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Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmte d dea taux de rMuction diff^rents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film4 d partir de I'anglo sup^rieur gauche, de gauche A droita, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 700 ACRES 700 ACRES Transplanting Directions ISSUED BY Stone §; Wel'ington, J^nrserpen, NURSERIES, FONTHILL, WELLAND COUNTY, ONTARIO Head Off, jes, Toronto, Ont. Branches, Montreal, P.Q>, Hartford, Conn., Madison, Wis., and Victoria, B.C. LEAD! BSADI ZIXADI BBASI TRN PRESENTING these instructions to || our patrons, we would earnestly re- "' quest that chey give the most earnest attention to the details. They have been compiled with a view to make them as simple as possible, and hav- ing fulfilled our part of the contract, by delivering first-class stock in good condi- tion, also giving all necessary instructions how to care for it, if any of bur customers should lose a portion of their stock, the fault cannot be on our side. We allude to these, because years of experience have taught us that the public lose nursery stock because they neglect it; and we have tiiken the precaution to send a copy of our Transplanting Directions to every custom- er, so that none may claim that they do not know how to plant and care for their stock. Anything that has to be cultivated in the earth can no more live without nourishment and care than can a human being ! We guarantee to deliver the stock in Goou CONDITION, and could we plant and cave for it for the first three months, would willingly insui-e the fi-owth of every tree and shrub we send out. We seldom ever lose a plant, even when we import them from Europe, and grow them here during tlie svimmer for fall delivery, and the stock is out of the ground for many weeks PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. For fruit trees the condition of the soil must be such as •would be adapted to grow successfully farm crops. If the land on wliich you are to plant your trees is not in a condition to bear these exposures, you can make it so by thoroughly underdrain- ing, deep ploughing and sub-soiling. You may enrich it in the usual manner, by turning under clover, applying barn- yard manure, or where it can be obtained, vegetable mould or muck without stint. The last is well adapted for producing a large amount of fibrous roots and it is tlirough these that the i ree is fed. PREPARING THE TREES FOR PLANTING, The broken or mutilated portions of the roots must be cut off, so as to leave the ends smooth and sound, and the ends of all the other roots should be pruned. I'rom these ends the new fibrous roots usually start. PLANTING. The hole must be large enough to i-eceive the roots 'reely without cramping or bend- ing the? I from their natural position ; the larger the better. Let the tree be the same depth it stood in the nursery (the old mark can be readily discerned), and not deeper, except in cases of dwarf trees. These latter should be set so that the point of union should come two or three inches below the surface of the ground. The tree being held upright, the finest and best earth from the surface should be carefully worked among the roots with the fingers, filling every space and bringing every root in contact with it. Set the tree as FIUM AS A POST BUT LEAVE THE SURFACE FILLING LIGHT AND LOOSE. MULCHING. Tin's is done by placing a layer of coarse manure from three to six inches deep, ex- tending one or two feet further in. each di- rection than the roots. This protects the earth about the roots against drying or baking with wind and sun, retains to it the requisite moisture and obviates all oc- casion for a practice generally of injurious effect — the watering of newly-planted trees. PRUNING. The stem should now be put in condition for the formation of the top, by removing all the limbs to the print where it is de- sired to have the top ; then cut back each remaining limb, leaving from four to six buds of last season's growth, In the ab- sence of any limbs suitable to form a top, cut the tree down to the requisite height, leaving the dormant buds to make the top! So&'t allow tlie Eoots to Ije exposed to sxui and air. . STONE A\l) AVnM.IN-OTOX's DIKFCTION'S FPU TU.^NSP1, ANTING. The business of pruning vigorously atlcanker worms, grubs and borers, slugb time of setting is generally an ungrateful and aphis, disease and blight, must be one to the planter, as it injures for a 4ime the appearance of th e tree to an unprac - ticed eye. It should, however be unliesi- tatingly performed, all the branches to the extent of at least one-half the length of the previous year's growth being re- moved. Care shotild also be used to give the proper form to the tree. The head may be left high or low, as the taste of the planter may prefer, or as the nature of the tree in some cases may require. No stock planted in the fall should pruned till the hard frost has left in the spring, but before the sap starts. STAKING. If the trees are tall or in exposed situa tions, they should be supported by stakes to prevent injury from the action of the watched for, fought against, and remedies faithfully applied. The wants of the growing tree must be carefully foreseen, and a faithful effort made to insure health and productiveness. The requirements of priming vary some- what according to the kind of tree ; we prefer, however, low training for all trees, for dwarf trees very especially. The pruning should be done eacli year, so that no necessity may arise for cutting large limbs. Care must always be u.';ed to keep the head of the tree open and well-balanced cutting the limbs which may be super- fluous. Trees should be trimmed as oarly as pos- sible up to the height it is mtendod the future head should be, that the cuttitiLT off wind. Staking is done in the best manner ^i large limbs may not in future be necot:- by driving two strong stakes firmly into the ground, one on each side of the tree, about a foot distant from it, and fasten the trees between them with bands of straw, or other soft material, so that it may be kept in an upright position, with-j out chafing, till the roots obtain a firm hold upon the soil. PEACH TREES. They should be planted immediately on their delivery, or if not prepared to do so, the roots should be buried in the ground — they will not stand exposure to sun and air, and many are lost simply for want of care. As soon as planted cut back ail side branches to within two or three inches of the main stem. Make this the invariable sary. This should be avoided when pos- sible, as decay is liable to commence at point of separation, and extended into the trunk. When such removal is absolutely necessary, the wound should be carefully pared smooth, and a covering of paint or grafting wax applied to protect it from the action of the weather Dwarf trees, particularly of the pear and apple, while young, require more pruning than any other kind of tree, in o-der to bring the top to a suitable form. For the first two or three years after planting, fully one-half the growth of the previous year should be removed, by heading in or re- ducing the length of each limb. The top limbs require to be cut back more, the lower limbs less, thus producing a more practice, and never deviate from it if you^ „„, t- ^ ,:Vv,,<--^ * c„" o^,i ^T^^c^^..^-^*- wish to save your trees. The growth willj^^"^^ distribution of sap, and consequent be much more rapid and vigorous in con- sequence of this pruning, and by strictly adhering to it, or by immediate planting, or covering the roots in the soil, verx- few, ™™™ptriral sbnnfi and nrPvPnt navtic.ilar if any trees will be lost. Peaches ' b all fZi^,"!^^ r„™ .^^fi ^'^ „P^f A.!„_ ?5i: ^!^!^^ vigor to the lower limbs with the upper. After the tree has passed, sajr to the third or fourth year after planting, the require- ment of pruning is only to keep it in the other stock v^e deliver, will be in fiuo con- dition, having been carefully handled and kept from exposure by us. If you do not follow our directions, and meet with loss, the fault will be entirely with you. PERPETUAL CLEMATIS. The top of these plants die down every winter, and therefore needs no protection Plant in RICH soil, spreading the roots WELL apart, being very careful not to break them ; dig a large hole so as to af- ford them planty cf room. They need plenty of foci during summer to enable them to support and siipply a continued abundance of bloom. These plants will not ijroduce the best results the first sea son after transplanting. Cultivation after Planting A Training. Many cultivators, after taking great trouble and expense in the ^electing and planting of their trees, fail of success by neglecting that after-care and attention which is equally essential. Caterpillars and limbs from taking a disproportionate growth. Limbs so inclined must be head- ed back sufficiently, and all surfluous wood upon the tree kept promptly removed. Tnis regularly attended to, will obviate the occurrence of any necessity for ampu- tating large limbs. Those who are obliged to plant trees in fields of grass or grain, should see that all such are carefully mulched with coarse manure, and that the ground is kept loose and moist about the trees. A hoed crop is greatly preferable in such plantations for the first five years. After this time, standard apple, pear, cherry, and plum trees will grow and produce fairly in turf. The dwarf treeb and peaches should be well mulched every year with coarse man- ure, and the ground tlioroughly cultivated. SUIV1IVIER PINCHiNQ Tho?e who are impatient to see fruit upon their trees, as is often the case, par- ticularly with regard to trees tardy in coming into bearing, may expedite the & STONE AND WELLINGTON'S DIRECTIONS FOR TRANSPt ANTING. 9 fulnlment of their wishes by employing the process of summer pinching. In the month of July pinch oft the ends of the young shoots ; this retards for the time the flow of sap, and hastens the formation of fruit buds. ASPARAGUS. To prepare a bed, dig the ground deep, incorporating large quantities of well de- composed manure. Plant the roots about thrse inches deep in rows 18 inches apart, and one foot apart in rows. GRAPE VINES Require a dry, mellow, well drained soil, deeplj' worked, and well enriched, with a warm sunny exposure. In planii.^ give the roots plenty of room ; spread them out not nore than six inches under the surface and settle the soil firmly around them Soapsuds, sink water and urine are good fertilizers. Notning better than leaves and trimmings of vines buried around the roots. PRUNING.— The novice, before attempt ing to pi-une a vine, should bear in mind the following facts and principles: First. That, as a general rule, the fruit bearing canes of this year are grown from buds on last year's canes ; in other words, the wood of this year contains the buds which produce the fruitful canes of next year. Second. That the fruit buds differ from wood buds only because of better develop ment. Third. That a cluster is a fruitful ten- dril, and that the ordinary capacity of a fruitfuJ bud is to develop, on an average, two or three of these fruitful tendrils, or as ccmmonh' expressed, clusters of fruit. Fourth. That the tendency of the sap is to the extremity of the vine ; that the straighter the cane the more rapid the grov^th, and the strongest growth from a pruned cane will generally oe found near- est the end. Fifth. That it is an easy matter to over- tax a young vine by endeavoring to make it produce and ripen more fruit than it is capable of doing. A young vine cannot yield the crop that an older, matured vine can without injury; any more than a young boy or girl can do the work of an adult ; and it is as unreasonable to expect it in one case as in the other Vines, when set, should be cut back to within three or four buds of the root. In November, or early in the spring, before the sap starts, in open culture, they should be pruned liberally. In pruning rather lender vines, leave more wood than is needed, as some may be killed, and finish pruning in spring as soon as the leaves are nearly developed, when the life of vine uif.v be seen. In summer allow laterals and branches on which there is no fruit ; then there will be much foliage to absorb matter and prepare nutriment, and by checking the growtJi of wood, it will be appropriated to perfect the fruit. Do not pick off the foliage. The leaves, not the fruit should be exposed to the sun. We urge this point, as thousands mistake, and grapes are generally mismanaged. The two great errors are in neglecting to cut off useless wood in the fall or spring, and in depriving the plant of necessary foliage by close pruning in summer. To obviate over-bearing, reduce the vines by close pruning so as to prevent much fruit from setting. If too much sets, thin it in season, that the juices of the vines may not be wasted on what must be removed. The above represents a grape vine pruned and grown in the manner that will give the best results. BERRIES Should have a strong soil and be kept un- der constant cultivation. Mulching is of special value. Raspberries and Blackber- ries should have the old wood cut out each year, and new canes pinched off when 3 feet high. Strawberries should be mulched late in the fall, uncover crowns early in the spring, remove mulch after fruiting, and spade in light dressing of manure. If set for fruit, keep the runners off. CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES Need heavy mulching and pruning, so that new wood will have room to grow. ROSES Should be planted in a deep, rich, well- drained soil, so that the top roofs are not less than two inches below the surface and should be severely pruned every spring before the buds start, cutting back the last growth to three or four buds, ex- cept Climbing Roses, which may first be allowed to partly cover the space desired. Old decayed bi'anches si' uld never remain. Every autumn compo should be placed around the stem of the plants, and spaded into the ground the following spring. After planting, the earth should be dug up around them so as to form a small channel all around the bush ; pour into thejthis some liquid manure mixing the earth that has to be replaced in v/ith \t, <\ small good growth beyond the fruit, and aboutlquartity of liquid manure given to the midsummer pinch off the ends of the|bushes in the manner described twice a branches to check them and cut feeblejmonth, will encourage growth and blossom WKitaisawSSe? 8T0NB AND WELLINGTON'S DIRECTIONS FOR TRANSPLANTING. Remediet for Insect Enemies of the Rose. Rose Sljo— White HoUcbore powder, mixed in water and sprinkled on the bushes, one ounce to the gallon of water. This remedy also dest.-oys the currant worm. Rose Bug.— Hand picking is the only ef- fectual remedy. Aphis, or Green Fly.— Sprinkle bushes with Tobacco water. Mildew.— Apply sub uar or soot in the form of a dry powdor, havinfi; tirst wet ted the bushes so that it will adhere to them. For planting grap63. ber-ies. -vu va and gooseberries, use directions given for DISTANCES FOR PLANTINQ. standard Apples 3° f- apart each way Standard Pears and Cherries to" " " Duke and Morello Cherries ....i8" " " Plums, Apricots, Peaches i6 to 18 " " DwarfPears 10 to la " " Dwarf Apples, lo to 12 ' Grapes rows 10 to 16 f«:«.t apan 7 to i6 ft in rows. Currants and Gooseberries 3 io :. aj art. Raspberries and Blackberries. . . 3 to 4 by 5 to 7 apart Strawberries, for field culture 1 to I'-a by 3 I > .-jj*! '' Strawberries, for garden culture. .1 to 2 ft. apart. NUMBER OF TREES ON AN ACRE. 10 ft. apart each way 8 6 ; :: •■ 3 " 30 ft. apart each way. • 50 ^5 :: • ;; • 70 20 . 1:0 I8 " • 135 15 " ;■ • 2^5 X2 " . 300 • 435 . 6Bd .1210 • i?45 .4840 between. In this "way double crops may be obtained, giving an annual income of from $200 to lS(K) until the apple trees come into bearing; while the peaches, raspber- ries and blackberries will be benefited by the protection afforded by the apple trees. In places exposed to severe winds, it i3 sometimes advisable to plant a row of rapid-growing evergreens (pine or spruce, &c.), on the north and west sides having the trees from 5 to 15 feet apart. lu small gardens in tL^ suburbs of towns or cities, tjuite a number of trees may be planted by setting out a row a few feet from the fence having the row run all ".round th" n'ot. By planting from 8 to 12 feet apart they will do well, and can after- wards be thinned out if necessary. When in small gardens, a vacant space is wanted for vegetables, then only dwarf- growing trees, or peaches, nluns, pears, &c., should be planted on tne ^outh side. Berry bushes may be set out lext to the fences, and in the tree rows. D<33troying the Bark Louse. — This is a .=*m?.ll, soale-like, whitish, oval shaped in- sect about an eigth of an inch long, that is sometimes found on young fruit trees. A wash made by boiling tobacco stems in waiter, ai\d mixing with soft soap, will easily destroy them. A solution of soft 3oap, or potash, or wood ashes is also ef- fective. Destroying the Woolly Aphis. — This is a minute, white, downy insect, that forms in the branches, appearing like mildew. It is sometimes called the "American blight," but is much more easily controlled than the regular blight. A wash of whale- oil soap speedily destroys it. Fresh white \< ash, made of unslacked lime and one- ivjiirth sulphur, is another remedy. Some RULE. -Multiply the distance in feet between the rows by the distance the plants are apart in the rows and the product will be the number of .'■>quare f^et for each plant or hill ; which, divided into the number of feet in an acre (43,560), will give the number of plants or trees to the acre. Plans for Orchards or Fruit Gardens. An excellent plan for laying out orchards is to place the trees 35 or 40 feet apart each way, then in the anple rows, half way be- ^^^^^ half an ounce of carbolic acid is ad tween, plant a standard pear, laien cross- j^^^ rpj^^gg washes are also good for des- ways, half way between the apple, plant ^^.j^ ^^^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^f ^^^^^^ f.^^ ^ ^^^^^ a peach or dwarf gr^owmg tree. Opposite ^^ J^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^ common sul- the pear trees either a cherry, f^n^^e p^^^-ia s^^i^ ^ndoie thirAoi iii>mt oiwat- plum pear, or peach tree may bo planted. ^ ^ ^.^^ ^-^j^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ -^ ^1^^ The trees will then be either 17J or 20 feet^jj^^^^^^j ^^ ^^^ ^j^^ ^ ^^■^^^: ^^^ ^^ apart. If small fruits are also to be grown ^^ ^^. j^^j^ ^^. g^i hur solutions, then a row of raspberries or blackberries ' _ -J^.^ j r.i ^ t* i. can be planted in each tree row. and three' Resuscitating Trees and Plants.-If trees or four rows of sti-awberries in each space, or plants have become very dry or shriv- If preferred, one space might be given up eUed from long exposure or delays, then to raspberries, another to blackberries an- «ithei- b\"T them entirely in damp soil for other to strawberries, and another to cur- two or three days, or place them in water rants and gooseberries: or the last two |or from 12 to 21 hours. If received m a fruits, being longer lived, might be placed frozen state, no injury will be experienc- in the appll rows. By the time that the ed if placed unopened m a cellar, or else- apple will require most of the ground, theiwhere where they will be exposed to peach trees and dwarf trees, and also the neither cold nor heat, but allowed to thaw small fruit, will be through bearin,'.;, while.^ut gradually. the pear and cherry trees, being of uprightiSTONE & WELLINGTON, Nurserymen, TORONTO, growth, will seldom interfere. Branch Office, Montreal, JAS. W- BEALL, Manager. Another plan is to have a row plantedj P.S.-SALESMEN WANTED, To good witii peaches, peai-s or plums, or dwarf relialjle and successful L-.aiesmen, we can trees, naif way between each apple row,!give good salaries and commission, and and small fruits or vegetables in the spaces' permanent employment.