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A SKETCH 
 
 OF TlIK 
 
 BUXTON MISSION 
 
 AMI 
 
 ELGIN SETTLEMENT 
 
 KALKMUI 
 
 CAT^ADA AVI:^S1 
 
 .1. S. WILSON. I'lilN I 
 
 lill!\llN«il!AM 
 
 I'l! ANI> LAW srAH<>Nl.H.. ANN MIIKKT. 
 
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 Of «^ » >' 
 
A SKETCH 
 
 or TIIK 
 
 BUXTON MISSION & ELGIN SETTLEMENT, 
 
 KALEKJH, 
 CJAN^VDA AVJilST. 
 
 1'he Bnxtdii, or, us if is sometimes ciillcd, the Elgin Settlement, in 
 sitnated in the to\vn^hi|) of Uiileigh, county Kent, ("imiidu West, 
 iihoiit eight miles soiith-eiist of ('hiithiun, which is :i station on the 
 Great Western Railway. It lies l>et\veen tlie livt'i'l'linmes .ind Lake 
 Erie, and at present ctjvers uhont eiglileen sijuare miles of country, 
 embracing,! iiopidatioii of over 1,2(M) persons. 
 
 It was formed '>y the Itev. William King, in the year 184'J, witha 
 view to the social and moral improvement of the colored population 
 of Canada. 'I'lu' circumstiiuccs whi.'li led in its foruKition were these: 
 Mr. Kmg, a native of l>i ndondeiry, Ireland, had come ovi'r when a 
 youth to the I'nited States, and hiid tix.'d his I'esidenee in I.niusiiina. 
 where during some years he occupied an inllueiitial position in con- 
 i.ection with the Ijouisiana College at Jackson. Here he a.ssoiMatod 
 and mingled tVrely with the first taiuilies in the Statt, and lierunie 
 familiarly acipiainted with their ])eculiar institutions Holding 
 strongly to the princl[)le that personal freedom is the iidierent and 
 inalienable right of every man, and not hesitating on suitable occa- 
 sions to acknowledge this view, he nevertheless avoided such rasii 
 words and acts as would have caused him at once to forfeit the con- 
 fidence of those amongst whom he dwelt ; a;id meantime he used 
 his favorable stand point to midce himself familiar with the strongest 
 arguments thai could be brougiit forv.ard in favor of Slavery, with 
 the hnvs of the couuMy respecting it. with its political and social 
 
\viirkiu,i.MUi(l with rhv oliariutir ami capabilities of the colorerl man, 
 in order that no knuwledgo of the strength of the system should be 
 wanting to liim when the antiei])ated time should arrive for action. 
 
 Believing Slavery tu be a great moral and social evil, at variance 
 with the laws of (Jud, and opposed to the pure precepts of the (Jos- 
 pel, he pent i\td that it was fast huiTying to destruction the people 
 bv wlioui it was maintained. He was further convinced that li, was 
 impossible, while living in the midst of it, to brmg up his family 
 free from its contaminating inlluences : lie therefore determined, 
 whatever sacrifices it should cost him, to free himself from itstram- 
 mels, and to separate himself entirely from it. In consequence 
 however of legal ditHculties, this resolution coidd not be carried into 
 innnediate execution. He therefore, witli a view to its furtheranc(3, 
 purchased a phmtation, on whicli he ])laced his slaves, giving them 
 tlic ]iro(.eeds of tlieir own laiior, until the time should (•i)me that 
 would enable ium to .set them five ; thus developing in them the 
 spirit of self-reliance, and training them for the exercise of the du- 
 ties of the state offreedou) in which he purj)osed to place them. 
 
 The legal dilhculties which had hitherto stood in his way having 
 been overcome, he sold his ])lantation, and in .\pril, 1848, removed 
 the slaves, tiftcen in uund)er, to Canada, and Micre gave them tlicir 
 freedom; these settliu'.:- aroiuni him liecanie the nucleus of the Elgin 
 Settlement. n<iw c<.vciiug so large a sp.ice. 
 
 Shortly alter the passing of the Fugitive Slave Bill which deprived 
 the Slave refugees of all safety in the United States, a general move- 
 ment was made by them towaids l'pi'<-'' Canada, '["his sudden ac- 
 cession roused the latent jealousy of the white settlers into active 
 hostility, whiv-l» was just at its height wiieu .\Ir. King arrived with 
 his charge. .Vnimated by a noble Christian philanthropy which led 
 him to regard these oiitca.stsas men \md lirethren, he had previously 
 designed a plan lor the amelioration of tiieir social condition, and 
 the elevation of their moral and intellectual character, which con- 
 sisted in providing the adults with a home, and the youtii with the 
 means of ( 'lir-istiau ediuation. by forming a set tieuient in whieh land 
 
 A 
 
sliould be granted to tliein on easy tenua, and provision niiide for 
 their spiritual wants as well as their mental development. 
 
 The rumour of Mr. King's design having preeedcd him, he en- 
 countered on entering the Province the most A'iolent opposition, 
 (."ombinations were formed, in which the parties swore to take his 
 life if he should show himself in their vicinity; threatening letters 
 were sent to him expressing furious indignation at his project, and 
 a public meeting from three counties was convened by the sheriff, 
 to influence popidur feeling, in order to prevent him from carrying 
 his design into effect. Only one man was found to lift up his voice 
 in that assembly, professing to give a home in their midst to the 
 M'anderer ! 
 
 A committee was appointed to watch his proceedings, and peti- 
 tions, numerously and influcntially signed, were sent to the Com- 
 missioner of ( Jrovi'n Lands earnestly demanding that no grant should 
 on iuiy consideration be made for his purpose. A less resolute spirit 
 must have retired before such obstacles, but Mr. King, assured of 
 the rigliteousness of his cause, gathered new stimulus from difficulty, 
 and securing the co-operation of Lord Elgin, then Governor ( Jeneral 
 of Canada, succi^eded in carr\'ing his point, and thus savtnl Britain 
 from the disgrace of refusing that asyliun to the outcast which it 
 has long been her glory to afford. A grant was made of a tract of 
 land which had heen selected and ajjprovcd by com[)L'tent judges, 
 and which practical men, interested in the scheme, pronounced one 
 of tlie most desirable in the Province. 
 
 Mr. King, with his assistants, immediately set about surveying 
 and laying off the nine thousand acres of which the grant consisted, 
 into lots (/f fifty acres ei\ch. 
 
 it was in December, IJ^-ID, that Mr. King, who had been imani- 
 mously appointed agent of the lOlgin Association, ti.xed his residence 
 on the settlement, to which the name of "liuxton" was given in 
 honor of tliat friend of humanity, Sir T. F. Buxton. Mr. King's 
 house, which stands some way back from the middle road running 
 ea,st and west througli the southern part of the settlement, had been 
 
built and occupied for several yeurs by a white settler. It is a long 
 lew building of log, and was at first i>f most unpretending appear- 
 ance, but buildings which were fur a while used as a church and solwtol 
 house have since been incorporated in tiie dwelling house; and a 
 gallery in front shaded by luxuriant grape vines, a belfry rising high 
 above the house, the erection of a handsome barn and outbiuldings 
 at the rear, together with the long avenue of siiade trees leading up 
 from the road, and the tasteful white fences with which the premi8e;j 
 are enclosed, have contributed to give to the whole, when seen 
 against the brilliant blue sky and embosomed in the rich gi-een 
 loliage of a <-'unadian suuuner, a i)ictures(pie and charming aspect. 
 More recently a church, ischool-house and post-office have been put 
 up on the piemises, immediately fronting the main road ; these are 
 likewise of log, yet they have about them a degree of rustic beauty, 
 thoxigh they are designed shortly to be succeeded by more prerna- 
 ment structures. 
 
 In a very short time a I'umber of the fifty acre lots were disposed 
 of to actual settlers at two dollars and a half ])er acre, to be paid in 
 ten equal annual instalments with interest ; the whole being paiil 
 up, the settler to receive a title to the land in fee simple. These 
 terms imve been fuliilled, and the settlers have received their deeds. 
 It Wiis also reipiired that each settler, on entering his lot, should 
 immediately put up a house, not inferior to a prescrii)cd model, 
 ^vhich was of log, twenty-four feet long, by eighteen feet wide, and 
 twelve high, to be set back thirty-tiu-ee feet from the road, and en- 
 closed in front with a picket fence. Any who wished were at liberty 
 to make their houses as nuicli larger and i)etter as they cliose, and 
 in many cases did so. Some came in with nothing but their strong 
 right arm to help them ; others liad acquired a little j^i'operty, and 
 commenced at a much greater advantage ; the former had, in a 
 literal sense, "to take their bread out of a stump," and hard enougii 
 their work proved. The land Wiis heavily timbered with elm, hick- 
 ory, oak, maple and ash, which nuist be hewn down, consumed, and 
 the la'ushwuod cleared mit liefore an ear of corn could 1)0 raised. 
 
ir- 
 
 ...1 
 
 a 
 
 n 
 
 'U 
 
 Tliu liiiul heiii^ lovcl uiul the soil clayey, it was nocrssary to (»i)OU 
 nuuieri)ii« ditclius in order to carry uit' the water to tlie creeks, 
 wliich, when properly kept open, sui)ply sutiicieut drainage. 
 
 The parallel roads or conces^'ions which intei*sect the settlement 
 at intervals of 200 acres, existed only on the charts, avid the tower- 
 iiif,' giants of the forest, who had so long held undisturbed possession, 
 would not yield an inch exccjit to the fatal stroke of the axe. 'I'he 
 ditticultics were indeed great, each man however understood, on 
 coming in, that all he was to receive was the opportunity to make 
 a home and aequire independence — "work or sink" was the motto — 
 and results abundantly testify that almost all adopted the former 
 alternative. 
 
 Meanwhile, in furtherance of the moral interests of the settlers, a 
 mission was formed, sui)ported by the " Canada Presbyterian Free 
 Church," and Mr. King, being a minister in that body, was appointed 
 to the charge. Schools were opened in which, in addition to the 
 ordinary branches taught in the connnon schools, opportunities 
 were atloided for acipiiring a knowledge of the classics, and higher 
 branches of literature, to such as might aspire to the professional or 
 scientific walks of life. Three other school-houses have since been 
 erected in the nio.'e remote parts of tlie settleujient, which are con- 
 ducted on the connnon school system of the country, so that there 
 arc now four schools, with an attendance of three hundred scholai's. 
 Two hundred of these attend the KSabbath schools. Seven hundred 
 have already jjassed through the mission school, and received a good 
 common education, whilst others have been trained as teachers ami 
 ai'c now occupying important posts both in Canada and the States. 
 Ctne of the former pupils is teaching in the City of Washington, 
 another in Chatham, Cana<la West. Two others are engaged as 
 Surgeons in the hospital at Washington, and another has nearly 
 (•,om[ileted his Collegiate course at Torontu. The schools are now- 
 all self-su})portiiig : the settlers have subscribed this year (18G(j) 
 one thousand dollars for educational pur^joses, besides four hundred 
 dollars which luui been raised towards the erection of a brick school 
 
Iioiise in the village of Biixt mi. The church in goufl weiither is well 
 iittcnded, and a hirge number of tlie hearers are chxu'ch nunnbers ; 
 tho Sabliath hcIuidI opens ininiediately after the mornini; service, at 
 which time also Mr. Kin<j; conducts a Bililc class for the adults at 
 his own house. Libraries have been jirovided for tlie use both of 
 the schools and the conj^'regation. 
 
 The Methodist and Haptist forms of worshiii, in which more free- 
 dom and license are allowed to the hearei's, are however better 
 suited than Prcsbyterianism to the impulsive and demonstrative 
 feolinj,'S of the African. A large majority therefore ai'e attached to 
 these denominations; and, as ])erfect liberty has been afforded them, 
 they have erected churches of their own ; and a very larire propor- 
 tion of the popnlati;Mi aie to be foimd every Sabbath day attending 
 some place of worship. 
 
 Settlers continued from the first to come in every year. In 1855 
 a pood saw and grist mill was jiut up in Buxton, by means of which 
 abundance of excellent timber was sup])lie('., so that the erection of 
 good h(»uses proceeded more rapidly than before, in the ensuing 
 year a brick yard and pearlash factory were added ; likewi.se a store, 
 a two-sturv brick hotel and a good frame house, ii'tended for a 
 prixate lK)arding house ; and a new bi-anch of industry was opened, 
 which has already proved of the greatest possible advantage. This 
 is the making of black salts, which are prepared from the iishes of 
 varioii.s kinds of timber, and arc afterwards disjioscd of to the man- 
 ufacturers of p >t and pearlash. The only exj)ense inciUTcd is the 
 purchase of the large kettle tor boiling. By tlii.s means also the 
 work of clearing the land has been greatly stinudated, and vast 
 quantities of wood, w liich nuist otherwise have lieen utterly wasted, 
 have been converted into an article of high commercial value, and 
 become a valuable source of wealth ^) the community. 
 
 Indoors, many are engaged in prei)arin'4 and spinning flax and 
 wool fur garments, and theu is no doubt that this most desirable 
 liranch of industry will shortly be practised to a much greater ex- 
 tent. The hindrance hitherto hiis been the impossibility ui' rai.sing 
 
9 
 
 ah'ep on dniiip or newly- cleared jiuids. This obativcle is becoming 
 k'Hi- every yesir, and we have good hopes of seeing in a few years the 
 f veiy-day garl) of the connuiinity entirely of their own manufacture. 
 The land on the older clearings is already lit for raising flax and 
 tobacco. Scviral of the settlers are well accinainted with the culti- 
 vation of these jdants, and the UKjde of preparing them for use or 
 for the ni.irki.t, and are proposin'4 to devote a considerable portion 
 of their time and land to these jmrjjoscs. 
 
 From its eommeucement till the present time, the history uf the 
 Bu.xton si.'ttlement has been one of gradual advancement in all 
 things wliich constitute the prosperity of an agricultural people; 
 yet, like all similar movements, it has liad its tluctiiations. The 
 zeal and enthusiasm with wliicii many at first entered upon their 
 arduous i)ut hopeful task, gave way lor a tim-.' ln'f'on' the eoniiiiu- 
 ance ot severe lalior, unaceonrjanicd l)y present rc(piital, tlicso 
 persons leaving their farms and going el.scrt'iiere to .seek employment; 
 of coun-.e, their ov.n l.aids were nej:le('ted, or nearly so, and it is 
 obvious tiiat such neglect would be injurious in an unopened r imtry 
 not only to the interests of the individual, but also to those of his 
 neighbours. Two or tiu-ee years' desidtory labour, which, though 
 for the present more remunerative, did uot advance their ]>ernianeut 
 interests, servi'd to sliow uiost ol'tiiem their erroi-, and tliey returned 
 to liuxton witli rviiewed deteriuination to persevere in tlu' woik, 
 which, though bai'reu aud tnilisonie at lirst, was a sure road to inile- 
 pondeuee and plenty. 
 
 (n IS")?, the KIgin .settlement was honoured witli a visit from 
 Lord AlthorjK', now Ivirl Spencer, in company with several other 
 gentlemen. Besides calling on some of the .settlers, and witnessing 
 the cimditiou of tla-ir hou.ses and fanus, lie iuid the opportimity of 
 seeing them gathered together on the t)Ccasioii, when a lianquet — 
 of which several himdreds partook — was provided iu an arbor 
 erected for t!ie jturpose iu a grove on Mr. King's farm. The settlers 
 and their distinguished guests were mutually delighted with the 
 novel scene. >>i»-""e that time similnr festivals have been held on the 
 

 ID 
 
 lirst of AiiL;ii.st to colebrato Wewt India Einiinciiiiitiou. Tlicso occa- 
 sions, oil wliicli the (liiinor is fiirnishcil l)y tli(> comumnity fiom 
 thfir oit'v prothice, would satisfy the eii(|iiinHg stnuiiivr tl:at tlicn; 
 was no sciircit}- among tlioni of tho necessaries, and even of tlie 
 inxnrios of the faliK". Turkeys, fowls, ducks, roast j)igs, geese, ven- 
 ison, licef, niiitt(.ii, and land), load the hoard. Wgetahles of all 
 kinds, licitiitocs, [i-.usniiis, |)e;is, French h >anH, asparagus, <tc., witii 
 pickles and lavstrvrs, are on hand : whilst rich iced cakes and 
 jiast ry, in various forms, disfilay tiie tiste and skill in cookery, so 
 chaniL'teiistic of tlie race. 
 
 i.nrd .Althoipc and his frienrls were hiirhly satisfied with what 
 fhcy saw of tlie jirosjierity of this interesting community ; and the 
 siuue feeling has lieen e.\|iii'ssed iiy numerous other intelligent 
 visitors to iJiixtoii. 
 
 Sixteen yeii's a;^ii, when Mr. Kill;: tirst came to liiixton, the whole 
 country was one nnltiokcii foi-i'st; thi' wild deer and the wolf ro<'uned 
 unmolested tlir<ie,L'.i its dark solitudes. Roads, thi'i'o were none, 
 with the exceptii of the military line rnnning from Lonchni to 
 Sandwich through the centre of the peninsula- laid out by Colonel 
 'I'alliut after the war with the United States in 1SI2, and settled on 
 each side with liritisli suhjects, who received grants of 100 ucri's 
 eacli oil Condition of creciiii;.c a l.ig cahin and clearing a certain 
 jMiiiitui of land 'ii I'ach side of the road. .\t the present time up- 
 wards of "iOOd acres of fTest land have luen i'|car<'d and laid under 
 (iiltivatic'ii. 'rw('iity-ti\(' miles uf road have lieeii openeil up through 
 the settlement in various directions, the same extent of drainage has 
 ;ilso heen completed, icndering the whole land dry, with a goixl road 
 to eacli farm. 
 
 'I wo iiuiulivd and lifty families have here made themselves com- 
 Initahle holm .>, where they n.'>w live snpportim: themselves hv tln'ir 
 iiwn industry. In \\\><>,\ of tiiese dwellings the family altar has heen 
 set up, wliriicc the Voice of praise and prayer a.scends from griit( fnl 
 hearts to the I'athi'i' of all mercies. It is satisfactory also tnhealtio 
 tM stati' th.ii. i.iiih as rc-ards licallh ami m.i|-als, the settlement will 
 
 
n 
 
 hour ftivoumlilo ct>iiii)..i'isuu with aiiv coiDiiimiitv of the same size. 
 Nothing thiit iutoxitates is niKclo or sold in the sttiknicut, and 
 drunkenness is a crime almost unknown among the settlers. 
 
 Most of their houses have been put up ou t'le jires^rihed model, 
 hut many are of frame which have a nuu li laater appeai'auee, and 
 are capable of a much higher degiee of fiuit^h, l;esidcs which there 
 arc several brick houses, the bricks for Ashiih were niiide at the 
 brick-yanl in Huxt(.n. The log and frame houses are whitewashed ; 
 some ai'e shaded with gallercs and en (ping plants, and surrounded 
 with' neat fences enclosing tasteful gardens. 
 
 In the year 1862, there were thrte hunihc d acrts m wu in wheat. ; 
 six hundred in Indian corn ; two hundred in oa\.i ; two hundred 
 and fifty, meadow; about four hundred weiv devoted to potatoes, 
 peas, turnips, buckwheat, Sec. ; fourteen to toliaccn, ar.l sixteen to 
 flax. Tiicre were owned by tlie settlers, -.nc hundred yoke of oxen 
 (used in farming), one hundred and thiity horses, two hundred and 
 fifty milch cows, eighty sheep, and hogs without numlier, and eveiy 
 succeeding year hius been adding to the wealth of the settlei-s. 
 
 Indoors, their homes consist of a large room with a j)lank tluoi' ; 
 at one end is a huge chinmey, where, duiing the long cold winters, 
 the blazing lugs diU'iise cheeii'ul light and heat. In most cases a 
 small riicm is partitioned oft" for a sleejiing apartment ; the whole is 
 ceiled with boards, and the si)ace between these and tin.' shingled 
 roof is aKo divided into two compartments as sleeping lofts. In the 
 moanest of these dwellings tlu'i'e is at least one decent liedstead, a 
 talile, a few t.iairp, iVc. In most, these conveniences are much 
 mon numerous, and some of the better houses are buili (.•oiufortably 
 and neatly funiished, and adorned with uay prints; and happily 
 there is no fear of distraining for rent cr !iny such calamitv. 
 
 The natural taste of the c<. loured race for nnis .' has been developeil 
 and cultiva*^ed by the fovniation of singing classes, conducted by ojie 
 of themselves, on Ilullah's vnca! .system, in which they have made 
 very creditabk' progress. Twi^ niusiial bands liavi been funurd, our 
 in conuectifU with the nulitaiy (in.iiHix ; the itlur, a brass baud. 
 
12 
 
 for festivji! occasiuiis, in now under tiainiiig by agotitleman of much 
 experience, who speaks highly of their progi'eps. 
 
 AVrit-ng in Fobriiarv, 186t), Mr. King says : "This settlement is 
 a standing jjrotest against the charges brought against the Negro, 
 of idleness and incapacity to manage his own business. Just at 
 tills critical period in the reconstruction of the slave states, and the 
 settlement of other questions connected with the freedom of the 
 si ive, it is well that we have at le:ist one community '<f freed men, 
 of whom it can bo said tli it they are self-supporting and industrious. 
 While enjoying all the riirhts of freemen, they are well behaved, and 
 exercise tlieir civil riglits with as much judgment as any (jther 
 scttl'.rs coming into the province. 'I'n-day, the thermometer stands 
 tive degrees below zero, witli snow a foot deep, and yet there is not 
 ati iil)lc-bodie(l man in the settlement who is not in the woods with 
 axe and crosscut saw miking stave- for the foreign market, and 
 ttiking saw lo-,'s to the mill. There is a high price for timber and 
 sti'.ves ; this is the motive to exerti<'U and all are busy. The n)ill 
 this yeur will deliver .')O0,()(»0 feet if timber at the end of the 
 Centre lioad, which is now c )mpletcd to the lake, and in summer is 
 one 0*' tiie loveliest drives in the west. From the middle road to the 
 lake is a straiglu wide avenue, with the primitive forest trees of 
 stately growth on each side ; at the ond of the avenue Lake Erie 
 bui-sts up;)n the view in all its maji'sty. The opening up of this 
 ioad has give.i a new impulse to the industry of the settlei-s, iis it 
 has given them a(;cess to a ready maiket for any amount of staves, 
 hrowood, lumber. A'c. riie settlement never has been in a more 
 prosperous condition than it is this year." 
 
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