing but tobacco, which the Indian had begged of fome of the fliip's company.. .^- #>.*^^f :* >i. i, ^ "" .. . The matter, however, appeared in a very ferious light to Tubourai Tamaide, who really concluded from the violent ficknefs he fuffered, that he had fwallowed fome deadly drug, the terror of which no doubt, con- tributed to make him yet more fick. While Mr. Banks was examining the leaf, he looked up to him,, as if he had been jult on the point of death. But wheil the nature of the dreadful poifon was found "ut, he only ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which ■^ E 2 foon *i- '* *^ 3< CAPTAIN COOK S foon reftored him to health, and he was as chearful as before the accident happened. i^.^ '* On 'the 1ft of May, Captain Cook having produced an iron adze, which was made in imitation of the ftone ones ufed by the natives, fliewed it to Tootahah, as a curiofity. The latter fnatched it up, and infifted on having it ; and though he was offered the choice of any of the articles in the chefts which were opened before him, yet he would not accept of any thing in its ftead. ' . •''*' ' ^ May 2, we took the aftronomical quadrant and fome of the inftruments on fliore that afternoon ; and to our great furprife when we wanted to makfe ufe of the cjuadrant, the next day, it was not t6 be found ; a matter which was looked upon as the more extraor- dinary, as a centinel had been placed the whole night within a few yards of the place where it wasdepolit- ed. A ftri6l fearch was made in and about the fort, and a reward Offered in order to obtain it again. But this proving fruitlefs, Mr. Banks and fome other gen- tlemen fet out for the woods, where they thought they might get fome tidings of what was ftolen. In their way they met with Tubourai Tamaide and fome of the natives. This chief was made to underffand by figns, that they had loft the quadrant, and that'afs fome of their countrymen muft have taken- it, they infifted tipon being fhewn thbplace where it was con-' ceaJed. Having proceeded a few miles together, after fome enquiry, Tubourai Tamaide wasinrormed who the thief was, and it was found that he waB then at a place ab'but foiar rriileS diftarit. As they had no fire arms but a brace of piftols, nor caring to truft themfelves fo far from the fort, a meffage was dif« patched to Captain Cook, requefting him to fend out a party to fupport them. The Captain accordingly fet out with a party properly armed, after haying laid aA Embargo upon all the canoes in the bay. In the mean time, Mr. Banks and 'MY. Gtfeen pro- ceeded on their wayj and at the place which had been mentioned, were met by one or Tubourai; Tam^ide's 'M^ " / own *%^ d ^ ^\ «s'' «* ... If C^ .*^ mimmm , , I •%" FIRST VOYAGE. S7 own people, bringing with him part of the quadrant ; the cafe and the othor parts ot* the inllrumcnt were recovered ibon atterwards, v\hcn it was found that it had received no real injury, though it had been taken to pieces. When they returned in the evening, they were much furprifed to fnid Tootahah under confinement hi the fort, while a croud of natives furrounded the gate, difcovering marks of the greateit anxiety for the fate of their chief. The occalion of this detention originates from the conduct of the Indians : alarmed at Captaiji Cook's having gone up the country with an armed party, moft of the natives left the fort that evening, and one of the canoes attempted to quit the bay. The lieutenant who commanded on board the fliip, having it in charge not to fuffer any canoe to depai t, fent a boat to detain her, but flie no fooner approached, than the Indians jumped into the fea. Tootahah being of the number, was taken up, and fent by the lieutenant to the officer that commanded at the fort, who concluded he fliould do right to de- > tain him prifoner, while the poor chief thought of nothing but being put to death, till Captain Cook caufed him to be /.^turned, to the? gre^tjoypf j,J^is > countrymen. >- -^ • -• '?^ ■ ' 7 > f-^ : f -^ On the 3d provifions were extremely fcarce, as the markets continued to be ill fupplied on the ac- count already mentioned ; and it was not without fome ditHculty that Mr. Banks got a few baikets of. bread-fruit. However, fome time afterwards, having produced fome nails to barter for proviiions, we got twenty cocoa-nuts and fome bread-fruit, for one of,the fmalleft fize, fo that we foon had plenty of thefe ar- - tides, thouQ^h no hof^s. .. , On the 10th, in the forenoon, Oberea. paid us. a . vifit, accofnpanied by Obadee, prefenting us with ai- hog and fome bread-fruit. ,This was the iirll vifit we .;, had received frpni this jadyj fmce the lofs of our qua- drant, and the confinement of Tootahah. By this time our forge. was fet up, which afforded a new fub- *»^ it M 4 38 CAPTAIN COOKS jc6l of admiration to tlie Indians, and to Captain Cook an additional o})portunity of conferring obligations on them, by permitting the fmilh to convert the old iron, which they were fuppofed to have procured from the Dolphin, into diflcrent kinds of tools. Oberea pro- duced as much iron as would have made for her ano- ther axe ; this Ihe requefted to have done ; but the lady could not be gratified in this particular, upon which (lie brought a broken axe, defiring it might be mended. The axe was mended, and to all appear- ance file was content. > im % On the 11th we fowed, in ground properly pre- pared, feeds of melons, and other plants, but none of them came up except muftard. Mr. Banks thought the feeds were fpoiled by a total exclufion of frefh air, they having all been put into fmall bottles, and fealed up with rofm. CHAP. IV. ■•#TT ' ,3 \^. ^f. An extraordinanj vifit — Divine fervice at tended by the ' natives of Otaheite — An uncommon fight — Tuboiirai ':■ Tamaid£ found guilty of t/i eft — A relation ofivhat ; "-^ happened at the fort, ivhen ohferving the Tranfit of ^ Fenus — A defcription of an Indian funeral — Prepa- ; rations made for leaving the ifiand — An account of , , their departure, and the behaviour of the natives on , this occafion. jstW .%■ ON the 12th of this month (May) an uncommon ceremony was performed by fome of the natives. As Mr. Banks was fitting in his boat, trading with them as ufual, fome ladies, who were ftrangers, ad- vanced in proceflion towards him. The reft of the Indians on each ilde gave way, and formed a lane for the vifitors to pafs, who coming up to Mr. Banks, prefented him with fome parrot's feathers, and vari- ous kinds of plants. Tupid, who flood .by Mr. Banks, a6led as his mafter of the ceremonies, and receiving the branches, which w^re brought at fix difF^eht V .: :- i- """ . ' tk ' >!• -^ times, K p^-ji; a.* FIRST VOYAGR. s« times, laid down in the boat. After this fomc large bundJcs of cloth were brought, confiftlng of nine pieces, divided into three parcels, one of the women, called Oorattooa, who ap|)eared to be the principal. Hopping upon one of them, pulled up her cloaths as high as her waiit, and then, with an airof unaffetted hniplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony Die repeated, with fimilar circumdanccs, on the other two parcels of cloth ; and the whole being then pre- fented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and faluted him ; in return for which extraordinary favours, he made them fuch prefents as he thought ^ould belt pleafe them. On Sunday the 14th, divine fervlce was performed at the fort, "fubourai Tamaide and his wife were prefent, but though they behaved with much de- cency, they made no enquiries with refpedt to the ceremonies. The day thus began with a6ts of devo- tion, but concluded with thofe of lewdnefs exhibited among the natives by way of entertainment. On Monday the 15th, Tubourai Tamaide was de- te£ted in having committed a theft. Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but, when his honefty was put to the teit, a balk^t of nails, left in the corner of the tent proved irrefiftiblc. He confefled the fa£t of having ftolen four nails, but when reftitution was demanded, Tamaide faid the nails were at Eparre. High words pafled on the occaiion, and in the end, the Indian produced one of the nails, and was to be forgiven on reftoring the reft ; but his virtue was not equal to the tafk, and he withdrew himfeif, as ufual, " when he had committed any offence. ^ On the 25th, Mr. Banks feeing Tubourai Tamaide' I and his wife Tomio.at the tent for the firft time fince jthe former had beea detected in fteahng the nails, he endeavoured to perfuade hhn to reftore them, but in vain. As our gentlemen treated him with a referve and coolnefs, which he could not but perceive, his [flay was ihort, and he departed in a very abrupt Imanncr ; iior could our furgeon the next morning .^^ ■' *■ ,«*:& ^ W '^^- #' ^it ^ perfuade J 40 CAPTAIN cook's -■^• ,^- nt^ pciTuade him to effc6t a reconciliation by bringing down the nails. At this time the preparations were made for view- ing the tranlit of Venus, and two parties were fent out to make obfcrvations from dilTerent fpots, that in cafe of failing in one place they might fucceed in ano- ther. They employed themfelves for fome time in preparing their inftruments, and inllrutling thofe gen- tlemen who were to go out, in the ufe ui them ; and on Thurfday the 1ft of June, they fenr the long boat with Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhoufc, (the two obfervers) and Mr. vSnoring, with proper ir.ftruments, to Emayo. Others were fent to find out a fpot that might anfwer the purpofe, at a convenient diftance from their prin- cipal ftation. The party that went towards Emayo, after rowing the greater part of the night, having hailed a canoe, were informed of a place, by the Indians on board, which was judged pro])er for their obfervatory, where they accordingly fixed their tents. It was a rock that rofe out of the water about 140 yards from the fliore. v ^, Saturday the 3d, (the day of the tranfit) Mr. Banks, w *iis foon as it w^as light, left them, in order to go and ' * get frefli provifions on the ifland. This gentleman had the fatisfaftion to fee the fun rife without a cloud. The king, whofe name was Tarraro, came to pay him a vifit, as he was trading with the natives, and brought with him Nunna his fifter. As it was iv cuilomafy for the people in thefe parts to be feated at their conferences, Mr. Banks fpread histUrban of India cloth, which he wore as a hat, upon the ground, on which they all fet down. Then a hog and a dog, fome cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit, were brought, be- ing the king's prefent, and Mr. Banks fent for an adze, a fliirt, and fome bead©, which were prefented to his majefly, who received them with apparent fa- tisfatlion. Afterwards the king, his fifter, and three beautiful females, their attendants, returned with Mr. Banks to the obfervatoiy, where he llie wed them . ^.. the f * w % ,^ ■ppffii iV ■/ -4 -■• ff !■ '.^^ FIRST VOYAGE. 41 the tranfit of Venus, when the planet was upon the fun, and acquainted them, that to view in that fitua- tion was the caufe of his undertaking a voyage to thofe remoter parts. According to this gentleman's ac* count, the produce of this ifland is nearly the fame with that otOtaheite ; the people alfo refembled thofe of that ifland ; he had feen many of them upon it who were acquainted with the nature of trading articles. The parties that were fent out to make their obfcrva- tions on the tranfit, had good fuccefs in their under- taking : though they differed rather more than might have been expelled in their account of the contact. ^ Mr. Green's account was as follows: The firft external contaft - - 9 25 4 The firft internal contadl, or total emerlion, .-- - - 9 44 4 The fecond internal contad, or be- ginning of the emerlion, - ^--31 The lecond external contad, or iif 2 lOJ • total emerfion, Latitude of the obfervatory 17 deg. 29 inin. 15 fee. fouth ; — lon- gitude, 149 deg. 32 rnin. 30 fee. weft from Greenwich'. While the gentlemen and officers were bufied in view^ing the tranfit, fome of the fhip's company having broke into the ftore-room, took the liberty of flealing a quantity of fpike-nails. After a itri6t fearch, the thief was found out ; he had, however, but few of the nails in his pofTeflion; but he was ordered to re- ceive two dozen of laflies, by way of example, x^ On, the 4th, an old female of fome diftinftion dy- ing, gave us an opportunity of obferving th^ ceremo- nies ufed by thefe iflanders in difpofing of the dead bodies of their people. In the front of the fquare fpace, a fort of (tile was placed where the relations of the deceafed flood to give token gf their grief. There were under the awning fome pieces of cloth, whe|eon were the tears and blood of the mourners, who u&d to wo.ui;i4 thenifelves with a fliark's tooth upon thefe occafions.'^A.Eour temporary hauies wsere ere^ed at a fmall diftance, i« one of which renqi^ined fome^of the relatious^iilf ihe. d€!,qeafe4 ; the phief ny)urnetre^J&ded 2 ^rv^'jT' — > F '*% . , 'ia .4 •'■*S' •^-• ♦>2- ,■^^-4^ #■ -■''. ^-^■ .^ a» r » 412 CAPTAIN cook's in nriottier : and was dreflcd in a particular manner^ in order to perform a certain ceremony. When the corpfc is rotten, the hones are huried near the fpot. Conci rniiig the ceremony we arc about to fpeak of, the foIlowin<5 is the account we liavc of it, which may not be unentertaining to the reader. It was per- formed on the lOth, and iMr. Banks was fo defirous of being prefent, that he agreed to take a part in it, when he was informed t-liat he could not be a fpe6ta- tor on any other condition. - v^.Uj t/r.:. •■,! ijfn.vu i,, * He went accordingly in the evening, to the place where the body was to be depofited, where he was met by the relations of the deceafed, and was after- wards joined by fcveral other perfons. Tubourai . Tamaidc was the principal mourner, whofe drefs was whimfical, though not altogether ungraceful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European drefs, and had no other covering than a^fmall piece of cloth that was tied round his middle 5 his body was blacked over with'cliarcoal and water, as were the bodies of fe ral others, and among thehi fome females, who w no more covered than himfelfV ."iThe proceflicr then began, and the chief mourner uttered fome words which were judged to be a prayer, when he ap- proached the body, and he repeated thefe words as he came up to his own houfe.t They afterwards went on, by }>^rmIitjon, towards the fort. It is ufual for the rcilof the Indians to lliun thefe procellions as much as pofiible ; they accordingly ran into the woods in great haile as foon as th^y Came in view* ■t,oiM:s 1 v From the fort the mourners proceeded a'ldngilirf fliore, crofl'ed the river, then critered the woods, paf- ling feveral Jioufes, which became imniediateiy unin^ habited, and during the reftof the proceflion, which c( h'inued for half an hmir^ not an Indian was vifiblc, ^jr. Banks fiHed an officii that they called Nlniveh,, and there were tvi'*) others iof th& fame chara^lef. When none of the other natives vi'ere to be fedn* they: a[:iproachcd the chief niourncry faying, Imatata ; Itien thofe \vho had affiftcd at the/cerenio«y bathed in the ■ hx-i. -'^■:- ;>- ;. ^^-^ ^:r{-i i-is river, 4^. FIR5T VOYAGE. 4J river, and rcfumcd their former drefs. Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a principal part, and received applaufe from Tubourai Tamaide, the chief mourner. VVhat can have intro- duced among thefe Indians (o ilxange a cuftom as that of expoling their dead above ground, till the flcfli is confumed by putrefaction, and then burying their bones, it is, perhaps, impolhble to gucfs ; nor is it Jefs difficult to determine, why the repofitorics of their dead fliouid be alfo places of worfliip. On the 12th, the Indians having loft fgmc of their bows and arrows, ^nd ftrings of plaited h^ir, a com- plaint was made to the captain. The affair was en- quired into, and the fa6t being w^Il atteiled, the qfr fenders received each two dozen of lalhes. . ,T On the 14th, in the night, an iron coal-rakjB for the oven, was ftolo'; and many other things having, at different times* been conveyed a vay, Capt. Cook judged it of fome confcquence, to put an end, if pof- iible, to fuch pradticesf^ by making it their, common intereft tQ prevent it. t.He had aheady gvycn ftri^t or- ders, that the centinels fliould not fire upon the Indi- ans, even if they were detected in the fa6t; but many repeated depredations determined him,-^© mak^ reprifals. i >t. , /» i ;. A few days, after^ tweiit)i-fi?ven of Ijhelr double canoes with mils arrived, containing cargoes of filli ; thefe the captain feizecl,! and they gavpnoticcj that unlefs the rake, and all tthe othervth'mgs that, had been llolen, were returned, the vcfl'eji fliOAild bg burnt.. The menaces produced no otherie5(M\,than the relti- tutioq o^tlwj rake, allrithe- other things remaining;- in t-hcirp©flfeffiottn The captain, hpwcv^r, thought ht to give up the cargocsijias tli'e innocent fpatives w^r.e in great dhbrefs for wantiof thom, .a.nd h) order to pre- vent tir back the cloak, which the chief had given up rather through fear than from any principle of honefty. On their return, they found the houfe quite defertcd ; ahd about foilr in the morning, tlie centinel gave the *! alarm that the boat was miffing. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks were greatly aftoniflied at this account, and ran to the water fide ; but though it was a clear ftar-light riiorning, no boat was to be feen. Their fil'uation was now exti*emely difagreeable. The par^y coftfilted of no more than foiir, having with them only *^ qnc muiket and two pocket piftols, without a fpare ball or a charge of powder. After having remained fomc time in a Hate of ahxi^ty-aVifip^ froraf tliefe circumftartces, of which they '^feared the Indians' migHt take advantage, the boat, which had' bfeen driven away by the tide, returjiedi Xt» 4 and Mr. Banks and his companiorts had ho fponer . ■ br^kkfafted than they departed. This plate is fituated ^ ' ^ . on the n<)irth fide of Tiarrabou, the fouth eaft penin- Vv:?*i luiS t)f the inland, about five miles eaft from the ** ifthmus, with ah harbour eqiial to any in thofe parts. It wafe fertile and populous, and the inhabitants every ■> ■^ where behaved with great civility. t;*.'t 1^ Ori Frid^ the 30th, they arrived at' Qtahtirou, . It . , wfiere' they foiind' their old- acquaintance Tootahah, ""who received theiti With^reat civility, andprovided f them a good fut)^>er, and convenient lodging ; and thougb they had been 'fo (liamefally plundered the Sfe laft time they flept with this chief, they fpent thq ' ,^ night with^me greateft' fdeurity, hone of their cloaths J •♦nor any dthef'iirtibte being mimh'g thenext morning. '^ • Mr' Yj^gy returned to th1e fort^t Port- RdyU harbour m ** the 1ft of July, having dlfcovered the ifland, inoJud- ing both peniftfulasi to bfe 'about 11)0 miles in cir- " cumfcrenC6ir':^ri^S fci^ifhf© v vaults formed by rocky fragments in the courfc 06 f their journey, in which, as they were told, benighted[^ '^• travellers fometimes took flielter. Purfuing the coiirfe of the river about fix miles farther, they fouqd ifc "^^H . banked on both fides by rocks almoft 100 fee^t in'jf^ "^ [height, and nearly perpendicular 3 a way, however, [might be traced up thefe precipices, alo^ng which jtheir Indian guides would have condudted therr^^ but' [they declined the offer, as there did not appear-^ be [any thing at the fummit which could repay them for Ithe toil and dangers of afcending it*,,}:jf,r;i|j^ 1 ■ . > Mr. Banks fought in vain for minerala an^ong the 1^ [rocks, which were naked almoft on all fides, but no. * Imineral fubftances w^cre found. The ftones everyr jwhere exhibited figns of having been burnt, whiqh-, [was the cafe of all the Hones that were^foundtwhilof^V* we ftaid at Otaheite, and both there and in the iieigh- bouring iflands the traces of fii-qwcr^ evident in ihe* :lay upon the hills. - ^^V ' ■;»; On the 4th, a great quantity of the (^ds of water- , lelons, oranges, limes, and other plants, brought from Rio de Janeiro, were planted on each lidt of the fort, by Mr. Banks^ who alfo plentifully fupplied ihe Indians with them, and planted many of them iiiithp^ koods ^. f ■ r{^, j^t-ix ;ti. ■ ,,;,.,}^ '>r{f ^^-Y-'- By this time they began to think of making prepa-- rations to depart ; but Omao and Obcrea, and their ton and daughter, vifited them before they vvere ready jo fail. The fon of Waheatua, chief of the fouth-caft beninfula, was alfo here at the fame time ; and they. Ivere favoured with the company of the Incijan who Nad been fo dexterous as to Ileal the quadrant, as ^ >efore related. The carpenters being ordered to taker iown the gates and palifadoes of the fort, tojje con- ferted into fire:\yood, ,Qne of the natives ftole the 4, "" ..l| ^^ ^ftaple '■ '4'"' V • f- ■%, ,.p.M • % f f ■'I ■^4i. CAPTAIN COOKS *t. -ji< ftaple and hook of the gate ; he was purfued, in vain, but the property was Afterwards reqovered, and re- turned to the owners by Tubourai Tamaide. .^<,« Before their dv^parture, two circumftances hap- pened which gave Captain Cook fome uneafinefs. ^ The firft was that two foreign failors having been ' " afcroad, one of them was robbed of his knife, which ^^.^ as he was endeavouring to recover, he was danger- 'V oufly hurt with a Hone by the natives, and his com- * ^panion alfo received a flight wound in' the head. The # offenders efcaped, and the captain was not anxious ^ ^to have them taken, as he did not want to have any difputes with the Indians. Between the 8th and 9th, two young marines one "" ,^ight withdrew themfelves from the fort, and in the m, i^ morning were not to be met with. Notice having ^'. been given the next day that the fliip would fail that Mf^ \vOr the enfuing day ; as they did not return. Captain ? ^ Cook began to be apprehenfive that they defigned to remain on fliore ; but as he was apprifed, in fuch a V cafe no efFedtual means could be taken to recover them without running a rifque of deflroying the har- *2 mony fubfifting between the Englifli and the natives, he refolved to wait a day in hopes of their returning of their own accord. But as they were dill milling on the 10th in the morning, an enquiry was made ?S infter them, when the Indians declared, that they did * not propofe to return, having taken refuge among the mountains, where it was impoflible for them to ,^be difcovered ; and added, that each of them had •taken a wife. In confequmce of this, it was inti- mated to feveral of the chic fs that were in the fort with the women, among whom were Tubourai ^--■Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not '" be fuffered to quit it till the deferters were produced. , ;'They did not Ihew any figns of fear or difcontent, ' ,.v;,.hu^ afTured the captain the marines fliould be fent %^ back. In the mean time, Mr. Hick was difpatched in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board the fhip, .f .5 I- r % ;£/. m /**■ ^■"^ ■'"*s- n and %. ^ FIRST VOYAGE. ) recover 49 and he executed his commiflion without giving any alarm N'ght coming on, Captain Cook thought it not pru- dent to let the people, whom he had detained as hof- tagcs, remain at the fort ; he therefore gave orders to remove them on board, which greatly alarmed them all, efpecially the females, who teftified the moll: gloomy apprelienfions by floods of tears. Captain Cook ef- corted Oberea and others to the ("hip ; but Mr. Banks remained on fliore with fome Indians, whom he thought it of leis importance to detain. In the evening, one of the marines was brought back by fome of the natives, who reported that the other and two of our men who went to recover them, would be detained while Toota- hah was confined. Upon this, Mr. Hicks was dif- patched in the long boat, with a ftrong body of men, to relcue the prifoners ; at the fame time, the -captain told Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to aflift them with fome of his people, and to give orders in his name, that the men Ihould be fet at liberty ; for that he would be expedted to anfwer for the event. Toota- hah immediately complied, and this party releafed the men without oppofition. On the nth, about feven in the morning, they re- turned, but without the arms, which had been taken from them when they were made prifoners j thefe, how- ever, being reftored foon after, the chiefs on board were allowed to return, and thofe who had been detained on fliore, were alfo fet at liberty. On examining the de- ierters, it appeared that the Indians had told the truth, they having chofen two girls, with whom they would have remained in the ifland. At this time, the power of Oberea was not fo great as it was when the Dolphin firfl difcovered the ifland. Tupia, whofe name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had been her prime minifter. He had a knowledge of navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted with the number, fituation, and inhabitants of the adjacent iflands. Tliis chief had often expreflTed a defire to go with us when we conti- nued our voyage. -•• ,. " * 3 .„ * . ^ ' On so CAPTAIN cook's On the I ith in the morning he came on boards with a boy about twelve years of age, his fervant, named Taiyota, and requefted the gentlemen on board to let him go with them. As we thought he might be ufeful to us in many particulars, we unanimously agreed to comply with his requefl. Tupia then went on (bore for the laft time to bid farcwel to his friends, to whom he gave feveral baubles, as parting tokens of remembrance. Mr. Banks, alter dinner, being willing to obtain a drawing of the Moraia, which Tootahah had in his polTeffion at Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander, They immediately, upon landing, repaired to Toota- hah*s houfe, where they were met by Oberea and (eve- ral others. A general good underftanding prevailed. Tupia came back with them, and they promifed to view the gentlemen early the next day, as they were told they (hould then fail. On the 15th, thefc friendly people came very early on boardy and the fhip was furrounded with a vaft number of canoes, filled with Indians of the lower fort. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor ; and, notv.fithftanding all the little mifunderftandings between the Englifli and the natives, the latter, who pofleffed a great fund of good nature and much fehfi- bility, took their leave, weeping in an affef the natives came on board to take their leave. Capt. [^ook prefented to Oree, a pewter plate, ftamped with Ihis infcription, " His Britannic Majefty's fliip Endea- ]our, Captain Cook, commander, i6th of July, 1769.** "'^e gave him alfo fome medals, refembling our Eng- |(h coin, which he promifed to keep, in order to re- jembcr us. On the 20th, by the diredion of Tupia, we anchored a bay, formed by a reef, on the north fide of the ifiand. 5^ CAPTAIN cook's iiland. Two canoes foon came of!' from the flioi'e, and the natives brouglit with them two fmall hogs, which they exchanged tor fome nails and beads. The captain, Mr. Banks, and other gentlemen, now went on (hore, accompanied by Tupia, who introduced them with the fame kind of ceremonies that had taken place on their landing at Huaheine ; after which Captain Cook took polTcflion of this and the three neighbouring iilands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolaboia, in the name of his Britannic majefty. On the 21 ft, the mailer was fent to infped the fou- thern part of the ifland, and a lieutenant was difpatched in the yawl to found the harbour where the Endeavour lay. While the captain went in the pinnace, to take a view of that part of the ifland which lay to the north- ward, Mr. Banks and the gentlemen, went again on| (hore, trading with the natives, and learching after the produftions and curiofities of the country. The hazy weather and brifk gales prevented us from I getting under fail till the 24th, when we put to i'ea, andi ileered northward within the reef, towards an opening, at the diftance of about fix leagues, in eifedting which we were in danger of ftriking on a rock, the man who founded, crying out on a fudden, " two fathoms," which could not but alarm us greatly 5 but either the mallier was miftaken, or the Ihip went along the edge oF a coral rock, many of which in the neighbourhood of | thefe iilands are as fteep as a wall. The bay where the Endeavour lay at anchor, called! Oopoa, is capacious enough to hold a great number ofl (hipping, and fecured from the fea by a reef of rocks, j Its fituation is off the eaftermoft part of the iiland. The provifions confift of cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, and a few hogs and fowls. The country round aboutl the place where we landed, w^as not fo plentiful as at Otaheite or Huaheine. The fouthermoft opening in the reef, or channel into the harbour, by which we en- tered, is a little moie than a cable's length wide 5 it liesl off the eaftermoft point of the illand, and may be found by a fmall woody illand, which lies to the fouth-eaft ofl it, First voyage. 57 it called Oatara J north-wcfb from which are two other iflots called Opururu and Tamou. Between thcfe is the cliannel tlirough which we went out of the harbour, and it is a full quarter of a mile wide. On the 23th, we were within a league or two of the ifland of Otoha i but could not get near enough to the land, the wind liavini^ proved contrary. In the morn- ing, Mr. Banks and Dr. Sohmder went in the long-boat with the niufter, in order to found a harbour on the ea'fl: file of the ifland, which they found fafeand convenient. We then went on fliore, and purchafcd a large quantity of plantains, and foine hogs and fowls. The pi;oduce of this ifland was much the fame with that of Ulieta, but feemed ^o be more barren. , , j j We then made fail to the northward, and at eight o'clock on the 29th, we were under the high peaks of Bolabola. We found the ifland inaccefllble in this part. Oh the 30th, wedifcovered an ifland which Tupia called Maurua, but faid it was fmall, furrounded by a reef, and without commodious harbour, but inhabited, and nearly yield the fame produce as the adjacent iflands. In the afternoon, finding ourfelves to windward of fome harbours that lay oh the welt fide of Ulieta, we intended to put into one of them, in order to (lop a leak which had fprung in the powder room. The wind being right againft us, we plied on and off fill the afternoon pf the 1 ft of Auguft, when we came to an anchor in the en- trance of the channel, which led into one of the harBpurs. On Wednefday the 2d, when th^ tide tuirped, we came into a pi-oper place for mooring, in 28 fathom. Many of the natives came off, and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were purchafed upoii niod^rafe terms. Mr. Banks and Dr. Soland^r went on (tiote, [and fpent the day very agreeably j the. natives (lie wed them great refped, being conducted to the houses of the chief people. In one houfe, they pbferved fopie [very young girls, drelfed in the neateft mstniier, who kept their places, waiting for the flrangers to accoft them; thefe girls were the moll beautiful the gentlemen [had ever feen. CAPTAIN cook's In one of thefe houfes we were entertained with a dance. The performer put upon his head a larf.v piece of wicker-work, about four feet lopg of a cylindrical form, covered with feafhers, and edged round with (bark's teeth. With ihis hea'.J-drefs, he began to dance with a flow motion ; frequently moving his head To as to defcribe a circle with the top of his wicker^cap, and fometimes throwing it fo near the faces of the by-fkanders as to make them jump back ; this they confidered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh, when pradtifed upon any of the Englilh gentlemen. On Saturday the 5th, fome hogs and fowls, and fe- veral large pieces of cloth, many of the'r. being fifty or fixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plan- tains, and cocoa-nuts, were fent to Captain Cook, as a prefent from the Earee Rahie of the ifland of Bolabola, accompanied with a meflage, importing that he was then on the illand, and intended waiting on the captain. On the 6th, the king of Bolabola did not vifit us agreeable to his promife ; his abfence, however, was not in the leaft regretted, as he fent three young women to demand fomething in return for his prefent. After dinner, we fet out to pay the king a vifit on fliore. As this man was the Earee Rahie of the Bolabola man, who had conquered this, and wer^j in dread of all the neigh- bouring illands, we were greatly difappointed, inftead of finding a vigorous, enterprifing young chief, to fee a poor feeble old dotard, half blind, and finking under the weight of age and infirmities. Ho-received us with- out either that ftate or ceremony which we had hitherto met with among other chiefs. On Wednelday the 9th, having flopped a leak, and taken on board a frelh (tock of provifions, we failed out of the harbour : and though we were feveral leagues dif- tant from the illand of Bolabola, Tupia earneftly in- treated Captain Cook, that a (hot might be fired towards it ; which, to gratify him, the captain complied with. It was fuppofed to have been intended by Tupia as a mark of his refentment againd the inhabitants of that ^.9?«»v place. <■."■* 's^^ >..} FIRST VOYAGE. 59 place, as they had formerly taken from him large pof- leflions which he held in the illand of Ulieta, of which ifland Tupia was a native, and a fubordinate chief, but was driven out by thefe warriors. Being detained longer at Ulieta in repairing the fhip than we cxpefted, we did not go on fliore at Bolabola ; but after giving the general name of the Society Iflands, to the iflands of Huahcine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha, and Maurua, which lies between the latitude of i6 deg. 10 min. and i8 deg. 55 min. fouth, we purfued our courfe, {landing foutherly for an ifland, to which we were direded by Tupia, at above 100 leagues diftant. This wedifcovered on the 13th, and were informed by him it was called Obiterea. On the 14th, we flood in for land, and faw feveral of the inhabitants coming along the fliore. One oF the lieutenants was difpatched in the pinnace to found for anchorage, and to obtain what intelligence could be got from the natives concerning any land that might go far* ther to the fouth. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tu- pia, went with the lieutenant in the boat. When they approached the fhore, they obferved that the Indians were armed with long lances. A number of them were foon drawn together on the beach, and two jumped into the water, endeavouring to gain the boat, but flie foon left them, and fome others that had made the Lime at- tempt, far enough behind her. Having doubled the point where they intended to land, they opened a large bay, and faw another party of the natives ftanding at the end of it, armed like thofe whom they had leen before. Preparations were then made for landing, on which a canoe full of Indians made off towards them. . Obferving this, Tupia received orders to acquaint them that the Englifh did not intend to offer them violence, but meant to traffic with them for nails, which were produced. Thus informed, they came along-fide the boat, and took fome nails that were given them, being feeniingly well pleafed with the prefent. Yef, a few mi- nutes after, thefe people boarded the boat, dehgning to drag hpr on Ihore j but fome mufl^ets being diicharged dm. ^^ over /t^ ^P CAPTAIN cook's over their heads, they leaped into t}ie Tea, and. having reached the canoe, put back with all poffible expedition, joining their countrymen vyho ftood ready to receive them. The boat immediately purliied the fugitive, but the crew finding the furi extremely violent, did not ven- ture to land tilt re, but coafled along (here to try if they could not find a more convenient place. Suon after the canoe got on (hore, a m:^n oppofite the boat flourifhed his weapon, calling put at the fame time with a (hi ill voice, which was a mark, of defiance, as Tupia explained it to the Englifli.— Not being able to find a proper landing-place, frhey returned, with an intention to attenipt it where the canoe went on fliore ; whereupon another warrior repeated the defiance : his appearance was more formidable than that of the other. When he thought fit to retire, a grave man came for- ward, who afked Tupia feveral queftions, relating to the place from whence the veffcl came, as vyhp were the per- fons on bo^rd ? vvhither they were bound ? &c. After this, it was propofed that the people in the boat fliould g9 01) (liore and trade with them, if they would lay afide their weapons y but the latter would not agree to this, unlefs tfie Englifli would do the like. As this propofal was by no means an equal one, when it was confidered that the hazard muft, for many reafons, be greater to the boat's crew than the Jndians j and as perfidy was dreaded, it was not complied with. Sefides, fii)cc nei- ther the bay which the Endeavour entered, nor any other part of the ifland, furniflied good harbour or an- chorage, it was relblved not to attempt landirjg any more, but to (ail from hence to the {ouihvyard. On the 15th, we failed from this iflarij with a fine breeze ; but on the 16th it was h^zy, and we bore away for what refembled very high peaks of land. The wea- ther clearing up, we were convinced of our miftake, and refumed our courfe accordingly. Land was difcpvered at weft by north, on the 7th of Odtober, ^nd in the morning of the 8th, we came to an anchor oppofite a fii^all fjiyer, no^ above half a l^gue frpn^ tl^e coaft. ■i FIRST VOYAGE. 61 Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. SoUndcr, and fome other gentiemei), having left the pinpace at the mouth of the^ river, proceeded a little further up, when wc landed, leaving the yawl to the care of fome of our boys, and went up to a few fmall houfes in the neighbourhood. Soine of the natives that had concealed themfelves in the neighbourhood, took advantage of our abfence from the boat, and rullied out, advancing and bran- difliing their long wooden lances. On this, our boy dropped down the dream. The cockfwain of the pin- nace then fired a mufquetoon over their heads, but it did not prevent them from following the boat, in con- fequence of which he levelled his piece, and fliot one of them dead on the fpot. Struck with aflonifhment at the death of their companion, the others remained mo- tionlels for fome time, but as foon as they recovered from their friofht, retreated to the woods with. the ut- moft precipitation. The report of the gun brought the advanced party back to the boat, and both the pinnace and yawl returned immediately to the fliip. On the 9th, a great number of natives were feen near the place vvhere the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the preceding evening, and the greatefl part of thetn appeared to be unaniied. The long-boat, pinnace, and yawl, being manned with marines and failors. Captain Cook and Tupja went on fliore, and landed on the op- pofite fide of the river, over-gainft a fpot where feveral Indians were fitting on the ground. They immediately ilarted up, and began to handle their weapons, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of ilone, with a firing through the handle of it, which they t\yilted round their wrifts. Tupia was di- rected to fpeak to them in his language ; and we were greatly furpriled to find that he was well underftood, the qatives fpeaklpg in his language, though in a diffe- rent dialcdl. Their intentions at firft appeared to be very hoftiie, brandifhing their weapons in the ufual threatening rnanner ; upon which a muiket was fired at fome diftance : the ball happened to fall into the water, at whicl^ ^ley appeared rather terrified, and defilled from 62 CAPTAIN COOJC*S from their menaces. Having now drawn up the ma- rines, we advanced nearer to the fide of the river Tu- pia, again fpeaking, informed them of our defire to traffic with them for provifions : to this they confented, provided we would go over to them to the other fide of the river. The propofal was agreed to, upon condition that the natives would quit their weapons ; but the mod folemn affurances of friendfhip could not prevail with them to make fuch a conceflfion. Not thinking it pru- dent, therefore, to crofs the river, we, in our turn, in- treated the Indians to come over to us, and after fome time prevailed on one of them fo to do. He was pre- fently followed by others. They did not appear to value beads and iron, which we offered in the way of barter, but propofed to exchange their weapons for ours ; which being objected to, they endeavoured to fnatch our arms from us, but being on our guard, from the information given us by Tupia, that they were flill our enemies ; and Tupia, by our diredion, gave them to underftand, that any further offers of violence would be puniftied with inftant death. One of them, neverthelefs, had the audacity to ihatch Mr. Green's dagger when his back was turned to them, and retiring a few paces, ilourifhed it over his head ; but his temerity coft him his life ; for Mr. Monkhoufe fired a muiket, and he in- ftantly dropped. Soon after, though not befCiC we had difcharged our pieces, they retreated llowly up the country, and we returned to our boat. The behaviour of the Indians, added to our want of frefli water, induced Captain Cook to continue his voy- age round the bay, with a hope of getting fome of the natives aboard, that by civil ufage he might convey through them a favourable idea of us to their country- men, and thereby fettle a good correfpondence with them. An event occurred which', though attended with difagreeable circumllances, promifed to facilitate this de- fign. Two canoes appeared, making towards land, and Captain Cook propofed intercepting them with our boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians in the other finding it impoffible to efcape, began to at- *• • ^ack mmmmmmm First voyage. 03 tack our people In the boats with their paddles. This compelled the Endeavour's people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the other three, who were young men, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to Iwim afliore ; they v/ere, however, taken up, and conveyed on board. At fiill they difco- vsied all the iigns of fear and terror, thinking they Ihould be killed j but Tupia, by repeated aiTurances of fricndfliip, rem.oved their apprehenfions, and they after- wards eat heartily of the fliip's provifions. Having re- tired to reft in the evening, they llept very quietly for feme hours, but about midnight their fears returnino^, they appeared in great agitation, frequently making loud and difmal groans. Again the kind carefies and friendly promifes of Tupia operated fo cfFecftually, that they be- came calm, and fung a fong, which at the dead of the night had a pleafing effeft. The next morning, after they were drefled according to the mode of theircoun- try, and were ornamented with necklaces and bracelets, preparations were made for fending them to their coun- trymen, at which they expreffed great fatisfadion ; but finding the boat approaching Captain Cook's firft land- ing-place, they intimated that the inhabitants were foes, and that after killing their enemies, they always eat them. The captain, neverthelels, judged it expedient to land near the famefpot, which he accordingly did, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia; relolving at the fame time to protect the youths from any injury that migl't be offered them. Thefe had fcarcely departed on their return to their friends, when two large parties of Indians advanced haftily towards them, upon which. they again flew to us for protedion. When the Indians drew near, one of the boys difcovcred his uncle amono- them, and a converfation enfued acrofs the river, in which the boy gave a juft account of our hofpitality, and took great pains to difplay his finery. A fhort time after this converfation, the uncle Iwarn acrofs the river, bringing with him a green bough, a token of friendOiip, which we received as fuch, and I'e- veral'prefents were made them. Notwithftanding the pre fence * *i t- • 64 CAPTAIN tOOK*S «; prefence of this relation, all three of the boys, hf thth own defire, rel'urhed to th6 ilii^ ; biit as the captain intended to fail the rtext rhothrng, he fent tiittti afh'ofe iivjthe evening, though much agatirift their ihcfinfation. They informed us of a p'artrcukr kind of deer upo'n the ifland. On the nth, at fix o'clock irt th'e morMng, we weighed and (ct fail, in hop6s of finding a better an- choring place. Captain Cook having given thfe bay th6 name of Poverty Bay. In the jtfterri6on v^e Were be- calmed ; and f^veral canoes full of Irtdians camfc of[ from the fhore, who received many prefents, and afterwjtrds bartered even their clothes, and fome of therr paddles, fo eager were they of European commoditres. The Indians were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and qf the bone of a large animal ; they were contrived for clofe fighting. ' Having finiflied their traffic, they fet 6fFrh fuch a hurry, that they forgot three of their co'hipanions, who remained on board all night. Thefe teftifte'if their fears and apprehenfions, notwithftjrndihg Tiipia: took great pains to convince them they vt^ere in datiger ; and about feven o'clock the next morning, a cartoe came off with four Indians on board. It vCas at firft Witli difficulty the Indians in the fhip could pfeVaii on thofe in the canoe to come near therfi, and not till after the former had alFured them, that the Englifh did nbt eat men. On the 1 2th, feveral Indians came off in ac'an6e, and at times appeared to be peaceably inclined, but at others to menace hoftilities, brandifhing their lances, and other hoftile geftures. A four-pounder loaded with gfape fhot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but n6t' pointed at them. This had the defired efFe<5t, and nlade them dropa-ftern. '^ ' •' ''-^■•'' On Friday the 13th, in the morning, wc" made for an inlet, but finding it not fheltered, flood out again; and were chaced by a canoe filled with Indians, but the En- deavour out-failed them. She purfued her courfe^^rbund the bay, but could not find an opening. Nitie cahdes full T^ 'iT" a^'^^^ FIRST VOYAGE. 6c; full of Indians came from the fliore, and five of thcni, after having confulted together, purfued the Endeavour, apparently with a, hoftile defign. Tupia was defired to acquaint them, that immediate deftruftion would enfue, if they perfevered in their attempts ; but words had no influence, and a four-pounder, with grape-fliot was fired. They were terrified at this fort of reafoning, and went away falter than they came. On the 20th, we anchored in a bay two leagues to the north of the Foreland. To this bay we were invited by the natives in canoes, who behaved very amicably, and pointed to a place where they faid we fliould find plenty of fr^t';. water. We determined here to get fome knowledge . ; country, though the harbour was not fo good a it.c .» from the weather as we cxpeded. Two chiefs, whom we faw in the canoes, came on board ; they were dreffcd in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog-fkins. We prefented to them linen and Ibme Ipike nails, but they did not value the laft fo much as the inhabitants of the other iHands. Towards the evening we went on fliore, accompanied by the captain and Dr. Solander. We were courteoufly received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in nu- merous bodies, and in other infiances were fcrupuloufly attentive not to give offence. We made them feveral hnall prefents, and in this agreeable tour round the bay, we had the pleafure of finding two ftreams of frefh wa- ter. We remained on fliore all night, and the next . day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander difcovered feveral large birds, among which were quails and large pigeons. Many ftages for drying fifh were obferved near where we landed, and fome houfes with fences. We faw dogs with pointed ears, and very ugly. Sweet potatoes, like thofe which grow in America, were found. The cloth plant grows fpontaneous. In the neighbouring vallies the lands were laid out in regular plantations ; and in " the bay we bought plenty of crabs, cray-fifli, and horle- mackarel, larger than thofe on the Englifli coaffs. The Jow lands were planted with cacoes -, the hollows with I gourds > .'..f 1 ^' 66 CAPTAIN COOK S '%. gourds ; but as to the woods, they were almoft inipaf- lable on account of the number of fupple-jacks which grew there. We went into fcveral houfes belonging to the natives, 'and met with a very civil reception j and, without the leaH referve, they (hewed us whatever we (IcTired to fee. At times we found them at their meals, which our prefence never interrupted. At this feafon fini^conflituted their chief food ; with which they eat, inftead of bread, roots of a kind of fearn ; thefe, when roafled upon a fire, are fweet and clammy : in tafte not Oilagreeable, though rather unplcafant, from the number of their fibres. They have doubtlefs in other feafons of the year an abundance of excellent vegetables. The women of this place paint their faces with a mix- ture of red ochre and oil, which, as they are very plain, renders them in appearance more homely. This kind ot' daubing being generally wet upon their cheeks and forelieads, was eafily transferred to thofe who faluted them, as was frequervtly vifible upon the nofes of our people. The young ones, who were complete coquets^ wore a petticoat, under which was a girdle,, made of the blades of grafs ftrongly perfumed, to which was pendant a fmali bunch of leaves^ of fome fragrant plant. The faces of the men were not in general painted ; b'jt they were daubed with dry red ochre from head to foot, their apparel not excepted. Though m pcrfonal cleanlinefs they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, yet in fome particulars they furpafled them : for their dwellings were furnilhed with privies, and they had dunghills upon which their offals and filth were depofited. Among the females chaftity was lightly efteemed. They reforted frequently to the watering-place, where they freely be- ftovved every favour that was requefted. An officer iiiceting with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to lier houfe, and having prefented her with lome cloth and beads, a young girl was fiqgled out, with whom he was given to underlland he might retire. Soon after an elderly man, with two women, came in as vifitors, who with much formality, lalqted the whole company, after the culloui of the place, which is by gently joining the FIRST VOYAGE. 67 tips of their nofes together. On his return, vhich was on Saturday the 21ft, he was furnillied with a guide, who, whei.ever they came to a brook or rivulet, took him on his back, to prevent his being wet. Many of the natives were curioufly tataowed ; an old man in parti- cular, was marked on the breall with curious figares. Thefe Indians at night dance in a very uncouth manner, with antic geftures, lolling out their tongues, and making ftrange grimaces. In their dances, old men as well as the young ones, are capital performers. On the 22d, in the evening, we weighed anchor and put to fea ; but the wind being contrary, we ftood for another bay, a little to the fouth, called by the natives Tolaga, in order to complete our wood and water, and to extend our correfpondence with the natives. We found a watering-place in a fmall cove a little within the fouth point of the bay, which bore fouth by eaft, diftant ^bout a mile. Several canoes with Indians on board, trafficked with us very fairly for glafs bottles. On Monday the 23d, in the afternoon, we went on fhore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the captain. We examined and found the water ex- tremely good ;■ alfo plenty of wood ; and the natives Ihewed us as much civility as thofe from whom we had lately departed. At this watering-place we fcl up an agronomical quadrant, and took feveral folar and lunar obfervations. In our walks through the vales, we favv many houles uninhabited, the natives refiding chiefly in flieds, or the ridges of the hills, which are very fteep. The hills are cloathed with beautiful flowering flirubj, intermixed with a number of tall ftately palms, which perfume the air, making it perfectly odoriferous. We met with various kinds of edible herbage in great abun- dance, and many trees which produced fruit fit to eat. Sweet potatoes and plantains are cultivated near the houfes. . On our return, we met an old man who entertained us with the military exercife of the natives, which arc performed with patoo-patoo and the lance. The ior- mcr has been already mentioned, and is ufed as a battie- 1 2 axe ; 68 CAPTAIN cook's axe the latter is i8 or 20 feet in length, and made of extreme hard wood, and fharpened at each end. A flake was lubflituted for a fuppofed enemy. The old warrior firft attacked him with his lance, advancing with a mod furious afpedl. Having pierced him, the patoo-patoo was ufed to demolifih his head, at which he flruck with a force which would at one blow have fplit any man's ikull ; from Wiience we concluded no quarter was given by thefe people to their foes in time of action. The natives in thefe parts are very numerous. They are tolerably well (haped, but lean and tall. Their faces rel'emble thofe of the Europeans. Their nofes are aqua« line, their eyes dark coloured, their hair black, which is tied up to the top of their heads, and the men's beards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is done very curioufly, in various figures, which makes their fkin refemble carving j it is confined to the prin- ,,.y cipal men, the females and fervants ufing only red paint, with which they daub their faces, which otherwife would not be difagreeable. On the 25th, we fet up e armourers forge on fliore for neceliary ufes, and got our wood and water without the leaft moleflation from the natives, with whom we exchanged glafs bottles and beads for different forts of fifli. ' On the 27th, Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went to infpeift the bay, when the doftor was not a little fur- prifed to find the natives in the poffeffion of a boy's top, which they knew how to fpin by whipping it, and he purchafed it out of curiofity. Mr. Banks was during this employed in attaining the fummit of a Iteep hill, that had previoully engaged their attention, and near it he found many inhabited houfes. When the gentlemen met at the watering-place, the inhabitants lang their war-fong, which was a ftrange medley of (houting and grimace, at which the women affifted. The next day, Captain Cook and other gentlemen went upon the ifland at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was 67 feet in length, fix in breadth, and four in height i her bottom, which was iharp, confiftcd of three FIRST VOYAGE. 69 three trunks of trees, and the fides and head were curi- oully carved. Their huts are built under trees, their form is an ob- long fquare, the door low on the fide, and the windows are in the ends ; reeds covered with thatch, compofe the walls ; the beams of the caves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch; mod of the houfes had been deferted, through fear of the EngliOi, upon their landing. There is a great variety of fifli in the bay, fhell and cray filh are very plentiful, fome of the latter weigh 12 pounds. Sunday, Odober the 29th, we fet fail from this bay. It is fituated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. fouth, four leagues to the north of Gable End Foreland ; there are two high rocks at the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very good for procuring wood and water. This is a very hilly country, though it prefents the eye with aa agreeable verdure, various woods, and many fmali plantations. Mr. Banks found a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown to Europeans ; the fire- wood refembled the maple-tree, and produced a gum of whitiQi colour ; other trees yielded a gum of a deep yel- low green. The only roots were yams and fweet pota- toes, though the foil appears very proper for producing every fpecies of vegetables. On Monday the 30th, failing to the northward, we fell in with a fmall ifland about a mile diftant from the north-eaft point of the main, and this being the moft eallern part of it, the captain named it Eaft Cape, and the illand Eaft Ifland ; it was but fmall, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude 37 deg. 42 min. 30 fee. fouth. Having doubled the cape, many villages pre- fented themfelves to view, and the adjacent land ap- peared cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieu- tenant Hicks dilcovered a bav, to which his name was given. Next morning about nine, feveral canoes came off from the Qiore with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hoftile intentions. Before thefe had reached the fliip, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been feen, full of armed Indians, came off, and k< made ( I 70 CAPTAIN COOKS made towards the Endeavour, with great expedition. The captain now judging it expedient to prevent, IF pol- lible, their attacking hiui, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads. This not producing the dcfired cffed, ano- thergun was fired with balJ, which threw them into fuch conftcrnation, that they .immediately returned fafter than they came. 1' On the ift of November, not lefs than between 40 and 50 canoes were feen, levcral of which came off as before, threatening to attack the Englifli. One of their chiefs flouriilied his pike, and made feveral harangues, lecniing to bid defiance to thofe on board the veflel. At lad, after repeated invitations, they came clofe along lide ; but inftead of fliewing a difpofition to trade, the haranguing chief uttered a ientence, and took up a ftone which he threw againft the fiiip, and immediately after feized their arms. A piece of cloth, however, happen- ing to attract their eyes, they began to be more mild and reafonablc. A quantity of cray-fifli, mufcles, and conger eels was now purchafed. No fraud was attempted by this company of Indians, but fome others that came after them, took goods from the vcflel without making proper returns. Yet, when thefefavagcs began to traf- iick with the failors, they renewed their frauds ; and one of them was bold enough to feize fome linen that was hung to dry, and run away with it. In order to induce hmi to return, a mufket was fired over his head, but this not anfwering the end, he was fliot in the back with imall fliot, yet he fiill perfeveredin his defign. in confequence of their behaviour, though they made no preparations to attack, the veliel, the captain gave orders to fire a foUr-pounder. which pafled over them ; but itsefiedson the water terrified them fo much, that they retreated with precipitation to the fliore. ' In the afternoon, about two o'clock, we difcovered a pretty high ifland to the weft. Some time after, per: ceiving other rocks and iflands in the fame quarter, but not being able to weather them before night came on, we bore up between them and the main land. In the evening, a double canoe, built after the fame faQiion as thofa FIRST VOYAGE. n thofc of Otaheite, came up, when Tupia entered into a friendly converfation wit li the Indians, anti was t(^l '•<"!• The next morning, being the 2d, a number of canoes appealed, and one, which proved to be the fame that pelted us the night before, came up. After converling with Tupia, and behaving peaceably about an hour, they complimented us with another volley of flones. We returned the falute by firing a mufket, which made them inftantly take to their paddles. Between ten and eleven we failed between a low flat ifland and the main land. On the 3d, we paflTed the night near a fmall ifland, which Captain Cook named the Mayor. We now failed towards an inlet that had been difcovered, and having anchored in feven fathom water, the fliip was loon fur- rounded by a number of canoes, and the people 05 board them did not i'eem difpofed for fome time to com- mit any ads of hollility. .-;. . .. ..^. On the 4th, at day break, no Icfs than twelve canoes made their appearance, containing near two hundred men, armed with fpears, lances, and Itones, who feemed determi'cd to attack the (hip, and would have boarded her, had they known on what quarter they could befk have made their attack. While they were paddling round her, which kept the crew upon the watch in the rain, Tupia, at the requeft ot the captain, uled a num- ber of dili'uafive arguments to prevent their carrying their apparent defigns into execution ; but.we could not pacify them by the nre of our mufkets ; they then laid afide their hoLtile inteniions, and began to a\ide ; yet they could not refrain from their fraudulenf: pradtices ; for after they had fairly bartered two of their weapons, they would not deliver up a third, for which they had received cloth, and on' ' laughed at thole who de- manded an equivalent. The offender was wounded with fmall fliot ; but his countrymen took not the lead notice of him, and continued to trade without the leaft difcompofurc. ■ ' ' >■ ' V Ori ^i 7^ CAPTAIN COOK S r :• : On the 5th, in the morning, the Indians came off to the fliip again, who behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. An old man in particular, named Tojava, teftified his prudence and honefty, to whom, and a friend with him, the captain prefented fome nails, and two pieces of Englifli cloth. Tojava informed us that they were often villted by freebooters from the north, who ftripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and at times made captives of their wives and children j and that being ignorant who the Englifh were upon their rirfl arrival, the natives had been much alarmed, but were now fatisfied of their good intentions. On the 8th, we were vifited by feveral canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who, defcrying two canoes, haftened back to the fhore, apprehending they were free- booters ; but finding his millake, he foon returned : and the Indians fupplied us with as much excellent filh as ferved the whole fliip's company. This day a variety of plants were collected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. On the 10th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and tlie captain, went in boats to infpedl a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader ioir.e miles within than at the mouth, and interfered into a number of dreams, by leveral fmall illands, which were covered with trees. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. Great plenty of oyflers were procured from a bed which had been difcovercd, and they proved exceedingly good. On the 1 8th, we (leered between the main and an ifland which feemed very fertile. Several canoes filled with Indians, came along fide, and the Indians fang their war fong ; but the Endeavour's people paying them no attention, they threw a vuliey of (tones ; and then paddled away ; however, they prefently returned heir infults. Tupia fpoke to them, making ufe of his '>ld arguments, that inevitable deftrudlion would enfue if they perfifted ; they anfwered by brandifhing their wea- pons, intimating, that if the Englifh durd come afliore, they would deftroy them all. Tupia (lill continued in RiWP mem'' FIRST VOYAGE. 73 in cxpoftulating with them, but to no purpofc ;- and they ibon gave anothe. volley of ftoncs ; but upon a muilcet being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat. We caft anchor in 23 fathom water in the evening, and early the next morning failed up an inlet. ' On the i:2d, early in the morning, we made fail, and kept plyiug till the flood obliged us once more to come to an anchor. The captain and Dr. Solandcr went on lliore to the weft, but made no obfervations worth relating. After the gentlemen departed, the lliip was furrounded with canoes, which kept Mr. Banks on board, that he might trade with the Indi- ans, who bartered their arms anij cloaths for paper, taking no unfair advantages. But though they Vv'crc in general honed in their dealings, one of them took a fancv to a half minute glafs, and being detected in fecreting tlie fame, it was refolved to give him a fmatch of the cat-o'-nine-tails. The Indians inter- fered to ftop the current ot jufticc, but being oppofed, they got their arms from the canoes, and fomeof the ])eople in them attem[)ted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians ap- plied to Tupia, who informed them of the nature of the offender's intended punilliment, and that he had no influence over Mr. Hicks, the commanding otHcer. They appeared pacified, and the criminal received not only a dozen, but afterwards a good drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be his father. The canoes immediately went ol^^^, the Indians faying, they fliould be afra'd to return again on board. On the 23d, the weather llill continuing unfa- vourable, and the wind contrary, we kept plying down the river^ anchoring between the tides, and at the north weft extremity of the Thames. Not being able to approach land, we had but a diftant view of the main, for a courfe of near thirty miles. The tountry feemed to be thinly inhabited ; the natives iire Weil made, ftrong, and active ; their bodies are 4 . K painted 74 CAPTAIN COOK S paiiitcd with red ochre, and their canoes, whicli arc well conftrucled, were ornamented with carved work. Oil tlie 27th, we found ourfelves within a mile of nianv fmall iflands, iavinjr clofe under the main, at t.'ie diilancc of twent)'-t\\o miles from Cape Brett. I^ere we lay about tvvo hours, during which time fcvcral canocr, came off' from the iflands, which we called CavalleSy tiie name of fome fifli which we pur- cliafed n[ none killed : |)eace being thus ;cllored, the gentlemen began to ga^her celery and iher herbs ; but fufpeibf ing fome of the natives were irking about with evil defigns, they rep.iired lo a ;ivc at fome fmall diitance. Here they found the chief, who had that .day received a prefent from the ntain ; he came forth w ith liis wife and brother, ' folicited tlieir clemency. In the afternoon, tlie Knglilli rowed to another irt of the illand. when landin«x, and "ainins" an nu: ninencc, they had a vry agreeable and romai itnv of a great number of fmall iilands, well inha- ited and cultivated. On the 1.5th of December, in the mornii t)' we .eighed anchor, but v/ere foon becalmed, and a [rong current fetting towards the ihore, we were riven in with fuch rapidity, that we cxpecled every K2 ino iiu nt :« 76 CAPTAIN COOK S moment to be run upon the breakers, which appeared above water, not more than a cable's length diftan^ce ; and we were fo near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a converfation with the Indians, who were ftanding on the beach. We were happily relieved from this alarming fitua- tion by a frelli breeze fuddenly fpringing up from the fliore. On the 25th, we ftood to the fouthward, but had no land in light, and were twenty leagues to the weftward of North Cape. At mid-night it blew a ftorm from the eafi:, accompanied with heavy fliowers of rain, which compelled us to bring the fliip to, un- der her main-fiiil. The gale continued till Thurfday the 28th, when it fell about two o'clock in the morn- ing ; but at eight increafed to a hurricane, with a prodigious fea. At noon the gale fomewhat abated, b'l had ilill heavy fqualls. On the 29th, we wore, and itood to the north-weft. On the 31 ft, we tacked, and ftood to the weftward. We were now to the neareft land about three leagues, and had fomewhat more than forty fathom water. CHAP. VII. The Endeavour continues her voyage to Qiijcen Char- lotte's Sound — Tranfactions in tiie Soiind-—AJhock- ing ciijiom of the inhabitants — The coajt of Adniiraltxj. Bajj dcj'crit)cd — 'J he departure of the Endeavour from New Zealand, and other parlieulars — An ac- count ofNeic- Zealand, tlie inhabitants, and cujloms. ANUARY the ift, 1770, we tacked and ftood to _ the eaftward : at noon, we ftood to the welt- ward ; found our lat. to be 34 deg. 37 min. fouth ; our diftance from the Three Kings ten or eleven leagues. On the 3d, we faw land , it was high and fiat beyond ihe reach of the naked eye. ■ « . On the morning of the 4th, we ftood along ftiorc, The coaft appeared fandy, barren, and inhofpitable. ■ titeering FIRST VOYAGE. 77 Steering northward, on x\,?, 6th wc faw land again, which wc fupj)orcd to be Cape Maria. We continued fteering call till the yth, when we were ofFa point of land which Captain Cook named Woody Head. On the., 15th, we fleered for an inlet, it being al- moft calm, the fliip was carried by a current within a cabl<"'s length of the Ihore ; but by the airiftance of the boats flie got clear. At three, we anchored in a, very fafe cove on the north-welt lide of the bay, and unmoored in eleven fathom w^ater. In palling the point of the bay, we obferved an armed centinel on duty, who was twice relieved ; and now four canoes came off, for the purpofe, as we imagined, of recon- noitring ; for none of the Indians would venture on board, except an old man who feemcd of elevated rank. His countrymen expoftulated wdth him, laid hold of him, and took great pains to prevent his coming aboard, but they could not divert him from his purpofe. We received him with the utmoft ci- vility. Tupia and the old man joined nofes, accord- ing to the cuflom of the country, and having received feveral prefents, he retired to his aflbciates, who be- gan to dance and laugh. Whether their expreflions of joy were tokens of enmity or friendlhip, we could not determine. Captain Cook and other gentlemen went on Ihore, w"here they met with a fine flream of excellent water. On the 16th, three canoes canie off with a num- ber of [ndians, who brought feveral of their women with them, which circumflancc was thought to be a favourable prefage of their peaceable difpolition ; but they foon convinced us of our miffake, by attempt- ing to ftop our long boat ; upon which Captain Cook had r; ourfe to the old ex{)edicnt of firing (hot over their heads, which intimidated them for the i)refent: they foots gave frelh proofs of their treacherous de- ^igiis, for one of them fnatched at fome paper from our market-man, and milling it, put himlrlf in a threa^jning attitude ; whereupon fonu (hot was fired, which wounded him in the knee ; but Tupia ftill continued 'i$ CAPTAIN cook's continued converfing with his compani. .»?, making- enquiries concerning their traditions refpetting the antiquities of their country. He ahb alked them if they had ever feen a lliip fo large as the Endeavour ? they replied they had not, nor never heard that fuch a veflel had been on their coaft. The women, who accompanied the men in their canoes, wore a head-drcfs ; it was compofed of black, feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increafed their height. The captain, Mr. Banks, and the doctor, vifited a cove about a mile from the Ihip. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of thefe gentlemen, all running away except one j but upon Tupia's converling with him, the others returned. They found by the provifions of this family, that they were cannibals, there being feveral human bones that had been lately drefled and picked, and it appeared that a fliort time before, lix of their' enemies having fallen into their hands, they killed four, and eat them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavourin,'>: to make their elcape. On the 29th, w^e were vifited by Topoa, in com- pany with other Indians, who behaved very civilly. During tlie time the bark was preparing for lea, jV'lr. Banks and Dr. Solander often went on Ihore. Capt. Cook alfo made feveral obfervations on the coali" to the north-weli, and perceived many iflaiuis, forming bays, in which there appeared good anchorage for J]]i}>ping. Returning to the Ibip, he met with many of the natives, ot whom he purchafed a fmall quan- tity of filh. On the SOtli, fome of our people, who were fei.t out early in the morning to gather celery, met witli about tw^enty Indians, among whom were five or lix w^omen, whofe huibands had lately been made cap- tives. They fat down upon the ground together, and cut many parts of their bodies in a molt lliocking manner, with Ihells, in telHmony of their excellivc grief. But wliat made the horrid fpe^lacle more ter- rible, FIRST VOYAGE. 79 rlble, was, that the male Indians who were with them, paid not the leait attention to it, but with the Teeth and green ftones decorated his ears, and we concluded from his deportment, that he was a perfon of diftinguiihed rank, and thefe people with- drew highly fatisftcd with the prefents that they had received. On the 9th of April, we difcovered an ifland called Eahienomauwee. About fixty Indians, in double canoes, came within a fl:one 'S throw of the fliip on the 14th. As they furveyed her with fur- pViZCj imi FIRST VOYAGE. 81 Tupia end?avoure'-l to perfuade them to come nearer, but tliis they cou d not be prevailed on to do. On this account, tlie illand was denominated the illand of Luokcr's-on. On the 4th of March, fevcral whales and feais were' fcen ; and on t!ic 9tli, we law a ledge of rocks, and foon after another ledge at three leagues diHiance from the fliore, which we paffcd in t!ie night to the north- ward, and at day-break obierved the others under our bows, which was a fortunate efcape ^ and in confidera- tion of their having been fo nearly caught among thefe, they were denominated the Traps. On the 16th, we paffed a point vhich confifled of high red cliffs, and receivefl the name of Cafcade Point, on account of feveral fruall flreams whicli fell down it. In the morning of the iStli, the vallics were obferved covered with fnow, as well as the mountains, which f.^emcd to have fallen the night before, when we had rain at fea. Thus we pafTed the whole nortl'-weft coalt of Tovy Poenamoo, which had nothing worthy ourob- fervation but of naked and barren rocks covered with Ihow, fome of which we conjedured might liave re- mained there fince the creation. From this uncom- fortable country we determined to depart, having failed round the whole country by the 27th of this month. And it was now refolved by a council of war to fleer foi the coaft of New Holland, in the courfe of their return by the way of the IL:\i\ Indies. On the 3ifl:, we took our departure from an eadcrn point of land, to which we gave the name of Cape Fare- wel, caJhng the bay out of which we failed. Admiralty Bay. We called a bay between the ifland and Cape i'arcwe), Blind Bay, which was fuppofed to have been the fame tiiat was called Murderer's Bay, by I'afman, the firfc dilcoverer of New Zealand ; but tliough he named it Staten illand, thinking to take poffefTion of it., yet, bemg attacked by the Indians, he never went on (hare to ciFecl his purpofe. This coaft, now more accurately examined, is difcovercd to confiil of two iflands. 4 '- '^ L They 82 C A T' T A 1 y COOKS 1 Hral 1 hhI 1 Hi V WWiBMBg! / ■ 4 IMmI; They are fituated between the 34th and 35th c\c)^. of fouth latitude, and b..'tween 181 dcg. and i94deg. weft longitude. The northern ifland is called Eahieno- mauwce, and the fouthern is named Tovy Poenamoo by the natives. The former, though mountainous in fome places, is flored with wood, and in every valley there is a rivulet. The foil in thofe vallies is light, but fertile and well adajUed for the plentiful produdions of all the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe. Tovy Poenamoo is birren and mountainous, and appearecl to be almoft deftitute of inhabitants. In New Zealand is only one Hirub or tree, which pro- duces fruit, which is a kind of berry almoft taftelefs ; but they have a plant which anfwers all the ufes of hemp and flax. This plant is found both in high and low grounds, in dry mould,, and deep bogs ; but as it grows largeft.in the latter, that feems to be its proper foil. The natives are as large as the largeft Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more fo than that of a SpaniarcJ. The women poflcfs not that delicacy which diftinguidies the European ladies -, but their voice diftinguiflies them from the men. The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modeft and referved in their behaviour and converfation as the po- liteft nations of Europe. The women, indeed, were not dead to the fofteft impreffions i but their mode of confent was in their idea as harmlefs as the confent to marriage with us, and equally binding to the ftipulated time. If any of the Englifh addrelFed one of their wo- men, he was informed,, that the confent of her friends muft be obtained, which ufually followed on his making a prefent. This done, he was obliged to treat his tem- porary wife as delicately as we do- in England. • ;. A gentleman who tailed in the Endeavour, having addrelled a family of rank, received an anfwer, of which the following is an exadt tranflation : ** Any of thefe young ladies will think themfelves honoured by your ad- dreflcs,. but you muft firft make me a prefent, and you muft then come and fleep with us on ftiore^ for day- lioht » ' ^ ..i •>-. I.! ' -^ -:^ i-. ^ 'FIRST VOYAGE. m light mufl by no means he a witnefs of what pafles be- tween yc>u." Their (Irefs i formed of the kr;^s of tl.-- flag, fplit into {\\\)Sj which arc infrrwovcn and iu!e into a kirid of matting, the eiids, 9»hich are fevt/i or eiglit inches in length, liar, rjng -ut on the u^.^-er (ide. One piece of this mattii ^'^ b^ing ti.d "r. [V >!> ^. -^1 ^. \ ^ Sf 6^ 84 CAPTAIN C06'k*S tools till they are blunted, and then throw them away, having no inftrumcnt to lliarpen them with. "-'' ' Their tillage is excellent, owing to the ncc^fllty they are under of cultivating, or running the rifque of ftarv- ing. At Tegadoo tb.eir crops were juft put into the ground, and the furfaceof the field was as fniooth as a garden ; the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow ftake, fliarpened to an edge at bottom, v;ith a piece fixed acrofs a little above it, for the convenience of driv- ing it into the ground with the foot, fupplies both the place of'plough and fpade. The foil being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this inltrument alone they will turn up ground of fix or fevcn acres in extent. "fcil";^"" ->• ,vj«iii-,rt^..«ijrr*s.i'i» • Their warlike weapons are fpears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. Whether they fight in boats or on flipre, the battle is hand to hand, fo that they mud make bloody work of it. They trufl chiefly in the ■ p^too-patoo, which is faftened to th.eir vvrills, by means of a fl;rong ftrap, that it may not be wreited out of their hands. They have a kind of a (tafFof diflindion, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is formed of a whale's rib, quite white, and adorned with carving, _, leathers, and the hair of dogs. As to the religion of tliefe peo])le, they acknowledge one Supreme Being, and feveral fubordinaie deities. Their mode of worQiip we could not learn, nor was any place proper for that purpofe feen. There was indeed a fmall fquare area, encompafled with ftones, in the middle of which l:ung a bafket of fern roots on one ot" their fpadcs. This they faid was an offering to their gods, to obtain from them a plentiful crop of provifions. They gave the (iime account of the origin of the world, and the produftion of mankind, as our friends in Ota- heite. Tupia, however, Teemed to have much more deep and extenfive knowledge of thefe fubjedls than any of the people of this ifland ; and when he fbmetimes de- livered a long difcourfe, he was fure of a numerous au- dience, FIRST VOYAGE. 85 I acres in cVience, who heard him with remarkable reverence and attention. Witli rcgLird to tlv: manner of dirj)ofing of their c]t:n}, wc could form no certain oj)inion. The Ibuthern didridt faid, they dilpofed of their dead, by throwing them into the fea. We favv, lunvever, not the lead: (ign of any grave or monument ; h , , (1 ^^i' ^'\0 'iiUi -^'H %) .'AW'.':.\:.,:,^. .. CHAP. CAPTAIN COOK. S CHAP. \\U. r ^qfjape. from Xetv Zealand (o Botamj Bai/, in Xeiv JloUand'—Various incidoifs related- -A dcfcription vf the count rji audits inhabitants — Sails from Bota- vy Bail tn Triu'tij Bay- -Her dangerous fLtualion in her puj age from Trinity Bay to Endeavour River. ^N the 31 ft of March, 1770, we failed from Cape Farcwcl, having tine wtafher, and a fair wind. 1 his cap/e lies in lat. 40 dcg. 33 min. S.and in i^b dcg. W. longitude. We ilcercd wcfi: with a frefli gale till the 2d of Ajiril, when, by obfervation, we found our latitude tD be 40 deg. and our longitude from Cape Farewel 2 deg. 31 min. W. On the 17th, we had frelh gales, with fqualls, and dark weather in the morn- ing ; and in the afternoon a hard gale and a great fea, which obliged us to run undex our fore-1'aii and mizen ► ^11 night. ' On the 18th, in the morning, we were vifited by a pintado bird, an infallible fign that land was near, which we difcovered at lix o'clock in the morning of the 19th, four or five leagues diilant. To the fouthermoft point in li^ht, we gave the niimz of Point Hicks. On the following day we had a diilant view of the country, which was in general covered with wood, and interfperfed with fcvcral Imali lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as linoke was fcen in ieveral places. On the 2 2d, we were fo near the lliore, as to lee feveral of the inhabi- tants on ti:ie coafl, who were of a dark complexion, if lint perfcft negroes. The irces on this illand were both tall and large, but we faw no place fit to give (lielter, even for a beat. On the 27th, wc faw feveral of the inhabitants walk- ing along the Ihore, four of them carrying a canoe on their jliouldcrs, but as they did not attempt to come off ro the (Lip, the captain took Meflrs. Banks aftd Solan- der, and Tupia, in the yawl, to that part of the Qiore "A'hcre they faw the native?, near which four canoes lay dole FIRST VOYAGE. 8T dofc in land. The Indians fat on the rocks till the yawl was a quarter of a mile from the fliore, and then they ran away into the woods. The furl beating vio- lently on the beach, prevented the boat from landing ; the gentlemen were therefore obliged to make what ob- icrvations they could at a diflance. They faw a great number of cabbage trees on Ihore. At five in the evening, they returned to the fliip, and a li^^ht breeze fpringing up, we failed to the northward, wliere we difcovered leveral people on (hore, who, on our approach, retired to an eminence, loon after which two canoes arrived on the fliore, and four men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been fent a-hcad to found, arrived near the f|)ot where the Indians had (lationed themfelves, on which one of them hid himfelf among the rocks, near the landing place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace keeping along Ihore, the Indians walked near in a line with her ; they were armed with long pikes, and, by various figns and words, invited the boat's crew to land. The Ihip having come to an anchor, we obferved a few huts, in which were fome of the natives. We andiored oppofite a village of about eight houles, and obferved an old woman and three children come out of a wood ; they were met by three fmaller ones, all of whom, as well as the woman, were quite naked. Having formed a dehgn of landing, we manned the boats, and took Tupia with us, but had no fooner come near the (hore, than two men advanced, as if to difpute our fetting foot o-^. land. They were each of them armed with different kinds of weapons. They called out aloud, warra warra wai ! the meaning of it: Tupia did not underftand. The captain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and leemed pleafed with. He then made lignals that he wanted water, and uied every poflible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They made ligns to the boat's crew to land, on which Vv'e put the boat in, but had no fooner done fo, than the two Indians cam.c again to oppofe us. A mufket was filed between them, ou 88 CAPTAIN COOK S on the report of which, one o[ them dropped a bundltf of hincL,.s, whicli he imniediatcly Inatched up again in great halle. One ot thcni tlirevv a llonc at the boat, on which the captain ordered a mulkct loaded with Imall (hot, to be fire', which wounding the ekleft of them in the legs, he retired haflily to one of the huts that flood at fome little ditlance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received, would put an end to the contcft. In this, however, we were miilaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of flueld, with two holes in it to fee through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both difcharged their lances, but did not wound any of us. Another mufket was fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. We now went up to the huts, in one of which we founc] the children, who had fecrcted themfelves behind ibme bark. We looked at them, but left them without its being known we had feen them, and having thrown leveral pieces of cloth, ribbands, beads, and other things, into the hut, we took feveral of their lances, and then re-embarked in the boat. We now failed to the north point of the bay, and found plenty of frefh water. On taking a view of the hut where we had leen the children, we had the riiortifi- cation to find that every Indian had fled, and that they had left all their prefents behind them. The captain now went in the pinnace to infped the bay, ancl faw feveral of the natives, who all lied as he approached them. Some of the men having been lent to get wood and water, they no fooner went on board to dinner, than the natives came down to the [dace, and examined the ca/kswith great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When tlie people were on Hiore in the afternoon, about twenty oi the natives, all armed, advanced within a trilling diitance of them, and then ftoppcd, while two of their number approached ftill nearer Mr. Hicks, the commanding oilicer on fhore, went towards them, with p:c;i;;:U ir. his hands, and endeavoured, by every poflible FIRST VOYAGE. 89 pbflible tneans, to afTure them of his friendly intentions, but to no purpofe, for they retired before he came up to them. On the 30th, the natives came down to the huts before it was light, and were repeatedly heard to fliout very loud, and foon after day-break they were feen on the beach, but quickly retired about a mile, and kindled feveral fires in the woods. This day fome of the Ihip's crew being employed in cutting grafs at a diftance from the main body, while the natives purfued them, but (lop- ping within fifty or fixty yards of them, they fhouted feveral times, and retreated to the woods. In the even- ing they behaved exactly in the fame manner, wher the captain followed them alone and unarmed, for lome time, but they ftill retired as he approached. On May the ift, the fouth point of the bay was named Sutherland Point, one of the feamen of the name of Sutherland, having died that day, was buried on fliore J ard more prclents were left in the huts, fuch as looking-glafles, combs, &c. but the former ones had not been taken away. Making an excurlion about the country, we found it agreeably variegated with wood and lawn. The country might be cultivated without cutting down one of them. The grafs grows in large tufts, almoft clofe to each other. In this excurfion, we met with many places where the inhabitants had flept without (helter, and one man, who ran away, the mo- ment he beheld us. More prefents were left in their huts, and at theirlleeping places, in hopes of producing a friendly intercourfe. We faw the dung of an animal which feeds on grafs, and traced the foot-fleps of ano- ther, which had claws like a dog, and was about the fize of a wolf: alfo the track of a fmall animal, whofe foot was like that of a pole. The woods abound with a vafc variety of beautiful birds, among which were cockatoos, and parroquets, which flew in large flocks. The fecond lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat in order to drudge for oyfters, faw fo'Tie Indians, who made figns for him to come on Ihore, which he declined : having finiflied 4 :?, M his CAPTAIN COOK S ft- his bufincfs, lie fent the boat away, and werr-t by lancf {«■;. with a midfliipman, to join the party tli^t was getting water. In their way, they met with more than twenty of the natives, who followed them fo clofe as to come within a few yards of them j Mr. Gore (lopped, and faced them, on which the Indians llo|)[)cd al'.b ; and when lie proceeded again, they followed him ; but they did not attack him, though they had each man a lance. The Indians coming in fight of the water cafks, ftood at thediftance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his companions reached their Ihipmates in lafety. Three of the waterers now advanced towards the Indians, but obferving they did not retire, they very impru- dently turned about, and retreated haftily : this appa- rent fign .of cowardice infpired the lavages, who dif- chargcd four of their lances at the fugitives, which fly- ing beyond them, they efcaped unhurt. At this inftant the captain came up with McfTrs. B . ■ »- • •.. i. On the 29th, we flood between the range of almoft barren iflands and the main land, which appeared moun- tainous. We had here very fliallow water, and anchored in fixteen feet, which was not more than the fhip drew, Mr. Banks tried to filh from the cabjn windows, but the water was too Ihallow. The ground indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily feized the bait, and held it till they were above water. Thefe crabs were of two kindr, one of a very fine blue, with a white belly, and the other marked with blue on the joints, and three bjown fpots on the back. On June the ifl, we got under fail, and our lat. by obfervation was 21 deg. 29 min. fouth. We had quite opened the weftern inlet, which we have diflinguifhed by the name of Bread Sound. At eight in the evening we anchored in eleven fathom, with a fandy bottom, about two leagues from the main land. ' , On FIRST VOYAGE. 93 On the 2d, we got under fail, and difcovered a point of land, which we called Cape Conway. The land about Cape Conway forms a molt beaut i fu Ma ndfcape, being diverfified with hills and dales. By the help of our glalll's, wc dilcovered two men and a woman on the illand, and a canoe, with an outrigger like thofe of Otaheite. On the 8th, we ftood away for the northcrmofl: point in fight, to which we gave the name of Point Hillock.. At lix in the evening we were a-breaft of a point of land, which we named Cape Sandwich. We now ranged northward along the (horc, towards a clufter of iilands, on one of which was 40 or 50 men, women, and chil- dren, (landing together, all llark naked, and looking at the (hip with a curiofity never oblerved among thefe people before. At noon, ourlat. by obfervation, was 17 deg. 59 min. and we were a-breaft of the north point of Rockingham Bay. This boundary of the bay is formed by an ifland of tonfiderabie height, which we diftin- guiflied by the name of Dunk ifle. Sunday the 10th, was remarkable for the dangerous fituation of the Endeavour. As no accident remarkably unfortunate had befallen us, during a navigation of more than 1300 miles, upon a coaft every where abounding, with the moft dangerous rocks and flioals, no name ol diftrefs had hitherto been given to any cape or point of land which we had feen. But we now gave the name of Cape Tribulation, to a point we had juft feen fartheft to the northward, becaufe here we became acquainted with misfortune. The cape lies in latitude 16 deg. 6 min. S. and 214 deg. 31 min. W. longitude. At fix in the evening we Ihortencd lail, and hauled off clofe upon a wind, to avoid the danger of fome rocks which were feen a-head, and to obferve whether there were any illands in the offing, as we were near the lat. of thofe iflands faid to have been difcovered by O^iros. We had got into 21 fathom water, when fuddenly we fell into 12, 10, and 8 fathom, in a few minutes. Every man was inftantly ordered to his ftation, and wcie ypon the point of anchoring, when on a fuddeii, ,^^-:.: " ^ wc 94 CAPTAIN cook's V!e had again deep water, (o that we tliought all clanger at an end, concluding that we had failed over the tail of fonie fboals. Wc had 21 fathoms and upwards be- fore ten o'clock, and this depth continuing Tome time, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been uj)on duty, re- tired to red ; but in lefs than an hour, the witer (bal- lowed at once from 20 to i 7 laihonis, and before found- ings could be taken, the (lii[) ftruck upon a rock, and remained immovable. Every one was inflanliy on deck, with countenances fully exprcffjve of the horrors of our lltuation. Knowing we were not near the Ihore, con- cluded that we were upon a rock of coral, the points of which are fliarp, and the lurface fo rough, as u. grind away whatever it rubbed againll, even with the gentleft motion. All the fails being im;nediatciy taken in, and our boats hoitled out, we iouncl that the fhip had been lifted over the ledge of a rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding the water was deeped a-liern, we carried out die anchor from the flarboard quarter, and applied our wht)le force to the capltan, in hopes to get the veflelofT, but in vain. iShe beat fo violently againll the rock, that the crew could fcarcely ftand on their Jegs. Our belt chance of efcaping feemed now to be by lightening her ; but having llruck at high water, we ihould have been in our prefent fituation after the veflel f}]duld draw as much Ids water as the water had funk ; our anxiety abated a little, on finding that the fliip fet- tled on the iocks as the tide ebbed, and we flattered our- i'elves, that if thelhip fliould keep together till the next tide, we might have fome chance of floating her. We therefore inflantly ftarted the water in the hold, and pumped it up. The decayed llores, oiljars, caiks, bal- laft, fix guns, and other things, were thrown overboard, in order to get at the heavier articles; and in this bufi- nefs wc were employed till day-break, during which time not an oath was fworn, fo much were the minds of the failors imprefled with a fenfe of their danger. On the nth, at day-light, we faw land at eight leagues diftance, but not a tingle iiland between us and the main, on which part of the crew might have been landed, U FIRST VOYAGE. 95 JAndcd, while the boat went on (horc with the rcfl ; io that the (lellruflion ot the greater part of us would have hfcii inevitable hr.i the (hip gone to pieces. As we ex- peclcd high water about elev ; o'clock, everything was prepared to make anotlicr effort to free the (hip, but the tide fell fo much (hort of that in the night, that (lie did not float by 18 inches, though we had thrown over- board ^o tons weight : we therefore renewed our toil, and threw overboard every thing that could poflibly be I'pared ; as the tide fell, the water poured in lb rapidly, that we could (carce keep her free by the conftant work- ing of two pumps. Our only hope depended on the mid- night tide, and preparations we/e accordingly made for another effort to get the (hip off. The ." ie began to rile at five o'clock, when the leak likewife ..icreafecl to fuch a degree, that two pumps more wcic manned, but only one of them would work ; three, therefore, kei)t going till nine o'clock, at which time the fhip righted ; but fo much water h.ad been admitted by the jcak, that we expeded (he would fink as loon as the water fhould bear her ofTthe rock. Our fituation was deplorable beyond delcription, almoft all hope being at an end. We knew that when the fatal moment fhould .irrive, all authority would he at an end. The boats were incapable of conveying all on ihore, and dreaded a conted for the preference as more (hocking than the Ihipvvreck itfelf : yet it was c-onfidered, that thole who might be left on board, would eventually meet with a wilder fate than thofe who, by gaining the fliore, would have no chance but to linger out the remains of life among the rudefl favages in the univerfc, and in a coun- try where fire-arms would barely enable them to fupport themlelves in a moll wretched fituation. At ten minutes after ten the fliip floated, and was heaved into deep water, when wc were happy to f)nd that (he did not admit more water than flie had done before : yet, as the leak had for a confiderable time gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the hold. By this time, the men were fo vyorn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of them • / • could 96 fcAPTAiN cook's could pum|i above nve or fix minutes at a time, dnd then threw themlelves, quite fpent, on the deck, amidft a ftrcam of water which came from the pumps. Be- tween the iniide Hning of the (hip's bottom, and the outfide planking, there is a fpace of about 17 inches. The man whr-> had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the cieline, but being now relieved by another perfon, who took the depth of the outfide plank, it appeared by this millake, that the leak had fuddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference between the two planks. This cir* cumftance deprived us of all hopes, and fcarce any one thought it worth while to labour : but the miftake was foon difcovered ; and the joy arifing from fuch unex- pected good news, infpired the men with fo much vi- gour, that before eight in the morning, they had pumped out conliderably more water than they had Ihipped. We now talked of nothing but getting the Ihip into fome harbour, and fet heartily to work to get in the anchors ; one of which, and ihe cable of another, we loft ; but thefc were now confidered as trifles. Having a good breeze from fea, we got under fail at eleven o'clock, and fleered for land. As we could not difcover the exadt fituation of the leak, we had no profped of flopping it within fide of the veflel ; but on the i2thy the following expedient, which one of the midfliipmen had formerly feen tried with fuccefs, was adopted. We took an old ftudding fail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakum and wool, chopped imall, it was ititched down in handfuls on the fail, as lightly as pof- fible, the dung of Iheep, and other filth being fpread over it. Thus prepared, the fail was hauled under the fliip, by ropes, which kept it extended till it came un- der the leak, when the fudion carried in the oakum and wool from the furfaceof the fail. This experiment fuc- ceeded fo well, that inftead of three pumps, the water was eallly kept under with one. We had hitherto no farther view than to run the fliipinto fome harbour, and build a veffel from her ma- terials, in which we might reach the Eail Indies j but wc f;irst voyage. 97 we now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and then purfued her voyage on its original plan. At fix in the evening, we anchored feven leagues from the fliore, and found that the lliip made 15 inches water an hour during the night ; but as the pumps could clear this quantity, we were not uneafy. In the morning we pafl'ed two iflands, and called them Hope Iflands, becaufe the reaching of them had been the obje6t of our wiflies. In the af- ternoon, the matter was fent out in a boat, to found and fcarch for a harbour where the fliip might be re- paired, and we anchored at fun-fet, in four fathoms water, three miles from the fliore. One of the mates being fent out in the pinnace, returned at nine o'clock, reporting, that he had found fuch a harbour as was wanted, at the diftance of two leagues. On the 13th, at fix o'clock, we failed, having pre- vioufly fent the boat a-head to point out the Ihoals that we faw in our way. We foon anchored about a mile from the fliore, when the captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour bet- ter adapted to our prefcnt purpofe, than any place we had feen in the courfe of the voyage. As it blew very frefli this day, we could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor the two fuc- ceeding days, in the courfe of which we obferved four Indians on the hills, who fl:opped and made three fires. Our mqn, by this time, began to be afflicted with the fcurvy ; and our Indian friend Tupia, was fo ilf with it, that he had livid fpots on both legs. The wind continued frefli till the 1 7th, and then we re- folved to pufli in for the harbour, and twice ran the fliip aground ; the [i:;cond time flie fl:uck faft^, on which we ook down the booms, fore-vard, and fore-top mafts, and made a raft on the fide of the fliip ; and as the tide happened to be rifing, flie floated at one o'clock. We foon got her into the harbour, where flie was moored along the fide of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immediately taken out of her. 5 V * N CHAP. 08 CAPTAIN COOK S CHAP. IX. Thcjlup refitted — Tranfactions during that time — The conntrv and its inhabitants dej'crihed — The range from Endeavour River to the extremity of the coun- try — The Endeavour departs from South Wa^les — > That country and people dejcribed. ON the 18th, in the morning, we ere£led a tent for the lick, who were brought on fliore asfoon as it was ready for their reception. We like wife built a flage from the fliip to the Ihore, and fet up a tent to hold the provilions and llores that were landed the fame day. The boat was now difpatched in fearch of fifh for the refrelTiment of the fick, but ilie returned without getting any ; but Tupia em- ployed himfelf in angh'ng, and lived entirely upon what he caught, and recovered his health very faft. On the 19th, the fmith's forge was fet up, and tlie armourer prepared theneceffary iron-work for the repair of the veflel. The officers' ilores, ballaft, \va- ter, &:c. were likewife ordered out, in order to lighten the ihip. On the 20ih, as we were removing the coalSj the wat.^r ruflied in, nenr the foremaft, about three feet from the keel ; fo that it was refolved to clear thu hold entirely ; which being done on the 23d, we warped the fliip higher up the harbour, to a llation more proper for laying her afliore, in order to llop the leak. Early in the morning, the tide having left her, we proceeded to examine the leak, when it appeared tliat the rocks had cut through four planks into the limbers, and that three other j)Ianks were damaged, In thefe breaches not a fplintev was to be feen, the whole being fmooth as if cut away by an inftrument : but it was the will of an Omnipotent Being, that the veiTel ihould be preferved by a very lingular circum- flance : for though -One of the holes was large enough to have funk her, even witl;j eight puri'ips conftanny '^ ■' ■ • at FIRST VOYAGE. 99 at work, yet this inlet to our dellruclion was partly ftoppcd up, by a fragment of the rock being left flicking therein. Wc likewifc found fomc pieces of oakum, wood, Sic. had got between the timbers, and ftoppcd thofe parts of ihe leak that the ftone had left open. Exclulive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the Ihip's bottom. While the fmiths were employed in making nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work on the veffel j and feme of the people were fent on the other fide of the river to flioot birds for the fick. They found a ftreani of frefli water, and feveral of the inhabitants of the ifland. On the 24th, Mr. Gore and a party of men that fet out with him, procpred a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refrelh- ment of the fick : the repairs of the fhip on the ftar- board fide having been finilhed the preceding day, the carpenters now began to work under her larboard bow ; and being examined abaft, it appeared flie had received very little injury in that quarter. On th* 26th, the carpenter was engaged in caulking the ihin, and the men in other neceifary bufinefs ; and on the 27th, the armourer continued to work at the forge, and the carpenter on the fliip, while the cap- tain made feveral hauls with the large net, and caught fuch a quantity, that two pounds and a half were diftributed to each man; and plenty of greens had been gathered, which, when boiled with peas, made an excellent mefs. On the 1ft of July, all the crew had permiffion to go on fhore, except ore from each mefs. Some of our people who went up the country, gave an account of their having feen feveral animals, and a fire about a mile up the river. On the 3d, the mafter, who had beeft fent in the pinnace, returned, and reported, that he had found a pafTage out at fea, between flioals which corififted of coral rocks^ inany whereof were dry at low water. ^7'. N^' He. .>>.:■• 100 CAPTAIN COOK S He found cockels fo large, that one of them was more than fufficient for two men ; likew'^e plenty of other fliell-fifli, of which he brought a fupply to the fhip, in his return to which he had landed in a bay where fome Indians were at fupper ; but they inftantly retired, leaving fome eggs by a fire for drefling them. This day we made another attempt to float the (hip, and happily fucceeded at high watery when we found that by the pofition flie had lain in, one of her planks was fprung, fo that it was again neceflary to lay her afliore. An alligator fwam by her feveral times at high water. Wednefday the 4th, was employed in trimming her upon an even keel, warping her over, and laying her down on a fand-bank, on the fouth fide of the river ; and on the next (he was again floated, and moored off the beach, in order to receive the ftores on board. This day, the Gth, Mr. Banks failed up the river, to make an excurfion up the country, and re- turned on the 8th. Having followed the courfe of the river, they found it at length contra61ed into a nar- row channel, bounded by Iteep banks, adorned with trees of a molt beautiful appearance, among which was the bark tree. The land was low, and covered with grafs, and feemed capable of being cultivated to great perfeftion. Going in purfuit of game, we faw four animals, two of which were chafed by Mr. Banks*s greyhound, but they gtcatly outftripped him in fpeed, by leaping over the long thick grafs, which incommoded the dt>g in running. It was obferved of the animals that they bounded forward on two legs, infl:ead of running on four. Having returned to the boat, they pro- ceeded up the river, till it contracted to a brook of frcfh watCtT, but in which the tide rofe confiderably. Having flopped to pafs the night, we faw at fome diflance a fmoke, on which three of us approached it, but the Indians were gone. The tide favouring us in the morning, we loll no time in getting back 4:o the ihip. :- . ■ The FIRST VOYAGE. 101 The next day, the fecond lieutenant came on fhore, and foon after faw four Indians, in a fmall ca- noe. The captain now determined to :ake notice of thefe people, as the mod likely way to be noticed by them. This projeft anfwered ; two of them came within mufket fliot of the veflfel, where they con- verfcd very loud ; in return, the people on board flioiited, and made figns of invitation. The Indians gradually approached, with their lances held up ; not in a menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate that they were capable of defending them- felves. They came almoft along fide, when the captain threw ihem cloth, nails, paper. Sec. which did not feem to attraft their notice ; at length, one of the failors threw a fmall fifh, which fo pleafed them, that they hinted their defigns of bringing their companions, and immediately rowed for ihore. In the interim, Tupia and fome of the crew landed ou the oppofite fliore. ' The four Indians now came quite along fide the (liip, and having received farther prefcnts, landed where Tupia and the failors had gone. They had each two lances,, and a ftick with which they threw them. Advancing towards the Englifli, Tupia per- fuaded them to lay down their arms, and fit by him, which they readily did. Others of the crew now go- ing on fliore, the Indians feemed jealous, left they fhould get between them and their arms ; but care was taken to convince them that no fuch thing was intended, and more trifles were prefented to them, The crew ftaid with them till dinner time, and then made l.^us of invitation for them to go to the lliip and eat ; but this they declined, and retired in their canoe. Thefe men were of the common ftature, with very fmall limbs : their complexion was of a deep choco- late, their hair black, either lank or curled, but not of the woolly kind j the breafts and upper lip of one of them were painted with ftreaks of white, which he called carbanda> and fome of their bodies painted ':5.*'.. red. i02 CAPTAIN COOK S red. Their teeth were white and even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleafin;^ ; their voices muiical, and tliey repeated feveral Englilli words with great readinefs. The next morning, the vifit of three of thefe In- dians was renewed, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called Yaparico, who appeared to be a perfon of fome confequence. The bone of a bird, about fix inches long, was thruft through his nofe. Thefe people being all naked, the captain gave one of them an old fliirt, which he bound round his head like a tur^ban. They brought a fifli to the fhip, which was fuppofed to be in payment for that given them the day before : after flaying fome time with apparent fatisfaQion, they fuddenly leaped into their cande, and rowed oflT, from a jealoufy of fome of the gentlemen, who were examining it. On the 12th, three Indians vifited Tupia's tent, and after remaining fome time, went for two others, whom they introduced by name. Some flfli was of- fered them, but they feemed not much to regard it ; after eating a little, they gave the reft to Mr. Banks's dog. On the 14th, Mr. Gore fliot one of the animals above-mentioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing more than 38 pounds, but when they are full grown, they are as large as a fheep. The fkin of this beaft, which is called Kangaroo, is covered with fliort fur, and is of a dark moufe -colour ; the head and ears are fomewhat like thofc of a hare j this animal was drefled for dinner, and proved to be fine eating. The fhip's crew fed on turtle almoft every day, finer than thofe eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their natural fat was wafted, and their juices changed. ' " ~ ' ' " ' '"' On the 17th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went ^vith the captain into the woods, and faw four Indi- ans in a canoe, who went on fliore, and walked up without fign of fear. They accepted fome beads, and departed, intimating that tliey did not chufe to be followed. The natives being now become fami- liar FIRST VOYAGE. 103 iiur with the fliip's crew, one of them was defircd to ihrow his lance, which he did, with fuch dexterity and force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the higheit, it penetrated deeply into a tree at the diftance of fifty yards. The natives now came on board the (liip, and were well pleafcd with their entertainment. On the 19th, we faw feveral of the women, who, as well as the men, were quite naked. We were this day vifited by ten Indians, who fecmed refolvcd to have one of ihe turtles that was on board, which they repeatedly made figns for, and being as repeat- edly refufed, they exprefled the utmoft rage and re- fentment : one of them in particular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he ftamped, and pufhed him away in a mod violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to the fide of the (hip where the canoe lay, but the lailors took them away. They made feveral fimilar attempts, but being equally unfuccefsful, they leaped fuddenly into their canoe, and rowed oflF. At this inltant, the captain, with Mr. Banks, and five of the feamen, went on ihore, where many of the crew were employed. One of the Indians fnatched a fire- brand from under a pitch kettle, and running to the windward of what effefts were left on fliore, fet fire to the grafs, which burned rapidly, fcorched a pig to death, burned part of the fmith's forge, and would have deftroyed a tent of Mr. Banks's, but fome peo- ple came from the (hip juft time enough to get it out of the way of the flames. In the mean while, the Indians went to a place where the fifliing nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there again fet fire to the grafs, in fpite of all perfuafion, and even of threats. A mufket loaded with fmali (hot, was fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, and this fecond fire was extinguiftied : but the other burned far into the woods. The I^4i^ns ftill continuing in fight, a mufket was fired with ball, the report only of which fent them ii'Li out 10 !■ CAVTAIN COOK 6 out of fight ; but their voices being heard in the woods, the captain with a few people went to meet them. Both parties flopped when in fight of each other ; at which time an old Indian advanced, and fpoke aloud to his companions, who placed their lances againft a tree, and came forward in a friendly manner. When they came up to us, we returned tjic darts we had taken, and perceived with great fatisfa6lion, that this rendered the reconciliation com- plete. Having received from us fome trinkets, they • walked amicably towards the coaft, intimating by figns, that they would not fire the grafs again. On the 20th, our fliip being ready for fea, the mafter was fent in fearch of a paflage to the north- ward, but could not find any ; while the captain founded and buoyed the bar. This day wc faw not any Indians ; but the hills, for many miles, were on fire, which at njght made an appearance truly •fublime. ' On the 24th, one of the failors, who with others "had been fent to gather kale, having ftrayed from the - reft, fell in -with four Indians at dinner; He was at firft much alarmed, but had prudence enough to con- • eeal his apprehenfions ; and fitting down by them, "gave them his knife, which having examined, they returned. He would have left them, but they feemed '•difpofed to detain him, till, by feeling his hands and ''face, thfey were convinced he wa* made of flelli and "^Ijlood like themfelves. They treated him with great • :' civility, and having kept him about half an hour, they *• inade figns that he might depart. When he left them, • pot taking the direct road to the fhip, they caii^e "'• from the fire, and fliewed him the neareft way ; from ■'\vhetice we concluded, that they knew fropi \yhence •'•he cam«. - ■. , . •, > , * > 'Mr. Banks having gone on fliore in fearch of pjan^s, found the cloth that had been diftributed .^rjiopg the .'lEialiveej lying, in aheap, aaufeJefs lumb^jTr". rl^^cd, '•'tfeey feemed tQ fet verjJittle yalu« uppp ^pyj^lvng •■ ♦?♦ yr fu H' >^. .'/ FiRST VOYAGE. 10; we had, except our turtle, a commodity we were leaft inclined and able to fpare, /. On the 29th, we got the anchor up, and made ail ready to put to fea. A boat was fent out to afcertain what water was upon the bar ; when returned, the officer reported, that there was only 13 feet, which was fix inches lefs than the fliip drew. We therefore this day i^ave up all hopes of failing. On the 30th, we had frefti gales and hazy weather, till Tuefday the 31ft, at three in the morning, when the weather became more moderate. During all the time, the pinnace and yawl continued to ply the net and hook with tolerable good fuccefs, bringing in at different times a turtle, and from 2 to 300 weight of fifli. . ;» On the 4 th of Aueuft, we once more got under fail, and put to fea. We ftood off E. by N. with the pinnace a-head to keep founding. About noon we came to an anchor, when the harbour from whence we had failed bore S. 70 W. diftant about five leagues. The captain here named the northcrmoft point of land in fight Cape Bedford, and the harbour we had quit- ted, Endeavour River. Our lat. by obfervation, was 15 deg. 32 min. S. Endeavour River is only a fmall bar harbour, which runs in a winding channel, three or four leagues in land. The depth of water for fliipping, is not more than a mile within the bar, and only on the north fide. The provifions we procured in this bar- hour confifted of turtle, oyfters of different forts, ca- valhe, flat fifli, Ikate, or ray fifli, purflain, wild beans, and cabbage palms. The foil of the hills, though ftony, produces coarfe grafs, befides wood ; that of the vallies is in general well cloathed, and has the appearance of fertility. The trees are of various forts, of which the gum trees are the moft common. On each fide of the river are mangroves, which in feme parts extend a mile within the coaft. On the 4th, Captain Cook went up to the maft- head to look at fome dangerous flioals, feveral of which we faw above water. This day, fuch a quan- 5 O tity roG CAPTAIW COOK S td^y of filh was caught, as allowed a dividend of two- pounds to each man. During the fix following, days, wo attempted to fail between the (hoals and breakers, by which we were every way furrounded. Qa the lOth', we were- between a head land and- thr;*V.v a-y •:' -' • . ^^ ,^ ^; . ^ ^ .: _ i>B 0Ur rctuni to the dii'p,i"'t'hef ea^tain nainied tnis- place thd* Lizard Iflands, on account of our having fecn no (ilher animals but lizards. When returning,, we landed on a low fandy ifland, upon which wer^. bifds of various kinds. We took a neft of youi^g ^«ir?, i gle$» .amd therefore called the place Eagle Ifland. J, , S •On the i2th, the officers held a conuiltatipn, aud^ we .>vere..amanimous'in^ opiriidn^ that it \^otiid be'beft tocimit t^ Cciaft ait'ogether',' till \Ve cOuldlippfoacl) iii, witl^ ;l|?rs^danger J 'iili'Gdhl^[uence 0^ which x:oneur-y riRST VOYAGE. 107 pool this, [ving ea-: laud Ibefe 'J , ' :ur-r rent opinion, we failed on the i3th, and got through one of the channels in the reef, happy at findiiv|f ourfelves once more in the open fea, after having been" furroundcd by dreadful flioals and rocks for near*hrec months. We have now failed above 1 000 miles during which run we had been obliged to keep found- ing, without the intcrmiHion of a fingle minute ; a circumftance which, it is fuppofed, never happened to any one fliip but the Endeavour, m; .y,)^^Au tinu On the 4th we anchored, and by abfCrvation, our lat. was i3 deg. 46 min. S. and at this time we had no land in fight. On the 1 6th, we ileer^d a wefterly courfc, in order to get fight of land, tfcat avc might not overfhoot the pailage, if a paiTagc there was be- tween this land and New Guiney. Early ki ^he af- ternoon, we ha4 fight of land, which had the appear- ance -of hilly ifl^nds, hut it wa$ judged to be part of the iTiain* and we, faw breakers between tl»e veffel and the lana, m tvhfch there was an opening ; : to get clear, w^ fet all bur falls, and -ftood to the «orth\tTard till midnight^ and then, went on a fouthwgrd tack for abdut three miles, when the breeze died away to a dead calm, When day-light came on, we raw ii dreadful furf break at ,a vafl height, within a mile of the fliip, towards which the rolling wuves carried her with .grfiat rapidity. Thus diftreffcd,^he beats were fent a-head to tow, and the bead'of the veffel was brought about, but not till (lie was withm too yards of the rock, between which and her nothing was left but the chafm, and which had rifen amd broke to a wooiderful height on the rock j but in the mo- < nient we expe61ed inftant d©ftru6tion, a breeze, hardly difcernable, aided the boats in getting th6 veifel in an oblique dire£lioa from the rock. The' hopes, however, afforded by this providential" cir- cumftance, were dcftroyed by a perlefcl calm, whJ^h fucceeded in a few rnij^utes ; yet the breeze once more returned ; before we had loft tlic little grt)und' whicli had been gained. At this time a fmall open- ing was fccn in the reef, and a young officer being O 2 fent jij 108 CAPTAIN COOK S }-, r fcnt to examine it, found that its breadth did not Auuch exceed the length of the fliip, but that there was fi3K)oth water on the other fide of the rocks. Animated by the defire of prefervine; life, we now attempted to pafs the opening; but this was ittipdf- fible, for it having become high water in the interim, the ebb-tide ruflied through it with amazing impetuo- fity, carrying the fliip about a mile from the reef, and flie foon reached the diftance of near two miles by the help of the boats. "• * '' ^\'^'*' . -^jr^]'.-^! v ...//When the ebb-tide was fpent, the tide of flobd again drove the. veflel very near the rocks, fo that our profpe6V of deftru6tion was renewed, when w6 dif- covered anofher opening, and a light breeze fpring- in^ up, we entered /it» and Were driven through it with a rapidity that preyienteG \e fliip from ftriking againil either fide of the cl .nnel. The flii-p now came to an anchor, and our men were grateful for having regained a ftation, which they had been very lately moit anxious to' quit. The name, of Provi- dence, Channel, was given to the opening through which the fhip had.ilius efcapcd the moft imminent dangers.'," "'-'•,* ^ i'-/. 'j'Uifri idi- p^nr/r^-^mrita _ * /pn the 17th, the 'bo^ts went out to filh, and met \vitli gre^it fut^cefs, particularfy in catching fcockles, foijie of which were of fuch an amazing iize, as to require the ftrepgth of two meir to remove thim. Mr. Banks likevsrifb fucccedcd in his Te^rch for fare lliclls, apd different kmds of coriil,- '. ''*'* r ^^'''" * / ,6n the 2j% w^e failed through' a' chjjfinel, in vyblcli ^as a n'limber of flioals ; and gave the name of f York Cape to $ point of the main land which forms ^^t,he fide yf the chuhiieh In the afternoon^ wfan^ .chored between fome iflands, and obferved, that- the '^anrtel now beg^ri to grow wider ; we perceived \\\'0 diflant points, bctwe&n which no land t%uM be ie^^h, fo that the hope of having at length exploiF^ a paihge into the Indian' ie^', began to anitn&tee^'ery brealt ; but, toi bring the^imatler'to a ce^rtairifyt^ the captain took a party, and accompanied by the gen-» tlenien. FIRST VOYAGi:. IO9 tic men, they la.ided on an ifland, on which they had Teen a number of Indians, ten of whom were on a hiH, one of them carrying a bow and a bundle of arrows, the reft armed with lances. Three of thcfe Indians ftood on fliorc, as if to oppofe the land- ing of the boat, but they retired before it reached the beach. ,r ,, ., ., :^..f, ,..;;,... The captain and his company arcenaed^ a hill, from whence they had a view of near 40 miles, in which fpace there was nothing that threatened to oppofe their paflage, fo that the certainty of a chan- nel feemcd almoft indubitable. Previous to their leaving the ifland. Captain Cook difplayed the Eng- lifli colours, and took poflelTion of all the country, from the 38th deg. of S. ht. to the prefent fpot, by the name of New South Wales, tor the king of ureat iiritam.' f ? n. • v . .' t <• The next morning we faw three naked women coUetting fhell-fifh on the beach ; and weighing an- chor, named it Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the largelt ifland on the north- weft fide of the paf- fage ; fome low iflands neat the middle of the cnan^ nel receivino^ the name of Wallis*s ifle ; foon after V -which the fliip came to an anchor, and the long-boat >^vas feat out to found. Towards evening we failed againy and the captain landed with Mr. B^nks, on a fmall ifland, frequented by immeiife nunibers df birds, the majority of which being boobies, the place re- ceived the name of Booby Ifland. We W€re now adtvanced to the northern extre- mity of New Holland, and had tlie fatisfa£lion of >vicwing the open fea to the weft ward. The N. E. -:!>; entrance of the paflage is formed by the maii? lan.dof -fftNew Holland, and by a number of iflands^ which I > took the name of the Prince of Wales's Ifland^' and -d which Captain Cook injagines may reach to I^^ew t iGuiney j thefe iflanda abouijid with trees and grafs, V -< imd wer^ known to l^e ipf>^bitedi froni th^ ^(rnoke J. < i that was feen afcending in many placq?^, ; '; I -. :Ti V ew lEIO CAPTAIN -COOK S New South Wales is a i^iuch larger country tlirio any hitherto known, ,apd not deemed a continent, be- ing la^rger than /all Europ^y which is, proved by the Endeavour's haying coafted more than 2poo miles, -^ven if her, tract were reduced to a ftraight line-. Northward of the lat. of 33 4eg, the country is hilly^ yet not mountainous ; but to the S. of that lat. it is moftly low and cven,grqund„ fThe;hil!.s in general are diverfified by lawns and woods, a«d many r of the valiies abound withjierbage, though, on .thei wh it cannot be ji^eme^d^ajfertU^^countcy. »; .. /^ v uv • ••. . .. ...j,ir; V... >:'■■' v''':'.i .J-.-'^i ^. ..u«;J^i•iii'W';- lyw Endeavour fQntinucs 'hei\ voi/ggefi^m South Wates^ 5Q ioNezv Guiit^y—An accmir^t-Qf iucide.its upon land^ ing there— Proceeds from Nezv Utiiney to the ijtand Savaii- — Its product and mJtabitanfs — Bun from Sa- rau to Bafavia—^Trqihfaciiot^s ivkUe. the Endeavour wasrefi/iing (^tthisjdf^fic^r^.jA ^-jur .< Vv,, , H''"-''>\.r N the ;23d of Auguft, 17TQ, after leaving Booby Ifland„ we had light ail's till five o'clock, when it fell calm, an^d vye cajciie tp aii anchor in €ight fa- thom water, witiji a fpft fandy bottojfa. On the 24th, foon after the ^i^chor.'W^s weighed, we got under fail, fleering N. W. and in a few hours one of the boats a-head made the fignal for fl>Oalrwater. We inltantly ■ broughtthe fliip to, with all her fails ftandjng, and a furvey being taken of the fea around her, it was found that ifhe i)at Ji^i' 1 't '■ ' Land having been this day difcovcred from the-* maft-head^ we ftood off and on all night, and at day- break failed towards it with a brilk gale. Between iix and feven in the morning we had fight of afmall low ifland, at about a league from the main, in lat. 80 deg. 13 min. &. and in long. 221 deg. 25 min. W. and it had already been diftinguiflied by the names of Bartholomevf and Whermoyfen. It appeared a very level idandi clothed with trees. The boats were fent out to found, the water being fliallow ; but as the fliip, in failing two leagues, had found no incrcafe in its depth, lignals were made for the boats to return on board. Wc then flood out to fea till midnight,, tacked, and ftood in for morning. , ,,. ,. . , ^^. Qn the 5oth, when about fbur leagues diftapfV w&" had fight of it, and its appearance was Hill flat and- woody. We now held a northward courfe, fcarcely ^ withiufight of land, and a* the water was juft deep : enough to navigate the veffel, many unfuccefsful at- tempts w«?rc made to bring her near enough to get on, fliqre ; it was therefore determined to land in one of '^ the boats, while the Ihip kept plying off and on. la ' confequence of this refolution,. ' Ou September the Sd, Captain Cook, IMr. Banks,.' and iPr^.Solander, attended by the boat's crew, and j Mr, Banks's fervant, fet off from the fliip in the pin- "V iKic^j being in all twelve J:)erfons, well {ifnied. WeV rowed diretUv to the lliore, but When come wilhiii '* 2oQi;yjards.ofit, tound the water fo ihallow, tliat we' were obliged to leave the boat in care of the faiTor$j and wjidQ po lartd.: V e had no fooner readied t)ie , iborpj/lJi^n! we faw .fevered priftts of human feet on tlie fandj. bejbjv high water mark, from whence it v>lft? •7 - \ <.'^ .■\ii. was 112 CAPTAIN COOKS was evident, that the natives had been there. We walked by the fide of a wood, and came tc a grove of cocoa-nut trees, not far from which was a flied or hut, which had been covered with leaves, and near it lay a number of frefh fliells of the fruit. Having now advanced a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rulhed out o^ the wood with a hideous fhout, at about the diftance of loo yards, and as they ran towards us, the foremoft threw fomething out of his hand, which flew on one fide of him, and burnt ex- a6tly like gun-powder, but made no report; and the others threw their lances at us. No time was to be lolt ; we difcharged our pieces loaded with fmall fliot only, which we imagine they did not feel ; for without retreating, they caft a third dart : we there- fore loaded* with ball, and fired a fecond time. It is probable fome of them were wounded, as they all took to their heels immediately. We improved this interval, in which the deftruc- tion of the natives was no longer neceflary to our de- fence, and with i-.ll expedition returned to our boat. In the way we perceived fignals on board, that more Indians^vere coming down in a body ; and before we got into the water, we perceived feveral of them coming round a point at the diftance of about 5oo yards. When they faw us, they halted, and feemed to wait till the main body fhould join them. They continued in this ftation, without giving us any in- terruption, while we entered the water, and waded towards the boat. We now took a view of them at our leifure. They made much the fame appearance as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the fame ftature, and having their hair fliort cropped. T'"»ey were alfo like them ftark naked. During this lune they were Ihouting at a diltance, and letting off their fires, which feemed to be difcharged by a fliort piece of (lick, probably a hollow cane ; this being fvvung (ideways, produced fire and fmoak like that occafi- Oned by a mufket. The crew on board the (hip faw this ftrange appearance, and thought the natives had FIRST VOYAGE. 113 jy m- aded m at ance a me lune heir )iece rung cafi- faw Bives had had fire-arms. Tliofe who went out in the boat, had rowed a-breaft of them, fired fome mufkets above the.ir heads, the balls of which being heard by the natives rattling among the trees, they retired very deliberately, and our people in the boat returned to the Ihip. This place is in lat. 6 deg. 15 min. S. -,. • nrv^^;.-, . ,- • September the 3d, we made fail to the wettward, being refolved to fpend no more time upon this coaft ; but before wc got under fliil, fome of the officers ftrongly urged the captain to fend a party of men 011 (bore, to cut down the cocoa-nut trees, for the fake of the fruit. This Captain Cook, with equal wifdom and humanity, peremptorily refufed, as unjud and cruel; fenlible that,^/" the poor Indians, who could not brook even the la-ad^*^'"^ ing of a fmall party on their coaft, would have made a vigorous effort to defend their property had it been in- vaded ; confequently many muft have fallen a facrifice on their fide, and perhaps fome of our own people. " I fiiould, (fays Captain Cook) have regretted the nc- ceffity of fuch a meafure, if I had been in want of the necellaries of life j and certainly it would have been highly criminal when nothing was to be obtained but two or three hundred green cocoa-nuts ; which would at moft procure us mere tranfient gratification. 1 might indeed have proceeded farther along the coaft to the northward, or weftward, in fearch of a place where the fliip might have lain to near the ftiore, as to cover the people with her guns when they landed ; but this would have obviated only part of the mifchief, and though it might have fecured us, it would probably in the very jift have been fatal to the natives. Befides, we had reafon to think that before fuch a place could have been found, we fiiould have been carried (o far to the weft- ward as to have been obliged to go to Batavia, which jvas another reafon for making the beft of our way to tjfat place, efpecially as no difcovcries could be ex- pected in feas which had already been navigated, and where every coaft had been laid down by the Dutch geographers.';^,^ ^<;^.n: .^r. r,h h- 5 ^tiii ."Mil bll.^nl no A.'^T^ t>f'T ' l)t.M ! On the 1 6th, we had fight of the little ifland called Rotte ; and the fame day law the ifland Semau, at a diftance to the fouthward of Timor. The ifland of Rotte is chiefly covered with bufhy wood without leaves, but there are a number of fan palm trees on it, grow- ing near the fandy beaches ; and the whole conlifh of alternate hills and vallies. The ifland of Semau is not fo hilly as Timor, but refembles it greatly in other re- fpeds. At ten o'clock this night a dull reddilh light was (een in the air, many parts of which emitted rays of a brighter colour, which loon vanilhed, and were fuc- ceeded by others of the ianie kind. This phocnomenon, which reached about ten degrees above the horizon, bore a confiderable relemblance to the Aurora Borealis, ®nly that the rays of light which it emitted had no tre- .. ' mulous FIRST VOYAGE. II mulous motion ; it was furveyed for two hours, during, which time its brightneU continued undiminiihed. As the (liip was now clear of all the iilands which iiad been laid down in I'uch maps as were on board, we made lail during the niglir, and were furpril'ed the next morning at the fight ot an ifland to the VV. S. W. which we flat- tered ourlelves was a new diicovery. Before noon we had fight of houlcs, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of flieep. This was a vveicome fight to people whole health was declining for want of refrelhment, and it was inflantly relolved to attempt th.e purchafe of what we (tood io much in need of. The fccond heu- tcnant was immediately diipatched in the pinnace, in learch of a landing-place; and he took, with him fucli things as it was thought might be acceptable to the na- tives. — During Mr. Gore's ablence, the people on board faw two men on horfeback upon the hills, who frequently flopped to take a view ot the vefleK The lieutenant foon returned with an account that he had entered a little cove, near which flood a few houfes ; that feveral men advanced and invited him to land ; and that they converfed together as well as they could by figns. The lieutenant not being able to find any place in which the (hip might come to anchor, he was difpatched again with money and goods to buy fuch necefl'aries as w.ere immediately wanted for the fick. Dr. Solander attended the lieutenant, and during their abfence, the (hip flood off and on the (hore. Soon after the boat had put ofl', two other horfemen were leen from the (hip, one of whom had a laced hat on, and was drefTed in a coat and waiflcoat of the fafliion of Europe. Thele men rode about on fliore taking little notice of the boat, but regarding the fliip with the utmoft attention. As foon as the boat reached tlie Ihore, lome other per- fbns on horfeback, and many on foot, haflened to the fpot, and it was oblerved that fome cocoa-nuts Vk'erc put into the boat, from whence it was concluded, that a traffic had commenced with the natives. A fignal being made from the boat that the fliip might anchor V z m Il6 CAPTAIN cook's in a bay at feme di (lance, (he immediately bore away for it. When the lieutenant came on board, he re- ported, that he could not purchafe any cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was abfent, and that what he had brought, were given him, in return for which he had prtued the natives with fome linen. The method by which he learned that there was a harbour in the neigh- bourhood, was by the natives drawing a kind of rude map on the (and, in which the harbour, and a town near it, was reprefented ; it was likewife hinted to him, that fruit, fowl, hogs, and (heep, might be there ob- tained in great abundance. He faw (everal of the prin^ cipal inhabitants of the iiland, who had chains of gold about their necks, and wore fine linen. The word Portuguefe being frequently repeated by the Indians, it was conjedlured that fome natives of Portugal were in the ifland, and one of the boat's crew being of that kingdom, he fpoke to the iflanders in his own language, but foon found that they had only learned a few words, of which they did not know the meaning. While the natives were endeavouring to reprefent the fituation of the town near the harbour, one of them, in order to be more particular in diredions, informed the Englilh, that they would fee fomething which he endeavoured to defcribe by placing his fingers acrofs each other ; and the Portuguefe failor took it for granted, that he could mean nothing but a crofs. When the boat's crew were on the point of returning to the fliip, the gentleman who had been feen on horfeback in the drefs of Europe, came down to the beach ; but the lieutenant did not think it proper to hold a conference with him, becaufe he had left his commiflion on board the (hip. When the (hip had entered the bay, in the evening, according to the diredions received, an Indian town was feen at a diftance ; upon which a jack was hoifted on the fore-top-maft head ; prefently afterwards three guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoifted in the town ; the (hip, however, held on her way, and came to an .^uchor at feven in the evening. The colours be- ing ken hoifted on the beach the next morning, the. captain WHMMMHh^ Vi FIRST VOYAGE. I17 captain concluded, that the Dutch had a fettlement oa the ifland ; the therefore difpatched the iecond lieuten- ant to acquaint the governor, or other principal rcfi- dent, who they were, and that the fliip had put in for necelHiry refrefliments. The lieutenant having landed, he was received by a kind of guard of foaiething more than twenty Indians, armed with muikets, who, after they had taken down their colours from the beac!i, pro- ceeded without the leaft military order ; and thus ef- corted him to the town, where the colours had been hoifted the preceding evening. The lieutenarit was now conduded to the Raja, or king of the ifland, to whom, by means of a Portuguele interpreter, he made known his bufinefs. The raja faid, he was ready to fupply the flilp with the necelTary refrefliments, but that he could not trade with any other people than the Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having firft obtained their content ; he added, however, that he would make application to the Dutch agent, who was the only white man among them. To this agent* whofe name was Lange, and who proved to be the |>er- fon that was kzn from the fl^ip in the European drefs, a letter was difpatched, and in a few hours he came to the town, behaved politely, to the lieutenant, and told him he might buy what he thought proper of the inha- bitants of the ifland. This offer being freely made, and readily accepted, the raja and Mr. Lange intimated their wiflies to go on board the fliip, and that two of the boat's crew might be left as hollages for their fafc. return. The lieutenant gratified them in both thele requefts, and took them on board juft before dinner was ferved. It was thought that they would have fat down without ceremony ; but now the raja intimated his doubts, whether being a black, they would permit him to fit down with them. The politenefs of the offi- cers foon removed his fcruples, and the greateft good humour and feftivity prevailed among them. As Dr. Soiander and another gentleman on board, were tolera- bly proficients in Dutch, they ad:ed as interpreters be- tween Mr. Lange and the officers, while fome of the fai]or$. ii3 CAPTAIN COnv's failors, who underftood Portuguclc, converfcd with fuch oF the raja's attendants as Ipoke that language. Our dinner confided chiefly of mutton, uliich, when the raja had tailed, he rcqutlled ot us an Enohfli (hcep, and tiie only one we had left was pveicnted to him. Our coniplailance in this particular, encouraged the king to alk for an Knghlli dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave him his greyhound. A Ipying-glais was alio put into his hand, Mr. Johan Chrillopher Lange having inti- mate. 1 that fuch a prefent would be very acceptable. Our vifitors now informed us, that the ifland abounded with butialoes, Oieep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which iliould be driven down to the (hore the next day. This put us all in high fpirits, and the liquor circulated ra- ther fafler than cither the Indians or the Saxon could bear; but they had, however, the refolution to exprefs a delire to depart, before they were quite intoxicated. When they came upon deck, they were received in the fame manner as when they came aboard, by the marines under arms ; and the rajaexpreffingadefire to lee them exercife, his curiofity was gratified. They ured three rounds. The king obferved them with great attention, and appeared much'furprifed at the regularity and eX" pedition of their manoeuvres. They were dilmifled with many prefents, and on their departure, wereialuted with nine guns. Our gentlemen, on their arrival at the town, tafted their palm wine, which was the frefh juice of the trees, unfermented. It had a fweet, but not difagreeable tafte, and hopes were entertained that it might contribute to recover our lick of the Icurvy. ^^i^t •)•:>■ . 'rTsjifiki :••■ On the 19th, Captain Cook, attended by feveral gentlemen, went on lliore to return the raja's vifit ; but their principal intention was to purchafe the cattle and fowls, which they had been allured the preceding day Ihou'd be driven down to the beach. We were greatly chagrined at finding no fteps had been taken to fulfil this promife : however, we proceeded to the houfe of aiiembly, which, with a few other houfes, built by the Du'.ch Eail: India Company, are diftinguiflied from the FIRST VOYAGE. II9 the reft, by having two pieces of wood, refemblingapair of cows horns, fixed at each end of the roof; and thefe We concluded to be what the Portuguefc iailors con- flrudl into erodes, from the Indian having crollcd his fingers when he was detcribing the town. At the hioulc of airembl}', we faw Mr. Lange and tlie raja, wiiolb name was A Madocho Lomi Piara, lurrounded by many of the principal people ; Captain Cook having informed them, that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wiflied to exchange for neceliary refrcflimcnts, permiflion was given him to land them. We now en- deavoured to make an agreement for the liogs, ihcep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cafli j but this bufinefs was no fooner hinted, than Mr. Lange took his leave, having firfl: told the captain that he had re- ceived a letter from the governor of Concordia, in Timor, the contents of which fliould be difclofed at his return. As the morning was now far advanced, and we had no provifions on board, we requ( led the raja's permiflion to buy a fmall hog and fome rice, and to or- der his people to drel's the dinner for us. He very obligingly replied, that if we would eat vidluals dreffed by his fubjedts, which he could fcarcely luppole, he would do himfelf the honour of entertaining us. A dinner being thus procured, the captain fent off his boat to bring liquors from the Ihip. It was ready about five o'clock, and after we were feated on mats, which were fpread on the floor, it was ferved in fix and thirty baf- kets. We were then conduded by turns to a hole in the floor, near which fl:ood a man with water in a vef- fel, made of the leaves of the fan-palm, who afi!ifted us in waihing our hands. This done, we returned to our places, and expedtcd the king. Having waited fome time, we enquired the rcafon of his abfence, and were informed that the perfon who gave the entertainment never partook of it with his guefts, but that tho raja was ready to come and tafie of what was provided, if we entertained a thought that the victuals were poi- foned. We declared that we did not harbour any luch fufpicion, and defired that the cullom of the country .... . . miiihc no CAPTAIN COOK S might not be violated on our account. The pork and rice were excellent, and the broth not to be delpiled j but the fpoons, made of leaves, were fo 1 mall, that few oF us had patience to ufe them. We did not drink our wine at the place where we had dined j antl the remains oF the dinner we IsFt to the Teamen and fervants. When we thought the wine had fo far operated as to open the heart, we took an opportunity to enquire after the buffaloes and Qicep, of which we had not in all this time heard a fyllable, though they were to have been at the beach early in the morning. Mr. Lange, the Saxon Dutchman, now began to communicate to us the contents of the letter, which he pretended to have received from the governor of Concordia, and wherein he laid, inftruMi FIRST VOYAGE. 121 the buffaloes being far up in the country, there had not been time to brinij them down to the beach. Oil the 20th, Dr. Solander went afhore with Cap- tain Cook, and while the former went up to the town to fpcak. to Lan^'.e, the captain remained on the beach with a view of purchafing provifions. Here he met with an old Indian, who, as he appeared to have fome authority, we called him the Prime Minifter. The captain prefented him with a fpying-glafs ; but only a fmall butfalo was offered to be lold. The price was five guineas, nearly twice its real value. Three, however, were offered, which the dealer thought a good price ; but faid, he mud acquaint the king with what had been bid before he could ftrike the bargain. A meffenger was immediately difpatched to the raja, and on his return, brought word, that not lefs than five guineas would be taken for the buffalo. The captain abfolutely refufed to give the fum demanded, which occafioned the fend- ing away a fecond meffenger ; and during his abfence. Dr. Solander was feen coming from the town, followed by above a hundred men, fomc of whom were armed with mufkets, and others with lances. Upon enquiring into the meaning of tliis hoftile appearance, the doftor informed us, that the people would not trade with us becaule we had refufed to give them more than half the value for their commodities ; and that we were not to exped permiflion to trade upon any terms longer than this day. A native of Timor, whofe parents were Portuguefe, came down with this party, and delivered to the captain what was pretended to be the order of the raja, and which was in fubftance the fame that Lange had told Dr. Solander ; but it was afterwards difcovered that this man was a confident of Lange's in the fcheme of extor- tion. The Englilh gentleman had at the fame time no doubt, but that the fup[x^fed order of the raja was a contrivance of thefe men, and while they were de- bating how to aft in this critical jundurc, anxious to bring the affair to fpeedy iffue, the Portuguefe began to drive away fuch of the natives as had brought palm- 6 . Q^ fyrup i A 122 CAPTAIN COOK i i'yrup and fowls to fell, and others who were now bring- ing (hecj) and buffaloes to the market. At thisjundlure, Captain Cook happened to look at the old man who had been dilVmguilhed by the name of prime minifter, imagined that he faw in his features a diiapprobation of the prelcnt proceedings ; and, willing to improve the advantage, he grafpcd the Indian's hand, and gave him an old broad fword. This well-timed prefcnt produced all the good cfledls that could be wiflied j the prime minifter was enraptured at lb honourable a mark of dif- tindion, and brandilbing his fword over the head of the impertinent Portuguele, he made both him and a man who commanded the party, to fit down behind him on the ground. The whole bufinefs was now accompliQied ; the natives, eager to fupply whatever was wanted, brought their cattle in for fale, and the market wasfbon flocked. Captain Cook purchafed of the natives fom6 hundred gallons of palm-fyrup, a fmall quantity of gar- lick, a large number of eggs, Ibme limes and cocoa-nuts, thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, fix fheep, and nine buffaloes. Having obtained thele articles, we now pre- pared for failing from this place. The ifland of Savu is fituated in lo deg. ^S ^'"- ^• lat. and 237 deg. 30 min. W. long. The harbour in which the fliip lay was called Seba. The ifland pro- duced tobacco, cotton, betel, tamarinds, li-mes, oranges, mangoes, Guiney corn, rice, callevances, and melons. A iniall quantity of cinnamon was ken, and fome European herbs, fuch as garlick, fennel, celery, and marjoram. . ; ^ - j" : ^ ;',' - ; ::-iv. ? v •■>"•' The people of this ifland are below the middle fla- fure ; their hair is black and lii-aight. The men are well formed and fprightly, and their features differ much from each other ; the women, on the contrary, have all one let of features, are very fliort, and broad built. The men have filver pincers hanging by firings round their necks, .with which they pluck out the hairs of their beards. The drefs of the men confiits of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge of it being drawn pretty ti^ht between the- legs, the upper edge is left loofe, FIRST VOYAGE. 12S fo as to form a kind of pocket, in which they carry knives and otlier things ; the other piece being paiVcd under the former on the back of the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the flioulders, and tucked into the pocket before. The women drew the upper edge of tlie piece round the waift tight, while the lower edge, dropping to the knees, made a kind of petticoat : the other piece of cloth is fallened acrofs the breaft, and under the arms. As to the food of thefe people, they eat all the tame animals to be found in the ifland j but they prefer the hog to all others ; the next to this they admire horfe- flelh ; to which fucceeds the buffalo j then poultry : tht-y prefer cats and dogs to goats and flieep. Fiili is not eaten but by the poor, nor by them except when iheir bufinefs requires them to be upon the beach ; and then each man has a light cafting net, which is girt round his body, and with this he takes any fmall filh that comes in his way. On the 21 ft of September, we got under fail, and bent our courfe weftward. At four in the afternoon, in lat. lo deg. 38 min. S. and long. 238 deg. 28 min. W. we difcovered a fmall low ifland. In the evening of the 23d, we got clear of the iflands : and on the 28th, we fteered all day N. W. with a view of making the land of Java; and on the 30th, Captain Cook took into his poffeffion the log-book and journals, at leaft all he could iind of the officers, petty otiicers, and feamen, whom he ftridtly enjoined tofecrecy with refpedl to where they had been. At feven in the evening, we had thunder and lightning, and about eleven, by the light of the flaihes, we faw the weft end of Java. On the 2d of Oftober, we were clofe in with the coaft of Java, in fifteen fathom water, along which we ftood. In the forenoon a boat was f^^nt alhore, in order to procure fome fruit for Tupia, who was at this time extremely ill. Our people returned with four cocoa-nuts and fome plantains, for which they had paid a fliilling ; but fome herbage for the cattle the Indians gave our feamen, and aflifted them to cut it. 0^2 Wq 124 CAPTAIN COOK*S We now made but very little way till night, when the land breeze ipringing up, we failed to the E. S. E, and on the lollowino day came to an anchor in the road of Baiavia. At tiiis place we 'ound a number ot large Dutch veffels, the Harcourt Ealllndianian Irom Eng- land, which had loft her pailage to China, and cwo Ihips belonging to the private trade of our India Com- pany. The Endeavour had no fooner anchored, than a ihip wasobferved, with abroad pendant flying, Irom which a boat was diipatched to demand the name of the veflel, with that of the coiiiinander, &c. To thefe enquiries Captain Cook, gave fuch anfwers as he thought proper, and the officer who commanded the boat departed. The captain now difpatched an officer to the gover- nor of the town, to apologise for the Endeavour's not faluting J for he hr.d but three guns proper for the pur- pofe, except fwivels, uid he was apprehenfive that they would not be heard. The fliip was fo leaky, that flie made about nine inches water in an hour j part of the %lfe keel was gone ; one of her jiumps was totally ufe- lefs, and the reft fo much decayed, that they could not laft long. The officers concurring in opinion, that the fhip could not fafe'y put to fea again in this condi- tion, the captain reioived to folicit permiffion to heave her down ; but as he learned that this muft be done in writing, he drew up a petition, and had it tranflated into Dutch. On the loth, the captain and the reft of the gentle- men went on fliore, and applied to the EngliQi refident at Batavia ; this gentleman, whofe name was Leith, received his countiymen in the politeft manner, and entertained them at dinner with great hofpitality. Mr. Leith informed us, that a public hotel was kept in town, by order of the Dutch governor, at which place merchants and othc ftrangers were obliged to lodge, and that the landlord of the hotel was bound to find them warehoufes for their goods, on condition of re- ceiving ten rtiillings on every hundred pounds of their value i but as the Endeavour was a king'« fliip, her .[^ " officers ^^IBjSff**-''* »> '.-*. "" ^k- FIRST VOYAGE. 125 officers and the other gentlemen might refide where they thought proper. In the afternoon, Captain Cook attended the go- vernor-general, who received him politely, and told him to wait on the council the next morning, when his petition (hould be laid before him, and every thing he foiicited fliould be granted. ■ •. • ■- '• On die nth, Captain Cook waited on the gen- tlemen of the council, who informed him that all his requefts (hould be complied with. In the interim, the other gentlemen made a contract with "the malier of the hotel, to furniili them and their friends with as much tea, coffee, punch, and tobacco, as they might have occafion for, and to keep them a fepa- rate table, for nine (hillings a day Rngiilh money. Our Indian friend Tupia, had bicherto continued on board, on account of his diforder, which was of the bilious kind, yet he periilied in refuilng every medicine that was otTered him. Mr. Banks fent for him on (hore, in hopes that he might recover his health. While in the (hip, he was exceedingly lilt- lefs and low fpirited, but he no fooner entered the town, than he feemed as if reanimated. The houfes, the carripiges, ftreets, people, and a multiplicity of other obje6ls, wholly new to him, produced an ef- fe61: like the iuppofed power of fafcinaticn. ^'^ . .... About this time we had procured an order to the fuperintenda-it of the inland of Ouruft, where the (liip was to be repaired, to receive hei there, and by one of the (hips that failed for Holland, an account was fent to Mr. Stephens, fecretary to the Admiralty, of our arrival at this place. Here the captain found an unexpe61ed di(ficulty in procuring money for the ex- pences that would be incurred by refitting the Endea- vour ; private perfons had neither the ability nor in- clination to advance the fum required ; he therefore fent a written application! to the governor himfelf, who ordered the Shebander to fupply the captain with what money be might want out of the com- pany's treafury, .1117. ». (u •;.(!:; 'y . r', ^ .^^ . ,:^Xiai' ^ On 'K." 126 CAPTAIN COOK S On the 18th, we ran down to Ourufl, and laid the iliip along ilde of the wharf on Cooper's ifland, in order to take out her ftores. in a littje more than nine days, we began to experience the fatal eile61:s of the climate and lituation. Tupia funk on a fudden, and grew every dciy worfe ana worfe. Tayeto, his bov, was l^^ized with an intiammation on his liinas. Mr. Ranks and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and tlie two fervants of the former became very ill ; in iliort, ahiioft every perfon on board and adior*.^ fell iick in a few days, owing, as we imagined, to the low fvvampy fituation of the place. On the 26th, we creeled a tent for the fick. Tu- pia, of whofe life we began to d^lpair, dcfired to be removed to the fliip, in hopes of breathing a freer air ; however^ this could not be done, as fhe was unrigged, and preparing to be laid dowii at the ca- reening place ; but on the 28th, Mr. Banks conveyed him to Cooper's ifland, and, as he feemed pleafed with the fpot near which the fliip lay, a tent was pitched for him. On the 5th of November, after many unavoidable delays, the fliip was laid down, and the fame day Mr. Monkhoufe, our furgeon, fell a facrifice to this fatal country. Dr. Solander was juft able to attend his funeral, but IMr. Banks m his turn was confined to his bed. The power of difeafe, from the pefliferous air of the country, daily gaining ftrength, feveral Malay fervants were hired to attend the fick, but they had fo little fenfe either of duty or humanity, that the patient was obliged frequently to get out of bed to feek them. On the .9th, our Indian boy Tayeto, paid the debt of nat"rc, and Tupia was fo afTedled at the lofs, that it was doubted whether he would furvive it till the next day. ■ Dr. Solar. Jcr and Mr. Banks were now fo worn down by their diforders, that the phyficians deciared they had no chance for recovery, but by removing into the country. In confequence of this advice, a houfc )T .f' dav this tend ined rous ^eral but tof icbt hat the FIRST VOYAGE. 127 Life boufc was hired for them, at the diilance of about two miles from the town, which belonged to the mafter of the hotel, who e.igaged to fuppiy them with pro- viiions, and the ufe of Haves. As they had already experienced the unfeeling inattention of thefe fellows to the lick, they bought each of them a Malay wo- man, who, from the tendernefs of their fex, made them good nurfes. While thefe j^entlemen were taking meafures for the recovery of their health, they received an account of the death of Tupia, who funk at once after the lofs of his boy, Tayeto, whom he loved with the tendernefs of a parent : they wxre both buried in the ifland of Edam. On the 14th, the bottom of the (hip was tho- roughly repaired, and much to Captain Cook's fatis- fa6liGn, who beftowed great encomiums on the ofii- cers and workmen at the marine-yard ; in his opinion, ' Te is not one in the world, where a fliip can be laid Lxown with more convenient fpeed and fafety, nor re- paired- with more diligence and fkill. At this time Captain Cook was taken ill. Mr. Sporting alfo, and a failor who attended Mr. Banks, were feized with the deadly intermittents, and only tm of the fhip's company, were capable of doing duty. Yet, notwithftanding thefe perplexing obfta- cles, though haraffed by a contagious dife? . fliip's '^ffiW"P« FIRST VOYAGE. IZg fliip's books as havinj^ been born at EUineur. The Dutchman now took his leave, and he had not been Jong gone before the captain received a letter from the lieutenant on board, containing full proof that he was an Engiifti fubject. This letter, the captain carried to the Shebander, dcfiring him to lay it before the governor, and to inform him, that the man iliould not be deli red upon any terms whatever. This fpirited conduct on the part of Captain Cook, had the delired tiYe&. ; and thur, the matter ended. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen who had hitherto lived in the town, repaired on board the fliip, which got under fail the next mornins:. The Endeavour was faluted by the fort, -and by the Elgin Eaft Indiaman, which then lay in the road, but foon after thefe compli- ments were returned, the fea-breeze fetting in, they were obliged to come to anchor. Since the arrival of the fliip in Batavia road, every perfon belonging to her had been ill, except the fail-maker, who was more than 70 years, old, yet this man got drunk every, day while we remained there. We buried feven of our people at Batavia, viz. Tupia, and his boy, three of the failors, the fervant of Mr. Green, and the fur- geon J and at the time of the vefiel's failing, forty of the crew were fick, and the reft fo enfeebled by their late illnefs, as to be fcarccly able to do their duty. lit )'<>•'' t- n-Mu CHAP. XII. ■f An account of Batavia, and its various productions — The Endeavour fails from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope — The Cape and St. Helena defcribed — ^Jieniar/is on the Hottentots — The Endeavour returns to EniHand, and anchors in the Downs on Wednef- dav, June 12, 1771. ' '-":• '• '■"-■■'^ ■-..'? '.* ATAVIA, fitnated in 6 dcg. 10 min. S. lat. and iO(i dcg. 50 min. E. long, from the meridian of Greenwich, is built on the bank of a large bay, about twenty miles from the ftreight of Sunda, on the north _Q ■ R • fide 130 CAPTAIN cook's- iicie of (lie in:i!)d of I «"e,n| rn,ni, riv^.s, .'"h':',,"';,r" 'r ^'''SSiY ground ^ country, 'lliere .-.re „;,, ' '"f ^"-''y ""''es up the :--^'nals arc planted wl 1, ^e' ,w"' "^^ ■^■''"ks^of the •••Srcoabe i but thcfe t ee 'and ' "P'T"' "' "^ft ^erv feeler the air peliilcntiis ?",'''* combine to te Dutch appear to have W .fi'^ t.?"""'^ ' '''"^ the town on, t„r the fake oi^Znl ■ ^P°>^ *" build convenience Batavia cx'ccd^]^ T''S^' '" ^'Wch •^^cept the ,own,s of Holland '^'P''"'" '^^'^-oM. i^^. ^z t:f 0^ iS:;'\: r "^7-^ "^"""d- /his church is illumi.v, „ M^ , "'''" '^'" off at fea f"Perb vvorlcni C'". ^'j ''^ chandeliers of the n^^^" fte other public hu^^lu"^.^': ' ^"' "'S'" = '"oft of 3" 'II tafte, and .n'Tf '" ^"'•■'cnt, conftruaed hi elLimfinefs: "'"■ ^ "^'■^ «^°'"plete idea of Dutch t?.'ttr:rriSi's ^'^^'- °^ «"^"- -: pver, ,vhic'n is of dilFe e„t w d7 '^^"^ ' ^^""''''^ 'his '» 'in olM,b . >ji. ,h* ,, "I t^*,^ i A plant called the pandang is produced here, the leaves of which being flired fmall, and mixed with other flowers, the natives of both fexes fill their cloaths and hair with this mixture, which they like- wife fprinkle on their beds, and fleep under this heap of fweets, a thin piece of chintz being their only covering. Formerly the only fpice that grew on the ifland of Java was pepper. A confiderable quantity is brought from ihence by the Dutch, but very little of it is made ufe of in the country. The inhabitants prefer Cayan pepper, and are fond of cloves and nutmeg, but thefe flrff are too dear to be commonly ufed. Near the ifland of Amboyna are fome little ifles, on which the cloves grow, and the Dutch were not eafy till they all became their property. Scarcely any other nut- megs are found but on the ifland of Banda, which however furnifhes enough for all the nations that have ;i demand for that commodity. There aVe but few nutmeg- '* "^fmm-' FIRST VOYAGE. 133 fiutmcg-trccs on the coafl: of New Guinea. The illand of J;iva, of which we have already fpoken, produces horfcs, bulTaioes, iheop, goats, and hogs. The fort of horfes faid to have been met with here when tlie country was lirit difcovered, appeared to he nimble animals, though fmall, being generally feldom above thirteen hands high. The horned cat- tle of this country are different from thofe of Europe. They are quite lean, but of a very fine grain. The Chinefe and the natives of Java eat the buffalo fleft), which the Dutch conftantly refufe, being impreffed with a ftrange idea that it is feveridi. The fheep arc hairy like goats, and have long ears : they are moltly found to be tough and ill-tafted. There happening to be a few from the Cape of Good Hope at Batavia, fome of them were purchafed at the rate of oneihil- ling a pound. In this country, palm-wine and arrack are very plentiful. Of the former, there are three forts ; the lirfl: of which is drank in a few hours after it is drawn from the tree, and is moderately fweet ; the fecond and third forts are made by fermentation, and by putting feveral forts of herbs and roots into the liquor. •> In Java the religion of Mahomet is profeffed, for which reafon the natives do not make ufe ot wine pub- licly, but in private they will not refufe it. They alfo chew opium, whofe intoxicating qualities proves its recommendation to the natives ot India. Some of the Indians are very rich, keep a great number of flaves, and live, in all refpe(Sls, according to the cuilom of their countries, while others are employed to carry goods by water : and others again filblilt by filhing. The oranllams, or believers of the taith, feed principally on boiled rice, mixed with a fmall quantity of dried ilirimps and other fitli, which are imported from China, and a little of the Hefli of buffaloes and chickens ; they are fond of fruit, of which they eat large quaniities, and with the liour of the rice they make feveral forts of paftry. When 134 CAPTAIN COOK S When a marriage is to be folcmnizcd among them, all the gold and Hlver ornaments that can be prc^- curcJ, are borrowed to deck out the }()ung couple, who, on thefe occafions, never fail to make the nidft fplendid appearance ; fumptuous entertainments are given by tliofe wiio can atTord them, which contiiiue twelve or fourteen days, and frequently more, during all whicli time the Vv'omen take care that the bride- groom ihall not vifit his wife privately, though the wedding takes place previous to the feltival. On the 27th of December, early in the morning, ^ve weighed, left the harbour of Batavia, and flood out to fca. On the 29th, after much delay by con- trary winds, we weathered Pulo Pare, and ftood for the main. On the fame day, pafl'ed a fmall ifland between Batavia and Bantam, called Man-eater's iiland. On Sunday the .30th, we weathered Wap- ping and PuJo Babi iflands, and the next day, being ihc 31ft, we ftood over to the Sumatra fliore. On the ift of January, we fleered for the Java iliore, and continued our courfe, as the wind per- mitted us, till three o'clock in the afternooti of the T)thy when we caft anchor on the fouth-eaft fide of Prince's ifland, in eighteen fathom water, in order to recruit our flores, and procure refreiliments for the lick, many of whom were much worfe than they were at our departure from Batavia, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, accompanied by the captain and other gentlemen, went on fliore. We met upon the beach fome Indians, by whom we were conducted to their king. Having exchanged a few compliments with this perfon, we entered upon hufmefs ; but in fettling the price of tui'tle, could not agree. Upon this, we took leave, the Indians difperfed, and we proceeded along lliore in fearch of a watering-place. We happiJy fucceeded in finding a very convenient one, and had rcafon to believe, with care in filling, it would prove agreeable to our withes. On our return, fome Indians, who remained with a canoe upon the beach, fold us three turtles, but wc ^1S|S*»H» 1' ^ ^ong them, > Jjc pr(^- ^" the moft incjus .'ire t^ontinue e, dui ing lie britle- ough the the cvc-ninjj they nccei, ; " '"!"'","<-'h. thnt be/or- I^"* If .^ce in the middc, ■-,'"- n'"' ^''"-'"''^"^ "t '"S Hs majefty was ZnljZ 'J' ."<'^-ithft.-ind- own )uj,,,cr. The d-n- t f "."i''"pf' "i (IreUi„„. hi. "cer, and fnnie veap, 'm , ' *''"'' monkeys, (n.,i/ market every day whi^e ^,>m"T """^^ '"-"Vsht t" ^fy 'o/ethJr';!: ^Tt'e'' fc, "^r "^ -^ol- the day after our arrival ^"''' *° "'at vve bouglu On the 11th Mr p' ! . . Senee from a fe'rvant' hi"l , ?'^'"S^ '"'^'^^'^'cd ;nteli; the Indians of SS.nd h^T '"'"'' ''^ ^«-'>via, tl t ftore, to the vveftwaS J^f " '°'^" "'"ated near ,! ot the fame. wS':,^^^^' f-"" ■"" ^-' h y, accompanied by the fe™, H l^ ?"' '" '''e morn- Prehendmg i,s vilitmi^t ,°" ^'"''"""*' ■''"d ap- Ptives he told fuch of?he„ " l ' "''S'-^^able to the n fearch of plants. HaWn" , """'' "'at he was there were tlee or fotn- o'Lf ""^h? ' '"""^ ^''^"^ "W man, of whom tiiev vent, r^^ ! ^ "'^' ^^''fh ai> <|Uines concerning th7tou> fV" ™''''^'= =« few en- ^ fuaded them, that it wis a ' -, ' '^""^'^ ^ave per- perceivmg that they p oceedeH T'' ^"^''•"« ' but <^omp^ny, and went on w^H, i *°"^^''^' J>e joined ' attempted feveral t me' Zth?'' '^'^'^ "« ""an ti'ough without facccs^lf'l^"'°»tofthewHy c-ne within hghtoft^;hi"h:V' length ,he^ no tne,r party, and condafted I ■'"''"^ ^""^'"'"Y the nameof whicl) ;.- <.■. "'■["^'^ tliem mto the town f 00 honfes, and i div- d d^l.T'^' /^ T''"' °^ ^"-t ' ""> parts, one called "old' • tf'^"-"' ■'"'" ''"to ' Were 13G CAPTAIN COOK S were accoflod by fcvcral Indians wliom tlicy had fccnj at the tradiiig-[)lacc, and one of them undertook to carry them over to tlic new town, at 2d. per head. The bargain l)einf;- made, lli<.'y embarked in two fmall canoes, placed along lide each oilier, and lalhcd to- j^ether, to prevent tlieir over-letting. 'I'hcy Janded lafely, though not without ibme difficultv ; and ^vhen they came to the now town, the j)eoplc lliewcd them every mark of cordial friendlliip, llicwing them the houfcs of their king and principal people. Few of the houfes were open at this time, the inhabitants having taken up their rehdcnce in the rice-grounds, to detend their crops againil the birds and mon- keys, who without this neceifary caution would de- ftroy themj^j,,') „|i ,,,j ^,-. „ ,j,.. ^^ ,, ', , \,] '■ i- When their curiofity was fatisfied, they hired a, large failing-boat for two rupees, value 4.>». which conveyed them to the bark tinie enough to dine upon one of the fmall deer, weigliing only 401b. which proved to be exceeding good and fa voury food. In the evening we again went on fliore, to fee how our people went on, who were employed in wooding and watering, when we were told, tliat an axe h;id been llolen. Application was immediately made to ihc ^ king,- who, after fome altercation, promifed that the axe fliould be reftored in the morning -, and it was accordingly brought us by a . man, wiio pretended, that the thief, afraid of a difcovcry, had left it at his houfe in the nlj^ht. .'i^D -^f/ .^,^.. _ ■ ,4.- V '" " »^' On the i3th, having completed our Wood and water, Mr. Banks took leave of his majefly, to whon;i he had made feveral trilling prefentvS, and at parting, gave him two quires of paper, which he graciquily accepted. During their converfa-tion, the king en- quired why the Englifh did not touch at the- Ifland .is they had ufed to do. Mr, Banks replied, that the reafon was, as he fuppofed, becaufe they found a de- ficiency of turtle, of which there not beijig enough to fupply one (hip, many could not be expected ^ and to fupplv this defe6t, Mr. B^nks advifed his majeftv ' ' - ' ' to '^^P?'K?*i^->', ^IRST VOYAGE. ^37 Ihc the was ed, his iii|^> to Dreed callle, butfaloes, and ihcep ; but he did not fcein dlfpofcd to adopt this prudent meafure. r ..n .a Oil the 14th, we had got on board a good ftock of fielh provilions, confiiling of turtle, fowl, filh, two fpeeies of deer, one about the iize of a fhecp, the other not bigger than a rabbit ; alfo cocoa-nuts, plantains, limes, and other vegetables. The deer, however, ferved only for prefent ufe, for we could feldom keep one of them alive more than twenty* four hours. On the 15th, we weighed, with alight breeze at N. E. and ftood out to fea. We took our departure from Java Hv'=;r*d, which is in lat. 6 deg. 49 min. S. and in long. 253 deg. 12 min. W. ' -at {>y,t ^.^ a In the month of February, we held on our courfe, fend made the belt of our way for the Cape of Good Hope ; but now the fatal feeds of difeafe, our people had imbibed at Batavia, began to appear, with the moll alarming fymptoms, in dyfenteries and flow fe- vers. Our fituation in a fhort time was ruly deplo- rable, and the (liip was little better than an hofpital, in which thofe who did duty were too few to attend thofe who were confined to their hammocks. Many of thefe were in the laft ftage of the deftru£live dif- order ; and almoft every night we committed a body to the fea. Mr. Banks was among the number of the^ fick, and for fome time we defpaired of his life. In the courfe of fix weeks, we buried Mr. Sporing, a gentleman of Mr. Banks's retinue ; Mr. Parker, his natural hiftory painter ; Mr. Green, the aftronomer ; the boatfwain j the carpenter and his mate ; Mr. Monkhoufe, the midfliipman ; our jolly fail-maker and his alfiftant ; the cook ; the corporal of the ma^ rines ; two of the carpenter's crew ; a midlTiipman, and nine failors : in all twenty-three perfons, befides feven at Batavia. On the 15th of March, we brought the (hip to an anchor off the Cape of Good Hope. Captain Cook repaired immediately to the governor, who chearfully promifed him every refrefliment the country afforded -, 6. S' ■ -i^^.f-^-'-V :' mO T( on 138 CAl'TAiN COOK S on which :. ^.»ufe was hired for the fick, and it was agreed they fliould be lodged and boarded for 2s. each man per day. At the time the luid^avoOr lay at the Cape of Good Hope, the HoUghton Indiaman failed for Eng- land. She had bimed near forty of her crew, and when flie left the Cape^ had many of her hands in a helplefs condition, occalioned by the fcurvy. Other Jhips likeWife experienced a proportionable lofs by licknefs ; fo that our fufferings v/ere comparatively light. cotifi^ferinor that we had been near three times as long* f ' We ccyA tinned at the Cape till the 13th of April, in order to recover the lick, procure (lores, and to do fome iieeijiTary work upon th6 fliip and rigging, Wheri this was finiOied, we got all the lick on hoard, feveral uf whom were ftill in a dangerous ftate ; and ^ti the 14thj having taken cleave of the governor^ we u'n'mboi^ed a'nd got ready to fail. The hiftory of CafiVaria is well known in Europe, and a defcription of the Cape of Good Hope has been given by moft of our circum-navigators ; yet, we think an account of tbia country will be acceptable to- our numerous fubfcribers j and they will meet with fome particularis which fell under our obfervationj, that haVe either been wholly omitted, or mifrepre- fented in other narratives. ■,'•-.., . , > , / The Cape of Good Hope, which is the moft fou- thern part of Africa, was lirft difcovered A. D. 1493, by Bartholomew Diaz, admiral of a Portuguefe fleet, who, on account of the boitterous weather he met with when near it, diftinguilhed it by the name of Cabodos totos Tormcnlos, or the Cape of all Plagues ^ /ince which, no place in the univerfe had been more fpoken of. The reafon .why it has fo much attraded the attention of mariners of all nations, is, their be- ing under the neceflity of frequently calling there for water and other refrefiiments, and alfo of dou;.'' - i .'-il Ji^n t.-jThe land over the Cape, which conflitutcs the peninfula formed by Table Bay on the N. and Falfe Bay on the S. confifts of high mountains iltogether naked and defolate : the land behind thele to the E. which may be confidered as the ifthmus, is a plain of* yalt- extent, confiding almoft wliolly of a light kind of fea fand, which produces nothing but heath, and is utterly incapable of cultivation. Cape Town is the only one the Dutch have built here, and it confifts of about 10(X) houfes, neatly built of brick, whited in general on the outfide. They are covered only with thatch, for the violence of the IS. E. winds would render any other roof inconvenient and dangerous. The ftreets are broad and commo- dious, eroding each other at right angles. The houfes in general have pleafant gardens behind, and neat pourt-yards before them. .vr--y '.- :: ^ r i;*: /. ••.•jttfe: ' The 142 CAPTAIN cook's The town extends from the fea-fliore to the com» pany's garden, fpreading along Table Bay. The fort is in a valley at a fmall difrancr., its form pentagonal ; it commands the landing-place, and is garrifoned by 200 foldiers. The governor's llore-houfes are within it; other officers befides himfelf have apartments here, as well as 600 fervants. The hofpital for lick feamen is of elTcntial ufe to the Dutch fleets in going to and returning from India. i f ., . . '[■.,^.\-r> •. What is moft to be admired at the Cape, is the company's gardens, where they have introduced al-^ moft all the fruits and flowers that are found in the other three quarters of the globe ; moft of which are improved, and flourlih more than they did in their refpe6tive climates ; and the garden is watered with fprings that fall down from Table mountain juft above them. Apples and pears are planted here, with grapes of Afia, as well as thofe of Europe. Here are ahb lemons, oranges, citrons, figs, Japan apples, and a great variety of other fruits. Notwithftanding the natural fterility of the cli-' mate, induftry has fupplied this place with all the neceilaries, and even luxuries of life, in the greateft profuiion. The beef and mutton are excellent, though the oxen and Iheep are natives of the country. Good butter is made from the milk of cows, but the cheefe is inferior to ours. Here are hogs, and a great variety of poultry ; alio goats, but thefe laft are never eaten. Hares are to be found exa6\ly like thofe ii^ Europ' ; likewife many kinds of antelopes ; quails of two forts, and buzzards, all Vv'ell flavoured. The fields produce European wh at and barley ; the gardens European vegetables ; fruit of all kinds, befides plantains, guavas, jambu, and other Indian fruits. The vineyards alfo produce wines of various forts, but not equal to thofe of Europe, except the Oonllantia, which is made genuine only at one vine^ vard, about ten miles diftant from the town,^ There is another vineyard near it, where w.ae is , • , made. th "-"vmv^- I. FIRST VOYAGE. Ui made, and called by the fame name, but it is greatly inferior. , .; - < There are jrreat numbers of domeftic animals in the various colonies and fettlements at the Cape, and the woods and mouneains abound with wild beails. The horfes, which were brought originally from Per- fia, are of a bay or chefnut colour, but rather fmalL Among the wild beads, the elephant claims the firft place. The rhinoceros is of a dark alh colour, and has a fnout like a hog. At the Cape, wolves are of two kinds ; the one refembles a iheep-dog, and is fpotted like a tygcr -, the other is like an European wolf ;■'• '^•••- ■' i ' ; * '■» -JH f ■ i3 r. JJ ..< A* vi.1 J s.< . .'■'•>1 . Lions, tygers, leopards, &c. alfo abound here, and are fo troublefome, that the perfon who kills one of either fort, is rewarded with twenty-five florins, or fifty fhillings. The fieih of the 1 ion is efteemed equal to venifon, and the fat much valued. Here are mutli larger buffaloes than in Europe. We faw here elks five feet high, with horns a foot Another fingular animal is that called ftink- box, from its oflfenlive fmell both living and dead. Wild cats are of feveral forts. The firft the Dutch, called the civit cat, not that it is really the animal of that name, but becaufe of the fine fcent of the Ikin. The next the tyger cat, from its being fpotted like a tyger. The third the mountain cat, v./hich refem- bles thofe ot Europe. The fourth is the blue cat, having a fine tinge, with a beautiful red lift down its back. .^ ^/ :., •• .--;---- .^-:.- Many jackalls, ermitie^, baboons, monkeys, &c. are found about the Cape, and frequently do great mifchief in the gardens. The porciipine is very com- mon, and its tielli efteemed delicious. There are two forts of wild aflcs, one of which is a beautiful' creature, called the zebra, and is liker to an horfe than an afs ; its legs are fine, has a twifted tail, round flefliy haunches, and a fmooth fKin. The fe- males are white and black, and the males white and brown. The colours are ftrcakcd in an admirable long. > ii^tii^i: rnannjr. Hi CAPTAIN COOK S •v^ manner, fo as to appear to a diftant beholder as rf covered with ribbons. ifi A great variety of birds and fowls are found at the Cape, both wild and tame. Here are three forts of eagles ; namely, 1 . The bone-breaker, who feeds on tortoifes, to obtain the fleih of which, it ufes this lingular method ; having carried the tortoife aloft in the air, it drops it upon fome hard roekj by which means the fliell is broken, and the eagle can come ealily at its prey. 2. The dung-eagle, which tears out the entrails of animals to fubfift on, and though not bigger than a goofe, is ftrong and voracious^ 3. The duck-eagle, fo called becaufe it feeds princi- pally upon ducks. - , : - { , "n .r I .; But of all the numerous birds that are to be found here, the flamingo is one of the mod fingular. It has a long neck, and is larger than a fwan : the legs are remarkably long, and of an orange tawney^ and the feet are like thofe of a goofe : the bill contains blue teeth, with black points ; the head and neck are en- tirely white ; the upper part of the wings are of at bright flame colour, and the lower black. Now we come to fpeak of agriculture, for the Hottentots in general deteft the very idea of cultiva-* tion, and would fooner ftarve than till the ground, (o greatly are they addided to floth and indolence. The working of the plough is here fo laborious from the ftifFnefs of the foil, that it frequently requires twenty oxen to one plough. The fowing feafon is in July, and the harveft about Chiiftmas. The corn is not thraflied with a flail, but trod out by horfes and oxen, on an artificial floor made of cow dung, ftraw, and water, which, when mixed together, cements, and foon becomes perfe6i:ly hard. It is laid in an oval form. The cattle are confined by halters, which run from one to the other, and the driver ftands in the middle, where he exercifes it long ftick to keep them continually to a quick pace. By this method, half a dozen horfes will do more in one day than a dozen men can in a week. The h-.J •;^ / TIRST VOYAGE, I45 '"* The women in general are very handfome : they have fine clear fkins, and a bloom of colour that indicates a "purity of conftitution, and high health. They make the beft wives in the world, both as miftrefles of a fa- mily and mothers, and there is fcarcely a houfe that does not fwarm with children. There are iixteen Hottentot nations, which inhabit this fouthern promontory. The ftature of the Hotten- tot men is from five to fix feet high ; their bodies are proportionable, and well made j they are feldom either too fat or lean, and fcarce ever any crooked or deformed perfons amongft them, any farther than they disfigure their children themfelves, by flatting and breaking the griftles of their nofes, looking on a flat nofe as a beauty. Their heads, as well as their eyes, are rather of the Jargeft : their lips are naturally thick ; their hair bhick and fhort Hke the negroes, and they have exceeding white teeth. ,,./'S''' '' /^p'J^' ':^*'''*: ': * The women ai'e much lefs tlian the men ; and what is mod remarkable in tliem, is a callous flap or ikin that falls over the pudendftj and in a manner conceals it. The report of which ufually excites the curiofity of the European failors to vifit the Hottentot villages near the Cape, where a great many of thofe ladies, on feeing a ftranger, will offer to fatisfy their curiofity for a luilf- penny, before a cfowd of people. When a Hottentot brings a fon into the world, there is great rejoicing ; but the tirfl: thing they do with the child, is to daub it all over with cow-dung ; then they lay it before the fire, or in the fun, till the dung is dried : after which they rub it off, and walh the child with the juice of certain herbs, laying it in the fun, or before the fire again, till the liquor is dried in ; after which they anoint the child from head to foot with butter, or iLeep's fat melted, which is dried in as the juice was ; and this cuftom of anointing their bodies with fat, they retain afterwards as long as they live. After the child has been thus fmeared andgreafed, the mother gives it what name flie thinks proper, which is ufually the name of fome wild bcaft, or domeftic animal. When the wo- 7 T man 146 CAPTAIN cook's man is well again, and able to leave her hut, flie rul^s herlclF with cow-dung ; and this filthy daubing is by thele delicate people termed a purification. Being thus perfumed, and elegantly decorated with flieep's guts, (he is permitted to go abroad, or to fee company at home. If the woman has twins, and they are girls, the man propofes it to the kraal, that he may expofe one of them either upon pretence of poverty, or that his wife has not milk for them both ; and in this they indulge one another ; they do the fame when they have a boy and a girl, but always preferve the boys, though they hap- pen to have two at a birth. The expofed child is car- ried to a diilancc from the kraal j and if they can find a cave or hole in the earth, that fome wild beaft has made, they put the child alive into it ; and then having flopped up the mouth of the den with ftones or earth, leave it there to ftarve. ■ V They do not deal thus, however, as has been ob- ferved, by their male children ; on the birth of a boy, they kill a bullock, and if they have twins, two bui- Iccks ; and make an entertainment for all the neigh- bourhood, who congratulate the parents on their good fortune ; and, as with us, thegreateft rejoicings are on the birth of the firft fon. At the age of eighteen, the male Hottentots being deemed men, are admitted into male fociety : tue men of the village fquat down, and form a circle, as is ufual upon public occaiions ; the youth fquats down without the circle, at fome diflance. The oldeft man of the kraal then rifes from the circle, and, having obtained the general confent for the admiflion of a new member, he goes to the youth, acquaints him with the determina- tion of the men of the kraal, and concludes his harangue with fome verles, which admonilh him to behave like a man for the future. The youth being then daubed with foot and fat, and fprinkled with urine, is congratulated by the company in general in a kind of chorus, which contains the fol- lowing wiihes : that good fortune may attend him, that ■■ . J?e ~^fl*^ ^if 1 1 FlkST VOYAGE. 147 he may live long, and thrive daily ; that he may loon have a beard, and many children, till it is univerfally allowed he is a ufeful man to the nation. A feaft con- cludes the ceremony, but the youth himfelf is not per- mitted to participate of any part thereof till all the reft are fcrved. Having been thus admitted into the male fociety, it is expedled that he fliould behave ill to women in gene- ral, and to his mother in particular, in order to evince his contempt of every thing feminine. Indeed it is ufual for a youth, as foon as admitted, to go to his mo- ther'r hut, and cudgel her heartily, for which he is highly applauded by the whole kraal ; and even the fuffering parent herfelf admires him for his fpirit, and protefts that the blows do not give her fo much painj as the thoughts of having brought fuch a mettlefome fon into the world affords her pleafure. The more ill treatment he gives his mother, the more efteem he ob- tains ; and every time he ftrikes her fhe is in the higheft raptures, and thanks Providence for having blelTed her with fuch a fpirited child. The Hottentots are exceeding fuperftitious, and fond of divination. In order to know the fate of a fick perfonj they flay a flieep alive ; after having its ikin en- tirely taken off, if the poor animal is able to get up artd run away, it is deemed a propitious omen j but, on the contrary, if the excruciating pain kills it, they imagine that the patient will certainly die, and accordingly give him up entirely to nature, without taking any further care of him. Whatever they believe of departed fouls, they have no notion either of heaven or hell, or of a ftate of re- wards or punifliments ; this is evident from the beha* viour of a dying Hottentot, and thofe about him ; nei- ther he or his friends offer up any prayers to their gods for the falvation of his foul j or mention the ftate of de- parted fouls, or their apprehenfions of his being happy or miferable after death : however, they fet up terrible howlings and^ fliriekings when the fick man is in his laft agonies j and yet thefe very people are frequently guilty Ta of ^- . . .-' ■«'"'.. 148 CAPTAIN cook's of murdering their ancient parents, as well as their in- nocent children ; for when the father of a family is be- come perfedly ufelefs and luperannuated, he is obliged to aflign over his (lock of cattle, and every thing elfe he has in the world, to his eldeft fon ; and in default of fons, to his next heir male : after which, the heir ere<5ls a tent or hut in fome unfrequented place, a good diftance from the kraal or camp he belongs to ; and, having af- fembled the men of the kraal, acquaints them with the condition of his fuperannuated relation, and defires their confent to expofe him in the diftant hut ; to which the kraal fcarce ever refufe their confent. Whereupon a day being appointed to carry the old man to the folitary tent, the heir kills an ox, and two or three (heep, and invites the whole village to feaft and be merry with him ; and at the end of the entertainment, all the neighbour- hood come and take a fonnal leave of the old wretch, thus condciiined to be ftarved or devoured by wild beads : then the unfortunate creature is laid upon one of their carriage oxen, and carried to his laft home, at- tenilcd to the place where he is to be buried alive, by moll of his neighbours. The old man being taken down, and fct in the middle of the hut provided for him, the company return to their kraal, and he never fees the face of a human creature afterwards ; they ne- ver fo much as enquire whether he was ftarved to death, or devoured by wild beafls : he is no more thought of, than if he had never been. In the fame manner they deal with a fuperannuated mother ; only as (lie has no- thing Ihe can call her own, flie has not the trouble of adigning her effedls to her fon. Whenever the Hot- tentots are upbraided with this unparalleled piece of bar- barity, they reply, it would be a much greater cruelty to iufter an old creature to languifh out a miferable life, and to be many years a dying, than to make this quick diipatch with them ; and that it is out of their extreme tenderncfs they put an end to the lives of thefe old wretches ; all the argument .in the world againl^ the inhumanity of the cullom, can make no impreflfidn on thcni : and, indeed, as long as the Dutch have refided . ' ' ••■■■'-: ''■<'-' at atl or otl it fee is usi pe t-r ?IRST VOYAGE. 149 at the Cape, they have not been able to break them of one (ingle cuftom, or prevail with them to alter any part of their condudl, how barbarous or abfurd fof'ver : and, it feems, the captain of a kraal is not exempted from feeing his funeral folemnized in this manner, while he isahve, if he happens to become ufelefs. And this leads us to treat of fuch funerals as are folemnized after the perfon is really dead. The fick man, having refigned his breath, is im- mediately bundled up, neck and heels together, in his flieep-fkin mantle, exceeding clofe, fo that no part of the corpfe appears : then the captain of the kraal, with fome of the feniors, fearch the neighbouring country for fome cavity in a rock, or the den of a wild bead, to bury it in, never digging 3. grave, if they can finii one of thefe within a moderate diftance. After which, the. whole kraal, men and women, prepare to attend the corpfe, leldom permitting it to remain above ground more than fix hours. When all things are ready, all the neighbourhoocl aflemble before the door of the de- cealed, the men fitting down on tlieir heels in one circle, and reding their elbows on their knees (their ufual porture) as the women do in another : here they clap their hands, and howl, crying, Bo, bo, bo ; (i, e, father) lamenting their lofs. The corpie being then brought out on that fide the tent, where the perfon died, and not at the door, the bearers carry him in their arms to the grave, the men and women follow it in different parties, but without any manner of order, crying all the way. Bo, bo, bo I and wringing their hands, and performing a. thoufand ridiculous gellures and grimaces, which is frequently the fubjecl of the Dutchmen's mirth ; it being impoflible, it is faid, to- forbear laughing at the antic tricks they fliew on fucU an occafion. Having put the corpfe into the cavity prepared for it, they flop up the mouth of it with ant hills. Hones, and pieces of wood, believing the ants will feed on the corpfe, and foon confume it. The grav© being flopped up, the men and women rendezvous aoain before the tent of the deceaied, where they repeat ... ".. „ thciii m. -ii- iSO CAPTAIN cook's their hovvilng, anj frequently call upon the nattie of their departed friend : alter which two of the oldefl men get up; and one of them going into the circle of the men, and the other into the circle of the women, urine upon every one of the company; and, where the kraals are fo very large, that two cannot find water enough for this ceremony, they double or treble the number. Then the old men go into the tent of the dcccaled; and, having taken up fome alhes from the fire-place, they fprinkle them upon the bodies of the people, bleflTing them as they go; and, if the de- ccafed was a perlon of diftindion, tliis is a<5ted over again feveral days. But we fliould have remembered, that the ceremony always concludes with an entertain- ment. If the deceafed had any cattle, a flieep is killed on the occafion; and the caul being powdered with buchu, is tied about the heir's neck, who is forced to wear it while it rots off, which is no great penance, all ftinks being perfumes to a Hottentot. All the rela- tions a!fo wear the cauls of fheep about their necks; which it feems is their mourning, unlets the children of the deceafed are fo poor, that they cannot kill a flieep ; and then they ftiave their heads in furrows of about an inch broad, leaving the hair on of the fame breadth be- tween every furrow. "'- - It is not an eafy matter to come at an Hottentot's religious notions; he is fparing of his words, and laco- nic in his anfwers upon all occafions ; but when reli- gious topics are introduced, he generally conceals his lentiments in filence. Some on this account have doubted whether the Hottentots have any religion at all; but the moft intellio.ent amono; the Dutch at the Cape poffitively affirm, that they believe in a Supreme Being, whom they ilile Gounya Taquoa, or a God of Gods, and fancy that his place of refidence Is beyond the moon. They allow Gounya Taquoa is a humane benevolent being, yet they have no mode ofworfliip- ping him; for which they give this reafon, "That he curied their firft parents for having greatly offended him, on which account their pofterity have never from that time paid him adoratior." They believe that the mooa mo| the I wcai feal thisl nev^ andl a tei| ihe\ deit] com| for prayj clapT ever; ling FIRST VOYAGE. 151 moon is an inrerlor vifible god, and the rcprefcntativc of the high and inviiiblc : that (he has the dircdion of the weather i and therefore they pray to her when it is un- feafonablc. Thty never fail to afllmble and worfliip this planet at the new and full moon, let the wcatlicr be never (o bad j and though diey dillort their bodies, grin, and put on very frightful looks, c;yingand howling in a terrible maniier, yet they have Ibnie cxpreflTions that ihew their veneration and dcpendance on this inferior deity; as * iMutfchi Atze, 1 falutt you; you arc wel- come; Chcraqua kaka chori Ounqua, firant us {)afturc for our cattle and plenty of milk.' Thelc and other prayers to the ir.oon they repeat, frequently dancing and clapping their hands all the while ; and, at the end of every dance, crying. Ho, ho, ho, ho ! raifing and fal- ling their voices, and ufing abundance of odd gcllures, that appear ridiculous to European fpedlators; and which no doubt, made them at firll, before they knew ?^ny thing of tl'.eir language, conclude, that this could not be the etieCt of devotion, efpecially when the people themfclves told them, it was not an adl of religion, but only intended for their diveriion. They contmue thus fliiMiting, finging and dancing, with proftrationson the earth, the whole night, and even part of the next day, with lome Ihort intervals, never relling, unlefs they are quite ipent with the violence of the adion; and then they Iquat down upon their heels, holding their heads between their hands, and refting their elbows on their knees ; and, after a little time, they ftart up again, and fall to linging and dancing in a circle as before, with ait^ dieir mifht. Tlie f lottentots alfo adore a fly about the bignefs of a hornet, ca'led by fome the g(5ld' beetle; whenever they lee this infjcl approach their kraal, they all afiemble ub Hit ir, and fing and dance round it while it remains there, ilrewing over it the powder of buchu, by bota- nifls called ipira^m ; which when it is dried and pul- verized, they always powder themfelves with it at fefti- vals. They fcrcw the fame powder alfo over the tops of their tents, and over the whole area of the kraal, as f*^.- X: a tefti mony ii >**"i rjOOl,'"' i5i CAPTAIN cook's a teftimony of their veneration for the adored fly. They facrifice alfo two flieep as a thankfgiving for the favour thewn their kraal, believing they Ih.iW certainly profper after fuch avifit : and, if th'j infedl happens to light upon a tent, they look upon the owner of it for the future as a faint, and pay him more than ufual ref- pe6t. The beft ox of the kraal alfo is immediately ia- crificed, to tcflify their gratitude to the little winged deity, and to honour the faint he has been pleafed thus to diftinguifli : to whom the entrails of the bead, the choiceft morid in their opinion, ' with the fat and the caul is prefentedj and the caul being twifted like a rope, the faint ever after wears it like a collar about his necl: d:;y and night, till it putrifies and rots off-, and th^ faint only feails upon the entrails of the bead, while the reft of the kraal feed upon the joints, that are not in fo Jjigh efleem among them : with the fat of the facrifice alfo the faint anoints his body from time to time, till it is all fpent ; and, if the fly lights upon a woman flie is no lefs reverenced by the neighbourhood, and entitled to the like privileges. It is fcarcepoflible to expreis the iigonies the Hottentots are in, if any European attempts to take or kill one of thele infeds, as the Dutch will fometimes leem to attempt, to put them in a Iright : they will beg and pray, and tall proftrate on the ground, to procure the liberty of this little creature, if it falls into a Dutchman's hands; they are on fuch an occafion, in no lefs conflernation than the Indians near Fort St. George, when the kite with a white head, vyhich they worlliip, is in danger. If a foldier takes onr*. of thefe alive, ai\.d threatens to wring thc^ neck of it oif, the In- dians will gather in crowds about him, and immediately coiledl the value of a Ihiiiing or two, to purchafe the liberty of the captive bird they adore. But to return to the Hottentots: they imagine if this little bird fliould be killed, all the cattle would die of difealcs, or be de- ilroyed by wild beads; and they themlelves (liould be the molt miferable of men, and look upon tn^t kraal to be doomed to fome imminent misfortune, \\ here this animal ieldom appears. " ,: > '■^'^"' ' ' ' The I » T. .' lon, St. ley leie In- riRST VOYAGE. , I53 The Hollanders have fent feveral reverend divines to the cape as millionaries, who have fpared no pains to bring tlie Hottentots off from their idolatry, and induce them to embrace ChriftianitVi even their covetoulnels and ambition have been applied to, and temporal re- wards offered them, on ccMulition of their being inflruc- ted in the principles of Chriftianity. But no motives whatever, whether thole relating to this or another ftatc, have yet been able to make the lead impreffion on any one of them : they hold fall and hug their ancient lli- perftitions, and will hear of no other religion. The reafon that they neither imitate the Europeans in their building, planting or cloathing, is becaule they ima- gine tl;iemfelves to be religioufly obliged to follow the cuftoms of their anceftorsj and that, if they Qiould devitite from them in the leift of thefe matters, it might miike way for a total change of their religion and man- ners, which they cannot think of without abhorrence. One of the Dutch governors at the Cape, bred up an Ht^tjten tot from his infancy, obliging him to follow the f^Haions and cuftoms of the Eino|;eans, to be taught i^vcral language?, and to be lully inllrudcd in the prin- ci[>ies of the Ch.rlllian religion, cloathing him hand- ibmely, and treating him, in all refpedts, as a perfon for whom-he had a high eftcem ; and let him know, that he defigned him for fome beneficial and honourable employment. , The governor afterwards fent him a voyage to Batavia, where he was employed, under the commiffary his friend, for fome time, till that gentle- man died; and then he returned to the Cape of Good Hope : but, having paid a vifit to the Hottentots of his relations and acquaintance, he threv* off all his fine cloaths, bundled them up, and laid them at the gover- nor's feet, and defired he would give him leave to re- nounce his Chriftianity, and hve and die m the religion and cuftoms of his anccftors ; only begged the governor would give him leave to keep the hanger and collar he wore for his fake ; which while the governor was deli- berating with himlelf upon, fcarce believing the tcilovv to be in earneft, the young Hottentot took the oppor- 7. U iumiy 154 CAi ^AIN COOK S tunity of running aww) , and never "came to the Cape afterwards, thinking himfelf extremely happy that he had exchanged his European cloaths for a Ihcep fkin, and the reft of the Hottentots drefs and ornaments; the Englifh Eaft India company, we are informed, made the like experiment, bringing over two of that nation hiither, whom they cloathed decently after the Euro- pean manner, and ufed them, in all refpeds, with the greateft goodnels and gentlenefs, hoping, by that means to be better informed of the condition, of their country, and whether it might be worth the while to make a fettlement there : but the two Hottentots only learnt Englifli enough to bewail their misfortune in being brought from their country and their friends; and, after tvvo years trial of them, being again fet on (hore at the Cape, they immediately ftripped off their Euro- pean cloaths, and, having taken up the (beep mantle again, rejoiced beyond meafure for their happy efcape from the Englifti. '^^^m- t?. ,^i ^nry^ '^ , ,,,,. ,.:-, ,' The poor Hottentots fometimes employ themlelves in making arms, viz. bows and arrows,, lances and darts,. bartcFing them with the rich for cattle, to begin; the world with : others get elephants teeth, and what they do not ufe in making rings and ornaments for them- felves, are generally difpofed of, it is thought, to the Pbrtuguefe, and other Europeans who touch at Terra de Natal, and other parts of the eaftern or weftern Goaft. The Hottentots fell very few teeth to the Dutch ; thoUj^h it is manifeft they kill abundance of elephants: they fupply the Hollanders however with cattle, and take wine, brandy or tobacco, in return ; and an ox may be purchafed of them for a pound of tobacco, and. a large Iheep for half a pounds /*.«.,'. -.nv^.i,-?^' ,,V.Lf -''- As to coin, the reader will conclude they hme none; nor do they ever fee any, unlefs: fome fmall pieces of money the Dutch fometimes give them for their wages at the Cjlpe ; and it muft not be forgot, that the Hot- tentots find abundance of oftrich*s eggs in the fand, which they barter with the fea-faring men, that touch at the Cipe, for brandy and tobacco; every failoralmpft being WffWWI^-K 'W TIRST VOYAGE. ^S5'^ being prcmd of bringing home one of thcfe egg (bells to his friends, after he has fried and eaten the yolk, whi^ makes a large pancake, and is pretty good food, but n^: ther of the ftrongell. Their butchers are faid to be great artifts in their way, and to handle a knife as dexteroufly as an anato- mift : haying tied the hind and fore legs of a Iheep, they throw the creature on his back, and with cords two of them extend it to its full flretch, while a third rips it up; fo that all the entrails appear: then, with one hand, he tears the guts from the carcafe, and with the other flirs the blood, avoiding, as much as he can, the breaking any of the blood-velfels about the heart; fo that the fteep is a long time a dying : in the mean time he gives the guts to another, who juft rids them of the filth, and rinces them in water, and part of them are boiled and eaten amongll them, before the (heep is well dead: having fcooped the blood out of the body of the animal with their hands or lea (hells, they cut the reft of the guts in fmall pieces, and ftrew them in the blood, which is the Hottentots favourite di(h. An ox alfo is killed in the fame barbarous manner ; being thrown upon his back, and his legs extended with cords, he is ripped up, and his guts taken out firft j in which cruel operation the beaft is half an hour a dying: they feparate the parts v/uh great exadnefs, dividing the fle(h, the bones, the membranes, mufcles, veins, and arteries, and laying them in feveral parcels, every thing entire. The bones alfo are taken out of the flefh, and laid together in fuch order, that they might be eafily formed into an exaft fkeleton : thefe they boil by them- felves, and get the marrow out of them, with which they anoint their bodies. Of the (heep Ikin, as has been obferved already, they make a mantle, if it be large ; but, if it is fma-li, they cut it into thongs, to adorn their women's legs : and the hide of an ox fervcs either to cover their tents, or to make girts or ftraps of, with which they bind their baggage on their carriage oxen when they decamp; and, if they have no other ufc for their ox-hides, they lay them by, and eat them when they want other food. U 2 They *, 156 CAPTAIN cook's They have another artificer, who is both fehnongcr and taylor : that is, he dreflcs fkins after their way, and then makes them into mantles : he takes a (lieep fliinjuft flayed off, and, rubbing it well with fat, the fkin becomes tough and fmooth ; and if it be for one of his countrymen, he rubs it over alfo with frefli cow- dung, and lays it in the lun till it is dry: then he rubs it with fat and cow dung again; which he repeats fe- veral times, till it becomes pcriedly black, and ftinks fo that no European can bear it ; and then, with a little fhaping and lewing, it is a compleat mantle for a Hot- tentot : but, if it bedreiredfor a Dutchman, he only rubs the fkin well with fat, which fecures the wool from coming off. If he be to drefs an ox's hide, he rubs the hairy fide with wood aflies; then I'prinkliag it with water> rolls it up, and lays it a day or two in the fun; whicli expedient efiedually brings off the hair; this fkin is then well grcafed, flretched out, and dried again, when it is deemed good leather. Their fmiths do noi onlylfadiion their iron, but melt it from the ore : they find plenty of iron flones in feve- ral parts of their country ; and having got a heap of thefe, they put them into a hole in the ground, heated and prepared for the pqrpofe : then they make a fire over theftones, which they fupply with fuel, and keep it up till the iron melts ; and then it runs into another hole, which they make for a receiver, a little lower than the firfl : as foon as the iron in the receiver is cold, they break it to pieces with flones; and, heating the pieces again in other fires, beat them with ftones, till they fliape them into the heads of lances, darts, arrows, and bows, and luch weapons as they ufe ; for they fcarce ever form any other utenfds, but arms of this metal : they get the hardeft flat ilone, according to Monfieur Vogel, and, laying the iron upon it, as upon an anvil, beat it with another round flone, which ferves them for a hammer ; then they grind it upon the flat ftone, and polilh it as nicely as any European artificer could do with all his tools : tliey have lome copper ore too, which they melt in like manner: but they make only toys and '^ \ \ ' • ^ • > I. ornaments til f< n( fol fir orl hi^ cu| m( FIRST VOYAGE. 157 ornaments for their dre(s of this metal : nor, indeed, do they ever work in iron, but when they want weapons. They would never labour, if their necelFities did not lometimes compel them to it ; buC, when rhey do, no people work harder, or more indciatigably ; tor for they never leave a piece of work till they have finifiied it. The ivory-turner makes the ivory ring'-i that are worn ornamentallv about the arms; and coiifiderin" that his only tool is a common clafp knife, wliich he pro- cures from the Dutch, the workmaidhip has great merit. . .1 .t :*........ ... • • The potter, or maker of earthen vcilcls, h anotl.er art; but this, it feems, they are all dexcrous at, every, family making the pots and pans they wani. For riiele they ufe only the earth of ant-hills, clearing them of all fand and gravel ; after which they work it together with bruifed ants eggs, that are laid to conilitute an extraordinary cement. When they have iiouiJed thefe materials into a kind of parte, they take as much of them as will make one of their pots, and lath ion it by hand upon a flat ftone, making it of the form of a Ro- man urn; then they imooth it within and without very carefully, not leaving the leall roughnels upon the fur- face; and, having dried it in the iun two or three days, they put the pot into a hole in the ground, and burn it by making a fire over it; and, when they take it out, it appears perfettly black: every family alfo make their own mu.s, with which they cover their tents or huts; but this is chielly the bulineis of the women : ihey ga- ther the flags and rulhes by the river fide, and weave or plat them into mats fo clofcly, it is laid, that neither the weather or li^ht can»pcnctratc them. The lad artificer we Hiall mention is the rope-maker, Vv'ho has no better materials tlian fuch -flags and rufhes ^s the mats are made of; and yet they appear almoit AS flrong as thole mac'c of hemp : tb.e Dutch, at the Cape, buy aiid ufe th'^ra in plowing, and in draught- jCarnages. :j.^,,. / ,.. . i .. , .j;.'^|,,,. ,.^ii: . . , -. . r C 'i *" • ? m. 158 CAPTAIN COOK S t:^" As to the way of travelling here, the natives all travel on foot, except the aged and infirm; and thefe are carried on their baggage oxen. As there are no inns or places for refrefhment, the travelling Hottentot calls at the kraals in his way, where he meets with a hearty welcome from hiscountrymen, who endeavour to Ihew their hofpitality toftrangers, whether of their own country or of Europe. Such indeed is the general ur- banity of thefe people, and their ftrid integrity when any confidence is placed in them, that when the Hol- landers travel either on foot or horfeback, if they can- not reach an European fettlement, they alfo call at the kraals of the Hottentots, where they are complimented with a hut, and fuch provifions as they have j or they may lie in the area of the kraal, in the open air, if they pleafe, and the weather be good ; and here they are fecure, both from robbers and wild beads ; for the Bulhis banditti on the mountains are dangerous, as they give no quarter ; but the Hottentot nations in general hold them in abhorrence, and unanimoully concur in feizing and puni(hing them upon all occafions. Their language is very inarticulate and defedive j one word fignifies feveral things, the definitive meaning being determined by the manner of pronouncing ; and the pronunciation is fo harlh and confufed, that they fecm to ftammcr in all they fpeak. Hence, though they are eafily taught to underftand other languages, they can feldom be brought to fpeak them with any degree of intelligibility. ; ■...■,..', ,. • rr .\... We Ihall here fubjoin a fmall Hottentot vocabulary, for the fatisfadion of the curious j khauna, fignifies a lamb; kgou, a goofe ; bunqvaa, trees; knomm, to hear ; quaqua, a pheafant ; tkaka, a whale ; horri) beads in general ; knabou, a fowling-piece ; qua-ara- ho, a wild ox ; ouncqua, the arms ; quienkha, to fall ; likhanee, a dog ; konkequa, a captain ; q.uas, the neck j quan, the heart ; kgoyes, a buck or doe ; tikquoa, a god ; komma, a houfe ; khoaa, a cat; kowkuri, iron ; konkerey, a hen ; thoukou, a dark night ; tkoume, rice ; ghoudie, a (licep ; toya, the wind ^ ttkaa, a val- ley j FIRST VOYAGE. 159 fey ; tkaonolclau, gunpowder ; kamkamma ; the heart ; quaouw, thunder ; duckatere, a duck, kamma, water ; quayha, an afs ; naew, the ears ; kirri, a Hick ; nombha, the beard ; ka-a, to drink ; duriefa, an ox ; hek-kaa, an ox of burden ; ounvie, butter ; houteo, a fea-dog ; bikgua, the head ; kamma, a flag ; konquil, a pigeon ; anthuri, to-morrow ; kou, a tooth ; kha- mouna, the devil ; hakqua, a horfc j koo, a fon ; kammo, a ftream ; tika, grafs ; toqua, a wolf ; koan- qua, the mouth ; khou, a peacock ; gona, a boy ; gois, a girl ; khoakamma, a baboon ; kerhanchou, a liar i mu, an eye ; tqi^.ffouw, a tyger. ' *-• • • • ; The Hot* ' have only ten numerical terms, which they repv^. e to exprefs the multiplication of the firft term, and > nrce times to exprefs the re-mul- tiplication of the latter. Their terms arc: q'kui, one; k^kam, two ; kouna, three ', kakka, four ; koo, five ; nanni, fix ; kounko, feven j khiffi, eight j khaffi, nine ;. ghiffi, ten. Thus have we given a circumftantial and full ac- count of the Cape, its inhabitants, productions, and adjacent country , from whence the French at Mauri- tius, are fupplied by the Dutch with falted beef, bif- cuit, flour, and wine : the provifions for v/hich the French contracted this year were five hundred thoufand lb. weight of fait beef, four hundred thoufand lb. of flour, four hundred thoufand lb» of bifcuit, and one thoufand two hundred leagers of wine. We have only to add to this account a few obfervations on the bay and garrifon. The former is large, fafe, and exceeding con* venient. It is indeed open to the N. W. winds, but rhcy feldom blow hard ; yet as they fometimes occafion a great fea, the (hips moor N. E. and S. W. The S.lfc. winds blow frequently with great fury, but their diredion being right out of the bay, prevents them from being dangerous. For the convenience of landing and (hipping goods, a wharf of wood is run out near the towh, id a proper diftance. Watetis conveyed in pipes to this wharf, and many krge boats and hoys arc kept by the company to darry Itdres and provifions to '^t*,'^ *" '^''■'■' ^'' ■■"• -'•'-' '-'''o^ ; c 1' .j f . . ...'.':' and •♦*• "■<: .'•- .^v«w» 160 CAPTAIN COOKS and from the lliippingin the harbour. This bayijs co- vered by a Ir.all fort on the E. fide of the town, and clofe to tlie beacli ; and is alfo defended by feveral out- works and l)atteries extending along the thore, as well on this iide the town as the other; neverthelefs they are by their fituarion expofed to thefliipping, and in a manner deiencclels againft an enemy of any force, by land. As to the garrifon, this confifts of eight hun- dred regular troops, befides militia of the country, in which hill is comprehended every man able tO' bear arms. By fignals they: can alarm the country in a very fhort time, and when they are made, the militia is to repair immediately to their place'^of Tendezvdus in the town. ' '' * • •- '• -' On the 14th of April, in the morning, we Weighed, flood out of the .bay, and aiichored at five in the even- ing under Penguin, or Robin illand. Here we lay all night, and being prevented from failing by the wind, the captain difpatchcd a boat to the ifland for a few trifling articles, which we had omitted to take in at the Cape ; when our people drew^near the fhorc, they were warned by the Dutch not to land at their peril. At the fame time lix men armed with mufkets, paraded upon the beach. The commanding officer in the boat did not think it prudent to rifk the lives of the men on account of a few cabbages, and therefore returned without them to the ih'ip. To this illand.the Dutch at the Cape banifh fuch cri- minals as are not thought worthy of death, for a certain number of years, according to the nature of their crimes. They are employed as Haves in digging lime-flones, which, though Icarce upon the continent, is here in great abundance. ADanilh (hip touched at this ifland, 'having been refufed afliilance at the Cape, and fending iitl" boat on Ihore, overpowered the guard, and then toolc as many ot the criminals as were neceflary to navi- gate her home ; for flie had loft great part of her crew by ficknefs. To this incident -We attributed our re- pulfe, concluding, that the Dutch'; 'to prevent a fimilar refcue of their prifoners, had ordered their garrifon at »'?"5i.'., - . • r » , ■ • this flRSt VOYAGE. It3l by this place, not to fufFer any boat of foreign natioi^s to land the crew, and come afliore. On the 25th, we put to fea, and about four o'clock in the afternoon died our mafter, Mr. Robert Moli- a youth of good parts, but unhappily for his neux, own felf prefervation too much addifted to intemper- ance, a habit we would caution all thofe who under- take long voyages to avoid, if they have any regard to perfonal fafety. We now continued our voyage with- out any other remarkable incident, and on the 29th, we crofled ourfirll meridian, having circumnavigated the globe from E. to W. and confequently loft a day* for which, upon correcting our reckoning at Batavia, we made an allowance. On the 1ft of May, we came to anchor at break of day, before James's fort, in the ifland of St. Helena, and as we propofed to refrefli here, Mr. Banks employed his time in vifiting the nioft remarkable places, and in furveying every objeft worthy of notice. Sti Helena is fituated in the Atlantic ocean, in 6 degrees W. long, and 16 S. lat. almoft in the midway between Africa and America, being 1200 miles dif* tant from the former, and 1800 from the latter. It was fo named by the Portueuefe, who difcovered it . on St. Helen's-day. This uland is^ thirty-fix miles long, eighteen broad, and about fixty-one in circum- ference. It is the fummit of an immenfe mountain rifing out of the fea, and of a depth unfathomable at a fmall diftance round it. It may be difcerned at fea, at above twenty leagues diftance, and looks like a caftle in the middle of the ocean, whofe natural walls are of that height, that there is no fcaling them. The fmall valley called ChapeWalley, in a bay on the eaft fide of it, is defended by a battery of 40 or 50 great guns, planted even with the water, and the waves daftiing perpetually on the fliore, make it diffi- cult landing even here. There is alfo another little creek, where two or three may land at a time, but this is defended by a battery of five or fix guns, and rendered inacceflible. ',• ■' 4"' i62 CAPTAIN cook's No anchorage is found any where about the ifland, but at Chapel-valley bay, and as the wind always fcts from the S. E. if a (liip overfhoots the ifland ever fo little, flie cannot recover it again. The feat of vol- canoes has been found to be the higheft part of the countries in which they are found. Hecla is the higheft hill in Iceland, and the Peak of Teneriffe is known to be the covering of the fubterraneous fire. Thefe are ftill burning : but there are other moun- tains which bear evident marks of fire that is now cxtin6t : among thefe is St. Helena, where the ine- qualities of the ground, and its extern-I furface, are evidently the effefts of the finking of the earth, and that this was caufed by fubterraneous fire, is equally manifcll, from the ftones, or fome of them, efpecially thofe from the bo.ttom of the vaUies, are burnt almoft/ to cinders. -'i.'Ot ? ; n^ la.i: :•!•• < . . i^ m' ■•• ,-*':■,/ This ifland, as the Endeavour approached it on the windward fide, appeared like a rude heap of rocks, bounded by precipices of an am;i ng height,- and confifting of a kind of ftone, whicli flicws not the lealt lign of vegetation. Sailing along Ihore, we came near the huge cliffs, that feemed to overhang . the (hip. At length we opened Chapel-valley, which" refemulcs a trench, and in this valley we difcovered- the town. The fides of it are naked as the cliflfs next the fea, but the bodv is fliarhtlv cloathed with herbac^e. Ln lU prefent cultivated ftate, fuch appeared the ifland to us, and the firit hills muil be pafl^ed, before the country difplays its verdure, or any other marks of fertilitv. " ;.: t v.: i^c ii.'^^v :pi^ /?c:fi, .» "^1:1 • ' ",..ji;iJ'j' in Chapel*valley, a little beyond the landing-place, is a fort where the governor refides with the garrifon, and the town ftands jult by the fea-fide. The greater part of the houfeS are ill built. The church, which was originally a mean rtru6ture, is in ruins, and the market-place nearly in the fame condition. The town conlifts of about forty or fifty buildings, con- flrucled after the Englifli fafliion, whither the people of the ifland refort when any fliipping appears, as weli FIRST VOYAGE. 163 h well to aflTift in the defence of the ifland, as to enter- tain the feamen if they are friends : for the governor has always fentinels on the higheft part of the ifland, to the windward, who give notice of the approach of all fliipping, and guns are thereupon fired, that every man may refort to his poft. It is impoifible for an enemy to approach by fea in the night-time, and it difcovered the day before, prcparation^.are fpeedily made for his reception. . • ' •■- '-t ' Notwithftanding the ifland appears a barren rock on every fide, yet, on the top it is covered with a fine Jayer of earth, producing grain, fruits, and herbs of various kinds ; and the country after wc afcended the rocks, is diverfified with rifing hills and plains, plan- tations of fruit trees and kitchen gardens, among which the houfes of the natives are interfpcrfcd, and in the open fields are herds of cattle grazing, fome of which are fatted to fupply the fliipping, and the reft furnifli the dairies with milk, butter, and cheefe. Hogs, goats, turkeys, and all manner of poultry, alfo abound, and the feas are well ftored with fifli. But amidft all this atfluence, the people have neither bread nor wine of their own growth ; for though the foil is proper for wheat, yet the rats that harbour in the rocks, and cannot be deftroyed, eat up all the feed beforfc the grain is well out of the ground : and though their vines flourifli and produce them grapes enough, yet the latitude is too hot for making wine. This they have therefore from the Canaries, the Ma- deiras, or the Gape, as well as their flour and malt. Their very houfes are fome of them brought from Eu- rope ready framed, there being no timber on the Jfland, trees not taking deep root here, on account of the rock that lies fo near the furface : however, they have, underwood enough for neceflary ufes. Be- fides grapes, they have plantains, bananas, figs, le- mons, and fuch other fruits as hot countries ufually produce.' *'iit*^v;(^ftfv J-jVl'-ff" ^" In the year 1701, there were upon the ifland about 200 families, mofl: of them Englifli, ordefccnded from . : X2 - Engliflv IGi CAPTAIN cook's Englifli parents. Every family has a houfe and prarr- tation on the higher part of the ifland, where they look after their cattle, fruits, and kitchen garden. They fcarce ever come down to thp town, unkfs it be to church, or when the fliipping arrives, when moft of the houfes in the valley, are converted into punch-houfes, or lodgings for their guefts, to whom they fell their poultry, and other commo/iities : but they are not fuffered to purchafe any raerchandife of the lliips that touch here. ' ' • . ,:^nu} i Vtd ■>'.- r. Whatever they want of foreign growth or manu- fa6lure, they are obliged to buy in the company's warehoufe, where twice every month they may fur- iiifli themfelves vvith brandy, European or Cape wines, Batavia arracks, malt, beer, fugar, tea, coffee, china, and japan ware, linen, calicoes, chintz, muflins, rib- bands, woollen cloth, and fluffs, and all manner of cloathing, for which they are allowed fix months cre- dit. Among the very few native produftiOns of this ifland mufl be reckoned ebony, th<)ugh the trees are now nearly extindt. Pieces of this wood are frcr quently found in the valli^ of a fine black colour, and hardnefs aJmoft equal to iron 5 theffe pieces, however, are fo (iwtt wd crooked, that no ufe c^n be niadei ofthe'm. i';^! ' ^ >-'' :-'<\:r '■')■':>}. ■'r^?jr/^'j*\ There are a few infers here,, but upon the tops o£ the highefi; ridges a fpecies of fnail is found, which has probably been there fince the original creation of their* kind. It is indeed very difficult to conceive how any thing not formed here, or brought hither by the dili^ ffence of man, could find its way to a place fo fevered kom the reft of the world, by feas Off inimenfe extent^ The Portuguese, who difcovercd this ifland in 1 502", IJored it 'with hogs, goats^ ^nd poultry, and ufed toi touch at it for water and frefli provifions in their re- turn from. India, but we do not find they ever planted a colony here, or if they did, having deferted it after- Wcirds, the Englilh Eail-India Company took pofTeffion <;^i: the i/land A. U. ICIOO, and held it till 1673, with-' an( roa .^i**'^ FIRST VOYAGE. 165 out interruption, when the Dutch took it by furprizc. However, the Englifli, commanded by Captain Mun- den, recovered it again, within the fpace of a year, and took three Dutch Eaft India ihips that Jay in the road at the fame time. The Hollanders had forti- fied the landing place, and placed batteries of great guns to prevent a defcent: but the Englifli being ac- quainted with a fmall creek where only two men could go a-breaft, climbed up to the top or the rocks in the night time, and appearing next morning at the backs of the Dutch, they threw down their arms, and furrendered the ifland without ftriking a ftroke : but as we have before obferved, this creek, has been fmce fortified : fo that there is now no place where an ene- my can make a defcent with any probability of fuCCefs.' .'H A'tir/*' .-'nis-ir-, /, •• ,/ . ,, •\.i. The affairs of the Eail-India Company are mana- ged here by a governor, deputy-governor, and Itore- houfe-keeper, who have certain fettled falaries allow- ed, befides a public table, we'l furniihed, to which all comm.iiiders, mafters of fiiips, and eminent paf- fengers arc welcome. The mafters of the plantations keep a great many blacks, who, upon fevere treatment, hide themfelves for two or three months together, keeping among the rocks by day, and roving by night for provifions : but they are generally difcovered and taken. The children and defcendants of white people have not the leaft red in their cheeks, in all other pla- ces near the tropics : but the natives of St. Helena are remarkable for their ruddy complexions and ro- builconftitutions. Their healthfulncfs may, in gene- I'al, 'be afcribed to the following caufes. They live on the top of a mountain always open to the fea bree- zes that conftantly blow ";-3re : they are ufually em- ; ployed in the moft healthful exercifes of gardening and hulbandry: the ifland is frequently refreflied with moderate cooling fliowers, and no noxious fens • aOiT fait marllies annoy them, ;S ' * • As 166 CAPTAIN COOK S As to the genius and temper of thefe people, they fecnied to us tlie moll honeft, the moft inoffenlive, and the molt hofpitabJe people we ever met with o-f Englilh extraction, having fcarce any tindture of ava- rice and ambition. We aiked fome of them, if they had no curiofity to fee the reft of the world, and hovv they could confine themfelves to fo fmall a fpot of earth, feparated at fuch a diftance from the reft of mankind? They replied, that they enjoyed th^ ne- cefl'aries of life in great plenty: they were neither parched with excefiive heat, or pinched with cold ; they liv d in perfeft fecurity, in no danger of ene- mies, of robbers, wild beafts, or rigorous fcafons; and were happy in the enjoyment of a continued ftate of health : that as there were no rich men among them (fcarce any planter being worth more than 1000 dol- lars) fo there was no poor in the illand, no man being worth lefs than 400 dollars, and confequently not obliged to undergo more labour than was neceftary to keep them in health. Our thoughts were now employed on returning to our native ihore ; and having fufficiently recruited our ftorcs, on Saturday the 4th of May, we w^eighed, and failed out of the road in company with the Port- land man of war, and his convoy, confifting of twelve fail of Eaft-Indiamen. With this fleet we continued our courie tor England until Friday the 10th, when when perceiving they outfailed us, and confequently might make their port before us, Capt. Cook for this reafon, made the fignal to fpeak to the Portland, upon which Capt. Elliot came on board the Endea- vour; to whom a letter for the Admiralty was deli- vered, with a box, containing the common log books of the fliip, and the journals of fome of the ofHcers. We did not lofe fight of the fleet till the 23d, when they parted f^om us; and about one o'clock in the afternoon, wj loft our firft lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, an attive, fkilful, judicious, and ufeful officer. He died of a confuLiption, of which lingering diforder he dif- covered FIRST VOYAGE. 167 siiovered fome fymptoms when he left England ; fa that it may be truly faid, that he was dyhig the whole voyage. The whole ihip's company attended the funeral rites, and in the evening we committed his body to the fea with the ufual .ceremonies. 'I'he next day the Captain appointed Mr. Charles CJcrk, a young man, to a6t in the room of Mr. Hicks. We now eyery day drew nearer our defired ha- ven; but what mult be the condition of our once good fhip, the Endeavour, may ealily be imagined, from a flight recol!e6fion of the hardfliips {be had furmounted, and the dangers llie had providentially efcaped. At this time our rigging and fails were fo weather-beaten, that every day fomething was giving way. However we held on ourcourfe Vvithout any material occurrence that might endanger our fafeiy, till Monday the 10th of June, when to our great joy, Nicholas Young, the boy who difcovered New Zea- land, called out land from the mail-head, which proveci to be the Lizard. The next day, being Tuefday the llth, wc pro- ceeded up the channel. On Wedn.efday the 12th, with the pleafmg hopes of feeing our relatives and friends, exciting fenfations not to be defcribcd by the pen of the moit able writer, we paffed Beachy Head, At noon, to our inexpreflible joy we were a-breail of Dover ; and about three o'clock, P. M. we came to an anchor in the Downs. When we landed at Deal, our (hip's company indulged freely that mirth, and fociable jollity, common to all Englilh failors upon their return from a long voyage, who as readily for- get hardddps and dangers, as with alacrity and bra- very they encounter them. We cannot clofe this book, without dulv confider- ing the wonderful protefcfion of the Endeavour in ca- fes of danger the moft imminent, particularlv when- encircled in the wide ocean, with rocks of coral, her flieathing beaten off, and her falfe keel iioating by her lide, a hole in her bottom, and the men by turns :•..'' fainting \t 1C8 CAPTAIN cook's fainting at the pumps, cannot but acknowledge the exHtence of particular Providence. This our country- men experienced, and we have good authority to af- fert, that our company in the Endeavour do acknow- ledge, that the hand of fuperior power was particu- larly concerned in their protection and deliverance. This omnifcient and omnipotent power is the incum- bent duty of every chriftian to believe, confide in, and adore. END Of the first voyage. . \ ' ■•SnIL^-C"* ( I t ??^::t> •■■'ii V.' V* ,• •.■V «/... •f''-i\ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE TOWARDS THE South "Pole and Round the Worlds &^Ci Begun the 9th of April, 1772, and concluded on the 31ft of July. 1775, INTRODUCTION. THE King's expectations were not wholly an- f we red by form,er difcoveries, which were fo highly blazoned both at home and abroad, and there- fore his majefty projected this fecond voyage of Capt. Cook, the navy-board was ordered to equip two fuch fhips as were moft fuitable to the fervice. Accord- ingly two velTels were purchafed •, the largeft of the two named the Refolution, burthen 462 tons, anJ fent to Deptford to be fitted out ; and the Adventure SC'j tons, equipped at Woolwich. On tlie 28 of Nov. 1771, Captain Cook was ap- pointed to thj command of the Refolution ; and To- bias Furneaux, who had been fecond lieutenant with Captain Wallis, was promoted to the command of the Adventure. The Refolution had 112 hands on board, officers included: and the Adventure 81. In tho former, James Cook was captain, Robert P. Cooper, Charles Clerke, and Richard Pickerfgili, were appointed lieutenants. Jofeph Gilbert was mafter j James Grey, boaifwain ; Jam.es Wallis, Car- penter ; Robert Anderfon, gunner; and James Pat- ten, furgeon. In the Adventure, Tobias Furneaux was captain, Jofeph Shank, and Arthur Kemp, lieu- tenants; Peter Fannin was appointed mailer, Edward $ Y „ Johns, 170 CAPTAIN COOK S If Johns, boatfvvain, William Oflerd, carpenter, An- drew Gloag, gunner, Thomas Andrews, furgeon. The two (hips were got in readinefs with the ut- moft expedition, and both the navy and vi61ualling boards paid an uncommon attention to their equip- ment. Indeed Captain Cook failed with greater ad- vantages in this expedition, than any of his predecef- fors who had gone out before on difcoveries. He had the frame of a veffel of 21 tons, one for each ^iip> to fcrve occafionally, or upon any emergency, to ferve as tenders: he had on board lilliing nets, lines and hooks of every kind ; he was fupplied w^ith innumer- able articles of fmall value, adapted to the conniierce of the tropical Iflands. The two iliips were vi6lual- led and provided w^ith all manner of necefiaries for a three years voyage. A propofed voyage attended with fuch extraor- dinary preparations, patronized by parliament, as well as royal bounty, and the execution of which be- ing fuperintended by the firft officers of the admiralty, the navy, and by Captain Cook himfelf, we do not hefitate to pronounce one of the moft important that ever was performed In any age, or by any country; and we may alfo with truth affert, that the able na- vigator made choice of by his majeily, was equal to the tafii in which he was embarked. Every thinking perfon cannot but admire his fkill, his fortitude, his care of his men, his vigilance in attending \,o the mi- nuted intimations of former navigators, his perfever- ance amidft the dangers and hardlbips of .rigorous feafons, his prowefs in leading his company juft fo far as they w^ere capable of proceeding; in lliort his condu6l throughout, which, while he kept every man lingly in ftrift obedience to his duty, he conciliated the alleftions of all, and fecured their eftcem. The hiltory of his fecond voyage, which we arc now about to fubmit to the judgment of our numer- ous fubfcribers, will, we are perfuaded, confirm the truth of this opinion. CHAP. L './ ^i"' f, .. Captain Cook took every necelTary precaution for the prelervation of our health, by airing and drying the Ihip with fires made be- tween decks, and by making the crew air their bed- ding, and walli their cloaths, at every opportunity. Two men were punlihed on board the Adventure 5 one a private marine for quarrelling with the quarter- mailer 5 the other a common failor, for theft. Each of them receiving one dozen. This we mention to fliew what fl:ri6t difcipline it was neceflliry to pre-- ferve on board, in order to eftablidi a regular and peaceable behaviour in fuch hazardous voyages, when men, unaccufiomed to controul, are apt to prove ^ mutinous. On Tuefday, September the 8th, we croffed the - line in longitude 8 deg. W. Some of the crew, who had never palled the line before, were obliged to un- * dergo the ufual ceremony of ducking j but fome bought themfelves off, by paying the required forfeit of brandy. Thofc who fubmitted to an immerfion, found it very falutarv^, as it cannot well be done too often in warm we-ither, and a frequent change of linen and cloaths is exceed"ng refrefiiing. On the 14th, a flying filb (sill on our deck ; we caught feve- ral dolphins ; faw fume aquatic birds ; and, at vari- ous intervals, obfervcd the lea covered with number- h{6 animals. On Sundiiv the 27tb, a fail was difco- vered SECOND VOYAGE. 177 ♦vered to the W. (landing after us ; flie appeared to he a fnow, and fliewcd cither Portujjucfe colours, or St. George's cnfign. We did not tbiife to wait tiil (he approached nearer, or to fpeak to her On Monday the J2tt/, the weadier being calm, ive amufed ourfe!ves with fliootinej ka-fowl. We were now accompariied hy f.'^t/ waters, pintadoes-, &c. and by a fmall grey i>< i* rel. This laft is lefs than a pigeon, has a grey back^ whitifli heUy, and a black ftroke acrofs from the cipof the wmg to that of the other. Thefe arc foiithern birds, and, we be- lieve, never feen within the tropics, or north of the line. They vifited us in great flights ; and about the fame time we faw feveral animals of the molufca kind, within our reach, tog^'ther with a violet co- loured fliell, of a remarkable thin texture, and there- fore feems calculated to keep the open fea, and not to come near rocky places, it being eafily broken. Saturday the 17th, we difcovered a fail to the N. W. which horfted Dutch colours. She kept us company two days, but on the third we oat-failed her. From the 12th to this day, we had the wind between the N. and E. a gentle gale. On Wednefday the 2 1 ft, our latitude was 35 de^. 20 min. S. and our longitude 8 deg. 4 min. 30 fee. E. From this time to the 23d, the wind continued eafterly, when it veered to the N. and N. W. After fome hours calm, we faw a feal, or as fome thought, a fea lion. The wind now fixed at N. W. which carried us to our intended port. As we drew near to the land, the fea fowl, which had accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us : at leaft, they did not appear in fuch numbers ; jior did we fee gannets, or the black bird, commonly called the Cape hen, till we were nearly within light of the Cape. On Thurfday the 29th, at two o'clock P. M. we made thf^ land of the Cape of Good Hope, a particular defcription of which is given in the firfl voyage. The Tc ble Mountain, over the Cape Town, bore £. S. E. diftt;nt twelve or fourteen leagues ; had .' J IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k /, {./ ^.^\ A Va fA 1.0 |28 |Z5 IM 12.2 | 4i I I.I \ -^ ilM IL25 i 1.4 1.6 V <^ /a W/ Photograpliic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) 872-4503 \ ^ o c.^ '^* '^ ■% fA 178 CAPTAIN cook's it not been ohfcured by clouds, it might, from its height, have been ieen at a much greater diltance. Friday the 30th, we flood into Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, and anchored in five fathom water. We were now vifited by the mafter- attendant of the fort, fome other officers belonging to the company, and Mr. Brandt. This laft gentleman brought off to us many articles that were very accept- able ; and the mafter attendant, as is cuftomary, took an account of the two fliips, enquiring particu- larly if the fmail-pox was on board, adiforderdread- cd above all others by the inhabitants of the Cape ; for which reafon a fur^^eon alwavs attends on thefe' VllitS. This day. Captain Cook fent an officer to wait upon Baron Plettcnberg, the governor, to inform him of our arrival, to which he returned a polite anfwer ; and on the return of our officer, we faluted the fort with eleven guns, which compliment was acknow- ledged by the fame number. ■ • ■' ' ' Having vilited the governor and fome of the prin- cipal inhabitants, we took up our abode at Mr. Brandt's, the ufual refidence of mod officers belonging to En-'^lifh fhips. With rofpe6t to accommodation, this gentleman fparcs neither pains nor expence, in order to favour him with their company. We con- certed meafures with Mr. Brandt for fupplying us with provifions, Sec. all which he procured without del;th, a heavy ftorm came from the N. N. W. with a few intervals of moderate wea- ther, fornearly a week. On Sunday, December the (5th, we were in lat. -18 dcg. 41 min. S. and in 18 dcg. 24 min. E. long. The ftorm continued, and the roaring of the waves, together with hail, rain, and a great agitation of the veil'cl, were circumftances that rendered our fituation difngreeable. A boy in the fore part of the Ihip, hearing a noifc of water running among the chefts, turned out, and found himfclf half way up the leg in water ; upon which all hands worked at the pumps, but the watt^r increafed upon us. This was at laft difcovered to come through a fcuttle in the boat- fwain's ftore-room. This gale, attended with hail and rain, continued till the 8th with fuch fury, that we could carry no fails ; and being driven by this means far to the eailward of our intended courfe, not tlie leafl hope remained of our reaching Cape Circum- eii'ion. Our diftrefs was augmented by the lofs of a great part of our live flock we had brought from the Cnpe. Every man felt the efle6ts of the fudden tran- fition from warm to extreme cold weather; for which reafon an addition was made to the men's allowance" of brandy in both ihips. ' " '' . On the morning of the 7th, the fun gave us a flatteiirjg profpc6i of fcrene weather ; but our expec- tations foon vaniOicd ; the barometer was unufually low ; and bv one o'clock P. M. the wind, which was at N. W. blew with fuch violence, as obliged us to ItrJke our tn[)-gajlant-mails. On the 8th, the gale was fomcwhat abated ; but the fca ran too high for us to carry more than the forc-top-mafl ftay-fail. On rlie fnh, at three A. M. we wore ihip to the fouthward, fliowers of fnow fell, with fqually wea- ther. At eight, made fignal for the Adventure to make fail. On the 10th, made another fignal for her to lead, and faw an iceland to the wcftward of us, in 50 dcg. 40 min. S; lat. and 2 deg. E. long, of the SECOND VOYAGE. ^1 i5r the Cape of Good Hope. The weather being hazy. Captain Cook, by lignal, called the Adventure under our ftern j a fortunate circumftance this ; for the fog increafed fo much, that we could not difcern an ifland of ice, for which we were fleering, till we were lefs than a mlie from it. The fea broke very- high againft this if and of ice, which Captain Fur- neaux took for land, and therefore hauled off from it, till he was called back by fignal. We cannot deter- mine with precifion on the height or circumference of this ice ifland ; but in our opinion, fuch large bodies muft drift very flowly, for, as the greateft part of them are under water, they can be little affe6bed either by the winds or waves. It being neceflary to proceed with great circumfpeftion, we reefed our top-fails, and upon founding, found no ground with 150 fa- thoms. On the nth, in 51 dog. 50 min. S. lat. and 21 deg. 3 min. E. long, faw fonie white birds, and paffed another large ifland of ice. The birds were about the fize of pigeons,, with blackifli bills and feet. Captain Cook thought them of the petrel kind, and natives of thefe frozen feas. The difmal fcene in view, to which we were unaccuftomed, was varied as well by thefe birds, as feveral whales, which made their ap- pearance among the ice, and afforded us fome idea of a fouthern Greenland. But though the appearance of the ice, with the waves breaking over it, might afford a few moments pleafure to the eye, yet could not fail filling us wit!i horror, when we relledled on our danger j for the (hip would be daihed to pieces in a moment, were flle to get againft the weather fide of one of thefe iflands, when the fea runs high. On the 14th, aboat washoiftedout for two gen- tlemen to make fome obfervations and experiments. While they were thus engaged, the fog increafed fo much, that they entirely loft fight of both of the fliips. Their fituation was truly terrific and alarming, as they were only in a fmall four-oared boat, in an im- menfe ocean, furrounded with ice, utterly deftitute o£ K i 182 CAPTAIN cook's of provifioRS, and far from any habitable fliore. Thejr made various efforts to be heard, and rowed about for foiiie time, without effed ; they could not fee the length of their boat, nor hear any found. They had neither mad nor lail, only two oars. They determined to lie llill, as the weather was calm, and hoped that thefliips would not fwim out of iight. A bell founded at a dif- tance, which was heavenly mulic to their cars. They were at lall taken up by the Advfinture, and thus nar- rowly efcaped thofe extreme dangers. We flood to the South on the 17th, when the wea- tlier was clear and ferene, and faw feveral forts of birdsj which we were unacquainted with. The fkirts of the ice fcemed to be more broken than ufual, and we failed among it mofl part of the day ; but were obliged to fland to the northward, in order to avoid it. On the iSth we got clear of tlie ice, but was car- ried among the ice iflands, which it was di/Iicult to keep ckar of. In the Greenland (eas, fuch ice is found all the fummer long, and it cannot be colder there in fum- mer time than it is here. Upon tlic iuppofition that this ice which we have been (peaking of is generally formed in bays and rivers, we imagined that land waa not far from us, and the ice alone hindered our ap- proaching it. At lalt we determined to fail to the eaflward, and afterwards to the fouth, and, if we met with no land or impediment, there to get behind the ice, that this matter might be put out of doubt. We found the weather much colder, and all the crew complained of it. Thofe jackets which were too fliort were lengthened with baize, and each of them had a cap made of the iame flufJ', which kept them as warm as the climate would admit. Scorbutic fymptoms appearing on fome of the people, the furgeons gave them Ircfli wort every day, made from the malt we took with us for that purpole. We flood once more to the fouthward on the 2 2d inflant. On the 23d, we hoilted out a boat to make fuch experiments as were thought necelTary. We ex- amined SECOND VOYAGE. 183 amlncd fevcral fpeclcs of birds, which we had (liot as they hovered ro'ind us with teeming curiofity. The 25th, being Chriftmas-day, we were very chear- ful, and notwithftanding the furrounding rocks of ice, the failors fpent it in lavage noile and druiikennefs. On the 26th, we failed through large quantities of broken ice. We were flill furrounded with iflands, which in the evening appeared very beautiful, the edges being tinged by the fetting fun. We were now in lat. 58 deg. 31 min. S. Or\ the 29th, the commanders came to a refolutlon, provided they met with no impediment, to run as far weft as Cape Circumcifion, fince the fea feemed to be pretty clear of ice, and the diftance not more than eighty leagues. On this ifland we faw a great number of penguins. The fight of thele birds is laid to be an indication of the vicinity of land. This may hold good where there are no ice iflands, but not fo when there are any, for there they find a refting-place. We will nc^. determine whether there are any females among them at fo great a diftance from land, or whether they go on fliore to breed. On the 31ft, we ftood for this ifland again, but could not take up any of the loofe ice, for the wind in- creafed fo confiderably, as to make it dangerous for the fliips to remain among the ice ; befides which, we dif- covered an immenfe field of ice to the north, extending further than the eye could reach. We had no time to deliberate, as we were not above two or three miles from it. ' ■ On the I ft of January 1773, the gale abated, but there fell a good deal of fnow and fleet, which froze on the rigging of the fliips. The wind continued moderate the next day, and were favoured with a fight of the moon, whole face we had not feen lince we left the Cape of Good Hope. We were now in 39 deg. li' min. S. lat. and in 9 deg. 45 min. E. long. On the 8th, we pafted more ice iflands, which became very familiar to us. In the evening, we came to one which had a vait quantity of loofe ice about it -, and '• • ,' as / i84 CAPTAIN cook's as the weather was moderale, we brought to, and fenit the boats out to take up as much as they could. Large piles of it were packed upon the quarter deck, and put into cafks, from which, after it was melted, gat water enough for thirty days. A very Httle fait water adhered to the ice, and the water which it produced was very frefli and good. Excepting the melting and taking away the ice, ihis is a mod expeditious method of fupplying the (hips with water. We obferved here feveral white whales, of an immenfe fize. On the lyth, we crofled the antartic circle ; and advanced into the fouthern frigid zone, which to all former navigators had remained impenetrable. We could fee feveral leagues around us, as the weathej: was tolerable clear. In the afternoon, we faw the whole fea covered with ice, from S. E. to S. W. We faw a new fpecies of the petrel, of a brown colour, with a white belly and rump, and a large white fpot on the wings j we faw great flights of them, but never any of them fell into the fliips. We called it an- tartid petrel, as fuch numbers of them were feeq thereabouts. [n the afternoon, we faw thirty-eight ice iflands, large and fmall. This immenfe field was compofed of different kinds j fuch as field-ice, as fo called by the Greenlanders, and packed ice. Here we faw feveral whales playing about the ice, and ftill large flocks of petrels. Our latitude was now 67 deg. 15 tnin. S. We did not think it prudent to perfevere in a fouthern direction, as that kind of fummer which this part of the world produces was now half fpent j and it would have taken much time to have gone round the ice, fuppofing it pradlicable ; we therefore refolved to go directly in iearch of the land lately difcovcred by the French. On the 29th, feveral porpoifes pafTed up with amazing fwiftnefs ; they had a large white fpot on their iides, which came almofl up to their backs. They went at lead three times as fall as our velTels, and we went t < SECOND VOYAGE. 1S5 xsrent at tlie rate of feven knots and a half an liour. On the 3 1 ft, we pafled a large ice ifland, which, at the time of our faihng by, was tumbling to pieces. Tiie explofion equalled that of a cannon. On the ifl:. of Feb. we law large quantities of fea weed floating by the fliips. Capt. Furncaux acquainted Capt. Cook, that he had fecn a' number of divers, which very much refemblcd thofe in the Englifli fcas, and likcwife a large bed of floating rock-weed. Thefe were certain figns of the vicinity of land ; but could not tell whether it was to the E. or W. We imagined that no land of any extent lay to the W. becaule the fea ran fo high from the N. E. N. N. W. and W. we therefore fceered to the E. lay too in the night, and re- lumed our courfe in the morning. We (leered north- ward, and made fignal for the Adventure to follow, as file was rather thrown altern by her movement to -the cailward. We could not lind land in that dircdlion, and we again fleered fouthward. There was an ex- ceeding thick fog on the 4th, on which we lofl Ught of the Adventure. Wc iiied Icvcral iionals, but were not anfvvercd j on which account we had too much rea- fon to think that a feparation had taken place, though we could not well tell what had been the caufe of it. Capt. Cook had directed Capt. Furncaux, in cafe of a feparation, to cruize three da^s in that place he lafl faw the Refolution. Capt. Cook accordingly made Ihort boards, and fired halt hour guns till the afternoon of the yth, when the weather cleared up, and the Ad- venture was not to be feen in the limits of that horizon. We were obliged to lie too till the loth, and notwith- Handing we kept firing guns, and burning falfe fires all night, we neither faw nor heard any thing of the Adventure, and were obliged to make fail without her, which was but a difmal profpect, for we were now expofed to the danger of the frozen climate with- out the company of our fellow voyagers, which be- fore had relieved our fpirits, when we confidered that we were not entirely alone in '^afe we loft our own vef- fel. The crew univerfally regretted the lofs of the S '" ■"'. A a Adventure; I' ) iSO CAPTAIN cook's Adventure ; and they feldom looked around the ocean* without exprcfling fome concern that we were alone on this unexplored expanfe. Nothing material happened to us, but various changes of the weather and climate, till the 25th of March, when land was feen from the maft-head, which greatly exhilcrated the fpirits of our failors. We lleered in for the land with all the fail we could carry, and had the advantage of good weather, and a frafli gale. The captain miltook the bay before us for Du/ky Bay, the ifland that lay at the mouth of it having. deceived him. We now proceeded for Dufky Bay, in New Zealand,. but with much caution as we advanced nearer the land. We pafled feveral iflands, &c. and two leagues up the bay an officer was fent out to look for anchorage, which he found, and fignificd it by fignal. Here we anchored in 50 fathom water, and very near the Qiore.- This joyful circumftance happened on the 26th of March, after we had been 117 days at Tea, and failed 3660 leagues, without fo much as once feeing land. We had much reafon to be thankful to the Divine Pro- vidence, that no untoward accident had befallen us,, and that our ; were in good health. GHAP ir. J narrative of ivhat happened in Du/Icy Bay — Liter- views icilli t/ie Jiatives — Sails to Charlotte's Sound — Is there joined by the Adventure — TranJ actions in this place — Capt. Furneaiix's narrative — The Jhips proceed to tlie ijland of Otaheite, and their anrivat tliere — Are in a critical fituation. -»'< THE country appeared beautiful and pleafant*. The iflands we palfed, before our entrance into Dufky Bay, were (haded with evergreen, and covered- with woods i the various fliades of the autumnal yellow, intermixed SECOND VOYAGE. 187 intermixed with evergreens, exhibited a delightful contrail. As foon as we anchored wc taught great numbers of fifli, which eagerly took the bait laid For them. Our firft meal upon filh here was looked upon as the mod delightful we had ever made. Capt. Cook did not like the place in which we anchored, and fent Lieut. Pickerfgill in fearch of a better, which he foon found. The captain liked it, and called it Pickerfgill harbour. This we entered on the 27th of March, by a channel which was fcarcely tw'ce the width of the (hip. In this place we determined to (lay fome time, and examine it thoroughly, as no one had ever entered it before, or landed on any of the fouthren parts of this country. Our fituation was admirable for wood and water. Our yards were locked in the branches of trees, and near our ftern ran a delightful ftream of frefli water. We made preparations on (hore for making all neceffary obfervations, and perform necelTary re- pairs, &c. &c. We had not hitherto feen any appearance of inhabi- tants ; but on the 28th, fonie of the officers went on a (hooting party in a fmall boat, and difcovered them, and returned to acquaint Capt. Cook therewith. Very fhortly a canoe came filled with them, within mufket Ihot of the fliip. They flood looking at us for fomc time, and then returned ; we could not prevail upon them to come any nearer, notwithftanding we fliewed them every token of peace and friendQiip. Capt. Cook with feveral officers and gentlemen, went in fearch of them the fame day. We found the canoe hauled upon the riiore, where were feveral huts, with fire places and fifliing-neti, but the people had probably retired into the wood'i. We made but a fhort (lay, and left in the canoe fome medals, looking glafles, &c. not chufing to fearch any further. Two parties went out the next day, but returned without finding any thing worth noticing. i88 CAPTAIN COOK S i I On the 6[\\ of April wc made a fliooting party, and found a capacious cove, were wc lliot levcral ducks j on which account wc called it Duck Cove. We had an interview with one man and two women, as we re- turned in tiie evening, who were natives, and the firft tliat difcovered thcmielvcs ; aud had not the man hal- looed CO us, wc fliould have paflcd without feeing them. Tiic man Itood upon the point of a rock, with a club in his hand, and the women were behind him with rpcars. As wc approached, the man difcovered great figns of fear, but (tood i'rm; nor would he move to take uj) fome things that were thrown to him. His fears were all didipated by Capt. Cook's going up to embrace him ; the captain gave him fuch things as he had about him. . The officers and feamen followed the caj)ta!n, and talked fonie time to them ; though they could not underftand them. In this converfation, the youngcftof the women bore the greateft fliare. A droll iailor remarked, that the women did not want tongue in any part of the world. We were obliged to leave them on the approach of night ; but before we parted, iVlrs. Talkative gave us a dance. On tlie yth we iv,3.dQ them another vifit, and prer fcnted them with feveral things; but they beheld every thing wiih indiffv^rcnce, except hatchets and fpike nails. We now law all the man's iamily, as we fuppofed, which confiftcd of two wives, the young woman we mewtionc(J before, a boy about fourteen years old, and three liiKill children. Excepting one woman (who had a large wen upon her upper li{)) they were well favour- ed i on account of her dilagrceable appearance, (lie icemcd to be neglcOlL-d by the man. We were con-^ ^.luiled to their habitation, which confided of two mean liurs, jltuatcd near the ikirts of a wood. Their canoe lay in a Iniall creek, near the huts, and was juft large enough to tranlport the whole family from place to place. A gentleman of our party made (ketches of them, which occafioned their calling him Toe Toe ; which, it feems, is a word vshich iignifies marking or painting. On taking leave, they prefentcd Captain C00I9 SECOND VOYAG K. l8tj Cook with feme trifles, and a piece (>( cldth of their own nanur.iclurc ; and poiiUcil to a l:)()iU clo.ik which he wiflicd to have, ^'iie hint was taken, and one was ordered to be made for him of rvd hatze. On the 0th we paid tlie natives another vifit, and fignificd our approach by hallooing to them ; but they neither met us on ihore, nor anfwered us as ulual ; the reafon of which was, that their time was fully occu- pied in drefling themlclvcs to receive us. They had their hair combed and oiled, ftuck with white feathers, and tied upon the crowns of their heads, and had bunches of feathers (luck in their ears. We were received by them with great couriefy in their drefs. The man was fo well pleafed with the prclcnt of the cloak, that he took his patta-patoe irom his fide, and gave it to Capt. Cook. We continued here a little time, and took leave, fpending the reft of the day in furveying the bay. On Monday the 12th, this family paid us a vifit in their canoe, but proceeded with caution as they ap- proached the fliip. We could not by any means per- lUade them to come on board, but put: afhore iri a little creek near us. Capt. Cook ordered the bagpipes to play, and the drum to beat; the latter only they regarded. They converfed very familiarly (though not well under- flood) with fuch officers and feamen as went to them, and paid a much greater regard to lome than to others, we fuppofed that they took luch for wbmen. One of the females fliewed a remarkable fondnefs for one man in particular, until fhe found out his fex : after which (he would not let him approach her. We cannot tell whether fhe had belore taken him for a female, or whe- ther, in difcovering himlelf, he had taken fome liber- ties with her. In the evening, the natives of Dufky Bay took up their quarters very near our watering-place, which was a clear proof that they placed a great deal of con- fidence in us. We pafled two or three days in examin- ing the bay, in making neceffary experiments and obfer- yatioas. We likewifc (hot great quantites of fowl. On 3'90 CAPTAIN COOK S 1i 'II 1 f M t On the 19th, the man and his daughter before men- tioned ventured on board our fliip, while the reft of the family were fifhing in the canoe. Before the man would come into the (hip, he flruck the fide of it with a green branch, and muttered fome words, which wc took for a prayer; after which he threw away the branch and came on board. They viewed every part of the cabin with apparent curiofity and furprize j but Vie could not fix the man's attention to any one thing for a moment. All we Ihewed him feemed beyond his comprehenfion, and the works of nature and art were alike regarded. The ftrength and number of our decks and other parts of the (hip, feemed to ftrike him with . furprize. The man was ftill better pleafed with hatches and fpike-nails, than any thing our (liip produced; when he had once got polTefiiion of thefe, he would not quit them. Capt. Cook and three other gentlemen left the (hip as foon as they could difengage themfelves from the vilitors, whom they left in the gun-room, and went out in two boats to examine the head of the bay ; at which place they took up their night's lodging ; the next day they continued their obfervations ; and fired at fome ducks. Upon the report of the gun, the natives, who had not difcovered themfelves before, fet up a moft ]iideous roar in di(rerent places. The gentlemen hal- looed in their turn, and retreated to their boats. The natives did not follow them, neither indeed could they, becaufe a branch of the river feparated them, but ftill made a great noife. As they continued (hooting and making their obfervations, they frequently heard the natives in the woods. A man and a woman appeared at laft on the banks of the river, waving fomething in their hands as a token of friendlhip. The gentlemen could not get near them, and the natives retreated into the woods. Two others appeared ; but as the gentle- men advanced, they retreated likewife, and the woods afforded them thick cover. The captain and his party . pafled the next night in the fame place, and after break- iaft embarked to return on board j but faw two men on SECOND VOYAGE. igi on the oppofite fhore, who hallooed to them, and they were induced to row over to them. Captain Cook with two other gentlemen landed un- armed, and advanced all together, but the natives re- treated, nor would they ftand ftill till Capt. Cook went up alone. It was with fome difficulty that he prevailed with one of them to lay down his fpcar ; at Jaft he did it, and met the captain with a grafs plant in his hand, giving Capt. Cook one end to hold, whiltl he himfelf held the other. In this pofition they flood while the natives made a fpeech, which the captain did not un- derftand, but returned fome fort of anfwer j they then faluted each other, and the native took his coat from his back, and put it on the captain. He then prefent- ed each of them with a hatchet and a knife, having no- thing elfe with him. They invited the gentlemen to their habitation, and wanted them to eat, but the tide prevented their accepting of this invitation. The two natives accompanied the gentlemen to their boats, but feemed very much agitated at the appear- ances of the mufquets, which they looked upon as in- ftruments of death, on account of the ilaughter they kad obferved among the fowls. It was neceflary to watch them, for they laid their hands on every thing^ except the mufquets. On the 24th, Capt. Cook took five geefe and a gan* dcr, which were all that remained of thofe brought from the Cape, of Good Hope, and carried them to a cove, which on this account he called Goofe-cove ; this was a convenient place, for they were not likely to be difvurbed by the inhabitants, there was plenty of food for them, and they were likely here to breed and fpread the country with their fpecies. We had now feveral days fair weather, which gave us a fine opportunity ct' making necefTary preparations for departure. On the 27th we found an arm of the iba more con- venient than that by which we entered the bay. All we now waited for was wind to carry us out of the har- bour by the new paffage we had difcovered. The rub- bith we had made on Ihore, which chiefly confifled of pieces ii (t II! I t^Z CAPTAIN COOK S pieces of wood, &c. we fet on fire, in order to dry the ground, which being done, Capt. Cook fowed the fpot with various forts of garden leeds. We made feveral efforts to fail, but the wind proving contrary, we made but little way, and were obliged to anchor on the firfl of May on the north fide ol Long Illand. Before we leave Duiky Bay, we think it neceflary to give our readers lome delcription of it. There are two entrances to this bay, which are by no means dangerous ; and there are numerous anchor- ing places, which are at once fafe and commodious. The country is very mountainous, and the profpedt is rude and craggy. T!ie land bordering on the fea-coafl, and all its lands, arc covered with wood.- There are trees of various kinds, which are common in other countfles, the tiaiber of which is remarkably fine. Here are likewife a gr:.at nu nber of aromatic plants, and the woods arc fo over-run with fupple jacks, that it is difficult to make wav through them. The foil is undoubtedly compofcd of decayed vegetables, which make a deep black mould ; it is very ioole, and finks at every Hep. Except flax and hemp, there is little herba2;e. The inhabitants of Dufky Bay are the fame w^ith thofe in ovhcr parts of New Zealand ; they fpeak the fame language, and adopt the lame cuftonis. It is not eafy to divine what could induce thefe few i ami lies to ieparate thenifelves from the lociety of the reft of their fellow-creatures. It feems probable that there are peo- ple fcattered al! over this fouthern ifland, by our meet- ing with inhabirants in this place. They appeared to lead a wandering life, and don't fecm to be in perfect amity with each other. < •, :^ ; Oil the 1 ith of May, we again made fail, but met with more obftru«5lions. We obferved on a fudden a whitifcii fpot on the fea, out of which a column arofe which looked like a glals tube. It appeared that ano- ther of the fame fort came down from the clouds to meet this, and they made a coalition and formed what . . . ../. is SECOND VOYAGE* ^9 is called a water-fpout ; feveral others were formed in the f'lnie manner foon after. As we were not very well acquainted with the nature and caufes of thcfe fpouts, we were very curious in examining them. Their bafe was a broad fpot, which looked bright and yellowifli when the fun (hone upon it ; this appeared when the fea was violently agitated, and vapours rofe in a fpiral form. The columns were like a cylinder, and moved forward on the furface of the fea, and Irequently appeared crofiing each other, they at lall broke one after another, this was owing to the clouds nuL following them with equal rapidity.' The fea appeared more and more covered with (liort broken waves as the clouds came nearer to us ; the wind veered about, and did not fix in any one point. Within 200 yards of us, we faw a fpot in the fea in violent agita- tion J the water afcendcd in a fpiral form towards the clouds j the clouds looked black and louring, and fome hail ilones fc^ll on board. A cloud gradually tapered into a long flender tube diredVly over the agitated fpot, and feemcd defcended to meet the rifing i'piral, and foon united with it. The laft water fpout broke like the others, no explofion was heard, but a fladi of lightning attended this disjunction. On the 1 8th of May, at five o'clock in the morning, we opened Queen Charlotte's Sound, and faw three ilaflies arifing irom a Rrong hold of the natives. We imagined them to be fignals of the Europeans, and probably of our old friends in the Adventure ; when we fired fome guns, we were anlvNcred, and in a fliort time (aw the Adventure at anchor. We were faluted by Capt. Turneaux with 13 guns, which we very chear- fully returned j none can dtilcribe the joy we felt at this moll happy meeting. 9 Bb The -^ 194 CAPTAIN COOK S The folloiciii^ is a narrative of Capt. Furneanx\^ prf various forts, fidi- jiooks, and other curiufities, the manufadure of the (:ountry. Three niontlis were now clapfed Cince the Adventure h)i\. fight oF the Relolution ; hut on the 17th, (l^c was fee n at lackfon Point. We imiuediatelv Tent out boats to l\er affillance, it being calm, to tow her into the foun^l. In the evening, five anchored about a miJe without us, and uext morning weighed and warped within us. Having thus related the progrefs of the Adventure, we now come to record tlie trani'adions of both Ihips after their jundlion. It were httle more than a repe- tition of the Adventure's diflrefles to recapitulate the cffeds pf the bpifterous weather that were feJt by the crew of the Refolution j being fometimes furrounded with iflands of ice, out of which they could not extri- cate themfelves by the utmofl exertion of their Ikill in feamanfliip, fometirnes involved in flieets of fleet and fnow, and in miftsfodark, that a man on the forecaftlc could not be kQi\ from the quarter-deck ; fometimes the fea rolling mountains liigh, while the running tackle, made brittle by the feverity of the froit, was frequently fnapping, and fometimes rendered immoveable. Amidit the hardihips of fuch a traverle, there is nothing more affoniQiing, than that the crew Oiould continue in per- fefl health, fcarce a man being fo ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of Captain Cook, than his paying particular attention to the prefervation of health among his company. By ob- ferving the ftridetl difcipline from the higheft to the loweft, his coOimands were duly obferved, and pundlu- ally executed. When the fervice was hard, he teiii- pqred the feverity thereof by frequently relieving thofe employed in the performance, and having all hands at command, he was never under the neceffity of continuing ., • ., <,...™ the ' »i-.^ ' '■■■ ; ' SECOND VOYAGK. 1P9 the labour of any fct of men beyond what tlicir (Irengih and their fpirits could bear. Having by this means left no fparc time for gaming, quarrelling, or rioting, he kept thcni in adtion, and punifhcd drunkcnncis vviMi t!ic utmoll icvcrity j and thus by pcrfevering in a Heady line ot condurt, he was enabled to keep tlie tea till reduced to a very icanty por- tion of water ; and when he defpaircd of finding any new land, and had fully fatishco himfelf of the non- cxiftence of any continent in the ciuarter he lall travel fed, he direded his courie to Charlotte's Sound, the place appointed for both lhi[is to rendezvous in cafe of lepa- ration, and appeared otfthe fame, (as lias been already related) on Tucfday, tl»e i8th of May, 1773 ; and here we difcovered our conlort the Adventure, by the (Ignals flie 'made to us, an event every one in both ihips lelc with inexprefliblefatisfaiftion. The next morning after our arrival, being Wednef- day the 19th, Captain Cook went off in the boat, at day-break, to gather fcurvy-grais, celery, and other ve- getables. At breakfaft time he returned with a boat load, enough for the crew of both fliips ; and knowing their falutary efficacy in removing fcorbutic complaints, he ordered that they (liould be boiled with wheat and portable broth, every morning for breakflvd, and with peafe and broth for dinner, and thus drefledU"«tJiey are extremely beneficial. '. On the 20th, we vifited the fortifications of the na- tives where the obfervatory was fixed. It is only acccf- fible in one place, and there by a narrow, difficult path, being fituated on a ileep rock. The huts of the natives flood promifcuoufly, within an inclofure of palliiadoes ; they confided only of a roof, and liad no walls. About noon we were vifited by two fmall canoes, in which were five men. They dined with us, and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening they were difmiffcd with prefents. On the 24th, the Refolution received another vifit from a family, who came with no other intent than to* partake of our food, and to get fome of our iron work. We '200 CAPTAIN COOK S We wanted to know their names, but it waS a Ions time before wo could make them undcrlbmd us. At Jail we found that the oldell was called Towahan<;a, and the others Kotiigha-a, Koghoaa, Khoaa, Kol- lakh, and Taunuaperua. This lafl: was a boy about twelve years or age, very lively and intelligent, lie dined with us, eat voracioufly, and was very fond of the cruft of a pie made of wild fowl. He did not much relifli Madeira wine which the captain gave him, but was very fond of fome fweet Cape wine, which elevated his fpirits, and his tongue was perpe- tually going. On the 29th, a greaf number of natives furrounded us with canoes, who brought goods to exchange, for which they got good returns, owing to the eager- iiefs with which our failors outbid each other, all of them being deiirous of having fome of the produc- tions of this country. Among thefe Indians, we faw many women whofe lips were of a blackifli hue, and their cheeks were painted with a lively red. They had Uirge knees, and flender bandy legs, ow- ing to want of exercife, and fitting in their canoes crofs legged. The ladies were very agreeable to our crews, who had no opportunity of indulging an intercourfe with other women fmce our departure from England ; and they foon found out that chaftity was not a diftinguiOiing part of their charafter. Their confent was ealiiy purchafed : a fpike nail, or an old fliirt, was a fufficient bribe. The New Zealanders, encouraged by the gain of this difgraceful commerce, went through both the fliips, offering their daughters and fifters to the promifcuous embraces of every one^, for iron, tools, &zc. ' ' * On the 30th inftant, we went over to Long ifland, to collect fome hay which the crews had made, and to bring fome vegetables on \)oard. In this trip, we found feveral new plants, and fliot fome fmall birds, which we had not feen before. In the afternoon, leave was given to fome of our failors to go on fhore, where they again purchafed the embraces of the wo- men. SKCOi^'I) VOYAGE. 201 ♦Vicn. Thefo follows niuft luivc been very keen in- deed, or tlicy would have been difgiillcd with tlie Uncleanlinefs ot their doxies, all of wljoni had a difa- grceahle fmell, whicli might be fcented at a confl- derable diltance ; and their clothes as well as hair fwarnied with vermin to a very great degree, which they occalionally cracked between their teeth. It is farprizing how men, who had received a civihzed education, could gratify the animal appetite with fuch loathfome creatures. While this party were on fliore, a young woman on board ftole one of the feamen's jackets, and gave it a young man of her own tribe ; upon the failor's taking it trom the In- dian, he received feveral blows on the face by the young fellow's fift. At rtrft the failor took this as in joke, but upon perceiving the affiiilant to be in ear- ned, he gave him a hearty Englilh drubbing, and made him cry out for quarters. At this time Cap- tain Cook continued his employment of fowing, in different fpots cleared for the purpofc, all forts of vegetables that he thought would grow in this coun- try, fuch as potatoes, beans, peas, corn, Sec. On Tuefday the ifi: of June, we were vifited by feveral natives whom we had not feen before, and who brought with them fundry new articles of com- merce ; among thefe were dogs, fome of which we purchafed. Oi thefe people we faw a few oddly marked in their faces, by fpiral lines deeply cut in them. Such kind of marks were very regular in the face of a middle-aged man, named Tringho Waya, who appeared to be a perfon of note, and to have authority over his brethren. This company feemed to underftand perfe£lly well how to traffic, and did* not like we fliould make hard bargains. Some of them entertained us with a dance on the quarter- deck, previous to which they parted with their up- per garments, and flood in a row. They fang a fong, and its chorus all together, making during the performance many frantic geftures. Mufic accom- • 9 . • C c panied . . .J . '-- 202 CArrAIN COOKS panied tliis foiig and dance, but it was not very har- monious. Karly in the morning of the 7th, \vc failed from this place, in company with the Adventure, but had frequent hindrances from contrary winds. On the 22d, we were in hit. 32 deg. .'iOmin. long. 133 i\eg. 40 min. VV. Now the wcallier was fo warm, that we were obliged to put on lighter clt)aths. Captain Cook having heard that the crew of the Adventure were fickly, went on board tlie 'Jl^th of July, when he found the cook dead, and twenty men ill of the fcurvy and Hux. Only three men were on the Tick lift on board the Rcfolution, which was certainly ow- ing to the Captain's abfolutely enforcing the eatinjg celery and fcurvy-grafs with the food, though at firft the crew did not likr it. On the (ith of Ai ift. Captain Furneaux came on board the Refolu iOn to dinner, and reported, that his T3eople were much better, that the flux had ' quite left them, and that the fcurvy was at a itand. The fcorbutic people had been well fupplied with cyder, which in a great meafure contributed to this happy change. On the 1 Mh, we faw Ofnaburg ifland ; and on the 15«h, at five in tlie morning, ac- quainted Captain Furneaux, that it was our inten- tion to put into Oatipiha Bay, near the fouth end of Otaheite, and get what refrelliments we could in that part of the liland, before we went to Matavai. On the 18th, we were within a league of the reef. On account of the breeze failing us, we hoifted out our boats to tow the fliips off, but they could not keep us from being carried too near the reef. Many inha- bitants came on board from different parts, who brought fruits, &c. to exchange ; they moft of them knew Captain Cook again, and enquired for Mr. Banks, and others, but none of them afked for Tu- pia. Our lituation became ftill more dangerous as the calm continued. On fending to examine the weftern point of the reef, in order to get round that way into the bay, we found that there was not fuffi- " " cient "\ SECOND VOYAGE. 203 cicnt c!opth of water. Hoth Ihips were carried with great iinpLtuolity towards the rccF, and all tlic horrors of ihipwreck noA' Ihircd us in the face. 'J lie breakers were not two cables length from us, and \vc could find no bottom to anchor. 'I'he Refulution came at three fathoms waler, and Ibuck at every fall of the fea, the Adventure brought up under ouv bow \s ith- out flrikinij. The dreadful furf which broke under our ftern, threatened our Ihip wreck every moment. At length we foun:l ground a little n\ ithout the bafon, . and got the fliip afloat by cutting away the bower anchor, and the tide ceafed to att in the fame direc- tion. We ha{)pily towed off the Refulution, and alt the boats were ordered to alllll the Adsenture. We happily got once more fafe at fea, after narrowly ef- caping iliipwreck. We anchored in Oatipiha Ray, very near the fhore, and were vilited by a great number of the na- tives, who brought roots, fruit, 8cc. Several of thefe people afked for Mr. Banks, and other people who were at Otaheite with Captain Cook before. W^e were informed bv ihefe people, that there had been a battle fought between the two kingdoms ; that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninfula, was flain, and that Otoo reigned in hisftead. In this bat- tle Tubourai Tamaide, and feveral of our old friends, ieW. A peace was now fully eftablillied. On the 19th, the two communders made an ex- curfion along the coall, and were entertained by a chief (whom they met) with fome excellent fifli, &c. to whom in return they made feveral prefents. On the 20th, one of the natives ilule a gun from the people on lliore. Some of the natives purfued him of their own accord, who knocked bim down, and brought back the mufquet. Wg imagine that fear operated more with them in this buiinefs than any other motive. On the 2lfl:, a chief came to vifit us, who brought in a prefent of fruit, which proved to be fome coca-nuts that we had drawn the water from and thrown overboard. He had fo artfully tied them • *j- ^ . C c 2 up. 204 CAPTAIN COOK S up, that we did not foon difcover the deceit. He did not betray the lealt emotion when we told him of it, and opened two or three of them himfelF, as if he knew nothing of the matter ; he then pretended to be fatisfied that it was really fo, and went on ihore, from whence he fent fome bananoes and plantains. We were informed that Waheatow was come into the neighbourhood, and vvilhed to fee Capt. Cook, who accordingly went in company with Capt. Fur- neaux, and fome gentlemen : they were likewife attended by fome natives. About a mile from the landing place they met the chief, advancing to meet them with a numerous train. When the prince perceived the company, he halted. He knew Capt. Cook very well, as tlicy had feen each other feveral times in 1769. He wont at that time by the name of Tcrace, and took his father's name at his death. We found him fitting on a Itool ; and as foon as the ufual falutation was over, he feated Capt. Cook on the fame ftool with himfelf ; the reft fat on the ground. lie inquired after feveral who had been on the former voyage, and fcemed forry when we told him we muft fail the next day, offering the captain that if he would ftay he fliould have hogs in plenty. Capt. Cook made him many prefents, and ftaid with him the whole morning. This party teturned on board of fliip to dinner, and made this chief another vifit in the afternoon, made him more prefents, and he gave us two hogs. At the different trading places, fome others were got, fo that a meal's freili pork ferved for the crews of both fhips. Early in the morning of the 24th, we put to fea, and were accompanied by feveral canoes, who brought cargoes of fruit for fale ; neither did they return till they had difpofed of them. The fick people on board the Adventure got much relief from,, thefe fruits. We left a lieutenant on fliore, in order to bring fome hogs which they promifed to fend by liim. He returned on the 25th, and brought eight pigs with him. AVe arrived at Matavai Bay in the , '; evening, SECOND VOYAGE. 203 e could get to anchor, ahnoft all of them were acquainted wiih Captain Cook, Otoo their king, and a great crowd were got together on fliore. C^pt. Cook was going on ihore to pay him a vifit, but was told that he was gone to Oparce in a fright ; which feemed very extraordinary to the crptain, as all others were much pleafed to fee him. Alaritata, a chief, was on board, and advifed the captain to defer his vilit till next morning, Next morning the captain fet out for Oparee, after having given, directions to fetch tents for the reception of the lick. Capt. Furneaux, Maritata and his wife, and fome others went with the captain. They were conduced to Qtoo as foon as they landed, who fat on the ground under a fliady tree, with a great number of people around him. Capt. Cook made him feveral prefents, atter the ufual compli- ments had paffed, being very well perfuaded that it was much to bis interelt to eliabliih a friendlhip with this man. Otoo inquired for all the gentlemen who had been there before, as well as for Tupia, and promifed to fend fome liogion beard, but was very backward in faying he would come on board himfejf, being, as he faid, much afraid of the great guns. He was certainly the moft timid prince, as all his a6ticns demonilrated. He was a perfonable well made man, fix feet high, and about tliirty years of age. His father and all his fubjetts were uncovered before him, that is, their heads and fnoulders were made bare. ■■ ' •• • . ■ ; ' • • On the 27th, the king Otoo came to pay us a viiit, attended by a numerous train ; he fent before two lar^i-e filh, a ho";, fome fruits, and a Jarcre quantity ot cloth. Alter much pcrfualion he came on board himfelf, accom|)anied by^ his fillers, a younger brother, &c. with many attendants, who all received prefents ; and when they had breakfafted, carried them home to Oparee. Upon landing, an pjd lady, the mother of Toutaha, met Capt. Cook, -. , ... feized I 20G CAPTAIN cook's ftrizcd him by both hands, and, weeping bitterly, told him that her Ton and his friend Toutaha were dead. I lad not the king taken her from Capt. Cook, lie muft have joined her lamentations. The next day the king promifed to vifit us again, but faid we inuft firll: wait upon him. On the 29th, the commanders took a trip to Oparee, attended by fome officers and gentlemen, and made the king fuch prefents as he had not before feen. One of them was a broad fword ; at the light of which he was very much intimidated, and defired it might be taken out of his fight. With a vaft deal of argument, he was prevailed upon to fuffer it to be put on his fide, where it remained a very Ihort time. We received an invitation to the theatre, where they entertained us w^ith a dramatic piece, confifting of a comedy and dance. The performers were one woman, •whicli was no lefs a perfonage than the king's fifter, and five men, and their mufic confifted of only three drums. The whole entertainment was well con- ducted, and lafted about two hours. When this diverfion was over, the king defired us to depart, and loaded us with fruit and fifli. The king fent more fruit and fifli the next morning. On the 111 ot Sept. we determined to depart, as the fick were nearly recovered, the neceflary repairs of the fliip were compleated, and plenty of water provided. Moft of the day was employed in un- mooring the fliips ; and in the afternoon, the lieut. returned, who had ben fent for the hogs promifed. Widi him came Potatou (the chief of the diftri61 of Attahounou), with his wife, to pay Captain Cook a r- vifit, and made him a prefent of two h'^'^s and fome fifli. The lieutenant got likewife two more hogs. ,, As the wind was welterly, we were obliged to dif- mifs our friends fooner than they wilhed ; but they were very well fatisfied with the reception they met with. A young man, named Peoro, came on board fome . hours before we got under fail, and defired to go with- us. of )gS. 5EC0ND VOYAGE. 20; 115, to which we confcnted j and at the fame time he afked for an axe ana a fpike nail for his father, who came with him on board. They were accordingly given him, and they parted with great inditference, which feemec! to indicate that they had deceived us, and no other confanguinity fubfilled. Prefentiy a canoe, conducted by two men, came along-lide, and demanded Peoro ia the name of Otoo. We informed them that we would part with liim if they would return the hatchet and fpike nail, but they faid they werealhore ; fothe young gen- tleman failed along with us, though he wept when he fiiw the land at our ftern. On the 2d, we fleered our courfe for the iHand of Huaheine, and the Refolution anchored in twenty-four fathoms water on the 3d inft. but the Adventure got afhore on the north fide of the channel, but (he was happily got off again without receiving any damage. The natives received us with the utmofl cordiality, feveral of whom came on board before our commanders went on Ihore. Some prefents were diftributed among them, which were gratefully returned by a plentiful fupply of hogs, fruit, &c. Here we had a fine profped of being plentifully fupplied with frefli pork and fowls, which was to us very pleafing. i' ■ . On the 4th, two trading parties went on fhore, which were very well conduded. Captain Cook was informed that Oree was (till alive, and waited to fee him. The commanders, with Mr. Forfter, went to the place appointed for the interview, accompanied by one of the natives. The boat was landed before the chief's houfe, and were defired to remain in it till the neceffary cere- mony was gone through. There flood clofe to the (horc five young plantain trees, which are their emblems of peace : thele were, with fome ceremony, brought oa feparately. The firfl three, were each accompanied by a young pig, whofe ears were ornamented with cocoa- nut fibres ; the fourth plantain tree was accompanied by a dog. All thefe had particular names and mean- ings, which we could not underftand. This part of the ceremony being over, wc were deiired by our guide to '^ ^\ ■ -'" ■ ■' ■ ■ •• •' ^'^'^.-[\ decorate us. loS CAPTAIN COOK S decorate three young plantain trees with nails, looking^ glalfes, beads, &c. &c. With thefe in our hands we landed, and were condu(5led through the multitude, AVe were directed to fit down a few paces before the chief, and the plantains were laid one by one before him. This being done, the king came to Capt. Cook, fell on his neck, and killed him. A great effufion of tears fell down the cheeks of this venerable old man ; and if ever tears (poke the language of the heart, furely thefe did. Captain Cook regarded him as a father, and therefore prefented him with the mofi: valuable articles he had. Soon after we returned on board, fourteen hogs were fent us, with fowls and fruit in abundance. In the morning of the 5th inft. we were again vi- fited by this good old man, who brought a hog and forhe fruit ; indeed he fent the captain every day, ready drefledj fruit and roots in great plenty. This morning the lieu- tenant went on fiiore in learch of more hogs, and re-*- turned in the evening with 28, and about 70 more were purchafed on fliore. When we went to take leave of Oree, while the fliips were unmooring, we prefented him with things both va- luable and ufeful. We left him a copper-plate, with this infcription, " Anchored here, his Britannic Majefty's fiiips Refolution and Adventure, September 1773." After we had traded for luch things as we wanted, we took our leave, which was a very affectionate one. On returning to the fhips, they were crouded, as on our arrival, with canoes filled with hogs, fowls, &c. Soon after we were on board, the king came, and ftaid with us, till we were near two miles out at fea, and then after taking another ^ffcdionate leave, parted. During our ftay here, we procured upwards of 300 hogs, befides fowls and fruit in o;reat abundance. While at this ifland. Captain Furneaux engaged a young man, named Omai, a native of Ulitea, who had been dilpoireffcd of his property by the people of Bolo- bola, to accompany him on his voyage. This young man had a good underflanding, honell priack)les, and a natural good behaviour. ifaf " ^ Oa ■i ■ # .-^. SECOND VOYAGE. 2O9 On the 8th, we entered the harbour of Ohamaneno j the natives croucled about us witli hogs and fruit as foon as we ancliored. We refufed the hogs, as we had al- ready more than we could manage ; but feveral of the principal people obliged us to take them whcrlicror no. We made a vifit on the 9th to Oreo, w!)o is the chief of this part of the ifland of Ul'Ta. He exprcfTed great fatisfa6lion on feeing CaptUiii Cook. a;/;ain, and dclircd him to exchangonames with him, whlca the latter agr'^ed to : this is a dillinguilhing mark of f'i^.nc'lhip. Heic we traded as ufual, but the balance of trade was much in our favour. On the loth, the^chief entertained ". :tb a > ornedy : a very entertaining part of which was a theft, coma.i ted with amazing dexterity, by a man and his accomplice. Before the thief has time to carry off the prize, he is difcovered, and a fcuffle enfues : the difcoverers are vanquiflied, and the thieves go off in triumph. We returned to dinner after the play was over, and as we were walking on (liore in the evening, one of the natives informed us that there were nine uniiiiiubued iflands to the wedward. Oreo and his fon paid us a vlfit early in the morning of the nth of September, and bi ought, as ufual, hogs and fruit with them. We drefled the youth in a Ihirt, and fome other articles, of which he was not a little proud. After flaying fome hours, they went afhore, and fo did Captain Cook foon after, but to another part of the (hore. When the chief heard he was landed, he went of his own accord, and put a hog and fome fruit in the boat, and returned without faying any thing of it to any other perfon. He afterwards came with fome friends to dinner. After dinner, Po- oorau, who is the moft eminent chief of the ifland, paid us a vifit. He was introduced by Oreo, and brought a prefent with him ; for which he received a handfbme return. We promiled to vifit thefe two chiefs the next morning j which we accordingly did, in com- pany with feveral gentlemen. Another play was adied, and two very pretty young women performed, other- 9 D d wife 2IO CAPTAIN COOK S wife this piece was not fo entertaining as the one we faw before. On the 14th, Oreo and fome friends paid us a pretty early vifit, when we informed him, that we (hould dine with him on Hiore, and dcfired he would let us have two pigs for dinner, drelfed in their fafhion. We found the floor of the chief's houfe flrewed with leaves, and we were ibon feated round them. Soon after the pigs came tumbling over our heads upon the ieaves , and they were both (o hot as fcarcely to be touched. The table was ornamented with hot bread and plantains : we had likewife a quantity of cocoa-nuts to drink. We never faw viduals drefled cleaner nor better in our lives, and it had a mod exquilite flavour, much fuperior to vic- tuals drefled in our mode ; how they contrived it we cannot tell, but though one of them weighed fifty pounds at leafl:,' it was well done in every part, and not too much in any. We had a great number of attendants, and people came to fee us dine in public, to whom pieces of pork were handed. The chief did not refufe his glafs of Madeira whenever it came to his turn, and we never at this, or any other time, faw him affeded by it. The boat*s crew took the remainder when we had dined. In the afternoon, we were again entertained with a play. On the 15th, we had a fufficient proof of the timo- rous difpofition of thefe pet)ple. We rather wondered that none of them came to the ihips as ufual. We were afraid that as two men of tr.e Adventure's crew fliaid out all night, that the natives had ftripped them, or done them fome otlicr injury, and were afraid we fliould revenge tiieir conduct. We went afliore, and found the neig.ibouriiood nearly dcfertexl. Prefently the two men made their appearance, and reported they had been very civilly treated. We could get no account of the caufe of their flight, and could oaly learn from a few perfons who ventured near us, that fcveral were killed and wounded, and pointed to their bodies where the balls of the guns went in and out. Captain Cook was very un- cafy at this relation, fearing for the fafety of the people gone SECOND VOYAGE. 21 1 gone to Otaha. In order to get the bed inrormation, the captain determined to go to the chief himielf, whom, after much fearching for, lie found feated under the (hade of a houfe, with a great many people round him. There was a great lamentation as loon as Captain Cook approached, the chief and all his company buriling into tears. Atter all this piece of work, it was found that the cauie of their alarm was on a. count of our boats being abfent, fuppoling that the people in them had de- ferted us, and that we (hould adopt violent methods to recover them. They were latisfied, " when C.ptain Cook allured them that tliere was no caufe for alarm, and that the boats would certainly return. On the morning of the i6th, we paid tlie chief a vifit, who was in his own houfe in perfedl tranquillity. At this time Poreo Jeft us. CHAP III. State of tJie ijland — Cu/ioms of t/ie natives — Pq/Jage from Utitca to tlie F/'iendlij Ijl.es — Hervey's Ijland dij covered — Incidents at Middlcbnrg/i — The two Jhips arrive at Amjterdam — Incidents tliat liappencd during their Ji ay at that ijland. £ ON the 17th of September, we determined to put to fea, having a good fupply of all kinds of refreQi- ments. Before we iailed, Oreo and his fon paid us a vilit. Several canoes, filled with fruit and hog*, fur- rounded us ; of the latter we could receive no more, our decks being fo crouded with them that we could fcarcely move. In both (hips were about three hun- dred and fifty. Oreo and his friends did not leave us till we were under Tail, and earnefily importuned us to tell when we Ihould return. Captain Cook, as many young men offered to come away with us, took one on board, about 18 years of age, named Oedidee, a na- tive of Bolobola. When we were out of the harbour and had made fail, a canoe was obferved following us, conduced by two men j whereupon we brought to, ^:: ..i-^ D d 2 and 212 CAPTAIN COOK S r and when along-fide» tliey delivered to Captain Cook a prefent of roalled fruit and roots, from Oreo. The captain, after having made them a proper return, fet fail to the wefl, with the Adventure in company. We fhali here give fome further account of thefe iflands, fome things which arc rather interefting having been omitted in the relation of daily tranfadtions and incidents. In the years 1767, 1768, the ifland of Otaheite, as it were, fwarmed with hogs and fowls ; but at this time it was fo ill lupplied with ihefe animals, that hardly any thing could tenipt the owners to part with them : and the little flock they had feemed to be at the difpo- falof their kings. When we lay at Oaiti-piha Bay, in the kingdom of Tirrabou, or lelfer Peninfula, we were given to under- fland, that every hog and fowl belonged to Waheatoua; and that all in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater Peninfula, belonged to Otoo. While at this ifland, we only got twenty-four hogs in feventeen days ; half of which came from the kings themfelves, and the other half we were inclined to think were fold us by their per- miflion. But with refped to all the fruits produced in the ifland, with thefe we were abundantly fupplied, ex- cept bread-fruit, which was not in feafon. Cocoa-nuts and plantains we got the inoft of; the latter, with a few yams and other roots, fupplied tlie place of bread. ,We attributed the fcarcity of hogs to two caufes : firlj, to the great number of thefe animals which have been coni'umed, and carried away for flock, by the fliips that have touched here of late years ; fecondly, to the frequent wars between the two kingdoms. Two we have known have commenced (ince the year 1767 ; but at prefent peace reigns among them, though they do not feem to entertain a cordial friend fliip for each other. After our departure, it was our intention to get into the lat. of the iflands of Middleburgh and Amfterdam, to which end, on the 17th of September we fl:e^ed to the wefl;, inclining to the fouth, with a view of getting clear SECOND VOYAGE. 213 clear of the traifls of former navigarors. We proceeded at night with great circumfpedion, frequently laying to, left we (liould pals any land unobicrvcd. On the 21ft, and the whole of the 22d, we had rain, thunder, light- ning, a large fwell from the S. and the wind blew from the N. W. for feveral days ; a fign to us, that, in that diredion, no land was near us. This was difcovered from the maft-head, on Thurfday the 23d, ftretching from S. by W. to S. W. by S. We hauled up with the wind at S. E. and found it to confift of two or three fmall lilots, united bv breakers, as are mofl of the low illes in the Tea ; the whole being in a triangular form, and about fix leagues in circuit. This ifland is in lat. 19 deg. 18 min. S. and in 158 dcg. 54 min. W. Ion. Each of the fmall connected illes are cloathed with wood, particularly of the cocoa-nut kind ; but we faw no traces of inhabitants, nnd had reafon to' believe there were none. To tlieic ifluts we gave the name of Her- vey's Ifland, in honour of Captain Hervey of the navy, one of the lords of the admiralty, and now earl of Briftol. As the landing on this ille would have occa- fioned a delay, we refumed our courfe to the weft, in which we law fome men of war, tropic birds, and flying filh. On the 23th, we again began to ufe our fea bif- cuit, the iiuit being all confunied j but of freih pork each man had every day a neceliary allowance. On the 29th, in lat. 21 deg. 26 min. S. we altered our courfe at noon W. half S. On the ift of O<5lober, at two o'clock P. M. we made the ifland of Middleburgh, and the next mornincr bore up for the weft (ide thereof, pafiing between the fame and a fmall ifland that lay off it, where we found a clear channel two miles broad. After running about two thirds of its length, half a mile from the Ihore, wc obferved it alTumed another afped, and offered a profped: both of anchorage and landmg. Upon this we plied in under the ifland. We were now vifitcd by two canoes, which came boldly along-lide of us, and Icveral of the Indians entered the Relblution without hefitation ; which mark of confidence determined us to vifit them if 1%;^ :. - :. ... poflible. 214 CAPTAIN COOK S ■-•.c of ava, in the manner already related ; the latter of which was prefented to each of us in cups made by the folding of green leaves, containing near half a pint each cup ; but Capt. Cook was the only perfon who taftcd the li- quor : however, the bowl was ioon emptied by the na- tives, of which both men and women partook ; but we oblerved that the fame cud was never filled twice, nor did two peribns drink out of it ; each had a frefli cup and frefli liquor. The houfe we were now entertained In was fituated at one angle of the plantation, abounding with fruit and trees, whofe fragrance diftufed a pleafant odour, and the fprcading branches made an agreeable fliade. Before the houfe was an area, on which we were featcd. It being now noon, we returned on board to dinner, with the chief Tioony in our company. We had on the table frefli pork, but he eat nothing, which we thought fomewhat extraordinary. After dinner we again went on fliore, and were received as before. Mr. Forfter, with his botanical party, and fomc other gentlemen, took a walk into the country. Our two captains were conducled to the chief's lioufe, where fruit, and fome greens were fet before us. Having jull dined, we could not eat much, but Oedidee and Omai did honour to the defert. We now intimated a defire of feeing the country, and Tioony very readily gratified our wilhes. He led through feveral plantations, laid out with great judgment, and inclofed with fences made of reeds. Moll of them belonged to our hofpitable chief, and were all in very good order, and planted with fruit trees. Hogs and very large fowls, the only domeftic animals we law, were running near the houfes, and in the lanes that feparated the plantations. Every perfon was very much pleafed with this delightful coun- try and the friendly reception we met with j and we much ..»'. 2l6 CAPTAIN COOK S m much regretted, that the feafon of the year and other circumftaiices, would not permit our longer flay. Ja the evening we returned on board, and on Saturday the 2d of Odober, the (hips were crouded with people the whole day, trafficking in perfed good order. On the 3d, early in the morning, while the (hips were preparing to get under fail. Captains Cook and Furneaux, accompanied by Mr. Foriler, went off in the boat to take leave of our hofpitable chief. He met us at the landing-place, and had we not excufed ourfelves, he would have entertained us at his houfe. We there- fore fpent half an hour with him, fcated on thegrafs, in the midfl: of a vaft croud of the natives, who feemed to vie with each other in doing what they thought would give US' plcafure. Having made the chief a prefent, confiding of various articles, he was given to underftand that we were going away, at which he feemed not at all affeded. He went with us into our boat, with two of his friends, intending to accompany us aboard, but when he faw the Refolution under fail, he and his com- panions went into a c^noe, and returned on fhore. It is remarkable, that on fhorc this friendly Indian never made the leaft exchange ; but now, during his ftay in the boat, he bartered fifli-hooks for nails, and engroffed the trade in a manner wholly to himfelf. On the 3d, as foon as Captain Cook came on board, we departed from Middleburgh, and made fail down to Amflerdam. When we were about half way between the two ifles, we were met by three canoes, and the peo- ple made ieveral attempts to come aboard, but without effed, as the rope we threw out to them broke, and we did not Hiorten fail. They were likewife unfuccefsful in boarding the Adventure. ,• , We ran along the fouth-wefl. coaft of Amfterdam, at the diftance of half a mile from ibe (bore, whereon the fea broke in a great iurf. By the help of glaffes, we faw the face of the whole ifland, wKicli, in every part that came under our obierv.uioji, appeared covered with plantations. Alon^ the Ihore we perceived the natives running in great numbers, and dilplaying fmall white ■>'■ SECOND VOYAGE. 217 white flags, the emblems of peace, which fignals we anfv.'crecl by hoilling a St. George's cnlign. At this tim: three of the natives of Middleburgli, who had continued too long on board the Adventure to return, quitted her, and Iwam to the Ihore, from whence we concluded they had no Itrong inclination to accom- pany us in our voyage. We liad no fooner opened the weft fide of the ifle, than feveral canoes, having four men in each, came boldly along- iide, and, when they had prefented us wiih Tome av a root, came on board without the lealt ceremony. llavi:^.ggot into Van Diemcn's Road, we anchored in 18 fathoms water, little more than a ca- ble's leiigth fn;m the breakers; and our coafting an- chor, to keep the ihip from tailing on the rocks, lay in 17 fathom water. By this tinu we were furrounded with people, and our fernvri were fo eager in pur- chafing their curioiifi^*.. vcn at theexpenceofcloaths, that Captain Coo! :ound it abfolutely neceflary to prohibit any faiilier commerce of this fort. Ihe good cffeft of this order was, that on the 4th, the natives brought us fowls, pigs, bananoes, and cocoa-nuts in abundance, for which we exchanged fmall nails and pieces of clothj even old rags would purchafc pigs and fowls. y m . , - • A trading party was now fettled, and our com- manders went on fliore, attended by Mr. Foriler, and other officers, in company with a chief named At- tago, who had attached himfelf to Captain Cook the iirlt moment of his coming aboard, which was before the lliips came to anchor. This perfoii of fome note prefented the captain with -feveral articles, and as a greater teftimony of friendlliip, exchanged names with him ; a cuftom, which, as we have oblerved, is praclifed at Otaheite, and the Socinian liles. We were received on Ihore with the fame demonltrations of joy as at Middleburgh, and the gentlemen fet out into the country, except the two commanders, v/ho diftributed prefents to fuch of the natives as Attago |).oirited out, who were afterwards difcovered to be 'M' Ee ^" „ " •(?^H.- '■■m 218 CAFTAtN COOK*S w of fuperlor rank to bimfelt ; though at this time, by the attention paid to him, he appeared to be the prin- cipal perfon. jtlaving complained of the heat, At- tago (hewed and fcated us under the lliade of a large tree ; and the people, who were ordered to form a circle, never attempted to pafs the prefcvibed bounds, and croud upon us, as did thole of O'aheite. After having been here fome time, we hinted our •defire to fee the country j whereupon Attago imme- diately condu£led us along a lane that terminated in an open green, on one iide of which we faw a place of w^orlhip, built on a mount about eighteen feet high. It was an oblong fquare, inclofed by a ftone parapet wall, about three feet in height ; from which the mount, covered with green turf, rofe to the building with a gradual flope. The building was twenty by fourteen feet. VVhen we had advanced within fif'"y yards of its front, every one fat down on the green. Three elderly men, whom we took for prielts, begun a prayer, having their faces to the houfe, which lalted aboi*t ten minutes, and this being ended, they came and feated themfelves by us, ¥/e made them prefents of what we had about us, and then proceeded to view the premifes, to which they did not ^.levv the leall relu61ance. The houfe was built in every refpeft like their common dwellings, with pofts and rafters, covered with palm thatch. The eavescanie within three feet of the ground, and the open fpace was filled up with ftrong matting made up ot palm-leaves as a wall In the front, leading to the top of this, were two ftone lleps ; and round the houfe was a gravel walk : the floor was alfo laid with fine gravel, in tliecentre whereof was an oblong fquare of blue pebbles, railed fix inches higher. In one an"le oi" the buildinu flood an imatje rou2:hlv carved in wood, pnd another lay on one fide. This hnnge was turned over ai woiild have done any other vinc-ed us, that they were over by Attago, as he o: of wood, which con- , that they were not conlidered by the na- tivew a6 obje its of worlliip. We jput fcveral queftions ,pr. SECOND VOYAGE. 2n' to Attago concerning this matter, but did not under-* lland his anfwers ; for our readers are to be informed^ that, at our laft arrival, we hardly could underftand a word the people faid. We thought proper to leave an offering, and therefore laid down upon the plat- form fome medals, nails, and other things, v^hich our friend immediately took up and put in his pocket. We could not conceive how they could cut fuch large ftoncs out of the coral rocks, with which the walls were made tliat inclofed the mount, fome of them being ten feet by four, and near fix inches thick. The mount, which flood in a kind of grove, was open only to view on that fide which fronted the green, and here five rocks met, moft of which ap- peared to the public. Among the various trees that compofed the groves, we found the Etoa tree, of which are made clubs, and a fort of low palm, very common in the northern parts of Holland. This place of worfliip, in the language of Amfterdam, is called A-fia-tou-ca. vs ^■■^■^'■. • '•: " ' ■ ': ' v '^ On our return to the water fide, we tunicd off to- a road leading into the country, about fixteen feet broad, and as level as a bowling-green, feveral other roads interfe^led it, all inclofed on each fide with neat reed-fences, and (liaded by fruit-trees. The country hereabouts is furprizingly fertile, infomuch, that we might eafily have imagined ourfelves in the rao(t pleafant fituation that Europe could afford. Here are various delightful walks, and not an inch of uncultivated ground. Nature, alfifted by art, no where appears to more advantage than in this fertile fpot. The roads, even the high public one, which was about fixteen feet broad, occupied no more fpace than was abfolutely necelfary, nor did the boun- daries and fences take up above four inches each, and in many places ofthefe were planted ufeful trees and plants. -■ i';j. vi. '../u i^.iw i •vs,- jxj uni ••-^' '.'^v.''^ On the 5th, earlv in the niorning> the captain's friend Attago, brought him a hog and fome fruit, for which, in return, he received a hatchet. The pin- ..>:3; Ee2 iiace 220 CAPTAIN COOK S nace having been feat on fliore to trade as ufual, foon returned, and we were informed that the natives in . many refpetts, were exceeding troublefome. The day before they had ftole the boat's grapHng, and at this time they were for taking every thing out of the pinnace. It was therefore judged neceffary to have on ihore a guard, and accordingly the marines were fent, under the command of Lieutenant Edg- On the Gth, our friend Attago vrfited us again a> ufual,. brought with him a hog, and aflifted us in purthafing many more. We went afterwards on fhore, vilited the old chief, with whom we flayed till noon, and returned on board to dinner, accompanied by A ttago, who never one day left Captain Cook. , Beiag about to depart fiam this illand,. a prefen: v/as made for the old king, and carried on fliorL- ni « -; evening. Attago very flrongly importuned us to call again at this ifle oa- our return, and requefted of the captain more than once, to bring him a fuit of clothes ' like thofehehad on,, which was his uniform. The fupplies which we procured from this ifland were about 160 pigs, double that number of fowls, as many bananas, &;c. as we could find room for ;, and, had we continued longer,, we might have had more than our wants required. We were now about * to depart, when, ia heaving the coafting cable, it * broke,, by being chaffed by the rocks ; by which ac- cident we loft nearly halt the cable, together with tha anchor, which lay in forty fathonis water, with- ' out any buoy to it ; from whence a judgment may be "' formed of this, anchorage. About ten o'clock P. M. we got under fail, but ^\our decks being encumbered with fruit, fowls, &c. we kept plying under the land till they were Cleared, V As to the natives of tliefe illands, both fexes are of p ' common iize Vv^ith Europeans ; but with refpeft t': complexion, their colour is that of a lightifli copper, " and more uniformly fo than among thofe of Otaheite •' and the Societv illcs. Of our gcntleu\cn^ fome thought '" ".; ' " - ' . "" tliefe 5^ SECOND VOYAGE. 2^i ^S ^ thefe people were a much handfomer race ; others were of a contrary opinion. It is certain that they have in general regular features, with a good lliapc ^ they are alfo a6tive, briik, and lively. The women are efpeceially very m^rry and fociable, and would chat with us, without being invited, or if we feemed attentive, without co^iidering whether we underltood them or not. They appeared in general to be modeft: yet inftances of thofe of a different charafter were not wanting ; and having fome venereal complaints^ Captain Cook took all poffible care, that the diforder ihould not be communicated to them. Whene\er opportunity ferved, they difcov(»red a frrcng propen- fity to pilfering, and in the art of thieving are full as knowing and dexterous as the Otaheiteans. Their hair, particularly of the females, is black, but fome of the men have a method of ftaining their hair with various colours, as white, red, and blue, which we faw upon the fame head. It is wore cut fliort, and we met with only two exceptions to this cuftom. The boys have only a fmgle lock on the top of the head, combed upwards, and a fmall quantity on eacn^fide. The beards of the men are fliaved quite clofe with two iliells : and even thofe of an advanced age have fine eyes, and in general good tev;th. The drefs of the natives eonfifls of a piece of cloth or matting, hanging below the knee:, but from the waifl upwards they are generally naked. We were entertained frequently with fongs from the women, in an agreeable Ityle, and the mufic they accompa- nied by fnapping their fingers, fo as to keep time to it. Both this and their voices are very harmo- nious ; and they have a eonfiderable compafs in their notes. ' .ML'';f fItlV. lyHO'i.lMi) '•'I'' The government of this country is much like that of Otahcite, that is, in a king or prime chief (called Areeke) with other fubordinate chiefs, who are lords of certain diftrifts, perhaps fole proprietors, to whom' the people feem to pay great obedience. We alfo perceived a third rank, one of whom was our friend ■^' •■**■» .Att:'.^o» 222 CAPTAIN COOK S '. Attago, whofeemed to have not a little iiiHuerrce ovef the common people. It was the opinion of Captain Cook, that all the land is private property, and that here, as at Otahcite, are a fet oi fervants or ilaves,: who have no property in jand. Indeed, we cannot : fuppofe every thing to be in common, in a country fo • richly cultivated. Few would toil if they did not i expert to reap, and enjoy the fruits of their labour as :' their own. Parties of fix, eight, or ten people,- would frequently bring fruit down to the landing- m place ; but we always faw one man or woman, fuper- < intend the fale oi the whole, without whofe confent r no exchanges could be made; and the things they bar- i tered for were alwayj» given them, all which plainly r iliews they were the owners, and the others only their '. lervants. •lit! CHAP. IV. Dei-, The Bejolufion and Adventure continue their voi/agc from Amjierdam — Proceed for Queen Charlotte's \„ Sound — An inlervieic icifh the inhahitants — Thejinal . fepamtion of the tzvo Jhips — Traifactions and inci- dents in Queen Charlotte's Sound — The inhabitants' d /f cove red fo be canniba's — The Befolution departs: from the Sound, and proceeds in fearch after hci^ .-, eonfcrt — Courfe if the Befolution in fearch of the , fujjpifed anitiiient ; and the methods purjiied ta ex- plore the Si'uthern Pacific Ocean — Ariives at Eajler- z/landy and Iran factions tliercy Si\\ ' .;" « ' ', ,N the Tth of Oclober, we made fallto the fouth- ward, and our route determined was, to make for Queen Charlotte's Sound, there to take in a fup~ jjly of wood and water, and then to proceed on far- ther difcoveries to the S. and E. We now after a lew hours calm, flrctched with a S. W. wind to the, S. E. but on Sunday the lOih, it veered round to the 1 1 , i • '!>% i>.:a btv. . -M'lvy >bn;ri ro ''r'i;i({'.vj rl-a Htpy I-. J-» f(' t I u SECONU VOYAGE. 223 1 ,' a ft S. H. and E. S. E. upon which vvc refumed ourcourfc totheS. S. W. ■ . • • ■ ■••... On the 21ft, at five o'clock A. M. we made the land of New Zealand, extendinj>- from N. W. by N. to W. S. W. We ftood in ihore till we were abrcaft of Table Cape and Portland Ifland, which is joined to it by a ledge of rocks. We advanced to the Black v^ape on the 22d, and feveral inhabitants took cou- rage and boarded us, amongft whom was a chief ; he was cloathed elegantly, and his hair was dreffed in the high falhion of the country. We entertained him in the cabin, and his companions fold us fome fifli. Thefe people were very lond of nails, and the chief received them witti much greater eagernefs than when the captain gave him hogs, fowls, feeds, and roots. We obtanied a promife from him not to kill any, and if he keeps his word, there are enough to flock the whole ifland ; the prefent confilled of two fows, two boars, four hens, and two cocks ; we 3ikevvife gave him feveral ufeful feeds, and inftru61ed him in the manner of letting them. The Adventure was now a good way to leeward, and we were obliged to tack, flie was confequently fcparatcd from us ; but we were joined by her on the 24th. The wind was nov/ very high, fo that we could carry hardly any fail ; wc endeavoured to make Cape 'Pallifer, but we had fuch a hard gale for two days, that drove us olT the land juit as we were in fight of port,. This was very mortifying ; but two favourable circuoTftances attended it, for we were in no danger •of a Jee-fliore, and it wxis fair over head. In the evening of the 2ath, w^e endeavoured to find the Ad- venture, which the llorm had feparated, but without "^ 'cfledl, the weather being fo hazy, that we could not ' fee a mile round us. —'^ ./.... .. ■- . .- • - - •>• On the 28th, we f:iw the Adventure about five miles to leeward, and we kept company with her till the night of the 29t]i, when Ihe difappeared, nor did we fee her at day-light. Charlotte 'Sound was the appointed place ot' rendezvous 3 and as we had fepa- rated «24 CAPTAIN COOK S I i!|' Tatcd from the Adventure, we were obliged to make for it, otherwife Captain Cook would have fought a fupply of wood and water further fouth. We ftood to the eaftward, in hopes of meeting with the Adr venture. , ■ - ... On the 2d of November, the morning was clear, and we kept a fharp look-out for the Adventure ; but as we could not fee her, wc judged flie was got into the Sound, We accordingly made for the ihorc,.nnd anchored in twelve fathoms water, when feverai of the inhabitants came on board, who were cxnava gantly fond of nails. We ran up into Ship Cove on the 3d, where we expeQed to nnd the Adventure, but were difappointed.. Here we were obliged to unbend the fails, which had been very much dauia^jt-d in the late ftorms. Several people came on i:'Ou! d, who remembered the Endeavour when on this cualh The empty cafks were ordered on fliore, and the ne- •celfary repairs both to them and the fliip were ordered to be made. ' ■ . .'On the 5ih, one of the natives took an opportu- nity of dealing one of the feamen's bag of cloaths, which with fome difficulty we recovered. This made our people more cautious in future. Several Grangers came to vifit us in five canoes, they took up their •quarters in a cave near us, and decamped the nexl: morning with fix of our fmall water calks. All the people whom we found on our arrival like wife weivt with them. On the 22d, our officers vifited the dwelling-places of feveral of the natives, found fome human bones, from which the flefli appeared to be lately taken ; and* on the 23d, they being on Ihore., faw the head and ■bowels of a youth, lately killed, lying on the beach ; his heart was ftuck on a fork, and fixed at the fore- part of one of the largeft canoes. It is certain that the New Zealanders are cannibals, which this circum- ftance fully proves ; but from all we could learn, they only eat the iiefli of thofe flain in battle. ^ Before i i '■y SECOND VOYAGE. 225 Before we quitted the Sound, we left a memo- randum, fettinj^ forth the day oFour departure, what courfe we intended lleering, &c. and buried it in a bottle, where It mu(t be difeovered, lliould Captain Furneaux touch here, though we did not place any great expeclation in luch an event. We failed from bence on the 25th of November, and fought the Ad- venture in feveral harbours, but without elfecl. All hopes of feeing her again were now vanilhed, and we fet about our intended difcoveries by ourfelves. On the 2111:, we came the fecond time within the antartic circle ; and on a fudden got among a great quantity of loofe ice, and a clufter of ice iflands, which it was verv dithcult to llecr clear of, as the fosr was very thick. On the 24th, they increafed fo fall: upon us, that we could fee near one hundred round us, befides an altonifliing quantity of fmali pieces. Here w^e fpent the 25th, being Chrilhijas-day, in much the fame manner as we did the preceding one. On the 2d of January, 1774, we (leered N. W. in order to explore great part of the fea between us and our track to the foUth ; but were obhged to iteer north-eaderly the next day, and could not accomplini our defign. On the 25th, we found ourfelves in a pleafant climate, and no ice in view ; and on the 26th, came a third time within the antartic circle. <* ,j • On the 30th, we faw a very extenlive field of ice, and within the field, we diftindtly enumerated ninety- . feven ice hills, of various ilzes ; it is probable that fuch mountains of ice were never feen in the Green- land feas. On this account, the attempt to get far^ ther to the fouth, though not abfolutely impollible, was yet both ralh and dangerous. The majority of us were of opinion that ice extended to the pole, as it might poflibly join fome land to which it had been contiguous fmce the carliefi: times. Should there be land to the fouth behind this ice, it certainly can af- ford no better retreat for man, beaft, or birds, than the ice itfelf, with which it mull certainly be covered. As we could not go any farther to the fouth, we 10 F f thought 220 CAPTAIN cook's "mi thought it advifcable to tack, and Itand back to the north, being at this time in Jat. 71 dcg. 10 min. S. and 106 deg. 54 min. W. llajipily for us we tacked in good time j for wc had no fooncr done it, than a thick fog came on, which would have been highly dangerous when we fell in wilh the ice. On the 1 ft of February, we were able to take iq fonie more ice, which, thou";h it was coJd work to collecl, ferved us for prefent confumption when melted. Captain Cook was now well latisfied that no continent was to be found in this ocean, but that which is totally inaccelllble ; he therefore determined to pafs the cnfuing winter within the tropic, if he met with no other objeft worth purfuing. It was determined to fteer for Eafler Ifland, or Davis's Land, which we knew very little about ; and we were happy at the thoughts of getting into a warmer climate. We had continual gales from the 8th to the 1 2th inftant, when it fell a dead calm. The weather va- ried every day confiderably till the 2Dth. The fame day, Captain Cook was taken fo ill as to be obliged to keep his bed, and recovered very llowly. It is fomething very extraordinary, that when he could eat nothing elfe, he had a mind to a dog of Mr. Forfter's, which was killed, and he reliflied both the flefl) and the broth made of it. This feems very odd kind of food for a fick man ; and, in the opinion of many people, would create much greater ficknefs than it was likely to be of any means of removing. On the 11th of March, land was feen from the maft-head, which proved to be Eafter Ifland : and pn the 13th, we came to an anchor in 36 fathoms water, before the fandy beach. One of the natives came on board the iliip, where he ftaid two nights. A party of us went aHiore on the 14th, and found a great number of the natives affembled, who were pacifically inclined, and feemed defirous to fee us. We very foan found out that thefe gentlemen were as expert thieves as any before met with ; we could fcarce keep any thing in our pockets, and it was with diffi- culty W i J J ■ SECOND VOYAGE. 227 cutty we could keep our bats upon our heads. Thefe people feemcd to underfland the ufe of a mufket, and to be very much afraid of it. Here were feveral })lantations of potatoes, fugar-canes, and plantains ; but otherwife the country appeared barren and with- out food. As the natives did not feem willing to part with thefe articles, and as we were in want of them, we determined to ftay only a few days. A party of officers and men were fent up the country in order to examine it ; and Captain Cook remained on Ihore among the natives. An advan- tageous trade for potatoes was opened, but foon put a ftop to by the owners of the fpot from whence they were dug. It feems that they had ftolcn thefe pota- toes J for they all ran away at his approach. From this circumftance it is pretty evident, that they are not more ftriftly honeft among themfelves thantbftrangers. They found the greateft part of the ifland barren, though in many places there were plantations of the roots before mentioned. Travelling on, they found iii fome places a poor fort of iron ore, and afterwards came to a fruitful part f^f the ifland on which were feveral plantations. They could get no good water in their journey ; but were obliged to drink what they could get, on ac- count of the extremity of their third. They found the natives fo addicted to theft, that they were obliged to fire fome fmall fhot at a man who took from them their bag of provifions and implements. The fliot hit this fellow in the back, on which he dropped the bag and fell ; but he foon afterwards got up and walked ofl^. The man ran round them and repeated feveral words, which they could not underftand ; and afterwards they were good friends together, no one ever attempting to Iteal anymore. Many of our people gained the fummit of an hill, but could not fee any bay or creek, nor difcover any figns of frefh water. They returned to the fhip in the evening. No Ihrubs worth mentioning were Ff2 round ff ■I-:. 228 CAPTAIN COOK S j'-V'iJ found in this cxcurllon, ncitlier did they fee an animd of any fort, and but very few birds. They could not difcover any thing in the whole iiland to induce (hips in the utnioll diitrefsto touch at. • • 1. >>.l .^■^■ ;i ^n ■•H../; ; i ij.fi M: ■ : » I ' : 1 ( ! ,' '.I' C1IA1\ V. ' ' >■^^^•^\' The Rcfolitti on falls from Eafer Ijland to the Marque^ fas — Departs from the Mar(jucjin\ zvUh an accouiU ^^. of the inhabUanfSy !isc. — The UefoUition leaves Ota- ... . hcite — Iler arrival at the Ijland Iluahelne — / ^arious j.ineldents related — Tlie fhip proceeds to Ulletea — ■ Incidents during her Jiay, and tlie character of Oedldee. ., ,,. .. ..,:.,....; ..^ .,,...,.!; 'v .Li's a f-i. iC\ ••I' t \ /« ■! If .\ . Vl tfl 1 1' ■ I .L'\' ON tlic 16th of March, we took our departure from Eailer Ifle, and rteered for the Marquefas iilands, intending to make ibme ftay there, if nothing material intervened. On the 6th of April, we difco- vcred an iiland, when in hit. 9 deg. 20 min. and Ion. 138 deg. ll min. we were about nine leagues diftance from it. We foon difcovered another, afterwards a third and fourth ^ thefe were the Marquefas, difco- vered in 1595. After various unfuccefsful trials to come to an anchor, we came at laft before Mendana's port, and anchored in thirty-four fathoms v/ater, at the entrance of the bay. Several canoes appeared, filled with natives, but it was with fome ditliculty they were perfuaded to come along-fide J they were at laft induced by fome fpike nails and a hatchet» From thefe people we got fome iifli and fruit. Great numbers of them cam^ alpng-lide next morning, and brought with them one pig, fome bread-fruit and plantair.s, for which they received nails. We often dete61ed them in keeping our goods, and making no return -, v^hich pra61ice was not put a flop to till Captain Cook fired a mnlket ball over the head of one man, who had repeatedly fervcdusfo. i ju.i o-^iiu /iiui ;:uoiiv* jia ^in^ - . \ When .^ ,u M,;; i ):.i. SECOND V0YAG2. 220 got ICll \Vhen Captain Cook faw there were too many na- tives on board, he deiired that they might be well looked after, or they would certainly commit many thefts. Before the captain was well got into the boat, he was told that a .canoe, with fome men in her, were makinjj off with one of the iron llanchions from the oppofite gangway. The captain immediately ordered them to inc over tlie canoe, but not to kill any body. There was fuch a noife on board, that his orders were not diltin6tiy heard, and the poor thief was killed at the third (hot. The rell that were in the canoe leaped overboard, but got in again ju(b as Captain Cook came up to them, and threw over- board the flanchion. ^ • ■•.''•« One of the men fat lauq-hinfx as he laded the blood' and water out of the boat, but the other looked very ferious and dejetted. We afterwards had teafon tcv think that the father of the latter had been (hot. The natives retired with great precipitation at this un- happy accident J but their fears were in fome meafure allayed by the captain's following them into the bay,, and making them prefents. A man who had the appearance of a chief, came off to us with a pig upon his (boulder ; he was pre- fented with a hatchet in return, and afterwards great numbers of the natives came along-fide, and carried on fome traffic. Peace bein^: now citabliflied, ano- ther party ot men were fent afliorc. The natives re- ceived us civilly, and we got a fupply of water, as well as fome hogs and fruit. On the 9th, wc col- le6ted a good many pigs and other refreihments, and returned on board in the evening. Wc alfo obtained feveral pigs from the different canoes that came along- lide of us on the lOth, and by this time we had a fuf- ficient number to afford the crews a frefli meaL .;^^i We were novv determined to remove our quarters^ and make fail for Otaheite, hoping, to fall in with fome of thofe iflands, where our wants might effec- tually be relieved. We had been nineteen weeks at fea, living the whole time upon fait provifions, and * . therefore 2S0 CAPTAIN cook's therefore could not but want fomc rcfrcflimcnts ; yet we mud own, with griitcful acknowledgments to goodnefs fuprcme, that on our arrival here, it could Icarcely be laid we had one man (ick, and but a tew who had the leail: complaint. On the 14th, we weighed from St. Chriftina, and ftood over for La Dominica, and the night was fpent in plying between the two ifles. On the 12th, we fteered to the S. and at five P. M. Refolution Bay bore E. N. E. half E. didant five leagues, and the ifland of Magdalena about nine leagues, which was the only view we had of it. On the 20th, hauling round the weft end of the I'ilands, we found a great fwell, rolling in from the S. by which we knew we were clear of thefe low iflands; and being not within fight of land, made the beft of our way to Otaheite, having a ftrong gale at E. at- tended with lliowers of rain. On the 21 ft, we made the high land of Otaheite ; by fun-fet was in with Point Venus, and the next morning anchored in Ma- tavai Bay, in feven fathoms water. Our arr' 1 was no fooner known to the natives, than they [ us a vifit, expreffed the moft lively congratulations, and fupplied us with filh and fruit fufficient for all the crew. On the 24th, Otoo and other chiefs, with a train of attendants, brought us ten large hogs, befides fruit, which made their vifit exceedingly agreeable. As the king's coming had been announced to us, and knowing how much it was our intereft to keep this chief our friend. Captain Cook met him at the tents, and conduced his retinuCj with himfelf, on board, where they ftaid dinner, and appeared highly pleafed with their reception. Next day, notwithftanding we had much thunder, lightning, and rain, the king came again to fee us, and brought with him ano- ther prefent. When at Amfterdam, we hac||pol- ]e6ted, among other curiofities, fome red parrot feathers. Thefe precious valuables procured us -i. , ,^. . hogs,. SECOND VOYAGE. 231 hogs, fruit, and every otlicr thing the ifland af- forded. On the2Gth, Captain Cook, accompanied by fomc of the officers and gentlemen, went down to Oparree, to vifit Otoo by api)olntmcnt. When arrived, we faw a large number or canoes in motion, but were much furprifcd at perceiving more than 300 ranged along iliore, all completely equipped and manned ; beiides a vaft number of armed men on the ihore. We landed in the midll of them, and were received by a valt muliilude, fomc under arms, and fome not. The cry of the former was Tiyono, and Towha, and the litter Tiyono Otoo. Towha was admiral, or com- mander of the fleet. Upon our landing, we were met by a chief, named Tee, uncle to the king, of whom we enquired for Otoo. Soon after we were met by Towha, who received us in a friendly manner. He took Captain Cook by the one hand, and Tee by the other, and dragged them, as it were, through the crowd that was divided int ) two parties, both of , which proclaimed themfelves his friends. One party wanted him to go to Otoo, and the other to remain with Towha. When come to the ufual place of au- dience. Tee left us to go and bring the king. Towha inlilled on the captain's going with him, but would • not confent. Tee being defirous of condu6ting the captain to the king, Towha oppofed, and he was obliged to defire Tee to defilt, and to leave him to the admiral and his party, who conducted him to th^ fieet. When we came to the fleet, wc told 160 large double canoes, equipped, manned, and armed. The chiefs, and all thofe on the fighting ftages were ha- bited in cloth, turbans, breaft-plates, and helmets. -. Their velfels were full dreffed with flags, ilreamers,^ 8ic. fo that the fleet made fuch a noble appearance, as 've had never before feen in. this fea, and what no one could have expected. Their inftrumenls of war ■were clubs, fpears, and ft:ones. We counted, ex- \ clufive of the veflels of war, 170 fail of fmallcr double -. canoes. "32 CAPTAIN COOK S canoes, all rlg'^ed with maR and fail, which the war raiioes had not. Ihefe we judj^cd were defigncd for Iranrports, vichiallers^ &c. for in the war canoes were r.o forts ot })roviiions whatever. We conjecbired that in thefe 330 veOels, there were no lefs than "760 men ; a number incredible, cfpecially as \\q are told they all belonged to the dif- trids of Attahouroi! and Ahopatea. Having viewecj this lieet, it was our intention to have gone on board, coald we have in^iici the admiral. At lafr Tee came, bv whom we were informed, that he was g-one to Matavai. When we got to Matavai, our friends told lis, that tiiis fleet was part of the armament intended to go againfl Kimeo, whofc chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite. On the 27th, in the morning. Il owha fent us by his fervants, two large hogs and fome fruit. The bearers of this prefent had orders not to receive any thing in return, nui would they when offered them. Some of our gentlemen went with the captain in his boat to Oparree, where we found Towha and the ki,ng y after a lliort vifit, he brought them both on board, together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother. When they drew near the Ihip, the admi- ral, who had never fecn one before, expreffed ftrong figns of furprize, and when on board, he was Oiewed, and beheld every part of it with great attention. When Towha retired after dinner, he put a hog on board w ithout' our knowledge, or waiting for a return ; iind ioon a'*i:er Otoo and his attendants dc- ])rirted alfo. On the lit of M.-iy, feveral chiefs fiipplied us with ri large quantity of piovifions ; and the day following our friend Tov.na fent us a prefent of a hog, and a boat loculcd wiih various forts of fruits and roots. On the 7lh, in the morning, we found Otoo at the tents, of whom the captain afl;ed leave to cut down fome trees for fuel. He too!w !iim to a growing near the lea lliore, the better to make him underftand what fort • he wanted J and he feenied much plcafcd when he told him SECOND VOYAGE. 2S3 liina no trees fliould be cut down that bore any kind of fruit. This alTurance from us he repeated (everal times aloud to the people about us. In the afi;ernooii, when en board, we were ho- noured with a vifit from the royal family, confifting of Otoo, his father, brother, and two fifters : but this was properly the father's vifit, who brought the captain a complete mourning drefs, a prefent he much valued j for which he had in return whatever he de- iired, which was not a little ; and to the reft of thf company were prefented red feathers. They were then conducted afhore in the captain's boat. Otoo and his friends were fo well pleafed with the recep- tion they met with, that, at parting, we were granted the liberty to cut down as many trees as we wanted, and what fort we pleafed. x '^ Qn the 8th, our friendly connections with the na- tives were interrupted by the negligence of one of our centinels at the tents, who had his mulket carried' away, he having llept or quitted his poft. We re-: ceived an imperfect account of this affair from Tee,, but underltood enough to know that fomething had' happened, which alarmed the king, who, Tee faid,': was under great apprehenfions of being killed. We' therefore loft no time in going afliore ; and when* landed, were informed of the traiifacfionby the ferjeant who commanded the party. Moft of the natives had* fled at our approaching the tents. Tarevatoo ilipt from us in a moment, and a very few befides Tee had courage to remain. :- We went immediately in fearch of Otoo, and in ' the way endeavoured to allay tlie fears of the people.' Having advanced fome diftancc from the (horc in the country. Tee on a fuddcn ftopped, and advifed our returning, faying, he would proceed to the mountains, whither Otoo had retired, and inform him that we were ftill his friends. Th-s captain thought it was to no purpofe to go farther, we therefore took Tee's advice, and returned on board. ^ da ^ S . ' "• '■ After ^ii a\h- 234 CAPTAIN COOK S m After tills, Oedidee was difpatcbed to the king, to let him know his fears were groundlefs, feeing the captain required of him only what was in his power, the return of the mulket. A fliort time after, we faw fix large canoes coming round Point Venus. Sufpeft- ing that one belonged to thefe that bad committed the theftj it was refolved ij intercept them, for which purpofe a boat was put off, and another ordered to follow. One of the canoes was a-head of the reft, and feemingly making for the fliip. Wc put along-fide of her, and found three women that we knew. They faid they were going aboard the fliip with a prefent to the captain, and that the other canoes were laden with fruit, hogs, &c. Satisfied with this intelligence, the captain recalled his orders for intercepting them, thinkins: thcv alfo, as \vell as this one* were bound for the iliip. ^ --. • *•"; j •• "*«•;• ^;i We therefore left the fingle canoe, and proceeded to (bore, to fpcak with Otoo ; but upon landing, found he had not been there. Looking behind us, we faw all the canoes, the one we had left near the fhip not excepted, making off in the greateft hafte. Vexed at being thus deceived, we refolved to purfue them, and as we paffed the (hip. Captain Cook gave orders to fend out another boat for the fame purpofe. We overtook and brought five out of the fix along- fide, but the one by which we were outwitted got clear 0fl\ "^ ,:•''. ..i-k-, n. ,':;jiw; ./uji i^i;ai. rJf <; llu^- ■^ In one of the prizes was a friend of Mr. Forfter's, Avho had hitherto called himfelf an Earee, alfo three women, his wife, daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaba. At this time Tee and Oedidee came on board, and affured us, that the man who had ftole the mufket was from Tiarabou ; and that we might credit their declaration, they delired us to fend a boat to Wahcatoua, the king of Tiarabou, offering to gO themfclves in her, and recover the mufket. This ftory, though not altogether fatisfaftory, carried with it an air of probability ; and thinking it better to drop •^t'L;„iijyi ')au :>.f!t ft/.u! th«- king, the SECOND VOYAGE. 235 the affair altogether, the captain fuffered Mr. Fofter's iViend to depart with his canoes. The captain then defired Tee to tell Otoo, that he fliould give himlelf no farther concern about the muf- ket, being fatisfied none of his people had committed the theft. We had now given it up, concluding it to be irrecoverably loft, but in the duik of the evening, it was brought to the tents, together with other things we had not miffed, by three men, who, as well as fome other people prefent, affirmed, that it was by one belonging to Maritata, by whom the things had been ftolen ; but we concluded both Tee and Oedidee had intentionally deceived us. On the 9th, Tee came ag.iin aboard to inform us, that Otoo was at Qparree, and requefled of the cap- tain to fend a perfon, to let him underftand if he was ftill his friend. He was afked why he did not do this himfelf as he was defired ; he- made a trifling excufe, but we thought he had not feen Otoo. As the natives brought not any thing to market, and a flop was con- fequently put to our trade with them, it was judged time ill fpent to fend any more fruit lefs mefTages -, a party therefore fet out, with Tee in our company, and having reached the utmoft boundaries of Oparree, the king at laft made his appea ce, . ,? The firfl falutations being jver, and having taken our feats under the fhade of fome trees, Otoo defired the captain to fpeak. He began with blamin ^ the king for giving way to groundlefs alarms, he having always profeffed himfelf his friend, and was difpleafc J only with thofe of Tiarabou, who were th< thieves. The captain was then afked, how he came to fire at the canoes ? By w^ay of excufe, he told him they be- longed to Maritata, one of thofe people who liar' 4olea the mufket, and, .added the captain, " If I liau them in my power, 1 would deflroy them, or any other be- longing to the diftridt of Tiarabou." We knew this declaration would pleafe them, from the natural averfion the one kingdom has to the other ; and it Was enforced by prefents, which we believe were -. G g 2 the 236 CAPTAIN COOK S H I the llrongeft arguments in favour of a reconcilia- tion : for after tliefe weighty reafons, things were foon reftorcd to their former flate, by Otoo's pro- mifing, on the word of a king, that we fliould be fupplied the next day with provifions and fruit as ufual. Peace and amity being now once more eftabliflied, we accompanied him to his proper reikk nee at Opar- ree, where he obliged us with a view of fome of his dock-yards, where we faw feveral large canoes, fome building, and others lately built, fome of which were the largell we had ever feen. Having gratified our curiofity, we repaired on board with Tee in our com- pany, who, after he had dined with us, went to ac- quaint Happi, the king's father, that ail dift'erences were brought to a happy conclulion. In the afternoon, Otoo himfe If brought us a large fupply of provifions, and prcfently after, more fruit was brought us than we knew what to do with : for the natives, we believe, thought themfelves injured equally with ourfelves -, and we knew they had every thing ready for our market, when they w-ere permit- ted to bring them. Otoo deiiring to fee fome of our great guns fired, his with was complied with, but the light, being entirely new, gave him as much pain as pleafure j but in the evening, when we entertained him with a ihew of fire-works, he expreifed mucli greater fatisfaction. On the nth, a large fuf)ply of fruit came to mar- ket, and among the reft a prefent from Towha, the admiral ; for wliic h the captain made a fuitable re- turn. At this time all luc neceiiary repairs of the ihip. being nearly liniflied, it was refoived to leave Ota- heite in a few days ; to this end every thing was or- dered oflTfrom the ihore, that tlie nativ^es might not fee we were about to leave. And next day, Oberea,. whom w^e had not feen fince 1769, paid us a vifit, bringing with iier hogs and fruii. Otoo alfo came foon after, with a numberof atl ndants, and a large quantity ot provifions. Captiuu Cook was very ge-r ... nerous nei enl be wh SECOND VOVAdE. 23t nerous in bis rctui'ns of prefents, and in the evening; entertained them with fire-works, thinking it might be the la^ time we might fee thefe friencll?^ people, who had fo liberally relieved our wants. On the 13th, we were not ready to fail, but the wind was favourable, and the weather fair Oedidce was not yet returned from Attahourou, and various- reports wer^e circulated concerning him. Some faid he was at Matavai ; others that he intended 'not to return j and there were thofe who affirmed he was at Oparree. With a view of difcovering the truth, a party of us repaired to Oparree, where we found him. Towha was alfo here, who, notwithftanding he w^as afflicted with a fwelling in his feet and legs, never-, thclefs, refoived to fee the captain before he failed^ and had advanced with this intent thus far on his journey. The day being far fpent, we were obliged to Ihorten our ftay, and after having fecn Otoo, we . returned on board with Oedidce. This youth, we found, was defirous of remaining at Otaheite ; the captain, therefore, told him he was- at liberty to remain there, or to quit us at Ulietea, or go with us to England. That if the latter was his choice, he muft look upon him as his father, as it was very probable he would never return to his own coun- try. The youth threw his arms about his neck, wept much, and faid, many of his friends perfuaded him to remain at Otaheite. Oedidce was well beloved in the fliip, on which account every one was perfuading him to go with us. ' , On the 14th, early in the morning, Oedidee came on board, and Mr. F'orfter prevailed upon him to go w^ith us to Ulietea. Towha, Potatou, Oamo, Happi^ Oberea, and many more of our friends, j)aid us a viiit. The wife of Towha was with him ; this chief was hoifted in, and placed on a chair on the quarter-Heck. Among other prefents, wc gave the admiral an Eng- liih pendant, which, after he had been inftru61ed in the ufe of it, pleafed him more than all the relt. The fame day the king, and Tee, his prime minifter, came 2 38 (I' u- CAPTAIN COOK S came on board, and brought with them a hog, and a turtle of about lixty pounds weight, who, after remaining'On- board fome time, took an affectionate farewel. ■•i,.:.- !•»;,»♦ ' -mvi r" y- Ys.On Sunday the 15th, we put to fea, with a fine breeze in our favour, and purfued our voyage to the N. W. and N. VV« by W. The fame night we made the ifland of Huaheine, and anchored in the north en- trance of O'Wharre harbour. Oree, the chief, and feveral of the natives paid us vifits. Oree, among other articles, brought with him a hog ; and the next day. Captain Cook returned Oree's vifit, prefenting to him fome red feathers, v^^hich he held in his hand, and muttered over them a prayer. This morning the people began to bring us fruit. The chief fent us two hogs, which were followed by himfelf and friends, who came to dine with us. Oree afked for axes and nails, which were readily given him. > i-q^;' ■ h-.:- After dinner, Mr. Forller, and a party with him, went up the country to examine its productions ; which he continued as a daily talk during the fliip's continuance in this harbour. As a fervant of Mr. Forfter's was walking along the Ihore, without a companion, he was befet by feveral ftout fellows, who would have dripped him, had not fome of our people arrived to his alliltance. One of the men made off with a hatchet This dav the number of na- lives that came about the Ihip was fo great, that it was found neceffary to place centinels in the gangways to prevent the men from coming on board ; but no oppofition was made to the women, fo that the fliip was crouded with them. 'i ,\/;>-ii<^!.h i'j.uh ■]■* --^y.-t On the 17th, we found Oree, and a great number of the principal people, affembled in a houfe confult- ing together. We heard the late robbery mentioned by them feveral times ; but the chief affured us, nei- ther himfelf nor his friends had any hand in the fame, and defired Captain Cook to kill with his guns thole that had. We could not learn where the robbers were gone, and therefore, at prefent, took no more notice SECOND VOYAGE. 259 next- notice of the affair. In the evening a dramatic entertain- ment was exhibited. The fubjed of the piece was that of a girl running away with us from Otaheite. This was not wholly a fidtion, for a girl had taken her paflage with us from Ulietea, and was at this time prefent when her own adventures were reprefented : (he could hardly refrain from tears while the play was ading ; and it was with much difficulty we perfuaded her to flay out the entertainment. At the conclufion of the piece, the girl's return to her friends was reprefented ; and the reception (he met with was not a favourable one. It is very probable that this part ot the comedy was defigned to deter others from going away with us. On the i8th, king Oree came on board and dined, and the captain, at his defire, ordered the great guns to be (hotted, and fired into the water, by way of a falute at his arrival and departure ; indeed he had by Oedidee given us to underftand, that he expected t!ie fame ho- nours to be paid to him, as had been (hewn to the chiefs of Otaheite. jUi; -r i(ii,',« vrni^i A party of petty officers having obtained leave to amufe themfelves in the country, they took w^ith them fome hatchets, nails, &c. in bags, which were carried by two natives, who went with them as their guides. Thefe fellows made off wilh the truft repofed in them, and artfully enough effeded their eicape. The party had with them two muikets ; and after it had rained fome time, the natives pointed out fome birds for them to flioot. One of the guns went off, and the other miffed fire feveral times. At this inflant, when the fel- lows law themfelves fccure from both, they took the opportunity to run away, and not one of the party, be- ing all much furprifed, had prefence of mind enough to purfue them, b vmu:, ,y.^\\) nmioi -.n i\i^ ' i?i? mvj On the 19th, a report was current, that the natives intended to rife and attack the fliip. The captain, though he did not think them ferious in fuch an at- tempt, yet was unwilling totally to difregard the inti- mation : he therefore ordered twenty (land of arms to be in readinefs, in cafe any commotion (liould be ob- (erved '240 CAPTAIN cook's ferved among them ; but thougli the rumour in^ -crcafed throughout the clay, yet no preparations could be perceived to countenance luch a report ; and the king continued his vifits as ufual, never coming empty ■handed. ;. On the 20th, the firft and fccond lieutenants, with one of the mates, being out on a (hooting party, they were befet by more than fifty of the natives, who firft took from them their arms, and then robbed them of what articles they had carried with them to trade. in the fcuffle, the firft lieutenant loft the fkirt of his •coat, and one of the other gentlemen received a fevere blow. When the robbers had ftripped them of their merchandizes, they reftored to them their fowling pieces. When this tranfadion came to the knowledge of Captain Cook, he went immediately with a boat's crew on fliore, and entered a large houle wherein were two chiefs. This, with all their effects, he took pof- feffion of, and remained there till he heard that the gentlemen had got fafe on board, and had all their things reftored to them. Oedidee informed us, Oree was ib much afFedled with the relation of this, that he wept much. When on board, we learnt from the offi- cers themfelves, that a fmall infult on their part was the occafion of the affray ; but fomc chiefs inter- fering, took the officers out of le croud, and caufed every thing which had been taken from them to be reftored. ' • " ' ' • ..:i •»;:-: "■'On the 2 1 ft, we faw upwards of fixty canoes, moft of the people in them being Eareeoies, fleering for Uli- ctca, and we heard they were going to vifit their bre- thren in the neighbouring iflands. It feems thefe peo-'^ pie have cuftoms among them peculiar to themlelves j and affift each other when neceffity requires : we may therefore call them the Free Mafons of Huaheine. This day Oree fent a mellage to Captain Cook, de- liring he would come on ihore, and bring twenty-two men with him, in order to chaftife the robbers. Oedi- dee brought with him twenty-two pieces of leaves to ailjft his memory, a cuftom very common among thefe people. SECOND VOYAGE. 241 people. This mclTage feemed to be an extraordinary one, and therefore the captain went to the chief for better information. Oree informed him that thefe fellows were a let of banditti, who had formed them- felves into a body, and had refolved to rob all they met, for which purpofe they were now aflembled and armed. Thefe robbers Oree wanted us to attack, the captain faid they would fly to the mountains j but he aflijred us to the contrary, and defired we would defttoy both them and their habitations, only fparing their canoes. This requefl feemed extraordinary, but the captain was refolved to comply with it in part, left thefe fellows (liould make more head, and become formidable ; and alfo with a view of preventing the re- port from gaining ground in Ulietea, where we in- tended going, and we were apprehenfive aflbciations might be formed in like manner, and the people might treat us in the fame way, or worfe, they being more numerous. . , ; ..,;,;'. Captain Cook and his officers made ready to accom- pany king Oree in the expedition againft the robbers ; and having ordered fifty marines, with fome failors, to be well armed, they landed near the palace of the king, and having required him to conduct them according to his promife, he very readily confented, and they all fet out together in very good order. The party increafed as we proceeded ; and Oedidee told us, that feveral of the banditti had joined us, with a view of decoying us into a place where they might attack us to advantage. As we could place no confidence in any other perfon, we took his advice, and proceeded^? -with caution. We marched feveral miles, when Captain Cook de- clared he would proceed no farther ; bcfides, we were informed that the men had fled to the mountains. At this time we were about to crofs a deep valley, with Iteep rocks on each fide, where our retreat might have been rendered difficult, by a few men aflaulting us with ftones. Oedidee perfifted in his opinion j and we marched back in the fame order as we came. 11 Hh As 21'2 CAPTAIN COOK S As we went along, we obferved feveral people com- ing down the fides of the hills with clubs, which they immediately hid when they found we law them. This was fome confirmation ol Oedidee's fufpicions ; but we could not perfuade ourfelves that the chief had any fuch intention, whatever might be the deligns of his people. In our return we halted in a convenient place, and wanting fome refrefliments, they were immediately brought us. , , When we arrived at the landing-place, we difcharged feveral volleys, to convince the natives, that we could fupport a continual fire 5 after which we returned on board, and the thief dined with us, having brought with him a hog ready dreffed. After dinner we re- ceived a great number of prefents as peace-offerings. Two chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and loine young plantain trees, and with due ceremony pre- fented them fingiy to the captain Another brought a very large hog, with which he had followed us to the fliip. A quantity of fruit was brought us by others j fo that we were likely to ;iiakc more by this little excur- lion, than by ail the prclcnts we had made them ; and the expedition had one good effcdl: at lead, for the people were convinced that mulkets were more terrible things than they at firft imagined. We were promifed a larger fupply of hogs and fruit the next day ; but the chief was not fo good as his word. Wc went aOiore in the afternoon, and found him fitting down to dinner. The people about him im- mediately began chewing the pepper root j a cup of the juice was prefented to Captain Cook, but he did not like the method of brewing it. Oedidee was not fo nice^ ,and immediately fwallowed what the captain rcfufed. The chief walhed his moutti with cocoa-nut water after he had taken the juice of the pepper-root, and ate a large quantity of plantain, repc, and mahee, and finiflied his dinner by eating and drinking a compofition of plantains, bread fruit, mahee, &c. of the confidence ot a cuf^ard ; of ilus he took about three pints. He dined m the open air, at the outfide of his houfe, and 'Ot SECOND VOYAGE. 245 during dinner time a play was performing within the houfe. On the 23d, we put to fca. The chief and Captain Cook took an affcdionate leave of each other. When Ojce heard that we never intended coming there any- more, he faid, " Let your fons come, we will treat them well." We did not get a fufficient fupply of hogs at this ifland, though they did not appear to be fcarce j but we obtained more fruit than we well knew what to do with. Our flock in trade being nearly cxhaufled, we found it neceflary to fet the fmiths to work, in making different forts of iron tools, that an influence might be kept up at the other iflands, and to enable us to procure refrelhments. On the 24th, we anchored in Ulietea, and was vi- fited by Oreo the chief, who broughi. with him a hand- fome prefent. A party of us went afiiore to make the chief a prefent, and as we entered his houfe we were met by five old women, who lamented very bitterly^ and cut their frees in a fliocking manner. TCkis was* not the wofft part of the flory, for we were "(Obliged to fubmit to their amiable embraces, and get ourfelves covered with blood. After this ceremony was over, they waQied themlelves, and appeared as chearful as any other perfon. On the 27th, Oreo paid us a vifit, in company with' his wife, fon, and daughter, and brought with them a very haiidlome prefent of all kinds of refrefhments. We accompanied them on fhore after dinner, and were entertained with a play, which concluded with the re- prefentation of a woman in labour, performed by a fet of brawny fellows ; the child that was brought forth was at leafl fix feet high. As foon as the child was de- livered, they prelfed his nofe, which Teemed to indicate that they really take this method with all their children, which occafions that fiatnefs which their nofes generally have. On the 29th, feveral things were ilolen out of our boats, which lay at the buoy j b'lt on application to the chief, we had them all returned, except an iron H h z tiller. 244 CAPTAIN COOK S tiller, and in lieu of tiiat they broiiglit us two large hogs. On the 30th, a ()arty of us let out for Ocdi- '^lee's eftate, accompanied by the chief and his family. When we arrived there, we found that Oedidce could not command any thing, though he had promiicd us hogs and fruit in abundance ; they were new in poflef- fion of his brother. We had here an opportunity of feeing them kill and drefs a pig, which was done in the following manner: three men firfl ftrangled the hog ; the hog was laid on his back, two men laid a ftick acrofs his throat, prefling at each end, the third man fluffed up his fundament with grais, and held his hind legs. The hog was kept in this polltion for ten mi- nutes, before he was dead. An oven, which was clofe by, was heated. They laid the hog on the fire as foon as he was dead, and finged off his hair j he was then carried to the fea-fide and waflied. The carcafe was then laid on clean green leaves, that it might be opened. They firfl rook out the lard, and laid it on a green leaf, the entrails were then taken out and carried away in a ba/kct ; the blood was put into a large leaf. The hog was then wallied quite clean, and feveral hot ftone. were put into his body ; it was then placed in the oven on his belly, the lard and fat were put into a veliel, with two or three hot floncs, and placed along-fide the hog ; the blood was tied up in a leaf, with a hot (lone, and put into the oven ; they covered the whole with leaves, on which they placed the remainder of the hot (lones i they afterwards threw a great deal of rubbi(h in, and covered the whole with earth. A table was fpread with green leaves, while the hog was baking, which took up little more than two hours. We fat down at one end of the table, and the natives, who dined with us, at the other ; the fat and blood were placed before them, and the hog before us. We thought the pork exceeding good indeed, and every part of it was well done. The natives chiefly dined off the fat and blood, and faid it was very good victuals. The whole of this cookery was con- l ducted with remarkable cleanlinefs. This eflate of Oe- i didee wai fmall, but very pleafant , and the houfes * : • ,, " ♦ ' :. ' ■ formed SECOND VOYAGi: '215 formed a pretty village. After wc luul clinctl, \vc re- turned to the Ihij). In our way wc law four wooden images, each two feet long. They flood on a Ihclf, had a large piece of cloth round the mitldle, a turban on their heads, (luck with cocks feathers. They told us thefe were th(Mr lervants gods. On the 41 h of June, the chief and his family came on board tu take leave, bringing a handfome prefent with them. We were very much importuned to return to this place ; wlien we told them wc could .no*:, their grief was bitter, and wc beli'^ved it to be real. They defu'cd Captain Cook to acquaint them with his burial place, and faid they vviould be buried with him. A (Irong proof of aflfedion and attachment. We left Oe- didee here, as we could not promife that more (hips would be fent from England to thofe iflands : he left us with infinite regret. Oedidee did not leave us till wc were out of the harbour, and llaid to fire (ome guns, it being his Fvlajjfly's birth-day. This youth was of a gentle, docile, humane dilpofuion, and would have been a better Ipecimen of the natives than Omiah. CHAP. VI. ,!? ./j j* ^~^,.«i. v« - ? On the 3d, we fent a boat on fliore to get fome wood if pollible, being much in want of that article -, but our people could not land on account of a high furf of the fea ; and they faw not any natives on that part of the ille. Having anchored in feventeen fathoms water, under the N. W. fide of the head of the land, we faw feveral people on the fliore, fome endeavouring to fwim off to us ; but they all re- tired when they perceived our boat approach towards them. ^ i-"-* .'T^'y'rh 'V /^ ■•?■» 'i .. > .-, .,■-■• ^^' ■■''• . '.''. • ■' On the 14th, a party went out armed to find a proper landing-place, and where we might gain a fupply of wood and water. We gave the inhabitants fome niedals, &c. with which they appeared much pleafed, and dire£led us to a bay fit for our purpofe. As we went along the fliore, their numbers increafed prodigioufly. We tried feveral places to land, but did not approve of their fituation. At length we came to a fine fandy beach, where Captain Cook fl:epped out witho'it wetting his foot. The inhabitants re- ceived him with great politenefs. One of them, who appeared to be a chief, made the natives form a femi- circle round the head of the boat, and chaftifed fuch as attempted to prevent it. Their behaviour was in every re4>e6t agreeable, yet we did not much like their appearance, as they were all armed with, bows, arrows, fpears, and darts. On this account we kept a good look out, and watched particularly the mo- tions of the chief, who wanted us to haul the boat on fliore. '■ He renewed his figns for this to be done, and then held a conference with fome of the natives. One circumftance appeared rather fufpicious, he re- fufed fome fpike nails that we offered him. Captain Cook immediately returned to the boat, upon which they Utfeiupted by force to detain us. Very fortu- nately tb« gang-board happened to be laid out for the captain K> return into the boat ; this fome of the na- tives unhopked from the ftcrn as v^e were putting off > -' . '. i''7/..' ,.(0i» jfij -"in-f .■'•r'.. • .' thej j-rr Mf (' SECOND VOYAGE. 251 they hooked it to the head of the boat, and attempted to haul her on (hore. Some of them were daring enough to take the oars out of the hands of our peo- ple. They in fome meafure defifted on Capt. Cook*s prefenting a mulket, but went on again in an inftant, leemingly determined to haul the boat on Ihore, and to detain us. The chief was at the head of this party, and others flood at a fmall diftance behind, with ftones, darts, and other miffile weapons, ready to fupport them. Our own fafety was now become our only confideration, for ligns and threats had not the effeft we expefted. The captain therefore refolved to make the chief fuffer alone, a vi£lim to his oWn treachery ; but at this critical moment his piece did not go off. This increafed their infolence, and they began to affault us with ftones, darts, and arrows. We were now ordered to fire. The firft" difcharge threw them into confufion, but they were very re- lutlantly driven off the beach with the fecond. After this they continued a kind of bufli-fighting, by throw- ing ftones from behind trees, and fometimes a dart or two. Four of them lay to all appearance dead on the fliore, but tv/o of them afterwards crawled in among the bufhes. That they might underftand the effect of our great guns, we fired a four-pound (hot at them, which, though it fell Ihort, terrified them fo much, that we faw no more of them. On the 5th of Auguft, we weighed anchorj and got clear of the bay, and fleered for the S. end of the ifland. We difcovcred on the S. W. fide of the head, a pretty deep bay ; its fliores low, and the land ap- peared to be fertile ; but being expofed to the S. E. winds, until better known, we thought the N, W. fide preferable. >-•''»*• r^- ;.,(< -Lf-r ,^ <,,> ... .| , ... > At fun-fet we came in fight of an ifland, being high table land, being E. by S. and alfo 4i^covered anotlier little ifle, which we had pafled in *he night. We now fleered for the ifland, and difcovered a fmall inlet which had the appearance of a good harbour. Two armed boats, under the command of Lieutenant I i 2 Cooper, »f I i ! a 262 CAPTAIN COOK S Cooper, were fent off in order to found, while the fliip flood on and off, to be ready to follow, or to afford any affiflance that might be required. We obferved a number of natives on the fhore, alfo feveral canoes ; and when our boats entered the harbour they launched fome, but came not near. At this time the lieutenant made fignal for anchorage, and we ftood in w'ith the fliip, the Vv^ind having left us when we wdre within the entrance. • • .)!.'<>,,• The boats were now fent out to find a better an- chorage ; and while we were thus employed, many of the natives came in parties |o the fea-fide, all armed ; fome fwam off to us, others came in canoes. At firfl they feemed afraid of us, and kept at a dif- tance, but by degrees waxed bolder, and at length came Under our ftern, and made fome exchanges. Thofe m one of the firft canoes threw towards us fome cocoa-nuts. The captain went out in a boat, picked them up, and in return gave them feveral articles. Others were induced by this to come along-fide, who behaved in a moft infolent manner. They attempted to tear our flag from the ftaff, would have knocked the rings from the rudder, and we had no fooner thrown out the buoys of the boats than they caught hold of them. We fired a few mulkets in the air, of which they took no notice, but a four-pounder alarmed them fo much, that they quitted their canoes, and took to the water. But finding themfelves unhurt, they got again into their canoes, flourifhed their wea- pons, hallooed in defiance, and went again to the buoys, but a few mufquetoon fliot foon difperfed them. They all retired in hafte to the fhore, and we fat down to dinner unmolefled. In the interval of thofe tranfa6tions, an old man, who feemed to. be amicably difpofed, came feveral times, in a fmall canoe between us and the fliore, bringing off each time cocoa-nuts and. yams, for which he took in ex- change whatever we offered him. Another was in the gangway when the great gun was fired, after v/hich we could not prevail with him to f^ay. In the "' - ^ ^ , evening '# •1 1 SECOND VOYAGE. 253 evening we landed at the head of the harbour, with a party of men well armed. The natives made not the leaft oppofition, though we had one body on our right, and another on our left, all armed. We diliributed among the old people fome prefents of cloth and me- dals, and filled two callcs with frefli water. We got in return plenty of cocoa-nuts, but could not prevail on them to part with their weapons, which they held conftantly in a pofture of defence. The old man was one of thefe parties, but by his behaviour we judged him to be pacific. We thought by their prelling fo D" h. in fpite of all our endeavours to keep them at a ^' 's that little would be wanting to induce them to ati. ic us J but we re-embarked very foon, and thus, probably their fcheme was difconcerted. On the 6th, we brought the fhip as near the land- ing-place as pollible, that we might overawe the na- tives, and cover the party on (hore, who were to get afupply of wood and water, which we much wanted. While we were upon this buiinefs, we obferved the natives alTembling from all parts, all armed, to the amount of fome thoufands, who formed thcmfeives into two divifions, as they did the preceding evening, on each fide the landing-place. At intervals a canoe came off, at times conducted by ore, two, or three men, bringing us cocoa-nuts, &c. for which they did not require any thing in return, though we took care they ihould always have fomething : but their principal intention feemed to be, to invite us afhore. The old man before mentioned, came oflf to us feve- ral times, and the captain, with a view of making him underftand that he wanted to eftablifli a friendly intercourfc, took his weapons that were in the canoe, and threw them overboard, and made him a prefent of a piece of cloth. He underftood the meaning of this, for we faw him frequently in converfation with his countrymen, to whom he made our requeft known, going firil to one party, then to another, nor did we afterwards fee him with his weapons, or in a warlike planner. Soon after a canoe, in which were three - men. I 254 CAPTAIN cook's •^ . . . i,. .i men, came under our ftern, one of whom behaved very outrageoufly, brandifhing his club, and ftriking with it the fliip's fide j at laft he offered to exchange his weapon for a firing of beads, and other trifles j thefe we fent down to him by a hne, of which he had no fooner got pofTeflion, than he made off, without delivering his club. We were not forry for this, as it afforded us an opportunity of flievving the people on Ihore the effedts of our fire-arms. We therefore, without hefitation, complimented this fellow with the contents of a fowling-piece, loaded with fm'all fhot, and when the others were out of the reach of niufket fhot, we fired fome mufquetoons, or wall pieces, at them, which made them take to the water. But all this feemed to make very little imprefTion on the peo- ple afhorc, who began to halloo, and feemingly make a joke pf it. Having moored the fliip, with her broad-fide to the landing-place, and fcarcely mufket- Ihot off, we planted our artillery in fuch a manner as to command the whole harbour, and then embarked with a party of feamen, fupported by the marines, and rowed to the landing-place, where the natives were drawn up in two divifions. The intermediate fpace between them was about forty yards, in which were laid a few plain tains, tree roots, and a yam. We made figns for the divifions to retire back, but to thefe they paid not the leaft regard ; their number every moment was augmented, and, except three oM men, not one unarmed. We thought it better to frighten them into a more peaceable behaviour, and therefore a mufket was fired over their heads^ which for a minute had the defired effefcl, but they loori re- turned to their daring behaviour. The ihip was then ordered, by fignal, to fire a few great guhJJ, which prefently difperfed them. We landed, and cut down Ibme trees, which we put into our boats, and a few fmall cafks of water, to let the natives fee what we ciiiefly wanted. Thus far matters were pretty well fettled : we returned on board to dinner^ and they all difperfed. . ' ' On SECOND VOYAGl. 255 On the 7th, the natives began to aflemble agahi, with their weapons, as before, but not in fuch num- bers : notwithftanding this, we landed in order to get water, and cut wood. We found mod of the old people difpofed to be our friends, but the younger being daring and infolent, obliged us to (land to our arms ; but as foon as our people had filled their boats with wood and water, and embarked on board, they all retired in a peaceable manner. On the 13th, an old man came on board,- (whofe name was Paowang) to dine with us. We took this opportunity of fliewing him every part of the flilp^ and a variety of trading articles, hoping he might fee fomething that he liked, and fo a traffic be carried oa with the natives for refrelhments. But Paowang ob- ferved every thing with indifference, except a land- box, of which he took fome notice, and immediately went afhore. On the 15th, preparations were made on board to fet fail. This day one of the botanical party fhot a pigeon, in the craw of which was a nutmeg. Mr. Forfter endeavoured, without fuccefs, to find the tree. During their flay on fhore, they obferved in moft of their fugar plantations deep holes dug, four feet deep, and five m diameter, which, on enquiry,, we found were defigned as traps to catch rats in. Thefe animals, fo deflru^^tive to fugar canes, are here in great plenty. Round the edge of thefe pits, as a decoy, and that the rats may be more liable to tumble in, the canes are planted as thick as pofiTible. On the 16th, we found our tiller much damaged, and by negle£l, we had not a fpare one aboard. We knew of but one tree in the neighbourhood that would do for our purpofe. The carpenter was fent afhore to examine it, and upon his report a party of men were directed to cut it down, after the confent of the natives had been obtained. They did not make the leafl obje£libn, and our men went inflantly to work. Much time was neceffary to cutitdow^n, as the tree was large ; and before they l^ad finiflied their ■'■■ ■ ' ■ -•-■'■^'--■■^--^^^^--■^^. vvrork, i . V\ - • . .- ,* / - 25G CAPTAIN cook's work, word was brought to the captain, that our friend Paowang was not pleafcd. Paowang wasfent for, and our necoflity explained to him. We then made him a prcfcnt of a piece of cloth and a dog, •which obtained his confent, and the voices of thole that were with him in our favour. Having thus obtained our point, we condu£lcd our friend on board to dinner ; after which we went with him aihore, to pay a vifit to an old chief, who was faid'to be the king of the ifland; though, as Pao- wang took little notice ^f him, we doubted the fa6i. His name was Geogy. He had a chearful open coun- tenance, though he was old, and had round his waift abroad red and white chequered belt. His fon was with him, who could not be lefs than 50 years old. At this time a vail concourfe of people were affeni- bled near the watering-place. The behaviour of many was friendly; of others daring and infolent ; which we did not think fudent to refent, as our ftay was nearly at an end. On the 19th, we prepared for failing, as the tiller was finiflicd ; but the wind being unfavourable, the guard and a party of men were fent afliore, to bring off the remainder of the tree from which we had cut the tiller. The captain \vent with them, and found a number of the natives collected together near the landing-place, among whom various articles were diftributed. At the time our people were getting fome large logs into the boat, the centry prefented his piece at one of the natives, and, without the leaft apparent caufe, fired at, and killed him. A few of the natives hadjuft before advanced within the limits, to fee what we were about, but upon being ordered back, they readily obeyed. A fellow of the centry pretended, that a man had laid his arrow acrofs his bow, fo that he apprehended hii^felf in danger ; but this had been frequently done out of a bravado, to iliew they were armed, and prepared equally with ourfelves. Captain Cook was highly exafperated at this rafcal'sralb conduft ^ and moll of the people fled SECOND VOYAGE. 2^7 with the uttnofl precipitation. The natives were thrown into I'uch confliernation, that they brought abundance of fruit, which they laid down at our feet. They all retired when we returned aboard to dinner, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, among whom were Pao- wang and Wha-a-gou. On the 20th, the wind was favourable for getting out of harbour j we began to unmoor, and having weighed, put to fea. The Refolution being the firll fliip that ever entered this harbour. Captain Cook named it Port Refolution. Its lat. is 19 deg. 32 min. 25 lee. and half fouth, and in 169 deg. 44 min. 35 fee. call Ion. The landing place is exceeding convenient for taking in wood and water, both of thefe neceflliry ar- ticles being near the (hore. On the 23d, we came in light of Mallicollo. We were agreeably furprifed with the beauty of the foreft, from whence we favv Imoke afcend in various places, a plain indication of their being inhabited ; the circumjacent land appeared fertile and populous. We obferved troops of natives on leveral parts of the fhore, and two canoes put off to us, but as we did not (horten fail, ihey did not over- take the (hip. On the 24th, we advanced nearly to the middle of the paflage, and the N. W. end of Mallicollo ex- tended from S. 30 deg. E. to S. 58 deg. We now fleered N. by E. then N. along the eaft coaft of the northern land. At firft this coaft appeared continued, but We found it was compofed of leveral low woody iflss, moft of them of fmall extent, except the fouther- moft, which was named St. Bartholomew. We conti- nued our courfe N. N. W. along a fine coaft covered with trees. On the 25th, at day-break, we were on the north lide of the ifland, and fteercd W. along the low land under it, for the blufF-head ; beyond which at iun-ril'e, we faw an elevated coaft, ftretching to the N. as far as N. W. by W. Having doubled the head, we perceived the land to trend S. a little eafterly, and to torm a large deep bay, bounded on the W. by the above-mentioned coaft. At half paft four o'clock P. M. XI K k wc 2.58 CAPTAIN cook's we were only two miles from the W. (hore, to which. we had been drove by a N. E. fwell. Here we faw large bodies of the natives collecled together. Some ventured off in canoes ; but they took fudden fright at fomething, nor could all our figns of friendlhip induce them to come along-ffdc. On the 26th, we were about eight miles from the head of the bay, that is terminated by a low beach j behind which is an extenfive flat covered with wood, and bounded on each fide by a ridge of mountains. We found our lat. at noon to be 15 deg. 5 min. S. and. at one o'clock, having a breeze at N. by W. we fleered up to within two miles of the head of the bay. Mr.. Cfooper and Mr. Gilbert were fent out to reconnoitre, while we flood off and on with the fliip. By this,, time and opportunity were afTorded for three failing canoes to come up, which had been following us. They would not come along- fide, but advanced near enough to receive fuch things as were thrown out to them, faflened to a rope. On the return of the boats, we were informed by Mr. Cooper and others, that they had landed at the head of the bay, near a fine flream of frefli water. We fleered down the bay, being not in want of any thing, and the wind having fhifted to S. S. E. Throughout the forepart of the night, on the weft fide of the fliore, the country was illuminated with fires, from the fea-fhore to the iummit of the mountains. ^„ w ,-^ni r^hjAdmci <>t h . n^y^i ■'■i-f;i ^'i<:ii ^^^ On Satuvday the 27th, at day-break, we found our- felves two thirds down the bay, and at noon we were.; the length of the N. W. point, which bore N. 82 deg. W.^diftant five miles ; and by obfervatipn, our latitude „ wis 14 deg. 39 min. 30. fee Spme of our gentlemeai i were doubtful of this being thCj bay of St^ Philip and l^ St. Jago, becaufe no place anfwer^d to the port of VeralK Cruz J but the captain gave very good reafons for ail contrary opinion. A poinjt is a very vague term, like niany others in geography ; and what Quiros calls the:? port of Vera Cruz,, , might be the whole haven or har-oj bour, or the juichprage at ths hpad of the bay, which xr • Artoh wo inmn rA vA^v^ m ,(bijc ! oJ b^^bn^vinj i;!iiai4 ' . -J A ' . -f- *. • •-!'>' /Ar;\, SECOND VOYAGE. ■' {Ir. '"■ 259 in fome places may extend farther off than where our boats landed. The river was probably one of thofe mentioned by Quiros, and, if we were not deceived, we faw the other. The bay is every where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near the (hores, which arc for the mod part low. It hath fixty miles fea coaft j eighteen on each fide, which lies in the dire(flion of S. half W. and N. half E. fix at the head ; and thirty-fix on the weft fide, the directions of which is S. by E. and N. by W. from the head down to two-thirds of its length, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point. The two points which form the entrance of the bay, are in the dire<5tion of S. 53 deg. E. and N. 53 deg. W. diftant from each other thirty miles. The bay, as well as the flat land at the head of it, is bounded by a ridge of hills : one to the weft is very high, and ex- tends the whole length of the illand. Upon this ap- peared a luxuriant vegetation wherever the eye turned. Rich plantations adorned the fides of the hills, forefts reared their towering heads, and every valley was wa- tered with a running ft ream ; but of all the producv tions of nature the cocoa-nut trees were the moft con- * ibicUOUS. ^^in r;f;j i>:- i;ti*j Jt'.ij \>.j ! um- ;.-/''' '* ;' {" '■ On the 28th and 29th, we took every opportunity when the horizon was clear, to look out for more land,'^ but none was feen ; it is probable there is none nearer than Queen Charlotte's Sourrd. But on the 30th, we . plyed up the coaft with afreCi breeze. "''* On the 31ft, we weathered theS. \V. point of tte, . ifland. The coaft, which tiends eaft-northerly,' is Idw,^ and Teemed to form Ibme creeks or coves j and as we'^ got farth. r into the paftage, we perceived fome low \ ifics lying along it, w\iich leemed to extend behind St. ' Bartholomew's ifland. Having now explored the whole Archipelago, the feaibn of the year made it neceflary to return to the fouth ; but we had yet fome time left * to make obfervatiorts on any land we might difcover""? between this and New Zealand j at which place the captain intended to touch, in order to recruit our ftock K k a of I ill I ^4 N 260 CAPTAIN cook's of wood and water, for another fouthern courfe. 'to this end, at five o'clock P. M. wc tacked, and hauled to the fouthward, with a frefli gale at S. E. At this time the S. W. point of the ifland Tierra del Efpiritu Santo bore north 82 deg. W. which Captain Cook named Cape Lifburne. It lies in lat. 15 deg. 40 min. and in 165 deg. 59 min. E. longitude. CHAP VII. . .. Nezv Caledonia difcovcred — The Refolution is obliged to depart from Caledonia — Continues her voyage to New Zealand — She arrives at ^c2ueen Charlotte's Sound — An account of incidents ivhile the f hip lay there. ON the ift of September, we were out r^ fight of land, and no more was to be feen. We conti- nued our courfe to the S. W. and on the 3d, found our- felves in 19 deg. 49 min. and in 165 deg. E. Ion. On the 4th, we difcovcred land, which at noon extended from S. S. E. to W. by S. diflant fix leagues. At five P. M. we were fix leagues off, when we were flopped by a calm. At this time the land extended from S. E. by S. to W. by N. round by the S. W. but as fome openings were feen in the W. could not determine whe- ther it was one connected land, or acluflerof iflands. On the 5th, we obferved the coafl extended to the S. E. of Cape Colnet, and round by theS. VV. to N. W. by W, We bore down to N. W. and came before an opening that had the appearance of a good channel. We defired to enter it, in order to have an opportuniiy of oblerving an eclipfe of the fun. We therefore lent out two armed boats to lound the channel ; and at the fame time law twelve large lailing canoes near us. All the morning we had obferved them in motion, and com- ing off from different j^arts ; but fome were lyi ig on the reef, filhing as wc imagined. When we hoillcd out our boat; they were pretty near us ; but upon feeding ihi?, v^w^ SECOND VOYAGE. 261 lo |led to time ISanto famed |nd in this, they retuned, and our boats followed them. We now were convinced that what we liad taken for openings in the coail was low land, all conneded, ex- cept the weftein extremity, which, as we afterwards learnt, was an illand called Balabea. The boats having made a fignal for a channel, we flood in with the (hip. The officer of the boats reported, that there v.as good anchorage, and the natives civil and obliging. We proceeded up the bay, and at length anchored in five fathoms water. A great number of the natives furrounded us before we got to anchor, in icS canoes, without any fort of weapons, and we prevailrH upon one boat to come near enough to receive fome prefents. In return, they tied two fiHi to the rope, that dunk intolerably. An inter- courfe being thus opened by mutual exchanges, two of the natives ventured on board the fliip ; pfelently after (lie was filled with them. Some dined with us, but they would not eat fait beef, pork, or peas foup. After dinner time, a party of us went afhore with armed boats, and landed amidfl a great number of peo- ple. They expveflcd a natural furprife at feeing men and things fo nevv^ to them as we v^ere. Prefents were made to luch, as a man, who liad attached himfelf to Captain Cook, pointed out ; but he would not fuffer the captain to give the women who llood behind, any beads or medals. Having by figns enquired for frelh water, ibme pointed to the eafh, others to the wcfl i but our friend undertook to conduft us to it, and for that pur- pofc embarked with us. We rowed near three miles to the E. and entered a narrow creek oniver, which brought us to a little ilraggling village, where he Ihewed us fredi water. The tide not permitting us to flay any longer in the creek, we took leave of thefe amicable people, from whom we had noth/mg to cxpedl but good nature, and the privilege of vifiting their country without moletla- tion, as it waseafy to fee thefe were all they could be- llow. Though tliis did not fatisfy our demands, it; ^avc; us much ca(.b and ihlisfadtion, for they certainly ' '■• * ' ejccellcd i6z CAPTAIN COOK S '\ 1 excelled all the natives we had hitherto met with in friendly civility. . . w ., ,,• -^..,u ',.- , i /t \ . On the 1 2th, early in the morning, the captain be- ing defirous of flocking the country with hogs as well as dogs, he took with him a young boar and fow, and went up the creek, in fearch of his friend, the chief, in order to give them to him. The natives informed us that he lived at fome diftance, but they would fend for him : but he not coming as foon as we expelled, Capt. Cook refolved to give them to the firll man of confe- quence he met with. In confequence of this determina- tion, they were oftered to a grave old man, who flaook his head, and made figns for us to take them into the boat again. On our refufing to comply, thty feemed to hold aconfoltation what was to be done. '- " •< n After tnis, our guide conduced us to the chief, and he accordingly led us to a houfe, where eight or ten ipiiddle aged perfons were feated in a circle. To thefe the captain and his pigs were -formally introduced. They defired the captain, with great courtefy, to be feated, who began to expatiate on the merits of his pigs, explaining to them their nature and cafe, and how they would multiply : in (hort, he enhanced their value as much as poflible, that they might take '.le more care of them. In return for our prelent, we had I'lX yams brought us, after which we returned on board. In the afternoon we made a trip to the fhore, and on a tree near the watering-place, 'an inicription was cut, letting forth the (hip's name, date, &c, as a memorial and proof that we were the lirlt dil'cover^rs of that country. ui.n .»•. .1 jnhN i: v' >■ Having now fully fatisfied our curiofity, we re- turned on board, when the captain ordered all the boats to be hoifted in, that we might be. ready to fail, and put to fea. The inhabitants of this country arc flrong, robufl, adivc, friendly, ccurteous, and not addided to pilfer- ing, as all other nations are in this lea. They have in general good features ; but in fome we law a refcmblance of the negroes ; having thick lips, flat nolb, and fuil (?heeks. SECOND VOYAGE. 2G^ clifieks. Their hair and beards are black. The former is very rough and frizzled. Some have their hair tied up in clubs, and others, as well as the women, wear it cropped fliort. They alfo wear their beards cropped in the fame manner. The women in this ifland are very chafte, and we never heard that any of our people ever obtained the leafl: favour from any one of them. Indeed their ladies would fometinies divert themfelves by going a little afide with our gentlemen, as if they meant to be kind, and then would in a moment run away laughing at them. On the i3tli of September, at fun-rife, we weighed, and flood off for the channel we came in by. At half pad feven we were in the middle of it, when the ifle of Balabea bore W. N. W. At noon we lofb li^lit of Ba- labea, and at three o'clock, we run by a low landy ifle. At fun-fet, we could juft fee the land, which bore S. W. by S. about ten leagues diftant. No land \vas to be ken m this diredion ; lb that every appearance flattered our expedations, and induced us to believe, that we fhould foon get round the (lioals. .i ' ' ■ ' On the 15th, feeing neither land nor breakers, we bore away W. N. W. but the (hou!sftiil continuing, we plied up for a clear fea to the S. E. by doing which, wc did but juil weather the point of the reef we had pa0ed the preceding evening. To render our fituation the: more dangenius, the wind began 10 tail us ; in the af-^ ternoon it fella calm, and we were left to the mercy of a great fwell, letting direftly for the reef, which was not more than a league from us. The pinnace and cuttcv were hoifted out to tow the fliip, but they were of little fervice. At feven o'clock, a light air at N. N. E. kept her head to the lea ; and on the i6th, at eleven o'clock. A. M. wc hoiffed in the boats, and made fail to the S. E. A tide or current had been in our favour all night, and was tii*; caufc of our getting fo unexpededly clear of the (hoals. - -. On the 2.0th, at noon, Cape Col net bore N. 78 deg. W. c'iflant fix leagues. From hence the land extended round by the S. to £. S. E. till it was loft '•■•- ■.•-■.■ ia m I 11 264 CAPTAIN COOK*S in the horizon, and the country appeared variegated with many hills and vallics. We flood in (hore till fun-fct, when we were about three leagues off. Two fmall iflots lay diftant from us five miles, and others lay between us and the lliore. The country was very mountainous, and had much the lame afpedl as about Balade. On Friday the 30th, at three o'clock P. M. it fell calm, the fwell, affifted by the current, fet us faft towards the breakers, which were yet in fight to the S. W. but at ten o'clock a breeze Springing up, we fleered E. S. E. not venturing farther fouth till day- light. On the iflofO(^ober, we had a very flrong wind at S. S. W. attended by a great Tea, fo that we had reafon to rejoice at having got clear of the flioals before this gale overtook us. We were now obliged to flretch to S. E. and at noon were out of fight of land. On the 2d, we had little wind, and a great fwell ; but at eleven, a frefh breeze fpringing up, we llood to the S. We were now in the lat. of 23 deg. 18 min. and in 169 deg. 49 min. E. longitude. On the 3d, we had a (Irong gale, with fqualls from the S. W. and the captain laid alide all thoughts of re- turning to the land we had left. Nor could fuch an at- tempt bethought a prudent one, when weconfider, that we had a va(l ocean yet to explore to the fouth ; that the (hip was already in want of neceffary flores ; that fummer was approaching very fail, and that any confi- derable accident might detain us from purfuing the great objed of this voyage another year. Thus necef- iity compelled us to leave a coaft, lor the tirfl time, which we had firft difcovered, but not fully explored. The captain named it New Caledonia, and in his opi- nion, it is next to New Zealand, tne largeft ifland in the South Pacific Ocean. The extent is from lat. 19 deg. 37 min. to 22 deg. 30 min. S. and from Ion. 163 deg. 37 min. to 167 deg. 14 min. E. It lies nearly N. W. half W. and S. E. half E. and is about 87 leagues ^ ,, " long, SECOND VOYAGE. 265 egated re till Two others long, but its breadth does not any where exceed ten leagues. On the 7th, a breeze Iprung up, and fixed at S. E. by S. The day following, we had a gentle gale, at- tended with fiine weather. On the 9th, we were in lat. 28 deg. 25 min. and in 170 deg. 26 min. E. Ion. In the evening Mr. Cooper (Iruck: a porpoile. It was fix feet long, and ditFers from the common porpoife in the head and jaw, which are long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. It was firfl foaked in water, then roalled, broiled, and fried. To us who had long fubfifted on falt-me.1t, it was more than palata- ble ; and we thought the haflet, and lean lleih, a deli- cious feaft. On the loth, we difcovered land. Captain Cook called it Norfolk ifland. We anchoR-J herj in tvventy- two fathoms water, on a bank of coral land, mixed with broken (heils. After dinner, a party of us em- barked in the boats, and landed in the ifland behiiid fome large rocks. It was uninhabited, and we vvcre undoubtedly the firft who ever let foot upon it. We found here many fea and land fowl, of the lamc kind as in New Zealand : likcwife cal)b;igc-palm, wood- forrel, fow-thiflle., and lamphire. The cabbage trees were not thicker than a man's Lg, and from ten to twenty feet high. The cabbage, each tree producing but one, is at the top inclof^i^d in the ftem. This ve- getable is not only wholefoaie, buc exceedingly palatable,, and fome excellent lilh we caught made a luxurious en- tertainment. On the nth, we failed from Norfolk Ifland, which we weathered, having lb"ctchcd up to S. S. W. We found the coall bounded with rocky ciijfs and banks of coral fand. On the foulh fule lie two iflcs, which f.rve as roofting and breedin^^ jolaces, lor white boc'^'e?, gulls, tern, &c. A bank of coral fand and Ihelis, iur- round the ifle, and extends, efpecially fouthward, fe- ven leagues off. Our intention at this time was to re- frelli ths crew, and repair the ihip in Queen Charlotte's ^ound. .12 LI ^Ort 266 CAPTAIN COOK S '; ■■ On the iStli, we made a trip to the north, and bore away for the Sound. We hauled round Point Jackfon, at nine A. M. and at eleven o'clock anchored before Ship Cove, the tide not permitting us to get in. Captain Cook went afliore, and looked for the bottle with the memorandum, which he left when laft here, but it was taken away by fome perlon or other. The feine was hauled twice, and only four fifh caught ; but feveral birds were Ihot, and the nefts of fome fhags were robbed of their young ones. • ^^ \ On the 19th, the (hip was warped into the cove, and moored. The fails were unbent, feveral of them having been much damaged in the late gale. The main and fore courfes were conde:rined, and the top-mafts fb'uck and unrigged. The forge was fet up, and tents ere(5led-on (liore for the reception of a guard, &c. Plenty of vegetables were gathered for the refrelhment of the crew, and boiled every morning with oatmeal and pota- ble broth for breakfaft. From fome circum fiances, as cutting down trees with faws and axes, and a place found where an obfervatory had been fet up in our abfence, we had no doubt but the Adventure had been in this cove fince we left it. On the 24th, we (aw canoes comi:(g down the found, which, when the (hip was feen by the people, retired behind a point on the welt fide. Afier break- faft, we went in fearch of them, and having fired at feveral birds, the report of our pieces gave notice of our being near, and they difcovered themfelves by hal- looing to us in Shag Cove ; but when we landed, and drew near to their habitations, they all fled, except two or three men, wl)o mimtained their ground, with their weapons in their iiands. The moment we landed they knew us, and their fears fubfided. Thole who liad returned from the woods, embraced us over and over again j but the men would not fufler fonie wo- men we faw at a diftance to come near us. We afked them on what account they were afraid of us, and alfo what was become of our old friends r To thefe qucdions we got no fatistadory anfvver ^ but they ...A . talked •V-* SECOND VOYAGE. 267 talked much about killing, which was varioufly under- ftood by us. On the 26th, foDie of the natives went to the tents, and told our people, that a fliip like ours had lately been loft, that tome of the men landed at Vanna Aroa, on the other fide the flraight ; that a diipute happened between them and the natives ; that fcveral of the latter were fliot, and that the natives got the better of them when they could fire no longer, and both killed and ate them. One of the relaters of this llrange ftory, faid it was twenty or thirty days ago ; but another faid it was, two moons hnce. . The following day they told the fame ftory to others, which made the captain, and indeed all of us, very uneafy about the Adventure, but when the captain en- quired himfelf, and endeavoured to come at the truth of thefe reports, the very people who raifed them, de- nied every lyllable of what they had faid, and feemed holly ignorant of the matter j fo that we w began to think the whole relation had reference only to their own people and boats. On the 28th, we again went on fliore, but found no appearance of the hogs and fows we had left behind. Having been a (hooting to the weft bay, in our return we got fome liih from the natives for a tew trifling prtfents. As we came back, fome of the party thought they heard a pig fqueak in the woods. We ftiot this day a good many wild fowl and fmall birds. On the 31ft, it was fomewhat remarkable that all the natives left us. On the I ft of November, we were vifited by a num- ber of ftrangers, who came from up the Sound. The principal articles of trade they brought with them was green ftone, fome of which were the largeft pieces wc had ever feen. On the 2d, a large black low was feeii by the botanifing party, which we dilcovered to be the fame that Captain Furneaux left behind him. Sup- poling it to be a boar, we carried over to Long Illand a fow, but feeing our miftake, we brought her back. This incident afforded us fome hopes, that this illand LI a in ■ (•:. 268 CAPTAIN COOK S h in time will be flocked with fuch ufeful animals. Lieat. Pickerlgill v as told tlic lame (lory by one of the natives, of a fhip Ijaving been Joft, but the man declared, though many were killed, it was not by them. On the 6th, our friends returned, and took up their abode near the tents. An old man, named Pedero, made Capt. Cuok a prelent of a ftaif of honour, fuch as the chiefs carry ; and in return, the captain drefled him up in a fuit of old cloatlis, which made him very happy. He had a fine j.erlbn, and his colour only dillinguifhed him from a European. Wc enquired of him and his coirpanions, if the y\dventure had been there during our ablence ; and they gave us to underftand that flie arrived a little time after our departure ; that (lie ftaid about twenty days, and had been gone ten moons ;• and that neither (he, nor any other (liip, had been ftranded on the coaft. This account made us eafy re- fpeding the Adventure. i This day we went with a number of hands to catch the (bw, and put her to the boar, but returned witi- ouc Iking her. Pedero dined with us, partook heai- tily of every thing let before him, and drank more wine than any one at table, witliout being in the leaffc intoxicated. On the 8th, v»e put a boar, a fow, and two pigs on Ihore, fo that we hope all our endeavours to iiock this country will not prove iruitlefs. We found a hen'? egg a few days ago, and therefore believe,, that Ibme oi the cocks and hens we left here are dill ia being. ■ •• • ''■•- .' On the 9th, we unmoored, and flilfted our flatiort firther out the cove, for the more ready getting to fea J but at prcfent, the caulkers had not finilhed the fides of the (hip ; and we could not fail till this work was completed. Our friends brought us a large fupply of filh, and in return, gave Pedero a large empty oil jar, with which he feemed highly delighted. We never faw atiy of our prelents after they received them, and cannot fay whether they gave them away, or what they did with them ; but we obferved, every time we vifited them, they were as much in want of hatchets, nails^ SECOND VOYAGE. 26^ nails, &c. as if we had not bellowed any upon them. Notwithftanding thefe people are cannibals, they are of a good difpolition, and have not a little humanity. The head of each tribe, or family, is refpcdled ; re- fpe6t may command obedience ; but v/e are inclined to think, not one among them has either a right or power to enforce it. In the afternoon, we went into one of the coves ; where, upon landing, we found two families employed in different manners : fome were making mats, others fleeping ; fome roaftin- fi(h and roots : and one girl was employed in heating (tones, which ihe took out of the fire a? foon as they were hot, and gave them to an old woman who (at in the hut. The old woman placed them one upon another, laid over them fome green ce- lery, and over all a coarfe mat : fhe then fquatted her- felf down on the top of the heap, anfi fat. very clofe. Probably this operatioi might be intended as a cure for fome diforder, to be effeded by the fleams arifing from the green celery, and we perceived the womaa feemed very fickly. CHAP. vm. l^ke departure of the ReJ'oluiion from New Zealand- AtCJULULlUIL UCfJU/ Ld J I V III, \^IU LJlllLUi kJVLlHll J^UUUICS ', Cape Horn — Her paffage through Strait Le Maire, and round Staten Ijland — Departs from Staten IJland — The ijland of Georgia difcovered, and a defcrip- , tive aeeount of tJie fame, THURSDAY, November lo, at day-break, we weighed, and failed from Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, having a fine breeze at N. N. W. All our fails being fet, we got round the Two Brothers, and flretched for Cape Campbell, at the S. W. entrance of the Strait. We pafled this at four o'clock P. M. Cape .x:r Palliler 270 CAPTAIN COOK S Pallifiir bore N. half W. diftant five leagues, and then fleered S. S. E. half K. On the 13th, we hauled up towards a fog bank, which we took tor land ; after which we fleered S. E. by S. and faw a leal. On the 14th, we law another feal, in lat. 45 deg. 54 min. and 170 deg. 29 inin. E. longitude. On the 15th, having palfed the great me- ridian of 180 deg. E. which divides the globe into two equal parts, we began to reckon our longitude W. of Greenwich. On the 27th, we fleered E. having a fteady frefh gale ; and at noon were in lat. ^^ deg. 6 min. S. and in 138 deg. 56 min. W. longitude. In this parallel, not a hope remained of finding any more land in the fouthern Pacific Ocean. We refolved therefore to fleer for the W. entrance of the Straits of Magellan, with a view of coafting the S. fide of Terra del de Fuego, round Cape Horn to the Strait Le Maire. In the afternoon, we had fqually weather, which carried away our top- gallant maft. On the I ft of December, it fell a calm, but about feven, we got a wind at S. E. wliich flood to N. E. On the 5th, a fine gale at S. enabled us to fleer E. ' with very little deviation to the N. and the wind now altering to the S. W. and blowing a Ready gale, we con- ' tinued to fleer E. inclining a little to S. On the 6th, we had fome fnow lliowers ; and on the 9th, a fine pleafant gale, with (bowers of rain. On the 18th, we fleered S. E. by E. along thecoafl. Near a league irom the main is a high ragged ifle, which we called Landfall. We continued to range the coafl, and at eleven o'clock, pafled a projeding point having a round furface, and of confiderable height, to which we gave the name of Cape Gloucefler. It has the appearance of an ifland, and is fituated S. S. E. , half E. feventeen leagues from the ille of Landfall. Be- tween thele the coafl forms two bays, flrewed with rocky iilots, rocks, and breakers. The coafl appeared un- connected, as if formed of a number of iflands. The land is very mouritainous, rocky, and barre;i, but in '! . ' . . fame I SECOND VOYAGE, 271 I fome places, covered with tufts ot wood and patches of fnow. On the 2oth, we pcrce'tvtd the fliip to drive off the fhore out tr? k*a ; for by the melting of the fnow, the inlnnd witers will occafjo'n a ftream to run out of moft of the inlets. Ii tSe evening, a breeze fpringing up at E. by S. we U.jod in for the Und, being defirous of entering one of the many ports, in order to take a view of the countrw and to rccriait our ftock of wood and water. In Handing m for an opening, apparently on ihc caft fide, we founded m 40 and 60 fathoms. Our Jaft foundings were nearly between the two points that form the entrance to the inljt. We flood for that to the eafl, as being clear of iflots ; but, upon found- ing, found no bottom with a line of 120 iathoms. In this difagreeable fituation, a breeze fpringing up, our captain relblved to fland up the inlet j but niglit approaching, our fafety depended on cafling anchor, rheretorc continued founding, but always, to our mor- tification, in an unfathomable depth : fbon after we anchored in thirty fathoms, in a bottom of fand and broken flieils. On the 22d, two parties were font out with boats to look for a more fecure ftation. They found a cove above the point under which the fliip lay, in which was ex- ceeding good anchorage. At the head of it was a liony beach, a valley covered with wood, and a ftream of frefli water, conveniencies more favourable than we could ex- pert would be found in fuch a place. Here alfo they ihot three geefe out of four. Orders were difpatched to remove the lliip into this place. We returned on board, and found every thing in readinefs to weigh, which wa'> done. We foon after got round, and an- chored in twenty fathoms water. On the 2^d^ Lieutenant Pickcrfgill went out to ex- amine the eait tide of the found, while the captain pro- ce.^ded in the pinnace to the weff fide, with a view of go.ng round the ifland under which the fliip lay, which he called Shag Ifland. ' This harbour lies in W. by .W. a mile and a half. It hath wood and frefl) water, and ., , , . from IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1^ HA 128 m 1 2.5 12.2 10 M 1.25 1 1.4 11.6 ^ . 6" - ► ■'* '"'^v^** ^J^ Hiotograpliic Sdences Corporation ^>^ ?ii WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 873-4S03 n *' 1. 272 CAPTAIN COOK S from twelve to twenty-four fathoms deep. At the fouth end of Shag iJland, the (hags l^reed in vaft num- bers in the chlTs of the rocks. We (hot Ibme of the old ones, but could not come at the young ones, which arc by much the bed eating. We likewifc brought down three wild gcefe, a valuable acquifition at this time. On the 24th, two fporting parties went over one of the N. E. iilands above mentioned, which was named Goofe Ifland -, and the other, accompanied by Captain Cook, went by the S. W. fide. When under the ifland we had plenty of (port, having (hot as many geefe as i'erved for a Chriftmas-mcal for our men, which proved much more agreeable to them than fait beef and pork. Ill the fouth of the ifland were abundance of geefe, it being their moulting fcafon, when moft of them come on (hore, and are not difpofed to fly. Our party got fixty-two, and Mr. Pickerfgill, with his party, fourteen. . We were informed by our people on board, that a number of natives, in nine canoes, hacj been along-iide, and fome of them in the (hip : they feemcd well ac- quainted with Europeans, and had fevcral of their knives among them. ., — .... On the 23th, being Chrlftmas-day, we had anothe'r vifit from them. They are a diminutive, ugly, half- ftarved, beardlefs race ; alinoll naked, being only flightly covered with a feahfltin or two joined together, foas to niake a cloak, which reached to their knees ; but the greated part of them had but one (kin, which fcarccly covered their (boulders, and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women are cloathed no better than the men, except that they cove"- their nakednefs with a (eal-fkin flap. They are inured from their infancy to cold and hardfliips, for we law fome young children at the breall, entirely nak'.',d. They remained all the time in their canoes, having their bow:^ and arrows with them, and harpoons, made of bone, with which they ilrike and kill (illi. > . " , At the vaft num- )mc of the nes, which ic brought on at this over one of was named by Captain r the ifland ny geefe as lich proved ; beef and undancc of en mod of ) fly. Our h his party, ard, that a along-fide, cd well ac- their knives lad another ugly, hal(- )nly flight ly ler, lb as to zs ; but the ich feu reel y • parts were better than Inefs with a infancy to children at all the time i with them, they ilrikc 'they * ^f 4 ^^■>:^ •>> '^vif" Ak^i ^ \ ^:*> SECOND VOYAGE. '273 They all cli^p.irrecl before dm 'I'jr, nor did we b'^r.'ve liny one invited them to partake jf our Chriflm.^s cht-er, wliich confilied of^'eft-, roalb and boiicl, goofe-pie, &cc. a treat little known to us ; and which was heightened by Mavlcira wine, the only article of our provifions that was mended by keeping. We called this place Chrill- niis Sound, in honour of the day, and thejoyful feftival we had celebrated here. On the 27th, everv thing on fliore was ordered on board. The weather being line and pleafant, a party of us went round by the fouth fide of Goofe Ifland, and picked up thirty -one of thefe birds. When we re- turned on hoard, we found all the work done, and the launch in, fo that we now only waited for a fair wind to put to Tea. On the 28th, we failed from this found with a light breeze at N. W. At noon, Point Nativity,- being the ea(l part of the Sound, bore N. half W. diflant one league and a half. We fleered S. E. by E. and E. S. E. when we hauled to the S. for the fake of a view of St. Idenfonfo. At half pad five o'clock, we had a good fight of the ifles. They are fituated about fix leagues from the main, in lat. ^^ deg. 53 min. S. and in 69 deg»l,- 41 min. W. longitude. On the 30th, we were driven by the current to Sta- ten Land ; but a breeze fpringing up at N. N. W. we flood over for Succefs Bay. We hoilted our colours, and firing two guns, we perceived a fmoke rife out of the v/oods, made by the natives above the fouth point of the bay. A party was fent into Succefs Bay, in order to difcover if any traces of the Adventure were to be feen there j but they returned without having found any. When Mr. Pickerfgill landed, the natives received him and his alTociates with great courtefy. They were cloathed in feal-fkins, had bracelets on their arms, and appeared to be the fame kind of people vwe had feen in Chrillmas Sound. The bracelets were made of filver wire, wrought fomewhat like the hilt of afword, and, no doubt, the workmanlhip of an European. Accord- 12, M m ing ^7P CAPTAfN CUOK 3 I ing to Mr. I^ickcrfoiirs acc^-unt, tl'c bay was full or whales and icals, and vvc liad obfcrvc'd the fame in the flrait, particularly on the Tcna del Fuegu jidc, wlicrc the whales are exceeding; nnmcn us. '')n the 3in:, we bore up for tlic c:,!} end of Stalen Land. Tl.e weather being liazy, we could only now and then got fight of the coafl ; but as we advanced to the eaft, leveral iHands were i'een of unequal extent. As we continued our courfc, we fav on one of the iflands a great number of feals and birds, a firong temptation to our people, who were in want of frefh provifions ; and in hauling round it, we had a flrong race of a current, iike unbroken water. At length, after liHiing lor the bed ground, call anchor in twenty-one fathoms water, about a mile from the ifland. In the afternoon, a large party of us landed, fome to kill feals, and others birds or fifli. The ifland was fo flocked with the former, which made fuch a continual bleating, that we n:iight have thought ourfelves in E(- fex, or any other country where cows and calves are in abundance. Upon examination, we found thefe animals diflt.Tcnt ircm feals, though they refembled them in fliiipe and motion. The male having a great likenefs to a lion, we called them on that account lions. We alfo found of the fame kind as the New Zealand feals, and thelewe named fea bears. We Ihot Ibme of the large ones, not thinking it fafe to go near them ; though in general, they were fo tame, that we knocked fome down with cmr flicks. Here were a few geele and ducks, and abundance of penguins and fliags ; the latter of which had young ones, almofl Hedged, con- fequently jufi: to our talte. In the evening, our party returned, iu/Hciv!ntly laden with provilions of various forts. On the ifl of January, 1775, Mr. Gilbert was fen t out to Staten Land, in fearch of a good harbour, nothing more being wanting, in the opinion of the captain, to make this place a good port for {hips to touch at for refrelliments. Another party went to bring on board the SRCOND VOYAGE. 275 ms water. "the bcafls wc ba^l killal the preceding day. The old hons an 1 bears wttrc go.)d for nothin;; but their blubber, ot which we made oil ; but the llclh of the young ones was liked very well : even the fl.lh of tlic old lionctrv".s was not much aniils ; but that of the old males was abominable. This day Captain Cocik took an obfervation of the fun's meridian ahitudo (his heif^ht at noon) at the N. E. tnd of this illand, which da^rmined its latitude a^' 44 deg. 40 min. 5 iec. S. Havin;^ lliot a lew gectc, fome other birds, and fupphed ourielves plentifully with young Ihags, we returned on board in the evening. About ten, the party returned from Staten Land, where they found a good port, in the uirecfiion of N. a little eaderly, from the N. E. end of the cailern ifland, and diftant three leagues to the wcftward of Cape St. John. The marks whereby it may be known, arc Ibmc Imall iflands lying in the entrance. The ch.annel, which is on the cad fide of thefe iflunds, is half a mile broad. The courfe is in S. W. by S. turning gradually to W. by S. and VV The harbour is almoll two miles long, and near one broad. The bottom is a mixture of mud and fand, and hath in it from ten to lifty fathoms water. Here are feveral llreams ot frefli water, with good wood for fuel. On this Ifland are an innumerable number of fea- gulls, the air was quite darkened witii them, upon be- ing difturbed by our people : and when they role up, we were almofl futibcated witii their dung, wh.ich they icemed to emit by way of defence ; and it Itunk worfe than what is vulgarly called devil's dung. On the 3d, we weighed, and flood for Cape St. John, which in the evening bore N. by E. diflant four miles. This point being the caller n point of Staten Land, is a rock of confiderable height, filuated in lat. j^ deg. 46 min. S. and m 64 deg. 7 min. AV.lon. hav- ing a rocky illot lying ciofe under the north [)oint of it. To the wcflward of the cape is an inlet, which leemeci . to communicate with the lea to the fouth ; and between this and the cape is a bay. Having doubled the cape, A. ^ . M 111 2 we ■in V J I I I T^ i} 'J 7 6 CAPTAIN COOK S wc liauleel up along the loutli coad. At noon Cape St, J')hn bore N. 20 cleg. K. diltant about three Jca<;ucs : Cape St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point ot" S>atcn Land, S. 87, deg. W. two high detached rocks N. So deg. W. By obfervation our lat. was found to bi 54 deg. 56 min. S. We now judged this land to i»ave been lulljf lently cxjjlorcd ; but before v\e leave it, think it neccflliry to make a few obfervations on this and its neighbouring illands. I'he S. W. coall of Terra del Fuego, with rer|)e(5l to inlets and iflands, may be compared to the coaft of Norway ; for wc btlieve within the extent of three leagues there is an inlet or harb- ur, which will receive arr! Ilielicr the i\vi\ rate Ihips ; but (ih thefe are better knovvn, every navigator niu;l f-ilh for anchorage : add •to tiiis, liiere are ftver;d rocI-vS on the coad ; though as none lie far from land, the approach of them may be •kno*\ 'j by foutiding, iftliey cannot be leen ; fo that •upon the whole, we cannot thmk this the dangerous coaft it hi:f= bcetj "eprelented by otlier voyagers. Stu. -n La'id is thirtv miics in Icnorh, and near twelve broad, li:- .nrtace conlifts of craggy hilis, towering up to a vafl; hciglit, cfpeciallly near the weft end, and the coaft is rocky. The grcatcft part of the hills, their fummits excepted, is covered with trees, (lirubs, and herbage. We cannot lay any thing, that navigators may depend o/i, concerning tlie tides and currents on thcle coafts ; but we obferved that in Strait Le Maire, the ioufheriy tide, or current, begins to adl at the new and full moon about four o*clock. It may alfo be of ul'e to commanders to remark, that if bound round Cape Horn to the W. and not in want of any thing to oblige them to put into port, we would advifc them not to cooie near land ; as by keeping out to lea, they would avoid the currents, which, we arc con- vinced, lofe their force twelve leagues from land ; and at a greater diftance tlicy would find none to impede their couric. All the animals of this ifland live in pcrfed harmony, and feem careful not todifturbeach other's tranquillity. The S E C N D V ^' A G K . 277 The lea Hon? pofll-fs mod of the coad ; the bears take up their quaiters within tlic illc ; tiie (hags lodge in the Ini'hclL clifls J the pcn^;uins \\ci\-c their Icparate abode where there is the moll caly CiMninunication to and from the Tea; and the other b.irds have their places oF rclircmePt ; yet we liave (;blcrve(l ihcni all, witlunutual rcconuicinent, mix together, like dtmieltic cattle and poultr\ ill a iarm yard : nay, we have Icen the eagles and valiurc-'- liltino; tofi.nlicr an-ong the (bags, on tl.eir hilloeks, without the latter, either young or old, being diiiuilxd r.l their prercnce. We lel't Stalen lllind on the 3d, and this day being the 4th, we law t'.ie land again j and at fix o'clock in the afternoon, a heavy Iquall came ib fuddenly upon us, that it carried away a toi^-gallant-maft, a fludding-lail boom, and a fore iludding-lail. This ended in a heavy (bower of rain ; and now fleered S. W. in ortler to dif- cover the Gulpli of Seballian, if luch a coaCI: exifted, in which the gulph has been reprel'ented, for of this wo en- tertained a doubt : hovxcver, this appeared to be the bell courfe to clear it up, and to explore the fbuthern part of this ocean. On the 6th, we were in lat. 38 deg. 9 min. S. and c^^ dcg. 14 min. W. the lltuation nearly afligncd for the S. W. point of tlie Gulph of St. Sebaftian ; but lecing no fi^ns of land, were (fill doubtful of its exiilence ; and being al!o tearful, that by keeping to the S. miglit mifs the land laid to be dilcovered by La Roche in 1675, and by the (hip Lion, in 1756 ; for thele rcalbns, vve hauled to thie N. in order to get in to the parallel laid down by Dulrymple, as loon as pc^llible. On the 71I1, we were near midnight in the lat. ol 56 deg. 4 min. S. ion. 53 cleg. '36 min. W. On the 13111, we llood to the S. till noon, when find- ing ourlelves in lat. ^^ deg. 7 min. we ftictched to the N. We law leveral [jengums, and a fnow peterel, which wejudged to denote the vicinity of ice. We found alio the air much colder than we had felt it fince we left New iiealand. On the i4*'h, we dilcovered land, in a manner wholly covered with Ihovv. We founded ui 175 fathoms, :.- V . muddv ,.78 CAPTAIN COOK S muddy bottom. On the i^lh, the wind blew in fquahs, attended with InuvV and iL^i, antl we h^.d a great lea to cncounttr. At tour, we iloud to tlie S W, under two couii-Si but at midnight the llorm abated, lo tliat wc couid carry ourtop-laiis dcubic reeled. On tlie lOtli, at tuuro'cKKk A. M. we flood to the K. with a moderate breeze, and at cig,ht law the land extending from 1/.. by iN. t*. N. K. by N. It proved to be an liland, and we called it Willis's Iflaiul, tVom the name ot the perfon who lirll diicovered it from the nialt-head. We bore to it with a view orexj)loring the northern roall ; and as wc advanced, perceived another ifle to the north, between that aiul the main, Oblerv- ing a clear pallagc between both, we fteercd for tlie iamc, and in tlie midway found it to be two miles broad. Willis's Ifle is in the lat. of 54 deg. S. and in ^S dcg. 23 min. W. longitude. On the 17th, having got through the paflagc, wc obferved the N. coaft trended E. by N. tor about three leagues. We ranged the coaft till near flight, at one league diflance, when, on founding, we found liity (c- thoms, and a muddy bottom. On the 17th, we made for the land. We now fleered along fliorc till feven, when feelr.g the appearance of an inlet, we liauled in for it. The captain, accompanied by Mr. Forfler and others, went off in a boat, to reconnoitre the bay be- fore wc ventured in with the iliip. They landed in three d liferent [)laces, difplaycd our colours, and took policfllon of the country in his Majcfly's name. The liead of the bay was terminated by ice cliils, of confi- dcrable height ; pieces of which were continually breaking ot\, and made a noire like a cannon. Nor were the interior parts of the country iefs horrible. The favagc rocks raifetl th.cir lofty fummits till lofl in tlie clouds, and vallies were covered with lecmingly pcrjctual fhow. Not a lice, nor a (brub of any lize were to be Icen. I'hc only ligns of vegetation were a Arong btaded grafs, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like mofs fecn on the rocks. Sea bears, or teals, were numerous ; the (liores fvvarnied with young 3UC0ND VOVACE. 279 liiiuVr two Here vvrrc alfo tlic largeft penguins \vc Sjme we brought aboard weighed thirty Toun^ cub?. had yet ieeii. pounds. When th ' party returned aboard, thcybroup;ht witi> thcni a quantity oi' llals and |)cn;uiins ; not that wc wanted })r(n'irions, l>ut any kind ot tr-.lh nicat was ac- ceptable to the crew ; and even Captain Cook acknow- lcdg;cd, tliat he was now, tor the tiill time, heartily tired of fait diet ot" every kind ; and that thougli tlie flcfh of penguins could tcarcely be compared to bul- locks liver, vet its bcin*^ frelli was fulrlcient to make it j)alatable. Tlie captain named the bay he t'urveyed, Poiieflfion Bay ; tliough, acc-.Tding to Ids account ol it, we think it to be no appendage to his majelly's new pofll'flioniS. On the iSth, we marie fail to the eaft, along the coafl: ; the dircdion ot which from Cape Bailer, is y ; deg. 30 min. K. for the fpace of twelve leagues, to a pro- jeding point, which was named Cape Saunders. Beyond this is a pretty large bay, which obtained the name of Cumberland Bay. At the bottom of this, as aifo in fome fmallcr one?, were vafl trads of frozen ice orfnow, not yet broken loc-le. But now ju(t pail Cumberland Bav, we hauled off the coaft, irom whence we were diftant four miles. On the 20th, we made fail to the S. \V. round Cooper's Ifland, which is one rock, confiderably high, about five miles in circuit, and one difbant froji the main. Here the main coaft takes a S. W. tlircdion for five leagues, to a point which we called Cape Dilappointment, of! which are three Imall ifles. The rnoft lout hern one is a league from the rape, green, low, and flat. We now quitted this coaft, and direded our courle to the S. S. E. for the land we had ihen the preceding day. A ftrong gale overtook us, and we tliought ourfelves very for- tunate in having got clear of the land before this came on. On 'i8(/ CAPTAIN COOK S ^^' On the 2 1 fl, the llorm was fuccccclal b}' a Ihirk for/ atfciuK'd wit!i riin ; hiit havin*;^ lnh a ibuthcrJy brt^-z'^ wc ftocKJ to theeaH: ti!i three in the afternoon ; and then' fleered north in learch of tlie hind. 0»i the 22], we had thick fogi^y weatlicr ; but in the cw-niiip it was lb eL-ar tiuit we could lee twj leagues round u*;, Ami thinking wo mij^ht be to theead o.' the land, wc (leered weft. On tiie 2v\j a thick forr at fix o'clock, once more compelled us to iiaul the wind to the Ibutij i t! irec but at eleven, wc were tavdured with a view ( or four rocky ifiots, extending from S. K. to 1'^. N. K, about one league diftant ; and this, being tlie extent of our horizon, might be tiie reafi n we did not- lee the Su^/ar-loaf. Wc were well aftijred, this was the land we had ('cei\ before, and wliich we had now circu:i;navi2,ated ; conlilling of only a i'cw detached rocks, the receptacles for birds. They are lituated in latitude 55 deg. S. This interval of clear weather was I'ucceeded by as thick a fog as ever, on whicii we ilood to the N. Thus we were continually involved in thick mifts, and the iliags, with frequent found- ings, were our beft pilots ; but on the 23d, we ftood a few miles to the north, when we got clear of the rocks, out of foundings, and faw not any fliags. 'I ti . ; -'i-'i ' CHAP / «€') SECOND VOYAGl. 281 CHAP. IX. The Rcfolullon continues her coinfc — AVriA';/// (niU Saunders Ijlcs dijcovcrcd — Conjccfmrs, and fomtf rcajhns that there may be laud about the foul h pole — The llefotulion alters her eourj'e to the cail — Proeecd- iui^s fill her arrival at the Cape of (rood I/opc — Sails for the IJlc of Faj/al, and returns to F.nt^laJid — Captai/i FurneaiLvs narrative^ from the time the Adventure zvas feparated from the Rejolulion^ to her arrival in England, including the report of Lieutenant Burnei/^ eoncernnr;' the untimely death of the boat's crezv, uho lee'v murdered b\j fome of the natives of '2ueen Charlotte's Sound. ON the 25th, we fleered E. S. E. We had a frefli gale at N. N. E. but the weather (liil continued foggy, till towards the evening, at which time it cleared up. On the 26th, we held on our ccurle with a line gale from the N. N. W. but at day-light, leeing no land to thceaft, and being in latitude 56 deg. 33 min. S. and in 31 deg. 10. min. wed longitude, we iteered to the Ibiith. On the 27th, we had fo thick a fog, that we could not fee a fliip's length. We expedcd loon to fall in with the ice, and on this account, it being no longer fafe to lail before the wind, we hauled to the eaft with a gentle gale. When the'fog cleared away, we relumed our courfc to the fouth ; but it returned again, which obliged us to haul upon a wind ; and unlcls we foon dilcovered fome certain ligns of falling in with land, the captain determined to make this the limit of his voyage to the fouth. Indeed it would not have been prudent to have fquandered away time in feeking farther to the fouth, when there was as great a probability of finding a large track of land near Cape Circumcifion. 12 N n Befides, .^. ;: 282 CAPTAIN COOK S Befides, it was an irkfome tafk to traverfe in high fou- thern latitudes, where nothing was to be difcovered but ice. At this time a long hollow fwell from the weft, in- dicated that no land was to be cxpeded in luch a direc- tion ; and upon the whole, we may venture to affert, that the extenfive coaft laid down by Mr. Dalrymple, and his Gulph of St. Sebaftian, do not exift. On the 28th, at eight o'clocic A. iM. we llood to theeaft, with a gentle breeze at north. The weatlier cleared away, and we perceived the fca ftrewed with large and fmall bodies of ice. Some whales, penguins, fnow peterels, and other birds were feen. We had now fun-fliine, but the air was cold. At noon, by obfervation, we were in 60 deg. 4 min. S. and in 29 deg. 23 min. W. longi- tude. At half pad two o'clock, having continued our courie to the eaft, we fuddenly fell in with a vaft num- ber of large ice-illands, and a fea ftrewed with loofe ice, and the weather becoming hazy, made it dan- gerous to (tand in among them. We therefore tacked, and ftood back to the weft, with the wind at nortii. We were now furrounded with ice-iflands, all nearly of an equal height, with a flat furface, but of various extent. On Sunday the 19th, having little wind, we were obliged to traverfe in fuch courfes as were moft likely to carry us clear of them, fo that we hardly made any pro- grefs, one way or other, throughout the whole day. The weather was fair, but remarkably gloomy, and we were vifitcd by penguins and whales in abundance. On the 30th, we tacked and ftood to the N. E. and almoft throughout the day it was foggy, with either fleet or fnow. At noon we were in latitude 59 deg. 30 min. S. and in 29 deg. 24 min. W. At two o'clock, pafl' d one of the largeft ice-iflands we had feen during our voyage ; and fome.time after two Imaller ones. On the 31ft, we discovered land a-head, diftant about one league. This land confifted of three rocky iflots of confiderablc height. The outmoft terminated in a lofty peak, like a fugar- loaf, to which we gave the naiiie of Freegland Peak, after SECOND VOTAGE. 283 high fou- lifcovered weft, in- h a di rec- to affert, ahyinplc, On the ^aft, with r^d away, and fmall peterels, line, but we were V. Jongi- tiTjcd our aft num- ith loofe it dan- : tacked, It north. U nearly various we were ike!y to my pro- 3le day. and wc :e. On \ ahnoft fleet or min. S. iV d one royage ; lift, wc . This height, fugar- ] Peak, after after the man who firft difcovered it. The latitude is 39 deg. S. and 27 deg. W. longitude. To the eaft of this peak, was feen an elevated coaft, whole Inow-capp'd lummits were above the clouds. We named it Cape Briftol, in honour of the noble family of Hervey. Alfo in latitude 59 deg. 13 min. 30 fee. S. and in 27 deg. 45 min. W. another elevated coaft appeared in light, diftant from four to eight leagues. This land we called Southern Thule, becaufe the moft fouthern that has yet been dif- covered. Its furface rifcs high, and is every where co- vered with fnow. There were thofe of our company, who thought they faw land in the fpace between Thule and Cape Briftol. We judged it more than probable that thefe two lands are connected, and the fpace is a deep bay, which, though thefe are mere fuppofitions, was called Forfter's Bay. Being not able to weather Southern Thule, we tacked and ftood to the north, at one o'clock, and at four Freezland Peak was diftant four leagues. Soon after the wind fell, and we were left to the mercy of a great wefterly fwell, which fet right upon the fliore j but at eight o'clock, the weather clearing up, we faw Cape Briftol, which bore E. S. E. ending in a point to the north, beyond which we could fee no land. Thus we were relieved from the fear of being caft away by the fwell, and caft on the moft hor- rible coaft in the world. We continued our courle to the north all night, with a light breeze at weft. On Wedneklay the i ft of February, at four o'clock in the morning, we had a view of a new coaft. At fix it bore north 60 deg. E. and being a high promontory, we named it Cape Montague. It is fituated in latitude 58 deg. 37 min. S. and in 26 deg. 44 min. W. longitude, '■•ight leagues to the north of Cape Briftol. We faw land in feveral places between them, whence we concluded the whole might be connected. We wifli it had been in our power to have determined this with greater certainty, but prudence would not permit the attempt, nor to venture near a coaft the dangers of which liave been already fufficiently pointed out. One ice-ifland, among i^any others on this coaft, particularly attraded our N n 2 '. notict. >■»•..■ «<. CAPTAIN COOKS 284 notice. It was level in furface, of great extent both in height and circuit, and its fides were perpendicular, on which the waves of the Tea had not made the ieaft im- prcffion. We thought it might have come out from lome bay on the coafl. At noon, by obiervation, we found our latitude to be 58 deg. 25 min. In the after- noon, at two o'clock, when Handing to the north we faw land, which bore north 25 deg. E. It extended from north 40 deg. to 52 deg. E. and it was imagined more land lay beyond it to the eafb. On the 20, at fix o'clock A. M. having fteered to north during the night, land was difcovered, bearing north 12 deg. E. ditl:ant ten leagues. We faw two hum- mocks jufl above the horizon, of which we foon loft fight. We now flood, having a frefh breeze at N. N. E. for the northermoft: land we had feen the preceding day, which, at this time, bore E. S. E. By ten o'clock we fetched in with it, but not having it in our power to weather the fame, we tacked at three miles from the coaft. This extended from E. by S. to S. E. and ap- peared to be an illand of about ten leagues circuit. The lurface was high, and its funnnit loft in the clouds. Like all the neighbouring lands, it was covered with a fheet of fnow and ice, except on a point on the north fide, and on two hills !een ovi^r it, which probably \Vere two iflands. Thefe were not onlv clear of fnow, but Teemed covered with ^reen turf. We faw alfo large ice-illands to the fouth, and others to the N. E. At noon we tacked for the land again, in order if poffible to determine whether it was an ifland ; but a thick fog foon prevented the difcovery, by making it unfafe to ftand for the Hiore ; fo that having returned, we tacked and ftood to N. W. to make the land we had feen in the morning. We left the other under the fuppofition of its being an iiland, and named it Saunders Ifle, alter Capt. Cook's honourable friend Sir Charles Saunders. It lies in latitude 57 deg. 49 min. S and in 26 deg. 44 min. W. longitude, diltant thirteen le£^ues from Cape Mon- tague. The wind having fliifted at fix o'clock, we ftood to the north ; and at eight we faw Sjiunders Illand, ex- tending SECOND VOYAGE. 285 large kJtv -• tending from S. E. by S. to E. S. E. We were dill in doubt if it were an ifland, and could not at this time clear it up, as wc found it necclfary to take a view of the land to the north, before we proceeded any further to the eaft. With this intent we Rood to the north, and on the 3d, at two o'clock A. M. we came in light of the land we were fearching after, which proved to be two iiles. On account of the day on which they were difcovered, we called them Candlemas lllcs. They lie in latitude 57 deg. 1 1 min. S. and in 27 deg. 6 min. W, longitude. B.:tween thefe we obferved a hiiall rock : there may perhaps be others ; for the wcatlier being hazy occafioned us t':^ loie fight of the iflands, and we did not fee them again till noon, at which time they were tlirec or four leagues off. We now ftood to the N. E. and at midnight came fuddenly into water uncommonly white, at which appearance the otHcer on watch was' lb much alarmed, that he immediately ordered the fliip to put about, and we accordingly tacked inflantly. Tliere were various opinions aboard concerning this matier ; probably it might be a (Ivoal of filh ; but fome faid it was a Ihoal of ice j and otliers thought it was Qialiovy water. On Sunday the 4th, at noon, by oblervation, we found" ourfelves in latitude 56 deg. 44 min. S. and in longitude 25 deg. ^^ u in. W. We now, having a breeze at bread, flood to the louth, intending to regaia the coalt we had loft ; but the wind at eight o'clock in the evening, obliged us to tiand to the eaft, in which run we liiw many ice-iflands and fome loofe ice. As the formation of ice-iflands has not been fully inveftigated, we will here offer a few hints and oblervations refpecf ing them. We do not think, as fome others do, that they arc formed by the water at tlie mouths of great cataracls or large rivers, which, when accumulated, break off, owing to their ponderous weight ; becauf'e we never found any of the ice which wc took up, in the lead in- corporated, or conned:ed with the earth, which mufl necclFarily adliere to it, were thi^ conjedure true. Fur- thermore, 286 CAPTAIN cook's ''■%. thermore, we are not certain whether there are any rivers in thefe countries, u^ we faw neither rivers noi ftreams of frelli water there. The ice-illands, at lead in thofe parts, mud be formed from fnow and fleet con- folidated, which gathers by degrees, and are drifted from the mountains. In winter, the feas or ice-cliffs mufl fill up the bays, if they are ever fo large. The continual fall of Inovv occafions the accumulation of thefe cliffs, till they can fupport their weight no longer, and large pieces break off from theie ice-iflands. \Ve are inclined to believe, that thele ice-clifFs, where they are f]"^;ltercd from the violence of the winds, extend a great way into the fea. On the 5th, having feen no penguins, we thought that we were leaving land behind us, and that we had pafTed its northern extremity. On the 6th, we held on our courfe till the 7th at noon, when we found our lati- tude to be 58 deg. 15 min. S. and Ion. 21 deg. 34min. W. and not leeingaiiy lignsofland, we concluded, that what had been denominated Sandwich Land, was either a group of iflands, or a point of the continent : for in Captain Cook's opinion, the ice that is fpread over this vaft fbuthern ocean, mufl originate in a track of land, which he firmly believes lies near the pole, and extends fai theft to the north, oppofite to the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans ; for ice being found in thefe farther to the north, than any where elle, induced the captain to conclude, thai land of confiderable extent muflexifl near the fouth. Upon a contrary fuppofitioii it will follow, that we ought to Ice ice every where under the fame j)arallel ; but few (hips have met with ice going round Cape Horn ; and for our part, we faw but little below the fixtieth degree of latitude in the Southern Pacific Ocean ; on the other hand in this fea, between the meridian of 40 deg. W. and fifty or fixty degrees eaft, we f^'^und ice as lar north as 51 deg. Others liave feen it in a much lower latitude. Let us now fuppofe there is a Southern Continent withm the polar circle. The qucftion which readily occurs, will be, What end can be anfwercd in difcovering or exploring fuch ■i.' SECOND VOYAGE. 287 iuch acoaft ? Or what ufe can the fame be either to na- vio"ation, gc^ogiaphy, or niiy other Icicnce ? and what benefits can refpilt theietroni to a cominercial ftate ? Condder tor a moment, what thick fogs, Ihow, ftornis, intenfc cold, and every thing d mgerous to navigation, mud be encountered with by every hardy adventurer ; behold tlie horrid al{)eil: ofacnuntiy impenetrable by the animating heat of the fun's rays ; a country doomed to be immerled incverlafting Ino.v. Seo the'fliinds and floats on th^' coaft, and the continual Falls oi the ice- cliffs in the ports : tliefe dit^iculties, wl^i'.h might be he'^^hteui^d by others lets dangirc us, arc fufFici jnt to d'^.ter every on f from the ra(h attempts of proceeding farther to the fouth, than our expert and brave com- mander has done, in fearch of an unknown country, which when difcovered would anfwer no valuable pur- pofe whatever. By this time we had traverfed the Southern Ocean, in fuch a manner, as to have no doubt in determining that there is no continent, unlefs near the pole, and ojt of the reach of navigation. Wj lave made many new difcoveries, and afcertained the exact fituation of feveral old ones. Thus was the end of our voyage fully an- fwered, a fouthern hemifphere fufiicienily explored, and the necefTity of a fearch atter a fouthern continent put an end to. We (liould have proceeded to farther difco- veries, but our captain thought it cruel to detain the people vvlio failed with him any longer without the necef- iary refrefhments, cfpecially, as their behaviour merited every indulgence ; for neither officers nor men ever once repined at any hardlhip, nor exprefled any uncafi- nefs, or additional fear of danger, on account of our reparation from the Adventure. It was now high time to think of returning liome ; and could we have con- tinued longer, we fhould have been in great danger of the fcurvy breaking out among us, and we do not know any good purpofe farther dilcoveries v^ould have an- fwcred : wc tlierefore fleered for the Cape of Good Hope, intending to look for Bouvet's difcovery. Cape Circumcifion^ and the ifles of Denia and Marfeveen. < ' . On 288 CAPTAIN COOK S On Tuefday the yth, we refumed our courfc to the eaft, and this day only three ice iflands were fcen. At eight oVlock in the evening we hauled the wind to the S. E. for the night. On the 8th, at day-light, we con- tinued our couri'e to the eaft. In the afternoon, palFcd three ice iilands. On the 9th, we had a calm moft part of the day ; the weather fair, except at times a fnow lliower. We faw feveral ice iilands, but not the Icaft intimation that could induce us to think that any land was near us. We ftood now to the north eaft with a breeze which fprung up at S. E. On the loth, we had jhowers of fleet and fnow ; the weather was piercino^ cold, infomuch that the water on the deck was frozen. The ice iflands were continually in fight. On tl.s nth, we continued to fteer eaft. In the morning we had heavy Ihowers of fnow ; but as the day advanced, we had clear and ferene weather. At noon, JVC were in latitude 58 dcg. 1 1 min. and in 7 deg. ^^ min. W. longitude. On the 12th, we had ice iflands continually in fight, but moft of them were fmall and breaking to pieces. On the 13th, we had a heavy fall of fnow ; but the fky clearing up, we had a fair night, and ib fliarp a froft, that the water in all our velTels on deck, was next morning covered with a flieet of ice. On the 14th, we continued to fteer eaft, inclining to the north, and in the afternoon crofted the firft meridian, or that of Greenwich, in the latitude of 57 ^^Z' 5° "^'"' ^* -^^ eight o'clock we had a hard gale, at S. S. W. and a high fea from the fame quarter.. On the 15th, we fteered E. N. E. till noon, when by obfervation, we were in the latitude of 56 deg. 37 min. S. and in 4 deg. 11 min. E. longitude. We now failed N. E. with a view of getting into the latitude of Cape Circumcifion. We had fome large ice-iflands in fight, and the air was nearly as cold as the preceding day. The night was foggy, with fnow fliowers, and , afmartfroft. On the 16th, we continued our courfe N. E. and at noon we obferved in latitude 55 deg. 26 min. E. longiiude, in which fituation we had a ^reat Iwell SECOND VOYAGE. 289 Iwcll from the fouth, but no ice iii fight. At one o'clock we flood to the fouth-eaft till fix, when we tacked, and flood to the north. At this time we had a heavy fall of fnow and fleet, which fixed to the mads and rigging as it fell, and coated the whole with ice. On the 17th, we had a great high fea from the louth, and from whence we concluded no land was near in that direction. On the i8th, the weather was fair and clear. We now kept a look out for Cape Circumcifion ; for if jhe land had ever fo little extent in diredion of N. and S. we could not mifs feeing it, as the northern point is faid to lie in 54 deg. On the 19th, at eight o'clock in the morning, land appeared in the diredlion E. by S. but it proved a mere fog-bank. We now fteered E. by S. till feven o'clock in the evening, when we were in latitude 54 deg. 42 niin. S. and in 13 deg. 3 min. E. longitude. We now Hood to N. W. having a very (Irong gale, attended with fnow fliowers. On Monday the 20th, we tacked and ftretched to the N. E. and had a frelh gale, attended with Inow fliowers and fleet. At noon, our latitude was 54 deg. 8 min. S. Ion. 12 deg. 59 min. E. but had not the leaft fign of land. On the 21 ft, we were 5 deg. to the eaft of the iongitude in which Cape Circumcifion is faid to lie, and continued our courfe ealt, inclining a little to the louth, till the 22d. We had now meafured in the latitude laid down for Bouvet's land, thirteen degrees of longi- tude ', a courfe in which it is hardly poflible we could have milfed it ; we therefore began to doubt its exift- ence ; and concluded that what the Frenchman had leen, could be nothing more than a deception, or an ifland of ice : for after we had left the fouthcrn ifles, to the prefent time, not the leaft veftige of land had been difcovered. We faw, *tis true, fome feals and penguins; but thefe are to be found in all parts of the fouthern ocean, and we believe fliags, gannets, boobies, and men of war birds, are the moft indubitable figns that denotfe the vkinity of land, as they feldom go very far out to fea. Being at this time only two degrees of longitude from Oo our d "^ C: 290 CAPTAfN COOK S our rout to the foutli, when we took our departure from the Cape of Good Hope, it was in vain for us to con- tinue our courfe to the eafl: under this parallel ; but thinking we might have feen land farther to the fouth. for this reafon, and to clear upfome doubts, we (leered S. E. in order to get into the fituation in which it was fuppofed to lie. On the 23d, from obfervatious on feveral diftances of the fun and moon, we found ourfelves in the latitude of 55 deg. 25 min. S. and in 23 deg. 22 min. E. longi- tude ; and having run over the track in which the land was fuppofed to lie, without feeing any, wc now were well aflured the ice iflands had deceived Mr. Bouvet, as at times they had deceived us. During the night, the wind had veered to N. W. which enabled us to fteer more north ; for we had now laid afide all thoughts of fearching farther after French difcoveries, and were determined to diredl our courfe for the Cape of Good Hope, intending only by the way to look for the ifles of Denia and Marfeveen, which by Dr. Halley are laid down in the latitude of 41 deg. 5 min. and 4 deg. E. longitude from the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. On Friday the 25th, we fleered N. E. and were at noon in latitude 52 deg. 52 min. S. k)ngitude 26 deg. 31 min. E. This day we law the laft ice-iiland. ■^ On Wednefday the i(l of March, we were m the latitude of 46 deg. 44 min. S. and in 2.3 deg. 36 min. W. longitude ; and we took notice, that the whole time the wind blew regular and conllant northerly, which included feveral days-,, the weather was always cloudy and very hazy ; but as foon as it. came to the ibuth or weft, it cleared up. We alfo obferved, that the barometer began to rife feveral days before this change happened. On the 3d, in the afternoon, we had intervals of clear weather, but at night the wind blewa< heavy fquall from S. W. whereby feveral of our fails were fplit, and a middle ftay-fail was wholly loft. We were now in latitude 41 deg. 30 min. S. longitude 16 deg. 51 min. E. We had not yet feen any figns of . land. .-Te*.- /^ SECOND VOYAGE. 291 land, but albatrofles, petcrcls, and other fea-birds, were our daily vifitors. On the nth, the wind fliifted fuddenly from N. W. to S. W. which occafioned the mercury to fall as fuddenly from 62 to 52 deg. fo differ- ent was the t^ate of the air between a northerly and foutherly wind. On Saturday the 12th, feme albatrofles and peterels we (hot, which proved an acceptable treat. This day we were nearly in the fituation in which the illes of Denia and Marfevecn are faid to lie, and not the leaft hope of finding them remained. On the 1 3th, we (lood to N. N. W. and at noon, by obfervation, were in lat. 38 deg. 51 min. S. which was above thirty miles more than otir iog gave us ; to what this difference was owing, we could not determine. The watch alfo Ihewed that wc had been fet to the eafl. At this time we were two degrees north of the parallel in which the ifles are laid down, but found not any encouragement to perfevere in our endeavours to find them. This mud have confumed more time, we think, in a fruitlcfs fearch ; and everyone, all having been confined a long time to ftale and fait provifions, was impatient to get into port. We therefore, in compliance with the general wiHr, refolved to make the bed of our way to the Cape of Good Hope. On Thurfday the 16th, at day-break, we.defcricd in the N. W. quarter, (landing to the weftward, two fail, one of which iliewed Dutch colours. About this time, a quarrel arofe between three officers and the fhip's cooks, which was not reconciled without ferious conlequences. Thole three gentlemen, upon fome occafion or other, entered the cook-room with naked knives, and with oaths, unbecoming their charader, fwore they would take away the lives of the firft who dared to affront them. It feems they hact formerly met with fome rebuffs for the much frequent- ing the cook's apartments, which had hitherto pafled in a joke ; but now a regular complaint was laid before the captain, of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of the danger the men were in of their lives j into which complaint the captain was under the neceffity of en- Q 2 quiring ; 292 CAPTAIN COOK*S quiring; and upon finding it juft, of confining the of- fenders in irons. While they were in this filuation, tlie articles of war being read, it was found that the offence was of fucli a nature as hardly to be determined without a reference to a court-martial, in order to which, the two who ap- peared mo(t culpable, were continued prifoners upon parole, and the third was cleared. After this bufinels had engrofTed the captain's attention, he called the fhip's company together, and after recounting the par- ticulars ot the voyage, thchardfhips they had met with, the fitigues they had undergone, and the chearfu'nefs they had conltantly fliewn in the difcharge of their duty, he gave them to underfland, how much it would flill recommend them to the Lords of the Admiralty, if they .w^ould preierve a profound lilence in the ports they had yet to pafs and might enter, with regard to the courfes, the difcoverics they had made, and every particular relating to this voyage; and likewife after their return home, till they had their Lordfhips' per- miffion to the contrary ; requiring, at the fame time, all the officers who had kept journals to deliver them into his cuftody, to be fealed up, and not to be opened till delivered to their lordfhips at the proper office. In the interim, they were to be locked up fafely in a cheft. This requefl was chearfully complied with by every commiffioned officer. On Friday the 17th, we obfervedat noon in the la- titude of 34deg. 42 min. S. in the evening we faw land, about fix leagues diltanr, in the direction of E. N. E. and there was a great fire or light upon it, throughout the firfl part of the night. On the 18th, at day-break, we faw, at the fame diftance, the land again, bearing N. N. W. At nine o'clock, we fent out a boat to get up with one of the two fhips before noticed ; we were fodefirous of hearing new-s that we paid no attention to the diflance, though the fhips were at leaft two leagues from us. Soon after we flood to the f(5uth, a breeze fpringing up at wefl:. At this time three more frtil were (sen to windward, one o{ which fhewed Eno;- • • . iilh SECOND VOYAGE. 293 lifli colours. Tlie boat returned at one o'clock P. M. and our people in it had been on board a Dutch India- man coming home from Bengal ; the Ihip was the liown- kirk. Polder, the Captain Cornelius Botch. The captain very politely made us a tender ot fiigar, arrack, and of any thing that could be (pared out ot the Ihip. By lome Englilh irarincrson boartl her, our people were informed, that our contort had arrived at theCape of Good Hope twelve months ago ; adding that a boat's crew had been murdered and eaten by the natives of New Zealand. This intelligence lufiiciently explained the myfterious accounts we had received from our old friends, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. On the 19th, at ten o'clock in the morning, the Englith Hiip bore down to us. She was the True Briton, Capt. Broadly, on her return from China. A letter to the lecrctary of the Admiralty was com.Tiitted to the care of the cap-- tain, who generoufly tent us treth provillons, tea, and' other articles. In the afternoon the True Briton flood out to Tea, and we in for land. At fix o'clock, we tacked within live miles of the fliore, dillant, as we conjedured, about fix leagues (rom Cape Aquilas. On the 20th, we flood along Ihore to the well ; and on the 21ft, at noon, the Table Mountain, over the Cape Town, bore N. E. by E. diflant ten leagues. The next morning we an- chored in Table Bay.; with us, in our reckoning, it was Wednefday the 22d, but with the people here, Tuefday the 2ifl, we having gained a day by running to the eafl. In the bay we found fliips of different nations, among which was an Englifh EattIndkman,from China, bound diredly for England. In this Ihip Capt. Cook fent a copy of his journal, together with Ibme charts and draw- ings to the Admiralty. We faluted the garrifon with thirteen guns, and the compliment was returned with an equal number. We now heard the de{)lorable llory of the Adventure's boat's crew confirmed, with the ad- dition of^felle report, concerning the lofs of a French fhip u^n'the lame iHand, with the total deftrucftion of the captain and his crew, propagated no doubt, by the Adventure's people, to render an adt of favage barbari- -'-'■ -■' • . . tv» i>9i CAPTAIN COOK S ty, that would fcarccly admit of aggravation, flill more horrible. But tlu)^;«rhich gave us tuJlfatisfadion about this matter, was, Capt. Furncaux liad left a 'cttcr for our commander, in which he mentions the lofs of the boat and ten of his men, in Queen Charlotte*s Sound. The day after our arrival at this place, Capt. Cook, accompanied by ourgentlemen, waited on Baron Plettcn- bcrg, the Dutch Governor, by whom, and his principal officers, they were treated with the greateft politenefs ; and as at this place refrefliments of all kinds may be procured in great abundance, we now, after the nume- rous fatigues of a long voyage, began to tafte and en- joy the Iweets of rcpofe. It is a cuftom here for all the officers to rcfide on fhore ; in compliance with which, the captain, the two Forfters, and Mr. Sparman took up their abode with Mr. Brandt, well known to our countrymen tor his ' liging readinels to ferve them. Our people on boarc vvere not negleded ; and being provided daily with frefh baked bread, frefli meat, greens, wine, &c. they were foon reftored to their ufual itrength, and as foon forgot all pad hard (hips and dangers. All hands were employed now to fupply all our de- fers, almoft every thing except the Handing rigging was to be replaced anew ; and it is well Known the charges here for naval flores are moft exorbitant ; for the Dutch, both at the Cape and Batavia, take a fcan- dalous advantage of the diftrefs of foreigners. That our cafks, rigging, fails, &c. Ihould be in a (battered condition, is cafily accounted for. In circumnaviga- ting the globe, we mean, from leaving this place till our return to it again, we had failed no lefs than lixty thoufand miles, equal nearly to three times the equa- torial circumference of the earth -, but in all this run, which had been made in all latitudes, between 9 and 71 deg. we Iprungn ither low-mafts nor top-mafts; nor broke fo much as a lower or top-maft (hroud. At the Cape, the curiollty of all nations was excited, to learn the fuccefs of our difcoveries, and in proportion to the earncftnefs of the felicitations, wherewith the common SECOND VOYAGE. 295 ixty qua- run, and nor At to tion the ■non common men were prcfled, by foreign inquifitors, they took care to gratify them with wonderful relations. Hence many ftrange (lories were circulated abroad, be- fore it was known by the people at large at home, whe- ther the Rcfolution had periflicd at fea, or was upon her return to Europe. During our ftay here, fcveral foreign fliips put in and went out, bound to and from India, namely, Englifh, French, Danifli, and three SpaniHi fliips, two going to, and one returning from Manilla. We believe it is but lately, that (hips of this nation have touched here ; and thefe were the firtl to whom were allowed the fame- privileges as other European (lates. We now loll no time in putting all things in readinefs to complete our voyage ; but we were obliged to unhang our rudder, and were alfo delayed for want of caulkers ; and it was absolutely necellary to caulk the (hip before we put to fea. On the 26th of April, this work was finiHied, and having got on board a frefli fupply of provifions, and all neceflary (lores, we took leave of the governor, and his principal otficers. On the 27th, we went oil board, and (bon alter, the wind coming fair, we weigh- ed and put to fea. ^Vhen under fail we faluted the garrifon, as is cuftomaiy, and they returned the com- plinient. When clear of the bay we parted company with fome of the ihips who failed out with us: the Danifli fhip (leered for the Eall-Indies, the Spanifli fri- gate, Juno, for Europe, and we and the Dutton India- man, for St. Helena. Depending on the goodnefs of Mr. Kendall's watch, we determined to attempt to make the ifland by a dired: courfe. The wind, in genera), blew faint all the pa(rage, which made it longer than common. On the 15th of May, at day-break, we iliw the ifland, didant fourteen leagues, and anchored, at mid- night, before the town, on the N. W. fide of the ifland. Governor Skettowe, and the gentlemen of the ifland, treated us, while we continued here, with the greateft courtefey. In our narrative of Capt. Cook's former voyage, 296 . CAPTAIN COOlv S Voyage, wc have given a full defcription of this ifland , to which we fhall only add, that the inhabitants arc far from exercifing a wanton cruelty towards their ilaves. We are intormed alfo, that wheel carriages and porter knots have been in ufe among them for many years. Within thefc three years a new church has been built ; fome other new buildings are ereding, a commodious landing-place for boats has been made, and other improvements, which add both ftrength and beauty to the place. Here we finilhed feme neceflary repairs, which wc had not time to complete during oui ftay at the Cape. Our empty water calks were alfo filled, and the fliip's company had frefli beef, at five- pence per pound. This article of refrefliment is very good, and the only one to be procured worth men- tioning. On the 2 1 ft, in the evening, we took leave of the governor, and then repaired on board. The Button Indiaman, in company with us, was ordered not to fall in with Afcenfion, for which we lleered, on account of an illicit trade, carried on between the Company's fhins, and fome veffels from North America, who of late years, had vifited the ifland on pretence of fidiing, when iheir real defi2,n was to wait the coming of the India fliips. The Dutton was therefore ordered to lleer N. W. by W. or N. W. till to the northward or Afceniion. With this Ihip we were in company till the 24th, wiien we parted. A packet for the Admiralty was put on board, and flie continued her courleN.W. On the 28th, he made the ifland of Afcenfion ; and on the evening anchored in Crofs Bay, in the N. W. lide, half a mile from the lliore, in ten f.ithoms water. The Crofs-hill, fo called an account of a flag-{lafFere(^ed upon it in form of a crofs, bore S. 38 deg. E. and and the two extreme points of the bay extended from N. E. to S. W. We had feveral fifhing parties out every ifight,*and got about twenty-four turtles, weigh- ing between four and five hundred weight each. This was our principal objedt, though we mighi have had a plentiful SE.COND VOYAGE; 297 pieiitiful fiJpply of filli in general. We have no where leen old wives in fuch abundance j alfo cavalies, con- gor eels, and various other lorts. T\m ifland lies in the diredicn N. W. and S. E and is ten miles broad, and five or fix long. Its furface is very barren, and fcarcely produces a (hrub, plant, or any kind ot vegetation, in the fpace of many miles j inftead of which we faw only (lones and fand, or rather flags and aHies : hence from the general appearance of the face of this ifland, it is more than probable, that at fome time^ of which we have no account, it has been deflroyed by a volcano. We met with in our ex- curfions a fmooth even furface in the intervals between (he heaps of (lones i but as one of our people obferved, you may as eafily walk over broken glals bottles as over the (lones ; for if you flip, or mak-^ a falfe flep, you are fure to be cut or lamed. At the S. E. end of the ifle is a high mountain, which (cems to have been left in its original Hate ; for it is covered with a kind of white marl, producing purflain, fpurg, and one or two lorts of grafs. On thefe the goats feed, which are to be found in this part of the iflc. Here are good land crabs, and the fea abounds with turtle irom January to June. They always come on fliore to lay their eggs in the ni?;bt, when they are caught by turning them on their backs, in which pofilion they are left on the beach till the next morning, when the turtle-catchers fetch ihem away. We arc inclined to think, that the tur^ ties come to this ifland merely for the purpofe of lay- ing their eggs, as we found none but females j nor had thole we caught any food in their ftomachs. We faw alfo near this place abundance of aquatic birds, fuch as tropic birds, men of war, boobies, &c. On the N. E. Jide we found the remains of a wreck ; flie feemed to have been a veflel of one hundred and fifty tons bur- then. We were informed, that there is a fine Iping in a valley between two hills, on the top of the moun- tain above mentioned ; hefides great quantities of freih \yater in holes in the rocks. VVhile the Relblution by in the road, a floop belonging to New-York anchored i$ V by 298 CAfxAIl'T cook's by her. She had been to the coaft of Guinea with a- cargo of goods, and came here under a pretence to take in turtle ; but her real inteivtion was, we believe, to traffic with the officers oi our homeward bound Ea(l- Indiamen j for (he had lain here near a week, and had got on board twenty turtles j whereas a floop from Ber- muda, had failed but a few days before, with one hun- dred and live on board, which were as many as (he could take in j but having turned feveral more on dif- ferent beaches, they inhumanly ripped open their bel- lies, for the fake of the eggs, and left the carcafes to putrefy. The center of this ifland of Arcen(ion is fitu- ated in thelat. of 8 deg. S. and in 14 deg. 2&min. 30 fee W. longitude. On the 3- 1 ft of May, we departed from the ifland of Afcenfion, and fleered with a fine gale at S. E. by E. for that of Fernando de Noronha, on the coaft of Bra- (il, in order to determine its longitude. In our paffage to this place, we had very good weather, and fine moon light nights, which afforded us many opportunities of making lunar obfervations. On the 9th of June we made the ifland, which had the appearance of feveral detached hills ; the largell of which very much refem- bled the fteeple of a church. As we advanced and drew near it, we found the fea broke in a violent furf on fome funken rocks, which lay about a league from the (hore. We now hoifted Englifli colours, and bore up round the north end of the iile, which is a group of little iflots i (or we perceived plainly, that the land was unconneded and divided by narrow channels. On one of thefe, next the main, arc feveral ftrong forts, ren- dered fo by the nature of tl^ir (ituation, which is fuch, as to command all the anchoring and landing places about the ifland. We continued to failn nd the north- ern point, till the fandy beaches, before which is th^ road for fhipping, and the forts were 6ptn to the weft- ward of the laid point. As the Refolution advanced, a gun was fired, and immediately the Poijtogueze colours were difplayed on all the forts : but. not ^tending to ftop •here, we fired a gun to the leevva?d, arid ftood away to the SECOND VOYAGE. 299 the northward, with a frefli breeze. The hill which ap- pears like a church tower, bore S. 27 deg. W. 5 miles dillant j and from our prefent point of view it appeared 10 lean, or over-hang to the E. Fernando de Noronha is in no part more than 6 leagues in extent, and exhibits an unequal furface, well cloathed with wood and her- bage. Its latitude is 3 deg. 53 min. S. and its longi- tude carried on by the watch, trom St. Helena, is 32 deg. 34 min. W. Don Antonio d'UUoa, in his ac- count of this ifland, fays, ** that it hvath two harbours, capable of receiving (hips of the greateft burden; one is on the north fide, and the other on the N. VV. The lormer is, in every refpedt, the principal, both for fhelter and capacioufnefs, and the goodnefs of its bot- tom ; but both are expofed to the north and well, though thefe winds, particularly the north, are periodical, and of no long continuance. You anchor in the north har- bour (which Capt. Cook called a road) in thirteen fa- thoms water, one third of a league from the (bore, bot- tom of fine fand ; the peaked hill bearing S. VV. 3 deg. ibutherly.'* This road, or (as Ulloa terms it) harbour, is very fecure for (liipping, being flieltered from the louth and eaft winds. On the nth, at three o'clock P. M. in long. 32 deg. 14 min. we croffed the line. We had fqually weather jrom the E. S. E. with (liowers of rain, which continued at times till the 12th, and on the 13th the wind became variable. At noon we were in lat.^3 deg. 49 min. N. and in 31 deg. 47 min. W. long. We had now for moft part of the day, dark gloomy wtather, till the evening of the 15th, at which time we were in lat. 5 deg. 47 min. N. and in 31 deg. W. long. After this we had three fucceffive calm days, in which we had fair weather, and rains alternately ; and fometimes the fky Wiis obfcured by denfe clouds, which broke in very heavy lliowers of rain. On the 1 8th, we had a breeze at E. which fixed at N. E. and we ftretched to N. W. As wc advanced to the N. the gale increafed. On the 21ft Capt. Cook ordered the ftill to be fet to work, with a view or making the ... greateft 300 CAPTAIN COOK S greatefl quantity poflible of frefli water. To try tliis experiment the dill was fitted to the largeft copper wo had, which held about 64 gallons of lalt water. At four o'clock, A. M. the fire was lighted, and at fix the ftill began to run. The operation was continued till fix in the evening : at which time we had obtained 32 gallons of frefli water. At noon the next day, the mer- cury in the thermometer was 84 and an half, as high as it is generally found to rife at lea. Had it been low- er, more water would have been procured ; for it is well known, that the colder the air is, the cooler the ftill may be kept, whereby the fi:eam will becondenfed fafl:er. The invention upon the whole, is a ufeful one, but it would not be prudent for a navigator to truft U'holly to it ; for tho' with plenty of fuel, and good coppers, as much water mviy be obtained, as will be neceflfary to fupport life, yet the ut mod efforts that can be employed in this work, will not procure a fufficiency to fupport health, efpecially in hot climates, where freth water is moll wanted ; and in the opinion of Captain Cook, founded on experience, the befi judge of this matter, nothing can contribute miOre to the health of feamen, than their having plenty of fweet frefh water. On the 25th, wc were in latitude 16 deg. I2min. N. and in 37 deg. 20 min. W. longitude. Obferving a fliip to windward, bearing down upon us, wethorten- cd fail ; but on her approaching, wc found by her co- Jours (he was Dutch ; we therefore made fail again, and left her to purfue her courfe. Oii the 28th, w^e obfer- vcd in the latitude of 21 deg. 21 min. N. longitude 40, deg. 6 min. W. and our couHe made good was N. oy W. On the 30th, a fiiip pafied us within hale; but (he was prefently out of fight, and we judged her to be Englilh. We were now in the latitude of 24 deg. 20 min. N. longitude 40 deg. 47 min. W. In latitude 29 deg. 30 min. we law fome fea-plants, commonly called gnlph weed, becaufe it is fuppofed to come from the gulph of Florida ; it may be fo, and yet it certainly ve- gitates at fea. We contioued to fee this plant in fmaU "^ pieces,. # SECOND VOYAGE. %ot pieces, till in the latitude of 36 deg. N. beyond which parallel we law no nuire of it. On the 5th of July, the wind veered to the eaft ; and the next day it was calm. On the 7th and 8tli wc had variable light airs; but on the 9th, tiic wind fixed at S. S. W. after which we had a frelh gale, and fleered at firft N E. and then E. N. E. our intention being to make fome of the Azores, or Weftern ifles. On the I ith, we were in lat. 60 deg. 45 min. N. and in 36 deg. 45 min. W. longitude, when we defcried a (ail fleering to the weft ; and on the 12th, came in fight of three more. On the 13th, we made the ifland of Fayal, and on. the 14th, at day-break, we entered the bay of De Horta, and at eight o'clock anchored in 20 fathoms water, about half a mile from the ihore. Our defign in touching at this place, was to make oblervations, from whence might be determintfd with accuracy the longitude of the Azores. We were direded by the mafter, of the port, who came on board before we caft anchor, to more N. E. and S. W. in this ftation, the S. W. point of the bay bore S. 16 deg. W. and the N, E. point, N. ^^ deg. E. The church at the N. E. end of the town N. 38- deg. W. tUc weft point of St. George's ifland N. 42 deg, E. diflant eight leagues ; and the ifle ni' Pico extending from N. 74 deg. E. to 3.46 deg. E. diftant five miles. In t;ie bay v\e found the Pourvoyer, a large French frigate, an American iloop, and a brig belonging to Fayal. . On the 14th, the captain lent to theconful,and noti- fied our arrival to the governor, begging hispcrmiflion to-grant Mr. Wales an opportunity to make his ob'erva- tions on (hore. This was readily granted, and Mr. Dent who acted as conful in the ablence oi Mr. Gathorne, not only procured this permillion, but accon:modated Mr. Wal-es with a convenient place in his garden to fet up his inftruments ; and in ieveral other particulars, this gentlemen difcovered a friendly readirefs to oblige us : even his houfe was always at our command both night ^nddayi and the entertainir^nt we met with there, was % liberal ''t iO^ CAPTAIN COOK S iiberal and hoipitable. All the time we {laid at this place, the crew of our fliip were lupplied with [>lciity of freHi beef, and we purchafed about 50 tons of water, at the rate of about three fliillings per ton. To hire Ihorc boats is the mod general cuflom here, though (hips are allowed, if they prcler many inconveniencies to a trifling expence, to water with their own boats. Frefli provifions may be got, and hogs, (lieepand poul- try, for fea-llock, at reafonable rates. The flieep are not only fmali, they arc alfo very poor -, but the bul- locks and hogs are exceeding good. Here is plenty of wine to be had. Before we proceed witJi our own obfervations, made during our abode at Fayal, it may be agreeable to our readers, to give them a brief account and defcription of all the Azores, or Wedern Iflands. Thefe have by different geographers, been varioufly deemed parts of America, Africa, and Europe, as they are almoft in a central point j but we apprehend they may with more propriety be confidered as belonging to the latter. They are a group of iflands, fituated in the Atlantic ocean, between 25 and 32 deg. of W. long, and be^ tween37 and 40 N. lat. 900 miles W. of Portugal, and as many eaft of Newfoundland. They are nine in number, viz. St. Taria, St. Miguel, or bt. Michael, Tcrceira, St. George, Graciofa, Fayal, Pico, Flores, and Corvo. Thefe iflands weie firft di (covered by fome Flemid? fliips in 1439, and afterwards by the Portuguefe ir) 1447, to whom they now belong. The two wcdern- moli were named Flores and Corvo, from the abun- dance of flowers on the one, and crows on the other. They are all fertile, and fubjedt to a governor-general, who refidcd at Angra in Terceira, which is alfo the feat of the biOiop, whofe diocefe extends over all the Azores. The income of the latter, which is paid in wheat, amounts to about 200I. fterling per year. On every ifland tljere is a deputy governor, who direds the police, njlitia, and revenue; and a juiz or judge, is at the head of the law department, from whom lies aij ^ appeal SECOND V0YAC7E. so: ,ip()eal to a higher court at Terceira, and from thence to the (upreme court at Lifbon. The natives of ihefc iflands are very litigious. St. Miguel, the largcll, is loo miles in circumfer- ence, contains about 29,000 inhabitants, and is very- fertile in wheat and flax. Its chief town is Panta del Gado. This ifland was twice ravrged by the Englilb in the time of Queen Ehzabeth. Terceira is reckoned the chief ifland, on account of its having the beft harbour; and its chief town, n'^med Angra, being the refidence of the governor-general and the biOiOp. The town contains a cathedral, five other churclies, eight convents, feveral courts of officers, &c. and is defended by two forts. The ifland of Pico, lb called from a mountain of vafl: height, produces excellent wine, cedar, and a valuable wood, called teixos. On the fouth of the ifland is the principal harbour, called Villa das Lagens. The inhabitants of Flores having been many years ago infedted with the venereal difealeby the crew of a Spanifli man of war, that was wrecked upon their coaft, the evil, it is laid, ftill maintains its ground there, none of the inhabitants being free from it, as in Pera, and feme parts of Siberia. Travellers relate, that no poifonous or venomous animal is to be found in the Azores, and that if carried thither, it will expire in a few hours. One tenth of all their produdVions belong to the king, and the arti- cle of tobacco brings in a confiderable lum. The wine called Fayal wine, is chiefly raifcd in the ifland of Pico, which lies oppofite to Fayal. From eighteen to twenty thoufand pipes of that wine are made there yearly. AVI of thefe iflands enjoy a falubrious air, but are cxpolcd to violent earthquakes, from which they have frcquentlv fuffered. ' " . — ^ Villd de Horta, the chief town in Fayal, like all the towns belonging to the Portuguefe, is crowded with religious buildings; there being no lefs in this little city> than three convents for men, and two for women. . . V*- • ^L -. jlerc 301- Co^i-TAIN COOK S Here are alfo eiglit churches, including thofe belohoing to the convents, and that in the Jeluit's college. This college is a noble (Irudure, and leated on nn elevation in the pleafariteft part of the city. Since the expul- fion of that order, it has been luffered to go to decay, and, in a few years, by the all confuming hand of time, may be reduced to a heap of ruins. The .principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which the inhabitants fupply Pico, which in return fends them wine more than fufficient for their coni'umption, great quantities being annually fhipped from De Horta (tor at Pica there is no road for fliipping) for America, whence it has obtained the name of Fayal wine. The villa de Horta is fituated at the bottom of a bay, clofe to the edge of the (ea. It is defended by tvvcr calllcs, one at each end of the town, and a tlone work extending along the lea fliore from the one to the other. But thefe works ferve more for (hew than defence. Be- fore this villa, at the eafl end of the ifland, is the bay or road of Fayal, which faces the ;cfl: end of Pico. It is a femi-circle, about two miles in diameter; and its depth, or femi-diameter, is better than three fourths of a mile. Upon the whole, we by no means think this road of Fayal a bad one. We were informed, by a Portuguefe captain of the following particulars, which, if true, are not unworthy of notice. This Portuguefe told us, that in the diredion of S. E. about half a league from the road, and in a line between that and the fouth fides of Pico, lies a concealed funken rock, covered with 22 fathoms water, and on which the fea breaks from the louth. He alfo gave us to underftand, that of all the flioals about thefe ifles that are laid down in our charts, and pilot books, only one has any exiftence, which lies between the iilands of St. Mary and St. Michael, called Hormingan. He further informed us, that the dif- tance between Fayal and the ifland of Fiores, is forty- five leagues; and that there runs a (Irong tide be- tween Fayal and Pico, the flood fetting to the N. E. and . the, SECOND VOYAGE. o f - the ebb to tlic S. W. but out at fca, the tlire6\lon is call and well. By various oblervations, the true lot-.gitudi: of tiiis bay was tuuiKJ to be iS cleg. 39 min. iS f^c. and a half. On tlie I9th>, at four o'clock A. M. we failed out of the bay, and llecred tor the welt end of St. George's ifland. Having palled this, wc Ihaped our courle K. haU S. for the liland of Terceira ; and after a run of fourteen leagues, we found ourlelves not more than one league from the weft end. We now proceeded as ex- peditioudy as the wind would permit for England ; and on the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. On the 30th, we cafl: anchor at Spithead,when Capt. Cook, in company witii Mellrs. Wales, Forfters, and Hodges, landed at Portfmouth, and from thence fet out for London. The whole time of our abfence from England was three years and eighteen days ; and owing to the unbounded goodnefs of an Almighty Preferver, who indulgently favoured our attempt, and feconded our endeavours, notwithftanding the various changes ot climates (and they were as varices as can be experi- enced) we loft only one man by ficknefs, and three by other caufes. Even the fmgle circumftance of keeping the fliip's company in health, by means of the greatcll care and attention, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every humane perfon ; and wc truft the grand end of this expedition, and the purpofes ibr which we were lent into the fouthern hcmilphere were diligently and fufficiently purfued. • The Refolution made the circuit of the fouthern ocean in a high latitude, and Capt. Cook traverled it in fuch a manner, as to leave no room for a mere pof- libility of there being a continent, unlefs near the pole, and confequently out of the reach of navigation. How- ever, by having twice explored the tropical fea, the lituation of old difcovoiies were determined, and a num- ber of new ones made ; io that, we flatter ourfclve?, upon the whole, the intention of the voyage l.as, thouph not in every refped", yet upon the whole, been fuffici- ently anfwered j and by having explored fo minutely O q ' the ^3 A. •V4-, J/i^*-. ,^o6 CAPTAIN cook's the fouthern hemilpherc, a final end may, perhaps be put, to fearching after a continent, in that part of the globe, which has, of late years, and, indeed, at times, for the two lall centuries, engrolled the attention of fome of the maritime |X)wers, and been a favourite the- ory among geogrn[)hers of all ages. The probability of there being a continent, or large traft of land, near the Pole, has been ahvady granted ; and we may have Icen part of it. The extreme cold, the numberlefs iflands, and the vatt floats of ice, give ftrength to this conjedure, and all tend to prove, that there mufl be main land to the fouth ; but that this mull extend fartheft to the north, oj)porite to the fouthern Atlantic and Indian oceans, we have already afligned Teveral reafons ; of which one is, the greater de- gree of cold in thefe feas, than in the fouthern Pacific Ocean, under the fame parailels ot latitude ; for in this lall ocean, the mercury in the thermometer feldom fell fo low as the freezing point, till we were in latituicle 60 deg. and upwards ; whereas In the other oceans,. it fell as low in the latitude of 45 deg. the caufe whereof we attributed to a greater quantity of ice, which extended farther north in the Atlantic and Indian oceans, than in the fouth Pacific fea ; and fuppofing the ice to be firft formed, at, or near land, of which we are fully perfuaded, it will be an undeniable confequence, that the land extends farther north. But what benefit can accrue from lands thus fituated, fhould they be difco- vercd ? lands doomed to everiafting frigidnefs ; and vvhofe horrible and lavage afpe6t no language or words can defcribc. Will any one venture farther in fearth after fuch a country, than our brave and fkilful com- mander has done ? Let him proceed, and may the God of univerfal nature be his gu-de. We heartily \vi(h him fuccefs, nor will we envy him the honour of his dil- covery. We will venture to fay, that this narrative is not defecflivein point of intelligence, that the fadls are true, and that the whole is exprelfed m an eafy ftilc, which, we flatter ourfelves ^vill not be dilpleaiing to our numerous friends, whofe favours we here take the opportunity of gratefully )crliap5, be >art of the > at tinic?. tention of )urite the- >robabiljty ^iK\, near may have uiiibcrleis rength to liat there this mud Tout hern y affigned ^iter de- n Pacific or in this Idom fell ittide 60 JSr . if fell ereof we 3xi^nded ns, than ce to be are fully ce, that lefit can )e difco- I fs J and )r words n fearcli il com- he God ifli him his dif- ^e is not le true, ich, we iiierous nity of itefully SECOND VOYAGK. 307 ijr.itcfally acknowledgiivi;. It has been obfcrvcd, that tiic priacip-il officers of the Rcfolutlon delivered their journals into the cuftody of Ca{)t. Cook ; and, on his arrival in England, Capt. Furneaux alio put into his hands a narrative of what happened in the Adventure after her final feparation from the Rcfolution. But it is here neceffiiry to remark further, that fume of- ficers in both fhips refervcd their private journals, and certain ingenious memorials, to gratify the curiofity of their friends. From fuch materials thcle (heets are compofed ; nor have we had recourfe to any printed au- thorities, but from the fble view of correding errors in Ibme j)laces, and rendering this undertaking a full, comprehenlive and perfed: work. This premiled, we jliall now lay before our readers a complete narrative of Capt. Furneaux's proceeding in the Adventure. J uc:i\ accurate, full, and complete account of Capt. 7" Furneaux's proceedings in the Adventure, from tlw -y lime he zvas Jeparated from tlie Rcfolution, to his v*^: arrival in England ; wherein is comprifed a faithful ^^' relation rcfpecting the boat's ci'ew, who were mur- >* • deredy and eaten tnj the Cannibals of '2ueen Char- - lotte's Sound, in New Zealand. IN O6lober, 1773, we made the coaft of New Zea- land, after a palFage of fourteen days from Amlier- dam,and flood along fhore till we I'eached Cape Turn- again, when a heavy florm blew us off the coaft for three days fuccefTively, in which time we were feparated from our confbrt, the Refolution, and law her not afterwards in the courfe of her voyage. On Thurfday, the 4th of November, we regained the fhore, near to Caj^e Palliler. Some of the natives brought us in their canoes abundance of cray fifli and fruit, which they exchanged for our Otaheite cloth, nails, &c. On the 5th the llorm agam returned, and we were driven off the fhore a fecond time by a vio- ,4. . Qjl 2 lent I 1 rio'6 CAPTAIN COOK S lent gale of wind, ace MiipanlLcl l)y licavy falls ot fleet, which laftcd two days ; io that by tliis linicour d cks began to leak, our beds or bedding vveie wot, which gave many of our peoi)lc colds ; and now wc were moll of us coiiiplaining, and all Ik'gan to dcrj)air of ever getting into the Sound, or, which wc had mofl at heart, of joining the Reloluiion. Wc combatcfl the llorm till Saturday the 6th, when being to the north oi the cane, and having a hard gale from S. W. we bore away lor (oiiie bar', in order to complete our wood and water, oi both which articles vvc were at j)rel'ent in great want. For iomeda\s pad we had been at the allowance of one quart of water, and it was thou( rendezvous, and by this time ready t:)r lea. I'art r,f the cre-v now employed in Hopping Lake, and rejmrin risainfT, which was inamoll llMttcret! c. ndition. were 0:i the 14th and 15th, we boilled out our boats, and lent them t^) incrjafeour ftock o'[ wood and water; i^ut on the lad day, the furf roie lo high, that they could not make the land. On the i6[h, having made i;ic jhip as fnug as poiTible, we unmoored at three o'clock A. iVI. and before fix got under way, From this tune t I the 23th, we had nothing but lempefluous weather, in which our rif?;ai[io; was almo(l blown to pieces, and our men quite worn down with fatigue. On the 29th, our water being nearly expended, we were again reduced to the fcanty allowance of a quart a man per day. We continued beating backward and forward till the 30th, when ilie weather became more moderate ; and having a favourable wind, we were fo happy at laft as to gain with tafety our defired port. After netting; throu^^^h Cook's Streiohts, we call anchor at three o'clock, P. M. in Q^ieen Cliarlotte's Sound. We law nothing of the Relblution, and began to doubt her I'afety ; but upon liavmg landed, we difco- vered the place where flie had pitched her tents ; arjd upon further exa nination, on an old (lump of a fee, we read the(e words cut out " Look underneath." We complied inllantly with thefe inltruitions, and digging, foon found a bottle corked driA waxed down, wherem was a letter from Cant. Cook, iniorminc?; us of their arrival at this pllce on the 3d inllant, and their de- parture on the 24th, and that they intended r[:'end!ng a iew days in the entrance of the itraiis to lock for us. W^e II 10 CAPTAi:-; cook's Wc imniscliately fct iibout the nccL^flary repairs ot the fhip, with an intention of getting her to lea as loon ai, poflihle. On tiie I ft of December, t'.ie tents were carried on fl-jorc, tlie arm«)urer's forge put up, -jicl every [)repara-> tion made for the recovery of the fick. 'l"he coopers were difpatchccl on fhore to mend the caf]LS, and wc be- gan to unllow th.e hold to get at the bread ; but upon opening the cafks, we lound a great quantity of it en- tirely fpoilcd, and mod pait lo damaged, that ue were obliged to bake it over again, which unavoidably de- layed us fome time. At intervals, during our flay here, the natives came on board as ufual with great familiari- ty. They gcneraly brought filli, or whatever they had to barter with us, and leeii^ed to behave with great ci- vility; though twice in one night they came to the tents VNith an intention of flealing, but were difcove red be for J they had accomplilhed their defign. A party alfo came down in the night of the 13th, and robbed the aflronomer's tent of every thing they could carry away. This they did fo quietly, tliat they were not fo iiiuch as heard, or fufpeiftcd, till the ailronomer getting up to make an oblervation, milled his inftruments, and charg- t?d tljf* centinal with the robbery. This brought on a pretty fevere altercation, during which they fpied an Indian creeping from the tent, at whom Mr. Bailey iired and wounded him ; neverthclefs he made a fhitt to retreat into the wood:. T!ie rc])ort of the gun had alarmed his confederate:-, who, inllead of putting oti' from ihc fhore, iled into the woodi:, leaving their canoe, With, moft of the tilings that had been (iolc'\ a-ground on Otc beai:li. Tiiis petty larceny, it is probable, laid the foundation of that drcad'ui tatallrophe which foon aftv?r happentci. On the i7tli, at which tim.e we were preparing for ou. departure, we lent out our large cutter, manned with y leamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowc, the lirll n-ale, accon.panied by Mr. Woodhoufe, mid- Ihip" an, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's fcrvant. They were to proceed up the Souiid to Grafs Cove ;>i».^ SECOND VOYAGE. ;5 1 1 Cove, to gather greens and celery for the (liip's com- pany, with orders to return that evening ; for tfie tents iiad been (Iruck at two in the afternoon, and the (liip made ready for I'aihng the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, the captain and others began to exprcl's great unealmefs. They fat up all night, in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpoie. At day-break, therefore, the ca[)tain ordered the launch to behoifted out. She was double manned, and under the command of our lecond lie'Uenant, Mr. Bur- ney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, mafler, the corpo- ral of marines, with five private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition, two wall pieces, and three days proviftons. They were ordered firft to look into Eart bay, then to proceed to (jrafs Cove, and if nothino; was to be feen or heard of the cutter there, thcv were to go farther up the cove, and return by the welt: ihore. Mr. Rowc having left the fhip an hour before the tiiTiC propofed for his departure, we thought his curiu- fity might have carried him into Eaft bay, none of our people having been there, or that fome accident might have happened to the boat ; for not the lead fufpicion was entertained of the natives, our boats having heen higher up, and wo'*fe provided. Mr. Burney returned about eleven o'clock the fame night, and gave us a pointed defcription of a moft horrible fcene indeed ; ;he fubft^vHce, and every material particular of whole reports, are contained in the following relation, which includes the remarks of thofe Vvho attended Mr. Burney. On the 1 8th, purfuant to our orders, we left the fliip, about nine o'clock in the miOrning. Having a light breeze in our favour, we foon got round Long liland, and Long Point. V/e continued failing and rowing for Eall Bay, keeping clofe in (fiorc, and exam- ining with our glaffes every cove on the larboard fide, till near two o'clock In the afternoon, at which time we flopped at a beach on our left, going up Eaft Ba , to drefs our dinner. While we were cooking, we law ai; ::/iii^ ■-t-jr- .» i ^ CAPTAIN COOKS an Indian on tlie oppollte (liore, running along a bcacii Xo the head of a bay ; and when our meat was iuH (lone, we |)crceived a company of the natives li^emincr- Jy very bufy ; ujjon leeing which, we got immediately into the boat, put oif, and rowed quickly to the place where the favag[cs were alTembled, which was at the head of the l^each ; and here, while approaching, \vc dikerned one of their fettlements. As we drew near feme of the Indians c:ime (.\o\\'n upon the rocks, anri waved for us to dej art ; but perctiving we dilregarded them, they altered their gellures and wi!d notes. At this place we obfcrv d fix large canoes hauled upon the beach, moil of them, being double ones ; but the num- "ber of people wen- in proportion neither to the fiz«^ of thele canoes, nor the number of houfes. Our little con^panv, c^nfiiling of the corporal and his five marines, h,eadf-d by Mr. Burney, now ' mded, leavmg the boat's ciew to guard it. L'[t' ap- proach the natives fled with great precipitation. We followed them clofely to a little town, which we found tleftrtcd ; but, while we were employed in fearching their huts, the natives returned, making a diew' of re- llilence ; but foir.e triflmg prefents being made to their thieh^, they were v'ery foon appeafed. However, on our return to the boat, the favages again followed us, and n^me of them threw (tones. As we came down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of hepatoos or long fpe-^rs, i-ut leeing Mr. Burney looked very earneltly at him, he waked about with feen:iing un- concern. Some of his coir.panions appeared to be tcr rilled, a few trifles were given to each of them. From the place where we now landed, the bay feemed to run a full mile N. N. W. where it ended in a long iiindy beach. After dinner we tookaview of the country near the coail with our 3 of the navij^tbie ocean, in tl-,e fou^hern hemifphere. No pro- pofilion was ever more clearly denionftrated, that there is no contip'!nt ur) difcovered in the fjuthern hemifph.ere, between the equator and the 50th deg. of G^uihern lat. ia which fpace all who have contended for its exiflence liavc included, if not the whole, at leafl the mod con- lidcrable part, but at the fame time that we declare our- lelves thus clearlv convinced of the non exiftence of a continent within the limits iuft mentioned, we cannot help acknowledging, our ready belief, that the land our navigators have difcovered to theS. E. of Staten-Land, is part of a continent, projecfling trom the north in a narrow neck, and expanding to the fouthward and wellward, more particularly towards the eaft. In this belief we are ilrengthencd by the ftrong reprefentation of land feen at a difiance by our navigators, in lat. 72 deg. and 252 deg. long, and by the report of Theodore Gcrrards, who, after palling the flraits of Magellan, be- ing driven by tcm{xfl:s into the lat, of 64 deg. S. in that iieight came in light of a mountainous country, covered with fnow, looking like Norway, and feemingly ex- tending!; from E. to \V. . CD The f:iv5ls and the obfervations made by Cant. Cook, corroborates each other J and though they do not re- duce the queftion to an abfolute certainty, yet the pro- bability is greatly in favour of the fuppofed difcovery. To conclude thele refledion?,and to place the charader of our judicious navigator in the mofh ftriking point of view, he performed a voyage of three years and eigh- teen SECOND VOYAGE. SlM teen days, witli u8 men, throughout all the climates, from 52 cleg. N. to 71 deg. S. with the lofs only of one man by ficknefs ; and even this one began fo early to complain of a cough, and other confumptive fymptoms, which had never left him, that his lungs muft have been affected before he came on board to go the voyage. Did any, mod converfant in the bills of mortality, whether in the mofl healthful climate, and in the beft condition of life, ever find fo fmall a lift of deaths, among fuch a number of men within that fpace ? How agreeable then muft our furprizc be, to find, by the affiduity and unremitted exertions of a fingle fkilful na- vigator, the air of the fea acquitted of all malignity, and that a voyage round the world has been undertaken v^rith lefs danger perhaps to health, than a common tour in Europe. Surely diftinguilhcd merit is here confpicuous, though praile and glory belongs to God only. May future navigators fpring out of this bright ex- ample, not only to perpetuate his juftly acquired fame, but to imitate his l.ibours for the advancement of na- tural knowledge, the good of fociety, and the true glory of Grcut-Britain. l>ND OF nil. 5J;:C0ND VOYAGE: ,i U)r>!-'VirJ;- •>!<< H I. CAPTAIN CAPTAIN COOK'S Third and last Voyage^ to the PACIFIC OCEAN AND NORTHERN HEMISPHERE, And porfonncd under Ihr diroclion of Captains Cook, Clerkc, and Gorr, in liis Maji'fty's fliips tlio Rcfolution and Difcovt rj, j»the)'cars I77(>, 1777, 177S, 17'7i>, and HSO. C H A P. I. Captain Cook's deparhire from Ev[;land — Jinicfiou with the Discovery at the Cape of Good Hope — Passage to Prince Eduard's Island A^^'ival at Van Diemen's Land — Interview ivitJi tlie ives — Arrival at 2ueen Charlotte's Sound — Par airs of the horrid massacre of the Adventure's boat's crew — Departure from i^luecn Charlotte's Sound, CAPTAIN James Cook failed from Plymouth Sound, on the 19th of July, 1776, in the Refoiu- tion floop of war : he was accompanied by Omai, whofe behaviour, on his departure, was a mixture of regret and fatisfadion. When the converlation turned on thofe who had honoured him witii their protedion andfriend- fhip, during his ftay in England, he could hardly refrain from tears. But the inilant his own iflands were men- tioned, his eyes fparkled with joy. He was deeply fen- fible of the good treatment he had met with here, and had the higheft ideas of the country and people. But the pleating profped he now had of returning home, loaded with what; he well knew, would be elleemed in- valuable treafures there, and the flattering hope which the THIRD VOYACn 32?. tl'C pofll;rfion of tliclc <>_ave liim, of attaining to a dif- tin'zuillied fuperiority among his countrymen, vvcrccon- licLrations which opcratt-d, by degrees, to fiipprers every unealy fenlalion. On tlie loth of Odober, arrived at the Cape of CJood Hope. Here he was joined, on the loth of November, by Capt. Gierke, in the Diico- very, who had not been permitted to iail after him till the ill of Augull. In his i)aira;.^c to the Cape, Captain Cook took care to guard aoalnft the ill confequentes ariting from the rains, and the clofc fultry weather ac- co:npanying them, by frequently purifying the air be- tween decks by fire and imoke, and obliging the peo- ple to dry their clothes at every opportunity. By con- Uantly continuirig to nbierve thele precautions, there were lewerfickon board the Rcfolution and Dilcovery, than in either of his former voyages. On the ifl of December both thips kft the Cape. On the 1 2th, they palled through two iflands, the larg- ell about 15 leagues in circuit, in the lat. of 46 deg. ^^ min. S. and in the Ion. cit 37 deg. 46 min. E. The longitude is reckoned from the meridian of Greenwich, and after paffing to the Eaft, in the South Atlantic, is carried on eafterly beyond the i8oth degree, to the ut- moll extent of the voyage ; and back to the fame me- ridian. Thefe two iflands, as well as four others, which lie from 9 to 12 degrees of longitude more to the E. and nearly in the lame latitude, were difcovered in 1772, by Captains iMarion and Crozet, two French na- vigators. To the two firft Capt. Cook gave the name of Prince Edward's Iflands, and the latter he called Ma- rion and Crozet's Ifla'.ds. On the 24th he came in fight of fome high iflands, which had been difcovered in 1773* by Kerguelen, a French captain, who named them all. The northcrmofl of thele, called Bligh's Cap, is in lat. 48 deg. 29 min. S. and long. 68 deg. 40 min. E. They next approached adefojate coaft called Kcrguelen's Land, which that navigator thought to be a continent, but which Capt. Cook found to an ifland. On the 25th, he entered a fafe harbour, which he called Chriftmas Harbour. Here they found plenty of water, but not a • S s 2 bit tH • ■■ J mmnwiffrm'^ 324 CAPTAIN COOK S bit of wood. The fliore was covered with penguins and other birds, and feals. The latter were not nume- rous, but fo infenfible to fear, that they killed as many of them as they pleafed, for the fake of their fat or blub- ber, to make oil for their lamps and other Tifes. On the 29th, they left this harbour, and ranging along the coaft, to afcertain its pofition and extent, they difcover- ed feveral promontories and bays, with a peninfula, and a new harbour, to all which Capt. Cook gave names. On the 31ft, Capt. Cook left this coaft, (leering E, by N. and on the 24th of January 1777, faw Van Die- men's Land, which is the foutbern point of new Holland, On the 26th they anchored in Adventure Bay, where they were employed in procuring wood and water. Oa the aSth, they were agreeably furprized with a vifit from fome of the natives, eight men and a boy. They ap- proached from the woods with the greateft confidence imaginable. One of them had a ftick in his hand about two feet long, pointed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments, unlefs we conlider as fuch, fome large puniftures or ridges on different parts of their bodies, fome in ftraight, and fome in turvcd lines. They were of the common ftature, but ilender. Their fkin was black, and alfo their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they had not remarkable thick lips nor flat nofes. On the contrary, their features were fartrom being difagreeable. They had pretty good eyes, and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Moft of them had their hair and beards fmeared with a red ointment ; with which fome alfo had their faces painted. Every prefent niade to them they received without the Icaft appearance of fatisfadion. When fome bread was given, as foon as they underftood it was to be eaten, they either returiied it or threw it away, withou*: even tailing it. The) alio refufed fome fifli, both raw and drelfed j but on giving fome birds to them, their be- haviour indicated a fondnefs for fuch food. Capt. Cook had brought two pig" aftiore, with a view of leaving them in the woods 5 but the inflant thefe came within ■^■•f^:. « 'p.& 1 THIRD VOYAGE, S2.S reach of the favages, they feized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately J with no other intention, as could be per- ceived, but to kill them. — B-ing defirous of knowing the ufe of the ftick before mentioned, Capt. Cook, by Hgns, prevailed upon one of them to Oiew him. This favage fet up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the dittance of about 20 yards. On repeated tri- als, howevei*, he was always wide from his objed, Omai, to (hew them the luperiority of our weapons, ihjn fired his mufqqet at it j which alarmed them fo much, that they ran inftantly into the woods. Notwithftanding their conflernation on this oc- cafion, on ^the 29th, about twenty of them, men and boys, vi(ite*d the crew again. One of this party was confpicuoully deformed ; and not more diflinguifliablvi by the hump on his back, than by the drollery of his geftures, and feeming humour of his fpeeches i which were evidently exhibited for the entertainment of his ftrange vifitors. His language, however, was wholly Ujpntdifcil?Ie. •i S^aferf this group wore loofe round their necks, three or four folds of fmall cords, made of the fur of fome animal ; and others had a (lip of the kangooroo ft.in tied round their ancles. Capt, Cook gave to each of them 4 ft ring of beads and a medal, which they feem- ed to receive with fatisfadion ; but they fet no value on iron or iron tools. They appeared not to know the ufe of fifh-hooks, nor was any canoe or velTel feen, in which they could go upon the water. Yet fhell-filh made a part of their food, as was evident from heaps of mufcle-fhells, that were feen in different parts near the fliore. Their habitations were little (beds or hovels built of fticks, and covered with bark. Evident figns appeared of their fometimes taking up their abode in the trunks of trees, which had been hollowed out by fire i and the marks of fire near thefe habitations, and near every heap of (hells, were indubitable proofs that they did not eat of their flefh raw. Some 1 ^ 32G CAPTAIN COOK S Some time after feveral women and children made their appearance, and (Capt. Cook having left his party of wood cutlers) were introduced by the men who, at- tended them to Lieutenant King, who prefented them all with fuch trifles as he had about him. Thefe fc- males wore a kangoorco ildn (in the fliape as it came from the animal) tied over their Hiouldors ap^jVjound their wailc. lis only ufe feemed to be, to fupport ihtir children when carried on tlicir backs; for it did not covcT tiioie parts whicii mod nations conceal ; being, in aU otiier relpech, as naked as the men, and as black, and then' bodies marked with Icars in the fame manner,. Some of the.n had their hair completely Hiorn or lliavcd, in others this operation had been peiforn^ed> only on one fide , wW^'il the red of them had all thc'upper part of the head (iiorn dole, liaviiig a tucle of hair all round, lb:iiewh;)r like rhe tonfure of the Roman Ecclehallics. Many of tlje children had fine features, and were thoug,lit pretty ; but of the perions of the women, cfpcciuily of thofe advanced in years, a kk favourable opinion was formed. However the gentlemen of the Capt. Cook wa: told, paid their addreHeJl liberal oilers ot preients, which were rejededv&ffT! great difdain ; whether from a ienfe of virtus, or a fear of difpleafing their men, he could not determine. That this. gallantry was not agreeable to the latter, is. cer- tain ; for an elderly man, as foon as he obferved it, or- dered all the women and children to retire, which they obeyed, though fb ne of them (hewed a little reludance. — Capt. Cook's reiledion on this circumflance mud not be omitted : *' This conduct of Europeans amongll Sa- vages, to their women, is highly b'a r;eable ; as it ere ates a jealouly in their men, that may be attended with coniequences fatal to the fuccefs of common enterprize, and to the whole body of the adventurers, without ad- vancing the private purpole of the individual, or en- abling him to gain the objc<5t of his wiflies. 1 believe it has been generally found amongll uncivilized people, that where the women are ealy of accels, the men are the lirll to oircr them to Itrangers j and that where this is • <. . ^'■ '^i'tCJK^e: ;\. -1 m' J THIRD VOYAGE. 327 >s P.ot tite cafe, neither the alkircments of prefents, nor tiiC opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the dchrcd effed. This obfcrvation, 1 am lure, will hold coorl, through all the parts of the South-Sea where I have been." To Capt. Cook's account of Van Dienien's Land, Mr. Anderfon, his furgcon, has added many particu- lars refpecling its natural hiftory. Among its vegeta- ble productions, he could not find one that aifordcd the final left fubfiftence for man. There are two kinds of foreft trees that are quite unknown to Europe. The only animal of the quadruped kind, which he could get, was a fort of opoiFum, about twice the (ize of a large rat j and which is, moft probably, the malj of that fpecies. It is of a du/ky co'our above, tinged with a brown or rufly call, and whitifh below. About a. third of its tail, towards its top, is white, and bare underneath; by which it probably hangs on the branches of the trees, as it climbs thefe and lives on berrie?. Of the feathered race, the moll fingular was a fmill bird, with a pretty long tail, and part of the head -dad neck of a beautiful azure colour, whence they named it Motacilla Cyanea. With refpcd to the inhabitants, Mr. Anderfon (be- fides what Capt. Cook has already obl'erved) lays, that they poflefs little aftivity ; and that, as for genius, they teem to have lefs than even the hali-animated natives of Tierra del Fuego, wiio have not invention fulFicient to make clothing to defend tliemlelves from the rigour of their climate, though furnilhed with the materials. The only thing in wliich they ieemed to difplay con- trivance, was the manner of cutting their arms and bo- dies, in lines of different lengths and diredicns, railed confiderably above the furface of the fkin ; for it is di- ficult to guefs the method they ufe in this embroidery of their perfons. Their not exprcOing that furprize, which one might have expected, at feeing men lo un- like themfelves,and things to which they had been here- unto utter itrangers, the indifference to the prefents made to them, and general inattention, were fufficicnt proofs ■M I" r-^ fcAPTAiJi cook s ;-?^/;,. proofs of their not poflefling any acutenefs of under- Handing. — What the ancient poets feigned of fawns ilityrs, living in hollow trees is here realized. Many of their largeft trees were converted into more com- fortable habitations than the wretched conftrudlion of 'fticks mentioned before. Thefe had their trunks hol- lowed out by fire, to the height of fix or feven feet j and that they take up their abode in them fome times was evident from the hearths, made of clay, to con- fine the fire in the middle, leaving room for four or five perfons to fit round it. At the fame time, thefe places of (belter are durable j for they take care to leave one fide of the tree found, which is fufficientto keep it growing as luxuriantly as iftiofe which remain untouched. In the morning of the ^oth of January, a light . breeze fpringing up at W. both fliips put to fea; Soon after the wind veered to the fouthward^ and increafed to a perfedt florm. Its fury abated in the evenings when it veered to E. and N. E. This gale was indicated by the b^.roi-neter : for tlic wind no fooner began to blow, than tlie mercUry in the tube began to fall. Another remarkable tiling at- tended the coming on of this wind, which was ve;y faint at firft. It brought v^ith it a de;^rc:e of heat that was almoil intolerable. The nu.cury in t lie th^v-' IO- meter rofe as it were inftantnasouily, tiOin i^bout 70 tc 90 deg. This heat was of toUiortrt continuance, ili.r. it feemed to be wafted away before u.z hr\:^ic tuit brought it ; fo that fome on boavti did not perc:ivc it. On the loth of Februiuy, tl cy dilcover^d tl:c hini of New Zealand; and, on the i?.tl', :tn;:horcd wi tiw'.: old ftation in Queen Charlott£*s SouruL Here tl' y were fully employed till the a^th* in procuring wov', water, and grafs for their cattle 5 in brewing fpruce beer, as a prefervative from the fcurvy ; and in making the neceffary obfervations to find the rate of the time- keeper, &c. &c. ' ^ ■ ' -^^ The natives came aloiig-fide the fliip in canoes^ but (hewed great reluctance when requefted to come on board. THIRD VOYAGE 329 board. Captain Cook imputed this behaviour to their being apprehenfive, that he had revifited their country, in order to revenge the deatii of Captain Furneaux's people, about ten of whom having landed from the boat, in a. part of the Sound, were maflacreed by the ravages. In this idea, Captain Cook endeavoured to convince them of the continuance of li is Trend (hip, and that he (hould not moleft them on account of this me- lancholy tranfadlion ; and the natives foon returned to their former confidence and freedom of intercourfe. Captain Cook, however, was fo mucli on his guard, and all his workmen were under the protedion of the marines, and no boat was fent to any diflance from the iliips, without being well officered and armed ; for he had not only the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in his mind, but that of Capt. Marion, and Tome of his people, in the Bay of Iflands, in 1772. Several of the natives ere(5tcd a kind' of temporary village of huts, clofe to Captain Cook's encampment. Befides tlicle, he was occaiionally viiited by others, from different quarters. The articles of commerce pro- duced by the natives, were curiolities, filh, and wo- men. The two fird always came to a good market ; wiiich the latter did not. The Teamen had taken a kind of diflike to theCe people j and were either un- willing, or afraid, to aflbciate vvith them ; *' which pro- duced this good effed,'* fays Captain Cook, " that I knew no inftance of man's quitting his ftation, to go to their habitations." . >* Among their occafional vifitors was a chief, narned Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people and had himfelf killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. Some of the natives, Itrongly importuned the Captain to facrifice him to his vengeance .; " Had 1 followed the advice of all our pre- tended friends," fays Capt. Cook, " I might have ex- tirpated the whole race ; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns, applied to me to deftroy the other." and Omai joined in thefe folicitations. But Kahoora re- 14 Tt pofed 33'^ CAPTAIN cook's pofed a perfe<5l confidence in the good faith of CaptanA Cook, and had no reafon to repent it. Captain Cook, one day, made an excurfion to Grafs Cove, the memorable fcene of the niaflacre. Here he met with his old friend Pedro j and from him, and fome of the natives, who were entirely guiltlefs of the deed, they received the fliocking particulars ; which were as follows : *' That while our people were fitting at din- ner, furrounded by feveral of the natives, fome of the latter ftole, or fnatched from them, fome bread and fidi, for which they were beat. This being refented, a quarrel enfued, and two New Zealanders were fliot dead, by the only two mufquets that were fired : for before our people had time to difcharge a third, or to load again thofe that had been fired, the natives rulhed in upon them, overpowered them with numbciS, and put them all to death." -r .,..,:•• s." '..-i t -t- .f .;. Capt. Cook was told, *' that a black fervant of Capt. Furneaux, who had been left in the boat to take care of her, was the caufe of the quarrel : that one ot the natives ftealing fomething out of the boat, the Negro gave him a fever.e blow with a flick : that the cries of the fellow being heard at a diliance, they ima- gined he was killed, and immediately began the attack on our people ; who before they had tiir.e to reach the boat, or to arm themlelves againft the impending danger, fell a facrifice to the fury of the favages." Capt. Cook thought it very probable that both thele accounts were true ; it being natural to fuppofe, that while fome of the natives were llealing from the man left in the boat, others of them might be taking the fame liberties with the property of our people, who were on fliore. But all agreed, that there was no pre- meditated plan of Woodflied ; and that if the thefts had not been too haftily refented, no mifchief would have happened. Kahoora being queftioned by Capt. Cook, faid. That one of his countrymen having brought a (lone hatchet to barter, the man, to whpm it was offered, took it, and would neither return it,*'nor give any thing foi* THIRD VOYAGE. 331 it J on which the owner of it fnatched up the bread as an equivalent, and thus the quarrel began. On the 20th, there was a violent ftorm from the N. \V. The gulh of winds from the hills were very violent, infomuch that they were obliged to ftrike the yards and top-mafts to the utmoft, and yet with difficulty rode it out. Thefe dorms are very frt;quent here. The neigh- bouring mountams, which at thefe times are always loaded with vapours, not only increafe the force of the wind, but alter its diredion in fuch a manner, that no two blafts follow each other from the fame quarter; and the nearer the fliore, the more their effeds are felt. Great numbers of the natives continued to vifit the encampment, particularly while the crew were melting fome blubber. No Greenhmder ever fcenied to be more fond of train oil. They relifhed the very fkim- mings of the kettle, and dregs of the cafks ; but a little of the pure ftinking oil feemed to be a mod delicious feaft. Among the mod remarkable particulars in the natu- ral hidory of this place, which are copioully defcribed by Mr. Anderfon, we mud not omit to take notice of the driking contrad, which the face of the country aftbrds to that of Van Dicmen's Land — It is uncom- monly mountainous, rifing immediately from the fea into large hills with blunted tops. At confiderable dif- tances are vallies, or rather impreflions on the fides of the hills, which are not deep, each terminating towards the fea in a Imall cove, with a pebbly or fandy beach ; behind which are fmall flats, where the natives generally build their huts, at the fame time hauling their canoes upon the beaches. This fituation is the more con- venient, as in every cove a brook of fine water empties itfelf into the fea. The hills are one continued fored of lofty trees, fiouriOiing with a vigour almod fuperior to any thing that imagination can conceive, and affording an augud prorpe(fl to thofe who are delighted with the grand and beautiful works of nature. The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt, contributes much to this uncommon drcngth in vege- \. . T <■ 2 tation . 53^ CAPTAIN COOK S tation : for, at this time, though answering to our month of Auguft, the weather was never difagreeably warm ; nor did it raife the thermometer higher that 66 deg. The winter, alfo, feems equally mild with rcfped to cold: for in June 1773, which correfponds to our December, the mercury never fell lower than 48 degrees; and the trees, at that time, retained their verdure, as if in the fummer feafon ; fo that, in Mr. Anderfon's opi- nion, their foilage is never fhed, till puflred off with the fucceeding leaves in fpring. In (hort, the only obftacle to this being one of the fineft countries upon earth, is its hillincfs ; which allowing its woods to be cleared away, would leave it le(s proper for pafturage than flat land ; and ftiil more improper for cultivart:ion, which could never be ctfeded by the plough. '^^'-' -J*' Among the plants one deferves particular notice, as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a iine filky flax, fuperior in appearance to any thing we have, and probably as flrong. It grows in bunches of tufts, with fedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long ftalk, yeliowifh flowers, which are fucceeded by a longround- lih pod, filled wnth very thin fliining black feeds. — Another plant, which bears a red berry, and which is much like the fupple jack, growing about the trees, ftretching from one to another, in fuch a manner, as to render the woods almoft wholly impaflTible. Among the birds are feveral forts of cuckoos, one of which is not larger than a fparrow, of a fplendid green caft above, and elegantly varied with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours below. Another kind is of a black colour, with a greenifli caft, which is re- markable for having a tuft of white curled feathers hanging under the throat. This tuft of feathers relem- bled the white flowers ufed as ornaments in the ears at Otaheite, and called Poowa, whence our failors called this the Poy Bird. There is alfo a fmall greenifh bird, which is almoft the only mufical one here, but is fuflici- cnt to fill the woods with a melody, that is not only fweet, but fo varied, that one would imagine he was furrounded by a hundred different forts of birds, When the THIRD VOYAGE. 333 the little warbler is near. Hence it was named the mocking bird. With refped to quadrupeds, it is remarkable, that in this extenfive land, there is not even the trace of one, except only a tew rats, and a lort of fox-dog, which is a domeftic animal with the natives. Neither is there any mineral worth notice but a green jafper, or fcrpent- ftone, of which the natives make their tools and orna- ments. Of the natives we can here only obferve, that, con- trary to the lavages of Van Diemen's Land, they fliew as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, as any uncivilized nations under fmiilar circumftances : for, without the ufe of any metal tools, they make every thing by which they procure their fubfiQencc, clothing, and warlike-weapons, with a degree of neatneis,{lrengtli and convenience for accompiilhing their feveral pur- pofes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed exadly after the manner of our adzes ; and is made, as are alfo the chiffel and gouge, of the green fcrpent-ftone already mentioned. But their mafter-piece feems to be carving. The heads of their canoes are fometimes ornamented with it, in fuch a manner, as not only (hews much de- fign, but alio is an example ot great labour and patience in execution. Their cordage for filhing-lines is equal m flrength and evennefs, to ours, and their nets not at a»t inferior. But what muft coft them the greateft labour, is the making of the tools we have mentioned j for the flone is exceedingly hard, and the only method of faflii- oning it, is by rubbing one ftone upon another. Their fubilitute for a knife is a (hell, a bit of flint, or jafper. And, as an auger, to bore with, they fix a fliark*s tooth in the end of a fmall piece of wood. It is true, they have a fmall faw, made with fome jagged fifhes teeth, fixed on the convex edge of a piece of wood nicely car- ved. But this, they lay, is only uied to cut up the bodies of their enemies, whom they kill in battle. From this country, Capt. Cook, at the requeft of Omai, and with their own and relations confent, took two young Zealanders. On the 25th of February, the Captains •> • 1* 334 CAPTAIN cook's Captains Cook and Clerk left Queen Charlotte's Sound; and on the 29th of March following, came within fight of the ifland of Mangea. During Captain Cook's paffage to the ifland of Man- gea, the two adventurers from New Zealand, repented heartily of the ftep they h:\d taken, immediately after they had loft light of their own country, the fca ficknefs they experienced giving a turn to their reflexions. All the foothing encouragement that could be thought of availed but little. They wept both in public and pri- vate ; and made their lamentations in a kind of fong, which, as far as the meaning of the word could be un- derftood, was expreflive of the praifes of their own country and people, from which they were to be fe- parated from them for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till their fea-ficknefs wore off, and the tumult of their mind began to fubfide. Then thefe fits of lamentation became lefs and lefs frequent, and at length entirely ceafed. Their native country and their friends, were, by degrees, forgotten; and they appeared to be as firmly '-ctached to their new acquaintances, as if they had beeti born among them. :,•■ ...a- M""/ - - The ifland of Mangea, (which is the name the natives give it) lies in the latitude of 21 deg. 57 min. S. and 201 deg. 53 min. E. Capt. Cook pronounces it from its exterior appearance, to be a very fine ifland, capable of fupplying all their wants ; and he computes it to be about five leagues in circuit. But he found it impofli- ble either to land here, or to find any anchorage for his fliips J fuch part of the coaft as fell under his obfer- yation, being guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the out-llde of which the fea is of an unfathomable depth; and a great furf broke with violence againft the (liore or againft the reef that furrounded it. t- . iMiirt ^^jit Early in the morning of the 30th of Feb. feveral of the natives were perceived upon a fandy beach, all arm- ed with long fpt.^rs and clubs, which they brandiflied in the air with figns of threatning, or as others interpreted their attitude, with invitations to land. Moft of them were n?ked, except having a fort of girdle, which* being THIRD VOYAGE. 335 being brought up between the thighs, covered tlmt part of the body. But fome of them had pieces of cloth of different colours, white, flripcd, or chequered j thrown ?.bout their (houldcrs ; and almofl all ot them had a kind of white turban ; and iome others, a fort of high conical cap. They were of tawny colour j and in general of a middling ftature, but robull, and inclined to corpulence. At this time, i\ fmill canoe was launched in a great, liurry from the farther end of the beach ; p.iv^, a man getting into it, put oft', a*; with a view to reach the (bip. On this, the Captain brought to, that he might receive the vifit ; but the man's refolution failing, he foon re- turned towards the beach, where, after fbmctimc, ano- ther man joined him in the canoe ; and then they both paddled, towards the fliip. They ftopt fhort, however, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addrcfrecl them in the Otaheite language, in fome meafure quieted their apprehenfions. They then came near enough to take fome beads and nnils, which were tied to a i)iece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. They Teemed afraid to touch thefe things, and put the piece of wood afide, without untying them. This, however, might arifc from I'uperflition ; for Omai faid, tliat when they faw us offering them prefents, they afked fbmething tor their EATOOA, or God. He alfo perhaps improperly put the queftion to them, whether they ever eat human flelh .'* which theyaniwered in the negative, with a mix- ture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whole name was Mourooa, being afked how he came by a fear in his forehead, anfwered, that it was in conCequeriCe of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an ifland, which lies to the North-Eaflward, who lomc- times came to invade them. They afterwards took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board ; but told Omai, that their countryman had given them this caution, at the fame time direding them to inquire whence the (hip came, and the name of the Captain, ^t='^/- ^ "'" - ^^-.' '■ .;;•':'"■ *- • • '••^ Mourooa. S36 CAPTAIN COOK S Mourooa was lufly, but not very tall. His featurej were asreeoble, -ind his difpofition feemingly no lefs fo 5 tor ii£ marie Teveral c):oll gefticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a (hare of humour. He alfo made others, which feemed of a ferious kind, and repeated fome words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope ; which was probably to recommend himfelf to the protection of fome Divinity. His colour was nearly of the fame call with that common to the more fouthern Europeans. The other was not lo hand- fome. Both of them had (Irong iftraight hair of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore girdles, which were a fubliance made from the Morus papyrifera, in the fame manner as at the other iflands in this ocean. It was glazed like the fort ufed by the natives of the Friendly Iflands j but the cloth on their heads was white, like that which was found at Otaheite. They had on a kind of fandals, made of a gralTy fubfhance, interwoven, and probably in- tended to defend their feet againft the rough coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the infide of their arms, from the fhoulders to the elbow, and fome other parts were punctured or tatooed, after the manner of the na- tives of ahnoflall the other iflands in the South Sea. The lobe of the ears was pierced, or rather flit, and to fuch a length, that one of them (luck there a knife and fome beads, which had been given them ; and the fame perfon had two poliflied pearl-Qiells, and a bunch of human hair, loofly twifted, hanging round his neck. The canoe ti\ey came in was not above ten feet long, and ve.'"y narrow, but both flrong and neatly made. The forepart had a flat boaid faflened over it, and pro- jedling out to prevent the fca getting in on plunging. About ten o'clock, the Captain went into a boat to found the fliore. He had no fooner put off, than the two men in the canoe paddled towards the boat, and having come along fide, Mourooa ftept into her, without b^.ing alVed, and without a moment*& hpfi* tation, - . •' • - vWhile -ihhC' THIRD VOYAGE. 337 While thus employed in rndeavouring to land( which Was found inipoffible, unlefs at the rifk of having the boat filled with water, or even ftaved to pieces) great numbers of the natives flocked down to the beach, all armed as above mentioned. Mourooa, probably think- ing that this warlike appearance prevented their land- ing, ordered them to retire. As irany of them com- plied, he was judged to be a perfon of fome confequence. So great was the curiofity of feveral, that they fwam to the boat, and came on board without refervc. It was even difficult to keep them out, and ftill more difficult to prevent their carrying off every thing upon which they could lay their hands. At length, when they per- ceived the boat returning to the ftiip, they all jumped out, except Mourooa. He, though not without evident figns of fear, kept his place, and went on board the ihip. The cattle, and other objefts, did not ftrike him with fo much furprife as one might have exoedted. But, in fiift, he feemed very uneafy; and as the fliip, on his getting on board, happened to be Handing off (liorc, this circumftance made him the more fo. After a ftiort ftay, the captain ordered a boat to carry him in towards land. As foon as he got out of the cabin, he flumbled. over one of the goats. His curiofity now overcoming his fear, he ftopt, looked at it, and afked Omai, What bird this was? The boat having conveyed him pretty near the furf, he leaped into the fea, and fwam alhore. He had no fooner landed, than the multitude of his countrymen gatliercd round him, as if eager to iearn what he had feen. As foon as the boat returned, the Captain made fail from the land to the Northward, The natives of Mangea, as do all the New Zealanders, falutc llranger^ by joining nofes ; adding, however, the addi- tional ceremony of taking the hand of the perfon to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it, with a* degree of force, upon their nofe and mouths. On the ill of April, Captain Cook, came in fight of an ifland, nearly of the fame appearance and extent as, Mangea j and, at the fame time, another land, but much 15 Uu fmaller. m CAPTAIN COOK S ^ 33^ Imaller, was fcen right a-head. The firfl:, as they after- wards learned from the natives, was called by them Wateeoo. it lies in the lat. of 20 deg. i min. S. and in the Ion. 201 deg. 45 min. E. and appeared to be a beautiful fpot, with a furface compofed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. The next day, two armed boats' were lent out, to look for anchoring ground and a landing place, in the mean lime, the natives came off in canoes, to.vifit the two (hips,, and to be quits free from the apprehenfions that liad been fo vifible in the inhabitants of Mangea. Pre- fents were reciprocally given and received. In one of thefe vilits, the natives, as they drew near the 111 ip, re- cited fome words in concert, by way of chorus, one of their number firft (landing up, and giving the word be- foreeach repetition. When they had finiflied their fo- lemn chant, they came along fide and afked for the Chief. After giving fome prefents, they were conduced into the cabin, and to other parts of the Ihip. Some objedsfeemed to llrike them with a degree offurprifc; but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horfes; nor did they form the lead conception of their nature. But the flieep and goats did not furpafs the limits of their ideas; for they gave us to underftand, that they knew them to be birds. It will appear rather incredible, that hiiman ignorance could ever make fo llrange a miftake ; there not being the moft diftant likenefs be- tween a Iheep or a goat, and any winged animal. But thefe people feemed to know nothing of the exiflence of any other land-animals, befides hogs, dogs, and birds. The fliecp and goats, they could fee, were very diffe- rent creatures from the two firft, and therefore they in- fered, that they mult belong to the latter clafs, in which they knew there is a conliderable variety of fpecies. '• • ' The people in thefe canoes differed little from the na- tives of Mangea. Ornaments, compofed of a fort of grafs llained with red, and ftrung with berries of the night- fliade, were worn about their necks. Their ears were bored, but not flit; and they were pundured upon the "T*: TffJRD VOYAGE. 339 legs, from th€ kne^ to the heel, which made theai ap- pear as if they wore a kind of boots. Lieutenant Gore, with the two boats, returned in the afternoon, iiaving found the fame obHirudions both to landing and anchoring, which th.cy had found at iVIan- gca. But as the natives Teemed very friendly, and to exprels a degree of difappointmcnt, when they f.iw- the boats crews fail in their attempt to land, Mr. Gore was of opinion, that by means of Omai, who cuuld befl ex- plain the requell, they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats beyond the furf, fuch articles as were mod wanted, in particular the il'-ms of plantain-trees, which were good food for the cattle. Accordingly, about ten the next morning, Mr. Gore was dilpatched with three boats, to try the experiment. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompa- nied him; and Omai went as Interpreter, [n order to obferve their motions, and to be ready to give thern fuch afTiftance as they might want, Captain Cook kept as near the fliorc as was prudent, l le was fcnfible, kowever, that liie reef was as eti'cclu.T.! a barrier between liitn and his friends who had landed, and put them as Uiuch beyond his protedlion,* as if halt the circumference of the globe had inliiprvened. But the iflanders, it was probable, did not>]S^ow this fo well as he did. In the mean time, theoccafional vifits of t lie natives on board the (hipS;, fcrved to kfien his folicitudefor his friends on fliore. AtUeno;tli, a little before lun-iet, he had the- fitisfadion of feeing the boats put off. , When they got on board, he found thp.t Mr. Gore, Om;ii, Mr. Ander- fon, and Mr. Barney, were the only perfons that had landed. Mr. Anderfon's narrative of the tranfaClions of the day being extremely intereiting, we lliall give it in his own words. " We rowed," fays Mr. Andcrfon, " towards a fmall fandy beach, and came to an anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little further from the (hore. Several of the natives fwam off, bringing cocoa-nuts ; and Oaiai, with their country- men, whom we had witli us in the boats, made them- ...•2* fenfible 4 34® CAPTAIN cook's fenfible of our wlih to land. Soon after, two canoes came off ; and to create a greater confidence in the inlanders, we determined to go unarmed, and to run the hazard ot being treated well or ill. -•= -vi ^pirfv -^i^, J^ ^V Ourcondudors, watching attentively the motions If tlie furf, landed Mr. Burney and myfelf, who were in the firft canoe, fafeiy upon the reef. An iflander took hold of each of us, obvioufly with an intention to fupport us in walking over the rugged rock, to the beach, where feveral of the others met us, holding the green boughs, of a fpecies of Mimofa in their hands, and faluted us by joining their nofes to ours. Mr. Gore and Omai were landed from the fecond canoe. ** A great croud flocked with eager curiofity to look at us j and would have prevented our proceeding, had not fome, who feetiied to have authority, dealt blows, tv'irh little dillindion among them, to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue pf cocoa palms ; and foon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, and armed with clubs, which they hold on their (bould- ers, rr.'jch in the fame manner as we reft a muiket. After walking a Httle way among thefe, we found a per- fon whoieemed a Chief, fitting on the ground crofs-leg- ged, cooling. himfelf with a fort of a triangular fan, rtiade from a leaf of the cocoa- palm, with a polilhed handle of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large branches of beautiful red feathers, which •pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or orna- ment, to dillinguilh him from the reft of the people; though they all obeyed him with the greateft alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this time put on, a ferious, but not fevcre countenance ; and * we were defired to falute him as he fat, by fome people who^fceipicd of Con* fequence. ,.,,.^{ ^,„„,n,fjtnr, . Ac.i: iau\YX] nii*^ ,t)l-.n-.v ** We proceeded ftill ^^mongft the men armed with clubs, and came to a fccond Chief, who f^t fanning himfelf, and ornamented as the firft. He was remark- able for his fize, and common corpulence, though to ap- pearance not above thirty. In the fame manner, we were conducted to a third Chief, who feemed older than- the THIRD VOYAGE. 34C the two former, and though not fo fat as the fecond, was of a large fize. He alfo was fitting and adorned with red feathers; and after faluting him as we had done the others, he defired us both to (it down, upon which we were very wilhng to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up and down, and with the exceflive heat we felt, amongft the vaft crowd that furrounded us. ** In a few mittutes, the people were ordered to fe- parale; an^ we faw, at the diftance of 30 yards, about 20 young women, ornamented as the chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they per- formed to a flow and ferious air, fung by them ait. We got up, and went forward to fee them ; they con- tinued their dance, without paying the lead attention to us. They feemed to be direded by a fnati who ferved as a prompter, and mentioned each tnotion they were to make. But they never changed the fpot, as we do in dancing, and though their feet w^ei-e not at reft, this exercife con fi (led more in moving their (ingers very nimbly, at the fame time holding their hands in a prone potition near the face, and now and then alio clapping them together. Their motions and fong were performed in fuch exaft concert, that it fliould feem they had been taught with great care; a-nd probably they were feleded fdr this ceremony, as few of thoie whom we faw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they were rather (tout than llender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the heck, and of olive complexion. Their features were rather fuller than that we allow to perfect beauties, and much, alike; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance exprelled a degree of complacency, and, model^y, peculiar to the fex in every part of the world ; but perhaps more confpicuous here, where nature prefented us with her productions in the fulled perfedion, unl^ialled by fentiment in cuflom, or unre- itraif.dd'ift manner by art. Their (liape and limbs were elegantly formed.''r'^^"'"'^"'''^t^'-^-^ .jnr> ,^^!i ^u' a.^ :/ ..^ nw*« This dance was not finilhed, when we heard a noife, as if fome hoVfes had b(^n galloping towards ■;"i.* Ub; 34^ CAPTAIN COOK S us; and on looking aficle, we faw the people armed with clubs, who had been defircd, as vye luppole, to entertain us with tiie fight of tljcir manner of fighting. This they now did, one party purlumg another, who fled. •../»-.., ■ ^ *^ As we fuppofed the ceremony of being introduced to the chiefs was now at an end, we began to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai ; and, though the crowd would hardly futfer us to move, we at length found them coming up, as much incommoded by the people as we liad been, and miroduced in the fame manner to the three chiefs. Each of thefe cxpedled a prefcnt; and Mr. Gore gave them luch things as he had brought with him fi'om the (hip, for that purpofe. Aficr'this, making ufc of Omai as his interpreter, he informed the chiefs with what intention we had come afliore; but was given to underfland, that he muft wait till the next day, and then heOipuid hj^ve w.hat was wanted. • p*-*j'.' •" <«.•- ^ ■ ■"■;'-— ^ ,,..-...,.,.. ..„ . *' They now Teemed to take fome pains to feparate us from each other ; and every one of us had his will to furround and gaze at him. For my part, I was, at one time, above an hour apart from my friends ; and when I told the chief, with whom I fat, that 1 wanted to ipeak to Omai, he peremptorily refuted my requeft. At the fame time, J found the people began to (leal Teveral trifling things which I had in my fwcketj and when I complained to the chief of this treatment, he juftilied it. From the above circumflances, I now entertained apprehenfions, that they had a defigji to detain us amongft them. They did not, indeed, feem to be of a difpolition fo lavage, as to make us anxious for the iiifcty of our pcrfons ; but it was neverthclefs, vexing to think, we had hazarded being detained by their ciiri* ofuy. In this iituation, I aiked for fomething to eat ; and they readily brought me fome cocoa-nutb^ bread- fruit, and a iort of four pudding, which was prefented by a woman. And, on my complaining much of the heat, occafioned by the crowd, the chief himfelf con- delcendcd THIRD VOYAGE. 34;^ cldfcended to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of cloth, which he had round his waifl:. ; ,". - : .?- . - " Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where T was, I mentioned my fulpicions to him ; and to put it to the teft, whether they were well founded, we at- tempted to get to the beach. But we were flopped when about half way, by fome men, who told us, we muft go back to the place we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the (ame apprehen- fions, but he had, as he fancied, an additional reafoa for being afraid ; for he had obferved, that they had c);',i; a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were w^r . and he could affign no other reafon for this, ' at they meant to roaft and eat us, as is praftifed by ti - New Zealanders. Nay, we went fo far as to afk the queflion ; at which they were greatly furprifed, aiking in return, whether it was a cuftom with us ? Mr. Burney and 1 were rather angry that they (liould be thus fufpe a l^ng green ba/ket, with a fvjfficieiu t^antity of baked *' M «■ V V Y THIRD VOYAGE. 345 plahtains to have ferved a dozen pcrfons. A piece of the young hog that had been dreffed, was then fet be- fore eich of us, of which we were defired to eat. Our appetites, however had failed, from the fatigue of the day ; and though we did eat a Httle to pleafe them, it was without fatisfadtion to ourfelvcs. " It being nov^ near fun-fet, we told them it was time to go on board. This they allowed ; and fent down to the beach the remainder of the victuals that had been drefled, to be carried with us to the Ihip. We found a canoe ready to put us off to our boats ; which the natives did with the fame caution as when we landed. They put us on board the boats, wi*u ♦^he cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provifions, which they had brought j and we rowed to the (hips, very well piealed that we had at lafl got out of the hands of our froubleibme mafters. It was mentioned, that Omai was fent upon this ex- pedition ; and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore*s interpreter, was itQt the only fervice he performed this day. He was afked by the natives a great many queftions con- cerning our people, our (hips, and our country, and the fort of arms we ufed .* and, according to the account he gave to Captain Cook, his a^ifwers were not a little upon, the marvelous. Our country, he told them, had (hips as large as their ifland ; on board which were in- ftruments of war {defcribing our guns) of fuch dimen- fions, that feveral people might fit within them ; and that one of them was fu(ficient to crufh the whole ifland at one (hot. This led them to aflt what fort of guns were on board Captain Cook's (hips. He faid, that though they were but fmall in comparifon with thofe he had defcribcd, yet, with iuch as they were, they could with the greateft eafe, and at the diilance the (hips were from the (bore, deftroy the ifland, and kill every foul in it. They then inquired by what means this could be done, and Omai explained it as well as he cpirid. He haj^pened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket* Thefe he produced : the balls, and the gunpowder that was to fet them in motion, were fub'' V . j| \> X X mitted '31(> CAPTAIN COOK S mitted to infpeclion, and, to fupply the defeds of his defcription, aft appeal was made to the fenfe of the (jpec- tators. The multitude had been formed, as before- mentioned, into a circle. This furnifhed Omai with a convenient ftagc for his exhibition. In the centre ot" this, the fmall quantity of gunpowder colleded from his cartridges, was properly difpofed upon the ground, and let on lire by a bit of burning wood from the oven. The fudden blaft, and loud report, the mingled flame and fmoke, that inftantly fucceeded, filled the whole aflembly with aftoniriuuent. They no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all Omai had faid. If it had not been for the terrible idea they con- ceived of the lliip's guns, from 'this fpecimen of their mode of operation, it was thought they would have detained the gentlemen all night. For Omai allured them, that if he and his companions did not return on board the fame day, i' y might exped that the captain would fire upon the ifland. And as the (hips flood in nearer the land in the evening, than they had done any time before, of which they were obferved to take great notice, they probably thought this formidable attack was meditating j and therefore they fuffered their guefts to depart j in the expedatlon however, of feeing them again on fhore the next morning. But Capt. Cook was too fenfible of the rifk they had already run, to think of repeating thi- experiment. This ifland, though never before vlfited by Europe- ans, had adtually other llrangers reliding in it. Omai, when he landed with Mr. Gore, found amongfl the crowd three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Jllands. At the diftance of about 200 leagues from thofe iflands, an immenfe unknown ocean intervening, with luch wretched fea-boats as their inhabitants are known to make ufe of, and fit only for a pafTage where fight of land is fcarcely ever loft, fuch a meeting, at fuch a place, fo accidently vifited by Captain Cook's people, may well be looked upon as one of thofe unexpedted fituati- tions with whicli the wiiters of feigned adventures love *-,-■/ to THIRD VOYAGE. 347 to lurprize their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, deferve to be recorded for their fingularity. It may be imagined, with what furprizeand fatisfadion Omai and his countrymen engaged in converfation. Their ftory is very affeding. About twenty perfons, of both fexes, had embarked on board a canoe at Ota-' iicitc, to crofs over to the neighbouring illand Ulietca. A violent contrary wind arifing, they could neither reach the latter, nor pct back to the former. Their intended paflage being a very fliort one, their (lock of provifions was fcanty, and foon exhaufled. The hard- ihips they fuflfered, while driven by the florm they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They pafled many days without any thing to eat or drink. Worn out by famine and fatigue, their numbers gradually dimi- nidied. Four men only furvived, when the canoe over- let j and then the perdition of thefc feemed inevitable. However they kept hanging by its fide, during feme of the lad days, till providence brought them within fight of the people of this illand, who immediately lent out canoes, and brought them afhore. Of the four thus fa-' ved, one was fince dead. The other three, who lived' to give this account of their mod miraculous tranfplan- tation, fpoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with ; and they were fo well fatisfied with their prefent fituation, that they refufed the offer made to" them at Omai's requeft, of giving them a paifage to their native iflands. The familiarity of manners and language had more than naturalized them to this fpot ;' and the freOi connedlions they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off, . after fuch a length of time, fufficiently account for this this illand, cannot but be confidered as a very fortunate . circumftance. Itjias proved the means of bringing to ' our knowledge a fad, not only very curious, but very inftrudive. The application of the above narrative ' X X 2 is 34^ CAPTAIK cook's is obvious. It will fcrve to explain, better than a thou- fand conjeAures of a thoufand fpeculative rcafoncrs, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the inlands of the South Sea, may have been firfl peopled i efpecially thofe that lie remote from any inha- bited continent, or from each other. Such accidents as this probably happen lequently in the Pacific Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of both lexes, were driven, by violent contrary winds, to theilleof Samal, one of the Phihpines, after being toft about at fea 70 days, and liaving performed a voyage, from an ifland called by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to to the eaft of Samal. Five of the number died of the hardships they fuffered. According to Omai's account of what he learned in converfationwith his countrymen, the manners of thole inlanders, the method of treating ftrangers, and their general habits of life, are much like thofe that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring iiles. Tlieir religi- ous ceremonies and opinions are alfo nearly the fame. From every circumftance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the natives of Wateeoo fprang, originally, from the . fame flock, which has fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all ; over the immenfc extent of the South Sea. One would ^ foppofe^, however, that they put in their claim to a more .'iUuftfious extradlion*. for Omai faid, that they dignified their ifland with the appellation of Wenooa no tc ' £atooa« that is, a land of gods ; eftecming themfelves a fort of Divinities, and poffeiTed with the fpirit of Eatooa. I^his :wild enthufialtic notion Omai feemed to approve .of :,(Qbferving, th^t there were inllances of its being entertained at Otaheite ; but that it was univerfally pre- -, vaknt among the inhabitants of Mataia, or Ofnaburgh ! Jiland. - ' : -r f Capt. Cook left Wateeoo in the morning of the 4th of April,. (leering foJ the other ifland* which,>as j^efore ; mentioned, he had difcovered its vicinity; 3ii rbRd oil ' %\\ i.i h;)Jnroqq£Tib gns.>y .o-;f/i nofr.mr/j. oftc) f)fh 'jii\nrucr/&Uiu -sd] bfi;". ,bndu oHt no ^aibn/sf io e:^.qo:f f.;l /rbi^iour sid bi^\.n0T. ''idj:bioVi:nu rjnivjjri ^>l..Hb*'^i"^* .^.Lrm ■ ^ , CHAP. THiHD VOYAGE. rift )i t»r,« fii ♦ I'r. rl 349 RefreJJiments obtained at Wenooa-ctte. — Singularity in the Natives of Hcrveij's Ijiand. — Rieh Jubina- vine Grotto at Palmer/Ions I/land. — Arrival at the Friendly Ijlands. — Amiable charaetcr of the Natives. — Defcripfion of their Pcjfons. — Tranfaetions with the Natives. — Captain's Clerk's expedient to pre- vent their Depredations. — Ojunions of the IJland' ers of a Volcano. — Different entertainments exhi- bited by the Englijh and Natives. — Curious mode ofjhaving. — Vifit of Poulaho, King of the Friendly JJlands. — Poulaho's inanimate Viceroy, — Offering 'to their Deity to deprecate Death. — Departure from [the Friendly Iflands. . , , , , » ...-^ !>>',, r? tf.fii •itodt rA^ il:;i..f:? :)./; ./•il b .?tidB»l s'i>f;')y THIS ifland, at which they arrived the next morn- ing, was uninhabited ; but the natives ot Wa- teeoo called it Wenooa-ette or Otakootaia. Here they obtained a fupply of cocoa-nuts for themfelves ; and for their cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa trees, and of the Wharra tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the Pandanus of the Eaft-Indics. This latter being of a foft, fpungy, juicy nature, the cattle eat it very well, when cut into f mall pieces; fo that it may be literally faid, that they were fed upon billet wood. rv:T»...iy;- .,..;, v.* 7M On the 6th of April, Captain Cook arrived at Her- vey's Illand, which he had difcovered in 1773, and which he was now furprized to find inhabited. In his intercourCe with the natives, he obferved that not one of them h. d adopted the mode of ornament, fo general- ly prevalent among the natives of this ocean, of pundu- ring, or tatooing their bodies; although in other rcfpeds he had the moft unequivocal proofs of their being of the fame common race. Being difappointed in the hopes of landing o/i this ifland, and the unfavourable winds, &c. having unavoidably retarded his progrefs fo L • i J much i sr>o CAPTAIN cook's much, that it was impoffible to think of doing any thing this year, in the high latitudes of the Northern Hemif- phere. Captain Cook now thought it neceflary to bear away for the Friendly Iflands. But he tirft refolved to touch at Palmerfton's Ifland, which he had difcovered in T774, and where he arrived on the 14th of April. This ifland con fifls of a group of about ten fmall uninha- bited ifiots, lying in a circular dire<5lion, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks. ; '■•>^i ■•^y>^.y> » While the captain employed his boats here to pro- cure refrefliments for his crew, he himfelf explored whatever was curioub in the external appearance of this ifland, which he obferved to be fcarcely a mile in cir- cuit, and not above three feet higher than the level of the feal It appeared to be entirely compofed of a coral land, with a fmall mixture of blackilli mould, pro- duced from rotten vegetables. Notwirhftanding this poor foil, it is covered with a variety of trees and bufhes. At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds the lake within, there was a large bed ot coral, almoft even with the lurfacc, which altbrded, perhaps, one of the moil enchanting })ro!pcds tliat nature has any where produced. Its bale was fixed to the fliore, but reached (o far in, that it could not be feen ; fo that it feemed to be fufpcnded in the water, which deepened fo fuddenly, that at the diltance of a few yards, there might be feven or eight fathon:is. Tlie iea was, at this time, quite unrulfled; and the Tun, (Lining bright, expo- fed the various lorts of coral in the moil beautiful or- der ;fome parts branching into the water with great luxuriance, others lying colleded in round balls, and in various other iigures; all which were greatly heighten- ed by fpangles of the richeil colours, that glowed irom a number of large clams, which were every where in- terfperfed. But the appearance of thele was flill infe- rior to that of the multitude of fiihes, that glided gently along, feemingly with the moil perfeft lecurity. The colours of the different iorts were the mofl beautiful that can be imagined ; the yellow, blue, red, black, &c, far exceeding any thing that art can produce. Theit various THIRD VOYAGE. 35 various formSv alfo, contributed to increafc the richnels of this fubmarine grotto, which could not be furveycd without a pkafinu tranfport, mixed, hovvever, with re- aret,' that a work fo ftupendoufly f^loquent, fliould be concealed, in a place where mankind could feldom have an opportunity of rendering the praifes juftly due to fo enchanting a Icene. With refpe^l to the animal crea- tion, the mod (ingular that Captain Cook obfervcd, were i'ome large eels, beautifully fpotted, which when follow- ed, would raife themfelves out of the water, with an open mouth, to bite their purfuers. There was alfo a brown-lpotted fiOi, about the fize of a haddock, fo tame, that inftead of fwimming ^.way, it would remain fixed, and gaze at them. Had they been in ablblute want, a fufficient fupply might have been had ; for thoufands of clams already mentioned, lluck upon the rccf^ fomc of which weighed two or three pounds. In the night between the 24th and 25th, Capt. Cook paired Savage Ifland, which he had likcwile difcovered m 1774; and, on the zSih, he got light of fome of the Friendly Iflands. Jt was not, however, till the i ft of May, that he could come to anchor, at the illand of Annamooka, where he refur.ed the very ihmc ftation,. which he had occupied three years before ; and, pro- bably, almoll in the lame place where '^falman, theJirlt difcoverer of this, and fome of the neighbourino iflands, anchored in 1643. f - - - * > n-'? i'()o;> The Friendly Iflands form a very extend ve Archipe- lago. The natives reckoned up 150 of them, making ule of bits of leaves to afccrtain their number. But only lixty-one of thele have their proper places and names marked in Captain Cook's chart of the Friendly Iflands : for he was obliged to leave it to future navi- gators, to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean, the exadt iituation and fize of near an hundred others, which he had not an opportu- nity to explore. Among thele iflands he continued about two or three months ; during which time he lived with the natives in the molt cordial friendlhip. Some accidental differences it is true now and then happened, , ,- owing I iiiinnHniwlMOIH !5- CAPTAIN COOK S i I owing to their propenfity to thieving. But thefe were never attended with any fatal confequences : on the contrary, few on board the (hips left their friends here without regret. Nor will this appear wonderful, when we learn the amiable charaifter which Captain Cook has given of thefe people. '. ' - • ' * -■> "'^i< •> ' < ■ **" Their countenances, fays he, very remarkably ex- press the abundant mildnefs, or good nature, which they poflefs ; and arc entirely free from that favage keennels which marks nations in a barbarous ftate. One would, indeed, be apt to fancy, that if they had been bred up under the fevereft reftridions, to acquire an afpedt to fettled, and fuch a command of their paffions, as well as fteadincfs in their condudt. But they are, at the fame time, frank, cheerful, and good humoured j though fometimes, in the prefence of their chiefs, they put oa a degree of gravity, and fuch a ferious air, as becomes ftiff and awkward, and has an appearance of referve. "' Their peaceable difpolition is fufficiently evinced, from the friendly Teception all flrangers have met with, who have vifited them. Inftead of offering to attack them openly, or clandeilinely, as has been the cafe with moft of the inhabitants of thefe feas, they have never appeared, in the fmallefl degree, hoftile j but, i the contrary, like the moft civilized people, have courted an intercourfejwith their vifitors, by bartering, which is the only medium that uniles all nations in a fort of friendthip. Perhaps, no nation in the world traffic with more honefty and lefs diltrull, we could always fafely permit them to examine our goods, and to hand them about, one to another i and they put the fame? confidence in us. If either party repented of the bar- gam, the goods were re-exchanged with mutual confent and good-humour. Upon the whole, they ieem poffef' fed of many of the moft excellent qualities that adorn the human mind) fuch as induftry, ingenuity, perfever- ance, affability, and, perhaps, other virtues which oar ftiort ftay with them might prevent our obfcrving. ^ '" *' The only defe<5l fullying their charai^ter, that we know of, is a propenfity to thieving j to which, we ; . -y i • found. THIRD VOYAGE. 353 found, thofe of all ages, and both fexes addi6led ; and to an uncommon degree. It fhould, however, be confidered, that this exceptionable part of their condu£t feemed to exift merely with refpeft to us ; for in their general intercourfe with one another, I had reafon to think, that thefts do not happen more frequently (perhaps lefs lo) than in other countries, the diihoneft prafiices of thofe worthlefs individuals are not fuppofed to authorize any indifcriminate cen- fure on the whole body of the people. Great allow- ances ftiould be made for the foibles of thefe poor natives of the Pacific Ocean, whofe minds were overpowered with the glare of obje£ls, equally new to them, as they were captivating. Stealing, amongft the civilized and enlightened nations of the world, may well be confidered as denoting a charafter deeply ftained with moral turpitude, with avarice unreftrain- cd by the known rules of right, and with profligacy producing extreme indigence, and negletting th(i means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other iflands which we vifited, the thefts, lb frequently com- mitted by the natives, of what we usd brought along with us, may be fairly traced to lefs culpable motives. They feemed to arife, folely, from an intenfe curiofity or delire to poflefs fomething which they had not been accullomed to before, and belonging to a fort of people fo diiFerent from themfelves. And, perhaps, if it were poflible, that a fet of beings, feemingly as ' fuperjor in our judgment, as we are in theirs, fliould appear amongft us, it might be doubted, whether our natural regard to juftice would be to reftrain manv from falling into this error." " The natives ot the Friendly Iflands, ** fays Capt. Cook," feldom exceed the common ftature (though we have meafured fome, who were about lix foot ;) but are very ftrong, and well made j efpcciaily as to their limbs. They are generally broad about the Ihoulders , and though the mufcular difpolition of the n^en, which feems a co.nfequence of much a£tion, rather conveys the appearance of fueugth than of ^K,- ^ y beauty, 354 CAPTAIN COOK S i ' beauty, there are feveral to be feen, who are really handfome. Their features are very various ; iafomucb that it is fcarcely pollible to fix on any general like- nefs, by which to chara6terize them, unlefs it be a fulhiefb at the point of the nofe, which is very com- mon. But, on the other hand, we met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many genuine Roman nofes amongft them. Their eyes and teeth were good ; but the laft neither fo remarkably white, nor fo well fet as is often found among Indian nations ; though, to balance that, few of them have any un- common thicknefs about the lips, adefe6tas frequent as the other perfecHon. *' The women are not fo much diftinguiihed from the men by their features, as by their general form, which is, for the molt part, deftitute of that ftrong fiefliy firmnefs that appears in the latter. Though the features of ibme are fo delicate, as not only to be a true index of their fex, but to lay claim to a con- fiderable fliare of beauty and exprellion, the rule is, by no means, fo general as in other countries. But, at the fame time, this is frequently the molt excep- tionable' part ; for the bodies and limbs of moft of the females are well proportioned ; and fome, abfo- lutely, perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the molt remarkable diftinttion in the women, is the uncommon fmallnefs and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with the finelt in Europe. " Their general colour is a cait deeper than the copper brown ; but feveral of the men and women have a true olive complexion ; and fome of the laft are even a great deal fairer ; which is probably the effect of being lefs expofed to the fun ; as a tendeiicy to corpulence, in a few of the principal peopV feems to be the confequence of a more indolent nfe. It is alfo among the laft, that a foft clear ikin is moft frequently obferved. Amongft the bulk of the people, the ikin is, moft commonly, of a dull hue, with fome degree of roughnefs, efpecially the parts that are not covered ^ THIRD VOYAGE. S55 covered ; which, perhaps, may be occafioned by fome cutaneous difeafe. We faw a man and a boy at Hapaee, and a child at Annamooka, pertettly white. Such have been found amongft all black nations ; but, I apprehend, that their colour is rather a difeafe, than a natural phaenomenon.*' Captain Cook firft went on (hore at Annamooka, the chief of which ifland, Toubou conducted him and Omai to his houfe, fituated on a pieafant fpot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grafs-plot fur- lounded it, which, he gave them to underftand, was for the purpofe of cleaning their feet, before they went within doo^s. The floor of this houfe was covered with mats ; and no carpet in the moft ele- gant Englilh drawing-room could be kept neater. But Capt, Cook found a more ftrenuous -friend in Taipa, one of the chiefs, who had before vifited the /liips in their firft intercourfe with the canoes that came off from fliore. He feemed to be the only aftive perfon about them ; and, in order to be near the party that had landed, in the night as v.'ell as the day, had a houfe brought on men's ihoulders, a fulL quarter of a mile, and placed clofe to the flied which the party occupied. ^m. -• • iii- itt >- -Kdi f -'ifii Befides the operations of making bay for the cattle, and filling the watcr-cafks, a party was em- ployed in cutting wood. The greateft plenty of this laft article being a-breaft of the Hiips, in a fituation the moft convenient for getting it onboard, it was natural to make choice of this. The trees here were a fpecies of pepper, called faitanoo by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of fo corrofive a nature, that it raifed blilU'rs in the lOcin, and injure^! the eyes of the workmen. Thoy were, therefore, obliged to procure the wood from another quarter. Soon after they were vifited by a great chief, from the principal ifland called Tongataboo. This chief,' whofe name was Feenau, Taipa was pleafed to intro- duce as king of all the Friendly li)ands, a character, on ?)7u jf.rti yjiiuj .rtr y v 2 -^qV' .^i*mfi!j.' althouoh 556 CAPTAIN C Ok's although reaiJy a man of great confequence, he found it expedient to lay ailde. In the mean time, great mutual civilities paiTed between Feenou and Captain Cook. We have already remarked the general propenfity to thieving in the natives of thefe iflands. Even fome of the chiefs did not think the profeflion beneath them. One of them was detected carrying out of the Ihip, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the fpun-yam winch ; for which Capt. Cook fentenced him to receive a dozen laflies, and keep him confined till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this, he was not troubled with thieves of rank. Their fervants, however, were (till employed in this dirty work ; and upon them a flog- ging feemed to make no great impreffion, than it would have done upon the main-maft. ••; On the 14th of May, Capt. Cook left Annamooka, and fleered along a clufter of fmall iflands ; raoft of them entirely clothed with trees, amangfl: which were many coca-palms ; and each forming a profpect like a beautiful garden placed in the fea. To heighten this, the ferene weather they now had, contributed very much ; and the whole might fupply the im- agination with the idea of fome fairy land realized. After noticing Toofoa, a volcanic ifle, at the diftance ot two leagues, the fmoke of which they faw feveral times, they arrived on the 17th, at the iflands, called by the general name of Hepaee. The Friendly Iflanders have fome fuperftitious notions about the volcano upon Toofoa, which they fay is an Otooa, or Divinity, "'t'-b "'-J trjiDUbciq 'jvy/j <;')lofi i"rjrnf..v •:)' Capt. Cook's reception at Hapaee was the moft honourable that can be imagined. The chiefs, not content with munilicence, entertained their visitors with a variety of diverfions ; among which were lingle combats with clubs, and wreftling and boxing matches, in the latter of which, even the women lignalizedthemfelves. Feenou bavin gexprefled a defirc to fee the marines go through their military exercifcy- ........ the m THIRD VOYAGE. 357 the Captain ordered them all afliore ; and, after they had performed various evolutions, and fired feveral voliies, with which the numeroUvS fpe6tators fcemed well pleafed, the chief, in his turn, entertained them with an exhibition, which was performed with a dexterity and exa6tnefs, far furpalling the fpecimeii jiift given of our military exercifes. It was a kind of dance, fo intirely different from any thing Captain Cook had ever feen, that, as he himfclf obferves, no defcription can give an adequate idea of it. It was performed by men ; and 105 perfons bore their parts in it. Each had in his hand an inlfrument neatly made, Ciaped like a paddle, two feet and a half long, with a fmall handle, and a thin blade j fo that it was very light. With thefe inftruments they made many and various flouriflies, each of which was ac- compliflied with a different attitude of the body, or a different movement. At firft, the performers ranged themfelves in three lines, and, by various evolutions, each man changed his ftation in fuch a manner, that thofewhohad been in the rear, came in the front. Nor did they long remain in the fame pofi- tion, but thefe changes were made by pretty quick tranfitions. Atone time they extended themfelves' in one line ; they then formed themfelves into a femi circle ; and laftly, into two fquare columns. While this lalt movement was executing, one of them ad vanced, and performed an antic dance before the Captain, which terminated the whole \i y,i The mufical inftruments confifted of two drum^ • or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which fome varied notes were produced. The dancers, how- ever, did not not feem to be much aflilled by thefe founds, but by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the performers joined at the fame time. Their font's were not deftitute of pleafing melody ; and all their correfponding motions were executed with fuch ikill that the numerous body of dancers feemed to a6l as if they were one great machine. " It was the opinion ♦f every one of us," fays Capt. Cook, " that fuch a 5 =.■ performance 358 CAPTAIN cook's performance would have met with univerfal applaufe on the European theatre; and it (o far exceeded any at- tempt we made to entertain them, that they Teemed to pique themlelves upon the luperiority they had over us. As to our mufical inftruments, they held none of them in the leall el\eem, except the drum ; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our French- horns, in particular, Teemed to be held in great con- tempt.'* Captain Cook defirous to give them a more favour- able idea ot the Englifli amufements, and to leave their minds fully imprelfed with a deep fenle of our attain- ments, played off fome fire-works in the evening, mod of which lucceeded fo perfectly, as to anfwer the end he had in view. The water and fky-rockets in particu- lar, pleafed and aftonilhed them beyond all conception j and the fcale was now turned in ourfbivour. .; This feemed only to furni(h them with an additi- onal motive to proceed to fre(h exertions of their fm- ^alar d'^xterity ; and our fire- works were no fooner ended, than a fucceflion of dances, which Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As a prelude to them, a band of mufic, or chorus of eighteen men, leated thcmfelves before us, in the centre of the circle, compofed by the numerous fpedators, the area of which was to be tlie fcene of the exhibitions. Four or five of this band, had pieces of large bamboo, from three to five or fix feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a vertical pofition, the upper end open, but the other end cloied by one of the joints. With this clofe end, the performers kept conftantly (triking the ground, though flowly, thus producing different notes, according to the different lengths of the inflruiiients, but all of them of the hollow or bafe fort; to counteract which, a perfon kept flriking quickly, and with two (licks, a piece of the fame lubftance, fplit, and laid along the ground, and, by that means, furnifhing a tone, as acute, as thofe produced by the others were grave. The reft of the band, as well as thofe who performed upon the ban^jboos, fung a flow and THIRD VOYAGE. 359 and loft air, which fo tempered the harfher notes of the above inllruments, that no bye-ftander, however accuftomec] to hear the moft perfect and varied modu- lation of fweet founds, could not avoid contefTing the vaft power, and pleafing effed of this fimple har- mony. The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women entered the circle. Moft of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the crimfon' flowers of the Chinefe ife, or others ; and many of them had ornamented lueir perfons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their faces to- wards it, and began by lingingafoft air, to which re- fponfes were made by the chorus in the fame tone, and thefe were repeated alernately. All this while, the women accompanied their long with feveral very graceful motions of their hands towards their faces, and in other dire<5lions at the lame time, making con- ftantly a ftep forward, and then back again, with one- leg, while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the aflembly, fung fome time, and re- treated flowly in a body, to that part of the circle which was oppofite the hut where the principal fpefta- tors fat. After this, one of them advances from each fide, meeting and paffing each other in the front, and continui»g their progrels round, till they came to the reft. On which two advanced from each fide, by in- tervals, till the whole number had again formed a circle about the chorus. Their manner of dancing was now changed to a' quicker mealiire, in which they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapping their hands, and fnapped their iingers, repeating fome words in conjunction with the chorus. Towards the end, as the quicknefs of the niufic irtcreafed, their gcftures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity ; and fome of their motions, periiaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather indecent. Though this part of the performance, moil probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ''^^-^*'-' ' ideas 360 CAPTAIN COOK S ideas, but merely to difplay the aftonifhing variety of their movements. To this grand female ballet, fucceeded a variety of other dances, in which the men bore a principal part. In fome of thefe the dancers increafed their motions to a prodigious quicknefs, (haking their heads from Ihoulder to (boulder, with fuch force, that a fpedlator, unac- curtomed to the fight, would fuppofe they ran a rilk of diflocating their necks. Their difcipline was admirable; and, in no inftance was . it more remarkable than in the fudden tranfitions they fo dexteroufly made, from the ruder exertions and harfli founds, to the foftellairs, and moft gentle movements. While Capt. Cook was at Hapaee, he obferved a woilian fliaving a child's head, with a (bark*s tooth, ftuck into the end of a piece of (lick. She firfl wet the hair with a rag, dipped in waterj applying the in- ftrument to that part which ftie had previoufly foaked. The operation feemed to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken off as clofe as if one of our razors had been employed. Capt. Cook tried one of thefe inftruments upon himfeif, and found it a good fuccedaneum. But the men have another contrivance when they fhave their beards. They take two fhells, one of which they placed under a fmall part of the beard, and with the other applied above, they fcrapc that part off. In this manner they are able to fhave very clofe. On the 27th of May, Capt. Cook had an opportu- nity of difcovering that Feenou was not the king of the Friendly Iflands, but only a fubordinate chief j by a prudent regulation in their government, the natives have an officer over the police, or fonTething like it. This department, when we were amongft them, was adminiflered by Feenou; whofe bufinefs it was to pu- nilh offenders, whether againft the flate, or againft in- dividuals. He was alfo General iflimo, and command- ed the warriors, when called out upon fervice. The king took fome pains to inform us of Feenou's ofiice> and among other things told us, that if he himfeif ,, ; fliould THIRD VOYAGE. 361 fhould 'ccome a haJ man, Fernou would kill him. Wf^at 1 underdo' 111 ot beinf/ a bad man, was, that if he did nr>t g./Y'-in according to law, Feem^u .A'ould be ordered, b* the other gmt men, or by the people at large, to put hi'ii foc^ath. The ntfxt m'>Tvng the kinq; came on hoard, and brought as a prelrrnt t(i th^* ra;)tain, one of their caps, made, or at Ica^ covered, wjth red feathers. Thefc caps were much lought aft'*"' by the fliip's company j as they knew thcv w.,uld be hrarhlv valued at Otaheite. Bat though very large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for fale ; which fliewed they were no lefs valuable in the eftimation of the people here. Tliefe caps, or rather bonnets, are compoCed of the fail feathtrs of the tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parroqueis wrought wpon them, or jointly with them. They arc mafh fo as to tic upon the forehead without any ciown, and have the form of a femicircle, whofe radms is 18 or 20 inches. Sometime after the Captain (leered for Tongataboo. While he was plying up to the harbour, the king kept failing rounc* them in his canoe. There were at the lame time, a great many fmall canoes about the fhips. Tvvoof thefe, whtch could not get out of the way of his royal veffei, he ran quite over, with as little con- cern, as if they had been bits of wood. At Tongataboo Captain Cook's reception wis no lefs hofpitable than it had been at Hepace ; grand entertainments of fongs nnd dances, with exhibitions of wreftling and boxing being fucceflTivelv given, 'nr;- ■■-■ v^j ■^- itn jo 7:1:,. Orte day the king came on board the Refolution, and brought with him his Ion, a youth about 12 years of ige. The king dined with the captain, but the fon, tliough prefent, was not allowed to fit down with him. ft Wiis very convenient to have him for a gueft ; for whec he '.vas prefent, every other native was excluded i whercis, if neither he nor Feenou were on board, the in- ferior chiefs would be very importunate to be of our dining party. The king was very foon reconciled to our manner of cooking. But ftill, we believe, he dined 16 Z z with IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A % 1.0 I.I 11.25 la ■;» 12.: •» ... I£ I «*l 2.0 m 1.4 -► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) 872-4503 ^ \ qv ^\ 4^ <> •Vl?^ ^ Jli ^ ■•'■ .^^^. ^•>,% £. ' f I ,362 CAPTAIN cook's with us more for the fake of what we gave him tod'^-nk than for what we fet before him to. eat ; for he had taken a Hking to our wine, would. empty his bottle as well as mofl men, and was cheerful over it. : But not- wilhftanding this friendly intercourfe, Capt. Cook once thought proper to put the king, hi^ brother, Freenou, and fome other chiefs, under arreft, till a kid, two tur- key cocks, and fome other things, that had been ftolen, Were reftored. This expedient was fuccefsful ; and though, at tirfl, it made them Hiy, it did not diminifli the friendfliip with whicii they dill deported themfclves. '"' On the 17th of July, Capt. Cook fet fail from Mid- dleburgh or Eaoo, wliich was the laft.iiland he vifited, .during his intercourfe with the natives of this Archipe- lago, and witli a light breeze at S. E. he now (leered for the Society Iflands. The time employed among the natives of the Friendly Iflands was not thrown away. We expended very little of ou; fea provifions j fubfiftirig in general, upon the produce of the iflands^ whilje we ftaid j and carrying away with us a quantity of provifions fufficient to lafl till our arrival at another flatioh, where we could depend upon a frefli lupply. We was not forry, Befides, to have an opportunity of bettering the condition of thefe good people, by leav- ing feveral very ufeful animals among them j and, at the fame time, thofe defigned for Otaheite, received frefli flirength in the paftures of Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received, by touching here, were very great; and we had the ad- ditional fatisfadion to reiiedt, that they were received without retarding one moment, the profecution of the great objed of our voyage; the feafon for proceeding to the North, being, as has already been obferved, loft, before we took the rcfolution of bearing away for thefs iflands. div » • CHAP. T '■ THIRD VOYAGE. > r :• .; -! •. - y :. ^ CHAP. IIL V . : i' /y/fl/if/ ofToobojiai dif covered — Arrival ot OfaJieite — Omai's reception — Interview ivilh IFa/ieladooa, the chief of Tiai'dhoo — Onuii's imprudent condufi — Girls dre/fed to bring a prejenl — Omai's zvar canoe -M)loo's prefent ami mejfage to the king of Great Britain — Departure from Otaheite^ andvifit toEimeo — Conclufion of the hijiorxj of Omaii and of tlie two New Zealand j/outlis. ON the 9th of Auguft, 1777, Capt. Cook dlfco-. vered the fmall ifland Toobouai, lying i-n the lat. of 23 deg. 25 min. S. and in 210 deg.*37 mm. E. long. But as the natives who approached the (hips in their ca- noes, could not be perfuaded to come on board, and the Captain had no inducement to land there, he pro- ceeded on his voyage. ' .. ■ -' Pn the 1 2th ot Aug. helkw Maitea, one of the So- ciety- Iflands, and foon after Otaheite. We Ihall now confine ourfelves chrefly to the reception which Omai met with amongll his countrymen, to fomeof the mod remarkable occurrences in Capt. Cook's intercourfe with the friendly natives. When we firli came near the ifland, feveral canoes came off to the Ihip, each conduced by two or three men. iBut, as they were c\)mmon fellows Omai took no particular notice of theai, nor they of him. They did not, even feem to perceive, that he was one of their countrymen, althv-)' they converfed v;ith him for fome time. At length a chief, whom I had known beibre, named Ootee, and Om.ii's brother-in-law, who chanched to be at this corner of the ifland, and tliree or four more perfons, all of whom knew Omai, before he embarked with Capt. Furneaux. came on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or llriking in their meeting. On the contrary, there feemed to be a per- fcifl indifference on both lides, till Omai, having taken his J 364 CAPTAIN cook's his brother clown into the cabin, he opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being prefently known, amongfl the reft of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly fpeak to Omai before, now begged that they might be tayos (friends) and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a prefent of red feathers j and Ootee, by way of return, fent rihore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but his property, they were in love with. Had he not thewn to them his treafure of red feathers, which is the commodity in greateft eftimation at the illand, 1 queflioned much whether they would have be- llowed even a cocoa nut upon him. Such was Omai's reception amongft his countrymen. 1 own, 1 never ex- pefted it would be otherwife ; but ftill, I was in hopes, that the valuabl;? cargo of prefents, with which the liberahty of his friends in England had loaded him, would be the means of raifing him into confequence, and of making him refpefted, and even courted by the fiift perlons throughout the extent of the Society Jllands. This could not but have happened, had he conduced himlelf with any degree of prudence. But, inftead of it, I am forry to fay, that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of thofe who wifhed hiip well, and fuffered himfeif to be duped by every defign- ing knave. > . ,• • •,. : .: r The important news, of red feathers being on board our fliips, having been conveyed on fhore by Omai's friends, day had no looner begun to break, next morning, then we were furrounded by a multitude of ca- noes, crowded with people, bringing hogs to market. At firft, a quantity of feathers, no: greater than what might be got from a tom-tit, would purchafe a hog, of forty or fifty pounds weight. But as almoft every body in the fliips was poU'efled of fome of this precious ar- ticle of trade, it fell, in its value, above five hundred percent, before night. However, even then, the ba- lance was much in cor favour j and red feathers con- tra. * tinued THIRD VOYAGE. 365 tinued to preferve their fuperiority over every other commodity, home of the natives would not part with a hog, unlets they received an ax in exchange; but nails, beads, and other trinkets, which, during our for- mer voyages, h-iJ lo great a run at this illand, were now (b much cierpiled, that few would deign to look at theirj. - ■>., In the morning of the 13th, Captain Cook came to anchor in a bay called Oheitepeha. Soon after, Omai's filler came on board to fee himj and the Captain wa« happy to obfcrve, that, much to the honour of each, their meeting was marked with exprefiions of the moll tender affetlion. After this moving Icene, O uai and the Captain weftt afliore. Here, the attention of the former was foon drawn to an old woman,- the filler of his fnother. She was already at his feet, and had be- dewed them plentifully with tears of joy. The Captain left him with the old lady, encircled by a number of people, in order to go and take a view of a houle and crofs eredled by tiie Spaniards. When he returned, he found Omai holding forth to a large company; and it was with fome difficulty he could be got away to ac- company the Captain on board. Captain Cook, it feems, had found, from the natives, that two Spanilh fliipsfrom Lima had twice put into Oheitepeha Bay, fince his lad vifit in 1774. They had left fome hogs, dogs, goats, a bull, and a ram, on (bore. The firll time they came, they built a houfe, and left four men behind them, car- rying away four 0'" the natives. In about ten months, the fame (hips returned, bringing back two of theifland- ers, the other two having died at Lima. After a Ihort Hay, they took away their own people, but left the houfe ftanaing. This was fituated at a fmall diftancc from the beach. The wooden materials, of which it was compofed^ feemed to have been brought, ready prepared, to fet up occafionally ; for all the planks were numbered. It was divided into two fmall rooms; and, in the inner one, were a bench, a table, a bedftead, fome old hats, and other trifles, of which the natives feemed to be very careful, as alfo of the houfe itfelf, which «6^ CAPTAIN COOlc's which had fuffereclno hurt from the weather, a flicd having been built over it. There were fcut ties all jiround, which fcrved as air-holes; and perhaps, they were alii.) meant to fire from, with mufquets, if ever it fliould have been found necefiliry. At ibme diltance, ilood a wooden crols, on the tri^niVerle part of which was -cut, : CHRISTUS VINCIT. t-i And on the pcrj)endicular part was," . '' ' ' ^ . Carolus III. IMPERAT.^1774. On thet)ther fide of the poft, Captain Cook took care to prefcrve tlie memory of the prior vifits of th^ Knglifh, by infcribing, ' ' ^ ! ., tt .iF^ Georgius Tertius rex, . .•';.4 ' *^' Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777. Near the foot of this crofs was the grave of the Com- modore of tl.c two Ihips, who died here, while they lay in the bay, the firft time. The Spaniards fcem to have taken great pains to ingratiate themfelves with the in- habitants, who, on every occafion, mentioned them with- the ftrongeft expreffionsof efteem and veneration. The former, however, did not fucceed in their.attempts to depreciate the charader of the Englifli. . One of the four perfons whom they left behind, and whom the na- tives called Mateema, made himfeif very popular. He took uncommon pains to fludy their language, that he might be enabled to imprefs their minds with the moil exalted ideas of the great nefs of the Span ifh Monarchy, and make them think meanly of the Englilh. He even went fo far to as affure them, that we no longer exilled as an indepcndant nation; that Pretane was only a Imall iiland which they, (the Spaniards) had entirely deitroy-. cd; and that as lor Cuptain Cook, they had yiet with bim at fea,'and, wiih aiew Ihot, had " _ .,,i !; * , ... After the hurry of this vifit was over, thd king, tncf the whole royal family, accompanied us on board, fol- lowed by feveral canoes, laden with all kind of provi- fions, in quantity fufScient to have ferved the compa- nies of both riiips for a week. Each of the family .^ owned, or pretended to own, a part ; fo that we llafd jv "^' prefent THIRD VOYAGE. 369 prefcnt from every one of them; and every one of them had a feparate prcfent in return from me ; which was the great objed in view. Soon after, the king's mother, who had not been prefent at the firfl interview, came on board, bringing with her a quantity of pro- vifions and cloth, which flie divided between me and Omai. For, although he was but Httle noticed at firft, by his countrymen, they no fooner gained the know- ledge of his riches, than they began to court his friend- (hip. I encouraged this as much as I could ; for it was my wi(h to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave all my European animals at this iiland, 1 thought he would be able to give fome inQrudions about the ma- nagement of them, and about their ufe. Befides, I knew and faw, the farther he was from his native ifland, he would be the better refpedted. But, uofor- tunately, poor Omai rejeded my advice, and conducted himfelf in fo imprudent a manner, that he foon loft the friendship of Otoo, and of every per (on of note in Otaheite. He aflbciated with none but vagabonds and ftrangers, whofe fole views were to plunder him. And, if I had not interfered, they would not have left him a fingle article worth carrying from the ifland. This neceflarily drew upon him the ill-will of the prin- cipal chiefs i who found that they could not procure from any one in the fliips, fucli valuable articles of pre^ fents, as Omai had bellowed on the loweft of the peo- ple, his companions. Our friend Omai got one good thing at this ifland, for the many good things he gave away. This was a very fine double failing canoe, completely equipped, and fit for Tea. Some time before, I made up for him, a luit of Engliih colours ; but he thought thefe too va- luable to be ufed at this time ; and patched up a par- ^cel of colours, fuch as flag^and pendants, to the num- "*ber of ten or a dozen, which he fpread on different parts of his vefTel, all at the fame time ; and drew to- gether as many people to look at her, as a man of war would, drelTed in an European port. Thefe ftreamers of Omai's were a mixture of Engliih, French, Span ilh^ 16 Aaa and,, $yO CAPTAIN COOK S and Dutch, which were all the European colours that lie had feen. When 1 was laft at this ifland, I gave to Otoo an Enelifli jack and pendant, and to To' irfnurf ^ v^q orv^, ..' . ,... •; The THIRD VOYAGE. 371 The frequent vifits wc have lately paid to this ifland, feem to have created a full perfuafion, that the inter- courfe will not be difcontinucd. It was (Iriftly enjoined to me by Otoo, to requcft, in his name, the i^aree rahie noPretane, to fend him, by the next fliips, red fea- thers, and the birds that produce them ; axes, half a dozen mufquets, with povydtr aii>J ihot ; and, by no means .to forget horfes. In thcmorning of ti\c 30th of September, Captaia Cook left Otaheite ; and, the feme evening, arrived at Eimeo. Wei:e, ,the Igls of a gnat, which was floleji, for- ced (him into an hoilile ejcpedition ?icrofs the iflund ; nor was this anipial (at that conjundure of great iinportance to him) given up, till Ibme houfcs and canoes were burnt. On the nth qf October, he ftccred for Hua- heine, where it was his intention finally to fettle Omai, and where he arrived the next morning. Our arrivajl here, brought all the principal people of the ifland to our ihips. This was juft what 1 wiQied, as it was high time to think of fettlingOmai; and the prefence^of thefe chiefs, I gviei^ed, would enable me to do it in the mofl: fatisfadto.ry manner. He now feemed to have an incli- nation loeftabliQi himfelf at Uiietea; and if he and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing that plan to bear, 1 fliould have had no objeftion to adopt it. His (ather had been difpoUqflcdby the men of Bolabola, when^ they conquered Ulietca, of fome land in that ifland; and I made no doubt of getting it reftored to the fon in ,an amicable manner. For that purpofe it was neceiiary, that he fliould be of good terms with thofe who novv >yere mafters of the ifland j but he was too great , a patriot to liften to any fuqh thing ; And was vain eupugh to fupppfe, that I would reinffate him in his forfeited lands by fqrice. This tniide it i(lipcrfl|bfe to, fj;£ thiol .^:Ulietea, and pointed put to jmefiqahelne as the, proper . place. J, therefore, refolved to avail my*- leif.of.^be presence pf.lhe chief. (Tjenqf theifland> An^ to.{Mke t;lxis;propo(al to Ithw* V ^y--'l> J J*. ^'r' \ ' After >tbe , hurry 9f.^be morning was over, we got |*C3dy to pay a formal vifit to Tairectareea, meanmg ■r Aa a 2 then 37i CAPTAIN COOK S then to introduce this bufinefs. Omai dreiTed himfrlf very properly on the occafion; and prepared a handfomc prefent for the chief himleU and another for his Eatooa. Indeed, after lie had got clear of the gang that fur- rounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with fuch pru- dence as to gain ic^pcdV. Our landing drew moft of our vifitors from the fliips ; and they, as well as thof^ that were on fliore, aflcmbled in a large houfe. The concourfe of people, on this occafion, was very great i and, amongfi: them, there appeared to be a greater pro- portion of perfonable men and women than we had ever fcen in one aflembly at any one oi thefe iflands. Not only the bulk of the people fecnied, in general, much (louter and fairer than thole of Gtalieite, but there was alfo a much greater number of men who appeared ♦o be of confequence, in poportion to the extent of the liland -, mod of whom had exadly the corpuleiit appear- ance of the chiefs of Wateeo. We waited fome time for Tareetareea, as I would do nothing till the Earec rahie came j but when he appeared, I found that his prefence might have been dilpenfed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who flood at a little diilance from this circle of great men, began with making his offering to the gods, confilling of red feathers, cloth, &c. Then followed another offering, which was to be given to the gods by the chiefs ; and after that, feveral other fmall pieces and tufts of red feathers were prefented. Each article was laid .before one of the company, who, 1 underftood, was a prieft, and was delivered with a let ij)eech or prayer, fpoken by one of Omai's friends, who fat by him, but moftly di<5ated by himfelf. In thefe prayers, he did not forget his friends in England, n6v thofe who had brought him r^ve back. The Earee rahie no Pretane^ Lord Sandwich, Tdotc, Tatee, Cook and Clerk, were meiitioned in every one of them. When Omai*s oflferings and praycwiwere finifhed, the prieft took each article, iti the fiilie4)rder in which it had . been laid before bim, ahd'affte^ ^f^t* ing a pra,yer, lent it to the morai ; whid^ as'Omsti told / IT) THIRD VOYAGE. 3^3 US, was at a great didancc, other vile the offerings would have been made there. - i i .- Thefe rehgious ceremonies having been performed, Omai fat down by Lie, and we entered upon bufinels, by giving the young chief my prelent, and receiving his m return ; and, all things conlidered, they were li- beral enough on both iides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, as to the manner of carrying on the intcrcourfe betwixt us; and 1 pointed out the mifchiev- ous confequences that would attend their robbing us, as they had done during my former vifits. Omai's efta- biiihmcnt was then propofed to the aflembled chiefs. He acquainted them, that he had been carried to our country, where he was well receivcu l>y the great king and his earees, and treated with every mark of regard and affeftion, while he ftaid amongft us j that he had been brought back again, enriched by our liberality, v/lfh a variety of articles, which would prove very ule- ful to his countrymen ; and that, befides the two hor- fes which were to remain with him, fevcral other new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which will foon multiply, and furnilh a fuificient number for the ufe of the illands in the neighbourhood. He then fignificd to them my earnell rcquclt, in return for all my friendly offices, that they would give him a piece of land, to build a houfe upon, and to raife provilions for himfelfand fervants ; adding, that, if this could not be obtained for him in Huahcine, either by gift or by pur- chafe, I was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there. ' • Perhaps I have here made a better fpeTech for' my friend, than he adually delivered ; but thefe were the topics J didated to him. i obferved, that what he con- cluded with, aboi»1i carrying him to Uiietea, feemed to meet the approbation of all the chiefs; and 1 inflantly faw the rcafpti!. Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly flattered himfelf, that 1 meant to. ufe force in re- flcwiiiig him to. his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly^' and without any authority from me, on tjiis fubjeft, to fomc of the prefent aflembly ; who " ' dreamed mmMtnMi 374 CAPTAIN cook's xifcaaied of nodiing lefs tban a iioflile iijyafioa of Ulietea, and of being aflifted by me to drive the Rolabola men rOut of that iiliind. it was of confeqqence, therefore, .that I Ihould undeceive them ; and, in order to tliis, 1 fignified, in the moljt peremptory mafnner, that I tvei- -tber would aflift them infuch an.en,texprize, nor fuffer Jt to be put in execution,, while I -was in their feas ; and that, if Omai fixed himfeif in Ulietea, he muft •be introduced as a iriend, sm^ not forced upon the JBolabola naGn as fclvelr -conqueror. '' ■ •• This declaration gave a new turn to the fentiments of.the council. One of the chiefs immediately expref- jfed biralelf to.this effed: : That the whole ifland .of Hua- ^heine, and every thing in.it, were .mine j and thjit, .there- ifore, I might giye what portion of it I pleafed to my ifciend. Omai, who, like. the reft of his .countrymen, /eldom fees things beyond the prefent moment, was •greatly pleafed to hear this ; tiliinking, no doubt, that -1 Ihould be very liberal, and giv^ him enough. But to offer what it would have been improper to accept, I.con- ifidered as offering nothing at all, and therefore, I now defired, that they .would not only affign the particular jfpot, but alfo the exa of THIRD VOYAGE. 375 of fereral other vegetable articles ; a-l) of which I had the fatisfaftion of obfcrving td be in a flourifhing ftate before I left the ifland. Omai now began ferioufly to attend to his own af- fairs, and repented heartily of his ill-judged prodiga- lity while at Otaheite. He found at Huaheine, a bro-» ther, a fifter, and a brother-in-law, the fifter being married. But thefe did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. 1 was forry, however, to difcbver that, though they were too honeft to do him any injury, they wert of too little corifequence in the Ifland to do him any good. A man who is richer than hi$ neighbour, is fure to be envied, by numbers who wifli to fee him brought down to theif own level. And what was his principal danger, he was to be placed in the very fingular fitua- tion of being the only rich man in the community to which he was to belong. And having by a fortunate connexion with us, got into his poflelTion ar) accumu- lated quantity of a fpecies of treafure which none of his countrymen could create by any art orindudry of his own ; while all coveted a fliare of this envied wealth, as it was natural to apprehend, that all would be ready to join in :.'ttempting to ftrip its fole proprietor. . :• To prevent this, if poflTible, I advifed him to make a proper diftribution of fome of his movables, to two or three of the principal chiefs ; who, being thus gra- tified themfclves, might be induced to take him under their patronage, and protecl him from the injuries of others. He promifed to follow my advice, and I heard, with iatisfaftion, before 1 failed, that this prudent ftep had been taken. I took every opportunity of notifying to the "uihabitants, that it Was my intention to return to this ifland again, after being abfent the ufual time ; and that if I did not find Omai in the fai^e ftate of fecurity in which I now left him, all thofe whom f fhould theft difcover, td have been his enemies, might expedl to fee} J.he weight of my refentment. '-A/c, ^niAy.m i f .' hi G . ^--ilyfun ,.'^\cji-^F. . ^iTj .e^itUV "A. Omai-§ 376 CAPTAIN cook's Omai's houfe being nearly finiflied, many of his movables were carried afhore on the 26th. Amongll a variety of other ufelefs articles, was a box of toys, which, when expofed to public vrew, feemed greatly to pleafe the gazing multitude. But as to pots, kettles, plates, diflies, drinking-mugs, glaffes, and the whole train of our domeftic accommodations, hardly one of his coun- trymen would fo much as look at them. Omai himfelf now began to think that they were of no manner of ufe to him ; and therefore he very wifely difpofed of as many of thefe articles of Englifti furniture for the kitchen and pantry as he could find purchafers for, amongfl: the people of the fhips, receiving from them, in return, hatchets, and other tools, which had a more intrinlic value in this part of the world, and added more to his diftinguifliing fuperiority over thofe with whom he was to pais the remainder of his days. As foon as Omai was fettled in his new habitation, I began to think of leaving the ifland ; and got every thing off from the Ihore, this evening, except the horfe and mare, and a goat big with kidj which were left in the pofleffion of our friend, with whom we were now finally to part. I alio gave him a boar and two fows of the Englifli breed 9 and he had got two fows of his own. ' • The hiftory of Omai will, perhaps, interefl a very numerous dais of readers, more than any other oc- currehce of a voyage, the objedts of which do not, in general, promife much entertainment. Every circum- Itance, therefore, which may ierve to convey a fatisfac- tory account of the exadl fituation in which he was left, will be tiiought worth prci'erving; and the foN lowing particulars are added, to complete the view of his domeftic eftablifhment. He had picked up at Ota- heite four or five Toutous ; the two Zealand youths re- m:;incd with him ; and his brother, and fome others, joined him at Huaheine : (b that his family confifted already, of eight or ten perfons j if that can be called a family, to whjch not afingle female, as yet, belonged 5 :-.. : . . ' noi:, ;• :■■■ ■ . •■; ' - ' ■' • rr- . THIRD VOYAGE. 377 nor, I doubt, was likely to belong, unlefs its mafter bt'caine lefs volatile. The houfe which we erected forhini was 21- feet by IS; and 10 feet hi'^h. It was ccmpoted of boards, the fpoils of our military operations at Eimeo; and, in building it, as few nails as poiTible were ufed, that there might be no inducement, from the love of iron, to pull it down. ; i. ,, ... , ..^ .,' His European weapons confided of a mufquet, bayonet, and cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, t'.vo pair of p'ftols, and two or three fwords or cutlalT^s. riie polTeflion of thcfe made him quite happy ; which was my only view in giving him fuch prefents. For I was always of opinion, that he would have been happier without (ire-arms, and other European wea- pons, than with them ; as fuch implements of war, in the hands of one, whofe prudent ufe of them I had fome grounds for milirufting, would rather in- treafe his dangers, than eilablifli his fuperiority. After he had got on fliore every thing that belonged to him, and was fettled in his new habitation, he had moft of the officers of both Ihips, two or three times, to dinner, and his table was always well fup- plied with the very beft provifions that the ifland produced. . , y , Before I failed, I had the following infcription cut upon the outfide of his houfe: ,^i-,'*.; •pt- ■ Ill I III * mm ' THIRli VOYAGE. OOvy ivliJch they threw away when they found they were not wanted. "■ - Captain Cook proceeded to coaft along the ifland, in fearch of anchoring ground, thcfe canoes left him; but others came oil', bringing with them roafted pigs, and fome fine potatoes, which they exchanged for whatever was offered them. Several pigs were purchafed for a (ix-penny nail. The next morning we met with feveral more canoes filled with people, fome of whom took courage and ventured on board. In the courfe of our voyages, we never before met with the natives of any place fo much ailoniflied, as thefe people were upon entering a fhip. Their eyes were continually Hying from objeft to obje6t; the wildnefs of their looks and geftures fully expref- fmg their intire ignorance about every thing they faw, and flrongly marking to us, that, till now, they had never been vifited by Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commodities, except iron; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, or had known it in fome fmall quantity, brought to them at fome diftant period. Plates of earthen-ware, china cups, and other fuch things, they were fo new to them, that they alked if they were made of wood, and wiflied to have fome, that they might carry them to be looked at on fliore. They were in fome refpe6^ naturally well bred, or at lead, fearful of giving offence, alking where they fliould fit down, whether they might fpit upon the deck, and the like. One of the natives having ftoleii a butcher's cleaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, and haftened to the fliore, the boats purfued him in vain. Having fent three armed boats under the com- mand of Mr. Williamfon, to look for a landing place, and for frefli water, about noon, Mr. Willi- amfon came back, and reported, that he had feen a large pond behind a beach near one of the villages, which the natives told him contained frelh water; and nsi CAPTAIN COOk'^ and tliat there was antlioring j;rouml before it. \U- alfo reported, tliat he attempted to land in another place, but was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great numbers, at- tempted to take away the oars, mufquets, and in lliort, every thing they could lay hold of; prcflTed fo thick upon him, that ho was obliged to fire, by which oTie man was killed. But this unhappy cir- cumftance I did not know till after we had left the iHand; fo that all my meafures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. Mr. Williamfon told me, that after the man fell, his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and then retired from the boat, buf ftill they made fignals for our people to land, w hich he declined. It did not appear to Mr. "Williamfon, that the natives had any defign to kill, or even to hurt, any of his party; but they feemed excited by mere curiofity, to get from them what they had, being at the fame time, ready to give, in return, any thing of their own. * i •'•* ' In the afternoon of the 20th, I went afhorewith three armed boats, and twelve marines, to examine the water, and to try the difpofition of the inhabi- tants, feveral hundreds of whom were affembled on a Tandy beach before the village ; behind it was a nar- row valley, the bottom of which was occupied by the piece of water. The very inftant I leaped on fhore, the collected body of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble pofture, till, by expref- five figns, I prevailed upon them to rife. They then brought a great many fmall pigs, which they prefent- ed to me, with plantain-trees, ufmg much the fame ceremonies that we had feen pra6tifed on fuch pcca- fibns, at the Society and other ifldnds; and a long prayer being fpoken by a fmgle perfon, in whicn others of the ailembly fometimes joined. I expreffed my acceptance of their proffered friendfliip, by giv- ing them, in return, fuch prefents as I had brought with me ffom the fliip for that purpofe. When this introductory THIRD VOYAGE, 385 introdudory bufinefs was finiflied, 1 ftatloned a guard upon the beaqh, and got fome of the natives to con- du6t me to the water, which proved to be very good, and in a proper fituation for our purpofe. It was lb confiderable, that it may be called a lake; and it ex- tended farther up the country than we could fee. Hav- ing fatisfied my felf about this ellential point, and about the j)eaceable difpofition of the natives, I returned on board J and then gave orders that every thing (hould be in readinefs for landing and filling our water-cafks in the morning (the 21 ft^ when 1 went aihore with the people employed in this fervice, having a party of marines with us for a guard, who were itationec' on the beach. As foon as we Janded, a trade was let on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the people of ihe-ifland gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron, formed into fomething like chiflels. We met with no obftrudtion in watering i on the contrary, the natives aflilled our men in rolling the caiks to and from khepoolj and readily performed whatever we required. Every thing thus going on to my fatisfadtion, and coniidcring my prefence on the fpot as unneceflary, J left the command to Mr. Williamfon, and made an excurfion into the country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr. Anderfon and Mr. Webber. A numerous train of natives follow- ed us j and one of them, whom I had didinguilhed for his adivity in keeping the reft in order, I made choice of as our guide. This man, for fome time, proclaim- ed our approach; and every one whom we met, fell proftrate upon the ground, and remained in that pofi- tion till we had palled. This, as I afterwards under- Itood, is the mode of paying their refped to their own great chiefs. At fun-fet, I brought fome of the natives on board, having procured in the courfe of the day 9 tons of wa- ter; we. exchanged nails for 80 pigs and a few fowls. Thefe people merited our beft commendations, in this commercial intercourfe, never once attempting to cheat us. Some of them, indeed, as already mentioned, at firft, betrx^yed a thieveilh difpofition ; but th^y foon 17 C c c laid 3^6 CAPTAIN COOK*S laid afide. their condu(5V, which, wc convinced them, they coiiJd not pcrfcverc in with impunity. • Amongft the articles which they brought to barter, this day, we could not help taking notice of a particu« lar fort of cloak and cap, which, even in countries were drefs is more particularly attended to, might be reckoned elegant. The firft, are nearly of the fize and (hape of the fliort cloaks worn by the women in Eng- land, and the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loofely before. The ground of them is a net-work, upon which themoft beautiful red and yellow feathers are fo clofely fixed, that the furface might be compared to the thickeft and richeft velvet, which they refembie, both as to the feel, and the glof- . ly appearance. The nit "^ of varying the mixture is ^svery different; fome havii ^ triangular fpaces of red and yellow alternately ; others a kind of creffent; and fome that were entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which irnadc them appear, at fome diftanccj exactly like a :«icarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The brilliant co- lours of the feathers^ in rhofe that happened to be new, added not a little to their fine appearance; and we .found, that they were in high eflimation- with their .owners; for they would not, at firft, part with one of /them, for any thing that we offered, afking no lefs a V price than a mufquet; but fome were afterwards pur- ., chafed for large nails. The cap is made almoft exaAly like a helmet, with the middle part, or creft, fometimes of a hand's breadth, .:and it fits very clofe upon the head* having notches to ladmit the cars. It is a frame of twigs and ofiers, cover- *t.ed with net-work into which are wrought feathers, in ^ jthe fame manner as upon the cloaks, though rather clofer, ...and lefs diverfified ; tb^ greater part being red, with ivfomc black, ycUow, or green, ftripes, on the fides, fol- . lowing tlic curve diredion of the crefi. Thetjp, pro- l-bablyji coihplete the dreffe^, with the cloaks, for the I- natiwes.f0mctiine$.v appeared Ifytth'both oh togctlicT- -; . -:On the 29th, Capt. Cook left Atooi, being driven from the road by ftrefs: d^ weather, and foon arrived _ :.,..... ■..,'. off THIRD VOYAGE. 387 off the liland of Oncchcow. Here they were vlfited as before by the natives in their canoes. Many of them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and not quitting that humble poflure, till they were defircd to get up. They had brought fcverai females with them, who remained along-fide in their canoes, behaving with far lefs modefty than their country wo- men of Atooi ; and, at times, all joining in a long, not remarkable for its melody, though performed in very exaft concert, by beating time upon their breads v/'uh their hands. The men who had come on board, did not ftay long j and before they departed, fome of them requeftjed our permiflion to lay down on the deck, locks of their hair. it vjji jrj m •/.« y> >'■(:..' /• jj- r .J On Sunday, Feb. i, 1 went afliore in the pinnace, taking with me a ram -goat and two ewes, a boar and fow-pig of the Enghfti breed; and the feeds of melons, pumkins, and onions ; being very defirous of benefiting thefe poor people, by furnilhing them with fome addi- tional articles of food. To one of them, whom Mr. Gore had obferved afiuming fome command over the reft, I gave the goats, pigs, and leeds. I Ihould have left thc(t well-intended prefents at Atooi, had we not been fo unexpe(5tedly driven from that ifland. ^^•*^' " jfh While the people were engaged in. filling four water caiks, I walked a little way up the country, attended by the man above-mentioned, and fallowed by two others carrying the two pigs. As foon as we got upon a rifing ground, I ftoppcd to look round me ; and obferved- a woman, on the oppofite fide of the valley where 1 land* ed, calling to her country women who att»*.i(ided me. Upon this, the chief began to mutter fomething which I fuppofed was a prayer} and the two men, who car- ried the pigs^ continued to walk round me all the time, making, atlcaft, a- dozen circuits before the other had finifhed his crayfon. This ceremony being performed, we proceeded 5 and, prefently, met people coming from all pafts, who, on being called to by my attendants, threw themffilves proftrate on their faces, till I was oot of fight. The gnouiHl> whicK I p^e^, WAsii^^ftate of a':^ct^n(mO ,iooii\ ibi ^a>;j .htAJ ,riT$£^ri) riCjnature, Si.»* 388 CAPTAIN COOK*iS , - nature, very ftony, and the foil feemed poor. It was, however, covered with (hrubs and plants, fome of which perfumed the air with more delicious fragrancy than I had met with at any of the other iflands vifited by us in this part of the ocean. : ' • ^r » ... •,.../.;;,.;; ;.u' rrt;^^"-?* Thefe two illands of Atooi and Ohecheow, were part of a cluiler of iflands, now firft difcovered, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Sandwich iflands. It is worthy of obfervation, that the iflands in the Pacific Ocean, which our late voyages have added to the geo- graphy of the globe, have been generally found lying in groups or clufters ; the Angle intermediate iflands, as yet difcovered, being few in proportion to the others; though, probably, there are many more of them ftill un- known, which ferve as fteps between the feveral cluflers. Of this newly difcovered Archipelago. Capt. Cook now faw five, whofe names, as given by the natives, arc Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. <©f Atooi, which is the largefl, we ftiall proceed to give the moft interefting particulars. ../-^fj mmov'/ ^i\l The inhabitants are of a middling flature, firmly made, with fome exceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful fliape, nor for ftriking features, which rather exprefs an opennefs and good-nature, than a keen inteK ligent difpofition. Their vifage, efpecially amongil the women, is fometimes round, but others have it long ; nor can we fay, that they are diftinguiflied, as a nation, by any general caft of countenance. Their colour is nearly of a nut brown, and it may be difficult to make SL nearer comparifon. The women are a little more de- licate than the men, in their formation ; but 1 may fay, that, with a very few exceptions, they have little claim to thofe peculiarities that dif^inguifli the fex in other countries. However, upon the whole, they are far from being ugly, and appear to have feNV natural de- formities ot any kind. .r;? A^/pnn sJ/nra-yi ^o Tjrtinun * They are vigorous^ adive, and^xpejt fywmRJersTj; leaving their canoes upon the moil trifling otcafioiH diving under them, and fwimming to others, though at a great diflance. It was very coijamcnvj;Q fee women^, ;. ; i \ . with THIRD VOYAGE. 3^9 rio»i"i- -"f^ ^ fi'iih infants at the breaft, when the furf was fo high, that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and without endangering their little ones, fwim to the (hore, through a Tea that looked dreadful. ., From the number which we faw collefted at every village, as we failed paft, it may be fuppofed, that tlie inhabitants of this ifland are pretty numerous. Any computation, that we make, can be only conjedural. But, that fome notion may be formed, which fliall not greatly err on either fide, 1 would fuppofe, that, inclu- ding the ftragling houfes, there might be, upon the whole ifland, fixty fach villages, as that before which we anchored J and that, allowing five perfons to each houfe, there would be, in every village, five hundred j or thirty thoufand upon the illand. This number is, certainly, not exaggerated ; for we had forr^'times three thoufand perfons, at leaft, upon the. beach ^ when it could not be fuppofed, that above a tenth part of the inhabitants were prefent. ^ . ' i.., ..^fiAn The women have large pieces of Cidtnwrappea round them, reaching from juft below the*breaft to the hams, ^.,. or lower; and feveral were feen wi^h pieces thrown ...i loofely about the Hioulders, which cc/ered :he grcateft .,.., part of the body ; but the children, when very young,. ^. ^ are quite naked. Th^y wear nothing upon the head 3. p., but the hair, in both fexes, is cut in different forms; , and the general fafhibn, efpecially among the women, .^..^ is, to have it long before, and fhort behind* The nieiV:^ V. often have it cut, or fhaved, on each fide, in fucha .^v; manner, that the remaining part, in fome meafure, re- .^i fembbs the crefl of their caps or helmets, formerly de-.p |; fcribied. Both fexes, however, feem very carelefs about |.,v their hair, and have nothing like combs to drefs it with, ^^ri^.y Inftances of wearing it, in a fingular manner, were -.ryi^ fometimes met with among the men, who twift it into,,.,,,(j^ a number of feparate parcels, like the tails of a wig, eacU. f about the thicknefs of a finger j though the greatest ^,.^^1 part of thefe, wl-ich arefo long that they reach far dowa jy^^, the back, we obferved, virere artificially fixed upon the^^ ^/ head, over their own hair/ It is remarkable, that con- ^ '-'•'■•• trary % 390 - »« CAPTAIN COOK S tmry to the general pradice of the iflands we had hither- to difcovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Wands have not their ears perforated 5 nor hfivc they the leaft idea of wearing ornaments in them. Both fexes, neverthelefs, adorn thcmfelves with neck- lp,qes made of bunches of fmall black cord, like our hat- ftring, often above an hundred-fold j exactly like thofe of Wateeoo 5 only, that, inftead of the two little balls, on the middle before, they fix a fmail bit of wood, ftone, or (hell, about two inches long, with a broad hook, turning forward at its lower part, well poli(hed. They Jiave, like wife, necklaces of many ftrings of very fmall lliells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow. And fometimes, &, fmall human image of bone, about three inches long neatly poliOied, is hung round the neck. The wooien alfo wear bracelets of a fingle flieU, pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interfperfed, and well pplifhed, fixed by a ftring drawn very clofely through them; or others of hogs teeth, laid parallel to each other, with the concave part outward, and the points cut off, fafter^d together as the former j fome of which made only of large boars* tuiks, are very elegant. The men, fometimes wear plumes of the tropic birds fea- thers, fluck in their heads j or thofe of cocks, faftened round neat poliQied iiicks, two feet long, commonly decorated, at the lower part, withoora; and, for the fame purpofe, the fkin of a white dog's tail is tewed over a ftkk, with its tuft at the end. They alfo, fre- quently, wear ou the head a kind ofoinament, of a Anger's thicknefs, or more, covered with red and yel- low feathers, curioufly varied, and tied behind, ajnd on , the arm, above the elbow, a kind of broad (hell-work, ;grounded upon net-work. The n>en are frequently pundlurc > though not in ^ny particular part, as the Otaheitans, and thof* of f; Top^atabOo. Sometimes there are a few marks upon iiheir hand^, or arnjs, and near the groin; but frequent- .fy we could obferve none at all j though a few indivi- rsjjuals had more of this, fort of ornament, than wc had ti^fually fee^'^ at other places, and ingenioufly ejfecuted M'in; ♦*!-).:•;-< «>^4aiMJ' «*" k'tii* tf"^ U .■t7:a£;<.>CW 'f^:i\'h ■ '''■^ ■riw ^2'^mXrja ^i. TfliRfD trot AGE. 39t In a great variety of liftes and figures, 6rt the drills and fore part of the belly ; on which latter, feme of them ;iad I lie figure of the taame, or breaft-platc, of Ota- heite, though we did not meet with the thing itfelf amongft them. Though they feem to have adopted the mode of liv- ing in villages, there is no appearance of defence or for- tification, near any of them : and the houfes are fcat- tered about, without any order, either with relpeft to the diftances from each other, or their pofition in any particular direction. Neither is there any proportion as to their fize ; fome being large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet long, and twenty or thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their figure is not unlike oblong corn, orhay-ftacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may be conceived of them, if we fuppofe the roof a barn placed on the ground, in fuch a manner, as to form a high, acute ridge, with two very low fides, hardly difcernable at a dillance. The gable, at each end, correfponding to the fides, make thefe habitations perfedly clofe all round ; and they are well thatched with long grafs, which is laid on flender poles, difpofed with fome regularity. The entrance is made different- ly in the end or fide, and is an oblong hole, to low, that one muft rather creep than walk in; and is often (hut up by a board of planks, fattened together, which ferves as a door, but having no hinges, muil be remov- ed occafionally. No light enters the houfe, but by this opening; and though fuch clofe habitations may afford a comfortable retreat in bad weather, they feem but ill adapted to the warmth of the climate. They are however, kept remarkabljr clean ; and their floors are covered with a large quantity of dried grafs, over wbich they fpread mats to fit and lleep upon. At' oifCr ehd Hands a kind of a bench, about three feet high, on which their houfehold utenfils are placed. The Cata- logue is not long. It confifts of gourd-fliells, whkh ^hey convert into vefTels that ferve as bottles to held .water, and as bafkets to contain their viftuals, and other things, with covers of the famej and a few wooden ■^- 392 CAPTAIN cook's bowls and trenchers, of different fizes. Judging from . what we faw growing, and from what we brought to inarket, there can be no doubt, that the greateft part of their vegetable food confifts of fweet potatoes, taro, and plantains; and that bread-fruit and yams are rather to be efteemed rarities. Of animal food, they can be in no want ; as they have abundance of hogs, which run, without reftraint, about the houfes; and if they eat dogs, which is not improbable, their flock of thefe feemed to be very confiderable. The great-number of iilhing-hooks found among them, (hewed that they de- rive no inconfiderable fuppiy of animal food from the iea. But.it Ihould feem, from their practice of falling fiflii that the opennefs of their coaft often interupts the buiinefs of catching them; as may be naturally fup- pofed, that no fet of people would ever think of pre- serving quantities of food artificially, if they could de- pend upon a daily, regular fuppiy of it, in its frefh ftate. This fort of reafoning however, will not ac- count for their cuftom of faking their pork, as well as their filb, which are preferved in gourd-Ihells. The fait, of which they ufe a great quantity for this purpofe, is of a red colour, not very courfe. It has its colour, doubtlefs, from a mixture of the mud, at the bottom of the part where it is formed, for fome of it, that had adhered into lumps was of a fufficient whitcnefs and purity. They bake their vegetable food with heated ftones, as at the Southern Iflands; and from the vaft quantity which we faw drefled at one time, we fufpedted that the whole village, oi , at leaft, a confiderable number of people, joined in the ufe of a common oven. The only artificial difli that we met with, was a taro pudding; which though a difagreeable mefs from its fournefs, was greedily devoured by the natives. They eat off aj:ind^ of wooden plate, or trenchers; and the wom,en,;'J'is far as we could judge from one inftance, if reftrainwj^.ffom- feeding at the fame difli with the men, as at Otafei^e* / are, at leafi, permitted to eat jn the fame place ne&r THIRD VOiTAGE* 593 their ahitifements feemed pretty various; for^ during our (liort ftayi feveral were difcovered. The dances, at which they tife the feathered cloaks and caps, were not feen ; but from the motions which they made, with their hands, on other occafions, when they fungj we could fotni fome judgment that they are* in fome degree at leaft, fimilar to thofe we met with at the Southern lllands, though not executed fo fkilfully. Neither had they amongft them either flutes or reeds; and thfe only two mufical inftruments whicli we obferv- ed, were of an exceeding rude kind. One of them does not produce a melody exceeding that of a child's rattle. Itconfifts of what may be called a conic cap inverted, but fcarcely hollowed at the bafe above a foot high, made of a coarfcj fedge-likc plant j the uppef part of which, and the edgesj are ornamented with- beautiful red feathefsj and to the point, or lowgr part, is fixed a gourd-lhell, larger than the firft. Into this is put fomething to rattle; which is done by holding the in- ftrument by the fmall partj and (baking, or rathef moving it, from place to place brifkly, either to difter- ent fides, or backward and forward, juft before the face, ftriking the breaft with the other hand at the fame time. The other mufical inl^rument (if either of them deferve that name) Was a hollow veflel of wood, like a platter, combined with the ufe of two fl:icks, on which one of our gerttlcmen faw a man performing. He held one of the fticks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle with one hand, and ftruck it with the other, which was fmaller, and refembled a drum-flick, in a quicker or flower meafure; at the fam« time beating with his foot upon the hollow veflel, that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune, that was by no means difagreeable* This mufic was accompanied by the vocal performance of fome women, whofc fong had a pieafing and tender cffedl. We obferved great numbers of fmall poliflied rod?i about four or five feet long, fomewhat thicker than the rammer of a mufket, with a tuft of long, white dog's hair fixed on the fmall end. Thefe are, probably, ulcd : 17 Ddd j^ •JgS'?-^^-, 'Ssl i94 CAPTAIN COOK'S ■■p in their diverfions. We faw a perfon take one of theni in liis hand, and, holding up, give a imall (Iroke, till ' he brought it into an horizontal pofition, ftriking with the foot on the fame fide, upon the ground, and with his other hand, i eating his bread at the fame time. They play at bowls^ with pieces of whet-flone, of about a pound weight, fliaped fomcwhat like a fmall cheefc, but rounded at the fides and edges, which are very nicely polillicd; and they have other bowls of the fame fort, made of a heavy, reddilh brown clay, neatly gla- zed over with a compofition of the fame colour, or of a coarfe, dark grey flate. They alfo ufe, in the fame manner that we threw quoits, fmall, flat, rounded pieces of writing flate, of the diameter of the bowls, but fcarcely a quarter of an inch thick, alfo well poli(hed. From thefe circumftances, one would be induced to think, that their games arc rather trials of ikili than of ilrength. Had the Sandwich Jflands .been difcovered at an early period, by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage of fo excellent a fitu- ation, and made ufe of Atooi,, or fome other of the illands, as a refrefliing-place to the fhips, that fail an- nually from Acapulco to Manilla. How happy would Lord Anion have been, and what liardfhips would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a group of illands, halfway between America and Tinian,. where all his wants could have been efFedually fupplied. CHAP. V. .1 • 'i •;tyt Curious marine phcenomena — Arrival at Nootka Sound — Intercourfe ivilli the natives — Defcription of their pej]fons — Ikeir general difpofilionsy and their eager- ne/'s to po/Jl'fs iron and other metals. . . , , IN purfuing his voyage northward, one of the iiiofi: curious circumftances which the Captain obfervpd,, was, during a calm on the 2d of March, 1778,. when fome parts of the fea feemed covered with a kind of THIRD VOYAGE. 393 flimc, and fome fmaU Tea animals were fwimmiiio about. The moll: conrpicuous ot which, were oi the gelatinous, or mcdufa kiml, ahnoft globular ; and ano- ther iort fmallcr, that had a while, or (hining np[.^ear- ancc, and were very nunierous. Some ot tiiele lad were taken up, and put into a glats cup, with iome fait water, in wnich they appeared like Imah fcaler^ or bits of filver when at reft in a proiie fituation; When they began to fwim about, which they did, with equal eafe, up'Mi their ba^ks, fides, or belly, they emitted the brij]!;he{l colours of the mod precious gems, according to their poiition with rcfpcft to the light. Sometimes thcv a^;peared quite pellucid, at other times alluming vaiious ti'its ot blue, from a pale (lipphirine, to a deep violet colmr, which were frequently mixed with a ruby, or opaline rednefs; and glowed with ftrength'fufTicient to illuniinate the veflel and water. They proved to be a new fptcies of onifcus, and, from their properties, were by Mr Anderfon called onifcus fulgens; being, probably^ an animal which has a (hare in producing fome forts of that lucid appearance, often obferved near Ihips at Tea, in the night. Tlie coaft of New Albion, in North America, was firft defcried on the 7th; but being much obllruifted by adverfe and tempeltuous winds, it was not till the 2,9th that the Captain came to anchor in a found, to which he gave the name of King George's Sound, but which the natives called Nootka. It is fituated on the E. corner of Hope Bay, in the lat. of 49 deg. ^3 min. N. and in the long, of 233 dcg. 12 min. £. Vari- ous reparations of the (hips, and a veiy Ifienclly inter-* courfe with the natives, employed liis time till the 26th ' of April, when he put to lea in the further purfuit of ^ his voyage. When the Captain (irfl: entered this Sound, three canoes came off to the (hip. In one of tliefe were two men, in another (ix, ancj in the third ten. Having come pretty near, a perlbn in one of the two lail (lood ,~ up, ajid made a long harangue, inviting them to land, v. as was guelTed, by hisgellures. At the lame time, he D d d 2 kept i^: 39^ CAPTAIN COOK*! kept ftrewing handfuls of fathers towards thcmj and fomc of his companions threw handfuls ofaredduft in the fame manner. The perfon who played the ora- tor, wore the /kin of fome animal, and held, in each hand, fomething which rattled as he kept Ihaking it. After the tumultuous noife had ceafed, they lay at a lit- tle diftance from the (hip, and converfed with each other in a very eafy manner; nor did they feem tq They have either no beards at all, which was moft commonly the cafe, or a fmall thin one upon the point of the chin, which does not arife from any natural de- fedl of hair on that part, but from plucking it out more or lefsj for fome of them, and particularly the old men, have not only confidcrable beards all over the chin, but whifkers, or muftachios, but on the upper lip, and and running thence toward the lower jaw obliquely downward, Their colour we could not pofitively determine, as their bodies wer^ incrqfted with paint and dirt ^ though THIRD VOYAGE. ^ , In particular cafes, when thefe were well rubbed off, the whitenefs ot the ikin appeared to equal that of Europeans, Their children, whofc fkins had never been (lained with paint, alfo equalled ours in whitenefs. The women are nearly of the fame fize, colour, and form with the menj from whom it is not eafy to dif- tinguilh them, as they poilefs no natural delicacies fufiicient to render their perfons agreeable ; and hardly any one was feen, even thofe who were in the prime of life, who had the Jeaft pretenfions to be called handfcme. The chief employment of the natives feems to be that of fifhing, and killing land or fea animals, for the fuftenance of their families; for we faw few of them doing any thing in their houfes : whereas the women are occupied in manufaduring their ilaxen or woollen garments, and in prepairing the fifli called fardine, for drying j which they carry up fi jm the beach in twig baikets, after the men have brought them in their ca- noes. The women are alfo fent in the fmall canoes to gather mufcles, and other IhelUfilh j and perhaps on fome other occafions. We were much better enabled to form fome judg- ment of their difpofition, and, in fome meafure, even of their inethod of living, from the frequent vifits fo many of them paid us at our (hipsi in their canoes ; in which, it fliould kcm, they fpend a great - deal . of time at leaft in the fummer fealon. For we obferved that they not only eat and ilepp frequently in them, but ftrip off their clothes, and Jay themfelves along to bafk in the fun, in the fame manner as we had fcen pradtifed at. their village. Their canoes of the larger lort, are, indeed, fufficiently fpacious for that purpofe, and per- feftly dry J fo that, under (belter of a fkin, they are, except in r^iny weather, much more comfortable habi- tations than their houfe, .dojj^i'M. With refpeft to food, their greateft reliance feems to be upon the lea, as affording fiih, mufcles, and fmaller fliell-fi(h, and fea-animals. Of the firft, the principal are herrings, fardinesi two fpecies of bream, and •i9' CAPTAIN COOK S and fmall cod. But the herrings and fardines are not only eaten frelh, in their fcafon, but likewife fcrve as llores, which after being dried and fmoaked, are pre- fcrved by l^eing fcvvcd up in mats, fo as to form large bales, three or four feet Iquare. The herrings alio lup- ply them with another grand refource, which is a vaft quantity of roe, very curioufly prepared. It is ftrewed upon, or as it were, incrullated about, fmail branches or the Canadian pine. They alfo prepare it upor. a long narrow feagrafs, which grows plentifully upon the rocks, under water. It may be confidered as the winter bread of ihefe people, and has no difagrecable tafte. They alfo roall the large kind of mufcle, then ftick them upon long wooden ikewers, and taking them off occalionally, eat "them without any other preparation, though they often dip them in oil, as a fauce. ' u;'iu.<.-* :<,*^ Of the fea-animals, the moft common in ufeamongfl them as food, is the porpoife, the tat or rind of which, as well as theflelh, they cut in large'pieces, and having dried them, as they do the herrings, eat them without any farther preparation. They alfo j)repare a fort of broth from this animal, in its frelh l\ate, in a lingu- lar manner, putting pieces of it in a Iquare wooden vef- fel or bucket, with water, and then throwing heated flones into it. This operation they repeat till they think tl.e contents are iutficicntiy ftewed or leethed. They put in the frefh, and take out the other flones, with a cleft llick, which jerves as tongs; the veliel be- ing always placed near the fire, tor that purpole. This is a pretty common didj among them, and from its appearance, feemsto be flrong nounfliing food. "'"'' Their manufadure?, and mechanic arts, are far more ingenious, both in defign and execution, than could have been expeded from the natural difpofition of the people, and the little [)rogrefs that civilization has made amongft them in other refpeds. Their flaxen garments arc made of the bark of the pine-tree, beat into a hempen flate. It is not fpun, but, after being properly prepared, is fpread upon a ftick, which is fall:ened acrofs two others that^ fland upright. It is difpofed THIRD VOYAGE. 399 difpofed in fuch n. manner, that the manufa^flurcr, who fits on her hams at this fimplc machine, knots it acrol's with fmall plaited threads, at the diftance of half an inch from each other. Though, by this method, it be not fo clofe or firm as cloth that is woven, the bunches between the knots make it fufficicntly impervious to the air, by filling the intcrftices ; and it has the addi- tional anvantage of being fofter and more pliable. Their woollen garments, though probably manufactured in the fame manner, have the ftrongeft refemblance to woven cloth. But the various figures which are very artificially inferted in them, deftroy the fuppofition of their being wrought in a loom; it being extremely un- likely, that thefe people fliould be fo dexterous as to be able to finidi fuch a complex work, unlefs immediate- Jy by their hands. They are of different .degrees of finenefs; fome refembling our coarfeftrugs or blankets; and others almoft equal to our fineft fort, or even fofter, and certainly warmer. Their implements for filhing and hunting, which are both ingenioufly contrived, and well made, are nets, hooks and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an inftrumcnt like an oar. This laft is about 20 feet long, 4 or ^ inches, broad, and about half an inch thick. Each edge, for about two thirds of its length, is fet with fliarp bone teeth, about two inches long. Herrings and fardines, and fuch other fiiiall fiQi as come in Ihoals, are attacked with this inftrument; which is ftruck into the (hoal, and the fifti are caught either upon, or between the teeth. Their hooks are made ot bone and wood, and rather inartificially; but the har- poon, with which they ftrike the whales and lefler fea animals, fliews a great reach of contrivance. It is com- pofed of a piece of bone, cut into two barbs, in which is fixed the oval blade of a large mufcle (hell, in which is the point of the inftrument. To this is faftened about two or three fathoms of rope; and to throw this harpoon, they ufe a (haft of about 1 2 or ib feet long, to which the rope is made faft, and to one end ot which the harpoon is fixed, fo as to feparate from the lliaft, 4t)6 captAim ddbk^s fhaft, and leave it floating upon the water as 1 biioyi when the animal darts away with the harpoon. Wc failed from Nootka Sound on the 26th of AfJril, and fooh lofl; fight of land; but on the 2d of May^ fteering N. \V. by N. we difcovered a round elevated mountain^ which was named Mount EdgecUrr.be, and the point of land (hooting out from it. Cape Edge- cumbe. The land, except in fome places clofe to the fea, was all of a confiderable height, and hilly. The more elevated hills were covered with fnow; but the lower ones were free from it, and covered with a fine wood. Hence he coafted along, noting feveral inlets, iflands^ capes, and mountains, (to which in the order of difco- very, he gave the names of the Bay of Iflands, Cro^s Gape, Crofs Sound, Cape Fair Weather, Mount Fair Weather, Bhering*s Bay, the mountain called by Bher- ing, Mount Elias, Cape Suckling's, Kaye*s Ifland, and Comptroller's Bay) till the izthofMay^ when he an- chored before a fmall cove, a little within a cape, to which he gave the name of Cape Hinching Broke. Near this were fome rocky iflands, to which Mr. Gord was fent in a boat, in hopes of fliiooting fome eatable birds. But he had hardly got to them, before the na- tives made their appearance in two large canoes* on which he thought proper to return to the fliips, and they followed him. They would not venture along- fide, but kept at a diftance, hollowing aloud, and alternately clafping and extending their arms; and in a (hort time, began a kind of fong, exadly after the man- ner of thofe at Nootka. Their heads were all powder-" cd with feathers. One man held out a white garments which was interpreted as a fign of friendfhip; and ano- ther flood up in a canoe, quite naked, for almoft a quarter of an hour, with his arms ftrctched out like a crofs, and motionlefs. Though the captain returned all their figns of friendfhip, and by every expreffive geflure, tried to encourage them to come along-fidc, he could not prevail. After receiving fome prefents . 'which were thrown to them, they retired to that part THIRD VOYAGE. 40I of the fliore whence they came, making figns they would appear again the next morning. The next morning. Captain Cook got under fail, in order to look out for fome fnug place, where he might fearch for a leak, which he had lately fprung. At firft the clearnefs of the weather tempted him to fleer to the N. farther up the largeft inlet; but bad weather returning, he was obliged to anchor, before he had got fo far into the bay as he intended. The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the natives from paying him a vifit. They came off in two canoes, two men in one, and one in the other, being the number each could carry. Each of thefe men had a ftick, about three feet long, with the large fea- thers or wings of birds tied to it. Thefe they fie- quently held up, with a view, as was gueflcd, to exprefs their pacific difpofition. . The treatment thefe men met with induced many more to come, between one and two the next morning (the i4th) in great and fmall canoes. Some ventured on board the (hip, but not till fome of the trew had (lepped into their boats. Amongft thofe who came on board, was a good-looking middle-aged man, who was afterwards found to be the cliief. He was cloathed in a drefs made of the fca ottei'b ikin, and had on fuch a cap as is worn by the natives of Nootka Sound, orna- mented with iky blue glafs beads about the fizc of a large pea. He feemed to fet a much higher value up- on thefe, than upon our white glafs beads. Any Ibrt of beads, however, feemed to be in high eftimation with thefe people i and they readily gave whatever they had in exchange for them, even their line otter ikins. Thefe people were alfo defirous of iron, but they wanted pieces of eight or ten inches long at leaft, and of the breadth of three or four fingers. For they abfo- lutely rejeded fmall pieces. Conlequently they got but little, iron having, by this time, become a fcarce article. The captain could not prevail upon the chief to truit himfelf below the upger deck j nor did he and his com- , 17 ■:■' "■:'"-%::^\ Eee' ^ r-' r':.-\i"'- ' panions 402 CAPTAli; COOK S ".; panlons remain long on board. But while he had their company, it v/as neceffary to watcb them narrowly, as they loon betrayed a thievifli difpofiiion. At length,- after being about three or four hours olo=;g-iKle the Refolution, they all left her and went t(<;r.»e Difcoveryj none having been there before, except one man, who "at this time came from her, and mimediareiy returned thither in company with the rcil. When this \vas ob- ferved, it was thought this man had met with iomething there, which he knew would pleale his coun.cymen better than what they had met with on board the Re- fbl uiion. . ./,r , ■ ./ • ■ >;;s^'' ^' .-v-w--. !:t^ As foor? as they were gone, I fent a boat to f)und the head of the bay : for as the wind was moderate, 1 had thoughts of laying the Ihip alliore, if a convenient .place could be found where 1 might begin our opera- * tion to ^t)p the leak. It was not long before all the iaatives ieft the Dilcovery, and indead of returning to us, made their way toward our boat employed as above. The ofiicers in her feeing this, returned to the (hip* and was followed by all the canoes. The boat*s crew had no fooner got on board, leaving in her two of their number, by way of a guard, than fome of the . natives itepped into her. Some prelented their fpears before the two men; others call loofe the lope which fallened her to the (hip, and the refl attempted to tow her away. But the inftant they faw us preparing to ' oppofe thern, they let hnr go, ftepped out of her into their canoes, and made figns for us to lay down our arms, having the appearance of being as perfedlly un- concerned as if they had done nothing amib. This, though rather a moll daring attempt, was hardly equal to what they had meditated on board the Difcovery. The man who came and carried all his countrymen from • the Refolution to the other iliip, had firfl been on board ;: of her, where, after looking down all the hatchways, and feeing nobody but the officer of the watch, and ' one or two more, he no doubt thought they might . plunder her with eafe, efpecially as flie lay at fome diflance from us. It was uncjueftionably with this " * ':::- ^ \kW r THIRD VOYAGE. 403 view that they all repaired to her. Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board, "drew their knives, made figns for the oificer and people on deck, to keep off, and began to look about tbeai for plunder. The firft thing they m^K v.ith was the rudder of the beat, which they' threw overbuard to thole of the party who remained in the can.Xb. Before they haa tiiUe to find another objed that pieafed their fancy, :he crew were armed, and began to come on dccK with cutlaf- fes. On feeing this, the whole company ot plunderers fneaked off into their canoes, with as much deliberation and indifference as they had given up the boat, and thfy were obfcrved defcribing to thofe who had not been on board, how much lons-er the knives of the (hip's crew were than their own. It was at this time, that my boat was on the lounding duty, -which they mufl have feen; for they proceeded diredly for her, after their diiiippointment at the Difcovery. This day in heaving the anchor out of the boat, one of thefeamen, either through ignorance or careleflnefs, was carried overboard by the buoy -rope, and followed the anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable, that in this critical fituation, he had prefcnce of mind to difcn- gage himfelf, and come up to the furface of the water, wh;ro he was taken up, with one of his legs fradured in :i dangerous manner, h {-,. ^''i^^ viu The 15111 and i6th was employed in flopping the leak. This was done in a bay, which Captain Cook very pppcriy called Snug Corner Bay. On the i7tli tlic captain weighed, and fleered to the North-welhvard ; ^^hinking, if there Ihould be any paffage to the N. through this inlet, that it mufl be in thatdiredion. Soon alter he was under fail, the na- tives in both great and Imall canoes, paid another vifit, which gave an additional opportunity of forming a more perfect idea of their perfbns, drefs and other par- ticulars. Thefe vifitor: leemed to have no other buli- nets but to gratify their curiolity, for they entered into no fort of traffic, u^mu g£W 'fl - j«^ M E e e 2 From 404 CAPTAIN cook's .■•*:r From various circumftanees, Capt. Cook found It highly improbable that there fliould be a pafl^ge to the N. He proceeded, therefore,, on the i8th, to the South-wcftward, dvywn the inlet, another paffage to which he difcovered, to the S, W. of that by which he came in, which enabled him to Ihorten his way out to fea. It is feparated from the other by an iiland, ex- tending 18 leagues in the direction of N. E. and S. W. to which he gave the name of Montagu Ifland. In this S. W. channel are fevcral iflands, Thofe that lie in the entrance, next the open fea, are high and rocky. But thofe within are low ones, and being entirely free from fnow, and. covered with wood and verdure, on thii: account they were called Green Iflands. In a channel between thefe iflands and Montagu Ifland, he (leered on the 19th, and on the 20th, was again in the cn^n ^m, the coaft tending W. by S. as far as the ey ^ ..id reach. ■' To the inlet, which Capt. Cook had juft left, he gave che name of Prince William's Sound, and from what he faw of it, he fuppofed that it occupied at leaft a degree and a half of latitude,, and two of long, exrlu- fivc of the arms or branches, the extent of which is not known. ■ .\, ■ ■: •■. '■:■.■.. .h^ • r^^,; '-7 y:-^--- ■ The natives were in general not above the common height, though many of them were under it. They were fquare orftrong chefted • and the moft difpropoi- tioned part of their body feemed to be their heads, which were very large, with thick (hort necks, and large, broad, or fpreading faces ; which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, though not fmall, fcarce bore a proportion to the fize of their faces ; and their nofes had full round points, hooked, or turned up at the tip. Their teeth were broad, white, equal in fize, and evenly fet. Their hair black, thick, ftraight and ftrong; and their beards in general thin, or wanting; bir the hairs about the lips of thofe who have them, wc / ftifF or briftly, and frequently of a brown colour. But ieveral of the elderly men had even» large and thick, but ftraight beards. 7 ,4 : ^.mx^^-a ^,^^s. • ■ Though, THIRD VOYAGE. 405 Thouf^h, in general, they agree in the make of their perfons, u>,d largenefs of their heads, there is a confi- derable variety in their features; but very few can be faid to be of the handfomer fort, though their counte- nance indicates a natural (hare of vivacity, good na- ture, and franknefs. Some of «^he women have agree- able faces, and many are cufily diftingui(hable from the men by their features, which are more delicate; but this fliould be underftood chiefly of the younger fort, or middle-aged. The complexion of the women, and of the children, is white; but without any mixture of red. And fome of the men, who were feen naked, had ra- ther, a brownifh or fwarthy caft, which could fcarcely be the efFedt of any flain; for they do not paint their bodies. • ,. . .^ . , ^ Their common drefs (for men, women,. and chil- dren, are clothed alike) is a kind of clofe frock, or rather robe, reaching generally to the ankles, though fometimes only to the knees. And the upper part is a hole juft fufficient to admit the head, with lleeves that reach to the wrift. Thefe frocks are made of the Ikins ofdifterent animals; the moft common of which are thofe of the fea-otter, grey fox, racoon, and pine-mar- tin, with many of feal fkins ; and, in general, they arc worn with the hairy fides outwaid. Some alfo have thele frocks made of the fkins of fowls, with only the down remaining on them, which they glue on other fubftances. When it rains, they put over this another frock, ingenioully made from the inteftines of whales,- ♦;r fome other large animal, prepared fo fkilfuUy, as al- molt to refemble our gold-beaters leaf. It is made to draw tight round the neck; its fleeves reach as low as the wrift, round which they are tied with a ftring; and its fkirts, when they are in the canoes, are drawn over the hm of the hole in which they fit, fo that no water can enter. At the fame time, it keeps the men entirely dry upward. For no water can penetrate through it, any more than through a bladder. The men commonly wear their hair cropt round the neck and forehead^ but the women allow it to grow ":,?.. . •'■ longi '•# . r 406 CAPTAIN cook's long} and mod of them tie a fmall lock of it on the crown, or a few club it behind, after our manner. Both fexes have the ears perforated with feveral holes, about the outer and lower part of the edge, in which they hang like bunches of beads. The feptum of the nofe is alfo perforated, through which they frequently thruft the quill feathers of fmall birds, or little bending ornaments, ftrung on a ftiff (Iring, 3 or 4 inches long, which give them a truly grotefquc appearance. But the moll uncommon and unfightly ornament fafliion, adopted by fonie of both fexcs, is their having their under lip ilir, or cut, quite through, in the direftion of the mouth, a little before the Iwelling part. This incifion, which is made even in the fuckling children, is often bove tvv^o inches longj and either by its na- tural reti; n, when the wound is frefh, or by the repetition Oi fome artificial management, aflumes the true fhape of lips, and becomes lb large as to admit the tongue through. This happened to be the cafe when the firft perfon having this inciiion was feen by one of the feamen, who called out that the man had two mouths; and indeed, it does not look much un- like it. In this artificial mouth they flick a flat, narrow ornament, made chiefly out of a folid fliell or bone, cut in little narrow pieces, like fmall teeth, almoft down to the bafe or thickefl: part, which has a fmall projeding bit at each end that fupports it when put into the divided lip, the cut part then appearing out- ward. Others have the lower lip only perforated into feparate holes; and then the ornament confifts of ma- ny diftin(5t flielly lluds, whofe points are puflied through thefe holes, and the heads appear within the lip, as another row of teeth under their own. Thefe are the native ornaments. But many beads of European manufadture were found among them, chiefly of a pale blue colour, which they hang in their ears, about their caps, or join to their hp-ornaments, which have a fmall hole drilled in each point to which they are fattened, and others to them, till they hang fometimes as low as the point of the chin. But, in this THIRD VOYAGE. 407 lad cafe, they cannot remove them fo eafily; for, as to their own lip-ornaments, they, can take them out with their tongue, or fuck within, at pleafurc. Tlicy alfo wear bracelets, of the (helly beads, or others of u cylin- drical fliape, made ofafubltance hke amber, which are alfo ufed in their ears and nofes. And fo fond are '^^^ey, in geneial, ot ornaments, that they flick any thing in their perforated lip ; one man appearing with two of our iron nails projedingfrom it like prongs; and another endeavouring to put a large brafs button into it. The men frequently paint their faces of a bright red, and of a black colour, and fometimes of a blue, or leaden colour; but not in any regular figure; and the women, in fome meafure, endeavour to imitate them, by punduring or ftaining their chin with black, that comes to a point in each cheek. Their bodies are not painted, which may be owing to the fcarcity of proper materials; for all which they brought to ieil in bladders, were in very fmall quantities. The weapons, and inftrumentsfor filhing and hunt- ing, with their canoes, are the very fame that are made ule of by the Efquimaux and Greenlanders. For de- fenfive armour they have a kind of jacket, or coat of mail, made of thin laths, bound together with finews, which makes it quite flexible, though io clofe as not to admit of an arrow or dart, h only covers the trunk of the body, and may not be improperly compared to a woman's flays. ".^ ivjr . *r:tj r'-,:>tn*^^ ''^r'-i-y' As none of thefe people lived in the bay where Cap- tain Cook anchored, or landed, he faw none of their ha- bitations; and had not time to look after them. Of their domeftic utenfils, they brought in their boats fome round and oval (hallow dilhes ot wood; and others of a cylindrical fliape, much deeper. The fides were made ot one piece, bent round, like our chip-boxes, though thick, neatly fattened with thongs, and the bottoms lixed in with fmall wooden pegs. Others were fmaller, and of a more elegant fliape, fomewhat refembling a large oval butter-boat, without a handle, hut more ' ' '■' r'; • ■' ; i : ' '■ ■ Iballow, rtM 4oB CAPTAIN COOKS •••I ihallow, made from a piece of wood, or horny fub- fiance. Thefe laft were fometimes neatly carved. ' They had many little fquare bags, made of the fame gut with their outer frocks, neatly ornamented with very minute red feathers interwoven with it, in which were contain- ed foms very fine finews, and bundles of fmall cord, made from them, moft ingeniously plaited. They alfo brought many chequered balkets, fo clofely wrought as to hold water; fome wooden models of their canoes; a good many little images, four or five inches long, either of wood, or fluffed; which were covered with a bit of fur, and ornamented with fmall quill feathers, in imita- tion of their (belly beads, with hair fixed on their heads. Whether thefe might be mere toys for children, or held in veneration, as reprefenting their defeafed friends, and applied to fome fuperftitious purpofe, could not be determined. But they have many inflruments made of two or three hoops, or concentiic pieces of wood, with a crofs-bar fixed in the middle, to hold them by. To thefe are fixed a great number of dried barnacle- Ihells, with threads, which ferve as a rattle, and make a loud noif^, when tbey (bake them. This contrivance feems to be a fubilit^ute for the rattUng-bird at !^Jootka; and perhaps both of them are employed on the fame ^ccafion. * . i f J ^ .T With what tools they make their wooden utenfils, frames of boats, and other things, is uncertain; as the only one feen amoagft them was a kind of adze, made almofl after the manner of thofe of Otaheite, and the other iflands of the South Sea$. They have a great many iron kaives; fome of which are flraight ; others a little curved ; and fome very fmall ones, fixed in pretty long handles, with the bl,ades bent upward, like fome pf our fhoemakers inilruments. But they have flill knives of another fort, which are fometimes near two feet long, fliaped almoll like a dagger, with a ridge in the middle. Thefe they wear in (heaths of ilj^ins, hung by a thong round the neck, under their robe ; and they are, probably, only ufed as weapons; the other knw being apparently applied ., to other purpofts. Every .t:'- ^. ;' • r- .' ' . -v, • ,.,..: :. . .^ • thing THIRD VOYAGE. 409 thing they have, however, is as well and ingemoully made, as if they were furnilhed with the moft complete tool-chelli and their fcwing, plaiting of finews, and and fmall work on their little bags, may be put in com- petition with any the molt delicate manufadures found in any part of the known world. In fliort, confidering the rude uncivilifed Hate in which thcfe people are, their Northern (ituation, amidft a country perpetually cover- ed with fnow, and the wretched materials they have to work with, it appears, that their invention and dex- terity, in all manual works, is at lead equal to that of any other nation. The food which they they were feen to eat, was dried fiih, and the flefli of fome animals, either broiled or roafted. Some of the latter that" was brought, feem- ed to be bear's flefli, but but with a fifliy tafte. They alfo eat the longer fort of fern- root, mentioned at Nootka, either baked, or drefled in fome other way : and fome were feen to eat freely of a fubftance which was fuppofed to be the inner part of th'j pine bark. Their drink is moft probably v\ater; for in their boats ihey brought fnow in the wooden veflels, which they fwallowed by mouthfuls.- Perhaps it could be carried with lefs trouble, in thefe open veflels, than water itfelf. Their method of eating feems decent and cleanly ; for they always took care to feperate any dirt that might adhere to their vidluals. And though they fometimes did eat the raw fat of fome lea animal, they cut it care- fully into mouthfuls, with their fmall knives. The fame might be faid of their perfons, which to appear- ance, were always clean and decent, without greafe or dirt; and the wooden veflels, in which their victuals were probably put, were kept in excellent order; as well as their boats, whic'h were neat and free from lum- ber. Their language feems difficult to be underftood at firft; not from any indiftindlnefs or confufvon in their words and founds, but from the various fignifi cations they have. V»5h iS n Fff Bcfidcs 4IO CAPTAIN COOKS Befides thofe animal, which were feen at Nootka» there are feme in this place whichfare not found there; Ibch as, the white bear; of whofe fkins the natives brought fevaral pieces, and feme entire fkins of cubs; from which their fize coald not be determined. There was alfo the wolverine, or quickhatch, -which liad very bright colours; a larger fort of ermine than the com- mon one, which is the fame as at Nootka, varied with a brown colour, and with fcarcely any black on its tail. The natives alfo brought the ikin of the head of fome very large anima! j but it could not pofitively be deter- mined what it was; though from the colour and fliaggi- nefs of the hair, and its unlikenefs to any other land animal, it might probably be that of the large male urfine feal, or Tea bear. But one of the mofl beautiful fkins, and which feems peculiar to this place, is that of a fmall animal about ten inches long, of a brown or rufty colour on the back, with a great number of ob- fcure whitifli fpecks; and the fides of a blueifti afli colour, alfo with a few of thefe fpecks. The tail is not above a third of the length of its body, and is covered with hair of a whitifli colour at the edges, it is no doubt the fame with thofe called fpotted field mice, by Mr. Stffihlin, in his fliort account of the New Northern Archipelago. But whether they be really of the moufe kind, or a fquirrel, could not be told, for want of per- fect ikins; though Mr. Anderlbn was inclined to think that it is the fame animal defcribed under the name of the Cafon marinot, by Mr. Pennant. The number of ikins found here, points out the great plenty of thefe ieveral animals jufl mentioned; but it is remarkable, neither the fkins of the moufe nor of the common deer were to be feen. Of the birds mentioned at Nootka, were found here only the white-headed eagle; the (hag; the alcyon, or great king-fiftier, which had very fine bright colours; and the huming-bird, which came frequently about the lliip, while at anchor; though it can fcarcely live here in the winter, which mud be very fevere. The water fowl were geefe, a fmall fort of duck, almofl like that . I If 1 'i mentioned THIRD VOYAGE. 411 mentioned at Kerguelen's Land; another fort which no one knew; and Ibme of the black feapyes, with red bills, which were found at Van Diemcn's Land and New Zealand. Some of the people who went on (bore, killed a gooie, a Inipe, and fome plovers. But though, upon the whole, the water fowl were pretty numerous, efpecially the ducks and geefe, which frequent the fliore, they were fo (hy, that it was fcarcely poflible to get within Qiot; fo that they obtained a very fmall fupply of them as a refrefliment. Their metals were copper and iron; both which, particularly the latter, were in fuch plenty, as to con- ftitute the points of moft of the arrows and lances. The ores, with which they painted themfelves, were a red, brittle, unftuous ochre, or iron-ore, not much unlike cinnabar in colour; a bright blue pigment; and black lead. Each of thefe feems to be very Icarce, as they brought very fmall quantities of the firft and laft, and Teemed to keep them with great care. -> Few vegetables of any kind were feen; and the trees which chiefly grew here, were the Canadian and fpruce pine, and fome of them tolerably large. The beads and iron found amongll tliefe people, leftt- no doubt, t.iat they muft have received them from fome civilized nation. It yvix6 pretty certain, from cir- cumftiinces already met?tioned, that Captain Cook's people were the firft Europeans with whom they had ever communicated diredly ; and it remains only to be decided, from what quarter they had got our manufac- tures, by intermediate conveyance. And there cannot be the leaft doubt of their having received thele articles, through the intervention of the more inland tribes, * from Hudfon's Bay, or the fettlers on the Canadian -^i;- lakes; unlets it can be luppofed (which however is lefs likely) that the Ruffian traders, from Kamlchatka, -^ have already extended their traffic thus far; or at leaft that the natives of their moft Eafterly Fox Iflands com- ' , municate along the coaft, with thole of Prince William'.s -^^ Sound, !nf//'^jrU Vii . vjl Fff2 As 411 CAPTAIN COOK S As to the copper, thefe people feem to procure it themfelves, or at mod it paflcs through very few hands to them ; for they ufed to exprefs it being in a (uffici- ent quantity amongd them, when they oifered any to barter, by pointing to their weapons; as if to fay, that having fo much ot this metal of their own they wanted no more. " It is, however, remarkable," fays Captain Cook, " if the inhabitants of this Sound be fupplied with Eu- ropean articles, by way of the intermediate traffic to the Eaft coaft, that they fhould, in return, never have given to the more inland Indians any of their fea-otter ikins; which would certainly have been feen, fome time or other, about Hudfon's Bay. But, as far as I know, that is not the cafe; and the method of account- ing for this, muft be by taking into confideration the very great diftance; which, though it might not pre- vent European goods coming fo far, as being fo un- common, might prevent the ikins, which are a com- mon article, from paffing through more than two or three different tribes, who might ufe them for their own cloathing: and fend others, which they efteemed lefs valuable, as being of their own animals, Eaftward, till they reach the traders from Europe." CHAP. VI. ^^^ ^^ K^ J ■ m =i I i I , ./' , Jpijcovery of Cook*s River. — Reflexions on this Difcoverj, ^ • —Pojfejion taken of the Country and Paver, in ///> ■" Majejifs name. — A beautiful bird defcribed. — Conjec- tures concerning a RuJJian Letter brought on board bj y- : one of the Natives. — PiSlurefqite Appearance of a vol- •'" cano. — Second vifit from a Native. — Providential . Efcape. — Arrival at the Ifland of OonalafJika, and In- ■^^^ tercourfe zvith the Natives. ^^ A FTER leaving Prince" William's Sound, on the ' JLjL 20thof May, 1778, Captain Cook fleered S.W. as the coaft lay; and, on the 21ft, difcovered a lofty firomontory, which he named Cape Elizabeth, and •^ ^ ' ' ' •: '. ,,,^ ' which ?;•**- THIIW> VOYAGE. 413 which at firft, he miftook for the weftern extremity of Aiucrica. But he loonfe faw more land to the wcftward, and found that this, with that which he had before fup- pofed to be the weft cape of America, were the two boundaries of the entrance into a very large river, up which he failed above 70 leagues, betore he was abfo- lutely certain it was not a ftreight which led into the northern ocean. This river has fince been named Cook's River, by the exprels command of Lord Sandfr* " If the dlfcovcry," fays Captain Cook, " of this great river, which promilesto vie with the moft confiderabla ones already known to be capable of exienfjve inland navigation, fliould prove of ufe either to the preftnt, or to any future age, the time we fpent in it ought to be the lefs regretted. But to us who had a much greater obje<^ in view, the delay thus occafioned was an eflen- tial lofs. The leafon was advancing apace. We knew not how far we might have to proceed to the South j and we were now convinced, that the continent of America extended farther to the Weft than, from the modern moft reputable charts we had reafon to expedt. This made the exiftence of a pallage into Baffin's, or Hudfon's Bay lefs probable; or, at leaft, (hewed it to be of greater extent. It was a latisfadtion to me, however, to refledt, that, if I had not examined this very coniiderable inlet, it would have been affumed by fpeculativc fabricators of Geography, as a tad, that > it communicated with the fea to the North, or with Baffin's or Hudfon's Bay io the Eaft; and been marked, perhaps, in future maps of the world, with greater precilion, and more cernain figns of reality, than the invifibie, becauie imaginary, 8; 3 aits of de Fuca and de Fonte." Before Captain Cook quitted ibis river, he fent Lieu*- tenant King, with two armeu b^ats, with orders to land on a point of land, on tl.e S- E. fide of the river; to dilplay the flag there; to take {JiQre figns, the caqocs dropped aftern, and Jfft the Difcovery. No one on board had any fufpicion . X th^t THIRD VOYAGB. 415 that the box contained any thing till after the departure of the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, and a piece of paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which fomething was written in the Ruffian language, as was luppofed. The date 1778 was prefixed to it; and, in the body of the written note, there was a re- ference to the year 1776. Not one being learned enough to decypher the alphabet of the writer, his nu- merals marked fufficiently that others had preceded us in vifiting this dreary part of the globe, who were uni- ted to us by other ties befides thole of our common na- ture; and the hopes of foon meeting with fome of the Ruffian traders, could not but give a fenfible fatisfac- tion to thofe who had, for fuch a length of time, been converfant with the favages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the continent of North America. '-'" ' "^ . " " '- Captain Clarke was, at firft, of opinion; that fome Ruffians had been fliipwrecked here; and that theic unfortunate perfons, feeing the (hip pafs, had taken this method to inform them of their fituation. Im- prefTed with humane fentiments, on fuch an occafion, he was delirous of (lopping till they might have time to join the (liips. But no fuch idea occurred to Captain Cook, to whom it feemed obvious, that if this had been the cafe, it would have been the firft llep taken by fuch (hipwrecked perfons, in order to fecure to themfelves, and to their companions, the relief they could not but be folicitous about, to fend fome of their body off to the (hips in the canoes. For this reafon,, he rather thought that the paper contained a note of information, left by f me Ruffian traders, who had lately been amongft thefe illands, to be delivered to the next of their countrymen who fhould arrive ; and that the natives, feeing the (liips pafs, and fuppo- fing them to be Ruffians, had refolved to bring off the note, thinking it might induce them to (lop. Fully convinced of this, Captain Cooke did not (lay to en- quire any farther into the matter; but made fail, and ftood away to the weft ward. .'-.via.. ■••'^^ -'''-,■'- ■,-•*•■ i t '' ."i ■'*".''''-'. ty .-..■ - On cook's 416 CAPTAIN On the 21(1:, at noon. Captain Cook found bimfelf *wo leagues diftant from Halibut Ifland. Rocks and 'breakers now forced him fo far from the continent, that •he had but a dfftant view of the coaft between Rock Point and Halibut Ifland. Over this and the adjoinino- iflands he could fee the main land covered with fnow; 'but, particularly, fome hills, whofe elevated tops were ■feen towermg above *the clouds, to a moft ftupendous •height. The moft fouth Wcfteriy of thefe hills was difcovered to have a -volcano, which continually threw up vaft columns of black fmoke. It ftands not far from -the coaft; and in the latitude of 54 deg. 48 min. and the longitude of *i 95 deg. 45 min. ItBot there - was now afrelh proof of it; for this vifitor wore u pair of THIRD VOYAGE. 417 of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, or fluff', under the gut, (Lirt or frock of his own country. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox Ikin, and fome fifliing implements or harpoons; the heads of the fliaft of which, for the length of a foot, or more, were neatly made of bone, as a walking-cane, and carved. He had with him a bladder, full of fomething which was fuppofed to be oil; for he opened it, took a mouth- ful, and then faftened it again. On the 26th, although it was day-light, the wea- ther was fo thick and foggy, that they could not fee a hundred yards before them; but, as the wind was nov moderate, the captain ventured to run. At half pad four, he was alarmed at hearing the found of breakers on his larboard bow. On heaving the lead, he found twenty-eight fathoms water; and the next call, twenty- five. He immediately brought the fliip to, and anchor- ed in this laft depth; calling to the Difcovery, which was dole by, to anchor alfo. A few hours attcr, the fog having cleared away a little, it aj^peared that he had efcaped imminent danger. He found himfelf three quarters of a mile from the North Eaft fide of an ifland, vnich extended from South by Vv'eft half Weft, to North by Eaft half Eaft, each extreme about a league diftant. Two elevated rocks, the one bearing South by Eaft, and the other Eaft by Souih, were about half a league each from the Ihips, and about the lame dif- tance from each other. There were feveral breakers about them; and yet, providence had, in the dark, condudled the (hips through, between thefe two rocks, which we Ihould not have ventured in a clear day, and to fuch an anchoring place, that .ve could not have chofen a better. ; • ■ > ,. , - . , . , , The ifland, to which they were conduced in this providential manner, lies on the South, fide of Oona- ialhka, another ifland, wiiere they afterwards found an excellent harbour, called by the natives Samga- nooda. Here they watered, but found no wood. OonalaQika is one of the numerous group of iflands, which extend for a confiderable diftance towards the 19 ^ gg s. W, 4^8 CAPTAIN cook's S. W. from a very projeding cape on the continent of Artierica, which lies in latitude 54 and half deg. N, and, by Captain Cook, is named Alaflika. In ap- proac'iing this ifland, they favv fome natives towing in two whales, which it was fuppofed they had juft kil- led. A few of them, now and then, came off to the (hips, and bartered a few tricing things with the people, but never remained above a quarter of art hour at a time. On the contrary, they rather feemed fliy ; and yet the crew could judge that they were no ftrangers 'to veflcls, in fome degree like theirs. They behaved with a degree of politenefs unknown to favage tribes. While the fhips lay in the harbour of Samganooda, feveral of the natives came off, each in a canoe, and bartered a few fifhing implements for tobacco. One of them, a young man, overfet his canoe^ while along- iide of one of the boats. Our people caught hold of him, but the canoe went adrift, and being picked up by another, was carried afhore. ' The youth, by this accident, was obliged to come into the (hip j and he went down into ♦^he cabin, upori the firft invitation, wiiliout expreffing the lead reludance, or uneafincfs. His drefs was an upper garment like a (hirt, niiade of the large gut of fea animals, probably the whale; and an under garment of the fame fhape, made of the fkin of birds, dreffed with the feathers on, and neatly fe wed together; the feathered fide being worn next to the fkin. It vva:- mended, or patched, with pieces of filk fluff; and his cap was ornamented with two or three forts of glafs beads. His own clothes being wet. Cap- tain Cook gave him others, in which he dreffed him- felf, with as much eafe as the captain could have done. From his behaviour, and that of fome others, he was convinced that thcfe people were no llrangers to Euro- peans, and to fome of their cuftoms. But there was fomething in the (liips that greatly excitt-d their curio- fity; foriuch as could not Come off in canoes, affem- bled on the neighbouring hills to look at them. - Soon after they anchored, a native brought on board fuch another note as had been given to Captain .: Gierke. :ns- THIRD VOYAGE. 419 He prefcnted it to Captain Cook ; but it was vvrittea in the Ruffian language, which, as alieudy obferved, none of them could read. As it could beofnoufeto Captain Cook, and might be of coni'cquence to others, he returned it to the bearer, and dilmilied him with a few prefents; for which he expreficd his thanks, by making leveral low bows as he retired. . , In walking, next day, along the fliore. Captain Cook met with a group of natives of both fexes, feated on the grafs, at a repaft, confiding of raw fi(h, which they feemed to eat with as much relifh as we fliould a turbot, ferved up with the richeft fauce. Thick fogs, and a contrary wind, detained him tiJl the 2d of July ; which afforded an opportunity of acquiring fome know- ledge of the country, and of its inhabitants. Captain Cook left Oonalafhka on the 2d of July^ 1778, and proceeded Northward. On the 3d of Auguft, he loft Mr. Anderfon^ furgeon, who had been linger- ing under 4 eonfumption upwards of a year. To per- petuate the memory of this valuable man, to whom he had been indebted for many judicious obfervations in natural hiftory, an ifland difcovered foon after his de- ceafe, was called Anderfon*s Ifland. On the 9th Cap- tain Cook came in iight of the moll weilerly point of all America hitherto known, to wl ii he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales. This ^d\K is fituated in lat.. 65 deg. 46 min. and in the long, of jyi ^eg. 45 min. Hence we flood over to a point of land, which fbrms the ealtern extremity of the continent of Alia, diflant from Cape Prince of Wales about 13 leagues. This, as it appeared in the ftquel, is the country of the Tf hur- iki, explored by Bcering in 1728. Captain Cook anchored on the S. W. lide of this Cape, in a bay, to which, it being the ipth of Auguft, he gave the name of St. Lawrence.. « .^iti-.-rr «r.,K ...,a; . .>. -...!.-/. * As we were {landing into this bay, we perceived on the North fliore, a village, and lomc people, whom the fight of the fhips feemed to have thrown into confu- fionor fear. We could plainly ice perfons running up the country with burdens upon their backs. At thefe habitations C^gg 2 420 CAPTAIN COOK S habitations we propofcd to land, and accordingly, went with three armed boats, accompanied by fome of the officers. About 30 or 40 men, each armed with a fpontoon, a bow and arrows, flood drawn on a rifing ground clofe by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down towards the (hip, and were fo polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low bows. We returned the civility, but this did not in- fpirc them with fufficient confidence to wait for our landing; for the moment we put the boats afliore, they retired. The captain followed them afliore without arms ; and by figns and gefture,> prevailed on them to flop, and to receive fome trifling prefents. In return for thefe they gave us two fox-ikins, and a couple of fea-horfe teeth. They feemed very fearful and cautious j exprefling their defire, by figns, that no more of our people fliould be permitted to come up. On my laying my hand on the (hculder of one of them, he ftarted back feveral paces. In proportion as I advanced, they returned backwards; always in the attitude of being ready to make ufe of their fpears; while thofe on the rifing ground fliood ready tc fupport them with their arrows. Inienfibly, myfeU, and two or three of my companions, got in amongft them. A few beads diftributed to thofe about us, foon created a kind of confidence ; fo that they were not alarmed when a few more of our people joined us; and, by degrees, a fort of traffic com- menced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, tlicv r,avc us fome of their cloathins;, and a few arrows. But notl. ng that we had to offer could induce them to part with a fpear or a bow. ThtTe they held in conllant reatlinefs, never once quitting them, except at one time, when four or five perfons laid theirs down, while they gave us a fong and a dance. And even then, they placed them in fuch a manner, that they could lay hold of them in an inflantj and, for their fecurity, they defired us tL lit down. .V-" ' • - The arrows were pointed with either bone or ftone, but. very few of them had barbb ; and fome had a . r ■ • round 'W THIRD VOYAGE. . 4II rcdnd plump point. Wiat ufe they may be applied to, we could not fay, unlefs to kill Imail animals, vvithout danrging the fkin. The bows were fuch as we had leen on the American coaft. The fpears or fpontoons, were of iron' or fleel, and European or Afiatic workmanlhip; in which no little pains 'lad been taken to ornanient them with carving, and inlayings of brais, and of a white metal. Thofe who flood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had the fpear flung over their right fiiouldcr by a leathern llrap. A leathern quiver, flung over their left flioulder, contained arrows; and iome of thele quivers were ex- tremely beautiful, beipg made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornamenfs. Several other things, and in particular their cloth- ing, Ihewed that they were poflTeffed of a degree of in- genuity, far turpaffing what one could expe<5t to find amongit lb Northern a people. All the Americans wc had feen fince our arrival on that coaft, were rather low of ftature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek bones. The people we now were amongll, tar from refembling them, had long vifages, and were flout and well made. In Qiort, they appeared to be quite 9. different nation. We faw neither women, nor chil- dren of either fex, nor any aged, except one man, who was bald headed, and he was the only one who carried, no arms. The others lecmed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark acrofs his face, which I did not fee in any others. All of them had their ears bored ; and feme had glafs beads hanging to them. Thele were the only fixed ornaments we law about them, for they wear none in the lips. This is another thing in which ' they differ trom the Americans we had lately leen. Their clothing confiiled of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the fliins of deer, dogs, feals, &c. and extremely well drefled ; fome with the hair or furs on; but others without it. The caps were made to fit the head very ciofe, and befides thefe caps, which moft .424 _i, CAPTAIN cook's moft of them wore, we got from them forne hoods, made of Ikins of dogs, that were large enough to cover both head and fhoulders. Their hair feemed to be black, but their heads were cither fliaved, or the hair cut clofe off; and none of them wore any beard. Of the few articles v/liich they got from us, knives and to- bacco were what tiiey valued niofl. <■■• fi./^ MvUiW. . -J p? We found the village com pofed both oftherfum- mer and their winter habitations. The latter are ex- fiiWy like a vault, the floor of which is funk below the furface of the earth; One of them, which we exa- nwned, was of an oval form, about 20 feet long, and 12 or more high. The framing was compofed of wood, and the ribs of whales, difpofed in a judicious manner, and bound together with fmaller materials of the fame fort. Over this framing is laid a covering of ftrong coarfe grafs; and again is covered with earth ; fo that on the outiide, the houfe looks like a little hillock, fupported by a wall of (tone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two fides, and one end. At the other end, the earth is raifed floping, to walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in f he top of the roof over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which I faw nothing but water. And at the end of each houfe was a vaulted room, which we took to be a ftore-room. After a ftay of between two and three hours with thefe people, Captain Cook returned to his Ihips, and weighing anchor, proceeded Northwardy keeping the coalt of America as near as poffible on board. On the 17th, we perceived a brightnefs in the Northern hori- zon, like that refiefled from ice, commonly called the blink, it was little noticed, from a i'uppofition that it was improbable they Hiouid meet with ice fo foon. And yet the (harpnefs of the air, and gloominefs of the weather, for two or three days pad, feemed to in- dicate a fudden change. About half an hour after, the fight of a large fidd of ice left them in no doubt about the caufe of the brightnefs of the horizon. About tialf pail two we tacked clofe to the edge of the ice, in t- , . 22 fathoms Third voyage. 42; %% fathoms water, being then in the hit. of 70 deg. 41 min. not being able to fland on any farther, for the ice was quite impenetrable, and extending from W. by S. to E. by N. as far as the eye could reach. Here were abundance of fea-horles* lome or> the water, but more upon the ice. The next day at noon, we were clofe to the edge of the ice, which was as compadl as a wall, and feemed to be 10 or 12 feet high at leaft. But farther North, it ap- peared much higher. Its furface was extremely rugged; and here and there we faw upon n pools of water. At this time they were three or four miles from the American coaft, which extended from S. to S. E. by E. The Eaftern extreme formed a point, which was much incumbered with ice, for which reafon it obtained the name of Ice Cape. Ifa lat. is 70 deg. 29 min. and its long. 198 deg. 20 min. On the 191:11, they found a good deal of drift ice about them, and the main ice was about 2 leagues to theN. At iialf pad one they got in with the edge of it. it was not fo compad as that which they had itti^ to the Northward 5 but it was too clofe, and in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the (hips through it. On the ice lay a prodigious number of fea horfes, and as they. were in want of frcQi frovifions, the boats from each fliip went to get fome. ,,, j,, ^,.,.^ y,;. , By feven in the evening, they had received onboard the Refolution nine of thefe animals i which, till now, they had fuppofed to be fea-cows, fo that th6y were not a little difappointed, efpecially foiiie of the feamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been feaffing their eyes for fome days paft. Nor would they have been difappointed now, nor have known the difference, if they had not happened to have one or two on board who had been at Greenland, and declared what animals they were, and that no one ever eat of them. But not- withftanding this, they lived upon them as long as they lafted ; and there were few on board who did not pre- fer them to fait meat. •. ^^ *,^ , ^ , '-: ^. . '■ '■■■■■ \ Tncy 424 CAPTAIN COOK S .» , '« .-.'A .tl They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the Ice, huddling one over the other hke Twine, and roar or bray very loud ; fo that in the night or foggy weatlier, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before we could iee it. We never found the whole herd afleep, fome being always upon the watch j thefe on the approach of the boat would wake thofe next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole herd would be awake prefently; but they were feldom in a hurry to get away, till they had been once fired at, then they would tumble the one over the other into the fea in the utmoft confufion. The female will de- fend the young to the very laft, at the expence of her own life, whether in the water or upon the ice. Nor will the young one quit the dam, though (he be dead, fo that if you kill one you are fure of the other. It is worth oblerving, that for feveral days we had frequently feen flocks of ducks flying to the fouthward. They were of two forts, the one much larger than the other. The largefl: were of a brown colour, and of the fmall fort, either the duck or drake was black and white, and the other brown. Does not this indicate that there muft be land to the North, where thefe birds firid flielter in the proper feafon to breed, and from whence they were now returning t^ a warmer climate ? . '-' From this day to the 29th, Captain Cook kept beat- ing along the edge of the ice, from the American to the Afiatic coaft, with intent, if poflibe, to penetrate it, and proceed to the Northward; but without effcdt. At one time, he was in a manner furrounded by the ice, and had no way left to cleiar it, but by ftanding to the Southward. Afterwards, having fallen in, with tlie main ice, they were directed how to keep along the e^e of it, by the roaring of the fea-horfes. On the 27th, Captain Cook went with the boats, to examine tht ftate of the ice. He found it confiding of loofe pieces, of various extent, and fo clofe together, that he could hardly enter the Outer edge with a boat; and it was as impoflible for the (hips to enter it, as if it liad been fo many rocks. He took particular notice, ; . ' ' that rfe TillRD VOYA •• Ou the 29th, Captain Cook proceeded Northward, as far as Cape North, on the coaft oi Afia ; this Cape he deterovined to weather, being convinced that the coaft beyond jt mud take a welteriy di red ion, as he . could fee no land to the Northward of it, though the horizon was then pretty clear. Being difappointed in this attempt, tlie captain now found that the feafon was fo far advanced^ and the time when the frofl was expe(!ied to fet in fo neai at hand, that he could not think it prudent to make any farther at tempi s to find, a paflage into the Atlantic this year, in any diredion. 18 Hh h His 426 CAPTAIN cook's ■ His attention^ therefore, was now dircfled to find out fomc place, where' he might bcfupplied with wood and water; and the fird objedt in his thoughts was, hdw he (hould fpend the winter, fo as to make fome improvement^ in Geography and Navigation, and at the fame time, be in a condition to return to the North in farther fearch of a pailage the enfuing' fummcr. ^tiioi^inhiioqvl) "R CHAP. VII. ^I'l' .''fti('j Y;lxn fr{Wyi i> '.a I Rehirn to the Southward — Bxirney's IJland — Pqfs the Eaftern Cape of AJia—Defcriptmi aniijitiiation of it— Arrival at Norton Sound — Inicfvieto tvith the • natives— Defer ipt ion of tht Rnffian fettlement at Oonalafka — Mowee andOwhyhee, tivo of the Sand- wich JjlandSydifcovercd — The natives refnfe to driiik '] fv gar-cane beer. -> uj br>iqrrjL»ij£ .it)V3v/ofl ,fn:jfiJi(> E AVING tlieft dreary regions of ioe and foow, Captaih Coolc now ftecrSl Southward, ^nd on tlifc 3hlr of Au^uft, 1778, pafled by a fmall ifland, about three leagues ftom tlie main, in the l»t, of 67deg. 45 mln.' The next day he came in light of a pretty Imty fifomdntory, in the lat. of 67 deg. 3'min. and in the long; of 188 deg. 1 1 min. He was now well affured, that'this was the country of the Tfchutfkii or the N. E. coaft of Afia, and that this Cape was the limit of Befering's voyage in 1 728.- rtf t^niMil jiorit •I,■^i 5fi,.ov>*v Od the! 2d of September, they had fair weather atid luh-fliinc, of which, for near five days before, they had been deprived ; as they ranged along the coaft, at the diftahce of ftfur miles, they faw fevefal of the inhabitaiits, and feme of their habitations, which look- ed like little hillocks of earth. In the eWining'they paf- fed t'he Eaftern Cape-j the fame point of land which they had paffed' on thie nth of Auguft; and ixptw Whifch the coaft changes its diredion, and tends S, W. 'fh^ywho believe imphcit^y in Mr. Stsehlih^s map, thbtighlt ittheii to b^ the Eaft point" of his Wand A^fchkdj bdtr they were latbfiedy by this t^m^, that *' - /r.| H- it TglRD VOYAGE. , ^IJ \\ could be no other than the Eaflern promontory of Afia; and, probably, the proper Tfchukotikoi Nofsj though the promontory to which Beering gave that name, is farther to the S. W. However Captain Cook, concluded, as Beering did before him, that this is the rnolt Eallerly point of Afia. It is a peninfula of con- liderable height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of land. It leems a fteep rocky cliff next the feaj and off the point are fomc rocks like fpires. After palling this Cape, Captain Cook fleered for the Northern point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which he had anchored on the loth of Auguft. He reached it the next morning, and faw fome of the inhabitants of the place where he had feen them before, as well as feveral others on the oppofite fide of the bay. None of them, however, attempted to come off to the (hips, which he thought a little extraordinary, as the weather was favourable enough j and thofe whom he had lately vifited, had no reafon that he could think of, to dif- jikc their vifitory. Thefe people mufl be the Tfcliut- iki, a nation that the Ruflians had not been able to conquer J and from the whole of their condudt with us, it appears that they have not brought them under fiib- jediion, though it is obvious they muft have a, trade with the Ruffians, either diredly, or by the means of ibme neighbouring nation j as we cannot otherwife account tor their being in the poffeflipn.of the Sppn- tdons, in particular, of which we took notice. *^" As Captain Cook gave the name of St. LAwrence.to this bay, on account of bis having anchored in it on the loth of Augufl. This bay is, at le^ft, five leagues broad at the entrance, and four leagues deep, narrow • towards the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably frWcli idieltered from the. fea-winds, provided there be ^^fufficient depth of water for Ihips. The captain, how- ,: ever, dic| not wait to examine it, although he was vpry ^^jdefirfous of finding an ha,rbour in thofe parts, to whkh *! he might rcfort next fpring. But he wapted pna.vyhere li'Woodwas to be got 4 aoartick,. ii?iWhijqii he,]^ellkijew ^^' Hh h a this 4'2ft CAPtAII^ coot's this place to be deficient. In the afternoon, in the diredion of their courfe, they faw what was firft taken for a rock, but it proved to be a dead whale, which Ibme natives of the Afiatic coall had killed, and were towing, adiore. They teemed to conceal themrdvcs behind the fifli, to avoid being fe^n ; but this was unneceH'ary, as the captain purfued his courfe,. without taking any notice of them. ..,. .*;.u lo ■'jaa.n, o( On the 4th of September, he ceafed to follow the diredioa of the coafl, as he found that it tended wefterly, towards the gulf of Anadir, into which he had no inducement to go. He therefore (leered to the Southward, and in the evening came in fight of Beering*a Ifland of St. Lawrence. He was' now about twelve leagues from the Southernmoft point of the main land, which bore South, 83 min. Wefi:. This he took to be the point which Beering calls the Eafi: point of Suchot- Iki, or Cape Tfchgkotikoi ; a name, which he gave it with propriety, becaufe it was from this part ot the coafl; that the natives came off" to him,- who call them- felves of the nation of the Tfchutfki. Captain Cook makes its lat. to be 64 deg. 13 min. and its long. r86 deg. 36 itiin.. , ^ uuui -ji.wui ipjiujiivw 'i:,»(ii ki.,. iji:- Being thus perfe<5kly convinced tliat he vvds 6n the coaft of Afia, and not on the Kaft tide of the great iiland called Alafchka, he now ftood over to the coall of America, in hopes of finding it there. He was rather induced to fpend fomc time in fearch of this iiland, as it is reprefented to abound with wood, which was great- ly wanted by both fliips. On the bth, he arrived' at a Sound,, laying between two poiftts of land, one of v\hich to the North, he named Cape Derby, and the other to the South, Cape Denbigh. T^iis inlet, which {in honoar of Sir Fletcher Norton, now Lord Grantham) he named Norton Sound, extends to the northward as far as hit. 64 deg. 54 min. Here they found water,: and plenty of drilt wood. He (laid here till the 17th, occafionally landing, not only to procure wpod and water, but to refrelh the pien, who were alternately fent on Qiore to fi^cd ontha .vh - ' berries. 1^HIRI> VOYAGE. 42f> fterncs, and to cdt brooms, of which they were in want,- and the branches of fpruce trees for beer. He hkcvvife fent Lieutenant King, witli a party of men, in two boats, to explore the found, and to land on the adja- cent heights. From the refult of Lieutenant King's obfervaticns, he was perfedly fatisfied that Mr. Staihhn's riland was quite injaginary; and, in the fcquel, he found that the name of Aiufchka is given both by the Ruffians and natives f^* the American continent in gene- ral, although it pFoperly bcK ngs to a very projec^ting cape adjoining to the iiland of Oonamaka. •, •'• -^ ^ During Captain Cook's fJay in this Sound, he had fome intercourfc with the natives. A family of them came near to the piaee where we were taking off wood. I know not hov/ many there were at firll; but I only faw tlye hulband, the wife, and the child; and a fourth perfon, that bore the liuman fliapc, and that- was all ;■ for he was the mofl: deformed cripple 1 had ever lecn or heard of. The other man was almoll blind ; and nei- ther h* nor his wife, were fuch good looking people as we had fometimes feen amonglt the natives of this coart. The under lips of both were bored ; and they had in their polFeffion foaie inch glals beads as 1 had met' with before am ongft their ncigh.bours. But iron was their beloved article. For lour knives, which we had made out of an old iron hooj?, I got from them near 400 pounds weight of fid), which they had caught or^ this or the preceding day. Having fioiOied the ncceflliry occupations at Nor- ton Sound, Captain Cook thought it high time to think of leaving thele Northern regions, and to retire to fome place during the winter, where he might pro- cure refreihments for his people, and a fmall fupply of provifions. Pctropaulowfka, or the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtfchatka, did not appear likely to furnifli either the one or the other, for fo large a number of men. He had, befides other reafons lor not repairing thither at this time. The firft, and on which all others depended, was the great diflike to lie ifla<^tive for fix or levcn months, which would have been ^^ivtTU ; ■ the I -45o CA?TAllt cook's the neceffary cohlequence of- v.intering in any" 6r tliefcj ' Northern parts. ' No place was fo conveniently within ' his reach, where he could expeft to have his wants relieved as the Sandwkh Iflands. To them therefore, he determined to proceed j after firft endeavouring to find a harbour on the continent of America, to the ' iSouthward, where he could mejct witb^ farther fupply of water* -:•■'. ,^ . • „-..u i, :_. :, ■''^i Leaving Norton Sound on the 17th, Capt^-in Cook fucceffively faw Befborough Ifland, Stuarfs Ifland, Gierke's Ifland, Gore*s Ifland, and Pinnacle's Ifland. But neither among the(e, nor along the coaff, could he find an harbour, where he could procure the wilhed- I'or fupply of water. It is here to be obferved, that no land was to be kta to the Southward of Point Shallo.v Water, which he judged to lie in the lat. of 63 deg. fo that between this iat. and Shoal Nefs, in the lat. of 6o deg. the coaft is entirely unexplored. ' At length, on the 2d of Gdoberj he again arrived at the ifland of Oonalaflikaj and hauled into a bay, known by the name of Egoochfliack, lying ten miles to the Weftward of the harbour of, Samganocda, where hs Jvad formerly anchcw.'ed ^ but finding very deep water in this bay, he was glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived here, vifited them at different times^ bringing with them dried falmon and other filh, which they exchanged with the feamen for tobacco. ; But a few days before every ounce of tobacco that was in the fliip, had been diftributed among them ; and the quanfity was not half fufficient to anlwer their demands, Notwithftanding this, fo improvident is an Englif]\ (ailor, that they were as proiufe in making their bar- gains, as if they had- now arrived at the port in Virgi- Ilia J by which means, in lefs than 48 hours, the value of this article of ,bai:t,er w*i§ Ipwcred above iqoc percent. *^"•^[■ ' "- -- ' f '•; On the 3d they anchored in Samganooda harbour; and the carpenters were employed in repairing a leak, vhich the Refolution had fprung, in her paiiage from , ttorton Sound. The vegetables that had been here • met and of Some the R as belo taken, young ihefe, than a Ruflia THIRD VOYAGB. 43 J' met with, were now moftly in a ftate of decay ; fo that they were but little benefited by the great quantities of berries every where' found afliore. That they might avail themfelves as much as poflible of this uieful re* frefhilient, one third of the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. Confiderable quantities of them were alfo procured from the natives. If there were any fign^ of the fcurvy in either fliip, thefe berries, and the ule of fpruce beer, which they had to drink every day, tffedually eradicated them. The filhery iikewife enabled . them to make a confiderable faving of their fea provi- fions. And, at this ifland, the captain found a Ruf- fian fettlement or failory, for the procuring of the Ikins of fca-otiers. Mutual civilities palled between the Captain and the Chiefs of this fettlement; from whom he procured much ufeful information; and by whole means he difpatched a letter to the Lords of the Ad- miralty (inclofing a Chart of all the Northern coaft.he hadvifited) which was to be forwarded the. enfuing, fpring to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtfclmtka, and. by him the following winter to PeterfbwgJi. Captain Cook continued at Oonalafhka till the 26tb. ofOftober, 1778. But before we proceed farther in the Voyage, we (hall give his account of feveral intered- ing particulars relative to this ifland. After we became acquainted with thefe Ruffians, fome of our gentlemen, at different times, vifited tlicir fettlement on the ifland; where they always met wit h. a hearty welcome. This fettlement confided of a dwel- ling-houfe, and two ftore-houfes. And, befides the lluflians, there was a number of the Kamtfchadales, and of the natives, as fervants orflaves, to the former. Some others of the natives, who feemed independent of the Ruffians, lived at the fame place. Such, of them as belonged to the Ruffians were all males;, and they are taken, or perhaps, purchased from their parents when young. There were at this time, about twenty ot. thefe, who could be looked upon in no other light than as children. They all live in the (sixvie houfc; the Rufliansat the upper end ; the JCamtfciiadales in the middle j .43 i CAPTAIN COOkV niiclJIe; and the natives at the lower end j whe4*e is fix- ■cd a large boiler for preparing their food, which confids chiefly of what the fca produces, with the addition of wild roots and berries. There is little difference between the firli and lafl table,, bcfides what is produced by cooker)', in which the RulTians have the art to make indifferent things palitablc, Ihave eaten whale's flefli of their dretiing, which I thought very good; r.nd they niake a kind of pan-pudding of falnion roe, beaten uo fine, and fryed^ that is no bad fuccedanuni for bread. They may, now and .then, tafle real bread, or have a diih in tyhich flour is an ingredient ; but this can only be an occafional luxury. If we except the juice of ber- ries, which they fip at their meals, they have no other liquor befides pure water ; and it leems to be very happy for them that they have nothing flronger. '■ As the ifland fupplies them with food, Co 'vt does, in a greaat meafure, wi-th clothing. This confith chiefly oi' Ikins, and is perhaps the beft they could have. The Upper garment is made like our waggoner's frock, and reaches ^s Jlow as the knee. Befides this, they wear a v;aiftcoat 0r two; a pair of breeches^ a fur cap; and a pair of bbots, the folcs and upper leatlvers of which are of Ruffian leather ; but the legs are made of a kind of ftrong gut. Their two Chiefs, Ifmyloffand Ivanoviich, wore each a calico frock; and they, as well as feme others, had fliirts, which were of illk. Theie, perhaps, were the only part of their drefs not made among tliem- felves. There are Ruffians fettled upon all the [>rincipal iflands between OonalaOika and Kamlchatka, for the Ible purpofe of collediing fur?. This great objedl is the fea beaver or otter. 1 never heard tlvem enquire after any other animal; though thofs?, whofe fkins are of inferior valu.e, are alio made part of their cargoes. 1 never thought to a'fk how long they have had a fettle- rtient upon Oonala^rka, and the neighlx)uring ifles ; but to judge from the great fubjedion the natives are under, this cannot be of a very late date. The Ruf- iiaiis began to frequent Oqnalaflika in 1762. All thefe t ------^ furies THIRD VdYAGE. 435 furies are relieved, from time to time> by othisfs. Thole we met with, arrived here fro n Okotfki in 1776, arid are to return in 178 15 fo that their flay at the ifland will be four years at leaft. It is now time to give fome account of the native in- habitants. To all appearance, they are the rhdft peace- able, inoffenfivc people, I ever met with. Arid, as to honefty, they might ferve as a pattern to the mibft tivi* lifed nation upon earth. But, from what 1 faw of their neighbours, with whom the Ruffians had nto con^ neftion, I doubt vvhetberthis was their original difpd- fiton J and rather think that it has been the conlequence of their prefent ftate of iubjedion. Inci'eed, if fome of our gentlemen did not underftand the Ruffians, they had been obliged to make fome fevere examples, be- fore they could bring the iflanders into any order. If there were feverities infli6led at firft, the beft apology for them is, that they have produced the happieft, con- fequences; and, at prelent, the greateft harmony tub- fifts between the two nations. The natives haVe thcit own Chiefs in each ifland, and feem to enjoy liberty and property unmolefted. But whether or no they are tributaries to the Ruffians, we could never find out. There was fome reafon to think that they are. ^ Thef'" people are rather low of ftature, but pluriip and well (haped, with rather ftiort necks; fwarthy, with chubby faces, black eyes, fmall beards, and long, ilraight, black hair, which the men wear io6fe be- hind, and cut before, but the women tie it up in a bunch. Their drefs has been occafionally meritlbhed. Both fexes wear the fame fafhion; the only difference is in the materials. The women's frock is made of the feal ikin; and that of the men, of the fkins of birds, both reaching below the knee. This is the whole drefs of the women. But over the frock, the men wear ano- ther made of the gut, which refills water; and has a hood to it, which draws over the head. Some of them wear boots ; and all of them have a kind of oval fnout. cd cap, made of wood, with a rim to admit the head. 19 Ii» Thefe ^>- 434 CAPTAIN COOK 8 Thefe caps are dyed with green and other colours} and round the upper part of the rim, are ftuck the long briftles of fome fea animal, on which are ftrung j^laS beads J and on the front is a fmall image or two made of bone. They make ufe of no paint, but the women punc- ture their faces llightly , and both men and women bore the under lip, to which they fix pieces of bone. But it is as uncommon at Oonalalhka, to fee a man with this ornament, as to fee a woman without it. Some fix beads to the upper lip, under the noltriis ; and all of them hang ornaments in their ears. Their food confifts of fifli, fea-animals, birds, roots, and berries; and even of fea weed. They dry large quantities of fi(h in fummer, which they lay up in Tmall huts for winter ufe ; and, probably, they preferve roots and berries for the fame time of fcarcity. They eat almofc every thing raw. Broiling and boiling were the only methods of cookery that 1 law them make ufe of; and the firft was very probably learnt from the Ruffians. Some have got little brafs kettles ; and ihofe who have not, make one of a flat ftone, with fides of clay, not unlike a (landing pye. I was once prcfent, when the chief of Oonalafhka, made his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, juft caught. Before any was given to the chief, two of his fervants eat the gills, without any other dreffing, be- fides fqueezing out the flime. This done, one ot them ^ut off the head of the fi(b, took it to the fea and walhed it, then came with it and fat down by the chief, prft pulling up fome grafs, upon a part of which the head was laid, and the reft was ftrewed before the chief. He then cut large pieces off the cheeks, and laid thefe within the reach of the great man, .who fwallowed them with as much fatisfadion as we fhould do raw oyfters. When he had done, the remains of the head were cut in pieces, and given to the attendants, who tore off the meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bones like ^0 many dogs. < . .W' As THIRD VOYAGE. 435 As thefe people ufe no paint, they are not fo dirty in their perfons as the favages who thus befmear thcm- felves; but they are full as loufy and filthy in their houfes. Their method of building is as follows; they dig, in the ground, an oblong fquare pit, the length of which leldom exceeds fifty feet, and breadth twenty; but in general the dimenfions are fmaller. Over this excavation they form the roof of wood, which the fea throws aftiore. This roof is covered firft with grafs, and then with earth ; fo that the outward appearance is like a dunghill. In the middle of the roof, towards each end, is left a fquare opening, by which the light is admitted ; one of thefe openings being for this pur- pofe only, and the other being alfo uled to go in and out by, with the help of a ladder, or rather a poft, with fteps cut in it. In fome houfes there is another en- trance below 5 but this is not common. - Round the fides and end of the huts, the families (for feveral are lodged together) have their feparate apartments, where they fleep, and fit at work; not upon benches, but in a kind of a concave trench, which is dug all round the infide of the houfe, and covered with mats ; fo that this part is kept tolerably decent. But the middle of the houfe, which is common to all the families, is far otherwife. For although it be covered with dry grai's, it is a receptacle for dirt of every kind, and the place for the urine trough ; the itench of^which is not mend- ed by raw hides, or leather being almoft continually fteeped in it. Behind and over the trench, are placed the few efFedts they are poflelTed of; fuch as their cloth- ing, mats and fkins. Their houfehold furr/iture confirts of bowls, fpoons^ buckets, cans, matted bafkets, and perhaps a Ruffian kettle or pot. All thefe utenfils are very neatly made, and well formed ; and yet we faw no other tools among them bet the knife and the hatchet; that is, a fmall flat pif e of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into a crooKed wooden handle. Thefe were the only infl:ru- ments we met with there made of iron. For although the Ruffians live amongff them, we found much lefs of I i i a this 43^ CAFTAiN cook's this metal in their poileilion, than we ha^ met with in the poffeffion of the tribes on the American continent, who had never Teen, nor perhaps had any intercourfe with the Ruflians, Probably a few beads, a little tobacco and fnuff, purchafed all they bad to fp^re. There are few, if any of them, that do not fmoke and chew tobacco, and take fnufF; a luxury that bids fair to keep theni always poor. Xhey <^id not feeni to wilh for more iron, or to want any other inftruments, except fewing needles,, their own being made of bone. With thefe they not o^y few tiieir canoes, and make their clothes, but alfo very curious embroidery. Inftead of thread, they ufe the fibres of finews, which they fplit to the thicknefs which each fort of work requires. All fewing is per- formed by the women. They are the tailors, fhoe- makers, and boat- builders, or boat-coverers* They make mats and bafkets of grais, that are both beautiful and ftrong. Indeed, there is a neatnefs and perfedion in moft of their work, that Ihews they neither want in- genuity nor perfeverance. I faw not a fire-place in any one of their houfes. They are lighted, as well as heated, by lamps; which afe fimple, and yet anfwer the purpofe very w^ell. They are made of a flat ftone, hollowed on one fide like a plate, and about the fame fize, or larger. In the hollow part tbey put the oil, mixed with a little drygrafs, which feives the purpofe of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies over one of thefe lamps, by placing it between their kgs, under their garments, and fitting thus over it for a few minutes. They produce fire both by collifion and attrition;, the former, by ftriking two ftones one againft another ^ on one of which is a flick of about eighteen inches in length, and the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the (lick they, prefs upon the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill ; thus producing fire in a few minutes, fhis method is common in many parts of th^ world. It is pradiiied by the Kamfchadales, by "■ipt i > . ■ thefe THIRD VOYAGE. 437 thefe people, by the Grecnlanders, by the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and probably by many other nations. , No fuch thing as an offenfive or defenfive weapon was feen amongft the natives of OonalaOika. We can- not fuppofe that the Ruffians found them in fuch a de- fencelefs ftate ; it is more probable that, for their own fecurity, they have difarmed them. Political reafons too may have induced the Ruffians not to allow thefe iflanders to have any large canoes; for it is difficult to believe they had none fuch originally, as we found them gn.iongft all their neighbours. However, we faw none '^ h'U one or tw^o belonging to the Ruffians. The : nade ufe of by the natives, are the fmalleft we had a I,/ where feen upon the American coaft; though built after the fame manner, with fome little difference in the conftrudtion. In the management of their canoes, they make ufe of the double-bladed pad- dle, which is held with both hands in the middle, flrik- ing the water with a quick regular motion, firft on one fide, then on the other. By this means, the canoe is impelled at a great rate, and in a diredVion as ftraight as a line can be drawn. In failing from EgoochQiak to Samganooda, two or three canoes kept vvay with the ihip, though flie was going at the rate of feven miles an hour. Their fifliing and hunting implements differ very little from thofe ufed by the Greenlanders, as they are defcribcd by Crantz. With refpe(5t to the fiflieries in the feas, halibut and falmon (eem to be in the greateft plenty j and on them the inhabitants of thefe ifles fubfift chiefly ; at leaft, they were the only fort of fiffi, ex- cept cod, which we obferved to be laid up for their winter (lore. On Monday the 26th, Captain Cook left thisilland. His intention was to proceed to the Sandwich Iflands, there to fpend a few of the winter months, and then to go to Kamfchatka, (o as to endeavour to be there by the middle of May, the enfuing fummer. On the 26th of November, he difcovered Mowee, and on the 30th ' Owhyhee, J> "JK 438 CAPTAIN cook's Owhyhee, two of the Sandwich liland. In plying be- tween thefe two iflands, they had an occafional traffick with the natives of Owhyhee for provifions : 1 never met with a behaviour fo free from referve and fufpicion, in my intercourfe with any tribes of favages, as we experienced in the people of this illand. It was very common for them to fend up into the fliip' the fcveral articles they brought off for baiter; afterward, they would come in themfelves, and make their bargains on the quarter deck. The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated vifits, did not care to put fo much confi- dence in us. I infer from this, that thofe of Owhyhee mud be more faithful in their dealings with one another, than the inhabitants of Otaheite are. For if little faith were obferved amongft themfelves, they would not be fo ready to trufl. to ftrangers. It is alfo to be obferved, to their honour, that they never once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, nor to commit a theft. They under- lland trading as well as moft people, and feemed to comprehend clearly the reafon of our plying upon their coaft. For though they brought ofl' provifions in great plenty, particularly pigs, yet they kept up their price j and rather than difpofe of them for lefs than they thought they were worth, would take them. a(hore again. - ^ . . * -^,1 Having procured a quantity of fugar cane ; anH having upon a trial, made but a few days ago, founo that a ftrong decodtion of it produced a very palatable beer, I ordered fome more to be brewed, for our gene- ral ufe. But when the cafk was now broached, not one of our crew even fo much as tafted it. As 1 had no mo- tive in preparing this beverage, but to fave our fpirits for a colder climate, I gave mylelf no trouble, eitlier by exerting authority, or by having recourle to perfuafion, to prevail on them to drink it ; knowing that there was no danger of the fcurvy, fo long as we could get a plentiful fupply of other vegetables. But, that I might not be difappointed in my views, I gave orders that no grog (hould be ferved in either (hip. I myfelf, and the officers, continued to make ufe of this fugar-cane '../' . beer, THIRD VOYAGE. 439 beer, whenever we could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of which we had fome on board, improved it much. It has the tafte of new malt beer; and I believe no one will doubt of its being very wholelbme. And yet my inconfiderate crew alledged it was injurious to their health. They had no better reafon to fupport a refolution, which they took on our firft arrival in King George's Sound, not to drink the fpruce beer made there. But, whether from a confideration that it was not the firft time of their being required to ufe that liquor, or from other reafon, they did not attempt to carry their purpofe into adual execution ; and 1 had never heard of it till now, when they renewed their ignorant oppofition to my beft endeavours to ferve them. Every innovation whatever, on board a (hip, though ever fo much to the advantage of feamen, is fure to meet with their higheft difapprobation. But portable foup, and four crout were, at firft, condemned as ftufF unfit for human be- ings. Few commanders have introduced into their fliips more novelties, as ufeful varieties of food and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few commanders have had the fame opportunities of irying fuch experi- ments, or been driven to the fame neceffity of trying them. It has, however, been, in a great meafure, ow- ing to various little deviations from eliablilhed prad:ice, that I have been able to preferve my people, generally fpeaking, from that dreadful diftcmper, the fcurvy. which has perhaps deftroyed more of our failors, in their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. jMany days were fpent in plying, in endeavouring to get to the windward of Owhyhee, and to find a proper place for anchorage. At one time the canoes thronged to the (hip with hogs and women. The latter, the captain obferved, it was not po(rible to keep from com- ing on board ; no women, he ever met with, were lefs relerved ; and indeed, it appeared to him, that they vifited the (hips with no other view, than to make a Ijirrender of their perfons. 440 CAPTAIN COOK S At length, on the i6th of January 1 779, a bay was difcovered, into which, after he had fent to examine it, Captain Cook lefolved to carry the (hips. As night approached, the greater part of his vilitors retired to the (hore J but numbers of them requefted his permiffion to flecp on board. Curiofity was not the only motive, at leaft with fome; for the next morning, feveral things were miffing, which determined him not to entertain To many another time. On the 17th, he anchored in this bay, which is called by the natives Karakakooa. The fliips continued to be much crowded with natives, and were furrounded by a multitude of canoes. I had no where, in the courfe of my voyage, feen fo numerous a body of people aflembled at oiie place. For, befides thofe who had come off to us in canoes, all the (hore of the bay was covered with fpedators, and many hundreds were fwim- ming round the Oiips like (hoals of filh. We could not but be ftruck with the fingularity of this fcene j and per- haps there were few on boar ' who now lamented out hav- ing failed in our endeavouxs to find a Northern paffage homeward, lad fummer. To this .difappointment we owed our having.it in our power to revifit the Sand- wich Iflands, and to enrich our voyage with a difco- very, which, though thelaft, feemed m many refpefts, to be the mod important that had hitherto been made by Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. ,^ir,.i j. ,^ ...-•m*.: '■■''■'■' ''f ' '^^¥ ;'}ci-t i;'i'' '- ■■■k'' . :'fi»: ,^ ■', n- '■^^ t'.- . THIRD VOYAGE. 441 . . CHAP. VIII. i Ikfcription of Karakakooa Bay — Ceremonies at the landing of Captain Cook — Arrival of Tereeoboo, king of the ifland — Vifilfrom the king, and return^ ed by Captain Cook — Tereeoboo's magnificent prefent — Thefhips leave the ijland — The Refoliition da^ maged in a gale, a?id obliged to return — Death of Captain Cook, KARAKAKOOA Bay, is fituated on the W. fide of the ifland Owhyhee. It is bounded by two points of land, at the dillance of half a league, and bearing S. S. E. and N. N. W. from each other. On the N. point, which is flat and barren, (lands the vil- lage of Kowrowa; and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, is another village of a more confiderable fize, called Kakooa : between them runs a high rocky clifl', inacceflible from the fea fliore. The S. fide of the coaft, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance ; beyond which the country rifes with a gradual afcent, and is overfpread with culti- vated inclomres and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations of the natives are fcattered in great num- bers. The fhore all round the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dan- gerous in rough weather; except at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine fandy beach, with a Morai, or burying-plaoe, at one extremity, and a fmall well of frefli, at the other. In this bay we moored, January 17, 1779, on the N. fide, about a quarter of a mile from the (here, Kowrowa bearing N. W. As foon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the fliorc in aftonilhing numbers, and expreffed their joy by fing- ing and fliouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant geftures. The decks and rigging of both Ihips were foon completely covered with them ; and a multitude of women and boys, who had not been able 19 Kk k . to 44* CAPTAIN COOK S to get canoes, came fwimming round us in fhoals many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the Refolu- tion, was a young man named Pareea, whom we foon perceived to be a perfon of great authority. On pre- fenting himfelf to Captaiii Cook, he told him, that he was Jakanee (we afterwards met with fevcral others of the fame denomination; but whether it be an office, or fome degree of affinity, we could never learn with cer- tainty) to the king of tlie ifland, who was at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was cxpeJted to return within three or four days. A few prefents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to our interefts, and he became exceedingly ufeful to us in the management of his countrymen, as we had foon occafion to experience. For we had not been long at anchor, when it was obferved that the Difcovery had fuch a number of people hanging on one fide, as oc- cafioned her to heel confiderably ; and that the men were unable to keep off the crowds which continued preffing into her. Captain Cook, being apprehenfive that (he might fuffer fome injury, pointed out the dan- ger to Pareea, who immediately went to their affiftance, cleared the fbip of its incumbrances, and drove away the canoes that furrounded her. The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared, from this incident, jto be of the moft def- potic kind. A fimilar in.ftance of it happened the fame day on board, the Refolution; where the crowd being lb great, as to impede the neceffary bufinefs of the fhip, we were obliged to have recourfe to the affiftance of Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who had likewife attached himfelf to Captain Cook. The inconveni- ence we laboured under being made known, he imme- diately ordered his countrymen to quit the vefTel, and we were not a little furprifed to fee them jump over- |:)oard, without a moment*s hefitation ; all except one ^un, who loitering behind, and Ihewing fome unwil- y - .. -v lingnefs ^,; '■; THIRD VOYAGE. 443 lingnefs to obey, K:ineena took him up in his arms, and threw him into the Tea. Both tlje chiefs were men of ftrong and well pro- portioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably plcafing, efpecially Kaneena, who was the fined man I ever faw. He was above fix feet high, and regular and expreffive features, with lively, dark eyes; his car- riage was eafy, firm, and graceful. It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruize off this ifland, the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairnefs and honefty in their deal- ings, and had not fliewn the flighted propenfity to theft; which appeared to us the more extraordinary, becaufe thofe with whom we had hitherto held any in- tercourfe, were of the lowed rank, either fervants or filhermen. We now found the cafe exceedingly altered. The immenfe crowd of illanders, which blocked up every part of the fliips, not only afforded frequent op- portunities of pilfering without rilk or difcovery, but our inferiority in number, held forth a profpedl of ellaping with impunity m cafe of detedion. Another circumltance, to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the prefence and encouragement of theirctuefa; for generally tracing the booty into the poffeflion of fome men of confequence, we had the Iirongeft reafon to fufpedt that theie depredations were committed at their intligation; Soon as the Refolution had got into her dation, our two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, wc were told, was a prieft, and had bten, in his youth, a didinguilhed warrior. He Vv'as a little old man, oi* an emaciated figure. Being led into the cabin, he c.pproached Cap- tain Cook with great veneration, arid threw over his I flioulders a piece of «*ed cloth, which he had brought jalongwith him. Tuen depping a few paces back, he made an offering of a fmall pig, which he held in his hand, whild he pronounced a difcourfe that laded for a j confiderable time. This ceremony was frequently re- |t)eated during our day at Owhyhec, and appeared touF> ' K k k 2 from W'! ' i i i /» J*. 444 CAPTAIN COOK S from many circumftances, to be a fort of religious ado- ration. I. ■.•A- v./ri (,...•♦ . -^ .. •. ,. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was fet before him; but, like the reft of the inhabitants of the iflands in thofe feas, could fcarcely be prevailed on to tafte a fecond time our wine or fpirits^ In the evening. Cap- tain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayley rnd Mr. King. accompanied him on fhore. We landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wand?, tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing, with a loud voice, a fliort fentence, in which we could only diftinguifli the word Orono. The crowd, which had been colieded on the (hore, retired at our approach} and not a perfon was to be feen, except a few lying proftrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining .village. .'/^ o) j3i 3p,,; ^^^Jfr...^: .^./'f " f,l,li,^^, V : Tlifi next morning the iStli, we went on fliore with a guard of eight marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to ereft the obfervatory, in fuch a fituation as might beft enable me to fuperintend and proted the waterers, and the other working parties that were to be on ftiore. As we were viewing a fpot conveniently fituated for this purpofe, in the middle of| the village, Pareea, who was alwaj's ready to fliew both his power and his good-will, offered to pull down feme I houfes that would have obflrufted our obfervations.l However, we thought it proper to decline this offer, j and fixed on a field of fvveet potatoes adjoining to the Morai, which was readily granted us ; and the priefts, to prevent the intrufion of the natives, immediately confecrated the place, by fixng their wands round the| wall by which it was inclofed. This fort of religious interdidion they call taboo j ai word we heard often repeated, during our ftay amongl thcfe iflanders, and found to be a very powerful and! extenfive operation. No canoes ever prefumed to land near usj the natives fat on the wall, but none offered to come within the tabooed fpace, till he had obtained] our penijiflfion. But though the men, at our requeft,, wcruld THIRD VOYAGE, 445 would come acrofs the field with provifions, yet not all our endeavours c^ald prevail on the women to approach us. Prefents v ere tried, but without effed ; Pareea and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain; we were invariably anfwered, that the Eatooa and Ter- reeoboo (which was the name of their king) would kill them. This circumftance aiforded no fmall matter of amufement to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to flock thither, obliged them almoft every hour to clear the veffel, in order to have room to do the necef- fary duties of the fliip. On thefe occafions, two or three hundred women were frequently made to jump into the water at once, where they continued iwim- ming and playing about, liii they could again procure admittance. From, the 19th to the 24th, nothing very material happened. The caulkers were fet to work on the fides of the fliips, and the rigging was overhauled and re- paired. The falting of hogs for lea ftore, was alfo one of the principal objeds of Captain Cook's attention ; in which, notwithftanding it has generally been thought impradicable to cure the flefli of animals by falting, in tropical climates, he was very fuccefsful. We had not been long fettled at our obfervatory, before we difcovered, in oui: neighbourhood, the habi- tations of a Ibciety of priefls, whole regular attend- ance at the Morai had excited our curiofity. Their huts ftood round a pond of water, and were furround- ed by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which feparated them from the beach and the reft of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On ac- quainting Captain Cook with this, he refolved to pay them a vifit ; which he accordingly did, and was re- ceived with nearly the fame religious ceremonies as at the Morai. ; , ' ' * ' -"■' ■'"- ' During the reft of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on fliore, he was attended by one of thefe prieils, who went before him, giving notice that the Oronohad landed, and ordered the peo- ple flC 446 CAPTAIN cook's pie to proflrate themfelves. The fame perfon alfo con- ftantly accompanied him on the water, (landing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in ca- noes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay down on their faces till he had paffed. Whenever they (lopped at the obfervatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren made thcr appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and prefcnted them with the ufual folemnities. It was on thefe occafions that feme of the inferior chiefs frequently reque(l:ed to be permitted to make an offering to the Orono. When this was grant- ed, they prefented the hog themielves, generally with evident marks of fear in ther countenances j whilft Kaireekeea and the priefts chanted their dccudomed hymns. The civilities of this fociety were not, however, confined to mere ceremony anti panlde. Our party on Ihore received from them, every day a fupply of hogs and vegetables, more than fufficicnt for our fubliftence ^ and feveral canoes loaded with provifibns were fent to the (Viips with the fame puniluality. No return was ever demanded, or even hinted at in the mo(l diftant manner; Their prefents were made with a regularity more like the difcharge of a religious duty, than the effect of mtre liberality -, and when we enquired at whole charge all this numii-icence was difplayed, we were told, it w.is at the expence of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, and grandfather to Kai- reekeea, who was at that time abfcnt attending; tht king of the ifland. Things continued in this ftate till the 24th, wL^n we were a good deal furprized to find that no canoes were fuffered to put off from the (bore, and that the natives kept clofe to their houfes. After leveral hours fufpenfe we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourie with us intcrdided, on account of the arri- val of Terreeoboo. As we had not forefecn an accident of this fort, our crews were obhged to pafs the day without their ufual fupply of vegetables. The next morning, #^ TJLIRP VOYAGE. 447 morning, therefore, they endeavoured, both by threats and promifes, to induce the natives to come along-fide ; and as fome of them were at laft venturing to put offi a chief was obierved attempting to driv^ them away» A mufquet was immediately fired over his head, to make them defift, which had the delired tife<^t, and refrefti- ments were foon after purchafed as ulual. In the after- noon, Terreeoboo arrived, and vifited the (liips in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He ftaid on board till near" ten o'clock. -,..•(... ' The next day the king, in a large canoe, attended by two others, paddled towards the (hip in great llate. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In die firft canoe was Tereeoboo and his chiefs, drefled in their rich feathered cloaks and hchnets, and armed with long fpcars and daggers; in the fecond, came the venerable Kaoo, the c!uef of the priefts, and his brethren, with their idols difplayed on red cloth. Thefe idols were buds of a gigantic fize, made of wicker work, and curioufly covered with fmall feathers of various colours, wrought in the fame manner wjlh their cloaks. Their eyes were ma^ie of large pearl oyfter, with a black nut fixed in the centre ; their mouths were fet 'vith a double row of the fangs of dogs, and together with the reft- ot their features were Itrangeiy diftorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and vegetables. As they went along, the priefts in the centre canoe lung their hymns with great folemnity; and after paddling round the fliips, intiead o( going onboard, as we expelled, they made towards tlie Ihore at the beach were we were Rationed. As loon as I law them approaching, 1 ordered out our little guard to receive the king; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on Ihore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the lame time. We conduced them into the tent, where they had Icarcely been feated, when the king role up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the captain's Ihoulders the cloak he himfelf wore, put a feathered hejmet upon his head, and a ' ' ' curious 443 CAPTAIN cook's curious fan in iiis hand. He alfo fpread at his feet five or fix other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greateft value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with fugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit ; and this part of the ceremony was con- duded by the king's exchanging names with Captain Cook, which, amongft all the iflanders of the Pacific Ocean, is eftcemed the ftrongeft pledge of friendfliip. A procefl[ion of priefts, with a venerable old perfonage at their head, now appeared, followed by a long train leading larg(^ hogs, and others carrying plantains, fweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and geftures of Kairee- keea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priefts before-mentioned, on whofe bounty we had fo long fubfiftcd. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped round Captain Cook's flioulders, and afterwards prefented him a fmall pig in the ufual form. A feat was then made for him, next to the king, after which Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and the Chiefs joining in the refponces. ... .^.^ ■ .. . As foon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many of the chiefs as the pinnace would hold, on board the Refolu- taon. They were received with every mark of refped: ; and Captain Cook, in return for the feathered cloak, put a linen Ihirt on the king, and girt his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaioo,'and about half a dozen more old chiefs, remained on (horc, and took up their abode at the priefts* houfes. During all this time, not a canoe was feen in the bay, and the natives either kept within their huts, or lay prortrate on the ground. Bv- fore the king left the Refolulion, Captain Cook obtain- ed leave for the natives to come and trade with the fliips as ufual ; but the women, for what rcafon we could nor learn, ftill continued under the eiledls of the taboo j that is, were forbidden to ftir fronj home, or to hav any communication with us. ,.. :. ^ T,: i, i,;'^ ' The inoffenfive behaviour of the natives having taken away every apprehenfign of danger, we did ncit heCtate' ,. y"" . . ■* tb- '^^ THIRD VOYAGE. 449 to truft ourfelvcs amoi.gft them at all times, and in all fituations. The officers of bvith fliips went daily up the country, in fmall parties, or even fingly, and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be cnd'efs to recount all the inftances of civility we received upon thofc occafions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, eager to offer every affiftance, and highly gratified if their fervices were accepted. Various little arts were pradifed to attradt our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran before, as we walked through their village, and flopped us at every opening, where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one time, we were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or fome other refrefliment, under* the (hade of their huts; at another, we were (eated within a circle of young women, who exerted all their ikill to ^mufe us with fongs and dances. The fatisfadlion we derived from their gentlenefs and hofpitality, was however frequently interrupted by their propenfity to flealing. Some of their moft ex- pert fwimmers were one day difcovered under the (hips, drawing out the filling nails of the (heathings, which they performed very dexteroufly, by means of a (horc (iick, with a flint fione fixed in the end of it. To put a (lop to this praftice, which 'indangercd the very ex- iflenCeof the vefleis, we at firft fired fmall (hot at the ofTenders, but they eafily got out of our reach by div- ing under the (hip's bottom. It was therefore found necefTary to make an example, by flogging one of them on board the Difcovery. - On the 28th, died, William Wat many Vfe^di^a^h^of the gunner's crew, an event which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto been very rare amongll us. He was an old man, and much re("pe6ted on account of his attachment to Captain Cook. He •lad formerly ferved as a marine 21 years; after which he entered asaleaman on board the Refolution in 1772, and ierved with Captam Cook in his voyage towards the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into i^teeawich Hofpital, through the captain's intereft, at 49 L 1 Jl the ■^ 450 CAPTAIN cook's the fame time with himfelf ; and b' ' ng refolved to fol- low throughout the fortunes of his benefador, he alio quitted it along with him, on his being appointed to the command of the prefent expedition. During the voyage, he liad frequently been fubjeft to flight fevers, and was a convalefcent when he came into the bay, where being fent on fliorc for a few days, he conceived himfelf perfedly recovered, and, at his own defire, re- turned on board j but the day following, he had a para- lytic flroke, which in two days carried him off. At the requeft of the king, he was buried on the Morai, and the ceremony was performed with proper lolemnity. Old Kaooand his brethren were fpedators, and preferved the moft profound filence and attention, .vvhiUl the fervice was reading. When we begJin to fill ,^up' the grave, they approached it with great reverence "threw in a dead pig, lome cocoa-nuts, and plantain:,; and, for three nights afterward, they furrounded it, fac r i fie ing, hogs, and performing their ufual ceremonies of Jiyipns ,an^,,pr«^y,ei;s, wlucb continued |i|l,almoft day- break, .• .„ ,: , , ',, .: ^- ,, „/.,! s ., ., ', At the head of the grave we ereded a poft, and nailed it upon a fquare piece of board, on which was infcribed the name of the deceafed, his age, and the day of his death. Thi* they promifed not to remove, and we have no doubt but it will be fuffered to remain as long as the frail materials of which it is made will permit. _, p ,,;.>? ":i.v:.'»r.:. i^wAu- '■s. The fl-yip DelDg in great want of fuel, the captain defired me, on the 2d of February, to treat with the priefts, for the purchafe of the rail that furrounded the top of the Morai. I muft confefs, I had, at firft, fome doubt about the decency of this propofal, and was ap- prehenfive, that even the bare mention of it might be confidered, by them, as apiece of fliocking impiety. In this, however, 1 found myfelf miftaken. Not the fmalleft lurprize was expreifed at the application, and the wood was readily given, even without ftipulating .for any thing in return. Whilft the failors were taking •it away, I oblerved one of them carrying off a carved .: ^ . images THIRD VOVAGE. 451 image; and, on further enquiry, found, that they had conveyed to the boats the whole femicircle. Though this was done in the prefence of the natives, who had not (hewn any mark of refentment at it, but had even affifted them in the removal, I thought it proper to fpeak to Kaoo on the fubjed, who appeared very in- different about the matter, and only defired, that we would rellore the center image, which he carried into one of the priefts* houles. Terrceoboo, and his chiefs, had, for fome days pad, been very inquifitive about the time of our departure. This circumilance had excited in me a great curiofity to know what opinion this people had formed of us, and what were tlieir ideas refpeding the caufe and ob- jeds of our voyage. 1 took fome pains to fatisfy my- felf on thefe points j but I could never learn any thing farther, than that they imagined we came from fjme country where provifions had failed ; and that our vi- fir to them was merely for the purpofe of filling our beHies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of fome of the crew, the hearty appetites with which we fat down to their frefli provifions, and our great anxiety to pur- chafe, and carry off, as much as we were able, led them naturally enough, to fuch a conclufion. To thefe may be added, a circumftance which puzzled them exceedingly, our having no women with us; to- gether with our quiet condud, and unwarlike appear- ance. It was ridiculous enough to fee them ftroking the fides, and patting the bellies, of the failors (who were certainly much improved in the fleeknefs of their looks, during our fhort flay in the ifland), and telling them, partly by figns, and partly by words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit feafon, they (liould be better able to fupply their wants. We liad now been fixteen days in the bay ; and if our enormous confumption of hogs and vegetables be confidered, it need not be wondered, that they Ihould wifli to fee us take our leave. It is very probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view ia his enquiries, at prefent, thana defire of mak- .; ■ ; L 1 1 2 ing 452 CAPTAIN COOK 9 ing fufficient preparation for difmiffing us with prcfents, fultable to the refpedt and kindncfs with which he had received us. For, on our telling him we ftiould leave the illand on the next day but one, we obferved a fort of proclamation was immediately made, through the villages, to require the people to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to prefcnt to the Orono, on his departure. The next day being fixed for our departure, Ter- reeoboo invited Captain Cook and myfelf to attend him, on the 3d, to the place where Kaoo refided. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of cloth ; a vaft quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut hufks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces of ironware, that had been got in barter from us. At a- little diflance from thefe, lay an immenfe quantity of vegetables, of every kind, and near them was a largo herd of hogs. At firfl, we imagined the whole to be intended as a prefent for us, till Kaireekcea informed me, that it was a gift, or tribute, from the people of that diflrid to the king; and, accordingly, as foon as we were fcated, they brought all the bundles, and laid them feverally at Terreeoboo's feet ; fpreading the cloth, and dilplaying the feathers and iron- ware before him. The king feem- ed much pleafed with this mark of their duty; and having feledted about a third part of the iron-ware, the fame proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, thefe were fet afide by themfelves, and the remainder of the cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were afterwards pre fen ted to Captain Cook and myfelf. We were aftonifhed at the vaJueand magnitude of this prefent, which far exceeded every thing of the kind we had feen, either at the Friendly or Society Iflands. Boats were immediately fent to carry them on board ; the large hogs were picked out, to be falted for lea ftore ; 9.nd upwards of thirty fmaller pigs, and the vegetables \vere divided between the two crews. The fame day, we quitted the Morai, and got the ^ents and aflronomical inflrycpents on board. The ^h^rm THIRD VOYAGE. 453 charm of the taboo was now removed ; and wc had no Iboner left the place, than the natives rudied in, and fearched eagerly about, in expedat on of finding fome- thing of value, that wc might have If^tt behind. As I happened to remain the laft on (bore, and waited for the return of the boat, feveral came crowding about me, and having made me fit down by them, began to lament our reparation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence, in which I was principally coi kerned. Having had the command of the party on I. ore, during the whole time we were in the b?.y, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than thofe whofe duty required them to be generally on board. As 1 had every reafon to be fatisfied with their kindnefs, in general, fo 1 cannot too often, nor to particularly, mention tlie unbounded and conftant friendthip of their priells. * -v; i-. >.■■ v« . i ■ ' On my part, I fpared no endeavours to conciliate their affedions, and gain their efteem; and I had the good fortune to fucceed fo far, that when the- time of our departure was made known, 1 was (Irongly foticrted to remain L>;.4iind, not without offtrs of the moft flatter- ing kind. When I excufed mylelf, by faying, that Captain Cook would not give his conient, they propof- ed, that 1 fhould retire into the mountains ; where, they faid, they would conceal me, till after the departure ot the Ihips; and on my farther alTuring them, that the captain would not leave the bay without me, Te'r- reeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whofe fon they fuppofed Ivvas, with a formal requeft, thAt I might be left behind. The captain, to avoid giving ^ pofitive refufalto an offer fo kindly intended, toli:} them, that he could not part with me, at that time, but that he Ihould return to the ifland the next year^ and would then 'endeavour to fettle the matter to their fatisfadlion. Earliy in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and failed ovit of the bay, with the Difcov.Ty in company, anc} ^ 454 CAPTAIN cook's and were followed by a great number of canoes. Capt. Cook's defign was to finifh the furvey of Owhyhee, before he vifited the other iflands, in hopes of meeting with a road better flieltered, than the bay we had jull left; and in cafe of not fucceeding here, he purpofed to take a view of the S. E. part ot Mowee, where, the natives informed us, we fliould find an excellent har- bour. Captain Cook had calm weather for three fucceeding days, which much impeded his progrefs ; and, at mid- night, on the 8th, a violent gale came on, vi^hich greatly damaged the fore-maft of the Refolution. This circumftance, which proved fo fatal to Captain Cook, obliged him to return to Karakakooa Bay, and to take up his old flation there, till the dangers he had fuftain- cd could be properly repaired. ^^^" '' -'si.*^-iiJA x.>u .. I >.>■.! Will, <^»u uji»" , J' ii ii;;i<'. ■»; /«* ..vtvr.^.'l^ T''-''j' w U' .?u.. y CHAP. IX. /ii'oi ,»1 '^aih:': Death of Captain Cook, tvith an account of the traiif- ► anions at the JJland of Ozvhyheei fiibfequent to tht death of Captain Cook — Captain Clerke's departure frbm Owhyhee — Arrival at Atooi — Final departure . from the Sandwich Iflands — Defcription of the natives y and treatment of their women. o' -^iif. AS the repairs of the Refolution required feme time, the aftronomical apparatus was got afliore, and the tents pitched on the Moral, or burying place, where a guard of a corporal and fix marines was ftationed. The friendly correfpondence was renewed with the priefts, who, for the greater fecurity of the workmen, and their tools, tabooed the place where the mail lay, fticking their wands round it as before. But notwith- llanding this friendly behaviour of the priefts, it was a matter of great furprife, that when the (hips came to anchor, their reception was very different from what it had been on their firft arrival ; no (bouts, no buftle, no confufion, but a folitary bay, with only here and there a cpnoe ftealing clofc along the fhore. Thcle fufpicious THIRD VOYAGE. 45J fufpicious circumftances gave rife to many conjeflures, but whatever theie were, things went on in their ufual quiet cou I'e till the aftcrnopn of the 13th. Towards the evening ot tt:at day, the officer who commanded iue watering party of the Difcover), ca:nc to inform mi, that feveraJ <^At(s had afl'emblcd at the well near the beach, driving away the natives, whom he iiad hired to aflT.lt the Tailors ii rolling down the cafks to the fliore. He told mc^ at the lame time, that he thouglit tl;eii behaviour extremely fufpicious, and that they meant to give him fome farther difturbancc. At his rcquell, therefure, I tent z marine along with him, but iuflered him to take only his fide arms. In a Ihort time the officer re:urned, and on his acquainting me, that the natives had armed themfelves with (lones, and were grown very tumultuous, I went mylelf to the fpot, attended by a marine, with his mufquet. Seeing us approach, tliey threv/away their (tones, and, on my fpeaking to fome of th? chiefs, the mob were drivers away, and thoi'e who chofe it, were fufiered to affiil in filling the cafks. Having left things quiet here, L went to meet Captain Cook, whom I faw coming alhore in the pinnace. I related to him what had jufl pafl'ed ; and he ordered me, in cafe of their beginning to throw ftones, or behave infolently, immediately to fire a ball at the offenders. 1 accordingly gave orders to the cor- poral, to have the pieces of the centinels loaded with ball, inftead of fmall Diot. ... .,,. -....• /- Soon alter our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continual fire of mufquets from the Difcovery, which we obferved to be dire^fled at a canoe, that we faw paddling toward the Chore, in great halte, purfued by one of our fmall boats. We immediately concluded that the firing was owing to fome theft, and the cap- tain ordered me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to feize the people as they came on fliore. Accordingly, we ran toward the place where we fuppofed the ca.ioe vould land, but were too late j the people having quitted it, and made their efcape into the country before our arrival. . W- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.5 u m ^ us, IL25 i 1.4 *^ 1^ 12.2 ii m III 1.6 •« Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) S72-4S03 •1>^ \ qv >^ ^^ >. ;\ 45^ CAPTAIN cook's We were at this time ignorant that the goods had been already reftorecl ; and as we thought it probable, from the circumltances vvc had at firft obferved, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to relin- quidi our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore enquired of the natives which way the people had fled, we followed them, till it was near dark, when judging ourfeivcs to be about three miles from the tents, and fufpe<^ing, that the natives, who frequently encouraged us in the purlult, were amufing us with falfe informa- tions, we thought it in vain to continue our fearch any longer, and returned to the beach. During our abfence, a difference of more ferious and unpleafant nature had happened. The officer, who had been fent in the fmall boat, and was returnins; on board, with the goods which had been reflored, obferving the captain and me engaged in the purfuit of the offenders, tliought it h'.j duty to feize the canoe, which was left drawn upon the (bore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareca, who arriving at the fame moment from on board the Dilcovery, claimed his property, with many protedations of his innocence. The olHcer refufing to give it up, and being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for the captain, a icuffle enlued, in which Parcea was knocked down, by a violent blow op. the head with an oar. The natives, who were colledcci about the fpot, and had hitherto bien peaceable I'j.LCtators, imn^ediately attack- ed our people, with luch a fiiower of (tones, as forced them to retreat with great precipitation, and fwim oft' to a rock at feme diftiince irom the Ihore. The pin- nace was immediately ranfacked by the natives, and but for the timely intcrpofitinn of Pareea, who ieemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at the fame inftant, would foon have been entirely demolifli- ed. Having driven away the crowd, he made figns to our people that they might come and take pofleffjon of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a mid- , . Ihipman's "A THIRD VOYAGE. 457 ihipman's cap, and fome other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent concern at what liad happened, aiked if the Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day; on being affured, that he would be well received, he joined nofes with the officers, in token of fricndlhip, and paddled over to the village of Kow- rowa. When the captain was informed of what had pafTed, he exprefTed much uneafinefs at it, I am afraid, laid he, that theic people wi 1 oblige us to ule fome violent mea- fures, for they luuft not be left to imagine, that they have gained an advantage over us. He immediately gave orders, that every man and woman on board ihould be turned out of the fliip. As foon as this or- der was executed, J returned on (liore; and- our former confide nee in the natives being much abated, by the events of the day, 1 polled a double guard on the Mo- rai, with orders to call me, if they law any men lurk- ing about the b*ach. At about eleven o'clock, five iflanders were ol:ft:rved creeping round the bottom of the iVIorai;* they lecmed very cautious in aj^proaching us, and at laft finding themfelves difcovercd, retired out of fight. About midnight, one of them venturing up clofe to the oblervatory, the centincl fired over him; on which the man fled, and we palfcd the reiiiainder'of the night without farther difturbance. On the 14th of Februajy, J went on board the Re- folution for the time-keeper, and in my way was hailed by the Difcovery, and infoi ned, that their cutter had been flolen during the night, from the buoy where it was moored. When I arrived on board, I found the marines arm- ing, and the captain loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilfl I was relating to him what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me with fome eagernefs, and acquainted me with the lofs of the Difcovery's cut- ter, and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his ufual pradice, whenever any thing of confequence was lofl, to get the king, or 20 M m m . fome 438 CAPTAIN cook's fome of the chiefs on board, and keep them as hollages, till it was reftored. This method, which had always been attended with fuccefs, he meant to purfue on the prefent occafion ; and, at the fame time, had given orders to flop all the canoes that ihould attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of feizing and de- itroying them, if he could not recover the cutter. by peaceable means. Accordingly, tlie boats of both fhips, well manned and armed, were ftationed acrofs the bay ; and, before I left the (hip, fome great guns had been fired at two large canoes, that were attempt- ing to make their efcapc. ., _ ,, , It was between feven and eight o'clock when we quitted the Ihip together; the Captain in the pinnace, having Mr. Philips and nine marines with him, and myfelt in the fmallboat. The laft orders I received from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on our lide of the bay, by aflliring them, they (hould not be hurt, to keep my people together, and to be on my Cuard. We then parted, the Captain went towards Kowrowa, where the king refided, and I proceeded to the be^ch. My firft; care, on going afliore, was to give ftri<5t orders to the marines to remain within the tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. ^ Afterward 1 took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo, and the prieds, and explained to them, as well as I could, the objed of the hoftile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed them. I found, that they had already heard of the cutter*s being ftolen, and I affurcd thetp, that though the Captain was refolved to recover it, and to punifli th^ authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people Of the village on this hde, peed not be under the fmall^ft apprehenfion offuffer- ing any evil from us. I defired the priefts to explain this to the people, and tell them not to be alarmed, but to remain peaceable and quiet. Kaoo aiked me, if their* king was to be hurt ? 1 afliired him, he was tiot ; and both he and his brethren fecmed fatisjjed with •V. ' ^ .. ..•; a, M „ j„ THIRD VOYAGE 459 In the mean time, the captain having called off the launch, which was ftationcd at the N. point of the bay, and taken it along with him, went to Kowrowa, and landtd with the Lieutenant, and nine marines. He imn.ediately marched into the village, where he was n*- ccivcd with the ufual marks of reaped ; the people pro- ftrating themfelves before him, and bringing their ac- cuftomed offerings of fmall pigs. Finding that there was no fufpicion of his defign, his next ftep was to in- quire for the king, and his Ions, who had been his con- ftant gueCls on board the Refolution. In a Ihort time, the boys returned, with the natives, who had been in fearch of them, and immediately led the Captain to the houfe where the king had llept. They found him juft awoke from fleep, and after a (hort converfation about the lofs of the cutter, from which the Captain was con« vinced that he was in no wife privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and fpend the day on board the Refolution. To this propofal the king readily con- fented, and immediately got up to accompany him oii board. . . ^^ i .. 1, . i . „. vr Things "were in this profperous tram, the boys al- ready in the pinnace, and thfc reft of the party liaving advanced near the water-fide, when an elderly woipan> the mother of the boys and one of the king's favourite wives, tamfc after him, and with many tears and en^ treaties, befought him not to goon board. At the fame tim^, two Chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, arid infilling that he (houjd go no farther^ forced him to fit dowri. The natives, who where col- ie^ing in prodigious numbers along the fliore, begai^ to throng round the Captain and their King. |n this fituation, the Lieutenant of marines, obferving, that his men were hiiddlcd clofe together in the crowd, and thus incapable of ufing their arms, if occafion (br.r '4 require it, propofed to the Captain to di^aw them up along the rocks, clofe to the water's edge y ahd the crowd readily making way for them to pafs, they were drawn lip in a line, at the diftance of about thirty yards from the place where the king was fitting. M m m 2 AH 4^a CAPTAIN COOK^S •' All this time the old king remained on the grotlnflr, ^vith the ftrongcfl marks of terror and dejedtion in his countenance; the Captain not willing to abandon the objedt for which lie had come on ihore, continuing to urge him, m the moft preffing manner, to proceed j whilft, on the other hand, whenever the King appeared inclined to follow him, the Chiefs, who flood round him, interpofed, at firll with prayers and entreaties, but afterwards, having recourfe to force and violence, and infifted on his ftaying where he was. . Captain Cook therefore finding, that the alarm h:id fpread loo gene- rally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off, without bloodshed, at laft gave up the point: obferving to Mr. Philips, that it would be im- . poffible to compel him to go on board, without the ri/k of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprize which had carried Captain Cook on (bore had now failed, and Was abondoned, yet his p^rfon did not appear to have be$n*in the lea(i: Ganger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatrt 'turn to the affair. The boats, which had been t^ation- td acrbfs the- bay, having fired at fome canoes, that were .Attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a Chief of the firft rank. The news of his death arrived flt the village Where Captain Cook was, juft as he had left the King, and was walking flowly towards the {here. The ferment it occafioned was very confpicuousi tljc women and children were immediately fent offj and •^he men put on their war mats, and armed thcmfelves with fpears and ftones. One of the natives, having in • his hands a ftone, and a long iron fpike (which they call a Pahooa,) came up to the Captain, flourifhing his weapon, by way of defiance, and threatening to throw ■the ftone. The Captain defired himiodefiftj but the man perfifted in his infolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of fmall (hot. The man having his mat on, which the fhot were not able to penetrate, this had . no other effect than to irritate and encourage them. * 'Several (lones were thrown at the marines; and one of *^he Erccs attempted to ftab Mr. Phillips with his '! .. Pahooa; *: I nil ■4 '•*t^: ♦ >i >, ;*« . • r «;, (* K > * .<^:> ^-' ■^i^j*- ♦ •/**«#^ ."> V 'v»»' •.j-r^A^. mm THIRD VOYAGE. 4t6t Pahc)oa ; but failed in the attempt, and received Iroin him a blow with the but end ot his mulquct. Captain Cook now fired his lecond barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremoft of the natives. A gene- ral attack with ftones immediately followed, which was anlwered by a difcharge of mulquetry from the marines, and the people in the boats. The iflanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, flood the fire wiih great firmn^fsj and before the marines liad time to reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful [bouts and yells. What followed was a fccne of the utmoft horror and confufion. ,.;. , : ^ Four of the marint:s were cut off among the rocks in their retreat, and fell a i'acnfice to the lury of the enemy } three more were dangcroully wounded > and the Lieutenant who had received, a ilab beivv^^cn the (boulders with a Pahooa, having fortunately refervcd his iire» (liot the man who had wounded him ju(l as repeat his blow. Our unfortunate laft time he was feen diflindly, tb^e water's edge, and calling out to the boats to ceafe tiring, and to pull in. If it be true, as fome of tbofc who were prefcnt have imagined, that the marines and boat-men had fired without his orders, and that he was dcfirous of prevent- ing any further bloodfhed, it is not improbable, thai his humanity, on this occafion, proved fatal to him. For it was remarked, that while he faced the native?, none of them had offered him any violence, but th.it having turned about, to give his orders to the boats, he was ftabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On feeing him fall, the iflanders fet up a great (bout, and his body was immediately dragged on fhorc, and iurrounded by the enemy, who fnatching the dag- ger out of each other's hands, fliewed a favagc eager- nefs to have a fliare in hisdeftrudion. <.^ Thus fell our great and excellent commander ! After a life of fuch diltinguifhed and fuccefsful cnterprize, his ^leath, as far as regards himfelf, cannot be reckon- . ^ ed he was going to commander, the was Handing at 4^1 CAPtAtlt COOK** ed premature ; fince he lived to finifh the freat Work for which he feeiris to have been defigncd ; and was rather renwvcd from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquifition of glory. How fincerely his lofs was liimented, by thofe who bad fo long found their general fccurity in his fkill and condudt, and every confolation under their hardrtiips, in his tendernefs and humanity, it is neither necellary nor poffible for me to defcribe ; much lefs tball I attempt to paint the horror with which we were ftruck, and the univerfal dejedion and difmay which followed fo dreadful and unexpected a calamity. It having been already mentioned, that four of the marines were killed on the fpot. The reft, with Mr. Philips, threw theriifelves into the water, and efcaped, under cover of a fmart fire from the boats. On this occafion, a remarkable inftance of gallant behaviour, and of aflfedtion for hts men, was fliewn by that officer. For he had fcafcely got into the boat, when, feeing one of the riiarines, who was a bad fwimmer, ftruggling in the water, and in dagger of being taken by the erte- my, he immediately jumped into .the lea to his affift* ance, though much wounded hitiilelf, and after recfeiv- in^ a blow/ on the head from a ftone, which had nearly fent him to the bottom, he caught. the man by his hairj snd brought him fafe off. Our people continued for fome time to keep up a conftant ftre from the boats, (which, during the whole tranfaftion, were not more than twenty yards from the land) in order to -afford their unfortunate campanioriSj an opportunity of efcaping. Thefe efforts, fecondcd by a few guns, fired at the iame tinie from the Refolu- tion, having forced the natives at laft to retire, a- fmall boat, manned by five young rhidfhipmen, pulled toWard the fhdre, where they faw the bodies, without anv figns of life, but judging it dangerous to attempt 'lo bring then^ off, with fo fmall a force, they returned tg the Ihips, leaving them in poffefiion of the iilaiiders, Ijvith ten ftand of arms. As foon as the general confternation, which the news of this c^kinaity oGcafioned throughout botli crews, had a little TUIRD VOYAGE. 465 a little fubfided, their attention was called to tie party at the Moral, where the mafls and Tails were on fhore, with a guard of only fix marines. Being at the distance only of a fliort mile from the village ot Kowrowa, we could fee dillindly an immenfe crowd coUedcd pn the ipot where Captain Cook had juft before landed. We heard the firing of the mulquetry, and could perceive I'omc extraordinary buftic in the multitude. , . , My firfl care, on hearing the mufqucts fired, was, to affure the people, who were afllimbied in confider- able numbers, round the wall of our confecratcd field, and Teemed equally at a lofs with ourfclves how to ac. count for what they had Teen and heard, that they fliould not bemolefledj a^d that, at all events, was dcfirous of continuing on peaceable terms with them, remained in this pofture, till the boats had returned on board, when Captain Clcrke, obferving,' through his telefcope, that we were furroundcd by the natives, and apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two four-pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately thefe gunp, though well aimed, did no mifchief, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which. a party, of them were fitting; and the other fliivered a rock, that llood in an exadl line with them. As I had, juft before, given them the ftrongeft alfur- ances of their fafety, I was exceed^ingly mortified at this a(fl of hoftility ; and, to prevent a repetition of it, immediately difpatclied a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at prefent, I was on the mofl friendly terms with the natives j, and that, if occafion fhould herqai'ter arife for altering my cond.u(5t towards them, I would hoift a jack, for him to afford us all the afiift- ance in his pouer. ' ''',: ., . ':.a_ , .i,. ,.' ^:^^). We expeded the return of the boat with the utmoft impatience; and after remaining a quarter of an hour under the moft torturing anxiety and lufpejiTe, pur fears were at length confirmed, by, the- arrival of Mr. piigh, with orders to i^rike th€ tents as, quickly as .,, , " ,. pofIil>]e, '.t 464 CAPTAIN COOK*a pofliblf, and to fend the fails, that were repairing, on board. .,^^ ,. , flavin^ placed the marines on the top of the Morai, which formed a llrong poll, and left the command with Mr. Bligh, giving him the mod pofitive diredions to n(fl ent'-ely on the detcnfive, I went on board the Difcovery, in order to reprtlent to Captain Gierke the dangerous fituation of our atfairs. As loon as I quitted the fpot, the natives began to annoy our people with (lones; and I had fcarcely reached the fhip, before 1 lieard the firing of the marines. 1 therefore returned inllantiy on Hiore, where I found things growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, iiO..l Si'^f v.'ii?^;^•s THIRD VOYAGE, 467 the country ; but of this circumftance I was not in- formed, till our return to the (hips. i began now to exprefs fome impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the chiefs preffed me exceedingly to come alhore, affuring me, that if 1 would go myfelf to their king, the body would certainly be rellored to me. When they found they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under pretence of wifliing to converfe with more eafe, to decoy our boat among fome rocks, where they would have had it in their power to cut us off from the reft. It was no difficult matter to fee through thefe artifices; and I was there- fore ftrongly inclined to break off all further communi- cation with them, when a chief came to us, who was the particular friend of Captain Gierke, and of the officers of the Difcovery, on board which thip he had failed, when we laft left the bay, intending to take his paflage to Mowee. He told us, he came from the king, to acquaint us that the body was carried up the country, but that it fliould be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great deal of (incerity in his manner J and being afked if he told a falfhood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is under- ftood amongft thefe illanders as the (ign of truth; in the ufe of which they are very fciupulous. As I was now at alofs in what manner to proceed, I lent Mr. Vancouver to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had pafTed; that my opinion was, they meant not to keep their word with us, and were fo far from being forryatwhat had happened, that on the contrary, they were full of fpirits and confidence on account of their late fuccefs, and fought only to gain time, till they could contrive ibme Icheme lor gettihg us into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for me to return on board ; having firft given the natives to underftand, that, if the body was not brought the next morning, the town fliould be deflroyed. When they faw that we were going off, they en- deavoured to provoke us by the moft infulting and con- • temptuous gcfture?. Some of our people fald, they « • • N n n 2 could 468 CAPTAIN cook's could diftinguifh feveral of the natives parading about in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades; and, among them, a Chief brandilliing Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the fcabbard. Indeed, there can be no doubt, but that our behaviour had given them a mean opinion of our courage; for they could have but httle notion of the motives of humanity that direded it. In confequence of the report I made to Captain Gierke, of what I conceived to be the prefent difpofi- tion of the natives, the moft cffcdual methods were taken to guard againft any attack they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains ; additional fentincls were pofled on both thips ; and suird-boats were ftationcd to row round them, in or- der to prevent the natives from cutting the cables. Puring the night we obferved a prodigious number of lights on the hills, which made us imagine, they were removing their efteds back into the country, m confe- quence of our threats. But I rather believe them to have been the facrifices that were pyerforming on ac- count of the war, in which they imagined themfelves about to be engaged ; and moft probably the bodies of our flain countrymen were at that time burning. »•: We remained the whole night undiilurbed, except by the bowlings and lamentations which were heard on lliore; and early the next morning, Koah came along- fide the Refolution, with a prefent to v:^t. I have men- tioned before, that I was fuppoled, by the natives, to be the fon of the Captain ; and as he, in his life-time, had always fulibied them to believe it, I was probably confidercd as the chief, after his death. As fcon as 1 came on deck, 1 queilioned him about the body; and, on his returning me nothing but evafive anfweis, I re- fufed to accept his prefents, andtvas g-oing to diiniifs hiln, with fome expreilions of anger and refcntment, had not Captain Gierke judged it bcti, at all events, to J;eep up the appearance or friendlhip, and thought it more proper, that he (houid be treated with the ufuai i'cfpc^. He was exceedingly urg^ent with us to go on ' :r • ■ ' • • * ' • ' '. '■ ^ Ihore, THIRD VOYAGE. 469 fliore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bo- dies on the other chiefs; and afluring us, that every thing might be fettled to our fatisiadion, by a perlonal interview with their king. However, his condudl was too fufpicious to make it prudent to comply with this requeft; and he left us. The greateft part of the day was taken up m getting the fore-mad into a proper fituation on deck, Tor the carpenters to work upon it, and in making the necef- fary alterations in the commiflion of the officers. The command of the expedition having devolved on Cap- tain Gierke, he removed on board the Refolution, ap- pointed Lieutenant Gore to be Captain oftheDifco- very, and promoted Mr. Hervey, a midfliipman, to the vacant Lieutenancy. During the whole day, we met with no interruption from the natives ; and at night, the launch was again moored with a top-chain, and guard-boats ftationed round both fliips as before. About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling towards the (hip, and as loon as it was feen, both the centinelson deck fired inro it. There were two perlbns in tlie canoe, and they injmediateiy roared out Tinnec, (which was the way in which they pronounced my name) and faid they were friends, and had iomething for me belonging to the Captain. When they came on board, they threw themlelves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt, notwithftanding the balls of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One of them, after the lofsof the Orono, told us, that he had brought apart of his body. He then prelentcd to us a Imall bundle wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm; and it is in;pofiible to delcribe the horror which feized us, on finding in it, a piece of human ili'lh, about nine or ten pounds weight. This, he jaitl, was all that remained of the body; that the reft was cut to pieces, and burnt; but that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the pofieflion ot their king, and the other Earees; and what we favy had been allotted to Kaoo, the chiti" 470 '■ CAPTAIN COOK S of the priefts, to be made ufe of in fome religious cere* mony; and that he haa fent it as a proof of his -inno- cence and attachment to us. This afforded an opportunity of informing ourfelves, whetlier they were canibals; and we did not negledl it. We firll tried, by many indirect queftions» put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the reft of the bodies had been difpofed of; and finding them very conilant in one ftory, that after the fle(h had been cut off, it had ail been burnt; we at laft put the dired queftion, whether they had not eat fome of it ? They tnimediately (hewed as much horror at the idea, as an European would have done; and afked, very naturally, if that was the cuftom amongft us ? They afterwards afked us, with great earncftnefs and apparent appre- henlion, " When the Orono would come again ? and what he would do to them on his return ?'* The fame inquiry was frequently made afterwards by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenour of their conduvSt towards him, which ihewed, that they con- fidered him as a being of a fuperior nature. We prelTed.our two friendly vifitors to remain on board till morning, but in vain. They told us, that, if this tranfadtion fliould come to the knowledge of the king or chiefs, it might be attended with the mod fatal confequences to the whole fociety (the priefls) in i order to prevent which, they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark, and that the fame precaution would be neceifary in returning on fliore. They in- formed us farther that the chiefs were eager to avenge the deaths of their countrymen; and, particularly, cautioned us againft trufting Koah, who, they laid, was our mortal and implacable enemy ; and defired nothing more ardently, than an opportunity of fight- ing us; to which the blowing of fome conchs, we had - iiearu in 'the morning, was meant as a challenge to , fight us. We learned from thefe men, that 17 of their coun- trymen had been killed in the iirft action at Kowrowa, •' pf whom five were chiefs j and ihat Kancena and his * . -J brother, THIRD VOYAGE. 47^ DFOthcr, our very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they faid, were killed at the obfervatory, three of whom were alfo of the firft rank. *« About eleven o'clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaution to defirc, that our guard-boat might attend them till they had paffcd the Difcovery, left they fliould again be fired upon, which might alarm their countrymen on (hore, and expofe them to the danger of being difcovered. This requeft was compli- ed with, and we had the fatisfadtion to find, that they got fafe to fliore. On thft 1 6th about noon, finding us perfift in our inadivity, great bodies of the natives, after blowing their conchs, and ufing every mode of defiance, march- ed off, over the hills, and never appeared afterwards. Thefe, however, who remained, were not the lefs daring and infolent. . One man had the audacity to come within mufquet Ihot, a head of the fliip, and after fling- ing feveral (tones at us, he waved the Captain's hat over his head, whilft his countrymen were exulti ig, and encouraging his boldnefs. Our people were all in a flame at this infult, and coming in a body on the quar- ter deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with repeated provocations, and requelled me to obtain permiflion for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themfelves of the firft fair occafion of revenging the death of their commander. On my acquainting him with what was pafling, he gave orders for fome great guns to be fired at the natives on fliore, and promifed the crew, that if they fliould meet with any moieftatiou at the watering-place the next day, they fliould then be left at liberty to chaftife them. . - -' - It is fomething remarkable, that before we could bring our guns to bear, the natives had fufpeded our intentions, from the ftir they faw in the fl>ip, and had retired behind their houfes and walls. We were there- fore obliged to fire, in fome meafure, at random ; not- withftanding which, our (hot produced the effeds that could have been defircd. For, foon after, we faw Koah paddling 47^ .. CAPTAIN cook's paddling towards us, with extreme hafte, and on his arrival, we learned, that {'ome people had been killed, and amongll: the reft, Maiha-maiha, a principal chief, and a near relation to the king. Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys fwam off from the Morai towards the iliips, having each a long I'pear in his hand, and after they had approached pretty near, they began to chant a long, in a very lolemn manner; the iubjcd: of which, from their often men- tioning the word Orono, and pointing to the vihage where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous difaller. Having lung in plaintive Itrain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the water, they Wv.nt on board the Difcovery, and delivered their Ipears, and after rftaking a fhort flay, returned on lliorc. Who tent them, or what was the objedl of this cere- mony, we were never able to learn. 1 d: •-!;■ At night, the ufual precautions were taken for the fecurity of the (liips; and as foon as it was dark, our two friends, who i)ad viiiied us the night before, came off again. They aflured us, that though the effeds of our great guns, this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid afide their hoRile intcntiors, and adviibd us to be always on our guard. The next morning the boats of both (hips were fent afhore for water, and the D;lcovery was warped clofe to the beach, in order to cover their fervice. We foon found, that the intelligence which the priefts had lent us, was not without foundation; and that the natives were refolved to. take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without much rifk. In fad, our people were lb taken up in attending to their own ikfety, that they employed the whole forenoon in fil- ling only one ton of water. As it was therefore im- poffibie to perform this fervice, till their alTailants were driven to a greater diftance, the Difcovery was ordered to dillodge them, with her great guns; which being efTeiflcd by a few difcharges, the men landed without moleflation. THIRD VOYAGE. . 473 moleftation. However, the natives foon after made their appearance again j and it w;s now found abfolute* ly neceflary to burn down fome few ftraggUfig boufps near a wall, behind which they had taken (belter. In executing thefe orders, I am forry to add, that our peo- ple were hurried into a'l ■?^' 474 CAPTAIN COOK^S Soon after the village was deftroyed, we faw, com- ing down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, and plantains in their hands. I knew not how it happened, that this peaceful embafly, as foon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not ftop them. They continued their proccflion, and the officer on duty came up, in time, to prevent a fecond dif- charge. As they approached nearer, it was found to be our much efteemed friend Kaireekeea, the pried, who had fled on our fetting fire to the village, and had now returned, and defired to be fent on board the Refolution. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him underftand the neceflitv we were under of fetting fire to the village, by which his houfe, and thofe of his brethren, were unintentionally confumed. He expollulated a little with us on our want of friend- Ihlp, and on our ingratitude. And indeed, it was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us, that relymg on the promifes I had made them, and on the affur- ances they had afterwards received from the men, who had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their cfFefts back into the country, with the reft of the inhabitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well ^s what they had collefted from us, into a houfe clofe to the Morai, where they had the mortification to fee it all fet on fire by us. ini-^> t n. r .- '"'On coming on board, he had feen the heads of liis Countrymen, lying on the deck, at which he was exceedingly {hocked, and defired, with great earn- eftriefs, that they might be thrown oterboard. This rei^ueft Captain Gierke immediately ordered to be complied with. .. - ' . : . /.^; i ;.* j ui. In the evening, the Watering party i'etufhed on board, having met with no farther interruption. We ; faw, coni- fifteeu or oth, green knew not ^/, asfoon fire of a ftop them, officer on econd dif- was found ekeea, the he viJJage, fent on sceedingly to make offetting d thofe of med. He of friend- ed, it was ent of the lat relying the aflur- the men, lin Cook, ^ into the It had put 1, as >ve]I oufe clofe ion to fee heads of :h he was ?at earn- d. This ?d to be jrned on ion. We Faffed THIRD VOYAGE. 475 padtd a gloomy night; the cries and lamentations we heard on (hore being far more dreadful than ever. Our onjy confolation was, the hope that we Ihould have no occafion, in future, for a repetition of fuch feverities. It is very extraordinary, that amidft all thefe dif- turbances, the women 01 the ifland, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor difcovered the fmalleft apprehenfions cither for themfelves or their friends on Ihore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that forae of them, who were on deck wheii the town was in flames, fcemed to admire the fight, and cried out, that it was maitai, or very fine. The next morning, Koah came off as ufual to the fhips. As there exifted no longer any neceflity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he approached towards, the fide of the (hip, finging his fong, and offering me a hog, and fome plantains, 1 ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Cap- tain Cook's bones, left his life iljould pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of promife. He did not ap- pear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately on fhore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting the waterers with Hones. The natives being at lafl convinced that it was rot the want of ability to punifli them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations, defifted from giving us further molcftation; and, in the evert- ing, a chief called Eappo, who had feldom vifited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very firft confequcncc, came with prefents from the king to fue for peace. The prefents were received apd he was difmiflcd with the fame anfwer which had before been given, that until the remains of Captain Cook, ihould be rcltorcd, no peace would be granted. Wq learned from this perlbn, that the flelh of all the bodies of our people^, together with the bones of the tr^nkSi had been burnt ; that the limb bones of the O o o 2 marines .* f-i'_' f ^ 4/6 CAftAtlt ll()wing manner: the head to a great chief, trailed Kahoo-opeon ; the hair to IVlahia-mahia-, and tlic legs, thighs, and arms, to the king. After it \vas dark, many of tlie inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables; and wc alfo received two large prefents of the fame articles from Kairee- keca. llic 19th Avas chiefly taken up in finding and n^ceiving the mefl'agcs which pHlfed between Cap- tain Clerke and the King. Kappo was very prefiing, that free from thefe dreadful vifita- tioflSi Of the quadrupeds in thefe iflands, the only fort worthy of obfervation are the dogs, and that merely OQ account of the imaniieri ki which they arc treated ^itl iiiw-bootcn ■-",♦'--. ■ ii- :'':^f^ 489 CAPTAIN COOl^S here; a mariner (0 different from the Europeans. Thefc dogs are about the fize of the common tur-aipiti ex- ceeding iluggiQi in their nature; which may be more owing to the manner in which they are treated, than to their natural difpofition. They are, in general, fed, and left to herd, with the hogs; nor did there appear one inftance in which a dog was made a companion in the manner we tlo in Europe. Indeedj the cuftdni of eating them is an infuperable bar to their admiflion intofocicty; and as there are neither beads of prey in the iflands, nor objects of chacc, it is probable, that the focial qualities of the dog, his fidelity, attachment, and fagacity, will remain unknown lo the natives. With refpeci^ to the vegetables, the mod remark- abie were feveral large roots brought to the fliips at -Onecheow. They were of a brown colour, Ihaped like a yam, and from fix to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it yields in great abundance, is very fweet, and of a pleafant tafte, and was found to be an c-xcellent fubftitute for fugar. The natives arc very fond of it, and ufe it as an article of their common diet; and our people alfo found it very palatable and whole- ibmc. It was fuppoled to be the root of fome kind of lern. .i-s''-; _ u.ui'' i; r-\n • . •, ; The natives of thefe iflands, are, in general, above the middle llze, and well madej they walk very grace- fully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are fome- what inferior, in point of itrength and activity, to thp Friendly illanders, and the women iefs delicately limb- ed than thofe of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather darker than that of the Otahciteans, and they are i;ot altogether fo handfome a people. However, many of both fexes had fine open counteuances ; and the womea in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a fweetnels and fenlibility of look, which rendered them very en- gaging. Their hair is of a brovvnifli black, and nei- ther uniformly llraight, like that of the Indians in America, nor uniformly curling, as aniong the African negroes, but varying, in this rel'ped, iike the Itair of - . • Europeans. '^^ i.i» V .s '^^4fT ft' :^^ 'm , i^ . ^ *^ THIRD VOYAGE, 48ft Europeans. One ftriking peculiahty, in the features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have fcen any where mentioned ; which is, that, even in the handfomeil faces, there is always a ful- nefs of the noftril, without any flatnefs or fpreading of the nofe, that diftinguilhes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that this may be the efFedl of their ufual mode of falutation, which is performed by prefs- ing the ends of their nofes together. Notwithftanding the irreparable lofs we fuffered from the fudden refentment and violence of the people, yet, in juftice to their general condudl, it mufl be acknow- ledged, that they are of the moft mild and affedionate difpofition ; equally remote from the extreme levity and ficklenefs of the Otaheiteans, and the diftant gravity and refei-vc of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands. They appear to live in the utmoft harmony and friend- fliip with one another. The women, who had chil- dren, were remarkable for their tender and conftant attention to them ; and the men would often lend their afliftance in thofe domeftic offices, with a willingncfa that does credit to their feelings. It muft, however, be obferved, that they fall very fliort of the other iilanders, in that bed teft of civiliza- tion, the refpcds paid to the women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the men, but the beft forts of food are tabooed, or fore- bidden them. They are not allowed to eat pork, tur- tle, feveral kinds of fi(h, and fome fpecies of the plan- tains ; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating, for having eaten, on board our ihip, one of thefe interdi(fi:ed articles. In their domeftic life, they appear to live almoft entirely by themfelves, and though we did not obferve any inftances of perfonal ill treat- ment, yet it was evident they had little regard or at- tention paid them. The great hofpitality and kindnefs, with which we were received by them, have been frequently remarked ; and indeed they make the principal part of ourtran- fatftions with them. Whenever we came on Ihore, ifyy^--^ Ppp there 4^2 CAPTAIN COOK*S :n there was a conftant • :ftruggle who (hould be moft for- ward in making^ us little prefents, bringing refrefhments, or (hewing fome other mark, of their refped. The okl people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy; feemed higlily gratified, with being allowed to toucji us, and were conftantly making comparifons betweeil themfelves and us, with the flrongefl marks of humility. The young women were not lefs kind and engaging, and till they found, notwithftanding our endeavours to prevent it, that they had reafon to repent of our ac- quaintance, attached themfelves to us without the leail referve. In juftice^ however, to the fex, it muft be obferved, that thefe ladies were probably all of the lower clafs of the people, for I am ftrongly inclined to believe, that, excepting the few, whofe names are mentioned in the Courle of the narrative, we did not fee any woman of rank in the ifland. vp ";'^f> ' "'< >»f;5;>;i ?ni! ii.. i Their natural capacity feems, in no refpeift, below the common ftandard of mankind. Their improve- ments in agricultre, and the perfcdion of their manu- faftures, are certainly adequate to the circumltances of their fituation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiofity, with which they attended the ar- mourer's forge, and the many expedients they had in- vented, even before we left the iflands, for working the iron they had procured from us, in fuch forms as were bell adapted for their purpofes, were Urong proofs of docility and ingenuity. Our unfortunate friend, Ka.ieena (killed with his brother and fifteen of the natives in the fatal conflid with Capt. Cook) pofleffed a degree of judicious cu- riofiry, and a quicknefs ot conception, which was rarely met with amongfl thele people. He was very inquiiitive after our cuftoms and manners ; afked after our king j the nature of our government ; our numbers; the method of building our fhips; our houfes ; the pro- duce of our country j whether we had wars ; with whom J and on wliat occafions; and in what manner they were c"arricd on j who was our God 3 and many ^ ., .; u , other THIRD VOYAGE. i> other ()ae(lions of the fame nature, which indicated an underftanding of great compreheniion. We met with two inftances of perfons difordercd in their minds, the one a man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the particular attention and refpedt paid to them, that the opinion of their being infpired by the Divinity, which obtains among mofl of the nations of the Eaft, is alfo received hei'e. ■' i^i-iptt •'' ♦•' i"^" ■-; . '• • " ■ ■■•'./■'>; The inhabitants of thefe iflands differ from thofe of the Friendly Ifles, in fuffering, almoft univerfally, their beards to grow. There were, indeed, a few, amongft whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely ; and others that wore it only upon their tipper lip. The fame variety, in the manner of wearing the hair, is alfo obfervable here, as amorig the other inlanders of the fouth Teas ; befides which, they have a fadiion, as far as we know, peculiar to themfelves. They cut it clofe on each fide the head, down to the ears, leaving a ridge, of about a fniall hand's breadth, running from the forehead to the neck j which, when the hair is thick and- curling, has the form of acreft of the ancii- ent helmet. Others wear large quantities of falfe hair, flowing down their backs in long ringlets ; and others again, tie it into a fingle round bunch on the top of the head, almoft as large as the head itfelf ; and fome into five or fix diftinft bunches. They daub their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered fliells, which they keep in balJs, and chew it into a kind of foft p:.fte, when they have occafion to make ufe of it. This keeps the hair fmooth, and in time, changes it to a pale yellow colour. Both fexes wear necklaces, made of ftrings of fmali variegated fliells ; and an ornament, in the form of the handle of the cup, about two inches long, and half an inch broad, made of wood, ftone, or ivory, finely po- liflied, which is hung about the neck, by fine threads of twifted hair, doubled fometimes an hundred fold. ^nilcAd of this ornament, fome of them wear on their )t: * t . - • P p p 2 breaft. ! 4S4 CAPTAIN COQk's bread, a fmall human figure, made of bone, fufpend^ in the fame manner. 1 <-» ^ . - - • .T*- ■'' \'? ^^vf. , The fan, or fly-flap, is alfo an ornament ufed by both fexes. The moll ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied looie, in bunches, to the top of a fmooth poliihed handle. The tail feathers of the cock, and of the tropic bird, are alfo ufed in the fame manner j but the moft valuable are thoie which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones of an enemy flain in battle, and which are prefervcd with great care, and handed down, from father to Ion, as trophies of incltimable value. The cuiloiii of tatowing the body, they have in common with the reft of the natives of the South Sea iflands, but it is only at New Zealand, and the Sand- wich iflr.nds, that they tatow the face. »i..ii? vjk ■ The exad: refemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmet formerly worn by the Spaniards, was too ftriking not to excite our curiofity to inquire, whe- ther there were any probable grounds for fuppofing it to have been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power, of obtaining information on this fubjed, we found that they had no immediate knowledge of any other nation whatever ; nor any tra- dition remaining among them of thefe iflands, having been ever vilited before by any fuch Ibips as ours. But notwithftandlng the rciuit of thefe inquiries, tl^e un- common form of this habit appears to me a iufficicnt proof of its European origin ; elpecially when added to another circumfiancc, that it is a lingular deviation from the general refemblance in drefs, which prevails amongft: all the branches of this tribe, dilpericd through the South Sea. We were driven indeed, by this con- clufion, to a luppolition of the (hipwreck of fome Buc- caneer, or Spaniih (hip, in the neighbourhood of thefe iflands. But when it is recolJtdcd, that the courle of ;'T* ' ;■ the a8$ captain cook's the Spanifli trade from the Acapulco to the Manillas, is but a few degrees to the Southward of the Sandwich lilands, in their jihffage out, and to the Northward, on their return, this fuppofition will not appear in the lead improbable. ^ <•■• •'^-.' ^^v .k.jn^ iu The common drefs of the women bears a ciofe i*efem- blance to that of the men. They wrap round tlie waift a picc« of cloth, that reaches half way down the thighs; and fomctimes in the cool of the evening, they ap- peared with loofc pieces of fine cloth thrown over their (boulders, like the women of Otahcite. The pau is another drefs very frequently worn by the younger part of the fex. It is made of the thinned and fined fort of cloth, wrapt feveral times round the waift, and defcending to tiie leg ; fo as to have exactly the ap- pearance of a full fiiort petticoat. Their hair is cut fliort behind, and turned up before, as is the faHiion among the Otaheiteans and New Zealanders ; all of whom differ in this refpetf^ from the women of the Friendly Jflands, who wear their hair long. We faw, indeed, one woman in Karakakooa Bay, whofe hair was arranged in a very fingular manner; it was turned «p behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, fo as to form a ibrt of fliade for the face, like a fmall bonnet. Their necklaces are made of fliells, or of a hard fliin iflg red berry. Befides which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow; and another beauti- ful ornament called Eraie, which is generally put about the neck, but is fometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and fometimes worn in both thefe ways at once. It is a ruff of the thicknefs of a finger, n;ade in a curious manner, ol exceeding fmall leathers, wo- ven fo clofe together as to form a furface asfmoothas ^hat of the riched velvet. The ground was generally (if a red colour, with alternate circles of greeen, yellow, and black. At -Atooi, fome of the women wore little .figures ot the turtle, neatly formed of wood or ivory, tied on their Angers in tlie manner we wear rings. Why this ani- mal 'THIRD VOYAGE. 487 mal is thus particularly didinguifhed, 1 leave to the conjectures of the curious. There is alfo an ornament made of (hells, faftened in rows on a ground of (tfong netting, fo as to ftrike each other, when in motion ; which both men and women, when they dance, tic either round the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Jnftead of fliells, they fometimes make ufe of dog's teeth, and a iiard red berry, refembling that of the holly, .'j.v. A,M7 'i,x iiti», .t*"i.i; 1 .;■ ' •' 'vv'i to ^?f«.3 E There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if fuch it may be called,) the figure of which may be conceived by the following defcription : It is a kind of maik, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for the eyes and nofe. The top was ftuck full of fmall green twigs, which, at a diilance, had the ap- pearance of an elegant waving plume ; and from the lower part hung narrow ftripes of cloth, refembling a beard. We never faw thefe maiks worn- but. twice, and both times by a number of people together in a canoe, who came to .ne fide of the (hip, laughing and drolling, with an air of mafquerading. Whether they may not likewife be ufed as a defence for the head againfl flones, for which they fecm beft defigned, or in fome of their public games, or be merely intended for the purpofes of mammery, we could never inform ourfeives. In addition to the furniture of their houfes, which has been accurately defcribcd by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on which they deep, with wooden pillows, or fleeping ftools, exactly like thofe of the Chinele. Some of the better fort oi* houfes have a court-yard before them, neatly railed in, with fmaller houfes built round it, for their fervants. In this area they generally eat, and (it during the day- time. In the fides of the hills, and among the deep rocks, we alfo obferved feveral holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited j but as the entrance was de- fended with wicker-work, and we alfo found, in the only one that was vifited, a (tone fence running acrofs '( rfT / ■!'.• 'M*m f ■! H J ■■ 488 CAPTAIN cook's it within, we imagine they are principally dcfigncd for places of retreat, in cafe of an attack from an enemy. The way of fpending their time appears to be very fmiple, and to admit of little variety. They rife with the fun J and, after enjoying the cool of the evening, retire to reft a few hours after fun-fet. The making of canoes and mats forms the occupations of the Ereesj the women are employed in manfaduringcloth 9 and the Towtows are principally engaged in the plantations and fifliing. Their idle hours are filled up with various amufements. Their young men pnd women are fond of dancing ; and, on more folemn occafions, they have boxing and wreftling matches, after the manner of the Friendly Iflands; though, in all thefe refpeds, they arc much inferior to the latter. > -fi' » '.>n • ^^'ip-riv ' Their dances have a much nearer refemblance to thofe of the New Zealanders, than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Iflanders. They are prefaced with a flow, folemn long, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and gently ftriking their breads, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are perfed:ly cafy and graceful ; and fofar they are the fame with the dances of the Society lilands. Their mufic is of a ruder kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, nor inilruments of any other fort, that we law, except drums of various fizes. But their fongs, which they fung in parts, and accompany with a gentle motion of the arms, in the fame manner as the Friendly Iflanders, had a very pleafing effed. •* -J' * ' '' It is very remarkable, that the people of thefe iflands are great gamblers. They have a game very much like our draughts ; but, if one may judge from the num- ber of fquares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet long, and is divided into two hun- dred and thirty-eight Iquares, of which there are four- teen in a row, and they make ufe of black and white pebbles, which they move from fquare to fquare. There is another game, which confifts in hiding a ftonc under a piece of cloth, which one of the parties fpreads out^ and rumples in fuch a manner, that the place THIRD VOYAGE. 489 place where the (lone lies is difficult to be di(lingui(hed. The antagonill, with a lllck, then (Irikes the part ot the cloth where he imagines the (tone to be ; and as the chances are, upon the whole, conficlcrabiy againlt his hitting it, odds, of all degrees, varying with the opi- nion oF the /kill of the parties, arc laid on the fide of him who hides. . .• ... ., Biifides thefe games, they frequently amufe them- felves with racing-matches JDetwecn the boys and girls j and here again they wager with great fpirit. 1 law a man in a mod violent rage, tearing his hair, and beat- ing his breaft, after lofing the hatchets at one of thefc races, which he had jult before purchalai from us, with half his fubftance. Swimming is not only a neceflary art, in which both their men and women are more expert than any people we have hitherto feen, but a favourite divcrfion amongfl: them. One particular mode, in which they, fomctimes amufe themfelves with this exercile, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared moft perilous and extraordinary, and well delcrving a dirtind relation, ^rn -.^ • .■ , •}'■ rr ->"^ The furf, which breaks on the coaft round the bay, extends to the diftance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the (hore, within which fpace, the lurges of the fea, accumulating from the (haliownefs of the water, are daflied againll the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from ftormy weather, or any extraordinary fwell at lea, the impctuofity of the lurf is increafed to its utmoft height, they choole that time for their amulement, which is {performed in the follow- ing manner : Twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at J he ends, fet out together from the (liore. The firll wave they meet, they plunge under, and fuffer it to roll over them, rife again beyond it, and make the bell of their way, by fvvimming out into the lea. The (econd wave is en^ countered in the lame manner with the fird ; the great difficulty is in letting the proper mom«;nt of divingunder it, which, if miffed, the perfon is caught by the furf, and driven back again with great yiolence s and alJ his 21 Q^q q dexterity 490 CAPTAIN COOK 9 dexterity is then required to prevent himfelf from bein^ dadied againft the rocks. As toon as they have gained, by thcfe repeated efforts, the fmooth water beyond the furf, they lay themfelvcs at length on their board, and prepare for their return. As the lurf confifts of a number of waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the others, and to flow higher on the fliore, the reft breaking in the interme- diate rpace, their firft objcd is to place themlelves on the fummit of the largelt lurge, by which they are dri- ven along with amazing rapidity towards the Ihore. If by miftake they Ihould place themfelvcs on one of I the fmallcr waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or fhould not be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the Iwell, they arc left to the fury of the next, and to avoid it, are obliged again to dive and regain the place from which they fet out. Thofe who lucceed in their object of reach- ing the Ihore, have ftiil the greatcft danger to encoun- ter. The coaft being guarded by a chain of rocks, with here and there a fmall opening between them, they are obliged to fteer their board on one of thefe, or, in cafe of failure, to quit it, before they reach the rocks, and plunging under the wave, make the beft of their way back again. This is reckoned very dilgrace- ful, and is often attended with the lofs of the board, which 1 have often feen, with great terror, dalhcd to pieces, at the very moment the iflander quitted it. The boldnefs and addrefs, with which we faw them perform thefe difficult and dangerous manoeuvres, was altoge- ther aftonifliing, and is fcarcely to be credited. An ac -ident, of which 1 was a near fpeftator, fliews at how caiiy a period they are fo far familiarized to the water, as both to lofe all fear of it, and to let its dan- gers at dctiance. A canoe being overlet, in which was a woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was not more than four years old, feemed highly delighted with what had happened, fwimming about at its eafe, and playing a hundred tricks, tiU the. canoe was put to right again...- . X. . .■:.- ,' V. x! i^Befides '(< ji Be the yd at, ani take a rupnini about made with t^ immed turn tl| point lin*ie. (ii'ne th'^ir t qucnll] lime. divert Th agriculf of the on thol iculptu the bo ufually round, by thre various their f the he J figures neatly.' in fupi Tl the fat That \ flrong rated 1 two oi patter fign, : 4; ■ THirxD VOYAGE, 4^1 Bcficles the amufements^ I have already merU'ioncd, the young children have one, which was much played at, and Hiewed no fmall degree of dexterity. They take a Ihort Hick, with a peg (harpened at both ends, running through one extremity of it, and extending about an incli on each lule ; and throwing up a ball Uiade of green leaves moulded together, and fecured with twine; they catch it on the point of the peg j and immediately throwing it up a<;ain from the peg, they turn the nick round, and thus keep catching it on Cvich point alttrnately, without miffing it for a confiderable time. They are not lefs expert at another game of the fa'ne nature, tofling up in the air, and catching in th;^ir turns a number of thefe balls ; fo that we fre- quently faw little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter play, the young people likewife divert thcmfelvesat the Friendly Jflands. The great refemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and navigation, amongft all the inhabitants of the South Sea iflands, leaves me very little to add on thofe heads. — The mod curious fpecimens of their fculpture, which we law during our fecond vifit, are the bowls in which the chiefs drink ava. Thefe arc ufually about eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifiilly polillied. They are fupported by three, and fometimes four fmall human figures in various attitudes. Some of them reft on the hands of their fupporters, extended over the head j others on the head and hands; and fome on the (boulders. The figures, I am told, are accurately proportioned, and neatly finilhed, and even the anatomy of the mufcles, in fupporting the weight, well exprefled. Their cloth is made of the fame materials, art^lrt the fame manner as at the Friendly and Society lllands. That which is defigned to be painted, is of a thick and flrong texture, feveral folds being beaten and incorpo- rated together ; after which it is cut in breadths, about two or three feet wide, and is painted in a variety of patterns, with a comprehenfive and regularity of de- fign, that belpeaks infinite tafte and fancy. The ex- Qqqz actnefs ■n i I i 49^ ca'ptain cooks adlncfs witli which the mod intricate patterns are con tinued, is the more fbrprizing, when we confider that ihey have no flamps, ai:.! that the whole is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo cane dipped in paint ; the hand being fupported by another piece of the cane, in the manner praftifed by our painters. Their colouis are extradled from the lame berries, and other vegeta- ble fubdances, us at Otaheite. The bufinefs of painting belongs intirely to the wo- men, nnd is called kipparee ; and it is remarkable that they always gave the (rime name to our writing. TIk young women would often take tlie pen out of our hands, and fliew us, that they knew the ufe of it a< well as we did J at the fame time telling u^,, that cur pens were not fo good as theirs. They looked upon a Iheet of written papei", as a piece of cloth ilriped after the fafliion of our country, and it was not without the utniofl; difficulty, that we could mak- them underflancl, that oui* figures had a meaning in them which theirs liAd not. Their mats are made of the leave« of pandanus ; and, as well as their clorhs, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and flained of different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, fpotted with fquares, or romhoids of red ; others are of a flraw colouiv fpotted with green ; and others are worked with beau tiful ftripes, either in flraight or waving lines of ret' and brown. In this article of manufa(^l:urc, whethci we regard the ftrength, finenefs, or beauty, they certainly excel the whole world. Their fi filing- hooks are m£lde of mother-of-pearl , bone, or wood, pointed and barbed with fmall bone?, or tortoife-nicll. They are of various fizes and forms ; but the molt common are about two or three inches long, and made in the fliape of a fmall filh*, which ferves as a bait, having a bunch of feathers tied to the head or tail. Thofe with which they fifh for (harks, fire of a very large lize, being -generally fix or eight inches long. Confidering the materials of which thefc THIRD VOYAGE, 49 hooks are made, their flrength and neat ncfs are really aftonifliing ; and in faft we found them upon trial, much fuperior to our own. The line which they ufe for fidiing, for making net?, and for other domellic purpofes, is of different degrees of iinenefs, and is made of the bark of the toutwi, or cloth tree, neatly and evenly twified in the fame manner as our common twine ; and may be continued to any length. They have a finer fort, made of the bark of a fmall flirub called Areemrh ; and the finefi; is n^adc of human hairj but this lafl is chiefly ufed for thing? of ornament. They alfo make cordage of a ilronger kind, for the rigging of their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we purchafed for our own ufe, and found i: well adapted to the fmaller kinds of running rigging. They likewife make another fort of cordage, which is flat, and exceedingly itrong, and ufed principally in lafliing the roofing of their houfes, or whatever they wifli to fallen tight together. This lad is not twided like t.ie former fort?, but is made of the fibrous Airings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner our fuilors make their points for the reefing of lails. The gourds grow to fo enormous a fze, that fome of them are capable of containing from ten to twelve gallons, are applied to all manner ot domeftic purpofes ; and in order to fit them the better to their refpedlive ufes, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying bandages round them during their growth. Thus, fome ot them are of a long cylindrical torm, as befi: adapted to contain their fifliing-tackle ; others are of a difli form, and thefe ferve to hold their fait, and faked provifions, their puddings, vege- tables, &c. which two forts have neat clofe covers, made likewife of the gourd ; others again are exadly the (liape of a bottle with a long neck, and in thefe they keep their water. They have likewife a method of fcouring them with a heated infirument, (o as to give them the appearance of being painted in i variety of weat and elegant defigns. From 494 CAPTAIN COOK S From the Sandwich Ifland?, Captain Gierke ^ent hi? courle to the coaft of KamptfchLUka, in fight of which he came on the izd ot April, 1779. On the- 25rh he loft fight of the Difcovery j but coming to anchor in the Bay jt Awatika, on the 281 ti, at lonie dillariue from the fmall town and iiarbour of Si. Peter and Si. Paul, he had the fatisfadion of feeing her ftand into the Bay on the firft of May. This town, otiierwile called Pe- tropaulowilu ; c<3nfifted only of a few mifer::!"*le log- houfes and iome comical huts, raifed on poles. But, in this wretched extremity of the earth, fituated beyond every thing that could i^e conceived to be moft barba- rous and inh()i|;itable, and, as it were out of the very reach of civilization, barricaded with ice, and covered with fummer Inow in a poor miferable port, far infe- rior to the meaneft of our fi(hing town?, they met with feelings of humanity, joined to a g^eai 'fs of mind, which would have done honour t / uu/ nation or climate.- ;--';''^ ^' ■'''' \ '^^'^ ■ ' ' •;---'•/••■ - The arrival of the (liips gave great alarm at firil to the Commander at Petropaulowfki ; bat proper ex- planations and confeqaent civilities foon took place. Mr. King. Mr. Webber, and twofailois, \^ho had each a boat-hook, being fent to wait upon the Commander, who was a (crjeant in the RuflTian fervice, met with great difficulties in walking over the ice, which extended half a mile from the (hore. On their return, therefore, the ferjeant provide^' a fledge, drawn by five dop- vith a driver for each of them. The failors wei * •.' iy delighted with this mode of conveyance; a-c "/n- i diverted them ftill more was, that a fledge was ap)| «o- priated to each of the boat-hooks. As there was no poflTibility of procuring provifionsor naval ftoresat Petropaulowflti ; and as the ferjeant could not ad in this affair without orders from the RuflTian CommandcrofKamptfchatka,vvhorefKiedatBolcheretfk, a town on the wed fide of the Peninfula, dif. nt from Petropaulowfki about 135 miles; the ferjeai^'i on the firft interview, had difpatched a meflTenger to his iupe- rior officer. This meflenger, who was lent off on the fi9th early little jourr THIRD VOYAGE. 495 S9tli, about noon, in a fledge drawn by dogs, returned early in the morning on the 3d of May ; (o that he was Uttle more than three days and a half in performing a journey of 270 miles. On the 4th, a Mr. Fedofitfch, a Ruffian merchant, and a German, named Port, (who, in ihe icquc!, proved very ufetul as an interpreter) waited on Captain Clcrkc, with a letter f-'om Major Bchm, the Commander of Kamptlchatka. This letter was merely complimental, inviting Captain Gierke and his oliicers toBolchcretfk, to which place the people who brought it were to condu^fl them. Capt. Gore, Mr. King, and Mr. Webber being ap- pointed by Capt. Cleriie to wait upon the Commander at Bolcheretik, they IcC out on the 71'.^., a:com[u;iied by MelTrs. Fedoiitfch and Port, and two Coflacks. Part of the way they proceeded, by the tediops -and difficult navigation of the river Awatika. Jn the evening tliey ereded a marquee, and llept on Ihore. In th-c iiiornmg of the 8th, they w.re m.t by theToion orcr.icf of the Oftrog of Karatchin, an Oilrog, is a fn.all town, for- tified by palifadoe<:, where the Rufii.in CofiacLs and other inhabitants refide) who, having been aj)pri2ed of their coming, had provided canoes that v/ere better con- trived fjr navigating the higlier part of the river. When they arrived at the Oil: og, they were received at the water fick by the Kamptfcbadale men and women, and fome Rulliau i'ervants belonging t^) Fedofitlch. They were all drcff: ! out in their beft clotlies. Thoie of the women were pretty and gay, confilling of a full loofe robe ot white nankeen, gathered clofe round the neck, and faftened with a collar of coloured filk. Over this they wear a Ihort jacket without flecves, made of different coloured nankeens, and petticoats of a flight Chinefe (ilk.. Their Qiifts, which had fleeves down to the wrilts, were alio of filk ; and coloured filk handker- chiefs were bound round their lieads, concealing en- tirely the hair of the married women, while thofe that were unmarried brought the handkerchief under the hair, and fuffercd it to flow ioofc behind*-. | i-y'^wr "'.'■ this . « -. I *> 49^ CAPTAIN cook's This OUrog was pleafantly fituated by the fide of the liver, and confifled of three log-houfes ; three jourts, or houfes made under ground j and nineteen balagans, or fummer habitations. We were conduced to the dwelling of the Toion, who was a plain decenc man, born of a Ruffian woman, by a Kampfchadale father. His houfe, like all the reft in this country, was divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it, was all the furniture we faw in the outer ; and the houfehold fluff of the inner, which was the kitchen, was no lefs fimple and fcanty. But the kind attention of our hoft, and the hearty welcome we received, more than compenfated for the poverty of his lodgings. _ ..:;/.!.... s r. \_ . ;.i^ V His wife proved an excellent cook ; arid ferved us wjth tilli and game of different forts, and various kinds r heath berries^ that had been kept fince the laft year. While we were at dinner in this miferable hut, the ^uefls of the people, with whofe exiftence we had been Icarce acquainted, and at the extremity of the habita- ble globe, a folitary haif-worn pewter fpoon, whofe ihape was familiar to us, attradcd our attention ; and, on examination, we found it ftamped on the back with the word London. I cannot pafsover this circumftance in filence, out of gratitude for the many pleafant thoughts, th- anxious hopes, and tender remembrances it excited in us. Thofe who have experienced the ef- fects that long; abfence and extreme diftance from their native country produce on the mind, will readily con- ceive the plealure luch trifling incidents can give. To the philofopher and the politician they may perhaps fuggell; reflections of a different nature. After the moll hofpitable treatn:ent during the courfe of the day, Mr. King and his party, who were now to proceed on fledges, retired to reft, having previoufly agreed with their condudors to be called up as foon as the ground was hard etiough to bear the fledges. At nine in the evening, they were awaked by the me- lancholy howiings of the dogs^ which continued all the time the baggage was lafliing upon the fledges j but, as . . ' foop. r !>- ■'••5 ft. I ?■ # ,'>•, :$!5* ^•%' # ^:^ ■ , :f-. :-SV- xii*;- ..^ .»•'.',■■■?* ^ ;;^*■ •i« •'•V' ^t. ;■•* >• .:^.; *i |.»- ;;,^ i; ^?^J;^^^ ^ '-V V * . » • •■.*T£r. •■.■^.ft/-' •. ^A ' . •m. ?'*■ i^-i-'r' ,; ^<*f-, M •yi-j.'fi' .:i^' f '«;'/ *t%^ •imi j^j ^: *^/*^' JM , i^,- V I I *" *»*e •^' ; > toon TUniD VOYAGE. 407 loon a"? t'.ie.dogs were yoked, and tb.cy were all pre- pared to (et our, this chatvjjed into a light chetrtul yelping, which entirely teatcvj the inllant clicy march- ed off. ; ; . • ^-'y^:.!.-^-' r ■ : : . ., The body of this fledge is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide, made in the form of a crefcent, of light tough wood, firongly bound together with wicker- work : vvhich in thofe bclono;ino to the better fort of people is elegantly Rained of a rjd and blue co- lour,, and the leat covered with bear fkins, and other furs.: It is fupported by four legs, about two feet high) which reil op two flat pieces of wood, five or lix indies broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the kod^ of the llt'dge. Thefc are turned up before in the man^ ner of the fkate, and (hod with the bones of foitie feai animal. The forepart of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of leather, and taffelR of coloured cloth ; and from the crofs bar, to which the harnefs is joined, are hung links of iron, or fmall bells, the jingling of which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are feldom uled to carry more than one perfon at a time, who fits at one lide,'refiing his feet on the lower part of the fledge, and carrying his provifions and other neceflTaries, wrapped up in a bundle behind hiii>. The dogs, are uiually five in number, yoked two and two with a leader. The reins not beini; faftened to the head of the dogs, but to the collar, have little power over them, and are therefore generally liunS upon the fledge, whilll the driver depends entirely on their obedience to his voice for the dirc^ion dt them. With this view, the leader is z^ways trained with a particular degree of care and attention ; fome of them rifing to a moft extraordinary value on ac- count of their docility and fleadinefs ; infomuch, that for one of thefe, I am well aflured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unufual price. The driver is alfo provided with a crooked llick, which anfwers the purpofe both of whip and reins ; as by ftriking it into the fnow, he is enabled to moderate the fpeed of the dogs, or even to (top thcin entirely ; and when they art a I . . R r r lazy, ! 1S?I ii I 49^ CAPTAIN C00K*6 lazy, or othcrwife inattentive to his voice<^ lie chaftife, them by throwing it at them. Upon thefe occafion, their dexterity in picking it up again is very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art. But it is indeed not furprifing, that they fliould labour to be jkiltul in pradice upon which their fafcty fo materially depends. For they fay, that if the driver flipuld hap^ pen to lofe his ftjck, the dogs will inftantly perceive it, and unlcfs their leader be of the mod Ibber and refolute kind, they will imn^ediately run a-head full fpeed, and jiever flop till they are quite fpent. ^ut as that will Jiot be the cafe foon, it generally happens, that either the carriage is overturned, daOied to pieces againft the ireeSj or they hurry d6wn fome precipice, and are all buried in the fnow. The accounts that were given us of the fpeed of thefe dogs, and of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were fcarcely credible, if they had not been fupported by the beft authority. We were ourfelves witnelfes of the great expedition -with which the meflenger, who had been difpatched to fiolcheretfk with the news *of our arrival, returned to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, though the fnow was, at this titne, exceedingly foft. But I was informed by the commander of Kamtfchatka, that this journey was generally performed in two days and an halt j and that he had once received an exprefs from ' the latter place in twenty-three hours. The dogs are fed during the winter on the offals of dried and fiinking filh -, but are always deprived even of this miferable food a day before they fet out on a journey, and never fuffered to eat before they reach the end of it. We were a(fo told, that it was not unufual for them to continue thus failing two en- tire days, in which time they would perform a journey of 1 20 miles. Thefe dogs are in fliape fomewhat like ^he Pomeraniari breed, but confiderably larger. /-, ; ^ ^ •'Travelling parties are often overtaken with areadful ftormsof fnow, on the approach of which, they drive «ith the utmoft" preciptation, into the neareft wood, fajtd; there are obliged to flay, till the tempeft, which ■v: '^k'n T,ri: ":". . j|99 frequently lafts fix or feven days, is over ; the dogs re- inaiiing all this while quiet and inoffenfive ; except that fortietimcs, when preffed by hunger, they will devour their reins, and other leathern parts of the harnefs. As we did not choofe to truft to our own fkill, we had each of us a man to drive and guide the lledgCj which, from the flate the roads were now in, proved a very laborious tafk. For, as the thaw had advanced very confidcrably in the vallics, through which our road lay, we were under the neceflity of keeping along the fides of thfc hills j and this obliged our guides, who were provided with fnow-fhoes fot that purpofc, to fupport the fledges on the lower fide with thtlt Ihoiilders for fcvcral miles together. I had a vci^ good humdured Coflack to attend me, who was, how- ever, fo very unikilful in his bufinefs, .that we were overturned almoft every minute, to the great entertain- ment pf the reft of the company.. Our party confifted in all of ten fledges. That in which Capt. Gore was tarried, was made of two lafticd together, and abun- dantly provided with furs and bear-fkins ; it had tert dogs, yoked four a-breaft ; as had alfo fome of thofe that were heavy laden with baggage. ,,., ^r ,^ , When he hid proceeeded about fournliles, it began to fain ; whichi added to the darknefs of the night, threw us all into confufion. It was at laft agreed, that we (hould remain where we were till day-light ; and accordingly we came to anchof in the fnow, (for I can- not better exprefs the manner in which the fledges were fecured,) and wrapping ourfelves up in our furs^ waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock we were called on to fet out, our guides being appre- henfive, that if we waited longer^ we might be ftop. ped by the thav(f, ind neither be able to proceed, noi* to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were principally occafioned by the bad condition of the road/at two in the afternoon, we got fafe to Oftrogy called Natcheekin, fituated on the fide of z ftream» which falls into the Bolchoireka, a little way below the town. The diftance betweeaKaratehin and Natcheekia 500 IS :^ C A I' TAIN COOK S 8 wcifts (or 23 iiiiU's) nnd bad the hard frol^ t:onliiiuc(l, we iliould not, by their acrounr, have bc.fii more iban tour hours in ])crfoniiing it ; but tbc the Ihow was lb (oft, that the dogs, almofl at every Hep, t'uuk up to tlieir bellies ; and 1 was indeed much iui'prifed at tlieir being at all able to overcome the tlifhculties ot" fo fatiguing a journey. At Nateheckin wc were received in the fame hofpital^le manner as at Karatchin ; an'J->"'-'ii :»'^^ - '^'^^ . 1^' We agreed to accept the liberality of tliefe'hof- pitablc ftrangers with the belt grace we could ; but on condition, that we might be made acquainted with the price of the articles we were to be fup- piied with ; and that Capt. Gierke fhould give bills to the amount, upon the vi6tuaMing office in London, '^rhis the major politivcly refufed ; and Vrhenever it was afterwards urged, ftopped us fhorty by telling as, he was certain, that he couW not oblige his miftrefs more, than in giving ever affiftance m his ipower to her good friends and s the Englifli ^ and that it wouM be a particular iatisfia£tion to her, to hear, that in fo remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any relief to fhip^ engaged . in fuch fervices as ours j that he could not therefore a6t fo contrary to the chara£ler of his emprefs, as ta accept of any bills ; but that, to accommodate the matter, he would take a bare atteftatipn of the par- ticulars, with which we might be furniflied; and that this he (hould tranfmit to his court; as a certifi- cate of having performed his duty. I fliall leave (he continued) to the two courts, all farther acknow- ledgments ; but cannot confent to accept any thing of the kind alluded to. When the matter was adjufted, he began to in- quire about our priv^ate wants ; faying, he flaould confider himfelf as ill ufed, if we had any dealings with the merchants,' or applied to any other perfon except himfelf. THIRD VOYAGE 50S In return for fuch fingulrir gcncrofity, wc had )ittle to bellow but our admiration and our thanks, fortunately, however, Captain Clerkehad lent by me H fet of prints and maps, beloni^ing to tlie lait voyage of Captain Cook, which he delired me to prefoit m his name to the commander j who Iving an ciuhuliall in every thing relating to difcoverics made in the prefent voyage ; and as I judged, that a perfoii in his fituation, and of his turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this fort, though, out of delicacy he had forborn to alTc more than a few general (jucilions on the fubject, 1 made no fcruple to rcpofe in him a confidence of which his whole condu6^ fliewed him to be de- fervhig. I had the pleafure to find, that he felt this com- pliment as I hoped he would, and was much ftruck iat feeing, in one view, the wliole of that coaft, as well on the fide of Afia as on that of America, of which his countrymen had been fo many years em- ployed in acquiring ^ partial and imperfett know- , I Jixcepting this mark of confidence, and the fet of prints I have already mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the leaft wor(h his ac- cept9.nce j for it fcarce deferves noticing, that I pre- vailed on his foUj, a young boy, to accept of a liiver watch I happened to have about me ; and I madv his little daughter yery happy with two pair of ear rings, of French palte. Befidcs thefetrlHes, I left Captain iJchmaleflf the thermometer 1 had ufed on m\ journey; and he proraifed me to keep an exacl: regifter of the temperature o( the air for one year, and to tranfmit it to Mr. Muller, with whom he had the pleafare of })eing acquainted, t tir-il-nn* u^m-^j :}ud . ^.Inom^^oJ Bolcheretlk is fituated In a low fwampy piriu, -hat extends to the fea of Okotlk, beii.g about 10 liiii^s long, and of a confiderable breadth. 1: lit'-i on the N. (ide of the Bolchoi-reka (or great rivev,) bctv.'tt.-^n li.' they had Tent us twenty loaves of fine fugar, and as many pounds of tea, being articles they underftood we were in great want of, which rhey beg- ged to be indulged in prefenting t« the otficcis. Along with thefe iMadam Behm, had alfo fent a prefent for Captain Gierke, confiding of frefli butter, honey, figs, rice, and fome other little things of the Hime kind, attended with niany wilhes, that, in his infirm ftate of health, they might be of lervice to him. it was in vain we tried to cppofe this profufion of bounty, which 1 was anxious to rtfirain, being convinced, that they were giving away, not a fhare, byt almull tl-e whole flock of the garriion. The conftant aniwer the major returned us, on thofe occafions, was, that we had .fuffercd a great deal, ^nd that we mull needs he in diftrefs. Indeed, the length of time we had been out, fmcc we touched at any known port, appeared to them fo very incredible, that it required the teilimony of our maps and other corroborating circumflances, to gain their belief. Among the latter was a very curious fadt which Major Behm relate^' to us this morning, and 22 S f I" which f^S^^^ 4« f^ ' ^a6 CAPTAIN C00k''9 ■.' which he faid, but for our arrival, he fliould have beert totally at a lofs to account for. It is well known, that the Tfchutiki are the only ' people of the North of Afia, who have maintained their independence, and reflfted all the attempts that have been made by the Ruffians to reduce them. The laft expedition againft them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various fuccefs, in the retreat of the Ruffian forces, and the lofs of the com- manding officer. Since that timcy the Ruffians had removed their frontier fortrefs from the Anadyr to the Ingiga, a river that empties itfelf into the Northern extremity of the (ea of Okotfk, and gives its name to a J ^ gulf, fituated to the Weftof that of Penfliinfk. From this fort, Major Behm had received difpatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretfk, containing intelli- g;ence, that a tribe, or party cf the Tfchutiki, had ar- rived at that place with provifions for friendOiip, and a voluntary offer of tribute 5 that on enquirir^ into the caufe of this unexpeded alteration in their fentiments, they had informed his people, that towards the latter end of lafl fummer they had been vifited by two very large Ruffian boats 5 that they had been treated by the • people, who were in them, with great kindnefs, and had entered into a league of friendlhip and amity with them } and that, relying on his friendly difpofition, they were now come to the Ruffian fort, in order to fettle a treaty, on fuch terms as might be acceptible to both nations. This extraordinary hiftory had occafion- ed much fpeculation^ both at Ingiginfk and Bolcher- etfk j and, had we not furniflied them with a key to it, muft have remained perfe(flly unintelligible. We felt no fmall fatisfadion in having, though accidentally, fliewn the Ruffians, in this inftance, the only true way ofcolledling tribute, and extending their dominions j and in the hopes that the good underftanding, which this event hath given rife to, may refcue a brave peo- ple from the future invafions of fuch powerful neigh- . bours. f »' ia THIRD VOYAGE. 507 In return for the trifles which Mr. King had given to the children of Major Behm, he was prefented by his litte boy, with a moft magnificent Kamptfchadale drefs. it was of the kind worn by the princiral Toions of the country, on occafions of great ceremony, and which he underftood afterwards from Fedofitfch, could not have been purchafed for 120 roubles. At the fame time, he had a prefent from his daughter of a handfome fable muff. The next day we dined with the commander, who, in order to let us fee as much of the manners of the inhabitants, as our time would perm't, invited the whole of the better fort of people in the village to his houfe this evening. All the women appeared very fplendidly drefled, after the Kamptfchadale fafliion. The wives of Captain SchmalefF and the other officers of the garrifon, were prettily drefled, half in the Siberian, and half in the European mode, and Madame Behm, in order to make the flronger contrafl, had unpacked part of her bage, and put on a rich European drefs. I was much flruck with the richnefs and variety of the filks which the women wore, and the fingularity of their habits. The whole was like fome enchanted fcene in the midfl of the wiklcft of dreary country in the world. Our entertainment confilled of finging and dancing. Early in the mu/ning, every thing beiiri ready for our departure, we were invitpi to call on Madame Behm, in our way to the boats, and take our leave of her. Impreffed, as our minds were, with fentin^-nts of the warmeft gratitude, by the attentive; benevolent, and generous treatment we had met wit i at Bolchcretlk, they were greatly heightened, by the afieding fcene which prefented itfclf to us, on leaving; < ar lodgings. All the foldiers and CofTacks, belongii., j the garrifon, were drawn up on one hand, and the male inhabitants of the tpwn, dreffed out in their befl clothes, on the other J and, as foon as we came out of the houfe, the whole body of the people joined in a melancholy long, which, the Major told us, it was ufual, in that country, Sffz to / 1\ / CAPTAIN GOOK S 50% 490 to fing on taking leave of their friend:'^. In this manrer we marched down to the commander's houfe, prececed by the: drums and mufic of the garrifon, where we v ere received by Madam Behm, attended by the ladies, who where dreflcd in long fiik cloaks, lined with very valu- able furs of different colours, which made a moft magrii-* ficent appearance. '■■••''" ''"■■ -' •• ■ ^ -V- ^ ■■■'' ' i'- • After partaking of fome refrefiiment, that was pre- pared for us, we went down lO the water fide, accom- panied by the ladies, who now joined in the fong with thereil of the inhabitants; and as foonas we had taken leave of Madam Behm, and affured her of the grateful {chiQ we fliould ever retain of the hofpitality of Bolche- ret/k, we found ourfelvcs too much affcded not to haften into the boats with all the expedition we could. When we put off, the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat; and as we were doubling a point, where for the laft time we faw our friendly entertainers, they took their fi^rewcl ii^ ♦mother cheer,' ,'-'^-' -■■■^ ■■^- v-r-/. On the return of the party to Petropauiow/ki, they were accompanied by Major Behm, who had refigned the government of Kamptfchatka to his fecond in com-* mand, and was to proceed thence to Okotlk, in his way to Peteriburgh. They arrived at Petropaulowfki on the 23d J and Capt. Gierke, and his incn, did not fail to behave with all the refpeft to the major, which his noble condud had merited. The various curiofitics that had been collcded in the courle of the voyage were ihewn to him, and a complete affortment of every article prefented to him by Capt. Gierke. On this occafion, 1 mud not pafs over an inftance of great generality and gratitude in the failors of both fliips; who, when they were told of the handlome prefent of tobacco that was made theiii by the major, defired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be flopped, and their allowance of jpirits,preient- ed, on (heir part, to the garrifon of Bolcheretik, as they faid they wad reaion u conclude that brandy was fcarce in the couairy, and would be very acceptable tg them, fincij THIRD VOYAGE. CTc fince the foldiers on (here had offered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew how much the failors always felt, whenever their allowance of grog was flop- ped, which was generally done in warm weather, that they might have it in greater proportion in Qold,and thai: this offer would deprive them of it during the inclement feafon we had to expedl in our next expedition to the North, could not but admire foextraordinary afacrifice; and that they might not fuffer by it, Capt. Gierke, and the reft of the officers, fubftituted in the room of the very fmall quantity the major could be prevailed on to accept, the lame quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madam Behm, and fuch other little pretents as were in our power to beftow, were accepted in the moft obliging manner. The next morn- ing the tobacco was divided between the crews of the two (hips, three pounds being allotted to every man that chewed or fnioked tobacco, and only one pound to thofe that did not. Major Behm now offered to charge himfelf with any difpatchcs we might truft to his care. This was an op- portunity not to be negleded; and accordingly Captain Gierke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of fending by him fome papers, relating to our voyage, to be delivered to our ambaflador at the Ruffian court. Our lirft intentions were to fend only a fmall journal of our proceedings; but afterwards, Captain Gierke being perfuaded that tlie whole account of our difcoveries might fafely be trufted to a perlon who had given luch Uriking proofs both of his public and private virtues; and confidering that we had a hazardous part of the voyage ftill to undertake, determined to fend, by him, the whole of the journal of our late Commander, with that part of his own, which completed the period from Capt. Cook's death, till our arrival at Kamptfcha'tka- together with the chart of all our du'coveries. Mr. Bayleyand myfeif thought it alfo proper to fend a general account of our proceedmgs to the board of longitude; by which precautions, if any misfortune had afterward bi'fallen us, the Admiralty would have been in pofleffion ' of 5IO -CAPTAIN COOK*S jof a complete biftory of the principal fa6ls of our voy» age. It was alio determined, that a fmall pacquet ihould be fent by an exprefs from Okotfk, which, the major faid, if he was fortunate enough in his palfage to that port* would reach Peterfburg by Dec. and that he himfelf (hould be there in Feb. or March. During the three following days, the major was en- tertained alternately in the two ftiips, in the bell manner we were able. On the 25th he took his leave, and was falutcd with 13 guns; and the lailors, at their own dcfire, gave him three cheers. The next morning Mr. Webber and myfelf, attended him a few milts up the Awatfka river, where we met the Ruffian prieft, his wife and children, who were waiting to tj^e the Jaitfarcwel of their commander. .. ':^' ixi':\iWfi> *■ a-' ->^ ^ >»ii It was hard to fay, whether the good prieft and his family, or ourfelves, were moft affedted on taking our leave of major Behm. Short as our acquaintance had been, his noble and difinterefted condudt had infpired us with the higheft eftecm for him; and we could not part with a perfon to whom we were under fuch obliga^ tions, and whom we had little profpcd of ever feeing again, without feeling the moft tender concern. The intriniic value of the private prefents we received from him, exclulive of the ftorcs which might be carried to a public account, muft have amounted, according to the current price of articles in that country, to upwards of 200I. But this generofity, extraordinary as it may appear in itfelf, was exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a ftep further, and confider him as fupportinga public charader, and maintaining the ho- nour of a great Sovereign, we (hall find a ft ill higher fubje(fl of admiration, in the juil and enlarged fent i- ments by which he wasaduated. The fervice in which you are employed, he would often fay, is for the general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives you s^right, not merely to the oftices of humanity, but to the privileges of ffllRD VOYAGE. $.it of citizens, iri whatever country 5'ou may be thrown^ I ain fure I am afting agreeably to the wiflies of my miftrefs, in affording you all the relief rn my power; and 1 cannot forget cither her charader, or my own honour, fo much, as $0 barter for the performance of a duty. At other times, he would tell us, that he was parti- cularly dcfi reus of fettingagood example to the Kampt- fchadales, who, he faid, were but juft emerging from a flate of barbarifm ; that they looked up to the Ruf- fians as their pattern in every things and that he had hopes they might, in future, look upon it as a duty in- cumbent upon them to affift flrangers to the utmoft of their power, and believe, that fuch was the univerfal pra(5tice of civilized nations. To all this muft be added, that, after having relieved, to the utmoft of hia abilities, all our prefent diftrelies, he fliewed himfelf no iefs mindful of our future wants ; and as he fuppofed ic more than probable we ftiould not difcover the paflage we were in fearch of, and therefore lliould return to Kamptfchatka in the fall of the year; he made Captain Clerke give him a Hft of what cordage and flour we fhould want, and promifed they fhould be fent from Okotfk, and wait our arrival. For the fame purpofe, he gave Capt. Clerke a paper, enjoining all the fubjeds of the Emprefs, whom we might happen to meet, to give us every afliftance in their power. On our firft arrival, we found the Ruffian hofpital, which is near the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the foldiers were, more or Iefs affedted by the fcurvy, and a great many in the lad ftage of that diforder. The reft of the Ruffian inhabitants were alfo in the fame condition ; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the ferjeant, by making too free with the fpirits we gave him, had brought on himfelf, in the courfe of a few days, fome of the moft alarming fymptoms of that malady. In this lamentable ftate. Captain Clerke put them all un- der the care of the furgeons, and ordered a fupply of four krout, and malt for wort-, to be furnilhed for ,^. their 494 Captain cooi:*s their ufe. It was aftoniOiing to obferve the alteratiart in the figur<"s of almoft every f>crlbn we met on our re-* tiurry from Bolcheretik ; and I was intofmed, by our forgeons, that they attributed their Iptedy recovery principally to the effects of the fweet wort. Alter feveral attempts to clear the Bay of Awatlkaj Captain Gierke finally left it on the i6th of June, ftecring to the N. N. E. We cannot follow him in all ihc tackings, and nautical circumftances that occurred, m his various attempts to go to the North, between the two continents : tiiey were obftrudcd by impene- trable ice. During their voyage they had fometimes an opportunity to hoift out their botits and fend them in purfuit of the fea-hories, which were in great num- bers on the pieces of ice that furrounded us. The people were more fuccei'sful than they had been before^ returning with three large ones, and a young one; befides killing and wounding feveral others. The gen- tlemen who went on this party were witneffes of feve- ral remarkable irtllances of parental affe^ron in thofe animals. On the approach of the boats towards the ice, they all took their cubs under their fins, and en- deavoured to efcape with them into the fea. Several^ whofe young were killed or wounded, and left floating on the furface, rofe again, and carried them down, fometimes as our people were going to take them up into the boats; and light be traced bearing them to a great diftance through the water, which was coloured with their blood : they were afterwards obferved bring- ing them, at times, above the furface^ as if for air, and again diving under it with a dreadful bellowing. The female, in particular, whofe young had been de- ftroyed, and taken into the boat, became fo enraged,- that Ilie attacked the cutter, and flruck her two tuiks through the bottom of it. Another remarkable circumflance that was obferved during this attempt to go to the North, was the ardic gull's difgufting mode of feeding, which has procured it the name of the parafite, and which, if the reader is aot already acquainted with it,, wUl find ia. the follow* ing manner THIRD VOYAGE. 5I3 This bird, which is fomewhat larger than the common gull, purlues the latter kind whenever it meets them ; the gull, after flying for fome time, with loud fcreams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its dung, which its purfuer immediately darts at, and catches before it falls into the fea. Captain Gierke was unable to proceed farther North than latitude 70 deg. 33 min. which was five leagues fliort of the point to wliich they had advanced laft fea- fon. At length, on the 21ft of July it was perceived, that one connedled, folid piece of ice, rendered fruitlefs every elfort to a nearer approach to the American con- tinent, and joining, as it was fuppofed, to it, they took a laft farewel to the North Eaft paflage to Old England ; determined, however, to explore the coaft of Afia, in order to fucceed, if poflible, to the North Weft. But in this attempt they were equally unfuccefsful ; tmd, on the 22d, the wind kept driving the loofe pieces of ice upon them in fuch quantities, that they were in manifeft danger of being blocked up by them. • > ^ In the morning of the 23d, the clear water, in which we continued to ftand to and fro, did not ex- ceed a mile and a half, and was every inftant lellcning. At length, after udng our utmoft endeavours to clear the loole ice, we were driven to the neccfTity of forcing a paiiage to the Southward, which, at half p-^ft leven, we accomplilhed, but not without fubjcding the fliip to fome very fevere (hocks. The Dil'covery was lefs iuccefsful. For, at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, Ihe became fo entangled by feveral large pieces, that her way was ftoppcd, and immediately dropping bodily to leeward, (he fell, broadlide foremoft, on the edge of a confiderable body of ice ; and having, at the lame tine, an open lea to windward, the furf caufed her to ftrike violently upon it. This mafs at length either lb far broke, or moved, as to fet them at liberty to mak« another trial to efcape ; but, unfor- tunately, before the fhip gathered way enough to be under command, flie again fell to leeward on another •22 T t t fragment; 514 CAPTAIN COOK S 1 raiment; and the fwell making it unfafe to lie to windvard, and finding no chance of getting cltar, they puihed into a fnnall opening, furled their fails, and made fail with ic«- hooks. In this dapgerous fituation we faw them at noon, about three miles from us, bearing N. W. a frefli gale from the S. E. driving more ice to the N. W. and in- crcafing the body that lay between us. Our lat. by account, was 69 deg. 8 min. tlie long. 187 deg. and the depth of wafer 28 fathoms. To add to the gloomy appreienfions which began to force themfclves on us, at half pall four in the afternoon, the weather becom- ing thick and hazy, we loft fight of the Difcovery j but thcit we might be in a fituation to afford her every afTift- auce m our power, we kept ftanding in clofc by the edge of I he ice. At fix, the wind happily coming round to the North, gave us loiiie hopes, that the ice might drift away and reieafe her ; and in that cafe, it was uncer- tain in what condition (he might come out, we kept filing a gun every half hour, in order to prevent a fepa- ration. Our apprchenlions for her fafcty did not ceafe till nine, when we heard her guns in anfwer to ours; and ibon after, being hailed by her, were informed, that upon change of the wind the ice began to fepa- ratej and that, fetting all their fails,, they forced a palTage through it. We learned farther, that whilft they were encompalTed by it, they found the fhip drift,, with the main body to the N. E. at the rate of half a mile an hour.. We were forry to find, that the Difcovery had rubbed off a great deal of her (heathing from the bows, and was become very leaky, from the ftrokes the had received when (he fi:ll upon the edge of the ice. On the 27th, the damages which the Difcovery had received were found to be of fuch a nature as would ire- c]uire three weeks to repair,, and render it neceffary to retire into fome port, for that purpofe. Thus, find- ing a farther advance to the Northward, as well as a nearer approach to either continent, obflrufted by a • 1 ' . . ■ ^ ■ ■ ■ ^' ; ■ ■-• ■ '-V ;. ■■', ■ 4i»tt f t;.l,. 4yi i .' ,^ ' f ■ t..r. \ »Tt \ \ 1 f r: • . THIRD VOYAGB. 515 fea blocked up with ice, we judge<^i it both injurious to the fervice, by endangering the latety of the ihips, as well as fruitlels, with relpeCl to the dciign ut our voyage, to make any further attempts towards a pal- fage. :/, r; ^ ^ • This therefore, added to the reprefentation of Cap- tain Gore, determined Captain Gierke not to lole mure time in what he concluded to bean unattainable object, but to fail for Aw.uika Bay, to repair our damages there J and before the winter (hould let in, and render all other efforts towards difcovery impradicabie at tnis time, to explore the coaft of Japan. I wiU not endeavour to conceal the joy that bright ■ ened the countenance of every individual, as foon as Captain Gierke's relolutions were made known. We were all heaftily fickoi'a navigation full of d;inger, and in which the utmoft perf^'verance had not been repaid with the faialleft luccefs. We therefore turned our faces towards home, after an abfence oi tlirce years, with a delight and fatisfadion, which, notwiihttajidmg the tedious voyage we had (lill to make, and the lai- menfe diAance we had to run, were as freely entertain- ed, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had been already in fight of the Land's-end. _ -;lu Return to Kamptfcatka—^Death of Captain Gierke — An account Qf his Jerv ices — Anchor in the harbour of 6V. Peter and St. Paul — Funeral of Captain Gierke — Departure from Azv.atjka Bay — Captain King fent to Canton — Arrival at the Gape of Good Hope — At the Orkneys; and at the Nore — Concluding -.cfletUons. < ^^i^ HAVING taken a final leave of the N. E. coaft of Alia, they arrived, on the 2iil of Auguft^ 17/9, within fight of the coaft of Kamptfchatka. On the 22d, at nme in the morning, departed tins hiQ^m Ci^ptain Charles Gierke, in the ^Sth year of hi5 jga* ^1 died of a cponfumption, which had. evidcnily c m- T 1 1 a menccd ■>.•:! >, il I ' 'li< ^V 516 CAPTAIN COOJc'b menced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay had long made him a melancholy objed to his friends; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, the conrtant flow of good fpirits, which continued to the laft hour, and a cheerful refignation to his fate, aftbrd- ed them fome confolation. It was impoffible not to feel a more than common degree of compaflion for a ])erfon, whofe life had been a continued fcenc of thole difliculties and hardfliips, to which a Icaman's occu- pation is fubjed, and under which he at laft funk. He was brought up to the navy from his carlieft youth, and had been in feveral adlions during the war begun in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where being (lationed in the mizcn-top, . lie was carried overboard with the maft, but was taktMi up without having received any hurt. He was mid- Ihipman in the Dolphin, commanded by Commodore ^yron, on her firft voyage round the world, and attci- wards ferved on the. American ftatiort."^'-^ iRdi ninoy In 1768, he made his fecond voyage round tic world, in the Endeavour, as mailer's mate, and by the promotion which took place durlnp the expedi- tion, he returned a lieutenant. Hi? rTird voyage round the world was in the Refolution, of which he was appointed the fecond lieutenant ; and foon after his return, in 1775, he was promoted to the rank ot iiiafter and commander. When the prelent expediiioa was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to ib.c Difcovery, to accompany Captain Cook ; and by ihc death of the latter, fucceeded, as has been ah-eacly mentioned, to the chief command.'"'"'^''^^'-^'' ■^' '-^ '-•^-'^' It would be doing his memory extreme injulVico not to fay, that during the fhort time the expedition was under his diredion, he was moft zealous and anxious for its iucceis. His health, about the time the principal command devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequftt to en- couiiier the rigours of a high Northern elhriale^.; Bui- the vigour and a^ivity of his mind had, in no ftapev , -ftjHerecl THIRD VOYAGE. 5'7 fuffercd by his body : and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that remained ior his recovery, yet, careful and jealous to the laft degree, that a rcg\rd to his own fituation (hould never bias his judgment to the prejudice of the fervice, he perfevcrcd m the Icarcli of apaflage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both Ihips, that it was impradVicable, and that any further attempts would not only be fruitlcfs, but dan- gsro'.is. • • • ' Oi> the 24th, the Refolution entered the harbour of St. I'eter and St. Paul, with ihw enfign lialF ftaff up, on accouni of their carrying the body ot their late Cap- tain. The Difcovery followed foon after. We had no fooner anchored, than our old friend, the ferjeant, who was ftill the Commander of the place, came on board with a prefent of berries, intended for our poor deceafcd captain. He was extremely ailcdcd when we told him of his death, and flicwed him the coffin that contained his body. And as it was Captain Clcrke's particular r^queft to be buried on fhore, and, ifpoffible, in the church of Paratounta, we took the prefent opportunity of explaining tliis matter to the ierjeant, and confulting with him about the proper Heps to be taken on the occafion. Jn the couri'e ot our • converlation, which, for want of an interpreter, was carried on but imperfedly, we learned that Profelfor de rifle, and feveral Ruffian gentlemen, who died here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks, at the Oftrog of St. Peter and St. Paul's; and that iliis place would be preferable to Paratounca, as the churcli was to be removed thither the next year. It was there- .. lore determined, that we fliould v air lor the arrival of the Pried of Paratounca, whom the ferjeant adviled us i ii to fend for, as the only perfon that could latisfy our ;;i) inquiries on this fubjeft. ,' ■-•.:'■ .......... .' L',"^ In the morning of the 23th, Captain Gore n.ade out the new commiffions, in conrcc]U':nce of Captain Gierke's death -, appointing himl'elf to the command 01 the. Refolutipn^ and me to the command of the Dil- ■J^...^:^.i covery, 5lS CAPTAIN CaOK's covcry. The fame day we wer. vifited by the Pope Romanoff Vaefliager, the worthy Prieft of Paratounca. He expreiied his forrow at the death of Captain Gierke, in a manner that did honour to his feelings, and con- firnied the account given by the ferjeant refpeding the intended rennoTal of the church to the harbour ; add-' iog, that the timber was aflualiy preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to Captain Gore. In the afternoon of the 29th, the lail offices were paid to Captain Gierke. The officer? and men of both ibips walked in proceffion to the g'^ave, whilft the ihips fired minute-guns ; and the fervice being ended, the marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree, which flands on a rifing ground, in the valley to the North fide of the harbour, where the hofpital and lldre-houies ^rc fiiuated ; Captain Gore having judged this iituatton moil agreeable to the lait wifhes of the dcccaied, for the realons above-mentioned ; and the Prieft of Paratounca having {winted out a fpot for his grave,, which, he laid, would be as near as he could guefs,' in the center of the new church. This reverend Paftor walked in the proceffion, along with the gentle- man whoreskd the fervice ; and all the Ruffians in the garrifon were affembled, and attended with great jre-, ipea and folemnity. "^''' " On the 30th of September, Captain Gore went to Paratounca, to pi^t up in the church there an efcut-' tlffion, prepared by Mr. Webber, with an infcription upon it, letting forth Ciptaia Gierke's age and rank, and the ol^geft of the expedition in which he was eii-" gaged at the time of his deceafe. A boards with an inlcrq>tion u-pon it to the fanie effeft, was alfo affixed, totlic tree under which be wtis buried. It is here proper to obfet ve, that frotn the 24th of Auguft when the Ihips firlt entered the harbour of St.^ Peter And St. Paul, to the 19th of Odober, when they finally cleared Awaflka Bay, was employed in thc-,^ neceitary repairs of both Ihi-p?, in the procuring of ^ proper fuppJy ofprovifions and naval ilores, and occa- fi(;^na% THIRD VOYAOS. 519 fionally in various amufements on fliore, and the reci- procal exchange of civilities between the Captains of the two fljips, and the new commander of Bolchcretik. Before we proceed on the voyage, it mu(t be farther noticed that the inftrudtions from the Board of Admi- ralty having left a difcretionary power with the com- manding officer of the expedition, in cafe of failure in fearch of a paflagc from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England by whatever route he (hould think bed for the farther improvement of Geo- graphy ; Captain Gore demanded of the principal offi- cers their fentiments, in writing, refpedting the man- ner in which thefe orders might mod effcdually be obeyed. The refult of their opinions, which he had the latisfadion to find unanimous, and entirely coin- ciding with his own, was, that the condition of the fliips, as well as of the fails and cordage, made it unfitfe to attempt, at fo advanced a feafoh of the year, to navigate the fca between Jsipan and Afia ; which would otherwife have afforded the largett field for difcovery v that it was therefore advileai)le to keep to the Eaftwatrcl, of that iflund, and in the way thither to run along the' Kuriles, and examine more parricuiarly the iflands thtit lie nearell the northern coatl of Japan, which are repre- ' fented as of a confjJerahle fizc, and independent of the ; Ruffian and Japanele governments. If fo fortunate as to find in thcle any fafe and commodious harbours, it was conceived they might be of importance, erther as i places of (lieher tor any future navigators, who may be s employed in exploring the feas, or as the means of ' of>ening a commercial intercouife among the neighbour- -' ing dominions of the two empires. The next ohjc(^l v, was to fuivey the coafl of the Japanele illands, and" afterwards to make the coall of China as far to the^' Northward as poflible, and to run along it to Macao. This plan being adopted. Captain King received '^v orders from Captain Gore, in cafe of lepamtion, t&-^\ proceed to Macao ; and at fix o'clock in the evening of: ; the 9th of October, as before obferved, having cleared .-n 21 ,a>oo rini- VQP 520 CAPTAIN COOK S the entrahce of Awatfka Bay, they fleered to the South, along the coaft of Kamptfchatka. On the 1 2th they came in fight of Cape Lopatka, the Southermoft extremity Kamptfchatka, lying in lat. 51 deg. long. 156 dcg. 45 min. At the fame time, they faw the tirft of the Kuriie Iflands, called Shoomafka, and, on the 13th, the fecond, named Paramoufir, which is the largcft of the Kuriles under the dominions of the Ruffians. Oa the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing fteadily andfreQi from the Weftward, they were obliged to (land to the Southward, and con- fequently prevented from feeing any mOre of the Kuriie Idands. . ■« vvii.. i.\,i I, (,.(,.: This chain of iflands, running in a South Weft diredion, from the fouthern promontory of Kampt- fchatika to Japan, extending from lat. 51 deg. to 45 min. is called the Kuriles, from the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, whogavc their own name to thele iflands, on firll becoming acquainted with them. They are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in num- ber, without reckoning the very fmall ones. The Northernmoft, called Shoomafka, is- not more than three leagues from the promontory of Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of natives and Kamptfcha- dales. The next to the South, called Paramoufir, is inhabited by the true natives ; their anceftors, accord- ing to a tradition among them, having come from an ifland a little farther to the South, called Onecutan. Tbofe two iflands were firll vifited bv the Ruffians in 1713, and at the fame time brought under their dominion. The others in order, arc at prefent made tributary down to Oollicdiecr, inclulive, as Mr. King was informed by the worthy paftor of Paratounca, who is their miflionary, and vilits them once in three years, and fpeaks of the iflanders in tenuis of the higheft com- mendation, reprelenting them as a friendly, hofpilable, generous, liumane race of people, and excelling their Kamptfchadaie neighbours, not lefs in the formation of their bodies, than in docility and quicknefs of un- derfianding. Though Oofliefheer is the fouthernmod ifbcii »* -' THIRD VOYA«« 5*1 'ifland that the Ruffians have yet brought under their dominions, yet they trade to Ooroop, which is the eighteenth ; and where there is a good harbour for fliips of burthen. Beyond this, to the South, lies Nadecgf- da, which was reprefented by the Ruffians, as inhabit- ed by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like thofe of Ooroop, live in a ftate ot entire independence. In the fame direftion, but inclining fomewhat more to the Wcftward, lie a group of iflands which the Ja- panefe call Jefo, a name which they alfo give to the -whole chain of iflands between Kamptfchatka and Japan. The fouthernmoft, called Matmai, hath been long fubje(5l to the Japanefe, and is formed and garrifoned on the fide towards the continent. The two iflands to the N. E. of Matn.ai, Kunachir, and Zellany, and likcwife the three ftill farther to the N. E. called the Three Sifters, are perfedtiy independent. . if? / -! nm '? From this account of the Kurile -Iflunds, it was a great mortification to our navigators, to find them- (elves obliged, on the 24th, to give up all farther thoughts of difcovery to the North of Japan ^ the wind for fome days paft ha\'ing continued quite unfavourable to their views. Captain King, however, has enriched his account of this part of their tranra(5tions, with fevertil obfervations on the errors of former geographers. In confequence of this difappointment. Captain Gore fhaped his courfc Weft South Weft for the North part of Japan. At day-break, on the 26th, they had the plealUre of feeing high land to the Weftvvard, which proved to be that ifland ; along the Eaft coaft of which they run, (experiencing fome unexpected effeds of the currents) till tlie 2d of November, when the threaten- ing appearances -of a fudden and fevere gale made it prudent to leave the (bore, and ftand off to the Eaft- ward, to prevent being entangled with the land. Nor were wc wrong in our prognofticationsj for it ibon after* wards began, and continued till the next day to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and rainy wea* thcr. 'Mvitxhuot 'u'i ' * ./« /. / 1 *«-' U J. ,-(/.,() >tbi: U U III ";i*- 51i CAPTAIN COOiC S in the morning of the third, we found ourfelves. .by our reckonings upwards of fifty leagues from the Jaad, which circumftance, together with the very ex- Jlraordinary effed: of currents before mentioned, the late feafon of the year, the unledled ftate of tlie weather, and tl>e little likelihood of any change for the better, made Captain Gore refolve to leave Japan alto- gether, and profecute our voyage to China., hoping, that as the track he meant to purfue had never yet been explored, he Iliould be able to make amends by ibmc new difcoveiy, for the difappointjnents we had met with on this coaft. onq -ji-Hun > urs; wl«rc we know, from the be ft authorities, that the ;averfion of the inhabitants to uny inteicourle with flrangers, ha,s led them to commit the mod atrocious barbarities, that our fliips were in a leaky condition; that our fails were worn out, and unable to withstand a gale of wind; and that the rigging was fo rotten as to require conftant and perpetual repairs- j.mii. -^ u jk. ■ On the 14th, they difcove red an inland, about five miles long, lying in lat. 24dcg. 48 min. long. 141 deg, 12 min. On the South point ol this is a high barren hiil, which evidently prefented a volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or fand (for it was not eaiy to duJn-guilh of which its- furl'ace is composed) exhibited various colours i and a confiderable part was conjedtured to be iuljjhuf, bo-th from its apfx^arance to the eje, arKl the ftrong rulpbureous fmell^ perceived as the}^ aporoa-ched the point i and fome thought they l^iw iiean s lihng /rom the top of the hilL From thele* circuGnltanceG Captain Gore gave it the name of Sulphur Uland.^^^TAvo other iilands were llkewife liilcovered ; the one to the *\\ sod the other to the S. of Sulphur Ifland, .Jji./iii.'' , *u/Ju.u: ' ■ Captain •>' i-' iJ '-^ ;':. w THIRD VOYAG*. 5^3 - Captain Gore now fteered his courfe for the Bafhee I (lands. Thele they miffed, and on the 28th, paffed the ifland of Prata. On the SOth, they ran along the Lema llles, of which they had the fame view as reprefented m a phUe of Lord Anfon's voy- age. They alfn paffed the rock nr irked R, in Lord Anfon*s plate ; but inftead of hauling ap to the Northward of the Grand Ladrone Ifland > as was done by the Centurion, they proceeded to ieeward> a courfe againft which Captain King has cautioned the mariners. Two Chincfc pilots were now taken on board the Refolution ; and they finally anchored in the Typa, near the road of Macao, on the 2d of De- cember. Here we received the firft inteliigence of ihe war. Hence on the ilth. Captain King took paffage, not without many previous difficulties, to Canton, in order to expedite a fupply of naval ftores tor the thips. • Although he arrived here on the 1 Sth, various delays [jrevented the accompliflimcnt of this bufmefstitl the 26th. ui*i'- i.; v^jun-'^- "-• <-'<3*-^"^ On the 27t}i he left Canton, and took a paffage down the river "J ygris to Macao, where he arrived the next day. lielides a handfome prefent of tea> which Caj)tarn King received from the Englifli fu- percargoes at Canton, he mentions as a valuable accfuifition, a large collection, of our periodical publications, wliich both fcrvcd to amufe their im- patience during their tedious voyage home, and' enabled them to return no total ftrangers to what hadlieen tranfa6ting in their native country, '^^'i'*'. *'* . While the llijps lay in the Typa, Captain King^ was Ihewn, in a garden belonging to an Englith gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the poet Camt)ens ufed to fit and compofc his Lufiad. It is a loft)^ arch ot one folid ftone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the rifing ground behind it. The rock in overfhadowed by large fpreading trees, and com- ....... .w^ ^ ^ ^ mand.* ;..: } U u u 2 .i^; 1 i t 4i ^IJ^ CAPTAIN COaiC S mands an extenfive and magnificent view df the lea, and the interfperfed iflands. Captain Gore, previous to his departure from Macao, put both the (hips in a very refpeftable ftate ef defence, but having received undoubted intelli- gence, that orders had been iffiied by the French court, and alfo by the American Congrefs to all their eommanders, not to moleft the (hipfr- that failed under Captain Cook, he thought himfslf bound, in return, to obferve an exa6t neutrality during the re- mainder of the voyage. On the 13th "of January, ITBOj Captain Gore left the Typa, and on the i6th, paffed the illand of Sapata. On the 20th, they anchored in an harbour on the S. W. end of the illand Condore, ih order t: procure a fupply of wood and provifions. Here i». was found advifeable that a party fliould go in thoboat and lanid^ While feme of the men remained with Captain Gore, in the boat, Captaiii Kin^g and an armed party proceeded through the woods till they vcame near two huts. On approaching the ra'i they iwere defcried by two men,, who immediately ran aWay, notwithftanding all the peaceable and fuppli- catirtg geftures that could be devifed. * ^^- '^n-^'X Ori reaching the huts, I ordered the party tCJ fey without, left the light of fo rrtany armed men lliould terrify the inhabitants, whilft I entered, and recon- noitred alone. I found in one of the huts an elderly man,, who was in a great fright, and preparing to make off with the moil valuable of his effeas that he ' could carry.. However, 1 w6s fortunate enough, in a very little time, fo entirely to difpel his fears, that 'be came out,, and called to the two men who were '' running away to return. The old man and I foon came to a perfect underftanding. A few figjis, par- ^ticularly that moft fignificant of holding out a hand- 'ful of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffa- -loes, and the fowls that were running about the huts '^in great numbers, left him without any doubts a« to ^ the real obje6ts of my vifit. He pointed towards a - . place TWIRD- VOYAGE. S^S place where the town flood, and made me compre- fiend, that by going thither, all my wants would be Aipplied. By this time the young men, who had fled, were returned, and the old man ordered one of them to condu£l me to the town^ as foon as an ©bftacle fhould be removed, of which we were not aware. On our firft coming out of the wood, a herd of buffaloes, to the number of twenty at leafl> came running towards us, tofTmg up their heads> fiiuifing the air,, anji roaring in a hideous manner. They had followed us to the huts, and flood drawn up in a body, at a little diflance; and the old man made us underfland, that it would be exceeding dangerous forusta move, till they were driven into- the woods j but fo enraged were the animals grown at the fight of us, that tni$ was not effefted without a great deal of time and difficulty. The men, not being able to accomplifli it, we were furprifed to fee thjimi call te their airiilance a few little boys, who fo©n drove tliem out of fight. Afterward we had occafion to obferve, that m ■ driving thefe animals, and fccuring them, which is: done by putting a rope through a hole which is- made in their noftrils, little boys were always em- ploj-cd, who could flroke and handle them with im- punity,, at times wiien the men durfl not approach rits Our vlfit to the town ended in the purchafe of a number of buffaloes. Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both fhips were fent to the town, to fetch the buffaloes we had purchafed; but they were obliged to wait till it was high water, as . ^ey could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at the • village, they found the furf breaking on the beach i with, fuch force, that it was with the utmoll ditHcul- by each launch brought a buffaloe on board in the cvening^; and the officers, who were fent on thii» fervice, gave it as their opinion, that between the ▼iiokace of the furf, and the^ fietcenef? of thq buffa- )&iq . ~ loeSv 526 CAPTAIN COOK''sf lo€S, it would be extremely imprudent to attempt brinofing any more off in this way. Wc had pur- chafed eight, and were now at a lofs in what manuer to proceed to get them on board. We could kill no more than what was juft necelTary for the confump- tion of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the next. At laft it w2ls concluded, that the re- maiuder fhouJd be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay,, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being fliel-. tered from the wind, was more free from furf. This plan was accordingly put in execution ; but the un- tractable and prodigious, ftrength of the buffaloes^, rendered it a tedious: and difficult operation. The method of condu6ting^ them was, by pailing; ropes through their noftrils, and round their horns ; but having been once enraged at the fight of our men, they became fa furious, that they fometimes broke^the trees to v^hich we were often under the neceffi ty of tyin^^ them ; fometimes they tore afunder. the cartilage ot the nollril, through which the rapes ran,: and got loofe.^,^.^-,! >rroiif*, tn foH-».oa. - '»^ On thefe occalioiis, all the exertions of our meri/^ to recover tbem would have been ineffectual, without the alliftance of Ic-ine young- boys, whom thefe animals would penxit to approach them, and by w^hofe little managements their rage was foon tippcafed. And when at length they w-ere got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in tvvifting ropes round their legSy in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to get them into the boats, uiu 'rf. In the courfe of f our voyage, the R-efolution loft but five men by fick- |, nefs, three of whom were in a precarious ftate of ,; health at our departure from England; the Difcove- .,f. ry did not Jofe a man. An unremitting attention to j 4.he regulations eftabliflied by Captain Cook, with ,5^ Mhich the world is already acquainted, may be jnftjy j^ cojlfideted as the principal caufe^ under the bieliing '' ^ 5*8 CAPTAIN C00K'« of divine providence, of this fmgular fuccefs. But the baneful efFe£^s of fait provifions might perhaps, in the end, h^ve been felt, notwithftanding thcfc falutary precautions, if we had not aflifted them, by availing ourfelves of every fubftitute our (ituation at various times afforded. Thefe frequently confiding of articles, which our peouie had not been ufed to confider as food for men, and beiu^ fometimes ex- -ceedingly naufeous, it required the joint aid <3f per- fuafion, authority, and example, to conquer their prejudices and difgufts. ^ >, rr The preventives we principally relied on, were four krout and portable foup. As to the antifcor- butic reme^lics, with which we were amply fupplied, we had no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did not appear the dighteft fymptoms of the fcurvy, in either fliip, during the whole voyage. Our malt and hops ha^' n^f r. ^ -^K'a /»/.<, THIRD VOYAGE. 5^9 *.' Another circninft^nce attending this voyage, which If wc canfukr its duration, and the nature of the fer- vice in 'A/hich we were engaged, will appear (carccly lels lingular than the extraordinary healthinel's of the crews, was, that the two Ihips never lofl: light of each other for a day together, except twice; which was owing, the fird time, to an accident that happened to the Difco- vcry off the coaft of Ovvhyhee; and the fecond, to the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatfka Bay. A flronger proof cannot be given of the fkiil and vigilance of our lubaltern officers, to whom this lliare of merit alaioll intirely belongs. ,b;?J*v^ ji;> i^o«'**«l o:- ,;ff ■■.n:,: ■.ui- APPENDIX. :'"'iii :'•;'•■ As many very important improvements have been made, both in the population and cultivation of the fettlements at Fort Jackfon and Norfolk Ifland, fince Captain Cook difcovered thole iflands, we have, in this edition, annexed to the accounts of the formation, &c. of thofe fettlements, an authentic narrative of their progrefs, and very improved ftate, according to the •molt recent information. . , > . Commencement and Progrefs of the Operations for forming a Cslony^ interfperfed zvith incidenlal Occurrences. IN the year 17S6, government having formed a de- fign of removing many difagreeable circumflances, to which this country was expoled from the gaols in the different parts being crowded with criminals fen- tenced to tranfportation ; the Eaflern coaft of New Holland was fixed upon as the mod eligible part of the' globe for planting a new colony, to carry into eSect this neceliary purpofe. Captain Cook, in the narrative of his firll: voyage round the world, had mentioned Botany Bay as a fpot conveniently lituated for forming anewfettlement ; it was therefore determined by govern- 23 ' X X X mcnt 530 APPPBNDIX. ment lo dire(5b their attention to that place for the ac- compliflimcnt of their plans. '• * ■ Accordingly a fleet, confiding of his Majefty's fliip Sirius, under the command of Arthur Philip, Efq. and the Supply armed tender, under the command of Lieu- tenant Ball, with tranfports, Aore-fhips, &c. failed for Botany Bay on the 13th of May, 1787, and anchor- ed in that bay on the 20th of January, 17S8, after a paiTage of thirty-fix weeks. The day after the arrival of the fleet. Governor Philip, accompanied by feveral officers, examined the fouth (horei but as Botany Bay, through want of water, and fome difadvantages of fituation, was not deemed ▼ery convenient for the purpofe, they proceeded to ex- plore the coaft to the northward, examining every cove, and making particular obfervations on the country. Amongft other places, they examihcfd ^n opening to .which Captain Cook had given the name of Poirt Jacfc- (orii tindf fuch was the fittiatioh of iht !iafbdur, toge- ther With other ad^htk^s apparent ^t fifft VKfW,- 'that a refolutioii was^ fdrrWtfd bf evacuatiirg Botiirty 'Biiy the enfuingmorn. noiJ£frnoJni 'hn.r i.rjmnuJijjno jI diod 3f.'/ Pbr^i Jfackfon te bhe of the fineft irtd>ioft'6:^f'enfive hiM^ioiiits irt'tfj^ univtrfei And at thefame time th« moft fecilrt?;' ' bef ng fafe fromr all t he wi ridi t hat- blow. ' ' It is di*v*ided'into a grttit number of coVe^; 1*0 Whfci. the Governor hats given different names. That on which the town is built,' IS called Sydney Cove. It is bne of the fmalleft in the harbdur, but the:«K>ft convenient, as (hips ot the greateft burden can^ith eafe go into it, and heave otJt clofe to the (bore. Trincomatec, ack- ddVvl^dged to be one ofthe beft harbours in the world, is by no means t6' lite compared to ifi In a word, Port Jadicfori wo^W afford foffitient andfafe anchorage for yi tffienaVies of Europe. DuH^g a run tip the harbour of abdtit four miles, in a wefterly dirediot, a luxuriant profpe<51t prefented itfelf Hon the (hores, covered with tree» to the water's tdge, amortg*'^hkh ftiany of the Indians wei^e frequently fcen, till the' ^et trrivtd at a fmall fr.ug cdv€ to the fouthwai^, ioi* the :>;» y.ji' »v- :::;:;: .^■sJ: ,;!;;:•; s , ^u ;.;; ;viOt:v aaii^'> b^ks rej wel cu( faij the ■)u- APPENDIX. 531 banks of which the plan of operations were dcftincd to commrnce. The natives appeared In conliJcr.iblc numbers, from which it was rcafonable to conclude, that the country was more populous than had been reprefented by Captain Cook, who obferves, thit ihcy were few in number, dull of apprchenfion, and void of curiofity ; whereas, in fubfequent naruitive!., they are faid to be gay, fprightly and curious. They examined the ftrangers with the utmoft attention, and fccmed particularly ftruck with the appearance cf their arcfs, imagining their clothes to be conipofcd of (o many dif- ferent fkins, and the hat as making part of tlie head. Indeed, they fecmed highly entertained vvith their new acquaintsinc^, a,ccepted uf fome toys as prefents, and were perfi^^ly cheerful and pleafant, dancing and fmg- ing in concert with them^ and imitating thtir words n- '^V •K> '>H apd geflures* > vn/:r^ -rf* " vi:^; bn-J. :ln(0 .> ^ ^ ,■ , The following citcumAances, related by the author ;he narrative from which it h taken, are inferted in his Qytn wprds, as it is prefumed, they will conduce both to entertainment and information. :• !n;j , f ". When 1 went with a party to the South tide of tnc harbour, and had fcarcely landed fiv^ minutes, we were ^pet by a dozen Indians, nak^d as at the moment of tlieir birth, walking along the beach« Eager to come to a conference, and yet afraid of giving ofTence, we advanced with caution towards them: nor would they, at fir(l» approach nearer to us than the didance of fome paces. Both parties were armed ; yet an attack ieemed as unlikely on, their part as we knew it to be on our own. I had at this time a little boy, of not more than kvcn years of age in my hand. The child Teemed to attrad their attention very much,; for they frequently pointed to him, and fpoke to each, olher i and, as he was not frightened, i advanced with him towards them, at the fame time uncovering his bofom, ard (hewing the whitenefs of the (kin. On the clothes being removed, they gave aloud exclamation s and one of the party, an old man, with a long beard, bideoudy W&!y« came clofe to us. I bade the little boy not bi ^x% 1 afraid. 532 APPENDIX. afraid, and introduced him to the acquaintance of this uncouth perfonage. The Indian, with great gcntlerjcfsj laid his hand on the child's har, and afterwards felt his clothes muttering to hinifelf all tlie while. 1 found it neceffary, however, by this tinie, to fend away tlie child, as fuch a dole connexion rather alarmed him ; and in this the conclufion verified 1 gave no oticnce to the old gentleman. Indeed, it was j)utring ouif-lves on a par with them ; as I had obfcrvcd, from ihe lull, that fome youtlisof their own, though corjii.a:^rab!y older tlian the one with us, were kept back by the grown peo|)je. Several more came up, to whom we made various prcfento ; but our toys fccmed not to be regarded as very valuable* ; nor would luey, tor a I.ong time make any return^ (or them i thougli, before we parted, a large club, with a head almolt luiHcicnt to fell an ox, was obtained in exchange for a looking- ' giafs. Tiiefe people feemed at a lols to know (pro- bably from our waqt of beards) of Vv'hat fex wc were, which iiavine; underftood, ihcv burll into the moii immoderate fits pf laughter, talking to each of'aer, at the fame time, with fuch rapidity and vycifnalion,. as I had never before heard. After riC-arly an hour's con- verfation,' by figns and geftures, they repeated the word vjhmra feveral times, which fignifies be gone, and walk ed away from us to the head of the bay." The adventurers, in the late expedition, had feveral more interviews v/ith the natives, which ended in fo friendly a manner, that liopes werecnrertaincd of bung- ing about a conncdion with tlicm. The firfi objecl oi our people was to win their afkdion, and the next to convince them of our fuptriority. ' To this purpole an cfiicer one day prevailed on one of ihcm to place a target, ivjade o,f bark, againll a tree, which he iiied at witji a piilol^ at, the diftance of fomc paces. The ndlans, though terrified at the report : did not run n i nu'ay ; but their aRonilhnient exceeded I Ijeir alarm, o looking at the liiield wliids ll;c bail h.id perforated. As :hls produced a little ihyaef:^, th^e oflicer to chfijpale their fears, ond remove their jealoufy, whifilcd the air ' '"' • of y. s)<. APPENDIX. ^^^ of Marlhrouki with which they appeared highly charmed, and imitated liim with equal pleafurc and '.;adinefs. It has been remarked by the different navi- gators w'lo have explored thefe fouthern regions, that the natives of California, and throughout all the iflands of tl.e Pacific Ocean, and, in (liort, wherever they have been, ieemed equally touched and delighted with this little plaintive air. The necelTary previous bufinefs having been tranf- aflcd, upon an appointed day, the commiflions were read, and pofleffion was taken of the fcttlement in form. The marine battalion being drawn up, and the convids affembled on the occafion, his Majcfly's commiiTion was read, appointing his Excellency Arthur Fhilip, Efq. Governor and Captain General in and over the territory of New South Wales, and its de- pen(kncies ; together with the ads of parliament for eflabhlhing trials by law within the fame ; and the the j)atents, under the great Teal of Great Britain, for holding civil and criminal courts of judicature, by which all cafes of Hfe and death, as well as matters of property, were to be decided. The extent of this authority is defined in the gover- nor's commiffion, to reach irom the latitude of 43 deg. 49 min. North, to the latitude of 10 dcg. 37 min. South, being the Northen and Southern extremities of New Holland. It commences again on the 135th deg, of longitude Ea(f, and proceeding in an Eafteriy direc- tion, comprehends all iHinds within the limits of the above fpecified latitudes in the Pacific Ocean. As the difcovcrics ofEngliih navigators alone are compriled in this territory, it is prefumed this partition will obviate all caufe of future litigation between us and the Dutch. It af)pcars from the commifiion, conl'idcred in the whiolc, that government, have been no kCs attentive in armiag Mr. Philip with plcriitude of })OA'e;-, than extent of dominion. It was found neceffary to enforce the ri 'our of the law, m order to rellrain the violation of public fccuiity. A let of defpcratc and hardened milcrcanis leagued '- ' ' thcmiclves' m m it 53f APPENDIX. themfelves for the purpofes of depredation ; and, as is geoerally the cafe, had inlinuation enough to entice others, Icfs verfed in iniquity, to become irftrumentalv in carrying it on. if While the governor was exploring Broken Bay, which is contiguous to Port Jackfon, he faw a great nuniber of the natives. Ore of the females had formed an attachment to his great coat ; and to obtain it Hie ufed a variety of means. Firft, (h( danced and played a number of antic tricks, but finding this mode inef- fe&oai, (he had recourfe to tears, which fhe flied plen« tifully. This expedient not anfwering, Ihe ceafed from weeping, and appeared as chearful as any of the party around her. We have introduced this incident, to (liew they are ^ot a people devoid of art and Bneiie, in order to obtain their ends. . , * Though their women appeared with fuch few deco- raMPH^/ y^t it was evident they had no averfion ta fipery, wlCJ^ furgeon objerved, at a repaft, wherein he^vg^uped with the natives, one of the women who fa^^inf^lrjtiQf him, obtferying that he had a white hand^'i t^f^hief io hJ§ hand* exhibited a number of lafcivious airs, ,, in; order to obt^iin it. He therefore tore it into ribbons,, being defirojus of multiplying one prefent into many, with whicb he decorated her head and neck.. On her admiring the buttons of his coat, as he had no- thing clfe left, he cut them away, and t/d them round her waift. Thus ornamented, and charmed with her acquirements, (he turned away with a look of inex- pre^ible archnefs and joy, which feepied to fliew, that, like the women in the South St'is in general, they are fond of new ornaments, He alfo obfcrved, that there is np holpitality nor harmony atnif)iig them j as appear- cdTrom their eating lb greedily^ wUaout regarding the ac^'pmmodation oi any about them ; devouring the fiflvvoracioufly, which had been thrown on the fire^ and, fcarccly warm. - jiAi .bm:-^"! i-ii'.nu) ^M .qm/;: 10 Xhefe people, in their appetites, are Very ,v=oi^iou?, as appears from the following inftance. Orjujrof tiie of-»t ficers cm, whicli fliews the ftrength of their organical powers. Nor are they without ingenuity, aS' appeared from various figures oblerved by a party of our people on their ex«- curhon to the wcflward. Thefe figures' were cut on the fmooth furface of fome large Itones, and confiftt-d chiefly of reprelentations of themfcilves in different atti- tudes, of their canoes, ot leveral ibrts' of fiOi, and animals; and, coniidering the rudertefs of the inftru- nients with which the figures mu(t have been executed! they feemed to exhibit tolerable hktnelics. • -^ j- •.. i-^* li Tht nvtn, in general, are from five feet fix inchejl to five feet nine inches high: they are thin, but very ftrait, and well proportioned'; walk very erc<'t, and are extremely adive. The women atfo,^ in geircral, are well madfe, not fo thin as the men, bin rathei' ifnalle? limbed. Their fkin is of the col^iir of wood loot, or which would be called a dai'k chocolate colour. Their hair is black, but not wooMy : it iS'lhorfy but not cropt; in fome lank, in others curled. Same j-^rts of their' bodies are painted red; and the upper Hp and breads of fome of them are painted with ftreaks of white. Their features are far from difagreeabk ; and th«ir teeth evert and white. Theif voices are fo4t and tuneiible. It is* remarked, that the deficiency of one of" th* fore teeth of the upper jaw^ mentioned by Dampier, was lee n in almoft the whole of the men; but their Organs of fi^ht; fo far from being defeftive, as that' author mentior.s- thofe of the inl^bitants of the weftern fide' of the con- tinent to be, are remarkably quick and piercing. Many of the women wanted the two loweF joints of tlw little finger of the leit hand ; but tlie realon o; meaning of it could not be diicovfred at the time m whic-h the obfervation was made ; nor has any account of it been given (ince. I'he defc6t was not only apparent in old wometi, and in young girls of eight or nine ycais old»> 23 Y y y but ^38 APPENDIX. but in young women who had children, and thofe who had not ; the finger has been feen perfedt in individuals of all the above age and defcriptions. They have bracelets upon the upper part of their arms, made of plaited hair. They are fond of ornament, though abfolutely without apparel : and one of them, to whom was given an old fliirt, inftead of throwing it over any part of the body, tied it as a fillet round her head. Both fexes go Hark naked, and feem to have no more fenfe of indecency in difcovering their whole body, than the inhabitants of England have in difcovering their hands and face. Their principal ornament is the bone which they thruft through the cartilage that divides the noftrils from each other. What perverfion of tafte could induce them to think this a decoration, or what could prompt them, before they had worn it, or feen it worn, to fuffer the pain and inconvenience •that muft of neceffity attend it, is perhaps beyond the power of human fagacity t($ determine. As this bone is as thick as a man's finger, and between five and fix: inches long, it reaches quite acrofs the face, and lo effedually ftops up both the noftrih, that they are forced to k^ep their mouths wide open for breath, and fnuffle fo when they attempt to fpeak, that they are fcarcely intelligible even to each other. The feamen^. with fome humour, called it the fpritfail-yard ; and, indeed, it had fo ludicrous an appearance, that, till our people were ufed to it, they found it difficult to^ refrain frogj^ laughter. Befides the nofe-jewel, they have necklaces made of fliells, very peatly cut, and Urung together; bracelets; of fmall cord, wound two or three times about the upper part of their arm ; and a firing of plaited human hair, about as thick as a thread of yarn,, tied round the waift. Some of them have alfo' gorgets of fliells hanging round the neck, fo as to reach acrofs the breaft. u,i ;.; ; But though thefe people wear no clothes, their bodies have a covering befides the dirt ; for they paint them both white and red. The red is commonly laid ©n in broad patches upon the ihoulders and breaft j and the / •: ( , APPENDIX. , ., ,.,,, tf^tt the white (Iripes, fome narrow and fome broad : the narrow are drawn over the limbs, and the broad over the body, not without fome degree of tafte The white is alfo laid on in fmall patches upon the face, and drawn in a circle round each eye. The red ibemed to be ochre, but what the white was could not be difcovered : it was clofe grained, faponaceous to the touch, and heavy. Befides the paint with which they befixiear their bodies, they alfo ufe greafe, or fome ftinking oily fubftance, for the fame purpofe. Some of them ornament their hair with the teeth of fifli, faftened on by gum and the fkin of the kanguroo. The bodies of the men are much fcarified, particularly their breafts and Ihoulders. Thele fcarilications are confiderably raifed above the fkin ; and although they are not in any regular form, yet they are confidered as ornamental, ^m^urj-.. ,u ,m t.if-^i p fjjii : • <*-■ Upon their bodies were feen no marks of difeafe or fores, but large fears, in irregular lines, which appeared to be the remains of wounds they had infiided upon themfelves with fome blunt inftrument, and which our people underflood, by figns, to have been memorials of grief for the dead. Upon fuch ornaments as they had, they fcemed to fet fo great a value, that they would never part with the leaft article for any thing that could be offered ; which was the more extraordinary, as the European beads and ribbons were ornaments of the fame kind, but of better form, and more fliowy materials. '"^'-^ ■•*^^'' 5 Though both fexes, and thofe of all ages, are inva- riably found naked, it muft not be inferred from this^ that cullom fo inures them to the chantrc of the ele- ments, as to make them bear, with indifference, the extremes of heat and cold ; for they give vifiblc and repeated proofs, that the latter affeds them fevcrely, when they are ic&n iliivering and huddling themfelves up in heaps in their huts, or the caverns of the rocks, until a tire can be kindled. Thefe people have no fixed habitation ; but repofc wherever they may be overtaken by nighty and to render Y y y 2 their I' 'Ji'V.- fituati.on as tolerable aspoflible, they make a fire,, which heating the rock all round lUeo), it b-^comes as warm as an oven, and they lit^ huddled together upon the graTs, whicli is firft puUcid and dried to ferve them as a couch. In this inftance may be obferved the kind- nefs of Providence in the prelcrvation of his creatures. The inhabitants of thcle remote regipns have not the le.ifi notion .of ercdling an edifice,, or conftru^ting any kind of flicker hom the inclemency of the teafons i lo far from if, they have not even dcvifed the means of cloatliin^ their naked bodies. To remedy thele effen- tial dcleds, it is to ordained by infinite wiidom, that the rocks on the fea-coal.1:, as well as tbofe in, the inte- rior parts of the country, are cpmpoftid of foft, crumb- ly, fandy flone ; the external parts, which are moft cxpofed to the rigour of the leafon, are generally of a .Jjarder texture than the internal, which are lefs expofed j lb that the latter gradually mouldering away ^under the preffure of the former, a cavity is made, of dimienfions I'utficient to pontain fifty or fixty of t,here poor forlorn creatures, who are thereby provided with a tolerably comfortable lodging. In fuch parts as are not very rocky, they build a kind of huts with pliable <"pds, not thicker than a finger, by bending them, and flicking the two ends in the ground. The covering is of palm leaves and pieces of bark ; and the entrance by a large hole, oppofite which the fire is inade. Thefe huts are defigned for the accommodation of fuch as follow the hunting of the kanguroo, opoffums, rats, fquirrels, and other animals which inhabit the woods, and which, when purfued, generally run into the hollow of a tr-ee. In order, therefore, to fe^ure the animal when found in the tree, a man climbs even the tailed tree with great cafe, by means of notches cut with a flone hatchdt in the trunk at convenient diftances ; when he reaches the fuinmit, or any part that may open away for the efcape of the animal, he fixes himlelf there with a'club in his hand, while another below applies a fire, which fills the hollow cf the tree with fji>okje;. fg that •"Mil- •UUH!'i..Ti'; '■■■.".!'. ■"(<■'' •-■';:. . . ;■ ,-, ,■ n .*U^ •m1}.- Mf . APPEinJlX. 54^ , Avhich Ls warm on the z them le kind- eat u res. not the ing any bns i io eans of le eflen- m, that :he inte- crumb- ire nioft iliy of a ixpofed i nder the miennons r forlorn tolerably not very ods, not flicking of palm a large huts are How the quirrelsj s, and illow of al when eft tree a flone hen he in away re witli a nre, fo thai the the animal attempting to cfcape, is almoft certain of falling a prey to its purfucrs. i>i!i The only furniture obferved belonging to thefe huts, that fell under obfervation, was a kind of oblong vcffel, made of bark, by the finiple contrivance of tying up the two ends with a withy, which, not being cut off, fervcs for a handle. Their chief utenfil was a fmall bag, about the lize of a moderate cabbage-net, which is made by laying threads loop v/ithin loop, fomewhat in the manner ufed by ladies to make purles. This bag the man carries Ic 'e upon his back, by a fmall firing, which pafftts ovf r his head. It generally contains a lump or two of paint or refin, Tome fi(h hooks and lines, a few points of darts, and their ufual ornaments, which in- clude all the worldly treafure of the richeft man among ItlClii. . . , , , j . . ■' 1 I r,f' 1 .if 'jii- iThey are utterly frrarigers to the cultivation of the ground, and appear to live chiefly upon what the (ea affords, as the colonifts found the coaft much more populous than the interior parts. They do not, in general, eat animal food raw, but having no veffel in which water can be boiled, they either broil it upon .:;thc coals, or bake it in a hole by the help of hot :itones. J Ti The men afe very dexterous in the ufe of the fi(h- gig, an inftrument upwards of three feet in length. Thefe gigs, have, fome one, fome two, fome three, and fome four prongs, pointed and barbed with a fifli or other animal's bone. In fine weather a man has often bee A obferved by the colonifts lying acrofs a canoe with his face in the water, and his fifli-gig immerfed, ready for darting. In this manner he lies ftill,, and is alnfioft certain of linking the fiQi, as his face being a little under the furface of the water, he can fee it dif- tindlly, and confequently rarely miffes his aim,. Women were frequently obferved occupied in this neceflary em- ployment of fiQiing with lines and hooks in edge of a larfthat would intimidate an experienced feaman. The \oungeft chikij if very fmi;!!, lies acrofs the lap of the mother. 5^^ /. i 'I V. IT] /• APP^N-DIX '. / ^. mother, and is fafe from falling, though flie is bufy in iidiing, as the boat being very iballovv, (lie fits in the botton^ with he-r knees up to her breaft, and between lier knees and her body the child is perfedly fecure. f>"; The men likewUe dive with amazing alacrity for'' fiiell fi(h, which adhere to the rocks: they fpring from Si rock into the furf, and there, continue for a long fpaceof time; and on their rifing, call the fi(h they liavc taken oft' the rocks on Qiore, which is received by ibme of their comrades, who are placed there for that' Jieceflary purpofe. I'heir canoes are mean and rude. Thofe on the foutherji part of the coaft are nothing more than a piece of bark, about twelve feet long, tied together at the ends, and kept open in the middle by fmaU boughs oi wood. Thofe farther to the northward are not made of bark,, but of the trunk of a tree, hollow-i cd, perhap?, .by /ire. They are about fourteen feef Jong; and being very narrow, are fitted with an out- r.iggcf, tp prevent their overl'et.ting. Thefe are worked with laddies, that are fo Jarge as to require both hands to manage one of them. -; • The' only tools feen among them were, an adze, wretchedly n:iade of ftone, fome ImaiJ pieces of the fame fubftance in form of a wedge, a wooden mallet, ' and fome (hells and fragments ofxoral. For poli fil- ing their throwing flicks and the points of their lances,-' they ufi the leaves of a kind of wild fig-tree, which bites upon wood aim oft as keenly as the (have-grafs of' Europe, which is ufed by onr joiners. Withfuch tools, 'ii the making even iuch a canoe as has been defcribed,-' ^ nrufl be a mod difficult and tedious labour. To thofc'^' v;ho liave been accuftomed to the ufe of metal, it ap-^^ }3ears altogether inipracflicabie J but there are few di(fi-ib culties that will not yield to patient perfeverance'j and'->5 Jicwho throvvino; the lance ; it iS about three {'rxt lonfr, flit ten- ed un one fide, wi(u a hook ot wood at oneenc!, and a flit fliell let i.ito a fplit in th.^ Hick at tlie other, ami faltended wirh gum. Upon the flat liclc of this Hick the h\ncc is laid. In the upper end is a fmall hole, ia which the point of the hook of the throwing-flick i* fixed ; this retains the lance on the flat fide of tiie ftick. Tucy poilc It, thus fixed in one hand, with the fore- finger and f ^.umb over ir, to prevent its falling off tide- ways; at the fanie time holding fail the throvving-llick, they diifcharge it with confiderable force, and in very good direction, to the diliance of about fixty or feven- ty yards, ft was fuppofed by feveral of the colonifls^ who faw thele weapons frequently thrown, that a mart upon his guard might with eafe either parry or avoid tliem; though they confefled they flew with aftanilh- ing velccitv^v> .ijj.i... yiw ,,*<:'iiL,. ;ij' --.... -..i . wv. ,. ii-iw Thife i pears, or knCes, however, are dY^adful wea- pons; for, when once they have taken place, tliey cani'^ neVwT be drawn back, without tearing away the flelh,, or leaving the fliarp ragged fplinters of the bon^, or Ihell, which forms the beard, behind them in the wound. They are thrown with great force and de:-;rte- rity. jf intended to wound at a fliort didance, between, ten and twenty yards, fimply with the hand ; but if at the diftance of forty or fifty yards, or more, with, the throwing-ftick. I'he colonifls were inclined to hold the fpears of the natives very cheap. Fatal expe- rience, however, convinced them, that the wound in-j!" liitfted by this weapon is not a trivial one; and that;- the fkill of the Indians in throwing it is far from being"'' delpicable. Nor are their weapons of ofiencc confined^i to the fpear only ; for they have belides long wocdeiv^ fwords, fhaped like a fabre, capable of infiicT:mga a^ov-d tal w(Mind ; and clubs of an immenfe fizc. .'" The natives, when equipped for- any exp^loit, are armed. witU a shield, made of the bark of a tree. vvitlv-i^> ::fy.lu:d : . whlch-'.' 'ill'' ^■ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I IZ8 |Z5 u, 1^ u. .,. I 2.2 :: m |2£ m 1^ 1'-^ i'-^ 4 6" ► •^ V] 6 pounds after the entrails are taken out. In the riv crs and fait creeks are alligators. A lliark of an enormous lize was found here, which meafured it the lliouldcrs iix feet and a half in circumference. His liver yielded 24 gallons of oil; and in his ftomach was found the licad of a fifli of the like fpecies. The Indians, probably from having felt the effects of their voracioiis fury, tcftify the utmoft horror on feeing thefe tirriblc filh. Of iiii'ccts, here is a very peculiar kind of ant, as green as a leaf. They live upon trees, where they build their nelts. Thefe nefts are of a very curious ftrudure : they are formed by bending down feveral of the leaves, each of which is as broad as a man's hand : they glue the points of them together, fo as to form a purfe. The vifcous ufed for this purpofc is an animal juice, which nature has enabled them to elaborate. Their method of firft bending down the leave:-; o'jr naturalifts had not an opportunity to obferve ; but they faw thoufands uniting all their ftrcngth to hold them in this polition, while other bufy APPENDIX. ^4p bufy multitudes were employed within, \n appivin^ the gluten that was to preveiU tlieir icturni!).^ baclv. 'I'o I'atibty themfelvcs that the leases \s\re bDU and held down by the elTorts of thefe diniioutivc artili- cers, our people dillurbed them in their work ; aiid_, as focn as they were driven Iroiii their Ihitii. :, tlic Jeaves, on which they were em})l())ed, Ipi.Jig iij) with a force much greater than they eouki have thought them able to conquer by an\ conibi nation of their (Irength. But though our people gratilied their curiolity at the expence oi thefe inkcls, tlio injury did not go unrevenged, for thoufands imme- diately threw themfelvcs upon them, and gave them intolerable pain with their flings, erpeeiall)' thofe wliich took puffclTjon of the deck and hair, troni whence they were not eafily driven. Inhere are upon the leaves of the mangrove great numbers of fmall green caterpillars ; their foreheads are thick fet u iih baiiS, and they range upon the leaves lide by lide, like a file of loldiers, to the number of twenty or thirty together; the hair of their bodies, on touch- ing them, has the quality of a nettle, and give a more acute, though lefs durable, pain. 'J his c(;im- try abounds with beautiful plants and flowers, and is therefore adapted to aflbrd great cntertainmciit to the curious in botany. There were found fomc wild fpinach, parflcy and forrel ; but not in any quantity. The climate is undoubtedly very defirable to live in. In fummer the heats are ufually moderated bv the fea breeze, which fets in early ; and in the winter the degree of cold is fo flight as to occaliou but little inconvenience. It is remarked, as a cir- cumftance peculiar to this country, that everv part of it, even the moil inacceilible and rocky, appears as if, at certain times of the year, it was all on i\rc. Indeed, in many parts large trees are fcen, tlic trunks and branches of which are evidently rent rjul dcmolilhed by lightning. The ground was fo \erv div » *• » • ■* ^^O APPENDIX. ," , . -; dry anc! parclicd, that poles or pegs could not be driven into it without confidcrablc difficulty. -?*■■• The governor, invariably intent on exploring the country, having formed a party, with unwearied induftry, and great toil, traverfed an extenfive track of ground, vvhieh appeared, from fuch obfcrvations as could be made, capable of producing every thing which a happy foil and genial climate can bring forth. The face of the country was fuch as to promile fuc- cefs, whenever it fliould be cultivated ; for the foil was found to be much richer than as defcribed by Captain Cook ; as, inftead of fand, they found a deep black mould, which feemed very fit for the production of grain of any kind. But fuch were the •labour and difficulty attending the clearing of the ground, that, incredible as it may appear, it is a known faft, that ten or twelve men have been em- ployed for five whole days in grubbing up a tree ; and when this has been effis^cd, the timber has only been fit for fire wood ; fo that, in confequence of the great labour in clearing the ground, and the weak ftate of the people, to which may be added the fcarcity of tools, mod of thofc brought from England being loft in the woods among the grafs, through the careleffiiefj of the convi£ts, the profpe6l of future fuccefs is not the moft promifmg, till they can fo far clear the ground, as to produce a fufficient fupport for the new fettlement : but, however, the richnefs of the foil will amply repay them, when they can furmount this difficulty. The timber is very unfit for the purpofe of build- ing ; the only purpofe for which it will anfwer is fire- wood, and tor that it is excellent : but in other re- fpe£ts it is the worft wood that any country or cli- mate can produce; although fome of the trees, when ftanding, appear fit for any ufe whatever, mafts for fliipping not excepted. Strange as it may be ima- gined, moft of the wood in this country, though dried ever fo well, will not floats Repeated trials have only ferved to prove, that, immediately on im- merfion. be APPENDIX. 551 merfion, it finks to the bottom like a fionc. The trees were not of many fpccics. Among others, there was a large one, wliich yielrlcd a gum not unlike that called dragon's blood. In the woods was found a tree, which bore fruit, that, in colour and iliape, refcmblcd a cherry : the juice had an agreeable tartnefs, though but little flavour. Between the trees the ground is covered with grafs, of which there is great abundance, growing in tufts as large as can well be grafped in the hand, which ftand very clofe to each other. In thofe places where trees are fcarce, a variety of flowering (lirubs abound, mofl: of them entirely new to an pAnopean, and fur- pafling, in beauty, fragrance, and number, all ever feen in an uncultivated Hate. Amon:^ thefc a tall ilirub, bearing an eL gant white flower, which fmells like Engliih may, is particularly delightful, and }..erfumes the air ar( und to a great diflance. There is a kind of \ iiie, running to a irreat extent alont; the groiMd ; the ftalk is not fo thick as the fmalleft honey-fiickle, nor is tlic ler.^i.- larf^j as the common bay ;caf, though fomevv-hat llmilar to it; and the tafle is fweet, exa6lly like the li(jUorice root of the ihops. Of this the convifcls and foldiers make an infuli(vi, which is toleraU'v plealaut, and ferves as no bad fucccu^.neum for tea. The furgeon found it to be a good pectoral, rind not at ail unpleafant. Free Itone, of an excellent quality, abounds in this country, which was conlidered as an happy cir- cumft:ance, as it tended fo matcriallv to forward the intended plan of forming the town. The greatefl: impediment to building was a want of lime flone, of which no figns had hitherto appeared. Clay, for making bricks, abounding, a coniiderable quantity of them were burned, and ready for ufe. In the month of March, 1788, the fcurvy prevail- ed amongfl: the fcamen, marines, and convicts, in a greater degree than when on board the fhips, which appeared rather extraordinary, after having been foji]e time on land, and obtaining the advantage of ^^ vegetable \\ \\ 532 . APPENDIX. vegetable procluiflions ; but this was attributed by tlic gentlemen of tlie tacuUy to the nccelTity ol continuing the lame t:\lt diet : however, excepting thele, and a few who were trcjubied with dyfcnterics, the people in general enjoyed a tolerable (late of health. About the middle of May a convalefcent, who had been lent from the holpital to gather vegetables, was killed by the natives. Soon after this acciilcnt a report prevailed that part of the bones of a man had been found near a fire, at which a party of the natives had been regaling thcmlelves. This report gave rife to a conjecture, that, as ihis man had been murdered near the fpot, thofe who committed the afl had devoured him. It cannot be pofitively affirmed, that the natives of this place are in general cannibals; but, from this ?ircumftancc, there is ground to fufpedt, that if the horrid cutlom of eating human flefli does not univer- lally prevail, it is fometimes pradifed : indeed, it was confirnicd by tlie reply of a native to one of the colo- nifts, who, intenogalin^ him on the fubjc(lV, he ac^ knowledgcd that one of their chiefs had eaten a man he had flain. «• vn* • irr. v ii\*^r) '<^rr - On the 27th of Auguft, the Supply tender arrived from Nortolk Jlland, whither (he had been difpatched by the governor with ftores and provifions fur the fet- tiement he had formed there : and in the month of Odlober the governor fent the Sirius to the Cape of Good Hope, to purchafe provifions for the accommo- dation of the fcttlcment ; whence Ihe returned, and anchored in Sydney Cove on the Sth of May, 1789. She had been abicnt 219 days, 51 of which flie lay in Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope ; fo that it is obferved by the officer who commanded the Sirius, that, although, duiing the voyage, they had fairly gone round the world, they had only been 168 days in de- Icribing that circle. ■ "'''^•■ In the beginning of February, 1788, Governor Philip fignified his intention of fendingLieutenant King, of the Sirius, with fome marines and convids, to form a fettlement on Norfolk liland. Accordingly, that offi- « »' ceFj, APPENDIX. $^i ccr, having received his commiflion, appointini^ him fuperintendant and commandant of Norfolk lilaud, embarked for that purpofe with twenty-three ])erfons on board tlie Supply tender, on the 15th. On the 29th of February they made Norfolk llland, at the dillancc of feven or eight leagues. Lieutenant King, on their ap{)roach, landed in the boat witli the com- mander ot the Supply, in queft of a place to call an- chor. Rowing along fliore, they obfcrved, towards the north-eall point of the ifland, a duller of high rocks, to wliich the cammander gave the name of Cook's Rocks, from that celebrated navigator's hav- ing difcovercd this ifland, and landed near thefc rocks, in 1774. After feveral fruitlefs attempts, they landed at length on the fide of a large rock, which lies clofe to the fliore, at the weft end of a fmall llony beach. This was imagined to be the rock on which Captain Cook landed, as there is no other place on that fide of the ifland where it could have been pra6ticable : But it was found an impro- per place to land cither the people or ftores, there being no frefli water near it. On the 4th of March the commandant, with his ofHcers, landed again, in order to take a view of the country; and, after afcending a very fteep hill, got to the top of the ifland, which they found to be a plain ; but every foot of ground was covered with trees, or large roots of trees, which not only ob- ftru£ted their paflage, but obliged them to cut their way through them. During this excuriion, they did not fee a leaf of flax, or any kind of herb: the ground, though the foil was both rich and deep, was entirely bare. This appeared very lingular, after Captain Cook liad obferved, that the ilax plant was rather more abundant' here than he had found it to be in New Zealand. Birds w^ere fcen in great num- ber and variety, fucli as pigeons, parrots, parro- qucts, doves, &c. They were fo remarkably tame, that they were knocked down with flicks. As large pieces of pumice-flone were difj^erfed in every part 24 4 A ut 554 APPENDIX. of the ifland, it was imagined that a crater, or thff remains of one, might be found at or near a moun- tain in the middle of the ifland ; which, in honour of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, was called Mount Pitt. At length a place, afierwartis called Anfon's Bay, having been explored, was found fit for land- ing. Here, therefore, the commandant was detcM- mmcd to fix ; and accordingly, on the Gth of March .left the Supply with two boats, in which were all the perfons belonging to the fettlement; together with the tents, a part of the provifions, and fome of the ufeful tools. Thcfe being landed,, they began clearing a fmall piece of ground to cTc6t the tents upon. The colours were noilled ; and, before fun- fet, every perfon and article belonging to the fcttlc- mcnt were on Ihore, and the tent;* pitched. Soon after Iftnding, they found a \try fine rivulet of water, which ran clofo at the back of^the grou»Kl where the fettlement was fixed. As there were only twelve Diei^y one of -wlipm "vi^as a man feventy-two year> oW, and another a boy of fifteen, exclufive of the nmte an^iurgeon, the progrefs of the fettle;T>cnt for fome tin>^ was very flow. ^,..f,,„C| .,,|t ,,„^ ,,|^,t,| f .j^lj On the 9th of March (behig Sunday) every pea- ion in the fettlement affembled in the governor's tent, where he performed divine fervice ; after which his commiflion from Governor Philip was read, appoint- ing Lieutenant King fuperintendant and command- ant of this ifland. The commaudant then afl'ured the people in general, that his intention was to for- wa,riJ» the King's fervice to the utmofl of his power: he endeavoured to imprefs on the minds of the con- victs his refolution, that thofe who were idle or diihoneft fliould meet with condign punifliment. He inforn^ed them what ratio of provifions would be allowed r daily ; and propofed every encouragenient to incite them to induftry and good behaviour. ,r, ^r. ,37 Ffom this time to the middle of the month, the people weie employed in clearing away, and turn- AfPP,NT>IX. ^^^ inc up the j;arilrn ^rountally 1 J' n for I t- three 1 .hich I I I'hey 1 v and 1 r :ines, 1 S; /€ak- 1 •Vi APPENDIX. 557 llie people received a fortunate fupply of fiHi on the 9th of May. Pigeons were very numerous on their firft landing, and fo tame lliat tliey wcvc knocked down with fticks ; but afterwards they harboured about the tops of the trees. Many were taken that weighed from three quarters to one pound each. On the 8th of December all the barley was houfed which had been raifed on an acre ot ground, and was fown in June and July. Diirin'^ its enrly growth it had a molt promiiing appearance ; but when the ear was Ihot, and nearly tiiled, fome heavy rains in September laid great part of it down, belides a great quantity that was deftroyed by rats and quails ; fo that, inftead of getting at the lealt fifty bufliels of grain, according, to expectation, tlie whole, when gleaned, yielded no more tlian tea bufliels. The barley, though fmail in quantity, was very fine, and 1 16 ears were produced from oye grain. Garden vegetables fucceeded very well, and cab- bages Vv'cre cut that w^eighed twenty pounds each. On the 22d fome wheat was reaped tliat had been fown on the eleventh of Auguit ; the grain was full and fine ; but the crop was not fo good as expected. Tif On the i25th of February, 1789, the new fcttle- ment fuftained a moft fevere lliock from a dreadful hurricane, attended with conftant deluges of rain. Pines and oak trees were town up by the roots ; and others, whole roots were too deep in the earth to be torn up, beni their tops nearly to the ground. To add to the horror of the fcene, a very large tree fell acrofs the granary, and dalhed it to pieces, having a number of Hour calks: but, by the aciivity of tiie people, the flour, Indian com, and ftore^T, were collected, and lodged in the commandant's houfe. The produ6fs of the gardens were nearly deib-oyed ; for, incredible as it may appear, the violence of the 'wnnd blew up cabbages, turnips, and other vcgc- jtables, by the roots; but happily the wind at length '- -■■ ,€. /nb fjfTuit- tt)t ^Itov/ OJ :)ldB r)d,:,t Ian a,T 5i8 APPENDIX. veered about, the ftorm fubfidcd, and fine weather fuc- ceeded this mod tremendous hurricane. ^nv M^ On the 7th of May, the wheat, which had before a very fine appearance, was blighted in many places by a fmall black caterpillar. Many methods were ufed to extirpate them, but without cftt bly krge fpr ihc fize of the ifland. Many of the hills are very Acep» and fome few fo very perpendiculat that they c$n/>ot be cultivated; but where I'uch (ituations are,, they will do very well for fuel : on the tops of the hills are fome very extenfive flats. ..a Mount Pitt is the only remarkable high hill in the ifland, and is about one hundred and fiay fathoni& hrgh. The cliffs which furround the ifland are about forty fathoms high, and perpendicular;, the bafts of the ifland is a hard firm clay. The whole ifland is covered with a thick wood, choaked up with a thick underwood. The air b remarkably falubrious ; as a proof of it, it is remarked by an officer belonging to the fettlement, that he never knew the conditutions either of the human race, or any other animal, more f)folific in any part of the world : two children at a birth is no uncommon thing; and elderly women, who have believed themfelves long pall the period of child bearing, have repeatedly had as fine healthy children a$ ever were fcen. There is not only a fine rivulet at the back K > AFPEKDIX. 5^9 back of tlic fcttlement, as before obferved, but many llreams of water large enough to turn a millj and all thefe dreams abound with fine ee^s. > ' /^ i ' The foil is in general good ; but, from the (ides of the cliffs which furround the coaft, to the fummit of Mount Pitt, it is excellent 5 varying from a rich brown mould to a light red earth. There are five kinds of trees on the ifland which arc good timber, viz. The pine, live oak, a yellow wood, a hard black wood, and a kind of beech. The pine trees are of a large fize, many of which are from one hundred and eighty to two hundred and twenty feet iu height, and from fix to nine feet in diameter. The timber of the pine is very ufeful in buildings, and is plentiful alortg the coafts. The live oak, yellow wood, black wood, and beech,, are all of a dole grain, and a durable wood.^'^«'^5 ^.i irua /n ji;.:.. .nif, o t«-T'';4 ff Sydney Bay, on the fouth (ide of the fland, is where the fettlement is made. Landing at this f^ace entirely depends on the wind and the weather. Some- times there is as good landing as in the Thames for a fortnight or three weeks together, at other tirtjes it is impradicable to land for ten or twelve days fucccffively; but it is pnuch ofrener good landing than bad. Anfon Bay is a fmall bay with a fund y beach, where landing irin general good with an oft" (bore wind and moderate weather. Ball Bay is on the fouth-caft fide of the ifland} the beach is- of large loofe ftone. When land- ing is bad in Sydney Bay it is very good here ; as it alio is in Cafcade Biy on the north fide of the iiland. >Uf 3d* ' The fpring is vifible in Auguft ; but the native trees, and many plants in the ifland, are in a conft^int ftate of flowering. Thefummer is warm, and fome- times the droughts ari6 very great. All the grain and Euroj^ean plants feedcd in December. From Fcibruary to Augufl may be called the rainy feafon: not that there are any flatcd times for fains in thefe months, as it is fometimes very fine weather for a fortnight to<»c- thtr ; but When the rain docs fall it is. in torrents -, bat • ^- - -• ' ^'-'i '• . -•-• .... . thunder ^ < ^^a APTENDI^. thunder is very rare. The winter is very pleafanf, and it never freezes. < ' ' ' The proper time for fovving wheat and barley is from May to Auguft, and is got in in December. That which was fowed produced twenty-five fold. Two buHiels of barley, lowed in 1789, produced twenty-four bufliels of a found full grain. The Indian corn produced well ; and it was the general opinion, the befl: grain to cultivate in any quantity, on account of the little trouble attending its growth and manufac- turing for eating. The Rio Janeiro fugar cane grows very well, and is thriving. Vines and oranges are very thriving j of the former there will be a great quantity in a few years. Potatoes thrive remarkably well, and yield a very great increafe. Two crops a year of that article may be got with great eafe. Every kind of garden vegetable thrives well, and comes to great perfedion. ,,^o,«.,t^....^-,.. ?..^r. ,. , u .-..! :..f^: i ,: In February, 1791, great improvemenb were car- rying on at Pore Jacklbn ; a confiderable town was laid out at Rofc Hill, a very pleafant fituationj many good buildings were erefled, and roads cut. Several acres of land were cleared for corn, and eighty acres for buildings and gardens. But the foil about Rofe Hill requires good farmers, and much manure, before plentiful crops can be expcded. From the fudden viciflitudes of cold and hear, this country may be fup- pofcd to be unhealthy; but four years experience have proved otherwife. . • in the beginning of May, the officers and men of the New South Wales corps went into the new barrack at Rofc Hill. Thofe natives who had been moft ac- cuflomed to live at the fetticment, would leave it tor fcveral davf together, as they found plenty of fi(h to- wards the he:id of the harbour. The buildings at Rofe Hill being tarried on fo far as to form a regular town between Rofe Hill and the landing-place in the creek, it was named by the governor Paramatta. In the courfe of this year a whale nlhcry was firfl: introduced on the ccaCl of I>^ew South Wales. In the 11^ oath APPPENDIX. 561 month of December feveral improvements Were made at Sydney Cove, and in particular a building was co- vered in at Paramatta, which was intended as a place of worlhip until a church could be built. ^ By that time the fettle rrient at Norfolk Ifland was conliderably improved. The wheat harvelt was fuc- cefsful, yielding about a thoufand bulhels of wheat, which were well got in, and thatched in flacks. The Lieutenant Govsrnor had eftabliflied fome military re- gulations, and laid down rules for the obfervance of every pcrfon on the ifland ; fo that on the 15th of Ja- nuary, npi, things in general wore a promifing afped: in this settlement : 260 bufhels of Indian corn were gathered in; many acres were in different flares of growth, and likely to yield plentiful harvefts. The florehoufes and granaries were in good repair;- and every effort was made to extirpate the virmin with which they were in- ' fefted. The vines flourifhed exceedingly, and afforded the colonifls the plealing expedtation of a fpeedy and ample fupply of wines. At Norfolk Ifland a quantity • of excellent lime-flonc was difcovered, which forming a very good cement, obviated every inconvenience to which they had been previoufly fabjeded in ereding their buildings. This account arrived in 1793. From diipatches received in 1795, it appears, that great improvements were making at the fettlement called Paramatta, which is fituated on an elevated fpot, in the form of a crefcent. A flrong redoubt is conflrudl- ed in that place, where there are barracks for a detach- ment of the military, which is always on duty there, as well to preferve good order and regularity among Mie convids, as a check upon the natives, who, from the diftance to Sydney Cove, might be tempted to molefl the fettlers, were there nc armed force to proted them. Much order and decorum prevailed among the con-w .tids, who were in general more attentive to their bufi- nefSj and refpedful to thofe who are appointed to fu- perintend them, than can be eafily imagined. Some are ertiployed in n^.aking bdcks and tiles, others in building warehoufesj huts, &c. a great number in 24 4 B clearing; 562 APPENDIX. clearing the grounds, bringing in timber, and mak- ing roads. Others at their different callings, fuch as fmiths, gardeners, cooks, flioemakcrs, taylors, bakers, attendants on the fick, &:c. The hours of work are from fun-rife till half pad feven, when they breakfaft : at half paft eight they refume their work till half paft eleven, when thc7 are rung to dinner: at two they recommence their labours ; and the fetiiiig of the fun is the fiq^.al that terminates their daily toil, and which is anr.ounced by the drum beating a retreat. ,.. ; k.;_^ ^.. ;,>%,: . ..■ In order to encourage the cultivation or gardens, Saturday is appropriated to clear away and cultivate fpots for themfclves ; and thofe who have been in- . duftrious, now find the benefit by having plenty of vegetables, which faves their fait provifions, and enables them to truck with the natives for fifli. In- dependent of this advantage, thofe who rear the ' greatell quantities of vegetables and plants, receive premiums from the govcrrrr, who, at the proper leafon of the year, diftributes feeds among them for that purpofe. The women fwecp round the huts • every morning, and return each man his refpe61ive linen, waflicd and mended on the Sunday morning. No perfon is excufed from attending divine wor- Ihip, which is performed every Sunday morning at eleven o'clock, when all the convidts are obliged to attend in clean linen, and behave In a more orderly and devout manner than would be naturally expect- ed. Indeed, the indefatigable zeal and wife mea- fures purfued by the governor, in the formation of this infant colony, is beyond all praife. Thofe convi6ts whofe term of tranfportation is expired, have lands granted them in the following proportions: thirty acres to every fingle man ; fifty to the married men, and ten more for every child. They receive provifions and cloathing from the pub- lic ftores for the firft eighteen months ; the necefifary tools and implements of hulbandry, with feed.? and grain to ibvv the ground the firft year. Two fow : .pigs .APPENDIX. 56^ pigs are alfo given to each fettlef, and a pair or two of fowls. On thcfe conditions twenty-feven, at the clofe of this year, had commenced farming in the neighbourhood of Paramatta ; and as there are many induftrlous people among the fettlers, their ftock fooii began to thrive, and the face of the country to fhcw evident ligns of culture. From the lateft accounts, dated December 21, 1795, and received the beginning of Janua.y 1797, it appears that the colony at Port Jackfon is extend- ed forty miles up the country, and much increafed in population, as well as highly improved in culti- vation. It is Hated in thefe accounts, that the flou-' riihing condition of this fettlemcnt prefented the moll marked contrail to the opinions which prevailed in England* In Norfolk llland, where the ground is much more fertile than at Port Jackfon or Paramatta, the wheat frequently produces an increafe of twenty fold ; and it is conjectured that future harvefts will be more produ6Hve. When the laft dispatches came away It was the fummer feafon, and all defcriptlons of perfons were engaged in colledling the harveft, which was moll abundant* The crops of all kind of grain were good, of wheat particularly fo; it was thought equal to two years confumption j and fuch, in fa6t, as to obviate, in future, the diftrefs the fettlement had hitherto experienced from the delay or negletl in for- warding fupplles from England* The only fcarcity they experienced was of animal food ; for, although there is a confiderable number of cattle In the colo- ny, yet the proprietors, defirous of increafing their llock, rarely fend them to market. The town of Sydney, the capital of the colony, with the exception of the governor's houfe, and a few others belonging to the civil and military offi- cers, is ftill compofed of huts : improvements are fpoken of, but the principal concern is wif The productions of this country are but few ; at lead we have not been fortunate enough to make any recent difcovery : the interior is, however, little known. As a ftriking inflance of the want of enterprife, or a6tivity, it may be neceflary to mention a fa6l which lately occurred. Eight years iince, a bull and fix cows llrayed from their keeper into the woods: a fear of venturing far amongft the native.s, then fomewhat hoftile, reprefled all attempts to regain them ; indolence fuccceded thefe fears, and no fearch was ever infthuted. Some lime Iince, an officer's fervant, fliooting in the woods, between twenty and thirty miles from Sydney, difcoveriid them, and condu6led the governor and a party of his friends to the fpot, where they found a herd coa- fiding of nearly fixty head of remarkably fine. cattle : the bull attacked the party, who, with fome difficuK ty, efcaped unhurt. That a neighbourhood of thir* ty miles by land, prefenting no unufual obftacles to an adventurer, fhould, in the almoli ftarving ftate of the colony, have remained unexplored for (o long a pericf',, is not to be accounted for otherwife than by the apathy or defpondency of the fettlers. But as the natives, through the perfevering diligence and almofl inexhauftible patience of the governor and principal officers, are now more conciliated and familiarized to Europeans than they were at the fjrrt planting of the colony, they are much lefs annoyed by their incurfions and depredations, and, of con- fequence, enjoy much more comfort and tranqui* lity. In Ihort, it appears, from the teftimony of feveral refpeClable perfons who have tranfmitted ac^ counts by the lateft difpatches, that the colonies are Ml a very flourifhing ftate; and that, notwitbiland* ittg the former opinions of many to the contrary, they If APPENDlX.li* 565 tlicy will effe£lually anfwcr every dcfign of their eftablifliment, and prove the wifdom and prudence of government, from their apparent advantage to individuals in particular, and the community in ge- neral. GENERAL OBSERVATIOXS. - - It has been remarked, by an obfcrvcron the fpot, of eminent difcernmenc and penetration, that if the • lily, linil ind, and , plough as they , can be ill be the tobacco, articles, Madeira^ will not ;c out, as nvariably iedu6ted. , or cafli purpofe. ir claflfes, tage, un- l fervants, jrica; for U'be dif- )c fettled, ly peri(h ' • . 1/ TO jfltiorftl M » 'I i . ' • ,i» /iMt'v'jffr -b-'-r-wibob uW-D^^'^ciions to the Binder, fna/fi .^n. :v -A V A ^■:'i -V- .*l .--^■^ •l^'J]^ -3.