^, ^f^^- X?- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ,-% ^ t 1.0 I.I 11.25 itt ^ 12.2 IS 1^ 12.0 UUU llllm U IIIIII.6 S^ J^ 7, V Pk)tograph]c Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145*0 (716)872-4S03 ,^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian institute for Historical Microreproductions / institut Canadian de microreproductions historlquas iV Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a iti possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. D D D D n n D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie et/ou pellicuMe Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured inic (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que blaue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Relii avec d'autres documents D Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur □ Pages damaged/ Pages endommag6es □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restauries et/ou pelliculies r~V^Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Lkj Pages dicofories, tachetdes ou piqudes I I Pages detached/ B Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence I I Quality of print varies/ Quality inigale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppi^mentaire D Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouttes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte. mais, lorsque cela itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6ti film^es. Ef D D Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure. etc., ont M film6es d nouveau de fa^on d obtenir la meilleure image possible. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires; Irregular pagination : [3], i-xiii, [11, [25] - [368], 371-[382], 385-[390j, 393-517, [5] p. Wrinkled pages may film slightly out of focus. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmi au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hat been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: L'exemplaire fiimA fut reproduit grAce A la g^n^rositA de: •Is du difier jne lage Library Indian and Northarn Affairs The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. BibliothtqiM Affairas indiannet at du Nord Les imsges suivantes ont 4t4 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet* de I'exempiaire filmA, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimAe sont filmte en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmfo en commen9ant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols -^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmte A des taux de reduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, 11 est f ilmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. rata 3 elure. M5]p. 3 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 *"-♦. # ,;rt* bii K. K KANE ■t -^ .»' m .-«»■ **- 1 1 1 -. # i \ ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS AltD DISCOVERIES 1 DURING THE NINSIXENTII GfeNTUBT. nma nnAiuDi&oooinnt or .■f THE SEVERAL EXPEI>ITiOI$ J -i.,-^ BOM, PABBT, BACK, VBAmLm, lf*GLI7BB ABB OTVMBS. ■ ♦ INCLVDIHO THE TOi^r (s^llIKKEIX EXFEDITtOH, VVMB UBUVUI AXT Ml HATBir, Am IHB ■'■»■-' TINAL EFFORT OF DR. E. K. K JlNB "^ 8EA8CH OF SIR JOHN FRIUnCUK. % JCDITJBD AND OOBEFLBXED SAMUEL M. SMUCKER«^. M., Avnom OF ** oovB* Aim Biteir «r oiXRainni n.,** ** amoiiAa t," ** ■oumi n navcB Hmovr,'* ** birobt ov nn mwiwiw," iml '#' NEW yOEK: C. M. SAXTON, 25 PARK ROW. 1869. ,«;"i^^-1 f * n > f nm^-jwi't' . I HOrHFR?^ a;' AIRS JUL 20 igso Northern Affairs Li^iy OTTAWA * t< Entand Meordioff to Ast of CongMM, In £b« ^mt on* t^—md tl^ hondNd and llftyHWTvn, BTMILLBB, OBTONAOO., % In Um Ctakli Offloeof th« DMriet Court of fbe Nflrth«m DiaMot of Ntw Tort.- *«-■. ;t; ai-siv ai'J '. M'>0!ff"*«' PBEFACE. Tbx records of nmitime adventure and diaoorerj oooi ititnte one of the most attractive pages in Hteratnre. Nearly three thousand years before the birth of Ohrist, the bold Tyxians and Fhoenidans deserted the confines of their native continent to explore new realms, and to ob- tain firom the then unknown land of Spain, the means of augmented splendor, Itizary, and wealth. From that re* mote period, down through succeeding ages until the present, the most enterprising and dawtless of human spirits have found their congeiual field of labor and ac- tivity in adventuring into- untrodden and unfiimiliar re ^ons in search of riches, celebrity, and conquest. • It was this spirit which has in the past given birth to many great states 9^ empires. It was this spirit which planted Garthag#on the northern shores of Afirica, and eventually rmdered her the dangerous and not unworthy lival of Rome. It was this spirit which built Marseilles, Aries, Nismes, and many of the most important cities of m iw miO'P^ IV PBKFAOR. \ France, which contain to this day impressive monuments of Roman origin and Hapromaoy. It was this spirit which made England pass iuccessively under the resistless sway of her Roman, Saxon, Danish, and Korman conquerors^ But more «apeoiaUy was it this Mstlsss and insatiable genius of advei^iire which or«IMd Hio greitness of the chief marltiiiiyitici^ ice, as well as that of the kingdom e^B^trtiigalind Spain. To this same desire for disoovery the worUtls indebted for the glorious achievements of Columbus, Vespucius, and De Soto ; and for the revdMon of the magnificent novelties and unparalleled beauties of these western con- tinents, ladened with the most valuable treasures and products of the earth, which they threw open to the \ knowledge and the possession of mankind. After the discovery of the American continents, and »£• terthe thorough exploration of the Southern and Pacific oceans, it was generally supposed that the materials for further adventures of this description had all been ex- hausted. The whole habitable globe seemed then to have been made accessible and ^miliar to men, both as apostles of science and as emissaries of commerce. It was thought that the era of maritime discovery, the days >of Yasco de Gkuna, of Marco Polo, and of Sydney, had ended forever. But this supposition was eiToneous. One additional field of this description yet remained. It was indeed a gloomy and repulsive one. It was totally de- void of the attractive and romantic splendors which in other days had allured men to ssolitthrough tranquil oceans to fragrant islands, which bloomed like gardens on the bosom of summer seas ; or to continents whidi were covered with th<^. richness of tropical vegetation and Iux9. )t~ IBKVAOIC. rianoe, uid wer& itored with gpioetf gold, «nd gm& But it waa • field which demanded greater heroiam, greater endnranoe, and waa fraught with greater perfls, than tsaj other departBient of diaooTerj. Thia region lajihr np toward the Northern Pole. It waa the yaat firoaen land of everlaating anow-fielda, of itnpendona ioe-bergs, of h jperborean atorms, of the long, cheerless nights of the Arotio Zone. To nangate and explore these dismal realms, men of extreme daring, of sublime fortHnde, of unconquerable perseyeranoe, were absolutely necessary. And such men possessadne great element of distinguish- ing greatness, of whionlnir explorers of more genial and inviUng climes were destitute. Their investigationa were made entirely without the prospect of rich reward, and chiefly for the promotion of the magnificent ends of Boienoe. The discovery of a north-western passage waa indeed not forgotten ; but it must be conceded that other less mercenary and more philanthropic motivet have ^ven rise to the larger portion of the expeditions which, during the {progress of the nineteenth century, have in- vaded the cheerless solitudes of that dangerous and re- pulsive portion of the globe. The following pages contain a narrative of the chief adventures and discoveries of Arctic explorers during this century. No etpe^tion ^ilany importance hai been omitted^^ «nd the #6rk lias beei|^brou|;ht down iti iis de- tails ;t^,^||feft present Isune, so as io indude a safisfitetory aocolmt of t|ie labors, sufferings, and trinnq>ha qf that prince of Arctic eiflorers and philanthropiBti^ Dr. Kane ; whose adventures, and whose able narrative of them, en- title him to fadeless celebrity, both as a hero in the field, and as a man of high genius and scholarship. n PBETACI. Srery rMder who oareftilly penues the following pg* gefl miut be oonvinoed that the Arotic hemisphere hM now been thoronghly explored. Every aooeenble ipoi has been visited and examined by some one or other of the various expeditions wliich have been sent oat ; and that vast extent of oountries and of seas whioh niterveoe from Smith's Sound and Wolstenholme Sound in the ex- treme east, being the remotest northern limits of Ghreen- land, to the westward as far as to Behring*s Straits, which divide America from Asia, has been examined. These limits indose an area of about ^om^ thousand miles, every attainable portion of which hasloeen subjected to the scmtmy of recent Arotic explorers. It can scarcely be ex- pected that any traces of the existence and fate of Sir John Franklin still remain on the globe, whioh further perse- verance and research could possibly reveal. Even if the great chapter of Arctic discovery and adventure should now be dosed, it will constitute one of the most remark- able and entertaining departments of human heroism, enterprise, and endurance, which biogn^hy or history presents. iJ4.i;*;ii*%.:/L£-ft»'A;^i-i. i-6i(»->r**r;-., i'^W.-- *«-• IRiii i»--': J-J,*^. *t*» ^m t*y,M$>*m ** «^*ft'i«- ^. OOXTBITTS, UMtolnaim«rtlMAntleSi«lQa^lloaMora«t Ihipi^ V«gng*-fteiy't Mt Ftaaklta't opiniolu on « mnrthwMt pMMff»— AlMtraot of Hr 7«hB Bairow'i wwktiM Arctle Dtwiwr y — Bni^Mitf • m^tai^ hwr —■ Meal hwow. Cnptoin Sir John Row'* yojil||r in th« Inbelk and Al«sand«r ta HodaoD'8 Bay in 1818 17 Munmof ttw oBcew Mid M fti- B M y vhitol bf ttM aativM of OrMohad-AVaB* daiiM of birds on thk eOMfe— Ctato of wind^Rcd aiow— LanoMtor loaad— Th* Mmp looi fktHtm ■BowiNhM ignw monamwit— Liggo bow ■boC^BaCwn hono. Voyage of Bnchan and Franklin in tbe Dorothea and Trent, to » Spitzbttfgen, A§rs 4ay»-At last gain the Atlantis MddWIcs flnr bilmdr ClaTering*s Voyage to Spitzbeigen and Greenland in the Griper, 1833 ; 126 vConTsys out Oq>t Sabine to make observations— Beach SpHdnr g MH- ft a c aedflwnct . , to Fmdulom Islands— Northeastern coast of Greenland surveyed— Captain davering WBAapaHgr of niaalsen men carry on an exploring ttpedition fk# a ibrtnlghl— Mm wlllr« tribe of Bsqoimanx— Ship pots to sear-Mtdce ibr the coast Of NorwMy^Andior In DrontheimHord— Observations being complo||Adi^ returns to England. Lyon's Voyage in the Griper,. 188 Is sent to survey and examine the straitp and 4uMres «f Arctic Americ*— Arrives in the diannel known a^ Roe's Welcome— Encotmters a Urriflo gale— Is in imminent Jsa* ger in the Bay of God's Mercv— SofSnrs firotii anotl)er.fiawrful storm— Tbo sh

reary oh awL Hj fc jf the arctic winter— Former aiiiusenients worn tlaead b a r e ■ F ciar Bd. SftM^pxfJMnp— Exploring parties sent out inland and akng the c o a st S h ips aro ttUtm^mt beset bv the toe, and carried by the paek down tiw inlet— iFury driven oa shors SJaWbandoned— Return voyage necessarihr determined on— Scarcity of animal Ibod in this locality— Hecla arrives at FMerhead— Fanry's opinions of the nwrtbwssl Franklin's Second Land Expedition, 1825-26 187 MMiaes of the oAcen aecompanying him— Arrive in Mew Tork and proceed through the Hudson's B$j Company's territories— Winter' at Fort FrankUn on Great Bear . Lako— A pioneer partjy proceeds to evunine the state of the PMar Sear-Return and paas tiie long winter— Descend tiie Maekmixie in the wpriag—'Btxtr divide ; Franklin and Back proceeding to the westward, while Dr. Richaruon and Mr. Kendal, &o, ftaOow the Coppermine River— Franklin encounters a fierce tribe of Esqidmaux at the ssft— Aftw amonth's survey to iiie eastward, IVankHn and his party retrace their steps —jnttA BIdiiardson and Kendal had retornd before tbein, after readiing and ex^t^ ing DotoUn and Union Strait— Another winter spent at Fort Fhuddin— IMenaity ».^11iO Blossom ptooeeds to -the Padfle, to repleniafa her proviaiooa— Returns to Kotsebui' Sound in ttw summer— Ship grounds on a sand-banic, but is got off— Boat ssnt outte learn ti^Bngs of Franidiii, is wrecked— Grew oome into. oolUtion witii hostlli iwtt«siL< s|^arf jronndfdinMiM np by the ship— iMspatehes left Ibr FratAUn, aat tkS^^ 00;5iTBNTa. IX .lUl .Its .130. ..137 £ -XV .140 wnt— kt« with -TlM (otxebnp lit out to P«ny'« Fourth or Polar Voyage in tUe Hecla, 1827 , ,.i44 Plans and uaggaMima of Scoreiby, Bcaufoy imd Franklin for InnraUiui 9a siadga* over tta* ice — Names of the ofltcera employed— Ship emborlu reindeer on the Norw^ anart FniiiiiaBTiri • tanmandoua gale Beaat bf io* for a moath.>hAneh«r8 at Bpita* bergea Medge-boata prepared for the ice JourBey— Deaoriptioa — Furnish very correct aketehea of the coast Oo mnwnd e r Jamea Boaa makea many excursiena inland and along tho bam ;«nd Inleta— Explores BoasTs teait, and puahcs on to King WiMiam'a Land— DUB< •lu^ of distinguishing land ftomiaa F -Beaohea Point VicttHry and tuma back— Ship Kta'dear of t&e ice, after eleven months* impriaonment, but in a week is again fToaen , and the party are detained during another severe winter— Further discoveries made^ and Oommander Boss plants the BraiA fine on the north magaettb polo— In Auguat, 1831, the ship is vrarped out, and nudces sau, but after beating about for a month, ia •gain flroaen in ; and rather than spend A fourth winter, there being no prospect of releasing tha sh^ she to abandoned, and the crew make for Fury Beach- Providona and bom taken on with great latwr— Par^ erect a canvaa hut, which they name Bom- eraet House— In a month, the boata being prepafred for the voyage, tho fixtj embark, and reach the mouth of the inlet— Barrow's Btiyt is found one compact maaa of lo»— Thaty ar« obliged to foU back on the stores at Fury Beach to mnd their fourth winlar— Placed on shwt aUowanoe— In the qtringtheyagidn embiri|ln their boatyind wic oae d In reaching Unoaater Bound— FaO in vriOi whalers— Are :^miv«d «a bdarOia laabeHa, Captain Boaa'a old sl^»— Arrive home— PnbUc rcjoidnga for their •p#9lE.B«mrda granted— BoaonMKrf Captain J<4m BoasTa services. "^i^v. Captain Back's Land Journey in search of Boss, 1833-34 168 Attention oaDed t# "^e massing expedition by Dr. Bichardaon— Plans of relief sog- Eed— PttbUc meeting held to consider the beat meaaures— Ample Ainda raised— dv** k volunteers— Leaves England with Dr. Kini^Voyageuraand j|uide«{&o., engaged in Canada^Pkrty push through ttib northwest country— Dreadfol sumringa from taisect pists— Bearh Fort Besolntion, on Great Slave Lake— Motley deser^tion of tho tvavelm and th^ encampment— Arrangementa are completed, and the Journey ki search of the Great Fish Biver cmnmenced— Frightftd nature of the precipiea8» nq>- tdi, flJb, ravinaa, &c.— Meet with old aoqnaintancoa— OI>Uged to return to thnr winter quarter*— Dreadflol suffieringa of the Indians — Famine and intense cold — Noble conduct of AkaifclM^the jndian chief- Newa reoeisod of Captain Boae'a safo return to Eni^d — FranUia's flAthfVil Esquimaux interpreter, Auguatus, endeavoring to Join Back, is Croxaa ta death— A firesh -Journey toward the sea is resolved on— Provisions for three mo^tbs taken— Indian encampment— Oreon Btocldngst tlie beauty— Interview with the chin, Abaitrl>o— Arduous and periktus progress towardthe sea— PUforing propensi- ties of tha Ittdi^uia— Meet with a large friendly tribe of ssquimaux— Beach tlie sea, andprocaed aloni the coast to the eastward, unable to arrive at the Point Tumapdn 3t VraaffldSn— FUvatfona of the parte on their return Journey— Difficultiea enoouatwred fin re-asceading the river— Beach Fort Beliance after four montiia' abaenco— Paaa the winter thera— Captain Back arrives in England in September, after an abaenco of tvro |*ir4 and a hal^^lte. Idbg. foltowB bim in the Hudson Back's Voyage in the Terror up Hudson's Strait, 1836 186 '■-HBUp arrives at Salisbury bland— Procoada up Frozen' Strait— ts blocked up by tho lee, and driven about poworieva for more than six months— Cast on her beam enda BM '- tir aa'd h yt''" Fro m dni etimMt sfat« of the ship and the insurmounUble difficulties Tf tha navigation, the return to England is determined on— Summary of Captain Back's ar«>tic services. *•■ r^ o uri: B N 1* s . i Mnsra Dease and Siflopaon's DiaooTCfloi on fhe ooact ofAretoa. AnAriw, 1886-ajr, „....4aT DwcMd flM liMluwris to Om M»~San«y «lM WMl«ra f«« «r Om rtiovw ar llarik 4iimui» item IMnrn BMf to Owe Barrow— Diibwrar two mw rtawM, tketery •ad CMvlUe— Aftav rMching BlMm Bay, ratom to wliitor at Foet CaoMaaea, «ir1lNM« Baar T■ C eaat anrTBir toihe laatwatii i j^Mto* cuted-Hnmpion'a Strait diacovered— Back'a l^atiurj reached— Uepoait of preiwdoiia made bf Baokfhra jeara preriona, ftnmd— Aberdei^ SliaBd, ilia ememApdat MaclMd — Barta of eoeata of Bootbia and Victoria Land traced— One of tba boataifaaadmiJ*— Daaeent of the Coppermine, and aalb arrival at fbtt Confldance. pr. JoBn Bee's Land Expedition, 18l6-4'7 ., fludaon'a-Bi^ Oooapanj diqpatoh Baa and a party of thirteen men to ■arref hetweenDeaaeandSfaanaon^fttrthaa^and the Fury and Beda ( dition leaiea Ftot Chnrehin— iCiaehea Waner Bivar— Boeta taken MToaa Bae'a Tatiimaa Weat ahore or MaMBe Penfaiiala, •^Winter reddeaoe oonatroctad— Short 40., examined— Farty retnm to their enoam] Otatoiiy of £4M awarded to Xkr. Bae. it^ and pro e e a d to VoatCharehilk- 0«»tMii Sir Jolin Fnmklin'B Last Expedition in tile Er^iui iluiii' Tertw, 1845-51 ....,...|p6 SrolNdiilili^ of tlie aaftiar of tlie ezpeditien— MoolMnMry^ Snea on tBe- imp rtw u ed enthodaam— Veraee— Heir apneat to the horOi— laaaiili Taifr Franldin'a devotion and enl •far B. Bm>^a Imiralty— Report of the Inrdrogrftpher—Jt^dTice tendered by UtotB conaulted— Viewa of Mr. Snow and Mr. McLaan— PaMio and pttnito vaii»arda omred fbr diacovery and aaaiatance to be rendered— Second refMrt of Adiniral Baaofbrt to the Lotda Oommiaaiattera of the Adniralbr-^VMrioaa }>rMPfad dSSnli letteraand diapat d liea^ pointfatr out, or commentbig on plana and moctea of rwef— VlbundUwa of aaliBaai IbM fbund in the arctic regiona— A ba^lld of Sir Johh Ft'anUlii. The Oot^iunentand private Searcbing Expeditions. .ilBl LW of tiie veaaala and oommaBdera, fte., new emphiyad on th* aaardi in the wptta wg i o aa N oticea of tlioae returned hwne. Yoyai^ of the Enterprise ai|d Inrestigator nnder Oisptains Sif J'. 0, Rossand B. J. Bint 1848-49 ......,-„... ♦,..*..381 MHBea of flie ofBewe emfteyed in tfab- etpedWo n — S iil p a arrire at UpB a cna yfcK— Proceed on their T oya g e J ftwee a 'paaaage nkroiigh tiie iea— BnteiT minm^MWt^A— After beina driven about in the pack, take aheltor fyr the wlnte^ in tlie harbor Ofl'brt LeMtold^arveyinff tripa earried on down flM inlet, and riMind Oft nffird^evii &d weetam aboreH of Bnothia— VIoxee traaped and libamted with edpyar deOaril MHVhry open vrater-Beaet by tha looee pack, and fhe temperature MBtag, the wifiab body of lee la ibrroed into one aoUd maaa, and the ahipa are driltad with the fii^Ulo jfiflh'a Bay— The return to jBngland determined on— Oittliae of Stt Junea BOaa*i irdaoua tervioer in the polar regiona. _. Vojnffe of the transport, North Sti^ 18^ *... .*i.« ^JNO liaaiaa of the oOeanor (ha abip— OOdiddinatdi ttati Oa ■? «**.*■» *+v. inv' •. w* 4«»S * .193 a .381 4N0 •'•r'ti- eOMTSKTB. b«et io MB loe-AOd In the BortlMni pwt or ■•flta/* : dfty*— Wintei k te Wolitoiibobiw 8o«nd— QMrth ef MifaMto tliiri gMp ftto timt vt ice and miikea ftw T^ineuter Sonad— The XmUt T^nakHn and Vriix ere laokM i*ld»— Befaic prewnted bjr the ide flrom rMehibilf Iwrt Bowen or Vmt Keil^ the nrofUoaa triteaootte the MorthawMT^ieadediitHwyBoeKd later !»■■»■ the Priaee Albert — B*«eivee dtivetchee tot £nste&d— Betunu home CmnteiMT flevadeneppotated tolUttaDoek-Twd. Second voyage of Ae EDtirpriM and ItiTertigator nnidor Oaptahi CoUiuaonand Oommander H'OInre, 1%M>... ^.294 Names of oQeen att adtedato the aUp*— Eo«diaa«K hi terpretw wpe to hid to the iBterpriie— VeaaA airrive afrUM BmMch Idaade—EureMed MmUmm^jja*} oianders of the Teaiela— Shipe veaoh B^tehu^s StraK-'Coimnvnioafle with^p Herald and Plorer-^Iateit dlipatchea of Captain Coiamon and Commander BfCtare— roaJtJQO ef their Ships. 7oytt« Q& the PloYer, imd Boat Expedittona under Comnmnoer Men, 1848^51 W.. .307 Purport of inatnuiioiH iMMdltroai the Adnlral^--(Riip arrina lii Bduriu's Strait to tiie north of ttie ttratt^Vtiten In Kotewae proeeed in boats akng tbeeoaat to the Ifaektnxie I's a^lpe— Letter from IJeiit Booper— Latest offi* intentions— Sir John Bkihardson's adrioe. •Diwovers newnandjoid idands Bound— Lieutenant Ptlien and River— No tidinga gleaned of «ial diqwtch from Commander Voyage of the Lady Fitaklin and Sophia, porehaaed jovMiimeni anipo^ tnder the command of Mr. Pminy. 319 Mature, of the instmotions giTeo— Mating Press si4>plied— 8h^ sail and rcadi Wotatenlwiaie Soond'-Pravented bj. the ice from exanuning Joaas' Sound Baiiili WeQingtoa Oiannel, and are left there Iqr tb^piK« Albert Voyage of the Beeolate and Aasiatance, Anstin, "c^ith their ateam tendera, Pi< Shipe'pWrehaaed and are renamed by the gov tions glrea to search WelUagton Channel, and push on to Aspatch from Gqitaia Omnansgp— MS. nelvspi^r started en board^ ExtHMrtar VoyM(e d 18^MU Sir John Boaa in tie Fefix private adiponer 31» • ' la fitted out bj the Hudson's Bay Company and private subeor^^tioii— Arrivaa at W^halefish lalandii^ and owsrtakes the Admnee and Besoloto— Vroeeede^ In company'— Esquimaux reports of the dsetr u c t lea of FrankUa's ships, and murder of the creui^~ Proved by inVeatig&dan to be devoid of lbundatk»-^LeMor of Sir John Boss to the Secretary <nveyanoe of the sicWAnoatokr-filedge Party— Perilous •drenture— Death oTChristian Qhlseu-rNorth Barn's Bay-rThe embaritatioii-rOiS^ # CONTENTS. xiii ll««It luivlgKtton— Mnrebtson ChMiael— Narrow eMape— Wear/ Mwi^s tU-glaet- Osp« York — Wut of proyislons — S««l hnnt — Cowt of Orctnluii Kayak— Disoonnging news— ArriTal at UperaaTlok— Captain Hartstena's l tloB in tbe Atetlo and the Relvaae— Adventuraaof that axpeditioB— Batorn to BAviek and diaooroy of Dr. Kane*a p)- *ty— Betnm to N«w Tork. *<-. j--^ -J* # i* .-'i *L # ^' '-t^i»«i^V*i>«.'. (.:S4v'-fci.'-l V-'-l* -■£*■'*'* Au- "4 TBM PROGRESS ? Of ARCTIC DISCOVERY HI TBB OTNETEEiTTH OENTUET. _ Ir W0 examine a map of Korth^rnf or Arctic, Amer- ioa, ehowing^wbat was known of tLe commies around the Koi^li JPole hi* th% commencement of theMient centiliy, w^ shall find that all within the Ar^lcircle was a complete blank. Mr. fieame had^ in^NH^ aeen the Aitsl^Slea in the year ITTl ; and Hr. Mackenzie had traced the river which now bears his name to its junc- tion with the sea r but not a single line of ^e coast from lay Cape to Baffin's Bay was known. The east- em and western shores of Greenland, to about 75^ lat- itude, w^ tolerably well defined, u'om the visits of whaling vessels; Hudson's Bay and Strait were pai^ tially known; but Baffin's Bay, iccording to the state- ment of Mr. Baffin, in 1616, was bounded by land on the west, running parallel witii the 90th meridian of longitude, or across what is now known to us as Bar- row's Strait, and probably this relation led to the sub- sequently, formed hasty opinion of Captain Sir John Ross, as to his visionary Croker Mountains, of which I |hall have occasion to speak hereafter. ^As early as the year 152^7, the idea of a passaffe to tlie East indies by the North Pole was suggested oy a Mi 26 PBOOKESS OF AKCriC DISCOVERT. Biiitol merchant to Henry VIII., but no voyage seems to have been undertaken for the purpose of navigating the Polar seas, till the commencement of the following century, when an expedition was fitted out at the ex- pense of certain merchants of London. To this attempt several others succeeded at different periods, and all of them were pfojeoted liud eari'ied into execution by private- individuals. The adventurers did not indeed accomplish the object they exclusively sought, that of reaching India by a nearer route than doubling , the Gape -ot Good m>p^, but though they failed m that respect, the fortitude, perseverance, and skill which they manifested, exhibited the most irrefragable proofs of the early existence of that^uperiority in naval af- fairs,- which has elevated thiT country to her present eminence amonff the nations of Europe. *At length, after the lapse of above a <^ntur;^ and a \ half, this inisresting .question became an object of Boyal patronage^ and the expedition which was com- mandtd by Captain Phippslanerward Lord Mulgrave,) in 1^1^) was ntted out at tne thafge of Government. I^e ll^ proposer of this voyage was the JBEon. Baines Bwi^lpon, F. B. S., whd; with indefatigable assiduity, began to collect every fact tending to establish the practicability of circumnavigating tne Pole, and as he accumulated his materials^ he read them to the Boyal Society, who, in consequence of these representations, made that application to Lord Sandwi^, then Pirst Lord of the Admiralty, which led to the appointment of this first official voyage. Captain Phipps, however, fi>tind it impossible to penetrate the wall of ice which extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80® and 81°, to the north of Spitzbe-f ea. His vessels were the Bacehorse and Carcass; Csptain Lutwidge being his second in command, in the U>tter vessel, and hav- ing with him, tlien a mere hoy, Kelson, the future hero of England. From the year 1648, when the flimous Bnssian m^h- gator, Sendr Deshnew, penetrated from the river iColyma through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, tb^ ♦ w**""^'- •#&;^ nrmoDuoTioN. 37 AuMiaos have been as ardoent in tlieii Attempts tc dis* cover a northeast passage to tbe north of Cape Shol* atskoi, as the fingfish have been to sail io the nortb west of the ABfearican Continent, through Baffin's ^y and Lancaster Sound. On the side of the Pacific, many efforts, havej within the last centnrjs been mode to further this object. In 1741, the e^lebrated Captain Behrinff discovered the straits which bear his name, as we are informed bj Hnller, the chronicler of Russian discoveries, and several snbseqnent commanders that nation seconded his endeavors to penetrate fro: the American continent to the northeast. From tl period when Deshnew sailed on his expedition, to the vear 1764, when Admiflil Tchitschagof, an i^^^g** Die and active officer, endeavored to force ir^llsage round Spitzb^ergen, (which, although he attempted Mth a resolution and skill which womd fall to the lot of few, he was unable to effect,) and thence to the present times, indnding the arduous efforts of Oaptain Billingt and Tancouver, and the more recent one bf M. JPri Wrangell, the Russians have been untiring in tAfff at^ tempts to di^over a passage eastward, to tl^morth of (Jape Taimurand Cape Snelatskoi. And certainly, if skill, perseverance, and courage, could have o^ wea this passage, it would have been accomplished. Soon after Ae general peace of Europe, when ^ar's alarms had given way to the hieh pursuits of science, the government recommencecT tne lonff-«usponded work of proaecuting discoveries within thaArctic Oircle. An expedition' was dispatched under the command of Sir John Boss^n order to explore the scene of the former labora of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted with the golden dreams of a northwest passage, which Barrinffton and Beaufoy had in the last age so enthu siasticdly advocated, our nautical adventurers by no means relinquished the long-cherished chimera. It must be admitted, however, that the testimony of Parry and Franklin pass for much on the other sid^ of the question. Both these officers, whose researches ifl the cause of scientific discovery entitle then ^ o very ^\-^. «^ 38 PB0OKE88 OF ABOTIO DnCOVEBY. liigli respect, have deelared it at their opinion thatT snoh a passM^ does not exist to the north of the T6tb dnnree of lantnde. Oaptain Parrj, in the eonohMling remarks of his first Toyage, (vol. ii. p. 241,) says — *^ Ca the existence of a northwest passage to the Pacific, it is now scarcely po8sii)le U} doabt,,and from the sneeess which attended onr efforts in 1819, after passing through Sir James Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anti ipatin^ its complete accomplishment,^' &e. And rankhn, in the eleventh chapter of his work, is of the me opinion, as to the practicability of such a passage But in no subsequent attempt, either by themselves or otheia^ has this long souglik desideratum been ac- compl^nrod ; impediments and barriers seem as thickly thrown in its way as ever.* I An expedition was at length undertidcen for the sol« purpose of reaching the !North Pole, with a view to the ascertainment of philosophical questions. It was pitted an*!! placed under the command of Sir Edward Par|^^ and here first the elucidation of phenomena eonflieted with this imaginary axis <^/ our planet formed the primary object of investigation. Hy space and purpose in this wo& will not permit me to ffo into detail by examininff what Barrow justly terms ^ those brilliant periods of early English enter- prise, so conspicuously displayed in every quarter of the globe, but in none, probably, to greater advantage than in those bold and persevering efforts to pierce through frozen seas, in their little slender barks, of the most miserable description, ill provided witii the means either of comfort or safety, without ' charts or instni' ments, or any previous knowledge of the cold and in^ hospitable region through which they had to force and- -i to reel their way ; their vessels olt beset amidst end* less fields of ice, and threatened to be overwhelmed with instant destruction from the rapid whirling and bursting of those huge floating masses, Imown by thd Colonial Magadne^ ^oL iili. fx 340 ■ r A- J 'r IJSXKOUUCTIOA. leans ittni- id in* and end- llnted and rthe m name of icebergs. Yet so powerfully infused into the qiinds of Britons was the spirit of enterprise, thai some of the ablest, the most learned, and most respect* able men of the times, not only lent their countenance and supoort to expeditions fitted out for the discovery of new lands, but strove eagerly, in their own persons, to share in the glory and 3ie danger of every daring adventure." To the late Sir John Barrow, F. E. S., for so long a {)eriod secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early ife, himself visited the Spitzber^n seas, as high as the 80^ parallel, we are mainly mdebted for the ad- vocacy and promotion of the several expeditions, and the investigations and inquiries set on foot in t^e pres^ ent century, and to the vovages which have been nith- erto so successfully carried out, as regards the interests of science and our knowledge of the Polar regions. Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsi- bility for these expeditions to any other quarter than the several administrations during which they were undertaken, there can be no question but that these enterprises originated in Sir John Barrdw's ab)e and zealous exhibition, to our naval authorities, of the several facts and arguments upon which they might best be justified and prosecuted as national objects. Thejgeneral anxietv now prevailing respecting the fate of & John Franklin and his gallant companions, throws at this moment somewhat of a sloom on the subject, but it ought to be remembered that, up to the present period, our successive Polar voyages have, without exception, given occupation to the energies and gallantry ofener^tic seamen, and have extended the realms of magnetic and general science, at an ex- pense of lives and money quite insignificant, compared with the ordinary dangers and casualties of such expe- ditions, and, that it must be a very narrow spirit and view of the subject which, can raise the cry of ^^Oui bonOy^^ and counsel us to relinquish th<^ honor and peril of such enterprises* IfO PROUREM OF AROTIO DISOOTKRT. It cftn Boarcelv be deemed ont of plaee to give hM' a Bhort notice of the literary labors of this excellent and talented man, as I am not aware that such an out- line has appeared before. Sir John Barrow was one of the chief writers for the Qnarterly Reriew, and his articles in that journal amount to nearly 200 in number, forming, when bound np, twelve separate volumes. All those relating to the Arctic Expeditions, &c., which created the great- est interest at the period thev were published, were from his pen, and consist chieny of the following pa- pers, oommencinff from the 18th volume ; — On Polar Ice ; On Behring's Straits and the Polar Basin ; On Beach the Pole ; Franklin's Second Expedition ; Lyon's Voyage to Repulse Bay ; Back's Arctic Land Expe- dition, and his Yoyage of the Terror. Besides these he published " A Chronological History of Vovages to the Arctip^ Seas," and afterward a second volume, " On the Voyaffes of Discovery and Research within the Arctic Regions." He aUo wrote lives of Lord Macartney, 2 vols. 4to ; of Lord Anson and HoWe, each 1 vol.' 8vo ; of Peter the Great; and an Account of the Mutiny of the Bounty, (in the "Family Library;") "Travels in. Southern Africa," 2 vols, 4to; and "Travels in Ohina and Oochin China," each 1 vol. 4:to. In the "Encyclopedia Britannica" are ten or' twelve of his articles, and he wrote one in the £din- burgh Review by special request. In addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for the press innumerable MSS. of travelers in all parts of thd globe, the study of geography being his great delight, as is evidenced by his having founded the Royal Geographical Society of London, which now holds so high and influential a position in the learned and scientific world, and has advanced so materially the progress of discovery and research in all parts of IMTBOfHJOnON. M Ihe fclob« LmUv, Sir John Barrow, not lonjo^ befot't bit death, publiihed hit own avtobiography, in wbiUi he records the labors, the toil^ and adventare, of a lor.g and honorable public life. Sir John Barrow has dc«icribed, with Tolaminont ca\e and minute research, the arduous servioee of all the chief Arctic Toyaffers by tea and land, and to his roi ume I must refer Uiose who wish to obtain more exten sive details and particulart of the voyages of preceding centuries* He has also graphically set forth, to use bit own words, V their several characters and conduct, so uniformly ditplayed in their unflinching perseverance in difficulties of no ordinanr description, their patient endurance of extreme suffering, borne without mnr- muring, and with an equanimity and fortitude of mind under the most appalling distress^ rarely, if ever, equaled, and such as could only be supported by a superior degree of moral courage and resignation to the Divine will — displaying virtues like those of no ordinary caste, and such as will not fail to excite the sympathy, and challenge the admiration of every right- feeling reader.'* Hakluyt, in his " Chronicle of Voyages," justly ob- serves, that we should use much care in preserving the memories of the worthy acts of our nation. The different sea voyages and land journeys of the present century toward the North Pole have redounded to the honor of our country, as well as reflected credit on the characters and reputation of the officers engaged in them ; and it is to these I confine my observations. The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has been slow out progressive, and much still within the limits of practical navigation remains yet unexplored. The English nation very naturally wish that discov- eries which were first attempted by the adventurous spirit and maritime skill of their countrymen, should be finally achieved by the same means. ** Wil it not,|' says the worthy * preacher,' Hakluyt, " in all posteritie be as great a renown vnto our En- glish natione, to have beene the first discouerert of a •,-f* B2 PIIOORE68 OF AKOnO DISCOVERY. Bea Lcyond the North Cape, (nener certainely knowen before,) and of a conuenient passage into the huge em* pire of Buesia by the Baie of St. Kicholas and of the Kiuer of Duina, as for the Fortugales, to have found a sea beyond the Cape of Buona Esperanza, and so consequently a passage by sea into the East Indies ? " I cordially agree with the Quarterly Review, that " neither the country nor the naval service will ever believe they have any cause to regret voyages which, in the eyes of foreigners and posterity, must confer lasting honor upon both." The cost of those voyages has not been great, while the consequences will be permanent ; for it has been well remarked, by a late writer, that "the record of enterprising hardihood, physical endurance, and steady perseverance, displayed in overcoming elements the most adverse, will long remain among the worthiest memorials of human enterprise." * " How shall I admire, " says Purchas, " your heroic courage, ye marine worthies, beyond all names of worthiness! that neyther dread so long eyther the presence or absence of the sunne ; nor those foggy mysts, tempestuous winds, cold blasts, snowe and hayle in the ayre ; nor the unequall seas, which might amaze the hearer, and amate the beholder, when the Tritons and Neptune's selfe would quake with chilling feare to behold such monstrous icie ilands, renting themselves with terror of their own massines, and dis- dayning otherwise both the sea's sovereigntie and the Bunne's hottest violence, mustering themselves in those watery plaines where they hold a continual civill warre, and rushing one upon another, make windes and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares of others, while they rent themselves with crashing and splitting their congealed armors." So thickly are the Polar seas of the northern hemi- sphere clustered with lands, that the long winter months serve to accumulate filed ice to a prodigious extent, so as to form an almost impenetrable barrier of hyper borean frost — ,:. />i INTRODUCnON. ^'^'* 83 «» * A crystal pavement by the breatii of Haaren Cemented finn." Although there are now no new continents left to discover, our intrepid British adventurers are but too eager to achieve the bubUe reputation, to hand down their names to future ages for patient endurance, zeal, and enterprise, by explprations of the hidden mys- teries of — "the frigid zone, When, for relentlew months continual ni|[bt Holds o'er the glittering waste her stany light ; " *: bj undergoi^ perils, and enduring privations and dangers which the mind, in its reflective moments, shudders to contemplate. * It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold, and so limited the summer, and consequently so short the time allowed for a transit within the Arctic circle, from Baffin's Bay to Behring's Straits, that a passage, even if discovered, will never be of any use as a chan- nel. It is not likely that these expeditions would ever have been persevered in with so much obstinacy, had the prospects now opening on the world of more prac- ticable connections with the East been known forty years ago. Hereafter, when the sacred demands of ' humanity have been answered, very little more will be heard about the northwest passage to Asia ; which, if ever found, must be always hazardous and pro- tracted, when a shojt and quick one can be accom- plished by railroads through America, or canals across the Isthmus. A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of land and ocean on this our globe has, in all ages and by all countries, been considered one of the most im- portant desiderata, and one of the chief features of popular information. feut to no country is this knowledge of such prac- tical utility and of such essential importance, as to a maritime nation like Great Britain, whose mercantile marine visits every port, whose insular position ren- ders her completely dependent upon distant quarters 3 84 PROGRESS 6P arctic DISCOVERT. for half the necessary supplies, whether of food or lux- ury, which her native population consume, or which the arts and manufactures, of which she is the empori um, require. h* With a vast and yearly increasing dominion, cover- ing almost every region of the hahitahle glohe, — the chart of her colonies being a ichart of the world in out- line, sweeping the globe and touching every shore, — it becomes necessary that she should keep pace with the progress of colonization, by enlarging, wherever pos- sible, her maritime discoveries, completing and veri- fy inii: our nautical surveys, improving 1 A meteorologi- cal researches, opening up new and speedier periodical pathways over the oceans which were formerly trav- ersed with so much danger, doubt, and difficulty, and maintaining her superiority as the greatest of maritime nations, by sustaining that high and distinguished rank for naval eminence which has ever attached to the British name. The arduous achievements, however, of her nautical discoveries have seldom been appreciated or rewarded as they deserved. She loads her naval and military heroes — the men who guard her wooden walls and successfully fight her battles — with titles and pen- sions ; she heaps upon these, and deservedly so, prince- ly remuneration and all manner of distinctions ; but for the heroes whose patient toil and protracted endu- rance far surpass the turmoil of ^war, who peril their lives in the cause of science, many of whom fall vic- tims to pestilential climes, famine, and the host of dan- gers which environ the voyager and traveler in unex- plored lands and unknown seas, she has only a place in the niche of fame. What honord did England, as a maritime nation, con- ifer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes, — a man whose life was sacrificed for his country ? His widow had an annuity of 200^., and his surviving children 25^. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to the most eibinent of her naval discoverers, before whom Cabot, Drake, Frobisher, Magollan^ Anson, and INTRODUCTION. as or lux- which empori , cover- (e, — tho [ in out- ore, — ^it vith the ^er pos- ad veri- jorologi- )riodical rly trav- ilty, and aaritime led rank i to the nautical ewarded military alls and ind pen- |, prince- •ns; but id endu- ril their fall vic- of dan- n unex- Iplace in Ion, con- -a man widow jhildren paid to before ^on, and the arctic adventurers, Hudson and Baffin, — although all eminent for their discoveries and the important services they rendered to the cause of nautical sci- ence, — sink into insig&ificance ! If we glance at the residts of Cook's voyages we find that to him we are indebted for the innumei'able discoveries of islands and colonies planted in the» Pacific ; that he determined the conformation, and surveyed the numerous bays and inlets, of New Holland ; established the geogra- phical position of the northwestern shores of America ; ascertained the trending of the ice and frozen shores to the north of%ehring's Straits ; approached nearer the South Pole, and made more discoveries in the Austra- lian regions, than mate. 46 petty officers, seamen, &c. ^ Total complement, 65. Trent, 249 tons.g| riXieutenant and Commander — Joim Franklin, 'ii lieutenant — Fred. "W". Beechy, (artist.) ~t Purser — W. Barrett. ^ Assistant Surgeon — A. GilfiUan. Admiralty Hates— A. Eeid and George Back. Greenland Pilots ^- G, Fife, master ; G. Kirby, nw.l;€w ri 80 petty officers and seamen. Total complement, 38. VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AND FRANKLIN. 47 Having been properly fitted for the service, and ta- ken on board two years' provisions, the ships sailed on the 25th of April. The Trent had hardly ffot clear of the river before she sprang a leak, and was detained in the poi*!; of Lerwick nearly a fortnight undergoing repairs. " On the 18th of May, the ships encountered a severe gale, and under even storm stay-sails were buried ffun- walo deep in the waves. On the 24th they sighted Cherie Island, situated in lat. 74^ 33' N., and long. 17^ 40' E., formerly so noted lor its fishery, being much frequented by walrusses, and for many years the Mus- covy Company carried on a lucrative trade by sending ships to the island for oil, as many as a thousand ani- mals being often captured by the crew of a single ship in the course of six or seven hours. The progi'ess of the discovery ships through the small floes and huge masses of ice which floated in succes- sion past, was slow, and these, from their novelty, were regarded with peculiar attention from the grotesque shapes they assume. Jhe progress of a vessel through such a labyrinth of frozen masses is one of the most in- teresting sights that offer in the Arctic seas, and kept the officers and crew out of their beds till a late hour watching the scene. Capt. Beechey, the graphic nar- rator of the voyage, thus describes the general impres- sion created : — " There was besides, on this occasion, an additional motive for remaining up; very few of us ^d ever seen the sun at midnight, and this night haj^iening to be particularly clear, ms broad red disc, . curiously distorted by refraction, and sweeping majes- tically along the northern horizon, was an object of im- posing grandeur,^j||^ch riveted to the deck some of oui crew, who would perhaps have beheld with indifference the less imposing effect of the icebergs; or it might have been a combination of both these phenomena ; for it cannot be denied that theT novelty, occasioned by the floating masses, was materially heightened by the sin- gular effect produced by the very low altitude at which the sun cast tis fiery beams over the icy surface of the 48 PROGRESS OF ARCTIU DISCOVERY. sea. The rays were too oblique to illuminate more thar the inequalities of the floes, and falling thus partially on the grotesque shapes, either really assumed by the ice^or distorted by the unequal refraction of the atmos- phere, so betrayed the imagination that it required no great exertion of fancy to trace in various directions ar- chitectural edifices, grottos and caves here and there glittering as if with precious metals. So generally, in- deed, was the deception admitted, that, in directing the route of the vessel from aloft, we for awhile deviated from our nautical phraseology, and shaped our course for a church, a tower, a bridge, or some similar structure^ instead of for lumps of ice, which were usually desig- nated by less elegant appellations." The increasing difficulties of this ice navigation soon, however, directed their attention from romance to the reality of their position, the perils of which soon be- came alarmingly apjparent, " The streams of ice, between which we at first pur- sued our serpentine course with comparative ease, grad- ually became more narrow, and at' length so impeded the navigation, that it became necessary to run the ships against some of these imaginary edifices, in order to turn them aside. Even this did not always succeed, as some were so substantial and immoveable, that the vessels glanced off to the opposite bank of the channel, and then became for a time embedded in the ice. Thus cir- cumstanced, a vessel has no other resource than that of patiently awaiting the change of position in the ice, of which she must take every advantage, or she will Settle bodily to leeward, and become completely entangled." On the 26th the ships sighted the southern promon- tory of Spitzbergen, and on the Wt^^ while plying to windward on the western side, ^fe overtaken by a violent gale at southwest, in which they parted com- pany. ^The weather was very severe. "The snow fell in heavy showers, and several tons weight of i€^ accu- mulated about the sides of the brig, (the Trent,) and form ed a complete casing to the planks, which received an additional layer at each plunge c T the vessel. So groat '< •■ VOYA E OF BDCHAN AND FBA2^KLIN. 49 ^indeed, was the accumtftation about the bov^s, that we were obliged to cut it away repeatedly with axes to re- lieve the bow-sprit from the enormous weight that was attached to it ; and the ropes were so thickly covered with ice, that* it was necessary to beat them with largo sticks to keep them in a state of readiness for any evo- lution that might be rendered necessarv, either by the appearance of ice to leeward, or by a cnange of wind." On the gale abating, Lieutenant Franklin found him- self surrounded by the main body of ice in lat. 80° N., and had much difficulty in extricating the vessel. — Had this formidable body been encountered in thick weather, while scudding before a gale of wind, there would have been very little chance of saving either the vessels or the crews. The Trent fortunately fell in with her consort, the Dorothea, previous to entering the ap- pointed rendezvous at Magdalena Bay, on the 3d of June. This commodious inlet being the first port they had anchored at in the polar regions, possessed many objects to engage atte/ition. Wh# particularly struck them was the brilliancy of the atmosphere, the peace- ful novelty of the scene, and the grandeur of the vari- ous objects with Vhich nature has stored these unfre- quented regions. The anchorage is formed by rugged mountains, which rise precipitously to the height of about 3000 feet. Deep valleys and glens occur between the ranges, the greater part of which are either filled with immense beds of snow, or with glaciers, sloping from the summits of the mountainous margin to th« very edge of the sea. The bay is rendered conspicuous by four huge gla- ciers, of which the most remarkable, though the small- est in size, is situated 200 feet above the sea, on the slope of a mount^. From its peculiar appearance this glacier has been termed the Hanging Iceberg. Its position is such that it seems as if a very small matter would detach it from the mountain, and precip- itate it into the sea. And, indeed, large portions of its front do occasionally break away and fall with hfead- long impetuosity upon the beach, to the great liazard 4 60 JROGBESS OF ABCTIO DISCOVERY. of any boat that may cliance^to be near. The largesf of these glaciers occupies the head of the bay, and, according to Captain Beechey's account, extends from two to three miles inland. Numerous large rents in its upper surface have caused it to bear a resemblance to the ruts left by a wagon ; hence it was named by the voyagers the "Wagon Way." The frontage of this gla- cier presents a perpendicular surface of 300 feet in height, by 7000 leet in length. Mountain masses — " Whose blocks of sapphire seem to mortal eye '^ Hewn from cerulean quames in the skj, ^ With glacier battlements that- crowd the spheres^ The slow creation of six thousand ^ear% Amidst immensity they tower sublime, Winter's eternal palace, built by Time." At the head of the bay there is a high pyramidal mountain of granite, termed Rotge Hill, from the m^- iads of small birds of that name which frequent its base, and appear to prefer its environs to everv other part of the narbor. "They are so numerous that we have frequently seeg^an uninterrupted line of them ex- tending full half way over the bay, or to a distance of more than three miles, and so close together that thirty have fj^en at one shot. This living crtune to fall in with the Earty, and bring them safely on board, after eighteen ours' absence. They determined in future to rest sat- isfied with the view of the shore which was afforded them from the ship, having not the slightest desire to attempt to approach it again bj means of the ice. The pressure of the ice agamst the vessels now be- came very ffreat. "At one time, when the Trent appeared to be so closely wedged up that it did not seem possible for her to be moved, she was suddenly lifted four feet by an enor- mous mass of ice getting under her keel ; at another, the fragments of the crumbling floe were piled up under the bows, to the great danger of the bowsprit. "The Dorothea was in no less imminent danger, es- pecially from the point of a floe, which came in contact with her side, where it remained a short time, and then glanced off, and became checked by the field to which f' 66 PBOOBE88 OF AROTIO DISCOVERT. she was moored. The enonnous pressure to which tho ship had been subjected was now apparent by the field being rent, and its point broken into fragments, which were speedily heaped up in a pyramid, thirty-five feet in height, upon tne very summit of which there ap- pearea a huge mass, bearing the impression of the planks and bolts of the vessers bottom.'' Availing themselves of a break in the ice, the ships were moved to an anchorage between the islands con- tiguous to the Cloven Cliif ; and on the 28th of June, anchored in fifteen fathoms water, near Vogel Sang. On the islands they found plenty of game, and eider- ducks. The island of Yogel Sang alone supplied the crews with forty reindeer, which were in such high condition that the tat upon the loins of some measured from four to six inches, and a carcass, ready for being dressed,) weighed 285 pounds. Later in the season, the deer were, however, so lean that it was rare to m 3et with any fat upon them at all. On the 6th of July, finding the ic« had been driven to the northward, the ships again put to sea, and Oapt. Buchan determined to prove, by a de&perate effortj what advance it was possible to make by dragging the vessels through the ice whenever the smallest opening occurred. This laborious experiment was pertormea by fixing large ropes to iron hooks driven into the ice, and by heaving upon them with the windlass, a party removing obstructions in the channel with saws. But in spite of all their exertions, the most northerly posi- tion attained was 80° 37' N. Although fastened to tho ice, the ships were now drifted bodily to the southward by the prevailing current. They were also much in- jured by the pressure of hummocks and fields of ice. On the 10th of July, Captain Beechey tells us, the Trent sustained a squeeze which made her rise four feet, and heel Over five streaks ; and on the 16th and 16th, both vessels suffered considerable damage. " On that occasion," he says, "we observed a field fifteen feet in thickness break up, and the pieces pile upon M VOYAGE OF UUOflAN AND FRANKLIN. 61 each other to a great height, until tney upset, when they rolled over with a tremendous craeh. The ice near the fihips was piled up above their bulwarks. Fortunately, the vessels rose to the pressure, or they must have had their sides forced in. The Trent received her greatest damage upon the quarters, and was so twisted that the doors of all the cabins flew open, and the panels ot some started in the frames, while her false stem-post was moved three inches, and her timbers cracked to a most serious extent. The Dorothea suffered still more : some of her beams were sprung, and two planks on the lower deck were split fore and aft, and doubled up, and she otherwise sustained serious injury in her hull. It was in vain that we attempted any relief ; our puny efforts were not even felt, thouffh continued for eight hours with unabated zeal ;*and it was not until the tide changed that the smallest effect was produced. When, however, that occurred, the vessels nghted and settled in the water to their proper draught.'" From the 12th to the 19th, they were closely beset with ice. For nine successive days following this the crev 8 were occupied, night and day, in endeavoring to extricate the ships, and regain the open sea. Thinking he had given the ice a fair trial here, the commander determined upon examining its condition toward the eastern coast of Greenland, and in the event of finding it equally impenetrable there, to proceed round the south cape of Spitzbergen, and make an attempt be- tween that island and Noyb, Zembla. On the 30th of July, a sudden gale came on, and brought down the main body of the ice upon them, so that the ships were in such imminent danger that their only means of safety was to take reftige among it — a practice which has been resorted to by whalers in ex- treme cases — as their only chance of escaping destruc- tion. The following is a description of the preparation made to^ithstand the terrible encounter, and the hair- breadth escape from the dangers : — " In order to avert the affo-^.- Bible, a cable was cut up into thirty-feet leiisths, and these, with plates of iron four feet square, which had been supplied to us as fenders, together with some walrus' nides, were hung round the vessels, especially about the bows. The masts, at the same time, were se- cured with additional ropes, and the hatches were bat- tened and nailed down. By the time these precautions had been taken, our approach to the breakers only left us the alternative of either permitting the ships to bo drifted broadside against the ice, and so to take th^r chance, or of endeavoring to force fairly into it by put- ting before the wind. At length, the hopeless state of a vessel placed broadside against so formidable a body .became apparent to all, and we resolved to attempt the latter expedient." ^Eagerly, but in vain, was the general line of the pack scanned, to find one place more open thatf the other. All parts appeared to be equally impenetrable, and to present one unbroken line of furious oreakers, in which immense pieces of ice were heaving and subsiding with the waves, and dashing together with a violence which nothing apparently but a solid body could withstand, occasioning such a noise that it was with the greatest difficulty the officers could make their orders heard by the crew. The fear^l aspect of this appalling scene is thus sketched by Captain Beeche^' : — " No language, I am convinced, can convey an ade- quate idea of the terrific grandeur of the effect now pro- duced by the collision of the ice and the tempestuous ocean. The sea, violently agitated and rolling its moun- tainous waves against an opposing body, is at all times a sublime and awful sight ; but when, in addition, it encounters immense masses, which it has set in motion with a violence equal to its own, its effect is prodigi- ously increased. At oife moment it bursts upon these icy fragments and burie$ them many feet beneath its wave, and the next, as the buoyancy of .the v€re to betaken on from Great ^ave Lake. The whole stock of provisions they could obtain before starting was only su&cient for one day's supply, exclusive of two bar- rels of %ur, three cases of preserved meats, some choco- late, arrow-root and portable soup, which had been brought fi'om England, and were kejpt as a reserve for the journey to the -coast in the following season; seventy pounds of dfer's flesh and a little bafley were all that the Company's officers could give them. The provisions were distributed among three canoes, and the party set off in good spirits on the 18^h of July. They had to make an inroad very soon on their preserved meats, for tl ev were very unfortunate in their fishing. On the *? ;th of July, however, they were successftd m shooting a buffalo in the Salt River, after giving him fourteen balls. At Moose Deer Island they got supplies from the Hudson's Bay and North West Companies' officers, and on th^Tth set out again on their journey, reaching Fort Providence by the 29th. Shortly after they had an interview with a celebrated and influential Indian chief, named Akaitcho, who was to frimish them with guides. Another Canadian*roya- geur was there engaged, and the party now consisted of the officers already named, Mr. Fred. "Wentzel, clerk of the N. W. Fur Company, who joined them here, John Hepburn, the Englisn seaman, seventeen Canadian voy- ageurs, (one of wnom, named Michel, was an Iroquois,) and thi'ee Indian interpreters, besides the wives of three of the voyageurs who had been brought on for the pur- p oseof making clothes and shoes for the men at the wi^iw establishment. The whole number were twenty- nine, exclusive of three children. I give the list of thoee whose names occur most fi^uently irt the narrative; 64 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. J. B. Belanger, Peltier, Solomon Belariger, Samahdte, Benoit, Perrault, Antonio Fontano, Beauparlant, Yail- lant, Credit, Adam St. Gennain, interweter; Augustus and J^unius, Esquimaux interpreters. They had provis- ions for ten days' consumption, besides a little chocolate and tea, viz : two casks of flour, 200 dried reindeer tongues, some dried moose meat, portable soup, and a little arrow-root. A small extra canoe was provided for the women, and the journey for the Coppermine River was commenced on the 2d of August. The party met with many hardships — were placed on short Me\ — and some of the Canadians broke out into open rebellion, refusing to proceed farther. However, they were at last calmed, and arrived on the 20th of August at Fort En- terprise, on Wiifter Lake, which, by the advice of their Indian guides, they determined on making their winter quarters. The total length of the voyage from Chipc- wyanwas552 miles; and^fter leaving Fort Providence, they had 21 miles of portage to pass over. As the men had to traverse each portage with a load of 180 lbs., and return three times light, they walked, in the whole, upward of 150 miles. * ' In consequence of the refusal of Akaitcho and his party of Indians to guide and accompany ^em to the sea, Decause, as they alledged, of the appiftch of win- ter, and the imminent danger. Captain Franklin was obliged to abandon proceecBng that season down the river, and contented himself with dispatching, on the 29th,»Mr. Back and Mr. Hood, in a light canoe, with St. Germain as interpreter, eight Canadians, and one Indian, furnished with eight days' provisions — all that xjould be spared. They returned on the 10th «of September, after hav- ing reached and coasted Point Lake. In the mean time; Franklin and Eichardson, accompanied by J. Hepburn and two Indians, alsp made a pedestrian excui^ion tow- ard the same quarter, leaving on the 9th of September, and returning on the fourteenth. The whole ^l^jj spent a long winter of ten months at Fort Enterprise* depending upcii the fish they could catch, and the 6tic ^ cess of their lurliai hunters, for food. . , ^ w fieanklin's first laxi) £xpia>moN. *'j On the 6th of October, the officers quitted their tents for a good log house which had been built. The clay with which tlie walls and roof were plastered, had to be tempered before the fire with water, and froze as it was daubed on ; but afterward cracl^ed in such a man- ner, as to admit the wind from every quarter. Still the new abode, with a good fire of fagots in the papa- clous clay-built chimney^ was considered quite comfort- able when compared with the chilly tents. The reindeer are found on the banks of the Copper- mine River early in May, as they then go to the sea- coaet to Ibring forth their young. They usually retire from the coast in July and August, rut in October, and shelter themselves in the woods during winter. Before the middle of October, the carcasses of one hundred deer had been secured in their store-house, together with one thousand pounds of suet, and some dried meat ; and eighty deer were stowed awav at various distances from their house, en cache. This placing provisions "en cache," is merely burying and protecting it from wolves and other depredators, by heavy loads of wood ot stone. On the 18th of October, Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel, accompanied by two Canadian voyageurs, two Indians and their Hives, set out for Fort !rrovidence to make the necessary arrangements for transporting the stores they expected from Cumberland House, and to see if sonae further supplies migbt not be obtained from the establishments on Slave Lake. Dispatches for Eng- land were also forwarded by them, detailing the pro- gress of the expedition up to this date. By the end of the month the men had also completed a house for themselves, 34 feet by 18. On the 26th of October, Akaitcho, and hie Indian party of hunters, amounting with woir^n and children to forty souls, came in, owinw to the de4r haviug migrated southward. This added to the daily number to be provided for, and by this time their ammunition was nearly expended. The fishing failed as the weather became more severe, and was given up on the 5th of N^apmber. About f ee PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. 1200 white fish, of from two to three pounds, had heen procured during the season. The fish froze as they were taken from the nets, becoming in a short time a solid mass of ice, so that a blow or two of the hatchet would easily split ^them open, when the intestines miffht be removed in one lump. If thawed before the hre, even after being frozen for nearly two days, the fish would recover their animation. On the 23d of November, they were gratified by the appearance of one of the Canadian voyageurs who had set out with Mr. Back. His locks were matted with snow, and he was so encrusted with ice frouf head to foot, that they could scarcely recognize him. He re- ported that they had had a tedious and fatiguing iour- ney taFort Providence, and for some days were desti- tute of provisions. Letters were brought from England to the preceding April, and quickly was the packet thawed to get at the contents. The newspapers con- veyed the intelligence of the death of George UI. The advices as to the expected stores were disheartening ; of ten bales of ninety pounds each, five had been lift by some mismanagement at the Grand Rapid on thtj Sattkatchawan. On the 28th of November, St. Ger- main the interpreter, with eight Canadian voyageurs, and four Indian hunters, were sent off to lying up the stores from Fort Providence. . - On the. 10th of December, Franklin managed to get rid of Akaitcho and his Indian party, by representing to them the impossibility of maintaining them. The leader, however, left them his mother and t^o female attendants; and old Kaskarrah, the guide, with his wife and daughter, remained behind. This daughter, who was designated " Green Stockings," from her dress, was considered a great beauty by her tribe, and although but sixteen, had belonged successiTel^ to two#iusbanas, and would probably have been the wife of dgmj more, if her mother had not required her services as a nurse. Mr, Hood took a good likeness of the young lady, but her mother was somewhat averse to her sitting for It, fearing tthat^her daughter's likeness would induct *(;■ w ^w VtUHKLia S VlUSrT lAN'D ]£XP£DITION. Ww tho Great Chief who resided in England to send for the •original!" The diet of the party in their winter abode consisted almost entirely of reindeer meat, varied twice a week by fish, and occaiftnally by a little flour, but they had no vegetables of anv kmd. On Sunday morning they and strips of cotton shirts; and Hepburn acquired con- siderable M? ' the manufacture '** ''oap from the wood ashes, fa- ..nd t. The stores \v .i^ anxiously looked for, and it was hoped they would have awived by New Year's Day, (1821,) so as to have kept the festival. As it was, they could only receive a little flour and &t, both of which were c&nsidered great luxuries. On the 15th, seven of the men arrived with two kegs of rum, one barrel of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls of tobacco, and some clothing. " They had been twenty-one days on their march from Slave Lake, and the labor they underwent was sufS- ^ntly evinced by their sledge collars having worn oat the shoulders of their coats. Their loads weighed from sixty to ninety pounds each, exclusive of their bedding and provisions, which at starting must have been at least as much more. "We were much rejoiced at their arrival, and proceeded forthwith to pierce the spirit cask, and issue to each of the househcJd the portion of rum which had been promised on the first day of the year. The spirits, which were proof, were frozen; btit after stand- ing at the fire for some time they flowed out, of the consistence of honey. The temperature of the liquid, even in this state, was so low as instantly to convert into ice the moisture which condensed on the surface of the dram-fflass. The fingers also adhered to the glass, and would doubtless have been speedily frozen had they been kept in contact with it ; yet each of the voyagenrs swallowed his dram without experiencing the slightest inconvenience, or complaining of toothache." It appeared that the Oa'^mllans had|i|pped the run) 08 KIOGKIJBS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERT. cask on their journey, aad helped themselves rather freely. i On the 27ta, Mr. "Wentzel and St. Germain arrived, with two Esquimaux interpreters wh^ad been engaged, possessed of euphonious names, rej^resenting the belly and the ear, but which had been An^icised into Au- gustus and Junius, beinff the months they had respec- tively arrived at Fort Churchill. The former spoke English. They brought four dc^ with them, which proved of great use during the season in drawing in wood for fuel. Mr. Back, at this time, the 24th of December, had gone on to Chipewyan to procure stores. On the 12th of February, another party of six men was sent to Fort Providence to bring up the remaining supplies, and these returned on the 6th of March. Many of the caches of meat which had been buried early in the winter were found destroyed by the wolves ; and some of these ani mals prowled nightly about the dwellings, even ventur inff upon the roof of their kitchen. The rations were reduced from eight to the short allowance of five ouncM of animal food per day. ^ On the ITth of March, Mr. Back returned from Fort Chipewyan, after an absence of nearly five months, during which he had performed a journey on foot of more than eleven hundred miles on snow shoes, with only the slight shelter at night of a blanket and a deer skin, with tne thermometer frequently at 40° and' 'once at 57°, and very often passing several days without food. Some very interesting traits of generosity on the part of the Indians are recorded by l£*. Back. Often they gave up and would not taste of fish or birds which they caught, with the touching remark, " We are accustomed to starvation, and you are not." Such passages as the following often occur in his narrative : — " One of our men caught a fish, which, with ihe assistance of soipe weed scraped from the rocks, {tripe de roche) which forms a glutinous substance, made OS. a tolerable ^ilr ^^* : it w«is not of the most choice kind, FRANKLIN 8 FIRST JJiND KXPKDITIOX. yet good enough for hungry men. While we were eat- ing it, I perceived one of the women bneily employed scraping an old skin, the contents of which her husband presented us with. They consisted of pounded meat, fat, and a greater proportion of Indian's and deer's hair than either ; and, though such a mixture may not appear very alluring to an ^Siglish stomach, it was thought a great luxury after three days' privation in these cheer- less regions of America." To return to the proceedings of Fort Enterprise. On the 23d of March, the last of the winter's stock of deer's meat was expended, and the party were compelled to consume a little pounded meat, which had been saved fo# making pemmican. The nets scarcely produced any fish, and their meals, which had hitherto been scanty enough, were now restricted to one in the day. The poor Indian families about the house, consisting principally of sick and infirm women and children, su? fered even more privation. They cleared away the snow on the site of the Autumn encampment to look for ^nes, deer's feet, bits of hide, and other offal. " When ^ys Franklin) we beheld them gnawing the pieces of hide, and pounding the bones for the purpose ot extract- some nourishment from them by boiling, we regret ted our inability to relieve them, but little tnought that we should ourselves be afterward driven to the neces- sity of eagerly collecting these same bones, a second time from the dung-hill.''^ On the 4th of June, 1821, a first party set off from the winter quarters for Poin* Lake, and the Ooppermino River, under the cha^e of Dr. Eichardson, consisting, in all, voyageurs and Indians, of twenty-three, exclusive of children. Each of the men carried about 80 lbs., be- sides his own personal baggage, -Weighing nearlv as much more. Some of the party dragged their Joads on sledges, others preferred carrying their burden on their backs. On the 13th, Dr. Richardson sent back most of the men ; and on the 14th Franklin dispatched Mr, Wentzel and a party with the canoes, which had been repaired. Following the water-coursdjlte far as practi* 70 paoGKEss OF Aiicrno dibcoveey. ir^ cable to Winter Lake, Franklin followed himself with Hepburn, three Canadians, two Indian hunters, and the two Esquimaux, and joined Dr. Kichardson on the 22d. On the 25th they all resumed their journey, and, as they proceeded down the river, were fortunate in killing, occasionally, several musk oxen. On the 15th thev got a distinct view of the sea from the summit of a hill ; it appeared choked with ice and full of islands. About this time they fell in with small parties of Esquimaux. On the 19th Mr. "Wentzel departed on his return for Slave Lake, taking with him four Canadians, who had been discharged for the purpose of reducing the expen- diture of provisions as much as possible, and dispatches to be forwarded to England. He was also instructed to cause the Indians to deposit a relay of provisions at Fort Enterprise, ready for the party should they return that way. The remainder of the party, including offi- cers, amounted to twenty persons. The distance that had been traversed from Fort Enterprise to the mouth of the river was about 334 miles, and the canoes had to be dragged 120 miles of this. ^ Two conspicuous capes were named by Franklin after Heaiiie and Mackenzie ; and a river which falls iiito the sea, to the westward of the Coppermine, he called after his companion, Bichardson. On the 21st of July, Franklin and his party embarked in their two canoes to navigate the Polar Sea, to the eastward, having with them provisions for fifteen days. On the 25th they doubled a bluff cape, which was named after Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty. An open- ing on its eastern side received the appellation of inman Harbor, and a group of islands were called after Pro- fessor Jameson. "Within the next fortnight, additions were made to their stock of food by a few deer and one or two bears, which were shot, feeing less fortunate afterward, and with no prospect of increasing their sup- ply of provision, the daily allowance to eadi man wap limited to a ha^df^i of pepimican and a small portion of portable sou|i^ ;«» franklin's FIKRT land EXPEDlTIOBf. n On the morning of the 6th of Aii^ist they came to the mouth of a river blocked up with shoals, which Franklin named after liis friend and companion Back. The time spent in exploring Arctic and Melville Sounds and Bathuret Inlet, and the failure of meeting with Esquimaux from whom provisions could be ob- tained, precluded any possibility of reaching Repulse Bay, and therefore having but a day or two's provisJons left, Franklin considered it prudent to turn oack after reaching Point Tumagain, naving sailed nearly 600 geographical miles in tracing the deeply indented ^joast of Coronation Gulf from the Coppermine River. On the 22d August, the return voyage was- commenced, the boats making for Hood's River by the way of the Arctic Sound, and being taken as far up the stream as possible. On the 31st it was found impossible to pro- ceed with them farther, and smaller canoes were made, suitable for crossing any of the rivers that might ob- struct their progress. The weight carried by each man was about 90 lbs., and with this thej progressed at the rate of a mile an hour, including rests. On the 6th of September, having nothing to eat, the last piece of pemmican and a little arrow-root having formed a scanty supper, and being without the means of making a fire, they remained in bed all day. A se- vere snow-storm lasted two days, and the snow even drifted into their tents, covering their blankets several inches. " Our suffering (says Franklin) from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in such weather, with the tem- perature at 20°, and without fire, will easilv be im- agined ; it was, however, less than that which we felt from hunger." Weak from fasting, and their garments stiffened with the frost, after packing their- frozen tents and bedcloches the poor travelers again set out on the 7th. . After feeding almost exclusively on several species of Gyrophora, a lichen known as tripe de roehe^ which scarcely allayed the pan^ of hunger, on the 10th " they got a good meal* by killing a musk ox. To skin and cut up the ar^maJ vas the work of a few minutes. The *> 72 PKOORKS8 or Anono discovkuy. contents of its Btomjich were devoured upon the spot, und the raw intestiues, whicU were next attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate amongst us to be ex- cellent." ' Wearied and worn out with toil and sufiering, many of the party got careless and indifferent One of the eanoea was oroken and abandoned. Witli an improvi- dence scarcely to be credited, thi*ee of the lishing-nets were also thrown away, and the floats biunt On the 17th they managed to allay the pangs of hun- ger by eating pieces of singed hide, and a little trme de rocKe. This and some mosses, witji an occasional sol- itary partridge, formed their invariable food ; on very many days even this scanty supply could not be obtained, and their appetites became ravenous. Occasionally they picked up pieces of skin, and a few bones of deer which had been devoured by the wolves in the previous spring. The bones were ren- dered friable by burning, and now and then their old shoes were added to the repast. On the 26th they reached a bend of the Coppermine, which terminated in Point Lake. The second canoe had been demolished and abandoned by the beurers on the 2M, and they were thus left without any means of water transport across M^e lakes and river. On this day the carcass of a deer was discovered in the cleft of a rock, into which it had fallen in the spring. It was putrid, but little less acceptable to the poor starv- ing travelers on that account ; and a fire being kin- dled a large portion was devoured on the spot, atlbrd- ing an unexpected break&st. On the first of October one of the party, who had been out hunting, brought in the antlers and backbone of another deer, which had been killed in the summer. The wolves and birds of prey had picked them clean, but there still remained a quantity of the spinal raar- ^w, which they had not been able to extract. Tliis, although putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spme oeing divided into portions was distributed equally. " Anei eating the mairow, (says Franklin,) ^ FRANKLID^g riBST IJLIfD EXPKDITTON. 73 wlitch was so acrid as to oxcoriato the lipe, we ren- dered the bones friable by burning, and ate them also." The strength of the wnole part^ now began to fail, from the privation and fatigue which they endured. — Franklin was in a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr. Hood was also reduced to a perfect shadow, from the severe bowel-complaints which the tripe de roohe never failed to give him. Back was so feeble as to require the support of a stick in walkings and Dr. Bichardson had lameness superadded to weakness. A rude canoe was constructed of willows, covered with canvass, in which the party, one by one, managed to reach in safety the soutnem bank of the river on the 4th of October, and went suppei'lcss to bed. On the following morning, previous to setting ont, the whole party ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever scraps of leather they had, to strtngthtja their stomachs for the fatigue of the day's journey. Mr. Hood now broke down, as did two or three mo %.' of the party, and Dr. Richardson kindly volunteik*ed to remain with them, while the rest pushed ai co Fort Enterprise for succor. Not being able to fine any tripe de rochey they drank an infusion of the Labrador tea- plant {Ledrum palustre^ var. decumhens,)ja,nd ate a few jnorsels of burnt leaUier for supper. This contin- ued to be a frequent occurrence. Others of the party continued to drop down with fa- tigue and weakness, until they were reduced to five persons, besides Franklin. Wnen they had no food or nourislvment of any kind, they crept under their blank- ets, to drown, if possible, the gnawing pangs of hunger and fatigue by sleep. At length tL 3" reached Fort En- terprise, and to their disappointm«ui; ^ and grief £[>und it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no de- ^sit of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter trom Mr. "Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be found. "It would be hnpossible (says Franklin,) to describe our sensations after entering this miserable abode, and discovering how we had been neglected :• the whole party shed tears, not so much for; our owu; x 74 PBOGS£SS OF ARCrnO DISCOVERY. fate a* for that of our friends in the rear, whose lives depended entirely on our sending immediate relief from this place." A note, however, was found here from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the house by another route two days before, and was goinff in search of the Indians. If he was unsuccessful in find- ing them, he proposed walking to Fort Providence, and sending succor from thence, but he doubted whether he or his party could perform the journey to that place in their present debilitated state. Franklin and his small party now looked round for some means of pres- ent subsistence, and fortunately discovered several deer skins, which had been thrown away during their former residence here. The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes ; these, with the skins and the addition of tripe de roche^ they considered would support life tolerably well for a short time. The bones were quite acrid, and the soup extracted from them, quite putrid, excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it was some- what milder when boiled with the lichen, and the mix- ture was even deemed palatable with a little salt, of which a cask had been left here in the spring. They procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the rooms, and water for cooking by melting the snow.^ Augustus arrived safe after them, just as they were sitting round the fire eating their supper of singed skin. Late on the 13th, Belanger also reached the house, with a note from Mr. Back, stating that he had yet found no trace of the Indians. The poor meSsenger was almost speechless, being covered with ice and nearly frozen to death, having fallen into a rapid, and for thi third time since the party left the coast, narrowly escaped drowning. After being well rubbed, having had hi|^ dress changed, and some warm soup given him, he recovered sufficiently to answer the questions put to him. Under the impression that the Indians must t)e on their way to Fort Providence, and that it would be possible tf overtake them, as they usually t'^aveled FRANKLINS ritlST LAND EXPEDITION. i^ slowly with their families, and there being likewise a prospect of killing deer about Reindeer Lake, where they had been usually found abundant, Franklin de- termined to take the route for that post, and sent word to Mr. Back by Belanger to that effect on the 18th. On the 20th of October, Franklin set out in com- " pany with Benoit and Augustus to seek relief, having patched three pairs of snow shoes, and taken some singed skin for their support. Pol tier and Samandre had volunteered to remain at the house with Adam, who was too ill to proceed. They were so feeble as .scarcely to be able to move. Augustus, the Esqui- maux, tried for fish without success, so that their only fare was skin and tea. At night, composing them-* selves to rest, they lay close to each other for warmth, but found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced through their famished frames. On resuming the journey next morning, Franklin' had the" misfortune to break his snow-shoes, by falling between two rocks. This accident prevented him from keeping pace with the others, arid in the attempt he became quite exhausted ; unwilling to delay their pro- gress, as the safety of all behind depended on their obtaining eaetly assistance and immediate supplies, Franklin resolved to turn back, while the others pushed on to meet Mr. Back, or, missing him, they were directed to proceed to Fort Providence. Frank- lin found the two Canadians he had left at the house dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low spirited that he had great difficulty in rallying them to any exer- tion. As the insides of their mouths had become sore from eating the bone-soup, they now relinqui&hed the use of it, and boiled the skin, which mode of dressing was fonnd more palatable than frying it. They had pulled down nearly all their dwelling for fuel, to warm themselves and cook their scanty meals. The tripe de Toche^ on which they had depended, now became entirely frozen; and what was more tantalizing to their perishing frames, was the sight of food within their reach, whicli they could not procure. " We saw 76 *\ '^ PROGRESS" OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. • (says Franklin) a herd of reindeer sporting on the river, about half h mile from the house ; they re- mained there a long time, but none of the party felt themselves strong enough to go after them, nor was there one of us who could have fired a gun without resting it." While they were seated round the fire this evening, discoursing about the anticipated relief, the sound of voices was heard, which was thought with joy to be that of the Indians, but, to their bitter disappoint- ment, the debilitated frames and emaciated counte- nances of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn presented themfeelves at the door. They were of course gladly received, although each marked the ravages which fam- ine, care and fatigue had made on the other. The ■ Doctor particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of the voices of his friends, which he requested them to * make more cheerful if possible, unconscious that his own partook of the same key. Hepburn having sliot a partridge, which was brought . to the house, Dr. Richardson tore out the feathers, and having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided it into six portions. Franklin and his three compan- ions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the first morsel of fiesh any of them had tasted for thirty- one days, unless, indeed, the small gristly particles which they found adhering to the pounded bones may be termed flesh. Their spirits were revived by this small supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise them still nigher by the prospect of Hepburn's being able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen, and even fired at, several near the house. He endeavored, too, to rouse them into some attention to the comfort of their apartment. Having brought his Prayer-book and Teb lament, some prayers, psalms, and portions of scripture, appropriate to their situation, were read out by Dr. Richardson, and they retired to their blankets. - Early next morning, the Doctor and Hepburn went out in search of game ; but though they saw several FZUNKUN^S FZJUBT LASD I&XPEDniON. 77 herds of deer, and fired^i^ii^me shots, they were not so fortunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their guns steadily. The cold compelled the former to re- turn soon, but Hepburn perseveringly persisted until late in the evening. f m " My occupation, (continues Franklin) was to search for skins under th6 snow, it being now our object im- mediately to get all that we could ; but I had not strength to drag in more than two of those which were within twenty yards of the house, until the Doctor came and assisted me. We made up our stock to twenty-six; but several of them were putrid, and scarcely eatable, even by men suffering the extremity of famine. Peltier and Samandre continued very weak and dispirited, and they were unable to cut fire- wood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious task to peiform after he came back late fVom hunting.'' To the exertions, honesty, kindness, and consideration of this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is to be attributed. And I may here mention that Sir John Franklin, when he became governor of Van Diemen!s Land, obtained for him a good civil appoint- ment. This deserving man, I am informed by Mr. Barrow, is now in England, having lost his office, which, I believe, has been abolished. It is to be hoped something will be done for him by the govern- ment. After their usual supper of singed skin and bone* soup, Dr. Richardson acquainted TranWin with the events that had transpired since their parting, particu- larly with the afflictmg circumstances attending the death of Mr. Hood, and Michel, the Iroquois ; the par- ticulars of which I shall now proceed to condense from his narrative. After Captain Franklin had bidden them farewell, having no tripe de roche they drank an infiision of the country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, although it afforded no sustenance. They then retii*ed to bed, and kept to their blankets all next day, as the snow drift was so heavy as to prevent their lighting # T8 FBOORB8B OF ABOTIO DISCaVBBT. ■% fire with the green and frozen willows, which were their only fuel. Through the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the party, previous to leaving London, had been furnished with a small collection of religious books, of which, (says Bichardson,) we still retained two or three of the most portable, and they proved of incalcolable benefit to us. ^^ We read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with calmness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unre- strained confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope on our future prospects." How beautifiu a picture have we here represented, of true piety and resignation to the divine will inducing pa- tience and submission under an imezampled load of misery and privation. Michel, the Iroquois, joined them on the 9jth of Oc- tober, having, there is strong reason to believe, mur- dered two of the Canadians who were with him, Jean Baptiste Belanger and Perrault, as they were never seen afterward, and he gave so many rambling and contradictory statements of his proceedings, that no credit could be attached to his story. The travelers proceeded on their tedious joumey by slow stages. Hr. Hood was much affected with dim ness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of ex treme debility, which caused them to move slowly and to make frequent halts. Michel absented himself all day of the 10th, and only arrived at their encampment near the pines late on the 11th. He reported that he had been in chase of some deer which passed near his sleeping place in the morning, and although he did not come up with them, yet he found a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of ft deer's horn, and had brought a part of it. ,. ;►. ,- FBANKIJN'8 FIR&r LAND EXPEWTIOIT. 79 Richardson adds — "We implicitly believed this ored to lead the conversation toward our future pros- pects in life. The fact is, that with the decay ot our strength, our minds decayed, and we were no longer able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that sur- rounded us. Yet we were calm and resigned to our fate ; not a murmur escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our addresses to the Supreme feeing." On the morning of the 20th, they again urged Michel to go a-hunting, that he might, if possible, leave them some provision, as he intended quitting them next day, but he showed great unwillingness to go out, and lingered about*the lire under the pretenso of cleaning his gun. After the morning service had been read. Dr. Richardson went out to gather some tripe de roche^ leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the fire* side, arguing with Michel; Hepburn was employed cutting fife-wood. While they were thus engaged, the treacherous Iroquois took the opportunity to place his*gun close to Mr. Hood, and shoot him through the head. He represented to his companions that the de- ceased had killed himself. On examination of the body, it was found that the shot had entered the back part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and that the muzzle of the gun had been applied so close as to set fire to the nightcap behind. Michel pro- tested his innocence of the crime, and Hepburn and Dr. Kichardson dared not openly evince their suspi- cion of his guilt. Next day. Dr. Elchardson determined on going straight to the Fort. They singed the hair off a par» of the buffalo robe that belonged to their ill-fated com panion, and boiled and ate it. In the course of theii march, Michel alarmed them, much by his gesture! and conduct, was constantly mattering to himself, ox- pressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried franklin's first lakd expeditioit. 81 pro- and to pewnade them to go southward to the woods, where he said ho could maintain himself all the winter by killing deer. " In consequence of this behavior, and the expression of his countenance, I requested hinc (says Kichardson) to leave us, and to go'to the south ward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-na- ture ; he threw out some obscui^e hints of freeing himself from all restraint on. the morrow ; and I over- heard him muttering^lbreate against Hepburn, whom ,ving told stories against him. ime, assumed such a tone of g me, as evinced that he eon- lely i^^is power ; and he gave atred toward the white he openly accused He also, for the fi superiority in addr siderwd us to b^ 30iif vent to several expressi I )eople, some of whom, ^^^^<^) ^^d killed and eaten lis uncle and two of ht^^lations. In -short, taking every circnia stance of h» conduct into consideration, I came to the conclusion that he would attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his ignorance of his way to the Fort, but that he would never suiFer us to go thither in company with him. Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist evMi an open attack, nor could we by any device esc^e from him — our united strength was far inferior to his ; and, beside his gun, he was armed with two pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. " In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was some tripe de roche, he halted, and said he would gather it while we went on, and that he would soon overtake us. " Hepburn and I were now left together for the fii*st time since Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with several material circumstances, which lie had observed of Michel's behavior, and which confirmed me in the opinion that there was no safety for us except in his death, and he offered to be the instrument of it. I de- termined, however, as I was thoroughly convinced of the necessity of-«uch a dreadful act, to take the wholo responsibility upon myself; and immediately upon Mi %. m PKOGRESS OF ABTTIO DISCOVERT. '* chel's coming up, I put an end to. his life by shootintf bim through the head with a pietol. Had my own lite alone been threatened," observes Richardson, in conclu- sion, "i would not have purchased it by such a measure, but I considered myselt as intrusted also with the pro- tection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane attei - tions and devotedn^s, bad so endeared himself to me, that I felt more anxiety fos his safety than for my own. " Michel had gathered no trip< dent to us that he had halted k)] roohe^ and it was evi- urpose v')f putting of attacling us — encamping." raey as Vefl as the l^i^iknbs would permit, they his gun in order with the inten perhaps while we were in the ac Persevering onward i^thei " Buow storms and their fe " " saw several herds of deer'^fbuf Hepburn, who used to be a good marksman, was il^unalble to hold the guu straight. Following the traclr of a wolverin«iwhich had been dragging something, he however found the spine of a deer which it had dropped. It was clean picKed, and at least one season old, but they extracted the spinal marrow from it. A species of comicularia, a kind of lichen, was also m^ with, that was found good to eat when moistened aira toasted over the fire. They had still some pieces of singed buffalo hide remaining, and Hepburn, on one occasion, killed a partridge, after firing several times at a flock. About dusk of the 29th they reached the Fort. "JUpon entering the desolate dwelling, we had the satisfaction of enabracing Oapt. Franklin, but no words can convey an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our eyes on looking around. Gur own misery had stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the contemplation of each other's emaciated figures; but the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and sepulchral voices of Captain Franklin and those with him were more than we could at first bear." ■i Thus ends the narrative of Richardson's journey. ^ To resume the detail of proceedings at the Fort. On the l«t of November two of the Canadians, Pfeltier and Samandre, died from sheer exhaustion. franklin's fibst land expedition. S3 On the 7th of November they were relieved from their privations and sufferings by the arrival of tliree Indians, bringing a supply of dried meat, some fat, and a few tongues, which nad been sent off by Back with all haste from Akaitcho's encampment on the 5th. These Indians nursed and attended them with the greatest care, cleansed the house, collected fire-wood, and studied every means for tkeir general comfort. Their sufferings were now at im end. On the 26th of Noveni ber thev arrived at thjS encampment of the Indian chief, Akaitcho. On the 0i of December Belanger and an- other Canadian arrived, bringing further supplies, and letters from England, iflrom ]N&. Sack, and their former companion, Mr. "WentzeL? The dispatches from En^g^nd announced the success- ful terminojtton of Captain Carry's voyage, and the pro- motion of €ptptain FranHin, Mr. Back, and of poor Mr. Hood. On the 18th they reached the Hudson's Bav Compa- ny's establishment at Moose Deer Island, where they joined their friend Mr. Back. They remained at Fort Chipewyan until June of the following year. It is now necessary to relate the story of Mr. Baol^'s journey, whicn, like the rest, is a sad tale of suffering and privation. Having been directed, on the 4th of October, 1821, to proceed with St Germain, Belanger, and Beaupar- lant to Fort Enterprise, in the hopes of obtaining relief for the part^he set out. Up to the 7th they met with a little triple roche^ but tms failing them thev wei© compelled to satisfy, or rather allay, the cravings of hunger, by eating a gun-cover and a pair of old shoes. The grievous disappointment experienced on arriving at the house, and finding: it a deserted ruin, cannot be told. ^ "Without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of every resource, we felt ourselves," says Mr. Back, " re- duced to the most miserable state, which was rendered still worse from the recollection that our friends in the rear were as miserable as ourselves. For the moment, D \" 84 PROGRESS OF ARC TIO DISCOVKRY. however, hunger provailed, and eacli hcsan to j^aw the scraps of putrid and frozen moat and sKin tliat were lying about, without waiting to prepare them." A fire was, however, afterward made, and the neck and bones of a deer found in tlie house were boiled and devoured < Ai>pr resting a day at the house, Mr. Back pushed on with his companions in rcarch of the Indians, leaving a note for Captain Franklin, informing him if he failed in meeting with the Indians, he ii^nded to push on for the firet trading establishment^- distant about 130 miles — and send us succor from fbence. On the lltb he set out on the journey, a few old skins having been first collected to serve as food. On the 13th and 14th of October they had nothing whatever to eat. Belanger^yas sent off with a note to Franklin. On the 15th they were fortuna^ enough to fall in with a partridge, the bones of which were eaten, and the remainder reserved for bait to fish with. Enough tripe de roc he was, however, gathered to make a meal. Beauparlant now lingered oehind, worn out by extreme weakness. On the 17th a number of crows, perched on some high pines, led them to believe that Bo;[^e carrion was near ; and on searching,, several heads of deer, half buried in the snow and ice, without eyes or tongues, were found. An expression of " Oh, merci- ful God, we are saved," broke from them both and with feelings more easily imagined than described, they shook hands, not knowing what to say for joy. St. Germain was sent back, to bring up j^eauparlant, for whose safety Back became very anxious, out he found the poor fellow frozen to death. The night of the 17th was cold and clear, but they could get no sleep. " From the pains of having eaten, we suffered (observes Back) the most excruciatmg tor- ^ ments, though I in particular did not eat a quarter of ' what would have satisfied me ; it might have been from having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs ot deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so great was our hunger." On the following day Belanger returned famishing fABRV 8 Fllttir VOVAOB. It were A fire I bones iroured- }hed on aving a Eiiled in 1 on for ►ut 130 he lltb ig been nothing I note to lOUgh to re eaten, jh with, to make «rorn out of crowB, ieve that •al heads out eyes merci- and with ed, they iparlant, but he )ut they g eaten, ,ting tor- .larter of een from ms of the iloing, so cmishinflf vvith hunger, and told of the i)itiablo state of Franklin and his reduced party. Baclc, both this day and tlio next, tried to urge on his companions toward the object of their journey, but he could not conquer their itub- born determinations. They said they were unable to proceed from weakness ; knew not the way ; that I3ack wanted to expose them again to death, and in fact loi- tered greedily about the remnants of the deer till the end ot the month. " It was not without the gi-eatest difficulty that I could restrain the men from eating ev- ery scrap they found ; though mey were well aw;are of the necessity there was of being economical in our pres- ent situation, and to save whatever they could for our joui-ney, yet they could not resist the temptation ; and whenever my back was turned they seldom failed to snatch at the nearest piece to them, whether cooked or raw. Having collected with great care, and by self- denial, two small packets of dried meat or sinews suffi- cient (for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for eight days, at the rate of one indifterent meal per da}', * they set out on the 30th. On the 3d of November they came on the track of Indians, and soon reached the tents of Akaitcho and his followers, when food was obtained, and assistance sent off to Franklin. In July they reached York Factory, from whence they had started three years before, and thus tenninated a journey of 6660 miles, during which human courage and patience were exposed to trials such as few can ' bear with fortitude, unless, as is seen in Franklin's in- teresting nanmive, arising out of reliance on the ever- sustaining care of an Almighty Providence. Parry's First YoYAaE, 1819-1820. The Admiralty having determined to continue the progress of discovery in the Arctic seas, Lieut W. E. rarry, who had been second in command under Capt. Ross, in the voyage of the previous year, was selected to take charge of a new expedition, consisting of the Heel a and Griper. The chief object of this voyage was to puraue th? survey of Lancaster Sound, and decide 86 rROOBEgg OF ARCTIC DISCOVKRY. on the probability of a northwest passage ri V' »»* Jiroc- tion; railing in which, Smith's and Jo k' B<''un(].-» were to be explored, with the same purpose itt view. The respective officers appointed to the efaius, were — Hecla^ 375 tons : Lient. and Commander — W. E. Parry. Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey. ■ Captain — E. Sabine, K. A., Astronomer. Purser — W. H. Hoojber. Surgeon — John Edwards. Assistant Surgeon — Alexander Fisher. Midshipmen — James Clarke Eoss, J. Nias, W. J Dealy, Charlea Palmer, John Bushnan. Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; G. Craw- furd, mate. 44 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 68. Orijper^ 180 tons : Lieutenant and Commander — Matthew Liddon. ''^ Lieutenant — H. P. Hoppner. Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. Midshipmen — A. Keid, A. M. Skene, "W. N Griffiths. Greenland Pilots — George Fyfe, master ; A. Eld mate. ^^»^ 28 Petty Officers, Seamen, &o. ^ *• > Total complement, 36. ^ The ships were raised upon, strengthened, and well found in stores and provisions for two years. On the 11th of May, 1819, tney .got away from the Thames, and ailer a tair passage feU in with a considerable quan- tity of ice in the middle of Davis' Straits about the 20th of June ; it consisted chiefly of fragments of ice- bergs, on the outskirts of the glaciers that form along the shore. After a tedious passage through the floes of ice, effected chiefly by heaving and warping, they arrived at Possession Bay on the morning of the Slst 1 paart'b Fuurr voyaob. 87 of July, being jnst a month earlier than thoj were here on the previous year. As many as fifty whales were seen here in the course oi a few hours. On land- ing, they were not a little astonished to find their own footprints of the previous year, still distinctly viHible in the snow. During an excursion of three or four miles into the interior, a fox, a raven, several ring-plovers and snow-buntings, were seen, as also a bee, from which it may be inferr^ that honejr can be procured even in these wild regions. Vegetation flourishes remarkably well here, considering the hiHi latitude, for wherever there was moisture, tufts ana various ground plants grew in considerable abundance. Proceeding on from hence into the Sound, they veri- fied the opinion which had previously been entertained by many of the officers, that M Uroker Jfotmtaina had no existence, for on the 4th of August, the ships were in long. 86° 66' W., three degrees to the ^istward of where land had been laid down by Koss in the pre- vious year. The strait was named after Sir John JUar- row, and was found to be pretty clear ; but on reach- ing Leopold Island, the ice extended in a compact body to the north, through which it was impossible to pene- trate. Bather than remain inactive, waiting for the dissolution of the ice, Parry determined to try what could be done by shaping his course to the southward, through the magnificent inlet now named Eegent In- let About the 6th of August, in consequence of the local attraction, the ordinary compasses became use- less from thdr great variation, and the binnacles were removed from the deck to the carpenter's store-room as useless lumber, the azimuth compasses alone remain- ing ; and these became so sluggish in their motions, that they required to be verv nicely leveled, and fre- quently tapped before the card traversed. The local at- traction was very great, and a mass of iron-stone found on shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The ships proceeded 120 miles from the entrance. On the 8th of August, in lat. T2° 13' N., and long. 90° 29' W., (his extreme point of view Parry named 88 PROORKBS OF ABCTIC DfSCOVERT. * Cape Kater,) the Hecla came to a compact barrier of ice extending across the inlet, which rendered one of two alternatives necessary, either to remain here until an opening took place, or to return again to the nortli- ward. The latter course was determined on. Making, therefore, for the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, on the 20th a narrow channel was discovered between the ice and the land. On the 22d, proceeding due west, after passing several bays and headlands, they noticed two large openings or passages, the first of which, more than eight leagues in width, he named Wellington Channel. To various capes, inlets, and groups of isl- ands passed. Parry assigned the names of Hotham, Barlow, Comwallis, Bowen, By am Martin, Griffith, Lowther, Bathurst, &c. On the 28th a boa« was sent on shore at Byam Martin Island with Capt. Sabine, Mr. J. 0. Ross, and the surgeons, to make owservations, and collect specimens of natural history. The vegeta- tion was rather luxuriant for these regions; moss in particular grew in abundance in the moist valleys and along the oanks of the streams that flowed from the hills. The ruins of six Esquimaux huts were observed. Tracks of reindeer, bears, and musk oxen were noticed, and the skeletons, skulls,^ and horns of some of these animals were found. On the 1st of September, they discovered the large and fine island, to which Parry has given the name of Melville Island after the First Lord of the Admiralty of that day. On the following day, two boats with a garty of officers were dispatched to examine its shores, ome reindeer and musk oxen were seen on landing, but being startled by the sight of a dog, it was found impossible to get near them. There seemed here to be a great quantity of the animal tribe, for the tracks of bears, oxen, ana deer were numerous, and the horns, skin, and skulls were also found. The burrows of foxes and field-mice were observed; several ptarmigan were shot, and flocks of snow-bunting, geese, and ducks, were noticed, probably commencing their migration to a milder climate. Along the beach there was an im- parry's first voyage. mense number of small shrimps, and yarioua kinds of shells. On the 4th of September, Parry had the satisfaction of crossing the meridian of 110° W., in the latitude of 74° 44' 20", by which the expedition became entitled to the reward of £5000, granted by^an order in Coun- cil upon the Act 68 Geo. III., cap. 20, entitled, "An Act for more effectually discovering the longitude at sea, and encouraging attempts to find a northern pas- sage between the Aflantic and Pacific Oceans, and to approach the North Pole." This fact was not announced to the crews until the following day ; to celebrate the event they gave to a bold cape of the island then lying in sight the name of Bounty Cape ; and so anxious were they now to press forward, that they began to calculate the time when they should reach the longi- tude of 130° W., the second place specified byjhe order in Council for reward. On the afternoon oPthe 6th, the compactness of the ice stopped them, and therefore, for the nrst time since leaving England, the anchor was let go, and that in 110° W. longitude. A boat was sent on shore on the 6th' to procure turf or peat for fuel, and, strangely enough, some small pieces of tolerably good coal were found in various places scattered over the surface. A party of officers that went on shore on the 8th killed several grouse on the island, and a white hare ; a fox, some jfeld-mice, seveml snow-bunting, a snowy owl, and four musk oxen were seen. Ducks, m small nocks, were seen along the shore, as well as several glaucous gulls and tern, and a solitary seal was observed. As the ships were coasting along on the 7th, two herds of musk oxen were seen grazing, at the distance of about three-quarters of a mile from the beach : one nerd consisted of nine, and the other of fiv^ of these cattle. They had also a distant view of tv o reindeer. The average weight of the hares here is about eight pounds. Mr. Fisher, the surgeon, from whose interest- m^ ^journal I quote, states that it Is very evident that this island must be frequented, if not constantly inhab- % * \ 90 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ited, by musk oxen in great numbers, for their bones and horns are found scattered about in all directions, and the greatest part of the carcass of one was discovered on one occasion. The skulls of two carnivorous ani- mals, a wolf and a lynx, were also picked up here. A party sent to gather coals brought on board about half a bushel — all they could obtain. On the morning of the 10th, Mr. Gleorge Fyfe, tiio master pilot, with a party of six men belonginff to the . Griper, landed with a view of making an explpringtrip of some fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. They only took provisions for a day with them. Great un- easiness was felt that they did not return ; and when two days elapsed, fears began to be entertained for their safety, and it was thougjit. they must have lost their way. Messrs. Reid, (midshipman) Beverly, (assistant sur- geon) aiil "Wakeman (clerk) volunteered to go in search of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their way ; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibited, th6y returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends. Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent out on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search, and one of them fell in with and brought back four of the wanderers, and another the remaining three before ni^tfall. The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and they were all wearied and worn out with their wander- ings. It appears they had all lost their way the eve- ning of the day they went out. With regard to food, they were by no means badly off, for they managed to kill as many grouse as they could eat. , They found fertile valleys and level plains in the in- terior, abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of fresh water, about two miles long by one broad, in which were several species of trout. ' They saw several herds of reindeer on the plains, and two elk ; also many hares, b^ no musk ©xen. Some of those, however, who bad been in search of the stray party, noticed herds of these cattle. ^ PAKRY S FIB8T VOYAOrE. dH The winter now began to set in, and the packed ice was so thick, that fears were entertained of being locked up in an exposed position on the coast ; it was, there- fore, thought most prudent to put back, and endeavor to reach the harbor which had been passed some days before. The vessels now got seriously buffeted among the floes and hummocks of ice. The Griper was forced aground on the beach, and for some time was in a very critical position. Lieutenant Liddon having been con- fined to his cabin by a rheumatic complaint, was pressed at this juncture by Commander Parry to allow himself to be removed to me Hecla, but he nobly refused, stating that he should be the last to leave the ship, and contin- ued giving orders. The beach being sand, the Griper was got off without injjiry. On the 23d of September they anchored off the mouth of the harbor, and the thermometer now fell to 1°. The crew were set to work to cut a channel through the ice to the shore, and in the course of three days, a canal, two and a half miles in length, was completed, through which the vessel was tracked. The ice was eight or nine inches thick. An extra allowance of pre- served meat was served out to the men, in considera- tion of their hard labor. The vessels were unrigged, and every thing made snug and secure for passing the winter. Captain Parry gave the name of the Is orth Georgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty. Xing George III., but this has since b«rn changed to the Parry Islands. Two reindeer were killed on the ist of October, and several white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was killed, which weighed 170 r :nds. Se> en were seen on the lOth, one of which was killed, and another se-' verely wounded. Following after thig animal, night overtook several of the sportsmen, and the usual sig- nals of rockets, lights, &c. ^v&re exhibited, to guide them, back. One, John Pearson, a marine, had his hands so frostbitten that he was obliged, on the 2d of Novemborj to have the four fingers of his leit hand am- putated. A wolf and four reindeer were ?een on the 6 iX* 92 PROGKESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVEEY. 14:th. A herd of fifteen deer were seen on the 15th; but those who saw them could not bring down any, as their fowling-pieces missed fire, from the moisture freezing on the locks. On the 17th and 18th herds of eleven and twenty respectively, were seen, and a small one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which is described as equally cunning with his brethren of the temperate regions. To make the long winter pass as cheerfully as possi- ble, pl-ays were acted, a school established, and a news- paper set on foot, certainly the first periodical publica- tion that had ever issued n*om the Arctic regions. The title of this journal, the editorial duties of which were undertaken by Captain Sabine, was "The "Winter Chronicle, or New Georgia Gazette." The first num- ber appeared on the 1st of November. On the evening of the 6th of November the farce of " Miss ill her Teens " was brought out, to the great amusement of the ships* companies, and, considering the local difiiculties and disadvantages under which the performers labored, their first essay, according to the ofiicers' report, did them infinite credit. Two hours were spent very happily in their theater on the quarter- deck, notwithstanding the thermometer outside the ship stood at zero, and within as low as the freezing point, except close to the stoves, where it was a little higher. Another play was performed on the 24:th, and so on every fortnight. The men were employed during the day in banking up the ships with snow. On the 23d of December, the officers performed " The Mayor of Garrett," which was followed by an after- piece, written by Captain Parry, entitled the " North- West Passage, or the Voyage Finished." The sun hav- ing long tiince departed, the twilight at noon was so clear that books in the smallest print could be distinctly read. On the 6th of January, the farce of " Bon Ton" v/aa performed, with the thermometer at 27° below zero. — The cold became more and more intense. On the 12th it was 51° bel( w zc -o, in the open air ; brandy froze to paeby's first voyage. 98 i the consistency of honey; when tasted in this state it left a smarting on the tongue. The greatest cold expe- rienced was on the 14th of January, when the ther- mometer fell to 52° below zero. On the 3d of Febru- ary, the sun was first visible above the horizon, after eighty-four days' abtence. It was seen from the main- top of the ships, a height of about fifty-one feet above the sea. On the forenoon of the 24th a fire broke out at the storehouse, which was used as an observatory. All hands proceeded to the spot to endeavor to subdue the flames, but having only snow to throw on it, and the mats with which tno interior was lined beingvery dry^ it was found impossible to extinguish it. The snow, however, covered the astronomical instruments and se- cured tnem from the fire, and when the roof had been pulled down the fire had burned itself out. Consider- _ able as the fire was, its influence or heat extended but" a very short distance, for several of th||^ oflficers and men were trost^bitten, and confined from their efibrts for several weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, vrho was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with Sergeant Martin, happened to be in the house at the time the fire broke out, suflfered much more severely. In their anxiety to save the d ipping needle, which was standing close to the stove, and of which they knew the value, they immediatclv ran out with it; ana Smith not having time to put on his gloves, had his fingers in half an hour so benumbed, and the animation so com- pletely suspended, that on his being taken on board L^ Mr. Edwards, and having his hands plunged into a basin of cold water, the surface of the water was im- mediatclv frozen by the intense cold thus suddenly communicated to it; and notwithstanding the most hu- mane and unremitting attention paid him by the med- ical gentlemen, it was found nocessary, some time after, to resort to the amputation of a part of four fingers "^on one hand, and three on the other. Parry adds, " the appearance which our faces prer tented at the fire was a curious one; almost every nose f H PE0GRES8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. and cheek having become quite white with frost bites, in five minutes alter being exposed to the weather, so that it was deemed necessarv for the medical gentle- men, together with some others appointed to assist them, to go constantly round while the men were woi-k ing at the fire, and to rub with snow the parts affected, in order to restore animation." The weather got considerably milder in March; on the 6th the thermometer got up to zero for the first time since the 17th of December. The observatory ^**lifeou8e on shore was now rebuilt. The vapor, which had been in a solid state on the ^ip's sides, now thawed below, and the crew, scraping off the coating of ice, removed on the 8th of March, above a hundred bucketsfull each, coritaining from five to six gallons, which had accumulated in less than a ^ month, occasioned principally from the men- 8 breath, and the steam of victuals at meals. The scur^ now broke out among the crew, and frompt measures were taken to remedy it. Captain *arry took great pains to raise mustard and cress in his cabin for the men's use. On the 30th of April, the thermoftieter stood at the freezing point, which it had not done since the 12th of September last. On the 1st of May, the sun was seen at midnight for the first time that season. A survey was now taken of the provisions, fuel, and stores; much of the lemon juice was found destroyed from the bursting in the bottles by the frost. Having been only victrialed for two years, and half that period having expired, Captain Parry, as a matter of prudence reduced aU hands to two-thirds allowance of all sorts of provisions, except meat and sugar. The crew Wfo new set to work in cutting away the ice round the siiips : the average thickness was found to be seven feet Manyk of tlie men who had been out on excursions began to suffer much from snow blinds ness. The sensation when first experienced, is de-* scribed as like that felt when dust or sand gets into, the eyes. The^ were, however, cured in the course of pakkt's first voyaoe. 05 two or three days by keeping the eyes covered, and bathing them occasionally wiUi sugar of lead, or some other cooling lotion. To prevent the recurrence of the complaint, thei<'«[ien were oi*dered to wear a piece of crape or some substi- tute for it over the eyes. The channel round the ships was completed by the 17th of May, and they rose nearly two feet, having been kept down by the pressure of the ice round them, although li^htenea during the winter by the consump- tion of fooa end fuel. On the 24:th, they were aston- ished by two showers of rain, a most extraordinary phenomenon in these reffions. Symptoms of scurvy again appeared among uie crew ; one of the seamen who had been recently cured, having imprudently been in the habit of eating the fat skimmings, or ^^ slush," in which salt meat had oeen boiled, and which was served out for their lamps. As the hills in mrny places now be- came exposed and vegetation commenceag|wo or three pieces of ground were dug up and sown ^th seeds of radishes, onions, and other vegetables. Captain Parry determined before leaving to make an excursion across the island for the |)urpoBe of examining its size, bounds aries, productions, &c. Accordingly on the Ist of June, an expedition was organized, consisting of the com- mander, Captain Sabine, Mr. Fisher, the assistant^sur- keon, Mr. J ohn Nias, midshipman of the Hecla, and Mr. Reid, midshipman of the Griper, with two ser geants, and five seamen and marines. Three weeks provisions were taken, which, together with two. tents, wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in all about 800 lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for the purpose by the men. Each of the officers carried a knapsack with his own private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs., also his gwn and ammunition. The party started in high glee, under three hearty cheers from their comrades, sixteen of whom accompanied them for five miles, carrying their knapsacks and drawing the cart for them. They traveled by night, taking icjt by day, as it woi it PKOORESS OB' ARCTIC DISCOVKRY. found to be warmer for sleep, and they bad only a cov ering of a single blanket each, beside the clotlies tbey had on. On the 2d, they came to a small lake, about half a mile long, and met with eider-ducks and ptarmigan ; seven of the latter were shot. From the top of a range of hills at which they now arrived, they could see the masts of the ships in Winter Harbor with the naked eye, at about ten or eleven miles distant. A vast plain was also seen extending to the northward and west- ward. The party breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of gruel each, made of salep powder, which was round to be a very palatable diet. Beindeer with their fawns were ' met with. They derived great assistance in dragging their cart by rigging upon it one of the tent-blankets as a sail, a truly nautical contrivance, and the wind tavoring them, they made^eat progress in this way. Captain Sabine being takefill with a bowel complaint, had to be con- veyed on this novel sail carriage. They, however, had some ugly ravines to pass, the crossings of which were -^ very tedious and troublesome. On the 7th the party came to a large bay, which was named after their ships, Hecla and Griper feay. The blue ice was cut through by hard work with boarding pikes, the only instruments they had, and after digging fourteen and a half feet, the water rushed up ; it was not very salt, but sufficient to satisfy them that it was the ocean. An island seen in the distance was named after Captain Sabine ; some of the various points and capes were also named after others of the party. Although this «hore was found blocked up with such heavy ice, there appear to be times when there is open water here, for a piece of fir wood seven and a half feet long, and about the thickness of a man's arm, was found about eighty yards inland from the hummocks of the beach, and about thirty feet above the level of the sea. Before leaving the shore, a monu- ment of stones, twelve feet high, was erected, in which were deposited, in a tin cylinder, an account of their PAKRY'» FIB8T VOYAOS. 97 ? i> ceedings, a few coins, and several naval buttons, he expeaition now turned back, shaping its course in a more westerly direction, toward some high blue hills, which had long been in sight. On many days se^«ral ptarmigans were shot. The horns and tracks of deer were very numerous. On the 11th they came in sight of a deep gulf, to which Lieutenant Liddon's name was given ; tne two capes at its entrance being called after Beechey and Hoppner. In the center was an island about three-quar- ters of a mile in length, and rising abruptly to the height of TOO feet. The shores of the gulf were very rugged and precipitant, and in descending a steep hill, the axle-tree of their cart broke, and they had to leave it behind, taking the body with them, however, for fuel. The wheels, which were left on the spot, may astonish some future adventurer who discovers them. The stores, &c., were divided among the officers and men. Making their way on the ice in the gulf,Jb^e islard in the center was explored, and named after Mr. Hoopor, the purser of the Hecla. It was found to be of sand- stone, and very barren, rising perpendicularly from the west side. Four fat geese were killed here, and a gi*eat many animals were seen around the gulf ; some atten- tion being paid to examining its shores, &c., a fine open valley was discovered, and the tracks of oxen and deer were very numerous ; the pasturage appeared to be excellent. On the 13th, a few ptarmigan and golden plover were killed. "No less than thirteen deer in one h^ were seen, and a musk ox for the first time in this s^son. The remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered about 300 yards from the beach. Vegetation now be- gan to flourish, the sorrel was found far advarced, and a species of saxifrage was met with in blossom. They reached the ships on the evening of the 15th, after a journey of about 180 miles. The ships' crews, during their absence, had been occu- pied in getting ballast in and re-stowing the hold. Shooting parties were now sent out in various direo- 'm PKOGKESB OF AliOTIC DlSCWVfiRY. tions to procure game. Dr. Fisher gives an interesting, account of his ten days' excursion with a couple of men. The deer were not so nunfieroua as they expected to find them. About thirty were seen, of which his party killed but two, which were very lean, weighing only, when skinned and cleaned, 60 to 60 lbs. .A couple of wolves were seen, and some foxes, with a ^reat many hares, lour of which were killed, weighing Irom 7 to 8 lbs. The aquatic birds seen were — brent geese, king ducks, long-tailed ducks, and arctic and glaucous gulls. The land birds were ptarmigans, ploveri^ sandenings and snow buntings. The geese were pretty numerous for the first few days, bi. got wild ana wary on being disturbed, keeping in t he middle of lakes out of gun- shot. /Vbout a dozen were, however, killed, and fifteen ptarmigans. These birds are represented to be so stm- pid, that all seen may be shot. Dr. Fisher was sur- prised on his return on the 29th of June, after hie ten days' absence, to find how much vegetation had ad- vanced ; the land being now completely clear of snow, was covered with the purple-colored saxifrage in blos- som, with mosses, and with sorrel, and the grass was two to three inches long. The men were sent out twice a week to collect the sorrel, and in a few minutes enough could be procured to make a salad for dinner. After bei'ig mixefl with vinegar it was regularly served out to tlie men. The English garden seeds that had been sown got on but slowly, and did not yield any produce in tim' to be used. — On |he 30th of June Wm. Scott, a boatswain's mate, who Had been afliicted with scurvy, diarrhoea, marks : — ^^ On an inspection of the charts I think it will also appear probable that' a communication will one day be found to exist between this inlet (Prince liegent's) and Hudson's Bav, either through the broad and unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Eoe's Wel- oeme, or through Eepulse Bay, which has not yet been satisfactorily examined. It is also probable that a chan- nel will be tbund to exist between the western land and the northern coast of America." Again, in another place, he says: — "Of the existence of a northwest passage to the Pacific it is now scarcely possible to doubt, and from the succesr which attended our efforts in 1819, after passing through Sir James Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anticipating its complete accomplishment But the season in which it is practicable to navigate the Polar JBeas does not exceed seven weekly From all that we observed it seems desir- able that ships endeavoring to reach the Pacific Ocean by this route should keep if »ossible on the coast of America, and the lower in lantude that coast may be found, the more favorable will it prove for the purpose ; hence Cumberland Strait, Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome, and Eepulse Bay appear to be the points most worthy of attention. I cannot, therefore, but consider that any expedition equipped by Great Britain with this view 102 PROOSBM OF ABCmO DI800TBRT. ought to employ its best energies in attempting to pene- trate from the eastern coast of America along its north- wn shore. In consequence of the partial success which has hitherto attend^ our attempts, the whalers have already extended tibeir views, and a new field has been opened for one of the most IncratiTe branches oi our commerce, and what is scarcely of less importance, one of the most valuable nurseries for seamen which Great Britain possesses.*^ Pleased with his former zeal and enterprise, and in order to give him im opportunity of testing the truth of his observations, a few montiis after he returned home, the Admiralty gave Parry tiie command of another ex- pedition, with instructions to proceed to Hudson's Strait, and penetrate to the westward, until in Bepulse Bay, or on some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to the north of Wa^r River, he should reach the western coast of the contment. Failing in these quarters, he was. to keep along the coast, careAilly examining every bend or imet, wmch shouM appear likely to anbrd a practicable passage to the westward. • ^e vessels commissioned, with their officers and crews, were the following. Several of the officers of the former expedition were promoted, and those who had been on the last vpyage with Parry I have marked with tlh. asterisk :— , Fwry, . Commander — ^*V.E. Parry. Chaplain and Astronomer — Bev. Geo. Fisher, (was in the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, m 1818.) Lieutenants — ^*J. Nias and *A. Beid. Surgeon — ^*J. Edwai^s. « Purser — *W. H. HoSper. Assistant-Surgeon- — Z.^\^ %^ Midshipmen — ^J. C. Boss, j'. Bushnan, J. Hender- son, F. R M. Orozier. ^li , ^ijjt PVwn^^ Firat Voyage, vol ii, p^ 940L ia?5 ^ paaby's seocnd yjoyaqk. 19& Greenland Pilots — * J. Allison, master ; G. Orawftudi . mate. 47 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 60. H&ola. Commander — G. F. I>on. Lieutenants — ^^H. P. Hoppner and *0. Palmer. Surgeon — * A. Fisher. Purser — J. Germain. • Assistant-Surgeon — A. M'Laren. Midshipmen — *W. N. Griffiths, J. Sherer, 0. Bich-. ards, £. J. Bird. Greenland Pilots — *G. Fife, master; *A. Elder, mate. 46 Petty Officers, seamen, <&c. Total complement, 58. Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had ob tained some reputation from his travels in Tripoli, Mourzoidc, and other parts of Northern Africa, and was raised to the rank of Commander, on his appointment to the Heda, and received his promotion as Captain, when the expedition returned.' The ships were accompanied as far as the ice by the Kautilns tranttport, freighted with provisions and stores, which were to be transhipped as soon as room was found for them. The yesselfl got away from the little Kore early on the 8th of May, 18^1, but meeting with strong gales off the Greenlimd coast, and a boisterous passage, did not fall in with the ice until the middle of June. On the ITth of June, in a heavy gale from the south* ward, the sea stove ai^d carrkd away one of the quar- ter boats of the Hecla. On tne following day, in lat. 60° 63' N., loB^. 61° 39' W., they made the pack or main body of ice, having many large bergs in and near it. On Ihe .19th, I&olution Island, at the en- trance of Hudson's Strait, was seen distant sixty-fpur miles. Oapt. Lyon states, that during one of the m *-• 104 FBOOBIdSS 09 ABCmO DI800TEBY. watches, a large fragment was observed to fall front an iceberg near the Hecla, which threw up the watei to a great height, sending forth at the same time a noise like the report of a ^eat gun. From this pe- riod to the 1st of July, the ships were occupied in clearing the Kautilus of her stores, preparatory to - her return home, occasionally made fast to a berg, or driven out to sea by gales. On the 2d, after running through heavy ice, they again made Resolution Island, and shaping their course for the Strait, were soon in- troducea to the company of some unusually large ice- bergs. The altitude of one was 258 feet above the Burtace of the sea ; its total height, therefore, allowing one-seventh only to be visible, must have been about 1806 feet I This however, is supposing the base un der water not to spread beyond the mass above water The vessels had scarcely drifted past this floating mountain, when the eddy tide carried them with great rapidity among a cluster of eleven bergs of huge size, and having a b^utifiil diversity of form. The largest of these was 210 feet above the water. The floe ice was running wildly at the rate of three miles an hour, swee])ing the vessels past the bergs, against any one of which, they might have received incalcu- lable injury. An endeavor was made to make the , ^hipB fast to one of them, (for all of them were aground,) in order to ride out the tide, but it proved unsuccess- % ful, and the Fury had much difficulty in sending a boat for some men who were on a small hers, making holes for her ice anchors. They were therefore swept past and soon beset. Fifty-four icebergs were counted from the mast-head. ' r a week or ten days. On one occasion, with the pros- pect of being driven on shore, the pressure they ex- perienced was so great, that five hawsers, six inches thick, were carriea away, and the best bower anchor of the Hecla was wrenched from the bows, and broke off at the head of the shank, with as much ease as if, instead of weighing upward of a ton, it had been of crockery ware. For a week they were emi.ayed by the ice, and during this period they saw thrt.<) strange ships, also beset, under Kesolution Island, which they contrived to join on the 16th of July, making fast to a floe near them. They proved to be the Hudson's Bay Company's traders, Prince of Wales, and Eddystone, with the Lord "Wellington, chartered to convey 160 natives of Holland, who were proceeding to settle on Lord Selkirk's estate, at the Red Eiver. *^ While nearing these vessels, (says Lyon,) we observed the settlors waltzing on deck, for above two hours, the men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and the women wearing long-eared mob caps, like those used by the Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and t]^ thermometer was at the freezing point, it may be supposed that this ball, al vero fresco^ afforded us much amusement." The Hudson's Bay ships had left England twenty days after the expedition. The emigrant ship had been hampered nineteen days among the ice before she joined the others ; and as this Dgvigation was new to her captain and crew, they almost despaired of ever getting to their jour- ney's end, so varied and constant had been their im- pediments. The Dutchmen had, however, behaved very philosophically during this period, and seemed determined on being merry, in spite of the weather and the dangers. Several marriages had taken place^ the surgeon, who was accompanying them to the col- .«* IM FB00BE8S OF ASCTIO DISCOVERY. oay, officiating as clergyman,) alid many more were in agitation ; each happy couple always deferring the ceremony until a fine day allowed of an erening ball, which was only terminated by a fresh breeze, or a fall of snow.^ On the 17th, the ships were separated by the ice, and they saw no more of their visitors. On the 21st, they were only off the Lower Savage Islands. In the evening they saw a very large bear lying on a piece of ice, and two boats were instantly sent off in chase. They approached very close before he took to the water, when he swam rapidly, and made long springs, turning boldly to face nis pursuers. It was with difficulty ne was captured. As these animals, although very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die, he was lashed to a boat, and brought alongside the ship. On hoisting him in, they were astonished to fina that his weight exceeded sixteen hundred pounds, being one of the largest over killed. Two instances, only, of larger bears being shot are recorded, and these were by Barentz's crew, in his third voyage, at Cherie Island, to which they gave the name of jBear Island. The two bears killed then, measured twelve and thirteen feet, while this one only measured eight feet eight inches, from the snout to the insertion of the .tail. The seamen ate the flesh without experiencing any of those baneful effects which old navigators at- tribute to it, and which are stated to have made thr^ of Barentz's people " so sick that we expected they would have died, and their skins peeled off fi*om head. to foot." Bruin was very fat, and having pro- cured a tub of blubber from the carcass, it was thrown over board, and the sm^ll soon attracted a couple of walruses, the first that had been yet setn. They here fell in with a numerous body of the Es animaux, who visited them from the shore. In less Inan an hour the ships were beset with thirty '^ka- vaks," or men's canoes, and five of the women's large boats, or " oomiaks." Some of' the latter held up- ward of twenty women. A most noj^y but merry barter instantly took place, the crew being as anxious * Lyon's Private Journal, p. 11. ^zM: pabkt'b suoond voyaok. • t lOT to purchase EBqnimaux curiosities, m tlie nfttivM were to procure iron and European toys. ''^ It is quite out of my power, (obeerres Oaptain Lyon,) to describe the shouts, yells, and laughter otl the savages, or the confusion which existed for two or three hours. The lemales were at first very shy, and unwillinff to come on the ice, but bai*tered every thing from their boats. This timidity, however, soon wore off, and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois- terous as the men." " It is scarcely possible, (he adds) to conceive any thins more ugly or diseustin^ than the countenances of the old women, who had inlamed eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and, in fact, such a forbidding set of features as scarcely could be called human ; to which might be added their dress, which was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang* outangs. Frobisher^s crew may be pardoned for hav- ing, in such superstitious times as a. d. 1576, taken one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said, *• The old wretch whom our sailors supposed to be a witch, had her buskins pulled ' off, to see if she was cloven-footed ; and being very vgi^J aiid deformed). we let her go.'" «: h>iv h In bartering they have a singular custom of rati^- ing the bargain, by licking the article aU over before it is put away in security^. Captain Lyoii says he fre- quently shuddered at seeing the children draw a razor over their tongue, as unconcernedly ae if it had been an ivory paper-knife. I cannot forbear quoting here some humoiH>ua passages from his journal, whicb stand out in relief to toe scientific and nautical par^ of the narrative^ *^ The strangers were so well pleased in our society, that they showed no wis^ to leave us, and when the market had quite ceased, they began dancing and playing with our people, on the ice alongside. This, exercise set many of their noses bleeding, and discQiF- ered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the blocid ran d^wn, they scraped it with t^ %il»l9 0. 10§ H pitooBKes or AKcriio Di«oovxar. into their moathe, appearing to consider it as a re- freshment, or dainty, if we might judge bj the x»8t with whicn they smacked their lips at each supply." « #» # » » # ♦ *' In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much as possible, the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he instantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of whom some of the women kept pretty good time. Their only figure consisted in Btampins and jumping with all their might. Our musician, "^o was a lively fellow, soon caught the infection, and began cutting capers also. In a short time every one on the floe, officers, men, and savages, were dancing together, and ezliibited one of the most extraordinary sights I ever witnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy complexion, excited the admiration of all the young females, who patted his face, and danced around him wherever he went. ** The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esqui- maux, that they had the appearance of being boister- ously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks. Amone others, it was a favorite {oke to run slily be- hind the seamen, and shouting loudly in one ear, to give them at the same time a very smart slap on the other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the great amusement of the bystanders : our cook, who was a most active and unwearied lumper, became so great a favorite, that every one ooxed his ears so soundly, as to oblige the poor man to retire from such boisterous marks of approbation. Amone other sports, some of the Esquimaux rather rougnly, but with great good humor, challenged our people to wrestle. ^ One man, in particular, who had thrown sev- eral of his countrymen, attacked an officer of a very strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown, and with no verv easy fall ; yet, although every one was laughing at mm, he bore it with exemplary godd humor. The same officer afforded us much diversion by teaching a large party of^women to iSw, courtesy • ^i PABBY'ft HKUOMD VOYAOK. 109 shake bands, turn tb«ir*to«8 oat, and peribrm Bnn* dry other polite accompashments ; the whole part j master and pupils, preserving the strictest grayity. r *^ Toward midnigot all our men, except -the watch on deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and hungry £8<][uimaiix returned to their boats to take their supper, which consisted of lumps of raw flesh and blub- ber of seals, birds, entrails, drc. ; licking their fingers with great sest, and with knives or fingers scraping the blood and grease which ran down their chins into their mouths." Many other parties of the natives were fallen in with during the slow progress of the ships, between Salisbury and Nottingham Islands, who were equally as eager to beg, barter, or thieve ; and the mouth was the general repository of most of the treasures they received ; nee- dles, pins, nails, buttons, beads, and other small etcete- ras, being indiscriminately stowed there, but detracting in nowise from their volubility of speech. On the 13th of Ai^st the weather being calm and fine, norwhals or sea-uiiicorns, were very numerous about the ships, and boats were sent, but without success, to strike one. There were sometimes as many as twentpr of these beautiful fish in a shoal, lifting at times their immense horn above the water, and at others showing their glossy backs, which were spotted in the manner of coac^ dogs in England. Toe leng& of these fish is about fifteen feet, exclusive of the horn, which averages five or six more. Gapt#i Parry landed and slept on Southampton Isl and. His boars crew caught m holes on the beach sufficient'"sillocks, or young coal-fish, to serve for two meals for the whole ship's company. Daring the night white whales were seen lying .in hundreds dose to the rocks, probably feeding on the sillocks. After carefully examining Duke of x ork Bay, the ships got into the Frozen Strait of Middleton on the morning of the 20th, and an anxious day was closed by passing an miening to the southward, which was found to be Sir Thomaa Roe's Welcome, and heaving to for the night off a bay no FBoojinsA or AK^no biseovxRY. to tbo northwest. The ships' got well in to RopilM Bay on the 22d, and a carenil eiamination of iti soores was made by the boats. < '■ Captains Parry and Lyon, with sereral offleers ft*om 0Bi;h ship, landed and explored the northern shores, while a boat examined the head of tli#l>ay. The wa- ters of a long eoYe are described by Oaptain Lyon aa being absolutely hidden bv the qnantul6a^,af yonng eide]>dnck8, which, nnder tne direction of th^ir moth« ers, were making theit first essays in swimming. Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip oi a conple of days along some of the indents of the bay, andf discovered an inlet, which, however, on being en- tered snbsequentiv by the ships, proved only to be the dividing channel oetween an island and the main4and, about SIX miles in length by one in breadth. Proceed- ing to the northward by Kurd's channel, they expe- rienced a long rolling ^ound swell setting aeainst them. On the 28th, ascending a steep mountain, Captai)t Lyon discovered a noble bay, subsequently named Gor i >* Bay, in which lay a few islands, and toward this then directed their course. Captain Parry, who had been two days absent wif!i boats exploring the channel and shores of the strait, iw turned on the 29th, but set oft' again on tile same day with six boats to sound and examine more mintitelr^.. When Parry retultied at ni^ht, Mr. Griffiths, of tbe Heda, brought on board a large doe, which he had' killed while swimming (among large masses of ice) fro/Br isle to isle ; two others and a fawn were prodjfred ■ lit tho general good.^ *^ In the animals of this day (ob- Bcrvea lo^on) we wero convinced Ibat our sporteinon had^ot fofflrotten the latitude to which their perquisites might legauy extend, for the necks were made so long as to encroach •oonsiderably on the vertebrss of the back : a manner of amputating the heads which had been learned daring the former voyage, and, no doubt* would be strictly acted up to in th^ present one.'' -t'-J ' While the ships on the 80th were proceeding through 4lii8 strait, having to contend with heayy wind and wild ice, which with an impetuous tide ran against the rocks with loud crashes, at the rate of five knots in the center stream; four boats towing astern were torn away by the ice, and, with the men in them, were for some time in great danger. The vessels anchored for the night in a small nook, and weighing at daylight on the 31st, they stood to the eastward, but Gore Bay was found closdyv' packed with ice, and most of the in^ lets they passeoVere also beset. ^ A prevalence of fog, northerly wind, and heavy ice in floes of somb miles in circumference, now carried the ships, in spite of constant labor and exertions, in three days, back to the very spot in Fox's Channel, where a month ago they had commenced their opera- tions. It was not till the 5th of Seutember, that they could again gefrforwardf and iJien % one of the usual changes in the navigation of these seas, the ships ran well to the northeast 'unimpeded, at the rate of six knots a$ hour, anchoring for the nisht at the mouth of a large ;opening, which was namea Lyon Inlet. The next da^ th^ proceeded about twenty-five miles up this inlet, which appeared to be about eight miles broad. Captain Parry pushed on with two boats to examine the head of the inlet, taking provisions for a week, lie returned on the 14th, having failed in finding any outlet to the place he haid been examining, which was very extensive, full of fiords and rapid overfells of the tide. lie had procured a sufficiency of game to afibrd his pec^le a hot supper every evening, which, after the constant labor of the da f , was highly acceptable. He M •iH # 112 ?B0GBE8S OF ASCnO DISOOVEU^.^* I •; •r* fell in also with a small party of natives m Ik> displayed the usual thievins ,pFop|ensitie8. Animal food ot all kinds was found to bo very plen- tiful in this locality. A fine salmon trout was brought down by one of the officers from a lake in the moun- tains. The crew of the Heda killed in a fortnight four deer, forty hares, eighty-two ptarmigan, fifty ducks, three divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, er- mines, marmottes, mice, &e. Two of the seals killed wore immense animals of the bearded species (Phoca harbcUa^ very fat, weighing about eisht or nine cwt; the others were the common species, p^. vituUna.) Captain Parry again left in boats, on the 15th, to ex- amine more carefuSy the land that had been passed so rapidly on the 5th and 6th. Kot finding him return on the 24th, Captain Lyon ran down the coast to meet him, and by burning blue lights, fell in with him at ten that night.. It appeared he had been frozen up for two days on the second evenii^ after leaving. When he got clear he ran down to, and sailed round, Gore Bay, at that time perfectly clear\,of ice, but by the next morning it was quite filled with heavy pieces, which much impeded his return. Once more he was frozen up in a small bay, where he was detained' three days ; when, finding there was no chance of getting out, in consequeiiie of Jhe rapid formation of ypuuff ice, by ten hours' severe labor, the boats were carried over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide, and once more launched. # On the 6th of October, the impediments of ice con- tinuing to increase, being met with in all |ts formations of sludges or young ice,, pancake ice and bay ice, a small open bay "within a cape of land, forming the southeast extremity of an island off Lyon Inlet, was sounded, and being found to be safe anchorage the ships were brought in, and, from the indications which were setting in, it was finally determined to secure them there for the winter ; by means of a cunal half a mile long, which was cut, they were taken further into the bay. The island was named Winter Isle. Preparations were now made for occupation and '•■■ . •' '» . ^ parry'b seoond yotaob. 118 luniiBement, so as to pass away pleasantly the period of detention. A ^ood stoek of tne|trical dresses and {)ropertie8 having been laid in by ^he ofEicers before eaving England, arrangements were made for perform- ing plays fortnightly, as on their last winter residence, as a means of amusing the seamen, and in some degree to break the tedious monotony of their confinement. As there could be no desire or hoi^ jL^KceUiog, every officer's name was readily entei^p^fla the list of dra- matis peraonWy Captain Lyon ]^dly undertaking the difficuU office of manager. Those ladies (says Lyon^ who had cherished the growth of their beards sua whiskers, as a defense against the inclemency of the climate, now generously agreed to do away with such unfeminine ornaments, and every thing bade fair for a most stylish theater. As a curiosity, I may here put on record the play bill for the evening. I have added the ship to which each officer beldl^ed. THEATER ROYAL, ^ *^ * WINTEB ISLE. The Public are respectfully iuformed tbat this little, .. yetHlegant Theater, will open for the season on Fri- I day next, the 9th of ilove]||ber,%21, when will be y^ performed Sheridan's celebrated Comedy of THE RIVALS. Sir Anthony Absolute Captain Parry, (^t^ry.) Captain Absolute - - Captain Lyon, ju5?«cZa.) Sir Lucius OWrigger^ Mr. Crozier, {^ury^ Faulkland^ - - - - Mr. J. Edwards, (Fury^ Acres^ ------ J|j[r. J. Henderson, {Fv/ry^ Fay^ ------ Lieut. Uoppner, {Hecla^ Da^id, ------ Lieut. Reid, (Fitrv,^ Mrs. Jfalapropj - . - Mr. C. Richards, Ifiecla.) Julia, ----- Mr. W. H. Hooper, {Fury.) Lydia Languish^ - - Mr. J. Sherer, {Mecla.) Lucy, - - - - - 'M.r.'W.'M.ogg,{crkqfMecla.) iU PBoCHuaM OF Asano disoo' S('- '^' > SoBgfiT %»T Metso. 0«, Palmer, (Heclaj) and J. H^- \ d#if80% will be jjlbrodiieed in tb« course ci thtf eve- On tbe IttH of I)eceml)er, a sMvering set of actors ■petSefnaed to a great-coated, yet very cold audience. the e&medj of the " Poor Geiitlenaan.*' A bttr^l of true EDglisHlltillltens esthibited dnring the jperfdrm toce of tliis P^y^^^PJJ^ scene -wher^i iteUt. W'o^th- ington Bxid, &r^oreM|^(7«9 reconnt in bo animated a manner their former ^hievementd, advancing iat the same time, and huzzaing for ^^ Old England," the whole attdien>ce, with one accord, rose and gave three most heart j cheere. They then sat down, and th^ pl^ continued uninterrupted. ''^" . On Christmas Evej in order to keep the people ^uiet and sober, two fartses were performed, and the phantasmagoria, (which had been Jjjbidly |>res6nted anonymouwy to the ships before leimng, by a lady,) exhibited, so thaA the nigl^ passed m^rtily away. The coldness of th^ weather proved no bar to the performance of a play at the appointed time. If it amused the seamen, the purpose was answered, but it was a cruel task to performers. HIn ottr green^roona^ (says Lyon,ywhi^ was as much warmed as ai^ other part of the Thea A, th^^erslimeter ^tood at 16®, and on a table which was placed over a stove, and about six inches above it, the cofiee froze in the cups. For my sins, I was obliged to be dressed in the h^isht of the fashion, as I>iok Dowlas, in the "Heir at Law," and went nirough the last scene of-^J^e play with two of my fingers frost-bitten^ Let t^se who have m, witnessed and admired the performances of a Young, * answer if he could possibly ha/e stood so cold a recep- tion." ■■ ■ ■■■■ ■" / ,' / .-v^-n Captain Parry also states in his Journal, "Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratifica* tion to several among us, I may mention the musical oarties we were enabled to muster, and which assem- bled on stated evenings throughout the winter, alter , 1 ■; ^ PABBV'b BKCONP YOYAOJk 115 *• Bfttelj in Commander Lyon*hisfar4i<3tant home.' There are always some isemembran^es which, render them inseparable, and tiliose associations are not to be despised, which, while lire are engaged in the performance of our duty, can stUl occasionally transport us into the social circle of our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll be- jtweon us." ]^]^t their attention was not confined to more amusemints. Much to the credit of the seamen, im applioation was f&ade in each ship for i>ermission to open an evening school, which was willinffly ac- ceded to. Almost every man could read, and some 4!|ould write a little, but several found that, from long disuse, it was requisite to begin a^ain. A^Halse volunteered to supermtend the classes in iheFury ; whUfi Benjamin Whitefaieaman, who had been ,#dncat$d at Christ's Hospital, officiated as schoolmaster in the Heda, and those best qualified to assist aided in the instruction of Iheit shitHuates, who made rapid pFOgresB under their tuition. On Christmas Day, Capt Lyon statesjij|at he received sixteen copies firom men, who, two xSKltiaA be|pre, scarcely knew their letters. l^hese- little speciinens were all well written, and sent with as much pride as if the, writers had been good j^little schoolboys, instead of stout and excellent seamen. , An observatory was erected on shore, for carrying >on magnetical, astronomical, and other scientific opera- ^|ith of October; and. above one hundred were ae PB00RE8B OF AKCTIO DffiOOVBST. e(Hier trapped or killed in the oonrse of liired' m^nllis, and yet there seewd but little diminution in their numbers. Oaptain^yon says he found them not bad eating, the flesn much resembling that of kid. A pack of thirteen wolves came occasionally to hare a look at the ships, and on one occasion broke into a, snow-house alongside, and walked off with a couple of Esquimaux dogs confined there. Bears now and thrai i^ maide their appearance. A. Tory beautiful ermine waUced on board the Heda one day, and was caught in a small trap placed on the i deck, certainly the first of these animals which was ever taken alive on board a ship 400 yards from the land. The ravenous propensities of even some of the smaUest members of tne animal kingdom are exempli- fied by the following extract : — '' We had for some time observed that in the fire- hole, which was kept qpen in the ice a^gside, a count- less multitude of small shrimps wer& constantly rising near the surface, and we soon found that in twenty-four hours they would deaUj in the most beautifol manner, the skeletons.'' * • After attending divine service on Christmas day, the officers and crews sat down to the luxury of joii|^ts of English roast beef, which had been kept untaiiiHd by being frozen, and tile outside nibbed with salt. C^n- berry pies and puddings, <^ every shape and size, wi& a full allowance of spirits, followed, and, probably the natural attendance of headaches succeeaed^ for the next morning it was deemed expedient to send all th6 pe(^le for a ran on the ice, in ordeR^fc put them to rights ; but thick weather con^H^ o% iHecame neces- sary to recall them, and, postponing the dinner hour, they were all danced sober by one o'clock^ l^e fiddler .being, fortunately, quite as he should be. Inuring this curious ball, a witty fellow attended as an old cake woman, with lumps of frozen snow in a bucket ; and 8ucb was the demiuid for his pies on this occasion, that he was obliged to replenish pretty frequently. The year had now place with this tribe, '^mch, singularly enough, were proverbial for their honesty. Ultimately, nowever, they began to display some thievish propensities, lor on one evening in March a most shocking theft was committed, which was no less than the last piece of English corned beef from the midshipmen's mess. Had it been an 181b. carronade, or even one of the an- chors, the thieves would have been welcome to it ; but to purloin English beef in such a country was unpar- donable. On the 15th of March Captain Lyon, Lieutenant palmer, and a partj of men, left the ship, with pro* vision^ tents, &c., m a large sledge, for an excursion of three or four days, to examine the land in the neigh- borhood of tiie ships. The firstflttit's engunpment was anything but com- fortable, ^^^r tenfMiey found so cold, that it was determined to make a cavern in the snow to sleep in ; and digging this afibrded so good an opportunity of warming themselves, that the only shovel was lent from one to the other as a particular favor. After digging it of sufficient size to contain them all in a sitting pos- ture, by means of the smoke of a fire they managed tP raise the temperature to 20^^, and, clpsiug the entranco Ml PB0OBKS6 or AROnO TO0OOVBRY. wiiih blocks oi enow, crept into their blanket bags and triflKl to Bleep, witii tk» pleasant refleetioa that their roof might mU in dfed bury them all, and that their dne »pade was the 0DI7 means of liberation after a night's drift of snow. * Thej woke next morning to enoonnter a heavy gale and drifts and found their sledge so embedded in the snow that lAiey conld not get at it, and In the attempt tiieir feces and extremities were most painfollj Mst- bitteo. The thermometer was at 82° below zero ; thej conld not) moreover, see a yard of l^e road ; yet to re- main appeared worse than to go forward — the last >lan was, therefore, decided on. Hie ^int, sledge, and were left behind, and with only a few pounds of Bread, a little mm, and a spade, the party again set out ; and in order to depict their simerings, I must take up l^e narrative as related by Ihe commander himself: • : "Not knowing where to go, we wandered amonff the heavy hummo<^ of ice, and f uffering from cold, fetigud imd anxiety, were soon colmpletely bewildered. Several of our party now beean to exhibit symptoms of that horrid kind of insensibility which is the pre- lude to sleep. They all professed extreme willingness to do what they were tola in order to keep in exercise, but ndtie obeyed ; on the contrary, they reeled about like drunken men. The faces of several were sevwely frost^biUen, and some had for a considerable time lost sensation in their fingers and toes ; yet they made not the sli^test exertion to rub the parts affiscted, aM even discontinued the'jr general custom of wanping each other on observing a discoloration of ^| skin. Hr. ]Palm^ employed 3ie pteple inJmildingJH snow wall, ostensibly as a shditer myth. tlVwind, but in &ct to give them exercise, when standing still must have proved fetal to men in our circumstances. My atten- tion was exdusively directed to Serjeant Speckman, who, haviiMf been repeatedlv warned that his nose was, frozen, haa paid no attention to it, owing to the state of stupefection into which he had fallen. The frost* bit@ h#d now extei^d^i) pver one f>id<» of his face, which' n b€ r i4rAMnr'B 8B00ND VOTAOB. «*« 119 was ivoma as hard as a mask ; the ejvlids were stift^ and oue comer of the upper lip so drawn up as to expose the teeth and gums* My hands being still warm, I had the happiness of restoring the eircuTation, after whidi I used all my endeavors to keep the poor fellow in motion ; bnt he complained sadly of giddi- ness and dimness of sight, and was so weak as to be unable to walk without assistance. His case was so alarming, tiiat I expected every moment he would lie down, never to rise again. , "Our prosit now became every moment more gloomy, and it was but too probable that four of our party would be unable to survive another hour. Mr. ralmer, however, endeavored, as well as myself, to cheer the people up, but it was a fieiint attempt, as we had not & single hope to give them. Every piece of ioe, or even of small rock or stone, was now supposed to be the ships, and we had great difficulty in prevent- ing the men from runnlag to the different objects which attracted them, and consequently losing themselves in the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer was running round us to warm himsdf^ he suddenly pitched on a new beaten track, and as exercise was indispensable, we determined on following it, wherever it might lead us. Having taken the Sergeant under my coat, he re- covered a little, and we moved onward, when to our infinite joy we found that the path led to the ships." As tlie^esult of this exposure, one man had two of his fingeilnB^adly firost-bitten as to lose a good deal of the flesh ^the upper ends, and for many days it was putated. been getting below, and' eveiy one had severe frost-bites in aifierent parts of the body, which recovered after the usual loss of skin in these cases. One of the Esquimaux females, by name Igloolik, who plays a conspicuous part in the narrative, was a general favorite, being possessed of a large fand of useful information, having a good voice and ear fbt cW PBOGKI88 OV ABCna IMBOOTEBY. .^cHisic, l>eing an excellent Beanistress, and having tneh .a^p(K>d idea of the hydrography and bearings of the neighhoring sea-coasts, as to draw charts whidi glided Pai'ry much in his future operations, for he found her sketches to be in the main correct. She c(»inected the land from their winter quarters to the northwest sea, rounding and terminating the northern extremity of this part of America, by a larse island, and a strait of sufficient magnitude* to affora a safe passage for the ships. This little northwest passage, observes Lyon, set us all castle-building, and we fuready fancied the worst part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that before half the ensuing summer was past, we should arrive at Akkoolee, the Esquimaux settlement on the we^l^rn shore. Half-way between that coast and Ke pulse Bay, Igloolik drew on her chart a lake of consid- erable size, having small streams running from ith to the sea, on each side ; and the correctness of this infor- mation was fully proved by Bae in his recent expedi- tion in 1846. On the 18th of -April tibeir Esquimaux Mends took their departure for other quarters ; towards the end of the month the crews completed the cutting of trenches round the vessels, in order that they might rise to their proper bearingB previous to working in the holds, and the ships floated like corks on their native element, after their long imprisonment of 191 days. As the season appear^ to 1be improving, another mnd expedi- . tion was determined on, and Captain Wgcn^and Lieu- tenant PaliQer, attended by a party ol^ight men, set off on the 8th of Iday, taking with ihem twenty days' provisions. Each man di|tt^on a sKgQ 126 lbs., and the officers 95 lbs. a-piece. " Loaded as we were," says the leader, "it was with the gr^^t difficulty we made our way among and over the hummocks, ourselves and sledges taking some very unpleasant tumbles. It required two and a half iiours to cross the ice, althoi:^ the distance was not two miles, and we then landed on a small islfuad, where we pa^sfia ^ n.'fht." ir , f < s^ IPASBY'B tBOOlfD VOTAMb. Ill ' "^^ gc^v^ralislandi ftnd Bboris in the strait were Darned Lird*s Isles. At noon on the 11th, thej camped at the head of a line bay, to which the name of Blake was ffiven. In spite of all- the care which had been taken by using crape shades, and other coverings for the eyes, live of the PMrty becune severely afflicted with snow blindness. Before eyening;>two of the suff&rers were quite blinded by the inflammation. Their fifkces, eyes, and even heads, beine much swollen, and very red. Bathing would have anbrded relief, but the sun did not produce a drop of water, and their stock of fuel being -limited, they^ could only spare enough wood to thaw snow for tiieir midday araught. As the morning of the 12ui brought no change in ih» invalids, another day was lost Toward eyening, by breaking pieces of ice, and placing them in the full glare of the sun, sufficient water was obtained, both for rinking and for the sick to bathe their faces, which aifordedthem amazing relief, and on the morrow they were enabled to resume their journey. At noon the sun was sufficiently powerful to afford the travelers a drau^t of water, without having to thaw it, as had hitherto been the case. For nearly three days after this, they were imprisoned in their low tent by a snow-storm, but on the morning of the 18th, they were enabled to sally out to stretch their legs, and catch a glimpse of the sun. After exam- ining mamLbajs and indentations of the coast, the party returned oPtlS ships on the evening of the 21st. A canal was now cut throng the ice, to get the ships to the open water,,in length 2400 feet, and varying in breadth from 60 to 197 ^i|b The avera^ thiclmess af the ice was four feet, but in some places it was as much as twelve foet. This truly arduous task had occupied the crews for fifteen days, from six in the morning to eight in the evening; but they labored at it with the greatest spirit and ^ood humor, and it was concluded on the 18th of June, wnen the officers and men began to take leave of their several haunts and promenades, particularly the " garden " of each ship, wnich had become &vorite •€* rfei'Miiii it2 rnOaiUBM or ABOflO DISOOTEItT. f lotingeB dnrihg their nine months' detentiou. A f v ; ft.fll-£ited banting cama near enough to be shot, and we o » instantly roasted for a tarewell supper, and bright yw- ions of active exertions on the water oti the morrow were universally entertained. But the night dispelled all these airy eastles, for with the mominifs dawn they tunnd that the whole body of ice astern of the ships had broke adrift, iHled up the bard-wrought canal, aud iniprisoned them as firm as ever. - ^ Death now for the iirst dme visited the crews. James Pringle,a seaman of the Hecla,fell from themadt-head to the deck, and was killed on the 18th of Hny. Wra. Souter, qnai'ter-master, and John Reid, Carpenter's mate, belonging to the Fury, died on the 36th and 27thy of mitural causes. Towiurd the end of June, the sea began to clear rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice soon gave, way as fiir as where the ships Were lying, and on the 2d of July they put to sea with a fresh breeze, after having been frozen in for 267 days. In making their way to the northward, they were fre- auently in much dan^r. On the 8d, the ice came down on the Heda wiSi such force as to carry her on board the Fury, by which the Hecla broke her best bowei Anchor, and eut her waist-boat in two. On the 4tL the pressure of the ice was so great as to break the Hecla adrift irom three hawsers. Four or five men were each on separate pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the endeavor to run out a hawser. A heavy mreMpre closing ^e loose ice unexpectedly save them &osf on board again, or they must havift Deen carrieei away by the •treaitt to certain destruction. On the 8th, the Hecla bad got her s^am-cable cf% in addition to the other hawsers, and made fast to the land ice, when a verv heavy and extensive floe took the ship on her broad 0ide, and beins backed by another large body of ice, gradually lifted her stem as if hj the «ctioii of a wedge. "The weight every moment increasing, obliged hs,'' •ays Captain Lyon, " to veer on the hawsers, whose fric- tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads, 9Md ukimately to set them on fire, so that it becanio .rttr rxamy^t Mmjonp votacmk' reqnlttite Hn people to attend with baekets of mtter. 'Thfj presMire was at lenoth too powerftil fi>r Nsittanoe, and the stream-cablo, with two iix and one iiTe-indi hawsers, fdl gave waj at the same moment, three others soon following them. The sea was too full of ioe to allow the ship to drive, and the only way in whieh she could yield to the enormous weight which oppressed her, was by leaning oyer on the land ice, while ner stem at the same time was entirely lifted to above the height of five het out of the water. The lower deck beams now complained very much, and the whole frame of the , ship underwent a trial which would have proved fatal to any less strei^^hened vessel. At the same moment, the rudder was unhung with a sudden jerk, which broke up the rudder-case, and struck the driver-boom with great force.'' From this perilous position stte was released almost by a miracle, and the rudder re-hung. The ships a*, last reached the island which had been so . accurately described to them by the Esquimaux lady — Iglolik, where they came upon an encampment of 120 Esquimaux, in tents. Captains Parry and Lyon and other officers made frequent exploring excursions along the shores of the Fury and Heola strait, and in- land. On tlie 26th of August the ships entered this • strait, which was found blocked up wiih flat ice. The season had also now assumed so wintry an aspect that there seen^d but little probability of getting much far- ther westf knowing of no harbor to protect the ships, unless a fi&Torable change 4ook place, fbey had tlio gloomy prospect before uem of wintering m or near this frozen strait Boatiiig and land parties were dis- patched in several directions, to report upon the differ- ent localities. On the 4th of September, Captain Lyon landed on an island of slate formation, about six miles to the west- ward of the ships, which he named Amherst Island. The result ef these expeditions proved that it was impracti- cable, either by boats or water conveyance, to examine any part of the land southwest of Iglolik, in conso> qiience of the ice. 8 m^ PBOOBICM or AUOriO DOOOVKIir. ^- Mr. Bold *nd a boat-party traveled about sizt^r miles ^ Ibo westward of Amherst Island, and ascertained the termination of the strait On a consultation with the i^^cen, Captain Parry determined to seek a berth near to ^loJ^k, in which to secure the ships for the winter. They had now been sixty-fiye days strngsling to get forward, bat had only in that time reached forty miles to the westward of Iglolik. The vessels made the beet of their way to the natural channel between this island and the land, but were for some time drifted with the ice, losing several anchors, and it was only bv hard work in cutting channels that they were brought into ■Mer quarters, near the land. Some fine teams of dogs •^ were here purchased from the Esquimaux, which were i found very serviceable in making excursions on sledges. Their second ChristmaQ day in this regioii had now arrived, and Lyon informs us — " Captain Parry dined with me, and was treated with a superb display of mustard and cress, with about fifty onions, rivaling a fine needle in size, which I had reared in boxes round my cabin stove. All our messes in either ship were supplied with an eitra pound of real English fresh beef, which had been hanging at our quarter for eighteen months. We could not afibrd to teave it for a filler trial of keeping, but I have no doubt that double the period would not have quite spoiled its •fiavor." This winter proved much more severe than the for- mer. Additmnal clothing was found neeelfe^. The stove funmira collected a quantity of ice within them, notwithstanding fires were kept up night and day, so that it was frequently requi^te to take them down in order to break and melt the ice out of them. Nothing was seen of the sun for forty-two days. On the 15th of April, Mr. A. Elder, Greenland mate of the Hecla, died of dropsy: he had been leading man with Parry on Boss's voyi^e, and for his good conduct .Yas made mate of the Gnper, on the last expedition. On the 6th of September, 1828, Mr. George Fife, the gtUot, also died of scurvy. »ijaiY*A noQim tovaml AAur tftkinc • review of their iifOvitioiie> and the protiability of iiarlng to nast a thira winter here, Gapt Parry determined to send the Hecla home, takinj]^ from Iter all the provision that could be spared. Little or no hopes eonld be entertained of any passage being found to the westward, otherwise than by the strait now so firmly closed with ice , but Parry trusted that some interestinff additions miffht be made to the geography of these dreary regions, Dy attempting a {MwMge to the northward or eastward, in hooes of finding an outlet to Lancaster Sound, or Prince ICegent's Inlet On the 21st of April, 1828, they began transshipping the provisions; the teams of dogs being found most useful ibr this purpose. Even two anchors of 22 cwt each, were drawn by these noble animals at a quick trot. Upon admittinff daylight at the stem windows of the Hecla, on the 22a, the gloomy, sooty cabin showed to no great advantage ; no less than ten buckets of ice were taken from the sashes and out of the stem lockers, from which Jitter some spare flannels and instraments were only liberated by chopping. On the 7th ot' June, Captain Lyon, with a party of men, set off across the MelviUe Peninsula, to endeavor to get a sight of the western sea, of i||fk^h they had re- ceived descriptive accounts from thenatives, but ow- ing to the dimculties of traveling, and the ranges of mountains they met with, they returned unsuccessful, after being out twenty days. Another Up°^ ^P ^^ ^ fortnight rollowed. ^ On the Ist of August, the Hecla was reported ready for sea. Some symptoms of scurvy having again made their appearance in the ships, and the surgeons report- ing that it would not be prudent to contimie longer. Captain Parry reluctantiy aetermined to proceed home witn both ships. After being 319 days in their winter quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of August. A conspicuous landmark, with disj^atches, was set up on the main-land, for the information of FrankUn, should he roach thie nnarter. I9B PRod»i!ii bF'^iRcno DftcofEBT. • 'On reftohing Winter Island, and risiting; their las year's garden, radishes, mnstard and cress, and onion* were brought off, which had survived the winter and were still alive, seventeen months from the time they were planted, a very remarkable proof of their having been preserved by the warm covering of snow. The ships, during the whole of this passage, were driven by the current more than three degrees, entirely at the mercy of the ice, being carried into every bight, and swept over each point, without the power of help- ing themselves. On the Ist of September, they were driven up Lyon Inlet, where they were confinea high up till the 6th, when a breeze sprung up, which took tnem down to within three miles of Winter Island ; still it was not until the 12th, that they got thoroughly clear of the in- draught. The danger and suspense of these twelve days were horrible, and Lyon justly observes, that he would prefer being frozen up during another eleven months^ winter, to ^ain passing so anxious a period of time. * * " Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, in expectation, each tide, of some decided change in our aflairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding in such shoal ^^i^, that the whole body of the ice must have slid over u^. But, as that good old seaman BafHn expresses himself, * God, who is greater than either ice or tide, always delivered us I ' " g For thirtydjpre da^s the ships had been beset, and in that period bad driven with the ice above 800 miles, without any exertion on their part, and also without a possibility of extricating themselves. On the 23d of Beptemberj they once more got into the swell of the Atlantic, and on the 10th of October, arrived at Ler- wick, in Shetland. t' Cijlvering's Voyage to Spfizberuen and Qreen-^ ,; LAND, 1823. In 1823, Capt. Sabine, E. A., who had been for some time engaged in magnetic observations, and also ii> OL.iy EOUKO'S VOTACafc . s .Tilsit im -^ experiments to detennine the conii^uxatton of tiie earth, by means of pendulum vibrations in different latitudes, having perfected his observations at di£ferent points, Irom tne Equator to the Arctic Circle, suggested to the Royal Society, through Sir Humphry Davy, the impor- tance of extending smiilar expenments into higher lat- itudes toward the role. Accordingly, the government placed at his disposal H. M. S. Griper, 120 tons, Com- mander Clavering, which was to convey him to Spitz- bereen, and thence to the east coast of Greenland. fie Griper sailed from the Nore, on the 11th of May, and proceeded to Hammerfest, or Whale Island, near the Korth Cape, in Norway, which she I'eached on the 4th of June, and Capt. Sabine having finished his shore observations b^ the 23d, the vessel set sail for Bpitzber* gen. She fell in with ice off Cherry Island, in lat. 75° 5', on the 27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents and instruments on dne of the small islands round Hakluyt's Headland, near the eightieth parallel. Capt. Clavering, meanwhile, sailed in the Griper due north, and reached the latitude of 80° 20', where being stop- ped by dose packed ice, he was obliged to return. On the 24th of Julv, they again put to sea, directing their course for the highest known point of the eastern coast of Greenland. Thev met with m an y fields of ice, and made the land, whicn had a mofllpiserable, deso- late appearancejat a point which was named Cape Bor* lase Warren. Two islands were discovered, and as Capt. Sabine here landed and carried on hi s observa* tions, they were called Pendulum IslandP From an island situate in lat. 75° 12', to which he gave the nam« of Shannon Island, Clavering saw high land, stretch- ing due north as far as lat. 76°. On the 16th of August, Clavering landed with a party of three oflScers, and sixteen men on the main- land, to examine the shores. The temperature did not sink below 23°, and they slept for nearly a fortnight they were on shore with only a boat-cloak and blanket for a covering, without feeling any inconvenience from the cold. A tribe of twelve Esquimaux was met with %■' PB0GB£8B OF ABi, » i W *t IM AdfiiBtant^nrveyor—E. N. KendaL Purser — J. Evans. Assistant-Surgeon — W. LejsoB. Midshipman^ — J. Tom. 34 Petty Officers, Seamen, &o. . ■ £> ^ Total complement, 41. It was not till the 20th of June, that the Griper got hway from England, being a full month later than the usual period of departure, and the vessel was at the best but an old tub in her sailing propensities. A small tender, caUed the Snap, was ordered to accompanjr her with stores, as far as the ice, and having been relieved of her supplies, she was sent home on reaching Hud- son's Straits. The Griper made but slow process in her deeply la- den state, ner crowded decks bemg continually swept by heavy seas, and it was not until the end of August, that she rounded the southern head of Southampton Island, and stood up toward SirJ?homaB Roe's Wei come. On reaching the entranced this channel they encountered a terrific gale, which for a lonjg time threatened the destruction of both ship ancT crew. Drifting with this, they brought up the ship with four anchors, in a bay with five rathoms and a naif water, in the momentary expectation that with the ebb tide the ship would take the ground, as the sea broke fear- fully on a low sandy beach just astern, and had the an- chor parted, nothing could have saved the vessel. Neither commander nor crew had been inll^d for three nights, and although little hope was entertained of sur- viving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea, the officers and crew performed their several duties with their accustomed coolness. Each man was or- dered to put on his warmest clothing, and to take chnrge of some useful instrument. The scene is best described in tlie words of the gallant commander : — "Each, therefore, brought his bag on deck, and dressed himself; and in the fine athletic forms which stood exposed before me, I did not see one muscle qui- m^ PBOOKUSS OV 4SCTIC OI800TEBY. ver, nor the slightett sign of alann. Prayers were read, * and they then all sat down in groups, i^eltered from the wash of the sea by wlutever they could find, and some endeavored to obtain a little sleeps Never, perhaps was witnessed a finer scene than on the deck of mj little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Koble is the character of the British sailor is always allowed to b6 in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be pos- sible that among tbrty-one persons not one repining word should have been uttered. Each was at peace with his neighbor and all th6 world ; and I am nrmly persuaded mat the resignation which was then shown to the will of the Almighty, was the means of obtain- ing His mercy. God was merciful to us, and the tide, almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to this spot on the charts by Captain Lyon. ^ Proceeding onward up the "Welcome, they encoun- tered, about a fortnight later, another fearful storm. On the 12th of Seplj^ber, when off the entrance of "Wager Inlet, it blew so hard for two days, that on the 13th the ship was driven from her anchors, and carried away by the fury of the gale, with every prospect of being momentarily dashed to pieces against any hid- den rock; but the same good Providence which had 60 recently bemended them, again stood their protec- tor. On consulting with his officers, it was unani- mously resolved, that in the crippled state of the ship, without an^anchor, and with her compasses Tt^rse than useles^t would be madnesa to continue tlie voy- age, and the ship's course was therefore shaped for England. Imay observe, that the old Griper is now laid up as a hiiUc in Chichester Harbor, furnishing a residence and^epot for the coast guard station. b Pabey's Third Voyage. Im" the spring of 1824 the Admiralty determined to give Oapt. Parry another opportunity of carrying ox t to ort wfe^ the great problem which had so long been Bonght af- ter, of a northwest passage to the Pacific, and bo gen-^ erally esteemed was this gallant commander that he had but to hoist his pennant, when fearlejss of all dan< gcr, and in a noble spirit of emulation, his former as^ aociates rallied around him. The same two ships were employed as before, bui Parry now selected the Hecla for his pennant. The etaff of officers and men was as follows : — * Hecla, Captain — "W. E. Parry. • Lieutenants — J. L. Wynn, Joseph Sherer, and H^nry Foster. Surgeon — Samuel Neill, M. D. . Purser — TV. H. Hooper. Assistant Surgeon — W . Rowland. Midshipmen — J. Bninton, F. R. M. Crozier, C. Eicbards, and II. N. Head«| Greenland Pilots — J. AUiJIb, master; and G. Champion, mate. 4D Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines. Total complement, 62. \ ■ ' '■ ' Futy. Commander — H. P. Hoppner. ^eutenants — H. T. Austin and J. 0. BoH. Surgeon — A. M'Laren. ^ Purser— J. Halse. f Assistant Surgeon — T. Bell. Midshipmen — B. "Westropp, 0. C. Waller, and E. Bird. Clerk — TV. Mogg. Greenland Pilots— G. Crawford, master; T. t)on l^ldson, mate. 1 48 Betty Officers, Seamen, and Marines. Total complement, 60. ^ The "William Harris, transport, was commiBiione.the entrance of Port Bowen en th^ eaftterii ^ ^m ^AKKY'S TUUa> WYAOIL^fnn Ida tern Bhore of Prince Regout Inlet, and here Parry resolved upon wintering; this making the fourth winter this enterprising commander had passed in these inhospi" table seas. The usual laborious process of cutting canals had to be resorted to, in order to get the ships near to the shore in secure and shelter^ situations. Parry thus describes the dreary monotonous character of an arctic winter ; — "It is hard to conceive any one thins more like another than two winters passed in the higher latitudes of the polar regions, except when variety happens to be afforded by intercourse with some other branch of the whole family of man. Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike, that cursory ob- servation can scarcely detect a single feature of variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even m some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once gives varietv and compara- tive cheerfulness to the prospect. But here, when once tJiie earth is covered, all is dreary monotonous white- ness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than half a year together. Whichever way the eye is turn- ed, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ; of any thing, in short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a human spectator ap- pe^s out of keeping. The presence of man seems an intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its native animals have for awhile forsaken." During this year Parry tells us the thermometer re- mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above that point till the 11th of April. The sun, which had been absent^om their view 121 days, again T^lessed the crews "vpih his rays on the 22d of February. Du- ring this long imprisonment, schools, scientific observa- tions, walking parties, &c., were resorted to, but " our former amusements," says Parry, " being almost worn threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any .i*-,- J" ^«r ♦' ■>•, i FK00B18S OF ABOTIO DUOUVEAY. ft should possess the charm of novelty to r^^ it.*' A happy idea was, however, hit upon by t34 \t\«n that 3«)mmend Commander Hoppner,' at whose snggefition a monthly bal masque was held, to the great diversion of both officers and men, to the number of 1^. The populai commander entered gavly into their recreations, and thus spei^ of these polar masquerades i^-^ ^*' It is impossible that any idea could have proved more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation Admiralty dressed characters of various descriptions readilv took their parts, and many of these were sup- ported with a degree of spirit and genuine good humor which would not nave disgraced a more renned ashcm- bly ; while the latter might not hav« been disgraced by copying the good order, decorum, and inonensive cheerfulness which our humble masquerades presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good sense of our men, that though all the officers entered fully into the spirit of these amusements, which took place once>^ tbonth alternately on board of each ship, no instance occurred of any thing that could interfere with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men toward their superiors. Ours were mas querades without licentiousness — carnivals without excess^** Exj^oring parties were sent out in several directions. Commander Hoppner and his party went inland, and after a fortnight's fatiguing journey over a mountain- ous, barren, and desolate country, where precipitoufra- vines 500 feet deep obstructed their passage, traveled a degree and three-quarters • — to the latitude of 73° 19', but saw no appearance of sea from thence. Lieutenant Sherer, with four men, proceeded to the southward, and made a careful survey of the coast as far as tfii*, but had not provisions sufficient to go round Cape Kater, the southernmost poin%)bserved m their former voyage. Lieutenant J. C. Boss, with a similar party^-traveled to the northward, alone the coast of the Inlet, and from th^hills about Cape Yorkj observed that the sea was "^g r % ^'' ■ ...-.lay feaSV^ ..... ^^j^ ■ ^ .HHTPABRY^S TBISD TOTAOE. *'i las perfectly op«)n and free from ice at the distance of twenty-two niiles from the ships. After an imprisonment of about ten months, by nreat exertions the ships were got clear from the ice, a. on the 20th of July, 1825, upon the separation of the iloe across the harbor, towed out to sea. Parry then made for tlie western shore of the Inlet, being desirous of ex- amining the coast of Korth Somerset tor any channel that might occur, a probability which later discoveries in that quarter have proved to be without foundation. On the 28th, when well in with the western shore, the Hecla, in spite of every exertion, was beset by floating ice, and after breaking two large ice anchors in en- deavoring to heave in snore, was obliged to give up the effort and drift with the ice until the 80th. On the following day, a heavy gale came on, in which the Hecla carried away three hawsers, while the Fury was driven on shore, but was hove off at high water. Both ships were now drifted by the body of the ice down the Inlet, and took the gi'ound, the Fury being so nipped and strained that she leaked a great deal, and four pumps kept constantly at work did not keep hdr clear of water. They were floated oft' at high* water, but, late on the 2nd of August, the hu^e masses of ice once more forced the Fury on shore, and the Hecla narrowly escaped. On examining her and getting he^* off, il Was found that she must oe hove down and re]paired ; a^basin was therefore formed for her reception and completed by the 16th, a mile further to the southward, within three icebergs grounded, where there were three or four fathoms of water. Into this basin she was taken on the 18th, and her stores and provisions being removed, she was hove down, but a gale of wind com- ing on and destroying the masses of ice which shel- tered her, it became necessary to re-embark the stores, &c., and once more put to sea ; but the unfortunate vessel had hardly got out of her harbor before, on the 21st, she wai again diiven on shore. After a careful survey and examination, it was found necessary to abandon her : Parry's opinion being thus expressed — %ir: 186 PB00SE8S OF ASCTIO DISOOTEBT. ** Every endeavor of ours to get her oflf, or if got oflf, to float her to any known place of safety, womd be at once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of ex- treme risk to our remaining ship." The loss of this ship, and the crowded state of the remaining vessel, made it impossible to think of con- tinuing the voyage for the purposes of discovery. ^^ The incessant labor, the constant state of anxiety, and the frequent and imminent danger into which the surviving ship was thrown, in the attempts to save her comrade, which were continued for twenty-five days, destroyed every reasonable expectation hitherto cher- ished of the ultimate accomplishment of this object." Taking advantage of a northerly wind, on the 27th the Hecla stretched across the inlet for the eastern coast, meeting with little obstruction from the ice, and anchored in JSTeill's Harbor, a short distance to tSa southward of their winter quarters. Port Bowen, whero the ship was got ready for crossing the Atlantic. The Hecla put to sea on the 3l8t of August, and en- tering Barrow's Strait on the 1st of September, found it perfectly clear of ice. In Lancaster Sound, a very large number of bergs were seen ; but they found an open sea in Baffin's Say, till, on the 7th of September, when in latitude 75° 30', they came to tho margin of *^he Iceland soon entered a clear channel on its eastern side. iFrom thirty to forty large icebergs, not less than 200 feet in height, were sighted. On the 12th of October, Captain Parry landed ^at Peterhead, and the Hecla arrived at Sheemess on the 20th. But one man died during this voyage — John Page, a seaman of the Fury — who died of scurvy, in Neill's Harbor, on the 29th of August. This voyage cannot but be considered the most unsuc- cessful of the three made by Parry, whether as regards the information gleaned on the subject of a northwest passage, or the extension of our store of geographical or scientific knowledge. The shores of tY& inlet were more naked, barren, and desolate than even Melville Island. With the exception of some hundreds of white >\ M riUNKUM^B SfiCO|(D SXCJEDXTXON. wbalos, seen sportinx about the southernmost irt of the Inlet that was viftited, few other species of animals were seen. " We have scarcely," says Parry, " ever visited a coast on which so little ot aoimal life occurs. For days to- gether only one or two seals, a single sea-horse, and now and then a flock of ducks were seen." Pie still clinffs to the accomplishment of the great object of a northwest passage. At page 184 of his offi- cial narrative, he savs: — '' I feel conndent that the undertaking, if it be deemed advisable at any future time to pursue it, will one da^ or otheir be accomplished ; for — setting aside the acci- dents to which, from their very nature, such attempts must be liable, as well as other un&vorable circum- stances which human foresight can never guard against, or human power control — I cannot but believe it to be an enterprise well within the reasonable limits of practicability. It may be tried often and fail, for seve- ral favorable and fortunate circumstances must be com- bined for its accomplishment ; but I believe, neverthe- less, that it will ultimately be accomplished." t ^* I am much mistaken, indeed," he adds, " if the northwest passage ever becomes the business of a single summer ; nay, i believe that nothing but a concurrence of very favorable circumstances is Skely ever to make a single winter in the ice sufficient for its accoQ^^h- ment. But there is no argument against the ^ssimlity of final success ; for we Imow that a winter m the ice may be passed not only in safety, but in health and comfort." Not one winter alone, but two and three have been passed with health and safety in these seas, under a wise and careful commander. 4. Fbanklin's Sbco2jd ExpEornoN, 1825-26. ..■iis JJnumontkd bv the hardships and sufferings he had encountered in nis previous travels with a noble spirit of ardor and ^^nthusi^m, Qi^t^ii^ Franklin determ^i^d # t^ TKOOIOM or AROTIO DIflTSBff . to protecote the chain of Ws fbnner discoyeries from llie Coppermine river to the mosi weBtem point of the Arctic regions. A sea expedition, under the command of Captam Beechey was at the same time sent round Cape Horn to Behnng's Straits, to co-operate with Parry and Franklin, so as to furnish nrovisions to the formA*, and a conveyance homo to the latter. Captain Franklin's offer was therefore accepted by the government, and leaving Liverpool in February, 1825, he arrived at New York about the middle of March. The officers under his orders were his old and tried companions and fellow sufferers in the former jou^ ney^Dr. Eichardson and Lieutenant Back, with Mr. E. N. Kendal, a mate in the navy, who had been out in the Griper with Capt. Lyon, and Mr. T. Drummond, a naturalist. Four boats, specially prepared for the pur- poses of the expedition, were sent out by the Hudson's Bav Company's ship. In July, 1825, the party arrived at Fort Chipewyan. It is unnecessary to go over the ground and follow them in their northern journey; suffice it to say, they reached Great Sear Lake in safety, and erected a winter dwell- ing on its western shore, to which the name of Fort Franklin was given. To Back and Mr. Dease, an uffi* cer in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, were in- trust^ the arrangements for their winter quarters. FtiHi here a small party set out with Franklin down the^iMackenzie to examine the state of the Polar Sea. On the 6th of September they got back to their com- panions, and prepared to pass the long winter of seven or eight months. • On the 28th of June, 1826, the season being suffi- fciently advanced, and all their preparations completed, the whole party got away in four boats to descend the Mackenzie to the Tolar Sea. Where the river branches off into several channels, the party separated on the 3d of July, Captain Franklin and Lieutenant Back, with two boats and fourteen men, having wi^ them the faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, who had been with them on the former expedition, proceeded ti> m m ntAMKUMS BKCOND BXPKDlTKkN. 189 the westward, while Dr. liichardson and Mr. Kendal in the other two boats, having ten men under their command, let out in an easterly direction, to search the Coppermine River. Franklin arrived at the month of the Mackenzie on the 7tli of July, where he oncountored a large tribo of iicrce £squiinaux, who pillaged his boats, and it was only by great cantion, pntdeuoo and ibrbearance, tliat the whole pai'ty wore not massacred. After getting the boats afloat, and clear of theso unpleasant visitors, Franklin pursued his survey, n most tedious and diiti- cult one, ior more than a month ; he was only able to r(!ach a point in latitude 70*" 24' N., longitude 140° 37' W., to which Backus name was given ; and here pru- dence obliged him to return, although, strangely enough, a boat from the Blossom was waiting not 160 miles west of his position to meet with him. The extent of coast surveyed was 374 miles. The return jouniey to Fort Franklin was safely accomplished, and they arrived at their house on the 31st of September, when they found Richoi'dson and Kendal haa returned on the first of the month, having accomplished a voyage of about 500 miles, or 902 by tne coast line, between the 4th of July and the 8th of August. They had pushed forward bo* yond the strait named after their boats, the Dolphin and Union. In ascending the Coppermine, tbey Lad to abandon their boats and carry their provisions and baggage. Having passed another winter at Fort Franklin, as soon as the season broke up tho Canadians were dis- missed, and the party returned to England. The cold experienced in the last winter was intense, the thermometer standing at one time at 58° below zero, but having now plenty of tbod, a weather-tight dwell- ing, and good health, they passed it cheertully. Dr. Richardson gave a courae of lectures on practical geol- ogy, and Mr. Drnminond tiirnished information on natu- ral history. JEUiring tho winter, in a solitary hut on the Rocky mountains, he managef^ to collect 200 sixicimens .>f ,];»irdi9i animals, <&c., and more than 1500 of plants. 9 F* # ,..., ♦140 PROGUIOSS OF AUariC DISCOVKRY. i When Captain Franklin left England to proceed Cn this expedition he had to undergo a severe struggle between liis feelings of aftection and a sense of duty, llis wife (he has been married twice) was then lying at the point of death, and indeed died the day after ho left England. But with heroic fortitude she urged hia departure at the very day appointed, entreating him, as lie valued her peace and Ins own glory, not to delay a moment on her account. His feelings, therefore, may be inferred, but not described, when lie had to elevate on Garrv Island a silk fla^, which she bad made and given him as a parting gift, with the instruction that He was only to hoist it on reaching the Polar Sea. Beechet^s Voyage. — 1826-28. * H. M. SLOOP Blossoni, 26, Captain F. "W. Beechey, Bailed from Spithead on the 19tli of May, 1825, and her instructions directed her, after surveying some of the islands in the Pacific, to be in Behring's Straits by the summer or autumn of 1826, and contingently in that of 1827. It is foreign to my purpose here to allude to those parts of her voyage anterior to her arrival in the Straits. On the 28th of June the Blossom came to an anchor off tlie town of Petropolowski, where she fell in with the Russian ship of war Modesto, under the commano of Baron Wrangel, so well known for his enterprise it the hazardous expedition by sledges over the ice to'thr northward of Cape Shelatskoi, or Errinos. * Captain Beechey here found dispatches informiuf him of the retui*n of Parry's expedition. Being bese* by currents and other difiiculties, it was not till the 5tb of July that the Blossom got clear of the harbor, and made the best of her way to Kotzebue Sound, reaching tlie appointed rendezvous at Chamiso Island on the 25th. After landing and burying a bari*el of ilour upon Puffin Rock, the most urfrequentcd spot about the'island, the Blossoni occupieif* i^ «£V .•?•? 'W> f w 4^ PKOOSSSa OF Ascmo disoovxby. «- Farky's Foubih, ok Polab Voyage, 182T.*('«\ In 1826, Capt. Parry, who had only returned from Ilia last voyage in the close of the preceding year, was much struck by the suggestions of Mr. Scoresby, in a paper read before the W ernerian Society, in which he sketched out a plan for reaching the highest latitudes of the Polar Sea, north of Spitzbergen, by means of sledge boats drawn over the smooth fields of ice which were known to prevail in those regions. Col. Beau- foy, F. E. S., had also suggested this idea some years previously. Comparing these with a similar plan orig- inally proposed by Captain Franklin, and wnich was placed in his hands by Mr. Bftrrow, the Secretary of the Admiralty, Capt. Parry laid his modified views of the feasibility of the project, and his willingness to un- dertake it, before Lord Melville, the First Lord of the Admiralty, who, after consulting with the President and Council of the Hoyal Society, was pleased to sanc- tion the attempt ; accordingly, his old* snip, the Hecla, was fitted out for the voyage to Spitzbergen, the fol- l^ing officers, (all of whom had been with Parry be- ^m,) and crew being appointed to her : — In ' Heda, Captain— "W. E. Parry. * Lieutenants — J. C. Boss, Henry Foster, E. J. Bird, F. R. M. Crozier. ^ 5*ur8er — James HaJse. ,^ Surgeon — C.J.Beverley. mttm On |he 4:th of April, 1827, the outfit and prepara- tions being completed, the Hecla left the Kore for the coast of 2forway, touching at Hammerfest, to embark eight reindeer", and some moss {flenorrvyce rangiferiha) suficient for their support, the consumption being about 4 lbs. per day, but they can go without food for several days. A tremendous gale of wind, experienced off Hakluyt's Headland, and the quantity of ice with which the ship was in consequence beset, detained the voyagers for nearly a month, but on the 18th of June. n # ii-iiiflaiii^' r wff FAKBY S rOUSTH VOYAGE. 145 T »'. a southerly wind dispersing the ice, they dropped anchor in a cove, on the northern coast of Spitzbergen, which appeared to offer a secure haven, and to which the name of the ship was given. On the 20th, the boats, which had been especially prepared in England for this kind of jonrney, were got out and made ready, and they left the ship on the 22d of June. A descrip- tion of these boats may not here be out of place. They were twenty feet long and seven broad, flat floored, like ferry boats, strengthened and made elas- tic by sheets of felt between the planking, covered with water-proof canvass. A runner attached to each side of the keel, adapted them for easy draught on the ice after the manner ot a sledge. They were also fit- ted with wheels, to be used if deemed expedient and useful. Two officers and twelve men were attached to each boat, and they were named the Enterprise and Endeavor. The weight of each boat, including pro- visions and every requisite, was about 3Y80 lbs. Lients. Crozier and Foster were left on board, and Capt, Parry took with him in his boat Mr. Beverley, Surgeon, while Lieut, (now Capt. Sir James) Ross, and Lieut, (now Commander) Bird, had charge of the other. The reindeer and the wheels were given up as use- less, owing to the rough nature of the ice. Provisions for seventy-one days were taken — the daily allowance per man on the journey being 10 ozs. biscuit, 9 ozs. pemmican, 1 oz. sweetened cocoa powder (being enough to make a pint,) and one gill of rum ; but scanty provision in such a climate, for men employed on severe labor ; three ounces of tobacco were also served out to each per week. « As fuel was too bulky to transport, spirits of wine were consumed, which answered all the purposes re- quired, a pint twice a day being found sufficient to warm each vessel, when applied to an iron boiler by a shallow lamp with seven wicks. After floating the boats for about eighty miles, they came to an unpleas- ant mixed surface of ice and water, where their toilsome journey commenced, the boats having to be laden and 'jM^. U6 PBOCKRKS8 OF AHGTIO DISOOVEBY. $ unladen eeveral times according as they came to floes > of ice or lanos of water, and they were drifted to the ; southward by the ice at the rate of four or five miles a day. Pai'ry found it more advantageous to travel by night, the snow being then harder, and the inconven- ieoce of snow blindness being avoided, while the party enjoyed greater warmth during the period of rest, and had better opportunities of drying their clothes by the sun. ;.' • M.>¥'t;v .-. i:;.» X->"-' ■ ' ■ '*- j*--- I cannot do better man quote Pafiy's graphic de- scription of this novel course of proceeding : ** Travel- ing by night, and sleeping b;;^ day, so completely in- verted the natural order of tlM|y^S that it was difficult to persuade ourselves of the rSuity . Even the officers ana myself, who were all furnished with pocket chro- nometers, could not always bear in mind at what part of the twenty-hours we had arrived ; and there were several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they never knew night from day during the whole excursion. # JfWhen we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers, after which we took off our fur sleep- ing-dresses and put on clothes for traveling ; the fanner . being, made of camlet lined with raccoon skin, anot the latter of strong blue cloth. We made a point of al- ways putting on the same stockings and boots for traveling in, whether they had been dried during the day or not, and I beliere it was only in ^ve or six in- stances at the most that they were not either still wet or hard frozen. This indeed was of no consequence, beyond the discomfort of first putting them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a quarter of an hour after commencing our journey ; while, on the other hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being ^ rigged ' for traveling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats, and on the sledges, so as to secure them as much as pos- sible frond wet, we set off on our day's journey, and usually traveled four, fiye, or even six hours, accords ing to circumstances." - \ JSk % «», *T» parry's FOL'RTn VOTAOB. 147 In five days, notwithstanding their perseverance and continued journeys, they found, by oDservation at noon, on tlie 30th, that they bad only made eight miles of direct northing. ^ At Walden Island, one of the Seven Islands, and Little Table Island, reserve snpplies of provisions were deposited to fall back upon in case of necessity. In halting early in the morning for the purposes of rest, the boats were hauled up on the lar^st piece of ice that offered the least chance of breaking through, or of coming in contact with other masses, the snow or wet was cleaned out and the sails rigged as awnings. ^ Every man then imn^iately put on dry stockings and fur boots^ after whicn we set about the necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving the provisions for the succeeding day, we went to sup- per. Host of the officers and men then smoked their pipes, which se^ed to dry the boats and awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our lodg- ings 10° or 15°. This part of the twenty-fbur hours was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us ; the men told their stories, and fought all their battles o'er again, and the labors of the day, unsuccess- ful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular watch was set durinff our resting time, to look out for bears, or for the ice oreakinff up round us, as well as to attend to the drying of the clothes, each inan alter- nately takinff this duty for one hour. We then con- cluded our day with prayers, and having put on oui fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort which perhaps few persons would imagine possible un- der such circumstances, pur chief inconvenience being, that we were somewhat pinched for room, and there- fore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agree- able.» This close stowage may be imagined when it is re- membered that thirteen persons had to sleep in a boat seven feet broad. After sleeping about seven hours, they were roused from their slumbers by the sound of a bugle from the cook and watchman, which announced .us PK00KES8 OF AKCnO DI800YERT. ,■ : If that their cocoa was smoking hot, and inyited them lo breakfast. «; Their progress was of the. most tedious and toilsonio character, heavy showers of rain rendering the ice on many occasions a mass of ^^ slush ;" on others there was from six to eighteen inches of snow lying on the sur- face. Frequently the crew had to proceed on their hands and knees to secure a footing, and on one occa- sion they made such a snail-like progress that in two hours they only accomplished 150 yards. On the 12th of Julv, they had reached the latitude of $2° 14' 28". After nve hours' unceasing labor on the 14th, the pro- gress was but a mile ana j| half due north, though from three to four miles hacrbeen traversed, and ten at least walked, having made three journeys a great part of the way ; launched and hauled up the boats four times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate pieces of ice. On the 18th, after eleven hours of ac- tual labor, requiring for the most part the exertion of the whole strength of the party, they had traveled over a space not exceeding four miles, of which only two were made good. But on halting on the morning of the 20th, having by his reckoning accomplished six and a half miles in a N. N. W. direction, the distance traversed being ten miles and a half. Parry found to his mortification from observation at noon, mat they were not five miles to the northward of their place at noon on the 17th, although they had certainly traveled twelve miles in that direction since then. On the 21st, a floe of ice on which they had lodged the boats and sledges, broke with their weight, and all went through with several of the crew, who, with the sledges were providentially saved. On the 23d, the farthest northerly point was reached, which was about 82° 46', At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, " by which," says Parry, " we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23", so that since our last observation (at midnight on the ■iWi..',-': .'ifi!^ .T- PABftr's TOUBTH TOIAOS. 149 22d,) we had lost by dri/lb no less than thirteen and a half miles, for we were now more than three miles to the southward of that observation, though we had certainly traveled between ten and eleven, due north in this interval I Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on *^ Jlst, though we had esti- mated our distance made good at twenty-three miles." After encountering every species of fatigue and dis- heartening obstacles, in perilof their lives almost every hour. Parry now became convinced that it was hope- less to pursue the journey any further, and he could not even reach the eighty-third parallel ; for after thir- ty-five days of continuous and most fatiguing drudge ery, with half their resources expended, and the mid- dle of the season arrived, he found that the distance gained in their laborious traveling was lost by the drift and sea of the ice wiUi the southerly current dur- ing the period of rest. After planting their ensigns and pennants on the 26th, and making it a day of rest on tiie 27th, the return to the southward was com- menced. Nothing particular occurred. Lieutenant Koss managed to bring down with his gun a fat she bear, which came to have a look at the boats, and af- ter gormandizing on its tiesh, an excess which may be excused considering it was the tirst fresh meat they had tasted for many a day, some symptoms of indi- gestion manifested themselves among the party. On the outward journey very little of animal life was seen. A passing gull, a solitary rotge, two seals, and a couple of flies, were all that their eager eyes could detect. But on their return, these became more numerous. On the Sth of August, seven or eight nar- whals were seen, and not less than 200 rotges, a flock of these little birds occuring in every hole of water. On the 11th, in latitude 81° 30', the sea was found crowded with shrimps and other sea insects, on which numerous birds were feeding. On this day they took their last meal on the ice, being flfty miles distant from Table Island, having accomplished in iiteen days what had taken them thirty-three to eflect on their outward w isa PROOBBSH OV AROnO Dl journey. On the 12th, they arrived at this island. I'he bears had walked oif with the relay of bread whicli had been deposited there. To an inlet lyinff off Table Island, and the most northern known land upon the globe, Parry gave the name of Ross, for " no individ- ual," he observes, " could have exerted himself more strenuously to rob it of this distinction." Putting to sea again, a storm obliged the boats to bear up for "Walden Island. " Every thmg belcttging to us (says Captain Parry) was now completely drenched by the spray and snow ; we had been fifty-six hours without rest, and forty-eight at work in the boats, so that by^ the time they were unloaded we had barely strength left to haul them up on the rocks. However, by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above the surf ; after which a hot supper, a blazing fire of drift wood, and a few hours quiet rest, restored us." They finally reached the ship on the 21st of August, after sixty-one days' absence. " The distance traversed during this excursion was 569 geographical miles ; but allowing for the times we had to return for our baggage, during the greater part of the journey over the ice, we estimated our actual traveling at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute miles. Considering our constant exposure to wet, cold, and fatigue, our stockings having generally been drenched in snow-water for twelve hours out of every twenty- four, I had great reason to be thankful for the excellent health in which, upon the whole, we reached the ship. There is little doubt that we had all become in a certain degree gradually weaker for some time past ; but onl^ three men of our party now required medical care — two of them with badly swelled legs and general de bility, and the other from a bruise, but even these three returned to their duty in a short time." In a letter from Sir W. E. Parry to Sir John Borrow, dated November 25, 1845, he thus suggests some im provements on his old plan of proceedings :— *" ' ^ " It is evident (he says) that the causes of failnr^ in tmm rABi|pr*B FOUBTII rOYAOS. lU our ibrmer attempt^ in the yeai 1827, were principalis two : first, and chiefly, the broken, rnggoa, ana son Btate of the ice over which we traveled ; and eecondly, the drifting of the whole body of ice in a Bontherly. direction. ^' My amended plan is, to go ont with a single ship to Spitzbergen, just as we did in the Hecla, but not so early in the season ; the object for that year being merely to find secure winter quarters as far north as possible. For this purpose it would only be necessary, to reach Hakluvt'a Headland by the end of June, which would afford ample leisure for examining the more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands, where, in all probability, a secure nook might be found for the ship, and a starting point for the proposed ex- pedition, some forty or mty miles in advance of the point where the Hecla was before laid up. The winter might be usefully employed in various preparations for the journey, as well as in magnetic, asti'onomical, and meteorolo^cal observations, of high interest in that latitude. 1 propose that the expedition should leave the ship 'n the course of the month of April, when the ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over which, as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult to make good thirty miles per day, without any expo- sure to wet, and probably without snow blindness. At this season, too, tne ice would probably be stationary, and thus the two great difficulties which we formerly , had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It misht form a part of the plan to push out supplies previously, to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up on Uie way, so as to commence the journey comparatively light ; and as the intention would be to complete the enterorise in the course of the month of May, before, any disruption of the ice, or any material softening of the surface had taken place, similar supplies might h^' Bent out to the same distance, to meet the party on their return." The late Sir John Barrow, in his last work, com- menting on this, says, " With all deference- to so difr: # ■-*% p 162 PllOOBSSS OF ABOnO V^gpYMRX. tingnished a eea officer, in postession of so mneh expe- rience as Sir Edward Parry, there are others who express dislike of such a plan ; and it is not improba- ble that many will be disposed to come to the concln- sion, that so long as the Greenland Seas pre hampered with ice, so long as floes, and hnmmocks, and heavy masses, continue to be Ibrmed, so lone as a determined southerly current prevails, so Ions will any attempt to carry out the plan in c^ucetion, in nke manner fail. No laborious drudgery will ever be able to conquer the opposing progress of the current and the ice. Besides, it can hardly oe doubted, this gallant officer will admit, on further consideration, that this unusual kind of dis- gusting and unseamanliko labor, is not precisely such as would be relished bv the men ; and, it may be said, is not exactly fitted lor a British man-of-war's-man ; moreover, that it required his own all-powerful example to make it even tolerable." Sir John therefore sug- gested a somewhat different plan. He recommended that two small ships should be sent in the early spring aloDg the western coast of Spitzbergen, where usually no impediment exists, as far up as 80°. They should take every opportunity of proceeding directly to the north, where, in about 82°, rarry has told us the large ^ floes had disappeared, and the sea was found to be ^ loaded only with loose, disconnected, small masses of ice, through which ships would fi. d no difficulty in sailing, though totally unfit for boats dragging ; and as this loose ice was drifting to the southwara, he further says, that before the middle of Auenst a ship might have sailed up to the latitude of 82°, almost without touching a piece of ice. It is not then unreasonable to expect that beyond that parallel, even as far as the pole itself, the sea would be free of ice, during the six summer months of perpetual sun, through eadi of the twenty-four hours ; which, with the aid of the current, woula, in all probability, destroy and dissipate the polar ice. •■ ■• The distance from Hakluyt's Headland to the pole is ^00 geographical miles. -Granting the ships to make ••^--■'■-•- ^^^B ■ .1 pABfl^ FOURTH VOYAei. m only twenty miles in twenty-four hourt, (on the Buppo* Bition of much sailing ice to go through,) even in that case it would require but a month to enable the ex- plorer to put his loot on the pivot or point of the axis on which the globe of the earth turns, remain there a month, if necessary, to obtain the sought-for informa- tion, and then, with a southerly ourrent, a fortnight, probably less, would bring him back to Spitzbergen. * In a notice in the Quarterly Review of this, one of the most singular and perilous journeys of its kind ever undertaken, except perhaps that of Baron Wran- gell upon a similar enterprise to the northward of Behr- ing's Straits, it is observed, — "Let any one conceive for a moment the situation of two open boats, laden with seventy days' provisions and clotliing for twenty- eight men, m the midst of a sea covered nearly with detached masses and floes ^ ice, over which these boats were to be dragged, sometimes up one side of a rugged mass, and down the other, sometimes across the lanes of water that separate them, frequently over a surface covered with deep snow, or through pools of water. Let him bear in mind, that the men had little or no chance of any other supply of provisions than that which they carried with them, calculated as just sufficient to sustain life, and consider what their situa- tion would have been in the event, by no means an improbable one, of losing any part of their scanty stock. Let any one try to imagine to himself a situa- tion of this kind, and he will still haye but a faint idea of the e:||rtions which the men under Captain Parry had to imike, and the sufferings and privations they had to undergo." Captain Parry having thus completed his fifth voy- «ge into the arctic regions, in four of which he com- manded, and was second in the other, it may here be desirable to give a recapitulation of his services. ■ - In 1818 he was appointed Lieut^ant, commanding the Alexander, hired ship, as second officer with his unde, Commander John Koss. In 1819, still as Lieu*, / * Banoir'R Voyagcti of biscovery, p. 316. -€• . "^1^ .,;,V; ■ ■' .%■.. IM. *v PK0G]U£8S OF ABOTIO D|pOVEBY. tenant, he was appointed to command the Heda, and to take charge of the second arctic e?cpedition, on which service he was employed two years. On the 14th of November, 1820, ne was promoted to the rank of Commander. On the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean Gold Medal of the Bath and West of England Society tor the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, was unanimously voted to him. On the 30th of December of that year, he was appointed to the Fury, with ordei*8 to take command of the expedi- tion to the Arctic Sea. With the sum of 600 guineas, subscribed for the purpose, " the Explorer of the Polar Sea " was afterward presented with a silver vase, highly embellished with devices emblematic of the arctic voyages. And on the 24th of March, 1821, the city of Bath presented i||i^Hfreedom to Captain Parry, ii^ a box of oak, highly and appropriately ornamented.i 0;i the 8th of November, 1821, he obtained his post- captain's rank. On the 22d of November, 1823, he was presented with the freedom of the city of Win- chester ; and, on the Ist of December, was appointed acting hydrographer to the Admiralty in the place of Captain Hind, deceased. In 1824 he was appointed to the Hecla, to proceed on another ex^oiin^ voyage. On the 22d of November, J826, Oaptam Parr^ was formally appointed hydrographer to the Admiralty, which office he continued to hold until the 10th of November, 1826. In December, 1826, he was voted the freedom of the borough of Lynn, in testimonj[ of the high sefise enter- tained by the corporation of his meritorious and enter prising conduct. In April, 1827, he once more took the command of bis old ship, the Hecla, for another voyage of discoverj toward the North Pole. On his return in the close of the year, having paid off the Hecla at Deptford, h« r^umed, on the 2a of November, his duties as hydro- mpher to the Admiralty, which office he held until ♦ne 13th of May, 1829. Having received the Iv«ior of '^- .r^;($v W ii ' i i ai 0- # 04Pr4P^ Boes's seoond yoyaqe. 165 knighthood, he then resiened in favor of the present Admiral Beanfortj and, ootaining permission from th« Admiralty, proceeded to New Sooth Wales as resident Commissioner to the Australian Agricultural Com pany, taking diarge of their recentlj acquired large territory in the neighborhood of Port Stephen. He returned .from Australia in 1834. From the 7th of March, 1885; to the dd of February, 1886, he acted as Poor Law Commissioner in Norfolk. Early in 1887, he was appointed to organize the Mail Packet Service, then transferred to the Admiralty, and afterward, in April, was apix^nted Controller of steam machinery to the Navy, wniclb office he continued to hold up to De- cember, 1846. From that period to the present time he has filled the post of Captain Superintendent of the Royal Navy Hospital at Haslar. ^APTAm JoHH Boss's Second Yotaoe, 1829-83* • In the year 1829, Capt. Boss, the pioneer of arctie exploration iR the 19th century, being anxious onoe more to display his zeal and enterprise as well as to retrieve his nautical reputation from those unfortunate blunders and mistakes which had attached to his first voyage, and thus remove the cloud which had for nearly ten years hung over his professional character^ encUavored without effect to induce the government to send him out to the Polar Seas in charge of another expedition. The Board of Admiral^ty of that day, in the spirk of retrenchment which peiraded their coun- cils, weft, however, not disposed to recommend any further grant for research, even the Board ei Longi- tude was abolished, and the boon of 20,000^. offered by act of parliament for the promoticm <^ arctic djiiv covery, also withdrawn by a repeal of the act. ^ C^tain Boss, however, undaunted by the chillio§? indiTOrenoe thus manifested toward his proposals by the Admiralty, still persevered, having devoted 3000/. out of his own funds toward the prosecution of the ob- ject he had in view. He was fortunate enough to 10 « 156 PBOGBKSS OF AiUjnO l4ttf>YEUY. meet with a public-spirited and affluent coadjatoi And supporter in the late Sir Felix Booth, the eminen dis- tiller, and that gentleman nobly contributed lTt(X)0^. toward the expenses. Captain Boss thereupon set to work, and purchased a smauU Liverpool steamer named the victory, whose tonnage he increased to 150 tons. She was provisioned for three years. Oaptain Ross chose for his second in command his ngpnew. Com- mander James Boss, who had been with him on his first arctic expedition, and had subsequently accompa- nied Parry in all his voyages. The other omoers of the vessel were — Mr. William Thom, purser ; Mr. George M'Diarmid, surgeon ; Thomas BlanKy,Thos. Abemethy, and George Taylor, as Ist, 2d, and 3d, mates ; Alex- ander Brunton and Allen Macinnes as 1st and 2d engi- neers ; and nineteen petty officers and seamen ; making a complement in all of 28 men. The Admiralty furnished towcurd the purposes of #e expedition a decked boat of sixteen tons, called the Krusenstem, and two boats which had been used by Franklin, with a stock of books and instruments. The vessel being reported ready for sea was visited and examined by the late Kin^ of the French, the Lords of the Admiralty, and other parties taking an interest in the expedition, and set sail from Woolwich on the 23d of May, 1829. For all practical purposes the steam machinery, on which the commander had greatly relied, was found on trial utterlv useless. Having receive^ much damage to her spars, in a severe gfue, the ship put in to the Danish settlwaent of Holsteinberg, on the Greenland coast, to iffit, and sailed again to the northward on the 26th of June. 13iey found a clear sea, and «ven in the mic'dle of Lan- caster Sound and Barrow's Strait perceived no traces of ice or snow, except what appeared on the Mty sum- mits of some of the moimtains. The thermometer stood at 40°, and the weather was so mild that the officers dined in the cabin without a fire, with the skylight partially open. On the 10th of August they passed Oftpe X ork, aad thence crossed over into Begent JnU ^ (UFr4iPkllOB6 8 SJMXiAD VOYAOA. 167 making the western coast between Sepping's and Elwio Bay on the 16th. They here fell in with those formidable streams, packs, and floating bergs of ice which had offered such obstructions to Parry's ships. From their proximity to the magnetic pole, their compasses became useless as they proceeded southward. On the 18th they reached the spot where the Fury was abandoned, but no rem- nants of the vessel were to be seen. All her sails, stores, and provisions, on land, were, however, found ; the hermetically-sealed tin canisters having kept the provisions from the attacks of bears ; and tlie flour, bread, wine, spirits, sugar, &c., proved as good, after being here four years, as on the first day thev were packed. This store formed a very seasonable addition, which was freely made available, and after increasing their stock to two years and ten months' supply, they Btj|l left a large quantity for the wants of any future explorers. Qn the 15th, crossing Cresswell Bay, they roa^' ed Cape Garry, the farthest point which had been set-^ Parry. They were here much inconvenienced an layed by fogs and floating ice. While moun- tains of ice were tossing around them on every side, they were often forced to seek safety by mooring them- selves to these formidable masses, and driiting with them, sometimes forward, sometimes backward. In this manner on one occasion no less than nineteen miles were lost in a few hours ; at other times they under- went frequent and severe shocks, yet escaped any seri- ous damage. Gapt^ Eoss draws a lively picture of what a ves- sel endures in sailing among these moving hills. He reminds the reader that ice is stone, as solid as if it were sranite ; and he bids him *^ imagine these moun- tains burled through a narrow strait Dv a rapid tide, meeting with the noise of thunder, breaking from each other's precipices huge fragments, or rending each other asunder, till, losing their former equilibrium, they fell over headlong, lining the sea arouna in break- ers and whirling it in eddies There is not a moment ;*.,, 158 PBOABE88 OP AMcno wa^^wmBfti 1b which it can be conjectured what will happen in the next ; there is not one which may not be the last. The attention is troubled to fix on any thin^ amid such con fusion ; still must it be alive, that it may seize on the single moment of help or escape which may occur Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of all, there is nothing to be acted, — no effort to be made, — he must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless, waiting, as he best can, for the fate, be it what it may, which ne cannot influence or avoid." Proceeding southward, Ross found Brentford Bay, about thirty miles beyond Gape Garry, to be of consia- erable extent, with some fine harbors. Landing here, the British colors were unfurled, and the coast, named after the promoter of the expedition, was taken posses* sion of in the name of the King. Extensive and com- modious harbors, named Ports Logan, Elizabeth, and Eclipse, were discovered, and a large bay, which vpi> called Mary Jones Bay. By the end of September the ship haa examined 300 miles of undiscovered coast The winter now set in with severity, huge masses of ice began to close around them, the thermometer sanl) many degrees below freezing point, and snow fell very thick. By sawing through the ice, the vessel was got into a secure position to pass the winter, in a station which is now named on the maps Felix Harbor. The machinery of the steam engine was done away with, the vessel housed, and every measure that could add to the comfort of the crew adopted. They had abundance of fuel, and provisions that might easily be ^tended to three years. . #iOn the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a largo tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and cleaner than those more to the northward. They dis- played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and bearings of the country over which they had traveled, and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neigh- boring coasts, with which they were familiar ; this was revised and corrected by a learned lady named Teriksin, — the females seeminsr. from this and former \' "^ (UPTAfir ROSSES ISOOND YOTAOB. 159 instances, to have a clear knowledge of the bydrcgraphy and geoffraphy of the continent, Days, straits, and riv- ers whicn they had once traversed. On the 6th of April, . Oommander Boss, with Mr. Blanky, the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set out to explore a strait which was reported as Iju^g to the westward, and which it was hoped might leaa to the western sea. After a tedious and arduous journey, they arrived, on the third day, at a bay facing to the westward and discovered, further inland, an eictonsive lake, called by the natives Nie-tyle-le, whence a oroad river flowed into the bay. Their guides informed them, however, there was no prospect of a water comunica- kion south of their present position. Gapt Boss then traced the coast;^fty or sixty miles further south. Several journeys were also made by Conmiander Ross, both inland and along the bays and inlets. On the 1st of May, from the top of a high hill, he observed a large inlet, which seemed to lead to the western sea. In order to satisfy himself on this point, he set out again on the 17th of May, with provisions for three weeks, eight dogs, and tnree companions. Having crossed the great middle lake of the isthmus, he reached his ibiiner station, and thence traced an inlet which was found to be the mouth of a river named by them Garry. From the high hiil, they observed a chain of lakes leading almost to Thom's ]Bay, the Victory's sta- tion in Felix Harbor. Proceeding northwest along the coast, they crossed the frozen surface of the strait which has since been named after Sir James Boss, and came to a large island which was called Matty ; keeping (dbng its northern shore, and passing over a narrow strait, which they named after Wellington, they found themselves on what was considered to be the main- land, but which the mere recent discoveries of Simpson have shown to be an island, and which now bears the name of Kins William's Land. Still journeying on- ward, with difficulties continually increasing, from heavy toil and severe privation, the dogs became ex- hausted with fatigue, and a burden itither than an aid to the travelers. 160 PROGRESS OF ABOTIO DISOOYBBT. - One of their greatest embarrassments was, how to distinffuish between land and sea. ^* When all is ioe, and au one dazzling mass of white — when the surface of the sea its^ is tossed up and fixed into rocks, while the land is, on the contrary, very often flat, it is not always so easy a problem as it mi^ht seem on a supers ficial view, to determine a &ct which appears in words to be extremely simple." Although their provisions began to fall short, and the party were nearly worn out. Commander Boss was most desirous of maldng as muclf western discovery as possible ; theretbre, depos- iting every thi^g that could be dispensed with, he pushed on, on the 28th, with only four days' provisions, and reached Cape Felix, the most northern point of this island, on the tbllowing day. Th^ coast here took a southwest direction, and there was an unbounded ex- panse of ocean in view. The next morning, after hav- \ ing traveled twenty miles farther, they reached a point, wmch Ross called Point Victory, situated in lat. 64^ 46' 19", lon^. 98° 32' 49", while to the most distant one in view, estimated to be in long. 99° 17' 68", he gave the name of Cape Franklin. However loath to turn back, yet prudence compelled them to do so, for as they had only ten days' short allowance of food, and more than 200 miles to traverse, there could not be a moment's hesitation in adopting this step. A high cairn of stones was erected before leaving, in which was deposited a narrative of their proceedings. The party endured much fatigue and suSering on their return journey ; of the ei^t dogs only two sur- vived, and the travelers in a most exhausted state ar- rived in the neighborhood of the large lakes on the Sth of June, where they fortunately fell in with a tribe of natives, who received them hospitably, and supplied them plentifully with fish, so that after a day's i-est they resumed their journey, and reached the ship on the 13th. Captain Koss in the meanwhile had made a f)artial survey of the Isthmus, and discovered another arge lake, which he named after Lady Melville. After eleven months' imprisonment their little ship »!irji#r^*#aK*" ■'.wri-a v. OAPTA^IM ROes's «ECX>ND TOTAAS. lei once more floatod b»>oyap.t on the waves, haying been released from her icy barrier on the 17th of September, but for the next few days made but little progress, being beaten about among the icebergs, and driven hither and thither by the currents. A change in the weather, however, took place, and on the 2da they were once more frozen in, the sea in a week after exhibiting one clear and unbroken surface. All October was passed in cutting through the ice into a more secure locality, and another dreary winter hav- ing set in, it became i -cessary to reduce the allowance of provisions. " lib nter was one c ^ .paralleled severity, tie thermometer falling 92° below freezing point. jDuring the ensuing spring a variety of explo- ratory joTimeys were carried on, and. in one of these Commander Koss succeeded in planting the British flag on the North Magnetic Pole. The position which had been usually assigned to this interesting «pot by the learned of Europe, was lat. 70° N., and long. 98^ 30' "W. ; but Ross, by careful observations, determined it to lie in lat. 70° 6' IV N., and long. 96° 46' 45" W., to the southward of Cape Nikolai, on the western shore of Boothia. But it has since been found that the cen- ter of magnetic intensity is a movable point revolving within the frigid zone. "The place of the observatoir," Ross remarks, "waa as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which £ possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89** 69', being thus within one minute of the vertical ; while the proximity at least of this pole, if not its ac- tual existence where we stood, was further confirmed by the action^ or rather by the total inaction, of the several horizontal needles then in my possession." Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant only from the site determined by Ross. "As soon," continues Ross, "as I had satisfied my own mind on the subject, I made known to* the party this gratifying result of all onr joint labors ; and it was then tVat, amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed tli* m no&Baai or Ascno disooybbt. British &ig on the spot, and took possession of the North Magnetic Pole and its adjoining territory in the name of Great Biitain and King "Wuliam Iv. We had abundance of materials for uuilding in the frag- ments of limestone that covered the beach, and we therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under which we buried a canister containing a record of the interesting fact, only regretting thdt we had not the means of constructing a pyramid of more importance, and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pyramid as larse as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it woula have done more than satisfy our ambition under the feelings of that exciting day." On the 28th of August, 1831, they contriyed to warp the Victory out into the open sea, and made sail on the following morning, but were soon beset with ice, as on t^e former occasion, being once more completely frozen in by the 27th of September. On the previous occasion their navigation had been three miles ; this year it extended to four. This pro- tracted detention in the ice made their present posi- tion one of great danger and peril. As there seemed no proi||>ect of extracting their vessel, the resolution was come to of abandoning her, and making the best of their way up the inlet to Fury Beach, there to avail themselves of the boats, provisions, and stores, wjii^^b would assist them in reaching Davis' Straits, where ^hey might expect to fall in with one of the whale ships. On the 23d of April, 1832, having collected all that was useful and necessary, the expedition set out, drag- ging their provisions and boats oyer a vast expanse of rugged ice. " The loads being too heavy to be car- ried at once, made it necessary to go backward and forward twice, and even oftener, the same day. T>iey had to encounter dreadful tempests of snow and driv\ and to make several circuits in order to avoid impas> sable barriers. The general result was, that by the 12th of May they had traveled 329 miles to gain tliirty OAPTAni boss's SISCOND VOTAdC 163 in a direct line, having in this labor expended a month." After this preliminary movement, thev bade a farewell to theif little vessel, nailing her coior| to the mast. Oa}>t. Ross describes himself as deeply at- fected ; this bein^ the first vessel he had been obliged to abandon of thirty-six in which he had served dm* ing the course of forty-two years. On the 9th of June, Commander Boss and two otheri, with a fortnight's provisions, left the main body, who were more heav- ily loaded, to ascertain the state of the boats and snp- plies at Fury Beach. Betuming they met their com- rades on the 25th of June, reporting that they had foun^ upletely divi- ded by a navigable strait, ten miles wid'e and upward, leading past Back's Estuary, and into the Gulf (of Boothia,) of which the proper naine is Akkolee, not Boothia ; and moreover, tnat th'> t svo seas flow as freely into each other as Lancaster Sound does into the Polar 6ef(." This assumption has since been shown to be incorrect. Capt. Ross asserts there is a difference in khe level of these two seas. ^ ■* 168 PSOGBESB 09 AROTEO DISOOVlOtT. I may here fitly take a review of Captain K»,48's ser- vices. He entered the navy in 1790, served fifteen years as a midshipman, seven as a lieutenant, and seven as a commander, and was posted on the 7th of December, 1818, and appointed to the command of the first arctic oxpedition ot this century. On his return he received many marks of faror from continental sovereigns, was * . knighted and made a Companion of the Bath on tlio 24th of December, 1834 ; made a Commander of the vSword of Sweden, a Knight of the Second Class of St Anne of Prussia (in diamonds,) Second Class of tho rLegion of Honor, and of the Red Easle of Prussia, and of Leopold of Belgium. Received the royal preminn from tho Geographical Society of London, in 1833, fo ,^his discoveries in the arctic regions ; also cold medal* from the Geographical Society of Paris, and the RoyM .Societies of Sweden, Austria, and Denmark. The fre*^ dom^ipi'the cities of London, Liverpool, and Bristo) *, six gold snuff-boxes from Russia, Holland, Denmark Austria, London and Baden; a sword valued at 10(* guineas from the Patriotic Fund, for his sufferings, hav mg been wounded thirteen times in three difierent actions during the war ; and one of the value of 200^. from the King of Sweden, for service in the Baltic and the White Sea. On the 8th of March, 1839, he was appointed to the lucrative post of British consul at Stockholm, which he held for six years. Gaptaik Back's Land Journey, 1833-36. I FouB years having elapsed without any tidings being received of Capt. Iwss and his crew, it began . to bo generally feared in England that they had been added to the number of former sufferers, in the prosecution of their arduous undertaking. Dr. Richardson, wbo nad himself undergone such fnghtftil perils in the arctio regions with Franklin, was the first to call public attention to the subject, in a letter to the Geographical Society, in which he suggested a project for relieving them^ if stiP alive and to be found ; OAFfAIN BAOK^ LAND JOUJUniT. 169 and at the same time volmiteered his services to the Colonial Secretary of the day, to conduct an exploring ■"aS Ithoueh the expedition of Capt. Boss was not under- taken under the auspices of ffovemment, it became a national concern to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and to make, some effort for the relief of the party, whose home at that time might be the boisterous sea, or whose shelter the snow hut or the floating iceberg. Dr. Rich- ard. >n Imposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a northwest direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was to commence his search in an easterly direction. Pass- ing to the north, along the eastern side of this gulf, he would arrive at Point Turnagain, the eastern point of his own former discovery. Having accomplished this, he would continue his search toward the eastward until he reached Melville Island, thus perfecting geographical discovery in that quarter, and a continued coiM line might be laid down from the Fury and Hecla Strait to Beechey Point, leaving only the small space between Franklin's discovenr and that of the Blossom unexplored. The proposal was mvorably received ; but owinff to the political state of the country at the time, the oner was not accepted. A meeting was held in November, 1832, at the rooms of the Horticultural Society, in Begent street, to obtain funds, and arrange for flttins out a private relief expe- dition, as the Admiralty and Government were unable to do this officially, in consequence of Captain Boss's expedition not being a public one. Sir George Cock- burn took the chair, and justly observed that those offi- cers who devoted their time tq the service of science, and braved in its pursuit the dangers of unknown and ungenial climates, demanded the sympathy and assist- ance of all. Great Britain had taken the lead in geo- graphical discovery, and there was not one in this coun- try who did not feel pride and honor in the fame she bad attained by the expeditions of Parry and Franklin ; but if we wished to create future Parrys and Franklins, if we wished to encourage British eaterprise and com ^ m PKOOBK8S OF AKCrnO DI800VESY. ^; ace, we iniist provo ^fatst the ofMcer who is out of .sight ot hift eouutvymaa is not forgotten ; tiiat there is con si deration for his sufferings, and appreciation of his spirit. This redaction will cheer him in tiie hour of trial, and will permit him, whes suirroimded by dangers and privations, to indulge in hope, the matest blessing of man. Captain G«orge Bade, B. N., who was in Italy when the subject was first mooted, hastened to England, and offerea to lead the party, imd his services were accepted. A subscription was enterifllP into, to defray the necessary expenses, and upward of 6000Z. was raised ; of this sum, at the recommendation of Loixl Goderich, the then Secretary of State, the Treasury con- tributed 2000;. After an interview with the king at Brighton, to which he was specially summoned. Captain Bade made prepa- rations for his journey, and laid down his plan of operai- tions^In order to facilitate his views, and give him greater authority over his men, special instructions and authoritv were issued by the Colonial Office, and the Hudson's Bay Company granted him a commission in their service, and piaced every assistance at his disposal throughout their territoiy in l^orth America. Every thinff being definit^ arranged, Capt. Back, accompanied by Dr. Kichard King as surgeon and natu- nUist, with three men who had been on me expedition with Franklin, left Liveroool on the IT-th of February, 1833, in one c^* the New York packet ships, and arrived in Am^ica atler a stormy passage of thirty-five days. He p'oceeded on to Montreal, whare he had great diffi- culty in preventing two of the m^i from leaving him, as their hearts began to &il them at the prospect of the severe journey witb its attendant difficulties, which they had to encoux^r. Four volunteers ik)m tiie Boyal Artillery corps hero joined him, and some voyageurs having been engaged, the party left, in two canoes, on the S5th of April. Two of his party deserted from him in the Ottawa river. , On the 28th of June, having obtained his comple- ttient of men, ^e may be said to ha^e commenced his eAFTAIN BACKUS LAND WVmfWr, 171 journey. They suffered dreadtVilly from myrxads of 6and-flie$ and musquitoes, being so diefiffuroa by their attacks that their features could scarcely oe recognised. Horse-flies, appropriately styled ^^ bull^clogs,'* were an- other di'eadAii pest, wbich pertinaciously gorged them- selves, like the leech, until they seemed ready to burst. '^It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against these puny bloodsuckers'; though you cmsh thousands of them, tens of thousands arise to ayenffii the death of their cdjjtiiiiions, and you very soon discover that the conflict \^ich you are waging is one in which you are sure to be defeated. So great at last are the pains and fatigue in buffeting awav this attacking ibree, that in despair you throw yourself, half suffocated, in a blanket, with your &ce upon the ground, and snatch a few min- utes of sleepless rest." Capt. Back adds that the vig- orous and unint«rmittinff assaults of these tormenting pests conveyed the mond lesson of man's helplefsness, since, with all our boasted strength, we are unable to repel these feeble atoms of creation. ^* How," he says, '' can I possibly ^ive an idea of the torment we endured from the sand-^es ? As we divided into the confined and suffocating chasms, or waded through the close swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air ; to see or to speak was equally difficult, for they lushed at every undefended part, and flxed their poisonous fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as if leeches had been applied, and there was a burning and irritating pain, rollowed by immediate inflamma- tion, and pri^ucing giddiness, which almost drove us mad, and caused us to moaii with pain and agony. At the Pine port&^e, CSptain Back engaffed the services of A. E. McLeod, in the employ of tne Hud- Bon^s Bay Company, and who had been fixed upon by Governor Simpson, to aid the expedition. lie was accompanied by his wife, three cuildren, and a ser- vant; and had just returned from the Mackenzie River, with a large cargo of furs. The whole family were at- tached to the party, and after some detentions of a general and unifhportant character tk\ey arrived at 11 m raoeKKSs OP knatro msoovsRY. i,» Fort Ohipewysn on the 20th of July. Fort Eesoiu tian, on Great Slave Lake, was reached on the 8th of Auffost. Tne odd assamblage of goods and vojagenrs in theii encampment are thus graphically described by the traveler, as he glanced around him. *' At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil-cloth, con- taining some three blankets, called a bed ; near it a piece of dried buffalo, fanciMly oniamented with long black hairs, which no art, alas, can prevent Am insin- uating themselves between the teeth, as yon laboriously masticate the tough, hard flesh ; then a tolerabl}' clean napkin, spread by way of table-cloth, on a red piece of canvas, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuits, and a salt-cellar ; near this a tin plate, close by a square kind of box or safe of the same material, rich with a pale, greasy hair, the produce pf the colony at Red Riven; and ^e last, the f&r-renowned pemmican, unquestion- ably the best food of the country for expeditions such as ours. Behind me were two Soxes containing astro- nomical instr'iments, and a sextant lying on the ground, while the different corners of the ten^were occupied by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian shot-poucb, bags, basins, ana an unhappy-looking japanned pot, whose melancl)oly bumps and hollows seemed to re- proach me for many a bruise endured upon the rocks and portages between Montreal and Lake Winnipeck. Nor were my crew less motley than the furniture of the tent. It consisted of an £!nglishman, a man from Stornaway, two Canadians, two Metifs or half-breeds, and three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have pro- duced a worse confusion of unharmonious sounds than was the conversation they kept up.'' Having obtained at Fort Resolution all possible in* formation, from the Indians luid others, relative to tlie course of the northern rivers of which he was in search, he divided his crew into two parties, five of whom were left as an escort &>r Mr. McLeod, and four were to ac- company himself in search of the Great Fish River, Aince appropriately earned afler Back himself. CAVTAXK back's LAUD JOOSIIXT. 178 On the 19th of August they began the ascent oi the Hoar Frost Kiver, whose course was a series of the most fearful cascades and rapids. The woods here were so thick as to render them almost impervious consisting chiefly of stunted firs, which occasioned in finite trouble to the party to force th«ir way through added to which, they had to clamber over fallen trees. - through rivulets, and over bogs and swampe, until the difficulties appeared so appSling, as almost to dis- hearten^ipe party from prosecuting their journey. The heart of Captain Back w&s, however, of too stem a cast to be dispirited by difficulties, at which less persever \ng explorers would have turned away discomfited, and cheering on his men, like a bold and gallant leader, the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at length in an open space, where they rested for awhile to recruit their exhausted str^igth. The |^ce was, indeed, one of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag to the height of 2000 feet from the base, and the course of the river here, in a state of contraction, was marked by an uninterrupted line of foam. However gc^at the beauty of the scenery may Le, and however resolute may be the will, severe toil will at length relax the spirits, and bring a kind of despon- dency upon a heart naturally bold and undaunted. This was tbund particularly the case now with the interpre- ter, who became a dead weight upon the party. Bapid now succeeded rapid ; scarcely had they surmounted one &11 than another presented itself, rising like an am- phitheater before them to the height of fifty feet. They tiowever, gained at length J]^e ascent of this turbulen and ~ unfriendly river, tne^mantic beauty and wild scenery of which were strikingly grand, and after pass ing successively a series of portages, rapids, falls, lakesi, and rivers, on the 27th Back observed from the summit of a high hill a very large lake full aH deep bays and islands, and which has been named Aylmer Lake, after the Governor-General of Canada at that time. The boat was sent out wiUi three men to search for the*lake, or outlet of the river, which they discovered on the see* ^f4 PBOaKFSB OF ASCnO DISOOWiftT. ond daj, and Captain Back himself, during their ab* sence, aUo accidentally discovered its sonrce in the Sand Hill Lake, not &r from his encampment. !Not prouder was Braoe when he stood on the greiBn sod whidi cOTers the source of the Kile, than was Captain Back when he foimd that he was standing at the source of a river, the existence of which was Imown, but the course of wMch was a problem, no traveler had yet ven- tured to solve. Yielaing to that pleasurable emotion which discoverers, in the first bound of theii^ltansport,' may be pardoned for indulging, Back tells us he threw himself down on the bank ana drank a hearty draught of the Hmpid water. <rm ill rest of the journey on foot over precipitous rocks, through fnghtfol gorges and ra- vines, heaped with masses ofgr&mte, and along narrow ledges, where a false step womd have been fatal. At Fort Reliaace, the party found Mr. McLeod had, during their absence, erected the frame-work of a com- fortable residence for them, and all hands set to work t» conplete it After many obstacles and difficulties, ii was nnished. GAITAIN sack's LAND J017BNBT. m Dr. Khis joined them on iho 16th ni September^ witk two laden oateanx. « '» Ob the 5th of November, thej exchanged their ooM tents for the new house, which was fifty fbet long bj thirty broad, and contained foor rooms, besides a spa- clous hall in the center, for the reception and accom- modation of the Indians, to which a sort of rude kitchen was attached. As the winter advanced, bands of starving Indians continued to arrive, in the hope of obtaining some re- lief, as little or nothing was to be procured by hunting. They would stand around while the men were taking their meaL, watchir every mouthful with the most lon^^ing, imploring look, but yet never uttered a com- plaint. At other times they would, seated round the fire, oc^ cupy themselves in roasting "tind devouring small bits of their reindeer garments, which, even when entire, afforded them a very insuiflcient protection against a temperature of 102® below freezing point. Tne sufi!erin^ of the poor Indians at this period are described as frightfuL ^'Famine with her gaunt and bony arm," says Back, " pursued them at every turn, withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless on the cold bosom of the snow." It was impossible^ to afford relief out of their scanty store to all, but even small portions of the mouldy pemmican intended for the dogs, unpalatable as it was, was gladly received, and saved many from perishing. '* O&n," adds Back, '^ did I share my own plate ^th the children whose helpless state and piteous cries were peculiarly distress- ing ; compassion f<»* the fai^grown may, or may not, be felt, but that he^rt must to cased in steel which is insensible to the cry of a child for food." At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appear- ance with an opportune supply of a little meat, which in some measure enabled Captain Back to relieve the sufferers around him, many of whom, to his great de- light, went away with Akaitcha The stock of meat was soon ezhamted, and they had to open their lete^. IW. PBOOBIM OV ABOTIO DISOOYSBT. mie«n. The offiMrs contented themseWes with the Bhort supply of half a pound a day, but the laboring mei^ eould not do with less than a pound and three- 2uartersc l^e cold now set in with an intensity which laptain Back had never before experienced, — the ther* mometer, on the 17th of January, oeing 70° below zera ^' Such indeed, (he says,) was the abstraction of heat, that with eight larse logs of dry wood on the fire, I could not get the uiermometer higher than 12° below zero. Ink and paint froze. The sextant cas^ and boxes of seasoned wood, principally fir, all split sThe skin of the hands became dry, cracked and (^ened into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were obliged to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after washing my face within three feet of the fire, my hair was actually clotted with ice before I had time to dry it.'* The hunters suffered severely from the intensity oi\ iie cold, and compared the sensation of handling their guns to that of touching red-hot iron, and so excessive was the pain, that th^y were obliged to wrap thonei of leather round the triggers to keep their fingers &om coming into contact with the steel. The sufferings which the party now endured were great, and had it not been for the exemplary conduct of ^aitcho in procuring them game, it is to l>e doubted whether any would have survived to tell the misery they had endured. The sentiments of this worthy sav age were nobly expressed — '^ The ^'^eat chief tniists in Ufli, and it is bietter that ten Indians perish, than that one white man should perish through our negligence and breach <^ faith." On the 14th of rnTiriinijgiifi McLeod and his family removed to a place half way between the fort and the Indians, in order to fiicilitate. their own support, and assist in procuring food by hunting. His situation, however, became soon one of the greatest embarrass* ment, he and his &mily being surrounded by difficnl* ties, privations, and deaths. Six of the natives neai him sank under the horrors of starvation, and Akaitcht and hie hunters were t^^elve days' mMreh distant, tn OA-PTAIN BAOK'b land JWiMRK t : tSTf Toward th« end of April, Oapt. Back began to make arrangements for conBtmcting boats for prosecuting the expedition once more, and while so employed, oii^e 25th a messenger arrived with the gratifying intelli- gence, that Oapt. Ross had arrived safely in £ngland, confirmation of which, was afforded in extracts from the Times and Meraldy and letters from the long lost adventurers themselves. Their feelings at these glaci tidings are thus described : — ^^ In the fhllness of our hearts we assembled together, and humbly offered up our thanks to that merciM Providence, who in the beautiful language of scripture hath said, ^ Mine own will I bring t^am, as I did sometime from the deeps of the sea.' The thought of so wonderful a preserva- tion overpowered for a time tiie common occurrences of life. We had just sat down to breakfast ; but our uppetite was gone, and the day was passed in a fever- isn state of excitement Seldom, indeed, did my friend Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyfUl occasion economy was forgotton ; a treat was given to the men, and for ourselves the social sympathies were quickened by a genewus bowl of punch.'' Oapt. Back's rormer interpreter, Augustus, hearing that he was in the country, set out on toot frt)m Hudson's Bay to join him, but getting separated from his two companiopPj the gallant little fellow was either exhausted by suffer- ing and privations, or, canght in the midst of an open traverse, in one of those terrible snow storms which may be eaid to blow almost through the firame, he had sunk to lise no more, his Ueachea remains being di8> covered not tax from the Biviere a Jean. '^ Such," says Capt Back, ^^ was the nftiserable end of poor Au- gustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, who had won the regard, not of myself only, but X may add, of Sir J. Franklin and Br. Richardson also, by qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest as in tne nighest forms of social life, are the ornament and charm of humanity." On the 7th of June, all the preparations being com* }^eted, MoLood having been previously sent on to huati » -%.^ ITQf pjK)eBRM or ARcrio usootsby. and deposit casks of meat at varioas stag^, Back tot out with Mr. lUng, accompanied by four voyagers and an Indian guide, l^e stores not required wore buried, and the doora and windows of the liouso blockecl up. At Artillery Lake, Back picked up the remaiudet of his party, with the carpenters who had been em ployed "preparing boats. The lightest and best was chosen and placed on runners plated with iron, and in this manner she was drawn over the ice by f:wo men and six fine dogs. The eastern shore of the lake was fol- lowed, OS it was found less rocky and precipitous than the opposite one. The march was prosecuted by night, the air being more fresh and pleasant, and the part^ took rest in the day. The glare of the ice, the difh- culty encountered in getting the boat along, the ice be- ing so bad that the spikes of the runners cut through instead of sliding over it, and the thick snow whicfi tell in June, greauy increased the labor of getting along. The cold, raw wind pierced through them in spite of cloaks and blankets. After being caulked, the boat was launched on l^e 14th of June, the lake being suf- ficiently unobstructed to admit m her being towed along shcnre. The weather now oecame exceedinffl^^ unpleasant — hail, snow, and rain, pelted them one anei th^ other for some time without respite, and then only yielded to squalls that overturned the boat. With alternate spells and haltinga to rest, they however, gradually advanced on the traverse, and were reallj' making considerable progress when pelting showers of sleet and drift so dimmed and confttsed the sight, dark- ening the atmosphere, and limiting their view to onl^^ a lew paces before them, ^s to render it an extremely perplexing task to keep their course. * On the 23d of June, they fortunately fell in with a cadhe made for them by their avant-courier^ Mr. Mc- Leod, in which was a seasonable supply of deer and musk-ox flesh, the latter, however, so impregnated witb tlie odor from which it takes its name, that the men do ebired they would rather starve three days than swal l^w a iHOffthftil of it. To removte this unfhvorablo im OAFTAIM BACKd LAND JOU&NKT. 179 preseion, Cr^L Back ordered tlio dailv rations to l)o nerved from it for his own lucss as well as theiitj, tak- ing occasion at the same time, to impress on their minds the injurious consequences of voluntary abstinence, and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to such food as the country miffht supply. Soon after an- other cache was met with, thus maxing eleven animals in all, that had been thus obtained and secured for them bv the kind care of Mr. McLeod. On the 27th, they reached Sandy Hill Bay, where they found Mr. McLeod encamped. O*^ the 28th, the boat being too frail to be dragged over the portage, about a quarter of a mile in length, was earned bodily by the crew, and launched safely in the Thlewrce-choh or Fish River. After crossing the portage beyond Musk-ox Ilapid, about four miles in length, and having; all his i)arty together, Captain Back took a sur^^ey ot liis provisions for the three months of operations, wnich lie found to consist of two boxes of maccaroni, a case of cocoa, twenty-seven bags of pemmican of about 80 lbs. each, and a kegjvith two gallons of rum. This he considered an adequate supply if all turned out sound and good. The difficulty, however, of transporting a weight of 6000 lbs, over ice and rocks, by a circuitous route of full 200 miles, may be easily conceived, not to mention the pain endured in walking on some parts where the ice formed innumerable spiles that pierced like needles, and in other places where it was so black and decayed, that it threatened at every step to engulf the adventurous traveler. These and similar di&cul ties could only be overcome by the most steady perse verance, and the most deteimined resolution. Among the group of dark figures huddled together in the Indian encampment around them, Oapk. Back found his old acquaintance, the Indian beauty of whom mention is made in Sir John Franklin's narrative \m- der the name of Green Stockings. Although sur- rounded with a family, with one urchin in her cloak clinging to her back, and several other maternal ac- companiments, Oapt. Back iivunediately recoirnized H ' jH 18C PHOOBE88 OF AKOTllU mBOOYERT, her, and called her by her name, at which she '7,111 1, and said she was an old woman now, and bcggi^d that she might be relieved by the *' medicine mau " for she was very much out of health. However, notwithstand- ing all this, she was still the beauty of her tribe, and with that consciousness which belongs to all belles, sav- age or polite, she seemed by no means displeased whoti Back sketched her portrait. Mr. McLeod was now sent back, taking with him ton persons and fourteen dogs. His instructions were to proceed to Fort Kesolntion for the stores expected to be sent there by the Hudson's Bay Company, to build a house in some good locality, lor a permanent fishing station, and to be again on the banks of the Fish Eivor by the middle of September, to afford Back and his party any assistance or relief they might require. \ The old Indian chief Akaitcho, hearing from the in- terpreter that Capt. Back was in his immediate neigh- borhood, said| " r have known the chief a long time, and I am afraid I shall never see him again ; I will go to him." On his arrival be cautioin^ Back against the dangers of a river which he distinctly told him tho present race of Indians knew nothing of. He also warned him against t\e treachery of the Esquimaux, which he said was always maskea under the guise of friendship, observing they would attack him when he least expected it. " I am afraid," continued the good old chief, '^ that I shall never see you again ; but should you escape from the great water, take care you are not caught by the winter, and thrown into a situation like that in which you were on your return from the Cop- permine, for you are alone, and the Indians cannot assist you." The carpenters, with an Iroquois, not being further required, were dismissed to join Mr. McLeod, and on the 8th of July they proceeded down the river. The boat was now launched and laden with her cargo, which, together '\Hth ten persons, she stowed well enough for a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea way. The weight was calculated at 3360 lbs., exclusive of the awning, poles, sails, &c., and the crew. OAPrAIM HACK*! LAUD JOUBKSl. 181 Their projfp*e88 to tho Bca woa now ono continnod sno- «v8sion of cutofferons and formidable faljs, rapide, and cataracts, which frequently made Back hold his breath, expecting to see tho ooat oashed to shivers against some protruding rocks amidst the foam and fur^ at the foot of a rapid. The only wonder is how in their frail leaky boat tney ever shot one of the rapids. Bapid after rapid, and fall after fiEdl, were passed, each accompa- nied with more or less danger ; and in one instance the boat was only saved by all hands jumping into the breakers, and keeping her stem up the stream, until she was cleared from a rock that had brought her up. They had hardly time to g^et into their places again, when they were carried with considerable velocity past a river which joined from the westward. After passing no less than five rapids within the distance of three miles, they came to one long and appalling one, full of rocks and large boulders ; the sides hemmed in by a wall of ice, and the current flying with the veloc- ity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened of her cargo, and Capt. Back placed himself on a high rock, with an anxious desire to see her run tho rapid. He had every hope which confidence in the judgment and dexterity of his principal men could inspire, but it was impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal to the expedition. Away they went with the speed of an arrow, and in a moment the foam and rocks hid them from view. Back at last heard what sounded in his ear like a wild shriek, and he saw Dr. King, who was a hundred yards before him, make a sign with his gun, and then run forward. Back followed with an agitation which may be easily conceived, when to hi& inexpressible joy he found that the shriek was the tri ompnant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in a small bay below. For nearly one hundred miles of the distance they were impeded by these frightftil whirl pools, and strong and heavy rapids. On opening one of their bags of pemmican, the in genuity of the Indians at pilfering was discovered, sue cessivo layers of mixed sand, stones, and green mea. m X82 PBOQKESS OF AJIOTIO mSOOVKBT. having been artfully and cleverly substituted tor the dry meat. Fearful that they might be carrying heaps of stone instead of provision, Back had to examine carefully the remainder, which were all found sound and well-tasted. He began to fear, from the inclinatioE of the river at one time toward the south, that it would be found to discharge itself in Ohesterfield Inlet, in Hudson's Bay, but subsequently, to his great joy, it took a direct course toward the north, and nis hopes of reaching the Polar Se^ were revived. The river now led into several large lakes, some studded with islands, which were named successively after Sir H. Pelly, and Mr. Garry, of the Hudson's Bay Company ; two others were named Lake Macdougall and Lake Frankli?\. On the 28th of July, they fell in with a tribe of about thirty-five very friendly Esquimaux, who aided thenfi in transporting their boat over the last long and steet portage, to wmch his men were utterly unequal, and back justly remarks, to their kind assistance he is mainly indebted for getting to the sea at all. It was late when they got away, and while threading their course between some sand-banks with a strong current, they first caught sight of a majestic headland in the extreme distance tc the north, which had a coastJike appearance. This important promontory, Back subsequently named after our gracious Queen, then Princess Victoria. " This, then," observes Back, " may be considered as the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which after a violent and tortuous course of 630 geographical miles, running through an iron-ribbed country, without a single tree on the whole line of its bauKS, expanding into five large lakes, with clear horizon, most embarrassing to the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and rap- ids, to the number of eighty-three in the whole, pours its water into the Polar Sea, in lat. 67° 11' N"., and long. 94° 30' W., that is to say, about thirty-seven miles more south than the Coppennine River, and nineteen miles more south than that of Back's River, (of Frank lin,) at the lower extrem'ty of Bathurst's Inlet." CAFTAIN back's LAITD ioUBNET. 188 For several days Back was able to make but sIotv progreRR along the eastern shore, in consequence of the Bolia body of drift-ice. A barren, rocky elevation of 800 feet high, was named Cape Beaufort, after the present hydrographer to the Admiralty. A bluff point on the eastern side of the estuary, which he considered to be the northern extreme, he named Cape Hay. Dean and Simpson, however, in 1839, traced the shore much beyond this. The difficulties met with here, be- gan to dispirit the men. For a week or ten days they had a continuation of wet, chilly, foggy weather, and the orly vegetation, fern and moss, was so wet that it would not bum ; being thus without fuel, during this time thev had but one hot meal. Almost without water, without any means of warmth, or any kind of warm or comforting food, sinking knee-deep, as they proceeded on land, in the soft slush and snow, no won- der that some of the best men, benumbed in their limbs and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect before tnem, broke out for a moment, in low murmur- ings, that* theirs was a hard and painfiil duty. Captain Back found it utterly impossible to proceed, as he nad intended, to the Point Turnagain of Franklin, and after vainly essaying a land expedition by three of the best walkers, and these having returned, after mak- ing but fifteen miles' way, in consequence of the heavy rains and the swampy nature of the gro^ind, he camf to the resolution of returning. Reflecting, he says, on the long and dangerous stream they had to ascend combining all the bad features of tne worst rivers in the country, the hazard of the fall? and the rapids, and the feiender hope which remained of their attaining even a single mile further, he felt he had no choice. Assembling, therefore, the men around him, and ur furling the British flag, which was saluted with threo cheers, he announced to them this determination. The latitude of this place was 68° 13' 57" N., and longitude 94° 58» 1" W. The extreme point seen to the north- ward on the western side of the estuary, in latitude 68** 46' N"., longitude 96' 20' W., Back named Cape Eich- 184 PBOGKE86 OF ARCTriC DI8C0VEBY. ardsoij. The spirits of many of the men, whose health had suffered greatly for want of warm and nourishing food, now brightened, and they set to work with alac- rity to prepare for their return journey. The boat be- ing dragged across, was brought to the place of their former station, after which the crew went back four miles for their baggage. The whole wa*. safely con- veyed over before the evening, when the water-casks were broken up to make a fire to warm a kettle of cocoa, the second hot meal they had had for nine days. On the 15th of August, they managed to make their way about twenty miles, on their return to the south- ward, through a breach in the ice, till they came to open water. The difficulties of the river were doubled in the ascent, from having to proceed against the stream. All the obstacles o*f rocks, rapids, sand-banks, and long portages had to be faced. In some days as many as sixteen or twenty rapids were ascended. They found, as they proceeded, tliat many of the deposits of pro- visions, on which they relied, had been discovered and destroyed by wolves. On the 16th of September, they met Mr. McLeod and his party, who had been several days at Sand Hill Bay, waiting for them. On the 24th, they reached the Ah-hel-dessy, where they met with some Indians. They were ultimately stopped by one most formidable perpendicular fall, and as it was Ibund impossible to convey the boat further over so rilgged and mountainous a country, most of the declivities of which were coated with thin ice, and the whole hidden by snow, it was here abandoned, and the party pro- ceeded the rest of the journey on foot, each laden with a pack of about 75 lbs. weight. Late on the 27th of September, they arrived at their old habitation. Fort Reliance, after being absent nearly four months, wearied indeed, but " truly grateful for the manifold mercies they had experienced in the course of their long and perilous journey." Arrange- ments were now made to pass the winter as comforta- bly as theii' meajis would permit, and as there was no probability that there would le sufficient food in tha ■#. L I CA^U^ sack's hpip mS^m*: ^^ bouse for the consumption of the whole party, all ex- cept six were sent with Mr. McLeod to the fisheries. The Indians brought them provisions from time to time, and their friend Akaitcho, with his followers, though not very successful in hunting, t\ra8 not wanting in his contributions. This old diieftain was, however, no longer the same active and important personage he had been in the days when he rendered such good service to Sir John Franklin. Old age and infirmities were creeping on him and rendering him peevish and fickle. On the 2l8t of March following, having left direc- tions with Dr. King to proceed, at the proper season, to the Company's fectory at Hudson's Bay, to embark for England in their spring ships. Captain Back set out on his return through Canada, calling at the Fishe- ries to bid farewell to his esteemed friend, Mr. McLeod, and arriving at the Norway House on the 24th, where he settled and arranged the accounts due for storos, &c., to the Hudson's Bay Company. He proceeded thence to New York, embarked for England, and ar- rived at Liverpool on the 8th of September, after an absence of two years and a half. Back was honored with an audience of his Majesty, who expressed his ap- probation of his efforts — first in the cause of human- ity, and next in that of geographical and scientific re- search. He has since been knighted ;; and in 1835, tJjQ Koyal Geographical Society awarded 1 'm their fto*d medal, (the Royal premium,) for his CiUcoT<5ry c. the Great Fish River, and navigating it t;> the sea on the arctic coast. Dr. King, with the remainder ^f the pavh , (eight men,) reached England, in the liud sou's Bay Com- pany's ship, in the following month, October. Of Captain Back's travels it has been justly observed that it is impossible to rise from the perusnl of them without being struck with astonishment at the extent of sufferings which tho human frame can endure, and at the same time the wondrous display of fortitude whi^h was exhibited under circumstances of so appalling a imture, ^m mM 1:-^ ■H. 186 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEBT. as to invest the naiTative with the character of a roman- tic fiction, rather than an nnexaggerated tale of actual reality. He, however, suffered not despair nor despon- dencj to overcome him, but gallantly and undauntedly pursued his course, until he returned to his native land to add to the number of those noble spirits whose names will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments to the country which gave them birth. Captain Back's Voyage of the Terror. In the year 1836, Captain Back, who had only re- turned the previous autumn, at the recommendation of the Geographical Society, undertook a. voyage in the Terror up Jludson's Strait. ' He was to reach Wager River, or Repulse Bay, and to make an overland journey, to examine the bottom of Prince Regent's Inlet, sending other parties to the north and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, and to reach, if possible, Franklin's Point Turn- again. Leaving Englaiid on the 14th of June, he arrived on the 14th of August at Salisbury Island, and proceeded up the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got frozen in, and on the breaking up of the ice by one of those frequent convjilsions, the vessel was drifted right up the Frozen Channel, grinding large heaps that op posed her progress to .powder. From December to March she was driven about by the fiuy of the storms and ice, all attempts to release her being utterly powerless. She thus floated till the 10th of July, ana for three days was on her beam-ends ; but on the 14th she suddenly righted. The crazy vessel with her gaping wounds was scarcely able to transport the crew across the stormy waters of the Atlantic, but the return voyage which was rendered absolutely neces- sary, was fortunately accomplished safely. I shall now give a concise summary of Captain Sir George Back's arctic services, so as to present it mora readily to the reader: DEASJt AND SIMTSOK's DISOOVERIES. 187 In 1818 he was Admiralty Mate on board the Trent, dnder Franklin. In 1819 ne again accompanied him Du his first overland jomuey, and was with him in all those perilous sufierings which are elsewhere naiTated. He was also as a Lieutenant with Franklin on his sec- md journey in 1825. Having been in the interval pro- moted to the rank of Commander, he proceeded, in 1833, accompanied by Dr. King and a party, through North- ern America to the Polar Sea, m search ot Captain John Eoss. He was posted on the 30th of September, 1835, and appointed in the following year to the com- mand of the Terror, for a voyage of discovery in Hud- sou's Bay. ]\£essbs. Dease Aim Simfson's Dibcovebies. In 1836 the Hudson's Bay Company resolved upon undertaking the completion of the survey of the north ern coast of their territories, forming the shores of Arctic America, and small portions ot which were left undetermined between the discoveries of Captains Back and Franklin. They commissioned to this task two of their oflScers, Mr. Tnomas Simpson and Mr. Peter Warren Dease, who were sent out wich a party of twelve men from the com pauy's chief fort, with proper aid and appliances. De- scending the Mackenzie to the sea, they reached and surveyed in tfuly, 1837, the remainder of the western part of the coast left imexamined by Franklin in 1825, from hiR Heturn Beef to Cape Barrow,. where the Bios Bom's boats turned back. Proceeding on from Return Reef two new rivers were discovered, — the Garry and the Colville; the latter more than a thousand miles in length. Althougli it was the height of sunjmer, the ground, was found frozen several inches below the surface, the spray froze on the oars and rigging of their boats, and the ice lay smooth and solid in the bays, as in the depth of winter. On the 4th of August, having left tho boats and ]jro coeded op by land, Mr. Simpson arrived at Elsun Bay 18 H* 188 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. wLicb point Lieutenant Elson had reached in the Bios* Bom's barge in 1826. The party now returned to winter at Fort Confidence, on Great feear Lake, whence they were instructed to piosecute their search to the eastward next season, and to communicate if possible with Sir George Back's oxpeditien. They left their winter quarters on the 6th of June, 1838, and descended Dease's Eiver. They found the Coppermine River much swollen by floods, and encum- bfcred with masses of floating ice. The rapids they had to pass were very perilous, as may be inferred from the following graphic description: — ""We had to pull for our lives to keep out of the suc- tion of the precipices, along whose base the breakers raged and foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly before noon, we came in sight of Escape Eapid of Franklin ; and a glance at the overhanging cliff' told us that there was no alternative but to run down with a fiiU cargo. In an instant," continvies Mr. Simpson, " we were in the vortex ; and before we were aware, my boat was borne toward an isdated rock, which the boiling surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was no longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to run between it and the lofty eastern cliff; Tlie word was passed, and every breath was hushed. A stream which dashed down upon us over the brow of the preci pice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with the spray that whirled upward from me rapid, forming a terrific shower-bath. The pass was about eight feet wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would have been instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's consummate 'F]^ ill, the boat shot safely through those jaws of death, u,n involuntary cheer arose. Our next impulse was io turn round I. view the fate of our coni- rades behind. They had profited by the peril we in- curred, and kept without the treacherous rock in time.'' On the 1st of July they reached the sea, and en- camped at tt e mouth of the river, where they waited for tliG openii g of the ice till the 17th. They doubled DEASE AND SIMPoON's DISCOVERIES. 189 Cape Barrow, one of the nortliern points of Bathurst's Inlet, on the 29th, but were prevented crossing the inlet b^ the continuity of the ice, and obliged to make a circuit of nearly 160 miles by Arctic Sound. Some very pure specimens of copper ore were found on one of the Barry Islands. Ajfter doubling Cape Flinders on the 9th of August, the boats were arrested by the ice in a little bay to which the name of Boat Haven was given, situate about three miles from Frank- lin's farthest. Here the boats lingered for the best part of a month, in utter hopelessness. Mr. Simpson pushed on thorfefore on the 20tn, with an eirplorinff pa^y of seven men, provisioned for ten days. On the first day they passed Point Tumagain, the limit of Frank- lin's survey in 1821. On the 23d they had reached an elevated cape, with land apparently closing all round to the northward, so that it was feared they had only been traversing the cop,st of a huge bay. But the perseverance of the adventurous exj^orer was fully re- warded. "With bitter disappointment," writes Mr. Simpson, " I ascended the height, from whence a vast and splen- did prospect burst suddenly upon me. The sea, as if transformed by enchantment, rolled its fierce waves at my feet, and beyond the reach of vision to the eastward, Islands of various shape and size overspread its surface ; and the northern land terminated to the eye in a bold and lofty cape, bearing east northeast, thirty or forty- miles distant, while the continental coast trended away southeast. I stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland, at the eastern outlet of an ice-obstructed strait. On the extensive land to the northward I bestowed the name of our most gracious sovereign Queen Victoria. Its eastern visible extremity I called Cape Pelly, in com- pliment to the governor of Hudson's Bay Company." Having reached the limits which prudence, dictated in the face of the long journey back to the boats, many of his men too being lame, Mr. Simpson retraced his 8tep>;, and the party reached Boat-haven on the 20f.h of Augn3t, having traced nearly 140 miles of new coast M": r tt'-'J' :t\ IGO PROGRESS OF AROTIO W8C0VERY. % ITio boats were cut out of their icy prison, and com menced their re-ascent of the Coppermine on the 3d o\ September. At its junction with tne Kendal Eivcr thc^^ left their boats, and shouldering their packs, traversed the barren grounds, and arrived at their residence on tiie lake by the 14th of September. The Ibllowinff season these persevering explorers com- menced their third voyage. They reacned tlie Bloody Fall on the 22d of June, 1839, ana occupied themselves for a week in carefully examining Richardson's River, which was discovered in the previous .year, and dis- ejmr^s itself in the head oi' Back's Inlet. On the 3d oiJmy they reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky heights were 8ui*prised to observe Coronation Gulf almost clear of ice, while on their former visit it could have been crossed on foot. They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier than * Mr. Simpsoij. reached it on foo* tlie previous year, and doubled Cape Alexander, the northernmost cape in this quarter, on the 28th of July, after encountering a vio- lent gale. They coasted the huge bay extending for about nine degrees eastward from this point, being -fa- vored with clear weather, and protectccl by the various islands they met from the crushing state of the ice drifted from seaward. On the 10th of August they opened a strait about ten miles wide at each extremity, but narrowing to four or live miles in the center. This strait, which divides the main-land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's Strait. On the 13th of August they had passed Richardson's Point and doubled Point Ogle, the furthest point of Back's journey in 1834. By the 16th they had reached Montreal Island in Back's Estuary, where they found a deposit of pro- visions which Captain Back had left there that day five years. The pemmican was unlit for use, but out of several pounds of chocolate half decayed the men con- trived to pick sufficient to make a kettleful acceptable drink in honor of tlie ocp^lon. There were also a tin DBASE AND SIMPSCN'B DISCOVERIES. m case and a few fish-hooks, of wliich, observes Mr. Simpson, " Mr. Dcaso and I took possession, as memo- rials of our having breakfasted on the very spot where tlio tent of our gallant, though less successful precuraor stood that very day five years before. By the 20th of August they had reached as far as Aberdeen Island to the eastward, from which they had a view of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with that which had been so correcthr described to Parry by the intelligent Es(][uimaux female as Akkolee. From a mountainous ridge about three miles inland a view of laiid in the northeast was obtained supposed to be one of the southern promontories of Boothia. High and distant islands stretcliing from E. to £. N. E. (probably some in Committee Bay) were seen, and two considerable ones were noted far out in the ofling. Rememberinff the length and difficulty of their return route, the explorers now retraced their steps. On their return voyage they traced sixty miles of the south coast of Boothia, where at one time they were not more than ninety miles from the site of the magnetic pole, as de- teianined by Captain Sir James C. Ross. On the 25th of August they erected a high cairn at their farthest point, near Cape Herschel. About 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria Land, as far as Cape Parry, were also examined; "Wellington, Cambridge, and Byron Bays being sur- veyed and accurately laid down. They then stretched across Coronation Gulf, and re-entered the Copper- mine Biver on the 16th of September. Abandoning here one of their boats, with the re- mains of their useless stores and other articles not required, they ascended the river and reached Fort Confidence on the 24th of September, after one of the longest and most successful boat voyages ever per- formed on the Polar Sea, having traversed more than 1600 miles of sea. In 1888, before the intelligence of this last trip had been received, Mr Simpson was presented by the Royal Geographf ?a Society of London with th« X92 ^ PROOKESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVEilY. I Fuimder's Gold Modal, for discovering and tracing in 1837 and 1838 about 300 miles of tlio arctic shores ; but the voyage which 1 have just recorded has added ^rciitly to the laurels which he and hig bold compan< ions have achieved. Db. John Bae's Land Expedition, 1846-47. ^ Alth )UGH a little out of its chronological order, I ' give Dr. Kae's exploring trip before I proceed to no- tice Frai-klin's last voyage, and the difl*. ^nt relief ! expeditions that have been sent out during the past ^ two years. ♦ In 1846 the Hudson's Company dispatched an ex- '•pedition of thirteen persons, under the command of *>■ br. John Rae, for the purpose of surveying the unex- •^^plored portioi of the Rrctic coast at the northeastern angle ot the American continent between Dease and Simpson's ferthest, and the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's 'Bav, on tlie 6th of July, 1846, and returned in safety to York Factory on the 6th September in the follow- ing year, utter having, by traveling over ice and snow ill the Bpri/ip^, traced the coast all the way from the ' Lord Mayor'i Bay of Sir John Ross to within eight ' or ten miles of the Fury and Hecla Strait, thus prov- " ing thfit eminent navigator to have been correct in stating iloothia to be a peninsula. '■ On the 15th of July the boats first fell in with the ice, about ten miles north of Cape Fullerton, and it was so heavy and closely packed that they were >' obliged to take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet 2 that opportunely presented itself, where they were - closed up two days. On the 22d the party reached the most southerly *• opening of "Wager Kiver or Bay, but were detained the whole day by the immense quantities of heavy ico ^{driving in and out with the flood and ebb of the tide, ^ which ran at the rate of eight miles an hour, forcing up m DB. JOnK RAe's land XZFEDrnON. nm wfie ice and grinding it affainet the rocks with a noieo like thunder. On the night of the 24th the boats anchored at the head of the Repulse Bay. The follow- ing day they anchored in Gibson's Cove, on the banks of which they met with a small party of Esquimaux ; several of the women wore beads round their wrists, which they had obtained from Captain Parry's ship when at Igloolik and Winter Island. But they had neither heard nor seen anything of Sir John Franklin. . Learning from a chart drawn by one of the natives, that the isthmus of Melville pen in 'la was only about forty miles across, and that of th - vving to a number of large lakes, but live miles ot Iv, >\ild have to be passed over. Dr. Rae determine o make his way over this neck in preference to ^^oceoding by Fox's Channel through the Fuiy and Hecla Strait. One boat was therefore laid up with her cargo in security, and with the other the party set out, assisted by three Esquimaux. After traversing several large lakes, and crossing over six " portages," on the 2d of August they got into the salt water, in Committee Bay, but bemg able to make but little progress to the northwest, in consequence of heavy gales and closely packed ice, he returned to his starting point, and made preparations for wintering, it being found impossible to proceed with the survey at that time. The other boat was brought across the isthmus, and all hands were set to work in making preparations for a long and cold v;inter. As no wood was to be had, stones were collected to build a house, which was finished by the 2d of Sep- tember. Its dimensions were twenty foot by fourteen, and about eight feet high. • The roof was formed of oil-cloths and morse-skm coverings, the masts and oars of the boats serving ^s rafters, while the door was made of parchment skins stretched over a wooden frame. The deer had already commenced migrating south- ward, but whenever he had leisure, Dr. Rae shoul- dered his rifle, and had frequently good success, shoot-* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 »%^ V] n %j^ V ^> /A 'W V 1.0 tii US 2.5 2.2 I.I 2.0 1.8 |I.25,U |,.6 ^ 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 194 FKOOSUSS OF ASCTnO DI800YEST. ing on oue day seven deer within two miles of tbeii encampment. On the 16th of October, the thermometer fell to zero, and the greater part of the reindeer had passed; but the party nad by tim time shot 130, and during the remainder of October, and in November, thirty* two more were killed, so that with 20(^ partridges and a few salmon, their snow-built larder was pretty well stocked. Sufficient fuel had been collected to last, with econ- omy, for cooking, until the spring ; and a couple of seals which had been shot produced oil enough foi their lamps. By nets set in uie lakes under the ice,' a few salmon were also caught. After passing a very stormy winter, with the tern- ]^erature occasionally 47° below freezing point, and often an allowance of but one meal a day, toward the \ end of February preparations for resummg their sur- veys in the spring were made. Sleds, similar to those used by the natives, were constructed. In the begin- ning of March the reindeer began to migrate north- ward, but were very shy. One was shot on the 11th. Br. Rae set out on the 5th of April, in company with three men and two Esquimaux as interpreters, their provisions and bedding being drawn on sleds by four dogs. Nothing worthy of notice occurs in this exploratory trip, till on the 18th Kae came in sight of Lord Mayor's Bay, and the group of islands with which it is studded. The isthmus which connects the land to the northward with Boothia, he found to be only about a mile broad. On their return the party fortunately MX in with four Esquimaux, from whom they obtained a quantity of seal's blubber for fuel and dog's food, and some of the flesh and blood for their own use, enough to maintain them for six ^ays on half allowance. AH the party were more or less affected with snow blindness, but arrived at their winter quarters in Re- pulse Bay on the 5th of May, fill safe and well, but as black as negroes, from the combined effects of frost- bites and oil smoke. ^ mt. JOHN RAX'S LAND EX PE DtnON. 195 On the evening of the 13th May, Dr. lUe again started with a chosen party of four men, to trace the west shore of Melville jpeninsula. Each of the men carried about 70 lbs. weight. ' Being unable to obtain a drop of water of nature's thawinff, and fuel being rather a scarce article, they were ooliged to take small kettles of snow under the blankets with them, to thaw by the heat of the body. Having reached to about §9° 42' N. lat., and 85**^ 8' long., and their provisions being nearly exhausted, they were obliged, much to their disappointment, to turn back, when only within a few miles of the Hecla and Fury Strait. Early on the morning of the 30th of May, the party arrived at their snow hut on Gape^ lliomas Simpson. The men they had left there were well, but very thin, as they had neither caught nor shot any thing eatable, except two marmots, and they were preparing to cook a piece of parchment skin for their supper. " Our journey," says Dr, Rae, " hitherto had been the most fatiguing I had ever experienced ; the severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had reduced the whole party very much. However, we marched merrily on, tightening our belts — mine came in six inches — the men vowing that when they got on full allowance, they would make up for lost time." On the morning of the 9th of June, they arrived at their encampment in Bepulse Bay, after being absent twenty-seven days. The whole party then set actively to work procuring food, collecting fuel, and preparing the boats for sea ; and the ice in the bay having broken u^ on the 11th of August, on the 12th they left their winter quarters, and after encountering head winds and stormy weather, reached Churchill Kiver on the 31st of Au^t. A gratuity of 400?. was awarded to Mr. Rae, by the Hudson's Bay Company, for the 'uportant services ho had thus rendered to vhe cause i science. •i»e PBOORESS or AROnO DIBOOTESY. ft' ,^ Captain Sib John Fbanklin's Last ExpBDrribN, 1846-61. TnAT Sir John Franklin, now nearly six years al> sent, is alive, we dare not affirm : but that nis ships should be so utterly annihilated tnat no trace of them CAn be discovered, or if they have been so entirely lost, that not a single life should have been saved to relate the disaster, and that no traces of the crew or Tessels should have been met with by the Esquimaux, 6r the exploring parties who have visited ana investi- gated those cr.asts, and bays, and inlets to so consid- erable an extent, is a most extraordinary circumstance, it is the* general belief of those officers who have served in the former arctic expeditions, that whatever accident may have befallen the Erebus and Terror, they cannot wholly have disappeared from those seas, and that some traces of their rate, if not some living remnant of their crews, must eventually reward the search of the diligent investigator. It is possible that they may be found in quarters the least expected. There is still reason, then, for hope^ and for the great and honorable exertions wliich that divine spao: in the soul has prompted and still keeps alive. "There is something," says the Athenaeum, "in- '^nsely interesting in the picture of those dreary seas amid whose strange and unspeakable solitudes our lost ^ countrymen ai'e, or have been, somewhere imprisoned for so many years, swarming with the human life that is risked to set them free. Ko haunt was ever so ex- citing — so fiill of a wild grandeur and a profound *patho8 — as that which haa just aroused tne arctic echoes ; that wherein their brothers and companions have been beating for the track by which they may rescue the lost mariners from the ic" ^sp of tne Ge nius of the Korth. Fancy these ir n their adaman tine prison, wherever it may be,-"-ouained up by the polar spirit whom they'had dared, — lingering through years of cold and darkness on the stinted ration that scarcely feeds the blood, and the feeble hope that FBANELIN's last EXPEBinOK. jm iquimaux, scarcely snataips the heart, — and then imagine the rush of emotions to sreet the first cr^ froiu that wild hunting ground which should reach thfiic ears 1 Through many summers has that cry been flstened for, no doubt. Something like an expectation of the rescue which it should announce has revived with each returning sea- son of comparative light, to die of its own baffled in- tensity as the long darl montlis once more settled down upon tiieir dreary prison-house. — There is scarcely a doubt that the track beine now stmcl^ these long- pining hearts may b6 traced to their lair. But what to tjio anxious questioning which has year by year ^one forth in search of their fate, will be the answer now revealed ? The trail is found, — but what of the weary feet that made it? "We are not willing needlessly to alarm the public sympathies, which have been so gene- rously stirred on oehalf of the missing men,— but we are bound to warn our readers against too sanguine an entertainment of the hope wliich the first tidings of the recent discovery is calculated to suggest. It is scarcely possible that the provisions which are sufficient for three years, and adaptable for four, can by any economy which implies less than starvation have been spread over five, — and scarcely probable that they can have been made to do so by the help of any acciaents which the place of confinement supplied, ne cannot hear of this sudden discovery of traces of the vanished crews as living men, without a wish which comes l^e a pang that it had been two years ago — or even last year, fi makes the heart sore to think how close tq] ief may have been to their hidingrplace in former years — when it turned away. There is scarcely reason to doubt that had the present circumstances of the search occurred two years ago — last year perhaps — the wanderers would have been restored. Another year makes a frightful difference in the odds : — and we do not think the public will ever feel satisfied with what has been done in this matter if the oracle so long questioned, and silent so long, shall speak at last — and me answer shaU be. at is too late'" »^: i*r'iit#T* "WW 198 PBOOBBBS OF ASCTIO DI800TKBT. In the prosecution of tlie noble enterprise oil wUch all eyes are now turned, it is not merely scientific re- search and geographical discovery that are at present occupying the attention of the commanders of vessels sent out ; the lives of human beinss are at stake, and above all, the lives of men who nave nobly periled every thing in the cause of national — nay, of umversal progress icmd knowledge ; — of men who have evinced on this and other expeditions the most dauntless bra* verv that any men can evince. Who can think of the probable ikte of these gallant adventurers without a shudder? - Alas! how truthfully has Montgomery depicted the &tal imprisonment of vessels in these regions :— Th«re Ket « xtaaA in tluit mlm of froft, Not wrecked, not atnuKled, yet forerer lott ; Its keel embedded in tiie solid mass ; Its glistening sails vppeu expanded glass ; The transvviae topes with peaiis enonnoos ■tnii|^ The yards with icicles grotesquely hung. Wrapt in the topmast worouds there rests a boj. His old sea-lkring other's only joy ; Sprune from a noe of rovers, ocean bom, Kursed at the helm, he trod dry land with soom , Through fourscore years from port to port he tesol $ Quicknnd, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd ; Now cast ashoira^ tbot^h like a hulk he lie^ His son at sea is eyer in his eye. He ne'er diaU know in his Northumhritm cot; How brief that son's career, how strange his lot ; Writhed round the mast, aud sepulchred in air. Him shall no worm doyour, no yulture U»* ; Corigeal'd to adamant his fhisie shall last^ Though empires chtmge, till tide and time be past Mom shall return, and noon, and vn, and night Meet here with interchanging shade and light ; But from that barque no timber shall decay. Of these cold forms no feature pass away ; Perennial ice around th' encrusted bow, Thfl peopkd-Kieck, and full-rigg'd mast shidl gimr Till from the sun himself the whole be hid. Or spied beneath a crystal pyramid : As in pure amber with diyeisent lines^ A rugged shell emboe^ with sea-weed, shiae^ From age to ago increased with annual snow. This now Mout Blane among the clouds may glow. Whose conic peak that earliest greets the dawn. And latest from Uie sun's tdiut eye withdrawn. \ 'S' « VRAKKUH^B LASm JCXTAMTIOn. cr IM ShaU from the Zenitli, tliroagh inourobont i^oon. Bum like a laoip upon this naval tomb. Bat when th' arclumger* trumpet sounds on lii|^ The pile ahall burnt to atoms throwh the sky. And leave its dead, upstarting at the oJl, Nahbd and pale, before the Judge of aU. All who read these pages will, I am sure, fuel the deepest sympathy and admiration of the seal, persever- ance, and conjugal affection displayed in the noble and untiring efforts of Lady Franklin to relieve or to dis- cover the fate of her distingaished husband and the gal- lant party under his command, despite the difficulties, disappointments, and heart-sickening ^^ hope deferred " with which these efforts have been attended. All men must feel a lively interest in the fote cf these bold men, and be most desirous to contribute toward their resto- ration to their country and their homes. The name of the present Lady Franklin is as ^^familiai* as a house- hold word " in every bosom in England ; she is alike the object of our admiration, bur sympathy, our hopes, and our prayers. Kay, her name and that of her hus- band is breathed in prayer in many lands — and, oh! how earnest, how zealous, how courageous, have been her efforts lo find and relieve her husband, for, like Desdemona, " She loved him for the dangers he had passed, And he loved her that she did pity them." How has she traversed from port to port, bidding " God speed their mission " to each public and private ship going forth on the noble errand of mercy — how freely and promptly has she contributed to their comforts. How has she watched each arrival from the north, scanned each stray, paragraph of news, hurried to the Admiralty on eacn rumor, and kept up with unremit- ting labor a voluminous correspondence "^irith all the quarters of the globe, fondly wishing that she had the wings of the dove, that she might flee away, and be with him from whom Heaven has seen fit to separate her so long. An American poet well depicts her sentiments in tlio fol Wing lines : — # ^Wv* PBOORBiS OF ABCmO DI800VXBS. LADY FRANKLIN'S APPEAL TO THE NORTBi. Oh, wbara^ vaj long kut^ne I art thoa, *Hid Aietic bom and wintrj ikieat Deep^ PoUtf night it on «• iiow. And Hope, long wreckad, but modn a j CMI I am like thee I &m frozen plains In the dtefir sone and nmleM air, Uj dying, lonely heart complain^ And chilla in aorrow and despair. Tell me, ye Northern winds t that sweop Down from the raylee#, dusky day — Where ye have borne, and where ye keep^ My wdl-beloTed within yotir sway ; Tell me, when next ye wiklly bear llie icy message in your breath, Of my beloved I Oh tell me where Te keep him on the shores of death. Tell me, je Polar seas I that roll From ice-bound shore to sunny isle-* Tell me^ when next ye leave the Pole^ Where ye have chained my lord the white! On the bleak Northern diff I wait With tear-pained eyes to sse ye come 1 Will ye not tell me^ era too late ? Or will ye mock while I am dumb t Tell me, oh tell me, mountain wav«s ! Whence have ye leaped and sprung to-dijt ]bve ye passed o'er their sleeping graves That ye runh wildly on your way ? Will ye sweep on and bear me too Down to the caves within the deep 7 Oh, bring some token to my view That ye my loved one safe will keep I Canst thou not toll me, Polar Star 1 Where in the frozen waste he knesllt And on the icy plains afar His love to Ood and me reveals 7 . Wilt thou not send one brighter ray To my lone heart and aching e^t Wilt thou, not tun m^ night to day. And wake my qant ere I die 7 ^dl me, oh dntaj North I for maw My soul is like thine AvcUe fdne; Beneath the darkened skies t-bow* Or ride tho stormy sea alone I Tell me of my beloved ! fori Know n^ a ray ray lord withonfc I Oh, tell rac, that I may not die ? A sorvower on the sea of doubt I W^*^ i0*^* i'T ■» FRANKLIlllS LAST XXPEDrnoH; 201 lu the earl^ part of 1849, Sir E. Parry stated, thai in ofifering his pinions, he did bo under a deep senst of the anxious and even painM resppnsibilitjr, both w regarded the risk of life, as well as the inferior consid* oration of expense iuTolved in further attempts to res cne our gallant countrymen, or at least the surviving portion of them, from their perilous position. But it was his deliberate conviction, that the time had not yet arrived when the attempt ought to be given np as hopeless : the farther efforts making might also be the means of determining their fate, and whether it' pleased God to give success to those efforts or not, the Lords of the Admiralty, and the country at large, would hereafter be better satisfied to have followed up the noble attempts already made, so long as the most dis- tant hope remains of ultimate success. In the absence of authentic information of the fate of the gallant band of adventurers, it has been well observed, the terra inoognita of the northern coast of Arctic America, will not only bo traced, but minutely surveyed, and the solution of the problem of centuries will engage the marked attention of the House of Com- mons, and the legislative assemblies of other parts of the world. The problem is very safe in their hands, so safe indeed that two years will not elapse before it is solved. The intense anxiety and apprehension now so gener- ally entertained for the safety of Sir John Franklin, and the crews of the Erebus and Terror, under his com- mand, who, if still in existence, are now passing through the severe ordeal of a fifth winter, in those inclement regions, imperatively call for every available effort to be made for their rescue from a position so perilous ; and as long as one possible avenue to that position re- mains unsearched, the country will not feel satisfied that every thing has been done, which perseverance and experience can accomplish, to dispel the mystery which at present surrounds their fate. Capt. Sir James Ross having returned successful from ^iR antarctic expedition in the close f>| the preceding m. 203 PBOOBEM OF ASOnO DI800VXST. **•' year, in the spring of 1845, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, upon the recommindation of Sir John Barrow, determmed on sending out -another ex- pedition to the North Pole. Accordingly the command was given to Sir John Franklin, wno re-commissioned the Erebus and Terror, the two vessels whidi had just returned from the South Polar Seas. The expedition sailed from Sheemess on the 20th of May, 1846. The following are the oflBcers belonging to these vessels, and for whose safety so deep an int^est is now felt : — Erebus, Captain — Sir John Franklin, K. C. H. Commander-^ James Fitzjames, (Capt) Lieutenants — Graham Gore, (Commander,) Henry T. D. Le Yesconte, James William Fairholme. Mates — Chas. F. des Vaux, (Lieut.,) Bobert O'Sar* gent, (Lieut.) Second master — Hennr F. Collins. - * Sursecm — Stephen S. Stanley. * Assistant-Surgeon — Harry I); S. Goodsir, (acting.) Paynjaster and Purser — Chas. H. Osmer. Ice-master — James Beid, acting. 58 Petty Offio^, Seamen, &c. Full Complement, 70. Terror, Captain — Fras< K. M. Crozier. ^ Lieutenants — Edward Little, (Commander,) Geo. H. Hodgson, John Living. Mates — Frederick J. Hornby, (Lieutenant,) Bobert Thomas, (Lieuy Ice-master — T. Blanky, ^acting.) Second Master — G. A. Maclean. » Surseon — John S. Peddie. Assistan^urgeon — Alexander McDonald^ Clerk in Charge — Edwin J. H. Helpman. 57 Petty Officere, Seamen, &c. %^ull Complement, 68. H'. ra4jnajif*8 last KXpyunoK. Those offioent whose rank is within parentkesis kiye been pipomoted auring their absence. The following is an outline of Capt Franklin's ser* vices as recorded in 0'Bjme*s Naval Biography : — Sir John FraaUin, K^ K. R. G., K. aH^D. O. L^ F. It E« was bom in jL78d, at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire, and is brother of the late Sir W . Fvaoklin, Kt, Chief Justice of Madras. He entered t^e navy in October, 1800, as a boy on beard the Polyphemos, 64, Oaptain John Lawfom, under whom he served as midshipman in the action off OopenhaKen, dd of April, 1801. He then sailed with Captain Flindera, in H. M. fJlooD In* vesti^tor, on a voyage of discovery to New Bc^and^ joining there the armed' store-ship Pofpoise f li*$^as wreck^ on a coral reef near Cato Bank on the ITth of August, 1803. I shall not follow him through all his subsequent period of ^active naval service, in which he displayed conspicuous zeal and activity. But we find him taking part at the battle of Tra&Igar, on-the 21st ^ ^f October, 1805, on board the Bellerophosy where he ''was signal midshipman. He was oonnrmea as lieu- tenant, on board the Bedford, 74, 11th of February, 1808, and he then escoited the loyal family of Portugal,* from Lisbon to South Amcnca. H^ was engaged^ V9. very arduous services during the expedition aminst Kew Oiieans, in the close ^ 1814, and was shgfatfy wounded in boat service, and for his brilliant services- on this occasion, was warmly and officially recommended for promotion. On the 14th of January, 1818, he 4M^ •umed command of the kired brig Trent, in wfaidh.rhe accompanied Captain B. Bi^han, of the Dorothea, on the perilous yoya^e of discovai^ to the neighborhood of Spitzbergen, wmch I haye fully recorded elsewhere. In April, 1819, having paid off we Trent In 'the pre ceding jMo^e^ber, he was inyested with ihe condujpt of an ezpediition destined to proceed overland £roM the^ shores of 2H!i^sasL'^ Bay, for the purpose more partictK^ larly of ai^esta^^ff the actu^ position of the mouth of the Coppermine ]tiver« and the exact trending of the shores of the Polar Sea, to die castwai^d of that river 13 I .4: W^ S04 PBOOBMl Of ABOnO IlfMK>TEBr. The details of this fearM undertaking, which en- dured until the summer of 1822, and in tne course of which, he reached as far as Point Tnmagain, in latitude 68° 19' N.. and longitude lOO*" 25' W., and effected a journey altogether of 5650 miles, Gantain Franklin has ably set forth in his *^ Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the year 1819-22^" and which I have abridged in preceding pages. He was promoted to the rank of Commander, on the Ist of January, 1821, and reached his post rank on the 20th of November, 1822. On the 16th of February. 1825, this energetic officer again left England on another ex- pedition to the Frozen BegioQs, having for its object a co-opei'ation with Captains F. W . Beechey, and w . E. Parry, in ascertaining from opposite quarters the exr istence of a northwest passa^. The results of this mission wiU be found in detail in Captain Franklin's ^Narrative of a Second Expedition to tiie Shores of the Polar Sea, in 1825-7." !>On his return to England, where he arrived on the 26^ of Sept., 1827, ftanWin was presented by the Geographical Society of Paris, with a gold medal val- ued at 1200 francs, for having made the most important acquisitions to geographical Knowledge during tne pre- ceding year, and on the 29th of April, 1829, he received the honor of knighthood, besides being; awarded ii;i JiUy following the Oxford degree of a D. C. L. From 1830 to 1834, he was in active service in com- mand of H. M. S. Bainbow, on the Mediterranean sta- tion, and for his exertions during that period as con- nected with the troubles in Oreece,Was presented with the order of the Kedeemer of Greece. Sir John was created a K. C. H. on the 25th of January, 1836, and was for some time Governor #f Van Diemen's Land. He married, on the 16th of August, 1823, Eleanor Anne, youneest daughter of W. Porden, Esq., architect, of Bemersweet, London, and secondly, on the 5th of November, 1828, Jane, second daughter of John Gri^ fin, Esq., of Bedford Plac^. "^ (CSaptain Croaer was in all Parry 'is expeditions, hav VRANKUK'S UJn EXTKDITION. 90i big beeB midshipman in the Fnry in 1821, in th« HeclA in 1824, went ont M Lieutenant in the Hecla, with Parry, on hie boat expedition to the Pole in 1827, ▼olunteerea in 1886 to go out in aearch of the missing whalers and their crews to Davis' Straits, was made a Oaptain in 1841, and was second in command of the and on his 3tio expedition under Sir Jame^Boss^ I, appomted to the Terror, as secRid i, m command antarctic return, under Fnfnklin. Lieutenant Gore served as a mate in the last fearful vojaffe of the Terror, under Back, and was also with Ross in the antarctic expedition. He has attained his commander's rank during his absence. Lieutenant Fairholme was in the Niger expedition. Lieutenant Little has also been promoted during his absence, and so have all the mates. Oommander Fitzjames is a brave and gallant officer, who has seen much service in the East, and has attained to his post rank since his departure. • The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel -in which Captain Sir G. Back made his perilous attempt to reach Bepulse Bav, in 1886. The Erebus and Terror were not expected home nn^-^ 1088 succosts had earl^ rewarded their efforts, or some casualty hastened their return, before the close of 1847, Qor were any tidines anticipated from them in the in- terval ; but wh'en we autumn of 1847 arrived, without %ny .ntelligence of the ships, the attention of H. M. Gk>vemment was directed to the neceftity of searching for, and conveying relief to them, in case of their being imprisoned in the ice, or wrecked, and in want of pro- visions and means of transport. For this purpose a searching expedition in thre* divisions was fitted out by the government, in the early . part of 1848. Hie investigation was directed to three different quarters simultaneously, viz : Ist, to that by which, in ca^ <^ success, the ships would come out m the Polar S^a, to the westward, or Behring's Straits. This consisted of a Uli^le ship, the Plover, commanded by Oaptain Moore, which left England in the latter end iOS PBOOBESS OF AUOTIO DISOOVBKT. iH of Jaaaary, for the purpose of entering Bebring's Strgit It was intended that she should arrive there in the month of July, and having looked out hr a wiiiter har- bor, she might send out her boats northward and east* ward, in which directions the discovery ships, if suc- cessful, would be met with. The Plover, however, in her first season j|ever even approached the plaee of her destination^ owi^ to her settmg off too late, and to her bad sailing properties. ' Her subsequent proceedings, and those of her boats along th^ coast, will be founa narrated in after pages. The second division of the expedition was one of boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Kivers, or irom the 135th to the 115th degree of W. longitude, together with the south coast of Wollaston Land, it being 'sup^ posed, that if Sir John Franklin's party had been com- pelled to leave the ships and take to the boats, they would make ^r this coast, whence they could reach the Hudson's Bay Company's posts. This party was placed under the command of the faithful friend of Franklin, and the companion of his former travels, Dr. Sir John Richardson, who landed at New York in April, 1848, and hastened to join his men and boats, which were already in advance toward the arctic shore. He was, however, unsuccessful in his search. The remaining and most important 'portion of this searching expedition consisted of two stdps under the command of Sir 9ames Boss, which sailed in May, 1848, for the locality in which Fmnklin's ships entered on this course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of* Davis' Straits. These did not, however, succeed, owing to the state of the ice in getting into Lancaster Sound until the season for operations had nearly closed. These ships wintered in the neighborhood of I^eopold Island, Eegent Inlet, and missing the store^hip sent out with pro- visions and fUel, to enable them to stop out another year, were driven out through the Strnit by the pack of ice, and returned home unsudlfessful. The subse- quent expeditions consequent upon the failure of tha T'- IBAHSLIN'S f.48ir XXPBDITIOir. Wfi foregoing will be found folly detailed and narrated in their proper order. * ', Among the number of volunteers for the service of exploration, in the difierent searching expeditions, were the following: — Mr. Ohas. Beid, lately commanding the whalinff sMp Pacific, and brother to the ice-master on board Sie fjebos, a man of great experience and rosnectability. fl||k The Kay* Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara la search of C&j^t Oonolly and Col. Stoddart Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five years as an officer and partner of the Hudson's Bay Company, and who has recently published an interesting narm- tive of his experience in the northwest r^ons. Dr. Biohflrd King, who accompauied Capt. Back in his land jovmey to the mouth of the Great Fish Biver. Lieut. Sherard Osbom, R. N., who had recently gone out in the Pioneer, tender to the Kesolute. f Commander Forsyth, R. N"., who volunteered for all the e:q>edition8, and was at last sent out by Lady Frank- lin in the Prince Albert. Dr. McCormick, R. N., who served under Captain Sir E. Parry, in the attempt to reach the ITorth Pole, in 1827, who twice previously volunteered his services in 1847. Capt. Sii* John Ross, who has gone out in the Felix, fitted out b^ the Hudson's Bay Company, and by pri- vate subscriptions ; and many others. Up to the presient time no intelligence of any kind has been received respecting the enpedition, and its fate is now exciting the most intense anxiety, not only on the part of the British government and public, but of the Tdiole civilized world. The maratime powers of Europe and the United States are vying with each other as to who diall be the first to discover some trace of the Hissing navigators, and if they be still alive, to render ihem assistance. The Hudson's Bay Company have, with a noble Hberalitv, placed all their available re- sources of men, provisions, and the services of their chief and most eaaerienced traders, at the disposal of govemm©!it. TheRussian authorities have also given if: 208 PBOOBESB or Aaano maooTwaY, every facility for difiiisiiig information and aififosding assistance in their territories. In a letter from Sir John Franklin to Colonel Sabine, dated from the Whale Fish Jslands, 9th of July, 1845, after noticing that, including what they had received from the. transport which had accompamed them so far, the Erebus and .Terror had on board provisions, fuel, clothing and sffts for three years complete from that date, i. e. to July, 1848, he continues as follows: — "I hope my dear wite and daughter will not be over-anxious if we shoidd not return by the time they have fixed upon; and I must beg* of yoil to give them the benefit of your advice and experience when that arrives, for you Imow well, that even after the second winter, without success |, in our object, we should wish to try some oth^ channel, if the state of our provisions, and the health of th^ crews justify it. Gapt. Dannett, of the whaler. Prince of Wales, while in Melville Bay, last saw the vessels of the expedition, moored to an iceberg, on the 26th of July, in lat. 74° 48' N., leng. 66° 13' W., waiting for a favorable open- ing through the middle ice froml3affin's Bay to Lancas- ter Sound. Capt. Dannett states that during three weeks after parting company with the ships, he experienced very fine weather, and thinks they would have made good progress. Lieut. Griffith, in command of the transport which accompanied them out with provisions to Baffin's Bay, reports that he M; all hands well and in high Bpirits. They were then furnished, he adds, with every species of provisions for three entire years, independently of five bullocks, and stores of every description for the same period, with abundance of fuel. ' ' The following is Sir John Franklin's <^cial letter sent home by the transport: — ;^. « WhalerFiah Islands, 12th of July, 1846. " I have the honor to acquaint you, for the informa- tion of the Lords Commissioners oPIhe Admiralty, that \ s xWEAXEUH^ LA«r BZPBEOnOML aod her Majesty's skips Erebus and Terror, with the trans- oort, arrived at this anchorage on the 4tk instant, hav- ing had a passage of one month from Stromness : the transport was immediately taken alongside this ship^ that she might be the nK>re readily cleared ; and we have been constantly emplojred at thiat operation till last evening, the delay having been caused not so much in getting the stores tranuerr^iio eithe? of the ships, as in makin^^ the best stowaeV^of them below, as well as^ the upper deck ; the ships are now com- plete with supplies of every kind for three ye«rs; they are therefore very deep; but, happily, we have no reason to expect niuch sea as we prm. * In f^bruary, 1847, the Lords of the Admiralty state, that having: unlimited confidence in the skill and re- sources of Sir JohirFranklin, they " hav^as yet felt no ap|)rehension8 about his safety ; but on the other hand, it IS obvious, that if no accounts' of him should arrive by the end of this year, or, as Sir John Boss expects, at an earlier period, active steps must then be taken." C^>tain Sir ^Edward Parry fully concurred in these ^ews, observing, " Former experience has clearly shown that with the resources taken from this country, two winters may be passed in the polar regions, not only in safety, but with comfort ; and if anv inference can be drawn from the absence of all intelligence of the ex se- dition up to this time^ I am disjposed to consider it fa- ther in &vor than otherwise pf the success which > as attended their efforts." Captain Sir G. Ba(^, in a letter to the Secretary of SI3 nKXSBESS OF ABOne IHSOOVXBT. the Admiralty, under date 27th of Jtmustj, 1848, says '^ Z cannot bring myself to entertain more than ordi- nary anxiety for the safety and return of 8ir John Franklin and his gallant companions." Oaptun Sir John Bosb records, in February, 1847, his opinion that the expeditioD. was frozen xm beyond Melville Island||AN>m the kno^rn intentions oi Sir John Franklin to put Ais ships into the drift ice at the west- ern end of Melville Island, q risk which WiMte deemed in the highest degree imprudent by Lieutenant Parry and the officers of the expedition of 1819-20, with ships of a less draught of water, and in every respect better calculated to sustain the pressure of the ice, and other dangers to which they must be exposed ; and as it is now well known that the expedition has not suc- ceeded in passing Behring^s Strait, and if not totally lost, must have been carried by the ice that is known to drift to the southward on land seen at a great dis- tance in that direction, and from which the accumu- lation of ice behind them will, as in Koss's own caee, forever prevent the return of the ships ; consequently they must be abandoned. When we remember with what eitreme difficulty Koss's party traveled 300 miles over much smoother ice after they abandoned their vessel, it appears very doubtftil whether Franklin and his men, 13S in number, could possibly travel 600 miles. In the contingency of the ships having penetrated some considerable distance to the southwest of Cape Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in the narrow channels of the Archipelago, which there are reasons for believing occupies the space between Vic- toria, WoUaston, and Banks' Lands, it is well re- marked by Sir John Richardson, that such accidents among ice are seldom so sudden but that the boats of one or of both ships, with provisions, can be saved; and in such an event the survivors would either l^turc to Lancaster Strait, or make for the continent, accord ing to their nearness. Colonel Sabine remarks, in a letter dated WoolricJ*, ^^v VAAKXUN^ LIBT BXFBMTIOV. 813 6th of May, 1847,—" It was Sir John Franklin's inten- tion, if foiled at one point, to try in luceession all the probable openings into a more navicable part of the Polar Sea : the range of coast is considemble in which memorials of the ships' proerest would have to be sought for, extending from Melville Island, in the west, to the great Sound at the head of B^n's Bay, in the east." Sir John Kichardson, when appealed to by the Admi- ralty in the spring of 1847, as regarded the very strone apprehensions expressed at that time for the safety ot the expedition, considered they were premature, as the ships were specially equipped to pass two winters in the Arctic Sea, and until the close of that vear, he saw no well-grounded cause lor more anxiety tnan was nat- urally fdt when the expedition sailed firom this country on an enterprise oi peril, though not greater than that which had repeated^ been encountered by others, and on one occasion by Sir John Boss for two winters also, but who returned in safety. Captain Sir James C. Koss, in March, 1847, writes* ^'I do not think there is the smallest reason for appre- hension or anxiety for the safety and success of the expedition ; no one acquainted with the nature of the navigation of the Polar Sea would have expected thev would have been able to get through to Behring's Strait without spending at least two winters in those regions, except under unusually favorable circumstances, which all the accounts iroxa the whalers concur in proving they have not experienced, and I am quite sure neither Sir John Franklin nor Captain Crozier expected to do so. " Their last letters to me from Whale Fish Islands, the day previous to iimr departure from them inform me that they had taken on t)oard provisi(ms for three years on full allowance, which they could extend to four years without any serious inconvenience ; so that we may feel assured they cannot want from that cause untiL after the middle of July, 1849 ; it therefore does not appear to me at all desirable to send after thein u^til the spring of the next year." (1848,) ^ au PBOOBiBM or ABono meeoyEBT. In the plan eubmitted by Captain F. W. Bcecbey, R. N., in April, 1847, alter pi^nusing ^ that there does not at pr«seiU aj^ar to be any reasonable apprehcn- •ion for the ■a£Btj of the expedition," he su^sted that it would perhi^ be prad^t that a reliet expedition •hoold be sent out that season to Oape Walker, wliere information of an important nature would most likely be found. From this vicinity one vessel could proceed to examine the various points and headlands |n Kegent Inlet, and also those to the northward, while the other watched the passage, so that Franklin and his party might not pass unseen, should he be on his return. At the end of the season tile ships could winter at Port Bowen, or any other port in the vicinity of Leopold XshuuL ■ -^->ii^^''■^ I '' In the sprinff of 1848," he adds, ** a party should be' directed to explore the coast, down to Meda and Fury Strait, and to endeavor to communicate with the party dispatched by the Hudson's Bay Company in that direc- tion ; and in connection with this part of the arrange- ment, it would render the plan complete if a boat could be sent down Back's Biver to range ih» coast to the eastward of its mouth, to meet the above mentioned party ; and thus, while it would complete the geography of that part of the American coastj it would at the same time complete the line of inf^mation as to the extensive measures of relief which their lordships have set on foot, and the precise spot where assistan^ce and depots <^ provisions are to be found. l%is part of the plan has si^gested itself to me from a conversation I had with Sir John Franklin as to his first efibrt being made to the westward and southwestward of Cape Walker. l^ is possible that, after passing the Cape, he may have oeen successM in getting down upon Victoria Land, and have passed his first winter (1845) thereabot;it, and chat he may have spent his second winter at a still more .advanced station, and even endured a third, without either a prospect o£ success, or of an extrication of his vessels within a given period of time. % ^' If, in this condition, which I trust may not be the ■41s, ."Df* CA'r'aoirs and Buoonnoiis. »15 !, Sir John IVMiklin should reBolre upon taking to tuB boats, he woidd prefeinrtitemptiaff a boat navigation throngh ^r James Koss's Strait, and up Begent Inlet, to a long land joiarnej across the continent, to the Hud- son's Bay Settlementi, to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly unequal.'' Sir John Eichardson remarks upon the above sugges- tions, on the 5th of H&y? 1847, — ** Witii respect to a party to be sent down iUack's River to the bottom of Begent Inlet, its size and outfit would require to be equal with that of the one now preparing to descend the Mackenzie Kiver, and it could scarcely with the utmost exertions be or^anized^o as to start this sum- m^. 13ie present scarcity of provisions in the Hudson's Bay eouDtry predudes the hope of assistance from the Company's southern posts, and it is now too late to provide the means of transport through the interior of supplies from this country, which require to be embarked on boai'd the Hudson's Bay ships by the 2d of June at the latest. ^^ Moreover there is no Company's post on the line oi Back's Eiver nearer than the junction of Slave Biver with Great Slave Lake, and I ao not think that under any droumstandes Sir John Franklin would attempt that route. " In the summer of 1849, if the resources of the party I am to ecmduet remain unimpaired, as I have every reason to believe they will, much of what Capt Beechey sn^este in regpd to ezploiiKg Yictoria l^d may l4 dene by it, and indeed Icmns part of the original scheme. The extent of the examination of any part of the coast in 1848 depends, as I formerly stated, very much- on the seasons of this autumn and next spring, which influ- ence the advance of the boats throiu^h a I^ig course of river navigation. As Governor Simpson will most likely succeed in procuring an Esquim^x to accom- pany m^ party, I nope by his means to obtain such information from parties of that natieen done by the way of search since February, 1848, tends," persists Dr. Sang, " to draw attention closer and closer to the Western land of North Somerset, as the position of Sir John Franklin, and to the Great Fish (or Back) Biver, as the high road to reach it." Dr. King has twice proposed to the Admiralty to proceed on the search by this route. " It would," he states, ^' be the happiest moment of my life (and my deliffht at beins selected from a long list of volunteers, tor the relief of Sir John Boss, was very great) if their lordships would allow me to go by my old route, the Great Fish Biver, to attempt to save human life a sec- ond time on the shores of the Polar Sea. What I did in search of Sir John Boss is the best earnest of what I could do in search of Sir John Franklin." A moetins of those officers and gentlemen most con versaQt with arctic voyages was convened by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty on the 17th of January, 1849, at which the following were present : — Bear-Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, K. C. B., Captain Sir W. E. Parry, R. N., Captain Sir George Back, R liiWNiOfBns AND ttJQGEBTldtfi.^ 3ST N., Captain Sif E. ||icher, B. N., Colonel Sabine, B. A., ana the Rev. Br. Scoresby. A very pretty painting, containing portraits of all the principal arctic voyagers in consultation on these mo- mentous matters, haslieeii made by Mr. Pearse, artist, of 53, Bertiere Street, Oxford Street, which is well worthy of a visit. The beautiful Arctic Panorama of Mr. Burford, in Leicester Square, will also give a' graphic idea of the scenery and appearance of the icy regions; the whole b#tng designed from authentic sketches by Lieut. Browne, now of th€f Besolute, and who was out in the Enterprise in her trip in 1848, and also with Sir James Boss in his antarctic voyage. ^^he exp^lition under Sir James Boss having re* turned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now determined on, and the opinions of the leading officers again taken. Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, in his report to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on J^ovember 24th, 1849, observes : — " There are four ways only in which it is likely that the Erebus and TeiTor would have been lost^ — by fire, by sunken rocks, by storm, or by being crushed be- tween two fields of ice. Both vessels would scarcelj' have taken fire. together ; if one of them had struck on a rock the other would have avoided the dan^ei? Storms in those narrow seas, encumbered with ice, raise no swell, and could produce no such disaster ; and there- fore, by the fourth cause alone could the two vessels have been at once destroyed ; and evei in that case the crews would have escaped upon the ice (as happens every year to the whalers;) they would have saved their loose boats, and reached some part of the American shores. As no traces of any such event have been found on any part of those shores, it may therefore be safely affirmed that one ship At least, and both the crews, are still in existence; and therefore the point where they now are is the great matter for consideration. . ' "Their orders would have carried them toward Mel- ville Island, and then out to the westward, where it ia J s 22|L PAOGBESS OF ABCTIO DISGOYEBT therefore probable that they and entangled amone islands and ice. For should they have been arrested at some intermediate place, for instance, Gape "Walker, or at one of the northern chain of islands, tney would, undoubtedly, in the course of the three following years, have contrived some method of sending notices ot theii position to the shores of North Somerset or to Barrow's Strait. "If they had reaohed much to the southward of Bank's Land, they would sure]jr have communicated with me tribes qn Mackenzie Kiver ; and if, failing to get to the westward or southward, they had returned with the intention of penetrating through Wellington Channel, they would have detached partie% on the ice toward Barrow's Strait, in order to have deposited statements of their intentions. " The general conclusion, therefore, remains, that they are still locked up in the Archipelago to the westward of Melville Island. Now, it is well known that the state of the weather alternates between the opposite sides of Northern America, being mild on the one when rigorous on the other ; and accordingly, during the two last years, which have been unusually severe in iBaffin's Bay, the united States whalers were successfully trav- ersmg the Polar Sea to the northward of Behring's Straits. !jjie same severe weather may possibly prevail on the eastern side during the summer of 1850, and if so, it is obvious that an attempt should be now made by the western openinff, and not merely to receive the two ships, if they shomd be met coming out (as for- merly,) but to advance in the direction of Melville Island, resolutely entering the ice, and employing every possible expedient by sledging parties, by reconnoitering balloons, and by blasting tne ice, to communicate with them. "lliese vessels should be ^intrepidly commanded, effectively manned, and supplied with the best means for traveling acrosd the ice to the English or to the Russian setSements, as it will be of the greatest impcr-^ tance to be infonned of what prog)"^8s the expedition ■v^ OrXNiqNS AND SliMQKSTlOKiA. 220 has made; and £H|thi8 purpose likewise the Plover will be of materiaT service, lying at some advanced point near Icy Gape, and read v to receive intelligence^ and to convey it to Petropanlsld or to Panama. ^' These vessels should enter Behring's Straits before the first of August, anil therefore eyerv effort should bo now made to dispatch them from Enffland before Christmas. They ml^ht water at the Falldand Islands, and a^ain at the Sandwich Islands, where they would be ready to receive a^itional instructions via Panama, by one of the PaclfiPBteamers, and by which vessel they might be pushed on some little distance to the northward. '' It 8eeq[is to me likely that the ships have been push- ing on, summer after summer, in the direction of 6ehr- ing's Straits, and are detained somewhere in the space Bouthwestward of Banks' Land. On the other hand, Bhould they, after the first or second summer, have been unsuccesalul in that direction, they may have attempted to proceed to the northward, either through Wellington .Channel, or through some other of the openings among the same group oi islands. I do not myself attach any superior importance to Wellington Channel as regards the northwest passage, but I understand that Sir John Franklin did, and uiat he strongly expressed to Lord Haddington his intention of attempting that route, if he should fail in effecting the more direct passage to the westw^d. "The ships having beien fully victualed for three years, the resources may, by due precautions, have been extended to four years for the whole crews ; but it has occurred to me, since I had the honor of confer- ring with their lordships, that, if their numbers have been gradually diminished to any considerable extent by death, (a contingency which is but too probable, con- sidering their unparalleled detention in the ice,) the resources would be proportionably extended for the survivors, whom it might, therefore, be found expedient to transfer to one of toe ships, with all the remaining stores, and with that one ship to continue the endeavor 380 PROORBM OF ABOTtO 1>: SltT. to push westward, or to retnm to tHI^ eastward, as ci^ oumstances might render expedient ; in that case, tho necessity for quitting both the ships in the past sum- mer might not improbably hare been obviated. ^ Under these circnmstances, which, it must be admit ted, amount to no more than mSte conjecture, it seems to me expedient still to prosecute^ the search in both directions) namely, by way of Behnnc's Strait (to which I look with the strongest hope,) and also by that of Barrow's Strait. In the latter direction, it ought, I think, to be borne in mind, that tne more than usual difficulties with which Sir James Eoss had to contend, have, in reality, left us with very little more informa- tion than before he left England, and I cannot contem- plate without serious apprehension, leaving that opening without still further search in the ensuing spring, }t\ case the missing crews have fallen back to the eastern coast of North Somerset, where they would naturally look for supplies to be deposited for them, in addition to the chance of finding some of those left by the Fury. For the purpose of farther pursuing the search by way of Barrow's Strait, perhaps two small vessels of 160 or 200 tons might suffice, but they must be square rii:'e;ed for the navigation among the ice. Of com'se the object of such vessels would be nearly that which Sir James Ross's endeavors have failed to accomplish ; and the provisions, and I^^iirv Point m 234 1>B00BKS8 OF- ABCTIO DISCOVERY. s " I am aware that tlio whole cuanccs of life in this )ainfnl case depend on food; but wlien I reflect on ir John Franklin's former extmordinary preservation mulor miseries and trials of the most severe description, living often on scraps of old leather and other refuse, I cannot despair of his finding the means to prolong exist- ence till aia be ha|)pily sent^iim." Dr. Sir John Bichardson on the same day also sends in liis opinion, as requested, on the proposed dispatcit of tlie Enter2:>riso and Investi^||or to Bemins's Strait : " It seems to mo to be very desirable that the western shores of the Archipelago of Parry's Islands should bo searched in a high latitude in the manner proposed by the hydrographer. " If the proposed expedition succeeds in establishing its winter quartere among these islands, parties ,.d2- tached over the ice may travel to the eastward and southeastward, so as to cross the lino of search which it is hoped Mr. Rae has been able to pursue in the present summer, and thus to determine whether any traces of the missing ships exist in localities the most remote from Behring's Strait and Lancaster Sound, and from whence shipwrecked crews would find the greatest diffi- culty in traveling to any place wliere they could hope to find relief. • <^ " The climate of Arctic America improves in a sensi- ble manner with an increase of western longitude. On the Mackenzie, on the 135th meridian, the summer is wanner than in any district of the continent in the same {)arallel, and it is' still finer, and the vegetation more uxuriant on the banks of the Yucon, on the 150th me- ridian. This superiority of climate leads me to infer, that shins well fortified against drift-ice, will find the navigatfon of the Arctic Seas more practicable in its western portion than it has been found to the eastward. This inference is supported by my own personal expe- rience, as far as it goes. I met with no ice in .the month of August, on my late voyage, till I attained the 123d meridian, and which I was led, from tliat circumstance, to suppose coincided with the western limits of Parry'i Arcliiiielasfc ^ OPINIOMS AKD SU00]*:STIOMS. S85 *TIic gix:fttcr facility of navigating from the west has been powerfully advocated by othei-s on former occa- Bions ; and the chief, perhaps tlio only reason why the attempt to penetrate the Polar Sea from that quarter lias not been resumed since the time of Cook is, thai the length of the previous voyage to Behring's Straii would considerably diminish the store of provisions ; but the facilities ot «obtaining supplies in the Pacific are now so au^ncuted, that this objection has no longer the game force." '^' Captain F. W. Beechey, writing from Cheltenham, on the 1st of December, 1849, says ; — " I quite agree with Sir Francis Beaufort in what ho has stated with regard to any casualties which Sir J. Franklin's ships may have snttained, and entirely agree with him and Sir Edward Parry, that the expeaition is probably hampered among the ice somewhere to the Bouthwestward of Melville Island ; but there is yet a possibility which does not appear to have been contem- plated, which is, that of the scurvy having spread among the crew, and incapacitated a large propoiiiion of them from making any exertion toward their release, or that the whole, in a debilitated state, may yet be clinging by their vessels, existing sparingly upon the provision which a large mortality may have spun out, in the hope of relief. '^ In the first case, that of the ships being hampered and the crews in gOod health, I think it certain that, a? the resources of the ships would bo expended in May last. Sir John Franklin and his crew have abandonee the ships, and pushed forward for the nearest ])oinf whore they might reasonably expect assistance, and which they could reasonably reach. "There are consequently three ppints to which it would be proj)er to airect attention, and as the case is urgent, every possible method of relief should bo cner- petically pushed forward at as early a period as possi- ble, ana directed to those points, which, I need scarcely Bay, are Barrow's Strait, Behring's Strait, and the aorthern coast of America. ^ • 15 J* 236 PROGRESS OF ARCTIO DJSOOYERY. ^ " Of the measures which can be resorted to on thi northern coast of America, the officers who have hao experience there, and the Hudson's Bay Company, will be able to judge ; but I am of opinion that nothing should be neglected in that quarter ; for it seems tc mo almost certain that Sir John Franklin and his crew, if able to travel, have abandoned their ships and made for the continent ; and if they ha^e not sycceeded in gaining the Hudson's Bay outposts, they have been overtaken by winter before they could accomplish their purpose. "Lastly as to the opinion which naturally forces itself upon us, as to the utility of the sending relief to per- sons whose means of subsistence will have failed them more than a year by th^ time the relief could re^ch them, I would observe, that a prudent reduction of the allowance may have been timely made to meet an emergency, or great mortality may have enabled the survivors to subsist up to the time required, or it may be that the crews have just missed reaching the points visited by our parties last year before they quitted them, and in the one case may now be subsisting on the sup- plies at Leopold Island, or be housed in eastward of Point Barrow, sustained by depots which have been fallen in with, or by the native supplies ; so that under all the circumstances, I do not consider their condition so utterly hopeless that we should give up the expectation of yet being able to render them a timely assistance. " The endeavors to push forward might be continued ^ntil the 30th of August, at latest, at wich time, if the ships be not near some land where they can conven iently pass a winter, they must direct their course for the inain-land, and seek a secure harbor in which they cottld remain. And on no account should they risk a winter in the pack, in consequence of the tiaes and shallow water lying off the coast. " Should the expedition reach Herschel Island, or any other place of refuge on the coast near the mouth of the Mackenzie or Colvillo Rivers, endeavors should be made to iommunicate ini )rmation of the ships' posi- OPINIONS AND BUGGES'^TONS. 28T tion and summer's proceedings through the Hudson's Bay Company or Russian settlements, and by means of interpreters ; and no opportunity should be omitted of gaining from the natives information of the missing resscls, as well as of any boat expeditions that may have ^one forward, as well as of the party under Dr. Rae. " K nothing should be heard of Sir John Franklin in 1850, parties of ob^rvation should be sent forward in the spring to intercept the route the ship would have pursued, and in other useful directions between winter quarters and Melville Island ; taking especial care that tney return to the ship before the time of liberation of the ships arrives, which greatly depends npon their locality. " Then, on the breaking up of the ice, should any favorable appearance of the ice present itself, the expe- dition might be left free to take advantage of such a prospect, or to return round Point Barrow ; making it imperative, however, either to insure their return, so far as human foresight may be exercised, or the cer- tainty of their reaching Melville Island at the close of that season, and so securing their return to England in 1852. " If, after all, any unforeseen event should detain the ships beyond the period contemplated above, every exertion should be used, by means of boats and in- terpreters, to communicate with the Mackenzie ; and should any casualty render it necessary to abandon the vessels, it should be borne in mind that the reserve-ship will remain at her quarters nntil the autuxnn of 1858, unless she hears of the safetjc of the ships and boats in other directions ; while in the other quarter. Fort Macpherson, at the entrance of the Mackenzie, may be relied upon as an asylum. "The Plover, or reserve-ship, should be provided with three years' provisions for her own crew, and for conting;encies besides. She shoul4 be placed as near as possible to Point Barrow, and provided with inter- preters, and the means of offering rewards for infor- mation; and she should remain at her quarters so long fi88 PE0GBE8B OF ▲RCnO DI8CX>yEBT. as there can be any occasion for her presence in the Arctic Sea8 ; or, if she does not hear any thing of the expedition under Captain Collinson, as long as hei provisions will last." Sir John Bichardsou offers the following advice for this expedition: — "If," he says, "it should winter near the mouth of the Yucan or Colville, that river may be ascended in a boat in the^month of June, he- fore the sea ice begins to give way. The river varies in width from a mile and a half to two miles, and flows through a rich, well-wooded valley, abounding in moose deer, and having a comparatively mild climate. A Kussian trading post has been built on it, at the dis tance of three or four days' voyage from the sea, with the current ; but as the current is strong, from nine to twelve days must be allowed for its ascent, with the tracking line. It would be unsafe to rely upon receiv- ing a supply of provisions at the Eussian post, as it is not likely that any stock beyond what is necessary for their own use is laid up by the traders ; and the moose deer being a very shy animal, is not easily shot by an unpracticed hunter ; but the reindeer abound on the neighboring hills, and are much more approachable. The white-fronted goose also breeds in vast flocks in that district of the country, and may be killed in num- bers, without difficulty, in the month of June. " If the expedition should winter within a reason- able distance of the Mackenzie, Captain Collinson may have it in his power to send dispatches to England by that route. "The river opens in June, and as soon as the ice ceases' to drive, may be ascended in a boat, with a fair wind, under sail, or with a tracking line. " The lowest post at present occupied by the Had- son's Bay Company on this river is Fort Good Hope. The site of this post has been changed several times, but it is at this time on the right bank of the river, in latitude 6&^ 16' N"., and is ten or eleven days' voyage from the sea. At Point Separation, opposite to the luiddle channel of the delta of the river, and on the n I .'*'* OlilNIONS AND SUOGEBTIONS. m i promontory which separates the Peel and the Mac- cenzie, there is a case of pemmican (80 lbs.) buried, ten feet distant from a tree, which has its middle branches lopped off, and is marked on the trunk with' a broad arrow in black paint. A fire was made over the pit in which the case is concealed, and th^ remains of the charcoal will point out the exact apot. This hoard was visited last year by a partji from Fort Macpher- son. Peel's Elver, when all was safe. "Eight bags of pemmican, weighing 90 lbs. each, were deposited at Fort Good Hope in 1848, and would remain there last summer for the use of any boat parties that might ascend the river in 1849 ; but it is probable that part, or the whole, may have been used Dy the Company by next year. "A boat party should be furnished with a small seine and a short herring net, by the use of which a good supply of fish may often be procured in the eddies or sandy bays of the Mackenzie. They should also be provided with a good supply of buck-shot, swan< shot, duck-shot, and gunpowder. The Loucheux and Hare Indians will readily give such provisions as they may happen to have, in exchange for ammunition. Hiey will expect to receive tobacco gratuitously, as they are accustomed to do from the traders. "The Mackenzie is the only water-way by which any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts can be reached from the Arctic Sea. There is a post on the Peel River which enters the delta of the Mackenzie, but no supplies can be procured there. To the east- ward of the Mackenzie no ship-party would have a chance of reaching a trading post, the nearest to the sea being Fort Besolution, on Great Slave Lake, situ- ated on the 61st parallel of latitude, and the interven- ing hilly country, intersected by numerous lakes and rapid rivers, could not be crossed by snch a party ii less than an entire summer, even could they depenu on their guns for a supply ot food. Neither would be advisable for a party from tho ships to attempt to reach the posts on the Mackenzie by way of the Cop- 240 PR0GRKS8 OF ARCmO DISCOVEBT. permine River and Fort Conflderce; afl, in the ab- sence of means of transport across Great Bear Lake, the journey round that Irregular sheet of water, would be iong and hazardous. Sear Lake River is more than fitly miles lon^, and Fort Norman, the nearest post on the Mackenzie, is thirty miles above its mouth. Mr. Rae was instructed to engage an Indian iUmily or two to hunt on the t»ct of country between the Cop- E ermine and Great Bear Lake in the summer of 1850 ; ut no great reliance can be placed on these Indians remaining long there, as they desert their hunting quarters on very slieht alarms, being in continual dread of enemies, real or imaginary. *' A case of pemmican was buriea on the summit ot the bank, about four or five miles from the summit of Cape Bathuist, the spot being marked by a pole planted in the earth, and the exact locality of the deposit by a fire of drifi-wood, much of which woiud remain unconsumed. " Another case was deposited in the cleft of a rock, on a small battlemented cliff, which forms the extreme part of Cape Parry. The case was covered with loose 'Btones; and a pile of stones painted red and white, was erected immediately in fi-ont of it. This cliff re- ^fiembles a cocked-hat in some points of view, and pro- jects like a tongue from the base of a rounded niU, which is 500 or 600 feet hi^h. " Several cases of pemmican were left exposed on a ^ ledge of rocks in latitude 68° 35' N., opposite Lambert Island, in Dolphin and Union Strait, and in a bay to the westward of Cape Krusenstem, a small boat and ten pieces of pemmicau were deposited under a high cliff, above high water mark, without concealment. The Esquimaux on this part of the coast are -not nu- merous, and from the position of this hoard, it may escape discovery by them ; but I have every reason to believe, that the locality has been visited by Mr. Rae in the past summer. A deposit of larger size, near Cape Kendall, has been more certainly visited by Mr. Rae." * Captain Sir J. C. Ross writes from Haslar, 11th of ITebruary, 1860. OPINIONS AND SUGOE8TIONB. 241 " With respect to theprotaWe position of tlie Erebus Rnd Terror, I consider that it is hardly possible they can be anywhere to the eastward of Melville Islana, or within 300 miles of Leopold Island, for if that wcro the case, they would assuredly, during the last spring, have made their way to that point, with the hope of receiving assistance from the whale-ships which, foi several years previous to the departure of that expedi- tion from England, had been in the habit of visiting Prince Eegent Inlet in pursuit of whales ; and in that case they must have been met with, or marks of their encampments have been found by some of the numer- ous parties detached from the Enterprise and Investi- gator along the shores of that vicinity during the only priod of the season in which traveling is practicable in those regions. "It is probable, therefore, that during their first Bummer, which was remarkably favorable tor the navi- gation of those seas, they have been enabled (in obedi- ence to their orders) t the route, let the pioneers, at every spot necessary, leave distinirui^ing mark^ to^ denote the way, and also tp OPINIONS AND BUGGE8TI0N8. S43 give information to either of the other two })rincipa. detachments as may by chance fall into their track To secoiid the efforts of the three detachments, let con Btant succors and other assistance be forwarded by way of Moose Fort, and through *\^ ten men left at Chesterfield Inlet; and should the object for which each an expedition was framed be happily accom- plished by the return of the lost voyagers, let messen- gers be forwarded with the news, as was done with Captain Back, in the case of Captain Koss. Let each of the extreme detachments, upon arriving at their re- spective destinations, and upon being jomed by the whole of their body, proceed to form plans for uniting with the central party, and ascertaining the results already obtained oy each by sending parties in that direction. Also, let a chosen number oe sent out from each detachment as exploring parties, wherever deemed requisite ; and let no effort be wanted to make a search in every direction where there is a possibility of its proving successful. > ^' If a public and more extensive expedition be set on foot, I would most respectfully draw attention to the following suggestions: — ^Leta land expedition be formed upon a similar plan, and with the same number of men, say 300 or more, as those fitted out for sea. Let this expedition be formed into three great divisions ; the one proceeding by the Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake, and following out Captain Back's discoveries ; the second, through the Churchill district; or, with the third, according to the j>lan laid out for a private expe dition alone ; only keeping the whole of their forces as mnch as possible oearing upon the points where success may be most likely attamaole. " Each of these three great divisions to be subdivided* and arranged also as in the former case. The expense of an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary outlay for provisions, &c., I do not think would be more than half what the same would cost if sent by sea ; but of this I am not a competent judge, having no definite means to make a comparison. But there is yet another, r944 PK0ORK8S OF AKOTIO Dl^COVKRT. \ and, I cannot help conceiving, a more easy way of ol> viating all difficulty on this point, and of reducing tlio expense considerably. "It must be evident that the present position of the arctic voyaeers is not very accessible, either by land or sea, else tne distinguished leader at the head of tho expedition would long ere this have tracked a routo whereby the whole party, or at least some of them could return. "In such a case, therefore, the only way to reach them is by, if I may use the expression, ybrcm^ an ex- pedition on toward them ; I mean, by keeping it con- stantly upheld and pushing onward. There may be, and indeed there are, very great difficulties, and diffi- culties of such a nature that, I believe, they would themselves cause another ^eat difficulty in the pr^car- ing of men. But, if I might make another bold sug- gestion, I would respectfmly ask our government at Home, why not employ picked men irom convicted criminals, as is done in exploring expeditions in Aus- tralia } Inducements might be held out to them ; and by proper care they would be made most serviceable auxiliaries. Generally speaking, men convicted of offenses are men possessed of almost inexhaustible mental resources ; and such men are the men who, with physical powers of endurance, are precisely those requirea. But this I speak of, merely, if sufficient free men could not be found, and if economy is studied.'* Mr. John McLean, whp has been twenty-five years a partner and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, and has published an interesting narrative of his adven- tures and experience, writing to Lady Franklin from Canada West, in January, 1860, suggests the following • very excellent plan as likely to produce some intelli- gence, if not to lead to a discovery of the party. " Let a small schooner of some thirty or ^forty tons burden, built with a view to draw as little water as possible, and as strong as wood and iron could make her, be dispatched from England in company with the Hudson's Say ships. This vessel would, immediately OPnnoHS AND BUCKnanoKB. fAft on arriving at York Factory, proceed to the Strait termed Sir Thomas Koe^s Welcome, which divides Southampton Island from the main-land ; then direct her course to Wager Kiver, and proceed onward until interrupted by insurmountable oostacles. The party being safely landed, I would recommend their remain- ing stationar V until winter traveling became practicable, when they snould set out for the shores of the Arctic Sea, which, by a reference to Arrowsmith's map, ap- pears to be only some sixty or seventy miles distant ; then dividing in two parties or divisions, the one would proceed east, the other west ; and I think means could be devised of exploring 250 or 300 miles in either direction ; and here a very important question pre- sents itself, — how and by what means is this enterprise to be accomplished ? > "In the first place, the services of Esquimaux would be indispensable, for the twofold reason, that no reliable information can be obtained from the natives without their aid, and that they alone properly understand the art of preparing sn :>w-nouses, or ' igloes,' for winter en- campment, the only lodging which the desolate wastes of tbe arctic regions afford. Esquimaux understanding the English language sufficiently well to answer our purpose, frequent the Hudson's Bay Company's post m Labrador, some of whom might be induced, (I should &in hope,) to engage for the expedition , or probably the ' half-breed ' natives might do so more readily than the aborigines. They should, if possible, be strong, active men, and g^ood marksmen, and not less than four in number. Failing in the attempt to procure the na* tives of Labrador, then I should think Esquimaux might be obtained at Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; the two who accompanied Sir John in his first land expedi- tion were from this quarter." ^ An expedition of this kind is to be sent out by Lady Franklin this spring under the charge of Mr. Kennedy. There are various ways of accomplishing this object, the choice of which must mainly depend on the viewa and wishes of the officer who may undertake the com V 946 PBOOBVM OF ABCmO DUOOVSRT. \ mand. Besides the northern route, or that by Kec^nt Inlet, it is possible to reach Sir James Eoss and Simp, son's Straits from the south, entering Hudson's Bay, and passing up the Welcome to !^e Isthmus, or again by entering Chesterfield or Wager Inlet, and gaining the coast by Back's or the Great Fish Eiver. By either of these routes a great part of the explora- tion must be made in boats or on foot In every case the main points to be searched are James Boss's Strait and Simpson's Strait, if indeed there be a passage in Uiat direction, as laid down in Sir John Franklin's charts, though contradicted by Mr. Rae, and considered still doubtful by some arctic navigators. The following extract from the Geographical Jour- nal shows the opinion of Franklin upon the search of this quarter. Dr. Richardson says,^— " No better* plan can be proposed than the one suggested by Sir John Franklin, of sending a vessel to Wager Biver, and car- rying on the survey from thence in boats." Sir John Franklin observes, f — " The Doctor alludes in his letter to some propositions which he knew I had made in the vear 1828, at the command of his present Majesty, >[WilliamIY.,) on the same subject, and partic- ularly to th4) suggestion as to proceeding from Bopulse or Wager Bay. * * * A recent careful r'^ading of all the narratives connected with the surveys of the W ager and Bepulse Bays, and of Sir Edward tarry's Voyage, together with the information obtained from the Esqui- maux by Sir Edward Parry, Sir John Boss, and Cap- tain Back, confirm me in opinion that a successful de- lineation of the coast east of Point Turnagain to the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, would be best attained by an expedition proceeding from Wager Bay, the northern parts of wiiich cannot, I think, be farther dis- tant than foi'ty miles from the sea, if the information received by the above-mentioned officers can be de- pended on." Dr. McCormick particularly draws attention to Jones' and Smith's Sounds, recommending a careful examiD 4 • Journal of Geographical Society, vol. vi. p. 40. t Ibid. p. 41 % OPINICNB AKD BUOUEBTIOIfS. it 247 qtioii of these to their probable termination in the Polar Sea : — " Jones' Sound, with the "Wellington Channel on the west, mav be. found to form an island of the land called k North Devon.* All prominent positions on both sides of those Sounds should be searched for flag staves and ])ilc8 of stones, under whcih copper cylinders or bot- tles may have been deposited, containing accounts of the proceedings of the missing expedition ; and if suc- cessful in getting upon its track, a clue would be ob- tained to the fate ot our gallant countrymen." The Wellington Channel he considers affords one of tlio best chances of crossing the track of the missing expedition. To carry out this plan efficiently, he recommended that a boat should be dropped, by the ship conveying the searching party out, at the entrance to the Allelling- ton Channel in Barrow's Strait ; from this point one or both sides of that channel and the northern shores of the Parry Islands might be explored as far west as the season would permit of. But should the ship be en- abled to look into Jones' Sound, on her way to Lancas- ter Sound, and find that opening free from ice, an attempt micht be made by the Boat Expedition to push through it into the Wellington Channel. In the event, however, of its proving to be merely an inlet, which a short delay would be sufficient to decide, the ship might perhaps be in readiness to pick up the boat on its re- tiirfl, for conveyance to its ultimate destination through Lancaster Sound ; or as a precaution against any un- foreseen separation from the ship, a depot of provisions fihonld be left at the entrance to Jones' Sound for the boat to complete its supplies from, after accomplishing the exploration of this inlet, and to afford the means, if compelled from an advanced period of the season or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some place of refuge, either on board a whaler or some one of the depots of provisions on the southern shores of Barrow's Strait • .J-h ■-''. 248 PB0QRE8S OF ABCmO DISCO VEKT. Mr. Penny, in charge of the Lady Franklin, before •ailing, observed : — ^^ If an early passage be obtained, I would examine Tones' Sound, as I have generally found m all my early voyages clear water at the mouth of that sound, and *here is a probability that an earlier passage by this route might be found into Wellington Strait, which out- let ought by all means to be thoroughly examined at the earliest opportunity, since, if Sir J. Franklin had taken that route, with the hope of finding a passage westward, to the north of the Parry and Melville Islands, he may be beyond the power of helping him- self. No trace of the expedition, or practical commu- nication with Wellington Strait, being obtained in this quarter, I would proceed in time to take advantage of the first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound,' with the vie^, of proceeding to the west and entering Wel- lington mrait, or, if this should not be practicable, of proceeding farther westward to Cape Walker, and be- yond, on one or other of which places Sir John Frank- lin will probably have left some notices of his course." The government has seen the urgent necessity of causing the Wellington Channel to be carefully exam- ined ; imperative orders were sent to Sir James Eoss to search it, but he was drifted out of Barrow's Strait against his will, before he received those orders by the North Star. I have already stated that Sir John Franklin's in- structions directed him to try the first favorable opai- ing to the southwest after passing Cape Walker; and failing in that, to try the Wellington Channel. Every officer in the British Service, as a matter of course, follows his instructions, as far as they are compatible with the exigencies of the case, be it what it may, noi ever deviates from them without good and justifiable cause. If, then. Sir John Franklin failed in finding an opening to the southwest of Cape Walker it is reason- able to suppose he obeyed his instructions, and tried the Wellington Channel. The second probability in favor of this locality is, that Sir John Franklin ex \ ■■:■ _» ^ -^ OPINIONS AND 8UGGEBT10NS. 249 « T' vl^ .W preosed o many of his friends a favorable opinion of the Wellington Channel, and, which is of far more consequence, intimated his opinion officially, and be- fore the expedition was determined upon, that this strait seemed to offer the best chance of success. Moreover, Gapt. Fitsjames, his immediate second in command in the Erebus, was strongly in favor of the Wellington Channel, and always so expressed himself See his letter, before quoted, to Sir John Barrow, p. 203. Who can doubt that the opinion of Capt. Fitzjames, a man of superior mind, beloved by all who knew him, and in the service " the observed of all observers," would have great weight with Sir John Franklin, even if Sir John had not been hinttself predisposed to listen to hinl. What adds confirmation to these views is, that in 1840, a few years prior to the starting of the expedition. Col. Sabine published the deeply interesvng " JN'aMOtive of Baron Wrangel's Expedition to the Polai* Sjf under- taken between the years 1820 and 1823," and in his pre- face the translator points to the Wellington Chaimei as the most likely course for the successful accomplishment of the northwest passage. "Setting aside," ho says, "the possibility cf the existence of unknown land, the probaoility of an open sea existing to the north of the Parry islands, and communicating with Behrin^ Strait, appears to rest on strict analogical reasoning." And again he adds, ^ all the attempts to effect the northwest passage, since Barrow's Strait was first passed in 1819, nave consisted in an endeavor to force a vessel by one route or another through this land-locked and ice-encum- bered portion of the Polar Ocean." 1^0 examination has made known what may bo the slate of the sea to the north of the Parry Islands; whether pimilar impediments may there present them- Belves to navigation, or whether a sea may not there exist offering no difficulties whatever of the kind, as M. Von Wrangel has shown to be the case to the north of the Siberian Islands, and as by strict analogy we should be jiictified in expecting. Colonel Sabine is an officer of great scientific expo ^^^r PROGRESS OF ARCrriO DISOOVEKT. rience, and from his having made several polar voyages, he has devoted great attention to all that relates to that miarter. He was in constant communication with Sir j'ohn Franklin when the expedition was fitting out, and it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be some- what guided bv his opinion. "We have, then, the opinions of Franklin himself. Colonel Sabine, and Captain Fit2james, all bearing on this point, and wo must remember that Parry^ who dis- covered and named this channel, saw nothing when passing and re-passing it, but a clear open sea to the northward. Lieut. S. Osbom, in a paper dated the 4th of January, 1850, makes the following suffgesuons : — " General opinion places me lost expedition to the west of Cape W alker, and south of the latitude of ilel- ville Islip. The distance firom Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be seen that nowhere else does the American conti- nent approach so near to the supposed position of Frank- lin's expedition. . v " Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst K. 41° 49', £. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the summer season a portion of this distance may be trav- ersed in boats. "Dr. Richardson confirms previous reports of the ice Iteing light on the coast east of the Mackenzie Biver to 3, first succeed in ascertaining their fate, 10,000Z. In a dispatch from Sir George Simpson to Mr. Kae, dated Lachine, the 2l6t of January, 1860, he says : — "If they be still alive, I feel satisfied that every effort it may be in the power of man to make to succor them will be exerted by yourself and the Company's officers in Mackenzie River ; but should your late search have unfortunately ended in disappointment, it is the desire of the Company that you renew your explorations next summer, if possible. "By the annexed correspondence you will observe that the opinion in England appears to be that our explora- tions ought to be more particularly directed to that por- tion of the Northern Sea lying between Cape Walke on the oast, Melville Island and Banks' Land to the north, and the continental shore or the Victoria Islands to Ihc! south. " As these limits are believed to embrace the coui*se that would have been pursued by Sir John Franklin, Cape Walker being one of the points he was particu* 16 E 252 FE06BBSS OF ABOTIO DISOOVESY. m larly instnicted to make for, you will tliereforo be pleased, immediately on the receipt of this letter, to fit out another exploring party, to proceed in the direction above indicated, but varying the route that may have been followed last summer, which party, besides their own examination of the coast and islands, should be instructed to offer liberal rewards to the Esquimaux to search for some vestiges of the missing expedition, and similar rewards should be offered to the Indians inhab iting near the coast and Peel's River, and the half-bred hunters of Mackenzie River, the latter being, perhaps, more energetic than the former ; assuring them that whoever may procure authentic intelligence Will be largely rewarded. " Simultaneously with the expedition to proceed to* ward Gape Walker, one or two small parties should be dispatchid to the westward of the Mackenzie, in the direction of Point Barrow, one of which might pass over to the Youcon River, and descending that stream to the sea, carry on their explorations in that quarter, while the other, going down the Mackenzie, might trace the coast thence toward the Youcon. And these parties must also be instructed to offer rewards to the natives to prosecute the search in all directions. *^ By these means there is reason to believe that in the course of one year so minute a search may be made of the coast and the islands, that in the event of the expedition having passed in that direction, some trace of their progress would certainly be discovered. " From your experience in arctic discovery, and pe- culiar qualifications for such an undertaking, I am in hopes you may be enabled yourself to assume the command of the party to proceed to the northward ; and, as leaders of the two parties to explore the coast to the westward of the Mackenzie, you will have to select such officers of the Company's service within the district as may appear best qualified for the duty Mr. Murray, I think, would be a very fit man for ono of the leaders, and if one party be sent by way of the Youcon, he might take charge of it. In the event of %♦ OPINIONS AKD SUGa£8TI0JNS. 258 your going on this expedition, you will be pleased to make oy«i' the charge of the district to Chief Trader Bell during your absence. ^^In case you may be short-handed, I have by this coDveyance instructed Chief Factor Ballenden to en- gage in Bed Kiver ten choice men, accustomed to boat* iDg, and well fitted for such a duty as will be required of them ; and if there be a chance of their reaching Mackenzie River, or even Athabasca, before the break- ing up of the ice, to forward them immediately. ^'Snould the season, however, be too liff advanced to enable them to accomplish the journey by winter traveling, Mr. Ballenden is directed to increase the party to fourteen men, with a guide to be dispatched from Red River immediately after the opening of the navigation, in two boats, laden with provisions and flour, and a few bales of clothing, in order to meet, in some degree, the heavy drain that will be occasioned an our resources in provisions and necessary supplies in Mackenzie River. The leader of this party from Red River may, perhaps, be qualified to act as the conductor of one of the parties to examine the coast to the westward." On the 5th of February, 1850, another consultation took place at the Admiralty among those officers most experienced in these matters, and their opinions in writing were solicited. It is important, therefore, to Bubrait these as fully as possible to the consideration of the reader. The first is the report of the hydrographer of the Admiralty, dated the 29th of January, 1850 : — " MemorcmdtJtm hy Rea/r-Adrfwral Si/r Frmicia £eau forty K, a B. "The Behring's Strait expedition being at length 4irly olF, it appears to me to be a duty to submit to ^ their Lordships that no time should now be lost in equipping another set of vessels to reneil' the search on the opposite side, through Baffiji'r Bay ; and this being the fifth year that the Erebus and Terror have AT *^ * 216^ PROQRESS OF ARCTTIO DIBOOVJEEtY. *\* N (I beeiT absent, and probably reduced to only casual s&p- jjlies of food and fuel, it may be assumed *hat this search should be bo complete and effectual as to leave unexamined no place in which, by any of the supposi tions that have been put forward, it is at all likely they may be found. ** Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders with levity, and therefore his first attempt was un- doubtedly made in the direction of Melville Island, and not to the westward. If foiled in that attenipt, he naturally hanted to the southward, and using Banks' Land as a barner against the northern ice, he Would try to make westing under its lee. Thirdly, if both of these roads were found closed against his advance, he perhaps availed himself of one of the four passt between the Parry Islands, including the Wellini Channel. Or, lastly, he may have returned to Bamn's Bay and taken the inviting opening of * Jones' Sound. " All those four tracks must therefore be diligently examined before the search can be called complete, and the only method of rendering that examination prompt and efficient will be through the medium of steam ; while only useless expense and "reiterated dis appointment will attend the best efforts of sailing ves- sels, leaving the lingering survivors of the lost ships., as well as their relatives m England, in equal despair. Had Sir James Boss been in a steam vessel, he would not have been surrounded with ice and swept out of the Strait, but by shooting un^er the protection of Leo- pold Island, he would have waited there till that fatal field had passed to the eastward, and he then would have found a perfectly open sea np to Melville Island. "The best application of steam to ice-going vesselt would be Ericson's screw ; but the screw or paddles of any of our moderate-sized vessels might be made t( %levate with facility. Vessels so fitted would not re- quire to be 4>pUfied in an extraordinary degree, not more than coB^itOli, whalers. From the log-like quies* cence with which 4' sailing vessel must await the crush of two approaching floes, they must be as strong m »■ 0ISSX0N8 ASD SUOOEBTIONt^ Sft6 wood Itud iron can make them ; but the steamer slipi out of the reach of the colliBion, waits till the shock is past, and then profiting by their mutual recoil, darts at once through the transient opening. "• Two such vessels, and each of mem attended by two tenders laden widi c^als and provisions, would he sufficient for the main lines of search. Every promi- nent point of land where notices might have been left, woula be visited, details of their own proceedings would be deposited, and each of thf» ' iders woiQd be left in proper positions, as poir- oi . dezvous on wh < 'i a> tall Dack. ^^ Besides these two branches of the expedition, it would be well to allow the whaling captain (Penny,) to carry out his proposed undertaking. His local knowl- edge, his thorough acquaintance with all the mysteries of the ice navigation, and his well known slull .and resources, seem' to point him out as a most valuable auxiliary. '^ But whatever vessels mav be chosen for this s^r\'ice, I would beseech their lordsnips to expedite them ; all our attempts have been defended too long ; and there is now reason to believe that very early in the season, in May or even in April, Baffin's Bay may be crossed be- fore the accumulated ice of winter spreads over its surface. If they arrive rather too soon, they may very advantageously await the proper moment in some of the Greenland harbors, preparing themselves for the coining efforts and struggles, and procuring Esquimaux interpreters. * " In order to press every resource into the service of this noble entei-prise, the vessels should be extensively fdrnished with means for blasting and splitting the ice, perhaps circular saws might be adapted to the steamers, a launch to each party, with a small rotary engine,^ sledges for the shore, and light boats with sledge bear-' ings for broken ice-fields, balloons for the distribution of advertisements, and kites for the explosion of lofty fire-balls. And, lastly, they should have vigorous and Dume^oUEi Qrew^ so tb^t when detachments are away, 250 PKOOltBlfl OF ABCnO DISOOTBRT. Other operations should not be intermitted for want of physical strength. ** As the council of the Roval Society, some time ago, thought proper to i:emind their lordships of the propriety of instituting this search, it would be tair now to call on that learned body for all the advice and suggestions, that science and philosophy can contribute toward the accomplishment of the great object on which the eyes of all JSn^land and indeed of all the world, are now entirely fixed." Captain Beechey, writing to the Secretary of the Ad- miralty, 7th of February, 1860, says : — " The urgent nature of the case alone can justify the use of ordinary steamers in an icy sea, and great pni- dence and judgment will be required on the part of their commanders, to avoid being disabled by collision and pressure. "I would also add, as an exception, that I thin"k liCo- pold Island and Cape Walker, if possible, should both be examined, prior to any attempt being made to pene- trate in other directions from Barrow's Strait, and that the bottom of Regent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands, should not be lef); unexamined. In the memorandum submitted to their lordships on the 17th of January, 1849, this quarter was considered of importance ; and I am still ot opinion, that, had Sir John Franklin aban- doned his vessels near the coast of America, and much short of the Mackenzie River, he would have preferred the probability of retaining the use of his boats ufitil he found relief in Barrow's Strait, to risking an over- land joumej via the before-mentioned river; it must be remembered, that at the time he sailed. Sir George Back's discovery had rendered it very probable that Boothia was an island. ^ " An objection to the necessity of this search seenis^ to be, that had Sir John Franklin taken that route, he* would have reached Fury Beach already. However, I cannot but think there will yet be found some good ffronnds for the Esquimaux sketch, and that their mean- ing has been misunderstood ; and as Mr. M'Cormick is OPINIONS OF ARCrro ^OTAGEBtf. 257 an eiitci7>Hsing person, whose name has already been before their lorcfships, I would submit, whether a boat expedition from I^opold Depot, under his direction, would not satisfactorily set at rest all inquiry upon this, now the only quarter unprovided for." Captain iSr W. E. Parry states : — "I am decidedly of opinion that the main search Bhoaiu ce renewed in the direction of Melyille Island and Banks' Land, including as a part of the plan the thorough examination of Wellington Strait and of the other similar openings between the islands of the group bearing m^ name. I entertain a Rowing conviction of the probabilitjr of the missing ships, or at least a con- siderable portion of the crews, being shut up at Mel ville Island, Banks' Land, or in tnat neighborhood, agreeing as I do with Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beau- fort, in his report read yesterday to the Board that ' Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders with levity,' which he would be justly chargeable with doing if he attached greater weight to any notions he might personally entertain than to the Admiralty instructions, which he well knew to be founded on the experience of former attempts, and on the best information which could then be obtained on the subject. For these rea- sons I can scarcely doubt that he would employ at least two seasons, those of 1845 and 1846, in an unremitting attempt to penetrate directly westward or southwestwara to Behring's Strait. "Supposing this conjecture to be correct, nothing can be morS likely than that Sir John Franklin's ships, hav- ing penetrated in seasons of ordinary temperature a considerable distance in that direction, nave been locked up by successive seasons of extraordinary rigor, thus baffling the efforts of their weakened crews to escape from the ice in either of the two directidhs by Behring's or Barrow's Straits. " And here I cannot but add, that my own conviction of this probability — for it is only with probabilities that we have to deal — has been gi*eatly strengthened hy a letter I have lately received from Col. Sabine, of KS PBOORB0S OF ASCnO DISCOVEBT. the Boyal Artillery^ of which I had the honor to snb mit a copj to Sir Francis Baring. Colonel Sabino ba' '.:g accompanied two successive expeditions to Bat- fin's Say, inc«udinff that under mv command which reached Melville Island, I consider his views to be well worthy of their lordships' attention on this part of the subject. ^Xt must be admitted, however, tliat considerable weight is dv:^ to the conjecture which has* been offered by persons capable of ^rming a sound judgment, that havmg failed, as I did, in the attempt to penetrate west- ward. Sir John Franklin mi^ht deem it {>rudent to re- trace his (Steps, and was enabled to do so, in order to try a more northern route, either through Wellington Strait or some other of those openings oetween the Parry Islands to which I have already referred. And thisidea receives no small importance from the fact, (said to be beyond a doubt,) of Sir John Franklin having, before his departure, expressed such an intention in case of failing to the westward. " I cannot, therefore, consider the intended search to be complete without making the examination of Wel- lington Strait and its adjacent openings a distinct part of the plan, to be performed by one portion of the vessels which I shaU presently propose for the main . expedition. ^' Much stress has likewise been laid, and I think not altogether without reason, on the propriety of search- ing Jones' and Smith's Sounds in the northwest parts of Baffin's Bay. Considerable interest has lately- been at- tached to Jones' Sound, from the fact of its having been recently navigated by at least one enterprising whaler, and found to be of great width, free from ice, with a 8 veil from the westward, and having no land visible from the mast-head tin that direction. It seems more than iprobable, therefore, that it may be found to communi- . cate with Wellington Strait ; so that if Sir John Frank- lin's ships have been detained anywhere to the north- ward of the Parry Islands, it would be by Jones' Sound Ihat.he would probably endeavor to effect his escape, OFINIOJ^S AlfD BUGGJ^TIOMk. ^9 rather than by the less direct route of Barrow^s Strait. I do not mvself attach much importance to the idea of Sir John Franklin having so far retraced his steps as to come back through Lancaster Sound, and recom- mence his^ enterprise by entering Jones' Sound ; but the possibility ot his attempting his escape through this fine opening, and the report, (though somewhat vague,) of a cairn of stones seen by one of the whalers on a headland within it, seems to me to render it highly expedient to set this que8tii||k at rest by a sear^ in tks direction, including the examination of Smith's Sound ako." I I bee to cite next an extract from the letter of Dr. Sir John Hichardsoi^to the Secretary of the Admiralty : — ^^Hailar Hbapital, Goaport, 7th ofFehruary^ 1860. " With respect to tJie direction in which a successful search may oe predicated with the most confidence, very various opinions have been put forth ; some have supposed either that the ships were lost before reaching Lancaster Sound, or that Sir John Franklin, finding an impassable barrier of ice in the entrance of Lancaster Sound, may have Bought for a passage through Jones' Sound. I do not feel inclined to ^ve much weight to either conjecture. When we consider the stren^ of the Erebus and Terror, calculated to resist the strongest pressure to which ships navigating Baffin's Bav have been known to be subiect, in conjunction with the fact that, of the many whalers which nave been crushed or abandoned since the commencement of the fishery, the crews, or at least the greater part of them, have, in almost every case, succeeded in reaching other ships, or fbe Danish settlements, we cannot believe that the two discovery ships, which were seen on ffee edge of the middle ice so early as the 26th of July, can have been 60 suddenly and totally overwhelmed as to ^preclude some one of the intelligent ofilcers, whose minds were prepared for every emergency, with their select crews of men, experienced in tne ice, from placing a boat on the ico or water, and thus carrying intelligence of the 960 PROOBESS OF ABOnO DISOOYEBY. ;'drBa8ter to one of the many whalers which remained for ^ two months after that date in those seas, and this in the *^iihscnco of any nnusual catastrophe among the fishing * Tcssels that season. ^ " "With respect to Jones' Sonnd, it is admitted hy all who are intimately acquainted with Sir John Franklin^ ' that his first endeavor would be to act up to the letter of his instructions, and that therefore he would not lightly abandon the at^apt to pass Lancaster Sound. ' From the logs of the WWlers year after year, we learn that when once they have succeeded in ronnding 'the middle ice, they enter Lancaster Sound with facility ; had Sir John Franklin, then, gained that Sound, and from the premises we appear to b» ftilly justified in iX)ncluding that he did so, and had he afterward , en- countered a compact field of ice, barring Barrbv^'s Strait and Wellington Sound, he would then, after be- ing convinced that he would lose the season in attempt ing to bore through it, have borne up for Jones' Sound, but not until he had erected a conspicuous landmark, and lodged a memorandum of his rei^non for deviating from his instructions. *'The absence of such a signal-post in Lancaster Sound is an argument against the expedition having tunied back from thence, and is, on the other hand, a strong support to the suspicion that Barrow's Strait was as open in 1846 as when Sir "W. E. Parry first passed it in 1819 ; that, such beine; the case. Sir John Frank- lin, without delay and witnout landing, pushed on to Cape Walker, and that, subsequently, in endeavoring to penetrate to the southwest, he became involved in the drift ice, which, there is reason to believe, urged by the prevaiMng winds and the set of the flood tides, is carried towam Coronation Gulf, through channels more or less intricate. Should he have found no open- ing al^Dape Walker, he would, of course, have sought one ftii#ier to the west ; or, finding the southerly and Westerly opening blocked by ice, he might have tried a northern passage. ^' Jn either case, the plan of search propounded by OPINION! Ayn BUGOESnONS. "•61 6ir Francis JBoaufort aeems to provide against everr contingency, especially when taken in conjunction with Captain Collinson's expedition, via Behring's Strait, and the boat parties from the Mackenzie. ^^ I do not venture to offer an opinion on the strength or equipment of the vessels to be employed, or other merely nautical questions, ftirther than by remarking, that the use of the small vessels, which forms part of ing Icy Gape and Point Barrow, in the Nancy Daweon yacht " And further, with respect to the comparative merits of the paddles and screw in the arctic seas, I beg leave merely to observe, that as long as the screw is immersed in water it will continue to act, irrespective of the tern perature of the air ; but when, as occurs late in the autumn, the atmosphere is suddenly cooled below the freezing point of sea water, by a northerly gale, while the sea itself remains warmer, the paddles will be speedily clogged bv ice accumulating on the floats as tney rise through tne air in every revolution. An in- cident recorded by Sii^ James 0. Koss, furnishes a strik- ing illustration of the powerful action of a cold wind ; I allude to a fish having been thrown up by the spray against the bows of the Terror, and firmly frozen there, during a gale in a high southerly latitude. Moreover, even with the aid of a ready contrivance for topping the paddles, the flatness or hollowness of the si^f^s of a paddle steamer renders her less fit for sustainii'^r , /res- sure ; the machinery is more in the way of oblique beams for strengthening, and she is les8|efficient as a sailing vessel wnen the steam is let oE" ^Memorandum inclosed in J)r, WCoHi^'k^tfilliUer of the lat of January ^IS^O. ^ In the month of April last, I laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty a plan of search for the missing expedition under the conimand of (JaptaiQ 4^f* d^ PliOOEESS OF ARCTIO DISCOVERT. % Sir John Franklin, by means of a boat expedition up Jones' and Smith's Sounds, volunteering myself to conduct it. ^^ In that plan I stated the reascms which had induced mo to direct my attention more especially to the open- ings at the head of Baffin's Bay, which, at the time were not included within the general scheme of search. "Wellington Channel, however, of all th^ probable openings into the Pol^^ea, possesses the wghe^it de- gree of interest, andnP^ exploration of it is of jpch paramount importance, that I should most unq]aei?non ably bave comprised it within my plan of search, had not Her Majesty's ships Enterprise and Investigator been employed at the time in Barrow's Strait for the express purpose of examining this inlet and Cape Walker, two of the most essential points of search in the whole track of the Erebus and Terror to the west- ward ; being those points at the very threshold of his enterprise, from which Sir John iFranklin would take his departure fi*om the known to the unknown, whether he shaped a southwesterly course from the latter, or attempted the pas6a(i;e in a highei latitude firom the former point. " The return of the sea expedition from Port Leo- pold, and the overland one from the Mackenzie Eiver, both alike unsuccessful in their search, leaves the fate of the gallant Franklin and his companions as proble- matical as ever; in fact,' the case stands precisely as it did two years ago ; the work is yet to beoegun ; every thing remains to be accomplished. " In renewal of the search in the ensuing spring, more would be accomplished in boats than in any o*hei way, not onli by Behring's Strait, but from the east- ward. For the difficulties attendant on icy navigation which Jj^rm so itiinperable a barrier to the progress of 8hip9^Phil^:^e reaaily surmounted by boats ; by means of which the coast line maybe closely examined for oairns of stones, under which Sir John Franklin would most indubitably deposit memorials of his progress ^P all prominent positions, as opportunities might offer. 4. mJFmionB Aii^ sugobstionb. # * ''The disc(wery of one of these mementlis would, In ai probability, anord a clue that might lead to the res- cue of our enterprising countrymen, ere another and sixth winter close in upon them, should they be still in existence ; and the time has not yet arrived for aban- doning hope. ''In renewing once more the ofOsr of my services, which I d most cheerfully, I see no reason for chang- ing the opinions I entertainedyAst spring ; subsequent eiglts have only tended to ^inrm them. I then be- lilKd, and I do so still, after a long and mature con- sideration of the subject, that Sir John Franklin's ships have been arrested in a high latitude, and beset in the he&Yy polar ice northward of l^e Parry Islands, and tl^at their probable course thither has been through the WelQiigton Channel, or one of the sounds at the north- orii #f tremity of Baffin's Bay. %^s appeal's to me to be the only view of the case tiiaf can in any w&y account for the entire absence of all tidings of them throughout so protracted a period of time Unless all have perished by some sudden and overwhelming catastrophe.) "Isolated as their position would be under such cumstances, any attempt to reach the continent America at such a distance would be hopeless ^ in extreme : and thB mere chance of any party from ships reaching the top of Baffin's Bay at the very ment of a whaler's brief and uncertain visit wo ~ attended with by far too great a risk to iustify tempt, for failure would insure inevitable desmction to the whole party; therefore their only alternative "Would be to keep together in their ships, snoula no dis- aster have happened to them, and by ntlsban^g their remaining resources, eke them out with whatever wild animals may cdme within their reach, i? ^ ^^ r> " Had Sir John FranWin Ijfeenable to rfiape Wbuth- westerly course from Cape "Walker, as directed by his instructions, the probability is, some Intelligeiice of him would have reached tlik country ere this, (nearly five years having already elapsed i^nce his departure cir e e m PROORESS OF iBOriO DI800VERY. \ from it.) "Parties would have been sent out from his ships, either in the direction of the coast of America or Barrow's Strait, whichever happened to be the nio8% J accesisible. Esquimaux would have been fallen in ' with, and tidings of the long-absent expedition have kbeen obtained. ' "Failing in penetrating beyond Cape Walker, Sir John FraiS^lin would have left some notice of his fu- ture intentions on th | | L8 T>ot, or the nearesi accessible one to it ; and shoulm to fall back upon in the search from that quarter. J. ^ (Signed,) R. M'Gobhick, R. N. ^^^iokenham, lat of January j 1850." iqf a Plan of an Overland Journey to the r 8ea^ hy the Way of the^ Coppermine River ^ Search of Sir John FranldvrCa Expedititm^ augr geated in 1847. " If Sir John Franklin, guided by his instructions, has passed through Barrow's Strait, and shaped a south- westerly course, from the meridian of Cape "Walker, with the intention of gaining the northern coast of the .continent of America, and so passing through the Dol- phin and Union Strait, along the shore of that conti- nent, to Behring's Strait; .. ^' His greatest risk of detention by the ice through- out this coursQ would be found between the parallels of 74? and 69° north latitude, and the meridians ©f 100° and 110° west longitude, or, in other words, that por- tion of the northwest passage which yet remains unex- plored,- occupying the space between the western coast of Boothia on the one side, and the island or islands forming Banks' and Victoria ]p5:id6 on the other. " Should the Erebus aa^^T^ror have been beset in the heavy drift-ice, or wreicked among it and the bro- ken landj^hich in all probability exists there while contending with the prevalent westerly winds in this quarter; . , ,■*. PBOOitUSS OF AROTIO ZHBCOYEBY. -^ j», "The Clopperinine Kiver would decidedly offei^the tiinost direct route and nearest approach to that portion 5f the Polar Sea, and, after crossine Coronation Oidik ;> the average breadth of the StrfUt oetween the Conip' I nent and Victoria Land is only about twenty-two miles/ ''From this point a careful search should be coi# menced in the airection of Banks' Land ; the interveD-t ing space between it and Victoria Land, occupying ^4ibout five degrees, <^ttle more than 300 miles, could, I^^I think, bcaccompliflld in onJB season, and a i^jj^i ^winter quarters effected before the winter set 4P As tto ^. the ice m the Coppermine River breaks up in June, the searching party ought to reach the sea by the be- ginning of August, which would leave two ol tfcie best months of the year for exploring the Polar " August and September. " As it would be highly desirable that everyj day, to the latest period of the season, shoi " voted to the search, I should propose winterifi|^ coast in the vidnity of the moutn of the Coppermine River, which would also afford a favorable position from which to recommence the search in the following spring, should th^ first season prove unsuccessful. ^^ Of course the object of such an expedition as I have proposed is not with the view of taking supplies to sucb a numerous party as Sir John Pranklin has under his command ; but to find out his position, and acquaint him where a depot of provisicms would be stored up for himself and crews at my proposed winter quarters^^^ where a party should be left to build a house, establish a fishery, and hunt for game, during the absence ofthe searching party. " To carry out this plan efficiently, the Hudson's Bay 'Company should be requested to lend their powerful cooperation in furnishing guides, supplies pf pemmican, «&c., for the party on t&r route ana at winter quarters. Without entering into det&il§ here, I may observe, that I should consider one boat^ combining the necessary requisites in her construction to fit her for' either the (iver navig^on, or that oi tk% ^^ores of the Polar Sea, ■"^^..s^ OPINIONS AND 6UGonnnoN3. mi would be quite sufficient, with a crew one half sailors, and the other half Canadian boatmen ; the latter to be engaged at Montreal, for which place I would propwe leaving England in the month of February. ^' Should such an expedition even &il in its main ob< ject — the discovery ot the position of the missing ships and their crews, i& longnsought-for polar passage may be accomplished. (Signed,) R. M'Cowock, R. N. « Woohoieh, 1847." Copy of a Letter from Zieutenant Shera/rd Oehorn to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. . " Ealing, Middlesex, ^h January, 1850. ^Tjjtt Lords, — A second attempt to reach Sir John Franklin's expedition being about to be tried during the pifesent year, I take the liberty of calling your at- tention to the inclosed proposition for anx>verrand party to be dispatched to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a yiew to their traversing the short distance between Cape Bathurst and Banks' Land. My reasons for thus tres- passing on your attention are as follows ; " Ist. General opinion places the lost eirpedition to the west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of Melville Island. " The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be Been that nowhere else does the Andean continent approach so near to the supposed posim>n of Franklin's expedition. ^' 2d. As a starting point. Cape Bathurst offers great advantages ; the arrival of a party sent there from England may be calculated upon to a day ; whereas the arrival of Captain Collirison in the longitude of Cape Barrow, or tnat of an eastern expedition in Lan- caster Sound, will depend upon many uncontrollable contingencies. The distance to be performed is com- Earatively little, and the certainty ot being able to fall ack upon supplies offers great advantages. Captain - 17 , ... m 908 PBOGREBS 01 ARCmO DQGOTERY. 5*-- Collinson will have 080 miles of longitude to travene between Cape Barrow and Banks' Lanose of retracing his steps, would doubtless have been eft by him ; ana should he subsequently have found an opening to the north, presenting a favorable appear- ance, there aliso, should circumstances have pernrtted, lirould a memonal have been left. '^ lie may, however, have found a more favorable state of things at the southwest end of Melville Island than we did, and may have been led thereby to at- tempt to force a passage for his ships in the dire^ \m of Behring's Strait, or perhaps, in the first instance, to the south of that direction, namely, to Banks' Land In such case two contingencies present themselves' first, that in the season of navigation of 1847 he may have made so much progress, that in 1848 he may have preferred the endeavor to push through to Behring's Strait, or to some western part of the continent, to an attempt to return by the way of Barrow's Strait; the mission of the Plover, the Enterprise, and the'Inves- tigatc»r together with Dr. Eae's expedition, supply, 1 presume, \ lor I am but partially acquai A with their m8tructions,ythe moit judicious means of affording re- lief in this dir^tion. There is, however, a second con- tingency ; anMt is the one which the impression left on my mind by the nature and general aspect of the ice in the twelve months which we ourselves passed at the southwest end of Melville Island, compels me, in spite of my wishes, to regard as the more probable, viz., that his advance from Melville Island in the sea- son of 1847 may have been limited to a. distance of fifty, or perhaps one hundred iA|iles at farthest, and that in 1848 he may have endeilliFed to retrace his steps, but only with partial success. "It is, I apprehend, quite a conceivable case, that under these circumstances. ^^. OPlHION» AND lUGOlOBIiOlia. 271 ioeapable of extricatiug the Bhipt from the ice, thm crewd may have been) at length, obliged to qnit them, aud attempt a retreat, not toward the continent, because too distant, but to Holyille Island, where certainly food, and gpobably fuel (seals,) might be obtained, and where they would naturally suppose that vessels dis- patched from England for their relief would, in the tirst instance, seek them. It is quite conceivable also, I apprehend, that the circumstances might be silch that their, retreat may have been made without their boats, and probably in the April or May of 1849. :» ^^ Where the Esquimaux have lived, there Englishmen may live, and no valid argument against the attempt to relieve can, I think, be founded on the improbability of finding Englishmen alive in 1850, who may have made a retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ; nor would the view of the case be altered in any ma- terial degree, if we suppose their retreat to have been made in 1848 or 1849 to Banks^ Land, which may afford facilities of food and fuel equal or superior to Melville Island, and a further retreat in the following year to the latter island as the point at which they would more probably look out for succor. ■^ Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts made in other directions, I retain my original opinion, which seems also to iiave been the opinion of the Board of Admiralty, by which Boss's instructions were drawn up, that the most proniising direction for re- search would be taken by a vessel which should follow them to the southwest point of Melvilla#Bland, be pre- pared to winter there, and, if necessary, to send a party across the ice in April or May to examine Banks' Land, a distance (there and back| less than recently accomplished by Boss in his land journey. '4 learn from Boss's dispatchos, that almost imme- diately after he got out of rort Leopold (1849,) he was entangled in apparently interminable fields and floes of ice, with which, in the course of the summer, he was drifted down through Barrow's Strait and Baffin's •^ay neai:ly to Davis' Strait. Jt ,ija reasonable \o pre- *€► f^j 27S FR0OBB9S OF ABOTIO DIBOOyXBT. Bttme, therefore, that the localities fron whence thii ice drifted are likely to be less encumbered than usual by accumulated ice in 1860. It is. of course, of the highest importance to reach Barrow^s Strait at the ear- liest possible period of the season ; and, con^toted with this point I learn from Captain Bird, whom I had the pleasure of seeing here a lew days ago, a very remark- able fact, that the ice which prevented their crossing Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73*» of latitude (as we did in 1819, arriving in Barrow's Strait a month earlier than we had done the preceding year, when we went round by Melville Bay, and nearly a month earlier than Boss did last year) was young ice, which had formed in the remarkably calm summer of last year, and which the absence of wind prevented their forcing a passage through, on the one hand, while on the other, the ice was not heavy enough for ice anchors. It was, he said, not more than two or two and a half feet thick, and ob- viously of very recent formation. There must, there- fore, liave been an earlier period of the season when this part of the sea must have been free from ice ; and this comes in confirmation of a circumstance of which I was informed by Mr. Petersen (a Danish gentleman sent to England some months ago by the Northern So- ciety of Antiquaries of Copenhagen, to make extracts irom books and manuscripts in the British Musenm,) that the Northmen, who nad settlements some centa- ries ago on the west coast of Greenland; were in the habit of crossing Baffin's Bay in the latitude of Uper- navic in the aprntg of the year, for the purpose of fish- ing in Barrow's Strait, from whence they returned in August ; and that in the early months they generally found the passage across free from ice. " In the preceding remarks, I have left one contin- gency unconsidered ; it is that which would have fol- lowed in pursuance of his instructions, if Fnmklin should have found the aspect of the ice too unfavorable to the west and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a passage through it, and should have retraced his steps ;n hopes of finding a more open sea to the northward, M OPINIONS AND BOOOBSTIONI. «*1 278 wither in WelHIlK^on Strait or elsewhere. It is quite conceivable that here also the expeditioa may hu^e en- countered, at no very g^at distance, insuperable diffi- culties to their advance, and may have failed in accom- plishing a retom with their ships. In this case, the retreat of the crews, supposing it to have been made acro88 land or ice, would most probably b^ directed to 6ome part of the coast on the route to Melville Island, on which route they would, without doubt, expect that succor would be attempted." * Mr. Robert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. H. D. C >od- fiir, the assistant-surgeon of Sir John Franklin's- ship, the Erebus, left Stromness, as surgeon of the Advice, whaler, Capt. Penny, on the 17th of March, 1849, in the hopes of gaining some tidings of his brother ; but returned unsuccessful after an eight months' voyage. Ho has, however, published a very interesting little narrative of the icy regions and of his Urctic voyage. In a letter to Lady Franklin, dated Edinburgh, 18th of January, 1860, he says : — ^** I trust you are not allow- ing yourself to become over-anxious. I know that, altnongh there is much cause to bo so, there is still not the slightest reason that we should despair. It may be presumptuous in me to say so, but I have never ior a moment doubted as to their ultimate safe return, having always had a sort of presentiment that I would meet my brother and his companions somewhere in the regions in which their adventures are taking place. This nope I have not yet given up, and I trust tnat by next sum- mer it may be fulfilled, when an end will be put to the suspense which has lasted so long, and which must have tried you so much." The arctic regions, far from being so destitute of ani- mal life as might be supposed from fhe bleak and inhos- pitable character of the climate, are proverbial for the boundless profusion of various species of the animal kingdom, which are to be met with in different locali- ties during a great part of the year. The air is often dark<=ined by innumerable flocks of arctic and blue gulls, {Lestris Parasiticus, and Zarus 274 PBOOKISS OF ABCl'IO DWOOYKRY, glauc^ia^ the ivory ffnll or gnow>bird, (L^^t efmrnei^x ' the kittiwake, the fulmar or petrel, snow ffeeso, tern:, coons, dovekies, &g. The cetaceous animals compriBo the great Greenland whale. {Balana mytHoetus^) the sea unicorn or narwhal, (Manodon iMnuHkroa^) the white whale or beluga, {Del^hinua leuoos,) the morse or walrus, {T^oheova roamarus,^ and the seal. There are also plenty of porpoises occasionally to be met with, and although these animals may not be the best of food, yet they can be eaten. Of the land animals I may in- stance the polar bear, tho musk-ox, the reindeer, the arctic fox and wolves. Parry obtained nearly 40001b8. weight of animal food during his winter resiaenoe at Melville Island ; Kosb nearly the same quantity from birds alone when wiuter- inff at Port Leopold. \ In 1719, the crews of two Hudson's Bay vessels, the Albany and Diftovery, a ship and sloop, under the command of Mr. Barlow and Mr. Knight, were cast ou shore on. Marble Island, and it was subse<]^uently ascer- tained that some of the party supported life for nearly three years. Mr. Heame learned the particulars from some of the Esquimaux an 1729. The ship it appeared went on shore in the fall of 1719 ; the party being then in number about fifty, began to build their- house for the winter. As soon as the ice permitted in the follow- ing summer the Esquimaux paid them another visit, and foimd the number of sailors much reduced, and very unhealthy. Sickness and 'famine occasioned such havoc among them that by the setting in of the second winter, their number was reduced to twenty. Some of the Esqui- maux took up their abode at this period on the opposite side of the harbor, and supplied them with what provis- ions they could spare in the shape of blubber, seal's flesh, and train oil. ^ The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the spring, and on revisiting the Island in the summer of 1y21, only five of the crews were found alive, and these were so ravenous for food, that they devoured the blub- « ABUXIUKOS OF AlflMAL FOOD MIT WITII. 97i i)er and tears flmh raw, as they purchased it of th« Dtttives, which proved so injnrions in their weak state, that three of them died in a few days. The two snr* vivoFfl, though very weak, mana^^ed to biiry their cont-* rades, and protracted their existence for some days longer. '^They fivqnently,** in ^e words of the narrative, ^went to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly' looked to the south and east, as if in expectation of som« vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there a considerob^ time, and nothing appearing in sight, they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At length ono of the two died, and the other's strength was Bo far exhausted, that he fell down and died also in attempting to dig a grave for his companion. The skulls and other large Done» of these two men are now lying above ground close to the house." • Sir John Bichardson, speaking of the amount of food to be obtained in the }>olar region, says, *^Deer mi^te over the ice in the spring from the main shore to v ic- toria and WoUaston Lands in large herds, and return in the autumn. These lands are also the breeding places of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that with ordinary skill in hunting, a large supply of food might be pro- cured on their shores. In the months of June, July, and August. Seals are also numerous in those seas, and are easily shot, their curiublty rendering them a ready prey to a boat party." In these ways and by fishing, the stock of provisions might be greatly augmented — and we have the recent examjue of Mr. Bae, who passed a severe winter on the very barrel shores of Bepulse Bay, with no other Aiel than the withered tufts of a herbaceous andromada, and maintained a numer- ous party on the spoils of the chase alone for a whole year. Such instances, forbid us to lose hope. Should Sir John Franklin's provisions become so fer inade- quate to a winter's consumption, it is not likely that h« would remain longer by his ships, but rather that in? one body, or in several, the oflBcers and crews, with boats (^down so as to be light enough to drag over m PROGSESS OF AJKOTIC DISC4 VEST. vi. &e ice, or built expressly for that purpose, would en* deavor to make their waj eastward to Lancaster Sound, or southward to Uie mainland, according to the longi- tude in which the ships were arrested. ' We ought not to judge of the supplies of food that can be procured in the arctic regions by diligent hunt- ing, from the quantities that have been actually ob- tained on the several expeditions that .have returned, and consequently of the means of preserrinff life there. When there was abundance in the ships, uie address and energy of the hunting parties was not likely to be called forth, as they would inevitably be when the exis- tence of the crews depended solely on their personal efforts, and formed their chief or only object in their march toward quarters where relief might bo looked for. This remark has reference t» the supposition that on the failure of the stock of provisions in the ships, the crews would, in separate parties under their officers, seek for succor in several directions. With an empty stomach, the power of resisting exter- nal cold is greauy impaired ; but when the process of digesting is going on vigorously, even with compara- tively scanty clothing, the heat ot t^^e body is preserved. There is in the winter time, in high latitudes, a craving for fat or oleaginous food, and mr such occasions the flesh of seals, walruses, or bears, forms a useful article of diet. Oaptain Cook says that the walrus is a sweet and wholesome article of food. Whales and seals would also furnish light and fuel. Hie necessity for increased food in very cold weather, is not so great when the people do not work. Mr. Gilpin, in his narrative in the Nautical Maga- zine for March, 1860, writes thus : — "About the 20th of June a small water bird, called the doveky, had become so numerous, and so many were daily shot by those who troubled themselves to go after them, that shooting parties from each ship, con- sisting of an officer and marine, were established a< Whaler Point, where they remained the whole 'week, returning on board on Saturday night. In a ireek ot # #- ▲mrSDASOK OF ANIMAL FOOD MET WITH. m BO after thi^lilre ooon, a mnch hearier biid, became more plentiful than the little dovekj, and from this time to the middle of Angast, so successful and nn- tiring were our sportsmen, that the crew received each a bird per man a day. " The account kept on board the Inyestigator showed the number of birds killed to have amounted to about 4000, and yielding near 2600lb8. of meat. But more than this was obtained, as many were shot by indi- viduals for amusement, and not always noted." Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 1849, speaking of landing on one of the WoUaston Islands, on the west side of Navy Board Inlet, says he disturbed about half a dozen pairs of eider-duck {Somateria moUissima.) Their e^^s he found to be within a few hours of maturity. Inere were, besides, numerous nests, the occupants of which had probably winged their way southward. Two brent goe8e,(-4/war bemicla) and a single pair of arctic terns, (Sterna arctica,) were most vociferous and courageous in defence of their downy offspring wherever he approached. These were the only birds he saw, with the exception of a solitary raven, {Corvus corax,) not very liigh over- head, whose sharp and yet musically bell-like croak came startling upon the ear. Mr. Snow, in his accourt of the voyage of the Prince Albert, p. 162, savs, (^speaking of Melville Bay, at the northen head of !oattiu^s Bay,) ^^ Innumerable quanti- ties of birds, especially the little auk, ( J.^j aUe,) and the doveky, {Colymbtcs grylle,) were now seen, (Au- gust 6th,) in every direction. They were to be ob- served in thousands, on the wing and in the water, and often on pieces of ice, where they were clustered together so thick that scores miglit have been shot at a time by two or three fowling pieces." In passing up Lancaster Sound a fortnight later sev- eral shoal of eider-ducks and large quantities of other birds were also seen. *"¥v ..-.^«««-***. Ci'^^"**— i«{y* iK-^inJt».**.»iJM^ Jkki«.>v «>J«t.4 # 4f8 ^fl c fi.-rff IMM^ ^»*''i ''It ■(^Jr^V^I A BALLAD OF SIB JOHN PRANK^^ * *^ « The Ice «M here, the ie« WM then, llie ico was aJl around." -~ CouuBOMk WniTHBB Bail Tou, Sir Jobn Franlclin t Cried a whaW in Baffin's Bay ; To know if between the land and t'^e Ms, ^^ I may find a broad sea-way. I charge jou back, Sir John franklin. As you' would lire and tihme^ Tor between the land and the ffoaea Pola No man inay sail alive. But lightly laughed the stout Sir John, And spoke unto his men : — Half England is wron^, if he is right ; Bear off to westward thi«n. O, whither sail you, brave Englishman ? Oried the little Esquimaux. Between your land and the polar star My goodly vessels go. Cbme down, if you would journey ther^, The little Indian said ; And change your doth for fur clothing, Your vessel for a sled. But li^tly laughed the stout Sir John, And the crew laughed with him toe ; A sailor to change m>m ship to sled, I ween, wore something now 1 All through the long, long polar day, The vessels westward sped ; And wherever the sail of Sir John was blowi^ The ico gave way and fled. * Gave way with many a hollow groan, And with^any a surly roar ; But it murmured .%nd threatened on every sidt And closed where he sailed before. Ho I see ye not my merry man. The broad and open sea ? Bethink ye what the whaler said, Bethink ye of the little Indian's sled t The crew laughed out in glee. Bir John, Sir John, 't is bitter cold. The scud drives on the breeze, ^Tb« ice comes looming from the north, The very sunbeams freeze. Bright summer goee, dark winter comes— We cannot rule the year; But long ore aummer's suu goes down, On yonder sea we'll saiK. ■Mr fcri* .»s\m ^ ▲ BALLAD OF tlK JOHN FBANKUK. TLe drippiBf ioebeig* dipped aad roM^ And floundered dowu the gmle ; TJm •bips were staid, the yards wore maniMd^ And furled the useless sail The summer 's gone, the winter 's come. We sail not 4m yonder sea ; Why sail we no^ Sir John Franklin f — A silent man was he. The winter goes, the summer comes^ We cannot rule the year ; I ween, we cannot rule the waya^ Sir Jdin, wherein we 'd steer. The cruel ice came floating on, And elosed beneath the lee. Till the thickening waters dashed no moN^ 'T was ice around, behind, before — My God I there is no sea t What think you of the whaler now ! What of the Esquimaux ? A sled Were better than a ship. To cruise ^ough ice and snow. Down sank the baleful crimson sun ; The northern-lip;ht came out, And glared upon the ice-bound ships^ And shook its speai-s about The snow came down, storm breeding And bn the decks was laid ; Till the weary sailor, sick at heart. Sank down beside his spade. Sir o completely worn out by fatigue, that every man was, from some cause or other, in tie doctor's hands for two or three weeks. During their absence, Mr. Matthias, the assistant-surgeon mait» raOOKKSS OP ARCnO DISCOVERT. *^^X ■''4 of the Enterprise, had died of cousumption. Several of the crews ot both ships were in a declining state, m\\ the general report of health was by no means cheering. Wliile Captain Rose was away, Commander Bird bad dispatched other surveying parties in different '•- rections. One, under the command of Lieutenant Bar nard, to the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, crossiii » the ice to Cape Hind ; a second, commanded by Lieu- tenant Browne, to the eastern shore of Regent Inlet; and a third party of six men, conducted by Lieutenant Robinson, along the western sb re of the Inlet. The latter officer extended his exan ination of the icoast as far as Cresswell Bay, several miles to the southward of Fury Beach. He found the house still standing in which Sir John Ross passed the winters of 1832-33, together with a qunntity of the stores and provisions of the Fury, lost there m 1827. On opening some of the packages containing flour, sugar and peas, they were nil Ibund to be in excellent preservation, and tlie preserved soup as good as when manufactured. The labors of these searching parties were, however, of comparatively short duration, as they all suffered from snow-blindness, j^prained ankles, and debility. As ii v;a . nowlmt too evident, from no traces of the absent expedition having been met with by any of these pai-ties, that the ships could not have been de- tained anywhere in this part of the arctic regions, Captain Ross considered it most desirable to push for- ward to the westward as soon as his ships should be lib- erated. His chief hopes now centered in the efforts of Sir John Richardson's party; but he felt persuaded that S:? John Franklin'b ships must have penetrated BO far beyond Melville Island as to induce him to prefer making for the continent of America rather than seek- ing assistance from the whale ships in Baffin's Bay. The crews, weakened by incessant exertion, were now in a very unfit state to undertake, the heavy labor which they had yet to accomplish, but all hands that wer« able were set to work with saws to cut a channel toward the point of the harbor, a distance of lather ?0TAOK 09 KNTE]U*KI8E AND INVESTIOATOB. S87 more than two miles, and on the 28tk of Angnst the ships got clear. Before quitting the port, a house was built of the spare spars of both snips, and covered with Buch of the housing cloths as coula be dispensed with. Twelve months' provisions, fuel, and other necessaries were also left behind, together with the steam launch belonging to the Investigator, which, having be^n pur- posely lenffthened seven feet, now formed a fine vessel, capable ofconvevinff the whole of Sir John Franklin's pai'ty to the whale shipa, if necessary. The Investigator and Enterprise now oceeded toward the northern shore of Barrow's P lit, for the purpose of examining "Wellington Channel, '^ , if pos- sible, penetrating as far as Melville Islan t when about twelve mucs from the shore, the ships ca.ae to tbc fixed land-ice, and found it impossible to proceed. On the 1st of September a strong wind suddenly arising, brought the loose pack, through which they had been struggling, down upon the ships, which were closely beset. At times, during two or three days, they sustained severe pressure, and ridges of hum- mocks were thrown up all around ; but after that tiihe the temperature falling to near zero, it formed the whole body of ice into one solid mass. The remainder of the narrative, as related by the Commander of the expedition in his official dispatch, will not bear abridgment. '^ We were so circumstanced that for some days we could not unship the rudder, and when, by the labori- ous operation ox sawing and removing the hummocks from under the 8tem, we were able to do bo, we found it twisted and damaged ; and the ship was so much strained, as to increase the leakage from three inches in a fortnight to fourteen inches daily. The ice was stationary for a few days ; the pressure had i|p folded the lighter pieces over each omer and they were so interlaced, as to form one entire sheet, extending froni shore to shore of Barrow's Strait, and as far to the east and west as the eye could discern from the mast-head, while the extreme severity of the temperature had (^■Xj'ti'iSi iV ' »-itw«* ->. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 yaiZS |2.5 ^ 1^ 12.2 IM 2.0 1.8 1125 iU 11.6 V] W 7 »> '> 7 z!^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4^ ■^ M8 »< V FMOGSESS OF AMCmO D^^OOVEItr« c«inented the whole bo firmly toaether that it a^ppeared highly improbable that it conla break «i> agam this season. In tha space which had been cleared away for unshipping the mdder, the newly-formed ice was fifteen inches thick, and in some places along the ship's aide the thirteen4eet sorewa were too short to work. We had now fully made up our mihds that the ships were fixed f< > **It is impossible^'* says Captain Ross, in his eon duding observatioDS, ^to convey any idea of the sen sationwe experienecfi when we l»und ourselves oncf moi^ at liberty, while many a grateful heart poured :fi»fth its praiass and thanksgiviagt to AJiu^ty God for this ur .looked for deliverance.'" TOYAax oy jaTExnuaM axd urvivno^To^. S89 *^Tbe sdr^noe of winter had now okeed all the har- bors a^nst us ; and at it was impowible to pen«fU*ato to the westward through the pack from which we had just been liberated, I made the sijraal to the Investi- gator (xf my intention to return to England." After a &vorable passa^, the ships arrived home earl J in November, Oaptam Bit J. C. Boss, reporting himsdf at>he Admiralty on the 5th of Kovember. As Uiis is the last arctic voyage oiSir James G. Boss, it is a fitting place for some reeord of his arduous tervicee. Captain Sir James Clarke Ross entered the navy in 1812, and served as volunteer of the first class, mid- shipman and mate until 1817, with his nnde Com- mander Boss. In 1818 he was appointed Admiiftlty midshipman in the Isabella, on Commander Boss's first voyage of discovery to the arctic seas. He was then midshipman in the two following years with Captain Parry, in the HecUi ; followed him again in the Fury in his second Toyage, and was promoted on the 26th of December, 1822. In 1824 and 1825, he was lieu- tenant in the Fury, under Captain Hoppner, on Parry's third voyage. In 4827, he was appointed first lieuten- ant of the Heola, under Parry, ana accompanied him in command of the second boat in his attempt to reach the North Pole. On his return he received liis j»romo- tibn to the xank of commander, the 8th of November, 1827. From 1829 to 1833, he was employed with his sude as second in command in the Victory on tiie pri- vate expedition sent out by Mr. Felix Booth. Dunng this period hb Tilmted, on the 1st of June, 1881, Uie British fl^g on tiie North Magnetic Pole. For this, on his I'etnm, he was presented by the Herald's College with an addition to nis faipily arms of ftn esuecial crest, representing a flag-staff erect on a i-ock, with the union jack h(Hsted thereon, inscribed with <^ date, ^1 June, 1831." On the 28d of October, 183i, he was promoted to the rank o^ Qaptaiot and in the following year em* ployed in making magnetic observations, preparatory to the gene^"^! magnetic survey of England. In tM 290 •? rJIOOBKSS OF iJiGnO. DISgOVKKT. clOBQ of 1836, it haying been represented to the ^.d muliUty, from Hull, that eleven wnale ships, having on board 600 men, were left in the ice in Davis' Strait, and in imminent danger of periling, nnleae rdief were forwarded ta them, the Loras Commissioners resolved upon sending out a ship to search for them* Captain tJEbDss, with that promptitude and humanity which has alwavs characterized nim, volunteered to go out in the depth ct' winter, and the lieutenants, F. IL M. Crozier, Inman, and Ommaney, with the three mates, Jesse, Buchan, and John Smith, and Mr. Hallett, clerk in cliarge, Joined him. They sailed from England on the 21st of j!)ecember, and on arriving in Davis^Strait, after a stormy passage, found that nine of the missing ships were by that time in England, that the tenth was re- leased on her passage, and that the other was in all probability lost, as some of her water-casks had been picked up at sea. From 1837 to 1838, Captain Boss was emploved in determining the variation of the com- pass on aU parts of the coast of Great Britain ; and irc^a 1839 to 1843, as Captain of the Erebus, in com- mand of the -antarctic expedition. In 1841, he was presex^ted with the foundoi*'s medal />f the Boyal Geo- graphical Society of Lond<», f(nr his discoveries toward the SouUi Pole ; and he has also received the gold medal of the Geographical Society of Paris. On the 13th of March, 1844, ne received uie honor of knig!l^ hood from the Queen, and in June of the same year the University of Oxford bestowed on him their hono^ ary degree of D. C. L. In 1MB, he went out, as we have ju9t seeUf in the Entei^prise, in Command of one of the searching expeditions sent to seek for Franklin. TOTAOB OF H. M. ^IfOBTH StAE." ■f ' • ' . Tbe North Star, of 500 tons, was fitted out In the •pffing of 1849, under the command of Mr. J. Saunders, wJm had been aelang master with Captain Bade, in the Tl^moTyTD her perilous voyage t0 ^6 Frosen Strait, in :t: VOYAGE OF TUB KOSTU WTAJBU fi91 The following are the officers of the ships :*- Haeter Commanding — J. Saunders. Second Masters — John Way, M. Korman, H. B. Gawler. Acting Ice-mastors — J. Leach, and G. Sabestor. Assistant Surgeon — James Kae, M. D. Clerk in Charge — Jasper Butter. The Korth Star sailed ^om the river Thames, on the 2^ of May, 1849, freighted with provisions for the missing expedition, and with orders and supplies for the Enterprise and Investigator. The following is one of &e early dispatches from the eommander : — " To the Secretary of the Admiralty, « jET. M. 8:]forth Star, July 19, 1849, lat, 74« 8' iT., long. 59° 40' TT. *'Sir, — I addressed a letter to their Lordships on the 18th ult, when in lat 73° 30' K., and long. 66^ 53' W., detailing the particulars of my proceedings up to that date, which letter was sent by a boat from the Lady Jane, whaler, wHich vessel was wrecked, and those boats were proceeding to the Danish settlements. Since then, i regret to state, our process has been almost entirely itopped, owing to the ice being so placed across Mel- ville Bay 'as to render it perfectly impassable. '' On the 6th inst., findmg it impossible to make any progress, I deemed it advisable to run as far S. as 72 , examining the pack as we went along. At 72° 22' the pacf appeared slacker, and we entered it, and, after proceeding about twelve miles, found ourselves com- pletely stopped by large floes of ice. We accordingly pat back, and steOsed again for the northward. ' " Having this day reached the latitude of 74° 3' N., ind lonff. 59° 40' W., the ice appeared more open, and (Testooa in .toward the land, when we observed two boats approaching, and which afterward^ on coming ilon^side, were found to belong to the Prince of Wales, whaler, which vessel was nipped by the ice on the 12tb nst., in Melville Bay. __ • ^ ^ 892 FKOOKKM OF AUCTriU DldOOVUKT. " By the captain of the Prince of Wales I forward this letter to their Lordships, he intending to procood in Ids boats to the Banish settlements. *^ X have the honor to be, &g. *^ J. Saundkbb, Master and Oommander. " P. S.— Grew all well on board." On the 29th of July, having reached the vicinity of the BeviPs Thumb and MeWille Bay, in the northerly part of Baffin^s Bav, she was beset in an ice-field, with which she drifted nelplesslv* about as the tide or wind impelled her. until the 16tn of August, when, a slight < opening in the ice appearing, an effort was made to | heave through into clear water. This proved labor in vain, and no further move was made until the 21st of September, except as she drifted in the ice floe in which she was fixed. On the day last named she was driving betbre a hard ^le from the S. S. W., directly down upon an enoitnous iceberg in Melville Sound, upon which it she had struck in the then prevailing weather, her total destruction would have been inevitable, rroviden- tially a comer of the ice-field in which she was being earned furiously alonff came Into violent collision with the berg, a large section was carried away, and she escaped. On the 29th of September, 1S49, having been sixty-two days in the ice, she took up her winter quar- ters in North Star Bay, so called after herself, t^small bay in Wolstenholme Sound, lying in W 33' north lat- itude, and 68° 56' west longitude ; the farthest point to the north at which a Britisn ship ever wintered. • The ship was fixed about half a mile firom the shore, and made snug for the winter, sails were unbent, the masts struck, and the ship housed over apd made as warm and comfortable as circumstances woidd permit. The Ice soon after took across the Sound, so tnat the crew could have walked on shore. The cold was intense ; but two or three stores warmed the ship, rfhd the crews were cheered up and encouraged with all sorts of games and amusements, occasionally visiting the shore ror the purpose of skylarking. !niere was, unfortunately, )>ut little game tj shoot. Former accounts gave this ph i» TOYAOB OF TBI KORTK ITAB. a higlfeliftnieldr for deer and other anlitiAlg ; but the crew of the North Star nevfr saw a single head of deer, and other animals were scarce ; abont fifty hares were killed. Foxes j^ere numerous, and a number shot, but none taken alive. A few Esquimaux families occasion- ally visited the ship, and one poor man was brought on board with his feet so frozen that they dropped.- He was placed under the care of the assistant-Burffeon, Dr. Rae, who paid him much attention, and his feffs were nearly curad ; but he died from a pulmonary disorder after having been on board some six weeks. The North Star was not able to leave this retreat until the 1st of August, 1850, and sot into clear water on the diird of that month. On me 21st of August, she spoke the Lady Franklin, Oaptain Penny, and her consort tiie Sophia, and the following da^ the Felix, Bir John Boss, in Lancaster Sound. Oaptam Penny reported that he had lefb Oapf ^in Austin all well on the ITth of August. On the 28d of August, the North Star began landing the provisions she had carried out in Navy Board In- let ; 73° 44' N. latitude, 80° 66' W. longitude. She remained five days there, and was occupied four and a half in landing the stores, whidi were deposited in a ravine a short distance from the beach of Supply Bay, thft bight in Navy Board Inlet, which the commander of the North Star so named. Tne position of the stores wi^ indicated by a flagHBtaf^ with a black baU, and a letter placed beneath a cairn ni stones. They had pre- viously tried to deposit the stores at Port Bowen,«and Port Neale, but were prevented approaching them by the ice. On the 30th of Au^st, the North Star saw and spoke the schooner Pnnce Albert, Commander Forsyth, in Possession Bay. On the 31st, a boat was Bent to the Prince Albert, when Commander Forsyth came on board and reported that he had also been to Port Neale, but had not been able to enter for the ice, and had found one of the American ships sent out to search for Sir John Franklin ashore in Barrow's Strait, that he had tendered assistance, which had been de- clined by the American commander, as, his ship beings 9M n PBOQKiM or ABOnO DmOOVXBT. ianii\inrod, lie believed Ids own crew oompeteii^ to gel Uoi' oK Commander Forr^th reported that Oaptain Austin liad proceeded to Pond's ^ay in tke Intrepid, ^ndor to the Assistance, to land lett^. Tbo North Star wont on to Pond's Bay, but could not find any in dication of Oaptain Austin's having been there. It is conjectured that ho had passed the app(Hntod spot in a fog. The North Star's people suffei^ much irom the intense cold, but only lost nve hands during her peril- ous trip and arctic winter quarters. She left tliere on September 9th, and reached Spithead on the 28th of September, 1850. Since his return Mr. Saunders has been appointed Master Attendant of the Dock-yard at Malta. Tlie Admiralty have received dispatches from Captain Sir J. Boss, Captain Penny, and Captain Om- maney. Captain Ommaney, in the Assistance, dating from ofi" Lancaster Sound, latitude 76*^ 46' N., loDffi- tude T&^ 49' W., states that some Esquimaux had de- scribed to him a ship being hauled in during the last winter, and, on ^ing to the spot, he found, m>m some papers left, that it was the North Star. He was pro- ceeding to search in Lancaster Sound. Captain Penny, of the Lady Franklin, writing from Lancaster Sound, August 21, states, that having heard on the 18th from Captain Austin of a report from, the Esquimaux, that Sir John Franklin's ships had been lost forty miles north, and the crews murdered, he went with an inte^ preter, but could find no^evidence for the rumor, and came to the condnsion liiat the whole story had been founded on the North Star's wintering there. He con- 8idei*ed that his interpreter, M. Petersen, had done much good by exposing the &llacy of the story of Sir J Koss's Esquimaux. Heb Majesty's Ships "Emtebpbisb" aztd ^'Investioa TOB** UNDBB CaPTAIN CoLLXNSON. ■ Tum Enbrprise and Investigator were fitted out agair immediately on their return nome, and placed midei tho chargo of Captain B. Collinson, C. B., with the fol * \ ■ ^: SECOND TSir or XMTICKrAiaE JJTD IXTiniOATOB. 2i^ loiriBg«t>filcen attached, to prooeed to Behring's Strait, to reeume the Mareh ia that direction ;— JSkterprUey 840 tons, , Captain— KfOoUinson. liontonants-^O. A. Phayre,* J. J. Barnard,* aneen received frx>m Oaptain Ool linson, O. B^ of her Majesty's ship Enterprise, and Commander liTOlure, of her Majesty's ship Investigator l»f which the liE^owing are €Q]»e0 :-^ *^Pof4mareMi8j8epe, 13^1960, **Sir,-^I have the honor to transmit an account of the proceedings Of her Majesty's ship miLder my com mand since leaving Oahn on the 30^ of June. ^' Being delayed by light winds, we only reached tha western end of the Aleutian Ohain by the 29th of July, and made the Island of St. Lawrenee on the .11th ot . August, from whence I shaped a course for Oape jLii^ bwne, in anticipation of felling i|t,li^|l, |ili« ^^<^.<|f,i t m vaoamm ew iaano vaocmarr. the Plorer. Kot, however, Mtiiig either of these ym. selfl, and finding nothiiiff depoeited on shore, I went on to Wainwright Inlet, the last rendezvous appointed. Here we eommnnieated T/> PKOOEESS OF AKOnC DISaiV'KRT. n« iffi \ water producing a swisll on the bar, it became a ques- tion wnether a considerable portion of the ensuing season might not be lost in getting the ship out of Grantley Harbor ; and on consulting Captains Kellet and Moore, finding it to be their opmion, founded on the experience of two years, that the whalers coming from the south pass through the Strait early in June, whereas the harbors are blocked until the middle of July, I have come to the conclusion that I shall better perform the important duty confided in me by return- ing to the south, and replenishing my provisions, in- stead of wintering on the Asiatic Shore, where there is not a prospect of our being of the slightest use to the missing expedition. It is therefore mv intention to proceed to Hong Kong, it being nearer tnan Valpa- raiso, and the cold season having set in, my stores and provisions will not be exposed to the heat of a double passage through the tropics ; and as I shall not leave until the Ist of April, I may receive any further in- structions their Loraships may please to communicate. "The Plover has been stored and provisioned, and such of her crew as are not in a fit state to contend with the rigor of a further stay in these latitudes have been removed, and replaced by Captain Kellet, and the paragraphs referring to her in my instructions fulfilled. "1 have directed Commander Moore to communi- cate annually with an Island in St. Lawrence Bay, in latitude 65° 38' N., and longitude 170** 43' W., which is much resorted to by the whalers, and where any communication their Lordships may be pleased to send majr be deposited bv them, as they are not in the habit of cruising on this side of the Strait ; and I have requested Captain Kellet to forward to the Admiralty aU th^ information on this head he may obtain at the Sandwich Islands. "It is my intention to proceed again to the north, and remain in the most eligible position for affording assistance to the Investigator, which vessel, having been &vored with a surprisini^ passage from the Sand- wich Islands* was fkllen in with by the Herald on the BEOOND TBIF OF ENTEKPlCISE AXD IMVEBTlaATOB. 301 81st of Jnly, off Point Hope, and again on tlie 6th of Angn8t, by the Plover, in latitade 70® 44' N., and lon- gitude 159° 52'W., when.Bhe was etandins to the north under a press of sail, and in all probability reached the vicinity of Point Barrow, fifteen days previous to the Enterprise, when Captain M'Clnre, having the whole season before him, and animated with the de- termination so vividly expressed in his letter to Cap- tain Kellett, has most likely taken the inshore route, and I hope before this period reached Cape Bathnrst; but as he will be exposed to the imminent risk of being forced on a shoal snore and compelled to take to his boats, I shall not forsake the coast to the northward of Point Hope until the season is so far advanced as to insure their having taken up their winter quarters for this season. "I have received from my officers and ship's com- pany that assistance and alacrity in the perrormance of their duty, which the noble cause in which we are engaged must excite, and I have the satisfaction to re- port that (under the blessing of God) owing to the means their Lordships have supplied in extra clothing and provisions, we are at present without a man on the sick list, notwithstanding the lengthened period of our voyage. "I have, &c., EioHABD CoLLiNsoir, Captain. "The Secretary of the Admiralty." *Her Mm68ty^8 Discovery-ship *• Investigator^ at sea^ latitude 5^ 26' iT., longitude 172'* 36' TF., July 20. Sir, — As I have received instructions from Captain Oollinson, C. B., clear and unembarrassing, (a copy of which I inclose,) to proceed to Cape Lisbume' in the hope of meeting him in that vicinity, as he anticipates being detained a day or two by the Plover in Kotzebne Sound, it is unnecessary to ada that every exertion shall be made to reach that rendezvous, but can scarce ven- ture to hope :0iat even under very tavorable. drcum^ 302 tt^n^ PSOOSE8S OF ABOriO DI800TBB1. '^ v £}«;' stances I shall be so fortnnato as to ftoeomplifth it ere the Enterprise will have ronnded that eape, from her anpenor sailing, she hitherto having beaten ns bj ei^t da^B to Cape Virffins, and &'om Magellan Strait to oSkn ^W■^.-:, It is, thererore, und^r the probable case that this vessel may ibrm a detached part of the expedition that I feel it my duty to state, tor the iiiformation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, the course which, under such a contingency, I shall endeavor to pursue) said hare to request that you will Jay the game Wore their Lordships/ ^^ 1. After parsing Cape Lisbume, it is my intention to keep in the open water, which, from the different repprts that I have read, appears about this season of the year to make between the American coast and the main pack as far to the northward as the 130th meridian, unless a fiivorable opening should earlier appear in the ice, which would lead me to infer that I might push P)Ore directlj»fbr Banka' Land, which I think is ot the utmost importance to thoroughly examine. In the event of thus far succeeding, and the season continuing favor- able for further operations^ it would be my anxious desire to get to the northward of Melville Island, and res^ume our search along its shores and the islands adja- cent as long as the navigation can be carried on, and then secure for the winter in the most eligible position which offers. ^' 2. In the ensuing spring, as soon as it is practicable for traveling parties to start, I should dispatdi as many as the state of the crew will admit of in different direc* tibns, each being provided with forty days' provisions, with directions to examine minutely all bays, inlets and idands toward the northeast, asoending occasionally Bomef of the highest points of land, so as to bo enabled to .obtaift extended views, being particularly cautious in their advance to observe any indication of a br^ak up in the ice, so that their return to the ship may be effected without hazard, even before the expenditure of theii provisions would otherwise render it necessary. ■^^A Supposing the parties to have niumM without 61E0OND TSIP OF SNTDRPKISB AND jNTBKTIOATOlt. 80^ obtaining any cine of the absent Bhips, and^e vessel liberated about the 1st of August, my object would then be to push oa toward Wellington Inlet, assuming that that cnannel ooinmunicateB with the Polar Sea, and search both its shores, unless in doing so some indication ehould be met with to show that parties from any of Captain Austin's vessels had previously done so, when I enould return, and endeavor to penetrate in the direc- tion of Jones' Sound, carefully examining every place that was fottcticable. Should our efforts to reach this point be successful, and in the route no traces are dis- cernible of the long missing expedition, I should not then be enabled longer to divest myself of the feelings, painful as it must be to arrive at such a conclusion, that (dl human aid would then be perfectly unavailing ; and therefore, under such a conviction, I would think it my duty, if possible, to return to England, or at all events endeavor to reach some port that would insure that ob- ject upon the following year. *' 4. In the event ot this being our last communica* tion, X would request you to assure their lordships that no apprehensions whatever need be entertained of our safety until the autumn of 1854, as we have on board three years of all species of provisions, commencing from the Ist of September proximo, which, without much deprivation, may be made to extend over a period of four years ; moreover, whatever is killed by the hunt- ioff parties, I intend to issue in lieu of the usual rations, which will still further protract our resources. '^It gives me great pleasure to say that the good effects of the fruit and vegetables, (a large quantity of which we took on board at O^hu,) are very perceptible in the incieased vigor of the men, who at this monient are in as excellent condition as it is possible to desire, and evince a spirit of confidence and a cheerfulness of disposition which are beyond all appreciation. ^' 5. ShoiiJid difficulties apparently insurmountable en* compass our progress, so as to render it a matter of doubt whether the vessel could be extricated, I should deem it expedient in that case not to hazard the Uvea 804 iPBOOKESS OF ABCmO DiSCOViBBT. •''^'^"*3»t 0i thos&^trueted to my char^ after the winter of 1852, but iii the ensuing spring quit the vessel with sledget Und boats, and make the best of our way either to Pond's Bay, Leopold Harbor, the Mackenzie, or for whalers, according to circumstances. ^ "Finally. In this letter 1 have endeavored to give an outline of what I wish to accomplish, (and what, under moderately favorable seasons, appears to me attainable,) the carrying out of which, however, not resting upon human exertions, it is impossible even to surmise if any, or what, portion may be successfiil. But my object in addressing you is to place their Lordships in possession of my intentions up to the latest period, so far as possi- ble, to relieve their minds from any unnecessary anxiety as to our fate ; and having done this, a duty which is incumbent from the deep sympathy expressed by their Lordships, and participated in by all classes of onr countrymen, in the interesting object of this expedition, I have only to add, that with the ample resources which a beneficent government and a generous country have placed at our disposal, (not any thing that can add to our comfort being wanting,) we enter upon this distin- guished service with a firm determination to carry out, as far as in our feeble strength we are permitted, their benevolent intentions. "I have, &c, "IloBEET M'Clttee, Commander." ^ ^Jier MoAesty^s ship ^Enterpriser ,_ '^Oahu. June 29, 1S50. *' Mbmorandum. — ^As soon as Her Majesty's ship under your command is fully complete with provisions, fuel, and water, you will make the best of your way to Cape Lisbume, keeping a good look-out for the Herald, or casks, and firing gnus in foggy weather, after passing Lawrence Bay. The whalers also may a£Eord you infor- mation of our progress. £« « (Should you obtain no intelligence, you will under- stand that I intend to make the pack close to -the Ameri- DISPATCMKi FliOM UNTUBPBISB AND QTVmTlOATOB. 305 can shoro, and pursue the first favorable openJuff west of the Coast stream, pressing forward toward^l^ivillA Island. In the event of meeting land, it is most probr ble that I would pursue the southern shore, but conspit uous marks will be erected, if practicable, and inform! tion buried at a ten-foot radius. " As it is necessary to be prepared for the contin gencv of your not being^ able to follow by the ice dos ing m, or the severity of the weather, you will in that case keejp the Investigator as close to the edge of the pack as is consistent with her safety, and remain there uatil the season compels you to depart, when vou will look into Kotzebue &ound for the IPlover, or mforma- tion regarding her position ; and having deposited un- der her cha^e a twelve month's provisions, you will proceed to V alparaiso, replenish, and return to tho Strait, bearing in mind that the months of June and July are the most favorable. " A letter from the hydrographer relative to the vari- ation of the Compass is annexed ; and you will bear in mind that the value of these observations will he greatly enhanced by obtaining the variation with the ship's head at every second or fourth point round tlie com- pass occasional]^, and she should be swung for devia- tion in harbor as often as opportunity may offer. " Should you not find the Plover, or that any casualty has happened to render her inefficient as a aepot, you will taKe her place ; and if, (as Captain Kellett sup- poses,) Kotzebue Sound has proved too exposed for a winter harbor, you will proceed to Grantley Harbor, leaving a notice to that effect on Chamisso Island. The attention of your officers is to be called, and you will read to your ship's company, the remarks of Sir J. Eichardson concerning the communication with the Esquimaux, contained in the arctic report received at Plyraouth. " Your operations in the season 1851, cannot be guided by me, nor is there any occasion to urge you to proceed to the northeast ; yet it will be highly desir- ablt>, previous to entering the pack, that you completed 006 ^^ '^'*'" Pft60KE8S OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. ^ provision from whalers, and obtained as mnch reindeer meat a8^)8sible. Captain Kellett's toarrative will point oitit Where^ the latter la to b6 had in most abundance, and where coal can be picked up on the beach ; but hnsband the latter article daring the winter, by using all the drift-wood in-yonr power. ' "In the event of leaving the Strait this season, you Trill take any weak or si3kly men out of the Plover, and replace them from your crews, affording Com- mander Moore all the assistance in your power, and leaving with him Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter ; in- Btructions with regard to whose accommodations you have received, and will convey to the obtain of the Plover. "ElOHAED COLLINSOir. w: ^ " To Commander 2P dure, of her -^ ^ ., , Majeaty^s ship * Inveatigaior? 1 ** Should it be the opinion of Coimnander Moore thiit the services of the Investigator's ship's company in ex- ploring parties during the spring would be attended with material benefit to the object of the expedition, he will, notwithstanding these orders, detain you tor that purpose ; but care must be taken that your effi- ciency as a sailing vessel is not crippl|4 by the parties not returning in tmie for the opening of the sea. "B. C." ** Her Mojesby^a discovery ship * Investigator,^ My • 28, 1860. Kotzebue Sound, latitude 66® 64' M., V longUudel^%'' W, V " Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you, for the in- formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi- rsdty, that to this date we have had a most excellent rpn. Upon eetting clear of Oahu, on the morning of the 6th, we ahaped a course direct for the Aleutian group, passing them in 172° 40' W., upon the evening of the 20th ; continued our course with a fine south- easterly breeze, but extremely thick and foggy weather, (which retarded the best of our way being made.) Got fairly out of Behring's Strait upon the evening of tJi© ▼^ Va*ik<»B of THE FLOtBR, VtC W I7th, and ai« now in a fair way of realizing their Lord- ffaips' expectations of reaclting the iee by the be^^h- ning of AngnBt, onr progress wing advanced by the fiiTorablo circnmstanees of a fine sontherly wind and tolerably dear weather. The latter we have known nothing of sinee the 10th j which, 1 can assure yon, ren- dered the navigaticm among the islands a snbjiect of much and deep anxiety, seldom having a horizon abovo 480 yards, that jnst enabled the datk outline pf the land to be observed and avoidied. <^ It is with much satis&ctiPn th^t f j^fort the good qualities of this vessel, having well tried her in the heavy galea experienced dunng five weeks off Cape Horn, and in moderate weather among the intricalbo navigation of these islands, where so much depended npon her quick obedience to the hehn, although lad^ with every species of stores and pi^visions for upward of three years. From these circumstances I km, there- fore, fuUy satisfied she is as thoroughly adapted for this service as could be reasonably Wished. v ^'I have not seen any thing of the Enterprisei nor is it my intention to lose a moment by waiting on Cape iJBbnme, but shfpll use my best endeavors to carry out the intentions contained m n^ letted of the 20tn, of which I earnestly trust their Lordships will approve. '> I am happy to be able to state that the whole crew are in excellent health and Bpirits, and eyery thing aa satisfactory as it is possible to desire. ** I have, &c., ^'EoBsaT M'CLTrttB, Commander^, f* The Secreiarp qf the Admiralty, ^\ VoTAGB OF H. M. S. " ^LOVBB," AHD BoAT ExPEDmOM TJin)EB COIOCAIIDBB PULLSN, 1848-61. "^ In the copy of the instructions issued from the Ad* miralty to lieutenant, (now Commander,) Moore, oif the Plover, dated 3d of January, 1848, he was directed to make, the best of his way to Petropa,ulowskl, toueh- Ing at Panama, where she was to be loked by H. H. M* ■* 808 PKOOKE88 OF ABCnO DISOOYKBT. 6. Herald, and afterward both veasels were to proceed to Behring's Strait, where they were expected to arrive about the Ist of July, and then push along the Ameri- can coast, as £eu: as possible, consistent with the cer- tainty of preventing the ships being beset by the ice. The rlover was then to be secured for the winter in some safe and convenient port from whence boot par- ties might be dispatched, and the Herald was to return and transmit, via Panama, any intelligence necessary to England. Great caution was orderea to be observed in communicating with the natives in the neighborhood of Kotzebue Sound, should that quarter be visited, as the people in that part of the country differ in charac- ter from the ordinary Esquimaux, in being compara- tively a fierce, i^ile, and suspicious race, well armed widi knives, &c., for offense, and prone to attack. They were uso ordered to take interpreters or guides from a szpall factory of the Buosian-American Company in Norton Sound. The Plover was si^ely ensconced for the winter of 1849-50 in Kotzebue Sound, after the termination of a hard season's work. She had, coniointly with the He^ aid, dis(^overed to the north of l5eh|ing's Strait, two islands, and several am)arently disconnected patches of very elevated jg*ounaf Lieut. Pullon had previously quitted her off W ainwright Inlet, with four boats, for the purpose of prodecutmff his adventurous voyage along the coast to the mouSi of the Mackenzie Biver, where he arrived safely on the 26th of August, after a perilous navigation c^tnirty-two days, but had obtained no clue or intelligence regarding the prime object-of his expedition. At a later date he encountered at Fort Simpson, higher up the river, Dr. Bae, and gathered #om that gentleman that the party led by him down the Coppermine, with the view of crossing over to Vic toria or WoUaston Land, had, owing to the unusual difficulties created by the more than customary rigor of the season, met with entire failure ; the &rthes^ point attained being Cape Kmsenstem. '^^JMat, Pullen is occupied during the present year in TOY-A-GE OF TUE fLOYlOi, KIO. ao9 A journey from the mouth of the Mackenzie eastward, along the arctic coast, as far as Cape Bathurst, and thia being successfully accomplished, he purposes attempt- ing to cross the intervening space to BanJu' Land. He ismmished with two boats, both open. Lieut. W. H. Hooper, one of the party, in a recent letter to his father in London, writing from Great Slave Lake, under date June 27, 1850, ^ives some further de- tails of their proceedings. Having had eonslderab^ trouble and a slight skirmish with some parties of Es- quimaux, they were obliged to be continually on the watch. At the end of August, the party entered the Mackenzie Kiver, and in a few days reached one of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the Peel Kiver, a branch of the Mackenzie, where Commander Pullen left Lieut. Hooper and half the party to winter, while he proceeded mrther up the river to a more important post at Fort Simpson. After remaining at Peel's River station about a fortnight, Mr. Hooper found that his party could i;iot be mamtained throughout the winter there, and in consequence determined on following Capt. Pullen, but was only able to reach Fort Norman, one of his party being frost-bitten on the journey. They thence made their way across to Great Bear Lake, where they passed the winter, subsisting on fish and water. Dr. Kae arrived there as soon as the ice broke up, and the party proceeded with him to Fort Simpson. On the 20th of June, Commander Pullen and all his party left with the company's servants, and the stock of furs, on their yay to Uie sea, to embark for England, when they were met, on the 26th, by a canoe wim Ad- miralty dispatches, which caused them to retrace their steps ; and they are now on their route by the Great Slave Lake to Fort Simpson, and down the Mackenzie once more, to the Polar Sea, in search of Sir John Franklin. "However grieving," Lieut. Hooper adds, " it is to be disappointed of returning home, yet I am neverth^ less delighted to so again, and think that we do not hopeless^ undertake another search, since pifr intended \-^ IttO Ttmiiitk of iiCTfO DISOOTBBT. direetion is considered the most probable channel foi finding Xhe missiiiff ships or crews. We ^o down th« Mackenzie, along 3ie coast eastward to Point Bathurst, and thence strike across to Wollaston or Banks' Land. The season will, of course, much influence our proceed- ings ; but we shall probably return up the hitherto unexplored river which runs into the Arctic Ocean from Liverpool Bay, between the Coppermine and Mackenzie.'' The latest official dispatch from Commander PnUen is dated Great Slave Lake, June 2$th. He had been stopped by the ice, and intended returning to Fort Simpson on the 29th. One of his boats was so battered about as to be perfectly useless ; he intended patching up the other, and was also to receive a new boat be- longing to the Hudson's Bay Comjaany, from Fort Simpson. He had dismissed two of his party, as they were both suffering from bad health, but proposed en- gaging, at Fort Good Hope, two Hare Indians as hunt- ers and guides, one of whom had accompanied Messrs. Dease and Simpson on their trips of discovery in 183S and 1839. This would augment the party to seventeen persons in all. "My present intentions," he says, " are to proceed down the Mackenzie, along the coast, to Cape Bathurst, and then strike across for banks' Land ; my operations must then, of course be guided by circumstances, but I shall strenuously endeavor to search along all coasts in that direction as far and as late as I can with safety venture ; returning, if possible, by the ^Mackenzie, or by the Beghoola, which tho Indians speak of as being aavigable, as its head waters are, (according to Sir John Riclwrdson,) only a nine-days' passage from Fort Good Hope ; to meet which, or a sinular contingency, I take snow shoes and sledges, i&c. " In conclusion, I be^ to assure their Lprdi^ips of my earnest determination to carry out their views to th0 utniost of my ability, being confident, from the eagerness of the party, that no pains will bo spared, no neplEissary labor avoided, and, oy God's blessing, wo •YOYAQE OF TKB PLOVKB, JBtO. iBii hope to be Bnocessfiil in discoyering some tidings of our gallant countrymen, or even in restoring them to their native land and anxious relatives." Mr. Ohief Factor Bae was about to follow Com- mander Pullen and his party from Portage La Loche. Dr. Kichardson observes that *' Commander Pullen will require to be fully victualed for at least 120 days from the 20th of July, when he may be expected to commence his sea voyage ; which, for sixteen men, will require ^orty-five bags of pemmican of 90 lbs. each. This is exclusive of a further supply which he ought to take for the relief of any of Franklin's people he may have the good fortune to find. After he leaves the main-land at Cape Bathurst, he would hlave no chance of killing deer till he makes Banks' Land, or some in- tervening island ; and he must provide for the chance of being caught on the floe ice, and having to make his way across by the very tedious ^rtag^, as fully de- scribed by Sir W. K Parry in the narative of his most adventurous boat voyage north of Smtzbergen. *' Mr. Bae can give Commander Pullen the idlest information respecting the depots of pemmican made on the coast. ^^With respect to Commander PuUen's return from sea, his safest plan will be to make for the Mackemue ; but should circumstances place that out of his power, the only other course that seems to me to be practicable is tor him to aacend a large river which fiEUls into the bottom of Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Ba- thurst This river, which is named the Begloola I>e88y by the Indians, runs parallel to the Mackenzie, and in the latitude of Fort Good Hope, {e^" 30' K.,) is not above five or six days' journey from ihat post. Hare Indians, belonging- to ^ort Good Hope, iilight be en gaged to hunt on the banks of the river till the amval of the party. The navigation of the river is unknown^ but even should Commander Pullen be compelled to quit his boats, his Indian hunters, (of which he should at least engage two f(^ his sea vo]^age,) will 6U{4>ort and guide his party. Wood and anin^s are most cer- tainly found on the banks of rivers. 3 IS PKOGIilCfS OF AKCriO DIfOOVJUUr. " It is not likely that under any ciroumstancM Com. manuer Pollen should desire to reach the Mackenzie by way of the Coppermine Biver, and this could bo effected only by a boat being placed at Dease River, for the transport of the party over Great Bear Lake. This would reanire to be arranged previously with Mr. Kae; ana Commander Pullen should not be later in arriving at Fort Confidence than the end of September." VOTAOE Of THE " LaDT FrAKKLDT ** AND " SoPHIA," GOVEBNMEMT VeSBSLB, UNDBB THE OOMMAMD OF Hi. PENjnr, 1860-61. A vessel of 280 tons, named the Lady Franklin, fit- ted out at Aberdeen, with a new brig as a tender, built at Dundee, and named the Sophia, in honor of Miss 8. Cracroft, the beloved and attached niece of Lady Franklin, and one of the most anxious watchers for ' tidings of the long missing adventurers, were purchased by the government last year. The diarge of this expedition was intrusted to Cap- tain Penny, formerly commanding the Advice whaler, and who has had much experience in the icy seas, hav- ing been engaged twenty-eight years, since the age of twelve, in the whaling trade, and in command of ves- sels for fourteen vears ; Mr. Stewart was placed in charge of the Sophia. The crew of the Lady Franklin number twenty-five, and that of the Sophia, twenty, all picked men. These ships sailed on the 12th of April, 1860, pro- visioned and stored for three years. Tney were pro- vided with a printing press, and every appliance to relieve the tedmm of a long sojourn in the icy regions. In the instructions issued by the Admiralty, it is , stated that in accepting Captain Parry's offer of service, Regard has been had 'to his long experi^ice in arctic navigation, and to the great attention he has paid to the subject of the missing ships. ^ He ^as left in a great measure to the ezerdse of his "i-^^'a^p-aw .£-i<*>i: '^■^A.i:^; )/ TOY AUK OF THB HBBOLUTB AlTD AMItlTAIlOB, ETa 818 own judgment and discretion , in oombiniDg the moil active and energetic search aftor the Erebus and Terror, with a strict and careftil regard to the safety of the •liijM and their crews under nis charge. He was di- rected to examine Jones' Sound at tho head of Baffin's Bay, and if possible, penetrate through to the Parry Islands ; £uHng in this, he was to try Wellingtou JStrait, and endeavor to reach Melville Island. He was to use his utmost endeavors, (consistent with the safety of the lives of those intrusted to his command,) to succor, in the summer of 1860, the party under Sir John Fraiik- iin, taking care to secure his winter-quarters in good time ; and 2dly, the same active measures were to be used in the summer of 1851, to secure the return of the Bhips under his charge to this country. The Lady FranklSi was off Cape York, in Baffin's Bay, on the Idth of August. From thence she pro- ceeded, in company with il. M. S. Assistance, to Wol- stenholme Sound. She afterward, in accordance with her instruction^rossed over to the west with the in- tention of examlping Jones' Sound, but; owing to the accumulation of ice, was unable to approach it within twenty-five miles. This was at midnight on the 18th. She, therefore, continued her voyage to Lancaster Sound, and onward to Wellington Channel, where she was seen by Commander Forsyth, of the Prince Albert, )n the 25th of August, with her tender, and H. H. S. Assistance in company, standing toward Cape Hotham. Voyage of H. M. Ships " Bbsolutb " and " Assistance," wnn THE Steamers "Pioneeb" and "Intrepid" AS Tenders, under command of Captain Austin, ^^1850-51. Two fine teak-bnilt sfeipB of abpnt 500 tons each, th fiaboo and Ptarmigan, whose names were altered t the Assistance and Besdute, were purchased by th government in 1850, and sent to the naval yards to be oroperly fitted for the voyage to the polar i-egions. Two screw-propeller steamers, intended to accompany S14 «**& PBOGBESB OP AKCTIC DISOOTEBT. ■ ''^^^Z v*1 ihese vessels as steam tenders, were also purchased and similarly fitted ; their names were changed Jfrom the Eider and Free Trade to the Pioneer and Intrepid. The command of this expedition was intrasted to Captain Horatio T. Austin, €. B., who was first Lieu- tenant of the Fury, nnder Commander Hoppner, in Captain Sir E. Parry's third voyage, in 1824-25. The vessels were provisioned for three years, and their at- tention was also directed to the depots of stores lodged by Sir James Boss at Leopold Island, and at Kavy Board Inlet bv the Korth Star. The ships sailed in May, 1850. The officers employed in them were as follows : — Eesohite. Captain — Horatio T. Austin, 0. B. Lieutenants — R. D. Aldrich, and "W. H» J. Browne. Mates — R. B. Pearse, and W. M. May^. Purser — J. E. Brooman. Surgeon — A. R. Bradford. |fe A8s;istant,djtto— Richard King, w .^ , Midshipmen — C. Bullock, J. r. Cheyne. Second Master — G. F. M'Dougall. Total complement, 60 men. ^ Pioneer, Bcrew Bte&mer. Lieut-Commandiii^ — Sherard Osbom. Second Master-^ J. H. Allard. Assistant-Surgeon — F. R. Picthom. Assiatanee. Captain — E. Ommaney. Lieutenants — J. E. Elliot, F. L. M'Clintock^ and G. F. Mecham. Surgeon — J. J. L. Donnett. 5%, . ■ r j fb >-^ Assistant, ditto — J. Ward, (a,). iP Mates — R. V. Hamilton, and J. R. Keane. Clerk in Charge — E. N, Harrison. Second Master — W. B. Shellabear, JC^slopman — C. R. Markham. y >n -l- \ ^ '-' Total complement, 60 men. '•*{ Sf**' VOYAGE OF THE EE80LDTE AND ASSISTANCE, ETC. 315 Intrepid, screw Btcamor, , U».'j'4a*^« li. Lieut-Commander — B. Cator. Each of the tenders had a crew of 30 men. Two ot the officers appointed to this expedition, Lien- tenants Browne and MrClintock, were in the Enterprise under Captain Sir James C. Eoss in 1848. The Emma Eugenia transport was dispatched in ad- vance with provisions to the W hale-Fish I^ands, to await the arrival of the expedition. It having been suggested by some parties that Sir John Franklin might have effected his passage to Mel' vUle Island, and been detained there with his ship, or that the ships might have been damaged by the ice in the neighboring sea, and that with his crews he had abandoned them and made his escape to that island, Captain Austin was specially instructed to use every exertion to reach this island, detaching a portion of his ships to search the shores of Wellin^n Channel and the coast about ^f^e Walker, to which point Sir Jolm Franklin was oi^fed to proceed. # Advices were first received from the Assistance, after her departure, dated 5th of July ; she was then making her way to the northward. The season was less favor- able for exploring operations than on many previous years. But little ice had been met with in Davis' Strait, where it is generally found in large quantities, 80 that obstacles ot a serious nature may be expectea to the northward. Penny's ships had been in company with them. Ice is an insurmountable barrier to rapid progress ; ' fortifications may be breached, but huge masses of. ice, 200 to 600 feet high, are not to be overcome. On the 2d of July the .Assistance was towed beneath a perpendicular cliff to the northward of Cape Shackle- ton, risine to the height pf 1500 feet, which was ob-^ served to oe crowded with the foolish guillemots, {TJria troile) When the ship hooked on to an iceberg for the night, a party sent on |hore for the puq^ose brought off 260 birds and about tweiity dozen of their eggs. These birds only lay one Qgg eacfc , „^ 816 PROORKSS OF ARCnO DISCOVERY. ,tf» x*: The following official dispatch has been since received from Captain Ommaney : — ^Ser McMeaty^a ship ^Aasistanoej qfZancaeUr Sound. latitude 76° 46' iT., longitude 76° 49' TT., August 17, 1860. "Sib, — I have the honor to acq^uaint you, for the in- formation of the Lords Oommissioners of thd Admi- ralty, Uiat her Majesty's ship Assistance, and her tender, her Majesty's steam-vessel Intrepid, have this day suc- ceeded in effecting a passage across to the west water, ' and are now proceeding to Lancaster Sound. Officers and crews all well, with fine clear weather, and open water as far as can be seen. " Agreeably with instructions received from Captain H. Austin, we parted companpr on the 16th instant, at one A. M., off Cape Dudley Diggs, as the ice was then sufficiently open to anticipate no farther obstruction in effecting tne north passage. He was anxious to proceed to Poncrs Bay, and thence take up the examination along the south shores of Lancaster Sotu^d, leaving me to ascertain tha truth of a report obtained from the Esqui- maux at Cape York respecting some ship or ships hav- ing been seen near "Wolstenholme Island, after wnich to proceed to the north shores of Lancaster Sound and • Wellington Channel. " On passing Cape York, (the 14th inst.,) natives were seen. !By the directions of Captain Austin I landed, and communicated with them, when we were informed that they had seen a ship in that neighborhood in the spring, and that she was housed in. Upon this intelli- gence I shipped one of the natives, who volunteered to join us as interpreter and guide. "On parting with Captain Austin we proceeded toward Wolstenholme Island, where I left the ship and proceeded in her Majesty's steam- vessel Intrepid into '0^ W olstenholme Sound, and by the guidance of the Esqui- maux, succeeded in finding a bay about thirteen miles iUrther in, and sheltered by a prominent headland. In the cairns erected here we found a document stating u^^^. *:■& "^-T YOTAQS 07 TUG BS80LUTE A.HD ..AS^STANCE) ETC. 317 (hat the North Sjtar had wintered in the bay, a copy of which I hayo the honor to transmit to their Lord- ships. *' Previous to searching the spot where the North Star wintered. I examined me deserted Esquimaux settle- ment. At this s^ot we found eyident traces of some ^4. Bhip having been in the neighborhood, from empty pre- ; served meat canisters and some clothes left near a pool ( f water, marked with the name of a corporal belonging to the North Star. " Having ascertained this satisfactory information, I returned to Wolstenholmo Island, where a document was deposited recording our proceedings. At 6 a. m., of the I6th inst, I rejoined the ship, ana proceeded at two to the westward, and am happy to inform you that the passage across has been made without obstruction, tow- mg through loose and strangling ice. "The expedition was beset in Melville Bay, sur- rounded by heavy and extensiye floes of ice, from the nth of July to the 9th of August, 1850, when, after great exertion, i^i6lcase was effected, and we succeeded m reaching Cape York by continuinff along the edge of the land-ice, alter which we have oeen favored with plenty of water. " Captain Penny's expedition was in company during the most part of tne time whi\. in Melyille Bay, and up to the 14th inst., when we left him off Cape Dudley Digffs — all well. "In crossing Melville Bay we fell in with Sir John Ross and Captain Forsyth's expeditions.. These Capt Austin has assisted by towing them toward their desti- nations. The latter proceeded with him, and the former has remained with us. "Having placed Sir John Ross in a fair way of reaching Lancaster Sound, with a fair wind and open water, his vessel has been cast off in this position. I shall, therefore, proceed with all dispatch to the exami- nation of the north shores of Lancaster Sound and Wellington Channel, according to Captain Austin's # directions. '^ ..._.,._ . - •■r^ .^^ 818 PBOOBE68 OF ABOno DSBOOVEBT. .:. ;^ .';. 'If --'"▼ i'i^'X have the honor to he, Sir, ybur mosl ohedlont humble servant. ,*' Erasmus Ommauey, Captain." The Kesolategot qle'ar of the Orkneys on the 15th of > Haj, and arrived with her consort and the two tenders at the Whale-Fish Islands on the 14th of June. The Kesohite was in Possession Bay on the 17th of An^st. Fix)m thence her proposed conrse was along the coast, northward and westward, to Whaler Point, situated at the southern extremity of Port Leopold, and afterward to Melville Island. In order to amuse themselves and their comrades, the officers of the Assistance had started a MS. newspaper, nnder the name of the " Aurora Borealis." Many of my readers will have heard of the "Cockpit Herald," and such other productions of former days, m his Majes- ty's fleet. Parry, too, had his jomTial to beguile the long hours of the tedious arctic winter. ^ ' rhave seen copies of this nov^^specimen of the •fourth estate," dated Baffin's Bay, i^fe, 1860, in which there is a happy mixture of grave and gay, prose and reree ; nnmerons very feir acrostics are pubUed. I append, by way of curiosity, a couple of extracts : — ' **What insect that Koah had with him, were these regions named after?- — ^The arc-tic." " To tli§ editor of the Aurora Borealis. '^''SiB,-^ Haying heard from an arctic voyager that he )ias seen ' crows'-nests* in those icy regions, I beg to inquire through your columns, if they are built by the crows, {Corvus ttntinnahulua,) whica Goodsir states to utter a metallic belUike croak? My fast friend begs me to inquire when rook shooting commences in thoee Riggings? JP. " A Natueaijst. [" We would reoommend to * A Naturalist ' a visit to '■^^ these * crows'-nests,' which do exist in the arctic regioris. We would also advise his faai^ friend to investigate .•JrVa^i A'As VOYAGE or fttt JOHN B068 IN THS FELUL, ETC. 319 tttese eaid nesta more thoroughly ; be would find them tenanted by ver^ old birds (ioe quartex^^nastere,) who would not onl^ inform him as to the species of crows and the sporting season, but would give them a fair chance of showing him how a pigeon may be plucked. — Editob."] VoYAG* OF Captain Seb John Ross in the "Felix" PXIYATB SOHOONKB, 1850-51. ri\ In April, I860, Captain Sir John Ross having vol- unteerea his services to proceed in the search, was en- abled, by the liberality of the Hudson's Bay Company, who contributed 600?., and public subscription, to leave England in the Felix schooner, of 120 tons, with a picked crew, and accompanied by Commander C. Ger- vans Phillips, R. N. She also had the Mary, Sir John's own yacht of twelve tons, as a tender. Mr. Abemethy proceeded as ice-master, having accompanied Sir John in his former voyage to Boothia; and Mr. Sivewright was mate of the Felix. The vessels sailed from Scot- land on the 23d of May, and reached Holsteinborg in June, where Captain Ross succeeded in obtaining a «i Danish interpreter who understood the Esquimaux language ; he then proceeded on, calling at the Whale- Fish Islands, and passing northway through the Way- gatt Strait, overtook, on the 10th of August, H. M. ships Assistance and Resolute, with their tenders the Intrepid and Pioneer, under the command of Captain Anstm. ■ ; ..:i4,^.. ^. ^ ..... ... On the 13th of August, Captain Ommaney in the Assistance, and Sir John Ross in the Felix, being somewhere off Cape York, observed three male Es- (juimaux on the ice close by, and with these people it was prudently resolved to communicate. Accord- ingly, Lieutenant Cator in the Intrepid steamer, tender to the Assistance, and Commander Phillips in the whale-boat of the Felix, put off on this service. The Intrepid's people arrived firat, but apparently without any means of expressing their desires, so that when the ^'^'% 320' ^'^ < PROOBESS OF ARCnO DISOOVBET. '^-'^^t boat of the Felix, containing an Esquimaux interpreter, joined the party, the natives immediately gave signs of recognition and satisfaction, came into the l)oat with- out the least hesitation, and engaged themselves pre- sently in a long and animated conversation with theit countryman the interpreter. Half an hour was de- voted to this interchange of intelligence, but with no immediate result, for the interpreter could only trans- late his native language into Danish, and as no person in the boat understood Danish, the information re- mained as inaccessible as before. In this predicament the boats returned with the intention of confronting the interpreter — whose christianized name is Adam Beek — with Sir John Ross himself. As Sir John, however, was pushing ahead in the Felix toward Cape Dudley Diggs, and as Adam appeared anxious to disburden himself of his newly acquired information, the boats dropped on board the Prince Albert, another of the exploring vessels in the neighborhood, and there put Adam in communication with the captain's steward, John Smith, who " unde.*8tood a little ot the language," .as Sir John Ross says, or "a good deal," as Co;n- mander Phillips says, and who presently gave such an account of the intelligence as startled every body on board. Its purport was as follows ; — ^That in the win- ter of 1846, when the snow was falling, tw?> ships were crushed by the ice a good way off in the direction of Cape Dudley Diggs, and afterward buraed by a fierce ana numerous tribe of natives ; that the ships in ques- tion were not whalers, and that epaulettes were worn by some of the white men ; that a part of the crews were drowned, that the remainder were some time in huts or tents apart from the natives, that they had guns, but no balls, and that being in a weak and exhausted condition, they were subsequently killed by the natives with darts or arrows. This was the form given to the Esquimaux story by John Smith, captain's stewun^ of the Prince Albert. Impressed with the importance of these tidings, Captain Ommaney and Commander Phillips immediately made their report to Captain VOTAOE OF BIB JOHN BOSB IN THB F£LIZ, ETC. 321 AnBtin in the Resolute, which was then in company with the Felix near Cape Dudley Di^gs. Captain Aus- tin at once decided^ upon investigating the credibility of the story, and with this view dispatched a message to the Lady Franklin, another of the exploring* ships» which lay a few miles off, and which had on board a regular Danish interpreter. This interpreter duly ar- rived, but proceeded forthwith to translate the story by a statement " totally at variance " with the interpreta- tion of " the other," whom, as we are told, he called a liar and intimidated into silence ; though no sooner was thp latter left to himself than he again repeated his version of the tale, and stoutly maintained its accuracy. Meantime an additional piece of information became known, namely, that a certain ship had passed the win- ter safely housed in Wolstenholme Sound — a state- ment soon ascertained by actual investigation to be perfectly true. The following is an extract of a letter from- Captain Sir John Boss, H. JV., to Captain W. A.B, Hamilton, R. N., Seoreta/ry of the Admiralty. " ' Felix ' discovery yacht, off Admiralty Inlet, " Lancaster Sound, August 22. " Sir, — I have to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that the; Felix discovery yacht, with her tender, the Mary, after obtaining an Esquimaux interpreter at Holsteinborg, and calling at Whale-Fidh Islands, proceeded north way through the Waygatt Straits, and overtook her Ma- jesty's discovery ships, under the command of Captain Austin on the 11th of August ; and on the 12th the senior officer and the second in command having cor- dially communicated with me on the best mode of performing the service on which we are mutually em- barked, arrangements were made and concluded for a' simultaneous examination of every part of the eastern side of a northwest passage in which it was probable that the missing ships could be bound : documents ti m tm i-i'i »iLf fBfJQlum 09 AaatlQ DVOOTJCBT. :..,^Aix-taiii8 Foraytli and Fennj< (( On tne 18th of Awwt natlyef^ were discovered on tl^e ice near to Cape Xotk, with whom it was deemed advisable to communicate. On this service, Lieutenant Gator, in Uie Intrepid, was detached on the part of Captain Austin, ana on my part Commander Fhillipg, witn our Esquimaux interpreter, in the whale-boat of the Felix. It was found by Lieutenant Cator that Cap- tain Penny had left with the natives a note for Captain Austin, but only relative to the state of the navigation; however, when Commander Phillips arrived, the llsqui- maux, seeing ouq apparently of their own nation in the whale-boat, came immediately to him, when a long conversation took place, the purport of which could not be made known, as the interpreter could not ex- plain himself to any one, either in the Intrepid or the whale-boat, (as he understands only the Banish besides his own language,) until he was brought on b^d the Prince Albert, where John Smith, the captai^ stew- ard of that vessel, who had been some years at the Hudson's Bay settlement of Churchill, and imderstands a little of the language, was able to give some expla- nation of Adam Beck's information, which was deemed of such importance that Captains Ommaney, Phillips, and Forsyth, proceeded in the Intrepid to the Hesolnte, when it was decided by Captain Austin to send for the Danish Interpreter of the Lady Franklin, which, hav- ing been unsuccessful in an attempt at getting through the ice to the westward, was only a few miles distant. In the meui time it was known that, in addition to the first information, a shipywhich could only be the North Star, had wintered in Wolstenholme Sound, called by the natives C*.ii,*inak, and had only lefl it a month ago. This, proved to be true, but the interpretation of the Dane was totallv at variance with the information given by the other, t^ho, although for obvious reasons he did not dare to contradict the Dane, subsequently main- tained the truth of his statement, which induced Cap- tain Austin to dispatch the Isirenid with Captains VOTAOB OF SIB JOIIM ROfiS IN THE FELIX, ETC. 828. '■J 9 Onmianey and PhiUipa, taking with them both onr in- terpreters, Adam Beek and a young native who had been persuaded to coma as one of the crew of the As- • fiistance, to examine Wolstenholme Sound. In th6 mean time it had been unanimously decided that no alteration should be made in our previous arrangement^ it being obvious that while there remained a chance oi saving the lives of those of the missing ships who may be yet alive, a further search for those who had per- ished should be postponed, and accordingly the Reso- lute, Pioneer, and Prince Albert parted company on the 16th. It is here unnecessary to give the omcial re- ports made to me by Commander Phillips, which are of course transmitted by me to the Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company, which, with the information written in the Esquimaux language by Adam Beek, will no doubt be sent to you for their Lordships' infor- mation : and it will be manifest by these reports that Comn|||ider Phillips has performed his duty with sa- gacity, circumspection, and address, which do him in- finite credit, altlibgh it is only such as I must have expected from so intelligent an, officer; and I have much satbfaction in adding that it has been mainly owing to his zeal and activity that I ^as able, under disaovantapt' is circumstances, to overtake her Majes- ty's ships, N^ -liie by his scientific acquirements and ac- curacy in Borveying, he has been aole to make many important corrections and valuable additions to the- charts of the much-frequented eastern side of Baffin's, Bay, which has been more closely observed and navi- gated by us than by any former expedition, and, much to my satisfaction, confirming the latitude and longi- tude of every headland I had an opportunity of laying down in the year 1818. . * "I have only to add that I have much satisfaction in co-operating with her Majesty's expedition.^ Witl|.^ such support and with such vessels so particularly adapted for the service, no exertion shall be wanting on my part. But I cannot conclude this letter without acknowledging my obligations to Commodore Austin N 984 PBOOBE88 OT AWmO OlSOOVUt ^im^\ and Oaptain Ommaney ibr the assiatance they have af ibrded me, and ibr the cordiality and conrtesy with ' which I have been treated by these distinguished offi- cers and others of the ships under their orders. Ani- mated as we are with an ardent and sincere desire to rescue our imperiled countrymen, I confidently trust ^afr'onr united exertions and humble endeavors may, inder a merciful Providence, be completely succeBsful. "I am, with truth and regard, Sir, your faithful and i>bedient servant, " John Ross, Captain, R. N." By the accounts brought home by Commander For- syth from Lancaster Sound, to the 25th of August, it is stated that Sir John Ross, in the Felix, intended to return to England. The ice was at that period very heavy, extending all around from Leopold Island, at the entrance o^^egent Inlet, to Cape- Farewell, to ^e westward, so enRb pre- vent the possibilit y of any of the ves^s pushing on to Cape Walker. When the Prince Arrort was between Cape Spencer and Cape Innes, in Wellington Channel, Hr. Snow went at noon to the mast-he \i, and saw H, M. Ship Assistance as near as possible within Cape Hotham, under a press of sail. Her tender, the In- trepid, was not seen, but was believed to be with her. Oaptain Penny, with his two ships, the Lady Franklin ana Sophia, was endeavoring to make his way up tho same Channel, but It was reared the ice would ulti- mately be too strong for him, and that he would have to return home, leavmg Captain Austin's squadron only to winter in the ice. The American man-of-war brig Rescue was close bo set with the ice near Cape Bowen. The Pioneer was with the Resolute on the 17tb w LADY FBAXKLIV'S APPEAL TO AMUUCAJI NATION. Stt. ixEUOAJS Sbabchiho "ExTEDmov. — llNnxD Statib' BhIFS, *^ AoVANCfB*' AKO ** RnCUB," UNDER THB OoM* HAND OF LnCTTENANT Dx HaTEN, 1850-51. In the spring of 1849, Lady Franklin made a touch ing and pathetic appeal to the feelings of the American oation, in the following letter to the President of the Republic: — The Lady of Sir John Franklin to the President ^Bedford-place^ London^ 4th Aprils 1849. "Sir, — I address myself to vou as the head of a great nation, whose power to help me I cannot doubt, and in whose disposition to do so I haye a confidence f^ich I trust you will not deem presumptuous. ^*The name of my husband. Sir John Franklin, is probably not unknown to you. It is intimately con- nected^jpith the northern part of that continent of which rae American republic forms so vast and con- spicuous a portioill "When I visited the United States three years ago, among the many proofe I received of respect and courtesy, there was none which touched and even surprised me more tl!lin the appreciation everywhere expressed to me of his former services in geogi'aphical discovery, and the interest felt in the en- terprise in which he was then known to be engaged." * » « « 4» y v.'4 • [Her ladyship here gives the details of the departure of the expedition, and the measures already taken for its relief.] # *. » « « "I have entered into these details with the view of proving that, though the British government has not lorgotten the duty it owes to the brave men whom it has sent on a perilous service, and has spent a^ very large sum in providing the means for their reecue, yet that, owing to various causes, the means actually ii^ operation for this purpose are quite inadequate to meet the extreme exigence of the c«6e; fil*, it mast h# 899 FBOOKI88 or ABCmO DnOOTXBT. remembered, that the misfting ebipi were yictu«led fov throe years only, and that nearly four years have now elapsed, so that the suryivors of so many winters in the ice must be at the last extremity. And also, it must be borne in mind, that the channels by which the ships may have attempted to force a passage to the westward, or which they may have been compelled, by adverse circumstances, to take, are very numerous and compli- cated, and that one or two ships cannot possibly, in the course of the next short summer, explore them all. ^^ The Board of Admiralty, under a conviction of this fact, has been induced to offer a reward of 20,000/. sterling to any ship or ships, of any country, or to any exploring party wnatever, which shall render efficient assistance to the missing ships, or their crews, or to any portion of them. This announcement, which, even if the sum had been doubled or trebled, would have met with public approbation, comes, however, too late for our whalers, which had unfortunately sailed llbfore it was issued, and which, even if the |^ws should over* take them at their fishing-grounds. He totally unfitted for any prolonged adventure, having only a few months' provision on board, tifid no additional clothing. To the American whalers, both in the Atlantic and Pacific, I look with more hope, as competitors for the prize, be- ing well aware of their numoers and strength, their thorough equipment, and the bold spirit of enterprise which animates their crews. But I venture to look even beyond these. I am not without hope that yon will deem it not unworthy of a great and kindred na- tion to take up the cause of humanity which I plead, in a national spirit, and thus generously make it your own. ^^ I must nore, in gratitude, adduce the example of the imperial Russian government, which, as I am led to hope by his Excellency, the Eussian embassador in London, who forwarded a memorial on the subject, will send out exploring parties this summer, from the Asiatic iide of Behrinff's Strait, northward, in search of the lost vessels, ft would be a noble spectacle to the werid, if threi^ great nations, possessed of ^e widest LADT fllANKUll's APPEAL TO AMBBIfiAW NATION. 827 umpires on the fu^e of the globe, were thus to unit* their efforts in the truly christian work of saving tbeii perishing fellow-men irom destruction. ^*It is not for me to suggest the mo4e in which such benevolent efforts might best be made. I will only say, however, that if the conceptions of my own mind, to which I do not venture to give utterance, were realized, and that in the noble competition which followed , Ame^ ican seamen had the good ibrtnne to wrest from us the §lory, as might be the case, of solving the problem of le unfound passage, or the still greater glory of savins our adventurous navigators from a lingering fate which the mind sickens to dwell on, though I should in either case regret that it was not my own brave countrymen in those aeas whose devotion was thus rewarded, yet should I rejoice that it was to America we owed our restored happiness, and should be forever bound to her by ties of iiiffectionate gratitude. ^^I am not without some misgivings while I thuf ad- dress you. The intense anxieties of a wife and of a daughter may hl^ve led me to press too earnestly on your notice the trials under which we are suffering, (yet not we only, but hundreds -of others,) and to pre- sume too much on the sympathy which we are assured is felt beyond the limits of our own land, let, if you deem this to be the case, you will still find, I am sure, even in that personal intensity of feeling, an excuse for the fearlessness with which I have thrown myself on your generosity, and will pardon the hoiu affe I thug pay to your own high character, and to thr of the people over whom you have the distinction i< preside. ^' I have, <&c., (Signed) ^'Janb Fsankldt.''. To which the following reply was received : — ' Mr, Cla/yton to Lady Jams M'anMin. ^''Department of State, Washington^ ''25th April, 1U9. "Madam, — ^Your letter to the President of the United States, dated April 4th, 1849, has been received by 328 ^» *' PROOKK88 OF AKOTIO DI8C0VEBT. Wli Ii!m, and ho has instrncted mo to make to you the ful* lowiiiff reply : — *' The appeal made in the letter with which you hare honored him, is'such as would strongly enlist the sym pathy of the rulers and the people of any portion of the civilized world. " To the citizens of the United States, who share a lar^ly in the emotions which agitate the public mind in your own country, the name of Sir John Franklin has been endeared by his heroic virtues, and the suffer- ings and sacrifices which he has encountered for the benefit of mankind. The appeal of his wife and daugh- ter, in their distress, has been borne across the waters, asking the assistance of a kindred people to save the brave men who embarked in this unfortunate expedi- tion ; and the people of the United States, who have ^ watched with the deepest interest that hazardous enter- prise, will now respond to that appeal, by the expression of their united wishes that every proper effort may be made by this government for the rescue of your hus- band and his companions. h^ " To accomplish the objects you have in view, the attention of American navigators, and especially of our whalers, will be immediately invoked. All the in- formation in the possession of this government, to enable them to aid in discovering the missing ships, relievinff their crews and restoring them to their fami- lies, shall be spread far and wide among our people; and all that the executive government of the united States, in the exercise of its constitutioual powers, can effect, to meet this requisition on American enterprise, skill and bravery, will be promptly undertaken. " The hearts of the American people will be deeply touched by your elo(][uent address to their Chief Magis- trate, and they will join with you in an earnest prayer to Him whose spirit is on the waters, that your husband and his companions may yet be restored to their coun- try aT>d their Mends. "I have, &c., - . (Signed) " Josn M. Cultton."^ LADY KUAMKLIM B A1>P£AL ¥0 AIISRICJLM NATION. 829 eir conn- •^ A Becond letter woh also addreBsqd by Lady Franklin to the PreBident in tho cIobo of that year, aflter the forced return of Captain Sir James lloss, trom whose active exortious so much had been expected -^ . The Lady of Sir John Franklin to the President, " Spring Gardens^ London^ IXth Dec, 1849. "Sir, — I had the honor of addressing myself to YOU, in the month of April last, in behalt of my hus- band, Sir John Franklin, his officers and crews, who were sent by Her Majesty's government, in the spring of 1845, on a maritime expedition for a discovery of tho northwest passage, and who have never since been heard of. ''Their mysterious fate has excited, I believe, the deepest interest throughout the civilized world, but no- where more so, not even in England itself, than in the United States of America. It was under a deep con- viction of this fact, and with the humble hope that an appeal to those ^neral sentiments would never be made aicogether m vain, that I ventured to lay before you the necessities of that critical period, and to ask yon to take up the cause of humanity which I pleaded, and c^enerously make it your own. ^^"How nobly you, sir, and the American people,' responded to that appeal, — how kindly and courteously that response was conveyed to me, — is known wherever our common language is spoken or understood ; and though difficulties, which were mainly owing to the advanced state of the season, presented themselves after your official announcement had been made known to our government, and prevented the immediate execution of your intentions, yet the generous pledge you had given was not altogether withdrawn, and hope still remained to me that, should the necessity for renewed measures continue to exist, I might look again across the waters .tor the needed succor. * " A period has now, alas, arrived, when our dearest hopes as to the safe return of the discovery ships this autumn are finally crushed by the unexpected, though 880 .*|t..i*"5 1»R0Q11K8S OP Anono DISOOVBRT. i*/' !brced return of Sir/Jiime8 Ross, without any tidings of them, and also by the close of the arctic season. And not only have no tidings been brought of their safety or of their fate, but even the very traces of their course have yet to be discovered ; for such was the concur- rence of unfortunate and unusutd circumstances attend- ing the efforts of the brave and able officer alluded to, that he was not able to reach those points where indi- cations of the course of discovery ships would most probably be found. And thus, at the close of a second eeason since the departure of the recent expedition of search, we remain in nearly the same state ot ignoranco respecting the missing expedition as at the moment of its starting from our shores. And in the mean time our brave countrymen, whether clinging still to their ships, or dispersed m various directions, have entered upon a fifth winter in those dark and dreary solitudes, with ^ exhausted means of sustenance, while yet their expected succor comes not I '^ It is in the time, then, of their greatest peril, in the day of their extremest need, that I venture, encouraged by your former kindness, to look to you again for some active efforts which may come in aid of those of my own country, and add to the means of search. Her Majesty's Ministers have alreadv resolved on sending an expedition to Behring's Strait, and doubtless have other neoessary measures in contemplation, supported as they are, in every means that can oe devised for this humane purpose, by the sympathies of the nation, and by the ffenerous solicitude which our Queen is known to feel m the fate of her brave people imperiled in their coimtrv's service. But, whatever oe the measures con- terapUced by the Admiralty, they cannot be such as will leave no room or necessity for more, since it is onl v by the multiplication of means, and those vigorous and instant ones, that we can hope, at this last stage, and in this last hour, perhaps, of the lost navigators' existence, to snatch them from a dreary grave. And surely, till the shores and seas of those frozen regionf have been swept in all directions, or until some memo- LIKUTENANT 0^ OKN'B BU0QE8TI0NS. 881 rial be found to attest their fate, neither England, who Bent them out, nor even America, on whose shores they have been launched in a cause which has interested the world for cenliiHleB, will deem the question at rest. " May it please God so to move the hearts and wills of a great and kindred people, and of their chosen Chief Magistrate, that they may join heart and hand in the generous enterprise I The respect and admiration of the world, which watches with growing interest every niovement of your great republic, will toUow the chiv- alric and humane endeavor, and the blessing of them who were ready to perish shall come to you 1 " I have, &c., (Signed) . Jahe Fbanklin. "ZTw Excellency the President of the United States.^* In a very admirable letter addressed to Lady Frank- lin in February, 1860, by Lieut. Sherard Osbom, R. N., occur the following remarks and 8u^gesti6ns, which appear to me so explicit and valuable that I publish them entire: — ^^ Great EaUng^ Middlesex, 6th Eehncary, 1860. " My Deas Lady P'banklin. — It is of course of vital importance that the generous co-operation of the Ameri- cans in the rescue ot Sir John Franklin and his crews be directed to points which call for search, and at the same time give them a clear field for the exercise of their energy and emulation. It would be a pity, for instance, if they should be merely working on the same ground with ourselves, while extensive portions of the Arctic Sea, in which it is equally probaole the lost ex- pedition may be found, should be left unexamined ; and none, in my opinion, offers a better prospect of success- ful search than the coasts of Eepulse Bay, Hecla and Furv Strait, Committee Bay, Felix Harbor, the estuary of the Great Fish River, ind Simpson's Strait, with the sea to the nordiwest of it. My reasons for saying so are as follows ; -— 882 •i' PBOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISOOVBRY. > ♦* Suppose Sir John Franklin to hare so far carried out the tenor of his orders as to have penetrated south' west from Cape "Walker, and to have J^n either ' cast away,' or hopelessly impeded by ice, mA that either in the past or present year he found it necessary to quit ■his ships, they being anywhere between 100** and 108° west longitude, and 70° and 73° north latitude. Now, to retrace his steps to Cape Walker, and thence to Re- gent Inlet, would be no doubt the first suggestion that would arise. Yet there are objections to it : firstly, he would have to contend against the prevailing set of the ice, and currents, and northerly wind ; secondly, if no whalers were found in Lancaster Sound, how was he to support his large party in regions where the musk ox or reindeer is never seen ? thirdly, leaving his ships in the summer, he knew he could only reach the whaling ground in the fall of the year ; and, in siica case, would it not be advisable to make rather tor the southern than the northern limit of the seas vis- ited by the whalers ? fourthly, by edging to the south rather than the north, Sir John FranBin would be falling back to, rather than going from, relief, and in- crease the probabilities of providmg food for his large party. " 1 do not believe he would have decided on going due south, becanse the lofty land of Victoria Island was in his road, and when he did reach the American shore, he would only attain a desert, of whose horrors he ro doubt retained a vivid recollection ;* and a lengthy land journey of more than 1000 miles to the Hudson's Bay settlements was more than his men were capable of. " There remains, therefore, but one route for Sir John *1ittder such circumstances to follow ; and it decidedly has the following merits, that of being in a direct line for the southern limit of the whale fishery ; that of leading through a series of narrow seas adapted for the navigation oi small open boats ; that of being the most expisditious route by which to reach Fort Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; that of leading through a region visited UKt'T£NA»T OfiUOJiiN ft SUQOISSTIOKS. 888 by Esquimaux and migratory animals ; and this route is through tm ^ Strait of Sir James Boss,' across the narrow isthmus of Boothia Felix, (which, as you re- minded me to-<|M|^, was not supposea to exist when Sir John Franklin Wt England, and has been since disoov ' ered,) into the Gulf of Boothia, whe?e he could either pass oy Hecla and Fury Strait into the fishing-ground of Hudson's Strait, or else ^o southward down Conunit- tee Bay, across the Bae Isthmus into Bepulse Bay, and endeavor from there to reach some vessels in Hudson's JBay, or otherwise Fort Churchill. '^ It is not unlikely either, that when Franklin had got to the eastern extremity of James Boss's Strait, and found the land to be across his path where he had expected to find a strait, that his party might have 41- viaed, and the more active portion of iheia attempted to ascend the Great Fish Biver, where we have Sir George Back's authority for supposing they would find, close to the arctic shores, abundance of food in fish, and herds of reindeer, <&c., while the others traveled on the road I have already mentioned. " To search for them, therefore, on this line of retreat, I should think highly essential, and if neglected this year, it must be done next ; and if not done by the Americans, it ought to be done by us. " I therefore suggest the following plan: — Suppose a well-equipped expedition to leave America in May, and to enter Hudson's Strait, and then divide into two divisions. The first division mi^ht go northward, through Fox's Channel to Hecla and Fury Strait, exam ine the shores oi the latter care^ly, deposit provisions at the western extreme, erect conspicuous beacons, and proceed to Melville or Felix Harbor, in Boothia, secure tbcir vessel or yessels, and dispatch, as soon as circum^ stances would allow, boat parties across the neck of the isthmus into the western waters. Here let them divide, and one party proceed through James Boss's Strait, carefully examimng the coast, and push over sea^ ice, or land, to the northwest as far as possible. The Other boat party to examine the estuary of 1^ Greai # 834 PBOORESe OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. Fish River, and thencs proceed westward along the coast of Simpson's Strait, and, if possiblfe^ examine the broad bay formed between it and Dease's Strait. "The second division, on partin^fbmpany, mighi pass south of Southampton Island, anacoast along from Chesterfield Inlet northward to Repulse Bay, a boat party with two boats might cross Rae Isthmus into the bottom of Committee Bay, with instructions to visit both shores of the said bay, and to rendezvous at the western entrance of Hecla and Fury Strait. The sec- ond division (be it one or more vessels) should then pass into Fox's Channel, and turning through Hecla and Fury Strait, pick up the boats at the rendezvous ; and thence, if the first division have passed on all right, and do not require reinforcement, the second division should steer northward along the unknown coast, ex- tending as far as Cape Kater ; from Cape Kater pro- ceed to Leopold Island, and having secured their snips there, dispatch boat or traveling parties in a direction southwest from Cape Rennell, in North Somerset, be- ing in a parallel line to the line of search we shall adopt from Cape Walker, and at the same time it will traverse the unknown sea beyond the Islands lately observed by Captain Sir James Ross. ■ "Some such plan as this would, I think, insuie yom gallant husband being met or assisted, should he be to tiie south or the west of Cape "Walker, and attempt to return by a southeast course, a direction which, I think, others as well as myself would agree in thinking a very rational and probable one. "I will next speak of an argument which has been brought forward in consequence of no traces of the missing expedition having been discovered in Lancas- ter Sound ; that it is quite possible, if Franklin failed in getting through the middle ice from Melville Bay to Lancaster Sound, that, sooner than disappoint public anxiet}' and expectation of a profitable result arising from his expedition, he may have turned northward, and gone up Smith's Sound ; every mile beyond its en« ^panod was new ground, and thei^efope a reward to th* I#^ .#*l»^ DEBATE IN COKGSEai^ t'^+S 885 discoverer. It likewise brought them nearer the pole, and may be the}*^ found that open sea of which Baron Wrangel 8peakaj|0 constantly m his journeys over the ico northward frem Siberia. ^^It is therefore desirable that some vessels should carefully examine the entrance of this, sound, and visit all the conspicuous headlands for some considerable distance within it ; for it ought to be borne in mind, that localities perfectly accessible for the purpose of erecting beaoons, &c., one season, may be quite im- practicable the next, and Franklin, late in the season and pressed for time, would not have wasted time, scal- ing bergs to reach the shore and pile up cairns,^' of which, in all the sanguine hope of success, ne could not have foreseen the necessity. " Should any clue be found to the lost expedition in this direction, to follow it up would, of course, be the duty of the relieving party, and every thing would de- pend necessarily upon the judarmentof the commanders. ^4n connection with this Tine of search, I think & small division of vessels, starting from Spitzbergen, and pushing from it in a northwest direction, might be of great service ; for on reference to the chart, it will be Been that Spitzbergen is as near the probable position of Franklin (if he went north about,) on the east, as Behring's Strait is upon the west ; and the probability of reaching the meridian of 80° west from Spitzbergen is equally as good as, if not better than, Behring's Strait, and, moreover, a country capable of supporting life always in the rear to fall b^ck upon. ** Sherabd OsRQBir, "Lieutenant Royal Navy. "To Lady Franklin.^' Debate or thb Amsbioan Conobess. The following remarks of honorable members and senators, in defense of the bill for carrying out Mr. GrinnelPs expedition, will explain the grounds on 'v^hich the government countenance was invoked for the noblo undertaking: — V- ■■« lSKTOR"5«"'V-«^ . 886 PKOOKKSS OF ABCriO DISCOVERY. f "Mr. MiLLEB : I prefer that the government should liave the entire control of this enterprise ; but, Sir, I do not think that can be accomplished ; at all events, it cannot within the time required tof^roduce the good results which are to be hoped from this expedition. It is well known to all that the uncertain fate of Sir John Franklin and his companions has attracted the attention and called forth the sympathies of the civilized world. Ttns government, Sir, has been indifferent to the call. An application, an appeal was made to tjiis government of no ordinary character; one which was cheerfuUji entertained by the President, and which he was anxioui sl|Ould be complied with. But it is known to the coun tr;^ and to the Senate that, although the President had every disposition to send out an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, it was found upon inquiry that we had no. ships fitted for the occasion, and thdt the Executive had no authority to procure them for an ex- pedition of this kind, and suitable for this sort of navi- gation. The Executive was therefore obliged, for want of authority to build the ships, to forego further action on this noble enterprise, until Congress should meet, and authorize the expedition. "In the mean time, Mr. Grinnell, one of the mo8t respectable and worthy merchants of the city of New York, understanding the difficulty that the government had in fitting out the expedition, has gone to work, and with his own means has built t^o small vessels espe- cially prepared for the expedition ; and he now most generously tenders them to the government, not to be under his own control, but the control of the govern- ment, and to be ma.de part of the navy of the United States. The honorable senator from Alabama (Mr. King) is mistaken with regard to the terms and effect of this resolution. This resolution places these two ships under the control of the government, as mnch so as if they were built expressly for the navy of the United States. Their direction, their fitting out, theii officers and m^^n, are all to be under the control of the Executive. Their o "ficers are to be officers of onf m my rt^T. UKBATK IN CONOBHSB. *»'! 387 navy — their seamen the seamen of our navy — so tbat the expedition will be as thoroughly under the control of this government as if the ships belonged to us. Now, Sir, I should have no objecti'^-': myself to amend this resolution so as to authorize ine purchase of these two small vessels at once, and make them a pai't of our ni> val establishment ; but, when I recollect the magnani- mous feeling which urged this noble-hearted merchant to prepare these ships, I know that that same feeling would forbid him to make merchandise of that which be has devoted to humanity. He offers them for this great cause ; they are his property, prepared for this enterprise, and he offers them to ns to be used by the government in this great undertaking. We must either accept them for the purpose to which he has dedicated tbein, or reject them altogether. If we refuse these ships, we will defeat the whole enterprise, and lose all opportunity of participation in a work of humanity which now commands the attention of the world. " If we refer this resolution back to the committee, aud they report a^^l authorizing government to build ships to carry on the expedition on its OW71 account, it would be attended with very great delay, and, in my opinion defeat the object we have in vieW. In a case of this kind time is every thing. It must be done speed- ily, if done at aU. Every hour's delay may be worth the life of a man. Sir John Franklin and his compan- ions may ere this have perished, but our hope is that they are still living in some narrow sea, imprisoned by walls of ice, where our succor may jet reach them. But, Sir, whether our hopes are fitllacious or not, the public feeling — the feeling of humanity — is, that thfe late of Sir John Franklin should, if possible, be ascer- tained, and as soon as possible^ The public mind will never be satisfied till an expedition from this country, or from some other country, shall have ascertained their fate. I therefore trust that this resolution, as it is, will be acted upon at once, and that it will receive tho tmauimous vote of the Senate. ^^ ^* * * t t^s* s :>% ^I am so impressed Mr. President, with the impor" a88 PU0OBK88 OF AUCIIO DIdCOVEKT. tanco of time as regards the disposal of this qoestion, that I hesitate even to occupy the attention of tho Senate for a few moments ; and I only do so for the purpose of correcting some views which have been ex- pressed by the senator from Mississippi. * * * The question is, whether we shall adopt this resolution, and immediately send forth this expedition for the purpose of accomplishing this ^reat object, or whether we shall throw back this resolution to drag its slow course through Congress, in the form of another bill, to make an appropriation for the purpose of building vcseeU. For wnat object? To secure, as tho senator says, to the United States, the sole honor and glory of this expedi- tion. Sir, if this expedition is got up merely for honor and glory either to the United States or to an individual, I will have nothing whatever to do with it. Sii, there is a deeper and a higher sentiment that has induced the action of Congress on this subject. It is to engage in a great work of humanity, to do that which is not only being done by the government of England, but by pri- vate individuals, who are fitting out#xpeditions at their own expense, and sending them to the northern seas, for the purpose of discovering the fate of this great man, who a&d periled his life m the cause of science and of commerce. " Mr President, I have been informed that a private expedition is now being fitted out in England under the direction of that great commander, or I may call him the king of the Polar Seas, Sir John Boss, who is going again to devote himself and his life to this perilous ex- pedition. Sir, altogether I have not had heretofore much confidence in the success of this expedition, yet when I consider the reputation of Sir John Eoss, and the fact that he is better acquainted with those seas than any other man living, and understanding that he entertains the belief that Sir John Franklin and hi? companions are yet alive, and may be rescued, — I say, finding such a man as Sir John Koss engaged in an ex- pedition of this kind, I am not without nope that our ftfforts may, under Providence, be crowned with success. DKBATE IN CONOREBB. SI 839 But tho honorable senator sajs that nothing is likely to be derived from thie expedition but honor and glory, and that that is to be divided between the government of the United States and a private individual. Sir, is there nothing to be derived from the performance of an act of humanity but honor and glory ? Sir, it is said that in this instance both the {government and- the indi yidual alluded to are engaged m the same work. Well Sir, what objection can there be to that connection Does the honorable senator from Mississippi envy the individual his share of the honor and glory ? Does he desire to monopolize it all to the United States ? I hope he has no such feeling as that. ^' But, Mr. President, the honorable senator made use of an expression which I think he will withdraw. He intimated, if I understood him rightly, some suspicion that this was a matter of speculation on the part of Mr. Grinnell. - ^Mr. Foote: I said I had heard such a thing sug ' gested ; but I do not make any such charge myself. " Mr. M XLEB : I bave heard this urged as an objec- tion heretoibre, bllt I am satisfied that if the senator from Mississippi knew the character and the history of iMs gentleman, he would not even repeat that he bad heard such an insinuation. Sir, altnough this is a liberal donation from an individual, the sum need not alarm gentlemen about after claims. These ships are but small ships ; and it is necessary that they should be small in order that they may be ef^ctive. One of them is, I understand, 150 tons, and the other 90 tons. They hav^e cost, I believe, 30,000 dollars. Now, when we find this merchant devoting his property, not for the purpose of building ships to convey merchandise to the markets of the woSld ; when we find him retiring from the ordinary course of commercial pursuit in which all tho world IS engaged, and devoting a portion of his fortune to the building of ships that can be used for no other purpose but in this voyage of humanity, can it be imagined that any thought ot speculation on his }>art could have influenced his conduct? No, Sir. On the m 840 PBOOOSBS OV AHOTIO DI800VKBY. contrary, it is a high and worthy motive ; and I think it ought to receive the ai)probation of this and all otber intelugent Christian nations, to see a merchant, who, ^hile the commercial world are encompassing the globe bv sea and land in quest of ])rofit ana of gold, is edicatm^ himself to his great obiect, and devoting n part of his fortune to the cause of humanity, and otfer- ing to government, not as a bounty, but because the government, with all its means, has not the power and tiie time to prepare vessels to do this work. That, Sir, is the object. " Now, if we do not accept these ships, there will be an end of this expedition. Sir, shall it be said, that this government has lost such an opportunitv as this of exhibiting the deep interest which our people feel both in the cause of science and humanity, and that, too, at % the very time when we are entering into treaties and com- pacts with all the commercial nations of the world, for . the purpose of extending commerce and civilizatioD, and opening communications of ti ade from sea to seal When the government is not only doing all by its own power, but also acting in concert wUh our pnvate citi- zens in constructing rail-roads and canals, and by vari- ous other modes extending commercial civilization throughout the world, shall it be said that we, at this moment, refused, through th^ fear of losing a little honor and glory and national dignity, to accept two ships — the only two ships in America that can do the work — in the accomplishment of this great enterprise? I hope not. Let us not, then, cavil and waste time about these little matters. If the work is to be done at all it must be done now, and done, as I conceive, by the adoption of this resolution. QovERNOE Sewabd spoko as follows in the Senate on the same subject : — "I am happy to perceive, Mr. President, indications all around the chamber that there is no^ disagreement in regard to the importance, or in relation to the propriety, of a search on the part of this nation, by the government itself, or by individual citi- zens, for the lost and heroic navigator. Since so much CKllATB IN QONOiUCM. 841 fg conceded, and einoe I come fVom the State whence this propofiitlon emanates, I desire to notice, in a very few words, the objections raised against the mode of carrying tne proposed design into eifect. It is always the case, I thmk, when great objects and great enter- prises which are feasible are hindered or defeated, that they are hindered or defeated, not so much by want of agreement concerning the measures themselvee, as by diversity of opinion concerning the mode of carrying them into execution. Since this is so generally the case, the rule which I always adopt, and which seems to be a safe one, is, that where I cannot have my own way of obtaining a great public object, I will accept the best other way which opens before me. Now, I cordially agree with those honorable Senators who would have preferred that at some appropriate time, aud in some proper and unobjectionable manner, the government should have moved for the attainment of this object, as a government, and have made it exclu- sTvely the act of the nation. And I would have pre- ferred this, not so much on account of the glory that it is supposed would have followed it, as because of tlie beneficence of the enterprise. Enterprises which spring from a desice of glory are very apt to end in disappointment. True national glory is always safely attained by prosecuting beneficent designs, whatever may be their success. I say. Sir, then, that I would have preferred the alternative suggested; but the fact is, without stopping to inquire where the fault lies, or whether there be fault at all, the government has not moved, and the reason which has been assigned is, I have no doubt, the true one. I do not know that it has ever been contradicted or called in question ; that reason is, that the Navy of the United States contains no vessels adapted to the enterprise, but consists of ships constructed and fitted for very different objects ana purposes than an exploring expedition amid the ice-bound seas oi the arctic pole. Our naval marine consists of vessels adapted to the purposes of convoys, military armament, and the suppression of the slave* #■ a4S PROOBSSS OF AlUJTIO DMOOVBBT. trade on the coast of Africa. The execndve portions of the government failed for want of ressels suitable to be employed in this particular service. It therefore devolved upon the Legislatuia of the United States. But, although we have been here now nearly ^ve months, no Committee of either House, no member of either House of Congress has proposed to equip a na- tional fleet for this purpose. While this fact exists on one side, it is to be remarked on the other, that the time has arrived in which the movement must be made if it is to be made at all, and also that a careful inves- tigation, made by soientiiio and practical men, has re- vived the hope in £urope and America that the humane object can bo mttained. There can, then, be no delay allowed for considering whether the manner for carry- ing the design into efiSct could not be changed. Let ns, then, practically survey the case as it comes before ns. The government of the United States has really no vessels adapted to the purpose. To say nothing of the expense, tne government has not time to provide, prepare, or equip vessels for the expedition. Under auch circumstances, a citizen of the United States tendera to the government vessels of his own, precisely adequate in number, and exactly fitted in construction and equipment, ibr the performance of the duty to be assumed. Since he oflers them to the government, what reason can we assign for refusing them? Ko reason can be assigned, except that he is too generous. and offers to gioe us the use of the vessels instead ot demanding compensation for it. Well, Sir, if we do accept them it can be immediately carried into execu- tion, with a cheering prospect of attaining the great object which the United States and the civilized world have such deep interest in securing. Then the ques- tion resolves itself into this — the question raised by the honorable Senator from Alabama (Mr. King)^ whether, in seeking so beneficent an object, it is con- sistent with the dignity of the nation to combine indi- vidual action with a national enterprise. I do not ^ink, Mr. President, that that honorable Senator will * I ^ ■ ^jji^ OKUATK IN COMOBEM. 848 Bnd himsolf obliged to insist upon this objection after; he ehall have carefully examined the bill before us He will find that it converts the undertaking into a national enterprise. The vessels are to be accepted not as individiial property, but as national vessels. They will absolutely cease to be under the direction, management, or control of the owners, and will become at once national ships, and for the time, at least, and for all the purposes of the expedition, a part of the national marine. ^Now, Sir, have we not postal arrangements with various foreign countries earned into effect in the same way, and is tne dignity of the nation compromised by thorn ? During the war with Mexico, the government continually hired ships and steamboats from citizens foi military operations. Is the glor v of that war tarnished uy the use of those means ? The government in this case, as in those cases, is in no sense a partner. It assumes the whole control of the vessels, and the enter- prise becomes a national one. The only . circumstance remaining to be considered is, whether the government can accept the loan of the service of the vessels without making compensation. I^ow, Sir, I should not have had the least objection, and, indeed, it would have been more agreeable to me if the government could have made an arrangement to have paid a compensation. But I hold it to be quite unnecessary in the present case because the character of the person who tenders these vessels, and the circumstances and manner of the whole transaction, show that it is not a speculation.^ No compensation is wanted. It would only be a cere- mony on the part of the government to oflrer it, and a ceremony on the part of the merchant to decline it. I am, therefore, wilting to march directly to the object, and to assume that these ceremonies have been duly performed, that the government has offered to pay, and the noble-spirited merchant declined to receive. " Now, tncn, is there any thing derogatory from the dignity and independence of this nation in employing theveasels? Certainly not, since that employment ■I: rm^^ ^m' PK()GKEfl6 OF ABCTIC DISCOVERY. indispensable. If it were not indi8i)6n8ab1e I do not tbink that the dignity of the Republic wonld bo im- paired ; I think, on the contrary, tliat it would bo en- hanced and elevated. It is a transaction worthy of tlio nation, a spectade deserving the contemplation and respect of mankind, to see that not oilly docs tlio nation prosecute, bht that it has citizens able. and willing to contribute, voluntarily and witboiit compulsion, to an enterprise so interesting to the cause of science and of humanity. It is indeed a new and distinct cause for nalional pride, that an individual citizen, not a merchant ptittce, as he would be called in some other countries, but a republicati merchant, comes forward in tbis way and moves the govemjnent and co-operates with it. It illustrates the magnanimity of the nation and of the citizen. Sir, there is nothing objectionable in this '| fea- ture of the "bransaction. It results from the character of the government, which is essentially popular, that there ai*e perpetual debates on the question how fer measures and enterprises, for the purposes of humanity and science, are consistent with the constitiitional or- ganization of the government, althouffh they are ad- mitted to be eminently compatible with the dignity, character, and intelligence of the nation. All our en- terprises, more or less, are carried into execution, if thev are carried into execution at all, not by the direct action of the government, but by the lending of its favor, countenance, and aid to individuals, to corpora tions, and to States. Thus it is. that we construct rail- roads and canals, and found colleges and univci'sities. " Nor is this mode of prosfecuting enterprises of great pith and moment peculiar to this government. There was a navigator who went forth fi*oma port in Spain, some three or four hundred years ago, on an enterprise quite as doubtful and quite as perilous as this. After trying unsuccessfully several States, ho was forced to bo content with the sanction, and little more than the sanc- tion and patronage of tlic Court of Madrid. The scanty ti^»asnres devotea to tl|at undertaking were the private confrib'itions of a Queen and her subjects, and ilio vca- BEBATK IN CONGKEBS. ""^^ 945 Bols >vcrc iHted out and manned at tltc cx|)cn8o of mop- cliiints and citixcns, which gave a -now world to tlio kingdom of Castilo and Leon. . ** Entoi'taining those views now, wliatcvcr my opinion might have been nnder other cirenmstanccs, I sliall vote against a recommittal, and in favor of the bill, as the snrest way of preventing its defeat, and of attaining the sublime and beneficent object which it contemplates." The committee of both Houses of Congress, to whom Mr. GrinnblPs petition for men and supplies was re- ferred, made a unanimous report in favor ; and the vessels left on their daring and generous errand. Tlie following are the joint resolutions which passed both Houses ot Congress and were approved by Gen- eral Taylor, authorizing the President of the United States to accept and attach to the U. S. Kavy the two vessels, offered by Mr. Grinnell, to be sent to the arctic Bca«! ^" search of Sir John Franklin and his companions: K -^h'cd by the Senate and House' of Represent- ative, t .he United States of America in Congress assemuicu, That the President be, and he is hereby authorized and directed, to receive from Hei>ry Grinnell, of the city of New York, the two vessela preijared by him for an expedition in search of Sir Jonn Franklin and his companions, aitd to detail from the Navy such commissioned and warrant officers, and so many sea- men as may be necessary for said expedition, and wlio may *W willing to engage therein. The said ofHcci'S ana men shall be furnished with suitable rations, at the discretion of the President, for a period not exceeding three years, and shall have the use of such necessary instmments as aro now on hand and can be spared jft'om the Navy, to be accounted for or returned by tJie offi- cers who shall receive the same. J' Sec. 2. Bo it further resolved, Tliat the said vessels, ofiicers, and men shall bo in all respects under the laws and regulations of the Navy of tlie United States until their return, Avlien the said vessels shall be delivered to the said Henry Grinnejl : Provided^ ThaUhe United States sbalj not be liable to any claim for compensation ::si*-^. ■5^-' aid PBOORKSB OF ▲BCTiO lAaOOVKRY, in case of the loss, damage or deterioration of the said veeeels, or either of them, from any cause or in any manner whatever, nor be liable to any demand for the use or risk of the said vessels or either of them." Directly the fact became known that the American government had nobly come forward to aid in the searcli whidi was being so strenuously^ made, the different learned societies of the metropolis vied with each other in testifying the estimation in which this noble conduct was held. J" At the annual meeting of the Boyal Society, on the 7th of June, upon the motion of Sir Charles Lennox, seconded by the late Marquis of Northampton, a vote of thanks was carried with the utmost enthusiasm, ex- pressive of the gratitude of the Society to the American government, and of their deep sense of the kin4 and brotherly feeling which had prompted so liberal in act of humanity. A similar vote was carried, on the 11th of June, at a general meeting of the Boyal Geograph- ical Society, (of which Sir J^n Franklin Ti^as long one of the vice-presidents.) The American expedition consists of two brigantines — now enrolled in tne United States Navy — the Ad- vance, of 144 tons, and the Eescue, 91 tons. These vessels have been provided and fitted out by the gener- ous munificence of Mr. Heniy Grinnell, a merchant of New York, at an expense to him of between 6000/. and 6000^. The American government also did mi^cl^ to- Irard fitting and equipping them. The Advance was two years old, and the Kescue quite new. Both vessels were strengthened in every part, and put in the most complete order for the service in which they were to be engaged. They are under the command of Lieutenant Edward S. De Haven, who was employed in Com- mander Wilkes' expedition in 1843 ; Mr. S. P. Griffin. acting master, has charge of the Bescuc., The other officers of the expedition are Messrs, W. H. Murdaiigh, acting-master ; T. W. Broadhead, and E. B. Carter, passS midshipmen ; Dr. E. K. Kane, passed assistant- rai^j^n ; Mr. l^njamin Finland, assistant^surgcon ; W \ i XBS AMKfilCAN JECXPETrnOK. 347 S. Lovell) midshipman ; H. Brooks, boatswain ; and a complement of tnirty-six seamen in the two yessols — thfl crew of the Advance consisting of fifteen menjiind tlu) Kescne thirteen men. The vessels loft New York on the 26th of May, 1850. Their proposed destination ii through Barrow's Strait, westward to Cape Walker, and roimd Melville Island. They were provisioned for tliree years. Whatever mav be the result of this expedition, as connected firith toe fate of the ffallant Sir ti ohn Frank- lin, it is one which reflects the highest honor upon the philanthropic individual who projected it, and upon the officera and men engaged therein. A dispatch has been received from Lieutenant De Haven, datod off Leopold Island, August 22d, which reports the progress .of the expedflmi thus far. The Advance, in company with her consort, the Bescue, sailed from the Whale Fish Islands on the 29th of June; after many delays au^bstructions from calms, stream ice, and the main pack, they forced a passage through it for a considerable distance, but at last got wedged up in the pack immovably until the 29th of Jidy, when bj a sudden movement of the floes, an opening pre- sented itself, and under a press of sail the vessels forced their way into clear water. They encountered a heavy sale, wmch, with a thick fog, made their situation very daneerous, the huge masses of ice being driven along by Ute strength of the wind and current with great fiuy. By the aid of warping in calm weather, thejr reached Gape Yorke on the 15th of August, and a little to the eastward met with two Esq^uimaux, but could not nnderstand much from them. Between Cape Yorke and Cape Dudley Biggs, while delayed by cauns, being in open water, they hauled the ships into the shore at the Crimson Cliffi of Beverley, (so named from the red snow on them,) and filled their water casks from a mountain stream. On the 18th, with a fair wind, they shaped their course for the western side of Baflin's Bay, and met the padc in 8treainii8.and rery loofee, which ther cleartid entii^lj by 848 PBOOBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. tfce following day — getting into the north Waters, where they fell in with Captain Penny's two vessels, which having been nnsuccessful in their efforts to enter Jones' Sound^ were now taking the same course np Lancaster Sonnd. On the 19th, ii]^ a violent gale, the Advance parted coippany with the Jpescne. On the morning oi the 21st of August, the fog cleared, and Lieutenant Do Haven found he was off Cape Crawford, on the south em shore of the Sound. Here he fell in with the Felix schooner, under Captain Sir John Ross, froiA whom he learned that Commodore Austin was at Pond's Bay with two of his vessels, seeking for information, while the other two had been dispatched to examine the north shore of the Soundi. Lieutenant De Haven proposed proceeding on frojoiPort Leopold to Wellington Chan- nel, the appointcdplace of rendezvous with his c(^nsort. Captain Forsyth's IlEMARS|||itE Yoyaoe m the "Prince Aijjert." In April, 1850, a branch expedition to aid those ves- sels sent out by the government was determined on by Lady Franklin, who contributed largely toward its out- fit ; a considerable sum being also raised by public subscription. The expenses of this expedition were nearlv 4000?., of which 2500?. were contributed by Lady Franklin herself. The object of this expedition was the providing for the searcn of a portion of the Arctic Sea, which it was distinctly understood could not be executed by the vessels under Captain Austin ; but the importance of which had been set forth, by arctic and other authorities, in documents printed in the Parlia- mentary Papers. The unprovided portion alluded to, includes Regent Inllet. and the passages connecting it with the western 8^ James Boss's Strait, and other localities, S. W. of Cape Walker, to which quarter Sir John Franklin was rfiqiUFed by his instructions to proceed in the first in- smpe. This search is assumed to be necessary on tlie i^<^wit)g grounds : —r a- - irOYAGE OF THIi. PRIVCE ALBERT. 849 1^ The probability of Sir John Franklin having Abandoned his vessels to the S. W. of Gape Walker. 2. The fiMst that, in his charts, an open passage is laid down from the west into the sonth part of Begent Inlet. 3. Sir John Franklin would be more likely to take this conrse thronsh a country known to possess the re- Bources of animal life, with the wreck of the Victory in Felix Harbor for fuel, and the stores of Fnry Beach farther north in view, th« - to'fall upon an utterly barren region of the non* ',o«,> -f America. 1. He would be more iikely to expect succor to be sent to him by way of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, into which Begent Inlet opens, than in any other direction. ^ In corroboration of the necessity of this part of the search, I would refer generally to the Parliamentary papers of 1848-9 and 50. As an individual opinion,! may quote the words of Captain Beechey, p. 31 of the first series. "'If, in this condition," (that of being hopelessly blocked up to the S. "W". of Gape Walker^ " which r trust may not be the case, Sir John Franklin should resolve upon taking to his boats, he would prefer attempting a boat nav?gation through Sir James Boss's Strait, and up Begent Inlet, to a long land journey across the continent to the Hudson Bay Settlements, to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly unequal." And again, in his letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty, 7th of February, 1850, Captain Beechey writes, ****** the bottom of Begent Inlet, ahout the Felly Islands, should not be left unexamined, [n the memorandum submitted to their Lordships, 17th of January^ 1849, this quarter was considered of im- portance, and I am still of opinion that had Sir John Franklin abandoned his vessels near the coast of America, and much short of the Mackenzie Biver, he would have preferred the probability of retaining the use of his boats until he found relief in Barrow's Strait, to risking an overland journey ma the before-men- tioned riv^r ; and it must be remembered that at the *■ "i!^' HO PBOGJtSlBS or ABCnO DIfiOaVBBT. time he sailed, Sir Georce Back's discoverjr had ren dered it Tery probable that Boothia was an island. The memorandum allndod to by Oaptain Beechev as havinir been submitted to the Lords of the Admt ralty on the 17th of January, 1849, was, the expression of the unanimous opinion of the arctic officers assem- bled by command ot the Admiralty to deliberate upoa the best means to be taken for the relief of the missing expedition ; and in this report, clause 14 is expressly devoted to the recommendation of the search of llegent Inlet. The necessity for the proposed search may be thus further developed. Sir John Franklin may have aban- doned his ships, when liis provisions were nearly ex- hausted somewhere about the latitude of 73° N., long. 105" W. ; in short, at any point S. W. of Cape Wfilker, not farther "W". than long. 110°. And in such 'case, rather than return north, (which might be indeed im- practicable) or moving south up^ the American Con- tinent, of which (upon the coast,) the utter barrenness was already well known to hira, lie mig^ht prefer a southeastern course, with a view of passing in his boats, either through James Boss's, or through Simpson's Straits, into tne Gulf of Boothia, and so up into Kegent Inlet to the house and stores left at Fury ]Beacb, the only depot of provisions known to him. The advantages of such a course might appear to him very great. 1. Two open passages being laid down in his charts into Eegent Inlet, by James Boss's Strait, and by Simp* son's Strait, a means of boat transport for his party would be afforded, of which alone perhaps their ex- hausted strength and resources might admit; such a course would obviously recommend itself to a com- niander who had experienced the frightful difficulties of a land journey in tliose regions. 2. The proposed course would lead through a part, the Isthmus of Boothia, in which animal life is known at some seasons to abound. 3. The Esquimaux who have been found on tho Is^mus o^ Boothia are extremely well disposed and ■H VOYAGE OF THE PRINt-K ALBERT. Shi 4. It 18 the direct ronte toward the habitual yearly resort of the whalers onihe west coast of BafiiD's Bay and Davis' Strait ; indeed those ships occasionally de- scend Regent Inlet to a considerable dietarice south. 5. There are two persons attached to the expedition* who are well acquainted with this region ana its ro sources — viz., Mr. Blanky, ice master, and Mr. Mac Donald, assistant sui^eon, of the Terror. The former was with Sir John Ross in the Victory. The lattei has made several voyages in whaling vessels and is acquainted with the parts lyin^ between Begent Inlet and Davis' Strait. Where so tew among the crews of the missing ships have had any local experience, the concurrent knowledge of two persons would have considerable weight. 6. Opinions are very greatly divided as to the part m whicn Sir John Franldin's party may have been ar- rested, and as to the course they may have taken in consequence. It would be therefore manifestly unfair, and most dangerous, to reason out and magnify any one hvpothesis at the expense of the others. The plan here alluded to sought to provide for the probability of the Expedition having been stopped shortly after passing to the southwest of Capo "Walker. The very open season of 1845 was followed by years of unusual severity until 1849. It is therefore very possible that retreat as well as onward progress has been impossible — that safety alone has become their last object. The hope of rescu- ing them in tiieir last extremity depends, then, (as tar as numan means can insure it,) on the multiplying of sinaultaneous eflforts in every direction. Captain Aus- tin's vessels will, if moving in pairs, take two most im- portant sections only, of tne general search, and will find they have enough to do to reach their several points of operation this season. The necessity for this search was greatly enhanced tj the intelligence received about this time in England of the arrival of Mr. Rae and Commander PuUen at the Mackenzie Biver, thus establishing the fact, that Sir John Franklin's party had not reached any part of ^. '■^ 852 PBOOBEeiR OF ABCTIO PI8COVEEY. 4r^ the coast between Behring^s Strait and the Cop^rmine Biver, while the check which Mr. Bae received m hip course to the north of the Coppermine, tended to give increased importance to the quarter eastward of « uiat position. Commander Charles Codrinston Forsyth, E. K., an enterprising yonng officer, who nad not long previousljr been promoted in consequence of his arduous services in surveying on the Australian, African, and American shores, and who had rendered good service to the gov- ernment by landing supplies on the east coast of Africa, under circumstances of great difficulty during the Kafir war, had volunteered unsuccessfully for all the govern- ment expeditions, but was permitted by the Admiralty to command this private branch expedition, in which he embarked without fee or reward — on the nolfle and honorable mission of endeavoring to relieve hi^ xong- imprisoned brother officers. The Prince Albert, a small clipper vessel of about ninety tons, originally built hy Messrs. White, of Cowes, in October, ISlS, for the firuit trado, was accordingly hastily fitted out and dispatched from Aberdeen, and Captain Forsyth was instructed to winter, if possible, in Brentford Bay, in Begent Inlet, and thence send parties to explore the opposite side of the isthmus and the various shores and bays of the Inlet^ She had a crew of twenty, "W". Kay and W, Wilson acting as first and second mates, and Mr. W. P. Snow as clerk. She sailed on the 5th of June, and was consequently the last vessel that left, and yet is the first that has reached home, having also brought some account of the track of Franklin's expedition. The Prince Albert arrived off Cape Farewell, July 2d, entered the ice on the 19th, and on the 2l8t, came up with Sir John Boss in a labyrinth of ice. She pro- ceeded up Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, fell in with most of the English ships in those seas, and also with the American brig Advance, sailing some time in company, and attempted to enter Begent Inlet and "Wel- lington Chaanel. Shr left the Advance agronnd near M- '#' »* •. «*' ^ OYAGK or TIIK PKINOK ALBERT. 853 Cape Kiley, at the entrance of Wellin^n Chaimol, though not in a eituation eupposed to be dangerous. Commander Foreyth, in his omcial letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, says that '^ traces of the missing ex- Mdition under Sir Joha Franklin had been found at Cape Riley and Beechey Island, at the entrance to the Wellington Channel. We observed five places where tents bad been pitched, or stones placed as if they had been used for keeping the lower part of the tents down, also great quantities of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a Siece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on it, rellow,) part of which I have inclosed." Having en- tered Wellington Channel, and examined t je coast as I'ar as Point Einis, and finding no fn)*ther traces of tho missing vessels, and it being impracticable to peiiotrav s fhrther to the west. Commander Forsyth returned to T.q gent Inlet, but meeting no opening there, the season oeing near at hand when the ice begins to form, and his vessel not of a strength which would enable \ t) resist a heavy pressure ot ice, he determined on re' uri* ing without further delay to England, after examining a number of points nlong the coast. On the 25th of August, a signal stafif being observed on shore at Cape Riley, Mr. Snow was sent by Captain Forsyth to examine it. He found that the Assistance, Captain Ommaney, had been there two days before, and haa left the following notice : — " This is to certify that Captain Ommaney, with the officers of her Majesty's ships Assistance and Intrepid, landed upon Cape Riley on tne 23d Aug^i 1. 1860, where he found traces of encampments, and collected the re- mains of materials, which evidently proved that some party belonging to her Majesty's ships had been de- taine4 on that spot. Beeohey Island was also examined, where traces were found of the same party. This is also to give notice that a supply of provisions and fuel « at Cape Rilev. Since 15th August, thev have ex- amined tne nortn shore of Lancaster Sound and Bar- row's Strait, without meeting with any other traces. Captain. Ommaney proceeds to Cape Hotham and Cape ■snj f* :#^, 354 l»R0aRB83 OF ABOTIC DISOOYEBY. Walker in search of further traces of Sir John Frank- lin's expedition. Dated on board her Majesty's ship Assistance, off Cape Riley, the 23d August, 1850." The seamen who were dispatched from the Assietance to examine these remains, found a rope with the naval mark, evidently belonging to a vessel which had been fitted out at W oolwich, and which, in all probability, was either the Erebus or the Terror. -Other indications were also noticed, which showed that some vessel had visited the place besides the Assistance. Captain For- syth left a notice that the Prince Albert had called off Cape Riley on the 26th of August, and then bore up to the eastward. Captain Forsyth landed at Posses- sion Bay on the 29th August, but nothing was found there to repay the search instituted. The Prince Albert arrived at Aberdeen, on ^e 22d of October, after a quick passage, having been absent something less than four months. .Captain Forsyth proceeded to London by the mail train, taking with him, for the information of the Ad- miitdty, the several bones, (beef, pork, &c.,) which were found on Cape Riley, together with a piece of rope of about a foot and a half in length, and a small piece of canvas with the Queen's mark upon it, both in an ex cellent state of preservation ; placing it almost beyond a doubt that they were left on that spot by the expedi *ion under Sir John Franklin. ^ tain Om- rnaney felt satisfied on this score is evident from the terms of the paper he left behind him. The squadron, it appears, were in full cry upon the scent on the 25th of August, and we must wait patiently, but anxiously, for the next accounts of the results of their indefatiga- ble researches, which can hardly reach us from Bar- row's Strait before the autumn of 1851. There can be no doubt now in the mind of any ofte, that the Arctic Searching Expeditions have at length come upon traces, if not the track of Sir John Frank- lin. The accounts brought by Captain Forsyth must have at least satisfied the most desponding that there is still hope left — that the ships have not K>undered in Baffin's Bay, at the outset of the voyage, nor been crushed in the ice, and burned by a savage tribe of Esquimaux, who had murdered the crew. That the former might have happened, all must admit ; but to dip latter, few, we imagine, will give their assent, not- withstanding the numerous cruel rumors promulgated from time to time. It would be idle to dwell upon so impossible an event. Where could this sava^ tribe spring from ? Mr. Saunders describes the natives of W olstenholme Sound as the most miserable and hdp- less of mortals. They had no articles obtained from Europeans ; and he was of opinion that ther« were no 856 PBOOBBSS OF ABOnO DISCOVEBT. Bettlements farther north ; jind if there were, donbtless they would be even more impotent than these wretched beings. That the ship misht hare fonndered a^'must admit. The President did so with many a gallant soul on board. The Avenger ran on the ^relli, and 300 brave fellows, in an instant, met with a watery grave ; and till the sea shall mve np her dead, who can count the thousands that lie oeneath the bill(^s of the mighty ocean ? We have now certain evidence that Franklin's ships did not founder — not, at least, in Bafiin^s Ba; ; ana our own belief, (says a well-informed and compe- tent writer in the Morning Herald,) is that the pennant still floats in the northern breeze, amid eternal regions of snow and ice. The volage performed by the Prince Albert has thus been the means of keeping alive our hopes, and lof in- forming us, up to a certain point, of the progress of the expeditions, and the situation of the dinerent ships, of which we might have been left in a state of utter ignorance till the close of this year. Every thing con- nected with the navigation of the arctic seas is a chance, coupled, of course, with skill ; and in looking at this voyage performed by Lady Franklin's little vessel, it must be obvious to every one that Captain Forsyth has had the chance of an open season, and the •kill to make use of it. ^* Live a thousand years," and wd may never see such another voyage performed. Wo have only to look at all that have preceded. Parry, it is true, in one year ran to Melville Island, and passing a winter, got back to England the following season — and this is at present the ne plus lUtra of arctic navigation. Sir John Boss, we know went out in the Victory to Eesent Inlet, aid leas frozen in for four years, and all the world gave him up for Icpt — but " there's life in the old dog yet," ag the song ha* it. Sir James Boss was frozen in at Leopold Harbor, and only got out, afto** passing a winter, to be carried •way in a floe of ice into Baffin's Bay, which no human ■kill could prevent, VOTAGE OF THE rEINCB ALBEBT. 357 Sir George Back was to make a summer's cruise to Wager Inlet, and return to England. The result every Dne knows or may make themselves acquainted with, by reading the fearful voyage of the Terror, an ab- Btract of which I have alre^y given. It would bo superfluous to enumerate many other of our series of Dolar voyages, but it id pretty evident that Captain Forsyth's vovige, performed in the siimmer months of 1850, will Debanded down to posterity as one of the jaost remarkable, if not the most remarkable, that has ever been accomplished in the arctic seas — the expe- dition consisting of one solitary small vessel. The main obiect of the voyage, it is true, lias not been accomplished, but as all the harbors in Begent Inlet were frozen up, and it was utterly iiiff)ossibU; to cat through a vast tract of ice, extending for perhups four or five miles, to get the ship to a secure anchor- age, under these circumstances, Uaptain Forsyth had no alternative out to return, and in doing so, he has, in the opinion of all the best-informed o£Scers, dis- played great good sense and judgment rather than re- main frozen in at the Wellington Channel, where he only went to reconnoiter, and where he had no business whatever, Ms instructions being confined to Kegeni«. inlet "m A^V*^t ifr f^^'^-V ■m i» #4; ;t fi P:% iiSf %,, . u-in; ,^ •' '-^■Jfi'M-. J -'mr" :.' Jl^:i' ft- c i\ i ■'\'i^ % Jt ttj^'t^L.^ _ifl_L . ^.j: *# * - •*?«#? •• ^M ,#-►■' ■.^. I; ,*^' '^■i' '# -¥" .■< J*, to an immense field of ice, in si^ht of tL Devii'i Thumb. That high, rocky ]^eak, situated in latitude 74^ 22', was about thirty miles distant, and with the dark hills adjacent, presented a strange aspect where all was white and glittering. The pack and the hilli are masses of rock, with occasionally a lichen or a moss growing upon their otherwise naked surfaces. In the midst of the vast ice-field loomed up many lofty bergg, all of them in motion — glow and majestic motion. From the DeviPs Thumb the American vessels passed onward through the pack toward Sabine's Islands, while the Prince Albert essayed to make a more westerly course. They reached Cape York at the becinning of August. Far across the ice, landward, they discovered, through their glasses, several men, apparently making signals ; and for a while they rejoiced m the belief thsil they saw a portion of Sir John Franklin's companions. Four men, (among whom was our sailor-artist,) were dispatched with a whale-boat to reconnoiter. They soon discovered the men to be Esquimaux, who, by signs, professed great friendship, ana endeavored to get the voyagers to accompany them to their homes beyond the hills. They declined ; and as soon as they returned to the vessel, the expedition again pushed forward, and made its way to Cape Dudley Digges, which they reached on the 7th of August. At Cape Dudley Di^ffes they were charmed by the sight of tne Crimson Clins, spoken of by Captain rarry and other arctic navigators. These are lofty clifls of dark brown stone, covered with snow of a rich crimson color. It was a magnificent sight in that cold region, to see such an apparently warm object standing out in bold relief against the dark blue back-ground oi a polar sky. This was the most northern point to which the expedition penetrated. The whole coast whi^^they had passed from Disco to this cape is high, rugflll and barren, only some of the low points, stretching into the sea, bearing a species of dwarf fir. Northeast from the cape rise the Arctic Highlands, to an unknown alti- ^ li' ;« ^ m ^*- ^^ 1^ ^ #- tude ; ai Smith's t From cue, beal ice-fields inff theii fields int on the IJ gale, whi vessels p 6eparat€ Advance 22d disc< of the st precipito draped \ the office gi'eetinff. tonished, America: ward till thev so 8 eytli had he intenc the passt had resoj peared, t and the c in our fo The (ehen th< iurn hoir tions. gust, tha vast mas Snow, ai " The w[ npon the to be eitl and, des t^ TU£ AMEiaOAN ARCTIO UZPEDITION. 37t tude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored Smith'» Sound, filled with impenetrable ice. From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Res- cue, beating against wind and tide in the midst of the ice-fields, made Wolstenholme Sound, and then chang- ing their course to the southwest, emerged from the fields into the open waters of Lancaster Sound. Here, on the 18th of August, they encountered a ti'emendous gale, which Iksted about twenty-tour hours. The two vessels parted company during the storm, and remained separate several days. . Across Lancaster Sound, the Advance made her way to Barrow's Straits, and on the 22d discovered the Prince Albert an the southern shore of the straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty, precipitous rocks, dark and barren, and hooded and draped with snow. The weather was fine, and soon the officers and crews of the two vessels met in friendly gi'eeting. Those of the Prince Albert were much as- tonished, for they (being towed by a steamer,) left the Americans in Melville B&y on the 6th, pressing north- ward through the pack, and could not conceive how thev so soon and safely penetrated it. Captain For- syth had attempted to reach a pai-ticular point, where he intended to remain through the winter, but finding the passage thereto completely blocked im wHh ice, he had resolved, on the very day when the Americans ap- peared,*^o " 'bout ship," and return home. Tliis fact, and the disappointment felt by Mr. Snow, are mentioned in our former article. ' .sf The two vessels remained together a day or two, wrhen they parted company, the Prince Albert to re* iurn home, and the Advance to make further explorp tions. It was off Leopold Island, on the 22d of Au- gust, that the " mad Yankee " todk the lead through the vast masses of floating ifte, so vividly described by Mr. Bnow, and so graphically portrayed by the sailor-artist. " The way was before them," says Mr. Snow, who stood upon the deck of the Advance ; "the stream of ice had to be either gone through boldly, or a long detour made; and, despite the heaviness of the stream, Uiey pushed *- ♦ &•'- 372 FBOGBESS OF AROTIO DlSooV^EKY. t*** th>e vessel through m her proper course. Two or three shocks, as she came in contact with some large pieces, were unheeded ; and the moment the last block was past the bow, the officer sung out, ' So : steady as she goes on her course ;' and came aft as if nothing more than ordinary sailing had been going on. I observed our own little bark nobly following in the American's wake ; and as I afterward learned, she got through it pretty well, though not without much douHt of the pro- priety of keeping on in such procedure after the ' mad Yankee,' as he was called by our mate." From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the northwest, and on the 25th reached Cape Riley, an other amorphous mass, not so regular and precipitate as Leopold Island, but more lofty. Here a strong tide, setting in to the shore, drifted the Advance toward the beach, where she stranded. Around her were small bergs and large masses of floating ice, all under the influence of the strong current. It was about two o'clock in the aft^oon when she struck. By diligent labor in removing etery thing from her deck to a small floe, she was so lightened, that at four o'clock the next morning she floated, and soon every thing was properly replaced. iTear CapeJBiley the Americans fell in with a por- tion of an lli|^lish Expedition, and there also the Rescue, left behind in the gale in Lancaster Sound, overtook the Advance. There was Captain Penny with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the veteran Sir John Boss, with the Felix, and Commodore Austin, with the Resolrcte steamer. Together the navigators of both nations explored the coast at and near Cape Riley, and on the 27th they saw in a cove on the shore of Beechey Island, or Beechey Cape, on the east side of the entrance to Wellington Channel, unmistakable evi dence that Sir John Franklin and his companions were there in April, 1846. There they found many articles known to belong to the British N"avy, and some that were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships under the command of Sir John. There lay, bleached H ^:m •IN : m m ■* .' , €? m '^; w m • to the wli canvas . "w with inde perfectly guide boi face, hav the wind. used to di the vesse campmer was pine, and six a nailed tc feet in ] that the ice, cans hastily, a and its They als^ of tin such as for packi for a sea \ anvil blc nants of which e\ numerou and tbeJ barechai they bad as long ai ers could on ; the wool ; 80 charcoal fibrous fi Buttl melanch in a litth bearing THE AMEAIGAN ABOTIO EXPEDITION. 375 to the whiteness of the Burrounding snow, a piece of canvas , with the name of the Terror, marked upon it with indestrac'ible charcoal*. It was very faint, yet perfectly legible. Near it was a guide board, lying flat upon its face, having been prostrated by tlie wind. It had evidently been used to direct exploring pakies to the vessels, or rather, to the en- campment on shore. The board was pine, thirteen inches in length and six and a half in breadth, and nailed to a boarding pike eight feet in length. It is supposed that the sudden opening of tho ice, caused Sir John to depart hastily, and in so doing, t}ii» pike and its board were left behind. They also found a large number of tin canisters, such as are used for packing meats for a sea voyage; an anvil block : rem- nants of clothing, which evinced, %- numerous patches and their thread- bare character,that they h iid been worn as long as the own- ers could keep them AXTIL BLOCK. GUIDE B0AJEU5. on ; the remains of an India Rubber glove, lined with wool ; some old sacks : ^.cask, or tub, parti v filled with charcoal, and an unfiimPlf rope-mat, whicn, like other fibrous fabrics, wa^^^ached white. But the most inSrasting, and at the same time most melancholy traces of the navigators, were three graves, in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the head, bearing the name ol the sleeper below. These inscrip- 5.#.. 376 PBOOKES8 OF AKOTIO ])W0O^'EKX^ tions testify positively when Sir John and his compan ions were there. The board at the head of the grave on the left has the following inscription : " Sacred to the memory of John Torrinqtok, who departed this life, January 1st, a d., 1846, on board her Majesty's ship Terror, aged 20 years." On the Center one — " Sacred to the memory of JoRN HAivrNELL, A. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus; died, January 4th, 1846, aged 25 years. * Thus saith the Lord of Hosts, Consider your ways ;' Haggai, chap, i. 5, T.» On the right — "Sacred to the memory of W. Braine, R. M., of her Majesty's ship Erebus, who died April 3d, 1846, aged 32 years.. ' Choose you this day whom you will serve :' Joshua, chap, xxiv., part of the 15th verse." 'i ■^. ■?lKkUr THREE GRAVES AT BEECHElT. How much later than April 3d (the date upon the last-named head-board,) Sir John remained atBeechey, can not be determinea. They saw evidences of his having gone northward, for sledge tracks in that di- rection were /isibie. It i'l^Ae opinion of Dr. Kane that, on the Iveaking up o Wb ice, in the spring, Sir John passed earthward with his ships through Welling- ton Channel, into the great Polar basin, and that he did not return. This, too, is the opinion of Captain Penny, and he zealously urges the British government to send a powerful screw steamer to pass through thai "^ ^ ^^rnrni •fc.' *iL: ehaunel, coasts \i another i BeecUey ference \ the seasc ent year the retui ion cone panions. now to Island," of his p] own pari of them, knew w] privatioi ordinate moss-Ian white w] gratory ' the won nent qui winter, 1 mer ; a; seasons Leavii through escaped ored to ( their wi of pack- tember, maining attempt picture, Inlet, ai range o within 1 to the " TIIE AMERICAJT ABCTIO SXPEDITION. 879 ebaunel, and explore the theoretically more hospitable coasts beyond. This will doubtless be undertaken another season, it being the opinions of Captains Parry, Beechey, Sir John Koas, and others, expressed at a con- ference with the board of Admiralty, in September, that the season was too far advanced to attempt it the pres- ent year. Dr. Kane, in a letter to Mr. Grinnell, since the return of the expedition, thus expresses his opin- ion concerning the safety of Sir John and his com- panions. After saying, ^'I should think that he is now to be 8<^^ht for north and west of Oomwallis Island," he adds, ^^ as to the chance of the destruction of his party by the casualties of ice, the return of our own party after something more than the usual share of them, is the only fact that I can add to what we knew when we set out. The hazards from cold and privation of food may be almost looked upon as sub- ordinate. The snow-hut, the fii'e and light from the moss-lamp fed with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the white whale, and occasionally abundant stores of mi* gratory birds, would sustain vigorous life. The scurvy, the worst visitation of explorers deprived of permar nent quarters, is more rare in the depths of a polar winter, than in the milder weather of the moist sum mer; and our two little vessels encountered both Beasons without losing a man." Leaving Beechey Cape, our expedition forced its way through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly escaped being frozen in for the winter. They endeav- ored to enter the Inlet, for the purpose of making it their winter quarters, but were prevented by the mass of pack-ice at its entrance. 'It was on the 4th of Sep* tember, 1850, when they arrived there, and after re- maining seven or eight days, they abandoned the attempt to enter. On the right and left of the above picture, are seen the dark rocks at the entrance of the Inlet, and in the center of the frozen waters and the range of hills beyond. There was much smooth ice within thetJWet, and while the vessels lay anchored to the " fiwi? officers and crew exercised and amuse4 m- !880 .V PB00BB8S OF AKOTIO DI8COTRRY. fchemselveB by skating. On the left of the Inlet, (In dioated by the dark conical object,) they discovered a Cairn, (a heap of itones with a cavity,) eight or ten feet in height, which was erected by Captain Ommaney of the English Expedition then in the p »lar waters. Within it he had jlaced two letters, for Whom it might vjoncem." Commander De Haven also depos- itod V letter there. It is believed to be the only jxst- office in the world, free for tlie nse of all nations. The rocks, here, presented vast fissures mad^ ^>y the frost; and at the foot of the cliff on the ri^ht that powerful agent had cast down v; t heaps of oebris. From Barlow's Inkt, our expedition moved slowly westward, battling with the ice every rood of the way, until they reachoa Griffin's Island, at about 90"^ west longitude from Greenwich. This was attained on the 11th, and was the extreme westing made by the exoo- dition. All beyond seemed impenetrable ice ; and, despairiug of makiiig any furthei* discoveries before tho winter should set in, they resolved to return home. Turning eastward, they hoped to reafch Davis' Strait by the southern route, before the cold and darkness came on , but they were doomed to disappointment. Near the entrancs to Wellington Channel they became coir<|>letely locked in by hummock-ice, and soon found themselves drifting with an irresistible tide up that channel toward the pole. Now began the most perilous adventures of the navi- gators. The summer day was drawing to a close ; the diurnal visits of the pale sun were rapidly shortening. and soon the long polar night, with all its darkness ana horrors, would fdl upon them. Slowly they drifted in those vast fields of ice, whither, or to what result, thgy knew not. Locked in the moving yet compact mass ; liable at every moment to be crusted ; far away from land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower from the zero figure, toward the point where that metal freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again. Yet they prepared for winter comforts and ^ijnter sports, as cheerfully as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet. As tho m- i • rTF* m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 LI IM 12.2 18 11.25 i 1.4 i 1.6 V] vl '^i^/ ^J" V v: ^ '^ /A '/ PhotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 ^. ■^ ''b m ■\> m- t^ TUK AUEHIOAN AXOnO SXPSDmCOS, 9M «vinter advanced, the erewd of both the veiisek went on Doard the larger one. Thej unshipped the rudders of each, to prevent their bein^ injured oy the ice, covered the deck of the Advance with felt, prepu^d their stores, and made arrangements for endunng the long winter, now upon them. Physical and mental activity being necessary for the preservation of health, they daily ex- ercised m the open air for several hours. Tliey built ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and* the little polar foxes, and when the darkness of the winter night had spread over them -they arranged in-door amiliements and employments. Before the end of October, the sun made its appeals ftDce for the last time, and the awful polar night closed in. Early in November they wholly abandoned the Bescue, and both crews made the Advance their permanent winter home. The cold soon became in- tense ; the mercury congealed, and the spirit tfaermomo' ter indicated 46° oelow zero I Its average range was 30"' to 36°. They had drifted helplessly up Wellington Channel, almost to the 'latitude trom whence Captain Penny saw an open sea, and which all believe to bo the great polar oasin, where there is a more genial dime ^an that which intervenes between the Arctic Circle and the 75th degree. Here, when almost in sight of the open ocean, that mighty polar tide, with its vast masses of ice, suddenly eblied, and our little vessels were carried back as resistlessly as before, through Barrow's Straits into Lancaster Sound! All this while the immense fields of hummock-ice were moving, and the vessels were in hourlv dan^r of being crushed and destroyed. At l^gtb, while driffcinc through Barrow's Straits, the congealed mass, as if crushed togethw by the opposite snores, became more compaqt, and the Advance was elevated almost seven teet by Uie stem, and keeled two feet eight inches, star- board. In this position she remained, with very little alteration for five consecutive months ; for, soon after entering I^t^n's Bay in the midst of the winter, the ice becaine%ozen in one immense tract, covering mi] •■#■ m ■^w ruooiuiss OP Aiicric macovKKY. lions otVaci*os. Tints frown in, sometimes mora tlmn a huiidrocl milos from land, tlicy drittod slowly along tlio soiitliwost coast of Baitings Bay, a distance of more tiian a thousand miles from Wellington Channel. For elcvoi weeks that dreary night continued, and during that time tlio disc of the sun was never seen above the hori zon. Yet nature was not wholly forbidding in aspect Sometimes the Aui'oi'a Eorcalis would ihish up still further noiihwai'd ; and sometimes Aurora Parhelia- mock snns and mock inoons— would appear in varied boautjgiRi; the starry sky. Brilliant, too, \vere the north- em constellations ; and when the real moon was at its full, it made its statelv circuit in the heavens, without descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast piles of ice with a pale luster, almost as great as the morning twilights of more genial skies. Around the vessels the crews built a wall of icei; and in ice huts they stowed away their cordage and stores to make room ibr exercise on the decks. Thev organ- ized a theatrical company, and amused themselves and the officers with comedy well peiformed. Behind the Eieces of hummock each actor learned his part, and y means of calico they transfonned tliemselves into female cliaracters, as occasion required. These dramas were acted on the deck of the Advance, sometimes while the thermometer indicated 30° below zero, and actors and audiences highly enjoyed the fun. They also went in parties during that l(mg night, fully annea, to hunt the polar bear, the ffrim monarch of the frozen Korth, on which occasions they often encountered peril* ous adventures. They played at foot-ball, and exercised themselves in drawing sledges, heavily laden with pi'O- visions. Five hours c« each twenty-four, they thus exer- cised in the open air, and c "^^ a week each man waslied his whole body in cold y water. Serioub sickness was consequently avoidevi, and the scurvy which a^ tacked them soon yielded to remedies. ^ Often during that fearful night, they expected the disaster of havmg their vessels crushed, jkll through NovomlHM* and, December, before the ice TOcame fost \ ^ rUK AIIKKICAN ABCmO KXI'KDITION. m tlioy 6lei>t ill their clotlios, with kimpeacks on thoir backs, and elodgcs uiH>n the ice, laden witii etorcs, not knowing at what moment the vessels might bo deuiol' Hhcd, and themselves foroed to leave them, and mako tlicir way toward land. On the Sth of December, and tiie 23d of January, they actnally lowered their boats and stood upon the ice, for the crushing masses were making the timbers of the gallant vobselcreak and its decks to rise in the center. They were then ninety miles from land, and hope hardly whispered an encour- aging idea of life bein^ sustained. On the laMr occa- sion, when ofiicera and crew stood upon the ice, with the ropes of their provision sledges m their hands, a terrible snow-drift came fi'om the northeast, and intense ' darkness shrouded them. Had the vessel then been crushed, all must have perished. But God, who ruled the storm, also put foiih His protecting arm and saved them. Early in February the northern horizon began to be streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald ot the ap- proaching king oi day ; and on the ISth the disc of the sun nrst appeared above the horizon. As its golden rim rose above the glittering snow-drifts and piles of iee, three hearty cheers went up from those hardy mar iners, and they welcomed their deliverer from the * chains of frost as cordially as those of old who chanted, "Sm I the donquering hero comes, Sound the trunapet, beat the drama.** Day after day it rose higher and higher, and while the pallid faces of the voyagers, bleach^ during that long night, darkened by its l>eam8, the vast masses of ice began to yidd to its fervid influences. The scurvy dis- appeared, and from that time, until their arrival home, not a man snf^^d from sickness. As they slowly drifted, through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indica- tions of breaking up, the voyagers made preparations for sailing. T^e Bescue was re-occupied, (May 13th, 1851,) ana her stone-post, which had been broken by the ice in Barrow's Straits, was repaired. To accom- plish ^isy they were obliged to dig away the ice whicb # 888 FROGBKSg or ASanO DBBOOVBBT. wftB fironi 12 to 14 feet tliiok around her, as represented in the engraving. Tbeyreshipped their rudders ; re> moved tlie felt covering ; idacM their stores on deck, and then patiently awaited the disruption of the ^ This event was very sudden and apptulinff. It began ^ to give way on the 5th of June, ana in the space of twenty minutes the whole mass, as far as the eye could reach, became one vast field of moving floes. On the 10th of June^ they emerged into open water, a little 9out)|.of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 6i° SC. They im»i|iktely repaired to Oodhaven, on the coast of Oreenrad, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the perils through which they had just passed, they once more turned their prows northward to encounter anew tlie ice squadrons of Bafiin's Bay. Again they trav- ersed the coast of Greenland to about the 73d de- gree, when they bore to the westward, and on tiie 7tb and 8th of July, passed the English whaling fleet near the Dutch Islands. Onward they preset through the accumulating ice to Baffin's Island, where, od the 11th, they were joined by the Prince Albert, then out upon another cruise. They continued in com- pany until the 8d of August, when the Albert departed for the westward, determined to try the more south em passage. Here asain our expeaition encountered vast fields of hummock-ice, and were subjected to th^ most immment perils. The floating ice, as if moved hy adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and reared upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels Hke monsters of the deep intent upon destruction. These masses broke in the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon the decks with terrible force, like rocks rolled over a plain by mountain tcnrrents. The noise was feariul ; so deafening that the mariners could scarcely hear each other's voices. The sounds of these rollini^ masses, to- gether with the rending of the icebergs fating near, and the vast floes, produced a din like the discharge of a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of battle. Finding the north and west closed against furthei progress, by impenetrable ice, the brave De Haven wai u >re8entod iers; i^ on deck, f the ^ It began space of 5ye conld On the ', a little They coast of edbythe hey once ter anew ley tra?. 73d de- n Dhe 7tb Seet near through here, od )ert, then in corn- departed re sooth ountered id toth^ floved by d reared monsters > masses ^er upon I over a Eirfxil;so ear each isses, to* dg near, hargeof f battle. furthei yen wai ^^^r - I^W TUB AMBBIOiUI AMCTtb MMrKDKttOS. 898 balkod, mmL turning bii ves 8«U kpmeiwsfd, thej eame out into an open eca, somewhat crippled, but not a plank serionsly stai'ted. Daring a storm on the banks f Newfoundland, a thousand miles from Kew York, e vessels sarted company. The Advance arrived safely at thcr^Kavy Yard at Brooklpi on the dOCk of September, and the Rescne joined her tbere a few dayir afterward. Toward the close of Octobo*, the govern^ ment resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Griii- nell, to be used in other service, but with the stlpnlation that they are to be subject to t^ order of the^ftMletary of the I^avy in the spring, if required Ibr^pother ext«dition in search of Sir John FrankHn. We have thus given a very brief account of the prin- cipal events of interest connected with tiie American Arctic Expedition; afull report of which, and detailed narratives have been published. Aside fh>m the suo- cesB whicii attended onr little vessels in encountering the perils of the polar seas, there are associations which must foFcver hallow the efibrt as one <^the noblest exhibitions of the true glory of nations. The navies of America and England have before met upon the ocean, but they met for deadly strife. Now, too, they met for strife, equally determined, but not with each other. They met m the holy cause of benevolence and human sympathy, to battle with Aelements beneath the Arctic Circle ; and the chivalrieneroiem which the few stout hearts of the two nations displayed in that terrible conflict, redounds athousand-fola more to the glory of the actors, their governments, and the race, than if fournscore . a^pa, with ten thousand armed men had fought ibr the n. as* tery of each other upon the broad ocean, and battered hulks and marred corpses had gone down to the coral caves of the sea, a dreadful offering to the demon of Discord. In the latter event, troops of widows and or- phan ctiildren would have sent up a cry of wail ; now, the heroes advanced manfully to rescue husbands and fathers to restore them to their wives and children. How glorious the thought I and how suggestive of the beauty of that fast approaching day, when tha untl w ; 894 TuoQuam Of Ascmo moo^sr. i» \¥, •hall Bit down in peaoo m vnitod ekildron of om household. WiNTBB IK TBB AscmO OOBAV. fl The following4pnrativo, tliowing tho t4^ the wintot ot 1851-52 WM passed by those enga^ in the i*ocon arctio expedition, is from the official repoH lundo by lient. De Haven, tiie Commander of the expedition ^ On the morning of the 13th Sept., 1850, the wind hayiiMyoiodefated sufficiently, wo got nndor way, and M'orkflg our way throngh some streams of ice, arrived in a few hours at ^ Griffitii's ' Island, nnder the lee of which we found our consort made fast to the eliorc, where she had taken shelter in the gale, her crow Lav- « ing sufiered a good deal from the inclemency of the 1^ weather. In bringing to nnder the lee of the island, she had the misfortune to spring her rudder, so tliat on joining us, it was with much difficulty she could steer. To insure her safety and more rapid progress, she was taken in tow b^ the Advance, when she bore up witb a fine breeze from the westward. Off Gape Martyr, we left tiie English squadron under Capt. Austin. About ten miles f^li;her to the east, the two vessels un- der Capt Penny, and that nnder Sir John Eoss, were seen i^cured near the land. At 8 p. igj^we had ad- vanced as far as Cape Hotham. Thence as far as the increasing darkness of the night enabled us to see, there was nothing to obstruct our progress, except the bay ice. This, with a good breeze, would not have im- peded us much ; butimfortunately the wind, when it was most I'equired, miled ns. Tlio snow, with which the suiiaco of the water was covered, rapidly cemented, ^ and formed a tenacious coat, through which it was im- possible with all our appliances to ^rce the vessels. At 8 p. M., they came to a dead stand, some ten miles to the east of Barlow^s Inlet. v " The ibllowing day the wiiid hauled to the southward, from which quaitcr it lasted till the 19tli. Diu'ing this pci*iod the young icQ was |>rokon, its edges squeezed «» OM f^' ■ k liko liam it all AM stood tli< inadoiti in hoi)es gomootl security iteverity of otnr D aDxions whenco extent o: "Intl wind, w we were seen on was seoi west of of Well ing to 1 driven 1 On the OS a 801 western the wii bringio midnig to man her froi iinniovi »*W< the 22( asinnl (ion, al] tonr m This It termin bave sonal * i WINTKll IN TUK AMOnO OOIUM. 896 liko liftmiaodcs, and ouo flee OTerrnn bj Motlior imtil it ftll AMumed tlio Appoarance of lioftvy ioo. Tlio vot- eelf received some lioftTy iii]ie iVoin it, but tliej with- stood tkom witboiit injnrj. Wlienoter » iiool ot' water inado its a^^araneo, eTer|^ff»rt was made to reaeli it, in lioi)e8 that it wonkl loac^s into IkMliey Island, off gomo otbor place whore tlie vessel mflriit m> placed in into IkMliey Island, off esel mnriit m> placed in Mcarity ; ior the winter set in unusually early, and the oeverity with which it oommenccd, Ibrbado alf hopes of onr being able to retnni this season. I now beeanui aDxions to attain a point in the neighborhood^ J'roni whence by means of Jand parties, in the spring, a fSbdly extent of Wellinfi^n Channel might be examined. ^ In the mean time, under the influence of the south wind, we were being sot up the channel. On the IStli we were above Cape Bowden, the most northern iK>int seen on this shore oy Parrv. The laud on both sliorcs was seen much further, and trcnd(^considorabl^ to tlie west of north. To accouut for thV drift, the hxed ice of Wellington Channel, which wo had oliscrvcd in ]inss- ing to the westward, must have been broken up and dnycn to the southward by the heavy gale of the 12tii. On the i6th the wind veered to the north, which gave ns a southerly set, forcing us at the same tune with the western shore. Tliis did not last long ; for the next day the wind haii|kl again to the south, and blow fresh, bringing the i^ in upon us with nuich pressure. At midni|;ht it broke uu all aroimd us, so that wo had work to nwmtain the Aa vance in a safe position, and keep her from being separated from her consort, which was immovably fixed in the center of a lai'ge floe. "We continued to dritl slowly to tlio N. N. W., until t\\Q 32d, when our progress appeared to be aiTCSted by a small low island, which was discovered in that direc- tion, about seven miles distant. A channel of three or fonr miles in width separated it from Comwallis Island. This latter island, trending N. W. fi-om our ])08ition, teroiinated abruptly in an elevated ea)X), to which I have mv^tliQ name of Manning, after a warm |>cr- sonal mend and ardent supjwrtcr of the cx))odition. 396 PttOOBESS OF ^KOnO DUOOVEJVr. Between Ooniwallis Island and some distant hiffh land visible in the north, appeared a wide channel leading to the westward. A dark, misty-looking clond which hung over it, (technically termed frost-smoke,) was in- dicative of mnch open wa^ in that direction. This was the directioinpin which my instmctions, referring to the investigations of the National Observatory, concern ing the winds and currents of the ocean, directed me to look for open water. Nor was the open water the only indication that presented itself in confirmation of this theoratical conjecture as to a milder climate in that direction. As we entered Wellinffton Channel, the sisns of animal life became more abundant, and Cap- tarn Pennv, commander of one of the English expe- ditions, who afterward penetrated on sledges mnch toward the region of the ' frostnsmoke,' mnch further than it was possible for ns to do in onr vessels reported that he actually arrjked on the borders of this o|)cii sea. "Thus, these admirably drawn instructions, deriving arguments from the enlarged and comprehensive sys- tem of physical research, not only pointed with em- phasis to an unknown sea into which FranUin had probably found his way, but directed me to search for traces of his expedition in the very channel at the entrance of whicn it is now ascertained he had passed his first winter. The direction in whi^h search with most chances of success is now to be made for the missing expedition, or for traces of it, is no doubt in the direction which is- so clearly pointed out in my in- structions. To the channel which appeared to lead into the open sea over which the cloud of * frost-smoke' hung as a sign, I have given the name of Maury, after the distinguished gentleman at the head of our National Observatory, whose theory with regard to an open sea t^ the north is likely to be realized through this chan- nilJ To the large mass of land visible between N. W. to N. N. E., I gave the name of GrinneM, in honor of the head and heart of the man in whoso philanthropic mind originated the idea of this cxpedit?'(m,./ind ^^ whose munificence it owes its existence. \ • WUrilCR IN THE ABCriO 00£AN. 397 '* To a remarkable peak bearing N. K. E. from iig, distant about forty miles, was given the name of Mount Franklin. An inlet or harbor immediately to tho north of Cape Bowden was discovered by Mr. Griffin in his land excursion from Point Innes, on tho 27th of August, and has received the name of Griffin Inlet. The small island mentioned before was called Murdaugh's Island, after the acting mastCT of the Ad- vaijce. The eastern shore of Wellington Channel ai> peared to run parallel with the westem, but it became quite low, and being covered with snow, could not be aistinguished with certainty, so that its continuity with the high land to the north was not ascertained. Some small pools of opan. water appearing near us, an attempt ms made about fifty yards, but all our combined efforts were of no avail in extricating the Rescue from her icy cradle. A change of wind not only closed tho ice up again, but threatened to gire a severe nip. We unshipped her rudder and placed it out of harm's way. " September 22d, was an uncomfortable day. The wind was from N. E. with snow. From an early hour in the«noming, the floes began to be pressed together with 80 much tbrce that their edge was thrown up in immense ridges of rugged hummocks. The Advance was heavily nipped between two floes, and the ice was piled up so high above the rail on the starboard side as to threaten to come on board and sink us with its weight. All hands were occupied in keeping it out. The pressure and commotion did not cease till near midnight, when we were very glad to have a respite from our labors and fears. The next day wo were threatened with a similar scene, but it fortunately ceased in a short time. For the remainder of Septem- ber, and until the 4th of October, the vessels drifted but little. The winds were very light, the thermonaeter fell to minus 12, and ice formed over the pools in sight, Bufficiently strong to travel upon. We were now strongly impressed with the belief that the ice had be- come fixed for the winter, and that we should be able to send out traveling parties from the advanced position :,^.:fl- 398 PBOOBE88 07 ABCnC DISOOVEBT. for the examination of the lands to the northward StimiQated by this fair prospect, another attempt wan made to reach the shore in order to establish a depo^ of provisions at or near Cape Manning, which would materiallv facilitate the progress of our parties in the spring ; but the ice was still found to be detached froir the shore, and a narrow lane of water cut us from it. " During the interval of comparative quiet, prelimi* nary measures were taken for heating the Advance and increasing her quarters, so as to accomodate the officers and crew of Doth vessels. No stoves had a» yet been used in either vessel ; indeed they could not well be put up without placing a large quantity of store? and fiiel upon the ice. The attempt was made to do this, but a sudden crack in the floe where it appeared strongest, causing the loss of several tons of coal, con- vincea us that it was not yet sate to do so. It was not imtU the 20th of Ocibber, we got fires below. Ten days later the housingcloth was put over, and the offi- cers and crew of the Kescue ordered on board the Ad- vance for the winter. Koom was found on the deck of the Rescue for many of the provisions removed fiioiu the hold of this vessel. Still a large quantity had to be placed on the ice. The absence of fire below had caused much discomfort to all hands ever since the be- ginning of September, not so much from the low tem- perature, as from the accumulation of moisture bj condensation, which congealed as the temperature de* creased, and covered the wood work of our apartments with ice. ^is state of things soon began to work its effect upon the health of the crews. Several cases of scurvy appeared among them, and notwithstanding the indefatigable attention and active treatment resorted to by the medical officers, it could not be era^licated — its pron*ess, however, was checked, "-fil through October and November, we were drifted to and fro by the changing wind, but never passing ont of Wellington Channel. On the 1st of November, the new ice had attained the thickness of 37 inches. Still, frequent breaks would occur in itj often in fearful prox \ ' WINTEA IS THK AUOTIO OOEAM. 899 tmity to the vessels. Hummocks consisting of massir^ granite-like blocks, would be thrown up to the height of twenty, and even thirty feet. This action in the ice was accompanied with a variety of sounds impossible to be descnbed, but when heard never failed to carry a feeling of awe into the stoutest hearts. . In the stillness of an arctic night, they could be'*heard several miles, and often was the rest of all hands disturbed by them. To guard against the worst that could happen to us — the destruction of the vessels — the boats were prepared and sledges built. Thirty davs' provisions were placed in for all bands, together with tents and blanket bags for sleeping in. Besides this, each man and officer had his knapack containing an extra suit of clothes. These were all kept in readiness for use at a moment's notice. "For the sake of wholesome exercise, as well as to in- ore the people to ice traveling, frequent excursions were made with our laden sledges. The officers usually took the lead at the drag ropes, and they, as well as the mei> underwent the labor of surmounting the rugged hum mocks, with great cheerfulness and zeal. Notwith- standing the low temperature, all hands usually returned in a profuse perspiration. We had also other sources of exercise and amusements, such as foot-ball, skating, sliding, racing, with theatrical representations on hou- dajs and national anniversaries. These amusements were continued throughout the winter, and contributed very materially to the cheerfulness and general good iiealth of all hands. The drift had set us gradually to the S. E., until we were about five miles to %e S. "W. d Beechey Island. In this position we remained com- paratively stationary about a week. We once more began to entertain a hope that we had become fixed for the winter, but it proved a vain one, for on the last day of November a strong wind from the westward set in, with tfiick snowy weather. The wind created an im- mediate movement in the ice. Several fractures took place near us, and many heavy hummocks were thrown up. The floe in which our vessels were imbedded, was being rapidlv encroached upon, so that we were in nao* ' too lUCOOKESS OF AltCTIC DISOOTEKf. mcntary fear of the ico breaking from aronnd them, aiid that thoy would bo once more broken out and loft to tho tender mercies of the crashing floes. ** On tho following day (the 1st of December) tbo weather cleared off, and tho few honrs of twih'ght which we had abont noon, enabled ns to ^t a glimpse of the land. As well as we conld make it ont, we ap- peared to be off Gascoigne Inlet. We were now clear of Wellington Channel, and in the fair way of Lan- caster Sound, to be set either up or down, at the mercy of the prevailing winds and currents. We were not long leit in donbt as to the direction we had to pursue. Tho winds prevailed from the westward, and our drift was steady and rapid toward the mouth of the Sound. The prospect before us was now any thing but cheering. Wo wore deprived of our last fond hope, that ;of be- coming fixed in some position whence operations could be carried on by means of traveling parties in the spring. Tho vessels were fast being set out of the region of search. Nor was this our only source of un- easiness. Tho line of our drift was from two to five miles from the north shore, and whenever the moving ice met with any of the ca])es or projecting points of land, tho obstruction would cause fractures in it, ex- tending off to and tar beyond us. Cape Hurd was the firet and most prominent point — wo were bat two miles from it on the 3d of December. Nearly all day tho ice was both seen and heard to be in constant mo- tion at no great distance from us. In the evening a citick on 4 PB00RES8 OP AKOnO DISCOVERY. ^.. A J t ITH . ** On th^ morriing of the 14th there was again Bome motion in the floes. That on the port side moved off from the vessel two or three feet and there became stationary. This lefc the vessel entirely detached from the'ico round tlie water line, and it was expected she would once more resame an upright position. In tins, however, we were disappointed, for sue remained with her stern elevated, and a considerable lift to star- board, being held in this uncomfortable position by the heavy masses which had been forcoi under her bottom She retained this position until she finally broke out in the spring. "We wore now fully launched into Baf- fin's Bay, and our line of dritt be^an to be more south- erly, assuming a direction nearly parallel with the western shore of the Bay at a distance of from 40 to 'TO miles from it. " After an absence of 87 days, the sun, on tlie 29th of Jan rose his whole diameter above the south- ern horiibn, and remained visible more than an hour. All handd gave vent to delight on seeing an old friend again, in three hearty cheers. The length of the days now went on increasing rapidly, but no warmth was yet experienced from the sun's rays ; on the contrary the cold became more intense. Mercury became con- gealed in February, also in March, which did not occur at any other period during the winter. A very low temperature was invariably accompanied with clear and calm, weather, so that our coldest days were per- haps the most pleasant. In the absence of wind, we ^ could take exercise in the open air without any incon- veniehcid^from the cold. But with a strong wind blow ing, it was aangerous to be exposed to its chilling blasts for any lengl^of time, even when the thermometer indicated a comparatively moderate degree of tem- perature. ''The ice around the vessels soon became cemented again and fixed, and no other rupture was experienced until it finally broke up in the spring, and allowed us to escape. Still we kept driving to the southward along with the n hole mass. Open lanes of water were w f 1 4 viBible at I be formed seals, and men were few of the their exerl seen prow winter; o A few of wholesoini flesh of t1 ceived wil "As the more nnm by the nn the medic pecially U medical o sion to e< crew, and which he mended, without t February able us tc cue, suffi injury sh and. It ' geon aloi was adjui shipping, sprit wae we had 1 vessels b "InM snow wh became ' dissoluti* to be dis riodtob i YHNTEB nr m^ Jforib ookav. 406 visible at all times from aloft ; lometimet they wimld be formed within a mile or twovftni. Nam halt, seals, and doyekys were seen in ffn. Onr sporti- inon were not expert enoneh to procure any, except a few of the latter; although they were indefatigable in their exertions to do so. Bears would frequently be seen prowling about ; only two were killed during tha winter ; others were wounded, but made their escape. A few of us thought their flesh very palatable and wholesome ; but the majority utt&byjejected it. The flesh of the seal, when it could oflpbtained, was re- ceived with more favor. ^* As the season advanced, the cases of scuryy became more numerous, yet the^ were all kept under control by the unwearied attention and skillful treatment of the medical officers. Hy thanks are due to them, es- pecially to Passed Atfistant Surgeon Kane, the senior medical officer of the expedition. I often had occa- sion to consult him concerning the hygiene of ike crew, and it is in a great measure owing to the advice which he gave and the expedients which he recom- mended, tnat the eaf»edition was enabled to return without the loss of one man. By the latter end of February the ice had become sufficiently thick to en- able us to build a trench around the stem of the Bes- cue, sufficiently deep to ascertain the extent of the injury she had received in the gale at Griffith's Isl- and. It was not found to be material : the upper gud- geon alone had been wrenched from the stem post. It was adjusted, and the mdder repaired in readin* shipping, when it should be required. A ne sprit was also made for her out of the few spar< we had left, and every thing made seaworthy in vessels before the breaking up of the ice. ''In May, the noon-day began to take effect upon the snow which covered the ice ; the surface of the floes became watery, and difficult to walk over. Still the dissolution was so slow in comparison with the mass to be dissolved, that it must have taken it a long pe- riod to become liberated from this cause alone. Jd< ore '*. % 406 PBOOBIM OF ^I^JKTflO Disoovcirr. vai expected fron^onr sontherljr drift, ^^hicb Btfll con- m carry us into a nrilder climnto ronton i4|0>oi Vtl tiniied, and mnc and open sea. "W the 19th of May, the land ahont Cape Bearle yrns made out, the first that we had seen sinee passing Gape Walter Bathurst, about the 20th of January. A few days later we were off Cape Wnlsing- ham, and on the 27th, passed out of the Arctic Zone. jH On the Ist of April, a hole was cut in some ico that had been forming 6i|^ce our first besetment in Septem- ber ; it was fouqi4p have attained the thickness of 7 feet 2 inches, ifluis month, (April,) the amelioration of the temperature became quite sensible. All hands were kept at work, cutting and sawing the ice around the vessels, in order to allow them to float once more. With the Rescue, they succeeded, after much labor, in attaining this object ; but around the stem of l^io Ad- yance, the ice was so thick thatigr 13 feet saw was too short to pass through it ; her bows and sides, as far aft as the gangway, wore liberated. After making somo alteration in the Rescue for the better accommodation of her crew, and fires being lighted on board of her several days previous, to removSthe ice and dampness, which had accumulated during the winter, both omecrs and crew were transferred to her on the 24th of April. The stores of this vessel, which had been taken ont, were restored, the housing cloth taken off, and the ves- sel made in every respect ready for sea. There was little prospect, however, of our being able to reach the desired element very soon. The nearest water was a narrqv lane more than two miles distant. To cut throi^ the ice which intervened, would have been next to ^pbssible. Beyond this lane, fi*om the mast-head, nonng but intermediate floes could be seen. It was thought best to wait with patience, and allow nature to work for us. "June 6th, a moderate breeze firom S. E. "^th pleasant weather — thermometer up to 40 at noon, and altogether quite warm and malting day. During the morning a peculiar cracking sound was heard on the floe. I was mcjined to impute it to the settling of the snowdrifts as '!« wnrnsB nx floe arcito ookak. 4#7 thoy woru actod npon bj tho smi, bnt in tbo ailornoon, about 5 o'clock, tho unzzio wua solvod very lucidly, and to tlio oxceedinff satisfaction of all bands. A crack in tbo floo took pmce between iib and tlie Kcscno, and in a few minntes thereafter, tho whole immenso field in which we bad been imbcV turned tojJMting rid of it. With saws, axes, and crowbai-s, the ^ople went to work with a right food will, and after hard labor for 48 hours succee^d. he vessel was again afloat, and she righted. The joy of all hands vented itself spontaneously in three hearty cheers. Tlie aft;er pai*t of the false keel was pone, be- ing carried away by the ice. The loss of it, however, I was glad to perceive, did not materially affect the sailing or working qualities of the vessel. The rudders were shipped, ana wo were once more ready to move, ao efficient as on the day wo left New York. "Steering to the S. E. and working slowly through the loose but heavy pack, on tho 0th we u^rted from the Bcscue in a dense fog, she taking a dimrent lead from the one the Advance was pursuing." A"^' ■'^ivtjt' ^^A«5' iiv '* i^T'" m .«■:■ PSOGSESS OF AJtOflO DI800TEBT. Ground fob Hope. u Mr. Wm. Penny, of Aberdeen, states in a letter to the Times, that Capt. Martin, who, when commanding the whaler Enterprise, in 1845, was the last person to communicate with Sir. J. Franklin, has just informed him that the Enterprise was alongside the Erebus, in Melville Baj, and Sir John Franklin invited Lira, (Capt. Martm,) to dine with him, which the latter de clined doing, as the wind was fair to go south. Sit John, while conversing with Oapt. Martin, told him that he had five years' provisions, which he could make last seven, and his people were busily engaged in salting down birds, of which they had several casks full already, and twelve men were out shooting more. "To see such determination and foresight," observes Mr. Penny, " at that early per^^ is really wonderful, and must give ns the greate^Ropes." Mr. Penny says that Capt. Martin is a man of fortune, and of the strictest integrity. T^e foUowmg is the deposition of Capt. Martin, just received in the London Times, of Jan. 1, 1852, con- taining the facts above alluded to : Kobert Martin, now master and commander of the whaleship Intrepid, of Peterhead, solemnly and sin- cerely declares that on the 22d day of July, 1845, when in command of the whale ship Enterprise, of Peter- head, in lat. 75*^ 10', long. 66° "W., calm weather, and towing, the Erebus and Terror were in company. These ships were alongside the Enterprise for about fifteen minutes. The declarant conversed with Sir John Franklin, and Mr. Beid, hie ice-master. The conver- sation lasted all the time the ships were close. That Sir John, in answer to a question by the declarant if he had a good supply of provisions, and how long he expected them to last, stated th&t he had provisions for five years, and if it were necessary he could "make them spin out seven years ;" and he said further, that he would lose no opportunity of killing birds, and whatever else was useful that came in the way, to keep OBO0ln> FOB HOPE. 409 up their stock) and that he had plenty of powder and shot for the purpose. That Sir John also stated that he had already several casks of birds salted, and had then two shooting parties out — one from each ship. The birds were very numerous ; many would fall at a siugle shot, and the declarant has himself killed forty at a shot with white pease. That the birds are very as^reeable food, are in taste and size somewhat like young pigeons, and are called by the sailors " rotges." That on the 26th or 28th of said month of July, two parties of Sir John's officers, who had been out shoot- ing, dined with the declarant on board the Enterprise. There was a boat with six from each ship. Their con- versation was to the same effect as Sir John's. They spoke of expectii^ to be absent four or five, or per- haps six years. Tnefte officers also said that the ships would winter wher<|g^y could find a convenient place, and in spring puswKi as far as possible, and so on year after year, as the determination was to push on as far as practicable. That on the following day, an invitation was brought to the declarant, verbally, to dine with Sir John, but the wind shifted, and the Enterprise having cut through *}ie ice about a mile and a half, the declarant was obliged to decline the invitation. That he saw the Erebus and Terror for two days longer; they were still lying at an iceberg, and the Enterprise was mov- ing slowly down the country. ThfM; so numerous were the birds mentioned, and so £sivorable fas the weather for shooting them, that a very large number must have been secured during the time the declarant was in eight of the two ships. The Prince of Wales whaler wuB also within sight during the most of the time. Chat from the state of the wind and weather for a pe- riod of 10 days, during part of which the declarant •vas not in sight of the two ships, the best opportunity ^vas afforded for securing the birds. That the birds described are not to be found at all places on the fish- ing ground during the whaling season, but are met with in vast numbers every season on certain feeding I', 410 PJKOOBB88 OF ABCflO DISGOYEBY. banks ana places for brooding, and it appeared at the time by the declarant to be a most fortunate circttm- stance that the Erebtks and Terror had fallen in witli BO many birds, and that the state of the weather was so favorable for securing large numbers of them. The declarant has himself had a supply of the same de ficription of birds, which kept fresn and good during three months, at Davis' Strait, and the last were as good as the first of them. Which declaration, above written, is now made cpnscientiously, believing the i^ame to be true. EOBEBT HasTIN. Declared, December, 29th, 1861, before R. Grath, Provqst of Peterhead. Ai !>■ A:- vol AGE OF tlflC 6TEA.MEK ISABEL. 411 A. Summer's Search foe Sir John Franklin, wtth a Pass into ^he Polar Basin, by Commander E. A. Inglefield, in the Screw StejCmer Isabel, in 1852. The profound interest which the heroism and mys- terious fate of Sir Jolin Franklin, have excited in the public mind, occasioned other expeditions to start in pursuit of him^ both from England and the United States, the details of whose adventures are in the highest degree entertaining. On the 12th of July, 1852, Commander Inglefield took his departure in the English steamer Isabel, from Fair Island; and sailed forth toward the frozen realms of the north, to which so many other bold adventurers had already^ been attracted. His O'ew consisted of seventeen per- sons, including two i<^-masters, a mate, surgeon, en- gineer, stoker, two ^ipenters, cook, and eight able seamen, who had beel^halers. The two ice-masters, Messrs. Abernethy and Manson, were already well known in " Arctic Cirles," as having been connected with former expeditions, and as having great experi- ence in the perils incident to adventurous travel in that perilous zone. Tiie vessel was provided with fuel and provisions for several years. On the 30th of July the expedition gained their first distant glimpse of the snowy mountains of Green- land. On the same day the first icebergs sailed ma- jestically past them. Ere midnight the Isabel was completely surrounded by those massiv^. monuments of the northern seas. Already the utmost caution was necessary to prevent a fatal collision between them and the little steamer which slowly and adroitly elbowed her way through their rolling masses. In spite of the utmost prudence, the Isabel occasionally struck^; instantly she trembled from stem to stem, recoiled for a moment, but then again recovered and advanced upon her way. The advantages of a screw- steamer for the purposes of navigating polar seas filled with floating ice, were already apparent at thia M W m PK0QRES8 OF ARCTIC DI30OVKBY. early stage of the expedition. The propelling'power being placed at the stern of the vessel, ana not at the sides, enabled her to worm her waj unresisted through very many narrow defiles, which a steam- ship of ordinary structure, or even a sailing vessel could not have done. On the 7th of August the expedition reached the neighborhood of Fiskernoes, a Danish settlement: and they were there visited by some Esquimaux in their canoes. Guided by these jpilots they entered the harbor on which their village is built. They vis- ited the Danish governor, M. Lazzen, and were kindly entertained by him. A few goats supplied his family with milk, and a very small garden protected from the storms of that climate by artificicial means, af- forded them a few vegetable during the summer months. M. Lazzen furnish^Lthe vessel with some salmon, codfish, and milk. 'l^Presidence of the gov- ernor in this inhospitable region, consisted of a small house two stories high, built in an antique but sub- stantial manner. A D.'inish clergyman visits this ob- scure and remote spot once every two weeks, and preaches to the governor and to the colony of rude Esquimaux over whom he rules. On the 10th of August the Isabel resumed her ^*ourney. She then sailed for the harbor of Lievely, m which the expedition obtained a few supplies of sugar, soap, and plank, which they needed ; but they failed to obtain here e^her dogs or interpreters. On the 15th, tEfly found themselves o S Upernavick, a settlement in which they obtained these necessaries. This Greenland village consists of twp or three wooden houses for the Danish settlers, and a few mud huts for the Esquimaux. In sailing out from this harbor the steam-engine suddenly stopped, and nei- ther the commander nor the engineer was able to discover the difficulty. They were completely puz- zled, until at length it was ascertained that the screw at the stern had caught in a loose cable which floated .aj^' YOTAGE OF THE STEAincS ISABEL. 413 iu the water, which had become wound around the screw BO tightly, and in such a manner, as to eventu ally impede its revolutions and stop the engine. After the adjustment of this singular and unusual difficulty, the vessel continued her voyage. On the 17th of August she reached Buchan Islands, passing in her way innumerable icebergs of gigantic size, which reeled and tumbled in the deep, and occasion- ally split up into many fragments, widi a roar more grand and deafening than mat of thunder. On this day the vessel lost her main-boom ; which in falling on the deck, struck the standard compass and damaged it. In a short time the injuries to both were re- paired, and the Isabel held on her hyperborean way. Having arrived at Wolstenholmo Sound, the navi- gators examined the site of the former winter quar- ters of the '^ Korth ^^r," and had the melancholy pleasure of inspecti^Ptlie lonely graves where the remains of several of her crew were laid to repose. Captain Inglefield and his officers and men went on shore with pickaxes and shovels. The place is called North Ornenak ; and one Adam Beek, a seamen in one of the former Arctic expeditions, had asserted that here Sir John Franklin had been assailed by the savage and starving natives; that here he and his crew had been massacred ; and that here in large cairm they had been buried. The story was an im- probable one ; but Captain Inglefield determined to examine the spot thoroughly, and test the truth of the report. Several large cairns were inde<3d here found, composed of heavy rough stones. They were immediately pulled down and their interiors inspected. But nothing was discovered save a large quantity of tish bones and the bones of other animals, which 6eem to have been deposited there for some future use. In the village itself, composed of a few un- derground hoVels, occupied by half starved Esqui- maux, were found a quantity of seal and walrus fleSti, intended to supply the wants of nature during th^ 414 PB0OBEB8 or ABOnO DIBOOfEBT. nine long months of winter, which these wretched beings are compelled each year to endure. Captain In^lefield determined to continue the thorough exammation of the shores of Wolstenholmo Sound. He did so, and discovered several islands which were not to bo found on any chart. These islands he respectively termed the Three §ister Bees Manson Isle, and Abornethy Isle. During this por- tion of the cruise, the voyageurs had not encoun- tered as yet much of the severe extremes of northern cold. It was still mid-summer, and the trim steamer was able in the absence of compact ice, to sail rap- idly through known and unknown seas, in opposition both to tide and wind. Oh the 25th, the Isabel reached the Gary Islands ; and from this point began the voyage of Captain Ingleiield into untraveled waters, and into regions whicqdpd not been expiored, at least in a northward direcBon, by any of his pre- decessors. At this point, in the summer months, a few wretched Esquimaux manage to support exist- ence; and Captain Inglefield carefully examined their huts to ascertain whether any me^nento of the expedition of Sir John Franklin might exist among them. No article of European manufacture was found, except a knife-blade stamped B.Wilson, set in an ivory handle, a broken tin canister, and several small pieces of steel, curiously fixed in a piece of bone. A piece of rope was also obtained, having an eye in it ; but this was supposed to have drifted ashore from some whaling vessel. No trace of the lost naviga- tors had as yet been seen since the commencement of this expedition. ^ Captain Inglefield resumed his voyage, and as he rapidly invaded those new seas, througn the tireless power of steam, he discovered many new islands, at that [period of the year free from their noionstrous bur- dens of ice, to which he gave appropriate . ames. Oiie he called Northumberland Island, anoilier Her- bert Island, and a third, Milne Island. At tliis point • (5. y(»rACMB Of THE STBAMttB ISikBKL. 41ft a strait, to irliich he applied the name of Hnrchison, opened out in an eastern direction, and invited tiiexn to enter on its exploration, with tempting prospects of discoveiy, Bnt as Sir John Franklin's instructions had been to travel northward and westward from this point, if he ever reached ^t, it was evidently neegiBsa- rj to follow that designated route, if the intention td seek him was still retained. Accordingly Captain In- gleiield was compelled to relinquish the exploration of this summer sea. On the 26th of August the Is- abel reached Cape Alexander, and still boldly steer- ing northward, tno gallant craft passed the confines of the Polar Sea, and was about to make her adven- turous dip into the Polar Basin. The soundings at tliis point were 145 fathoms. It was at this time the hope of Captain I. that from this point lie might find his way to Behring's^Strait, and might discover the missing navigator somewhere upon this remote lino of traveL Even in this distant northern latitude, the weather still remained fair and temperate. The splendors of that clime in mid-summer, transcend the power of language to depict. The sun, shooting his unob* structea rays far into the northern hemisphere, tinges the boundless fields of half melted snow with crimson hues; and a brightness and brilliancy fill the heav- ens, which almost remind the observer of the boasted beauties and charms of an Italian sky. Those Polar solitudes now resounded with the unaccustomed^ch- oes of the steamship, which glic^od rapidly over half frozen wastes, which sailing vessels could 'tnly have traversed at a very slow and tedious rate Captain Inglefield was now exploring what is know^ as Smith's Sound, the upper or northern con- tinuation of Baffin's Bay. The western shore of this body of water, which forms a part of the Polar Ocean, was composed of a high range of frozen mountains. These were called after the Prince of Wales. The extreme northern point of these mountains received ^le PROORE88 OF ABOTIO OISOOYSBT. '' the naime of Victoria Head, in hofio* of the British queen. Thus also on the eastern shore of this sea, the most northern point discovered by CaptainLhe named after the Danish monarch, Fredenck VU. After steaming several days longer in a north-western di- rectii^n, an observation was made of the position of the Vessel, when it was found that she had reached 78° 28' 21" north latitude. From this it appears that Captain Inglefield has the credit, according to his own computation, of reaching the distance of 140 miles further north than had been attained by any previ- ous navigator. The vessel was now surrounded by immense floating icebergs. The frozen shores of the ocean receded far away to the east and to the wesi. A furious storm of wind and hail drove directly in the face of the bold navigators, as they continueifl their course toward the polo. No trjiftes of Sir John Frank- lin had yet been discovered. To further persist in the course in which they were then sailing, was only calculated to hem them in with the oceans of ice which the rapidly approaching wmter would congeal around them ; and the moment had arrived, in the progress of the expedition, when it became necessary fo determine what final course should be pursued. While the commander and his officers were" deliber- ating on the most suitable decision to be selected, the vessel was suddenly surrounded with perils such as she had not encountered since the commencement of thfe voyage. A vast land-pack of ice had floated from the west, unperceived through the heavy fo^; and immediately the Isabel became involved in its angry, turbulent, and dangerous embrace. The swell lifted the ^ihip far into the pack ; and the violence and fury of tne troubled masses were indicated by the loud, roar of the waters surging on the vast floe- ^ieces by which the vessel was sun^ounded. The friffhtful chaos of rolling masses, tossing the vessel to and fro like a feather in their midst, seemed to render ^cape &om the impending peril of being eithei \ I TOTAOK OF THB BTKAMEB ISABEL. 41T ernshed or submergod, almost impossible. Tlie only possibillitj of rescue consisted in threading their way amid the rolling and tossing fragments, by the aid of the steam engine, after first getting the head of the vessel free from its contact with the ice. As the res- sel carefully and slowly went forward amid the float- ing ice, immense masses dropped astern one after an- other into her wake. She espaped at length thVoush every danger ; though the edges of the fan of the screw were brightened from frequent abrasion against the ice. Captain Inglefield now continued to sail eastward. He^passed by and observed new islands which were theu unknown and nameless, to which he applied ap- propriate epithets. On the 1st of September the sea had become so completely encumbered with the float- ing ice as to make the further progress of the vessel both difficult and dangerous. Captain Inglefield then determined to steer for the purpose of meeting the squadron of Sir Edward Belcher, which had also oeen sent out for the purpose of searching those seas for Sir John Franklm by the British government ; and which would winter there in fTccordance with their inBtnictioitil& Captain Inglefield was induced to pur- sue this course in order that he might carry his sur- plus provisions, stores, and coals to that squadron ; and that he might convey to them the latest news and iLrormation from England. It was his intention then, unless some special service required his exertions, to return to England with intelligence from the squad- ron of Sir E. Belcher, and the prospects of success which still attended their labors of discovery. That squadron Captain Inglefield knew was then stationed. atBeechey Island, and thither he immediately steered. So severe had the weather already become, that the heavy seas which broke over the Isabel continually froze, and her bows became one mass of ice, binding the anchor fast to her side. After several days of rapid sailfiig, Beechey Island was reached ; but the * .'If ^8 PBooBns or abotio mioovsbt. m- Nortli Star alone was found there. The rest of Sit £. Belcher's squadron had sailed, about three weeks before, up Wellington channel, and it was supposed that he had steer^ thence through the open waters beyond Parry Strait. It was on this Island that Captain Inlegfield was shown the three graves of some oi Sir John Franklin's crew, to which reference has already been made on page 876 of this volume. Flungins through the snow which was knee-deep, he reached, under the guidance of one of the officers of the North Star, those sad and lonely resting places of mortalitv. He found them unchanged from what they had been when visited by Lieutenant Bo Haven ; and he was in- formed by his guide that a polar bear of monstrous size was frequently seen keeping his grim an^ cheer- less vigils over the dead, and sitting on tho graves. Captain In^leiield picked up some of the meat canis- ters which lay scattered on tne island, and some relics of canvas and wood which were supposed to have he- longed to the missing ships. He obtained from the commander of the North Star all the information ne- cessary in reference t8 the conditio^: and prospects of Sir John Belcher and Captain Kellett, bofllf of whom held commands in^hat squadron. They had as yet discovered no trace of Sir John Franklin ; but it was their purpose to pass the winter in the Polar Seas, for the purpose of renewing their researches in the en- suing spring. As this voyage of the Isabel was only a summer cruise, and as the vessel was neither adapted nor in- tended to confront the overwhelming rigors of the winter season in the Arctic regions, it was but proper that, as the season was now rapidly advancing, Cap- tain Inglefield should resume his voyage homeward, to escape the greater perils which delay would entail. Accoraingly, on the 10th of September the Isabel com- menced to sail in a southern direction. On the 12th she reached Mount Possession. On the 14tf( she was TOTAOB or THB ITEAMKB UABKL fppuidte Oa];>e Bowen. Oaptain luglefield landed liere to examine the traces or a cairn, which was said Mu exist. But he saw nothing save the large and deep footprints of a great Polar bear, and those of the smaU Axctic fox. Here the further progress of the Isabel alons the coast was stopped by the presence of vast fields of ice. It became necessary to press along the edge of the pack, and seek for an opening to permit her to ad- vance. 'Iliis pack seemed to have been collected here by the irtimense icebergs which had run aground on the Hecia and Griper banks, and thence drifted south by the ooiitinual current which existed on those western shorei^. The pack stretched away, as far as the eye could le^^^h, both southward and northward. A storm of snow came on, such as one sees only in Arctic latitudes. The oea also became exceedingly rough and boisteruud; and wave after wave broke over the whole length i/f the vessel. Each plunge filled the rigging and Juuug. the spars with monstrous icicles ; and the waves iroza as they flooded the deck, the ropes, and the sails ; so that the hands of the sail- ors were Irozen fast the indtaat they tonched either of them, im On thellst of September ixMr ^^eath^r moderated, and the Isabel boldly dashed ili^ough the cr^vicea and channels of the pack. Pancake ice was rapidly forming around them, giving the mariners warning that they must soon vacate that k»caiity, or else be frozen in, beyond the power of deliverance, for th% winter. Kapidly the Isabel dashed forward, impelled, by the unwearied power of her engine. By noon on the 23d, she had cleared the pack, had traveled a hun- dred and seventeen miles in twenty-four hours, and found herself in 69° north latitude. Here Captain Inglefield encountered a gale of the itmost fury, which continued during five days incessantly. The ocean waves now attained the size of mountains, and exceeded in violence and fury even those which lash 420 pBoesnt OF ▲Bono Duoomtr. the bold promontory of Oape Horn, wbere the waien of two great oceans roll together in hostile rivalrj. Vast wares continually flooded the decks fore and aft. Torrents of water drenched almost eyery portion of the vessel, carrying the seamen with it into the lee scuppers. The driftmg sleet and snow drove so fierce* ly into the eyes of the sailors, that it was almost im* possible for tnem to see, or to execute orders. Nev- ertheless, the gaJlatit ship sailed manfully through it all, and safely outrode the gale, though with the loss of her spare spars, and the total ribboning of her sails. In order to repair this damase Captain Inglefield was compelled, after the storm lulled, to steer for the nearest port of Holsteinburg, in order to make repairs. This port he reached on the 2d of October, pnring the week which the captain spent here, the aiiniver- sary of the birth-day of the king of Denmark occurred; which gave an occasion for the observation of the peculiarities of the Esquimaux tribes, who here live as the remotest subjects of that monarch, under the superintendence of a governor sent from Copenhagen. An entertainment was given at the house of the gov- ernor. Esquimaux of both sexes attenddl^ danced their native dance% drank their brandy-punch fur- nished both by the governor and by Captain Ingle- field, and became elated and uproarious in the ex- treme. The governor's wife was an Esquimaux wo- man ; and Captain Inglefield had the honor of exe- cuting with her the intricate mazes of an Esquimaux quadrille, to the monotonous scraping of a crij)pled nddle, bound around and held together with divers strings and splinters. On the 7tn of October the Isabel again put to sea, and again she encountered a storm of imusual vio- lence. The helmsman was very nearly Washed over- board. On the 13th the g^e moderated, and the TOTAOR OF TBI Vt^AUIStt ItikBCL. 4SI Tossel then oontinned her way across the Atlantic.'^ No incident worth j of special notice occurred during the rest of the homeward vojaeo. On the 4th of No- vember the Isabel anchored at Stromness, having been absent precisely four months from the day of starting. And although this expedition, taking place as it did in the summer months, was devoid of the i|snal ex- treme horrors and vicissitudes which attend Arctic researches, it accomplished resnlts which were by no means of secondary importance. Captain Ingleneld carefully examined the unknown eastern shore of the Polar fiasin, as far north as 78° 35', thro wine con- siderable light upon the disputed question, whether' Baffin's Bay opens into the Polar JBasin. He alsa' explored the waters of the shores of Smith Sound, in search of Sir John Franklin, but in vain. Jones Sonnd was then examined, with the same result, and he ascertained the probable fact that this sound is a galf having no outlet, except nerhaps by some small frozen strait into the Polar Sea. Lancaster Sound was also visited, and the western coast of Baffin's Bay as far south as the river Clyde. Throughout a coast of six hundred continuous miles, many alterations and additions Are made in the geography of those coun- tries. And altogether, for a private expedition of no very great expense, executed in a small vessel, though amply provisioned and stored, the results at- tained were as important as could reasonably have been expected. Eighteen months in the Polab Begions in seaboh ov^ Sib John Fbanelin's Expedition, in the teabs 1850 — 51, BY Lieutenant Shebabd Osbobn, with the Steah Vessels Pioneeb and Intbepid. In Mav, 1850, this expedition was fitted out at' Woolwich, for the purpose of continuing the search after the missing mariners. The instructions of the British Admirauty to the commander were, that he R 428 PSOGBESa OF ABCnO DIBCO\ KSY. Bhould examine Barrow's Straits south-westerly to Cape "Walker, westerly toward Melville Island, and north-westerly up Wellington Channel. On the 26th of May the expedition approached tha shores of Greenland, and came within view of Cape Farewell. They proceeded rapidly on nntil they reached their ftrst place of stoppage, the Whale Fish Isles. A day was spent here m taking in provisions and fowls. From- this point the view of the shores of Greenland at a distance was picturesque in the extreme. Its glaciers, its lofty peaks, and its frozen headlands presented every variety of shape ; while between them and the vessels, the sea was covered with an infinite variety of tossing icebergs of every possible size and proportion, exhibiting the richest emerald hues, and glowing with the deepest azure tints. The awful silence of the scene was impr«s8ive in the highest degree, a silence which would often be suddenly broken by a distant roar reverberating along the surface of the deep, and among the frozen masses. It was the breaking up of some vast ice- bergs, whose fragments would roll over into the sea, plunge beneath its surface, and cover the spot of its descent with foam and spray. This proo^ was re- peated at short intervals, in every direction of the compass around them, and as far as their eyes could reach. The 29th of June still found Captain Osborn cruising opposite the northern extremity of Greenland. He here be^an to experience the dangers that accom- panied the necessity which he sometimes felt of an- choring to icebergs. This operation is frequently in- dispensable in Arctic regions, when progress in the required direction is for a time impossible. The ice- bergs in consequence of their immense size are often aground, and thus seamen may anchor fast to them in two hundred fathoms of water, without any more trouble than digging a hole in the iceberg, and in- serting a hook into it, called an ice-anclior. This is ^ LIEUTENANT 08B0BN 9 EXPEDITION. 423 attached to a whale line, which enables the ship to ride out under the lee of this natural breakwater, and often thus to escape both the violence of the winds, and the rude shocks of a lee pack. But the dangers which sometimes accompany this process are considerable. Sometimes the very first stroke of the man setting the ice-anchor, causes a por- tion of the iceberg to break off, and the persons em- ployed in the work run great risk of being crushed by the falling masses. Sometimes pieces of ice become detached from the upper portions of the berg, and falling on the ships below, havetinjured spars, and crushed sailors to death. Occasionally these masses have been so immense as even to sink the vessel. On the 6th of July Captain Osborn had his first experience ofthe real perils of the Arctic world. All hands were at dinner when the news suddenly came down from the deck, that a vast body of ice was ap- proaching under the pressure of a strong southerly gale. A heavy brown vapor preceded it, under whiCi. the ice gleamed fiercely, and the floes were rap- idly pressing together. The best security against danger in cases of this kind, is the preparation of docks in cthe body of the ice, which are cut in the portion which is firm and solid. Into these the ships are then inserted, and they are thus protected from the collisions of the loose fragments. In this case one hundred persons were instantly on the solid ice^ their triangles were rigged, and their long ice-saws were at work. A bundled manly voices accompanied their labor with the jolly sailor sonffs of merry old England. The ice was about three leet in thickness, and the saws employed were ten feet in length. Very soon the vast cavity intended to receive the ships began to take form and shape, and they then were removed into them. The relief was niuch needed; for the pressure of the pack extended itself some ten miles to the north of tne position of the vessels ; the col- lisions between the noes and the iceberg became pro* ,4>' m 124 PB0QBRS8 OF ABOTIO DIBOOVBRY. digious ; and had the ships been between them, they would inevitably have suffered severely. But safely ensconced in their docks, the expert seamen could gaze with pleasure at the sublime spectacle presented lor many miles on either side of them. In spite of the vigilance of Oa^t Osborn, his ships became entangled on the 20th oi July, in the midst of a heavy pack, six feet in thickness. So great was the pressure that every plank and timber was crack- ing and groaning. The vessels wore thrown over on their sides, and lifted up bodily, the bulkheads crack- ing, the decks arclting from the strain, and even the scupper-pieces turning out from their mortices. The ice was rapidly piling up as high as the bulwarks, around the vessels. Thero seemed to be no possible remedy against the destruction of the ships. The sailors quickly brought their bundles of clotlies on deck, for the purpose of taking refuge on the ice. At this moment a deep dent in the side of the Pion- eer, and the breaking of twenty-one of her timbers, indicated her great danger. But fortunately, at the very moment when it was thought that she must be crushed to pieces, the strain of the lioe-edge suddenly eased, and the ship was saved from destru(^|on. From the 20th to the 31st of July the squaciron con- tinued to pursue their route ; yet so impenetrable was the ice, that but seven miles was made during the whole of that interval, in the right direction I By the 13th of August the squadron liad passed through Mellville Bay, and had reached Cape York. They were still a considerable distance from the chief point of research. Yet here they were detained for two days in chasing up the groundless fabrication of Ad- am Beek, alluded to in the previous article, in refer- ence to the destruction of Sir John Franklin and his crews at this ^oint, by the native Esquimaux. On the 15th of August Oaptain Osbom struck west- ward, and entered a wida sea of water which seemed unobstructed by the ice. The ebores of this portion ..asr- LTUUnjNAMT OSBOBM's EXPEDITlQlN. 425 of Baffin's Bay, which is termed the "West Land, ap- peared to be frco from snow, and to be even compar- atively verdant and genial. At Button's Point the commander landed, and was able, at this season of the summer, to kill both deer and salmon. The na- tives of this region had here erected numerous un- roofed winter houses, of the rudest structure; and the navigators discovered many cairns, standing gen- erallv in pairs. These were instantly pulled down, for the purpose of discovering their hioden contents. Nothing however was found of a suspicious or sug- gestive nature. These cairns seemed to be nothing Dut marks erected by the Esquimaux, to enable them to discover, on the return of winter, the places where they had stored their sea-blubber cctcM, A ring of stones several feet high were all the indications of these Esquimaux huts which appeared above the sur- face of the ground. It was on the 22d of August that this expedition entered Lancaster Sound. This is the great gate-way to those Arctic waters, around which so many thrill- ing associations cluster of maritime adventure, suffer- ing, and discovery. It was lirst explored by the bold Baffin, two hundred years ago, and was named by him after the duke. of Lancaster. Baffin termed it a sound. Sir John lloss, forty years since, discovered that it was a bay ; and Parry, who has not unfitly been termed the prince of Arctic navigators, until the vastly superior abilities and services of the im- mortal Kane justly deprived him of that honorable eminence, explored this bay throughout the extent of 600 miles toward Behring's Straits. j. i It was to complete the exploration of the remain- mg 600 miles of this unknown region, that the expe- dition of Sir John Franklin and his 140 gallant asso- ciates had been devoted. Hence in pursuing this line of travel and adventure, Lieutenant Osborn justly supposed that he was following the most prob- able and most certain course to ascertain the fate of 420 1PB0GBBS8 OF ABOTIO DISOOVERT. that lost and unfortunate expedition. He had al- ready discovered one important fact in reference to the phenomena of the Arctic regions ; or if he had not absolutely discovered it, he ascertained its cer- tainty. This was that the iceberg, the most wonder- ful peculiarity of those climes, is the creation of the glacier. It had formally been supposed, even by the most learned, that the iceberg was the accumulation of the ice and snow' which the lapse of ages had pro- duced ; that a vast circle of ice many miles in height and depth, surrounded the pole like an eternal belt; that these huge cupolas of ice towered far up into the cheerless neavens of the north ; transcendmg in size and altitude the utmost creations of human arch- itecture ; and that these stupendous icebergs were merely fragments which had become detache(L proh- ably by their own weight, from the parent mads, and had then floated away into more southern seas. This fanciful conception has now been exploded ; and it is proved that the iceberg is only known to exist where there is land of a nature adapted to form the glacier. Accordingly, Captain Osborn reasoned that where icebergs burdened the ocean, glacier lands could not be far distant ; and he directed the move- ments of his exploring squadron accordingly. It was by following this principle that Sir James Boss dis- covered the circumpolar continent of Queen Yicto- ria's Land, in the Southern or Antarctic hemisphere. On the 26th of August the ships entered Eegent's Inlet. The nights were only two hours in duration. Kext day a pack of ice was discovered some 10 miles to the eastward. They instantly sailed westward, giving the intruders very wide sea-room. They soon reached Beechey's Island, on which the three graves of Sir John Franklin's seamen were to be found, and other evidences which showed that he had sojourned there during 1846-4:(), the first winter of their ab- sence. This circumstance confuted the opinions of those who held that Sir John Franklin had perished in the de and prov mote poi Beechey'i ful trace of a gar( borders < emones, nial dim Bome trai garden tl ered. 1 embanki been stu( enclosur some wo hoase ha preserve which hi Whaled a pair oi to dry b small st( being s' there, hi ever sin tail of Sir J eye, an These g gnch as departe wnethe girded of the They a quiet i where the hu: LIEUTENANT OSBOSN's EXPEDITION. 427 in the depths of Baffin's Bay on his ontward voyage ; and proved that he had advanced safely to a very re- mote point in Arctic travel and discovery. On Beechey's Island Captain Osborn saw another mourn- ful trace of Sir John Franklin. It was the remnant of a garden, with a neatly shaped oval outline, the borders carefully covered with moss, lichen, and an- emones, which he had transplanted from a more ge- nial clime ; and these even yet continued to show some traces of vitality. At some distance from this garden the foundations of a store-house were discov- ered. These consisted of an interior and exterior embankment, into which oak and elm scantling had been stuck, as supports to the roofing. "Within the enclosure some empty coal-sacks were found, and some wood shavings. It is probable that this store- house had been constructed by Sir John Franklin to preserve a portion of the abundant provisions with which his decks had been encumbered when he left Whale Fish Islands. Captain Osborn also discovered a pair of Cashmere gloves which had been laid out to dry by one of the lost crews ; on each of which a small stone had been placed to prevent them from being swept away by the wind. They had rested there, having been probably forgotten by their owner, ever since 1846 1 Again on this occasion were the three lonely graves of S;r John Franklin's seamen scanned by a sailor's eye, and wept over by those gallant adventurers. These graves are simple and neat in their appearance, such as British sailors erect over the bodies of their departed messmates, in every (quarter of the globe, whether in the frozen zones of the north, the coral- girded isles of the south, the verdant and spicy vales of the east, or the gold-gifted clinaes of the west. They are graves which remind the observer of 8om9 quiet church-yard in England or in our own land, where the departed sleep beneath the very eaves of the humble sanctuary, suryp^nded by the gree« tarft % 423 FBOGBESS OF ABOTIO DISOOTEBT. the waving grass, and the blooming rose, with which the hand of affection, or the undisturbed fraitfulness of nature has surrounded them. One grave of the three is especially suggestive of mournful thoughts. It is that of " J. Hartnell, B. A., of the ship Erebus; died January 4th, 1846. Aged 25 years." Here was a youth who had been reared amid the classic shades and the ennobling associations of one of En- gland's great universities — either a Cantab or an Ox- onian — and strange to say, he was destined to lay his form to take its long last sleep in the lonely and cheer- less solitude of that frv>zen zone ; and that, too, in the prime of his years, and far distant from all that was connected with the brilliant hopes of his youthful days! When about to leave Beechey Island, Capt^^in Os- bo-:n found it difficult to determine what course should be taken. It was evident that Sir John Frank- lin had selected one of three routes, in 1846. The first was south-west by Cape Walker; the second, north-west by Wellington Channel ; the third, west by Melville Island. Vague reports were current among the crews, that some of Captain Penny's peo pie had seen sledge-marks on the eastern shores of Erebus and Terror Bay. Captain Osborn determined in person, first to explore Beechey Island, in that di- rection. He landed on the north shore of Union Bay, at the base of the cliffs of Cape SJencer, and soon discovered a deep sledge-mark which had been cut through the edge of one of the ancient natural terraces on the beach. It was in a line between the cairn of meat cans which Franklin had erected on the northern spur of Beechey Island, to a valley be- tween the Capes Ennes and JBowden. From its ap- pearance, it had been evidently an outward-bound sledge, and its depth denoted that it was heavily la- deiv It was an additional evidence of the former presence of Franklin on that island. Upon further examination^ various other sledge-marka were dia- LIEUTENANT OSBOBN'b EZPEOmoir. 429 covered on the island. At one spot they were vwy numerous, and proved that there a rendezvous had been appointed for the purpose of landing some of the contents of the ships. From this point some of the sledge marks ran northward into a gorge through the hills ; others were directed toward CaswelPs Tower, a singular mass of limestone rock, on the shore of Ead- stock Bay, which served as a useful landmark to all vessels approaching either from the east or the west. Captain Osbom here divided his party, and each followed the sledge-marks in an opposite direction. He discovered the site of a circular tent, which had evidently been constructed and used by a shooting party from the Erebus or Terror. The stones which had been used to confine the canvas to its place, lav around. Several large stones well blackened witn smoke, indicated where the fire-place had been ; and porter-bottles, meat-cans, pieces of paper, and feath- ers, were strewed about. Yet no written line or mark was detected, to throw any light on the great mystery which occupied their minds. After seven hours of hard walking. Captain Osborn and his men returned to the ships. Such were all the traces which the utmost industry and scrutiny could dis- cover of Sir John Franklin, in this last known spot of his habitation. From the Ist to the 4th of Sep- tember the ships lay waiting for an opening in the iixed ice, to enable them to resume their voyage. At length on the 5th, the appearance of the ice and the direction of the wind being favorable. Captain Os- born immediately gave orders to proceed across Wel- lington Channel toward Barlow Inlet. Before this course had been pursued for any dis- tance, the channel became blocked up with a vast field of floating ice. A northerly gale began to blow furiously over its surface ; and the ships of the squad- ron were swept along with the ice, in whose embrace they were, out of the channel toward Leopold Island. The a'iuadron drifted at the rate of a mile per hour, 27 -^?f ■ "V' A80 FBOGBBBB OV ABOTIO DnOOTEBT. toward the south-east. Suddenly an opening in the pack occnrsed, and the steam-engine was instantly Drought into requisition, to enable the seamen to ex- tricate themselves. Soon they reached again the open jg^ater ; and found themselves near the squadron of Captain Penny, and the American vessels, com. manded by De Haven. These were then making sail under a fall press of canvas for Cape Hotham. When in this position on the llth of September, 1860, the Arctic winter descended on the adventur- ers. The heavens becamf overclouded with black- ness, and the atmosphere filled with hail, snow, and sleet. A heavy sea began to roll, and the loose frag- ments of the rapidly congealing ice again to close around them. A snug harbor was happily discov- ered for the winter, between Capes Hotham and, Mar- tvr, on the south side of Comwallis Island. Here the Pioneer and Intrepid were taken and secured. Several parties were sent out to carry provisions and establish depots on the intended routes of the differ- ent expeditions which would explore this region in the spring of 1851. Lieutenant McClintock carried out a depot toward Melville Island, and Lieutenant Aldrich, taking another toward Lowther Island. Lieutenant Mecham was also sent to examine Com- wallis Island, between Assistance Harbor and Cape Martvr, for traces of the progress of Sir John Franklin. Captain Osborn determined to embraee this op- portunity to connect the search from the spot where LieiUenant Mecham left the coast, to the point at which Lieutenant McClintock again took it up, thus completing the survey of this wht»le region, through which it was very naturally inferred that Sir John Franklm had passed. He started on the 10th of Oc* tober, provided with five day's provisions. » The party consisted of six persons. The thermometex was six degrees above zero, and accordingly they did not Butter from the severity of the \veathQr. After a ^ \ ^ / oifit .dfc: LQEDTENAMT OSBOBm's EXF^DIHON. 481 inarch of three honrs thej came to Gape Martyr. Striking inward on Oomwallis Island, Captain Os- born came suddenly in view of a structfire which at onco excited the utmodt interest, with the hope that it might be some imknowp .monument of the lost navigators. ' It was a rouna, conical-shaped building, twenty feet in circumference at the base. The apex had fallen in, but the height of what remained was five feet six inches. It was well built, and those who had reared it seemed to have well understood the strength of the arched roof, to resist the weight of the. immense amount of snow which falls in those regions. Much skill was exhibited in the arrangement of the slates of limestone with which the building was con- structed. The stones of the apex which had fallen within the walls were quickly removed, but they dis- covered nothing which could enlighten them as to the origin of the structure. Yet it was evident from the thick moss which adhered to the walls, that it was not of recent origin, and that in fact it must have been built many years before the date of Sir John Franklin's voyage. The position of this mys- terious monument was lonely in the extreme. It seemed to be a solitary landmark in that polar world, of the former and transient abode of some unknown visitant ; and it bore clear evidence that it was not the product of the labor of the rude Esquimaux, who sometimes in their summer wanderings reached even these remote latitudes. ^N^othing more of interest was discovered on CornwaUis Island; and Captain Osborn returned to his ships. On the 17th of October the commander of the ships which composed this squadron, determined that as soon as they could commence operations in the en- suing spring, Captain Fenny was to continue the ex- ploration of Wellington Channel, while Captain Os- Dorn was to continue his researches toward Melville Island, and from Cape Walker toward the south-west With the settlement of this arrangement, a^the la> ^^3 pmooBBss OF ABono nuoovnrr. Hon of the squadron for the year 1850 closed, as the Gtmost rigors of a polar winter were now upon them. The upper decks were then eovered in. The stoves and warming apparatus were set to work. The boats were secured on the ice. All the lumber was re- moved from the upper decks. The masts and yards were made as snug as possible ; and rows of posts fwere placed between the ships, to designate the way amid the darkness and storms of winter. Holes were cut through the ice in order to obtain a ready supply . of water in case of fire ; and arrangements were made to ensure the cleanliness of the sliips and the crews. On the 8th of November several officers ascended the heights of Griffith's Island, and at noon caught the last glimpse of the sun, which they were destined to see, for some months ; though it was then If miles below the horizon, and the rays which they beheld were those only of refraction. The precise poiition of the vessels was 74^° of north latitude. Though the sun had ceased to visit those Arctic heavens, it must uot be supposed that the bold naviga- tors were in darkness. The southern horizon was il- lumed each day during several hours at noon, by a deep and rosy red light, mixed with pihk and bine. Toward the north the prevalent appearance of the heavens was a cold, bluish-black. During the rest of the twenty-four hours, a gray twilight pre vailed around them, except when the moon was full. At that pe- riod a subdued splendor was cast over the frozen face of nature, which finds no parallel in the natural phe- nomena of other and more favored climes. The love- liness of an Arctic moonlight none can know, save those who themselves have seen it. Thus shut out from all the world, the adventurers endeavored to wear away the monotonous months of winter. The festivals of Christmas and New Yeai were observed with unusual glee and festivity, with such means as w^re within their reach. Sometimes • the weather was too severe to permit any communi- LoxmaAjn ooosn's bzvkditxon. 488 cation between the vessels. Dnrinff a portion of the time, the snow was drifted to such immense heights around the ships, that it. excluded all yiew of the sur^ rounding wastes. The vessels onlj three hundred yards distant from each other, were often invisible, f^requently as the fhrions storms of the north swept over the sorronndinff ice for many miles, the floor vi- brated and trembled with the violence of the shock, and communicated this singular motion to the vessels. The aurora borealis alone disappointed those who were connected with this expedition. It was deficient ip brilliancy of color. It was also inferior in extent to what they anticipated. The series of concentric Mini-circles of liffht were subdued by dark spaces between them, which diminished its luster and gen- eral splendor. The snow fell almost incessantly. When heavy ^es blew the vessels were nearly smothered ; and vast drifts 15 feet thick above the decks, had to be removed by the continual labors of the seamen. Amid . uch scenes as these, the long winter slowly passed away. Early in March the crews began to stir. On the 11th of that month the thermometer was 41° below zero; and yet this temperature was not considered as too severe for active operations. On the 4th of April, 1851, preparations were made to travel on sledges^or the purpose of pursuing the inland searches. Captain Omraaney was directed to cross Barrow's Strait and Cape Walker. Lieutenant Aldrich was sent with two sledges and 14 men toward the unknown channel of Byam-Martin Island. Lieu- tenant McCormick was dispatched to Melville Island, to prosecute his researches as far as Winter Harbor, with two sledges and 13 men. Other officers were senrin other directions ; mtUcing in all fifteen sledges, manned by 105 men, who were thiis distributed in various directions, in order to obtain information and indications of the career and fate of the squadron of Sir John Franklin. ,-'*rf.^~!'^..-: 484 ntoeami of ▲botio i>isootsbt. M«> It was the 12th of A]xril when these expedition! started forth from the ships. Our space forbids ui to follow all their adventures, which were exciting and perilous in the extreme, over vast tracts of snow and ice, of the most monstrous and irregular shapeB. The whole coast of Gape Walker's I^tnd was Bur- yeyed. Hany of the seamen became snow-blind, and many had frozen feet. Thej beheld yast tracts of snow-covered land hugged by the icy seas, over which a silence and solitu^ sullenly brooded, not unlike that of a primitive chaos. Most of the sledge parties accomplished ioumeys of 500 miles, in various direc- tions, auring the fifty da^s the expedition lasted. Af - ter tue lapse of this period, or nearly so, all the pa^ ties returned to the ships. Some had searched the whole western coast of Bathurst Island. Som^a had been to Winter Harbor, Bushman Gove, and Cape Dundas. Others had explored the whole eastern coast of Mellville Island. In eighty days the compa* 'Uy under Lieutenant McClintock liad traveled 800 miles, dragging their sledses containing their proyis- ions after them. He and nis men had performed the greatest labor of any of their associates. Yet no- where, amid all these various researches, in every possible and available direction, had the least trace been detected of Sir John Franklin, no tradition of his presence, no monument or gy^dence of his fate ! On the 14tb of August, 185x|the vessels steered for Jones' Sound, which they entered on the evening of the 15th. This sound was discovered to be the narrowest about the entrance. The scenery of the shores is magnificent. Ten miles inland a huge dome of pure white snow ascended to the height of 4,000 feet, presenting one of the most singular m[)ec* tacles wluch could well be imagined. Eeacning Cape Hardwicke, which was discovered to be in fact a group of islands, they struck eastward toward Cape Ouireooe, which seemdd to be the utmost limit of the land in that direction. Proceeding onward in their UBUTUNANT 06B0BN*8 BKPKDmON. 485 Bontbem route, tlie eqiiadron eoon came in sight of Gary Isles, and then of the flat-topped region between Cape York and Dudley Digges. The steamers then rapidly advanced on tlieir nomeward wajy. On the '>''th of August thoy reached Wolstenholme Island. Here thev were stopped by the floating ice : and an- chorinjil &t to an iceoerg, they awaitea the first open- ing wbieh might occur. Here began tracer again of tho noraade Esquimaux; and thus they seemed to have returned to communion with the rest of man- kind. By the 1st of September the vessels still re- mained closely packed m the ice ; and nothing ap- peared to the view from the mast-head, except the boundless horizon of the frozen ocean. It was nev- ertheless necessary for Captain Osbom to make a bold push of some description, to be released from his conlinement, for starvation itself might soon surprise Lis associates in their imprisonment. In a day or two a fortunate slackening of the ice encouraged them to attempt on entering. So difficult and slow^ was their progress, tliat they did not advance more than the snip s length during the period, and after the labors, of an hour. By dint of constant screwing ^ and heaving, however, some advance was made. ^ Gradually the sea became more open ; and then tho powers of the steam-engine were brought into play. A moment's further delay might have- secured their detention for the whole winter, in those inhospitable and frozen climes. After a day of excessive exer- tions, the ships had wormed their way through the floating ice to the open sea which lay to the south of it, and thus again were free. On the 5th of September the squadron commenced its unobstructed voyage of return to England. In eighjidays they reached the latitude of Cape Fareweh, and at length safely anchored at Grimby, in the Elver Humber, precisely three weeks after the com- mencement of their homeward- bound voyage. The expedition had indeed failed either to rescue Sir John T\ me ^.PBOOBEBS OF ABOTIO DISOOTBBT. # Franklin, or even to soive the great mystery of Mi .fate; nevertheless it had made '^assurance doubly isure" tbat he had not been lost in the regions which they had visitoi, but that he must have proceeded on Lis adventurous way to a very remote and une- qualed extreme of northern latitude. It ascertained inat, if he had perished at all, he had perished in the execution of one of the boldest and most desperate resolutions ever entertained by man, to explore if possible, the utmost limits of the accessible earth; and to arrive as near to the Korth Pole as it was pos- sible for human heroism, endurance, and determina- tion to approach. But other interesting and valuable researches were made by this expedition, which deserve notice. These established the fact that the Esquimau^ tribes which now inhabit portions of the Arctic Zonie, were once very numerous along the whole northern shore of Barrow's Straits and Lancaster Sound, and that for< merly the Esquimaux were among the most widelj ^ diffused races on the earth, so far as superficial ex- tent is concerned. From Melville Island on the west, to the isolated inhabitants of Northern Greenland, ' called Arctic Highlands, many strange and ancient remains were discovered in various sheltered nooks and corners on the shore, such as rude houses, cach^^ hunting posts, and graves, which clearly proved that inhabitants once dwelt in this sad and solitary clime, who have now either become exterminated, or have emi^ated to some more genial region. The origin of this people seems to have been in the north-eastern extremity of Asia ; for on the banks of the Lena and the Indigirka, and along the whole extent of the frozen Tundray which faces the Polar Seas, as I well as in Kew Siberia, the same species of circular Btone huts, the same whalebone rafters, the same rude axes made of stones, and the same primitive imple- ments of the chase, are still found to exist, and are nsed alike by the Esquimaux of Hudson Straits and i«iKD3VNijrr oabobn's vaavosaosx. 487 GreenUnd, the Innnit of Iforth Amoriea, and the Tcbuktcbes of Behrine's Straits. It is probable, there- fpre, that these peojue first reached the American continent firom the east of Asia. The Tchnktches are the only tribe of Siberia who have maintained their independence ; and have defied, assisted by the hor- rid rigors of nature, the overwhelming power of Kus- Bia. The other tribes of Siberia narrate how one of the races called by them the Omoki, whose homes were as numerous on the banks of the Lena as the stars of an Arctic night, did formally remove to unknown regions; supposed by them to be in a north-eastern direction. They also tell of an- other tribe, termed the Onkillon, who, having been attacked by the Tchuktches, took shelter in a dis- tant land to the northward from Cape Jakan. This laud has now been found actually to exist in that direction. These people eventually reached the shores of Da- vis' Straits and the Atlantic Ocean ; and some c^^ them even advanced as far as Lancaster Sound, aloii^ the Parry Group. Compelled by the necessities of food, and attracted by the proaucts of fishing and hunting, they eventually reached Behring's Straits ; and thus this unfortunate race extended over a vast proportion of those inhospitable but habitable realms which lie nearest to the x^ole. Among the proois of this fact furnished by the researches of Captain Os- born's expedition, may bo mentioned the following : Ruins of the description already mentioned, were foi^d between Bathurst and Cornwallis Land, on the whole southern shore of Cornwallis Island, on Capes Spencer and Biley, on Badstock Bay, Ommaney Harbor, Cape Warrender, and on the shores of Jones' Sou^d. Formerly, also, many Esquimaux lived even at thie head of Bamn's Bay. On the coast northward of Cape York, many deserted villages and dead bodies have been found ; clearly indicating the ex- istence of a people who have now either become ez« MS PBOOBBM or ABCfnO MBOOTXttr. mt tinct, or hare congregated in a less rigoroira locality. All these tribes and races, whatever they may havd been, undoubtedly belonged to the general Esquimaux family, who first originated in the north-eastern ex- tremity oi'Asia. Abotio Sbabobiko ExFEDmoN ; a JoTrBNAi OF A Boat- TOYAOB THROVOH KuPBBT's LaKD AND THE ABOno . ' Sba, in SsAitoH OF Sra John Fsanzun, bt Sm John BioHABDSoN, m 1851. The commander of this expedition was directed by the British admiralty to leave Endand in a mail- steamer for Halifax and New York; and from the latter place to proceed to Montreal, in order to confer with Sir George Simpson, governor of the Hudson Bay company's settlements. He was ordered thence to travel oy Lake Huron to Saut Ste. Marie and Lake Superior, and there embark with- a small crew, and ^■ail along the chain of lakes until he overtook Mr. ^%eily whom it was supposed he would find at Isle a la Crosse. gl^ With four boats well adapted to this service, Sir w John Bichardson was ordered to proceed and exam- ine the extensive North American coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Bivers. Passing the winter at Fort Good Hope, or Confidence, near Great Bear Lake, he was directed in the following spring to resume his joumev, and explore the passages between Wollaston, Banks , and Victoria Lands, so as to cross ' the routes of Sir J. C. Boss' detached parties ; and thence to return again to Great Bear Lcike. It was hoped that this comparativelv novel and untried di- - rection of search, might probably reveal some satis- factory indications or memorials of the fate and situ- ation of Sir John Franklin. , . . The length of this interior navigation to the Arctic Sea from Montreal is about 4,400 miles. Sixteen hundred of these are performed on the Mackenzie BIB JOfOr mOHABDSOir's XXPEllITION. 489 "t • Uiver and its tributaries. The boats employed in this expedition measured 80 feet in length, six in breadth, three in depth ; and were provided with mastSf sails, oars, anchors, and tools; and each weighed half a ton. A crew of five men was deemed snmcienSfor each. Among the seamen selected to man the boats, were eappers, miners, carpenters, blacksmiths, armorers, and engmeers. These four boats properly provisioned, were embarked, together with the men ot the expedition, on board the "Piince of "Wales" and "Westmin-s ster," bound tt) York Factory, one of the posts of the Hudson Bav company ; and there both ships eventu- ally arrived, after a stormy passage, with the boats and their respective crews. In May, 1851, Sir John Kichardson and his chief associate, Mr. Bae, left the honso of Mr. Ballenden, at Saut Ste. Marie, near Lake Superior, and entered on the active duties of their expedition. ^ V^o will omit some details of their travels, as long ab ^'i continue through those intermediate regio^JBjk whi iJ B '0 not directly connected with the Arct^^ Zone ; and which throw but little light upon the pe- culiarities of that remote portion of the earth. The expedition pursued its aesignated i^ute, until at length they entered the estuary of the Ma^enzie Uiver. At four o'clock in the morning they enmrked, and crossing a shallow bar at the end of a sand-bank, they steered between Eichards' Island and the main land. They soon perceived about 200 Esquimaux coming toward them in their canoes, and three umiaks lilled with women and children. It was necessary to beat oE these intruders, who by hanging on to the sides of the boats impeded their progress ; nor were the voyagers certain that no hostile attack was in- tended by these half-starved and importunate semi- savages. As soon as these two parties in the several boats came in contact^ a buisy scene of barter began to be enacted. The Esquimaux had arrows, bows, kniret Uf^ FBOOBaS OF ABOnO DISOOYBIT^ ^^ of copper, or of boae, and articles of tiiAt desoriptioii to 9^1 and for these they received in return kniyes, filesT^tdiets, awls, and needles. The articles ob- tained by the explorers were indeed of little service to them^ipt the J wished to conciliate the Esqui- maux ; andinafimnch as the latter considered a gift without an equivalent accepted in return as an insult, it was necessary to barter with them in order to fur- nish them the articles which they desired. The En- glish boats were mnc^ incommoded by the crowds of Esquimaux who were disposed to hold on to their sides, and it became necessary to use violence some- times to compel them to release their grasp. At length the boat commanded by Lieutenant Clark was attacked by the Esquimaux around it. An attempt was made to plunder it. A struggle ensued between the crew of src men and the assailants, and a mVisket was fired by Lieutehant Clark, as a signal to. his as- sociates for assistance. The other boats then imme- gri^tely wore around, and came to the protection of ^K assailed. Muskets were presented, and an attack threatened by the English sailors ; the effect of which demonstration was, to induce the Esquimaux at once ' to desist from ^l fui*ther aggressive operations, and resume^iendly relations. Thu«p8 the boats pursued their way, they were ac- companied by the Esquimaux canoes. At length as they began to lose sight of the land entirely, we Es- quimaax gradually fell behind them, and returned to their encampment on the shore of the estuary. Dur- ing this intercourse between the voyagers and the na- tives, the inquiries of the former were directed to ob- taining information in reference to the discovery ships* But the natives uniformly persisted in de- claring, that they knew nothing about any white peo- ple, or any ships on their coast. They all denied hav- ing been present in any interviews which took pAace between their countrymen and the navigators of those seas ia previous years. One person alone^ In answer SIB ioas BtOHABDSOir'B ExvEDmosr. 441 to tbo inquiries of Captain Biehardson, declared that a party or white men were living on a neighbQ|;piff island, called Kichards' Island. J^nt as the ^^edi- tion had visited and examined that locality but a day two previously, his assertion was known Iflfee false. Captain Kichardson requested his interpreter to in- form the Esquimaux that he had recently Been there, and knew that he was Iving ; which declaration only called forth a hearty laugh from the Esquimaux, whose only desire was, by a fabricated story, to in- duce the expedition to sojolirn longer in the neigh- borhood, and waste its time in fruitless researches. These Esquimaux are a singular race, and one of their distinctive peculiarities is, that they are strictly a littoral people. They live only on the shore, and they inhaoit an area of nearly 6,000 miles of sea- board. Their habitations extend from the Straits of Belle-isle to the Peninsula of Alaska. Throughout this vast extent of region there is no material variation i n^ their dialect, except what mav be justly termedNproi^ vincialisms. An interpreter Dorn on the east main o^^ western shore of James' Bay, experienced no diffi- culty ill understanding the language of the Esqui- maux of the estuary of the Mackenzie ^although the distance between the two localities was at leastk^,500 miles. Traces of the encampments of this san^ race have been discovered as far north on the American continent as the foot of the boldest adventurer has ' trodden. Their capacity to endure the privations of - these frozen and rugged regions, results evidently* from their disposition to subsist on blubber, and their^ long practiced ability to inhabit houses and huts con-^ structed of ice and snow. They employ drill-timber* whenever it is accessible ; but they can do without it, ^ andean find a good substitute in the fabrieation of' their weapons, sledges^ and boat^rames, in the teeth I and bones of whales, morses, and other Bea-monsters.^ They associate together in large numbers, to engage - in the pursuit of the whale ; and this fact indicate ^ ^:i 442 PBOOBBBS OF ABOTIO DUOOTKBT. ^ the possession of no small degree of natnral hardi- hood and intelli^nce. Those of the Esquimaux who havfi'been received into the service of the Hudson Bay company, at the distant fur-posts, have very soon acquired||||ie habits of their white associates, and proved Eventually to be more industrious, intelligent, and trustworthy than domesticated Indians. Among themselves a great deal of honesty prevails ; and the private hunting-grounds of the different families are secure from all depredations from other members of the nation. But their dekterity and pertinacity in thieving the property of strangers are very remarka- ble. Iney are brave in their conflicts, and are devoid of the pusillanimity of the Indians of the southern zones. All their peculiarities, both personal and na- tional, servo to establish the position advanced in the preceding article of this work, that the vario^g Es- quimaux tribes possess one and the same origin, and that they emanated originally fi'om the north-eastern tremity of the continent of Asia. As soon as the Esquimaux canoes had disappeared from view, the boats were steered toward the opposite shore, at a spot where there were several winter hab- itations of th%^atives. This place is situated about eight miles to the eastward of Point Warren. The buildi%8 are placed on a spot where the water is sufliciently deep for a boat to come close to the beach ; so that the natives may be able to tow a whale or seal to the place where they intend to cut it up. The houses themselves were constructed of drift-timber, strongly built together, and covered with a layer of eaxth. from one to two feet in thickness. Light and air are admitted through a small low door at one ex- tremity ; and even this aperture in winter is closed by a slab of ice. In that case their greasy lamps sup- ply them to some extent with heat, as well as with tight. These huts are large enough to permit ten or twelve people to seat themselves around the iire, built iQ the center on the ground. In winter the im- BIB JOHN BXOHABDSOM 8 ESPEOmON. az perfect admission of fresh air, and the eiiluvia ari- sing from their greasy and filthy bodies, render their abodes not only aisagreeable in the extreme, but also exceedingly unwholesome. Yet these p|||uliaritie8 characterize the whole Esquimaux tribes throughout the whole extent and variety of their diffusion. Havingresumed their route on the 4th of Angnst, Captain Kichardsqn pulled for three hours across • Copland Hutchinsdn Inlet, and landed at length on its eastern shore. This inlp<^^ is about 10 miles m width, and its mouth is c^ 'r. d by sand bank Having computed their pofaicion, .,iey found it to we 69° 44' north latitude ; and the variation of the needle was 58° east. This whole coast is low, though in the in- land, some sandy cliffs were discovered. The soil was soft, boggy, and treacherous, and the whole country was covered over with ponds and small lakes. On the 8th of August the expedition reached Cape Brown. Here they came in contact again witl^^ the Esquimaux. After the usual exchange of article^^ had been completed, inquiries were made in refer- ence to the missing ships. The Esquimaux declared that no large ships had ever visited that coast ; and that these were the only white men whom they had ever seen. It seems that Captain Bichardsc^ had visited this coast twenty-three years before on a coi|>- mercial expedition ; and had then met some of these game people. But they denied having the least knowledge or recollection of him or of his associates. Captain Eichardson crossed Eussel Inlet, and passed Cape Brown. They then reached Cape Dal- housie and pitched their tent upon the beach. This island and the cape are iiat ; but toward the sea there are steep cliffs 40 and 50 feet in height. There are also deep ravines in the interior, produced by the melting of the snows in the beginning of summer. From this point the boats steered across Liverpool Bay, and approached Nicholson Island. They then lauded and encamped off Cape Maitland. The surfa^ of f Hi PBD0BE8S OF ABCtIO DBOOTfittT. * this cape is level, bnt its shores are girt with rugged cliffs 80 feet in height. A frozen surfkce is con- " stantly exposed to view, and permanent ground-ice ia f'very where to be found, twenty inches oeneatU the surface of the soil. Vegetation is very meager and scanty. From this point the expedition proceedied to Ear- rowby Bay, and Baillie's Islands. They landed at the latter place at evening, and pitched their tent to pass the night in repose. They soon discovered a large fleet of Esquimaux canoes approaching in the form of a crescent, in the dim twilight. The object of the natives was to trade ; but as Captain Eichard- son wished his men to have an opportunity to repose during the night, he ordered a ball to be fired across the path of tne canoes. This immediately stopped their further progress ; and an interpreter then in formed the Esquimaux that there would be no barter- ^Hng that night, but that if they would return in the ^^orning their wishes should be gratified. After a short consultation the Esquimaux seemed to be satis- fied with this arrangement and retired. At two o'clock the next morning the expedition resumed their journey, and soon met the approaching Esqui- maux; From them they ascertained that their sum- n|er season here continues only during two months, of which this (August) was one ; that during this pe- riod they have no ice whatever ; and that they car- ried on their black- whale fishing. The extent of their operations usually consists in the capture of two whales during the whole summer — sometimes, though rarely, they obtain three. Sometimes they are alto- gether unsuccessful and secure none. In that case the succeeding winter generally proves to be one of great want and hardship. Their ignorance of the rest of the . world may be inferred from the following incident : -. One of them asserted to Captain Richardson that Cape Bathurst was an island. When the latter denied tihis assertion, the Esquimaux responded with great ■'*■ Am JOHN BIGIIAKDSOn's BZPEDinOlf . 445 sinceribr, *^Are not all lands islands t" At thit point Captain Eiohardson bnried some pemmican and erectod a signal-post. A hole was dug on the top of the cliff, in which a case of pemmican was deposited, with a memorandum explaining the purposes of the expedition. The utmost care was used in replacing the turf so as to avoid detection ; 6jme drift timber was then placed on the spot and burndd ; and a pole painted red and white was planted at a distance of 10 feet. To induce the Esquimaux not to disturb the post, some articles of value were suspended upon it. Soon several Esquimaux were seen running toward the pole ; they quickly stripped it of its hangings; but did not disturb the signal itself. From this point the expedition proceeded to the south-east of Cape Bathurst, along the shore, which sometimes rose to the height of 250 feet. At Point Trail, in north latitude 70^ 10', the bituminous shalo^ had been ignited and burned ; and the bank haa crumbled down from the destruction of the beds, pre- senting a most singular appearance. August the 11th the expedition continued their route along the coast, and at length reached Point Stivens, and on the 13th landed on the shores of Sell- wood Bay. Their next sojourn was on one of the western points which terminate Cape Parry. This portion of the cape presents a singular aspect when approaching it from the sea. It is an eminence 500 feet in height, which far surmounts all the surround- ing region. In the neighborhood of this spot, at Oockea-Rat Point, a letter was deposited withla case of pemmican ; over which were placed fragments of limestones, covered with red paint. It was here that the idembers of this expedition first saw the drilt* ice. They sailed on past Olapperton Island, Point Pearce, and Point Keats. The lirst indications of the approach of winter now began to force themselves upon their notice ; for the sea became covered witii g 28 * iti$ yTBOOWBM 09 ABOTIO DUOOfVSKtt tkin ice, whioh sometimM very essentially impeded their progress. At Oape Parry they still saw traces of the i^qnimaax; they had the nrst severe frost during the night ; and the ice already exceeded an inch in thickness. On the 12th of September the expedition nearly reached Gape Kendall. It had proffressed thus far alonj^ the north-western coast of the Korth American continent^ without meeting any traces of Sir John Franklin. At this point the sea became so obstructed with ice that it was impossible to pursue the jour- ney along the seanshore, although they were still at some considerable distance from the Ooppermine Biver, the appointed boundary of their travels. Cap- tain Bichardson, determined to continue the jouniej by land. The company provided themselvesi with thirteen day's provisions of pemmioan, with cooking utensils, bedding, snow-shoes, astronomical instru- ments, fowling-pieces, ammuniticm, and portable boat, ^ets, and lines. Each man was compelled to carry a load of sixty-five pounds. The boats of the expedi- tion were left behind on the shore, and the tent with a few cooking articles and hatchets, were abandoned to the Esquimaux. On the 3d of September at six o'clock in the morn- ing, the journey commenced. They pursued a direct course toward the bottom of Back's Inlet. The snow was deep^ and advance was laborious and difficult. So heavy was the way that most of the men were will- ing to leave behind them their carbines. At night they halted under a basalt cliff 200 feet in height. The sea was here full of ice. They still occasionally met Esquimaux, whose services they employed in fer- rying them over the numerous inlets which interrupt- ed their way along the coast. Among the Esquimaux whom Captain luehardson met, were, two who are meutionea by Mr. Simpson. One of these was rec- Og&und bv a large wen which marked his forehead; and the otner by hia being crippled, and usingcrutches ■m 90Br MOBAKDtON'l EXPIDinOM. 44r Thej had been very kiodly treated by Messrs. Dease and Simpson ; and they were therefore disposed to be irienaly, together with their whole tribe, toward the white people. The travelers bought skin-boota from them, which proved of very great service. Captain Richardson permitted none of his men to enter their hnts, or to offer any indignity to these harmless and forlorn beings. He himself visited one of their cabins, both for the purpose of obtaining a glimpse of their household appearance, and to pre- sent some needles and other articles to their women. He found in one hut six or seven females sewing, seated in a circle. They were nearly naked, and very dirty. On his entrance they seemed both ashamed and afraid. Captain Bichardson shrewdly conjec- tured that, as these people had heard of the approach of the strangers, they had purposely rendered them- selves as repulsive as possible, by rubbing mud and ashes on their faces and persons. They received his * presents in a friendly manner ; but seeired quite re- lieved when the hardy old mariner took his leave. This is a singnlar circumstance, as illustrating how, in every clime and country under heaven, men's pas- sions, their fears, and their artifices are uniformly and invariably the same ! At length the travelers arrived on the shores of Richardson's River. This river was discovered in 1822, by some hunters of Sir John Franklin's party, and its outlet was then erroneously supposed to be only five miles west of the Coppermine. In 1839 Mr. Simpson explored this river, and ascertained that it falls into Back's Inlet in north latitude 67° 53' 67". Having crossed this river in a small boat of Lieuten- ant Halkett, which could carry but two persons at oncg, they resumed their march. In a short time they gained the summit of the ridge which divided the valley of the Richardson from that of the Copper* mine River. This ridge was now covered with snow. From its summit they saw in the distance the Cop- iiS rBooBHM or ABono Diicomtr.. -• permine ; and at tkreo o'clock in the afternoon thej reached its banks, several miles above Bloody Fall. On the 10th of September the company strack the Kendal River, at some distance from its junction with the Coppermine. They walked nearly three miles along its banks, seekins for a crossing place. No such spot being found, they were compelled to construct a raft, and thus transport themselves over. This raft could bear but three persons at a time ; nev- ertheless all of them passed over in safety. From this point tho^ traveled directly across the country to- ward Dease Biver. Somesnowfell both during the day, and also during the succeeding night. On the 12th they reached a tributary streani of the Kendal River, and forded it ; the ice-cold water rising np to their waists. On the 14th the march took a soutn-western direction. They found the soil cracked, hummocky, and swampv ; and it became exceedingly wearisome and difficult for pedestrians. On the 15th they crossed a branch of the River Dease by fording it ; and at four o'clock in the afternoon the whole party reached Fort Coniidence, the present appointed ter- mination of their journey, and their quarters for the ensuing winter. It is proper that wo should here interrupt the nar- rative of Captain Richardson's expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, by detailing some of the infor- mation which he obtained in reference to the Esqui- maux race — one of the most interesting and impor- tant items of Arctic observation and scrutiny. Wo have already given a few details on this subject ou a previous page ; and the additional light thrown upon it by the researches of Captain Richardson, are both valuable and entertaining. The views presented by Captain R. of this widely diffused people, are, as will be seen, those which describe them as t^ey exist on the northern coast of the American continent — being quite a different locality from that depicted by Cap tain Osborn. lUL jOUN ftlOUiUUMOK'l XXPEDIIIOH. 449 Tbo term Esquimaux is probably derived from th« words, Ceux qui miaux ; or it may havo originated from tbe shouts of Teyrnd which the natives uttered, when theysurrounded the first explorinff ships in their canoes. The sailors of the Huason fiav company's vessels still call thorn Seymda. The wora Esquimaux does not belong to the language of the nation. These invariably call themselves Jnvrit^ the jpeople^ from J-nukf a man. One peculiaritv of this race is that they alone, of all the aboriginal races, are known to inhabit portions of both the old and the new continents. Their lan- guage and their customs, in consequence of the pe- culiarity of their position, have also remained strange- ly unaltered by any contact or collision witl the rest of the world. They confine themselves to the shores ; and neither wander inland, nor cross extensive £eas. They extend alons the whole northern boundary c"^ America, from Behrins's Straits to the Straits of Bell* isle, and along both shores of Greenland and Lab- rador. Their appearance is singular. Their fa r>« are egs-shapod, with considerable prominence in uie cheek Dones. Their foreheads are narrow and taper upwards. Their chins are conical but not acute. Generally their noses are broad and depressed. Their profiles, in consequence of the receding both of the forehead and the chin, present a more curved outline than is found in any other variety of the Caucasian race. Their complexions are not red, but of an inter- mediate hue between red and white. They havo lit- tle or no beards'*; but the hair of the head is long, straight, thick, and coarse. The men u e of medium size, broad-shouldered, and muscular, la both sexes the hands and feet are small and well formed. The teeth, especially of the young girlsj are generally of BupeHor regularity and beauty. The chief subsistence of this extensive race depends upon hunting and fishing. In the spring the opening rivers give them the opportunity to spear and capture /y 160 «PlnloQidKNt OF Ajloiid inlkTOTiR'r. !* the fish which at that period ascend the streams to spawn. Then also they hunt the reindeer, which hring forth their yming on the coasts and islands be- fore the enow is entirely melted on the ground. They also take a large quantity of swans, geese, and ducKB. The months of July and August are em- ployed in the capture of whales ; and when they are successful in this, their own sustenance for the ensu- ing year is secured. During the two summer months they live in tents made of skins, and then they provide ^ Iheir stores of food for winter use. At Knid-Winter they are usually in total darkness. At that period they live in houses framed of drift timber, which are thickly covered with earth. They have no windows in their dwellings, and they enter by a low trap door inserted either on the side, or in the roofs. The floor is covered with rude timber, and they have Ao fire- place. A large flat stone is placed in th6 cen ter which supports a lamp, bv the flame of which they often cook. The Esquimaux nunter can trap the seal, notwith- standing the great acuteness and vigilance of that an imal ; and his plunder also serves to assist in sustain* ins Esquimaux life in the spring months. Ihe summer architecture of this race is peculiar. By that period of the vear, the snow has acquired a Buflicient degree of coherence to form a light build- ing material; and of this material the Esquimaux erect comfortable huts which are dome-shaped, and are often used in preference to their tents. They first trace e circle on the smooth surface of the snow. The sides are built of slabs of ice instead of brick or granite. The summit is composed of similar slabs; and the floor is laid with the same material. Each slab in the building is carefully fitted to its place, y where it becomes congealed and frozen into the solid mass. All the crevices are plugged up, and the seams carefuUv closed, by throwing loose snow over ' the fabric. The walls are only three or four inches in thickness, and therefore nearly translucent ; so •IB iOHm BXCHABDBON's BXPEDinON. 451 that they admit an agi'eeable light to tho interior from witQout. All the furniture, consisting of seats, tables, and sleeping places, are formed of snow, and are covered with rein-deer or seal skins, which ren- der them quite comfortable. Often these houses are built contiguous to each other, with low galleries running between them. These houses are durable, and the sun rarely acquires sufficient strength in that cli le either to thaw or to destroy them. Ihe Esquimaux who live on the estuary of the * Hackenzie river, carry on a traffic with the western Esquimaux from the region of Point Barrow and Benring's Straits, whom they meet half-way between their respective homes on the coast. The central Esquimaux have but little traffic with the Europeans, and articles of Eussian manufacture are never or rarely seen further cast than Point Atkinson. Those who live between Behring's Straits and the Mac- kenzie pierce the lower lip near the angle of the mouth, and fill the aperture with labrets resembling buttons, sometimes made of blue quartz, and some- times of ivory. Many of them transfix the septum of the nose with an ivory needle. Tlie women are generally tattooed on the chin ; and turn up and plait meir hair carefully, and are not devoid of pride in their personal appearance. From this circumstance northern navigators justly infer that more deference is paid to them by tlie men, than usually prevails among semi-barbarous tribes. It is said by Captain Eichardfion, that the unmarried women among the Esquimaux are modest and decorous in their deport- ment; but that the married ones allow themselves very considerable liberties, and that, too, with the con- nivance of their husbands. Yet this reserve, even amoiig the unmarried Esquimaux women, does not exist among the tribes located on the northern coast of Greenland. There both young and old indicated their vicious laxity to the navigators by signs and gestures of the most indelicato fti^d unequivocal na 4..1 j-^ iii^ l»^ I'lCOGUUBS OF ABono disooybbuI tare, atid more than once, wives have been known to ,.be offered to the strangers by their husbands them- selves, plainly and witnout disguise, while the wo- man herself stood by, and freely acquiesced in her . proposed prostitution. . The Esquimaux like most barbarians are excellent mimics. They possess the power of imitating the Gestures and voices of others with great ability, hey also display extraordinary powers of grimace ijuad contortion, and could exhibit themselves in the most singular positions and attitudes. The dress of both sexes is very nearly alike, and conlSists Ot a coat with a pointed skirt both before and behind ; pantaloons or leggings which extend to the waist ; and long , boots made of seal skin, and water tight, resembling moccasins. They have acquired considerably akili in the preparation of whale, seal, and deer skins. These they use for various purposes, some as thongs and lines in the capture ot sea-beasts, some as har- ness for their dog-sledges, and some as soles for their moccasins, which are thus rendered water-proof. They have also invented a light water-proof outer /dress, formed from the intestines of the whale, which they secure around the top of their small canoes, and wliich protects them from the waves of the sea. . They acquire extraordinary skill in the management of their canoes or kaiyaks, and possess the hardihood of fearless seamen. Their dogs and reindeer consti- tute their chief wealth, and are in fact quite indispen- sable to their existence and comfort. The religion of the great Esquimaux race is a sin- gular subject of inquiry, and yet one which furnishes ionly the most unsatisfactory results. Their religious conceptions are simple and crude in the extreme. There is but little to know of them on this point ; and that little is not to their credit. The most prominent idea in their religion is the belief in witchcraft, and in the agency of evil spirits. They worship demons much more devoutly than they worship God. Cer ■IB JOHN BIOHABDSON'8 EXPEDinOK. 468 tain individuals among them profess to posBess a great influence over evil spirits. They believe that persons are killed by sorcery ; that they are and may become the messengers and servants of the devil ; that sorcerers may change the appearance of indi- viduals who are under their spell ; and accordingly, sorcerers are themselves a powerful cla^s among them. Yet the Esquimaux have often become willing and docile converts to the christian faith, as taught them by the Moravian missionaries in Labrador and Green- land. They have readily acquired the art of reading and writing, and displayed no inconsiderable apti- tude for the acquisition of knowledge. The language of the Esquimaux is admitted by the most learned philologists to be similar in its structure to the rest of the Korth American tongues. There seems to be a singular inconsistency between the comprehensive- ness and artificial structure of the language, and its resemblance to that of neighboring Indian tribes, and the isolation of the people themselves. Their lan- guage does not materially vary along the whole im- mense extent of country over which their race is difliused; thus furnishing another evidence of the identity and unity of this primitive and singular people. I et the Esquimaux are divided into several tribes according to their different locations. Those on the southern portion of King William's Sound, are called the TchiigaUchih f and they are located between Behring's Straits and Bristol Bay. Further to the north the Kuakatchewak reside between the island Kuniwak and Cape Newenham. These are neither nomadic nor given to the chase ; but dwell in per- manent villages, and have a strong attachment to their ancestral homes. In each of these villages there is a public building termed the Kashim^ where coun- dls and festivals a'^e held. It has raised platforms around the waUp with a place in the center for th« s* 4M PBOOBESS OF ABOnO DXBCX}TXRT. fire^ and an aperture In the roof for the escape of the smoke and the admission of liffht. The Tchukche tribe who inhabit the shores of the Gulf of Ana4yn, seem once to have had possession of the coast of Asia, as far westward as the one hundred and sixtieth parallel. They are divided in the Sed- entary, and theBeindeer Tchnkche. These are both strong and powerful races, and very much resemble in their appearance the North American Indians. The encroachments of the Kussians and Cossacks have driven them back beyond the Kolyma, into the north-eastern corner of Asia ; but there they have re- mained free and unsubdued by their more powerful assailants. This tribe has domesticated both the dog and the reindeer, of which they possess numerous herds. They are skillful traders in furs and wi^lrus' teeth, which they exchange for tobacco, articles of iron, hardware, and trinkets. They frequently travel on their sledges drawn by reindeer, accompanied by their women and children, their arms, tents, and household goods. Their yearly journeys continue for six months, for they make circuitous routes in pursuit of pasture and trade. Previous to the establishment of the Eussian Fur company, these people yearly traveled for these purposes over an extent of seven- teen hundred miles of North American coast. ^ Another tribe of the Esquimaux are called the Kutchins, who live westward between the Macken- zie and Behring's Sea. The males possess the aver- age height of Europeans, are well tbrmed, with reg- ular features, high foreheads, and light complexions. The women resemble the men ; and Captain Kichard- son speaks of the wife of one of the chiefs as being so handsome, that in any countiy she would be con- sidered a fine looking woman. The women have their chins tattooed, and the men paint their faces both red and black. Their arms consist of a bow and arrow, a dagger, knife, and spear. Eire-arms have \atel7 b^en introduced among them, and are very SIR J,>HN KIGHAKDfiOIv's EXFEDITIOK. 455 inneb prized. Where a man hfta not been able to ob« tain a gun, he always carries with him a supply of powder and shot, and for these he obtains a sbare of the game killed by the possessors of a enn or rifle. This singular expedient exists very extensively among the Esquimaux tribes. The chief men among the Kutchins practice polyg* amy, and have two or three wives, and some even five. Very poor men who cannot support a wife re main single. But it is said that a good wrestlei. whether poor or rich, can always obtain a wife. In winter the w^men perform all the drudgery about the house. They collect the firewood, assist the dogs in hauling the sledges, and bring snow to melt for water. Iney do everything, in fact, except cooking, and that is attended to by the men alone. The wo- men carry their infants, like the rest of the Esqui- maux, on their backs in seats made from birch bark, with the sides and back resembling those of an arm- chair. They even bandage the feet of their children to prevent them from growing, inasmuch as small feet are considered handsome. This custom reseiu- bles that of the Chinese, except that it is not confined to the females. The Kutchins are a lively and cheer- ful people. Dancing and singing are their chief amusements ; wrestling and all kinds of athletic di- versions are' in fashion among them. Their religion also consists chiefly iu the belief in sorcery and evil spirits, whom they endeavor to propitiate through their shamans, who profess to be able to communicate with the unseen world, and to possess the power of prophesying future events. When any one of their tribe dies suddenly, or unexpectedly, the event is al- ways attributed to sorcery ; and some evil spell is charged against either a member of their own tribe or of some neigboring one. Then blood-money is imme- diately demanded, and if it be refused, they do not rest until an opportunity is found to avenge the sup- posed murder by s )me retributive deed of violence Me .'K P&OaBSSS OF ABOTIO DI8Q0VBRV.. and death. An instanco is narrated in wUcli blood •money was demanded and received for several years, for the supposed death of a relative who was after- ward discovered to be still alive. When demand was ^.again made the ensuing year for tlie usual payment, three of the party making it were slain in expiation .of their falsehood and extortion. % These Kutchins are treacherous and warlike; and generally engaged in hostilities with the surrounding tribes. One half of the population of the Yukon has thus been destroyed during the last twenty-iive years. They pass the summer months chiefly in dry- ing the white-iish for winter use. Their wealth con- sists partly in beads ; and to become a chief among the Kutchins, a man must have beads equal in value to the amount of two hundred beavers. In summer when they are traveling they rarely erect their tents. In winter their encampments are usually placed in groves of fir trees, where they either live in huts or m their winter tents constructed of skins with the hair unremoved. The process of courtship among these people is very simple indeed. The lover goes early m the morning to the abode of the object of his passion, and wiuiout saying anything, begins to bring in wa- ter ; to heat the stones which are used to create steam for their bath; and to prepare food. The inmates then ask him who he iS) and why he does this. He states that he wishes to obtain the daughter of the man who dwells there as his wife. If he is not re- fused, he remains as a servant in the family for a year, and at the termination of that probationary pe- riod he receives both a reward for his services and his bride into the bargain. No ceremony of marriage takes place between them. When a man dies, he is mourned by his whole clan. Slavery ex|st»^among them to some extent ; and those who are in bondage, are prisoners taken captive in war, who are often sold j.nd re-sold by different owners, unless they are re BIB JOHN BICHASDSOk's EXPEDITION. 457 deemed bj their own relatires* These slaves have been known to be sometimes sacrificed as victims to the shades of their departed warriors and lieroes. They also possess the art of manufacturing various articles of iron ware ; an accomplishment which they probably derived at an early period, from their inter- course with Bnssian traders. The winter having at length passed away, the trav' elers who composed Sir John Kichardson's company at Fort Confidence, prepared in the ensuing spring to resume their operations. It vet remained their duty to reach Wollaston and Victoria Lands, and thus to com- plete the search in 1' at direction. In consequence of the forced desertion and loss of the boats of the expe- dition as previously narrated, it would have beem im- practicable for the whole party to accompany those who performed this journey ; nor was tnis in fact necessary ; and Mr. Rae, the younger and more ro- bust associate of Captain Kichardson. was selected to perform the service which yet remained. The ability and zeal of this gentleman well fitted him for the task. He had already explored the country between Fort Confidence and the Coppennine Kiver during the winter months, for the purpose of ascertaining the best route to be followed in the spring. Accordingly, in April Mr. Rae, taking charge of the only boat which the expedition stiU possessed, conveyed provisions, boat-stores, and various other necessaries on do^-sledges, across toward the Kendall Eiver, and postedtwo men at Flett's Station, together with two Indians, to protect them. Six men composed the crew of the boat under the command of Mr. Rae. Two men were left in charge of Fort Confidence. Mr. Rae having waited for the breaking up of the ice on the Dease River, hauled his boat thither, on whicbhe embarked on the 8th of June. His ascent of the stream was slow, in consequence of the large masses of ice, some of them miles in length, which impeded his progress. They ascended the south-east* *% 458 PB00BIB8 OF ABOnO DISOOYEBT. u-^p-' em branch of that stream. On the 17th tliey passed over the lake from which the river flows, on the ice. It contains some islands and is four miles in width. From this lake they traveled overland for six iniles nearly dne east, and on the 21 st they reached the Ken- dall Kiver, to which the provisions had been previ- ously conveyed in April. They then descended the Kendall to the Ooppermine Eiver. . At this place they were detained by the ice, which was still unbroken, during five days. They then Sf iled down the Ooppermine to the sea ; and K)und a nar- row channel along the shore of Richardson Bay, where the ice still lay ao^ainst the rocks^ They pro- ceeded on and rounded Point Mackenzie, and entered Back's Inlet, which was then but partially opened. They soon reached the head of the inlet, and at, once sailed up Bae Eiver, which Oaptain Eichardson had discovered the preceding autumn. f^' For the purpose of examining the country, Mr. Rae followed the river for twenty ffeoffraphical miles in- land. It is very straight in its direction, and flows oyer a bed of limestone. Its banks are extremely rugged, and sometimes presented precipices 200 feet in height. The party then returned to the mouth of the river. Their position now was 67° 65' 20" north latitude. They reached Cape Kendall, where they experienced a heavy thunder-stornr "^hich compelled them to land. ' On the 27th tbey continued their course to Cape Hearne. Basil Hall Bay they found filled with unbroken ice from one side to the other. The next day a crack occurred in the ice large enoush to permit the boat to reach an island in the middle of the bay. On tlie north side of this island they found some open water which enabled them to ad- vance two miles further. On the 30th they reached Cape Krusenstern. f his was the most suitable spot from which to de* sert the shore, and commence the traverse or direct route toWollaston Land, passing near to Douglass BIB JOHN BTOHABDSON S EXFBblTION. 1^1 459 Island. This circnmstanco was more fortunate, as the condition of the ice along the shore rendered their further advance in that direction impossible. The party disembarked here and piflched their tents on tiie top of the cliffs, and waited for a more favor- able state of the ice ; which had already commenced to break up. Here they were visited by some Esqui- maux, who informed them tliat they had seen several natives of "NVollaston I^and during the preceding win- ter, and had been informed by them that no European ships, boats, or seamen had ever visited their coun- try. The situation of the party here was ascertained to be 68° 24' 36" north latitude. The ice in the bay wad not sufficiently cleared to permit Mr. Rae to proceed until the 19th of August. Until this period there had been a closely packed stream of ice stretching along the entire snore, and grinding against the rocks as it was di^en upon them by the wind. Having pulled seven milea from land and being yet three miles distant* from Douglass Island, they were met by a stream of ice so closely packed and so rough, that it was impossible cither to pass over it 0^ through it. This compelled the company to return to their former position on the shore. During several succeeding days they pole i their way along the beach, and thus advanced a few miles to the southward. On the evening of tho 22d Mr. Eae ascended a hill near the shore, and there be- held with a spy-glass nothing in the direction of Wol- laston Land but the white ice forced upward by the wind into irregular heaps; while to the east and south-east there was a lar^e -space of open water, be- tween which and the ice-bound shore, a vast stream of ice some miles in length was driving rapidly toward Cape Heame. ;^ There was novi^ no prospect that the sea would opeA so as to permit the frail craft in which Mr. Eae and his men were embarked to venture across the main to Wollaston Land. Winter was then very near ; 400 PBOilurBO OF ABOnC Dl|KX>y£BT. and Mr. Rae was reluctantly compelled to give the order to return to the Coppormine Kiver. In ascend- ing this river to the Blooay Fall, the company met the misfortune of losing Albert, their Esquimaux inter- preter, and one of the most useful members of the expedition. He was drowned in attempting to extri- cate the boat from a dangerous eddy into which it had been drawn. The boat was lost with him Tliey then commenced their journev on foot acrosa the land toward Great Bear Lake, each man carrying a weight of about eiffhty pounds. After seven days' march from the Bloody Fall the party reached Fort Coiiil- dehce, whence the expedition had started. They had failed to discover any traces of Sir John Franklin, and had not even reached WoUaston Land, the pro- posed terminus of their journey, in consequence of the strait bein^ filled with impassable ice. Meanwhile Captain Bichardson and the rest of the men belonging to the expedition, explored Bear Lake and Cape McDonald. They then reached Fort Frank- lin. The only vestige of the latter which remained, was the foundation of the chimney-stack. Thence they proceeded to Fort Norma%; They then em barked on Bear Lake Kiver and descended with the cuiTent to its mouth. Betracing the route which they had pursued in their outward journey during the preceding year, the company eventually reached Methy Lake; where Captain Bichardson received his first letters from England, which had been brought up from Canada by the governor's canoe, which annu- ally leaves La Chine in May. He arrived at Norway House on the 13th of August, and there the men composing the expedition were discharged. The Eu- ropeans amon^ them were sent down to York factory to sail to England in one of the ships of the Hudson Bay companjr. Captain Bich^dson himself returned by way of Boston to Liverpool ; and thus ended this. additional littempt to disccver S'r John Franklin's fate, without CULPTAUr KBinnCDT'B TOtAlB, I 461 having obtained the slightest clue of them ; althongh the putn of search pursued possessed some novel au4 yeryconsiderable advantages in its favor. TiuE Second Yoyaoij; of the Prince Albbbt in Search OF Sib John Fbanklin, undub tub command of Wil- liam Kennedy, in 1853. This expedition was fitted out for the second time by the liberality of Lady Franklin. The vessel was Bmall, but had proved herself, on a former voyage to the Polar seas, well adapted to the ser ice.^ That voyage resulted in discovering traces of the the miss- ing ships at the entrance ot Wellington Channel; and on its return Lady Franklin instantly resolved to equip the present undertaking, with hopes of more complete success ; and Captain Kennedy was invited by her to take the command. ^ In May, 1851, the Prince Albert lay in the harbor of Aberaeen ready for sea. Along the sides from the keel to about two feet above the water-line, there had been placed a doubling of planking two and a half inches thickl|||The bows and stern-posts were sheathed in wrou^it iron, a quarter of an inch in thickness. Her hold had been strengthened with a perfect labyrinth of cross-beams, for the purpose of better enabling her to endure the immense pressure of the ice. The object of this second expedition of the Prince Albert, was to continue the search by way ot Prince Megenfs IrUety an important portion of the Polar region, which neither Captain Penny nor Cap- tain Austin had explored, nor any other Arctic voy- ager previous to that period. The crew of the frince Albert consisted of the commanding officer and seventeen men. Sho was furnished with two large and valuable boats, one of gutta-percha, and the other of mahogany ; together * S«« page 848 of this volume for the details of this voyage^ 29 46d *boAm OW AXOnO DltOOTZXtT. w!t1i Mveral smaller onef. The Tessel wii< « OAFTAIM XENHEDT ■ YOTiOK. 4ei^ fort ; and by the 8th of July they were throe-fourtha of tlieir way up Baffin's Bay, and nearly opposite to the Danish villago of Upernavick. At this village tliev took on board six powerful Esquimaux dogs, and sealskin boats adapted to the Arctio regions. On the 13th, the Prince Albert fell in with the American squadron which had just escaped from their extraordinary drift of eight months in the heart of • the pack, through Lancaster Sound and Baffin's Bay. Finaing Melville Bay completely closed by the ice, Captain Kennedy determined to attempt a passage further south. After four days of difficult and peril- ous navigation, they succeedea in effecting an advance of 120 miles through the packed ice, and reached "West Water on the 2l8t of August. This was a very perilous exploit, and is one which has proved the de« struction of many a bold adventurer in those seas. The small dimensions of the Prince ^Albert seem to have given her great advantages over her more bulky associates. On the 26th of August they were on* Pond's Bay, and were here for the last time visited by a small como^y of Esquimaux. The extreme rarity of the atn^phere in these northern climes, was proved by the fact, that tlie voices of the Esqui- maux could be clearly heard as they approached the vessel, at the distance of eight miles. From Pond's Bay Captain Kennedy steered throush Lancaster Sound. On the 3d of September ne reached Barrow Straits. At this point he attempted to reach Cape Rilejy, in hope of there finding traces of Sir John Franklin ; but after bearing up repeated- ly for the North Land through heavy fogs, snow, and gales, was compelled to abandon tne purpose. On the 4th of September Captain Kennedy arrived at the mouth of Prince Eegent's Inlet, one of the special objects of his search. He there found an unbroken barrier of ice extending as far down the west side of Prince Eegent's Inlet as the eye could see, piled up in dense masses on the shore. The eastern side aaa 464^^ FBOOBE88 OF ABOnO mSOOf KXT. -«» middle of the inlet were comparatively open. This state of the ice forbade farther progress m the 'in- tended direction. They attempted to run into Leo- pold Harbor, but found that also impossible. Thence they ran down to Elwin Bay to iJatty Bay, and to Fury Beach, finding them all closed. They were very nearly involved in the position which had proved the destruction of the Fury — ^in a narrow lane be- tween the shore and an extensive field of moving ice. Being thus excluded entirely from the western shore of the inlet, they were compelled to sail to the oppo- site. After making a circuit of some forty hours along a high and dead wall of ice, they reached Port Bowen on the 5th. Landing here, Captain Kennedy found a few traces of Sir E. Parry's party. These were several cairns, a fire-place of stones, pieces of canvas, nails, and broken pipes. There was here, also, a single ^ve, the lonely resting-place of one John Cottrell, a seaman of the Fury, who was buried in July, 1825, aged thirty-nine. It was still regardod as of the utmost importance to reach Port Leopold, and there oflPqjj^a landinff. On the 9th having crossed the inlet, aworought the ship to within several miles of Cape Seppings, the southern point of Port Leopold, Captain liennedy determined to land with the gutta-percha boat, and four seamen, for the purpose of making explorations. He found a narrow lane of water which brought them quickly to the shore. On ascending the clins on Cape Seppings, the appearance of the ice was such as to induce Cap- tain Kennedy to conclude that very soon the Eegenrs Inlet would become clear and navigable. After an hour spent on shore, he prepared to return to the ship, but found his progress entirely cut off by the ice, which, during his delay, had entirely changed its position. Night soon came on. The ocean was covered with huge masses of ice; grinding, tossing and rearing furiously on every side. To attempt to r^ach ihe snip then, was directly to court destruction * OAFTAnr Kennedy's totage.^ 465 They wero compelled to draw up their boat on the beach, and* turning her over, to prepare to pass the night under her. So intense was the cold that Cap- tain Kennedy was compelled to prevent the men irom sleeping during the whole night, knowing that that alone would prevent them from freezing to death. When the next morning dawned, and they looked out on the troubled sea, they found that every vestige of the Prince Albert had vanished. This position of the captain and his men, was both unpleasant and dangerous. He determined lirst to fall back to Whaler roint, where Sir James Ross had deposited a store of provisions. They found the house erected by Sir James, still standing, and the provisions in good order, consisting of pemmican, chocolate and biscuit. It was now* the 10th of September and winter was upon them. The only remedy for the lonely exiles, was to make the best preparations possible to pass the winter at Whaler Point, hoping in the ensuing spring to obtain a rescue. It was a sad and sudden termi- nation to the voyage, and they submitted to it most reluctantly. They went to work and transformed the launch left there by Sir James Eoss into a shelter, by laying her main-mast on supports at the bow and stern, and spreading over them two sails. This pro- cured them a shelter. A stove was set up in the center of the boat with the pipe running through the roof. This warmed them. They obtained blankets and clothes from the depot left by Sir James; and this rendered their condition moi'e tolerable. Thus their dreary residence in those Polar regions began, with the prospect of a long and increasingly rigorous winter before them. What the final issue might be, they" could not predict. Time alone could solve that mystery. The or\j signs of life which appeared around them, were i few Polar bears and foxes. Happily an unexpected termination was put to their danger and suspense on the 17th of September, t 466 PBOOBBBS OF ABOTiO PISOOVSBT. by the sudden appearance of a party of seven men under Mr. Bellot, who had left the Princer Albert in bearch of the absentees, and had dragged the^ jolly- boat all the way from Batty Bay. It was the third attempt which had been made to discover and rescue them, Dy the crew on board the ship. The joy of Captain Kennedy and his men at this sudden deliv- erance may readily be imagined. They were thus snatched most probably from the jaws of a frozen and mysterious grave which would soon have closed over them. Five weeks had elapsed during their involuntary absence from the ship, and they seemed to possess the magnitude of years to the despairing wanderers. So far distant were they from the vessel, that it re- Suired a journey of several days to conduct them lither. The company then prepared to pass the win- ter in their present situation. The deck was cleared of lumber and covered with a housing. They then built out-houses of snow for various purposes, for wash houses, for a carpenter shop, and for forges. All the powder on board was takj^n on shore and buried in the snow. The winter was to be passed iu making extensive land journeys in all directions, in search of Sir John Franklin. They prepared a quan- tity of snow-shoes and winter clothing. As soon as the ice in Prince Regent's Inlet permitted them to travel from the ships with safety, they commenced their explorations. The first object of inquiry was to ascertain whether Fury Beach had been a point of refuge to any of Sir John Franklin's company, since it was visited by Lieutenant Kobinson m 1849. It was also desirable to form a depot of provisions there, to aid in future researches which might be made in the same direc- tion. They followed the base of the lofty clifi's which extend in an almost continuous line from Batty Bay to Fury Beach. The company consisted of five per- sons including Captain Kennedy. They dragged a OAPTAm KESmSDYB TOTAGE. 467 Bleigii wi^ them, which wa« no easy task, as the gronnd was covered the entire way with houlders and larijo fmgments of ice, which had been stranded on tile Deach by many successive tempests. Theie were also immense sloping embankments of drifted snow, which lay high up against the fa^e of the cliffy. Their entire journey was performed by moonlight, the sun having entirely bidden them farewell before their departure from the ship. Sir John Koss had erected in 1832 at Fury Belich, a building which he had named Somerset House. Many hopes centered around this spot, because it was reasonably supposed that if any of Franklin's party had been imprisoned in the Arctic seas, and had ever come near to Fury Beach, they would have repaired to this well known spot, both for shelter and previa-* 'ons. As soon ad Captain Kennedy reached this house on January 8th, he discovered that all his hopes had been illusions. A death-like solitude pervaded the moon-lit and frozen gloom around them. The eye rested on a surrounding waste, relieved by no sign of recent life, cheered by no evidence of the for- mer presence of those whom they sought. The stores which had there been placed were still in perfect preservation. The house itself had become much di* lapidated by the severity of the climate, and by the rude saliites of those Arctic storms. Thf^ roof was much broken. The inder-staif bad bjon tbrown down by the winds, and had been fjaawed by the famished foxes. One end of the buiiQ^rig was filled with snow. They lighted a fire in 'lie otove .fhich Sir John Ross had once used, and pr jpared their sup- per. After spending a few hours in the careful ex- amination of that dreary spot, rendered still more mel- ancholy by the lunar gloom and the disappoiatment of all their hopes, Captain Kennedy and his men returned after a journey of several days to the i^hi|lt»- No traces of the lost navigators had been seen dur'ng this vidit to Fury Beach. The state of the weather w n 468 F&OOSiildS OF AUOTIO DIi€OV£BY. m during the ensuing month, compelled Captain Ken- nedy to remain in his vebsel. There they wei?e nearly overwhelmed by avalanches of snow. There seemed to be but one gale during the winter arouad the ship ; but that gale blew whcTi she came, and continued tili she departed. It was dangerous to venture forth even for a short distance; inasmuch as the snow- drifts and ^he darkness combined, soon involved the traveler in a whirling deluge which rendered it impossible to see six paces off. A small party were actually lost for a short time, when endeavoring to convey some provisions a short distance from the ship to form a depot. After pro- ceeding a few hours, a furious hurricane arose, which drifted the sno\»- in fearful masses around them. In attempting to cross a bay on their return, they lost sight of the land by which their course was to le guided. Neither sun, moon, or stars illumined the heavens. They knew not which way to turn. They tried the expedient of setting the dogs loose whicn drew the sledge. They all started off at a rapid pace, and afterward I'eachea the ship ; but their gait was too rapid for the men, whom they soon left behind to their fate. They still went on however, sometimes walking, sometimes crawling, sometimes climbing over the immense blocks and masses of ice and snow drifts. At length they reached the powder magazine, and after some further difi^culty, they found the ship. Their escape was accidental; for the men had be- came so benumbed with cold, as to be able no longer to clear their eyelids of the accumulation of snow which had rested on them, and were thus nearly blind. Thus February wore away, and Captain Kennedy began to prepare for the execution of the chief land idurney which had been contemplated bytheexpe- aitlon. The end of this journey was Cape Walker ; fbr it was supposed that if Sir John Franklin had token his departure for the unknown regions to the ^o:^i»-- .fi ir. ♦ CAPTAIN &&2INKDY 8 VOYAGE,, 469 west and south-west, he would have started from this point, and not from Wellington Channel. Five men accompanied Captain Kennedy on this excursion. As far as Fury Beach they were accom- panied by seven persons as a fatigue party. Their provisions, clothing, an d_ bedding were drawn on two Indian sleighs b}' five dogs. They started on the 25th of February, and were accompanied by the whole crew as far as Batty Bay. On the 5th of March Captain Kennedy reached Fury Beach. Here they remained several days, and found the old stores do- posited here by Sir J ohn Koss, not only in a state of good preservation, but also much suoerior in quality to those which they brought with them. These pro- visions consisted of preserved meats, vegetables, and sonps, and after thirty years' exposure to the intense climate of the Arctic zone, they were found to be still perfect! The flour had all become caked in solid lumps, and had to be reground and passed through a seive before it could be used ; but then it furnished most excellent biscuit. On the 29tli of March Captain Kennedy resumed his march from Fury Beach. He had four flat-bot- tomed Indian sleighs, drawn by the dogs and men. They proceeded i jward Cape Garry over a long route of noes and low-lying points. They uniformly com- menced their journey immediately after breakfast, and continued till evening, when a snow hut was greeted, and preparations made to pass the night in it. Their labors were rarely over and repose begun, before ten o'clock at night. On the 1st of April they reached Creswell Bay, and in the evening came to Cape Garry. They thence proceeded onward to Brentford Bay, where they found a dozen Esquimaux huts, deserted by their inhabitants. Here the party divided for the purpose of exploring several channels of open water which extended toward the interior. Captain Kennedy traveled twenty miles along one o^^Jij^fi© phanneJs, W n \\ 470 PBOGBESS or ASUrtXj DI800VEBT. From afcill on whicli he here encamped he saw a broad channel running north-east, which' he at first supposed to be a continuation of Brentford Bay. Its great extent however, convinced him that it was a western sea, and that the narrow passage through which he had just traveled was a strait leading out of Prince Kegent's Inlet. This being apparently a new discovery, Captain Kennedy called it Bellot Strait, after the second officer of the expedition. This water was afterward discovered to be the northern extremity of Victoria Strait, which Dr. Rae had ex plored from another direction. At this point Captain Kennedy determined to pro- ceed in a westward direction, in order to ascertain whether any channel existed there tliioiigh which Sir John Franklin might have penetrated from Cape Walker. ' On the 8th of April he started in pursuance of this purpose. Their progress was slow in consequence jf the i*oughness of tne ice. The men became much afflicted with snow-blindac^s, and were much dis- tressed by the sharp particles of snow drift which were dashed by the furious wind into their eyes. The wide region around them was perfectly level, and Captain Kennedy named it Arrow Smith's Plains. Sometimes the severity of the weather compelled them to remain for several days in tlieir snow-hut. They traveled on for thirteen days without meeting any indications of the approaching sea. This con- vinced Captain Kennedy that there was no passage by water to the south-west of Cape Walker; and that due north was now the most desirable course to be pursued. Following this rurj ; .^e he traveled in that direc- tion for twenty miies over a leve! plain. On the 24th of April they arrived at the bottom of a deep inlet, which has since been ascertained to be the Omma- aey Bay of Captain Austin's expedition. From this point they steered eastward, in order t; strike the OAFFAni KWmSXtTS TOTAOB. 471 channel Bupposed to be to the eastward of Gape Bonny, and by following it to reach Cape Walker. After three days they came to Browne's Bay. At length on the 4th of May, they approached the bold hei^land of Oape Walker, for the attainment of whieh they had endured so much. Here they confidently hoped to find some traces of Sir John ]^ranklin, had he followed the suggestions contained in his original instructions. Captain Kennedy accordingly searched every spot within three miles on both sides of the oape. They followed the windings of the rough ice outside th'e beach. They examined the base of the lofty diflfs which stretch away northward from the cape. Kot a single vestige of the lost navigator could anywhere be discovered. Captain Kennedy now determined immediately to return to the ship. He pushed directly across North Somerset toward Batty Bay, intending to follow the joast to Whaler Point. This route was double the distance of the one already followed; but it was hoped that perhaps it might lead ta some desirable results. On the hrst day they encamped about mid- way between Cape Walker and Limestone Island. They passed by Cunningham Inlet, Cape Gifford, and Cape Kennel. At Cape McCiintock they found the small store of provisions which Sir John Ross had left there in 1849. On the 15th of May thev reached Whaler Point. On the 27th, they left Whaler Point, to return directly to the Prince Albert, and on the 30th their land journey ended by their safe arrival at the vessel. Various preparations for their departure now occu- pied the attention of the seamen. On the 2 1st of July, these were completed ; but they found it impossible to move the ship. The ice had congealed firmly around her. The only possibility of releasing her was by sawing a canal through the ice which still ob- structed the bay. After the hard labor of a week, a canal half a mile in length, and sufficiently wid# to "H- \ , 472 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DIS^OTERY. '»v# permit the vessel to pass was cut through. This chan- nel was then cleared of the ice by the use of Cope- land's blasting cylinders. I On the 6tn of August Captain Kennedy and his crew joyftilly bade farewell to Batty Bay, where the Prince Albert had remained three hundred and thirty days. In Elwin Bay they were detained a whole week by the compact masses of ice which still obstructed the sea. On the 17th, the ice suddenly cleared away, and they then steered for Beechey Island. At this point they met the " North Star," from Eng- land, commanded by Captain Pullen, which had been despatched by the British Admiralty, to pursue the search after Sir John Franklin. Having completed the object of the expedition, as far as had been in his power, though without any very satisfactory results. Captain !^nnedy on the 24th of August bore away for England, leaving the North Star preparing to winter at Beechey Island, and carrying with him the latest dispatches for the Ad- miralty from Commander Pullen. He wished to touch on his voyage at Navy Board Inlet, hoping to be able to ascertain the state of the stores which had been placed there. Two unsuccessful attempts to ac- complish this purpose were defeated, and Captain Kennedy was then compelled by stress of weather, to relinquish that design. On the 21st of September the Prince Albert reached Cape Farewell ; and on the 7th of October, she anchored In Aberdeen Har- bor. Six weeks had elapsed since the commence- ment of her homeward-bound voyage. The entire expedition had occupied the period altogether of fif- teen months. During their winter stay at Whaler Point, many of the men had traveled two thousand miles in excursions in various directions. The expe- dition settled the point, that Sir John Franklin could not have advanced by Cape Walker, but had taken the northern route through Queen Channel and Penny Strait ; and that traces of his fate could alone be r f^ m llg: .t DB. XANE's EZPEDmON. ^ 478 found from the westward or Bebring's Straits. Yet there too, other researches, eaually sagacious, perM- verin^ and thorough, have all unfortunately proved equaujr unsuccessfult Abotio Explorations: the secosd Obibnbll Ezpk- ^ DmON IN SEAKCH OP SiB JoHN FbANKLIN IN 1858, '54, " '66, BY Db. E. K. Kane, in tub Bbig " Advamob." In December, 1862, Dr. Kano re -ed bis orders from the Navy Department at W uiiirton, to con- duct an expedition into the Arct' -' as in search of the great English navigator, lli ''Advance," in which ho bad formerly sailed, wus placed under bis command. He immediately proceeded to select "^1118 crew, to equip the vessel, and to make the other preparations which were necessary. His party num- Dered seventeen picked men, all of whom had volun- teered to try with him the perilous vicissitudes of bis daring venture. The brig sailed from the port of New York, on the 30th of May, 1853; and in eighteen days arrived at St. Johns, New Foundland. Alter providing themselves at this place with an ad- ditional stock of fresh meat, and a valuable team of Newfoundland dogs, they steered for the coast of Greenland. , , The avowed purpose of this second Arctic journey 6f Dr. Kime was, to explore what he believed to be the probable extension of the northern promontory of the peninsula of Greenland. He also thought that the extreme northern headland of this frozen region undoubtedly contained and would exhibit traces of the lost navigators. He supposed that the chain of the great lan£masses of Greenland might extend very far toward the North Pole ; that Sir John Franklin might also have been attracted by this theory, and might have purBued this route; and that by a thorough searcn in that direction, the utmost limits of Whi^ had not yet been invaded or explored by his • Wa IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) •0= u 2.5 2.2 ■UUU 1-25 1.4 III 1.6 ■a 6" ► » VQ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ? N. 4; #5^ 6^ r^ •m ^ pBocufflRSFiBbno iftsoovEET. IWld and ftdvenfnroirs predecessots, som^ light mfdlit iW« dnly be obtained to solve the gteat pnispma which 1^ ebgroBsed the wondei^ of men, but al$0 new and independent discoveries might be made In that un- known region. On the 1st of July Br. Kane entered the harbor of FJskernoee, one of the Baliish settlements of 0reen- laad. This obsomre and kmely commnnit^ is Bnp- ported by their trade in codfish. The Strang^ were Sieedived with simple hfdspitality py M n Lazzen, tiie g&perintendent of the colony. 6ome fte^h. provisions wete here also obtained^ and an Esqttimaxtsthtmter of B(ip^ri<)r skill was enlisted in the service of theparty. fVoeeeding on from this |)ioint, the . other Danish iefttlements of Greenland were sticcessively Visit^d-n, li^htenfels^'Snkkertdppen, Proven, Upernavick; at'the lest of wMeh place»the first Grinnell ex]bedition of 1831 had rested a^er its winter ^lift At length they reached Totlik, the most northern pdint in Gteenland inhabited by hnnian beings. Beyond this the coast mkf be regarded as having been nntil that period, nnes^ldred. From Ydtlik, jDr. Kaile stiQi^red north- ward liowafd Baffin's Makids, which he fouiid then cleAi* of ice Vand passing by I)tick Island, bore &wsi,y for Wil^or JPoint. As no, approached Melville Bay he was enveloped in a thick fog, daring the preva- lisn^i^ of whii0h he drifted among the icebprgs.^ Af- ter a hard day's work With the boats^ th^^W^d the brig away fi'om these nnpleasant and dangerous neighborsw He then detennined to stand wiestwaird, and doable Melville Bay by an ontside pasisage, tin- less prevented and intercepted by the pack. ' In exe- cuting this- |mrpe$& he' concluded, in order to avoid the drillang floes, to anehoi: to an ict^be^jfr Eight hours we^e speiift in the severe labor of isr^rjllm^, heav- ing, and planting the anchors.; 'Btif Scafcelyhad this task b€fen finished, wheni^ aHftetttioi of th6 crew was mUtractedby a lotrd^^raddijig sdtihd t^bft Sm^l frag- ments of ice began ^to d^fst^oflft!. The ship becA^e in .#'' ^^ DB. kane'b SxpKDirioiJ:'^*'*^ m ;»► imutoent peril fW>m theMIIn£fra«>e#^-tlie'# idiTing mountain. Sc&rcefy mid 3^ ca^ hfl ^jd tiie ice-^erg, when l^e face of it descended in fbf upon - the sea) crashing and roaiing Witli a tfaiUiC not unMke that of artillery. / On the 5th of An^stthej' passed thj a tdl spife springing six hiindred f^t into the )i|ayeQ# *hOT«e the l«it>el of tiie water. They sooh "pii^^pn^pes i^lexilider and Isabella/ and iJius entered ;&mta'a Sounds Haviiig reached Littleton l^iiiidflDr. l^i d«leraiilied to Beji^it here a snpply df myiplor and some permanent traces of hi^ toi^^'p 1br in '^dMie it shonld he necessai^ aft^iyat'j|^ M exploring party to discover the fate of j^lf %^h. * the lire^beiflkt was aeeordingly haried hef e, containing a sappiy of pemmiteaii^ blanketEJ, and tudia ititiher cloth. 1?hey «ifideaYored to fortify the precious 40i)o«it from the 4ka,vn (H the Polar be^. And &W <^ this lone- J? 4pat^ the party w'ere stirprised td nn4 the ty^oes of lis^ii^^aiinx life; Th^iriiin^ of stdn^ Hots, and even the fki;sen eorpdes of the dead were discovered; and so-singolar had be«li the action of the intense cold ttpon &e dead bodies, 1^' ihongh they had'probab]iy ooonpied their cheert^si home^ for ^ p^%\ity0xej wer9 stUl not decompoBed. ' ^'> > - •- • The 301ih of Angnst >till found i£e brig and her gallant creiw navigiiting t)te dan^r^us ^p^ ix^QAar denedwateiiSof8nuth'sBf exti^tdlii^ w^ and in^e (me of those narr i I CI •< '« wv>^ ' • •* \ '•v.?„i* j^nP' f- #% T^^ '* mai ikt »f>r.-! COf Ave m^ •■* * f:>!' .t. vtumAxntawLnDmcm, ** m ilmBdon ibo bofti, ftnd empio/ their Ae^g^, l!B simUar eQy:&etiee attracted tneiraitteti^on^ lb which they applied t^epithetof Hawltes. The table-Iahdd here were tweli^e&andred feet high. The psuty coii- tinuedtiieir diffionlt^imddangei'ous Journey U^td'the^ reached some lofty headlands, where they'determfhbd to terminate their escmfsion; These teached ati alti- tude of eleven hundred feet, ai^ overiooked aii ^Xt panse extending^ beyond the eighteen^ pari^l of latitude. The View Irom tifii dt^fatioirwiuf MiPkief ^8 PBOQWBM Qf ABCnO OnOOTERY. .Iby erery element of ffloomj end ebeerkin nufnifl- rcence. Oxt the 1^ tne weatern shove of the sonnd AtFetched away toward the northern pole. To tiie right a ruffgoa and rolling country appeared, which fnded in ue Great Humboldt Glacier. XowMrd the north-east the projecting headland called Gape An- drew Jackson, ap]3eared r and the vast area between .was a sea of solid ice. Farther still, a stream of ice- ^ v1t>erg8 presented their rugged and unseemly bulks to ihe eye of the observer. Having carefully examined the whole country as fu as his glasses would reac^ Dr. Kane determmed to return to the Advance. Winter was now rapidly approaching, and it was necessary to select some ap- propriate spot in which the crew andthe'vessel sught pass its long, gloomy, and dangerous interval, fior various reasons which need not here be detailed, Dr. Kane resolved to remain where he. then was. He had arrived at the conclusion that Bensselaer Harbor would be the most desirable winter quarters; and on the 10th of September they commenced the labors necessary to render their position tenable and safe. They removed the contents of the hold of the vessel to a store-house which they prepared on Butter Island. A deck-house was built on the vessel, in which the diiferent qualities of ventilation, warmth, dryness, room* and comfort, were sought to the utmost possi* ble extent. A site for the observatory was selected. Stones were hauled over the ice on sleages tor its erec- tion. Its location was on a rocky inlet about a hun- dred yards from the vessel, which they named Fern Bock. Preparations were also made, preparatory to the work of establishing provision depots on the coast of Greenland* ^9 advantage of these provision de* poti^ will fq>pear ftom the £ftct that by their ase^^»nee^ expeditions of search could afterward be conducted with the use of sledges and dogs. 7h9 provisions tor the l^^r,^,if taken on the journeyii themselves, form 9^ iieavy a load |% s^^i^y $o embarraii the move *1 .T» mu XAVM iifiDifioimM (^9 moots of the tmvelersw But wbeii they were rekaeed froni this labor, these dogs eonveyed the sledcee «id their occupants on long journeys sucoessAiuyy and with great rapidity on their tours of e;utmin«tioiir On the 20th ef September the first party orgaiUsed to establish provision depots was sent out. Ik oonsisit- ed of seven men. A sledge thirteen feetinleagl^ called the *' Faith," was fiUed with peromiilui, ana was drawn by those attached to it, by means of tiaek- ropes termed rne-raddies, which were passed around the shoulder and under the arms. Hie intended lo- cation of this depot was sixty miles from the brig, on the Greenland coast. As the bold and hardy adven* turers started forth, they were saluted with three hearty cheers by their comrades who remained with the vessel. ^ l!he life of the part^ which remained in the vessel was not devoid ot incident and interest. They made a desperate attempt to smoke out the rats with which they were infested. To accomplish this purpose, a (quantity of charcoal was burnt, after the hatches had been shut downj and ev%ry visible crevice had been stopped. A large quantity of carbonic acid gas was theh generated, and the crew spent one night on deck in order to giye the rats fair plajr. One or two of the seamen made a nan'ow escape from suffocation, by venturing during the night into the fumigated por- tion of the ship. They were also assailed by another peril. A barrel of charcoal by some means became Ignited, which had been left in the carpenter's room at some distance from the stoye. After soine .labor and more anxiety, the fire was> suppressed before any very serious damage had been done to the vesseL The corpses of twenty-eight defunct rats, of all uzes, ages, and sexes, became the ne^ day the trophies of the successful attack of the crew upon their foes* By tlie lOtb of October .the paprty which had been sent to establish the first depot of provisions^ hail beenjbwnt |wenjy J^u^ftnd JO^r ^um was m PBOft] (ff ABOnO OnOOTEFT* imitlj expected. Dr. Ksne at lengtii determined to tteft less monotony of their existence. A fancy ball was {iriDJected, ana an Arctic journal bearing the appro- pHate title of '^The Ice Blink/' was commenced. Thibs the slow and tedious days and nif^hts of their Wniter sojourn wore oni In spite of the intense cold, Dr. Kane continued to make his magnetic observa>> tions in the observatory. When the thermometer stood at forty-nine degrees below zero, and even at sixty-four degrees below zero, he still effected his as- treuomical investi^tions and calculations. On the 2l8t of January the first traces of the ro- tfirnins light biecame visible. Its approach was in- Mii in some uprtions of their bodies ; and two of ^em nl>tiini||^y okd in consequence of their expoMnre. On the 27th of April, the time iiaTing«rrived to oOn* thiod his researches both after Sir Jolm Franklin and in Arotic.dis^venr, i>r. Kane determined to resnmtt his Oxjpedition^. He reeoWed now to follow the iee^ be^ to the Greiat Olaeier of Hnmboldt, and thence to strMch alonff the face of the glacier, toward the west of north, and make an attempt to cross the ice to the Ainerican side of the channel. The object of this bold venture was to attain the ntmost limit of the shore of Greenland ; to measure (^e waste which ex- tended between it and the unknown west ; and thus to tertel, if possible, some of the mysteries which surrounded the North Pole. The Journey was imme- diatolv commenced. Afiker many adventures and sufferinffs which we will not describe, the Great Gla- cier of Humboldt was relKshed. A more magniilceBt object than this does not exist on the globe. It pre<^ sents a shining wall of ice 800 feet in height, wii* ittg orer the m>zen sea below, and extends nnb ie l B a n for sixty iniles; It is the great crystal bHd|» which has for ages connected togetJier the two eontments of Americti and Greenland, and it extrude ftom the sea towurd the interior, through vaist and unknown regions. ^^ Dr. Kane now deterniitied to organke m 4miM# party, in order to ascertain whether a ektm^otaliy > form of outlet eodsted to this nortiMmf Sfrtwniwiiy'li^ the coast of Greenland. He was convinced or tha •1 m-:-- ■i PKOGipM 0» ABCIIO imaOY^Y, existence of Buch a channel from the piovemenU of the ioe-bergt; from the physical dmraeier of the ti4es ; as well as.from certain and uniform, analogies of jphjsieal geo^aphy. On th^ 8a of Jane one of the parties of explora- tion wt out from the brig, l!liey had a large sledpe thirteen feet long* They aimed directljr for the gia- cier;barrier ,on the Greenland side. Their orders were tp iUteinpt to scale the ice and examine the Interior of ||^ great mer-de-glacet On the 27th (ff June one of the parties, directed by McGarry and Bonsall, returned to the brig. Several of them had become nearly blind. Alter twelve days' travel they had reached the Great Glacier. Thoy found the depot of provisions, which had been deposited the previous season, destroyed by the bears. These brutes had broken open the tin cases in which the pemmican )^ been deposited. An al- cohol cask strongly bound in iron was dashed into fragments ; and a tin liquor can was mashed and twisted into a ball This party of explorers had found it impossible to scale the Great 6lacier, and returned to the brig withoi^^ having efEect^^ f^JJ^, sttltfr of importance. ,, «: « , ,* The other party, which had been placed under the fuidance of Hr. Morton, lef^ the vessel on the 4th of une. On the 15th they reached the fpoj) of the Gr^t Glacier. They steered northward, keeping parallel with the Racier, and from five to seven miles distant froiA it. The thickness of the ice over which they journeyed was found to be seven feet five incnes> They traveled frequently with the snow up tQ their kinees. When they had reached Peabody Bay they encountered the bergs, whose surface was fresh and glassy. Some of these were rectangular in shape $nd some were square ; and their length va- riadfrom >a<|^iarterof ami^eto a mile. The task of- triifir^|{eiQver th^ese: berg^ was full of difiiculty and ■tilf'-ln iN%fi^t#>#s -*4' ' tm%t(v]i»^i^ .tf. |>]U XAmV IZPEDSTKnh iv^«rt 4M^ danger. At length they made their way thr^njglb, them to t^ smoc^er ice whieh lay beyood, f') On. the 19th of June, haying encatnped, Morton a»> cended a high bers, in order to examine t^eir fatnre roate i^4 BurTey the enrroonding desolation. From thia point he beheld an extensive plain whidLstretdied awaj[ toward the north, which proved to be the OvMifc' Glacier of Humboldt, as it appeared towaid the in^ terior) which also fronted o» the bay. from thia point the advance of the party was ^riloua. They, w^ere freqnei^tiy im^ested by wide and aeep fissures in. the ice. , This dimculty compelled them to turn to* ward the west. Soine of these chasms were four feet wide, and eontained water at the.bottom.^ From this, point they beheld the distant northern shore, termed the " West Land." Jts af^ftranee was mountainous and rolling. Its distance from thenl seemed to be about sixty miles. At length, by the 21st of June, the party reached a point opposite the termination of the Great Glacier. It appeared to be mixed with earth and rocks. Trav- ellug on, they reached at length the head of Kennedy chfumel, and saw beyond that the open water. Passing in their route a cape, they called itCape Andrew Jack- 8on< -Here they found good smooth ice; for during the.last few days they had passed over rotten iee, whi^h not unlreqnenuy threatened to break beneath thenk Having entered iJie curve of a bay, tl^y . named it after Bobert Morris, the peat financier of ^ the revolution. On the smooth ice in this vicinity tho ■- party advanced at the rato of six miles per hour. Kennedy Channel here grew narrower, but after*' ward it widened again. Brok^st ice in large masses was floating in it; but there were passages fifteen i miles in width, which remained perfectly clear. Sixi miles inward from the channel, mountains rose to the'i view. On the 22d of June they encamped^after hav» ing traveled forty-eight miles in a direct Une* l^ey were BliU npoatioe shores of the ohanneL Ihey could ^ ■^ J f 1 iMit FBOGl mp AadnetJUiDowBT. pia|iil;f vee tile opposite ihor^, whidi apjpeiured pre- cipitous. And rormouiited with snjga^oaf fi&ftped nmiBtaiiiii AttMa pinrtof their journey they eu- oDnntcEred a FoIat bear, with ber CQb. A desperate ^ht einsued, in whienite efforts made by the poor brute to protect bet helpless off- spviiM. Both were edain^ A shallow bay coTered with lee was then crossed. They passed several isl- aads which^l^ in the ehannel, which they named sdisr Bir John Frank^n and Captain Orozier. The d^s which here constituted the shore of the chan- i^ Nwere very high, towering at least two thou^ sand feet aboTe its siurfade. The paliy attempted to* asoeiid these cliffs; but found it impossible to mount nu»e than a few hundred feet. On the highest point which they attained, a walking pole was fastened, with the Grinnell flag of the Anied its sterface. Hehetrd the dashing of unfn^en .7:^08. KJlMb's £XFBDrri01f. ^"^ wftTM, and beheld a rolling snrf like that of mbi% g«niftl climes, mshing and dashingagainst the r6cks Xn the shore. This was certainly a mysterions ^ nomenon. Here was a flnid sea, in the midst of whole continents of ice, and that sea seemed to wash the Pole itself. The eye of the explorer snrveyed at least forty miles of nninterrnpted water in a northern direction. The point thus reached in this exploring expedition, was about five hundred miles distant from the Pole; Had the party been able to convey thither a boat, they might have embarked upon the brisht and placid waters of that lonely ocean. But having been able to make this journey only with the sledso, forther explorations were of course impossible, "flio most remarkable development connected with these discoveries was, that the temperature was here found to be much more moderate than |t was further south. Marine birds sailed through tfi^eavens. Bippling waves followed each other on the surface of the deep. A few stunted flowers grew over the barren and rocky shore. The inference which may be drawn from these and other facts is, that this op6n sea, termed the Polar Basin, stretches to the Pole itself, or at least continues a great distance until its course is interrupted by other projections of the terra firma. These are mysterious inquiries, still the great deeid- erata of Arctic travel ; which will remain unanswered, until some more successful explorer, gifted with greater physical endurance, if any such can be, and furnished with ampler and more abundant facilities than any of his predecessors, shall persist in defiance of every impediment in advancing, until he boldly plants his toot npon tlie very spot now termed the' North Pole. The several parties which had been sent forth by! Dr. Kane, to explore the regions just described, ha^«. ing returned, the season of Arctic travel had nearly tenninated, and the members of the expedition were ' ^boBt to relapse intM^ isinter (]parters, with tbeiir tumsl '-i J AAA FBOOMM er AAOTIO IHaOOVSBT. cUckneiB, moBotofBy^ And gloom. Bat befbre rMig» ing iJiemselves cintirelj to thit unwekome Seclusion, Br. Sane resolved to make an effort toreaeh Beechev Idand. At this point, already so frequently r^nrre^ to in the preceding pages^ Sir Edward Belcher^s squadron was then supposed to be stationed; and from tiliem the Ameriean explorers isnght obtain both provisions and information. Aooordingly^ Dr. Sjme manned hia boat, called the *' Forlorn Hope," which was twenty-three feet long, and six feet and a half beam. The necessary amount of proviuons were g laced on board, and the bold venture was undertaken, ometimes the boat was navigated through the un- frozen channels of water, which interveuMl between the floes of ice ; at. others she was placed on a largft sledge called the " Faith," and thus transported over tbd Irozen wastes. « \ This partv approaiHid Littleton Island, which had been visitea by Captain Ingleiield. They here ob- tained a vast quantity of eider ducks. They then pasded Flagstaff Point and Oombermere Oape. Then came Oape Isabella and Oape Frederick VU. On the 23d of July they reached Hakluyt Island; andr thence they steered for Oary Islands. But on the Slat of July, when they had reached a point but ten' miles distant from Cape Parry, their further progress was absolutely stopped. A solid mass of ice lay be- fore them on the sea, extending as far as the eye could reach. This barrier was composed of the vast seas of ice which had drifted through Jones' Sound on the west, and those of Murchison's on the east. The: adventnrers were now compelled to retrace their way. About the 1st of August they regained the brig, without having met with any accident, but jdso without having succeeded in attaiainff the object of their excursion. They found the "Advance^' juttas^ tightly wedged into the ice as it had been during the ' SreiC^Ung eleven months, with no hope of gettiug fir |elfiaae|d. Two important questionaBow demand r .^i MMB^B KZJPHHTWV^ ed; iktit «tteiiti(m. Tho first was, how they were to paea this, their second winter in the Aretic regions; and how they were to make their escape in the ensik' insspring. . ^ l^nateyer might be the issue of the fntnre, Dr. Kanw determined to leave a memorial at the spot which ]v% then eecnpied, to prove to his snec^sors tiie-faot that he and his expedition had been there. ' He paint- ed the words '^ Advance) A. B. 1853-54," npon the broad fiice of a rock, which rested on a high diff look- ing out upon the frozen waste; . ^CTear this qpot a hole was drilled into the rock, and a paper containing a history of the expedition and its present condition, was placed in glass, and sealed into the cavity with melted lead. Close at hand were buried the corpses of the two members x>f the expedition who had al- ready ended their toils and sufiBerings. The prospect of a second winter amid the eternal snows And ice of the Polar Cirele, was not inviting to the adventurers. A portion of them felt convinced of the practicability ot an immediate escape to the< south. X)n the 24th of August Dr. Elane summoned all hands together, and clearly stated to them the as- . peets of the case. He advised that all should remain by the brig till the next spring; although he declared that' those who wished to return could make Hie at* tempt. Eight men concluded to remain; and nine of them resolved that, rather thai^ endure the miseries oi;V« second winter near theP(de, they would run the risks of an instant attempt to escape. This resolution they made immediate preparations to execute. A fall share of the remaining provisions was measured oat to them. They were assured of a welcome re- ception if they chose to return; and they started forth on August 28th from the brig.. One of this party returned to the vessel in a few days ; the rest- wandered for many monthS) and endured mueh misery ' and exposure, betbre they rejoined their wiser com radet in the brig. \J 9% FR061 UP Aweno DueovsBr. Dr. Kane and the eight men who remained i^th him, immediately began to prepare for the honors oft the ensnin^ winten They garnered a large amount of moss with which thoy lined and padded the qiiar> ter^iecki This expedient rendered their cabin imper- ious to the changes and the extreme seyerity of tiie atmosphere. They stripped off the oater-decnc plank- ins of the brig^ for the pnrpose of fire-wood. The chief necessity of the explorers was fresh meat, to gaard them against the sonrYy. To obtain this food, treqaent excursions were made for the purpose of cap- turing^ seals. On one of these occasions Dr. Ksaae narrowly escaped a watery grave. He was at tweWe miles' distance from the brig, with a single attendant. The ice broke beneath their sledge, and they were precipitated into the water. After great exertions and amid extreme danger, they succc^ed in regaixi- ing ice sufficiently eis^^g to bear their weight. They lost their sledse, tent, kayack, guns, and snow-shoes.-^ At length, by the 2l8t of October, the rays of the sun had ceased -to reach them ; and darkness — ^the cold and dieerless darkness of an Arctic night settled down upon them. They were compelled td confine themselves to the precincts of their gloomy cabin, and waste awayas best they could, the slow hours of their long winter. Their only light was an occa^r sionai aurora, whose pale, brieht arch of brilliant hues seemed to be resting on the aistant Pole. The ther- mometer now ranged 34° below zero. Thus, in this strange monotony of routine and incident, November and jJecember wore away ; except that during the latter month, a portion of the party who had deserted the britf on tiie 28th of August previous, returned to their M quarters. They had suffered much; and had left the remainder of their party two hundred miles distant in the midst of great destitution. The thermometer was then fifty degrees below zero. When Christmas eame it was celebrated for the second time by this gatfftnt crew of heroes, amid the Arctic soli t itt. KAmf s mLPKomm: *^ m. tades, with tnch means as ihey could eommand-^ whidi indeed wore few ; and thus ended with theiti the year 1854. The three most dangerons and dreary months of the year — January, February, and March — ^were now before them. Dnrinff these months it was exceeding ly difficult for the adVenturefb to procure fk'esh meat, wliich was their only preyentive and core of senryy. With this disease eyory member of the party became at last infected; some so seriously that tneir liyes were in danger. Thus the dreary drama of their Arc- tic exile dragged on. They waited patiently for the time to arriye when they could commence the neces- sary preparations tor the journey of thirteen himdred mites which they would umlertake in the spMns. The yessel: would eyidently remain so firmly fixed m an ocean of ice, that its remoyal would be utterly im- possible. Their return must be efiSscted with the com- bined use of sledges imd boats. Y^ before commenc- ing a final retreat, D^ Kane resolyed to attempt once more a northern excursion, hopiug that it might xp- suit in some useful discovery connected with the ob- ject of the expedition. - The region which was yet to be explored was the farther shores beyond Kennedy Gliaanel. The aid of the dogs was indispensable to the accomplishment of this task; and there were but four left out of the sixty-two, which composed their stock when they left Newfoundland. An arrangement was howeyer made with Kalutunah, one of the wandering Esquimaux -whom they knew, for the use of his dogs and three sledges. Thus reen^ced, Dr. Kane, accompanied by seyeral experienced Esquimaux trayelers, commenced his journey. In two hours'they reached a lofty berg fifteen miles north of the brig. Tho ylew of the chan- nel pre8ente4 from the summit of this berg was not very favorable. The outside channel seemed filled with squeezed ice; and on the frozen plain beyond, thebergs appeared 'o be mndi distortecL PBOQMM «P ASCnO Bffi00rKBT. i*tf' N«¥ertbeleM» Dr. %iiAB remAwtd to mal^ethe Ten- tore. They quioklj passed fifteen milee farther; when the party halted to feed and rest. The journey WM then resumed. But «nfortnn«(ely the traces of * Pokr bear soon attracted the attention of the Esqni- manX) and the temptatioa was too strong for famished men to resist. A chase ensued. The animal was Quickly brought to bay, attacked, and dispatohod. !hen ensued another gorge^and after the gorge there necessarily came a,3 interval of repose and sleep. A sleep of four hours' duration ensued upon the open snow ; after which the party arose and resumed their journey. Dr. E^ne desired to ste^ directly to the northward ; but his associates declared that to cross so high up as they then were, was impossible. The fate of Baker and Schubert in the preceding year, who attempted this feat, recurred to their recollob- tion, and convinced them that the attempt would be then extremely I||^dous. Again was the leader of the expedition fate^ to experience a disappointment, and to return to the brig without having accomplished tibe purpose for which he set forth. But before he did 80, he embraced the opportunity which was with- in his reach, once more to examine the Great Hum- boldt Glacier, one of the most remarkable monuments in nature. The whole horizon before him was bound- ed by long lines of ice-berffs^ They undulated about the horizon, but as they aeseended to the sea, they resembled an uneven plain with an inclination of about nine degrees, still diminishing as they ap- proached the foreground. Vast crevasses appeared in the distance like mere wrinkles. Hies^ grew Utrger as they approached the sea, where they expanded in- to gigantic stairways. The appearance of this Great Humboldt Glacier resembles in some respects the frozen tuasses of the Alps; and reminded the bold adventurer of tnany scenes whiol^ he had witnessed in the moimtains of Norway and Switzerland. The average height of ti DR. KAins's BXPEDinoar. 4M tUm great glacier along the watei^s edge wm about tbree hundred feet ; and this height was presented by an uniform perspective of sixty miles in length; thus exhibiting one of the most sublime and imposing iq^taoles which thojnind can conceive. The config- urations of. its surface and form clearly indieate that its inequalities follow those of the rocky soil on which it rests. Having made various observations upon the phenomena connected with this glacier, Dr. Kane re- sumed his return toward the brie. The company traveled over the frozen surface oi the ice to the south of Peabody Bay. The first spot at which they landed was called Cape James Kent It was a rutfged and lofty headland ; and it presented in the mstance a strip^;e spectacle of a ruae sur&ce, covered with mil- lions of tons of rubbish, rocks of every imaginable shape, and slates of immense size and of infinite va- riety of forms. On the south-eastern comer of Mar- i^U Bay the party found a group of Esquimaux re- mains, consisting of a few deserted huts and graves. They were the rude and melancholy relics of a race oi lonely wanderers who had passed away. These remains were surrounded by the bones of the seal and the walrus, and the dissevered vertebrss of a whale. Therv .rere indications that the spot had long been deserted ; and yet no changes had been effected by the sikent lapse of time in those frozen and primeval solitudes, in the appearance and position of these aiini»le monuments. Ijiis journey was enHvened by several interestin|g bear hunts ; and a few details respecting'this Arctic entertainment may here not be inappropriate. The dogs with which these hunts are carried (m, are very carefully trained to play their part. This part is not to attack l^e bear, but to hinder and im- pede his fiight. While one of these dogs occupies his attention in front, another salutes his hind» legs with vigorous bites. This keeps the animal oscilA* ting betweeA several distinct parties (^ foes ; and while llH PBOOBMS or ABOTIO DUOOTEBT. h« it bfttdiiig with one and tho other, the hunters eome up. In the first instance, as soon a» the hear sees the approach of the dogs and men, he rises on his hannehes, carefully inspects his foes for a mo- ment, and then takes to his heels. As the hnnter ap- proaches him, if he is riding on his sledge he loosens the traces of his two foremost doffs, which releases them from their harden, and enables them to attack the bear. Soon after, the rest of the dogs are libera* ted in the same way. When there are two hunters, bruin is soon and easily dispatched. They surround him, and while one of them pretends to stab him with a spdar on tiie right side, and thus engages the bear in his defense in that direction, the death wound is i^eted on the left by tlie same weapon. K there be but one hunter, the task is neither so easpr nor so safe. The hunter grasps his lance firmly in his handk, and proTokes the bear to pursue him byruntting across his path, and then pretendins to flee. When Ihe bear has begun the chase, the hunter suddenly doubles on his track b^ a dexterous leap ; and while the bear is in the act of turning around, Ae is stabbed with ^e spear in his left side below the shoulder. If this stab be skillfully executed, the bear is at once disabled and soon expires. If it is not, the hunter has then to run for his life, aflber leaving 'his spear sticking in the side of his victim. If the bear gets the hunter in his grasp, he salutes him with divers hugs and squeezes, which are much more vigorous and affectionate than agreeable. He sometimes also uses his teeth. Dr. Kane saw some Esquimaux hun- ters who had been bitten behind in the calves of the legs; and .another who had received a similar salute scnnewhat higher up. Having returned to the brig, Dr. Eane resumed his preparations tor final departure. Frozen fast as she was in the ice, there was no possibility of remov- ing her. The only possible means of escape was by 4he combined use of boats and sledges. The part^ 1 1 DB. xAif k'i BZPEUmaV. 4m w%vX to work induitriouslj is the nMinufiMtim of olothing snitable to the journej. Oabvas moecMini were made for each of the party, aiid aaurplnt sup- ply of three dozen was added to the stocK. Thcar Doots were made of carpeting, with soles of walris "or seal hide, and some had b^n fabricated from the chafing gear of the brig. Other portions of their clothing were made oat of blankets. Ererj one aot~ ^ as his own tailor. Their bedding was made oat of the woolen curtains with which their berths in the brig had been adorned. These were aoilted wi^ eider down, and bu^o robes were added to increase their warmth. Their provision bags consisted of sail-doth, made water-tight by the application of tar and pitch. They were of various sises, so as to be more conveniently stowed away in the boats. The ship-bread was pow- dered by being beaten with a c^stan-bar, and then pressed down into the bags. Pork-fat and tallow Doing, melted down, were poured into other bags as iiito moulds, and thou left to freeze. Concentrated bean-soup was cooked up and prepared in the same way. llie flour and meat-biscuit were protected from moisture in double bags. Dr. Kane's plan was to subsist liis party for some time after they left the brig, bv new supplies of provisions which he could bring from the vessel by trips with his dog-team. The means of conveyance which were to carry the company on this long and weary journey, and which were to be carried by them in a great measure, con- sisted of three boats. These had all suffered very materially from exposure to the ice and the Arctic storms ; and were scarcelv sea-worthy. They were strengthened and tinkered in every possible way by oak bottom-pieces, and by wash-boards which protect- ed the gunwales and gave them greater depth. A housing of canvas was stretched upon a ridge line, which was suspended by stanchions, and which were |listi»qie(i over the aides of the boats to jaek-stayA. Mi PBoo; Of ABono vuoonrEar, 'Eaeh bott had a lingle mast, and it was to arranj^ 4hat it oould be easily nnshipped, and carrfdd along- side the boat. The boats were mounted on sledges. The provisions were stored oarefhllj under the thwurti. The Doats were to be drawn bj the men with riie-rad- dies, or straps, which passed over tlie shonlder aiul were attached by a long trace to the sledge. The philosophical instmments were carefully boxed and padded, and placed in the stem-sheets of one of the Doats. Bpy-glasses and small instmments the trav- elers earned on their persons. The powder and shot, which now became of infinite valae to them, wore dis- tributed in bags and tin canisters. The percussion caps, the most valuable of all, Dr. Kane himself took charge of and reserved. Havinff made all the preparations which werepos- sible under the circumstances of the case. Dr. Kari^ announced to his crew that ho appointed the 17th of Hay as the day of their final departure A*om the brig. Each man was allowed to select and retain eight pounds of personal effects. The announcement of their final departure toward the south was not received by the members of the expedition with the enthusiasm which Dr. Kane had expected. Some doubted the reality of the journey home ; and suspected that it was merely a maneuver to remove the sick to the hunting grounds. Others thought that the real pur- pose was only to' journey further south, whilst the bri^ was retained as a refu^ for them to retreat to ; while others suspected that their leader merely wished to reach some point on the coast where he could obtain a rescue from passing whalers, or IVom some of the English Arctic expeditions which were still supposed to be lingering in those remote regions. The sicK among the crew, who had long been accus- tomed to inaction and indalgence, declared themselves unfit to be removed, and unable to travel a milei But in ^ite of all these obstacles, the resolution of the commaiider of the f xpedition was uni^nible. "it/ OB. xavb'b mmDmoth- ^^ Wl He WM determined to oommenoe this MemorAbU iourney on the day appointed, at all hazaidt. At length the day preceding that of departare arrived. The boats were removed from the brig aad placed upon the ice. This process seemed to revive to some decree the desponding spirits of the men. The pro- visions w«re then conveyed into them ; and other necessary transfers were made. After some hours of active operations, the whole of their task was com- pleted ; and the men returned on board the bri^, in order to spend their last ni|^ht in that familiair shelter* Atler supper they retired to rest, in order to recruit their energies for the toils which were to com- mence on the ensuing day, upon the final snooess of which their future eiustonce depended. At length the wished-for moment arrived when the weary adventurers were to take their last farewell of the vessel which had been associated with them in so many vicissitudes and dangers. All hands were assembled together in silence in the winter chamber. • The day was Sunday, and the exercises began by the reading of a chapter of the scriptures. Dr. Kane then took Sir John Franklin's portrait from its frame, and enclosed it in an ludia-rubber scroll. The sev- eral reports of inspection and survey were then read, which set forth what results had already been attained, and contained the reasons which induced the com- mander of the expedition to take the steps which were to ensue. He then addressed his men in refer- ence to Uie journey on which they were about to en- ter, explaining its necessity, the method according to which It was to be conducted, and the certainty of final relief and escape which it would bring them, if they reaolutely persisted in carrying it out. Thirteen hundred miles of ice and water lav between their present positi(;^ and the shored of JNorth Greenland* He closed by directing their hope» of safety, not ua^ fitly, to that great Unseen Power who had already rescued themtrom a thousand deaths, and who would iae PBOGBIBB OF ▲BOTIC^ DISOOTEBT. continue to be their verj present help in every time of need. The men responded to the sentiments and purposes expressed by Dr. Kane with more enthusiasm than he seems to' have anticipated. They drew up a state- ment in which they expressed their conviction of the necessity which existea of abandoning the brig; the impossibility of remaining a third winter in the ice \ the obligation which rested on them to convey the sick carefully along with them ; and their determina- tion to cooperate with their leader in his proposed measures of escape. This statement was handed to Dr. Kane. He also had prepared a narrative of the considerations which induced him to abandon the ves- sel. This he posted to a stanchion near the gangway, BO that it mi^ht attract the attention of any one who approached the vessel. The party then went on deck ;^ the flags were hoisted to the mast-head, and lowered again; the men paraded twice around the brig, care- fully scrutinizing her timbers, associated in their minds with so many pleasing and painful recollec- tions ; and having thus saluted the vessel for the last time, they rushed away on or the ice toward the boats, which had already been removed, filled with their cargo, and made ready to commence their homeward journey. The whole return party consisted of seventeen per- sons, including Dr. Kane. Four of tnese were sick, and unable to move. The rest were divided into two companies, and appropriated to the several boats; Dr. Kane took charge of the dog-team, which was to be used for the purpose of conveving provisions from the vessel to the crew, during the first few days of their journey. To the boat called " Faith,'' McGary, Ohlsen, Bonsall, Petersen, and Hickey were assigned. To the " Hope," Mortbn, Sontag, Kiley, IBlake, and Godfrey were detailed. "- The first stage of the journey was to a spot called Auoatok« which had been a halting place iH their win- . f « Nt. JKAME 8 SXPEDinOV. > "t 409 ter journeys. It was a einglo hnt, composed of mde and heavy stones, and resembled a cave more than it did a house. Strange to say, this bleak and for- lorn corner of that frozen hemisphere, the gloomiest and most detestable on the whole face of tne globe, bore a name which was imposed by the least poeti- cal of human beings, the Esquimaux, which was not devoid of beauty ; for Anoatok in the jargon of the shivering natives means " the wind-loved spot." It was perched on the extreme point oi a rocky promon- tory, and commanded a wide view of the icy straits, both toward the north and south. Dr. Kane had exerted himself to repair the hut, and make it fit to shelter the sick. He had added a door to its broken outlet, and had introduced a stove and stove-pipe. Other improvements had been made. A solitary pane of glass, which once had faced a daguerreotype, was inserted in the door, to give a scanty light. The provisions which had been re- moved to this place were eight hundred pounds in weight. Seven hundred pounds still remained in the brig, to be removed by successive journeys of the dog-team. The services of these six do^s were in- deed invaluable. In addition to all their previous journeys, they carried Dr. Kane to and fro, with a well-burdened sledge, nearly eight hundred miles du- ring the first two weeks after they left the brig, be- ing an average of fifty-seven miles per day. So feeble and reduced were the parties who drag- ged the two boats, that they advanced but a mile a day, and on the ^4th had only made seven miles. The halts were regulated entirely by the condition of the men who required longer rest at some periods than at others. The thermometer ranged below zero, and the men slept at night in the boats, protected by their canvas coverings. Had it not been for the shelter which the hut at Anoatok afibrded, the four sick men — GoodfellowJ Wilson, Whipple, and Ste- phenson — they must have perished. At the time of ripM m»o PBOGRBSB OF ABCnO DI800YESY. their remoyal into it, tbej were so drawn up ^ith tfie ■curvy that they were wholly unable totnove. Yet their delay in this hut was extremely gloomy ; for it lasted from the time that thejr were removed from the brig, until they were carried forward by the sledge to the boats which had been drag^d by their respective crews in advance of them. l)uring this interval they were carefully fed and attended by Dr. j^^ne. Dr. Elane's visits to the brig from time to titne, in order to obtain supplies of provisions, were full of in- terest to him. On the first of these he found the ves- sel already inhabited by an old raven, which had often been seen hovering around, and whom they had called Magog. The fire was lighted in the galley, the pork was melted, large batches of bread were baked, dried apples were stewed, and then the sledge was mailo ready to return with the load. Such was usually the routine of Dr. Kane's lonely visits to the brig. Af- ter the first of these visits, when he returned to the " wind-loved spot," Anoatok, with his sledge, he found that the sick who still remained there had exhausted their provisions ; that their single lamp had gone out ; that the snow drifts had forced their way in at the door, so that it could not be shut ; that the wind was blowing furiously through the open tenement ; and that the thermometer ranged only thirteen degrees above zero. The invalids were disheartened and hun- gry. A fire was built with tarred rope ; a porridge was prepared for them out ef meat biscuit and pea soup ; the door was fastened up ; a dripping slab of fat pork was suspended over their lamp wick ; and then all turned into their sleeping bags, afteu a hearty though not very savory meal. So overcome were they all with exposure and weakness, that they slept I until after all their watches had run down. '^: Dr, Kane then hurried forward to the sledge party, who had by that time reached Ten Mile Kavine. They were struggling with the deep snows, were ovei" tr ^DB. SANie't XZPXDlTIOlf. fiOl whelmed with fatiene, and were somewhat disheart- ened. Although their feet were much swollen, they had toiled that day for fourteen hours. Some were suffering fi plan proposed over- ruled their wishes, and the inland route, though longer, was selected. The wished-for water which greeted the eyes of the weary travelers, ^vas Hartstein Bay; and they welcomed it with emotions of rapture re- sembling those which, as Xenophon records, filled the minds and excited tlie enthusiasm of the ten thousand Greeks when, after their long and perilous march through Asia Minor, and their escape from the myr- iads of Artaxerxes, they first beheld the distant waves of the sea whose billows laved the shores of their beloved Greece. On the 16th of Juno the party reac||ed the water. It was at the northern curve of the North Baffin Bay. The surf roared sublimely in their ears, and sounded like sweet music after their long and cheerless absence from its bosom. The next thing to be done was to prepare the boats for the difficult navigation which was to ensue. Tiiey were not sea-worthy. They had been split with frost, warped by the sunshine, and were open at the seams. They were to be calked, swelled, launched, and stowed. On the 18th the travelers were surrounded by all the Esquimaux who (M)4 PBOGBSM OVABOnO DISGOVEBT. bad been assembled at Etah. They had come to bid the Btrangen farewell, whom they had served to the best of their ability at lin earlier stage of their jour hey. They were indeed a miserable and forlorn race, though kindly and confiding in their dispositions. They received various presents and keepsakes from the travelers — such as knives, files, saws, and lumps of soap. They had been ^f great service in lending hand-sledges and dogs ; in helping to carry baggage and the sick from one station to another, along tneir weary route; and they parted from the strangers— probably tiie last they were destined ever to behold m that repulsive clime — with feelings of regret which they did not conceal. Dr. Kane urged them to emigrate furthw south ; for there they could ob- tain more abundant food, and escape the perils of starvation which constantly surrounded them. ^ ' On the evening of Sunday, June 17th, the party hauled their boats through the hummocks, reached the open sea, and launched their frail craft upon its waters. But Eolus seemed determined not to per- mit them yet to embark ; for he let loose his fiercest winds, which began to dash a heavy wind-Ujpper against the ice-floe, and obliged the party to re- move their boats back with each new breakage of the ice. The goods which had been stacked upon the ice were conveyed further inward to the distance of sev- eral hundred yards. The storm continued to rage, and to forbid^ them to venture on the treacherous ele- ment. At last Dr. Kane saw the necessity of per- mitting the worn-out men to repose, and in oraer to do so securely, the boats were removed a mile from the water's edge. The sea tore up the ice to the very base of the berg to which they had fled for refuge, and the angry deep seemed like a vast cauldron, boil- ing with intense fury, while the immense fragments of ice crashed and rolled together with a sound re* sembling thunder. At length the storm subsided, and the troubled sea .¥« DB. KASB*t SXVBDItfnr. ^ ^6 beeftme tranquil. The boats were asain prtoared for embarkation. On Tnesday, the l&th, Dr. Kane anc* ceeded in getting the Faith afloat, and he was soon followed by the two other boats. Soon the wind freshened, and the mariners began their welcome progress homeward ; bnt they had a long and perilous voyage before them of many hundred miles. At length they doubled Capo Alexander. They desired first to halt at Sutherland Island ; but the ice-belt which hugged its shores was too steep to permit them to land. They then steered for Hakluyt Island, bnt had not proceeded far before the red boat swamped. The crew were compelled to swim to the other boats; and the former was with difficulty kept afloat, and dragged in tow by her comrades. Dr. Kane then fastened his boats to an old floe; and thus sheltered, the men obtained their second halt and rest. When they had become somewhat refreshed, they rowed for Hakluyt Island, at a point less repulsive and imprac- ticable than the one attempted the day before. A spit to the southward gave them an 6pportunity to haul up the boats on the land-ice, as the tide rose. From this the men dragged the boats to the rocks above and inland ; and were thus secure. It snowed heavily during the ensuing night. A tent was pre- pared for the sick; and a few birds were luckilv ob- tained to vary their stale diet of bread-dust and tallow. On the next morning, the 22d, the snow storm still continued to pelt them; but they pressed on- ward toward Northumberland Island, and reached it. They rowed their boats mto a small inlet of open water, which conducted them to the beach directly beneath a hanging glacier which towered sublimely into the heavens to the immense height of eleven hundred feet, ' The next day they crossed Murchison Channel, and at night encamped at the base of Gape Parry. The day had been laboriously spent in tracking over the ice, and in sailing through tortuous leads. The day 33 fMlHMMMM 506 PB06BIM or iBono xxsoorsBT. following they reached Fit2 Olarence Book; one of the most Bingnlar forms to be seen in that strange clime. It rises to an immense height from a vast field of ice, having the shape of an Egyptian pyra- mid surmounted by an obelisic. In more frequented waters it would be a valued landmark to the navigator. Stul they continued to toil onward from day to dity. Their progress was satisfactory, though their labor was exhausting. Dr. Kane sometimes continued six- teen hours in succession at the helm. But now their allowance of food began to grow scanty. It was . reduced to six ounces of bread-dust per day, and a lump of tallow about the size of a walnut. An occa- sional cup of tea was their only consolation. From this stage in their journey Dalrymple Eock became perceptible in the distance. But the physical strength of the men began to give way beneath their labors and their insufficient diet. At this crisis a gale struck them from the north-T.est, and a floe, one end of which having grounded on a tongue of ice about a mile to the northward of them, began to swing round to- ward the boats, and threaten to enclose and crush them. Soon the destruction of the surrounding ice threatened their own. For hundreds of yards on every sidfe around them the ice was crumbled, crushed, and piled in irreg- ular and fragmentary masses. The thunder of the con- fused ocean of frozen wrecks was oTerpowering. Sud- denly the ice seemed to separate and form a channel; and in that channel, so unexpectedly opened before them, the men rowed th'e boats with the aid of their boat hooks, and escaped a danger which a moment before seemed inevitable and ruinous. Soon they found themselves in a lead of land- water, wide enough to give them rowing room, and they hastened on to the land, which loomed ahead. Beaching it, they eagerly sought a shelter. The Hope here stove her bottom, and lost part of her weather-boarding. The water broke over them, for the storm still continued. - m w 1 xm. mjjsKB mxTKBrnom, «jrt 507 '• I At lenzth tho tide rose high enonffh at three o'clock to enable them to scale the ice-cli£ They succeeded^ lU ^^ulling the boats into a doe^ and narrow gorse, wL. . h opened between the towerine cliffs, llie rookji seemed almost to closo above their heads. An ab- rupt tjurve in the windings of this gorge placed a pro- tecting rock behind them, which shielded them irom the violence of the winds and waves. They had reached a haven of refuse which was almost a cave ; where they found a flockot eider ducks on which they feasted ; and wliere for throe days they reposed from the dangers and labors of their voyage. This retreat they fitly called Weary Man's Rest. The tburth day of July having arrived, it was com- memorated by the adventurers by a few diluted and moderate potations, such as their nearly exhausted whisky flask permitted; and they then embarked and rowed industriously toward Wolstenholme Island. During some succeeding days, they continued slowly to progress toward the south, through the various ktnes of water which opened between tiie b^lt-ice and the floe. By this time, the constant collisions between the boats and the floating ice had rendered them quite unsea worthy. The ice Imd strained their bottom tim- bers, and constant baling was necessary. Their fresh meat had all been consumed, and the men were now reduced again to short rations of bread-dust. On the 11th of July they approached Cape Dudley I^igges ; but their progress was suddenly stopped by an immense tcngue of floe which extended out to sea for^ a prodigious distance. They forced their way into a lead of sludge, and attempted thus to advance. They found this to be impossible ; and were glad to make their escape from it. Df. Kane was at a loss how to proceed. He mounted an ice-berg to recon- noiter the surrounding prospect. It was gloomy and repulsive in the extreme. They were in advanca of the season ; and he discovered that in those waters toward Cape York, the j^oes had not yet broken np^» s^ tEOQl Q9 AMOnO DIMOVMT. e Thej Memed to be sarronnded in a otd-de-^aej with exhausted strength and food, and no possibility of es- caping nntil the summer had broken open for them a pathway of escape through the water. Dr. Aane resolred to steer for the rocky' shore. Above a narrow ledge of lofty cliffs mounted one over the o^er to the prodigious height of eleven hun- dred feet. Hie waves dashed violently against that ledge; but still it afforded a shelter to the boats. Here they were for the present again deposited ; and fortunately a quantity of siills were found in the crevi- ces of the rocks, which afforded the famished wander- ers nutricious food. The glacier which stretched away in front of them was about seven miles across. On ascending the heights above him, Dr. Kane en- joyed a magnificent prospect of the frozen ocean, the mr-de^lace, whose glittering surface spread out b^- fon^ and around him. A vast undulating plain of purple-colored ice appeared, extending to the limits of the horizon, resplendent with th^ varied hues of sun-tipped crystaL This spot, where the wanderers enjoyea so welcome a repose, such nutricious food, and such sublime perspective, they named Providence Halt. Here they remained till the 18th of July. In resuming their voyage from this point, they en- countered, an accident which misht have proved very serious. When they launched the Hope, she was pre- cipitated into the sludge in such a manner as to carry away her rail and bulwark. They lost overboard their best shot-gun, and an equally indispensable utensil, their kettle which had, served them in every possible capacity of kettle — such as soup-kettle, paste-kettle, tea-kottle, and water-kettle. Sailing along they passed the Crimson Cliffs, so'named by Sir John Ross. They continued thence to hug the shore. The weather now moderated ; and their voyage assumed more agreeable and genial features. The men freqitontly landed, climbed up the steep cliffs and obtained ab^dant quantities of auks. Fir«s were kindled i|ML Kjanf§ Bxpf^i 509 tb« t f, Ant ished with Dion also the more tru that their good f ki fear 9 whicK entaed w^re rel- n an ^ nUnar} appetite ; and that , becai ^ the travelers well knew ane, ^ i their propitious seas and weather, would not u)n{., eontinue. They were now in 78° 20' north latitude. On the 2lBt of June they reached Cape York. Their provisions had now diminished to six hundred and forty pounds, or about thirtynBix pounds to each man. .The question to be determined was, whether they should delay where they then were for some days until the shore-ice opened ; or whether they should desert the coast and venture boldly upon the open water to the west. Dr. Kane ascended th« rocks upon the shore, and bythe aid of his fflass care- fully scrutinized the ice. The latter could be seen immoveably fixed to the shore in nearly an unbroken sweep far beyond Bushnell Island. The outside floes were large ; and one large lead appeared to th§ view which seemed to follow me main noe until it was lost to seaward. Dr. Kane explained to his men the motives which induced him to adopt the course upon which he had determined. The boats were tlien hauled on shore, examined, and repaired. One of these, the Bed -Erie, was stripped of her cargo and prepared to bo broken up as soon as occasion should require^ A beacon was also erected on an eminence, which could be dis* corned both from the south and the west, surmounted by a red flannel shirt. Under the cairn was deposit- ed a short narrative of the condition and purposes of the^arty. They then resumed their voyage steering south by west through the ice-flelds. For a while they progressed safely enough. But soon the irregu- liarities of the surface, loaded as it was by hummocks - and even larger masses, made it difficult to discern^^ the state of the ice in the distance. At length they" lost their way ; the officer at the helm of the leading boat deceivfid by the irregular shape of a large ie»« 1^ # 010 PBOOl or AlCmO DBOQVi berg, had deserted the proper lead, and had tteored far out of the tme course. Dr. Kane at onoe ordered a halt, and ascending an ice-berg some three hnndved feet in height, he Bar< veyed the prospect. It was by no means enooura- ffing. They had advanced into the recesses of the bay, and were surrounded on all sides by immense ioe-bergs and floating ice. Bo dismal appeared their situation that one of the sturdiest members of the ex- pedition, who accompanied the commander in his sur- vey, burst into tears at the sadness of their situation. There was but one means of deliverance, and that it behooved them to adopt instantly. They must re- sume their sledses and retrace their way to the west- ward. One sledge had already been cutAip for fire- wood. The boat JRed Erie now shared the same fate ; nnd was laid upon the floor of the other boats. Thr^e days of hard dragging over the ice ensued ; at the end of which time they regained the ice-berg which had misled them iu Uie tirst instance, and had induced them to take a course which had nearly ended in their ruin. From this point made easier by experience, they steered in the right direction into a tree lead, ana were wafted onward by a friendly breeze from the north. Another trouble now assailed the travelers, not less important than the one they had just escaped. Their provisions had fearfully diminished, and yet they wore Qundreds of miles distant from the nearest Danish settlement of Greenland. Their strength diminislied in proportion with their food. The latter had become 60 much lessened, that five ounces of bread-dust^ four ounces of tallow, and throe of bird's meat, were all that could be thenceforward allowed each man per day. The commander now determined to try the more open sea, as their progress along the coast had been retarded by its sinuosities. During two days heavy fogs impeded their rapid advance. A south' westerly wind brought the outside pack upon them, DB. KANK 8 icxri!j)rnoN. 511 nnd cornpollod thorn to haul up on the drifting ice. By this moans thoy were drifted with it twenty miles away from their proper coarse. The labors and toils of the party were extreme and exhausting ; and yet thev manfully kept up their spirits. A strange phenomenon now showed itself among thorn; and one too of ominous import. Though worked excessively they yet felt no iiunger. They also seemed to loso their physical strength. The I' Faith " also very nearly escaped destruction, by be- ing left behind for a short time. The outside pressure had broken the iloe asunder, and tho Faith began to ilout away from them. Hoi* loss would have entailed tliat of a large portion of the scantv provisions which thev still possessed ; and would have inevitably sealed their ruin. By the utmost exertions of tho men, some of whom seemed nearly thrown into hys- terics by her threatened loss, she was again secured. The situation of tho voyagers continued to become more critical. They experienced a difficulty i n breath- iug, and an inability to sleep. Their line of travel lay through the open bay, in the midst of tho great ice-drift which hurried from the Arctic climes into the Atlantic ocean. Their boats were frail and shat- tered, and constantly made enough water to require their utmost exertions in bailing, in order to keep them afloat. Their fresh food had been exhausted for some days ; and they suffered from a low fever which prostrated them to the utmost. At this point of their progress they happily killed a seal which they discovered on a small patch of ice. The lirst sight of it created the utmost entliusiasm among the men. As tlie boats silently approached him and before they were within rifle shot, the seal raised his head, surveyed the strangers, and was pre- paring to dive into the water. .The best marksman of the company with their best rifle, had just drawn, sight upon the seal ; and the lives of the whole p^artyj may be said to have depended on the Buccess of thja^ 512 PBOOBESS OF ABOnO CIBCOTEBT. ■% shot. A moment of breathless anxiety etisued ; but the skill of Petersen prevailed. At the instant the crack of the rifle was heard the seal relaxed his long body, and his head fell flat on the ice upon its utmost verge. With a loud yell the famished men ur^ed forward the boat with their utmost strength. When they reached the ice thev rushed over it, laughing, crying, and brandishing their knives. The unhappy seal was cut into strips before he had fairly time to expire ; and was gorging the men with his raw re- mains. Kot a single ounce was lost ; the intestines even, were boiled in the soup-kettle ; and the carti- laginous flippers were distributed and chewed to pieces with the utmost relish. This opportune supply of fresh food saved the lives of the party. Their mental and physical health was restored. Several days afterward they killed another eealy and thus each one retained a mens eana in sano corpore. On the 1st of August they came within sight of the Devil's Thumb, and were no longer wanderers in unknown regions ; but were within the limits of the district frequented by the whalers. Soon they reached the Duck Islands. At length they passed Cape Shackleton, and then steered for the shore of Greenland. Their long voyage with its infinite anxieties and toils — their perilous adventures amid cheerless conti- nents of ice — their narrow escapes from the moun- tainous ice-bergs — ^their sufferings from cold, hunger, and disease — their apprehensions of an unknown grave in the solitudes of the Arctic realms— their doubts of a final happy escape from the innumerable perils, and of their welcome vision of their natiye land and the firesides of their former years — all these now terminated in eventual triumph and escape. They now shaped the course directly toward the shores of Greenland, which clearly loomed up in their distant horizon. Kext day they met the nrst inhabitant of thikt world from which they had been so long shut ij • *i 4 DB. KANE'S EXPEDITION. 513 out. It was a Greenlander who, in his small canoe or kayak, was seeking eider down among the islands which stud the coast. They hailed him. One of the men, Petersen, knew him. It was Paul Trocharias. " Don't you know me ? " enquired Petersen, as the boats approached. "I'm Carl Petersen." "No," answered the Greenlander, "his wife says he is dead ; " and with this response he rowed away from them. During two days longer they continued to follow the coast, sailing southward. At the end of this time they discerned the single mast of a small shallop, and heard words of mingled English and Danish from the sailors on board of her. Thej soon discerned that it was the TJpemavick oil-boat on its way toKingatok to obtain bluober. The annual ship had arrived from Copenhagen at Proven ; and this was one of the boats which supplied Iier with a cargo of oil. From the sailors on board the shallop. Dr. Kane first received information of the great events which, during his ab- Bcence had agitated the world to which he had been 80 long a stranger ; how England and France had com- bined with the Turk to humble the haughty pride of the imperial Romanoff; and how vast armies were then engaged in mortal strife on the once quiet and fertile plams of the Crimea. For the first time he learned the importance which Sebastopol had ac- quired in the history and fate of the world, sur- rounded as it then was with a battling host of a hun- dred thousand men. The^ rowed on. Soon Kasarsoak, the snow-capped Summit of Sanderson's Hope appeard to them, tower- ing above the mists ; and as they approached the welome harbor of TJpemavick, from which they had issued several years before in the gallant vessel they had now left behind them, they felt as only such men under such circumstances could feel. During eighth- four days they had lived in the open air^ tossing in trail boats on the bosom of the angry, half-frozep V IMll ^M 514 PROGRESS OF ARCTIO DISCOVERY. deep. 'Hioy were delivered from a thousand deaths, and arrived at last safely at Upernaviek, where they were received with hospitality by the charitable Danes, who inhabit that lonely and cheerless outport of the civilized world. Dr. Kane resolved to embark his party in the Dan- ish vessel the Mariane, which sailed on the 6th of September for the Shetland Islands. They took with them their little boat the Faith, which had accom- panied them throngh eo many adventures. They only retained their clothes and documents, of all they had once possessed on board the Advance. On the 11th they arrived at Godhaven, where they found their for- imer friend Mr. Olrik, the Danish Inspector of North Greenland. Here Dr. Kane first heard of the squad- ron under Captain Hartstene* which had been sent out from the United States in pursuit of him, &pd tlearned that it had touched at that spot. This squadron consisted of two Vessels, the United States barque "Release," and the United States steam- brig " Arctic." They had sailed from New York in June 1855, and on the 9th of July they were at Lievely on the coast of Greenland. On that day they ^ ^resumed their search after the party of Dr. Kane, and sailed for "Waigat Strait, intending to touch at Uper- naviek for information. From Upernaviek both vessels stood northward. They soon met the floating ice .drifting down; but they persisted in advancing, and 'thus worked along for forty miles to Wedge Sand. Here they were compelled to moor themselves to the bergs, and await the opening of the ice, which had be- come so compact as to render their immediate ad- vance impossible. After several days the ice opened, and enabled them to proceed. They then steamed to , Sugar Loaf Island, and entered the closely packed I flpe of Melville Bay. By the 13th of August they had forced a passage into the North "Water, after twenty-eight days or laborious sailing. They then passed Cape York and Wolstenholme Island. Here DK. KANl^ EXPEDITION. 615 hastening on in the steamer, Oaptain Hartstene visited Cape Alexander and Southerland Island. These points were beyond the reach of the'Esquimaux, and might probably contain traces of Dr. Kane's party. They were thoroughly searched; but no evidence ap- peared that any human foot had ever invaded those frozen solitudes. Thence they advanced to Pelham Point, where they observed a few stones piled together. A part^ landed here, and beneath this rude m^ument they discovered a small vial with the letter K. cut in the cork. The vial contained a large musquito, and a smallpiece of cartridge paper, on which was written "i?r. Jfon^, 1863." This discovery induced Captain Hartstene to pltth further north. The ice however soon stoppea'liis progress ; and drifting southward with the current, he examined Cape HottDrton and Littleton Island. But no trace of Dr. Kane was found, though in a for* mer letter to hi#%rother, he had expressed his int^- tion to erect a cairn on one of these localities.^ Fif- teen miles north-west of Cape Alexander they discov- ered a party of Esquimaux, who, three miles distant on the Qreenlaud shore, had a temporary settlement of seven tents, inhabited by thirty persons. Here Captain Hartstene found many articles which had be- longed to Dr. Kane's party, and which had been left behind ; such as tin pans and pots, canvas and iren spikes, as well as the tube of a telescope which was recognized as having belonged to Dr. Kane. Captain Hartstene closely interrogated the Esqiii- maux as to their knowledge of the missing company. From them he learned that Dr. Kane, havmg lost 2ub vessel somewhere in the ice to the northward, had been at;ihat point with two boats and a sled, and af- ter remaining there ten days had proceeded soa^- ward toward U pernavick. With such conclusive evi- dence before him Captain Hartstene also determined to return southward. He touched at Cape Alexander, Sutherland Islands, and Hakluyt Island. Thenoe he p>B>— — — fthi 516 PBOOBESS OF ABOTIO DISCOYEBY. fiteered for the entrance of •Lancaster Sound, and ex- amined the coast between Cape Horsburg and Cape Warrander. Alter passing Cape BuUin he found the ice firmly packed, and the vessels seemed frozen into their winter quarters. But after twenty-four hours spent in a laborious attempt to batter their way through the ice they succeeded ; and after thus ma- kinff the circuit of nearly the whole northern part of Bamn's Bay, they returned toward Possession and Pound's Bay. Along this whole voyage they con- stantly fired guns, burned blue-lights and threw up rockets, w^^h the hope of attracting the attention of the wanderers. They were disappointed however, ain^ seeing no traces of Dr. Kane s party whatever, Ol^ttain Hartstene concluded that they had passed through Melville Bay to Upemavick ; and he resolved at once to follow them thither. \ His conjecture was right. On the 11th of Septem- ber, as the Greenland vessel Mariibe was about set- ting out from the port of Godhaven, having Dr. !Kan^s party on board, the look-out man at the hill- top announced the approach of a distant steamer, ^oon- she came nearer, having a barque in tow ; and the immortal stars and stripes floating majestically ^t lier mast-head. Instantly the Faith was lowered fi^m the side of the Mariane, and the party in her puUed lustily for the approaching vessel. All the .boats of the settlement hurried after her wake. Pre- sently the Faith was alongside the Arctic ; and Cap- tain Sartstene eagerly hailed a little man in a ragged fiannel shirt; "/« that Dr. KaneV^ An affirmative answer was instantly returned by the Doctor him- self: and in a few moments the distinguished naviga- tor pounded on the deck of his country's ship; was received with loud plaudits of welcome by her com- v^der and crew ; and%us Jio and his party returned lOgain, as those alive from the dead, to an unfrozen warld of civilization, comfort, and security. Dr. ^a^pi^-B labors had not resulted in the discovery of '«L DR. KAMl^EXrKDlTION. 517 any traces or temains of Bfer Jphn Franklin's party ; but it was tho means of s^ec&nnj^ important additions to geographical knowledge, and valuable acquisitions in botany, meteorology, geology, and other depart- n-ents of science. His researches have left but little to be obtained by any successor in Arctic explora- tions; however resolute, vigorous, and accomplished he may be. Dr. Kane and his associates returned to New York in the squadron of Captain Hartstene, on the 11th of October, 1855. . : » i ' ^ y -m t- 5 FEONTIER LIFE; , SCENES AND ADVENTDEfeS IN THE SOUTH-WEST. By F. Hardmaa, Illustxated Hoslin, 876 pp., 12mo. Price, 81 25. Sold by an Booksellers. MallcJ, post-pall, to any aldresSfupon receipt ofprioa C. M. SAXTON, MILLER & Co., Publishers, • -'. , ., 25 Park Raic, Neio Tork^ % ■Hi iiiilii.iiiijBalitWIlMigg FROST'S I»ICTORIA.L HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA, raOM THB PKBIOD OF THB CONQUEST BT SFAIN TO THB FOBMATZOZT OF A STATE ; OONTAININO AN ACCOUNT OF THX GOLD inNES BESOUBCEB, ADTENTUBBS AMONG THE KtSEBB, ABYICE TO EMI0RANT8, ETC., KTO. Frontispiece and Uluatrationa* 422 pp., 12mo.9 Price f 1 00* To gratify the pablie cariosity with respect to the history and present state of this new memt>er of the Union, is the pnrpose of this volume. In preparing it, the anthor has pasaed rapidly over the early history, and dwelt chiefly on recent events, and the ao> tual state of the country, as he considered that, bv this course, utility would be more ef* fectaally consulted. Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, to any address, upon receipt of priofli, C. M. SAXTON, MILLER & Co.. Publishera, • 95 Pari' Rote, New York. OREGrON", ITS HISTORY, CONDITION AND PROSPECTS: coTsnAiNisaj PERSONAL ADVENTTJIiES AMONG THE IimiANS, AND TXOTEa OF A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD BY REV. G. HINES. One Volume^ 437 pp. ISmo., Portrait. Price $1 00. »»« FROM THE PREFACE. Hie prinoipal reason which induced the pnblHation of this work, wu • deiire to connect with entertainment the promotion of & snore ezten* ■ire knowledge of those interesting portions of the world where it haa bMB the privilege of the author to travel and make his observations. While the world is literally teeming with fiotitions pablicationi, here is presented a volume of facts ; and in the absence of. the tinsel adornment of a glowing and high-sounding style, the tmthftilness of what is narrated is the principal merit to which the work is entitled. The part relating to the history of the Oregon Mission it i« believed will supply the public with needed information respecting the trna eharaioter of that important Mission, .«nd of the conrageons and self-de* Dying men who were_ the first to carry the gospel across the Reeky Mountains, and to proclaim it along the shores of the Pacific. T1i6 last few chapters of the bbok are devoted exclusively to the ge> egmjAy and history of the Oregon Territory. From a residenee of several years in Oregon, connected with the fact that he made it «lea