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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. rata D lelure. id 3 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 F> R I C E SO CENTS ?( ).)~|, .(„,(.....,»,„.•.» S -♦■■■!■ . I j "W" hiMi ''^mB^^' U:i^ TTINGS FROM Kv GLKND •*• TO Via. THH STt^RITS OF IVmGEItljtAfl O -^1 IN THE S. S. <( WEST INDIAN ♦» NW 910.4 1^ •»• BV •!• RRV IRORESTER VANCOUVER, B.C. riiTNTED B^ THEi?Et,EOR.AM PBINTlNtt AND PUBLISHINO CO. 1891. • :::::::"!'! ..i:r : ! : i ? *TI iib!l3.1 :d!-H ! ' . * »TS&«fibJ«s*!(Sii!«aft KiHH'lIVI III tl Hip -W PROVINCIAL ARCHIVES of British Columbia Northwest Collection Pio ^ VAb 1'. o. r! R Rea CON 413 Mo w.-H.-.souLE- I A. B. DIPI.OCK THE l^ioneer Stevedore 840 POWELL ST- VANCOlTVEll r. o. BOX (IS Ji. c. ROUNSEFELL&CO. Real Estate, Insurance and General Agents CONVEYANCERS, NOTARIES PUBLIC, ETC. i 413 HASTINGS ST. WEST Vancouver, B. C. Money Loaned on BestTerms PJstates Managed and Rents Collected NOTARY PUBLK; • REAL ESTATE BROKER 5or-5U9 Hastiims St. ^Vfst ."->' 17 VANCOUVER imiTlSH - COLUMBIA ESTATES CAREFULLY MANAGED FOR NON-RESIDENTS P. O. BOX 194 TELEPHONE .^O. 203 Mainland Market 38 AND 40 Cordova 8t. VANCOUVER HAYES & Mcintosh WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN Every Description of Fresh and Salt MEATS TELErilONE No. 50. Gkorcjk Hayes Wm. a. McIntosh — Ti: E V ANCO U VER- 8HIP : BUILDING, ; SEALING : AND ■ TRADING COMPANY, Limited Capital Stock 1200,000 Omcps : 413 HASTINGS ST. W. Vancouver, B. C. Ask Yora Eooksellkk for "OCEAN : JOTTINGS" It may be obtained in Victoria at Jamieson's Bookstore Government Street Vancouver at Diplook's, Hastings Street New Westm'r at Morey's, Columbia St. The BRITISH COLUMBIA STEAMSHIP CO., Ltd. SpKCI M The Fine Steamship "WEST INDIAN" (Commander S. F. Scott) Will, until further notice, make rejfular passages between Nanaimo I San Francisco CALLING AT Victoria and Vancouver and, if sufficient enducement offers, at New Westminster. Excellent Accommodation eor Saloon Passengers For Freight, Passage and other parti- culars, address Capt. Scott, care Baker Bros. Water Street VANCOUVER, - B.C. The Alhambra Corner WAITER & CARR ALL STS. Vancouver, B.C. WILSON McKINNON, Proprietor. WM. sii SHAN AND F Union ' J 27 Vtn Uasti: jl'.O. J»> H Mus 78( JMBIA ., Ltd. SHIP [AN " DOTT) ke regular incisco :!OUVER it oflPers, ION FOR FiS ;lier parti- ?r Bros. i.e. BRA iL STS. RIETOR. «;i'K(iALTV FARM LANDS and UMBER LIMITS kVM. SHANNON (JHAS. .M(LA<'nLAN SHANNON c^i\rLA('HLAN HEAL ]^]STATE AND FINANCIAL AdENTS (JENERAL AlihNTS TO THE . Union - Assuran(uo - Sociktv ' Instituted A.I). 17U 127 'S'cars' Experience in British ■ Columbia. ITas.tin'(!s St., opp. Leland Hotel VANCOUVER, B.C. f;n'1'irely n ew stock H. M()rey & Co. Printers, Booksellers Stationers -DEALERS IN Musical Instruments^-^---- .::r:^-EET0yS, '. NOtJOnS FANCY -:- GOODS 780 Columbia Street NEW WESTMINSTER p. O. I'.ox 2(51 I'.o. BOX 246 T. Thralc Sicli WHOLEISALK A IJETAn, TOBACCONIST IMl'OKTER OF . Wills a Lambert &Rutlers Enirlish Tobaccos -Conu-r Cordova an"fKvi«- ^hc Bailn olelegraiu IS THE NiOWrflKST PAPEK IN VANCOUVER AND HAS A LARGER CIRCULA- TION THAN ANY OTHER DAILY PAPER ON THE MAINLAND OF a. C. O JOB PRINTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES OCEAN ® JOTTINGS J FROM — ENGLAND TO BRITISH COLUMBIA BEING A RECORD OF A VOYAGE FROM Liverpool to Vancouver's Island VIA THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN THE STEAMSHIP "WEST INDIAN" AND EMBRACING SCENES AND INCIDENTS OF THE CHILIAN REVOLUTION (1891) BY H-A-IiliTr FOiiESTEI^ VANCOUVER, B. C. • PRINTED BY THE TELEGRAM PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO. 1891. II PREFAC i ® I N submitting this, n^ fir;:t nttompt r f literature to the ordeal of ] »iil)hc ci'iticism^ and especially in a ne\v' country, I feel a certain amount of misgiving as t(/ the manner in which my humble efforts will be received. The incidents occurring wer^ originally intended for my private Note Book only, aud w^ero carelessly jotted down from day to day to fill up the spare moments which are inevitable in a long sea voy- age. At the solicitation, however, of my fellow- passengers, coupled with, perhaps, the pardonable ambition of being considered an " author," I have decided to place on record the scenes whicli took place, and the impressions formed during our eleven weeks' voyage. Doubtless it will be found deficient in that perspicuous arrangement with which the tast^ and judgment of a practised literary hand would have embellished it, the absence of which will, however, I trust be overlooked. For the geographical and historical descrip- tions of some of the places referred to, I am, to a. Prri'in N. W. History DeptJ Q /!}rr»*> f^nO ' NCIAL- LIBRARY > a>*jtO 4 ::^ ViGTORiA, B.C. — 4 — certain extent, indebted to Mr. A. G. Findlay and Admiral Fitzroy, and comprised in their admir- able works on navigation of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, brought up to date by informa- tion I have personally gathered. The scenes and incidents occurring during the recent deplorable revolution in Chili, including the bombardment of Coronel and an exciting ad- venture with one of her men of war, are, I am afraid, very inefficiently portrayed. At the same time however, they have at least the merit of actual facts, and are not in any way fictitious, and I have thus ventured to include them, in the hope that they may prove interesting. In conclusion, I beg to dedicate this little work to Captain S. and Mrs. Scott, in recognition of many little kindnesses shewn during an ex- tremely pleasant voyage. H. F. Cc Vancouver, B.C., March, 1891. i I CONTENTS. — 17 CHAPTER I. PAGE Concerning the Author — London — Motives for the Voyage — The Railway Journey to Liverpool — An Amusing Old Lady — Directions to a Bachelor on packing up 9 CHAPTER II. Liverpool and its Docks — Exciting Search for a "West Indian" — The British ' Columbia Steamship Company— The Manchester Ship Canal 1«^ CHAPTER III. I again alter my plans — A Precocious Boy — South- port and Old Recollections — Impressions formed frdm Advertisements — An Incident at the Barber's— The Recent Dock Labourers' Strikes 18 ■"HAPTER IV. Embarkation— Our Passengers and Crew — We make some Progress, but not much — Our Captain's Daughter— Fairly under Weigh, and Good-bye to dear old Eagland 24 CHAPTER V. Ma! de mer — A Reminiscence of Boulogne — Madeira — The Canaries— Our Amusements — St. Paul's Rocks 27 12 — 23 26 — 31 11 — 6 — CHAPTER VI. PAGE The Equator — A Wonderful Phenomenon — A Barherous Custom — Fernando Noronha Island —The Rocas— A Tropical Twilight. 32 — 35 CHAPTER VII. Christmas Eve — Fishing — A Dolphin audits Pecu- liarities — A few remarks on Natural History — A Thick J'og and a Heavy Gale — Cape Virgens 36 — 4a CHAPTER VIII. Straits of Magellan — The Natives — Romantic Marriage of an English Lady witha Patagonian ♦' Apollo "—We Drop Anchor 41—44 CHAPTER IX. • Magellan Straits (continued)— Sandy Point — More about the Natives — Probable Origin of the Legal Custom of Sealing Deeds — End of the Straits '. . . 45 — 52 CHAPTER X. The South Pacific — A "Swell" Acquaintance — A Spell of Bad Weather — Mocha Island — The King of Fishes — Santa Maria Island and Arauco Bay — A New Dinner Dish 53 — 57 CHAPTER XI. Coronel and Lota — The Richest Woman in the World — Chili, its Resources, Rivers and Mountains — Santiago and its Beauties — A Recipe for getting through Time 58 — 63 Tl C C PAGE 32-35 36 — 40 41-44 CHAPTER XII. PAGE The Chilian Revolution— The "Esmeralda" (not Victor Hugo's) but nevertheless "victorious" — Bombardment of Coronel — Exciting Scenes. 64 — 69 CHAPTER XIII. Coaling under difficulties — An invitation to Break- fast — "Chili" weather — A chapter of Para- doxes — Views on Electric Light — A curious coincidence 70 73 CHAPTER XIV. Our troubles not yet over — Exciting chase by a Man of War — A narrow squeak — Further particulars of the Revolution — Full speed ahead once more 74 - 79 45 — 52 53 — 57 8 — 63 CHAPTER XV. Juan Fernandez Island — Scene of Robinson Cru- soe's Adventures — Islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix — On Salt Water Baths — An Octopus —A Snmmer's Day— The Booby Bird- The Galapagos Islands — On Laughter SO CHAPTER XVI. 86 The Doldrums — Turtle — The Boatswain Bird — Rolls for Breakfast — A White Squall — On Calming the Waves, cUho a Wife — Clipperton Island 87—90 CHAPTER XVII. A strong current impedes our progress — The Revilla Gigedo Islands — Again in sight of land — An attack of Indigestion — Guadaloupe — J. he Calif ornian Islands — Off San Francisco 91 — 98 ,7:i: i! 8 — CHAPTER XVIII. PAGE And Last — Destruction Island — Cape Flattery — On the benefit and healthfulness of the voyage — A few remarks on British Columbia 99 -108 Itinerary of the Voyage 109 — 111 • / ?e PAGE 99 -108 109 -111 CHAPTER I Will probably be considered egotistical^ AS it chiefly concerns the Author — London — Motives for the Voyagi; — The Railway Journey to Liverpool — An Amusing Old Lady — Directions to a Bachelor on " Packing up." IT is November, and London at this par- ticular period of the year wears its dull- est aspect. I had often made up my mind, when an opportunity offered, to take a lengthened sea voyage, for the benefit of my health, and having recently wound up some business matters, I began making enquiries as to the most suitable trip. I was seated in my chambers one bitterly cold evening — a dense fog^ which had assumed various degrees of density during the day, was gradually settling over the Metropolis in the form of a thick haze, of a thick yellow pea-soupy colour, which I think cannot be found out of London, and fortunate indeed are those lucky individuals who possess sufficient ii ' i ;. -10-- ^eans to be ah]^ f^ a ^*;e Times :; ^4^: J^J— cop, of the advertisements I saw "n '"^°"'"^^ '^^^r «WP that would shoiTlI T ''"""""cement of a , <^oI„n.bia via the st^,^ j'^ *- British enquiry I ascertained th ^''^'"''»- O^ ten to twelve weeksaLi,/""'^^ ^^^"^ fro«» exception of a tet^CLfl' ^^''P^' "^'^ the . , ^ the prospect of Z' *'"^' ^'^^''e ^o"ld --y. This L a Lat\r^ "'^'^*'^'^'- ^'' *he tually decided to sS '.^ ''""^»*' «»'! I even- on which I saw theTdvei ""^'^'- '^^^ '^^^ «f November, and the S:?".* "" '''' ^^^^ ''on or about" the mT .^^^^'^'■''^ed to sail -hich my preparations L;^^,*''^* *'''^ *-e i„ -ery li„,ited. I ha.tii; Wd adt r^'"'^' "«^ fnd. now commenced tW? "^ *"ends, bachelor, " packin. up - ^? P^* *^e«ion of a who aver you c«n T ^'''"^ «'* some people Ba^ howev^er" Tch^:; T^V "^^^*-« Mclmed to agree. Ther,rn„ •^•' ^ ^n^ alwost Take the bag and see Z?.r '' ^"'"'^ «'">?'«- -nmK or a\it of ll V ^^' "' "° '''^'="-* then fill it a«f„„ ^ ett .r"n'/* ^^-^ ^^ttom, -t it (N.B.--Much depends o"''^''' *''^" ^^ear -a copy of ming over '"lent of a '«r British Ilan. On ike from ^ith the '^e Would ^ aJJ the ^^ I even - ^^Q date the 12th ■d to sail time in fced Was *"ends, n of a people tclstone almost nple — biscuit )ttom, swear • tr ex- fuJJy ^et a then — 11 — think if there is anything else you would like to take, if you had room ; then poke an extra pair of boots somewhere or other in the comers ; then say your prayers ; then lightly spread over the top some bottles of ink, scent, and castor oil; i a few jumps on the top ; the bag strapped down, and the thing is done. At last my preparations were completed, and on the 15th, accompanied by an old chum, who was to see me off, I left Euston Station by the 4 o'clock train for Liverpool Euston, as usual, was crowded with passengers bound for all parts of the country. We had taken our tickets, secured our seats, and the train was about start- ing, when an old lady was violently thrust into our compartment by the angry Guard. She was evidently much annoyed at the " hill treatment," as she called it, of the railway officials, and for y some time we were much amused by the old lady's mumblings against people in general, and particularly railway " proprietors." From time to time she would soothe her injured feelings by recourse to a fairly sized flask, containing, as we judged from the aroma, brandy and water, and she was not at all ashamed of being seen imbibing it. When she wanted to drink, she did so, with- out waiting for a tunnel. She unscrewed the stopper with a squeak — tilted up the flask and il1^':V — 12 — gurgled, rnd then stowed it away in a very sub- stantial pocket ; indeed it must have been a very capacious pocket, judging from the number of articles she occasionally produced from it. - There were articles of clothing rolled up loosely ; keys, with bits of string entangled ; pins, pennies, lozenges, lumps of sugar, and no end of biscuit crumbs, whilst underneath everything was her railway ticket. It was a sight to see all this rubbish turned out on the seat at Edge Hill Station, whilst the impatier.t ticket collector wa'ted for the ticket. She wfus rather a facetious old lady too, for at Rugby Jxmction, where we were delayed for ten minutes, she beckoned the Guard and asked him if he called it a " fast "^ train. " Yes, ma'am," the Guard replied. " Humph, stuck fast I should think," responded the old lady — a joke she chuckled over for the next half hour. We arrived at Lime Street Station, Liverpool ,^ at 8.80, after a capital run of four hours and a half, a distance of over 200 miles. C-X' 5?3f\/\^ L!-^l_- ^ery sub- Jen a very urnber of '>' - There y; keys, pennies, t* biscuit was her all this dge Hill collector ■acetious here we ned the " fast '^ Humph, the old le next ^erpool, and a CHAPTER II. Liverpool and its Docks — Exciting Search FOR A " West- Indian " — The British Columbia Steamship Co. — The Manches- ter Ship Canal. THE next day (Sunday) we took the boat to New Brighton, which afforded a splendid view of the Docks and Shipping, the ex- tent of which (as most of my readers are no doubt aware) cannot be equalled by any other city in the world. The Docks from end to end extend for nearly sei^en miles. The great blot, however, that struck me was the very poor vehicular accommodation for reaching them. This consists of old and disgracefully dirty omni- busses, each drawn by two horses. I am glad to say, though, that an overhead railway is in course of construction, to supersede this tedious and disagreeable mode of travelling. In the afternoon we set out to inspect the ** West Indian," the ship I was to go by. We were told she was in the Bramley Moore Dock, I \\ — 14 — but on arriving there she was not to be found. The officials informed us she would probably be in the Sandon Dock, some distance further on> but on arriving there we were met with the same response, " Not here." We were referred to anotlier Dock still farther on, and there we traced our weary steps, but with the same result^ and we were about to abandon the chase in des- pair, when a dock keeper, more intelligent than the rest, referred to a register, and informed us she was lying in the Wapping Dock, f?ome live miles off, almost at the other extremity of the city. This was very annoying — it was getting dark, and the rain came down in torrents, but we had to grin and bear it, and we were anxious to see the vessel to-day, as my friend's business necessitated his return to London on the morrow. We accordingly made the best of our way to the Wapping Dock, and about 6 p.m., on a miserably dark night, found the object of our search. I must here state that a new line has just been formed under the title of the " British Columbia Steamship Company," with a view to trading between Vancouver, B. C, and the Aus- tralian ports, and the " West Indian" is the pioneer ship of the Company. She is a fine vessel of 1,805 tons, 200 H. P., and is a capital seaboat. to be found, probably be further on^ «t with the ere referred d there vve 'anie result, as« in des- igent than formed us ••^ome hVe ify of the as getting •I'ents, but fe anxious ^ business e morrow, ^ay to the aiiserably ch; basjust " British view to he Aus- is the 3 a fine capital — 15 — The next day, upon enquiry at the agents', we ascertained that the steamer, in consequence of the happening of unforeseen circumstances,, was not expected to sail for another fortnight. This was very annoying, and hearing, through a friend in Liverpool, that a barque called the "Archer," would be sailing in a few days for British Columbia, and not wishing to wait about in Liverpool, I made up my mind to go with her, much against the advice of my frieiid, who con- sidered the length of the voyage (probably six months) would get monotonous, and that the rough fare and accommodation usually to be found in a cargo ship unaccustomed to carrying passengers, would probably counteract any good effects to be obtained from the voyage. My friend Montgomery had now to return to London, and having seen him off, I went to the Docks to inspect the " Archer," and even- tually made arrangements for my passage. The cabin allotted to me was certainly very small, but I decided to put up with the inconveniences, and set out on my voyage as soon as possible. Whilst in Liverpool, I took the opportunity of running down to Eastham, to inspect that vast undertaking, the " Manchester Ship Canal," now in course of construction. Should the work be successfully completed, the trade of Liverpool i i ;• — 16 — Avill uiuloubtedly suffer, but having regard to tlie enormous amount of capital already sunk in the concern, and the additional capital now asked for, I have my doubts as to the scheme succeed- ing. The difficulties and obstacles which the Company have had to contend with are very great, and the recent heavy storms have done much damage to the works, in addition to which they will have to encounter the po erful oppo- sition of the London & North We^ rn Railway Company, who will always be in a position to reduce their tariff to meet the circumstances. During the progress of these works, an interest^ ing archa3ological discovery was made. About a mile from the entrance to the Canal was found an ancient Roman road, with proper pavestones, milestones, etc., fourteen feet below the surface, and stranger still, the roots of several oak trees that had evidently grown on the road, were also dug out. Again, underneath this road was a subterranean passage leading to the sea, and probably built to carry the water off, thus shew- ing that at one time the land must have been at this level. Close to this spot is a large dwelling - house, which, according to history, was at one time Oliver Cromwell's head-quarters. The depth oi* the Canal is 30 feet, which will enable the largest ships to enter, and is broad enough regard to the ' sunk in the l1 now asked enie succeed- 58 which the ith are very IS have done tion to which erful oppo- rn Railway- El position to ircumstances. I, an interest' ade. About al was found pavestones, the surface, al oak trees d, were also road was a e sea, and thus shew- ve been at e dwelling ' as at one -ers. The m\\ enable ad enough - 17 — enable them to pass each other, thus doing away with the necessity of hauling into siw the stones unless she gave him sixpence ! My friend came to dinner in the evening, and Pter talking over old times, I explained to him; ly proposed voyage. He had experienced a )od deal of sea travelling, both by sail and }eam, and he strongly argued the desiral)ility^ "om numerous points of view, of going by a ieamer in preference to a sailing vessel, with lie result that I again altered my plans, and [ecided to follow out my original scheme. I lad paid a deposit for my pa,ssage by the [Archer," but the owners kindly met me very LV©rably on my explaining to them my altered Irrangements. To till up the time before the steamer s. ilod ^as my next consideration, and having some riends in Southp^rt, a very pleasant watering [lace some twenty miles distant, I decided to )end a few days there. During the journey I ^as much amused by the numerous, and some of hem curiously expressed advertisements, which ii — 20 — &t every station covered the hoardings. Here are a few : — " Pear's Soap," " Beecham' s Pills," *' Reekitt's Blue," " ask for it and see you get it." P((yr)ient is never hinted at in the request. * Why pay rent ?" was another enquiry that met my modest gaze, and I inwardly commented that i it was a very sensible question , so much so that | I have made a note of the name and address of the Company in my pocket book, in the fond hope that it may be useful to me in the future when being pestered by my landlady. Truly, advertising has become almost one of the fine arts, to such an extent -and extravagance has it arrived at. On arrival at SouthpoH, I was doomed to I meet with another disappointment, as my friends were absent on a visit. I accordingly decided to stay at one of the Hv^dropathic Establishments in the town. I selected the " Limes," and spent a very pleasant visit there, meeting some very nice people. The weather, though cold and] frosty, was verj brigut and fine, and an agree- able contrast to dirty Liverpool. South port is noted for its number of Churches I and Schools, and also for its pretty girls. Nep- tune always seems to have a welcome for pretty girls. He offers them his "(s)and," and what do they do in return ? " 'Tread on it." JLust li ke girls ! — 21 — I The last time I wavS there wavS in the summer of 1880, being then a youth in my " teens." I was I staying with a schoolfellow, and we spent many a pleasant hour on the sands picking up the common objects to be found there. By the b3''e, I think at the period I speak of, the most com- mon objects to be found there were the daily excursionists ; but I am not alluding to these. One day my friend and I anuised ourselves on the sands in the cliild-like occupation of throwing pebbles. My friend hit a young lady in the eye.. He apologised of course. The next year they Iwere married ! What a curious thing is fate ! A rather curious incident occurred here dur- ling m}^ stay. I was in the hairdresser's, waiting niy turn to be attended to. A very pompous jand talkative young man was operating upon a somewhat nervous old gentleman, and the fol- lowing dialogue took place : — Barbek — "They say the 'Russian Hinflu- inza's ' in the ' air ' again, sir." Old Gentleman — " Indeed ! then I hope you ire very particular about the Brushes you use. Barber — " Oh, I see you don't hunderstand ine, sir : I don't mean the 'air of the 'ed, but the air of the Hatmosphere ! Your 'air's very thin on the top, sir." Old Gentleman — " My hair thin on the top,. w f I 1- III !| 11 — 22 — : sir ? And what if it is ? Confound you, you puppy, do you think I came here to be insulted and told of my personal defects ? I'll thin your top !" And the old gentleman struck such a waT-like attitude, and the barber looked so sur prised and crestfallen that all the customers roared with laughter. During my sojourn in Southport, I commu nicated With the Agents of the " West Indian," and made definite arrangements for my passage, and on the 2nd of December I returned to Liver- pool, as the ship was to sail on the following day. To return to the subject of the Docks here, I cannot help alluding to the recent deplorable strikes which have recently taken place amongst the Dock labourers, not only in Liverpool, but in other large shipping towns in England. My view is that every man has a right to sell his own labour at whatever price he feels entitled to demand, but that no one has a right to prevent others from selling their labour at any piice they may choose to put upon it. Indeed, I go so far as to think that strikes, temperately conducted, cannot, upon principle, be condemned, being often a protection for the working classes ; but w^here combinations of workmen, headed, a.s they frequently are, by the more skilled an 1 best paid among them, endeavour to carry out their nd you, you be insulted '11 thin your uck such a )ked so sur e customers t, I commu- '^est Indian," my passage, led to Liver- ►llowing day. >ocks here, I t deplorable iace amongst rpool, but in gland. My d to sell his s entitled to to prevent y price they I go so far conducted, ined, being lasses ; but ded, a-s they d an I best y out their — 23 — particular views by threats, or molestation of their Isss skilled and less paid companions, then I consider such combinations to be unjust. I would appeal to the good sense, justice, and liberality of employers to make the hire worthy of the labourer, and to the justice and intelligence of the labourer, not to demand a higher rate of wages than the investment of capital, and the risk attending it, wou-Jd justify the employer in giving. My view is that the working classes, although impulsive, when they come to consider matters calmly, judge wisely, and that they are as open to conviction as any other class, and iis quickly arrive at a sound decision. ■Hm ' i I ill I . CHAPTER IV. Embarkation — Our Passengers and Crew — We make some Progress, but not much — Our Captain's Daughter — Fairly under Weigh, and Good-bye to dear OLD Engla-nd. THE next day (December 3rd), I embarked on board the " West Indian." She was under the command of Captain S. F. Scott (a very able and remarkably nice man), assisted by three officers, who, with the crew, numbered thirty hands, all told. The ship was well laden wnth a general cargo, and I understand is the first steam vessel that has been despatched with goods from Liverpool to British Columbia. We carried but five saloon passengers, viz., Captain W (an officer in Her Majesty's Militia), Mrs. W (his wife), Mrs. Scott, a boy of .sixteen (who was the source of much amusement on the voyage, and who is hereafter referred to as " Tommy ") and your humble servant. -26 Crew — NOT MUCH - Fairly TO DEAR embarked She was tain S. F. nice man), the crew, The ship go, and I it has been to British passengers, r Majesty's s. Scott, a 1 of much > hereafter ir humble The weatlier was very cold, wet, and misty, and at midday we made preparations for departure. The Directors and friends, who w^ere lunching on board, drank to the success and prosperity of the new venture, and shortly afterwards returned to the shore in the tugboat. At 1 p.m., the Pilot being on board, the anchor was raised, and w^e were fairly started on our long journey. We proceeded at a slow pace down the Mersey, which weus crowded with shipping of all sorts, and belonging to all nations. Off New Brighton we espied a little maiden standing in the garden of one of the houses, and endeavoring to attract our attention by means of a roughly constructed flag, apparently consisting of her handkerchief stuck on the end of a long stick. This turned out to be the little daughter of our Captain, who was at school there, and who was being separated from her parents for the first time. She was evidently a favorite, for both Captain and Mrs. Scott appeared to feel the separation keenly. We had now left the Mersey, and got well out into the Irish Channel, when the bell rang for dinner, and as everyone had now become acquainted, we spent a very pleasant evening. The sea was very choppy, and beinfif misty, we proceeded at a moderate pace. About 8 p.m. we were off Point Linos, and signalling by rocket for Ill — 26 — the Pilot Boat, we dispensed with our Pilot's services. A little further on we passed that dangerous group of rocks known as " The Sker- ries," but on which there is a splendid light-house, and as the evening was very cold and miserable, your humble servant now turned in. The wind being favorable we set our sails, and were now steaming merrily along. The Skerries was the last glimpse we had of dear old England, and recalled many pleasant recollections of happy times and dear friends left behind. Adieu, my native land, adieu, The vessel spreads her swelling saiL ; Perhaps I never more may view Your fertile fields, your flowery dales. CHAPTER V. I HAVE AN Attack of Mal de Mer, and- "seas" the opportunity to express my feelings in rhyme — a reminiscence of Boulogne — Madeira — The Canaries — Our Amusements — St. Paul's Rocks. THE weather continued very cold for the next few days, and there was a rough sea, but we had favorable winds and going well to the west of the Bay of Biscay,, avoided the bad weather usually met with in that locality. I am told we sighted several vessels about this time, but as I was suffering from a rather bad attack of mal de mer, which confined me to my bunk, I did not see them personally. I was not so bad, however, as I have seen some people suffering from the same malady. It recalled to my mind one day last summer when I was crossing from Folkestone to Boulogne. The Channel was rather choppy, but for a wonder I was very well. There were two friends, however, on board who suffered acutely. — 28 — One of them retired at a very early stage of the journey, but the other remained mournfully gazing over the side for the greater part of the way. By and bye his friend, trying to look as if nothing had been the matter, came on deck again to sympathise with him. " Halloa, old man," he cried, " been queer ?" " Yes," replied the other, " rather ; but that's not the worst, Tve lost my teeth !" The following lines, penned a few days afterwards wlien I had recovered, will, I think, express my feelings : ON SEA-SICKNESS BY A SUFFERER. Our good ship " West Indian," rides over the sea, The engines work bravely, the hawjier springs free, Tis sweet without sickness the ocean to ride, And gaily " Oh, Steward !" — your arm to the side. Oh think not good Captain, from foul mal de mer I suffer — 'twas nothing — I love the brisk air, The sun shining brightly, the green heaving tide, And the gulls — " Oh, Steward !" — your arm to the side. Yes, how fresh smells the briny, how soft curls the wave, What painful sensations long usage will save. I pace the deck bravely with heart full of pride, Remarking " Oh, Steward !" — your arm to the side. Thanks, Steward — What, really ! You thought I was ill ? Absurd ! (If those engines would only keep still) I could eat chops or kidneys, or pork boiled or fried, *' So please get me. Steward — Oh !" — your arm to the side. — 29 — The weather was now perceptibly warmer, and we were able to leave off our overcoats and warm clothing, which had Ijeen necessary in England for two months past. We sighted Madeira on the 10th of December, distant from Liverpool about 1,800 miles, the run thus occu- pying about seven days. Madeira, a pleasant island in the Atlantic, formerly belonging to England, but now to the Portuguese, is a health resort too wed known to- need much comment here. Consumptive and delicate persons here find a climate which m almost perfect and uniform. The Hotels are good and the fruit and vegetation luxuriant. There are no wheeled carriages, you have to travel in rough vehicles fixed on runners, some- thing like a sledge, and drawn by oxen — or the alternative is . to be carried in hammocks or palanquins. The streets are paved with well- polished stones, on which it is difficult and well nigh impossible to walk in ordinary boots. Another day's sail brought us abreast the group of Islands known as " The Canaries," the principal town being Las Palmas. These islands belong to Spain, and, like Madeira are much resorted to by invalids on account of their balmy and salubrious climate. The highest point is the Peak of Teneriffe, which can be m lii;i — 30 discerned at a considerable distance, and forms an excellent landmark for navigators. When a stnmg easterly wind prevails, however, it brings with it large cjuantities of sand from the Sahara Desert on the African continent, some 150 niiies •distant, in fact to such an extent, that it has formed — through a course of years — a ridge connecting Grand Canary with what was at one time an adjoining island. All these islands are of volcanic origin. On the 15th we passed the Cape Verde Islands. These belong to Portugal, are ten in number and also of volcanic origin. Fogo is an acti '^ volcano, and rises tc the height of 9,150 feet. i. last eruption took place in 1847, and vapour may bt. even now seen rising from its summit. San Thiago is the largest, as well as the most unhealthy of these islands. It is tliirty-seven miles hmg, and has a population of 32,000. None of tb.fMe islands are very fertile, though there are tropical plants in some parts. Sugar coffee, cocoanuts, corns, beans, cotton, &c., are all seen in cultivaticm. Criminals are trans- ported to these islands from Portugal, and tliis punishment is much dreaded. All the towns are wretchedly dirty places, and there are few ^ood houses. Cape Verde itself is the extreme west j)oint of the African mainland. The weather was now charming— clear blue — 31 - • sky and lu'i^lit HUiisliiiio, ami contiinuMl so for the following ten dnyn, when halt* a day's rain broke the monotony, and was very ret'resliin^. We sighted several vessels, and ahout this time one of the Pacific Steam Naviiifation Company's Mail Steamers, homeward Ixmnd, passed us, and we signalled lier *' All well." Although the number of passengers were limited, we iuanaged to pass the time very pleasantly. OMr mornings were generally spent in reading, and the afternoons in playing ship billiards, quoits, etc. The evenings we fille bocas," a "ormida- hle danger in the Atlantic — the currents being very powerful. These rocks have been the scene of many sad wrecks. Poor Tommy, who was now sufiering from toothache, was very indignant at tlie dirnier table this evening, because some one suggested he was cutting a wisdom tooth. No one could be surprised at his indisposition, for the (juanti- ties of cakes, sweets, etc., he consumed were enormous. Eating such numbers of sivcet cakes easily produce sionmiclt (c)aches. However, poor boy, it was the first time he had left home, and allowance must be made for youth. The days at this period were very hot, but a delightful breeze prevailed, and the evenings ^rcre cool and pleasant. Lovely is a tropical . ,,i'ight in these balmy months, — then is the o^^nr- for contem])lation, — it is then the mind .'. iigosov^r its best affections, and hearts, although ocjans separate tliem, hold a mysterious com- j'luning with each other. It is the poet nlone that can describe its influence, for the art .4* the painter is balHed; he cannot produce the arque, passed snts of e also fortu- vrong. :ed all them g was ^ had 1 the The I the there was a full moon, which followed one of the most beautiful sunsets it has been my lot to witness. What a contf'ast to dear old England, with prob- ably frost and snow ! We wound up the evening with the usual loyal toasts, and good wishes for the absent ones at home. On the 27th, we sighted the coast of South America, but at some distance off, and passing close to some banks, we put out the fishing-lines, and caught a splendid specimen of a dolphin. We had it cooked for dinner, and a very tasty dish, it made, somewhat resembling a mackerel. This was the opportunity for another practical joke on poor Tonnny. He happened to be below, and in his absence, we fastened a sheet of tin, rolled to resemble a fish, on the end of a Hue. We then loudly cried "fish, another bite." Tommy flew up stairs, and rushed to haul in the line, which was of some length, and it was not until the piece of tin was close to, that he found out he had again been hoaxed. Poor Tommy ! another startling incident for liis diary . Fish don't take their hook the same way as Tommy did. Much, however, depends on the kind of bait you use. There are several kinds of bait. White bait for instance. Then again, there was a girl who once waited for her lover iljM — 38 — with hated breath. Hooks have been baited with live men before now, but an Irishman is never hed of 21 knots. It was at vSandy Point that tlie dreadful calamity haj)])ened to tlie "Doterel," one of our British Gun Boats, in \HH\. She ha l)ut it is astonishino* how rapidly a hundred or more will a "':.'niV)le if tliey see an opportunity of attacking a very small vessel, oi' a wrecked part}'. Their boats, too, are very crude and roughly made. There is none of the graceful gliding" of tlie North American canoe about tliem. Inf^tead of being propelled by paddles, they ai-e rowed by oars, rudely made of pieces of board tied on tlie end of a pole. The canoes also, in- stead of l>eing hollowed out of the trunk of a large tree into a pretty shape, like those in Can- ada, are simply planks, held to 'ther by Hljnis, without the slightest regard t(^ form. In the bottom, in the miacco. Admiral Fitzroy, on ]\is first voyage, in LS30, took 2 boys and a girl with him to Eng- land, where they were most kindly treated and educated for 3 years, showing much aptness, and leading to great hopes that they might be the mm. — 50 I meaiiS of ameliorating the condition of their countrymen, but shortly after being restored to their native haunts, he found, on his second voy- age, that they had relapsed into their primitive barbarism. The noble kindness and sympathy shewn by Admiral Fitzroy to these outcasts has unfortunately proved of little avail, and the sub- sequent well intended, but misguided efforts of the Patagonian Mission, have also failed in less- ening the savageness of these wretched people. Even within the last few years the ship "Ann and Eliza," bound from Boston, was attacked in the Straits by 20 canoes filled w^th armed sav- iiges, who boarded her, and in a fearful liaiid to hand encounter, H of the crew were killed. Eventually, hbwever, the natives were beaten off with gi'eat slaughter, but the ship was left so short-handed that slie was with difficulty brouglit to Valparaiso. Before concluding my soiiiewliat lengthened, and I am afraid tedious, remarks anent these natives, I should like to say a few words about an old fashion — |ulf of lost Val- were these view h our id on ocha, it of ei'ous h our ease. , Was wei-e that only hich le, I and On ;y, ine mt iiie }> whale, but by reason of a squirting apparatus, fixed on the animal's snout, with which it ejects copious showers of salt water, and is thus enabled to rain over his companions. It is also said that these animals are year by year becoming more shy and wary, which, of course, accounts for the gi'eat difficulty in whale-laying and capturing them. So much for the whale. Numbers of Albatrosses, some of them very large, now followed us, and one day Captain VV shot a very fine specimen, measuring 10 feet from tip to tip. Soon afterwards we sighted Santa Maria Is- land, a point we were steering for, as marking the entrance to Coronel, where we had arranged to take in coal. It lies comparatively low, and is dangerous on account of numerous outlying rocks and shoals. Arauco Bay lies inside Santa Maria Islands It is about 15 miles broad, and is open to the north. A small river runs into this bay, up which, at one time, vessels of 200 tons could pass for nearly a mile, but the terrible earthquake of 1885 raised its bar so much as now to prevent access to more than small boats. The town of Arauco — famous in Spanish song and history — is simply a small collection of huts, standing upon a low piece of ground at the foot of the Colocao II — r>G — Jieights, a ran<^e of steop, thouo^h low hills, risiiicr about 600 feefc above the level of the sea. In the 16th century Arauco was surroundecl by a fosse, a stron*^ palisade, and a substantial wall, the work of the Spaniards. This was the iirst place assaulted by the Indians, after their grand union against the Spaniards, at the end of the 16th century. It was surrounded by the hostile Indians, who at first unsuccessfully attacked the fortress, but the Spaniards, seeing that they must be eventually overpowered, escaped in the dead of the night. Thus began the famous in- surrection which caused the destruction of 7 towns, and drove every Spaniard out of Arau- cania. At dinner this evening, the ste>vard raised our hopes — and appetites — by the pi'omise of a new dish, the name of which, appearing on the Bill of Fare, sounded very tempting. He called it " Woodcock a la Broadway," and we naturally concluded it was game of some sort. I think we all ate sparingly of the opening dishes, intending to reserve a capacious corner for the tasty morsel, but alas, we were doomed to disappointment, for when the cover was raised it was nothing more than a piece of ' roast pork and beans. The steward must look out, or there will be squalls presently. Poor Tommy was again disappointed — 57 — but this time he had the satisfaction of knowing he was not alone in this respect. This little incident, though trifling, provoked a good deal of laughter, and caused Tommy, who was making up for lost time with some plum pie, to swallow the stones. Perhaps, however, he did this with a view to jpave the way for the cheese and dessert. Rounding the northern point of Santa Mai'ia Island about o'clock on the morning of the 15th, we dropped anchor at Coronel at 8 bells, and about two hours afterwards the Captain of the Port boarded us, and examined our papers. He promised to return during the morning with the necessary permission to land, but failed to keep his word, much to our astonishment and dis- comfiture. Several ships were lying at anchor, but none of them were coaling, and it was evi- dent there was something wrong. There was nothing, however, to do, but to grin and bear it, as the Chilian harbour officials are very insolent and overbearing, and any attempt at interference with their absurd and ridiculous regulations, would be unwise in the extreme — a fact our Cap- tain was fully aware of from previous experience. A few words regarding Coronel, and the neigh- bouring town of Lota, may not be here out of place, and they will be found in the following chapter. CHAPTER XI. CORONEL AND LOTA — ThE RICHEST WOMAN IN THE World — Chili and its Resources — Its Rivers and Mountains — Santiago and ITS Beauties — A Recipe for Getting Through Time. eORONEL is situated at tlie north-eastern end of Arauco Bay, and, like Lota, is mainly dependent upon its coal supply. The mines here principally belong to the Pach- uco Company, and, if necessary, as much as 800 tons, can be furnished alongside any ship in the bay in the space of 12 hours. At Lota the mines chiefly belong to a Madame Cousino — who is state'l to be the richest woman in the world. She has a magnificent chateau, standing in the midst of lovely grounds over- looking Lota Harbour, but she seldom resides there, and for the last four years has lived in Paris. The house stands on the summit of a bluff entirely covered with trees and flowers right down to the water's edge, and is laid out with — 59 - miles of paths winding capriciously up and down, over bridges, and along terracoi-) overlooking the sea, and through gi'ottoes and passages radiant with splendid specimens of Lapageria Roses, witli which the Chilian ladies decorate themselves vvith much taste. When Sir Thomas and Lady Brassey touched here, some few years since, dur- ing their voyage in the "Sunbeam," Madame Cousino entertained them on a very lavish scale. Five pits are now being worked by the ' )Usino Company, witVi a daily output of from 800 to 1,000 tuns, and an annual production of over 200,000 tons. Nearly 2,000 miners are em- ployed, who work 12 hours a day, and earn from 80 cents to $1.75, Chilian paper currency. The workmen are supplied witli free lodging and water on the estate. It is a curious sight to see the miners walking home in the evening, after nighvfall, in Indian file, with lamps in their caps burning brightly, and somewhat resembling fire- flies. This is a very' valuable property, and I believe the clear profits for the year 1889 were $1,200,000! There are also smelting works,, brick works, and glass works in connection with the establishment, and altogether employment is given to some 3,000 people. About 15 miles inland is the City of Concep- ' I- 1 f'ii'i; ■^.11 — 60 — tion, 8v thriving and prosperous town Some of the valleys at the back of the town are very fer- tile, producing grain of all kinds in abundance Earthquakes are, however, very common in this region, and must naturally affect the general prosperity of the country. I have before alluded to the terrible earthquake which took place in 1835. Its effects were particularly ruinous in Conception. About half an hour after the sliock — the sea havingr retired so much that vessels which had boen lying in 7 fathoms of water were aground, and every rock and shcjal in the bay were visible — an enormous wave was seen forcing its way througli tlie western passage which separates the adjacent island of Quinquina from the mainland. This terrific swell swept the steep shores of everything moveable within 30 feet (vertically) from high water mark, and then ruslied back again in a torrent whicli carried everything within its reach out to sea, leaving the vessels again aground. A second wave, and then a third, apparently larger than eitlier of the two former, completed tlie ruin. Earth and water trembled, and then exhaustion ap- jjeared to follow these mighty efforts. This eartluiuake was felt in all places between Chiloe Island and Copiapo, an area of 700 by 400 miles. One of the permanent effects of the earthcpiake 61 esse Is tvater the seen has been to raise the level of the land. The island of Santa Maria was raised fully 9 feet. For a great distance along the Chilian Coast there are numerous small islands, and behind rise that lofty range of mountains called the Andes. Their general elevation is from 12,000 to 14,000 feet, but many have an altitude of over 22,000 feet. The highest point, Aconcagua, is 22,426 feet — equal to 4^ miles — and its height is only exceeded by Mount Everest, in the Hima- layas, which is 5| miles high. The capital of Chili is Santiago, a very beautiful town, but Valparaiso is the largest place, and the principal port. I am told that at Santiago may be seen some of the most perfect specimens of beauty for which Spanish women are so famous. These ladies take more pains, if possible, with their hands than with their faces. There is no end of the tricks to which they re- sort to render this organ delicate and beautiful. Some of these devices must noh only be painful, but are exceedingly ridiculous. For instance, I have heard of some of them sleeping every night with gloved hands, lined with a kind of salve or pomade, tied up to the bedposts Ijy pulleys, hoping by th^t means to render them pale and delicate. The rivers of Chili are very unimportant. I f — 62 — In the middle and southern provinces they are small, though numerous, but the northern part of the country is scarcely watered by any, and from the Mapu to Atacama, a distance of about 1,000 miles, all the streams and rivers together would not make so considerable a body of water as that with which the Rhone enteres the Lake of Geneva, or as that of the Thames at Staines. They are quite useless for navigation, but are serviceable for the purpose of irrigation. From this cause the southern provinces are those de- voted to agricultural industry — cattle breeding and the raising of grain being the chief employ- ment. In tlie northern parts mining is the most important commercial pursuit, and for which Chili is best known. Speaking generally, I consider Chili, with its vast mineral wealth, and exceedingly healthy climate, one of the finest countries in the world, and with a proper administration (which alas is sadly defectiv^e) would be a very desirable place to settle in. The country, however, is always, more or less, in a revolutionary state, and, as will be gathered later on, we had happened to arrive just as another of these outbreaks was connnenc- ing. Chili, like most Spanish countries, is also re- markable for the number of lotteries which are — 63 — continually taking place, and many instances are cited of poor and ()l)scure individuals being sud- denly raised to wealth by these channels. For my part, however, I consider them as incentive to the pernicious spirit of gambling. In England, as my readers are no doubt aware, all lotteries are abolished — with perhaps the exception of matriiiiorty! From the general appearance of affairs it was evident we should be delayed here some days, and how to get through the time was now a mat- ter for consideration. A certain philosopher, on being asked the best way of doing so, replied, "Eat every difij" — an answer which showed him to be of a very gluttcmous dispositicm. fffi^i' l CHAPTER XII. The Chilian REVoLirnoN — Its Origin — "The Esmeralda" (not Victor Hugo's) but nevertheless " victorious " — bombard- ment of coronel and exciting scenes. THE next morning (Friday) the Captain of a neighbouring ship calied upon us, and from him we ascertained the cause of the delay. It appear? that a revohition had broken out in consequence of President Bahnaceda's threat to abolish the navy, a course the latter strongly objected to. He however persisted, and as they declined to yield to his demands, he had declared them as rebels. The army had taken the Presi- dent's side, and consequently a civil war was imminent. The navy had despatched one of their men of war, the "Esmeralda," to cruise round Coronel and Lota, with a view of pre- venting any communication or business trans- actions taking place between those on shoi'e and the ships at anchor, and tlyis coaling was practi- cally impossible. — 65 — I Ollfc ireafc iJiey ired •esi- ^vas of lise re- is- tid fci- The Government's action instead of bringing the navy to submission, incited them to take active steps in the direction of a civil war. I./)ans were floated, and $12,000,000 of gold taken aboard the warships. Any Chilian vessel, large or small, which ventured from shore was .seized, and relieved of her cargo, and then detained in an adjoining bay held by one of the warships. On the afternoon of the same day, the " Esmeralda " dropped anclior close by us, and we had a good view of her. One or two lighters were in the act of discharging coal, and it was very amusing to see the excitement amongst the labourers when the " Esmeralda " was seen approaching, for if they happened to be caught they would be pressed into the naval service, and the coal would also l)e confiscated. On the 17th (Saturday), having seen the man- of-war depart, we ventured on shore for a few hours, and arranged with the coaling agents to commence loading our ship the following day, if possible, as the delay was becoming serious. There were several English residents in the town, and n" nuking the acquaintance of some, we were very hospitably received. Everyone seemed in a state of great excitement, though almost afraid to open their mouths to express any opinion on — 66 the crisis, as it appeared the soldiers and otlier officials had been arresting numbers of persons on the slightest pretext. Before we could arrange for our coaling to commence, our Captain was required by the authorities to give bonds to the extent of $14,000 that he would neither sell nor give up any part of her cargo or provisions to the rebels. The streets are not paved, and are very dusty, and with the exception of a clock tower in tlie centre of a small public garden, the only building worth mentioning in the town is the railway station. The line is only a short one connecting Conception on the one side with Lota on the other. It is worked by an English Company. Having called on the British Consul, and made a few purchases, we returneJi to the vessel. We took advantage of the delay by re-paint- ing the ship, and in one or two respects changed the colour, a circumstance which it seems caused some anxiety to the " Esmeralda," and occasioned us a certain amount of annoyance, as will be gathered as my narrative proceeds. By this time several ships had arrived in the bay, all for the purpose of coaling, including the Pacific Mail Boat "Galicia," bound for Valparaiso. We now heard that yesterday the " Esmeralda had captured two Chilian vessels just outside the - 67 I the the liso. da tlie 'bay, which were laden with coal, and had promptly dismantled them. The next day (the 18th, Sunday,) our coaling commenced. We had arranged for 400 tons to be delivered, hut had only succeeded in getting about 70 tons on board, when the demon "Esmer- alda" wajj again seen steaming at full speed into the harbour. This was exceedingly provoking, but it was useless to endeavour to get the labour- ers to proceed. The same excitement and con- fusion again prevailed; off' they rushed pell mell into the lighters, rowing for dear life to the shore, and fortunately reaching it in time. An unlucky fisherman, however, pursuing his calling, was not so fortunate, for he was captured. We after- wards ascertained, however, that he was a naval * spy, who had been on shoie, and who had as- sumed a fisherman's disguise. He had evidently brought news of sonie importance, for after he liad been on board the "Esmeralda" for a short time, their band 'struck up the Naticmal anthem,- the tars manned the rigging, and loud cheering ensued. This was immediately it^sponded to by the soldiers on shore firinp several shots at the man-of-war's boat while she wa,s on her way to the Pacific Mail boat. The next moment we heard the thunder of a long gun, and the whiz- zing of projectiles unpleasantly near us, and we I ■- " J IP >i — 68 — accordingly raised our anchor and sought a more sheltered position. An excited enthusiast in the railway station also added to the noise and con- fusion by firing several shots in the direction of the man-of-war, needless to say, however, doing no damage to her, but on the contrary jeopardis- ing the lives of those people who happened to be near him. The utmost disorder now prevailed— the handful of soldiers on the pier hoisted the signals of war, and began ftring at the "Esmer- alda" She was, however, out of range. This was followed by a volley from the sharp shooters on the "Esmeralda," and two soldiers were killed on the pier. The remainder beat a hasty retreat into the town, and left the pier to take care of itself. I suppose however it is natural for sol- diers of the line to show a disposition to hook it The windows of the railway station were broken and soon afterwards a shell struck it, and ex- ploded in the chief cashier's room, l)ut fortunate- ly it was deserted at the time. The people on shore could now be seen run- ning away from the town in all directions, and soon the neighbouring hills were covered with them. A little knot. of English residents had congregated at the back of the British Consul's office, and it was evident that everyone was seri- ously alarmed at the aspect matters had assumed. — 69 — XI, ^lrlipv^ on the shore had no It ,vas fortunate t^e -' ;--J ^_ ^, .-ere still . very big guns, for had it been ^ ,.„,aa" Jh too near ^ ^« P^XT.ig guns, and .team- -^ now seen « -^f^^^^^? I railway bridge ing away m the ^^'^J.^ ^^^^^ evidently with »bout half a nule out of the tow ^^ the intention ot\'^«f ^y^-g^ter Coronel and railway commumcation ^^'^^^^^ ,,,,ige. but ■ Lota. Sl^« fi'-«^^ ^'^"'^"ittTv nexperienced, for hev gunners were ^^'^^f. J apparently she was somewhat dihgi su, direction of afterwards "^emned away ^^^^ ^^^^^^ Lota. We heard her discharge ^^^^^ ''-- ^".^ =i::r;it;rionei; but with- at a passing tui n tiom ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^ t^^e outinanaging to hvt . ^^^^ ^ ^,^ ,,,.y mhabitants of Corone ^^^^ ^^^,,,^„ tnfling-3 persons kdlej and ^^.^^^ •^-PP-f !7" thtsrni'evening. the "Esmeral- About 5 oclock^e^^ ^^ ^^^_^,^ le da" was seen steaming, ^^^^^ ,.e. returned to their homes, -^ Pe-^^,,,, , ,„ost stored for the *"- being^ ^^^^ ^^^,^^.^„,, „f a exciting day^ li ^^^ ,\,„all afiair can be «. bombardment 1 J ^ effect of relieving the termed, ^^\'l^''^l' „„e was beginning to feel monotony which eyeiy o after such a long tune at sea. CHAPTER XIII. Coaling under Difficulties — An Invitation TO Breakfast — " Chili ". Weather — A Chapter on Paradoxes — Views on Elec- tric Light — A Curious Coincidence. ON Monday, the 19th, the lighters came alongside early, and coaling proceeded all day without iirterruption. This' was continued on the 20th, when about 10 o'clock the " Esmeralda " again appeared in sight, but she steamed into Lota, and our coaling proceeded. We went out to breakfast this morning on board the " Gulf of Guinea," where we were very kindly received by the commander Captain Livingstone. We afterwards all went on shore again for a few hours, and inspected the damage done to the houses, etc., by the "Esmeralda's" guns, but there was very little harm done. The weather was very fine and warm, but chilly. Yes, reader, however paradoxical this may seem, it is nevertheless correct. I see, however, the printer has made a mistake in the spelling. It should have been " Chili." (( - 71 - but he Talking of paradoxes, — these formed tlie subject of after dinner conversation one evening, and as I heard one or two which seemed to be original, I have ventured to jot them down for the benefit of my readers. The following is an apparently simple^ one, but it is astonishing what a very simple rjuery will sometimes catch a wise man napping: — "A snail, climbing a post 20 feet high, ascends five feet every day, and slips down four feet every night. How long ^^ ill the snail take to reach the top ? " . Or another: — * "A wise man, having a window one yard high and one yard wide, and requiring more light, enlarged the window to twice its former size; yet the window was still only one yard high and one yard high." How was this done? The latter is a catch question in geometry. The window, being diamond shaped in the first instance, and afterwards made square, whilst as as regards the former, perhaps it is scarcely .nec- essary seriously to point out that the answer is not 20 days, but 10, since the snail, wlio gains one foot each day for 15 days, climbs on the 16th day to the top of the pole, and there remains. The following was once asked at a university wine party by a well-known senior wrangler: I — 72 — "Suppose three snakes, each of which is swallowng each other by the tail, so that the three form a circle. Then, as the swallowing process continues, the circle evidently grows smaller. Now, if they thus continue to swallow each other, what will eventually become of the snakes?" Of course it is clear that either the swallowing process must stop somewhere, or that the snakes will vanish down each others tliroats. At what point then will the swallowing cease? As far as I know this puzzle has nevei* bejii solved, and any ingenious reader who can form a solution of it is invited to communicate with the author. One more, and I have done: "A train starts daily from San Francisco to New York, and one daily from New York to San Francisco, the journey taking (say) 7 days. How many trains will a traveller meet in Jour- neying from San Francisco to New York?" It appears obvious at the first glance that the trav- eller must meet seven trains, and this is the answer which will be given by most people to whom the questicm is new. . The fact is over- looked that every day throughout the journey a fresh train is starting from the other end, while there are seven on the way to begin with. The traveller will therefore not meet seven trains, but fourteen. - 73 — The "EHineralda" could now ha dimly seen steaming out to sea, but she was using her elec- tric search lights very vigorously. What a splendid light these throw. I see it is becoming used more and more eveiy day in ordinary pas- senger ships, although T have heard objections raised to it by several ship ca[)tains and others as causing too mucli t^]i\\v. and dazzling the visi(m. I dont know what particular system is used for ships, but should fancy Sieiiien.s as being the most appropriate. I had almost forgotten to mention a curious coincidence, i e., that Captain W and his wife (my fellow passengers) had actually booked their passage in the sailing ship "Archer," but altered their minds for the same reason as my- self, and now we had each selected this particu- lar ship in substitution, although there were the choice of several other routes to travel by. After a game of Ludo, (now re-named Lota, as a memento of our eventful visit), I turned in early with a view of getting a quiet night's rest, as we expected to be on the move again to-mor- row, if possible. ^^m: CHAPTER XIV. 31 MIlit I Our Troubles not yet Over — We are Chased BY^ A Man-of-War — A Narrow Squeak- Further Particulars of the Revolu- tion — Full Speed Ahead Once More. /^\N We'lncsdMy nioriiinjnr, the 21st, after a \ I week's delay, we tinislied our coalin*^^ anad weather, (which afterwards turned out to he an error on her part, as she meant to have said, "heave to innnediately.") We, however^ proceediid on oui* way, when approaching nearer she discltarget, lie was going to be pressed into the Chilian navy. Our engines were now stopped, and the "Esmeralda" steamed I'ound w.. ler (jur lee, and launched her lM.)at contaijiing a lieutenant and four marines, armed to the — 76 — teeth. He l^oankMl uh and we proined the opposition party on shore, and accompanied by jta- other deserter was supposed to be escaping m our vessel ! He also statef the story m that their spies at Coronel ha- tain on board, and ovir unassuniintr and innocent passenger, Ca[)tain W , was supposed to he one of the deserters they were in searc!) of! The lieutenant now returned to his boat, )iav- in^- previf)usly made an ample apolo^ for thi' delay and inconvenience they had occasioned. , Whilst the lieutenant was ch)seted with our Captain, the "Esmeralda" drew closer to ^^s, hiu\ several officers on the bridf^e scanrnMl uh very narrosvly, evidently being sanguine they were on the right track. 81ie drew perilously near, although there was a heavy sea running, anr till' I our i, hiu\ wry H'i' oil IK'Hl*, \ tho refei'- witli slic y ♦'■^- shij) 'ould ins a I hv- had ow.s otli- illto, mds well." The " Esmenilda " t(X)k up !).er Utat, and steainoLst,s anff again in 1684, he having lived three yeai*** there solitarily upon the goats introduced there by 81 — Fernandez. In 170M Caj)tiiin Holers touduMl here, and found tlie well-known hero, Alexander Selkirk, who hay the ship "Ciii(|uePorts"overfouryearsj)reviously. Selkirk gave an account of his sojourn to Daniel Defoe, in order to prepare it for tiie press, and frnm tho ideas there given the excellent romance of lioliin- son Crusoe w»us founded. In 1819 the Chilian Government formed it into a penal colony, but it was not kept uj) on account of the expense. An Austrian officer, Baron Von llodth, has heen a resident of the island for the past 15 years, with a small colony of natives, and Euio- pean desertei*s" from civilization. 'I'hey only communicate with the world once a year, wheii they dispatch a tine yacht to Valparaiso for supplies. The next evening, about 8 o'clock, we passed between the islands of St. And>rose and St» Felix, situated about 500 miles west of Copia[)o in Chili, and are only visited for the purpose of fishing and procuring water. They are 1 1 miles apart. A remarkable rock, very much resemb- ling the Bass Rock at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, lies oft' the east end of St. Ambrose^ and a small rugged conical shaped rock to the westward. — 82 — Through the west part of the Bjiss is a re- markable fissure, leaving a cavity through at the water line, ^nd about 20 feet high, shaped like a triangle. St. Felix consists of two islands, connected by a reef, and about IJ miles to the north is a re- markable islet, which, from its similarity in shape, has been named Peterborough Cathedral, and which, from most points of view, resend)k's a ship under sail. These islands all appear to be volcanic, and are without an appearance of verdure. The next day we again entered the tropics. It was one of those days when existence seems most full of delight, and when the human frame is most susceptible of the beauty and gi*andeur of nature. Not the least charm al)out our long voyage was the pure and refreshing daily sea water bath; although, strange to say, sea-faring men, as a rule, prefer a bath of fresh water. There was somebody once who, having a little spare time on his hands, calculated the exact amount of common salt there was in all the oceans, and who proved it satisfactorily to be 3,051,342 cubic geographical miles, or about five times more than the mass of the Alps, and only one third less than that of the Himalayas! Just fancy that now, and at Brighton they only — K3 — a re- it the like a iid hy a re- y in edi-al, mbles to l>e U of loil^r I charge two shilling per hetuJ for a hot sea )>ath — of course yon can wash lower down than your head without extra cliarge, if you think it neces- sary ! This morning, wliilst pumping the water into the bath, I pumped up a young octopus, but did not keep him long »is he soon showed signs of exhaustion. The octopus, I believe, feeds upon other small shell fish, and its greatest enennes are the dog fish and the ray. This probably accounts for its legs rle, than the one T witnessed in the Atlantic, and which I have before referred to. The s\ni was yet an hour alx>ve the horizon, and the sea like a lake of molten gold. The colour of the sky nearest the sun of a pale green, with two or three buj'nished streaks of vapour, so thin, you could almost catch the sky through them, and fixed, as it were, in this gorgeous frame. The sun ijow hovered over the horizcm, quivered for an instant, and then sank — gradually the surrounding clouds seemed suffused with a rosy light, turning afterwards t-o a bright violet, and then fading into purple — but the glory of the sunset long lingered in the west, whilst in the east the moon, at full, rose to com- plete the beauty of the picture. — 84 — On the 27th, a hird called the " Booby " flew on the top of our awning on the salcHm deck, but in tryin<^ to catcli him. he just eluded us. These birds somewhat lesembUi an Albatross, and are so stupid that they fretpiently alight on the deck of a ship, an 5 Ives brojul, th(^ hi<(host point Injing 4,700 f<»et alM)ve the level of the sea. The constitution of the whole is volcanic, and there are supposed to he in all the islands at least 2,000 craters. These are of two kinds, one consisting of scoriae and lava, and tHfe other of finely stratified volcanic sandstone. Considering these islands are placed directly under the etjuator, the climate is far from being excesssivoly hot, a circumstances chiefly owing to the singularly low temperature of the surroun:^^^ "^nS V^"' ^U 4- 4 ^»:^ ^ — 86 — the most interesting features of the Pacific Ocean. Whether they are considered in the physical formation so distinct' to the low coral groups which dot this vast expanse of waters ; the strong and devious currents which surround them, vary- ing so much from other portions of the great ocean — the active volcanic agency everywhere visible — their position on the equator, or their importance to shipping for the supplies they afford — these islands (sometimes called the *' Tortoise Archipelago ") must be evident as one of the most interesting features of the globe. A burst of hearty laughter now greets my ears, which I find is caused by some one recalling the fun we had the last time we crossed the equator. A good hearty laugh does one good. To laugh heartily and musically is, I think, one of the most enchanting of God's blessings. Laughter and tears are, however, so closely allied, that one often is puzzled to know where sorrow ends and laughter begins^ Once at a funeral I observed a gentleman who was weeping copiously, pull off his wig with his hat, and a deep mourner giggling at it ! ^I? CHAPTER XVI. The DoLDRUlvis — Turtle — The Boatswain Bird — Rolls for Breakfast — A White Squall — Experiments on Calming the Waves — Also a Wife — Clipperton Is- land. THE next day, the 3rd, we got into the Doldrums, and there was absolutely not a^ ripple on the ocean. Numbers of turtle, fast asleep, floated close by us, and in the absence of a proper net, we endeavoured to catch some with the hammock, but unfortunately without success. If we had been able to stop and lower a boat, we could have caught plenty. A bird, called the "Boatswain Bird," now fell stunned on the deck. It flew into the thick heavy smoke from our funnel, and was blinded by it. We did not keep him however, for he seemed so miserable, and after a short time we threw him overboard, and he went away at a tremendous pace, followed by several others who had been hovering around* the ship, and who- — 88 — were probably anxious to overtake him to hear the result of his adventures. This bird has a long white beak, something like the albatross, but the curious feature of it is a long red quill protruding for some distance at tTie end of its tail. This was another beautiful evening, and I re- mained on deck until a late hour meditating on the beautiful works of nature. The stars studded the heavens, so I thought I might appropriately study the stars. The following day we emerged from the dol- drums, and had the benefit of the north-east trade winds, but they set in very strong, and made our boat very lively. To keep in unison with the ship, our cook sent us some new "rolls" for breakfai-jt. In the afternoon we experienced one of those squalls so often found in the region of the equator. A white mist began to curl above the horizon — the barometer fell so low, T thought it would break — the blueness of the sky seemed suddenly to fade and become a dingy gi*ey color, and the swell on the ocean covered the waves with a scurfy foam. The rain now came down in torrents but the squall soon died away, the heavens again became bright, and though the waves were still tumultuous, no evidence of the storm was visible with the ex- ception of the agitated state of the ocean. In — 89 these times of science and invention, I shall not be surprised, one of these days, to hear of a^ won- derful discovery for breaking the force of the ocean waves. I recollect once hearing that a Commissioner of a certain royal institute had ex- perimented on a portion of the North Sea by pouring several gallons of oil upon the restless waves, without, however, having the effect of diminishing their motion. On the contrary these experimentalists, beginning to feel very ill, put back, and reported that the conclusion they had arrived at was that when anyone talked of calm- ing the waves with oil, it was merely meant as a "poetical embellishment!" It leminds me of a story I once heard of an American gentleman, with a wife whose temper was like unto the fury of a tempest. One day, having taken home a tin of petroleum, he set it down on the hob in her presence, and went for a stroll. When his friends saw him a few days afterwards, he wore mourn- ing! He must have possessed a good deal of courage, but there are some people who have more than others — men who marry twice, for instance! On the 5th inst. we passed by Clipperton Island, which is nothing more than a very dan- gerous rock in the middle of the Pacific, and, with the shoals, is about three miles in length. 1 mi 4 t . ill., ;■ .J; ' — 90 -- No living trees can be seen, but the whole island is covered with gannet, boobies and pelicans. Its colour is very dark, and nearly black, and in its vicinity sharks, turtles, and porpoise are often seen in great numbers. I remarked to one of our officers, on seeing a large shark go by, "How would you feel if one of those brutes got hold of you?" "Rather down in the mouth," he replied, which struck me as being very much to the point. / CHAPTER XVII. A Strong Current Impedes Our Progress — The Revilla Gigedo Islands — Again in Sight of Land — An Attack oj> Indi- gestion AND ITS CONSEQUENCES^GU ADA- LOUPE — The Californian Islands — Off San Francisco. ill . I ■■■ ■ ? ON the 6th we encountered a very strong current from the north-west, which im- peded our progress as much as twenty- four miles a day, and we continued to feel the force of it, more or less, for the remainder of our journey. On the 9th we passed the Eevilla Gigedo- Islands, the largest of which, Socorro, is stated to be thirty miles in extent. The name was given by Colnett in 1793, out of compliment to the Viceroy of Mexico, from whom he had received much kindness and civility. Socorro- is lofty, the highest peak being about 2,000 feet iibove the sea level, and it can be discerned sixty miles distant. It is in a great measure covered with brushwood, intermixed with low III! ll jl '4\ 'iIrI isir 1 — 92 — prickly pear trees. Although they have not recently given evidence of volcanic origin, there is little doubt that the whole of this group of islets originated from that source. Off the north and north-west coast of Socorro there are some detached rocks, and some also extend off the south shore, which is a high bold coast. A few miles north-west of Socori'o is San Benedicto Island. Our ship passed between the two. This island is about six miles long, and has a barren appearance, with little or no vegetation. Its surface is uneven, and. is sometimes described as romantic, having the appearance of two divstinct islets when seen at a distance of nine to ten miles. On the 10th we were again within sight of land (the first time since leaving Coronel), this being Cape St. Lucas, the southernmost point of Lower California. An attack of " bad colds " seemed now to pervade the ship. No one seemed to escape, in fact, wn all appeared to be (ca) tarred with the same brush. About this time too I had a very severe attack of indigestion, causing horrible " nightmares " which seemed to thrill one with their reality. By-the-bye what absurd and idiotic phantsisies these dreams seem to develop; mine was something like the following: — 93 ~ First I dream't the "King" of Chili Captured me in Piccadilly, And for payment of a Bill, he Threatened he would take my life ; Then I thought his only daughter Saved me tr om a dreadful slaughter, Treated me to gin and water, And eventually 'came my wife. Then T dream't that Mr. Goschen, In the House caused great commotion, For like inmates of the ocean * He appeared with tail and fins ; Then he turned into a sailor. Like you see on board a whaler. Whilst Parnell, dressed like a gaoler, Locked himself up for his sins. Then 1 dream't that Julius Caesar, Called out "Back her, stop her, ease her!* Then there rose a sudden breezer, And the ship was nearly wrecked ; Then a blow, a push, a shaking. All my drowsy senses waking, Proved that last night I'd been taking Too much lobster, I expect ! Moral — Beware of lobster suppers. On the 10th we passed (though at some dis- tance) the Alijos Rocks, a dangerous group, lying off the coast of California, the southernmost and largest rock being about 110 feet high. We were favoured with beautiful warm days, and yet bracing, but the evenings were cold, and our great coats proved of service. On the 12th we passed close to the Island o£ !» 11 IP il — 94 — Ouadaloupe. This island is 15 miles long by 5 "broad, and a chain of hills extend throughout the interior, the highest being nearly 3,500 feet high. Off the south end are two rocky islets, at some distance from the shore. The island is quite rocky and barren, and affords very little susten- ance for anything except goats. There were two schooners on the south side, bound northwards, and these were the first vessels we had seen since leaving Coronel, 22 days ago. On the 13th the weather became much colder, and with a strong head wind and current, we did not make much progress. We saw shoals of grampus, or small whales, in the afternoon. At midnight we passed well to the west of a rather dangerous shoal, called Cortez Bank, which is about 15 m'les in extent. We were now abreast of San Diego, which, with perhaps the exception of San Francisco, is said to possess the finest har- l)our on the Pacific Coast, as it is subject to less swells, rain, fog and haze, Jxud the entrance is less difficult to make and enter on that account. ' At 10 a.m. the next day, we passed the island of San Nicolas, 8 miles long and 4 broad. Its sides are bold and precipitous, and composed of coarse sandstone. At midday we passed the islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and San Miguel. The former is the largest of the Cali- by 5 )ut the t high, t some quite usten- re two wards, n since colder, , we did oals of a. At rather hich is abreast ception ?st har- to less J is less t. * island d. Its 3sed of 3d the d San e Cali- — 95 — fornian Islands, and lies about 20 miles from the coast. It is about 25 miles long, and its greatest elevation is 2,400 feet above the sea. On the lower parts of the surface grass is abundant, and for some years has sustained a flock of sheep so considerable that 15,000 to 20,000 head have been taken from it annually. Santa Rosa is eighteen miles in length, with a bold outline, but it is not so high as Santa Cruz. The hills are undulating, and covered with coarse grass and bushes. San Miguel, the westernmost of the Cali- fornian Islands, is six miles long, and numerous small rocks are in its vicinity, although there is plenty of deep wat^r. At 4 o'clock we were abreast Point Conception, and here the wind suddenly veered round to the south-west, and a strong gale soon afterwards sprung up, which lasted several hours. At mid-day on the 15th we were abreast San Francisco, which I suppose can safely be described as the " Western * Metropolis " of the United States. Its geographical position and size, its depth of water, noble entrance, and bold shores, the Sacramento and tributaries draining the rich agricultural valleys and auriferous slopes of the Sierra Nevada, together with the prosperous city on its shores, and the salubrity f — 96 — of its climate, have combined to make San Francisco emphatically the port of the Pacific. A small brigantine bound to that city, here passed us close to, and the heavy cross sea caused her to pitch about tremendously. At midnight we made the light on Point Arena, and the coast line for several miles beyond this presents a low shore, with sand beach, changing suddenly to a straight high bluff shore, with a few trees, and bav^ked by hills 2,000 feet high, covered to their summits with wood. The morning of the 16th broke fine and bright, and by 11 a.m. we were abreast of Cape Mendocino. Here the range of hills from the southward appear to meet a range coming from the eastward, the junction resulting in a moun- tainous headland about 3,000 feet in height, the tops of which were covered with snow, and re- minded me somewhat of the scenery in the Straits of Magellan, though here the verdure was much softer and brighter. It was now much colder, and we had a fire lighted in the saloon for the first time since leaving England, nearly three months ago. At midday we entered Humboldt Bay, nine miles across. Close hy are the towns of Hum- boldt (with its port Ojud military station) and Eureka, a thriving town. — 97 - San Ific. \ here Caused Point miles sand 1 bluff 2,000 ood. and Cape n tlie \ from moun- it, the id re- 1 the rdure much aloon early nine fum- and In the afternoon we passed Trinidad Bay ajid ,Head, the latter 880 feet hi^h, and covered with a thick, low undergrowth of scrub brushes. The town lies round the roadstead, to the west, and the land is very rich and well adapted for agri- culture. At midnight we were abreast of Orescent Bay, which is said to be a very dan;"brous road- stead, ■]. account of the numerous shoah and rocka in its vicinity. The mount; ins in tlie background present a magnificent wight. The largest. Mount Shaste, over 14,000 feet high, is always covered with snow, and its conical shape indicates its volcanic character, although no crater is visible. ' At 6 a.m. on the 17th we passed Port Orford, and in this neighbourhood are found inunense quantities of the largest and finest white cedar on the coast. Northward of Cape Orford (some- times called Cape Blanco) the nature and ap- pearance of the coast assumes a marked change. Long reaches of low white sand beach occur, broken by bold, rocky headlands, and present a light green appearance, being covered with fern, grass and bushes. At 10 p.m. we passed Cape Foulweather, about 800 feet high, so named by Cook from the exceedingly bad weather he met with soon after- m I m — 98 ~ wards. It seems to have kept up its reputation too, for we here experienced heavy and frequents southwest squalls. A little farther on is Cape Lookout, very high and bluff, and terminating abruptly in the sea. About two miles distant from it rise three large rocks, which are very re- markable from the great resemblance they bear to each other. The middle one has an archway perforated in its centre, through w^hich the sea can be plainly discerned. These rocks some- times go by the name of the Three Brothers. De^ ii fi m u Ij n 'If i [ :u CHAPTER XVIII. Destruution Island — Cape Flattery — We Arrive at Our Destination — On the Benefits and Healthfulness of the Voyage — A Few Remarks on British Columbia. ON the 18th, at 7 a.m., we passed Cape Tillamook, the face of which is much broken, and formed principally of yellow clay, presenting a bright appearance in the sun- light. It is said that at 1,200 feet above the sea level occurs a stratum of white earth, used by the Indians as paint, and that the hill sides slip away in masses of 50 to 100 acres at a time. At 9 a.m. we passed Capo Disappointment which presents a geological formation not before met with on the seaboard, being composed of horizontal columnar basalt, rising to an ele- vation of nearly 300 feet. A little further on the Columbia River enters the ocean. The snow covered peak of Mount St. Helens is seen in the distance, although 75 miles inland, and is esti- iS, ' — 100 — mated to be 18,500 feet high. It is volcanic, and occasionally discharges volumes of smoke. At 2 p.m. the wind veered round to the north west, and we were deluged with heavy rain and sleet. A steamer passed close to us, pitching violently, which we made out to be the steamer from Victoria to San Francisco. At 5 p.m. we passed well to the westward of Destruction Island, situated about four miles from the coast. It is about 75 feet high, flat on the top, and covered with grass, but destitute of trees. It received its name from Captain Berkeley, who in 1787 sent a long boat from King George's Sound, to explore as far south as latitude 47°. The crew of their smaller boat entered a shallow river, and rowed up some distance, when they were attacked and all murdered by the Indians. At 10.30 p.m. we sighted Cape Flattery, and soon afterwards passed the Tatoosh Islands. These small islands, connected by reefs, are quite flat-topped, and without trees. From the top of one of them appears a leaning rocky column, about 140 feet high, and goes by the name of " Fuca s Pillar." At midnight we rounded Cape Flattery in a blinding snowstorm. It did not last long, how- ever, and soon afterwards -the moon shining • V I — 101 — brightly, we entered the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and the last stage of our long journey. Cape Flattery presents a bold rugged surface, and the highest part is about 2,000 feet high. It appears to be cut up by gorges, and covered with a dense growth of fir. Passing the Race Islands at 7 a.m. on the 19th February, we soon afterwards slowly steamed into Esquimalt Harbour, and dropped anchor there soon after 9 a.m. The weather was very cold, and it was not the choicest season of the year to enter a new country, but the first impressions of Victoria and its surroundings, as seen from the deck of our steamer, were certainly favourable. I should here like to make a few remarks as regards the good effects to be obtained from a- sea voyage similar to the one I have just com- pleted. To those who are content with the gentle ex- citement to be got in the course of an ocean voyage, and who wish for the bracing effects of the sea, without the disturbing elements of fre- quently going into port and taking in relays of new passengers, the route I came by could not well be improved upon. Over and above the pleasure that usually arises from contemplating the ever varying moods of the surface of the III } J!" iCM f'-^ifn N. VV. History Dept. PnOVMN'-^IAL LIBRARY VICTORIA, B. C. i i H .. i — ice- ocean, of the enjoyment of a bright atmosphere and the purest air, there are certain persons for whom a holiday at sea is peculiarly suited. To anyone who is what is termed " run down," either by muscular fatigue, long office hours, or pro-, longed study, the sea-holiday affords the surest and quickest means of restoring their vital pow- ers. The fresh sea breeze has all the invigorat- ing quab**.ies of mountain air, whilst the deck promenade is better calculated to bring back the flush of health than the exertion of fatiguing^ ascents. ' The next day, the 20th, we landed at Esqui- malt, which is a charmingly situated and pic- turesque suburb of Victoria. This is the North Pacific Naval Station of Her Majesty's Fleet, and in the summer, there are generally several vessels of the squadron lying here. There is an excellent dry dock and government works, and the harbor is a perfectly land-locked refuge, and easy of access for vessels of the deepest draught. From Esquimalt we took the electric tramcai* to Vic- toria, four miles distant, the journey occupying only twenty minutes. Victoria, the Capital of British Columbia, is located on the southern extremity of Vancouver Island, and has a population of about 15,000^ principally Europeans. It is a wealthy and pros- perous canno ter. south babn; some and inth — 103 — perous city, and the leavst practical observer cannot fail to note its essentially English charac^ ter. It very much resembles a town in the south of England, not only on account of its balmy and salubrious climate, but by its hand- some private residences, and well kept grounds and gardens. It is a favorite winter resort, and in the summer is filled with tourists. From the Beacon Hill Public Park a charm- ing view across the Straits of Fuca is obtained; the snow-capped Olympic Mountains on the American side rising to a gi-eat height, and the white cone of Mount Baker standing out con- spicuously. The winters arc short and not severe,, and there is usually a long dry summer. Victoria is the headquarters of the salmon and fur trades, and with all these advantages it is rapidly increasing in size. The stieets are well laid out, and the numerous buildings, blocks and warehouses, and those in course of erection, testify to the increasing prosperity of the town. Electric tramcars traverse the principal streets, and a complete system of sewerage is in course of construction, which will embrace the whole of the city area. The houses of the Provincial Parliament are nicely situated overlooking the harbour, and by the courtesy of the Mayor, Mr. Grant, I was \''m nl ill 111 1 / — 104 — shown over the new Municipal Buildings, and the Jubilee Hospital, which are a credit to the city. About seventy miles north of Victoria, and connected by rail, is.the rapidly increasing town of Nanaimo, where coal has been discovered in large quantities, and the mines give employment to a large number of men. The coal is said t^ be of superior quality, and most of tne principal towns on the Pacific Coast are supplied from these mines. The country between Nanaimo and Victoria is very picturesque, valley, river, lake, and mountain producing an attractive variety of scene. There are numerous thriving settlements along the line, and there is enough fishing and shooting to satisfy the keenest of sportsmen. After a few days in Victoria, I took the Canadian Pacific Navigation Company's boat to Vancouver, some ninety miles in a north-easterly direction, and the western terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Vancouver is situated on a peninsula, rising to an altitude of about 200 feet, with a gradual descent to the water's edge on either side, thus afibrding a most complete system of natural drainage. The harbour is one of the finest in the world, and is draugh comme what ( is sim But fi dense of w< grani 17,00 well operi tram place mins oper ofh bee moc W01 ofi are Pa C\ ar A ai hd he — 105 — And is always navigable for vessels of the deepest draught. The capacitj^ of the city for marine commerce can never be outgrown, no matter to what extent it reaches. The growth of the place is simply wonderful, and almost unparalleled. But five years back its site was covered with a dense forest, whilst now it possesses many miles of well laid out streets, with fine brick and granite buildings, and has a population of about 17,000. It is well-lifted by electricity, and a well organised system of electric tramcars is in operation along the principal streets. A new tram line is in course of formation between this place and the neighbouring City of New West- minster, some 12 miles distant, and when this is opened about June next, as expected, the value of land on and near the route must necessarily be of great value. There are fine hotels, with all modem conveniences, aiid an opera house which would do credit to many large cities in England of far longer standing. Three tine new steamers are now being built in England, for the Canadian Pacific Railway, to trade between this port and China and Japan — in fact one is now on the way, Slid is expected to arrive here about the end of April. A line direct to Australia and New Zeal- and is also under consideration. There is no doubt in my mind that in the near future this i I ill \ n ! 1 I t ! :" I 1 1 I- i ! i ! — 106- place wrill be the natural outlet, not only for the undeveloped resources of the country, biit for the products and manufactures of the eastern prov- inces. Whilst in Vancouver I made a flying visit to the adjoining City of New Westminster, and here again was much struck with the air of prosperity all around. This is the great river port of Brit- ish Columbia. It is situated on the Fraser River, which is the highway of water communi- cation ^or hundreds of miles in the interior. Here aie situated several of the Government buildings, both of the Province of British Col- umbia and also of the Dominion of Canada. Although its population is not half that of either Victoria or Vancouver, it is rapidly increasing, and in the near future will prove no mean rival to both. Its chief wealth is derived from its lumber and salmon industries. The farmers of the Fraser valley here dispose of the bulk of their produce, and purchase implements and other nec- essaries for their farms. Speaking generally, I feel sure that British Columbia has only to be known to attraxit attention. Its rich agricultural and grazing lands, its mineral wealth, lumber industries and fisheries, are capable of maintaining a very large population. Labour is in great demand, and well-pa the p< countr Ali betwe( for it, town Vij raitw it as the s^ V must cities and situ? the pop' mil pro wh th( ne m t€ — 107 — well-paid for, and there is an utter absence of the poverty so often met with in the old country. Although there is a certain amount of rivalry between some of the cities, I fail to see any cause for it, seeing that the future .prosperity of each town arises from a different source. Vancouver, being the terminus of the greatest railway in the world, only requires time to stamp it as the port of Western Canada, and to rival the size and prosperity of San Francisco. Victoria, the Capital, is fast increasing, and must continue to do so along with the other cities of the coast. Its old established financial and whplesalo houses, added to its beautiful situation and salubrious climate, will keep it to the fore in the struggle . for wealth and population. New Westminster has its fisheries, lumber mills, and the Fraser River trade, whilst in close proximity are the finest agricultural lands in the whole Dominion. Nanaimo also, with its fine seams of coal, and the rich farming lands surrounding it, must necessarily go ahead. In conclusion, I would strongly advise any of my readers in England, or elsewhere, who con- template settling in a new country, to visit ^.-•1 %: ._108 — British Columbia. To the man of means it offers a safe and well-paying investment for capital ; to the manufacturer a splendid field is open, and trades of every description are bound to flourish,, whilst innumerable channels are open to thf^ artizan and workingman, and labour is well remunerated. Here also the gentleman of leisure will find a genial climate and magnificent scenery, and the sportsman unlimited scope for his amusement. 1890. Dec. (( (( i( (( t( it << {( i( (( it (( (( '1 rs J; nd K ell 'of [nfe for ITINERARY OF THE VOYAGE. Dalo T.at. Long. West. Position. Days Run. Total Miles 1890. • Dec. 3 ;).' N 3-30 Liverpool sailed 12 no on. ' 4 52- N 5-30 Tuscar Licht-Ship . . . English Channel 190 ' 5 49- N 12-40 227 417 ♦ 6 46-50 N 14-22 W. Bay of Biscay. . . . Do. 200 617 * 7 43-32 N 15-34 204 821 ' S 39-56 N 16- 7 Off Coast of Portugal. 221 1042 ' 9 36-23 N 16-46 Off Gibraltar 210 1252 ' 10 33-15 N 17-30 Abreast Madeira 198' 1450 ' 11 29-56 N 18-37 Do. Morocco 207 1657 ♦ 12 26-29 N 19-42 Off Canary Islands . . . 216 1873 • 13 22-50 N 20-49 Off Sahara D8t.(Afca.) 218 2091 ' 14 19-30 N 21-46 Do. 216 2307 • 15 16- 5 N 22-14 Off Cape Verde Islands 216 2523 ' 16 12-33 N 23- 1 Mid Atlantic 209 2732 • 17 9- 1 N 24-12 Do. 221 2955 ' 18 5-56 N 25-39 Do. 204 3157 ' 19 3-10 N 27-40 Off St. Paul's Rocks 205 3362 * 20 * 21 0-12 s 3-31 s 28-49 30-30 Equator . ; 216 223 3578 Off Coast of Brazils . 3801 * 22 6-51 s 32-16 Off Parahaiba, S. Am. 226 4027 * 23 10-14 s 33-51 '• Beneibo 224 4251 * 24 13-22 s 35- 1 '* San Salvador" 220 4471 ' 25 16-40 s 37-24 " Porto Seguro ♦' 221 4692 ' 26 19-57 s 38-53 " Spirito Santo" 210 4902 ' 27 22-57 s 41-42 *' Rio Janeiro " 240 5142 ' 28- 25-26 s 43-49 " Paranacua " 180 5322 ' 29 27-50 s 45-34 " Santa Catarina 179 5501 * 30 30-39 s 48- 1 " PortAlegro " 208 5709 ♦ 31 33 33 s 50-48 ** Uruguay *' 226 5935 1891. - Jan. 1 36-36 s 53-29 " Rvr. Plate (abreast Cape of Good Hope) 226 6161 " 2 39-40 s 55-40 Off Bns. Ayres, S. Am. 211 6372 ( * 3 42- s 58-19 " Glf.StMatias " 188 6560 I — 110 — Itinerary of the Voyage (continued). Date. 1891. Jan. 4 6 6 7 •8 9 10 11 12 13 H 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Feb. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Lat. Long. West. 44- s 61-44 46-11 8 64-12 49-28 8 6543 52-18 8 68-18 52-30 s 70-40 53-53 s 71-11 51-44 8 76-16 48-*25 8 76-31 45- 1 8 76-40 42- 8 76-18 38-20 8 74- 5 37-14 8 <( 73-28 ({ (( (t C( {( 34-10 8 <( << 74-41 30-57 8 76-58 27-46 8 79- 24-35 8 81- 1 21-26 8 83-26 18-15 8 85-37 15-33 8 87-58 12-40 8 92- 1 9-48 8 92-39 7-00 8 95- 4- 8 97-21 1-0 8 99-30 1-58 N 101-24 5- On 102-58 8- On 104-35 10-53 N 106-48 13-37 N 108-40 16-51 N 109-48 Position. *' Cape Raso, S. Am. " Glf. St George" " Pt. St Julian " Straits of Magellan . . Do. Sts. of Magellan (left Sandy Point 2. 30 a. m) Abst.C. Pillar 1.30" Off Ck)a8t of Chili .... Do. Do. Off Mocha Island Coronel, Chili Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Left Coronel 2 p.m. . . Off Valparaiso, S. Am. Off Juan Fernandez Id Sts. Ambrose & Felix Is Mid Pacific. Do. Do. Do. Do. • Do. Do. Mid Pacific , Off Galapagos Islands Mid Pacific . Off Gulf of Panama . , Clipperton Island .... Mid Pacific Off Coast of Mexico , , Do. 196 163 206 199 anchr 100 180 204 200 177 193 anchr Days Run. Total Miles 6756 6919 7126 7324 7424 7604 "S08 m 185 8378 186 225 221 222 226 228 211 227 211 219 231 218 224 206 208 212 197 205 8564 8789, 9010 9232 9458 9686 9897 10124 10335 10554 10785 11003 11227 11433 11641 11853 12050 12255 IT! Date. 1891. Feb. il tt «( (( l( l< (t tt tt — Ill — m Il9 125 124 Itinerary OF THE Voyage (continued). Date. Lat. Ix)ng. Position. Days Run. Total Milea 1891. West. Feb. 9 19-46 N 111-38 OffReveilloGigedoIs. 204 12459 " 10 22-35 N 113-10 Off Lower California, (Cape St. Lucas) 195 12654 ♦ 11 25-25 N 115-30 Do. 207 12861 * 12 28-31 N 117-20 Guadaloupe Island . . . 217 13078 * 13 31-21 N 119- 6 OflF San Diego, Cal. . . 194 13272 ' 14 34- On 121-28 Off Pt. Conception Cal. 206 13478 * 15 37-30 N 122-58 Off San Francisco, Cal. 215 13693 ' 16 40-28 N 124-30 Off Eureka, Cal 196 13889 " 17 43-12 N 124-53 Off Cape Blanco, Ore . 180 14069 " 18 46-40 N 124-32 Off Point Toke, Ore.. 185 14254 " 19 48-26 N 123-27 E8quinialt,B.C. 8 a.m. 146 14400 -^ ^ . V '^ y k <^ <^ BestVie\M8 Book 45 C ALBU ATL ? Special I fo Offi P.O. BC V. ^ o- ^^ ^^ ^^ ^ e^ G' ^' s> ^ Best Views of City and Country on sale CENTRAL Books StatiorieF^ Co. 45 GOVERNMENT ST. VICTORIA, B.C. COMPLETE STOCK OF ALBUMS, DICTIONARIES ATLASES, BIBLES and J>YAYER BOOKS Special Arrangenientsi with Publishera to forward all the latest Novels as published. Office and School Supplies. P.O. BOX 737. J. R. IvERR A. B. Erski^e P.O. BOX 290 ERSKINE'S Boot and Shoe Hmporium 132 GOVERNMENT ST. VICTORIA, B.C. COR. JOHNSTON ST. NOTARIES PUBLIC. P.O. 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