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The following diagrams iiluetrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de rAduction diff Arents. Lorsque ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un soul clichA, 11 est filmA A partir de i'angie supArieur geuche, de geuche A droite, et de heut en bee, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcsssaire. Les diagrammes sulvants illustrent ie mAthode. 1 2 3 a2x 1 2 3 4 5 6 ' 3i NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO HUDSON'S BAY IK HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ROSAMOND COMTAINIKQ SOMI ACCOUNT OF THE NORTH-EASTERN COAST OF AMERICA AMD iV-,r OF THE TRIBES y\S^^^^^ INHABITIMO r<.^>-' --^y.v THAT REMOTE REGIO%^/^j LIEUT. EDWARD CHAPPELL, R;*. 'TfttTf y, S Mtva-Mf 0x«Xu^( mmm KtXtuhvf. DIONYSn PERIE0E8IS. v. «3. Ottmt. Mg/f. LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, LUDOATE STREET: £y R. Watts, Crown Court, Temple Bar. 1817. it;: I" if ■> ■i 'J \^\c:% X^4^.jy;yt4-r.ci \% S, J . , if) ■fKsr:»'fr.it • ... ... •If •?>. 2'» ir^^fcff -j-io crH'./vymH TO THB LORD VISCOUNT PALMERSTONE BARON TEMPLE SECRETARY OF WAR Mr.MBER FOR THE UNIVERSITT OF CAMBRIDGE &c, &C. tin. rr THB rOLLOWlKQ NARRATIVE WITH HIS LORDSHIP'S PERMISSION IS DEDICATED ■ i ; ,■ i" A AS A MEMORIAL OF GRATITUDE AND A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT ill' BY HIS LORDSHIP'S OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT EDWARD CHAPPELL. ■ I \% / "• .'If! r^ HT J -i 't5^ UT;^il:il/IjAqiVi(jO 3j^jy CIHOvl a J%M -rT-^iiff ^H Av.-,i vio,n;u.vaa'^c yn, T Hi' >^^' < ' t «. f ', 1 J ■ < * i'lt >U K ■svsa -Id, •k^ J , '^"'advertisement. m'^^[^ .irjii: •, ■.' ' • • ' 1 ,' . , .ii'iori WARDS the close of the year 1814, a young naval officer, Lieutenant Chappell, of his Majesty's ship Rosamond, who had recently returned, for the second time, from an expedition to the North-eastern coast of America, brought to Cambridge a collection of the dresses, weapons, &c* of the Indiam inhabiting Hudson's Bai^*; requesting that I would present these curiosities to the Public Library of the University. This CoUecticj. sio much resembled another which the Russian Commodore Billings brought to Petersburg from the North-western shores of the same continent, and part of which ,,;H n Professor ; * See Appendix (E). 1- i If ADVEllTISEMENT. Professor Pallas had given to me in the Crimea, that, being desirous to learn whether the same customs and language, might not be observed over the whole of North Ame- rica, between the parallels 50* and J(f of north latitude, I proposed to Lieutenant €hkppiH Ik s.erie^ of questions concefiiittg the iMiived of the Norih-eaitern jcoast; deibring to have an answer to each of therkH knwni\wg, founded upon hifi own pers^hM ^bserva4toyi6. In consequence of thi» ap^ plioation, I wa^ entrusted wk^ a perusal of the following JoarnaL It was v^^dtl^n by faim9«4f, during bis last expedition: tind having since prevailed upon him td make it publtdi it id a duty inotmbenit upon me to irouch for its authenticity) and to tna1t<^ Ittiowti sofne particulars respecting itft author, which may perhaps give an addi* trdwal interest to his Narrative. The Letters, Ihtlirfed, ^Hiieh hkve accd/npahied his conii mu^catfons with regard to his late voyage, Xrt' are // ADVCHTISEMfiNT. are strongly tinged with the •* infanthimjubes renovare doiorem ;" because, to the ardent spirit ot' a British seaman, no service can be more depressing than that which, during #ar, banishes him from the career of glory, to fl station where no proof of 4kill or of intrepidity, no enterprise of fatigue or of danger, is ever attended with honour or reward*. Lieutenant Chappell was twice ordei^d upon this station ; after exploits in the navy, which, at a ytty early period of his liKc, obtained for him the rank he now holds. • A'*\ H % '^'ji i' ind'i ■ 't; liTfT ' Ih iSOfl, he assisted in cutting out (h6 Spanish privateer -^ schooner, Isabella La vimoSi from under the batteries of a small , bay "*i- '*fjffig ^uty |g cbnsi^el^d fey aft flaval officers as the sevet'^ trial of health anil spirit to which the profession of a seainah is liable : and in proof of this, it will appear, by the follewlng l^a'rraflVe, that, upon the tlosamond being ordered a second time to this Station, her Captain obtaihed leave to (][Uil hii ship, and eight of her crew deserted the first time the boat went to shore, after the order arrived from the Admiralty. t'l i ■•» *.: ADVERTISEMENT. bay in South America''^. In 18 06, after wit- nessing the battle of St, Domingo, he was with the boats which burned the /mperia/e of 120 guns, and \,\xt Dimnede of eighty guns. In the latter end of the same year, his ship, the Kings Fisher, having towed Lord Cochrane h frigate from under the batteries of Ulsle dAix, near I^Qchfort, assisted in the capture of Le President of forty-four guns. In 1808, he was ^t the capture pf the Danish islands, St. Thomas and St. Croix, in the West Indies. In IB08, or I809, he was in the /w/repic?^ of sixty ^four guns^ when she engaged two French frigates, and was very severely handled. Afterwards, he was at the capture of the Saints, and of rfutrf irji/'f. the ^ * See the narrative of this circumstance, as it appeared, at the time, in the Naval Chronicle and other public journals. Upon this signal instance of British valour in a person so young as to be almost a child in the service, and who had gallantly volunteered to accompany the expedition upon this dangerous enterprise, the Captain of his ship presented Mr. Chappell with the sword of the Spanish Commander, as the priKe of his valour. ^^ j,^,i,^ ,,,^ ,,t,,,^^ ^^^^ , , \ ADVERTIBElflNT. the Island of Martinico, when he was em- ployed on the shore, in fighting the breaching hatteries. In 1810, he commanded a gun- boat during the siege of Cadiz. The con- duct of the gun-boats upon this occasion requires no comment : it was then that he received a severe wound in the thigh, and was made Lieutenant. In 1 8 1 2, he assisted in landing the Expedition, under Qeneral Maitlatid, in Murcia, In 1813, he was employed in protecting the fisheries upon the coast of Labrador. In 1814, he made the voyage to Hudson^s Bay, whereof the following pages contain his unaltered Nar- • rative. In 1815, being First Lieutenant of his Majesty's ship Leven, he was employed iti assisting the Chiefs of La Fendee, and in reinstating the Prince Tremouiile in the Captain-generalship of the Department de Cotes cF Or, 4, , Such have been the services of this meritorious /• w \'\ li! IIU meritorioiM officer, now only twenty -five years of agei \ ^ b«it; oiwibg to th^ termination of the war» dismissed, with many other ef his gallant comradesi from the aqU^e duties in which they were engaged* These circumstances, as it mi;LSt be obvious, are by no meiins querulously intrpdupej ; nor is the following Narrative made public with the ^tightest intention of reproftGhii% the Admiralty with the hard lot to whieh one of its naval heroes was exposed, in being twice employed in such a service :— 4t li ^ lot that must fall somewhere; 9q4 ^bc» present Publieadon will shew, thsl «lh0 person upon whom \t dievoWed i$ able^t0 ' give a satisfactcnry account Qfib6fiiann9£r4l^ which this i^art of his duty was pfgrforpif d» r * a^, ^ . Ai-C* *^* ^' . *■ -.U-Vvi'*^'' •* 'H^:.'., ^ i\h^. %.iV<*-'*. University Library, Cambridge, /f/»n77, 1817. til ''^'r*v*iyi!iWw^ LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. MAP of the Great Nelson RiveTf from the Great Lake _. JVmnepeg to the Gull Lake; shewing the different Portages, Falls, and Rapids : by Mr. William Hillier, Master in the Royal Navy .... facing Title-page. View of the Rosamond passing to windward of an JLCcLcTS •• •• t • • • • • • • P«l Gogte Saddle Back, north 7 or 8 miles ; with two re- markable Icebergs off the low point .... 55 Male Esqu'maux, in his Canoe ib. An Esquimaux Hut 7S^ Appearance of the Entrance of Prince ofPTales's Setmd, bearing s.w. |w. about nine leaguei ;•— taken August 17) 1814 .v^#:.# . . ,133 The Rosamond grappled among close Ice . . . . . ib. Sledge drawn by Dogs, used by European Traders at Hudson's Bay, and on the Southern Coast of Labrador •.... 106 Btak CaxioecX the Cree Indians in Hudson's Bay . . ih. lotffior of a Wigwam of the Cree Indians . . . .211 n I ^ 1 -, \ > • ' M . 1 t ^'' : .'i .;- . . ' ,1 V - : ) ' ' : , - '. . ' \ . ■ t : . . f ' ' . '.^ r, T , ,' * • • . . (1 Tff fivmtH io . . t 1 ' « \ •'f . • '......, . 'j . — ■ . ■ , ^ 1 \ . ^ , ,. .0 lA ,^1 ; ".. i FA/ Degi-cei of ^ ss te^ Lntitiidr ^ ^ «1 . J) '^ \ •^ ^ (I' .4^ .1^ m K •<'rf. [^ w IS o -1 '-<7. |05_ Sis 1^ ■* ■f*^ r 4 A VIEW i\ . Campbell received orders to repair, without delay, to Hoseley Bay, on the coast of Suffolk; and there to wait for his final directions from the Admiralty. The Rosamond, at this time, had been lying about a fortnight at Spithead, perfectly ready for sea ; and it was con- jectured that America woyld have been the pUc6 of her destination: of course, . . B many ) \ Z NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGS many among us were big with the hopes of fame, and many with the expectation of fortune. When the above-mentioned orders arrived, however, all chance of our proceeding to the seat of war appeared at an end: yet we consoled ourselves with the reflection, that we should doubtless be employed on the coast of Norway ; as the whole of that kingdom had been declared in a state of blockade, in con- sequence of the Norwegians refusing to accede to the Treaty of Keil, by which their country was to be annexed for ever to the dominion of Sweden, Accordingly, we sailed from Spithead, Mat 15^^. — ^We had light winds all this day. As we passed out of Spithead, through St. Helen*s, we observed His Majesty's ship Adamant, and sin East- India ship, going in. About nine in the evening we passed close to the Owers Light, May ti'! I TO HUDSON S BAY. 3 Mat l6ih, — In the forenoon, fine calm weather, we came to an anchor in sight of Brighton, to wait the change of tide: saw His Majesty's ship Hope at anchor in the Roads, In the afternoon, got under weigh : observed His Majesty's brig Tigress standing down Channel. Towards night- fall, we weathered the promontory of Beachy Head, and passed in view of Hastings, where the famous battle was fought between King Harold and William the Conqueror, Mat 17th, — At two in the morning, anchored in sight of Dimgeness Light- house. At seven a.m. weighed, with a foul wind, and beat towards the South Foreland' Came in sight of the coast of France: .observed ^ large pillajr, or monument, on the hills above Moidogne, ^id to l^ve been erected by Buon&pqvte, In t^e ^f^er- noon, anchored pfl* the tQwa lof Folisionfi, 3 2 Towards J) If; 4 NABRATIVE OF A VOYAGE To wards evening, weighed again; and, dfter night- fall, anchored in Dover Road^s, ' //.r . . ' '♦ ■ • . • • r- • ■* • • .,'..'.., '. May iQth, — In the mornihg ;we had a fine view of Dover Castle, the majestic South Foreland y &c. Got under weigh, and. stood across the Channel', — observed many vessels passing between France and England, Saw the spires of Ca/af«. Beat up at the back of the Goodwin Sands; — observed a three- decked ship in the Dotvns, hoisting the flag of his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence, under a general salute of cannoii from all the shipping. Towards evening, anchored in sight of Margate; but after night-fall, got under weigh again. May igM."— In the morning, anchored again, near a shoal called the Galloper, In the forenoon, weighed. Towards evening, passed Orford-Ness Light -houses, and ^■■•^ anchored TO HUDSON S BAY. anchored in Hoaeley Bay, An officer was immediately sent on shore, to hring on board the final orders. The boat was nearly overturned in. landing, in consequence of the heavy surf on all parts of this coast: however, the officer returned about mid- night, and delivered the orders to the Captain. Nothing could exceed the con- sternation and astonishment of every person on board, to find we were directed to proceed, almost immediately, for Hudson's Bay / — Had we been ordered to the North Pole, there could not have been more long faces among us. Down fell, at once, all the aerial castles which we had been so long building ; and nothing remainielj, but the dismal prospect of a tedious voyage, amidst icy seas, and shores covered with eternal snows. May 2otL — A boat was this day de- spatched to Harwich, from which place we were r ft I: ■M « t, ! i NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE were about ten miles distanti to get on board what few naval stores were wanted to com- plete us for the voyage. Harwich is a small town, with narrow streets, not paved: there are some pleasant walks in the environs. The harbour is a good one, wkh sufficient depth of water for a frigate. The place is well fortified towards the sea, and has a small naval arsenal. A guard- ship is generally stationed at this port, during war. Mat 21^/. — In the morning, His Ma- jesty's ship Unicorn passed us, under an immense press of sail, with a Royal standard flying at her mast-head, which we saluted with twenty-one guns. May 22d. — ^Towards the evening of this day, our Captain received orders to pri. ceed to the Nore, in order to procurt^ ; ijtb to ccnd^ict the ship safe to the Orkneys, We h«d also TO HUDSON S BAY. also another motive In visiting the Niyre at this time, v^hich T may, perhaps, he excused relating, although it hav^ no .mmediate connexion with the voyage that we were ahout to undertake. Previous to our sailing from Spithead, a shipwright hci ongin^c to ! h( 'lock-yard had heen accidental)/ killed, hy our having fired a signal-gun without taking out the shot. Unfortunately the poor man*s wife, at the moment of lis death, was pregnant of her tenth chi d. A suhscription was instantly opened for her, on board our ship* and 4^.60 wa^ the next day paid into her hands. I have since been informed, that the different ships at Spithead followed our example, as did also the workmen of the Dock-yard ; and a handsome sum was collected in the whole. fHo blame could be attributed to any person ; but, to prevent the possibility of such an im- putation, it was thought iiiecessary that the gunner should be tried by a court-martial ; and NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE and it was to assemble this court, that we were now ordered to proceed to the Nore*, t>' ■' . ■ : ■,'.:. ■,•■.'; MAY23fl?.— In the morning, we weighed, with a strong breeze in our favour; and at noco anchored at the Great Nore; — observed a Russian Vice-admiral, with a squadi"on belonging to that nation, at anchor there also. We remained at this place, waiting the arrival of the Hudson s-Bay traders, until the soth ; when the two ships arrived ; accompanied by a brig belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society y bound for the coast of Labrador, whither she was to proceed under our protection, or at least as far as our courses lay together. It is a rule with the Hudson s- Bay Company, to make their ships always break ground . «•; ^^ot f:' ': on ** * The Gunner was tried by a Court-martial, during our stay at the Nore-, and was sentenced, to be reprimanded, and to receive an admonition to be more cautious in future. > i^ 'I ^S-'' •^ TO Hudson's bay'A'^ 9 on the 29th of Mai/ ; although, sometimes/ they do not leave the river Thames before June. The same day on which the Hudson s-Bay ships arrived at the Nore, we werejoined by a new Captain (Stopford) ; our former one (Cawpie//) not wishing, for many reasons, to go the voyage. His loss was most sincerely regretted by all of us: however, our new Commander proved him- self, during the whole time we sailed together, to be one of the most exemplary captains in His Majesty's navy. We con- tinued getting our stores on board until — ' June 4th, — Early this day, we weighed anchor. Being the birth-day of our ve- nerable King, all the English and Russian ships of war were dressed with flags, and made a very gay appearance. ' June 5th. — We anchored twice this day, to wait the change of tide : at first, off the Gunjleet »:S. ¥i, ''.«. June 7ih. — ^The boat returned in the morning, with the purser in sad distress ; eight men having deserted from the boat, from an antipathy to the voyage. June 8th, — A party of soldiers, and an officer, were sent to look for the deserters ; but in the evening they returned, unsuc- cessful. June Qth, — In the afternoon, weighed with our convoy, and beat towards Yarmouth, In the evening, anchored off Aldborough, ^. June a TO HUDtOl^i BAT. II June loM. — In the morning, we again weighed. At noon, anchored at Yarmouth ; and sent a boat on shore, to procure beef and vegetables for the ship's company ; as this was the last place we touched at, in England. Yarmouth is a large straggling place ; consisting of one or two good streets, and many narrow lanes ; with open spaqes here and there, like squares. The church has a most beautiful spire. The town does not contain any magnificent buildings : here is, however, a very fine market-place; and an agreeable promenade, under the shade of two rows of trees, running along the qxiay on the banks of the river Wensum, on the N.w. side of the town. All the soil around the town is barren; which accounts for the waste of room in the buildings, as land is of little or no value. I know not any place in Great Britain which has finer bathing conveniences. In the evening, we again weighed ; and at night-fall • v; \1 passed '^ m K iim'' I ^ iw ^b NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE passed by Hdseborough and Cromer Light- houses. '. . !1 III! i; i June 11/^. — In the morning, we saw the Spurn Light-house ; and towards noon, we passed by Flamborougk Head, in Yorkshire, Towards evening, we had a fine view of Scarborough. . , .A June 1 2th. — A beautiful day, running with a fair wind and smooth sea. In the evening, saw the blue tops of the Cheviot Hills. , June I3th. — A fine fair breeze. Towards noon, passed the Buchan Ness, and had a good view of Peterhead. Towards evening the wind increased to a gale ; — hove-to, until morning. » ■ " ...» ■• * - . . - June I4f^.— In the moriiing, passed the Pentland Frith, in which the tide is like a whirlpool; and, after having run hy Long' ' 1 ^ Uope m\ / 'A. TO HUDSON S BAY. 13 Hope Harbour, we anchored at Siromness, in the Island of Pomona^ the principal of the Orkneys; immediately opposite to which is the Isle of Hoy, having on it a remarka- ble high mountain, in shape very like the Rock of Gibraltar, Immediately on our arrival, the two Hudson s- Bay ships fired seven guns each, to give notice to the inhabitants of their arrival. The visits of the North-west men, as the Hudson's-Bay ships ■ are denominated, creates a sort of annual mart, or fair, in the Orkneys ; as it is from hence that they derive all the necessary supplies of poultry, beef, vege- tables, and even men, to fit them for so long a voyage : — consequently, the Orkney people listen with anxiety for this salute of cannon, which announces the arrival of the N. w. ships ; as almost every person in the island is, in some way or other, interested in their coming. b^lf;: > June I V 7 Ji ■:.^^iii .ill I, 'I V V NARRATIVE Ot A VOYAGE June 1 5th. — ^We were employed in Wa- tering the ship; and found it difficult to procure a sufficient quantity, owing to a great drought which had lately prevailed. I I ; The town of Stromness is an irregular assemblage of dirty huts, with here and there a decent house. There is scarcely any thing deserving the name of a street in the place, although it is said to contain a population of two thousand souls. A ^ few years ago it did not contain above one third of that number. The harbour is small, but very secure : it is defended from the sea by an island called J%e Holmes ; and there is a good summer roadstead outside the island, called the Bach of the Holmes » Fire- wood cannot be procured in the Orkneys, where there arc no trees; but Newcastle coal is always remarkably cheap. About six miles from Stromness is a large lake, called TO HUDSON S BAT. m called Sfonehouse Loch, in consequence of some high flat stones which stand by the side of it, something similar in appearance to Stonehenge, on Salisbury Plain : they bear DO inscription, and seem to have been set on their ends in the same state as when taken from the quarry*: — the view given of them in Barriers Description of the Orkney Islands is perfectly correct. The quantities of grouse, partridge, plover, snipe, &c. in the Orkneys, is astonishing : neither foxes nor hares are to be found; but rabbits are very numerous. There are some spots of good land in the valleys ; but in such a bad state of cultivation, from idleness and want of manure, that at least five weeds are produced to one blade of corrt. Wheat is not grown in any of the V islands ; I* I i < 5 * This is one of the most remarkable examples of tlie Cyclopean architecture of the Celts which is known to exist ; owing to its remote vituation with reeard to the rest of Europe. . .( 1! A V - • NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE islands ; the produce consisting, prin- cipally, in barley and oats. But the chief export of the Orkneys is kelp, ashes ob- tained by the burning of sea- weed*, with which all the shores abound : this proves a most valuable acquisition to those gen- tlemen whose estates border on the sea ; as it sells, on an average, at j^.ll a ton; and is collected, at low water, without much difficulty. The kelp estates produce triennial harvests ; and when tliis , com- modity is gathered, it is sent either to Newcastle, to Dumbarton, or to Leith; great quantities being required for the use of the glass-houses established in those towns. The number of tame geese reared in these islands is really surprising: they wander about the barren hills in flocks, like sheep; and the owners give them- — '■ I I . I. I .11 i _. .i * The Fucus yksieulotus of Linneeus, or Bladder Piuusj called also Sea Oakt and Sea Wrack, The . alkaline sftlt obtained from these ashes is the common carbonate of soda. a TO Hudson's bay, 17 themselves little or no trouble about them^ until they are wanted for sale, or for their own consumption, s .^ . .^n* - ,.i ii.»^^! ? June l6th, — I accompanied some of the officers on a shooting party. This circumstance is merely mentioned to intro-p duce a description of the farm-houses; as we visited many of them during our excursion. The delineation of one will answer for all : and surely there never. wai3 a scene better fitted for the pencil of a Morland! In one corner stood a calf; in another, a sheep and its lambkin ; in the next, walled in with loose stones, a piece of sail-cloth served as a bed for the family; and the fourth corner, as also the sides and roof of the building, were garnished with de- cayed farming implements. The centre of the habitation was occupied by a turf fire, before which some oaten cakes were roast- ing ; and, in the middle of the roof, a large ti^l c square 1!. iHl k u \ * NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE square hole was cut, to allow the smoke to escape. By the side of the fire, in a large and remarkably high rush chair, sat an old woman, with a spinning-wheel before her, endeavouring to still the cries of a very dirty infant that lay in her lap. There was also another apartment to the hut, for the accommodation of the cows, of which they had a considerable number. The tv\ i rooms were not even divided by a door from each other, and the bare earth was the only flooring of either. -** During this day we were still employed in getting water on board, although it is rather difficult to be procured. -e June 17^^. — Our carpenters were busily (employed in affixing ring-bolts to the rudder; from which strong iron chains were brought in at the quarter ports of the ship, in order to secure the rudder against yituii.ri - -J: the ,1 » to HUDSO.VS BAT. the shocks of the drift ice; as we were well aware that we should have to force our way through large quantities of it, in passing Hudson s Straits ; and we after- wards found this to have been a most ne- cessary precaution. We likewise borrowed from the Hudson s-Bay ships the necessary store of ice-anchors, ice-axes, and ice- poles; neither of those articles having been supplied by the Admiralty, probably* from not knowing that they would be requisite. • ^'* June isM. — During the whole of the time that we remained at Orhney after this day, we were busily employed in getting all kinds of necessaries on board. Y3' June 29/A. — We sailed from Orhney, at 8 A.M. with the two Hudson s- Bay ships, and the Moravian Missionary brig> in company. Towards evening it blew a fresh breeze,- c 2 nd fr- 20 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE and the wind veered round against us. At sunset we had a distant view of the Caithness Hills and the Isle of Shetland, r !/t0 ■ , July I3th. — Course run, w.in. 76 miles. In the morning, the wind changed ta N. by E. and blew a moderate breeze. After night-fall we had a faint appearance of the Aurora Borealis^ in the shape of a rainboiv, III 28 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE rainbow, which rendered it peculiarly in- teresting. J . . : .:.;,, ^l ■■■■ i ' I ;Bii • T/r. r f. : ■:!-. ^-^•^ .'^WwJ " 'July 1 4th, — Course run, s.w. by s. 71 miles. At 9 A. M. we tacked about ; and the wind coming fair, we steered n. w. by n. Our ship this forenoon was completely sur- rounded by innumerable flights of sea-gulls* I should imagine that they had been at- tracted hither by some unusual assemblage of fish, as they were all busily employed in attacks on the finny tribe. iiiy-ff*-t' ',~\i^ July I5ih, — Course run, w. by n. lo6 miles. This morning we were going five miles an hour, with a fair breeze and thick weather* It is to be observed, that, with a wind from the South-east or East, we have always had a fog; and I have also noticed this to be the case as far to the southward as the Banks of Newfoundland; although I am utterly incapable to account for it satisfactorily. ^ »ij^^«.m't Since TO HUDSON S BAY. I Since our departure from Stromness, the variation of the compass had been gradually increasing. We this day allowed for a difference of four points westerly, between the magnetic and the true needle ; whereas at Orkney there is only a difference of two points and a half, or 28 degrees. Thus it continued increasing until we arrived within about 300 miles of the settlements in Hudsofis Bay\ when it decreases much more suddenly; falling away, in that short distance, to half a point, or five degrees. West — this being the ascertained variation at York Factory, I should think that no subject could exhibit to an inquisitive mind a more astonishing matter of inquiry, than the singular phaenomenon which I have just noticed. Can any thing be more surprising, than that the variation should increase but eighteen degrees, in a run of upwards of 2000 miles to the westward; and that it should then begin to turn ; and, in the short run of 300 t so NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE 300 miles on the same course, that it should suddenly decrease 4 1 degrees } An officer belonging to one of the Hudson s-Bay ships attempted to account for this astonishing attraction of the needle, by supposing the contiguity of metallic mountains ; but he could state no facts in support of his hy- pothesis : and, although the interior of the N. w. part of America has doubtless been explored, and is even actually colonized, owing to the enterprising spirit of a Selkirk, yet I cannot learn that any metallic moun- tains have been discovered, v/ith a sufficient profusion of ore to cause such an aberration in the compass, and at so great a distance*. *.. ■ ■ ^^ Our latitude this day v^^as 56"^, 35'. n. ; longitude 38^ w. Towards noon, our fair breeze i\, /4 r-v ( , ..v:^ J: \^> * For an accurate Table of the different degrees of variation/ •ee Appendix (A). C. - J S TO HUDSON 8 BAT, /.-- m breeze died away, and we had light winds from the westw July lytk. — Course run, w. by n. ^n. 20 miles. The light vrriable winds 3till continued through this day. . Towards evening we were highly enter-f tained with a combat between a whale and two or three of that species of fish called Winners, The fury with which they engage is surprising. The whale, slowly lifting up his TO HUDSON S BAY. vr 33 his enormous tail, lets it suddenly fall on his opponents with a most tremendous crash; thereby throwing up foam to an amazing height. Although the Finners have incomparably the advantage in agility, yet in size and strength they fall but little short of the smaller whales. The Finners derive their name from an immense fin, which they use with great effect in their attacks on ^he whale. Sometimes they lift up this enormous fin, and let it fall upon their antagonist, in the mannerofa thresher's flail; at other times, they run their whole body perpendicularly out of the water, ex- hibiting a beautiful view of their snow- white bellies. In this position they have the singular power of turning round ; and thus they contrive to fall sideways on the whale, with a shock that may be heard at a considerable distance. • . » The sea was this day covered with an i> oily * ^ '1 1 'I If: 84 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGR orly appearance ; and some old Greenland fishermen, who were on board the ship, gave a marvellous account of its being occasioned by the sperm of the whale. .'V ' July l8th. — Course run w. 4 n. 65 miles. Early in the morning we had a fine breeze from the n. e. Latitude at noon, by an observation of the sun, 57", 24'»n. ; longi- tude, by our account, 4 1°. 1 7'. w. According to some charts, we considered ourselves this day to be in the longitude of Cape Farewell in Greenland. Nothing can exceed the uncertainty that prevails, in almost every chart and book of navigation, respecting the longitude of the Cape in question. In proof of this, I shall quote an extract from the accompanying Memoir to Mr. Purdys Chart of the Atlantic: — " Both the Requisite Tables, and Conmais^ *' £ance de Terns, state the latitude of Cape ** Farewell at 59**. 38'. n., and longitude, per *' chrono- TO Hudson's bay. 35 '* chronometer, at 42**. 42'. w. ; but the Danis/i ** charts place the Cape tioo degrees more ** to the West. We know not which is *' right, or if either; and have, douhtingly, ** placed it in 43". 4o'. w. as a mean between " the two. This is a point on which further " information is particularly required. The " old books and charts place it from 44°. 30'. " to 44°. 45'. w." V M " V Nothing can be a more serious inconve- nience to mariners than this uncertainty respecting the latitude and longitude of places; and it is scarcely to be credited, that so little pains have been taken to ascertain the longitude of Greenland's southernmost extremity. « 'P I' We experienced sharp cold this day, and ascribed it to the winds having blown over the mountains of Greenland, on their way towards us. As the next three days D 2 furnished NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE furnished no remarks worthy an insertion in this narrative, I shall barely notice the course and distance run by the ship on each .day; and the reader may thus pass on to .the 22d. yrn;: ^-i .w /o' "i:- m' \- :":>>i*ix| ^'^ July iQth. — Course run s. w. by w. ' w. -60 miles, "it }i iio;i-:a n^VirJ/i ' -^ ' *uii ;iii^^U July 20/^.— Course run w. by n. -jn. -68 miles. 1 "* '.■■». -i ^'5 •joh:/^ \t?m %^. July 2 1st. — Course run w. 67 miles, i ,'>?*,;.. ■tS'd ^y'^f^fyi-fi^.^ ^ ii' .-^- . :'} • * July 22c?. — Course run n. w, 4 n. 47 jniles. As an indication of our drawing near to some land, we this morning picked up a broken tree, about eighteen feet long, .of the yellow pine species. Although we could not have been less than three hundred miles from the nearest land, it certainly had not been long in the water. Aftet night- lf.;'i^»iUAWi m -^i S TO HUDSON S BAY. 37 Tiight-fall, we were gratified with a most brilliant display of the Aurora Borealis. n< c j ; ^. ^j^^^^"^ ''-'^m:h- m-ni-t^ik,-m:yi July 23c?. — Course run, n. n. w. » w. 23 miles. ':•- ■ --'^--^ ^iK^^-■.^ Early in the morning we saw five Green- land ships, returning to England from the whale-fishery; and shortly afterwards we perceived two ships of w^ar, in the n. w. quarter. At noon we spoke with His Ma- jesty's ships the Victorious and Horatio, They had been to Davis Straits, for the purpose of protecting the whale-fishery ; and the former vessel exhibited a melancholy proof of the ill effects likely to result from the extreme state of ignorance in which our best navigators are placed, relative to the exact situation of the Northern lands. The Victorious had struck on a rock, in latitude 60". 21'. N., longitude 53°. 47'. w. ; entirely owing to the coast of Greenland having been laid down,/bwr degrees wrong in the " ' Admiralty < ,'*r 1: ■'li 38^ NAKRATIVE OF A VOIAGE Admiralty Charts, The consequences likefy to result from the loss of a seventy-four- gun ship, in such a situation, may be easily imagined ; allowing every man to have bden safely conveyed on board the Horatio, The frigate must herself have been short of provisions at the moment ; and in what pos-^^ ' sible way could the captain have provided for the subsistence of nearly six hundred people in addition to lii& own ship's com- pany, in a part of the world where he could not have formed the most distant hope of receiving a supply ? — Fortunately, they were not destined to experience the horrors of so dreadful a situation ; the Victorious was got off the rock again, without much diffi- culty: yet that her danger had been im- minent cannot be doubted, as she was obliged to get a topsail under her bottom ; and at the time when we met with her, there were some apprehensions that she might not reach England in safety ; the leak ,1 tf. : / TO Hudson's BAY. 39 leak being so bad, tha^ the crew were com- pelled to labour incessantly at the pumps. The Horatio of course remained with her until she reached a British port. ^ f 1 After all that has been said respecting the erroneous state of even the Admircdty Charts for the Northern Seas,, yet I do not imagine that the smallest imputation of neglect can be charged to Government upor' . i/t account. It has never yet been thought an object of sufficient national importance, to warrant an expenditure of the public money towards defraying the great expense that must necessarily be in- curred in surveying thoroughly those frozen coasts which border upon Davis and Hudson s Straits. The Greenland mariners are notorious for paying so little regard to the situation of the places they visit, that they are incapable of giving any correct in- formation: and the officers of the Hudson s-: Bay •I 40 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE Bai/ ships have a motive in concealing the knowledge which they actually possess: this I shall notice more fully hereafter. > 4 • • , ( r f il July 24th. — Course run, n. w. | w. 34 miles. . : /rhis morning some slight indication ap*^ peared of a lasting fair wind. The fine mild weather that had prevailed for the last fortnight was far from affording satis- faction to the commanders of the Hudson &^ JBay ships; as they prognosticated much more difficulty in getting through Hudson s^ Straits, the natural consequence of so much calm weather. It would have pleased theml better to have encountered a few gales of wind, even if thqy had proved foul; as- it" requires strong winds to carry the drift ice out of the Straits, which is very likely otherwise to choke the passage. Entering* Hudson s Straits, it is a necessary precaution to keep close in with the northern shore ;- V'"^ , as TO HUDSON 8 BAT. T * V 41 as the currents out of Hudson s and Davis Straits meet on the south side of the en-^ A trance, and carry the ice v/ith great velo- city to the southward, along the coast of Labrador. We had seen, lately, a number of the kind of birds called, by the sailors. Boatswains: they are so numerous to the southward of the Tropic of Cancer, that they are called Tropic Birds. I cannot say whether they are accustomed to seat themselves upon the water or not; because our visitors flew at a great height over the ship, and we could plainly hear their melancholy screams by night as well as by day. Some amongst them have long feathers, like spikes, pro- jecting from their tails ; whilst others in the same flock, and evidently of the same, species, are without them : p'^rhaps these remarkable feathers may serve as distin-; guishing marks between the sexes. At noon this day we w.^re in latitude 58°. 35'. n. longitude 49^ lo'. w.^ In the afternoon,- Ml the i % !l I ' I ' i 42 NARRATIVE or A VOYAGE ■li!!; the Moravian Missionary brig asked, and obtained permission, to part company : she then qwitted us, and steered more away to the wee ard. During the stay of our ship at the Orkneys, I had visited the brig in question, and had there met with an ol4 German Missionary ; from whom I learned, that the difficulty of first getting on term* of intimac) with the Esquimaux was almost insurmountable. This Missionary had him* self been one of the first who succeeded ia so dangerous an object, which could only be accomplished by placing an entire cor^- dence in this wild race of people: he there- fore remained alone with them, conforming to their loathsome habits, and mildly en- deavouring to gain an ascendancy over ■ their minds. It was a considerable time before he dared to attack those established customs which, to him, appeared most ex- ceptionable. Habit had sanctioned poly- gamy amongst them ; although the nature ' TO HUDSON S BAY. %^' of thieir climate, and the difficulty of pro- curing sustenance, had confined that privi- lege almost exclusively to their Chiefs^ Passion was allowed to be pleaded success- fully, in extenuation of murder. It was, therefore, with a trembling, but a resigned heart, that the Missionary first ventured to point out those practices as offences against the Great Spirit. *' Th« Almighty,** said the good Moravian, " assisted my humble " efforts, and my endeaivours were crowned " with success.'* I shall also quote his own words as to the result: — *' On the bleak ** and rocky coast of Labrador, a temple " is now erected to the worship of God, in which the wild Esquimaux raises bis: voice in songs of praise to the Most High. Thirty years of my life have been " dedicated to this employment; and I am " now on my return, to finish my days "amongst the flock which has been so ** manifestly entrusted tp njy care.** . . The t( t( ti n i : I: 44 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE • The Missionary shewed me a TestU" vient, Creed, and Lord's Prayer, in the Esquimaux tongue: but it will be easily, imagined that many deficiencies must have arisen in the first instance; consequently, whenever the Esquimaux were at a loss for^ words to express any new idea, or the name of any article that they had not before seen, the Missionary supplied them with a corresponding German expression ; as the German language, of all others, is most easily pronounced by an Esquimaux. '- An Ejiglish frigate had been oh a cruize in Davis' Straits; and returning thence, along the coast of Labrador, she put into a' little bay, for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water. The afirighted' Esquimaux ^ew to their beloved Missionary, and pointed out the strange vessel as the cause of their fear : they were, however, soon pacified, and returned quietly to their ^^^* ~ occupations. f TO HUDSON 3 BAY. 45 occupations. Nothing, then, could equal the astonishment of the officers, on landing; when, instead of a wild race of savages, prepared to oppose them, they found a small village, inhabited by an inoffensive people, peaceably employed in their daily duties ; ^nd the little children going quietly to -school, with books under their arms. Their surprise, however, must have been greatly increased, when they were given to understand, that all this had been accom^ plished by one man, zealously actuated by a wish of serving his God, in the services he had rendered to these poor Indians *. i^ii^, ; ■— ■'-.:i--' July * For any further particulars respecting the Settlements and progress of the Moravians, on the Coast of Labrador and else- ■where, the Reader is referred to a ** History of the Mission of the United Brethren among the Indians in North America^" in Three Parts, by George Henry Laskiel; translated from the German, by Christian Ignatius La Trobe, 1794. Also to '' The Periodical Accounts of their Missions," publishef' by the Brethren's Society, for the furtherance of the Gospel, at No. 10, Nevil's Court, Fetter Lane, Holborn, London, ; ■■!. 1' 46 NABRATIVE OP A VOYAGE July 25th. — Course run, w. by n, 35 miles. Light variable winds from the southward. We were this morning visited by an officer from one of the Hitdsotis-Bay ships; an intelligent man, who had thirty times performed the same voyage. It was his opinion, that the sharp cold, which we had experienced on the 18th of this month, must have been occasioned by the vicinity of ice; and we should doubtless have met with it on that day, had we not fortu- nately tacked about in time to avoid it. Ourlatitude at noon, this day, was 58". 46'. n., and longitude 50". l6'. w. Towards night- fall, the wind freshened to a fine steady breeze from s. s. w. ; and we could plainly discern a bright appearance in the sky, towards the North; this was believed by every person on board to be a certain indi- cation of ice in that direction. July TO HUDSON S BAY. 47 V July 26//*. — Course run w.byN. 128 miles. — A fine fair breeze all this day ; the ship going about seven miles an hour. In the forenoon, we took on board the chief-mate of the Prince of Wales, (one of the Hudson S' Bay ships,) to act as pilot, or rather to instruct us in the management of our ship, amongst the ice in the Straits. He immediately advised us to raise our anchors, lest the shocks of the heavier masses of ice should break the stocks : we also rove smaller braces to all the yards, that we might be able to manoeuvre the ship with the greater facility. At noon, we were in latitude, by account, 59^ 1 1'. n., and longitude 54®. 20'. w. We now kept our course more to the northward, to prevent the possibility of our falling in with the ice to the southward ; as there are always large quantities drifting out of Hudson s Straits, along the coast of Labrador. Ships do well, therefore, to keep to the northward, until they reach the latitude of Cape Resolution; 1 I ; I ti, I I I' fi L ft*' R > '■i. , ! ■ r 1 f i^\ iL 48 * NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE Resolution; and when that is attained, tliey may haul in n. w. and keep close in to the North shore ; thus making a semicircle round the ice : but they should be particu- larly cautious not to keep too much to the North, until they reach the longitude of 54° w. and are consequently quite clear of the coast of Greenland, July 27th, — Course run n. w. by w. 182 miles. * As we were now getting well to the northward, the air began to feel quite frigid ; and the wind drawing round to the East, we hault vi up North. Latitude, at noon, was 60°, 54'. N. Longitude, 5Q\ 19'. Our distance from Cape Resolution we computed to be about 171 miles. In the afternoon we saw the first iceberg, which was an immense mountain of solid ice, in the shape of an English barn *. Towards • See the Vignette lo p. 1 . a: to Hudson's baV. 49 Towards evening, we passed another tee- berg. It had a complete chain of floating fragments on the lee-side of it, through which we butted our way. We continued to run in for the land, all night, with a fair wind, although it was a very thick fog, and there were numberless icebergs in all direc- tions; indeed, it appeared to me almost miraculous, how we escaped being dashed upon some of them, .t^iq^'kk t .IM i; \ July 28th » — The thick fog still continued, until 9 A. M. when it suddenly cleared up, and we saw the island of Cape Resolution, bearing e. n. e. about eighteen miles distant. We had been long wishing to get into the Straits; and now that object was accom- plished, we as sincerely wished 'iirselves back again into the ocean. The prospect on every side was of the most gloomy nature : tne black and craggy mountains on shore were only visible towards their bases ; .' ''^* E . . their L \ ^ NARJIATIVE OF A VOYAGE their summits being covered with eterrial snows, and the aspect of the countless icebergs, on all sides of us, truly terrific. The strong southerly current continually setting out from all the Northern seas has been hypothetically explained, by supposing that Nature thus supplies the deficiency of water occasioned by the evaporation caused by the heat of the sun between the Tropics. It is not my intention to discuss this philosophical question: suf- fice it to say, that I can bear testimony to the existence of such a current in all the Northern seas, and along the Coast of Lahrador and Newfoundland, facing the Atlantic : and the effect caused by the con- tinual flowing of the waters towards the South, is attended with the most beneficial effects; as the Northern seas are con- sequently cleared of the vast accumulation of ice, which would otherwise infallibly block them up, and render all navigation ., impracticable. ' TO HUDSON S BAY. impracticable. We had taken into the latitude of La^ei2e«o/M/iow,before we bore away to make the land; and although, in running in for the Cape, we still continued to steer a point to the northward of our true course, yet, after all, the southerly current proved so strong, as to set us to the south- ward of our land-fall : and on our making the Cape, it was eighteen miles to the norths ward of us. . ^ ^ » ' • - - J . ^ 1 * f ■ ' ' - - A • " • < ^-•' I I . - ■■■%?•> ', » ^ During the remainder of the day, we were endeavouring, with light winds from the K. E. to get in with the north shore ; and towards evening we saw much field ice to- wards the south. As the setting sun had a different appearance to what it generally exhibits in England, perhaps it may be thought worthy of notice. Although it glit- tered to the eye, and threw a golden tint on the water, yet it produced no rays, and might be viewed, for any length of time, E 2 without ' '^ 52. NARBATIVE OP A VOYAGE without paining the sight by its refulgence. So far was it from bestowing warmth, that the air appeared more intensely cold than it had been during the whole of the preceding day. The clouds, in parallel lines im- mediately above the descending luminary, exhibited, in the most beautiful manner, all the varieties of the rainbow ; the dusky red and deep blue being the most predominant colours. If to all this we add the dazzling reflection which glittered from the snow- capped summits of the rugged mountains, and the shining fantastic forms of the float-^ ing icebergs in the Straits, the prospect will easily be imagined to have excited in our minds those feelings, which induce the ijaariner, as well as the poet, t " To look, through^Nature, up to Nature's God !'* } '. At midnight we passed an immense fce- herg, which roared like a thunder storm ; occasioned, perhaps, by some cavity in its 1 7 z -^ side. ' \ a;; TO HUDSON S BAY. H Side, through which the sea was bursting. It was nearly a calm ; and the surface of the sea was quite smooth at the moment, attended with that gentle undulating swell which is always prevalent in deep waters. \ ^ ■• . ■. ■ , -- , -1. ■-'.-■ :. ■ ■ ^ ■ ■ ■■ - t - ;< . h July 2Qth. — In the morning we were obliged to tack about, in order to avoid a large assemblage of drifting masses, termed by the old seamen a patch of ice : the seals were leaping about in all directions, and some few sea-calves were seen. The ther- mometer in the Captain's cabin, with a rousing fire, stood at 43°. At noon we were plying to windward off Savage Island, which is the next land to the west of Cape Resolution Island, on the north shore. Savage Isle, lying very low, has not so much snow upon it, in general, as the other parts of the coast hereabouts. The next land to the westward of it is called Terra Nivca; owing to its having some mountains, 1 R i W! :PS i' Uii 'f'l 54 NARRATIV£ OF A VOYAGE mountains, about thirty miles from the sea, entirely covered with snow. During the remaining part of this day we continued our course up thi. Straits, but with the weather almost calm. J ;1 July 30th» — ^We were entirely surrounded this day with a patch of broken ice, and it extended as far as the eye could reach. The sun shining bright over the calm surface of the sea, called forcibly to my mind a description I had once read of the Ruins of Palmyra, in the Syrian Desert; the scattered fragments of ice bearing a strong resem- blance to the ruins of temples, statues^ columns, &c. spread in confusion over a vast plain. July Z\st. — Early in the morning of this day we reached a remarkable cape, called Saddle Bach, from the resemblance that it bears to a saddle : and as we were imme- diately \ ~i a, le tie ed it he ice I a of red ies> r a this lied that me- itely i :i:^ iif ! • h ::J SJ TO HUDSON S BAY* 55 diately visited by the Esquimaux, I must, for a time, quit the ship and her proceedings, to describe the appearance, manners, and customs of this singular race, who inhabit the shores of Hudson s and Davis Straits, the northern part of Hudson s Bay, and both sides of the vast peninsula of Labrador" Upon the first intelligence of the approach of the natives, I immediately jumped out of bed, and ran upon deck ; where, on my arrival, the most discordant shouts and cries assailed my ears. Alongside the ship were paddling a large assemblage of canoes, of the most curious construction : these were built of a wooden frame- work of the lightest materials, covered with oiled seal- skin, with the hair scraped off; the skin being sewed over the frame with the most astonishing exactness, and as tight as parch- ment upon the head of a drum. But the most surprising peculiarity of the canoes was, their being twenty ^two feet long, and only - ^ . two jv,« I I ^ II* ■tl % it ; \ I 'iiai NARRATIVE OP A VOVAGK two feet wide. There was but one opening in the centre, sufficiently large to admit the entrance of a man; and out of this hole projected the body of the Esquimaux, visible only from the ribs upwards. Thq paddle is held in the hand, by the middle; and it has a blade at each end, curiously veneered, at the edges, with slips of a sea- unicorn*s horn, On the top of the canoe were fastened strips of sea-horses' hide, to confine the lance and harpoon ; and be- hind the Esquimaux were large lumps of whale blubber, for the purposes of barter. These canoes are only capable of contain- ing one person, for any useful purpose; the slightest inclination of the body, on either side, will inevitably overturn them ; yet in these frail barks will the Esquimaux smile at the roughest sea ; and in smooth water they can, with ease, travel seven miles an hour*. Whilst * See the rough Sketch of a Canoe, made by the Author on the spot. Plate I. , 'f TO HUDSON S BAY. 6/ •'•Whilst I was still busily employed in making my remarks on the canoes of the male Indians, it large open boat arrived, containing about twenty. w«^ men, besides many children. This last boat was steered by a very old man, with a paddle: he was the only male adult amongst them. The women pulled with oars, having a very brpad wash at the extremity; and they cheerfully kept time to the tune of a song, in which they all joined. The boat was built of the same materials as the canoes; that is to say, a frame- work covered with oiled seal-ski^s; but differed, in being shaped more after the European hosits; also, in having a square sail made of seal- skins, with the hair taken off; and owing to this difference, the Hudson s- Bat/ traders have distinguished these boats by the name of Lug Boats; although they never attempt to use the sail, except with a fair wind, It is difficult to give an adequate idea f ■\hf ' ^ ■ 8» NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE idea of the lelight expressed by these poor creatures, on reaching the ships : they jumped, shouted, danced, and sang, to express their joy. And here it should be observed, that the arrival of the ships is con- sidered by the Esquimaux as a sort of annual fair; their little manufactures of dresses, spears, &c. are reserved for the expected jubilee; and when, after long watching, they at last catch a glimpse of the ap- proaching vessels, their exultation know^ no bounds. «;.i'vo Ai:\- 'if, \ -.tTifS The mal : Esquimaux have rather a pre- possessing physiognomy, but with very high cheek-bones, broad foreheads, and small eyes, rather farther apart than those of an European : the corners of their eyelids are drawn together so close, that none of the white is to be seen ; their mouths are wide^ and their teeth white and regular: the com- plexion is a ' :\ ^ 'U i. , 1 i^t, 'f» p ;isiV i: \^ V *i ■ »,■'' 'f I ? 1 02 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE m • 1^1 i i ^^H-; i kettle standing upon it* : also, in a hut, I saw a pan of vegetables, resembling spinach, which bad been boiled into the consistency of paste t. Yet, after all, it is no less certain that an Esquimaux prefers all flesh raw. In proof of this it may be mentioned, that the Commander of the Eddy stone, a Hudson s- Bay ship, having shot a sea-gull, an Indian made signs that he wished for the bird : immediately on receiving it, he sucked away the blood that flowed from its mouth ; then, hastily plucking off the feathers, he in- stantly dispatched the body, entrails, &c. with the most surprising voracity. The knowledge which the Esquimaux possess of the use of fire, is observable in the inge- nuity with which they transform iron nails, hoops, &c. into heads for their arrows, »u.;s. -. ... ■,- .,•■-;. ■ -. ...v;: spearsy _ t • Mr. Heafncy in his Journey to the Mouth of the Copper' mine River^ observes, that the Esquimaux, oa the sea coast to the northward, used kettles made of lapis ollaris. t It was probably Sea-weed; a kind of food eaten as a stew, or soup, by the natives of the Isle of St. Kilda, in the Hebrides, \ . TO HUDSON S BAV. spears, and harpoons. May not their fond- ness for raw flesh have arisen from the scarcity of fuel f There was not a bit of wood to be found on that part of the coast where I landed. !*f;4' ,■1 < lor t We made many attempts to induce the natives to partake of our food. At break- fast, we placed an Esquimaux at table, and offered him every species of food that the ship could afford. He tasted every thing ; but, with a broad laugh, he was sure to eject whatsoever he tasted, over our plates and upon the table-cloth. The only thing they could be induced to swallow was a piece of hog*s lard ; and of this they all partook with avidity. Above all, they appeared to have the greatest aversion from sugar and salt. In their dealings, they manifested a strange mixture of honesty and fraud. At one moment I observed an Esquimaux ; striving, r^ .Hi ijii, fc 64 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE i '** Striving, with all his might, to convey intd a sailor's hands the article for which he had already received his equivalent; and, in ten minutes afterwards, I detected the same man in an endeavour to cut the hinder buttons from my own coat. They value metals more than any other article of barter, and h^ofi most of all. As a specimen of the relative articles of traffic, I shall briefly insert the prices which I paid for some little curiosities*; viz, , - r ♦ :. »■ 1^ i . 5 • < t A seal's-skin hooded frock, quite new, for a knife. A seal's-skin pair of breeches . . . needle. Seal's-skin boots saw. • A pair of wooden spectacles, or rather 'v shades, used by the Esquimaux to f , r , , . . , , ,. / one bullet, defend their eyes against the dazzling | reflection of the sun from the ice . '' A pair of white feather gloves . . . two buttons. A fishing lance or spear ... . file. They * A List is contained in the /Appendix, of the different arti- cles of Esquimaux manufacture which were presented, by the Author, to the University Library at Cambridge; accom- panied, also, by a List of things of a similar nature brought to Bussia by Commodore BillingSy from the n.w. coast of America* 1 % ! \ TO HUDSON S BAf . HI' ) '.'% They have a strange custom of licking with their tongue every thing that comes into their possession, either by barter or otherwise ; and they evidently do not con- sider an article as their property until it has undergane this operation . By way of experi- ment/! gave to a young girl half a dozen iroil nails: she immediately jumped, and shouted, to express her gratitude; and then lick- ing each nail separately, she put them into her boot, that being the depository of all riches among the female Esquimaux, who are entirely unacquainted with the use of pockets. T. could easily perceive that each man had a wife ; but polygamy did not appear to exist amongst them; perhaps more on account of their poverty, and the difficulty of supporting a plurality of wives, than from any idea they may entertain of the impropriety of the practice itself Several of the natives brought their wives on board the ship, and,, in return for a tin spoon or pot, ^" compelled t 'I*, * Mr I t I 1- '1 , \ i m' NARRATIl.7. OF A VOYAGE cortipelled them, nothing loathe to receive our salutations. Nay, one man plainly inti- mated, that i* I wished to hold any private conversation with his lady, he should have no ohjection to her visiting my cabin, pro- vided I rewarded him with an axe. Many of the women had very pleasing features ; but they were so disfigured with dirt, and their persons smelt so strongly of the seal oil, that it required a stout heart to sa- lute even the prettiest of them. .^.. r')^Si^£i On board the ship, they were exceedingly curious in viewing every thing : but how- ever astonished or delighted they might appear in the first sight of any novelty, yet ten minutes was the utmost limit of their admiration. The pigs, cats, and fowls, at- tracted their attention in so remarkable a manner, as to indicate a certainty of their not having seen any such animals before. A sailor threw them all into the most violent ■ : fit M 53 TO Hudson's bay. fit of jumping and shouting, by walking upon his hands along the deck. But nothing seemed to fix their attention so much as Captain Stopford's amputated arm*: they satisfied themselves, by feeling the stump, that the arm was actually deficient, and then appeared to wonder how it could have been lost : but when I made signs to them that it had been severed by a saw, to the credit of their feelings, I must state, that commiseration was depicted on every coun- tenance. We did not perceive an instance, either of man, woman, or child, amongst them, who was in any way crippled or de- formed. • After .-i'. ;.it ^* This gallant officer lost his arm in the attack on Java^ by a cannon*ball. The seamen seeing him knocked backwards by tlie shock, and lying senseless, conjectured thn he had been killed outright ; but as they were bearing him off the field, the Captain recovered his senses, and feeling the hot beams of a vertical sun strik-ng directly on his face and head (his hat having rolled off when he fell), he immediately exclaimed to one of his men, " Damme, Sir! fetch me my hat," F 2 .^ ui ■'■■ f .HI r f' Q 4 NARJIATIVE OP A VOYAGE After breakfast, it was proposed that we should go on shore, and a party accordingly made: we were all well armed, as a precau- tion against treachery ; because this people Jiave been particularly accused of a dispo- sition that way, — whether with or without reason, it is impossible for me positively ^ to say. An Esquimaux, who had bartered his very last covering away for some bauble, went with us, as a sort of pilot. On our way to the shore, we met two of the larg^ women's boats; each steered, as usual, by an old man. They expressed great joy at meeting with us, by singing, shouting, and clapping their hands; and instead of proceeding on toward the ships, they turned their boats, and followed us to the shore. The coast appears to be completely fringed , with small rock^ islands, and these no doubt form a shelter to many good harbours; but the shores of Hudson s Straits have never been thoroughly examined, although a small vessel " TO HUDSON S BAY. 09 vessel might accomplish the task in two sum-i mcrs, with ease ; indeed, a voyage for this purpose would, if well conducted, turn out advantageously, in a mercantile point of view; for although the Hudson s Bay Company's ships do not procure much oil or whalebone from the Esquimaux, it is because they have but little intercourse with this people, and perhaps with only one particular tribe : yet it might be verv profitable to any merchant to send a small strong brig into Hudson s Straits, early in the month of June, so as ta reach Cape Saddle- Bach before the Company's ships arrive. The Hudson s- Bay Company would not wish to interrupt so laudable an attempt towards opening a free inter- course with the wild Esquimaux in those seas; because the profits they derive from the traffic in question are comparatively trifling, when put in competition with the other more important objects of their annual voyage. A vessel intended for this employ should c ■ rii' f" not ■■n 70 *» NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE h 'r 1 ! not remain later ti an the beginning of October in the Straits ; and she ought to be well provided with saws, iron lances, har- poons, files, open knives, kettles, spoons, hatchets, and a few beads and looking- glasses. By coasting along both sides of the Straits, and as far to the southward of Cape Biggs or Cape Smith, she might doubtless gather thirty or forty tons of good oil, besides whalebone and a few skins. But the Master of a vessel, during such an expedition, should be particularly cau- tious in not trusting a boat on shore, unless well armed ; and by no means ought he to admit more than two or three Esquimaux at the same time into his vessel, however friendly they might appear to be. But to return to our party, whom I left pulling in for the shore^ under the guidance' of the naked Esquimaux, who continued pointing for us to proceed still farther to ^^^^' the r . TO HUDSON 8 BAY. % ■ 7\ the west, where some natives, from the bottom of a creek, waved their hands for us to approach. A sort of expostulation took place between these people and our con- ductor, by which it seemed, that the former did not wish us to proceed any farther to the west. We therefore landed, but walked about some time without observing any habitations ; although, from the deers' bones and ashes which lay scattered about the hills, it was evident that a party had not long quitted the spot. From appearances upon the hills, we had reason to suppose that rabbits must be abundant; and we were gradually receding from the sea shore in search of them, when our guide stopped short, and would not be prevailed upon, by any entreaties, to accompany us farther. We could not guess the cause of this extra- ordinary conduct ; but not wishing to give any offence to the natives, we turned about« and descended again to our boats. On our I 1*^ J: '» h^ 'f;; t h 1' iV, 72 V I NARBATIVE OF A VOYAGE way to the beach, we were joined bysomQ young gids, to »vhom we had been, per- haps, rather pointedly attentive on board the ships : they continued to pester us with the continual whine of this people, repeating incessantly the word **Tillitay! pillitay J pillitay !'* signifying " Give us something:'' and having now stripped us of every thing, by their solicitations, they only seemed to have acquired an incitement to make new demands. It is generally the case with all barbarous nations, that the receiving of a gift ?^ppcars to them to confer a right to lev) fre ih contributions : therefore, in all dealing? with savages, it is advise- able to teach them that something will be expected in return for every present bestowed; and the equivalent should< be strenuously insisted upon, let it be of ever so trifling a nature. A departure from this rule may, indeed, be necessary in the first opening of a communication with a strange ^*/ people ; ■% TO Hudson's bay. ff^ people ; but, even then, the profents ought; only to be bestowed on the principal chief- taine, priests, and women. t As we were upon the point of re-embark^ ing, one of our party offered ♦ ^ young girl, who stood on the beacli, )f snuffj shewing her, at the same t aw, i.owit wa^ to be used. She imitated her instructor witl^ great exactness, giving a hearty sniff; but it was attended with rather a violent effect ; a torrent of blood inbtantly gushing from her nose. Enterta ning some apprehensions lest the natives should imagine that we had been guilty of a premeditated injury to the poor girl, we all made a point of taking snuff before her: this had the desired effect, in convincing them that no serious evil was to be apprehended ; and the young woman went, at my request, to wash her nose in a peighboqring pool. Unfortunately, the cold water produced a contrary effect to what was intended; 1 i. ' I t hi 1 ■■w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^4' ^ i.O ■ 40 ^^^ M^^l ■tt Uii 12.2 •B .... HI 20 I.I !^iy4u^ FhotograiJiic Sdenoes Corporalion 4s 7? WKT MAM STIMT WnSTII,N.Y. MAM (716)t72^S09 4^4 ^^^ \5^ ^ , 74 NARkLATIVB OF A VOYAGE intended ; the blood again streaming from her nose: yet so far was this mild creature from being offended, that she smilingly held forth her hand to me, with the old ex- clamation of ** Pillitay ! (Give).** I cut two brass buttons from my coat, and gave them to her ; and with this atonement she was quite satisfied. The fact is, as we afterwards discovered, that bleeding at the nose is a most common incident among the Esqui- maux ; and it is certain to follow the least exertion. Possibly this may also be occa^ sioned by the quantities of raw flesh they devour daily. Perhaps some readers may deem an inci- dent like the foregoing of too trifling a de- scription to merit a recital ; but the manners, dispositions, and customs of a wild people may be better judged of from asimple relation of the most trivial circumstances, than from any inferences which the narrator himself might TO HUI>SON*S BAY. n. might presume to draw from them : there*^ fore I would run the chance of being thought jejune, or even tedious, rather than incur the greater risk of misleading others by my own weak conclusions. Embarking again, we pulled along shore, towards the west, among barren rocky islands, until we at last got sight of some huts on an eminence at the bottom of a creek; and putting ashore, we examined them minutely. They are more properly tents thaii huts, because they are erected much ^fter the fashion of a marquee: a triangle supports the tent at one end, and two poles, fastened at the top, at the other : over all is thrown a covering of seals' -skins sewed together, the hair being scraped off*: they are equally pi ■to m\ if ni n t ■*f n ^ NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE til m equally impemous to air or water, and the light is much the same as in the interior of an European linen tent. At the lowep end of their dwelling« is a flap of seaFs-skin, left loose, to answer the purpose of a door; and when this is thrown back, a person must stoop low toenter. If a whole family happen tobeabsent from their home at thesametimey the only security for their property, during the time they are away, consists in a few loose stones piled against the flap of seal- skin which coyets the entrance to th^ tent : and although they be not rigidly honest towards strangers, yet the Esquimaux appear to have a ' n t: ! ^ f .... c 78 NARRAtlVE OF A VOYAGE "IS iu In #* when I ofiered him a knife, with the usfual expression, *' Chi/mo (barter),** he smiled,' as I thought, rather suspiciously ; and taking the quiver gently out of my hand, he replaced it under the skins ; at the same time, offering me an unfinished bow, with- out a string, in exchange for the knife. As often as I continued to point to the quiver, and make signs that I wished to* purchase the set complete, he seemed to feel confused, and endeavoured instantly to draw off" my attention from the subject. I tried at each tent, with no better success ; and it struck me, from appearances, that the Esquimaux have some superstitious ve-' neration for their bows and arrows: but their hiding them may be intended as a compliment to their visitors, or an as- surance of their security whilst under that roof. None of the canoes that visited us, during our stay in Hudson s Straits, had either bow or arrows on board ; conse- quently. \ r TO HUDSON*S BAY. ! 70 quently, they are only used by the Esqui- maux in their wars, and not for the purpose of killing birds or fishes < After having said this respecting their singular attachment to their weapons, perhaps it will be ex- "^ pected that those articles are curiously ma- nufactured and ornamented: but the bow is merely made of two pieces of plain wood, firmly corded together, and rarely strengthened at the back with thongs of the sea-horse*s hide ; the string is formed of two slips of hide or dried gut; the arrows are headed, either with iron, sea-horse*s teeth, sea-unicorn*s horn, or, in some few instances, with stone*; and the whole fa- brication of the bow and arrows does not surpass the workmanship of an English school-boy. In la' ■ - • Some of the arrows bron^t to England by the Author were barbed with^tn/, and exactly resemble the arrow-heads fov;nd in the Tomb of the Athenians in the Plain of Marathon. IL. 1,' r l^\: W ' 80 MABRATIVE OF A VOTAOB In one of their tents, I sa¥(r a fen^ale far advanced in pregnancy; she was sitting upon the ground, closely wrapt in skins as high as her hips ; and during the whole of my stay, she never attempted to rise. It may now be proper to relate an anecdote of a very interesting nature; which I re- ceived upon such indisputable authority, that it will not admit of a doubt, as to its veracity. I i The land to the northward of Churchill Factory, in Hudson s Bay, is inhabited by Esquimaux, who, contrary to the general customs of this people, employ them- selves in hunting. They carry their furs annually to Churchill Factory, for the purpose of traffic. In one of their pe- riodical visits, a young woman was seen amongst them, having a sickly infant in her arms, respecting whose health she ap- peared to be particularly solicitous; and as a. TO HUDSON S BAV. . '! as some of the domesticated Indian women in the factory, belonging to the nation of Cree Indians, partly understood the Esqui" 97iai/2^ tongue, the young woman explained to them, that, as the infant was her first- born child, if it should unfortunately die, her husband would undoubtedly put her to death. The infant expired shortly after this explanation took place; and some Europeans visiting the Esquimaux encamp- ment a day or two afterwards, made in- quiries respecting the unhappy mother; when the Indians silently pointed to the spot where the poor victim was interred! T .This ircumstance has given rise to an assertion, that if a first-born child die be- fore it reaches a particular age, the mother, is certain of being immolated, for a sup- posed want of attention to her infant. I had. no means of ascertaining this singular custom myself; but I have before ob- served, that there did not appear either a > G sickly ■■kr h2 r u 82 NAURAT1V£ OF A VOYAGE w i n i I sickly or deformed child or adult amongst them. Their fire-places, as before stated, are outside the tents ; and they have no need of any in the interior, as the seal-skins that cover them are like parchment oiled, and will not admit the wind» nor give egress to the breath ; therefore their habitations are not only warm, but at mid-day, when I visited them, they were oppres- sively hot. With respect to their winter residence, I can say little or nothing. Most people suppose that they live in caves, by lamp-light; but the Abb^ Raynal, who mentions the Esquimaux in his History of the East and West Indies^ is of a difierent opinion. As the Abbd is both correct and incorrect, in many points of which I had a good opportunity to judge, perhaps it may not be amiss to give an extract from the pari of his work relating to the Esauimaux Indians, "This V 4)< I i < TO HUDSON S DAY. $3 t« it *t tt 4t tt *t tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt tt ** This sterility of Nature extends itself to every thing. The human race are few in number, and scarce any of its individuals above four feet high. Their heads bear the same enormous proportion to their bodies as those of children : the smallness of their feet makes them awk- ward and tottering in their gait : small hands, and a round mouth, which in Europe are reckoned a beauty, seem al<- most a deformity in these people ; because we see nothing here but the efFects of a weak organization, and of a cold that contracts and restrains the springs of growth, and is fatal to the progress of animal as well as vegetable life. Besides all this, their men, although they have neither hair nor beard, have the appear- ance of being old, even in their youth : this is partly occasioned by the formation of their loiver Up, which is thick, fleshy, and projecting beyond the upper. Such are the Esquimaux, who inhabit not only G 2 the II- " V- it! it:!; m 84 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE " the coa8t of Labrador, from whence they ** have taken their name, but also all that «* tract of land which extends from the " point of Bellisle to the most liorthern ** TpSiTt of America, . . •• »• »> ** The inhabitants of Hudson's Bay have, •* like the Greenlanders, .a flat face, with " short, but not flattened noses ; the pupil •• of their eyes yellow, and the iris black. ** Their women have marks of deformity " peculiar to their sex ; amongst others, very ^" long and flabby breasts. This deformity, ''which is not natural, arises from their " custom of giving suck to their children ** until they are five or six years old. They " frequently carry their children on their ** shoulders, who pull their mothers* breasts "with their hands, and almost suspend '* themselves by them. ** It is not true, that there are races of " Esquimaux entirely black, as has been ** supposed tii TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 85 t4 «t tt H tt *t tt tt tt tt tt tt tt ti tt tt tt tt tt suppose^^i and afterwards pretended to be accounted for ; neither do they live under ground. How should they dig into a soil, which the cold renders harder than 3tone ? How is it possible they should live in caverns, where they would be in- fallibjy drowned by the first melting of the snows > What, however, is certain, and almost equally surprising, is, that these people pend the winter under huts, run up in haste, and made of dints joined together by cements of ice, where they live without any other fire, but that of a lamp hung up in the middle of the shed, for the purpose of dressing their game, and the fish they feed upon. The heat of their blood and of their breath, added to the vapour arising from this small fiame, is sufficient to make their huts as hot as stoves. H •0- ! -jj '.' The Esquimaux dwell constantly near " the t t. ! '■ !. -C 'hi Ii' \ 86 \ ; NARRATIVE OF A VOTAGE: " the sea, from whence they are sup- ** plied with all their provisions. Both *' their constitutions and complexions par- *' take of the quality of their food. The *• flesh of the seal, which is their food, and " the oil of the whale, which is their drink, ** give them an olive complexion, a strong " smell offish, an oily and tenacious sweat, ** and sometimes a sort of scaly leprosy. *' This last is probably the reason why the ** mothers have the same custom as the *• bears of licking their young ones. i; * '* This nation, weak and degraded by " nature, is, notwithstanding, most intrepid " on a sea that is constantly dangerous. " In boats, made and sewed together like " so many borachio*s, but at the same time " so well closed that it is impossible for " the water to penetrate them, fhey follow ** the shoals of herrings through the whole '^' . "of \\ TO HUDSON S BAY. ^ " of their polar emigrations, and attack the *' whales and seals at the peril of their' (( lives. 1 'r'!f>f • :ir:iiu->^f^L^I^tMki).- ftcr-At t ji^ar' ' " One stroke of a whale's tail is suffi- " cient to drown a hundred of these assail- '' ants; and the seal is armed tvith teeth, to " devour those he cannot drown : hut the ** hunger of the Esquimaux is superior to ** the rage of these monsters. They have " an inordinate thirst for the oil of the ** whale, which is necessary to preserve ** the heat in their stomachs, and defend " them from the severity of the cold. In- " deed, men, whales, birds, and all the '^^^ ijuadrupeds and fishes of the North, are " supplied by nature with a degree of fat, •* which prevents the muscles from freez- ing, and the blood from coagulating. * Every thing in these Arctic regions is either oily or gummy, and even the trees ** are resinous. "The (C c< ^ ; "»t: [ H %'. i I 88 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGB Fii" -i,^' The Esquimaux are, notwithstanding, "subject to two fatal disorders ; the scurvy, ** and loss of sight. The continuation of ** snows upon the ground, joined to the ** reverberation of the rays of the sun on ** the ice, dazzle, their eyes in such a man- " ner, that they are almost constantly " obliged to wear shades of two, pi^eces of f'very thin wood, through which small " apertures for the light have been bored '** with fish-bones. Doomed to six " months* night, they never see the sun 1* but obliquely; and then it seems rather *« to blind them, than to give them light. ** Sight, the most delightful blessing of '^nature, is a fatal gift to them, and they " are generally deprived of it when young, ** A still more cruel evil, which is the " scurvy, consumes them by slow degrees : " it insinuates itself into their blood, and " changes, thickens, and impoverishes the " whole mass. The fogs of the sea, which oAH '» •' they K TO Hudson's bay. ^^ 89 " they inspire ; the dense and inelastic air *' they breathe in their huts, which are ** shut up from all communication with the ''external air; the constant and tedious *' inactivity of their winters.; a mode of life ** alternately roving and sedentary ; every "thing, in short, tends to increase this "dreadful malady, which in a little time " becomes contagious, arid, spreading itself "through their abodes, is transmitted by cohabitation, and perhaps likewise by the means of generation. . (( if " Notwithstanding these inconveniences, " the Esquimaux is so passionately attached " to his country, that no inhabitant of the " most-favoured spot under Heaven quits " it with greater reluctance, than he does " his frozen deserts. The difficulty he finds " in breathing in a softer and cooler cli*- " mates may possibly be the reason of this " attachment. The sky of Amsterdam, " Copenhagen, vi I. !'<■, f "•'( 60 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE m n ! ^* Copenhagen, and London, though con- ** stantlj obscured by thick and fetid va- '• pours, is too clear for an Esquimaux. "Perhaps, too, there may be something in *^ the change of life and manners more " contrary to the health of savages than the *' climate : it is not impossible but that the *' indulgences of an European may be *• poison to an Esquimaux, — Such are the •• inhabitants of a country discovered, in <* 1610, bi/ Henry Hudson T Although many parts of the foregoing extract are strictly descriptive of the Esqui- maux, yet it is very evident that the Abb^ Raynal has undertaken to describe a people whom he never saw : consequently, nothing can be more absurd than those remarks which, it may be observed, I have particula- rized : and I shall now notice them, in the order in which they occur. In TO HUDSON S DAY. 91 In the first place, the Abbd says, that ** scarce any of the individuals are above four feet highr It has been before noticed, that, of all those whom we saw, a fair average standard might determine their height to be between five feet five inches, and five feet eight inches : moreover, we even saw some of the females five feet seven inches high. In the next place, he observes : ** Their heads hear the same enormous proportion to their bodies as those of childret^* This, again, is about as fabulous as those old stories of a race having been discovered with two heads. There is certainly nothing peculiar about the heads of the Esquimaux, to distinguish them from the Europeans; unless, indeed, we except the enormous quantity of thick, coarse, straight, black hair, which covers them : and this last fact will bear rather hard upon the next marvellous remark of the Abbe's, in which he asserts .that they have neither hair nor beard! The amazing f 'Sm H Mil r III >. I:: \ . Uni 92 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE amazing coarseness of their hair, which ■generally is as thick as a mat on their heads, is, of all others, the most likely characteristic to strike the attention of a stranger: they have also a straggling beard upon the chin and upper lip ; although, certainly, it must be admitted that the beard never grows thick or 'busby. : j.4;^ijci^i4»^i^d<-iA^pi*-'i .-'^^^^ u^^l at M , The ag^d appearance of the Esquimaux is, as he says, owing to the formation of I their lower lip! — ;Being able to adduce, if necessary, the testimony of . a hundred wib- .nesses to prove tiie truth of my assertions, I shall content myself with simply stating, that there is no such _pro;ec(jo/i of the louder lip as the Abbe has described. He states that the Esquimaux have taken their name from the coast of Labrador ; but Esquimaux, or Skimaux, is an expression, in the lan- guage of the Cree and other inland Indians, •^ signifying •^ " TO Hudson's bay. "^'' 93 signifying ** eaters of raw flesh T and they have bestowed this appellation on the maritime Indians, in contempt ; as there has always been a most deadly hatred between them. .^^ »ii Sift ^^ h^'^\iim-'f\''>*^\ Then again; with a bold dash of his pen, the Abbd peoples the tvhole of Hudson s Bay with Esquimaux: whereas, in fact,! they occupy but a very small 'proportion of it, when compared with the vast extent of territory inhabited by the different tribes of Hunting Indians, the inveterate enemies of the Esquimaux, The northern and unex- plored piarts of the Bay, and the western shore of Labrador, from Cape Diggs to. the southward, ate alone inhabited by the latter; whilst the whole of the western and southern shores are peopled by the former. I know not what could have induced . ' him, ij '> hi' Lft:.,l I ' f 04 NARRATIVE OF A VOTAGE ■; I ) ; him, also, to describe the Esquimaux as having " the pupil of their eyes yellow, and the iris black :" this is not true ; but I sup- pose that such a supposition may have arisen from that peculiar contraction of the eye- lids which has already been noticed in the foregoing part of this Narrative. It is not less absurd to affirm, that " the seal is armed ivith teeth, to devour those he cannot drown,** than to say, that the hare is armed with teeth, to dc/our those dogs from which she cannot escape ; — the former being almost as timid an animal as the latter; and there cannot be much danger from the rage of that monster, who coolly suffers a man to strike him a blow over the nose, which puts an almost immediate end to his existence. I- I believe Raynal to be very correct in his remarks on the prevalent diseases of the Esquimaux ; 5|n TO HUDSON S BAY. y 95 Esquimaux; but he goes too far« in asserting that " thei/ are generally deprived of sight when young,'* Sore eyes, indeed, are common amongst them; but there were many old men without this complaint, and few of the women were troubled with it. *' Such,** he concludes, " are the inhabt-* tants of a country discovered, in l6io, by Henry Hudson.'* — However, if curiosity should lead any person hereafter to visit the shores of Labrador, in the hopes of meeting with a race of people four feet in height, with enormous heads without any hair on them, and yellow eye-balls, he will be grievously disappointed ; and so far are they from being that miserable de- graded race which the Abb^ describes then^ to be, that they are really possessed of industry, ingenuity, and courage; and certainly as far superior to the disgusting Jlottentot, as ^nEuropean is superior to that race of men. Aflb^r i >^ ^'>.' I' '! t h Pi I 06 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAOf After Laying ventured to correct these errors of the Abb^, it would be injus- tice if I did not . bear testimony to the authenticity of his description in other respects. The scaly leprosy, which he mentions, is common amongst them : we at first believed it to be the small-pox, to which it bears a great resemblance; but, from an attentive inspection being made by Mr. Arnot, our surgeon, he was of opinion, that the latter disease had not as yet reached them, or that, if it had, it must have been in its mildest form. Almost all the men are afflicted with op^/^a/- mia, and wear the wooden shades which the Abb^ has described ; but, as I before mentioned, i^w of the women labour under this disease. The pendant breasts of the latter have certainly a disgusting appear- ance ; yet it is so common amongst them, that one of the young girls shewed me, with conscious pride, that her breasts had not 'N TO hi/dson's bay. * ^ »sr not as yet been thus relaxed ; intimating, that she difl!ered from the other dusky damsels in this respect, and was there- fore to be considered as an object of greater admiration. From which it is evident, that they consider long breasts as a defor- mity, even among themselves. uv With respect to their winter habitations, it is more probable that the Abbd is correct, than that those persons are so, who enter- tain the notion of their residing in caverns ; but it is not certain that the Esquimaux Hvf 'in a statS of total inactivity during the' winter: they must, doubtless, leav^ their retreats daily, in search of food : and tha^ they d6 not depend on the water fbr all their supplied, is very evident, from the A'timbefr 6f dieeif-sMndV^hich maybe obl^ed ifl eVery lia1>itation. •i5lnt7/ Oli . l.':lj It is now pretty well ascertained that tlib ^'^"'''^' ^ n tribes h ^' iF I, L., \ \ Sii' ; m #0 NAKRATIVE OF A VOYAGE tribes oi Esquimaux, inhabiting the northern shores of Hudson t^. Straits, migrate, in the fall of the year, towards the south ; for the double purpose of taking up their winter quarters, and of procuring fuel a id game amongst the pine-tree foKi^-ts ot Labrador* The northern shore of Hudson s Straits is, from end to end, a barren rock :. having no mark of vegetation, except here and there a tuft or two of wild sorrel, or scurvy-grass : consequently, the wooden frame-work of the canoes, the poles for their summer-tents, and the handles of their fishing- spears, can only be procured by the Esquimaux during their annual migrations to the coast of La- brador. Add to this, that, on our visit to their tents, we observed five or six large boats, h!5rled irp on the shore, and com- pletely larib -, that, of those who have written upon this subject, no one ever personally isited the Esquimaux : neither is it a surpi ung thing that they have not done this, .ecause the Esquimaux have always been repre- sented hostile to strangers, prone to treachery, and exceedingly disgus ng in their persons. ,;^ii;ji . . . J^X>t iUO ;^55g^-^/ After V \ i ■ ^ fc-- t 102 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE After iving their huts, vsre stood on the top of a hill, vv^ith the whole of the remain- ing population of the place around us : — I say, the remaining population ; because many of the natives w^ere still trafficking on board the ships. From their numbers, I should think that either several families must reside in one tent, or that there were other hamlets along the shore, at a short distance, from whence we had visitors ; as the assemblage on the hill with us consisted of ten men, twenty women, and fourteen children ; and yet there were only nine finished tents, and four or five in the frame. < i"^ -to j1 Nothing, as before observed, can be more troublesome than the continual solicitations of these people for gifts ; men, women, and children, tormented us incessantly with •* Fillitay ! pillitay ! pillitay /** It became therefore, at last, absolutely necessary, in our J i ■i ■ TO Hudson's bay. ' 103 our own defence, to invent some means of diverting their attention from these impor- tunities. Accordingly, cne of our party, who was well acquainted with the manners of the Indians in Hudson s Bay, began a song in the language of the Cree tribe. The Esquimaux gaped with great astonish- ment and evident pleasure, preserving the mo6t profound silence, imtil he gave a loud shout, as a finale ; when they sat up an uni- versal shouting and jumping, and it ap- peared as if they were half beside them- selves with delight : yet we were certain that they understood nothing of the sense of the song. We thought this a good opportunity to petition them for a simi- lar favour : our signs were instantly com- prehended, and a ring immediately formed, consisting entirely of women, with the exception of an old man, whom we re- cognised to have seen before, as steers- man of one of the large women's boats. This i? I ■kl t ^ ,J I" t iwt»»itf S:i; 1 ' m NARRATIVB OF A VOYAGE Ml This old man began the song; walking, at the same time, in a circle; followed hyi the women, with their backs to each other. At a certain turn in the air, the wom^n all raised their voices; I shall not $ay in a cborqs^ its it appeared more like a continuatioii of the song. After a short time, th^ women suffered their Voices to die gradually away, in the most plaii^ve manner ; and the old man again resumed the spn^ alone, until a similar turn again brought in th0 women's voices* This alternation lasted a considerable time ; duriqg which they stiU continued to walk round iJn a frird^, and all the while bp^t^Wf^d.thq wxist friendly smiks upon KifticjMeantim^, the men 9tood scattered oUiside the ring ; and whenever the old sian ]%6umed hia isong^ ; ithey junCiped^ shouted, : and laughed, iti> the iaQst extrava- gant manner.. Ode of the meit at lalst kissed two i^f the females^ making plain> signs for ! I TO Hudson's bay. 105 us to take the same liberty, in rotation, with the whole circle; at the same time uttering, repeatedly, the exclamation, " Coo^neeJ" We, however, pretended npt to com^ prehend his meaning, as we were, not at all desirous of so indiscriminate a salu- tation. I noticed one of the women ear- nestly making the same gesticulations, and crying out " CoO'tiee /** also ; but as we did not comply, they soon after finished ;thc song. We adopted their own methoc. of jumping and shouting, to express our satis^ faction; at which they seemed particularly well pleased. HnnO]"n')':;f> fjbl^^i oil'// " A\lV\ Jciilii'J iViZliJuOi J 4:' ./T Preparing now to leave ^his interesting spot^ wre descended to the «oa, follpwqd by the wiiole of the natives? and a* I turned about to observe if theue were any thing belonging to their teiits which had before escaped our notice, my eyes rested upon a _jL group i' ■ I (.1 ■ ^fc 4.,,;: ;i'! w. 106 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE I i |i 1 U ' group of about a dozen huge dogs, around a piece of whale blubber. It is really sur- prising what numbers of these animals the Esquimaux uselessly support during sum- mer; but they are amply repaid by the bene- fits derived from them in the winter ; as the dogs are then employed to drag the sledge of their owners, after the manner of the rein- deer in Lapland. In Newfoundland, and in its environs, large dogs are also used, for the purpose of transporting fire-wood, and other articles, over the snow : and I have been assured, by a respectable merchant, who resides occasionally at Lance-a-Loup Bay on the southern coast of Labrador, that he has travelled one hundred miles in twenty-four hours, in a sledge drawn by teni brace of dogs : they are not accustomed to reins, but two well-trained dogs are placed foremost, and the whole are then managed by a singular kind of whip, the use I f • \ ■\ S/eifgr (iniM'n fiv Dofrs. used by KnropMii TnuUr.f iit Jfiuhons JiiiynnJ on the Southern Coast ofZabnufor it'i", yja/i^ Canoe off/ie Ore /ndui/is in //tn/xofus- Jinj: TO IT' ^T) son's bay. lor use of which it is difficult to acquire, as the handle is but three feet long, and the lash fifteen.* After giving away amongst the natives all the metals we possessed, even to the the buttons of our coats, we embarked; and resting upon our oars, at a trifling di- stance from the shore, we gave them three hearty cheers. This was merely intended by us as an experiment; but the effect pro- duced by it surpassed in interest any thing that we had yet seen amongst this people. ' ' '• •■If 'Cm 1, The echoes of our huzzas had scarce sub- sided, before the three young girls, who had attended us the whole day, stepped down to the edge of the water ; having each of them previously drawn on a pair of gloves made of white feathers. They first '''''^' held * See the Plate. if. HtJ, ,. 108 NABRATIVB OP A VOYAGE held out their arms, in an horizontal posi- tion, with the fingers extended ; then waved them to and fro, with an undulating motion; and, at last, suddenly sunk them towards the e^th. Again, recommencing for a short time the waving of their hands, they finished this affecting ceremony by extending both arms, to their full extent, towards the right side, pokiting their snow-white gloves towards the sky. They continued to repeat the same motions without the least variation, until we began to pulf away from the shore; when they ceased entirely, and retired into the crowd of na- tives, who had stood behind the three girls . during the foregoing exhibition, and, in profound silence, appeared to be watch- ing every motion. Never had we seen a more interesting spectacle: the young Esquimaux kept the most exact time witli each other, and accompanied their ges- l:vires by the most graceful motion of their TO HUDSON fc ^ When TO HUDSON S BAY. HI When Mr. Hearne travelled to the n. w. in search of the long- sought passage to the Southern Ocean, he was escorted by a party of Cree Indians, and was himself an eye- witness of the massacre of an Esquimaux tribe ; although he used his most earnest entreaties with his conductors, '•o soare an innocent-looking young i^ • • •» had supplicated his protection : the Indians frowned furiously upon him ; and asking, with haughty contempt, if he wanted an Esquimaux wife, they speared her to death on the spot*. iiA\ . i:\ii •.yji\^:i-'.. It is rather remarkable, that the habitations of the Esquimaux had never before been visited by the officers of the Hudson* s- Bay ships, although they had often landed in the Straits: but this may be explained in two ways. In the first place, the Esquimaux *^ See Hearne' s "Journey to the Northern Ocean" p. 154, London, 1795. ? rk. fcfi.. , ^1 I i i ■ \ 112 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE ■■t-.M . j';ijr Esquimaux are evidently anxious to conceal their places of abode ; secondly, the com- manders of the Hudson* S'Bai/ ships have directions from the Company not to go on shore amongst the Esquimaux themselves, nor to send their boats; and they have orders also to be continually on their guard, in all communications with this people. Possibly these Orders have been issued since the horrid termination of an attempt to establish a permanent white whale fishery at Richmond; and probably that circum- stance may have given rise to the regulation. I shall relate the dreadful story in the sequel, wheh f rcacli that part of my Narrative where it will be necessary to give a short description of the factories in Hudson* s Bay : it vvould be considered as too long a digression to insert it at pifesdiStf- ' #e' had the good fbrttin^^^ thercforfe, to be the first Europeans who, for the last forty years, have visited the habitations AS TO Hudson's bay/^'* 113 habitations of the Esquimaux. I have thus been enabled to describe them fully, from my own observations. And there is another point upon which I am able to speak positively/, although the circumstance did not fall under my own inspection : I allude to the manner of disposing of their dead. ■•Tt'^i His Majesty's ship firazew. Captain Stirling, in the year 1813, convoyed the Hudson s- Bay ships into the Bay. Captain Stirling and some of his officers landed in the Straits, but could not find any habitations of the natives : however, in wandering about the hills, they discovered an object of no less curiosity ; namely, the dead body of an Esquimaux : it was closely wrapt in skins, and laid in a sort of gully between two rocks, as if intended to be defended from the cold winds of the ocean : by the side of the corpse lay the bow and arrows, spears, and harpoon of the deceased; together with a tin pot, L containing '^tamrt m utr- ; •■ t . • » m. '^ It'. 114 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE ^ containing a few beads and three or four English halfpence: the last articles had evidently been procured by the deceased in traffic with the Company's ships. if^v^-i The reason of the body having been laid on the surface of the earth, is in consequence of the impossibility of penetrating the flinty rock, of which the whole coast is composed ; and the custom of depositing his arms by the side of the corpse of a deceased Indian, is common to many barbarous nations.^ . .■■,_,,.,.;., As * This practice was common to almost all the antient world; especially to the Celtic and Gothic tribes, as mani- fested by the antiquities now found in their sepulchres. Pos- sibly, therefore, the Asiatic origin of the Esquimaux may hence be deduced. The same custom also exists among the Greenlanders ; who are, in fact, a branch of the Esquimaux, " They like," says Crantzy " to make the grave in some remote high place, laying a Uttle moss upon the bare ground (for the rock admits of no digging), and spread a skin upon it Near the burying spot they deposit the kajak and darts of the deceased, and the tools he daily used." — See Crantxs Greenland^ vol, I, p, 237> London, 1 J6j, C \^ •ro Hudson's bay. 115 ^ As it may be expected that something should be said respecting the government and religion of the Esquimaux, I shall briefly state, that they did not appear to me to trouble their heads with either. They certainly paid great respect to the old man who sang to us the song before mentioned ; but it does not necessarily follow that he was either a prince or a priest. It is pro- bable that they venerated him more on account of his age, than from any civil or ecclesiastical authority with which he was invested. But the Esquimaux, and all other nations around Hudson s Bay, have a notion of a superior spirit, whom they concur in styling Manito, or Good Spirit, It is not known whether the Esquimaux have any idea of an Evil Being; but the Cree Indians imagine that there is a great number of that species, whose sole delight consists in tormenting mankindt. With i: 4i^|: t Moscketos are considered as among the winged agents of the Evil Spirit^ by some of the North- American tribes. 12 ■ ■" •-' •{-• 116 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE With respect to the language of the Esquimaux, I have been able to collect a fe\v specimens : and I shall insert, against each word, in what part of the coast each expression was ascertained to be in use, and the authority from whence I derived my information. Words. Chymo PiUitay / We-we Wau-ve MuckMhameek . . Kippy Swau, beck . Muck-tu Twau-ve / Tuck-tu Kiack . Omiack j Kannau weet amcg Ye meek Hennelay Aunay Cob-loo-nak .... Mai Nagga Mai ..... Karrack Peo-me-wonga . . . Ak-ka-karor mapock Signification. Where used. Barter. Give me some- thing. A white goose. An egg. A knife. A saw. A deer. Go away — be- gone. Seal blubber. Canoe. A ship. A dart. IVater. A woman. Far off. An Englishman. Good. Not good. Wood. I would have. {It shall have payment. On the shores of Hudson's Straits. Authority. •Hi Churchillf and in Hudson's Straits. Ascertain- ed by my- self. -t^--!;^ci Ascertain- ed by one of the most respecta- ble Traders belonging tdChurchill ChurchiU\^^^tory. * Factory. By the Natives of the Missio- nary Settle- ments. By the Ger- man Missio- nary before mentioned. Having Ill TO HUDSON S BAY. iir Having given a short account of the Esquimaux, their manners, and customs, I may now proceed with my Journal as before; and content myself with making a few cursory remarks, as we sail along. ^ August Ist. — ^The whole of this day we continued off Saddle Bach*; as the Hudson S' Bay ships had some arrangements to make, previous to their final separation, which always takes place off Mansfield Island, at the entrance of Hudsoris Bay, Towards evening, we began to ply to windward, with a fresh breeze at west. Thermometer 40'* in the shade. * *^^** August 2c?. — Beating to windward with a strong breeze, in the afternoon we hove-to off Icy Cave, about a mile to the west- v/ard of two remarkable hills, called the Virgin* s * See the Sketch of this remarkable Cape, taken on the topg. I A-' '■ 118 NARIIATIVE or A VOYAGE 1- I V \H Virgins Paps, which last lay nine leagues to the westward of Saddle Bach, On firing a gun and hoisting our colours, we were immediately visited by another party of Esquimaux : there was no difference whatever in their appearance from those we had seen before. One of our officers purchased a canoe of a native, for which he paid a kettle, a lance, a saw, and a spoon. Our curiosity was considerably excited, to observe in what manner this man would contrive to reach the shore ; and we really entertained serious apprehensions for his safety, when we perceived him stretch himself out upon his belly on another canoe, at the back of the man who used the paddle. He was in this dangerous position conveyed to land, not daring to lift his head, through fear of destroying the equilibrium of the canoe; which did not swim two inches above the surface of the sea. •^^ " After '' TO HUDSON S BAY. 119 After night-fall, we were compelled to tack ship about, to avoid a large patch of floating ice. August 3d, — We continued plying to windward all this day ; and in the evening we had reached Upper Savage Island. It lays about twenty- three leagues to the west of Saddle Back, in an opening which has never been explored. Thermometer 32" in the sun. )il'. August 4th. — ^Towards the evening of this day we had a fair wind, the ship butting her way through immense quantities of ice. Passed by a blu£f cape, called Point Looh-out, This cape is eight leagues to the west of Upper Savage Island. We saw a number of Esquimaux following us among the windings of the loose ice. These poor crea- tures laboured hard to overtake us, halloo- ing and shouting " Chymo /" but we were now • Nfcf ,■ ■i«i«M I "fcinuir 120 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE m I i IS now exceedingly anxious to get forward, and therefore could not wait for them ; at which their disappointment must have been great. ^ ■; , m. ...... 'm o* '^m ' ' ' " ' ' ' \ August 5th. — This morning forcing our way with difficulty through the ocean of ice that surrounded us; at length, being en- veloped in a thick fog, and the wind dying away, we lashed our ship to a large piece of ice ; and firing three guns as a signal for our convoy to do the same, we were astonished at the effect produced by the cannon. The explosion issued like thun- der over the ice; then appeared to roll rumbling back towards the ship; bellow- ing forth again in tremendous peals. The echo died away in distant reverberation. Shortly afterwards, we imagined that we could distinguish the sound of voices through the fog ; we immediately beat the drum. W TO HUDSON S BAY. 121 \\- drum, to point out our situation ; and, in a few minutes, we plainly heard the shouting • of the Esquimaux : they soon came along- side the ship, with the usual expressions of delight. It is really surprising that this people should. venture so far from the land, in such frail barks, through a mass of ice which is enough to daunt an European, even in a stout-built ship. 4*ia The fog clearing away, we cast the ship loose, and endeavoured to force our way forward among the ice; until, from its increasing consolidation, we were again obliged to lash to a large piece of it. This operation is called grappling; and it js per- formed by running the vessel alongside of the piece of ice to which it is intended to make her fast : two men then leap on the ice : the one runs, with a sort of pick- axe, to dig a hole in it,' using the precaution to stand with his back to the ship and the other I mi- it- *n, -, r. 122 NARRATIVB OP A VOYAGE w 'I \l other man follows the first, with a serpent- like iron on his back, having a strong rope affixed to one end of it : this serpent (or ice-anchor, as it is termed) is hooked into the hole on the ice, and the rope is fastened on board the ship. Other ice- anchors and ropes are then hooked to dif- ferent parts of the piece of ice ; and the number of ropes is varied according to the state of the weather. In a gale of wind, we had generally B.ye anchors a-heai^ ; and with a moderate breeze, not more than two. The whole manoeuvre of grappling is generally accomplished in five minutes ; and although the ship be lashed to wind- ward of a clump of ice, yet the action of the wind on a vessel's masts, yards, &c. turns the ice round, and she will consequently soon be under the lee of it, with water as smooth as a mill-pond. \s We were employed this evening in filling our I: TO HUDSON S BAY. 128 our casks from a pool of snow-water on the ice ; and our people were highly diverted with running upon it, leaping, playing at foot-ball, and shooting at seals. At length) four of the seamen were so impru- dent as to venture on a sort of peninaula which projected from the main body of the ice; when the isthmus instantly gave way, leaving them adrift on a small piece that was barely sufficient to sustain their weight. It was long after night-fall, and with the utmost exertion and difficulty, that we suc- ceeded in getting them safe on board again, by the help of a boat. rtuM VK August 6/^.— In the middle of the night, the prospect from the ship was one of the most awful and sublime that I ever remem- ber having witnessed; during a life spent entirely upon the ocean: and I regret that no language of mine can give an adequate idea of the grandeur of the scene. As i l24 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE :■ \l rW 1 ■ ? % As far as the eye could reach, a vast alabaster pavement overspread the surface of the sea, whose dark blue waters could only be seen at intervals, where parts of the pave- ment appeared to have been convulsively torn up, and heaped upon each other in ruined fragments. The snow-white surface of this immense plain formed a most strik- ing contrast to the deep black clouds of a stormy night ; through which, uninterrupted flashes of forky lightning succeeded each other with great rapidity, as if intending, by their fiery glare, to shew to us the horrors of our situation, and then to magnify them by leaving us in utter darkness. Add to this, the reiterated peals of thunder that burst forth, in a thousand roaring echoes, over the surrounding ice; also the heavy plashing of the rain, which poured down in tor- rents; the distant growling of affrighted bears, the screams of sea-birds, and the loud whistling of the wind; — the whole formjnga midnight \\ TO HUDSON S BAY. 125 midnight prospect which I would have gone any distance to see ; but having once beheld, never wish to witness again. In the morning, we were surprised by the appearance of two Esquimau^:, who had contrived to reach the ship, although we were at least seven leagues from the land, and the ice closely hemming us round on all sides: the Indians had effected their passage by dragging their canoes over the different fields of ice which obstructed their progress. At 4 a. m. we got under sail ; as there appeared a pos- sibility of our pushing through, the ice having loosened a little ; however, we looked in vain for an opening. The ship running fast, with a fair breeze, struck violently upon a large field, and the shock fairly lifted up her bows. We continued butting through until 8 A. M. when we grappled to a large field of ice, as an impenetrable mass now presented Qu'4 a* I:' ■rasa ■Vfyrrmyim \ \ 126 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE [i;;; i ^ i m i] presented itself on all sides of us : the wind shifted into theN. w. and blew a heavy gale, accompanied by drifts of snow and sleet. We lay in this position all night, closely hemmed in, with five ice-anchors a-head. An inspection being made by the car- penter, he found that the heavy shocks which the ship had received this day had started the ceiling about her bows, and also twelve or fourteen of the trunnels. ,S ■ I'i^ \-T'^''f^^'\ V"^ -.*,'■ ' August 7^Zj.— During the whole of this day, we continued closely wedged in by the ice. It blew a hard gale from the west, attended by a heavy fall of snow and sleet. The loose ice was incessantly varying its position : at one time, we were so closely hemmed in as to be hardly able to discern any water ; then, suddenly, the ice would again open to a considerable distance. This is easily accounted for ; as the light pieces of ice drift much faster before the wind than \\ TO HUDSON S BAY. vn than the heavier masses, which are deeper in the water : it will naturally occur, there- fore, that the three ships would alter their position, according to the size of the clump to which they were fastened. The Eddy- stone was three miles to the east of us last night ; and at sunset this evening, she was as far to the west; yet that ship was still grappled to the same piece of ice as before ; and, from the coagulated mass which sur- rounded us, one would have been led to conclude that the relative distance from each other could not have been so easily altered : but it varies according to the depth and solidity of the ice to which the ships are affixed. ^ ■i;,, • ' JWl.! ( \\ August 8^^. — In the forenoon, the snow ceased to fall, and we had a finer day. Lati- tude, by an observation at noon, 62°. 54'. n. The ice loosened considerably in the course of the day, but not sufficiently for us to get %*. li* \H I' ( 128 \ \ NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE get under sail. At night- fall, we lost sight of the Eddy stone, to the west. -../ -ijHiX. hlii^yH: ^'^'^■ ;>t ' 'August gth — The day had just began to dawn, when an animal was observed swim- ming near the ship : we at first conjectured it to be a seal, and accordingly sent a quar- ter-master over the ice, to knock it on the head, if it attempted to get upon it ; but the man was fain to make r ; ij id re- treat, when he discovered the form of a prodigious bear emerging from the water. This enormous creature came close to the ship's head ; and had I been armed with a pistol only, it would have been easy to have dispatched him ; but during the time we were all bustling for a musquet, the bear marched up the field of ice. Mr. Wells, a young midshipman, and myself, instantly pursued him, by different routes; but the grey of the twilight was favourable to him ; and his hide being but a shade or two deeper r ■ \ i TO HUDSON S BAY. 129 } deeper than the ice itself, he escaped un- seen. We afterwards traced his footsteps to the edge of the ice, opposite the spot where he landed, and he must therefore have replunged into the sea from that place. I mention this circumstance to shew in what manner these animals contrive to pro- cure subsistence: they swim, during the night, in the quiet manner now described ; and drawing close to a piece of ice, they immediately smell if there be any seals upon the top of it; in which case they ascend gently on the opposite side, and suddenly springing upon ihe sleeping seal, they in- stantly tear it in pieces. — As this proved tp be a fine day, we drew our seamen out upon the ice, and exercised them by firing at a target. Towards evening the ice began to loosen considerably. £;*•: ku August lo^^.— A fine day; but the ice ptillclose. Wind remains at N. w. During ; K . the I;. if ■;->.'«TM--»-^ li :l t i f I ii^ 130 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE the last twenty-four hours, the Eddt/stone again appeared in sight ; and towards even- ing, she again neared us considerahly. We believed this to be owing to her having got into a southerly current. Our latitude this day was 62°. 5o'. n.; and at night-fall the thermometer stood at 28". August 11th. — At 4 a.m. ungrappled, and got under sail, with a fair wind, run- ning a zig-zag course amongst the ice ; the ship, at intervals, striking excessively hard. Towards evening, we again grappled to a piece of ice ; and, upon inspection, we found several more trunnels started, and the ship much shaken, by her repeated blows. The Admiralty must certainly hare been deceived by the Hudson s-Bay Com- pany, respecting a Voyage to Hudson's Bay; or they certainly would never have sent a ship of war to perform it, with- out previously strengthening her for the occasion. r 111 r TO HUDSON S BAY. 131 occasion. It is exceedingly dangerous for any ship to attempt a passage through the sea of ice in Hudson s Stra'ts, unless her bows be doubled with oak* plank and heavy blocks of wood, bolted to each side of her cutwater ; as the floating masses of ice may be considered so many rochi of crystal, ; r ; This day, in a vacancy between the ice, we saw the first regular whale. On his second rising tc blow, t discharged a load of small shot into his back; at which, how- ever, he did not even seem to feel the least aihnoyance, though we saw him no more. fc»-^' , -1... August 1 2th. — At day- light, ungrappled, with a light wind at south ; but, to our great mortification, we were again obliged to anchor, at noon, to a field of ice about half a mile long ; and both the other ships made fast to the same piece, so that w« could K 2 walk I: 132 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE :^1» walk across the ice to visit each other. Our people were immediately set to work; and in three hours* time, we had filled fifty-six casks with snow-water, from a large ppnd on the ice. We had Charles* Island in sight, bearing W.N. w. about nine leagues distant. This small island is on the southern shore of the Straits, in the narrowest parti the channel there not being above twenty miles broad. Charles' Island lies about twenty- one leagues to the west of Ladi/ L'lees Inlet; and hence the ships leave the northern shore, and steer for the south end of Salisbury Island, lying ofif Cape Diggs, at the western extremity of Hudson s Straits. The ice continuing yery close all around us, we were compelled to remain in this \ situation, without ungrappling, fdr five days; in which nothing occurred worthy of hotice. I : \ -' August I i- - i I I d i TO HUDSON S BAY. 133 lifr u 'V >: i ^ k ^ August 1 7th. — In the mornings we were opposite a deep inlet, called Princeqf Wales s Sound, on the southern shore of the Straits, which has never been explored. All this coast, as well as the northern shore, is fringed with islands ; the principal of which are called King George, Prince of Wales, Maidens Paps, and ManniVs Islands ; and they doubtless afford shelter to many fine harbours. - , > . ! ; .•,i.v August iQth — We did not grapple during the night, but hove to, for about two hours, whilst it continued dark ; and at day-light we again bore up, and continued tunning through loose ice. Towards noon it fell nearly calm : we observed seven large seals, basking on a piece of ice ; but as soon Uij we approached them in a boat, they rolled into the water, and disappeared. We were visited by two Esquimaux in the after- noon : they had nothing remarkable about them. % ■ "■1 ««M .1 V'A «i,,i'. «■ l.m ! . 134 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE im. them, except that their mustachios were rather more bushy than those we had seen before. In the evening it fell quite calm, and we grappled. August 19M.— During the night, the other ships had fallen considerably to the eastward ; but the wind coming round to the south-west, we ungrappled, and waited for their coming up. Queen Anne's FbrC" land, a high cape on the north shore, bore B. N. £. nine leagues ; and although at so great distance, we were visited by three canoes of Esquimaux, bringing their usual commodities for traffic. Our latitude this day was observed to be 63". 39'. n. ; longi- tude, 72°. 45'. w. We grappled again in the evening, and lay sp until-»- AuGusT 2U/.-^At 2 A. M. was presented one of those awful appearances which are 90 common in these hyperborean regions. The TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 135 The waterj for some distance around the ship, had, for a time, been partially cleared of the ice; when, on a sudden, a noise was heard like very distant thunder, and the crackling of falling beams in some immense conflagration. The loose ice, which had appeared so distant before, now approached on all sides with an unusual rapidity ; the pieces driving one over another in their couiae, and seeming to menace the destruc- tion of our ship. In ten minutes ^^e were completely hemmed in, on all sides ; and a person might travel for miles over a space which had just before been an expanse of water. The ice must have been forced tO" gether by some extraordinary meeting of the currents, as there was but a slight breeze at the moment. ««M At noon, the wind became fair: we un- grappled, and steered through loose weighty ice until 8 p. m. when a thick fog came o», and ! ' m 136 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE I illl if and we again grappled for the night. About 10 P.M. the deep darkness of the sky was suddenly changed to a bright twilight ; and haying continued so for about five minutes, it again relapsed into its former gloom. This singular appearance was occasioned by a streamer of the aurora borealis bursting through the thick fog which surrounded us. — ^Thermometer 29°. During our stay in Hudson s Bay, and upon our voyage home from thence, our nights were constantly illuminated by the most vivid and brilliant coruscations of the aurora borealis. Its appearance was very different from that which I have seen in more southern latitudes; resembling con- tinual jets of meteoric fire from the northern part of the horizon, which, after darting upwards in long streamers towards the zenith, suddenly collapsed, and receded; falling back, in zig-zag, serpentine lines, with diminished TO HUDSON S BAY. 137 diminished splendour; and ultimately dying away, and vanishing from the sight ; being succeeded by other jets, as beautiful as the first. Tlie Cree Indians inhabiting Hudson s Bay, and indeed the European traders there, m;«intain, that, in the serene stillness of their severe winters, a soft rushing noise constantly acco'i panics these coruscations, like that which is occasioned by the quick waving of dfan, or of a winnoiv. The same remarkable circumstance is mentioned by Hearne, who bears positive testimony to the fact. ** I can positively affirm," says he*, ** that in still nights I have frequently " heard the northern lights make a rus- '' tling and crackling noise, like the waving ** of a large flag in a fresh gale of wind. " This is not peculiar to the place of which " I am now writing (the Athapusco Lake), " as I have heard the same noise very plain iw-t €€ at * Hearnea Journey to the Northern Ocean, p. 224-. Lond. 1795. iM m ii ' p^ If, 4 11 r^]: 138 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE " at Churchill River : and, in all probability, ** it is only for want of attention that it has *' not been heard in every part of the *' northern hemisphere, where these lights " have been known to shine with any con- " siderable degree of lustre.'* August 22d, — Early in the morning we again ungrappled. The reader of this Journal may easily conceive that, by this time, our impatience was at its height, as we had now been nearly a month incessantly occu- pied in endeavouring to push our ship through the never-ending drifts of ice in Hudson s Straits, I shall not, therefore, attempt to describe the joy of every person on board, when at 8 a. m. we emerged into an open sea, and, the wind blowing tolera- bly fresh, at ten we passed by Charle» Island, At noon, we had lost sight of both land and ice; and we now sailed forwards at a great rate, with both our ships in company. TO HUDSON 8 BAT. 139 company. Towards night- fall, we passed by a low level island, called Salisbury Island, which lies at the entrance of Hudson s Bay* August 23(?.— In the morning, passed to the southward of Nottingham, a long rocky island, lying north of Cape Diggs, I know not if Salisbury and Nottingham Islands are inhabited by the Esquimaux; but it is natu- ral to supposfe that this people visit them occasionally, during their periodical voyages. At 8 A.M. we were off Cape Walsingham, which is only remarkable for its being the north-west promontory of Labrador, and having a string of small islands running from it towards the sea. .lijij In the afternoon, the Eddystone parted company ; as that ship was bound for Moose Factory, at the southernmost extremity of the bay; whilst we intended to proceed with the Frince of Wales to York Factory, on the western Miiitoiii'i'i^'if' mm 111 I. .2 140 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE I ^ \ ft ■ '%' »■■(» if western side. And now, having brought the ship safely ' through these formidable Straits, and conducted her into the im- mense gulf of Hudson's Bay, we will leave her for a while to pursue her voyage, and take an excursion round the Bay, in order to give some short description of its facto- ries, inhabitants, &c. Fi Amongst the many adventurous naval enterprises which reflect such lustre upon the last years of Queen Elizabeth, and the beginning of the reign of James the First, none, perhaps, can surpass, in intrepidity and persevel'ance> the voyages of Henry Hudso?i ; undertaken for the ex- press purpose of effecting a north-west passage to the Pacific Ocean. All that I have been able to collect respecting this brave but unfortunate man is, that he sailed in the yeiar 1610, and discovered the Straits which now bear his name. He boldly pushed his way TO HUDSON S BAY. 141 way through them ; and finding that, after a length of six hundred miles, he emerged into an open sea, his heart beat high with exultation on having, as he doubtless ima- gined, succeeded in discovering that famous passage for which so many had sought in vain*. Sailing forward, therefore, four hundred miles towards the west, his disap- pointment was great, f ^ .inding himself suddenly stopped, in the midst of his careen by an unknown coast, extending (as has since been ascertained) from 5 1° to 63o n. latitude. However, the spirit of Hudson was not easily checked; and, astonishing as it may ap- pear, he determined on remaining the whole winter on this dreary coast, so that he might be able to prosecute his voyage early in the ensuing spring. After suffering in- numerable hardships, this daring adven- turer sailed, early in the next year, towards the north, in search of the much-wished-for. , . outlet ' * See the Voyages of Frobishery Davies, and others. .:.^^!'-mm^fmmmm<.''*>.-:^:^ ■"^^'i'*^ \ I' i ;-.* ■11 ^ ■■■:■ i I :■> '■ -i! 142 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE outlet to the Pacific: but his creW, not feel- ing the same enthusiasm which animated their leader, and greatly fearing lest his ardent thirst for discovery might expose them to the horrors of another winter, or, what was still worse, to the chance of perishing amidst the terrific mountains of ice with which they saw themselves to be surrounded, they accordingly proceeded from murmurs to open mutiny; and having turned the heroic ZiftM^son adrift in a small boat, together with the few who adhered to his fortune, they basely left their leader to perish, and sailed away for England, where they arrived in safety. As for the unhappy Captain, I grieve to add, that he was never afterwards heard of : neither have we the poor consolation of knowing that his murderers met with the punishment due to their inhuman crime. There can be no doubt that Httdsons Bay would have remained much longer unex- plored, had it not so happened that the winter TO HUDSON S BAY. 143 x. winter preceding the year in which the dis- covery was made must have been remark- ably mild ; consequently, Hudsmi could not have met with many obstacles in passing through the Straits; — no seaman would have endeavoured to penetrate farther, if he had found them so completely blocked up with ice as to impede a ship's progress, even with the advantage of a favourable wind attending her ; — and that this was the case with us, will appear evident, from a perusal of the preceding part of this Journal. fei kM li^he Hudson s^Bay Company's charter is said to confirm to that body the whole and sole right of trading with the Indians, within the limits of Hudson* s Straits ; and they have no less than six factories esta- blished at the mouths of as many different rivers, which empty themselves into the Bay. The northernmost of these facto- ries is called Churchill: it stands on the west ^TjiiiaE :tg^.»e*«*^^,^,^ -,„ . . ■ ^ ^^-^m I i Ml- 144 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE west side of the Bay, in latitude 58°. 50'. n.; longitude, 93". 4'. w. The port is tolerably good, and sh^ps of any size may anchor ia it. At tlj * enfrancti 13 v. danger, called Cape Mark's Roch; but it is easily to be avoided* On entering Churchill River, ships pass be- tween two points of land. One of them forms a sort of ^<;ninsula; an4 it has a large strong fort of stone upon it, the erection of vjrhich is said to have cost the Hudson* s- Bay Company 3o,ooo/. : it was formerly mounted with twenty 32-pound guns. The opposite Cape (Mary) has also a small battery, which formerly had six guns on it ; yet, with the most culpable pusillanimity, did the tra- veller Hearne (who acted as chief at that time) yield this strong position to the French Admiral La Perouse, without so much as attempting a defence; who, in the year 1782, spiked the cannon, and destroyed the factory. Since.that time, the fortifications of. Churchill have been suffered to remain in TO HUDSON S BAY. 145 in their present dilapidated state; and, as a trifling security against any sudden invasion in future, the new factory was erected at a short distance higher up the river. It is matter of surprise, that the Company do not repair the large stone fort, which is made un- commonly strong, both by nature and by art. As it stands up9n the extremity of a pen- insula, a body of men passing the isthmus to attack it by land, would be completely ex- posed to the enfilading fire of the fort. It would be difficult also for an enemy to force the gates, because there is a small half- moon battery built on that side, expressly for their defence. Besides, there are dwelling- houses in the interior of the fort, sufficiently large for the reception of the whole factory. ■«■: V ■> The shore about Churchill River is high and rocky, producing only a very few in- significant trees and shrubs. Farther north, towards the country of the Esquimaux, this iii: * . \ I ! 1!;^ '4 1^.- 146 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE small vestige of vegetation dwindled a^ay even to a simple bush or two, and these are only to be found at a considerable distance from each other. Proceeding southward, towards a more genial country, w^e arrive at York Factory, standing upon low swampy ground, completely covered with wood: its latitude is sy*". 2\ N.; longitude 92°. 40'. w. This place was also visited by the French in 1782, who burnt the factory, and destroyed a small battery at ihe entrance ot Hayes' River, But Perouse was grievously disap- pointed in the chief object of his voyage : and as it is so intimately connected with the subject on which I am writing, perhaps it will not be thought improper to describe the disappointment whicu the French suf- fered in the expedition ; particularly as the fitting-out of the squadron must have cost the French nation much money ; and their burning TO HUDSON S BAY. 147 burning a few miserable mart-houses in Hudson's Bay could only injure individuals, and most probably was not felt at all by the public. ' • ■ ' • i: ■ ■f, ,. ^ -^h\ "' Perouse entered Hudson s Bay in 1782, having under his command a line- of- battle ship and two large frigates. With this force he of course insured the capture of the annual ships, together with their rich cargo of furs, oil, &c.; and as the escape of the three ships does high honour to the skill and intrepidity of their commanders, it is well worthy of notice. The ship which was bound to Churchill, was commanded by Captain Christopher-, and the French admiral f€ll in with her at sea, just previous to her arrival at that place. A frigate was immediately dispatched in pursuit ; but the night drawing on apace. Captain ChristO" pher resolved on a bold manoeuvre, which he accordingly carried into execution with The next factory to the south of Yorh is called Severn ; but the shore at this place runs off much too shoal to allow a ship to approach the coast ; therefore a schooner of about eighty tons is employed to take the furs to Yorh, and to bring back the neces- \ ssiry supplies. This is also the case with Albany, the next factory towards the south ; except that the latter place sends its furs,* &c. to Moose, instead of York Factory, «r-: At the very bottom or southernmost part of Hudson s Bay, which is styled James s Bay, we arrive at Moose Factory ; standing, like all the rest, on a river, bearing the same name. This place has a good anchorage, and the climate is ' milder ft' ^^^utMmsmammm ' \ \\ i* I r '- If 152^'^ NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE milder than in any of the other factories. It is annually visited by a ship from Eng' land; as at Moose the furs are collected together from the lesser mart- houses of Albany, East Main, and Richmond, for the purpose of being shipped off to Europe, We must now proceed round the bottom of the Bay ; — and the next settlement is at East Main River, nearly opposite to the western shore of Labrador. The factory was esta- blished at this place for the purpose of trading with the natives of that vast peninsula ; but their internal mart-houses verge generally towards the south, and the marten skins from this factory are said to be the finest in quality of any which are received from Hudson s Bay, The inhabitants around this settlement are a roving race of people, styled, by the Eu- ropeans, Mountain Indians, to distinguish them from the Esquimaux, who inhabit the sea>coast to the northward. 4 '■\;'; />'"- <# At TO HUDSON S BAY. v: 153 At some distance to the north of East Main is a bight, called Richmond Bay: here is a house belonging to the Company, but not a permanent establishment ; as the people who arrive from East- Main Fac- tory in the spring, return again to that place in the fall of the year, to remain for the winter. The annual voyages to Richmond are undertaken for the purpose of procuring oil, as there is a good white- whale fishery in this Bay. The white whale* is not much larger than a first-rate porpoise; neither does it yield any whalebone fit for use: but the oil is nearly equal in value to that of the seal ; and it was sold in England, in the year 1813, at fifty- six pounds a ton. The fish itself is perfectly white. riilii >i^ visflit - There is also a small whale fishery at Churchill Factory, but it is not very produc- tive: perhaps it would be more advan- tageous 'J;v4viM A*- ♦ ■■? * The Beluga. fri iii^ i; ^ I' '■'*.*. , t. .,-, ,. •' t After this time, Richmond was abandoned as a permanent establishment ; and they fell into the present method of visiting this place only during the fishing season, and returning to j>ass the winter at East-Main Factory. Captain Turner, however, repre- sented to the Hudson s-Bay Company , that, in his opinion, want of perseverance was alone necessary to render Richmond a safe and permanent settlement; and that, by having people on the spot, ready to begin fishing early in the spring of the year, much greater profit would necessarily accrue to the Company. Accordingly, he received directions to take thither seven people, who £jO , were 11' rl 158 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE H \\ If ' were to remain at Richmond during the whole winter. In the spring of the suc- ceeding year, the northern or Hunting Indians y who had yisii^diRichmond in pursuit of game, came, as usual, to barter their furs at East- Main Factory; at the same time bringing the dreadful intelligence that the seven unfortunate Europeans had been murdered by the Esquimaux. The bodies of some of the settlers were afterwards found ; although it be by no means certain that they were killed by the Esquimaux : such, however, is a fair presumption, as this people had before displayed a hostile disposition in the case of the boy ; and the place was rifled of all the metal, of which the Esquimaux a:^ known to be remarkably fond : add to this, that the northern Indians had long been accustomed to trade yearly at East Main, and no instance had ever been know'n of their behaving with treachery towards the Europeans, On TO HUDSON S BAY. 159 ' ■ On the other hand, we must allow, that the Hunting Indians and the Esquimaux live in a state of constant enmity, and, conse' quently, that their evil reports of each other should be cautiously received. It is also certain, that the northern Indians are as partial to spirituous liquors as the Esqui" maux are to metals. Three bloody shirts, belonging to the murdered settlers, were found in the tent of a northern Indian, which he alleged to have taken from the bodies of the slain, after Xh^Esquimuux had quitted them. Upon the whole, it remains uncertain whether the settlers at Richmond perished by the hands of the Esquimaux, or by those of the northern Indians : for my own part, I should be inclined to the former opinion. This catastrophe has effectually put a stop to any further attempts towards establishing a permanefrt settlement at JRicA- mondBay, ' :- • 7 ^ The **seiiiitf.jt«jiM 160 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE )i,The following anecdote of Mr, Darby, the father of the celebrated Mrs, Mary Robinson, will shew that the Esquimaux are of a trea- cherous disposition, and extremely averse from any settlements being made on their coasts. ■vv ; t: 1 :•.■:■• n ^.^) Mr. Darby had long fosteied in his mind a scheme of establishing a whale fishery upon the coast of Labrador, and of civilizing the Esquimaux Indians, in order to employ them in the extensive under- taking. Hazardous and wild as this plan appeared to his wife and to his friends, Mr. Darby persevered in his resolution to prosecute it; and actually obtained the approbation and encouragement of some of the leading men at that time in power, who promoted his designs. To facilitate ftie execution of his plan, he deemed it necessary to reside at least two years in 7i, i Americt.. TO Hudson's bay. 161 America, His wife felt an invincible antipathy for the sea, and, of course, heard his determination with horror. The plead- ings of adection, of reason, and of pru- dence, were alike ineffectual, and he sailed for America, tm. . yi9riA-m '•'^■vit- The issue of this rash enterprise proved quite as unfortunate as it was predicted. Mr. Darby had embarked in it his whole fortune ; and it failed. The noble patrons of his plan deceived him in their assur- ances of marine protection, and the island of promise became a scene of desolation. J^ie Indians rose in a body, burnt his settle- ment, murdered many of Ms people, and turned the product of their toil adrift on the merciless ocean,*' — " This great mis- fortune was followed by other commer- cial losses ; and the family of this too enterprising man were, in consequence, M reduced laj^^^^**^ :7l\VIM I, tmni ...amaii'flm, 'w. i i.,.J I'?* t" ! m I 102 NAIUUTIVB or A VOYAGE reduced from a sta'tc of affluence and luxury to a very diiferent condition*. 3H0 Having now described the whole of the Factories established upon the sea-coast of Hudson s Bay, it will be necessary to say something of the interior : this is so far from being unknown, that a man may with safety travel fiom Hudson s Bay to Quebec, in Canada, by land. The Hudson s- Bay Company have many small factories, or rather mart-houses, dispersed in all direc- tions, for upwards of one thousand miles ir the interior ; to which the Indians bring furs, feathers, quills, &c. in exchange for cloths, blankets, ammunition, fowling-pieces, trin- kets, &c. The furs thus collected are sent down the rivers, in large boats, to the facto- ries on the sea-coast, whence they are shipped off for Europe, as before described. ^^ti,^^.*-,' .--^ . ■ ■ ■ ^_^^- " Incre *^ * Memoixa o{ ISlvs. Mary Rolinson, ?;, TO HUDSON S BAY 163 \ There is great jealousy existing between the Hudson' 8' Bay traders ant I the Canadian Company y styled the North- West Adven- turers, respecting the traffic in peltry with t\iQ Indians, As the mart-houses of the two parties meet inland, earl*. . ^s all the Tieans in its power to ii.aac the natives £o barter furs with themselves, in pre- ference to their opponents : nay, to such a pitch have they carried their mutual ani- mosity, that it is not long since a man in the Company's employ actually killed a Ca«ac?ia« trader, in a dispute relative to the purchase of some furs from the Indians; for which offence the culprit was tried at Montreal : and as it appeared that the Canadian had given him sufficient provocation, the jury returned a verdict of manslaughter. y? The Indians have not failed to observe this competition, so impolitic on both parts, and they profit by it accordingly. M 2 Each ) ij l^ 3*n IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) Jlli.O ^ I.I u- lii 12.2 Kf uo H2.0 1I& ? _■ li^n^iyi^ ^ 6" ^ ^ V Photographic Scoices Corporation ■'G'^ :S 23 WBT MAM STRUT WnSTIR,N.Y. MSM (716)S7a-4S03 .^^ ^ H> li;> IK 1 1 1 \ • / 1 \ 1 ' ; ■ ill I 154 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE t^i- Each factory and mart-house has itsCkief, appointed hy the 6bmpany; and' there is .also a. northern and sdutherii Superintend- ant> who i^i directed to yisit all tile places vof note within his district, at least once in the year,, The northern department com- prises CAttrcAi//, Pbr^, and jSeu^n factories^ on the coast; and the southern emhraoes Albany, Moose, East Main, and Richmond, To determine the interior limits of each, an imaginary line of demarcation is drawn east arid west from Hudson* s Bay to tlk Sttmy Mountains, ^ . . . m vVWith respect to the inhabitants of this vast desert I shall say but little, as Sir Alexander M'Kenzie has given a very full description of the various tribes by which it is peopled*. The most populous of all, perhaps, are the Cree Indians : they appear to * See the account of xExpeditions through the llorth-Wett Continent of America to the Pacific Ocean. { t TO HUDSON S BAY. 165 } to me to be the same race described by the before-mentioned author, under the name of Knistetteaux, They occupy the country from Churchill nearly as far south asi Moose, and are found scattered almost as far to the west as the Ston^ Mountains ; but their numbers have been much diminished of late^ owing to the small-pox. When this dreadful malady first reached this country, as the Indians were not aware of any remedy by which they could counteract its violence^ they \yere accustomed to leave the person afHicted in the midst of a wood, with a suf- ficient stock of food for two or three days' subsistence; and when this scanty pro- vision was expended, the unhappy victim must have necessarily perished with hunger. The banks of the rivers, for a time, exhi-? bited a most loathsome spectacle, of bodies which had thus fallen a sacrifice to .this disorder. :' Besides tisi It ' I liil I 1 n Vr f 166 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE Besides the Cree or Knisteneaux Indians, there are innumcable tribes spread over the interior of this vast country ; the principal of which are, the Copper, Dog-ribbed, and Hare-foot Indians, towards the north ; the Swees, Bongees, Slave, and Stone Indians, towards the west; likewise a variety of tribes inhabiting the southern country around Moose, such as the Mistassins, and others. The different tribes have frequently wars with each other ; and they appear to agree unanimously in one respect only, that is to say, inuniversal and eternal hatred of the Esquimaux, However, it fortunately happens, from the contrariety of their modes of life that their parties seldom come into contac with each other, and consequently the bat- tles between them are very rare. It remains now to speak of one of the most enterprising speculations, perhaps, ever undertaken f i y ' TO HUDSON S BAY. 167 i undertaken by a single person; namely, the attempt lately made by Lord Selkirk to establish a colony upon the banks of the Red River, in a situation nearly equidistant from York Factory and Lake Superior, and in the latitude of 5o® w.* -^ His Lordship holds this land by a grant of 1 2,000 square acres from the Hudson s-Bay Company, The first settlers left Sligo in the year 181 1; and arriving in Hudson* s Bay, they past the winter of that year at York Factory. In the spring of I812, they pro- ceeded to their destination, under the com- mand of a Captain M'Dotiald, formerly belonging to a veteran corps in Canada: but this gentleman seems deficient in the essential art of conciliating those who are placed undet M^ government: however^ the , ^ The infant colony is called by his Lordship, Osna Boia (two Gaelic words signifying Ossian's Town), from the resem- blance between that and the Indian name of Red River — Asnahoyne. I / 168 NARIUiTIVE OP A VOTAOB 1 !• ' •■ I it :^«:= tbe situation of the colony is undoubt^r edly good, and the soil so fertile as to produce every thing almost spontane- ously. The winters, indeed, are more severe than in places upon the same parallel of latitude in Europe, but much milder than at Moose, or any of the factories in Hudson* s Bay; and yet even at Moose they produce barley, if it be a fine year; and Orkney oats every year, by sowing them a short distance from the sea-beach. Still, it is extremely doubtful if ever his Lordship*s.;desce^d^jQ,ts will derive much benefit from their father's mighty speculations ; unless, indeed^ be could prevail upon l\is tenants to grant him a sort of tithe from their produce, in lieu of rent. With this Corn he could supply the Hudson s - Bay settlements^ which would save the Company a cp^T siderable expense, and they might repay his Lordship in the current coin of the realm. ' The TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 1&9 ) 'he t. The Prince of Wales took out many women and settlers foV the colony, as also a Mr. White, to act as surgeon. Lord SeU h%rhhaL& agreed with this gentleman, to give him a yearly stipend of loo/, together with a grant of five hundred acres of land, and a lahovurer four days in the week for its cul- tivation. 1/ It is difficult to imagine what were his Lordship*s intentions with respect to the colony at Red River, Allowing the luxuri- ance of the soil to answer his fullest expectations, by what possible means could the produce be conveyed to an adequate market, so as to repay the expenses of its carriage ? The communication between the colony and York Factory is kept up by boats, through the great Lake Winnepeg ; a little to the southward of which runs the Asnahoyne or Red River .- yet the channels of the dijOEerent rivers are so full of falls, ' ta*5- ' rapids. 4 It* 'i m 1 1 170 V < NAURATIVE OF A VOYAGE rapids, portages, and carrying-places, that the labour of conveying the boats is im- mense, and consequently quite unfit for the purposes of commerce, except it be in furs> and in such light merchandize. It was for some time believed that a large opening to the northward of Rich* mond, and near to Cape Smith, was an inlet to some large inland sea; but, in the year 1786, Mr. Diwison, an officer in one of the Company's ships, was sent in a schooner to explore the same. The following extract contains the description of his progress, as expressed by himself. ''On entering the " bight, and perceiving no land a-head, we f ^ sat down to a bottle of wine, and drank " success to the new discovery : however, ** we were soon chagrined by the appear*- ** ance of some low islands stretching across '' theopenitig; and shortly afterwards, com- 'Ving to an anchor under one of them, we " climbed / y t \ TO Hudson's bay. s? 171 *' climbed to the top of it, and, to our great w mortification, we perceived that the sup- " posed sea was nothing more than a deep *' gulf, terminated at the bottom by thick " clusters of islands, among which the sea " ran winding in romantic mazes. Here we " found the Esquimaux, who bartered away ** their dresses, &c. with great avidity, for ** any sort of metal." — Notwithstanding this clear statement, there are experienced men who still suppose that an inland sea does exist; and for these reasons:— 1st. There is a continual current setting to the east from Cape Henrietta Maria, towards the sup« posed opening; 2dly, The bay ship, in her voyage to Moose, has frequently observed a large glut of loose ice off Cape Henrietta Maria, which, before her re^ turn, has entirely disappeared; and whi- ther could it have drifted with a strong easterly current, unless some opening had admitted its escape from the bay ? — These ly ¥ i i. *f-. 172 \ \ NARAATIVB OF A V0YA6B These are the reasons for and against the existence of the supposed sea ; but it is to be regretted, that the Company do not make a decisive attempt to ascertain the fact. r It will now be necessary to return to the proceedings of the ship. « August 24th. — Course run s. w. by w. :^w. 34 miles. In the morning, past to the northward of Mansfield, a very long; low, level island, lying about seventeen leagues to the westward of Cape Diggs, Its extent from north to south is said to be full sixty miles. As it abounds with marshes and ponds of fresh water, it may be considered as the grand nursery of those innumerable flocks of wild geese and ducks which afterwards line the shores of Hudson* 8 Bay: however, it is but seldom visited; and the ships generally avoid going too near to it, in consequence of some shoals ■h { .*» TO hvdion's bay. .« 173 shoals that lay around the shore. To- wards evening, we steered away w. s.w. hy compass. c*.. •^ ♦ . wi :^SiU;>.i J— ~.\\\b'i i;.iUw>- ix ) S \ •^August 25 th, — Course run s.s.w. ' w. 101 miles. As there is generally a glut of ice floating ahout the centre of Hudson's Bay, a ship» on leaving Mansfield Island, and having a northerly wind, ought to steer for Cape Churchill, until they reach within dixty leagues of the land, when they may alter the course, and steer for York direct. It is necessary to make this angle, to avoid the body of ice in question. An- other thing worthy of remark is, that if a ship steer in for Cape Churchill until she have forty fathoms water, she may be cerram' of being in' latitude of the Cape: and when she reaches within five or six leagues of the land, she will have eighteen fathbms water. But a navigator must be cautious to make allowance for the southerly '' ^ '" current. Hiiuyw > \ 174 NARRATIVB OF A VOYAGE f V I current, which sets continually along the western coast of Hudson* 8 Bay, > August 26/A.— -C!ourse run s. w. \ s. 56 miles. The wind this day to the s. s. w. Our latitude at noon was Qo^,\V,ts, ship still standing to the westward. It has been already noticed, that the officers of the Hudson 8- Bay ships have a motive in concealing from the public the knowledge which they actually possess relative to the navigation of the Northern Seas; and I pledged myself to explain that motive at a proper opportunity. I cannot under- take this unpleasant task at a more appo- site time than the present, when it may serve to enliven the dulness of a few nau- tical remarks, which I think it necessary to insert into this part of my Journal. In the first place, it is proper to state, that this illiberal concealment has its origm ( / V ■\ I . TO HUD80N*8 BAY. 1/5 origin in the Company themselves, who (as I am told by their own officers) have issued the strictest and most peremptory commands to the people in their employ* ment, " that they take especial care to con- ceal all papers, and every other document, which may tend to throw light upon the Company's fur- trade." — It is probable that the Company had no other motive in issuing these directions, than to keep them- selves and their gains shrowded in a pro- found silence ; as it appears that, above all other things, they wish their trading con- cerns not to become a topic of general con- versation in the mother-country. Actuated by such principles, the officers of the Hud' sorCs'Bay ships conceive it to be their duty to conceal likewise all those remarks which their experience has taught them to make upon the navigation of the Northern Seas: consequently, nothing can be more in- correct than the Chart supplied by the mm^n ,^. Admiralty f fiiilHiilnMiiii II I •! 11 f M i 176 NARRATIVE OF A VOrAOK Admiralty (ov the guidance of a man-of-war in Hudson's Straits : it absolutely bears no resemblance to the channel of which it is intended to be an exact delineation. During the time we continued in HudsorCs Straits, the Rosamond was entirely piloted by a chart belonging to the chief mate of the Prince of Wales, and one of his own mak- ing ; yet he was so jealous of his perform- ance, that he was highly o^nded at our Master's having endeavoured to take a copy of it ; and from thenceforward kept his charts carefully locked up. When I ques- tioned him, with some freedom, on this mysterious conduct, the selfish motive stood at once confessed: he feared lest, &om others attaining the same knowledge as himself, they might be induced to enter into the service of the Company, and thereby possibly supplant him in his situation. And auch I found to be the motives which in^ duc^d the jmajority of these experienced '^\^ ' .k . seamca (. \ TO HUDSON S BAT. 177 seamen to keep their truly valuable in- formation concealed within their own bosoms. After the foregoing statement, it will be unnecessary to explain my reasons for inserting the very few nau- tical observations which I was enabled to collect. 'A i August 27/^. — Course run, w. s. w. J w. 87 miles. *^ We continued running all this day across the bay, with a fine leading wind. Our latitude at noon was 59». 4o', n. % August 28^^. — Course run w. s. w. 74 miles. At noon this day we sounded, and found tifii! we were in eighty fathoms waterl About sUn-set we observed a large body of ice to windward; our latitude at this time 58". 56'. N.; and longitude, by chronometer, 89". 50'. w. It is about this spot that the mm'£ jjf Hudson's- !4 *^l 'f^^^^M^^M^^^^^^^^M \ i ITS NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE Hudson 8'Bay ships generally calculate on seeing ice, allowing they meet with it at all. August 2Qth. — Course run s. by y/ir. i w. 68 miles. i I ' At 1 A. M. we sounded in sixty-seven fa«- j thorns Water. At four in the morning, the wind suddenly increased to a violent gale, which died away again at sunset. Our lati- tude at noon was 58". 6'.n.; longitude, go" w. Towards night- fall we sounded in forty- two fathoms, with a muddy bottom; and at the same time we caught an owl and a hawk, which we considered as sure signs of the vicinity of land. August 30/^.^ As we were now running ijji . to make the land, I shall insert a Table of the Soundings, taken from the depth of water, which we ^ii^ertained^l^t night at sun- set. '; -/ ^ „ I I « J >». .• '. / " * V ^ » ■ * * ^ji>/ yx *> ^*v».m^ija\i TABLE n:^m^' iU))SON S BAY. i^ 179 Table ^Soundings ascertained on the 30th of August^ while standing in for the Land to the Southward qf "^ York Factory. Hour*. Ship's Course, by Compass, Distance run since last Soundings. Depth of Water. Bottom. 4A.M. s. s. w. 20 Miles 25 Fathoms Mud 5h Qm Ditto 4> Ditto 21 Ditto Ditto 5 .30 Ditto 5 Ditto 15 Ditto Ditto 6. Ditto 5 Ditto 14 Ditto Ditto 6.30 Ditto 5 Ditto 19 Ditto Ditto &sand. 7. Note a-head, probabl 7 .30 Ditto — At seven o the land it«e y about seven S. by W. 6 Ditto clock in the i If being too 1 leagues distai 5 Ditto 12 Ditto (norning we s ow to be Feei It. 9i Ditto Saud&pebbles aw the trees n. The land Ditto 7.50 Ditto 2 Ditto 7 Ditto Ditto As we continued beating to windward, in j various soundings, all the forenoon, I shaU I not mark them down, but proceed to I p.m. when Cape Tottenham bore s. by e. fivfc 1 leagues distant. ;n 2 ^__..^.,..«J ':? il I. » |! ' I ' I i; f 180 NAHRATIVE OF A VOYAGE Table of Soundings ascertained on the 30th o/* August, while standing in for the Land to the Southward of York Factory ; — continued from the preceding page. Hours. Ship's Course, by Compass. Distance run since last Soundings. Deptli of Water. Bottom. 1 P. M. We had 13 Fathoms Rocky and gravelly, which denotes the Cape bear- ing S. by E. gh- O"** W. N. W. 4|Miles 14< Ditto Rocky. 3.— Ditto 6 Ditto 23 Ditto Ditto 5.— S. S. E. 5 Ditto 26 Ditto Brown sand. 6.— Ditta 5 Ditto 17 Ditto Mud, shells, and stones. 7.30 Southward & Westward T^Ditto 8 Ditto Mud. 9.— Ditto 7 Ditto 11 Ditto Ditto 9.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 11 Ditto Sand. 10.— Ditto ' 2 Ditto ll^Ditto Ditto 10.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Fine sand. 11.— Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Very fine sand 1 1 . 30 Ditto .2 Ditto 14 Ditto Gravelly sand, and black specks. 12.— Ditto 2 Ditto U^Ditto Very fine sand TO HUDSON S BAY. 181 Table of Soui:ding8 ascertained on the 2\st of August ^ while standing in for the Land to the Southward of York Factory. Houn. 8hlp'» Courie, by Compuis. Distance run since last Soundings- Oeptliof Water. Bottom. 12ii.30m A. M. Southward & Westward 2 Miles H Fathoms Grey sandwith black specks. 1 .— Ditto 3 Ditto 15 Ditto Ditto 1 .30 S.W.^W. 3 Ditto 15; Ditto Oozy 2.— s. w. 3 Ditto 15^ Ditto Mud 2.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 16^ Ditto Ditto 3- — Ditto 2 Ditto 14^ Ditto Oozy 3 .30 Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Brown sand, black spicks, & broken ^ih ells. 4.— Ditto 2 Ditto 7^ Ditto Sand 4.30 Standing in f OT York Flats 7i Ditto Ditto 5.— Ditto 3 Ditto 1i Ditto Hard ground. 6.— Ditto 6 Ditto 7 Ditto Ditto 7,— Ditto 6 Ditto 8^ Ditto Ditto 8.— Ditto 7 Ditto 8^ Ditto Soft groui^d. 10 i At eight in the morning, it will be ob- served, we were in 8i fathoms water, on ■I '" .Si ilSKS^SKSL'. l! '''\ "; II • i i 182 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE Yoyh Flats \ and we therefore came to an anchor, with the heacon, at the mouth of Yorh River, bearing s.w, by compass; the land being distant about ten miles, although it could barely be discerned in a blue line above the horizon. Thus, it may be ob- served, we had been sixty- three days on our voyage ; and that it may be compared with other voyages to Hudson s Bay, I have an- nexed to this Journal a Schedule* of those performed by the Company's ships since the year 1 788 ; although I have not been able to obtain the dates of their departures from the Orkneys, By the Sounding Table which I have in- serted, it is evident that the depth of water abreast of Yorh River, and. off Cape Totten' ham, to the southward, is uncommonly regular ; and it may therefore be fairly con- cluded, that, although the western coast of the * See Appendix B. TO Hudson's bay. 183 the Bay be very low land, yet there is no r great danger in making it. j It is not expected that ships during their return to Europe will ever meet with loose icef : therefore, as soon as our ship an- i chored on York Flats, we un The factory was about twenty miles distant from the anchorage of the ship, but not visible. At lo a. m. I went, therefore, from the ship, to report our arrival to the Governor. We v/ere met at some distance from the ship by a large boat from the factory. It appeared that they had f It ii Mtojushing, that, before the return of the ships, the . whole of the drift ice in the Straits disappeared. • i ^ i II ! 184 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE B had noticed the arrival of the ship ; and mis- taking her for the Prince of Wales, the boat was immediately despatched for letters, parcels, news, &c. &c. Finding their mistake*, the boat returned with us to the factory, which we reached about nine at night. On landing, we were hailed by a sentinel; and a guard of honour was drawn out to receive us, with a pair of High' land bagpipes in front. The guard was composed of the traders, boatmen, and others, belonging to the factory: and through the gloom of the night I dis- cerned the Governor and his officers, stand- ing in a group to receive us. After the necessary business of introduction was over, we walked up to a large wooden building, surrounded by a double row of wooden palisades ; and here we were regaled with venison steaks and buffalo tongue. Sept. * I should have before' mentioned, that the Prince of Wales did not arrive at York Flats until .the day after our ship. n .\., TO HUDSON S BAY. 185 •:• Skpt. 15^ — ^At 2 A. M. the tide answering for our return, we quitted the factory, and reached the vessel again about 8 a. m. ol <'■-. Whilst we were at York Fort, we re- ceived information that the factory at Churchill had been burnt to the ground, in the month of November, 1813. The mise- ries which the people of that place suffered during the remainder of the winter were very great. As there were seventy- three chests of gunpowder in the warehouse at the time the conflagration took place, their whole attention v/as occupied in removing away the powder to prevent an explosion; and by the most strenuous exer- tions they succeeded in this undertaking; but the time lost prevented their being able to save a mouthful of provisions, or a single utensil, from the flames. An old out- house that had escaped destruction, and a I . few *SJg53^Kk^ (\ » A 1 8b NAIRATIVE or A VOrAOC r '\ I n r. ' \,l few tents which they erected of rein-deer skins, served them as habitations during the remainder of the winter ; and, as if Providence had taken especial care to provide for uieir necessities, partridges abounded to a greater degree than had been known for many years before. Of course, these birds proved a seasonable supply to the sufferers ; particularly as the partridges are so very tame, that they suffer themselves to be driven into nets, by which means large quantities are taken at one time. > A family in England would be justly . esteemed objects of great pity, if they were burnt out of their home in the midst of winter, although many friendly habitations might be humanely opened for their recep^ tion. What then, comparatively speak- ing, must have been the situation of the Churchill people— driven out by the flames in TO HUDSON S BAT. 187 in the middle of a November night, on the shores of a frozen ocean, with the thermo- meter 78" below the freezing point, without any shelter save that of a decayed out-house, no bedding, no cooking utensils, no imme* diate nourishment, and no final prospect of relief, except from a reliance on the adven- titious aid of their fowling-pieces! Such a night must surely be allowed to have had its share of horrors. But heroic strength of mind is the characteristic of the European traders to Hudson's Bay; and this alone enabled the people of Churchill to escape all the evils attendant on such a calamity. Towards the evening of this day, the Prince of Wales came to an anchor near us. S'! tm Sept. 2. — In the morning we weighed anchor, and ran into the mouth of the river, otherwise called Five-fathom Hole^ It ;! f 188 KARRATIVE OF A VOYAO£ It is a very contracted anchorage, and at high water there is not more than three fathoms* water on the bar. In running in from York Flats, the large beacon must be kept bearing s. w. by w. by dompass. To moor the ship, one anchor must be laid up the stream, and another down it ; and the width of swinging room at low water does not much exceed four times a ship's length; having a dry muddy flat on the n. w. and a shoal to the s. e. The water is perfectly fresh, and fit for use, at the last quarter ebb, and first quarter of the flood-tide. As we lay at this anchorage until the 28th instant, I shall not notice each day separately, but proceed to make such re- marks as occurred during our stay; con- tenting myself with briefly stating, that tl * Frince of Wales was employed during the time in stov/ing away her cargo, &c. 5l The TO HUDSON ^ BAV. /i? 180 . The whole of the north west part of the continent of America is '^o conipietel)' inter- sected with rivers and lakes, that Mackem'*€ went the greater part of his jour '^ys by wrir<»i . York Factory is situated on th( bank or a i . ver, which has sometimes been called lork River; although it appears that tl e majority agree in giving it the name of Hayes' River: but it undergoes many appel- lations in its course from the Echemamia to the sea. I shall therefore endeavour to describe the river, by tracing a journey from York Factory to Lake JVifinepeg, a distance of about five hundred miles : but the fur- traders of Hudson' S'Bay are so well accus- tomed to the route, that two men in a slight bark canoe will undertake it without the slightest hesitation. ,, n .^^H fi On leaving Ybr^ Factory, the boats pro- ceed against the stream, without meeting any obstruction, up Hayes* River, Steel River, "^samtoi jL'!-'?--': ^., ,'.?^'y3is*g;BJU..,ai]jHgj j m '■ 190 NARRATIVE OP a VOYAGE River, and forty miles of Hill Biver ; wBen they arrive at the first carrying-place, called Rock Portage. The obstructions from hence- Torward begin \o augment; and at every portage, the boat, with her whole cargo, must be carried over land ; which is ren- dered sometimes extremely difficult, by the ground being either rough or swampy, ^f^i^^ fWIlP * After passing Rock Portage, the stream is contracted ; and there are a number of port- * aojes intervening, before the boats can arrive at a broad part of the stream, called Swampy Lake, which contains a number of small islands ; and it may be considered as a short half-way to Lake Winnepeg. Leaving Swampy Lake, the stream is again contracted into a narrow slip, culled Jack River, in which are four portages. Op crossing these, they enter a broader part, intersected by innamerable small islands. This space is styled the Knee Lake, and is sixty miles -t -.. in aw.- TO Hudson's ba:y. 1^1 in length. One of the small islands in the centre of Knee Lake contains so great a quantity of iron ore, as to cause the com- pass to spin round with uncommon velocity. At f^he upper end of the lake the stream gradually lessens into another slip, called Trout River, and here are four more port- ages: then gently extending its boundaries, the river opens on a wide expanse, called Holey Lake, from some deep holes in the bottom of it, and the great inequality of the soundings throughout. At the eastern ex- tremity of this lake stands Oxford Home, the first trading port to be met with after leaving the factory. Owing to the richness of the soil, and the geniality of the climate, this place produces a number of excellent vegetables*. 4 IS in :ij. Proceeding onwards, the boats leave the m^*: mam r ^ As it may be amusbg to tai^ . ► I *, t ;;*■■; I u 192 NARBATIVlE OP A VOYAGE •. i ■ I main body of Holey Lake to the left hand : the stream then suddenly narrows ; and after passing four more carrying-places, the last of which is called Hiirs Portage, there is a clear space, until a sudden serpentine bend in the river forms the White-fall, The cur- rent now begins to be very weak ; and a little farther on, they enter a narrow part with still water. This spot is the highest part of the land between Lake Winnep^g and Hudson s Bay ; and Hayes River may, perhaps, be said to take its rise about seven miles to the southward of it, in a small lake called JVinnepegosis, The boats now meet with a singular rock, which, from some curious Indian paintings once found there, has since been called the Painted Stone, Over this rock the boat must be dragged, and agairi launched on the opposite side, into a long, narrow, boggy slip of water, called the Echemamis, After emerging from this strait, the current of the river begins to Jt\ -"■ Sv to Hudson's bay. 193 operate in favour of the boats; and this proves that the Echemamis is a small river, taking its rise in the morasses about the Painted Stone, and having no connection w^ith the river which leads from the Painted Stone towards the sea. The Echemamis is, however, lost at a short distance from its source ; as after the boats pass Hairy Lake, the stream falls into the Sea River; and there is a portage at their junction, called the Sea River carrying-place. The Sea River is a branch of the great Nelson River, separated from the main stream at the Play-green Lake, and rejoining it by a creek that opens near Hairy Lake, i ' . - The boats go against the current up the Sea River: and passing the little Cross Lake and Pike River, they reach Winnepeg, through the Play-green Lake, This last is a wide body of water, covered with islands; o and Hi . 1 194 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE % and may properly be said to be merely a part of Nelson River, which holds its course from the Stony Mountains to Hudson's Bay. The rough course from York Factory to Lake Winnepeg is about south-west ; but the Nelson River makes a great angle between Winnepeg and the sea ; as it first runs off N. N. E. ; and then takes its course, due E. N. E. to Hudson 8 Bay, where it empties itself by the side of Hayes River*. The labour of getting the boats up these rivers is amazingly great: their crews en- camp on the banks every night ; and they generally land also to cpok their meals^ except when they are compelled to subsist on pemmicaji, a sort of dried, husky com- pound, composed of pounded venison and deer's * Instead of tracing the Nelson River from its source to the sea, it will be expedient to annex a map of the river from Lake Winnepeg to the Gull Lake, shewing also the portages, &c.; and this part of the river may be taken as a sample of the whole. TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 195 deer's fat mixed together. This species of food is extremely nutritious: it requires no cooking, and is sometimes rendered more palatable by the addition of berries. There are many kinds of wood grow- ing on the banks of the rivers, and indeed the whole of the interior near the sea is covered with it: but in the country about Lake Winnepeg there are very few trees, and the inhabitants are therefore compelled to use the dung of the buffalo for fuel. Both buffaloes and horses abound in the open country. The woods on the coast are principally composed of dwarf poplars, larches, and all the varieties of the pine species. . -, Having thus described the communica- tion by water between Lake Winnepeg and York Factory, I shall conclude with a state- ment of the respective distances. o 2 Distance '^^^^am/!i!aM&:nL!ut^ fr,.. 196 I I, NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE Distance from York Factory to the top of Hayes River - ------- Thence to the upper end of Steel River - - To Rock Portage - W To Swampy Lake - Length of Ditto - - - - «- Length of Jack River - - Knee Lake - - Trout River - - i;*5» ^iir -in'^^ :h^. Holey Lake - - To White-fall . - - Painted Stone Along the Echemamis to Hairy Lake - - Length of Ditto - - - - Play-green Lake UHm 50 35 35 35 9 9 60 12 30 45 15 35 4 35 It must be allowed, that the above is a mere rough statement of an old trader, who had been accustomed to traversing the route for nearly twenty years. Nehon River is a much more noble stream than Hayes* River, with respect to its navigation, extending about twenty miles froiii the sea; but from thenceforward it ^'•^' ' s: ^ becomes TO HUDSON S BAY. 19; becomes so full of obstructions, from port- ages, falls, and rapids, that the Company have been compelled to establish their fac- tory upon, and give a decided preference to, Hayes River, although they have an esta- blishment or two for trade on the former. The Nelson River takes its rise, according to M'Kenzie, in the Stony Mountains; and empties itself into Hudson s Bay, at the same place as Hayes* River. It is only divided from the latter, at the mouth, bv a very low cape, called thePoint of Marsh, upon which an exceeding high wooden beacon has been erected by the Company, to enable their ships to distinguish the mouth of the river. The continual washing of the waters on either side of the Point of Marsh has enabled the sea to encroach a great deal on the land, and thereby created many dan- "gerous shoals in the mouths of the rivers : the navigation has, by these means, been rendered extremely contracted and ^difficult. iiU . , . The -^^imifiiii inassc:: -.}:SxIl I 'I * Ids NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE 'M The breaking up of the rivers in the spring tends also, in a great measure, to in- crease these evils: for, in the first place, the ice being driven towards the sea with an amazing velocity, it carries every thing forcibly away, and causes a general ruin upon the banks, by cutting down large bodies of earth, and hurling trees and rocks £ om their places. In the second place, it frequently happens that immense stones lying at the bottom of the rivers become fixed into the ice during the winter, and the freshes, in the spring, consequently bear them away towards the sea ; but the ice not being able to sustain their ponderous weight for any length of time, it naturally occurs, that those masses become disengaged, and are deposited at the mouths of the rivers, where they not only incommode the passages, but likewise injure the ships* cables by their friction. « On Iff TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 199 On the second day after our coming, an Indian Chief arrived at the factory from Lake fVinnepeg, and some of our officers brought him on board. He staid with us two days ; and as he was the Chief of one of those tribes who still maintain a great part of their primeval manners, untainted by European civilization, a full descrip- tion of him may not be thought unenter- taining. t^-r- .^-.w^^.if--... v., .4,^., This man had been brought from Lord Selkirk's colony, at Red River, to York Fac- tory, by Captain McDonald, the chief of the colony. As far as I could collect, his tribe are properly called the Sotees, or people who go up and down the falls of rivers. But they have been styled Bongees by the British, from their being addicted to men- dicity ; and as they are always crying out **Bongee!'* which, in their tongue, signifies " a little," perhaps, too, the colonists may have Kff'-j ■;, :".'»iS2iaKk'«WM!i.^to», \ ( 200 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE i \ •• \ have thought the appellation peculiarly adapted to the Sotces, as they are but a weak tribe in point of numbers. .;4a < ' . . I // . . . . il The Chief in question was about five feet eight inches high, and, to all appearance, about thirty years of age. It seems that he had some claims to the territory on which Lord Selkirk's colony now stands ; but he had sold his birth-right ** for a mess of pot- tage.'* Therefore, to keep him in good humour with the infant establishment, he had been brought down on a \isit to York Factory, where it was intended that he should receive an accumulation of honours. A coat of coarse blue cloth, tawdrily orna- mented with tarnished lace, and adorned with shoulder-knots ; a round hat, with a red ostrich feather in front ; a very coarse white shirt, with frill and ruffles ; a pair of red stockings, yellow garters, and black shoes, were presented to him immediately upon "k TO HUDSON*S BAY. 201 Upon his arrival. If we add to all this finery, his native ornaments, such as a neck-band of wampum or bead-work*, a long string of beads suspended by his hair from each temple, and a number of large metal links of the coarsest workmanship, dangling from either ear, his appearance will naturally be imagined to have bordered upon the gro- tesque. His thighs were entirely naked, as he could not be prevailed upon to fetter them with breeches; and the cartilage of his nose had been perforated. He appeared a very intelligent man, and was highly delighted with every thing he saw on board the ship. He was not par- ' ticularly pleased with any of our musical in- }■ struments, except the drum. A sky-rocket struck him quite dumb with astonishment ; and he afterwards observed to a person who understood his language, ** That the Water- Governors * The baJge of his dignity among the Indians, ill 202 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE ii Governors * must be very powerful, who could thus force the stars to fall from the sky.*' Like most Indians, he was a great egotist, and the general tenor of his conver- sation ran upon his dignity. He observed that he was a Governor, like ourselves ; and when the snow became deep on the ground, his tribe were going out, under his com- mand, to make war upon the Stvee Tribe; and that after quitting his own territory, he expected to meet his enemy in eight days. He exulted that he had already killed two of the Swe3 nation with his own hand; and he gave us to understand, that his own tribe always made war on horseback. We presented him with a cutlass, at which he was delighted, waving it above his head, and boasting what wonders he should be able to perform by its assistance. Upon the whole, he was rather a swaggerer; but, perhaps, * The title by which he distinguished the ofRcers of the ship frgm the gentlemen of the factory. T^ Hudson's bay. 203 perhaps, this was a little excusable; because, according to the character given of him by those Europeans who had heard of his fame, he had acquired an amazing influence amongst many savage tribes, by his courage and wisdom. Indeed, his remaining two days with iis, perfectly easy and contented, is a proof that he possessed a good share of the former quality ; particularly as we were all utter strangers to him, and he had nei- ther seen the sea nor a ship before in his life : nor did he appear to be at all deficient in the more tender susceptibilities of nature. He had two wives, four sons, and six daughters; and when I presented him with a few spangles and beads, he gave me to understand, that those trifles would be received with great pleasure by his children, on his return to his native country. It surprised us much to observe with what a degree of exactness he copied all our methods of eating, drinking, &c. As we desired I f V 1 ^ if I ■: r' 204 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE desired to hear him sing, we took advantkge of his imitative powers to make him com- prehend our wishes : accordingly, the person who sat next to him began first, and the song went regularly round the table, until it reached the jBowg^ee Chief; when, instantly taking the hint, he rose up, and prefaced bis ditty with a long speech, which we of course did not comprehend; but, by his gestures, we could perceive that it was evidently intended as an explanation of the subject on which he was about to sing. Then he suddenly struck off into an air that gave us a much higher opinion of the istrength than the harmony of his voice. The subject, we could perceive, was an appeal to the Deity (Manito), to protect the ship from all dangers, in her voyage across the waters. We had many other songs from him during the evening: and on a special application, we were favoured with a specimen of the war-whoop; a most discordant TO HUDSON S BAY. 205 discordant howl, produced by striking the hand quick against the mouth > and shout- ing at the same time. But the most farcical scene of all was the business of getting him into a bed. The purser of the ship under- took the difficult task of chambermaid ; but our Indian Chief disencumbered himself of all his finery in a twinkling; and having reduced himself to a state of nature, he rolled head foremost into the bed, placing his feet upon the pillow: this produced great vexation in the mind of his Abigail, who the nex^ night succeeded, with much diffi- culty, in causing his Indian Highness to lie down like a Christian, On the evening of the second day, our Indian friend left us, to return back to his native country. He seemed to feel great regret at parting with the Water-Gover- nors ; and he gave us all to understand, that if we should hereafter visit his territories, he 206 NARRiiTIVE OF A VOYAGE i' V^iK. !l f: he would insure us a hearty welcome, and a handsome bed-fellow to boot. ^^^ Captain Stopford having expressed a wish to observe the manner of killing the rein- deer, as practised by the IndianSf and a party being accordingly made to ascend the river, we left the factory early in the morning, with a small boat of Captain Stopford' s, and a birch-bark canoe to carry the provisions, tents, &c. We continued to push along shore, against the stream, until ioa.m. when we rested at a small creek, called Dram-gat, to breakfast. Dram-gat is about seven miles from the factory : it abounds with wild-duck; and receives its name from an old custom of giving the people in the traders* boats a dram at this spot, previ- ously to proceeding farther on their journey up the river. The tide of the sea ceases to affect the current of the river entirely at the Dram-gat, We 'if* .1. ■ TO Hudson's bay. 207 and wish rein- nd a [i the ning, J, and nons, along A.M. :alled about Dunds from n the previ- urney ses to at the We . /We landed upon the bank, kindled a fire, and roasted some venison-steaks after the Indian manner, called by them ponask. Having cut a long skewer of wood, they scrape off the bark, and stick the meat upon its point. The other end of the skewer is then forced into the ground, close to the fire; and by turning it round occasionally, the food is soon sufficiently cooked. I never tasted any thing more savoury than a venison-steak prepared in this manner. After making a hearty meal, we embarked again; and two men taking out a line to the beach, we were thus laboriously dragged along shore. There are many islands and shoals on the south side of the river; whilst the northern shore is, generally speaking, steep. The mouth of Hayes' River is gra- dually verging towards the north, in con- sequence of the perceptible encroach- ments of the water upon the north bank, and the evident emerging of islands * and ''^^lAb^S ■Ml 208 NARBATIVE OP A VOYAGE I and shoals towards the south side of the river. ii.''J^ii v.. As we proceeded up the stream, we met several canoes of Indians , deeply laden with venison for the factory. After re- ceiving from us a small present of tobacco, they continued their course. X ^ At 3 P. M. we had reached a large circular island on the south side of the river, called Rainbow Island. The view from this spot was delightfully picturesque. The northern shore was bounded with high clay banks, covered with dark forests of the spruce- pine tree. Above us, upon the southern banks, five or six remarkable mounds of earth rose majestically from the river. At the termination of a long view upwards, the stream was lost in a sudden bend to the northward; and the vista in that directionr was bounded by a noble grove of poplars, ^ ' - . that t6 HUbSON*S BAY. tJ09 the met laden r re- acco, rcular called 3 spot rthern )ankS| )ruce- ithern ids of •. At is, the o the lectioii' plars, that that stood on the declivity of the green slophig bank ; and their brfght yellow colour formed a fine contrast with the sable hue of a frowning forest in the back ground. Directly opposite to the place where we stood, several Indian canoes lay scattered about the shore; and the natives sat regaling themselves, around a blazing fire upon the beach. The river, glittering with the golden tints of the sun, ran smoothly beneath our feet; and a little farther down, foamed, In distant murmurs, over a shoal-bed of peb- bles. Whilst we stood contemplating the varied objects in this interesting scene, a flock of wild geese flew screaming past ; and a gentleman, who knew the country well, immediately observed, that we should have an ** early fall T thereby intimating that the winter would soon make its ap- pearance. Our admiration of the fine view before us instantly gave way to other sensations; and we could not avoid wishing p ourselves i ■! 210 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE ourselves speedily out of a country where the transition is so instantaneous,, &om the most oppressive heat to intense opld ; where the ground is bound up in frost eight months of the year ; and the. miefJtMe inhabitants are tormented to madness by heat and mosquitoes during the remaining four. Upon leaving Rainbow Island, we ap«- proached the spiral mounds of earth before mentioned. Their formation was SQ re- gular, that an enthusiastic antiquary might easily have believed them to be > anti^nt Indian Tumuli; but upon a close inspec- tion, we plainly perceived that they had been separated from the body of th^ bank by the ices in the spring; and they had. pro- bably assumed a circular form owing to the washing of the great floods which fc4l9w the breaking up of the rivers, an4 meltiipg of thesnows^ at that season of the year# About try where :nse cpld; p in f^ost i. mifi^^rable iadnesQi by remaining )i. I, we ap*- irth before as SQ re- lary might >e antifnt se inspec- they had 1^ bank by had, pro- ing to the ch fpllQw idmel^ipg e year. About TO HUDSON S BAY. 211 V. ? i t About 5 P.M. we reached a place called Poptat-fall ; and o^.irving an Indian wig- wam on the north bank, we crossed the river, and encamped within pistol-shot of it. We had pitched our tent within the wood; and from it we could discern the river, at iilterv'als, through the openings of the trees. I Although we were but a short distance from the Indian wigwam, yet the wood was so iiitricate, that we found it difficult to find diir way thither. We, however, paid the natives a visit, and sat fami- liarly down in the wigwam. It contained one old and two young men, one old and orief young woman, and five or six children of both sexes, besides two infants. The wigwam was a circular tent, constructed with three or four poles, lashed together at the top, and covered over with an inferior kind of leather, made of tanned deer- skins. In the midst of the tent was a blazing fire ; and in the smoke above, a quantity of deer's p 2 flesh i^JJfeimai^': 212 NARRATIVB OF A VOYAGE ■ 1 t ■ f '-'K 4 'v I!' flesh was suspended, after the manner of bacon in England, On the outsiue of the hut, there were several stages, on which their strips of venison were exposed in the sun to dry, for the winter's consumption. After sitting a short time with the natives, and inquiring at what part of the river the rein-deer were crossing, we were at length about to depart, when the old Indian pre- sented Captain Stopford with eight deers* legs, which, when roasted, are considered a great delicacy, on account of the. rich marrow they contain. The young woman then gave another of our party a deer*s heart and tongue ; and the old squaw, whose aspect was sufficient to give any man a dis- relish to the whole sex, kindly tossed into my lap a head and a brisket. Laden with these presents, we returned to our tents, and dined heartily off a tongue and heart, po- noshed. But our kind /nc^tait neighbours had not been so exceedingly munificent without :i;yj_. TO HUDSON S BAY. 213 iner of of the which i in the nption. natives, iver the length %n pre- t deers* isidered ;he.rich woman I deer's , whose n a dis-, into my :h these ts, and art, pO' rhbours nificent; without without entertaining strong expectations ot an adequate remuneration : accordingly, the visit was soon returned by the whole horde ; and the old Indian brought a kettle in his hand, which was intended as a gentle hint that he wished for a liquid equivalent. We therefore gave him about a quart of rum, mixed with three quarts of water, and k trifling supply of tobacco. Extraordinary as it '^ay appear, this small donation was amply sufficient to intoxicate every member of the wigwam; and their voices resounded^ in song, through the woods, for many hours after we had retired to rest. Very shortly after the first dawn of day, we were awakened by the old Indian : he came to inform us, that several herd of deer had already crossed the river, and that it was high time we should repair to our stations, to intercept any more which might attempt to follow ; as it is an ascertained fact, that these ) I ( V 214 NAIUIATIVE OF A VOVAGK these animals, during their periodical jour- neys, are accustomed to follow each other's footsteps. According to the old Indians advice, we proceeded about two miles farther up the river, until we reached a place called fkuenty-mile Island; so named from its distance from York Factory. Still pursuing the directions of the friendly Indian, we hauled our canoe close to the beach, on the north side of the river ; as, at this season of the year* the rein-deer, in pursuance of their northern journey, cross a)! the riven from the southward. The Indian pro* ceecjed with his canoe higher up the streapi, and took his post opposite to the spot from whence he had seen the before-men-v If tioned herds crossing in the morning: he the^ concealed himself in the high grass, by the side of his canoe j an(^ we also followed his example. After lying thus TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 215 thus in ambush for a short time, a small herd, consisting of five deer and a fawn, appeared on the south bank of the river, exactly opposite the old Indiana canoe. The timid and w^ary animals stood for some time on the bank of the river, casting an inquisitive glance across the water. We all crouched closer than before, in the grass; and we had soon the satisfaction to siee the whole herd leap boldly from the shore. The Indian above us immediately pushed across the stream with his canoe, to inter- cept the retreat of the deer; and this he yras enabled to do unobserved, as he was also a consid*!ts!sirimim<^m^.mU,J:^'.--'<-m!.' 4 ; I i: Is i i !i! 220 NABRATIVE OF A VOYAGE To conclude my account of the rein-deer of Hudson* s Bay, I must observe, that they are ev^ -Gently the same species with those of Lapland ; although the Indians have never attempted to render them in any way useful for domestic purposes: but Lord Selkirk, with his usual perseverance, has procured people from Sweden to train the rein-deer in Hudson s Bay ; although they have not yet been a sufficient time in the country to ascertain the practicability of such a scheme*. If * Whilst thaa Journal was preparing for the press, the fol- lowing article appeared in many of the Daily Prints. ^* Intelligence has been received, by a late arrival from '• " Canada, of the entire dispersion of tlie Colony founded by . " Lord Selkirk, in conjunction with the Hudson's- Bay Com- « pony, on the River Asnal'iyne, in the interior of the m. w. *< Continent of America. Disputes with the Met\ffs of the " Country, a race of people between Canadians and Indians^ " inflamed the natural jealousy which the latter have always ** felt, relative to the agricultural encroachments on their « hunting-grounds in the interior, and, we understand, com- ** pelled his Lordship's Governor to abandon the establiah- " ment which had been madf;." — " About one hundred and " forty settlers were conveyed by the Canadian traders to " Lake TO HUDSON S BAT. 221 r If the Indiana be so fortunate, during their hunting journeys, as to kill a rein-deer in the woods, they eat of it until they lite- rally cannot cram another mouthful. When their meal is finished, they erect a high stage, on which they lay the remainder of the carcase, so as to secure it from the wild beasts; and then cover it with branches of trees, to defend it against the birds of prey. All this trouble is taken, that the food which they are compelled by necessity to leave « Lake iSifperior, on their way to Canada} and the renuunder " are supposed to have gone to Hudson's Batft with a view of '< finding a passage to Great Britain. ** The Governor, Mr. M'Donaldt and a Sheriff, also ap- " pointed by Lord Selkirk (Mr. Spencer)^ were brought down *< prisoners to Montreal ; the one for having granted, " the other for having executed, a warrant, under the " authority of which, provisions, the pronerty of Canadian " traders, were seized during the preceding winter, for the " mainteiiance of the colonists ; and these gentlemen were " admitted to bsul in the Courts of Lower Canada, to take *< their trials for this alleged offence." Whatever may be the decision of the Judges on this trial, the Met\ffs will have succeeded in their malevolent intention, that of destroying all prospect of the Colony ever arriving to a flourishing condition. ■ffiBB »a£ia*vi««iiiit'aLi.si,;,.M 1. !!l*^f If !^S ;'i 1'! P 1 1' h Ife j m in 1 r if : J i !r 'r ■ r if ^■i- ■ 1 '■■''■■ t 1 i 1' •i: ' ■ 1 ■ 1' i 4 i 1 1 -r 222 NARHATIVE OF A VOYAGE leave behind them may be of service to some wandering tribe of hunters like them- selves, who may not have been so fortu- nate as t have met with any deer in their journey. f> When, therefore, in traversing the im- mense plains or forests of the interior, a half-famish jd Indian descries at a distance one of those charitable stages erected on high for his relief, he hails the cheering sight with the same feelings of delight that is experienced by a tempest- tost and ' '*- wildered sailor, when he descries, through the dark clouds of a stormy night, the cheering fire-beacon which denotes the situation of a sheltering port. Whenever ZM Indian has satisfied his hunger at one of the stages in question, he marks the sup- porting poles with the character peculiar to his tribe; so that those to whom he is in- debted for relief may perceive, on their return. TO HUDSONS BAY. 223 return, whether their friends have benefitted by their humane intentions. And it is a singular point of honour amongst them, that if, by the characters before men- tioned, they should discover that the stage had been erected by an hostile tribe, they will rather suffer the severest pangs of hunger than be obliged to their enemy for relief. Upon our return to the factory from the deer-hunt, we found much anxiety prevail- ing respecting the safety of a small schooner* which had sailed hence, on our arrival, to bring the furs from Churchill E'ver, and had not yet returned. There was the more foundation for such apprehensions, as it blew a he?!vy gale on the day after her depar- ture, and she must consequently have been overtaken by it before she could have pos- sibly reached her destined port. However, it was determined to wait her return until the :...'*'^'%r::S~::A^*:tml*if. "^ ta^-'i'i^ikc^^i'tiiu. 224 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE hi i I l:i ¥ i Vii] nil yr.ii! the 28th of September, when prudence dic- tated our departure, to avoid the risk of a detention for the whole winter. In the mean time, we occupied our time in pro- curing a stock of fresh provisions against the day of sailing. Accordingly, a party of Indians were despatched in pursuit of game; and in a few days they returned with eleven hundred wild geese, which they had shot in the marshes to the southward of York; and several other parties of the na- tives poured in a copious supply of venison and wild duck. Nor were we idle ourselves, as we con- stantly drew the seine in the mouth of the river; but the supplies of fish thus obtained were exceedingly trifling. Of those we caught, the principal part consisted of mullet, and tiitameg, a small delicate fish peculiar to the rivers of Hudson's Bay. Before to Hudson's baV* ' 225 Before I quit entirely this almost un- known country, I shall insert an extract from an author whose observations will serve materially to illustrate my own*, t *' The animals of Itudson*s Bay are, the! moose-deer, stags, rein-deer, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, lynxes, martens, squirrels, ermines, wild-cats, and hares; of the feathered kind, geese, bustards, ducks, partridges, and all manner of wild fowl: of fish, whales, morses, seals, cod, sea-horses, and sea-unicorns * and in the rivers and fresh waters, pike, perch, carp, and trout. There have been taken in on6 season, at Nelson River* , go ,000 partridges, as large as hens ; and 2 5,000 hares. Every thing changes white in winter; even European animals after being a short time in the country. " The r • See PinkertorCs Geography* ^ 220 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE In h > III " The inhabitants shew great ingenuity in kindling a fire, in clothing themselves, and in preserving their eyes : in other respects, they are very savage*. In their shapes and faces they do not resemble the Indians, who live to the south : they are more like the Laplanders and Samoeids of Europe, from whom they are probably descended. Those on the sea-coast are dexterous in managing their kiacks or boats f. The other Americans seem to be of a Tartar original. " In 1670, a Charter was granted to a Company, which does not consist of more than nine or ten persons, for the exclusive trade i *■ Here Mr. Pinkerton» although perfeot^f correct in wwy other rqspect, has fallen into the same error as other geogra- phers ; namely, in peopling HudsmCs Bay with Esquimaux : whereas, the Cree Indians, who inhabit ths Bay, ore not savage, take no care of theii eyes, and are clothed by the European traders. f Here he plainly alludes t^ the Esquimaux of Hudson's S treats i not to the Cree IndioMs of the Bay. :/ TO Hudson's bay. a ^^ . 227 trade to this Bay; and they have acted under it ever since, with great benefit to themselves. The fur and peltry trade might be carried on to a much greater extent, were it not entirely in the hands of this exclusive Company; whose inter- ested, not to say inquisitive spirit, has been the subject of long and just com- plaint. The Company employ four ships, and 130 seamen^. b'' - ■ . : •* The French destroyed the forts in 1782, valued at 500,ooo/. The Company export commodities to the amount of i6,ooo/. and bring home returns to the value of 3Q,340/. which yield to the revenue 3,734/. This includes the fishing in Hudson 8 Bay. )f Hudson's " This commerce^ small as it is, affords great profits to the Company, and is A.u./6^>ii ^ ' advan-- f At piesent thejr employ but two ships, and consequently considerably fewer seamen. Q2 -*«*'i •'_ ; 'A'H.^iir.i..'jSm!iMmmuimmmi& 228 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE ill! If I • i : •\i "% advantageous to Great Britain in general} < for the commodities we exchange with the Indians, for their skins and furs, are all manufactured in Great Britain ; and as the Indians are not very nice in their choice, those things are sent of which we have the greatest plenty, and which, in the mercantile phrase, are drugs with us. Though the workmanship, too, happens to be, in many respects, so de- ficient, that no civilized people would take it off our hands, it may nevertheless be admired by the Indians. On the other band, the skins and furs we bring from Hudson s Bay enter largely into our ma- nufactures, and afibrd us materials for a lucrative trade with many nations of Europe, These circumstances tend to prove incontestably the immense benefit that would redound to Great Britain by throwing open the trade to Hudson^s Bqif; since, even in its present restrained state. TO HUDSON S BAY. 229 eral ; with , arc and their 3h we :h, in with y. too, SO de- would theless 5 other ET from r ma- for a ons of ;nd to benefit tain by ludsons trained state. state, it is so advantageous. The exclu- sive Company, it is probable, do not find commerce so advantageous now as it was before we got possession of Canada, The only attempt made to trade with Labrador has been directed towards the fishery. *' From the journeys of M^Kenzie and Hearne, a complete confirmation has arisen, that there can be no north'^rn communication between the Atlantic \nd Pacific Oceans, except at so high a lati- tude that it must be impeded by perpe- tual ice. IS ** The mouth of the Copper-mine River, as ascertained by Mr. Hearne, iir i in lati- tude 72° N.; longitude, iig^w. of Green- wich** Since the British have had possession of Canada, a strong competition has arisen between n. Rt ' 5 !. V > 2ao NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE between the people of that country and the Hudson* S' Bat/ traders. It is therefore doubtful whether the opening of a free trade into Hudsoiis Bay would be produc- tive of those very advantageous results which Mr. Pm.^rton has supposed: the indefatigable Canadians have contrived to carry their mercantile expeditions into almost every part of the n. w. conti- nent of America; and it can be of little political consequence to the mother coun- try, whether the peltry trade is made to pass through Canada or Hudson s Bay; except, indeed, that the opening of a free intercourse with the Bay might operate as a stimulus upon the Esquimaux, to ani- mate their exertions in the seal and whale fisheries ; as they would be then certain of finding an adequate market for their oil, wbelebone, and seal-skins. That nothing seirves ao efiectually to deaden ■•^ TO HUDSON S BAT. 231 deaden the spirit of mercantile application as an unjust monopoly, is evident, from an old record of th.e year 1 742 ; which runs thus : — *' When the Indians came to the factory ** in June 1 742, they could get but a pound *' of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a " pound of shot for one beaver, an ell of *' coarse cloih for fifteen, a blanket for ** twelve, two fish-hooks or three flints for " one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a pistol ** for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, ** an axe for four, a hedging-bill for one, a ** gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt " for seven; all which was sold at th* *' monstrous profit of 2000 per cent. Not- *' withstanding which discouragement, the ** Indians brought down to Port Nekon *' that season £0,000 beaver skins, and 9000 *' martens ; these beaver skins being worth five Of six sbillini^s a pound; whereas *' those ti 2.32 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE i ■•. >j I fl- mi > I? 1 f, t '* those which the English purchase at New ** York are not worth more than three shil^t ** lings and sixpence a pound. " Besides these skins, the Indians, during ** the same year (i 742), brought to the fac-|^ ** tory, at Churchili, 20,ooo beaver skins." i^ If the Indians were industrious at a season when their labour was so mise-* rably repaid, they would consequently be- come, at this moment, much more dili-^ gent ; because, owing tc the competition before noticed, they are certain of meeting with something like an adequate return for their commodities. f To this increased activity of the natives is probably owing the late very visible dimi- nution in the staple article of their com-' merce, the beaver skins; as it is evident that those animals ^re becoming much more ^tr scarce. TO HUDSON S BAY. V 233 > scarce, in consequence of the perseverance with which their haunts are sought out and invaded. ; The 28th of September having at length arrived, and the mercury in Fahrenheit* s thermometer having sunk' to 20°, we gave up all hopes of the schooner returning from Churchill; and came to the melancholy con- clusion, that she must have perished on her voyage. We therefore weighed anchor from Yorl£ River, and steered our course towards the north, with an intention of touching, if possible, at the former place, to seek information of the schooner, and to get the furs from that factory ; but a brisk gale springing up from the n. w. which was immediately against us, we gave up our design of visiting Churchill, and bore away for Hudson s Straits, From hence- forward we had one continued gale in our favour, until we reached the Orhneys, after an II 234 NARRATIVE Of A VOYAGE 1 11 i^- I' ' an unparalleled quick voyage of nineteen days. In passing through Hudson's Straits, we could perceive none of the drift-ice or Esquimaux, which were so plentiful in our voyage outwards : the former had been carried away to the ocean^ by the preva- lence oi the southerly currents ; and the iatter had most probably retired to their winter habitations. 'i« Wc saw, however, many icebergs of ^enormous magnitude in the 5/nM^*; but, after leaving Cape Resolution, we reached ' the Orhneys without noticing any more of those dangerous islands *. ' We remained at the Orkneys nineteen days before the other Hudson's- Bay ship arrived from thence; but she had expe- rienced ?■& '• ■ m ■, * For the amusement of persons t^ho are ctesfrons of such information, I hav« annexed an abstract of the ship's reckoiv- ing from Cape Resolution to the Orkneys. See Appendix D TO HUDSON S BAT. y. 235 rienced much bad weather, and made a much longer passage than ourselres. A few straggling remarks, made during our stay at the OrhneySt will conclude this Journal. Entering Stromness Harbour, by the Ho^ Passage, the view on either hand is extremely awful and sublime. Hoi/ Head is a tremendous height; and it appears doubly so from a ship sailing near to it, as the western side of this craggy mountain is nearly perpendicular; so much so, in- deed, that it obtained the appellation of Hoy Walls, At a particular part of this awful cliff, an immense rent has torn a large fragment from the wall; and this huge disjointed mass is now washed, on all sides, by the most terrific breakers. It stands however erect, repelling all their , shocks ; i'i >i>- '"JS isM-iitmatxn^m.:' ll ¥ : ii ! i ■'iii 1 ^ ; ) '■"■■■ 1 ■ M l,.^ t > ^ 236 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE shocks; and it has assumed so completely the human form, as lo be styled the Old Man of Hoy. This gigantic figure mny be about five hundred feet high. i' vh^'' If the lowness of the easterii shore gives it a less grand appearance, yet the kdges of sunken rocks, on which many a gallant vessel ha^j perished, together with the hor- rid breaker:^ roaring mountain high above them, do not fail to inspire a spectator with e^ual awe and terror. The Cathedral of St, Magnus, at Kirk- wall, is built of a reddish kind of stone, in the shape of a cross ; and it looks, at a short distance, much liks a brick edifice. It is of very large dimensions ; and appears to a stranger in a more imposing light, because it is erected on an eminence. The square tower issuing from the top of the cathedral. TO HUDSON S BAT. 23; cathedral, in the centre of the cross, was formerly surmounted by a magnificent spire ; but being shattered some few years ago, by lightning, a mean brick substitute has since been erected. There is an amazing number of windows ; many of which have been lately broken ; and there are two in the shape of a rose, exceedingly antique and beautiful. t i ^^^' h^k' «L \t^. ••i^'if .*-.' ^' i^tj'The doors of this structure are low and arched, surrounded by a curious embtoi- dery of the same red stone as the rest of the building. On entering the main portal, the space not allotted to public worship, the roof is supported by a double row of enormous columns, eight on each side : they are very simple and plain, com- posed of square stones laid over each other horizontally, and the shafts of the pillars are of the same diameter from their capitals to their bases. Owing to the moisture ismmmmm^'^^imt: i ' I I 23S y \ NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE moisture of the place, a green mould has coTcred them, and given to the interior a most yenerahle aspect. J0d^ Passing up the centre of the isle hetvreen these aged pillars, we arrive at the centre of the cross, where four immense fluted columns support the spire, hells, and clock.' A boarded partition then runs across the church; and a scrap of Scripture painted over a door marks out the place of modern worship. The interior of this part is neat, and ornamented with some fine specimens of carved oak, about two hundred years old. Over many of the seats are antique escutcheons of the former Earls of Ork^. The one appertaining to Earl Patrick Stuart, last Earl of Orkney, (who was beheaded,) was quartered with lions and ships, and inscribed thus: E SIC • Fvrr • EST • ET * twrt P : S We TO HUDSON 8 BAY, 239 lid has jcnoT a etvrecn centre fluted 1 clock. OSS the painted modern is neat» icimens I years antique Patrick bo was ns and We had the curiosity to go up to the belfry, by spiral staircases between the outer and inner walls of the cathedral. The number and intricacy of these dark passages was really astonishing ; and the darkness of the place inspiring gloomy ideas, we fancied that it was in such dismal recesses that the bigotted monks used formerly to immure their victims. 1 here is one fine bell, and two inferior ones, in the churchy and a noble clock by a Scotch mechanist. From the belfry, a small door opens upon a rough ledge about two feet wide: the view from this dizzy height was extremely fine, as the town of Kirkwall, the adjacent islands, and numerous lochs, appear to lie in a panoramic view beneath the feet : but we were truly glad to re-enter the belfry> as the want of security on the ledge quite destroyed the pleasure arising from so fine a prospect. On We — s mmM4miuKumt».«mn'., . . i j 240 NARRATIVS OF A VOVAOt l! ' 'v ■» I ■ u- On leaving the Cathedral of St, Magnus, we stepped aside, between the enormous cir- cular columns before mentioned, to observe the only sepulchral arch of any antique ap- pearance in the place. There was a shield sculptured at the apex, bearing three hearts as a device; from which we conjectured that it must have received the ashes of a Douglas — the heart having been the device of this family ever since the heart of the far- famed Bruce was conveyed, by that king's desire, to the Holy Land, by an Earl Douglas*. This noble cathedral is said to have been built in the year 1200, and is in an excel- lent state of preservation. | .; ^' . ■ h On the right of Si. Magnus stand the ruins of the palaces formerly inhabited by the ^ « See Walt?r iScoff's Notes oa MarmwHt a Tale of Hodden Field. a TO HUDir S BAY. r 241 fagnus, DU8 cir- sbserve jue ap- L shield 2 hearts red that Douglas vice of the far- t king's an Earl ye been excel- \j and the »itcd by the of Ftodden the Earls and Bishops of Orkney* The cathedra] and palace are within a stone's throw of each other; but the .latter stands on each side of a space which appears to have been the former court-yard of the building. The entrance to this court-yard is by a low arched gateway. The palace of the Earls is in better preservation than the cathedral ; and it is to be regretted, that the dilapidations to which it is exposed are suffered to take place. ,m ..?* The corners of the Earl's palace are laden with immense turrets, which give the building a very heavy appearance. The main portal is a massy low door- way; and the ascent to the great hall is by a fine broad flight of stone steps. Within the hall are two arched fit- places, each sufficiently capacious to roa3t an ox whole. One of the fire-places is formed beneath an arch constructed in R the ■'i^t*siMmn^Uim»m I i li! K v i I)' [■ t' 242 NARMATIVS OP A VOYAGE the usual way ; but the other is considered as a curiosity in architecture : it is a plane arch, supported by the transverse joining of the stones without the aid of cement. The windoyirs of the hall are high and arched, but without either frame-work or glass. ' The Bishop*s palace is now nearly de- stroyed; and, from the unceasing attacks made upon it, will soon be entirely so. It is difficult to ascertain the original shape of this venerable structure ; there being but two walls now remaining. At the end of one of these walls is a circular tower, of great strength and solidity, which, probably, was intended for the defence of the palace. Although the Earl and the Bishop had their residences so near to each other, yet the temporal and ecclesiastical Chiefs were ever at variance, and their I quarrels '4v JU,.^ TO HUDSON 8 BAY. 243 quarrels and intrigues occupy a large por- tion of the Orkney history. yf The town of Kirkwall consists of one long narrow street, which, from its proxi- mity to the sea, and its central situation, was chosen to be the metropolis of the Orkneys many years ago : it is now a royal burgh, and it sends one member to Parlia- ment. The street is generally damp and muddy, and there are very few good-look- ing houses in it. The house of a gentle- man of the name of Baikie has five or six trees growing before it; and these are, I believe, almost the only trees in Orkney \ although it be proved, from the number of roots dug up occasionally, that the Orkneys, in former times, were by no means desti-, tutcofwood*. • -4r • Fossil timber, in a mineralized state, is found in the Orkneys and in thi- Hebrides. In the island of Skie there was found part of a large tree mineralized by Hornstoni\ which is now in the possession of the Professor of Mineralogy at Cambridge, R 2 The ii 244 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE ^^: ' The town is badly lighted ; but, in this respect, it is superior to Stromness ; which place cannot boast of a single lamp., When we mentioned this neglect, during a conversation with one of the magis- trates, he most ingeniously parried the attack, by asserting that the inhabitants were all so sober and good, that they never quitted their houses after dark ; con- sequently the lighting of the town would be attended with unnecessary exj^ense and trouble. ^ The people of Kirkwall boast much of the Ayr, a public promenade belonging to the town. The Jyr is a natural embank-^^^ ment, projecting like a pier into the sea,f and it is washed on both sides by the water. In summer time, the Jyr must prove a very refreshing walk, and an agveeable escape from the filthy street of Kirkwall ^ With tm s a .33^ .a TO HUDSON*S BAY. 245 - With regard to the people of Orkney, it will be only necessary to add, that a most unbounded hospitality is their leading cha- racteristic ; and perhaps an eager curiosity is also an equally prominent trait. When a stranger enters the town of Kirkwall, the intelligence of his arrival flies with the rapidity of wild-fire : the old women, with their knitting apparatus in their hands, stand staring at the doors ; and they hardly su^r him to pass, before his ears are assailed by a general inquiry of ** D'ye ken whd that chiel isf^ This exclamation is repeated by a dozen voices at once, at every door he passes in his route; and he will perhaps feel uneasy in thus becoming an object of scrutiny to the whole population. * The people of Orkney are naturally grave and sober, with much outward ap- pearance of devotion ; yet, at the annual fair which is held at Kirkwall, they sud- denly Il^^ ■TwffiF 246 NAREATIVE OF A VOYAGE, &C. ■ n L denly relax into the most unbridled licen- tiousness: neither are they in general to be admired for the honour or liberality of their dealings, as they delight in making what is called a ** gude bargain T and they feel no hesitation in overcharging a stranger, to accomplish this desirable end. • ♦ .t » 1 I shall here conclude this Narrative; merely adding, that the Rosamond and her convoy again sailed from the Orkneys on the 7th o{ November, and arrived safe at the Nore on the 17th of the same month; when an inspection having been made of the Rosa- mond's defects, she was reported to be totally unfit for sea, in consequence of the damage she had sustained amongst the ice of Hudson s Straits; and she was accord- ingly put out of commission, and imme- diately advertised to be sold out of His Majesty's service. "J$r >• ••• .^i:.Arf^y 247 ,, «V>5.;i I }ibVid>'- Appendix (A). STATEMENT of the VARIATION of the COMPASS, WEST FROM LOMCOX. iProm the Latitude of . .... 59»|oO N. From the Longitude of S' to 6° >■•••• 28° 6" ... 12" • • • • 31° 32° 34" f liS ... lO 16" ... 18" • • • • • jif"' •• • r^ 18" ... 22" » • • • 36" ^3 ^ ^ *^ 22" ... 26"' • • • 38° ^mj 26"' ... 30* ' -•* '"■ •■ ■ 40° 30" ... 34" • • • 42° 2 —.">'*' &- 34» ... 39" • • ■ 44° rr^^ 39" ... 42" • • • 45° 2^ s- 42° ... 60" • • • 45° 60» ... 63" • • • 47° f i»...78* int i .at. 63° N. 48° & 49" V8» ... 8r . 62° , 40' 48» ^ QO^QD 81».45*.., — 62° . 38' 46« • • • • ^ tn SS 82" . — ...— 62° i<>' 44° 00 C^K^QO 82». 15' ...— 62° . J4' 42° a; aj^a: 82V 00' ...— 82» . 45' ... — 62°. as* 62° . 30' 40° 38° t^ o 83" . — ..'. — 62" . 25' , 36* 1 83° . 30' ... — 02° . 00' 33° j^ ^^l» 85° . 00' ... — 61" . 30' 28° 87° . 00' ... — 60° . 45' 22° 89° .—,..— 59° . 45* 19° 91° . -^ ... 92° 92° . — ... 95° 59° . 00' 59° . 00' 11« 5* "' ''»**■ gll tiMHW..■ A ■ ♦^iRTKi -.' -m^ Appendix (C). :SS^ THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT OXFORD HOUSE, HUDSON'S BAY In the Year 1811 BY MEANS OF A SPIRIT THERMOMETER, GRADUATED ACCORDING TO THE SCALE OF FAHRENHEIT. Shewing the Extreme Heat and Extreme Cold of each Month. JANUARY. Extreme Heat. At Noon on the 20th, 38 degrees above 0. . . Rainy, Extreme Cold. At 8 A. M. on the 12th, 51 degrees below 0. . . Clear. Sute of the Atmosphere. FEBRUARY. Extreme Heat. At 8 p. M. on the 24th, 39 degrees above 0. . Extreme Cold. At 8 A. y\. on the 20tli. 35 degrees below 0. . MARCH. f Extreme Heat. At 8 p. M. on the 17th, 44; degrees above 0. . Extreme Cold. At 6 A.M. on the 5th, 31 degrees below 0. . . Cloudy. . Clear. . Overcast, Rain. . Clear, h Mil .•?_:V.*»».vJ si*';^aS4i»:-:**i ,v;, ' 1. li! ^ 2S0 :•(•!.■ APPENDIX (C).— «oti/t'iiuetf. State of the Atmoipherc. I! ,#:.:i ;r T APRIL. Extreme Heat. At 8 p. M. on the 14th, 57 degrees above 0. . . Overcast, Extreme Cold. At 6 A. M. on the 3d, 22 degrees below 0. . . Clear. ,-r MA Se Extreme Heat. At 8 p. M. on the 30th, 65 degrees above 0. . . Cloudy. Extreme Cold. At 5 A. M. on the 10th, 15 degrees above 0. . . Clear. JUNK. Extreme Heat. At 4. A.M. on the 22d, 85 degrees above 0. . . Thick fog. Extreme Cold. At 5 A.M. on the 1st, 32 degrees above 0. . . Showers. JULY. Extreme Heat. At 5 A. M. on the 18th, 85 degrees above 0. . . Clear. Extreme Cold. At 5 A.M. on the 29th, 35 degrees above 0. . . Cloudy. AUGUST. Extremis Heat. At 8 p.m. on the 17th, 80 degrees above 0. . . Clear. Extreme Cold. At 5 A.M. on the 26^V'. 37 degrees above 0. . . Clear. SEPTEMBER. Extreme Heat. At 5 A. M. on the 6th, 78 degrees above 0. . . Clear. Extreme Cold. .\t6 A.M. on the 30th, 18 degrees above 0. . . Clear. 'ih THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS. -251 ::i State of the Almotphere. OCTOBER. Extreme Heat. At 6 A.M. on the 4th, 45 degrees above 0. . . Clear. Extreme Cold. At 6 A.M. on the 21 st, 11 degrees below 0. . . Clear. NOVEMBER. Extreme Heat. At 6 A.M. on the 2d, 37 degrees above 0. . . Rather overcast. Extreme Cold. At 6 A.M. on the 18th, 26 degrees below 0. . . Overcast. DECEMBER. Extreme Heat. i At 8 P.M. on the 6th, 22 degrees above 0. . . Clear. Extreme Cold. At 6 A.M. on the 23d, 31 degrees below 0. . . Cloudy. ■^!!«8i«»£s«aKK.-i.;,-.-i-it m 252 a u APPENDIX (D.) iz3 CO Cm . o < o •<: o t> P4 '^ H o <1 OS H c» pa <1 H H O Q X Id ft 4) w •O B 9 a .•a o 31. 1 = 5?s ^ c ■O 111 JO s Si g v> E 2 « ■S •a > «0 9 O H H JO «5 •a 9 00 o 1 3 e S CO 00 8 «o "2 O) a 5 u .S *^ » tj o 2-g (0 «5 00 1 d s 09 If >0 CO S w hi 9 e s CO 1 ©aid . "5 a, — ►, a i l.s I «4 » ;2< '5? 1^ 00 CO 0) CO c« a to d c» 60 d 2 <« a I' ^1' A U5 00 T5 O r 8 00 0« W 0) 8 -191 ^ 00 . 111 ,5 .f So (if)j5 o » S 6 d * § « . 8 * B u 3 in a -5 c^ uj ;o eo K5 IN s a S S5 •4* t J- o ■a (4 S bO d s n «> ■5 ^ • at <-> ^ N »o F-t S5 in « •4* I) M to «■ ^ V 4> 00 O) .vk-«! 263 -N-- -•:i- {!■ Appendix (E). r • t t'l' mi ^rb •;;nr'.7r^- ' •v'\^\ ,:: r.'^u LIST or THE DRESSES, &c. OF THE ESQUIMAUX INDIANS IN Hudson's stkaits Brought by Nit MtQettjf'a Ship Rosamond in 1814 AKD Pretentcd by LIEUTENANT CHAPPBLL to th* Univenity Library »t CambiUae. Dress of the Men, made of Seal-skins. Dress of the Women, M^ith a Hood and Tail, made of the Moose-Deer Skinsi ■l B- rr Seal-skin Boots of the Men, water proof. Boots of the Women. .r. i < . 1 . .. Gloves of ditto. Dress of an Esquimaux Child, made of the; Skins of Sea Mice. Pouch of Seal-skin. Ditto of the Dog-fish, with the Fins remuning, as Or- naments. Small Box made of Rushes, in which they carry their Trinkets. A most curious Mask for defending the Eyes from the Snow, with a Pifijie for t^e Ornaments of their Fore- heads. '5!«W«Bl*^tai.ws< ■ ! ': 'h t . ?u Ift mw 254 APPENDIX (is.)— c.)N//«wrf. Barb of a Harpoon, with Sculptured Images of Water- Fowls. Instrument when by they hurl their Darts^ Arrov^ji;, and Harpoons. Two of their Images ; the one representing a Man, and the other a PVoman, in the Esquimaux Dress ; shewing the first dawning of sculpture, and their inabiHty to repre- sent the human countenance, hands, or feet. LIST of Articles illustrating the Manners and Customs of the Natives of the North-western Coast of Amk-. RIGA; brought to Europe by Commodore Billings. Machines used in casting their Arrows ; from the neigh- bourhood c^ Cook's River. Harpoons *>f liovie, with Ropes made of the Tendons of Animal?*. Ditto of Fossil Ivory, with ditto. Idols of Wood and Hair, brought to the Coast firom the interior of the North- American Continent. // Bone Fish-hooks. Pouches, worn by the Men f >i *^overing the Genitals, made of a Marine Plant. Head-dresses of the Women, made of the Entrailj of Fishes. . Dresses of Men and Women, made of Skins of Moose- Deer. '■'■■■- -':f-' *li ■! APPENDIX (E.)->c«nf/NW«t^w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) >/■ J? t ^.^ V -^ h '^ i.O |J0 ^^ 12^ 125 I.I ■it us ■u lit Lo 12.0 PholDgFEqiiic Sdmces Corporalion 23 VVIST MAIN STMIT wnsnR,N.Y. !4sao (716)t73-4303 ^ /. ( ■ •iij 'i li ^ W ."jy.- 1 .( 266 ) Appendix (F). A VOCABULARY LANGUAGE OF nn CREE or KNISTENEAUX* INDIANS iNHAiniNa THK WESTERN SHORES OF HUDSON'S BAT rntwttd to the Author by a Trader who had resided Thirty Yeart in that Cowtiy. AVHlSt implies what is past« and could not be avoided. AS'tttftt, As-tum-et-tay, As-kow-wee, Ap'pah-qua'Som, Ap-pus-swy-uchf Ah'chakk, As'tum-as-taik, AufooS'tis-peCt Astum-us-pee, A-gues-spee, Ath'tha-gusk'COWt Ah-tO'We-thahy Come liere. On this side of any particiilair spot. Bottdn. Tent leather alone. . Tent'poles. The soul. In the sunshine. Past such a time. Prior to such a time. At such a time. Broad. It certainly was so. Ah-tues-cajft To work, toil, labour, or attend as a servant. Ah'too-ska-ihog-gan, An attendant, or servant. Asse-chtf Also, Besides. \ Ke-we'Ass(usu-mm, You mean to deceive me. Ahftah'mah, Very often repeated. * So call«d by tife Canadiani. 'Ut ciiirn: ' •m ? DIANS ■ in that Owntiy. ot be avoided, ^articiilai^ ipot. ofi 1 as a servant, ant. \ ) me. LANGUAGE OF THE CREE INDIANS. 267 Ke-we-Jth'the-mah-hUtin, I mean to be troublesome to you. As-cow, Sometimes. jiquaif-thakk,orjiqjta'thochtTh» fintt\me. Athee'Vuis-sutf jtssus-kee, Ahhy-toWt Abby-tham- oo- tuch, An-nis-coo'tah-panf Ah'tie, Ah-spee-che, An-nouchf . Chcpai' tuck'guow, Gow-ish-she-moo, Nc'tve- Cow-ish'e'inoon, Cow-wow, Chim-mah-sinf Cat'tght Ke-gah-Cah-twah-tint Co'ke-oOf Cup-pah'she-moo, Capipah'She-mow, Chick-ka-tnah, Che-powee, Copan-na-sue, ' Cooke-kay, Cock-ke-thou^t Che-che, Che-che-coom, Che-che-kinf Chah- kiet-tin-'ntw, Cas-pow, Chup-pah-sfush, Cup-pow-a-tkoue, Ill-natured, Hard to please. Earth, or mould. Half. Middle of a canoe. A knot of any kind of line. Fur. In the meanwhile, whilst. Just now. Blue. Go to bed. • r I want to go to bed. Rough. Short. Conceal it. I will conceal it from you. ^ Dive. To bathe. Ta boil meat. Yes. Narrow. A common man. Always. All of them. Finger. Wart. To scratch. ^ A bill. Rising ground. BritUe. Below, Beneath. Leav'ing off paddling at the ap- proach of winter. S wm \ i I (i 25B APPENDIX (f). Ke-Chim.mah.cak.pow.wis'in, Yoa are short. Ke-Co-pah-chemoon, You disappoint yourself. Cos-see-hah, To wipe. To rub out. Cos'see-quarit A towel. Cos-sah-higgan, The impIenHent used in rubbing out any tiling. Che-man, Name of a canoe. Check-a-gam, Close to the shore. £f-ifcaA, N.B. In recounting a dream, this word is much made use of. Ethin-artick, Es'skun, Ethe-e-coke, Eth-e-coke-queth-e-mow, Eth-the-loak'-cow, i> ' imma-Ethe-hoak-cow, Ethin-nut-tookt A small kind of pine. Home. •Striving. Strive. Wise, Sensible. Foolish, Not wise. In reality. Ethin-nut-lo, Common, The most common kind of any thing. Ethee-pin-nay, Egah'Waudge-no-gun, Egah-pittahf Esqua, Es'pee'hum-modk, Ethin-ne-woo, Truly. Any thing almost imperceptible^ Stop a little. Presently. Flying high. Living, Still alive. En-coo-se-queth^e-moan, I think myself a conjure., or godlike. Espim-mick, E-sput'tin-now, Es'pum-me-seehf Es-qui'ttn-mekf Ke-Guy-as-sues-stah'tin, Gay'toW'Woo, Gay-tah'tirt'e-thick, Cay-te'Un, Gay-te-an, . Above. Steep, or paing ground. A little above. The end. JC I will hide myself from you. Reflection, To reflect. The whole number. It happened to you. It happSned to me. '« t any tiling. dream» this use of. m of any thing, lerceptible^ i\-^. ., or godlike, kd. iHI,' in you. ^ t. , ■..• LANGUAGE OF THE CREE INDIANS. 269 Guy-tut, Guy-tat, Guy-tow-umt-oc'punny, Guy-toW'ivat-oo-punnyy Guy-tack-oo-punny, Cuy-tisk'oo-punny, Guy-sus-takee, Hay-wee, Hay-way, Hay-waw, How-wee-gas-take, ' Hook-e-moow, Hay-e-tus-see-chick, Huth-thee-wah-ka-kin, . You to him. He to him. You said so to him. He said so. He said so of him. He said so of you. At the same place. A word of notice. Have you found it — inanimate. Have you found it — animate. Not exposed to the ray of the sun. A Chief. As many as there are. A word of surprise. I-es-cue, I-es-coo-tai-oo, J-es-coos-se-man, latn-me, Ith-e-cah-pah-low, Kit-Ithe-cah-hittan, Tired. Tired with walking. Tired with paddling. Talk, or Speak. Run away, Not to be found. I have eat or drunk without saving you any, or without asking you to partake. Is-see-loy-tayoo, To set off by land. Kiska-tow-a-coWf A high bank. Ke'shich, The blue sky. Keshi-cow, Day. Ke-too, Any noise made by an animate being Ke-too-mah-gun, or J Any noise made by an inanimate 1 object. Ke-too-mah-gusk, Kis-sway-way, Talk loud. Egah-Kis-sway-wayt Don't talk loud. Kis-tuck-gak-much, Main land. Kitt-woWf » long. 260 APPENDIX (f). :i(«4 11 IN Xe-ehe, Ke-hitch-chu, Kin-nO'koo-moWf Kis-ki-ow'WOWy Kisshe-as-tun, Kishee-puthetii Kisshe-wahk, Kissas-tow, Ka-ke'che-moo, Kissleth-e'tnoo, Equal to you.' Any thing grand. A long bke. Deep water. Fast sailing. Any thing moving ^t. Nigh at hand. Middling. Insignificance. Proud, Haughty, Opinionated. Kfi-Kuck-quay-che'tnet-tin, I ask you. Kuck-quay-che-that-hit'tooky Strive to excel each other. Kuck'qua'che-ptiS'ke-'that'hU'tookf To support a spirit of emu- lation. To awaken. Awaken me. The present opportunity. Perhaps. When (future). Plain to be seen. Calling like a goose. You did speak. Cut it in two, (a stick or piece of wood.) KooS'Coori, Koos-cooti'ne-gan, Kas-ses-coWf Kis-tin-natch, Kts-piuy Ke-kah-nah-gUHf Kc'too-his-caf Ke-ke-toon, Kis-scut-tah, 'B Kis-scut'ta-higgan, Ke-hoo-tay-'Oo, Ke-hich-coo, Kith-the-pah, Kit-tis-kin-noWf Ka-mo-he-how, Ke-ket'te-mah-how, A stump, the remaining part of a tree cut down. To visit. : Any thing escaping. 'k Be quick. Make haste. ^^ To let fall. , You teaze it. You are cruel to him. He-Kit-te-mah-tin-na-wow, I feel for him. Kulh'ke-tai-wap-pit, Black eyes. Ke-kickf < Your house or cabin. Kis-pin-nut-tow, To earn. To come at. To purchase. LANGUAGE OP THE CREE INDIANS. 261 ,.^rt^«rt-^Hi^ W*' onated. ler. tirit of ema- 'M hi: 5 of wood.) )art of a tree That you should see it, wasHhe rta- son we brought it. To tell falsehood. Good-natured. Friendless. } Steep hill. Kut'che-wap'pum'mut, \ Go'pa-she-wug'geet, ^ Ke-thas-kah'che-moOf Kis-shu'Wah'tis-suet Ke-wak'tis'Sue, Kis-kahrmuhtin-now, Kis-kah-pis'COWf Ke-satch, Immediately. Ke-satch-ut-tow-way-unn, Debt, or buying before you intend to pay. A dressed skin. Dress it. To warm. To make warm. To cook, either by boiling or roasting^ Any thing old or worn out. A person talking impatiently. Boasting, To boast. You speak ironically. You are not clever or acute. Making a noise like scratching. A fool. God. Kee'siri'ne'gun, Kee'Sin-nah, Kis-sis-sah, Kee-siS'Sah, Ky-as-en-equn, Kusheth'etum-etah'goos, Ka-ke-chc'tnoo, Ke-has-sis-pO'tniny Ke'Ka-pah-tis-s'in, Ke-they-e-tou, Kis-quay-can, , Manito, Mus-cow-wow, or Mus-cow-wis'Sue, Strong. ^o purchase. Ne-Me-thou, Ne-Meeth-kk, Ne-Meeth-ick-gowijif Ne-Meetk-ick-wuck, Ne-Meeth-thou-uck, Ne-Meeth'thee-ammet, Ne-Meeth-kk-coo-nan, Ke-Meeth-kk, Ke-Meeth-it'Un, Owee-nah-gah-Me-thisk, Owee-nah-kc'Meetk'kh-coo. I gave it to him. He gave it to me. It was given to me. They gave it to me. I gave it to them. He or she gave it to us. It was given to us by him. It was given to you. I give it to you, or I gave it to yoa. } Who gave It to you ? 262. .«S?A! APPENDIX (f). kJ Owee-nah-wah-Mee-thui, Who do you design to give it to? -\ Owee-nak-wahrMee-thutf Who doej he intend to give it to ? Owee-nah-gah-Mee-that, Who did he give it to? f^WjA Oufee-nah-gah'Mee-thkk-coot,Vf ho was it given to ? j^ Owee-na'hah-Mee'thick-cootf Who ? a Mec-thick-coot, Any thing given from one person to another. Mee-thee-cootf Hairy nose. Mee'this'tow-wan, Beard. 'i. Mee-the-chap, Hairy face. Mith'coo^ . Blood. Mith-coo-sue, or Mith-gwoWt Red. »'■} Mah'tow-wee, Poor flesh. Any thing not fat. W Mah-Mah-tow-wee-wick, Ditto, (plural.) A Mee-get'toap, A tent, when erected. M^. Mut-too-gaphy Where a tent formerly stood. Min-nis-tick, An island. A Min-nay-he-wat-iun, Point of land. ■< Mess'kaik, A plain, or swamp. ■Vi Mis'Sick-a-tnow, A large lake. Vi; Matoon-eth-cchiggan, The mind. •- Musqua, Black bear. Oo-sow-we-Musqua, Brown ditto. Missee'rHUsqua, Grizzlier, great bear. J^ah-pisk, White bear. Minna-higt Large pine. Metuse, Poplar. > Mithqua-pim-moohf Red willow. MuH'Tia-win, Barren country^ not plentiful. Me-chim'ts-skum'tnif-gon, A country abounding in provision. Ke-Meth'tho'tho'tow-woiv, . You use him well. N'Ne-mith'toO'too-lakk, He uses me well. Ne-me-tah-tow, I regret the loss without crying. Ne-tnoW'Wee-cah-tow, I r^ret the loss with crying. ^ Missa-gow, To arrive. Missa-gmV'Uckt They are arrived, or I arrive4. lU LANGUAGE OP THB CREE INDIANS. 268 jr'ive it to? give it to ? to another. lot fat. stood. "Oiwi Qtiful. } provisioD. , crying, jring. rivedt Missa-gy-ack, '. ATtssa-gy-eg, Ne-Missu'gan'nau, Muthch-e-puthue, - Math-e-puthue, Mach'Wanget Mack-waS'kahf Mah-that-lun, Me-tho'Was-sin, Me-tho-sis'tue, Me-tho-nah'gttfti Much-il-nah-gun, Much-ethe- lah-gun, Metho'tah'gun, Ne-Meth-thoot-tow-wow, Ne-Mueh'in-nak-u/ow, Ne-Mith- thoo-noUf'tuow, My'itch-che, If Ne-M'tth-thoo-wah-tan, I am happy. ' We have arrived. ' . ^'xA~ -^? You arrived (plural.) I and my companions arrived. Any thing moving slowly. Any thing that does not go well, as a gun that does not throw its shot well. At that time. To overtake. Bad. Good. Handsome Good-looking. Ordinary. Disagreeable. Agreeable talking. I dislike talking. I think it ugly. I think it handsome. Exactly. Ne-Mah-mus-kah' tain, Ma'tnuh'lah'coo-sue, Me-iow'wee, N'me-tow-wilh-e-moon, Mun-nus-qua, Me-tho-mah-qun, Me-tho-goWt Mtsse-hen, Ke-Misse'hen, Muck-coQ-ia, N'gah-muck-c6o-saHt Mahtin-nah-wayoo, Mah'hum, Mah'hii'Cumt I am surprised. Proud. Longing foi- any thing eatable. I am longing, or I am a lon'^^i*. To make ready with 9 gun. Sweet smell. Fine^ Sof%, Mossy. To occasion a difference between two persons You have injured me in the opinion of such a person. To feast. I will feast, or I will make a feast To divide. To share. To go before the current. To walk from inland to the shore. 264 APPENDIX (f). u\ Mo-tivay-tayoo, or Matwajf-way, Report of a gun. Mun-nah-che-tow, Mun-nah'che-how, Ke'tnun-nah-che-hittan, Ke-gah-maw-wee^m it tan, Moo'tchuck, MiS'Cow-woWf MuS'Cow-woWf Misshe'tvay, Ne^moO'See- how, Ne-mee-scoo-nau, Ne-moo-see-tan, Mis-ske-shick, Mith-quah'ftit, Mis'kee-shick-cake, Missah'gow, Missa-goW'tna'OS'tUH, Min-O'ho, In-ne-tah-mina- ho, Nut-to-min'tiah-ho, Mus-hu'kee, Mus-cow-umn, Ne-Me'tay-win, Ne-Me-tay-with'Cmoon, .U •1 To apare^ or be frugal. To avoid oftending. I do not with to offend you. I aball hurt your feelings. Alwaya. To find. Hard. The whole. I feel it inwardly or outwardly. I feel it with my hand. I feel its motion, , Eyes. Red eyes. The face. To arrive by water. To arrive by sailing as a ship. To provide provender. Applied to a good hunter, signifies he is not deficient in providing for his fiimily . A man in the employ of a hunter. Physic. A strong mind, A strong opinicm. I am a conjiuer. I think myself a conjurer. Ne-Mun-tO'win, or Ne-murt'ii^to-win, lam godlike. Nt-Me-tow-wan, , Mah'that'chis-la-hay'OO, Ne-much-elhe-mow, Miss'Sa-gy-akk, Mis-sa-gy-eg, Mis-sa-gow-wuck, Mis'Sah-gow,] Mif'Sah'gan, I long for it. Ill-natured, Quarrelsome, Hard- hearted. I have a bad opinion of him. We arrive by water. ■■ Yo^ arrive by water. ,-^ They arrive by water. . To arrive. I arrive. i^i '•e* LANOUAGK OF THE CREE INDIANS. 265 1. I you. *:\ itwardly. I a ship. r. . - lignifies he U forhisfimuly. of a hunter. ong opinion. urer. Uke. lome, Hard- of him. ■i.ii^'-j'V.i^ Mis-suh'gan-nant Ne-Mis'Sah'gak-nan, Ne-Mis-sah-gan , Ke'Mis'Sah-gan, Gak-Mis'iah'gtf-akk, Gah-MiS'Sak-gy-egt Mis-shh-gy-akk'ke, Mis-sah'gy-akk-coo, ,J.'!5J r. Mis-sa-gt/'eg-co, Mis-sah'gy-ahny, Moos-tus-cum-meekf Moo-cheek, Mah-ckis-tun, Ke-Me-me-thick'ke-tint Ke-MitHo-nah-goo'sin, Ke-Much-ecnah' goo-sin t Ke-Mitho-nah-tin, Ke-Mitho-nah-k, Ke-Much-nah-tin, Ke-Much-e-hah-ky Mah-nah'goo-tee, My-ak-quam, Muchee, Moi'See, Mis-tay-hay, ' Mis-le-sue, Mes-tin-nah, Mcs-lun-mick, Me-sah-kum, Me-sah-higgan, May-che-moose, May-che-how, We arrive. We arrived. I arrived. You arrived. When we arrived. Wlien you arrived. When we arrive, (speaking to a person not of the party.) When we arrive, (speaking to one of the party.) When you arrive. When I arrive. The ground, The e.nrili. On the ground. Breaking up of the river-ice. You are large. You are handsome. You are ugly. You appear handsome to me. He thinks you handsome. I think you ugly. He thinks you ugly. Min4ifit is not so. Mind if I do not, (a threat.) Indiflerent, Not good, Not pleasing.. Much. A great quantity. Scalded or burnt. To expend. Expended. The white skin that is between the bark and body of a tree. To patch. To mend by patching. The patch. A little. Tq /extirpate. T ' y^ ( i; t ''i II ■' 266 Ne-May-hay-pit'chin, Muck-c(hlo-pay 'OOt APPENDIX (f). To move toward die na-thore. A itomach that can bear a great qnantity of liquor. Writing. To be very careful of any peraon. A veuel used for drinking, A pot. / weic/i-cAu-atM, A fishing* wire. Handy, Not auk ward. A length of time. To build a house. To erect a tent. Weak. Applied to a great ileqper. He ii a-sleep, or Sleep. Go to sleep. Where do you want to sleep ? Where shaU I sleep } Our dwelling, or tent. Listen to me. A point. Rocky point. A word of surprise. Land in sight at a great distance. To the north. To the south. 8ilver pine. Willow. A landing-place. You grieve. For a little time. Nug-gisk-cow'wow, Two walking parties meeting on a joome^. Nuck-ka-wowt To meet by water. Ne-hee, Right. Ne-ach'toa-win, Aukward. iPNah^quHick, He left me behind. Missina-higgan, MaUh-waith-e-mai-oo, Minne-quog-gartf MeUh'chU'kun, Ne-Meth-oon, Miiho-wo'gast, Mah-no-kay, • iV>*/Aa/-mw'iH«, Nip-as-cu9f Nippow, Uh-t &c. That. Tell him to come here. I did not speak. I nerer said so. No-cht'chig'gay, Na-mak, Nut-toomfft t» i I, Num-tnum-ne-kee-toon, Numma-no- che- etwaut Numma'ne- ke-e-twant Nah-pait, Nutha-hum, Nut-too- tum-wow, Nut-tah-aes-atm, Nee-skoo, Ne-shoo-stoo-wow, Nub-lut-lay-stow-in, No-tum-me-hick, J I cannot say it. To go against the current. To ask for it. To walk inland from the sea-shore. Two. A doable shot, killing two at a time. A hut with a back and two sides, open in front. I am puzzled or plagued by him* Nay-pay-catch, Moderate, Not in the extreme either way. Ne-gan, Nay-pay-quan, Nay-pay- kak-hoo-soo, Nut-io-ko-howt Going before. To break one's fast. To break one's ftst with the pro- duce of his hunt. To administer physic. Ne-mutch-che-the-wo'sin, 1 am disappointed. T2 iH ! i 'I' '> r 1 'J c i •' If i 1 ■1 p ) h ■ », . ^ u 268 APPENDIX (f). Ne-mow-win, Provisions for a journey. N" Ne-ne -mah-tiickj Goods entrusted to the disposal of another. No-cke-how, To work at. N'Gah'Ho-chi-chiggan, I will employ myself. No-sin-na-wow, To go after any thing. •'•i ^^. No-hak-wow, To go after any thing on the water. No-at-tick-way, The act of going after deer with a canoe. Not'attick-way , Hunting deer by land or water. - Ke-Nah-nah-toke-kat-hou'i You tease it. Nup-puch-is-sue, Ne^Nut-tay-hay-pitchin, Nis-to-pay-oOy N^Nis-to-pan, Ke-Nus-coo-mittany Ke-NuS'Coo- moon, No-chim-mick, Nass, or Nah-tah, ■ Noo-tow-wee, Nick-gow-wee, Noo'tah, Nic-cah, Nis'Slais, Oo'slaisy Ne-seem, Ne-mis, N*che'wakam, Ne-che-san^ Ke-shisk, No'^um-'mis, N-lo-shisk, Nis-sc'Coos, JVb-ctiM> Ne-moo-soom, No-sis-sim, Nis-timy Flat, Thin. To move inland. Not having a'fill^ I have not had my fill. I give you my consent. You have given your consent. From the water in the woods. Fetch it, or Go for it. My :Bither. My mother. Father. Mother. My dder brother. '' His or her elder brother. My younger brother or sister. My dder sister. My brother. My nearest relation, as brother or sistsr. My uncle. My father>in>raw. My mother-in-law. My aunt or step-mother. My grandmother. My grandfather. My grand-son or grand-daagbtWk My niece. >."»»-fe,i4aJrt*'^/i ,' f of another. t the water, ith a canoer r water. >nsent. woods. •r. r sister. her or sUter. ler. KSJi« d-dangbMfk LANGUAGE OP THE CREE INDIANS. 269 Kis-gim-mis, My cousin— female. ^e-tim. My cousin— male. Nees-tow, My brother-in-law. N-cha-coose, a relation on the woman's side only. N-teet-tow-wow, The relationship between two people whose children are united in marriage. No-tassuee, Good for nothing. Ke-Ninne-ke-twan, You are in a hurry. Oo-ne-gaph, Carrying-place. Oo-skah-ta-gow, or Oo-shisk, Fur. Oo-skun, Bone. Oo-tay-hee, The heart. Oo-tay, Boiling. And, See-cah-che-wut-tayoo, Boiling over. Oo-mah-moggah, • This too, or This also, Oo-mah, This. Oo-iahk, Going behind. Oo'sow-we-quay, ' Brown face. Owanah-n'^ah'nut'tO'mine'nah'hook, Who will hunt for me ? vh Oo-tah-coo-sin, Ow-wee-how, Oo-wee-hah-sue, Oo'tee, and Ou-see, Oo'takk-athttck, 0-ask-kah-puS'ke-layoo, Oo-sken-equm, Ooscooh-lim, Oth'this-sah, Ne-Pah-wah-min, Pemee, Pus'coo-^a'oo, Pis'seth'cre-hin, Ke-pay-tow-in, Ke- Pay-tar tin, Evening. To lend. To borrow. Names of a canoe. } Stern of a canoe. Any thing new or not much used. A beaver dam. To cut anything out, as shoes, &c. I dream. Fat, melted and prepared. Fat animal. Listen to me. You hear me. I hear you. k»> \\ 270 APPENDIX (f). i^^ N^Ne-Pay-tah-sootif Ke-Pay-tahkf Ke-Pay-tahk-coo-wow, I hear myself. You are heard. ;VV •,'i „ _ ,- - I They hear you, (plural.) Ke-Patf'tahk-coO'Wow-uck, S ' i *\v ■■kUvnVk'A Pow-is-stick, Pe-choWf A waterfall. .(*Mi//6»itri= "A. long distance by land. A long distance by water. A long distance by ice. ..^^v A hummock of wood. A short distance. \ A lake broader than long. . ^ > A ghost, or skeleton. ' -.i '.\ Morpheus, or the God of Dreams. A shooting-place ; i.e. awaterfalK practicable for boats to go down. Shoal water. ; , . Diy, or little water. Pim-mah-gam-mah-hummockf Canoes crossing a lake or river obliquely, N'Ne-Pee-kis-curtain, I am uneasy. t,^*^-. Pee'kis-kah-tethe-tah'gun, The case is melancholy. Ke-Pait-twah-tin, 1 have brought it you. Ke-Pait-tah-hoo-twah-tin, I have brought it you by water. Pe-tahk-ho-gun, Pe- tis-quon-my'gow, Pus-quas-qua-ow, Pay-soo-sin, Pim-mith-e-hick'OO'mow, Pah-kahk, PoW'Woggatiy Pe-wee-tog'gun, Parqua-sin, Parquow, Ke-Pait-lah-hoo-toW'in, Pemass-sue, Pimiss-scow, Peen-me-gun, Peemotv, Pak'tuce, N'Ne-Puk'kis-cah-iaih, Pis-Hn-nah-tis'Sue, Piis-ke-thahk, Ne-Pus-kc'thak-gan, Pay-pay-me'tah-che'fnoo, Pem-oo'tah, You have brought me something. To sail. To paddle. i,^v,4.^ii; Crooked-grained wood. Crooked. Afterwards. I am unhappy. Mischievous. To excel, He is excelled. I have excelled. To crawl. To walk. ■A 'XA. I. er. ng. \ of Dreams, a waterfalK [o go down. ike or river r water, something. ■^i«ji ^ ■i'i.'fc'. U'.~- ed. .> 1 -i^: ■ ." "5V i' LArr aGE of the cree Indians. 271 Pe-mo-at'iah-mick, To ride. Pim-me-thow, To fly. Pepoon, Winter. Pepurisue, To winter. Also the name of a winter>bird. U*-Pe-pun-is-sin, Pe-mah-iak'gas-gun, Pah-mah' ta-gow, Pah'coo-pa^f Pay-coo-pay, Pan-nis-swow, I wintered. To go on the ice. To go Into the water — deep. To walk ditto— shoal. To rome up after diving. To split meat. Pm-sah'WOWt To split wood, and work it with a hatchet. N'gah'Pus-sa-higgant I will go and sit down and split some wood. PtA-pe-tues-is-se-nah'gun, Variety. Pus-sah-qua-pue, To shut the eyes. Pus-pah-pue, To look through, or peep. Pus-pah-pue-wint A window. Pun-mis-cah-tayoo, To go to a house any distance in winter. Puak-pee'tu/ay-lin, Missing fir j. Pwas-tow-we-mah-tway-tayoOf Hanging fire. Pwas'towe-we, Pah'ke-tit-tow, Pay^catch, Pet'tah, Pah'too-mah, Pah^ue, Pah-pisk, Pah-p'm-nah-ne'Woo, Ke-Pah-pe-pin, Ke'Pah-pi-hittan, Poo-see, Pim-mah-hum-moah, Pemah' tissue, Pe-mah-tts-se-win, Pe'fnak-che- how, Tedious, Not quick. To let fall. Slow. Thirst. By-and-bye. Laugh. A great laughter. Very laughable. You laugh at me. I laugh at you. To set off by water. Flying towards the sea-shore. Living, Still alive. Longevity. Any thing that promotes life. To bring to life. tjh^ .z'' 1 H' ;i k. '0 ■ ■' ' : i I ...^^^w I ! ' i \ ^•1 ': 1 „ . i r >" - » i ■ n ' ' 1 ',. l:-.- 1 1' ' t»- V \\ 272 APPENDIX (f). Peth-coo-wow, To penetrate. Puck-queth-qua-sue, To let blood. Pah-coo-moo, To vomit. Pah-puthe-tow, To bring up any thing accidentally swallowed. Pis-se-quah-tis'Sue, Pee-his-quay , Pah-mit-tis-saw-WQW, Peway-pisk, Pah-pus-qua-hum, Ka-Pah-tis-sue, Pis-uSf Pee-tah, . Pit-tah, Pitche-cooy Ne-Pit-chin, Ne- Pus-cay-wan, Ne-Pus-ccy-pitchin, Pus-ca, Pus-cay-tah, Mischievous. To sing, or make a noise. To run after any thing. Iron, Almost all kinds of metal. Breaking-up of lake-ice. Doll, Not clever. v To doubt. .^ Any thing that frustrates a design. Stop. To move about frona one place to another. I have moved. I parted. To part company, A party taking different routes. x\^\ To part with a companion by dittos To tear with the mouth. V Pah-pow-wah-hah, or Poo-two^ivah, Shake it. Pah-ke-puthee, A 8V»elling. \ Pay-nass, or Pach-nass, Com£ for if. V Qui-usk, Straight, In a direct litie. Ne-.Qui-usk-queth-eten, I have fixed my mind, or come Ut n'^ I"! a determination. • 'l Ke-Qui-usk-co-mitten, Candidly. o^m..*.. Qua-pah-kay, or Qua-pah-hah, Dip a drink. Qua-pah-hum-mow-in, Dip me a drink. Qua-pah-hum-nah-sue, Dip a drink yourself. (^ua-pak-hum-motv-win-nan. Dip us a drink. Ques-ke-tai, The other side. Ke-Qui-ske-queth-e-tin, You have come to a determination. ■■,.#,flft.^X sij-V "**■*• n»'- «^ **,=.^» ^ 1* swallowed. of metal, c. tes a design. i to aDother. party taking tion by ditta h. \ \ de. or come t0 ;'= ... . •'•i rterminatioft. LANGUAGE OF THE CREE INDIANS. 2/3 Sepun, Sepen-nay-oc, Sow-wit h-coo-sue, Oo- Sow-wow i Oo-Sow-us-quow, Ta-na-Sin-ne-cow-take, Soo-sow-wow, Sug-goo, Sug-gow, Sack' ka- higgan, Ke-we-Sah-wan-ne-how, Sem-mahk, Sack-ke-hoWf Sacke-how-e-wak- bah-ne. Strong. Strong in health. Not easy killed. Bloody. Yellow. Green. What is the name of it } Smooth. Thick, One after another. Thicket of woods. A lake. You do not use him well. At first. ' ^ I love. If I had loved. Sack-ke-how-wahk-oo-punny, If we had loved, If they had loved. Sack-ke-hitch-che, Sack-ke-huck-ke, Sack-ke-fusk-kee, Sack-ke-hit-too-uck, Sack-ke-hit-too-nan, Sack-kee, Sack-ke- kin Ke- Sack-ke-hitten, Ke-Sack-ke-hick, Ke-Sack-ke-kiek-wucky Ke-Sack-ke-howy If she loves her or him. I If I love her. They love each other. Loving each other. Love. Love me. I love you. He loves you, or You are loved by him. They love you. You love him. Ke-Sack-ke-hick-coo-woWi He loves you both. Ke-Sach-ke-hittan-now-wow, I love you both. Ke-Sack-ke-kin-now-wow, You both love him. Ke-wee-Se-gan-nis-qua-pis-sin, You want to pull my hair. Se-gan-nis-qua-pisy Pull his hair. See-tap-pah-quan, A tent made with leather. Soak-etke-tunty Obstinate. Sa-sah-gis-sue, > Stingy. Suthe-an, • Any kind of coin, A medal. \v 274 .flVfft^ APPENDIX (f). 11 u '"Hi i! : !i Sulhe-an-ahpishf The metal of which any coin is made. 8oo-Sow-wah-piskf Any smooth stone. Sepah, Underneath. Sepayow, Hollow, like a bridge. Sa-cooleht It must be so. Ke-Sack-cooch-e-hiUeHf I overpower you. Sah'puaw-pow-waj/f Wet through. \ Sah-paw-pwow'we'nah- gwun. Any thing that has a wet look. Sak'puaw'pum'e'nah'gwun, Transparent. See^coo-win, Spittle. Soakc'sue, Strong wood. \ Sag-gU'WoWi Narrow. Taniia'twe'Un, . What do you say i ■h Tan-na-tway'UHi What do I say? i Tan-na'twU, What does he or she say > h Tan-natwit-twow, or Tanna'twitch-khf } What do they say > h Tlhhis-cow, Nighr. N'Tit-tah'pah'tmn, I dreamed. Tah'nah'twan-nickf What is the meaning of it? Ta-bith-e-tah, Tho-theth-e-tah, \ You direct. N'Took-e-moatk, - My chief. N'Tut'tah-min-na'Wow, I overtook or came up with him. Tah-nah-the-coke, What distance ? i:. Thah-than-nahf To swim. A* Thow-we'tiahrgun, A long distance, but in sight fomeUmes. Ke-took-e-maam-in-noWf Our chief. N'Taa-tah'gcU-Hs'Soon, I think I am not sufficient for the task. TAo-M-coif, Soft. Tho-skeg'gan, Soft skin. Well dressed. Tay-pofi/t Call. Tay-poiSf Call him. Tii-Un, To open. ,^ - coin is made. I a wet look. V iy> -^-* ^it? with him. lometimet. or the talk. LAXGUAOE OF THE CREE INDIANS. 275 To-kap'puet Ke-Tah-hah-ee-moWt Tah'nak-tah'CO'mMt, Tan'na-tah-co-tnisk, Tah-nail- te-gowauy To open the eyes. You adopt him. In what line of relationship do you hold him ? In what line of relationship does he hold you } What is my name ? or. What am Tah-nait- te-gow-we-en, Tah-na-sin-ne-cau-soO'ifent Tah-na-sin-ne-caw-swa-any What is my name ? I called? \ What is your name ' -•jA. Tah-na-sitt-ne-caw-sool, Tah-hutch-e-tow'in-nah, N''Tah-butrteth-emow, . I think him, or it. useful. Jt ->'t 'i Tow-weg, Ke-Tis'qua-how'Uck, Ke-Tis-coo-now, Tkk-cuck, Tah-to, Than'tah-to, Tahn-a-tus'se-chick, Tahn-a'iah-lin'e'thickt What number were there ? Tahn-tU"takee,.'l Tahn-a-teshe- turn-man. What do I think ? ' Tahn-a-teshe-tum-me-wonnif, Whatever you think or have } What is it's name } Tools, Utensils. I think him, or it, useful. The middle of a skin. You killed a great many. You left some. . All of them. , The number. What number ? Tuck'-ke-coom, Tethe-cootn, Tuck'oo-sin, Tah-pa-tah-hum-moakt Taheth-a-way, Ta-bUh-was'SUtf Tah'H'Sue, thought. Phlegm. Nostril. To arrive by land. Flying low. Real. Possessed of property. The behaviour of a perscm. 't -i6eiJbaBfc.f 276 APPENDIX (f). Hi '^^. ill To'is-pis-sue, Tus'Stuow, Tah-cvocht Tus-tow-widge, Ke-keppah-Tow-a-gan, Tah-but-tis-sue, Tah-na-tah-liut-tis-sue, N'-Tah-coo-siriy Good-iiiatured. Straight. Above, Uppermost. Middle, Between. Your ears are sloped. Useful. For what use ? I am ill. Ke-Tith-e-wee-cah-pow-wis'tow-wow, You are taller than him. Ke-Tap-pe-se-si-sin, You are little. Ke-Tay-ack-qiMtit'ethe-mittani I have a great opinion of him. Tay-poo-pay-oo, N''Tay-poo-pan, Tip-pah-hum, Tip-pah-higgan, Ke- Tow-we-hah-soon, Ki-Tul-tow-wan, Kit-Tut-tah-mittartt Ke-Tus-tum-mah-tin, Satisfied with drinking. I am full of liquor. To pay. To measure. Ameasure^ A rule. You borrow. You trade. I trade with you. I hinder you. Ke-Tit-lwes-tum-mah-tin, I am your interpreter. Ta-ow-wedge, A word used by way of confirmation. Ta-tow-wedge, The middle. Tow-weidge, Far from the shore. Us-to-gum-moOt Utch-chahk, Un-ne*mdht Un-to-wappun, Uh-tah-meek, Uh-tah-mus-cum-meek, Us-kee, Us-kee-ahf Us-keek-wah Us- keek, Us-too-thoo, Still water. A star. That. J Make use of your eyes. Look well for him. Underneath. Under ground. A country. , ^ Moss. Lead. A kettle. To build canoes. Her than him. ion of him. 1 LANGUAGE OF THE CREE INDIANS. 2,*/? j Us-tay-boot 1 Sober. Us-pah'che-gun, An ingredient or sauce, as pravy to beef> Us-puHis-ewin, Payment. " Us-put-lis-sin, Pay me. Uttow'way, To trade or barter. Vttah-muckt Inside. Um-misk, A beaver. "^. Um-mish-wy-an, A beaver's skin. Us-skah-tie, A green fur-skin, or undressed skin. Up-pwooy, Paddle. ffhh-ha'wun, Weak. Wappun, Daylight. IVdppas'Sue, An ea rly riser, One who rises by daylight. Wee-ke«, What used to be. JFeggee-moggan, Mate, (a person that lives in the same tent.) confirmation. w'ell for him. Wiggce, Place of abode. Nis-tais-lf^eggee-mah-gun, He lives with my elder brother. IVieggee-wow, mthin, Wee-thin'Tioo, Wah-thou, Wah-thoue, Wappow, IVap-pick'Oo-moWf fybtv-we-ick-oo-mow, Wappusk, Wah-he-nog-gan, IVus-qui, Ke- Wan-nay -too-UiW-woWf Wah-gow, Wee-lah, Ifee-tutii'tnoWf Their dwelling. Fat in its patural state. Fat (as a fat animal), Fat meat. A great distance. • A hollow or vacuum. Narrow part of a lake, where the two shores almost meet. ^ A narrow lake. A round lake. . A white bear. Jumper. Birch. • \. You do not use him well. Crooked. TeU it. Tell him. ^ I !i iM> ^ • I tTee-rup'potv, Nt-Wee-rup^pany fft'ihuH-e-taggay, fFe-lhun-e-how, ffalhow-nah-gun, Wet-cheg'gUHf Wo-waudgHt Kee-IVappin, fVy-aisy Ke- fVah-co-moWt Ke- fFe-way-a-se-min, We-co-too-nah-me-woot Weeth, ffif-this'sue, Was'cahy ffTu'cah'higgan, Was-keigt fTe-ttg-ge-toWf 1Vun-ny-hovy APPENDIX (f). > He wants to sleep. Diqointing and cutting u^ an animal. To cut up. To diijoint. Any thing aeen far off. Stink. Alio. Yoa aee. Something. You call him your relation. You hinted to deceive roe. To feast. Feasting. Name it, Mention its name. Mention your own name. Around. A house. The edge of a skin. Not to be frugal, To be wasteful. To loose, Lost. Ne-IVan-eth-etum-mow-micky He makes me at a loii whit to say. fFan-eik-etum, He is quite at a loss. Was-tai-ab'bel, Light eyes. We-thcgre-qmyt Dirty face. Wowtve-ec-quay, Round &ce. ^ Wow-we-egse-nah'goo'Sttef Droll looking. Wo-we'et'tia-suet Ke- Wo-we-ase-Httan, N^'Wo-.tve-etwan^ Wee-kee, WuUhee, Wah'gis-cow, A funny person. I was jesting with you. I spoke it in jest. Accustomed AhiU. Any thing that benda well, ^ • • LANGUAGE OF THE CREE INDIANS. 279 < ^ NffTap-pah'tin, Ne-Wap-puh-tith-kk^ I law it. It wai shown to me. ng up it. Was'du'sue, To appear bright with the reflection of the lun. Wah'thoutt Hollow, like an empty nut-ihell. fyow'we-ah-sue, The full moon. ^s' ■ ' fyoW'Wt-a'ntet Round. tyas-cum-mis-suet Not intoxicated, Sober. mu-kitch, Outside. ; Wes-kutcht tTee-sin-now, Formerly. Castorum. ation. ) roe. Wee-pus-cow^ Wan-nah'scootcht Wenne-pegt Burnt wood, lying on the ground. The end, edge, or extremity. The sea called by that name ; also a lake. name. me. . M MTitteful. ON whit to I. reU. THB END. R.WATM, Printer, Crown Court, Tem/ile Sar.