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«t\

ARCTIC

EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES

DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.

BEINO DETAILED iCOOUNTS OF THE

SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS TO THE NORTH SEAS.

jtoTU ij:n(»limr and American, conouctkd by

BOSS, PAHBY. BACK, FRANKLIN, M'CLUHE, DU. KANB« AND OTHKRi,

INCLUDINO THB lA)NQ AND FROITLBMH

EFFORTS AND FAILURES

SEARCIi OF SIR JOHN FRANKI^IN.

EDITED AND COMPLETED TO 1855.

SAMUEL, M. SMUCKER, A. M.,

AUTHOR OK "court AND REIQN OF CATHERINK It," "NICHOLAS I," " MKK*
ORABL.B BCUNKS IN FRENCH HISTORY," " HI8TORY OK THE MORMONS," ETC.

WITH A CONTINUATION TO THTti YEAB 1886.

By WM. h. ALLISON.

By
WM. L. ALLISON.

PUBI^ISHER'S PREFACE.

In offering this account of Arctic explorations
to the public in a new form, and with tlie narra-
tive continued from 1857, where Dr. Smucker left
off, down to the year 1886, the publisher aims to
present a history of discoveries in the Ice Zones
during the present century more complete and
interesting to the general reader than any other
that can be found in a single volume. Although
the literature of Arctic adventure would forma
library in itself, yet there is no other book which
presentt:^ a continuous narrative of the various
expeditio. s, from the beginning of the nine-
teenth ceu> iiry to the present time: and the vo-
luminous works which have been published by
the different explorers cover detached periods
and single expeditions, beside being drawn out
to undue length by the personal experience or
interests of the writers. It is believed that this
compendious narrative gives all needful details,
and omits no important discovery in the ice-belts
— while no individual adventurer or commander
is exalted at the expense of his forerunners or
compeers.

The disasters which overtook so many ex-
plorers, especially the parties of De Long and
Greeley, led to the abandonment of the Interna-
tional Signal Stations established in concert by
most civilized nations, and no scientific circum-
polar expeditions have been recently sent out.
Except the projected journey of Col. Gilder an-
nounced in the last pages of this volume the
only efforts which have been made within the
last two years, or which appear to be in contem-
plation, to add to our knowledge of the Arctic re-
gions, are the following:

ll'346a

PROViNCiAu. Li^i.-^AHY
VICTOrilA, B. 0.

PUBLISHER^ PRBFACE.

Russia has observers stationed on the shores
of the Arctic Ocean in Siberia — in the Lena Delta,
along the Yana River, and in the New Siberian
Islands where De Long s party landed on their
way to starvation, cold and death.

Denmark is still at work surveying her Green-
land coasts; while Civil Engineer Peary, of the
United States Navy, is preparing to penetrate
the frozen wastes of Greenland, hitherto un-
trodden, far inland, by any explorer except
Nordenskiold's Lapps, who, in 1883, forced their
way about 200 miles inland in the latitude of
Disco, where they found the ice 6,000 feet above
the sea, and still rising toward the east. It is
thought that this ice mantle covers the whole
interior of Greenland to a thickness of from
1,000 to 3,000 feet. Mr. Peary proposes to enter
Greenland at the great Omenak fiord, and to travel
east a little north of the route followed by Nor-
DENSKiOLD, Until he reaches the head of Franz
Josef fiord, on the east coast, where Petermann's
Peak rises 11,000 feet above the ice-beleaguered
sea. If he reache? this point, he may be able to
determine the ice conditions of the island from
thv5 west to the east coasts. Lieutenant Holm,
the Danish traveler, found on the east coast of
Greenland a hitherto unknown tribe of Eskimos.
Dr. Boas in i883-'84, made several excursions
along the coast and in the interior of Baffin Land,
and he divides the Eskimos of that region into
seven stems, which show considerable differ-
ences in dialect, religious customs and habits.
His miap is the first that records the native
names of hundreds of localities, beside correct-
ing many errors in previous charts.

There are extensive regions in the Arctic that
civilized men have never seen. Though the
blight of perpetual winter reigns there, undis-
turbed except by slight glimpses of summer,
yet it is a wonderful archipelago of islands, bays,

PUBLISHER S PREFACE.

:3.

^S.

gfulfs, sounds, inlets, straits and seas. There
are extensive tracts and coast lines which are
almost a blank on the map of North America.
King William Land is but little known; Boothia,
where tlie magnetic pole is supposed to be
located, is only a name on an unfamiliar chart;
and when the traveler has passed through the
Gulf of Boothia past Bellot Strait into Regent In-
let and Lancaster Sound, and beyond it into
North Levon, North Lincoln and EUesmere
Land, he will have entered an unknown region
which, stretching northwest and westward to
Arthur Land (discovered and named by Greeley)
will rewrird his daring with the meod of renown,
if he sV' all succeed in its exploitation. Though
no important additions may be made to our
geographical or ethnological knowledge — yet an
accurate map of that extensive coast and nest
of islands, waters and ice-fields; and a descrip-
tion of the natives, animals, grasses, or whatever
other signs of life, animate or inanimate, that
exist there, would be of manifest advantage to
the world. The individual explorers who volun-
tarily leave the haunts of civilized men to
penetrate the inhospitable wilds and outskirts
of the earth, will earn and receive greater honor
than those who go at the beck of authority or
under the auspices of any government. The
renown of all great travelers has been achieved
without the aid of national appropriations to
defray their expenses, guard their lives, and in-
sure their safe return — while the greatest disas-
ters have attended expeditions which have been
fitted out with elaborate preparations by great
naval power. Col. Gilder, it may be, will stand
a better chance of life if accompanied only by
the Eskimos of Hudson Bay, and living on the
game resdiirces of the country — and may thus
reach a farther North — ^than if he were attended
by well-manned, provisioned and armored ships-

PUBLISHERS PREFACE.

That a numerous party not inured to the rigors
of the climate, and requiring iuborious exertions
to supply them with food, is not fitted for Arctic
explorations, has been proved by the wJiole his-
tory of adventures in that region. A few years
since the natives made a successful overland
journey of over 3,000 miles, with Lieut. Schwatka
and Col. Gilder, from Hudson Bay to King William
Land, and back again without the loss of a life.
Another attempt may be crowned with still
greatersuccess,. and enable this hardy explorer
to pierce the very centre of the Pole, and to
write his name higher up on the scroll of fame
than any of tlie illustrious navigators who have
boldly gone into the Arctic night to die, or to
suffer there and return.

Since the U. S. Signal Station at Point Barrow,
Alaska, was abandoned, by act of Congress, the
United States Government has done comparative-
ly nothing to explore and develop our own Arctic
territory of Alaska, so rich in fisheries, furs,
timbers i nines. But The New York Times —
following- ..e notable example of The Herald^
which sent Stanley to Africa in search of Living-
ston, and gave to the United States the unfortu-
nate /ea«we//tf, in which De Long vainly attempted
to penetrate the Arctic Ocean by wayof Behring's
Straits — has recently dispatched (from Washing-
ton Territory), Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, and
Prof. William Libbey, Jr., of Princeton College,
N. J., to explore for that journal the vSt. Elias
Alps of Alaska. When they arrive at Sitka they
will organize an expedition of white men and
Indian guides, interpreters and laborers, and
spend the rest of the summer in
endeavors to explore the interior and ascend
Mount Elias. Attention will be directed to the
native tribes of Alaska, from whom it'^ is antici-
pated much information of interest to ethnolo-
gists may be derived. The main object of the

publisher's prefacb.

vtt

ege,

Uias

they

and

and
in
cend

the
tici-
lolo-

the

expedition, however, is geographical exploration
in the St. Elias Alps, and the collection of such
scientific and commercial information about the
products and resources of Alaska as may be of
value to the public.

W. U A.
New York, /une 29, 1886. *

,<-

PREFACE.

The records of maritime adventure and discovery con-
stitute one of the most attractive pages in literature.
Nearly three thousand years before the birth of Christ,
the bold Tyrians and Phoenicians deserted the confines of
their native continent to explore new realms, and to ob-
tain from the then unknown land of Spain, tb«* means of
augmented splendor, luxury and wealth. From ihat re-
mote period, down through succeeding ages until the
present, the most enterprising and daun^Teis of human
spirits have found their congenial field of labor and ac-
tivity in adventuring into untrodden and unfamiliar re-
gions in search of riches, celebrity and conquest.

It was this spirit which has in the past given birth to
niany great states and empires. It was this spirit which
planted Carthage on the northern shores of Africa, and
eventur. iy rendered her the dangerous and not unworthy
rival of Kome. It was this spirit which built Marseilles,
Aries, Nismes, and many of the most important cities of
France, which contain to this day Impressive monuments
of Boman origin and supremacy. It was this spirit which
made England pass successively under the resistless sway
of her Roman, Saxon, Danish and Norman conquerors.
But more especially was it this restless and Insatiable
genius of adventure which created the greatness of the
chief maritime cities of modern Italy, of Genoa and Ven-
ice, as well as that of the kingdom of Portugal and Spain.
To this same desire for discovery the world is indebted
for the glorious achievements of Columbus, Vespuclus,
and De Soto ; and for the revelation of the magnificent

ii!!

liii

Z PRSFACB.

novelties and unparalleled beauties of these western con-
tinents, laden wiiii the most valuable treasures and
products of the earth, which they threw open to the
knowledge and the possession of mankind.

After the discovery of the American continents, and aft-
er the thorough exploration of the Southern and Pacific
creans, it was generally supposed that the materials for
further adventures of this description had all been ex-
hausted. The whole habitable globe seemed then to
have been made accessible and familiar to men, both as
apostles of science and as emissaries of commerce. It
was thought that the era of maritime discovery, the days
of Vasco de Gama, of Marco Polo, and of Sydney, had
ended forever. But this supposition was erroneous. One
additional field of this description yet remained. It was
indeed a gloomy and repulsive one. It was totally de-
void of the attractive and romantic splendors which in
other days had allured men to sail through tranquil
oceans to fragrant islands, which bloomed like gardens on
the bosom of summer seas ; or to continents which were
covered with the richness of tropical vegetation aud luxu-
riance, and were stored with spices, gold, and gems. But
it was a field which demanded greater heroism, greater
endurance, and was fraught with greater perils, than any
other department of discovery. This region lay far up
toward the northern Pole. It was the vast frozen land
of everlasting snowflelds, of stupendous icebergs, of
hyperborean storms, of the long, cheerless nights of the
Arctic Zone. To navigate and explore these dismal
realms, men of extreme daring, of sublime fortitude, of
unconquerable perseverance, were absolutely necessary.
And such men possessed one great element of distinguish-
ing greatness, of which the explorers of more genial and

PREFACE.

inviting climes were destitute. Their investigations were
made entirely witbioiit ttio prospect of rich reward, and
chiefly for the promotion of the magnificent ends of
science. The discovery of a north-western passage was
indeed not forgotten ; but it must be conceded that other
less mercenary and more philanthropic motives have
given rise to the larger portion of the expeditions which,
during the progress of the nineteenth century, have in-
vaded the cheerless solitudes of that dangerous and re-
pulsive portion of the globe.

The following pages contain a narrative of the chief
adventures and discoveries of Arctic explorers during
this century. No expedition of any importance has been
omitted ; and the work has been brought down in its de-
tails to the nreseut time, so as to include a satisfactory
account of the labors, sufferings and triumphs of that
prince of Arctic explorers and philanthropists,— Dr. Kane ;
whose adventures, and whose able narrative of them, en-
title him to fadeless celebrity, both as a hero in the field,
and as a man of high genius and scholarship.

Every reader who carefully peruses the following pages
must be convinced that the Arctic hemisphere has
now been thoroughly explored. Every accessible spot
has been visited and examined by v. me one or other
of the various expeditions which have been sent out ; and
that vast extent of countries and of seas uich intervene
from Smith's Sound and "Wolstenholme Sound in the ex-
treme east, being the remotest northern limits of Green-
land, to the Avestward as far as to Behring's Straits, which
divide America from Asia, has been examined. These
limits inclose an area of about four thousand miles, every
attainable portion of which has been subjected to the
scrutiny of recent Arctic explorers. It can scarcely be ex-

Xll

PR£FAC£.

pected that any traces of the existence and fate of Sir John
Franklin still remain on the globe, which further perse-
verance and research could possibly reveal. Even if the
great chapter of Arctic discovery and adventure should
now be closed, it will constitute one of the most remark-
able and entertaining departments of human heroism,
enterprise and endurance, which biography or history
presents.

ii'n

CONTENTS.

Introductory Bemarks > > % . kSI

Little known ot tbe Arctic Regions— Notice of Capt. PhippB' Voyage— Parry's
and Franklin's oplnionn on a northwest nassagre— Abstract of Sir John Bar-
row's works on Arctic Dibcovery— England's neglect of ber nautical heroes.

Captain Sir John Ross' Voyage in the Isabella and Alexander to
Hudson's Bay in 1818 87

Names of the ofHcers and men— Ships visited by the natives of Qreenland—
Abundance of birds on this coast— Gale of wind— Red Rnow— Lancaster Sonnd-
The fabulous Croker mountaius— Agnes monument--Large liear shot— Return
home.

Voyage of Buobau and Franlcliu in the Dorothea and Trent, to

Bpitzbergen, etc., 1818 45

Names of ofllcers and complement, etc— Fanciful appearance of iceberea—
Bhipsarrive at Spitzberaen— Anchor in Mivgdal<>n Bay— ilanging icebergs— Inu-
oiense flocks of birds— Dangerous ascent of Uotge Ilil i— Attack of walruses-
Surprised by unlooked-for visitors— Devout feeling of recluses— Expedition
puts to sea again- Party lose themselves un the ice— Ships damaged by tbe
pressure of the floes— Dangerous position of the ships— They take refuge In
the main pack of Icebergs— Vessels put into Fair Haven to stop leaks and
refit- Return uome.

Franklin's First Land Expedition, 181&-21 61

Party leave England in the Prince of Wales— Reach Hudson's Bay factory by
the end of August— Proceed by the rivers and lakes to Cumberland House-
Arrive at Fort Chipewyan after a winter Journey of 867 miles— Engage voya-
geursand guides— Make the :u;quaintauce ot Akaitcho, the Indian.chlef— Push
on forFort Enterprise, which is mmle their winter resideijce after a vovdgeot
663 miles- Exploruiji excursions carried ondurliig the winter-" Green Stock-
ings, "the Indian beauty— Stores and Esquiuiaux interpreters arrive— Severity
of the winter— Sufferings of the Indinns— Party set out for the I'olar Sea-Ex-
amine the coast westward of Point Turnagain— Dreadful hardships and suffer-
ings endured on their return Journey, from famine and fatigue— Death of sev-
eral ot the party— Mr Hood is murdered by Michel the Iroquois, who, for their
mutual safety, is killed by J)r. Richardson— Hunger and famine endured by the
party— Their uliimate relief.

Parry's First Voyage in the Hecla and Griper, 1819-30 86

Names of ofllcers serving, etc. -Enter Lancaster Sound— The Croker moun-
tain prove to be fallacious— Parry discuveiH and enters Regent Inlet— Also dis-
covers and names various Islands, capes and channels— Reaches Melville Isl-
and— Expedition cros ihe meridian of 110" W. and become entitled to tbe
Pailiamentary reward of £50t)0— Drop anchor for the first time— Land on the
Island— Abundance of animals found— An exploring party lose themselves (or
threedays, but are recovered and brought back— Vesselsgetinto winter quar-
ters -A MS. newspaper published— Amateur |>lay.<^ performed— Observatory de-
Htroyed by fire- Scurvy makes itsappearance— Cm ws put on short allowance—
An excursion of a fortnight made to examine the island— Ships get clear ot the
ice— But are unable to make further progress to the westward, and their return
to ifiugland is determined on,^^ — - • —

XIV

C0NTE;N,f8.

1!!

Parry 's Seoond Vdy ag© in th© Fury and Hecla, 1821-23 101

His opinion an to a north weal |m98ag:tB— Make IlPsolutlon Tslaiul, at the en-
trance of Hudson's Straii— DanRc^rs mi the ice— Fall in with Hudson's Bay
Company 'SBbips, and emigrant vesselj with Dutch colonists proceedhiK toRed
Blver— "Two immense bears killed— Description of the p]squinjaux— Surveys
madeof all the indentations and coasts oi tfiis locality— Ships driven back by
the current and drift-ice— Take up their winter quarters— And resort to the-
atrical amusements again— Schools estabished— Great severity ol the winter—
Surveying operations resumed— IntelliKeut E5)quimanx female aft'ordH valuable
hydrograj)hlcal information— Perilous position of the Heda— Her miraculous
release- Shij>« pass their second winter at Jeloolik- The Fury and Hecia Strait
examined— Ice breaks up— Ships driven about by tlie current for thirty-five
days— At last gain the Atlantic and make for Kngland.

Clavering'8 Voyage to Spitzberjren and Greenland in the Grip-
er, 18a3 136

Conveys ont Capt. Sabine to make observation- Reach SpitzberKen— Proceed
thence to Pendulum islaiifis— 'Northeastern coast of Greenland surveyed— Cap-
tain Claverlng and a party of nineteen men carry on an exploring expedition
forafortnlKht— Meet with a tribe of Esquimaux— Ship puts to sea— Make for
the coast ol Norway— Anchor in Drontheim Fiord— Observations being com-
pleted, ship returns to England.

Lyon's Voyage in tlie Griper 138

Is sent to survey and examine the straits and shores of Arctic America— Ar-
rives in tlie channel known as Koo's Welcome— P]ncoiinters a terrific gale— Is
Inlmminentdanger in the Bay of Ood's Mercy— Sufters from another fearful
storm— The ship being quite crippled, and having lost all her anchors, etc., is
obliged to return home.

Parry's Third Voyage ia the Hecla and Fury, 1834^35 130

Names and number of the offlcera, etc.— Hecla laid on her broadside by the
Ice— Ships reach Lancaster Sound— Enter Regent Inlet, and winter at Port
Bowen— Dreary character of the arctic winter— Former amusements worn
threadbare— Polar Ba Masque got up— Exploring parties sent of inland and
along the coast— Ships are released, but beset by the ice, and carried by the
pack down the inlet— Fury drl/en on shore and abandoned— Return voyage
necessarily determined on— Scarcity of animal fotHl In this locality— Hecla ar-
rives ^ Peterhead- Parr3''8 opinion? of the northwest passage.

Fran]£lin'8 Seoond Land Expedition, 1835-36 137

Names olthe officers accompanying him— Arrive in New York and proceed
through the Hudson's Bay Company's territories- Winter at Fort Franklin on
Great Bear Lake— A pioneer party proceeds to examine the state of the Polar
Sea— Return and pasp the long winter— Descend the Mackenzie in the spring-
Party divide; Franklin and Back proceeding to the westward, while Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Kendal, etc.. follow the Coppermine River— Franklin en-
counters a fierce tribe of Esquimaux at the sea— Aftw a month's survey to the
eastward, Fran>:lin and his party retrace :heir step.?— Find Richardson and
Kendal bad returned before t}iem,after reaching and exploring Dolphin andUnion
Strait— Another winter spent at Fore Franklin— Inten.sity of the cold— Large
collection of objects of natural history made by Mr. Drummond— Franklin's
struggle between atfeciion and duty— Party return to England.

Captain Beeohey's Voyage to Behring's Strait in tho Blos-
som, 1835-36 140

Anchors off Petropanlowski- Receives Intelligence cf Parry's safe return-
Interview with the natives— Correct bydrographical descriptions given by the
Esquimaux— Ship's boat pushes on to the eastward as far asPoint Barrow, to
communicate with Franklin-Crew in danger from the natives -Obliged tore-
turn totheirships— The Blossom proceeds t.» the Pacific, to replenish her pro-
visions-Returns to Kotzebue Sound In the jummer-Ship grounds on a sand-
bank, but is got off- Boat sen* out to learn tidings of Franklin, is wrecked-
Crew come Into collision with hostile natives, and are wounded ; p eked up by
the ship— Dispatches left for Franklin, and the ship returns to England.

Parry's Fourth or Polar Voyage in the Heola, 1837 144

Plans and irnggestlons of Scoresby, Beauroy and Franklin for traveling in
dedgesovertheice- Namesof the ofTlcers emploved—ShIn embarks reindeer
on tne Norway coast— Experiences a tremendous gale— Beset by ice for a
mouth— AnchorB at Spltzbergen— Sledge-boats prepared for the ice Journey--
P«BOrlption of them— Night turned into day-Slow progress— Occupations of

CONTENTS.

.138

the party— Lose ground by the southward drift of the Ice -Bear shot-Noticen
of aniraula seen— Keanh northnriiniost linown land— The Islet named after
Rosp— Ri'turri to the ship— Parry's aiil)sciine"t BURKostioii i on this mode of
trHveliiiB— Sir John Barrow's comments thereon— Opinions of this perilous ice
Journey— Review of Parry's arctic services.

Captain John Ross' Second Voyage in the Victory, 1829-83 155

luand— List of other onfcers— Ship encounters ugale, and is obliged to put Into
Uol8telnl)erg to refit— I'roceod on their voyage— Knter Lancaster Hound and
Hegent Inlet— Reach Fury Beacii— Find ahnndance of stores there, and pre-
served meat in excellent condition— Replenish their stocK— Proceed down the
talet— Periln of the Ice— Vessel f'ecu red in Felix Harbor for the wi nter- Esqui-
maux visit the ship— l-'urnirth very conect sketches of the coast— Commander
James Ross makes many excursions inland and along the hav8an4 Inlets— Kx-
plores Ross'Strai', and pu.shesonto King William's Latirl— iJillicnlty of dis-
tinguishing land from sea— Reaches Point Victory and turns back— Hhin gets
clear of tho Ice, after eleven months' iniprlsonnient.but in a week Is again
frozen iu, and the party are detained during another severe winter— Further
discoveries made, and Commander Ross nlunts the British flag on the north
magnetic n;)le— In August, 1831, thesliip is warped out, and makes sail, but
after beating about for a month. Is again frozen In; and rather than spend a
fourth winter, there being ;io prospect of releasing the shii\ she Is abandoned
and the crew mdke for Fury Reach— I'rovislons and boats taken on with grea{
labor— Party erect a canvas lint, wliich they nanie Somerset Ilouse— In a
month, the boats being prepared for tlie voynge, the party embark, and reach
the mouth of the inlet— IJarroWs Strait is found one compact mass of ice— They
are obliged to fall back on the stores at Fury Beaoli to 8j)end their fourth win-
ter—Placed on short allowance— In the spring they again embark in their boats
and succeed in reaching Lancaster Sound— Fall In with whalers— Are received
onboard the Isabella, Captain Ross' old ship— Arrive home— Public reloiclngs
for their safety— Rewards granted— Resume of Captain John Ross' services.

Captain Baclc'a Laud Journey in Search of Ross, 183b-d4 168

Attention called lo ihe missing expedition by Dr. Ricliardson— Plans of relief
Buggesieil— Public meeting hold to consider tlie beat measures— Ample funds
raised— Capt. Back volunieers— Leaves Kngland with Dr. King— Voyage" 's and
guides, etc. .engaged in Canada— Party push through the northwest co ii,ry—
Dreailiulsufterings from insect pests— Reach Fort Resolution, on Great Slave
Lake— Motley dctcrlptlon of the travelers and their encampment-Arrange-
ments are completed, and the Journey in search of the Great Fish River com-
menced— Frightful nature of the precipices, rapids, falls, ravines, etc.— Meet
with old acquaintances— Obliged to return to their winter quarters— Dreadful
suffeiingaof the Indians— Famine and Intense cold -Noble conduct of Akaltcho
the Indian chief— News received of Captain Ross' safe return to England-
Franklin's faithful Plsqulmaux interpreter, A ngustus, endeavoring to Join Back
is frozen to death— A fresh Journey toward the dea is resolved on— Provisions
for three monies taken— Indian encampment— Green Stockings, the beauty-
Interview with the chief, Akaitcho— Arduous and perilous progress toward the
sea— Pilfering propensities of the Indian— Meet witli a large friendly tribe of
liJsqulmaux-Reach the Hea, and proceed along the coast to the eastward un-
aole to arrive at the Point Tnrnagain of Franklin— Privations of the party on
their leturn Journey— DifHculties encountered in re-ascending the river— Reach
Fort Reliance after four niontlis' absence— Pass the winter there— Captain Back
arri^on In England in September, after an absence of two years and a half— Dr
K!r J -lows him In the Iludson's Bay spring ships.

Bacls's Voyage in the Terror up Hudson's Strait, 1836 186

Ship arrives at Salisbury Island— Proceeds up Frozen Strait— Is blocked up
by the Icb, and driven about powerless for more than six months— Cast on her
beam ends for three days— From the crippled state of tlie ship and the Insur-
mountable difficulties of the navigation, the return to England is determined
on— Summary of Captain Back's arctic services.

Messrs. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries on the Coast of Arctic

America, 1836-39 187

Descend the Mackenzie to tlie sea— Survey the western part of the shores of
North America from Return Reef to Cape Barrow- Discover two now rivers
the Garry and Colvllle— After reaching Elson Bay, return to winter at Jori
Confidence, on Great Bear Lake— Survey resumed In the ensuing spring— Dan-

iierona rapids on the Coppermine river— Encamp at its month— Copper ore
ound here— Victoria Laud discoveied and 140 miles of new coast traced— B9<

xvr

CONTENTS.

'ill.

ll.Mj

ascent of tbe Coppermine Rommenced— 'Boats abandoned, and tbe Barrett
erounda traversed on foot— Bpend another winter at Fort Confidence— Tbe fol*
rowlug season a third voyage commenced— Ricbard son's River examined—-
Coronation Gulf found clear of Ice— Coast surve> to the eastward prosecuted—
BImpsun's Htralt discovered— Back's Estuary readied— Deposit of provisions
made by Back Hve years previous, found— Aberdeen Island, tbe extreme point
reached— I'arts of coasts of Boothia and Victoria Land traced— One of tbeboata
abandoned— Descent of the Coppermine, and safe arrival at Fort Confidence.

Dr. John Bae's Laud Expedition, 1846-47 199

Hudson's Bay Company dispatch Koe and a party of thirteen men to com*

§Iet« the survey between Dease and Simpson's furthest, and tbe Fury and
lecia Strait— Expeilitlon leaves Fort C/'hurcbili— Reaches W^er River— Boats
taken-across Rae's Isthumus— Winter residence constructed— Short common»—
West shore of Melville I'eulnsula, etc., examined— Party return to their en-
campment, and proceed to Fort Oliurch ill— Gratuity of £400 awarded to Dr.
Bae.

Captain Sir John Franlclin's Last Expedition in the Erebiia and

TeiTor, 1845-51 196

Probability of the safety of tho expedition— Montgomery's lines on ice-im-
prisoneu /cssrpIs- Lady Fran kiln's devotion and enthusiasm— Verses— Her «in-
peai to the north— Sir E. Parry's opinion -Outfit and dispatch of Franklin's ex-

S edition— Nemes of the officers employed— Outline of Franklin's services—
fotices of 'the services of other of the offlcers— Searching expeditions sent out
In 1848— Different volunteers offer- Absence of intelligence of Franklin— His
latest dispatches and letters— Copper cylinders— Franklin's views and intentions
—Letters of Captain Fitzlames— General opinions of the most experienced
arctic ofBcers as to Franklin's safety— Offer of services and suggestions by Dr.
l£liig_Oi)lnlonsof Captains Parry »nd James Ross thereon— Consultation of
offlcers at the Admiralty— Report of tbe bydrograpber— Advice tendered by
tboseconsiulted— Viewsof Mr. Snow and Mr. Mo Lean— Public and private re-
wards offtired for discovery and assistance to be rendered- Second report of Ad-
miral BeB.'ifort to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty— Various private
and oiliciul letters and dispatches, pointing out, or commenting on plans and
modes of relief— Abundance of animal food found in the arctic reglons-.'A ballad
of Sir John Franklin.

The Government and Private Searching Expeditions 281

List of the vessels and commanders, etc. , now emplgyed on the search in tb«
arctic regjious- Notices of those returned home.

Vovago of the Enterprise and Investigator under Captains Sir
Xcf Ross and E. J. Bird, 1848-49 281

Names of the offlcers employed in tills expedition— Ships arrive at Upperna-
vick— Proceed on their voyage— Force a passage through the ice— Enter Bar-
row's Strait— After being driven about in the pack, take shelter for the winter
In the harbor of Port Leopold— Surveying trips carried on down the inlet, and
round the northern and western shores of Boothia— Foxes trapped and liber,
ated with copper collars on— Fury open water— Beset by the loose pack, and the
temperature falling, the whole body of ice Is formed into one solid maas.and the
shins are drifted wiih the field into Baffin's Bay— The return to England de-
termined on— Outliiio of Sir James Ross' arduous services in the polar regions.

Voyage of the Transport, North Star, 1849 390

Names of the offlcers o>* the sbip-Offlcial dispatch from the Commander-
Shin beset in an Ice-fleld in the northern part of Baffin's Bay— Drifted with it
forsixtv-twodavs- Wlntersin VVolstenholnieSound— Dearth of animals there-
Shin gets clear of Ice and makes for Lancaster Sound— The Lady Franklin and
Felix are spoken with— Belns prevented by the ice from reaching P*rt Bowen
or Port Neill. the provisions taken out by the North Star are landed at Navy
Board Inlet— Speaks the Prince Albert— Keaelves dispatches for England— Be-
urns home- Commander Saunders appointed to Malta Dock-yard.

Second Voyage of the Enterprise and Investigator under Cap-
tain Collinson and Commander M'CIure, 1850 .....a»4

Namesof officers attached to the ships- Esquimaux Interpreter appointed to
the Enterprise— Vessels arrive at the Sandwich Islands— Expressed intentions
of the commanders of the vessels— Ships reach Behring's Strait— Communicata
with the Herald at Plover— Latest dispatches oX Captain ColUnaon and Gom-
IDAnder M'CIure— Position of their ships.

fii

CONTENTS.

XVII

Voyage of th© Plover, and Boat Expeditions under Commander

Pullen, 1848-51 807

Purportof in.>tructlou8 Issued from the Admiralty— Ship arrives In Behrlng's
Strait— Discovers pew land and Islands to tli« north of tiie strait— Winters In
Kotzebue Sound— I teutenant Pullen and party proceeil In boats alouK the coast
(o the Mackenzie River— No tidings gleamed of Franklin's ships— Letter from
Lieut. Hooper— Latest ofltclal dispatch from Commander Pullen— Ills iateu-
tlODs— Sir John Richardson's advice.

Voyage of the Lady Franklin and Sophia, purcliased govern-
ment sliips, under tlie command of Mr. Peuuy Sl'i

' Nature of the Instructions given— Printing Press supplied— Ships sail and
reach Wolstenheime Soui.d— Prevented by the ice from examining Jones'
Sound— Beacli Wellington Channel, and are left there by the Prince Albert.

Voyage of the Resolute and Assiatanoe, under command of
Captain Austin, with their steam teuder.-^iPioneer and lu-

, treyid, 1850-61 318

' Ships purchased and are renamed by the government— Ofllcers employed—
lostruotlons given to search Wellington Channel, and push onto Melville
Island— Offlciat dispatch irom Captain Ommaney— MS. newspaper i>tarted on
board the Asslstenoe— liaitracts therefrom.

Voyage of Captain Sir John Boss in the Felix private schooner

185^-51 319

Is fitted out bv the Hudson's Bav Company and private subscription— Arrives
at Wbaleflsh Islands, and overt<il<es the Advance and Resolute— Proceeds In
company— Esquimaux reports of the destruction of Franklin's ships, and mur-
der of the crew— Proved by investigation to be devoid of foundation— Letter of
Sir John Boss to the Secretary of the AdmlraUy.

American Government Searching Expedition in the United

States ships Advance and Beseue, under the command of

Lieutenant De Haven, 1850-51 335

Lady Franklin's appeal to the American nation— Mr. Clayton's reply— Second
letter of Lady Franklin to the President— Suggestions of Lieutenant U. Osburn,
It. N.— Debate In Congress— Besolutlons agreed to— Munificence of Mr. H.
Orlnnell— Ship fitted out and dispatched -Names of officers employed— Dis-
patches from the commander.

Bemarkable Voyage of the private ship Prince Albert, under

the command of Captain Forsyth, B. N., to Begent Inlet and

back, 1850 348

Fitted out by Lady Franklin and by private subscription- Reasonsfor the
expedition— Officers and crew— Discover traces of Franklin- Fall in with other
Btiips— Visits Begent Inlet— Is forced to return home— Bemarks on this voyage.

The American Grinnell Expedition in search of Sir John Frank-
lin, in the Advance and Becue, under the command of Lieu-
tenantE. De Haven, in the years 185(K>1 361

Oflicersof the Expe/lltlon— Progress of the voyage— First encounter with an
Ice-berg— Acres ol broken ice— Landing at Whale Island- Procure winter cloth-
ing and supplies at a Danish settlement— Perilous position of the Kescue— Polar
bears— Open sea— Joined by the Prince Albert, Royal navy— CJrlmson Cliffs-
Tremendous gale— Articles belonging to Franklin's sliips— Three graves of
Franklin's men— Other traces of the missing navigator— Approach «t the Arctic
winter— Battling with ice— Kxtreme perils— Five months In the Ice— Arctic
amusements and employments— Arctic night— Re-appearance of the sun— Lib-
eration of the Ice-bound vessels— Further Kxplorations— Decide to return-
Arrival atthe Navy yard— Effects of the Expedition— WINTEB IN THE
ABCTIC OCEAN by Lieutenant De Haven.

A Summer Search for Sir John Franklin, with a Peep into the
Polar Basin, by Commander E. A.Inglefleld, in the Screw-
steamer Isabel, in 1853 411

First glimpse of Greenland- Singular accident— Examination of shores of
WolBtenholme Sound— Northumberland Island— Point Frederick VII.— Ap-
nmrance of the Ice— Visits the graves of Franklin's men at Beecttey Island—
$4facnme«ot «dyanclD«—l40BB of Bpars-Tbd return of the Isabel.

XVIII

CONTENTS.

hi'-.

Eiehlpen Months in iho Polar ReAlong In search of Sir John
Frauklio's Exi)oUitif'ii, in the years 1850-51, l)y Lieutenant
ISherud Osboru, with the Steam vessels Pioneer and in-
trepid 421

DftiiKPisof Riichorlug toan l(^p-bers;— KiitanKl<M\ in tlie pnrk— Kiitf-rs Ilaflln'H
Bay— littiiciiaUT— Honriil IMillosojiliv i)f lce-l)erKH— UeK««iil'H Inlot— Vlblt to
Bpeclicy I sliiiMl—TlioroiiRhw'iiiTlioftliutlsluiul— Visits Barlow's Inlet— rasslng
tliu winter in tltH Hlii|is-<)ci;n|)uil<inH-Ex|)<>rlltionH orKiini7.(><l in the Hpriug—
Visit to J0UC8' Sound- l)o8orli)tion of tlio i;8(iniiuuux nicfs—lteinrn lionte.

Arotio Hearchin^ Expedition; a Joinnn! of a Boat voyage
thioupli lluperCfl Land and tiie Antie fcita, in search of Sir
Jehu Eraulilin, by Sir John liirhardson, in 1851 438

Btrrt for Monlri'iil -Dt'^lsnalfd rontc Iiilcrconrso with tho Ksonlmaux—
Blcetch of tiio Kminlnitiux— liuHsell Jnlft— H»iri(iwhv Hhv— ("apo lluthnrHt—
Cajm Kondall— (:<)|)|)»»rniinn Kiver— KenduU BIvct— TliP Ksqnimanx of this
re>?ion--Tli«»irr»'liKion— 'l"h»>lr ditfiTPiit rai;es and trIbes-The Kutchina-Fort
Coutldence— Basil Hull Buy— Bear J.iikc - 1 f>turn.

The Second Voyage of tlie Prince Albert In search of Sir

Jolin Frunlclin, under tlio command of William Kennedy,

in 18X3 461

Origin (>f this expp.lltion— The outfit and instruHions— Melville Bay— Prince
—Regent's I nli't—l'ort Leopold— Wlnt«T(|narlers at Whaler's Point— Fury tteacb
— J iicideuts during the winter— Cape (jarry-JJaaery Bay— lleturu to Jiaiglaud.

Aroti«Ex')lorations; the Second Grinned Expedition in search
of Sir Joliii Franklin, in 1853, "54, 55, by Dr. E. K. Kane, in
the l>rig Advance 473

Outfit and pjrpose of the expfdition— Visit to Danish settlements of Green-
land— Pans iJrinipon t'lilfs— Smith's Sound— Discovery of the ijreat Uunuboldt
Glacier— But.tei Isiund— KsUililislnnent of provision dejiots— Lite on board tlie
brig— Incidents of the first winter In the ire— IVriloua expedition— Further ex-
amination of Hu!nl)oldt «ilaoier— West I-and-Holiert Morris Hay— Bear-light—
Peep into tho Polar Urm i -View of nature live imndred miles from tiie North
Pole— Littliitou Island— Second winter in tho ioe— Operations in tiiespriUK- Bx-
ploration of Kennedy Channel— Tliiid view of IlnmooUlt Olacier-Bear hunti—
Preparations for return— Departure from the hriR— Conveyance of the sicli—
Anoatok— Slodtre I'urtv— Perilous arlveiitnre— Death of Chrisiian Olilsen— North
Batlin's Bay— The emliarkatlon— nilllcult iiiiviKation— Murchison ('hannel—
NarroAf Kacape— Wearv Man's I{e«t— J/w-ifo-G'^icc-Cape York- Want of pro-
visions— Seal hunt-Coast of Oreeiiland— The Bayak—Dlscoui aging news— Ar-
rival at Upernavik— Captain Hartstene's expedition intlie Arctic and the Re-
lease— Adventures of that expedili on— Beturn to ITpernavIk and discovery of
Dr. Kane's luirty—Ueturn to New York— Results of llie expedition— Subsequent
career of Dr. Kane— His death, Feb. 16th, 1857.

Expedition of Captain Francis McClintoclc, July Ist, 1857 580

Discovery of the First Anthenic Account of Sir .Tohn Franklin's fate— Return
of Uie " Fox " to Isle of WriRlit, September 20th, 1859.

Explorations of Dr. Isaac I. Hayes (Surgeon of Second Grinnell

Expedition) 186- 061 523

Dr. Hayes' First. KxpediUon— He describes the Arctic night— His Open Polar
Bea— Polar Sea of the future- -Mild oliinatesin tiie Arctic— The Glacier system-^
The Home of the Ice-berg— Watching the Ice Mou ntains thrown off by heat and
expansion— Roaring as of aitillery -Scenes in Northern seas.

Dr. Charles F. Hall's Expeditions, 1860-71 540-565

First Kxpedition in the " George Henrv;"Sf cond Expedition in the " Montl-
o-.ilo;" Third or Noitli Polar Expedition in the U. S. Steamer " Polaris"—
Various lulventures and discoveries— Capt, Hall'sdeath- Lossof the " Polaris'-
Hoatingon the ice— Escape of the cie'ws—Capt. Hall awarded the gold medal
of the Geographical Society of Paris— Besuits-Llfe among the Eskimos-
Tombs of his native friends.

Expeditions from Europe— Nordensliiold 364

Weyprecht and Payer sail from Norway, June, 1871— Discover Franz Joseph
Land— Their sledges go to ithin 7'^ or 8^ of the Pole— Capts. Toblesen, Mack

CONTENTS.

XlX

and rftr1«i>n— WiUlnm Rfiront/^ITolve aiul Sniylli— C'apts. Narrs aiuX Voung,
11. N.— Norilt'iiskiiilil In tli« Vegu— 550 uillealroui Ui« Tole.

Lieut. Soliwiitka 8 Expedition, 1878 660

Hcliwutkiiiiii (Jil(li'r>» Kx|)<'<im«iii to Klii« Wlllluin Lund— Ovfrluml HlwlRe
Jounu^v of :J.2.') uilu'M, 1W7H-1HH0— Hellcs ot Fniiikllii'a iiicii-Hkull and l)on»-H
of Mwiil. .loJin IrvliiK H«*ut to Hcotland— l!ai)t. (iilder's nHrrattve- Sclnvalku'a
Inint of tliM ninsk-«rx— Itetiirn, H(<|>1. 22nd, iHHU— llucviveH tho medal ot I'artH
OeoKiai liical Society.

Lieut. DeL jug's Futul ExpeUitiuu iu the " Jeanuette." 571

LcHVcsSjin I'Vivncisco, .Inly Kill. lH7!»—1uk<'sUie llolirinKHtniit route— Crosses
till- piilh of tlie "Venn"- KnconnUTs Kolid loe and 1h frozen in near Herald
IsUind iiiid WriinL'ell Land— Jeanetle Kinks In JU) fathoms, .Iun« 13th, 1881 ; her
crew take to tho lloes ami boats, and atlomnt to reooh the Asiatlt! coast— Lieut.
C'hiiip and tlip seconil colter lostr- DeLoii^ in tlie nrst entter and Daiienhower
In tlMMVhttle-hoat lami at Lena Delta— Defjong and lilsiiurtv all n«»rish except
two. will reiwh a settlemeiit— Their fro/.ei, hmlies recovered— I)e Long's last
Journal— Kesnlts of his expedition— Posthumous honors— Discussion of Arctic
currenls-Th« ^ate to the I'ole harred In Behrlnf? sea— Description of BehrInK
Strait, Sea, Asiatic and Ainericiin coasts.

Rolief Expeditions, 1880, 1881 , 18*2 .588 597

IJ. K. Steamers "t'orwln," " Uixltjers," "Alliance,"— Their ailventures In
search of the * .lean net te," " Mount VVollaston,"a()d *' Vigilant "—the Corwin's
crow explores Hf raid Island and Wrangell Land— Mirages in the Polar seas,-
Ice-fields— Hahlta, langnauti and ntliglon of tho KsKlmaux— The Alt)atroas—
North-feast and North-west jiassages.

Antarctic Expeditions— Tlie "Terra Austmlis IneoRuita" 603

Expeditions of Tapt. Cook, Cjvpt. Wm. Hniiih, BellliiHhansen, Howell,
PaUner, (apt. Weddell, Capt. John nis<!oe, Duniont D'Urvllle, Capt. lloss
Lieut. Charles Wllkes-Features of tho Antarctic Ocean-ImplementH of dead
races, etc.

Lieut. A. W. Greely's Ixpedition— blgmil Stations 606

(jrlnnell Land Jiady Franklin Bay— Signal stalions— Point Barrow, Alaska-
Relief Kxpeditlon-Ue.s* no of the survivors of liie OUkki.y parlv— Starvation—
Cannibalism— Uesults— Arctic seasons. etc. —Signal sUttions rightly aiiandoned—
Jtigor of climate Uicieasing In th(> la.} Zones— f>i)en Polar Sea a delusion- North
PoTeonly fit for tho ghosts of explorers, and foi phantom ships— Ann ras, stars
tides— Latest Projects— Medals to Oukki.v, JiuAiNAiin, etc. '

Col. Wtn.H. Gilder's Proposed Foot Journey to the Pole, . .634 639

Hot he will pet (h(^re, vi:v Lady Franklin Bay— Native hunters, dog-drivers
and their fii.iiMie^ to be his sole companions In a "dash to the Pole." The
" (harden of lOden," the" Lost Itace," and the" Magnetic World."- True Love
on earth exists there only.

Lieut. Greelv's Oasis iu Grinuell Land described iu liis book,
" Three Year.-* of Arctic Service." 640

What LocKWooD and Okkki.v discovered north of 8C N.— An ke-girt Island
with "luxuriant vegetation "In April, and the hum of insects in .Inly, etc.— The
" devil's darning needle " there— Signs of a raild climate and proliiicness at the
Pole in a i)ast ejtoch— Why not in the future ?

.664

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Jeannette in the Ice (Frontispiece) Paqts.

TheEsquimaux Dogs . 126

The Wolves 166

Tlie Advance Among Hummocks 353

Advance and Rescue Beating to Windward of an Iceberg 360

" " Perilous situation in Melville Bay .!!363

" " and Prlnfo Albert near the Devil'sThumb .....ii67

Advance leading the Prince Albert near Leopold Island 374

Anvil Blo«rk, Guide Board ' " ' ' , 375

Three Graves at Beechey " 37Q

The Advance Standard at Cape Biley 377

■'V

'XX

' CONTENTS.

The AdTAnce and R^ncne at Barlow's InlMt 889

duriiiK the Winter of IBAO^l 384

" " •* drIftliiK In WolllnKton Sound 385

The Advance In Davis' Rtralts, June 6tb, 1H61 380

HanllnK Una Bear , 440

The Natives 44J>

Polar Bptir finrl the Esquimaux 640

HolHtloKii Hall 550

ilniitintc tlu' Walrus 551

HhooihiK a Bear 555

An Arolio Scene, Bears 560

The Polaris In Thank Ood Harbor 563

Fnrred AnliimlH 56H

The Jeatjnette Wedged In 574

Dashed Upon the Ice 580

Unfurlln« the Fla? 588

The Ice- Bu rHt 501

Aurora Borealls 614

The Raft Sin king 620

Thousandsof Birds— An Oasis , 688

f'll

THE PROGRESS

ARCTIC DISCOVERY

IN THE

NINETEENTH CENTURY.

If we examine a map of Northern, or Arctic, America,
showing what was known of the countries around the
North Pole in the commencement of the present century,
we shall find that all within the Arctic circle was a com-
plete blank. Mr. Hearne had, indeed, seen the Arctic
Sea in the year 1771 ; and Mr. Mackenzie had traced
the river which now bears his name to its junction with
the sea ; but not a single line of the coast from Icy
Gape to Baffin's Bay was known. The eastern and
western shores of Greenland, to about 750 latitude, were
tolerably well defined, from the visits of whaling vessels;
Hudson's Bay and Strait were partially known ; but
Baffin's Bay, according to the statement of Mr. Baffin,
in 1616, was bounded by land on the west, running
parallel with the 90th meridian of longitude, or across
what is now known to us as Barrow's Strait, and prob-
ably this relation led to the subsequently formed hasty'
opinion of Captain Sir John Ross, as to his visionary
Croker Mountains, of which I shall have occasion to
speak hereafter.

INTRODUCTION.

:.iir'

As early as the year 1527, the idea of a passage to the
East Indies l\v the North Pole was sugf^cstod by a
Bristol iiurcliant to Henry VIII, but no voyaj^e seems
to have })oen undertaken for the purp se of navigating^
the Polar seas, till the commencement of the following
century, when an expedition was fitted out at the ex-
pense of certain merchants of London. To this attempt
S(!veral others succeeded at diti'erent periods, and all ol
tliem were projected and carried into execution by pri-
vate individuals. The adventurers did not indeed ac-
complish the object they exclusively sought, that oi
reaching? India by a nearer route than doubling? the Cape
of Good Hope, but though they failed in that respect,
the fortitude, perseverance, and skill which they mani'
fested, exhibited the most irrefragable proofs of the
early existence of that superiority in naval afl'airs, which
has elevated this country to her present eminence among
the nations of Europe.

At length, after the lapse of above a century and a
half, tliis interesting question became an object of
lioyal patronage, and the expedition which was com-
manded by Captain Phipps (afterward Lord Mulgrave,)
in 1773, was fitted out at the charge of Government.
The tirst proposer of this voyage was the Hon. Daines
Barrington, F. R S. , who, with indefatigable assiduity,
began to collect every fact tending to establish the
practicabiHty of circumnavigating the Pole, and as he
accumulated his materials, he read them to the Royal
Society, who, in consequence of these representations,
made that application to Lord Sandwich, then First
Lord of the Admiralty, which led to the appointment of
this first official voyage. Captain Phipps, however,
found it impos:5ible to penetrate the wall of ice which
extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80°
and 81°, to the north of Spitzbergen. His vessels were
the Racehorse and Carcass ; Captain Lutwidge being his
second in onim^iid, in the latter vessel, and having with
him, then a mere boy, Nelson, the future hero of Eng-
land.

From the year 1648, whf^ the famous Russian navi-
gator, Seuor Denhnew, penetrated from the river
Kolyma through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the

INTKtmUCTlON.

31'G

lis
ith

Russians have been as arduous in theii attemj)t8 tc d'm
cover a northeast passage to the north of Cape Shel-
atskoi, as the English have been to sail to the north
west of the American continent, through Baffin's IJay
and Lancaster Sound. On the side of the Pacilic,
many efforts, have, within tlie last century, been made
to further this object. In 1741, tiie celebrated Captain
Behring discovered the straits which bear his name, as
we are informed by MuUer, the chronicler of Itussian
discoveries, and several subsequent commandeis uf
that nation seconded liis endeavors to penetrate from
the American continent to the northeast. From the
period when Deshnew sailed on his expedition, to the
vear 1761, when Admiral Tchitschagof, an indefatiga-
ble and active officer, endeavored to force a passage
round Spitzbergen, (wliich, although he attempted with
a resolution and skill which would fall to the lot of
few, he was unable to effect,) and thence to the present
times, including the arduous efforts of Captain Billings
and Vancouver, and the more recent one of M. Von
Wrangoll, the Russians have been untiring in their at-
tempts to discover a passage eastward, to the north
of Capo Taimur and Cape Shelatskoi. And certainly,
if skill, perseverance, and courage, could have opened
this passage, it would have been accomplished.

Soon after the general peace of Europe, when war's
alarms had given way to the high pursuits of science,
the government recommenced the long-suspended
work of prosecuting discoveries within the Ai'ctic circle.

An expedition was dispatched under the command
of Sir John Ross, in order to explore the scene of the
former labors of Frobisher and Baffin. Still hauhted
with the golden dreams of a northwest passage, which
Barrington and Beaufoy had in the last age so entliu
siastically advocated, our nautical adventurers by no
means relinquished the long-cherished chimera.

It must bo admitted, however, that the testimony of
Parry and Franklin pass for much on the other side
of the question. Both these officers, whose researches
in the cause of scientific discovery entitle then 'o verj

PE0QRES8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

rati!

im\

m
m

4
ii*

1 a

liigli respect, have declared it as their opinion that
such a passage does not exist to the north of the 75th
degree of latitude.

Captain Parry, in the concluding remarks of his first
voyage, (vol. ii. p. 241,) says — " Of the existence of a
northwest passage to the Pacific, it is now scarcely
possible to doubt, and from the success which attended
our efibrts in 1819, after passing through Sir James
Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anti
cipating its complete accomplishment," &c. And
Franklin, in the eleventh chapter of his work, is of the
same opinion, as to the practicability of such a passage

But in no subsequent attempt, either by themselves
or others, has this long sought desideratum been ac-
complished ; impediments and barriers seem as thickly
thrown in its way as ever.*

An expedition was at length undertaken for the sole
jnirpose of reaching the Isorth Pole, with a view to
the ascertainment of philosophical questions. It was
planned and placed under the command of Sir Edward
rarry, and here first the elucidation of phenomena
connected with this imaginary axis of our planet
formed the primary object of investigation.

My space and purpose in this work will not permit
me to go into detail by examining what Barrow justly
terms " those brilliant periods of early English enter-
prise, so conspicuously displayed in every quarter of
the globe, but in none, probably, to greater advantage
than in tnose bold and persevering efforts to pierce
through frozen seas, in their little slender barks, of the
most miserable description, ill provided with the means
either of comfort or safety, without charts or instru-
ments, or any previous knowledge of the cold and in-
hospitable region through which they had to force and
to feel their way : their vessels oft beset amidst end-
less fields of ice, and threatened to be overwhelmed
with instant destruction fi'om the rapid whirling and
oursting of those huge floating masses, known by the

i^*^^

^«^.

mTRODUOTIOH.

9»

opinion that
I of the 75th

ks of his first
xistence of a
low scarcely
lich attended
h Sir Jamea
I able in anti
' &c. And
ork, is of the
ch a passage
Y themselves
;um been ac-
iva as thickly

tt for the sole
ith a view to
ions. It was
f Sir Edward
phenomena
our planet

1 not permit
arrow justly
giish enter-
quarter of
r advantage
ts to pierce
arks, of the
h the means
ts or instru-
oold and in-
to force and
imidst end-
rerwhelmed
Ihirling and
own by the

name of icebergs. Yet so powerfuUy^ infused into the
minds of Britons was the spirit of enterprise, that
some of the ablest, the most learned, and most respect-
able men of the times, not only lent their countenance
and support to expeditions fitted out for the discovery
of new lands, but strove eagerly, in their own persons,
to share in the glory and the danger of every daring
adventure."

To the late Sir John Barrow, F. R. S., for so long a
period secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early
life, himself visited the S2)itzbergen seas, as high as
the 80th parallel, we are mainly indebted for the ad-
vocacy and promotion of the several expeditions, and
the investigations and inquiries set on foot in the pres-
ent century, and to the voyages which have been hith-
erto so successfully carried out as regards the interests
of siiience and our knowledge of the Polar regions.

Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsi-
bility for these expeditions to any other quarter than
the several administrations during which they were
undertaken, there can be no question but that these
enterprises originated in Sir John Barrow's able and
zealous exhibition, to our naval authorities, of the
several facts aad arguments upon which they might
best be justified and prosecuted as national objects.
The general anxiety now prevailing respecting the fate
of Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions,^
throws at this moment somewhat of a gloom on the
subject, but it ought to be remembered that, up to the
present period, our successive Polar voyages have,
without exception, given occupation to the energies
and gallantry of energetic seamen, and have extended
the realms of magnetic and general science, at an ex-
pense of lives and money quite insignificant, compared
with the ordinary dangers and casualties of such expe-
ditions, and that it must be a very narrow spirit and
view of the subject which can raise the cry of "Cw«
hono^^ and counsel us to relinquish the honor and peril
of such enterpriseift.

PEOGRFSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEET.

Wili-
s'-;

'III

■i:

It can scarcely be deemed out of place to give here
a short uotice oi the literary labors of this excellent
and talented man, as I am n^t aware that such an out-
line has appeared before.

f" 'v John Barrow was one of the chief writers for the
Quarterly Review, and his articles in that journal
amount to nearly 200 in number, forming, v/hen bound
up, twelve separate volumes. All those relating to
the Arctic Expeditions, &c., which created the great-
est interest at the period they were published, were
from his pen, and consist chiefly of the following pa-
pers, commencing from the 18th volume ; — On Polar
Ice ; On Behring's Straits and the Polar Basin ; On
Ross's Voyage to Baffin's Bay ; On Parry's First Yoy-
age ; Kotzebue's Voyage ; Franklin's First Expedition ;
Parry's Second and Third Voyages, and Attempt to
Reach the Pole ; Franklin's Second Expedition ; Lyon's
Voyage to Repulse Bay ; Back's Arctic Land Expe-
dition, and his Voyage of the Terror. Besides these
he published " A Chronological History of Voyages
to the Arctic Seas," and afterward a second volume,
"On the Voyages of Discovery and Research within
the Arctic Regions."

He also wrote lives of I^ord Macartney, 2 vols. 4to ;
of Lord Anson and Howe, each 1 vol. 8vo ; of Peter
the Great; and an Account of the Mutiny of the
^^'Bounty, (in the "Family Library;") "Travels in
Southern Africa," 2 vols, 4to; and "Travels in
China and Cochin China," each 1 vol. 4:to.

In the "Encyclopedia Britannica" are ten or
twelve of his articles, and he wrote one in the Edin-
burgh Review ^y special request.

In addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for
the press innumerable MSS. of travelers in all parts
of the globe, the study of geography being his great
delight, as is evidenced by his having founded the
Royal Geographical Society of London, which now
holds so high and influential a position in the learned
and scientific world, and has advanced so materially
he progress of discovery and research in all parts of

INTRODUCTION.

the globe Lastl}", Sir John Barrow, not long bofo.a
his death, published his own autobiography, in whith
he records the labors, the toil, and adventure, of a long
and honorable public life.

Sir John Barrow has described, with voluminous cai «
and minute research, the arduous services of all the
chief Arctic voyagers by sea and land, and to his roi
ume I must refer those who wish to obtain more exten
sive details and particulars of the voyages of preceding
centuries. He has also graphically set forth, to use hia
own words, " their several characters and conduct, so
uniformly displayed in their unflinching perseverance
in difficulties of no ordinary description, their patient
endurance of extreme suffering, borne without mur-
muring, and with an equanimity and fortitude of mind
under the most appalling distress, rarely, if ever,
equaled, and such as could only be supported by a
superior degree of moral courage and resignation to
the Divine will — displaying virtues like those of no
ordinary caste, and such as will not fail to excite the
sympathy, and challenge the admiration of every right-
feeling reader."

Hakluyt, in his " Chronicle of Voyages," justly ob-
serves, that we should use much care in preserving the
memories of the worthy acts of our nation.

The different sea voyages and land journeys of the
present century toward the North Pole have redounded
to the honor of our country, as well as reflected credit
on the characters and reputation of the officers engaged
in them ; and it is to these I confine my observations.

The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has
been slow but progressive, and much still within the
limits of practical navigfition remains yet unex})lored.
The English nation very naturally wish that discov-
eries which were first attempted by the advcnturoua
spirit and maritime skill of tlieir countrymen, should
be finally achieved by the same means.

"Wi! it not," says the worthy 'preacher,' Hakluyt,
"in all posteritie be as great a renown vnto our En-
glish natione, to have bcene tho first discouerers of n

' il

• ! I-'.

I'KOGHESS OF

Bea Loyoiid the North Cape, (neuo. certainely knoweA
before,^ and of a conuenient passage into the huge em-
pire ol Russia by the Baie of St. Nicholas and of the
Kiuer of Duina, as for the Portugales", to have found
a sea beyond the Cape of Buona Esperanza, and so
consequently a passage by sea into the East Indies ? "

I cordially agree with the Quarterly Review, that
* neither the country nor the naval service will ever
believe they have any cause to regret voyages which,
in the eyes of foreigners and posterity, must confer
lasting honor upon both."

The cost of these voyages has not been great, while
the consequences will be permanent ; for it lias been
well remarked, by a late writer, that " the record of
enterprising hardihood, physical endurance, and steady
])erseverance, displayed in overcoming elements the
most adverse, will long remain among the worthiest
memorials of human enterprise."

" How shall I admire, " says Purchas, " your heroic
courage, ye marine worthies, beyond all names of
worthiness ! that neyther dread so long eyther the
presence or absence of the sunne ; nor those foggy
Hijsts, tempestuous winds, cold blasts, snowe and
hayle in the ayre ; nor the unequall seas, which miglit
amaze the hearer, and amate tne beholder, when the
Tritons and Neptune's selfe would quake with chilling
feare to behold such monstrous icie ilands, renting
themselves with terror of their own massines, and dis-
dayning otherwise both the sea's sovereigntie and the
Bunne's hottest violence, mustering themselves in those
watery plaines where they hold a continual civill
warre, and rushing one upon another, make windee
and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares of
others, while they rent themselves with crashing and
splitting their congealed armors."

So thickly are the Polar seas of the northern hemi-
sphere clustered with lands, that the long winter months
Ber7e to accumulate filed ice to a prodigious extent, 89
as to form an almost 'mpenetrable barrier of hypet
iaorean frost — . .

INTRODUCTION.

• A cryntal pavement by the breath of Heaven
Oemented firm."

Although there are now no new continente left to
discover, our intrepid British adventurers are but too
ono-er to achieve the bubble reputation, to hand down
their names to future ages for patient endurance, zeal,
and enterprise, hy explorations of the hidden mys-
teries of —

* the frigid zone.
Where, for relentleas months, continual night
Holds o'er the glittering waste her starry light ; "

by undergoing perils, and enduring privations
dauj^ers which the mind, in its reflective mom

and

moments,

shudders to contemplate.

It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold,
and so limited the summer, and consequently so' short
the time allowed for a transit within the Arctic circle,
from Baffin's Bay to Behring's Straits, that a passage,
even if discovered, will never be of any use as a chan-
nel. It is net likely that tnese expeditions would ever
have been persevered in with so much obstinacy, had
the prospects now opening on the world of more ])rac-
ticable connections with the East been known forty
years ago. Hereafter, when the sacred demands of
humanity have been answered, very little more wiU
\)e heard about the northwest passage to Asia; which,
if ever found, must be always hazardous and pro-
tracted, when a short and qui#k one can be accom-
plished by railroads through America, or canalb across
the Isthmus.

A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of
land and ocean on this our globe has, in all ages and
by all countries, been considered one of the most im-
portant desiderata, and one of the chief features of
popular information.

But to no country is this knowledge of such prac-
tical utility and of such essential imi)ortance, as to a
maritime nation like Great Britain, whose mercantile
marine visits every port, whose insular position ren-
ders her completely dependen upon distant quarters
8

PROGRESS OF ARCmO DTSCOYER"T.

'li '

ik'

fr 1

for half the necessary supplies, whether of food or lux
nry, which her native population consume, or which
the arts and manufactures, of which she is the empori
urn, require.

With a vast and yearly increasins^ dominion, cover
ing almost every region of the habitable globe, — the
chart of her colonies being a chart of the world in out-
line, sweeping the globe and touching every shore, — it
becomes necessary tliat she slioiild keep pace with the
progress of colonization, by enlarging, wherever pos-
sible, her maritime discoveries, completing and veri-
fying;; our nautical surveys, improving her meteorologi-
cal researches, 0])ening up new and speedier periodical
pathways over the oceans which were formerly trav-
ersed with so much danger, doubt, and difficulty, and
maintaining her superiority as tlie greatest of maritime
nations, by sustaining that higli and distinguished rank
for naval eminence which has ever attached to the
Bfitish name.

The arduous achievements, however, of her nautical
discoveries have seldom been appreciated or rewarded
as they deserved. She loads her naval and military
heroes — the men who guard her wooden walls and
successfully fight lier battles — with titles and pen-
sions ; she heaps upon these, and deservedly so, prince-
ly remuneration and all manner of distinctions; but
for the heroes whose patient toil and protracted endu
ranee far surpass the turmoil of war, who peril thei»
lives in the cause of science, many of whom fall vie
tims to pestilential climes, famine, and the host of dan
gers which environ the voyager and traveler iu uuea
plored lauds and unknown seas, she has only a place ii*
the niche of fame.

What honors did England, as a maritime nation, con-
fer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes, — a man
whoso life was sacrificed for his country? His widow
had an annuity of 200^,j and his surviving childrou
25^. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to
the most eminent of her naval discoverers, before
whom Cabot, Drake, Frobisher, Magellan, Anaori, and

INTRODUCTIOIC.

• the arctic adventurers, Iludson and Baffin, — although
all eminent for their discoveries and the important
services they rendered to the cause of nautical sci-
ence, — sink into insignificance I If we glance at the
results of Cook's voyages we find that to him we are
indebted for the innumerable discoveries of islands and
colonies planted in the Pacific ; that he determined
the conformation, and surveyed the numerous bays
and inlets, of New Holland ; established the geogra-
phical position of the northwestern shores of America ;
ascertained the trending of the ice and frozen shores to
the north of Behring's Straits ; approached nearer the
South Pole, and made more discoveries in the Austra-
lian regions, than f\\l the navigators who had preceded
him. On the very shores of their vast empire, at the
extremity of Kamtschatka, his active genius first
taught the Russians to examine the devious treudings
of the lands which border the Frozen Ocean, in the
neighborhood of the Arctic circle. He explored both
the eastern and western coasts above Behring's Straits
to so high a latitude as to decide, beyond doubt, the
question as to the existence of a passage round the two
continents. He showed the Russians how to navigate
the dangerous seas between the old and the new
world ; lor, ae Coxe has remarked, " before his time,
every thing was uncertain and confused, and though
they had undoubtedly reached the continent of Amer-
ica, yet they had not ascertained the line of coast, nor
the separation or vicinity of the two continents of Asia
and America." Coxe, certainly, does no more than
justice to his illustrious countryman when he adds,
" the solution of this important problem was reserved
for our great navigator, and every Englishman must
exult that the discoveries of Cook were extended fur
ther in a single expedition, and at the distance of half
the globe, than the Russians accomplished in a long
series of years, and in a region contiguous to their own
enipire."

Look at "Wed dell, again, a private trader in seal*
skins, who, in a tVail bark of 160 tons, made important

PROGRESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERr.

discoyeries in tho Antarctic circle, and a yo7as;e of
greater length and peril, through a thousand mifea of
ice. than had previously been performed by any navi-
gator, paving the way for the more expensively fitted
expedition under Sir James Ross. Was Weddell re-
munerated on a scale commensurate with his importan
services ?

Haifa century ago the celebrated Bruce of Kinnaird,
by a series of soundings and observations taken in the
Red Sea, now the great highway of overland eastern
traffic, rendered its navigation more secure and punc-
tual. How was he rewarded by the then existing min
istry ?

Take a more recent instance in the indefatigable
energy of Lieutenant Waghorn, R. N., the enterprising
pioneer of the overland route to India. What does not
the commerce, the character, the reputation, of his
conntry owe to his indefatigable exertions, in bringing
the metropolis into closer connection with her vast and
important Indian empire ? And what was the reward
he received for the sacrifices he made of time, money,
health and life ? A paltry annuity to himself of lOOZ.,
and a pension to his widow of 251. per annum 1

Is it creditable to her as the first naval power of the
world that she should thus dole out miserable pittances,
or entirely overlook the successful patriotic exertions
and scientific enterprises and discoveries of private
adventurers, or public commanders ?

The attractions of a summer voyage along the bays
and seas where the sun shines for four months at a time,
exploring the bare rocks and everlasting ice, with no
companion but the white bear or the Arctic fox, may
be all very romantic at a distance ; but the mere thought
of a winter residence there, frozen fast in some solid
ocean, with snow a dozen feet deep, the thermometer
ranging from 40° to 60° below zero, and not a glimpse
of the blessed sun from November to February, is
enough to give a chill to all adventurous notions. But
the officers and men engaged in the searching expedi-
tions after Sir John Franklin hav« calmly weighed all

I M- :

riBST VOYAGE OF CAPTaIN ftOSS.

ttiese difficulties, and boldly g >ne forth to encounter
the perils and dangers of these icy seas for the sake of
their noble fellow-sailor, whose fate has been so long a
painful mystery to the world.

It has been truly observed, that " this is a service
for which all officers, however brave and intelligent
they may be, are not equally qualified ; it requires a
peculiar tact, an inquisitive and persevering pursuit
after details of fact, not always interesting, a contempt
of danger, and an enthusiasm not to be damped by
ordinary difficultiefl."

The records which I shall have to give in these pages
of voyages and travels, unparalleled in their perils,
their duration, and the protracted sufferings which
many of them entailed on the adventurers, will bring
out in bold relief the prominent characters who have
figured in Arctic Discovery, and whose names will
descend, to posterity, emblazoned on the scroll of fame,
for their bravery, their patient endurance, their skill,
aud, above all, their firm trust and reliance on that
Almighty Being who, although He may have tried
them sorely, has never utterly forsaken them.

Oapt. John Ross's Voyage, 1818.

Ijt 1818, His Royal Highness the Prince Regent
having signified his pleasure that an attempt should
be made to find a passage by sea between the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans, the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty were pleased to fit out four vessels to pro-
ceed toward the North Pole, under the command of
Captain John Ross. No former expedition had been
fitted out on so extensive a scale, or so completely
equipped in every respect as this one. The circum.
stance which mainly led to the sending out of these
vessels, was the open character of the bays and seas
in those regions, it having been observed for the pre-
\i<^us threa years that very unusual quantities of the
polar ice had floated down into the Atlantic. In the

PROORK88 OF AKCTIO DTSOOVHRT.

ill

• t

year 1817, Sir John Barrow relates that the eastern
coast of Greenland, which had been shut up with ice
for four centuries, was found to be accessible from th©
70th to the 80th degree of latitude, and the interme-
diate sea between it and Spitzhergen was so entirolj'
open in the latter parallel, tnat a Hamburgh ship had
actually sailed along this track.

On the 15th of January, 1818, the four ships were
put in commission — the Isabella, 385 tons, and the
Alexai der, 252 tons — under Captain Ross, to proceed
up the middle of Davis' Strait, to a high northern lati-
tude, and then to stretch across to the westward, in
the hope of being able to pass the northern ext remity
of America, and reach Behring's Strait by that route.
Those destined for the Polar sea were, the Dorothea,
382 tons, and the Trent, 2id tons, which were ordered
to proceed between Greenland and Spitzbergen, and
seek a passage through an open Polar sea, if such
ehould be found in that direction.

I shall take these voyages in the order of their pub-
lication, Ross having given to the world the account
of his voyage shortly after his return in 1819 : while
the narrative of the voyage of the Dorothea and Trent
was only published in 1843, by Captain Beechey, who
served as Lieutenant of the Trent, during the voyage.

The following were the officers, &c., of the ships
ander Captain Ross : —

Isabella.

Captain — John Ross.

Lieutenant — W. Robertson.

Purser — "W. Thom.

Surgeon — John Edwards.

Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley.

Admiralty Midshipmen — A. M. Skene and James

Clark Ross.
Midshipman and Clerk — J. Bushnan.
Greenland Pilots — B. Lewis, master; T. "Wilcox.

mate.
Captain (now Colonel) Sabine, R. A.

FIEST VOYAGE. OF CAPTAIN K088.

,mes

COIL

45 I'tiiy officers, seamen, and marines.
Whole complement, 67.

Alexander.

Lieutenant and Commander — William EdwarO

Pftr/j, (now Captain Sir Edward.)
LicutGoant — H. II. Itoopner, (a first rate artist.)
Purser — W. II. Hooper.
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; J. Philips

mate.
Admiralty Midshipmen — P. Bisson and J. Nius.
Assistant Surgeon — A. Fisher.
Clerk — J. liaise.
28 petty officers, seamen, &c.

Whole complement, 37.

On the 2d of May, the four vessels being reported
fii for sea, rendezvoused in Brassa Sound, Shetland,
and the two expeditions parted company on the follow-
ing day for their respective destinations.

On the 26tH, the Isabella fell in with the first ice-
berg, which appeared to bo about forty feet high and

thousand feet long. It is hardly possible to imagine
a..y thing more exquisite than the variety of tints which
these icebergs display ; by night as well as by day they
glitter with a vividness of color beyond the power of
art to represent. While the white portions have the
brilliancy of silver, their colors are as various antl
splendid as those of the rainbow; their ever-changing
disposition producing effects as singular as they are
new and interesting to those who have not seen them
before.

On the 17th of June, they reached Waygatt Sound,
beyond Disco Island, where they found forty-five
whalers detained by the ice. Waygatt Island, from
observations taken on shore, was found to be 6° longi-
tude and 30 miles of latitude from the situation as laid
down in the Admiralty Charts.

They were not able to get away from here till the
20th, when the ice began to break. By cutting passages

^B&Ui(B)Slii OF AAvniO OiSOOVBUT.

-v-

through the ice, and by dint of towing and warping,
a slow progress was made with the ships until the
17th of July, when two ice-floes closing in upon them,
threatened inevitable destruction, and it was only by
the greatest exertions that they hove through into open
water. The labors of warping, towing, and tracking
were subsequently very severe. This tracking, al
though hard work, afforded great amusement to the
men, giving frequent occasion for the exercise of their
wit, wnen some of the men occasionally fell in through
holes covered with snow or weak parts of the ice.

Very high mountains of land and ice were seeu to
the north side of the bay, which he named Melville's
Bay, forming an impassable barrier, the precipices
next the sea oeing from 1000 to 2000 feet high.

On the 29th of June, the Esquimaux, John Sacheuse,
who had accompanied the expedition from England as
interpreter, was sent on shore to communicate with
the natives. About a dozen came off to visit the ship,
and, after being treated with coffee and biscuit in the
cabin, and having their portraits taken, they set to
dancing Scotch reels on the deck of the Isabella with
the sailors.

Captain Koss gives a pleasant description of this
scene — " Sacheuso's mirth and joy exceeded all
bounds* ; and with a good-humored omciousness, justi-
fied by the important distinction which his superior
knowledge now gave him, he performed the office of
master of the ceremonies. An Esquimaux M. 0. to a
ball on the deck of one of H. M. shqjs in the icy seas
of Greenland, was an office somewhat new, but Nash
himself could not have performed his functions in a
m. ner more appropriate. It did not belong even to
Nash to combine in his own person, like Jack, the dis-
cordant qualifications of seaman, interpreter, draughts-
man, and master of ceremonies to a ball, with those
of an active fisher of seals and a hunter of white bears.
A daughter of the Danish resident (by in Es«[uimaux
woman,) about eighteen years of age, and by far the
best looking of the half-caste group, was the object of

FIB8T VOYAOB OP OAITAIN ROSS.

Jack'«» particular attentions ; which heing observed by
lue of our officers, he gave him a hidy's shawl, orna-
mented witli spangles, as an offering for her acceptance.
He presented it in a most respectful, and not ungraco
ful manner to the damsel, who bashfully took a pew
ter ring from her finger and gave it to him in return,
rewarding him, at the same time, with an eloquent
smile, which could leave no doubt on our Esquimaux^s
mind that he had made an impression on her heart."*
On the 6th of August the little auks (Mergulfus alle,)
were exceedingly abundant, and many were shot for
food, as was also a large gull, two feet five inches in
le^kth, which, when killed, disgorged one of these
little birds entire.

A fortnight later, on two boats being sent from the
Isabella to procure as many of these birds as possible,
for the purpose of preserving them in ice, they re-
turned at midnight with a boat-load of about 1500,
having on an average, killed fifteen at each shot. The
boats of the Alexander were nearly as successful.
These birds were afterward served daily to each man,
and, among other ways of dressing them, they were
found to make excellent soup — not inferior to hare
soup. Not less than two hundred auks were shot on
the 6th of August, and served out to the ships' compa-
nies, among whose victuals they proved an agreeable
variety, not having the fishy flavor that might be ex-
pected from their food, which consists of Crustacea,
Binall fishes, mollusca, or marine vegetables.

On the 7th of August the ships were placed in a
most critical situation by a gale of wind. The Isabella
was lifted by the pressure of ice floes on each side of
her, and it was doubted whether the vessel could long
withstand the grips and concussions she sustained',
" every support threatened to give way, the beams in
the hold began to bend, and the iron water-tanlw
settled together. The two vessels were thrown with
violent concussion against eaob other, the Tje-anchors

• Vol I, p 67. 6&

PBOGKESS OF A^RCTIC DISCOVERT.

It ;

and cables broke one after the other, a boat at the
stern was smashed in the collision, and the masts
were hourly expected to go by the board ; but at this
juncture, when certain destruction was momentarily
looked for, by the merciful interposition of Providence
the fields of ice suddenly opened and formed a clear
passage for the ships."

A singular physical feature was noticed on the part
of the coast near Cape Dudley Digges: — "We have
discovered, (says Ross,) that the snow on the face of
the cliffs prcisents an appearance both novel and inter
esting, being apparently stained or covered by some
substance which gave it a deep crimson color. This
snow was penetrated in many places to a depth of ten
or twelve feet by the coloring matter." There is noth-
ing new, however, according to Barrow, in the discov-
ery of red snow. Pliny, and other writers of his time
mention it. Saussure found it in various parts of the
Alps ; Martin found it in Spitzbergen, and no doubt
it is to be met with in most alpine regions.

In the course of this tedious, and often laborious
progress through the ice, it became necessary to k«ep
the whole of the crew at the most fatiguing work, some-
times for several days and nights without intermission.
When this was the case, an extra meal was served to
them at midnight, generally of preserved meat ; and
it was found that this nourishment, when the mind
and body were both occupied, and the sun continually
present, rendered them capable of remaining without
>3leep, so that they often passed three days in this man-
ner without any visible inconvenience, returning after
a meal to their labor on the ice or in the boats quite
refreshed, and continuing at ^l without a murmur. -

After making hasty and very cursory examinations
of Smith's and Jones' Sounds, Ross arrived, on the
30th of AugHist, off the extensive inlet, named by Baf-
fin, Lancaster Sound. The entrance was perfectly
clear, and the soundings ranged from 650 to 1000 fath
oms. I shall now quote Ross's own observations on
this subject, because from his unfortunate report of »

FIBBT VOYAGE OF CAPTAIW itOS8.

range called the Croker mountainB, stretching across
this Strait, has resulted much of the ridicule and dis-
credit which has attached to his accounts, and clouded
his early reputation — "On the 31st (he says) we dis-
covered, for the first time, that the land extended fi'om
the south two-thirds across this apparent Strait ; but
the fog which continually occ; pied that quarter, ob-
scured its real figure. During the day much interest
was excited on board by the appearance of this Strait.
The general opinion, however, was, that it was only an
inlet. The land was partially seen extending across ;
the yellow sky was perceptible. At a little before four
o'clock A. M., the land was seen at the bottom of the
inlet by the ofiicers of the watch, but before I got on
deck a space of about seven degrees of the compass
was obscured by the fog. The land which I then saw
was a high ridge of mountains extending directly across
the bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely
high in the center. Although a passage in this direc-
tion appeared hopeless, I was determined to explore it
completely. I therefore continued all sail. Mr. Bev-
erly, the surgeon, who was the most sanguine, went up
to the crow's nest, and at twelve reported to me that
before it became thick he had seen the land across the
bay, except for a very short space.

"At three, I went on deck ; it completely cleared for
ten minutes, when I distinctly saw the land round the
bottom of the bay, fonning a chain of mountains con-
nected with those which extended along the north and
south side. This land appeared to be at the distance
of eight leagues, and Mr. Lewis, the master, and James
llaig, leading man, being sent for, they took its bear-
ings, which were inserted in the log. At this moment
I also SAW a continuity of Ice at the distance of seven
miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other,
betw<*en the nearest cape to the north, which I named
after Sir George "Warrender, and that to the south,
which was named after Viscount Castlereagh. The
mountains, which occup'sd the center, in a north and

8 B*

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PROGRESS OF AROTIO DISOOVERT.

south direction, were named Croker's Mountains, after
the Secretary to the Admiralty."*

They next proceeded to Possession Bay, at the en-
trance of the Strait, where a great many animals were
observed. Deer, fox, ermine, bears, and hares, were
either seen, or proved to be in abundance by their
tracks, and the SKeletou of a whale was found stranded
about 600 yards beyond high-water-mark. Finding, as
lloss supposed, no outlet through Lancaster Strait, the
vessels continued their progress to the southward, ex-
nloring the western coast of Baffin's Bay to Pond's
nay, and Booth's Inlet, discovering the trending of the
hind, which he named North Galloway, and North
Ayr to Cape Adair, and Scott's Bay.

On September the 10th, they landed on an island
near Cape Eglington, which was named Agnes' Monu-
ment. A flaff-staff and a bottle, with an account of
their proceedings was set up. The remains of a tem-
porary habitation of some of the Esquimaux were here
observed, with a fire-place, part of a human skull, a
broken stone vessel, some bones of a seal, burnt wood,
part of a sledge, and tracks of dogs, &c.

While the boat was absent, two large bears swam off
to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles
from the land. They reached the Alexander, and were
immediately attacked by the boats of that ship, and
killed. One, which was shot through the head, unfor-
tunately sank ; the other, on being wounded, attacked
the boats, and showed considerable play, but was at
length secured and towed to the Isabella by the boats
of bot' ships. The animal weighed 11311 lbs., besides
the blood it had lost, which was estimated at 80 lbs
more.

On the following day, Lieut. Parry was sent on shore
to examine an iceberg, which was found to be 4169
yards long, 3869 yards broad, and 61 feet high, being
aground in 61 fathoms. "When thev had ascended to
the top, which was perfectly flat, they found a huA;e

•Tol I,p.241.46.8TaeA

sh(i

VOYAGE OF BUC'HAN AND FRANKLIN.

white bear iu quiet possession of the mass, who, much
to their mortification and astonishment, plunged with-
out hesitation into the sea from the edge of tue preci-
pice, which was fifty feet high.

From careful observation it was found that there was
no such land in the center of Davis' Strait as James'
Island, which was laid down in most of the charts.
Nothing deserving of notice occurred in the subsequent
course of the vessels past Cape Walsingham to Cum-
berland Strait.

The 1st of October having arrived, the limit to which
his instructions permitted him to remain out, lloss
shaped his course homeward, and after encountering a
Revere gale oif Cape Farewell, arrived in Grimsby
Roads on the 14tJi of November. As respects the pur-
pose of Arctic discovery, this voyage may be considered
almost a blank, none of the important inlets and sounds
of Baffin's Bay having been explored, and all that was
done was to define more clearly the land-bounds of
Davis' Strait and Bafiin's Bay, if we except the valu-
able magnetic and other observations made by Captain
Sabine. The commander of the expedition was pro-
moted to the rank of captain on paying off tl e ships in
December, 1818.

The account of his voyage, published by Capt. Ross,
is 0-' tii). most meager and uninteresting description,
auv. "* , J than half filled with dry details of the outfit,
co^', ;f his instructions, of his routine letters and
orders .« 1*^6 oflicers, &c.

BUCHAN AND FbANKIJN.

Dorothea and Trent to Pole, 1818.

In conjunction with the expedition of Captain Jolift
Ross, was that sent out to the coast of Spitzbergen, ana
0. which Captain Beechy has published a most inter-
Crftj {!: account, embellisned with some very elegan»:
ilUisL/aiious from his pencil. The charge of it was
given to Captain D. Buchan, who had, a lew years pre-
viously, conducted a very interesting expedition mtfl

J« I

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Ri I i'i'

III

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4<r

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

tho interior of Newfoundland. The first and most ini
portant object of this expedition was the discovery of
a passage over or as near the Pole, as might be possible,
and through Behring's Straits into the Pacific. But it
was also hoped that it might at the same time be the
means of improving the geography and hydrography
of the Arctic regions, of which so little was at that tune
known, and contribute to the advancement of science
and natural knowledge. The objects to which attention
was specially pointed in the Admiralty instructions,
were the variation an ! iprlination of the magnetic nee-
dle, the intensity of the ^netic force, and how far it
is affected bv atmospheri; i electricity; the tempera-
ture of the air, the dip of the honzon, refraction, height
of the tides, set and velocity of the currents, depths
and soundings of the sea. Collections of specimens to
illustrate the animal, mineral and vegetable kingdoms,
were also directed to be made.
The ofiicers and crew appointed to these vessels were :

Dorothea, 382 tons.

Captain — David Buchan.

Lieutenant — A. Morell.

Surgeon — John Duke.

Assistant Surgeon — W. G. Borland.

Purser — John Jermain.

Astronomer — George Fisher.

Admiralty Mates — C. Palmer and "W". J. Dealy.

Greenland Pilots — P. Bruce, master ; G. Crawfurd,

mate.
46 petty officers, seamen, &c.

Total complement, 56.

Trent, 249 tons.

Lieutenant and Commander — John Franklin.

Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechy, (artist.)

Purser — W. Barrett.

Assistant Surgeon — A. Gilfillan.

Admiralty Mates — A. Reid and George Back

Greenland Pilots — G. Fife, master ; G. Kirby, jjbmi9>

80 petty ofiicers .and seamen.

Total complement 38.

▼t)YA.OB OF BUCHAN AND FBANKLIN.

Having been properly fitted for the service, and ta^
ken on board two years' provisio'js, the ships sailed on
the 25th of April. The Trent had hardly got clear of
the river before she sprang a leak, and was detained in
tie port of Lerwick nearly a fortnight undergoing
, pairs.

On the 18th of May, the ships encountered a severe
i^ale, and under even storm stay-sails were buried gun-
Kvale deep in the waves. On the 24th they sighted
Cherie Island, situated in lat. 74'' 33' N., and long. 17°
10' E., formerly so noted for its fishery, being much
frequented by walrusses, and for many years the Mus-
covy Company carried on a lucrative trade by sending
ih'im to the island for oil, as many as a thousand ani-
oaals being often captured by the crew of a single ship
in the course of six or seven hours.

The progress of the discovery ships through the small
floes and nuge masses of ice which floated in succes-
sion past, was slow, and these, from their novelty, were
regarded with peculiar attention from the grotesque
shapes they assume. The progress of a vessel through
such a labyrinth of frozen masses is one of the most in-
teresting sights that ofier in the Arctic seas, and kept
the officers and crew out of their beds till a late hour
watching the scene. Capt. Beechey, the graphic nar-
rator of the voyage, thus describes the general impres-
sion created : — " There was besMes, on this occasion,
an additional motive for remaining up; verv few of
us had ever seen the sun at midnight, and this night
happening to be particularly clear, his broad red disc,
curiously distorted by refraction, and sweeping majes-
tically along the nortnern horizon, was an object of im-
posing grandeur, which riveted to the deck some of oui
crew, wuo would perhaps have beheld with indifierence
bhe less imposing effect of the icebergs; or it might have
been a combination of both these phenomena ; for it
cannot be denied that the novelty, occasioned by the
floating masses, was materially heightened by the sin-
gular effect produced by the very low altitude at which
tiio sun cast lis fiery beams over the icy surface of tiui

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

iii

gea. The rays were too oblique to illuminate more tLan
the inequalities of the floee, and falling thus partially
on the grotesque shapes, either really assumea by tifa
ice or distorted by the unequal refraction of the atmos-
phere, so betrayed the imagination that it required no
great exertion of fancy to trace in various directions ar-
chitectural edifices, grottos and caves here and there
glittering as if with precious metals. So generally, in-
deed, was the deception admitted, that, in directing
the route of the vessel from aloft, we for awhile deviated
from our nautical phraseology, and shaped our course
for a church, a tower, a bridge, or some similar stnicture^
instead of for lumps of ice, which were usually desig-
nated by less elegant appellations.''

The increasing difficulties of this ice navigation soon,
however, directed their attention from romance to tke
reality of their position, the perils of which soon be-
came alarmingly apparent.

" The streamfi of ice, between which we at first pur-
sued onr serpentine course with comparative ease, grad-
ually became more narrow, and at length so impeded
the navigation, that it became necessary to run the ships
against some of these imaginary edifices, in order to turn
them aside. Even this did not alwavs succeed, as some
were so substantial and immoveable, that the vessels
glanced off to the opposite bank of the channel, and
then became for a time embedded in the ice. Thus cir-
cumstanced, a vessel has no other resource than that of
patientlv awaiting the change of position in the ice, of
which she must take every advantage, or she will settle
bodily to leeward, and become completely entangled.*

On the 26th the ships sighted the southern promon-
tory of Spitzbergen, and on the 28th, while plying to
windward on the western side, were overtaken by a
violent cale at southwest, in which they parted com
pany. The weather was very severe. "The snow fell
in heavy showers, and several tons weight of ice accu-
mulatea about the sides of the brig, (the Trent,) and form
ed a complete casing to the planks, which received ao
additional layer at each plunge of tiie vessel. So groat

VOYA&lfi Uf BDOHJlN and FRAlfKLIU.

indeed, was the accumulation about the bow8, that we
were obliged to cut it away repeatedly with axes to re-
lieve the bow-sprit from the enormous weight that was
attached to it ; and the ropes were so thickly covered
with ice, that it was necessary to beat them with large
sticks to keep them in a state of readiness for any evo-
lution that might be rendered necessary, either by the
appearance of ice to leeward, or by a change of wind."
On the gale abating, Lieutenant Franklin found him-
self surrounded by the main body of ice in lat. 80° N.,
and had much difficulty in extricating the vessel. —
Had this formidable body been encountered in thick
weather, while scudding before a gale of wind, there
v(»uld have been very little chance of saving either the
vessels or the crews. The Trent fortunately fell in with
her consort, the Dorothea, previous to entering the ap-

Jointed rendezvous at Magdalena Bay, on the 3d of
une. This commodious inlet being the first port they
had anchored at in the polar regions, possessed many
objects to engage attention. What particularly struck
them was the brilliancy of the atmosphere, the peace-
ful novelty of the scene, and the grandeur of the vari
ous objects with which nature has stored these unfre-
quented regions. The anchorage is formed by rugged
mountains, which rise precipitously to the n<°iight of
about 3000 feet. Deep valleys and glens occur between
the ranges, the greater part of which are either filled
with immense beds of snow, or with glaciers, sloping
from the summits of the mountainous margin to the
very edge of the sea.

The bay is rendered conspicuous by four huge gla-
ciers, of which the most remarkable, tnough the small-
est in size, is situated 200 feet above the sea, on thj
slope of a mountain. From its peculiar appearance
this glacier has been termed the Hanging Iceberg.

Its position is such that it seems as ii a very small
matter would detach it from the mountain, and precip-
itate it into the sea. And, indeed, large portions of its
front do occasionally break: away and fall with head-
long impetuosity upon the beach, to the great hazard

SSSBB

PROGRESS OF AKCri'IO DlSCOVEBf .

of auy boat that may chance to be near. The largest
of these glaciers occupies the head of the bav, and,
according to Captain Beechey's account, extends I'roin
two to three miles inland. Numerous large rents in its
upper surface have caused it to bear a resemblance to
the ruts left by a wagon ; hence it was named by the
voyagers the "Wagon Way." The frontage of this gla-
cier presents a perpendicular surface of 300 feet in
height, by 7000 teet in length. Mountain masses —

" Whose blocks of sapphire seem to mortal eye
HewQ from cerulean quames in the sky,
With glacier battlements that crowd the spheral^
The slorw creation of six thousand years^
Amidst immensity they tower sublime,
Winter's etemd palace, built by Time."

'At the head of the bay there is a high pyramidal
mountain of granite, termed Rotge Hill, trom the myr-
iads of small birds of that name which frequent its
base, and appear to prefer its environs to every other
part of the narbor. " They are so numerous that we
nave frequently seen an uninterrupted line of them ex-
tending mil half way over the bay, or to a distance of
more than three miles, and so close together that thirty
have fallen at one shot. This living column, on an aver-
age, might have been about six yards broad, and as
many deep ; so that, allowing sixteen birds to a cubic
yard, there must have been nearly four millions of birds
on the wing at one time. The number I have given cer-
tainly seems large ; yet when it is told that the little
rotges rise in such numbers as completely 'to darken
the air, and that their chorus is distinctly audible at a
distance of four miles, the estimate will not be thought
to bear any reduction."

One of their earliest excursions in this bay was an
attempt to ascend the peak of Rotge Hill, "upon which,"
says Captain Beechey, " may now, perhaps, be seen at
the heignt of about 2000 feet, a staff that once carried
a red nag, which was planted there to mark the great-
est height we were able to attain, partly in consequence
of the steepness of the ascent, but mainly on account
of the detached masses of rock wh^'ch a very elight

VOYAQB OF BUOUAN AND FRANKLIN.

rht

matter would displace and hurl dowu the precipitous
declivity, to the utter destruction of him who depended
upon their support, or who might happen to be in
their path below. The latter part of our ascent was,
indeeo, much against our inclination ; but we found it
impossible to descend by the way we had come up, and
were compelled to gain a ledge, which promised the
only secure resting-place we could find at that height.
This we were able to effect by sticking the tomahawks
with which we were provided, into crevices in the rock,
as a support for our feet ; and some of these instru-
ments we were obliged to leave whare they were driven,
in consequence or the danger that attended theii
recovery." During the vessers detention in this har-
bor, the bay and anchorage were completely surveyed.

When the first party rowed into this bay, it was in
quiet possession of herds of walruses, who were so un-
accustomed to the sight of a boat that they assembled
about her, apparently highly incensed at the intrusion,
and swam toward her as though they would have torn
the planks asunder with their tusks. Their hides were
so tough that nothing but a bayonet would pierce them.
The wounds that were inflicted only served to increase
their rag^, and it was with much difficulty they were
kept off with fire-arms. Subsequently the boats went
better prepared and more strongly supported, and
many of these monsters were killed ; some were four-
teen feet in length, and nine feet girth, and of such
prodigious weight, that the boat's crew could scarcely
turn them.

The ships had not been many days at their anchor-
age when they were tnily astonished at the sight of a
strange boat puUingtoward the ships, which was found
to belong to some Kussian adventurers, who were en-
gaged in the collection of peltry and morse' teeth. This
18 9ie last remaining establishment at Spitzbergen still
npheld by the merchants of Archangel.

Although equally sui-priscd at the sight of the ves-
sels, the boat's crew took courage, and after a careful
scrutiny, went on board the Dorothea; Captain Buchan

PROaUK88 OF ARCTlO DISCOVERY,

S '11

h.'^w

fei;

:li

gave them a kind reception, and supplied them with
wliatever tliey wanted ; in return for wliich thej sent
on board, the following day, a side of venison in excel-
lent condition. Wishing to gain some further informa-
tion of these people, an officer accompanied them to
their dwelling at the head of a small cove, about four
miles distant from the bay, where he found a comfort-
able wooden hut, well lined with moss, and stored with
venison, wild ducks, &c.

It is related bv Captain Beechej that it was with ex-
treme pleasure they noticed in this retired spot, proba-
bly the most northern and most desolate habitation of
our globe, a spirit of gratitude and devotion to the Al-
mighty rarely exerciaed in civilized countries. " On
landing from the boat and approaching their residence,
these people knelt upon its tnreshold, and offered up a
prayer with fervor and evident sincerity. The exact
nature of the praver we did not learn, but it was no
doubt one of thanksgiving, and we concluded it was a
custom which these recluses were in the habit of observ-
iiiff on their t. \fe return to their habitation. It may, 9 1
all events, be regarded as an instance of the beneficial
effects which sedusion from the busy world, and a con-
templation of the works of nature, almost invariably
produce upon the hearts of even the most uneducated
part of mankind."

On the 7th of June the expedition left the anchorage
to renew the examination of the ice, and after steering
a few leagues to the northward, found it precisely in
the same state as it had been left on the 2a. In spite
of all their endeavors, by towing and otherwise, the
vessels were driven in a calm by the heavy swell into
the packed ice, and the increasing peril oi their situa
tion may be imagined from, the following graphic de-
Bcription : —

"The pieces at the edge of the pack were at one time
wholly immersed in the sea, and at the next raised far
above their natural line of flotation, while those further
'%iL, being more extensive., were alternately depressed or

VOTAGE OF BUCIIAJ!^ AHV FKANKLIN.

rage
iring

|y ill
jpite

the
J into
[itua

do-

elevated at either extremity as the advancing wave
forced its way along.

"Tlie see-saw motion which was thus produced was
alarming, not merely in appeai'ance, but in fact, and
must have proved fatal to any vessel that had encoun-
tered it ; as floes of ice, several yards in thickness, were
continually crashing and breaKing in pieces, and the
sea for miles was covered with fragments ground so
small that they actually formed a thick, pasty sub-
stance — in nautical language termed, ''lr<i's/i ice' —
which extended to the depth of five feet. Amidst this
giddy element, our whole attention was occ )ied in en-
deavoring to place the bow of tlie vessel, the strongest
part of her frame, in the direction of the most formida-
ble pieces of ice — a maneuver which, though likely to
be attended with the loss of the bowsprit, was yet prefer-
able to encountering the still greater risk of having the
broadside of the vessel in contact with it ; for this would
have subjected her to the chance of dipping her gun-
wale under the floes as she rolled, an accident which,
had it occurred, would either have laid open her side,
or have overset the vessel at once. In either case, the
event would probably have proved fatal to all on board,
as it would have been next to impossible to rescue any
person from the confused moving mass of brash ice
which covered the sea in every direction."

The attention of the seamen was in some degree di-
verted from the contemplation of this scene of diffi-
culty by the necessity oi employing all hands at the
pump, the leak having gained upon them. But, for-
tunately, toward morning, they got quite clear of the
ice.

Steering to the westward to reconnoiter, they fell in,
m longitude 4° 30' E., with several whale ships, and
were informed by them that the ice was quite compact
to the westward, and that fifteen vessels were beset in
it. Proceeding to the northward, the ships passed, on
the 11th of June, Cloven Cliff, a remarkable isolated
rock, which marks the northwestern boundary of Spitz-
bergen, and steered along an intricate channel between

afaOBK

fi^i

t-'fi Tl!!!

iii!

PB00RE8S OP ARCrriO DI8COVEET.

the land and ice ; but, next morning, their further ad
vance was stopped, and the channel by which tlie ves
iels had entered became so completely closed up us to

Sreclude the possibility also of retreating. Lieutenant
eechey proceeds to state —

" The ice soon began to press heavily upon us, and,
to add to our difficulties, we found the water so shallow
that the rocks were plainly discovered under the bot-
toms of the ships. It was impossible, however, by any
exertion on our part, to improve the situations of the
vessels. They were as firmly fixed in the ice as if they
had formed part of the pack, and we could only hope
that the current would not drift them into still shallower
water, and damage them against the ground."

The ships were here hemmed in in almost the same
position where Baffin, Iludson, Poole, Captain Phipps,
and all the early voyagers to this quarter had been
ed.

At- the |;ide turned, the pieces of ico immediately
around the ships began to separate, and some of them
to twist round with a loud grinding noise, urging the
vessels, which were less than a mile from the land, still
nearer and nearer to the beach.

By great exertions the ships were hauled into smaL
bays in the floe, and secured there by ropes fixed to the
ice by means of large iron hooks, called ice anchors.
Shifting the ships from one part of this floe to the other,
they remained attached to the ice thirteen days. As
this change of position could only be eifected by main
force, the crew were so constantly engaged in this har-
assing duty, that their time was divided almost entirely
between the windlass and the pump, until the men at
length became so fatigued that the sick-list was seriously
augmented. During this period, however, the situation
of the leak was fortunately discovered, and the damage
repaired.

An officer and a party of men who left the Dorothea
to pay a visit to the shore, about three or four mileg
distant, lost themselves in the fog and snow, and wan-
dered about for sixteen hours, until, quite overcome

VOYAGE OF nUOHAW AND FItANKLIN.

frith wet, cold and fatigue, they sat down in a state of
despondency, upon a piece of ice, dctonnined to submit
tlioir fate to Providence. Their troubles are thus told

"To travel over ragged pieces of ice, upon whicl:
there were two feet of snow, and often more, sprineiing
from one slippery piece to the other, or, when the cnan-
nels between them were too wide for tliis purpose, fer
rying themselves upon detached tragraents, was a work
whicli it required no ordinary exertion to execute.

"Some fell into the water, and were with difficulty
preserved from drowning by their conxpanions ; while
others, afraid to make l^ny hazardous attempt whatever,
were left upon pieces of ice, and drifted about at the
mercy of tne wmds and tides. Foreseeing the proba-
bility of a separation, they took tlio first opportunity
of dividing, in equal shares, the small qunitity of pro-
vision which they had remaining, as also their stock of
powder and ammunition. They also took it in turns to
tire muskets, in the hone of being heard from the ships."

The reports of the nre-anns were heard by their ship-
mates, and Messrs. Fife and Kirby, the Greenland ice-
masters, ventured out with poles and lines to their
assistance, and had the good fortune to fall in with the

f)arty, and bring them safely on board, after eighteen
lours' absence. They determined in future to rest sat-
isfied with the view of the shore which was afforded
them from the ship, having not the slightest desire to
attempt to approach it again by means of the ic«.

The pressure of the ice agamst the vessels now ho-
came very great.

"At one time, when th^ Trent appeared to be so closely
wedged up that it did not seem possible for her to be
moved, she was suddenly lifted four feei by an enor-
mous mass of ice getting under her keel ; at another,
the fragments of the crumbling floe were piled up
under the bows, to the great danger of the bowsprit.

"The Dorothea was in no less imminent danger, es-
pecially from the point of a floe, which came in contact
with her side, where it remained a short time, and then
glanced off, and became checked by the field to whicli

.ji ii 'tfCDiffl i

mm.

U:l'i^ ^

..I

;Sf:':''i'

■im

fltS'l I i'Mi-

ii'H

PROGKK8S OF ARCTIO DISCOVERT.

she was moored. The enormous pressure to which the
ship had been sulyected was now apparent by the field
being rent^ and its point broken into tVaffraents, wliieh
were srcc':Mly heaped up in a pyramid, tliirty-five feet
in heii^ht, upon tlie very summit of wliich there ap
peared a huge mass, bearing the impression of the
planks and bolts of tlie vessel's bottom."

Availing themselves of a break in the ice, the ships
were moved to an anchorage between the islands con-
tiguous to the Cloven Clifl ; and on the 28th of June,
anchored in fifteen fathoms water, near Yogel Sang.
On the islands they found plenty of game, and eidei*-
d neks.

The island of Vogel Sang alone supplied the crews
with forty reindeer, which were in such high condition
that the fat uj)on the loins of some measured from four
to six inches, and a carcass, ready for being dressed,
weighed 285 pounds. Later in the season, the deer
were, however, so lean that it was rare to meet with any
fat upon them at all.

On the Gth cf July, finding the ic« had been driven
to t\v northwArd, the ships again put to sea, and Capt.
Buchtin determined to prove, by a desperate effort,
what advance it ;v'a8 possible to make by dragging tlie
vessels thrrngh the ice whenever the smallest opening
occurred. This laborious experiment was performed
by fixing large ropes to iron hooks driven into the ice,
and by heaving upon them with the windlass, a party
removing obstructions in the channel "\ ith saws. But
in spite of all their exertions, the most northerly posi-
tion attained was 80° 37' N. Althorgh fastened to the
ice, the ships were now drifted' bodily to the southward
by the prevailing current. They were also much in-
'ured by the pressure of hummocks and fields of ice.

On the 10th of July, Captain Beechey tells ug, the
Trent sustained a squeeze which made her rise four
feet, and heel over five streaks ; and on the 15th and
16th, both vessels suffered considerable damage. "On
that occasion," he says, "we observed a field fifteen
feet in thickness break up, and the pieces pile upon

VOYAGE OF BUC'HAN A>JD FKAJ^KUN. 5 4

each other to a great height, liiitil t jey upset, when they
rolled over with a tremendous crash. 1 'le ice near the
ehipswas piled up above their bulwarks. Fortunat<^.'y,
the vessels rose to the pressure, or they must have had
tlieir sides forced in. The Trent received her greatest
damage upon the quarters, and was so twisted that the
doors of all the cabins flew open, and the panels ol
some started in the frames, while her false stern-post
was moved three inches, and her timbers cracked to a
most serious extent. The Dorothea suffered still more :
some of her beams were sprung, and two planks on the
lower deck were split fore and afl, and doubled up, and
she otherwise sustained serious injury in her hull. It
was in vain that we attempted any relief; our puny
efforts were not even felt, though contmued for eight
hours with unabated zeal ; and it was not until the tide
changed that the smallest effect was produced. When,
however, that occurred the vessels nghted and settled
in the water to their proper draught."

From the 12th to the 19th, they were closely beset
with ice. For nine successive days following this the
crews were occupied, night and day, in endeavoring to
extricate the ships, and regain the open sea. Thinking
he had given the ice a fair trial here, the commander
detennined upon examining its coi dition toward the
eastern coast of Greenland, and in the event of finding
it equally impenetrable there, to proceed round the
south cape ol Spitzbergen, and make an attempt be-
tween that island and Nova Zembla.

On the 30th of July, a sudden gale cme on, and
brought down the main body of the ice upon them, so
that the ships were in such imminent danger that their
only means of safety was to take reftige among it — a
practice which has been resorted to by whalei-s in ex-
treme cases — as their only chance of escaping destruc-
tion.

The following is a description of the preparation
made to withstand the terrible encounter, and the hair-
breadth escape from the dangerp^ : —

" In order to avert the effofta of this as ipnch as pos-
3

jL:: ' -j>!'.CJiaaia ^H

PROGKESS OF AKOTIO DISCOVEET.

■\.\

sible, a cable was cut up into thirty-feet leufftha, ana
these, with plates of iron four feet square, which had
been supplied to us as fenders, together with some
walrus' hides, were hung round the vessels, especially
about the bows. The masts, at the same time, were se*
cured with additional ropes, and the hatches were bat-
tened and nailed down. By the time these precautions
had been taken, our approach to the breakers only left
us the alternative of either permitting the ships to be
drifted broadside against the ice, and so to take their
chance, or of endeavoring to force fairly into it by put-
ting before the wind. At length, the hopeless state of
a vessel placed broadside against so formidable a body
becaiTie apparent to all, and we resolved to attempt
the latter expedient."

Eagerly, but in vain, was the general line of the pack
scanned, to find one place more open than the other.
All parts appeared to be equally impenetrable, and to
present one unbroken line of furious breakers, in which
immense pieces of ice were heaving and subsiding with
the waves, and dashing together with a violence which
nothing apparently but a solid body could withstand,
occasioning such a noise that it was with the greatesi
difficulty the officers could make their orders heard bj'
the crew.

The fearful aspect of this appalling scene is thus
sketched by Captain Beechey : —

" No language, I am convinced, can convey an ade-
quate idea of the terrific grandeur of the effect now pro-
duced by the collision of the ice and the tempestuous
ocean. The sea, violently agitated and rolling its moun-
tainous waves against an opposing body, is at all times
a sublime and awful sight ; but when, in addition, it
encounters immense masses, which it has set in motion
with a violence equal to its own, its effect is prodigi-
ously increased. At one moment it bursts upon these
icy fragments and buries them many feet beneath its
wave, and the next, as the buoyancy of the depressed
body struggles for reascendancy, the water rushes ir
foaming cataracts over its edges ; while every ind^

'I. i

M I..

Il'li'

VOTAGB OF BUCHAN AND FRANKLIN.

J^idual mass, rockinff and labonng in its bed, grinds
against and contends with its opponent, until one is
either split with the shock or nplieaved upon the 3ur-
tkce of the other. Nor is this collision confined to any
particular spot ; it is going on as far as the sight can
reach ; and when from this convulsive scene below, the
eye is turned to the extraordinary appearance of thtf
blink in the sky abo^re, where the unnatural clear-
ness of a calm and silvery atmosphere presents itself,
bounded by a dark, hard line of stormy clouds, such as
at this moment lowered over our masts, as if to mark
the confines within which the efibrts of man would be
of no avail. The reader may imagine the sensation of
awe which must accompany that of grandeur in the
mind of the beholder."

" If ever," continues the narrator, " the fortitude of
seamen was fuirly tried, it was assuredly not less bo on
this occasion ; and I will not conceal the pride I felt in
witnessing the bold and decisive tone m which the
orders were issued by the commander (tho present
Captain Sir John Franklin) of our little vessel, and the
promptitude and steadiness with which ♦hey were exe-
cuted by the crew."

As the laboring vessel flew before the gale, she soon
oeared the scene of danger.

"Each person instinctively secured his own he 1,
and with nis eyes fixed upon the masts, awaited in
breathless anxiety the moment of concussion.

" It soon arrived,-^— the brig, (Trent) cutting her way
through the light ice, came m violent contact with the
main Dody. & an instant we all lost our footing ; the
jnasts bent with the impetus, and the cracking timbers
Q'om below bespoke a pressure which was calculated to
awaken our serious apprehensions. The vessel stag-
gered under the shock, and for a moment seemed to
recoil ; but the next wave, curling up under her coun-
ter, drove he^ about her own length within the margin
of the ioe, where she gave one roll, and was imnicdi-
ately thrown broadside to the wind by the succeeding
wave, which beat furiously agaiust her stem, and

■m

FBOOKESS OF AKOIIO DISCOVSBT.

brought her lee-side in contact with the main body,
leaving her weather-side exposed at the fiame time to
a piece of ice about twice ner own dimenbions. This
mitbrtunate occurrence prevented the vessel penetrat-
ing sufficiently far into the ice to escape the effect of
the gale, and placed her in a situation where she was
assaued on all sides by battering-rams, ^\' I may use
the expression, every one of which contested the small
space which she occupied, and dealt such unrelenting
blows, that there appeared to be scarcely any possibil-
ity of saving her from foundering. Literally tossed
from piece to piece, we had nothing left but patiently
to abide the issue ; for we could scarcely keep our feet,
much less render any assistance to the vessel. The mo-
tion, indeed, was so great, that the ship's bell, which, in
the heaviest gale ot wind, had never stinick of itself,
now tolled so continually, that it was ordered to be
muffled, for the purpose of escaping the unpleasant as
sociation it was calculated to produce.

" In anticipation of the worst, we detennined to at
tempt placing the launch upon the ice under the lee,
and hurried into her such provisions and stores as could
at the moment be ffot at. Serious doubts were reason-
ably entertained of the boat being able to live among
the confiised mass by which we were encompassed; ye*
as this appeared to be our only refuge, we clung to it
with all the eagerness of a last resource."

From the injury the vessel repeatedly received, it
became very evident that if subjected t(» this concus-
sion for any time, she could not hold together long ; the
only chance of escape, therefore, appeared to 'Impend
upon getting before the wind, and penetrating further
into the ice.

To effect this with any probability of success, it be-
came necessary to set more head-sail, though at the
risk of the masts, already tottering with the pressure
of that which was spread. By the expertness ot the
seamen, more sail was spread, and under this additional
pressure of canvass, the ship came into the desired
position, and with the aid of an enormone mass under

VOYAGE OF BUOnAJN AND FRANKLIH.

the stern, she split a small field of ice, fourteen feet in
thickness, whidi had hitherto impeded her pi ogress,
and effected a passage for herself between the pieces.

In this improved position, by carefully placing the
protecting fenders between the ice and the ship's sides,
the strokes were much diminished, and she managed
to weather out the gale, but lost sight of her consort in
the clouds of spray which were tossed about, and the
huge intervening masses of ice among which they were
embayed. On the gale moderating, the ships were for-
tunately got once more into an open sea, although both
disabled, and one at least, the Dorothea, which had
sustained the heavy shocks, in a foundering condition.
For che main object of the expedition they were now
useless, and, both being in a leaky state, they bore up
for Fair Haven, in Spitzbergen. In approaching the
anchorage in South Gat, the Trent bounded over A
sunken rock, and struck hard, but this, after their r»
cent danger, was thought comparatively li^^ht of.

On examining the hulls of the vessels, it was found
they had sustained fi*ightful injuries. The intermediate
lining of felt between the timbers and planks seems to
have aided greatly in enabling the vessels to sustain
tlie repeated powerfal shocks they had encountered.
Upon consulting with his officers. Captain Buchan came
to the opinion that the most prudent course, was to
patch up the vessels for their return voyage. Lieuten-
ant Franklin preferred an urgent request tliat he might
be allowed to proceed in his own vessel upon the inter-
esting service still unexecuted ; but this could not be
complied with, in consequence of the hazard to the
crew of j)roceeding home singly in a vessel so shat-
tered and unsafe as the Dorothea. After refitting, they
put 'i;o sea at the end of August, and reached England
Dy the middle of October.

Franklin's First Land ExPEDmoN, 1819-21.

It-

In 1819, on the recommendation of the Lords of tho
Admiralty, Capt. Franklin was appointed to command

■MP^*M

'¥V

VB06BE8S OF ABOTIO DISOOYEST.

an overland expedition from Hudson's Bay to the north-
ern shores of America, for the purpose of determining
the latitudes and longitudes, and exploring the coast of
the continent eastward from the Coppermine River. Dr
John Richardson, R. N., and two Admiralty Midship
men, Mr. George Back, (who had been out on the polai
expedition, in the previous year, in H. M. S. Trent,) and
Mr. Robert Hood, were placed under his orders. Pre-
vious to his departure from London, Capt. Franklin ob-
tained all the information and advice possible from Sir
Alex. Mackenzie, one of tlie only two persons who had
yet explored those shores. On the 23d of May, the party
embaAed at Gravesend, in the Prince of Wales, bdong-
ing to tlie Hudson's Bay Company, wliich immediately

fot under wei^h in company with her consorts, the Ed-
ystone and Wear. Mr. Back, who was left on shore by
accident in Yarmouth, succeeded in catching the ship at
Stromness. On the ith of August, in lat. 59° 58' N.,
and long. 59° 53' W., they first fell in with large icebergs.
On the following day, the height of one was ascertained
to be 149 feet. After a stormy and perilous voyage they
reached the anchorage at York Flats on the 30th of
August.

On the 9th of September, Capt. Franklin and his party
left York Factory m a boat b^- the way of the rivers and
lakes for Cumberland House, another of the Company's
posts, which they reached on he 22d of October.

On the 19tli of January, Franklin set out in company
with Mr. Back and a seaman named Hepburn, with pro-
visions for fifteen days, stowed in two sledges, on tneii
journey to Fort Chipewyan. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood
and Mr. Con oily accompanied them a short distance.
After touching at different posts of the Company, they
reached their destination safely on the 26th of March,
after a winter's journey of 857 miles. The greatest diffi-
culty experienced by the travelers was the labor of walk-
ing in snow shoes, a weight of between two and three
pounds being constantly attached* to galled feet and
swelled ankles.
On the 13th of July, they were joined by Dr. Richaixi-

FRATTKIJN^ FIBST LAND EXPEDITION.

ffi.
Ik-

I'd-

Bon and Mr. Hood, who had made a very expeditious
journey from Cumljerland House ; they had only one
day's provisions left, the pemmican they had received at
tlio pot.cJ being so mouldy that they were obliged to leave
it behind. Arrangements were now made for tbe^r jour-
ney northward. Sixteen Canadian voyageurs wev^ en-
gaged, and a Chipewyan woman and two interpreters
were to be taken on from Great Slave Lake. The whole
stock of provisions they could obtain before starting was
only sufhcient for one day's supply, exclusive of two bar-
rels of flour, three cases of preserved meats, some choco-
late, arrow-root and portable soup, which had been
brought from England, and were kept as a reserve for the
journey to the coast in the following season; seventy
pounds of deer's flesh and a little barley were all that
the Company's officers could give them. The provisions
were distributed among three canoes, and the party set
oft' in good spirits on the 18th of July. They had to
make an inroad very soon on their preserved meats, for
they were very unfortunate in their fishing. On the
24th of July, however, they were succebsful m shooting
a buffalo in the Salt River, aft;er giving him fourteen
balls. At Moose Deer Island they got supj^lies from
the Hudson's Bay and North West Companies' oflicers,
and on the 27th set out again on their journey, reaching
Fort Providence by the 29th.

Shortly after they had an interview with a celebrated
and influential Indian chief, named Akaitcho, who was
to furnish them with guides. Another Canadian voya-
«>:eur was there engaged, and the party now consisted of
the officers already named, Mr. Fred. Wentzel, clerk of
the N. W. Fur Company, who joined them here, John
Hepburn, the English seaman, seventeen Canadian voy-
ageurs, (one of whom, named Michel, was an Iroquois,)
and three Indian intei-preters, besides the wives oi three
of the voyageurs who had been brought on for the pur-
pose of making clothes and shoes for the men at the
winter establisnment. The whole number were twenty-
nine, exclusive of three children. I give the list of those
whose names occur most frequently in the narrative:

PE0GRE8S OF AKOTIO DISCOVEMT.

J .i4

J. B. Belanger, Peltier, Solomon Belanger, Samandre,
Benoit, Perrault, Antonio Fontano, Beauparlant, Vail-
laut, Credit, Adam St. Germain, interpreter; Augustus
and Junius, Esquimaux interpreters. They bad provis-
ions for ten days' consumption, besides a little chocolate
and tea, viz : two casks of flour, 200 dried reindeer
tongues, some dried moose meat, portable soup, and a
little arrow-root. A small extra canoe was provided for
the women, and the journey for the Coppermine River
was commenced on the 2d of August. The party met
with manv hardships — were placed on short diet — and
some of the Canadians broke out into open rebellion,
refusing to proceed farther. However, they were at last
calmed, and arrived on the 20th of August at Fort En-
terprise, on Winter Lake, which, by the advice of their
Indian guides, they determined on making their winter
quarters. The total length of the voyage from Chipe-
wyan was 552 miles; and after leaving Fort Providence,
they had 21 miles of portage to pass over. As the men
had to traverse each portage with a load of 180 lbs.,
and return three times light, they walked, in the whole,
upward of 150 miles^

In consequence of the refusal of Akaitcho and his
pai'ty of Indians to guide and accompany them to the
sea, because, as they alledged, of the approach of win-
ter, and the imminent danger. Captain Franklin was
obliged to CtLandon proceeding that season down the
river, and contented himself with dispatching, on the
29th, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood, in a light canoe, with
St. Germain as interpreter, eight Canadians, and one
Indian, furnished with eight days' provisions — all that
could be spared.

They returned on the 10th of September, after hav
ing reached and coasted Point Lake. In the mean time^
Franklin and Richardson, accompanied by J. Hepburn
and two Indians, also made a peoestrian excursion tow-
ard the same quarter, leaving on the 9th of September,
and retui'ning on the fourteenth. The whole party
spent a long winter of ten months at Fort Enterprise,
depending upon the fish they could catch, and the sno
cess of their Indiai. hunters, for food.

franklin's FIliST LAND EXPEDITION.

Ms
the
in-
"was
the
the
Iwith
one
that

On the 6th of October, the officers quitted their tents
for a good log house which had been Duilt. TUe clay
with which the walls and roof were plastered, had to
be tempered before the fire with water, and froze as it
was daubed on ; but afterward cracked in such a man-
ner, as to admit the wind from every quarter. Still
the new abode, with a good fire of fagots in the capa-
cious clay-built chimney, was considered quite comfort-
able when compared with the chilly tents.

The reindeer are found on the banks of the Copper-
mine River early in May, as they then go to the sea-
coast to bring forth their young. They usually retire
from the coast in July and August, rut m Octouer, and
shelter themselves in the woods during winter. Before
the middle of October, the carcasses of one hundred
deer had been secured in their store-house, together with
one thousand pounds of suet, and some dried meat ;
and eighty deer were stowed away at various distances
from their house, en cache. This placing provisions
"en cache," is merely burying and protecting it from
wolves and other depredators, by heavy loads of wood
or stone.

On the 18th of October, Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel,
accompanied by two Canadian voyageurs, two Indians
and their wives, set out for Fort rrovidence to make
*he necessary arrangements for transporting the stores
they expected from Cumberland House, and to see if
some further supplies might not be obtained from the
establishments on Slave Lake. Dispatches for Eng-
land were also forwarded by them, detailing the pro-
gress of the expedition up to this date. By the ena of
the month the men had also completed a house for
themselves, 34 feet by 18. On the 26th of October,
Akaitcho, and his Inaian party of hunters, amounting
with women and children to forty souls, came in, owing
to the deer having migrated southward. This added
to the daily number to be provided for, and by this time
their ammunition was nearly expended.

The fishing failed as the weather became more severe,
und was given up on the 5th of November. About

w&MiHlMlHUHMaMMaM

PU00UKS8 OF ARuTIO DISCOVKBT.

.■I

..|4 ,,,.,,;!

ini!:i|iJ

1200 white fish, of from two to three pounds, had been
procured during the season. The tish froze as they
were taken from the nets, becoming in a short time a
solid mass of ice, so that a blow or two of the hatchet
would easily split them open, when tlie intestines migl»t
be removed in one lump. If thawed before the hre,
even after beinff frozen for nearly two days, the fish
would recover their animation.

On the 23d of November, tliey were gratified by the
appearance of one of the Canadian voyageurs who had
set out witli Mr. Back. His locks were matted wuth
snow, and he was so encrusted with ice from head to
foot, that they could scarcely recognize hira. He re-
ported that they had had a tedious and fatiguing jour-
ney to Fort Providence, and for some days were desti-
tute of provisions. Letters were brought from England
to the preceding April, and quickly was the packet
thawed to get at the contents. The newspapers con-
veyed the intelligence of the death of George 111. Tlie
advices as to the expected stores were disneartening ;
of ten bales of ninety pounds each, five had been l^i't
by some mismanagement at the Grand Rap'd on tlw
Sattkatchawan. On the 28th of November, St. Ger-
main the interpreter, with eight Canadian voyageurs,
and four Indian hunters, were sent otf to bring up the
stores fi'om Fort Providence.

On the 10th of December, Franklin managed to get
rid of Akaitcho and his Indian party, by representing
to them the impossibility of maintaining them. The
leader, however, left them his mother and two female
attendants; and old Kaskarrah, the guide, with his wife
and daughter, remained behind. This daughter, who
was designated " Green Stockings," fiom her dress, was
considered a great beauty by her tribe, and although
but sixteen, had belonged successively to two husbands,
and would probably have been the wife of many more,
if her mother had not required her services as a nurse.

Mr. Hood took a good likeness of the young laoy,
but hor mother was somewhat averse to her sitting for
it, fearing that " her daughter''s likeness would indnc»

FRANKLIN S FIIDST LAND KXl'KDITION.

get

ing

The

male

wife

who

was
ough
■iiids,
nore,
urse.
laay,
g for

due©

tho Great Chief who resided in England to sead for tho
original 1 "

The diet of the party in their winter abode consisted
almost entirely of reindeer meat, varied twice a weeks
by lish, and occasionally by a little flour, but they had
no vegetables of any kind. On Sunday morning they
had a cup of chocolate ; but their greatest luxury was
tea, which they regularly had twice a day, although
without sugar. Candles were formed of reindeer rat
and strips of cotton shirts; and Hepburn acquired con-
siderable skill in the manufacture ot soup from the wooil
ashes, fat and salt. The stores were anxiously looked
for, and it was hoped they would have arrived by New
Year's Day, (1821,) so as to have kept the festival. As
it was, they could only receive a little flour and fat, both
of which were considered great luxuries.

On the 15th, seven of the men arrived with two kegs
of rum, one barrel of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two
rolls of tobacco, and some clothing.

" They had been twenty-one days on their march from
Slave Lake, and the labor they underwent was eufli*
eiently evinced by their sledge collars having worn out
the shoulders of their coats. Their loads weighed from
sixty to ninety pounds each, exclusive of their bedding
and provisions, which at starting must have been at least
as much more. We were much rejoiced at their arrival,
and proceeded forthwith to pierce the spirit cask, and
issue to each of the household the portion of mm which
liad been promised on the first day of the year. The
spirits, which were proof, were frozen; but after stand-
ing at the fire for some time they flowed out, of the
consistence of honey. The temperature of the liquid,
even in this state, was so low as instantly to convert
into ice the moisture a\ hich condensed on the surface of
the dram^lass. The fingers also adhered to the glass,
and woulddoubtless have been speedily frozen had they
been kept in contact with it ; yet each of the voyagenra
swallowed his dram without experiencing the sli^test
inconvenience, or complaining of toothacne."

It appeared that the CaTiadians had tapped the ruia

C* .

wf^mmlimmm

PROaUEBS OF ARCrnO DISGOVURT.

;.j..l

I'^iii!!!

i i

Urn

\rM

111

i'li'l ■

cask on their journey, and helped themselves rathef
freely.

On the 27t£i, Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain arrived,
with two Esquimaux interpreters who had been engaged,
possessed ot euphonious names, representing the belly
and the ear, but which had been Anglicised into Au-
gustus and Junius, being the months they had respec-
tively arrived at Fort Churchill. The former spoke
English. They brought four dogs with them, which
proved of great use during the season in drawing in
wood for fuel.

Mr. Back, at this time, the 24th of December, had
gone on to Chipewyan to procure stores. On the 12th
of February, another party of six men was sent to Fort
Providence to bring up the remaining supplies, and
these returned on the 5th of March. Many of the each <>a
of meat which had been buried early in tne winter were
found destroyed by the wolves ; and some of these aiii
mals prowled nightly about the dwellings, even ventur
ing upon the roof of their kitchen. The rations were
reduced from eight to the short allowance of five ounces
of animal food per day.

On the 17th of March, Mr. E«»ck returned from Fort
Chipewyan, after an absence of nearly five moutlis,
dunng which he had performed a journey on foot of
more than eleven hundred miles on snow shoes, with
only the slight shelter at night of a blanket and a deer
skin, with the thermometer frequently at 40° and once
at 57°, and very often passing several days without
food.

Some very interesting traits of generosity on the part
of the Indians are recorded by ]y&. Back. Often they
gave up and would not taste of fish or birds which they
caught, with the touching remark, " We are accustomed
to starvation, and you are not."

Such passages as the tbllowing often occur in his
narrative : — ^" One of our men caught a fish, which, with
file J distance of some weed scraped from the rocks,
(t^ip'*> de roche) which forms a glutinous substance, made
us a f olerable supper ; it wai not of the most choice kind,

VBANELIN 8 FIBST IJkND EIPEDITION.

vet ffood enough for hungry men. While wo were eat-
ing it, I perceived one ot the \'^omer. busily employed
I craping an old skin, tlie contents of which her husband
p.'esented us with. Thev consisted of pounded meat,
lat, and a greator proportion of In^l fan's and deer's hair
than either ; and, though such a mixture may not appear
very alluring to an iSiglish stomach, it was thought a
great luxury atler three days' privation in these cheer-
less regions of America."

To return to the proceedings of Fort Enterprise. On
tlie 23d of March, tne last of the winter's stock of deer's
meat was expended, and the party were compelled to
consume a little pounded meat, which had been saved
for making pemmican. The nets scarcely produced any
fish, and their meals, which had hitherto been scanty
enough, were now restricted to one in the day.

The poor Indian families about the house, consisting
principally of sick and infirm women and children, su?
r red even more privation. They cleared away the
flr w on the site of the Autumn encampment to look tor
bones, deer's feet, bits of hide, and other oflal " When
(savs Franklin) we beheld them gnawing the pieces of
iiicfe, and pounding the bones for the purpose ot extract-
ing some nourishment from them by boiling, we regret-
ted our inability to relieve them, but little tnought that
we should ourselves be afterward driven to the neces-
sity of eagerly collecting these same bones, a second
time from tlie dung-hill.''

On the 4th of June, 1821, a first party set off from
the winter quarters for Point Lake, and the Coppermine
River, under the charge of Dr. Richardson, consisting,
in all, voyageurs and Indians, of twenty-three, exclusive
of children. Each of the men carried about 80 lbs., be-
sides his own personal baggage, weighing nearly as
much more. Some of the paitv dragged their loads on
sledges, others preferred carrying their burden on their
backs. On the 13th, Dr. Richardson sent back most of
the men ; and on the 14th Franklin dispatched Mr.

Wontzel and a party with the ci.noes, which had been
repaired. Following the water-course as far as j mcti

irn'-iriiiiiriiiiii

PKOORUS8 OF Aitcrrn discovert.

cable to Winter Lake, Franklin .'»llov.'eJ hunhQit «ritii
Hepburn, tl»ree Canadians, two Indian hunters, and
the two Esquimaux, and joined Dr. Kiehardsun on tl.e
a2d. On tUGf 25th they all roBunied their journey, and,
as they proceeded down the river, were fortunate in
killing, occasionally, several musk oxen.

On the 16th they got a distinct view of tlie sea from
the summit of a liill ; it appeared clioked with ice and
full of islands. About this tiine they fell in with small
parties of Esquimaux.

On the 19th Mr. Weutzel departed on his retuin foi
Slave Lake, taking with him tour Canadians, who had
been discharged for the purpose of reducing the ex})cn-
diture of provisions as much as possible, ana dispatches
to be forwarded to England, lie wat^ also instructed
to cause the Indians to deposit a relay of provisions at
Fort Enterprise, ready for the party slioulu they return
that way. The remainder of the party, inclucfing otli-
cers, amounted to twenty persons. The distance that
had been traversed from 1 ort Enterprise to the mouth
of the river/was about 334 miles, and the canoes had to
be dragged 120 miles of this.

Two conspicuous capes were named by Franklin after
llearne rnd Mackenzie ; and a river which falls into the
gea, to thf vestward of the Coppermine, he called after
his Companion, Richardson.

On the 21st of July, Franklin and his party embarked
in their two cane 38 to navigate the Polar Sea, to the
eastward, having with them provisions for fifteen days.

On the 25th they doubled a bluff cape, which was
named after Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty. An open-
ing on its eastern side received the appellation of Inman
Harbor, and a group of islands were called after Pro-
fessor Jameson. Within the nest fortnight, additions
were made to their stock of food bv a few deer and one
or two bears, which were shot. iBeing less fortunate
afterward, and with no prospect of increasing their sup-
ply of provision, the daily allowance to each man wap
limited to a handful of pemmican and a small portion
of portable soup.

FUANKLI>:'ti FlitST f.^ND JCXJ'JjaJlTION.

7Ji

tlie

On the morning of the 5th of August they came to
thti moutli of a river blocked up with ehoals, which
Franklin named after his friend and companion Back.

The time Hpeut in exploring Arctic and Melville
Soiin«lfi and liathuret Inlet, ana the failure of meeting
with Esquimaux from whom provisions could bo ob-
tained, precluded any possibility of reaching liepulso
Bay, a.'id therefore having but a day or two's provisions
left, Franklin considered it prudent to turn back atU»r
reacliing Point Turnagain, naving sailed nearly 600
gc'0gra})hical miles in tracing the deeply indented coast
of Coronation Gulf from the Coppermine River. On
tlie 22d August, the return voyage was commenced,
the boats making for Hood's Kiver by the way of the
Arctic Sound, and being taken as far up the stream as
possible. On the 31st it was found impossible to pro-
ceed with them farther, and smaller canoes were made,
suitable for crossing any of the rivera that might ol>
Rtruct their progress. The weig' t carried by each man
was about 90 lbs., and with this they progressed at the
rate of a mile an hour, including rests.

On the 6th of September, having nothing to eat, the
last piece of pemmican and a little arrow-root having
formed a scanty supper, and bein,^ without the means
of making a fire, they remained in bed all day. A se-
vere snow-storm lasted two days, and the snow even
drifted into their tents, covering their blankets several
inches. " Our suffering (says Franklin) from cold, in a
comfortless canvass tent in such weather, with the tem-
perature at 20°, and rt^ithont fire, will easily be im-
agined ; it was, however, less than that which we felt
froiri hunger. '

Weak from fasting, and their garments stiffened with
the frost, after packing their frozen tents and bedclothes
the poor travelers again set out on the 7th.

After feeding almost exclusively on several species
of Gy rophora, a lichen known as trtjfe de roche^ which
ticiircely allayed the panj^s of hunger, on the 10th " they
gc»t a good meal by killing a musk ox. To skin and
cut u}) the arn'maJ vas the work of a few minutes. The

'I'KOORl'V? OF AKOTIO D1800VKKT.

contents of its Htomjicli were devourod upon tlie apot^
juhI tho raw iiitoHtinos, which were next iitttickcd, wt'ie
pronounced by tlio uiOBt delicato amongnt us to l)c ox-
ccllont."

Wearied and worn ont with toil and suffering, ni.my
of the party got carelees and inditKeront. Ono of rlu!
canoes was broken and abandoned. With an inipiovi-
dence scarcely to be credited, tiiree of the lisiiing-uots
were also thrown away, and the floats buint.

•On the 17th they nuinaged to allay the mngs of hun
ger by eating jiieces of singed hide, and a little tripe de
roche. Tliis and some mosses, with an occasiooal sol-
itary partridge, formed their invariable food ; on wry
many days even this scanty supply could not be uotjiinrd.
and their appetites became ravenous.

Occasionally they picked up pieces of skin, and a
few bones of deer which had been devoured by the
wolves in the previous spring. The bones were i-en-
dcrcd friable by burning, and now and then their old
shoes were added to the repast.

On the 26th they readied a bend of the Coppermine
which terminated in Point Lake. The second cjujot'
had been demolished and abandoned by the bearers on
the 23d, and they were thus left without any means of
water transport across the lakes and river.

On this (fay the carcass of a deer was discovered in
the cleft of a rock, into which it had fallen in the s])riii^r
It was putrid, but little less acceptable to the poor stni-v-
ing travelers on that account; and a fire being kin-
dled a large portion was devoured on tho spot, aiVord-
ing an unexpected lireakfast.

On th(5 first of Oetol>er one of the party, w^ho had
been out IiuntiTig, brought in tlie antlers and backbone
of another deer, which liad been killed in the summer.
The wolves and birds of prey had picked them clean,
bnt there still remained a quantity of the spinal mar-
row, which they had not been able to extract. This,
although putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and
the spme oeing divided into portions was distributee!
equally. "Anei eating the" marrow, (says Franklin,)

FRAKKLIM S FIRST LAND lCXrKI)IT[ON.

which was so acrid a8 to ©xcoriato the lips, we ren-
dered the bones friable by burning, and ate them also."

The Btrenffth of the wliolo party now began to fail.
from the privation and fatigue wlncli they endured. —
Franklin was in a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr.
Hood was also reduced to a peifeet shadow, from the
severe bowel-eonij^aints which the tripe de roche never
failed to give Iiim. Back was so feeble as to require
the support of a stick in walking, and Dr. Kichardson
luid lameness superadded to weakness.

A rude canoe was ctmstructed of willows, covered
with canvass, in which the party, one by one, managed
to reach in safety the soutliern bank of the river on
the 4th of October, and went supperless to bed. On
the following morning, previous to setting out, the
whole party ate the remains of their old shoes, and
whatever scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their
stomachs for the fatigue of the day's journey.

Mr. Hood now broke down, as did two or three more
of the party, and Dr. Kichardson kindly volunteered
to remain with them, while the rest pushed on to Fort
Enterprise for succor. Not being able to find any tripe
fh roclu'^ they drank an infusion of the Labrador tea-
plant {Lcdrum paluat/re^ var. decumhens^imd. ate a
lew morsels of burnt leather for supper. This contin-
ued to be a frequent occurrence.

Others of the party continued to drop down with fa-
tigue and weakness, until thejr were reduced to five
persons, besides Franklin. "Wiien they had no food or
nourishment of any kind, they ^rept under their blank-
ets, to drown, if possible, the gtiawing pangs of hunger
and fatigue by sleep. At length they reached Fort En-
terprise, and to their disappoLitment and grief found
it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no de-
posit of provision, no trace df the Indians, no letter
from Mr. Wentzel to point out where the Indians might
bo found. "It woula be impot-«ible (says Franklin,) to
describe our sensations after .entering this miserable
abode, and discovering how we had been neglected r
tlu; whole narty shed tears, n jt so much for our owu

••'••• 'f¥ifri""iii ill M

PROGRESS OF ARCTriO DISCOVERT.

»l

Irr,

fate as for that of our friends in the rear, whose lives
depended entirely on our sending immediate relief
from this place." A note, however, was found here
from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the house
by another route two days before, and was going in
search of the Indians. If he Was unsuccessful in find-
ing them, he proposed walking to Fort Providence,
and sending succor from thence, but he doubted whether
he or his party could perform the journey to that place
in their present debilitated state. Franklin and his
small party now looked round for some means of pres-
ent subsistence, and fortunately discovered several deer
skins, which had been thrown away during their former
residence here. The bones were gathered from the
heap of ashes ; these, with the skins and the addition
of tripe de roche^ tliey considered would support life
tolerably well for a short time. The bones were quite
acrid, and the soup extracted from them, quite putrid,
excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it was some-
what milder when boiled with the lichen, and the mix-
ture was even deemed palatable with a little salt, of
which a cask had been left here in the spring. They
procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the rooms,
and water for cooking by melting the snow.

Augustus arrived safe after them, just as they were
sitting round the fire eating their supper of singed
skin.

Late on the 13th, Eelanger also reached the house,
with a note fi'om Mr. Back, stating that he had yet
found no trace of the Indians. The poor messenger
was almost speechless, being covered with ice and
nearly fi'ozen to death, having fallen into a rapid, and
for the third time since the party left the coast, narrowly
escaped drowning. After being well rubbed, having
had his dress changed, and some wann soup given
him, he recovered sufficiently to answer the questions
put to him.

Under the impression that the Indians must be on
kheir way to Fort Providence, and that it would be
possible tf overtake them, as they usually traveled

franklin's first land expedition.

slowly with their families, and there beinff likewise a
prospect of killing deer about Reindeer Lake, where
they had been usually found abundant, Franklin de^
terrained to take the route for that post, and sent word
to Mr. Back by Belanger to that effect on the 18th.

On the 20th of October, Franklin set out in com-
pany with Benoit and Augustus to seek relief, having
patched three pairs of snow shoes, and taken some
singed skin for their support. Poltier and Samandre
had volunteered to remain at the house with Adam,
who was too ill to proceed. They were so feeble as
scarcely to be able to move. Augustus, the Esqui-
maux, tried for fish without success, so that their only
fare was skin and tea. At night, composing them-
selves to rest, they lay close to each other for warmth,
but found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced
throu^^h their furnished frames.

On resuming the journey next morning, Franklin
had the misfortune to break his snow-shoes, by falling
between two rocks. This accident prevented him from
keeping pace with the others, and in the attempt he
became quite exhausted ; unwilling to delay their pro-
gress, as the safety of all behind depended on their
obtaining early assistance and immediate supplies,
Franklin resolved to turn back, while the others
pushed on to meet Mr. Back, or, missing him, they
were directed to proceed to Fort Providence. Frank-
lin found the two Canadians he had left at the house
dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low spirited that
he had great difficulty in rallying them to any exer-
tion. As the insides of their mouths had become sore
from eating the bone-soup, they now relinquished the
use of it, and boiled the skin, which mode of dressing
wasfcnnd more palatable than frying it. They haa
pulled down nearly all their dwelling for fuel, to warm
meraselves and cook their scanty meals. The tripe
de roche, on which they had depended, now became
entirely frozen; and what was more tantalizing to
their perishing frames, was the sight of food within
their reach, which they could not procure. " We saw

■MMiiiiB~

PBOOBES8 OF ABOTIO DISOOTEKT.

Ml 'illi

t; *■

(says Franklin) a herd of reindeer sporting on the
river, about half a mile frona the house ; they re*
mained there a long time, but none of the party felt
themselves strong enough to go after them, nor was
there one of us who could have fired a gun without
resting it."

While they were seated round the fire this evening,
iiscoursing about the anticipated relief, the sound of
voices was heard, which was thought with joy to be
ihat of the Indians, but, to their bitter disappoint-
ment, the debilitated frames and emaciated counte-
nances of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn presented
themselves at the door. They were of course gladly
received, although each marked the ravages which fam-
ine, care and fatigue had made on the other. The
Doctor particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of
the voices of his friends, which he requested them to
make more cheerful if possible, unconscious that his
own partook of the same key.

' Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought
to the house. Dr. Richardson tore out the feathei's,
and having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided
it into six portions. Franklin and his three compan-
ions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the
first morsel of fiesh any of them had tasted for thirty-
one days, unless, indeed, the small gristly particles
which they found adhering to the pounded bones may
be termed flesh. Their spirits were revived by this
small supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise
them still higher by the prospect of Hepburn's beiuw
able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen, and
even fired at, several near the house. He endeavored,
too, to rouse them into some attention to the comfort
of their apartment. Having brought his Prayer-book
and Testament, some prayers, psalms, and portions
of scripture, appropriate to their situation, were read
out by Dr. Richardson, and they retired to their
blankets.

Early next morning, the Doctor and Hepburn went
out in search of game ; but though they saw several

FRANKLIN 3 FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

herds of deer, and fired some shots, they were not bo
fortunate as to kill any, being too weak *^o hold their
guns steadily. The cold compelled the former to re-
turn soon, but Hepburn perseveringly persisted until
late in the evening.

" My occupation, (continues Franklin) was to search
for skins under the snow, it being now our object im-
mediately to get all that we could ; but 1 had not
strength to drag in more than two of those which were
within twenty yards of the house, until the Doctor
came and assisted me. We made up our stock to
twenty-six; but several of them were putrid, and
scarcely eatable, even by men suffering the extremity
of famine. Peltier and Samandre continued very
weak and dispirited, and they were unable to cut fire-
wood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious
task to perform after he came back late from hunting."
To the exertions, honesty, kindness, and consideration
of this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is
to be attributed. And I may here mention that Sir
John Franklin, when he became governor of Van
Diemen's Land, obtained for him a good civil appoint-
ment. This deserving man, I am informed by Mr.
Barrow, is now in England, having lost his office,
which, I believe, has been abolished. It is to be
hoped something will be done for him by the govern-
ment.

After their usual supper of singed skin and bone
Boup, Dr. Richardson acquainted Franklin with the
events that had transpired since their parting, particu-
larly with the afflicting circumstances attending the
death of Mr. Hood, and Michel, the Iroquois ; the par-
ticulars of which I shall now proceed to condense from
his narrative.

After Captain Franklin had bidden them farewell,
having no trim de roc he they drank an inftision of the
country tea-plant, which was gr«ateful from its warmtli,
although it afforded no sustenance. They then retired ,
to bed, and kept to their blankets all next day, as tht»
enow drift was so heavy as to prevent their lighting u

tfiitHMiHii

PROGRESS OF ARCHO DISOOVERT.

fire with the green and frozen willows, which wert
their only fuel.

Through the extreme kindness and forethought of
a lady, the party, previous to leaving London, had
been furnished with a small collection of religious
books, of which, (says Richardson,) we still retained
two or three of the most portable, and they proved of
incalculable benefit to us.

" We read portions of them to each other as we lay
iu bed, in addition to the morning and evening service,
and found that they inspired us on each perusal with
so strong a sense ot the omnipresence of a beneficent
God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared
no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with
Cfilmuess, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unre-
strained confidence the past events of our lives, and
dwelling with hope on our future prospects," How
beautiful a picture have we here represented, of true
piety and resignation to the divine will inducing pa-
tience and submission under an unexampled load of
misery and privation.

Michel, the Iroquois, joined them on the 9th of Oc-
tober, having, there is strong reason to believe, mur-
dered two of the Canadians who were with him, Jean
Haptiste Belanger and Perrault, as they were never
seen afterward, and he gave so many ramblinn^ and
contradictory statements of his proceedings, that no
credit could be attached to his story.

The travelers proceeded on their tedious journey by
slow stages. Mr. Hood was much afi^ected with dim
ness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of ex
treme debility', which caused them to move slowly and
to. make frequent halts. Michel absented himself all
day of the 10th, and only arrived at their encampment
near the pines late on the 11th.

He reported that he had been in chase of some deer
which passed near his sleeping place in the morning,
and although he did not come up with them, yet he
found a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of
a deer's horn, and had brought a part of it.

franklin's first land expedition.

Kicbardson adds — "We implicitly believed this
<tory tben, but afterward became aware — from cir-
cumstances, the details of which may be spared — that
it must have been a portion of the body of fiel anger,
or Perrault. A question of moment here presents it-
self—namely, whether he actually murdered these
men, or either of them, or whether he found the bodies
in the snow. Captain Franklin, who is the best able to

i'udge of this matter, from knowing their situation when
le parted from them, suggested the former idea, and
that both these men had been sacrificed ; that Michel,
having already destroyed Belanger, completed bia
crime by Perrault's death, in order to screen himself
from detection."

Although this opinion is founded only on circum-
stances, and is unsupported by direct evidence, it has
been judged proper to mention it, especially as the
subsequent conduct of the man showed that he was
capable of committing such a deed. It is not easy to
assign any other adequate motive for his concealing
from Richardson that rerrault had turned back ; while
his request, over-night, that they would leave him the
hatchet, and his cumbering himself .with it when he
went out in the morning, unlike a hunter, who makes
use only of his knife when he kills a deer, seem to
indicate that he took it for the purpose of cutting up
something that he knew to be frozien.

Michel left them early next day, refusing Dr. Rich-
ardson's offer to accompany him, and remamed out all
day. He would not sleep in the tent with the other
two at night. On the 13th, there being a heavy gale,
they passed the day by their fire, without food. Next
day, at noon, Michel set out, as he said, to hunt, but
returned unexpectedly in a short time. This conduct
surprised his companions, and his contradictory and
evasive answers to their questions excited their sus-
picions still further. He subsequently refused either
to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly manner,
and threatened to leave them. When reasoned wifck
by Mr. Hood, his anger was excited, and he replied it

PKOORKSS OF AKOTIO HISOOVKRT.

was no use hunting — there were no animals, and the;f
had better kill and eat him.

"At this period," observes Dr. Richardson, "we
avoided, as much as possible, conversing upon the
hopeleseness of our situation, and generally endeav-
ored to lead the conversation toward our future pros-
pects in life. The fact is, that with the decay oi out
strength, our minds decayed, and we were no longer
able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that sur-
rounded us. Yet we were calm and resigned to our
fate ; not a murmur escaped us, and wo were punctual
and fervent in our addresses to the Supremo Ijeing."

On the morning of the 20th, they agam urged Michel
to go a-hunting, Uiat he might, if possible, leave thew
some provision, as he intended quitting tiiem next
day, but he showed great unwillingness to y^o out, and
lingered about the lire under the pretense of cleaning
his gun. After the morning service had been read,
Dr. Richardson went out to gather some tripe de roche^
leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the fire-
side, arguing with Michel; Hepburn was employed
cutting fire-wood. "While they were thus engaged,
the treacherous Iroquois took the opportunity to place
his gun close to Mr. Hood, and shoot him through the
head. He represented to his companions that flie de-
ceased had killed himself. On examination of the
body, it was found that the shot had entered the back
part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and
that the muzzle of the gun had been applied so close
as to set fire to the nightcap behind. Michel pro-
tested his innocence of the crime, and Hepburn and
Dr. Richardson dared not openly evince their suspi-
cion of his guilt.

Next day. Dr. Richardson determined on going
straight to the Fort. They singed the hair off a pari
of the buffalo robe that belonged to their ill-fated com
panion, and boiled and ate it. In the course of theii
march, Michel alarmed them much by his gesturej
and conduct, -was constantly muttering to himself, ex
pressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried

FKANRLINS FIRST LAND BXPEDITIOIf.

to ])or9uado thcni to go southward to the woods, where
ho Haid ho could maintain himself all the winter hy
killing deer. " In consoquonco of thin bohavior, and
thu oxproHsioi of his countenance, I requested him
(sayH Richardson) to leave us, and to go to tlie south
ward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-na*
ture ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing
himself from all restraint on the morrow ; and I over
heard him muttering threats against Hepburn, whom
ho o})cnly accused ot having told stories against him,
lie also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of
superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he con-
sidered us to be completely in his power ; and he gave
vent to several expressions of hatred toward the white
people, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten
his uncle and two of Iiis relations. In short, taking
every circumstance of his conduct into consideration,
I came to the conclusion that he would atteniDt to
destroy us on the first opportunity that offered, and
that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his
ignorance of his way to the Fort, but that he would
never suffer us to go thither in company with him.
Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even
an open attack, nor could we by any device es*cape
from him — our united strength was far inferior to his;
and, beside his gun, he was armed with two pistols,
an Indian bayonet, and a knife.

^' In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there
was some tn'pe de roohe, he halted, and said he would
gather it while we went on, and that he would soon
overtake us.

" Hepburn and I were now left together for the first
time since Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with
several material circumstances, which lie had observed
of Michcrs behavior, and which confirmed me in the
opinion that there was no safety for us except in big
death, and he ofiered to be the instrument of it. I de-
termined, however, as I was thoroughly convinced of
the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the whole
responsibility upon myself; and immediately upon Mi

mmm

PROGllRtlS OF ▲RCliU DISOOVBRT.

1 1

cliel^s coining up. I put uu end to his lite by Bhootiuy
biiu through the head with a pistol. Had my own lite
alone beeu threatened," obBorves Richardson, in conclu-
sion, '' 1 would not have purchased it by such a measure,
but I considered myselt as intrusted also with the pro-
tection ot* Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane atten
tions and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me,
that 1 felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own.

" Michel had gathered no t/ipe dc roc/wy and it was evi-
dent to us that ho had halted tor the purpose of putting
his gun in order with the intention of attacking us —
perhaps while we were in the act of encamping.

Persevering onward in their journey as well as the
snow storms and their feeble limbs would permit, they
saw several herds of deer ; but Hepburn, who used to
be a good marksman, was now unaule to hold the gun
straight. Following the track of a wolverine which had
bp*5n dragging something, he however found the spine
vt a deer which it had dropped. It was clean piclced,
and at least one season old, but they extracted the spinal
marrow from it.

A species of cornicularia^ a kind of lichen, was also
met with, that was found good to eat when moistened
and toasted over the fire. They had still some pieces
of singed buftalo hide remaining, and Hepburn, on
one occasion, killed a partridge, after firing several
times at a flock. About dusk of the 29th they reached
the Fort.

" Upon entering the desolate dwelling, we had the
satisfaction of enmracing Capt. Franklin, but no words
can convey an idea of tne filth and wretchedness that
met our eyes on looking around. Our own misery had
stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to
the contemplation oi each other's emaciated figures;
but the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and
sepulchral voices of Captain Franklin and those with
him were more than we could at first bear."

Thus ends the narrative of Richardson's journey.

To resume the detail of proceedings at the Fort. On
the 1st of November two of the Canadians, Peltier and
Samandre, died fi'om sheer exliaustion.

■finTifln-

franklin's FIU8T LAND EXl'KDI'nON.

On tlie 7tli of Nuveniber tliey were relieved truiii
tlioir priviitiona and suttbrings by the arrival of three
Indians, bringing a Hupplv uf dried meat, 8onie fat, and
a few ton^neH, wliieli nad been sent off hy Back with
all hante from Akaiteho's encamumcnt on the 5th.
These Indians nursed and attended them with the
greatest care, cleansed the houHC, collected fire- wood,
and studied every meaus for their general comfort. Their
sufferings were now at an end. On the 2(Jth of Novem-
ber they arrived at the encampment of the Indian chief,
Akaitcho. On the (Jth of December Belanger and an-
other Canadian arrived, bringing further supplies, and
letters from England, from Mr. Back, and tueir former
companion, Mr. Wentzel.

The dispatches from England announced the success*
ful termination of Captain Parry's voyage, and the pro-
motion of Captain Franklin, Mr. Back, and of poor Mr.
Hood.

On the 18th they reached the Hudson's Bay Compa-
ny's estal)lishment at Moose Deer Island, where they
joined their fi'iend Mr. Back. They remained at Fort
Chipewyan until June of the following year.

It is now necessary to relate the story of Mr. Back's
joijrney, which, like the rest, is a sad tale of suffering
and privation.

Having been directed, on the 4th of October, 1821,
to proceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beaupar-
lant to Fort Enterprise, in the hopes of obtaining relief
for the party, he set out. Up to the 7th they met with
a little tripe de roche, but this failing them they weie
compelled to satisfy, or rather allay, the cravings of
hunger, by eating a gun-cover and a pair of old shoas.
The grievous disappointment experienced on ari*iving
at the house, and finding it a deserted ruin, cannot be
told.

"Without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of
every resource, we felt ourselves," says Mr. Buck, " re-
duced to the most miserable state, which was lendered
still worse from the recollection that our friends in the
rear were as miserable as ourselves. For the moment,

■il

PROGRESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERT.

7 r

however, hunger r^revailed, and eacli be^an to i^naw
the scraps of putrid* and frozen meat and skin that were
lying about, without waiting to prepare them." A lire
was, however, afterward made, and the neck and bones
of a deer found in the house were boiled and devoured

After resting a day at the house, Mr. Back pushed on
with his companions in search of the Indians, leaving a
note for Captain Franklin, informing him if he failed in
meeting with the Indians, he intended to push on for
the first trading establishment — distant about 130
miles — and send us succor from thence. On the 11th
he set cut on the journey, a few old skins having' been
first collected to serve as food.

On the 13th and 14:th of October they bad nothing
whatever to eat. Belanger was sent oif with a note to
Franklin. On the 15th they were fortunate enough to
fall in with a partridge, the bone j of which were eaten,
and the remainder reserved for bait to fish with.
Enough tripe de roche was, however, gathered to make
a meal. Ileauparlant now lingered behind, worn out
by extreme weakness. On the 17th a number of crows,
percl'.ed on some high pines, led them to believe that
some carrion was near; and on searching, several heads
of deer, half buried in the snow and ice, without eyes
or tongues, were found. An expression of " Oh, merci-
ful God, we are saved," broke from tiiem both and with
fetJngs more easily imagined than described, they
shook hands, not kncwing what to say for joy.

St. Germain was sent back, to bring up JBeaupailant,
for whose safety Back became very anxious, but he
found the poor fellow frozen to death.

The night of the 17th was cold and clear, but they
could get no sleep. " From the pains of having eaten,
we suffered (observes Back) the most excruciating tor-
ments, though I in particular did not eat a quarter of
what would have satisfied me ; It might have been from
having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the
legs 01 deer, which neither of rs could avoid doing, so
great was our hunger."

On the following day Belanger returned IVmishing

PAERY'S FIliST VOlAaW.

ivith hunger, and told of the pitiable state of Franklin
and his reduced party. Back, both this day and the
next, tried to urge on his companions toward the object
of their journey, but he could not conquer their stub-
born, determinations. They said they were unable to
proceed from weakness ; knew not the way ; that L ick
wanted to expose them again to death, and in fact loi-
tered greedily about tlie remnants o: the deer till the
end ot the month. "It was not without the greatotl
difficulty that I could restrain the men from eating ev-
ery scrap the} found ; though they were well aware of
the necessity there was of being economical in our pres-
ent situation, and to save whatever they could for oui
journey, yet they could not resist the temptation ; and
whenever my back was turned they seldom failed to
snatch at the nearest piece to them, whether cooked or
raw. Having collected with great care, and by selt-
denial, two small packets of dried meat or sinews s ilH-
cient (for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for
eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal ;jer day,
they set out on the 30th. On the 3d of No^^cmber they
came on the track of Indians, and sot^.i reached the
tents of Akaitcho and his followers, when food was
obtained, and assistance sent off to Franklin.

In July they reached York Factory, from whence
they had started three years before, and thus terminated
a journey of 555u miles, during which human courage
and patience were exposed to trials sucIj as few can
bear with fortitude, unless, as is seen in Franklin's in-
teresting narrative, arising out of reliance on the ever
sustaining care of an Almighty Providence.

Parry's First Voyage, 1819-1820.

Thb Admiralty having determined to continue the
progress of discovery in the Arctic seas, Lieut W. E.
Parry, who had been second in command under Capt.
Ross, in the voyage of the previous year, was selected
to take chargj of a new expedition, consisting of the
Ilecla and Gr'per. The chief ooject of this voyage was
to pursue the survey of Lancaster Sound, and decida

PK0GRES8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVEKT.

on the probability of a northwest passage in tliat direc-
tion; failing in which, Smith's and Jones' Sc utk^
were to be explored, with the same purpose in view.
The respective oflBcers appointed to the shiub,
were —

Uecla^ 375 tons :

Lieut, and Commander — W. E. Parry.

Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey.

Captain — E. Sabine, R. A., Astronomer.

Purser — W. H. Hooper.

Surgeon — John Edwards.

Assistant Surgeon — Alexander Fisher,

Midshipmen — James Clarke Ross, J. Nias, W. J

Dealy, Charles Palmer, John Bushnan.
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; G. Craw

furd, mate.
44 Petty OflBcers, Seamen, «fec.

Total complement, 58.

Grip^r^ 180 tons :

Lieutenant and Commander — Matthew Liddon.
Lieutenant — H. P. Hoppner.
Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley.
Midshipmen — A. Reid, A. M. Skene, W. N

Griffiths.
Greenland Pilots — George Fyfe, master ; A. Eld

mate.
28 Petty Oifficers, Seamen, &c.

Total complement, 36.

The ships were raised upon, strengthened, and well
found in stores and provisions for two years. On tic
lltli of May, 1819, they got away from the Thames,
and aller a fair passage fell in with a considerable quan-
tity of ice in the middle of Davis' Straits about the
20th of June ; it consisted chiefly of fragments of ice-
bergs, on the outskirts of the glaciers that fonn along
the shore. After a tedious passage through the floes
of ice, eflfected chiefly by heaving and warping, they
arrived at I^ossession Bay on the morning of the 31b(

. ,t.<i^^w^^«^J«^/ -,-^'.***^'

PARRY 8 FIRST VOYAGE.

of July, being just a month earlier than they were
here on the previous year. As many as fifty whales
were seen here in the course of a few hours. On land-
ing, they were not a little astonished to find their own
fuot2)rint8 of the previous year, still distinctly visible in
tlie snow. During an excursion of three or four miles
into the interior, a fox, a raven, several ring-plovers
and snow-buntings, were seen, as also a bee, from which
it may be inferred that honey can be procured even in
these wild regions. Vegetation flourishes remarkably
well here, considering the high latitude, for wherever
there was moisture, tufts and various ground plants
grew in considerable abundance.

Proceeding on from hence into the Sound, they veri-
fied the opinion which had previously been entertained
by many of the ofiicers, that the Crolcer Mountains
had no existence, for on the 4th of August, the sliips
were in long. 86° 56' W., three degrees to the westward
of where land had been laid down by Koss in the pre-
vious year. Tlie strait was named after Sir John Bar-
row, and was found to be pretty clear ; but on reach-
ing Leopold Island, the ice extended in a compact body
to the north, through which it was impossible to pene-
trate. Rather than remain inactive, waiting for the
dissolution of the ice. Parry determined to try what
could be done by shaping his course to the southward,
through the magnificent inlet now named Regent In-
let. About the 6th of August, in consequence of tlie
local attraction, the ordinary compasses became use-
less from their great variation, and the binnacles were
removed from the deck to the carpenter's store-room as
useless lumber, the azimuth compasses alone remain-
ing ; and these became so sluggish in their motions,
that they required to be very nicely leveled, and fre-
quently tapped before the card traversed. The local at-
traction was very great, and a mass of iron-f-tone found
on shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The Bhij>8
proceeded 120 miles from the entrance.

On the 8th of Au^ ist, in lat. 72° 13' N., and long.
90° 29' W.J (his extreme point of view Parry namec)

.'^«i T 1 v«! ■'>-^'aiiaMt««MliMU|«|li|Hi

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

'I!=l'-

Cape Kuter,) the Jiecla came to a compact barrier of
ice extending across the inlet, which rendered oiu'. of
two alternatives necessary, either to remain here until
an opening took place, or to return again to the north-
ward. The latter course was determined on. Making,
therefore, for the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, on
the 20th a narrow channel was discovered between the
ice and the land. On the 22d, proceeding due west,
after passing several bays and headlands, they noticed
two large openings or passages, the lirst of which, more
than ci^ht leagues in width, he named Wellington
Channel. To various capes, inlets, and groups ot isl-
ands passed, Parry assigned the names of llotham,
Barlow, Cornwallis, Bowen, Byam Martin, Griffith,
Lowther, Bathurst, &c. On the 28th a boat was sent
on sliore at Byam Martin Island with Capt. Sabine,
Mr. J. C. Ross, and the surgeons, to make observations,
and collect bpecimens of natural history. The vegeta-
tion was ratner luxuriant for these regions; moss in
particular grew in abundance in the moist valleys and
along the oanks of the streams that flowed from the
liills. The ruins of six Esquimaux huts were observed.
Tracks of reindeer, bears, and musk oxen were noticed,
and the skeletons, skulls, and horns of some of these
animals were found.

On the 1st of September, they discovered the largo
and line island, to which Parry has given the name of
Melville Island after the First Lord of the Admiralty
of that day. On the following day, two boats with a
party of officers were dispatched to examine its shores.
Some reindeer and musk oxen were seen on landing,
but being startled by the eight of a dog, it was found
impossible to get near them. There seemed here to l)e
a great quantity of the animal tribe, for the tracks of
bears, oxen, ana deer were numerous, and the horns,
skin, and skulls were also found. The burrows of foxes
and field-mice were observed; several ptarmigan were
shot, and flocks of snow-bunting, geese, and ducks, were
noticed, probably commencing their migration to a
milder climate. Alonsf the beach there was an im-

pajiey's first voyage.

', of

11 til
rtli-

,, on
tho
vest,
;iced
iiore
igton
fisl-
ham,

imtb,

i sent
ibine,
ttions,
egeta-
jss in
rs and
the
ved.
>ticed,
these

were

to a

Ln ina-

mense number of small shrimps, and various kinds of
filiells.

On the 4th of September, Parry had the satisfaction
of crossing the meridian of 110° W., in the latitude of
74° 44' 20", by which the expedition became entitled
to the reward of £5000, granted by an order in Coun-
cil upon the Act 58 Geo. III., cap. '^0, entitled, "An
Act for more effectually discovering the longitude at
sea, and encouraging attempts to find a northern pas-
sage between the Auantic and Pacific Oceans, and to
approach tlie North Pole." This fact was not announced
to the crews until the following day ; to celebrate tbo
event tliey gave to a bold cape of the island then lying
in sight the name of Bounty Cape ; and so anxious
were they now to press forward, that they began to
calculate the time when they should reach tho longi-
tude of 130° W., the second place specified by the order
in Council for reward. On the afternoon of the 5th,
the compactness of the ice stopped them, and therefore,
for the first time since leaving England, the anchor was
let go, and that in 110° "W. longitude.

A boat was sent on shore on the 6th to procure turf
or peat for fuel, and, strangely enough, some small
pieces of tolerably good coal were found in various
places scattered over the surface. A party of officers
that went on shore on the 8th killed sevei*al grouse on
the island, and a white hare ; a fox, some field-mice,
several snow-bunting, a snowy owl, and four musk oxen
were seen. Ducks, m sraall nocks, were seen along the
shore, aa "^oM as several glaucous gulls and tern, and a
solitary eeu- was observea.

Vs the shipB were coasting along on the 7th, two
lj.erd •■ n, k oxen were seen grazing, at tho distance
of at three quarters of a mile from the beach : one
Devi consisted of nine, and the other of five of these
cattle. T ey had also a distant view of two reindeer

The average weight of the hares hero is about eight
pounds. Mr. Fisher, the surgeon, from whose interest-
ing journal I quote, states that it is very evident that
this island must be frequented, if not constantly inhal>

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

li-

lted, by musk oxen in great numbers, for their bones and
horns are found scattered about in all directions, and
the greatest |>art of the carcass of one was discovered
on one occasion. The skulls of two carnivorous ani-
mals, a wolf and a lynx, were also picked up here. A
party sent to gather coals brought on board about half
a bushel — all they could obtain.

On the morning of the 10th, Mr. George Fyfe, tlie
master pilot, with a party of six men belonging to the
Griper, landed with a view of making an exploringtrip
of some fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. They
only took provisions for a day with them. Great un-
easiness was felt that they did not return ; and when
two days elapsed, fears began to be entertained for
their safety, and it was thought they must have lost
their way.

Messrs. Reid, (midshipman) Beverly, (assistant sur-
geon) and Wakeman (clerk) volunteerea to go in search
of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their
way ; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibited,
they returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with
cold and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends.
Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent
out on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search,
and one of them fell in with and brought back four of
the wanderers, and another the remaining three before
nightfall.

The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and
they were all wearied and worn out with their wander-
ings. It appears they had all lost their way the eve-
ning of the day they went out. With regard to food,
they were by no means badly off, for they managed to
kill as man) grouse as they could eat.

They found fertile valleys and level plains in the in-
terior, abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of
fresh water, a^^out two miles long by one broad, in which
were several species of trout. They saw several herds
of reindeer on the plains, and two elk ; also many
Iiares, but no musk oxen. Some of those, however, who
had been in search of the stray party, noticed herds of
these cattle.

parry's first voyage.

The winter now began to set in, and the packed ice
was so tliick, that fears were entertained of being locked
lip in an exposed position on the coast ; it was, there-
fore, thought most prudent to put back, and endeavor
to reach me harbor which had been passed some days
before. The vessels now ^ot seriously buffeted anioni/
the floes and hummocks ol ice. The Griper was forced
aground on the beach, and for some time was in a very
critical position. Lieutenant Liddon having been con-
fined to his cabin by a rheumatic complaint, was pi cased
at this junctuKe by Commander Parry to allow himself
to be removed to the Hecia, but he nobly refused, stating
that he should be the last to leave the ship, and contin-
ued giving orders. The beach being sand, the Gripei
was got on without injury.

On the 23d of September they anchored off the
mouth of the harbor, and the thermometer now fell to
1°. The crew were set to work to cut a channel through
the ice to the shore, and in the course of three days, a
canal, two and a half miles in length, was completed,
through which the vessel was traeked. The ice was
eight or nine inches thick. An extra allowance of ]) re-
served meat was served out to the men, in considera-
tion of their hard labor. The vessels were unrigged,
and every thing made snug and secure for passing the
winter. Captain Parry gave the name of the North
Georgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty, King
(reorge III., but this has since been changed to the
Parrv Islands,

Two reindeer were killed on the Ist of October, and
s.'veral white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was
k'lled, which weighed 170 pounds. Seven were seen
ou the 10th, one of which watt killed, and another se-
Torely wounded. Following after this animal, night
ij\ ertook several of the sportsmen, and the usual sig-
nals of rockets, lights, &c. were exhibited, to gui<lo
them back. One, John Pearson, a marine, had his
hands so frost-bitten that he was obliged, on the 2d of
November, to have the four fingers of nis left hand am-
putated. A wolf and four reindeer were seen on the
6 D*

PROGRESS OF AJidlC DISCOVERY.

'if^-

14 th. A herd of fifteen deer were seen on the 16th;
but those who saw them could not bring down any, as
their fowliiiff-pieces missed fire, from the moisture
freezing on the locks. On the 17th and 18th herds of
eleven and twenty respectively, were seen, and a small
one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which is
described as equally cunning with his brethren of the
teh.perate regions.

To make the long winter pass as cheerfully as possi-
ble, plays were acted, a school established, and a news-
paper set on foot, certainly the first periodical publica-
tion that had ever issued from the Arctic regions. The
title of this journal, the editorial duties of which were
undertaken by Captain Sabine, was "The Winter
Cln*onicle, or New Georgia Gazette." Th'^ first num-
ber appeared on the 1st of November.

On the evening of the 6th of November the farce of
" Mi88 in her Teens " was brought out, to the great
anuisenient of the ships' companies, and, considering
the local difficulties and disadvantages under 'which tlie
performers labored, their first essay, according to the
officers' report, did them infinite credit. Two hours
were spent very happily in their theater on the quarter-
deck, notwithstanding the thermometer outside the ship
stood at zero, and within as low as the freezing point,
except close to the stoves, where it was a little higher.
Another play was performed on the 24th, and so on
every fortnight. The men were employed during the
day in banking up the ships with snow.

On the 23d of December, the officers performed " The
Mayoi' of Garrett," which was followed by an after-
piece, written by Captain Parry, entitled the " North-
West Passage, or the Voyage Finished." The sun hav-
ing long since departed, the twilight at noon was so
clear that books in the smallest print could be distinctly
read.

On the 6th of January, the farce of " Bon Ton " was
performed, with the thermometer at 27° below zero.--
The cold became more and r lore intense. On the 12th
it was 61° bel( w ze:o, in the open air ; brandy froze U

PAKRYS FIRST VOYAGE.

the consistency of honey; when tasted in this state it
left a smarting on the tongue. The greatest cold expe-
rienced wafi.i)n the 14th of January, whe» the tlier-
inometer fell to 52° below zero. On the 3d of Febi u
ary, the sun was first visible above the horizon, after
eighty-fonr days' absence. It was seen from the main-
top of the ships, a height of about fifty-one feet abovo
the sea.

On the forenoon of the 24th a fire broke out at the
storehouse, which was used as an observatory. All
hands proceeded to the spot to endeavor to subdue the
flames, but having only snow to throw on it, and the
mats with which the interior was lined being very dry,
it was found impossible to extinguish it. The snow,
iiowever, covered the astronomical instruments and se-
cured them from the fire, and wlien the roof had been
pulled down the fire had burned itself out. Consider-
able as the fire was, its influence or heat extended but
a very short distance, for several of the officers and
men were frost-bitten, and confined from their eftbrta
for several weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, who
was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with
Sergeant Martin, happened to be in the house at the
time the fire broke out, suff*ered much more severely.
In their anxiety to save the dipping needle, which was
standing close to the stove, and of which they knew
the value, they immediately ran out with it; and Smith
not having time to put on his gloves, had his fingers in
half an hour so benumbed, and the animation so com-
pletely suspended, that on his being taken on board
by Mr. Edwards, and having his hands plunged into
a basin of cold water, the surface of the water was im-
mediately frozen by the intense cold thus suddenly
communicated to it; and notwithstanding the most hu-
mane and unremitting attention paid him by the med-
ical gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after,
to resort to the amputation of a part of four fingers
on one hand, and three on the other.

Parry adds, " the appearance which our faces pre-
Bputed at the fire was a curious one; almost every nose

PB00BES8 OF iKailO DISCOVUKT.

:;n

ill '' ■'<:.[■

m \v-

W if'l

and cheek having become quite white with frost bitcs^
in fiye minutes after being exposed to the weather, su-
tliat it was deemed necessary for the medical gentle-
men, together with some others appointed to assist
them, to go constantly round while the men were work-
ing at the fire, and to rub with snow the parts affected,
in order to restore animation."

The weather got considerably milder in March; on
the 6th the thermometer got up to zero for the first
time since the 17th of December. The observatory
house on shore was now rebuilt.

The vapor, which had been in a solid state on tha
fihip's sides, now thawed below, and the crew, scraping
off the coating of ice, removed on the 8th of March,
above a hundred bucketsfuU each, containing from five
to six gallons, which had accumulated in less than a
month, occasioned principally from the men's breath,
and the steam of victuals at meals.

The scurvy now broke out among the crew, and
prompt measures were taken to remedy it. Captain
rarry took great pains to raise mustard and cress in
his cabin for the men's use.

On the 30th of April, the thermometer stood at the
freezing point, which it had not done since the 12th of
September last. On the 1st of May, the sun was seen
at midnight for the first time that season.

A survey was now taken of the provisions, fuel, and
stores; much of the lemon juice was found destroyed
from the bursting in the bottles by the frost. Having
been only victualed for two years, and half that period
having expired. Captain Parry, as a matter of prudence
reduced all hands to two-thirds allowance of all sorts of
provisions, except meat and sugar.

The crew were now set to work in cutting away the
ice round the ships : the average thickness was found
to be seven feet. Many of the men who had been out
on excui'sions began to suffer much fi'om snow blind-
ness. The sensation when first experienced, is de-
scribed as like that felt when dust or sand gets into
the eyes They were, however, cured in the course of

r2::nY's first

VOYAGB.

^ay the
found
jeii out
blind-
is de-
Its into
irso of

two or tlueo days by keeping the eyes covered, and
bathing thum occasionally with sugar of load, or some
other cooling lotion.

To prevent the recurrence of the complaint, the men
were ordered to wear a piece of crape or somo substi-
tute for it over the eyes.

The channel round the ships was -rompleted by the
ITth of May, and they rose nearly two feet, having
been kept down by the pressure of the ice round them,
although lightened during the winter by the consump-
tion ot fooa and fuel. On the 24th, they were aston-
ished by two showers of rain, a most extraordinary
phenomenon in these regions. Symptoms of scurvy
again appeared among the crew ; one of the seamen
wlio had been recently cured, having imprudently been
In the habit of eating the fat skimmmgs, or " slush," in
which salt meat had oeen boiled, and which was served
out for their lamps. As the hills in raany places now be-
came exposed and vegetation commenced, two or three
pieces of ground were dug up and sown with seeds of
radishes, onions, and other vegetables. Captain Parry
determined before leaving to make an excursion across
the island for the purpose of examining its size, bound-
aries, productions, &c. Accordingly on the Ist of June,
an expedition was organized, consisting of the com-
mander, Captain Sabine, Mr. Fisher, the assistant-sur-
geon, Mr. John Nias, midshipman of the Ilecla, and
Mr. Keid, midshipman of the Griper, with two ser
geants, and five seamen and marines. Three weeks
provisions were taken, which, together with tivo tents
wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in all about
800 lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for the purpose
by the men.

Each of the ofllcerB /jarried a knapsack with his own
private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs., also big
gun and ammunitioirj. The party started in high glee,
11 ider three hearty cheers from treir comrades, sixteen
of whom accompanied them for five miles, carrying
their knapsacks and drawing the cart for them.

TUey tiaveled by night, taking \eA by day, as it w»i

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PKOGKESS OF ARCTIC DI8C0VKRY.

found to be warmer for sleep, and they had only a cov
ering of a single blanket each, beside the clothes tbey
liad on.

On the 2d, they came to a small lake, about half a
mile long, and met with eider-ducks and ptarmigan ;
seven ofthe latter were shot. From the top of a range
of hills at which they now arrived, they could see the
masts of the ships in Winter Harbor with the naked
eye, at about ten or eleven miles distant. A vast plain
was also seen extending to the northward and west-
ward.

The party breakf'^sted on biscuit and a pint of gruel
each, made of salep powder, which was round to be a
very palatable diet Keindeer with their fawns were
met "vvith.

They derived great assistance in dragging their cart
by rigging upon it one of the tent-blankets as a sail, a
truly nautical contrivance, and the wind favoring them,
they made great progress in this way. Captain Sabine
being taken ill with a bowel complaint, had to be con-
veyed on this novel sail carriage. They, however, had
some ugly ravines to pass, the crossings of which were
very tedious and troublesome. On the 7th the party
came to a large bay, which was named after their ships,
Ilecla and Griper bay. The blue ice was cut through
by hard work with boardirg pikes, the only instruments
they had, and after digging fourteen and a half feet,
the water rushed up ; it wes not very salt, but sufficient
to satisfy them that it was the ocean. An island seen
in the distance was named after Captain Sabine ; seme
of the various points and capes were also named after
others of the party. Although this «hore was found
blocked up with such heavy ice, there appear to be times
when there is open water here, for a piece of fir wood
seven and a half feet long, and about the thickness of
a man's arm, was found about eighty yards inland from
the hummocks of the beach, and about thirty feet above
the level of the sea. Before leaving the shore, a monu
ment of stones, twelve feet high, was erected, in which
were deposited, in a tin cylinder, an account of theii

PA.RBY8 FIRST VOYAGE.

i« ceedings, a few coins, and several naval bnttons.
be expedition now turned back, shaping its course in
a more westerly direction, toward some high blue hilla
which had long been in sight. On many days several
ptarmigans were shot The horns and tracks of deer
were very numerous.

On the 11th they came in sight of a deep gulf, to
which Lieutenant Liddon's name was given ; tne two
capes at its entrance being called after Beechey and
Hoppner. In the center was an island about three-quar-
ters of a mile in length, and rising abruptly to the
height of 700 feet. The shores of the gulr were very
rugged and precipitant, and in descending a steep hill,
the axle-tree of their cart broke, and they had to leave
it behind, taking the bodv with them, however, for fuel.
The wheels, which were left on the spot, may astonish
some futui;p adventurer who discovers them. The stores,
&c., were divided among the oflScers and men.

Making their wav on the ice in the gulf, the island in
the center was explored, and named after Mr. Hooper,
the purser of the Hecla. It was found to be of sand-
stone, and very barren, rising pei-pendicularly fi'om the
west side. Four fat geese were killed here, and a great
many animals were seen around the guH; some atten-
tion being paid to examining its shores, &c., a fine open
valley was discovered, ana the tracks of oxen and
deer were v sry numerous ; the pasturage appeared to
be excellent.

On the 13th, a few ptarmigan and golden plover were
killed. No less than thirteen deer in one herd were
seen, and a musk ox for the first time in this season.

The remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered
about 300 yards f-*om the beach. Vegetation now be-
gan to flourish, the sorrel was foniud far advanced, and
a species of saxifrage was met with in blossom. They
reached the ships on the evening of the 15th, after a
journey of about 180 miles.

The ships' crews, during thoir absence, had been occu-
pied in getting ballauc in and re-st wing the hold.

Shooting parties were now sent ut in various direcv

PROGRESS OF AROTIO fclSOOYERY.

if ■!■ I

tions to procure game. Dr. Fisher gives an interostiu^,
account of his ten days' excursion with a couple of men.
The deer were not so numerous as they expected to find
them. About thirty were seen, of which his party
killed but two, whicti were Very lean, weighing only,
when skinned and cleaned, 50 to 60 lbs. A couple of
wolves were seen, and some foxes, with a sreat many
hares, four of which were killed, weighing from 7 to 8
lbs. The aquatic birds seen were — • orent rjeese, king
ducks, long-tailed ducks, and arctic and glaucous gulls.
The land birds were ptarmigans, plovers, sandenings
and snow buntings. The geese were pretty numerous
for the first few days, but got wild and wary on being
disturbed, keeping in the middle of lakes out of gun-
shot. About a dozen were, however, killed, and fifteen
ptarmigans. These birds are represented to be so stu-
pid, that all seen may be shot. Dr. Fishoj* was sur-
prised on his return on the 29th of June, after his ten
days' absence, to find how much vegetation had ad-
vanced ; the land being now completely clear of snow,
was covered with the purple-colored saxifrage in blos-
som, with mosses, and with sorrel, and the grass was
two to three inches long. The men were sent out twice
a week to collect the sorrel, and in a few minutes enough
could be procured to make a salad for dinner. After
being mixed with vinegar it was regularly served out
to the men. The English garden seeds that had been
sown got on but slowly, and did not yield any produce
in time to be used.

On the 30th of June Wm. Scott, a boatswain's mate,
who had been afflicted with scurvy, diarrhoea, &c.,
died, and was buried on the 2d of July — a slab ot
sandstone bearing an inscription carved by Dr. Fisher,
being erected over his grave.

From observations made on the tide during two
months, it appears that the greatest rise and fall here
is four feet rour inches. A large pile of stones was
erected on the 14th of July, upon the most conspicuous
bill, containing the usual notices, coins, &c., and on a
large stone an inscription was left, uotitying the winter
Ing (.)i' the ships here.

pakry's flrst voyage.

men.
[)find
party
onlvj
pie of
many
7 to 8
,, king

^lls.
jrlings
aeroufl

being
f gun-
fifteen
80 stu-
m Bur-
his ten
lad ad-
I snoWj
blop-

s was
twice

jnough
After

ed ont

i been

roduce

mate,
,, &c.,
dab ot
I'isher,

ftwo
here
»8 was
licuoua
on a
winter

On the Ist of Augnst, tiie ships, which had been pre*,
vion^ly warped out, got clear ot the harbor, and found
a cliannel, Doth eastward and westward, clear of ice,
about three or four miles in breadth alon^ the land.

On the 6th they landed on the islanu, and in the
course of the night killed fourteen hares and a number
of glaucous gulls, which were found with their young
on the top ot a precipitous, insulated rock.

On the 9th the voyagers had an opportunity of ob-
serving an instance of the violent pressure that takes
place occasionally b v the collision of heavy ice. " Two
pieces," suys Dr. Fisher, " that happened to come in
contact close to us, pressed so forcibly against one an-
other that one of them, although forty-two feet thick,
and at least three times that in length and breadth, was
forced up on its edge on the top of another piece of ice.
But even this is nothing when compared with the pres-
sure that must have existed to proouce the effects that
we see along the shore, for not only heaps of earth and
stones several tons weight are forced up, but hummocks
of ice, from fifty to sixty feet thick, are piled up on the
beach. It is unnecessary to remark that a ship, although
fortified as well as wood and iron could make her, would
have but little chance of withstanding such over-
whelming force."

This day a musk-ox was shot, which weighed more
\han 700 lbs.; the carcass, when skinned and cleaned,
yielding 421 lbs. of meat. Tlie flesh did not taste ao
very strong of musk as had been represented.

'The ships made but slow progress, being still thickly
!)cset with floes of ice, 40 or 60 feet thick, and had to
make fast for security to hummocks of ice on the beach.

On the 15th and 16th they were off the southwest
point of the island, but a survey of the locality fi'om
the precip'tous cliff of Cape Dundas, presented the
same interminable ban-ier of ice, as far as the eye could
reach. A bold high coast was sighted to the sonthwest,
to which the name of Bank's Land was given.

Captain PaiTy states that on the 23a the ships re-
ceived by far the heaviest shocks they had experienced

lOO

PBOOBESS OF ABCriO DISCOVHIBT.

i r

p '■

during the voyage, and performed six miles of the most
^ifficmt navigation he had ever known among ice.

Two musk Dulls were shot on the 24th by parties who
landed, out of a herd of seven which were seen. They
were lighter than the first one shot — weighing only
about 360 lbs. From the number of skulls and skele-
tons of these animals met with, and their capabilities
of enduring the rigor of the climate, it seems probable
that they £> not migrate southward, but w\nter on this
island.

Attempts were BtUl made to work to the east\vard,
but on the 25th, from want of wind, and the closeness
of the ice, the ships were obliged to make fast again,
without having gamed above a milo after several hours*
labor. A fresn breeze springing up on the 26th opened
a passage along shore, and the ships made sail to the
eastward, and in the evening were off their old quarters
in Winter Harbor. On the following evening, after a
fine run, they were off the east end of Melville IsKnd.
Lieut. Parry, this day, announced to the officers and
crew that after due consideration and consultation, it
had been found useless to prosecute their researches
farther westward, and therefore endeavors would be
made in a more southerly direction, failing in which,
the expedition would return to England. Kegent Inlet
and the southern shores generally, were found so Mocked
up with ice, that the return to England was on the 30th
or August publicly announced. This day. Navy Board
and Admiralty Inlets were passed, and on the Ist of
September the vessels got clear of Barrow's Strait, and
reached Baffin's Bay on the 6th. They fell in with a
whaler belonging to Hull, from whom they learned the
news of the deatn of George the Third and the Duke
of Kent, and that eleven vessels having been lost in the
ice last year, fears were entertained for their safety.
The Friendship, another Hull whaler, informed them
that in company with the Truelove, she had looked into
Smith's Sound that summer. The Alexander, of Aber-
deen, one of the ships employed on the former voyage
of discovery to these seas, had also entered Lancaster

:.-T r:i

PARRY S 8VCOND VOYAGE.

101

Sound. After touching at Clyde's River, where they
met a good-natured tribe of Esquimaux, the ships maae
tlie best of their way across the Atlantic, and after a
somewhat boisterous passage, Commodore Parry landed
at Peterhead on the 30th of October, and, accompanied
by Capt. Sabine and Mr. Hooper, posted to Lonaon.

Parry's Sboond Voyage, 1821—1828.

The experience which Capt. Parry had formed in hii
previous voyage, led him to entertain the opinion that
a communication might be found between Regent Inlet
and Roe's Welcome, or through Repulse Bay, and thence
to the northwestern shores. The following are his re-
marks : — " On an inspection of the charts I think it
will also appear probable that a communication will
one day be found to exist between this inlet (Prince
Regent's) and Hudson's Bav, either through the broad
and unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Roe's Wel-
come, or thr jugh Repulse Bay, which has not yet been
satisfactorily examined. It is also probable that a chan-
nel will be found to exist between the western land and
the northern coast of America." Again, in another
place, he says: — "Of the existence of a northwest

Sassage to the Pacific it is now scarcely possible to
oubt, and from the succesr which attended our efforts
in 1819, after passing th' .ugh. Sir James Lancaster's
Sound, we were not imrea&onable in anticipating its
complete accomplishment. But the season in which it
is practicable to navigate the Polar Seas does not exceed
seven weeks. From all that we observed it seems desir*
able that ships endeavoring to reach the Pacific Ocean
by this route should keep if possible on the coast of
America, and the lower m latitude that coast may be
found, the more favorable will it prove for the purpose ;
hence Cumberland Strait, Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome,
and Repulse Bay appear to be the points most worthy
of attention. I cannot, therefore, but consider that any
expedition equipped by Great Britain with this view

VlCTOniA, B. Q

- ! A. \

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11'

1 1

l(hi

PBOUU))M <yt AKCrriO UI8C0VKRT.

oaglit Ut employ ite btesteneigles in atteinpting to pcne
ti'ate from the eastern const of America along its north-
wn shore. In consequence of the partial success which
has hitherto attendea our attempts, the wluilerrt have
ulroadv extended their views, ana a new field has l)eon
')pened for one of the most luciative branches of our
commerce, and what is scarcely of less importance, one
of the most valuable nurseries for seamen which Great
Britain possesses."*

Pleased with his former zeal and enteriMise, and in
order to give him an opportunity of testing the tinith
of his observations, a few months after he returned lionie,
the Admiralty gave Parry the command of another ex-
pedition, with instructions to proceed to Hudson's Strait,
and penetrate to the westward, until in Repulse Bay,
or on some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to
the north of Wager River, he sliould reach the western
coast of the continent. Failing in these quarters, ho
was to keep along the coast, carefully examining every
bend or mlet, which should appear likely to afford a
practicable passage to the westward.

The vessels commissioned, with their officers and
crews, were the following. Several of the officers of the
former expedition were promoted, and those who had
been on the last voyage with Parry I have marked with
an asterisk : —

& i-.

Fury,

Commander — ^*W. E. Pairy.

Chaplain and Astronomer — Rev. Geo. Fisher, (was

in the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, in 1818.)
Lieutenants — *J. Nias and *A. Reid.
Surgeon — ^* J. Edwards.
Purser — ^*"W. H. Hooper.
Assistant-Surgeon — J. Skeoch.
ifidsbipmen — * J. 0. Ross, *J. Bnshnan, J. Ilendoi

ion, F. R. M. Croder.

•Pwny** Pirrt Voyage, roL ii, jx 946L

PAEKY^S SKCCND VOYAGE.

103

(was

indoJ

Greenland Pilots — *J. Allison, master ; G. Crawfiird,

mate.
A7 Pottj Officers, Seamen, &o.

Total complement, 60.

Commander — G. F. Lvon.

Lieutenants — *H. P. Hoppner and •O. Palmer.

Surgeon — *A. Fisher.
Purser — J. Germain.
Assistant-Surgeon — A. M'Laren.
Midshipmen — *W. N. Griffiths, J. Sherer, 0. Rich-
ards, E. J. Bird.
Greenland Pilots — *G. Fife, master; 'A. Elder, mate.
46 Petty Officers, seamen, &c.

Total complement, 58.

Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had ob
tamed some reputation from his travels in Tripoli,
Mourzouk, and other parts of Northern Africa, and was
raised to the rank of Commander, on his appointment
CO the Hecla, and received his promotion as Captain,
ehen the expedition returned.

The ships were accompanied as far as the ice by
♦bo Nautilus transport, freighted with provisions and
Atores, which were to be transhipped as soon as room
t^as found for them.

The vessels got away from the little Nore early on
*he 8th of May, 1821, but meeting with strong gales
off the Greenland coast, and a boisterous passage, did
oot fall in with the ice until the middle of June.

On the 17th of June, in a heavy gale from the south-
ji^ard, the sea stove and carried away one of the quar-
ter boats of the Hecla. On the following day, in lat.
60® 53' N., lon^. 61® 39' "W., they made the pack or
main body of ice, having many large bergs in and
near it. On the 19th, Resolution I^and, at the en-
trance of Hudson's Strait, was seen distant sixty-four
miles. Capt. Lyon states, that during cne of the

104

pROGRbflS OF Aitrrrio DnoovEBi.

I<ii::

Ji. .f ;■ "■'.^

watches, a large fragment was observed to fall froii
ail iceberg near the Heel a, which threw up the wafei
to a great height, sending forth at the same time a
noise Tike the report of a great gun. From this ])e-
riod to the Ist of July, the ships were occupied in
clearing the Nautilus of her stores, preparatory to
her return home, occasionally made fast to a berg, or
driven out to sea by gales. On the 2d, after runnin^r
through heavy ice, they again made Resolution Island,
and shaping their course for the Strait, were soon in-
troducea to the company of some unusually large ice-
bergs. The altitude of one was 258 feet above the
Buruice of the sea; its total height, therefore, allowing
one-seventh only to be visible, must have been about
1806 feetl This however, is supposing the base un
der water not to spread beyond the mass above water
The vessels had scarcely drifted past this floating
mountain, when the eddy tide carried them with great
rapidity among a cluster of eleven bergs of huge
size, and having a beautiful diversity of lorm. The
largest of these was 210 feet above the water. The
floe ice was running wildly at the rate of three miles
an hour, sweeping the vessels past the bergs, against
any one of which, they might nave received incalcu-
lable injury. An endeavor was made to make the
ships fast to one of them, (for all of them were aground,)
in order to ride out the tide, but it proved unsuccess-
ful, and the Fury had much difficulty in sending a
boat for some men who were on a small berg, making
holes for her ice anchors. They were therefore swept
past and soon beset. Fifty-four icebergs were counted
from the mast-head.

On the dd, they made some progress through very
heavy floes ; but on the tide turning, the loose ice flew
together with such rapidity and noise, that there was
barely time to secure the ships in a natural dock, bo-
fore the two streams met, ana even then they received
some heavy shocks. Water was procured for use
from the pools in the floe to which the ships were
made fast; and this being the first time of doing so,

parbt'b second yotagb.

lOfi

afforded great amusement to the novices, who, even
when it was their period of rest, preferred pelting
each other with snow-balls, to goins to bed. iiuifet
ing with eddies, strong currents, and dangerous bergs,
they were kept in a state of anxiety and danger, for
a week or ten days. On one occasion, with the pros-
pect of being driven on shore, the pressure they ex-
perienced was so great, that five huv.c^ors, six inches
thick, were carried away, and the best bower anchor
of the Hecla was wrenched from the bows, and broke
off at the head of the shank, with as much ease as if,
instead of weighing upward of a ton, it had been of
crockery ware. For a week they were embayed by
the ice, and during this period they saw three strange
ships, also besot, under Resolution Island, which they
contrived to join on the 16th of July, making fast to
a floe near them. They proved to be the Hudson's Bay
Company's traders. Prince of Wales, and Eddystone,
with the Lord Wellington, chartered to convey 160
natives of Holland, who were proceeding to settle on
Lord Selkirk's estate, at the lied Eiver. " While
nearing these vessels, (says Lyon,) we observed the
settlors waltzing on deck, for above two hours, the
men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and the women
wearing long-eared mob caps, like those used by the
Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and
the thermometer was at the freezing point, it may be
supposed that this ball, al vero fresco, afforded us
much amusement.'' The Hudson's Bay ships had
left England twenty daye after the expedition.

The emigrant ship had been hampered nineteen
days among the ice before she joined the others ;
and as this navigation was new to her captain and crew,
they almost despaired of ever getting to their jour-
ney's end, 80 varied and coniitant had been their im-
pediments. The Dutchmen ^ad, however, behaved
very philosophically during ibis period, and seemed
determined on being merry, n spite of the weather
and the dangers. Several marriages had taken place,
the surgeon, who was accompanying them to the col-

11^

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I'ROGRICSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

ony, officiating as clergyman,) and many more were
in agitation ; each happy couple always deferring the
ceremony until a line day allowed of an evening ball,
which was only terminated by a fresh breeze, or a fall
of snow.* On the 17th, the ships were separated by
the ice, and they saw no more of their visitors. On
the 21st, they were only oft' the I ower Savage Islands.
In the evening they saw a very large bear lying on a
piece of ice, an^^ two boats were instantly sent off in
chase. They approached very close before he took
to the water, when ho swam rapidly, and made long
springs, turning boldly to face his pursuers. It was
with difficulty lie was captured. As these animals,
although very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die,
he was lashod to a boat, and brought alongside the
ship. On h oting him in, they were astonished to
find that his weight exceeded sixteen hundred pounds,
being one of the largest ever killed. Two instances,
only, of larger bears being shot are recorded, and
these wore by Barentz's crew, in his third voyage, at
Cherie Island, to which they gave the name of Bear
Island. The two bears killed then, measured twelve
and thirteen feet, while this one only measured eight
feet eight inches, from the snout to the insertion of the
tail. The seamen ate the flesh without experiencing
any of those baneful effects which old navigatoi*fl at-
tribute to it, and which are stated to have made three
of Barentz d people " so sick that we expected they
would have died, and their skins peeled off fi'om
head to foot." Bruin was very fat, and having pro-
cured a tub of blubber from the carcass, it was thrown
over board, and the smell soon attracted a couple
of walruses, the first that had been yet seen.

They here fell in with a numerous body of the Efl
quimaux, who visited them from the' shore. In less
than an hour the ships were beset with thirty " ka-
vaks," or men's canoes, and five of the women's large
Doats, or "oomiaks." Some of the latter held up-
ward of twenty women. A most noisy but merry
barter instantly took place, the crew being as anxious

i 1

I'4JLJi\'8 BECOKD VOYAGE.

107

CO purcbase Esquimaux curiosities^ as the natives were
to procure iron and European toys.

•* It is quite out of my power, (observes Captain
Lyon,) to describe the shouts, yells, and laughter of
tho savages, or the confusion which existed for two or
tliree hours. The females were at first very shy, and
unwillinff to come on the ice, but bartered every thing
from their boats. This timidity, however, soon wore
off, and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois-
terous as the men." " It is scarcely possible, (he adds)
to conceive any thing more ugly or disgusting tlian
tho countenances of the old woipen, who had inflamed
eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and, in fact, such a
forbidding set of features as bcarcely could be called
human ; to which might bo added their dress, which
was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang-
outangs. Frobisher's crow may be pardoned for hav-
ing, in such superstitious times as a. d. 1576, taken
one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said,
' The old wretch whom cur sailors supposed to be a
witch, had her buskins pulled off, to see if she was
cloven-footed ; and being ve^-y ugly and deformed, we
let her go.' "

In bartering they have a singular custom of ratify-
ing the bargain, by licking the article all over before
it is put away in security. Captain Lyon says he fre-
quently shuddered at seeing the children draw a razor
over their tongue, as unconcernedly as if it had been
an ivory paper-knife. I cannot forbear quoting here
Rome humorous passages from his journal, which stand
out in relief to the scientific and nautical parts of the
narrative.

" The sk'angers were so well pleased in our society,
that they showed no wish to leave us, and when the
market had quite ceased, they began dancing and
playing with our. people, on the ice alongside. This
exercise set many of their noses bleeding, and discov-
ered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for
their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the
blood ran down, they scraped it with the fingerg
7 8

108

PB00BBS6 OF ABOTIO DnOOYEfiT.

into their mouths, appearing to consider it as a re-
freshment, or dainty, if we might judge by the zest

with which they smacked their lips at each supply.'*
• ««« #»«*

" In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much
as possible, the fiddler was sent on the ice, where ho
instantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of
whom some of the women kept pretty good time.
Their only figure consisted in stamping and jumping
with all their might. Our musician, who was a lively
fellow, soon caught the infection, and began cutting
capers also. In a short time every one on the floe,
ofticers, men, and savages, were dancing together, and
exhibited one of the most extraordinary sights I ever
witnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy
complexion, excited the admiration of all the young
females, who patted his face, and danced around him
wherever he went.

" The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esqui-
maux, that they had the appearance of being boister-
ously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks.
Among others, it was a favorite joke to run slily be-
hind tne seamen, and shouting loudly in one ear, to
give them at the same time a very smart slap on the
other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this
manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the
great amusement of the bystanders : our cook, who
was a most active and unwearied jumper, became so
' great a favorite, that every one boxed his ears so
soundly, as to oblige the poor man to retire from such
boisterous marks of approbation. Among other
sports, some of the Esquimaux rather roughly, but
with great good humor, challenged our people to
wrestle. One man, in particular, who had thrown sev-
eral of his countrymen, attacked an officer of a very
strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown,
and with no very easy fall ; yet, although every one
was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good
humor. The same officer affi^rded us much diversion
by teaching a large party of women to bow.courtesf

■''ii'i'»T^b'ii

PARUY*8 8E<J0ND VOYAGE.

100

who

le 80

irs so

such
other
but

) to
t^n sev*

very
U'own,
one

good

srsioii
[rtesy

shake hands, turn their toes out, and perform sun*
dry oVher polite accomplishments ; the whole party
master and pupils, preserving the strictest gravity.

" Toward midnignt all our men, except the watch on
deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and
hungry Esquimaux returned to their boats to take their
supper, which consisted of lumps of raw flesh and blub-
ber of seals, birds, entrails, &c. ; licking their lingers
with great zest, and with knives or fingers scraping the
blood and grease which ran down their chins into their
mouths."

Many other parties of the natives were fallen in with
during the slow progress of the ships, between Salisbury
and Isottingham Islands, who were equally as eager to
beg, barter, or thieve ; and the mouth was the general
repository of most of the treasures they received ; nee-
dles, pins, nails, buttons, beads, and other small etcete-
ras, being indiscriminately stowed there, but detracting
in nowise from their volubility of speech. On tlie 13tli
of Auffust the weather being calm and fine, norwhals or
sea-unicorns, were very numerous about the ^iiips, and
boats were sent, but without success, to strike one.
There were sometimes as many as twenty of these
beautiful fish in a shoal, lifting at times their immense
horn above the water, and at others showing their
glossy backs, which were spotted in the manner of
coach dogs in England. The length of these fish is
about fifteen feet, exclusive o,f the horn, which averages
five or six more.

Captain Parry landed and slept on Southampton Isl
and. His boat's crew caught m holes on tho beach
Buflicient sillocks, or young coal-fish, to serve for two
meals for the whole ship's company. During the niglit
white whales were seen lying in hundreds close to the
rocks, probably feeding on the sillockst After carefull v
examining Duke of York Bay, tho ships got into tho
Frozen Strait of Middleton on the mornmg of the 20tli,
and an anxious day was closed by passing an opening
to the southward, which was found to be Sir Thomas
Boo's Welcome, and heaving to for the night off a bay

PBOORKSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

■till

to the northwest. The ships got well in to Bepnlse
Bay on the 22d, and a careful examination of its shores
was made by the boats.

Captains Parry and Lyon, with several officers from
each ship, landed and explored the northern shores,
while a boat examined the head of the bay. llie wa-
ters of a long cove are described by Captain Lyon as
being absolutely hidden by the quantities of young
eider-ducks, which, under the direction of their moth-
ers, were making their fii*st essays in swimming.

Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip of a
couple of days along some of the indents of the bay,
and discovered an inlet, which, however, on being en-
tered subsequently by the ships," proved only to be the
dividing channel between an island and the main-land,
about SIX miles in length by one in breadth. Proceed-
ing to the northward by llurd's channel, they expe
rienced a long rolling ground swell setting against them
On the 28th, ascendmg a steep mountam, Captab*
Lyon discovered a noble bay, subsequently named Gor i
Bay, in which lay a few islands, and toward this the »
directed their course.

Captain Parry, who had been two days absent wif i
boats exploring the channel and shores of the strait, r'"-
turned on the 29th, but set off ^ain on the same da 7
with six boats to sound and examine more mimitel;'.
When Parry returned at night, Mr. Griffiths, of tl e
llecla, brought on board a Targe doe, which he ha.J
killed while swimming (among large masses of ice) fro. n
isle to isle ; two others and a fawn were procured ( n
shore by tlie Fury's people. The game laws, as tlik y
were laid down on the former voyage while winteris o
at Melville Island, were once more put in force. Tlic a
" enacted that for the purpose of econoujizing the slii, "s
provisions, all deer or musk-oxen killed should uo
served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat.
Hares, ducks, and other birds were not at this time to
be included. As an encouragement to sportsmen, the
head, legs, and offal of the larger animals were to be
ttie perquisites of those who procured the carcasses foi

'Lj< K ai On' i rn wwiai

pabry's second vofage.

Ill

pulse
norea

, from
hores,
le wa-
ron as
jroung
moth-

p of a
e bay,
ng en-
be the
n-land,
roceed-
' expe
t them
"laptab i
|d Gor (
is the I

nt wif 1
ait, r'"-
ne da 7
untel" '.
of tfe
e ha.i
e) tVo. n
rod c n
s th* y
iteris g
The a
shi, *s
uld uo
meat,
time to
[en, the
to be
}se6 fox

the general good." " In the animals of this day (ob*
Berves Lyon) we were convinced that our sportsmen
had not forgotten the latitude to which their perquisites
might legally extend, for the necks were made so long
as to encroach considerably on the vertebrae of the
back ; a manner of amputating the heads which had
been learned during the former voyage, and, no doubt
would be strictly acted up to in the present one."

While the ships on the 30th were proceeding through
this strait, having to contend with* heavy wind and
wild ice, which with an impetuous tide ran against the
rocks with loud crashes, at the rate of five knots in the
center stream ; four boats towing astern were torn
away by the ice, and, with the men in them, were for
some time in great danger. The vessels anchored for
the night in a small rook, and weighing at daylight
on the Slst, they stood to the eastward, but olore Hay
was found closely packed with ice, and moM of the in-
lots they passed were also beset.

A prevalence of fog, northerly wind, and heavy ice
in floes of some miles in circumference, now carried
the ships, in spite of constant labor asid exertions, in
three days, back to the very spot in Foa's Channel,
where a month ago they haa comm'jnced their opera-
tions. It was not till the 6th of September, that they
could again get forward, and then by ftne of the usual
changes in the navigation of these seaa, the ships r£Cli
well to the northeast unimpeded, at the rate of six
knots an hour, anchoring for the night at the mouth of
a large opening, which was named Lyon Inlet. The
next day they proceeded about twenty-five miles up
this inlet, which appeared to bo about eight miles broad.
C/aptain Parry pushed on with two boats to examine
the head of the inlet, taking provisions for a week.
He returned on the 14th, having failed in finding any
outlet to the place he had been examining, which was
very extensive, full of fiords and rapid overfalls of the
tide. lie had procured a sufficiency of game to ftftbrd
his people a hot supper every evening, which, after the
constant labor of the day, was highly acceptable. H«

:ii:^

1^-:^

'iliil

I '1 !

112

PKOGEE88 OF AROTIO DISCOVERT.

fell in also with b small part^ of natives ^ ho displayed
the nsnal thieving propensities.

Animal food oi all kinds was fonnd to be very plen*
tifhl in this localitv. A fine salmon tront was brought
down by one of the ofiicers from a lake in the moun
tains. The crew of the Ilecla killed in a fortnight four
deer, forty hares, eighty-two ptarmigan, fifty ducks,
three divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, er-
mines, marmottes. mice, &c. Two of the seals killed
wore immense anmfials of the bearded species {Phoca
harbata,) very fat, weighing about eight or nine cwt.;
the others were the common species, {P. vitulina.)

Captain Parry again left in boats, on the 15th, to ex-
amine more carefally the land that had been passed so
rapidly on the 6th and 6th. Not finding him return
on the 24th, Captain Lyon ran down the coast to meet
him, and by burning blue lights, fell in with him at
ten that night. It appeared he had been frozen up
for two days on the second evening after leaving.
When he got clear he ran down to, and sailed round.
Gore Bay, at that time perfectly clear of ice, but by
the next moming it was quite filled with heavy pieces,
which much impeded his return. Once more he was
frozen up m a small bay, where he was detained three
days ; wi^nn, finding there was no chance of getting
out, in consequehce of the rapid formation of young
ic6, by ten hours' severe labor, the boats were carried
over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide, and
once more launched.

On the 6th of October, the impediments of ice con-
tinuing to increase, being met witn in all its formations
of sludges or young ice, pancake ice and bay ice, a
small open buy within a cape of land, forming the
southeast extremity of an island off Lyon Inlet, was
sounded, and being found to be safe anchorage the ships
were brought in, and, from the indications which were
Betting in, it was finally determined to secure them there
for the winter ; by means of a canal half a mile long,
which was cut, they were taken further into the b: /.
The island was named Winter Isle. .

Preparations were now made for oocnpation and

!;iiii

il1y§iwW.<-i l>» t j l . »ll»»il*li rft 'W

MMMH

PARRY 8 SECOND VOi'AGE.

118

;on-

ions

ie, a

the

ras

lips

rere

lero

/•

amusement, so as to pas t away pleasantly the period
of detention. A good stock of toeatrical dresses and
properties having oeen laid in by the officers before
leaving England, arrangements were made for perfonn-
ing plays fortnightly, as on their last winter residence,
as a means of amusing the seamen, and in some degree
to break the tedious monotony of their confinement. As
there could be no desire or hope of excelling, every
officer's name was readily entered on the list of dra-
matis personcB^ Captain Lyon kindly undertaking the
difficufi office of manager. Those ladies (says Lyon^
who had cherished the growth of their beards ana
whiskers, as a defense against the inclemency of the
climate, now generously agreed to do away with such
unfeminine ornaments, and every thing bade fair for a
most stylish theater.

As a curiosity, I may here put on record the play
bill for the evenmg. I have added the ship to which
each officer belonged.

THEATER RO^AL,

WINTEB I0LB.

The Public are respectfully informed tliat this little,
yet elegant Theater, will open for the season on Fri«
day next, the 9th of November, 1821, when will be
performed Sheridan's celebrated Oomedy of

THE RIVALS.

Sir Anthony Absolute Oaptain Parry, (^Wy.)
Captain Absolute - - Captain Jjjon,LBeola»)
Sir Litoius 0^ Trigger^ Mr. Crozier, {Fv/rv})
Faulkla/nd^ ... - lyfr. J. Edwards, (rury.)

AoreSy Mr. J. Henderson, (Jwv.)

Fay, ---.-. Lieut. Uoppner, (JUecla^
Davidj • - • - ~ • • Lieut. Reid, {Fm'v^
Mrs. Malaprop^ - • Mr. C. Richards, {ITeola.)

Julia J Mr. W. H. Hooper, {Fury.)

Lydia Languish^ - - Mr. J. Sherer, {Ifecla.)
Lucy. ... - 'iA.v.W .'ilLog^icVkqf Heela^

PROGKESB OF AKGTIC 1>ISC0VKKT.

Songs by Messrs. C. Palmer, (Ilecla,) and J. Hen-
derson, will be introduced in the course of the eve-
ning.

i> 1 -ii'

^ilill

Uv \'

On the 17th of December, a shiTering set of actors
performed to a great-coated, yet very cold audience,
the comedy of the " Poor Gentleman." A burst of
true English feeling was exhibited during the perform
ance of this play. In the scene where Lieut. Worth-
ington and Corporal Foas recount in so animated a
manner their former achievements, advancing at the
same time, and huzzaing for " Old England," the
whole audience, with one accord, rose and gave three
most hearty cheers. They then sat down, and the
play continued uninterrupted.

On Christmas Eve, in order to keep the people
quiet and sober, two farces were performed, and the
phantasmagoria, (which had been kindly presented
anonymously to tne ships before leaving, by a lady,)
exhibited, so that the night passed merrily away.

The coldness of the weather proved no bar to the
performance of a play at the appointed time. If it
amused the seamen, the purpose was answered, but it
was a cruel task to performers. " In our green-room,
(says Lyon,) which was as much warmed as any other
part of the Theater, the thermometer stood at 16°, and
on a table which was placed over a stove, and about
six inches above it, the coffee froze in the cups. For
my sins, I was obliged to be dressed in the height of
the fashion, as Dick Dowlas^ in the " Heir at Law,"
and went through the last scene of the play with
two of my fingers frost-bitten I Let those who have
witnessed and admired the performances of a Young,
answer if he could possibly ha fe stood so cold a recep-
tion."

Captain Parry also states in his Journal, '^ Among
the recreations which afforded the highest gratifica*
tion to several among us, I may mention the musical
parties we were enabled to muster, and whicfi assem-
bled on stated evenings throughout the winter, altd»*

.11

iii r| i ro»HTri- i ii:i i» >i|CTr i» »n'«llJ li» wi i i

pakky's second voyage.

116

room,

other

,ahd

about

For

:htof

aw,"

with

have

mng,

fecep

long
tifica*
isical

jsem*
laltor

nately in '"bmmander Lyon's cabin, and in my osvn.
More skillful amateurs in music might well have smiled
at these, our humble concerts, but it will not incline
them to think less of the science they admire, to be
assured that, in these remote and desolate regions of
the globe, it has often furnished us with the most
pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable
of affording ; for, independently of the mere gratifica-
tion afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps,
scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in
whose mind its sound is not more or less connected
with ' his far distant home.' There are always some
remembrances which render them inseparable, and
those associations are not to be despised, which, while
we are engaged in the performance of our duty, can
still occasionally transport us into the social circle of
our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll be-
tween us." But their attention was not confined to
mere amusements. Much to the credit of the seamen,
an application was made in each ship for permission
to open an evening school, which was willingly ac-
ceded to. Almost every man could read, and soma
could write a little, but several found that, from long
disuse, it was requisite to begin asain.

Mr. Halse volunteered to supermtend the classes in
theFury; while Benjamin White,a seaman, who had been
educated at Christ's Hospital, officiated as schoolmaster
in the Hecla, and those best qualified to assist aided
in the instruction of their shipmates, who made rapid

E regress under their tuition. On Christmas Day, Capt.
yon states that he received sixteen copies from men,
who, two months before, scarcely knew their letters.
Tliese little specimens were all well written, and sent
with as much pride as if the writers had been good
little schoolboys, instead of stout and excellent seamen.
An observatory was erected on shore, for carrying
on magnetical, astronomical, and other scientific opera-
tions. Foxes were very plentiful about the ships ; fifteen
were caught in one trap in four hours on the night of
the 25th of October, and above one hundred were

i B'

116

PROQKESS OF ASCTIO DISOOVBRT.

either trapped or killed in the coiirfle of three months,
and jet there seemed but little diminution in their
numbei-s. Captain Lyon says he found them not bad
eating, the flesn much resembling that of kid. A pack
of thirteen wolves came occasionally to have a look at
the ships, and on one occasion broke into a snow-house
alongside, and walked oif with a couple of Esquimaux
dogs con^ned there. Bears now and then also made
their appearance.

A very beautifiil ermine walked on board the Hecla
one day, and was caught in a small trap placed on the
deck, certainly the first of these animals which was
ever taken alive on board a ship 400 yards from the
land. The ravenous propensities of even some of the
smallest members of the animal kingdom are exempli-
fied by the following extract : —

"We had for some time observed that in the fire-
hole, which was kept open in the ice alongside, a count-
less multitude of small shrimps were constantly rising
near the surface, and we soon found that in twenty-four
hours they would clean, in the most beautiful manner,
the skeletons."

After attending divine service on Christmas day, the
officers and crews sat down to the luxury of joints of
English roast beef, which had been kept untainted by
being frozen, and the outside rubbed with salt. Cran-
berry pies and puddings, of every shape and size, with
a full allowance of spirits, followed, and, probably the
natural attendance of headaches succeeded, for the
next morning it was deemed expedient to send all th^
people for a run on the ice, in order to put them to
rights ; but thick weather coming on, it became neces-
sary to recall them, and, postponing the dinner hour.
they were all danced sober by one o'clock, the fiddler
being, fortunately, quite as he should be. During this
curious ball, a witty fellow attended as an old cake
woman, with lumps of frozen snow in a bucket ; and
such was the demand for his pies on this occasion, that
he was obliged to replenish pretty frequentlv. Th*»
year had now ^rawn to a close, and all enjoy ft<^ excel-

*MtinM>l

PARBY8 SECOND VOYAGE.

aontba,
1 their
lot bad
A. pack
look at
v-house
aimanz

made

3 Hecla

1 on tho
ich was
rom the
B of the
jxempli-

the fire-
a count-
[y rising
inty-four
manner,

day, the
oints of
nted by
Cran-
ze, with
bly the
for the
all ths
hem to
neceek
hour,
fiddler
ng this
cake
and
ftu, that
Th*»
excel-

lent health, and were blessed with good spirits, and zea)
for the renewal of their arduous exertions in the sum-
mer.

No signs of scurvy, the usual pla^e of such voy-
ages, liaa occurred, and by the plans of Captain Parry,
as carried out on the former voj^age, a snfficiency of
mustard and cress was raised between decks to anord
all hands a salad once, and sometimes twice a week.
The cold now became intense. Wine froze in the bot-
tles. Port was congealed into thin pink lamioae, which
lay loosely, and occupied the whole length of the bot-
tle. "White wine, on the contrary, froze into a solid
and perfectly transparent mass, resembling amber.

On the Ist of February the monotony of their life
was varied by the arrival of a large party of Esqui-
maux, and an interchange of visits thenceforward took
place with this tribe, wnich, singularly enough, were
proverbial for their honesty. Ultimately, however,
they began to display some thievish propensities, for
on one evening in March a most shocking theft was
committed, which was no less than the last piece of
English corned beef from the midshipmcn^s mess.
Had it been an 181b. carronade, or even one of the an-
chors, the thieves would have been welcome to it ; but
to purloin English beef in such a country was unpar-
donable.

On the 16th of March C;\ u Lyon, Lieutenant
Palmer, and a partv of men, left the ship, with pro-
visions, tents, &c., in a large sledge, for an excui-sion
of three or four days, to examine the land in the neigh-
borhood of the ships.

The first night's encampment was anything but com-
fortable. Their tent they found so cold, that it was
determined to make a cavern in the snow to sleep in ;
and digging this aftbrded so good an opportunity of
warming themselves, that the only she /el was lent from
one to the other as a particular favor. After digging
it of sufiicient size to contain them all in a sitting pos-
ture, by means of the smoke of a fire they managed to
raise the temperature to 20°, wd, closing the entrarica

118

PKOGRKSS OF AROTIO DISCOVERY.

I ;

with blocks of snow, crept into their blanket bags and
tried to sleep, with the pleasant reflection that thoii
roof might fall in and bury them all, and that their one
Buade was the only means of liberation after a night's
drift of snow.

They woke next morning to encounter a heavy gale
and drift, and found their sledge so embedded in the
snow that they could not get at it, and in the attempt
their faces ana extremities were most painfully frost-
bitten. The thermometer wajs at 32° below zero ; they
could not, moreover, see a yard of the road ; yet to re-
main appeared worse than to go forward — the last
f)lan was, therefore, decided on. The tent, sledge, and
uggage were left behind, and with only a few pounds
of bread, a little rum, and a spade, the party again set
out ; and in order to depict their suflerings, I must take
up the narrative as related by the commander himself :

"Not knowing where to go, we wandered among
the heavy hummocks of ice, and suffering from cold,
fatigue and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered.
Several of our party now be^an to exhibit symptoms
of that horrid kind of insensibility which is the pre-
lude to sleep. They all professed extreme willingness
to do what they were told in order to keep in exercise,
but none obeyed ; on the contrary, they reeled about
like drunken men. The faces of several were severely
frost-bitten, and some had for a considerable time lost
sensation in their fingers and toes ; yet they made not
the slightest exertion to rub the parts affected, and even
discontinued their general custom of warming each
other on observing a discoloration of the skin. Mr.
Palmer employed the people in building a snow wall,
ostensibly as St shelter from the wind, but in fact to
give them exercise, when standing still must have
proved fatal to men in our circumstances. My atten-
tion was exclusively directed to Sergeant Speckman,
who, having been repeatedly warned that his nose was
frozen, had paid no attention to it, owing to the state
of stupefaction into which he had fallen. The frost<
bite had now extended over one sid«> of his face, whic^i

•i^rrrvms m mifi

^jy^gyisa

FARRT's fiF.CONl> VOt-k.^B.

119

waa frozen as hard as a mask ; the eyelids were stiff,
and one comer of the ijpper lip so drawn np as to
oxpogo the teeth and gums. My hands bein^ still
wiiim, I had the happiness of restoring the circulation,
Jitter wtiich I used all my endeavors to keep the poor
fellow in motion ; but he complained sadly of giddi-
ness and dimness of sight, and was so weak as to be
unable to walk without assistance. His case was so
alarming, that I expected every moment he would lie
down, never to rise again.

" Our prospect now became every moment more
gloomy, and it was but too probable that four of our
party would be unable to survive another hour. Mr.
r aimer, however, endeavored, as well as myself, to
cheer the people up, but it was a faint siHeinpt, as we
had not a single hope to give them, i^ory piece of
ice, or even of small rock or stone, was now supposed
to bo the ships, and we had great difficulty in prevent-
ing the men from running to the different objects which
attracted them, and consequently losing themselves in
the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer was ninning
round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched on a
now beaten track, and as exercise was indispensable,
we determined on following it, wherever it might lead
us. Having taken the Sergeant under my coat, he re-
covered a little, and we moved onward, when to our
infinite joy we found that the path led to the ships."

As the result of tliis exposure, one man had two of
his fingers so badly frost-bitten as to lose a good deal
of the flesh of the upper ends, and for many days it
was feared that he would be obliged to have them am-
jnitated. Quarter-master Carr, one of those who had
l}een the most .hardy while in the air, fainted twice on
getting below, and every one had severe frost-bites in
different parts of the body, which recovered after the
usnal loss of skin in these cases.

One of the Esquimaux females, by name Igloolik,
who plays a conspicuous part in the narrative, was a
general favorite, being possessed of a large fiind of
useful information, having a good voice and ear for

120

PROGRESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERT.

'■'|i

musiu, being an excellent seamstress, and having snch
n good idea of the hydrogninjiy and bearings of the

■ £'.

■ 1 ^'

R''^

I;'

ncighhoring sea-coasts, as to draw charts which guided
Parry mnci in his future operations, for ho foujid her
6ket(;l»08 to be in the main correct. She connected tlio
land from their winter quarters to the nortliwest sea,
rounding and terminating tlie noitheru extremity of
tiiis part of America, by a hirgo island, and a strait of
suHicient magnitude to aftbru a safe passage for the
ships. Tills little northwest passage, observes Lyon,
set us all castle-building, and wo already fancied the
worst part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that
before half the ensuing summer was past, wo should
arrive at Akkoolee, the Esquimaux settlement on the
western shore. Ilalf-way between that coast and Ro
pulse Bay, Igloolik drew on her chart a lake of consid-
erable size, having small streams running Irom it to
the sea, on each side ; and the correctness of this infor-
mation was fully proved by Eae in his recent expedi-
tion in 1846.

On the 13th of April their Esquimaux friends took
their departure tor otner quarters ; towards the end of
the month the crews completed the cutting of trenches
round the vessels, in order that they might rise to their
proper bearings previous to working in the holds, and
the ships floated like corks on their native element,
after their long imprisonment of 191 days. As the
Feason appeared to be improving, another land expedi-
tion was determined on, and Captain Lyon and Lieu-
tenant Palmer, attended by a party of eight men, set
oft' on the 8th of May, taldng with them twenty days'
pi'ovisions. Each mar drew on a sledge 126 Iba., and
the officers 95 lbs. a piece.

" Loaded as we were," says the leader, **it was with
the greatest difficulty we made our way among and
over the hummocks, ourselves and sledges taking some
vei'y unpleasant tu.ables. It required two and a half
nours to cross the ice, although the distance was not
two miles, and we then landea on a small island, where
yre passed the n^'gW

f 11 1 13:^:

■> mf'J'm-tv:!*

PAKRY'8 SECOND VOTAOB.

Several islands and shoals in the strait wor^ naraed
bird's Isles. At noon on the 11th, they cAmned at the
bead of a line bay, to which the nain^b ot i^iake was
given. In spite of all the care which had been taken
by using crape shades, and other coven nge fur the eyes,
Jive of the party became severely afflicted with snow
blindness. Before evening two of the sufferers were
quite blinded by the inflammation. Their faces, eyes,
and even heads, being much swollei), and very red.
Bathing would have afforded relief, but the sun did not

f)roduce a drop of water, and their stock of fuel being
imited, they could only spare enough wood to thaw
snow for their midday uraught.

As the morning of the 12th brought no change in the
invalids, another day was lost. Toward evening, by
breaking pieces of ice, and placing them in the full

§lare of the sun, suflicieut water was obtained, both for
rinking and for the sick to bathe their faces, which
afford eel them amazing relief, and on the morrow they
were enabled to resume their journey. At noon the
sun was sufliciently powerful to afford the ti'avelers a
draught of water, without having to thaw it, as had
hitherto been the case.

For nearly three days after this, they were imprisoned
in their low tent by a snow-storm, but on the morning
of the 18th, they were enabled to sally out to stretch
their legs, and catch a glimpse of the sun. After exam-
ining many bays and indentations of the coast, the party
returned to the ships on the evening of the 21st. A
canal was row cut through the ice, to get the ships to
the open water, in lengtli 2400 feet, and varying in
breadth from 60 to 197 Set. The average thickness of
the ice was four feet, but in some places it was as much
as twelve feet. This truly arduous task had occupied the
crews for fifteen days, from six in the morning to eight
in tb e evening ; but they labored at it with the greatest
spirit and good humor, and it was concluded on tlie 18th
of June, when the officers and men began to take leave
of their several haunts and promenades, pai^ticularly
the " garden " of each ship, wiiich had become favorite

Ill

11 ;lii:!',

:\'\r>

lil M

:!1 t

I Ml

■'-I

.122

PROaRKSS OF AKOTIO DISOOVBBT.

lounges during their nine months' detention. Ai\ i
ill-fated bunting came near enough to be shot, and wee
instantly roasted for a farewell supper, ard bright vis-
ions of active exertions on the water on the morrow
were universally entertained. But the night dispelled
all these airy castles, for with the mornings dawn they
found that the whole body of ice astern of the ships
had broke adrift, filled up the hard-wrought canal, and
imprisoned thepa as firm as ever.

Death now for the first time visited the crews. James
Priiigle, a seaman of the Hecla, fell from the mast-head
lo the deck, and was killed on the 18th of May. Wm.
Souter, quarter-master, and John Reid, Carpenter's
mate, belonging to the Fury, died on the 26th and 27th,
of natural causes. Toward the end of June, the sea
began to clear rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice
soon gave way as far as where the ships were lying, and
on the 2d of July they put to sea with a fresh breeze,
after having been frozen in for 267 days.

In making their way to the northward, they were fre-
quently in much danger. On the 8d, the ice came
down on the Hecla with such force as to carry her on
board the Fury, by which the Hecla broke her best bower
anchor, and cut her waist-boat in two. On the 4th, the
pressure of the ice was so great as to break the Hecla
' adrift from three hawsers. Four or five men were each
on separate pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the
endeavor to run out a hawser. A heavy pressure closing
tlio loose ice unexpectedly gave them a road on board
again, or they must have been carried away by the
stream to certain djestruction. On the 8th, the Ilecla
had got her stream-cable out, in addition to the other
hawsers, and made fast to the land ice, when a verv
heavy and extensive floe took the ship on her broad
side, and being backed by another large body of ice,
gradually lifted her stem as if by the action of a wedge.

" The weight every moment increasing, obliged us,"
says Captain Lyon, " to veer on the hawsers, whose fric-
tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads,
Hnd ultimately to set them on fire, so that it became

iisii- w-

:i:fi;.

1'. "' i' ^

.iV-

PARRY 8 SECOND VOYAGE.

123

3re fre-

[ came

ler on

30wer

h, the

Hecla

eeach

An the

losing

board

the

lecla

other

very

roaa

ice,

jdge.

us;'

tl'lC-

3ad8,
tamo

requisite for people to attend with buckets of Mater.
The pressure was at length too powerful for resistance,
and the stream-cable, with two six and one live- inch
hawsers, all gave way at the same moment, three others
soon foUov/ing them. The sea was too full of ice to
allow the ship to drive, and the only way in which bIio
could yield to the enormous weight which oppressed lier,
was by leaning over on the land ice, while her stem Jit
the same time was entirely lifted to above the heiglit of
five feet out of the water. The lower deck beams now
complained very much, and the whole frame of the
ship underwent a trial which would have proved fat.'il
to any less strengthened vessel. At the same moment,
the rudder was unhung with a sudden jerk, wliich broke
up the rudder-case, and struck the driver-boom with
great force."

From this perilous position she was released almost
by a miracle, and the rudder re-hung.

The ships a; last reached the island which had been so
accurately described to them by the Esquimaux lady —
Iglolik, where they came upon an encampment of
120 Esquimaux, in tents. Captains Parry and Lyon
and other officers made frequent exploring excursions
along the shores of the Fury and Ilecla sti-uit, and in-
land. On the 26th of August the ships entered this
strait, which was found blocked up with fiat ice. The
season had also now assumed so wintry an aspect that
there seemed but little probability of getting much far-
ther west : knowing of no harbor to protect the ships,
unless a favorable change took place, they had the
gloomy prospect before them of wintering in or near
this frozen strait. Boating and land parties were dis-
patched in several directions, to report upon the difi'er-
ent localities.

On the 4th of September, Captain Lyon landed on
un island of slate formation, about six miles to the west-
ward of the ships, which he named Amherst Island. Tlie
result ©f these expeditions proved that it was impracti-
eiiijle, either by boats or water conveyance, to examine
any pjut of the land soutWest of Iglolik, in conse-
quence of the ice. •

124

PBOOJ£i<:ss OF ABcrno dlbgovert.

il ii:i.

Hi!

§1'

Mr. Reid and a hoat-party traveled about sixty milea
to the westward of Amherst Island, and ascertained the
termination of the strait. On a consultation with the
officers, Captain Parry determined to seek a berth near
to Iglolik, in which to secure the ships for the winter.
They had now been sixty-five days struggling to get
forward, but had only in that time reached forty miles
to the westward of Iglolik. The vessels made the best
of their way to the natural channel between this island
and the land, but were for some time drifted with the
ice, losing several anchors, and it was only by hard
work in cutting channels that they were brought into
safer quarters, near the land. Some fine teams of dogs
were here purchased from the Esquimaux, which were
found very serviceable in making excursions on sledges.

Their second Christmas day in this region had now
arrived, and Lyon informs us —

" Captain Parry dined with me, and was treated with
a superb display of mustard and cress, with about fifty
onions, rivaling a fine needle in size, which I had reared
in boxes round my cabin stove. All our messes in
either ship were supplied with an extra pound of real
English fresh beef, which had been hanging at our
quarter for eighteen months. "We could not afford to
leave it for a farther trial of keeping, but I have no doubt
that double the period would not nave quite spoiled its
flavor."

This winter proved much more severe than the for-
mer. Additional clothing was found necessary. The
stove funnels collected a quantity of ice within them,
notwithstanding fires were kept up night and day, so
that it was frequently requisite to take them down in
order to break and melt the ice out of them.

Nothing was seen ot the sun for forty-two days.

On the 15th of A pril, Mr. A. Elder, Greenland mate

of the necla,died of dropsy: he had been leading man

with Parry on Ross's voyage, and for his good conduct

Vas made mate of the Griper, on the last expedition.

On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. George Fife, the
pilot, also died of scurvy.

■1!' ■'

parry's second yotagb.

125

milea
edthe
;h tliG
1 near
idnter.
to get
miles
le best
island
th the
^ hard
tit into
>f dogs
;h were
ledges.
id now

ed with
)ut fifty
I reared
sses in
of real
at our
brd to
doubt
iled its

16 for*

Tho

them,

[ay, so

)wn in

matfi
Ig man

induct
lition.
fe, the

After taking a review of their provisions, and the
robability of having to pass a third winter here, Capt.
arry determined to send the Ilecla home, taking from
licr all the provision that could bo spared. Little or
no hopes could be entertained of anv passage being
found to the westward, otherwise than by the strait now
60 firmly closed with ice ; but Parry trusted that 8ome
interesting additions might be made to the geography
of these dreaiy regions, by attempting a passage to the
northward or eastward, in hopes of finding an outlet to
Lancaster Sound, or Prince Regent's Inlet.

On the 2l8t of April, 1823, they began transshipping
the provisions ; the teams of dogs being found most
useful for this purpose. Even two anchors of 22 cwt.
each, were drawn by these noble animals at a quick
trot.

Upon admitting daylight at the stern windows of the
Ilec-la, on the 22d, the gloomy, sooty cabin showed to
no great advantage ; no less than ten buckets of ice were
tiiken from the sashes and out of the stern lockers, from
wliich latter some spare flannels and instruments were
only liberated by chopping.

On the 7th oi June, Captain Lyon, with a party of
men, set ofi* across the Melville Peninsula, to endeavor
to get a sight of the western sea, of which they had re-
ceived descriptive accounts from the natives, but ow-
ing to the difliculties of traveling, and the ranges of
mountains they met with, tboy returned unsuccessful,
lifter being out twenty days. Another inland trip of a
foi'tnight followed-

On the 1st of August, the Ilecla was reported ready
for sea. Some symptoms of scurvy having again made
their appearance in the ships, and the sui-geous report-
ing tluit it would not be prudent to continue longer,
Cji])tain Parry reluctantly a etermined to proceed home
with both ships. After being 319 days in their winter
quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of August.

A conspicuous landmark, with dispatches, was sot
up on the main-land, for the information of FriMiklin,
shculd he reach thig ouarter.

Sr?SS^"

:! M

128

PBOQBESS OF^iROnO DISOOYSBT.

I m
l;:! iili

On reaching Winter Island ; and visiting their la*
year's garden, radishes, mustard and cress, and onions
were brought off, which had survived the winter and
were still alive, seventeen months from' the time they
were planted, a very remarkable proof of their having
been preserved by the warm coverina: of snow.

The ships, during the whole of this passage, were
driven by the current more than three degrees, entirely
at the mercy of the ice, being carried into every bight,
and swept over each point, without the power of help-
ing themselves.

On the Ist of September, they were driven up Lyon
Inlet, where they were confined high up till the Gtli,
when a breeze sprung up, which took tnem down to
within three miles of Winter Island ; still it was not
until the 12th, that they got thoroughly clear of the in-
draught. The danger and suspense of these twelve
days were horrible, and Lyon justly observes, that he
would prefer being frozen up during another eleven
months' winter, to again passing so anxious a period
of time.

" Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, in
expectation, each tide, of some decided change in oui
affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding
in such fllioal water, that the whole body of the ice must
have slid OFer us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin
expresses himself, ' God, who is greater than either ice
or tide, always delivered us ! ' "

For tliirty-hve davs the ships had been beset, and in
that peiiod had driven with the ice above 300 miles,
without any exertion on their part, and also without a
possibility of extricating themselves. On the 23d of
Bepteiuber, they once more got into the swell of the
Atlaaiic, and on the IGfch of October, arrived at L&r-
wick, L-\ Shetland.

Oi 4v ftvivo's Voyage to Spitzbebgbn and Gbben-

LAND, 1823.

In 18*2.^, (?{vJjV. \<abiLe, R. i., who had been for some
tioTf* vjiio-;igcs1 111 lub^actln observations, and 'Uso ii»

ii^L.

.,■■.»■■ .^iiii^iiiM

<IL.iVEEINQ*8 VOT-IQB.

127

dr la*
on ion a
or and
10 thej^
having

3, were
entirely
r bight,
)f help-

Lyon
e 6tli,
own to
svas not
■ the in-
twelve
that he
eleven
- period

leek, in
in oui

[unding
!e must
Baffin

Iher ice

land in
miles,

bhoiit a
}3dof

I of the

it Ler-

some
ISO ii)

experiments to determine the configuration of the eartli,
by meansofpeudulum vibrations m diflferent latitudes,
having perfected his observations at different points,
from tlie Equator to the Arctic Circle, suggested to the
Royal Society, through Sir Humphry Davy, the impor-
tance of extending similar experiments into higher lat-
itudes toward the I^ole. Accordingly, the government
placed at his disposal H. M. S. Griper, 120 tons. Com-
mander Clavering, which was to convey him to Spitz-
bergen, and thence to the east coast of Greenland:

liie Griper sailed from the Nore, on the 11th of May,
and proceeded to Hammerfest, or Whale Island, near
the Korth Cape, in Norway, which she reached on the
4:th of June, and Capt. Sabine having finished his shore
observations by the 23d, the vessel set sail for Spitzber-
gen. She fell in with ice off" Cherry Island, in lat. 75°
5', on the 27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents
and instruments on one of the small islands round
Hakluyt's Headland, near the eightieth parallel. Capt.
Clavering, meanwhile, sailed in the Griper due north,
and reached the latitude of 80° 20', where being stop*
ped by close packed ice, he was obliged to return.

On the 24:tn of July, they again put to sea, directing
their course for the highest known point of the eastern
coast of Greenland. They met with many fields of ice,
and made the land, which had a most miserable, deso*
late appearance, at a point which was named Cape Bor-
lase warren. Two islands were discovered, and as
Capt. Sabine here landed and carried on his observa-
tions, they were called Pendulum Islands. From an
island situate in lat. 75° 12', to which he gave the name
of Shannon Island, Clavering saw high land, stretch-
ing due north as far as lat. 76°.

On the 16th of August, Clavering landed with a
party of three ofiScers, and sixteen men on the main-
land, to examine the shores. The temperature did not
Bink below 23°, and they slept for nearly a fortnight
they were on shore with only a boat-cloak and blanket
for a covering, without feelin^ any inconvenience from
the cold. A tribe of twelve E]squimaux was met with

"■■ ill'

I Mil;

''%■

128

PB00REB8 OF ABCnO DISOOrEBT.

here. They reached in their journey a magniticenl
inlet, about fifty miles in circumference, which was sup
posed to be the same- which Gale Ilamkcs discovered
m 1654, and which bears his name. The mountains
round its sides were 4000 to 5000 feet high. On the
29th of August, they returned on board, and having
embarked the tents and instruments, the ship again set
sail on the Slst, keeping the coast in view to Cape
Parry, lat. 72 i°. The cliffs were observed to be sev-
eral thousand feet high. On the 13th of September,
as the ice in shore began to get very troublesome, the
ship stood out to sea, and after encountering a very
heavy gale, which drove them with great fury to the
southward, and it not being thought pi-udent to make
for Ireland, a station in about the same latitude on the
Norway coast was chosen instead by Capt. Sabine.
They made the land about the latitude ot Christian-
sound. On the Ist of October, the Griper struck hard
on a sunken rock, but got off undamaged.

On the 6th, they anchored in Drontheim Fi(.>rd,
where they were received with much kindness and hos-
pitality, and after the necessary observations had been
completed the ship proceeded homeward, and reached
Deptford on the 19tn of December, 1823.

Lyon's Voyaob in the Griper.

In 1824, three expeditions were ordered out, to carr^
on simultaneous operations in Arctic discovery. To
Capt. Lyon was committed the task of examining and
completing the survey of the Melville Peninsula, the
adjoining straits, and the shores of Arctic America, if
possible as far as Franklin's turning point. Capt. Lyon
was therefore gazetted to the Griper gun-brig, which
had taken out Capt. Sabine to Spitzbergen, in the pre-
vious year. The following officers and ciow were alao
appointed to her : —

Griper,

Oaptain — G. F. Lyon.

Lieutenants— P. Manico and F. Harding.

V.iajWv-»'*«>**W

lyon'b voyage.

130

lagniticenl
3h was sup
discovered
mountaina
1. On the
md having
ip again set
w to Cape

to he sev-
Septeraher,
lesome, the
ring a very

fury to the
ent to make
itude on the
apt. Sahine.
)t Christian-
- struck hard

heim Fiord,

less and hos-

us had been

nd reached

out, to carry
jcovery. To
mining and
kninsuUa, tlie
I America, it'
Oapt. Lyon
-brig, which
I, in the pre-
Lw were also

Lrding.

ADBistant-Survejor — E. N. KendaL
Purser — J.Evans.
Assistant-Surgeon — W. LeyeoxL
Midshipman — J. Tom.
34 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c
Total complement, 41.

It was not till the 20th of June, that the Grijer eot
kway from England, being a full month later than Bio
usual period of departure, and the vessel was at the
best but an old tub m her sailing propensities. A small
tender, called the Snap^ was ordered to accompany her
with stores, as far as the ice, and having been relieved
of her supplies, she was sent home on reaching Hud-
son's Straits.

The Griper made but slow progress in her deeply la-
den state, her crowded decks being continually 6wej)t
by heavy seas, and it was not until the end of August,
that she rounded the southern head of Soutliampton
Island, and stood up toward Sir Thomas Koe's Wei
come. On reaching the entrance of this channel they
encountered a terrific gale, which for a long time
threatened the destruction of both ship and crew.
Drifting witli this, they brought up the ship wnth four
anchoi's, in a bay with five fathoms and a half water,
in the momentary expectation that with the ebb tide
the ship would take the ground, as the sea broke fear-
fully on a low sandy beach just astern, and had the an-
chors parted, nothing could have saved the vessel.
Neither commander nor crew had been in bed for three
nights, ind although little hope was entertained of sur-
viving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea,
the oflficers and crew perfonned their several duties
with their accustomed coolness. Each man was or-
dered to put on his warmest clothing, and to take charge
of some useful instrument. The scene is best described
in the words of the gallant commander : —

"Each, therefore, brought his bag on deck, and
dressed himself; and in tlie fine atldetic forms which
stood exposed before me, I did not see one muscle qui-

130

PE0QRES8 OF A.ROTIC DISCOVERY.

' ii' i -i'

^'m

■'M

ver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. Prayers were read,
and thev then all sat down in groups, slieltered from the
wash ot the sea by whatever they could find, and some
endeavored to obtain a little sleep. Never, perhaps
was witnessed a finer scene than on the deck of m^
little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Noble as
the character of the British sailor is always allowed to
be in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be pos-
sible that among forty-one persons not one repining
word should have been uttered. Each was at peace
with his neighbor and all the world ; and I am firmly
persuaded that the resignation which was then shown
to the will of the Almiguty, was the means of obtain-
mg His mercy. God was merciful to us, and the tide,
almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate
name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to
this ^pot on the charts by Captain Lyon.

Proceeding onward up the Welcome, they encoun-
tered, about a fortnight kter, another fearful storm.
On the 12th of September, when off the entrance of
Wager Inlet, it blew so hard for two days, that on the
I3th the ship was driven from her anchors, and carried
away by the fury of the gale, with every prospect of •
being momentarily dashed to pieces against any hid-
den rock ; but the same good Providence which had
fio recently befriended them, again stood their protec-
tor. On consulting with his officers, it was unani-
mously resolved, that in the crippled state of the ship,
without any anchor, and with her compasses worse
than useless, it would be madness to continue the voy-
age, and the ship's course was therefore shaped for
England.

I may observe, that the old Griper is now laid up as
a hulk in Chichester Harbor, furnishing a residence
and depot for the coast guard station.

Fabry's Third Voyage.

In the spring of 1824 the Admiralty determined to
%\\e Capt. Parry another opportunity of carrying or I

^^iflaswat*.*. Ti tmSitfrnMH^Vi inw<wi*aainifa-

parry's third V0T1.0B.

181

re rcad^

Tom the
nd some
perhaps
i. of mj
!^oble as
owed to
3 be pos-
repining
at peace
n iirmly
sii Bhown
f obtain-
the tide,
propriate
given to

' encoun-
iil storm,
trance of
at on tho
carried
ispect of *
any bid-
icb bad
r protec-
,8 unani-
|tbe ship,
»B worse
the voy-
,ped for

Lid up as
lesidence

lined to
ring ov\

the great problem which had so long been Bought af-
ter, of a northwest passage to the Pacific, and so gen-
erally esteemed was this gallant commander that he
had but to hoist Lis pennant, when fearless of all dan
ger, and in a noble spirit of emulation, his former aa-
aociates rallied around him.

The same two ships were employed as before, bui
Parry now selected the Hecla for his pennant. The
•taff of officers and men was as follows : —

JSecla,

Captain — W. E. Parry.

Lieutenants — J. L. Wynn, Joseph Sherer, and

Henry Foster.
Surgeon — Samuel Neill, M. D.
Purser — W. H. Hooper.
Assistant Surgeon — W. Rowland.
Midshipmen — J. BruLton, F. R. M. Orozier, 0.

Richards, and H N. Head.
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; and G.

Champion, mate.
49 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines.
Total complement, 62.

Fury,

Commander — H. P. Hoppner.

Lieutenants — H. T. Austin and J. 0. BoMi

Surgeon — A. M'Laren.

Purser — J. Halse.

Assistant Surgeon — T. Bell,

Midshipmen — B. Westropp, 0. 0. Waller, and £.

Bird.
Clerk — "W. Mogg.
Greenland Pilots — G. Crawford, master; T. Don

aldson, mate.
48 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines.
Total complement, 60.

The William Harris, transport, was commissioned
k) accompany the ships to the ice with provisions.

-fi

182

PROGRESS OF AUCTIJ DISCOVERT.

I'i' i

:i^

■i

i'y.

Amon^ the promotions inado, it will bo Been, were
Liont. iloppnor to the rank of Commander, and second
in command of the expedition. Messrs. J. Sherer,
and J. C. lloss to bo Lieutenants, and J. liaise to be
Purser. The attempt on this occasion was to be made
by Lancaster Sound through Barrow's Strait to Prince
Regent Inlet. Tiie ships sailed on the 19th of May,
1824, and a month afk<irward fell in with the body of
the ice in lat. 601°. After transhipping the stores to
the two vessels, and sending homo tue transport, about
the middle of July tbey were close beset with the ice
in Baffin's Bay, and "from this time (says Parry) the
obstructions from the quantity, magnitude, and close-
ness of the ice, which were such as to keep our people
almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or
sawing through it; and yet with so little success that,
at the close of July, we had only penetrated sevenry
miles to the westward." After encountering a severe
gale on the Ist of August, by which masses of overlay-
ing ice were driven one upon the other, the Ilecla was
laia on her broadside by a strain, which Parry says
must inevitably have crushed a vessel of ordinary
strength ; they got clear of the chief obstructions b^
the first week in September, During the whole vi
August they had not one day sufficiently free from
rain, snow, or sleet, to be able to air the bedding of
the ship's company.

They entered Lancaster Sound oil the 10th of Sep-
tember, and with the exception of a solitary berg or
two found it clear of ice. A few days after, however,
they fell in with the young ice, which increasing daily
in thickness, tlie ships became beset, and by the cur-
rent wliich set to the east at the rate of three miles an
hour, they were soon drifted back to the eastward of
Admiralty Inlet, and on the 23d they found them
selves again off Wollaston Island, at the eu*;rance of
Navy Board Inlet. By perseverance, however, and the
aid of a strong easterly breeze, they once more man-
aged to recover their lost ground, and on the 27tb
•*eached the entrance of Port Bo wen cu the eastern

igig». «tf > r ii ^s .itim i i i^m\^ ii nm Mk*^

PARRY 6 TUIliP VOYAOB.

18S

were

jcond
aeror,
to be
made
'rince
May,
)dy of
:)rcs to
, about
the ico
vy) the
close-
people
ing, or
ss that,
ieveiiT.}'
I severe
)verlay-
jcla was
ry says
rdiuary
ions b^
lolfc oi
e from
ing of

man-
^e 27tb
^aBtem

shore of Prince Kegent Inlet, and here Parry rosoivod
upon wintering; this making the fourth winter this
enterprising commander had passed in these inhospi*
table seas.

Tlio usual laborious process of cutting canals had to
be resorted to, in order to get the ships near to the
shore in secure and sheltered situations. Parry thus
describes the dreary monotonous character of an arctic
winter : —

"It is hard to conceive any one thing more like
another than two winters passed in the higher latitudes
of the polar regions, except when variety happens to
be altbrdcd by mtorfourse with seme other branch of
the whole family vt man. Winter after winter, nature
here assumes an aspect so much alike, that cursory o\y
servation can scarcely detect a single feature of variety.
The winter of more temj)erate climates, and even in
some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified
by a thaw, which at once gives variety and compara-
tive cheerfulness to the prospect. But here, when oneo
the earth is covered, all is dreary monotonous white-
ness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than
half a year together. Whichever way the eye is turn-
ed, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the
mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless
torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ;
of any thing, in short, but life. In the very silence
there is a deadness with which a human spectator ap-
pears out of keeping. The presence of man seems an
intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert,
which even its native animals have for awhile forsaken."

During this year Parry tells us the thermometer re-
mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above
that point till the 11th of April. The sun, which had
been absent from their view 121 days, again blessed
the crews with his rays on the 22d of February. Du-
ring this long imprisonment, schools, scientific observa-
tions, walking parties, &c., were resorted to, but " our
foimer amusements," says Parry, " being almost worn
threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any

:a.„

iS4

PK0GUK88 OF AKCTIO DISCOVERT.

|>lan that should possoHS tlio cluirni vf novelty to re
?oiniiK!n(l it." A luippy idea vvuh, however, hit upon by
Coninuiuder lloi)pner, at whoHe HUi^^estiou a monthly
')(il viuttque was held, to the great diversion of iK)lli
otKcers and men, to the nundjer of 120. The })oi)ulai
(!onunander entered gavly into their recreations, and
thus speaks of these jxMar masquerades : —

*^ It is impossible that any idea could have proved
more happy, or more exactly suited to oui situation
Admirably dressed characters of various descrii)tions
readily took their parts, and numy of these were sup-
ported with a degree of spirit and genuine good humor
which would not have disgraced a more refined assem-
bly ; while the latter might not have been disgraced
by copying the good order, decorum, and inoflens've
cheertulness which our liumble masquerades presented.
It does especial credit to the dispositions and good
sense of our men, that though all tlie officers entered
fully into the spirit of tliese annisements, which took
place once a month alternately on board of each ship,
no instance occurred of any thing that could interfere
with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect
of the men toward their superiors. Ours were mas
qncrades without licentiousness — carnivals without
excess."

Exploring parties were sent out in several directions.
Commander Iloppner and his party went inland, and
after a fortnight's fatiguing journey over a mountain-
ous, barren, and desolate country, where precipitous ra-
vines 500 feet deep obstructed their passage, ti'aveled
a degree and three quarters — to the latitude of 73° ID',
but saw no appeannce of sea from thence.

Lieuten&iit Sherer, with four men, proceeded to the
southward, and made a careful survey of the coast as
far as 721^, but had not provisions sufficient to go
round Cape Kater, the southernmost point observed in
their iLrmer voyage. •

Litulenaut J. C. Ross, with a similar party, traveled
to the northward, along the coast of the Inlet, and from
the hills about Cape York, observed that the sea wa»

'■;i rW iii l i H' i n w iM itl iii "- i i . - iiii .fcti;' t ^ iii f, t i IMtu^

PAKBY8 TIHUD YOTAOB.

135

perfectly open and frco from ice at the diBtiincc of
twenty-two niilcR trom the Hhipfl.

After Hii imj)risoniuent of nl>out ten monthH, by ^iwal
exertionfl tlie fihipH were ^ot clear from tho ice, uihI ou
till! 2<mIi of July, 1825, upon the Reparation of tlii» lloe
across tho harhcr, towed out to sea. l*arry then iiiado
for the western bhoro of the Inlet, heing desirous of ex-
amining; the coast of North Somerset for any cliamiel
that might occur, a prohubility which later discoveries
in tiiat quarter have proved to bo without foundation.
On tlie 28th, when well in with tho western shore, the
Ileela, in spite of every exertion, was beset by floating
ice, and after breaking two large ice anchors' in en-
deavoring to heave in snore, was obliged to give up tho
effort and drift with the ice until the 30th. On the
following day, a heavy gale, came on, in which tlio
Ileela carried away three hawsers, while the Fury was
driven on shore, but was hoVe oft* at high water. Both
siiips were now drifted by the body of tho ice down the
Inlijt, and took the ground, the Fury being so nipj)e(l
and strained that she leaked a great deal, and four
pumps kept constantly at work did not keep her clear
of water. They were floated off" at high water, but,
late on the 2nd of August, the huge masses of ice once
more forced the Fury on shore, and the Ileela narrowly
escaped. On examining her and getting her off, it
was found that she must be hove down and repaired ;
a basin was therefore formed for her reception and
completed by the 16th, a mile further to the southward,
within three icebergs grounded, where there were three
or four fiithoms of water. Into this basin she was
taken on the 18th, and her stores and provisions being
removed, she was hove down, but a gale of wind com-
ing on and destroying tlie masses of ice which shel-
tered her, it became necessary to re-embark the stores,
&c., and once more put to sea; but the imfortunato
vessel had hardly got out of her harbor before, on the
•21st, she was again driven on shore. Aflter a can^ful
suivey and examination, it was found necessary tc
abandon her : PaTy'a opinion being thus expressed —

136

PROGRESS OF AJ6OTI0 DXflCX)VERT.

ill

&:f-,4'

-i,', I

l!i;
%'

" Every endeavor of oure to get her off, or if got off, to
float her to any known place of safety, womd be at
once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of ex-
treme risk to our remaining ship."

The loss of this ship, and the crowded state of tha
remaining vessel, made it impossible to think of con-
tinuing the voyage for the purposes of discovery.

" The incessant labor, the constant state of anxiety,
and the frequent and imminent danger into which the
surviving sliip was thrown, in the attempts to save her
comrade, which were continued for twenty-five days,
destroj^ed every reasonable expectation hitherto cher-
ished of the ultimate accomplishment of this object."

Taking advantage of a northerly wind, on the 27th
the Hecla stretched across the Inlet for the eastern
coast, meeting with little obstruction from the ice, and
anchored in Weill's Harbor, a short distance to the
southward of their winter quarters. Port Bowen, where
tlie ship was got ready for crossing the Atlantic.

The Ilecla put to sea on the 31st of August, and en-
tering Barrow's Strait on the Ist of September, found
it perfectly clear of ice. In Lancaster Sound, a very
large number of bergs were seen ; but they found an
open sea in Baffin's Say, till, on the 7th of September,
when in latitude 75° 30', they came to the margin of
^he ice, and soon entered a clear channel on its eastern
side. From thirty to forty large icebergs, not less than
200 feet in height, were sightea.

On the 12th of October, Captain Parry landed at
Peterhead, and the Ilecla arrived at Sheerness on the
20th. But one ^an died during this voyage — John
Page, a seaman of the Fury — who died of scurvy, in
Neill's Harbor, on the 29th of August.

This voyage cannot but be considered the most unsuc-
cessful of ci.e three made by Parry, whether as regards
the information gleaned on the subject of a northwest
passage, or the extension of our store of geographical
or scientific knowledge. The shores of this inlet were
more naked, barren, aiul desolate tlian even Melville
Island. With the exception of some hundreds of white

i i

II iiii^

FBANKLIn's second EXrEDITION.

137

Led at

)n the

John

fvy, in

msuc-

kgards

Ihwest

)hical

were

.'Iville

I white

whales, seen sporting about the southernmost part of
the Inlet that was visited, few other species of animals
were seen.

"We have scarcely," says Parry, "ever visited a coast
on which so little or animal life occurs. For days to-
getlier only one or two seals, a single sea-horse, and
now and then a flock of ducks were seen."

He still clings to the accomplishment of the great
object of a north >vest passage. At page 184 of his offi-
cial narrative, he says: —

" I feel confident that the undertaking, if it be deemed
advisable at any future time to pursue it, will one day
or other be accomplished ; for — setting aside the acci-
dents to which, from their very nature, such attempts
must be liable, as well as other unfavorable circum-
stances which human foresight can never guard against,
or human power control — I cannot but believe it to
be an enterprise well within the reasonable limits of
practicability. It may be tried often and fail, for seve-
ral favorable and fortunate circumstances must be com-
bined for its accomplishment ; but I believe, neverthe-
less, that it will ultimately be accomplished."

" I am much mistaken, indeed," he adds, " if the
northwest passage ever becomes the business of a single
summer ; nay, I believe that nothing but a concurrence
of very favorable circumstances is likely ever to make
a single winter in the ice sufficient for its accomplish-
ment. But there is no argument against the possibility
of final success ; for we Imow that a winter m the ice
may be passed not only in safety, but in health and
comfoi-t."

Kot one winter alone, bnt t«ro and three have been
passed with health and safety in these seas, under a
wise and careftil commander.

F&AifKLiN's Second EzrEDmoN, 1825-26.

Undaunted by the hardships and sufferings he had
encountered in his previous travels with a noble spii .t
of ardor and enthusiasm, Captain Franklin determined

138

PROGRESS OF ARCllO DISCOVERT.

me';.

I :v;t

to prosecute the chain of his former discoveries from
the Coppermine river to the most western point of the
Arctic regions. A sea expedition, under the command
of Captam Beechev was at the same time sent round
Cape Horn to Behrmg's Straits, to co-operat« with Parri*
and Franklin, so as to furnish provisions to the former,
and a conversance home to the latter.

Captain Franklin's offer was therefore accepted by
the government, and leaving Liverpool in February,
1825, he arrived at New York about the middle of
March. The officers under his orders were his old and
tried companions and fellow sufferers in the former jour-
ney — Dr. Richardson and Lieutenant Back, with Mr.
E. N. Kendal, a mate in the navy, who had been out in
the Griper with Capt. Lyon, and Mr. T. Dri:;;im ,i, a
naturalist. Four boats, specially prepared tOi tLa pur-
poses of the expedition, were sent out by the Hudson's
Buy Company's ship.

In July, 1825, the party arrived at Fort Chipewyan.
It is unnecessary to go over the ground and follow them
in their northern journey; suffice it to say, they reached
Groat Bear Lake in safety, and erected a winter dwell-
ing on its western shore, to which the name of Fort
Franklin was given. To Back and Mr. Dease, an offi-
cer in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, were in-
trusted the arrangements for their winter quarters.

From here a small party set out with Franklin down
the Mackenzie to examine the state of the Polar Sea.
On the 6th of September they got back to their com
panions, and prepared to pass the long winter of seven
or eight months.

On the 28th of June, 1826, the season being suffi-
cientlv advanced, and all their preparations completed,
the whole partv got away in four boats to descend the
Mackenzie to the rolar Sea. "Where the river branches
off into several channels, the party separated on the Sd
of July, Captain Franklin and Lieutenant Back, whh
two boats and fourteen men, having with them tiia
faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, who had
been with them on the former expedition, prov^eodei? to

franklin's second expedition.

139

I from

of the

imand

round

Parri>

x)rmer,

ted by
t)ruary,
Idle of
)ld and
er jour-
ith Mr.
3 out in
\.i:(.^-, a
;uo pur-
udson's

3ewyan.
)W tliem
reached
r dwell-
of Fort

an offi-
rere in-

jrs.

Qdown

ar Sea.

r coir
seven

ig suffi-
mleted,
Ind the
knches
the 3<1
., wi\!'
mi iiii
JO }\a(i
fdeO to

the westward, while Dr. Richardson and Mr. Keudul
in the other two boats, having ten men under their
command, set out in an easterly direction, to search
the Coppermiaie River.

FranKlin arrived at the month of the Mackenzie on
tile 7th of July, where he encountered a large tribe of
fierce Esquimaux, who pillaged his boats, and it was
only by great caution, prudence and forbearance, tliiit
the whole party were not massacred. After gettin<^ the
boats afloat, and clear of these unpleasant visitors,
Fi-anklin pursued his survey, a most tedious and difh-
cnlt one, for more than a month ; he was only able to
rejicli a point in latitude 70° 24' N., longitude 149° 37'
VV^., to which Back's name was given ; and here pru-
dence obliged him to return, although, strangely enongli,
a boat from the Blossom was waiting not 160 miles west
of his position to meet with him. The extent of coast
Burveyed was 374 miles. The return journey to Fort
Franklin was safely accomplished, and they arrived at
their house on the 31st of September, when they found
Richardson and Kendal had returned on the first of
the month, having accomplished a voyage of about 500
miles, or 902 by the coast line, between the 4th of July
and the 8th of August. They had pushed forward l)c-
vond the strait named after their boats, the Dolphin and
Union.

In aseei dln<j ♦ihe Coppermine, they had to abandon
their Ixmis and carry their provisions and baggage.

Ilavinw passed another winter at Fort Franklin, as
soon as the season broke- up the Canadians were dis-
missed, and the party returned to England. .

The cold experienced in the last winter was intense,
the thermometer standing at one time at 58° below zero,
but having now plenty of food, a weather-tight dwell-
ing, and good health, they passed it cheerfully. Dr.
Richardson gave a course of lectures on practical geol-
ogy, and Mr. Drummond furnished information on natn-
rfd liistory. During the winter, in a solitary hut on the
Rocky mountains, he managed to collect 200 specimens
of birds, animals, &c., and more than 1500 of plants.
9 F* ^

140

PE0GRES8 OF ARC3TI0 DISCOVERT.

When Captain Franklin letl England to proceed on
this expedition he had to undergo a severe struggle
between his feelings of affection and a sense of duty.
His wife (he has been married twice) wa^ then lying at
tlie point of deatli, and indeed died the day after he
loft England. But with heroic fortiti\de she urged hia
departure at the very day appointed, entreating him,
as lie valued her peace and his ow^n glory, not to delay
a moment on her account. Ilis feelings, therefore, may
be inferred, Ijut not described, when lie had to elevate
on Garry Island a silk flag, which she had made and
pv'^i} him as a parting gift, with the instruction that
ne «v ily to hoist it on reaching the Polar Sea.

tit 1

Bbbohby's Voyage. — 1826-28.

H. M. 8L00P Blossom, 26, Captain F. W. Beechey,
sailed from Spithead on the 19th of May, 1825, and
her instructions directed her, after s^ veying some of
the islands in the Pacific, to be in Benring's Straits by
tiie summer or autumn of 1826, and contingently in that
of 1827.

It is foreign to my purpose here to allude to those
parts of her voyage anterior to her arrival in the Strait^

On the 28th of June the Blossom came to an anchoi
oif the town of Petropolowski, where she fell in with
the Eussian ship of war Modesto, under the commano
of Baron "Wrangel, so well known for his enterprise it
the hazardous expedition by sledges over the ice to thf
northward of Cape ShelatSKoi, or Errinos.

Captain Beechey here found dispatches informinf
him of the return of Parry's expedition. Being bes^
by currents and other difliculties, it was not till the 5tb
of July that the Blossom got clear of the harbor, and
made the best of her way to Kotzebue Sound, reaching
the appointed rendezvous at Chamiso Island on the 25th.
After landing and burying a barrel of flour upon Puffin
Rock, the most unfrequented spot about the island, the
P.lopRom occupied the time in 8"arveying and examining

BEECIIEY B VOrAQE.

the neighboring coaats to the northeast. On the 30th
pho took her departure from the island, orectina^ posts
or land-marks, and burying dispatches at Cape Krusen-
6tern, near a capo which he named after Franklin, near
Icy Oape.

The ship returned to the rendezvous on the evening
of the 28th of August. The barrel of flour had been
dug up and appropriated by the natives.

On the first visit of one of these parties, they con-
structed a chart of the coast upon the sand, of which,
however, Captain Beechey at first took very little notice.
" They, however, renewed their labor, and performed
their work upon the sandy beach in a very ingenious and
intelligible manner. The coast line was lirst marked
out with a stick, and the distances regulated by the
day's journey. The hills and ranges of mountains were
next shown by elevations of sand or stone, and the
islands represented by heaps of pebbles, their propor-
tions being duly attended to. As the work proceeded,
some of the bystanders occasionally suggested altera-
tions, and Captain Beechey moved one of the Diomede
Islands, which was misplaced. This was at first ob-
jected to by the hydrographer, but one of the party
recollecting that the islands were seen in one from Cape
Prince of Wales, confirmed its new position and made
the mistake quite evident to the others, who were much
surprised that Captain Beechey should have acy knowl-
edge of the subject. When the mountains and islands
were erected, the villages and fishing-stations were
marked by a number of sticks placed upright, in imita-
tion of those which are put up on the coast wherever
these people fix their abode. In time, a complete hy-
drographical plan was drawn from Cape Derby to Cape
Krusenstem.

This ingenuity and accuracy of description on the
part of the Esquimaux is worthy of particular remark,
and has been verified by almost all the Arctic explorers.

The barge which had been dispatched to the cast-
ward, under <*.harge of Mr. Elson, reached to latitude
U° 23' 31" Nn and longitude 156° 21' 31" W., wlior«

142

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY

\ll''

1: , i

1 ■ ■■■ :

(■

■ !

pi
ilii'

:l'i>:

,|M,;:,'

H^Vft t>Ui'' .

!■

£ h^'

'ii'':^'.'

iHW I'M

* ij] Hi' r

'i:r;' "'■

she was stopped by tlie ice wliicli was attached to the
shore. " The farthest tongue of land they readied was
named Point Barrow, and is about 126 miles northeast
of lev Cape, being only about 150 or 160 miles from
Franklin's discoveries west of the Mackenzie river.

The wind suddenly clianging to southwest, the com-
pact body of ice began to drift with the current to the
northeast at the rate of three and a half miles an hour,
and Mr. Elson, finding it difficult to avoid large floating
masses of ice, was obliged to come to an anchor to pre-
vent being driven back. " It was not long before he was
60 closely beset in the ice, that no clear water could
be seen in tiny direction from the hills, and the ice
continuing to press against the shore, his vessel was
driven upon the beach, and there left upon her broad-
side in a most help! ^ss condition ; and to add to his
cheerless prospect vhe disposition of the natives, wltorn
he found to increase in numbers as ho advanced, to the
northward, was of a very doubtful chai'acter. At Point
- I^arrow, where they were very numerous, their over-
bearing behavior, and the thefts they o]^enly prac-
ticed, left no doubt of what would be the iiite of hin
little crew, in the event of their

falling into

f.ii

l^ower. They were in this dilemma t^everal days, dur-
ing which every endeavor was made to extricate the
vessel but without effect, and Mr. Elson contenijilated
sinking her secretly in a lake that was near, to ])i evont
her falling into the hands of the Esquimaux, and then
Uiaking his way along the coast in a baidar, which he
bad no doubt he should be able to purchase from the
natives. At length, however, a change of wind loos-
ened the ice, and after considerable labor and trial, in
which the personal strength of the officers was united
to that of the seamen, Mr. Elson, with his shipmates,
fortunately succeeded in effecting their escape.

Captain Beechey was very anxious to remain in

Kotzebue Sound until the end of October, the period

• named in his instructions, but the rapid a])proach o+'

winter, the danger of being locked up, having only

five weeks' provisions left, and the nearest point at

beechey's voyage.

143

which he could replenish being some 2000 miles dis-
tant, induced his officers to concur w?th him in the
necessity of leaving at once. A barrel of flour and
other articles were buried on the sandy point of Cha-
miso, for Franklin, which it was hoped would escape
the prying eyes of the natives.

After a cruise to California, the Sandwich Islands,
Loochoo, the Bonin Islands, <fec., the Blossom returned
to Chamiso Island on the 6th of July, 1827. They
found the flour and dispatches they had left the pre-
vious year unmolested. Lieut. Belcher was dispatched
in the barge to explore the coast to the northward, and
the ship followed her as soon as the wind permitted.
On the 9th of September, when standing in for the
northern shore of Kotzebue Sound, the ship drifting
with the current took the ground on a sand-bank near
Ilotham Inlet, but the wind moderating, as the tide
rose she went oflT the shoal apparently without injur}'.

After this narrow escape from shipwreck they beat
up to Chamiso Island, which they reached on the 10th
of Se])tember. Not finding the barge returned as ex-
pected, the coast was scanned, and a signal of distress
found flying on the southwest point of Choris Pen
insula, and two men waving a white cloth to attract
notice. On landing, it was found that this party wei'e
the crew of the barge, which had been wrecked in Kot-
zebue Sound, and three of the men were also lost.

On the 29th a collision took place with the natives,
which resulted in three of the seamen and four of the
marines being wounded by arrows, and one of the na-
tives killed by the return nre.

After leaving advices for Franklin, as before, the
Blossom finally left Chamiso on the 6th of October.
In a haze and strong wind she ran between the land
and a shoal, and a passage had to be forced through
breakers at the imminent danger of the ship's striking.
The Blossom then made the best of her way homtj,
reaching England in the first week of October, 1828

1 i

1 '.

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

iff yu

f: :;;!;:

Parry's Fourth, or Polar Voyage, 1827.

Im 1826, Capt. Parry, who had only returned
from his last voyage in the close of the preced-
ing year, waa much struck by the suggestions of
Mr. Scoresby, in a paper read before the Werne-
rian Society, in which he sketched out a plan for
reaching the highest latitudes of the Polar Sea,
north of Spitzbergen, by means of sledge boats
drawn over the smooth fields of ice which were
known to prevail in those regions. Col. Beaufoy,
F. R. S., had also suggested this idea some years
previously. Comparing these with a similar
plan originally proposed by Captain Franklin,
and which was placed in his hands, by Mr. Bar-
row, the secretary of the Admiralty, Capt. Parry
laid his modified views of this feasibility of the
project, and his willii.gness to undertake it, be-
fore Lord Melville, the First Lord of the Admir-
alty, who, after consulting with the president
and council of the Royal Society, sanctioned the
attempt; accordingly, his old ship, the Hecla, was
fitted out for the voyage to Spitzbergen, the fol-
lowing officers, (all of whom had been with Parry
before,) and crew being appointed to her: —

Hecla.

Captain—W. E. Parry.

Lieutenants — ^J. C. Ross, Henry Foster, E. J.
Bird, F. R.M. Crozier.

Purser — James Halse.

Surgeon — C. J. Beverley.

On the 4th of April, 1827, the outfit and prep-
arations being completed, the Hecla left the
Nore for the coast of Norway, touching at Ham-
merfest, to embark eight reindeer, and some
moss sufficient for their support, the consump-
tion being about 4 lbs. per day, but they can go
without food for several days. A tremendous
gale of wind, experienced off Hakluyt's Head-
land; and the quantity of ice with which the ship
was in consequence beset, detained the voyagers
fgr nearly a month, but on the ISth of June,

PAREY 8 FOURTH VOTAQB.

145

a Boutherljr wind dispersing the ice, they dropped
anchor in a cove, on the northern coast of Spitzbergen,
whio.h appeared to offer a secure haven, and to which
the name of the ship was given. On the 20th, the
boats, which had been especially prepared in England
for this kind of journey, were got out and made ready,
and they left the ship on the 22d of June. A descrip>
tion of these boats may not here be out of place.

They were twenty feet long and seven broad, flat
floored, like ferry boats, strengthened and made elas-
tic by sheets of felt between the planking, covered
with water-proof canvass. A runner attached to each
side of the keel, adapted them for easy draught on the
ice after the manner of a sledge. They were also fit-
ted with wheels, to be used if deemed expedient and
useful. Two officers and twelve men were attached
to each boat, and they were named the Enterprise and
Endeavor. The weight of each boat, including pro-
visions and every requisite, was about 8780 lbs. Lieuts.
Crozier and Foster were left on board, and Capt. Parry
took with him in his boat Mr. Beverley, Surgeon, while
Lieut, (now Capt. Sir James) Ross, and Lieut* (now
Commander) Bird, had charge of the other.

The reindeer and the wheels were given up as use-
less, owing to the rough nature of the ice. Provision"
for seventy-one days were taken ~ the daily allowance
per man on the journey being 10 ozs. biscuit, 9 ozs.
pemmican, 1 oz. sweetened cocoa powder (being
enough to make a pint,) and one gill of rum ; but
scanty provision in such a climate, for men employed
on severe labor ; three ounces of tobacco were also
served out to each per week.

As fuel was too bulky to transport, spirits of wine
were consumed, w^ich answered all the purposes re-
quired, a pint twice a day being found sufficient to
warm each vessel, when applied to an iron boiler by a
shallow lamp with seven wicks. After floating the
boats <br about eighty miles, they came to an unpleas-
ant mixed surface of ice and water, where their toilsome
joiu'iiey commenced, the boats having to be laden and

140

PROGRESS OF AUCnO DISCOVERT.

||:

■ 1 i

•ill

.:'l''r, ,■''■

MM, i :
I Pi vl ' ' ■

I pi:

liili

unladen sevtiral times according as they came to floea
of ice or lanes of water, and they were drifted to the
southward by the ice at the rate of four or five miles a
day. Parry found it more advantageous to travel by
night, the snow being then harder, and the inconveii'
ience of snow blindness being avoided, while the i)arty
enjoyed greater warmth during the period of rest, and
had better opportunities of drying their clothes by the
sun.

I cannot do better than quote Parry's graphic de-
scription of this novel course of proceeding : " Travel-
ing by night, and sleeping by day, so completely in-
verted the natural order of things that it was difficult
to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers
and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chro-
nometers, could not always bear in mind at what part
of the twenty-hours we had arrived ; and there were
several of the men who declared, and I believe truly,
that they never knew night from day during the whole
excursion.

" When we rose in the evening, we commenced onr
day by prayers, after which we took off our fur sleep-
ing-dresses and put on clothes for traveling ; the former
being made of camlet lined with raccoon skin, and the
latter of strong blue cloth. "We made a point of al-
ways putting on the same stockings and boots for
traveling in, whether they had been dried during the
day or not, and I belic^e it was only in five or six in-
stances at the most that they were not either still wet
or hard frozen. This indeed was of no consequence,
beyond the discomfort of first putting them on in this
state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a
quarter of an hour after commencing our journey ;
while, on the other hand, it was of vital importance
to koep dry things for sleeping in. Being ' rigged '
for traveling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and
biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats, and
on the sledges, so as to secure them as much as pos-
sible from wet, we set off on our day's journey, and
usually traveled four, five, or even six hours, accord-
ins: to circumstances."

PAItRV^S FOt/KTH VOYAGB.

147

this

in a

I'ney ;

Itance

;ged'

and
I, and

poa-
L and
Icord

In five days, notwithstanding their perseverance
and continued journeys, they found, by observation at
noon, on tlie 30th, that they had only made eight mile?
of direct northing.

At Walden Island, one of the Seven Islands, and
Little Table Island, reserve supplies of provisions were
deposited to fall back upon in case of necessity.

In halting early in the morning for the purposes of
rest, the boats were hauled up on the largest piece of
ice tliat offered the least chance of breaking through,
or of coming in contact with other masses, the snow or
wet was cleaned out and the sails rigged as awnings.
"Every man then immediuioly put on dry stockings
and fur boots, after which we set about the necessary
repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving
the provisions for the succeeding day, we went to sup-
per. Most of the officers and men then smoked their
pipes, wliich served to dry the boats and awnings very
much, and usually raised the temperature of our lodg-
ings 10° or 15°. Tliis part of the twenty-four hours
was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment
to us ; the men told their stories, and fought all their
battles o'er again, and the labors of the day, unsuccess-
ful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular
watch was set during our resting time, to look out for
bears, or for the ice oreaking up round us, as well as
to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man alter-
nately taking this duty for one hour. We then con-
cluded our day with prayers, and having put on oui
fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort
which perhaps few persons would imagine possible un-
der such circumstances, our chief ineon 3nience being,
that we were somewhat pinched for room, and there-
fore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agree-
able.''

This close stowage may be imagined when it is re-
membered that thirteen persons had to sleep in a boat
seven feet broad. After sleeping about seven hours,
they were roused from their slunabers by the sound of
a bugle from the cook and watchman, which announced

148

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

.'i

■P!';

1»;1.'

1-E

ftif

tliat thoir cocoa was smoking hot, and invited them Iq
breakfast.

Their progress was of the most tedious and toilsome
character, heavy showers of rain rendering the ice on
many occasions a mass of " slush ;" on others there was
from six to eighteen inches of snow lying on the sur-
face. Frequently the crew had to proceed on their
hands and knees to secure a footing, and on one occa-
sion they made such a snail-like progress that in two
hours they only accomplished 150 yards. On the 12th
of Jul^, they had reached the latitude of 82° 14' 28".
After nve hours' unceasing labor on the 14th, the pro-
gress was but a mile and a half due north, though
from three to four miles had been traversed, and ten at
least walked, having made three journeys a great part
of the way ; launched and hauled up the boats ibur
times, ana dragged them over twenty-five separate
pieces of ice. On the 18th, after eleven hours ^f ao-
tual labor, requiring for the most part the exer of
the whole strength of the party, they had traveL - ^ver
a space not exceeding four iniles, of which only two
were made good.

But on halting on the morning of the 20th, having
by his reckoning accomplished six and a half miles in
a N. N. "W. direction, the distance traversed being teii
miles and a half. Parry found to his mortification from
observation at noon, that they were not five miles to
the northward of their place at noon on the 17th,
although they had certainly traveled twelve miles in
that direction since then.

On the 2l8t, a floe of ice on which they had lodged
the boats and sledges, broke with their weight, and all
went through with several of the crew, who, with the
sledges were providentially saved.

On the 23d, the farthest northerly point was reached,
which was about 82° 46'.

At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the
meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, " by which,"
says Parry, " we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23",
BO that since our last observation (at midnight on the

FABRY 8 FOURTH YOTAGIB.

149

two

Idged
\d all
the

3hed,

the
lich,''
1 23",

the

22d,) we had lost by drift no loss tlinn thirtoon and a
half miles, for we wore now nioro than three niilos to the
aonthward of thut observation, thongli we had certainly
traveled between ten and eleven, dno north in this
interval I A<;ain, we were but one mile to tiie nortli
of our place at noon on the 2l8t, though we had esti-
mated our distance made good at twenty-three miles."
After encountering every species of fatigue and dis-
heartening obstacle?, in peril of their lives almost (}V{:ry
hour, Parry now became convinced that it was hope-
less to pursue the journey any further, and he could
not even reach the eighty -third parallel ; tor after thir-
ty-five days of continuous and most fatiguing diiulg-
ery, with half their resources expended, and the mid-
dle of the season arrived, he found that the distance
gained in their laborious traveling was lost by the
drift and sea of the ice with I'le soiilherly current dur-
ing the period of rest. After planting their ensigns
and pennants on the 26th, and making it a day of rcot
on the 27th, the return to the southward was com-
menced. Nothing particular t)ccurred. Lieutenant
Koss managed to bring down with his gun a fat she
bear, which came to have a look at the boats, and af-
ter gormandizing on its tlesh, an excess which may
bo excused considering it was the first fresh meat they
had tasted for many a day, some symptoms of indi-
gestion manifested themselves among the party.

On the outward journey very little of animal life
was seen. A passing gull, a solitary rotge, ^wo seals,
and a couple of files, were all that their eager eyes
could detect. But on their return, these became more
numerous. On the 8th of August, seven or eight nar-
whals were seen, and not Icos tium 200 rotges, a fiuck
of these little birds occuring in every hole of water.
On the. 11th, in latitude til^ 30', the sea was found
crowded with shrimps and other sea insects, ou which
numerous birds were feeding. On this day they took
their last meal on the ice, being fifty miles distant from
Table Islaud, having accomplished in fiteen days wiiat
had token thorn thirty Hhree to etiect on their ontwi^rd

150

PE00RES8 OF AROTIO DISCOVERT.

t:f^

■it'-

i If'

joiiniev. On the 12th, they arrived at this ishind. Tlie
hears had walked ott' with the relay of hread which
had heeu deposited there. To an inlet lyiu*;- uR' Tiil)le
iHhiiid, and the most northern known land upon tlio
gluhe, Parry gave the name of Eoss, for '• no individ-
ual," he observes, " could have exerted hiuiself mure
btronuously to rob it of this distinction."

Putting to sea again, a storm obliged the boats tu
bear up fur Walden Island. " Every thing bekwigmg tu
us (says Captain Parry) was now completely drenclied
by tlie spray and snow ; we had been fifty -six huuit?
without rest, and forty-eight at work in the buatj-, su
that by the time they were unloaded we had barely
stre!igtli left to haul tiiem up on the rocks. IJuwever,
by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats
above the surf ; after which a hot supper, a bla/iii^
lire of drift wood, and a few hours quiet rest, restored
us."

They finally reached the ship on the 2lBt of August,
after sixty-one days' absence.

''Tlie distance traversed during this excursion was
o()D get)graphical miles ; but allowing for the times we
h.'id tu return fur our baggage, during the greater part
of the journey over the ice, we estimated our actual
traveling at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute miles.
Considering our constant exposure to wet, cold, and
ratigue, our stockings having generally been drenched
in snow-water for twelve hours out of every twenty-
tour, I had great reason to be thankful for the excellent
health in which, upon the whole, we reached the ship,
Thei'e is little doubt that we had all become in a certain
degree gradually vveaker for some time past ; but only
tliree men of our party now required medical cave —
two of tiieni with badly swelled legs and general de
bility, and the other from a bruise, but even these threb
returned to their duty in a sliort time."

In a letter from Sir W. E. Parry to Sir John Barrow,
dated November 25, 1845, he thus suggests some im
provemeuts on his old plan of proceedings * —

" It is evident (he says) that the causes of failure ii)

'^^

tniM. •^■ijrt-

PAUllY^B FOLin'tl VOYAGE.

151

was
we

•jii't

Mill

.08.

and

'0"W

im
6 <o

our former attempt, in the year 1827, were principally^
two : ii'st, and chiefly, thj broken, ^";ggea, and 8ot\
Ftate of the ice over which we traveled : Mnd secondly,
the drilling of the whole body of ice in a south erly
direction.

" My amended plan is, to so out with a single ship
to Spitzbergen, just as we did in the Ilecla, but not so
early in the season ; the object for that year being
merely to find secure winter quarters as far north as
possible. For tliis purpose it would onlj be necessary
to reach Hakluyt's Jleadland by the end of June,
which would aflord ample leisure for examining the
more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands,
where, in all probability, a secure nook might be found
for the ship, and a starting point for the proposed ex-
pedition, some forty or hfty miles in advance of the
point where the Ilecla was before laid up. The winter
might be usefully employed in various preparations for
the journey, as well as in magnetic, astronomical, and
meteorological observations, of high interest in that
latitude. I propose that the expedition should leave
the qhip in the course of the month of April, when the
ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over
which., as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult
to make good thirty mi. js per day, without any expo-
sure to wet, and probably without snow blindness. At
this season, too, tlie ice would probably be stationary,
and thus the two great difficulties which we formerly
had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It might
form a part of the plaa to pusli out supplies previously,
to the distance of 100 mile r, to be taken up on the
way, so as to commence the journey comparatively
light ; and as the intention would be to complete the
enterprise in the course of the month of May, before
iiuy disruption of the ice, or any material soflening of
the surface had taken place, similar supplies might be
sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on
their return."

The late Sir John Barrow, in his la^jt «*orIc, com-
menting on this, says, " With i '^ deference to so dii-

152

rROORKHS OK^AKCTIO DISCOVERT.

if':'«

''1. J

^■i I pp.'

'II :

|:|-;i| lip;

t i« :■

tinguished a sea officer, in possession of so much expe-
rience as Sir Edward Parry, there are others who
express dislike of such a plan ; and it is not improba-
ble that many will be disposed to come to the conclu-
sion, that so long as the Greenland Seas are hampered
with ice, so long as floes, and hummocks, and heavy
masses, continue to be formed, so long as a determined
southerly current prevails, so long will any attempt to
carry out the plan in question, in like manner fail. Ko
laborious drudgery will ever be able to conquer the
opposing piwress of the current and the ice. liesides,
it can hardly be doubted, this gallant officer will admit,
on further consideration, that this unusual kind of dis-
gusting and unseamanlike labor, is not precisely such
as would be relished by the men ; and, it may be said,
is not exactly fitted for a British man-of-war's-man ;
moreover, that it required his own all-powerful example
to make it even tolerable." Sir John therefore sug-
gested a somewhat different plan. He recommended
that two small ships should be sent in the early spring
along the western coast of Spitzbergen, where usually
no impediment exists, as far up as 80°. They sliould
take every opportunity of proceeding directly to tlie
north, where, in about 82°, Parry has told us the large
floes had disappeared, and the sea was found to bo
loaded only with loose, disconnected, small masses of
ice, through which ships would find no difficulty in
sailing, though totally unfit for boats dragging ; and as
this loose ice was drifl;ing to the southwam, he further
says, that before the miadle of August a ship iiight
have sailed up to the latitude of 82°, almost without
touching a piece of ice. It is not then unreasonable to
expect that beyond that parallel, even as far as tlie
pole itself, the sea would be free of ice, during the six
summer months of perpetual sun, through eacn of the
twenty-four hours ; which, with the aid of the current,
would, in all probability, destroy and dissipate the
polar ice.

The distance from Haklnyt's Headland to the pole
18 600 jreographical miles. Granting the 8hip« to irake

parry's FOtiJTn VOYAGE.

158

uld
the
kir^e
So
of
in
d as
tlier
ight

lOlll

le to
tlie
six
the

lent,
the

)ole
lake

only twenty miles in twenty-four hours, (on the snppo-
Bition of much sailing ice to go through,) even in that
case it would require but a month to enable the ex-
j)lorer to put his foot on the pivot or point of the axie
on which the globe of the earth turns, remain there u
month, if ncccssarv, to obtain the sought-for inforraa
tion, and then, with a southerly current, a fortnight
probably less, would bring hira back to Spitzbergen. *

In a notice in the Quarterly Review of this, one of
the most singular and perilous journeys of its kind
ever undertaken, except perhaps that of Baron Wran-
gell upon a similar enterprise to the northward of Behr-
ing's Straits, it is observed, — "Let any one conceive
for a moment the situation of two open boats, laden
with seventy days' provisions and clothing for twenty-
eight men, in the midst of a sea coverea nearly with
detached masses and floes of ice, over which these
boats were to be dragged, sometimes up one side of a
rugged mass, and down the other, sometimes across the
lanes of water that separate them, frequently over a
surface covered with deep snow, or through pools of
water. Let him bear in mind, that the men had little
or no chance of any otl -upply of provisions (nar'
that which they carried witii tln'm alciilated aa ast
sufficient to sustain life, and coiib" r what their situa-
tion would have been in the event, hj no means an
improbable one, of losing any part of their scanty
stock. Let any one try to imagine to himself a siiua-
tion of this kind, and he will stul have but faint idea
of the exertions which the men under Captain Parry
had to make, and the sufferings and privationp they
had to undergo."

Captain Parry having thus completed his .iith voy-
age into the arctic regions, in four of which he com-
manded, and was second in the other, it may here be
desirable to give a recapitulation of his services.

In 1818 he was appointed Lieutenant, commanding
the Alexander, hired ship, as second officer with his
uncle, Commander John Koss. In 1819, still as Lieu-

• Barrow's Voyages of Discovery, p. 316.

154

PROGRESS OP AROnO DISCOVERT.

!!■

I;' Hi

urn :

i* !^"- !

tenant, he was appointed to command the Hecla, and
to take charge of tne second arctic expedition, on which
service he was employed two years. On the 14th of
November, 1820, ne was promoted to the rank of
Commander.

On the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean
Gold Medal of the Bath and West of England Society
for the EncoTirag ment of Arts, Manufactures, and
Commerce, was unanimously voted to him. On the
30th of December of that year, he was appointed to
the Fury, with orders to take command of tne expedi-
tion to the Arctic Sea. With the sum of 600 guineas,
subscribed for the purpose, " the Explorer of the Polar
Sea " was afterward presented with a silver vase,
highly embellished with devices emblematic of the
arctic voyages. And on the 24th of March, 1821, the
city of Bath presented its freedom to Captain Parry, in
a box of oak, highly and appropriately ornamented.
On the 8th of November, 1821, he obtained his post-
captain's rank. On the 22d of November, 1823, he
was presented with the freedom of the city of Win-
chester ; and, on the 1st of December, was appointed
acting hydrographer to the Admiralty in the place of
Captain Hind, deceased. In 1824 he was appointed to
the Hecla, to proceed on another exploring voyage.

On the 22d of November, 1825, Captam Parry was
formally appointed hydrographer to the Admiralty,
which office he continued to hold until the lOtii of
November, 1826.

In December, 1825, ho was voted the freedom of the
borough of Lynn, in testimony of the high sense enter
tained by the corporation of his meritorious and enter
prising conduct.

In April, 1827, he once more took the command of
his old ship, the Ilechi, for another voyage of discovery
toward the North Pole. On his return in the close of
the year, having paid off the Hecla at Deptford, h«
resumed, on the 2a of November, his duties as hydro-
grapher to the Admiralty, which office he held unti!
♦he 13th of May, 1829. Having received the lv»uor of

CA.ITAIN R0S8 S SECOND VOYAGE.

155

the
[er
ler

knighthood, he then resigned in favor of the present
Admiral Beaufort, and, obtaining permission from tlie
Admiralty, proceeded to New South Wales as resident
Commissioner to the Australian Agricultural Com
pany, taking charge of their recently acquired lar«i;e
territory in the neighborhood of Port Stephen, lie
returned from Australia in 1834. From the 7th vt'
March, 1835, to the 3d of February, 1836, he acted as
Poor Law Commissioner in Norfolk. Early in 1837,
he was appointed to organize the Mail Packet Service,
then transferred to the Admiralty, and afterward, in
April, was appointed Controller of steam machinery to
the Navy, which office he continued to hold up to De-
cember, 1846. From that period to the present time
he has filled the post of Captain Superintendent of the
Royal Navy Hospital at Haslar.

Captain John Ross's Second Voyage, 1829-33.

In the year 1829, Capt. Ross, the pioneer of arctic
exploration in the 19th century, being anxious once
more to display his zeal and enterprise as well as to
retrieve his nautical reputation from those unfortunate
blunders and mistakes which had attached to his first
voyage, and thus remove the cloud which had fur
nearly ten years hung over his professional charactei",
endeavored without efl'ect to induce the government
to send him out to the Polar Seas in charge of another
expedition. The Board of Admiralty of that day, in
the spirit of retrenchment which pervaded their coun-
cils, were, however, not disposed to recommend any
further grant for research, even the Board of Longi-
tude was abolished, and the boon of 20,000^. offered
by act of parliament for the promotion of arctic dis
cuvery, also withdrawn by a repeal of the act.

Captain Ross, however, undaunted by the chilling
iudinerence thus manifested toward his proposals by
the Admiralty, still persevered, having devoted 3000/.
out of his own funds toward the prosecution of the ob-
ject he had in view. lie was fortunate enough tc
10 G

156

PKOORESS OF AUCTIC UlSCOVEKT.

!Tm

ti.{

meet with a public-spirited and afflu«»nt coadjutoi And
Bupporter in the late Sir Felix Booth, the eminen dis-
tiller, and that gentleman nobly contributed 17,000^.
toward the expenses. Captain Boss thereupon set to
work, and purchased a small Liverpool steamer named
the Victory, whose tonnage he increased to 160 tons.
She was provisioned for three years. Captain Ross
chose for his second in command his nephew. Com*
niander James Eoss, who had been with him on his
first arctic expedition, and had subsequently accompa-
nied Parry in all his voyages. The other officers of the
vessel were — Mr. William Thom, purser ; Mr. George
M'Diarmid, surgeon ; Thomas BlanKy,Tho8. Abernethy,
and George Taylor, as 1st, 2d, and 3d, mates ; Alex-
ander Brunton and Allen Macinnes as 1st and 2d engi-
neers ; and nineteen petty officers and seamen ; making
a complement in all of 28 men.

The Admiralty furnished toward the purposes of the
expedition a decked boat of sixteen tons, called the
Krusenstern, and two boats which had been used by
Franklin, with a stock of books and instruments.

The vessel being reported ready for sea was visited
and examined by the late King of the French, the
Lords of the Admiralty, and other parties taking an
interest in the expedition, and set sail from Woolwich
on the 2Jd of May, 1829. For all practical purposes
the steam machinery, on which the commander had
greatly relied, was foimd on trial utterlv useless.

Having received much damage to her spars, in a
severe gale, the ship put in to the Danish settlement of
Ilolsteinberg, on the Greenland coast, to refit, and
sailed again to the northward on the 26th of June.
They found a clear sea, and even in the middle of Lan-
caster Sound and Barrow's Strait perceived no traces
of ice or snow, except what appeared on the lofty sum-
mits of some of the mountains. The thermometer stood
at 40°, and the weather was so mild that the officers
dined in the cabin without a fire, with the skylight
partially open. On the 10th of August they passed
Cape York, and thence crossed over into Eegent Inlf ^

OASTAIH KO&BiS bEtVJ!fD VOVAaA.

157

If ^

aiaking the westeiii coast between Sepping's and Elwin
Bay on the 16th.

They here fell in with those formidable streams
packs, and floating bergs of ice which had oliured suet
obstructions to Parry's ships. From their proximity tc
the magnetic pole, their compasses became useless as
they proceeded southward. On tbc 13th they reached
the spot where the Fury was abanaoned, but no rem
nants of the vessel were to bt* seen. All her sails,
stores, and provisions, on land, were, however, found ;
the hermetically-sealed tin canisters having kept tht
provisions from the attacks of bears ; and the flour
bread, wine, spirits, sugar, &c., proved as good, aftei
being here four years, as on the first day they were
packed. This store formed a very seasonable addition,
which was freely made available, and after increasing
their stock to two years and ten months' supply, the^
still left a large quantity for the wants of any future
exj)lorer8. On the 15th, crossing Cresswell Bay, they
reached Cape Garry, the farthest point which had been
seen by Parry. They were here much inconvenienced
and delayed by fogs and floating ice. While moun-
tains of ice were tossing around them on every side,
they were often forced to seek safety by mooring them-
selves to these formidable masses, and drifting with
them, sometimes forward, sometimes backward. In thia
manner on one occasion no less thnn nineteen miles
were lost in a few hours ; at other times they under-
went frequent and severe shocks, yet escaped any seri-
ous damage.

Captain Ross draws a lively picture of what a ves-
sel endures in sailing among these movmt^ hills. IIo
reminds the rettder that ice is stone, as solid as if it
were granite ; and he bids him " imagine these moun-
tains burled through a narrow strait by a rapid tide,
meeting with the noise of thunder, breaking from each
other's precipices huge fragments, or rendinfy each
other asunder, till, losing their former equilibrium,
they fell over headlong, lifting the sea around in break-
ers and whirling it m eddies. There is not a moment

158

FBOOBESB OF AKOTIO OISCOV£fi,r.

In which it can be conjectured what will happen in the
next ; there is not one which may not be the last. The
attention is troubled to iix on any thing amid such cod
fusion ; still must it be alive, that it may seize un the
single moment of help or escape which may occur
Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of all, there
is nothing to be acted, — no effort to be made, — ha
must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless,
waiting, as he best can, for the fate, be it what it may,
which ne cannot influence or avoid."

•Proceeding southward, Koss found Brentford Bay,
about thirty miles beyond Cape Garry, to be of consid-
erable extent, with some fine harbors. Landing here,
the British colors were unfurled, and the coast, named
after the promoter of the expedition, was taken posses-
sion -of in the name of the King. Extensive and com-
modious harbors, named Ports Logan, Elizabeth, and
Eclipse, were discovered, and a large bay, which was
called Mary Jones Bay. By the end of September
the ship had examined 300 miles of undiscovered coast
The winter now set in with severity, huge masses of
ice began to close around them, the thermometer sani
many degrees below freezing point, and snow fell very
thick. By sawing through the ice, the vessel was got
into a secure position to pass the winter, in a station
which is now named on tlie maps Felix Harbor. The
n\achinery of the st^am engine was done away with,
the vessel housed, and every measure that could add to
the comfort of the crew adopted. They had abundance
of fuel, and provisions that might easily be extended
to three years.

On the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a
large tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and
cleaner than those more to the northward. They dis-
played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and
uearings of the country over which they had traveled,
and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neigh-
boring coasts, with which they were familiar ; thia
was revised and corrected by a learned lady named
Teriksin, — the females seeming, from this and former

aii'J^ iiii'SfiMfflg j h' l '"'''''"^ ■"'"'' eg

CAPTAIN ROSS's SECOND TOTAOB.

159

mce
ided

land
dis-
land
ked,
ligli-
Itnia
led

Instunccs, to have a clear knowledge of the hydrography
and geography of the continent, Days, straits, and riv
era wLicTi they had once traversed.

On the 6th of April, Commander Ross, with Mr,
Blanky, the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set
out to explore a strait which was reported as lying to
the Westward, and which it was hoped might lead to
the western sea. After a tedious and arduous journey
they arrived, on the tl^ird day, at a bay facing to tne
westwartl and discovered, further inland, an extensive
lake, called by the natives Nie-tyle-le, whence a broad
river flowed into the bay. Their guides informed them,
however, there was no prospect of a water comunica-
tion south of their present position. Capt. Ross then
traced the coast fifty or sixty miles further south.

Several journeys were also made by Commander
Ross, both inland and along the bays and inlets. On
the Ist of May, frotn the top of a high hill, he observed
a large inlet, which seemed to lead to the western sea.
In order to satisfy himself on this point, he set out
again on the 17th of May, with provisions for three
weeks, eight dogs, and tnree companions. Having
crossed the great middle lake of the isthmus, he reached
his former station, and thence traced an inlet which
was found to be the mouth of a river named by them
Garry. From the high hill, they observed a chain of
lakes leading almost to Thorn's feay, the Victory's sta-
tion in Felix Harbor. Proceeding northwest along the
coast, they crossed the frozen surface of the strait which
has since been named after Sir James Ross, and came
to a large island which was called Matty ; keeping
along its northern shore, and passing over a narrow
strait, which they named after Wellington, they found
themselves on what was considered to be the main-
land, but which the more recent discoveries of Simpson
have shown to be an island, and which now bears the
name of King William's Land. Still journeying on-
ward, with difficulties continually increasing, from
heavy toil and severe privation, the dogs became ex-
hausted with fatigue, and a burden rather than an a»d
to the travelers.

w5 ^

160

PROGRESS OF ARCTIO DISCOVERT.

r* Iff

%■

i;f

One of their greatest embarrassments was, how to
distinguish between land and sea. " When aU is ice,
and all one dazzling mass of white — when the surface
of the sea itself is tossed up and fixed into rocks, while
tlie land is, on the contrary, very often flat, it is not
always so easy a problem as it might seem on a super-
ficial view, to determine a fact which appears in words
to be extremely simple." Although their provisions
began to fall short, and the party were nearly worn
out. Commander Boss was most desirous of matdng as
much western discovery as possible ; therefore, depos-
iting every thi-ig that could be dispensed with, he
pushed on, on the 28th, with only four aays' provisions,
and reached Cape Felix, the most northern point of
this island, on the following day. The coast here took
a southwest direction, and there was an unbounded ex-
panse of ocean in view. The next morning, after hav-
mg traveled twenty miles farther, they reacted a point,
which Ross called Point Victory, situated in lat. 64*
^0' 19", long. 98° 32' 49", while to the most distant one
in view, estimated to be in long. 99° 17' 68", he gave
the name of Cape Franklin. However loath to turn
back, yet prudence compelled them to do so, for as
they had only ten days' short allowance of food, and
more than 200 miles to traverse, there could not bo a
moment's hesitation in adopting this step. A high
cairn of stones was erected before leaving, in which
was deposited a narrative of their proceedings.

The party endured much fatigue and suffering on
their return journey ; of the ei^t dogs only two sur-
vived, and the travelers in a most exhaustea state a:
rived in the neighborhood of the large lakes on the 8th
of June, where they fortunately fell in with a tribe of
natives, who received them hospitably, and supplied
them plentifully with fish, so that after a day's rest
they resumed tneir I'oumey, and reached the ship on
the 13th. Captain Ross in the meanwhile had made a

f)artial survey of the Isthmus, and discovered another
arge lake, wnich he named after Lady Melville.
After eleven months' imprisonment their little ship

"iiaa^SS

OArTAlJN KOSS'S (8EC0ND VOTAOE.

161

once more floated bnoyaot on the waves, having been
released from her icy barrier on the 17th of September,
but for the next few days made but little progress,
being beaten about among the icebergs, ana driven
hither and thither by the currents.

A change in the weather, however, took place, and
on the 23(1 they were once more frozen in, the sea in &
woek after exhibiting one clear and unbroken surface.
A.11 October was passed in cutting through the ice into
a more secure locality, and another dreary winter hav-
ing set in, it became necessary to reduce the allowance
of provisions. This winter was one of unparallelcO
severity, tl e thermometer falling 92° below freeziii^j;
point. During the ensuing spring a variety of explo
ratory journeys were carried on, and in one of those
Commander Ross succeeded in planting the British
flag on the North Magnetic Pole. The position which
had been usually assigned to this interesting spot hy
the learned of Europe, was lat. 70° N., and long. 98^
80' W. ; but Ross, by careful observations, determined
it to lie in lat. 70° 5' 17" N., and long. 96° 46' 45" W.,
to the southward of Cape Nikolai, on the western shore
of Boothia. But it has since been foimd that the cen-
ter of magnetic intensity is a movable point revolving
within the frigid zone^

" The place of the observatorv," Ross remarks, " was
as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which
I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of
the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89°
59', being thus within one minute of the vertical ;
while the proximity at least of this pole, if not its ac-
tual existence where we stood, was further confirmed
by the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the
several horizontal needles then in my possession."

Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant
only from the site determined by Ross.

" Vs soon," continues Ross, " as I had satisfied my
own «nind on the subject, I made known to the ]mvty
this gratifying resul* oi all our joint labors; and it was
then tVftt amidst mutual congratulations, wo fixed thv

162

PROGKE88 OF AROTIO DISCOVERT.

B ill

^M ' :h ..'lu. iM I'll'-'

British Ang on the spot, and took possession of tho
North Mjignetic Pole and its adjoining territory in tliu
name of Sreat Britain and King Williiun JV. Wo
had abundance of materials for uuilding in tlie fra^'-
ments of limestone that covered the beach, and \vu
therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under
which we buried a canister containing a record of the
interesting fact, only regretting that we had not the
means of constructing a pyramid of more im])()rtancc,
and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of
time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pyramid
as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it
woula have done more than satisfy our ambition under
the feelings of that exciting day."

On the 28th of August, 1831, they contrived to warp
the Victory out into the open sea, and made sail on
the followmg morning, but were soon beset with ice,
as on the former occasion, being once more completely
frozen in by the 27th of September.

On the previous occasion their navigation had been
three miles; this year it extended to four. This j)ro-
tracted detention in the ice made their present posi-
tion one of great danger and peril. As there seemed
no prospect of extracting their vessel, the resolution
was come to of abandoning her,* and making the best
of their way up the inlet to Fury Beach, there to avail
themselves of the boats, provisions, and stores, M'hi'^h
would assist them in reaching Davis' Straits, where
they might expect to fall in with one of the whale
ships.

On the 23d of April, 1832, having collected all that
was useful and necessary, the expedition set out, drag-
ging their provisions and boats over a vast expanse of
rugged ice. "The loads being too heavy to be car-
ried at once, made it necessary to go backward and
forward twice, and even oftener, the same day. Tl»ey
had to encounter dreadful tempests of snow and dnv\
and to make several circuits in order to avoid iui])a*
sable barriers. The general result was, that by the
I2th of May they had traveled 329 miles to gain thirtv

CAPTAIN aOSS'S SECOND VOTAOK.

16a

'ail

lero
lale

Ihat
;ar- -

the
Irtv

in a direct line, having in this labor expended a
month." After this prelmiinary movement, thev bade
a farewell to their little vessel, nailing her coLrs tu
the mast. Capt. l^oss describes himself as deeply af-
fected ; this bein^ t?ie first vessel he had been omiged
to abandon of thirty-six in which he had served dur
ing the course of fort) -two years. On the 9th of Juno
Comiuander Eoss and two others, with a fortnight*^
j)rovi8ious, left the main body, who were more heav
ily loaded, to ascertain the state of the boats and sup-
plies at Fury Beach. Returning they met their com-
rades on tlie 25th of June, reporting that they hud
found three of the boats washed away, but enough siill
left for their purpose, and all the provisions were in
good condition. The remainder of the journey was
accomplished by the whole party in a week, and on
the 1st of July they reared a canvas mansion, to
which they gave the name of Somerset House, and
enjoyed a hearty meal.

By tl»e 1st of August the boats were rendered ser-
viceable, and a considerable extent of open fe 'la being
visible, they set out, and after much buneting among
the ice in their frail shallops, reached the mouth of
the inlet by the end of August. After several fruit-
less attempts to run along Barrow's Strait, the obstruc-
tions of the ice obliged them to haul the boats on shore,
and pitch their tents. Barrow's Strait was found, from
repeated surveys, to be one impenetrable mass of ice.
After lingering here till the third week in September,
it was unanimously agreed that their only resource
was to fall back on the stores at Fury Beach, and there
spend their fourth winter. They were only able to get
half the distance in the boats, which were hauled on
shore in Batty Bay on the 24th of September, and
the rest of their journey continued on foot, the pro-
visions being dragged on sledges. On the 7th of Oc-
tober they once more reached their home at the scene
of the wreck. They now managed to shelter their
canvas tent by a wall of snow, and setting up an ex-
tra stove made themselves tolerably comfortable until

164

rUOOUWrt Oir AlUrrH; lUHCoVfcllT.

% .

,. ■!

14.

I*- -:•-

tlia iticrotisinu; novorily of tho winter, nnd rigor of
the coWy julAod to tho toni|»«Htuous woatlior, nuido
tliem ]>orroct priBotiors, luni soroly tried tiioir pivtionco.
8curvy now beiran to attuck Bovoral of tho party, and
on tiio lOtli of Pobrniiry, 1833, Tlionias, tho caroontor,
fell 11 victim to it, and two »)tliora died. "Their bitu-
ution waa becoming trnly awfnl, since, if they were
not liberated in the ojmning Mntnnier, little proHpect
ttp[>eared of their Hnrviviiiji; another year. It was
necessity to make ft retlnction in the allowance of
preserved meats; broad was Boniowhat doliciont, and
the stock of wine and flpirits vvaH entirely exhauHled.
]!owevor, }i8 they canj^ht a few foxes, which were con-
ridered a delicacy, and there was plenty of tlonr,
sugar, sonps, and vegetables, a diet could bo easily
arranged sutlicient to support the parhy."

While tho ice remained tirm, auvantage was taken
of tho spring to carry forward a stock of provisions to
Hatty Hay, and this, though only thirty-two miles, oc-
cupied them a whole month, owing to their reduced
numboi'S from sickness and heavy loads, with the jour-
neyingis to and fro. having to go over tho ground eight
times.

On tho 8th of July they iinally abandoned this de-
pot, and encamped on the 12th at their boat station u?
mtty Bay, whore the aspect of tho sea was watched
with intense anxiety for more than a month. On the
15th of August, taking advantage of a lann of water
which led to the northward, tho party embarked, and
on tho following mornitig had got as far as tho turn-
ing point of their last year's expedition. Making their
wav slowlv among the masooa of ico with which the
inlet was encumbered, on the 17th they found the wide
expanse of Barrow's Stuait open before them, and rtav-
vablo, and reached to within twelve miles of Capo
iTork. Pushing on with renewed spirits, alternately
:.iwing and sailing, on the night of tho 25th they
.ested in a good harbor on the eastern shore of Navy
Board Inlet. At four on the following morning thev
Were rou*'sd frori their slumbers by the joyful intelli

[m h.^ JgEliJJM P JP HI MlHil

OArrAIN K0HBir3 BlCtJCJNb VOYAOK.

106

V of

3UC0.

, jind
inter,

wore

t was
CO «f
t, iind
ufitod.
con-
tour,
easily

taluMJ
ions to
les, OC-

e jour-
oi^i»t

19 do-
ion ii>
atched
On t,\ie

water
d, and
) turn-
g thoir
ch the
le wido

d Tlav-
|f Cape

nately

they

Navy

g thev

intelli

goncc of a ship being in wiglit, and never did men
more Inirriediy and oriergeticilly set out; hut the ele-
n)entH couRpiring agaiuHt them, after being baflled by
cahuH and currentH, tliey had the minery to Hee the
fillip leave them wiMi a lair breeze, and found it im
poRfiihle to overtake her, or make themHelves Hccn. A
few houiii later, however, their deH|)air waw relieved by
the sight of another veHnel which wan lying to in a calm,
liy dint of hard rowing they were thin time more for
tunate, and soon came up with her; nhe j)rovcd to be
the iHabella, of Hull, the very bhip in which IIohh had
made his firBt voyage to thcHo ReaH. Capt. Uohh wan
told circumHtantially of IiIh own dca'n, &c., two yvm'H
previously, and he luid nome difliculty in convincing
them that it was really he and his party who now HtoocJ
before them. So great was the joy with which they
were received, that the Iflabella manned her yardH,
and lior former commander and hifi gallant band of
adventurers were saluted with three hearty cheerR.
The scene on board can scarcely be dcRcribed ; each
of the crew vied wiia the other in aesiHting and com-
forting the i)arty, and it cannot better be told than in
RoRs's own words : —

"The ludicrous soon took place of all other feolingB ;
in such a crowds and such confusion, all seriouH thought
was impossible, while llie new buoyancy of our spirits
made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene
which now opened. Every man was hungry, and was
to be fed ; all were ragged, and were to be clothed ;
there was not one to wnom washing was not indispen-
sable, nor one whom his beard did not deprive of all
human scr lolance. All, every thing too, was to be done
at once : it was washing, shaving, dressing, eating, all
intermingled ; it was all the materials of each jumbled
together, while in the midst of all there w^re intermina-
ble questions to bo a^ked and answered on both sides '
the adventures of the Victory, our own escapes, the
politics of England, and the news which was now four
yea'iB old.

*• But all subsided into peace at last. The sick woir

PROGRESS OP ARCrriC DISCJOVERT.

i^'

fttjcommoclated, the seamon disposed of, aud all was
done tor us which care and kindness could perform.

" Night at length brought quiet and serious thoughts,
and I trust there was not a man among us who did not
then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that
interposition which had raised us all from a despair
which none could now forget, and had brought us from
the very borders of a most distant grave, to life and
fi'iends and civilization. Long accustomed, however,
to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few
could sleep amid the comfort of our new accommoda-
tions. I was myself compelled to leave the bed which
had been kindly assigned me, and take my abode in a
chair for the night, nor did it fare much better with the
rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden and
violent change, to break through what had become
habit, and inure us once more to the usages of our
former days.'*

The Isabella remained some time longer to prosecute
the fishery, and left Davis' Strait on her homeward
passage on the 30th September. On the 12th of Oc-
tober they made the Orkney Islands, and arrived at
Hull on the 18th. Tlie bold explorers, who had long
been given up as lost, were looked upon as men risen
from the grave, and met and escorted by crowds of
sympathizers. A public entertainment was given to
them by the townspeople, at which the freedom of the
town was presented to Captain Ross, and next day he
left for London, to report to the Admiralty, and was
honored by a presentation to the king at W indsor.

The Admiralty liberally rewarded all the parties,
except indeed Captain Ross. Commander J. C. Rosa
was appointed to the guardship at Portsmouth to com-
plete his period of service, and then received his post
rank. Mr. Thorn, the purser, Mr. M'Diarraid, the. sur-
geon, and the petty officers, were appointed to good
situations in the navy. The seamen received the usual
double pay given to arctic explorers, up to the time
of leaving their ship, and full pay from that date until
their arrival in England.

i I'

CAPTAIN Ross's SECOND VOYAGE.

167

Irties,

iRosa
I com-
post
siir-
igood
baual
time
luuti]

A committee of the House of Commons took up the
case of Captain Ross early in the session of 1834, and
on their recommendation 5,000/. was granted him as a
remuneration for his pecuniary outlay and privations.

A baronetcy, o:i the recommendation of the same
committee, was also conferred by his Majesty William
IV. on Mr. Felix Booth.

In looking back on the results of this voyage, no im-
partial inquirer can deny to Captain Ross the merit of
na\'in^ effected much good by tracing and surveying
the wnole of the long western coast of Regent Inlet,
proving Boothia to be a peninsula, and setting at rest
the probability of any navigable outlet being discovered
from this inlet to the Polar Sea. The lakes, rivers and
islands which were examined, proved with sufficient
accuracy the correctness of the information furnished to
Parry by the Esquimaux.

To Commander James Ross is due the credit of
resolvinff many important scientific questions, such as
the combination ot light with magnetism, fixing the
exact position of the magnetic pole. He was also the
only person in the expedition competent to make obser-
vations in geology, natural history and botany. Out
of about 700 miles of new land explored. Commander
Ross, in the expeditions which he planned and con-
ducted, discovered nearly 500. He had, up to this
time, passed fourteen summers and eight winters in
these seas.

The late Sir John Barrow, in his " Narrative of Voy-
ages of Discovery and Research," p. 518, in opposition
to Ross's opinion, asserted that Boothia was not joined
to the contment, but that they were "completely divi-
ded by a navigable strait, ten miles wide and upward,
leading past Back's Estuary, and into the Gulf (of
Boothia,) of which the proper name is Akkolee, not
Boothia ; and moreover, tnat the two seas flow as freely
into each other as Lancaster Sound does into the Polar
S(*a." This assumption has since been shown to be
incorrect. Capt. Ross asserts there is a difference in
the l^vel of these two seas.

1 1

168

PROOllESS OF AJiCflO DISOOVKRY.

IV, \

1 111 ly hero fitl} take a review of Captain R ^s's ser-
vice^, lie eiiteied the navy in 1790, served fiflcon yonr^
as a iiiidsliipnian, seven as a lieutenant, and seven as a
euniniunder, and was posted on the 7th of December,
1818, and appointed to the command of the lirst arctic
i^xj)cdition ot this century. On his return he rec(!ived
many marks of faror from continental 80verei<;nH, wuij
knialited and made a Companion of the Butn on \l\o
24tii of December, 1834 ; made a Commander of tho
Swt)rd of Sweden, a Knight of the Second Class of St
fVnne of Prussia (in diamonds,) Second Class of the
Le»]jion of Honor, and of the Red Eui^le of Prussia, and
of Leopold of Belgium. Received tlie royal premiun
from the Geographical Society of London, in 1833, fo
his discoveries in the arctic regions ; also gold medal
from the Geographical Society of Paris, and the RoyrJ
Societies of Sweden, Austria, and Denmark. The frc^-
dom of the cities of London, Liverpool, and P)risto^ :
six gold snuff-boxes from Russia, iJolland, Demnai-).'
Austria, London and Baden ; a sword valued at lOi'
guineas from the Patriotic Fund, for his sufferings, hav
ing been wounded thirteen times in three uilfcreut
actions during the war ; and one of the value of 200/.
from the King of Sweden, for service in the Baltic and
the AVliite Sea. On the 8th of March, 1830, he was
appointed to the lucrative post of British consul ai
Stockholm, which he held for six years.

m ■ ■

Captain Back's Land Journey, 1833-35.

Four years having elapsed without any tidings being
received of Capt. Ross and his crew, it began to 1)6
generally feared in England that they had been added
to the number of former sufferers, in the prosecution of
their arduous undertaking.

Dr. Richardson, who had himself undergone sucli
n-ightt\il I erils in the arctic regions with Franklin, waa
the fire^ to call ]>ublic attention to the subject, in a letter
to thv* Ge<'gr!iphical Society, in which he suggested a
project *br relieving them, if stiP alive and to be found :

CAPTAIN BACK 8 LAND JOUKNET.

ICO

Mlt

a'l

1)e
ed
of

id.
raa
tor
a

And tit the snmo time volunteered bis services to tho
Colonial Secretary of the day, to conduct an explorin^j
party.

Althoueh the expedition of Oapt. Koss was not under-
taken under the auspices of ffoverniuent, it became a
national concern to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and
to make some effort for the relief of the party, whoso
home at that time miglit be the boisterous sea, or whoso
slicltor the snow hut or the floating iceberg. Dr. Rich-
ardson proposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a
northwest direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was
to commence his search in an easterly direction. Pass-
ing to the north, along the eastern side of this gulf, ho
wouUl arrive at Point Turnagain, the eastern point of
his own former discovery. Having accomplished this,
he would continue his search toward the eastward until
he reached Melville Island, thus perfecting geographical
discovery in that quarter, and a continued coast line
miglit be laid down from the Fury and Hecla Strait to
Beechey Point, leaving only the small space between
Franklin's discovery and that of the Blossom unexplored.
The proposal was mvorably received ; but owinw to the
political state of the country at the time, the oner was
not accepted.

A meeting was held in November, 1832, at the rooms
of the Horticultural Society, in Regent street, to obtain
funds, and arrange for fitting out a private relief expe-
dition, as the Admiralty ana Government were unablo
to do this officially, in conse(|aence of Captain Ross's
expedition not being a public one. Sir George Cock-
burn took the chair, and lustly observed that those offi-
cers who devoted their time to the service of science,
and braved in its pursuit the .^angers of unknown and
ungenial climates, demanded he sympathy and assist-
ance of all. Great Britain h*d taken the lead in geo-
graphical discpvery, and theri. was not one in this coun-
try who did not' feel pride ax A honor in the fame she
had attained by the expedition of Parry and Franklin ;
hut if we wished to create future Parrys and Franklins,
if we wished to encourage Br»rsh enterprise and com

iro

rR00Ki':ss (W arctic discovkry.

Fill'''
iW

fI'M'

i '■

p:'

{'^- * ' ' '

1;; M'
1 i|-

aee, we must prove that the officer who is out of sight
ot his countrymen is not forgotten ; that there ia con
sideration for his sufferings, and appreciation of his
spirit. This reflection will cheer him in the hour ot*
trial, and will permit him, when surrounded by dangers
and privations, to indulge in hope, the greatest blessing
of man. Captain George Back, R. N"., who was in
Italy when the subject was iirst mooted, hastened to
England, and offered to lead the party, and his services
were accepted. A subscription was entered into, to
defray the necessary expenses, and upward of 6000?.
was raised ; of this sura, at the recommendation of Lord
Goderich, the then Secretary of State, the Treasury con-
tributed 2000Z.

After an interview with the king at Brighton, to which
be was specially summoned, Captain Back made prep*
rations for his journey, and laid down his plan of opera-
tions. In order to facilitate his views, and give him
great'jir autliority over his men, special instructions and
authority were issued by the Colonial Office, and the
Hudson's Bay Company granted him a commission in
their service, and placed every assistance at his disposal
throughout their territory in North America.

Every thing bein^ definitely arranged, Capt. Back,
accompanied by Dr. Kichard King as surgeon and natu-
ralist, with three men who had been on tlie expedition
with Franklin, left Liverpcol on the 17th of February,
1833, in one of the New York packet ships, and arrived
in America after a stormy passage of thirty-five days.
lie proceeded on to Montreal, where he had great diffi-
culty in preventing two of the men from leaving him,
as tneir hearts began to fail them at the prospect of
the severe journey with its attendant difficulties, which
they had to encounter.

Four volunteers from the Royal Artillery corps here
joined him, and some voyageurs having been engaged,
the party left, in two canoes, on the 25th of April. Two
of his party deserted from him in the Ottawa river.

On the 28th of June, having obtained his comple-
ment of men, he may be said to have commenced hii

■ i: .4a &ili- '' -' i ilM " iiW

CAPTAIN back's LAND JOURNEY.

171

lary,
lived
laj^s.
Idiffi-
I him,
it of
rhich

here
iffed,
Two

iple-
hit

joarney. They suffered dreadfully from myriads (>(
BMTid-flies and musquitoes, being so disfigured by their
{iltackB that their features could scarcely be recognized.
Horse-flies, ani)ropriately styled "bull-dogs," were an-
other dreadful post, which pertinaciously gorged them
selves, like the leech, until tliey seemed ready to burst.

" It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against
these puny bloodsuckers ; though you crush thousands
of them, tens of thousands arise to avenge the death of
their companions, and you very soon discover that the
conflict which you are waging is one in which you are
sure to be defeated. So great at last are the pains and
tktigue in buffeting away this attacking force, that in
(l(!sptiir you throw yourself, half suffocated, in a blanket,
with your face upon the ground, and snatch a few min-
utes of sleepless rest." Capt. Back adds that the vig-
orous and un intermitting assaults of these tormenting
posts conveyed the moral lesson of man's helplessness,
since, with all our boasted strength, we are unable to
repel these feeble atoms of creation. " How," he says,
" can I possibly give an idea of the torment we endured
from the sand-flies? As we divided into the confined
and suffocating chasms, or waded through the close
swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air ;
to see or to speak was equally difficult, for they i ushed
at every undefended part, and fixed their poisonous
fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as
if leeches had been applied, and there was a burning
and irritating pain, followed by immediate inflamma-
tion, and producing giddiness, which almost drove us
mad, and caused us to moan with pain and agony.

At the Pine portage. Captain Back engaged the
services of A. R. McLeod, in the employ of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, and who had been fixed upon by
Governor Simpson, to aid the expedition. He was
accompanied by his wife, three children, and a ser-
vant; and had just returned from the Mackenzie River,
with a large cargo of furs. The whole family were at-
tached to the party, ana after some detentions of a
general and unimportant character tb.ey arrived at

172

PROGRESS OF AROnO DISOOVERT.

U; tj

[.; risvr

f "

I cm !.

I ■'!>

if i-

il 4 ^

Fort Chipewyan on the 20th of July. Fort Resoit^
tion, on Ureat Slave Lake, was reached ou the 8th oi
August.

The odd assemblage of goods and voyageurs in their
encampment are thus graphically described by the
traveler, as he glanced around him.

" At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil-cloth, con-
taining some three blankets, called a bed; near it a
piece of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long
black hairs, which no art, alas, can prevent from insin-
uating themselves between the teeth, as you laboriously
masticate the tough, hard flesh; then a tolerably cleiin
napkin, spread by way of table-cloth, on a red ]»iece of
canvas, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuits, and a
salt-cellar ; near this a tin plate, close by a square kind
of box or safe of the same material, rich with a pule,
greasy hair, the produce of the colony at Ked River ;
and the last, the far-renowned pemmicarij unqutsstion-
ably the best food of the country for expeditions such
as ours. Behind me were two boxes containing astro-
nomical instruments, and a sextant lying on the ground,
while the different corners of the tent were occupied
by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian shot-poucli,
bags, basins, ana an unhappy-looking japanned pot,
whose melancholy bumps and hollows seemed to re-
proach me for many a bruise endured upon the rocks
and portages between Montreal and Lake Winnipeck.
Nor were my crew less motley than the furniture of
the tent. It consisted of an Englishman, a man from
Stornaway, tt^ Canadians, two Metifs or half-breeds,
and three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have pro-
duced a worse confusion of unharnionious sounds than
was the conversation they kept up."

Having obtained at Fort Resolution all possible in-
formation, from the Indians and others, relative to the
course of the northern rivers of which he was in search,
he divided his crew into two parties, five of whom were
left as an escort for Mr. McLeod, and four were to ac-
company himself in search of the Great Fish River.
«ince appropriately ramed after Back himself.

*^b^mmmmm

i''r

CAPTAIN IJACK S LAND JOURNEY.

173

On the 10th of August they began the ascent of the
Hoar Frost Kiver, whose course was a series of tlie
most fearful cascades and rapids. The woods heio
wore so thick as to render them almost impervious
consisting chiefly of stuiited firs, which occasioned in
finite trouble to the l)arty to force their way thi'ough
added to wjiich, they had to clamber over fallen trees
through rivulets, and over bogs and swami)8, until thu
difiiculties appeared so appalling, as almost to dis-
hearten the party from prosecuting their journey. Tho
heart of Ca])tain Back was, however, of too stern a cast
to be dispirited by difficulties, at which less i)ersever
''ng explorers would have turned away discomfited,
and cheering on his men, like a bold and gallant leader,
the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at length
in an open Sfuicc, where they rested for awhile to recruit
their exhausted strength. The place was, indeed, one
of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag
to the height of 2000 feet fiom the base, and the course
of the river here, in a state of contraction, was marked
by an uninterrupted line of foam.

However great the beauty of the scenery mav be,
and however resolute may be the will, severe toil will
at length relax the spirits, and bring a kind of despon-
dency upon a heai't naturally bold and undaunted. This
was found particularly the case now with the interpre-
ter, who became a dead weight upon the party. Rapid
now succeeded rapid ; scarcely had they surmounted
one fall than another presented itself, rising like an am-
phitheater before them to the height of fifty feet. They
however, gained at length the ascent of this turbulen
and imfriendly river, the romantic beauty and wild
scenery of which were strikingly grand, and after pass
ing successively a series of portages, rapids, falls, lake^
and rivers, on the 27th Back observed from the summit
of a high hill a very large lake full of deep bays and
islands, and which has been named Aylmer Lake, after
the Governor-General of Canada at that time. The
boat was sent out with three men to search for the lake,
or outlet of the river, which thej discovered on the seo-

" (■

jr4

PR00UE8S OF ARCriO DISCOVERT.

Olid day, and Captain Back himself, during their ab-
sence, also accidentally discovered its source in the
Sand llill Lake, not far from his encampment. Not
prouder was Bruce when he stood on tue green sod
which covers the source of the Nile, than was Captain
Back when he found tlpvt he was standing at the source
of a river, the existence of which was known, but the
course of which was a jiroblem, no traveler had yet ven
tured to solve. Yielding to that pleasurable emotion
which discoverers, in theiirst bound of their transport,
may be pardoned for indulging. Back tells us he tlirow
himself down on the bank and drank a hearty draught
of the limpid water.

"For this occasion," he adds, "I had re8er\^od a lit-
tle grog, and need hardly say with what cheerfulness
it was shared among the orew, whose welcome tidings
had verified the notion ol Ji\ Tlichardson and myself,
and thus placed beyond doubt the existence ot the
Thlew-ce-choh, or Great Fisli River.

On the 30th of August, they began to move toward
the river, but on reaching Musk-ox Lake, it was found
impossible to stand the force of the rapids in their fi'ail
canoe, and as winter was approaching, their return to
the rendezvous on Slave LaKe was determined on.

At Clinton Colden Lake, some Indians visited thein
fi-om the Chief Akaitclio, who, it will be remembered,
was the guide of Sir John Franklin. Two of these Li-
dians remembered Captain Back, one having accom-
panied him to the Coppermine River, on Franklin's
nrst expedition.

At the Cat or Artillery Lake, they had to abandon
their canoe, and perform the rest of the journey on f>ot
over precipitous rocks, through fi'ightful gorges and ra-
vines, heaped with masses of granite, and along narrow
ledges, where a false step would have l)een fatal.

At Fort Reliance, the party found Mr. McLeod had,
during their absence, erected the fi-ame-work of a com-
forl-able residence for them, and all hands set to wort
to complete it. After many obstacles and difficulties,
it was nnished.

CAPTAIN back's LAND JOURNBT.

iTi

Dr. Kin^ joined them on the 16th of September, with
two laden nuteaux.

On the 6th of November, they exchanged their cold
tents for the new house, which was fifty feet long by
thirty broad, and contained four rooms, besides a spa-
cious hall in the center, for the reception and accom-
modation of the Indians, to wlitch a sort of rude kitchen
was attached.

As the winter advanced, bands of starving Indians
continued to arrive, in the hope of obtaining some re-
lief, as little or nothing was to be procured by hunting.
They would stand around while the men were taking
their meals, watching every mouthful with the most
longing, imploring look, but yet never uttered a com-
plaint.

At other times they would, seated' round the fire, oc-
cupy themselves in roasting and devouring small bits
of their reindeer garments, which, even when entire,
afforded them a very insufficient protection against a
temperature of 102° below freezing point.

Tne sufferings of the poor Indians at this period are
described as frightful. " Famine with her gaunt and
bony arm," says Back, " pursued them at every turn,
withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless on
the cold bosom of the snow." It was impossible to
afford relief out of their scanty store to all, but even
small portions of the mouldy pemmican intended for
the dogs, unpalatable as it was, was gladly received,
and saved many fi*om perishing. " Often," adds Back,
" did I share my own plate with the children whose
helpless state and piteous cries were peculiarly distress-
ing ; compassion for the full-grovm may, or may not,
be felt, but that heart must be cased in steel which is
insensible to the cry of a child for food."

At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appear-
ance with an opportune supply of a little meat, which
in some measure enabled Captain Back to relieve the
sufferers around him, many of whom, to his great de-
light, went away with Akaitcho. The stock of meat
was soon exhausted, and they had to open their pem-

176

rUOOrliiuSd OF AitJi'IC DibOOVikUT*

hf'

fi >r'' I

i Wf ■ •

mican. The officers contented tliomselvos with the
dhort Bupply of hiilf a pound a day, bnt the laboring
men could not do with lesH than a pound and threo-

^uarters. Tlio cold now set in with an intensity which
laptain Back had never before experienced, — the thcr-
nioracter, on the 17th of January, oeing 70° below zero.
■* Such indeed, (he says,) was the abstraction of heat,
that with eight large logs of dry wood on the fire, I
could not get the tlierniometor higiier than 12° bcloW
zero. Ink and paint froze. Tlio sextant cases and
boxes of seasoned wood, principally lir, all split. Tlie
fikiu of the hands became dry, cracked and opened
into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were
obliged to anoint wihli grease. On one occasion, afler
wasning my face within three feet of the tire, my hair
was actually clotted with ice before I had time to dry it."

The hunters suftered severely from the intensity of
.he cold, and compared the sensation of handling their
guns to that of touching red-hot iron, and so excessive
was the pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of
leather round the triggers to keep their ffugers from
coming into contact with the steel.

The suiferings which the party now endured were
great, and had it not been for the exemplary conduct
of Akaitcbo in procuring them game, it is tc be doubted
whether any would have survived to tell the misery
they had endured. The sentiments of this worthy sav
age were nobly expressed — " The great chief trusts in
us, and it is better that ten Indians perish, than that
one white man should perish through our negligence
and breach of faith."

On the 14th of February, Mr. McLeod and his family
removed to a place half way between the fort and the
Indians, in order to facilitate their own support, and
assist in procuring food by hunting. His situation,
however, became soon one of the greatest embarrass-
ment, he and his family being surrounded by difficul-
ties, privations, and deaths. Six of the natives ueai
him sank under the horrors of starvation, and Akaitchr
dnd his liuntere were twelve days' march distHUt.

OAITAIN BACKS LAND JODIWiET.

ITT

Toward tho end of April, Oapt. Back began to raake
arrangements for constructing boats for prosecuting tlio
exi)eaition once more, and wliile so employed, on tho
25th a messenger arrived with the gratifying intelli-
gence, that Capt. Ross had arrived safely m England,
confirmation of which, was afforded in extracts IVom
tho Times and Herald^ and letters from tho long lont
adventurers themselves. Their feelings at these glad
tidings are thus described: — "In the fullness of our
hearts we assembled together, and humbly offered up
our thanks to that merciful Providence, who in tuT
beautiful language of scripture hath said, ' Mine own
will I bring again, as I did sometime from the deeps
^f the sea.' Tlie thought of so wonderful a preserva-
tion overpowered for a time the common occurrences
of life. We had just sat down to breakfast ; but our
appetite was gone, and the day was passed in a fever-
\m state of excitenoient. Seldom, indeed, did my friend
Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful
occasion economy was forgotton ; a treat was given to
the men, and for ourselves the social sympathies were
quickened by a generous bowl of puDch." Capt. Back's
former interpreter, Augustus, hearing tha«, he was in
the country, set out on foot from Hudson's Bay to join
him, but getting separated from his two companions,
the gallant little felli\,' was either exhausted by suffer^
ing and privations, or, caught in the midst of an oper
traverse, in one of those terrible snow storms which
may be f aid to blow almost through the frame, he had
sunk to lise no more, his bleachea remains being dis*
covered not far from the Riviere a Jean. " Such,"
says Capt. Back, " was the miserable end of poor Au-
gustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature,
who had won the regard, not of myself only, but I
may add, of Sir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also,
by qualities which, wherever vound, in the lowest as in
the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and
charm of humanity."

On the 7th of June, all the preparations being com
I ^eted, McLeod having been previously sent oti to hunt|

178

PBOQKI'ISS OF ARCriO DISCOVEKT.

f-\

1 1 '
i

and deposit casks of meat at various stages, Back set
out with Mr. King, accompanied by four voyagers and
an Indian guide. The stores not required were buried,
and the doors and windows of the house blocked up.

At Artillery Lake, Back picked up the reraaiudei
of his party, with the carpenters who had been em
[)ioyed ]>reparing boats. The lightest and best waa
chosen and placed on runners plated with iron, and in
this manner she was drawn over the ice by two men and
six fine dogs. The eastern shore of the lake was fol-
lowed, as it was found less rocky and precipitous than
the opposite one. The march was prosecuted by night,
fhe air being more fresh and pleasant, and tlie party
fook rest in the day. The gh'^re of the ice, the ditli-
r-ulty encountered in gettirqr the boat along, the ice be-
ing so bad that the spikes of the runners cut tln'ough
instead of slidinff over it, and the Hiick snow which
fell in June, greatly increased the labor of getting along.
T.he cold, raw "^ 'ind pierced through them in spite of
cloaks and blankets. After being caulked, the boat
was launched on the 14th of June, the lake being suf-
ficiently unobstructed to admit of h^^r being towed
along shore. The weather now became exceedingly
unpleasant — hail, snow, and rain, pelted them one aftei
the other for some time without respite, and then onlv
yielded to squalls that overturned the boat. Witb
alternate spells and baitings to res*", they however,
gradually advanced on the traverse, and were really
making considerable progress when pelting showers of
sleet and drift so dimmed and confused the sight, dark
ejiing the atmosphere, and limiting their view to only
a few paces before them, as to render it an extremely
perplexing task to keep their course.

On the 23d of June, they fortunately fell in with a
rae/te made for them by their avant-coiirier^ Mr. Mc-
Leod, in which was a seasonable supply of deer and
musk-ox flesh, the latter, however, so impregnated with
tl'.e odor from r/hich it takes its name, that the men de-
clared they would rather starve three days than swal
low a u\outhful of it. To remove this unfiivorable Im

OAt^'ATN BACKS LAND JOURNET.

179

pression, Capt. JJack ordered the daily rations to bo
fierved from it for his own mess as well as tlieirs, tak-
ing occasion at the same time, to impress ;>n their minds
the injurious consequences of voluntary abstinence,
and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to
such food as the country might supply. Soon after an
other cache was met with, thus maki:ig elevea animals
in all, that had been thus obtained and secured for
them by the kind care of Mr. McLeod.

On the 2Tth, they roached Sandy Hill Bay, where
they found Mr. McLeod encamped. On the 28th, the
boat being too frail to be dragged over the portage,
about a quarter of a mile in length, was carried bodily
by the crew, and launched safely in the Thlew-ee-choh
or Fish River. After crossing the portage beyond
Musk-ox Rapid, about four miles in length, and having
all his party together, Captain Back took a 8ur\'ey of
his provisions for the three months of operations, which
he lound to consist of two boxes of maccaroni, a case
of cocoa, twenty-seven bags of pemmican oi about 80
lbs. each, and a keg with two gallons of rum. This he
considered an adequate supply if all turned out sound
and good. The difficulty, however, of transporting a
weight of 5000 lbs, over ice and rocks, by a circuitous
route of full 200 miles, may be easily conceived, not to
mention the pain onclured in w';lkinj^ on some parts
where the ice formed muiuiiciable spikes that pierced
like needles, and in other plaqjes where it was so blaet
nud decayed, that it threatened at every step to euj^ulf
the adventurous traveler. These and similar difhcul
ties could only be overcome by tlie most steady perse
verance, ana the most determined resolution.

Among the group of dark figures huddled togethei
in the Indian encampment around them, Ca})t. Back
found his old acquaintance, the Indian beauty of w1k)i>i
mention is made in Sir Jolin Franklin's narrative un-
der the name of Green Stockings. Although sui--
rounded with a family, with one urchin in her cloak
clinging to her back, and several other maternal ac-
jompaniments, Capt. Back immediately recognized

A %\

t8C

rUOOKKlSft OF AU(ri"t(J DISCKJVICUT.

I.:

luM, juul called her by li«r nuine, at which who l!mi2;ho<],
;ui(l siii<l she \V!is ;ui uhl woman now, aud h»jigt'(l that
hlic nnjiiit bo rolievod bv the " nicdicino nuin " lor slio
was very unich out of health. Jlowover, notwilhstand-
in<r all this, hIio was still tho beauty of her tribe, and
with that eonseit>iisness which belongs to all belles, sav
!iL!;e or oolite, she seemed by no moans disj)leased when
J Jack sketeluMl her |)ortrait.

Air. MeLeod was now sent back, takin«r with him ten
perst>ns antl fourteen dogs. His instructions were to
j)roeeed to Fort Resolution tor the stores ex pectiMl to be
sent there by the Hudson's l»ay (\)ni|)any, to build a
house in some good locality, tor a permanent tishini!'
station, aiul to be again on the banks of tho Fish KiviM
by the uiitldle of b>e}>tend)er, to afford Back and his
l><nty any assistance or relief they might re(juire.

The old Indian chief Akaitcho, hearing from tho in-
terpreter that Capt. Back was in. his immediate neigh-
borhood, said, " I have known the chief a long time,
and 1 am atraid 1 shall never see him again ; 1 will t^o
to him." On his arrival ho cautioned ]^,u'k against tlio
dangers of a river which ho distinctly told him the
present race of Indians know nothin«' of. He also
warned him against the treachery of the Esquiruiux,
which he said was always nnisked under the gidso of
iVienilship, observing they W(»uld attack hini when lu;
least expected it. " I am afraid," continued the good
old chief, " that I sh:dl never see you again ; but should
you esca[)e from the great water, take care you are not
t'uught by the winter, and thrown into a situation liko
that in which you were on your r.iurn from tho Cop-
permine, for you are done, and the Indians cannot
assist you."

The carpenters, with an IroquoiB, not being furtlior
required, were dismissed to join Mr. McLood, and on
the Stli of July they proceeded down the river. The
boat was now launchea and laden with her cargo, which,
together with ten persons, slie stowed well enough for
a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea way. The
weight was calculated at 3300 lbs., exclusive of the
awning, poles, sails. &<:. and the crew.

(1APTAIN UACK fl I.ANP JOlTRNKI.

181

Tliou' pro^roHR to ilio hqh vvuh now one continno^l faic-
^'R8ion of (liUimM-oiiH and fornn(!)il)l('. t'jillH, rnpidH, jind
catunictH, wliic.li lV«M|U(!ntIv nuui«i l>a('l< liol<l lim brfutJj,
#X|)i'.(',tin«i; to Hoo the boat (laHluHl to nliivrirH ,'iij|;uiriKt i nirin
protrndin;^ rockn a?nidnt tho foam and fmv at tlic foot
of a rapid. Tlio ordy wonder Ih Iiow in tlicir finil leaky
l)oat tlioy ever nliot on« of tlic^, rapidtt. I*!i]>id alter
rapid, and fall after fall, wore j)aHK(Ml, cacli accdmpa-
nied with more or Iorr dan<^er ; and in one iriKtajiee flie
l)oat was only mived by all liandn jnrnpin/jj into ilie
IneakorH, and keepii.g her Htern Uj) the stream, nntil
she was cleared from a rock that had hroui^ht her up.

They had hardly time to ^et into their plaecH 5i//ain,
when they were carried with consirh^rahle velocily
pant a river which joined from the; wciHtward. After
paflHing no Icrs tlian live rapidn within the diKtanei! of
three mileH, they (;ame to one long and apjiahing orx*,
fhll of rockH and lar<re boulders ; the Hiden htiiniried in
by a wall of ice, ancltho current flying with the veloc-
ity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened of
her carajo, and Oapt. Hack plac(!d hiniHt^lf on a high
roek, with an anxious desire to see Ikt run the; ra])id.
He had every hope which confidcinee in the judgment
and dexterity of liis princi[)al men could inspire, 4>ut it
was impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal
to the expedition. Away they went with the speed cf
an arrow, and in a moment the foam and rocks hid
them from view. Back at last heard what sounded in
his ear like a wild shriek, and he saw Dr. King, who
was a hundred yards before him, make a sign with hii^
gun, and then run forward. Back followed with an
agitation which may be easily conceived, when to bis
inexpressible joy he found tliat the shriek was the tn
amphant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in
a email bay below. For nearly one hundred miles of
the distance they were impeded by these frightful whirl
pools, and strong and heavy rapids.

On opening one of their bags of pemmican, the in
gonui'ty of the Indians at pilfering was discovered, sue
cossive layers of mixed sand, stoncB, and green mea

>' ''.8

182

PROGKE88 OF ARCTIO DISCOVKRT.

Ii;fi;

V'-'

% !!.

lit

having been artfully and cleverly substituted for the
dry meat. Fearful that they might be carrying heaps
of stone instead of provision, Back had to examine
carefully the remainder, which were all found soui\d
and well-tasted. He began to fear, from the inclination
of the river at one time toward the eouth, that it would
be found to discharge itself in Ch(3steriiold Inlet, in
Hudson's Bay, but subsequently, to his great joy, it
took a direct course toward the north, and iiis hopes of
reaching the Polar Sea were revived. Tlie river now
led into several large lakes, some studded with islands,
which were named successively after Sir 11. Felly, and
Mr. Garry, of the Hudson's Bay Company ; two others
were named Lake Macdougall and Lake Franklin.

On the 28th of July, they fell in with a tnbe of about
thirty-five very friendly Esquimaux, who aided them
in transporting their boat over the last long and steep
portage, to which his men were utterly unequal, and
Back justly remarks, to their kind assistance he is
mainly indebted for getting to the sea at all.
I It was late when they got away, and while threading
their course between some sand-banks with a sti'ong
current, they first caught sight of a majestic headland
in tjie extreme distance to the north, which had a
coast-like appearance. This important promontory,
Back subsequently named after our gracious Queen^
then Princess Victoria.

"This, then," observes Back, " may be considered aa
the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which after a violent
and tortuous course of 530 geo^ 'aphical miles, running
through an iron-ribbed country, without a single tree
on the whole line of its bankp,, expanding into five
large lakes, with cloar horizon, most embarrassing to
the navigf tor, and broken into falls, cascades, and rap-
ids, to the number of eighty-tlu-eo in the whole, pours
its water into the Polar Sea, in lat. 67° 11' N., and long
94° 30' W., that is to say> about thirty-seven miles
more south than the Coppermine River, and nineteer
miles more south than that of Bacik's R-iver, (of Frank
lin,) at the lower extremity of Bathurst's Inlet"

i3ifi»«^---

CArTAIN back's LAND JOUiiNEY.

183

i^'or several days Back was able to make but slow
progi'css along the eastern shore, in consequence of the
8!»licl body of dril't-ice. A barren, rocky elevation of
SOU feet high, was named Cape Beaufort, after the
present hydrographer to the Admiralty. A blufl* point
on tlio eastern side of the estuary, which he considered
to be the northern extreme, he named Cape Hay.
Dean and Simpson, however, in 1839, traced the shore
much beyond this. The difficulties met with here, be-
^an to dispirit the men. For a week or ten days they
ad a continuation of wet, chilly, foggy weather, and
^he only vegetation, fern and moss, was so wet that it
would not burn ; being thus without fuel, during this
time they had but one hot meal. Almost without
water^ without any means of warmth, or any kind of
warm or comforting food, sinking knee-deep, as they
proceeded on land, in the soft slush and snow, no won-
kier that some of the best men, benumbed in their limbs
and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect
before them, broke out for a moment, in low murmur-
iijgs, that theirs was a hard and painful duty.

Captain Back found it utterly impossible to proceed,
as he had intended, to the Point Turnagain of Franklin,
and after vainly essaying a land expedition by three of
the best walkers, and these having returned, after mak-
ing but fifteen miles' Vvi*y, in consequence of the heavy
rains and the swampy nature of the ground, he cam?
to the resolution of returning. Reflecting, he says, on
the long and dangerous stream they had to ascend
combining all the bad features of the worst rivers i!3
the country, the hazard of the falls and the rapids, an.I
the slei:der hope which remained of their attaining
even a single mile further, he felt he had no choi'-e.
Assembling, therefore, the men around him, and ur
fulling the British flag, which was saluted with thret
cheers, he announced to them this determination. The
hititude of this place was 68° 13' 57" N., and longitude
94-° 58 1" W. Tlie extreme point seen to the north-
ward on the western side of the estuary, in latitude 08°
4.6' N., longitude 96 20' W., Back named Cape Kieh

184

PROOItKSa OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT,

ardson. The spirits of many of the men, whose hohltb
bud suffered m'eutly for want of warm and nouriyliing
r'oud, now bnglitened, and they set to work with ahic-
rity to prepare for their return journey. The boat Ijo-
n_2; dragged across, was brought to tlio ])hice of their
'ornier Gtation, after which the crew went back four
miles for tlieir i)aggage. The whole was safely con-
veyed over before the evening, when the water- casks
were broken up to make a fire to warm a kettle of
cocoa, the second hot meal they had had for nine days.

On the 15th of Au^L'Ust, they managed to make their
way about twenty mdes, on tlieir return to the south-
wai-d, through a Ijreach in the ice, till they came to
open water. The difHculties of the river were doul)led
in the ascent, from having to proceed against the stream.
All the obstacles of rocks, rapids, sand-banks, and long
portages had to be faced. In some days as many as
sixteen or twenty rapids were ascended. They found,
us they proceeded, tliat many of the deposits of pro-
visions, on which they relied, had been discovered and
destroyed by wolves. On the 16th of September, they
met Mr. McLeod and his party, who had been several
days at Sand Hill Bay, waiting for them. On the 24th,
tliey reached the Ah-hel-dessy, where they met with
some Indians. They were ultimately stopped by one
most formitlaUle perj^endicular fall, and as it was found
impossible to convey the boat further over so rugged
and mountainous a country, most of the declivities of
which were coatctl with thin ice, and the whole hidden
by snow, it was here abandoned, and the party pro
ceeded the rest of the journey on foot, each laden with
a ])aek of about 75 lbs. weight.

Lute on the 27th of September, they arrived atthoir
old habitation. Fort Reliance, after being absent near\v
four months, wearied indeed, but "truly grateful for
the manifold mercies they had experienced in the
c'ourse of their long and perilous journey." Arrange-
iMiMits were now made to pass the winter as com fort a-
W.y as theii means would permit, and as there was no
prohabib't^ that there would le sufficient food in tha

OAI'TAIN BACKS LAUD JOUliNEY.

185

notise for the consnmption of the whole i»arty, all ex-
cept six were sent with Mr. McLeod to the fislieries.
The Indians brought them provisions from time to time,
and their friend Akaiteho, with his followers, though
not very successful in hunting, was not wanting in
his contributions. This old cliieftain was, huwever,
no longer the same active and important personage ho
had been in the days when he rendered such good
service to Sir John Franklin. Old age and infirmities
were creeping on him and rendering him peevish and
fickle.

On the 2l8t of March following, having left direc-
tions with Dr. King to proceed, at the proper season,
to the Company's factory at Hudson's ]3ay, to embark
for England in their spring ships, Captain Back set
out on his return through Canada, calling at the Fishe-
ries to bid farewell to his esteemed friencl, Mr. McLeod,
and arriving at the Norway House on the 24th, where
lie settled and arranged the accounts due for stores,
&c., to the Hudson's Bay Company. He proceeded
thence to New York, embarked for England, and ar-
rived at Liverpool on the 8th of September, after an
absence of two years and a half. Back was honored
with an audience of his Majesty, who expressed his ap-
probation of his efforts — first in the cause of human-
ity , and next in that of geographical and scientific re-
search. He has since been knighted ; and in 1835, the
Royal Geographical Society awarded him their gold
medal, (the Royal premium,) for his discovery or the
Great Fish River, and navigating it to the sea on the
arctic coast.

Dr. King, with the remainder of the party, (eight
men,) reached England, in the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's ship, in the following month, October.

Of Captain Back's travels it has been justly observed
that it is impoBHible to rise from the perusal of them
without being struck with astonishment at the extent of
sufferings which the human frame can endure, and at the
simip time the wondrous display of fortitude which wa.s
sxtiibited under circumstances of so appnlling a nature.

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186

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEBT.

as to invest the narrative wi' h the character of a roman-
tic fiction, ratlior than an ui icxaggerated tale of actual
reality, lie, however, suffe ed not despair nor despon-
dency to overcome him, bul gallantly and undauntedly
])ur6ued his course, until he returned to his native land
t) add to the number of those noble spirits vehose names
will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments
to the country which gave them birth.

Captain Baok*b Voyage op the Tbbbob.

In the year 1836, Captain Back, who had only re-
turned the previous autumn, at the recommendation of
the Geographical Society, undertook a voyage in thQ
Terror up Hudson's Strait.

He was to reach Wager River, or Repulse Bay, and
to make an overland journey, to examine the bottom
of Prince Regent's Inlet, sending other parties to the
north and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and
Hecla, and to reach, if possible, Franklin's Point Turn
again.

Leaving England on the 14th of June, he arrived on
the 14th of August at Salisbury Island, and proceeded
up the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got
fi'ozen in, and on the breaking up of the ice bv one ot
those frequent convulsions, the vessel was drifted right
up the Frozen Channel, grinding large heaps that op
posed her progress to powder.

Fi-om December to March she was driven about by
the ftir^ of the storms and ice, all attempts to release
her being utterly powerless. She thus floated till the
loth of July, and for three days was on her beam-ends ;
but on the 14th she suddenly righted. The crazy vessel
with her gaping wounds was scarcely able to transport
the crew across the stormy waters of the Atlantic, but
the return voyage which was rendered absolutely neces-
sary, was fortunately accomplished safely.

I shall now give a concise summary of Captain Sir
George Back's arctic services, so as to present it more
readily to the reader:

i.i

DEASK AND Simpson's discovkrieb.

187

In 1818 ho was Admiralty Mate on board the Trent,
-aider Franklin. In 1819 he again accompanied liiiri
on his first overland journey, and was with hiin in all
tliose perilous sufferings whicli are elsewhere narrated.
lie was also as a Lieutenant with Franklin on his bi;c-
j>nd journey in 1825. Having been in the interval pro
nioted to the rank of Commander, he ])roceeded, in 18o'),
accompanied by Dr. King and a party, through North-
ern America to the Polar Sea, in search ot Ca])tain
John Koss. He was posted on the 30th of September,
1835, and appointed in the following year to the com-
mand of the Terror, for a voyage of discovery in Ilud
son's Bay.

Messrs. Deasb and Simpson's Disooveries.

In 1836 the Hudson's Bay Company resolved upon
undertaking the completion of the survey of the north
ern coast of their territories, forming the shores of
Arctic America, and small portions ot which were left
undetermined between the discoveries of Captains Back
and Franklin.

They commissioned to this task two of their officers,
Mr. Thomas Simpson and Mr. Peter Warren Dease, who
were sent out with a party of twelve men from the com
pany's chief fort, with proper aid and appliances. De-
scending the Mackenzie to the sea, they reached and
surveyed in July, 1837, the remainder of the western
part of the coast left unexamined by Franklin in 1825,
from his Keturn Reef to Cape Barrow, where the Bios
Bom's boats turned back.

Proceeding on from Return Reef two new rivers
were dtscovered, — the Garry and the Coiville ; -the
latter more than a thousand miles in length. Although
it was tlie height of summer, the ground was found
frozen several inches below the surface, the spray fi-oze
on the oars and rigging of their boats, and the ice hiy
smooth and solid in the bays, as in the depth of winter

On the 4th of August, having left the boats and pru
veeded un by land, Mr. Simpson arrived at Elson Bay
12 H*

188

PROG II ESS OF ^ItCTI

CJOVKKf.

which point Lieutenant Elsou had reached in the Blo»
Bom's barge in 1826. .

The party now returned to winter at Fort Confidence,
on Great l3ear Lake, whence they were instructed to
prosecute thoir search to the eastward next season, and
to communicate if possible with Sir George Back's
expedition.

They left their winter quarters on the 6th of June,
1838, and descended Dease's River. They found the
Coppermine River much swollen by floods, and encum-
bered with masses of floating ice. The rapids they had
to pass were very perilous, as may be inferred from the
followinff graphic description: —

" We had to pull for our lives to keep out of the suc-
tion of the precipices, along whose base the breakers
raged and foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly
before noon, we came in sight of Escape Rapid of
Franklin ; and a glance at the overhanging clift' told us
that there was no alternative but to nm down with a
fiill cargo. In an instant," continues Mr. Simpson, "we
were in tb«» vortex ; and before we were aware, my boat
was borne toward an isolated rock, which the boiling
surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was
no longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to
run between it and the lofty eastern cliff: ^he word
was passed, and every breath was hushed. A stream
which dashed down upon us over the brow of the preci
pice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with
the spray that whirled upward from the rapid, forming
a terrific shower-bath. The pass was about eight feet
wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would
have been instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's
consummate skill, the boat shot safely through those
jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next
impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com-
raaes behind. They had profited by the peril we in-
curred, and kept without the treacherous rock in time.''

On the Ist of July they reached the sea, and en-
camped at tl e mouth of tlie river, where they waited
for tue openii g of the ice till the 17th. They doubled

Di£A3K A.ND SLWr.iON 8 DISCOVKRIES.

189

C'dy=i Barrow, one of the nortliern points of Bathiirst'a
[iih <:, on the 29th, but were prevented crossing the inlet
l»y die continuity of the ice, and obliged to uiako a
circuit of nearly 150 miles by Arctic Sound.

Stmie very pure specimens of copper ore were found
on one of the Barry Islands. After doubling Capo
Hinders on the 9th of August, the boats were arrested
bv the ice in a little bay to which the name of Boat
I laven was given, situate about three miles from Frank-
lin's farthest, llere the boats lingered for the best
part ol* a month, in utter hopelessness. Mr. Simpson
uuslied on therefore on the 20tn, with an exploring party
of seven men, provisioned for ten days. On tlie lirst
<luy they passed Point Turnagain, the limit of Frank-
lin's survey in 1821. On the 23d they had reached an
■il(.'vated capo, with land apparently closing all round
'o the jiorthward, so that it was feared they had only
•^K'cn traversing the coast of a huge bay. But the
;)t'iseverance ot the adventurous explorer was fiilly re-
warded.

"^With bitter disappointment," WTites Mr. Simpson,
•* I ascended the height, from whence a vast and splen-
did prospect burst suddenly upon me. The sea, as if
transformwi by enchantment, rolled its fierce waves at
my feet, and beyond the reach of vision to the eastward,
Islands of various shape and size overspread its surface ;
imd the northern land terminated to the eye in a bold
nnd lofty cape, bearing east northeast, thirty or forty-
!ui es distant, while tlie continental coast trended away
southeast. I stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland,
at the eastern outlet of an ice-obstructed strait. On the
extensive land to the northward I bestowed the name
of our most gracious sovereign Queen Victoria. Its
eastern visible extremity I called Cape Pelly, in com-
pliment to the governor of Hudson's Bay Company."

I'av'ing reached the limits which prudence, dictated
ir the lace of the long journey back to the boats, many
ot his men too being lame, Mr. Simpson retraced hif
steps, and the party reached Boat-haven on the 20th of
^\ugust, having traced nearly 140 miles of new coast

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Tlie, boats were cut out of their icy prison, and com
menocd their ro-ascent of the Coppermine on the 3d oi
Septeinher. At its i unction with ttie Kendal River the^
left their boats, and shouldering tlieir packs, traversed
the barren pounds, and arrived at their residence on
tlie lake by tlie 14:th of September.

The following season these persevering explorers com-
menced their third voyage. Thev reaclied the Bloody
Fall on the 22d of June, 1839, and occupied themselves
for a week in carefully examining' Richardson's River,
which was discovered in the previous year, and dio-
charges itself in the head of Back's Inlet. On the 3d
of Julj? they reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky
heights were surprised to observe Coronation Gulf
almost clear of ice, while on their former visit it could
have been crossed on foot.

They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier than
Mr. Simpson reached it on foot the previous year, and
doubled Cape Alexander, the northernmost cape in this
quarter, on the 28th of July, after encountering a vio
lent gale. They coasted the huge bay extending for
about nine degrees eastward from this point, being fa-
vored with clear weather, and protectee! by the various
islands they mot from th6 crushing st'itQ of the ice
drifted from seaward.

On the 10th of August they opened ft strait about
ten miles wide at each extremity, but narrowing to fouff
or five miles in the center. This strait, which divides
the main-land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's
Strait.

On the 13th of August they had passed Richardson's
Point and doubled Point Ogle, the fiirthest point of
Back's journey in 1834.

Bv the 16th they had reached Montreal Island in
Back's Estuary, wnere they found a deposit of pro-
visions which Captain Back had left there that day five
years. Tlie pemmican was unlit for use, but out of
several pounds of chocolate half decayed the men con-
trived to pick sufficient to make a kettleful acceptable
drink in honor of the occasion. There were also a tin

DBASE AND SIMPSONS DISCOVERIES.

191

ease and a few fish-hooks, of which, obsorvcs Mr.
SiniDson, "Mr. Dojise and 1 took possession, as memo-
rialfc of our having breakfasted on the very spot where
the tent of our gallant, though less successful precursor
stood that vci-y day five years before.

By the 20th of August they had reached as far as
Aberdeen Island to the eastward, from which they had
a view of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with
th&t which had been so correctly describea to Parry by
the intelligent Esquimaux female as Akkolee.

From a mountainous ridge about three miles inland
a view of laud in the northeast was obtained supposed
to be one of the southern promontories of Boothia.
High and distant islands stretching from E. to E. N. E.
(probably some in Committee Bay) were seen, and two
considerable ones were noted far out in the ofting
Remembering the length and difliculty of their return
route, the explorers now retraced their steps. On their
return voyage they traced sixty miles of the south coast
of Boothia, where at one time they were not more than
ninety miles from the site of the magnetic jpole, as de-
termined by Captain Sir James C. Ross. On the 25th
of August they erected a high cairn at their fai-thcst
point, near Cape Ilerschel.

About 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria
Land, as far as Cape Parry, were also examined ;
Wellington, Cambridge, and Byron Bays being sur-
veyed and accurately laid down. They then stretched
across Coronation Gulf, and re-entered the Copper-
mine River on the 16th of September.

Abandoning here one of their boats, with the re-
mains of their useless stores and other articles not
required, they ascended the river and reached Fort
Confidence on the 24:th of September, after one of the
longest and most successful boat voyages ever per-
formed on the Polar Sea, having traversed more than
1600 miles of sea.

In 1838, before the intelligence of this last trip
had been received, Mr Simpson was presented by
the Royal Geograph: ?a Society of Loudon with th^

I ' in'

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192

PEOOEESS OF AEOTIO DISCOVEET.

Founder's Gold Medal, for discovering and tracing iu
1837 and 1838 about 300 miles of t>^<i arctic shores ;
but the voyage which I have just recorded has added
greatly to the laurels which he and his bold compan-
ions have achieved.

Db. John Has's LAin> Exfeoition, 1846-47.

Althouoh a little out of its chronological order^I
give Dr. Rae's exploring trip before I proceed to no-
tice Franklin's last voyage, and the different relief
expeditions that have been sent out during the past
two years.

In 1846 the Hudson's Company dispatched an ex
pedition of thirteen persons, under the command of
Dr. John Rae, for the purpose of surveying the unex-
plored portion of the arctic coast at the northeastern
angle oi the American continent between Dease and
Simpson's farthest, and the Strait of the Fury and
Hecla.

The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's
Bay, on the 5th of July, 1846, and returned in safety
to York Factory on the 6th September in the follow-
ing year, after having, by traveling over ice and snow
in the spring, traced the coast all the way from the
Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross to within eight
or i;en miles of the Fury and Hecla Strait, thus prov-
ing that eminent navigator to have been correct in
stating Boothia to bo a peninsula.

On the 15th of July the boats first fell in with the
ic(5, about ten miles north of Cape Fullerton, and it
was so heavy and closely packed that they were
obliged to take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet
that opportunely presented itself, where they were
closed up two days.

On the 22d the party reached the most southerly
opening of Wager fever or Bay, but were detained
the whole day by the immense quantities of heavy ice
driving in and out with the flood and ebb of the tide,
which ran at the rate of eight miles an hour, forcing up

DR. JOHN RAe's land EXPEDITION.

198

^oe ice and grinding it against the rocks with a noise
like thunder. On the night of the 24th the boats
anchored at the head of the Repulse Bay. The follow-
ing day they anchored in Gibson's Cove, on the banks
of which they met with a small party of Esquimaux ;
several of the women wore bsads round their wrists,
which they had obtained from Captain Parry's ship
when at Igloolik and Winter Island. But they had
neither heard nor seen anything of Sir John Franklin.

Learning from a chart drawn by one of the natives,
that the isthmus of Melville peninsula was only about
forty miles across, and that oi this, owing to a number
of large lakes, but five miles of land would have to be
passed over. Dr. Rae determined to make his way
over this neck in preference to proceeding by Fox's
Channel through the Fury and II eel a Strait.

One boat was therefore laid up with her cargo in
security, and with the other the party set out, assisted
by three Esquimaux. After traversing several large
lakes, and crossing over six " portages," on the 2d of
A^uguBt they got into the salt water, in Committee
Bay, but being able to make but little progress to the
northwest, in consequence of heavy galea and closely
packed ice, he returned to his starting point, and made
preparations for wintering, it being found impossible
to proceed with the survey at that time. The othei
boat was brought across the isthmus, and all hands
were set to work in making preparations for a long
and cold winter.

As no wood was to be had, stones were collected to
build a house, which was finished by the 2d of Sep-
tember. Its dimensions were twenty feet by fourteen,
and about eight feet high. The roof was formed of
oil-cloths and morse-skm coverings, the masts and
oars of the boats serving as rafters, while the door
was made of parchment snins stretched over a wooden
frame.

The deer had already commenced migrating south-
ward, but whenever he had leisure. Dr. Rae shoul-
dered biB rifle, and had frequently good success, shoot

t Ml r

194

PBOaiiESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERT.

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log on oue day Beven doer within two miles of then
encampment.

On the 16th of October, the thermometer fell to
zero, and the greater part of the reindeer had passed ;
but the party had by this time shot 130, and during
the remainder of October, and in November, thirty-
two more were killed, so that with 200 partridges and
a few salmon, their snow-built larder was protty well
stocked.

Sufficient fuel had been collected to last, with econ-
omy, for cooking, until the spring ; and a couple of
seals which had been shot produced oil enough foi
their lamps. By nets set in the lakes under the ice, a
few salmon were also caught.

After passing a very stormy winter, with the tem-
perature occasionally 47° below freezing point, and
often an allowance of but one meal a day, toward the
end of February preparations for resuming their sur-
veys in the spring were made. Sleds, similar to those
used by the natives, were constructed. In the begin-
ning 01 March the reindeer began to migrate north
ward, but were very shy. One was shot on the 11th.
Dr. Rae set out on the 5th of April, in company
with three men and two Esquimaux as interpreters,
their provisions and bedding being drawn on sleds by
four dogs. Nothing worthy of notice occurs in this
exploratory trip, till on the 18th Rae came in sight of
Lord Mayor's Bay, and the group of islands with which
it is studded. The isthmus which connects the land
to the northward with Boothia, he found to be only about
a mile broad. On their return the party fortunately fell
in with four Esquimaux, from whom they obtained a
quantity of seal's blubber for fuel and dog's food, and
some of the flesh and blood for their own use, enough
to maintain them for six days on half allowance.

All the party were more or less affected with snow
blindness, but arrived at their winter quarters in Ee-
pulse Bay on the 5th of May, all safe and well, but as
black as negroes, from the combined effects of frost*
bites and oil smoke.

DR. JOHN RAK 8 LAND EXPEDITION.

19S

On the •evening of the 13th May, Dr. Rae again
started with a chosen party of four men, to trace the
west shore of Melville peninsula. Each of the men
carried about 70 lbs. weight.

Being unable to obtain a drop of water of nature's
thawing, and fuel being rather a scarce article, they
Were obliged to take small kettles of snow under the
blankets with them, to thaw by the heat of the body.

Having reached to about 69° 42' N. lat., and 85° 8'
long., and- their provisions being nearly exhausted,
they were obliged, much to their disappointment, to
turn back, when only within a few miles of the Hecla
and Fury Strait. Early on the morning of the 30th
of May, the narty arrived at their snow hut on Cape
Thomas Simp: m. The men they had left there were
well, but very bin, as they had neither caught nor
shot any thing eatable, except two marmots, and they
were preparing to cook a piece of parchment skin for
their supper.

" Our journey," says Dr. Rae, " hitherto had beet
the most fatiguing I had ever experienced ; the severe
exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had reduced
the whole party very much. However, we marched
merrily on, tightening our belts — mine came in six
inches — the men vowing that when they got on full
allowance, they would make up for lost time."

On the morning of the 9th of June, they arrived at
their encampment in Repulse Bay, after being absent
twenty-seven days. The whole party then set actively
to work procuring food, collecting fuel, and preparing
the boats for sea ; and the ice in the bay having broken
up on the 11th of August, on the 12th they left their
winter quarters, and after encountering head winds
and stormy weather, reached Churchill River on the
31 st of August.

A gratuity of 400^ was awarded 'o Mr. Rae, by the
Hudson's Bay Company, for the '.'iportant servioes be
bad thus rendered to 'he cause i science.

196

PUOOKKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

Oaptain Sib John FkanivLin^s Last Expedition.

1845-61.

That Sir John Franklin, now nearly bix yeara ab*
sent, is alive, we dare not affirm ; bnt that bis shipa
ihould be so utterly annihilated that no trace of them
GAD be discovered, or if they have been so entirely
lost, that not a single life should have been saved to
relate the disaster, and that no traces of the crew or
vessels should have been met with by the Esquimaux,
or the exploring parties who have visited ana investi-
gated those coasts, and bays, and inlets to so consid-
erable an extent, is a most extraordinary circumstance.
It is the general belief of those officers who have
served in the former arctic expeditions, that whatevei
accident may have befallen the Erebus and Terror,
they cannot wholly have disappeared from those seas,
and that some traces of their fate, if not some living
remnant of their crews, must eventually reward the
search of the diligent investigator. It is possible that
they may be found in quarters the least expected.
There is still reason, then, for hope^ and for the great
and honorable exertions which that divine spanc in
the soul has prompted and still keeps alive.

"There is something," says the Athenseum, "in-
tensely interesting in the picture of those dreary seas
amid whose strange and unspeakable solitudes our lost
countrymen are, or have been, somewhere imprisoned
for so many years, swarming with the human life that
is risked to set them free. No haunt was ever so ex-
citing — so fall of a wild grandeur and a profound
pathos — as that which had just aroused the arctic
echoes ; that wherein their brothers and companions
have been beating fo» the track by which they may
rescue the lost mariners fi'om the icy grasp of tiie Ge^
uius )f the North. Fancy these men in their adaman
tine prison, wherever it may be, — chained up by th«
polar spirit whom they had dared, — lingering through
years of cold and darknesp on the stinted ration that
scarcely feeds the blood, and the feeble hope that

VRANKLIN S LAST EXPEDITION.

197

"in-

seas

Ir lost

joned

that

JO ftX-

bund
irctic
lions
may

Iman
th«

foagh
that
that

scarcely sustains the heart, — and then imagine the rush
of emotions to greet the finit crj^ fr'^.u that wild hunting
ground which snould reach thSu ears I Through many
Bumtncrs has that cry oeen listened for, no doubt
Something like an expectation of the rescue which it
should announce has revived with each returning sea-
son of comparative light, to die of its own baffled in-
tensity as the long dark months once more settled down
upon their dreary prison-house. — There is scarcely a
(lonbt that the track being now stinick, these long-
pining hearts may be traced to their lair. But what to
tl\e anxious questioning which has year by year gone
forth in search of their fate, will be the answer now
reveaied 1 The trail is found, — but what of the weary
feet that made it? We are not willing needlessly to
alarm the public sympathies, which have been so gene-
rously stirred on behalf of the missing men, — but we
are bound to warn our readers against too sanguine an
entertainment of the hope which the first tidings of the
recent discovery is calculated to suggest. It is scarcely
possible that the provisions which are sufficient for three
years, and adaptable for four, can by any economy
which implies less than starvation have been spread
over five, — and scarcely probable that they can have
been made to do so by the help of any accidents which
the place of confinement supplied. We cannot hear of
this sudden discovery of traces of the vanished crews as
livinw men, without a wish which comes like a pans
that it had been two years ago — or even 'ast year. It
makes the heart sore to think how close re .ef may have
been to tlieir hiding-place in former yei^rs — when it
turned away. There is scarcely reason to doubt that
had the present circumstances of the search occurred
two years ago — last year perhaps— the wanderers
would have been restored. Another year makes a
fi'ightfnl difference in the odds : — and we do not think
the public will eve?- fesl P'^tisfied with what has been
done in this mattei* if th»^ c^itcie so long questioned, and
silent so long, shall apeak at last — and tn© answer shaU
be. 'It is too late'"

198

PBOORES8 OF AROTIQ DISCOVERT.

III

(.''■i

In the prosecution of tlic noble enterprise on which
all eyes are now turned, it is not merely scientific re-
search and geographical discovery that are at present
occupying the attention of the commanders of vessels
sent out ; the lives of human beings are at stake, and
above all, the lives of men who have nobly periled
every thing in the cause of national — nay, of universal
progress and knowledge ; — of men who have evinced
on this and other expeditions the most dauntless bra-
verv that any men can evince. Who can think of the
probable &te of these gallant adventurers without a
shudder?

Alasl how truthfully has Montgomery depicted th«
&tal imprisonment of vessels in these regions : —

There lies a vessel in that rcaltii of frost,
Not wrecked, not stranded, yet forever lost ;
Its keel embedded in the solid mass ;
Its glistening sails appear expanded glass ;
The transverse ropes with pearls enormous stnu^
The yards vritix icicles grotesquely hung.
Wrapt t :x>praa8t shrouds there rests a boj.

His old ^ing father's only joy ;

Sprune i.o^ a race of rovers, ocean bom,
STurseu at the helm, ho trod dry land with soom ,
Through fourscore years from port to port he reu'4 }
Quicksand, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd ;
Now cast ashore, thou&;h like a hulk he lie^
His BOD at sea is ever in his eya
He ne'er shall know in his Nortiaimbrian cot,
How brief tliat son's cai-eer, how strange his lot ;
Writhed round the mast, aud sepulchr^ in air«
Him shall no worm devour, nu vulture tear ;
Congeal'd to adamant his frame shall last*
Though empires change, till tide and time be psai
Mora shall return, and noon, and eve, and night
Meet here with interchanging shade and light ;
But from that barqne no timber shall decay,
Of these cold forms no feature pass away ; t

Perennial ice around th' encrusted bow,
The peoplcd-deck, and fuU-rigg'd mast shall grow
Till uom the sun himself the whole be hid.
Or spied beneath a crystal pyramid :
As in pure amber with divergent lines,
A rugged shell embossed with soa-wecd, shine^
From age to age increased with aimual snow,
This n^w Mont Blanc among the clouds may glow
Whose conic ]ieak that earliest greets tlie dawn.
And latest from the sun's uhut eye withdrawn.

FKAKKLLN^S LAST fiXl'&DITIOa.

Shall from the Zenith, through incumbent glooi^
Burn liku a lamp upon UiIh naval tomb.

But when th' archangel's trumpet huuikIs on high,

tnrougl
Ard'leftvt! ilM (juaii, upstarting at tJto call.

The pilo Hhall burst to atoms through the aky,

NtuuU and pale^ before the Judge of alL

All who read these pages will, I am sure, feel the
>ieepc8t sympatliy and admiration of the zeal, persever-
ance, ancl conjugal afleetion displayed in the noble an ;
untiring efforts of Lady Franklin to relieve or to dis-
cover the fate of her distinguislied husband and the *^al-
lant party under his command, despite the dithcnUies,
disaj)pointment8, and heart-sickening "hope deferred"
with which these efforts have been attended. All men
must feel a lively interest in the fate cf these bold men,
and bo most desirous to contribute toward theiF resto-
ration to their country and their homes. The name of
the present Lady Franklin is as "familiar as a house-
hold word '* in every bosom in England ; she is alike
the object of our admiration, our sympathy, our hopes,
and our prayera. Nay, her name and that of her hus-
band is breathed in prayer in many lands — and, oh I
how earnest, how zealous, how courageous, have been
ber effortfl to find and relieve her husband, for, like
Desdemona,

* She loTed him for the dangers he had passed,
And he lorod her that she did pity them."

Row has she traversed from port to port, bidding "Gcjd
epeed their mission " to each public and private sWp
going forth on the noble errand of mercy — how freerjr
and promptly has she contributed to their comforts.
How has she watched each arrival from the north,
scanned each stray paragraph of news, hurried to the
Admiralty on each rumor, and kept up with unremit-
ting labor a voluminous correspondence with all the
quarters of the globe, fondly wisliing that she had the
wings of the dove, that she might flee away, and be
with him from whom Heaven has seen fit to separate
her so long.

An American poet well depicts her sentiments in the
following lines : —

li I

M. ■ i

.; li

200 I'KOOKKSS OF AROTIO DISCOVERF.

LADY FRANKLIN'S APPEAL TO THE NORTa

Oh, where, my long lost-onc I art thou,

'Mid Arctic fioas and wintry skies t
Deep, Polnr night is on me now,

And H()p«, long wrecked, but mocks vt tPtm
I am like tnee I from frozen plains

In the drear zone and sunless air,
My dying, lonely heart complain(^

And chills in sorrow and despair. '

Tell me, ye Noilhern winds I thnt sweep

Down from the rayleKS, thisky day —
Where ye have borne, and where ye kee^b

My well-beloved within your sway;
Tell me, when next ye wiliily bear

The icy nicssago in your breath,
Of my beloved ! Oh tell me where

Te keep him on the shores of deatk

Toll me, ye Polar seas ! that roll

From ice-bound shore to " .ny isle—
Tell me, when next yo leave the Pole,

Where ye have chained my lord the whUv)
On the bleak Noilhern cliff I wait

With tear-pii.ned eyes to see ye oomef
Will ye not tell me; ere too late f

Or will ye mock while I am dumb t

Tell me, oh tell me, mountain waves t

Whence have ye leaped and sprung to dtf t
BsTe ye passed o'er their sleeping grarei

That ye rush wildly on your way T
Will ye sweep on and bear me too

Down to the caves within the deep t
Oh, bring some token to my view

That ye my loved one safe wiU keep!

Canst thou not tcU me. Polar Star I

Where in the frozen waste he knedtt
And on the icy plains afar

His love to Ood and me reveals ?
Wilt thou not send one brighter my

To my lone heart and aching evet
Wilt thou not turn my night to mj.

And wake my spirit ere I die t

Tell me, oh droary North I for now

My soul is like thine Arctic ioim;
Beneath tlie darkened skies I bow.

Or ride the stormy sea alone t
Tell me of my beloved I for I

Know not a ray my lord withoul |
Oh, tell mo, that I may not die

A sorrower on the sea of doubt f

I*.:

rUANKLTN*B LABT EXPEDITION.

201

Id tho earl^ part of 1849, Sir E. Parry stated, tlial
in olTemng liis opinions, be did so under a deep sense
of tho anxious and even painful responsibility, Dotb at
regarded tho risk of life, as well as the inferior consid
oration of expense involved in further attempts to res
cue our gallant countrymen, or at least the surviving
portion of them, from tlieir perilous position.

But it was his deliberate conviction, that the time
!iad not yet arrived when the attempt ought to bo given
up as hopeless : the further efforts makmg might also
bo tho means of determining their fate, and whether it
pleased God to give success to those efforts or uv* the
Lords of the Admiralty, and tlie country at large, ^vould
hereafter be better satisfied to have followea up the
noble attempts already made, so long as tho most dis-
tant hope romams of ultimate success.

In the absence of authentic information of tho fate
of the jallant band of adventurers, it has been well
observed, the terra incognita of tho northern coast of
Arctic America, will not only be traced, but minutely
surveyed, and the solution of the problem of centuries
will engage the marked attention of the House of Com-
mons, ana the legislative assemblies of other parts of
the world. The problem l^ very safe in their hands, so
safe indeed that two years will not elapse before it is
solved.

The intense anxiety and apprehension now so gener-
ally entertained for the safety of Sir John Franklin,
and the crews of the Erebus and Terror, under his com-
mand, who, if still in existence, are now passing through
the severe ordeal of a fifth winter, in those inclement
regions, imperatively call for every available effort to
be made for their rescue from, a position so perilous ;
and as long as one possible a^ «jnue to that position re-
mains unsearched, the countv/ will not feel satisfied
that every thing has been dv^ne, which perseveranco
and experience can accomplish, to dispel the mystery
which at present surrounds thjir fate.

Capt. Sir James Ross having returned successful from
feifi antarctic expedition in the close of the preceding

2oa

PROGRESS OF AKOTIO DISCOVERT.

year, in the' spring of 1845, the Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty, upon the recommendation of Sir
John Barrow, determmcd on sending out another ex-
pedition to the North Pole.

Accordingly the command was given to Sir John
Fr«»»iklin, wno re-commissioned tlie Erebus and Terror
the two vessels which had just returned from the South
Polar Seas. The expedition sailed from Sheerness on-
the 20th of May, 1845. The following are the officera-
belonging to these vessels, and for whose safety so deep
an interest is now felt : —

Erehus,

Captain — Sir John Franklin, K. C. H.
Commander — James Fitzjames, (Capt.) '
Lieutenants — Graham Gore, (Commander,) Henry

T. D. Le Vesconte, James William Fairholme.
Mates — Chas. F. des Yaux, (Lieut.,) Robert O'Sar-

gent, (Lieut.)
Second Master — Henry F. Collins.
.Surgeon — Stephen S. Stanley.
Assistant-Surgeon — Harry D. S. Goodsir, (acting.)
Paymaster and Purser — Chas. 11. Osmer.
Ice-master — James Reid, acting.
58 Petty Officers, Seamen, Ac.

Full Complement, 70,

Terror,

Captain — Fras 1. M. Crozier.

Lieutenants — Edward Little, (Commander,) GJeo. H.

Hodgson, John Irving.
Mates — Frederick J. Hornby, (Lieutenant,) Kobert

Thomas, (Lieut.)
Ice-master — T. Blanky, facting.)
Second Master — G. A. Maclean.
Surgeon — John S. Peddie.
Assistant-Surgeon — Alexander McDonald.
Clerk in Charge — Edwin J. H. Helpman.
5Y Petty OflBcei's, Seamen, &c.

Full Complement, 68.

fbanklin's last EXPKDITION.

203

(berl

Those officers whose rank is within pareDthesis have
been promoted during their absence.

The following is an outline of Capt. Franklin's ser-
vices as recorded in O'Byrne's Naval Biography : —

Sir John Franklin, Kt., K. R. G., K. 0. IL, D. 0. L.,
F. R. S., was born in 1786, at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire,
and is brother of the late Sir W. Franklin, Kt., Chief
Justice of Madras. He entered the navy in October,
1800, as a boy on board the Polyphemus, 64, Captain
John Lawford, under whom he served as midshipmaii
in the action ofi' Copenhagen, 2d of April, 1801. He
then sailed with Captain Flinders, in H. M. sloop In-
vestigator, on a voyage of discovery to New Holland,
joining there the armed store-ship Porpoise ; he was
wrecked on a coral reef near Cato Bank on the 17th of
August, 1803. I shall not follow him through all his
subsequent period of active naval service, in which ho
displayed conspicuous zeal and activity. But we find
him taking part at the battle of Trafalgar, on the 2 1st
of October, 1805, on board the BePerophon, where he
was signal midshipman. He was connrmed as Lieu-
tenant, on board the Bedford, 74, 11th of February,
1808, and he then escorted the loyal family of Portugal,
from Lisbon to South America. He was engaged in
very arduous services during the expedition against
New Orleans, in the close of 1814, and was slightly
wounded in boat service, and for his brilli£.nt services on
this occasion, was warmly and officially rec^T->raended
for promotion. On the 14th of January, lol8, he as-
sumed command of the liircd brig Trent, in which he
accompanied Captain D. Buchan, of the Dorothea, on
the perilous voyage of discovery to the neighborhood
of Spitzbergoii, which I have fully recorded elsewhere.
In April, 1819, having paid off the Trent in the pre
ceding November, he was invested with the conduct
of an expedition destined to proceed overland from the
shores of Hudson's Bay, for the purpose more particu-
larly of ascertaining the actual position of the mouth
of the C'>ppermine Iliver, and the exact trending of the
ehorcs of the Polar Sea, to the eastward of that river
13 1

v n^

lii

]•.,

r; 1 ■

201

PROGRESS Of AROnO DISCOVERT.

The details of this fearinl undertaking, which en-
dured until the summer of 1822, and in tno course of
which, he readied as far as Point Turnagain, in latitude
08° 19' N., and longitude 109° 25' W., and effected a
journev altogether of 6550 miles. Captain Franklin
lias ably set forth in his " Narrative of a Journey tc
the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the year 1819-22," and
which I have abridged in preceding pages. He was
promoted to the rank of Commander, on the Ist of
January, 1821, and reached his post rank on the 20th
of November, 1822. On the 16th of February, 1825,
this energetic officer again left England on another cx-
pediticr^ to the Frozen Regions, having for its object a
co-operation with Captains F. W. Beechoy, and vV. E.
Parry, in ascertaining from opposite quarters the ex-
istence of a northwest passage. The results of this
mission will be found in detail in Captain Franklin's
"Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the
Polar Sea, in 1825-7."

On his return to England, where he arrived on the
26th of Sept., 1827, Iranklin was presented by the
Geographical Society of Paris, with a gold medal val-
ued at 1200 francs, for having made the most important
acquisitions to geographical Knowledge during tne pre-
ceding year, and on the 29th of April, 1829, he received
the honor of knighthood, besides being awarded in July
following the Oxford degree of a D. C. L.

From 1830 to 1834, he was in active service in com-
mand of II. M. S. Rainbow, on the Mediterranean sta-
tion, and for his exertions dnring that period as con-
nected with the troubles in Greece, was presented with
the order of the Redeemer of Greece. Sir John was
created a K. C. H. on the 25th of January, 1836, and
was for some time Governor of Yan Diemen's Land.
He married, on the 16th of August, 1823, Eleanor
Anne, youngest daughter of W. Porden, Esq., architect,
of Bemers Street, London, and secondly, on the 5th of
November, 1828, Jane, second dauguter of John Gri^
fin, Esq., of Bedford Place.

Captain Crozier was in all Parry's expeditious, ha?

rUANKLINa L\fyr EUVhSimON.

205

iog bften midehipraau vj the Fury in 1821, ia tbo
llecla in 1824, went ov'i ns Lieutenant in tlie Ilecla,
with Parry, on his boat expedition to the Pole in 1827,
volunteered in 1836 to gu out in search of the missing
whalers and their crev/s to Davis' Straits, was made a
Captain in 1841, and was second in command of the
Antarctic expedition under Sir James Ross, and on his
return, appointed to the Terror, as second in command
under Franklin.

Lieutenant Gore served as a mate in the last fearful
voyage of the Terror, under Back, and was also with
Ross in the antarctic expedition. He has attained his
commander's rank during his absence.

Lieutenant Fairholme was in the Niger expedition.

Lieutenant Little has also been promoted during hia
absence, and so have all the mates.

Connnander Fitzjaraes is a brave and gallant officer,
who has seen nmch service in the East, and has attained
to his post rank smce his departure.

The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel in
which Captain Sir 6. Back made his perilous attempt
to reach Repulse Bay, in 1836.

Tiie Erebus and Terror were not expected home un-
less success had early rewarded their efforts, or some
casualty hastened their return, before the close of 1847,
nor were any tidings anticipated from them in the in-
terval ; but when tne autumn of 1847 arrived, without
uny intelligence of the ships, the attention of H. M.
Government was directed to the necessity of searching
for, and conveying relief to them, in case of their being
imprisoned in the ice, or wrecked, and in want of pro-
visions and means of transport.

For this purpose a searching expedition in three
divisions was fitted out by the government, in the early
part of 1848. The investigation was directed to three
different quarters simultaneously, viz : 1st, to that by
which, in case of success, the ships would come out of
the Polar Sea, to the westward, or Behring's Straits.
This consisted of a single ship, the Plover, commanded
by Captain Moore, w^hich lefl England in the latter end

t A<

ii !

206

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

of January, for the purpose of entering Behring's Strait
It was intended that she shouM arrive there in the
month of J uly, and having looked out for a winter har-
bor, she might send out her boats northward and east-
ward, in which directions the discovery ships, if suc-
cessful, would be met with. The Plover, however, in
her first season, never even approached the place of her
destination, owing to her settmg off too late, and to her
bad sailing properties.

Her subsequent proceedings, and those of her boat*
along the coast, will be found narrated in after pages.

The second division of the expedition was one of
boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between
the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, or from the
135th to the 115th degi-ee of W. longitude, together
with the south coast of WoUaston Land, it being sup-
posed, that if Sir John Franklin's party haji been com-
pelled to leave the saij^s and take to the boats, they
would make for this coast, whence they could reach the
Hudson's Bay Company's posts. This party was placed
under the command of the faithful friend of Fi-ankliii,
and the comppnion of his former travels, Dr. Sir John
Richardson, who landed at New York in April, 184:8,
and hastened to join his men and boats, which were
already in advance toward the arctic shore, lie was,
however, unsuccessful in his search.

The remaining and most important portion of this
Bearchin<r expedition consisted of two ships under the
command of Sir James Ross, which sailed in Muy, 1848,
for the locality in which Franklin's ships entei-ed on
this course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of Davis'
Straits. These did not, however, succeed, owing to tlio
state of the ice in getting into Lancaster Sound until
the season for operations had nearly closed. Tiiese ships
wintered in the neighborhood of Leopold Island, Regent
Inlet, and missing the store-ship sent out with pro-
visions and fuel, to enable them to stop out another
year, were driven out through the Strait by the pack
of ice, and returned home unsuccessful. The subse-
quent expeditions consequent upon the failure of tht

fbankun's last expedition.

HOT

foregoing will be found fuUj detailed and .larrated in
tlieir proper order.

Among the number of volunteers for the service of
exijloration, in the difterent searching expeditions, were
the following: — Mr. Chas. Rcid, lately commanding
the whaling ship Pacific, and brother to the ice-master
on board tue Erebus, a man of great experience and

resi

he Rev. Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara in
search of Capt. Conolly and Col. Stoddart.

Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five years
as an officer and partner of the Hudson's Bay Company,
and who has recently published an interesting narra-
tive of his experience in the northwest regions.

Dr. Richard King, who accompanied Capt. Back in
his land journey to the mouth of the Great Fish River.

Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R. N., who had recently gone
out in the Pioneer, tender to the Resolute.

Commander Forsyth, R. N., who volunteered for all
the expeditions, and was at last sent out by Lady Frank-
lin in the Prince Albert.

Dr. McCormick, R. N., who served under Captain Sir
E. Parry, in the attempt to reach the North Pole, in 1827,
who twice previously volunteered his services in 184.7.

Capt. Sir John Ross, who has gone out in the Felijc,
fitted out hj the Hudson's Bay Company, and by pri-
vate subscriptions ; and many others.

Up to the present time no intelligence of any kind
lias been received respecting the expedition, and its
fate lb now exciting the most intense anxiety, not only
on the part of the British government and public, but
of the whole civilized world. The maratirae powers of
Europe and the United States are vying with each other
^s to who shall be the first to discover some trace of the
nissing navigators, and if they be still alive, to render
.hem assistance. The Hudson's Bay Company have,
with a noble liberalitv, placed all their available re-
sources of men, provisions, and the services of their
chief and most experienced traders, at the disposal oft
governme^it, The Kussian authorities have also give»

-.■!■ !

I !l'

B'f

\ :.

( ■

203 •

PiiOOKLtiS OF AKCriC DIBOOV£liT.

every facility for difirusin^ iDformation and affording
iiBisistance in their territories.

In a letter from Sir John Franklin to Colonel Sabine,
dated from the Whale Fish Islands, 9th of July, 1845,
after noticing that, including what they had received
from the transport which had accompanied them so far,
tlie Erebus ana Terror had on board provisions, fuel,
clothing and stores for three years complete from that
date, i. e. to July, 1848, he continues as follows: — "1
hope my dear wife and daughter will not be over-anxious
if we should not retm-n by the time they have fixed upon ;
and I must beg' of you to give them the benefit of your
udvice and experience when that arrives, for you know
well, that even after the second winter, without success
in our object, we should wish to try some other channel,
if the state of our provisions, and the health of the
crews justify it.

Capt. Dannett, of the whaler. Prince of Wales, while
in Melville Bay, last saw the vessels of the expedition,
moored to an iceber g, on the 26th of July, in lat. 74°
48' N., long. 66'^ 13' W., waiting for a favorable open-
ing through the middle ice from J3afiin's Bay to Lancas-
ter Sound. Capt. Dannett states that during three weeks
after parting company with the ships, he experienced
very fine weather, and thinks they would have made
good progress.

Lieut. Griffith, in command of the transport which
accompanied them out with provisions to Baffin's Bay,
re]iort8 that he left all hands well and in high spirits.
They were then famished, he adds, with every species
of provisions for three entire years, independently of
five bullocks, and stores of every description for the
same period, with abundance of fuel.

The following is Sir John Franklin's official lottoi
Bent home by the transport : —

" Jler Majestifs Ship * Erebus^
<* Whale-Fish Islands, 12th of July, 1846.

•* I have the honor to acquaint you, for the informa-
tion of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that

FRAMCLIN^B LAST KXPKDITiON.

209

45.

her Majesty's ships Erebus and Terror, with the trans-
oort, arrived at this anchorage on the 4th instant, hav-
ing had a passage of one month from Stromness : the
transport was immediately taken alongside this ship,
that she might be the more readily cleared ; and we
liave been constantly employed at that operation till
last evening, the delay having been caused not so
much in getting the stores transferred to either of the
Bhips, as in making the best stowage of them below,
as well as on the upper deck ; the snips are now com-
plete with supplies of every kind for three years; they
are therefore very deep; but, happily, we have no
reason to expect much sea as we proceed farther.

"The magnetic instruments were landed the same
morning ; so also were the other instruments requisite
for ascertaining the position of the observatory ; and
it is satisfactory to find that the result of the observa-
tions for latitude and longitude accord very nearly
with those assigned to the same place by Sir Edward
Parry; those for the dip and variation are equally sat-
isfactory, which were made by Captain Crozier with
the instruments belonging to the Terror, and by Com-
mander Fitzjames with those of the Erebus.

" The ships are now being swung, for the purpose
of ascertaining the dip and deviation of the needle on
board, as was done at Greenhithe, which, I trust, will
be completed this afternoon, and I hope to be able to
sail in the night.

"The governor and principal persons are at this
time absent from Disco, so that I nave not been able
to receive any communication from head quarters as
to the state of the ice to the north ; I have, however,
(carnt from a* Danish carpenter in charge of the Es-
quimaux at these islands, that though the winter was
bevere, the spring was not later £han usual, nor was
the ice later in breaking away hereabout; he supposes
also that it is now loose as far as 74° latitude, and that
our prospect is favorable of getting across the barrier,
aiul as far as Lancaster Sound, without much obstruo
tiou.

. !

1 !

;■*■■.«

210

PUOGKKSS OP AKOTIO DISCOVERT.

"The transport will sail for England this daj. 1
Bliall instruct the agent, Lieutenant Griffiths, to pro>
ceed to Deptford, and report his arrival to the Secio-
tary of the Admiralty. I have much satisfaction in
bearing my testimony to the careful and zealous man
ner in whic.b. Lieut. Griffiths has performed the scrvico
intrusted to him, and would beg to recommend him,
as an officer who appears to have seen much service,
to the favorable consideration of their lordships.

"It is unnecessary for me to assure their lordships
of the energy and zeal of Captain Crozier, Commander
Fitzjaraes, and of the officers and men with whom J
have the happiness of being employed on this service
" I have, &c.,
(Signed ) John Franklin, Captain.

«*The Right Bfon. II. L. Corry, M. P."

It has often been a matter of surprise that but one
of the copper cylinders which Sir John Franklin was
instructea to tlirow overboard at stated intervals, to
record his progress, has ever come to hand, but a re-
cent sight of the solitary one which has been received
proves to me that they are utterly useless for the
purpose. A small tube, about the size of an ordi-
nary rocket-case, is hardly ever likely to be observed
among hnge masses of ice, and the waves of the At-
lantic and Pacific, unless drifted by accident on shore,
or near some boat. The Admiralty have wisely or-
dered them to be rendered more conspicuous by being
headed up in some cask or barrel, instructions being
issued to Captain CoUinson, and other officers of the
different expeditious to that effect.

According to Sir John Richardson, who was on inti-
mate terms with Sir John Franklin, his plans were to
shape his course in the first instance for the neighbor-
hood of Cape Wall^er, and to push to the westward in
that parallel, or, if that could not be accomplished, to
make his way southward, to*the channel discovered on
the north coast of the continent, and so on to Behring'a
StraitB ; failing success in that quarter, he meant to re-
trace his course to Wellington Sound, and attempt a

FRANKUN'S last EXPKDinOH.

Sll

or-

passage northward of Parry's Llaiuls, and if foiled there
also, to descend Regent Inlet, and seek the passage
along the coa^t discovered hy Messrs. Dease and Simp-
son.

Captain Fitzjaraes, the second in command nnder
Sir John FranKlin, was much inclined to try the pas-
sage northward of Parry's Islands, and he would no
doubt endeavor to persuade Sir John to pursue this
course if they failed to the southward.

In a private letter of Captain Fitzjames to Sir John
Barrow, dated January, 1845, he writes as follows : —

" It does not appear clear to rae what led Parry down
Prince Regent Inlet, after having got as fur as Melville
Island berore. The northwest passage is certainly to
be gone through by Barrow's Strait, but whether south
or north of Parry'n Group, remains to be proved. I am
for goinc^ north, edging northwest till in longitude 140°,
if possible."

I shall now proceed to trace, in chronological order
and succession, the opinions and proceedings of the
chief arctic explorers and public authorities, with the
private su«^fjestions oflTercd and notice in detail the re-
lief expeditions resulting tfierefrom.

In February, 1847, the Lords of the Admiralty state,
that having unlimited confidence in the skill and re-
sources of Sir John Franklin, they " have as yet felt no
apprehensions about his safety ; but on the other hand,
it IS obvious, that if no accounts of him should arrive
by the end of this year, or, as Sir John Ross expects, at
an earlier period, active steps must then be taken."

Captahi Sir Edward Parry fully concurred in these
views, observing, " Former experience has clearly shown
that with the resources taken from this country, tw^o
winters may be passed in the polar regions, not only in
safety,' but with comfort ; and if anv inference c^n be
drawn from the absence of all intelligence of the ex »e-
dition up to this time, I am disposed to consider it ra-
ther in favor than otherwise of the success which ias
attended their efforts."

Captain Sir G. Back, in a letter to the Secretarj of

212

rUOGKESS OF AliCTIC DISCO VEHY.

I. 1 i,,

the Admiralty, u.ider date 27tli of January, 1848, eayB
"I cannot bring myself to entertain mure than ordi-
nary anxiety fur the safety and return of Sir John
Franklin and his gallant companions."

Captain Sir John Ross records, in February, 1847,
his opinion that the expedition was frozen up beyond
Melville Island, from the knovn intentions of Sir John
Franklin to put his ships into the drift ice at the west-
ern end of Melville Island, h risk whicli was deemed
in the highest degree imprudent by Lieutenant Parry
and the officers of the expedition of 1819-20, with
ships of a less draught of water, and in every respect
better calculated to sustain the pressure of the ice, and
other dangers to which they must be exposed ; and as
it is now well known that the expedition has not suc-
ceeded in passing Behring's Strait, and if not totally
lost, must have been carried by the ice that is known
to drift to tho southward on land seen at a great dis-
tance in that direction, and from which the accumu-
lation of ice behind them will, as in Ross's own case,
forever prevent the return of the ships ; consequently
they must be abandoned. When we remember wilh
what extreme difficulty Ross's party traveled 300 miles
over much smoother ice after they abandoned their
vessel, it appears very doubtful whether Franklin and
his men, 138 in number, could possibly travel 60G
miles.

In the contingency of the ships having penetrated
some considerable distance to the southwest of Cape
Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in the
narrow channels of the Archipelago, which there are
reasons for believing occupies the space between Vic-
toria, Wollaston, and Banks' Lands, it is well re-
marked by Sir John Richardson, that such accidents
among ice are seldom so sudden but that the boats of
one or of both ships, with provisions, can be saved-,
and in such an event the survivore would either returc
to Lancaster Strait, or make for the continent, accord
ing to their nearness.

Colonel Sabine remarks, in a letter dated "Woolv^icJ\

ted
me
the

of
d-,

Ird

franklin's LABT EXl'KDITION.

213

5th of May, 1847, — "It was Sir John Franklin's inten-
tion, if foiled at one point, to try in siicceseion all the
nrohable tipcnings into a more navigable part of the
rolar Sea: the range of coast is considerable in which
memorials of the ships' progress wonld iiave to be
sought for, extending from Melville Island, in the west,
to the great Sound at the head of Baffin's Bay, in the
east."

Sir John Eichardson, when appealed to by the Admi-
ralty in the spring of 1847, as regarded the very strong
apprehensions expressed at that time for the safety ot
the expedition, considered they were premature, us the
ships were specially equipped to pass two winters in
the Arctic Sea, and until the close of that year, he saw
no well-grounded cause for more anxiety than was nat-
urally felt when the expedition sailed from this country
on an enterprise of peril, though not greater than that
which had repeatedly been encountered by others, and
on one occasion by oir John Ross for two winters also,
but who returned in safety.

Captain Sir James C. Koss, in March, 1847, writes*
^'I do not think there is the smallest reason for appre-
hension or anxiety for the safety and success of the
expedition ; no one acquainted with the nature of the
navigation of the Polar Sea would have expected iluiy
would have been able to get through to Behring's Strait
without spending at least two winters in those regions,
except under unusually favorable circumstances, which
all the accounts from the whalers concur in proving
they have not experienced, and I am quite sure neither
Sir John Franklin nor Captain Crozier expected to do so.

"Their last letters to me from Whale Fish Islands
I he day previous to their departure from them inform
ue that they had taken on board provisions for three
years on ftdl allowance, which they could extend to four
years without any serious inconvenience ; so that we
may feel assured they cannot want from that cause until
after the middle of July, 1849 ; it therefore does not
appear to me at all desirable to send after them until the
•pring of the next year." (1848.)

iif

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91^

PROOUE88 OP AltCriO DI8<X)VEETt

" In the plan submitted by Captain F. W. Bccclicy,
CI. N., in April, 1847, uller j)remi8lng "that there does
not at present appear to bo any reasonable apprtilicu-.
eiou for the safety of tl'e expedition," ho suggested tliat
it would perhaps be prudent that a relief expedition
should be sent out that season to Cape Walker, wiieiv
information of an important nature would most likely
be found. From tliia vicinity one vessel could j)rocced
to examine the various points and headlands in Regent
Inlet, and also those to the northward, while the other
watclied the passage, so that Franklin and his party
might not pass unseen, should he be on his return. At
the end ot the season the ships could winter at Poi t
Bowen, or any other port in the vicinity of LeopoM
Island.

" In tlie spring of 1848," he adds, "a party should bo
directed to explore the coast, down to Ilecla and Fury
Strait, and to endeavor to communicate with the party
dispatched by the Hudson's Bay Company in that direc-
tion ; and in connection with this part of the aiTange-
ment, it would render the plan complete if a boat couhl
bo sent down Back's River to range the coast to the
eastward of its mouth, to meet the above mentioned
party ; and thus, while it would complete the geography
of- that part of the American coast, it would at the same
time complete the line of information as to the extensive
measures of relief which their lordships have set on
foot, and the precise spot where assistance and depots
of provisions are to be found. This part of the plan
has suggested itself to me from a conversation I had
with Sir John Franklin as to his first effort beinjy made
to the westward and southwestward of Cape walker.
It is possible that, after passing the Cape, he may havf
oeen successful in getting down upon Victoria Land
ind have passed his first winter (1845) thereabout, and
that he may have spent his second winter at a still more
advanced station, and even endu ed a third, without
either a prospect of success, or of an extrication of his
vessels within a given period of time.

"If, in this condition, which I trust may not be the

OPINfONB AND SITGOESTIONB.

215

owe, Sir John Franklin should resolve up:)n taking to
his hoats, ho would prefer atteniptin*^ a boat navigutio!?
through Sir .lames Koss's Strait, and up Kcgent Inlet,
to a long land journey across the (;t»ntinent, to the Hud-
son's Bay Settlements, to which the greater jmrt of hie
crow would be wliolly unequal."

Sir John Richardson renuirks upon the above sugges-
fions, on the 5th of May, 1847, — "With respect to a

J>arty to be sent down Back's Kiver to the bottom of
tegent Inlet, its size and outfit would require to be
equal with that of tlie one now preparing to descend
the Mackenzie River, and it could scarcely with the
utmost exertions be organized so as to start this sum-
mer. The present scarcity of provisions in the Hudson's
Bay country precludes the hope of assistance from the
Company's southern posts, and it is now too late to
provide the means of transport through the interior of
supplies from this country, which require to be embarked
on board the Hudson's Bay ships by the 2d of June at
the latest.

^* Moreover there is no Company's post on the line ot
Back's River nearer than the junction of Slave River
with Great Slave Lake, and I do not think that under
any circumstances Sir John Franklin would attempt
that route.

" In the summer of 1849, if the resources of the party
I am to conduct remain unimpaired, as I have every
reason to believe they will, much of what Capt. Beechey
suggests in regard to exploring Victoria Land may be
done by it, and indeed forms part of the original scheme.
The extent of the examination of any part of the coast
in 1848 depends, as 1 formerly stated, very much on
♦he seasons of this autumn and next spring, which influ-
ence the advance of the boats throuorh a long course of

river

navigation. As Governor Si

impson will most
likely succeed in procuring an Esquimau^ to accom-
pany my party, I nope by his means to obtain such
information from parties of that nation as may greatly
facilitate our finding the ships, should they be detained
in that quarter

:Ui. !

iiiifi^-

Wl,

216

rU'idliKSrt OK AUCTIO niHUOVKRT.

"Were Sir .Joliii Franklin thrown upon the north
I'oast of tlm continent with h\n lumtH, und all his crow,
1 do not thii»k ho would attoni[>t tho ascent of .".ny river,
cx(!Ci)t the Mackenzie. It in navi«^al)Ie for boats of lar<4;e
drau«;-ijt, without a porta^^e, for I.'JOO miles from the
sea, or within forty miles of Fort (.■hii)i;wyan, one of
the CompanyV principal dej)ots, and there are live
other posts in that distance. Tiiou;i;h tliese posts could
not furnish provisions to such a party, they could, hy
provitlinij; them with nets, and distrihutiiifr the men to
various iishin;^ stations, do much toward procuring food
for them.

"1 concur p^enerally in what Captain Beechey has
eaiil with regard to Hehrin«^'s Straits, a locality with
which he is st) intinuitely accpuiinted, l)ut beg leave to
add one renuirk, viz: tiiat in high northern latitudes
the ordinary allowance of aninuil food is insuflicient in
the winter season to maintain a laboring man in health ;
and as Sir John Franklin would deem it prudent when
detained a second winter to shorten tno allowance,
symptoms of scurvy may show themselvea among the
men, as was the case when Sir Edwa d Parry wintered
two years in Fox^s Channel.

" A vessel, therefore, meeting tho Erobus and Terror
tliis season in Behring's Straits, might render great
Bcrvico." *

Tho late Sir John Barrow, Bart., in a memorandum
dated July, 1847, says : —

" The anxiety that prevails regarding Sir John Frank-
lin, and the brave fellows who compose tho crows of
tho two ships, is very natural, but sotnewhat premature ;
it arises chiefly from nothing having been received from
them since fixed in the ice of Baffin's Bay, where the
last whaling ship of the season of 1845 left them, oppo-
site to the opening into Lancaster Sound. Hitherto no
difticidty luis been found to the entrance into that
Bound. If disappointed, rather than rt^turn to the south-
ward, w tb the view of wintering at or about Disco, 1

• Pari Paper, \o. 264, Setwion 184&

.%-vr

Ol'INIONS AND SUOOfCSTIONB.

217

filiould 1)0 incliruMl to tliink tliut tlioy would endeavor to
cnhu- SinitlTH Sound, so highly Hookcsn of by Jkllin, and
which jiiHt now that gsiliiitit and advcsnturouH UnsHian,
Admiral Count Wrangi'I, han })ointed out in a pajior
addressed to the Geo^raj)hiail Society a^ the Htartjn^
j»hieo for an atten4)t to reach the North Pole; it would
appear to he an inlet that runn up high to the northward,
art an oflieer in one of Parry's Hliips states that he saw
In the line of direction along that inlet, the sun at mid-
night skimming the horizon.

" From Lancaster Sound Franklin's instructions di-
r H'.ted him to proceed through Barrow's Strait, as far as
tlie islands on its southern side extendcul, which is short
of Melville Island, which was to \w avoided, not only
on account of its dangerous coast, hut also as being out
of the direction of the course to the intended ooject.
Having, therefore, reached the last known land on the
southern side of Parrow's Strait, they were to shape
a direct course to Peliring's Strait, without any devia-
tion, except what obstruction might bo met with from
ice, or from islaTids, in the midst of the Polar Sea, of
which no knowledge had at that time been procured ;
but if any such existed, it would of course be left to
their judgment, on the spot, how to get rid of such ob-
structions, by taking a northerly or a southerly course.

" The oidy chance of bringing them upon this (the
A.merican) coast is the possibility of some obstniction
having tempted them to explore an immense inlet on
the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, (short of M< i
vilie Island,) called Wellington Channel, which Parry
felt an inclination to explore, and more than one of
the present party betrayed to me a similar inclination,
which I discouraged, no one venturing to conjecture
even to what extent it might go, or into what dililcultiea
it might lead.

" Under all these circumstances, it would be an act
of .folly to pronounce any opinion of the state, condi-
tion, or position of those two ships : they are well puitcd

5 r

i* J

t^ M

^:!:M"i:

I I

i! ;;

218

PROGRESS OF*AR0TI0 DISCOVERT.

for their purpose, and the only donbt I have is that jf
their being hampered by the crews among the ice.^'

Sir James C. Koss, in his outline of a plan for afford
ing relief, submitted to the Admiralty in December
1847, suggested that two ships should be sent out t(
examine Wellington Channel, alluded to in the forego
ing memorandum of Sir John Barrow, and the. coas
between Capes Clarence and "Walker. A convenien
winter harbor might be foimd for one of the ships nt^ai
Gamier Bay or Cape Eennell. From this position the
coast line could be explored as far as it extended to the
westward, by detached parties, early in the spring, as
well as the western coast of Boothia, a considerable
distance to the southward ; and at a more advanced
period ofthe season the whole distance to Cape Nicolai
miffht be completed.

The other ship should then proceed alone to the
westward, endeavoring to reach Winter Harbor, in
Melville Island, or some convenient port in Banks'
Land, in which to pass the winter.

From these points parties might be sent ont early in
the spring.

The first party should be directed to trace the west-
ern coast of Banks' Land, and proceed direct to Cape
Bathurst or Capo Parry, on each of which Sir John
Richardson proposes to leave depots of provisions for
its use, and tiien to reach the Hudson's Bay Company's
settlement at Fort Good Hope, on the Mackenzie,
whence they might travel by the usual route of the
traders to the pnncipal settlement, and thence to Eng-
land.

Tlie second party should explore the eastern shore of
Banks' Land, and make for Cape Krusenstem, where,
or at Cape Ilearne, they will find a cache of provision
left by Sii" John Richardson, with whom this party
may communicate, and whom it may assist in comple-
ting tlic examination of Wollaston and Victoria Lands,
or return to England by the route he shall deem most
advisable. •

Sir James Ross was intrusted with the carrying-out

. !■>

OPINIONS AND SUaOFSTIONS.

219

i-e,
oil

lo-

l8,

of this search, in the Enterprise and Investigator, and
an account of the voyage and proceedings of these ves-
sels will be ibiind recorded in its chronological order.

The following letter from Dr. Richard King to tho
Lords of the Admiralty contains some useful sugges-
tions, although it is mixed up with a good deal of egcv
tistical remark: —

" 17, Savllle Row^ February^ 1848.

"*The old route of Parry, through Lancaster Sound
and Barrow's Strait, as far as to the Last land on its
southern shore, and thence in a direct line to Behring's
Straits, is the route ordered to bo pursued by Frank-
lin.' *

"The gallant officer has thus been di8])atched to push
his adventurous way b<itween Melville Island and
Banks' Land, which Sir K. Parry attempted for two
years unsuccessfully. A.fter much toil and hardship,
and the best consideration thftt great man could give
to the subject, he recorded, at the moment of retreat,
in indelible characters, these impressive thoughts :
'We have been lying near our present station, with
an easterly wind blowing fresh, for thirty-six hours
together, and although this was considerably off the
land, the ice had not during the whole of that time
moved a single yard from the shore, affording a proof
that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty
to move to the westward. The navigation of this part
of the Polar Sea is only to be performed bv watching
the occasional opening between the ice and the shore,
lud therefore, a continuity of land is essential for this
purpose; such a continuity of land, which was here
about to fail, as must necessarily be furnished by the
northern coast of America, in whatsoever latitude it
may be found.' Assuming, therefore, Sir John Frank-
lin has been arrested between Melville Island and
Banks' Land, where Sir E. Parry was airested by dif-
ficulties which he considered insurmountable, and h'
has follewod the advice of that gallant officer, am^

f !

• BaiTow'a Arctic Vojagea, p. 11.

* '■'■

mm \.

I 1

220

riiOOKKSS OF AliC'llC) lUSUOVKUY.

made for the continuity of America, ho will have
turned the prows of his vessel south and west, accord-
ing as BanKs' Land tends for Victoria dr Wollaston
Lands. It is here, therefore, that we may expect to
tind the exj)edition wrecked, whence they will maku
in their boats for the western land of North Somerset,
if that land should not be too far distant.

"In order to save the party from the ordeal of a
fourth winter, when starvation must be their lot, I
propose to undertake the boldest journey that has ever
l)een attempted in the northern regions of America,
one which was justifiable only from the circumstances.
I propose to attempt to reach the western land of North
Somerset or the eastern portion of Victoria Land, as
may be deemed advisable, by the close of tlie ap-
proaching summer; to accomplish, in fact, in one sum-
mer that which has not been done under two.

" I rest my hope of Buccess in the performance of
tliis Herculean task upon the fact, that I possess an in-
timate knowledge of the country and the people through
which I shall have to pass, the health to stand the
rigor of the climate, ana the strength to undergo tlie
fatigue of mind and body to which I must be subjected.
A glance at the map of North America, directed to
Behring's Strait in the Pacific, Barrow's Strait in the
Atlantic, and the land of North Somerset between
them, will make it apparent that, to render assistance
to a party situated on that coast, there are two ways by
sea and one by land. Of the two sea-ways, the route
by the Pacific is altogether out of the question ; it is an
idea of by-gone days ; while that by the Atlantic is so
doubtful of success, that it is merely necessary, to put
this assistance aside as far from certain, to mention that
Sir John Ross found Barrow's Strait closed in the sum-
mer of 1832. To a land journey, then, alone we can
look for success ; for the failure of a land journey
would be the exception to the rule, while the sea expe-
dition would he the rule itself. To the western land of
North SomeiRct, where Sir John Franklin is likely to
be found, the Great Fish River is the direct and only

omNloNS AND SUOOE8TION8.

221

route ; and iilthough tlio approach to it is throiigli a
country too poor and too ditricult of access to admit of
tlio transport of provisions, it may be made tlie medi-
um of communication between the lost expedition and
tlio civilized world, and guides bp thus placed at their
disposal to convey tliem to the hunting grounds of the
Indians. Without such guides it is imposwible that
Hiey can reach these hunting grounds. It was by the
(Ireat Fish River that I reached the Polar Sea while
acting as second officer, in search of Sir John lloss.
I feel it my duty, therefore, as one of two officers so
peculiarly circumstanced, at the present moment to
place my views on record, as an earnest of my sincer-
ity. Even if it should be determined to try and force
provision vessels through Barrow's Strait, and scour
tlio vicinity in boats for the lost expedition, and should
it succeed, it will be satisfactory to know that such a
mission as I have proposed should be adopted ; while,
if these attempts should fail aiul the service under con
sideration be put aside, it will be a source of rem*et
that not only the nation at hirge will feel, but the whole
civilized world. When this regret is felt, and every
soul has perished, such a mission as I have proposed
will be urged again and again for adoption ; for it is
iinpossible that the country will rest satisfied until a
search be made for the remains of the lost expedition.
" The fact that all lands which have a western aspect
are mjnerally ice-free, which I dwelt largely upon when
Sir John Franklin sailed, must have had weight with
the gallant officer ; he will therefore, on iinding him-
self in a serious difficulty, while pushing along the east-
ern side of Victoria Land, at once fall upon the western
land of North Somerset, as a refuge ground, if he have
the opportunity. The eftbrt by fteliring's Strait and
Hanks' Land is praiseworthy in attempt, but forlorn in
hope. In the former effort, it is assumed that Sir John
Franklin has made the passage, and that his arrest is
between the Mackenzie River and Icy Cape ; in the
latter, that Sir James Ross will reach Banks' Land, and
trace its continuity to Victoria and Wollaston Land,

i il

ill

!!!

; !

i( '

d22

PROaEESS OF AECrriO DISCOVERY.

(' ■

Pi ('

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and thus make the * jpassaffe.' First, We have no rea.
8on to believe tliat Sir John Franklin and Sir James
Ross will be more fortunate than their predecessors,
and we cannot trust to their success. Secondly, We
are unable to assume that Sir James Ross will reach
Bank's Land ; Sir E. Parry was unable to reach it, and
only viewed it from a distance ; much less are we able
to assume that the gallant officer will find a high road
to Victoria Land, wnich is altogether a terra incognita.

" Mr. T. Simpson, who surveyed the arctic coast
comprised between the Coppermine and Castor and
Pollux Rivers, has set that (j[uestion at rest, and is tlie
only authority upon the subject. * A further explora-
tion,' remarks Mr. Simpson, from the most eastern limit
of his journey, ' would necessarily demand the whole
time and energies of another expedition, having some
point of retreat much nearer to tne scene of operations
than Great Bear Lake, and Great Bear Lake is to be
the retreat of Sir John Richardson.'

" What retreat could Mr. Simpson have meant but
Greiat Slave Lake, the retreat of the land party in search
of Sir John Ross ? and what other road to the unex-
ploved ground, the western land of North Somerset,
could tJiat traveler have meant than Great Fish River,
that stream which I have pointed out as the ice free
and high road to the land where the lost expedition is
likely to be found, — to be the boundary of that pass-
age which for three and a half centuries we have been
in vain endeavoring to reach in ships ? "

Captain Sir W. E. Parry, to whom Dr. King's pro-
posal was submitted by the Admiralty, thus comments
on it : —

" My former opinion, quoted by Dr. King, as to the
difficulty of ships penetrating to the westward beyond
Cape Dundas, (the southwestern extremity of Melville
Island.) remains unaltered ; and I should expect that
Sir John Franklin, being aware of this difficulty, would
use his utmost eiForts to get to the southward and west-
ward before he approached that point, that is, between
the 100th and 110th degi-ee of longitude. The more i

OPINIONS AND SPGOESTIOWS

228

have considered this subject, (which has naturally occu-
pied much of mj attention lately,) the more diHicuU 1
find it to conjecture where the expedition may have
stopped, either with or without any serious accident to
tlie ships ; but as no information has reached us up to
this time, I conceive that there is some considerable
probability of their being situated somewhere between
the longitude .1 have just named ; how far they ma^
have penetrated to the southward, between those meri-
dians, must be a matter of speculation, depending on
the state of the ice, and the existence of land in a space
hitherto blank on our maps.

" Be this as it may, I consider it not improbable, an
suggested by Dr. King, that an uttem23t will be made
by them to fall back on the western coast of North
Somerset, wherever that may be found, as being the
nearest point affording a hope of communication, either
with whalers or with ships sent expressly in search of
the expedition.

"Agreeing thus far with Dr. King, I am compelled
to differ with him entirely as to the readiest mode of
reaching that coast, because I feel satisfied that, with
the resources of the expedition now equipping under
Sir James Ross, the energy, skill, and intelligence of
that officer will render it a matter of no very difficult
enterprise to examine the coast in question, either with
liis ships, boats, or traveling parties ; whereas an at-
tempt to reach that coast by an expedition from the
continent of America must, as it appears to me, be ex-
tremely hazardous and uncertain. And as I under-
stand it to be their lordships' intention to direct Sir
James Ross to station one of nis ships somewhere about
Cape "Walker, while the other proceeds on the search,
and likewise to equip his boats specially for the pur-
pose of examining the various coasts and inlets, I am
decidedly of opinion, that, as regards the western coast
of North Somerset, this plan wid be much more likely
to answer the proposed object, than any overland,
expedition. This object will, of course, bo the ipore
easily accomplished in case of Sir James Ross finding

Is ' '

iJ24

PROGRESS OF AitCno DISCJCVEBY.

tlio western coast of North Somerset navigable for liis

fillips.

" In regard to Dr. King's suggestion respecting Vic
toria Land and Wollaston Land, supposing Sir John
Franklin's ships to have been arrested between the
meridians to which I have already alluded, it does
seem, by an inspection of the map, not improbable that
parties may attempt to penetrate to the continent in
that direction ; but not being well acquainted with the
facilities for reaching the coast of America opposite
those lands in the manner proposed by Dr. King, I am
not competent to judge of its practicability."

Nearly the whole of the west coast of North Somer-
set and "feoothia was, (it will be found hereafter,) ex-
plored by parties in boats detached from Sir James
Ross's ships in 1849.

I append, also, the most important portions of Sir
James Ross's remarks on Dr. King's plan.

" Dr. King begins by assuming that Sir John Frank-
lin has attempted to push the ships through to the west-
ward, between Melville Island and Banks' Land, (al-
though directly contrary to his instructions ;) that hav-
ing been arrested by insurmountable difficulties, ho
would have * turned the prows of his vessels to the
south and west, according as Banks' Land tends for
Victoria or Wollaston Land ;' and having been wrecked,
or from any other cause obliged to abandon their ships,
their crews would take to tne boats, and make for the
west coast of North Somerset.

"If the expedition had failed to penetrate to the
westward betweem Banks' Land and Melville Island, it
is very probable it would have next attempted to gain
the continent by a more southerly course ; and suppos-
ing that, after making only small progress, (sav 100
miles,) to the southwest, it should have been then finally
stopped or wrecked, the calamity will have occurred
in about latitude 72 i° N., and longitude 115° W. Tliis
• point is^only 280 miles from the Coppermine River
and 420 miles from the Mackenzie, either of whicl
would, therefore, bo easily attainable, and at each of

OPINIONS AND SUG0ESTI0N8.

225

which, abundance of provision might be procured hy
them, and their return to Engluua a measure of no
great difficulty.

" At the point above mentioned, the distance from
the west coast of North Somerset is orobably about 3G0
miles, and the mouth of the Great 1 ioh Kiver full 500 ;
at neither of these places could they hope to obtain a
single day's provisions for so large a party; and Sir
John Franklin's intimate knowleoge of the impossibil-
ity of ascending that river, or obtaining any food for
his party in passing through the Barren grounds, won Id
concur in deterring him from attempting to gain either
of these points.

"I think it most probable that, from the situation
pointed out, he would, when compelled to abandon iiis
ehips, endeavor in the boats to retrace his steps, and
passing through the channel by which he had advanced,
and which we have alwavs found of easy navigation,
seek the whale ships which annually visit the west coast
of Baffin's Bay.

" It is far more probable, however, that Sir John
Franklin, in obedience to his instructions, would en
deavor to push the ships to the south and west as soon
as they passed Cape AValker, and the consequence of
such a measure, owing to the known prevalence of
westerly wind, and the drift of the main body of the
ice, would be (in my opinion) their inevitable embarrass-
ment, and if he persevered in that direction which he
probably would do, I have no hesitation in stating my
conviction he would never be able to extricate his
ships, and would ultimately be obliged to abandon them.
It is therefore in latitude 73° N. and longitude 105° W.
that we may expect to find them involved in the ice,
or shut up in some harbor. This is almost the only
point in which it is likely they would be detained, oi
from which it would not be posiubleto convey informa-
tion of their situation to thelludsou's l^ay Settlements.

" If, then, we suppose the crews of the ships should
be compelled, either this autumn or next spring, to
abandon their vessels at or near this point, they woulJ

226

PROOKtoid OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

most assuredly endeavor, in their boats, to reach Lan
caster Sound ; but I cannot conceive any position in
which they could be placed from which they would
make for the Great Fish Kiver, or at which any part^
descendmg that river would be likely to overtake tnem ,
and even if it did, of what advantage could it be to
them?

"If Dr. King and his party, in their single canoe,
did fall in with Sir John Franklin and his party on the
west coast of North Somerset, how does he propose to
assist them ? he would barely have sufficient provision
for his own party, and would more probably be in a
condition to require rather than afford relief. He could
only tell them what Sir John Franklin already knows,
from former experience, far better than Dr. King, that it
would be impossible for so large a party, or indeed any
party not previously provided, to travel across the bar-
ren grounds to any of the Hudson's Bay Settlements."

" All that has been done by the way of search since
February, 1848, tends," persists Dr.'King, "to draw
attention closer and closer to the western land of North
Somerset, as the position of Sir John Franklin, and to
the Great Fish (or Back) River, as the high road to
reach it."

Dr. King has twice proposed to the Admiralty to
proceed on the search by this route. " It would," he
states, " be the happiest moment of my life (and my
delight at being selected from a long list of volunteers,
for the relief of Sir John Ross, was very great) if their
lordships would allow me to go by my old route, the
Great Fish River, to attempt to save human life a sec-
ond time on the shores of the Polar Sea. What I did
in search of Sir John Ross is the best earnest of what
1 could do in search of Sir John Franklin."

A meeting of those officers and gentlemen most con
rersant with arctic voyages was convened by tho
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty on the 17th of
January, 1849, at which the followirtg were present : —
Rear- Admiral Sir Francis- Beaufort, K. 0. B., Captain
Sir W. E. Parry, R. N., Captain Sir George Back, R

OPINIONS AMI 8UOOK8TION8.

237

to
he
my
crs,
leir
the
sec-
did
vhat

taic

N"., Captiiiu Sir E. Belclier, R. N., Colonel Sabine, R.
A., and tho Rev. IJr. Scoresby.

A very pretty painting, containing portraits of all the
orincipal arctic voyagers in consultation on those Jtto<
inentous matters, has been made by Mr. Pearse, artist,
of 53, iJerners Street, Oxford Street, which is well
worthy of a visit. The beautiful Arctic Panorama of
Mr. ]>urford, in Leicester Square, will also give a
graphic idea of the scenery and appearance of the icy
regions; the whole being designed from authentic
sketches by Lieut. Browne, now of the Resolute, and
who was out in the Enterprise fh her trip in 1848, and
also with Sir James Ross in his antarctic voyage.

The exj)edition under Sir James Ross having re-
turned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now
determined on, and the opinions of the leading officers
again taken.

Admiral Sir Francis Beanfort, in his report to the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on November
24th, 1849, observes: —

"• There are four ways only in which it is likely that
the Erebus and Terror would have been lost — by fire,
by sunken rocks, by storm, or by being crushed be-4
tween two fields of ice. Both vessels would scarcely
have taken fire together ; if one of them had struck on a
rock the other would have avoided the danger. Storms
in those narrow seas, encumbered with ice, raise no
swell, and could produce no such disaster ; and there-
fore, by the fourth cause a! me could the two vessels
have been at once destroyed , and even in that case
the crews would have escaped Uj. ">n the ice (as happens
every year to the whalers;) they would have saved
their loose boats, and reached some part of the American
shores. As no traces of any such event have been found
on any part of those shores, it may therefore be safely
affirmed that one ship at. least, and both the crews,
are still in existence ; and therefore the point where
they now are is the great matter for consiaeration.

"Their orders would have carried them toward Mel-
ville Tftland, and then out to the westward, where it if

E< I

228

P110GBE88 OF AliCl'IO DISCOVKOT

thcreforo probable that they are entangled amona
iHlands una ico. For should they have been arrcstea
at some intermediate place, for instance, Cape Walker
or at one of the northern chain of islands, they would,
undoubtedly, in the course of the three following yi-ars.
have contrived some method of sending notices of tlieii
position to the shores of North Somerset or to Barrow's
fetrait.

"If they had reached much to the southward of
Bank's Land, they would surely have communicated
with the tribes on Mackenzie River ; and if, failing to
get to the westward or southward, they had returjied
with the intention of penetrating through Wellington
Channel, they would have detached parties on the ice
toward Barrow's Strait, in order to have deposited
statements of their intentions.

" The general conclusion, therefore, remains, that they
are still locked ni) in the Archipelago to the westward
of Melville Islana. Now, it is well known that the
state of the weather alternates between the opj)08ito
sides of Northern America, being mild on the one when
rigorous on the other; and accordingly, during the two
hist years, which have been unusually severe in Baftin's
Bjiy, the United States whalers were successfully trav-
ersing the Polar Sea to the northward of Behring's
Straits. The same severe weather may possibly prevail
on the eastern side during the summer of 1850, and if
eu, it is obvious that an attempt should be now made
by the western opening, and not merely to receive the
two ships, if they should be met coming out (as for-
merly,) but to advance in the direction of Melville
Island, resolutely entering the ice, and employing every
pofiriible expedient by sledging parties, by reconnoitering
balloons, and by blasting the ice, to communicate with,
them.

"These vessels should be intrepidly commanded,
effectively manned, and supplied with the best meaus
for traveling across the ice to the' English or to the
Russian settlements, as it will be of the greatest impor-
tance to be informed of what progress the expeditivO

OPINIONS ANU SLuGE8Tlv>N8.

22U

bas made; and for
will be of material

the Pio^er
advanctid

this purnoso likewise
service, lying at some
point near Icy Capo, and ready to receive intelligence,
and to convey it tO Petropaiilski or to Panama.

"These vessels should enter Behring's Straite before
the first of August, and therefore every effort should
be now made to dispatch them from England before
Christmas. They miglit water at the Falkland IslandsL
and again at the Sandwich Islands, where they would
be ready to receive additional instructions via Panama
by one of the Pacific steamers, and by which vessoi
they might be pushed on some little aistance to th*
uorthward.

" It seems to me likely that the ships have been push-
ing on, summer after summer, in the direction of feehr-
ing's Straits, and are detained somewhere in the space
Bouthwestward of Banks' Land. On the other hand,
should they, after the first or second summer, have been
unsuccessful in that direction, they may have attempted
to proceed to the northward, either through Wellington
Channel, or through some other of the openings among
the same group ot islands. I do not myself attach any
superior importance to Wellington Channel as regards
the northwest passage, but I inderstand that Sir John
Franklin did, and uiat he strongly expressed to Lord
Haddington his intention of attempting that route, if
he should fail in effecting the more direct passage to
the westward.

"The ships having been fully victualed for three
years, the resources may, by one precautions, have
been extended to four years for the whole crews ; but
it has occurred to me, since I had the honor of confer-
ring with their lordships, that, if their numbers have
been gradually diminished to any considerable extent
by death, (a contingency 'which is but too probable, con-
sidering their unparalleled detention in the ice,) the
resources would oe proportionably extended for the
Burvivors, whom it might, therefore, be found expedient
to transfer to one of the ships, with all the remaining
■tores, and with that one ship to continue the endeavor

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230

PROORfilSS OF ARC no DISCOVEKT.

to push westward, or to return to the eastward, as cit-
cumstances might render expedient ; in that case, the
necessity for quitting both the ships in the past sum-
mer might not improbably have bebn obviated.

" Under these circumstances, which, it must be admit
ted, amount to no more than mere -conjecture, it seema
to me expedient still to prosecute the search in both
directions, namely, by way of Behring's Strait (to which
I look with the strongest hope,) and also by that of
Barrow's Strait. In the latter direction, it ought, I
think, to be borne in mind, that the more than usual
difficulties mth which Sir James Ross had to contend,
have, in reality, left us \7ith very little more informa-
tion than before he left England, and I cannot contem-
plate without serious apprehension, leaving that opening
without still fiirther search in the ensuing spring, in
case the missing ^rews have fallen back to the eastern
coast of North Somerset, where they would naturally
look for supplies to be deposited for them, in addition
to the chance of finding some of those left by the Fury.
For the purpose of further pursuing the search by way
of Barrow's Strait, perhaps two small vessels of 150 or
200 tons might suffice, but they must be square rigged
for the navigation among the ice Of course the object
of such vessels would be nearly that which Sir James
Ross's endeavors have failed to accomplish ; and the
provisions, &c., left by that officer at Whaler Point,
as well as any which may be deposited in that neigh-
borhood by the North Star, would greatly add to tlie re-
sources, facilitate the operations, and lessen the risk of
any attempt made in that direction.

" If, however, there be time to get ships to Behring's
Straits by the first week in August, 1850, which would
perhaps require the aid of steam vessels lo accomplisli
with any degree of certainty, I recommend that the
Enterprise and Investigator be fortliwith equipped and
dispatched there, with instructions to push through the
ice to the E. N. E. as far as possible in the ensuing .sea-
son, with the hope of meeting with at least one of tlie
ships, or any of the parties which may h.'ive been

OPINIONS AND SUG0ESTI0N8.

2^31

dt't«c1ied from them. This attempt has never yet been
m;ule by any Rhips, and I cling very strongly to the
belief that such an effort might be attended with sue-
C0S8 in rescuing at least a portion of our people.

"' My reason for urging tnis upon their Lordships is,
that the admirable instructions under which the Plover
assisted by the Herald, is acti'ig, embraces only the
search of the coast line eastward from Icy Cape ; since
the boats and baidars cannot effect any thing except by
creeping along as opportunities offer, between the ice
and the land, so that tliis plan of operations meets only
the contingency of parties reaching, or nearly reaching,
the land ; whereas the chance ot rescue would, as it
appears to me, be immensely increased by ships push-
ing on, clear of the coast, toward Banks' Land and
Melville Island, as far at least as might be practicalu
in the best five or six weeks of the season of 1850."

Captain Parry says — ''Although this is the first at-
tempt ever made to enter the ice in this direction, with
ships properly equipped for the purpose, there is no
reason to anticipate any greater dimculties in this navi-
gation than those encountered in other parts of the
North Polar Sea ; and, even m the event of not suc-
ceeding in reaching Banks' Land in the summer of the
present year, it may be possible to make such pr »^rf>ss
as to afford a reasonable hope of effecting that ooject
in the following season (1861.) Indeed it is possible
that, from the well known fact of the climate being
more temperate in a given parallel of latitude, in going
westward from the Mackenzie River, some comparative
advantage may be derived in the navigation of this
part of the Polar Sea.

" It is of importance to the security of the ships and
of their crews that they should winter in some narbor
or bay not at a distance from land, where the ice might
be in motion during the winter ; and it will be desira-
ble, should no land be discovered fit for this purpose,
m the space at present unexplored between Point Bar-
row ana Banks' Land, that endeavors should be made to
reach the continent about the mouth of the Mackenzie

232

PROQBESS OF ABOTIO DISCOVERT.

-t" ;/■

i w \:

tjr

¥U

River, or further eastward, toward Liverpool Baj
where there is reason to suppose that sufficient shelter
may be found, and in which neighborhood, it appears,
there is r^enerally no ice to be seen from the shore foi
about six weeks in the months of August and Septeni
ber. Sir John Franklin's narrative of his second jour
ney, that of Messrs. Dease and Simpson, and the
Admiralty Charts, will furnish the requisite hydro
graphical information relative to this line of coast, bq
tar as it has been attained.

" The utmost economv should be exercised in the use
of provisions and fuel during the time the ships are in
winter quarters ; and if they should winter on or near
the continent, there would probably be an opportunity
of increasing their stock of provisions by means of
game or fish, and likewise of fuel, by drift or other
wood, to some considerable amount.

" If the progress of the ships in 1850 has been con-
siderable — for instance, as far as the meridian of 120^
"W". — the probability is, that the most practicable way
of returning to England wi!l be, still to push on in the
same direction during the whole season of 18i^l, with
a view to reach Barrow's Strait, and take advantage,
if necessary, of the resources loft by Cai^tain Sir James
Ross at Whaler Point, near Leopold Harbor ; if not the
same season, at least after a second winter. If, on the
other hand, small progress should have been made to
the eastward at the close of the present summer, it
might be prudent that when half the navigable season
of 1851 shall have expired, no further attempts should
be made in proceeding to the eastward, and that the
r^inaining half of that season should be occupied in
returning to the westward, with a view to escape from
the ice by way of Behring's Straits after the wmter of
1851-62, so as not to incur the risk of passing a third
winter in the ice.

" During the summer season, the most vigilant look-
out should be kept from the mast-heads or both ships
night and day, not only for the missing ships, but ror
detacl.ed parties belonging to them ; and during,'

iny

■:-4-

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

233

ol Bay

sheltei
ippearsj
iiore foi
Septera
nd jour
md the

hydro
3oast, BQ

i the use
s are in
or near
ortunity
eans of
jr other

een con-

of 190'

ble way

n in the

n, with

antage,

James

not the

on the

nade to

imer, it

season

should

lat the

pied in

)e from

inter of

a third

it look-
h ships
but K)r
during

tlie few houi*s of darkness which prevail toward the close
of cacli season's navigation, and also when in winter
(piarters, signals, by tires, blue lights, rockets or guns,
should be made^as the means of pointing out the posi-
tion of the ships to any d<3tached parties belonging to
tlie missing expedition. And in the spring before the
ships can DC released from the ice, searching parties
might be sent out in various directions, either in boats
or by land, to examine the neighboring coasts and inlets
for any trace of the missing crews."

Captain Sir George Back also comments (1st of De-
cember, 1849,) on these intentions, in a letter to the Sec-
retary of the Admiralty : —

" You will be pleased. Sir, to impress upon my Lords
Commissioners, that I wholly reject all and every idea
of any attempts on the part oi Sir John Franklin to
send boats or detachments over the ice to any part of
the main-land eastward of the Mackenzie River, because
I can say from experience, that no toil-worn and ex-
hausted party could have the least chance of existence
by going there.

" On the other hand, from my knowledge of Sir John
Franklin, (having been three times on discovery to-
gether j) I much doubt if he would quit his ship at all,
except in a boat ; for any attempt to cross the ice a long
distr u.>- on foot would be tempting death ; and it is too
lab« ' ,6 a task to sledge far over such an uneven sur-
face -1 t} vSQ regions generally present. That great
inortalii' r^ust have occurred, and that one ship, as Sir
E. Beaufort hints at, may bo loi;,are greatly to be teared ;
and, as on all former expeditions, if the survivors are
paralyzed by Uio depressing atitacks of scurvy, it would
then be impossible for theiu however desirous they
might be, to leave the ship, vhich must thus become
their last most anxious aboae^

If, however, open water Urould have allowed Sir
Jc ;» F 'aiildin to have resorteJ to his boats, then I am
persuaded ho would make L/ eitlier the Mackenzie
River, or, which is far more ikely, from the almost
certainty he must have felt ol finduig provision, Cttpa
Clarcne^i and Fury Point.

234

l»ROGRKS8 OK AUCTIO DISCO VKRT.

! ;

1:4'

: t

" I am aware that the whole cnanccs of lite in 11 is
j)aintul case depend on food ; bnt when 1 reflect on
Sir John Franklin's former extraordinary preservation
nnder miseries and trials of the most scN'ere descrij)tion,
living often on scraps of old leather and other retuse, 1
cannot des])air of his lindintr the means to prolong exist-
ence till aid he hai)pily sent him."

Dr. Sir John Richardson on the same day also 6end3
in his 0])inion, as requested, on tlie ])roposed dispatch
of the Enterprise and Investigator to Beliring's Strait ;

"It seems to m io be very desirable that the western
shores of the Arclh] o of Parry's Islands should bo
searched in a high laut de in the manner proposed by
the h^'drographer.

" If the proposed expedition succeeds in establishing
its winter quarters among these islands, parties de-
tached over the ice may travel to the eastward and
southeastward, so as to cross the line of search which it
is iioped Mr. 'Rixd has been able to ])ursue in the present
Rununer, and thus to determine whether any traces o«
the missing ships exist in localities the most remote
from Behring's Strait and Lancaster Sound, and from
whence shipwrecked crews would And the greatest ditti-
cuUy in traveling to any place where they could hopo
to find relief.

"The climate of Arctic America improves in a sensi-
ble manner with an increase of western longitude. On
the Mackenzie, on the 135th meridian, the summer is
warmer than in anv district of the continent in the same
parallel, and it is still finer, and the vegetation more
luxuriant on the banks of the Yucon, on the 15Cth me-
ridian. This superiority of climate leads me to infer,
that ships well fortified against driflfc-ice, will find the
navigation of the Arctic Seas more practicable in its
western portion than it has been found to the eastward.
This inference is supported by my own personal expe-
rience, as far as it goes. I met with no ice in the month
of August, on my late voyage, till I attained the 123d
meridian, and which I was led, from that circumstance,
to eu])])Ose coincided with the western limits of Parry's
ArchiiM'laorr

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

236

'Tlic gitater facility of navigating from tlio west Iiaa
!/rt}n jK)\vcrfully advocated by others on former occa-
sions ; and the chief, j)erhaj)s the only reason wiiy tli-?
attempt to i)enetratc tlie Polar Sea from that quarter
lias not been resuified since the time of Cook is, tha»
llie length of tlie previous voyage to Behring's Strait
would considcraUy diminish the store of provisions
hut tlie facilities of obtaining supplies in the Pacillcaro
now so augmented, that this objection has no longer tho
same force."

Ca])tain F. W. Beechey, writing from Cheltenham,
on the 1st of December, 1849, says : —

" I (putc agree with Sir Francis Beaufort in what ho
has stated with regard to any casualties which Sir J
Fianklin's ships may have sustained, and entirely agree
with him and Sir Edward Parry, that the expedition is
prol)al)ly hampered among the ice somewhere to tho
southwestwanl of Melville Island ; but there is yet a
possibility which does not appear to have been contem-
plated, which is, that of the scurvy having spread among
the crew, and incapacitated a large proportion of them
from making any exertion toward their release, or that
the whole, in a debilitated state, may yet bo clinging
l»y their vessels, existing sparingly upon the provision
which a large mortality may have spnn out, in the hopo
of relief.

"In the first case, that of the ships being hampered
and the crews in good health, I think it certain that, a?
the resources of the ships would be ex]iended in May
last, Sir John Franklin and his crew liave abandonee;
the shi]>8, and pushed forward for the nearest point
. where they might reasonal)ly expect assistance, and
which they could reasonably reach.

"There are consequently three points to which it
would bo proper to direct attention, and as tho case is
urgent, every possible method of relief should be ener-

fjetically ]nished forward at as early a period as possi-
)le, and directed to those points, which, I need scarcely
Bay, are Barrow's Strait, Behring's Strait, and the
aorthcrn coast of America.

J'f I

236

PE0GRES8 OP ARCrriO DISOOVEEY.

" Of the measures wliicU can be resorted to on th*
northern coast of America, the officers who have ha<J
experience there, and the Hudson's Bay Company, will
be able to judge ; but I am of opinion that nothing
should be neglected in that quartfer ; for it seems to
me almost certain that Sir John Franklin and his crew,
if able to travel, have abandoned their ships and made
lor the continent ; and if they have not succeeded in
gaining the Hudson's Bay outposts, they have been
overtaken by winter biefore they could accomplish theii
purpose.

"Lastly as to the opinion which naturally forces itself
upon us, as to the utility of the sending relief to per
sons whose means of subsistence will have failed tkera
more tlian a year by the time the relief could reach
them, I would observe, tliat a prudent reduction of the
allowance may have been timely made, to meet an
emergency, or great mortality may have enabled the
survivors to subsist up to the time required, or it may
1)0 that tlie crews have just missed reaching the points
visited by our parties last year before they quitted them,
:ind in the one case may now be subsisting on the sup-
plies at Leopold Island, or be housed in eastward of Point
Barrow, .sustained by depots which have been fallen in
with, or by the native supplies ; so that under all the
circumstances, I do not consider their condition so
utterly hopeless that we should give up the expectation
of yet bein^ able to render them a timely assistance.

" The endeavors to push forward might be continued
until the 30th of August, at latest, at which time, if th<
ships be not near some land where they can conven
iently pass a winter, they must direct their course for
the main-land, and seek a secure harbor in which they
could remain. And on no account should they risk a
winter in the pack, in consequence of the tides and
shallow water lying oflf the coast.

"Should the expedition reach Herschel Island, or
any otlier place of refuge on the coast near the mouth
of the Mackenzie or Colvillo Eivers, endeavors should
be made to communicate inJ)rmation of the ships' posi

OPINIONS AND BCGGESTI0N8.

23!

tion and summer's proceedings throngh tho Hudson's
Bay Company or Russian settlements, and by means
of interpreters ; and no opportunity should be omitted
of gaining from the natives information of the missing
ressels, as well as of any boat expeditions that may have
^one forward, as well as of the party under Dr. Rae.

" If nothing should be lieard ot Sir John Franklin in
1850, parties of observation should be sent forward in
the spring to intercept the route the ship would have
pursued, and in other useful directions between winter
quarters and Melville Island ; taking especial care that
tliey return to the ship before the time of liberation
of the ships arrives, which greatly depends upon their
locality.

" Then, on the breaking up of the ice, should any
favorable appearance of the ice present itself, the expe-
dition might be left free to take advantage of such a
prospect, or to return round Point Barrow ; making it
imperative, however, either to insure their return*, so
far as human foresight may be exercised, or the cer-
tainty of their reaching Melville Island at the close of
that season, and so securing their return to Ehgland
in 1852.

" If, after all, any unforeseen event should detain the
ships beyond the j^riod contemplated above, every
exertion should be used, by means of boats and in-
terpreters, to communicate with the Mackenzie ; and
should any casualty render it necessary to abandon the
vessels, it should be borne in mind that the reserve-ship
will remain at her quarters until the autumn of 1853,
^nle88 she hears of the safety of the ships and boats
in other directions ; while in the other quarter. Fort
Macpherson, at the entrance of the Mackenzie, may be
relied upon as an asylum.

"The Plover, or reserve-ship, should be provided
with three years' provisions for her own crew, and for
contingencies besides. She should be placed as near
as possible to Point Barrow, and provided with inter
preters, and the means of offering rewards for infor-
mation ; and she should 'emain at her quarters so ion^^

h I:

is.

238

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

as there can be any occasion for her presence in the
Arctic Seas ; or, if she does not hear any thing of the
expedition under Captain CoUinson, as long as hei
provisions will last."

Sir John Richardson offers the following advice for
this expedition: — "If," he says, "it should winter
near the mouth of the Yucan or Colville, that river
may be ascended in a boat in the month of June, be-
f(jre the sea ice begins to give way. The river varies
in width from a mile and a half to two miles, and
flows through a rich, well- wooded valley, abounding in
moose deer, and having a comparatively mild climate.
A Eussian trading post has been built on it, at the dis
tance of three or four days' voyage from the sea, with
the current; but as the current is strong, from nine to
twelve days must be allowed for its ascent, with the
tracking line. It would be unsafe to rely u])on receiv-
ing a supply of provisions at the Russian post, as it is
not likely that any stock beyond what is necessniy for
their own use is laid up by the traders; and the moose
deer being a very shy animal, is not easily shot by an
unpracficed hunter; but the reindeer abound on the
neighboring hills, and are much more approacliabie.
Tiie white-fi'onted goose also breeds in vast fl(»ck8 in
Miat district of the country, and may be killed in num-
bers, without difficulty, in the month of June.

"If the expedition should winter within a reason-
able distance of the Mackenzie, Captain ColHnson
may have it in his power to send dispatches to England
by that route.

"The river opens in June, and as soon as the ice
ceases to drive, may be ascended in a boat, witii a fair
wind, under sail, or with a tracking line.

"The lowest post at present occupied by the 11 ud-
Bon's Bay Company on this river is Fort Good Hope,
The site of this post has been changed several times,
but it is at this time on the right bank of the river, in
latitude Q6° 16' N., and is ten or eleven days* voyage
from the sea At Point Separation, opposite to the
middle chauuel of the delta of the river, and on the

OPINIONS AND 8UOOE8TION8.

289

ice

fair

yucmontory which separates the Peel and the Mac-
kenzie, there is a case of pemmican (80 Ibs.J buried, ten
feet distant from a tree, which has its middle branches
h)pped otf, and is marked on the trunk with a broad
arrow in black paint. A fire was made over the pit
in which the case is concealed, and the remains of tne
charcoal will point out the exact spot. This hoard
was visited last year by a party from Fort Macpher-
eon, Peel's River, when all was safe.

"Eight bags of pemmican, weighing 90 lbs. each,
were deposited at Foi't Good Hope in 1848, and would
remain there last summer for the use of any boat
parties that might ascend the river in 1849 ; but it is
probable that part, or the whole, may have been used
oy the Company by next year.

"A boat party should be furnished with a small
seine and a short herring net, by the use of which a
good supply of fish may often be procured in the
eddies or sandy bays of the Mackenzie. They should
also be provided with a good supply of buck-shot, swan-
shot, duck-shot, and gunpowder. The Loucheux and
Hare Indians will readily give such provisions as they
may happen to have, in exchange for ammunition.
They will expect to receive tobacco gratuitously, as
they are accustomed to do from the traders.

"The Mackenzie is the only water-way by which
any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts can be
reached from the Arctic Sea. There is a post on the
Peel River \7hich enters the delta of the Mackenzie,
out no suppl :es can be procured there. To the east-
ward of the Mackenzie no ship-party would have a
chance of reaching a trading post, the nearest to the
sea being Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, situ-
ated on the Cist parallel of latitude, and the interven-
ing hilly country, intersected by numerous lakes and
rapid rivers, could not be crossed by such a party ii
less than an entire summer, even could they depent
on their guns for a 8upp:y of food. Neither would
be advisable for a party from the ships to attempt to
reach the posts ou the Macke izie by way of the Cop-

210

riluGUKJS OF AltOriO l)lS0OVffiRT#

;i \

permino Rivor and Fort Confidence; ae, in the ab-
sence of means of transport acn)8fl Great Boar Lake,
Ihe journey round that irregular nhoet of water, would
be long and hazardous. Bear Lake River is more
than fifty miles lon^, and Fort Norman, the nearest
post on the Mackenzie, is thirty miles above its mouth.
Mr. Rae was instructed to engage an Indian family or
two to hunt on the tract of country between the Cop-
permine and Great Bear Lake in the summer of 1850 ;
but no great reliance can be placed on these Indians
remaiiing long there, as they desert their hunting
quarters on very slight alarms, being in continuii)
dread of enemies, real or imaginary.

" A case of penmilcan was buried on the summit ot
the bank, about four or five miles from the summit of
Cape Batliurst, the spot being marked by a pole planted
in the earth, and the exact locality of the deposit by a fir-u
of drift-wood, much of which would remain unconsumed.

" Another case was deposited in the cleft of a rock,
on a small battlemented clifl^", which forms the extreme
])art of Cap Parry. Tlie case was covered with loose
etones ; and a pile of stones painted red and white,
was erected immediately in front of it. This clifl:' re-
sembles a cocked-hat in some points of view, and pro-
jects like a tongue from the base of a rounded nil',
which is 600 or 600 feet hi^h.

" Several cases of pemmican were left exposed on a
ledge of rocks in latitude 68° 35' N., opposite Lambert
Island, in Dolphin and Union Strait, and in a bay to
the westward of Cape Krusenstern, a small boat and
ten pieces of pemmican were deposited under a high
clifi', above high water mark, without concealment.
The Esquimaux on this part of the coast are not nu-
merous, and from the position of this hoard, it may
escape discovery by them ; but I have every reason to
believe that the locality has been visited by Mr. Kae in
the past summer. A deposit of larger size, near Cape
Kendall, has been more certainly visited by Mr. Rae."

Captain Sir J. 0, Roes writes from Hasfar, 1 1th of
February, 1860.

)ro-

Ol'IMONB AND BUUUIOS-riUMl.

241

" With rospcct to the probable position of the Ereboi
and Terror, I consider that it is hardly possible thev
can be anywhere to tlie eastward of Melville Island,
or within 300 miles of Leopold Island, for if that wore
ti.ie case, they would assuredly, during the last spring,
have made their way to that point, with the hope of
receiving assistance from the whale-slips whi'jb, foi
several years previous to the departure of that expedi-
tign from England, had been in the habit of visiting
Prince Regent Inlet in pursuit of whales ; and in that
case they must have been met with, or marks of their
encampments have been found by some of the numer-
ouK ])artie8 detached from the Enterprise and Investi-
gator along the shores of that vicinity during the only
ijcriod of Uie season in which traveling is practicable
in thoKe regions.

" It is probable, therefore, that during their first
isnnnner, which was remarkably favorable tor the navi-
gation of those seas, tliey have been enabled (in obedi-
ence to their orders) to push the ships to the westward
of Banks' land, and have there become involved in the
heavy pack of ice which was observed from Melville
Island always to be setting past its westernmost point
in a southeast direction, and from wliich pack they may
not have been able to extricate their ships.

" From such a position, retreat to the eastward would
be next to impossible, while the jouniey to the Mac-
kenzie River, of comparatively easy accomplishment,
together with Sir John Franklin's knowleclge of the
resources in the way and of its practicability, would
strengthen the belief that this measure will have be^n
adopted by them during the last spring.

"If this be assumed as the present position of the
Erebus and Terror, it would manifestly be far more
easy and safe to afford them relief by means of an ex-
pedition entering Behring's Straits, than from any other
direction, as it would not be necessary for the snipe to
de]jart so far from the coast of North America as to
preclude their keeping up a regular communication
with the Russian settlements on the River Colville, or

iti

242

I'KOOliliSS OP AJ{(ri'lU DIBCOVKUV.

'U,f

, :i

tlioflc of tho irudsoirs r>uy Comnany ncnr tlie iiunitli
of tlie Mackenzie, while tiio wliole Hj)aco between any

})o8ition in wliieli tho b1u[j9 might wiiiter, and IJiink.s
"iand could be thoroujjhly examined by travelin<:j ])ar-
ties early in tho spring, or by boats or steam hiunchcH
at a more advanced period of the following season."

Mr. W. Snow, in a letter from New York', dated Ttli
of January, 1850, suggests a ])lan for a well organized
expedition of as many men as could be iitte<l Dut \'\\>m
private funds. " For instance, let a jiarty of 100 picked
men, well disciplined and olHcercd, as on board a sliip,
and accompanied with all the necessary food, seientihc
instruments, and every thing useful on such oxjieditiona.
jM'ocecd immediately, by tlie shortest and most avail-
able routeo, to the lauds in the neighborliood of tlie un
cxj>lored regions. If possible, I would suggest thai
they should proceed first to Moose Fort, on the south
ern pait of Hudson's Bay, and thence by small craft
to Chesterfield Inlet, or otlierwise by land reach that
quarter, so as to arrive there at the opening of summer.
From this neighborhood let the party, minus ton men,
be divided into three separate detachinents, each with
specific instructions to extend their researches in a
northerly and northwesterly direction, Tlie western-
most party to proceed as near as possible in a direct
course to the easternmost limits of discovery yet made
from Behring's Straits, and on no account to deviate
from that course on the western side of it, b'jf, if ne-
cessary, to the eastward. Let the central party shape a
course as near as possible to the position of rhe Mag-
netic Pole ; and tJhe easternmost di\nsion direct to
Prince Hegent Inlet, or the westernmost pH)/nt of dis-
covery from the east, and not to deviate froiM that course
easterly. Let each of these detachments be formed
again into tliree divisions, each division thus consisting
of ten men. Let the first division of each detachmeni
pioneer the way, followed on the same track by tht
second and the third, at stated intervals of time. 0>
the route, let the pioneers, at every spot necessary, leave
distinguishing marks to denote the way, and also to

OPINIONS AND SUOOKfiTlONS.

248

nitl»

iiiiy

])ar-

cllOH

i 7tii

li/A'd
icked

ntitic

tiona.

avail-

»e im

: tluil

south ^

. craft

li that

mmcr.

1 men,

1 with
in a

.^eiiteni-
direct
ma<le
eviate
if ne-
ape a
Mag;-
ect to
lof dis-
course
brmed
si sting
hmenl
by thfe

, leave
Iso to

ffive information to I'itluM- of tho other two princijui.
(Ictachtnentu us may hy chauoe fall into their track
To second the efforts of the tliree detachnicnta, let con
titant succors and other assistance be forwarded hy
way of Moose Fort, and thronch tho ten men loft at
Cliesterfield Inlet ; and shoulu the object for which
siicli an exi)edition was framed be hajjj)ily acconi
plished bv the return of the lost voyagers, let niest en-
ters be torwardcd with the news, as was done witii
Captain Back, in the case of Captain Ross. Let each
of the extreme detaciiments, upon arriving at their re-
spective destination-^, uiid uj)on being joined by the
whole of their body, proceed to form ])hins for uniting
with the central ]>arty, and ascertaining the results
already obtained by each l)y sending parties in that
direction. Also, let a chosen nunil)or be e^-nt out from
each detachment as ex])loring parties, whei ever deemed
requisite ; and let no eifort be wanted to make a eoarch
in every direction where there is a possibility of its
proving successful.

" If a puT)Hc and more extensive expedition bo set on
foot, I would most respectfully draw attention to the
following suggestions: — Let a land expedition be formed
upon a simihirplan, and with the same number of men,
say 300 or more, as those fitted out for sea. Let this
expedition be formed into three great divisions ; the one
proceeding by the Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake,
and following out Captain Back's discoveries ; the
second, through tho Churchill district ; or, with the
third, according to the plan laid out for a private expe
dition alone ; only keeping the whole of their forces as
nmch as possible oearing upon the points where success
may he most likely attainable.

" Each of these three great divisions to be subdivided
and arranged also as in the former case. The expense
of an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary
outlay for provisions, &c., I do not think would be more
than half what the same would cost if sent by sea ; but
of this I am not a competent judge, having no definite
means to make a comparison. But there is yet anothor,

*1
'A

n I
I' >

■ I

^i^^

If i ■

PUOQRIMS OF AUCrnO Dl^OOVKn..

aiul, 1 cannot help conceiving, a more oasy way of o!>
viiiting ull iliniculty on tliis point, and of roducing the
o*:ponso considonijly.

" It inii8t 1)0 evident that the present position of the
arctic voyagers is not very accessible, either by land
or f ca, S\bo tlie distinguished leader at the head of tho
expedition would long ere this have tracked a route
whereby the whole party, or at least some of them
could return.

"In such a case, therefore, tho only waj to reach
thorn is by, if I may use the expression, //>/r/w-c/ an ex-
pedition on toward them ; 1 mean, by keeping it con-
stantly upheld and pushing onward. There may be,
and indeed there are, very great ditHcultie^ and dilH-
cultios of such a nature tliat, I believe, they would
theniselves cause another great difficulty in the procur-
ing of men. But, if I tnight make another bold sug-
gestion, I would respectfully ask our government at
home, why not employ picked men from convicted
criminals, as is done in exploring expeditions in Aus-
tralia 1 Inducements might be held out to them ; and
by proper cave they would bo made most serviceable
auxdiaries. Generally speaking, men convicted of
offt^ sea a!e men possessed of almost inexhaustible
mental resources ; and such men are tho men who,
witli ]>hvsical powei*s of endurance, are precisely those
retjuired. But this I speak of, merely, if sufficient free
men could not be found, and if economy is studied."

Mr. John ^fcLuan, who has been twenty-five years a
partner and officer of the Hudson's Bi y Company, and
has published an interesting narrative of his adven-
turer and experience, writing to Ln/iy Franklin from
Canada West, in January, 1850, suggests the following
very excellent plan as likely to proauce some intelli-
gence, if not to lead to a discovery of the party.

" Let a small schooner of some thirty or forty tons
bnrden, built with a view to draw as little water as
possible, and as strong as wood and iron could make
her, be dispatched from England in company with the
Hudson's Bay ships. This vessel would, immediately

OPINIONS AND HU0Gi£6TI0Nl^

24ft

Oh arriving at York Factory, proceed to the Strait
termed Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, which divi^Sa
Boutiiampton iHhind from the main-land ; then dii« ( ^
her courHe to Wager River, and oroceed onward until
interrupted by inBurmountable obstacles. The party
being safely landed, I would recommend their remain-
ing stationarv until winter travel ingbccaino ()ractical)le,
when they should sot out for the shores ot the Arctic
Sea, which, by a reference to Arrowsmitli's map, aj>
pears to be only some sixty or seventy rnilcs distant ;
then dividing in two parties or diviHions, the oim would
proceed east, the other west ; and I think means could
ue devised of exploring 250 or 300 miles in either
direction ; and here a very important question pre-
sents itself, — how and by what means is this enterprise
to be accomplished ?

"In the first place, the services of Esquimaux would
be indispensable, for the twofold reason, that no reliable
information can be obtained from the natives without
their ai(i, and that thev alone properly anderstand the
art of preparing snow-houses, or * igloes,' for winter en-
campmejjj;, the only lodging which the desolate wastes
of the arctic regions afford. Escmimaux understanding
the English language sufficiently well to answer our
purpose, frequent the Hudson's Ba^ Company's post
m Labrador, some of whom might be induced, (1 should
fain hope,) to engage for the expedition , or probably
the ' halt-breed ' natives might ao so more readily than
the aborigines. They should, if possible, be strong,
active men, and good marksmen, and notle^< than four
in number. Failing in the attempt to procure the na-
tives of Labrador, then 1 should think PJsquimaux
might be obtained at Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; the
two who accompanied Sir John in his first land expedi-
tion were from this quarter."

An expedition of this kind is to be sent out by Lady
Franklin this spring nnder the charge of Mr. Kennedy.
There are various ways of accomplishing this object,
the choice of which must mainly depend on the viewi
and wishes of tho officer who may undertake *he com

lit

246

PK0GK1C8S OF AUCllO DISCOVERY.

I I

mand. Besides the northern route, or that hy liv.<r(in\
Inlet, it is possible to reach Sir James Kuss and Simp-
son's Straits from the south, entering Iludsun's 13a^',
and passing up the Welcome to Kiie Isthmus, or agam
by entering Chesterfield or Wager Iidot, and gaining
the coast by Back's or the Great Fish River.

By cither of these routes a great part of the exi)lora-
tion nmst be nuide in boats or on foot. In awry case
the main })oint8 to bo searched are James Koss's Sti-ait
and Simj)8on'ft Strait, if indeed there be a ])as8age in
that direction, as laid down in Sir John F/ankiin\s charts,
thougli contradicted by Mr. liae, and considered still
doubLful by some arctic navigators.

The following S^tract from the Geographical Juai--
nal shows the opinion of Franklin upon the search of
this quarter. Dr. Richardson says,* — "No better i)la!i
can be proposed than the one suggested by Sir John
Franklin, of sending a vessel to Wager Iliver, and car-
rying on the survey from thence in boats."

Sir John Franklin observes,! — '*The Doctor alludes
in his letter to some propositions which he knew I had
made in the year 1828, at the command of h^sj-)rescnt
Majesty, ^^William IV.,) on the same subject, and partic-
ulariy to tl'^i suggestion as to ]>roceedin<]; from Repulae
or Wager Bay. -^ * ■'^ A recent careful reading <»f all
the narratives connected with the surveys of the Wager
and Repulse Bays, and of Sir Edward rai'ry's Voyage,
together wi^^ the information obtained from theEs({ui-
nuiux by Sir Edward Parry, Sir Jolm Ross, and Cap-
tain Back, confirm me in opinion that a successful de-
lineation of the coast east of Point Turnagain to the
Strait of the Fury and Ilecla, would be best attained
by an ex})edition proceeding from Wager Bay, the
northern j^arts of which cannot, I think, be farther dis-
tant than forty miles from the sea, if the information
received by the above-mentioned officers can be de-
pended on."

Dr. McCormick particularly draws attention to Jones
and Smith's Sounds, recommending a careful examiD

• Journal of Geographical Society, voL vi. p. 40. t Ibid. p. 43.

■!««•

OpIinOKS ANT) 8UC,«iI<> riON».

247

ht'wn of these to their probablo termination in tho
IV)l:ir Sea : —

" Jones' Sound, witli tho Wellington Channel on tiio
west, may bo tbund to form an inland of the land called
' Noi'th Devon.' All prominent positions on both sideH
of these Sounds should bo searched for flag staves and
piles of stones, under whcih copper cylintlers or bot-
tles may have been deposited, containing accounts of
the proceedings of the missing expedition ; and if suc-
cessful in getting upon its track, a clue would be ob-
tained to the fate ot our gallant countrymen."

Tho Wellington Channel he considers affords one of
tho best chances of crossing the track of the missing
expedition.

To carry out this plan efHciently, he recommended
that a boat should be dropped, by the ship conveying
the searching ])arty out, at tho entrance to the Welling-
ton Channel in Barrow's Strait ; from this point one or
l)oth sides of that channel and the northern shores of
the Parry Islands might be explored as far we^t as tho
season would pennit of. But should the ship be en
abled to look into J(mes' Sound, on Iier -"fiy to Lancas-
ter Sound, and find that opcT^ing jrec from iee, an
attempt mig]»t be made by the Boat Expedition to jiush
through it into the Wellington Channel. In tlu sent,
however, of its ])roving to be merely an inlet, wide! a
short delay would be sufKcient to decide, the ship miglit
perhaps be in readiness to pick up the boat on its re-
turn, for conveyance to its ultimate destination through
Lancaster Sound ; or as a precaution against any un-
foreseen separation from the ship, a dej)ot of provisioni^
should be left at the entrance to Jones' Sound for tlu^
boat to complete its supplies from, after accomplishing
the exploration of this inlet, and to afford the means,
if compelled from an advanced period of the season
or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some })hic9
of refuge, either on board a whaler or some one of tlie
depots of provisions on the southern shores of Barjow's
Strait.

f '.-I

4/**"

' ^

Si.

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Mr* Penny, in charge of the Lady Franklin, befon
ailing, observed : —

" If an early passage be obtained, I woiild examine
Tones' Sound, as I have generally found in all my early
/ojages cleur water at the month of that sound, and
'liere is a probability thai an earlier passage by this
route might be found into Wellington otrait, which out-
let ouglit by all means- to be thoroughly examined at
the earliest, opportunity, since, if Sir J. Franklin had
taken that route, with the hope of finding a passage
westward, to the north of the Parry and Melville
Islands, he may be beyond the power of helping him-
self. No trace of the expedition, or practical commu-
nication with Wellington Strait, being obtained in this
quarter, I w^ould proceed in time to take advantage of
the first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound, with
tlie view of proceeding to the west and (entering Wel-
lington Strait, or, if this should not be practicable, of
proceeding farther westward to Cape Walker, and be-
vond, on one or other of which places Sir John Frank-
lin will probably have left some notices of his course."

The government has seen the urgent necessity of
causing the Wellington Channel to be carefully exam-
ined ; imperative orders were sent to Sir James Ross
to search it, but he was drifted out of Barrow's Strait
against his will, before he received those orders by the
North Star.

I have already stated that Sir John Franklin's in-
structions directed him to try the first favorable open-
ing to the southwest after passing Cape Walker; and
failing in that, to try the Wellington Channel. Every
officer in the British Service, as a matter of course,
follows his instructions, as far as they are compatible
with the exigencies of the case, be it what it may, noi
ever deviates from them without good and justifiable
cause. If, then. Sir John Franklin failed in finding an
opening to the southwest of Cape Walker it is reason-
able to suppose he obeyed his instructions, and tried
the Wellington Channel. The second probability in
favor of this locality is, that Sir John Franklin ex-

OPINIONS AND 8CGGE8110K8.

241

the

pressed o many of his friends a favorable opiDion of
the Wellington Channel, and, which is of far raor«
consequence, intimated his opinion officially, and be-
fore the expedition was determined upon, that thifc
strait seemed to offer tlie best chance of success.

Moreover, Capt. Fitzjames, his immediate second Id
command in the Erebus, was strongly in favor of the
Wellington Channel, and always so expressed himself.
See his letter, before quoted, to Sir John Barrow, p. 203

Who can doubt that the opinion of Capt. Fitzjames,
a man of superior minJ, beloved by all who knew him,
and in the service " the observed of all observers," would
have great weight with Sir John Franklin, even if Sir
John had not been himself predisposed to listen to him.
What adds confirmation to the:3e views is, that in 1840,
a few years prior to the starting of the expedition, Col.
Sabine published the deeply interes*.Ing "Narrative of
Baron Wrangel's Expedition to the Polai' Sea, under-
taken between the years 1820 and 1823," and in his pre-
face the translator points to the Wellington Channel as
the most likely course for the successful accomplishment
of the northwest passage. "Setting aside," he says,
" the possibility of tiie existence of unknown land, the
probability of an open sea existing to the north of the
Parry islands, and communicating with Behring Strait,
appears to rest on strict analogical reasoning." And
a<Tain he adds, " all the attempts to effect the northwest
passage, since Barrow's Strait was first passed in 1819,
nave consisted in an endeavor to force a vessel by one
Dute or another through this land-locked and ice-encum-
bered portion of the Polar Ocean."

Ko examination has made known what may bo the
elate of the sea to the north of the Parry Islands;
whetlier pimilar impediments may there present them-
eeives to navigation, or whether a sea may not there
exist offering no difticulties whatever of f^he kind, as M.
Von Wrangel has shown to be the case to the north of
the Siberian Islands, and as by strict analogy we should
be juctified in expecting.

Colonel Sabiue is an officer yf great scientific exp«

5 Si

i'i

■

f f

'!i

i I

250

PROGRBSS OP AKailO DISOOVBlTf

r.gnce, and fi*ora his having made several polar voyages,
he has devoted great attention to all that relates to tliat
'luarter. Ho was in constant communication with Sir
John Franklin when the expedition was fitting out, and
it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be some
what guided bv his opinion.

We have, then, the opinions of Franklin hii..selt
Colonel Sabine, and Captain Fitzjames, all bearing on
this point, and we must remember that Parry, who dis-
ijovered and named this channel, saw nothing when
passing and re-passing it, but a clear open sea to the
northward.

Lieut. S. Osborn, in a paper dated the 4th of January,
1850, makes the following suggestions : —

"General opinion places the lost expedition to the
west of Cape W alker, and south of the latitude of Mel-
ville Island. The distance from Cape Bathurst to Bunks'
Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it
will ba seen that nowhere else does the American conti-
nent approach so near to the supposed position of Frank-
lin's expedition.

" Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst N. 41° 49',
E: 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the
summer season a portion of this distance may be trav
ersed in boats.

"Dr. Richardson confirms pi avious reports of the ice
being light on the coast east of the Mackenzie River to
Cape Bathurst, and informs us t lat the Esquimaux had
sv;en ' no ice to seaward for two moons.'

'' Every mile traversed northward by a party from
Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space in
\rhich traces of Franklin may be expected. It is advis-
able that such a second party be dispatched from Cape
}»atlmrst, in order that the prosecution of Dr. Rae's
examination of the supposed channel between Wollas-
ton and Victoria Lands may in no way be interfered
with, hv his attention beinc: called to the westward."

In March, 1848, the Admiralty announced their inten-
tion of rewarding the crews of any whaling ships that
brouglit accurate infori^jation of the missing expedition,

OI'INKjNS and SUQOESTIOJNtf.

251

m
In

\q
fa

witli the sum of 100 guineas or more, according to cir-
cumstances. Lady Fi-ankiin also about the same timo
offered rewards ot 2000/. and 3000Z., to be di-:cributed
amo' z the owner, olticers, and crew discovering and
affording relief to her husband, or jnaking cxcniordi-
nary exertions for the above object, and, it rj Miirod.
bringing Sir John Franklin and his jiarty to England.

In March, 1850, the following further rewards were
offered by the British government to pe'jons of any
country : —

1st. To any party or person who in the judgment of
the Board of Admiralty, shall discovfcr and enectuully
relieve the crews of 11. M. shipa Erebus and Terror, the
sum of 20,000/., or,

2d. To any party or parties, &c., who sliall discover
and effectually relieve any portion of the crews, or shall
convey such intelligence as shall lead to the relief of
any of the crew, the sum of 10,000/.

3d. To any party or parties who shall by virtue of
his or their efforts, first succeed in ascertaining their
fate, 10,000/.

In a dispatch from Sir George Simpson to Mr. Kite,
dated Lacnine, the 21st of January, 1850, lie says : —

"If they be still alive, I feel satisfied that every effort
it may be in the power of .man to make to succor them
will be exerted by yourself and the Company's oilicers
in Mackenzie River ; but should your late search have
imfortunately ended in disappointment, it is the desire
of the Company that you renew your explorations next
summer, if possible.

" By the annexed correspondence you will obscrv^e that
the opinion in England appears to be that onr explora-
tions ought to be more particularly directed to that ])or-
tion of the Northern Sea lying between Cape Walke
on the east, Melville Island and Banks' Land to the
n(»rth, and the continental shore or the Victoria Islands
to the south.

" As these limits are believed to embrace the course
hat would have been pursued by Sir John Franklin,
Cape Walker being one of the points he was particn-
16 K

'5J

f .

1 L. p

M ,' /

■\ K

I It 1 it

252

rUOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVK.RY.

iarly instructed to make for, you will therefore be
pleased, immediately on the receipt of this letter, to lit
out another exploring party, to proceed in the direction
above indicated, but varying the route that may have
been followed last summer, which party, besides their
own examination of the coast and islands, should be
instructed to offer liberal rewards to the Esquimaux to
search for some vestiges of the missing expedition, and
similar rewards should be offered to the Indians inhab
iting near the coast and Peel's River, and the half-bred
hunters of Mackenzie River, the latter being, perhaj)©,
more energetic than the former ; assuring them that
whoever may procure authentic intelligence will be
largely rewarded.

" Simultaneously with the expedition to proceed to-
ward Cape "Walker, one or two small parties should be
dispatched to the westward of the Mackenzie, in the
direction of Point Barrow, one of which might pass over
to the Youcon River, and descending that stream to the
sea, carry on their explorations in that quarter, while
the other, going down the Mackenzie, might trace tlie
coast thence toward the Youcon. And these parties
must also be instructed to offer rewards to the natives
to prosecute the search in all directions.

" By these means there is reason to believe that in
the course of one year so minute a search '^lay be made
of the coast and the islands, that in the event of the
expedition having passed in that direction, some trace
of their progress would certainly be discovered.

" From your experience in arctic discovery, and pe-
culiar qualifications for such an undertaking, I am in
hopes you may be enabled yourself to assume the
command of the party to proceed to the northward ;
and, as leaders of the two parties to explore the coast
to the westward of the Mackenzie, you will have to
select such officers of the Company's service within
the district as may appear best qualified for the duty
Mr. Murray, I think, would be a very fit man for one
of the leaders, and if one party be sent by way of the
Youcon, he might take charge of it. In the event of

OFIKIONS AND 6LGOE8TIONB.

258

yoar going on this expedition, you will be pleased to
make over the charge of the district to Chief Trader
13eil during your absence.

"In case you may be short-handed, I have by this
conveyance instructed Chief Factor Ballendon to en-
gage in Red River ten choice men, accustomed to boat-
ing, and well fitted for such a duty as will be required
of them ; and if there be a chance of their reacliing
Mackenzie River, or even Athabasca, before the break-
ing up of the ice, to forward them immediately.

" Should the season, however, be too far advanced
to enable them to accomplish the journey by winter
traveling, Mr. Ballenden is directed to increase the
party to fourteen men, with a guide to be dispatclied
from Red River immediately after the opening of tlie
navigation, in two boats, laden with provisions and
flour, and a few bales of clothing, in order to meet, in
some degree, the heavy drain that will be occasioned
on our resources in provisions and necessary supplies
m Mackenzie River. The leader of this party from
Red River may, perhaps, be qualified to act as the
conductor of one of the parties to examine the coast
to the westward."

On the 5th of February, 1850, another consultation
took place at the Admiralty among those officers most
experienced in these matters, and their opinions in
writing were solicited. It is important, therefore, to
submit these as fully as possible to the consideration
of the reader.

The first is the report of the hydrographer of the
Admiralty, dated the 29th of January, 1850 : —

" Memorandum, hy ReaT-Admiral Sir Francis Beau

fort, K. G, B,

"The Behring's Strait expedition being at length
iairly oif, it appears to me to be a duty to submit to
their Lordships that no time should now be lost in
equipping another set of vessels to renew the search
on the opposite side, thi )ugh Baflin's Bay ; and this
being the fifth year that the Erebus and Terror have

254

PROGRESS OF AROTIO DISOOVKRT.

hoen }il)sent, and probably reduced to only casnal snp
[ilii'8 of food and fuel, it may be assumed that tliis
search should be so complete and effectual as to leave
unexamined no place in which, by any of the supposi
tiona that have been put forward, it is at all likely they
may be found.

*' Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders
witli levity, and therefore his first attempt was un
doubtedly made in the direction of Melville Island, and
not to the westward. If foiled in that attempt, he
naturally hauled to the southward, and using Banks
Land as a barrier against the northern ice, he would
try to make westing under its lee. Thirdly, if both of
these roads were found closed against his advance, he
perhaps availed himself of one of the four passages
i)etvveen the Parry Islands, including the Wellington
Channel. Or, lastly, he may have returned to Baffin's
Bay and taken the inviting opening of Jones' Sound.

" All those four tracks must therefore be diligently
examined before the search can be called complete,
and the only method of rendering that examination
prompt and efficient will be through the medium of
steam ; while only useless expense and reiterated dis
appointment will attend the best efforts of sailing ves-
sels, loavino; the lingering survivors of the lost ships.^
as well as their relatives in England, in equal despair.
Had Sir James Koss been in a steam vessel, he would
not have l)eon surrounded with ice and swept out of
the Sh-ait, but by shooting under the protection of Leo-
pold Tsland, he would have waited there till that fatal
field 1 1 ad passed to the eastward, and he then would
have found a perfectly open sea up to Melville Island.

"Tl'.o best application of steam to ice-going vesseh
woulvl be Ericson's screw; but the screw or paddles of
any of our moderate-sized vessels might be made U
elevate with facility. Vessels so fitted would not re-
quire to be fortified in an extraordinary degree, not
more than common whalers. From the log-like quies-
cence with which a sailing vessel must await the crush
of two approaching floes, they must be as strong aa

mmsm>mmmmfm

OPINIONS AND SUOOESTIONB.

255

jeo
ital
|iil6
Ind.

re-

Inot

lies-

^ish

afl

wood niul iron can make them ; but tho stoamor slipa
ont of tlie reach of tlio colliRion, waits till tho shock ia
]»ast, and tlicn profiting by thoir mutual recoil, darts
at once through the transient opening.

"Two such vessels, and each of thera attended by
two tenders laden with coals and provisions, would be
Buthcient for the uiain lines of search. Every prcMui
ncnt point of land where notices might have been left
would be visited, details of their own proceedings would
be deposited, and each of the tenders would bo left in
proper positions, as points of rendezvous on which to
fall back.

"Besides these two branches of the expedition, it
would be well to allow the whaling captain (Penny,) to
carry out his proposed undertaking, llis local knowl-
edge, his thorougli acquaintance with all the mysteries
of the ice navigation, and his well known skill and
resources, seem to point him out as a most valuable
auxiliary.

" But whatever vessels may be chosen for this service,
I would beseech their lordships to expedite them ; all
our attempts have been deferred too long ; and there is
now reason tobelieve that very early in the season, in
May or even in April, Baffin's Bay may be crossed be-
fore the accumulated ice of winter spreads over its
surface. If they arrive rather too soon, they may very
advantageously await the proper moment in some of
tiie Greenland harbors, preparing themselves for the
coming efforts and struggles, and procuring Esquimaux
!nten3reters.

" In order to press every resource into the service of
this noble enterprise, the vessels should be extensively
furnished with means for blasting and splitting the ice,
perhaps circular saws might be adapted to the steamers,
a launch to each party, with a small rotary engine,
sledges for the shore, and light boats with sledge bear-
ings for broken ice-fields, balloofis for the distribution
of advertisements, and kites for the explosion of lofty
tire-balls. And, lastly, they should have vigorous and
numerous crews, so that when detachments are away.

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

f .'

I 1

:y r k

otlicr operations should not bo intermitted for want of
pliysical strength.

" As the council of the Roval Society, some time ago,
thought proper to remind their lordships of the propriety
of iuHtitnting this search, it would be fair now to call on
that learned body for all the advice and suggestions,
that science and philosophy can contribute toward the
accomplishment of the great object on which the eyes
of all England and indeed of all the world, are now
entirely fixed."

Captain Beecbey, writing to the Secretary of the Ad-
miralty, 7th of February, 1850, says : —

" The urgent nature of the case alone can justify the
iiae of ordinary steamers in an icy sea, and great pru-
dence and judgment will be required on the part of
their commanders, to avoid being disabled by collision
and pressure.

" 1 would also add, as an exception, that I think Leo-
pold Island and Cape Walker, it possible, should both
be examined, prior to any attempt being made to pene-
trate in other directions from Barrow's Strait, and that
the bottom of Regent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands,
should not bo left unexamined. In the memorandum
submitted to their lordships on the 17th of January,
1849, tiiis quarter was considered of importance ; and
I am still of opinion, that, had Sir John Franklin aban-
doned his vessels near the coast of America, and much
short of the Mackenzie River, he would have preferred
the proliability of retaining the use of his boats until
he found relief in Barrow? Strait, to risking an over-
land journey via the before-mentioned river ; it must
be remembered, that at the time he sailed, Sir George
Back's discovery had rendered it very probable that
Boothia was an island.

"An objection to the necessity of this search seems
to be, that had Sir John Franklin taken that route, lie
would have reached Fury Beach already. However, 1
cannot but think there will yet be found some good
grounds fur the Esquimaux sketch, and that their mean-
ing lias been misunderstood ; and as Mr. M'Cormick U

OPINIONS OF ARCrriO *0TA0KR8.

257

lorgo
that

jems
lie
|er, 1

jood
lean-

3k ifl

an entorprising porson, whose name has already been
before tneir lordships, I would submit, whether a boat
expedition from Leopold Depot, under his direction,
would not satisfactorily set at rest all inquiry upon this,
now the only quarter unprovided for."

Captain Sir W. E. Parry states : —

"I am decidedly of opinion that the main search
should be renewed in the direction of Melville Island
and Banks' Land, including as a part of the plan the
thorough examination of Wellington Strait and of the
other similar openings between the islands of the group
bearing my name. 1 entertain a growing conviction of
the probabilitjr of the missing ships, or at least a con-
ft'derable portion of the crewc, bemg shut up ut Mel
ville Island, Blanks' Land, or in that neighborhood,
agreeing as I do with Rear AdtiilrHl Sir Francis Beau-
fort, in his report read yesterday to the Board that * Sir
John Franklm is not a man to treut his orders with
levity,' which he would be justly cha''£\^able with doing
if he attached greater weight to any notions he might
personally entertain than to the Admira\fy instructions,
which he well knew to be founded on the eicperience oi'
tormer attempts, and on the best information which
could then be obtained on the subject. For these rea-
sons I can scarcely doubt that he would employ at least
two seasons, those of 1845 and 1846, in an unremitting
attempt to penetrate directly westward or southwest ward
to Behring's Strait.

" Supposing this conjecture to be correct, nothing can
be more likely than that Sir John Franklin's ships, hav-
ing penetrated in seasons of ordinary temperature a
considerable distance in that direction, have been locked
up by successive seasons of extraordinary rigor, thus
baffling the efforts of their weakened crews to escape
from the ice in either of the two directions by Behring^s
or Barrow's Straits.

"And here I cannot but add, that my o'^ni conviction
of this probability — for it is only with probabilitii'S
that we nave to deal — has been greatly strengthened
by a letter I have lately received from Col. Sabine, of

• !

258

PROOIilCSS OF AliOTIO DIflC.'OVKttT.

I .

■ •{•
I fr •

I f-

I ; a

the Royal Artillery, of which I had the honor to sub
tnit rt copy to Sir Fnincis 13ftrinjr. Colonel Sabine
having ucconipuniod two succesHivo expeditiouH to Btit'-
fin'H mv, incluclinff thut under my coinninnd which
reiichcd Molvillo Island, I consider his views to ho well
worthy of thoir lordships' attention on this part of th«
subject.

" It must bo admitted, however, that considerable
weight is due to the conjecture which has been offered
by persona capable of forming a sound judgiru^nt, that
having failed, as I did, in the attempt to penetrate west-
ward, Sir John Franklin nrght deem it j>rudent to re-
truce his steps, and was enabled to do so, in order to try
a more northern route, either through Wellington Strait
or some other of those openings between the Parry
Islands to which I have already referred. And this idea
receives no small importance from the fact, (said to bo
beyond a doubt,) of Sir John Franklin having, before
his departure, ex])res8ed such an intention in case of
failino; to the westward.

" 1 cannot, therefore, consider the intended search to
bo complete without making the examination of Wel-
lington Strait and its adjacent oi)ening8 a distinct ])nrt
of the plan, to be performed by one portion of tho
vessels which I shall presently propose for tho main
expedition.

" Much stress lias likewise been laid, and I tiiink not
nltogothe;* without reason, on the [)ropriety of search-
ing .Tonoo and Smith's Sounds in the northwest parts of
BalKn's Bay. Considerable interest has lately been at-
tached to Jones' Sound, from the fact of its having been
recently navigated by at least one enterprising whaler,
and foui:d to be of great width, free from ice, with a
swell from the westward, and having no land visible from
the mast-head in that direction. It seems more than
probable, therefore, that it may be found to communi-
cate with Wellington Strait ; so that if Sir John Frank-
lin's ships have been detained anywhere to the north-
ward of the Parry Islands, it would be by Jones' Sound
that he would probably endeavor to eflVct bis escape,

OriNIONB AN!) HLGOiiBTlONl*.

259

rathor tlmn by the less direct route of Earrow'e Strait
I do nut nivHelt* attacii much importance to the idea of
Sir John iM-anklin having so far retraced his stepb as
to come back through Lancaster Sound, and recom-
mence his enterprise by entering Jones* Sound ; but
the ])08Hibility of his attempting his escape through
thlH line opening, and the report, (though somewhat
vague,) of a cairn of stones seen by one of the whalers
on a iieadiuud within it, seems to me to render it highly
ex[)cdient to set this question at rest by a search in
this (liiection, including the examination of Smith's
Sound also."

1 hiiis tt) cite next an extract from the letter of Dr. Sir
John Kiciiardson to the Secretary of the Admiralty ; —

''''ITadar Ifospital^ Oonport^^th of February ^ 1850

" With respect to the direction in which a successful
search may be predicated with the most confidence,
very various opinions have been put forth; some huve
supposed either tliat the ships were lost liefore reaching
Lanciister Sound, or tiiatSir John Franklin, finding an
inipasHuble barrier of ice in the eiivrance of Lancaster
Sound, may hive sought for a passage through Jones'
Sound. I do lot feel inclined to give much weight to
citlier conjecture. When we consider the strengtli of
th'^ Erebus ai d Terror, calculated to resist the strongest
probsurc to v hic!i ships navigating Baffin's Bav have
been known to be 8ul)]ect, in conjimclion with the fact
tiKit, of the many whalers which have been crushed or
abandoned since tlie commencement of the fishery, the
crews, or at least the greater part of them, have, in
almost every case, succeeded in reaching other ships, or
the Danish settlements, ^ e cannot believe that the two
discovery ships, which were seen on the edge of the
middle ice so early as the 26th of July, can have been
so suddenly and totally overwhelmed as to preclude
some one of the intelligent officers, whose minds were
prepared for every emergency, with their select crews
of non, experienced in the ice, from placing a boat on
tlio ice or w^ater, and thus carrying intelligence of the

PR0ORTSS8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT,

disaster to one of the many whalers whicn remained fo»
two months afcer that date in those seas, and this in the
absence of any unusual catastrophe among the fishing
vessels that season.

" With respect to Jones' Sound, it is admitted by all
who are intimately acquainted with Sir John T'rankliii,
tliat his first endeavor would be to act up to the letter
of his instructions, and that therefore he would not
liglitly abandon the attempt to pass Lancaster Sound.
From tlie logs of the whalers year after year, we learn
that when once they have succeeded in rounding the
middle ice, they enter Lancaster Sound with facility :
had Sir John Franklin, then, gained that Sound, and
from the premises we appear to be fully justified in
concluding that he did so, and had he afterward en-
countered a compact field of ice, barring Barrow's
Strait and Wellington Sound, he would then, after be-
ing convinced that he would lose the season in attempt
ing to bore through it, have borne up for Jones' Sound,
but not until he had erected a conspicuous landmark,
and lodged a memorandum of his reason for deviating
from his instructions.

"The absence of such a sifnial-post in Lancaster
Sound is an argument against the expedition having
turned back from thence, and is, on the other hand, u
sti-ong support to the suspicion that Barrow's Strait was
as open in 1845 as when Sir W. E. Parry first passed
it in 1819 ; that, such being the case, Sir John Frank-
lin, without delay and witliout landing, pushed on to
Cape Walker, and that, subsequently, in endeavoring
to penetrate to the soutkwest, he became involved in
the drift ice, which, there is reason to believe, urged
by the prevailing winds and the set of the flood tides,
is carried toward Coronation Gulf, through channels
more or less intricate. Should he have found no open-
ing at Cape Walker, he would, of course, have sought
one further to the west ; or, finding the southerly and
westerly opening blocked by ice, he might have tried a
northern passage.

" In either case, the plan of search propounded by

in.' '

OPmiONS AND SUQQESriONS.

261

red m

tidea,
lannels

open-
5ongbt
ly and
Itried a

ed hj

Bir Francis Beaulbrt eeenis to provide against everv
contingency, CBpeciaJly when taken in conjunction with
Captain Collinison's expedition, via Behring's Strait,
and the boat parties from the Mackenzie.

" I do not venture to offer an opinion on the strength
or equipment of the vessels to be employed, or other
merely nautical questions, further than by remarking,
tliat the use of the small vessels, which forms part of
Sir Francis Beaufort's scheme, is supported by the suc-
cess of the early navigators with their very small crafl,
and the late gallant exploit of Mr. Shedden,*in round-
ing Icy Capo and Point Barrow, in the Nancy Dawson
yacht.

" xYnd further, with respect to the comparative merits
of the paddles and screw in the arctic seas, I beg leave
merely to observe, that as long as the screw is immersed
in water it will continue to act, irrespective of the tem
perature of the air ; but when, as occurs late in the
autumn, the atmosphere is suddenly cooled below the
freezing point of sea water, by a northerly gale, while
the sea itself remains warmer, the paddles will be
speedily clogged bv ice accumulating on the floats as
they rise through the air in every revolution. An in-
cident recorded by Sir James C. Koss, furnishes a strik-
i:ig illustration of the powerful action of a cold wind ;
I allude to a fish having been thrown up bv the spray
against the bows of the Terror, and firmly frozen there,
(luring a gale in a high southerly latitude. Moreover,
even with the aid of a ready contrivance for topping
the paddles, the flatness or hollowncss of the sides of a
paddle steamer renders her less flt for sustaining pres-
sure ; the machinery is more in the way of oblique
beams for strengthening, and she is less efficient as a
Bailing vessel wnen the steam is let ofll"

Memorandum inclosed in Dr. IPOormich'a Letter
of the 1st of January y 1850.

** In the month of April last, I laid before my Lorda
Commissioners of the Admiralty a plan of search for
the missing expedition under the command of Ca])tain

?vi;Ur l-i-'f

If' 'iv f '

ac2

PR0GUKS8 OF ARCTIC niSCOVERT

Sir John Franklin, by means of a boat expedition ap
Jones' and Smith's Sounds, volunteering myself to
conduct it.

" In that plan I stated the reasons which had induced
me to direct my attention more especially to the open-
ings at the head of Baffin's Bay, which, at the time
were not included within the general scheme of search.

"Wellington Channel, however, of all the probable
openings into the Polar Sea, possesses the highest de-
gree of interest, and the exploration of it is of such
paramount importance, that I should most unquestion
ably have comprised it within mj'' plan of search, had
not Iler Majesty's ships Enterprise and Investigator
been employed at the time in Barrow's Strait for the
express purpose of examining this inlet and Cape
Walker, two of the most essential points of search in
the whole track of the Erebus and Terror to the west-
ward ; being those points at the very threshold of his
enterprise, from which Sir John Franklin would take
his departure from the known to the unknown, whether
he shaped a southwesterly course from the latter, or
attempted the passat^e in a higher latitude from the
formei point.

" The return of the sea expedition from Port Leo-
poldj and the overland one from the Mackenzie Biver,
both alike unsuccessful in their search, leaves the fate
of the gallant Franklin and his companions as proble-
matical as ever ; in fact, the case stands precisely as it
did two years ago ; the work ie yet to be begun ; every
thing remains to be accomplished.

"In renewal of the search in the ensuing spring,
more would be accomplished in boats than in any other
way, not only by Beh ring's Strait, but from the east-
ward. For the difficulties attendant on icy navigatitm
which form so insuperable a barrier to the progress of
ships, would be reaaily surmounted by boats ; by means
of which the coast line may be closely examined for
cairns of stones, under which Sir John Franklin would
most indubitably deposit memorials of his y)rogre8a
"•p all prominent positions, as opportunities might oifer.

JPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

263

" Tlie discovery of one of these mementos would, in
a » probability, afford a clue that might lead to the res-
cue of our enterprising countrymen, ere another and
sixth winter close in upon them, should they be still,
m existence ; and the time has not yet arrived for aban
doning hope.

" In renewing once more the offer of my services,
which I do most cheerfully, I see no reason for chang-
ing the opinions I entertained last spring ; subsequent
events have only tended to confirm them. I then be-
lieved, and I do so still, after a long and mature con-
sideration of the subject, that Sir John Franklin's ships
have been arrested in a high latitude, and beset in the
heavy polar ice northward of the Parry Islands, and
that their probable course thither has been through the
Wellington Channel, or one of the sounds at the north-
ern extremity of Baffin's Bay.

" This appears to me to be the only view of the case
that ctm in any way account for the entire absence of
all tidin?^8 of them throughout so protracted a period
of time (unless all have perished by some sudden and
overwhelming catastrophe.)

* " Isolated as their position would be under such cir-
cumstances, any attempt to reach the continent of
America at sucn a distance would be hopeless in the
extreme : and the mere chance of any party from the
ships reaching the top of Baffin's Bay at the very mo-
ment of a whaler's brief and uncertain visit would be
attended with by far too great a risk to justify the at-
tempt, for failure would msure inevitable destruction
to the whole party; therefore their only alternative
would be to keep together in their ships, should no dis-
aster have happened to them, and by husbanding their
remaining resources, eke them out with whatever wild
animals may come within their reach.

" Had Sir John Franklin been able to shape a south-
westerly course from Cape Walker, as directed by his
instructions, the probability is, some intelligence of
him would have reached this country ere this, (nearly
five years liaving already elapsed since his departure

■i

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I; 1 ^ 1.

^ 5SI .

i'i'ii

' j • i ?!

■• 1 1 ■■

26^

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

from it.) Parties would have been sent out from Lis
ships, either in the direction of the coast of Amcnca
or Barrow's Strait, whichever happened to be the most
accessible. Esquimaux would nave been fallen in
with, and tidings of the long-absent expedition have
been obtained.

" Failing in penetrating beyond Cape Walker, Sir
John FranKlin would have left some notice of his fu-
ture intentions on that spot, or the nearest accessible
one to it ; and should he then retrace his course for the
Wellington Channel, the most probable conjecture, he
would not pass up that inlet without depositing a fur-
ther account of his proceedings, either on the western
or eastern point of the entrance to it. ,

"Therefore, should my proposal meet with their
Lordships' approbation, I would most respectfully sub-
mit, that the party I have volunteered to conduct
should be landed at the entrance to the Wellington
Channel, or the nearest point attainable by any ship
that their Lordships may deem fit to employ in a fu-
ture search, consistently with any other services that
ship may have to perforin ; and should a landing be
effected on the eastern side, I would propose commenc- *
ing the search from Cape Kiley or Beechey Island in
a northeiiy direction, carefully examining every re-
markable headland and indentation of the western
coast of North Devon for memorials of the missing cx-
])edition ; I would then cross over the Wellington
Channel and continue the search along the northern
shore of Cornwallis Island, extending the exploration
to the westward as far as the remaining portion of the
season would permit, so as to secure the retreat of the
party before the winter set in, returning either by the
eastern or western side of Cornwallis Island, as cir
cumstances might indicate to be the most desirable at
the time, after ascertaining the general extent and
trending of the shores of that island.

"As, however, it would be highly desirable that
Jones' Sound should not be omitted in the search, more
especially as a whaler, last season, reached its entrance

OPLNIOi!48 AND SUQGESTIONB.

265

and reported it open, I would furtner f vopose, that the
ship conveying the exploring party out should look into
this opening on her way to Lancaster Sound, if circum-
stances permitted of her doing so early in the season ;
and, if found to be free from ice, the attempt might be
made by the boat expedition to push through it to the
westward in this latitude ; and should it prove to be
an opening into the Polar Sea, of which I think there
can be little doubt, a great saving of time and distance
would be accomplishea. Failing m this, the ship should
be secured in some central position in the vicmity of
the Wellington Channel, as apoint d^appui to fall back
upon in the search froni that quarter.

(Signed,) R. M'CoKincK, R. N.

" Twickenham^ lat oj Janua/ry^ 1850."

Outline of a Plcm of cm Overland Journey to the
Polar Sea^ hy the Way of the Coppermine Jiiver,
in Search of Sir John ^anhli/n^a tlxpedition^ aug'
gested in 1847.

" If Sir John Franklin, guided by his instructions,
has passed through Barrow's Strait, and shaped a south-
westerly course, from the meridian of Cape ^ Q,lker,
with the intention of gaining the northern coast of the
continent of America, and so passing through the Dol-
phin and Union Strait, along the shore of that conti-
nent, to Behring's Strait;

" His greatest risk of detention by the ice through-
out this course would be found between the parallels of
74° and 69° north latitude, and the meridians of 100°
and 110° west longitude, or, in other words, that por-
tion of the northwest passage which yet remains unex-
plored, occupying the space bciween the western coast
of Boothia on the one side, a^d the island or islands
forming Banks' and Victoria Lands on the other.

" Should the Erebus and Te.ror have been beset in
the heavy drift-ice, or wrecked among it and the bro-
ken land, which in all probability exists there while
contending with the prevalent westerly winds in thji
quarter ;

266

PU00UE&8 OF AKCrriO DISCOVEBt.

' fJ i

I! '

" The Coppermine Kiver would decidedly offer the
most direct route and nearest approach to that portion
of the Polar Sea, and, after crossing Coronation Gulf,
the average breadth of the Strait oetween the Conti
nent and Victoria Land is only about twenty-two miles.

"' From this point a careful search should be com-
menced in the direction of Banks' Land ; the interven-
ing space between it and Victoria Land, occupying
about five degrees, or little more than 300 miles, could,
I think, be accomplished in one season, and a retreat to
winter quarters enected before the winter set in. As
the ice m the Coppermine lliver breaks up in June,
the searching party ought to reach the sea by the be-
ginning of August, which would leave two of the best
months of the year for exploring the Polar Sea, viz ;
August and September.

" As it would be highly desirable that every available
day, to the latest period of the season, shoula be de-
voted to the search, I should propose wintering on the
coast in the vicinity of the mouth of the Coppermine
liiver, which would also afford a favorable position
from which to recommence the search in the following
spring, should the first season prove unsuccessful.

" Of course the object of such an expedition as I have
proposed is not with the view of taking supplies to such
a numerous party as Sir John Franklin has under his
command ; but to find out his position, and acquaint
him where a depot of provisions would be stored up
for himself and crews at my proposed winter quarters,
where a party should be left to build a house, establish
a fishery, and hunt for game, during the absence of the
Bearching party.

" To carrv out this plan efficiently, the Hudson's Bay
Company snould be requested to lend their powerful
'Cooperation in furnishing guides, supplies of pemmican,
&c., for the party on their route and at winter quarters.
Without entering into details here, I may observe, that
I should consider one boat, combining the necessary
requisites in her construction to fit her for either the
river navigation, or that of the shores of the Polar Sea,

OPINIONS AND SDGOESTIONS.

207

Bay
jrftil
ican,
ters.
jthat
|sary
the
ISea.

would be quite sufficient, with a crew one half sailora,
and the other half Canadian boatmen ; the latter to l)e
uugaged at Montreal, for which place I would propose
leaving England in the month ol February.

" Should Buch an expedition even fail in its main ob-
ject — the discovery of the position of the missing ships
and their crews, the long-sought-for polar passage may
be accomplished.

(Signed,) R M'Cobmiok, K. N.

<* Woolwich, 1847."

Copy of a Letter from Lieutenant Shera/rd shorn to
the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,

" Ealing, Middlesex, ^th January, 1850.

" My Lords, — A second attempt to reach Sir John
Franklin's expedition being about to be tried during
the present year, I take the liberty of calling your at-
tention to the inclosed proposition for an overland party
to be dispatched to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a
view to their traversing the short distance between Cape
Bathurst and Banks' Land. My reasons for thus tres-
passing on your attention are as follows ;

" Ist. General opinion places the lost expedition to
the west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of
Melville Island.

" The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land
is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be
seen that nowhere else does the American continent
approach so near to the supposed position of Franklin's
expedition.

" 2d. As a starting point, Cape Bathmrst offers great
advantages ; the arrival of a party sent there from
England may be calculated upon to a day ; whereas
the arrival of Captain CoUinson in the longitude of
Cape Barrow, or tliat of an eastern expedition in Lan-
caster Sound, will depend upon many uncontrollable
contingencies. The distance to be performed is com-
paratively liftle, and the certainty of being able to fall
back upon supplies offers great advantages. Captain

■I

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'I ! s s .

I* Mi

f 'r !

., '

! 1

2 48

PBOOBBBS OF ABOHO DIBOOYEBT.

CoUinson will have 680 miles of longitude to traverM
between Cape Barrow and Banks' Land. An Eastern
Expedition, if opposed by the ice, (as Sir James Ross
has been,) and unable to proceed in their vessels farther
than Leopold Harbor, will have to journey on foot 330
miles to reach the longitude of Banks' Land, and if
any accident occur to tneir vessels, they will be in as
critical a position as those they go to seek.

" 3d. Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst K. 41°
49' E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in
tlie summer season a portion of this distance may be
traversed in boats.

*' 4th and 5th. Dr. Richardson confirms previous re-
ports of the ice being light on the coast east of the
Mackenzie River to Cape Bathurst, and informs na
that the Esquimaux had seen no ice to seaward for two
moons.

" Gth. Every mile traversed northward by a party
from Cape Bathurst would be over that uni. lown space
in which traces of Franklin may be expected.

" 7th. It is advisable that such a second party bo
dispatched from Cape Bathurst, in order that the pros-
ecution of Dr. Rae's examination of the supposed chan-
nel between Wollaston and Victoria Lands may in no
way be interfered with by his attention being called to
the westward.

"8th. The caches of provisions made at different
points of the Mackenzie and at Cape Bathurst, would
enable a party to push down to their starting point with
great celerity directly the River Mackenzie opens,
which may be as early as May.

" I would also remind your Lordships that the pro-
posed expedition would carry into execution a very im-
portant clause in the instnictions given to Sir James
Koss ; viz ; that of sending exploring parties from
Banks' Land in a southwesterly direction toward Cape
Bathurst or Cape Parry.

" In conclusion, I beg to offer my willing services to*
ward the execution of tne proposed plan ; amd seeking
it from no selfish motives, but thoroughly impressed

OPINIONS AND BUOOESTIONB.

2<;9

'ape

to«
dug
jsed

with its feasibility, you may rest assured, my lords,
should I have the honor of being sent upon this service,
that I shall not disappoint your expectations.
"I have, &c.,
(Signed,) *^ Shesasd Osbobn, Lieut., R. N."

Copy of a Letter from Colonel Sabine^ B. A.yto Cap*
tain Sir W. Edward Parry,

" Castle-down Terrace^ JTastings^
" l^th of January y 1850.

**There can be little doubt, I imagine, in the miad of
tny one who has read attentively Franklin's instruc-
tions, and, (in reference to them,) your description of
the state of the ice and of the navigable water in 1819
and 1820, in the route which he was ordered to pursue;
still less, I think, can there be a doubt in the mind of
any one who had the advantage of being with you in
those years, that Franklin, (always supposing no pre-
vious aisaster,) must have made his way to the south-
west part of Melville Island either in 1845 or 1^46. It
has been said that 1845 was an unfavorable season, and
as the navigation of Davis' Strait and Baffin's Bay was
new to Franklin, we may regard it as more prooablc
that it may have taken him two seasons to accomplish
what we accomplished in one. So far, I think, guided
by his instructions and by the experience gained in
1819 and 1820, we may reckon pretty confidently on
the first stage of his proceedings, and doubtless, in his
progress he would have left memorials in the udual
manner p^ places where he may have landed, some of
which wuuid be likely to fall in the way of a vessel fol-
lowing in his track. From the west end of Melville
Island our inferences as to his further proceedings must
become more conjectural, being contingent on thf ; state
of the ice and the existence of navigaole water in the
particular season. K he found the ocean, as we did,
covered to the west and south, as far as the eye could
reach from the summit of the highest hills, with ice of
« thickness unparalleled in any other part of the Polai

270

PE00RKS8 OF AKOTIO DI8C0VKRT.

,M. .1

3iK :

mWf

X f..

I I i
1 I

Sea, he would, after probably waiting through ooo whole
season in the hope of some favorable change, Iiavo re-
traced his Ateps, in obedience to the second part of hia
instructions, in order to seek an opening to the north
which might conduct to a more 02)eu sea. In this case
some memorial of the season passed by him at the
southwest end of Melville Island, and also of his pur
pose of retracing his stops, woidd doubtless have been
left by him ; and shoula he subsequently have found
m opening to the north, presenting a favorable appear-
ance, there also, should circumstances have permitted,
wo'dd a memorial have been left.

" lie may, however, have found a more favorable
state of things at the southwest end of Melville Island
than we did, and may have been led thereby to at-
tempt to force a passage for his ships in the direct lin^
f Behring's Strait, or perhaps, in the first 'ustanee, tc

i»

the south of that direction, namely, to Banks' Lund
in such case two contingencies present themselves
lirst, that in the season of navigation of 1847 he may
have made so much progress, that in 1848 he may liavi-
[•referred the endeavor to push through to Behriii<;\
otrait, or to some western part of the continent, to an
attempt to return by the way of Barrow's Strait ; tlio
niission of the Plover, the Enterprise, and tlie lnve?.-
tigator together with Dr. Rae's expedition, supjtlv, 1
presume, (for I am but partially acquainted with titeir
instructions,) the most judicious means of affording re-
lief in this direction. There is, however, a second con-
tingency ; and it is the one which the impression left
on my mind by the nature and geneial asjjcct of the
ice in the twelve months which we ourselves passed at
the southwest end of Melville Island, compels nie, in
spite of my wishes, to regard as the more probable,
viz., that his advance from Melville Island in the sea
son of 1847 may have been limited to a distance of
fifty, or perhaps one hundred miles at farthest, and
that in 1848 he may have endeavored to retrace his
steps, but only with partial success. It is, I apprehend,
quite a conceivable case, thatundor these circumstances.

0PINT0N8 AND BUOOE81IONB.

272

ail

?i't

the

ii)

[lt3,

incapable of extricating the ships from the fee, the
crews may have been, at length, obliged to quit tliem,
and attempt a retreat, not toward the continent, because
too distant, but to Melville Island, whore certainly
food, and probably fuel (seals,) might be obtained, and
where they would naturally suppose that vessels dis-
patched from England for their relief would, in the
iirst instance, seek them. It is quite conceivable also,
I aj)prehend, that the circumstances might be such
that their retreat may have been made without their
boats, and probably in the April or May of 1849

''Wiierethe Esquimaux have lived, there Engli8>imen
may livg, and no valid argument against the attempt
to relieve can, I think, be founded on the improbability
of finding Englishmen alive in 1850, who may have
made a retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ;
nor would the view of the case be altered in any ma-
terial degree, if we suppose their retreat to have been
made in 1848 or 1849 to Banks' Land, which rnay
afford facilities of food and fuel equal or superior to
Melville Island, and a further retreat iu the following
year to the latter island as the point at which ibey
would more probably look out for succor.

" Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts
made in other directions, I retain my original opinion,
which seems also to have been the opinion -of the
Board of Admiralty, by which Boss's instructions were
drawn up, that the most promising direction for re.-
search would be taken by a vessel which should follow
them to the southwest point of Melville Island, be pre-
pared to winter there, and, if necessary, to send a
party across the ice in April or May to examine Banks'
Land, a distance (there and back) less than recently
accomplished by Ross in his land journey.

"I learn from Boss's dispatches, that almost imme-
diately after he got out of Port Leopold (1849,) he was
entangled in apparently interminable fields and floes
of ice, with which, in the course of the summer, he
was drifted down through Barrow's Strait and Baffin's
Bay nearly to Davis' Strait. It is reasonable to pre-

i 'M-, j-

hfji'

%^: : i

ti).

272

riiOGlUiSa oF AUUTIC DlbGOViillT.

Bume, tlkcrefore, that the localities fron. whence this
ice drifted are likely to be less encumbered than nsnal
by accumulated ice in 1850. It is, of course, of the
highest impox'*"<'-nce to reach BavTow's Strait at the ear-
liest possible period of the season ; and, connected with
this point I learn from Captain Bird, whom I had the
pleasure of seeing here a few days ago, a very remark-
able fact, that the ice which prevented tlieir cros^iing
Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73° of latitude (as we did in
1819, arriving in Barrow's Strait a month earlier than
we had done the preceding year, when we went round
by Melville Bay, and nearly a month earlier tlian Boss
did last year) was young ice, which had formed in the
remarkably calm summer of last year, and which the
absence of wind prevented thair forcing a passage
through, on the one hand, while on the other, the ice
was not heavy enough for ice anchors. It was, he said,
not more than two or two and a half feet thick, and ob
viously of very recent formatio*!. There must, there-
fore, have been an earlier p )riod of the season when
this part of the sea must have been free from ice; and
this comes in confirmation of a circumstance of which
I was informed by Mr. Petersen (a Danish gentleman
sent to England some months ago by the Northern So-
ciety of Antiquavies of Copenhagen, to make extracts
from b^oks and manuscripts in the British Museum,)
that the Northmen, who had settlements some centu-
ries ago on the west coast of Greenland, were in the
habit of crossing. Baffin's Bay in the latitude of Uper-
aavic in the spring of the year, for the purpose of fish-
ing in Barrow's Strait, from whence they returned in
August; and that in the early months they generally
found the passage across free from ice.

" In the preceding i-emarks, I have left one contin-

fjency uncoi^sidered ; it is that which would have fol-
owed in pursuance of his instructions, if Franklin should
liave found the aspect of the ice too unfavorable to tlie
west and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a
passage through it, and shor.ld have retraced his stej^
(n hopes of finding ^ wore open sea to the northward,

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

273

♦ntlier in Wellington Strait or elsewhere. It is quite
conceivable tliat here also the expedition may have en«
r.oiintered, at no very great distance, insnpei'able diffi-
culties to their advance, and may have failed in accom-
plishing a retnrn with their ships. In this case, the
retreat of the crews, supposing it to have been made
across land or ice, would most probably lie directed to
some part of the coast on the route to Melville Island,
on which route they would, without doubt, expect that
succor would be attempted."

Mr. Robert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. II. D. Good
sir, the assistant-surgeon of Sir Jo'ni Franklin's ship,
the Ertbus, left Stromness, as surgeon of the Advice,
whaler, Capt. Penny, on the 17th of March, 1849, in
the hopes of gaining some tidings of his brother ; but
returned unsuccessful after an eight months' voyage,
lie has, however, published a very interesting little
nai-rative of the icy regions and of his arctic voyage.

In a letter to Lady Franklin, dated Edinburgh, 18th
of January, 1850, he says : — " I trust you are not allow-
ing yourself to become over-anxious. I know that,
although there is much cause to be so, there is still not
the slightest reason that we should despair. It may be
presumptuous in me to say so, but I have never for a
moment doubted as to their ultimate safe return, having
always had a sort of presentiment that I would meet my
l)rc»ther and his companions somewhere in the regions
in which their adventures are taking place. This liope
I have not yet given up, and I trust ^..at by iicxt sum-
mer it may be fullilled, when an end will be put to the
puspense whicli has lasted so long, and which must have
tried you so much." ,

The arctic regions, fai- from being so destitute of ani-
mal life as might be sup])o.,ed from the bleak and inhos-
pital)lo r-liaractiM- of the climate, are proverbial for the
ooundloss ])rofusion of varior.s species of the animal
kinu'dom, which are to be met with in different locali-
ties (luring a great part of the year.

The air is <^thn darkened by innumerable flocks of
arctic ari'l h\m}. gulls, {LestrU raraHiUcm^^ and Laru%

'; I-

In; I

''!;

ST4

PKOORKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

glaucus^) the ivory gull or snow-bird, {Zarus eburneuk )
the ki tiwake, the nilmar or petrel, snow geese, terns,
coons, dovekies, &c. The cetaceous animals comprise
the great GreeHland whale, {Balmna mysticetus^) the
sea unicorn or narwhal, {Monodon monoceros^ the
white whale or beluga, {Deljphinus Uucos^ the morse
or walrus, {Trioheous rosmarus^ and the seal. There
are also plenty of porpoises occasionally to be met with,
and although these animals may not be the best of food,
yet they can be eaten. Of the land animals I may in-
stance the polar bear, the musk-ox, the reindeer, the
arctic fox and wolves.

Parry obtained nearly 40001b8. weight of animal food
during his winter residence at Melville Island ; Ross
nearly the same quantity from birds alone when winter-
ing at Port Leopold.

in 1719, the crews of two Hudson's Bay vessels, the
Albany and Discovery, a ship and sloop, under the
command of Mr. Barlow and Mr. Knight, were cast on
shore on Marble Island, and it was subsequently ascer-
tained that some of the party supported life for nearly
three years. Mr. Hearne" learned the particulars from
some of the Esquimaux in 1729. The ship it appeared
went on shore in the fall of 1719 ; the party being then
in number about fitly, began to build their house for
the winter. As soon as the ice permitted in the follow-
ing summer the Esquimaux paid them another visit, and
found the number of sailors much reduced, and very
unhealthy.

Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among
them that by the setting in of the second winter, theii
number was reduced to twenty. Some of the Esqui-
maux took up their abode at this period on the opjusit*
side of the harbor, and supplied them with what provi»
ions they could spare in the shape of blubber, 8eal>
flesh, and train oil.

The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the
spring, and on revisiting the island in the summer of
1721, only five of the crews wore found alive, and these
were so ravenous for food, that they devoured the blub-

wmitmamtn a mr nna

ABUNDANCE OF ANIMAL FOOD MET WITH.

275

ber and 8ear« flesh raw, as thej purchased it of the
natives, which proved so injiiriouo in their weak stale,
that thi'ee of them died in a few days. Tlie two sur-
vivors, though very weak, managed to bury their com-
rades, and protracted their existence for some days
longer.

"They frequently," in the words of the narrative,
'went to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly
looked to the south and east, as if in expectation of some
vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there
a considerable time, and nothing appearing in sight,
they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At
length one of the two died, and the other's strength was
so far exhausted, that he fell down and died also in
attempting to dig a grave for his companion, Tlie skulls
jmd other large bones of these two men are now lying
abt)ve ground close to the house."

Sir jolm Richardson, speaking of the amount of food
to be obtained in the polar region, says, "Deer migivite
over the ice in the spring from the main shore to v ic-
toria and Wollaston Lands in large herds, and return in
the autumn. These lands are also the breeding places
of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that with ordinary
skill in hunting, a large supply of food might be pro-
cured on their shores, m the months of June, July, and
August. Seals are also numerous in those seas, and
are easily shot, their curiosity rendering them a ready
prey to a boat party." In these ways and by fishing,
the stock of provisions might be greatly augmented —
and we have the recent example of Mr. Rae, who
passed a severe winter on the very barren shores of
Repulse Bay, with no other fuel than the withered tufts
of a herbaceous andromada, and maintained a numer-
ous party on the spoils of the chase alone for a whole
year. Such instances, forbid us to lose hope. Should
Sir John Franklin's provisions become so far inade-
quate to a winter's consumption, it is not likely that he
would remain longer by his ships, but rather that in
one body, or in several, the officers and crews, with
boats cut down so as to be light enough to drag over

276

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DI8CCVEEY.

' 1 ■ '■

hf.\ ''i

¥<■ '

: 11

I^i1'-

\ ■ 1 1

', ' i

m ^ :

the ice, or built expressly for that purpose, would eii«
deavor to make their way eastward to Lancaster Sound,
or southward to the main-land, according to the longi-
tude in which the ships were arrested.

"We ought not to judge of the supplies of food that
can be procured in the arctic regions by diligent hunt-
ing, from the quantities that have been actually ob-
tained on the several expeditions that have returnei,
and consequently of the means of preserving life there
When there was abundance in the ships, 3ie address
and energy of the hunting parties was not likely to be
called forth, as they would inevitably be whei) the exis-
tence of the crews depended solely on their personal
efforts, and formed their chief or only object in their
march toward quarters where relief might be looked
for. This remark has reference to the supposition that
on tiie failure of the stock of provisions in the ships,
the crews would, in separate parties under their officers,
seek for succor in several directions.

With an empty stomach, the power of resisting exter-
nal cold is greatly impaired ; but when the process of
digesting is going on vigorously, even with compara-
tively scanty clothing, the Jieat of the body is preserved.
There is in the winter time, in high latitudes, a craving
for fat or oleaginous food, and lor such occasiens the
flesh of seals, walruses, or bears, forms a useful article
of diet. Captain Cook says that the walrus is a sweet
and wholesome article of food. Whales and seals would
also furnish light and fuel. The necessity for increased
food in very cold weather, ib not so great when the
people do not work.

Mr. Gilpin, in his narrative in the Ni.utical Maga-
zine for March, 1850, writes thus : —

** About the 20th of June a small wr.ter bird, calved
the doveky, had become so numerous, and so many
were daily shot by those who troubled themselves to go
after them, that shooting parties from each ship, con-
sisting of an office' and marine, were established a*
Whaler Point, where they romained the whole week,
returmng on board on Saturday night. In a week or

'■'^- 'liU^i ^ i <l' ilJ» *

ABUNDANCE OP ANT^klAL FOOT) MET WITH.

277

go after this the coon, a much heavier hird, became
more plentiful than the little doveky, and from thia
time to the middle of August, so successful and un-
tiring were our sportsmen, that the crew received
each a bird per man a day.

"The account kept on board the Investigator showed
the number of birds killed to have amounted to about
4000, and yielding near2500lbs. of meat. But more
than this was obtained, as many were shot by indi-
viduals for amusement, and not always noted."

Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on
her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 1849,
speaking of landing on one of the Wollaston Islands, on
the west side of Navy Board Inlet, says he disturbed
about half a dozen pairs of eider-duck {Somatcria
mollissirria.) Their eggs he found to be within a few
hours of maturity, lucre were, besides, numerous
m»sts, the occupants of which had probal)ly winged
their way southward. Two brent geese, (^^t«<s?' beriiida)
and a single pair of arctic terns, {Sterna arctica^
were most vociferous and courageous in defence of
their downy offspring wherever he approached. The8(
were the only birds he saw, witli the exception of a
lolitary raven, {Corvus coi^ax^ not very liigh over-
head, whose sharp and yet musically bell-like croak
came startling upon the ear.

Mr. Snow, in his account of the voyage of the Prince
Albert, p. 102, says, (speaking of Melville Bay, at the
northen head of Ballin s Bay,) "Innumerable quanti
ties of birds, especially the little auk, {Alca alle^) aad
the dovoky, {Colymhics gryllcy) were now seen, (Au-
gust 6th,) in every direction. They were to be ob
bC'ved in thousands, on the wing and in the water,
ana often on pieces of ice, where they wore clustered
togetner so thick tiiiit scores might have been shot at
4 t'v e by two or tliree fowling pieces."

Til passing up Lancaster Sound a fortnight later sev-
ijral Bnoai of eider-ducks and large quantities of r>the'
bi ^)& were also ueeu.

S78

I !

I
I)

PKO(VRE88 OP ARCTIC DISOOVEBT.

A BALLAD OF SIR JOHN FRANKL»

** The ice was here, the ice wu there,
The ice was all around." — Colkbumib.

Writhkb sail you, Sir John Franklin T

Cried a whaler in Baflin'a Bay ;
To know if between the land and the Po]0,

I may find a broad sea*way.

I charge you back. Sir John Fnnklin,

A» you would live and thrive.
For between tlie land and the froxen Pole

No man may sail alive.

But lightly laughed the Rtout Sir John,

And spoke unto his men : —
Half England is wrong, if he is right ,

Bear off to westward then.

O, whither sail you, brave Englishman ?

Cried the little Esquimaux.
Between your land and the polar star

My goodly vessels go.

Come down, if you would journey there^

The little Indian said ;
And change your cloth for fur clothing.

Your vessel for a sled.

But lightly laughed the stout Sir John,
And the crew laughed with him too ;

A sailor to change from ship to sled,
I ween, were something new I

All through the long, long polar day,

The vessels westward sped ;
And wherever tho sail of Sir John wa* Moxij^,

The ice gave way and fled.

Gave way with many a hollow groan.

And with many a surly roar;
But it nuirnuirud and threatened on orery udc

And closed where he sailed hofor*.

Hoi see ye not my merry man.

The broad and open sfei ?
Bethink ye what tlie whaler said,
Bethink ye of the little Indian's sled I
The crew laughed out in glee.

Sir John, Sir John, 't is bitter cold,

The scud drives on the breeze.
The ice comes looming from the north.

The very sunbeams freeze.

Bright L^'Mimer goes, dark winter comae—*

We cannot rule the year;
Bat long ere summer's sun goes dowi^

Oi. yonder sea we'll steer.

A BALLAD OF SIR JOHN FRANKI.IN.

2T»

TLe dripping icebergs dipped and roee^

And floundered down the gale ;
The ship were staid, the yards wore m<*nq#4^

And furled Uie useless salL

The Bummer 'b gone, the winter 's oonM^

We Bail not #n yonder sea ;
Why Bail we not. Sir John Franklin t

— A ailent man was he.

The winter goes, the summer oomei^

We cannot rule the year ;
I ween, we cannot rule the waya^

Sir John, wherein we 'd steer.

The cruel ice came floating on.

And closed beneath the lee.
Till the thicketiing waters dashed no 11101%
*Twa8 ice around, behind, before—

H} Qod 1 there is no sea I

What th'nk vou of the whaler now I

What of the Esquimaux ?
A Bled were better than a ship,

To cruise through ice and snow.

Down sank the baleful crimson sun ;

The northern-light came out,
And glared upon the ice-bound Bhip%

And shook its spears about

The snow came down, storm breeding skMW^

And on the decks was laid ;
Till the weary sailor, sick at heart.

Sank down beside his spade.

Sir John, the night is black and lon|^

The hissing wind is bleak ;
The hard, green ice is strong as death :

I prithee, captain, speak.

The night is neither bright nor ihoil^

The singing breeze is cold.
The ice is not so strong as hope^

The heart of man is bold t

What hope can scale this ioy wall.

High o'er the main flag-stafT?
Above the ridges the wolf and b««r
Look down with a patient, settled star«'»

Look down on us and Uugh.

The summer went, the winter eamo—

We could not rule the year ;
But Bumraer will melt the ice agiun,
And open a path to tho sunny main,

Wherx>t aur flhips shall stee^

I ;■*-'

P'l

880 moouKss of arctic discovert.

The winter went, the summer went^

The winter came around ;
But the hard, green ice was strone^ as deat^
And the voice of hope sank to a breath.

Yet caught at every sound.

Hark I heard you not the sound of guna 1
And there, and tliere again ?

•T is some uneasy iceberg's roar.
As he turns in the frozen main.

Hurra ! hurra 1 the Esquimaux

Across the ice-fields steal :
€k)d give them grace fur their charilj I

Ye pray for the silly seal

Sir John, whore are the English field%
And where the English trees,

And where are the liftle English flowers,
That open in the breeze ?

Be still, be still, my brave sailon I
You shall see the fields again,

And smell the scent of the opening flowaoi
The grass, and the waving grain.

Oh I when shall I see my orphan child t

My Mary waits for me ;
Oh 1 when shall I see my old mother,

And pray at her trembling knee f

Be still, be still, my brave sailora !

Think not such thoughts again I
But a tear froze slowly on his cheek —

He thought of Lady Jana

Ah ! bitter, bitter grows the cold.
The ice grows more and more ;

More settled stare the wolf and bear.
More patient than beforeu

Oh 1 think you, good Sir John FranUin^

We '11 ever see the land ?
*T was cniel to send us here to itarrc^

Without a helping hand.

^T was cruel, Sir John, to send us hers^

So far from help or home ;
To starve and freeze on this lonely sea ;
I ween, the Lords of the Admiralty

Had rather send than coma

Oh I whether we starve to death alone^

Or sail to our own country.
We have done what man has never dons —
The open ocean danced in the sim —

We passed the Northern Se^ I

THE SEARCHING EXPEDITIONS.

281

The Government and Private Searchiwo Expeditions
AFTER Sir John Franklin.

The following is a complete list of the several relief
and exploring vessels which have been sent out during
the last two years by the British government, by private
individuals, and by the Amorican nation : —

Coiumandera.

Capt. Collinsoii.
Cora. M'Clure.
Cora. Moore.
Capt. H. Austin.
Capt. E. Ommaney.

Ships. Men

1 II. M. S. Enterprise - - 68

2. H. M. S. Investigator - • 65

3. H. M. S. Plover - - - 62

4. H. M. S. Resolute - - - 68

5. H. M. S. Assistance - • 60

6. H. M. S. Intrepid, (screw

steamer,)

7. II. M. S. Intrepid, (screw

steamer,) ----- - 38

8. The Lady Franklin - - 25

9. The Sophia, (a .tender to

the above,) 22

10. United States brig Ad-

vance ----- 20

11. United States vessel Res-
cue - • - - 18

12. Felix yacht - - -

13. Mary, (tender to the Felix.)

14. The North Star, Master and Commander Saunders.

15. The Prince Albert - - 18 Com. Forsyth.'

Of these vessels the Enterprise, Investigator, and
Plover, are at present engaged on the western branch
of search through Behring's Straits. The rest have all
proceeded through Baffin's Bay to Lancaster Sound, and
the channels branching out frora thence, except the last
two, wliich have returned home.

Voyage of the "Enterprise" and "Investigator"
under Captain Sir James C. Ross, 1848-49.

In the spring of 1848, Captain Sir James C. Ross
was ])laced in command of a well found and fitted ex-
pedition, with means and advantages of unusual extent.

30 Lieut. S. Osborn.

Lieut. Cator.
Mr. Penny.

Mr. Stewart.

Lieut. De Haven.

Mr. S. P. Griffin.
Capt. Sir John Ross.

282

PR00KE8S OF AltOTIO DISOOTEST.

|i ii

iii

and with an object that could not fail to stimulate in
the hiffhest degree the energies and perseverance of all
embarked in it. With the ever present feeling, too, that
the lives of their countrymen and brother sailors de-
pended, (under God's good providence,) upon their
unflinching exertions, Captain Eoss and his followers
went forth in the confident £ope that their efforts might
be crowned with success.

The season was considerably advanced before tie
whole of the arrangements were completed, for it was
not until the 12th or June, 1848, that Captain Ross left
England, having under his charge the Enterprise and
Investigator, with the following officers and crews : —

Enterprise^ 640 tans.

Captain — Sir James 0. Boss.

Lieutenants — R. J. L. M'Olure, P. L. HcCUntocki

and W. H. J. Browne.
Master — W. S. Couldery, (actingj
Surgeon — "W. Robertson, (J) M. ji.
Assistant-Surgeon — H. Matthias.
Clerk — Edward Whitehead.

Total complement, 68,

.Iwoestigator^ 480 tons*
Cftptam — E. J. Bird.
Lieutenants ~-M. G. H. W. Roes, Frederick Robiiuoo

and J. J. Bamavd.
Master — W. Tatham.
Surgeon — Robert Anderson.
Mates — L. J. Moore and S. G. CresBweU.
Second Master — John H. Allard.
Assistant-Surgeon — E. Adams.
Gerk in Charge — James D. Gilpin.
Total complement, 67.

Tlie ships reached the Danish settlement of Upper-
navick, situated on one of the group of Woman's Islands
on the western shore of Baffin's Bay, on the 6th of
July Running tliron^h this intricate archipelago, thev

V01AOK OF ENTERPKISE AND INVl.STlGATOR

283

were made fast, on the 20th, to an iceberg aground off
Cape Shackleton. The ships were towed, during the
next few days, through loose streams of ice, and on the
morning of the 2Gt}i were oft' the three islands of BatHn
in latitude 74° N. Calms and light winds so greatly
impeded any movement in the pack, that day aftei
day passed away until the season had so far advanced
as to preclude every hope of accomplishing much, if
any thing, before the setting in of winter.

No exertions, however, were spared to take advantage
of every opportunity of pushing forward, until, on the
20th of August, during a heavy breeze from the north-
east, the ships under all sail bored through a pack of ice
of but moderate thickness, but having among it lieavy
masses, througli which it was necessary to dri?e them at
aH hazards. The shocks the ships sustained during this
severe trial were great, but fortunately without serious
damage to them. Getting into clear water in lat. 75 h N.,
and long. 68° "W., on the 23d the ships stood in to
Pond's Bay, but no traces of Esquimaux or other human
beings were discovered, although signals were made and
guns fired at repeated intervals. TThe ships were kept
close to the land, and a rigid examination made of the
coast to the northward, so that neither people nor boats
could have passed without being seen. On the 26th
the ships arrived oft* Possession Bay, and a party was
sent on shore to search for &ny traces of the expedition
having touched at this general point of rendezvous.
Nothing was found but the paper left there recording
the visit of Sir Edward Parry, on the very day (August
80th) in 1819. From this point the examination of the
coast was continued with equal care. On the Ist of
September they arrived off' Cape York, and a boat's
crew was sent on shore, to fix a conspicuous mark, and
leave information for the guidance of any ftiture party
that might touch here.

I shaD now take ^/p the narrative in Sir James Ross's

own words — " We ^^tood over toward northeast cape

until we came in v^Vh the edge of a pack, too dense for

us to penetrate, lying between us and JiCopold Island,

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(716) 872-4503

^64

PROGRESS OF AROTIO DISCOVERY.

9' 'fi'^
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about fourteen miles broad ; we therefore coasted the
north shore of Barrow's Strait, to seek a harbor further
to the westward, and to examine the numerous inlets of
that shore. Maxwell Bay, and several smaller indenta-
tions, were thoroughly explored, and, although we got
near the entrance of Wellmgton Channel, the firm bar-
rier of ice which stretched across -it, and which had not
broken away this season, convinced us all was imprac-
ticable in that direction. We now stood to the south-
west to seek for a harbor near Cape Bennell, but found
a heavy body of ice extending from the west of Com-
wallis island in a compact mL3S to Leopold Island.
Coasting along the pack during stormy and foggy
weather, we had difiiculty in keeping the ships free
during the nights, for I believe so great a quantity of ice
was never betore seen in Barrow's Sti'ait at this period
of the season."

Fortunately, after some days of anxious and arduous
work, the ships were ffot through the pack, and secured
in the harbor of Port Leopold on the 11th of September.
No situation could be better adaj)ted for the purpose
than this locality ; being at the junction of tne four

freat channels of Barrow's Strait, Lancaster Sound,
*rince Regent Lilet, and "Wellington Channel, it was
hardly possible for any party, after abandoning their
ships, to pass alone the shores of any of those inlets,
without nnding indications of the proidmity of these
■hips.

The night following the very day of the ships' getting
in, the main pack closed with the land, and completely
sealed the mouth of the harbor. The long winter was
passed in exploring and surveying journeys along the
coasts in all airections. During the winter as many as
fifty white foxes were taken alive, in traps made of
empty casks set for the purpose. As it was well known
how large a tract of country these animals traverse in
search of food, copper collars, (upon which a notice of
the position of the ships and depots of provisions was
engraved,) were clinched round their necks, and they
were then set free, in the hope that some of these fo^^

•""^tl

TOTAOB OF BNTEBPBISE AND INVE8TIUAT0B.

285

footea messengers might be the means of conveying the
intelligence to the Erebus and Terror, as the crews of
those vessels would naturally be eager for their capture.
Tiio months of April and May were occupied by Capt.
Ross, Lieut. McCIintock, and a party of twelve men, in
examining and thoroughly exploring all the inlets and
smaller indentations of the northern and western coasts
uf Boothia peninsula, in which any ships might have
found shelter.

From the high land in the neighborhood of Cape
Bunny, Capt. Ross obtained a very extensive view, and
t>hserved that the whole space between it and Cape
Walker' to the west, and Wellington Strait to the north,
was occupied by very heavy hummocky ice.

"The examination of the coast," Sir James lloss tells
us, " was pursued until the 5th of June, when, having
consumed more than half our provisions, and the strength
o\' the party being much reduced, I was reluctantly
compelled to abandon further operations, as it was,
moreover, necessary to give the men a day of rest.
But that the time might not wholly be lost, I proceeded
with two hands to the extreme south point in sight from
our encampment, distant about eight or nine miles."

This extreme point is situate in lat. 72° 38' N., and
long. 95° 40' W., and is the west face of a small high
peninsula. The state of the atmosphere being at tlie
time peculiarly favorable for distinctness of vision, land
of any great elevation mi^ht have been seen at the dis-
lance oi 100 miles. The niffhest cape of the coast was
not more than fifty miles distant, bearing nearly due
south. A very narrow isthmus was found to separate
Prince Regent Inlet from the western sea at Cress well
and Brentford Bays. The ice it this quarter proved to
be eight feet thick. A large cairn of stones was erected,
and on the 6th of June, the .'•eturn journey was com-
menced. After encountering a variety of difficulties
thoy reached the ships on the 23d, so completely worn
out by fatigue, that every man was, from some cause or
other, in tne doctor's hands for two or three weeks.
During their absence, Mr Matthias, the assist anlrsurgeon

986

PBOOBB88 OF ABOTIO DI8C0VEBT.

I ■ i,!*.

of the Enterprise, had died of coiisnmption. Several of
the crews of both ships were in a declining state, and
thegeneral report of health was bv no means cheeiing.
While Captain Ross was awa^, Commander Bird
had dispatched ot'ier surveying parties in different di-
rections. One, under the command of Lieutenant Bar
nard, to the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, crossing
the ice to Cape Hind; a second, commanded by Lieu-
tenant Browne, to the eastern shore of Regent Inlet ;
and a third party of six men, conducted by Lieutenant
Robinson, along the western shore of the Inlet. The
latter officer extended his examination of the coast as
far as Cresswell Bay, several miles to the southward
of Fury Beach. He found the house still standing in
which Sir John Ross passed the winters of 1832-33,
together with a quantity of the stores and provisions
of the Fury, lost there in 1827. On opening some of
the packages coiitaining flour, sugar and peas, they
were all found to be in excellent preservation, and the

f>reserved soup as good as when manufactured. The
abors of these searching parties were, however, of
comparatively short duration, as thev all suffered from
snow-blindness, sprained ankles, and debility.

As it was now but too evident, from no traces of the
ahflerit expedition having been met with by any of
these ])artics, that the ships could not have been de-
tained anywhere in this part of the arctic regions,
Captain Ross considered it most desirable to push for-
ward to the westward as soon as his ships should be lib-
crated. His chief hopes now centered in the efforts of
Sir John Richardson's party; but he felt persuaded
that S:,' John Franklin's ships must have penetrated
so far beyond Melville Island as to induce him to prefer
making for the continent of America rather than seek-
ing assistance from tlie whale shipe in Baffin's Bay.
The crews, weakened by incessant exertion, were now
very unfit state to undertake the heavy labor

m a

which they had yet to accomplish, but all hands that
were able were set to work with sawe to cut a channel
toward the point of the harbor* a distance of lathei

TOTAOE OF ENTERPKISB AND INYESTIOATOS. 287

jgiona,
ish for-
be lib-
forts of
maded
»trated
prefer
U seek-

Bay.
re now

labor
Is that
liannel

athei

more than two miles, and on the 28th of Augnat the
ships got clear, ^-^fore uuittinff the port, a house was
built of the spare bpars oi both iHiips, and covered with
such of the housing cloths as could be dispensed with.
Twelve months' provisions, fuel, and other necessaries
were also left behind, together with the steam launch
belonging to the Investigator, which, having been pur-
posely lengthened seven feet, now formed a fine vessel,
capable ofconvevinff the whole of Sir John Frauklin^s
party to the whale ships, if necessary.

The Investigator and Enterprise now proceeded
toward the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, for the
purpose of examining Wellington Channel, and, if pos-
sible, penotratinff as far as Melville Island, but when
about twelve mues from the shore, the ships came to
the fixed land-ice, and found it impossible to proceed.

On the 1st of September a strong wind suddenly
arising, brought the loose pack, through which they
had been struggling, down upon the ships, which were
closely beset. At times, during two or three days,
they sustained severe pressure, and ridges of hum-
mocks were thrown up all around ; but after that time
the temperature falling to near zero, it formed the
whole body of ice into one solid mass.

The remainder of the narrative, as related by the
Commander of the expedition in his official dispatch,
will not bear abridgment.

'^ We were so circumstanced that for some days we
could not unship the rudder, and when, by the labori«
ous operation of sawing and removing the hummocks
from under the stern, we were able to do so, we found
it twisted and damaged ; and the ship was so much
strained, as to increase the leakage from three inches
in a fortnight to fourteen inches daily. The ice was
stationary K)r a few days ; the pressure had so folded
the lighter pieces over each other and they were so
interlaced, as to form one entire sheet, extending from
shore to shore of Barrow's Strait, and as far to the east
and west as the eye could discern from the mast-head,
while the exts-emo severity of the temperature had

-■it.

288

PUOGKSSS OF AUOl'lO DlttOOVKUX.

cemented the whole so firmly together that it appeared!
Iiighly improbable that it could break up again this
suason. In the space which had been cleared away
for unshipping the rudder, the newly-formed ice was
fifteen inches thick, and in some places along the ship's
lide the thirteen-feet screws were too short to work.
We had now fully made up our minds that the ships
were fixed for the winter, and dismal as the prospect
appeared, it was far preferable to being carried along
the west coast of Baffin's Bay, where the grounded
bergs are in such numbers upon the shallow banks off
that shore, as to render it next to impossible fbr ships
involved in a pack to escape destruction. It was,
therefore, with a mixture of hope and anxiety that, on
the wind shifting to the westward, we perceived the
whole body of ice begin to drive to the eastward, at the
rate of eight to ten miles daily. Every efibrt on our
pnrt was totally unavailing, for no human power could
liave moved either of the ships a single inch ; they were
thus completely taken out oi our own hands, and in the
center of a field of ice more than fifty miles in circum-
ference, were carried along the southern shore of
Lancaster Sound.

" After passing its entrance, the ice drifted in a more
southerly airection , along the western shore of Baffin's
Bay, until we were abreast of Pond's Bav, to the south-
ward of which we observed a great number of icebergs
stretching across our path, and presenting the fearml
prospect of our worst anticipations. But when least
expected by us, our release was almost miraculously
brought about. The great field of ice was rent into
innumerable, fragbients, as if by some unseen power."

By energetic exertion, warping, and sailing, the ships
got clear of the pack, and reached an open space of
water on the 25th of September.

'^ It is impossible," says Captain Ross, in his con
eluding observations, " to convey any idea of the sen
sation we experienced when we found ourselves onc€
more at liberty, while many a grateful heart poured
forth its praises and thanksgivings to A-lm^ghty God
for this ui looked for deliverance."

VOTAOU or KNTKKPRI8K AND INVK6TIOATOR. 280

"The advance of winter had now closed all the har-
bors against us ; and as it was impossible to penetrate
to the westward through the pack from which we had
just been liberated, I made the signal to tli^ Investi-
gator of my intention to return to England."

After a favorable passage, the ships arrived home
early in November, Captain Sir J. C. Ross reporting
himself at the Admiralty on the 5th of November.

As this is the last arctic voyage of Sir James 0. Koss,
it is a fitting place for some record of his arduous
services.

Captain Sir James Clarke Ross entered the navy in
1812, and served as volunteer of the first class, mid-
shipman and mate until 1817, with his uncle Com-
mander Ross. In 1818 he was appointed Admiralty
midshipi an in the Isabella, on Commander Ross's first
voyage oi discovery to tue arctic seas. He was then
midshipman in the two following years with Captain
Parry, in the Hecla ; followed him again in the Furv
in his second voyage, and was promoted on the 26th
of December, 1822. In 1824 and 1825, he was lieu-
tenant in the Fury, under Captain Iloppner, on Parry's
third voyage. In 1827, he was appointed first lieuten-
ant of the Tlecla, under Parry, and accompanied him
in command of the second boat in his attempt to reach
the North Pole. On his return he received his promo-
tion to tlie rank of commander, the 8th of November,
1827. From 1829 to 1833, he was employed with his
uncle as second in command in the Victory on the pri-
vate expedition sent out by Mr. Felix Booth. Dm ing
this period he planted, on the Ist of June, 1831, the
British flag on tne North Magnetic Pole. For this, on
his return, ho was presented by the Herald's College
Mrith an add lion to nis family arms of an especial crest,
representing a flag-staff erect on a rock, with the union
jack hoisted thereon, inscribed with the date, ^^ 1 June,
1831." On ( le 23d of October, 1834, he was promoted
to the rank < f Captain, and in the following year em-
ployed in making magnetic observations, preparatory
to the gene^^ magnetic survey of England. In the

- ."[

! i

290

P210OBU6S OF ABCrriO DISOOYBUT.

close of 1836, it having been represented to the Ad
miralty, from Hull, that eleven wnale shine, having on
board 600 men, were left in the ice in Davis' Strait,
and in imminent danger of perishing, unless relief wore
forwarded to them, the Lords Commissioners resolved
upon sending out a ship to search tor them. Captain
ICoss, with that promptitude and humanity which has
always characterised nim, volunteered to go out in the
depth of winter, and the Lieutenants, F. R. M. Crozier,
Inman, and Ommaney, with the three mates, Jesse,
Buchau, and John Smith, and Mr. Hallett, clerk in
charge, joined him. They sailed from England on the
2l8t of December, and on arriving in Davis^Strait, after
a stormy passage, found that nine of the missing ships
were by that time in England, that the tenth was re-
leased on her passage, and that the other was in all
probability lost, as some of her water-casks had been
picked up at sea. From 1837 to 1838, Captain Eoss
was employed in determining the variation of the com-

Eass on all parts of the coast of Great Britain ; and
'om 1839 to 1843, as Captain of the Erebus, in com-
mand of the antarctic expedition. In 1841, he was
presented with the founder's medal of the Eoyal Geo-
graphical Society of London, for his discoveries toward
the South Pole ; and he has also received the gold
medal of the Geographical Society of Paris. On the
13th of March, 1844, he received the honor of knight-
hood from the Queen, and in June of the same year
the University of Oxford bestowed on him their honor-
ary degree of D. C. L. Li 1848, he went out, as we
have just seen, in the Enterprise, in Command of one
of the searching expeditions sent to seek for Franklin.

YOTAOB OF BL M. S. "NOBTH StAB.*'

The North Star, of 500 tons, was fitted out in the
spring of 1849, under the command of Mr. J. Saunders,
who had been acting master with Captain Back, in the
Terror, in her perilous voyage to the Frozen Strait, in
1836

TOTAOB OF THE HOKTU BTAB.

S<^1

The following are the officers of the ships :—

Master Commanding — J. Saunders.

Second Masters — John Way, M. Norman, H. B.

^awler.
Acting Ice-ma8toi*8 — J. Leach, and G. Sabestor.
Assistant Surgeon — James Rae, M. D.
Clerk in Cliarge — Jasper Rutter.

The Nortli Star sailed from the river Thames, on the
26tli of May, 1849, freighted with provisions for th©
missinpj expedition, and with orders and supplies for
the tlnterprise and Investigator.

The following is one of the early dispatches from the
commander :—

" To the Secretary of the Admiralty.

" II. M. S. North Star, July 19, 1849,
lat. 74° 3' iT., long. 69° 40' TT.

'' Sir, — I addressed a letter to their Lordships on the
18th ult, wlien in lat. 73° 30' N.,and long. 56"' 53' W.,
detailing the particulars of my proceedings up to tlial
date, which letter was sent by a boat from the Lady
Jane, whaler, which vessel was wrecked, and those boats
were proceeding to the Danish settlements. Since tlien,
( regret to state, our progress has been almost entirely
itopped, owing to the ice being so placed across Mel-
rille Bay as to render it perfectly impassable.

" On the 6th inst, finding it impossible to make anv
progress, I deemed it advisable to run as far S. as 72 ,
examining the pack as we went along. At 72° 22' the
pack appeared slacker, and we entered it, and, after
proceeding about twelve miles, found ourselves com-
pletely stopped by large floes of ice. We accordingly
put back, and steeied again ior the northward.

" Having this day reached the latitude of 74° 3' N.,
in J long. 69° 40 W., the ice appeared more open, and
we stood in toward the land, when we observed two
boats approaching, and which afterward, on coming
ilongside, were found to belong to the Prince of Wales,
A'lialer, wliich vessel was nipped by the ice on the 12tb
nst., in Melville Bay.

292

rttOOIlESS OF Altcnc mriCOVKRT.

pn :

" By the captain of tlie Prince of Wales I forward
this letter to tueir LordBhi|)s, he intending to proceed
io his boats to the Danish settlements.
" 1 have the honor to be, &c.

^* J. SAUNDmts, Master and Oommandor.
" P. S.— Crew all well on board."

On the 29th of July, having reached the » icinity of
the Devil's Thumb and MelvUle Bay, in the northerly
part of Baffin's Bav, she was beset in an ice-field, with
which she drifted helplessly about as the tide or wind
impelled her, until the 16th of August, when, a slight
opening in the ice appearing, an effort was made to
heave Wirougli into clear water. This proved labor in
vain, and no further move was made until the 21st of
September, except as she drifted in the ice floe in which
she was fixed. On the day last named she was driving
before a hard gale from the S. S. W., directly down upon
an enormous iceberg in Melville Sound, upon which iJ
she had struck in the then prevailing weatner, her total
destructio >uld have been inevitable. Providen-
tially a c^ of the ice-field in which she was being
carried furiously along came into violent collision with
the berg, a large section was carried away, and she
escaped. On the 29th of September, 1849, having been
sixty-two days in the ice, she took up her winter quar-
ters in North Star Bay, so called after herself, a small
bay in "Wolstenholme Sound, lying in 76° 33' north lat-
itude, and 68° 56' west longitude ; the farthest point to
the north at which a British ship ^ver wintered. The
ship was fixed about half a mile irom the shore, and
made snug for the winter, sails were unbent, the masts
struck, and the ship housed over and made as warm
and comfortable as circumstances would permit. The
ice soon after took across the Sound, so that the crew
could have walked on shore. The cold was intense ;
but two or three stoves warmed f he ship, and the crews
were cheered up and encouraged with all sorts of games
and amusements, occasionally visiting the shore ror the
purpose of skylarking. There was, unfortunately, but
little game to shoot Former accounts gave this pb % *

TOYAOB OF I'lIE NOUTH STAB.

993

a high character for door and other animals ; but the
crew of the North Star never saw a single head of deer,
and other animals were scarce ; about fifty hares were
killed. Foxes were numerous, and a number shot, but
none taken alive. A few Esquimaux families occasion-
ally visited the ship, and one poor man was brought on
board with his feet so frozen that they dropped. Uo
was placed under tlie care of the assistant-surgeon, Dr.
Rao, who paid him mucli attention, and his legs . -aO
nearly cured ; but he died from a pulmonary disorder
after iiaving been on boaid some six weeks. The North
Star was not able to leave this retreat until the 1st of
August, 1850, and got into clear water on the third, of
that month. On tlie 2l8t of August, she spoke th<
Lady Franklin, Captain Penny, and her consort tl
Sophia, and the following day the Felix, Sir John Ros?
iu Lancaster Sound. Captain Penny reported that h
had left Captain Austin all well on tne 17th of August.
On the 23d of August, the North Star began landing
the provisions she nad carried out in Navy Board In
let ; 73° 44' N. latitude, 80° 66' W. longitude. Sh<
remained five days there, and was occupied four and a
half in landing the stores, which were deposited in a
ravine a short distance from the beach of Supply Bay,
the bight in *Navy Board Inlet, which the commander
of the North Star so named. The position of the stores
was indicated by a flag-staff, with a black ball, and a
letter placed beneath a cairn of stones. They had pre-
viously tried to deposit the stores at Port Bowen, and
Port Neale, but were prevented approaching them by
the ice. On the 30th of August, the North Star saw
and spoke the schooner Prince Albert, Commander
Forsyth, in Possession Bay. On the 3l8t, a boat was
sent to the Prince Albert, when Commander Forsyth
came on board and reported that he had also been to
Port Neale, btit had not been able to enter for the ice,
and had found one of the American ships sent out to
search for Sir John Franklin ashore in Barrow's Strait,
that he had tendered assistance, which had been de-
clined by the American commander, as, his ship being

PB00KRS8 OF AUCI'W DISCOVERT.

nninjnrod, ho believe<i his own crew cornpctont to get
Uor uft' Commander ForHvth reported that Captiiin
Austin had proceeded to Pond's iJay in the Intrepid,
tender to the Assistance, to land lettera. Tliu Nortii
Star wont on to Pond's Bay, bnt conld not find any iii
dication of Captain Austin's having been there. It is
conjectured that he had passed the appointed spot in a
fog. The North Star's people suftcred much from the
intense cold, but only lost live ;\ands during her peril-
ous trip and arctic winter quarters. She left there on
September 9th, and reached Spithead on the 28th of
September, 1860. Since his return Mr. Saunders has
been appointed Master Attendant of the Dock-yard at
^alta. The Admiralty have received dispatches from
Captain Sir J. Ross, Captain Penny, and Captain Om-
maney. Captain OmmaTur , in the Assistance, dating
from off Lancaster Sound, latitude 75^ 46' N., longi-
tude 76** 49' W., states that some Esquimaux had de-
scribed to him a ohip being h railed in during the last
winter, and, on going to the spot, ho found, from some
papers left, that it was the North Star. He was pro-
ceeding to search in Lancaster Sound. Captain Penny,
of the Lady Franklin, writing from Lancaster Sound,
August 21, states, that having heard on. the 18th from
Captain Austin of a report from the Esquimaux, that
Sir John Franklin's ships had been lost forty miles
north, and the crews murdered, he went with an inter-
preter, but could find no evidence for the rumor, and
came to the conclusion that the whole story had been
founded on the North Star's wintering there. He con-
sidered that his interpreter, M. Petersen, had done much
good by exposing the fallacy* of the story of Sir J
Ross's Esquimaux.

Hkb Majb3tt*8 Ships "Entekpbisb" akd "hniBBTiOA
tor" under Caitain Colunbon.

The Enterprise and Investigator were fitted out agair
hnined lately on their return Iiomo, and placed unde»
khe charge of Captain B. Collinson, C. I>., with the fcJ

BKCOND TRIP OF EMTRRPRHV AND QITaBTIOATOB. 295

lowing ofiicor8 attached, to proceed to Behriiig*B Strait,
to rugume the Boaix:h in that direction : —

Enterprise^ 340 tona.
Captain -^^ ColUnson.
Lieutenants — G. A. Phayre,* J. J. Barnard,* and

C. T. Jngo.
Master — U. T. G. Legg.
Second Master — Francis Skead.
Mate — M. T. Parl<s.
Surgeon — Robert Anderson.*
AsBistant-Siirgcon — Edward Adams.*
Clerk in Charge — Edward Whitehead.*
Total complement, 66.

Investigator.

CommanJcjr — R. J. M'Clure.*
Lieutenants — W. H. Ilaswell and S. G. CresswelL*
Mates — H. H. Saintsbury and R J. Wyniatt
Second Master — Stephen Court.*
Surgeon — Alexander jVrmstrong, H. D.
Afisistant-Surgeon — Hy. Piers.
Cl«rk in Charge — Josei*h C. Paine.
Total comj'lement, 66.

Those officers marked '^tL a star had been with the
ships in their last voyaee.

These vessels sailed trom Plymouth on the 20th of
January, 1850. A Mr. Micrtsching, a Moravian mis
fiionary, was appointed to tho Enterprise, as interpreter.
This gentleman is in the prime of life, of robust health,
inured, by a service of hve yeara in Labrador, to the
hardships and privations of the arctic regions, and suffi-
ciently acquainted with the language and manners of
the Esquimaux to be able to ]iold friendly and unre-
searved intercourse with them.

The Investigator and the Enterprise were at tlie
Sandwich Islands on June 29th. Captain Collinson
purposed mailing in a few days, and'expected to reach
the ice about the 8Ui of July. Prior to his arrival,

1 1 1'

i' 1 1

iiti:;'

I'llV

li&j

'IS

296

PBOORBBB Of A£CrnO DISCOVERT

numerous whalers bad 8tai*ted for the Strait, one in par
ticular, under the command of a Captain Hoys, witb
the expressed intention of endeavoring to earn the
Franklm reward.

These vessels are intended to penetrate, if possible, to
the western extremity of Melville Island, there to winter,
pnd make further search, in the spring of 1851, for tho
crews of the lost ships.

In a letter from Captain CoUinson to Commander Mc
Clure, dated Oahu, June 29th, 1850, with a sight of
which I have been favored at the Admiralty, he thus
describes his intentions — "I intend making the pack
close to the American shore, and availing myself of the
first favorable opening weat of the coast stream ; pressing
forward toward Melville Island. In the event of meet-
ing land, it is most probable that I would pursue the
southern shore."

The latest letter received from Commander McClure
IS dated Kotzebue Sound, July 27th, 1850, and the
following is an extract : —

" You will bo glad to learn that to this we have been
highly favored, carrying a fair wind from Whoa, wliich
place we left on the 4th. "We passed the Aleutian
Islands on the 20th, in 172° 30' W., and got fairly
through the Straits to-day, and we consider we are upon
our ground ; the only detriment has been very dense
fogs, which have renuered the navigation of the islands
exceedingly nervous work ; but as the object to be
achieved is of so important a nature, all hazards must
bo run to carry out the intentions of those at home,
which have very fortunately terminated without acci-
dent. We are now niaking the most of our wind, and
we kope to meet an American whaler, of which I be-
lieve tnere are a great number fishing this season, and
to whom we must intrust our last dispatches. Sincerely
do I truat that, ere we return, some tidings of poor Sii
John and his noble companions may reward our search ;
which will render the long-sought for passage, should
it be our fortune to make it, one of the most memorable
in the annals of our times, and relieve many an anxious
breadt"

8B0OND TBU' OF ENTEBPBI8E AHJj INVE8TI0ATOU. 297

Dispatches have been received at the Admiralty frow
Captain Kellet, C. B., of her Majesty's ship Iieridd
dated at sea, the 14th of October, 1850, on nia return
from Behrin^'s Strait. The Herald had communicated
with her Majesty's ship Plover, on the 10th of July, at
Cbamisso Island, where the Plover had passed the pre-
ceding winter. The two ships proceeded to the north
ward until they sighted the pack-ice, when the Herald
returned to Cape Lisburne, in quest of Captain Collin-
eon's expedition, and on the Slst fell in with Her Maj-
esty's ship Investigator, which had made a surprisingly
sliort passage of twenty-six days from the SandwicL
Islands. The Herald remained cruising off Cape Lis-
burne, and again fell in with the Plover on the 13th of
A.ugust, on her return from Point Barrow, Commandei
Muore liaving coasted in his boats, and minutely exam-
ined the several inlets as far as that point from Icy Cape
without gaining my intelligence of the missing expeai--
tion. Commander Moore and his boat's crew haa suf-
fered severely from exposure to cold. Captain Kellet,
having fully victualed the Plover, ordered her to winter
la Gruntley Harbor (her former anchorage at Chamisso
Ishmd not being considered safe,) and tl en returned to
tiie southward on his way to Englan(?

Dispatches have also been received from Captain Col
linson, C. B., of her Majesty's ship Enterprise, and
Commander M'Clure, of her Majesty's ship Investigator
of which the following are copies : —

' ' rprise:

«* ffer Majesty's SfiMf ^E
"Po7< Ularenoe^ Sept. 13,1860.

"Sir, — I have the honor to transmit an account of
the proceediUf^ of her Majestyr's ship under my com
tnand since leaving Oahu on the 30th of June.

"Being delayed by light wijds, we only reached the
western end of the Aleutian Chain by the 29th of July,
and made the Island of St. Lawrence on the 11th ol
A.ugu8t, from whence I Bhape.J a course for Cape Lis
burne. in anticipation of falliug in with the Herald or

I"
f .,■■;

■^w i ■

2»8

PR<)ORE88 OP AROnO DISOOVKXT.

the Plover. Not, however, eeeixiff either of these ves-
eels, and finding nothing deposited on shore, I went on
to "ViTainwright Inlet, the last rendezvous appointed.
Here we communicated on the 15th, and bemg alike
unsuccessful in obtaining any infonration, I stood tc
the norths made the ice following morning, and reached
the latitude 72<» 40' N. in the meridian of 159° 30' W.,
without serious obstruction. Here, he wever, the pack
became «o close that it was impossible f o make way in
any direction except to the southward. Having exfcrf-
cated ourselves by noon on the 19th, \i e continued to
coast along the eage of the main body, which took a
southeasterly trend, running through the loose streams.,
so as not to lose sight of tignt pack. A.t 4 a. m. on the
?Otl; we were in the meridian of Point Barrow, and
twenty-eight miles to the north of it, when W9 foun<^
.open water to the N. E., in which we sailed, without
losing sight of the ice to the north until the morning
of the 21st, when we were obstructed by a heavy bai^
rier trending to the outhwest. A thick fog coming on,
we made a board to the north, in order to teel the pack
edge in the upper part of the bight, and not to leav<»
any part unex^ *orea. Having satisiied myself that no
opening existea ..i this direction, wo bore away to th(*
south, running through heavy floes closely packed, and
pushing to the eastward when an opportunity offered-
In this, however, we were unsuccessful, being com-
pelled to pursue a westerly course, the floes being vei/
heavy and humraocky. By 8 p. m. we were withip
thirty milea of the land, and having clear weather
could see the ice closely packed to the south that le5
no doubt ir my mind that a stop was put to our pro-
ceeding in this direction, by the ice butting so close or
the shoal coast as to leave no chance that our progresp
along it would justify the attempt to reach Cape Bath-
nrst, a distance of 570 miles, during the remaining
portion of this season; and finding Uiis opinion was
coincided in by those oflScers on board qualified to
form an opinion on the subject, I determiu^d to lose
no time in communicating with Point Barrow, but to

neooND TBir OP enterphise Aim (KTSstioatob. 299

attempt the passage further north, in hopes that the
lane of water seen laat year hy the Herala and Plover
would afford me an opening to the eastward. I there*
fore reluctantly prooeeded -again to the west, and turn-
ing the pack edge fifteen miles further to the south
than it was on the day after we left Wainwright Inlet,
we followed the edge of a loose pack greatly broken
up, until we reached 163° "W". long", when it took a
sudden turn to the north, in which direction we fol-
lowed it until the morning of the 27th, when we were
in latitude 73° 20', and found the pack to the westward
trending southerly. I therefore plied to the eastward,
endeavoring to make way, but such was its close con-
dition that we could not work, although we might have
warped through, had the condition of the ice in that
direction afforded us any hope ; but this, I am sorry to
say, was not the case, and, on the contrary, the further
we entered, the larger the floes became, leaving us, in
thick weather, often in great difficulty where to find a
lane. On the 29th the thermometer having fallen to
28°, and there being no prospect of our being able to
accomplish any thing toward the fulfillment of their
Loi'dships' instructions this season, I bore away ft>r
Point Hope, where I arrived on the 81«t, and found a
bottle deposited by the Herald, which infoi'med me
that it was intended to place the Plover in Grantley
Harbor this season. I accordingly proceeded thither,
with the view of taking her place for the winter, and
enabling Commander Moore to recruit his ship's com-
pany by going to the southward. On my arrival I
found her inside, preparing her winter quarters, and
having examined and buoyed the bar, I attempted to
take this vessel inside, but failed in doing so, owing
to the change of wind from south to north having re-
duced the depth of water four feet, and had to relieve
the ship of 100 tons, which was <juickly done by th«
opportune arrival of the Herald, before she was re-
leased from a very critical position. The tides being
irregular, the rise and fiill depending principally on
the wind, and that, wind which occasions the higheat

1» M

.■•i<l»ia;:

li', '

k 1

i! \(

800

PBOOBESS OF ABCrno DISOCTSBI.

water producing a swell on the bar, it became a qnes*
tion wnether a considerable portion of the ensuinff
season misht not be lost in getting the ship out of
Grantley Harbor ; and on consulting Captains Kellet
and Moore, finding it to be their opinion, founded on
the experience of two years, that tue whalers • coming
from the south pass through the Strait early in June,
whereas the harbors are blocked until the middle of
July, I have come to the conclusion that I shall better
perform the important duty confided in me by return-
ing to the south, and replenishing my provisions, in-
stead of wintering on the Asiatic Shore, where there
is not a prospect of our being of the slightest use to
the missing expedition. It is therefore my intention
to proceed to Hong Kong, it being nearer than Valpa-
raiso, and t^e cold season having set in, my stores and
provisions will not be exposed to the heat of a double
passage through the tropics ; and as I shall not leave
until the 1st of April, 1 may receive any further in-
structions their Lordships may please to communicate.

"The Plover has been stored and provisioned, and
such of her crew as are not in a fit state to contend
with the rigor of a further stay in these latitudes have
been removed, and replaced by Captain Kellet, and the
paragraphs referring to her in my instructions fulfilled,

"1 have directed Commander Moore to communi-
cate annually with an Island in St. Lawrence Bay, in
latitude 66° 38' N., and longitude 170** 43' W., which
is much resorted to by the whalers, and where any
communication their Lordships may be pleased to send
may be deposited by them, as they are not in the
habit of cruising on this side of the Strait ; and I have
requested Captain Kellet to forward to the Admiralty
all the information on this head he may obtain at the
Sandwich Islands.

" It is my intention to proceed a^ain to the north,
and remain in the most eligible position for afibrding
assistance to the Investigator, which vessel, having
been favored with a surprising passage from the San£
wich Inlands, was fallen in with by the Herald on the

SBOOND TRIP OF ENTEBPfClSE AND IN V ESTlva aTOR. 30 1

8j fit of July, off Point Hope, and again on thQ Sth of
August, by the Plover, in latitude TO** 44' N., and lon-
gitude 159® 52' W., when she was standing to the north
under a press of sail, and in all probability reached
the vicinity of Point Barrow, fifteen days previous to
the Enterprise, when Captain M'Clure, having the
wliole season before him, and animated with the de
termination so vividly expressed in his letter to Cap
tain Kellett, has most likely taken the inshore route,
and I hope before this period reached Capo Bathurst ;
but as he will })e exposed to the imminent risk of being
forced on a shoal shore and compelled to take to his
boats, I shall not forsake the coast to the northward
of Point Hope until the season is so far advanced as
to insure their having taken up their winter quarters
for this season.

"I have received from my officers and ship's com-
pany that assistance and alacrity in the pemrmance
of their duty, which the noble cause in which we are
engaged must excite, and I have the satisfaction to re-
port that (under the blessing of God) owing to the
means their Lordships have supplied in extra clothing
and provisions, we are at present without a ma-u. on
the sick list, notwithstanding the lengthened period of
our voyage.

"I have, &c.,

KioHABD CoLLiNBon, Captain.

"The Secretary of the Admiralty.*'

^Her Majesty^a Discovery ship ^Investigator^ at sea^
latitude 61° 26' iT., longitude 172° 35' F., July 20.

Sir, — As I have received instructions from Captain
Collinson, C. B., clear and unembarrassing, (a copy of
which I inclose,) to proceed to Cape Lisburne in the
hope of meeting him in that vicinity, as he anticipates
being detained a day or two by the Plover in Kotzelme
Soimd, it is unnecessary to add that every exertion shall
be made to reach that rendezvous, but can scarce ven
ture to hope that even under very favorable circum

U 1

f .

I- I

I
I

Pi I'

50*2

PBOOBEBS OF ABCTIO DISOOVEB?.

stan-ces I shall be so fortunate as to accomplisa it ere
the Enterprise will have rounded that cape, from her
superior sailing*, she hitherto having beaten us by ei^ht
days to Cape Virsins, and from Magellan Strait to O&u
six. It is, therefere, under the probable case that this
vessel may form a detached part of the expedition that
I feel it my duty to state, tor the information of the
Ijords Commissioners of the Admiraltv, the course
which, urder such a contingency, I shall endeavor to
pursue, and have to request that you will lay the same
before their Lordships.

" 1. After passing Cape Lisbume, it is my intention
to keep, in the open water, which, from the different
reports that I have read, appears about this season of
the year to make between the American coast and the
main pack as far to the northward as the 130th meridian,
nnless a fevorable opening should earlier appear in the
ice; which would lead me to infer that I might push
more directly for Banks' Land, which I think is ot the
ntmost importance to thoroughly examine. In the event
of thus far succeeding, and the season continuing favor-
able for further operations, it would be my anxious
desii*© to get to the northward of Melville Ishmd, and
resume our search along its shores and the islands adja-
cent as long as the navigation can be carried on, and
then secure for the winter in the most eligible position
which offers.

" 2. In the ensuing spring, as soon as it is practicable
for traveling parties to start, T Rhould dispatch as many
as the state of the crew will admit of in diiferent direc-
tions, each being provided with forty days' provisions,
with directions to examine minutely all bays, inlets and
islands toward the northeast, ascending occasioi'ally
some of the highest points of land, so as to btj enablca
to obtaia extended views, being particularly cautious in
t!ieir advance to observe any indication of a break up in
the ice, so that their return to the ship may be effected
without hazard, even before the expenditure of theii
provisions would otherwise render it necessary.

** 3. Supposing; the parties to have retumetJ without

SECOND TRIP OF ENTEKFRiSB AND INYESTIOA'TOB. 303

obtaining any clue of the absent ships, and the vesBel
liberated about the 1st of August, my object would then
be to push on toward Wellington Inlet, assuming that
that cnannel communicates with the Polar Sea, and
search both its shores, unless in doing so some indication
should be met with to show that parties from any of
Captain Austin's vessels had previously done so, when
I should return, and endeavor to penetrate in the direc-
tion of Jones' Sound, carefully examining every place
that was practicable. Should our efforts to reach this
point be successful, and in the route no traces are dis-
cernible of the long missing expedition, I should not
then be enabled longer to divest mj'self of the feelings,
painful as it must be to arrive at such a conclusion, that
all human aid would then be perfectly unavailing ; and
therefore, under such a conviction, I would think it my
duty, if possible, to return to England, or at all events
endeavor to reach some port that would insure that ob-
ject upon the following year.

"4. In the event of tnis being our last communica>
tion, I would request you to assure their lordships that
no apprehensions whatever need be entertained of our
safety until the autumn of 1854, as we have on board
three years of all species of provisions, commencing
from tne 1st of September proximo, which, without
much deprivation, may be made to extend over a period
of four years ; moreover, whatever is killed by the hunt-
ing pailies, I intend to issue in lieu of the usual rations,
which will still further protract our resources.

"It gives me great pleasure to say that the good
effects of the fruit and vegetables, (a large quantity of
which we took on board at Oahu,) are very perceptible
in the increased vigor of the men, who at tnis moment
are in as excellent condition as it is possible to desire,
and evince a spirit of confidence and a cheerfulness of
disposition which are beyond all appreciation.

" 5. Should difficulties apparently insurmountable en-
compass our progress, so as to render it a matter of
doubt whether the vessel could be extricated, I should
deem it expedient in that case not to hazard the lives

1 ;

■- i!':

1 !*■

■ 5 ' ■

i|i

■V:!

-'1

804

PKOUKUHH or AKOriO UkiOUVEiiT.

of those iutrusted to my charge after the winter of 1862,
out in the ensuing spring quit the vessel with sledges
and boats, and make the best of our way either to
Pond's Bay, Leopold Harbor, the Mackenzie, or for
whalers, according to circumstances.

"Finally. In this letter I have endeavored to give an
outline of what I wish to accomplish, (and what, under
moderately favorable seasons, appears to me attainable,)
the carrying out of which, however, not resting upon
human exertions, it is impossible even to surmise if anv,
or what, portion may be successful. But my object in
addressing you is to place their Lordships in possession
of my intentions up to the latest period, so far as possi-
ble, to relieve their minds from any unnecessary anxiety
as to our fate ; and having done this, a duty which is
incumbent from the deep sympathy expressed by their
Lordships, and participated in by all classes of our
countrymen, in the interesting object of this expedition,
I have only to add, that with the ample resources which
a beneficent government and a generous country have
placed at our disposal, (not any thing that can add to
our comfort being wanting,) we enter upon this distin-
guished service with a firm determination to carry out,
as far as in our feeble strength we are permitted, their
benevolent intentions.

" I have, &c,
'^BoBEBT M'Clubb, Commander.^

^ITer McMeatt^s ship ^Enterpriser
^^Oahuy June 29, 1850.

"Memorandum. — As soon as Her Majesty's ship under
your command is fully complete with provisions, fuel,
and water, you will make the best of your way to Cape
Lisbume, keeping a good look-out for the Herald, or
casks, and firing guns in foggy weather, after passing
liawrenee Bay. The whalers also may afford you infor-
mation of our progress.

"Should you obtain no intelligence, you will under-
stand that I intend to n»ake the pack close to the Ameri

DISpATCUBS ntrm BNTiCBPBISB AND Ur\ MTIQATOil. 805

can shore, and pursue the first favorable openini^ west
of the Coast stream, pressing forward toward JVSlvilln
Island. In the event of meeting land, it is most probr
hie that I would pursue the southern shore, but conspit
U0U8 marks will be erected, if practicable, and informi
tion buried at a ten-foot radius.

'* As it is necessary to be prepared for the contin
gencv of your not being able to tollow by the ice clos
ing in, or the severity of the weather, you will in that
case keep the Investigator as close to the edge of the
pack as is consistent with her safety, and remain there
until the season compels you to depart, when vou will
look Into Kotzebue Sound for the I*lover, or informa-
tion regarding her position ; and liaving deposited un-
der her cha^e a twelve month's provisions, you will
proceed to Valparaiso, replenish, and return to th«
Sti'ait, bearing in mind that the months of June and
July are the most favorable.

" A letter fi*om the hydrographer relative to the vari-
ation of the compass is annexed ; and you will boar in
mind that the value of these observations will he greatly
enhanced by obtaining the variation with the ship's
head at every second or fourth point round the com-
pass occasionally, and she should be swung for devia-
tion in harbor as often as oppoi*tunity may offer.

'' Should you not find the rlover, or that anv casualty
has happened to render her inefficient as a depot, you
will take her place ; and if, (as Captain Kellett sup-
poses,) Kotzebue Sound has proved too exposed for a
winter harbor, you will proceed to Grantley Harbor,
leaving a notice to that eifect on Chamisso Island.
The attention of your oflicere is to be called, and you
will read to your ship's company, the remarks of Sir
J. Richardson concerning the communication with the
Esquimaux, contained in the arctic report received at
PI v month.

" Your operations in the season 1851, cannot be
guided by me, nor is there any occasion to urge you to
proceed to the northeast ; yet it will be highly desir-
abV«, previous to entering the pack, that you completed

506

PROGUESa OF AROTIO DISOOvaRT.

provisions from whalers, and obtained as mnch reindoei
meat as possible. Captain Kelletrs narrative will point
out where the latter is to bo had in most abundance,
and whore coal can be picked np on the beach ; but
husband the latter article during the winter, by using
all the drift-wood in your power.

" In the event of leaving the Strait this season, you
will take any weak or sickly men out of the Plover
and replace them from your crews, affording Com-
mander Moore all the assistance in your power, and
leaving with him Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter ; in?
structions with regard to whose accommodations you
have received, and will convey to the captain of the
Plover. "Richard Collinaok.

" To Commander WGlure^ of Tier
Majesty^a ship * Investigator*^

" Should it be the opinion of Commander Moore that
the services of the Investigator's ship's company in ex-
ploring parties during the spring would be attended
with material benefit to the object of the expedition,
he will, notwithstanding these orders, detain you for
that purpose ; but care must be taken that your effi-
ciency as a sailing vessel is not crippled by the parties
not returning in time for the opening of tne sea.

« R. C."

** Her Majesty's discovery ship * Investigator,^ July
28, 1850. Kotsebue Sounds latitude QQ"^ 64' if^
longitude IQ^"" W.

" Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you, for the in-
fonnation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi-
ralty, that to this date we have had a most excellent
run. Upon getting clear of Oahu, on the morning of
the 6th, we shaped a course direct for the Aleutian
group, passing them in 172° 40' "W., upon the evening
o^ the 20th ; continued our course with a fine south-
eneterly brteeze, but extremely thick and foggy weather,
fwhich retarded the best of our way being made.) Got
fairly out of Behring's Strait upon the evening of th«

VOYAOE OF TlIE PLOVER, ETC.

807

27th, and are now in a fair way of realiziug their Lord*
sliips' expevtations of reaching the ice by the begin-
ning of August, our progress ueing advanced bv the
favorable circumstances of a fine southerly wind and
tolerably clear weather. The latter wo have known
nothing of since the 19th, which, I can assure you, ren-
dered the navigation among the islands a subject of
much and deep anxiety, seldom having a horizon above
480 yards, that just enabled the dark outline of the land
to be observed and avoided.

" It is with much satisfaction that I report the good
qualities of tliis vessel, having well' tried her in the
heavy gales experienced during five weeks off Cape
Horn, and in moderate weather among the intricate
navigation of these islands, where so much depended
upon her quick obedience to the helm, although laden
with every species of stores and provisions for upward
of three years. From these circumstances I am, there-
fore, fully satisfied she is as thoroughly adapted for this
service as could be reasonably wished.

" I have not seen any thing of the Enterprise, nor is
it my intention to lose a moment by waiting off Cape
Lisbumo, but shall use my best endeavors to carry out
the intentions contained in my letter of the 20tn, of
which I earnestly trust their Lordships will approve.

" I am happy to be able to state that the wnole crew
are in excellent health and spiri'ts, and every thing af
satisfactory as it is possible to desire..

" 1 have, &c.,
** KoBEBT M'Clubk, Uonmuinder.

* 2*he S^wetary of tks Admiralty?^

Voyage oi H. M. S. " Plover," and Boa* • ExPEDitioRi
unijeb Commander Pulijsn, 1848- 51.

In the copy of the instructions issued from the Ad-
miralty to Lieutenant, (now Commander,) Moore, of
the Plover, dated 3d of January, 1848, he was directed
to make the best of his way to Petropaulowski, touch-
ing at Panama, where she ^'as to be ]oI<ied, by H. M.

808

PROOREfiS OF AUOriO DISGOTSBT.

8. Ilertild, and afterward both vessels were to procend
to Bell ring's Strait, where they were expected to arrivo
about tiie Ist of July, and then push along the Ameri-
can coast, as far as possible, consistent with tlio cer-
tainty of preventing the ships being beset by the let*
The Flover was then to be secured for the winter in
some safe and convenient port from whence boat par-
ties might bo dispatched, and the Herald was to return
and transmit, via Panama, any intelligence necessary
to England. Great caution was ordered to be observed
in communicating with tho natives in the neighborhood
of Kotzebue Sound, should that quarter be visited, as
the people in that part of the country differ in charac-
ter from the ordinary Esquimaux, in being compara-
tively a fierce, agile, and suspicious race, well armed
with knives, &c., for offense, and prone to attack.
They were also ordered to take interpreters or guides
from a small factory of the Kuosian- American Company
in Norton Sound.

The Plover was safely ensconced for the winter of
1849-50 in Kotzebue Sound, after tho termination of a
hard season's work. She had, conjointly with the Her-
ald, discovered to the north of Sehring's Strait, two
islands, and several apparently disconnected patches
of very elevated ground. Lieut. Pullen had previously
quitted her oft' Wainwright Inlet, with four boats, for
tne purpose of prosecutmc his adventurous voyage
along the coast to the mouth of the Mackenzie River,
where he arrived safely on tho 26th of August, after a
perilous navigation of tnirty-two days, but had obtained
no clue or intelligence regarding the prime object of his
expedition. At a later date he encountered at Fort
Simpson, higher up the river. Dr. Rae, and gathered
from tha*( gentleman that the party led by him down
the Coppermine, with the view of crossing over to Vic
toria or Wollaston Land, had^ owing to the unusual
difficulties created by the more than customary rigor of
the season, met with entire failure ; tbe farthest point
attained being Cape Krusenstem.

Lient. Pullen is occupied during the present year in

TOTAOE OF THE PLOVER, ETC.

809

1^ jonriK^j from the mouth of the Mackenzie eastward, •
along the arctic coast, as far as Cupo Bathnrst, and this
being successfully accomplished, he purposes attempt-
ing to cross the intervening space to BanKs' Laud. He
is lurnished with two boats, both open.

Lieut. W. H. Hooper, one of the party, in a recent
letter to his father in London, writing from Great Slave
Lake, under date June 27, 1850, gives some further do-
tails of their proceedings. Havmg had considerable
trouble and a slight skirmish with some parties of Es-
quimaux, thev were obliged to be continually on the
watch. At the end of August, the party entered tlie
Mackenzie River, and in a tew days reached one of the
Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the Peel River, a
branch of the Mackenzie, where Commander Pullen
left Lieut. Hooper and half the party to winter, while
he proceeded farther up the river to a more important
post at Fort Simpson. After remaining at Peel's River
station about a foi-tnight, Mr. Hooper found that his
party could not bo maintained throughout the winter
there, and in consequence determined on following
Capt. Pullen, but was only able to reach Fort Norman,
one of his party being frost-bitten on the journey.
They thence made their way across to Great Bear Lake,
where they passed the winter, subsisting on fish and
water. Dr. Kae arrived there as soon as the ice broke
up, and the party proceeded with him to Fort Simpson.

On the 20th or June, Commander Pullen and all his
party left with the company's servants, and the stock of
lurs, on their way to the sea, to embark for England,
when they were met, on the 25th, by a canoe with Ad-
miralty dispatches, which caused them to retrace their
steps ; and they are now on their route by the Great
Slave Lake to Fort Simpson, and down the Mackenzie
once more, to the Polar Sea, in search of Sir John
franklin.

" However grieving," Lieut. Hooper adds, " it is to
be disappointed of returning home, yet I am neverthe-
leBB delighted to go again, and think that we do not
hopelessfy undertake another search} since our intondod

810

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

direction is considered the most probable channel foi
finding the missing ships or crews. We ^o down tlie
Mackenzie, along Uie coast eastward to Pomt Bathurst,
and thence strike across to "WoUaston or Banks Land.
The season will, of course, much influence our ])roceed-
ings ; but we shall probably return up the hitherto
unexplored river which runs into the Arctic Ocean
from Liven^ool Bay, between the Coppermine and
Mackenzie."

Tlie latest official dispatch from Commander Pullen
is dated Great Slave Lake, June 28th. lie had been
stopped by the ice, and intended returning to Fort
Simpson on the 29th. One of his boats was so battered
about as to be perfectly useless ; he into-nded patching
up the other, and was also to receive a new boat be-
longing to the Hudson's Bay Company, from Foit
Simpson. He had dismissed two of his party, as they
were both suffering fi'om bad health, but proposed en-
gaging, at Fort Good Hope, two Hare Indians as hunt-
ers and guides, one of whom had accompanied Messrs.
Dease and Simpson on their trips of discovery in 183S
and 1839. This would augment the party to seventeen
persons in all.

" My present intentions," he says, " are to proceed
down the Mackenzie, along the coast, to Cape Bathurst,
and then strike across for Banks' Land ; my operations
must then, of course be guided by circumstances, but I
shall strenuously endeavor to search along all coasts in
that direction as far and as late as I can with safety
venture ; returning, if possible, by the Mackenzie, or
by tlie Beghoola, which the Indians speak of as being
navigable, as its head waters are, (according to Sir John
Richardson,) only a nine-days' passage from Fort Good
Hope ; to meet which, or a similar contingency, I take
enow shoes and sledges, &q.

" In conclusion, I beg to assure their Lordships of
my earnest determination to carry out their views to
the utmost of my ability, being confident, from the
eagerness of the party, that no pains will be si)ared, no
necessarv ?{ibor nvr^''''o/i^ and, by God's |)les8ing, we

isfi^r

VOYAGE OF THE ri.OrKB, BXa

311

Tmine and

hope to be successful in discovering some tidings of our
gallant countrymen, or even in restoring them to their
native land and anxious relatives."

Mr. Chief Factor Kae was about to follow Com-
mander Pullen and his party from Portage La -Loche.

Dr. Kichardson observes that " Commander Pullen
will require to be fully victualed for at least 120 days
from the 20th of July, when he may be expected to
commence his sea voyage ; which, for sixteen men, will
require forty-five bags of pemmican of 90 lbs. each.
Tins is exclusive of a further supply which he ought to
take for the relief of any of Franklin's people he may
liave the good fortune to find. After he leaves the
main-land at Cape Bathurst, he would have no chance
of killing deer till he makes Banks' Land, or some in-
tervening island ; and he must provide for the chance
of being caught on the floe ice, and having to make his
way across by the very tedious portages, as fully de-
scribed by Sir W. E. Parry in the narative of his most
adventurous boat voyage north of Spitzbergen.

" Mr. Rae can give Commander Pullen the fullest
information respecting the depots of pemmican made
on the coast.

" With respect to Commander PuUen's return from
sea, his safest plan will be to make for the Mackenzie ;
hut should circumstances place that out of his power,
the only other course that seems to me to be practicable
is for him to ascend a large river which falls int^ the
bottom of Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Ba-
thurst. This river, which is named the Begloola Deasy
hv the Indians, runs parallel to the Mackenzie, and in
the latitude of Fort Good Hope, (06° 80' N.,) is not
above five or six days' journey from that post. 11 are
Indians, belonging to ^ort Good Hope, might be en
gaged to hunt on the banks of the river till the arrival
of the party. Tlie navigation of the river is unknown ;
but even should Commander Pullen be compelled to
quit his boats, his Indian hunters, (of which he should
at least ongage two for his sea voyage,) will support
and guide his party. "Wood 'and animals are most cer-
tainly found on the l>ank8 of rivers.

312

PROGIiliSS OF AUCTIO DISCOVERT.

lit

"It is not likely that under any circumstances Com-
mander PuUen should desire to reach the Mackenzie
by way of the Coppermine River, and this could be
enbctcd only by a boat being ^)laced at Dease River,
for the transport of the party over Great Bear Lake.
Tliip would require to be arranged previously with
Mr. Rae ; and Commander Pullen should not be
later in arriving at Fort Confidence than the end of
September."

Voyage of the "Ladt Franklin'* and "SopftiA,"
Government Vessels, under the command of Mr,
Penny, 1850-51.

A vessel of 230 tons, named the Lady Franklin, fit
ted out at Aberdeen, with a new brig as a tender, buill
at Dundee, and named the Sophia, in hontT of Misf
S. Cracroft, the beloved and attached niece of Ladj
Franklin, and one of the most anxious watchers foi
tidings of the long missing adventurers, were purchased
by the government last year.

The cnarge of this expedition was intrusted to Cap
tain Penny, formerly commanding the Advice whaler,
and who has had much experience in the icy seas, liav-
ing been engaged twenty-eight years, since the age of
twelve, in the whaling trade, and in command of ves-
sels for fourteen vears ; Mr. Stewart was placed in
charge of the Sophia.

Tlie crew of the Lady Franklin number twenty-five,
and that of the Sophia, twenty, all picked men.

These ships sailed on the 12th of April, 1850, pro-
visioned and stored /or three years. They were pro-
vided with a printing press, and every appliance to
relieve the tediuir of a long sojourn in the icy regions.

In the instructions issued by the Adnaralty, it is
stated that in accepting Captain Parry's ofler of service,
regard has been had to his long experience in arctic
navigation, smi to the great attention he has paid to
the subject of the missing ships.

lie was left in a great mt^asure to the exercise of bia

)

VOYAGE OF THE EKSOLUTE AND ASSIST AKOE, ETC. 813

rtwn jud^nent and discretion, in combining the tiost
active and energetic search after the Erebus and Turror,
with a strict and careful regard to tlie safety of the
ships and their crews under his charge. He was di-
rected to examine Jones' Sound at the liead of Baffin's
Bay, and if possible, penetrate tlirough to the Parry
Islands ; failing in this, he was to try Wellington Strait,
and endeavor to reach Melville Island. He was to use
his utmost endeavors, (consistent with the safety of the
lives of those intrusted to his command,) to succor, in
the summer of 1850, the party under Sir John Frank-
lin, taking care to secure his winter-quarters in good
time ; and 2dly, the same active measures were to be
used in the summer of 1851, to secure the return of the
fillips under his charge to this country.

Tlie Lady Franklin was oft* Cape York, in Baffin's
Bay, on the 13th of August. From thence she pro-
ceeded, in company with H. M. S. Assistance, to W ol-
stenholmo Sound. She afterward, in accordance with
her instructions, crossed over to the west with the in-
tention of examining Jones' Sound, but owing to the
accumulation of ice, was unable to approach it within
twenty-five miles. This was at midnight on the 18th.
She, therefore, continued her voyage to Lancaster
Sound, and onward to Wellington Channel, where she
was seen by Commander Forsyth, of the Prince Albert,
)n the 25th of August, with her tender, and H. M. S
Assistance in company, standing toward CapeHotham.

(

V"oYAQE OF IT. M. Ships " Resolute " and " Assistance,"
WITH THE Steamers "Pioneer" and "Intrepid"
as Tenders, under command of Captain Austin,
1850-51.

Two fine teak-built ships of about 500 tons each, th
Baboo and Ptarmigan, whose names were altered tc
Ihe Assistance and Resolute, were purchased l)y the
iroTornment in 1850, and sent to the naval yards to be
oroperly fitted for the voyage to the polar regions.

Two screw-propeller steamers, intended to accompany

814

PBOOBBSS OF ABOriO DI800TE&T.

these vessels as steam tenders, were also pnrchased. and
similarly fitted ;- their names were changed from the
Eider and Free Trade to the Pioneer and Intrepid.

The command of this expedition was intrusted to
Captain Horatio T. Anstin, C. B., who was first Lieu
tenant of the Fury, imder Commander Hoppner, ii
Captain Sir E. Parry's third voyage, in 1824-26. The
vessels were provisioned for three years, and their at-
tention was also directed to the depots of stores lodged
by Sir James Ross at Leopold Island, and at Navy
Board Inlet by the North Star. The ships sailed in
May, 1850. Ine officers employed in them were as
follows : —

Hesohite,

Captain — Horatio T. Austin, 0. B.

Lieutenants — R. D. Aldrich, and "W. H. J. Browne.

Mates — K. B. Pearse, and W. M. May.

Purser — J. E. Brooman.

Surgeon — A. R. Bradford.

Assistant, ditto— Richard 'Kins,

Midshipmen — 0. BuUock, J. P. Oheyoa.

Second Master — G. F. M'Dougall.

Total complement, 60 men.

Pioneer^ screw steamer.

Lient.-Commandins — Sherard Osborn.
Second Master — j. H. AUard.
Assistant-Surgeon — F. R. Picthpnu

AsHstanoe.
Captain — E. Ommaney.
Lieutenants — J. E. Elliot, F. L. M*01intock, and

G. F. Mecham.
Surgeon — J. J. L. Donnett
Assistant, ditto — J. "Ward, (a.)
Mates — R. V. Hamilton, and J. K. Keaii«.
Clerk in Charge — E. N. Harrison.
Second Master — W. B. Shellabear.
Midshipman — 0. R. Markham.

Total complement, 60 men.

TOTAGE OF THE BESOLDTE AJ^D ASSISTANCE, BTa 31 fi

Intrepid^ screw steamer.
Lieut-Commander — B. Cator.
Each of the tenders had a crew of 30 men.

Two ot the oflScers appoiuted to this expedition, Lieu-
tenants Browne and M/Clintock, were in the Enterpriso
under Captain Sir James C. Ross in 4843.

The Emma Eugenia transport was dispatched in ad-
vance with provisions to the wbale-Fish Islands, to await
tlie arrival of the expedition.

It having been suggested by some parties that Sir
John Franklin mi»ht have effected his passage to Mel-
ville Island, and been detained there with liis sliips,
or that the ships might have been damaged by the ice
in the neighboring sea, and that with his crews ho had
abandoned them and made his escape to that idland,
Captain Austin was specially instructed to use every
exertion to reach this island, detaching a portion of his
sliips to search the shores of Wellington Channel and
the coast about Cape Walker, to which point Sir John
Franklin was ordered to proceed.

Advices were first received from the Assistance, aftei
her departure, dated 5th of July ; she was then making
her way to the northward. Tlie season was less favor-
able for exploring operations than on many previous
years. But little ice had been met with in Davis'
Strait, where it is generally found in large quantities,
so that obstacles ot a serious nature may be expected
to the northward. Penny's ships had been in company
with them.

Ice is an insurmountable barrier to rapid progress ;
fortificiitions may be breached, but huge masses of ice,
5iOO to GOO feet high, are not to be overcome.

On the 2d of July the Assistance was towed beneath
a ])eri)cndicular cliff to the northward of Cape Shackle-
ton, rising to the height of 1500 feet, which was ob-
served to De crowded with the foolish guillemots, ( Uria
troile.) When the ship hooked on to an iceberg for the
night, a party sent on shore for the purpose brought off
260 birds ana about twenty dozen oi their eggs. These
birds only lay one egg each . ,^^

,816

PROOKK88 OF AKdlO DISCOVKKY.

I ft

The following official dispatch has been iince received
from Captain Ommanej : —

^^HerMaje8t/y^8 ship ^Assistances off Lcmcaster Sounds
laUiAide W 46' iV., longitude 76® 49' IT., August
17, 1850.

" Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you, for the in*
formation of the-^Lords Commissioners of the Admi-
ralty, that her Majesty's ship Assistance, and her tender,
her Majeaty's steam-vessel Intrepid, have this day suc-
ceeded in effecting a passage across to the west water,
and are now proceeding to Lancaster Sound. Officers
and crews all well, witn fine clear weather, and open
water as far as can be seen.

" Agreeably with instructions received from Captain
II. Austin, we parted company on the 15th instant, at
one A. M., off Cape Dudley Diggs, as the ice was then
sufficiently open to anticipate no farther obstruction in
eftectin w the north passage. He was anxious to proceed
to Pond"s Bay, and thence take up the examination along
the south snores of Lancaster Sound, leaving me to
ascertain the truth of a report obtained from the Esqui-
maux at Cape York respecting some ship or ships hav-
ing been seen near "WolstenhoTme Island, after wnich to
proceed fco the north shores of Lancaster Sound and
Wellington Channel.

" On passing Cape York, (the 14th inst.,) natives wer^
eeen. By the directions of Captain Austin I landed,
and communicated with them, when we were informed
that they had seen a ship in that neighborhood in the
spring, and that she was housed in. Upon this intelli-
gence I shipped one of the natives, who volunteered to
joi 1 us as interpreter and guide.

"On parting with Captain Austin we proceeded
toward Wolstenholme Island, where I left the ship and
proceeded in her Majesty's steam- vessel Intrepia into
Wolstenholme Soundj and by the guidance of the Esqui-
aiaux, succeeded in finding a bay about thirteen miles
*irther in, and sheltered by a prominent headland. In
the cairns erected here we found a docum«nt stating

▼OYAOB OF THE RESOLUTE AND ASSISTANCE, KTO. 317

that the North Star had wintered in the bay, a copy
of wliich I have the honor to transmit to tneir Lord-
shi [ye.

" Previous to searchinff the spot where the North Stai
wintered, I examined tne deserted Esquimaux settle-
ment. At this spot we found evident traces of soma
ehij) having been in the neighborhood, from empty pre-
B(M-ved meat canistera and some clothes left near a pool
cf water, marked with the name of a corporal belonging
to the North Star.

" Having ascertained this satisfactory information, 1
returned to Wolstenholme Island, where a document was
clt'])08ited recording our proceedings. At 6 a. m., of the
lOfli inst., I rejoined the ship, and proceeded at two to
tlie westward, and am happy to inform you that the
passage across has been made without obstruction, tow-
ing til rough loose and straggling ice.

" The expedition was beset in Melville Bay, sur-
rounded by heavy and extensive floes of ice, from the
11th of July to the 0th of August, 1850, when, after
great exertion, a release was efi'ected, and we succeeded
in reaching Cape York by continuing along the edge of
the land-ice, after whicn we have oeen favored v'*^
[)lenty of water.

" Captain Penny's expedition was in company during
the most part of the time while in Melville Bay, and up
to the 14th inst., when we left him off Cape Dudley
Dinrjrs — all well.

" In crossing Melville Bay we fell in with Sir John
Ross and Captain Forsyth's expeditions. These Capt.
Austin has assisted by towing them toward their desti-
nations. The latter proceeded with him, and the former
has remained with us.

"• Having placed Sir John Ross in a fair way of
reaching Lancaster Sound, with a fair wind and open
water, liis vessel has been cast off in this position. I
shall, therefore, proceed with all dispatch to the exami-
nation of the north shores cf Lancaster Sound and
Wellington Channel, according to Captain Austin's
directions.

818

PBOOBsas or ABcno dibooyebt.

**! have the honor to be, Sir, your most obedient
nnmble servant

" Ebabxub Ommanst, Oaptain.**

The Besolntfrgot clear of the Orkoevs on the 15th of
May, and arrivea with her consort and the two tenders
at the Whale-Fish Islands on the 14th of June

The Resolute was in Possession Bay on the 17th of
Auf;u8t. From thence her proposed course was along
the coast, northward and westward, to Whaler Point,
situated at the southern extremity of Port Leopold, and
afterward to Melville Island.

In order to amuse themselves and their comrades, the
oflBcers of tlie Af^sistance had started a MS. newspaper,
under the name of the " Aurora Borealis." Many of
my readers will have heard of the " Cockpit Herald,"
and such other productions of former days, in his Majes-
ty's fleet. Parry, too, liad his journal to beguile the
long hours of the tedious arctic winter.

ihave seen copies of this novel specimen of the
'fourth estate," dated Baffin's Bay, June, 1850, in which
there is a happy mixture of grave and gay, prose and
verse ; numerous very fair acrostics are published. I
append, by way of curiosity, a couple of extracts : —

" What insect that Noah had with him, were these
regions named after ? — ^The arc-tic."

" To tli4 editor of the Aurora BoreaUa,

*' Sib, — Having heard from an arctic voyager that he
has seen * crows'-nests' in those icy regions, I beg to
inquire through your columns, if they are built by the
crows, {Corvu8 tintinnahulus^ which Good sir states to
utter a metallic bell-like croak? My fast friend begs
me to inauire when rook shooting commences in those
diggings ?

" A Natubaust.

[" We would recommend to ' A Naturalist ' a visit to
tliepe * croMVs'-nesjttJ,' which do exist in the arctic regions,
\Te woujd ai9o advise his fast friend to investigate

»■'■

TOYAOS OF SIB JOHN BOSS IN THB FAUX, ETC. 319

BT.

lit to

tons.

rate

theRe «aid nests more tborouffbly ; he wOuld find tbom
tenanted by very old birds pee quarter-masters,) who
would not only inform bim as to the species of crows
and the sporting season, but would give them a fair
chance of showing him how a pigeon may be plucked.
— Editob."]

VOTAGK OP OaFTAIN SiB JoHN Bo68 IN THB ''FeLIX"
PBIVATB SOHOONEB, 1850-51.

In April, 1850, Captain Sir John Ross having vol-
nnteerea bis services to proceed in the search, was en-
abled, by the liberality of the Hudson's Bay Company,
who contributed 500^., and public subscription, to leave
England in the Felix schooner, of 120 tons, with a
picked crew, and accompanied by Commander C. Ger-
vans Phillips, R. K. She also bad the Mary, Sir John's
own yaclit of twelve tons, as a tender. Mr. Abernethj
proceeded as ice-master, having accompanied Sir John
in his former voyage to Boothia; and Mr. Sivewright
was mate of the Felix. The vessels sailed from Scot-
land on the 23d of May, and reached Holsteinborg in
June, where Captain Ross succeeded in obtaining a
Danish interpreter who understood the Esquimaux
language; he then proceeded on, culling at the Whale-
Fish Islands, and passing northway through the Way-
gatt Strait, overtook, on the 10th of August, H. M.
ships Assistance and Resolute, with their tenders the
Intrepid and Pioneer, under the command of Captain
A-ustin.

On the 13th of August, Captain Ommaney in the
Assistance, and Sir John Ross in the Felix, being
somewhere off Cape York, observed three male Es-
quimaux on the ice close by, and with these people
it was prudently resolved to communicate. Accord-
ingl}'^. Lieutenant Cator in the Intrepid steamer, tender
to the Assistance, and Commander Phillips in the
whale-boat of the Felix, put otF on this service. The
Intrepid's people arrived first, but apparently without
any means of expressing their desires, so that when the

.,1

t^■t

820

PR00Rl!S8 OF ABCTftO DtSOOVlEEt.

boat of the Felix, containing an Esquimaux interpreter^
joined the party, the natives immediately gave signs
of recognition and satisfaction, came into the Doat with-
out the least hesitation, and engaged themselves pre-
sently in a long and animated conversation with theii
countryman the interpreter. Half an hour was de-
voted to this interchange of intelligence, but with no
immediate result, for the interpreter could only trans-
late his native language into Danish, and as no person
in the boat understood Danish, the information re-
mained as inaccessible as before. In this predicament
the boats returned with the intention of confronting the
interpreter — whose christianized name is Adam Beek
— with Sir John Ross himself. As Sir John, however
was pushing ahead in the Felix toward Cape Dudley
Diggs, and as Adam appeared anxious to disburden
himself of his newly acquired information, the boats
dropped on board the rrince Albert, another o^' the
exploring vessels in the neighborhood, and there put
Adam in communication with the captain's steward,
John Smith, who "understood a little ot the language,"
as Sir John Ross says, or "a good deal," as Com
mander Phillips says, and who presently gave such an
account of the intelligence as startled every body on
board. Its purport was as follows; — ^That in the win-
ter of 1846, when the snow was falling, two ships were
crushed by the ice a good way off in the direction of
Cape Dudley Diggs, and afterward burned by a fierce
and numerous tribe of natives ; that the ships in ques-
tion were not whalers, and that epaulettes were worn
by some of the white men ; that a part of the crews
were drowned, that the remainder were some time in
huts or tents apart from the natives, that they had guns,
but no balls, and that being in a weak and exhausteti
condition, they were subsequently killed by the natives
with darts or arrows. This was the form given to the
EsquimSiux story by John Smith, captain's steward of
the Prince Albert. Impressed with the importance of
these tidings, Captain Ommaney and Commander
Phillips immediately made their report to, Captain

TBTAfln or ns jobdi bobs in thb feuz, etc. 321

Austin in the Besolnte, whicb wan then in conipan)r
with the Felix near Gape Dadlej "Dm^a. Captain Aus.
tin at once decided upon investigating the credibility
oi the •torYf and with this view dispatched a message
to the Lady Franklin, another of the exploring ships,
which lay a few miles off, and which had on board a
regular fianish interpreter This interpreter duly ar-
rived, bnt proceeded forthwith to translate the story by
a statement "totally at variance" with the interpreta-
tion of " the other," whom, as we are told, he called a
liar and intimidated into silence ; though no sooner was
the latter left to himself than he again repeated his
version of the tale, and stoutly maintained its accuracy.
Meantime an additional piece of information became
known, namely, that a certain ship had passed the win-
ter safely housed in Wolstenhulrae Sound — a state*
ment soon ascertained by actual investigation to be
perfectly true. The following is an extract from a letter
from — '

Captain Sir John Boas^ R. N to Captain W. A. B.
Hamilton, R. i\r., SecreUiry of the Admiralty.

•* ^ Felix^ discovery yacht, of Admiralty Inlet.
" Lancaster &oimd, August 22.

** Sra, — ^I have to acquaint you, for the information
of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that the
Felix discovery yacht, with her tender, the JVlary, after
obtaining an Esquimaux interpreter at Ilolsteinborg,
and calling at Whale-Fish Islands, proceeded north way
through the Waygatt Straits, and overtook her Ala-
jesty's discovery snips, under the command of Captain
Austin on the 11th of August ; and on the 12th the
senior oflScer and the second in command having cor-
dially communicated with nie on the best mode of
performing the service on which we are mutually em-
oarked, arrangements were made and conchuled for a
simultaneous examination of every part of the eastern
side of a northwest passage in which it was probable
that the missing ships could be bound : documents to

829

PB00RBS8 or AJtOTIO DISUOTERT.

that effect were exchanged, and Bubseqaently aMoiM
to byOaptainB Forsyth and Penny.

^ On toe 13th of Augnet natives were discovered on
die ice near to Gape York, with whom it was doemod
advisable to communicate. On this service, Lieutenant
Gator, in the Iiitropid, was dotachod on the part of
Gftptain Austin, and on my part Gomniander rhilllpB,
with our Esquimaux interpreter, in the whale-boat of
the Felix, it was found by Lieutenant Gator that Gap-
tain PenAy bad left with the natives a note for Gaptain
Austin, but only relative to the state of the navigation ;
however, when Gomraander Phillips arrived, the Esqui-
maux, seeing one apparently of their own nation in the
whale-boat, came immediately to him, when a long
conversation took place, the purport of which could
not be made known, as the interpreter could not ex-
plain himself to any one, either in the Intrepid or the
whale-boat, (as he understands only the Danish besides
his own language,) until he was brought on board the
Prince Albert, where John Smith, the captain's stew-
ard of that vessel, who bad been some years at the
Hudson's Bay settlement of Ohurchill, and understands
a little of the language, was able to give some expla-
nation of Adam Beek's information, which was deemed
of such importance that Gaptains Ommaney, Phillips,
and Forsyth, proceeded in the Lxtrepid to the Kesolute,
when it was decided by Gaptain Austin to send for the
Danish Interpreter of the Lady Franklin, which, hav-
ing been unsuccessful in an attempt at chatting through
the ice to the westward, was only a few miles distant.
In the mean time it was known that, in addition to the
first information, a ship, which could only be the North
Star, had wintered in Wolstenholme Sound, called hj
the natives Ourinak, and had only left it a month ago.
This proved to be true, but the interpretation of the
Dane was totally at variance with the information given
by the other, who, although for obvious reasons he did
not dare to contradict the Dane, subsequently main-
tained the truth of his statement, which indnced Gap-
tain Austin to dispatch the -Intrepid with Oa2>taina

▼OTAOfi OF SIB JOHN ROSS IN THE FELIX, KTO. 821

Mi on

omcd
anant
rt of
illips,
at of
;Oap-
iptain
[ition \
Esqui-
in the
k long
coula
lot ex-
or tlio
resides
rd the
I Btew-
|at the
stands
oxpla-
semcsd

18 did
lain-
Cap*

btaini

Oinmaney and Phillips, taking with them both onr in-
terpreters, Adam Bcek and a young native who had
been persuaded to come as one cf the crew of the As-
sistance, to examine Wolstenholme Sound. In tht
mean time it had been unanimously decided that no
alteration should be made in our previous arrangement,
it being obvious that while there remained a chance of
saving the lives of those of the missing ships who may
he yet alive, a further search for those who had per-
ished should be postponed, and accordingly the Reso-
lute, Pioneer, and Prince Albert parted company on
the 15th. It is here unnecessary to give the omcial re-
pci ts made to me by Commander Phillips, which are
:f course transmitted by me to the Secretary of the
Hudson's Bay Company, which, with the information
written in the Esquimaux language by Adam Beek,
will no doubt be sent to you for their Lordships' infor-
mation ; and it will be manifest by the«e reports thai
Commander Phillij)S has performed his duty with sa-
gacity, circumspection, and address, which do him in-
nnite credit, although it is only such as I must have
expected from so intelligent an officer; and I have
much satisfaction in adding that it has been mainly
owing to his zeal and activity that I was able, under
disadvant.'! s circumstances, to overtake her Majes-
ty's ships, \ ae by his scientific acquirements and ac-
curacy in snrveying, he has been able to make many
important corrections and valuable additions to the
charts of the much-frequented eastern side of Baffin's
Bay, which has been more closely observed and navi-
gated by us than by any former expedition, and, much
to my satisfaction, connrminff the latitude aud longi-
tude of every headland I had an opportunity of laying
down in the year 1818.

^^ I have only to add that I have mnch satisfkction
in co-operating with her Majesty's expedition. With
such support and with such vessels so particularly
adapted for the service, no exertion shall be wanting
on my part. But I cannot conclude this letter without
acknowledging my obligations to Commodore Austin

1 1

PROGRESS OF ARWIO DISCOVERT.

and Captain Oicmaney for the assistance they have af-
forded me, and for the cordiality and courtesy with
which I have been treated by these distinguished offi-
cers and others of the ships under their orders. Ani
mated as we are with an ardent and sincere desire to
rescue our iraperiied countrymen, I confidently trust
»hat our united exertions and humble endeavors may,
mder a merciful Providence, be completely successful.
"I am, with truth and regard, Sir, your faithful and
o\^edient servant,

"John Ross, Captain, R. N."

By the acoouats brought home by Commander For-
syth from Ltincaster Sound, to the 25th of August, it
is stated that Sir John Ross, in the Felix, intended to
return to England.

The ice was at that period very heavy, extending all
around from Leopold Island, at the entrance of Regent
Inlet, to Cape Farewell, to the westward, so as to pre-
vent the possibility of any of the vessels pushing on to
Cape Walker. When the Prince Albert was between
Cape Spencer and Cape Innes, in "Wellington Channel,
Mr. Snow went at noon to the mast-head, and saw H.
M. Ship Assistance as near as possible within Cape
Hotham, under a press of sail. Her tender, the In-
trepid, was not seen, but was believed to be with her.
Captain Penny, with his two ships, the Lady Franklin
and Sophia, was endeavoring to make his way up the
same Channel, but it was feared the ice would ulti-
mately be too strong for him, and that he would have
to return home, leaving Captain Austin^s squadron only
to winter in the ice.

The American man-of-war brig Rescue was close be
set with the ice near Cape Borren.

The Pioneer was with the Resolute on the 17th
An^^t-

ladr franklin's appeal. to american nation. 325

American Searchino Expedition. — United States'
Ships, "Advance" and "Rescue," under the Com-
mand OF Lieutenant Db Haven, 1850-61.

In the spring of 1849, Lady Franklin made a toncb
ing and pathetic appeal to the feelings of' the American
nation, in the /ollowing letter to the President of the
Republic : —

The Lady of Sir John Franklin to ths President,

^Bedford-place^ London^ 4:th Aprils 1849.

"Sir, — I address myself to you as the head of a
great nation, whose power to help me I cannot doubt,
and in whose disposition to do so I have a confidence
which I trust you will not deem presumptuous.

"The name of my husband, Sir John Franklin, i?
probably not unknown to you. It is intimately con
nected with the northern part of that continent of
which the American republic forms so vast and con-
spicuous a portion. When I visited the United States
three years ago, among the many proofs I received of
respect and courtesy, there was none which touched
and even surprised me more than the appreciation
everywhere expressed to irie of his former services in
geographical discovery, and the interest felt in the en«
terprise in which he was then known to be engaged."
« « * « «

[Her ladyship here gives the details of the departure

cf the expedition, and the measures already taken for

its relief.]

* » * • •

" I have entered into these details with the view of
proving that, though the British government has not
lorgottan the duty it owes to the brave men whom it
has sent on a perilous service, and has spent a very
large sum in providing the means for their rescue, yet
that, owing to various causes, the means actually in
operation for this purpose are quite inadeqiiate to meet
the extreme exigence of the case ; for, it must l>«

fej'^'

,i\

!?;■*

IWi

Ik!!;,

826

PBOORE88 OF ARCl'lO DISCOVEHT.

remembered, that the missing ships were victualed foi
thr^Q jears only, and that nearly four years have now
elapsed, bo that the survivors of so many winters in the
ice must be at the last extremity. And also, it must
be borne in mind, that the channels by which the ships
may have attempted to force a passage to the westward,
or which they may have been compeHed, by adverse
circumstances, to take, are very numerous and compli*
eated, and that one or two ships cannot possibly, in the
course of the next short summer, explore them all.

" The Board of Admiralty, under a conviction of this
fact, has been induced to oifer a reward of 20,000^.
sterling to any ship or ships, of any country, or to any
explormg party wnatever, which shall render efficient
assistance to the missing ships, or their crews, or to any
portion of them. This announcement, which, even if
the sum had been doubled or trebled, would have met
with public approbation, comes, ho\vever, too late for
our whalers, which had unfortunately sailed before it
was issued, and which, even if the news should over-
take them at their fishing-grounds, are totally unfitted
for any prolonged adventure, having only a few months*
provision on board, and no additional clothing. To the
American whalers, both in the Atlantic and Pacific, I
look with more hope, as competitors for the prize, be-
ing well aware of their numbers and strength, their
thorough equipment, and the bold spirit of enterprise
which animates their crews. But I venture to look
even beyond these. I am not without hope that yon
will deem it not unworthy of a great and Kindred na-
tion to take up the cause of humanity which I plead, in
a na^* nal spirit, and thus generously make it your own.

" I -mnst nere, in gratitude, adduce the example of
the imperial JRussian government, which, as I am led
to hope by his Excellency, the Russian embassador in
London, who forwarded a memorial on the subject, will
send out exploring parties this summer, from the Asiatic
side of Behring's Strait, northward, in search of the
lost vessels. It would be a noble spectacle to the
world, if three great nations, possessed of the widest

i-v>>i ^ra^jslin's appeal to ameeioaji nation. 327

etiitjires on the face of the globe, were thus to unitt
their efforts in the truly christian work of saving their
perishing fellow-men Irom destruction.

'' It is not for me to suggest the mode in which such
benevolent efforts might oest be made. 1 will only say,
liowever, that if the conceptions of my own mind, to
which I do not venture to give utterance, were realized
and that in the noble competition which followed, Amer
ican seamen had the good fortune to w/est from us the
glory, as might be the case, of solving the problem of
5ie unfound passage, or the still greater glory of saving
our adventurous navigators from a lingering fate which
the mind sickens to dwell on, though I should in eithe'
case regret that it was not my own brave countrymen
in those seas whose devotion was thus rewarded, yet
should I rejoice that it was to America we owed our
restored happiness, and should be forever bound to her
by ties of affectionate gratitude.

" I am not without some misgivings vhile I thus ad^
dress you. The intense anxieties of a wife and of a
daughter may have led me to press too earnestly on
your notice the trials under which we are suffering
(yet not we only, but hundreds of others,) and to pre-
sume too much on the sympathy which we are assured
is felt beyond the limits of our own land. Ifet, if
you d 0*3^1 this to be the case, you will still find, I am
Bur< t , v'u in that personal irtensity of feeling, an
exc MT the fearlessness with which I have thrown
my3c r your generosity, and will pardon the how
^ge I thr^j >ay to your own high character, and to thf
of the people over whom you have the distinction t*
|}reside. " I have, &c.,

(Sigiied) "Jane Franklih."

To «rhich the following reply was received : —

/ Mr, Clayton to Lady Jam,e FramMi/n,

^ Dep€n'tment of State^ Washvngiof^
** 26<A AprU, 1849.

" Madam, — ^Your letter to the President of the United
States, dated April 4th, 1849, has been received by

528

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

'it

him, and be has instructed me to make to jon the tol
lowing reply : —

^^ The appeal made in the letter with which yon havf
honored him, is such as would strongly enlist the sym
pathy of the rulers and the people or any porti(»n of
the civilized world.

" To the citizens of the United States, who share b
largely in the emotions which agitate the public minr!
in your own country, the name of Sir Jonn Franklin
has been endeared by his heroic virtues, and the suffer-
ings and sacrifices which he has encountered for tlie
benefit of mankind. The appeal of his wife and daugh-
ter, in their distress, .i en borne across the waters,
asking the assistance oi kindred people to save the
brave men who embarked in this unfortunate expedi-
tion ; and the people of the United States, who have
watched with the deepest interest that hazardous enter-
prise, will now respond to that appeal, by the expression
of their united wishes that every proper effort may be
made by this government for the rescue of your nus-
band and his companions.

" To accomplish the objects you have in view, the
attention of American navigators, and especially of
our whalers, will be immediately invoked". All the in-
formation in the possession of this government, to
enable them to aid in discovering the missing ships,
relieving their crews and restoring them to their fami-
lies, shall be spread far and wide among our people;
and all that the executive government of the United
States, in the exercise of its constitutional powers, can
effect, to meet this requisition on American enterprise,
skill and bravery, will be promptly undertaken.

" The hearts of the American people will be deeply
touched by your eloquent address to their Chief Magis-
trate, and tney will join with you in an earnest prayer
to Him whose spirit is on the waters, tba't your husband
and his companions may yet be restored to their coim
try and their friend a.

" I have, &c.,
«Pii(ned) ** John M. Olaytok ."

LADY FBANKLIN 8 APPEAL TO AMSRICAN NATION. S^f

' A second letter was also addressed by Lady Franklin
to the President in the close of that year, after the forced
return of Captain Sir James Boss, from whose active
exertions so much had been expected —

The Lady of Sir John J^rankUn to the President,
" Spring Ga/rdena^ London^ 11th Deo.^ 1849.

"Sm, — I had the honor of addressing myself to
vou, in the month of April last, in behalt of my hus-
band, Sir John Franklin, his officers and crews, who
were sent by Her Majesty's government, in the spring
of 1845, on a maritime expedition for a discovery of
the northwest passage, and who have never since been
heard of.

"Tjieir mysterious fate has excited, I believe, the
deepest interest throughout the civilized world, but no-
where more so, not even in England itself, than in the
United States of America. It was under a deep con«
viction of this fact, and with the humble hope tnat an
appeal to those general sentiments would never be
made altogether m vain, that I ventured to lay before
you the necessities of that critical period, and to ask
you to take up the cause of humanity which I pleaded,
and generously make it your own.

"How nobly you, sir, and the American people,
responded to that appeal, — how kindly and courteously
that response was conveyed to me, — is known wherever
our common language is spoken or understood ; and
though difficulties, which were mainly owing to the
advanced state of the season, presented themselves after
your official announcement had been made known to our
government, and prevented the immediate execution of
your intentions, yet the generous pledge you had given
was not altogether withdrawn, jmd hope still remained
to me that, should the necessity for ren3wed measures
continue to exist, I might look again across the waters
tor the needed succor.

"A period has now, alas, av/ived, when our dearest
Qopes as to the safe return of »he discovery ships this
autumn are finally crushed b> the unexpected, though

830

PROORKSS OP AKOTIO DISOOVEBT.

forced return of Sir James Koss, without any tMio^ ai
them, and also by the close of the arctic season. And
not only have no tidings been brought of theif safety or
of their fate, but even the very traces of their couree
have yet to be discovered ; for such was the concur-
rence of unfortunate and unusual circumstances attend-
ing the efforts of the brave and able officer alluded to,
that he was not able to reach those points where indi-
cations of the course of discovery ships would most
probably be found. And thus, at the close of a second
reason since the departure of the recent expedition of
search, we remain in nearly the samQ state -ot ignorance
respecting the missing expetlition as at the moment of
its starting from our shores. An*', in the luean time our
brave countrymen, whether clinging stili to their ships,
or dispersed m various directions, have entered upon a
fifth winter in those dark and dreary solitudes, with
exhausted means of sustenance, while yet their expected
succor comes not I

^^ It is in the time, then, of their grr^atest peril, in the
day of their extremest need, that I venture, encouraged
by your former kindness, to look to you again for some
active efforts which may come in aid of those of my
own country, and add to the means of search. Her
Majesty's Ministers have already resolved on sending
an expedition to Behring's Strait, and doubtless have
other necessary measures in contemplation, supported
as they are, in every means that can be devised mr this
humane purpose, by the sympathies of the nation, and
by the generous solicitude which our Queen is known
to teel in the fate of her brave people imperiled in their
countrv's service. But, whatever be the measures con-
terapUijed by the Admiralty, they cannot be such as
will leave no room or necessity for more, since it is
onl V by the multiplication of means, and those vigorous
and instant ones, that we can hope, at this last stage,
and in this last hour, perhaps, of the lost navigators'
existence, to snatch them from a dreary grave. And
surely, till the shores and seas of those frozen regions
have been swept in all directions, or jmtil some memo

LIEUTENANT OSBOKN^S 8UOOESTION8.

881

And
i)ty or
louroe
)ncur-
ttend-
ed to,
J indi-

most
second
ion of
orance
lent of
me our
• ships,
upon a
>8, witb
cpected

38 con-

ktch as

|e it is

)rons

stage,

cators'

And

3gion8

lemo

rial be found to attest their fate, neither England, who
sent them out, nor even America, on whose snores thej
have been launched in a cause which has interested the
world for centuries, will deem the question at r«st

" May it please God so to move the hearts and wills
of a great and kindred people, and of their chosen
Chief Magistrate, that they may join heart and hand
in the generous enterprise I The respect and admiration
of the world, which watches with growing interest every
movement of your great republic, will follow the chiv-
alric and humane endeavor, and the blessing of them
who were ready to perish shall come to youl

" I have, &o.,
(Signed) Janb Franklik

^^Hts Excellency the President of the United States.**

In a very admirable letter addressed to Lady Frank*
kin in February, 1850, by Lieut. Sherard Osbom, R. N.,
occur the following remarks and suggestions, which
appear to me so explicit and valuable that I publish
them entire : —

•

^^ Great EaUng^ Middlesex, 6th February, 1860.

" My Dear Lady Fbanklin. — It is of course of vital
importance that the generous co-operation of the Ameri-
cans in the rescue of Sir John Franklin and his crews
be directed to points w^hich call for search, and at the
same time give them a clear field for the exercise of
their energy and emulation. It would be a pity, for
instance, if they should be merely working on the same
ground with ourselves, while extensive portions of the
Arctic Sea, in which it is equally probable the lost ex-
pedition may be found, should be left unexamined ; and
none, in my opinion, offers a better prospect of success-
ful search than the coasts of Repulse Bay, Hecla and
Furv Strait, Committee Bay, Felix Harbor, the estuary
of the Great Fish River, ind Simpson's Strait, with the
sea to the northwest of it My reasons for saying so
are as follows ; —

21 N«

aa2

rSOOIiBSS OF ABGTIO DISGOYEBT.

** Suppose Sir John Franklin to have so far carried
out the tenor of his orders as to have penetrated south-
west from Gape Walker, and to hayel)een either ^ cast
away,' or hopelessly impeded by ice, and that either in
the past or present year he found it necessary to quit
his ships, they being anywhere between 100° and 108°
west longitude, and 70° and 73° north latitude. Now,
to retrace his steps to Cape Walker, and thence to Ee-
gent Inlet, would be no doubt the first suggestion that
would arise. Yet there are objections to it : firstly, he
would have to contend against the prevailing set of the
ice, and currents, and northerly wind ; secondly, if no
whalers were found in Lancaster Sound, how was he
to support his large party in regions whore the musk
ox^ or reindeer is never seen? thirdly, leaving his
ihipsin the summer, he knew he could only reach the
whaling ground in the fall of the year ; and, in such
case, would it not be advisable to make rather for
the southern than the northern limit of the seas vis-
ited by the whalers? fourtiily, by ed^in^ to the south
rather than the north, Sir John I'ranklin would be
falling back to, rather than going from, relief, and.in-
orease tJw probabilities of providing for hi«i large
party.

"I do not believe that he would have decided on going
due youth, because the lofty land of Victoria Island
was in his road, and when he did reach the American
shore, he would only attain a desert, of whose hori-ora
he no doubt retained a vivid recollection ; and a
lengthy land journey of more than 1000 miles to the
Hudson's Bay settlements was more than his men were
capable of.

UEUTENAl^T OSfiOiUi S SUGGESTIONS.

333

•lean
rrora
id a
tlie
were

by Kaquimuux and migratory animals ; and this route
is through the ^Strait of Sir James Boss,' across the
narrow isthmus of Boothia Felix, Twhich, as you re-
minded me to-day, was not supposed to exist when Sir
John Franklin left England, and has been since discov-
ered,) into the Gulf ot Boothia, where he could either
pass Ijy Hecla and Fury Strait into the fishing-ground
of Hudson's Strait, or else so southward down Commit-
tee Bay, across the Bae Isthmus into Bcuulse Bay, and
endeavor from there to reach some vessels in Hudson's
Bay, or otherwise Fort Churchill.

" It is not unlikely either, that when Franklin had
got to the eastern extremity of James Boss's Strait,
and found the land to be across his path where he had
expected to find a strait, that his party might have di-
viaed, and the more active portion of them attempted
to ascend the Great Fish Kiver, where we have Sir
George Back's -authority for supposing they would find,
close to the arctic shores, abundance of food in fish,
and herds of reindeer, &c., while the others tra^eleci
on the road I have already mentioned.

" To search for them, therefore, on this line of retreat,
I should think highly essential, and if neglected this
year, it must be done next ; and if not done by the
Americansj it ought to be done by us.

" I therefore suggest the following plan : — Suppose
a well-equipped expedition to leave America in May,
and to enter Hudson's Strait, and then divide into two
divisions. The first division mjght go northward,
through Fox's Channel to Hecla ana Fury Strait, exam
ine the shores of the latter carefully, deposit provisions
at the western extreme, erect conspicuous beacons, and
proceed to Melville or Felix Harbor, in Boothia, secure
their vessel or vessels, and dispatch, as soon as circum<
stances would allow, boat parties across the neck of
the isthmus into the western waters. Here let them
divide, and one party proceed through James Ross's
Strait, carefully examining the coast, and push over sea,
ice, or land, to the northwest as far as possible. The
other boat party to examine the estuary of the Great

534

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT

!.!h

I' t':-.

Fish River, and thenne proceed westward along th«
coast of Simpson's Strait, and, if possible, examine the
broad bay formed between it and Dease's Strait.

"The second division, on parting company, might
pass south of Southampton Island, and coast along ttom
Chesterfield Inlet northward to Repulse Bay, a boat
party with two boats might cross Rae Isthmus into the
bottom of Committee B^ay, with instructions to visi*
both shores of the said bay, and to rendezvous at the
western entrance of Hecla and Fury Strait. The sec-
ond division (be it one or more vessel8^ should then
pass into Fox'o Channel, and turning tnrough Hecla
and Fury Strait, pick up the boats at the rendezvous ;
and thence, if the first division have passed on all right,
and do not require reinforcement, the second division
should steer northward along the unknown coast, ex-
tending as far as Cape Kater ; froin Cape Kater pro-
ceed to Leopold Island, and having secured their ships
there, dispatch boat or traveling parties in a direction
southwest from Cape Rennell, in North Somerset, be-
ing in a parallel line to the line of search we shal!
adopt from L ipe Walker, and at the same time it will
traverse the unknown sea beyond the Islands latelj
observed by Captain Sir Jatnes Ross.

"Some such plan as this would, I think, insuie youi
gallant husband being met or assisted, should he be to
the south or the west of Cape Walker, and atteni],t to
return by a southeast course, a direction which, 1 think,
others as well as myself would agree in thinking a very
rational and probable one.

"I will next speak of an argument which has beer
brought forward in consequence of no traces of the
missing expedition having been discovered in Lancas-
ter Sound ; that it is quite possible, if Franklin, failed
in getting through the middle ice from Melville Bay tc
Lancaster Sound, that, sooner than disappoint public
anxiety and expectation of a profitable result arising
from his expeaition, he may have turned northward^
and gone up Smith's Sound ; every mile beyond its en-
trance was now ground, and therefore a reward to tht

DEBATE IN OONO:

881

discoverer. It likewise brought them nearer the pole,
and may be they found that open sea of which Baron
Wrangel speaks so constantly in his journeys over the
ice northward from Siberia.

''It is therefore desirable that some vessels should
carefully examine the entrance of this sound, and visit
all the conspicuous headlands for some considerable
distance within it; for it ought to be borne in mind,
that localities perfectly accessible for the purpose of
erecting beacons, &c., one season, may be quite im-
practicable the next, and Franklin, late in the season
and pressed for time, would not have wasted r^'me, scal-
ing bergs to reach the shore and pile up cairns, of
which, in all the sanguine hope of success, ne could not
have foreseen the necessity.

** Should any clue be found to the lost expedition in
this direction, to follow it up would, of course, be the
duty of the relieving party, and every thing would de-
pend necessarily upon the judgment of the commanders.

^'In connection with this line of search, I think ^
small division of vessels, starting from Spitzbergen, and
pushing from it in a northwest direction, might be of
great service ; for on reference to the chart, it will be
seen that Spitzbergen is as near the probable position
of Franklin (if he went north about,) on the east, as
Behring's Strait is upon the west ; and the probability
of reacning the meridian of 80° west from Spitzbergen
is equally as good as, if not better than, Behring's Strait, -
and, moreover, a country capable of supporting life
always in the rear to fall back upon.

'^ Shbbabo Osbobn,
"Lieutenant Royal Navy.

"To Lady Franklin."

Debate dt the Amebican CSonqbess.

The following remarks of honorable members and
senators, in defense of the bill for carrying out Mr.
GrinnelPs expedition, will explain the grounds on which
the government countenance was invoked for the noble
tvndef'taking : —

306

rU00UK36 OF AlCUTKj Dlb(X.*\ KBT.

"Mr. MiLLEK : I prefer that th« goremment sliould
have the entire control of this enterprise ; but, Sir, I
do not think that can bo accomplished ; at all events, il
cannot within the time required to produce the good
results which are to be hoped from this expedition. I*
is well known to all that tne uncertain fate of Sir Joha
Franklin and his companions has attracted the attentioi*
and called forth the sympathies of the civilized world
This government, Sir, has been indifferent to the call
An application, an appeal was made to this government
of no ordinary character ; one which was cheerfullw
entertained by the President, and which he was anxioiw
should be complied with. But it is known to the coun
try and to the Senate that, although the Presidetit had
every disposition to send out an expedition in search
of Sir John Franklin, it was found upon inquiry tha>
we had no ships fitted tor the occasion, and that th#
Executive had no authority to procure them for an ex-
pedition of this kind, and suitable for this sort of navi- '
gation. The Executive was therefore oblio^ed, forwani
of authority to build the ships, to forego further actiop
on this noble enterprise, until Congress should meet
and authorize the expedition.

"In the mean time, Mr. Grinnell, one of the mos*
respectable and worthy merchants of the city of New
York, understanding the difficulty that the government
had in fitting out the expedition, has gone to work, and
with his own means has built t^o small vessels espe-
cially prepared for the expedition ; and he now most
generously tenders them to the government, not to be
under his own control, but the control of the govern-
ment^ and to be made part of the navy of the United
States. The honorable senator from Alabama (Mr.
King) is mistaken with regard to the terms and effect
of this resolution. This resolution places these two
ships under the control of the government, as much
BO as if they were built expressly for the navy of the
United States. Their direction, their fitting out, their
officers and m'^n, are all to be under the control of
tb© Executive. Their o Ticers are to bo officers of onr

DEBATE IN COMORE88

3»7

the
eh

navy — their seamen the seamen of our navj — bo that
the expedition will be as thoroughly under the control of
this government as if the ships belonged to us. Now,
Sir, 1 should have no objections myself to amend this
resolution so as to authorize the purchase of these two
small vessels at once, and make them a part of our na
val establishment ; but, when I recollect the magnani
mous feeling which urged this noble-hearted merchant
to prepare these ships, I know that that same feeling
Would forbid him to make merchandise of that whicE
he has devoted to humanity. He offers them for this
great cause ; they are his* property, prepared for this
enterprise, and he offers them to us to be used by the
government in this great undertaking. We must either
accept them for the purpose to which he has dedicated
them, or reject them altogether. If we refuse these
ships, we will defeat the whole enterprise, and lose all
opportunity of participation in a work of humanity
which now commands the attention of the world.

" If we refer this resolution back to the committee,
and they report a bill authorizing government to build
ships to carry on the expedition on its own account, it
would be attended with very great delay, and, in my
opinion defeat the object we have in view. In a case
of this kind time is every thing. It must be done speed-
ily, if done at all. Every hour's delay may b§ worth
the life of a man. Sir John Franklin and his compan-
ions may ere this have perished, but our hope is that
they are still living in some narrow sea, imprisoned by
walls of ice, where our succor may yet reach them.
But, Sir, whether our hopes are fallacious or not, the
public feeling — the feeling of humanity — is, that the
fate of Sir John Franklin should, if possible, be ascer-
tained, and as sojn as possible. The public mind will
never be satisfied till an expedition from this country,
or from some other country, shall have ascertained their
fate. 1 therefore trust that this resolution, as it is, will
be acted upon at once, and that it will receive the
unanimous vote of the Senate. * * * *

" I am po impressed Mr. President, with the impor

S38

PKOGKESS OP AKCTIO DISCOVERT.

i r:-

tance of time as regards the disposal of this qaestion,
that I hesitate even to occupy the attention of the
Senate for a few moments ; and I onlv do so for the
purpose of correcting some views whicn have been ex-
pressed by the senator from Mississippi. * ♦ * The
quest! jii is, whether we shall adopt thip resolution, and
immediately send forth this expedition for the purpose
of accomplishing this great object, or whether we shall
throw back this resolution to drag its slow course
through Congress, in the form of another bill, to make
an appropriation for the purpose of building vessels.
For wnat object ? To secure, as the senator sa^^s, to the
United States, the sole honor and glory of this expedi-
tion. Sir, if this expedition is got up merely for honor
and fflory either to the United States or to an individual,
I wifi have nothing whatever to do with it Sir, there
is a deeper aad a higher sentiment that has induced the
action of Congress on this subject. It is to engage in
a great work of humanity, to do that which io not only
bemg done by the government of England, but by pri-
vate individuals, who are fitting out expeditions at their
own expense, and sending them to the northern seas,
for the purpo^je of discovering the fate of this great
man who had periled his life in the cause of science
and of commerce.

" Mr President, I have been informed that a private
expediUon is now being fitted out in England under th(j
direction of that great commander, or I may call him
the king of the Polar Seas, Sir John Ross, who is going
again to devote himself and liis life to t'Js ])eriiou8 ex-
pedition. Sir, altogether I have not had heretofore
much confidence in the success of this expedition, yet
when I consider the reputation of Sir John Boss, and
the fact that he is better acquainted with those seas
than any other man living, and understanding that he
entertains the belief that Sir John Franklin and his
companions are yet alive, and may be rescued, — I say
finning such a man as Sir John Ross engaged in an ex-
pedition of this kind, I am not without hope that our
efforts may, under Providence, be crowned with ^uccesft

DEBATE IN tiONGRESB.

339

But fho honorable senator says thit nothing is likely to
be derived ^om this expedition but honor nnd glory,
and that that is to be divided between the government
of the United States and a private individual. Sir, is
there nothing to be derive*.! from the performance of an
act of humanity but honor and glory? Sir, it is said
that in this instance both the government and the indi
vidual alluded to are engaged in the same work. Well
Sir, what objection can tnere be to that connection
Does the honorable senator from Mississippi envy the
individual his sliare of the honor and glory ? Does he
desire to monopolize' it all to the United States ? I hope
he has no such feeling as that.

" But, Mr. President, the honorable senator made use
of an expression which I think he will withdraw. He
intimated, if I understood him rightly, some suspicion
that this was a matter of speculation on the part of Mr.
Grinnell.

" Mr. FooTE : I said I had lieard such a thing sug
gested ; but I do not make any such charge myself.

"Mr. Miller: I lave heard this urged as an objec-
tion heretofore, but I am satisfied that if the senator
from Mississippi knew the character and the history of
this gentleman, he would not even repeat tliat he nad
heard such an insinuation. Sir, althc gh this is a
liberal donation from an individual, the sum need not
alarm gentlemen about after claims. These ships are
but small ships ; and it is necessarv that they sliould be
Bmall in order that they may be effective. One of them
is, I underst.ind, 150 tons, and the other 90 tons. They
have cost, I believe, 30,000 dollars. Now, when we
find this merchant devoting his property, not tor the
purpose of building'ships to convoy merchandise to the
markets of the world ; when >r? find him retiring from
the ordinary coiuse of commei dal pursuit in which all
the world is engaged, and dc ^oting a portion of his
fortune to the building of ships that can be used for no
other purpose but in this voyag i of humanity, can it be
imagined that any thought of speculation on his part
could nave influenced his conduct ? No, Sir. Or tho

I «

1 !i

Fh'

Z40

PBOGBESS OF ABOTIO DISOOVSBY.

h'l-

I !

contrary, it is a high and worthy motive ; and I think
it ought to receive the approbation of this and all other
intelligent Christian nations, to see a merchant, who,
while the commercial world are encompassing the
globe by sea and land in quest of profit and .of gold, is
dedicatmff himself to his great object, and devoting a
part of his fortune to the cause of humanity, and olter-
ing to government, not as a bounty, but because the
government, with all its means, has not the power and
the time to prepare vessels to do this work. That, Sir,
is the object.

" Now, if we do not accept these ships, there will be
an end of this expedition. Sir, shall it be said, that
this government has lost such an opportunity as this of
exhibiting the deep interest which our people feel both
in the cause of science and humanity, and that, too, at
the very time when we are entering into treaties and com-
pacts with all the commercial nations oi the world, for
the purpose of extending commerce and civilization,
and opening communications of tjade from sea to sea?
"When the government is not only doing all by its own
power, but also acting in concert with our private citi-
zens in constructing rail-roads and canals, and by vari-
ous other modes extending commercial civilization
throughout the world, shall it be said that we, at this
moment, refused, through the fear of losing a little
honor and glory and national dignity, to accept two
ships — the only two ships in America that can do the
work — in the accomj)lishmcnt of this great enterprise ?
I hope not. Li3t us not, then, cavil and waste time
about these little matters. If the work is to be done
at all it must be done now, and done, as I conceive, by
the adoption of this resolution.

Governor Seward spoke as follows in the Senate
on the same subject : — "I am happy to perceive, Mr.
President, indications all around trie chamber that there
is no disagreement in regard to the importance, or in
relation to the propriety, of a search on the part of this
nation, by the government itself or by individual citi«
Bens, for the lost and heroic navigator. Since so mucb

ite
[r.
ire
in
lis
fti.
icb

DEBATE IN CONGRESS.

341

*fl conceded, and since I come from the State whence
this proposition emanates, I desire to notice, in a very
few words, the objections raised against the mode of
carrying the proposed design into effect. It is always
the case, I think, when great objects and great enter
prises which are feasible are hindered or defeated, that
they are hindered or defeated, not so much by want of
agreement concerning the measures themselves, as by
diversity of opinion concerning tlie mode of carrying
them into execution. Since this is so generally the
case, the rule which I always adopt, and which seems
to be a safe one, is, that where I cannot have my own
way of obtaining a great public object, I will accept
the best other way which opens before me. Now, I
cordially agree with those honorable Senators wlio
would have preferred that at some appropriate time,
and in some proper and unobjectionable manner, the
government should have moved frr the attainment of
this object, as a government, and have made it exclu-
sively the act of the nation. And I would have pre-
ferred this, not so much on account of the glory that it
is supposed would have followed it, as becr^se of the
beneficence of the enterprise. Enterprise- wliich
spring from a desire of glory are very apt to end in
disappointment. True national glory is alwaj'^s safely
attained by prosecuting beneficent designs, whatever
may be their success. I say, Sir, then, that I would
have preferred the alternative suggested ; but the fact
is, without stopping to inquire where the fault lies, or
whether there be fault at all, the government has not
moved, and the reason which has been assigned is, I
have no doubt, the true one. I do not know that it
has ever been contradicted or called in question ; that
reason is, that the Navy of the United States contains
no vessels adapted to the enterprise, but consists of
ships constructed and fitted for very different objects
ana purposes than an exploring expedition amid the
ice-bound seas of the arctic pole. Our naval marine
consists of vessels adapted to the purposes of convoys,
military armament, and the suppression of the %'\9^y%'

342

PROGHESS OF AHOTIC DISCOVERT.

trade on the coast of Africa. The executive portion!
of the government failed for want of vessels suitable
to be employed in this particular service. It therefore
devolved upon the Legislature of the United States.
But, although we have been here now nearly five
months, no t/ommittee of either House, no member of
either House of Congress has pro])ose(' to equip a na-
tional fleet for this purpose. While this fact exists on
one side, it is to be remarked on the other, that the
time has arrived in which the movement must be made
if it is to be made at all, and also that a careful inves-
tigation, made by scientific and practical men, has re-
vived the hope in Europe and America that the humane
object can be attained. There can, then, be no delay
allowed for considering whether the manner for carry-
ing the design into effect could not be changed. Let
us, then, practically survey the case as it comes before
us. The government of the United States has really
no vessels adapted to the purpose. To say nothing of
the expense, the government has not time to provide,
prepare, or equip vessels for the expedition. Under
such circumstances, a citizen of the United States
tenders to the government vessels of his own, precisely
adequate in number, and exactly fitted in construction
and equipment, for the performance of the duty to be
assumed. Since he ofl'ers tliem to the government,
what reason can we assign for rei'nsing them ? No
reason can be assigned, except that he is too generous,
and offers to give us the use of the vessels instead of
demanding compensation for it. Well, Sir, if we do
accept them it can be immediately carried into execu-
tion, with a cheering prospect of attaining the great
object which the United States and the civilized world
have such deep interest in securing. Then the ques-
tion resolves itself into this — the question raised by
the honorable Senator from Alabama (Mr. King) —
whether, in seeking so beneficent an object, it is ' on-
iist.ent with the dignity of the nation to combine indi-
vidual action with a national enterprise. I do not
<%ink. Mr. President, that that honorable Senator wil*

DEBATE IN CONGRESS.

313

find himself obliged to insist upon this objection after
he shall have carefully examined the bill before us
He will tind that it converts the undertaking into a
natit)nal enterprise. The vessels are to be accepted
not as individual property, but as national vessels
They will absolutely cease to be undor the direction,
management, or control of the owners, and will become
at once national ships, and for the time, at least, and
for all the purposes of the expedition, a part of the
national marine.

"Now, Sir, have we not postal arrangements with
various foreign countries carried into effect in the same
way, and is the dignity of the nation compromised by
them ? During the war with Mexico, the government
continually hired ships and steamboats from citizens foi
military operations. Is the glory of that war tarnished
ny the use of those means ? The government in this
case, as in those cases, is in no sense a partner. It
assumes the whole control of tlie vessels, and the enter-
prise becomes a national one. The only circumstance
remaining to be considered is, whether the government
can accept the loan of the service of the vessels without
making compensation. Now, Sir, I should not have had
the least objection, and, indeed, it would have been
more agreeable to me if the government could have
made an arrangement to have paid a compens.ation.
lint I hold it to be quite unnecessary in the present
»ase because the character of the person who tenders
these vessels, and the circumstances and manner of the
whole transaction, show that it is not a speculation.
No compensation is wanted. It would only bo a cere-
mony on the part of the government to offer it, and a
ceremony on the part of the merchant to decline it. I
am, therefore, willing to march directly to the object,
and to assume that these ceremonies have been duly
performed, that the government has offered to pay, and
the no])le-spirited merchant declined to receive.

"Now, then, is there any thing derogatory from the
dignity and indej)endence of this nation in employing
the vessels ? Certainly not, since that employment it

rRCOllliSS OF APwCTTC DISCOVERT.

/ '

indispensable. If it were not indispensable I do nol
think that the dignity of the Ilepiiblic would be im-
paired ; I think, on the contrary, that it would be en-
hanced and elevated. It is a transaction worthy of tlio
nation, a spectacle deserving the contemplation and
respect of mankind, to see that not only does the nation
prosecute, but that it has citizens al)le and willing to
contribute, voluntarily and witliout compulsion, to an
enterprise so interesting to tlie cause of science and of
humanity. It is indeed a new and distinct cause for
national pride, tliat an individual citizen, not a merchant

Erince, as he would be called in some other countries,
ut a republican merchant, comes forward in this way
and moves the government and co-operates witli it. It
illustrates the magnanimity of the nation and of the
citizen. Sir, there is nothing objectionable in this fea-
ture of the transaction. It I'esults from the character
of the government, whi-ch is essentially popular, that
there are perpetual debates on the question how far
measures and enterprises, for the purposes of humanity
and science, are consistent with the constitutional or-
ganization of the government, although they are ad-
mitted to be eminently compatible with the dignity,
chara iter, and intelligence of the nation. All our en-
terprises, more or less, are carried into execution, if
they are carried into execution at all, not by the direct
action of the government, bit l^y tlie lording of its
favor, countenance, and aid ^c individuals, to corpora-
tions, and to States. Thus it is that we construct rail-
roads and canals, and found colleges and universities.
" iSTor is this mode of prosecuting enterprises of great
pith and moment peculiar to this government. There
was a navigator who went forth from a port in Spain,
some three or four hundred years ago, on an enterprise
quite as doubtful and quite as perilous as this. Atltcr
trying unsuccessfully several States, he was forced to bo
content with the sanction, and little more than the sanc-
tion and patronage of the Court of Madrid. The scanty
treasures devoted to that undertaking were the private
contributions of a Queen and her subjects, and tlie ve*

DEBATE IN CONGRESS.

.345

J«'

Bels were fitted out and manned at tlic expense ofmer
cliants and citizens, wliicli gave a new world to tlio
kingdom of Castile and Leon.

" Ente. .ainiiig these views now, wlfiitevcr my opinion
might have been nnder other circumstances, I shall vote
agair.st a rccommittjil, and in favor of the bill, as rho
surest way of preventing its defeat, and of attaining the
sublime and beneficent object which it contemjlates."

The committee of both llouses of Congress, to whom
Mr. Grinnell's petition for men and supplies was re-
ferred, made a unanimous report in favor ; and tho
vessels left on their daring and generous errand.

The following are the joint resolutions which passed
both Houses of Congress and were approved by Gen-
eral Taylor, authorizing the President of the United
States to accept and attach to the U. S. Navy the two
vessels, offered by Mr. Grinnell, to be sent to the arctic
seas in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions:

" Resolved by the Senate and House of Represent-
atives of the United States of America in Congress
assembled, That the President be, and he is hereby
authorized and directed, to receive from Henry Grinnell^
of the city of New Yoi'k, the two vessels prepared by
liim for an expedition in search of Sir Jolm Franklin
and his companions, and to detail from the Navy such
commissioned and warrant officers, and so many sea-
men as may be necessary for said expedition, and who
inay bo willing to engage therein. The said officers
and men shall bo furnished with suitable rations, at tho
discretion of the President, for a period not exceeding
three years, and shall have the use of such necessary
instniments as are now on hand and can be spared from
the Navy, to be accounted for or returned by the offi
cers who shall receive the ^^ame.

" Sec. 2. Be it further resolved, That the said vessels,
officers, and men shall be in all respects under the laws
and regulations of the Navy of tho United States until
their return, when tho said vessels shall be delivered
to the said Henry Grinnell : Provided, That the United
States shall not bo liable t<l*feny claim for compensation

'•*;.
'■■{i

346

PROORKSB OP ARanO DISCOVERY.

■I !-■

■J :■

In ca^e of the loss, damage or deterioration of tlie said
vessels, or either of them, from any cause or in any
manner whatever, nor be liable to any demand for the
use or risk of the^said vessels or either of them."

Directly the fact became known that the American
government had nobly come forward to aid in the search
which was being so strenuously made, the different
learned societies of the metropolis vied with each otlier
in testifying the estimation in which this noble conduct
was held.

At the annual meeting of the Royal Society, on the
7th of June, upon tlie motion of Sir Charles Lennox,
seconded by the late Marquis of Nortliampton, a vote
of thanks was carried with the utmost enthusiasm, ex-
pressive of the gratitude of the Society to the American
government, and of their deep sense of the kind and
brotherly feeling which had prompted so liberal an act
of humanity. A similar vote was carried, on the 11th
of June, at a general meeting of the Royal Geograph-
ical Society, (of which Sir John Franklin was long one
of the vice-presidents.)

The American expedition consists of two brigantines
— now enrolled in tne United States Navy — the Ad-
vance, of 144 tons, and the Rescue, 91 tons. These
vessels have been provided and fitted out by the gener-
ous mTinificence of Mr. Henry Grinnell, ., merchant of
New York, at an expense to him of between 5000^. and
6000^. The American government also did much to^
^rard fitting and equipping them. The Advance was
two years old, and the Rescue quite new. Both vessels
were strengthened in every part, and put in the most
complete order for the service in which they were to be
eno^aged. They are under the command of Lieutenant
Edward S. De Haven, who was employed in Com-
mander Wilkes' expedition in 1843 ; Mr. S. P. Griffin,
acting master, has charge of the Rescue. The other
oflicers of the expedition are Messrs. "W. H. Murdaugh,
acting-master ; T. W. Broadhead, and R. R. Carter,
passed midshipmen ; Dr. E. K. Kane, passed assistant-
surgeon ; Mr. Benjamin Fiidand, assists' vsnrgeon ; "W

les

THE AMERICAN EXPEDITION.

847

S. Lovell, midshipman ; 11. Brooks, boatswain ; and c
complement of thirty-six seamen in the two vessels —
the crew of the Advance consisting of fifteen men, and
the Rescue thirteen men. The vessels left New York
on the 25th of May, 1850. Their proposed destinati(>n
ig through Barrow's Strait, westward to Caj)e Walkei,
and round Melville Island. They were i)rovisioned for
three years.

Whatever may be the result of this expedition, as
connected with the fate <»f the gallant Sir John Frank-
lin, it is one which reflects the bighest honor upon the
philanthropic individual who projected it, and upon the
officers and men engaged therein.

A dispatch has been received from Lieutenant Do
Haven, dated oif Leopold Island, August 22d, which
reports the progress of the expedition tlius far. The
Advance, in company with her consort, the Rescue,
Bailed from the Whale Fish Islands on the 29th of June;
after many delays and obstructions from calms, stream
ice, and the main pack, they forced a passage through
it for a considerable distance, but at last got wedged up
in the pack immovably until the 29th of July, when
by a sudden movement of the floes, an opening pre-
sented itself, and under a press of sail the vessels forced
their way into clear water. They encountered a heavy
gale, which, with a thick fog, made their situation very
dangerous, the huge masses of ice being driven along
by the strength of the wind and current with great
fury. By the aid of warping in calm weather, thoy
reached Cape Yorkeon the 15th of August, and a little
to the eastward met with two Esquimaux, but could not
understand much from them. Between Cape York©
and Cape Dudley Diggs, while delayed by calms, being
in open water, they hauled the ships into the shore at
t lie Crimson Cliffs of Beverley, (so named from the red
enow on them,) and filled their water casks from a
mountain stream.

On the 18th, with a fair wind, they shaped their conrso
for the western side of Baffin's Bay, and met the pack in
streams and very loose, which they cleared entirely by
22 O

848

PROOIiP:SS OF AKCriC IJISCOVEKY.

i ;■

I- ': '

the following day — getting into tlie north waters, where
they feW in with Captain Penny's two vessels, wliich
having been nnsnccesstul in their efforts to enter Jones'
Souno, were now taking the same course up Lancastui
Sound. On the 19th, in a violent gale, the Advance
parted company witli the Rescue. On the morning of
the 21st of August, the fog cleared, and Lieutenant Da
Haven found lie was off Cape Crawford, on the south
em shore of the Sound. Hero he fell in with the Felix
schooner, under Captain Sir John Ross, from wliom lie
learned that Commodore Austin was at Pond's Bay with
two of his vessels, seeking for information, while tlio
other two had been dispatched to examine the north
shore of the Sound. Lieutenant De ITaven proposed
proceeding on from Port Leopold to Wellington Chan-
nel, the appointed place of rendezvous with nis consort.

Caitain Forsyth's Remarkable Voyage in the ^
"Prince Ai^bert."

In April, 1850, a branch expedition to aid those ves-
sels sent out by the government was determined on by
Lady Franklin, who contributed largely toward its out-
fit ; a considerable sum being also raised by public
subscription. The expenses of this expedition M^ero
nearly 4000^., of which 2500/. were contributed by Lady
Franklin herself. The object of this expedition was
the providing for the search of a portion of the Arctic
Sea, which it was distinctly understood could not be
executed by the vessels under Captain Austin ; but tlie
importance of which had been set forth, by arctic and
other authorities, in documents printed in the Parlia-
mentary Papers.

The unprovided portion alluded to, includes Regent
Inlet, and the passages connecting it with the western
Bea, James Ross's Strait, and other localities, S. W. of
Cape Walker, to which quarter Sir John Franklin was
required by his instructions to proceed in the first in-
stance. This search is assumed to be necessary on tlie
following grounds : —

T07A0E OF TUB. riClKCIfi A.LLKRT.

349

nt
ni
of
as
n-

119

1. The probability of Sir John Franklin having
iibandoned \m vessels to tlie S. W. of Capo Walker.

2. The fact that, in his charts, an open passage :s
laid down from the west into the south part of Regcnl
[nlot.

3. Sir John Franklin would bo more likely to take
this course thruugli a country known to possess the re-
sources of animal life, with the wreck of the Victory
ill Felix Harbor tor fuel, and the stores of Fury Beach
farther north in view, than to fall upon an utterly barren
region of the north coast of America.

4. He would be more likely to expect succor to be
sent to him by way of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's
Strait, into which Regent Inlet opens, than in any
other direction.

In corroboration of the necessity of this part of the
search, I would refer generally to the Parliamentary
|)aj)er8 of 1848-9 and 50. As an individual opinion,!
may quote the words of Captain Beechey, p. 31 of the
first series. " If, in this condition," (that of being
}io])ele8sly blocked up to the S. W. of Cape Walker,)
" which I trust may not be the case. Sir John Franklin
shfmld resolve upon taking to his boats, he would prefer
attempting a boat navigation through Sir James Koss'a
Strait, and iip Regent Inlet, to a long land journey
across the continent to the Hudson Bay Settlements,
to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly
unequal." And again, in his letter to the Secretary
(»f the Admiralty, 7th of February, 1850, Captain
Beechey writes, « * * * * the bottom of Regent Inlet,
about the Polly Islands, should not be left unexamined.
In the memorandum submitted to their Lordships, ITtli
of January, 1849, this quarter was considered of im-
portance, and I am still of opinion that had Sir Johr
''ranklin abandoned his vessels near the coast of
America, and much short of the Mackenzie River, he
would have preferred tiie probability of retaining the
use of his boats until he found relief in Barrow's Strait,
to risking an overland journey via the before-men-
tioned river; and it must be remembered that at the

;

850

PS00RK8B or ARCmO DI800VBRT.

1 I

timo he Bailed, Sir Georee BacVs discovery had reik
dcrod it very ])robablo tnat Boothia was an island.

Tho momoraiidnm alluded to by Captain JJuccho^
as havinff been submitted to the Lords of the Admi*
raUy ontlio 17th of January, 1849, was, tlio oxprcHsion
of tho unanimous opinion of the arctic ofticors assem-
bled by command of the Admiralty to deliberate upon
the bent means t<> be taken for the relief of the missing
expedition ; and in this re}»ort, clause 14 is expressly
devoted to the recommendation of tho search of liegent
Tnlct.

The necessity for the proposed search may bo thus
further developed. Sir .iohn Franklin may have aban-
doned his 8hi])9, when his provisions were nearly ex-
hausted somewhere about the latitude of 73° N., long.
105'' VV. ; in short, at any point S. W. of Cape Walker,
not further W. than long. 110°. And in such case,
rather than return north, (which might bo indeed im-
practicable) or moving south u])()n the American Con-
tinent, of which (upon the coast,) the utter barrenness
was already well Known to hini, lie might prefer a
southeastern course, with a view of passing in his boats,
either through James Ross's, or tlirougli Simpson's
Straits, into the Gulf of Boothia, and so up into Regent
Inlet to the house and stores left at Fury Beach, the
only depot of provisions known to him. The advantages
of such a course might appear to him very great.

1. Two open passages Ixiing laid down in his charts
into Regent Inlet, by James Ross's Strait, and by Simp-
son's Strait, a means of boat transport for his party
wf>uld bo aiibrded, of which alone perhaps their ex-
hausted strength and resources niight admit; such a
course would obviously recommend itself to a «om-
mander who had experienced the frightful difficulties
of a land journey in those regions.

2. The proposed course would lead through a part,
the Isthmus of Boothia, in which animal life is known
at some seasons to abound.

3. The Esquimaux who have been found on the
Isthmus of Boothia are extremely well disposed and
friendly.

TOYAOK OF TIIK I'KINCE ALUKliT.

3^il

4. It 18 the direct route toward the habitual vfarl)
res'jrt ot'tlie wlialcrs on the west coast of Baffin h r>i/y
and DavJH* Strait; indeed those .^iiips occasloiuillv do-
sctnd liegent Inlet to a conHid(;rahle dlHtance soutii.

fl. Tliero are two persons attached to the expedition
who are well acnuainted witli this region ana its re
Bonrces — viz., Mr. lilanky, ice master, and Mr. Mac
Doiiald, assistant surgeon, of tlie Terror. The forme
was with Sir John Itoss in the Victory. The lattei
has made several voyages in whaling vesselB and is
accpiainted with the parts lying between Regent InU^t
a Ml Davis' Strait. VVhere so tew among the crews of
the missing ships have had any local experience, the
concurrent knowledge of two persons would have
considerable weight.

6. Opinions are very greatly divided as to the part
m whicli Sir John Franldin's party may have been ar-
rested, and as to the course they may have taken in
eonsequence. It woidd be therefore manifestly unfair,
i)nd most dangerous, to reason out and magnify any one
hypothesis at the expense of the others. The plan here
alluded to sought to provide for the probability of tho
Expedition having been stopped shortly after passing to
the southwest of Cape Walker. Tlie very open season
li' 1845 was followed by years of unusual severity until
1849. It is therefore very possible that retreat as well
as onward progress has been impossible — that siifety
alone has become their last object. The hope of rescu-
ing them in their last extremity depends, then, (as far
as human means can insure it,) on the multiplying of
simultaneous efforts in every direction. Ca}.«tain Aus-
tin's vessels will, if moving in pairs, take two most im-
portant sections only, of tlie general search, and will
find they have enough to do to reach their several points
of operation this season.

The necessity for this search was greatly enhanced
ny the intelligence received about this time in England
of the arrival of Mr. Eae and Commander Pnllen at
the Mackenzie River, thus establishing the fact, that
Sir John Franklin's party had not reached any part of

! IE

I I

' * IB

I i
t

mmmmtammmmSm

M I

I I

352

PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISOOVERY,

the coast between Behring's Strait and the Coppermine
River, while the check which Mr. Rae received in
Ills course to the north of the Coppermine, tended to
give increased importance to the quarter eastward of
tliat position.

Commander Charles Codrinffton Forsyth, E. N., an
enterprising young officer, who had not long previously
been promoted in consequence of his arduous services
in surveying on the Australian, African, and American
she res, pnd who liad rendered good service to the gov.
ernment by landing supplies on the east coast of Africa,
under circumstances of great difficulty during the Kafir
war, had volunteered unsuccessfully for all the govern-
ment expeditions, but was permitted by the Admiralty
to command this private branch expedition, in which
he embarked without fee or reward — on the noble and
honorable mission of endeavoring to relieve his long-
imprisoned brother oflicers.

The Prince Albei-t, a small clipper vessel of about
ninety tons, originally built by Messrs. White, of Cowes,
in October, 1848, for the fruit trade, v^as accordingly
hastily fitted out afjd dispatched from Aberdeen, and
Cii})tHin Forsyth was instructed to winter, if possible,
in Brentford Bay, in Regent Inlet, and thence send
})arties to explore the opposite side of the isthmus and
the vanor.3 sliores and bays of the Inlet She had a
crew of twenty, W. Kay and "W. Wilson acting as first
and second mates, and Mr, W. P. Snow as clerk. She
sailed on the 5th of June, and was consequently the
last vessel that left, and yet is the first that has reached
home, having also brought some account of the track
of Franklin's expedition.

The Prince Albert arrived oflf Cape Farewell, July
2(1, entered the ice on the 19th, and on the 21st, came
up with Sir John Ross in a labyrinth of ice. She pro-
ceeded up Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, fell in
with most of the English ships in those seas, and also
with the American brig Advance, sailing some time in
company, and attempted to en^er Regent Inlet and Wel-
lington Channel. Shf left thr Advance aground neai

VOYAGE OF THE rBINOJffl ALBERT.

853

Cape Riley, at the entrance of Wellington Channel,-
though not in a situation supposed to oe c^angei-ous.
Commander Forsyth, in his ofhcial letter to the LorJa
of the Admiralty, says that " traces of tlie missing ex-
pedition under Sir John Franklin liad been found at
Cape Riley and Becehey Island, at the entrance to the
Wellington Channel. We observed five places where
tents had been pitched, or stones placed as if they had
been used for keeping the lower part of the tents down,
also great ciuantlties of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a
piece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on ir,
(yellow^ part of which I have inclosed." Having m
tered Wellington Channel, and examined the coast as
far as Point Innis, and finding no fni-ther traces of the
missing vessels, and it being impraciicable to penetnite
further to the west, Commander Forsyth returned to lie;
gent Inlet, but meeting no openin;^ there, the seaoun
oeing near at hand when the ice begins to form, and
his vessel not of a strength wl>Tch would enable it to
resist a heavy pressure of ice, he detennined on retinn-
ing without further delay to England, after examining
a number of point? nlong the coast.

On the 25th of August, a signal staff being observed
on shore at Cape Riley, Mr. Snow was sent by Captain
Forsyth to examine it. lie Ibund that the Assistance,
Captain Ommaney, had been there two days before, and
had left the following notice : —

" This is to certi^^-^ that Captain Ommaney, with the
officers of her Majesty's ships Assistance and Intrepid,
landed upon Cape Riley ot^ the 23d xVugust, 1850, where
he found traces of encam^^ments, ?ln<l collected the re-
mains of materials, which evidently proved that some
pai'ty belonging to her Majesty's ships had been de-
tained on that spot. Beechey Island was also examined,
where traces were found or the same party. Tliis is
also to give notice that a supply of provisions and fuel
:8 at Cape Riley. Since 16th August, they have ex
amined tne north shore of Lancaster Souna and Bar-
row's Strait, without meeting with any other tracen.
Captain Omnianey proceeds to Cape Ilotham and Cap*

i I

'1 I

354

PTiOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

,1 \\

1 '

!.v

iff ^

Walker in search of further traces of Sir John Frank-
lin's expe^iition. Dated on board her Majesty's ship
Assistance, off Cape Riley, the 23d August, 1850."

The seamen who were dispatclied from the Assistance
to examine these remains, found a rope with the naval
mark, evidently belonging to a vessel which had been
fitted out at Wooiwicb, and which, in all probability,
was either the Erebus or the Terror. Other indications
were also noticed, which showed that some vessel had
visited the place besides the Assistance. Captain For-
syth left a notice that the Prince Albert had called off
Cape Kiley on the 25th of August, and then bore up
to the eastward. Captain Forsyth landed at Posses-
sion Bay on the 29th August, but nothing was found
there to repay the search instituted.

The Prince Albert arrived at Aberdeen, on the 22d
of October, after a quick passage, having been absent
something less than four months.

Captain Forsyth proceeded to London by the mail
train, taking with him, for the infonnation of the Ad-
miralty, the several bones, (beef, pork, &c.,) which were
found on Cape Riley, together with a piece of rope of
about a foot and a half in length, and a small piece of
canvas with the Queen's mark upon it, both in an ex-
cellent state of preservation ; placing it almost beyond
a doubt that they were left on that spot by the expedi-
*>on under Sir John Franklin.

<Japtain' Forsyth, during his short trip, explored re-
gions whicli Sir James Ross was unable to reach the
previous year. He was at Wellington Channel, and
penetrated to Fury Beacli, where Sir E. Parry aban-
doned his vessel, (the Fury,) in 1825, after she lad
taken the ground. It is situated in about T2° 40' N.
lat^ude, and 91° 50' AY. longitude. This is a point
vhich has not been '•eached by any vessel for twenty
years past. It was foimd, however, utterly impossible
to land thfire on account of the packed ice. The whole
of the coasts of Baffin's Bay have also now been visited
without result.

The intelligence wliich Capt Forsyth brought home

1 «

<! (1

o
o

'- B

- 1

1.:!]

pM.li

TOTAGE OF THE PEINOB ALBKBT.

SSft

has, as a matter of coarse, excited the most intense in-
terest in na^al circles, and among the fHdnds and rela-
tives of the parties absent in the Erebus and Terror,
the more so masmuch as it has been ascertained at
Chatliam Dockyard that the rope which Captain For-
syth found on the spot when he visited it, and copied
Capt. Ommaney's notice, is proved by its yellow mark
to have been manufactured there, and certainly since
1824: ; and moreover, from inquiries instituted, very
strong evidence has been elicited in favor of the belief
that the rope was made between the years 1841 and
1849. That the trail of the Franklin expedition, or
some detachment of it, has been struck, there cannot
be the slightest doubt in the mind of any one who has
read the dispatches and reports. That Captain Om-
maney felt satisfied on this score is evident from the
terms of the paper he left behind him. The squadron,
it appears, were in full cry upon the scent on the 25th
of August, and we must wait patiently, but anxiously,
for the next accounts of the results of their indefatiga-
ble researches, which can hardly reach us from Bar-
row's Strait before the autumn of 1851.

There can be no doubt now in the mind of any one,
that the Arctic Searching Expeditions have at length
come ^on traces, if not the track of Sir John Frank-
lin. The accounts brought by Captain Forsyth must
have at least satisfied the most desponding that there
is still hope left — that the ships have not mundered in
Baffin's Bay, at the outset of the voyage, nor been
crushed in the ice, and barned bv a savage tribe of
Esquimaux, who had murdered the crew. That the
former might have happened, all must admit ; but to
tlie latter, few, we imagine, will give their assent, no^
witnstanding tlie numerous cruel rumors promulgated
from time to time. It would be idle to dwell upon so
impossible an event. Where could this savage tribe
gpnng from ? Mr. Saunders describes the natives of
Wolstenholme Sonnd as the most miserable f^nd help*
less of mortals. They had no articles obtained from
Europeans ; and he was of opinion that then^ were do

iw! '

!''^

l;'*^

»' 1 1

1 1

856

PBOOBESS OF ABOTIO OISOOVEBT.

settlements further north ; and if there were, doubtlesi
they would be even more impotent than these wretched
beines. That the ship misht have foundered all must
admit. Hie President did so with many a gallant soul
on board. The Avenger ran on the Sjrelli, and 300
brave fellows, in an instant, met with a watery grave ;
and till the sea shall give up her dead, who can count
the thousands that lie beneath the billows of the mightv
ocean ? We have now certain evidence that Franklin^s
ships did not founder — not, at least, in Baffin's Bay ;
and our own belief, (says a well-informed and compe-
tent writer in the Morning Herald,) is that the pennant
still floats in the northern breeze, amid eternal regions
of snow and ice.

The voyage performed by the Prince Albert has thus
been the means of keeping alive our hopes, and of in-
forming us, up to a certain point, of the progress of
the expeditions, and the situation of the dinerent ships,
of which we might have been left in a state of utter
ignorance till the close of this year. Every thing con-
nected with the navigation of the arctic seas is a
chaifce, coupled, of course, with skill ; and in looking
at this voyage performed by Lady Franklin's little
vessel, it must be obvious to every one that Captain
Forsyth has had the chance of an open season, and the
skill to make use of it.

" Live a thousand years," and we may never pee such
another voyage perrormed. We have only to look at
all that have preceded. Parry, it is true, in one year
ran to Melville Island, and passing a winter, got back
to England the following season — and this is at present
the ne plus ultra of arctic navigation. Sir John Ross,
we know, went out in the Victory to Regent Inlet, and
was frozen in for four years, and all the world gave
him up for lost — but "there's life in the old dog yet,'*
as the song has it.
. Sir James Ross was frozen in at Leopold Harbor,
and only got out, afle** T^assing a winter, to be carried
away in a floe of ice into Baffin's Bay, which no human
ekill could prevent

CAPTAIN m'cLINTOCk's

EXPEDITION.

357

Sir George Back was to make a summer's cruise to
Wager Inlet, and return to England. The result every
one knows or may make himself acquainted with, by
reading the fearful voyage of the 'Terror,' an abstract of
which has already been given. It would be superfluous to
enumerate all of the long series of polar voyages, but
it is not improbable that Captain Forsyth's voyage, per-
formcl in the summer months of 1850, will be handed
down to posterity as one of the most remarkable, if not
the most remarkable, that has ever been accomplished in
the arctic seas — the expedition consisting of one solitary
small vessel.

The main object of the voyage, it is true, had not been
accomplished, but as all the harbors in Regent Inlet were
frozen up, and it was utterly impossible to cut through a
vast tract of ice, extending for perhaps four or five miles,
to get the ship to a secure anchorage, under these circum-
stances, Captain Forsyth had no alternative but to return,
and in doing so, he has, in the opinion of all the best-in-
formed officers, displayed great good sense and judgment
rather than remain frozen in at the Wellington Channel,
where he only went to reconnoiter, and where he had no
business whatever, his instructions being confined to
itegent Inlet.

Addendat-Last Years of Lady Jane Franklin-
Capt. Francis McClintock's search in the " Fox
— Sir John Franklin's
iiTii, 1S47.

fate — His D|:ath, June

Lady Jane Franklin, the second wife of Sir John Frank-
lin, to whose unwearied energy, devotion, and hopeful-
ness, when hope had sunk in all other hearts, we are in-
debted for the knowledge of the fate of her gallant hus-
band, was the daughter of John Griffen, Esq., of Bedford
Place, London, and v/as married to Sir John Franklin in
November, 1826. English and American seamen, whalers
and scientists were equally and emulously stimulated by
her large rewards, her indefatigable voice and her pen, to
search for the missing Erebus and Terror, which were last

I an

»5d

PltoGBESS OF ABSTIO DISCOYXBT.

I i

:^ I'

seen in July, 1845. In the course of eleven years from
1845 to 1857, upwards of twenty separate expeditions, at
the cost of over $5,000,000 and hundreds of precious lives
went out to look for the missing crews. The fate of Sir
John and his men was only definitely ascertained in 18^9,
by Capt. Francis McCiintock, commander of the * Fox, a
little vessel of 177 tons, formerly the pleasure yacht
of Sir Richard Sutton, which was purchased, and
fitted out and furnished with a crew of 24 volunteers
by Lady Franklin in 1857. It then appeared that Frank-
lin had died on the nth June, 1847, in the 62d year
of his age, fortunately before his sympathetic heart
had been lacerated by witnessing the awful suflfenngs of
his men. Lady Franklin's interest in Arctic explorations
did not terminate with the discovery of her husband's fate ;
it never flagged up to her last illness and death in 1875.

The adventures and important discoveries of McCiintock
and his crew, among which were the Esquimau Car'
Petersen, interpreter, the famous companion of Dr. Kanc^
«U1 be related in their proper place in this history.

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THE AMERICAN AROnO EXPEDITIOK.

The Fibst Gbinnell Expedition m the Advanob and
Bbsoue, sent out bt Henbt Gbinnell, Esq., undkb
oosodAND OF Lieutenant De Haven, in the tkabi
1850 AND 1851.

The safe return of the expedition sent out by Mr
Henry Grinnell, an opulent merchant of New York city
in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions, is
an event of much interest ; and the voyage, though not
resulting in the discovery of the long-absent manners,
presents many considerations satisfactory to the j)artie8
.mmediately concerned, and the American public in
general.

Mr. Grinnell's expedition consisted of only two small
brigs, the Advance of 140 tons ; the Rescue of only ^
tons. The former had been engaged in the Havana
trade ; the latter was a new vessel built (or the mer-
chant service. Both were strengthened lor the arctic
voyage at a heavy cost. They were then placed under
the directions of our Navy Board, and subject to naval
regulations, as if in permanent service. The command
was given to Lieut. E. De Haven, a young naval oflBcer
who accompanied the United States exploring expedi-
tion. The result has proved that a better choice could
not have been made. His officers consisted of Mr.
Murdgch, sailing-master ; Dr. E. K. Kane, surgeon and
naturalist ; and Mr. Lovell, midshipman. The A dvance
had a crew of twelve men when she sailed ; two of them
complaining of sickness, and expressing a desire to
return home, were left at the Danisli settlement at Disco
Island, on the coast of Greenland.

The Expedition left New York on the 28d of May
1850, and was absent a little more than sixtec^r. months
They passed the eastern extremity of Nev/foundland

362

PEOGIUESS €Sr ABCTTtL DISCOVERT.

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ten days after Itr^ng Sandy Hock, and then sailed
east-northeast, directly for Cape Comfort, on the coast
of Greenland. The weather was generally fine, and
only a single accident occurred on the voyage to that
country ot frost and snow. Off the coast of Xabradoi
they met an iceberg making its way toward the tropics.
The night was very dark, and as the huge voyager had
no " light out," the Advance could not be censured for
running foul. She was punished, however, by the loss
of her jib boom, as she ran against the iceberg at the
rate of seven or eight knots an hour.

The voya^era did not land at Cape Comfort, but
turning northward, sailed along the southwest coast of
Greenland, sometimes in the midst of broaa acres of
broken ice, (particularly in Davis' Straits,) as far as
Whale Island. On the way the anniversary of our
national independence occurred ; it was observed by
tlie seamen by " splicing the main-brace " — in other
words, they were allowed an extra glass of grog on that
day.

l*i"om "Whale Island, a boat, with two officers and
four Heamen, was sent to Disco Island, a distance of
about 26 miles, to a Danish settlement tljere, to procure
skin clothing and other articles necessary for use during
the rigors of a polar winter. The offic^ers were enter-
tained at the government house ; the seamen v;ere com-
foriubly lodged with the Esquimaux, sleeping in fur
bags at night. Tliey returned to the ship the following
day, and the expedition proceeded on its voyage. Wli on
[lassing the little Danish settlement of Upernavick, they
were boarded by natives for the first time. They were
out in government whale-boats, hunting for ducks and
seals. These hardy children of the Arctic Circle were
Uwt shy, for through the Danes, the English wluilers,and
government expeditions, they hud become acquainted
with men of other latitudes.

When the expedition reached Melville Bay, which,
on account of its fearful chara ^ter, is also called tha
DeviVs Nip^ the voyagers began to witness more of
the grandeur and perils of arctic scenes. Icebergs of

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THE AMERICAN AKCTIO EXPEDITION.

865

all dimensionB came beariiig down from the Polar seas,
like vast squadrons, and the roar of their rending came
over the waters like the booming of heavy broadsides
of contending navies. They also encountered immense
floes, with only narrow channels between, and at times
their situation was exceedingly perilous. On one occa-
sion, after heaving through fields of ice for five consecu-
tive weeks, two immense floes, between which ther
were making their way, gradually approached each
other, and for several hours they expected their tiny
vessels — tiny when compared with the mighty objects
around them — would be crushed. An immense calf
of ice, six or eight feet thick, slid under the Rescue,
lifting her almost " high and dry," and careening her
partially upon her beam ends. Bv means of ice-an-
chors, (large iron hooks,) they kept her from capsizing.
In this position they remained about sixty hours, when,
with saws and axes, they succeeded in relieving her.
The ice now opened a little, and they finally warped
through into clear water. While they were thus con-
fined, polar bears came around them in abundance,
greedy for prey, and the seamen indulged a little in the
perilous sports of the chase.

The open sea continued but a short time, when they
again became entangled among bergs, fioes, and hum-
mocks, and encountered the most fearful perils. Some-
times they anchored their vessels to icebergs, and some-
times to noes or masses of hummock. On one of these
occasions, while the cook, an active Frenchman, was
upon a berg, making a place for an anchor, the mass of
ice split beneath him, and he was dropped through the
yawning fissure into the water, a distance of almost
thirty fiet. Fortunately the masses, as is often the
case, did not close up again, but floated apart, and the
poor cook was hauled on board more dead than alive,
from excessive fright. It was in this fearful region that
ihev first encountered pack-ice, and there they were
• Dcked in from the 7th to the 23d of July. During that
time they were joined by the yacht Prince Albert, com*
roanded by Captain Forsyth, of the Royal Navy, and

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366

PB0QEE3S OF ARGTIO DISCOVERT.

together the three vessels were anchored, for a Vhile,
to an immense field of ice, in siffht of the DeviPa
Thumb. That high, rocky peak, situated in latitude
74^ 22', was about thirty miles distant, and with the
dark hills adjaceA, presented a strange aspect where
all was white and glittering. The pack and the hills
are masses of rock, with occasionally a lichen or a moss
growing upon their otherwise naked surfaces. In the
midst of the vast ice-field loomed up many lofty bergs,
all of them in motion — slow and majestic motion.

From the Devil's Thumb the American vessels passed
onward through the pack toward Sabine's Islands, while
the Prince Albert essayed to make a more westerly
course. They reached Cape York at the beginning of
August. Far across the ice, landward, they discovered,
through their glasses, several men, apparently making
signals ; and for a while they rejoiced in the belief that
they saw a pori'on of Sir John Franklin's companions.
Four men, (among whom was our sailor-artist,) wer<»
dispatched with a whale-boat to reconnoiter. They soon
discovered the men to be Esquimaux, who, by signs,
professed great friendship, and endeavored to get the
voyagers to accompany them to their homes beyond
the hills. They declined ; and as soon as they returned
to the vessel, the expedition again pushed forward, and
made its way to Cape Dudley Digges, which they
reached on the 7th of August.

At Cape Dudley Digges they were charmed hy tlif,
sight of tne Crimson Cliffs, spoken of by Captain Parry
and other arctic navigators. These are lofty clifis of
dark brown stone, covered with snow of a rich crimson
color. It was a magnificent sight in that cold region,
to see such an apparently warm object standing oi;t in
bold relief against the dark blue back-ground of a polar
sky. This was the most northern point to which the
expedition penetrated. The whole coast which they
had passed fr^m Disco to this cape is high, rugged, and
barren, only some of the low points, stretching into the
sea, bearing a species of dwarf fi». Northeast from
the cape rise the Arctic Highlands, tte an unknown alti-

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THE AMEBIOAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION.

871

rude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored
Smith's Sound, filled with impenetrable ice.

From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Reen
cue, beating against wind and tide in the midst of the
ice-fields, made Wolstenholmo Sound, and then chang-
ing their course to the southwest, emerged from tlie
fidds into the open waters of Lancaster Sound. Here,
on the 18th of August, they encountered a tremendous
gale, which lasted about twenty-four hours. The two
vessels parted company during the storm, and remained
separate several oays. Across Lancaster Sound, the
Advance made her way t<v Barrow's Straits, and on the
22d discovered the Prince Albert on the southern shore
of the straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty,
recipitous rocks, dark and barren, and hooded and
raped with snow. The weather was fine, and soon
the officenB and crews of the two vessels met in friendly
greeting. Those of the Prince Albert were much as-
tomshea, for they (being towed by a steamer,) left the
Americans in Melville Bay on the 6th, pressing north-
ward through the pack, and could not conceive how
they so soon and safely penetrated it. Captain For-
syth had attempted to reach a particular point, where
he intended to remain through the winter, but finding
•ihe passage thereto completely blocked up with ice, he
had resolved, on the very day when the Americans ap-
peared, to " 'bout ship," and return home. T'lis fact,
and the disappointment felt by Mr. Snow, are mentioned
in our former article.

The two vessels remained together a day or two,
when they parted company, the Prince Albert to re»
iurn home, and the Advance to make furtlier explora-
tions. It was ofi' Leopold Island, on the 22d of Au-
gust, that the " mad Yankee " took the lead through the
vast masses of floating ice, so vividly described by Mr.
Snow, and so graphically portrayed by the sailor-artist.
" The way was before them," says Mr. Snow, who stood
upon the deck of the Advance ; " the stream of ice had
to be either gone through boldly, or a long detour made;
and, despite the heaviness of the stream, theyyxtahsd

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«72

PBOORESB OF AEOTIO DISCOTERT.

the vessel through in her proper course. Two or three
Bhocks, as she came in contact with some large pieces,
were unheeded ; and the moment the last bloct was
past the bow, the officer sung out, * So : steady as she
^oes on her course ;' and came ail as if nothing more
than ordinary sailing had been going on. I oosserved
our own little bark nobly following in the American's
wake ; and as I afterward learned, she got through it
pretty well, though not witliout much doubt of the pro-
priety of keeping on in such procedure after the ' mad
Yankee,* as he was called by our mate."

From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the
northwest, and on the 25th reached Cape Riley, an
other amorphous mass, not so regular and precipitate
as Leopold Island, but more lofty. Here a strong tide,
setting in to tlie shore, drifted the Advance toward the
beach, where she stranded. Around her were small
bergs and large masses of floating ice, all under the
influence of the strong on'-'nt. It was about two
o'clock in the afternoon v i ii she struck. By diligent
labor in removing every thing from her deck to a small
floe, she was so lightened, that at four o'clock the next
morning she floated, and soon every thing was properly
replaced.

I^ear Cape Kiley the Americans fell in with a por-
tion of an English Expedition, and there also the
Hescue, left behind in the gale in Lancaster Sound,
overtook the Advance. There was Captain Penny
with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the veteran Sir
John Ross, with the Felix, and Commodore Austin,
with the Resolute steamer. Together the navigators
of both nations explored the coast at and near Cape
Riley, and on the 27th they saw in a cove on the shore
of Beechey Island, or Beechey Cape, on the east side of
the entrance to "Wellington Channel, unmistakable evi
deuce that Sir John Franklin and his companions were
there in April, 1846. There they found many articles
known to belong to the British Navy, and some that
were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships
under the command of Sir John. There lay, bleached

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THE AMERICAN AIJOTIO EXl'EDITION.

875

to' the whiteness of the surrounding snow, a piece of
canvas, with the name of the Terror, marked upon it
with indestructible charcoal. It was very faint, yet
perfectly legible. Near it was a
guide board, lying flat upon its
face, having been prostrated by
the wind. It had evidently been
used to direct exploring parties to
the vessels, or rather, to the en-
campment on shore. The board
was pine, thirteen inches in length
and six and a half in breadth, and
nailed to a boarding pike eight
feet in lenMh. It is supposed
that the sudden opening of the
ice, caused Sir John to depart
hastily, and in so doing, this pike
and its board were left behind.
They also found a large number
of tin canisters,
such as are used
for packing meats
for a sea voyage; an
anvil block : rem-
nants of clothing,
which evinced, by
numerous patches
and their thread-
bare character,that
they had been worn
as long as the own-
ers could keep them anvil block. guide board
on ; the remains of an India Rubber glove, lined wit*
wool ; some old sacks ; i cask, or tub, partly filled with
charcoal, and an UL^nithed rope-mat, which, like othei
dbrous fabrics, was bleached white.

But the most interesting, and aC the same time most
melancholy traces of the navigators, were three graves,
in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the head,
bearing the name of the sleeper below. These inscrip-

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876

PSOGBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

ti^ns testify positively when Sir John and his compan
Ions were there. The board at the head of the gray«
on the left has the following inscription :

" Sacred to the memory of John Torringtok, who
departed this life, January Ist, a d., 1846, on board
her Majesty's ship Terror, aged 20 years."

On the center one — "Sacred to the memory of
John Habtnell, A. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus;
died, January 4th, 1846, aged 25 years. * Thus saith
the Lord of Hosts, Conoider your ways ;' Haggai, chap,
i. 5, 7."

On the right — " Sacred to the memory of "W. Brainb,
R. M., ofher Majesty's ship Erebus, who died April 3d,
1846, aged 32 years. * Choose you this day whom you
will serve :' Joshua, chap, xxiv., part of the ISth verse."

THREE GRAVES AT BEEOHET.

How much later than April 3d (the date upon the
astnamed head-board,) Sir John remained at Beechey,
can not be determined. They saw evidences of his
having gone northward, for sledge tracks in that di-
rection were visible. It is the opinion of Dr. Kane
that, on the breaking up of the ice, in the spring, Sir
John passed northward with his ships through 'Welling-
ton Ohannel, into the great Polar basin, and that he
did not return. This, too, is the opinion of Oaptain
Fenny, and he zealously urges the British eovemment
to send a powerful screw steamer to pass through that

i If

TBE AMBBIOAK ABCriO EXPEDITION.

879

ekannel, and 'q>lore the theoretically more hospitable
coasts beyond. This will doubtless be undertakuu
another season, it being the opinions of Captains Parry,
Beechey, Sir John Eoss, and others, expressed at a con-
ference with the board of Admiralty, in September, tljat
the seas'.n was too far advanced to attempt it the pres-
ent year. Dr. Kane, in a letter to Mr. Grinnell, since
the return of the expiidition, thus expresses his opin*
ion concerning the safety of Sir John and his com-
panions. After saying, ^'I should think that he is
now to be sought for north and west of Cornwallis
Island," he adds, " as to the chance of the destruction
of his party by the casualties of ice, the return of our
own party after something more than the usual share
of them, is the only tact that I can add to what we
knew when we set .out. The hazards from cold and
privation of food may be almost looked upon as sub-
ordinate. The snow-hut, the fire and light from the
moss-lamp fed with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the
white whale, and occasionally abundant stores of mi-
gratory birds, would sustain vigorous life. The scurvy,
the worst visitation of explorers deprived of perma-
nent quarters, is more rare in the depths of a polar
winter, than in the milder weather of the moist sum
mer ; and our two little vessels encountered both
seasons without losing a man."

Leaving Beechey Cape, our expedition forced its way
through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly
escaped being frozen in for the winter. They endeav-
ored to enter the Inlet, for the purpose of making it
their winter quarters, but were prevented by the mass
of pack-ice at its entrance. It was on the 4th of Sep-
tember, 1860, when they arrived there, and after re-
maining seven or eight days, they abandoned the
attempt to enter. On the right and left of the above
picture, are seen the dark rocks at the entrance of the
Inlet, and in the center of the frozen waters and the
ranee of hills beyond. There was much smooth ice
within the Inlet, and while the vessels lay anchored
to the ** field," officers and crew exercised and amused

880

PBOOBESS OF ABOTIO DISOOYERT

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tbemselves by skating. On the left of the Inlet, (in
dicated by the dark conical object,) they diecovered a
Cairn, (a heap of stones with a cavity,) eight or ten
feet in height, which was erected b^ Oaptain Ommaney
of the English Expedition then in the polar waters.
Within it lie had placed two letters, for ** Whom it
might concern." Commander De Haven also depos-
ited a letter there. It is believed to be the only post
office in the world, free for the use of all nations. The
rocks, here, presented vast fissures made by the frost;
and at the foot of the cliff on the right that powerful
agent had cast down vast heaps of debris.

From Barlow's Inlet, our expedition moved slowly
westward, battling with the ice every rood of the way,
until they reached Griffin's Island, at about 96° west
longitude from Greenwich. This was attained on the
11th, and was the extreme westing made by the expe-
dition. All beyond seemed impenetrable ice; and,
despairing of making any further discoveries before the
winter should set in, they resolved to return home.
Turning eastward, they hoped to reach Davis' Strait
by the southern route, before the cold and darkness
came on ; but they were doomed to disappointment
Near the entrance to Wellington Channel tney became
completely locked in by hummock-ice, and soon fouiid
themselves drifting with an irresistible tide up that
channel toward the pole.

Now began the most perilous adventures of the navi-
gators. The summer day was drawing to a close ; the
aiumal visits of the pale sun were rapidly shortening,
and soon the long polar night, with all its darkness and
horrors, would ftul upon them. Slowly they drifted in
those vast fields of ice, whither, or to what result, they
knew not. Locked in the moving yet compact mass ;
liable at every moment to be crushed ; far away from
land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower from
the zero figure, toward the point where that metal
freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again.
Yet they prepared for winter comforts and winter sports,
as cheorfnlly as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet As ih.%

et, (in
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THB AHEBIOAN ABOTIO BXPKDrncaU

885

i^inter advancod, the crews of both the vessels went on
Doard the larger one. They unshipped the ruddera of
each, to prevent their beine iniureu oy the ice, covered
the deck of the Advance with felt, prepared their stores,
and made arrangements for enduring the long winter,
now upon them. Physical and mental activity being
nocessarv for the preservation of health, they ' "v ex-
ercised in the open air for several hours. They built
ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and the little polar
Hoxes^ and when the darkness of the winter night had
spread over them they arranged in-door amusements
and employments.

Before the end of October, the sun made its appear-
ance for the last time, and the awtul polar night
closed in. Early in November they wholly abandoned
the Rescue, and both crews made the Advance their
permuiient winter home. The cold soon became in-
tense ; the mercury congealed, and the spirit thermome-
ter indicated 46° below zero 1 Its average range was
30° to 35°. Tliey had drifted helplessly up Wellington
Channel, almost to the latitude from whence Capta'.n
Penny saw an open sea, and which all believe to bo
the great polar basin, where there is a more gcnia.
clime than that which intervenes between the Arctic
Circle and the 75th degree. Here, when almost in
sight of the open ocean, that mighty polar tide, with
its vast masses of ice, suddenly ebbed, and our little
vessels were carried back as resistlessly as before,
through Barrow's Straits into Lancaster Sound I All
this while the immense fields of hummock-ice were
moving, and the vessels were in hourlv danger of being
crushed and destroyed. At length, while drifting
through Barrow's Straits, the congealed mass, as if
crushed together by the opposite shores, became more
compact, and the Advance was elevated almost seven
feet Dy the stem, and keeled two feet eight inches, star-
board. In this position she remained, with Tery little
alteration for five consecutive months ; for, soon after
entering Bafiin's Bay in the midst of the winter, the
ice became frozen in one immense tract, coyering mil

I 't

t;-v*j

3S6

PBOORRSS OF ARCriC DISCUVKRT.

jons of acres. Thus f**ozcn in, somotimos nioro than a
bund red miles from land, tlicy dritlod slowlv along the
southwest coast of Battings Bay, a distance ot more than
a thousand miles from Wollington Cliannel. For eleven
weeks that dreary night coiitinued, and during that
time the disc of the sun was never seen above tlie liori
zon. Yet nature was not wiiolly forbidding in a8j)ect
Sometimes tiie Aurora .^^orcalis would flash up still
further northward ; and sometimes Aurora Parhelia —
mock suns and mock moons — would appear in varied
bcautyin the starry sky. Brilliant, too, were the north-
ern constellations ; and when the real moon was at its
full, it made its stately circuit in the heavens, without
descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast
piles of ice with a pa' . luster, almost as great as the
morning twilights oi more genial skies.

Around ti»e vessels the crews built a wall of ice ; and
in ice huts ihey stowed away their cordage and stores
to make room for exercise on the decks. They organ-
ized a theatrical company, and amused themselves and
the officers with comedy well performed. Behind the

Kieces of hummock each actor learned his part, and
y means of calico they transformed themselves into
female characters, as occasion required. These dramas
were acted on the deck of the Advance, sometimes
while the thermometer indicated 30° below zero, and
actors and audiences highly enjoyed the ftin. They
also went in parties during that long night, fully armed,
to hunt the polar bear, the grim monarch of the frozen
North, on which occasions they often encountered peril-
ous adventures. They played at foot-ball, and exercised
themselves in drawing sleuges, heavily laden with pro-
visions. Five hours of each twenty-four, they thus exer-
cised in the open air, and once a week each man washed
Ins whole body in cold snow water. Serioub sickness
was consequently avoided, and the scurvy which at-
tacked them soon yielded to remedies.

Often during that fearful night, they expected the
disaster of having their vessels cmshed. All through
November and December, before the ice became fiist

riiK amkkioa;; arctic kxi'Kdition.

887

the
j-ougb
fast

tlicy 8lc])t iu their clothes, with knai>sack8 on their
backs, and slodgcs i pon the ice, laden with etoixse, not
knowing at what moment the vessels migiit be demol-
ished, and themselves forced to leave tliem, and make
tlieir way toward land. On the 8th of Decemljer, and
tlie 23d of Jannary, they actually lowered their l)oat8
and stood upon the ice, for the cru8hin4>' masses were
making the timbers of the gallant vessel creak and its
decks to rise in the center. They were then ninety
mih^s from land, and hope hardly whispered an encour-
aging idea of life bein^ sustained. G*. the latter occa-
sion, when officers and crew stood upou the ice, with
the ropes of their provision sledges .n their bands, a
terrible snow-drift came from the northeust, and intense
darkness shrouded them. Had the vessel then been
cr.iF'ied, all must have perished. But God, who ruled
the storm, also put forth His protecting arm and saved
them.

Early in February the nortliern horizon began to bo
streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald ot the ap-
proaching king ot day ; and on the 18th the disc of
the sun first appeared above the horizon. As its golden
rim rose above the glittering snow-drifts and pdes of
ice, three hearty cheers went up from those hardy mar
incrs, and they welcomed their deliverer from the
chains of frost as cordially as those of old who chanted,

" See I the conquering hero comes,
Sound the trumpet, beat tlie drums.*'

Day after day it rose higher and higher, and while the
pallid faces of the voyagers, bleached during that long
night, darkened by its oeams, the vast masses of ice
began to yield to its fervid influences. The scurvy dis-
appeared, and from that time, until their arrival home,
not a man suffered from sickness. As they slowly
Irlfted through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indiciu
tions of breaking up, the voyagers made preparationt
for sailing. The Rescue was re-occupied, (Mav 13th,
1861,) and her stone-post, which had been brolcen by
the ice in Banow's Straits, was repaired. To accom
plish ^8, tliey were obliged to dig away the ice whic})

«f

588

PROGRESS OF A.RCTIO DISCOVERT.

r i
'1'

-IT*

ii;

was from 12 to 14 feet thick around lier, a8 represented
in the enf^ravirg. They reshipped their rudders ; re-
moved tlie felt covering ; placed their stores on deck,
and then patiently awaited the disruption of tlu5 ice
This event was very sudden and appalling. It boji^aii
to give way on the 5th of June, and in tlie space of
twenty minutes the whole mass, as far as the eye could
reach, became one vast field of moving floes. On the
10th of June, they emerged into open water, a little
south of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 65° 30'. They
immediately repaired to Godbaven, on the coast of
Greenland, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the
perils through which they had just passed, they once
more turned their prows northward to encounter anew
the ice squadrons of Baffin's Bay. Again they trav
ersed the coast of Greenland to about the 73d de-
gree, when they bore to the westward, and on the 7th
and 8th of July, passed the English whaling fleet neaa
the Dutch Islands. Onward they pressed through
the accumulating ice to Baffin's Island, where, on
the 11th. they were joined by the Prince Albert, then
out upon another cruise. They continued in com-
pany until the 3d of August, when the Albert departed
for the westward, determined to try the more south
em passage. Here again our expedition encountered
vast fields of hummock-ice, and were subjected to the
most imminent perils. The floating ice, as if moved by
adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and reared
upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels like monsters
of the deep intent upon aestruction. Tliese masses
broke in the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon
the decks with terrible force, like rocks rolled over a
plain by mountain torrents. The noise was fearful ; so
aeatening that the mariners could scarcely hear each
other's voices. The sounds of these rolling masses, to
gether with the rending of the icebergs floating near,
and the vast floes, produced a din like the discharge of
a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of battle
Finding the north and west closed against furthei
progress, Dy impenetrable ice, the brave De f laven waa

ill'!!

ercd
the

arod
isters
asses
upon
er a
wo
eac'.b
,t<>
iiear.
geof
tattle
vtliei
1 was

(II 1

^ i

THE AMEBICAN ABCTIO fXPEDITION.

393

t.<ilked, and turning his vessels homeward, they came
out into an open sea, somewhat crippled, bat not 9
plank seriously started. During a storm on the banks
of Newfoundland, a thousand miles from New York,
the vessels parted company. The Advance arrived
safely at the Navy Vara at Brooklyn on the 30th of
September, and the Rescue joined her there a few days
afterward. Toward the close of October, the govern-
ment resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Grin-
nell, to bo used in other service, but with the stipulation
that they are to be subject to the order of the Secretary
of the Navy in the spring, if required for another
expedition in search of Sir John Franklin.

We have thus given a very brief account of the prin-
cipal events of interest connected with the American
Arctic Expedition ; a full report of which, and detailed
narratives have been published. Aside from the suc-
cess wliich attended our little vessels in encountering the
perils of the polar seas, there are associations which must
forever hallow the effort as one of the noblest exhibitions
of the true glory of nations. The navies of America and
England have before met upon the ocean, but they met
for deadly strife. Now, too, they met for strife, equally
determined, but not with each other. They mot m the
holy cause of benevolence and human sympathy, to
battle with the elements beneath the Arctic Circle ; and
the chivalric heroism which the few: stout hearts of the
two nations displayed in that terrible conflict, redounds
a thousand-fold more to the glory of the actors, their
governments, and the race, than if four-score ships
with ten thousand armed men had fought for the mas-
tery of each other upon the broad ocean, and battered
hulks and marred corpses had gone down to the cora.
caves of the sea, a dreadful offering to the demon of
Discord. In the latter event, troops of widows and or-
phan children would have sent up a cry of wail ; now,
the heroes advanced manfully to rescue husbands and
fathers to restore tliem to their wives and children.
Flow glorious the thought I and how suggestive of the
beauty of that fast approaching day, when tha u^ti

804

PROOUKSS OK ARCTIC DISCUVKUY.

Biml) Bit down in peuco as united ciiildron of on<i
houeebold.

¥ ■' fc

"Winter in thk Akctio Ockan.

The follo^v^ng narrative, sliowinf; tlio way tlio wintoi
of 1851-52 was passed by those eiicjaired in the recen
arctic expedition, ia from tiie ofiieial rej)ort made by
Lieut. Do Haven, the Coiniiuinder of the expedition

"On the morning of tiie 13tli Se})t., 1850, the wind
having moderated sufliciently, we got under way, and
working our way tlirough some streams of ice, arrived
in a few liours at 'GriiHth's' Island, under the lee of
which we found our cimsort made fast to tlie shore,
where she had taken shelter in the gale, her crew hav-
ing suftered a good deal from the inclemency of the
weather. In bringing to under the lee of the island,
Bhe had the mie^brtune to s})ring her rudder, so that on
joining us, it was with much difficulty she could steer.
To insure her safety and more rapid progress, she was
taken in tow by the Advan(;e, when she Lore up with
a fine breeze from the westward. Off Cape Martyr,
M'e left the English scpuulron under Capt. Austin.
About ten miles further to the east, the twi> vessels un-
der Capt. Penny, and that under Sir John Rose, were
Been secured near the land. At 8 p. m.. we had ad-
vanced as far as Cape llotham. Thence as far as the
increasing darkness of the night enabled us to see, there
was nothmg to obstruct our pi-ogress, except the bay
ice. This, with a good breeze, would not have im-
peded us much ; but unfortunately the wind, when it was
most required, failed us. The snow, with which the
surface of the water ^^as covered, rai)idly cemented,
and formed a tenacious coat, through which it was im-
possible with all our appliances to force the vessels. At
8 p. M., they came to a dead stand, some ten nules to
the east of Barlow's Inlet.

"The following day the wind hauled to the Bonthward,
from which quarter it lasted till the 19th. During this
period the young ice was broken, its edges squeezed uv

WINTKU IN TUB ARCTIO OCRAN.

895

rard,
this
uv

like Iiammocks, and otio 600 overniu by another nntiJ
it all assumed the a|)))caranco of heavy ice. Tiio ves
eels received some heavy nips tVum it, but they with*
8t(K)d them without injury. Wlienever a ik)o1 of wutei
made its appeiinince, every ellort was made to reach it,
in hopes tiiat it would lead us into Beechey island, or
Homo other place where the vessel might be placed in
riccurity ; tor the winter set in unusually early, and Iho
severity with which it commenced, forbade all hopes
of our being able to return this season. 1 now became
anxious to attain a point in the neighborhood, from
whence by means of land parties, in the spring, a goodly
extent of Wellington Channel might be examined.

" In the mean time, under the nifluence of the south
wind, we were being set up the channel. On the 18tli
we were above Cape Bowden, the most northern point
seen on this shore oy Parry. The land on both shoreB
was seen nmch further, and trended considerably to tho
west of north. To account for this drill, tho hxed ico
of Wellington Channel, which we had observe' 'n j>as8-
ing to the westward, must have been broken up and
driven to the southward by the heavy gale of the 12th.
On the 19th the wind veered to the north, which gave
us a southerly set, forcitig us at the f^ame time with tho
western shore. This did nut last long; for the next day
the wind hauled again to the south, and blew fresh,
bringmg the ice in upon us with much ]>ressure. At
midnight it broke ii]) all around us, so that we h.id work
to maintain the Advance in a safe ])osition, and keep
Imm' from being separated froi i her consort, which was
nnm<)val)ly Hxed in the ccnte of a large floe.

"Wo continued to drift slo>*iy to the N. N.W., until
til 3 22d, whe!i our jjrugrcss a} jeared to be arrested by
a small low island, which waa liscovered in that direc-
tion, about seven miles distan A channel of three 01
four miles in width separated , i from Cornwallis Island
Phis latter island, trending ).^. W. from our position,
terminated abruptly in an Ck^vated cape, to which I
have given the name of l^Iai.wing, atler a warm iHjr
•onal friend and ardent sup^^rter of the expedition

3U6

PB(K}BESS OF AJlOnO DISOOYB&r.

|.k

1 I

Between Oomwallis Island and some distant high Ian
visible in the north, appeared a wide channel Tcadinfl
to the westward. A aark, misty-looking cloud which
hung over it, (technically termed frost-smoke,) was in-
dicative of mnch open water in that direction. This
was the direction in which my instructions, referring to
the investigations of the National Observatory, concern
ing the winds and currents of the ocean, directed me to
look for open water. Nor was the open water the only
indication that presented itself in confirmation of this
theoretical conjecture as to a milder climate in that
direction. As we entered Wellington Channel, the
si^s of animal life became more abundant, and Cap-
tam Pennv, commander of one of the Enfflish expe-
ditions, who afterward penetrated on sledges much
toward the region of the ' frost-smoke,' much ftirther
than it was possible for us to do in our vessels reported
that he actually arrived on the borders of this open sea.
"Thus, these admirably drawn instructions, deriving
arguments from the enlarged and comprehensive sys-
tem of physical research, not only pointed with em-
phasis to an unknown sea into which Franklin had
probably found his way, but directed me to search for
traces of his expedition in the very channel at the
entrance of which it is now ascertained he had passed
his first winter. The direction in which search with
most chances of success is now to be made for the
missing expedition, or for traces of it, is no doubt in
the direction which is so clearly pointed out in my in-
structions. To the channel which, appeared to lead
into the open sea over which the cloud of * frost-smoke *
huns^ as a sign, I have given the name of Maury, after
the distinguished o^entleman at the head of our National
Observatory, w}i<>so theory with regard to an open sea
to the north is likely to be realized through this chan-
nel. To the large mass of land visible between N. W,
to N. N. E., I gave the name of Grinnell, in honor of
the bead and heart of th3 man in whose philanthropia
mind originated the idea of this exr^edition, and fo
whose munificence it owes its existenut.

W1NTKR IN THE ABOTIO 00£AV.

391

lyin-

ilead
loke'
[after

ional
sea

5han-

r.w.

)r of
fopio
Id *o

** To a remarkable peak bearing N. N. £. from uSi
distant about forty miles, was given the name of
Mount FraQklin. An inlet or harbor immediately to
the north of Cape Bowden was discovered by Mr.
Griffin in his land excursion from Point Innes, on the
27th of August, and has received the name of Griiiin
Inlet. The small island mentioned before was called
Murdaugh's Island, after the acting master of the Ad-
vance. The eastern shore of Wellington Channel ap-
peared to run parallel with the western, but it became
auite low, and being covered with snow, could not be
istinguished with certainty, so that its continuity with
the high land to the north was not ascertained. Some
small pools of open water appearing near us, an attempt
was made about fifty yaras, but all our combined
efforts were of no avail in extricating the Kescue from
her icy cradle. A change of wind not only closed the
ice up again, but threatened to give a severe nip. "We
unsliipped her rudder and placed it out of harm's way.

" September 22d, was an uncomfortable day. The
wind was from N. E. with snow. From an early hour
in the morning, the fioes began to be pressed together
with so much force that their edge was thrown up in
immense ridges of rugged hummocks. The Advance
was heavily nipped between two floes, and the ice was
piled up so high above the rail on the starboard side
as to threaten to come on board and sink us with its
weight. All hands were occupied in keeping it out
The pressure and commotion did not cease till near
midnight, when we were very glad to have a respite
from our labors and fears. The next day we were
threatened with a similar scene, but it fortunately
ceased in a short time. For the remainder of Septem-
ber, and until the 4th of October, the vessels drifted
but little. The winds were very light, the thermometer
fell to minus 12, and ice formed over the pools in sight,
sufficiently strong to travel upon. Wo were now
strongly impressed with the belief that the ice had be-
come fixed for the winter, and that we should be able
to send out traveling parties from the advanced position

808

PROGRESS OF AKCnO DI8C0TERT.

III

for the examination of the lands to the northward
Stimulated by this fair prospect, another attempt war
made to reach the shore in order to establish a depo>
of provisions at or near Cape Manning, which would
materially facilitate the progress of our parties in th^
sprinff ; but the ice was still found to beaetached fronc
the snore, and a narrow lane of water cut us from it.

" During the interval of comparative quiet, prelimi
nary measures were taken for heating the Advance
and increasing her quarters, so as to accomodate the
officers and crew of both vessels. No stoves had a»
yet been used in either vessel ; indeed they could not
well be put up without placing a large quantity of stores
and fuel upon the ice. Tiie attempt was made to do
this, but a sudden crack in the floe where it appeared
strongest, causing the loss of several tons of coal, con-
vinced us that it was not yet safe to do so. It was not
until the 20th of October, we got fires below. Ton
days later the housing cloth was put over, and the offi-
cers and crew of the Rescue ordered on board tlie Ad-
vance for the winter. Room was found on the deck of
the Rescue for many of the provisions removed from
the hold of this vessel. Still a largo quantity had to
be placed on the ice. The absence of tire below had
caused much discomfort to all hands ever since the be-
ginning of September, not so much from the low tem-
perature, as from the accumulation of moisture by
condensation, which congealed as the tempeiature de-
creased, and covered the wood work of our apartments
with ice. This state of things soon began to work its
effect upon the health of the crews. Several cases of
scurvy appeared among them, and notwithstanding tlie
indefatigable attention and active treatment resorted to
by the medical officers, it could not be era licated — its
progress, however, was checked.
"All through October and November, we were drifted
to and fro by the changing wind, but never passing out
of Wellington Channel. On the Ist of Noveinber, the
new ice had attained the thicknoss of 37 inches. Still,
ft-equent breaks would occur in it, often in fearftil pros

WTKTER IW THK ARCTHO OOEAH.

899

unity to the vessels. Hummocks consisting of massive
granite-like blocks, would be thrown up to the height
of twenty, and even thirty feet. This action in the ice
was accompanied with a variety of sounds impossible
to be descnbed, but when heard never failed to carry a
f(3eling of awe into the stoutest hearts. In the stillness
of an arctic night, they could be heard several miles,
and often was the rest of all hands disturbed by them.
To guard against the worst that could happen to us —
the destruction of tlie vessels — the boats were prepared
and sledges built. Thirty days' provisions were placed
in for all hands, together with tents and blanket bags
for sleeping in. Besides this, each man and oflficer had
hts knapsack containing an extra suit of clothes. These
were all kept in readiness for use at a moment's notica
" For the sake of wholesome exercise, as well as to in-
ure the people to ice traveling, frequent excursions were
made with our laden sledges. The oflBcers usually took
the lead at the drag ropes, and they, as well as the men
underwent the labor of surmounting the rugged hum-
mocks, with great cheerfulness and zeal. iTotwith-
standing the low temperature, all hands usually returned
in a profuse perspiration. We had also other sources
of exercise and amusements, such as foot-ball, skating,
sliding, racing, with theatrical representations on holi-
days and national anniversaries. These amusements
were continued throughout the winter, and contributed
very materially to the cheerfulness and general good
nealth of all hands. The drift had s«t us gradually to
the S. E., until we were about five miles to the S. W.
Df Beechey Island. In this position we remained com-
paratively stationary about a week. We once more
Dcgan to entertain a hope that we had become fixed for
tlie winter, but it provea a vain one, for on the last day
of November a strong wind from the westward set in,
with thick snowy weather. The wind created an im-
mediate movement in the ice. Several fractures took
place near us, and many heavy hummocks were thrown
up. The floe in which our vessels were imbedded, was
being rapidly encroached upon, so that we were in mo-
Q 25

too

I'UOGRKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEhT.

iff: P-

•te 11*

i ■

montary fear of the ice breaking from aronnd fchem,
and that they would be once more broken out and left
to the tender mercies of the crashing floes.

**0n the following day (the Ist of December^ the
weather cleared oflf ana the few hours of twilight
which ive had about noon, enabled us to ^et a, glimpse
of the land. As well as we could make it out, we ap-
peared to be off Gascoiffne Inlet. We were now clear
of Wellington Channel, and in the fair way of Lan-
caster Sound, to be set either up or down, at the mercy
of the prevailing winds and currents. We were not
long left; in doubt as to the direction we Lad to pursue.
The winds prevailed from the westward, and our drift
was steady and rapid toward the mouth of the Sound.
The prospect before us was now any thing but cheering.
We were deprived of our last fond hope, that of be-
coming fixed in some position whence operations could
be carried on by means of traveling parties in the
spring. The vessels were fast being set out of the
region of search. Nor was this our only source of un-
easiness. The line of our drift was from two to five
miles from the north shore, and whenever the moving
ice met with any of the capes or projecting points of
land, the obstruction would cause fractures in it, ex-
tending off to and far beyond us. Cape Hurd was the
first and most prominent point — we were but two
miles from it on the 3d of December. Nearly all day
the ice was both seen and heard to be in constant mo-
tion at no great distance from us. In the evening a
crack on our floe took place not more than twenty -five
yards ahead of the Advance. It opened in the course
of the evening to the width of 190 yards.

" No further disturbance took place until noon of the
5th, when we were somewhat startled by the familiar
and unmistakable sound of the ice grinding against
the side of the ship. Going on deck, I perceived that
another crack had taken place, passing along the length
of the vessel. It did not open more than a foot ; tliis,
however, was suflicicnt to liberate the vessel, and she
rose eovoral iucJics bodily, havinpr become more buoy-

WINTER IN TIJK AKCTiO OCEAN.

401

Aut since she froze m. The following day, in the
evening the crack opened several yards, leaving the
sides oi the Ad\ance entirely free, and she was once
more supported by and rode in her own element. We
wore not, though, by any means, in a pleasant situation.
Tiie floes were considerably broken in all directions
around us, and one crack had taken place between the
two vessels. The Rescue was not disturbed in her bed
of ice.

"December 7th, at 8 A. M., the crack in which we
were, had opened and formed a lane of water fifty-six
feet wide, communicating aliead at the distance of sixty
feet with ice of about one foot in thickness, which had
formed since the 3d. The vessel was secured to the
largest floe near us (that on which our spare stores were
deposited.) At noon, the ice was again in motion,
and began to close, affording us the pleasant prospect
of an inevitable nip between two floes of the heaviest
kind. In a short time the prominent points took our
side, on the starboard, just about the mam-rigging, and
on the port under the counter, and at the fore-rigging ;
thus brmging three points of pressure in such a position
that it must^have proved fatal to a larger or less
strengthened vessel. The Advance, liowever, stood it
bravely. After trembling and groaning in every joint,
the ice passed under and raised her about two and
a half feet. She was let down again for a moment,
and then her stern was raised about five feet. Her
bows being unsupported, were depressed almost as
much. In this uncomfortable position we remained.
The wind blew a gale from the eastward, and the ice
all around was in dreadful commotion, excepting, for-
tunately, that in immediate contact with us. The com-
motion in the ico continued all through the night; and
we were in momentary expectation of the destruction
of both vessels. Tlie easterly gale had set ns some
two or three miles to the west. As soon as it was light
enough to see on the 9th, it was discovered that the
heavy ice on which the Rescue had been imbedded
'*')r so long a time, was entirely broken up, and piled

409

FB00BES8 OV lHariC DlflCOrKKf.

R r

*;=!!-•

Jt't;^':

m-'

up around her in massive hnmmockg. On her pumpi
being sounded, I was gratified to learn that she remained
tight, notwithstanding the immense straining and
pressure she must have endured.

** During this period of trial, as well as in all former
and subsequent ones, I could not avoid being struck
with the calmness and decision of the officers, as well
as the subordination and ^ood conduct of the men,
without an exception, Eacti one knew the imminence
of the peril that surrounded us, and was prei)ared to
abide it with a stout heart. There was no noise, no
confusion. I did not detect, even in the moment when
the destruction of the vessel seemed inevitable, a sin-
gle desponding look among the whole crew; on the
contrary, each one seemed resolved to do his whole
duty, and every thing went on cheerily and bravely.
For my own part, I had become quite an invalid, so
much so as to prevent my taking an active part in the
duties of the vessel as I had always done, or even from
incurring the exposure necessary to proper exercise.
However, I felt no apprehensions that the vessel would
not be properly taken care of, for I had perfect confi-
dence in one and all by whom I was surrounded. I
knew them to be equal to any emergency, but I felt
under special obligations to the gallant commander
of the Rescue, for the efficient aid he rendered me.
With the kindest consideration, and the most cheerful
alacrity, he volunteered to perform the executive duties
during the winter, and relieve me from every thing
that might tend in the least to retard my recovery.

" During the remainder of December, the ice re-
mained quiet immediately around us, and breaks were
all strongly cemented by new ice. In our neighbor-
hood, however, cracks were daily visible. Our drift
to the eastward averaged nearly six miles per day; so'
that on the last of the month we were at the entrance
of the Sound, Cape Osborn bearing north from us.
. "January, 1851. — On passing out of the Sound, and
opening Baffin's Bay, to the north was seen a dark hori-
zon, indicating much oyen water in that direction. Ob

Ing

id
Iri-
1)b

WlMTEJi IN TliK AKtrnO OCEAN.

408

Ml iltb, a crack took place between us and the Keacue,
passing close under our stern, and forming a lane of
water eighty feet wide. In the afternoon tlie tloes be*
fan to move, the lane was closed up, and the edgea of
the ice coming in contact with so much pressure, tiireat-
ened the demolition of the narrow space wiiich sopa
rated us from the line of fracture. Fortuiuituly, tba
tloes aga.n separated, and assumed a motion by which
the Rescue passed from our stern to the port bow, and
increased her distance from us 709 yards, where slie
came to a stand. Our stores that were on the ice were
on the same side of the cracks as the Rescue, and of
course were carried with her. The following day the
ice remained quiet, but soon after midnight, on the
13th, a gale having sprung up from the westward, it
once more got into violent motion. The young ice in
the crack near our stern was soon broken up, the edges
of the thick ice came in contact, and fearful pressures
took place, forcing up a line of hummocks which ap-
proached within ten feet of our stern. The vessel
trembled and complained a great deal.

" At last the floe broke up around U8 into many
pieces, and became detached from the sides of the
vessel. The scene of frightful commotion lasted until
4 A. M. Every moment I expected the vessel would
be crushed or overwhelmed by the massive ice forced
up far above our bulwarks, l^he Rescue being further
I'emoved on the other side of the crack from the line
of crushing, and being firmly imbedded in heavy ice,
1 was in hopes would remain undisturbed. This was
not the case; for, on sending to her as soon as it was
light enough to see, the iloe was found to be broken
away entirely up to her bows, and there formed into
such high hummocks that her bowsj)rit was broken ott',
together with her head, and all the light wood work
about it. Had the action of the ice continued much
' longer, she must have been destroyed. We had the
misfortune to find sad havoc had been made among
the stores and provisions left on the ice ; and few bar-
rels were recovered; but a lar^e portion were crushed
and had disappeared.

W -M

404

PJKO'^IiESS OF AltCl'IU DISCOVEKT.

I r

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" On the morning of the 14th there was again somo
motion in the floea. That on the port Fide moved otl'
from the vessel two or three feet and there became
stationary. This left the vessel entirely detached
from the ice round the water line, and it was expected
she would once more resume an upright position. In
this, however, we were disappointed, for she remained
with her stern elevated, and a considerable lift to- star-
board, being held in this uncomfortable position by the
heavy masses which had been force 1 under her bottom
She retained this position until she finally broke out
in the spring. We were now fhlly launched into Baf-
fin's Bay, and our line of drift began to be more south-
erly, assuming a direction nearly parallel with the
western shore of the Bay at a distance of from 40 tc
70 miles from it.

" After an absence of 87 days, the sun, on the 29th
of January, rose his whole diameter above the south-
ern horizon, and remained visible more than an hour.
All hands gave vent to delight on seeing an old friend
again, in three hearty cheers. The length of the days
aow went on increasing rapidly, but no warmth was
yet experienced from the sun's rays ; on the contrary
the cold became more intense. Mercury became con-
gealed in February, also in March, which did not occur
at any other period during the winter. A very low
temperature was invariably accompanied with clear
and calm weather, so that our coldest days were per-
haps the most pleasant. In the absence of wind, we
could take exercise in the open air without any incon-
venience from the cold. But with a strong wind blow
ing, it was dangerous to be exposed to its chilling blasts
for any length of time, even when the thermometer
indicated a comparatively moderate degree of tem-
perature.

" The ice around the vessels soon became cemented
again and fixed, and no other rupture was experienced
until it finally broke up in the spring, and allowed us
to escape. Still we kept driving to the southward
along with the " hole mass. Open lanes of water were

WINTEB LN TUE AiCCTIC OCEAN.

gain somo
tnovcd oil
ro because
detached
fl expected
)8itioTi. In
e remained
lift tO'Star-
ition by the
her bottom
,y broke out
ed into Baf-
more south-
el with the
f from 40 to

, on the 29th
ve the south-
Lhan an hour,
au old friend
. of the days
warmth was
tlie contrary
became con-
did not occur
A very low
,d with clear
tys were per-
of wind, we
it any incon-
,g wind blow
shilling blasts
thermometer
;ree of tera-

,me cemented

experienced

allowed us

le southward

)f water were

risible t all times from aloft ; sometimes they would
be fo; led within a mile or two of us. Narv^hals,
seals And dovekys were seen in them. Our sports-
mer ^ere not expert enough to procure any, except a
fe» of the latter ; although they were indefatigable in
t' eir exertions to do so. Bears would frequently be
een prowling about; only two were killed during the
winter ; others were wounded, but made their escape.
A few of us thought their flesh very palatable and
wholesome ; but the majority utterly rejected it. The
flesh of the seal, when it could be obtained, was re-
ceived with more favor.

"As the season advanced, the cases of scurvy became
more numerous, yet they were all kept under control
by the unwearied attention and skillful treatment of
the medical oflScers. My thanks are due to thenn, es-
pecially to Passed Assistant Surgeon Kane, the senior
medical officer of the expedition. I often had occa-
sion to consult him concerning the hygiene of the
crew, and it is in a great measure owing to the advice
which he gave and the expedients which he recom-
mended, that the expedition was enabled to return
without the loss of one man. By the latter end of
February the ice had become sufficiently thick to en-
able us to build a trench around the stern of the Res-
cue, sufficiently deep to ascertain the extent of the
injury she had received in the gale at Griffith's Isl-
and. It was not found to be material ; the upper gud-
geon alone had been wrenched from the stern post. It
was adjusted, and the rudder rei)aired in readiness for
shipping, when it should be required. A new bow-
sprit was also made for her out of the few spare spars
we had left, and every thing made seaworthy in both
vessels before the breaking up of the ice.

'• In May, the noon-day began to take effect upon the
•now which covered the ice ; the surface of the floes
became watery, and difficult to walk over. Still the
dissolution was so slow in comparison with the mass
to be dissolved, that it must have taken it a lon^ pe-
riod to become liberated from this cause alone. moT%

I Itfi'l

40G

PROG HESS OF AUCTIO DISCOVKRT.

Mi. >! :

1) ' I

was expected from our •'southerly drift, which still con-
tinued, and must soon carry us into a milder climate
and open sea. On the 19tli of May, the land about
Cape Searle was made out, the first that we had seen
since passing Cape Walter Bathurst, about tlie 20th of
January. A few days later we were off Cape Walsing-
ham, and on the 27th, ])assed out of the Arctic Zono.

" On the Ist of A])ril, a hole was cut in some ice that
had been formin<jj since our first besotment in Septem-
ber; it was found to have attained the thickness of 7
feet 2 inches. In this month, (April,) the amelioration
of the temperature became quite sensible. All hands
were kept at work, cutting and sawing the ice around
the vessels, in order to allow them to float once more
With the Kescue, they succeeded, after much labor, in
attaining this object ; but around tlie stern of the Ad-
vance, the ice was so thick that our 13 feet saw was too
short to pass through it ; her bows and sides, as far aft
as the gangway, were liberated. After making some
alteration in the Rescue for the better accommodation
of her crew, and fires being lighted on board of her
several days previous, to remove the ice and dampness,
which had accumulated during the winter, both oflicers
and crew were transferred to hcM* on the 24th of April.
The stores of this vessel, wliich had been taken out,
were restored, the housing cloth taken off, and the ves-
sel made in every respect ready for sea. There was
little prospect, however, of our being al)le to reach the
desired element very soon. The nearest water was a
narrow lane more than two miles distant. To cut
through the ice which intervened, would have been next
^0 impossible. Beyond this lane, from the mast-head,
nothing but intermediate floes could be seen. It was
thought best to wait with patience, and allow nature to
work for ns.

" June 6th, a moderate breeze from S. E. with pleasant
weather — thermometer up to 40 at noon, and altogether
quite warm and melting day. During the morning a
peculiar cracking sound was heard on the floe. I was
inclined to impute it to the settling of the snowdrifts as

WINTBB itji TUP' iD^,

THE AECTIO OOEAir. ^^

«ae rent in all dirccti ,„i i • *°'" ^'^ "la'iy montlm

•'«' any noiec. Ti,« r' ""^ '""^ ""' accompanied
tl.e Advance only part^afl '""-?, '•' ':""''^'3' )il>emted
I'ait was i,nl)cd/o,5 Iml'n '? """ '" «''"cl. Iior aC

position. Tlie ni?l. V„ •; «'«™ted in its nnK;Xi„
'i"'-^o loose, am/Z^tc: ,";^.r^''« «''"^^,) b S
«« an ,n,n,c-nse divnir ,,^'' «'■' "ae,ou8 friend acting
^">'.e headway in any (£,'',',,:''«'"'«''* 1-avo majf
>vcTe no,v tnrnod to g^ett , g "/'^^^ '" V^," o"r effbrta
and crowbars, tlio pcoiJe u-Vlf V ^'"j eaws, axes
S"<«1 ^i". and afte/3 hL'"'/° n-'t witb a' right'
1 ie vessel was again afllf 1 i "? ** ''°"« enccecded
all hands vented Lelf-snonH "^^ l^^^""^- "^^^ioy
«l'eers. Tbe after partofTf?fT'^, '" '''^e hearty
>»g carried away bj t be te 'rf '',^''' ^"^ g«"e, hi
^ ^as glad to jirciive d?d nl^ 'T -"f ■''' '^"^^■eve?.
saihng or working qnlli'ties of fl '"aterially affect tbe
;_«;«'■«« .ipped, anf 14 were once'r'''' ' ?« "■die™
ancftcent as on the day we Ift N^rv'T^^ '° "'°^«.

"feteermg to the S V iZi , ."^ ^o*-
,ooee but ireavy pacic •C,lr«*'"? slowly through the
Rescue in a dense foL' «L i?"' "■" Prtcd from tl!
"'« one the AdvI^I^^i^.'^^^^^^^^ ^rent Iead'"fro«

1^.

408

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ilH

r 'J r

PEOORE88 OF ABOT* J DIBOOVEBT.

Ground fob TTope.

' Mr. Wm. Penny, of Aberdeen, states in a letter to
the Times, that Capt. Martin, who, when commanding
the whaler Enterprise, in 1845, was the last person to
communicate with t*?ir. J. Franklin, has just informed
him that the Enterprise was alongside the Erebus, in
Melville Bay, and Sir John Franklin invited him,
(Capt. Martin,) to dine with him, which the latter do
clined doing, as the wind was fair to go south. Sii
John, while co.^rersing with Capt. Martin, told him
that he had five years' provisions, which he could
make last seven, and his peoi)le were busily engaged
in salting down birds, of which they had several casks
full already, and twelve men were out shooting more.
"To see such determination and foresight," observes
Mr. Penny, "at that early period, is really wonderful,
and must give us the greatest hopes." Mr. Penny
says that Capt. Martin is a man of fortune, and of the
strictest integrity.

The following is the deposition of Capt. Martin, just
received in the London Times, of Jan. 1, 1852, con-
taining the facts above alluded to :

Robert Martin, now master and commander of the
whaleship Intrepid, of Peterhead, solemnly and sin-
cerely declares that on the 22d day of July, 1845, when
in command of the whale ship Enterprise, of Peter-
head, in lat. 75** 10', long. 66° W., calm weather, and
towing, the Erebus and Terror were in company. These
ships were alongside the Enterprise for about fifteen
minutes. The declarant conversed with Sir John
Franklin, and Mr. Reid, his ice-master. The conver-
sation lasted all the time the ships were close. That
Sir John, in answer to a question by the declarant if
ho had a good supply of provisions, and how long he
exjiected them to last, stated that he had provisions
for five years, and if it were necessary he could "ma>e
them Bpin out seven years;" and he said further, that
he would lose no opportunity of killing birds, and
whatever else was useful that carae in the way, to keep

^nOVHD FOR HOPS.

con-

"P their stoclr nn^ *i ^^^

at a shot wit), w|,;t! ""clarant has hiin,»iri!n, '"," «' a
agreeable foo/« -P^"**- That thlK' /'"*"' ''"''J'
>oung pLon,''"'^ "' taste and silf •"'* «'« very

Pa-ties of'sTjotCffi '^ "' ^-d mom T, 7'^-''
iPg, dined w-th fh^ ?r ■ "®™> ^ho had hi ''•''•>'' '«'<>
There was Tboar^-l'"""''"" "" board rhl^'"" ^'""'t
^ersation w^ to thi^ "^ ^'°'" each shin ' ^.!|,'«.'-P'-''«e.

naps six yeaVs -R "e absent four nr « ' They

and in sprinD- ^ ? "'"^ """Id find a „„ "' "'^ ships
year aft^ri"! r'^"f °" «« far as possiM?""*"/ P'4

*"tK» ^^--•"-«rpti; 0-

?"" '.yV'gatanicebet '"'S ''"^^ lon^eJ- tV"^ "'«

f«- Xoti "x;"^l,' f '^ - favSr^rr"^ ^-«

been secnred^ '•^'" » ^ ery lar^e m-n^i ''^ "-eather

'kbt of ziwoifp^ 'V'"'« "'e d /:;r"' '-^^

Wis also wi^^Z • f^ ' The Prinen !^f w , ' ^as n

-"as affordedlt / *'"'.''^'> *!ps,The bes " '''"='"«nt
JeBcibed are n^t ^L"?^ '5« ^rds' Tha?T:'?!"'^
•nf. ?ro„„d d„ri„i°tt wl."1 " "" "laces on' tL'^it
'•tt - ra,t nn^fei":,-''.'"'^ season. buT at t't

■eason on ee.tain feeding

m ■

110

PEOGKKSS OF AllCTIO DISCOVERT.

(If

banks ana places Ibr In'oodiiig, and it appeared at the
.time by the declarant to bt a most fortunate circum-
stance that the Erebus and Terror had fallen in with
80 many birds, and that the state of the weather was
so favorable for securing large numbers of them. The
declarant has himself had a supply of the same de
sc'iption of birds, which kept fresh and good during
three months, at Davis' Strait, and the last were as
good as the first of them.

Which declaration, above written, is now made
conscientiously, believing the same to be true.

. EOBEBT MaBTIK.

Declared, December, 29th, 1851, before

R. Grath, Provost of Peterhead.

If*' I

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!.'

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;■:!;

Ir-

111-.

▼OTAOii: OF rilL SlEAMliK ISABEL.

411

k Summer's Search for Sir Joun Franklin, wn'ii a
Pass into the Polar Basin, by Commander E. A.
Inolefield, in the Screw Sfkamer Isabel, in 1852

The profound interest which the heroism and mys
kerious fate of Sir John Franklin, have excited in the
public mind, occasioned other expeditions to start in
pursuit of liim.^ botli from England and the United
otates, the details of whose adventures are in the
highest degree entertaining. On the 12th of July,
1852, Commander In^leiield took his departure in
the English steamer Isabel, from Fan* Island; and
sailed forth toward the frozen realms of the north, to
which so many other bold adventurers had already
been attracted. His crew consisted of seventeen per-
sons, including two ice-masters, a mate, surgeon, en-
gineer, stoker, two carpenters, cook, and eight able
seamen, who had been whalers. The two ice-masters,
Messrs. Abernethy and Manson, were already well
known in " Arctic Cirles," as having been connected
with former expeditions, and as having great experi-
ence in the perils incident to adventurous travel in
that perilous zone. The vessel was provided with
fuel and provisions for several years.

On the 30th of July the expedition gained their
first distant glimpse of the snowy mountains of Green-
laud. On the same day the iirst icebergs sailed ma-
jestically past them. Ere midnight the Isabel was
completely surrounded by those massive monuments
of the northern seas. Already the utmost caution
was necessary to prevent a fatal collision between
them and the little steamer which slowly and adroitly
elbowed her way through their rolling masses. In
epite o^* the utmost prudence, the Isabel occasionally
struck instantly she trembled from stem to stern,
recoiled for a moment, but then again recovered and
advanced upon her way. The advantages of a screw-
steamer for the purposes of navigating polar scab
tillod with lioatiig ice, were already apparent at this

ruuGuivss OF Aucno discovekt.

,!M

'1:

ti.

early stage of the expcditidh. The'propellinff power
being placed at the stern of the vessel, ana not at
the sides, enabled her to worm her way unresisted
through very many narrow defiles, which a steam-
ship of ordinary structure, or even a sailing vessel
could not have done.

On the 7th of August the expedition reached tlie
neighborhood of Fisi^ernoes, a Danish settlement;
and they were there visited by some Esquimaux in
their canoes. Guided by these pilots they entered
the harbor on which their village is built. They vis-
ited the Danish governor, M. Lazzen, and were kindly
entertained by him. A few goats supplied his family
with milk, and a very small garden protected from
the storms of that climate by artiiicicial means, af-
forded them a few vegetables during the summer
months. M. Lazzen furnished the vessel with some
salmon, codfish, and milk. The residence of the gov-
ernor in this inhospitable region, consisted of a small
house two stories high, built in an antique but sub-
fltautial manner. A Danish clergyman visits this ob-
scure and remote spot once every two weeks, and
preaches to the governor and to the colony of rude
Esquimaux over whom he rules.

Ou the 10th of August the Isabel resumed her
journey. She then sailed for the harbor of Lievely,
in which the expedition obtained a few supplies of
sugar, soap, and plank, which they needed ; but they
tailed to obtain here either dogs or interpreters. On
the 16th, they found themselves oif Upernavick, a
settlement in which they obtained these necessaries.
This Greenland village consists of two or three
wooden houseb for the Danish settlers, and a few mud
huts for the Esquimaux. In sailing out from this
harbor the steam-engine suddenly stopped, and nei-
ther the commander uor the engineer was able to
discover the dithculty. They were completely puz-
zled, until at length ^t was ascertained that the screw
at the stern had cvm^'-ht iu a loose cable which fiouted

In 106 ITfttor mrlii Ti u j

"crew 80 tightly, and in eneh'no'""""' ««"■»<> the
After the adjustmenf nf ,1" °.'°P ""« engine.

aaytlje Teasel lost hfr mo" i o*^ tlinnder. On iSi!
« deck, 8truoS~"rd''''ni which in falHag'^o^'
"• . In a short time thTii- ?°™Pas3 and damaged
paired, and the I abol h:w"J"r' ,'" '""^ ^^^
Having arrived MWoht^l V' ''^Perborean waT
gators e«,„i„ed the site of tt'?'' ''°''"'*' ^^e St^l
tors of the "North Star "ai!^" Z"';™?'' ''«'«'• q„ar.
pleasure of inspecting the Wl"^ "'« melan^o^
remains of several ot^hlr i ^ ^^"""^ w^ere thi
Captain Inglefleld and hL ffi"' ^^'^ 'aid to reoMe
aao™ withficttTaad' L^v^r^r*^ men w^R
ile^f Ornenak; and one Idam B^er'""' " """ed
one ot file former Arctic PvfiU-.' *''' * «eamen in
that here Sir John iVanUin L^nl!""""' ^'^ averted
Mvage and starving naf/t '', ''®*'' assailed bv tha
«'?^ had been mwlered f V f^\ ^«'« he an^ ^
2n ."""J^ ^""l been bu^f,:, ""^^ '''at here i„ L™
probable one : hnt Oar.f • t "f"® ^^orv was an iS

ermine the 'sptf t&h/vtl''!'* determi^d *£
^0 report. Several ll^i''^'-^'"* 'est the truth of

found,'^eomp<i^d of heavir r^r ^""^ '"deed he?^
|«nediatel5;pulleddownind?^5'^°'''-'«- ^i^er were
But nothing U di^S save a T'^^^'^^P^eted!
lish bones and the bones Af!!i ^*'«« quantity of
seem to have been deported ?h '" ,?""'^'«' w^ch
nse. In the vilWe S !.. ^'^ i°' «»»e fiituw
derground hoveHTccu3 ZH"^^ of « few ^
."MUX, wero found, "nS^"^ ^* starved Esam-
uit«uW to .nppl/ai'SSl»^«ealand walru8fl2^
rr / «• wants oi natmw during ^

414

rBooius Of ABono Dnoomnr.

u 1

nine long months of winter, which these wretehed
boingfi are compelled each year to endure.

Oaptain In^leficld determined to continue the
thorough exammation of the shores of Wolstenholme
Sound. He did so, and discovered several islands
which were not to be found on any chart. These
islands he respectively termed the Three Sister Bees,
Manson Isle, and Abernethy Isle. During this por-
tion of the cruise, the voyageurs liad not encoun-
tered as yet much of the severe extremes of northern
cold. It was still mid-summer, and the trim steamer
was able in the absence of compact ice, to sail rap-
idly through known and unknown eeai, in opposition
both to tide and wind. On the 25th, the Isabel
reached the Gary Islands ; and from this point be^an
the voyage of Captain lugleiield into untraveled
waters, and into regions which had not been explored,
at least in a northward direction, by any of his pre-
decessors. At this point, in the summer months, a
few wretched Esquimaux manage to support exist-
ence; and Captain Inglelield carefully examined
their huts to ascertain whether any memento of the
expedition of Sir John Franklin might exist among '
them. No article of European manufacture was
found, exc<)pt a knife-blade stamped 13. "Wilson, set in
an ivory haudle, a broken tin canister, and several
small pieces of steel, curiously Hxed in a piece of bone.
A piece of rope was also obtained, having an eye in
it ; but this was supposed to have drifted ashore from
some whaling vessel. No trace of the lost naviga*
tors had as yet been seen since the commencement
of this expedition.

Captain Inglefield resumed his voyage, and as he
rapidly invaded those new seas, throng the tireless '
power of steam, he discovered man^ new idands, at
that period of the vear free from their monstrous bur-
dens of ice, to which he save appropriate names.
One he ciJled Northumberland Island, another Her-
bert Mandi and a third, Milne Island. At this point

to enter on it. "xptX'^'^tft ""f- *»^-'<^TS
of discorery. Bnt as Sir Joh^'lf ?P"°? PWspect.
had b*n to travel nortW.^ j""'^'"' slnstrnction.
point, if ho ever reactelf*'"' '"«»''">'<J from tyj
•7 to follow that dT^Sted roZ' f/ ^-"^ »«^ "
seek him was still retained A^li^ *'l« >ntention to
glefield was compelled toreUnS"^^ ^V'**" In
of this summer sea. On the X "«• *a' o»Plo™tioi.
?bel reached Cape Alexanl, f ^ "'^..^"gnst the Is.
■ng northward tho ^.u .' *"<' still boldlv atdZ.
of the Polar sCnfw^T'aW^ r ^^f "-^ S"^
nronsdip into the PoTa^Bas'n "'-??'"^« ^er adven!
this point were 145 fathnm= r?* "^^ sonndinas at
hope of Captain I that fi.^ J^ ^^ a' 'his timfthi
Ws way to Wrings It^?" ^^ Po«t he might find

«.^g^navi^torfomeaXoa f^'^l

?£« h ';?y' ^^'-to the northe'rn r ?^k"« ""o'o-
tte boundless fields of half mpifIS hemisphere, tinges

hues; and a brightness and hi-fr '"""' "'"» <= •im^n

ens, which almost remind ?h«„?""'""'^fi" 'he he^v"

i'l v^'r '"'' oJ'a'fflsTan iLtn T' "'!''« boasted

oes of the steamship, whi^ !!i,'i ^ "'"'.onstomed ech-
frozen wastes, whicli IJul ^^"^^ rapidly over half
traversed at a' ^ry sW 3 Z'"^' '""^^ ^"'T Wo

Captain Ingle&ld was now""" T"**
known as Smith's Sound th«„ o^'o^ng what is
fannation of Baffin's Bav T. '^^^ *"• "o'them con!
body of water, which foL. ^® ''^^"^ shore of th^

w« composed' ^ a higrrLrofI '^^ *''''«' Ooe^
aese were caUed aft! r &^p ? ^'^^ mountainT

416

OF ABOnO D1800TBBV.

.:ft

111

-'1
I

i'v

the name cf Yiotoria Head, in honor of the BritiHh
queen. Thns also on the eastern shore of this sea, the
most northern point discovered by Captai n 1. h e named
after the Danish monarch, Fredenck VJUL. After
steaming several days longer in a north-west0m di-
rection, an observation was made of the position of
the vessel, when it was found that she had reached
78° 28' 21* north latitude. From this it appears that
Captain Inglefield has the credit, according to his own
computation, of reaching the distance of 140 miles
further north than had been attained by any previ-
ous navigator. Tlie vessel was now surrounded by
immense floating icebergs. The frozen shores of the
ocean receded far away to the east and to the west A
furious storm of wind and hail drove directly in the
face of the bold navigators, as they continued their
course toward the pole. Ko traces of Sir John Frank-
lin had yet been discovered. To further persist in
the course in which they were then sailing, was only
calculated to hem them in with the oceans of ice
which the rapidly approaching winter would congeal
around them ; and toe moment had arrived, in the
progress of the expedition, when it became necessarv
to determine what final course should be pursued.
While the commander and his officers were deliber*
ating on the most suitable decision to be selected,
the vessel was suddenly surrounded with perils such
as she had not encountered since the commencement
of the voyage. A vast land-pack of ice bad floated
from the west, unpercoived through the heavy fo^ ;
and immediately the Isabel became involved in its
angrv, turbulent, and daneerous embrace. The swell
Ufted the ship far into the pack ; and the violence
and fury of tne troubled masses were indicated by
tiie loud roar of the waters surging on the vast floe-
pieces by which the vessel was surrounded. The
nrightful chaos of rolling masses, tossing the vessel to
and fro like a feather in their midst, seemed to render
esoape from the impending peril of being eithei

^"'

TOTAOB or TBS ■TBJLMEB IBIBBL.

417

ernshed or snbmerged, almost impossible. The only
possibillitj of rescue consisted in threading their way
amid the rolline and tossing fragments, by the aid of
t^e steam engine, after first getting the head of the
vessel free from its contact with the ice. As the ves-
sel carefully and slowly went forward amid the fioat-
ine ice, immense masses dropped astern one after anr
other into her wake. She escaped at length throngh
every danger ; though the edges of the fan of the
screw were brightened from frequent abrasion against
the ice.

Oaptain Inglefield now continued to sail eastward.
He passed by and observed new islands which wore
then unknown and nameless, to which he applied ap-

Eropriate epithets. On the 1st of September the sea
adbecome so completelv encumbered with the float-
ing ice as to make the nirther progress of the vessel
both difficult and dangerous. Captain Inglefield then
determined to steer for the purpose of meeting the
squadron of Sir Edward Belcner, which had also oeen
sent out for the purpose of searching those seas for
Sir John Franklm by the British government ; and
which would winter there in accordance with their
instractions. Captain Inglefield was induced to pur-
sue this course in order that he might carry his sur-
plus provisions, stores, and coals to that squadron :
and tnat he might convey to them the latest news and
information from England. It was his intention then,
unless some special service required his exertions, to
return to England with intelligence from the squad-
ron of Sir £. Belcher, and the prospects of success
which still attended their labors of discovery. That
squadron Captain Inglefield knew was then stationed
At Beech^y Island, and thither he immediately steered.
So severe had the weather already become, that the
heavy seas which broke over the Isabel continually
Croze, and her bows became one mass of ioe. binding
the anchor fast to her side. After several days of
rapid sailing, Beeohey Ldatid waa reached; but the

418

FBOOBBM 0I> ABOnO DISOOTSBT.

riif

■mMbJ*! I

i.\

Nortb Star alone was fonnd there. The rest of Sb
E. Belcher's equadron had sailed, about three weeks
before, up Wellington channel, and it was Buppoeed
that he hac steered thence through the open waten
beyond Parry Strait.

It was on this Island that Captain Inlegfleld was
shown the three graves of some of Sir John Franklin's
crew, to which reference has already been made on
page 376 of this volume. Plunging through the
snow which was knee-deep, he reached, under the
guidance of one of the officers of the North Star, those
sad and lonely resting places of mortalitv. He found
them unchanged from what they haa been when
visited by Lieutenant De Haven; and he was in-
formed by his guide that a polar bear of monstrous
size was frequently seen keeping his grim and cheer-
less vigils over the dead, and sitting on the graves.
Captain Inglefield picked up some of the meat canis-
ters which lay scattered on the island, and some relics
of canvas and wood which were supposed to have be-
longed to the missing ships. He obtained from the
commander of the Korth Star all the information ne-
cessary in reference to the condition and prospects of
Sir John Belcher and Captain Kellett, both of whom
held commands in that squadron. They had as yet
discovered no trace of Sir John Franklin ; but it was
their purpose to pass the winter in the Polar Seas, for
the purpose of renewing their researches in the en-
suing spring.

As this voyage of tho Isabel was only a summer
cruise, and as the vessel was neither adapted nor in-
tended to confront th"^ overwhelming rigors of the
winter season in the Arctic regions, it was but proper
that, as the season was now rapidly advancing. Cap-
tain Inglefield should resume nis voyage homeward,
to escape the greater perils wh^ch delay would entaiL
Accoroingly, on the 10th of September the Isabel com-
menced to sail in a southern direction. On the 12th
the reached Mount Possession. On the 14th she was

TOTAOB OF THB STEAMEB ISABEL.

410

the
1 ne-
ts of
bom
yet
was
,for
en-

^mer
•in-
tbe

Jap*
[ard,
ItaiL
50in-
L2th
iwos

tfppoBite Cape Bowen. Captain Inglefield landed
liere to examine the traces of a cairn, which was said
i» exist. But he saw nothing save the large and deep
footprints of a great Polar bear, and those of the small
Arctic fox.

Here the further progress of the Isabel along the
coast "was stopped by the presence of vast fields of ice.
It became necessary to press along the edge of the
pack, and seek for an opening to permit her to ad-
vance. This pack seemed to have been collected
here by the immense icebergs which had run aground
on the Hecla And Griper banks, and thence drifted
south by the continual current which existed on those
western shores. The pack stretched away, as far as
the eye could leAch, both southward and northward.
A storm of snow tame on, such as one sees only in
Arctic latitudes. The sea also became exceedingly
rough and boisterous; and wave after wave broke
over the whole length of the vessel. Each plunge
filled the ringing and hung the spars with monstrous
icicles ; and the waves irozo as they flooded the deck,
the ropes, and the sails ; bo that the hands of the sail-
ors were frozen fast the iostaat they touched either
of them.

On the 21st of Seotember the weather moderated,
and the Isabel boldly dashed through the crevices
and channels of the pack. Pancake ice was rapidly
forming around them, giving the mariners warning
that they must soon vacate that locality, or else 4)e
frozen in, beyond the power oi deliverance, for the
winter. Bapidly the Isabel dashed forward, impelled
by the unwearied power of her engine. By noon on
the 23d, she had cleared the pack, had traveled a hun-
dred and seventeen miles in twenty-four hours, and
found herseli' in 69° north latitude. Here Captain
Inglefield encountered a gale of the itmoBt foiTy
which continued during five days incessantly. The
ocean waves now attained the size of mountams, and
exceeded in violence and fury even those which loah

420

PBOOBBSS OF ABOTIO DISOOTEBT.

LI'?

I''

the bold promontory of Cape Ilom,^ where the waiers
of two great oceans roll together in hostile rivalry.
Vast waves continually flooded the decks fore and
aft. Torrents of water drenched almost every portion
of the vessel, carrying the seamen with it into tlie lee
scuppers. The drifting sleet and snow drove so fierce-
ly into the eyes of the sailors, that it was almost im-
possible for them to see, or to execute orders. Nev-
ertheles», the gallant ship sailed manfully through it
all, and safely outrode the gale, though with the loss
of her spare spars, and the total ribboning of her
sails.

In order to rej)air this damage Captain Inglefield
was compelled, after the storm lulled, to steer for the
nearest port of Uolsteinburg, in order to make repaii*8.
This port he reached on the 2d of October. During
the week which the captain spent here, the anniver-
sary of the birth-day of the king of Denmark occurred ;
which gave an occasion for the observation of the
peculiarities of the Esquimaux tribes, who here live
as the remotest subjects of that monarch, under the
Buperinteudence of a governor sent from Copenhagen.
An entertainment was ffiven at the house of the gov-
ernor. Esquimaux of both sexes attended, danced
their native dances, drank their brandy-punch fur-
nished both by the governor and by Captain Ingle-
field, and became elated and uproarious in the ex-
treme. The governor's wife was an Esquimaux wo-
m&u ; and Captain Inglefield had the honor of c.we«
cuting with her the intricate mazes of an Esquimaux
'Quadrille, to the monotonous scraping of a crippled
fiddle, bound around and held together with diverg
strings and splinters.

On the 7tn of October the Isabel again put to sea,
and again she encountered a storm of unusual vio-
lence. The helmsman was very nearly washed over-
board. On the 13th the gale moderated, and the

TOTAOS or THE gTEAMBB DABKU

421

▼ossel then continned hor way across the Atlantic.
No incident worthy of special notice occurred dnring
the rest of the homeward voyage. On the 4th of No-
vember the Isabel anchored at Stroraness, having been
absent precisely four months from the day of starting.
And although this expedition, taking place as it did
in the summer months, was devoid of the usual ex-
treme horrors and vicissitudes which attend Arctio
researches, it accomplished results which were by no
means of secondary importance. Captain Inglefield
carefully examined the unknown eastern shore of the
Polar Basin, as far north as 78° 35', throwing con-
siderable light upon the disputed question, whether
Baffin's Bay opens into the Polar Basin. He also
explored the waters of the shores of Smith Sound, in
search of Sir John Franklin, but in vain. Jones
Sound was then examined, -^ith the same result, and
he ascertained the probable fact that this sound is a
gulf having no outlet, except perhaps by some small
n'ozen strait into the Polar Sea. Lancasteii' Sound
was also visited, and the western coast of Baffin's Bay
as far south as the river Clyde. Throughout a coast
of six hundred continuous miles, many alterations and
additions were made in the geography of those coun-
tries. And altogether, for a private expedition of
uo very great expense, executed in a small vessel,
i^hough amply provisioned and stored, the results at-
^ lined were as important as could reasonably have
been expected.

ElOUTEBN MONTHS IN TUB PoLAB BsQIONS IN BEABOH 09

Sm John Franklin's ExpsDrnoN, in the teabs
1850 — 61, BY Lieutenant Sherard Osbobn, with
THE Steam Vessels Pioneeb and Intbepid.

In May, 1850, this expedition was fitted out at
Woolwich, for the purpose of continuing the search
after the missing marinem. The instructions of the
British Admirahty to the commar-ier were, that he

■HRmnMH

FE0OREB8 OF ABOTIO DI800YEBT.

should examine Barrow's Straits south-westerly to
Cape "Walker, westerly toward Melville Island, and
north-westerly up Wellington CXiannel,

On the 26th of May the expedition approached tha
shores of Greenland, and came within view of Cape
Farewell. They proceeded rapidly on until they
reUched their first place of stoppage, the Whale Fish
Isles. A day was spent here in taking in provisions
and fowls. From this point the view of the shores
of Greenland n^ a distance was picturesque in the
extreme. Its ^4 I's, its lofty peaks, and its frozen
headlands present every variety of shape; while
between them and the vessels, the sea was covered
with an infinite variety of tossing icebergs of every
possible size and proportion, exhibiting the richest
emerald hues, and glowing with the deepest azure
tints. The awful silence of the scene was impressive
in the highest degree, a silence which would often be
suddenly broken by a distant roar reverberating
along the surface of the deep, and among the frozen
masses. It was the breaking up of some vast ice-
hergs, whose fragments would roll over into the sea,
plunge beneath its surface, and cover the spot of its
descent with foam and spray. This process was re-
peated at short intervals, in every direction of the
compass around them, and as far as their eyes could
reach.

The 29th of June still found Captain Osborn cruising
opposite the northern extremity of Greenland. He
here be^an to experience the dangers that" accom-
panied the necessity which he sometimes felt of an-
choring to icebergs. This operation is frequently in-
dispensable in Arctic regions, when progress in the
required direction is for a time impossible. The ice-
bergs in consequence of their immense size are often
agroimd, and thus seamen may anchor fast to them
in two hundred fathoms of water, without any more
trouble than digging a hole in the iceberg, and in-
■erting a hook into 1^ CAlle^ an ice-anchor. This is

Ifl

UBUTBNAST OSOOBN'b EXFJEDlTICnf*

428

attached to a whale line, which enables the ship to
riile ont nnder the leo of this natural breakwater, and
often thus to escape both the violence of the winds,
and the rude shocks of a lee pack.

But tJio dangers which sometimes accompany this
process are considerable. Sometimes the very first
stroke of the man setting the ice-anchor, causes a por-
tion of the iceberg to break oif, and the personfi em-
ployed in the work run great risk of being crushed by
the falling masses. Sometimes pieces of ice become
detached from the upper portions of the berg, and
falling on the ships below, liave injured spars, and
crushed sailors to death. Occasionally these masses
have been so immense as even to sink the vessel.

On the 6th of July Captain Osborn Lad bis first
experience of the real perils of the Arctic world. All
hands were at dinner when the news suddenly came
down from the deck, that a vast body of ice was ap-
proaching under the pressure of a strong southerly
gale. A heavy brown vapor preceded it, under
which the ice gleamed fiercely, and the floes were rap-
idly pressing together. The best security against
danger in cases of this kind, is the preparation of
docks in the body of the ice, which are cut in the*
portion which is nrm and solid. Into these the ships
are then inserted, and they are thus protected from
the collisions c*^ the loose fragments. In this case
one hundred persons were instantly on the solid ice^
their triangles were rigged, and their long ice-saws
were at work. A hundred manly voices accompanied
their labor with the jolly sailor songs of merry old
England. The ice was about three leet in thickness,
and the saws employed were ten feet in length. Very
soon the vast cavity intended to receive the ships began
to take form and shape, and they then were removed
into them. The relief was much needed; for the
pressure of the pack extended itself some ten miles
to the north of the position of the vessels ; the col-
Uaiohs between the noes and tho iceberg becamepro-

ii«

* ill

PB00BE8S OF ABOTIO DIBOOVEBY.

rt. >

5f ' [»' i !

IN '

digions ; and had the ships been between them, thej
would inevitably have suffered severely. But safely
ensconced in their docks, the export seamen could
gaze with pleasure at the sublime spectacle presented
for many miles on either side of them.

In spite of the vigilance of Capt Osborn, his ships
became entangled on the 20th oi July, in the midst
of a heavy pack, six feet in thickness. So great was
the pressure that every plank and timber was crack-
ing and groaninff. The vessels were thrown over on
their sides, and lifted up bodily, the bulkheads crack-
ing, the decks archi^^ from the strain, and even the
Bcupper-pieces turning out from their mortices. The
ice was rapidly piling up as high as the bulwarks,
around the vessels. There seemed to be no possible
remedy against the dentruction of the ships. The
sailors quickly brought their bundles of clothes on
deck, for the purpose of taking refuse on the ice.
At this moment a deep dent in the side of the Pion-
eer, and the breaking of twenty-one of her timbers,
indicated her great danger. But fortunately, at the
very moment when it was thought that she must be
crushed to pieces, the strain of the floe-edge suddenly
eased, and the ship was saved from destruction.

From the 20th to the Slst of July the squadron con-
tinned to pursue their route ; yet so impenetrable was
the ice, that but seven miles was made during the
whole of that interval, in the right direction 1 Bv
the 13th of August the squadron had passed through
Mellville Bay, and had reached Cape York. They
were still a considerable distance from the chief point
of research. Yet here they were detained for two
days in chasing up the groundless fabrication of Ad-
am Beek, alluded to in tne previous article, in refer-
ence to the destruction of Sir John Franklin and his
crews at this point, by the native Esquimaux.

On the 15th of August Captain Osborn struck we'^t-
ward, and entered a wida sea of water which seemed
Bnobetraoted by the ice. The shores of this portion

UBUTENiNT OSBOBN's EXPEDITIOV.

49«

of Baffin's Bay, which is termed the "West Land, ap-
peared to be free from snow, and to be even compar-
atively verdant and gonial. At Button's Point the
commander landed, and was able, at this season of
the summer, to kill both deer and salmon. The na-
tives of this region liad here erected numerous un-
roofed winter houses, of the rudest structure; and
the navigators discovered many cairns, standing gen-
erally in pairs. These were instantly pulled aown,
for tne purpose of discovering their hidden contents.
Nothing however was found of a suspicious or sug-

festivo nature. These cairns seemed to be nothing
ut marks erected by the Esquimaux, to enable them
to discover, on the return of winter, the places where
they had stored their sea-blubber gocM. A ring of
stones several feet high were all the indications of
these Esquimaux huts which appeared above the f ur-
face of the ground.

It was on the 22d of August that this expedition
ontered Lancaster Sound. This is the great gate-^rav
to those Arctic waters, around which so many thrill-
ing associations cluster of maritime adventure, suffer-
ing, and discovery. It was first explored by the bold
Baffin, two hundred years ago, and was named by
him after the duke of Lancaster. Baffin termed it a
sound. Sir John Ross, forty years since, discoveired
that it was a bay ; and Parry, who has not unfitly
been termed the prince of Arctic navigators, uiitil
the vastly superior abilities and services of the im-
mortal Kane justly deprived him of that honorable
eminence, explorea this bay throughout the extent of
600 miles toward Behring's Straits.

It was to complete the exploration of the remain-
ing 600 miles of this unknown region, that the exjte*
dition of Sir John Franklin and his 140 gallant asiK)-
ciates had been devoted. Hence in pursuing tlsia
line of travel and adventure, Lieutenant Osbo'n
justly supposed that he was following the most pre V
able and most certain ooui'se to ascertain the £ftte t

426

raOOBESS OF ABOTTO DIBOOTEBT.

f :,.

that lost and unfortunate expedition. Ho had al-
ready discovered one important fact in reference to
the phenomena of the Arctic regions ; or if ho had
not absolutely discovered it, he ascertained its cer-
tainty. This was that the iceberg, the most wonder-
ful peculiarity of those climes, is the creation of the
glacier. It had formally been supposed, even by the
most learned, that the iceberg was the accumulation
of the ice and snow which the lapse of ages had pro-
duced ; that a vast circle of ice many miles in height
and depth, surrounded the pole like an eternal belt ;
that these huffe cupolas of ice towered far up into
the cheerless heavens of the north ; transcendmg in
size and altitude the utmost creations of human arch-
itecture ; and that these stupendous icebergs were
merely fragments which had become detached, prob-
ably by their own weight, from the parent mass, and
had then floated away into more southern seas. This
fanciful conception has now been exploded ; and it
is proved that the iceberg is only known to exist
where there is land of a nature adapted to form the
glacier. Accordingly, Captain Osborn reasoned that
where icebergs burdened the ocean, glacier lands
could not be far distant; and he dir^^cted the move-
ments of his exploring squadron accordingly. It was
by following this principle that Sir James Ross dis-
covered the circumpolar continent of Queen Victo-
ria's Land, in the Southern or Antarctic hemisphere.
On the 26th of August the ships entered Regent's
Inlet. The nights were only two houi*s in duration.
Next day a pack of ice was discovered some 10 miles
to the eastward. They instantly sailed westward,
giving the intruders very wide sea-room. They soon
reached Beechey's Island, on which the tliree graves
of Sir John Franklin's seamen were to bo iound, and
other evidences which showed that he hud sojourned
there during 1846-46, the first winter of their ab*
sence. This circumstance confuted ilm opinions of
thoie who held Uiat Sir John Franklin had perished

UBUTKNANT OSBORN'S BXFBDRIOV.

497

Us-
ito-

reb

Lud

led

lb.

lof

in the depths of Baffin's Bay on )m ontward voyage ;
and proved that he had advanced safely to a very re-
mote point in Arctic travel and discovery. On
Beechey's Island Captain Osborn saw another mourn-
ful trace of Sir John Franklin. It was the remnant
of a garden, with a neatly shaped oval ontline, the
borders carefully covered with moss, lichen, and an-
emones, which lie had transplanted from a more ge-
nial clime ; and these even yet continued to show
some traces of vitality. At some distance from this
garden the foundations of a store-house were discov-
ered. These consisted of an interior and exterior
embankment, into which oak and elm scantling had
been stuck, as supports to the roofing. Within the
enclosure some empty coal-sacks were found, and
some wood shavings. It is probable that this store-
house had been constructed by Sir John Franklin to
preserve a portion of the abundant provisions with
which his decks had been encumbered when h(9 left
Whale Fish Islands. Captain Osborn also discovered
a pair of Caslmiere gloves which had been laid out
to dry by one of the lost crews ; on each of which a
small stone had been placed to prevent them from
being swept away by the wind. They had rested
there, having been probably forgotten by their owner,
ever since 1846 !

A^aiu on this occHsion were the three lonely graves
of Sir John Franklin's seamen scanned by a sailor's
eye, anct wept over by thoM gallant adventurers.
Ihese graves are simple and Ljat in their appearance,
such as British sailors erect i rer the bodies of their
departed messmates, in eveiy quarter of the globe,
wnether in the frozen zones vf tiie north, the coral-
girded isles of the south, the erdant and spicy vales
of the east, or the gold-giiV k1 climes of the west
They are graves whicli reniiu i the observer of some
quiet church-yard in Englar. i or in our own land,
where the departed sleep be\.Aath the very eaves oi
the humble sanctuary, surroiLaded by the green tar(

raoOBlBS OF ASOnO DUOOYKBT.

the waving grass, and the blooming rose, willi which
the hand of affection, or the undisturbed frnitf^lnen
of nature has surrounded them. One ^rave of the
three is especially suggestive of mournful thoughts.
It is that of *^ J. .Ilartnell, B. A., of the ship Ereous ;
died January 4th, 1846. Aged 25 years." Here
was a youth who had been reared amid the classic
shades and the ennobling associations of one of En-
gland's great universities — either a Cantab or an Ox-
onian — and strange to say, he was destined to lav his
form to take its long last sleep in the lonely and cneer-
less solitude of that fi .^zen zone ; and that, too, in the
prime of his years, and far distant from all that was
connected with the brilliant hopes of his youthful
daysl

When about to leave Beechey Island, Captain Os-
bom found it difficult to determine what course
should be taken. It was evident that Sir John Frank-
lin had selected one of three routes, in 1846. The
first 'vas south-west by Cape Walker; the second,
north- .^est by Wellington Channel ; the third, west
by Melville Island. Vague reports were current
among the crews, that some of Captain Penny's peo-
ple had seen sledge-marks on the eastern shores of
Erebus and Terror Bav. Captain Osborn determined
in person, first to explore Beechey Island, in that di-
rection. He landed on the north shore of Union
Bay, at the base of the cliffs of Cape Spencer, and
soon discovered a deep slodge-mark which had been
cut through the edge of one of the ancient natural
terraces on the beach. It was in a line between the
cairn of meat cans which Franklin had erected on
the northern spur of Beechey Island, to a valley be-
tween the Capes Enues and Bowdeu. From its ap-
pearance, it nad been evidently an outward-bound
sledge, and its depth denoted that it was heavily la-
den. It was an additional evidence of the tbrmer
presence of Franklin on that island. Upon further
examination, various other slodge-marka were di»

LIEDTENANT OSBOBN^B EXPBDmOV.

429

(y,f«(ed on the island. At one spot they were very
niCimerou8,and proved tliat there a rendezvous had been
appointed for the purpose of landing some of the
contents of the ships. From this point some of the
sledge marks ran northward into a gorge through the
hills ; others were directed toward Caswell's Tower, a
singular mass of limestone rock, on the shore of Rad-
stock Bay, which served as a useful landmark to ah
vessels approaching either from the east or the west.

Captain Osborn here divided his party, and each
followed the sledge-marks in an o; )osite direction.
He discovered the site of a circular tent, which had
evidently been constructed and used by a shooting
party from the Erebus or Terror. The stones which
h;id been used to coniino the canvas to its place, lay
around. Several large stones well blackened with
smoke, indicated where the fire-place had been ; and
porter- hot des, meat-cans, pieces of paper, and feath-
ers, were strewed about. Yet no written line or
mark was detected, to throw any light on the great
mystery )\hich occupied their minds. After seven
hours of hard walking. Captain Osborn and his men
returned to the ships. Such were all the traces
which the utmost industry and scrutiny could dis-
cover of Sir John Franklin, in this last known spot
of his habitation. From the 1st to the 4th of Sep-
tember the ships lay waiting for an opening in the
tixed ice, to enable them to resume their voyage. At
length on the 5th, the appearance of the ice and the
direction of the wind being favorable, Captaii- Os-
born immediately gave orders to proceed across V\rel-
lington Channel toward Barlow Inlet.

Before this course had been pursued for any di»-
tance, the channel became blocked up with a vast
held of floating ice. A northerly gale began to blow
furiously over its surface ; and the ships oi the squad-
^-on were swept along with the ice, in whose embrace
they were, out of the channel toward Leopold Island.
Ihe Bf^uadron drifted at tlie rate of a mile per hovur,

130

nOQKUB OV ABOTIO DSOOyKBT.

"TiS'

toward tho sonth-onst. SucUlonly an opening in the
pack occnrned, and the stoara-ongino was instantly
Drought into roquisition, to enable tho seamen to ex-
tricate themselves. Soon they reached again the
open water ; and found themselves near the sqnadron
of Captain Penny, and the American vessels, com-
manded by De llavcn. These were then making
sail under a full press of canvas for Cape Ilotham.

When in this position on the 11th of September,
1850, the Arctic winter descended on tlie adventur-
ers. The heavens became overclouded with black-
ness, and the atmospliere filled with hail, snow, and
sleet. A heavy sea began to roll, and tho loose frag-
ments of the rapidly congealing ice again to close
around them. A snug harbor was happily discov-
ered ftr the winter, between Capes Ilotham and Mar-
tyr, on the south side of Cornwullis Island. Here
tlie Pioneer and Intrepid were taken and secured.
Several parties were sent out to carry provisions and
establish depots on the intended routes of the dilfer-
ent expeditions which would explore this region in
the spring of 1851. Lieutenant McClintook carried
out a depot toward Melville Island, and Lieutenant
Aldrich, taking another toward Lowthor Island.
Lieutenant Mecham was also sent to examine Corn-
wallis Island, between Assistance Harbor and Cape
Martyr, for traces of the progress of Sir John
Franklin.

Captain Osborn determined to embrace this op-
portunity to connect the search troir. the spot whci'O
Lieutenant Mecham left the coast, to the poiut at
which Lieutenant McCliutock again took it up, thus
completing the survey of this whole region, throu«(h
which it was very naturally inferred that Sir JoLu
Franklin had passed. He started on the 10th of Oc-
tober, provided with five day's provisions. The party
consisted of six persons. Ihe thermometei was six
degreea above zero, and accordingly the^ did not
•tt&r from the soYeritj of tho weather. AiW «

UEUTBNAlfT OSBOBN'B EXPEDXTIOV*

481

march of three honrs thoj came to Gape Martyr.
Striking inward on Comwallis Island, Captain Os*
born camo suddenly in view of a structure which at
once excited the utmost interest, with the hope that
it might be some unknown monument of the lost
navigators. It was a round, conical-shaped building,
twenty feet in circumference at the base. The apex
hud fallen in, but the height of what remained was
live feet «ix inches. It was well built, and those who
had reared it seemed to have well understood the
strength of the arched roof, to resist the weight of the
immenue amount of snow which falls in those regions.
Much skill was exhibited in the arrangement of the
slates of limestone with which the building was con-
structed. The stones of the apex which had fallen
within the walls were quickly rem(>ved, but thoy dis-
covered nothing which could enlighten them as to
the origin of the structure. Yet it was evident from
the thick moss which adhered to the walls, that it
was not of recent origin, and that in fact it must
have been built many years before the date of Sir
John Franklin's voyage. The position of this mys-
terious monument was lonely in the extreme. If
seemed to be a solitary landmark in that polar world,
of the former and transient abode of some unknown
visitant; and it bore clear evidence that it was not
the product of the labor of the rude Esquimaux, who
sometimes in their summer wanderings reached even
these remote latitudes. Nothing more of interest
was discovered on Cornwallis Island ; and Captain
Oaborn returned to his ships.

On the ITth of October the commander of the
ships which composed this squad ion, determined that
as soon as thoy could couuuouce operations in the en
suing spring, Captain Penny was to continue the ex-

Eloration ot Wellington Channel, while Captain Os-
orn was to continue his researches toward Melville
Island, and from Cape Walker toward the south-west
With tho settlement of this arrangement, ail tha !»•

432

PB00BS8B Of ABOnO DISOOYXBT.

bora of the squadron for the year 1850 closed, as the
Qtmost rigors of a polar winter were now npon them.
The upper docks were then covered in. The stoyea
and warming apparatus were set to work. The boats
were secured on the ice. All the lumber was re-
in jved from the upper decks. The masts and yards
were made as snug as possible ; and rows of posts
were placed between the ships, to designate the way
amid the darkness and storms of winter. Holes were
cut through the ice in order to obtain a ready supply
of water in case of fire ; and arrangements were made
to ensure the cleanliness of the ships and the crews.
On the 8th of November several officers ascended the
heights of Griffith's Island, and at noon caught the
last glimpse of the sun, which they were destined
to see, for some months ; though it was then 17 miles
below the horizon, and the rays which they beheld
were those only of refraction. The precise position of
the vessels was 74^° of north latitude.

Though the sun had ceased to visit those Arctic
^ heavens, it must uot be supposed that the bold naviga-
tors wera in darkness. The southern horizon was il-
lumed oach day during several hours at noon, by a
deep and rosy red light, mixed with pink and blue.
Toward the north the prevalent appearance of the
heavens was a cold, bluish-black. During the rest of
the twenty-four hours, a gray twilight prevailed around
them, except when the moon was full. At that pe-
riod a subdued splendor was cast over the frozen face
of nature, which finds no parallel in the natural phe-
nomena of other and more favored climes. Thfi love-
liness of an Arctic moonlight none can know, save
those who themselves have seen it.

Thus shut out from all the world, the adventurers
endeavored to wear away the monotonous months of
winter. The festivals of Christmas and New Yeai
were observed with unusual glee and festivity, with
Auoh means as were within their reach. Sometimei
^iie weather was too severe to permit any oommiini-

UBUTENAin OSBOBN S EXPEDITION.

488

cation between the vessels. During a portion of the
time, the snow was drifted to such immense heights
around the ships, that it excluded all view o: th<, sur-
rounding wastes. The vessels only three hundred
yards distant I'rom each other, were often invisible.
Frequently as the furious storms of the north swept
over the surrounding ice for many miles, the floor vi-
brated and trembled with the violence of the shock,
and communicated this singular motion to the vessels.
The aurora borealis alone disappointed those who
were connected with this expedition. It was deficient
in brilliancy of color. It was also inferior in extent
to what they anticipated. The scries of concentric
semi-circles of light were subdued by dark spaces
between them, which diminished its luster and gen-
eral splendor. The snow fell almost incessantly.
When heavy ffales blew the vessels were nearly
smothered ; and vast drifts 15 feet thick above the
decks, had to be removed by the continual labors of
the seamen.

Amid such scenes as these, the long winter slowlj
passed away. Early in March the crews began to
stir. On the 11th of that month the thermometer
was 41° below zero; and yet this temperature was
not considered as too seveio for active operations.
On the 4th of April, 1851, preparations were made
to travel on sledges, for the purpose of pursuing the
inland searches. Captain Ommaney was directed to
cross Barrow's Strait and Cape Walker. Lieutenant
Aldrich was sent with two slcuges an 1 14 men toward
the unknown channel of Byam-Mari in Island. Lieu-
tenant McCormick was dispatched to Melville Island,
to prosecute his researclies as far as Winter Harbor,
with two sledffes and 13 men. Other ofScers were
sent in other directions ; making in all fifteen sledses,
manned by 105 men, who were thus distributea in
various directions, in order to obtain information and
indications of the career and fate of the squadron of
Sir John Franklin.

484

PBOOBEaS OV ABOmO DI800TEBT.

-vi;;:"

i^j

8> ' '

iri

It was the 12th of April when these expedition!
started forth from the ships. Our space forbids ua
to follow all their adventures, which were exciting and
perilous in the extreme, over vast tracts of snow and
ice, of the most monstrous and irregular shapes.
The whole coast of Cape Walker's Land was sur-
veyed. Many of the seamen became snow-blind, and
many had frozen feet. They beheld vast tracts of
snow-covered land hugged by the icy seas, over which
a silence and solitude sullenly brooded, not unlike
that of a primitive chaos. Mosi of the sledge parties
accomplished journeys of 600 miles, in various direc-
tions, auring tae fifty days the expedition lasted. Af-
ter the lapse of this period, or nearly so, all che par-
ties returned to the ships. Some had searched the
whole western ooast of Bathurst Island. Some had
been to Winter Harbor, Buehman Cove, and Cape
Dundas. Others had explored the whole eastern
coast of Mellville Island. In eighty days the compa-
ny under Lieutenant McClintock had traveled 800
miles, dragging their sledges containing their provis-
ions after them. He and iiis men had performed the
greatest labor of any of their associates. Yet no-
where, amid all thevje various researches, in every
possible and available direction, had the least trace
been detected of Sir John Franklin, no tradition of
his presence, no monument or evidence of his fate I

On the 14th of August, 1851, tlie vessels steered
for Joiios' Sound, which they entered on the evening
of the 15th. This sound was discovered to be the
narrowest about the entrance. The scenery of the
shores is magnificent. Ten miles inland a huge
dome of pure white snow ascended to the height of
4,000 feet, presenting one of the most singular spec-
tacles which could well be imagined. Beaching
Capo Hardwicke, which was discovered to be in fact
a group of islands, they struck eastward toward Cape
OUurence, which seemed to be the utmost limit of the
amd in that direction. Proceeding onward in their

LIEUTENANT OSBOBN'S BXPEDITIOV.

489

lec-

Pg
ict

sonthom route, the squadron soon came in sight of
Gary Isles, and then of the flat-topped region between
Cape York and Dudley Digges. The steamers then
rapidly advanced on tlieir homeward way. On the
28th of August they reached Wolstenholme Island.
Here they were stopped by the floating ice ; and an-
choring fast to an iceberg, they awaited the first open-
ing which might occur. Here began traces again of
the noraade Esquimaux ; and thus they seemed to
have returned to communion with the rest of man-
kind. By the 1st of September the vessels still re-
mained closely packed in the ice ; and nothing ap-
peared to the view from the mast-head, except the
boundless horizon of the frozen ocean. It was nev-
ertheless necessary for Captain Osbom to make a
bold puph of some description, to be released from hia
coiifii^^jment, for starvation itself might soon surprise
his associates in their imprisonment. In a day or
two a fortunate slackening of the ice encouraged
them to attempt on entering. So difficult and slow
was their progress, that they did not advance more
than the snips length during tL |>oriod, and after
the labors, of an hour. By dint of c )U'^<ant ficrewing
and heaving, however, some advance "^iS made.
Gradually the sea became more open ; and th m the
powers of the steam-engine were brought into play.
A moment's further delay might have secured their
detention for tjie whole winter, in those inhospitable
and frozen, climes. After a day of excessive exer-
tions, tlie ships had wormed their way through the
floating ice to the open sea which lay t^ the south of
it, and thus again were free.

On the 5th of September the squadron commenced
its unobstructed voyage of return to England. In
eight days they reached the latitude of Cape Farewell,
and at iensth safely aucliored at Grimby, in the
River Humuer, precisely three weeks after Uie com-
mencement of their homeward bound voyage. The
expedition had indeed failed either to rescue Sir Jobs

V 1

lis,'

M ]

'"■.

' L

^s--.

439

PBOOSESS OF ABOnO DISOOTXBT

Franklin, or even to soive the great mystery of hsi
fate ; nevertheless it had made " assurance doubly
Bure " that he had Yiot been lost in the regions which
they had visitoi, but that he must have proceeded
on his adventurous way to a very remote and une-
qnaled extreme of northern latitude. It ascertained
tliat, if he had perished at all, he had perished in the
execution of one of the bolde -t and most desperate
resolutions ever entertained by man, to explore if
possible, the utmost limits of the accessible earth;
and to arrive as near to the Korth Pole as it was pos-
sible for human heroism, endurance, and determina- •
tion to approach.

But other interesting and valuable researches were
made by this expedition, which deserve notice.
These established the fact that the Esquimaux tribes
which now inhabit portions of the Arctic Zone, were
once very numerous along the whole northern shore
of Barrow's Straits and Lancaster Sound, and that for-
merly the Esquimaux were among the most widely
diffused races on the earth, so far as superficial ex-
tent is concerned. From Melville Island on the west,
to the isolated inhabitants of Northern Greenland,
called Arctic Highlands, many strange and ancieLt
remains were discovered in various sheltered nooks
and corners on the shore, such as rude houses, cach^y
hunting posts, and graves, n-hich clearly proved that
inhabitants once dwelt in this sad and solitary clime,
who have now either become exterminated, or have
emigrated to some more genial region.

The origin of this people seems to have been in the
north-eastern extremity of Asia ; for on the banks of
the Lena and the Indigirka, and along the whole extent
of the frozen Tundray which faces the Polar Seas, as
well as in New Siberia, the same species of circular
stone huts, the same whalebone rafters, the same rude
axes made of stones, and the same primitive imple-
ments of the chase, ai'e still found to exist, and are
Ofled alike by the Esquimaux of Hudson Straits and

>U'->

LUUTJUAST OBBOKn'b EZPXDITKXV.

487

le
)f
it

re
d

Greenland, the Innuit of North America, and the
Tchuktchos of Behrinff's Straits. It is probable, there-
fore, that these people first reached the American
continent from the east of Asia. The Tchuktches are
the only tribe of Siberia who have maintained their
independence; and have defied, assisted by the hor-
rid riffors of nature, the overwhelming power of llus-
sia. The other tribes of Siberia narrate how one of
the races called by them the Omoki, whose homes
were as numerous on the banks of the Lena as
the stars of an Arctic night, did formally remove
to unknown regions; supposed by them to be in
a north-eastern direction. They also tell of an-
other tribe, termed the Oukillon, who, having been
attacked by the Tchuktches, took shelter in a dis-
tant land to the northward from Cape Jakan. This
land has now been found actually to exist in that
direction.

- These people eventually reached the shores of Da-
vis' Straits and the Atlantic Ocean ; and some of
them even advanced as far as Lancaster Sound, along
the Parry Group. Compelled bv the necessities c?
food, and attracted by the products of fishing and
hunting, they eventually reached Behring's Straits ;
and thus this unfortunate race extended over a vast
proportion of those inhospitable but habitable realms
which lie nearest to the role. Among the proofs of
this fact furnished by the researches of Captain Os-
born's expedition, may be mentioned the following :
Ruins of the description already mentioaed, were
found between Bathurst and Cornwallis Laud, on the
whole southern shore of Cornwallis Island, on Capes
Soencer and Riley, on Radstock Bay, Ommaney
Harbor, Cape Warrender, and on the shores of Jones'
Sound. Formerly, also, many Esquimaux lived even
at the head of Ba^'s B&y. On the coast northward
of Gape York, many deserted villages and dead
bodies have been found ; clearly indicating the ex-
istence of a people who have now either become ex

I 1

f^'A !

I '

I, x\ :*-

^IffHM

188

PBOOBESS or ABOnO DIBOOYEBT.

tinct, or hftve congregated In a Icbs rigorous locality.
All these tribes and races, whatever tliey may have
been, undoubtedly belonged to the general Esquimaux
family, who first originated iu the north-eastern ex<
tremity of Asia.

Arotio Skarohtno Expedition ; a Journal of a Boat-
voyage THKOCOH RurEKT's LaND AND THE ArOTIO

Sea, in Search of Sir John Frankun, by Sir John
Richardson, in 1851.

The commander of this expedition was directed bv
the British admiralty to leave England in a mail-
steamer for Halifax and New York ; and from the
latter place to proceed to Montreal, in order to confer
with Sir George Simpson, governor of the Hudson
Bay company's settlements. He was ordered thence
to travel oy Lake Huron to Saut Ste. Marie and Lake
Superior, and there embark with a small crew, and
sail along the chain of lakes until he overtook Mr.
Bell, whom it was supposed he would lind at Isle a
la Crosse.

With four boats well adapted to this service, Si?
John Richardson was orderca to proceed and exam-
ine the extensive i^orth American coast between the
Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers. Passing the
winter at Fort Good li ope, or Confidence, near Great
Bear Lake, he was dire cted in the following spring to
resume his journey, and explore the passages between
Wollaston, Banks , and Victoria Lands, so as to cross
the routes of Sir J. C. Ross' detached parties; and
thence to return again to Great Bear Lake. It was
hoped that this comparatively novel and untried di-
rection of search, might probably reveal some satis-
factory indications or memorials of the fate and situ-
ation of Sir John Franklin.

The length of this interior navigation to the Arctic
Sea from Montreal, is about 4,400 miles. Sixteen
hundred of these are performed on the Mackenzie

111

BIS JOHN BIOnABDSON 8 BXPEDITION.

489

Kiver and its tributaries. Tlio boats employed in this
expedition measured 30 feet in length, six in breadth,
three in depth ; and were i)rovided with masts, .sails,
•Mirs, anchors, and tools; and eacli weii^hod half a ton.
A crew of live men was deemed suthcient for each.
Among the seamen selected to man tl; > hci*8, wore
8a])por8, miners, carpenters, blacksmiths, rirmorors, and
enj'ineers. These fourboats proi)erly pr,)vi8ionod, were
embarked, together with the men of the expedition,
on board the " Piince of Wales " and "Westmin-
ster," bound to York Factory, one of the posts of the
Hudson Bay com[)any ; and there both ships eventu-
ally arrived, after a stormy j)a88a^e, with the boats
and their respective crews. In May, 1851, Sir John
Richardson and iiis cliief associate, Mr. Rao, loft the
house of Mr. liuUenden, at Saut Ste. Marie, near
Lake Superior, and entered on the active duties of
their expedition.

We will omit some details of their travels, as long
as these continue through those intermediate regions
which aro not directly connected with tho Arctic
Zone; and which throjv but little light upon the pe-
culiarities of that remote portion of tho earth. The
expedition pursued its cfesignated route, until at
length they entered tlio estuary of the Mackenzie
River. At four o'clock in tho morning they embarked,
and crossing a shallow bar at tho end of a sand-bank,
they steered between Ricliards' Island and the main
land. They soon perceived about 200 Esquimaux
coming toward them in their canoes, and three umiaks
tilled with women and children. It was necessary
to beat otf these intruders, who by hanging on to the
sides of tho boats impeded their progress ; nor were
the voyagers certain that no hostile attack was in-
tended by these half-starved and importunate eeuii-
savagos.

As soon as these two parties in the several boats
came in contact^ a buisy scene of barter began to be
enacted. The Esquimaux had arrows, bcws, kniyef

■M-i

440

pftooBEBs OF ARono DreooTDir.

of copper, or of bono, ftnd articles of that doBcription
to floll ; nnd for those tlioy received in return knives,
liles, luitcheta, nwls, and noodles The articlee oh-
taincd by tlie oxplororB were indeed of little service
to them ; but they wishod to concilijite the Esqui-
maux ; and inaaniuch as the latter cjonsidored a gill
without an equivalent accepted in return as an insult,
it was necessary to barter with them in order to fur-
nish them the articles wliich they desired. The En-
ijlish boats wore much incommoded by the crowds of
Esquimaux who were disposed to hold on to their
sides, and it became necessary to use violence some-
times to conqiel tiiom to roleaso their grasp. At
length the boat commanded by Llouteiumt Clark wae
attacked by the Esciuinuiux around it. An attempt
was made to plunder it. A struggle ensued between
the crew of six men and the assailants, and a musket
was tired by Lieutenant Chirk, as a signal to his as-
sociates for assistance. The other boats then imme-
diately wore around, and came to the protection of
the assailed. Muskets were presented, and an attack
threatened by the English sailors ; the effect of which
demonstration was, to induce tlie Esquimaux at once
to desist from all further aggressive operations, and
resume friendly relations,

Thus, as the boats }>ur8ued tht t way, they were ac«
companied by the Escpiimaux canoes. At length as
they began to lose sight of tiie laud entirely, me Es-
quimaux gradually fell behind them, and returned to
tlieir encampment on the shore of the estuary. Dur-
ing this intercourse between the voyagers and the na-
tives, the inquiries of the formea* were directed to ob-
taining information in reference to the discovery
ships. But the p.atives uniformly persisted in de-
claring, that they knew nothing about any white peo-
ple, or any ships on their coast. They all denied hav-
ing been present in any interviews which took p\ace
between their countrymen and the navigators of those
seas in previous years. One person alone, in answet

BIB JOHN biobabdson'b EZPIEDimnr.

441

le-
|o-

to tJio inqnirios of Captain Richardson, doclarol that
a ])ftrty of wlnto mon wore livinj;^' on a neighboring
inland, callod Iii(;har<l8' IhImikI. Hut an tho expedi-
tion had viHitod and oxainiried that locality but a day
two proviouHly, his aHRortioii waw known to bo false,
Captain Kichardson r(!([ueHfod his intorprotcr to in-
form tho EHfiuimaux tliut ho had rocontly been there,
atid know that ho was lviii|j;; which declaration only
callod forth a hearty laugh from tho Estpiimaux,
whoso only doflire was, by a fabricated story, to in
(luce tho expedition to sojourn longer in tho neigh-
borhood, and waste its time in fruitless researches.

These Esquinuiux are a singular race, and one of
their distinctive peculiarities is, that they are strictly
a littoral people. They live only on the shore, and
they iuhaoit an area of nearly 5,000 miles of sea-
board. Their habitations extend from tho Straits of
BoUo-isle to tho Peninsula of Alaska. Throughout this
vast extent of region there is no material variation in
their dialect, except what may be justly termed pro-
vincialisms. An interpreter born on the east main or
western shore of James' Bay, experienced no diffi-
culty in understanding the language of the Esqui-
maux of the estuary ot the Mackenzie ; although the
distance between the two localities was at least 2,600
miles. Traces of the encampments of this same race
have been discovered as far north on the American
continent as the foot of tho boldest adventurer has
trodden. Their capacity to endure the privations of
these frozen and rugged regions, results evideotlT
from their disposition to subsist on blubber, and their
long practiced ability to inhabit houses and huts con-
structed of ice and snow. They employ drift-timbei
whenever it is accessible ; but they can do without it,
and can Und a good substitute in the fabrication of
their weapons, hedges, and boat-frames, in the teeth
and bones of whales, morses, and other sea-monsters.
They associate together in large numbers, to engage
in the pursuit of the whale ; and this tact indicates

fit.

449

PBOOBEBB OF ABGTIO DIBOOTXBT.

If.Vf

the poBsession of no small degree of natural hardi-
hooa and intelligence. Those of the Esquimaux who
have been received into the service of the Hudson
Bay company, at the distant fur-posts, have very soon
acquired the habits of their white associates, and
proved eventually to be more industrious, intelligent,
and trustworthy than domesticated Indians. Among
themselves a great deal of honesty prevails ; and the
private hunting-grounds of the different families are
secure from all depredations from other members of
the nation. But their dexterity and pertinacity in
thieving the property of strangers are very remarka-
ble. Iney are brave in their conflicts, and are devoid
of the pusillanimity of the Indians of the southern
zones. All their peculiarities, both personal and na>
tional, serve to establish the position advanced in the
preceding article of this work, that the various Es-
quimaux tribes possess one and the same origin, and
tnat they emanated originally from the north-eastern
extremity of the continent of Asia.

As soon as the Esquimaux canoes had disappeared
from view, the boats were steered toward the opposite
fihore, at a spot where there were several winter hab-
itations of the natives. This place is situated about
eight miles to the eastward of Point Warren, The
buildings are placed on a spot where the water is
suiiiciently deep for a boat to come close to the beach ;
so that the natives mav be able to tow a whale or
seal to the place where they intend to cut it up. The
houses themselves were constructed of drift-timber,
strongly built together, and covered with a layer of
earth from one to two feet in thickness. Light and
air are admitted through a small low door at one ex-
tremity ; and even this aperture in winter is closed
by a slab of ice. In that case their greasy lamps sup-
ply them to some extent with heat, as well as with
light. These huts are large enough to permit ten or
twelve people to seat themselves around the fire}
built in the center on the ground. In winter the im*

SB JOHN BIOHABD0ON B EXPEDITION.

448

perfect admission of fresh air, and the efflnvia ari-
sing from their greasy and filthy bodies, render Iheif
abodes not only disagreeable in the extreme, but also
exceedingly unwholesome. Yet these peculiarities
characterize the whole Esquimaux tribes throughout
the whole extent and variety of their diffusion.

Having resumed their route on the 4th of August,
Captain liichardson pulled for three hours across
Copland Ilutchinsou Inlet, and landed at length on its
eastern shore. Tliis inlet is about 10 miles in width,
and its mouth is obstructed by sand banks. Having
computed their position, they found it to be 6D° 44:'
north latitude ; and the variation of the needle was
68° east. This whole coast is low, tliough in the in-
land, some sandy cliffs were discovered. The soil
was soft, boggy, and ti'eacherous, and the whole
country was covered over with ponds and small lakes.
On the 8th of August the expedition reached
Cape Brown. Here tliey came in contact again with
the Esquimaux. Alter the usual exchange of articles
had been completed, inquiries were made in refer-
ence to the missing ships. The Esquimaux declared
that no large ships had ever visited that coast ; and
that these were the only white men whom they had
ever seen. It seems that Captain liichardson had
visited this coast twenty- three years before on a com-
mercial expedition ; and had then met some of these
same people. But they denied having the least
knowledge or recollection of him or of iiis associates.
Captain liichardson crossed liussel luiet, and
passed Cape Brown. They then reached Cape Dab
housie and pitched their tent upon the beach. This
island and the cape are Hat ; but toward the sea there
ai'e steep cliffs 4^^ and 50 feet in height. There are also
deep ravines in the interior, produced by the melting
of the snows in the beginning of summer. From
this point the boats steered across Liverpool Bay,
and approached Nicholson Island. They tiien landed
and encamped off Cape Maitland. The surface of

444

raooBEss or Ascno DXBOomT.

■ 11

this cape is level, but its shores are girt with rugged
clifFs oO feet in height. A frozen surface is con-
stantly exposed to view, and permanent ground-ice is
everywhere to be found, twenty inches ooneath the
surface of the soil. Vegetation is very meager and
scanty.

From this point the expedition proceeded to Ilar-
rowby Bay, and Baillie's Islands. They landed at
the latter place at evening, and pitched their tent to
pass the ni^ht in repose. They soon discovered a
large fleet ot Esquimaux canoes approaching in the
form of a crescent, in the dim twilight. The object
of the natives was to trade ; but as Captain Richard-
son wished his men to have an opportunity to repose
during the night, he ordered a ball to be fired across
the path of the canoes. This immediately stopped
their further progress ; and an interpreter then in
formed the Esquimaux that there would be no barter-
ing that night, but that if they would return in the
morning their wishes should be gratified. After a
short consultation the Esquimaux seemed to be satis-
tied with this arrangement and retired. At two
o'clock the next moruing the expedition resumed
their journey, and soon met the approaching Esqui-
maux. From them they ascertained that their sum-
mer season here continues only during two months,
of which this (August) was one ; that during this pe-
riod they have no ice whatever ; and that they car-
ried on their black-whale fishing. The extent ol their
operations usually consists in the capture of two
whales during the whole summer — sometimes, though
rarely, they obtain three. Sometimes they are alto-
gether unsuccessful and secure none. In that caae the
succeeding winter generally proves to be one of great
want and hardship). Their ignorance of the rest of the
world may be interred from the following incident :
One of them asserted to Captain Richardson that
Cape Bathurst was an island. When the latter denied
this assertion, the Esquimaux responded with great

KB JOBS HI0HABIW01f*B BZPKDTnOH.

445

sincoritv, "Arc not all lands islands?" At this
point Captain Kicliardson buried some pommican
and erected a 8i«nial-pOot. A hole was dug on
the top of the clin, in which a case of pommican
was deposited, with a meinoranduin explaining the
purposes of the expedition. The utmost care was
usea in replacing the turf so as to avoid detection ;
some drift timber was then placed on the spot and
burned ; and a pole painted red and white was planted
at a distance of 10 feet. To induce the Esquimaux
not to disturb the post, some articles of value were
suspended upon it. Soon several Esquimaux were
seen running toward the polo ; they quickly strii^ped
it of its hangings; but did not disturb the signal
itself.

From this point the expedition proceeded to the
south-cast of Cape Bathurst, along the shore, which
sometimes rose to the height of 250 feet. At Point
Trail, in north latitude 70° 11)', the bituminous shale
had been ignited and burned ; and the bank hed
crumbled down from the destruction of the beds, pre-
senting a most singular appearance.

August the 11 tn the expedition continued their
route along the coast, and at length reached Point
Stivens, and on the 13th landed on the shores of Sell-
wood Bay. Their next sojourn was on one of the
western points which terminate Capo Parry. This
portion of the cape presents a singular aspect when
jipproachin^ it from the sea. It is an eminence 500
feet in height, which far surmounts all the surround* .
ing region. In the neighborhood ot this spot, at
Cocked-Ilat Point, a letter was deposited with a case
of pommican; over which were placed fragments of
limestones, covered with red paint. It was hero that
tke members of this expedition first saw the drift-
ice. They sailed on past Clapperton Island, Point
Pearce, and Point Keats. The tirst indications of the
approach of winter now began to force themselvea
upon their notice : for the sea beciuue covered with
8

1,1 1

rBOOBESS OF ABOnO DIBOOTEKl.

tih\n ice, which sometimes very essentially impeded
their progress. At Cape Parry they still saw traces
of the Esquimaux ; they had the first severe frost
during the night ; and the ice already exceeded an
inch in thickness.

On the 12th of Septemher the expedition nearly
reached Cape Kendall. It had progressed thus far
along the north-western coast of the North American
contment, without meeting any traces of Sir John
Franklin. At this joint the sea became so obstructed
with ice that it was impossible to pursue the jour-
ney along the sea-shore, although they were still tit
some considerable distance from the Coppermine
River, the appointed boundary of their travels. Cap-
tain Richardson, determined to continue the journey
by land. The company provided themselves with
thirteen day's provisions of pemmican, with cooking
utensils, bedding, snow-shoes, > astronomical instru-
ments, fowling-pieces, ammunition, and portable boat,
nets, and lines. Each man was compelled to carry a
load of sixty-iive pounds. The boats of the expedi-
tion were left beliind on the shore, and the tent with
a few cooking articles and hatchets, were abandoned
to the Esquimaux.

On the 3d of September at six o'clock in the morn-
ing tlie journey commenced. They pureued a direct
course toward the bottom of Jiack's Inlet. The snow
was deep, and advance was laborious and difficult.
So heavy was the way that most of the men were will-
ing to leave behind them their carbines. At night
they halted under a basalt cliff 200 feet in height.
The sea was. here full of ice. They still occasionally
met Esquimaux, whoso services they employed in fer-
rying them over the numerous inlets which interrupt-
ed their way along the coast. Amoug the Esquimaux
whom Captain Richardson met, were two who are
meutionca by Mr. Simpson. One of these was res-
ogui;Kcd by a large wen which marked his forehead ;
and the other by his being crippled, and uiing crutches.

JOflZr KIQflABTSON^B EZIBDRXOK.

laux
are
rec-
ad;
lea

They had been very kindly treated bj Messrs. Dease
and Simpson ; and thoy were therefore disposed to
be frienaly, together with their whole tribe, toward
the white people. The travelers bought skin-boo/ta
from them, which proved of very groat sorvioo.
Captain Richardi^on permitted none of his men to
enter their huts, or to offer any indignity to these
harmless and forlorn beings. lie himself visited one
of their cabins, both for the pui'poso of obtaining a
glimpse of their household appearance, and to pre-
sent some needles and other articles to their women.
He found in one hut six or seven females sewing,
seated in a circle. They were nearly nuked, and ver^
dirty. On his entrance they seemed both ashamed
and afraid. Captain Richardson shrewdly conjec-
tured that, as these people had heard of the approach
of the strangers, they had purposely rendered them-
selves as repulsive as possible, by rubbing mud and
ashes on their faces and persons. They received his

fjreseuts in a friendly maniibi ; but seemed quite re-
ieved when the hardy old mariner took his leave.
This is a singular circumstance, as illustrating how, in
every clime and country under heaven, men's pas-
sions, their fears, and their t.rtilices are uniformly
and invariably the same I

At length the travelers aii'ivcd on the shores of
Richardson's River. This river was discovered in
1822, by some hunters of Sir John Franklin's party,
and its outlet was then erroneously supposed to be
only live miles west of the Coppermine. In 1839
Mr. Simpson expl >red this river, and ascertained tluit
it falls into Back's Inlet in north latitude GT° 53' 67".
Having crossed this river iu a small boat of Lieuten-
ant Halkett, which" could carry but two persons at
once, thoy resumed their march. In a short time
they gained the summit of the ridge which divided
the valley of the Richardson from that of the Copper-
mine River. This ridge was now covered with snow,
From its summit they saw iu the distance the Cop-

1"^!

:iv

f-- Ml

It48

ntooBBM or memo DnoofisT,

Pennine ; and at three o'clock in tho aflernoon tbej
reached its banks, several miles above Bloody Fall-
On the 10th of September the company struck the
Kendal River, at some distance from its i unction
with the Coppermine. They walked nearly three
miles along its bunks, seeking for a crossing place.
No such spot beinff found, they were compelled to
construct a raft, and thus transport themselves over.
This raft could boar but three persons at a time ; nev-
ertheless all of them passed over in safety. From
this point they travolea directly across the country to-
ward Dease lliver. Somesnow tell both during the day,
and also during tlie succeeding night. On the 12th
they reached a tributary streiim of the Kendal River,
ana forded it ; the ice-cold water rising up to their
vvaists. On the 14th the march took a soutii-western
direction. They found the soil cracked, hummocky,
and swampy ; and it became exceedingly wearisome
and difficult for pedestrians. On the 15th they
crossed a branch of the River Dease by fording it ;
and at four o'clock in the afternoon the whole party
reached Fort Coulidence, the present appoiutea ter-
mination of their journey, and their quarters for the
ensuing winter.

It is proper that we should here interrupt the nar-
rative of Captain Richardson's expedition in search
of Sir John Franklin, by detailing some of the infor-
mation which he obtained in reference to the Esqui-
maux race — one of the most interesting and impor-
tant items of Arctic observation and scrutiny. We
have ah'eady given a few details on this subject on a
previous page ; and tho additional light thrown upon
it by the researches of Captain Richardson, are both
valuable and entertaiuiug. The views presented by
Captain R. of this widely diii'used people, are, as will
be seen, those which describe them as they exist on
the northern coast of the American continent — being
quite a different locality trow that depicted by Cap-
tain Oftbora

im*mm^MlM t * miv

■IB JOHN ESOHARDSON'S EXnEDITIOW.

449

on
H

The term Esqnimanx is probably deriyed from the
words, Ceux qui rrda/ux / or it may have originated
from theehoutB of Teymd vhich the natives uttered,
when they surrounded the first exploring ships in their
canoes. The sailors of the Hudson Bav company's
vessels still call them Seymda. The word Eisquimaux
does not belong to the language of the nation. These
invariably call themselves Invrit^ the people^ from
I-nuhy a mom.

One peculiarity of this race is that they alone, of
all the aboriginal races, are known to inhabit portions
of both the old and the new continents. Their lan-
guage and their customs, in consequence of the pe-
culiarity of their position, have also remained strange-
ly unaltered by any contact or collision with the rest
of the world. They confine themselves to the shores ;
and neither wander inla,ad, nor cross extensive seas.
They extend along the whole northern boundary of-
America, from Beliring's Straits to the Straits of l3ell-
isle, and along both sliores of Greenland and Lab-
rador. Their appearance is singular. Their faces
are egg-shaped, with considerable prominence in the
cheek bones. Their foreheads are narrow and taper
upwards. Their chins are conical but not acute.
Generally their noses are broad and depressed. Their
profiles, in consequence of the receding both of the
forehead and the chin, present a more curved outline
than is found in any other variety of the Caucasian
race. Their complexions are not red, but of an iuter-
mediate hue between red and white. They have lit-
tle or no beards ; but the hair of the head is long,
BtraiKht, thick, and coarse. The men are of medium
size, oroad-shouldered, and muscular. In both sexes
the hands and feet are small uud well formed. The
teeth, especially of the young girls, are generally of
superior regularity and beauty.

The chief subsistence of this extensive race depends
apou hunting and fishing. In the spring the opening
nvers give tuem the opportunity to spear luid capturt

/•

450

PBOOKISS OT ABOnO DISOOTEBT.

hw 1

the fish which at that period ascend the streams to
spawn. Then also they hunt the reindeer, which
bring forth their young on the coasts and islands he-
fore the snow is entirely melted on the ground.
Tliey also take a large quantity of swans, geese, and
duCKS. The months of July and August are em-
ployed in the capture of whales ; and when they are
successful in this, their own sustenance for the ensu-
ing year is secured. During the two summer months
they live in tents made of sldn^,and then they provide
their stores of food for winter use. Atsmid- winter they
are usually in. total darkness. At that period they
live in houses framed of drift timber, which are
thickly covered with earth. They have no windows
in their dwellings, and they enter by a low trap door
inserted either on the side, or in the roofs. The floor
is covered with rude timber, and they have no fire-
place. A large flat stone is placed in the center which
supports a lamp, by the flame of which they often cook.
The Esquimaux hunter can trap the seal, notwith
standing the great acuteness and vigilance of that an
imal ; and his plunder also serves to assist in sustain-
ing Esquimaux life in the spring months.

The summer architecture of this race is peculiar.
By that period of the vear, the snow has acquired a
sufficient degree of coherence to form a light build-
ing material ; and of this material the Esquimaux
erect comfortable huts which are dome-shaped, and
are often used in preference to their tents. Ihey first
ti'ace a circle on the smooth surface of the snow.
The sides are built of slabs of ice instead of brick Oi
granite. The summit is composed of similar slabs
and the floor is laid with the same material Eacl
slab in the building is carefully fitted to its place,
where it becomes congealed and frozen into the solid
mass. All the crevices are plugged up, and the
seams carefuUv closed, by throwing loos© snow over
the fabric. The walls are only three or four inches
in thickness, and therefore nearly translucent ; so

KB JOHZr BIOHASDBON'S EXFEDITIOV.

Chat they admit an agi'eoable light to the interior
from without. All the furniture, consisting of seats,
tables, and sleeping places, are formed of snow, and
are covered with rein-deer or seal skins, which ren-
der them quite comfortable. Often these houses
are built contiguous to each other, with low galleries
running between them. These houses are durable,
and the sun rarely acquires sufficient strength in that
clime either to thaw or to destroy them.

The Esquimaux who live on the estuary of the
Mackenzie river, carry on a traffic with the western
Esquimaux from the region of Point Barrow and
Behring*8 Straits, whom they meet half-way between
their respective homes on the coast. The central
Esquimaux have but little traffic with the Europeans,
and articles of Russian manufacture are never or
rarely seen further east than Point Atkinson. Those
wlio live between Behring's Straits and the Mac-
kenzie pierce the lower lip near the angle of the
mouth, and till the aperture with labrets resembling
buttons, sometimes made of blue quartz, and some-
times of ivory. Many of them transfix the septum
of the nose with an ivory needle. The women are
generally tattooed on the chin ; and turnup and plait
their hair carefully, and are not devoid of pride in
their personal appearance. From this circumstance
northern navigators justly infer that more deference
is paid to them by the men, than usually prevails
among semi-barbarous tribes. It is said by Captain
Richardson, that the unmarried women among the
Esquimaux are modest and decorous in their deport-
ment; but that the married ones allow themselves
very considerable liberties, and that, too, with the con-
nivance of their husbands. Yet this reserve, even
among the unmarried Esquimaux women, does not
exist among the tribes located on the northern coast
of Greenland. There both young and old indicated
their vicious laxity to the navigators by signs and
gestures of the most indelicate and unequivocal na

.. I

5 k^

I**' » ' t I

lii^i I

ilu'

453

FKOGBESS OF ABailO DISOOYEBT.

tare, and more than once, wives have been known to
be offered to the strangers by their husbands them-
selves, plainly and without disguise, while the wo-
man herself stood by, and freely acquiesced in her
proposed prostitution.

The Esquimaux like most barbarians are excellent
mimics. They possess the power of imitating the

festures and voices of others with great ability,
hey also display extraordinary powers of grimace
and coutortiou, and could exhibit themselves in the
most singular positions and attitudes. The dress of
both sexes is very nearly alike, and consists of a coat
with a pointed skirt both before and behind ; pantaloons
or leggings which extend to the waist ; and long
boots made of seal skin, and water tight, resembling
moccasins. They have acquired considerable skill
in the preparation of whale, seal, and deer skins.
These they use for various purposes, some as thongs
and lines in the capture of sea-beasts, some as bar-
ness for thei? dog-sledges, and some as soles for their
moccasins, which are thus rendered water-proof.
They have also invented a light water-proof outer
dress, formed from the intestines of the wliale, which
they secure around the top of their small canoes,
and which protects them fi'om the waves of the sea.
They acquire extraordinary skill in the management
of their canoes or kaiyaks, and possesi the hardihood
of fearless seamen. Their dogs and reindeer consti-
tute their chief wealth, and are in fact quite indispen-
sable to their existence and comfort.

The religion of the great Esquimaux race is a sin-
gular subject of inquiry, and yet one which furnishes
only the most unsatisfactory results. Their religious
conceptions are simple and crude in the extreme.
There is but little to know of them on this point ; and
that little is not to their credit. The most prominent
idea in their religion is the belief in witchcraft, and
in the agency of evil spirits. They worship demons
much more devoutly than they worship God. Cer

hb johh biohabdbon*8 expedition.

458

tain individuals among them profess to possess a
great influence over evil spirits. They believe that
persons are killed by sorcery ; that they are and may
become the messengers and servants of the devil ;
that sorcerers may clian^a the appearance of indi-
viduals who are under their spell ; and accordingly,
sorcerers are themselves a powerful class among
them.

Yet the Esquimaux have often become willing and
docile converts to the christian faith, as taught them
by the Moravian missionaries in Labrador and Green-
land. They have readily acquired the art of reading
and writing, and displayed no inconsiderable apti-
tude for the acquisition of knowledge. The language
of the Esquimaux is admitted by the most learned
philologists to be similar in its structure to the rest
of the North American tongues. There seems to be
a singular inconsistency between the comprehensivo*
ness and artificial structure of the language, and its
resemblance to that of neighboring Indian tribes, and
the isolation of the people themselves. Their lan-
guage does not materially vary along the whole im-
mense extent of country over which their race is
diflused ; thus furnishing another evidence of the
identity and unity of this primitive and singular
people.

1 et the Esquimaux are divided into several tribes
according to their different locations. Tliose on the
southern portion of King William's JSound, are called
the 2'chugatschih } and they are located between
Behring's Straits and Bristol Bay. Further to the
north the Kuskatchewak reside between the island
Nuniwak and Cape Newenham. These are neither
nomadic nor given to the chase ; but dwell in per-
manent villages, and have a strong attachment to
their ancestral homes. In each of these villages there
is a public building termed the Kashim^ where coun-
cils and festivals a^^e held. It has raised platforms
ground the wall? with a place in the center for tht

m,y\ I

404

PBOOBESS OF ABOnO DISCOYEBT.

fire, and an aperture in the roof for the escape of the
smoke and the admission of light.

The Tchukche tribe who inhabit the shores of the
Gulf of Anadyn, seem once to have had possession of
the coast of Asia, as far westward as the one hundred
and sixtieth parallel. They are divided in the Sed.
entary, and the Reindeer Tchukche. These are both
strong and powerful races, and very much resemble
in their appearance the North American Indians.
The encroachments of the Russians and Cossacks
have driven them back beyond the Kolyma, into the
north-eastern corner of Asia ; but there they have re-
mained free and unsubdued by their more powerful
assailants. This tribe has domesticated both the dog
and the reindeer, of which they possess numerous
herds. They are skillful traders in furs and walrus'
teeth, which they exchange for tobacco, articles of
iron, hardware, and trinkets. They frequently travel
on their sledges drawn by reindeer, accompanied by
their women and children, their arms, tents, and
household goods. Their yearly journeys continue for
six months, for they make circuitous routes in pursuit
of pasture and traae. Previous to the establishment
of the Russian Fur company, these people yearly
traveled for these purposes over an extent of seven-
teen hundred miles of North American coast.

Another tribe of the Esquimaux are called the
K^utchins, who live westward between the Macken-
ne and Behring's Sea. The males possess the aver-
se height of Europeans, are well formed, with reg-
ular features, high foreheads, and light complexions.
Che women resemble the men ; and Captain Richard-
»on speaks of the wife of one of the chiefs as being
80 handsome, that in any country she would bo con-
sidered a fine looking woman. The women have
\heir chins tattooed, and the men paint their faces
^oth red and black. Their arms consist of a bow and
Arrow, a dagger, knife, and spear. Fire-arms have
iatdly been mtrodaced among them, and are very

•IB JOHN RIOHABDSON'8 EZFEDmOV.

455

mncli prized. Where a man has not been able to ob-
tain a gnn, ho always carries with him a supply of
powder and shot, and for these ho obtains a Bliare of
the game killed by the possessors of a gnn or rifle.
This singular expedient exists very extensively among
the E8(piimanx tribes.

Tlie chief mjjn among the Kntchins practice polyg^
amy, and have two or three wives, and some even
tive. Very poor men who cannot support a wife re
main single. But it is said that a ffood wrestlei,
whether poor or rich, can always obtain a wife. In
winter the women perform all the drudgery about
the house. Tiiey collect the firewood, assist the dogs
in hauling the sledges, and bring snow to melt for
water. They do everything, in fact, except cooking,
and that is attended to by the men alone. The wo-
men carry their infants, like the rest of the Esqui-
maux, on their backs in seats made from birch bark,
with the sides and back resembling those of an arm-
chair. They even bandage the feet of their children
to prevent them from erowing, inasmuch as small
feet are considered handsome. This custom resem-
bles that of the Chinese, except that it is not confined
to the females. The Kutchins are a lively and cheer-
ful people. Dancing and singing are their chief
amusements ; wrestling and all kinds of athletic di-
versions are in fashion among them. Their religion
also consists chiefly in the belief in sorcery and evil
spirits, whom they endeavor to propitiate through
their shamans, who profess to be able to communicate
with the unseen world, and to possess the power of
prophesying future events. When any one of their
tribe dies suddenly, or unexpectedly, the event is al-
ways attributed to sorcery ; and some evil spell is
charged against either a member of their own tribe or
of some neigboring one. Then blood-money is imme-
diately demanded, and if it be refused, they do not
rest until an opportunity is found to avenge the sup-
posed murder by a )me retributive deed of violence

459

PB00RBB8 OT ABOHO DISOOTERT.

! 'i

and death. An inatanco iB narrated in wliich blood
money was demanded and received for Boveral years,
for the supposed death of a relative who was after-
ward discovered to be still alive. When demand was
again made the ensuing year for the usual payment,
three of the party makmg it were slain in expiation
of their falsehood and extortion.

These Kutchins are treacherous and warlike ; and
generally engaged in hostilities with the surrounding
tribes. One half of the population of the Yukon
has thus been destroyed during the last twenty-live
tears. They pass the summer months chiefly in dry-
ing the white-iish for winter use. Their wealth con-
sists partly in beads ; and to become a chief among
the Kutchins, a man must have beads equal in value
to the amount of two hundred beavers. In summer
when they are traveling they rarely ' "cct their tents.
In winter their encampments are Uhiially placed in
groves of fir trees, where they either live in huts or
in their winter tents constructed of skins with the hair
unremoved.

The process of courtship among these people is
very simple indeed. The lover goes early in the
morning to the abode of the object of his passion,
and without saying anything, begins to bring in wa-
ter ; to heat the stones which are used to create steam
for their bath; and to prepare food. The inmates
then ask him who he is, and why he does this. He
states that he wishes to obtain the daughter of the
man who dwells there as his wife. If he is not re-
fused, he remains as a servant in the family for a
year, and at the termination of that probationary pe-
riod he receives both a reward for his services and his
bride into the bargain. No ceremony of marriage
takes place between them. When a man dies, he is
mourned by his whole clan. Slavery exists among
them to some extent ; and those who are in bondage,
are prisoners taken captive in war, who are often sold
and re-flold by different owners, unless the/ are re

IXB JOHN RICUABDSOm's BXrEDITIOir.

457

deemed by their own relatives. These slayes hav«
been known to bo Bomotiines sacrificed as victims to
tlio shades of their departed warriors and lieroes.
Tliey also possess the art of manufacturing various
articles of iron ware ; an accomplishment which they
probably derived at an early period, from their inter-
course with Russian traders.

The winter having at length passed away, the trav-
elers who composed Sir Jolin liichardson's company
at Fort Confidence, prepared in the ensuing spring to
resume their operations. It vet remained their duty to
reach Wollaston and Victoria Lands, and thus to com-
plete the search in that direction. In consequence of
the forced desertion and loss of the boats of the expe-
dition as previously narrated, it would have beem im-
practicable for the whole party to accompany those
who performed this journey ; nor was tuis in fact
necessary ; and Mr. Rae, the younger and more ro-
bust associate of Captain liichardson, was selected to
pc form the service which yet remained. The ability
ciud zeal of this gentleman well fitted him for the
task. He had already explored the country betweea
Fort Confidence and the Coppermine River during
the winter months, for the purpose of ascertaining
the best route to be followed in the spring.

Accordingly, in April Mr. Rae, taking charge of
the only boat which the expedition stili possessed,
conveyed provisions, boat-stores, and various other
necessaries on dog-sledges, across toward the Kendall
River, and posted two men at Flett's Station, together
with two Indians, to protect them. Six men composed
the crew of the boat under the command of Mr. Rae.
Two men were left in charge of Fort Confidence.

Mr. Rae having waited tor the breaking up of the
ice on the Dease River, hauled kis boat thither, on
wh;.ch he embarked on the 8th of June. His ascent
of the stream was slow, in consequence of the large
masses of ice, some of them miles in length, which
impeded his progress. They ascended the soatb-eas^

A68

P1IOOBB88 or ARCmO DISOOVRBT.

! i

■> ' ,

h4 >

rill

em branch of tlmt Htroam. On fho 17th (hey pnwcd
over the Inko from which tho rivor flows, on tho ico.
It contains Bonio ishiiids nnd is four nn*lo8 in width.
From this hike thoy tmvol(Ml ovorland for wix iin'lc8
nearly duo oast, and on tho 21 at tlioy reached tho Ken-
dall tvivor, to which tlio provisioiifl had boon previ-
ously convoyed in April. Thoy tlion descended the
Kendall to tho Cojipcnninc llivor.

At this place t]\oy were dotainod by tho ico, which
was still unbroken, c'lnringj five dnya. Thoy then sailed
down the Coppermino to tlio sea ; and found a nar-
row channel alonnj tho shore of llichardson Bay,
where the ice still lay airainat the rocks. Thoy pro-
coododon and rounded i\>int Mackenzie, and entered
Back's Inlet, which was tlicn but partially opened.
Thoy soon reached the head of the liilet, and at once
sailed up Kao River, wliich Cai)tiiin Richardson had
discovered the preceding autumn.

For the purpose of examining the country, Mr. Rae
followed the river for twenty goograplu'cal miles in-
land. It is very etraiglit in its direction, and flows
over a bed of limestone. Its banks are extremely
rugged, and sometimes presented j)recii)ice3 200 feet
in lieight. The party then returned to the mouth of
the river. Their position now was (»7° 55' 20" north
latitude. They reached Cape Kendall, where they
experienced a licavy thunder-storm, which compelled
them to laud. On the 27th thoy continued their
course to Capo Ilearne. Basil Hall Bay they found
filled with unbroken ice from one side to the other.
The next day a crack occurred in the ice large enough
to permit the boat to reach an island in the midale
of the bay. On tho north side of tliis island thev
found some open water which enabled them to ad-
vance two miles further. On the 30th they reached
Cape Krusenstern.

This was the most suitable spot from which to de^
tert the shore, and commence tho traverse or direct
route to WoUastOD Land, passing near to Donglasi

UB JOHN BIOHAJBDSOM 8 EXrEDTROW.

409

in-

leir
iiid
ler.

t
2

led
le-

IS8

Island. Tins circumstanco was moro fortnnato, ai
the coiidition of the ico along tlio shore rendered
rholr further advance in tliat direction impossible.
Tiio party (HHCTnl)ark(Ml licro and pitched their tents
on tJio top of the clilfrt, and waited for a more favor
able state of the ico ; wImcIi lia<l already commenced
to break np. IIito thoy were viaited by some Esqni-
inanx, wii(» inforniod them that they had seen several
natives of Wolhiston Land during the preceding win-
ter, and liad l)eon informed by them that no European
siiipa, boats, or Heamcn ha<l over visited their coun-
try. Tlie situation of the party here was ascertained
to bo OS** 2t' 35" north latitude.

The ico in the bay was not suflicicntly cleared to
permit Mr. llae to proceed until the 19th of August.
Until this period tliero had been a closely packed
stream of ice Htretching along tlie entire snore, and
grinding against the rocjks as it was driven upon
them by the wind. Having pulled seven miles from
land and being yet three miles distp.nt from Douglass
Island, they wore n)et by a stream of ice so closely
packed and so rough, thai i; was ijapoasiblo either
to pass over it or through it. This compelled the
company to return to their former position on the
shore. During several succeeding (lays tliey poled
their way along the beach, and thus advanced a few
miles to the southward. On the evening of the 22d
Mr. Rae ascended a hill near the shore, and there bo»
held with a spy -glass nothing in the direction of Wol-
laston Land but the white ict forced upward by the
wind into irregular heaps; ivhiie to the east and
south-east there was a large s,^ace of open water, be-
tween which and the ice-boiud shore, a vast stream
of ice some miles in length wsu driving rapid!/ toward
Cape Hearne.

There was now no prospect ihat the sea would open
BO as to permit the frail crat\ x which Mr. Rao and
his men were embarked to Vsinture across the main
to WoUastou Laud. Wintei was then veiy near;

lp;.i' i

{j ' ; i.-

;

■i ■;

!;r'

l';l ■

I1f

■':^

ft;

teo

ntooEEas OF ABrno disooybkt.

and Mr. Hae was reluctantly compelled to give the
order to return to the Coppermine River. In ascend-
ing this rivbr to the Bloody Foil, the company met the
misfortune of losing Albert, their Esquimaux inter
preter, and one of the most useful members of the
expedition. He was drowned in attempting to extri-
cate the boat from a dangerous eddy into which it
had been drawn. The boat was lost with him. They
then commenced their journey on foot across the land
toward Great Bear Lake, each man carrying a weight
of about eighty pounds. After seven days' march
from the Bloody Fall the party reached Fort Confi-
dence, whence the expedition had started. They had
failed to discover any traces of Sir John Franklin,
and had not even reached WoUaston I and, the pro-
posed terminus of their journey, in consequence of
the strait being filled with impassable ice.

Meanwhile Captain E-ichardson and the rest of the
men belonging to the exped tlon, explored Bear Lake
and Cape McDonald". They then reached Fort Frank-
lin. The only vestige of the latter which remained,
was the foundation of the chimney stack. The»ce
they proceeded to Fort Norman. They then em-
barked on Bear Lake River and descended with the
currant to its mouth. Retracing the route which
they had pursued in their outward journey during
thy preceding year, the company eventually readied
Methy Lake; where Captam Richardson received
his first letters from England, which had been brought
up from Canada by the governor's canoe, which annu-
ally leaves La Chine in May. He arrived at Norway
House on the 13th of August, and there the men.
composing the expedition were discharged. The Eu-
ropeans among them were sent down to York factory
to sail to England in one of the ships of the Hudson
Bay company.

Captain liichardson himself returned by way of
Boston to Liverpool ; and thus ended thia additional
attempt to discoYer St John Franklin's late, without

3AFTAIN JC^SNETtYS YOTAOB.

461

having obtained the slightest clue of them ; although
the plan of search pursued possessed some novel an 1
very considerable advantages in its favor.

The Second Voyage of the Prince Albebt in Seabcb
OF Sm John Fkanklin, undeb the command of Wil-
liam Kennedy, in 1853.

Thm expedition "was fitted out for the soccad time
by the liberality of Lady Fr- nklin. The vessel was
B'nall, but had proved herself, on a former voyage
to the Polar seas, well adapted to the service.* That
voj age resulted in discovering tnices of the the miss-
ing ships at tlie entrance of AYcllington Channel ;
and on its relurn Lady Franklin instantly resolved to
equip the present undertaking, with hopes of more
complete success ; and Captain Kennedy was invited
by her to take the command.

In May, 1851, the Prince Albert lay in the harbor
of Aberdeen ready for sea. Along the sides frcm
the keel to about two feet above the water-lme, there
had been placed a doubling of planking two and a
lialf inches thick. The bows and stern-posts were

sheathed in

wrought

iron, a quarter of an inch in

thickness. Her hold had been strengthened with a
perfect labyrinth of cross- L^eams, for the purpose of
better enabling her to euduiv^ the immense pressure
of the ice. Tiie object of this cccond expedition of
tlie Prix^ce Albert, was to continue ihv. search by way
ot I^rince Regent'' a Inlet^ an important portion of the
Polar region, which neither Captain Penny nor Cap-
tain Austin had cplored, nor any other Arctic voy-
ager previous to that period.

The crew of the Pvmce Albert consisted of the
commanding officer and seventeen men. She was
furnished with two large and valuable boats, one of
u;utta-percha, and the other of mahogany ; together

* Sm p«g« 84S of thi» Tolum* for (he detalLs of tbjt Tojtf ^

' n. ■

162

ntOOBESS OF ABOno DIBOOVEBT.

*''■

with several smaller ones. Tlie vessel was provi
Bioned for two years. On the 22d of May she left
Aberdeen Harbor. Lady Franklin was then on board,
and as she left the ship after expressine^ all her wishes
and hopes for the success of the gallant crew, was
loudly and entliusiastically cheered, as she deserved
to be, as she descended tlie vessel's side to return to
the shore. On the 23d of June they made lloy
Sound, and soon reached Cape Farewell. Captain
Kennedy had been instructed to examine Prince Re-
y:ent's Inlet, and the ]>as8a<i;es connecting it with the
Western Sea, south-west of C^ape Walker. To the
latter point, strong proljubilities in favor of linding
traces of Sir John Franklin concentrated ; inasmuch
as it was supposed to be likely that he abandoned his
vessels to the south-west of Cape Walker; from the
fact that he himself entertained the opinion that an
open passage Wiis to be found from the westward into
the south part of Itegent's lulet; and because tiiis re-
gion of country was kni»wn to j)ossess consido'able
animal life, and he would have the stores placed at
Fury Beach soon within liis reach. It wiis also
thought that he would have pursued this route, inas-
much as he more probably expected assistance to he
sent him by way of Lancaster Sound and Barrow
Straits, into whicli Kegent's Inlet opened, than by any
other direction.

By the 1st of July Captain Kennedy was In full
view of the shores of Greenland. They then pje-
sented a spectacle of morethan-ordinary interest and
sublimity. As far as the eye could reach, they -^ enied
a sterile and iron-bound coai-t, diversitied here au.l
there with huge clilis of rock and ice, ascen<iing
steridy into the wintry heavens a thousand I'eet in
height. Often gloomy caverns were seen in the ice
which were portals for the discharge of some half
frozen stream into the ocean, tilled with small ice-
bergs which were but rolling and tossing in the Hood.
The vessel soon passed Capes Desolutiou and Coia

OAPTAIN KENNEDY'S VOTAOI.

46S

fort ; and by tlio 8tli of July they were three-fotirthi
of their way up Baffiu's Bay, and nearly opposite to
the Danish village of llpcruavick. At this village
thov took on board six powerful Escpiimaux dogs, and
Beafskin boats adapted to the Arctic regions.

On the 13th, the Prince Albert fell in with th«
American squadron whicli had just escaped from their
extraordinary drift of eiglit months in the heart of
the pack, through Lancaster Sound and Baffin's Bay,
Finding Melville Bay completely closed by the ice,
Captain Kennedy determined to attempt a passage
further south. After four days of difficult and peril-
ous navigation, they succeeded in elfecting an advance
of 120 miles through the packed ice, and reached
West Water on the 21st of August. This was a very
perilous exploit, and is one which has proved the de-
struction of many a bold adventurer in those seas.
The small dimensions of the Prince Albert seem to
have given her great advantages over her more bulky
associates. On the 20th of August they were off
Pond's Bay, and were here for the last time visited
by a small company of Esquimaux. The extreme
rarity of the atmosphere in these northern climes,
was proved by the fact, tliat the voices of the Esqui-
maux could be clearly heard as they approached the
vessel, at the distance cf eight miles.

From Pond's Bay Captain Kennedy steered through
Lancaster Sound. On the 3d of September he
reached Barrow Straits. At this point he attempted
to reach Cape Kiley, in hope of there finding traces
of Sir John Franklin ; but after bearing up repeated-
ly for the North Laud through heavy fogs, snow, and
gales, was compelled to abandon the purpose. On
the 4th of September Captain Kennedy arrived at the
mouth of Prince Kegeut^s Inlet, one of the special
objects of his search, lie there found an unbroken
barrier of ice extending as far down the west side of
Prince Uegent's Inlet as the eye could see, piled up
iu deufle madBes on the ehore. The oasteru udo ami

..C^W^'"*

464

FSOGBESS OF ABOTIO DISOOTSBT.

IN I

f¥'^

I M

middle of the inlet were comparatively open. Thlo
state of tlie ice forbade further progress m the in-
tetided direction. They attempted to run into Leo-
pold Harbor, but found that also impossible. Thence
they ran down to Elwin Bay to Batty Bay, and to
Fury Beach, finding them all closed. They were
very nearly involved in the position which had proved
the destruction of the Fury — in a narrow lane be-
tween the shore and an extensive field of moving ice.
Being thus excluded entirely from the western shore
of the inlet, they were compelled to sail to the oppo-
site. After making a circuit of some forty hours
along a high and dead wall, of ice, they reached Port
Bowen on the 5th, Landing^ here, Captain Kennedy
found a few traces of Sir E. Parry's party. These
were several cairns, a fire-place of stones, pieces of
canvas, nails, and broken pipes. There was here,
also, a single grave, the lonely resting-place of one
John Cottrell, a seaman of the Fury, who was buried
in July, i2?'5, aged thirty-nine.

It was still regarded as of the utmost importance to
reach Port Leopold, and there eft'ect a landing. On
the 9th having crossed the inlet, and brought the ship
to within several miles of Cape Seppings, the southern
point of Port Leopold, Captain Kennedy determined
to land with the gutta-percha boat, and four seamen,
for the purpose of making explorations. He xound a
narrow lane of water whitsti brought them quickly to
the shore. On ascending the cli^ on Cape Seppings,
the appearance of the ice was such as to induce Cap-
tain Kennedy to conclude that very soon the Regent's
Inlet would become clear and navigable. Af'ier an
hour spent on shore, he prepared to return to the
ship, but found his progress entirely cut ofiT by the
ice, which, during his delay, had entirely changed
its position. Night soon came on. The ocean was
covered with huge masses of ice : grinding, tossing
and rearing furiously on every side. To attempt to
rojfich the ship then, was directly to court destractioii.

GAPTAm eennedt'b totaob.

466

They were compelled to draw up tlieir boat on the
beach, and turning her over, to prepare to pass the
night under her. So intense was the cold tliat Cap-
tain Kennedy was compelled to prevent the men
from sleeping during the whole night, knowing thM
that alone would prevent them from freezing to aeath.
When the next morning dawned, and they looked out
on the troubled sea, they found that every vestige of
the Prince Albert had vanished.

This position of the captain and his men, was both
unpleasant and dangerous. He determined first to
fall back to "Whaler Point, where Sir James Hoss had
deposited a store of provisions. They found the
house erected by Sir James, still standing, and the
provisions in good order, consisting of pemmican,
chocolate and biscuit.

It was now the 10th of September and winter was
upon them. The only remedy for the lonely exiles,
was to make the best preparations possible to pass the
winter at Whaler Point, hoping in the ensuing spring
to obtain a rescue. It was a sad and sudden termi-
nation to the voyage, and they submitted to it most
reluctantly. They went to work and transformed
the Icunch left there by Sir James Ross into a shelter,
by laying her main-mast on supports at the bow and
stern, and spreading over them two sails. This pro-
ciu'ed them a shelter. A stove was set up in the

ceuter of the boat with the pipe running through the
roof. This warmed them. Iney obtained blankets
and clothes from the depot left by Sir James; and
this rendered their condition more tolerable. Thus
\''eir dreary residence in those Polar regions began,
with the prospect of a long and increasingly rigorous
w't^iter before them. What the final issue mignt be,
4,Lwy could not predict. Time alone could solve that
mystery. The only signs of life which appeared
aiouiid them, were a few Polar bears and foxes.

Happily an uuexpectod termination was put to
their dauger and suspense on the 17th of September,

1(1,1

466

PBOGBESS OF ABGTIO DISCOYEST.

^m¥ '

wi' ■

Mm. ■

P-

(

El;--

(

by the sudden appearance of a party of seven men
under Mr. Bellot, who had left the Prince Albert in
search of the absentees, and had dragged the jolly-
boat all the way from Batty Bay. It was the third
attempt which had been made to discover and rescue
them, by the crew on board the ship. The joy of
Captain Kennedy and his men at this sudden deliv-
erance may readily be imagined. They were thu3
snatched most probably from the jaws of a frozen and
mysterious grave which would soon have closed over
them.

Five weeks had elapsed during their involuntary
absence from the ship, and they seemed to possess
the magnitude of years to the despairing wanderers.
So far distant were they from the vessel, that it re-
quired a journey of several days to conduct them
tnither. The company then prepared to pass the win-
ter in their present situation. The deck was cleared
of lumber and covered with a housing. They then
built out-houses of snow for various purposes, for
wash houses, for a carpenter sh#p, and for forges.
All the powder on board was taken on shore and
buried in th« snow. The winter was to be passed in
making extensive land journeys in all directions, in
search of Sir John Franklin. They prepared a quan-
tity of snow-shoes and winter clothing. As soon as
the ice in Prince Regent's Inlet permitted them to
travel from the ships with safety, they commenced
their explorations.

The tirst object of inquiry was to ascertain whether
Fury Beach had been a point of refuge to any of Sir
John Franklin's company, since it was visited by
Lieutenant Robinson in 1849. It was also desirable
to form a depot of provisions there, to aid in future
researched wnich might be made in the same direc-
tion. They followed the base of the lofty cliiFs which
extend in an almost continuous line from Batty Bay
to Fury Bei^^h. The company consisted of five per-
BOOS including Oaptain Kennedy. They dragged a

1' I -, ■ I :

ilM.'-

CAPTAIN KENNEDT'G VOTAOl.

467

eleigh with them, 'which was no easy task, as the
ground was covered the entire way with bouhlers
and large fragments of ice, which had been stranded
on the beach by many snccessive tempests. Theie
were also immense sloping embankments of drifted
snow, which lay high up against the face of the cliffs.
Their entire journey was performed by moonlight,
the sun having entirely bidden them farewell before
their departure from the ship.

Sir John Koss had erected in 1832 at Fury Beach,
a building which he had named Somerset Uouse.
Many hopes centered around this spot, because it was
reasonably supposed that if any of Franklin's party
had been imprisoned in the Arctic seas, and had ever
come near to Fury Beach, they would have repaired
to this well known spot, both for shelter and provis-
*ons. As soon as Captain Kennedy reached this
house on Jaimary 8th, he discovered that all his hopes
had been illusions. A death-like solitude pervaded
the moon-lit and frozen gloom around them. The
eye rested on a surrounding waste, relieved by no
sign of recent life, cheered by no evidence of the for-
mer presence of those whom they sought. The stores
which had there been placed were fcitill in perfect
preservation. The house itself had become much di-
lapidated by the severity of the climate, and by tho
rude salutes of those Arctic storms. The root was
much broken. The inder-statf had been thrown
down by the winds, and had been gnawed by the
famished foxes. One end of the building was tilled
with snow. They lighted a lire in the stove whieh
Sir John lioss had once used, and prepared their sup-
per. After spending a few hours in the careful ex-
amination of that dreary spot, rendered still more mel-
ancholy by tho lunar gloom and the disappointment
of all their hopes, Captain Kennedy ancf hia men
returned after a journey of Bcveral days to the ship.
No iiaces of the lost navigators had been seen during
this asit to Furjr Beach. Tho state of the weather

Inw'^

I M

\h^'

'■iH

III '

'('

S i

468

FB00BB8S OF ABCTIG DIS00T1CRT.

dnring tlie ensuing month, compelled Captain Ken*
nedy to remain in his vessel. There they wore nearly
overwhelmed by avalanches of snow. There seemed
to be but one gale during the winter around the ship ;
but that gale blew when she came, and continued tdl
she departed. It was dangerous to venture forth even
for a short distance ; inasmuch as the snow-drifts and
the darkness combined, soon involved the traveler in
a whirling deluge which rendered it impossible to see
six paces off.

A small party were actually lost for a short time,
when endeavoring to convey some provisions a short
distance from the ship to form a depot. After pro-
ceeding a few hours, a furious hurricane arose, which
drifted the snow in fearful masses around them. In
attempting to cross a bay on their return, they lost
sight of the land by which their course was to be

fuided. Neither sun, moon, or stars illumined the
eavens. They knew not which way to turn. They
tried the expedient of setting the dogs loose which
drew the sledge. They all started off at a rapid pace,
and afterward reached the ship ; but their gait was
too rapid for the men, whom they soon left behind to
their fate. They still went on however, sometimes
walking, sometimes crawling, sometimes climbing
over the immense blocks and masses of ice and snow
drifts. At length they reached the powder magazine,
and after some further difficulty, they found the ship.
Their escape was accidental ; for the men had be-
come so benumbed with cold, as to be able no longer
to clear their eyelids of the accumulation of snow
which had rested on them, and were thus nearly blind.
Thus February wore away, and Captain Kennedy
began to prepare for the execution of the chief land
journey which had been contemplated by the expe-
dition. The end of this journey was Cape Walker ;
for it was supposed that if Sir John Franklin had
taken his departure for the unknown regions to the

OAFTAm KXimEDY'8 YOTAOB.

469

'I
2,0.

west and south-west, lie would have started from thiA
point, and not from Wellington Channel.

Five men accompanied Captain Kennedy on this
excursion. As far as Fury Beach they were accom-
panied by seven persons as a fatigue party. Their
provisions, clothing, and bedding were drawn on two
Indian sleighs by five dogs. They started on the 25t]i
of February, and were accoi ipanied by the whole
crew as far as Batty Bay. On the 5th of March
Captain Kennedy reached Fury Beach. Here they
remained several days, and fouud the old stores do-
posited here by Sir John Ross, not only in a state of
good preservation, but also much superior in quality
to those which they brought with them. These pro-
visions consisted ol preserved meats, vegetables, and
soups, and after thirty years' exposure to the intense
climate of the Arctic zone, they were found to be still
perfect I The fiour had all become caked in solid
lumps, and had to be reground and passed through a
seive before it could be used ; but then it furnished
most excellent biscuit.

On the 29th of March Captain Keniedy resumed
his march from Fury Beach. He had four flat-bot-
tomed Indian sleighs, drawn by tlie dogs and men.
They proceeded toward Cape Garry over a long route
of noes and low-lying points. They uniforinly com-
menced their journey immediately after breakfasty
and continued till evening, when a snow hut was
greeted, and preparations made to pass the night in
it. Their labors were rarely over and repose begun,
before ten o'clock at night.

On the Ist of April they reached Craswell Bay,
and in the evening came to Cape Garry. They
thence proceeded onward to Brentford Bay, where
they found a dozen Esquimaux huts, deserted by their
inhabitants. Here the party divided for the purpose
of exploring several channels of open water wtiich
extended toward the interior. Captain Kennedy
traveled twenty miles along one of these channek.

k1
" .1

1 1

4
'i 1

','' i

I ,1;

470

PB0OBE8S OB ABOTIO OIBOOVEBT.

From a liill on which he here encamped he saw a
broad channel running north-east, which he at first
supposed to be a continuation of Brentford Bay. Its
great extent however, convinced liim that it was a
western sea, and that the narrow passage through
which he had just traveled was a strait leading out
of Prince Regent's Inlet. This being apparently a
new discovery, Captain Kennedy called it Bellol
Strait, after the second officer of the expedition. This
water was afterward discovered to be the northern
extremity of Victoria Strait, which Dr. Kae had ex-
plored from another direction.

At this point Captain Kennedy determined to pro-
ceed in a westward direction, in order to ascertain
whether any channel existed there through which
Sir John Franklin might have penetrated from Cape
"Walker.

On the 8th of April he started in pursuance of
this pvj-pose. Their progress was slow in consequence
of the roi7ghness of the ice. The men became much
afflicted with snow-blindness, and were much dis-
tressed by the sharp particles of snow drift which
were dashed by the furious wind into their eyes. The
wide region around them was perfectly level, and
Captain Kennedy named it Arrow Smith's Plains.
£cmet:.mes t}:.o severity of the weather compelled
them to re?i;ain for se /eral days in their snow-hut.
They traveled on lor t lirteen days without meeting
any in^iications of the approaching sea. This con-
vinced Captain Kennedy that there was no passage
by water to the south-west of Cape Walker; and that
due acrtL was now the most desirable course to be
puroued.

S'oilo'ving this purpose he traveled in that direct
tion for twenty miles over a level plain. On the 24th
of April they arrived at the bottom of a deep inlet,
which has since been ascertained to be the Omma-
oev Bay of Captain Austin's expedition. From this
point they steered eastward, in order to strike tho

Ur M

i?!i'

11 1%

CAPTAIN Kennedy's voyaob.

471

cliannel supposed to be to the eastward of Cape
Hunny, ond })y following it to reach Capo Walker.

After throe days they came to Browne's Bay. At
length on the 4th of May, they approached the bold
headland of Cape Walker, for the attainment of which
they had endured so much. Here they confidently
hoped to find some traces of Sir John 1^ ranklin, had
he followed the suggestions contained in his original
instructions. Ciiptain Kennedy accordingly searched
every spot within three miles on both sides of the
cape. They followed the windings of the rough ice
outside the beach. They examined the base of the
lofty clifl's which stretch away northward from the
cape. Not a single vestige of the lost navigator could
anywhere be discovered.

Captain Kennedy now determined immediately to
return to the ship. He pushed directly across North
Somerset toward Batty Bay, intending to follow the
ioast to Whaler Point. This route was double the
distance of the one already followed ; but it was
hoped that perhaps it miglit lead to some desirable
results. On the lirst day they encamped about mid-
way between Cape Walker and Limestone Island.
They passed by Cunningham Inlet, Cape Gillbrd, and
Cape Kennel. At Cape McClintock they found the
small store of provisions which Sir John Ross had
left there in 1841). On the 15th of May they reached
Whaler Point. On the 27th, they left Whaler Point,
feo return directly to the Prince Albert, and on the
30th their laud journey ended by their safe arrival at
the vessel.

Yarious preparations for their departure now occu-
pied the attention of the seamen. On the 2l8t of July
these were completed ; but they found it impossible
to move th'i biiip. • The ice had congealed firmly
around her. Thi only possibility of releasing her
was by sawin^,; a c.anal through the ice which still ob-
structed the bay. Aiter the hard labor of a week, a
canal half a mile in length, and suliicieutly wide to

IMAGE EVALUATION
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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716)872-4503

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472

PROORKSS OF AUGTIC DISCOVERY.

permit tlie vessel to pass was cut through. This chan-
nel was thon clearod of the ice by the use of Copt
land's blasting cylinders.

On the 6tn of August Captain Kennedy and his
crew joyfully bade farewoll to Eatty Lay, where the
Prince Albert had remained tLree hundred and
thirty days. In Elwin Bay thev wore detained a
whole week by tlie compact masses of ice which still
obstructed the sea. On the 17th, the ice suddenly
cleared away, and they then steore<' for Beechey Islancl.
At this point ihoy met tlie " North Star," from Eng-
land, commanded by Cajttain Pull 3n, which had been
despatched by the British Admiralty, to pursue tha
search after Sir John Franklin.

Having completed the object of the expedition, as
far as Iiad been in his power, though without any
very satisfactory results, Captain itennedy on the
24th of August bore away for England, leaving the
North Star preparing to winter at Beechey Island, and
carrying with him the latest dispatches for the Ad-
miralty from Commander PuUen. He wished to
touch on his voyage at Navy Board Inlet, hoping to
be able to ascertain the state of the stores which had
been placed there. Two unsuccessful attempts to ac-
complish this purpose were defeated, and Captain
Kennedy was then compelled by stress of weather, to
relinquish that design. On the 21st of September
the Prince Albert reached Capo Farewell ; and on
the 7th of October, sbe anchored in Aberdeen Har-
bor. Six weeks had elapsed since the commence-
ment of her homeward-bound voyage. The entire
expedition had occupied the period altogether of tif-
tx3en months. During their winter stay at Whaler
Point, many of the men had traveled two thousand
miles in excursions in various directions. The expe-
dition settled the point, that Sir John Franklin could
not have advanced by Cape Walker, but had taken the
northern route through Queen Channel and Penny
Strait; and that traces of his fate could alone be

PB. KAKR 8 SXPEDTITON.

473

fonnd from the westward or Beliring*8 Straits. Yet
there too, other researches, equally sagacious, perse-
verinff and thorough, have all unfortunately proved
equally unsuccessful I

Arotio Explorations; the second Grtnnell Expe-
DrriON IN SEAKcii of Sir John Franklin in 1853, '54,
'55, BY Dr. E. K. Kane, in the Brig " Advance."

In December, 1852, Dr. Kane received his orders
from the Navy Department at Washington, to con-
duct an expedition into the Arctic reo^ions in search
of the great English navigator. The ship " Advance,"
in which he had formerly sailed, was placed under
his command. Ho immediately proceeded to select
his crew, to equip the vessel, and to make the other
preparations which were necessary. His party num-
bered seventeen picked men, all of whom had folun-
teered to try with him the perilous vicissitudes of
liis daring venture. The brig sailed from the port
of New I'ork, on the 30th of May, 1853 , and in
eighteen days arrived at St. Johns, New Foundland.
After providing themselves at this place with an ad-
ditional stock of fresh meat, and a valuable team of
Newfoundland dogs, they steered for the coast of
Greenland.

The avowed purpose of this second Arctic journey
of Dr. Kane was, to explore what he believed to be
the probable extension of the northern promontory of
the peninsula of Greenland. He also thought that
the extreme northern headland of this frozen region
undoubtedly contained and would exhibit traces of
the lost navigators. Ho supposed that the chain of
the great; lan(f masses of Green land miglit extend very
far toward the North Pole ; that Sir John Franklin
might also have been attracted by this theory, and
might have pursued this route; and that by a
thorough Beer'''i in that direction, the utmost limits
of whidi had not yet been invadea or explored by his

474

ntoGimBs OF ABxmo disooyebt*

pi?

bold and adventurons predecessors, some light mi^lit
not only be obtained to solve the great enigma which
still engrossed the wonder of men, but also new and
independent discoveries might be made in that un-
known region.

On the Ist of July Dr. Kane entered the harbor
of Fiskernoes, one of the Danish settlements of Green-
land. This obscure and lonely co-nmunity is sup-
ported by their trade in codfish. The strangers were
received with simple hospitality by Mr. Lazzen, the
superintendent of tne colony. Some fresh provisions
were here also obtained, and an Esquimaux liunter of
superior skill was enlisted in the service of the party.
Proceeding on from this point, the other Danish
settlements of Greenland were successively visited —
LichtenfelSjSukkertoppen, Proven, Uporuavick,at the
last of which places the first Grinnell expedition of
1851 had rested after its winter drift. At length they
reached Yotlik, the most northern point in Greenland
inliabited by human beings. Beyond this the coast
may be regarded as having been until that period,
unexplored. From Yotlik, Dr. Kane steered north-
ward toward Butfiu's Islands, whicli he found then
clear of ice ; and passing by Duck Island, bore away
for Wilcox Point. As he approached Melville Bay
he was enveloped in a thick fog, during the preva-
lence of which he drifted among the icebergs. Ai-
ter a hard day's work with the boats, they towed the
brig away from these unpleasant and dangerous
neighbors. Ho then determined to stand westward,
and double Melville Bay by an outside passage, un-
less prevented and intercepted by the pack. In exe-
cuting this purpose he concluded, in order to avoid
the drifting fioes, to anchor to an ice-berg. Eight
hours were spent in the severe labor of warping, heav-
ing, and planting the anchors. But scarcely had this
task been tinishod, when the attention of the crew waa
attracted by a loud crackling sound aloft. Small frag-
ments of ice began to descend. The ship became iQ

DR. KANE S EXPEDITION.

475

the

imminent peril from the falling fragments of the dis-
Bi. /m^ mountain. Scarcely mid she cast off from

face of it descended in ruins

roaring with a thundei

tlio ice-berg, when the
upon the sea, crashing and
not unlike that of artillery.

On the 6th of August they passed tlie "Crimson
Oliffa," so called, from the appearance usually pre-
sented by their 8iK>w-cla<l summits. Next day tney
re.'iched Hakluyt Island ; which is surmounted by a
tall spire springini' six hundred feet into the heavens
above the lovtd of the water. They soon passed Ca])es
Alexander and Isabella, and thus entered Smith's
Sound. Uaving veached Littleton Island, Dr. Kane
determined to d*iposit here a supply of provisions,
and some permaueut traces of his route, to be used
in case it should W necessary afterward to send an
exploring party to di«<pover the fate of his own. The
life-boaj; was accordingly buried here, containing a
supply of pemmican, bhink<^*«. and India rubber cloth.
They endeavored to fortify the precious deposit from
the claws of the Polar bea''^ And here on this lone-
ly spot, the party were surprised to find the traces of
Esquimaux life. The ruins of stone huts, and even
the frozen corpses of the dead wavti discovered : and
so singular had been the action of the intense cold
upon the dead bodies, that though t.Kejr had probably
occupied their cheerless homes for h century, they
were still not decomposed.

The 20th K>f August still found thQ brig and her
gallant crew navigating the dangerovis and ice-la-
dened waters of Smith's Sound. At thi<4 date they en-
countered a storm of extraordinary fury ; and made
one of those narrow escapes from destruction, which
sometimes give an air more of romajnce than of reali-
ty to the adventures of Arctic explorers. In r terr' '^c
gale their three hawsers were broken, and tbe brig
drifted with fearful rapidity under the furious press-
ure of the storm. Only by the utmost heroiera »ud
skill was the Advance Kept irom being dashed to
30 T»

f-'

ii-l

PBOGBESB OF ARCmO DISCOVERY.

pieces against the mountains of ice which tossed^
rolled, and surged around her in the deep. The
greatest danger of all was after the storm had partly
lulled, when the bergs continued to thump against
the floe-ice ; and the certainty of being crushed be-
tween the two, stared the voyagers in the face. A
sudden means of escape presented itself, and with ad-
mirable dexterity and promptitude the crew availed
themselves of it. A low, water-washed berg at that
moment came driving along past the Advance. An
anchor was instantly planted in its side and held fast
by a whale line. Carried along with fearful rapidi-
ty by this giiijantic tow-horse, the little brig was
chifted out of danger, and once more escaped the im-
pending ruin. She had a close shave of it neverthe-
less, and would have lost her port quarter-boat had
it not been taken in from the davits.

The navigators continued their northern ^;outo by
tracking along the ice-belt which hugs the frozen
shore. On the 23d of August they had reached 78°
41' north latitude. This placed tliem further north
than any of their predecessors had been, except Cap-
tain Parry. During the progress of the journey, the
whole coast had been inspected carefully ; yet no
traces of Sir John Franklin had been discovered. On
the 28th of August Dr. Kane determined to send out
an expedition from the vessel to make further search,
as the condition of the ice prevented the Advance
from being brought near to tiie shore." The whale-
boat was chosen for this adventure. They took with
them a sledge and a supply of pemmican. The par-
ty consisted of seven persons selected from the crew
The vessel was placed under the temporary control
of Mr. Ohlsen. Ihe adventurers were provided witli
buflalo robes, and other necessary means of protec-
tion against the extreme cold. Their progress how-
over was slow, not making more than seven miles per
day, in consequence of the obstructiona of the ice
along the shore. Very soon they were compelled to

DB. KAHB'b BXFKDinOV.

477

hhf, 'idon the boat, and employ their sledge. The ab»
Tnpt nature of tlio ground over which they traveled
rray be inferred from the fact, that frequently thcv
?7ero conatrained to carry the sledge on their shoul-
i«a*8 over precipices and gorges in the ice, and over
h^gh and perpendicular knolls of enow.

In this trip the travelers found many skeletons of
*.he reindeer. Dr. Kane ascertained by scientific ob-
servation, tliat the moan elevation of tliis part of the
coast of Greenland was thirteen hundred feet. After
five days' laborious travel, he was but foi'ty miles dis-
tant from the brig. Here ho determined to leave the
biedge behind and proceed on foot. On the 5th of
September they discovered a bay mucli larger than
iiny otlier previously known to extend from Smith's
Straits, It was fed by a large river which poured a
flood ot tumultuous waters into it from the interior
of North Greenland. It was fully three quarters of
a mile wide at its mouth. The gallant navigators
gave it the name of Mary Minturn Kiver, after the
Bister of MiVB. 11. Grinnell. This river was traced for
forty miles toward its mouth ; and its origin was found
to be derived from the melting snows of the interior
glaciers.

From his researches in this region, Dr. Kane came
to the conclusion that this coast of Greenland faced
to the north, llis longitude here was 78° 41' west.
After sixteen miles of foct journey the company
reached a great headland to which they gave the
name of Thackeray. Eight miles further on, a
similar eminence attracted tiieir attention; to which
they applied the epithet of llawkes. The tablelands
here wore twelve hundred feet high. The party con-
tinued their dillicult and dangerous journey until they
reached some lofty headlands, where they determined
to terminate their excursion. These reached an alti-
Ude of eleven hundred feet, and overlooked an ex-

fjanse extending beycr.d the eighteenth parallel of
atitude. The yiew fj<:m this elevation was mariced

■< IM!

¥'■

478

FB0OBBB8 OF AVXTTIO DmOOTEBT.

by every element of gloomy and clioorlcBfl magnifi
cenco. On the loft, Uie western shore of the sound
stretched away toward the northern pole. To the
right a rngged and rolling country appeared, which
ended in the Great Humboldt Glacier. Toward the
nortlk-east the projecting headland called Cape An-
drew Jackson, appeared; and the vast area between
was a sea of solid ice. Farther still, a stream of ice-
bergs presented their rugged and unseemly bulks to
the eye of the observer.

Having carefully examined the whole country as
far as his glasses would reach, Dr. Kane determmed
to return to the Advance. Winter was now rapidly
approaching, and it was necessary to select some ap-
propriate spot in which the crew and the vessel might
pass its long, gloomy, and dangerous interval. For
various reasons which need not here be detailed, Dr.
Kane resolved to remain where he then was. He
had arrived at the conclusion tiiat Kensselaer Harbcr
would be tlic most desirable winter quarters; and on
the 10th of September they comujenced the labors
necessary to render their position tenable and safe.
They removed the contents of the hold of the vessel
to a store-house which they prepared on Butter Island.
A deck-house was built on the vessel, in which the
ditferent qualities of veutilctiou, warmth, dryness,
room, and comfort, were sought to the utmost possi-
ble extent, A site for the observatory was selected.
Stones were hauled over the ice on sledges for its erec-
tion. Its location was on a rocky inlet about a hun-
dred yards from the vessel, which they named Fern
liock. Treparatious were also made, preparatory to
the work of establishing provision depots on the coast
of Greenland. The advantage of these provision de-
pots will appear from the fact that by their assistance,
expeditious of search could afterward be conducted
with tJi© use of sledges and dogs. The provisions for
the latter, if taken on the journeys themselves, form
oo bf.afT Si ioad as beriouslv to embaiTass the mov<i

DB. KANE'S EXPEDinOV.

478

monts of tho travelers. But when thoy woro rcletiBod
from thin labor, these dogs conveyed tho sledges and
thoir occupants on long journeys successfully, and
with great rapidity on their tours of examination.

On the 20th of September the l.rst party organized
to establish i)rovi8ion deoots wjis seiit out. It consist-
ed of seven men. A sledge thirteen feet in length,
called the " Faith," was tilled with pemmican, and
was drawn by those attached to it, by means of track-
ropes termed rue-raddies, which were passed around
the shoulder and under tlie arms. Tho intended lo-
cation of this depot was sixty miles from the brig, on
the Greenlanu coast. As tiie bold and hardy auvcn-
turers started forth, they were saluted with three
hearty cheers by their comrades who remained with
tho vessel.

The life of tlie party which remained in the vessel
was not devoid of incident and interest. They made
a desperate attempt to smoke out the rats with which
they were infested. To accomplish tiiis purpose, a
quantity of charcoal was burnt, after the hatches had
been shut down, and every visible crovice had been
stopped. A largo quantity of carbonic acid gas was
then generated, and tho crow spent one night on deck
in oraer to give the rats fair play. One or two of tho
seamen made a narrow escape from suHbcation, by
venturing during tho night into the fumigated por-
tion of tho ship. They woro also assailed by another
peril. A barrel of charcoal by some means became
Ignited, which had been left in the carpenter's room
at some distance from tho stove. After some labor
and more anxiety, tho tire was suppressed before any
very serious damage had been done to the vessel. The
corpses of twenty-eight defunct rats, of ail sizes, ages,
and Bexes, became tho next day the trophies of the
successful attack of the crew upon their foes.

By the 10th of October the party which had been
tent to establish the Urst depot of proviaiona, had
been absent twenty days; and their return waa anx-

r ^;.i:

%i '

f!j'

lift'

. sii' -,1

L'i

*{,'i

'i ■..;>■

:. ii

480

PBOOSBBB or ABOnO DDOOTEBT.

iously expected. Dr. Eane at length detannined to
start out in search of them. He traveled with one
companion on a sledge drawn by four Newfoundland
dogs. He averaged twenty miles per day with this
singular team. On the 15th, several hours oefore sun-
rise, he perceived on the distant and snowy waste, a
dark object which seemed to move. It proved to be
the returning depot-party. They had traveled at the
rate of eighteen miles per day, and had been twenty-
eight days engaged in their laborious expedition.
Some of their limbs had been frozen, and they had met
with other mishaps, though none were of a very seri-
ous nature, and they had accomplished the purpose
for which they had been sent out. The greeting
which ensued on their return to the ship, was hearty
on both sides. They had made the first deposit of
provision at Cape Russell. Thirty milea further on,
they left about a hundred and ten pounds of pemmi-
can and beef, about thirty pounds of a mixture of
pemmican and meal, and a ba^ of bread. On the
10th of October they made their third and last de-
posit on an island called James McGary, after the
second officer of the expedition. Here they erected
a cairn, and buried six liundred and seventy pounds
of pemmican, and forty of meat, biscuit, with other
items, making in all ei^ht liundred pounds. One in-
cident which occurred during their journey, illustrates
very clearly some of the perils which attend Arctic
travel. The company had pitched their tent for the
night and had retired to rest. It was about mid-
night. They had been lulled to slumber by the grand
monotonous thundering of the neighboring glaciers.
Suddenly the Hoe on which the tent was placed,
cracked with a stupendous reoort directly beneath
them. The sleeping party neeaed no further prompt-
ings to bestir themselves. Hepeated reports around
them gave evidence that the ice was oreaking up.
The aledge was immediately placed upon a detached
pieoo of iG«| and rowed and paddled to one of tht

lf...il

•i

DB. KANB B BXPEOITIOV.

481

firmer fields which remained attached to the hergg.
Here they obtained safety until the morning, when
they quicKly removed from their dangerous position.
They eventually returned in safety to the brig.

By the 7th of November, 1853, the darkness of an
Arctic winter began to settle down upon them. It
was necessary to keep the lamps lit constantly. They
had the comfortable prospect ' Mnety days of dark-
ness yet to come. It was natural that the lonely ad-
venturers should begin to devise some moans of
ajmsement, by which they might beguile the cheer-
less monotony of their existence. A fancy ball was
projected, and an Arctic journal bearing the appro-
priate title of "The Ice Blink," was coniuienccd.
Thus the slow and tedious days and nights of their
winter sojourn wore on. In spite of the intense cold,
Dr. Kane continued to make his magnetic observa-
tions in the observatory. When the thermometer
stood at forty-nine degrees below zero, and even at
3ixty-four degrees below zero, he still effected his as-
tronomical investigations and calculations.

On the 2l8t of January the tirst traces of the re-
turmL^ light became visible. Its approach was in-
dicated by a beauteous orange tint, which Hushed the
distant southern horizon. But still, the darkness
seemed to be eternal and unvarying. The continued
absence of light appeared to anect the health of the
party, as much as the excessive rigor of the cold.
By tne 21st of February the sun's rays became clearly
visible, and when March arrived, it brought with it
the almost perpetual day which alternately takes the
place in the Arctic realms of almost perpetual night.
During the winter, nine noble Newfoundland, and
thirty^ve Esquimaux dogs, which were of the ut-
most value, had perished. Six only remained out
of the whole number which had been taken at the
commencement of the expedition ; and these were
now their only reliance in their future oneratious.

By the 18tL of March the spring tiaes began tc

482

FBOOBESS OF ABOTIO DSOOYEBT.

■• ,

break and move tho massivo ico which still bound tht
Arctic Sea. Tho ico coininoncod to grind and crush •
the wutor to diish to and 1 Vo ; and Iho vessel to rise
and descend in a range of Hevenleon feet per day.
On tho 20th a deput-]>urty wjis nent out, prepaiatory
to tho commencenient of tlio operations of tlio sum-
mer. Those wlio remained in the ship commenced
to clean it, to (alvo down tlie forward bulwarks and to
clear tlie dcvks. Tlie necessary pre]>arati()ns for in-
land trips and reisoarclies were nuide ; sledges and
accoutrements were contrived, and moccasins were
fabricated. AVhilo these labors occupied their atten-
tion, a portion of tho depot inivty suddenly reap
peared at the vesael. Tifey brouglit back a terrible
report. Tlioy had left four of their number lying on
the ice f' zan and disabled, and they had rotivn)HCJI »
great distance to obtain instant relief.

Not a moment was to be lost. Ohisei;, tnci only
one of the returned party who seemed able to giva
any information, was wra})ped up in bulialo robes au'i
placed upon a fledge. JNino men started out 1o tho
rescue. The cold was intense, ranging seventy-eight
degrees below the freezing point. The instant the
party ceased to move the} would have been frozo^ to
deatli. Violent exercise alone kept them alive.
When they ventured to apply snow to their lips to
slake their thirst, it burnt like caustic, and blood im-
mediately followed. iSome of tho men were seized
with trembling lits, and some with attacks of short
breath. Dr. Raue himself, fainted twice upon the
snow under tho intense cold.

After a laborious and dangerous journey of twenty-
one hours, the lost party were discovered. They were
nearly forty miles distant from the brig. Their con-
dition was perilous in the extreme ; and the succor
did not come a moment too soon. But the rescuers
were scarcely better otf than the rescued. They were
compelled to drag a load of nine hundied pounds
apou the sledge ; and during their return trip tho

.■ i-

DB. KAHB'B KXrEDITK^V.

488

whole party were in imininont danger of befn^ frozen
to doam. Tlioy could witli tlio utinr Ht difflcnltj roRist
tlio diflposition to Hloop, wliicli would luivo immediate-
ly Hcjiled their fate. After a feajful journey of Hev-
(jral (l.'iys the ])!irty ro;]jairicd the hr!;; ; hut the suffer-
ings of that terrihlo oeciHion were almost heyond the
])ower of imagination. Thoy had traveled about
ninety miles; and most of the men had become tem-
porarily delirious; nc^arly all were frozen in Bomo
})oition8 of their bodies; and two of them nltimjjtely
died in consequence of their exnosure.

On the 27t]i of April, the time having arrived to con-
tinue his rc!searcht!8 both at' t Sir John Franklin an^d
in Arctic discovery, Dr. K.vne determined to resume
his expeditions. Ifo resolved now to follow the ice-
belt to the Great (ihicier of Humboldt, and thence to
stretch along the faue of the glacier, toward the west
of north, and make an attempt to cross the ice to the
American side of the channel. Tiio object of this
bold venture was to attain the utmost limit of the
shore of Greenland ; to measure the waste which ex-
tended between it and the unknown west ; and thus
to reveal, if possible, some of the mysteries which
suri'ouuded the North Pole. The journey was immo-
diatoly commenced. After many adventures and
sutierings which we will not describe, the Great Gla-
cier of Ilumboldt was reached. A more magnificent
object than this does not exist on the globe. It pre-
sents a shining wall of ice 300 feet in height, frown-
ing over the frozen sea below, and extends unbroken
for sixty miles. It is the great crystal bridge which
has for ages connected together the two coutmenta of
America and Greenland, and it extends from the nea
toward the interior, through vast and unknown
regions.

Dr. Kane now determined to organize a double
party, in order to ascertain whether a channel or any
form of outlet existed to the northern extremi^ of
the coast of Greenland. He wau couviuced ox the

Mi.

1.'

%■
U

>\' {-

^■'Pfl

FBOOREBB OF ABOTIO DISOOTEET.

existence of such a channel from the movements of
the ice*bergs; from the physical character of the
tides ; as well as from certain and uniform analogies
of physical geography.

On the 3a of June one of the parties of explora-
tion set out from the brig. They had a large sledge
thirteen feet long. They aimed directly for the gla-
cier-barrier on the Greenland side. Their orders were
to attempt to scale the ice and examine the interior
of the great mer-de-glace,

(Jn the 27th of June one of the parties, directed by
McGarry and Bonsall, returned to the brig. Several
of them had become nearly blind. After twelve
days' travel they had reached the Great Glacier.
They found the depot of provisions, which had been
deposited the previous season, destroyed by the
bears. These brutes had broken open the tin cases
in which the pemmican had been deposited. An al-
cohol cask strongly bound in iron was dashed into
fragments; and a tin liquor can was mashed and
twisted into a ball. This party of explorers had
found it impossible to scale the Great Glacier, and
returned to the brig without having effected any re-
sults of importance.

The other party, which had been placed under the

fuidance of Mr. Morton, left the vessel on the 4th of
une. On the 15th they reached the foot of the
Great Glacier. Thejr steered northward, keeping
parallel with the glacier, and from five to seven miles
distant from it. The thickness of the ice over which
thev journeyed was found to be seven feet five
inches. They traveled frequently with the snow up
to thoir knees. When they had reached Peabody
Bay they encountered the bergs, whose surface was
fresh and glassy. Some of these were rectangular
in shape and some were square ; and their length va-
ried from a quarter of a mile to a mile. The task of
traveling over these bergs was full of difiicaJty and

BOL sAn'B KZPKDrnxai.

48«

danger. At length they made their way through
them to the smoother ice which lay beyond.

On the 19th of June, having encamped, Morton as-
cended a high berg, in order to examme their future
route and survey the surrounding desolation. From
this point he beheld an extensive plain which stretched
away toward the north, which proved to be the Great
Glacier of Humboldt, as it appeared toward the in-
terior, which also fronted on the bay. From this
point the advance of the party was perilous. They
were frequently arrested by wide and deep fissures in
the ice. This difficulty compelled them to turn to-
ward the west. Some of these chasms were four feet
wide, and contained water at the bottom. From this
point they beheld the distant northern shore, termed
the " "West Laud." Its appearance was mountainous
and rolling. Its distance from them seemed to be
about sixty miles.

At length, by the 21st of June, the party reached
a point opposite the termination of the Great Glacier.
It appeared to be mixed with earth and rocks. T^av*
eliug on, they reached at length the head of Kennedy
channel, and saw beyond that the open water. Passing
in their route a cape, they called it Cape Andrew Jack-
son. Here they found good smooth ice ; for during
the last few days they had passed over rotten ice,
which not unfrequently threatened to break beneath
them. Having entered the curve of a bay, they
named it after Robert Morris, the peat financier of
the revolution. On *^ 3 smooth ice m this vicinity the
party advanced at the rate of six miles per hour.

Kennedy Channel here grew narrower, but after-
ward it widened again. Broken ice in large masses
was floating in it ; but there were passages fifteen
miles in width, which remained perfectly clear. Six
miles inward from the channel, mountains rose to the
view. On the 22d of June they encamped, aftei hav-
ing traveled forty-eight miles in a direct Une. They
were still upon the shores of the chanueL Thej could

; i

ftsa

PBOOBBBS OF AACmO DIBOOYERT.

plainly bco tlio opposito shore, wliich appeared pro*
cipitons, and Bnrjnounted witli sngar-lojif shaped
mountains. At this ))art of their journoy they en-
countered a Pohir bear, with lier cub. A despevato
fight ensued, in whlcli tlie singular instincts of niituro
were strikingly illustrate<l, by tho desperate ellorts
mado by tho poor brute to i)rotect her helpless oll-
Bpring. Both were slain. A sliallow bay covered
with ICO was then crossed. They passed several isl-
ands which lay in the channel, which they named
after Sir John Franklin and Captain Crozier. Tiie
clilFs which hero constituted tho shore of tho clian-
nol were very high, towering at least two thou-
sand feet above itc surface. The party attempted to
ascend these clilfs; but found it impossible to mount
more than a few hundred feet. On the highest point
which they attained, a walking polo was fastened,
witti the Grinnell Hag of the Antartlc attached to it;
and thus for an hour and a half this standard was per-
mitted to wave over the highest northern region of
thfi earth ever attained by tlie foot of man.

They here encountered a cape, and the party do-
sired to pass around it, in order to ascertain whether
there lay any unknown laud beyond it. But they
found it impossible to advance. This then was the
utmost limit and termination of their journey toward
tho pole. Mr. Morton ascended an eminence liere,
and carefully scrutinized tho aspects of nature all
around him. Six degrees toward the west of north,
he observed a lofty peak, truncated in its form, and
about three thousand feet in height. This elevation
is named Mount Edward Parry, after tho great pio-
neer of Ai'ctic adventure ; and is tho most extreme
northern point of land known to exist upon tho globe.
From the position which Mr. Morton had attained,
he beheld toward the north, from an elevation of four
hundred feet, a boundless waste of waters stretching
away towai'd tho polo. Kot a particle of ice eucum-
bei'ed its smfaco. He heard the dashing of uufrozeu

Ui-

DB. KANE*( BXPEDrnOV.

4«7

waves, and beheld ft rolling flnrf liko that of more
peiital climcfl, rush ini!^ and dashinfij against the rocka
nT»on the Hli(>r(\ This was certainly a myBtorioua
liliononicnon. IIoic; wan a lliiid sea, in tho midst of
wliolt; contincntH of ice, and tliat sea socraed to wash
tlic Pole ilFclf. Tlio eye of tlie cxjdorcr surveyed at
Ica^t forty inilcsof uuititci/iiptcd water in a northern
direction. The ])oint thus^ reached in this oxjdoring
exjicdition, was about five hundi'cd miles distant from
the Pole. Had the party been aide to convey thither
a boat, they iiiii;lit iiave embarked npon tho bright
and j>lacid waters of that lonely ocean. But having
been able to make this journey only with the sledffo,
further explorations were of course impossible. Tlie
most remarkable development connected with these
discoveries was, that the temperature was here found
to bo much more moderate than it was further south.
Marine birds sailed through the heavens. Rippling
waves followed eacli other on the surface of the deep.
A few stunted flowers grew over the barren and
rocky shore. The inference which may be drawn
from these and other facts is, that this open sea,
termed the Polar Basin, stretches to the Pole itself,
or at least continues a great distance until its course
is interrupted by other projections of the terra iirma.
These are mysterious inquiries, still the great desid-
erata of Arctic travel ; wnich wiil remain unanswered,
until some more successful explorer, gifted with
greater physical endurance, if any such can be, and
turnished with ampler and more abundant facilities
than any of his predecessors, shall persist in defiance
of every impediment in advancing, until he boldly
plants his foot upon the very spot now termed the
North Pole.

The several parties which had been sent forth by
Dr. Kane, to explore tho regions just described, hav-
ing returned, tho season of Arctic travel had nearly
terminated, and the members of the expedition were
about to relapse into winter quarters, with their usual

if-i-i* »

., u ,,

:|;*l
%!

488

nooBBBB Of Alono zmoomnr.

darknoss, monotony, and ffloom. But before resign-
ing themselves entirely to this unwelcome seclusion,
Dr. Kane resolved to make an effort to roach Beecliey
Island. At this point, already so frequently referred
to in the preceding pages, Sir Edward Belcher's
squadron was then supposed to be stationed; and
from them the American explorers might obtain
both provisions and information. Accordingly, Dr.
Kane manned his boat, called the "Forlorn llope,"
which was twenty-three feet long, and six foot and a
half beam. Tlie necessary amount of provisions were
placed on board, and the bold venture was undertaken.
Sometimes the boat was navigated through the un-
frozen channels of water, which intervened between
the floes of ice ; at others she was placed on a large
sledge called the " Faith," and thus transported over
the Irozeu wastes.

This party approached Littleton Island, which had
been visited by Captain In^letield. They here ob-
tained a vast quantity of eidor ducks. They then
passed Flagstaff Point and Oombermere Oape. Then
came Oape Isabella and Cape Frederick VII On
the 23d of July they reached Hakluyt Island; and
thence they steered for Cary Islands. But on the
Slst of July, when they had reached a point but ten
miles distant from Cape Parry, their further progress
was absolutely stopped. A Bolid mass of ice lay be-
fore them on the sea, extendiug as far as the eye
could reach. This barrier was composed of the vast
seas of ice which had drifted through Jones' Sound on
the west, and those of Murchison^ on the east. The
adventurers were now compelled to retrace their
way. About the Ist of August they regained the
brie, without having met with any accident, but also
witL>ut having succeeded in attaming the object of
theii excursion. They found the ** Advance" just as
tightly wedded into the ice as it had been during the
preoeding eleven months, with no hope of getting
Mr released. Two important questions now demanf

OS. Kimf i smDRxcnr,

489

be-

ed their attention. The first was. how thej were to
pass this, thoir second winter in tne Arctic regions;
and how they wore to malce their escape in the ensn-
ing Bpring.

w hatever might bo the issue of the future, Dr. Kane
dotermiuod to leave a memorial at the spot which
ho then occupied, to prove to his successors the fact
that he and his expedition had been there. He paint>
ed the words "Advance, A. D. 1853-54," upon the
broad face of a rock, which rested on a high cliff look-
ing out upon the frozen waste. Near this spot a hole
was drilled into the rock, and a paper containing a
history of tlio expedition and its present condition,
was placed in glass, and sealed into the cavity with
melted lead. Close at hand were buried the corpses
of the two members of the expedition who had al-
ready ended their toils and sufferings.

The prospect of a second winter amid the eternal
snows and ice of the Polar Circle, was not inviting to
tho adventurers. A portion of them felt convinced
of the practicability of an immediate escape to the
south. On the 24th of August Dr. Kane summoned
ail hands together, and clearly stated to them the as-
uects of the case. He advisea that all should remain
oy the brig till the next spring ; although he declared
that those who wished to return could make the at-
tempt. Eight men concluded to remain ; and nine
of them resolved that, rather than endure tlie miseries
of a second winter near the Pole, they would run the
risks of an instant attempt to escape. This resolution
they made immediate preparations to execute. A
full share of the remaining provisions was measured
out to them. They were assured of a welcome re-
ception if they chose to return; and they started
forth on August 28th from the brig. One of this
pai'ty returned to the vessel in a few days ; the rest
wandered for manv months, and endured much misery
and exposui'e, betore thev rejoined their wiser ooqd
rades in the brig.

ft90

PB00ft£8S or ABOTIO DISOOTERT.

Dr. Kane and the eight men who remained with
him, immediately began to prepare for the horrors of
the ensuing winter. They gathered a large amount
of moss with which they lined and padded the quar-
ter-deck. This expedient rendered their cabin imper-
ious to the changes and the extreme severity of the
atmosphere. They stripped oft' the outer-deck plank-
ing of the brig, for the purpose of fire-wood. The
chief necessity of the explorers was fresh meat, to
guard them against the scurvy. To obtain this food,
Irequent excursions were made for the purpose of cap-
turing seals. On one of tliose occasions Dr. Kane
narrowly escaped a watery grave. lie was at twelve
miles' distance from the brig, with a single attendant.
The ice broke beneath their sledge, and they were
precipitated into the water. After great exertions
and amid extreme danger, they succeeded in regain-
ing ice sufficiently strong to bear tlieir weight. They
lost their sledge, tent, kayack, guns, and snow-shoes.

At length, hy the 21st of October, the rays of the
Bun had ceased to reach them; and darkness — the
cold and cheerless darkness of an Aictic night settled
down upon them. They were compelled to confine
themselves to the precincts of their gloomy cabin,
and waste away as best they could, the slow hours
of their long winter. Their oniy light was an occa-
sional aurora, whose pale, bright arch of brilliant hues
seemed to be resting on the distant Tole. The ther-
mometer now ranged 34° below zero. Thus, in this
strange monotony of routine and incident, November
and December wore away ; except that during the
latter month, a portion of the party who had deserted
the brig on the 28th of August previous, returned to
their old quarters. They had suffered much; and
had left the remainder of their party two hundred
miles distant in the midst of great destitution. The
thermometer was then fifty degrees below zero. When
Christmas came it was celebrated for the second time
by this gallant crew ot heroes, amid the Arctic soli

DB. Kline's ExPEDmoir.

401

bimo
Isoli

tados, with snch moans as they conld command--
which indeed wore few ; and thus ended with them
tho year 1854.

The three most daiigorous and dreary months of
the year — January, February, and March — were now
before them. During these months it was exceeding
ly difficult for the adv'enturers to procure fresh meat,
which was their only preventive and cure of scurvy.
With this disease every member of the party became
at last infected; some so seriously that tneir lives
were in danger. Thus the dreary drama of their Arc-
tic exile dragged on. They waited patiently for the
time to arrive when they could commence the neces-
sary preparations for the journey of thirteen hundred
miles which they would undertake in the sprinw.
The vessel would evidently remain so firmly fixed m
an ocean of i«>e, that its removal would be utterly im--
possible. Their return must be etfected with the com-
bined use of sledges and boats. Yet before commenc-
ing a final retreat. Dr. Kane resolved to attempt once
more a northern excursion, hoping that it might re-
sult in some useful discovery connected with Sie ob-
ject of the expedition.

The region which was yet to bo explored was tho
farther shores beyond Kennedy Chaaricl. The aid of
tho dogs was indispensable to the accomplishment
of this task ; and there were but four left out of tho
sixty-two, wliich composed thair stock when they left
Newfoundland. An arrangeueut was however mado
with Kalutunah, one of the «randering Esquimaux
whom they knew, for the uskj of his dogs and three
sledges. Thus reontbrced, I> Kane, accompanied by
several experienced Esquimaux travelers, commenced
his journey. In two houre ti.«y reached a lofty berg
fifteen miles north of the brig Tho view of tho chan-
nel presented from the sumn it of this berg waa not
very favorable. The outside channel seeired filled
witn squeezed ice ; and on Une frozen plain bojondf
the bergs appeared o be mucai distorted.

!i'f

Tji

J »

tl' i,'

P:1 '

f ,

PBOOESBS OF ASCna PTSOOTKBT.

NeTertheless, Dr. Kane resolved to make the Ten*
tare. They quickly paseod fifteen miles' further;
when the party halted to feed and rest. The jonmey
was then resumed. But unfortunately the traces of
a Polar bear soon attracted the attention of the Esnni-
manz, and the temptation was too strong for famished
men to resist. A chase ensued. The animal was
qpickly brought to bay, attacked, and dispatched.
Then ensned another gorge, and afler the gorge there
necessarily came an interval of reposA and sleep.

A sleep of four hours' duration ensued upon the
open snow ; after which the i)arty arose and resumed
their journey. Dr. Kane dcsiroa to steer directly to
the northward ; but his associates declared that to
cross so hiffh up as they then were, was impossible.
The fate of Baker and Schubert in the preceding year,
who attempted this feat, recurred to their recollec-
tion, and convinced them that the attempt would be
then extremely hazardous. Again was the leader of
the expedition fated to experionco a disappointment,
and to return to the brig without having accomplished
the purpose for which he set forth. But beiore he
did so, he embraced tlie opportunity which was with-
in his reach, once more to examine the Great Hum-
boldt Glacier, one of the most remarkable monuments
in nature. The whole horizon before him was bound-
ed bv long lines of ice-bergs. They undulated about
the horizon, but as they descended to the sea, they
resembled an uneven plain with an inclination of
about nine degrees, still diminishing as they ap-
proached the foreground. Vast crevasses appeared in
the distance like mere wrinkles. These grew larger
as they approached the sea, where they expanded in-
to ffigantic stairways.

The appearance of this Great Humboldt Glacier
resembles in some respects the frozen masses of the
Alps ; and reminded the bold adventurer of many
scenes which he had witnessed in the mountains of
Norway and Swltieriand. The average height of

DB. KANB'S EXPEDITIQV.

493

this ^eat etacior along the water's edge was abont
three hunurod foct ; and this height was presented
by an uniform perspective of sixty miles in length ;
thus exhibiting one of the most sublime and imposing
spectacles which the mind can conceive. Tlie config-
urations of its surface and form clearly indicate that
its inequalities follow those of the rocky soil on which
it rests. Having made various observations upon the
phenomena connected with this glacier, Dr. Kane re-
sumed his return toward the brig. Tiio company
traveled over the frozen surface of tlie ice to the south
of Peabody Bay. The lirat spot at which they landed
was called Cape James Kent. It was a rugged and
lofty headlancf ; and it presented in the distance a
strange spectacle of arutie surface, covered with mil-
lions of tons of rubbish, rocks of every imaginable
Bhape, and slates of immense size and of infinite va-
riety of forms. On the south-eastern corner of Mar-
shall Bay the party found a group of Esquimaux re-
mains, consisting ot a few deserted huts and graves.
Tliey were the rude and melancholy relics of a race
of lonely wanderers who had passed away. These
remains were surrounded by the hones of the seal and
the walrus, and the dissevered vertebrae of a whale.
There were indications that the spot had long been
deserted ; and yet no changes had been eftbcted by
the silent lapse of time in those frozen and primeval
solitudes, in the appearance and position of these
simple monuments.

This journey was enlivened by several interesting
bear hunts ; and a few details respecting this Arctic
entertainment may here not be inappropriate.

The dogs with which these hunts are carried on,
are very carefully trained to play their part. This
part is not to attack the bear, but to hinder and im-

Eede his flight. While ono of these dogs occupies
is attention in front, another salutes his hind tegs
with vigorous bites. This keeps the animal oscilia-
ting between several distinct parties of foes ; and wliili

■^wmmim

M
iff

in, ii ,

-'V

fill

„u

4&I

FB00BE8B OF ABOTIO DISOOTEET.

he Is battling with one and the other, the hunteri
come np. In the iirst instance, as soon as the bear
sees the approach of tho dogs and men, he rises on
his haunches, carefully inspects his foes for a mo-
ment, and then takes to his heels. As the hunter ap-
proaches him, if he is riding on his tslodge he loosens
the traces of his two foremost dogs, wliich releases
them from their burden, and enables them to attack
the bear. Soon after, the rest of tho dogs are libera-
ted in the same way. When there are two hunters,
bruin is soon and easily dispatched. They surround
him, and while one of them protends to stab him with
a spear on the right side, and thus engages the bear
in his defense in that direction, the death wound is
inflicted on the left by tho same weapon. If there
be but one hunter, the task is neither so easy nor so
safe. The hunter grasps his lance tirmly in his hands,
and provokes the bear to pursue him by rilnuing
across his path, and then ])retending to ilee. When
the bear has begun the chase, tho hunter suddenly
doubles on his track by a dexterous leap ; and while
the bear is in the act of turning around, he is stabbed
with the spear in his left side below the shoulder.
if this stab be skillfully executed, the bear ia at once
disabled and soon expires. If it is not, the hunter
has then to run for his life, alter leaving his spear
sticking in the side of his victim. If the bear geta
the hunter in his grasp, he salutes him with divers
hugs and squeezes, which aro much more vigorous
and affectionate than agreeable, lie sometimes also
uses his teeth. Dr. Kane saw some Esquimaux liuu-
ters who had been bitten behind in tho calves ot the
legs; and another who had received a similar saluLu
somewhat higher up.

Having returned to tho brig. Dr. Kane resumed
his preparations for llual departure. Frozen fast as
she was in the ice, there was no possibility of remov-
ing her. The only possible means of escijipe was by
the oombined uae oi boats and sledges. The pai'ty

DB. Kim's BXPEDrnOH.

49ft

wont to work indnstrionsly in the mannfactare of
clothing snitable to tho journey. Canvas moccaains
were made for each of the party, and a surplus sup-
ply of throe dozen was added to the stock. Their
Doots were made of carpeting, with soles of walrus or
seal hide, and some had been fabricated from the
chafing gear of tho brig. Otlier portions of their
clothing wore made out of blankets. Every one act-
ed as his own tailor. Their bedding was made out
of the woolen curtjiinawith which their berths in tho
brig bad been adorned. These were quilted with
eider down, and buffalo robes were added to increaso
their warmth.

Their provision bags consisted of sail-cloth, made
water-tight by the application of tar and pitch. Thoy
were of various sizes, so as to be more conveniently
stowed away in the boats. The ship-bread was pow-
dered by being beaten with a capstan-bar, and then
pressed down into tlie bags. Fork-fat and tallow
being melted down, were poured into other bags as
into moulds, and thus left to freeze. Concentrated
bean-Boup was cooked up and prepared in tho same
way. The flour and meat-bisouit wore protected
from moisture in double bags. Dr. Kane's plan was
to subsist his party for some time after they loft tho
brig, by new supplies of provisions which ho could
bring u'om tho vessel by trips with his dog-team.

Tho means of conveyance which were to carry tho
company on this long and weary journey, and which
wero to bo carried by them in a great measure, con-
sisted of three boats. These had all suffered very
materially from exposure to the ice and tho Arctic
storms ; and wero scarcely sea-worthy. They wore
strengthened and tinkered in every possible way by
oak bottom-pieces, and by wash-boards which protect-
ed the gunwales and gave them greater depth. A
housing of canvas was stretched upon a ridge lino,
which was suspended by stanchions, and which were
fiistoued over the iides of the boats to jack-stayi.

raoo:

ov ABono dhootsbt*

ll.h

':<'■■

Each boat had a single mast, and it was bo arranged
that it conld be oAsily nnsbippod, and carried along*
side the boat. The boats were mounted on sledges.
The provisions were stored carefully under the thwarts.
The boats were to be drawn by the men with me-rad*
dies, or straps, which passed over the shoulder and
were attached by a long trace to the sledge. The
philosophical instruments were carefully boxed and
padded, and placed in the stern-slieets of one of the
Doats. Spy-glasses and small instruments the trav-
elers carried on their persons. The powder and shot,
WiLich now became of infinite value to them, were dis-
tributed in bags and tin canisters. The percussion
caps, the most valuable of all. Dr. Kane himself took
charge of and reserved.

Having made all the preparations which werepos-
iible under the circumstances of the case. Dr. Kane
announced to his crew that he appointed the 17th of
May as the day of their final departure from the brig.
Each man was allowed to select and retain eight
pounds of personal cfiects. The announcement of
their final departure toward the south was not received
by the members of the expedition with the OLthusiasm
which Dr. Kane had expected. Some doubted the
reality of the journey home ; and suspected that it
was merely a maneuver to remove the sick to the
hunting grounds. Others thought that the real pur-
pose was only to journey further south, whilst the
bri^ was retained as a refuse for them to retreat to ;
while others suspected that their leader merely
wished to reach some point on the coast where he
could obtain a rescue from passing whalers, or from
some of the English Arctic expeditions which were
fitiil sujpposed to be lingering in those remote regions.
The sicK among the crew, who had long been accus-
tomed to inaction rndindiUgence, declared themselves
unfit to be removed, and unable to travel a mile.

But in spite of all these obstacles, the resolation of
Ihe commander of the vxpeditioQ was unalterable.

ni. KAiri't KCPBDrnoiv.

49T

He was determhied to commence this memorable
journey on the day appointed, at all hazards. At
length the day preceding that of departure arrived.
The boats were removed from tlie brig and placed
upon the ice. This process seemed to revire to some
degree the desponding spirits of the men. The pro-
visions were then conveyed into them ; and other
necessary transfers were made. After some hours of
active operations, the whole of their task was com-
pleted ; and the men returned on board the brig) in
order to spend their last ni^ht in that familiar
slielter. After sujjper thev retired to rest, in order to
recruit their energies for the toils which were to com-
mence on the ensuing day, upon the final success of
which their future existence depended.

At length the wished-for moment arrived when the
weary adventurers were to take their last farewell of
the vessel which had been associated with them in
so many vicissitudes and dangers. All hands were
assembled together in silence in the winter chamber.
The day was Sunday, and the exercises began by the
reading of a chapter of the scriptures. Dr. Kane
then took Sir John Franklin's portrait from its frame,
and enclosed it in an ludia-rubber scroll. The sev-
eral reports of inspection and survey were then read,
which set forth what results had already been attained,
and contained the reasons which induced the com-
mander of the expedition to take the steps which
were to ensue. He then addressed his men in refer-
ence to the journey on which they were about to en-
ter, explaining its necessity, Ihe method according to
which it was to be conducted, and the certainty of
final relief and escape which it would bring them, if
they resolutely persisted in carrying; it oat. Thirteen
hundred miles of ice and water lav between their
present position and the shores of rtorth. Greenland.
He closed by directing their hopes of safety, not oa-
titly, to that great Unseen Power who had abeady
rescued them from a thousand deaths, and who would

U»

mUWM Ii !

• K'

498

raOOBBBS OFABOnO DISOOTEXT.

eontinae to be their very present help in everj time
of need.

The men responded to the sentiments and purposes
expressed by Dr. Kane with more enthusiasm than
he seems to have anticipated. They drew up a state-
ment in which they expressed their conviction of the
necessity which existed of abandoning the brig; the
impossibility of remaining a third winter in the ice ;
the obligation which rested on them to convey the
sick carefully along with them ; and their determina-
tion to cooperate with their leader in his proposed
measures of escape. This statement was handed to
Dr. Kane. He also had prepared a narrative of the
considerations which induced him to abandon the ves-
sel. This he posted to a stanchion near the gangway,
so that it might attract the attention of any one who
approached the vessel. The party then went on deck ;
the flags were hoisted to the mast-head, and lowerea
again; the men paraded twice around the brig, care-
fully scrutinizing her timbers, associated in theii
minds with so many pleasing and painful recollec-
tions ; and having thus saluted the vessel for the last
time, they rushed away over the ice toward the boats,
whicn had already been removed, filled with their
cargo, and made ready to commence their homeward
journey.

The whole return party consisted of seventeen per-
sons, including Dr. Kane. Four of these were sick,
and unable to move. The rest were divided into two
companies, and appropriated to the several boats.
Dr. Kane took charge o? the dog-tea«, which was to
bo used for tlio purpose of conveying provisions from-
the vessel to the crew, during the first few days of
their journey. To the boat called "Faith," McGary,
Ohlsen, Bonsall, Petersen, and llickey were assigned.
To the " Hope," Morton, Sontag, Hiley, Blake, and
Godfrey were detailed.

The first stage of the journey was to a spot called
Anoatok, which had been a halting place in their win-

DB. KANS's EXPEDITXOir.

499

ter journeys. It was a single hut, composed of rude
and heavy stones, and resembled a cave more than
it did a house. Strange to say, this bleak and for-
lorn corner of that frozen hemisphere, the gloomiest
and most detestable on the whole face of tlie globe,
bore a name which was imposed by the least poeti-
cal of human beings, the Esquimaux, which was not
devoid of beauty ; for Anoatok in the jargon of the
shivering natives means " the wind-loved spot." It
was perched on the extreme point ol a rocky promon-
tory, and commanded a wide view of the icy straits,
both toward the north and south.

Dr. Kane had exerted himself to repair the hut, and
make it tit to shelter the sick. He had added a door
to its broken outlet, and had introduced a stove and
stove-pipe. Other improvements had been made.
A solitary pane of glass, which once had faced a
daguerreotype, was inserted in the door, to give a
scanty light. The provisions which had been re-
moved to this place were eight hundred pounds in
weight. Seven hundred 2)ouuds still remained in the
brig, to be removed by successive iourneya of the
dog-team. The services of these six do^s were in-
deed invaluable. In addition to all their previous
journeys, they carried Dr. Kane to and fro, with a
well-burdened sledge, nearly eight iiundrod miles du-
ring the Urst two weeks after they left the brig, be-
ing an average of iifty-seven miles per day.

So feeble and reduced were the parties who drag-
ged the two boats, that they advanced but a mile a
day, and on the 2tl:th had only made seven miles.
The halts were regulated entirely by the condition
of the men who required longer rest at some periods
than at others. The thermometer ranged below zero,
and the men slept at night in the boats, protected by
their canvas coverings. Had it not been for the
shelter which the hut at Anoatok aiibrded, the four
iick mon — Goodfellow, Wilson, Whipple, and Ste-
phonsoxi — ^they muat have perhJiod. At the timo ot

■.^ 'r

>m0 \

/I.. '

rti- *1

800

nOOBEBS 09 UKTnO DlgOOTBtT.

their removal into it, they were so drawn np with the
Bcurvy that they wore wholly unable to move. Yet
their de.ay in this hut was extremely gloomy; tor
it lasted from the time that they were removed from
the brig, until tliey were carried forward by the
sledgo to the boats which had been dragged by their
respective crows in advance of them. During this
interval they were carefully fed and attended by Dr.
Kane.

Dr. Kane's visits to the brig from time to time, in
order to obtain supplies of provisions, were full of in-
terest to him. On the first of these he found the ves-
Bel already inhabited by an old raven, which had often
been seen hovering around, and whom they had called
Magog. The Hre was lighted in the galley, the pork
was molted, large batches of bread were baked, dried
apples were stewed, and then the sledge was made
ready to return with the load. Such was usually the
routine of Dr. Kane's lonely visits to the bri^. Af-
ter the lirst of these visits, when he returned to the
^' wind-loved spot," Anoatok, with his sledge, he found
that the sick who still remained there had exhausted
their provisions ; that their single lamp had ^one out *
that the snow drifts had forced their way m at the
door, so that it could not be shut ; that the wind was
blowing furiously through the open tenement ; and
that the thermometer ranged only thirteen degrees
above zero. The iuvaiids were disheartened and hun-
gry. A fire was built with tarred rope ; a porridge
was prepared for them out of meat biscuit and pea
soup ; the door was fastened up ; a dripping slab of
fat pork was suspended over their lamp wick ; and
then all turned into ^>heir sleeping bags, after a hearty
though not very savory meal. So overcome were
they all with exposure and weakness, that they slept
until after all their watches had run down.

Dr. Kane then hurried forward to the sledge party,
who had by that time reached Ten Mile Ravine.
They were struggling with the deep snows, were over

;i I

NL KANB'8 BZFEDrnOV.

501

lor

whelmed with fati^e, and were somewhat di8h<)art<
ened. Although their feet were much swollon, they
had toiled that day for fourteen liours. Some were
suffering from snow-blindnesa, and were scarcely
able to work at the drag-ropes. In spite of all their
toils and sufferings, morning and evening prayers
were constantly read by the adventurers. Meanwhile
the sledge party advanced slowly toward the south.
On the 28th Dr. Kane paid his last visit to the brig.
He was compelled to leave behind his collections in
Natural History, his library, and some of his instru-
ments, such as his theoaolite and chart-box, the
useless daguerrotypes, and other companions and
mementoes of Arctic toil and suffering. Then he
mounted his sledge ; gave a last look at the blackened
hull and spars of the Advance; fiercely whipped up
his dogs in a paroxysm of mournful gloom; and
sped away for the last time, over the snowy waste
v^hich had been associated with so many recollec-
tions. Thus was left behind at last in its frozen bed,
the vessel which had been connected with two Arctic
expeditions, one of which is the most remarkable on
record ; and there doubtless she remains, an unseen
monument of human enterprise, benevolence, and
endurance.

From Anoatok Dr. Kane's next labor was to re-
move the provisions and men further on in their route.
A friendly Esquimaux, named Metek, was sent for-
ward to the next station, with two bags of bread-dust,
each weighing ninety pounds. The next station was
Etah Bay. About midnight Dr. Kane approached
that vicinity. The sun was low in the heavens, and
the air around was marked by that peculiar stillness
which accompanies the great solitudes of nature.
While feeling the oppressive weight of that silence,
his ears were suddenly greeted by unexpected sounds
of mirth and laughter. He haa approached an en-
oampment of the wandering Esquimaaz, consisting
of about thirty men, womou, and children. The causa

flii

I iwi iiiiMiiiiiwiiiimiii

:s!i

I," 1. !

P»ti : ^

■§»!" • ;

5 I i 1 ! ' • f

T I

502

PROGRESS OF ABOTIO DnOOYEBT.

of tlieir joy was the captnre of innnmerable bird%
called AnkSj/wliich they wore engaged in catching
with nets. Tliese birds, thon^hthe thennometerwaa
five degrees below zero, were flying about in the great-
est abundance ; and the hungry Esquimaux wore
eating them raw, as soon as taken. He saw two chil-
dren fighting for an owl, which as soon as captured
was torn limb from limb, and its warm flesh e.iten,
and its blood drunken, almost before life was extinct,
This was the spot wliich these birds mysteriously
chose for the purpose of breeding, from year to year;
and the Esquimaux as regularly found their way
thither in pursuit of them.

The travelers continued their weary march through
the snow, dragging their boats after them. Some-
times, when the weather moderated — for it was sum-
mer — the sledges broke through. Six men on one
occasion were thrown into the water ; and the " Hope "
was very nearly lost. Help came to them from the
Esquimaux at Etah, who sent them the loan of their
dogs, together with an additional supply of fresh pro-
visions. The dogs were of infinite service in drawing
one of the sledges, upon which the sick men were con-
veyed. At this period an accident deprived the ex-
pedition by death of one of its most useful members.
W hile crossing a tide-hole, one of the runners of the
"Ilope" sledjj^ broke through the ice. The energy
and presence of mind of Christian Ohlsen alone saved
her Irom being lost. By a prodigious eflbrt he passed
a capstan-bar under the sledge, and thus sustained its
weight until it was dragged forward to firm ice. In
doing this his footing gave way beneath him ; and ho
thus was compelled to strain himself. The eftbrt
ruined him. Some internal injury had been inflicted
by the efibrt ; and he died three days afterward. Hia
body was sewed up in his own blankets, and carried
in procession to the head of a little gorge to the east
of jPekiutlik, where a grave was excavated in the
frozen eai'th. There his body was deposited with a

DE. KANK 8 KXl'EDITIOH.

508

iii

few simple and appropriate ceremonies. His name
and ago were inscribed bv the commander on a strip
of sheet lead ; and ere Lis grave was filled by his
comrades, the brief and touching memorial was laid
upon his manly breast. A small mound was then
erected with rocks cind stones over his lonely resting
I)lace ; and there now sleep, in tliat cheerless and win
try tomb, the remains of Christian Ohlsen.

By the 6th of June the party reached Littleton
Island. From a lofty height here of some eight hun-
dred feet. Dr. Kane obtained his first view of the
open water, llis i)0 -ition at that time was 78° 22' 1"
latitude, and 74° 10' longitude. So weary were the men
of dragging the pledges over the snow and ice, that
they wished to take the direct route to the water,
upon which they were eager to embark with the
boats. But the dangers of the plan proposed over-
ruled their wishes, and the inland route, though longer,
was selected. The wished-for water which greeted
the eyes of tlie weary travelers, was llartsteiu Bay ;
and they welcomed it with emotions of rapture re-
sembling those which, as Xenophon records, filled the
minds and excited tlie entliusiasm of the ten thousand
Greeks when, fiVter their long and perilous march
tlirough Asia Minor, and their escape from the myr-
iads of Artaxerxes, they first beheld the distant
waves of the sea whose billows laved the shores of
their beloved Greece.

On the 16th of June the party reached the water.
It was at the northern curve of the North Bufiin Bay.
The surf roared sublimely in their ears, and sounded

like sweet music after their long and cheerless absence
from its bosom. The next thing to bo done was to

navigation which

prepare the boats for tiie diificuit
was to ensue. They were not sea-worthy. They had
been split with frost, warped by the sunshine, and
were open at the seams. They were to bo calked,
swelled, launched, and stowed. On the 18th th«
travelers were surrounded by all the Esquimaux whc

M
It

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|i'

.i:

I?.' J

504

ntOORBBB OF ABCrnO DXBOOTSKT.

iiad been assembled at Etah. They had come to bid

the strangers farewell, whom they had served to the
!)est of their ability at an earlier stage of their jour
iiey. They were indeed a miserable and forlorn race,
though kindly and confiding in their dispositions.
They received various presents and keepsakes from
the travelers — such as knives, files, saws, and lumps
of soap. They had been of great service in lending
hand-sledges and dogs ; in helping to carry baggage
and the sick from one station to another, along their
weary route ; and they parted from the strangers-
probably the last they were destined ever to behold
m that repulsive clime — with feelings of regret
which they did not conceal. Dr. Kane urged them
to emigrate further south ; for there they could ob-
tain more abundant food, and escape the perils of
starvation which constantly surrounded them.

On the evening of Sunday, June 17th, the party
hauled their boats through the hummocks, reached
the open sea, and launched their frail craft upon its
waters. But Eolus seemed determined not to per-
mit them yet to embark ; for he let loose his fiercest
winds, which began to dash a heavv wiiid-lipper
against the ice-fioe, and obliged the party to re-
ixiove their boats back with each new breakage of the
ice. The goods which had been stacked upon the ice
were conveyed further inward to the distance of sev
eral hundred yards. The storm continued to rage,
and to forbid them to venture on the treacherous ele-
ment. At last Dr. Kane saw the necessity of per-
mitting the worn-out men to repose, and in order to
do so securely, the boats were removed a mile from
the water's edge. The sea tore up the ice to the very
base of the berg to which they had fied for refuge,
and the angry deep seemed like a vast cauldron, boil-
ing with intense fury, while the immense fragments
of ice crashed and rolled together with a sound re«
sembliug thunder.

At length the storm subsided, aud the troubled sea

t>B. KAHB^B XZFEDinOH.

505

became tranquil. The boats were again prepared for
embarkation. - On Tuesday, the 19th, Dr. Kane suc-
ceeded in getting the Faith afloat, and he was soon
followed by the two other boats. Soon the wind
freshened, and the mariners began their welcome
progress homeward; but they had a long and perilous
voyage before them of many hundred 'miles. At
length they doubled Cape Alexander. Thoy desired
first to halt at Sutherland Island ; but the ice-belt
which hugged its shores was too steep to permit them
to land. They then steered for Hakluyt Island, but
had not proceeded far before the red boat swamped.
The crew were compelled to swim to the other boats ;
and the former was with difficulty kept afloat, and
dragged in tow by her comrades. Dr. Kane then
fastened his boats to an old floe ; aud thus sheltered,
the men obtained their second halt and rest, "When
they had become somewhat refreshed, they rowed for
Hakluyt Island, at a point less repulsive and imprac-
ticable than the one attempted the day before. A
spit to the southward gave them an opportunity to
haul up the boats on the land-ice, as the tide rose.
From this the men dragged the boats to the rocks
above and inland ; and were thus secure. It snowed
heavily during the ensuing night. A tent was pre-
pared for the sick ; and a few birds were luckilv ob-
tained to vary their stale diet of bread-dust and tallow.

On the next morning, the 22d, the snow storm
still continued to pelt them; but they pressed on-
ward toward Northumberland Island, and reached
it. They rowed their boats into a small inlet of open
water, which conducted them to the beach directly
beneath a hanging glacier which towered sublimely
into the heavens to the immense height of eleven
hundred feet.

The next day they crossed Murchison Obannel, and
at night encamped at the base of Cape Parry. The
day had been laboriously spent in tracking over the
ice, a&d in sailing through tortuous leads. The day

I I

506

PBOOBB88 OF ABC^nO DOKJOTSBT.

following they reach ed Fitz Clarence Kock ; one of
the most singular forms to be seen in that strange
clime. It rises to an immense height from a vast
field of ice, having the shape of an Egyptian pyra-
mid surmounted by an obelisk. In more frequented
waters it would be a valued landmark to the
navigator.

Stul they continued to toil onward from day to day.
Their progress was satisfactory, though their labor
was exhausting. Dr. Kane sometimes continued six
teen hours in succession at the helm. But now thcii
allowance of food began to grow scanty. It was
reduced to six ounces of bread-dust per dav, and a
lump of tallow about the size of a walnut. An occa-
sional cup of tea was their only consolation. From
this stage in their journey Dairy mple Kock became
perceptible in the distance. But the physical strength
of the men began to give way beneath their labors
and their insuihcient diet. At this crisis a gale struck
them from the north-west, and a floe, one end of
which having grounded on a tongue of ice about a
mile to the northward of them, began to swing round to-
ward the boats, and threaten to enclose and crush them.
Soon the destruction of the surrounding ice threatened
their own. For hundreds of yards on every side around
them the ice was crumbled, crushed, and piled in irreg-
ular and fragmentary masses. The thunder of the con-
fused ocean of frozen wrecks was overpowering. Sud-
denly the ice seemed to separate and forma channel;
and in that channel, so unexpectedly opened before
them, the men rowed the boats with the aid of their
boat hooks, and escaped a danger which a moment
before seemed inevitable and ruinous. Soon they
found themselves in a lead of land-water, wide enough
to r;'> vo them rowing room, and they hastened on to
the land, which loomed ahead. Keaching it, they
eagerly sought a shelter. The Hope here stove her
bottom, and lost part of her weacher-boarding. The
water broke over them, for the storm still continued.

,1^ ' il

DB. KANB S EXPEDITION.

607

'til

At length the tide rose high enough at three o'clocT?
to enable them to scale the ice-clim Tlioy succeeded
in pulling the ^out8 into a decj) and narrow gorge,
which opened between the towering cliffs. Tlie rocks
seemed almost to close above their heads. An ab-
rupt curve in the windings of this gorge placed a pro-
tecting rock behind them, which shielded them from
the violence of the winds and waves. They had reached
a haven of refuge which was almost a cave; where they
found a flock ot eider ducks on which they feasted ; and
where for three days they reposed from the dan fibers
and labors of their voyage. This retreat they ntly
called Weary Man's Rest.

The fourth day of July having arrived, it was com-
memorated by the adventurers by a few diluted and
moderate potations, such as their nearly exhausted
whisky flask permitted ; and they then embarked
and rowed industriously toward Wolstenholme Island.
During some succeeding days, they continued slowly
to progress toward the south, throuf^h the various lanes
of water which opened between the belt-ice and the
floe. By this time, the constant collisions between
the boats and the floating ice had rendered them quite
unseaworthy. The ice had strained their bottom tim-
bers, and constant baling was necessary. Their fresh
meat had all been consumed, and the men were now
reduced again to short rations of bread-dust.

On the 11th of July they approached Cape Dudley
Digges ; but their progress was suddenly stopped by
an immense tongue of Hoe which extended out to sea
for a prodigious distance. Tliey forced their way
into a lead of sludge, and attempted thus to advance.
They found this to be impossible ; and were glad to
make their escape from it. Dr. Kane .was at a loss
how to uroceod. He mounted an ice-berg to recon-
uoiter the surrounding prospect. It was gloomy and
repulsive in the extreme. Ihey were in advance of
the season ; and he discovered that in those waters
toward Gape York, the floes had not yet broken up.

ill

41 i

i«! n , i i Mu.« 'ij i inn. ii'OHWB aw' miW W !

608

noQREaa or AJioTia Duoomr.

,1 . !

i\ Mm

They Boemed to be surronndod in a cuHrd&^aCy witli
exhausted strength and foodf and no possibilitj of ea*
caping nntil the summer had broken open for them a
pathway of escape tlirough the water.

Dr. Kane resolved to steer for the rocky shore.
Above a narrow ledge of lofty cliffs mounted one
over the other to the prodigious height of eleven hun-
dred feet. Tlie waves dashed violently against that
ledge ; but still it afforded a shelter to the boats.
Here they were for the present again deposited ; and
fortunately a quantity of giiUs were found in the crevi-
ces of the rocks, which afforded the famished wander-
ers nutricious food. The glacier which stretched
away in front of them was aoout seven miles across.
On ascending the heights rbove him, Dr. Kane en-
joyed a magnificent prospect of the frozen ocean, the
mer-de-glace, whose glittoring surface spread out bo-
fore and around him. A vast undulatmg plain of
purple-colored ice appeared, extending to the limits
of the horizon, resplendent with the varied hues of
sun tipped crystal. This spot, where the wanderers
enjoyea so welcome a repose, such nutricious food,
and such sublime perspective, they named Providence
Halt. Here they remained till tlie 18th of July.

In resuming their voyage from this point, they en-
countered an accident which might have proved very
serious. When they launched the Ilope, she was pre-
cipitated into the sludge in such a manner as to carry
away her rail and bulwark. They lost overboard their
best shot-gun, and an equally indispensable utensil,
their kettle which had served them in every possible
capacity of kettle — such as soup-kettle, paste-kettle,
tea-kettle, and water-kettle. Sailing along they passed
the Crimson Cliffs, so named by Sir John Boss. They
continued thence to hug the shore. The weather
now moderated; and their voyage assumed more
agreeable and genial features. The men frequently
landed, climbed up the steep cliffs and ootained
abundant quantitiea of auks. Fires wort kindled

tML KAVS'S BXFIDmOV*

5i)»

with tho tnrf, and tho feasts wliicli onsuod weie rel-
ished with more than an ordinary appetite ; and that
also the more truly, beciiuse tlic travelers well knew
that their good fortune, and tlicir propitious seas and
weather, would not long continue. They were now
in 78" 20' north latitude.

On the 2l8t of June tlicy reached Cape Tork.
Their provisions had now diminished to six hundred
and forty pounds, or about thirty -six pounds to each
man. The question to be dctonninea was, whether
they should delay whore they then were for some
days until tho Bnore-ice opened ; or whether they
should desert the coast and venture boldly upon the
open water to the west. Dr. Kane ascended the
rocks upon the shore, and by the aid of his glass care*
fully scrutinized the ice. The latter coulu be seen
immoveably fixed to the shore in nearly an unbroken
sweep far beyond BushncU Island. The outside floes
were large ; and one large lead appeared to the view
which seemed to follow the main noe until it was lost
to seaward.

Dr. Kane explained to his men the motives which
induced him to adopt the course upon which ho had
determined. The boats were then hauled on shore,
examined, and repaired. One of these, the lied Erie,
was stripped of her cargo and prepared to be broken
up as soon as occasion should require. A beacon was
also erected on an eminence, which could be dis-
cerned both from the south and tho west, surmounted
by a red flannel shirt. Under the cairn was deposit-
ed a short narrative of tho condition and purposes of
the party. They then resumed their voyage steering
soutn by west through the ice-lields. For a while
thej^ progiessed safely enough. But soon tho irregu-
iiarities of the surface, loaded as it was by hummocks
and even larger masses, made it diflicult to discern
the state of the ice in the distance. At length they
lost their way ; the officer at ^he helm of the leading
boat deceived by the irregular shape of a large ice-

■■ >l

' i '

FBOOBESS Of ABOnO DDOOTXBT.

berg, had deserted the proper lead, and bad steered

far out of the true course.

Dr. Kane at once ordered a halt, and ascending an
ico-berg some three hundred feet in lieight, lie sur-
veyed the prospect. It was by no means encoura-
ging. They Imd advanced into the recesses of the
bay, and were surrounded on all sides by immense
ice-borgs and lloating ice. So dismal appeared their
situation that one of the sturdiest members of the ex-
pedition, who accompanied the commander in hissur-
vev, burst into tears at the sadness of their situation.

There was but one means of deliverance, and that
it behooved them to adopt instantly. They mjist re-
sume their sledges and retrace their way to the west-
ward. One sledge had already been cut up for iJrg-
wood. The boat Red Erie now shared the same fate ;
and was laid upon the floor of the other boats. Three
days of hard dragging over the ice ensued ; at the
end of which time they regained the ice-berg which
had misled them in the flrst instance, and had induced
them to take a course which had nearly ended in their
ruin. From this point made easier by experience,
thioy steered in the right direction into a free lead,
ancf wore wafted onward by a friendly breeze from
the north.

Another trouble now assailed the travelers, not less
important than the one they had just escaped. Their
provisions had fearfully diminished, and yet they were
hundreds of miles distant from the nearest Danish
settlement of Greenland. Their strength diminished
in proportion with rJ>oir food. The latter had become
80 much lessened j that Ave ounces of bread-dust, four
ounces of tallow, and three of bird's meat, were all
that could bo thenceforward allowed q&q^ man per
day. The commander now determined to try the
more open sea, as their progress along the coast had
been retarded by its sinuosities. During two daya
heavy fogs impeded their rapid advance. A south-
westerly wind brought the outside pack upon them|

Itt. kike's EZPEDinOV.

511

and oompellod thorn to haul up on the drifting Ire.
By this inoana they were driftcu with it twenty milca
away from their proper course. The labors and toils
of the party were extreme and exhausting ; and yot
thov manfully kept np their spirits.

A Btranj'o phenomenon now showed itself among
them; and one too of ominous import. TliougU
worked excessively they yet felt no hunger. Tliey
also seemed to lose tlieir physical strength. The
" Faith " also very nearly escaped destruction, by be-
ing left behind for a short time. Tlio outside pressure
had broken the floe asunder, and the Faith began to
floataway from them. Ilcr loss would have entailed
that of a largo portion of the scanty provisions which
thev still possessed ; and would nave inevitably
sealed their ruin. By the utmost exertions of the
men, some of whom seemed nearly thrown into hys-
terics by her threatened Ioqs, she was again secured.

The situation of the voyagers continued to become
more critical. They experienced a dithculty in breath-

ing, and an inability to sleep. Their line of travel
lay through the open bay, in the midst of the great
ice-drift which hurried from the Arctic climes into
the Atlantic ocean. Their boats were frail and shat-
tered, and constantly made enough water to require
their utmost exertions in bailing, in order to keep
them afloat. Their fresh food had been exhausted
for some days ; and they suliered from a low fever
which prostrated them to the utmost.

At this point of their progress they happily killed
a seal which they discovered on a small patch of ice.
The first sight of it created the utmost enthusiasm
among the men. As the boats silently approached
him and before they were within rifle shot, the seal
raised his head, surveyed the strangers, and was pre-
paring to dive into the water. The best marksman
of the company with their best rifle, had just drawn
Bight upon the seal ; and the lives of the whole party
may be said to have depended on the succesi of tlia

'if
!

I .

<! II

51S

FB00BSB8 ov ABono cuootht.

'.i .

rill

III

iii

'it

'1^

shot A moment of breathless anxietr ensaed ; but
the skill of Petersen prevailed. At mo instant the
crack of the rifle was heard the seal relaxed his long
body, and his head fell flat on the ice npon its utmost
verge. With a loud yell the famished men urged
forward the boat with their utmost strength. When
they reached the ice thev rushed over it, laughing,
crying, and brandishing their knives. The unhappy
seal was cut into strips before he had fairly time to
expire ; and was gorging the men with his raw re-
mains. Kot a single ounce was lost ; the intestines
even, were boiled in the soup-kettle ; and the carti-
laginous flippers were distributed and chewed to
pieces with the utmost relish.

This opportune supply of fresh food saved the lives
of the party. Their mental and physical health was
restorea. Several days afterward they killed another
seal, and thus each one retained a mens sana in sano
corpore. On the 1st of August they came within sight
of the DeviPs Thumb, and were no longer wanderers
in unknown regions ; but were within the limits of
the district frequented by the whalers. Soon they
reached the Duck Islands. At length they passed
Cape Shackleton, and then steered for the shore of
Greenland.

Their long voyage with its infinite anxieties and
toils — their perilous adventures amid cheerless conti-
nents of ice — their narrow escapes from the moun-
tainous ice-beres — their sufferings from cold, hunger,
and disease — their apprehensions of an unknown
grave in th*? solitudes of the Arctic realms — ^their
doubts of a final happy escape from the innumerable
perils, and of their welcome vision of their native land
and the fires' des of their former years — ^all these now
terminated in eventual triumph and escape. They
now shaped the course directly toward the shores of
Greenland, which clearly loomed ud in their distant
horixon. Kext day they met the nrst inhabitant of
that world from which they had been so long shul

v../-

DB. KANE'S EXBEDTnON.

618

out. It was a Greenlander who, in his email canoe
or kayak, was seeking eider down among the islands
which stud the coast. They hailed him. One of the
men, Petersen, knew him. It was Paul Trocharias.
" Don't you know me ? " enquired Petersen, as the
boats approached. "Pm Carl Petersen." "No,"
answered the Greenlander, "his wife says he is
dead ; " and with this response he rowed away from
them.

During two days longer they continued to follow
the coast, sailinff southward. At the end of this time
they discerned the single mast of a small shallop, and
heard words of mingled English and Danish from the
sailors on board of her. Tney soon discerned that
it was the Upernavick oil-boat o;i its way to Kingatok
to obtain blubber. The annual ship had arr ved from
Copenhagen at Proven ; and this was one of the boats
which supplied her with a cargo of oil. From the
sailors on board the shallop, Dr. Kane first received
information of the great events which, during his ab-
Bcence had agitated the world to which he had been
BO long a stranger ; how England and France had com-
bined with the Turk to humble the haughty pride of
the imperial Romanoff; and how vast armies were
then engaged in mortal strife on the once quiet and
fertile plains of the Crimea. For the first time he
learned the importance which Sebastopol had ac-
quired in the history and fate of the world, sur-
rounded as it then was with a battling host of a hun
dred thousand men.

They rowed on. Soon Kasarsoak, the snow-capped
summit of Sanderson's Hope appeard to them, tower-
ing above the mists ; and as they approached the
welome harbor of Upernavick, from which they had
issued several years before in the gallant vessel they
had now left behind them, they felt as only such men
under such circumstances could feel. During eighty-
four days they had lived in the open air, tossing m
frail boats on the bosom of the angry, half frozen
V

'I ii

' ii

■MOHto

mt»-Jm

MWM

014

PEOOEESS OF ARCnO DISCOVEET.

Mil'

tW: i '. !

deep. Tliey were delivered from a thousand doatha,
and arrived at last safely at ITpernavick, where they
were received with hospitality by the charitable
Danes, who inhabit that lonely and cheerless outport
of the civilized world.

Dr. Kane resolved to embark his party in the Dan-
ish vessel the Mariane, which sailed on the 6tli of
September for the Shetland Islands. Tliey took with
them their little boat tlie Faith, which had accom-
panied them through eo many adventures. They only
retained their clothes and docnments, of all tl.eyhad
once possessed on board the Advance. On the llth
they arrived at Godliaven, where they found their for-
mer friend Mr. Olrik, tlie Danisli Inspector of ITorth
Greenland. Here Dr. Kane first heard of th .• sq '1-
ron under Captain Hartstene, which had be. ii j^/it
out from the United States in pursuit of him, and
learned that it had touched at that spot.

This squadron consisted of two vesselp. the United
States barque "Release," and the United States steam-
brig " Arctic." They had sailed from New York in
June 1855, and on the 9th of July they were at
Lievely on the coast of Greenland. On that day they
resumed their search after the party of Dr. Kane, and
sailed for Waigat Strait, intending to touch atUper-
navick for information. From Upernavick both vessels
stood northward. They soon mot the floating ice
drifting down ; but they persisted in advancing, and
thus Worked along for forty miles to Wedge filand.
Here they were compelled to moor themselves to the
bergs, and await the opening of the ice, vhich had be-
come so compact as to render their immediate ad-
vance impossible. After several days the ice opened,
and enabled them to proceed. They then steamed to
Sugar Loaf Island, and entered tne closely packed
floe of Melville Bay. By the 13th of August they
had forced a passage into the Nortli Water, after
twenty-eight days of laborious sailing. They ther;
passed Cape York and Wolstenholme Island. Kem

DB. KAin& 8 EXPEDITION.

619

hastening on in the steamer, Captain Hartstene Tisited
Cape Alexander and Soutlierland Island. These
points were beyond the reach of the Esquimaux, and
might probably contain traces of Dr. Kane's party.
They were thoroughly searched ; but no evidence ap-
peared that any human foot had ever invaded those
frozen solitudes. Theuce they advanced to Pelham
Point, where they observed u few stones piled together.
A party landed here, and beneath this rude monument
they discovered a small vial with the letter K. cut in
the cork. The vial contained a large musquito, and
a small piece of cartridge paper, on which was written
" Dr, Ka/ne, 1853."

This discovery induced Captain Hartstene to push
further north. The ice however soon stoppea his

E regress ; and drifting southward with the current,
e examined Cape Hotturton and Littleton Island.
But no trace of Dr. Kane was found, though in a for-
mer letter to his brother, he had expressed his inten-
tion to erect a cairn on one of these localities. Fif-
teen miles north-west of Cape Alexander they discov-
ered a party of Esquiraaux, who, three miles distant
on the Greenland .^hore, had a temporary settlement
of seven tents, inhabited by thirty persons. Here
Captain Hartstene found many articles which had be- .
longed to Dr. Kane's party, and which had been left
behind ; such as tin pans and pots, canvas and iron
spikes, as well as the tube of a telescope which was
recognized as having belonged to Dr. Kane.

Captain Hartstene closely interrogated the Esqui-
maux as to their knowledge of the missing company.
From them he learned that Dr. Kane, having lost hia
vessel somewhere in the ice to the northward, had
been at that point with two boats and a sled, and af-
ter remaining there ten days had proceeded south-
ward toward Upernavick. With such conclusive evi-
dence before him Captain Hartstene also determined
to return southward. He touched at Cape Alexander,
Sutherland Islands, and Hakluyt Island. Thence he

■M

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t,!l
) 1

«■

816

PBOOBSSS OF ABOnO dBOOYXBT.

^'l

\ ;

J' ''
I''

. I I
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ii'

steered for the entrance of Lancaster Sound, and ex-
amined the coast between Cape Horsburg and Gape
Warrander. After passing Cape BuUin he found the
ice firmly packed, and the vessols seemed frozen into
their winter quarters. But after twenty-four hours
ttpent in a laoorious attempt to batter their way
through the ice they succeeded ; and after thus ma-
king me circuit of nearly the whole northern part of
Bamn's Bay, they returned toward Possession and
Pound's Bay. Along this whole voyage they con-
stantly fired guns, burned blue-lights and threw up
rockets, with the hope of attracting the attention o:
t r' " anderers. They were disappointed however,
auv. dinff no traces of Dr. Kane s party whatever,
Captain Hartstene concluded that they had passed
through Melville Bay to Upernavick ; and he resolved
at once to follow them thither.

His conjecture was right. On the 11th of Septem
ber, as the Greenland vessel Mariano was about set-
ting out from the port of Godhaven, having Dr.
Kane's party on board, the look-out man at the hill-
top announced the approach of a distant steamer.
Soon she came nearer, having a barq^ue in tow ; and
the immortal stars and stripes floating majestically
at her mast-head. Instantly the Faith was lowered
' from the side of the Mariano, and the party in her
pulled lustily for the approaching vessel. All the
Doats of the settlement hurried after her wake. Pre-
sently the Faith was alongside the Arctic ; and Cap-
tain Hartstene eagerly hailed a little man in a ragged
flannel shirt; "/« that J)r, ICcmef" An affirmative
answer was instantly returned by the* Doctor him-
self; and in a few moments the distinguished naviga-
tor bounded on the deck of his country's ship ; was
received with loud plaudits of welcome by her com-
mander and crew ; and thus he and his party returned
again, as those alive from the dead, to an unfrozen
world of civilization, comfort, and security. Dr.
Kane's labors had not resulted in the dlBCOvery of

1>B. Kane's kxpedition.

617

any traces or remains of Sir John Franklin's party; but it
was the means of securing important additions to geograph-
ical knovvKdge, and valuable acquisitions in botany, mete-
orology, gt;ology, and other departments of science. His
researches have left but little to be obtained by any suc-
cessor in Arctic explorations, however resolute, vigorous,
pud accomplished he may be. , Dr. Kane and his associ-
ates returned to New York in the scjuadron of Captain
Hartstene, on the nth of October, 1855.

[End of Dr. Srmicker's Narrative].

The scientific results of Dr. Kane's expedition are thus
summed up by himself in his report to the U. S. Navy
department : —

1. The survey and delineation of the north coast of
Greenland to its termination by a great glacier.

2. The survey of this glacial mass, and its extension
northward into the new land named Washington.

3. The discovery of a large channel to the north-west,
free from ice, and leading into an open and expanding
area, equally free. The whole embraces an iceless area
of 4,200 miles.

4. The discovery and delineation of a large tract of
land, forming the extension northward of the American
Continent.

5. The completed survey of the American coast to the
south, and west, as far as Cape Sabine ; thus connecting
our survey with the last determined position of Captain
Inglefield, and completing the circuit of the straits and
bay heretofore known at their southernmost opening as
Smith's Sound.

Subsequent Career of Dr. Kane. — His Death, Feb-
ruary 16, 1857.

Elisha Kent Kane was born in Philadelphia, Feb. 3,
1820. When he reached New York at the end of his
second and last expedition in search of Sir John Franklin
he was not quite 36 years old. As he was unquestionably
one of the bravest of the long line of Arctic discoverers — at

518

PROGRESS OF ARTIC DISCOVERY.

H 'I

fir'

,J 1 1

'M !

It'

once the mo^t devoted, cliivalroiis, accomplished and re-
markable of tiiose heroic explorers — it is lit tiiat we should
add here the short story ol his remaining sixteen months of
life, before proceeding with this narrative. To the seeds
of former diseases never fully eradicated, had been added
that terrible scourge of Arctic life, the scurvy, together
with the exhausting litera^ry labors incident to the prepara-
tion of his thrilling narrative of adventures in the frozen
seas, published in the year following his return to the
United States. " 7V/e book, poor as it is, has been my
COFFIN," was his own melancholy comment on its com-
pletion. But his work was not considered " poor " by the
world, nor by the lovers of science ; it excited an intense
interest and drew forth universal eulogy. All classes
were penetiPted and touched by the story so modestly, so
eloquently, so touchingly told. Medals and other costly
testimonials were sent by the Queen of England, (by per-
mission of an Act of Congress), by American Legislatures,
and by scientific associations ; and he received letters of
praise and congratulation from the most eminent men in all
lands.

He left this country for England under a presentiment
that he should never return. It was indeed an alarming
symptom to find that iron nerve which hitherto had sus-
tained him under shocks apparently not less severe, thus
beginiiing to falter ; and yet even then the great purpose
of his life was not wholly abandoned, but he was already
projecting a combined land and sea expedition of research
and rescue, down the Mackenzie River, and through
\ Bering's Straits. But virulent and continuous attacks of
' disease obliged him to give up his plans, to forsake the
honors awaiting him in F^ngland, and to sail for Cuba to
recuperate his strength. There he was joined by his mother
and two of his brothers, and devotedly nursed through a
lingering and painful illness, until his death, at Havana,
on the i6th of February, 1857.

The early fame and remarkable exploits, through a
short but marvellously varied career, of this young martyr
to the miseries of the Arctic seas, illustrate the advantages
of intrepid and intellectual ancestry. On both sides he
could trace his descent in this country to names eminent

SUBSEQUENT CAREER OF DR. KANB.

619

1 and re-
ve should
nonths of
the seeds
en added
together
; piepara-
le frozen
n to the

BEEN MY

its com-
' " by the
n intense
1 classes
destly, so
ler costly
, (by per-
jislatures,
letters of
nen in all

sentiment
larming
lad sus-

^ere, thus
purpose
already
research
through
tacks of

iake the
Cuba to
mother
rough a
Havana,

rough a

martyr

vantages

iides he

eminent

before the American Revolution, being derived in the pa-
ternal line from Ireland, Holland and England, and in the
maternal line from Scotland, England and France, while
the corresponding religions blended in it were the Episco-
palian, Dutch Retormed and Congregational, with the
Presbyterian, Quaker, Methodist and Moravian. His great
grandfather was Colonel John Kane, of the British army,
who came from Ireland to the colony of New York in 1756,
settled in Dutchess County, and there married Miss Sybil
Kent, daughter of Rev. Elisha Kent, of " Kent's Parish,"
N. Y., an aunt of Chancellor Kent. His grandfather,
Elisha K. Kane, was a merchant in New York and Albany,
who married Miss Alida Van Rensselaer, daughter of Gen.
Robert Van Rensselaer, of Claverack, N. Y., and subse-
quently removed to Philadelphia. His father, Hon. John
K. Kane, was a graduate of Yale College, and successively
a member of the Philadelphia Bar, Attorney-General of
the State, and Judge of the U. S. Court for the Eastern
District of Pennsylvania. He was noted as a learned
jurist, an influential statesman, an active promoter of the
arts, sciences, and charities in Philadelphia, an eminent
scholar, and a courtly gentleman. Dr Kane, with a just
pride, wrote these names upon the map of the Arctic seas,
preferring to call a new land or a river, after one of his
own kinsmen, than to christen it for a Washington, a
Franklin, or any other noted name too often repeated in
our geographical nomenclature. The qualities which he
inherited from these ancestors may serve to explain that
rare combination of varied and even opposite elements of
race, of creed, and of culture, which entered into the for^
mation of his character.

He died in the faith of his fathers, with the consolatory
words of the Saviour upon his lips : — *' Let not your heart
be troubled : ye believe in God, believe also in me. In
my Father's house are many mansions ; if it were not so,
I would have told you. I go to prepare a place for you."
Thus passed away this great discoverer. His remains
were conveyed from Havana to New Orleans, and thence
through the western states to Philadelphia, the learned, the
noble, and the good, forming his funeral cortege, until at
length the national obsequies were completed in the Hall

520

PROOBIilSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

V ;

hiti

id'

I'i

vny\>

» ,

of Independence, in the church of his childhood, and at
the grave of his kindred.

The mysterious and icy regions of the North will con-
tinue to attract explorers and to become the grave of
heroes consecrated to the service of science, so long as the
exploits and misfortunes of Sir John Franklin, Dr. Kane,
and their compeers, are remembered and emulated.

Expedition on Captain Francis McClintock, July i,
1857. — Discovery of the First Authentic Account
OF Sir John Franklin's fate. Return of the
" Fox " TO Isle of Wight, September 20, 1859.

In our account of the closing labors of Lady Jane Frank-
lin's life, on page 357, we have mentioned briefly the trip of
the " Fox " under Capt. McClintock. This little vessel
left Aberdeen, July i, 1857. On arriving at Disco, on the
coast of Greenland, McClintock purchased 35 Esquimau
dogs, hired two natives as drivers, and steered for Lancas-
ter Sound. In Baffin Bay, Aug. 17, nearly opposite the
entrance to that channel, she was hemmed in by the ice
for eight months. Moving with the pack, she had drifted
1395 miles to the southward, when the ice left her April 25,
1858. After refitting at Holsteinburg, she arrived in Lan-
caster Sound, July 12, and sailed through Barrow Strait.
Thence she passed northeastward, around North Somerset,
through BelloL Strait, which borders the North American
Continent. On Sept. 27, the "Fox" took up her winter
quarters at Port Kennedy, on the north shore of the Strait.
From this point, Lieut. Hobson made a sledge journey, with
provisions, towards the magnetic pole ; Capt. Young to the
further side of Franklin Strait, and McClintock and Peter-
son traveled southv/ard. March i, 1859, the latter met
near Cape Victoria, a party of Esquimaux, who reported
that several years before a ship had been crushed in the
ice, and sunk in deep water off the northwest shore of
King William Land ; that her crew went off to a great
river, where they all died of olarvation. The natives also
said that a second vessel (Franklin's) drifted ashore at King

BECORDS OF franklin's SHIPS.

521

and at

ill con-

ave of

as the

Kane,

ULY I,
:COUNT
>F THE

Frank-
2 trip of
; vessel
on the
qirimau
Lancas-
ite the
the ice
drifted
pril 25,
n Lan-
Strait.
[nerset,
erican
winter
Strait.
, with
to the
Peter-
r met
orted
in the
re of
great
s also
King

William L.ind, and that the skeleton of one man was
found on board. On the east shore of King William
Land, McCiintock heard that when the "white people
marched toward the Great River, many 0/ them dropped by
the way ; " their bodies were found the next winter, and
some were buried. McCiintock followed the south and
west coast of King William Land and found the first trace
of PVanklin'S crew near Cape Herschel. It was a bleached
skeleton, lying at full length on the beach — some clothing,
a pocketbook, and a few letters. A day's march north-
east of Cape Crozier, about 65 miles from the abandoned
ships, the party discovered a boat and a sledge, in which
were two skeletons, two loaded guns, Sir John Franklin's
silver plate, besides fuel, ammunition, chocolate, tea,
tobacco ?;tc., Lieut. Hobson tracked the north and west
shores of King William Land, almost to Cape Herschel, and
at the most northern point of the island, near Cape Felix,
he came across a ruined cairn and three tents ; two smaller
cairns were afterward found, and on May 6, a large one
was examined at Point Victory. Here, lying among some
stones at the bottom of the cairn, was a tin case contain-
ing a record of the lost expedition, which read as follows :

28 of May, 1847. — H. M. ships " Erebus" and "Terror," wintered
in the ice in lal. 70^5 N., Ion. 98'' 23 W. Having wintered in 1846-7
[this date should be evidently, 1845-6], at Beechey Island in lat.
74^ 43' 2%' N , Ion. 91° 39' 15' W., after having ascended Welling-
ton channel to lot. 77** and returned by the W. side of Cornwallis
Island. Sir John Franklin commanding the expedition. All well.
Party consisting of 2 officers and 6 men left the ship on Monday, 24th
May, 1847. Wm. Gore, Lieut; Chas. F. Des Vceux, Mate.

in a

dif-

Around the margin of the record was written
fcirent hand :

"April 25, 1848.H. M. Ships " Terror " and " Erebus "
were deserted on the 22nd April, 5 leagues N. N. W. of this,
having been beset since 12 th Sept. 1846. The officers and
crews, consisting of 145 souls, under the command of Capt.
F. R. M. Crozier, landed here, in lat. 69° 34' 42 "Ion. 98P 4'
15/ " This paper was found by Lt. Irving under the cairn
supposed to have been built by Sir James Ross in 1831,
four miles to the northward, where it had been deposited by
the late Commander Gore in June 1847. Sir James Ross's

■»■■

522

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

m\ 'N

U t I

pillar has not however, been found, and the paper has
been transferred to tliis position, which is that in which Sir
J. Ross's pillar was erected. Sir John Franklin died on
the nth June, 1847, '^'^^l ^'^^' total loss by deaths in the
expedition has been to this <late 9 officers and 15 men.

James Fitzjamks, C'aplain H. M. S. 'Erebus,'
F. R. M. Crozier, Captain and senior offr. .

And start on to-morrow, 26th, for Back's Fish river."
No further traces of the lost voyagers were found, except
large quantities of clothing and other articles. McClintock
purchased many relics from the natives, with which he
returned to his vessels, June 19. He had completed the
delineation of the north shore of the American Continent,
as well as of Boothia and King William Land; had opened
a new and capacious channel, extending northwest from
Victoria Strait to Parry or Melville Sound, which, at the
suggestion of Lady Franklin, was afterwards named
McClintock channel. His researches also proved Sir John
Franklin to be the discoverer of the Northwest passage ;
for they showed that Sir John passed up Lancaster sound,
explored Wellington Channel; unknown till then, to a point
further north than previous explores had reached ; had
sailed around Cornwallis Island, and wintered at Beechey
Island; that in the spring and summer of 1846, he navi-
gated Bellot Strait, or Peel Sound, and reached Victoria
Strait in Sept., thus completing a chain of water communi-
cation between the two oceans. The Fox sailed for home
on Aug. 9, and reached the Isle of Wight, Sept. 20, 1859.

^if 1

i i

Explorations of Dr. Isaac I. Hayes (Surgeon of second
Grinnell Expedition), i860 — '61.

Dr. Hayes, Surgeon of the " Advance," in Dr. Kane's
second Grinnell Expedition, had traced Grinnell land,
beyond the 8oth parallel, and he now projected a new
voyage to complete the survey of the north coasts of
Greenland, and to find that chimera of so many dreams,
"The Open Polar Sea." For a complete account of his
hazardous journey, the reader is referred to his own book,
by the latter title (New York, 1867.)

DR. HAYES FIRST EXPEDITIOK".

528

He secured contributions, from friends of the enterprise
In New Vork, Phila., lioston and Albany, sufficient to equip
one vessel, the fore-and-aft schooner *' Spring Hill " of 133
tons burthen. Her name was changed by act of Congress to
the " United States." His crew numbered fifteen persons,
Mr. August Sonntag being the astronomer of the ex-
pedition. The outfit of clothing, provisions, and ammuni-
tion was far better than that of Dr. Kane's in 1853, and a
fair equipment for scientific investigation was furnished by
the Smithsonian Institute and the coast survey.

The ship sailed from Boston Harbor, July 7, i860. On
the 30th she crossed the Arctic circle, her average speed
being 100 miles a day. Herr the sun shone full in the
heavens at midnight. On August i, she entered the harbor
of Proven; the fog lifted, and "Greenland, with its broad
valleys, deep ravines, lofty mountains, black and desolate
cliffs, and innumerable icebergs burst into view. " It
seemed," says Dr. Hayes in this interesting book, " as
if we had been drawn, by some unseen hand, into a land
of enchantment ; here was the Valhalla of the sturdy
Vikings, here the city of the Sungod Fryer, — Alfheiur with
its elfin caves, and glitter more brilliant than the sun, the
home of the happy ; and there, piercing the clouds, was
Hinnborg, the celestial mount." At midnight he wrote
in his diary : " The sea is smooth as glass, not a ripple
breaks its surface, not a breath of z'.r is stirring. The sun
hangs close upon the northern horizon ; the fog has broken
up into light clouds ; the icebergs lie thick about us ; the
dark headlands stand boldly out against the sky : and the
clouds and bergs and mountains are bathed in an atmos-
phere of crimson and gold, and purple, most singularly
beautiful. The air is warm almost as a summer night at
home, and yet there are the icebergs and the bleak moun-
tains. The sky is bright, sofv, and inspiri.,j^- as the skies
of Italy ; the bergs have lost heir chilly appearance, and,
glittering in the blaze of the Kdlliant heavens, seem in the
distance like masses of buruished metal or solid flame.
Nearer at hand, they are hugf blocks of Parian marble, in-
laid with mammoth gems of p^arl and gold. The form of
one is not unlike that of the Coliseum, and it lies so far
away that half its height is bijried beneath the blood-r«d

624

PSbGRHSS OD' ARCTIC l5!SCdVERlf.

IfK '

5t; ,

iVi 1

waters. The sun, slowly rolling along the horizon, passed
behind it, and it seemed as if the old Roman ruin had
suddenly taken fire."

At Upernavik, Jensen, a Dane, who had lived ten years
in Greenland, was enlisted as an interpreter, two Danes as
sailors, and three natives as hunters and dog-drivers. Tes-
suissak was made on the 21st, and here Arctic clothing
and dog teams were procured. Melville Bay was entered
on the 23d ; and without encountering much ice, the pas-
sage to Cape York was made in 55 hours. Here Hans
Hendrick, with his wife and babe, joined the party ; he was
also a member of the last Kane expedition. August 26th,
the ship arrived 20 miles south of Cape Alexander, the
entering cape of Smith's Sound, a little further north than
Baffin in 1616, and Ross, in 1818.

In latitude 78<' 17' 41" N., long. 72° 30' 57" W., 20 miles
south of Kane's Harbor in 1854-55, winter-quarters were
prepared in the little harbor of- Hartstene Bay, named by
Hayes Port Foulke. The lowest temperature regis ed
was only — 29**, at Port Foulke ; but at Rensselaer H r,
20 miles further north, Dr. Hayes registered on the ^«aie
day — 68° Fah. In the autumn, Dr. Hayes and Mr. Sonn-
tag made a visit to " Brother John's Glacier " (named by
Dr. Kane after his brother, J. P. Kane, who died in March,
1886,) and made a journey upon it and upon the Mer de
Glace to the eastward, about 50 miles inland. At first, the
surface of this glacier was broken and irregular, but grad-
ually became smooth, with a regular ascent, and the ex-
plorers reached an elevation of about 5000 feet. On Dec.
22nd, Mr. Sonntag started with Hans to visit the Eskimos
at or near Whale Sound, in order to purchase dogs or to
procure from the natives the service of their dog-teams.
On their way, the astronomer, growing a little chilled, sprang
off the sledge, and ran ahead to warm himself by exercise,
but suddenly sank through the thin ice which covered a re-
cently opened tide-track. Hans succeeded in pulling him
up, but he was at the point of freezing to death, and after-
wards died in the snow-hut to which Hans conveyed him.
His body was disinterred from the snow in the following
month, when the thermometer stood at 40 deg. below zero,
and was brought back to the Observatory. A grave was dug

,K)i ,

HATES DK8CUIBUS TUU ARCTIC NIQHT.

525

ouuie

1
a re-

him
ifter-
him.
wing
ro,

dug

in the frozen terrace, where the body still rests. Over it was
chiselled the inscription:—" AUGUST SONNTAG, died
Dec. 28, i860, aged 28 years." In the vestibu4e of the
Dudley Observatory, Albany, hangs a portrait of the young
astronomer ; under it are the sad words, " Perished in the
ice at Port Foulke, latitude 780 17' 14" N,, Dec. 28, i860."

January 16, 1861, Dr. Hayes wrote in his Journal, this
graphic description of his long night in the ice zones:—
"Our eyes now turn wistfully to the South, eagerly watch«
ing for the tip of Aurora's chariot, as the fair goddess of
the morning rises from the sea to drop a ray of gladness
from her rosy fingers into this long-neglected world. It is
almost a »\»onth since we passed the darkest day of winter,
and it will be a long lime yet before we have light ; but it
is time for us now to have at noontime a faint flush upon
the horizon. A faint twilight flush mounting the south-
ern sky to-day at the meridian h-ur, though barely percept-
ible, was a cheering sight to all. We feel that the veil of
night is lifting, that the cloud is passing away, that the load
of darkness is being lightened

"The people have exhausted their means of amusement;
we long for the day and for work. Talk as you will of
pluck and of manly amusement, this Arctic night is a severe
ordeal. It is a severe trial to the moral and the intellect-
ual faculties. The cheering influences of the rising sun,
which invite to labor ; the soothing influences of the even-
ing twilight, which invite to repose ; the change from day
to night and from night to day, which lightens the burden
to the weary mind and the aching body, is withdrawn ;
and, in the constant longing for light, light ! the mind and
body, weary with the changeless progress of the time, fail
to find repose where all is rest. The grandeur of Nature
ceases to give delight to the dull sympathies; the heart
longs for new associations, new objects, and new compan-
ionships ; the dark and drear)' solitude oppresses the under-
standing ; the desolation which reigns everywhere haunts
the imagination ; the silence — dark, dreary, and profound,
becomes a terror. I have gone out into the Arctic night,
and viewed Nature in her varied aspect. I have rejoiced
with her in her strength, and communed with her in repose.
I have walked abroad in the darkness, when the winds

526

moouTCsa of Auciir; discovery.

'^H

11 '<

\.p. ■'

were roaring through the hills and crashing over the plains.
I have wandered far out upon the frozen sea, and listened
to the voice of the icebergs, bewailing their imprisonment;
along the glacier, where forms and falls the avalanche ; up
on the hill-top, where the drifting snow, coursing its way
over the rocks, sang its plaintive song ; and again I iiave
wandered away to the distant valley, where all these sounds
were hushetl, and the air was still and solemn as the tomb.
And here it is that the true sjiirit of the Arctic night is re-
vealed, where its wonders are u!\loosed, to sport and play ■
with the mind. Vain imaginings ! 'I'he hea'cns above and
the earth beneath reveal only an endless and fathomless
quiet; there is nowhere evidence of life or motion ; I stand
alone amidst the mighty hills ; their tall crests climb upward
and are lost in the gray vault of the skies, their dark cliiTs,
standing against their slopes of white, are the steps of a
vast amphitheatre. The mind finding no rest on their bold
summits, wanders into space ; ilie moon weary with long
vigil, sinks to her repose ; the IMeiades no longer breathe
their sweet influences : Cassiopeia and Andromeda and
Orion, and all the infinite host of the unnumbered constel-
lations, fail to infuse one spark of jov into this dead atmos-
phere; they have lost all their tenderness, and are cold
and pulseless. The eye leaves them and returns to earth,
and the trembling ear awaits something that will break the
oppressive silence. l>ut no footfall of living thing reaches
it, no wild beast howls through the solitude. There is no
cry of bird to enliven the scene, no tree among whose
branches the winds can sigh and moan. The pulsations
of my own heart are alone heard in the great void ; and,
as the blood courses throuiih the sensitive or<ranization of
the ear, I am oppressec' as w iih discordant sounds. Silence
has ceased to be negative ; it has become endowed with
positive attributes. 1 seem to hear and see and feel it.
It stands forth as a frightful spectre, filling the mind with
the overpowering consciousness of universal death, — pro-
claiming the f nd of all things and heralding the everlasting
future. Its presence is unendurable. 1 spring from the
rock upon which I have been seated ; 1 plant my feet heav-
Uy in the snow, to banish its awful presence, and the sound
rolls through the night and drives away the phantom.

IIAYKH ON TFIIC UJ'KN POLAR HKA.

527

with
-pro-
isiing

**T Iiavc seen no expression on the face Nature so
filled with terror as tiik sii.knck ok tfik AKf.'Trc ni(;ht."

On ll,c 4lh of A|)ril, iSOi, Hayes, v'li twelve officers
and mci:, started out on Iiis principal sUn' ■"' journey to the
north, will a metallic lile-l)f)at mountcfl on runners. He
was conijiellcd to Ucep If) the eastern shore, and encount-
ered Dr. Ivane's experience wiili ice lunnniocks, so that he
Kent back the ho.ii with llu" main party .md kepi on with
two companions (jiily. With these, he reached the West
coast, entered Kennedy Channel, and on April 16, he
reached lat. <Hi" 35 N., lon^^, 70", 7,0' W., 40 miles further
north, (to which lie j;a.e the name oi Cape Liebcr), than
Kane's highest on the east shore. After a journey, coming
and going, of 1400 miles, and an- absence of 59 days, he
returned to his vessel. Dr. Hayes did not find open water
in Kennedy (Jhann(>l, but inu'di decayed and thin ice, inter-
spersed with [)ools of water — in one, a flock of water-fowls,
the C/ria G/yArc, dovekies. The west coast was lined
with a heavy ridge of ice, with masses 60 feet in height,
lying high :\ud dry upon the beach.

It will be interesting here to quote Dr. Hayes' argu-
ments, in favor of an "Open Polar Sea." In his book to
which we have previously alluded, he cites the three breaks
and the long line of northern coast, through which the
waters of the Atlantic and J^aclfic Oceans enter the north-
ern basin, and says : '' If one traces the currents on the
map, and follows the ('ulf Stream as it flows northward,
pouring the warm waters of the Tropic Zone through the
broad gateway east of Spitzbergcn, and forcing out a re-
turn current of cold waters to the west of Spitzbergen, to
and through Davis Strait, he will very readily comprehend
why in this incessant displacement of the waters of the
Pole by the waters of the Equ;t.or, the great body of the
former is never chilled to wiihin several degrees of the
freezing point : and since it is probably as deep, as it is
almost as Inroad, as the Atlantic between Europe and
America, he will be prepared to understand that this vast
body of water tempers the whole region with a warmth above
that which is otherwise natural to it ; and that the Al-
mighty hand, in the all-wise dispensation of His power, has
thus placed a bar to its congelation ; and he will read In

528

PItOGUKHS OF ARCTIC DlflCOVKRT.

K n

II I'

>!>

thia another symbol of Nature's great law of circulation,
which, giving water to the parched earth, and moisture to
the air, moderates as well the temjierature of the zones-
cooling the Tropic with a current of water from the I' rigid,
and warming the I''rigid witli a current from tiie Tropic.

'* Hearing these facts in mind, the reader will perceive
that it is the surface water only which ever reaches so low
a temperature that it is changed to ice ; and he will also
perceive that when the wind moves the surface water, the
particles which liave become chilletl by contact with the
air mingle in the rolling waves with the warm waters be-
neath, and lienco tii;il ice can only form in sheltereil places,
or where the water of si.me bay is so shoal, and the current
so slack, that it becomes chilled to the very bottom, or
where the air over the sea is un,ifor!nly calm. He will
remember, however, that the wiiuts blow as fiercely over
the Polar Sea as in any other quirt.M' of the world; and he
will, therefore, have no dithculty in crimprohending that the
Polar ice covers but a small part of the Polar water; and
that it exists only where it is nursed and protected by the
land. It clings to tlrj coasts of Siberia, and springing
thence across Bering Strait to America, it hugs the Amer-
ican shore, tills the narrow channels which drain the
Polar waters into IJatlin IJay through the Parry Archipelago,
crosses thence to Greenlaiul, from (Greenland to Spitzber-
gen, and from Spitzbergen lo Nova-Zembla, — thus investing
the Pole in an uninterrupted land-clinging belt of ice, more
or less broken, as well in winter as in summer, and the
fragments ever moving to and fro, though never widely
separating, forming a barrier against which all the arts and
energies of man have not hitherto prevailed

" With the warm flood of the Gulf Stream pouring n'^ th-
ward, keeping the waters of the Polar Sea at a temperature
above the freezing point, while the winds, blowing as con-
stantly, under the Arctic as under the Tropic sky, and the
ceaseless currents of the sea and the tide-flow of the sur-
face keep the waters ever in movement, it is not possible
that even any considerable portion of this extensive sea
can be frozen over. At no point within the Arctic Circle
has there been found an ice-belt extending, either in Win-
, ter or in Summer, more than from fifty to a hundred milea

THE OPK^i* POLAll SKA.

529

from land. And even in the narrow channels separating
the islands of the I'urry ArchipcJaj^o, in Ii.ifiin liay in the
North Water, and in the mouth of Smith Sound, every-
where within the broad area of the Frigid Zone, the waters
will not freeze except wl.crj sheileied by the land, or when
an ice-pack, accumulated by a long continuance of winds
from one quarter, affords the same protection. That the
sea does not close except when at rest, I had abundant
reason to know during the late winter ; for at all times,
even when the temperature of the air was below the freez-
ing point of mercury, 1 could hear from the deck of the
schooner the roar of the beating waves."

In a previous page, we spoke of this cherished idea of
an "open polar sea," as a chimera of the imagination,
which is inconsistent with the rigorous experience of all
who have ventured into that region of death during any
recorded period of the earth's history. On this subject
' Capt Richards, llygdrographer to the Admiralty, and a
a member of the English Expedition under Capt. Nares,
of 1875, says: "The latter-day theory of an open Polar Sea
rests on no foundation, practical or philosophical. Even if
it could be shown that a somewhat higher mean temper-
ature is theoretically due in »liat area where the sun is for
six consecutive months abo\ the horizon, and for a similar
period below it, this would a ' nothings for the dissolution
of the Winter's ice is not dei.eiuicnt on the influenc* of
the Summer's heat alone; otherwise t lie difficulties of Arc-
tic navigation would disappear, at any r (e for some short
period, during every season. A variety of other elements
are equally as important. Chief among them is the a( on
•of the winds and tides to break up the decayii ..'. floes, but
paramount above all others is the necessity t> r sufficient
outlets for the escape of the ice so broken up throughout
the vast area of the Polar basin. These outlets we kr w do
not exist ; an insignificant point of land, morr - r, will
act as a wedge, or the prevalence of an unfavo.aule wind
for a few days at the critical period will suffice to decide
the question whether such inlets, so important as Welling-
ton Channel in Smith Sound, will be cjosed or open during
a season. From a ship's masthead or a mountain summit
the visible horizon is limited by the curvature of the eartli^

.- it-jswtc-nrr,*!

530

PROOKKSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVKUV.

t^r

l: I

and those who have navigated in these regions will well
remember how one short hour has carried them from an
apparently open sea to a dead-lock, with no streak of water
in sight. Walter-skies are delusive ; an insignificant crack
or lane in the ice will produce them, and the only admis-
sible evidence of a I'olynia or navigable I'olar basin must
be the fact that a ship has sailed through it."

Captain Narks himself says, in his Journal, June 22,
1876: — " It would .' iipear that the sun, unassisted by other
causes, is, after a cold winter, not sulhciently powerful to
produce a thaw on a snow-clad ground nntil it attains an
altitude of about 30'*; if this is the case, then at the North
Pole it is doubtful if the snow ever becomes melted."

Capiain FiaLDEN, the naturalist of Nares' expedition,
says: " If there be an extension of land to (he northern-
most part of our globe, I see no reason why a few species
of birds should not resort there to breed. 'J'here would
still be sufficient summer, if such a term may be used, for
the period of incubation ; and from what I have seen of
the transporting {)owers of the wind in drifting seeds over
the frozen expanse cf the Polar Sea, 1 cannot doubt that
a scanty Hora exists at the Pole itself, if there be any land
there, and that the abundance of insect life which exists
as high as the eighty-third degree will be present at the
ninetieth, sufficient to provide for a few knots, sanderllngs,
and turiistones."

The Open Polar Ska of the Future.

!:l

But while the pol.ir regions are indisputably ice-bound
and uninhabitable by civilized men, and must so remain
for thousands of years to come — iIkmc was a period in the
early history of the earth when mild climates prevailed at
the pole — and the hypothesis is equally tenable that in the
revolving cycles of time, so distant in futurity that only the
boldest scientists will presume to compute it at 10,000 to
12,000 years, the icy zones will again enjoy an equable
and life-sustaining temperature. This theory is ably main-
tained by Mr. James Croll in Climate and Cosmology (Ap-

POLAR SKA OF THE FUTURE.

531

pletans), and the following bare outline of his 'views will
not be inappropriate in connection with these speculations
regarding an Open I'ohir Sea.

it is an indisputable datum of geology that at some for-
mer epoch the polar regions enjoyed a comparatively mild
and equable climate, and that places now buried under
permanent snow and ice were then covered with a riv:h and
luxuriant vegetation. Attempts to account for this remark*
able state of things have been made by postulating a
different distribution of sea and land, a change in the ob-
liquity of the ecliptic, and a displacement of the earth's
axis of rotation. The reasons for rejecting such theories
arc set forth at length by Mr. Croll, but passing over these,
we come at once to the explanation which he is persuaded
is the true one. The steps by which he reaches his con-
clusions are the following : The annual quantity of heat
received from the sun at the equator is to that at the poles
as twelve to five, and if the same percentage of rays were
cut oiT by the atmosphere at both places, their temperatures
would differ in the same ratio. As a matter of fact, more
rays are cut off at the poles than at the equator, and con-
sequently the difference in the amount of heat received
!rom the sun is actually much greater. But we may waive
Jiis hypothetical excess of polar cold, because in truth the
pcflar temperature is very much nearer the equatorial than
would be indicated by the ratio five to twelve, and the
problem is to account for this surprising approximation.
The mean difference of temperature ought not to be less
(although probably more) than 2oo'> Fahr., but the ac|nal
difference docs not much, if at all, exceed Sc. But since
this paradoxical increment of heat does not come directly
from the sun's rays, how is it obtained ? Obviously by a
transference of heat from the equator to the poles. But
how was this transference effected ? There were only two
agencies available, to wit, aerial or ocean currents. But
Mr. Croll has demonstrated thg^t the amount of heat con-
veyable from the equator to the poles by means of aerial
currents is trifling; consequently the transference must be
attributed to the currents of the ocean. Yet if it can trans-
form a polar into a temperate climate, the influence of
ocean currents in the distribution of heat over the globe

mfmtlmm

6^2

rnoouKss of Aiumc DiscoVEUf.

.V t

Ift I

must manfcstly linve been hitherto enormously under-ftsti-
mated : .uul it becomes important to determine with .is much
exactitude as jiossible the amount of heat actually being
conveyed northward from the ecjuator by this agency. Now
the only great current whose volume and temperature have
been ascertained with an approach to certainty is the Gulf
Stream. The absolute amount of heat borne northward
by that stream is computed to be more than equal to all
the heat received from the sun within a zone of the earth's
surface, extending tiiirty-two miles on each side of the
equator. Or, in other words, as a little calculation will
demonstrate, the aomunt of equatorial heat carried into
temperate and polar regions by this stream alone is equal
to one-fourth of all the heat received from the sun by the
North Atlantic, from the Tropic of Cancer up to the Arctic
Circle. But there are several other great currents, some of
which, though not yet subjected to as careful mensuration,
are believed to convey as much heat poleward as the Gulf
Stream. Taking into account, then, the influence of the
whole system of oceanic circulation, we can no longer feel
surprised that the difterence of temperature between the
equator and the poles should be reduced from 2000 to 800.
The real cause of former comparatively mild climates in
Arctic regions is thus revealed: "All that was necessasy
to confer on, say, Greenland, a condition of climate which
would admit of the growth of a luxuriant vegetation, is
simply an ncrease in the amount of heat transferred from
equatorial to Arctic regions by means of ocean currents."
No^is any very great amount of increase needed for the
purpose, for "tie severity of the climate of that region is
about as much due to the cooling effect of the permanent
snow and ice as to an actual want of heat. An increase
in the amount of warm water entering the Arctic Ocean,
just sufficient to prevent the formation ^f permanent ice,
IS all that is really necessary ; for were it not for the pres-
ence of ice the summers of Greenland would be as warm
as those of England." The same considerations of course,
point to another result of a converse character. "If a
large increase in the volume and temperature of the stream
would confer on Greenland and the Arctic regions a con-
dition of climate something like that of Northwestern £u*.

MILD CLIMATE IN THK ABCTIO.

688

m,
:e,
;s-

rope, it is obvious thnt a large decrease iti its temperature
and volume would, on the other hand, lead to a state of
things in Northwestern Kurope approaching to that which
now prevails in Greenland. A decrease leads to a glacial,
an increase to an interglacial condition of things."

We are brought next to the inqui'-y, what, according to
Mr. Croll, were the causes of such pregnant changes in the
volume and temperature of the cjeai. currents. His po-
sition is that adequate causes may oe foutxl in physical
agencies, stimulated or checke(i by changes in tlie eccen-
tricity of the earth's orbit, provided the heat-transferring
power of such agencies is suffered to be operative by such
geographical conditions as now exist, and which there is
not an atom of evidence for believing have been materially
altered since the glacial epoch. It is unnecessary to post-
ulate the submergence or the elevation of continents, or
the existence of extra inter-continental channels, transport-
ing northward additional heat currents, and thus contribut-
ing to ameliorate the climate of the pole. The geograpliical
conditions and the physical agencies which actually exist
are amply sufficient to account for all the facts. " When
the eccentricity of the earth's orbit is at a high value, and
the northern winter solstice is in perihelion, agencies are
brought into operation which make the southeast trade
winds stronger than the northeast, and compel them to
blow over upon the northern hemisphere as far probably
as the Tropic of Cancer. The result is that all the great
equatorial currents of the ocean are impelled into the north-
ern hemisphere, which thus, in consequence of the imniense
accumulation of v/arm water, has its temperature raised,
and snow and ice to a great extent must then disappear
from the Arctic regions. When contrariwise, the proces-
sion of the equinoxes brings round the winter solstice to
aphelion, the condition of things on the two hemispheres
is reversed, and the northeast trades then blow over upon
the southern hemisphere, carrying the great equatorial cur-
rents along with them. The warm water being thus wholly
withdrawn from the northern hemisphere, its temperature
sinks enormously, and snow and ice begin to accumulate
in temperate regions."

It will, of course, be noted that, according to this theory,

534

PUOORESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVKBY.

the maximum of cold at the north pole would result from
the coincidence of a maximum eccentricity in the earth's
orbit with the occurrence of winter in aphelion. Mr. Croll
states that the mean interval between two consecutive in-
terglacial periods (corresponding to the time required by
the equinoctial point to pass from perihelion round to per-
ihelion) is not, as is commonly assumed, 21,000, but 23,230
years. At intervals, therefore, of from 10,000 to 12,000
years the north pole will experience the extreme of cold
and the extreme of heat compatible with the coincident
geographical conditions, and with the coincident eccen-
tricity of the earth's orbit, the latter factor being ascertain-
able from Croll's tables.

The final result, therefore, to which Mr. Croll would,
lead us is, that those warm and cold periods which have
alternately prevailed during past ages, are simply the great
secular summers and winters of our globe, depending as
truly as the annual ones do upon planetary motions, and
like them also fulfilling some important ends in the econ-
omy of nature.

The Glacier System,

'5i I

Dr. Hayes' journey over the Afcr dc Glace, and his re
newed inspection of the great Glacier discovered by Dr.
Kane, have been referi ;d to on a preceding page. He
discusses the glacier system of Greenland in his " Open
Polar Sea," where he says : " Greenland may be regarded
as a vast reservoir of ice. U,pon the slopes of its lofty
hil+s, the downy snowflake has become the hardened crys-
tal, and increasing little by little from year to year and
century to century, a broad cloak of frozen vapor has
at length completely overspread the land, and along its
wide border there pour a thousand crystal streams into the
sea. The manner of the glacier growth, beginning in
some remote epoch, when Greenland, nursed in warmth
and sunshine [see Mr. Croll's hypothesis] was clothed
with vegetation, is a subject of much interest to the student
of physical geography. The explanation of the phenom-

THE GLACIER SYSTEM.

585

and

ena is, however, greatly simplified by the knowledge
which various explorers have contributed from the Al^-s, —
a quarter having all the value of the Greenland mounta ns,
as illustrating the laws which govern the formation and move-
ments of mountain ice, and which possesses the important
advantage of greater accessibility. It was easy to perceive
in the grand old bed of ice over which I had travelled,
those same physical markings which had arrested the at-
tention of Agassiz and Forbes and Tyndall, and it was a
satisfaction to have confirmed by actual experiment in the
field the reflections of the study, to be able to make a com-
parison between the Alpine and the Greenland ice."

Dr. Hayes then quotes the conclusion of the Abbd M. Le
Chanoine Rendu, published in the Memoirs of the Royal
Academy of Sciences of Savoy — " That the glacier and the
river are in effect the same ; that between them there is a
resemblance so complete that it is impossible to find in the
latter a circumstance which does not exist in the former;
and as the river drains the ivaters which fall upon the hill-
sides to the ocean, so the glacier drains the ice which
forms from the snows on the mountain sides down to the
same level." And, " the conceiving will of the Creator has
employed for the permanence of His work, 'the great law of
circulation, which, strictly examined, is found to reproduce
itself in all parts of Nature." On this Dr. Hayes com-
ments as follows : " A glacier is, in effect, but a float-
ing stream of frozen water ; and the rwer sysfe?ns of
the Temperate and Equatorial Zones become the gla-
cier systems of the Arctic and the Antarctic. The iceberg
is the discharge of the Arctic river, the Arctic river is
the glacier, and the glacier is the accumulation of the
frozen vapors of the air. Moving on its slow and steady
course from the distant hills, at length it reaches the
sea, which tears from the slothful stream a monstrous
fragment, taking back to itself its own again. Freed
from the shackles which it has borne in silence
through unnumbered centuries, th>s new-born child of the
ocean rushes with a wild bound into the arms of the parent
water, where it is caressed by the surf and nursed into
life again ; and the crystal drops receive their long-lost
freedom, and fly away on the laughing waves to catch once

!!;;

i!!

'!' /

!'' '

t I,

636

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

more the sunbeam, and to run again their course through
the long cycle of the ages."

As the iceberg, its formation, its laws, its uses and ends,
are the most interesting theme suggested by Arctic dis-
coveries, we subjoin the following remarks and obser-
vations, by Mr. Charles Hallock, upon a recent trip to
Alaska : —

THE HOME OF THE ICEBERG.

How THE Outputs of the Great Alaska Glaciers ap-
pear — Watching the Icy Mountains thrown off
BY Heat and Expansion — A Roaring as of Artil-
lery IN the Air — Scenes in Northern Seas

The excursion steamer which makes its monthly trips
from Portland, Oregon, to Sitka and beyond, cruises along
a thousand miles of Alaskan coast. No fewer than five
large glaciers can be seen, including the Davidson, Sum-
down, Patterson, Taku, and Muir. The Muir and David-
son glaciers are spurs or outflows of the same ice field,
which has an unbroken expanse of four hundred miles —
large enough to lay over the whole domain of Switzerland.
The Muir is the ultimate objective point of sight-seers, who
by the time they have become accustomed to the un-
familiar blending of Mediterranean with Alpine scenery so
exclusively characteristic of flie North Pacific coast, are
partially prepared for the astounding revelation which
presently awaits them at the head of Glacier Bay. This
bay is about 120 miles northeast of Sitka, and lies in lat.
59" 40'. It is the most northern point reached on the
trip. Sitka has yet to be visited, but that polyglot settle-
ment occupies a secondary place in the anticipations of
those whose conceptions of a glacier have been inspired by
visions or readings of the Matterhorn or Rhone.

Until a comparatively recent period glacial dynamics
have remained to a certain extent a matter of theory. The
birth of an iceberg is said to be a phenomenon unknown in
Europe. On that continent the glacial force 's almost
spent, and he who would witness the mighty outcome of
its latent power must seek it on the confines of the New

tttE HOME OF THE ICEBBRO.

587

World. He will not find it in the fastnesses of Switzerland.
There the once overwhelming accumulations of snow, which
filled the mountain valleys to the level of their topmost
peaks, no longer supply the glacial streams with material
for bergs. The ice fields have dwindled to insignificant
areas, and their discharge is, for the most part, fluvial,
though much of their bulk is dissipated by evaporation or
absorption into the warm earth of the lower altitudes.
liut in Greenland, which has recently been investigated by
Danish explorers, the ice fields were found to cover the
country liice a pail, for 1,500 miles, from Cape Farewell to
the furthest discovered point, and their breadth is abso-
lutely unknown. Out of the almost interminable waste of
frigid desolation pours the great glacier Sermitsialik, with a
width of from two to four miles, completely occupying the
valley out of which it debouches to the depth of 2,000 feet
or more. It is only one of hundreds of similar frozen
rivers, all of which, as far as is known, are pigmies beside
the great Humboldt glacier discovered by Dr. Kane at the
head of Smith Sound. This is sixty miles in width, with
enclosing walls of rock a thousand feet high. Its front
abuts the sea, and is washed by the waves like any other
coast line.

From these Titanic sources of perpetual supply are emit-
ted those stupendous icebergs which fill the north Atlantic
from June to August to an extent that dozens can be count-
ed from the masthead within the scope of view. The
dimensions of some of them are incredible. I have seen
one off the coast of Labrador which was estimated to be
two miles long and 300 feet high ; and this great mass was
sloughed off entire from the Humboldt sea wall with one
tremendous cleavage, plunge, and surge, as a great ship
leaves the ways. Such mountains of ice are perpetually
falling all along the line, with an intermittent crash and
roar like the tumult of a tempest. The din of the great
commotion can be heard for miles. It is an axiom that
mechanical forces are best comprehended by their pro-
ducts; so that no one can begin to realize what a stupend-
ous factor a glacier is until he sees the measure of its
infinite power thus made supremely manifest.

The glaciers of the North Pacific are much smaller in

»>->%

538

PROGllESS OF AUCTTC DISCOVERY.

!'i;i

comparison, but the Muir is three miles long, with a per-
pendicular face of 400 feet, stretching like a frozen water-
fall or gigantic dam entirely across the head of the bay.
Its breast is as blue as turquoise. At a distance it looks like
a fillet rent from the azure sky and laid across the brow of
the cliff. When the full blaze of the southwestern sun
lights up its opalescence, it gleams like the gates of the
celestial city. I suppose that an iceberg of no insignificant
size is sloughed off from some portion of its sea wall as
often as once in five minutes, but these detachments sel-
dom represent more than a limited section, and most of
them break up into comparatively small fragments before
they are fairly launched on their seaward journey. Visit-
ors are told that glaciers move at a rate of so many feet or
inches daily. Ocular evidence may be obtained by fixed
landmarks, which indicate a stated progression. From the
size and frequency of the cleavages here it would seem
that the progress of the Muir must be several rods a day,
though an estimate can only be approximated, as there is
no true alignment, and the centre moves faster than the
sides.

Long before the steamer reaches the entrance of Glacier
Bay straggling lumps of ice appear dazzling white, and
resting like blocks of marble on the polished sea, which is
scarcely moved by an imperceptible swell pulsating through
the Sound. The sun is warm and grateful, and the sky
without a cloud, excepting those which stretch like filmy
gauze from peak to peak, the temperature perhaps 60° in
the shade. Half of the passengers have never seen an ice
cake and they are eager with excitement to get near the
polar videttes which are drifting by, away off under the
land. The course of the vessel bears gradually toward the
headland at the entrance, and the lumps of ice become more
numerous. Bevies of ladies rush to the taffrail as one of
them passes close under the counter. Presently a passing
promontory opens out a large iceberg of fantastic shape,
and then another, tall and stately, with turrets like a castle.
Sea gulls, hagden and shags hover about their gleaming
walls like snow flakes in the air, or sit in solemn ranks
upon the battlements. Objects change positions constantly
and countermarch across the field of view. Fancies dis*

THK HOME OF THE ICEltEROS.

539

the
the
the

solve before they are scarcely forinctl. Reflections from
Ihe land appear in darksome shades across the water, and
/rom the looming icebergs in tremulous semblances, ghost-
like and pallid. The scenic ettects, al once so magical and
duplicated evei^'where, ;j;ro\v momentarily more wciiil.

Meantime the sleamui slacks her headway, slows down,
and presently with a sullen thud lays alongside a small
berg, whose rounded apex peers up over the dead eyes into
the head of the compinionway, looking for all the world
as if it was going to come aboard. All the curious ladies
pipe a combination scream, and make for the door of the
Captain's stateroom. Then the quarter boat is swung out
of the davits and lowered away, and the stewaf'd and the
mate and the sailors tackle the glistening harlequin with
pikes and axes, and, after much chopping and maneeuvring
with bights and bowlines, contrive to split off a big lump,
and hoist it inboard with a sling. This supply is for the
ice chest. How pure and cold and beautiful and trans-
parent it is ! How precious to passengers who have beei
for two days stinted, and to the steward whose meat was
likely to spoil ! The chunks cut off seem colorless, but
the central core of the berg itself glows like a great blue
eye, sentient and expressive, with ihat sort of poetical light
termed " spirituelle." You never tire of gazing into the
translucent depths of the glacier ice, whose radiance em!i-
lates the blue and green of beryl, torquoise, chrisophas and
emerald. You gaze into them as into the arcana of the
empyrean, with some vague awe of their mysterious source,
and the intangible causes which gave them birth. And the
grand icebergs ! — so cold, yet so majestic, so solid yet so
unsubstantial ; so massive, yet so ethereal ! — whose bast-
ions and battlements are mighty enough to shiver an onset,
and yet so volatile that the warmth of wooing spring will
dissipate them into vapor. Children of the Arctic frost
conceived in the upper air, inspired by the effulgent sun,
and moulded in the bowels of intensest congelation, the
human mind cannot contemplate them without a sympa«
thetic inspiration, for their duplex entity is so like oui
combination of soul and body !

A stiff breeze was blowing as we entered Glacier Bay,
and the breath came bitterly cold from off the ice field*

640

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

1 ! '

The bay was filled with floathig bergs and floes, and the
temperature dropjDed quite rapidly to 46". The ruffled
surface of the water assumed that peculiar tinge of cold
steel gray which landscapes wear in winter. The atmos-
phere put on a sympathetic hue and grew pci^ceptibly denser.
Snow covered all the peaks, and the Mer de Glace spread
out before us like a great white apron on the lap of the
mountain. It is twelve miles from the entrance to the
head of the bay, and over the entire landscape nature
seemed dead. Not a living thing appeared — not a gull on
the wing or a seal in the gloomy fiords. Desolation reigned
throughout, for there was nothing to sustain life. The
creation was all new, and the glacier was still at work grad-
ually preparing it for the abode of organic life. Darkness
only was needed to relegate us to the primordium of chaos.
But the sun was bright on the distant peaks, which enclosed
the bay on all sides, and their intangible, ghostly outlines,
scarcely distinguished from the fieecy clouds about them,
seemed indefinitely beyond the convex line of earth. Sel-
dom is mundane gloom and supernal glory contrasted by
such startling juxtaposition.

As the sieamer neared the glacier, speculations began
respecting the height of its perpendicular front, but no one
guessed higher than the vessel's topmast. It was only
when she lay anchored in ninety fathoms of water, close
under the ice, and not a quarter of a mile trom shore, that
spectators began to conceive the magnitude of the glacier
and ail its surroundings. The glacier wall overhung us
with its mighty majesty, and we seemed none too far away
to escape the constantly cleaving masses which dropped
from its face with deafening detonations. The foam which
gathered from the impetus of the plunges surged upward
fully two-thirds of the height of the cliff, and the resulting
swell tossed the large steamer like a toy, and rolled up in
breakers of surf upon the beach. The vessel was in actual
danger from the fragments of ice which occasionally tlTump-
ed against her sides. Indeed, her wheels were afterward
badly mashed in making her way out of the bay into open
water. A paddle wheel steamer is unfit for such navigation,
and I suppose a propeller will be used hereafter.

The glacier wall is by no means smooth, but is seamed

T€5; HOME OF THE ICEBERGS.

541

and riv^jii in every part by clefts and fissures. It is hol-
lowed into caverns and grottoes, hung with massive stal-
actites, and fashioned into pinnacles and domes. Every
section and configuration has its heart of translucent blue
or green, interlaced or bordered by fretted frost-work of
intensest white ; so that the appearance is at all times
gnome-likt and supernatural. No portion of the wall ever
seems to pitch forward all at once in a sheer fall from top
to bottom, but sections split off from the but'.resses, or
drop from midway or tl)e top. The apparent slowness of
their descent is sublimity itself, because itcarries withitthe
measure of its stupendous vastness and inappreciable height.
Impressions of magnitude and majestv, I opine, are not
conveyed so much by any relative stanrlard of comparison
as by the degree with which we come within the range
of their power or influence. One must realize before he
can appreciate, and he cannot realize fully until he becomes
to a certain extent a participator. Proximity shudders and
trembles at what remoteness and impunity views with dis-
passionate equanimity. I cannot conceive how any one
can sit close by and contemplate without emotion the stu-
pendous throes which give birth to the icebergs, attended
with detonations like explosions of artillery and reverber-
ations of thunder across the sky, and the mighty wreckage
which follows each convulsion. He would hardly be ap-
palled at the crack of dorm. I say we cannot estimate their
magnitude by contiguois objects, because they are all un-
familiar. The steamer iiself, although considerable in size
seems like an atom. Asfor the rest, the fragments of ice
which are seen stranded along the beach, looking no larger
tl^n blocks, measure twelve feet high. Those lumps drift-
ing past yonder fiord are icebergs higher than our top-
mast. Tb'" other side of the bay which, we imagine, oncr
could swii ;j across with ease, is five miles off. The ice
ledge itself is four hundred feet high. The peaks in the
distance, forty miles away, are sixteen thousand feet above
the level of the sea. There is the Devil's Thumb, looking
no higher than the Washington monument, a sheer mono-
lith six thousand feet high, »vith faces almost perpendicular.
The timber line around the feet of the distant ranges
resembles a cincture of moss.

542

PEOGREBfS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

< 1

From a pinnacle of elevation overlooking the Muir ice
field, which is obtained by en arduous half-day's climb,
although some expected to accomplish it in an hour, one
one can count no less than fifteen tributary glacial streams,
any one of which is as large as the great Rhone glacier
ouer which European tourists go into ecstacies. Drawn
from the inexhaustible but annually diminishing accumu-
lations of snow which fill the mountain valleys to a depth
of at least 2,000 feet, these separate streams of plastic con-
gelation unite like the strands of a rope to form the irre-
sistible current of the Muir. The surface of the glacier is
not uniformly level and smooth like a boulevard. It has
its drifts and dykes, its cascades, riffs and rapids like any
unfrozen river. In the immediate front and extending a
mile or more back, its whole surface is the most rugged
formation imaginable. It is utterly impossible for any liv-
ing creature to traverse it, being in fact a compacted aggre-
gation of wedge-shaped and rounded cones of solid ice,
capped by discolored and disintegrating snow. But away
back in the mountain passes it is easily traversed with
sledges or snow-shoes. Indians cross the divide at sundry
places all along the coast from the Stikeen to Copper Riven

Looking afar off into the blank perspective the icy rev
enforcements, which pour out of the piountain fastnesses
like gathering clans, seem compacted into indefinable fleecy
masses, while in the immediate van they pass in review in
serried phalanxes of cowled and hooded monks twenty feet
tall, wrapped in dirty toques and capuchins, snow-powdered,
and bedraggled, and pressing forward with never ceasing
march, as if all the lifelong denizens of the Gothard and
St. Bernard had set out at once to temper their frigid
tongues in the tepid waters which are warmed by the Kuro-
siwo. In other places, where the mer de glace is level like
a plain, its surface is seamed with deep crevasses and
slashed with rifts and chasms whose sides and walls deep
down for sixty feet are dazzling blue. Thus the incipient
bergs are split and carved and chiselled and prepared for
their final segregation, so that they will break off easily
when they reach the front. Meantime the sub-glacial river
which is flowing underneath biloys up the ice and floats it
to the sea.

THE HOME OF THE ICEBERG,

543

one

It is estimated, by soundings made as near as vessels
dare approach, that it is fully eight hundred feet deep.
The water flows beneath the glacier just as it does under
the deposit of a sno'.v-laden roof, forming icicles at the
eaves. To this mighty channel, between its flanking slopes
of rock, the glacier is at last restricted. Evidences are
abundant that it is continually receding. They are scored
high up on the granite walls by the a,damantine ice. They
are attested by the stranded debris of the lateral moraines,
and recorded in the written narratives of Vancouver, who
speaks of his inability to enter this bay in 1793, which is
now navigable for twelve miles inland. Once the ice field
was level with the distant mountain tops ; now it has set-
led, with melting a-nd thaw, until the peaks are far above
the surface. The annual accumulations are dissolving and
diminishing faster than they can be replenished, and cen-
turies hence snow will no longer be perpetual in the val-
leys. The warm hills will throw off their useless mantle,
and nothing will remain of the Muir glacial except a goodly
stream and some tributary rills leaping with a musical ca-
dence from the spring melting among the peaks. The deep
and cavernous gully which now retains the sub-glacial out-
flow of the ice field will become an estuary of the ocean,
and the legend of the Muir will be illustrated in the parti-
colored tapestry which lines the verdant slopes and mead-
ows with flowers and foliage. Perhaps some goodly village
will nestle at the terminal moraine, as it now does in the
Matterhorn among the Alps. Then all the soil deposited
in the valleys and upon the hillsides will tell us of the wear
and tear which even now is grinding down the mountains,
of the denudation, pulverizing, levelling, and filling up of
which the glacier has been the potent agent since the world
began.

Glaciers always carry on their frozen tide great boulders
and masses of stones and rock wrenched from the mountain
sides, just as rivers carry logs and drift. Whatever is not
deposited along its course is carried out to sea by the ice-
bergs to strew the ocean bottom, precisely as we find them
on our V/estern plains, where they were deposited when
the salt waves covered their unlimited expanse. Some
of the lateral moraines (as the dry beds of spent glacial

:r->m«inM>niBi«>iMra»<wasa.>'<a^

544

mOGimSS OP AECTIC DIBCOVEBY.

u ^

■, '.

r •

outlets are termed) are still underlaid by an ice stratum
200 feet thick, which became detached from the main body
of the glacier many decades since. It will take a half century
to melt it. Clambering over these is no child's play. Vi».
itors should be prepared with waterproof angler's wading
trousers and alpenstocks and hobnail shoes, leaving all-top
coats and superfluous wraps where they can be resumed
after the jaunt is finished. Rubber shoes or boots are
liable to be torn to shreds. There are spots, looking like
solid earth, which often prove to be mud holes of uncertain
depth. Boulders are everywhere — boulders, ice, and slimy
silt, or till, and nothing else. Bottomless crevasses head
you off at every turn. To land dry-shod from the boats, is
not easy, on account of the surf.

Altogether, it is astonishing what a minimum of distance
or altitude one can accomplish with a maximum of clamber-
ing and perspiration, even with the chill wind blowing
fresh; for every object sought is at least five times the
distance guessed at, and the road is hard, indeed, to travel.
Nevertheless, the ladies are generally foremost, and old
Swiss explorers will distance all the rest.

It is a consolation and a comfort, when on the apex of
the moraine, with the polar desolation all around, and every
resource of succor or deliverance clean cut off, to look far
down upon the little object which is our only hope — the
steamer, which seems an atom more than ever — and know
that although the bay be filled with floes, there is open
water and safety and genial climate just beyond. By some
trivial accident, possible enough, a party of excursionists
might be left in a situation almost as hopeless as the hap-
less sufferers of the Lena. The perils are precisely the
same, modified only by the relative accessibility of succor,
and therefore too much stress cannot be laid upon the
stanchness of the vessels sent into the ice.

Quite recently the citizens of St. Paul instituted an ice
palace and illuminated it with electric lights, and all the
heavenly planets lent their aid to make it resplendent. At
night when the full moon shone upon its crystal walls
and battlements, and their translucence was reflected, it
looked more like an ethereal creation than one of sub-
stance. It was stately in its magnificence and overwhelm-

m '

DB. HATBS' BETUBN TO BOSTON.

645

the

ing in its supernatural majesty. But what shall compare
with the Muir glacier when the moonlight is upon it, and
all the phosphorescence of the Pacific Ocean beats in bil-
lows of liquid flame against its toppling, crumbling walls ?
when lunar rainbows are tossed in air against the mounting
columns of foam that are shivered into spray by the plung-
ing mountains of ice ? In the everlasting tumult, and whirl,
and crash of explosions which seem to split the glacier
itself from front to mountain source, when nothing at all
takes definite shape upon the ghostly interchange of lights
and shades, one can imagine only the revels of chaos and
the scroll rolled back to the genesis of creation.

Dr. Hayes* Return to Boston.

The summer of 1861 was passed by Dr. Hayes in the
conduct of explorations and surveys in the immediate
vicinity of Port Foulke, Hartstene Bay, which Capt. Nares
characterizes as the best winter station on the North
coast of Greenland. The Eskimos, to the number of 80,
joined the party, living in snow-houses about the harbor,
and hunting the walrus and the seal. On the 14th of
July, the schooner, freed • from the ice, sailed from her
winter harbor, and reached the west coast, e» route for
home. Entering Whale Sound, Hayes delineated the shore
line of that inlet, which he named Inglefield Gulf, out of
respect to the navigator who first penetrated its waters.
He continued down the coast, from Whale Sound, and
obtained dredgings from the various points visited, plants
from several localities, skins and skeletons of the different
mammals, skins of many of the Arctic birds, and also skulls
of Eskimos. Over 200 reindeer were captured by his
hunters. Varieties of walrus and seal were found in
abundance. Continuing southward, he surveyed the
Eastern coast of North Baffin Bay, from Cape Alexander
to Granville Bay, for a distance of 600 miles, and the
western side for a distance of 1300 miles. He then
entered Melville Bay, bored through the *' pack " for 150
miles, to the southern water, and reached Upernavik, Aug.
14, and Disco, Island, Sept. i. The voyage from Godhaven
southward was boisterous, and at Halifax the ship put
into port for repairs. Leaving Plalifax Oct. 14, Dr. Hayes

546

PBOORESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

!'.

arrived with his ship at Boston Oct. 23CI, 1861, after an
absence of 15 months and 13 days. — He visited Greenland
a third time in 1869, in the steam yacht " Panther."
His narrative of this visit was published under the title,
" The Land of Desolation." Again his wonder was ex-
cited by the mighty glaciers and icebergs, and the sites
of the colonies of the old Northmen which he visited.
The " Panther " sailed a thousand miles along the Green-
land coast, penetrated the ice packs of Melville Bay, and
then returned home. Dr. Hayes died in 187 1,

ARCTIC VOYAGES AND DISCOVERIES OF DR.
CHARLES F. HALL.

Dr. Hall's First Expedition in the whale-^hip
*' George Henry," owned by Williams & Haven,
FROM New London Conn., May 29, i860. — His
Second Expedition in the whaler " Monticello,"
Captain E. A. Chapel from New London, July i,
1864. — Traces of Franklin's Men. — Hall's Third
OR North Polar Expdeition, under the auspices
OF the United States Government, in the steamer
"Polaris," from New London, July 3, 187 1.

Shortly after Dr. Hayes left Boston for his Arctic
cruise, Capt. Charles F. Hall, accompanied by the
Eskimo Kud-la-go, who had come to the United States
during the previous autumn in the whaler " George
Henry," left New London, Conn., for his first Arctic voy-
age. He was given a free passage to Northumberland
Inlet in the whaling barque "G'jorge Henry," owned by
Williams & Haven, of New London. His outfit consisted
of a boat 28 feet long ; beam, 7 feet ; depth, 29 1-2
inches. He also took a sledge, 1200 lbs. of pemmican
and meat biscuit, some ammunition and a few nautical in-
struments and thermometers. The ship sailed from
New London May 29, i860, but did not arrive in Hol«
Steinberg, Southern Greenland, until July 7. Before en-
tering the harbor, in lat. 63*^ N., Captain Hall's fellow-
voyager, Kud-la-go, died. After remaining here 17 days
the barque sailed for Northumberland Inlet, where she
anchored at Ookooleen, or Cornelius Grinnell Bay, Aug. 8.

DR. CHARLES y. IIALL's EXPEDITION.

647

The ship encountered at sea heavy snow-storms and ice-
bergs, one of which appeared to Hall's fancy as *' the
ruins of a lofty dome," then, " as an elephant with two
large circular towers on his back, and Corinthian spirei
springing out boldly from the broken mountains on which
he had placed his feet." Again, it was "like a lighthouse
on the top of the piled-up rocks, white as the driven
snow," especially when the sun, after being wrapped in
clouds for nearly a week, burst forth in all his splendor,
" bathing with a flood of fire this towering iceberg light-
house. Many natives visited the barque, and among
them was the wife of Kud-la-go, who shed bitter tears for
her husband's death, and was deeply affected by a sight
of the treasures which he had gathered in the States, for
her and his little child.

Aug. 16, the whalers sailed for a harbor on the west
coast of Davis Strait, to which Hall gave the name of
Cyrus W. Field Bay. On the opposite side of the bay, he
saw some traces of the landings of the expedition under
Sir Martin Frobisher, 300 years before. Here he lost his
boat in a furious gale which wrecked the whaler " Res*
cue," and dashed the " Georgiana " on the lee shore, and
was obliged to confine his explorations within compara*
tively narrow limits.

It had been Hall's purpose, when he set out on this ex-
pedition, to learn the language of the natives, to conform
to their habits of life so far as would be necessary to
harden him for the rigors of Arctic weather, to live
among them, gain their friendship, and awaken their inter-
est in the fate of Franklin's men. He thus hoped to ac-
complish his purpose of rescuing those who might still be
alive. But his westward journeyings were prevented by
the loss of his boat, and he confined his attention to a
study of the people, to observations of natural phenomena,
and to the location of the settlements attempted in the
sixteenth century (1556-1559), by Frobisher. — During the
winter the ice was solid around the ship, Jan. 5, 1861, the
temperature was 60'' below the freezing point, but not
uncomfortable. Between Jan. 10, 1861, and May, 1862,
Hall made several journeys on dog sledges, guided by
" Joe," his wife '* Hannah," and another Innuit woman.

548

PBOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

lU.

Ifi

His researches were interesting, but shed no further lighj
on the geography of the Polar regions. See " Arctic Re-
searches," C. F. Hall, Harper Bros., 1865. We quote
from this volume the natives* mode of building an " igloo,"
or house of ice and snow : — *' They first sounded or ' pros-
pected * the snow with their seal-spears to find the most
suitable for that purpose. Then, one commenced sawing
out snow-blocks, using a hand-saw, an implement now in
great demand among the Innuits for that purpose ; the
blocks having been cut from the space the igloo was to
occupy, the other Innuit proceeded to lay the foimdation
tier, which consisted of seventeen blocks, each three feet
long, 18 inches wide, and 6 inches thick. Then com-
menced the spiraling^ allowing each tier to fall in, dome-
shaped, till the whole was completed, and the key-stone
of the dome or arch dropped into its place, the builders
being within during the operation. When the igloo was
finished, two Innuits were walled in ; then a square open-
ing was cut at the rear of the dwelling, and through this
Smith and I passed some snow-blocks, which we had
sawed out. These Sharkey and Koojesse chipped or
minced with their snow-knives, while Tu-nuk-der-lien and
Jennie trod the fragments into a hard bed of snow, form-
ing the couch or the dais of the igloo. This done, the
women quickly erected on the right and left the fire-
stands, and soon had fires blazing, and snow melting with
which to slake our thirst. Then the usual shrubs, kept
for that purpose, were evenly spread on the snow of the
bed-place over which was laid the canvas of my tent ; and
over all were spread tuktoo furs forming the bed. When
the work had been thus far advanced, the main door was
cut out of the crystal white wall, and the walrus meat and
others were passed in. Then both openings were sealed up,
and all within were made happy in the enjoyment of com«
forts that would hardly be dreamed of by those at home."
The Innuits are such tremendous gormandizers, that
Hall exclaims : " What monstrous stomachs these Eski'
mos have ! •' The quantity (of whale meat) taken on one
day seemed enough for many. Before this whale had
been brought alongside the " George Henry," they had
eaten twenty square fe<»t i»f tike t%iw skin I "

DR. hall's second EXfEDlTION.

549

•lighl
ic Re-
quote
gloo/'
' pros-
: most
iawing
low in
e; the
was to
idation
je feet
I com-
dome-
y-stone
uilders
oo was
; open-
gh this
Ne had
ped of
en and
', form-
ne, the
e fire-
g with
s, kept
of the
|t; and
When
ir was
at and
lied up,
If com«
lome.'*
•s, that
Eski-
m one
le had
;y had

August 9, the whaling season having ended, the
"George Henry " sailed for New London, Conn., reaching
that city Sept. 13, 1862. "Joe " and his wife "Hannah,"
with their child and their seal-dog, accompanied Hall to
the United States, expecting to return with him in a future
expedition to King William's Land. Hall had been ab-
sent two years and three and a half months. He at once
planned a second expedition, in the firm belief that there
were Innuits still living " who knew all about the mys-
terious termination of the Franklin Expedition."

Hall's Second Arctic Expedition. — July i, 1864,
Hall, accompanied by "Joe" and " Hannah," sailed for
the Arctic seas in the whaler " Monticello," accepting
again a free passage from the firm of Haven & Chapell, of
New London, Conn. Entering Hudson Strait July 28, the
ship made for " Resolution Island." She encountered
much floating ice, hummocks and packs, through which
she forced a way. Walruses basked on the ice or swam
in the sea, and on Aug. 3, a fat Polar bear, 8 feet, 5 1-2
inches long, and about 1,100 lbs. in weight, was shot by
Ebierbing ("Joe") with his rifle, at 50 yards distance.
The same day, this Eskimo shot and killed, after twelve
shots, another bear. The ship anchored, Aug. 20, at
" Depot Island," in lat. 63° 47' N. Ion. 89° 51" W. Hire
Hall engaged another assistant, Mr. Rudolph, a whaler;
on the 29th he sailed in the * Monticello's ' tender, " Helen
F," for Wager River, with his three companions, en
route to Repulse Bay and King William Land, where he
proposed to spend several years in search of traces of
Franklin's crevy. Reaching a small harbor, he hauled his
little boat " Sylvia " ashore, and encamped in lat. 64** 35'
N., Ion. 87** 33' W. The party in their little craft now
coasted a shallow stream called " Welcome," for a few
miles, and then met Oiiela and other natives who had
stories to tell about Franklin's lost men. On the assur-
ance of the natives that he could not reach Repulse Bay
that season. Hall decided to pass the winter at his present
tenting place, Noo-wook. Sept. 18 (1864) Hall's Journal
contains this entry : " It has been moving day with us,
and an interesting picture might have been seen — the

■wgs

«50

PBOaBESS OP ARCTIC MSCOVEBY,

fo',r

i^.?f

mm
■1 i'

HH .■ i:

Innuits and the two "Kod-lu-nas" (white men), with packs
on our backs, trampinj; along towards our destined new
home. Old Mother Ook-bar-loo had for her pack a mon-
strous roll of reindeer-skins, which was topped with ket-
tles and pans and various little instruments used by
Innuits in their domestic affairs, while in her hand
Che carried spears and poles and olher things that
need not be mentioned here. Ar-too-a had for his
pack his tent and pole, his gun and et ceteras in his
hand. His wife had a huge roll of reindeer-skins and
other things, much of the character of Ook-bar-loo's.
The dogs had saddle-bags, and topping them were panni-
kins and such varied things as are always to be found in
Innuit use. Ebierbing had for his pack our tent and
some five or six tent-poles, while in his hand he carried
his gun. Charley Rudolph had a large roll of reindeer-
skins, carrying also numerous tent-poles. Too-koo-litoo
had deer-skins, and in her hnnds various things. I car*
ried on my shoulder two rilK and one gun. each in cov-
ers ; under one arm my compass tripod, and in one hand
my little basket, which held my pet Ward chronometer,
and in the other my trunk of instruments."

Hall built an /^''/oo, and prepared to pass the winter.
" I exchanged," he says, " tent for snow-house, and have
been all the while as comfortable as I ever have been in
my life. You would be quite interested in taking a walk
through my winter-quarters ; one main i'g/oo for myself and
Eskimo friends, and three others, all joined to the main,
for store-houses. A low, crooked, passage-way of 50 feet
in length leads into our dwelling. We fully conformed,
After a little, to the habits of the natives, though nause-
ated, at times, by their uncleanliness. The Innuits
amused themselves with playing dominoes, checkers, the
cup and ball, with singing and playing on their key-low-
tik, which is made of a piece of deer-skin stretched over a
hoop of wood or whalebone. Harpooning the walrus was
a frequent diversion. One was killed which weighed
2.200 lbs. These animals are very savage and tenacious
of life. Hall says : " What a horrible looking creature a
walrus is, especially in the face I It looks wicked, detest-
ably bad. * * ♦ A hard death did this one die. He

THE WALBUS — AURORAS.

661

:he
low-

r a
was
hed

lOUS

e a

lest*

fought desperately, but steel and sinewy arms, under the
control of cool, courageous hearts, finally conquered. As
often as he came up to blow he was met by the lance of
the harpooner, who thrust it quick and deep into the heart
and churned away until the walrus withdrew by diving
under the ice and ilippcring away to the length of the
line." The walrus feeds largely on clams, and great
quantities of these are often found whole, but without the
shells, in its paunch.

The party suffered much during the winter for lack of
provisions, and of seal-blubber for light and heat, as their
hunts for this useful polar animal were not often success-
ful until April. It was not until the beginning of May,
1865, that they were able to reach the Wager River, lat.
65" 19', nine months after their supposed landing on that
stream. Thermometer 42** below freezing point. In June
the warm season came on rapidly, and the tupiks (skin
tents) were set up in place of snow-huts for shelter. Dur-
ing the summer Hall's party harpooned a large whale.
They feasted greedily on the flesh, and 1,500 lbs. of bone
were deposited securely by Hall to await the return of the
whalers in the following fall, and w be sold for the main-
tenance of his expedition. Sept. 4th, 1865, Hall en-
camped for the winter on the banks of North Pole River,
near the Fort Hope of Dr. Rae. Deer were numerous,
and nearly 150 were killed and cached for his winter's sup-
ply and his long sledge journey the next season. After
Jan. 27, 1866, none appeared until the end of March,
" when the does that were with young began their migra-
tion."

Speaking of the auroras seen in November, February
and March, Hall asks : " Why is it that the aurora is al-
most always seen in the southern heavens? Why do we
not see the same north of us .^ * * * The aurora is gen-
erally not far distant — ofttimes within a few hundred feet
• — and continues within a stone's-throw of one's head.
* * * The most distant displays do not exceed ten or
fifteen miles." If Hall had been in the parallel of 50" to
62'' he would have seen the borealis as often to the north
as to the south. But further north auroras are seldom
seen except in the south. He describes one that he saw

652

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY,

.1 ,j

B' '•

Feb. 6 : " The rays were all vertical and dancing right
merrily. The whole belt was remarkably low down, that
is, apparently not more than fifty or seventy-five feei from
the earth, and along the base of it, from end to end, was a
continuous stream of prismatic fires, which, with the
golden rays of light jetting upward and racing backward
and forward — some dancing merrily one way, while others
did the same from the opposite direction — made one of
the most gorgeous, soul-inspiring displays I ever wit-
nessed." March lo, the display across the southern hor-
izon was from east-southeast to west- southwest. "The
eastern half was in the form of an arch, with vertical rays,
while the western half was convolved in such vast glowing
circles that nearly a quarter of the heavens seemed on
fire. The eastern half consisted of bosses or birch broom-
heads, springing into life and dancing to and fro along the
vertex of the highest rays forming the arch. To each
broom-head was a complete nucleus, well-defined, about
which the rays, inclined about 45 deg. to the east, played
most fantastically. One was quite alone in its glory, for
not only had it the embellishments of its sister broom-
heads, but golden hair radiated from its head in all direc-
tions."

March 30, 1866, with the temperature at 50® below
freezing, Hall again advanced westward on his sledge
towards King William Land. His route was up the North
Pole River, north 50*^ east. April 13 his friend and
helper, Too-koo-litoo (Hannah) was distracted by the
death of her baby. The party travelled not over two or
three miles a day, reaching Cape Weynton, on the south
side of Colville Bay, about April 28th. The natives
showed him relics of Franklin, recounted the loss of one
of his ships in the ice, and the sufferings and starvation of
his men. Hall obtained a number of relics, a fork and
spoons, having on them the fish-head crest of Franklin.
By Sept., several whalers arrived, and he placed on board
the "Ansel Gibbs " 1,500 lbs. of whalebone, to be sold on
the return of the ship to the United States. Feb. 7, '67, he
set out on a sledge journey with only three natives, to Ig-
loo-hk, to buy dogs for his westward journey. He se-
cured the dogs, but could not find men before March 23,

TRACES OF FAANKXJN^S M£N.

553

ives

[lin.

iard

Ig-
se-

23*

1 868. But instead of goin^ to King William Land, he
was diverted by the natives in search of white men seen
by them three years before on the southern shores of the
Straits of Fury and Hecla. His search proved illusory,
and the principal result of this journey was a survey of the
northwest coast of Melville Peninsula, at and below the
western outlets of Fury and Hecla Strait, and some un-
important discoveries of new inlets, bays and lakes. Dur-
ing the winter of i868, provisions were plenty, especially
walrus, seal and deer. By March 21, he and Jc* had
dried nearly 200 pounds of venison, and fitted them-
selves with new furs. On the 23d, accompani'ed by five
native men, and five females, Hall again started for King
William Land. April 18, they arrived at Simpson's Lake
in lat. 68° 30' 22" N., Ion. 91** 31' W. May 30, they came
across natives, who showed them numerous relics of
Franklin — one, a large silver spoon with an eel's head
crest. Two skeletons were found. These were thought
by the natives to be remains of Crczier's party of 105 men
from the abandoned ships whom they saw journeying
down the west coast near Cape Herschel, with two sleds,
towards Repulse Bay, late in July, 1848. The loss of the
party was ascribed to lacV: of condensed 7rovisions for
their land journey, and of native guides.

Hall now turned his face towards Repulse Bay. The
party killed seventy-nine musk-ox on their way back.
Thus after sledge journeyings numbering more than 4,000
miles, and five years* stay in the frozen seas, Hall made
his preparations to return home. While waiting for a
whaler he got ready nearly 800 pounds of bone from the
whale cached the previous year. On the sale of this bone
and his musk-o.x skins he hoped to retrieve part of the
cost of the long expedition. At last the " Ansell Gibbs "
of New Bedford, Mass., appeared, and took Hall, Joe,
Hannah, and her adopted child, on board. Aug. 29th the
whaler left the Welcome, passed through Hudson's Bay
and Straits, and arrived at New Bedford Sept. 26, 1869.
Here Hall made the last entry in his journal of this voy-
age : " How thankful to high Hejiven ought my poor
heart to be for the blessed privilege of again placing my
foot upon the land of my country I "

554

PROGliESS OF AUCTIC; DISt^OVliRY.

t f

17 ■

Hall's Third KxpKnnioN. — Tlirougli tlio infliience of
Grant, an appropria'.ion of $50,000 was made by Congress,
r.il approved by the President, July 12, 1870, to fit out an
expedition to the North Pole under the command of Hall.
A government steamer, the " Periwinkle," but named by
Hall the " Polaris," was assigned to this service by the
Secretary of the Navy, with a crew of fourteen persons
and the following officers and scientific corps ; C. F.
Hall, commander; S. O. Bui)iN(;roN, sailing master;
George E. Tyson, assistant navigator ; H. C. Chester,
mate; Wm. Morton, 2nd mate; Emil Schumann, chief
engineer; A. A. Odell, assistant engineer; N. J. Coffin,
carpenter ; Emil Bessels, surgeon, chief of scientific staff;
R, W. D. Bryan, astronomer ; Frederick Meyer, mete-
orologist. Hannah and Joe were again Hall's companions.

The " Polaris " was launch^ d at the Washington navy
yard July 25, 187 1, fully equipped at the Brooklyn navy
yard, and sailed for the Polar regions f'-om New London,
July 3. She was provisioned for two and a half years, and
additional suppliji: were to be sen' to Holsteinborg, or to
Disco, by a transport. The " Polaris " anchored in the
harbor of Fiskernaes, Greenland, July 27, at Holsteinborg
July 31, and at Godhavn Aug. 4. Here she was joined
by the transport " Congress," Capt. H. H. Davenport,
U. S. N., with additional supplies which were deposited in
the government storehouse at Godhavn. Aug. 19th, the
Polaris anchored at Upernavik, 225 miles from Godhavn,
which she had made in 33 i-:> hours. Here Hans Hen-,
drik was hired as dog-driver, etc., at fifty Danish dollars
per month. Being now abundantly supplied with dogs
and other essentials for Arctic travel, Hall pushed north-
ward, and sighted Cape York Aug. 25 'h, after a rapid run.
On the 27th her course was arrested by solid packs of ice,
but she continued to bore a way through these ice barriers
until, on the 30th, she could go no farther. The ice ex-
tended from shore to shore, a solid mass, Lat. 82 ^ 26'
N. The " Polaris " drifted back with the current, and
was secured to a large berg. Casting loose from the berg,
and failing to gain a harbor on the eastern shore of Ken-
nedy Channel, the " Polaris " improved every opening in
the ice, and made 12 miles west and north in 4 3-4 hours.

TIIANK GOD HARBOR.

555

The limit of her advance was S?. ^ i6' N. Sept. 14, she
drifted to the soulli 48 miles in a direct line, all the while
dangerously encompassed with ice driven by the wind.
But on the 4th a drivinj^ northeast wind opened a passage
through which the ship forced her way to the eastern
shore and anchored in ten fathoms of water. A huge ice-
berg, 450 feet long, 300 feet, broad, 181 feet deep, Co feet
being above the water, was named by Hall Providence
Berg, as it afforded permanent secvirity to the vessel.
Long. 6i ° 44' W. The coast was covered with moun-
tains running south ;,!;d east, 900 to 1,400 feet high. — Oct.
12, Hall, accompar..ieci by Mate Chester, Joe and Hans,
started on a sledge trip, the object being to select the
best route for a spring excursiofi to the Pole. Nothing was
discoveretl to encourage his purpose. No cattle were
found, and except a few lichens, no signs of vegetation,
until the i8lh, on the top of a high cape, different snecies
of flowering plants and grasses were seen all the way up
the mountain. Oct. 21 he began to retrace his steps, and
on the 24th sighted the masts of the "Polaris." On the
20th he deposited in a cairn his last dispatch to the Sec-
retary of the Navy, which we copy in full : —

Sixth Snow-IIouse Encampment, Cape Brevoort,

Oct. 21, 1871

North-side Entrance to Newman's Bay.

kun.
ice,

[iers
ex-
26'

land

.en-
in
lurs.

To the Honorable Secretary of the U. S. Navy, George M. Robe-
son : —

** Myself and party, consisting of Mr. Chester, first-mate ; my
Fskiii/o, Joe, and Greenland Eskimo, Hans, left the ship in winter
quarters, Tliank God Harbor, hit. 8i"38' North, Ion, 6l'^44' West a^"
meridian of October loth, on a journey by two sledges, drawn b
fourteen dogs, to discover, if possible, a feasible route inland for m^
sledge journ v next sprin;^ to reach the North Pole, purposing to
adopt such a route, if found better than a route over the old floes
and hummocks of the strait which 1 have denominated Robeson's
Strait, after the honorable Secretary of the United States Navy.

" VVe arrived ca the evening of Octob>;r 17, having discovered a
lake and a river on our way; the latter, our route, a most serpentine
one, which led us on to this bay fifteen minutes (miles) distant from
here soutn'vard and eastward.

** From the top of an iceberg, near the mouth of said river, we
could see that this bay, which 1 have named after Rev. Dr. Newraarii

•Mta

^^/

< )

556

t>&00ItI!:S8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

iJ-1'..

!l^

extended to the highland eastward and southward of that position
about fifteen miles, making the extent of Newman's Bay, from its
headland or cape, fuil thirty miles.

"The South Cape is high, bold, and a noble headland. I have
named it Sumner lleadland, after Hon. Charles Sumner, the orator
and U. S. Senator ; and the North Cape, Ikevoort Cape, after I.
Carson Brevoort, a strong friend to Arctic discoveries.

** On arriving here we found the mouth of Newman's Bay open
water, having numerous seals in it, this open water making close
both to Summer Headland and^'Cape Brevoort, and the ice of Robe-
son's Strait on the move, thus debarring all possible chance of extend-
ing our journey on the ice up the strait.

'*The mountainous land (none other about here) will not admit
of our journeying farther north ; and as the time of our expected
absence was understood to be for two weeks, we commence our
return to-morrow morning. To-day we are storm-bound to this our
sixth encampment.

" From Cape Brevoort we can see land extending on the west side
of the strait to the north 22'^ West, and distance about seventy miles,
thus making land we discover as far as lat. 83^5' North.

•* There is appearance of land farther north, and extending more
easterly than what I have just noted, but a peculiar dark nimbus
cloud hangs over what seems may be land, and prevents my making
a full determination.

"August 30, the ' Polaris' made her greatest northing, lat. 82" 29'
North ; but after several attempts to get her farther ncrth, she became
beset, when we were drifted down to about lat. 81 " 30' When an
opening occurred, we steamed out of the pack and made harbor Sep-
tember 3, where the ' Polaris ' is (corner of manuscript here burned
off). Up to the time I and my party left the ship all have been well,
and continue with high hopes of accomplishing our great mission.

" We find this a much warmer country than we expected. Front
Cape Alexander, the mountains on either side of the Kennedy Chan-
nel and Robeson's Strait, we found entirely bare of snow and ice, with
the exception of a glacier that we saw covering, about lat. 80° 30', east
side the Strait, and extending in an east-northeast direction as far as
can be seen from the mountains by Polaris Hay.

** We have found that the country abounds with life; seal», game,
geese, ducks, musk-cattle, rabbits, wolves, foxes, bears, partridges,
lemmings, etc. Our sealers have shot two sens in the open water
while at this encampment. Onr long Arctic night commenced October
13, having seen or'.y the upper limb of the sun above the glacier at
Meridian October 12.

" This dispatch to the Secretary of the Navy I finished this moment
8.23. P. M,, having written it in ink in our snow hut, the thermometer
outside — 7**. Yesterday, all day the thermometer — 20 ** to 23*^.

*' Copy of dispatch placed in pillar Brevoort Cape, October 21, 1871."

[This dispatch was taken from the cairn May 15, 1875, ^Y Capt.
Coffinger of the English Arctic Expedition, and sent to U. S. Govern-
nent by the British Admiralty.]

CAPTAIN hall's DEATH — GBAVB,

667

Captain Hall's Death.

The work of the courageous voyager was finished, and
the objects of the expedition frustrated by his sudden
death. On returning to the " Polaris," Oct. 24, after
drinking a cup of coffee, he was seized with violent vomit-
ing. His left side was paralyzed ; he suffered terrible
pain, and was delirious on the 28th and two following
days. Nov. 6th he had a still more severe attack, from
which he sank into a comatose state, and expired at 3.25
A. M. Oct. 8th. A grave was dug on shore by the light
of lanterns, after two days' hard work, to the depth of 26
inches, and at 11 A. M. Nov. loth, the body was buried,
the funeral service being read by Mr. Bryan. .Amid the
sobs of Hannah, and the solemn silence of the Arctic
night, the indefatigable navigator was left to his long re-
pose in the icy zones which he had loved too well. On
his cenotaph might be inscribed not inappropriately the
lines which Tennyson wrote for the monument to Sir John
Franklin, placed by Lady Franklin in Westminster Abbey
in 187s :—

" Not htre ; the White North has thy bones, and thou^
Heroic sailor soul,
Art passinj? on thy happier voyage now
Toward no Earthly Pole."

In July, 1872, Capt. Hall's grave was visited oy his fel-
low-voyagers, who transported soil to it, surrounded it with
stones, set out a few plants, among which the assistant navi-
gator, George E. Tyson, planted a willow, and erected a
head-board, on which they placed this inscription :—

To the Memory of

C. F. Hall,

Late Commander of the North Polar Expedition, Died

Nov. 8, 187 1. — Aged 50 years.

**! am the Resurrection and the Life ; he that believeth

in me, though he were dead, yet shall he live."

The latter words were added by the mate of the " Po-
laris," Mr. H. C. Chester. The English Expedition of

11 I

558

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY

Iff , "3i

Capt. Stephenson visited Capt. Hall's grave May 13, 1876,
and erected at its foot a brass tablet which haii been pre-
pared in England. It bears this inscription ;

Sacred to the Memory of

Captain C. F. Hall,

Of the U. S. S. "Polaris,*

** Who sacrificed his life in the advancement of science,
Nov. 8. 187 1, This tablet has been erected by the
British Polar Expedition of 1875, ^^^j
following in his footsteps, have
profited by his expe-
rience."

The grave was found undisturbed, and the willow
planted by Mr. George E. Tyson, of the " Polaris," in 1872,
was still alive.

];'.'

THE FATE OF THE POLARIS AND HER CREW.

After Capt. Hall's death the command of the expedition
devolved on Capt. Budington. He still cherished the
hope of hoisting the stars and stripes " on the most
northern f .irt of the earth," but, without realizing this
ambitious purpose, he was doomed, to encounter and to
escape only with his life, a succession of perils which have
made the " Polaris," and the vicissitudes of her crew, a
warning to all subsequent Arctic ex lorcrs. The wiijier
was exceptionally severe. Nov. 18, a northeast gale blew
at the rate of about 50 miles an hour, and it snowed heav-
ily. On the 23d a gale from the southwest broke Provi-
dence Berg, to which the ship was fastened, into two
parts ; the berg moved towards the shore, where it
grounded, with the Polaris in front ; her bow was four feet
higher than the stern when the tide fell, but she righted
when the tide rose. Jan. 16, 1872. the sun at 8 A. M.,
gave tokens of his coming. At first faint, his light in-
creased by Feb. 4th so that any kind of print was readable
in the twilight) and on Feb. aStlJi, "t 1^.15, the whole orb

THE rOLARIS AT mOVIDENCE BERG.

559

appeared after 132 days' absence. The lowest tempera-
ture in December was t,^ ° below freezing, Jan. 9th it was
48 o below zero, February 7 ° to 43 ° 5'. The Scientific
Corps, besides other experiments, noted with great pre-
cision the vibrations of a large brass pendulum, set going
in their observatory.

Various visits of observation had been made to promi-
nent points near by, during the winter. In April, a sledge
journey to Cape Lupton revealed " a vast volume of im-
penetrable pack with not a sjieck of open water," which
was the case until the last of June. The sledge parties
did not penetrate further than the mouth of Newman's
Bay. Mate Chester's boat, with his box thermometer
and other instruments, were crushed near Cape Lupton
by the moving pack. At the end of June the Polaris was
sawed out of the ice, and ventured after the boat parties.
But she found an impenetrable pack near Cape Sumnei
and Cape Lieber, and returned to the Berg. In the first
week of July, the crews abandoned their boats which wera
fast in the ice at Newman's Bay, and walked back to th&
ship. Capt. Budington says in his journal : " I have been
living in hopes that we should get further north, but the
season is so unfavorable, the ice so compact and close,
that * * * it would not be at all advisable, without a
supply of coal, to risk it with a vessel like ours. We must
leave the harbor, for delay now will most probably prove
fatal."

On Aug, II, the ice in the straits was drifting South;
next day the engines were started, the vessel was piloted
between heavy floes, and passed swiftly through the open
water. Entering an impenetrable pack, she was tied to a
floe, and drifted slowly South to Si"* 08.' She lerked
badly, had coal enough to last only four days, and by Aug.
27th the crew had prepared to abandon her. Stil! they
clung to her until Oct. 15th, when at 7.30, p.rn the
♦' Polaris " ran among icebergs, the floe to which she v/as
fastened broke in pieces, and the pack jammed her so that
she was raised up and thrown on her port side. Provi-
sions and stores and the records of the expediiion were
thrown out on the floe, and nineteen of the crew had left
the ship when there was another change in the ice, tlie

i I

li^

&«,<»- ■* ■■

500

PROGEESS OP ABCTIC DISCOVERT.

All

11 .

" Polaris *' broke from her anchors, and was rapidly car*
ried away from the floe. In a few moments the ship dis«
appeared in the black night, while her helpless crew, and
the still more helpless men on the floe, were separated,
never to be reunited on the arctic seas.

Fate of the " Polaris " Party,

The following men were carried away in the ship, 14 in
all, viz., Capt. Budington, H. C. Chester and Wm,
Morton, mates ; Emil Bessels, chief of scientific staff ;
R. W. D. Bryan, astronomer ; Emil Schumann, and A. A»
Odell, engineers ; N. J. Coffin, carpenter ; two firemen,
and four seamen. The leak was alarming, but after much
trouble the steam pump was started, and gained on the
inflowing water. On the morning of the i6th, a clear day,
not one of their comrades on the floe could be seen from
the " Polaris." Soon a northeast breeze broke up the
ice, and the ship had a lane of water to the shore, near
Littleton Island. Here the stern grounded, and she was
secured to large hummocks, her starboard side to the
beach. The men prepared an encampment on shore, and
began building new boats in which to escape to the south.
By May 27th, two were completed, 25 feet long, five broad,
and 2 feet 5 inches deep.

On May 29th, the " Polaris " went adrift, and was car-
ried 200 yards south, where she grounded, her upper deck
at high tide two feet below the surface of the water. On
June 3rd, 1872, the two boats' crews stood down the coast
with a fair wind. On the 4th they landed at Hakluyt
Islands, on the 9th at Norlluimberland Island, and on the
13th at Dalrymple Island. On the 23rd, Mate Chester
descried a ship about 10 miles off. It was the steamer
** Ravenscraig,'* of Kirkcaldy, Scotland, Capt. Allen, who
promptly sent a rescue party. All walked back over the
rotten ice to the ship, where they arrived at midnight.
They were overjoyed with the intelligence brought by
their rescuers that the floe party had been picked up
/loril 30th by the " Tigress." Capt. Allen transferred his
paL,oengers to homeward bound vessels. Sept. 19th eleven
arrived at Dundee in the "Arctic," and at New York

flAW:TY OF THE POLARIS CREW.

66t

Oct. 7th. The " Eric " carried the other three to Dundee
Oct. 22nd, and they reached New York in Nov. 1872.
By an Act of Congress approved June 23rd, 1874, com-
pensation and acknowledgments were authorized to be
made to the owners, officers and sailors of all the relief
ships, and to each of the ten men who walked on the ice
to rescue Capt. Budington's party. The Navy Depart-
ment had sent out the sealing vessel " Tigress," Capt.
Green and the U. S. Steamer " Juniata," Commander
Braine, July 14th, to rescue the officers and crew of
the " Polaris." The " Tigress," in July, landed at the
spot occupied the preceding winter by the ** Polaris "
crew, and brought away all the manuscripts and books not
torn into pieces. Capt. Greer learned from the natives
that the " Polaris " had broken from her hawsers, and
sank. Both ships pursued their search until they learned
of the rescue of the Polaris crew.

Fortunes of the Ice-Floe Party.

Capt. George E. Tyson ; Mr. Frederick Meyer, meteor-
ologist ; the steward, the cook, six seamen, Joe and Hans,
with their wives and children, including a baby born to
Hans two months before, and christened Charles Polaris,
in all nineteen persons, were left on the ice-floe. Some of
these were carried off on broken pieces of ice, but were
brought back by the boats to the large drifting floe. On
this they spent the winter. Their provisions were reduced
by January to the seals caught by the Eskimos, and a
little mouldy bread. The seals were eaten uncooked, "with
the skin and hair on." On New Year's day Capt. Tyson
dined on "frozen entrails and blubber." In Feb. the
thermometer stood 16" to 30° below zero. The sufferings
of the children from cold and hunger, added to the woes of
their elders. The Eskimos are valuable friends to travel-
lers in the ice zones, and their dexterity in finding, and
killing the seaU, .whale, walrus, bear, etc., has saved their
starving white companions in many perilous journeys on
the ice, but it is not always pleasant to bear the company
of their peripatetic households. Yet affection is not frozen
up in their breasts, and unlike their civilized friends, they

- . I M Mlllll l ii j, ^

562

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

8<:s

it 't'
I I

JP'J !

'(.

prefer to encounter their icy enemies accompanied by
their wives and children. But this also had its bright
side for the helpless strangers ; the P^skimo women are
often as brave and useful as their husbands.

On April 30th, the party abandoned the rotten and
wasted floe, and embarked in their only boat, which was
so heavily laden that 100 pounds of meat and nearly all
the clothing were thrown out. In a few hours, however,
the boat was drawn on to the floe again, though the latter
was fast going to pieces. On the iQlh a sea washed over
the floe, carrying away the tent, skins and bed-clothing,
but fortunately none of the party. The men had to hold
on to the boat all night to save it. On the 22d Hans
shot a bear, which he saw coming towards him on the ice.
But for this timely food, the cold, wet, unsheltered, tired
out party must have perished.

At last these wretched voyagers were to experience the
good providence which had, during the previous year, led
them with grateful hearts to call the enforced winter
quarters of the " Polaris " "Thank God Harbor," and the
great ice-mountain that protected her " Providence Berg."
On April 30th a steamer was seen close to the floe. It
was the British steamship " Tigress," Capt, Bartlett, of
Conception Bay, Newfoundland. The latitude of this
fortunate rescue was 53*^ 35' N., off Grady Harbor, Lab-
rador. The whole party were landed at St. Johns, May
i2th, where the U. S. Steamer "Frolic," Commander C.
M. Schoonmaker, took them on board, and carried them
to Washington Navy Yard, June 5th, 1873. They had
drifted on the floe 190 days and 1200 miles, but "even
baby was saved." The Secretary of the Navy, in his re-
port of June 16, 1873, says : " After their rescue, although
enfeebled by scanty diet and long exposure, and mentally
depressed by their isolated and unhappy situation, so
fearfully prolonged and of such uncertain issue, the
general health of these hardy voyagers remained good,
and when their trials and anxieties were qnded, they soon
regained their usual strength."

As to the scientific results achieved by Hall's Expedi-
tions it is the concurrent testimony of American and trans-
atlantic authorities, that it has contributed largely to our

CAPT. HALL AND TUT!! i'Ji^KIMOS.

503

geographical and ethnological knowledge of the Polar
country. The Socicte de GcograpJiic of Paris, awarded
Capt. Ilall a gold medal, as the " promoter-in-chief of the
Polaris Expedition, and as otherwise due him for his pre-
vious labors." And Capt. Sir Gkor(;e Nares, in his
official Report to Parliament of the English Ex])edition of
1875, says: "The co^st-line was observed to be con-
tinuous for about 30 miies, forming a ba) bounded toward
the vilest of the United States range of mountains, with
mounts Mary and Julia, and Cape Joseph Henry, agree-
ing so well with Hall's description, that it was impossible
to mistake their identity. Their bearings also, although
differing upwards of 30 deg. from the published chart,
agreed precisely with his original report." He further
says : " Put for the valuable deposits of provisions es-
tablished by the " Polaris ** at Hall's Rest, Lieut. Beau-
mont would have found the greatest difiiculty in obtaining
supplies."

The knowledge which Capt. Hall obtained of the lan-
guage, habits, religion, pastimes, feelings and social life of
the natives during his five winters in their wretched snow-
huts is the most valuable we have in regard to the Eskimo
race. He says in his Journal: "Nothing but an expe-
rience of years could enable me to control such untamable
eagles." In all this experience, he received unfailing as-
sistance from the friendship and constant watchfulness
of Hannah and Joe. For these faithful friends he pur-
chased a home in Groton, Conn., to which they repaired
after their return from his fatal voyage in the " Polaris."
Hannah died there, of consumption, a disease which afflicts
the majority of her race, on Dec. 31st, 1876, aged 38. In
June, 1878, Joe returned to the Arctic seas with Lieut.
Schwatka, U. S. A., and remained there. The stranger
who visits the cemetery at Groton, will be struck by the
inscriptions on the tombstones In memory of the Eskimos
who have visited or died there: — Hannah, aged 38;
Kod-la-go, July i, i860; Ou-se-gong (Jeannle), July i, 1867,
aged 28; Tu-ke-il-ke-ta, Feb. 28, 1863, aged 18 months,
(Hannah's first child, who died in New "York) ; Sylvia
Grinnell Ebierbing (Punna), born at Ig-loo-lik, July 1866,
died March 18, 1875. The last was Joe's and Hannah's

llMlMi

B »« » ii li l i li pmp n^i ^f!ti0mtimi^:»^

-wsrr"

504

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

adopted daughter, purchased for them by Hall from her
parents, in 1868, by the gift of a sled.

It is time now to turn to several English and German
expeditions which explored the Arctic seas during the
score of years which began with McCIintock's successful
voyage in the "Fox" already related, and ended with
Hall's disastrous search in the " Polaris."

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EXPEDITION UnDER LiEUTS. WeY-
PRECHT AND PaYER — VARIOUS OTHER EXPEDITIONS

FROM Europe. — Nordenskiold.

i> I

In June, 187 1, Lieuts. Weyprecht and Payer, in a small
Norwegian vessel, sailed from Tromso, Norway, into the
Arctic sea to the North of Nova Zembln. They found an
open ocean in which light and scattered ice was the only
impediment to navigation. This expedition reached Lat.
780 41' N. Dr. Petermann, the German geographer, has
stated his belief that Weyprecht and Payer actually pene-
trated inro the open polar sea, and found the entrance of
the best, if not the only water passage to the neighbor-
hood of the Pole — that the Pole can best be reached by
following the course of the Gulf Stream northward between
Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla — and that the warmer
water oS the Gulf current not only keeps the northern
channel free from ice at this point, but is the caise of the
open polar sea. Weyprecht and Payer, in their Austro-
Hungarian Expedition of 1872-1874, discovered a new
land about 200 miles north of Nova Zembla, to which the
name Franz Joseph Land has been assigned. Its south
coast lies about the 8oth parallel, and it was explored by
means of sledges, up to 820 5' N., while land was seen
extending as far as 8^^ north. The Norwegian captains
Tobiesen and Mack confirmed the discovery of open
water by Payer and Weyprecht. Another Norwegian,
Captain Carlsen, discovered the remains of the winter-
quarters established 276 years before — 1594-1596 — at the
N.E. end of Nova Zembla by the Dutch captain William
Barentz, who in his third expedition in search of a north-

VARIOUS EUROrEAN EXPEDITIONS.

565

east passage reached long. looo E. near Icy Cape. Helve
and Smyth sailed to the North of Spitzbergen and found
open water even in lat. 80° 27'. An expedition fitted out
by A. Rosenthal, of Bremerhaven, explored the ocean north
of Siberia. An English Arctic Expedition under Capt.
Nares already referred to in connection with the last
voyage of Hall (who reached, through a strait which he
named Robeson, 82^ 16,') sailed, in 1875, through Smith
Sound, and crossed the highest latitude yet attained, 830
20. In 1875, and again in 1876, Professor Nordenskiold
reached the eastern shores of the Gulf of Obi ; and in
July, 1878, a well-equipped Swedish expedition in the
"Vega," under that veteran explorer, attempted once
more the northeast passage. The party successfully
rounded Cape Chelynskin, and in September were able to
start from the mouths of the Lena for Bering's Strait.
(For a full account of Prof. Nordenskiold's important dis-
coveries on the north of Europe and Asia, down to 1879,
see his work on the voyage of the *' Vega," published in
New York in 1882.*) Thus with numerous attempts to
sail in opposite directions around the northern waters of
Europe, Asia and America, the Arctic regions have been
surveyed to within 8 ° of the Polo^ and we are able to
construct a circumpolar map with measurable correctness.
The northwest and northeast passages have been both ef-
fected, but no clear way for commerce has been, or prob-
ably ever will be, discovered.

*In 1875 Capt. Allen Young, R. N., sailed in the " Pandora ' for
the western coast of Greenland, intending to proceed through Baffin's
Bay, Lancaster Sound and Barrow Strait towards the magnetic Pole,
gnd, if possible, to navigate through the northwest passage to the
pacific Ocean in one season. He adds : "As, in following this route,
the " Pandora " would pass King William Land, it was proposed, if suc-
cessful in reaching that locality in the summer season when the snow
WIS off the land, to make a search for further records and for the
(ou:iiils of the ships ** Erebus " and " Terror." In Franklin Chan-
nel tl " Pandora " encountered at the Roquette Islands, 140 miles from
Point Victory, an impenetrable ice-pack. This defeated the prime ob-
ject^ of the expedition, and it soon returned to Englan4*

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566

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Expedition of Lii:ut. Sciiwatka, U. S. A., in the
EoTHEN," Capt. T. F. Barry, June 19, 1878.

((

Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, of the 3d U. S. Cavalry, ob-
taining leave of absence from regular army duty, fitted out
in June, 1878, by private subscription, the steamer
" Eothen," commanded by Capt. T. F. Barry, with a crew
of 23 men. The " Eothen " was a seaworthy vessel of
102 tons, and was made still stouter with oak planking
I 1-2 inch thick c:'\ her hull, and two feet thick on her
stern, besides 3-4 inch of iron plating. Joe Ebierbing,
who had returned from his polar expedition in the *' Pan-
dora " under Capt. Young, was a member of the party.
The immediate object of Lieut. Schwatka was to search
for the cairns and buried papers of Sir John Franklin's
Expedition, which were rumored to exist in King William
Land. The expedition sailed June 19, 1878. William H
Gilder was second in command. On the 19th of July ice
bergs were plentiful in lat. 59° 54 N., long. 60° 45' W
Aug. 17, the ship reached Whale Point, in an arm of Hud
son's Bay. Here " igloos " were built on shore, in lat
63 o 61' N., long. 60*^. 26' 15" W., where the party passed
the winter to April i, 1879. Schwatka then undertook a
sledge journey of 3,251 miles, occupying eleven months.
Thirteen Innuit men, women and children accompanied
these sledges, which were drawn by 42 dogs, and bore of
supplies, 5,000 pounds. Their course was north-northwest,
over a region hitherto unvisited by white men or Innuits,
May 15th, on a branch of Fish River, they came across a
party of Ook-joo-liks, who gave the usual account of the
missing crews. Schwatka and Gilder soon reached Back's
River, and on June 4 visited a cairn on Pfeffer River, the
one erected by Capt. Hall, May 12, 1869, over the bones
of two of Franklin's men. Many relics were found, the
most interesting, lying on a stone at the foot of an
open grave, a silver medal awarded to Lieut. John Irving,
third officer of the " Terror," bei-ng the second mathemat-
ical prize in the Royal Naval College. The skull and
some bones were picked up, and afterwards sent to the
relatives of Lieut. Irving in Scotland, who buried them
with due honor in his native town. Before leaving Cape

SCHWATKAFINDS RELICS OF FRANKHW.

567

Felix, Schwatka ert ?tecl a monument over Irving's grave,
and buried a copy of McClintock's record left here.
Cape Felix, the most northern point of King William
Land, was reached by the travellers July 3d. For food
they killed the musk-ox, ducks, geese and reindeer, and
<his meat, eaten raw, or as soon as killed, occasioned much
diarrhoea. Cairns were found near the coast; containing
traces of the lost navigators. Lieut. Schwatka took down
a pillar seven feet high, but found no records. He rebuilt
tt carefully, and deposited therein the records of his own
party. The lieutenant, on July 13, turned south, travelling
down the ccast. Tenting-places were found of white men
and natives, a torn-down cairn, an empty grave, and at
eonie distance a skull which appeared to have been
dragged there by wild beasts. Gilder in his narra-
tive says, that " wherever they found graves they always
round evidences that the natives had encamped in the
neighborhood like vultures." — Terror Bay was reached
Aug. 3, on foot, the ice and snow being too soft for sledg-
ing. Sept. 19, a permanent winter camp was formed on
Simpson's Strait. Reindeer in large herds were seen, and
supplied the party with meat. But by Oct. 14, this supply
of food gave out. Dec. 10, the journey south was con-
tinued, and, owing to a lack of food, became a constant
struggle irbr life. Several times the hunters barely escaped
death frohi hungry wolves. The reindeer flesh was eaten
raw, and find to be *' sawed into small bit3 and thawed in
the mouth. * More than half of the dogs died. One snow
storm lasteti 13 days. The thermometer fell to 69 ° below
zero in Dec, averaging — 50 ° F. Jan. 3d it was — 71 ° .
The lowest temperature in Feb. was loi ° below the
freezing point. March 4, Schwatka got back to Depot
Island, but found that Capt. Barry had left no provisions
there. He dien started for Marble Island, where, on the
21st of March, 1880, the whaler "George Henry" was
boarded, Capt. Gilder first reaching the ship.

This extraordinary winter journey was the longest and
most successful of any ever recorded. Capt. Gilder thus
sums it up : —

" During the year that we were absent from the verge of civilization,
as the winter harbor of the whalers may be considered, we bad travelled

508

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

'fT^^.'

liV

,/'0r^

two thousand eight hundred and nineteen geographical, or three thou,
sand two hundred and fiftvone statute miles, most of which wa over
unexplored territory, constituting the longest sledge journey ever made,
both as to lime and distance, and the only extended sledge Journey
ever accomplished in the Arctic, except such as have been made through
countries well known and over routes almost as thoroughly established
as post-rrads. (Jur sledge journey stands conspicuous as the only one
ever made through the entire course of an Arctic winter, and one re-
garded by the natives as exceptionally cold, as the amount of suffering
f ^countered by those remaining at Depot Island attested, and further
confirmed, as we afterward learned, by the experience of those who
wintered at Wager River, where many deaths occurred, attributable to
the unusual severity of the season. The party successfullv withstood
the lowest temperature ever experienced by -white men in the field, re-
cording one observation of — 71 degrees Fah., sixteen days whose aver-
age was one hundred degrees behnv the freezing point, and twenty-
s.ven which registered below — 60 degrees, during most of which the
party travelled. In fact the expedition never took cold into consider-
ation, or halted a single day on that account.

"During the entire journey, its reliance for food boch for man and
beast may be said to have been solely upon the resources of the coun-
try, as the expedition started with less than one month's rations, and
it is the first in which the white men of an expedition voluntarily lived
exclHsi7'cly upon the same fare as its Eskimo assistants, thus snowing
that while men can safely adapt themselves to the climate and life of
the Eskimos, and prosecute their journeys in any season or under such
circumstances as would try the natives of the country themselves.

" Tlie Expedition was the first to make a summer search over the
route of the lost crews of the ' Erebus ' and * Terror, and while so
doing buried the remains of every member of that fated party found
above ground, so that no longer the bleached bones of those unfort-
unate explorers whiten the coasts of King William Land and Adelaide
Peninsula as an eternal rebuke to civilization, but all have, for thp time
being at least, recei* ed decent and respectful interment.

*' The most important and direct result of the labors of the expe-
dition will undoubtedly be considered the establishing the loss of the
Franklin records at the boat place in Starvation Cove; and as evet
since I^r. Kae's expedition of 1854, which ascertained the fate of the
party, the recovery of the Records has been the main object of sub-
sequent exploring in this direction, the history of the Franklin expc
dition may now be considered as closed. As ascertaining the Tate of the
party was not so gratifying as would have been their rescue or the
relief of any number thereof, so it is in establishing the fate of the
record of their labors. Next in importance to their recovery must be
considered the knowledge of tlieir irrecoverable loss. . . .

*' The excellent management of the Commander, Lieut. Schwatka,
secured his party from many of the usual misfortunes of those in the
field, and deprived the Expedition of the sensational character it might
have assumed in other hands. Every contingency was calculated upon
and provided for beforehand." — *' Schwatka's Search, Sledging in the
Arctic ill quest of Franklin Records." (Charles Scribner's Sons. 1881.)

HUNTING THE MtTSK-O*.

669

The chief resource of Lieut. Scnwatka's party in this
memorable overland journey from the waters of North
Hudson's Bay to Back's Great Fish River (which empties
into the Arctic Ocean just south of tlie large island known
as King William's Land), especially as food for their nu-
merous and voracious dogs, were the musk-cattle that are
sparsely distributed in small herds over that desolate re-
gion. Lieut. Schwatka's account of the manner in which
the natives hunt t.^is remarkable animal, is so novel and
interesting that we make the following extracts from his
article in the "Century Magazine " of Sept., 1883 :—

After some two or three hours of wandering around in the drifting
mist, guiding our movements as much as possible by the direction of
the wind, we came plump upon the trail, apparently not over ten min-
utes old, of some six or seven of the animals now probably "doing their
level best " to escape. The sledges were immediately stopped and the
dogs rapidly unhitched from them, from one to three or four being
given to each of the eleven men and boys, white or native, that were
present, who, taking their harnesses in their left hands or tying them
in slip-nooses around their waists, started without delay upon the trail.
The dogs, many of them old musk-ox hunters, and with appetites
doubly sharpened by hard work and a constantly diminishing ration,
tugged like mad at their seal-skin harness lines, as they half buried
their eager noses in the tumbled snow of the trail and hurried their hu-
man companions along at a flying rate that threatened a broken limb or
neck at each of the rough gorges and jutting precipices of the broker,,
stony hill-land. The rapidity with which an agile native hunter can
run when thus attached to two or three excited dogs is astonishing.
Whenever a steep valley was encountered the Eskimos would slide
down on their 'eet, in a sitting posture, throwing the loose snow to
their sides like escaping steam from a hissing locomotive, until the
bottom was reached ; then, quick as thought, they would throw them-
selves at full length upon the snow, and the wild, excited brutes would
drag them up the other side, where, regaining their feet, they would
run on at a constantly accelerating gait, their guns in the meantime
being held in the right hand or tightly lashed upon the back.

The foremost hunters began loosening their dogs to bring the oxen
to bay as soon as possible ; and then, for the first time, these intelli-
gent creatures gc ve tongue in deep, long baying, as they shot forward
like arrows, and disappeared over the crests of the hills amidst a per-
fect bewilderment of flying snow and fluttering harness traces. The
discord of shouts and bowlings told us |)lainly that some of the animals
had been brought to bay not far distant, and we soon heard a rapid
series of sharp reports from the breech-loaders and magazine guns of
the advanced hunters. We white men arrived just in time to see the
final struggle. The oxen presented a most formidable-looking appear-
ance, with their rumps firmly wedged together, a complete circle of
swaying horns presented to the front, with great blood-shot eyeballs

I ;

I •■!

ill

670

PBOOBE8S OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

glaring like red-hot shot amidst the escaping steam from their pant!ng
nostrils, and pawing and plunging at the circle uf furious dogs that
encompassed them. The rapid blazing of the magazine guns right in
their faces — ao close, often, as to burn their long shaggy hair — addeO
to the striiting scene. Woe to the over-zealous dog that was unlucky
enough to gei iiis harness line under the hoof of a charging and infuri-
ated musk-ox; for they will follow up a leash along the ground with
a rapidity and certainty that would do credit to a tight-rope performer,
and either paw the poor creature to death or fling him high in the air
with their horns.

Too-lo6-ah, my best hunter, — an agile, wiry young IwilHk Eskimo of
about twenty-six, with the pluck and endurance of a blooded horse, —
and half the dogs pressed onward after the scattered remnants of the
herd, and succeeded in killing two more after a hard run for three
miles. The last one he would probably not have overtaken if the swiftest
dog, Parseneuk, had not chased him to the edge of a steep precipice.
Here a second's hesitation gave the dog a chance to fasten on the
ox's heehi, and the next second Parseneuk was making an involun-
tary aerial ascent, which was hardly finished before Too-lo&-ah had
put three sh-,.''a from his Winchester carbine into the brute's neck and
head, vhereupon the two animals came to earth together, — Parseneuk
on the soft snow at the bottom of the twenty-foot precipice, fortur»ately
unhurt. Parseneuk was a trim-built animal that I had secured from
the K inrepetc.o Eskimos who inhabit the shores of Chesterfield Inlel
being one of the very few tribes of tiie great Eskimo family, from thi,
Straits of Belle Isle to those of Behring Sea, who live away from th»
sea-coasts ; Ins pointed ears peered cunningly forth in strange con-
trast with the many other dogs that I have met, whose broken and
mutilated ears showed plainly the fights and quarrels in which they
had figured.

The chase finished, the half famished dogs received all thejr could
eat, — their first full feast in over three weeks, — and afier loadmg the
two sledges with the remaining meat and a few of the finer robes as
mementos and trophies, we returned to our morning's camp, a distance
of five or six miles, which we travelled slowly enough, our over-fed
dogs hardly noticing the most vigorous applications of the well-ap-
■ plied whip.

The Eskimos with whom I was brought in contact never hunt the
musk-oxen without a plentiful supply of well trained dogs; for with
their help, the hunters are almost certain of securing the whole herd
unless the animals are apprised of the approach, as they were in our
encounter with them. When the flying herd has been brought to
bay in their circle of defense by the dogs, the Eskimo hunters ap-
proach within five or six feet and make sure of every shot that is fired,
as a wounded animal is somewhat dangerous, and extremely liable to
stampede the herd.

Lieut. Schwatka and his party arrived home in good
health Sept. 22d, 1880. Schwatka, by act of Congress
approved Aug. 7, 1882, was allowed full pay during hift

DELONG AND THE JEANNETTE.

571

absence from March 5, 1878, to Oct. i, 1880, together
with mileage from Dakota Territory to New York, and
from New York City back to Vancouver Barracks, Wash-
ington Territory. The Geographical Society of Paris
awarded to Lieut. Schwatka its fifty-fourth annual gold
medal given to explorers. M. de L(5sseps in presenting it
to the representative of the U. S. Legation, said : " Be
pleased to forward this medal to your courageous country-
man, with the expression of our esteem for him and his
companions. We hope also that the Gordon Bennetts,
the Lorillards, and the other Mecaenases of science in the
United States will accept the acknowledgments addressed
to them by our prize commission, and cordially concurred
in by all their associates." — Thus, Kane, Hayes, Hall and
Schwatka, each received this valued medal from the So'
a'/// de Gtfogmphie.

Lieutenant G. W. DeLong's Expedition in the
" Jeannette," formerly the " Pandora," pur-
chased FOR HIM BY James Gordon Bennett.

Lieut. DeLong, U. S. N., had been sent by the Navy
Department in the " Juniata," to the Greenland coast in
search of Capt. Hall's party of 1873, and had then, doubt-
lest% imbibed the Arctic- Exploring fever. In 1876, having
been promised assistance by Mr. Bennett, he obtained
from the Navy Department leave of absence, and visited
England in search of a suitable vessel. Here he fixed
upon the " Pandora," of 420 tons burthen, which had
already made two Arctic voyages under Capt. Allen
Young, R. N. Mr. Bennett purchased this vessel, and she
was equipped in the yhip-yard at Deptford, and shipped
her crew at Cowes. DeLong sailed for San Francisco by
way of the Horn July 15, 1878, and arrived there Dec. 27.
Lieut. J. W. Danenhower, U. S. N., joined him as execu-
tive officer for the cruise. In Feb., 1879, by act of Con-
gress, the Government of the U. S. accepted the " Jean-
nette " from Mr. Bennett for " a voyage of exploration."
It was DeLong's intention, as he wrote, to " attack the
Polar regions by the way of Bering Straits, and if our ef-

T"T

572

TBOaUKSS OF ABCTIO DISCOVEBY.

forts are not crowned with success, we shall have made an
attempt in a new direction, and examined a hitherto un«
known country." [A true prophecy !]

The " Jeannette " was repaired by the Commandant of
the Navy Yard '.t Mare Island, San Francisco, under the
direction of a Board of Naval officers, at an outlay of
$100,000. Yet a second Naval Board reported to Com-
modore Calhoun, June 26, 1879, that "while she had been
repaited and placed in condition for Arctic service, so far
as practicable, it was not possible in the opinion of the
Board to make her particularly adapted for an extended
Arctic cruise." But Lieut. DeLong, after leaving^ San
Francisco,. wrote to Mr. Bennett: "She is everything I
want for the expedition, but a little small for all I want to
carry in her. * * Our outfit is simply perfect, whether
for ice or navigation, astronomical work, magnetic work,
gravity experiments, or collections of Natural History.
We have a good crew, good food, and a good ship ; and I
think we have the right kind of stuff to dare all that man
can do."

The crew consisted of 32 persons, volunteers : Geo.
W. DeLong, Lieut. U. S. N. commanding; Charles W.
Chipp, Lieut. U. S. N., DeLong's associate in the cruise
for Hall, July, 1873, executive officer; John W. Danen-
hower, \J. S. N., master ; the other names will appear in
the course of the narrative- Lieut. DeLong received in-
structions from Secretary Thompson, June 1879, on reach-
ing Bering Strait, to " make diligent inquiry at such points
where he deemed it likely that information could be ob-
tained concerning the fate of Prof. Nordenskiold (of the
" Vega ") ; if he had good and sufficient reasons for be-
lieving Nordenskiold was safe, he would proceed on his
voyage ; if otherwise, he would pursue such a course as
would be judged necessary for his aid and relief."

The "Jeannette" steamed out of the harbor of San
Francisco July 8, 1879. She reached Ounalaska Island
Aug. 3. At St. Michael's, her next anchorage, DeLong
purchased forty dogs, and engaged two Indian hunters and
dog-drivers — Anegguin and Alexai. The " Jeannette "
was too deeply laden to move rapidly. The schooner
"F. A. Hyde," with coal and extra stores, arrived from

NORDHNSKIOLD AND THE VEOA.

678

ints
ob.
the
be-
his
as

nei

San Francisco An?. iJUh, and followed the "Jeannette"
to St. Lawrence ]i;iy, which both vessels reached on the
25ih, encountering on the way terrible gales. The sea
swept over the decks of the ** Jeannette,' stove in her for-
ward parts, carried away the bridge and caved the bulk*
heads. When the ship got om clear of land into Bering
Sea, the water was so shallow that a very ugly sea was
raised during a gale that lasted thirty hours. Here a na-
tive chief told them that he had been on a small steamer
three months before ; DeLong felt convinced that this was
the "Vega" of Nordenskiold, though when last heard
from the latter was at Cape Serdze Kamen, 130 miles
distant. On the 27th he took a northwest course toward
Bering Strait. On the 3olh, Lieut. Chipp landed at the
Cape, lat. 67° 12' N., and learned from an old squaw
that the " Vega " had wintered on the east of Kolintchin
Bay, and then gone south. The party on the 31st landed
on the bay, and satisfied themselves by the pajDers and
relics found, that this was true. On the 6th of Sept. the
steamer was hemmed in by ice. DeLong wrote in his
Journal: "I am hoping and praying to get the ship into
Herald Island to make winter-quarters. As far as the eye
can range is ice, and not only does it look as if it never
had broken up, but it also looks as if it never would." It
did not. On the 8th, in lat. 71 o 35' N., 175 o 5' 48" W.
the "Jeannette" was stopped by solid floes, and the ice-
anchors were planted. She was held tight as a vice, and
drifted to the north and west. Oct. 3d the drift changed
to the south, and Herald Island was in sight to the south-
southeast. On the 28th, in 71° 57' N., 177° 51' W.
DeLong saw one large island with three peaks, which he
believed to be the north side of Wrangell Land, which he
now felt sure was not a continent, but " either one large
island or an archipelago." The night of the 28th is de-
scribed by DeLong : " The heavens were cloudless, the
moon very nearly full and shining brightly, and every star
twinkling ; the air perfectly calm, and not a sound to break
the spell. * * Standing out in bold relief against the
blue sky, every rope and spar with a thick coat of snow
and frost," the ship " was simply a beautiful spectacle."
Nov. nth the moving ice is thus described: "Masses

674

PBOORESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

i:'f

hV-!\

from 15 to 25 feet in height when up-ended, slid along at
\*arious angles of elevation and poise, and between and
among them were large masses of debris like a marble--
yard adrift." The last of Nov. the ship went adrift in a
gale, but at 7 P. M. was frozen in solid in some young ice.
Danenhower's Journal says : " We reckoned that she
had drifted at least 40 miles with the ice in her immediate
vicinity On one occasion I stood on the deck-
house above a sharp tongue of ice that pressed the port
side just abaft the forechains, and in the wake of the im-
mense truss that had been strengthened at Mare Island
by the earnest advice of Com. Wm. H. Shock. The fate
of the " Jeannette " was then delicately balanced, and when
I saw the immense tongue break and harmlessly underrun
the ship, I gave heartfelt thanks to Shock's good judg-
ment. She would groan from stem to stern ; the cabin-
doors were often jammed so that we could not get out in
case of an emergency, and the heavy truss was imbedded
three-quarters of an inch into the ceiling. The safety of
the ship at that time was due entirely to the Miss."
DeLong says : " A crisis ma" -^ ^e at any moment. . . .
Living over a powder-mill, w, •• for an explosion, would
be a similar mode of exist^ucj." Jan. 14, 1880, the ice
began to move to the eastward ; the Hoes were piled under
the stem, breaking the fore-foot. The ship leaked ; the
water was 18 inches deep in the fore-peak, and 36 inches
in the fore-hold, and in the fire-room ran over the floor-
plates on the starboard side. On the 2 2d, at noon, the
thermometer was — 37°. DcLong's state of mind is thus
described : " My anxieties are beginning to crowd on me.
A disabled and leaking ship, a seriously sick officer
[Danenhower, upon whose left eye, inflamed and nearly
blind, the surgeon had performed several painful opera-
tions] and an uneasy and terrible pack, with the constantly
diminishing coal-pile, and at a distance of 200 miles from
the nearest Siberian settlement — these are enough to think
of for a lifetime." — The steam pump gained on the water
in the ship, on Jan. 27th pumping out 2250 gallons per
hour. Nindemann and Sweetman, two of the crew,
worked 14 hours per day stuffing plaster-of-paris and ashes,
which soon diminished the leak in the berth deck 450

POLAR GATEWAY A DELUSION.

675

gallons per hour The sun reappeared Jan. 26th, and
after 71 days' comparative darkness, there was sunlight
or moonlight all the time. On the 6th of March the
"Jeannette" was in lat. 72^ 12' N., long. 175** 30' W.,
her drift was zigzag ; on the 30th, she occupied a position
almost identical with that of four months previous. A
walrus was shot, and used for dog food, which weighed
about 2800 pounds. — DeLong says, regarding the Arctic
currents : —

" A drift of 5 i miles to South 38" K. The irony of fate ! How long, O
Lord? How long ? As to there being any warm current reaching to a
high latitude, we have found none. I am inclined to agree with
Lieutenant Weyprecht, when he says, 'The Gulf Stream does not
regulate the limits of the ice ; but the ice, set in motion by winds, re-
gulates the lin^its of the warmer Gulf Stream water ; and I pronounce
a thermometric gateway to the Pole :\.<h'lnsioft and a snare.' (^f course,
if any warm current came through liering Strait, it would be the
Kuro Siwa, and our sea teni|)eraturcs have indicated no such fact."
Lieut. Danenhower says: "The important point of the drift is in the
fact that the ship traversed an immense area of ocean, at times
gyrating in almost perfect circles, her course and the observations of
her officers proving that land does not exist in that area, and estab-
lishing many facts of value as regards the depth and character of the
ocean bed and its temperatures, animal life, etc. It is matter of
lasting regret that the two thousand observations of Lieut. Chipp, an
accomplished electrician, especially upon the disturbances of the gal-
vanometer during auroras, as recommended to be made by the Smith-
sonian Institution, as well as the meteorological observations of Mr.
Collins, perished with the lamented young officers in the wreck of
their boat on the Siberian shore. "

A windmill pump was constructed by George W. Mel-
ville, asst. engineer, Alfred Sweetman, carpenter, and
Walter Lee, machinist, which took the place of the Sewell
steam pump, and saved the fast-diminishing coal. At the
close of May the ship was 190 miles northwest of Herald
Island. On the 30th of June, after nine months' drifting,
the ship was in lat. 72° 19' 41 ' N., long. 178** 27' 30" E.
She was heeling 4° to starboard. The thermometer had
risen to 37" below freezing.

August 17th, DeLong has this entry: "Our glorious
summer is passing away : it is painful beyond expression
to go round the ice in the morning and see no change
since the night before ... High as our temp, is (34**)
foggy weather a daily occurrence, yet here we are hard and

> i!

676

PBOORBSS OV ABCTIO DISCOTBBT.

ftuf,

6'/

wii'^

i; > ■

d' ■

fasti, with ponds here and there two or three feet deep . ,
Does the ice never find an outlet ? It has no regular

set north, south, east, or west, so far as I can

judge, but slowly surges in obedience to wind-pressure,
and grinds back to an equilibrium when the pressure
ceases. Are there no tides in this ocean ? . . . The ice is
as immovable as a rock. It is hard to believe that an im-
penetrable barrier exists clear up to the Pole, and yet. . •
we have not seen one speck of land north of Herald
Island." By Sept. i, the ship was on an even keel, but
immovable. More water came in, and even should she
float, there was too much fear that she would sink, in
which disastrous event the ice floes were an uncertain
refuge. DeLong sadly says : " I can conceive no greater
forlorn hope than to attempt to reach Siberia <f^er the ice,
with the winter's cold sapping one's life at ever step!"
He thus describes the winter night : — " Imagine a moon
nearly full, a cloudless sky, brilliant stars, a pure white
waste of snow-covered ice, which seems .^rm and crisp under
your feet, a ship standing out in bold relief, every rope and
thread plainly visible, and enormously enlarged by accumu-
lations of fluffy and down-like frost feathers ; and you have
a crude picture of the scene .... but must experience the
majestic and awful silence which generally prevails ....
and causes one to feel how trifling and insignificant he is in
comparison with such grand works in nature. The bright-
ness is wonderful. The reflection of moonlight from
bright ice-spots makes brilliant effects, and should a stray
piece of tin be near you, it seems to have the light of a
dazzling gem. A window in the deck-house looks like
a calcium light when the moonlight strikes it at the proper
angle, and makes the feeble light from an oil-light within
seem ridiculous when the angle is changed." Lieut.
Chipp, on Dec. 27, at 3 A. M., described " a bright auroral
curtain about lo** above the horizon from east-southeast
to northwest, generally white, but occasionally showing a
green shade, and, rarely, a brownish-red color, which dis-
appeared as soon as seen. Above this curtain the sky
was of a deep blue-black, through which the stars shone
brilliantly, as they did also through the deepest part of the
curtain. Above the deep blue-black were irregular

TBE JEANXBTTB SINKS IN 88 FATUOUS. 577

spirals and streaks of white li^ht, in continuous motion
appearing and disappearing rapidly. From cast to west,
through the zenith, was an Irregular arch formed of de-
tached streaks of brownish-red light, among which white
hght would suddenly appear, atid as suddenly vanish.
This arch was 5** broad. Stars shone with apparently
undiminished brilliancy through the deepest color." —
DeLong's Journal, especially, exhibits unwavering resigna-
tion to the behests of Providence. J?\n. i, i88i, he wrote :
" I begin the new year by turning over a new leaf in this
book, and I hope to God we are turning over a new leaf
in our book of luck. I am thankful for our preservation
among many perils.'*

On the i6th of May, 188 1, an island was discovered by
Ice-Master Dunbar. DeLong, exclaims : "Fourteen months
without anything to look at but ice and sky, and twenty
months drifting in the pack, will make a little mass of
volcanic rock like nnr island as pleasing to the eye as an
oasis in the desert." On the 17th the ship was in lat. 76**
43' 38" ; long. E. 161° 42' 30". The '' Jeannette " drifted
past the north side of the island so rapidly in the broken
pack that a landing was not attempted. It was named
*' Jeannette." On the 24ih another island was seen dis-
tant about 15 or 20 miles, and on the 31st Engineer Mel-
ville, with five seamen, and a fifteen dog t<;am, set out to visit
it. On June 3d they landed, hoisted the American flag,
and named the island Henrietta ; a cairn was built and a
record put in it. The island was a desolate rock sur-
rounded by a snow cap, with glaciers on its east face.
The only signs of life were dovekies on the cliffs. De-
Long thanked God for this little speck of newly-discovered
land ; his longing heart had to be satisfied with his rare op-
portunities to contribute something to our knowledge of
the earth. But his perils on the icy and unknown deep
have a lurid attraction which is lacking to the savage
islands to which the United States cannot assert her claim
of sovereignty.

On the 13th of June, 1881, came the long threatened
catastrophe to the ship. On the 12th, at midnight, the
whole pack was alive, and she was set free by the split of
the floe on a line with her keel. The ice commej^ced com-

578

PR0GRK88 OP AKCTIC DISCOVKllT.

ing in on her side, with a hissing, crumbling sound, and at
3.40 1\ M. it came through the starboard coal bunkers.
Tiie ship heeled more than 20" to starboard ; her bows
were high in the air, showing the injury to her forefoot
made Jan. 19, 18S0. The order was given to leave the
vessel ; chroni)inetcrs, ritles, ainnumition, and whatever
couKl be saved, were thrown on tlie Hoe. DeLong was
everywiiere, seeing that all things went on smoothly and
quietly, without the least haste or consternation. The
first and secoml cutter, and whale-boat were lowered, and
at 1 1 p. m. the ship's i);irty of 3,^ men pitched their tents,
six in number, on the (loe. JJut this Hoe was breaking up,
and another was sought about 400 yards from the ship in
lat. 77^ 14' 57" N., long, 154^ 5S'45" K. At 4 A. M.,June
13, the ice which had helii togetlier the " jeannctte's "
broken timbers gave way, ami with her colors Hying at
the mastheatl, she sank in t^'^ fathoms of loater.

Eight of the " Jeannette's " crew were sick with lead
poisoning from tomato cans, and this delayed the start
southward until June 17. It was 350 miles to Siberia, 1500
miles to Yakoutsk, 6500 miles to St. Petersburg 1 A cheer-
ing prospect, indeed ! yet the men kept up their spirits.
Ships cannot contend with the /vrctic Seas, but men hope
and strive as long as they retain available life ! They had
of provisions, 5000 pounds of American pemmican (dried
and cured or pulverized meat) in canisters, about 1500
pounds of other canned goods, and 1500 pounds of bread,
ammunition, 5 boats and 9 sleds. To carry along these
necessarv articles the men had to go over the road six times
back and forth until the latter part of June, when the snow
was melted — then they could bring forward their equipage
in four loads, or seven journeys. At first they travelled
thus 26 miles to make only two. But this advance was
delusive — for, on the 23d, DeLong's observations proved
that they had lost 27 miles by the drift to the northwest
in excess of their progress south ! July 28th a landing was
made on an island in hit. 76^ 38" N., long. 148" 20" E.
which DeLong named " Bennett Island," and the south,
cliff " Cape Emma." The island is of volcanic origin, and
is composed of trap, feldspathic and igneous rock, " with
silica," says Dr. Ambler, *' caught up in it in masses ;

1500

-y

hope
had
(dried
1500
3 re ad,
these
times
snow
lipage
veiled
was
oved
hwest
g was
o" E.
iouth,
J, and
►* with
iisses 9

TtlRIR LAHT HOAT JOUUNEY.

579

trap-rock with globules of silica, about the size of a pea,"
which " receive a bright polish from the finger, and are
soft enough to be cut with a knife." Again the starry
flag was unfurled, and possession taken of the island in
the name of the I'resident of the United States. All
these newly discovered lands have since been entered on
the charts of U. S. Ilydrographic Office, as the " DeLorig
Islands." Numerous birds, fit for food, so tame as to
be easily knocked down, were found. On the east side
were several grassy valleys. Lieut. Danenhower brought
home geological specimens, and Dr. Ambler gathered
amethysts, opals, and petrifactions, which, alas ! he was not
destined to bring home. The party left the island Aug. 6th.
After drifting along the north coast of Thaddeus Island,
about the middle of the month they gained navigable
water, and took to their boats. Capt. DeLong, Surgeon
Ambler, Mr. Collins, and eleven of the crew, took the first
cutter ; Lieut. Chipp, Mr. Dunbar, and six of the crew,
the second cutter; Engineer Melville, Lieut. Danen-
hower, and eight of the crew, the whale-boat. Sept. loth
the Asiatic coast was in sight ; the boats landed on Sem-
enovski Island, and parties were sent out hunting. Foot-
prints of a civilized boot were found in a deserted hut.
Sept. 1 2th the three boats again took the water, and in
the midst of a great gale from the northeast, at 7 P. M.
lost sight of each other, and parted forever. The whale-boat
was saved only by the use of a drag, and incessant bailing.
The second cutter commanded by Lieut. Chipp, was doubt-
less swamped by the sea, as she has never been heard from.
She was a bad sea-boat, and her dimensions were much
less than either of the other boats, being but i6i
feet in length, depth 2i feet; while the first cutter was
20J feet, and the whale-boat 25^ feet long; depth of each
two feet two inches. The tirst cutter was fitted with
mast and one shifting lug-sail, pulled six oars, and
had the greatest carrying capacity of the three boats ; all
the boats were clinker-built,, copper-fastened, inside
lining.

The Whale-Boat, Sept. 15, entered one of the eastern
mouths of the Lena, pushed up the river, and on the 26th
reached a small village, where a Siberian exile, Kopelloff,

oeo

inSOQBBSS ON ARCTIC DISCOVERT

;;it;

L i

taught Lieut. Danenhower Russian phrases. Oct. 17th,
Danenhower, with a dog-team, explored the coasts without
success, for the missing boats. On the 29th he received
word that two of DeLong's men, Nindemann and Naros,
were met on their way to Bolun, in a -starving condition.
Food was sent to them by Engineer Melville. Danen-
hower proceeded by deer-sled 600 miles to Verchoiansk,
and with oxen, horses and deer 640 miles further to
Yakutsk, which he reached Dec. 17, 1881 ; thence he
went forward in accordance with a dispatch to Melville
from the Secretiry of the Navy, to Irkoutsk, where he was
assured by a Russian oculist that his eye would soon be
well. Not being permitted on account of his health, to
search for the survivors of the "Jeannette," he turned
over this duty, with all the documents, to Lieut. G. B.
Harber and Master W. H. Schuetze, who had been sent
out by the Navy Department for this purpose. He then
travelled to St. Petersburg, arriving there May i, 1882.
He reached New York City June i, accompanied by Ray-
mond L. Newcomb, naturalist and taxidermist ; John
Cole, boatswain, (whose mind was affected, and who is
still in the government Insane Asylum at Washington), and
the three Chinese sailors, Charles Tong Sing, Ah Sing,
and Ah Sam, who were of the " Jeannette " party. The
rest of the whale-boat's crew had arrived Feb. 12, 1882.

DeLong's Boat, as heretofore stated, lost sight of the
whale-boat and second cutter, Sept. 12, 188 1, — the first
being ahead and the latter behind it. His journals thus
record his rough experience in the gale and on shore : —

*• Step of mast carried away; lowered sail and rode to sea anchor ;
very heavy sea, and hard squalls. Barometer falling rapidly.

'* 13th, very heavy northeast ga ... At 8 P. M. set a jury sail
made of a sled cover, and kept the boat away to the westward before
the sea ; — 17th grounded at a few hundred yards, landed at 8 P. M, :
dark and snowstorm, but Collins had a good fire going ; at 10.20 haa
landed everything, except boat oars, mast, sled, and alcohol break-
erJs ; — 18th, had fires going all the time to dry our clothes; we must
look our situation in the face, nnd prepare to walk to a settlement

*• September 19, ordered preparations to be made for leaving this
place, and as a beginning, all sleeping bags are to be left behind. Left
in Mistrument box a record, portions of which read thus :

Lena Delta, Sept. 19. 1881. — Landed here on the evening of the 17th,
•lid will proceed this afternoon to try and reach, with God's help, a

•>B10N0', tAST /otTHKAI,.

WttJement, the near*»Bf ^r i • . * ^-^

S'g:;^--if ^^^ Sol- 1 ^]j-7 ^^h"&^^

I^oads^ too Ve;v^ l^^ ""^"^ ^^ead, and at 4 S'? of getting through'
Knckson, J}„yd ^~ '^" "'u^ "1^-Lee gro,^ .^,"I'P^;I «'«! camped
^{»ch of no u2 'Road Ud' ^''^.'^'"'rS- '^^Tl'^.l 'o ^L^r"l"-.'»'nfeS
'''Ily up to the kiiPP? ! iJreaking throu.di f^ w. ^^*^'-*" """"tcs

«'er to^ deposit^rogWs'' '"^'-'-"-'n 3 v aS '/??t'*'"-
feeling in his tof-Q o 1 " * ^' ^ery one of n/Jl ^' ^"'' ^^res-

terribfe week in fh '' "/'"« "^ "« eve h flf w ' '"" /° ^^^^ Josf all

we are at tiie end »/ ^ "'^^ '^ '""•'^t suffice f 7 f . ' y^'' ""'" '^st can

- the forty) unless Pr„vn'' '""^>«io".s and n^st Zt Z fy^}^'^^ then

dog is eaten--.?? f '^^'^'dence sends sonietC in *" ''"fi 'he Jast of

reindeer.' and i„ Te L^ ^'i'^' ^'?^ ^'^^^'-J^ sa?d ' C ul^- ' ^^V^ ''""'^k

«e„,hs of a pt^toi ^'L'i 5-°S hall .IJ?' b IkfcVT ' T"-'
bring nir a fiixi k,.„i J Pemmican, . . Atn^r _ ^'^'''*'— -'our-four-

tenth^daVfromS-,^,r.'^^^^^^ 4 n^li^T^o T ^'^ '." ^^"'P-

gone conclusionlhati !,''"'',• ^'"'^'kson isTio be^t.V ^^ ■"^'•ed and
and one of his eft TuTT^ ^°"^ ^""'- of t e to^fof?"^ "• ''^ « ^ore-
after breakfast. forlunateL''"';?'' ^^^'"'"enced sSL^^" '■'fi'^' f«ot,
Partofthefoo L S -^/y'thoutpaintothe nS f^^V^^^ ^""'^
cutting awav nf L. " ""' 't W'-is a henrf rL ' ^ "^"t, for the forward

fiound and "Lie ffvf. "^ ^^'^'^ "f a man S"t^ u^'^'^i ^° »"«. the
cutting of poSrESksonw"^'- ^^toTe? ,"" 'h^ .^''^P^d 'o return
And where are we ? 5 Ih" . '^' 'his mornin; «nJ„ '""^ ''^sumed the
'ast. My chart^s c- ?'"^' ^' the hcjrinnL -^ ""^ too left now
areproceedinJfn '"'"P'y "^^less J Sf 1 ' ^ ""^'he Lena River at
the Lena Rive? ' n ?T '^ *^^ ^^^^'t s d/ o ^S"^ ■» 'he hut that 4
ordered him Wju,?"^"H^';3. 'Nothing remillK^.r^f "^ttlement on
stew made of suih ^"'' ^'''^ssed by !v^j-son . !i^ ^''^ ^"^- ^ therefore
««ept the doctor Pr'""''^""'^' "ot £'«'?"/ soon after a kind of
'^ess. . . Er.Vtl ^""^ "lyself eagerlv xvirt? \!^^' ""^ ^hich everybodv
^l- -ccompan^^^;;;°on became^IeU.ro .T'^,';;, %;:',^- a nauseaHn^
the night entlZl ° ^''^ ^^i-etchcdness of 1 ^''"''"K ^as a horri-

582

PBOGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

8.4^ A. M.,our messm.Trte Erickson departed this life. October 6, as
to burying him 1 cannot dig a grave, the ground is frozen, and I have
nothing to dig with. There is nothing to do but to bury him in the
river. Sewed him up in the flaps of the tent, and covered him with
my flag. Got tea ready, and with one-half ounce of alcohol, we will try
to make out to bury him. Bat we are all so weak that I do nut see
how we are going to move.

** At 12.40 P. M. read the burial service, and carried our departed
ship-mate's body down to the river, where, a hole having been cut in
the 'ice, he was buried ; three volleys from our two Remingtons being
fired over him as a funeral honor. A board was prepared with this
cut on it: — " In Memory, H. H. Erickson, Oct, 6th, 18S1. U. S. S.
Jeannette." And this will be stuck in the river bank abreast his
grave. His clothing was divided up among his messmates. Iverson
has his Bible and a lock of his hair, Kaock has a lock of his hair. . .
Supper, 5 P. M., half a pound of dog meat and tea. October 9, sent
Nindeman and Naros ahead for relief ; they carry their blankets, one
lifle, forty pounds of ammunition, two ounces of alcohol. . . Under
way again at 10.30, had for dinner one ounce of alcohol, Alexai shot
three ptarmigan. Find canoe, lay our heads on it and go to sleep.

" loth, eat deer-skin scraps. . . Ahead again till eleven. At three
halted, used up. Crawled into a hole on the bank. Nothing for
supper, except a spoonful of glycerine. 17th, Alexai died, covered
him with ensign, and lair' him in a crib. 2Tst, cnc hundred and thirty
first day, Kaock was fc/und dead at midnight. Too vve?.k to carry the
bodies out on the ice; the doctor, Collins, and I carried them around
the corner out of sight. Then my eye closed up. Sunday, October
23, one hundred and thirty-third day, everybody pretty weak — slept or
rested all day, then managed to get enough wood in before mirk.
Read part of divine service, suffering in our feet. No foot gear.

"Monday, Oct. 24., 130th day. A hard night.

*• Tuesday, Oct. 25, 135th day. No record.

" Wednesday, Oct. 26 136th day. No record.

"Thursday. Oct. 27, 137th day. Iverson broke down.

*' Friday, Oct, 28, 138th day. Iverson died during early morning.

" Saturclay, Oct. 29, 139th day. Dressier died during the night.

" Sunday, Oct. 30, 140th day^ Boyd and Gortz died during the
night, Mr. Collins dying."

Here DeLong's journal ends — the last words he ever
wrote. His death, no doubt, came next — then the sur-
geon's (Dr. James M. Ambler), and the last of the crew,
Niudemann and Naros only being saved. Oct. 9th, they
had been dUpatched by DeLong to Kumack-surka, sup-
posed to be 12 miles off — for assistance. On their way
south, they killed one ptarmigan, and foimd a few fish —
otherwise their food consisted of boot soles soaked and
burnt to a crust, parts of their seal-skin pants so treated,
willow tea, and burned deer bones found in a hut. Dys-

DELONG AND PAUTY FOUND DEAD.

633

entery weakened ihem daily. On Oct. 22d, they vveredis*
covered by the natives, who fed them, and drove on deer
sleds to Bulun, the most northern Russian settlement in
Siberia, where they arrived with the sick and exhausted
seamen Oct. 29. Here Naros wrote to the American min-
ister at St. Petersburg, but his letter was sent to Engineer
Melville, who joined them Nov. ^d, got all the details of
DeLong's route, suffering and present location, and ar«
ranged for immediate relief to the hoped-for survivors of
the two boats. To the telegram which he sent to the Sec-
retary of the Navy at Washington, which had to go the
long journey to Irkutsk by couriers, and did not reach
Secretary Hunt until Dec. 22, he received this reply: —
" Omit no efforts, spare no expense in securing safety of
men in second cutter. Let the sick and the frozen of
those already rescued have every attention, and as soon
as practicable have them transferred to milder climate.
Department will supply necessary funds." Melville mean-
time had searched the northern extremity of Lena Delta.
He found DeLong.'s cache, marked by a tall flag-staflf, on
the shores of the ocean, and secured his log books, chro-
nometers and other articles. He continued his search for
three weeks without result, and then went to Yakutsk
Dec. 30, to arrange for a more extended exploration.
March 16, with Nindemann, and Bartlett, a fireman of the
" Jeannelte," he found the hut where, before crossing the
river, DeLong and his comrades had slept ; on the 23d he
found the ten men, dead ! Four poles and a Remington
rifle that projected above the snow, revealed their resting
place. The bodies of DeLong, Surgeon Ambler, and Ah
Sam, the Chinese ^ jk, the last of the party to die, were
found a few hundred y-ards away. DeLong's sad note-
book, already quoted entire, was by his side ; his volu-
minous records and books were under the poles. The
bodies were frozen to the ground under the snow bank,
and were pried loose, borne over the mountain to a high
bluff, Tjlaced side by side in a box, and buried. A stone
pyramid and cross 22 feet high, cross-arm 12 feet in
length, was placed over the graves, and on it were re-
corded ti • names of the twelve dead men of the first cut-
ter. Alcxai's body was not found ; Erickson had been

684

<t«66Bfi6S C* ABOTIC tttSCOVfittlr,'

y ' '

buried by DeLong, as his journal states, in the river. Mr.
Newcdmb, speaking in his narrative of the torhb and
tnonumeht, says : " Standing as they do on an eminence,
they are conspicuous objects, and may be seen at a dis-
tance of '20 hiileis."

Lieut. Melville and his party examined the sea-coast of
the Delta, the north coast of Siberia, and the mouths of
the rivers-^but no trace of Lieut. Chipp's cutter or party
could be found. He then left Bartlett with Lieut. Harber
with a chart of his search, and returned by way of Ir-
kutsk, with Nindemann and Naros, to New York, Sept.
13, 188^.

Lieut Harber and Mr. Schuetze searched the Delta
thoroughly, but no trace of Lieut. Chipp was discovered.
On June 23, 1S83, Lieut. Harber in a letter to Secretary
Chandler, described his rembval of the remains of Lieut.
DtfLong and party. He travelled from Yakutsk Jan. 26th,
with Mr. Schuetze, a Cossack interpreter, and some natives
with reindeer and dogs, 2667 miles, to Mat-Vai, near the
tomb, where he arrived March 2. He removed the bodies,
rebuilt the tomh^ and returning to Mat-Vai, made arrange-
Riertts with the government physician for preserving the
bodies in their frozen condition in temporary caskets lined
with sheets of pure tin. At Orenburg the bodies were to
be transferred to the metallic coffins sent from the United
States for their long journey home. March 29, after a
severe journey, the thermometer falling on one day to
**-69 ° F., Yakutsk was reached with the bodies. Dec. 21,
1883, the remains were carried to Irkutsk and borne in
procession through the streets, escorted by a body of
troops. In Feb., 1884, they were brought to New York
City, and honored with suitable obsequies.

The Bulletin de la SodSie, 1883, says of this disastrous
expedition :—" Honor to DeLong, who always knew how
to"exercise the fullest qualities of courage and command !
tt6*ior Xo all his comrades, officers and sailors, whose spirit
of discipline and sacrifice is a glory to the navy which
counfs siMfh «ien within its ranks."

•Capt. C. L. Hooker, of the U. S. Revenue Steamer
"Oo^wtn " who was sent twice (iS8o-'8i) to the Arctic
Oceianyi^by ^Ihte ^.^. f reasuny Department, to search for

WCBBIiW SMWCAJf's :gs»BTZ.

*7eannette," and who sa^e^ ''^^"^ ^ssTstance to the

diaryofCaplain Defnn, " "»'' "^'""Md then, oi^ """WW »v<,|

Perh«ps lower, takinl off k- ' "'^'^^ '^^'t^ the temiirih.«^ 1*"'^ *«>
tain. Surely when tL fi ^'f '*^'-skin robe to c?v« h?a tJ ^"^ "^

tides and currentt'and !f hS r,'%'"°''' '''* a'S

Land named for Baron Cngel II'L'r'' ^^ ^""6*"
the Russian explorer «,!.„«. A °" * ^^SSian AdmiJal^
ftonuhe Siberian I„ii"\^ first learned of its exSS

tam a higl, latitude ^ that ''„'"?■"? PO«iWe to at
whalers, so far as knm.,„ u ' P*" "^ 'he Arctic w„

some haye gone^'^i'Ssetonr:- h^^^'^l '° '*° '"4^
and tlie ice between Wr=„ f. ^ '"S'> ^s lat. 73° ,0' nT
• forms and remain" furtfe^i }f'"^. "^ ^oSt ^BarZ'
he frozen zones. The U s^ i*^" '" ^-X other part 0"
'Rodgers" were able to wL i"™"' "Corwin" a^'
waters of Alaska and tdioin^n ''f"'e«rous shoals in th»

^'-n^- coast) was fi^ ea^Xd fe^SS^-f^

586

PROQRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

re,

'3,

-.!!:

1881, by Capt. Hooper, in the U. S. Revenue Steamer
" Corwin," He says in his report :

" Good observations for latitude and longitude, confirmed by sub«
sequent bearings and observations taken on the east coast, showed
the land on the American llydrogrnphic Chart to be laid down IS
miles too far south, although the general trend of the coast is very
nearly correct."

"No warm current from Bering Sea enters Behrinff
Strait," says Mr. W, H. Dall of the U. S. Coast and
Geodetic Survey, in his report for 1880, "with the excep-
tion of water from the neighboring rivers or the adjacent
sounds. This water owes its heat directly to the local
action of the sun's rays. The strait is incapable of carry-
ing a current of warm water of sufficient magnitude to
have any marl<ed effect on the condition 01 the Polar
Basin just north of it. The currents through the strait
are cool and chiefly tidal, but with a preponderating ten-
dency northward. The cuvents in the Arctic, north of
the straits, are largely dependent on the winds [this was
Lieut. DeLong's experience], but have tendencies in cer-
tain recognized directions. [DeLong found that the
drifts of the packs varied constantly, and that he lost
much ground some days in travelling on the ice]. Nothing
in our knowledge of them offers any hope of an easier pas-
sage toward the Pole, or in general, northward through
their agency. Nothing yet revealed in the investigation
of the subject in the least tends to support the widely
spread but unphilosophical notion, that in any part oi the
Polar Sea we may look for large areas free from ice."
In confirmation of these views, we quote the later authority
of Dr. Thomas Antisell, in the Bulletin of the American
Geographical Society, No. H, 1883. He says:

In May and June a broad warm current is found flowing around the
•hores ot the Siu Kiu Islands and the Bonin Islands, which it has
already reached in April, producing variable winds before the mon-
soon is established in full influence. This current is felt off the shores
of Japan and has already received its Japanese title — the Black Sea
or current (Kuro Siwo) — from the remarkable dark color which its
waters exhibit when looking over the ship's side, — it is a deep blue
black, and it can be recognized with ease as soon as it is attempted to
bo crossed. Cradled in the China Sea, the offspring of the equato«

amer

y su"b«
howed
wn 18
» very

bring
; and
ixcep-
jacent
local
carry-
ide to
Polar
strait
ig ten-
Drth of
lis was
in cer-
at the
le lost
othing
ler pas-
|hrough
ligation
widely
of the
\^ ice."
[thority
lerican

bund the

it has

t\e mon-

|e shores

ack Sea

Thich its

Up blue

ipted to

jequato*

POLAR CUIIRENTS — 1IKRINQ STRAIT.

687

Hal drift and its warm currents among the Philippine Islands, when it

E asses Formosa in early sunjincr it is already a powerful current, and
cgins to send off lesser currents while proceeding on its northern
route. lUit the waning power of the Kuro Siwo is indicated by the
temperature of the months of October, November and December, in
which it disappears between latitude 30" iind 40". The whole ocean
is cooling down, and the influence of the Asiatic shores as refrig-
erators is apparent; the N. E. monsoon has set in and continues
during the first three months of the new year to 'oring down the sur-
face of the Pacific to that condition of equilibrium in which no warmth
is communicated from the air to the ocean. The S. W. monsoon has
ceased to blow, and the Kuro Siwo as a current disappears, although
its warming and equalizing diffusion continues in a mdd way. , . .The
North Pacitic C)ccan has, practically sjjeaking, no northern outlet ;
Bering Strait is but a <■«/ Jf /<w, and is na real gate of entranct into
Vie Arctic Oceam.^

Those are tne probably true discoveries of observation,
and theoretical reasoning from ascertained facts, which
the cruise of the *' Jeannette " and consequently of the
" Corwin " and " Rodgers," has added to the sum of
human knowledge. If DeLong had not believed that
Bering Sea was a " real gate of entrance to the Arctic
Ocean," that Wrangell Land was a continent, and the
" open Polar Sea " beyond, he would not have ventured
among its treacherous ice-flo*^ — but would have explored
a better route.

Bering Strait. — A description of this entrance to the
Arctic Ocean will render the course of the various voy-
ages more clear to the general reader. The strait was
named after the famous navigator, Vitus Bering (some-
times called Behring), a Dane, born in 1680, who entered
the newly formed navy of Peter the Great in 1704, and in
1728 was appointed to conduct an expedition in the Sea
of Kamtchatka. Following the coast northward he
rounded, it was supposed, the northeast point of Asia,
nd reached the strait to which he gave his name. — This
^;rait separates Asia from America, and connects the
Pacific with the Arctic Ocean. The narrowest part is
near lat. 66°, between East Cape in Asia and Cape Prince
of Wales in America, distant from each other in a direc-
tion from northwest to southeast, nearly 50 miles. The
greatest depth, some 30 fathoms, is towards the middle,
and the water is shallower towards the American coas^

II ■

ill

isfii '

1*^? ^

•

W' '

^K"

698

PH6011KSS OF AltCtrC MSCOVHRT.

than the Asiatic. Bering Sea is a part of the North
Pacific Ocean, is bounded north by Bering Strait, east by
Alaska, south by the Aleutian islands, and west by Kam-
tchatka, and is also called the Sea of Kamtchatka.
Bering Island is the most westerly of the Aleutian
islands, in lat. 55° 22' N., long. 166'' E. It has an area
of 30 square miles, and is noteworthy as the place where
Beting, its discoverer, was wrecked, and died in 1741.

RtLitP Expeditions of the U. S. Steamers " Corwin *'

AND "RODGERS."

'Iti 1879 the American whalers returned late in the
season without two of their number — the " Mount Wollas-
ton," under Capt. Nye, of New Bedford, Mass., and the
**" Vigilant," and also without any intelligence of the " Jean-
nritte " ; the former was last seen Oct. loth, and the latter,
in the same waters, not since Aug. 1879. On May 15th,
18S0, Secretary of the Treasury Sherman, sharing in
the general anxiety, dispatched the Revenue Steamer
" Corwin," Capt. C. L. Hooper, from San Francisco, " for
the enforcement of the provisions of law and protection of
the interests of the U. S. Government on the seal islands
arid 'the seaotter hunting grounds of Alaska; but, addi-
tionally, to afford assistance to the two whalers ' Mount
Wbllaston " and "Vigilant," and to the " Jeannette," if they
should possibly be fallen in with." The " Corwin "
reached Ounalaska in June, and on June irth, encoun-
tered the first ice packs north of Kounivak Island, in lat.
6b* N.; long. 160** W. On the X7th, escaping from the
ftoes, she proceeded to Norton Sound, and thence to St.
Lawrence Island, where the inhabitants had been deci-
mated by starvation. In some villages hundreds were
fbuiid dead and unburied— in two, all were dead, from
the itifetise cold and lack of food. On June s8th, the
Arictic Ocean was entered and traversed for 6,000 miles
uiiUl Oct. 2d ; but the " Corwin " could obtain no news of
the l6st Whalers. Capt. Bauhiry, of the " Helen Mar " of
New Bedford, saw them last 40 miles southeast of Herald

GOiJ;« 8VAIC0 OF XRB AliCTXO.

&89

ioun-
lat.
the

lo St.

leci-

/ere

Erom

the

liles

^s of

I" of

raid

Island, whence they were driven northwesterly by a sud-
den change of wind, and shut in by heavy masses of ice.
East of Cape Lisburne, which the " Corwin ** sailed
around on July 22d, in lat. 68** 50' N., long. 164** 55' W.
coal seams were visited. Capt, Hooper says : " The veins
of coal on the face of the cliff can be seen distinctly at
the distance of one mile." When these coal beds were
formed, heat prevailed in the Arctic regions; vegetation
and animal life flourished ! Geologists can estimate how
many thousand years ago this stupendous fact in nature
happened, and how many cycles will transpire before the
same climate shall again transform the dreary Qesolation
which reigns in the frozen zones. In a previous page we
have given on this subject, the calculations of Mr. Croll,
one of the most reliable of English scientists.

On Sept. nth, the "Corwin" passed southward of
Herald Shoal, and followed the ice-pacic southwest until
Hooper saw the high peaks of Wrangell Land. He ex
presses DeLong's opinion that it "is a large island," and
adds, " possibly of a chain that passes through the Polar re-
gions to Greenland." — Distances are deceptive, land w/r-
a^gs are frequent in the Polar Seas. On this point we quote
the words of Dr. Rosse, the surgeon of the " Corwin " :

" Not the least curious of the atmospheric phenomena are the
modifications of nervous excitability in connection with the percep-
tion of light — the wonderful optical illusions witnessed from time to
time during periods of extraordinary and unequal retraction. One
day in July, at St. Michael's, I saw on looking northward an island
high up in the air and inverted; some distant peaks, invisible on or-
dinary occasions, loomed up, and at one time the very shape of a tower-
topped building magnified, and suddenly changing, assumed the shape
of immense factory chimneys. Again, off Purt Clarence was witnessed
the optical phenomenon of dancing mountains and the mirage of ice
fifty miles away, which caused our experienced ice pilot tjO say : ' No
use to go in here, don't you see the ice I '

Again, the mountains of Behring Straits have so betrayed the im^
agination that they have been seen to assume the most fantastical and
grotesque shapes, at one moment that of a mountain not unlike Table
Mountain, off the Cape of Good Hope ; then the changing diorama
shows the shape of an immense anvil, followed by the likeness of an
enormous gun mounted en barbette, the whole standing out in silhouette
against the background, while looking in an opposite directipn 9,% an?>
other time a whaling vessel, turned bottom upward, aj^pe^u^d in tlu;
sky. On another occasion, in lat. 70^, when the state of the air W49
fovorable to extr^Qrdinary rctfravtion, a white f^ knvwdH °-^ ^

590

PROnUESS OP ARCTIC DISOOVKRY.

water In the distant horizon was taken for an icchcrg, or more corrcctlv
a floe-berg ; other gulls in the distance, looming up, looked for all the
world like white tents on a beach, while others resembled men with
white shirts paddling a canoe."

Captain Hooper says, of the ice-fields :—

"The ice of the Arctic Ocean is never at rest. Even in the coldest
winters it is liable to displacement and pressure by the currents of the
air and water. The expansions anil contractioi\s, due to changes in
temperature, also assist in this disturbance. Owing to these com-
bined causes, the surface of the ice always presents a rough, uneven
appearance.

" Along fhe edge of the pack, during the summer, is generally found
a belt of drift-ice, varying in width according to tl»e direction of the
wind. When the wind blows off the pack, drift-ice is frequently
found fifteen or twenty miles from the main body. At times the pack
itself opens in leads, by which it may be penetrated for several miles.
In venturing within the limits of tiie pack, however, a sharp watch
must be kept on the movements of the ice and a reueat made al the
first indication oi its closing.

"A vessel be.set in the pack is as helpless as if she was as far in-
land, while there is imminent d umcr of being crushed at any moment.

" When the wind blows on the pack, the drift-ice becomes as close
as the pack itself. . .

" The " barrier," on that part of the ice which does not break up,
varies slightly in position from year to year, but generally may be
looked for near Icy Cape, during September. It extends westerly
as far as Herald Shoal, where it t.'»kes a northwesterly direction to
the vicinity of Herald Island. Here in August and September, a lane of
open water is generally found extending to the northward. This
space is at first filled with broken ice. On our second attempt to
reach this island, we steamed up this lane over fiftv miles, with the
pack in sight from the masthead on both sides. The last twenty miles
we were compelled to force our way through drift-ice."

Captain Hooper thus describes the Eskimo Indians of the
North American coast : —

'These Innuits, by which name onlv these people know each other,
are totally unlike the Eskimos described in books of travel, being tall
and muscular, many of them over six feet in hcipiht : one at Cape
Kruzenstem fully six feet six inches. Their remarkable physical ,.:,-
velopment seems due to a mixture with the Indians of llie interior,
those living on the Yukon and Tennewah Rivers and other places,
having long muscular limbs and erect figures, showing courage, strength
and endurance. Like all aborigines, the men are lazy and compel the
women to perform all the manual labor ; Captain Hooper saw two women
each with a child on her back, drawing a thirtv-foot net for salmon,
while the men stood by smoking, without offering to assist, although
It was evident the task was too much for the women.

NORTH AMERIOAN ESKIMOS.

691

)fthe

"The seal tn:iv be called their main stay; the flesh and oil form
the chief ai licit' of subsistence, the skin furnishes clothing, tents, aud
buats ; cut into thongs, it is used for ni:ikii\g nets fur catching fish and
birds. The oil is burned in lumps which light and warm the tupiks
durinj; the long, dark winter nights.

"i'hey hunt seals on tlw ice in the spring and fall, and show
themselves marvels of patience, lying flat on the ice for hours, waiting
for a seal to appear. The seal is very shy, and seldom moves far
from the hole in the ice which they keep open, by scratching. The
hunter approaches cautiously, by crawling over the ice, his botly
nearly prostrate, raised slightly on one cmow. He has a piece of
bear-skin, about two feet long and a foot wide, which he attaches to
his leg on the side upon which he rests; this enables him to slide
niore easily over the ice. The elbow rests upon a ring of grass. He
carries a stick, to which is attached the claw of some animal or bird,
to use in imitating the scratching of the seal on the ice. In the other
hand he supports his rifle, in readiness for instant use.

'* In hunting whales the natives use the " oomiak." They use
spears, with heads of flint or walrus ivory, pointed with iron ; the
pole is about six feet long, and attached to it by a line of seal-thongs
IS a seal-skin poke. A number of these spears being thrown into the
whale, the pokes prevent him from going far below the surface and
enable the hunters to track him, and be on hand to kill him when he
comes up to breathe. The carcass, including flesh and blubber, is
used for food, aiHl is the property of every man, woman and child in
the settlement; th'^^ bone however belongs to those who took part irt
the capture. The maxillary bones of the whale are cut into strips
and used for shoeing the runners of their sleds, and for this purpose
are said to be superior to iron or steel.

"These natives are nomadic in their habits; although they have
winter-houses, to which they return each fall, they travel all summer.
Their manner of travelling is peculiar to themselves ; they use the
oomiak, in which is stowed everything belonging to the entire family,
except the working-dogs. This oomiak is a boat built of walrus-
hide or seal-skin drawn over a wooden-frame about thirty feet long,
six feet wide, and two and a half feet deej). The frame is fastened
with seal-skin thongs and made with slip-joints, to allow it to work in
a sea-way. They are flat-bottomed, sharp at both ends, and with very
little shear. The men use paddies and the women oars; they carry a
square sail. When they wish to stop for a night or day, they land,
pitch their tents, take everything out of the oomiak, and turn it up on
the beach, where they are quite as much at home as in their winter*
houses; men, women, children, and dogs forming a happy, noisy,
dirty family. They eat when they feel hungry, which seems to be
nearly all the time, and sleep without regard to time. The dogs eat
"when they can, and steal everything they can get their teeth through.*

** The native language differs very materally in different localities.
Our interpreter from St. Michael's was of no use to us north of Kotzebue
Sound, and even there it was difficult for him to understand the dia-
lect. The change is gradual. At each settlement from Cape Prince
of Wales north we observed a slight difference; the sound of words
changed so as to be almost unrecognizable, or the words were dropptd.

592

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

<ht1re1y and new onc3 substituted, until almost an entire change had
been effected in the language; so that a vocabulary made at Cape
Prince of Wales would be almost useless at Point Hope, and entirely
so at Icy Cape or Point Barrow. A few substantives alone re-
main the same all along the coast.

" The religious belief of the Innuit is of a crude, indefinite nature,
to the effect that there is a Power which rewards good Innuits and
punishes bad ones, after death, by sending them to different places.
At some localities they told us that the good went to a place above,
while at others it was thought that the place was below. They have
only a confused idea of the subject, however, and seemed anxious to
avoid speaking of it anymore than was necessary. Their belief evi-
dently teaches nothing of truthfulness, honesty, or other virtue, or that
cleanliness is next to godliness.

'Shamanism ' is followed by all these people, and, notwithstanding
the numerous tricks practised upon them, they seem to have implict
faith in it. Even the ' shamans' themselves show an earnestness in
their work that makes us wonder, after all, ►f there is not some virtue
in it. Wrangell, who seems to have given the subject some attention,
says:

" The * shamans * have been represented as being universally mere
knavish deceivers, and no doubt this is true of many of them who go
about the country exhibiting all kinds of juggling tricks to obtain pres-
ents ; but the history of not a few is, T believe, very different. Cer-
tain individuals are born with ardent imaginations and excitable nerves.
Thev grow up amid a general belief in ghosts, ' shamans,' and mysteri-
ous powers exercised by the latter. The credulous youth is strangely
affected, and aspires to participate in these supernatural communica-
tions and powers, but no one can teach him how he can do so. Be
retires, therefore, from his fellows ; his imagination is powerfully
wrought upon by solitude, by the contcuiplation of the gloomy aspeet
of surrounding nature, by long vigils and fasts, and by the use of nar-
cotics and stimulants, until he becomes persuaded that he, too, has
seen the mysterious apparitions of which he has heard from his boy-
hood. He is then received as a 'shaman,' with many ceremonies
performed in the silence and darkness of the night; is given the
magic drum, etc. Still all his actions continue, as before, to be the
result of his individual character. A true * shaman,' therefore, is not
an ordinary deceiver, but rather a psychological phenomenon, by no
m^ans unworthy of attention. Always after seeing them operate,
they have left on my mind a long continued and gloomy impression;
the wild look, the bloodshot eye, the laboring breast, the convulsive
rttterance, the seen-ingly involuntary distortion of the face and whole
body, the streaming hair, the hollow sound of the drum — all conspired
to produce the effect; and I can well conceive that these should appear
to the ignorant and superstitious savage as the works of evil spirits."

"The natives are inveterate smokers. I believe that
every man, woman and child in Arctic-Alaska smokes a
pipe. They manufacture their own pipes of brass, copper
$nd iron. The stem is of wood, about ten inches long, an4

iM'

%^\-
•^■w-.^'

■^.

'.T'^

':$■

lpi >Wi y!rw ir iii ><(WBiW* > ;iW j «S> 1

EXPLOBATION OP HERALD ISLAlH).

59S

steri-

igely

nica-

fully

peet

nar-

has

oy-

inies

the

not

te,

n;
ive
ole
ed
;ar

a
ler

is in two pieces bound together with strips of whalebone
or sinew. The bowls are often made of two or three kinds
of metal, as neatly joined as could be done by any jeweller.
A small skin bag, hung from the neck holds the pipe, and
a smaller bag, tobacco, flint, and steel, also a quantity of
wild cotton soaked in a solution of gunpowder which is
used as tinder. ... In using the pipe a small quantity of
hair from an at-te-gheox other convenient skin, is put in the
bottom of the bowl, and over this some finely-cut tobacco,
the bowl holding only a small pinch. . . The native swal-
lows the smoke, which he retains in his lungs as long as
possible — sometimes until he falls over senseless ; having
the appearance of a person under the influence of opium.
This state lasts but a few minutes, when the same per-
formance is again gone through with."

The " Corwin " returned to San Francisco, Oct. 2, 1880.
Capt. Hooper made his report Nov. i, 1880 — See "Treas-
ury Department, No. 118 — from which the above interest-
ing extracts are taken.

April 21, 1881, the "Corwin" was dispatched on an-
other cruise to pursue inquiries for the missing ships and
crews. She sailed from San Francisco, May 4. AtOuna-
laska or Illialook, in the Aleutian Islands, the population
(348 in number) were nearly all sick with pleuro-pneu-
monia, and were treated by Surgeon Irving C. Rosse, of
the " Corwin." The ship arrived at St. Paul's May 23,
and sailed thence for Cape Thaddeus, Siberia. On the
29th she anchored on the south side of St. Lawrence Bay.
Cape Serdze Kamen was the next point, where ice as high
as 30 feet extended two to three miles from shore. Capt.
Hooper was conducted on a sled to Topkan, the native
village near the wintering place of the " Vega " in 1878-9,
lat. 69° 28', long. lys*" 10' N. " In one of the houses,"
he says, " we were shown a silver fork and spoon which
had been presented *^o one of the old men by Professor
Nordenskiold, who was called by them Capt. *' Enshall."

Early in June, s^rriving near Kolintchin Island, after
escaping dangerous ice-packs, a sledge party was sent
along the Asiatic coast as far as Cape Waukeram. Here
relies of the lost jvhalers were obtained from the natives,
who had taken them from the wreck of the '* Vigilant," in
the G«bu> of wluch vessel they found four corpses.

594

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

July 30, the " Corwin " sighted Herald Islai.d, and suc-
ceeded in making fast to ground ice about a cable's length
fronti shore. The island was explored for the first time in
its history by the *' ^orwin's " party. Prof. John Muir, of
California, scientist, Mr. Nelson, botanist, and nearly all
the officers and crew landed over ice full of hollows and
hummocks, and many scrambled a thousand feet up the
precipitous rocks which, at the slightest touch, often came
thundering down. "The entire island is a mass of gran-
ite, with the exception of a patch of metamorphic slate
near the center, and no doubt owes its existence, with so
considerable a height, to the superior resistance this gran-
ite offers to the degrading action of the northern ice-sheet,
tracjes of which are plainly shown. Standing as it does
alone on the Polar Sea, it is a fine glacial monument.
The island is about six miles long by two wide ; its great-
est height as shown by an accurately tested barometer, is
1200 feet. Several species of plants were found on its
summit, and birds covered the cliffs. Wrangell Land was
seen, its eastern coast about 45 miles distant. The mid-
night sun was shining, and Prof. Muir says : " The hour
which I spent alone was one of the most impressive of my
life, and I would fain have watched here all the strange
night."

The Albatross. — Mr. E. W. Nelson, the botanist and naturalist of the
" Corwin, " thus speaks of the Albatross^ which he saw in the North
Pacific : —

" The ' gony, ' as this bird is called on the North Pacific, is an abun-
dant bird over this entire stretch of the ocean. It takes company
with a vessel on its leaving San Francisco, and follows it to the neigh-
borhood of the Aleutian IHands, where it disappears : and, as we
noted in October, 1S81, soon after we left OunalasUa these bird§ ap-
peared and were with us continually in pleasant or stormy weather,
until we approached San Francisco, The majority seen were young,
the light-colored birds being observed only at intervals. Nearly all
are dark smock brown, but here and there may be seen one with a
ring of white feathers around the rump at the base of the tail,
and all have a marked line of white surrounding the V)ase of the bill.
Those with the white on the tail almost invariably have a white spot
under each eye. The graceful evolutions of these birds afford one of
the most pleasing sights during a voyage across the North Pacific,
and they are a source of continual interest during the otherwise mon«
otonous passage."

This mysterious bird has given rise among sailors to

many superstitious Wend*: r» r ,

Atfencth did cross an AIb,ltro„
. Wrangell Tor KellpHA T

girdled land, u^ to D L^^.'-'ft^T'^'" '"^^^--"^ ice^n-

1881, the American fla- raised ^. * Corvvin," Aug. n
?,"d the island rechri^tened ^/^ '°^"" ^'^ «vvners^hip "
Corwm anchored in a de^f, ^^^'^ Columbia." 1^'
?"S- ^77^ 40' W, wi&!"^.fP^d river, lat. 7,07
" brown and naked " cTifff^ '^ ""'^^ ^^^n from the
^east 40 miles. " We S-^'IJ^'f^^^^ '^^ mountaTns a?
report, '' with our ghss's "^S '^' ^^°^^ ^ine," slys ,he
the land north and sou h and ,? ^'■^^^^'"g and le^av ng
dicular hills of slate from 100 to . ' f'^'^'^t'- ^^^ Parpen?
banks of the river bein^tl e onIv^°? '"'. ^^^^' ^^^ sloping
party travellin^j over rL ^ P^^^^ for miles where f

^^ncling." Th? vTo e vLrv ""^"^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^o S^c! a

• S^H'""^"^'^^'P-tTp fen "^b^^^^ scannedlor
Lapt. Hooper adds " Th;. r'^''^^"'> but none were <;ppn

'^"d 3een ly Capt KeL '^""''""l^'edly the pa? of the

covered and landed on KiV;)"', •«49, «i>en he dfs!

given this island by Cam H "",''■ '"'>« new name

popular appellation M;,"::il'=; ''"f ""' usurped the

explorer s origin,, discoverv "us ^'"'^'' '"'' '^^ R"ss an

name Nor will the United S^f/ k"""" '' '<> bear his

^an Francisco Oct. 2, ,8s, f ^9°™'" ' returned to

596

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Cruise of the U. S. Steamer " Rodgers." — Gongress
passed an act approved by President Garfield, March 3,
1881, appropriating $175,000 "to enable the Secretary of
the N-avy immediately to charter, or purchase, equip and
supply a vessel for the prosecution of a search for the
steamer " Jeannette," and such other vessels as might be
found to need assistance during said cruise — provided that
the vessel be wholly manned by volunteers from the
Navy." Under this authority the Arctic steam whaler
" Mary and Helen," was purchased at San Francisco for
$100,000, and was re-named the "Rodgers," after the
President of the Naval Board. Lieut. Berry was placed
in command ; officers and crew, all volunteers, numbered
35. The ship left San Francisco June 16. Two native
hunters and dog-drivers were hired at St. Lawrence Bay,
and, Aug. 20th, Capt. Berry entered the dreadful Arctic
Ocean. He visited Herald Island, and next anchored in
six fathoms on the southern coast of Wrangell Island, half
a mile from land, and sent search parties ashore. The
cairn which Surgeon Ro&he of the " Corwin " had left
there Aug. 12 th, was found. Another party skirted the
coast, and Lieut. Berry's party went 20 miles inland north-
west by north near the centre of the island. They as-
cended one peak 2500 leet high. It was definitely deter-
mined that this land is an island 70 miles long east and
west, and 35 miles broad, including the sandy beach. It
is bounded on the coast line by hills, and the whole island
is made up of precipitous peaks and valleys. The
" Rodgers " left this spot Sept. 13, and steamed north-
ward into an impenetrable pack in lat. 73'' 9' N., long,
174** 8' West; on the i8th she reached lat. 73** 44' N.,
long. 171** 48' W. in82 fathoms of water. About Sept. 27,
on Tiapka Island, coast of Siberia, Berry left a party com
sisting of Master C. F. Putnam^ U. S. N., Surgeon Jones,
W. H. Gilder, formerly of Lieut. Schwatka's expedition,
two seamen and a native, with a year's supply, and instruc-
tions to search the coast westward for the lost explorers
and whalers. Oct. 15 the " Rodgers " stopped at St Law-
rence Bay to winter. But before the provisions and sup-
plies were transferred to the shore, the " Rodgers " was
bunied up. The fire originated in the hold, it was thougjbV

■HMMm

B. S; BOGBBS BTTBNT.

597

from spontaneous combustion or from the donkey boiler.
A large part of the stores were consumed. The crew es-
caped to the shore in the boats, loaded with what they
could sa\re from the flames, and next day found a refuge
in the hospitable villages of the natives. Master Putnam,
who had been left in charge of an exploring party near
Cape Serdze, heard from the natives of the destruction of
the ship, and conducted four sledges loaded with provis-
ions for the relief of the crew. These he delivered Jan.
4, i88a, and in returning to his camp, driving a team of
nine dogs, he lost his way in crossing the bay and was
carried out to sea on an ice-floe. Although parties were
sent out to search for him, he was not found ; though seen
three days afterwards on the floe, the boats were cut by
the ice in attempting to reach him. Six of the dogs came
ashore Jan. 29, without harness.

Lieut. Berry had meantime joined the search party at
Cape Serdze, and searched the coast westward. He
overtook Engineer Melville's search party, whose course
has been already described, and learning of the melan-
choly end of DeLong, he went to Yakutsk, and thence re-
turned home. The crew of the " Rodgers " were taken
from St. Lawrence Bay by the whaling barque " North
Star," May 8, and on her way to Ounalaska were trans
ferred to the " Corwin," and landed at San Francisco
June 23, 1882. Congress appropriated $3,000 to "suit-
ably reward the natives " who housed, fed, repaired the
clothing, and befriended the officers and men of the
" Rodgers " after their vessel was burned.

The Royal Geographical Society, London, thus com-
mended the work of Lieut. Berry, at its meeting Dec. 12,
188 1 : — "The complete exploration of Wrangell Land by
the officers of the " Rodgers " is a great geographical
achievement. For this far-off island, so long heard of and
at last sighted, but always on the very threshold of the
unknown, has been one of the longed-for goals of discov-
ery ever since the Tchuktchis told Baron Wrangell that it
could be seen on a clear day from Cape Jakan. They
said that herds of deer sometimes came from thence
across the ice; and their traditions related how the
pnlciloR, Omoki an4 ot|>er frib^s had w^nd^red northward

698

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DTSCOVERT.

over the ice to distant lands, so that there was a halo of
romance oyer the Siberian * Ultima Thule,' which was
heightened 'by ihe gallant but vain efforts of Wrangell
himself to reach it by dog-sledges in 1822 and 1823. At
length it was actually sighted by Cant. Kellett in 1849,
when he discovered Heralfl Island in lat. 71" 12' N. The
American Capt. Long also sighted it in 1867, and others
have done so since. But now it has been thoroughly ex-
plored ; it is 80 miles from the nearest point on the Si-
berian coast ; Herald Island lies 30 miles due east.''

Cruise of U. S. Steamer " Alliance," June i6-0ct.

1 ft'

II, 1881.

After the " Rodgers " was sent through Bering Strait,
the U. S. screw steamer " AMiance," Capt. Wadleigh, was
dispatche-d, June 16, to cruise for the lost "Jeannette"
between Greenland, Iceland, and the coasts of Norway
and Spitzbergen " as far north as lat. 77°, or further."
She reached Raykiavik, where the parliament of Iceland
was sitting, July 12. July 24 she anchored in the harbor
of Hammerfest, Norway. Thence she sailed to Bel Sound
and Green Harbor, Spitzbergen, and cruised along the
edge of the pack to lat. 80** 10' N. After cruising until
Sept. 25, deeming it unsafe to pass over to the east coast
of Greenland, Captain W. returned to New York Oct. 11,
1881. This cruise was comparatively without result; of
course nothing was heard of the " Jeannette," which was
about 10,000 miles further east on the North Asiatic coast.

Northeast Passage. — Attempts to penetrate Bering
Strait and the Polar Sea, and to reach Eastern Asia by
coasting along the North of Europe and Asia, date back
as far as icc;3. In the latter year Sir Hugh Willoughby
sailed fro' England in three ships, fitted out under the
direction the celebrated Sebastian Cabot. The ships
rounded t* , North Cape, where one was driven apart
during a violent storm, and subsequently entered the
White Sea, then unknown to Western Europeans. The
Other two drifted hither and thither in the vast waste of

■»»■

«(-«r

1 * ' " ' tjj"

ABOUND ASIA AND AMERICA.

599

water surrounding the pole, till the navigators sighted
Nova Zembla. They sailed back along the north of Rus-
sia, and took up their winter quarters on the coast of
Russian Lapland, where they were subsequently found
frozen to death. None of the expeditions of that age,
English or Dutch, ever succeeded in penetrating farther
than the east coast of Nova Zembla, though they extended
geographical knowledge by making accurate surveys of
Northern Europe and the adjacent islands of Spitzbergen,
Nova Zembla, Waygatz, &c. In 1 594-1 596, William
Barentz, Dutch navigator, made three expeditions, in the
third of which he nearly reached Icy Cape, about long.
100*' E., but was imprisoned by the ice, and died before
the winter closed. Henry Hudson also made two memo-
rable and disastrous expeditions in 1 608-1 609. All the
progress made so far proved only that during favorable
seasons a passage could be found to the eastward. The
expeditions both overland and by water, undertaken by
the Russian government, which started from various
points on the north and east coasts of Siberia, were more
successful — especially that of Capt. Bering, in 1741, which
sailed from Petropaulovski to the east cape, and those of
Shalaroff, and of Billings. The expeditions of Baron
Nordenskiold in 1875-1876, in which he reached the east-
ern shores of the Gulf of Obi ; and his cruise in the
*' Vega," in 1878-1879, in which he rounded Cape Chel-
yuskin, and sailed in September from the mouths of the
Lena for Bering's Strait, have been alluded to in connection
with DeLong and Hooper's expeditions. To him belongs
the high honor of having completed the long-sought
Northeast passage around Asia. This was a notable
achievement — a triumph over the adverse forces of Nature
which foreshadows further conquests. The advantages
which it was expected Commerce would derive from this
discovery are still intangible ; but the incident?^ benefit to
mankind of all the expeditions has been great — both of
those by Bering Strait and Baffin Bay. The supposed dis-
covery of the Northwest Passage by Sir John Franklin, and
its indisputable accomplishment by McClure, in 1852,
when he penetrated from Bering's Strait to Baffin's Bay —
the various channels of communication traversed by sub-

600

PBOGBBSS OF ABCTIO DISCOVERT.

sequent explorers between Davis' and Bering Strait, such
as the route by Hudson's Bay, Fox Channel, Fury and
Hecla and Beliot Straits, into Franklin Channel, and
thence by either the McClintock or the Victoria Channel,
or the routes by Lancaster Sound, and the McClintock
Channel, Prince Regent Inlet, or Prince of Wales Strait
to the open sea north of Alaska, though useless in a mer-
cantile point of view — have contributed so largely to the
advancement of science that their cost has been well re-
paid. The results are summarized in the following re-
ports : —

Lieutenant N. F. Maury, U. S. N., says :

" Voyages of discovery, with their fascinations and their charms
have led many a noble champion both into the torrid and frigid zones ;
and notwithstanding the hardships, sufferings and disasters to which
Northern paities have found themselves exposed, seafaring men, as
science has advanced, have lo( ked with deeper and deeper longings
toward the mystic circles of the polar regions. There icebergs are
framed and glaciers launched. There the tides have their cradle, the
whales their nursery. There the winds complete their circuits and the
currents of the sea their rounds in the wonderful system of oceanic
circulation. There the Aurora Borealis is lighted up and the trem-
bling needle brought to rest ; and there, too, in the mazes of that mystic
circle, terrestrial forces of occult power and of vast influence upon the
well being of man are continually at play. Within the Arctic circle is
the pole of the winds and the poles of the cold, the pole of the earth
and of the magnet. It is a circle of mysteries, and the desire to enter
it, to explore its untrodden wastes and secret chambers, and to study
its physical aspects, has grown into a longing. Noble daring has made
Arctic ice and waters classic ground. It is no feverish excitement nor
vain ambition that leads man there. It is a higher feeling, a holier
motive — a desire to look into the works of creation, to comprehend
the economy of our planet — and to grow wiser and better by the
knowledge.

" The expeditions which have been sent to explore unknown seas
have contributed largely to the extent of human knowledge, and they
have added renown to- nations, and lustre to diadems. Navies are not
all for war. Peace has its conquests, Science its glories; and no navy
can boast of brighter chaplets than those wbi^n have been gathered in
the fields of geographical exploration and physical research."

The Smithsonian Report of 1856, says :

" The natural history results (of Lieut. Rodgers' Bering Straits Ex-
pedition) were of great magnitude, and embraced many new and rare
species; the collections made by the naturalists, Stimpson and Wright,
lg«ing made first uoder Cgmmand/er Sioggold in the &QUtU {'adiic «w4

RESULTS SimMAltlZED.

601

:le

China Seas and afterward largely increased by those secured around
Japan, Kamtchatka, in the straits, and on the Californian coast. The
whole of a very rich collection of invertebrates, made in the Arctic
seas was dredged from the ' Vincennes' by Capt. Kodgers himself.

Admiral Sherard Osborn, of the British Navy, said,
1874 :

" Those who assert that our labors and researches have merely add-
ed so many miles of unprofitable coast line to our charts, had oetter
compare our knowledge of Arctic phenomena to-day with the theories
enunciated by men of learning and repute a century ago. They should
confront our knowledge of 1874 with that of 1800 upon the natural
history, meteorology, climate, and winds of the Arctic regions. They
must remember it was there we obtained the clue, still unravelled, to
the laws of those mysterious currents which flow through the wastes
of the ocean like two mighty rivers — the Gulf Stream and the Ice
Stream; must remember that it was there — in Boothia — that the two
Rosses first reached the Magnetic Pole, that mysterious point round
which revolves the mariner's compass over one half of the northern
hemispherje; and let the world say whether the mass of observations
collected by our explorers on all sides of that Magnetic Pole have
added nothing to the knowledge of the laws of magnetic declination
and dip. . . We have discovered how Providence has peopled the
polar regions to the extreme latitude yet reach«d, with the animals on
which they subsist."

Admiral Beechey said :

" Before the voyages to the North all was darkness and terror, all
beyond the North Cape a blank ; but, since then, each successive voy-
ge has swept away some gloomy superstition, and has brought to lignt
some new phenomenon "

Hon. Judge Daly, President of the American Geo-
graphical Society, and an active promoter of American
Expeditions to the Arctic, says :

*' Explorations for the discovery of the Northwest Passage, and those
sent out for the relief of Sir John Franklin or other explorers, resulted
in the discovery of that great region lying within the Arctic Circle
between 60** and 130° west longitude, up to Cape Perry, and 71** 23'
west longitude and 770 6' north latitude; or, from Davis Strait to
Cape Bathurst; embracing Banks, Prince Albert, and Prince Patrick's
Lands, Melville Island and Sound, McClintock's Channel, Bathurst
Island, Victoria, Prince of Wales, and King William Land, Boothia,
and Gulf of Boothia, North Somerset, North Devon, Melville Pen-
insula, Cockburn Island, Grinnell, Ellesmere, and Washington Lands,
Lancaster, Ellipse, and Jones' Sounds, Wellington Channel, Kellet,
^Wrangle Land) Barrow^ ^traits^ Franklin Straits, Peel, Sir James

602

PBOOBESS OV ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

«(;!:

Ross, and the Fury and Ilccla Straits, Regent's Inlet, and the dis*
covery in 1853, by Sir James Ross, of the North Magnetic Pole."

Capt Sherard Osborn, in 1865, addressing the Royal
Geographical Society, London, said :

"In the year 1818 Baffin's discoveries on the one hand and those of
Bering upon the other, with dots for the mouths of the Mackenzie
and Iiearn Rivers, were all we knew of the strange labyrinth of lands
and waters now accurately delineated upon our charts of the Arctic
Zone. Sailors and travellers in thirty-six years have accomplished all
this ; not always, be it remembered, in well-stored ships, sailing rapidly
from point to point, but for the most part by patient toiling on foot, or
coasting in open boats round every bay and fiord. Sir Leopold Mc-
Clintocic tells the Royal Dublin Society that he estimates the foot ex..
plorations accomplished in the search for Franklin alone at about forty
thousand miles. Yet during those thirty-six years of glorious enter.,
prise by ship, by boat, and by sledge. England only fairly lost one
expedition and one hundred and twenty-eight souls out of forty-two
successive e'>^'>editions, and has never lost a sledge party out of about
one hundreu that have toiled within the Arctic Circle. • Show me
upon the globe an equal amount of geographical discovery, or in
history of arduous achievement, with a smaller amount of human sac.,
riiice, and then I will concede that Arctic Exploration has entailed
more than its due amount of suffering."

Mr. Henry Grinnel, at a meeting of the American Geo»
graphical Society of New York, enumerated the commer*
cial results as follows :

**i. Sir H. Gilbert's discovery of the Cod Fisheries of Newfound-
land. 2. From Davis' discoveries the great whale fisheries of the
West. 3. From the discoveries of Hudson (who also discovered and
sailed into our North River, which now bears his name, while on an
Arctic voyage,) Hudson's Bay and the operations of the great fur com.,
panies. 4. Sir John Ross ; the whale fishery of the North and North.,
west of Baffin's Bay. 5. Captain Perry ; whale fishery of Lancaster
Sound, Barrow Strait, and Prince Regent Inlet. 6. Admiral Beechy ;
whale fishery of Bering Straits, in which in the space of two years, the
whaler of Nantucket and New Bedford obtained cargoes from whicb
it is said they have realized eight millions of dollars."

Add to this the trade in fur-seal and seal-otter skins.
The U. S. revenue from the seal-islands of Alaska in 1873
was over $307,000, and in 188^ it had increased to over
$317,000 per annum. Wm. H. Seward, Secretary of State,
was ridiculed when he negotiated with Russia for the pur-
chase of Alaska by the United States, but that country has

^
t

FEATURES OP THE ANTARCTIC.

603

proved to be a good investment, and will develop still la^
ger resources and commercial importance in the future.

Antarctic Expeditions. — Thb "Terra Australis

Incognita."

lie
:b

Attempts to penetrate to the South Pole have not been
numerous, and are comparatively recent in date and unin-
teresting in details — but the knowledge obtained, especially
by the American expedition under Capt. Wilkes', is valuable
in a scientific point of view. — On the maps published
before 1750, the Antarctic regions are marked "Terra Aus-
tralis Incognita." Yet Ptolemy, and other ancient geo-
graphers, supposed that a large continent extended to a
great distance around the South Pole. — Capt. Cook was
the first navigator known to have crossed the Antarctic
Circle. In his second voyage he reached lat. 71° 10' S. ; he
saw no land, and encountered great masses of ice. Capt.
William Smith, the commander of a merchant vessel driven
far to the South in trying to round Cape Horn, in 18 19,
sighted the South Shetland Islands. In the same year
Bellinghausen, a Russian navigator, reached lat. 70*^ S., and
two years after discovered Alexander's Land and Peter's
Land. In 182 1, Howell, an Englishman, discovered Trin-
ity Land in 62^ S., and Palmer, an American, visited a land
on the same coast westward, and named it Palmer Land.
In 1823, Capt. Weddell, an English explorer, sailed south
to lat. 74*' 15'S., long. 34° 16' W., and saw an "open sea"
to the south, but no land. In 183 1, Capt. John Biscoe
discovered Enderby and Graham's lands, a southwestern
extension of Palmer's Land. In 1839, a New Zealand seal-
ing schooner discovered SabrinaLand. In 1837-1838-1839,
Dumont D'Urville, a French explorer, penetrated to the
Antarctic Circle, and in 1840 discovered a line of coast
lying directly south from Victoria (Australia) and named
it Ad^He. This land Capt. Ross, in his third-voyage, proved
to be small islands. In 1839, Lieut. Charles Wilkes was
sent out by the United States government with four vessels,
and in Jan. 1840 discovered a coast line which stretched

it -I

eo4

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVBRY.

S' I

< 1

from Ringgolds' Knoll on the east to Enderby Land on the
west, and was distinguished by the absence of currents to
disturb the ice barrier, and by a much less precipitous char-
acter than belongs to islands ; hence he inferred that it
was continuous, and continental. Jan. i6, 1842, Wilkes'
officers discovered land from the masthead in lat. 6i*'S.,
long. i6o*'E. and followed it to the westward ; numerous
islands were seen to the north. Capt. (afterwards Sir
James) Clarke Ross made three voyages, 1841-1843, in the
"Erebus" and "Terror," and discovered Victoria Land,
having its coast south from lat. 71'' to lat. 78'' 10' — the high-
est southern latitude ever attained. In lat. 70'' 41' S., long.
172' 30' E., he saw mountains 9,000 to 12,000 feet high, of
volcanic origin ; also an active crater which he named Mt.
"Erebus," 12,360 feet, in lat. 77° 32' S., long. 167 E., and an
extinct one, which he called Mt. Terror 10,880 feet high.
The whole line of coast was steep and rocky and the land
bare. He located the S. Magnetic Pole in lat. 75** 58' S.,
long 154*' 8' E. His discoveries in natural history, geology
and magnetism were the most important ever made in that
region, not excepting those of Lieut. Wilkes. The latter
are best related in Lieut, (afterwards Admiral) Wilkes' own
words. He says in his voluminous Narrative of five vol-
umes:

'!•?

w, f

J*" I

!",

i 1

\L%\

"Along the Antarctic Continent for the whole distance explored,
which is upwards of 1500 miles, no open strait is found. The coast,
where the ice permitted approach, was found enveloped with a per-
pendicular barrier, in some cases unbroken, for fifty miles. If there
was only a chain of islands, the outline of the ice would undoubtedly
be of another form ; and it is scarcely to be conceived that so long a
chain could extend so nearly in the same parallel of latitude. The
land has none of the abruptness of termination that the islands of
high southern latitudes exhibit; and I am satisfied that it exists in one
uninterrupted line of coast from Ringgold's Knoll, in the east, to End-
erby's Land in the west ; that the coast (at long. 95° E.) trends to the
north, and this will account for the icy barrier existing, with little alter-
nation, where it was seo.i by Cook in 1773. The vast number of ice
islands conclusively points out that there is some extensive nucleus
which retains them in their position, for I can see no reason why the
ice should not be disengaged from islands, if they were such, as hap-
pens in all other cases in like latitudes. The formation of the coast
is different from what would probably be found near islands, sound-
ings being obtained in comparatively shoal water ; and the color of
the water also indicates that it is not like other southern lands, abrupt

FBATUnZS OF THW ANTARCTia

605

a
if

tnd pr«clpltoii«. This cause is sufficient to retain the huRP masses of
ice by their being attacht-d by their lower surfaces instead of tlieir sides
only.

'* At all the important points of the cruise an observatory was estab-
bshcd, and the lonj^itiide determined by moon-culminating stars in
connection with similar observations at Cambridge (Mass,) University,
by I'rofcssor Hond, and at Washington, by Lieutenant (Jilliss. The
latitude was deduced by circummeridian cmservations of the sun and
stars; meridian distances were carried throughout the route by chron-
ometers from and to well established points; every ojiportunity was
taken to determine the true positions of islands, reefs, etc., by obser-
vations made on shore; the labors in hydrography were extensive; in
all the explorations, the constant aim was to obtain useful results; par-
ticular attention was paid to ascertain whether wood, water, and what
kind of refreshments (if any) could be had; anchorages were looked
for and survtvev', and the character of the natives and the kind of
treatment hat may be expected from them,

" In magnetism observations were made at fifty-seven stations, for
dip and intensity, and at every point where the ships remained a suf-
ficient time for diurnal variation; the <iip was observed at sea fre-
quently, and the ship's head always kept north and south whilst the
observations were making; very many attempts were made to observe
the intensity at sea, both by horizoiital and vertical vibrations, but
Wilkes was never able to satisfy himself with the results, whatever
others may have done.

" For the determination of the Southern Magnetic Pole, he had var-
iation observations from 35*^ easterly variation to 59" west, between
the longitudes of 97 ° and 165 " east, nearly on the same parallel of
latitude; which will give numerous convergent lines through that space
for its determination; the greatest dip was 87^30/ The summit of
Monna Loa, thirteen thousand four hundred feet above the level of
the sea, was among the magnetic stations; the pendulums were swung
at six stations, one of these at the summit of Monna lx)a and another
at its foot; full meteorological journals were kept during the whole
cruise — the hours of observation, 3 and 9 P. M., and 3 and 9 A. M. ;
the temperature at the masthead taken at the same hours ; that of the
air and water every hour during the cruise, at sea and in port; when
in port thermometers were sunk, and the temperature of springs, wells
and caves taken for the mean temperature of the climate.

" In botany about ten thousand species were obtained, and from
three to five specimens of each, all brought or sent home in a dried
state. About one hundred specimens of livitts^ flauts were brought
home incases; among them several East India fruits and other plants
from that region, supposed to be rarely found in European conser-
vatories. •

"In the Geological and Mineralogical Departments under Mr. Dana,
much industry and research were expended; about eleven hundred
species of Crustacea were figured; among them many new forms illus-
trative of general anatomy and physiology. In a word, extensive
collections of specimens were made in all the Departments of Natural
History."

con

rUOORKHM OK AUCTU? DIMrOVKIlY.

Tho lato I'rof. llonry of l!»o Snullisoniiin Insllhilr, Wash-
ln};t<>n. in his ivpori lor iSdy, said : " The < ollrclioiis luadi^
by the Naval iv\|u'(h(iou (ol ('apt. Wilkt-s) iS^^-iS^jt,
ate supposed greatly to exeeed those ol any other similar
iliaraeter fitted out by any j;ovenuuent. They oiiibraeo
lull series ol the animals, plants, tniiierals, ami ethnoloj;ical
material ol tl\e ie«;ions visited. Implements ol stone aiul
ol bone aio almost every wheie lound, the workinansiiip
of raees that //</.• v /v/i; .»•;//« v ,//,\,;//»^',//vv/, and of whieh the
use would bo dillienlt ol deiermination, were not similar
implements, as to Ivirm atid material, found in actual use
at the present day amonj; sav.ij;es. particularly iho.sc inluib-
itinjj the various islands of the I'aeitie Oeean."

The Royal (ieoj;raphieal J:>oeiely, ijoudon, prosontod a

foil! medal to Lieut. Wilkes, through the U. S. Minister,
Ir. Bancroft, May 22, i8.|S.

FK/\ruRivs ov riiK ANrAUcnc Ocean.

Lieut. Maury, in liis Physical (icography of the Sea
ivS6i, says that "the area of the .'\ntarclic Circle is 8,155,
600 square miles, and equal in extent to one-sixth of the
land surface of the i;lobe. — This untravelled region is cir-
cular in shape, the circumference of which does not meas-
ure less than 7,000 miles. Its edges liave been penetrated
here and there, atui land, wherever seen, has been high
and rugged. The unexplored area there is (piite ecjual to
that of our entire frigid zone. Navigators on the voyage
from the Cape of Ci{X>d Mope to Melbourne, and from
Melbourne to Cape Horn, scarcely ever venture, except
while passing Ci^pe Horn, to gi> on the Polar side of SS^'S.
The fear of icebergs deters them. These may be seen
there drifting up toward the equator in large numbers and
large masses all the year round. I have encou'U jred them
myself as high up as the parallel of 37** S. Lieut. Wilkes
supposes that these ice-islands are propelled by under-
currents which, at times, exist to and from the Poles — thtt
they are carri^ d away in the seasons when the Polar streams
are the strongest, and are borne along ty them at the ve»

mONAf, HTATfONH IN TriK AliriTrff.

loclty whh which Ihcy move. I Ic saw nf> " pack ire" — (hat
is, piocoH forced one upon (he ()(hor l>y (he acdon of the
sea or ( iinciMs."

The; i(:t;l)crj^s in the An(arc(ic are much larger and of a
<lrcp(rr hhit; than (hoso in the; Arctic Ocean; and "(he
coh)rin^ of the crevassiis, cavcH, and hollov.s is of the f//r/^-
esf hhie, a more powc^rful color than that seen ur\ the ice of
the Swiss ^hiciers. In the case of l»(;r;^'s with all their sides
cx|)os(hI, no tiouht a greater amount of h^^ht is ahh; to pen-
etrate than in glaciers where the light usually enters only
ut the top."

I.IKUTF.NANT A. W. ClfUCKI.Y, U. S. A., AT LaDV FrANK-
l,IN lUv (IklNNKI.I. LaNO. N. I. at, 8i^ 41' W,, I,<;NO.

64^ 30', Junk, 1H81, a siaiion asskink/* 10 hik I/nit-

Kl) SlAIKS IIV TIIK InIKKNATIONAI, I'(>I,AI< (COMMISSION
FOU MKTKOkOI.OCMCAI, OltSKRVATIONS. — UnIIKD StAIRS

Station nkak Point IJarrow, Alaska, N. 71*' 18'
i.AT., i.onc. W. 156** 24.' — Rkmki' kxi'koitk^ns. — Rks-

CI;E ok JilK SURVIVORS OK THE (JkKKLY i'ARTV.

The chief of the U. S. Signal Service in his report for
1881, says: "Owing to the very mobile nature of the at-
mosphere, the changes taking |)lace on our portion of the
globe, especially in the Arctic Zone, quickly affect regions
very distant therefrom. The study of the weather in lui-
rope and America (Munot be successfully prosecuted with-
out a daily map of the whole northern hemisphere, and the
great blank space of the Arctic region upon our simulta-
neous international chart has long been a subject of regret
to meteorologists. The general ol)ject (of establishing
stations as recommended by the Official International Po-
lar Commission, for the Arctic regions,) is to accom[jlish, by
observations made i 1 concert at numerous stations, such
additions to our knowledge as cannot be acquired by iso-
lated or desultory travelling parties. No special attempt
will be made at geological exploration, and neither exped-
dition (Lieut. Greely's at Lady Franklin Bay, and Lieut.
P. H. Ray's near Point Barrow, Alaska,) is in any sense
an attempt to reach the North Pole. The single object is to

COS

TBOaKBSS OF AROTtO DtflOOVKBY.

t'lucidate the phenomena of the weather and the magnetio
neoille, as ihcy occur in America and Europe, by means of
obsorvalions taken in the region where the most remark*
able disturbances seem to have their origin."

The idea of these meteorological observatories in th«
frozen seas originated in Germany about the year ift76,
and was put forth with the declai^ition that further PoW
Explorations siiould be discouraged except for purely scien«
tilic purposes. With these ends in view the stations n»med
above were established under an act of Congress, in 1881 ;
and similar stations were established, both in tbe Arctic
and Antarctic, by England and Canada, Germany, Russia,
Austria, France, Holland, Finland, Norw.iy and Sweden,
and Denmark. " If we add to all these stations those al-
reaily existing in Russia, Siberia, Alaska, the English prov-
inces of the North, etc.," says the Bulletin of the SocUti
de G(fo^f\iphie^ *' it will be seen that around the whole Polar
Circle will be a zone of observatories, whose observaMons
will form the study of the globe to the eightieth degree of
north latitude

The larger number of the civilized nations are striving
by scientific means to wrest the mysterious secrets of the
deep from their hidden recesses of tbe North."

Lieut. A. W. Greely's party was composed of Lieuts.
F. H. Kislingbury and James B. Lockwood, Dr. Octave
Pavy, acting assistant surgeon and naturalist, and 18
sergeants, corporals and privates of the U. S. nrmy. They
sailed in the U. S. steamer *^ Proteus," and reached
Godhavn July i6th, 1881. July a4th, the steamer entered
the harbor of Upernavik. Jans Edward, a native, and
Frederic Sliarley Christiansen, a half-breed, were here
engaged. The vessel left Upernavik, July 29th, sailed
northward into the "Middle P.issage, " and July 31st,
arrived, in a dense f ^, which soon lifted, six miles south
of Cape York, in 36 hours from Upernavik, the quickest
passage ever made. No ice-pack was encountered in
Baffin Bay. Two parties were landed at the Carey islands,
where the record left by Capt. Allen Young in 1375-76,
was obtained, and the depot of provisions left, by Sir
George Nares in 1875 were found in good condition. Aug
and, at Littleton Island, the English ixiaUs twere iQun4

OBBKLY KBLIKF BXPEDITIOK.

609

after seven hours search, and were sent back to be re-
turned to England. The " Polaris " winter quarters were
visited, and the transit instrument found. Aug. 3r(l, Cape
Sabine was passcdi Washington land sighted, and the 8olh
parallel crossed. Aug. 4th, Franklin Sound was passed.
At Carl Ritter Bay, 225 bread and meat rations were
cached for use in case of a retreat south in 1883. At 9
P. M. the vessel was stopped by ice, in the extreme south-
east part of Lady Franklin Bay, only eight miles from
destination. Aug. 5th Greely land at Cape Liuber. Aug,
6th the pack moved, and by Aug. loth the ship had been
forced southward hy the ice about 45 miles. Then a
southwest; gale set in and started the pack northward.
Th<L jbi . \^n north again in the open water, and entered
Disc, vt.y Harbor, where Greely decided to winter; on
the 13th the " Proteus" broke her way through two miles
of heavy ice, being her seventh day's battle with the gales
and frozen sea, and anchored Aug. 14th, one hundred
yards from shore. The cargo was discharged in 60 hours.
140 tons of coal were landed from the ship. A house was
built, 14 musk oxen killed, and rations of dried birds pro-
cured, enough meat for seven months. Lieut. Greely
expected that additional supplies would be sent to him in
1882, and if not so visited, his instructions were " to
abandon his station not later than Sept. i, 1883, and to
retreat southward b/ boat, following closely the easi coast
9/ Grtnng^ Land mIj the relieving vessel is met or Little-
ton Island is r^r

9' 4

-i

i i

list,
)uth

^est
in

»ds,

^76,
Sir

ExPEXXnONft TO CARRY ASSISTANCE TO OrBBLY IN xSSs

AND 1883.

Leaving Lieut. Greely and his party in their icebound
homCj with an definite hope of succor from the outside
world, but wii < verv appliance for the observation of
Kature^ and of ilie laws which impel the storms and cur-
rents that originate in the Arctic Circle, we turn nov.- lO the
ste:>9 that were taken in the United States, in pursuanct

610

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

i^'

of expectations justly entertained by the imprisoned men,
to send them relief in the years 1882 and 1883.

June 27th, 1882, Congress appropriated $133,000 for
the above purpose, and on July 8th, Mr. Wm. M. Beebe
was sent with men and supplies in the " Neptune," Capt.
Sopp. The ship encountered solid ice-packs, which Mr.
Beebe says, was the " heavy winter ice, which, borne from
the eastern coast of Greenland by the strong current
which sets southward from about Iceland, turns to the
westward and northward around Cape Farewell, and flows
up the western coast of Greenlaic^ until, in about lat. Sj"
N. it meets and mingles with ti . .ent from Baffin's
Bay. These united currents set ; hward with great
strength down the coast of Labrador, and trending east-
ward, pass around and down the eastern coast of New-
foundland and into the Gulf Stream, carrying with them
the immense icebergs launched from the numerous glaciers
of West Greenland, and so much of the ice-fields as had
survived the passage fron Davis Strait." July 17th, the
" Neptune " reached Godhavn. On the 28th she passed
Littleton Island, where her progress northward was
blocked by unbroken ice, as thick as 20 feet. She turned
to the south, and anchored in Pandora Harbor, where she
found a record of Sir Allen Young's visit in the " Pandora,"
in 1875, and also plenty of hares, eider-ducks, auks and
gulls, which the crew killed and ate greedily. The north-
west gales which dispersed the ice, enabled the "Neptune"
Aug. 7th, to turn back to the north, and to make Payer
Harbor on the iSth, in lat. 78'' 42' N., long. 74° 21'. At
Brevoort and an adjoining island, were found the records
and cache of Capts. Nares and Stephenson. Further prog-
ress northward was checked, and the ship anchored off
Littleton Island Aug. 28th. A party landed, and left a
cache of provisions there and also at Cape Sabine. As it
appeared impossible to reach Greely's station at Lady
Franklin Bay, the ship returned to Godhavn Sept. 8th,
and thence to St. Johns, Newfoundland. All relief for
Greely, all expectation of receiving news from his party,
was postponed to 1883. — Thus the "Proteus," in 1881,
found almost open water and few dangerous ice-fields as
far north as 81° 44'; the "Neptune" was blockaded about

ned men,

3.000 for
^. Beebe
e," Capt.
hich Mr.
►me from
I current
IS to the
md flows
t lat. ej"*
. Baffin's,
ith great
ing east-
of New-
ith them
> glaciers
) as had
r7th, the
e passed
ird was
e turned
lere she
mdora,"
uks and
le north-
eptune "
e Payer

!I'. At
records
er prog-
ored off
d left a
. As it
It Lady
ipt. 8th,
lief for
s party,
1 1881,
elds as
d about

p-^t i^et--^ -^^^^^^^ fain to .etu™ after a ,U

teer from I J ^Z"P°" ^nd Lieut r Cn P°?,''a™ July
j6/ii. TJo!- ^,-; 'fi 'Oat harbor •ii•S•e^tl^„3^-'7■

vv. i^reely Fifth Ca

^nd supposed tVb^ Caoe Vn''^ ^ ^^V % aboui s^v^ •?' '^^'' ="d
be .«/,>,/^ ««,^,,^^^^^;Pe Vork Middle passage taTen^'i^'^ /°"'^ ^^
I. 1881. *''' °y ^ce. All well. This Sr.f;!^ j *"^ ^°"nd to

*ni& notice deposited Aug.

612

PBOOBBSS OF A£CTIO DISCOVERT.

ip,

600 yards from the open water, and Capt. Pike's efforts
to force a passage by ramming entirely failed." On July
2 2d, the " Proteus " turned south and endeavored to get
out of the pack, but found all movement effectually
blocked. Ice seven feet thick was piled upon the floe
amidships and astern, and crushed against the ship's sides
and into her bunker — the starboard rail was smashed, the
deck planks rose, the seams opened, and at 7.15 P. M.
the ship sank " on an even keel." One of the boats and
some of the stores were saved by the officers (while the
crew plundered the boxes) before this catastrophe oc-
curred ; a cache was made by Lieut, Colwell at Cape
Sabine for Lieut. Greely's party, and he then headed across
Melville Bay, in his boat, to reach the " Yantic," while the
rest of the party coasted around the Bay to the same
destination. Sept. 2nd, the latter party boarded the
" Yantic " at Upernavik, and and Lieut. Colwell joined
her soon afterwards at Godhavn. The whole party re-
turned to St. John's Sept. 13th, 1883. Thus Lieut. Greely
and his companionSj exiled for three winters in the inter-
ests of science, were perforce left to their fate until the
summer of 1884.

Point Barrow, Alaska. — We have previously referred
to the station established near this point, in the interest
of the U. S. Signal Service. It was put in charge of First
r-: I't. P. H. Ray, 8th Infantry U. S. A., who sailed from
Sau Francisco in the steamer " Golden Fleece," July i8th,
1881, accompanied by Acting-Assistant Surgeon G. S.
Oldmixon, three sergeants and eight subordinates, Sept.
15th, he reported to General W. B. Hazen, Chief Signal
officer, U. S. A., substantially as follows : — " The expedition
arrived at Ooglamie [name of an Indian village], Alaska,
Sept. 8th, and found a suitable place for the station on
the northeast side of a small inlet which I have named
Golden Fleece, about eight miles from the extreme
northern point of Point Barrow ; all the intermediate
country is interspersed with small lakes and lagoons ; the
only high ground is occupied by an Indian village at
Point Barrow. The voyage was a long one ; a heavy gale
off Cape Lisburne drove us out of our course to the north
and west. The ground is now covered with snow : ice is

tHX SEASONS AT POINT SABBOW.

s efforts
3n July
i to get
factually
the floe
p's sides
ihed, the
5 P. M.
)ats and
vhile the
)phe oc-
at Cape
id across
vhile the
he same
ded the
il joined
)arty re-
it. Greely
;he inter-
until the

referred
interest
of First
led from
ily i8th,
.n G. S.
Sept.
if Signal
[pedition
Alaska,
ition on
named
ixtreme
lediate
ins; the
^lage at
jivy gale
le north
ice is

forming rapidly on the inlet and lakes ; the cargo was
landed with extreme difficulty on the beach, through a
heavy surf which half filled our boats, the spray freezing
where it struck ; the vessel liable to be driven out to sea
at any hour. There will still be more or less suffering
before I can get quarters up . . . On the 12th, a small
wliarf was built, the wind and sea abated ; and on the 13th
and 14th the balance of the cargo was safely landed — the
natives assisting with their oomiaks. I cannot detain the
vessel foi fear she may be frozen in before passing Bering
Strait ... If I procure specimens of native arms, boats,
implements, etc., I will have to purchase them in trade.
I have not a sufficient supply for that purpose, having
only taken enough to purchase fresh meat and to hire
boats and labor in landings .... The (relief) vessel
next year should sail at an earlier date than the expedi-
tion this year ; have not seen the sun since I have been
here. The latitude, by dead reckoning from my own-
log-book, is 71° 17' 50'' N., long, ise^' 23' 45" W."

June 24th, 1882, Lieut. J. S. Powell, U. S. A., sailed
from San Francisco in the schooner " Leo " with supplies
for Lieut. Ray. In Bering Sea, the ship met a heavy gale,
from the north, and lay for several days in a fog without
sight of land or sun, about four miles from Plover Bay.
In the 14th in a heavy gale. Cape Lisburne was sighted ;
on the i8th the ship was becalmed in lat. 71° 21' N., long.
158^ 50' W. ; on the 19th, a strong northeast current had
carried the ship to the northeast of Point Barrow, but she
landed at the station Aug. 20th. Lieut. Ray said that
had it become calm, the " Leo " might have drifted to the
northeast, for vessels caught in the northeast current move
off with it, " and not a piece of timber ever returns."
Lieut. Powell says (U. S. Signal Service Notes, No. X.) : —

* The prospect from the Station even in summer, when it is at its
best, is monotonous, uninviting, and in winter it must be dreary in-
deed. The tundra spreads away level and brown, relieved here and
there by patches of sickly green, guttered in all directions by shallow
water-courses, and covered with small shallow pools, while at no point
within view does it reach an elevation of fifty feet above the level of
the sea. Vegetation is very scanty, consisting chiefly of moss and
lichens and oth?r cryptogamous growths, with occasional patches o|

014

PBOGRBSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

hard, wiry griss, and a few simple flowers. The only shrub to be
found is the dwarf willow, which, instead of growing in an erect pos«
ition, creeps along under the moss as if trying to hide from the in-
clement blasts, and in summer it shoots forth its pretty rose-colored
catskins and green leaves through its mossy covering in a timid and
hesitating manner, as if aware ofthe uncongenial character of its sur<
roundings.

" During eight months of the year the earth is frozen, and during
the remaining four it thaws to the depth of a foot from the surface,
but below that depth it is permanently frozen to an unknown depth,
probably one hundred and fifty feet to two hundred feet. It is a des-
olate land, interesting no doubt, but destitute of beauty, one in which
the struggle for existence, both by animal and vegetable life, is of the
hardest, where the aspects of nature are harsh withou grandeur and
desolate without being picturesque.

"The year is divided into seasons, — a winter eight months long and
a rather uncertain summer of four months. The latter season, if sum<
mer it can be called, is only such by contrast with the preceding winter,
for the temperature rarely reaches 60", and at any time a snow-storm
may occur. Snow fell on every day we were at the station. The low-
est temperature was 60** below-zero, there was but one day only on
which the sun shone sufficiently to make observations. The sea at
Point Barrow does not freeze to a greater depth than six or seven feet;
the ice with which it is filled comes from a distance, and is generally
a mixture of new and old worn ice. There is nothing in this sea ap-
proaching an iceberg, but still some very respectable masses are formed,
especially near the coast, where the pressure of the moving floes from
without IS met by the resistance of the land, and huge fields of ice are
driven over each other until they become grounded in water from fifteen
to twenty fathoms deep and are piled up some forty or fifty feet. No
doubt the grandeur and sublimity given, to Arctic scenery by the im-
mensity of icebergs are here wanting, but the immensity of power dis-
played by these enormous ice masses is more calculated to impress the
mind than the mere bulk of lofty bergs that stud the sea on the eastern
side of the continent. The broken floes are thrown together in every
conceivable position, and at every possible inclination of surface, in
a profusion of irregularity, of which no language can convey an ade-
quate idea. Travelling over such a surface is next to impossible, men
without encumbrances could possibly advance eight or ten miles in a
day, but if laden with food or otherwise, their progress would be far
less than this — heavy ice-sleds would be almost impossible. Wher-
ever there is land there is always an ice-foot, a narrow strip of level
ice along the coast, over which sled-travel can be easily carried on, cr
in narrow channels without currents, where the ice may be compar-
atively smooth, but in the open sea, at a distance from land, nothing
but failure will attend such attempts. The fringe of grounded ice along
the Point Barrow coast follows an irregular line, more or less distant
from the shore, depending on the depth of the water, and varies from
three to five miles in width.

** Beyond the grounded line, the surface of the hummocks and floti
if just as rough and uneven as it is everywhere else. Although to tho

THK SEASONS AT POINT BABBOW.

615

to be

ice are

fifteen

;he im-

rer dis-

!ss the

lastern

every

ice, in

ade-

men

in a

le far

^her-

level

)n, or

iipar-

[thing

ilong

Istant

Ifrom

Ifloti
tho

eye the broad expanse of jumbled ice-hummocks seems as stable as
the solid land, the stability is only apparent ; a kind of vibratory motion
takes place from time tutime; the pressure increases and decreases
alternately; currents set in, and the whole body of the ice seems to
oscillate to and fro, so that it is seldom that the peculiar noises oc-
casioned by the grinding and crushing together of the slowly moving
masses cannot be heard. This song of the icy sea is a very peculiar
one, and can scarcely be described so as to convey any clear idea of
its nature. It is not loud, yet it can be heard to a great distance; it
is neither a surge nor a swash, but a kind of slow, crashing, groaning,
shrieking sound, in which sharp, silvery tinklings mingle with the low
thunderous undertone of a rushing tempest. It impresses one with
the idea of nearness and distance at the same time, and also that of
immense forces in conflict. When this confused fantasia is heard from
afar, throngh the stillness of this Arctic zone, the effect is strangely
weird and solemn — as if it were the distant hum of an active, living
world breaking across the boundaries of silence, solitude and death.

" Individual auroras often lasted ten or twelve hours or more, but the
great bursts of splendor .ind motion seldom lasted more than thirty
minutes, and often did not continuoeven so long; but while they lasted
they were magaificcnt, indeed. On such occasions the sky became a
gorgeous canopy of flames, all splendor, color and motion; arch, col-
umn, and banner flashed and faded; silvery rays, with rosy bases and
fringed with gold or emerald green, danced and whirled around the
zenith, and broad curtains of light f.ung across the sky in every form
of gracetul curve and convohuion, shook rainbow tints from every
fold, until the beholder becajne bewildered and lost in the dazzling
brilliancy.

" In lower latitudes, the aurora is mostly seen as a luminous arch
extending across the northern sky. At Point Barrow, the arched form,
though common, was not the prevalent one, and the arches that ap-
peared were seldom perfect, or if so, only for a few moments at a time,
and the changes of form were so incessant that it was hard to decide
which was the prevailing type. The curtain form, mostly broken, but
always convoluted and folded on itself like an immense scroll, was a
common form, but whatever the form, the phenomena passed over the
sky in a succession of waves, sometimes from north to south and vice
versa Intimately connected with the aurora was the disturbance of
the magnetic needle — i^i fact, during the prevalence of the aurora, the
magnets were in a state of chronic perturbation, especially during tha
great displays, when they were often so disturbed that some of them
could not be read.

** Having turned over all supplies to Lieut. Kay, Sunday, August
27, preparations were made to leave this dreary region — a region which
seems to be one in which the bright sunshine of hope enters with a
light so subdued that it is but the gleam from a far distant planet pen-
etrating the cavern of ceaseless solitude and woe.

" Anchor was weighed at 2 P. M., Sunday, and our homeward voy-
age begun in a snow-storm. We passed Point Belcher, August 28tK
reached East Cape, Asia, Saturday, September 20, and lay there Suty
day and Monday. We sailed from East Cape to St. Lawrence Bay,
and anchored inside the harbor at 3 P. M. next day. This bay is full

616

l>hOOtn?B8 6fr AttCTlC mSCOVERY.

of historic reminiscences connected with the burning of the U. S.
Steamer • Rodgcrs ' of the Jeannette Relief Expedition. The natives
came on hoard clothed in some of the apparel left them by the officers,
and crew of this ill-fated vessel. Several had recommendations from
the " Rodgers" party, and in compliance with requests made therein,
each one was supplied with tobacco, bread and molasses. One of the
natives described to me the accident which befel Master Putnam of
the Navy, and stated that some time after the ice-floe, bearing Putnam,
drifted out to sea, a south easterly wind brought the tioc back to shore,
and he saw the remains of Putnam on it, his face and hands much dis'
colored and the body swollen.

" On the 28th of September, in Bering Sea, the barometer com*
menced falling rapidly, and a fierce gale sprang up from the East, which
soon blew with so much violence that we were obliged to take in .ill
our canvas and heave to under a double-reefed mainsail and foresail
On the next day it increased in fury, and for the next d.iy, and the next,
and for full five, we were tossed to and fro, at the mercy of such a
storm as I hope I shall never again experience. Hy the time the storm
was over, the entire party were worn out, and the patience exhibited
under such circumstances certainly became a virtue. We passed
through Unimak Pass on the 5th of October. Our voyage from
thence across the Pacific to San Francisco was, on the whole, favor*
able, and we reached the latter place October 2."

Lieutenant Ray's party were recalled by act of Congress
1882-1883, and arrived at Washington, October 1883. Thus
ended for the present, L / command of the Nation — appalled
at the hardships imposed on its brave sailors without com-
pensating advantages — our permanent stations in the Arc-
tic Seas for meteorological observations, and researches in
natural history and ethnology. The territory of the United
States (even in Alaska) is sufficiently extensive to locate
observatories and Signal Stations at points in the country
where the observers are not isolated from mankind, or in
danger of starvation and pitiless cold. The exploration of
(rigid and inclement regions can safely be left to the ad-
venturous spirit of individuals, at least until we forget the
terrible sufferings of De Long's train of stiffened corpses
•nd Greely'» dead and mutilated comrades.

UFB AT FOBT CONQES.

617

le U. S.

ic natives
c officers,
ions from
e therein,
)ne of the
•utnam o(
; Putnam,
: to shore,
much dis*

cter com'
,ast, which
akc in all
d foresail
1 the next,
of such a
: the storm
: exhibited
^e passed
yage from
ole, favor-

Dongress

I. Thus

appalled

out com-

he Arc-

irches in

United

locate

country

d, or in

ation ot

the ad-

rget the

corpses

Lieutenant Greely and his Men.

Life at Fort Conger, Discovery Bay, 1881, 1882, 1883- •
Departure of the "Proteus'^ August 18, 1881 — Thrc^
years' observations, researches and explorations towards
the Pole. — Non-Arrival of Succor, and retreat southwards
in August, 1883 — Arrival at Cape Sabine October 31,
1883 — Removal to Camp Clay Nov. i — SuiTering, Star-
vation, Death — Rescue by the Bear and Thetis^ June 22,
1884 — Arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland, July 17, 1884.

We left Lieut. Greely and his little colony at Discovery
Bay in August, 1881, busily preparing their camp ou ihe
shore. Thu house which they built measured 6i-4-2o feet,
and was made as secure as possible against the violent
winds and colds of the Arctic winter. The station was
named Fort Conger, after Senator Conger of Michigan, who
secured the passage of the act of Congress under which
the expedition was organized. August i8th, 1881, the
•' Proteus," having landed her supplies, sailed for the Un-
ited States; and from that date until July 17, 1884, when
the six survivors and 18 shrunken bodies enclosed in iron
coflfins, were landed at St. Johns by the Relief ships under
Commanders W. S. Schley, George W. Coffin, and
Lieut. Wm. H. Emory, of the Bear^ Thetis and Loch Garry
nothing whatever had been heard from Lieut Greely and
his men ; they were silent to all the world for nearly three
years — prisoners in the frozen North — but not unmindful
of the arduous duties which they had been deputed by their
countrymen to perform. The expeditions of 1882 and 1883
had failed to reach their ice-beleaguered home — yet, but for
the provisions cached at Cape Sabine by Beebe, in 1882,
and by Lieuts. Garlington and Colwell in 1883, together
with those deposited at Payer Harbor and Cape Isabella
by Sir George Nares in 1875^ — nothing but the bones and
relics of any of Greely's party would ever have been re-
covered. If the 250 rajtions left by the " Neptune " in
1882, at Littleton Island, across the open water from Cape
Sabine, could have been reached by Greely's men iv tbt

618

PROORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

i i ■

winter of 1883, 1884 — all might: have been saved ; but, un-
fortunately, the violent gales which prevailed all winter,
and the loss of their boats, prevented their crossing Smith
Sound to get these provisions.

The exploring party consisted of twenty-five men, in-
cluding Lieut. A. W. Grkklv, of the Fifth U. S. Cavalry ;
Lieut. Frederick F. Kislinburv, of the Eleventh Infantry;
Lieut. James B. Lockwood, of the Twenty-third Infantry;
Acting Assistant Surgeon Octave Pavv,M. I)., nineteen
non-commissioned officers, and privates, and the two
Esquimaux who were taken aboard at Upernavik. The
arrangements for the comfort and security of the men left
nothing to be desired, and Lieutenant Ckeelv's manage-
ment was in the highest degree judicious. There was no
sickness in the party. The men were kept in good health
and spirits by active employment, and such amusements
as were possible under the circumstances. Lieutenant
Greely and Dr. Pavy occasionally gave the men lectures
on various subjects, and each man was allowed to celebrate
his birthday by choosing the dinntw, of which all partook.
No jealousies or dissensions marred the harmony of the
little band. The discipline was of necessity rigid, but kind.
A sense of fraternity and common dependence ruled the
spirits of all. Even the failure to receive supplies and
news from home does not appear to have made the men
despondent.

From August 188 1 to August 1883, when, failing to re-
ceive supplies, Lieut. Greely abandoned Fort Conger and
retreated south to Cape Sabine, the members of the party
were actively engaged in explorations and researches.
During the long arctic night, utterly without sunlight for
135 days, they lived in a house within a house. They
breakfasted at eight, lunched lightly at 11 A. M. and 9
P. M., and dined at 4 P. M. Observations were taken daily
in meteorology, astronomy, magnetism, sea temperatures,
ice thicknesses, tidal motion, and velocity of sound at dif-
ferent temperatures. Military discipline, one hour's exer-
cise per day, and a weekly bath were required of all. The
living apartments were kept clean. National holidays
were observed with an extra dinner, and an interchange of
presents on Christmas. Thus the dread disease of scurvy,

INCREASING EIGOR OP CLIMATE.

61S

to re-

;r and
party

Lrches.

(ht for

They

ind 9

daily

Itures,
It dif-
lexer-
The
lidays
Igeof
urvy,

which wore out two ships' crews for Nares, was prevented,
and a fairly contented life enjoyed.

Arctic research has advanced about three hundred miles
northward since IJaffin immortalized himself in the year
1616. Parry, in iSzy reached latitude yg'' ; Kane, So**
30' in 1S54; Hayes, Si*' 30' in 1861; Hall, 82^ 16' in
187 1 ; and Nares, 83° 20' in 1876. Lieutenant Lockwood
stopped at latitude 83*-' 24,' but saw and computed 83** 35',
which most northern land now known, he called Cape
Robert Lincoln. The journey to and from this point oc*
cupied fifty-nine days. At a temperature of minus sixty-
one degrees, hares, lemmings, ptarmigan, snow-birds, snowy
ovvls, polar bears, musk-oxen, and even vegetation, exist
and thrive. Grinnell Land was quite thoroughly explored.
Nordenskiold discovered that, late in the summer, great
rivers, formed of melted ice, with icy beds and banks, make
travel in the north impossible without small boats. Lake
Hazer 'ed by streams from the ice-cap of northern Grin-
nell \ and emptying into Weyprecht Fiord, was dis-
coveicu m April, some miles inJand from Archer Fiord,
when some open water was seen. Doubtless, in A.ugust, a
much larger sized lake, fed by innumerable iarge and swift
flowing rivers, would have been found. Thl'i lake, named
after General Hazen, is the most northern fresh-water body
on the globe, one-fourth in size of Lake Erie, and well
stocked with fish. Lying contiguously to it, and parallel
with the United States Mountains, were two ranges named
after Senator Conger and President Garfield. The
highest land in the latter range, and indeed of all the coun-
try north of Disco Bay, was named Arthur Peak. It is
5000 feet in height.

On the shores of Lake Hazen the remains of an Esqui-
mau village were found, apparently the most northern hab-
itation attempted by the Esquimaux. Here were evidences
of possession by this people of dogs, sledges and iron. It
would argue that at no distant period there was a beautiful
valley about the lake with an abundance of vegetation and
game. That the rigors of the most northern climate are
slowly advancing south is evident in the gradual retreat of
the Esquimaux. From this high latitude tnty have been
forced several degrees, and that for no lau/ of game. Ad(>

620

PBOQBESS OF ABCTIO DISCOVBBT.

llV.

to this the migration of Icelanders to Manitoba, after bo
coming hereditarily inured to the climate through an ances-
try dating back a thousand years. It is relevant to note
that in 18^4 Scandinavian seai-men found an open winter,
the snow melting as it fell. Kane, in the winter of 185 1,
recorded an average temperature of about minus 5**. The
Polaris expedition during the winter of 1872-3 experienced
a temperature of minus 40**. Dr. Hall said that the mer-
cury froz€. Lieutenant Greely, ten years later, recorded
a mean thermometer of minus 41 ** with a maximum of
minus 624** — the lowest degree of any duration yet noted.

Among the many interesting discoveries of the party were
some enormous glaciers. Many were found by Lieutenant
Greely in the vicinity of Lake Hazen, the largest of which
was named Henrietta Nesmith. This is the third promi-
nent feature of the Arctics named after women. The
others are Lady Franklin Bay, and Victoria and Albert
Mountains. The largest glacier discovered, and perhaps
in existence, was found beyond Lake Hazen, in Grinnell
Land, toward the Polar ocean, and was named after Agas-
siz. It resembles the great wall of China, and was at first
so christened. It formed the southern ice-cap of Grinnell
Land, and is separated from the northern ice cap by sixty
miles. Locking out on the Polar sea, not far from this
glacier. Lieutenant Lockwood saw the northern termination
0^ Grinnell Lan\ , which he named after Sergeant Brain-
ARD, who followed him persistently and faithfully during
the long. arctic night. To the south the southern termi-
nation v/as seen, and called Cape Lockwood. Beyond was
open water, and across that a new country, which was
named after President Arthur. Grinnell Land, so thor-
oughly explored by the Greely party, may be called the
land of glaciers. The Agassiz Glacier is now the most
northern, and those of the Grand Tetons, in Wyoming, ihe
most southern, known to North America.

Geographically, though few changes in Polar maps were
found necessary, the discoveries are not without interest.
Cape Britannia — the furthest northern point on the Green-
land toast seen by Beaumont, is not, as the English ex-
plorer supposed the northern, but the southwestern end of
an island. Lieut. liOckwood went some distance beyond

of
id

THE " FAIITHEST NOETH."

the island which bears his name, but could not get ac-
curate observations on account of th^ shadows of the clifis;
hence he made his official " farthest North," at Lockwood
Island, and unfurled the American -lag four miles nearer
the Pole than Nares had planted the British ensign ; and
beyond this point, the northern coast of Greenland was
surveyed for several miles and depicted on his map. The
Esquimau relics collected at Fort Conger were the most
complete ever found, but had to be boxed up and left there.
The moss which the Greely party boiled with their seal-
skin boots at Cape Sabine is almost exactly like the gray
moss which grows on the New England rocks, and has
little or no nutriment in it. Near the grave of Lieut. Lock-
wood there was growing when the relief party arrived, some
beautiful flowering moss, and a clump of it, with its purple
flowers, was brought home by one of the officers, to the
family of the dead explorer, together with the flag that he
unfurled at his " farthest North."

Lieutenant Greely. in a dispatch from St. John's, Aug.
17, 1884 — thus summarizes the results of his explorations :

" For the first time in three centuries England yields the honor of
the furthest north. Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard,
May 13, reached Lockwood Island, latitude 83" 24' north, longitude
44" s' west. They saw from 2000 feet elevation no land north or
northwest, but to noriheast Greenland, Cape Robert Lincoln, latitude
83" 35' longitude 38''. Lieutenant Lockwood was turned back in
1883 oy open water on North Greenland shore, party barely escaping
drift in Polar Ocean. Dr Parry, in 1882, following Markham's
route, was adrift one day in Polar Ocean north of Cape Joseph Henry,
and escaped to land, abandoning nearly everything.

•* In 1882 I made a spring and later summer trip into the intericnrof
Grinnell Land, discovering Lake Ilazen, some sixty by ten miles in
extent, which, fed by ice caps of North Grinnell Land, drains Roggles
River and Weyprecht Fiord into Conybeare Bay and Arche/ Fiord.
From the summit of Mount Arthur, 5000 feet, the contour of Ian<i
west of the Conger Mountains convinced me that Grinnell Land trav»
els directly south from Lieutenant Aldrich's furthest in 1876.

" In 1883 Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard sue.
eeeded in crossing Grinnell Lanr*, and ninety miles from Beatrix Bay,
the head of Archer Fiord, struck the head of a fiord from the westeri
sea, temporarily named by Lockwood the Greely Fiord. From th<
centre of the fiord, in latitude 80'-' 30' longitude 78" 30', Lieutenant
Lockwood saw the northern shore termination, some twenty milei
west, the southern shore extending some fifty miles, with Cape Lock
wood some seventy miles di.stant— apparently a separate !and fro*'

622

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY,

Grinnell Land. Have named the netvr land Arthur Land. Lieutent
ant LocKWooD followed, going and returning, on ice cape averaging
about one hundred and fifty feet perpendicular face. It follows that
the Grinnell Land interior is ice-capped, with a belt of country soma
sixty miles wide between the northern and southern ice capes.

" In March, 1884, Sergeant Long, while hunting from the northwest
side of Mount Carey to Hayes sound, saw on the northern coast three
capes westward of the furthest seen by Narks in 1876. The sound
extends some twenty miles further west than is shown by the English
chart, but is possibly shut in by land which showed up across the
western end.

" The two years' station duties, observations, all explorations, and
the retreat to Cape Sabine were accomplished without ]os:> of life, dis-
ease, serious accident, or even severe frost-bites. No scurv; was ex-
perienced at Conger, and but one death occurred from it last winter."

On the 9th of August, 1883, Lieut. Greely, in pursuance
of his instructions in 188 1, left Fort Conger, and reached
Baird Inlet on Sept. 29. Here he was compelled to aban-
don his boats, and drifted 30 days on an ice floe in Smith
Sound. Intense suffering was endured by the heroic men,
and many signal acts of bravery and humanity pertormed
for the preservation of all. Sergeant Brainard, in a merci-
less storm, rescued three of his comraclesy>v^2;^« together in
a bag^ and warmed them back to life. Oct. 31, the floe was
driven upon Cape Sabine, and here the whole party landed,
and pitched their camp, naming it Camp C'lay. During
nine months they lived upon the small amount of food
brought from Fort Conger, that cached by Nares in 1875,
which was found much damaged by the lapse of time, and
that stored by Beebe's relief expedition in 1882, and by
Lieut. Col well from the wreck of the '* Proteus," at Cape
Sabine, in 1883. When these provisions gave out, the
starved men ate boiled bcal-skin strips from their seal-skin
clothing, lichens, and shrimps, of which it took 1300 to fill
a gallon measure. One by one they died, until only seven
were left alive when Lieut. Schley's Rescue party arrived
at Cape Sabine on Sunday, June 22, 1884.

The Relief Expeditiojj : — The Bear, the Thetis^ and
the Alert, were fitted out at the Brooklyn Navy Yard by
order of the U. S. Government, in April, 1884, and sailed
from the port of New York April 24. and May i-io, under
Commanders W. S. Schley, Geo. W. Coffin, and Lieut.
W, H. Emory, for the relief of Lieut. Greely's party. The

THE REtlEF EXPEDITION.

623

Lieutent
: averaging
ollows that
untry soma
les.

; northwest
:oast three
The sounci
he English
across the

itions, and
3f life, dis-^
Vj was ex-
st winter."

ursuance
reached
to aban-
in Smith
o;c men,
?rtormed
a merci-
gcther in
floe was
landed,
During
of food
in 1875,
ne, and
and by
t Cape
ut, the
al-skin
to fill
seven
rrived

\is^ and
ird bv
sailed
under

I Lieut.
The

Bear was bought at St. John's, Newfoundland,
and +he Thetis was purchased by the government
at London, England. The Bear was built as a
sealing, and the 7%e/w as a whaling steamer, at
Dundee, Scotland, and were each about 210 ft.
long, 30 ft. in breadth, 19 ft. in depth, and of 490
tons capacity. These ships vere strengthened
in every part so as to bear the strain of Arctic
navigation, and provided with stores and every
appliance to promote the safety and health of
the crew. The Alert was the advance ship
of Sir George Nares' English Expedition in 1876,
and was donated by the British Government ex-
pressly for this expedition of relief, as a grate-
ful return for the Resolute, presented to
Queen Victoria, eighteen years before, by the
government of the United States, under the fol-
lowing extraordinary circumstances: — In Sep-
tember, 1855, the Captain fames Budington, a
New London, Conn., whaler, while drifting in tho
ice of Baffin's Bay, espied a ship twenty miles
away. For a week the two vessels approac^ '4
each other, and finally the stranger was Doaracd.
It was the famous Resolute, one of the fleet of
Sir E. Belcher, sent in search of the Franklin
expedition, in 1852-1854, and abandoned, two
years before, hundreds of miles away in Lancas-
ter Sound. The motto could still be read over
the helm, "England expects every man to do
his auty," but there was not a soul on board.
The abandoned ship was carried into an Ameri-
can port, where she was subsequently purchased
and refitted by order of Congress. In the
autumn of 1856 the vessel was manned with an
American crew, taken to England and formally
presented to Queen Victoria by Capt. Hartstene
in person, aftcx' his rescue of Dr. Kane. Before
being sent across the Atlantic the Alert was fit-
ted up with new rigging and spars, and her bow
was strengthened with iron plates. In the
Brooklyn I^avy Yard she was further prepared

lilih

et4

^HOGltESS OF ARCTIC BTScOriSRV.

company wHh^ ^ "'^ ■*«'^'- and thl^^°S^'"«»s.
where they milhth'^ ''^'"t' uovvr in a r. ?'"'

about ^tour^S^eV" 'V"« ^o'" re^orr^t^

nine feet ?„d'" ^"""y ^^5 tent njlf."?' "fe-
the northeast %« P'^^^ed H-ith 'its one^f* ^^
rockafortuna;^!^* ''""^e was built ^^^""^ *<»
"'hen they ^tV?°'* "ear by^%^l ^«a"

RESCUE OF THE DEAD AND DYING

6S5

to transport them from any distance. These
stones were about six inches thick, and piled to
a height of three feet, covering a space 2 5- 17 feet.
Over the centre was laid the Neptune's whale-boat,
forming a ridge-pole, and canvas was stretched
across this for a roof. Blocks of snow were
banked on the outside to keep out the wind.
The door was on the south side, and was about
two and a half feet by three feet, with a covered
tunnel of the same size running out about
twenty-five feet. There were no windows, and
their only source of light during the dark, dreary
winter nights was an Esquimaux blubber lamp. ^

The first words that gave signs of life to the
rescuing party were those of Greely, who said,
in a feeble voice, "Cut the tent." The front
and western sides had blown down, and the
poles were lying across three of the party, who
were stretched out in their sleeping-bags, en-
tirely too weak to lift the burden off. They had
been in this condition sixty-two hours. The few
survivors were dying of starvation and cold. A
furious gale was blowing, and had succor been a
little delayed, not one would have been found
alive. Very tenderly the heroic men were cared
for. Food was given them with great caution,
and as soon as possible they were taken on board
the ships, with the bodies of the dead that could
be recovered. Only seven out of the twenty-five
were living. They were Lieutenant Greely, Ser-
geant Brainard, Sergeant Fredericks, Sergeant
Long, Sergeant Elison, Hospital Steward Bieder-
beck, and Private Connell. Greely, too weak to
walk, was carried to the launch in a canvas
stretcher, while the others were borne through
the gale by the sailors.

After securing all the records and instruments
belonging to the party, the ships steamed toward
Disco. The Alert was met on the way, struggling
bravely through the ice, in company with the
transport Loch Garry ^ and on the 5 th of July the

■

1 1

I i

626

mORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

Ships anchored at Disco q

soon after undereofn^Vt,^^''^^^^^ ^Hson died
hands and feet S. h.^^ ^^^P^tation of Ws
during an exped tion n L '^'^u^^^^^ ^^dly frozen
mams of Freder k ChSn'^ ^^' ^°°^- The 4^
the grrave-vard af r^^f ^^®^^^ ^ere interr^^ f
placid in a fo1i"b?j„*^f ,-1^^- deaTwe^e
morning of Tulv othfi ""^^^'^ home. On fh!

Greely, clothed inVhiL f V^J^ ^"''e- Ueut

of I.ieut. Powell. In *hl ' '^''"'."^ on the arm
Chandler addreW^t I, ^ evening- SecretT^
counting the event o/tr.°P'",°"^^«^o Halt'^r^
expeditions. L^eut Grill ^^^P'?""? and relief
^as read to the meeti^l "^^^f"* ?> i^«er which
for E moment in our da?UiJ ^""^ *'^='t "never
did we doubt tw f r r* °^ gloomiest hour

planning for our rescue ^F^""'^ People were
food failed and mended twT- :^^y *° day al
tainty gave strength to 7,'«, V-^^ ""^ that cer-
, Aug. 8th the relief Ihint !""? "li^^'"
Island, in New York h?., '""''^^ ** Governor's

north of Bedloe's Island te ^^^^ ancho?e|
twguished from oth^r , J'^^J'.^'ere easily dia-

black, sombre-lookht hulI.'''K I ^^"^^ heaw
a^^^their topmast heafs^^i'd'' th^^e ''^^'■"^^-"esTs
""^st- ThereraainsofLient; i i'^^s at half.

Officers, including Confmf ^ ^ ®^'^^^® and navS

fi«. and I.ieut. Emorr^eTe nu? ^'^'"^ ^^^ C^S

y, were put on board the tug-

CANNIBALISM IMPUTED.

627

)r's

Caialpa, and conducted to Governor's Island,
where they were received by Major General Han-
cock and his s*-'\lf, Secretary Lincoln, General
Sheridan, Gen. riazen, and all the available troops
of the 5th Artillery, with the regimental band
and the relatives and friends of the dead ex-
plorers. The coffins were put on caissons, and
borne by the procession to the hospital on the
north shore of the island, near Castie William.
They were placed on biers in a darkened room
in the east wing of the hospital. No cannons
were fired at Governor's Island while the remains
rested there, except the gun which, at reveille
and retreat, salutes the rising and setting sun.

A mournful incident connect 3d with this sol-
emn reception of the dead, was the presence of
Lieutenant Kislinbury's son, about ten years
old, accompanied by the lamented officer's two
brothers. The little mourner walked with
drooping head and tear-filled eyes between his
uncles, until Secretary Lincoln, remembering
no doubt how he had seen his own martyred
father, Abraham Lincoln, borne to the tomb amid
a great Nation's tears — took him by the hand
with sympathetic words, and led him tenderly
the rest of the way to the hospital. After the
mourners had gone from the building, a guard
of honor was placed in the room, and kept watch
by the dead.

It would not be desirable, were it possible, to
conceal from the historic page, the charge of
cannibalism, that was made against some un-
known members of Lieut. Greely's party. The
fact appears to have been proven beyond doubt
by the autopsy made on the body of Lieutenant
Frederick F. Kislinbury, after it had been con-
veyed to his home in Rochester, N. Y. Drs. Charles
Buckley and P. A. Mandeville, of that place, after
examining the remains in the chapel of Mt. Hope
Cemetery, made a sworn statement of what they
saw, as follows: "The body was packed in cot-

it i'l

6S8

'«0G«« 0, «cric DWCOVEW,

fefei^^^J^^PPedin cotton Coth. «ewed
"'e.ghed on the taWe V.c ,* "'°2'^" blanket I?
head was perfect, haviW i "" /^^ >"'»'"^*- The
and mustache. The hrSi "^ hair and full beard

«a„ werepresent duri^e the °^ .*''^ '^^<=«»«^^
amination, and readi'lv ~. ^. P°st-niortem ex-
theface. From tie ^^"^"'^ed the body by
of muscle, flesh ands^tj^ J'" ^"' <»"ry plrhcle
sharp instrument t/L if *'^'":il'"-^ with some
hand, andfeet wasperflc* and ^^.''^^^ °» thi
No bones had been brolce^' ^T^^ <iecomposed.
thoracic and abdominal I^WtJ °''«^^"^ °f the
There wag ample evidence of^J^''^^" Vr^^^r^t.
andgastritis. The fact of cal^ff"* Peritonitis
lieutenant Greely when i"?^''^"* «^«« P'ain."
the condition of £ieut K-1 ,•''1^ opinion as to

askedbyacorrespondent^ftr^r^'^ body was
at his cottase A,,,, .^!J} °**he New rork TnTmn,

rible charges came ,fn^ '^*er disclosures and ter!
ness. I have suff™ed^^ '"^ ^'^^ ''^^^ sudden-
last few days than fduTn .T"''" ^"?"'«h these
North ^,n the chances were foot'"'' "* ^^^
me If there were any canniK^? ° ' ^^ainst
now seems to be no douVabo^o fi^^"^- ^"^ ther>
done ,„ secrecy, and ^^tt , "—'he man-eating wa,

edge andco-;!:trary tomTdi.":",'?°"* "^7 ^nowl!
no stronger denial ^'l!''*"P''"e- I can give

can testify that the body „^fth?T ?^ "'« ^^-^^
Schneider, was nnt^:Jt^, } V^^ ^ast man deart

^^ fceptEI,rsonX??n ?htV"^*'^« f-" * thft
were in ought to con vL^, ^"P/less state we
■ not canniblls. WhenT^,!/"^'"'?^ ^^^^ we ar|
rations, to the detriment ^ft^f^,"! !"""• ^'"son's
not a man complained al+h; \:V'° '"^st of ng
decreased our spa"s on fer^''?"''^'"^ that it
Smce my return to m„ £ *° " terrible degree
have called upon^me^.^^b^od^P'^iJ *»»« ^"'^--^
.*^^t they knew nothing abw' *\'*"* assured me
the bodies Of their fX^cSU^Iera^.tion ^^f

HI w i 'l i X ii

okeely's report.

629

man •olem.nly swore that he was innocent of the
deed. ' ' I doubt if an investigation will reveal who
are the cannibals. Perhaps those who died last
fed upon the bodies of those who died be-
fore. . . . For days and weeks I lay on my
back unable to move. If in my enfeebled condi-
tion, one or more of my men fed upon human
ilesh, it was beyond my control, and certainly
beyond my knowledge." — Regarding the shooting
of Henry by I^ieut. Greely's orders, the latter
said: **The case demanded immediate action,
and Secretaries Chandler and Lincoln and Gen-
eral Hazen have all assured me that I acted right-
ly, and that the exigency justified the means."
The following detailed report of the execution of
Private Henry made by Lieut. Greelyto General
Hazen, Aug. 14th, 1884, will enable the reader to
understand the last statements in the above in-
terview:

'<SiR, — I have the honor to report that, on June
6th, 1 8 84, at Camp Clay, near Cape Sabine, Grinnell
Land, it became necessary for me to order the
military execution of Private Charles B. Henry,
Fifth cavalry, for continued thieving. The order
was given in writing on my individual responsi-
bility, being deemed absolutely necessary for
the safety of the surviving members of the ex-
pedition. Ten had already died of starvation,
and two more lay at the point of death. The
facts inducing my action were as follows: Pro-
visions had been stolen in Nov. 1883, and Henry's
complicity therein was more than suspected:
on March aoth, 1884, the party nearly perished
from asphyxia. While several men were uncon-
scious, and efforts were made for their restora-
tion, Private Henry stole about two pounds of
bacon from the mess stores. He was not only
seen by the Esquimaux, Jans Edwards, but his
stomach being overloaded, he threw up the un-
digested bacon. An open investigation was held

»ii4 eY9ry member of the party 4§Ql»red b;n^

630

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY,

tMl

guilty of this and other thefts. A clamor for his
life was raised, and repressed by me, I put him
under surveillance until our waning strength
rendered his physical services indispensable.
Later he was found one day intoxicated, having
stolen the liquor on hand for general issue. A
second time his life was demanded, but I again
spared him. On June 5th, the theft of provisions
on his part having been reported to me, I had a
conversation with him in which I appealed to his
practical sense, pointing out that union was
necessary to our preservation. He promised en-
tire refomation, but distrusting him, I issued a
written order that he should be shot if detected
stealing. On June 6th, he not only stole part of
the shrimps for our breakfast, but visiting un-
authorized our winter camp, stole certain seal
skins reserved for food. I then ordered him
shot; on his person was found a silver chrono-
graph abandoned by me at Fort Conger, and
stolen by him. In his bag was found a large
quantity of sealskin, and a pair of sealskin
boots, stolen a few days before from the hunter.
Suspecting complicity on the part of others, I
ordered his execution by three of the most reli-
able men. After his death the order was read to
the entire party and was concurred in as not
only just, but essential to our safety. To avoid
public scandal, I ordered that no man should
speak of this matter until official report should
be made of facts.

*' I have the honor to request that a court of
inquiry should be instituted, or that a court-
martial should be convened, should the honor-
able secretary of war deem either advisable in
this case. I have thought it best not to ask the
written statements of the surviving members
of the party for appendices to this report, lest I
might seem to be tampering with them. I have
not asked since our rescue, June 22nd, whether
their opinions concurring in my action have

HSfeS f

greely's report.

631

changed or not, leaving such questions to your
action, if deemed requisite. I necessarily re-
gret that circumstances imposed such a terrible
responsibility upon me, but I am conscious that
I would have failed in my duty to the rest of my
party had I not acted promptly and summa-
rily."

lieutenant Greely has published (N. Y., 1885-
6) an account of his expedition in two large
volumes. In these he does not allude to the
charges ot cannibalism, to the proofs thereof
adduced by friends of Lieut. Kislinbury and
others, — nor to his own convictions of their
truth as expressed in the interview detailed
above. But as neither he nor Sergeant Brainard,
the strongest survivor, and the active leader of
the party after Greely's disability, had personal
knowledge of the revolting act, and as none of
the officers of the relief ships saw or re-
ported any mutilation of the bodies exhumed at
Camp Clay, nor anything unusual in such cases
except extreme emaciation to skin and bones in
both the living and the dead, it is perhaps not
to be regretted that Lieut. Greely refrains from
alluding to it in his book. It is well, however,
that the fact, of which unmistakable evidence
appears to have been furnished by the autopsy
of Lieut. Kislinbury's ghastly remains at Roches-
ter, N. Y., should not pass into oblivion, nor be
ignored in any future scheme for exposing men
unnecessarily to the horrors of starvation. Sim-
ilar misfortunes have happenened to half de-
mented creatures shipwrecked for weeks, with-
out food, and starving on the lonely ocean, and
in other calamitous circumstances, and may
occur again among ignorant and ravenous sailors
or outcasts; but we may hope that the United
States will not hereafter voluntarily send her
servants to a similar fate in the "Land of Desola-
tion."

In closing this account of the melancholy d^-

682

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

nouemetit of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition,
and collapse of the United States signal station
inOrinnell Land, the scientific results, as es-
timated by Lieut. Grecly on his return home,
will be of interest. An agent of the Associated
Press visited his cottage on Seuvoy Island, N. H.,
Aug. i6th, 1S84, and obtained from Lieut. Greely
the following data, which we transcribe with
some transpositions and verbal condensations
from the newspaper report : —

The observations in which the greatest possi-
ble accuracy was to be had, where tliose of the
declination and deviation of the magnetic needle,
temperature of the air and sea, height of bar-
ometer, and mean and maximum rise and fall
of tides. On the evening of August 28th, 1881,
when the "Proteus" finally left the Greely party
at Discovery Bay, and returned to the United
States — the temperature s nk below the freez-
ing point, and the icy Arctic wind increased in
intensity. During the first month t]ie cold af-
fected the men more than at any subsequent
time. In Dec. the mercury sank to 50° and 65"
below zero for several days at a time, but even
in that weather the cook's favorite exercise was
dancing bare-headed, bare-armed, and with slip-
pered feet on top of a snow drift. During the
day the men dressed in the ordinary outside
clothing, but their flannels were heavy. Five
men were generally engaged for a part of the
day in a scientific work vmder Greely's direction,
and in the duties of the camp; the rest worked
usually about one hour a day, and devoted the
remainder of their time to amusement. All
slept in bunks. The quarters were heated by
a large coal stove, to an average of 50° above
zero. Evening amusements were playing chess,
cards and checkers, and reading. Thus two
years were passed happily at Fort. Conger, and
life was not lonely there, said Lieut. Greely.
On Oct. 15 th, the sun left them for 135 days, and a

!-5i'-;--;.r'-:^.-tifap:r,'rsflir?fW'^;' "■-^^a

WEIRD 8CBNBRY.

633

was
ilip-
the

iide

ion,

"Iced

(the

Ull

)ve

iss,

Iwo

twilight vaiying from half an hour to 14 hours
succeeded; lor two months it was so dim that
the dial of a watch could not be read by it.
April nth, iS32, the sun came above the horizon
and remained there 135 days — giving the party a
great sulticiency of a midnight sun. During
three months the stars were visible constantly,
the constellations of Orion's Belt and the Great
Bear being the brightest. The North Star
looked down from almost overhead. Standing
alone outs Ve the Fort on one of these nights,
the scene was weirdly grand. To the north
flamed the aurora borealis, and the bright con-
stellations were set like jewels around the glow-
ing moon. Over everything was dead silence,
so horribly oppressive that a solitary man is
almost tempted to kill himself, so lonely does
he feel. The astronomer of the party said that
with the nriki'd eye a star of (»ne degree smaller
m ignitude can be seen in the far North than in
our own latitudes. The moon was in sight from
one to twelve days continuously. June 30th, 1 882,
they had the highest temperature, 52® above zero,
known during their stay at L,ady Franklin Bay;
the lowest about 66* 6e/ozi;zero, was in Feb. 1883;
th.Q mercury froze and remained solid /or I ^ days, so
intense was the cold. (Dr. Hall recorded a
similar experience). The mercury in the ther-
mometer invariably rose during sto^'ms and high
winds. The highest barometer was slightly
above 31 inches, the lowest slightly below 29
inches, showing a great range. The greatest
variations were in winter; the electrometer was
set up, but, to their astonishment, it gave no
electrical indications.

The Stars and Auroras. — The general shape of
the aurora was that of a ribbon ; the brightest
displays — not to be compared with those seen
at Discovery Island and Upei'navik — accompanied
by no crackling sound, were seen in the north-
westerly horizon. Sir George Nares reported iu

634

PR0«RK!<8 OV ARCTtC DlSCOVKRY.

ii: ^

1876 thai no nhiulow was caat by the nurorn ; but
Uiou(. Oti'ooly .saw dint iiu't ly his ovvti Hlia(h)NV is
Iho avii-oial lijvlit. A rmiibliug orihumlor wan
twice hvMi'd iar away 10 the iu)tt h — ollicrwiso
th«.M"c worciio clocli'ioal ^list urbamoH.

It waa iliscDVoroil lluil the tiUcH at Uady
Fianklin Hay ov>ino iVom the iu)rtli, while lliose
at Melville bay and Cape Sablue came IVoiii the
isouth, and were two dej;reeH voider than tiie
north t ivies at Kv)i't C\)n};er. (ir-.ely used a
lixed j;auv;e — ati iron rod planted in the nuid — in
lueasurinj; the ebb and tlow of the tide. The
averai;:e rise ol' sprinj;^ tides at Uavly Franklin
Hay was eight Teet — tit Cape Sabine the hi};hest
were twelve I'eet. Surt" was observed only twiee
duringf their captivity. The averai;e tetnpera-
ture ot the water was 2()^ above zero, or 3*^ below
I'reezins^ point. Foxes and other animals were
seet\ around Fort Conger; wolves weighing 90
pounds were killed. Ot tish there was a wonder-
tul scarcity; but from the fresh water of UaUe
Alexander, 15 feet abi>ve sea level, a iour-pouua
salmon was taken. From the bay and sea, only
two small tish were taken dut'i ng their stay; in
fact, few are to be taken north of Cape Sabine.
The vegetation in al! this region, even at the
northern Ullima Thulj reached by l^ieut. l^oek-
wood, consists of lichens, mosses, willows and
saxifrage. Rain fell rarely; snow-storms were
frequent; during one, the velocity of the wind
IS registered, was 70 miles an hour. L<ievit.
Lroekwood's trips to tiie North in 18S2-1883, prom-
ised valuable resu'is. Standiujf on the i9tli of
May in each year where Dr. Hayes stood in the
same month during his Arctic cruise, from au
elevatior* of 2,000 feet, Lockwood with his strouj^-
est glasses directed on Hall's Basin and Robe-
sou's Channel, could discern nothing but ice
packs wbere Dr. Hayes thought he saw an "open
polar sea." In 1S82, about 300 miles north of
Lady Franklin Bay in a direct line, but 1,000

"OPKN I'OT<AR *?!',A. "

'S35

iiiiIrM, owitij', lo (ipcn walci* ati«l brolfcri p.-ickw,
by the roiilc \\v. travclctd, Liciiic I^ccU wood
iwicIkmI 1 III" liijrlK'Hi lal il tide I'vcr altuincd, 83*^
25' N. Ill iSHj Ju' waM Hloppi'd ncarCapc Uryaiit,
125 inilrH diiH'«l ly noil li IVom P'orl C<»iijmt, l>y
Mil opvii tliaiiiH'l cxI 'MkUm)^ wchI lo ilic coaHl of
(iriniudl Land, and varyiii);^ IVoni 200 yaidn to
livo niilcM ill wi<llli l>iil on Hit; norlli tin; ice
pa«."lc.H cxli-ndrd hi'yoiid Hn; ranja: ol IiIm /HaHH.
II:" lliis open chaiiMLd iiad iiol. I)an«'(| hirt way,
I^ocUwood wart conlidcnl; thai; lie ('ouI<l have
ri-aelMMJ 85" N. Tliir only sea animalH Ik; Haw
liei'e were liic walniM (nol: IouikI al l<a«ly l*'raiik-
liii Hay) and weal. TIk* delleelioii of Hie tnajniet-
ie lUH'dle Jit 83" 25' waH 104" went — more than 1-4
of a circle. Al Uady i''ranUlin'H JJay, the needle
wart never (jniet: exeepi in nlorrnrt. lie .sounded
I he H».'a hcl ween Capes Bryaiil and Hriiannia. hut
vviih 135 Jalhonirt of liiUMould nol. ioneli »*(;ltoni;
Markhain a lew yearrt hel'oi'e got hollom at 72
fathoniH, ahout lou nii'iH io the west. The
iiorlh-eaHlern 1 rend oi' the Greenland eoa.st v'^on-
iinued beyond hirt view. No BJ^nirt of a polar
current or open .sea were discovered, l/w-u-
tenant Greely .says iiiat if the Norlli J'oh^ is ever
reached by man, it will be done by way of I'ranz
JoHef l^^and; it is iinprej^niable by tlie " Jean-
no tte's" Jjehrinjr {Strait route. lie thinks, liow-
ever, that an o[»en ])olar 8ea is indicated by the
ice drift inj^ out of Mussel iiay ' nd Sl)itzber^cn in
mid-winter, and by the northern drift of the
])()1ar pack experienced by Lockwoodand Pavy in
82*^ 83 ' N. It may not inapproi)riately be added,
in contravention of Lieut. Greely'.s .sanguine
view, that if there is an "ojjen polar sea," w'dch
Hall and other Arctic visionaries have seen the
extremities of only in l-)rearnland — it would be
such an arduous task to reach it, during the pres-
ent cycle of Tiine — it is encomj)assed with such
monstrous icebergs, glaciers, packs, floes, hum-
mocks, and fierce, biting, hyperborean gales,

636

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

I >

hi I

winds, and frosty breath issuing from so many
immeasurable degrees below zero — ^that it may
be pronounced emphatically, an impracticable
ocean for man in this stage of his existence.
Only the freed spirits of Arctic explorers will
ever find it, or become habiiues and messengers
of commerce on that unexplored main. Only the
phantom ships seen by the Ancient Mariner will
ever plow its waves. Only a race more subli-
mated than the Esquimaux or any of their civ-
ilized visitors will ever bask on its circompolar
beach or luxuriate in its balmy islands. As the
shades of Sir Hendrik Hudson's lost crews were
seen by Rip Van Winkle carousing at midnight
on the classic heights of the Hudson river — so
perhaps some future sleeper may discover the
ghosts of Sir John Franklin and his men among
the Hesperides of the Polar Basin.

Still, there are earnest believers in the practi-
cability of reaching the Pole. The latest project
is that of Col. Gilder, the associate of Lieut.
Schwatka in his famous Arctic journey. Col.
Gilder proposes, June-July 1886, to make a dash
for the Pole on foot. He describes his plan as
follows:

I shall embark on a whaler from New Bedford or New
London bound for the north, and enter either Hudson
bay or Cumberland inlet, where I will gather a party of
natives and as many dogs as I can secure. I shall then

gut my whole equipage on board of a Scotch steam whaler,
ecause these vessels go as far into the north water each
year as possible. I then propose to be landed at the most
northerly point they reach. Here I will make a station
and pass one winter, having perhaps previously wintered
at the point where I gathered together my party. From
this station I will, during the following spring, move
northward to Fort Conger, in Lady Franklin Bay, where
Greely spent two of his three winters in the Arctic. At
Fort Conger, as I am advise 1 by Lieutenant Greely, I will
find ample stores of civilized food for my small party, this
being only auxiliary to the game that forms the chief diet
of these people. From the very minute report of the con-
ditions found in all that vicinity as given in Lieutenant
Greely 's * Three Years of Arctic Service,' I have little fear

LAST WORDS.

637

liet
m-

lUt

of finding plenty of land and sea game for such a party aa
I expect to have with me. The native hunteifi and dog
drivers will, as usual, take with them their entire families
—the old men and women and the children, I hope to be
landed by the Scotch steamer not a great distance from
Cape Isabella or Cape Sabine. I feel confident of a good
share of sucess ; for if T find the route to Fort Conger im-
practicable I can easily reach land believed to exist, but
not yet discovered, between Grinnell Land and Prince
Patrick Island. If, however, I succeed in reaching Fort
Conger— and I know no reason why I should not— i mean
to make a dai^hfor the Pole over the route taken by Beau-
mont, of Sir George Nares' expedition, and Lockwood, of
Greely's expedition. Then, with the advantage of the
skilled Esquimau assistants, I hope to go beyond the high-
est latitude yet reached. I can, I think, at any rate es-
tablish the northern point of Greenland."

LAST WORDS.— HOW LIEUT. GREELY DESCRIBES THE RETREAT
FROM FORT CONGER, THE LANDING AT OAPC SABINE, LIFE
AND SUFFERINGS THERE, AND THE RESCUE. WHEN HOPE,
WHICH "SPRINGS ETERNAL IN THE HUMAN BREAST," WAS
KEKINDLED ANEW IN THE MORIBUND SURVIVORS BY THE
SHRILL BLAST OF THE "THETIS'" WHISTLE- OUNCE OP PRE-
VENTION-LONDON GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY'S MEDALS TO
LIEUT. GREELY AND SERGEANT BRAINARD.

In Feb. 1883, preparations for the retreat were
made by establishincr a depot at Cape Baird, 12
miles south. Day after day the anxious men
looked off over Lady Franklin Bay, expecting the
ice to open — so that they might begin their
journey toward home. Atlast,Aug. 19th, 1883, the
welcome news that the ice was oj)en was brought.
That very day the party embarked in the little
steam launch. Their dogs had to be left behind
with four barrels of pork and some seal oil to
keep them from immediate starvation. The Bay
was crossed to Cape Baird, a distanceof 13 miles,
and then the western coast of Grinnell Land was
followed south as far as Cape Hawkes. Large
qiiantities of heavy ice were met; and extreme
was the danger every moment that the little
launch would be crushed. Several times all the
boats were nearly lost. The suffering of the
men was great. They were now within 50 miles
of Cape Sabine. Striking from Cape Hawkes
direct for Bates Island, the party was caught in

U-i

638

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

the ice pack and frozen in lo miles south of Cape
Hawkes. In 13 days they drifted south 25 miles
on the floes, suffering horribly from the cold.
So they drifted to within 1 1 miles of Cape Sabine,
and were obliged to abandon the steam launch
on Sept. loth. The pack now remained motionless
for three days, and several times the party got
within two or three miles of Cape Sabine, only
to be drifted back by the south-west gales. Five
seals were killed and eaten while the men were
drifting about. Eventually 'a heavy north-west
gale drove them by Cape Sabine, within a mile
of Brevoort Island, bvit they could not land.
But on Sept, 22nd, there arose the most terrific
gale they had yet seen on the Arctic ocean.
The ice floe was driven hither and thither by
the tempest, and the waves washed over them
again and again, the spray freezing to them and
causing intense suffering to the men. A night
of inky blackness came on. The wind threw the
heavy floes together, and crash after crash of ice
breaking from their own floe, warned the men
that death was near to them. No man kaew at
what moment the floe might break up and the
waters engulf them. The first faint light of
dawn showed them that little remained of the
floe upon which they were. The sea washed
another close to them. Closer it came, and at
last, at the word, the men succeeded in getting
upon it. The storm slowly subsided, and they
gained land at Esquimaux Point, near Baird's In-
let, on Sept* 29th. Here winter quarters were
built, and scouts were sent to Cape Isabella and
Cape Sabine. In a few days they returned.
Their report sent a thrill of horror to every
heart. At Cape Isabella and Cape Sabine were
found only 1,800 rations, and Garlington's
records they learned the fate of the "Proteus."
Every one knew that death must come to nearly
every one of the party long before the ship of
rescue could force its way into Melville Bay.

P!'M|FWiP*Wl*-»«»f»''»

FIRM AND FAINT HEARTED RESCUERS.

639

of
the
led

at
ing

ey
In-

ere

rly
of
ay.

Efforts were made to sustain the spirits of the
men by lectures and light reading. On Oct. 1 5th,
the party removed to Cape Sabine. On Jan. 1 8th,
1884, Cross died of scurvy. In April the rations
issued had dwindled to four ounces of meat
and six ounces of bread. Man after man died,
and all hope had fled when, on that stormy day,
June 22nd, 1884, the blast of the ** Thetis'" whistle
roused the survivors from the lethargy of ap-
proaching death 1

L<et the sad story end with this reminder: —
If the first and second expeditions for the relief
of Greely had been managed as well and pushed
as energetically as the third expedition under
Commander Schley, Fort Conger would have
been reached, or adequate depots of supplies
left at Cape Sabine; or, better still, the instruc-
tions of Secretary Chandler and the expectations
of Lieut. Greely accomplished by Lieut. Garling-
ton and Commander Wildes in 1883, by estab-
lishing a relief party at Littleton Island, with
abundant supplies — *' where the main duty would be
to keep their telescopes on Cape Sabine and the land
to the north-'vard" to catch, the first sight of the
weary wanderers from Lady Franklin Bay, re-
turning south for food and shelter, as they were
under orders to do, and actually did, on Sept.
29th, 1883, without finding their countrymen
there to welcome them. It will be remembered
that the "Yantic" under Commander Frank
Wildes, did easily reach Littleton Island on Aug.
3rd, 1883, but left no provisions there for Greely.
Lieut. Garlington's instructions from Secretary
Chandler were : If it should become clearly ap-
parent that the vessel cannot be pushed throug-h
to Lady Franklin Bay, you will retreat from your
advanced position and land your party and stores
at or near Life Boat Cove (at Littleton Island),
discharge the relief vessel, and remain with
your party until relieved next year. From
this station at Littleton Island, endeavor, as

640

MIOGRESS OF ARCTIC MSCOTIfRT.

Ill !

I*'

soon as possible, to communicate with I^ieut.
Greely by sledge parties; the men not so em-
ployed to lose no time in preparing a house for
the whole party, and securing the stores pre-
paratory to the arrival of Lfieut. Greely." Yet,
under these positive orders, though Commander
Wildes actually visited L^ittleton Island in search
of lyieut. Garlington, and the latter when, found
at Upernavik by the ** Yantic," after the burn-
ing of the ** Proteus," might have gone in that
vessel back to Littleton Island, — *'noattempt was
made," says Secretary Chandler, *^by either Lieut.
Garlington or Commander Wildes to establish a relief
party at Littleton Island, for which point Lieut.
Greely was under orders to start not later than
Sept. ist" — and, it may be added, did start on
Aug. 19th, 1883. Perhaps one chief reason for
the unfortunate ^asro of 1883, was the failure to
start from St. John's in time. Lieut. Schley
started from New York in 1884, about May ist,
and reached Cape Sabine as early as June 22nd,
by which most gracious Providence he saved the
lives of five men, and prolonged the lives of two
others — none of whom could have survived 48
hours longer without such timely aid. But
neither the "Proteus" nor "Yantic" left St.
John's in 1883 until June 27th, and they did not
leave Disco Island until July 15th and 26th.
Whose fault was this? that of the Navy Depart-
ment or the expeditionary forces ? Perhaps all
the disasters to the *' Proteus," and to Greely
and his twenty-four companions, might have
been avoided if the relief expedition of 1883 had
sailed from St. John's and pushed right on to
Littleton Island and Cape Sabine one month or
six weeks earlier. But, starting late as they
did, it appears to the impartial critic of 1886,
that the sole purpose of the expedition, the loca-
tion of a relief party with ample supplies at Lit-
tleton Island, after the failure to reach Greely
at Fort Conger, might have been efifected if the

■v-^*-WJ!V*wr«ii«5^|aP?*<Mpi*r '^■*Nt-"'!-**r- mr^iW WiMiO****

ri:

MEDALS AWARDED.

641

specific instructions under which it set out had
been followed by its commanders ; and that
when Lieut. Greely and his men landed from
the ice floes on Cape Sabine, Sept. 29th, 1883, if
there had been across the open water of Smith's
Sound, at I^ittleton Island, a comfortable house,
full supplies of provisions and clothing, and re-
lief men on the lookout for them, ready to cross
in boats and convey them to this snug winter
home — there would have been no horrible tale
of suffering, starvation and death to relate of
the Greely party, and no censure to bestow on
the expedition which, warned of Greely's per-
il — '* put their hands to the plow, and then turned hack."

Royal Geographical Society's Medals. — lyieut.
Greely's and Sergeant Brainard's conspicuous
achievements in the field of exploration have
been appropriately honored, at home and abroad.
Two out of the three honors annually bestowed
by the London (Royal) Geographical Society,
have been given in 1886, to Greely and his brave
subordinate Brainard. The chief of these
honors, the Founder's Gold Medal, was presented
to lyieut. Greely. Sergeant Brainard, who, with
Lieut. Lockwood, made the furthest northing
ever attained, received the Back Grant. Lock-
wood perished at Camp Clay; if he had survived, a
first honor would have been awarded to him.

American explorers have received the high-
est honors of both the Royal Geographical
Society, and the Paris Societe de Geographic,
during the latter half of the nineteenth cent-
ury — as has been noted in previous pages of
this narrative; and undoubtedly they have
earned the most enduring title to commenda-
tion, and have achieved greater successes and
borne heavier burdens in the Arctic zones than
the explorers of any other country. Nor will it
be forgotten that the United States has contribut-
ed more national aid, sent out and, unfortunate-
ly, sacrificed, more of its u^val and military

642

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

K \

officers, and fitted out greater expeditions — for
Arctic researches, during the same period, than
any other power. It is curious to note that
Henry Clay advocated the first appropriation in
1850, and that Jefferson Davis opposed it on the
game grounds that led him into the fatal blun-
der of secessions. — Lieut. C. F. Wilkes received
the Royal Geographical Society's medal in 1848.
Dr. E. K.Kane was awarded the highest medal of
the L^ondon Society in 1856, and of the Paris Geo-
graphical Society in 1858. Dr. Isaac I. Hayes was
the gold medallist of the Royal Society in .1867,
and oi the Soa'e/e cle Geographt'e of Paris, in 1869.
Captain C. F. Hale, was awarded the gold medal
of the " Roquette Foundation " by the Paris Geo-
graphical Society in 1 874-1 875. Lieut. F.
Schwatka also received the last named medal in
1883. The list closes with Greely and Brainard
in 1886 — and these two almost martyrs to mili-
tary duty and to the thirst for knowledge of
the Pole are not at least among the seven.

Will the surviving Arctic explorers now rest
on their well-earned laurels — or does the spirit
of adventure still urge them on? Capt. Hall
said that he who has once beheld the eternal ice
will return again to look at it. — Col. Wm. H.
Gilder, after a short respite, is again ejt rouie for
the Pole, with no backing except his own in-
domitable pluck. Will he find there Dr. Hayes'
"open polar sea ? " Or the Garden of Eden which
Eieut. Greely, in his lecture before the Scotch
Geographical Society (1885), located at the
North Pole ? Or the Summer Island and the Lost
Race of the Russian Legend? Or the Magnetic
World described by Maurus Jokai, the Hungarian
poet-novelist, — as the habitation of a people who
"love one another truly. When two hearts have
found each other nothing can ever separate
them again except death. If one of the lovers
dies before the other he or she does not soar
way to another star in order to be bom again.

OASIS DISCOVERED.

643

without the other; he or she floats round the
other, lives in the other's heart, and waits till
the other dies that they may together take
their flight to the new land of eternal bliss." —
No other such delectable abode now exists.

The Oasis Greely and Lockwood saw in Grinnell

Land.

Setting romance aside, there are good reasons
for believing that oases are still occasionally
found in the Arctic regions; and, as we have
already shown the coal beds and other signs
which have been discovered there, afford indub-
itable evidence that, in some distant epoch, a
luxuriant vegetation and genial climate pre-
vailed at or near the Pole. Lieut. Greely, in his
lately published book, describes the oasis he
found in Grinnell Land, within the ice walls of
the coast regions. Sir Joseph Hooker, in 1876,
expressed the opinion that Grinnell Land, is not
ice-capped, as a large part of Gree-nland is, but
that it is an ice-girt island within which vegeta-
tion and game flourish. The district correspond-
ing with this description, where Lieuts. Greely
and Lockwood saw little snow or ice even in
April, is north of 81° north latittide, extending
about 50 miles north and south, and nearly from
sea to sea east and west. Here they discovered
a large freshwater lake, a big river, and many
long valleys where, latet' in the season, flour-
ished a '* luxuriant vegetation," which served as
pasturage for a good deal of game, including
many herds of musk oxen. In these grassy
valleys, within about 600 miles of the Pole, were
found abundant animal life, and numerous but-
terflies, bumble-bees, and "devil's darning
needles" enjoying the warm summer day. The
old legends of the North and South Pole, which
novelists and poets have depicted with such
picturesque effect, may yet be verified by future
explorers, if not by Col. Gilder himself.