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Les diagrammes suivants iilustrent la mAthode. r V z 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 y. y. y. 11 fit I I I ANCIENT Towers and Doorways BEING Pictorial Representations and Restorations of Masoncraft relating to Celtic and Norman Ecclesiology in Scotland From Pen Drawings by the late ALEXANDER GALLETLY FIRST CURATOR OF THK KIJINIIURGH MUSEUM OF SCIKNCK AMI ART With Appreciation and Descriptive Letterpress by ANDREW TAYLOR wmM. r.ONDON: DAVID NU I I', 270-271 S'I'RAND 1896 1: HA. ^-^^^^ • '^ "^ i ^' QUEEN'S UNIVER'^ITY I'BRAW PREFACE. r Mr Galletly's sudden decease in the Spring of 1894, the pen and ink sketches reproduced in the following pages were found to be the most tangible memorials of his busy life. The first Curator of the Edinburgh Industrial Museum sought relief from the multiplicity of objects embracing the whole circle of applied science engaging his official day, in architectural draughtsmanship which was his first love ere beginning what was to be his life work under the late Professor George Wilson ; when repeatedly acting as superintending clerk of works — whether in arranging temporary premises, or in the erection through years of the palatial home in Chambers Street, — architectural form became Mr Galletly's ruling passion, dominating alike holiday and leisure time. Minute elaboration of unique architectural features of our old abbeys, rather than their complete delineation, was Mr Galletly's method of work. He left the full completion of the series of drawings to the after years, which he was not permitted to see. The sketches now published, which include elaborate restorations of doorways at Edrom, Kelso, and Jedburgh, given it is believed first here, result from numerous visits, the taking of careful measurements often not without peril, but recorded in over fifty tiny note-books, occasionally beautified by coloured impromptu drawings, and the free use of photography. Many of the negatives thus obtained, as well as copies of the small pen and ink sketches, may be found reproduced in our process blocks. No literary matter connected with these drawings was left, except the half page describing Kirkwall Cathedral ; in the circumstances it has been attempted to make them a connected archa;ological study. One cannot engage in such a work as this without a reminder that death reigns. Mr James M'Lagan, with the enthusiasm of an artist, and the decision of a business man, gave his judgment, aid, and sympathy in the initiation of this book. In November last Mr M'Lagan was suddenly taken from his business room on a Thursday, and died peacefully on the following Sunday from paralytic shock, in the 50th year of his age. Amongst the books consulted have been, Muir's "Characteristics of Scottish Church Architecture ;" killings' " Baronial Antiquities of Scotland ;" Macgibbon and Ross' " Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland," Vol. I. ; Miss Stokes' works, specially that on 2449GI VI PREFACE. " Early Christian Architecture in Ireland;" Keane " On Towers and Temples of Ancient Ireland;" Freeman's " Norman Conquest," specially Vols. IV. and V. ; Sir Gilbert Scott's " Lectures on Mediaeval Architecture ;" " Statistical Accounts of Scotland — Old and New ;" Dr Jamieson's " History of the Culdees ;" Ebenezer Henderson's " Annals of Dunfermline ;" Hill-Burton's " Scotland," Vols. I. and II. ; " Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland;" Watson's "Jedburgh Abbey;" Jeffrey's "History of Roxburgh ;" Metcalfe's " Scottish Saints ;" P. Macgregor Chalmers' "St Ninian's Candida Casa ;" Dr Don's " Archa-ological Notes on Early Scotland ;" Hay Fleming's " Guide Book to St Andrews," &c. Mr Inglis, photographer, Calton Hill, Edinburgh, has allowed the use of his plates of St Mary's, Haddington, and Holyrood West Doorway. I have to thank Mr David Douglas for permitting the reproduction of the Celtic Cross, a drawing of which Mr Galletly contributed to Watson's "Jedburgh Abbey." The vignette, like most of those in the succeeding chapters, has been copied from a pencil sketch of the continental note books, giving the result of architectural studies made during spring and autumn tours from 1883 till 1891. The Photo-lithographs in some copies do not follow their consecutive numbering, arising from a change of plan in the literary part of the book. t AI'irAI.S, KIC, OK DOORWAV, ST PIERRE, LYONS. CONTENTS. Preface, Appreciation, . Page V ix CHAPTER I. RELATING TO HISTORICAL AND fOUNATR MATTERS. From Culdees to Queen Margaret — Rise of Norman influence in StHillaiul I liiitorical testimony of mason- craft— Modern vandalism, Z^ffrrworf C*«>rA Atmospheric dwny- /)«c/ij^A>« Z)o()n, 1896, - 1-4 CHAPTER II. THE CELTIC ISLAND MISSIONS. 5/ Blane's, Bitfe— St Ninian— Catan -Kilchattan— St Ulane's Church nnd SoHlumcnt— Columba and lona — AMey — St Oran's C/iapel—Cat/iedral—VecotMinX Capital!)— St Orait's Doorway, 5-ij CHAPTER III. SPECIALLY ABOUT IRISH ROllNO lOWERS. >4/-(//H(»-^— Cloyne— Kinneth Continental examples— .V> GtrtriiJi', Xm/fiS /)(S Diims sii Aferse/iiirg — Cashels — Crannog, - • - . . ij_iy CHAPTER IV. THE BEGINNINGS OF ABERN? ' SV AND RKSTRNNKT TOWERS. Kvaiigelising of I'itt I„an(I by (Zo\\m\hA—Abernet/iy Tmvr vVffrww/, Us Arcliitects brought from North- umberland -Mission of Bonifacius, - 18-Ji CHAPTER V. ST MAGNUS, EGI1.SKV. Story of Earls Magnus and Hakon— ^riK«rf Tlwfr (!«.^' v;;''! *■';'■ ■■'■■'' ;-;"-'"'^"'| ■V..-. ,^/:r- ^lioj?:: />" * t' >i' h ^ -T^ AKUMORli lOWMK, IKill.AXD. CHAPTER III. SPECIALLY ABOUT IRISH ROUND TOWERS. |HE Irish Round Tower, " structure strange and column lithe and high," is still the puzzle for the traveller, antiquary, and peasant. What its use was, whether as a place of defence, a lighthouse, like its modern architectural representation, a bell-tower, or a monument and protection of surrounding graves, are all problems of moot controversy not yet proved. When was it built ? Some say in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, though others pre-date this by two centuries. Is it a monument of the Norman conquest of England ? The peasant may still put in the claim of Gobban Saer, " the rusty, large, black youth," celebrated for the crosses, as well as towers, he quickly erected in very primitive times ; for these rose in a night. Another archa;ologist questions. Is the tower a relic of pagan times, subsequently adapted for church use by the early Christian missionaries ? The round tower was distinctly not a military erection, though used as a place of defence. And its Celtic architectural character, as decisively pourtrayed in the accompanying reproduction of Mr Galletly's pen and ink sketch of Ardmore, is different from the English round church bell towers of Norfolk and Suffolk. From this it will be seen as answering to the description of Geraldus Cambrensis, who, writing in 1 1 87, speaks of such " ecclesiastical towers which, in a style and fashion peculiar to the country, are narrow, high, and round." Ardmore {i.e., by some the high place of the Great God), one of the forty-six complete towers still remaining in Ireland, is five miles east from Youghal railway station, on the Irish Sea. Close to it, for these towers are built tome twenty yards west from the door of a church, is St Declan's Oratory, on the ruined arches of which are sculptures judged pre-Christian by some. On the beach is St Declan's Stone, said in legend to have swum before the Saint with a bell he had forgotten when starting from Rome. The tower is 95 feet high, with a stone-capped pyramid for a roof. This is the crown- ing point of every perfect erection of the class. It is 45 feet in circumference at the base, a diameter of 15 feet internally. Its round doorway, 15 feet from the ground, with peculiar mouldings, is also distinctive of thirty-four like standing towers ; for the other twelve have square-headed or quadrangular doors. The perfect ashlar work, and fine joints of the masonry, the grey sandstone, which, though weather-worn in some places, still maintains the lasting characteristics of Irish building stone, are all to be noted. The doorway is about 5 feet high, and, with the peculiarity of like structures, the jambs slope inwards from the arch ; and they admit of the entrance wall broadening during its ascent to that point. For the breadths are i foot 10 inches at sill, and 2 D •4 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. w, 1 I ! ^i ! i ■ '.i I- 1 feet 2 inches at strike of the arch. Brackets of stone, as well as sockets or swivels, admitted of two doors being securely fastened inside. The inner door, probably of iron, was thus not swung, but bolted by these fastenings from the interior. Right above the doorway is the first of four projecting ornamental belts, at each of which there is an intake in the circumference in the interior. At these points, flooring supported by intakes or corbels divided the building into storeys or flats, entrance to which could be obtained by a ladder, afterwards to be pulled up ; so with the hole in the floor shut down, it was impregnable to attack. A tower like this could hold sixty or eighty persons in safety, with suitable stores of provisions. It was often so used during the Danish pirate invasions. But such beleaguered refugees did not escape fire ; it is told in several accounts in " The Annals of the Four Masters," of cruel burnings in these towers by the Vikings who ravaged Ireland in the ninth century. About two feet or so above the external intake in each storey was a small window, which thus commanded an alternate side of the building in the general ascent. If, as likely, these were loopholes mainly for defence, all sides of the beleaguering enemy could thus be assailed by missiles thrown from the sloping sills. The arrows of th*" foe could, on the other hand, find scant entrance to the besieged. At the top of the tower, four triangular-topped windows faced either quarter of the horizon. Of course, a more general and safer onslaught by the besieged might be made here. But if this was used as a bell tower, and the groovings on the outside of the doorway of Ardmore confirm this, when did sweet sounds come down the valley and out seawards ? The illuminated manuscripts testify that for many centuries small bells in ecclesiastical use were like those that used to grace our modern dinner tables, and were struck by the hand. It was only after 1200 A.D. that large bells began to be founded. C/oicb Teach, now translated bell-house, is held by some Celtic scholars to have first meant only stone-house, and was applied to the round towers when subse- quently used for housing bells near the roof Indeed, some towers so used were entirely built of wood. But the practice never took root in Ireland. If Ardmore was so used, it was only at a late and limited time. The traveller from Ardmore to Cork may pass on the way two like structures, Cloyne and Kinneth, with square-headed doors, and generally built in a more primitive fashion. In the Cloyne Round Tower may be seen " cyclopean masonry," as it is termed, that is, great stones 3 feet to 2 feet 3 inches broad, and 8 inches to 16 inches high, with no mortar in their joints, which, though wonderfully fitted together, are jagged and uneven ; and no pointing, but the stones all the while shaped to the round. There is no string externally. The upper part is said to be modem. The jointing at the square doorway, and at the upper triangle-headed window, is both fine and peculiar ; its irregular bands of small stones alternating with more even ones of larger ones, give a powerful resistance to lightning shocks, planned before conductors came into use. Kinneigh or Kinneth Tower, county Cork, rises from an octagonal base. This, too, is cyclopean in its lower part, up to the door sill. The door is 4 feet 9 inches high, with fine joints at its bottom and top, and is 2 feet 4 inches, and 2 feet i inch respectively, broad. There are two intakes for floors within. Its height is 70 feet, and the internal diameter at the door level is 9 feet, with 4 feet 5 inches of thickness of wall. This is associated with the name of Cobban Sacr as a builder, one of whose castles was said to be :l ! SPECIALLY ABOUT IRISH ROUND TOWERS. »5 not far away ; he, again, is connected by some with certain Danaan mysteries of the race preceding the Celts in invading Ireland. There are underground passages near. The round towers, in truth, appear to have been always more or less in active building or repair till the beginning of this century, when the ii8 then said to exist fell gradually into the hands of the improving destroyer. Besides those forty-six more perfect ones already mentioncil, the stumps of twenty such once high -pires now lie near rhe surface. If, as local authorities think, Kinneigh, too, has been tlioroughly repaired .11 recent times, it is not singular. Indeed, if we rely on traditional story, Columba's prayer for angelic deliverance to the monk falling from the Round Tower of Durrow, as well as the help yielded by similar means to the tired monks when working as masons, may be put in here as proofs of adroitness in stone work of the early Celtic monks at the time of St Patrick and Columba. So, too, may the round towers on the Continent, by missionary monks from the great seminary at Bangor, in Antrim. Though that, TOWERS, WEST SIDE, GERNRODE, HARTZ. when first started, was only a series of buildings of oak and withes, a style of building con- tinued even so late as the twelfth century, when an improving bishop, meaning to re-build in the Norman style just introduced in England, was sternly rebuked. Why did he not adopt the earlier materials ? It was tluis, too, in military structures. For Cambrensis, in A.D. 1185, writes, "that the Irish built erections of osiers, and the woods gave planks, &c., for fortifications, whilst morasses were sufficient for entrench- ments." It was only in or about this time that the prophecy of the Druids, quoted by the late Professor Kelly, of Maynooth, as occurring in the older lives of St Patrick, came to be fulfilled, " that a foreigner would come to substitute quadrangular for the round Pagan buildings."* Such a square bell-tower of stone was built in 1331 for Christ's Church in Dublin. ' D!'=;=rtation on Irish Churcli History," ]). 1 76. ! t6 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. There are nine instances in Ireland where the tower forms part of the church buildings. Similar examples in Scotland and its isles fall to be noted in next chapter. Both Italy and the Rhine countries show numerous like examples. The double towers at St Gall, near Lake Constance, St Michael, and St Gabriel, recall the connection of the founder of the monastery at Bobbio with Columbanus, who had been trained at the Irish Bangor. Mr Galletly selected two illustrations of this type of tower building from a work by L. Pultrich, and G. W. Geyser, Leipzig, 1841. The west end of the Church of Gernrode in the Hartz is guarded by two Romanesque round towers, shown in the preceding page. The apse or circular termination is also repeated at the east end ; there are remains of cloisters, which, if on south side, make the round towers at the west end. In the accompanying view and plan of Des Doms zu Merseburg, the Romanesque round towers are capped with different spires, whilst more windows are also given. The plan shows the round towers, touching but not part of the apse, whilst the square ones at the entrance form an integral part of the building. -jj, 9 ^^ \\ j-^ ij-i) lO \\ r [ nKs DoMs zu MERual for a circular fort to be thus made the centre of a Christian colony, and the missionaries worked amongst no painted savages ; that legend is now relegated to the limbo of modern historic myths, — all nortliern tribes painting their bodies in war time. l'"or two hundred years and more had tliese tribes kept back the Roman legionaries within their own skilfully-planned wall. The Picts were now in a high civilisation, evidenced by war chariots and falchions of keenest temper, as well as exquisite gold ornaments. Their buildings lacked polished masonry, but the Jews were strictly forhiiiilen to erect altars of hewn stone, and this race here, as elsewhere, adapted its eici'tions to the natural supplies of their district. Huts of wood and wattles were no doubt constructed, but so were the circular under-ground houses and many chambered towers or Inn'ghs, sliowing most skilful engineering for shelter or defence. Again, such long IhII earth ramparts as the Cattheruns of the valley of Strathmore, near Brechin, more than onie ballkii Roman and Saxon army. The querns now found in these hill-forts two miles long, and yoo feet higii, in whicii tlie women of the tribe ground oats and hire, tell of sedulous cultivation in the valleys. So it was through Northern and Southern Pictland. Rosemarky, on the northern shores of the Moray Eirth, and Mortlaih, in the vale of the Fiddich, were also Columbian missionary centres, as well as Kildonan, in Sutherlandsiiire. But in the previous centuries missionaries like I'ulladius THE BEGINNINGS OF ABERNETHY AND RESTENNET TOWERS. 19 had proclaimed the Evangel to the extreme north of Aberdeenshire. Here and there, as elsewhere throughout these islands, the Gospel had already penetrated. For Tertullian wrote, about A.D. 210, that though inaccessible to the Roman legions, the Britons knew Christ, perhaps aided by Christians in the Roman legions. In 584 King Brude died, and was succeeded by Gartnaidh, of the nation of the Southern Picts, whose royal seat was at Abernethy, near the junction of the Earn with the Tay. Kincardine, above Brechin, was also a southern capital, while Elgin shared with Inverness the honours of royal residence for the northern nation. Columba now transferred his labours to the southern kingdom, assisted by his friend Cainnech, who was the first founder of the monastery near the Fife Eden, of Kilrimont, or latterly St. Andrews. St Blane, we have already seen, about this time founded the Church of Dunblane. King Gartnaidh, probably instigated by Columba, appears to have rebuilt the Church of Abernethy, founded by an early king, Nectan, who reigned from 457 to 481, rededicating it to St Bridget of Kildare. All this seems to have been directly due to the teaching of Columba amongst " the Tribes of Tir," recalling them to the faith they first professed under Ninian's nission. The situation of Abernethy was unique for the combination of royal residence, college, library, which held valuable lona MSS. for many years, mission colony, and nunnery it became in that early age. The boundaries extended at least a mile north. Part of a Celtic Cross, lately exhumed near Carpow, marked one side of the lands dedicated by the king in his time of pious enthusiasm. But, if lovers of learning, the Picts were not a literary people, and any brief documents left were quickly destroyed by successive invaders. For Abernethy was right in the road up the vale of Strathmore to the north, — so both William the Conqueror and Edward First visited it in their raids. The seal of the college has been preserved, a monument of exquisite Celtic ornament, showing St Bridget gently leading the beasts of the forest under her sway. Thus permeated in its reorganisation by Irish influences, it appears not unlikely that the Round Tower, sole remainder of this former magnificence, should have been designed at this early time. When discussing its architectural peculiarities further on, evidence will be led as to this being a building not finished right off, but patched and amended through the centuries. It is the veriest pedantry to suggest either that the original tower was of wood, or that it is referred to in Bede's oft-quoted message of Nectan III. to Monk- wearmoutli for arcnitects to build him a church after tlie Roman manner. This, as we sliall immediately sec, referred to Restennet. There may be after all a grain of truth in the legend which avers the tower to have been built in a night, and the stones carried from a quarry in the Lomond Hills, six miles off, each stone as quarried being handed from man to man till it became part of tiie tower. The Irish tone of this story may, after all, be confirmation in some kind of its truth. In any case, the first twelve courses of the tower masonry, admitted by all writers to be different from succeed- ing ones, may testify of this first erection. Mr Galletly's picture of Abernethy Tower contrasts markedly with its present-day aspects. It presents no evidence of an adjacent church, though the headstones bfside the arches suggest the tower, and its neighbourhood a burial place of the tribe. The verv slight batter of the tower, which has on the wliole a wavy aspect, demarcates it at once from Ardmore, and others of tlie Irish type. It is also without a top. The modern tower is in part within the church, and has a flight of three stairs up to m >J«i»&kai*'cLjS>fc Mstrs.^,. ., . I' < *:i ; i ! 20 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. its modern doorway. According to the picture, the tower lies below the wavy slopes of the Ochils in a fertile champaign plain, covered here and there with forest growth. But KOUND TOWER, AHKRNETHV, I S(/). the artistic emergencies of presenting all the peculiar windows, door, and other features of this erection had to be weighed when delineating the surrounding scenery. Captain Grose, in his "Scottish Antiquities," gives a detailed view of the surrounding city of a mile's dimension. In this the tower is as at present, with an encircling rampart. On the neighbouring hills, remains of a burgh or Pictish watch tower arc found, as well as the memorials of the prior Roman invaders. From such a coign of vantage as the tower, the fire signal would flash to like alarm posts far up the valley of Strathmore, till the South Picts were up to meet the invader, The suggestion given by the author of "The Old Statistical Account," that from the Round Tower itself worshippers were summoned to meet in the adjacent church by the sound of the horn, which would be heard from that height at a great distance, seems highly probable, for this time was but the infmcy of the manufacture of cathedral bells, The scene now shifts to A.D. 710, to Restennet, on a promontory on one of two lakes called Ncctiinstmre, close to Forfar. Modern agricultural improvement has rendered accessible what was of old an impregnable position, held on the one side by steep hills, defended by duns on their top, and on the other by the lochs. The ruined walls and tower of the priory still testify of its being a considerable place in the early centuries. Immediately before the times of the Reformation, the Monks of Jedburgh — it was a cell of their establishment'^sent their valuables to be kept in safety from border raiders. f! 1 ■ 1 \ Hi m\ I ' i ! in: KKS11':\M:I\ THE BEGINNINGS OF ABERNETHY AND RESTENNET TOWERS. 21 Mr Galletly has been at considerable pains to restore the south doorway of the tower, which is now hid in a mass of tangled shrubbery and brushwood. Here lies the main point of archa:ological interest. The square tower excluding the spire, built at a much later time, shows here many points of analogy to its Irish prototypes. First of all, the doorway is 2 feet 37^ inches wide, and has its head in one piece externally. The jambs sloping, the chamfered sills, and the large single blocks forming the foundations, as well as the sides, all point to building after the more Scotticj.' The arch in the east wall, which is 8 feet 5 inches wide, with its accompanying masonry, has all the architectural characters seen at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow. Here lies the interest. For a century had elapsed since Abernethy had been begun, the chief seat of the kingdom had been shifted to Scone, and a new Nectan had arisen, under whom the Columban clergy had banished his kingdom. Neither stair nor storeys are found inside the tower, and its interior measurements are 10 feet 514 inches by 10 feet 41^ inches, with walls 2 feet 8 inches thick. The imported architects appear to have changed the nave, which, with a semi-circular apse, formed the original church, into the chancel, at the same time piercing the erst solid wall, for the arch also was built in the Northumbrian fashion. The ruined walls are those of the later choir. Besides the tower, below the string course of the spire, the fragment of a return wall, close to the south door, is all that remains of the early church, whose width was about 1 4 feet. Mr Galletly in his notes tells of the masonry being pointed only at the original erection ; that the joints are finer than those in Norman work, having been from a quarter to half-an-inch wide ; also, that the mortar is finer than the usual pea and bean sort found with Norman masonry. As the veneering ashlar stones of the east wall fall out, an internal rubble is disclosed, not grouted, as in modern contract mason work, but carefully built in. This is composed of small stones, commingled with water-worn boulders of from 8 to 10 inches diameter. According to legend, Bonifacius started from Rome, accompanied with Benedictus, Servandus, with other bishops, and two virgins, besides an army of deacons, sub- deacons, and other God-fearing men and women, and let Nectan at Restennet at the head of his army. The King was baptised, adopted the Roman computation of Easter, and soon after dedicated this church to St Peter. He shortly 'after sent letters to Ceolfrid, abbot of Jarrow, requesting architects to build a church after the Roman manner ; hence the additions to the tower, which was at first the memorial of a victory gained over Saxon invaders in the latter half of the fifth century. Nectan abdicated in A.D. 724, to become an ecclesiastic ; he retired either to Restennet or Scone. He may in the end have made up his quarrel with the lona monks, for a broad and elevated terrace near the present ruins of that island indicates a burying ground, called Cill-ma-Neachtan, marking the site of an oratory. Bonifacius died when over eighty years of age at Rosmarky, on the shores of the Moray Firth, after having preached for sixty years to the Picts and Scots. But critics have transferred this legend to Bishop Cuiritan, one of the Irish churchmen conforming to Rome, who crossed from Ireland on this northern mission. HI 'el QUtcN'SUNIVERSirYiruKri^N f 1 ti I CHAPTER V. ST MAGNUS, EGILSEY. A.I). 800-1 137. •ill', IHIS ruined cluirch and attached round tower, the prominent object in a low island about three miles long and a mile wide, stands within an archipelagic circle formed by Pomona, Rousay and Shapinsay, all longer islands. Did the tower, 60 feet high, with its square windows facing the cardinal points of the compass, form a Pharos leading to the church ? If so, it had corresponding lights in the double towers of Deerness, on a Brough in Pomona, which Dr Hibbert found in 1832 razed to the level of the ground, though figured in Low's "Travels" of 1772. The chapel on the Brough of Birsay is associated with the murder of Magnus, as is that of Egilsey, for there the remains of the saint were first interred. All this suffices to make clear that, in 1 1 1 o, the date of this tragedy, many small chapels of the Celtic fashion existed in Orkney, and, indeed, further north in Shetland, where in the isle of Unst alone no fewer than twenty-four such ruins have been identified. Thus, long before the Viking seized the islands, Celtic missionaries coming in their curraghs had found places in them for solitude and evangelising work. In that morning in Lent, nearly eight hundred years since, two fleets filled the bay beyond the church. The good Earl Magnus had brought, as agreed on with Earl Hakon, two long ships manned with picked braves. But in this he was exceeded by his grasping brother wishing to take all his patrimony, with seven or eight ships manned with armed men as if going to battle. Magnus had been warned the night before of this impending treachery by a deserter from Hako's fieet. He spent the night in the chapel committing all his care;, to God, and performing religious rites, asking forgiveness for his enemy eager to grasp that half of the islands which he rightly possessed. Brought out of the church to the shore by four ruffians, he offered his brother to save him from oath-breaking to sail to the Holy Land in two ships ; or to go to Scotland with two companions, never to see the Orkneys again ; or to be maimed, and his eyes put out, and then kept in a dungeon. " I accept the last," said Hakon. "Nay, nay," replied his desperadoes ; "either Hakon or Magnus must now die — both shall not reign in Orkney." The old Saga gives the picture of Magnus praying on the shore, addressing the murderer told off for the crime : " Hew me sharply on the neck ; I have prayed for thee." The date of the erection of this St Magnus Church of Egilsey has been keenly disputed. The story just related has now led several ecclesiologists to connect it with that of Kirkwall Cathedral. But the Saga tells how Magnus spent his last night in a church on the island. Now, in the neighbouring ones of the archipelago small ST MAGNUS, KC.II.SI'Y. 23 churches and oratories abound, of the type, both in size and construction, of those found in the Hebrides and Ireland. Egilsey is out and t)ut built thus more Scottico, and claims an earlier date than the cathedral of the islands. The Northmen overran the islands in 876, and Sir Daniel Wilson supposes that tlie island was so named by them because this church was then erected. Kgilsey, or ICgilshay, is said to come from Gaelic eteglah — a church, and the Norse addition of cy for an island. Sir Henry Dryden's opinion has been recently published. " It seems on the whole fair to suppose Kgilsey to have been built after the traditional Irish form, but with modiHcaiions, and soon after the reconversion of the islands to Christianity in 998. If built before that time, we must refer it to the begin- ning or middle of the ninth century."* The church lies due east and west. The grey and yellow lichened walls have a pretty aspect ; but the masonry of the island stones shows no freestone keys or corners, and is of the simplest kind ; and a pea and bean mortar may be traced in what may be called, in compliment, jointings. The church consists of a nave and chancel, the thick- ness of the walls of which vary from 2 feet 6 in. to 3 feet. The tower is built of thinner stones, and fits into the nave wall, while it is entered, not from the outside, but by a large circular opening some 5 feet high and 2 feet broad, just below where the roof beams abut on the wall. No stair is found within the tower, though holes at different levels of the wall in its interior may have been to receive beams marking off different floors. The nave is internally 29 feet 9 in. by 15 feet 6 in., and the chancel is 15 feet by 9 feet 8 in. Thus both here and at Birsay, as well as some of its neighbours, the length and breadth approaches the Irish rule. The nave gables are cross-stepped, each step being three or four stones high. The arch-headed windows into the nave and chancel are deeply splayed, 9 inches outside, and from 2 feet 3 in. to 2 feet 6 in. within the building. These windows had no external chamfer, the outer edges of the jambs being acute angles, as is the case in early Irish churches. They probably had a frame covereil with parchment. The chancel is on a level with the nave, and is dark but for a small square-headed window at the east end. It has a barrel arch, and above this was a plain chamber, called by the country folks " a grief house " or penitentiary ; but this, as well as chambers in the tower, probably gave accommodation to priests when on duty. For, at the time of Magnus's murder. Bishop Robert was on the island, though he statedly ministered at Birsay. Altogether this primitive edifice may have been first adapted to the building requirements of the situation. Though wood was almost absent then as now in the Orkneys, thin flag-stones form the substrata of the islands. The pictures given supply the lack of further description. Dr Hibbert published an old plate showing tower with a cone-capped roof 60 feet high. Both it and church were roofed with stone-flags. What was the special use of this tower, and its neighbours in Orkney and Shetland ? Certainly they were not bell towers, but may have showed lights to boats out at sea, and been places of protection and temporary abode when Vikings were near. The circular fragment beside the present parish church of Orphir, on Pomona or the Orcadian mainland, formerly called the Gerthouse, had a circular nave and apsidal s\ 'M.icgil)bon and Ross, " Ecclesiastiral Archilcctiiix' ofScoUaml," vol. i. p. 135. 24 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. chancel 7 feet 2 inches wide, and 7 feet 9 inches long, with wall 2 feet 8 inches thick. From the curvature of the two still remaining parts of the nave wall an interior diameter, of about 19 feet is indicated. The stone roof was probably about 15 feet from the floor. A cupola with glazed lantern gave admittance to most of the light. This singular structure was mostly taken down in 1758, to repair the parish edifice of that time. Built of the yellow freestone of the district, this is the smallest example of the circular churches of Britain taken from the type of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The beautiful rotundas at Cambridge and Northampton, as well as the remaining original round part of the Temple Church in London, together with Maplestead and the small Norman chapel in Ludlow Castle, complete the list. Earl Hako (son of Paul L), wli 'se murder of his cousin has just been narrated, had a palace at Orphir. He visited the Holy Land, .-°nt t'lence from Rome by the Holy Father, probably as a penance for his crime. He there bathed twice in Jordan, and brought away relics from Jerusalem, as well as secured the design of the small circular rotunda, to be erected near his palace on returning to Orphir. Earl Paul H. also had his palace at Orphir, opposite which, according to Torfa-us, a temple stood. This unique edifice lies about half-a-mile from the eighth milestone of the road betwixt Kirkwall and Stromness. It may also be seen lying eastward of the Parish Church, going by sea from Scapa to Stromness. These chaplets and anchorite cells, built either singly or in groups beside the chapel, as at the Brough of Deerness, by wandering Chcledei, show the intense longing for solitude, and the belief in the higher spiritual altitude of such a life than the ca'nobitic one. Heathen Icelanders thus heard the evangel. Mayhap that lofty tower, " Which, to this vury hour, St.mds looking seaward," at Newport, Conn., sung of by Longfellow, may have been then built by such wanderers into the Unknown. Viking invaders scattered the mission centres in those northern isles ; but a powerful influence began in central Scotland from such solitary caves on the Fifeshirc coast, or from rude oratories built, say, in such isolated centres as islets on Loch Leven. EGILSEY, SHEWING CHANCEL. CHAPTER VI. ABOUT ABERNETHY AND BRECHIN ROUND TOWERS. A.D. 854-1012. IHAT the erection of Abernethy and Brechin round towers, sole representatives on the Scottish mainland of this peculiar type of Celtic architecture, wao in consequence of the evangelisings of Columba and his followers, represents the limits of our certain knowledge of the period of their building. In the almost complete lack of written evidence of the chronicles of those three hundred years or so following the decease of the saint of lona, the darkest period of Scottish history, conjectural dates founded on imperfect evidence have been hazarded. We have already relegated to Restennet the claim asserted by some for Abernethy, that it was built under the direction of Roman architects sent by Ceolford of Bishopwearmouth, at the request of King Nectan. To both the Scottish towers the remarks of Professor Freeman apply, that they can be compared to nothing in the world but themselves. Nothing in England, and even in Germany, is comparable in height and slenderness with the Irish round towers. Abernethy, no doubt, shows distinct Norman features in its windows ; whilst the octagon capping the summit of Brechin tower is unquestionably a subsequent addition, - . shown both by its design and its distinctive masonry. This is placed by some so late as the sixteenth century. True, Mr Muir, in his "Characteristics of Scottish Chuich Architecture," p. 24, combats Sir Daniel Wilson's position, that these windows of Norman style and size show them to be interpolations. He says : " I may add, that if we are in any case to assume, without cogent reason for so doing, that wmdows, doorways, and other such like detail, with features of determinate character, arc, or may be, insertions of later date than the work in which they are found to exist, it would be easy to make a building of any age we have a fancy for." All very true ; but does not this sentence predicate the conclusion that because a building may show certain definite architectural characters, which are manifestly subordinate to its main plan, it must be of the age alone during which the style to which they belong flourished ? Granted Professor Freeman's assertion, that Irish round towers have a style of their own, what more probable that an architect, coming by way of lona, from the Green Island, then a centre of Christian and artistic influence, should have been designer of both .? How such towers are esteemed by the tribe of professional architects is in evidence by the proposal of an Edinburj^'h one at the close of last century, to pull down Brechin tower so that the stones might be utilised in building the cathedral. This was prevented by the threat of two neighbouring heritors, first to hang said architect from the ancient edifice. Both of the Scottish towers show a general conformity, with specific divergen- cies, from the Irish type. It may reasonably be held, then, that these local peculiarities have to be assigned to difi^erent dates from those of their erection. u 26 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. 1 ' II Both the height and position of the doorway in Abernethy ditfer from some characteristic Irish towers. Thus the height of the doorway of Glendaluagh, Donough- niore, and Kilmacchiagh are 5 feet 7 in., 5 feet 2 in., and 6 feet 10 in., as against 7 feet 10 in. of the door height under discussion. The doorway of Abernethy is about 2 feet 6 in. from the ground within the cemetery, within which is part of the tower. Now the height of Ardmore tower doorway is 20 feet from the ground, and a h'ke great interval persists in the plan of the Irish towers, for such a distance from the ground and the beleaguering foe was a primary feature in their scheme of being places of refuge. The main doorway at Brechin is 10 feet from the surface. But a small doorway close to the ground, now built up, gave entrance to the lower storey, for here, in the after centuries, " the drunks and disorderlies " of the ancient city were kept in due surveillance. The records of the Privy Council of Scotland for 1617, just published, show a warrant for the conveyance to Edinburgh of a prisoner charged with murder, then confined " in the lower part of the steeple of Abernethy." This, with the jougs still displayed outside this erection, show how both towers were used for civil, uses. These at least were alterations from the original design, even if that were, as evidenced by the finding of skeletons at the basements of both, below the abode of the prisoners, a monument to a prince or king. This feature has likewise been discovered in several Irish towers. The top windows of Abernethy, one of which is depicted in the accompanying plate of details, and which is 7 feet i in. high, differ from those of Ardmore, which have triangular heads, and are 3 feet 10 in. by i foot 3 in. No doubt the intermediate windows, generally square, on alternate ridges from 2 feet 10 in. to 11 in., exactly parallel those of Ireland. In both the Scottish towers the spectator from the summit looks down into a deep well, with narrow peepholes barely illuminating the darkness. Abernethy and Brechin differ much in external aspect. The latter has all the symmetry of the Irish towers. There is fully a difference of 2 feet 6 in. between diameter at top and bottom — a proportion more than borne out in the towers at Ardmore, Cloyne, and Kilkenny. The triangular-headed windows, 3 feet high, are, too, in conformity with Irish examples. But Abernethy tower has a very wavy appear- ance, specially from the north. The diameter at doorway is 8 feet 2 in, while that at windows is 8 feet, and at top 8 feet 7 in. ; while the cope at the top of the tower is 2 feet 10 in., making the diameter there to extend to 13 feet 6 in. There appears thus a batter of a quarter of an inch. The breadth of the wall at the door entrance is 3 feet 4 in., while where the windows appear on it, a distance of 56 feet 6 in., it narrows to 2 feet 9 in. Though the octagon at Brechin is admittedly a modern addition, it preserves the ancient capping of the tower after the usual model of the Irish ones. ••\bernethy shows a castellated top in common with Kildare, Cloyne, and Kilrea towers, which are said to have got such a peculiarity owing to their restoration in mediitval times. Both the Scottish towers command an elevation of fully one hundred feet. Aber- nethy, though only seventy-two feet high from the roadway, has besides a natural position of forty feet or so above the plains of the Earn and Tay. From both signals, by fire or horn, could go from one end to the other of the Southern Pictish kingdom. In the internal arrangement of each there is a close parallelism. The following section of the elevation of Brechin tower shows its division into six storeys, by intakes from the interior. It'i ABOUT ABERNETHY AND BRECHIN ROUND TOWERS. 27 Abemethy is also divide! into six internal courses, averaging 12 feet high, none approaching the 18 feet 6 in. of the sixth Brechin story. Allowing for the natural advantages of the size in regard to height, does not this indicate similarity in plan ? Uii |i > i SECTIONAL ELEVATION, BRECHIN ROUND TOWER. According to internal measurements the height is 90 feet 6 in. to the octagon spire, of seventeen corners of sloping masonry, which is a little more than 12 feet high, though Mr Black gives its height at 18 feet 9 in., with 12 in. for spirals. The walls at the level of the doorway are 3 feet 8 in. thick, while the north and south internal diameter of the tower is 7 feet 11 in. ; and the east and west is 8 feet 1 inch. At the place of insertion of the windows of the tower proper its diameter within 2 feet 6 in. walls is from north to south 7 feet 8 in., and from east to west 7 feet 10 in. ; while in the octagon itself the north to south diameter is 8 feet, and east to west 7 feet 10 in., with walls 2 feet 5 in. The jointing is carefully brought out in the sketch of the tower. Attention is specially called to the character surrounding the doorway, and likewise to the carefully- dressed stones surrounding the square window below the octagon. Portions of the conglomerate, the characteristic stone of this district, not so roughly tooled as at Abernethy, but apparently taken from what quarrymen call a ready bed, go to make the exterior masonry. The masonry of its interior shows rough stones, with ragged joints 2 feet 6 in. long, and from 15 to 17 in. high. Mr Brash, architect, Cork, who has made a minute study of Irish towers, finds the one at Clondalkin, county Dublin, coincides with Brechin in height, thickness of wall 28 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. at various points and diameter, and other minute details.* So, too, does the tower at TuUoherin, county of Kilkenny, In the accompanying plate of details, restorations of Abernethy and Brechin door- ways, as well as the north window of first tower, with enclosing masonry to scale, are given. The figures sculptured on the Brechin doorway, specially the top one, representing^ according to all the combatants, the crucifixion of the Redeemer, have awakened sharp discussion. Attention has been called to the fact that there is no representation of the cruel tree, but the whole doorway is so much decayed that this, if originally behind the figure, may have been obliterated by the ravages of time. Again, the legs are not crossed, though this is done in a similar rude sculpture on the top of the doorway of Donoughmore Tower, county Meath ; whilst the rude cross on the top of Antrim Doorway, the other representation of such sculpture in Ireland, is left in low relief, not quite half an inch, by sinking the centre of the stone all round, though no human figure is there represented. On the left jamb, the figure in relief, much worn, is that of an ecclesiastic with the crooked pastoral staff peculiar to the early Celtic Church ; and, on the right jamb, another ecclesiastic, leaning on a cross-headed or tau-staff, bears a book on his breast. Two crouching beasts are on either side of the jambs — '~ne a winged griffin, and the other a nondescript, like animals found carved on such early memorial stones in the Brechin district. Indeed, at St Vigcans, Eassie, ecclesiastics with like staffs to one represented on the jambs, are sculptured on such stones. Then, a pellet border, similar to that surrounding the doorway, is found round a stone at lona with sculpturings of a Scripture subject. Such peculiarities have raised the question if after all this doorway is not like the octagon, a late insertion on Brechin Tower, the evidence for this heightened by the unique masonry of the jambs. This also holds regarding Abernethy doorway. To revert to the evidence of historic records, we must be content with general conclusions as to the time of erection of those stone records of Celtic architecture. It was a period of contention for national existence, whether as Picts or Dalriads, and latterly of the separate Scottish nation, known at the time as Alban. So eacli successive invader scrupulously destroyed any documents bearing on hs claims for the supremacy ; and thus, in what was at the best an illiterate time, perished all trustworthy guides as to exact dates. Then the contentions betwixt Picts and Dalriads successively restricted or enlarged the infiuence of lona on the mainland. When the Picts prevailed, the Culdees became Pictish court tavourities. Recent research seems to draw a line betwixt the Cheledei and the lona missionaries, who, three centuries or so from Columba's death, disappear from the historic horizon. The Culdees, originally Irish authorities, crossed to Alban to live in cells, often by the sea- shore. The community at Loclileven, founded about this time, lived as anchorites after this fashion. This was subsequently modified into a community of families of thirteen, both of which took root at Abernethy and Brechin, to be increased in succeeding centuries by grants of great territories, which became a bone of contention betwixt them and the ascendant Romish monks, and eventually leading to their extinction. But from lona came the impulse towards building the Scottish Round Towers. For the ' rroiiudings of Scic. of Ant, Scolhiiid, vol. iv. p. igi. ABOUT ABERNETHY AND BRECHIN ROUND TOWERS. 29 community there had never forgot their founder's conjunction of prayer and labour. Some of their abbots, like Ciline Droichteach, anchorite and bridge builder, A.D. 726-752, distinguished themselves equally as engineers and ecclesiastics. Then the rich golden carved shrine, containing the relics of their founder, were emblems of the high artistic skill of that early time, now beginning to be appreciated by historians. But the cruel Danes, the Vikings, envied this rich treasure ; and so, repeated rai;ings of the island buildings, with accompanying massacres. No doubt the Columban family, under such surroundings, transferred most of its influence to Kells, in Ireland ; but the old island home still became the scene of repeated rcbuildings now in stone. The Viking ravages extended throughout Ireland, and in consequence crowds of clerics and laity fled to the safer shores of the northern kingdom. Thus Cellach, son of Aillel, abbot of Kildare, became abbot of lona in A.D. 854, ten years after Kenneth Macalpine, a royal Scot by a Pictish mother, had seized the Scottish throne, making one of the two kingdoms. He died in A.D. 865, not at lona, but in the territory of the Picts. Kildare, like Abernethy, was dedicated to St Bridget ; the church there had been burned by the Danes A.D. 836-845, and its vice-abbot slain by the marauders. What more probable then, as Mr Skene suggests, than that this abbot of lona should have died at Abernethy on his way to Rome ? * Here, too, under the reign of Kenneth Macalpine, the bishopric had been tra:isferred from Dunkeld. Is it not likely that at this time the round tower was completed by those Irish clergy ? The round tower at Kildare had been built a century before ; and it too, like Abernethy, has a castellated top, but both, it is said, owe this to renovations. Three bishops were consecrated shortly afterwards in the church, but in those early Columban times a bishop, like John Wesley, had a diocese at large. King Kenneth succeeded Cuilean in A.D. 976 ; and during his reign much was done to promote that fusion of the Scottish and Pictish peoples, which had been slowly eventuating after the fishion of such national movements. Thus, multitudes of Scots emigrated to form mixed communities on that great northern highway leading by the north-east to Aberdeen, and regions beyond, trodden in the preceding ages by Roman and other invaders. The king himself often visited Kincardine, the northern palace of the Southern Picts, now in ruins. Indeed, he is said to have been lured by Lady Finella, when journeying thence to Brechin, into the boudoir of her castle, there to meet his death in the embrace of a beautiful automaton studded with sharp knives. The tragedy owed its inception, it was said, to the rough measures the king adopted in furthering the fusion of the two nations. As Abernethy, though originally founded in the sixth century, revived under the Scoto-Hibernian clergy under Kenneth Macalpine, so the same influences came to bear on Brechin under Kenneth II. Mogrum was coarb of Columcille, both in Erin and Alban, so there was free intercourse between the Scotch and Irish Churches. The round tower was probably built betwixt A.D. 970-995, at the same time with the church. The new lona missionaries found a nucleus of the old monastery side by side with a Culdee college ; both had probably begun in the sixth century. The Danes from Ireland v, re powerful factors in contemporary history. They had invaded northern England, and Alban stood in dread of sucli visits. Indeed, if the story of * "Ccltii: Scotland," vol, i. p. 302. II 3° ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. ■..ft); ■.'<>■ Hector Boece, written A.D. 1012, be a romance, how the Danes had burned down the city of Brechin and its great church, all except the tower built after the best art, it indicates the purport of liie builders of this structure. For centuries after both towers held their place in history. In 1072 William the Conqueror stayed his march at Abernethy in conference with Malcolm Canmore. The old Culdees of the college were long the custodians of " Beearmen," or sacred banner of Columba, and for a time, till they relinquished the trust to Lochleven and St Andrews, of the valuable illuminated MSS., removed from lona because of the Danish ravagers. Great properties gradually came into the company from pious donors. William the Linn, about 1177, gave a large portion of these lands to the abbey of Arbroath, just founded. And so began the outsiders' appropriation of such gifts, till in the succeeding centuries, 1273, the Cheledei were politely merged into Canons regular. Notwithstanding, in 1476, Earl Angus, Lord of Abernethy, conferred a Charter of Privileges on the town, constituting a civic council. The birth of John Brown, herd boy at Carpow, on the hills above the town, in 1720, afterwards author of " The Self-interpreting Bible," and founder of the United Secession Presbyterian Church, is the last connection of the district with Scottish national education. The small church beside the tower was taken down in 1802. Repeated attempts have been essayed by townsmen to turn the tower more to secular uses other than a mere clock tower. Uiider Brechin Tower, Wallace, Bruce, and Edward I. have stood when attempt- ing to gain the castle. Many listened to John Knox in the neighbouring cathedral. So of the past, — but what future heroes may yet pass under its shadow ! ^(;l•.\KI IllWIK, IIID.AI.K, SdKKSlllKl If.i CHAPTER VII. H I. THE TOWERS AT DUNNING, MUTHILL, AND MARKINCH. |LL these quaint erections mark the site of Culdee settlements, and may be studied without regard to the church buildings with which they are now connected, for those at Dunning and Markinch are of modern date, especially the ugly spire of the latter, disregarded by our draughtsmen, and which hales about ninety years ago. Muthill stands beside a ruin associated with Dunblane, the abbot of which at first had his palace here, and whose Abbey possessed a similar tower, since overcapped with Norman additions. They have many of the characteristic features of the round tower, such as the small square openings here and there throughout their length, while both Markinch and Muthill were entered by small doors above the ground level, and their builders apparently purposed places of defence, rather than campaniles to a neighbouring church. Indeed, the adjustments of both Muthill and Dunblane towers show them originally independent of the church buildings. At Dunning and Markinch the towers have been in great part rebuilt, but they, too, may have followed a like plan, and have been built even before the twelfth century, when all the connecting erections were erected. Dunning, near which St Servanus had a cell ; Muthill was long the Moothill of judgment for neighbouring Celtic tribes ; whilst Markinch, surrounded by the ruins of neighbouring castles, situated on a pro- montory, had in early times an intimate connection with the Culdees of Lochleven, though afterwards given up to the Archbishop at St Andrews. If, as Ebrard puts it, the Culdee settlements had a stone church in the centre, these towers may at first have tilled that function, stories being added as time rolled on, though no inner divisions are found in any of them ; but string courses at varied heights, represented in the drawings, divide the upward taper of the towers. Muthill probably preserves the type of the original plan of all, in crow steps, with a saddle-backed roof. They approximate in height ; thus Dunning is about 75 feet from ground to ridge of roof ; Muthill is 66 feet 9 in. to the top of the crow steps, and from the ground is 68 feet. The plan of them all is nearly square, witli slight divergencies. On the ground plan of Muthill Tower the lengths are 15 feet 1 in. north to south, and 15 feet 3 inches east to west, the walls are 3 feet thick, so that the interior measures diminish from 8 feet 10 in. and 8 feet 9 in. north to south, to 8 feet 6 in. east to west. But just at the string course below the sills of the upper windows the outer measurement diminishes to 14 feet i in., with walls 2 feet 6 in., the internal square shows a twist, at the south sill 8 feet 1 1 in., at the north 8 feet 9 in., wiiitl) also holds from east to west. At Dunning, the internal dimensions at top and bottom continue the same, though the walls change from 3 feet 6 in. to 2 feet 7 Indies in thickness. Again, at Markinch, with lower walls, the inner dimensions arc 10 feet 6 in., but they agree with tiiis at top, north to south ; and 1 1 feet i in., east 32 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. S;t. ■' ) to west ; but here the battlement is a foot over the walls, above the vaulted roof to carry the spire. Restennet has a like internal diameter. Characteristic rounded Norman windows, above the highest string course, divided by a shaft, distinguish those towers. They usually have small surrounding square holes. At Dunning the centre shaft is much worn. The height up to the square of the round edge is 5 feet, and the breadth at sill is 2 feet 9 in. Muthill has two circular, the north- east and western windows. The north window exhibits a slope from 3 ft. 6 in. to 3 feet 41^ in. in a distance of seven feet, after the Irish fashion, The great difference betwixt this and the west window is still unexplained. It is a square one, 4 feet i yi in. high, and an outside breadth of 20 inches, with a graded batter of 2 inches between inner and outer walls ; while the south window has a square lintel, 3 feet 8»^ in. wide by 4 feet I in. high, with a dividing muUion close with the wall. In the Dunblane Tower, afterwards added to with the growth of the Cathedral, the central pillar of the circular north window is highly ornstmcntal, and the size approaching 6 feet to spring of arch. The orientation of this tower differs from that of the subsequently built Cathedral. The views given in the photo-lithographs are, one of Dunning Tower from the north-west, with accessaries surrounding the doorway, part of the ancient church removed ; Muthill from the north-west, showing the two circular-headed windows ; the view in the accompanying tailpiece displays the square, west, cast, and south windows. Markinch is depicted from the W.N.W. in early times, with inhabitants clothed in the costumes of the period, though the spire and also all of the church above the full Norman string course were of very late erection. km MUIHII.L FROM rilK. SOU ni-KAM'. CHAPTER VIII. ST RULE'S TOWER. ITRANGERS visit St Andrews because of its numerous towers and spires, which gave it an air of vast magnificence in Defoe's time. But these ruined heaps are now surveyed by tourists delighted with the sights of the Royal Golf Course, or the general amenities of the ancient city transmogrified into a fashionable watering place, and the question is not asked if the state of its nore ancient monuments has been caused by a bombardment or an earthquake. The great Tower of St Regulus and its adjoining very small church awakens memories of the earliest times, before the great tragedies of Scottish history became associated with the surrounding ruins. We, standing on the sea-clifF eastward of the castle, and beneath which " The long waves of ocean beat Below the minster grey, Caverns and chapels worn of saintly feet, /.nd knees of them that pray," observe below all that decay has left of the ocean cave of St Rule, with its outer and inner chamber, and altar hewn out of the sandstone cliff. Similar in plan to the towers of Brechin, Monasterboice and KilJare, but only with a square instead of a circular girth, St Regulus strikes by its majestic appearance the traveller for miles around, whether by land or sea. It is fully 109 feet high, and differs from the towers just described in Chapter VII. in having only two stringcourses, besides having a more graceful and almost uniform look. As shown in the plans at top and bottom, given in a separate sheet of details, its popular name of the " Four-nooked Steeple " truly describes it. The ground length of this steeple is 17 feet 6 in., and that of the chancel externally is 3 1 feet 7 in. It is 26 feet i in. inside measurement. The enduring quality of the ashlar stones of church and steeple, as well as a government curatorship of some centuries, account for the perfect masonry as compared with that of the neighbour- ing cathedral ruins. But as to the date of its erection we are met with a confused testimony, coming from legend, historic document, and marks and character of masonry. Bishop RnbtTt, Prior of Scone A.D. 1 127 and 1 144, has the credit of building this edifice, in the icign of David I. Freeman* sajs it was then "rebuilt in a form savour- ing even less of foreign fashions than the buildings of an earlier generation at Lincoln. The small church steeple, ruined as it is, and tar more perfect than the greater pile which grew up to overshadow it, is primitive in all its features. It still stands by the rocks of the northern ocean, the one perfect portion of that vast group of buildings, church. *"Normnn Conquest," vol. v. p. 637. I "I 34 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. 1 '4: -•( : i'( I monastery, and episcopal castle, standing in all the simplicity of earlier days, as if to rebuke the worldly pomp of one age and the merciless havoc of another." But the question at once confronts us. Does the present tower and church represent all the original building of Bishop Robert, or only a portion of it ? If it was erected after the first fashion, then it conforms to Wearmouth and Barton-upon-Humber ; if after the latter, to that of Jarrow Church. A similarity in profile and plan of churches and towers with those of St Regulus prevails in those early Anglo-Saxon examples. So, too, the Tower of Cormac's Chapel at Cashel may be compared with that of the North Sea. Various pieces of evidence have been brought forward to prove that the present ruins of St Regulus differ from those of the original buildings. Just beyond the eastern doorway of the Chapel, figured in our sheet of drawings, is a tombstone which is also indicated, and is about 19 feet 9 inches from the entrance ; when digging here twelve years since, the foundation walls of an apse were disclosed. In Professor Brown's remarks on Mr Martin's " Tract on the History and Antiquities of St Rule's Chapel,"* he says that the foundation of the walls still remained in 1786. Further, Mr Hall, the Government officer then in charge of the works, informed Mr Galletly, in July 1886, that traces of foundations of a chamber or enclosure of some kind, though narrower than the tower itself, extend westward from its west wall. But the main stress of evidence for St Rule's being a central tower of an ecclesiastical building is found in the picture of the Seal of the Chapter, where the tower is given with a conical cap and cross a-top ; three large windows, one on top of the other, with a short wall interspaced, diversify the south side, the lower half of which is hidden by a building higher and longer than the chancel, but terminated by a western turret, with two square-topped oblong windows. The circumspection of this oval seal is Sigillum Kcclcs'he Siincti Andrcte Apostoli in Sotne, with the obverse, St Andrew of Crete, the apostle tin a cross. Now, what is the v.ilue of this testimony ? Was this now lost addition a nave ? Did the seal engraver make his pattern from actuiil inspection, or from the (h'aughts by others, which might only represent what was to be ? We all know the gooil part of the photographer, in curbing the imagination of the landscape painter in his representa- tions of architecture ; yet the oldest chapter seal attached to a charter, A.I). I 160, sliows central and west towers, nave, and chancel. (• But what of the apse, unrepresented in those early muniments? In a bird's-eye view of the town, published in l5,;o, no western building as depicted is represented. Besides, are the projections on the west end buttresses, or part of this lost nave ? And were tlie olil grooves on the west tower wall roof markings ? Might these last have been only used to keep rain channels, so as to preserve the carving of the archway underneath ? If the nave depicted existed, it must not only have l)een higher and broader than the chancel, where are the marks of broader toundatioiis ? narrower, wc have seen to be the verdict of past experience, 'riie ciiancel and tower are one so far as tlieir masonry goes ; tlie roof corbels of the one, as well as the ashlar work, extend uninterrupted across the tower. What of the additional licigbt of the piece shown in the seal of the nave ? Turther, the masonry of the west siiie of the tower, Mr Galletly says, is inferior in regard to jointing i>f the courses ; they form a vertical " raist-band" line in certain places. The piercing of the arcli seems to * " liil)liolli('i"i Topo^^nipliira Iliilaiiliica," No. Nivii. 1.iimc1i>ii, i;S;, |- Wilson's "Sioltisli ArclKL'olony," p. 613. TOWKR OF ST RK(iULUS. ST AXDRKWS. M\ TOP OF ST RKCUl.US. AnjOININO RUINS OK CATHEDRAI.. Ul'l'KR rORUKL HRACKKT Al' lIRSr ROW. '''■^'^^'^W',;v/^,7«r^;7;/,WAW//^ CORUKI, BRACKKT OI' SECOND ROW. fl SOUIH. I'l.AN AT TOI'. i '• 1 ../v.. , 2' 2 * , i c oV ■ 1 1 .\S1I1,AR WORK, ST RKOUl.US. CKOUNl) I'l.AN, HI' RKdll.LS. i;.\Sl' lll.VNCI.I, DOOR, ST RULE'S TOWER. w have altered the equilibrium of the tower ; hence the buttresses for support. Professor Brown, whose paper is the best description of St Rule published, thinks the Culdees may have erected such a western hall, which would probably be about 15 feet high, but unroofed, for penitents and pilgrims in the first stages of their penance. If, then, we cannot be sure of a western nave, many ingenious speculations as to date of erection fall aside, notably that suggested by P. Macgregor Chalmers : — " The two dates I suggest are, the period between 1028-1055, with Bishop Maelduin the builder of the nave added to the west of the tower, and the years between 970 and 995, with Bishop Cellach the builder of the tower and church which still exist." * Though thus taking " uncertain date " for a motto, we resume the thread of Scottish church history left off at Brechin Tower barely. Proceeding from the known date of the erection of the Cathedral, some eighteen years after the supposed erection of his basilica of Bishop Robert, we are met with the question. Why St Andrew displaced St Peter as national patron saint ? And we are carried down to the middle of the sixth century in our quest. The g'-eat height of the tower, with the snail size of the adjacent chancel, conveys the idea of a Celtic architect, not of extreme economy to give dignity with slender mtans on the part of the founder of Canons Regular of St Andrews. Turgot, the biographer ^f Queen Margaret, and much concerned with the building of Durham Cathedral, had already occupied the Archbishop's chair ; which, indeed, li 1 been inaugurated by Cellach, first Bishop of Alban, in A.D. 908. Cainich or Kenneth, ih? companion of Columba on his missionary visit to the Royal Pictish Dun near Inverness, who died A.D. 600, founded a desert cell at Kilrymont, which may mean St Andrews, or the surrounding district, specially Kennoway. But ecclesiastical strife, which has characterised the ancient city for so many centuries, was to be a main factor in its foundation. Bede records that the Pictish King had no veneration for St Andrew, having put St Peter as national patron saint in 710; but meanwhile tlic tTst banished followers of Columba planned and schemed to regain their lost ground. This came about through the influence of their representatives at Lindisfarne, the Northumbrian colony, founded in A.D. 634. When the Columban party were defeated, in A.D. 664, at the Council at Whitby, by Wilfrid, who had been as a student to Rome, he was made Bishop of York, and his cure extended over Northumbria, then stretching to the shorcS' of the Forth, and likewise into the kingdom of the Picts, on the Fife side of that river. In A.D. 685, when the Northumbrian King was defeated at Dunnichen, in Forfarshire, among the fugitives was the most revered man of God, Truniwin, Bishop of Abercorn, near Dalmeny, on the south side of the Forth, then in the country of the Angles, but who seems to have ventured so far north in his diocese. The church at Hexham, founded by Wilfrid in 674, was decorated with precious relics of St Andrew, as tlie saint had been propitious to its founder, who, for like motives, erected simultaneously chapels to St Michael and St Mary. Now Acca, who was living when Bede wrote his history, succeeded Wilfrid, who died in A.D. 719. On the deposition and flight of the former from Ilexliam, he fled north in A.D. 736, taking the tlien ferry for NorthumlMians, from Oulancness to Ncwburn, Earlsferry, and brought the precious relics of St Andrew, lie was welcomed by the Pictish king. * St NiiiiiiM's " CanUiila (."hmi," p. « 1. •«})?sess!f 36 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. ;t at that time at war with the Angles, to the now ancient city of the name ; in evidence, the church at GuUane is dedicated to St Andrew. Acca died four years afterwards, having returned to Hexham in the interval. Here comes in the legend of St Regulus ; in the one version a vision directs him to carry the precious relics from Patras in Greece, to the King's Mount, Rigmund, on the eastern shore. Another is that Angus or Hungus, king of the Picts, was at war with the Saxon king in East Lothian ; when, through a bright light a voice is heard, " Ungus, Ungus, hear me, an apostle of Christ called Andrew, who am sent to defend and guard you ; " obedience and victory followed as concomitants. Angus, son of Fergus, founded St Andrews in A.D. 736. St Regulus was probably a contemporary of Columba, coming from an island in Lochderg, Southern Ireland ; or on the other hand, Acca may have brought the bones of St Andrew, and the legend of St Rule from France. Be this as it may, there appears to have been another ecclesiastical movement on the fusion of the Scottish and Pictish kingdoms under Kenneth M'Alpin, told in the story of a band of 6,606 confessors, clergy and people settling on the Isle of May, at the entrance of the Firth of Forth ; spreading along the shores and inland ; to be massacred by the Danes in 875. Critics resolve this into an incursion of Irish clergy, mainly from Kildare, eager to assume the ecclesiastical position from which they were dispossessed, when driven from Abernethy by Nectan. Adrian their leader is designated by some as the first bishop of St Andrews. Chapels in St Andrews were also added in honour of Saints Brigid and Muren of Kildare. The Church of St Monans was dedicated to the companion of Adrian ; and that of Leuchars bears the name of St Athernase, an Irish saint. For the next four centuries there were sharp contests for precedence betwixt the Cheledei and Canonical parties ; not without weighty interests involved. For the parochia of St Regulus included a considerable slice of the East Neuk cut off at Largo, including nineteen modern parishes. At length a time came when the Cheledei " celebrated their office after a peculiar use in a corner of the church, which was small enough. Mass was only said at St Andrew's altar at the coming of a king or bishop." Now, if we accept the authority of Boethius, the venerable " Church of St Rule," as it was formerly called, was latterly known as "the old Church of St Andrew."* On the flat ground slightly sloping to the sea, and all round St Rule's Tower, stood the Culdee houses ; but higher up the hill also was the Chapel-Royal of Kirkheugh, the ruins of whose chancel, transepts, and nave, up to the ground level, were disclosed when digging the foundations for a battery in i860. It appears to have had a central tower. If this church of St Mary on the rock or the Kirkheugh was that founded by Acca after the order of Hexham, then we need not assign to it the place of the original St Regulus. It seems to have been the centre of much administrative power with lands and chattels over a considerable area by the provost, whose house was said to have been standing in 1683. Indeed, when Con- stantine the Third, who died in 943, renounced the Crown for a Canonry of this Collegiate Church, he entered a rich foundation. The seal of the chapter, frequently attached by the provost to early deeds, showed the blessed Virgin carrying the holy Babe, sitting in a richly draped portico, with a man worshipping on each hand of the image in a small section on each side, with this circumscription — S. capituli ecclcsiii- Saiicte Maria capclla Jomiiii regis Scotorum. On the obverse, was a crowned king in a Iil>. VI. p. 105. ST RULES TOWER. 37 close antique mantle, with a sword in his right hand and a globe in his left, but surrounded with the same legend. Now, the co-existence of such diverse seals as that of the Canons Regular of St Andrew's Priory and this of Kirkheugh, shows a fierce competition by either corporation for several centuries. Both were powerful. The opponents, with whom Bishop Robert " could not associate for fear of disunion," received the title for their church of Chapel Royal — Capella Regia — in the middle of the thirteenth century, keeping it till the close of the fifteenth century, when the title and honour were transferred to Restalrig. For about that time the Reformation Presbytery of St Andrews resolved and declared that " the Lady College Kirk upon the Hauch was ane prophane house, and sa to be haldyn in time caming." The provosts had occupied the highest places of the Scottish State, such as that of Lord Chancellor ; likewise repeatedly visiting Rome, trying to gain the Pope's sanction that the ancient Culdees should vote in the election of the Bishop of the See with the new Canons Regular. Bishop Robert was buried in " the Old Church " ; so, in later times, was Robert Chambers ; while the surrounding ground holds the remains of S. Rutherford, Halyburton, and others. St Regulus cemetery gradually filled with the remains of individuals of the new Romish fraternities. But the two corporations had barely clashed swords when the erecting of the adjoining Cathedral and other buildings made a stir in the medixval city. Collections were made for it throughout Europe, while a canon, as master of works, superintended brother canons toiling as masons, joiners, and other branches of handicraft needed in erecting the great fane. What wonder if amidst all this industry a young canon, skilled in draughtsmanship, should have designed the seal of his corporation, putting in as decided improvements, to be realised in the future, the great central windows of pointed archi- tecture in the south side of the tower ? Seals of the Priory are attached to documents of 1 25 1 and 1450, displaying the west chapel ; besides that already quoted from Sir Daniel Wilson as attached to a charter A.D. 1 160, just in the period of great building activity. And the same authority describes the seal of Inchcolm, in the Forth, resembling that of St Andrews, with a nave, central tower surmounted by a spire, and choir. The St Andrews monkish architects, taking advantage of St Rule's, ready to hand, did not erect the usual central tower. But at their settlement of Kirkheugh, just outside the walls of the cemetery, the Culdees appear to have added this to their small chapel, the ruins of which were discovered in i860, in digging the foundations for a battery. This was probably re-erected from a first site just outside the harbour, now covered by the encroaching German Ocean.* Here, too, in i860, numerous skeletons were discovered of faithful Cheledei who had elected to lie among their own people ; as, also, sculptured crosses, now displayed at other parts of the city. If the first chapel on the Lady Craig was the original one of St Mary founded by Acca, the probabilities lie in the direction of St Regulus being built by the Culdees at an earlier date than the later erection of Kirkheugh, which had several imitations in the successively transferred Collegiate Chapels Royal to Restalrig and Stirling. Turgot brought English architectural notions, such as the primitive type of towers at St Michael's at Oxford, or at Bracehridge, during his short tenure of the See ; and there was continued intercourse with Rome and the Continent, bringing, perhaps, plans for ii I * " Proceedings of the Society of Antiiiuaries of Scotland," vol. iv., p. 7O, K ' ^ >:*i'i>*'*mu^-mMkj^.^^. 39 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. the chancel and west side jamb pillars. Besides, it is recorded that so lately as A.D. 781 the Exchequer granted £in for repairs in the tower ; and this Government super- vision continues. At the date quoted a staircase was built up to four feet of the top of the tower. But whether the ancient internal planning was after the fashion of the round towers is a moot point. Mr Galletly, in his minute survey, found in the walls intakes three courses of stone below the small round window in the west side, and partly into the course above it ; there are no windows on the north side. An entrance to a prophet's chamber might have been got by a window just below the roof marks of the chancel. But this is a partial solution of mystery ; just as the irregular coursing of the ashlar beds around the horse-shoe arch of the west side appears to indicate a subse- quent insertion stopped by threatened downcome. A practical difficulty as to the roofing. The narrow chancel, 30 feet broad by 26 feet i in. long, and side walls 29 feet 7 in. high, — the apex of the high pointed roof was 55 feet 5 in. from the ground ! How reconcile this slope of roof, as high as the surrounding walls, on a breadth of only 20 feet ? After all, has another interpretation to be found for the so-called roof marks on east and west walls f What if, in accordance with probability, besides the unglazed, small, but deeply splayed windows of the chancel, pitched high in the wall to prevent the suffering of the ministrants from cold east winds, it had also a canvas or timber roof ? St Regulus, if early built, may have had constant additions, till, because of the rise of the Cathedral early in the twelfth century, most of it early became a ruin. The tower itself would serve as a place of defence and lighthouse to mariners on the surrounding treacherous coast for long centuries before the Bell Rock Turret indicated the scene of the tragedy of Ralph the Rover. The second row of tower corbels are the same as those lower ones supporting the one string course of chapel and tower lower down. The centre plate in the sheet of details is the south window in plan and elevation ; that on its right is the west window ; while that to the left is the north window. In the centre figure the columns and capitals are of one stone, and groovings may be seen for Venetians or Louvres. In the other two windows only the central columns are of a single stone. The tail-piece, taken from a pencilling in Mr Galletly's continental note-books, shows an unglazed window common in Romanesque towers. TOWER WINDOW AT COBLENTZ. l.KUCIIARS. TORrHICHKN. lOdll.SKV. I'l'IIAI.L. SI ANHKi.us, i'i:i-.i!i.i.>. M ANDKl.U S, I'Kl.lll.l.S. I 1,. in ff ■ W u c/; c CHAPTER IX. ON CHANCEL ARCHES. i: IHUS far then have we found at Kirkheugh, chancel, nave, transepts, with central tower indicated in the ruins of a small church. This plan holds good in the majority of Scottish churches, with the variation of a western tower in some cases. In the accompanying sheet, Uphall Church, near Edinburgh, is an example of the latter ; the tower, with its chaste Norman doorway, is the burial place of the Earls of Buchan : whilst the quaint one-storied aisle serves a like office for the Shairp family. Torphichen, three miles off, and long the place of worship of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, is, as at present, an example of Transition architecture. Only the choir remains, with an ornate chancel arch, whilst part of the tower had been latterly used as a residence. The tower of the old Church of St Andrew at Peebles, restored in the style of Muthill and Dunning by the munificence of the late William Ch.4mbers, near which that pioneer of this era of cheap literature is buried, has beside it a remnant of the old church, the wall of which contains a doorway indicated by our photographer. This remnant stands at a right angle of 8 feet north of the tower, and is 34 feet in length. St Andrew's dates from at least A.D. 1 195. The accompanying plate of the Kirk of Stobo, a few miles further up the Tweed, shows the characteristic Roman- esque Tower, with part of the nave. As Mr Galletly's design of the drawing was to show the unique Norman door, removing the present porch for better inspection of this architectural gem, the chancel is not shown. The view ot Leuchars apse and chancel, with its ugly modern spire, given in the sheet of examples, shows, like Dalmeny, the high ornamentation of the thirteenth century. And, for the sake of the general reader, it may be as well now to illustrate Dalmeny chancel arch, extending just from beyond the pulpit. The space betwixt this and the apse arch has its grotesque heads and chevron mouldings sadly disfigured by the rude furniture of modern ecclesiastical taste. The symbolism of the carvings, one of which is seen just in front of the apse arch, as well as on the doorway, will be treated further on. From Mr Galletly's external view of the church may be noted, the relative proportions of apse, chancel, and nave. Indications of an intended tower, — indeed, part of its side walls have been built, — are found at the west end of the nave. This plate is a faithful copy of the unfinished drawing, with windows not filled in. Egilscy, see sheet of examples, shows chancel and nave ; and like structures cited both by the late Mr Muir and Sir Henry Dryden, show it not to be singular in this respect. Ancient Celtic churches, first eremitic oratories, then narrow oblong chambers with unglazed windows, had small additions, usually from seven to twelve feet long or so, added to them. Then buildings with such chambers expressly planned began to be built alike in the Western Isles, and the Orkneys and Shetland. Now how was this ? iHH&n^iiSimi^famam^ 40 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. Were the Celtic missionaries influenced by the desire of making their little edifices counterparts of the Romanesque Basilica ? Or have architects wrongly applied, for convenience, the term chancel to a chamber designed for di(Fcrent purposes i Miss Margaret Stokes has just called attention to the western chambers in primitive Irish churches.* Visiting the Church of St Fursa, near Lough Corrib, in County Mayo, she found this primitive edifice, built of grouting and undressed stone, with its square door lintel and sloping jambs, had no transept or chancel, but a. nave and western chamber of two storeys. The nave is 55 feet long by ao feet wide at broadest part, but it slopes gradually inwards towards the peculiar chamber, 9 feet long by 19 feet wide. This double storied similar arrangement is found at Aranmore, also built by St Fursa. This western chamber or ante-temple was meant by the Irish word erdam, used in Adamnan's Vision, where it is said, " The soul was borne in the twinkling of an eye through the golden portico (trdani)^ and through the glussen veil to the land of saints, into which she was first taken when she left her body." INTERIOR OK DALMENY IIU'RIII. I^lhi '■% Here the veil m.iy correspond to the wood screen dividing oil" the chancel from the body of the church. It was customary in the early ages to l»ury persons of rank or sanctity in the church porch, not in the church itself. Thus, nicording to Hcde, King Ethelhert was buried in the portico within the church ; so was Ari'hl>ishop Theodore, A.D. 690, as well as other Bishops of Canterbury, This was also the allotted reception chamber for penitents. The upper chamber seems to have been a numiment room, where relics were kept, as well as the illuminated manuscripts of the gospels. In Adamnaii's account of Arculf's travels in the Holy Land, he speaks of the fragments of the lance which pierced our Lord's side being kept in the Portico {cr,hnn) of the mi; % * "Tliri'e Monllis in the lorc^ls of I'raruf," vVr., TaHvs 14.) mul iji, W.'ik J:A '^fi!^#v:lli ■^>■•:'^'il''i!•■V■ ^;■f'?^^^;:^'*|; is; u as; Li i-L, u > ml ClUKCII OF SI HAI.DRKl), lYNNINGHAMK. Ai'si: Akcii, wKsr sidk. sol- in {)i- wKsr EMi oi- (HOIK. SOllir ()!• Al'SK AKCII. w^ircf:;^? 6«^ r!^ i/Ia'A. 5 • ._/ K<:-->7 ;;v«-^ LN>VA I ^sUJ r>^x -- _. g2l?ii?^#^ ■u.x^t S masonry, mixed at random with narrow stones, shows the inside walls to be packed with small rubble and grouted with lime and gravel. Perhaps the more thoroughly tooled apse, jambs, and arch tell of amendments to the plan of the hermit, who, according to the wont of his fellows, settled close beside the once strong castle, now also a ruin. The mediicval reconstruction followed the lines of the original plan, whatever enlargements may have been added. The present apse was left as it is in 1820, when the stones of the rest of the erection were taken to build the present parish church, in which are visible some quaint gargoyles. The apse is 17 feet 6 in. wide, with 7 feet of internal diameter; the breadth of tlie arch proper is 7 feet 6 in. The small window, which is 14 in. wide, and 2 feet 2 in. high, is deeply splayed to an opening of the 3 feet 3 in. thick wall. The total height to the string course at this point is about 12 feet, that of the apse arch is 12 feet 2 in., but the walls extend considerably below the present surface of the ground. May not this have been at first a primitive church of the sixth century or so ? In the old ruins of St Helen's, which overlook the German Ocean near Cockburns- path, may be found the barrel vault and other peculiarities of the primitive northern oratories. The plan shows a nave ^o feet 9 in. long by 18 feet wide, and a chancel 15 feet 2 in. long by 11 feet 6y, in. wide. Indications of north and south doors, with two narrow though deeply splayed windows on the south or landward side, having deep, shallow recesses underneath, start inquiries if this was not a storehouse and priests' dwell- ing, as well as a church. The manor, not the church, was granted by King Edgar (1098-1107) to the See of Durham, from which the monastery at Coldingham held. Square holes are seen all over the west gable ; a peculiarity, as we shall see, also of St Martin's, Haddington. Our plate shows this little church, known to be associated with the Cistertian Nunnery, whose stones are not now visible, in contrast with that of St Mary's, called by many, through mistake, "The Lamp of the Lothians," whose great central tower accords with the flamboyant traceried windows of the nave, recently renovated in the decorated style of the fifteenth century ; whilst the ruined chancel contains the mortal remains of Mrs Thomas Carlyle. The whole length of the pile is 210 feet; and that of the transept is iio feet. Against this in St Martin's, we have an oblong 55 feet in length by 16 feet 6 in. internally, with side walls built like those of Egilsey, of rough stones seemingly picked from the neighbouring Tyne river-bed, and grouted with pea and bean mortar. In the Nungate, or slums of Haddington, it stands, a crumbling monument of a time when it had a separate court of criminal jurisdiction, presided over by its own bailie. The mills, of which a very ancient one still enlivens the quiet neighbourhood, with the adjacent lands, belonged to the prioress of the Abbey of Haddington ; and at the time of the Reformation, her yearly income amounted to /'joS, 17s. 6d. Scots. Besides, each inmate of the Nunnery, half a mile down from St Martin's, had for alimental allowance, 4 bolls of wheat, 3 boils of meal, as well as 8d a day of pocket- money to spend on flesh and fish, as taste inclined ; and there were also coming into the common store, grassums, carriages, capons, and poultry, as also an allowance of £,^ yearly, f^r the clothes of each nun. Betwixt the time when Ada, Countess of North- umberland, and widow of the son of David I., founded this institute in 1178, and that when Alexander de St Martin gave it his lands and tenements of St Martinsgate, till the greater part of these were conferred by Qiieen Mary on William Maitland of Lethington, ST MARTINS, H.\I)I)IN(iTON. ST MARYS, 11 ADDING ION. -s^^^i^mMi&m" W- i ^V. €k^'^/^^P - y m 1-: \ I I kink -,1 \l.\k I IN ^, llADhlM. |().\. ON CHANCEL ARCHES. 43 in 1567, oversight of the fair occupants was held by monks, who, to do this, might have taiten .1 half-mile walk from the old chapel. It might also have been the centre of the office for factorage over so large and multifarious transactions in money and kind. It is still the graveyard of the poor ; and in those times, when Haddington was frequently subject to visits of hostile invaders, the last offices might be performed for nuns and others in the district, whose friends did not elect the dangers of a journey across the river to the other cemetery. The plan is much that of Egilsey and western island churches ; thick walls of 4 feet 4 in. ; two doors in the north and south walls standing opposite ; but one long window in the north wall alternately with two of the same pattern in the south one, all deeply splayed from 9 in. outside to nearly 5 feet within, and probably at first only covered with parchment. In our interior view, showing the north wall in its greater length, the photographer has depicted the present aspect of this ruin. The last south window near its corresponding door, is seen to be at some distance from the north one, whilst its neighbour one is hid by the buttress shown in our external view close to the chancel arch, being placed there to give light for cleansing the holy vessels ; for a small piscina is found in the interior, alongside of it. The narrow external westermost window is hid by the buttress, behind which is the south door, whose splay may be judged from its internal aspect, visible in the other view. The three south buttresses are manifest late additions to the first building ; as are, too, the fragmentary remains of corresponding ones on the north wall. The present chancel arch, which is well shown in our external view, is 7 feet 2 in. wide. It is built of a sandstone similar to that of the buttresses, as well as that of the south door, at the time of the corresponding renew.-ils of the wall beside it, as well as the western foundations. Some years ago, during excavations, traces of a wall 1 2 feet square were disclosed, right out from the chancel arch. v. as this apse part of the original church, or an appanage of the times of the nunnery ? To return within the building ; the ragged western opening was originally a square lintelled window, 2 feet 5 in. broad by 3 feet 8 inches high. The narrow opening through which the light streams in our picture, was a staircase to the top storey which ran along the whole length of the building, supported on a barrel vaulting of triangular thin Haggeu! stones, grouted, like the primitive wall , with pea and bean mortar. A pavement levelled by a brownish white cement, and on which grass and shrubs now grow, served for a floor of the priests' chambers. P'rom a re-inspection of our external view which shows the high gables, the intention of the buslders to make priests* chambers here is manifest, for a small window with wide splay is shown, though the walls here are onlv 2 tcet 8 in. thick, and a circular headed liirht also stream* into thih upper chamber, lower down on th'- west wall, which ; 13 feet from the ground. Little square holes extend over and through the wills in both drawings. Did they ron admit light ? Mr Rol)i)'s idea of their being foundations for scaffolding vvlien the walls weie extended, seems a little fiir fetched ; for the walls were broad, and the Iniilding narrow. Such characteristic holes we have also seen in the walls of St Helen's, .IS well as in those of other primitive cluirches. Perhaps during the frequent invasions of Haddington by the Englisii and others, throughout the period of the history of the nuimery, scaffoldings were erected outside the building for its defenders with bow and .irrow, or weightier projectiles. 44 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. The minister of the Nungate, shortly after the Reformation, petitioned the magistrates of Haddington to augment his starvation liiihtry. For as the nunnery had now been removed, the locality afforded neither scope nor remuneration ; so he was removed to the burgh church. Ever after, St Mary's hji ■ been a collegiate charge. The burial ground enclosing the ruins, specially that nart immediately surrounding them, is very flat. In this, too, it approximates to the plan of Egilsey. The discussion of the plate of the chancel arch of St Blane's, Bute, leads back to already trodden ground. Our picture gives a fait!»'\il restoration of this lovely structure, as it forms part of the ashlar wall, some 27 feet hi^ j, which still stands out most prominently in the ruins. The representation of the arch is that of it looking into the nave ; the chancel side of it is very plain. It is 4 feet 6-)4 inches at the spring of the arch ; but 7 feet 6]i inches near its centre. From the foot of the nook to height of label is nearly 1 1 feet. 1 he characteristic ornaments covering the soffits as well as the front of the two arches are, for the inner one, a simple beak head moulding ; whilst the zig-zag or chevron ornament of the outer one prominently strikes the eye. The small Greek cross on the centre stone of the label, with abruptly striated lines on either side, is its distinguishing feature. The rest of this outer carving '' "s lozenge shaped rectangles, prominent by alternate sinkings of the surface of the .one from a triangular form. This ornament continues in the string course running along the nave wall. The inner shafts are half-round, with jointing corresponding to the masonry, and have abaci cut vertically to support a rood screen ; sockets for the uprights of which still remain at the base of the columns. Mr Galletly, who spent a fortnight studying the place, makes the shafts of the outer columns, now wanting, of one piece. The view of the north chancel window given in the sketch, shows how the internal walls, though faced with ashlar, are of rubble trap, which indeed composes, either thus mingled or singly, a considerable portion of the niasonry a separate i hapel or as a chancel, in the eighth century, supplanted the D.iinhliags of St Patrick's ijay, buill of stimes and earth. The latter measured iH feet long, and 13 feet 6 inches wiile, But St Patrick built stone churches. In Kngland the Normans found stone churil\es, and only altereil their elevations, not their griiund plans, f(ir we tiiui I'Jij^lish puri'-h edilit i ., whii h were simple rectangles, :|*l lh(;1':r\V()()I) ciilrch. Cll.\\(i;i. .\K( il, SI' lll.ANI'.'S. lull' ■ms.-^'amm % f I ON CHANCEL ARCHES. 45 with no division of nave, and chancel and roof of one continuous ridge ; whilst others, with very small chancels, which had chancel arches, were square ended. In truth, the Norman masonry of the conquerors, so far as parish churches went, did not revolutionise but adapt itself to existing ideas brought down from Roman-Saxon times. So may not the reasonings of Rev. Mr Hewison and Mr Galloway prevail, that St Blane's was not built in Norman times ? The latter author holds that the Norman architects sought to preserve the primitive chapel by adding to it.* The minister of Rothesay suggests that St Blane's, as now standing, including the chancel arch, but with slight additions, is to be regarded as a specimen of the Celtic architecture which is known to have flourished ere Norman times. |" Of old Berwickshire was a land of ecclesiastical communities, ranging from the great centres at Coldingham to the smaller abbeys and nunneries of the Merse, and to little chapels like that of Legerwood, close to border towers which have now dis- appeared. The plate above the chancel arch of St Blane's shows the roofless chancel attached to Legerwood parish church, a comparatively modern erection, rebuilt first in 17 17, and afterwards in 1804. Part of the chancel arch as it is now, very shame- fully beplastered within the church, has been shown on our third page. The chancel itself is internally 7 feet 4 in. square, and built off by a side stone wall from the church, which the arch, ere hidden in vandal fashion, used nearly to span. In the accompanying plate of Mr Galletly's chancel arch restorations, that of Legerwood is the lowest drawing. The arch had an internal span of 1 1 feet 6 in. within the columns, whilst the mouldings averaged about 1 foot 5 in. in breadth. Their character, as well as the special ornaments of the capitals of the jamb columns, is duly delineated, both in proportionate and enlarged scale. Red coloured crosses on white grounds are found here and there on the chancel walls. This place was tributary, first to the Arch-Deaconry of St Andrews, and afterwards to Paisley Abbey. Monvmusk, in the valley of the Aberdeenshire Don, was one of the oldest Culdee settlements, also owing allegiance to the Bishop of St Andrews. After a fight of at least nearly a century, the Cheiedei were displaced by monks of the order of St Augustine, who became the richer by the neighbouring lands gradually gifted to their predecessors. The present church is in plan an oblong, 45 feet long and 20 feet 3 in. wide internally, with added side aisles. It is built of a pinkish bastard granite, with a few blue grcystones intemiixed. The corners, jambs, and rybats are of sandstone. The west tower is 21 feet 10 inches by 18 feet 9 in. externally, with walls 3 feet 6 in. thick, and fuilv 40 feet higit. The lower storey has a stone barrel vault of very rough stones. The second lirawing of our plate shows the chancel arch, with relative details of arch ami jamb. But within it, on a smaller scale, is the ancient doorway, on the west fiice of the tower, with irregular courses of masonry abutting on the jamb stones. The clianccl .irch is much hidden and defaced, and rests on a wooden floor. The shafts seen measure 5 feet 3 in. to the capital, but no bases are visible. Tlie chancel arch is S feet 6 in. wide. The exquisite though plain gem of Norman masonry of St Brandon's, Birnie, was the scat of the Bishop of Moray in the early part of the tenth century. It is about * " Arclix'olofiica Scotiia," vol. v., [Kirt ii. Edin. iSHo. t "Uiilc in ilic Oldtn I'liiu's," vol, i., p. 105. M t--*.iMi*I .itfe/,^%i,i^. 46 ANCIKNT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. I' if 11, J ^ If six miles from Elgin Cathedral ; and still holds in its malleable iron and bronze hand- bells, 10 to 12 inches high, memories of older Celtic times. The present building, re-erected from the old ashlar stones, is still notable for close jointing and other signs of early good workmanship in 1734. But the ground plan is on the Celtic fashion : a narrow oblong nave 47 feet long and 24 feet broad externally, and a chancel 19 feet square, with walls 12 to 13 feet high. North and south doors face each other, as in the similar structures already examined ; but both of these in the present one appear to be of later date to the walls ; so do all the windows, saving those lighting the chancel. Mr Galletly foreshortens the shafts of the chancel arch so as the more distinctly to delineate the beautiful chancel itself; the shafts, which are 5 feet 7 inches high, would have otherwise encroached on Monymusk Tower door of our plate. The diameter of the chancel arch is 7 feet 6 in., and its spring is 4 feet 7 in. from the wall corners on either side. The almost octagonal semi-cushioned mouldings of the semi-circular jamb is also given in larger detail. Birnie approximates to Jedburgh in this moulding, though again the beading above the cushions may also be seen in our Killarney plate of Celtic carvings on like columns. The richly ornamental stone font, also distinguishing Birnie, though unfigured in our drawing, stands at the base of the right jamb pillar. The irregular octagonal plinth surrounds a semicircular area of the bowl 6 in. deep, and i^yi in. in diameter. It slopes outside for 14 in. to the spiral column, on which it rests, — a beautiful and pleasing church ornament. Bonifacius may have come to the northern angle of Aberdeenshire to found the now ruined St Peter's, Peterhead. Old Deer Abbey stands close to Maud Junction, where the branch line from Aberdeen strikes off the main one of the Great North of Scotland Railway, and it was so named by Columba ; for on parting he designated the place as the monastery of tears. There may, then, be good ground to hold that a church may have existeil on the same site, about the middle of the eighth century, or over eleven hundred years ago.* The standing chancel arch, amidst crumbling walls of nave and chancel, was probably built, but mayhap according to the old plan, in Norman times. The nave, according to the plan in Mr Galletly's note book, is long and narrow, 65 feet 6 in. by 17 feet 6 in. or so broad, whilst the length of the chancel internally IS given at 17 feet, though it is noted how the chancel wall is broken at both ends. Then two ot the windows at the centre of the tower, now built in, but when open only six inches wide, are of earliest date. As the Rev. Dr Stewart shows in his most interesting painphict, this old church was once the only place of public worship for the iieighbcurliood. True, I'eterlieail people have grown numerically since 1593, when tlierc were iMily 56 ; or since 1727, when they had mounted to 900 ; but tiie popula- tion, w lucli was 400 in 1794, .uul has sinci: correspondingly increased, is now subdividcii into eleven denominations. But Buchan folks are a peculiar hard thinking race. Why shoulii they not retain that ancient lilierulity shown just alter the Retorniation, wlien, up at least to 1715, l'ipistoj),dians .iiui Presbytcri.m alike occupied their old St Peter's? The accompanying sheet ilriineates tlic two standing monuments of this vanished church tabric. 1 lie perspective view of tiic tower siiown within the chancel arch, and • "'llii' t laii.li III I'lUihrail : Driuiniinalioii.il, ( lirciiinlnnii ;il, and ru|M):;i:i|)lii( al.'' Hy Kiv. Janus Huwart, 1 ).])., IVHlhWik IVtuiliiail iSijo. ON CHANCKL ARCHES. 47 therefore drawn on a smaller scale, is of course not in natural position, though details are accurately given. The stones used for the walls of chancel and tower are of granite, mostly collected on the sea shore, with here ami there interspersed a few blue flaggy ones. The jamb-stones of the chancel, and the rybats of doors and windows in the tower, are red chocolate-coloured sandstones. If the chancel was refaced in Norman times, the builders followed old models, for its breadth is 7 feel 2^ in., with a height of 6 feet to the spring of the arch. The internal measure of the square tower is 9 feet 3 in. The height to the eaves of the slated roof is 33 feet 9 in. The bell on the top storey has an inscription on a band, with fleur-de-lis ornaments above and below it, as well as the date of 1647. After the traveller on the Forth Uridgc Railway to Aberdeen passes Dysart, once a cell of St Se'-f, and Markinch on the high Fife table-land, and next Cupar, he comes to Leuchars Junction, beside which is the ancient chapel of St Athernase, dedicated in A. D. 1244. It is still used, like Dalmeny, which it much resembles in architectural and other m GROUND PLAN HI I llAMil. AM) APSE, LKUCHARS. features, as the parish churcli. The outside of the apse and chancel is shown from the south-east in our illustration, without the mtulcrii steeple and bald modern kirk replacing the old nave. Some of the Irish eniigrants with Adrian, in the ninth century, appear to have settled here. What is now hijjhly cultivated flat land, was then swamp, with oases here and there, mostly of sand-dunes derived from the neigiibouring German Ocean. On perhaps firmer foundations stood an old casilc, the centre of local influence. The remnants of St Bernard's oratory arc near ; as is also a holy well, whose healing virtues lircw pilgrims from all quarters. What wmuler, then, if Leuchars became an ecclesiastical centre in correspondence with the Priories o( Arbroath, Lindores, and Cupar, as well as of St Andrews, to whom the care of it was assigned by Pope Gregory, in 1187. Alexander Henderson, when a stuilent at St Andrews close by, heard a sermon which roused him to shape tlic Scottish Keforniation into delinite course. The ground plan of cliaiicel and apse, as given above, was on the sclieme of St I! h 48 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. Patrick. Such dimensions, — apse, 11 feet 7 in. by 12 feet 9 in., and chancel, 19 feet 6 in. by 17 feet 8 in., — suggest numerical planning. So, too, of the spaces betwixt the columns in the arcades of chancel and apse ; not figured because of the small scale of our plan, but ranging parallel on either side from 3 feet 10 in. to 3 feet 8 in. in the spaces betwixt the circular columns of the long arcade ; and 4 fcct 3 in. to 4 feet betwixt the lower jamb columns of the outer semicircle apse. A somewhat symmetrical arrangement may also be seen in the disposition of pillars and mouldings in the lower and upper arcades, as exhibited on our view. The pillars of the lower arcade of the apse have no ornamented capitals, those atop are richly so, both support chevron and cable moulded arches, differing in pattern. The upper one has a heavy entablature, because of the different setting of the pillars. The columns of the upper chancel arcade, though supporting differing mouldings, resemble those of the apse. They rise on a specially moulded string course, just above the triangular intersections made by the interlacing arches of the first and third pillars of the lower arcade. Two narrow round-headed windows, seen in the upper storey, help with a third one on the north wall to light the chancel ; whilst one of such three similar windows in the apse is depicted. The central string courses of chancel and apse diverge in pattern. The heavy upper corbel table, supported by grotesque carvings of the heads of men, rams, and birds' beaks, is a marked feature of the building. The arch, looking from the apse into the chancel, is 8 feet 6 in. wide, with three jambs, which, as shown in the picture, are jointed in accordance with that of the ashlar of the wall. They have cushioned capitals, and the semi-shafts measure barely 7 in. at their centres. The capital in tlse interior, of one at least, is ornamented with figures of two fighting cocks pecking at each other. This is in unison with the grotesque heads terminating just at the string course, on which runs the deep lower splays of the windows. But the beaui'iful chevron mouldings of the groined roof can only be seen when the ugly support for the (citer hell tower is removed, as has been done in our second drawing. The chancel is cnrirely concealed by the plaster on the west side ; what remains of the two semicircular orders on the right side, with its chevrons, and trail of stars, shows it to have been verv beautiful. CHANCEL AKCII, I VNMNCJII AMI , (I'M M .1' tu ^>. ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l^|Z8 |2.5 lis 11122 2.0 ? '- III 11.25 i 1.4 1.6 ^- ,'*? '. %^ J^ !}' Photographic Sciences Corporation )3 WEST MAIN STRUT WEBSTIR.N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 KDkOM DOORWAY, 1896. CHAPTER X. ^1 COLDINGHAM AND ALLIED BUILDINGS. A.D. 615-1089. IT Baldred or Balther, as we have already seen, often paused in his evangelising of East Lothian to fast and meditate on the passion of Christ on the solitary Bass Rock. Inchkeith and Inchcolm, as well as the May, were in this seventh century tenanted by Celtic hermits or missionaries, eager, except the first mentioned saint, to labour in Fife or on the west shores of the Forth. Indeed for a century or so, ere Alexander, bestormed in Inchcolm, spent a night with the hermit of the beehive-like cell there, it had become the place ofsepulchre for the Culdees of Dunkeld. Soon after Tynninghame extended its influence from the Musselburgh Esk to the Lammermuirs. Again, on the south slope of these hills as they dip into the North Sea, Coldingham Priory rose in the same century, as well as the missionary establishment of Lindisfarne on the Northumberland coast, both being centres of light to southern Scotland. On a stormy day, A.D. 616, the cry of "Stranger visitants come!" startled the monks of lona. When their ferry-boat returned it brought a little boy of twelve years of age, an orphan of the king of Northumbria just cruelly slain in battle by the heathen king of the East Angles, and now sent by the Pictish king for Christian training. The sixteen years' novitiate of Oswald, chiefly under the gentle Aidan, first bore fruit at his victory near Hexham over Cadwallon, king of the Strathclyde Britons, by a handful who had previously knelt in devotion beside a wooden cross, bearing the legend, " In hoc signo vittces." The new Bernician king speedily sent to lona for a missionary. At first Cornan, but afterwards his old tutor Aidan, came on foot to charm Oswald's subjects by external graces of character, the new king meanwhile acting as interpreter. Just opposite Bamborough Castle the royal residence, was low-lying Lindisfarne ; and Aidan at once seized the possibility of making on the east coast another lona, which so became the centre of a great district, from the slopes of the Cheviots to the central Tweed valley, under first the bishopric of Aidan, and afterwards of Cuthbert. Thus, the natural divisions of southern Scotland marked out the course of its early evangeliser, Aidan, who travelled on foot, poor because distributing in alms any largess bestowed on him, and as well known in wattle-daubed forest shieling as in royal palace. Spending and spent, his labours showed fruit long after the too early slaughter in battle of Oswald. They also extended from the VVooler hills to the Tyne valley where Paulinus a century before had baptised in the Christian Name, but the little abiding fruit of this had been almost swept away at the inroads of the Pagan barbarians. "Old Mailros," though not the institution whose ruins the tourist visits, had already risen in the Tweed valley, in due time to furnish Cuthbert, who was so greatly to extend the work. Indeed, omitting Ninian's old territory of the country of the Strathclyde Britons, the path of the early missionaries, who '^^^S^S^SsSK^^vura 50 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. usually evangelised two and two, is that of George Stephenson's " coo frighteners," by the alternate East Coast and Waverley routes from Edinburgh to England. Even after two centuries, when owing to cruel Viking ravages Lindisfarne became a desolation, the faithful monks bearing the remains of St Cuthbert traversed all this territory till they found a resting place at Durham ; to reach this they journeyed amidst the territory of an adverse people. Oswald's kingdom of Deira and Bernicia stretched from the Humber to the Forth. It thus held the sees of both York and Durham. The former was founded by Augustin, the first emissary from Rome to Britain, in the previous century, who found the fierce southern paganism of the island more than a match for his energies. His northern emissary, Paulinus, one of whose baptising centres was at Pallinsburn, near the later site of the field of Flodden, had to leave England A.D. 633. — when the country was conquered by Penda, king of Mercia, and Cadwallon, king of the Strathclyde Britons. The kingdom then relapsed into paganism. Aidan set aside Hilda, of the royal lineage of Deira, the south side of Northumbria bounded by the Tyne, as Abbess, first of Tynemouth, but afterwards of Whitby, where she ruled two separate establishments for monks and nuns for thirty years. So, too, did Ebba, sister of King Oswald, at Coldingham on the Berwickshire coast. She was a princess of the rival Bernician dynasty, being consecrated as abbess by Tinan who succeeded Aidan at Lindisfarne. Unable to round St Abb's Head in a storm, when rieeing from Penda, king of Mercia, who wished her in marriage, she landed on the rough headland in A.D. 660, and built a chapel. There are still foundation marks of two buildings near each other. St Cuthbert, when visiting the joint establishment in 669, practised a habit of Old Melrose, of standing up to the neck in water through some night hours, repeating prayers. Of the prophecy of one Adamnan, who never took food bi'f on Thursdays and Sundays, how the irregularities practised in the great establish- ment would cause its ruin, others have told. It was soon after burned to the ground by the pirate Vikings. But when again reconstituted, it is said that both abbess and nuns slit the points of their noses, hoping thus to scare the heathen plunderers. It was restored in 1089 by Edgar, a son of Qiieen Margaret, who colonised it with Benedictine monks from Durham. The place, thus an after dependency of the great English See, was far more intimately connected with the fortunes of the Scottish court ; associated with it were plots nearly shattering the occupancy of the throne. Standing right in the coast highway to England, it was the scene of receptions and bombardments, as well as fell conspiracies, which often rise round places where great men sleep. The ruins of priory and convent are very extensive, including a nave and choir 90 feet long by 25 feet brond, and a transept 41 feet long by 34 feet broad. The great tower, 90 feet high, fell neirly one hundred and forty years since ; and later still fell a graceful chancel arch betwixt the choir of our plate and the refectory, which added diversity to the ruins. The photo-lithograph shows part of the choir, which, with the surrounding north and east walls of the priory, was restored for use as the parish church in 1855 ; which is H4 feet long by 23 feet broad ; the style is partly Norman and also partly first pointed. The two square eastern turrets, within which are pilasters dividing the centre of the building, whence the sloping roof falls to the south and north sides, illustrate the style of the whole buildings, which included nave and aisles, as also refectory. Tlu chevron mouldings of the lower arcade, running betwixt pilasters stopping at the upper string course but running past the middle one, curiously zigzagged just below the shafis 1 , COLDINGHAM AND ALLIED BUILDINGS. 5' enclosing the upper windows, also deserve notice. When the church was adapted for use, the whitewash of the ceiling was removed displaying an unique internal style of ornament best appreciated by the accompanying illustration. In the lower storey is a continuous pointed arcade of single detached shafts, with rich carving ; the upper one has a detached arcade, with passage behind in the thick- ness of the wall, and alternating high and low pointed arches. All down the Merse district are ruins of former ecclesiastical dependencies of Coldingham. Foremost amongst them are those of Lennel nunnery, on the north bank of the Tweed, just above Coldstream. The 4 feet thick walls, and triangular arch just beyond which is a modern house used by the watchers at the time of the resurrection scare incident on Burk and Hare tragedies of Edinburgh in 1829, hints evolutionary ideas, certainly much before the time of the more perfect arch of Carnock also a ruin, but on the Forth, of late Norman age. Yet, the entrance into the burial place of the Gordons, an architectural appanage of Edrom Parish Church, shows perfect form at an 41 COLDINGHAM INTERIOR. of artli early time. This little dependency of Coldingham Abbey is situated on the Whitadder, near Duns, and adjoins Blanerne Castle, once a redoubted Border keep, but now a dairy, and shows restorations of King David's age, as well as ruder ones of last century. The light greenish-grey stone of this doorway is much worn over the carved portions specially at the arches so as to obliterate the zigzag and key mouldings ; parts of the carvings only on the capitals are preserved. The weather-worn jamb columns, 6 in. in diameter, are built in pieces, and are 5 feet 10 in. high or so. The entrance is 4 feet 7 in. wide ; and the height about 1 1 feet. The joints, which are not the original ones, arc from a quarter to barely half an inch. As the doorway now faces the east, Mr Galletly holds it has been rebuilt ; and as the lower arch stones are not original, they may have been placed at some time during the renovations of the door, which may possibly have been done thrice altogether. The mortuary chapel to which it is now the entrance, is about 19 feet square, and has inside a slightly pointed vault. The restored details of arch and carvings on capitals, given in the accompanying photo-lithograph, meant study by the 52 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. sculptors, as also the doorway given in the plate of reproductions of similar examples of ecclesiastical architecture. Do not the grotesque faces amongst entwined spirals of the capitals suggest Celtic rather than Norman Art ? As Canon Greswell of Durham has shown, this moulding prevailed in little Northumbrian churches of St Cuthbert. Indeed, in early Anglo-Saxon times, many so called Norman features were introduced or anticipated, as in the entrance porch of the old church at Wroxham, in Norfolk, which is reproduced in a preceding plate from a negative made in one of Mr Galletly's tours. The carvings are on the style of Edrom ; heads and spirals, though not seen in our plate, which is of an improved arch, ornament the capitals. The chevron carvings of the arch as well as the tree-stemlike peeled columns, only show the good use of pliable material like the soft limestone of this church in skilful hands. This was the case, too, with those who cut out the chevrons, as also the lozenge-shaped and label carvings of Edrom arch. The accompanying drawing of Celtic carvings from Kilkenny, made in pencil sketch during Mr Galletly's last months of life, shows ornaments closely approaching those of Edrom. Many competent Irish archaologists hold that though both Jerpoint and Freshford were partly restored at the Norman era, they nevertheless show ornaments of much more hoary antiquity. They also trace the unique chevron and like mouldings to that far back time Dalmeny doorway, with its two solid shafts, the outer round and the inner octagonal, is a study in sculpturings worthy of a chapter, altogether apart from that of the two figures guarding the outer and inner encasing arches. The visitor to the interior of the church has already seen some approaches to the grotesque heads guarding the door ; but he may spend an hour carefully discriminating those two lines of winged birds, griffins, serpents, besides combinations of birds and quadrupeds, thus permanently encasing the sculptured fancies of the monks or Culdees. In the restoration of Duddingston Church doorway set to proper use by entrance of warrior and son, the complete arch mouldings are given. The richly sculptured shafts have a representation of the crucifixion, and the incident of Peter's cutting off the ear of the high priest's servant. The parish church of Lamington in Lanarkshire is just off the main line of the Caledonian Railway, south from Carstairs Junction. The old doorway, with its peculiar rope mouldings, of which a restoration is given, will be found built into the present church wall. This record of the past dates at least from the reign of David I. Adaptability of material at hand is shown in the great Dun or stone and earth fortress of Edenshall above Coldingham, the southmost relic of such Picts' fastnesses. Again, the Roman invaders made the most of northern materials new to them, whether in the little oratory at Manor near Peebles, whose supposed origin by Christians in the camp is confirmed by a like discovery just made at Silchester, or in the wall flanking the Cheviots, a rampart of which is given in our tailpiece. OXNAM ROMAN RAMPART. RESTORATIONS. FROM WATER COLOUR DRAWINGS BY MR (lALLKTLY. EUROM CHURCH. DAl.MliNV CHLKCn, l,.\MI\i;i()N (lUKc II. DL'KDINCSION ClirRCH. ^i'^*'-''}''..J^J >- ■t jpVpyc^w^^H 1 1 z I XI O u a: o ■J. y. SPECIMENS OF ANCIENT CELTIC ARCHITECTURE IN COUNTY KILKENNY. jmtv w w i i i '^« wffpq'e.- iiB i mLs >'f«r SQUARR ORNAMENT ON ROUND I'M.I.AR, JHRFOINT. SQUAKK I'lLASTKK, S. TRANSKl'T, JKRl'OIN I' AllBKV. KII.I.ESIIIN. SOFFIT ORNAMENT OF DOOR AT IRESHFORD. m RETURN OF JAM 11 OF DOOR AT FRKSHFORD. SOFFIT OK DOORWAY, FRESIIFORD. UJ O O o o CHAPTER XL ON STYLES AND NAVES. 1^ ^- INTIL lately at least the non-ruinated buildings of Scotland erected during the energy for such work developed in England and Europe by the Norman conquest, were Glasgow and Kirkwall Cathedrals. Our sketches illustrate the latter pretty fully. The north transept of St Magnus, along with the smaller illustrations, indicate the growth of style during its building. For the pure Norman flourished from 1075 to 1 175 ; the early pointed extending for a hundred years from the latter date, when it was displaced by the decorated style, which ruled till 1375. The Normans improved on existing buildings, and only dung down the smaller kirks because they could not hold the crowds coincident with the rise of the regular church orders. The rectangular polished ashlar masonry, with circular arched doors and windows, were not the express creations either of Charlemagne or William the Conqueror, but slow building adaptations of the Romanesque style, with other details, originally coming from Italy. The great meeting-place of the people, the nave, was borrowed with the divisions of the new cathedral buildings from the Basilica, or Roman hall of justice ; these were the choir, apse, and outer court for penitents and strangers ; whilst the aisle, triforium and clerestory vertical divisions of the surrounding walls slowly developed by the experience of the early centuries. The idea of the cruciform shape, with its four naves at right angles, was brought into Italy from the east ; and so too varied peculiarities, both of this and the pointed style, which were modified on the Rhine and central France owing to changing climate and building stones. The native architectural genius of the north did not slavishly copy existing models, witness the Church of St Michael, planned by the learned tutor of King Othis (936-1002). Charlemagne, too, at his invasion, found smaller churches scattered through France ; but that they still exist is shown by the illustration of Qiierqueville church tower, near Cherbourg, taken from Mr Galletly's continental note books, built of a schist, which also serves for its roof, with a few freestones as string courses and rybats. The tower is nearly as broad as the nave, which is 1 1 feet broad and 1 5 feet long internally. This small structure boasts of three apses arranged in cuneiform plan, each 10 feet by 7 feet. There are here no mouldings ; for the adaptation of means to ends does not permit ornamentation. Near here, too, the Northmen under Rollo, when converted to the Christian fiiith, rebuilt in refined primitive Romanesque, in 930, a church they had previously destroyed. Thus it came that Norway became a centre for diffusing architectural taste to its then Orcadian colony. The southern Scottish Abbeys were completed in a like time to that of the northern St Magnus, and thus show similar architectural features, which are also varied because of dissimilarity in building material. Jedburgh, Dryburgh, and Melrose o 54 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. I have in their records connections with Lindisfarne. But the abbey of the former was founded in 1118; that of Kelso in 11 28; whilst additions and rebuildings consequent on hostile English raids went on for at least two hundred years. The new abbey of Melrose was founded in 11 36. Dryburgh Abbey, founded in 11 50, continued like its other southern compeers just enumerated till the close of the sixteenth century. The Norman windows with three orders in the choir, shown on the left side of the drawing of the north transept of St Magnus, as well as those of rounded arch and label in that portion of the Cathedrnl, and in the nave to the right, are eminently characteristic peculiarities of this Romanesque style, whilst the flat pilasters, semi-buttresses, are peculiar to this period. The little shafts or colonnettes of the windows, with none of the classic proportions of Greece and Rome, are very distinct. That they are a copy of continental examples is shown by Mr Galletly's rough diagram from his note books, here reproduced, of the south gable of Strasbourg Cathedral. --nr.-r>^Y-g^ 'HP SOUTH GAHI.E OK SIRASUOlIRCi CA IHEDRAL. The gable mouldings, as well as the Romanesque arcade of the wall, though not enriched, also at the same time show how well an indifferent red sandstone has been utilised in building this pile. The south transept, shown in one of our smaller views of Kirkwall Cathedral, has likewise a rose window, with mouldings slightly varied from that of Strasbourg. The nave of St Magnus Cathedral, with its heavy pillars, supporting triforium, and clerestory, aloiig with vaulted roof, — how it strikes a stranger — has been carefully depicted in the pen-drawing. But Mr Galletly, in the only completed MS. found at his death of this intended work, gives his "impressions of this noble building" : — " A glance at the ground plan of Kirkwall shews that, supposing the mason work to be fairly good, it must be a building of great strength. In plan it is liker that of a modern prison than of a modern church, when the area occupied by the walls and pillars is compared with that of the open floor area. But of course it is totally unlike a prison, in having arcades instead of closely walled cells. The nave is 120 feet long, but its central aisle is only 16 feet in width, while the side ones are only 10 feet ON STYLES AND NAVES. 55 wide. The columns here are as much as 5 feet in diameter, with interspaces of only 8 feet. Stone vaulting covers the greater portion of the side aisles. All the details in the interior of the nave are severely plain. Most cf the capitals of the columns and piers have only plain mouldings, and are not of the cushion type. There must be few if any Norman buildings in the British Islands or in Normandy itself with similar capitals or imposts. The massive pillars, the thick walls they carry pierced with the arches of the triforium and clerestory, and the limited amount of light admitted by the small windows in the side walls of this part of tlie church, give the nave a cavern- like but at the same time a most pleasing appearance. Sparing lights and dark shades give a fine effect to the massive pillars and the tiers of recessed arches which they support ; and the bare, massive, roughly hewn but regularly coursed masonry which everywhere meets the eye, has about it an impressive appearance of strength, sternness and stability which smoother work would fail to produce. The narrow and seemingly lofty transepts have also a fine effect. So also has the rather more ornate and more varied choir." The accompanying sheet of details illustrates interior specialties. The plan at the top of the sheet is taken close above the capital of the western pillar of the north arcade of the choir, whence a variety of arches spring. On the right of this is an elevation of a nave column, the height of whose shaft is 13 feet 10 inches ; above it is the line of triforium wall. The top pillar on the left of the drawing shows the cushioned capital of the middle pillar of south side of choir, whilst the innermost elevation of the left side gives the moulding of the capital of the respond ; and the outer one to it, is that of a triforium pillar, which has a diameter of 6 feet zYi inches. Within is an illustration of scroll carving of the side pillar of the chancel arch ; above it is a representation of the grotesque carvings on capital of eastmost old pillar on the south side of the choir ; and beyond this the capital of the middle pillar next respond, also on this south side. The brackets, with gargoyles, are just at the string course, dividing the clerestory from the triforium, and at the springing of the vaulting arches of the roof. Kirkwall Cathedral, as Mr Galletly points out, is one of the few churches erected in a district with freestone near at hand ; so the greater part of its external walls, built of a thin, flaggy, claystone rubble, show very little of the "cubical" ashlar, otherwise so prevalent in Norman buildings. The closer study of this great, scant-lit, narrow fane, 217 feet 6 inches long, and 71 feet high, with a total breadth of 47 feet, may suggest how the later Gothic archi- tecture modified its apparent defects. For when newer buildings of like proportions had to be provided with a wider nave, pointed arches and wall buttresses added magnificence to the stern grandeur of this pile. Lighter though larger pillars and windows also gave southern cathedrals a joyousness lacking in this memorial of St Magnus. Excepting the newer choir, the builders of St Magnus used a flaggy rubble for most of its walls. When some special ornamental architectural addition was made, this was replaced by a sandstone ashlar, whose contrasting red and yellow colours form a marked contrast to the prevailing blue hue of the walls. Thus, the grand west front triple doorway of late pointed style, and the Norman north doorway of the nave, and the other erections, principally of the interior, in the sheet of details, but also our drawing of the north transept, show the conjunction of ashlar and rubble. The beautiful and unique mouldings of tlie examples just referred to, demand patient study. 56 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. The nave of Dunfermline Abbey, internally io6 feet long by about 55 feet betwixt the aisle walls, is, with a small portion of the refectory, almost all that remains of the ancient monastery. Though the Culdees had a settlement, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, long previous to the reign of Malcolm III., whose favourite residential tower was also here, his name is associated with the founding of this Abbey Church, the place also of the marriage and burial of his spouse, the saintly Queen Margaret. It was amended by his son, David I., and finished in A.D, 1 1 13. The neighbouring monastery was occupied when completed, about A.D. 1 1 24. The great Cross Church, begun in A.D. 1216, and opened in A.D. 1226, with choir, transept, presbytery, etc., was built because the Abbey Church was unsuited for the parade of the new worship. No vestige of this choir now stands. Dunfermline nave differs from that of Durham Cathedral mostly in its more meagre proportions. Thus the stumpy pillar shafts, 4 feet 1 1 inches in diameter, and 16 feet 6 inches high, placed about 10 feet apart, have a family likeness to those of Kirkwall and Jedburgh. The zig-zag and fluted capitals of some of the pillars, imitated from those of Durham Cathedral, at whose foundation King Malcolm attended, at once strike us. Resting on square plinths, and having cushioned capitals like their adjacent plain fellows, they support pier arches with bold mouldings, surrounded by label ornaments. The triforium arches are not right over those of the nave aisles. This arch pattern also contrasts with the richly carved one of Durham, and is 8 feet 3 inches wide, and 6 feet high to its spring. The plain cushioned jambs, with arch springing from a large roll in the centre of the wall, may be seen in our illustration ; as well, too, as the clerestory arch, with its plainly moulded shaft. How the aisles are vaulted and groined, and also the internal ornaments of their windows, with the lower arcade carving, is worth attention from the student. Extreme narrowness with height is peculiar to other Scottish churches of the twelfth century besides Kirkwall. We have already noted this at lona. But Jedburgh and Melrose, as well as Dundrennan Abbey, in Kirkcudbrightshire, show the same features, while as much may be said for Whithorn, in Wigtonshire. Though Kelso Abbey has a nave only 22 feet by 18 feet, Jedburgh Abbey has one of 1 29 feet long by 57 feet over the aisles. So, too, the length of that of Dundrennan is 134 feet by 63 feet wide all over. This magnificent ruin, under care of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests since 1842, and the starting stage of Qiieen Mary ere embarking for England in 1568, was founded by David I. about 1 142, and colonised by Cistertians from Rieval, in Yorkshire. We give an illustration of the interior of the north transept. 1: \i KIKKWAI.1. hKOM THE SEA. f\ DUNDRENXAN. (•.\l'n'.\l.S (»!■ AUOVK. CAI'H'AI.S OI AllOVK, :n I. M 1 •i it. i ^s T^ ~L_- «." 1 W) ' .--v*,.' ^ ■^-'■^»r«©«5(BW^-: Be , ,'^ . ---^T???:;.®-- B ^^^f' 1 ^^- "^^^'-^^^ ' ^^9% ^^B " BIB'4 B^^^^Bl ^ ^^Hii -;'^^| ^^■^^H «^«^ l'^W"'Hbi BlLiat- ■:■ ^t:l«i«^: . i WINDOW. DRV ML KG 11 AHliKV, m^^^^.miiM 1 4 1 ' i- •"i*"****^ ,^^ t''*'^^"^':?^-' 1 p, ■• '■■:'''^?£^m mniuPiilHi CI.OlSri'RS DOORWAY, DRVIURCill AHIU-A CHAPTER XII. ANCIENT DOORWAYS. lUNFERMLINE, Kelso, and Jedburgh, near palaces, were under special royal patronage, had enormous possessions, while their abbots were de facto the kings of vast territories. Kelso in particular was in hot rivalry with Durham. So it happened that invasions and sacks were frequent episodes in the early history of these establishments. The lead of the roofs of Kelso Monastery, at the time extending over the area of nearly the modern town, was rich booty to the English invader. The abbot had the power of pit and gallows ; so a motley crew of penitents, suitors, unintentional manslayers desirous of the shelter of asylum, and others assembled round his gate. Such entrance, then, to the tabernacle of peace and safety, while providing facilities of inspecting the outer petitioners, should show externally the strength and beauty of the internal fortress, of the high tower whose round arched windows also gave grandeur and beauty, as well as a sure vantage ground to the defending marksmen. So the sculptors, many of them monks in communication with the continent, showed a pride in unique planning from those gorgeous patterns already adorning the western fa9ades of newly erected European churches, so far as the material at hand permitted. As Sir Gilbert Scott says — " Further north — from Hexham Abbey — we have noble examples at Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dryburgh : the first having the round arch nearly throughout ; the second, as I have before said, famed for its exquisite doorways ; and the last having doorways equally refined, but remarkable rather for their chaste simplicity than for their richness of detail." * In the plate of Dryburgh cloisters doorway, the plain mouldings, only enriched by a row of dog tooths throughout its length, and its three simple orders, with abutting unglazed windows, form part of a once tall building, graceful also from the skilful arrangement of round windows like the one depicted. The doorway of the north transept of Dundrennan also illustrates dignity and simplicity, and Mr Muir reckons it, with one at south-east of the nave of the Abbey Church, Paisley, as amongst the smaller but comparatively good Scottish examples of the Norman style. The capitals at Dundrennan may be observed as of unequal size in this plate of restoration ; and the door sill, though now hidden by earth, takes the form of a cross. Our draughtsman has varied his figures of monk and prior, with a modern dweller in Paisley suitably attired. A strange fancy ! though not suggestive of future advertising uses of the picture ; and not obscuring the graceful arch mould- ings and foliage of the capitals. The breadth of doorway at the position of the figure is 5 feet 5^4 in- One of the richest finds in the excavations of the ruins of St Martin's Priory, * " Lectures on Medieval Arcliitccture," vol. i. p. 122. P S8 ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. Wigtonshire, carried on since 1885 by Mr William Galloway, under the auspices of the Marquess of Bute, has been that of the Norman doorway, of which we give Mr Gallctly's view, and sheet of details. The doorway, found covered with ivy so as practically to conceal its design, now stands on the south side of the Priory, a long narrow building whose erection was continued through the twelfth into the fourteenth century. But as this portal, one of the most perfect of Scottish ones of its style, shows strong evidences of having been shifted, it may once have stood beside the western tower, which, till it fell in 1707, was a beacon to mariners making for the neighbouring shore. The woman in the archway, though dressed in present day fashion, holds one of the Norman pottery jars of special pattern which have been discovered in the district. Mr Galloway was Mr Galletly's constant correspondent and friend, and the draw- ings were made with his assistance from careful measurements made on the spot. I quote from Mr Galletly's two note books devoted to this object — "Contrasted with similar work at Jedburgh, Kelso, or Dunfermline, the stone-work of the enriched door- way at Whithorn is in excellent preservation. If not the best, it is one of the best preserved in Scotland. Even the carved soffits of the orders are but little worn. The jamb columns are built in pieces, and both these and the arch stones are closely jointed for Norman work. The whole doorway has in some degree — perhaps only in subsidiary points — the appearance of having been taken down and rebuilt. Thus the stones forming the abaci of the two inner capitals, on right-hand side, are not placed square ; at least one of them is well round to a diagonal position ; the joints appear to me to be on the fine side for the style of carving, which indicates early rather than late Norman, although the date of the doorway is believed to be the early part of the twelfth century. Possibly it may be the last of the Norman carved doorways to become obliterated in its decline by decay." The sandstone used in building this doorway was obtained, not in Wigtonshire, but from a distance. The doorways of smaller Scottish churches showed their architects desirous to fulfil functions connected with the great abbeys. Thus Stobo, p. 40, and Tynninghame had Kelso as suzerain ; while both held the right of sanctuary. The porch of the former with its simple though beautiful doorway, and that of Uphall, shown on a preceding sheet, inspired hope to the troubled wayfarer. Abercom, three miles north- east from the latter, and the seat of Bishop Trumwin from A.D. 681 to 685, had a similar doorway, now built into the wall with tympanum of stones set in zig-zag pattern. But at a similar distance to the west, Torphichen held the hospital and preceptory of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem — a powerful corporation in these and later centuries. Their influence reached to the Holy Land, but extended locally to Midcalder and Kirkliston. Mr Galletly has restored a magnificent doorway, now built into the wall of the parish church of the latter place — which still retains its Romanesque tower, though otherwise an entire renovation. This doorway, indeed, like its neighbouring plainer one, may have shifted its first site, for the Knights grew in national importance with the centuries. Thus Sir John Sandilands, who died at Flodden in 1513, was succeeded by Sir George Dundas, who was a school-fellow of Hector Boethius in Paris. Again, it was at Sir James Sandilands' house, near Midcalder, where John Knox administered the first Protestant communion in Scotland. The change of style in the capitals of this doorway, along with other details, is observ- able. It is 4 feet 9 in. wide, and has a total measurement of 14 feet 7 in. Of the >»;--::T^iif^ i i' -V^/*-* NORMAN DUORWAY, WHITHORN. DETAILS or DOORWAY, WHITHORN. I I o u I T ill l ii lW* i>ii ir ; • ■^-'-'"■■^-■- '"t* ■ -^ -' it ANCIENT DOORWAYS. 59 seven shafts supporting the four orders, th^ first and third of which have chevron ornaments, three larger ones are at the outer angle on either side, and the others follow, tall and small, in alternate arrangement. Jambs, which are shafts wifh capitals, support a plain outer label, beneath which, again, is an elaborate chevron nood. So far, then, this bold doorway would inspire the sick or troubled refugee seeking its shelter with hope, as being the fit entrance of a strong place. The north doorway of the nave of St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall, our next restoration, follows, though more simply, the same lines of ornamentation. But here, the trigonal label, i o feet 6 in. high from the abacus at the top of the capitals, indicates the introduction of Transition style, so markedly shown in the magnificent triple door- way of the western gable. The surrounding ashlar work replacing the rubble on the left side, and continued past the buttress to the west front, exhibits this as a recent addition, probably made when the two additional bays of the nave gave an increase to its length. The interior elevation of the door in the south aisle of the nave combines simple Norman with the polychrome, in red and yellow, so extensively introduced in other parts of the cathedral, and tending greatly to its decay. The nave of Dunfermline Abbey Church, as we have already seen, is the remanent survival of the massive monastery buildings, but even it has additions of later date. Thus the ungainly buttresses were added to its exterior betwixt 1590 and 1630 : Gothic windows were made to replace three Norman ones of the north front, betwixt 1750 and 1 790 ; and about the same time saw the building of the steeple at the west gable of the western entrance. Indeed, a thunder-storm of 1 807 '•aused the destruction of the south- west tower, one of two guarding the magnificent west doorway of the western fa9ade, in many ways unique in Scotland, and which added much to its majesty, like that of a smaller York cathedral. The Abbey Church was forty-three years a-building, and its construction, like most of those worked at by the travelling architects and masons of contemporary cathedrals of the time, was from east to west — a temporary stone screen sufficing for the portions ready for use in public worship, till at length times of peace and plenteous exchequer permitted the worshippers to enter the fully adorned interior by the just ready great western entrance. Of this entering doorway, now in sore decay, Mr Galletly made a coloured restoration, which we reproduce. It projects a few feet out from the west gable. The cushioned pillar shafts, five on each side, recede at a sharp angle to the door, thus diminishing their respective distances while approaching it. The semicircular arches they support, with their rich chevrons, rosettes, and diapers, are guarded by an outer arch, of which eleven of the twenty-three stones have carved heads, with alternating geometric figures. The stone splay roof makes this entrance, 20 feet high and 16 feet broad, unique in Scotland. The Canons regular of Jedburgh, like the Benedictines of Kelso, ten miles off, preferred to exercise their vocation as craftsmen, teachers, musicians, and the like, in haunts where men do congregate, thus differing from the secluded communities of Dryburgli and Melrose. Jedburgh was tiunous in Border story from the tenth to the sixteenth centuries, as a place of sieges, razings, rebuildings, with interludes of royal marriage, at wliich a ghost appeared. Its architectural features bespeak of such revolutionary changes. Monuments of the earlier times are found, such as the Celtic cross in a lintel in the south cliapel of the choir, a fit companion to a like stone found in 6o ANCIENT TOWERS AND DOORWAYS. m the churchyard at Yctholm. The two bays of the Norman choir, suggested by Durham, that perfect imprint of Romanesque, one of which is figured where the stumpy pillars reach up to and enclose the triforium arches, Cv^utrast with the great nave, which like the tower, with surrounding transepts, is of the later transition style. In the reproduction of the doorway at the east end of the south aisle wall of Jedburgh nave, not its fac-simile to the west, ererced at the instance of the Marquess of Lothian, the mailed warrior is passing through an inner entrance of lo feet 6 in. high, which is also there 4 feet 8 in. wide. The special foliatures of the jamb, a continuance of the inner order of the arch, is beautified by the prominent chevrons, just beneath which are the symbolisms of hurpies, mermaids, Samson and the lion, with David and the bear, as well as other like mediaeval sculpturings. A sheet of such details taken from a note-book sketch may assist the student. The restoration of the great western doorway, left incomplete in the absence of satisfactory data to fill in details, shows fuller ornamentation of the jambs, with special adaptations of chevrons, fish-bones, zig-zags, as well as carvings of flowers, and human and animal faces which mark the orders of the arch. See also the separate sheet. This noble entrance to the long drawn out nave with pointed pillar arches, was fully 20 feet high outside, diminishing to 14 feet 4.% in. at the entrance to the nave. It recessed for 6 feet 2 in., and had there a width of 6 feet i ]4 in. Its great Norman window, 18 feet high above it, again superimposed by a St Catherine's wheel, made it a noble object, though not in the drawing of this west wall of 1790, with humble two- storied thatched cottages on a rough roadway more Scottico. Our process block shows all that atmospheric decay has left of Kelso Abbey west doorway. So, too, the minute details of Mr Galletly's restoration, which has special cable, chevron, zig-zag, and bird's head mouldings on the orders of the arch. We also give a restoration of the rapidly crumbling interlacing arcade shafts and unique mouldings of the beautiful north transept doorway of the same ruin. The west doorway of Holyrood Abbey shows six orders of mouldings, inter- mingled with exquisitely cut foliage. The tympanum, supposed to be a newer addition from the second pointed period, as well as the flamboyant windows, and the awkward conjunction of the palace buildings, suggest a time when the doorway was doubled. At St Mary's, Haddington, a fine example of the double doorway, the shield on the capital of the central pillar displays the implements of the Passion. roRMKK rVMPANl'M OK I.INPOS IMIKCII DOORVVAV, DrXI'llRMLIM'. Alilil.V, W i;s T DOOKWAV ki;s lOKHI). Wl'ST DOORWAY, llOlAROOD AlilU'V. Sr MAKV'S DOORWAY, HAI )I)I\(;'1()X. IKDBLRdll WICsr I)(){)K, iS.^fi Ki:i.SO -NORTH KOORWAV. i.S.,r.. (ILKR(>LKV1I,1.K. DUNDRKNNAN AHBKV. NORII AM CROSS. !KV. » I'lC.URKS IN SCUKPTIREI) RINC. OF SOIII! DOORWAY. JKOIRlUill AIJUHV. '*^*^--. INDICES INDEX. Page Abercorn, 35 Brendon the voyager, Abcrdour— Buchan, . i8 Bridget, St, . Aberneth)-, . ■ i6, 19, 29, 30 Brown, John, of Carpow, Abcrnethj- Round Tower, 19, 25, 26 Brown, Prof., of St Andrews, Acca, .... 35 Buchan, Mormaer, Ada, Countess of Northumberland, 42 1 Bunkle, Adamnan— Life of Columba, . 1,40 Aidan, Ualriadian Kinij, 6 j Cainich, Aidaii, 49 Ciiildida Casti, Ailred, 5 Cashels, Alexander 111, • 3,49 Catan, Alban, — when Scotland so called. . 1,28 Cattheruns, near Brechin, Andrew, St, . 35 Cellach, son of Aillel, Angus, Earl, Lord of Abernethy, 30 Celtic Island Missions, Angus or Hungus, King, • 36 Celtic Cross at Carpow, Annals of the Four .Masters, . 14 Ceolfrid, Aran more, 40 Chalmers, V. Macgregor, Arbroath Abbc\-, 3. 4. 30 Chambers, Robert, . Arculf, 40 Chambers, William, . .Ardmurc Round Tower, •3 Christ's Church, Dublin, Augustinians, 3 Chronological Table of Scottish Cilinc Droiteach, Bangor Monastery, . 6, 15- 19 Cill-ma-Neachtan, Barton-upon-Humber, 34 Cistercians, Bass, Isle of, . 49 Cloick Teach. . BecUct, Thomas a. 3 Cloyne Round Tower, Bede — Works, 1. 5. 35.40 Cluniacs, Bcll-Housc, . . . , 14 Coldingham, . Bcllenden, . . . , 3 Columba, Ben More, . . , . 8 Constantine III., King, Bernicia, . . . . «. 49. 50 Cork County, . Birsaj', Brough of, . ■ 22,23 Cormac's Chapel, Cashel, Bishop Robert, 23 Crannog at Ardmorc, Blane, St, . Cuilcan, Blanc's, St, .Abbej', 6, 7. 44. 45 Cuiritan, Bishop, Bocce, I lector. 30 Culdees, Boethius, . . . , 36 Cumbria, Scottish, Bnnifacius, . . . . . 21,46 1 Cuthbcrt, St, . Brandon's, St, Birnie, 45 Bra.sh, Mr, of Cork, . ■ 27,28 Dalmcny, Brechin, . . . , 3. iC, 29 ! Doorway restoration. „ Round Tower, 26 Dariada, „ .Section of Round Tower, . -'7 David, King, . Architecture Page 5 19,29 30 34 18 41 35 5 J7 6 18 29 5.49 19 31 35 37 39 15 68 29 21 3 14 14 3 50 18,19 3f3 14 34 >7 29 21 28,41 8 49 39.40 52 7 '.3.5.33 5,7.8 !^f^imM£mmiM^m. 64 INDEX. Pago Page Declan, St, Oratory of, . «3 Inchcolm, . . . . 49 Dec, ...... 5 Inchkeith, . . . . 49 Deer, Buchaii, ... 18 Inverness, Dun at, . If. 19.35 Deerncss, Dr Hibbert, 22, 24 j lona, . . . . . 7, 8, 9, 28, 49 " Deil's Cauldron," .... 6 , Ireland, Cloi.sters of South, . > " Dreamin' Tree," . . . . 6 ! Druidical College, lona, 7 J arrow, . . . . 21 Dryburgh Abbey, . . . . 53 Jedburgh Abbej', 2, 53. 58 Dryden, Sir Henry, . . . . 39 Duddingston Doonvay, 4 Kclls, Ireland, 29 Restoration, . 52 Kelly, Prof, of Maynooth, . 15 Dumbarton, . . . . . 5 Kelso Abbey,. 2.54 Dunblane, . . . . . 3.32 Kenneth II, . 29 Dundrennan Abbey. . . . . 56 Kentigern, St, . . . 8 Dunfermline, .... 3-56 I Kilchattan, . . . . 6 Dunkeld 3,49 1 Kildonan, 18 Dunnichen, .... 35 i Kilkenny, C. Caronig's, 52 Dunning, Tower of, 31 ' Kilrimont, 19.35 Durham Cathedral, . 2,35,41 ,42,5(5 Kinneigh, or Kinneth Tower, Kincardine, royal citj-. «4 «9 Earlsferry, .... 35 Kirkheugh, 36,37 Ebba 50 Kirkwall, St Magnus Cathedral 53 54,55 Ebrard, .... 31 Kno.v, 3.30 Edenshall. .... 52 Edgar, King, .... A2.S0 Lamington Doorway, 52 Edrom Doorway, 51 I-cgcrwood, Berwickshire, 4,45 Edward I., . 19. .30 Lennel Nunnery, 5' Egilsey, old church, . 23 Lcuchars, 3. 39. 47. 48 Eilean Mor, Knapdaie, 41 Levcn, Loch, . 3,?8,3'.4i Elgin, ..... 19,46 Lindisfarnc, . «, 35.49 Ely 41 Lomond Hills, 19 Ethclbcrt, King, 40 Macalpinc, Kenneth, . 29 Einan, or Einian, 5 Maclduin, Bishop, 35 Einclla, Lad)-, 2y Magnus, St, Egilsey, . 22 Erecman, I'rof, • 25,33 Magnus, Earl, 22 Eursa, St, County Ma\o, 40 Mailro.s, old, . Maitland, W., of Lcthington, 49 42 Galloway, William, . 45 Malcolm Canmore, -1 Gartnaidh, ... 19 Manor Church, 52 Gcraldus Cambrcnsis, 1 3, 15.17 Markinch, Tower of, . 31 Gertrude, St, N'ivcllcs, If) Margaret, St, Edinburgh Castle, 1, 50 Gem rode Towers, 16 Martin, Alexander de St, 42 Gobban .Saer, .... • 13.14 Martin's, St, Haddington, 42 Grampians, .... iS Martin on Si Rule, . 34 Grose, "Scottish .Antiquities," 20 Mary's, St, 1 l.icldington. 42 Gulanencss, .... 35 Mary, (Jueen, . May, Isle of, . ■ 42, 56 49 Haddington, V.nrh of. 41 Melrose Abbey, ■ 53,56 St Martin's, 42 Mcr.seburg, 16 St Mar>'s, 4-' Monkwcarmoiith, " ). 21,33 Hakon. I'.arl, . . , . . 22,24 Monymusk, . 45 1 Iclcns, St, .... 42 Mortlach, 18 Ilcwison, Kcv. Mr, . . 45 Moville, 5 Ilcxham, . . . ■ .1 .5.«.49 Muir, Mr, 39 Hilda, 50 Mull. Isle of, . 8 I INDEX. 65 Muthill, Tower of, Nectan, Nectansmere, . Newburn, Ninian, Norham Castle, Normans, Nunnery, lona. Orphir Circular Church, Oran, . Oran's, St, lona, Oswald, Oxnain, Roman Rampart, Palladius, Patras, Paul, Earl, 11, Peebles, St Andrew's of, Penda, King of Mercia, Peterhead, St Peter's, Picts, . Southern, Prior of Scone, Querqueville, near Cherbourg, Reformation, 1560, Regulus or Rule, St, . „ Tower of, Relaig Orain, . Rcstalrig, Rcstennet, Rievai, Yorkshire, Robb, Mr, of Haddington, Robert, Bishop, Rollo, . Rosemarky, . Rothesay, Round Tower of Durrow, rage Page 3t Round Towers, Irish, •3 Norfolk and Suffolk, '3 • 19,21 Persia and Hindostan, 17 20 Pisa and Ravenna, . 16 35 S 2,4 Roxburgh, Town of, . 2 St Andrews, .... • 3,31 ■ 44.45 St Baldred, Tynninghame, . 41 II St Patrick, • 5-44 St Peter, .... 35 23 St Servanus, ... 31, 4', 47 10 Staffa, .... 8 10 Stirling, .... 37 49 Stobo, .... ■ 3,39. 52 Stokes, Margaret, 40 Strasbourg Cathedral, 54 18 Strathclyde, Kingdom, 5 ■ 36 Stuart, Mount, 6 24 39 Tcrtullian, .... 19 50 Theodore, Archbishop, 40 . 46 Torphichen, .... 39 8, 28, 36 Towers, double, at St Gall, . 16 5 Trnmwin of Abercorn, 35 33 Turgot, .... • 35,37 Tynemouth, .... 50 53 Tynninghame, 41 3 Unst, Shetland, 22 33 Uphall 39 33 II Vikings, . . . 8,22 29, 3&, SO ■ 36 20 Wallace, Sir William, 30 ■ 56 Whithorn, .... 5 42 Wilfrid 35 3i William the Cor qucror. ■ 19.30 53 William the Lion, ■ 3.30 ■' '9 Wilson, Sir Daniel, . 25 • 5,44 15 York, . 2,8 ^.^^^S^ INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. Apse, Bunkle ; Arcade, Coldiiigham, Ardmore Tower, Irclaiid, Basle Cathedral, Capital in, . TitU Bedale, Yorkshire—/// Text, . Celtic Sculptures — Details, . Chancel Arch, St Blane's, and Legerwood Church, ..... Chancel Arch, Tynninghamc — /// Tcxl, Chancel Arches, Hirnic, Monyinusk, Leger- wood, ..... Choir, Bay of Jedburgh Abbey, Carved Stones, ..... Church of Gcrnroilc, llartz — /// Text, Coldingham, Interior—/// Text, Coldingham I'riorj-. .... Dahneny Church, .... Decorated Capital in Cathedral, lona — /// Text, .... Des Donis zu Mer.scburg — /// Text, . Details of .Vbernetliy and Brechin Towers, Details of Tynninghame, Doorway, Holyrocjd .Abbey, . St .M.ir>'s, Haddington, Drybiirgh Doorway, &c., Duddingston Dnorw.i)-, iHiX), Dundronn.in North Doorway, Dunfermline Nave, I'illars, &c.. West Doorway, Dunning Tower, . . . • I'.droni l,toorw;i\-, \'^(f\ Restored Details, ICgilsc)- Church, Orkney—/// Text, . Klevations of present Jedburgh North Door- way, Kelso North Doorwa>-, Norluun, Dundreinian, &c., Ground I'lan, Nunncr)-, lona—/// Text, (iround rian of Chancel and .\pse, I.euchar.s, — />/ Text, . . . . rnfie rage 4' Interior, Dalmeny Church — /// Text 40 13 lona Cathedral, St Oran's, General View of, 8 lona— Two plates, . . . . 12 ''age 30 Jedburgh .-\bbey Restored Doorways — South Doorwa)', 60 52 Details, 60 West Doorway, 60 44 Details,. 60 48 Kelso Abbey Restored Doorways — 45 North Tra' ept Doorway, 60 West Tr,. ept Doorway, 60 59 Kirkliston Restored Doorway, 58,07 <5 Kirkwall from the sea — /// Text. 5<5 51 50 39 10 16 :;8 4' 60 60 57 4 57 55 60 31 49 49 24 (ia 47 Kirkwall, St Magnus — North Transept, 53 Views of West, ICast, South-East, Aisle, Iiitcrior, &c., 53 Interior of Nave, .54 Details, . -55 Legerwood Church, Interior — //; Text, 3 Lcuchars, Lxtcrior, Chancel and Apse, 47 Interior, Chance! and Apse, both Restored, .48 Linton Church former Tympanum — /// Text, 60 Markinch Tower, . . -32 Muthill from South-east — /// Text, . . 32 .MutliiU Tower, '32 Norham Castle — /// Text, ... 4 Norman I)oorw.\\', Whithorn, 58 Details, Whithorn, 58 North Tr.insept, Cathedral, lona — /// Text, 9 Nunnery, lona, I'.irtly Restored, O.xnam, Roman Rampart — /// Text, Paisley Doorway, Resleiuiet, I'lviitis/'ieee 52 57 31 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. Restorations from Water Colour Copies of Dalmcny, Uudfiingston, Kdrom, Lam ington Churcii Doorway, Restored Doorway, St Orans, Round Tower, Abernctliy, Restored, Round Tower, Abernethy, 1896 — in Text, Round Tower and Churcli, Kgilscy, . Sectional Elevation, Round Tower, Hrechin — in Text, Small Windows, &c., lona — in Text, „ Brechin, Restoration, St Blane's, Rothesay, . St Martin's and St Mary's, Haddington, Interior, Haddington, St Peter's, Peterhead, Chancel and Tower, Pafic 3-\ 1 1 20 27 12 26 5 42 43 46 St Pierre, Lyons, Capitals, . St Rcgiilus Tower, Details, lower and upper plans, corbels, view of top entrance and adjacent cathedral ruins, masonry, &c , St Regulus Tower, South Elevation, „ Details, . Stobo Church, . . , Strasbourg Cathedral, .South Gable — in Text, Tower at Dietkirchcn, Coblentz — in Text, . Towers at Leuchars, Torphichen, Uphall, l''gilscy, St Andrew's, Peebles, . Tower Window, Coblentz — in Text, . Wroxham, Carr.ock, Lenncl, . ^7 roRc vi .V3 34 36 39 54 17 39 38 KIRKLISTON UUORWAV. mm^iA •i**s*.**#»*»'< 68 CHRONOLOGY OF SCOTTISH ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. Kings. A.D. Ei'ociiAi. Characters. Kings of Dalriada 397 St Patrick. and of North and to St Ninian. South Pictland. 842. St Catan. St Columba. St .\drian. St Aidan. St Wilfrid. St Cuthbert. St Ebba. Mectan. St Bonifacius. Earl Magnus. Kenneth Mac- 84.? Bcethius. alpine to to lohn of Forcdun. Malcolm 1067. (>ueen Margaret. Can more. Donald Bane. 1070 Turgot. Edgar, to Alexander I. I I 2.V David I. to 1134 1 William the Lion. to i Examples. SrvLEs. I a 14. Alexander II. and lll.to Robert III. 1214 to '395- James I. to Mary. 1424 to .Margaret of Norway, buried at Kirkwall. King Halcro, who died uf remorse from de- feat at Largs. Bishop Reid added three West Bays of Nave to Kirkwall Cathedral, 1 1540. Old Candida Casa, Whithorn ; St Blane's, Bute ; lona. Loch Leven, St Serf's. Isle of May, Chapel. Lindisfarne. [arrow and Hexham. Old Mailros. I'oldinghani. Beginnings of .\bernelhy and Restennet Towers. St M.ignus, Egilscy. Scottish Square and Round Towers. Inchcolm Abbey, Dunfermline Abbey Nave. Principal Scottish .\bbeys, as those figured in the plates, begun ; also such minor ("hurches as Dalmeny and Leuchars. Kirkwall Cathedral begun about 1138 ; pillars, 15 feet in rircuniference, built hy William I. .\rbroatli Abbey. Dunblane, Crypt and Choir. (;i.asgow. Elgin Cathedral. West Doorway, Kirkwall. Holyrood West Doorway. Coldingham. Lanark. Melrose Abbey. Part Dry burgh, Sweetheart .'\bbeys. Linlithgow. St ("'les', Edinburgh. Brechin Cathedal. Haddington Doorway. Kail of building activity in Interregnum. Robert the Bruce. B.attle of Bannockburn. Des- truction of Southern Abbeys by English In- vaders. Collegiate Churches of Trinity College, Edin- burgh. Melrose Abbey. St (iiles' and King's Col- lege 'Towers ; also Had- dington and Linlithgow — crowns at lop (lestro)cd. Roslyii. Other Countries. Celtic and Primitive Romanesque. Campaniles and Bell Towers of Lucca and Pisa. Early Romanesque of Rhine and France. Saxon, in England — Works of Ethelbert and Eadhelm. Whitby. Beginning of Durham. Towers at Barton-on- Humber. Norman to Transi- ' tion. First Pointed. Middle Pointed or Decorated Style. Durham Cathedral, part. Salisbury and Lincoln Cathedrals, England. St Denis, France. York Cathedral, West Front. Beverley Minster. 'Third or I«ate Pointed Style. East End of Cathedral. ^'ork Roslyn, Spanish Archi- tect. /:./i//*«',V* ' /'riii/f.i /'J' \)\v\\i M VI ipiiN.M 11, ; //„,