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MICROCOfY RESOIUTION TEST CHART 
 
 iANSI ond ISO TEST CHART No 2) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 I- 
 i:. 
 
 1^ i^ 
 
 12.0 
 
 136 
 
 1.25 IIIIII.4 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.6 
 
 _^ APPLIED IM/H GE Inc 
 
 ^^_ 'bbl ijst Ma fi Strpe' 
 
 ■^S (:'16) ^e: - 030C ■ Fn^r*. 
 
 ^S (7'6i ;88 - ^989 - H. 
 
MUSHROOM CULTURE 
 
 BY 
 
 F. L. DRAYTON, Plant Pathologist. 
 
 1! 
 
 i 
 
 it 
 
 
 The Common Mushroom 
 
 DOMINION EXPERIMENTAL FARMS. 
 
 E. S. ARCHIBALD. B.A., B.S.A., Director 
 
 Exhibition Circular No. 99 
 
 20611 
 
 itf-4- 
 
 ■:';-<i&s5^, 
 
MUSHROOM CULTURE. 
 
 The Kfowinc of mushrooms is generally considered to be very difficult, 
 but in reality it is quite easy. Success may be obtained by anyone, provided 
 that there is a suitable place to grow them, and that care is taktn in carrying 
 out the instructions given below. 
 
 The first consideration is in the choice of a 
 
 Suitable Place to Grow the Mushrooms. 
 The following places may be used:— 
 
 1. A cellar, outbuilding or barn in which the temperature can be kept 
 fairly uniformly between 45° and 65° F. 
 
 2. A cave or abandoned mine. 
 
 3. Under greenhouse benches. 
 
 4 An unheated barn may be used, but in t! •=> ase the beds would have to 
 be spawned in September, remain frozen all " -f and no mushrooms would 
 be obtained until the following spring. This lot the most desirable practice, 
 for it is preferable to have the mushrooms in e winter. 
 
 The next step is the 
 
 Preparation of the Manure. 
 
 About the end of October, get fresh horse manure where wheat or oat 
 straw has been used for bedding, in sufficient quantity for the size of the bed 
 to be used. Remove as much as possible of the long straw in the manure, 
 place it in a heap sheltered from rain, and keep it from burning by forking over 
 several times at intervals of four to seven days until the first violent heating is 
 over, which will take from three to four weeks. By this time it will have become 
 thoroughly mixed, of a fairly uniform consistency, and will have lost its rank 
 odour. If during the heating of the manure it becomes very dry, sufficient 
 water may be added to make it moist, but not wet. A good way to determine 
 whether the manure is of the correct moistness and consistency is to take up a 
 handful and squeeze it tightly; if, on opening the hand, the manure falls to 
 pieces, it is too dry, or if water is squeezed out, it is too wet, but if it retains its 
 shape without any water being squeezed out it is in perfect condition to use for 
 
:'^m^:?M 
 
 C^^i«;t»!i^y 
 
 3 
 
 Making the Beds. 
 
 The manuri' may be placed on the floor and ridged up against a wall so 
 that the pile is ton inches in front and sixteen inches at the back; or spread on 
 shelves, like those shown in the accompanying diagram. 
 
 i 
 
 I i 
 
 J.I 
 
 These are ten feet long, three feet six inches wide and ten inches deep, with 
 eighteen inches clearance between the bottom of the shelf above and the surface 
 of manure in the shelf below. These measurements may be altered to suit the 
 size and shape of the space available, but the diagram will serve to indicate a 
 structure which is easily made and will give satisfactory results. If the manure 
 is to be placed on the floor, care should be taken that the beds rest upon a 
 thoroughly dry bottom and avoid placing directly on cement. The manure should 
 be compacted with a spade or other tool when the bed is being made. 
 
 For the first week or ten days a,fter the bed is made it will heat up consider- 
 ably. The temperature can be determined by inserting a common glass ther- 
 mometer into the manure. When the temperature is found to be 65° to 70° 
 when taken in various parts of the bed, it is then time to begin 
 
Spawning. 
 
 Bricks of spawn can be obtained from any reliable firm dealing in nccda and 
 garden supplies, the price usually varying from 25 to 35 cents per brick. The 
 bricks should be broken into ten or twelve pieces and these pieces should be 
 planted eight to ten inches apart each way in the bed, and half to three-quarters 
 inch deep. This is best done by making a hole on the surface of the manure 
 with a piece of wood, inserting the piece of spawn, covering it over and pressing 
 down the manure on the surface over the spawn. 
 
 In about two weeks dig up a piece of the spawn carefully. If a number of 
 white threads are seen to be running out from the spawn like mould, it is then 
 time to spread two to three inches of good loamy soil over the surface of the 
 manure. 
 
 Watering. 
 
 No water should be put on the beds after spawning until the mushrooms 
 appear which will be six to eight weeks from the time of spawning. It is very 
 desirable however to keep the air around the beds as moist as possible, this can 
 be done by occasionally sprinkling the walls and floor with water. After the 
 mushrooms begin to appear the bed.-* should be sprinkled very lightly every day or 
 two until the surface is just moist. After that one or two sprinklings a week 
 will he sufhcient, according to the condition of the beds. If they get very dry 
 quickly, water oftener. 
 
 A Few Dont's in Growing Mushrooms. 
 
 1. Don't u.se old manure or manure mixed with shavings or sawdust. 
 
 2. Don't try to cure the manure too late when frosty weather has become 
 permanent. 
 
 3. Don't ])lant the spawn until temperature of the manure is constant at 
 G.5° for three or four days, because the manure will heat up again after the bed 
 is made. 
 
 4. Don't over-water; much more damage is done by keeping the bed too 
 wet than too dry. Let the manure be just moist. 
 
 5. Don't cover the bed with soil until the spawn has started to make a 
 mould-like growth. 
 
 pi-'o- •a. 
 
 . [;;