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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 1 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■«Wi^^"^ I WMmi^m^f^^r^^m mmt " «|| o , N ^y::::^ iT^-v > / r .C.,-/C O^ U " w * *'»'^>' To Apu ^-«--f uld not f court. g have tales. charges oo was is to- to his ed for r him, n most irser's nants, their this vould WPn to try me until our arrival in the Downs, so that I suffered no grievous uneasiness on that score, and indeed 1 have scarcely FufFered any uneasiness, as I knew the frivolousness of the charges. It is no small mark of the propriety and correctness of my conduct that the captain himself was obliged to confess that it had been good. Never were charges so groundless brought before a court, and it wa^ the evident opinion of every member and witness of the trial that the unfortunate captain was not in his right mind. I like a hot country, and would have had a very pleasant voyage but for the affair which I have mentioned. Your letter arrived the same day as my indictment, and tended not a little to enliven me. I would have written immediately, but did not wish to make you uneasy by mentioning tlie business until it was settled, and I could not well write without doing so. I hope my silence has not made you in the least uneasy. The officers having been acquitted, Captain P n was suspended and ordered for trial, which began on May 16, and though he was not dismissed the service, his command of the * Blossom ' ceased. On May 20, Mr. Richardson writes : ' The court- martial on the captain is just finished. He was tried for cruelty and oppression, unjust and un- officerlike conduct. The two former counts were not proved, and the two latter only in part, for which he was sentenced to be dismissed the ship. There is a very great difference between the trial of a captain and lieutenants, the court on the for- mer being composed of captains, who have a fellow- feeling for each other.' The officers expected ■s^ 28 LIFE OP SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1809 '1-1 that their commander would have been dismissed the service. Thus ended this disgraceful case of misrule. It shows how fraught with evil it is for a man who cannot govern his passions, and is weak enough to be led away by anyone so mean as to flatter him, to be placed in command of a ship. Eegarding Jonas Morris, the purser, Mr. Eichard- son wrote : * He perjured himself several times in the court, and will be turned out of the service in disgrace. If we chose to try him he would be put in the pillory, but such a wretch is beneath an honest man's notice. He has ruined himself, and is now, as vice always is when foiled, depressed to the lowest depths of meanness, and sits sighing in the gun-room in order to induce us to pity him, but does not dare to speak to us.' Shortly after the trials, Mr. Kichardson wrote : I have applied to Dr. Harness to appoint me to a frigate, but he will have some difficulty in doing it, the Board, as a rule, keeping surgeons in r]\ ops for two or three years after their first appointment. If I remain in the ' Blossom,' there will be a new captain, and a complete change among the other officers. I enjoyed excellent health all the time we were on the coast of Africa, and am now as well as ever I was in my life. I like the sea well enough, but do not wish to remain longer than to entitle me to some situation on shore, as sur- geon to a prison ship, an hospital, &c. That requires great interest, and cannot be obtained anyhow until after five or six years' service as surgeon. I tmmimmm 1809 CAPT. BEAUFORT JOINS THE * BLOSSOM.' 29 I 'e or On June 2, 1809, Captain (afterwards Sir Fran- cis) Beaufort joined the * Blossom,' which was again ordered on convoy service. The appearance and manner of the new commander, as well as the excellent character which he bore in the * Woolwich,' 44, which he had just left, made the joung surgeon feel assured that the voyage which was about to be made would be a pleasant one. He was right. Between Captain Beaufort and his officers perfect harmony reigned, and the friendship then formed remained unbroken to the close of the useful life of Sir Francis. Instead of discouraging the pur- suit of knowledge. Captain Beaufort allowed per- fect freedom of access to his excellent library — a privilege which proved of essential advantage to Mr. Richardson in pursuing his studies at this period, when cut off from many opportunities of improvement. ' I think we shall have a pleasant voyage,' he writes in June, ' as our new captain seems desirous to make all his officers comfortable, and is a very courteous sensible man.' Again, in July : ' Our purser is a gentleman, and Captain Beaufort is a very agreeable good man, who wishes to make everyone happy.' The ' Blossom ' was delayed some time by heavy gales. When these abated, she sailed with a transport laden with small-arms and ball-cart- ridges for Gijon, in the north of Spain, arriving there on June 25. Immediately after, she pro- ceeded to Ferrol and Corunna, bringing home, at 80 LIFE OP SIR JOHN EICHARDSON. 1809 the beginning of July, forty men, women and children, who had been taken by the French during Sir John Moore's rapid retreat, and afterwards left to wander about the country. The ];' tie sloop was now despatched to Quebec, the nay drawback to the pleasure of the voyage being that, hampoied with convoy, she could not give chase to the French vessels which were seen at a di'^iiro. . In November, they were again in England. On retu/niixj from this voyage he wrote to his fat)^er : — We met with noth-ngi., "sting to you on our way out, as far as the Bank of Newfoundland, on which we arrived the 15th of August. In five days we crossed it and the small Bank, and got into the Gulf of St. Laurence. Thick fogs hang almost continually over the Banks of Newfound- land, the Gulf of St. Laurence, and parts in the neigh- bourhood, but luckily we had good, and frequently clear, weather. The gulf and mouth of the St. Laurence abound in mackerel, and it is pleasant amusement fishing for them, as all that is necessary, when the ship is going three or four miles an hour, is to fasten a piece of red cloth, or (what is better) fish-skin, to the hook, and allow it to drag along the surface of the water, the fish biting with great eagerness. We saw several vessels belonging to the United States fish- ing for cod in the gulf. The fish which they take are smaller but firmer and better flavoured than those caught on the Great Bank. They are permitted by treaty to fish in the gulf, though possessing no territory on its borders. 1809 1809 THE GULF OP ST. LAURENCE. 31 and Great numbers of large whales frequent these waters, and ollen came close to the ship. On the 25th we cleared the gulf, and entered the St. Laurence. The island of Anticosti lies in the muuth of the river, dividing its entrance into two passages, the north and south. The island is very often involved in thick i'ogs, and is inhabited only by one family, maintained at the expense of the government of Quebec, to assist the crews of ships which are frequently wrecked here. It is low and rocky, covered with trees, and abounds in bears and wolves. We entered the river by the South Passage, and kept along that shore which showed no signs of cultivation for 180 miles. On the north, or Labrador side, the lowest cultivated spot is 270 miles from the river's mouth. Where the banks are under culture they look extremely well. The houses are built of wood, painted white, and roofed with thin cedar boards or shingles, which when painted blue are exactly like slates. From the manner in which the land is sold, the houses are all built close to the river, and at nearly equal distances, seldom more than an acre apart, so that they look like one continued street. At Goose Island, twenty miles below Quebec, though the river is twelve miles broad, it is quite fresh at high water. At Quebec it suddenly narrows to a little more than a mile across. The British troops composing the expedition to theislandofWalcheren, at the mouth of the Scheldt, having been attacked by ague, terminating in a low nervous or putrid fever, and later by inflam- mation of the lungs, were about to be withdrawn from that place ; and he writes : — The aifairs of the nation at present wear a very gloomy aspect. Buonaparte carries all before him on the continent. 32 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1809 He has a large fleet in the Mediterranean. I hope they will be induced to venture to sea, and fall in with one of our fleets, which is equivalent to being defeated. This would serve to raise our drooping spirits. You on shore can scarcely conceive the anxiety with which we waited, on seeing a strange sail, to obtain news from England, always expecting to hear something great from the Expedition. Alas 1 how miserable the disappointment ! Here is a picture of life on board : — You wish to know how I spend my time ; and as there is a great deal of sameness in all iny days, it will be easily done. At present I seldom get up before seven, in sum- mer earlier, but whether sooner or later my time until eight is generally spent on deck. I breakfast at eight, visit the sick at nine, which with writing a list for the captain, ssom " I shall atment sailors, were killed ; a master's mate, and eight others wounded. The privateer was boarded by only twenty- three men, who carried her, though the crew numbered fifty-six. His exchange into the * Bombay ' spared the young surgeon this sad sight. ►raltar, , with i way, onvoy. r with jckers, inorca. >r the to the a with ceived izes of ^ four while b lieu- 3f the 36 LIFE OP 8IR JOHN EICHARD80N. 1811 CHAPTER IV. ;( u SUIKJEON OF THE ' IlOMBAY ' — BLOCKADE OF TOULON — RETURNS TO ENGLAND. 1810-1812. When the winter of 1810-11 was passed, the monotony of Port Mahon was varied by a fruitless run after two French line-of-battle ships which had got out of Toulon. The * Bombay ' went in search as far as Sicily, and on its return touched at Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia. During the following summer, the excitement of a chase was frequently enjoyed. In May, the * Bombay ' pursued two frigates, which were rapidly being gained upon, when night fell and they escaped — all hopes of prize-money vanishing with the dawn of day. * However, I do not regret it,' the surgeon writes, ' as we did all we could. We next touched at Algiers, and learned that the French frigates had landed a consul there two days before. A brig, which left Toulon in company with them, laden with presents for the Dey of Algiers, has already been destroyed by one of our cruisers.' On the 16th of July, they are off Toulon, and he 1811 OFF TOULON. 37 -RETURNS ed, the puitless which ^ent in )uched ig the se was irsued upon, 3es of day. Tites, ed at i had brig, faden eadjr dhe writes : — * The French, after several unsuccessful attempts, have at length taken Tarragona by storm, and their barbarity exceeded everything I ever heard of. The women and children were seen from our ships, stationed there, leaping from the walls, pursued by the inhuman soldiers with the bayonet. None escaped but those who were able to conceal themselves till the next day.' Thus Tarragona suffered for the brave resistance which it offered to the French army. While the hostile fleet remained shut up in Tou- lon, the blockading ships giving -base whenever an easterly wind gave the Frenchmen an oppor- tunity of getting out with safety for exercise, a letter to his brother Peter (who occupied a farm in Galloway) gives us an inbigbt into his dreams of the future. I never trouble myself with unavailing regrets, and if at any time I do bestow a thought on the subject, it is gene- rally soon dismissed by a predestinarian saying, ' it was decreed so,' or ' c'est la fortune de la guerre.' Though, from the size of the ' Bombay,' I have every convenience which a life at sea affords, yet my haj piness is merely of the negative kind. In all my reveries, waking dreams, or whatever name you give them, a retired life in the country, somewhere in the neighbourhood of my native town, stands foremost in the pictures which I form to myself of the fu- ture. I often fancy the happiness which a man must enjoy, living in the midst of his friends and possessed of a compe- tency. These however are only dreams, never to be realised unless the * lift should fa',' or what is just as likely, it should 38 LIFE OP SIR JOHN EICHAEDSON. 1811 ! please that disturber of nations, Buonaparte, to grant us an honourable peace. Then, upon my half-pay, I might live comfortably. Sir C. Cotton, our present commander-in-chief, goes home soon, as he is to be superseded by Sir Edward Pellew. There will also be some changes among the junior admirals. We are at present in the fleet off Toulon, and likely to re-^ main all the summer. Next winter we shall return to Port Mahon, and after another summer spent here, we expect to go home. Then, and 1 look forward to the time with im- j)atience, there may be a chance of paying you another visit. I hope you will have your house in better order j than when I saw you last. Perhaps there will be some one to look after it. My cabin is twenty-one feet long and seven broad. I have spent all my spare cash in adorning it. In that small space, I have contrived to stuff a sofa, a dressing-table, a chest of drawers, and book-case containing upwards of a hundred volumes ; besides, by means of a curtain, it is divided into two apartments, a dressing-room and a sitting-room. After a short visit to Port Mahon and Majorca, with its pleasant mountains and valleys, the ' Bom- bay' returned to the station off Toulon. In No- vember, he again wrote to his brother : — It gives me pleasure to learn that your agricultural pur- suits occupy so much of your time, as by an unremitted attention to them you will not only benefit yourself in a pecuniary way but also materially increase your happiness. A farmer possesses many advantages almost peculiar to his i li employment. The very exercise which is necessary for the proper superintendence of his afiairs, preserves his health 1811 AT MINORCA. J5f) ant us an light live lief, goes 1 Pellew. idmirals. ly to re- 1 to Port Jxpect to with im- another er order lome one oad. I at small -table, a rds of a in, it is and a ijorca, 'Bom- ^n No- al pur- miitted If in a •pintss. ' to his for the health and keeps up a flow of spirits which sweetens all the events of life. Every day points out to his observing eye some progress which the plants are making. Nothing stands still, everything is changing. On the other hand, with me, the sun makes his diurnal revolution and sots in his western wave, without producing anything new, and returning in the morning he only serves to show the siime dull succes- sion of objects. -} c } ^ We have been constantly at sea, except one week spent at Mahon refitting, and have been trying for three weeks past to get off Toulon, but have been prevented by strong northerly winds, and at last obliged to take shelter under the island of Minorca, where we are at present. We are, however, getting under-way to go to Palma Bay, in Sar- dinia, for water. I think we shall continue at sea for the remainder of the winter, as our present commander-in-chief seems to have a great antipathy to being in harbour. The French fleet nearly captured the ' Perleu ' and * Volontaire ' frigates a few days ago ; a line-of- battle ship and two frigates having engaged the former ship in a running fight four hours, half-an-hour of that time within musket-shot. Our frigate disabled the line-of-battle ship and effected her escape in a very gallant manner. I had the pleasure, a few weeks ago, of meeting my old schoolfellow, Mr. McGhie. lie is at present hospit:il mate in a temporary hospital established at Mahon. You may easily conceive the pleasure our meeting gave me when I tell you that he was the most intimate of my acquaintances in Dumfries. The Spaniards, notwithstanding their late discomfitures, are making head again in Catalonia, Although the French have got all the strongholds, the peasantry are in such force { 40 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1811 if that they cannot get provisions into Barcelona except by sea, and our vessels render that difficult also. Captain Cuming, our late commander, was invalided some time ago and we have got Captain Norborne Thomp- son in his stead. We have all great reason to be pleased with the exchange. Not that I have any cause to complain of Captain Cuming, for he and I agreed very well, but it was not so with the other officers, and it is unpleasant to be in a ship where everyone is not comfortable. Captain Thompson is one of the pleasantest and most gentlemanly officers in the service, and uses his utmost endeavours to make his officers happy. The long-continued cruise bpfore the harbour of Toulon, where the ITrench fleet was nestled, became very irksome, and when the boisterous weather set in, the young surgeon hoped that it would freshen into a gale and send them to Mahon, where the winters were always mild. Before Christmas came, the ' Bombay ' was at Minorca, and he wrote with the prayer for many happy returns of the season to all the loved ones in Scotland. A walking excursion through the island, made during the winter, af- forded him much pleasure and amusement. No- where was anything worthy of the name of plough- ing in use — a man poking between the rocks with a crooked piece of wood being the only apology for it. The officers of the * Bombay' maintained the strictest regularity in their mode of living — a habit which the surgeon maintained through life. 1811 ccept by nvalided Thomp- } pleased Jomplain I, but it lasant to Captain ilemanlj /OUTS to bour of )ecame her set resheii ire the came, e with son to ursion er, af- No- ough- i with >ologY i the habit 1812 Our AT PORT MAHON. liar (f»ays he), if not 41 mess IS as regular (^f»ays nc^, it not more so, as any in the fleet. It costs about fourteen dollars a month, which at present rate of exchange is 50/. per annum. We live well, but drink only Mahon wine, which is similar to good claret, but not so strong and costs from sixpence to a shil- ling the bottle. We have an allowance of a pint after dinner, which is never exceeded except when strangers are on board, and then only in a slight degree. I believe no peopln indulge less in wine than officers of the navy, and, on board ship, they must be careful from a regard to their character and situation, drunkenness never being pardoned at sea. The long-continued active service at last told on his health. The leave of absence, which, during the heat of the war, could not be granted to any one able for duty, became a necessity. In the summer of 1812, he hastened to the home of his childhood, and enjoyed for a few weeks the loved society of the fam^iy circle at Nith Place, from time to time paying visits to his brother, Mr. Peter Richardson, at Disdow, and sharing in the genial hospitalities of the kind people of Gatehouse. This, however, was an opportunity for study which had long been wished for, and must not be neglected. He set out for London, and writing to his father, says : ' I have laid out 20^. in taking perpetual tickets for surgical and anatomical lectures, so that, in the event of my being in London for a week or two at any future period, I can attend them free of expense. I have very good lodgings, 42 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1812 and only require to go through one street to reach the lecture-rooms.' This quiet season of study was succeeded by one of active duty at sea, a warrant appointing him surgeon of His Majesty's sloop ' Cruiser,' then lying at Sheerness, being issued by the Transport Board, on December 5, 1812. 1812 bo reach i by one ng him ,' then a-n sport 1812 IN THE ' CRUISER.' 43 CHAPTER V. SURGEON OF THE * CRUISER ' IN THE BALTIC — AT SHEERNESS IN THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND THE ' CRUISER ' PAID OFF — STUDY IN LO DON — APPOINTED SURGEON TO THE IST BAT- TALION OF ROYAL MARINES. 1812-1814. ' The weather is unusually cold,' he wrote from Sheerness in December, * and I think Boney must find his quarters very disagreeable, if the winter has set in as keenly in Kussia and Poland as it has done here.' Two days after these words were penned, Napoleon entered Paris alone, and the news flew through Europe that the Russian winter had been destructive as well as disagreeable — that the Grand Army was no more. The appointment to the ' Cruiser ' was a fortu- nate one. The officers were pleasant companions, and though anxious to enjoy the comforts and opportunities for study which a life on shore would afford, he requested his father not to be in a hurry in applying to Captain Hope, the more so as it was understood to be the rule to give these situations to surgeons who had been ten years in the service. i 'wi 44 LITE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1813 {K v< (I Towards the eiyi of February, the weather, which had been, boisterous, moderated, and the ' Cruiser ' sailed from the Nore to join the Baltic fleet, which it succeeded in doing at Wingo Sound, after a fair run across the North Sea. Here were the ' Courageux,' ' Daphne,' * Zealous,' * Ulysses,' and several brigs. Admiral Morris, the Com- mander-in-Chief, having his flag in the 'Vigo.' The * Cruiser' was ordered to get ready to sail, as soon as the wind was favourable, for the Scaw or Cape Skagen, the extreme northern point of Den- mark, a station which her officers considered to be one of the best for taking prizes, unless the fates were unpropitious. While waiting for a fair wind he visited one of the islands which form Wingo Sound, of which he says : — It is named Brauno, and consists principally of barren rocks. There is one village on it of about 120 families. The houses are small, consisting of one room and a porch, or at most two. They are built of logs, dovetailed into each other at the corners, and the interstices filled with moss. The roofs are of thin deals covered with turf. It is a poor place, and the inhabitants subsist chiefly by fish- ing. In front of the village lies a patch of arable land, which is ploughed at present, but there is not the least ap- pearance of vegetation to be seen anywhere ; and I am told that the ground will continue in this apparently barren state until the end of April, when all at once the spring becomes general and advances much more rapidly than in Scotland. The 'Cruiser's' active operations, oflF Cape 1813 1813 WINGO 90UND. 45 Skagen, were speedily brought to a close. Having taken four Danish vessels, she bore up for Wingo Sound on March 19, but was forced to run for shelter to the coast of Sweden : — We put to sea several times (Mr, Richardson wrftes), but were always obliged to make for one or other of the ports which abound on that coast, and lastly entered Salo Sound, on the 27th. During the night of April 1, it coming on to blow hard, we drove from our anchorage and grounded on a reef of rocks, where we remained twenty-eight hours. The guns and shot were got out, and everything possible done to lighten the ship, and then by heaving cables, made fast to anchors laid out ahead, we got her off with the loss of the rudder and false keel. Our people worked inces- santly for forty hours, got the guns and shot in again and hung the rudder, so that she was ready for sea the next day. I do not think our bottom is injured, as we do not leak, but it will be necessary to go into dock to get a new false keel and rudder. I am afraid that should the damages be greater than we expect, the ' Cruiser ' will be paid off, an event which I do not wish to happen, as I could not en- joy more comfort, the utmost harmony subsisting between the captain and officers. However, if Captain Toker be promoted, she will probably be paid off, having run for fifteen or sixteen years without having been thoroughly repaired. In that case I shall renew my studies in Lon- don, which can be done with little additional expense, having made myself a perpetual pupil. I am uncertain when we shall be ordered home, but will remain at anchor here as a kind of guard-ship till that time. This harbour is crowded with vessels, there being upwards of 500 sail of merchantmen waiting for a fair wind, besides a good many men-of-war. 46 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1813 <^, I- While l}'ing in Wingo Sound, he observed the peculiarity of climate referred to when describing the island of Brauno. At the end of April the riggin[i^ of the ship was covered with ice, and before the middle of May vegetation was rapidly advancing. Early in June the * Cruiser ' reached Sheerness, and was docked for repairs : — I once thought (he wrote) of applying for leave and going down to Scotland, or remaining in London to attend lectures while the * Cruiser ' is in harbour, biit have given up the idea, for the present, chiefly from motives of economy. We have been so much in port lately that our expenses have been nearly double what they would have been had we remained at sea. I shall, however, do pretty well at the end of the year, as I am then entitled to an in- crease of pay, and should the ' Cruiser ' be paid off after that, I shall be a little more my own master. Her repairs completed, the * Cruiser' was placed under the orders of Admiral Otway, and sailed to the north of Scotland, to look out for privateers, which had appeared among the Shetland Islands. In July she arrived at Long Hope, about seventeen miles from Kirkwall, where a large fleet of mer- chantmen, under the charge of two brigs, was lying at anchor and in great fear of the redoubted American privateer. Commodore Rogers, who was reported to be in those seas. There is no thought of the little * Cruiser ' attempting to fight the enemy — the odds were too great ; but her officers were anxious to get a sight of him, and felt pretty 1813 1813 THE * CRUISER ' SPRINGS A LEAK. 47 and certain that lie could not catch them if they wished to run. Several weeks were spent among the Orkneys, on which was seen growing here and there * a birch, scarcely big enough to make a broom.' Meanwhile the * Alexandria' and a sloop of war have chased Commodore Rogers as far north as the seventy-fourth parallel of latitude, and the ' Cruiser ' has little to do but roam among the islands. Towards the end of August she sailed with despatches for Admiral Lord Amelius Beauclerk, whose flag-ship, the * Royal Oak,' was supposed to be cruising between Iceland and the Lewis. The weather was stormy, and, on September 7, during a heavy gale, the ' Cruiser ' sprung a leak, which floated the powder magazine. This accident made them bear up for Leith, but the wind fouling again on the 9th, she was nm into Long Hope, to wait for a favourable change. Here it was ascer- tained that the extent and position of the leak would make it necessary for her to be docked in order to be repaired, and the 'Cruiser' was accordingly ordered to Sheemess. * I am sorry,' Mr. Richardson wrote, ' that the accident has hap- pened at this time, for it is not convenient to be so much in harbour, especially after an unsuccessful cruise. The four vessels we detained in the Baltic have been liberated, contrary to our expectation — I suppose from political motives.' The voyages of the ' Cruiser,' in 181,3, had been T 48 LIFE OP 3IR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1813 '.1 i I unfortunate, and tended to deepen his dislike for the sea and intensify the longing for a home on shore, where he could gather his books around him. Dr. Shortridge, of Dumfries, had been thinking of giving up practice, and Mr. Richardson, who had been urged to succeed him, writes : — I am sorry that the appearances of peace have vanished, as my half-pay is now six shillings a day, and I should like to retire, but I think that too much to throw away without better prospects than even full practice at Dumfries holds forth, and I could not expect constant employment until after the lapse of several years. However, as a life at sea becomes daily less and less to my taste, I beliei'e that, in a year or two, I shall be induced to quit it, even though I do sacrifice my half-pay. If, however, there were a fair prospect of becoming surgeon to a Marine Division, Naval Hospital, ot Dockyard, I do not think that four or five years longer would be ill spent in serving for it. I have determined, at all events, to remain in the * Cruiser,' as it is probable she w^ill be paid off, when I may have an op- portunity of a season in Edinburgh on half-pay. This would be of much advantage to me, and what I wish before entering into private practice. * The ' Cruiser ' was put out of commission at Sheerness on November 27, and Mr. Richardson settled down to his studies in London, while waiting for another ship. ' 1 am making the most of my time,' he writes, * by attending lectures here, and have no idea of leaving the service at present, as it is possible that a general peace may take place soon, and if I get employed again before that 1813 1813-14 IN LONDON. 49 event, mj half-pay will be no contemptible addition to my income, should I begin to practise on shore.' The winter of 1813-14 was one of those pleasant seasons of quiet study, intermingled with the amenities of family life, which he so much enjoyed. Innocent recreations and the sight of smiling faces were all the more keenly relished from his being a hard-working student. Though busy with his books, he, nevertheless, found time to join the circle of friends of the family with whom he lodged, and danced as heartily as his young sisters at Dumfries. Several causes united in inducing him to retain his position as surgeon in the Royal Navy. The absence of any love for a life at sea would have led a man of less firmness of purpose and fore- thought to retire, probably to repent the step after- wards when struggling hard to gain the means of living from a country practice. It was to be ex- pected that one so young and youthful in appear- ance would only succeed by degrees in gaining the confidence of the public in a town where he would have to compete ^vith able surgeons of long expe- rience and established character. It was also his fixed resolve, once more to attend his Alma Mater in Edinburgh, and obtain a physician's diploma before settling down permanently as a medical practitioner: while by continuing in the service till the restoration of peace, his half-pay would be secured ; and if war continued, there was the pro- T 50 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1S13 spect of being appointed surgeon to an hospital, dockyard, or division of marines. He was, there- fore, content to bide his time, and the reward came, sooner than was expected, to the patient waiter and conscientious worker. In February 1814, having finished his course of lectures, he was anxious to obtain employment. Receiving a hint from one of the clerks at the Transport Board that there might be some delay, unless a way of stimulating them was found, he wi'ote for leave to go to Scotland, if it was not their intention to grant him an immediate appointment, as the expense of living respectably in London exceeded his half-pay. This was an honest, manly way of moving the Board, and, to the honour of the members, the appeal was at once responded to. The letter was written on February 9, and, on the 12th he was appointed surgeon to the 1st battalion of Royal Marines, then serving in North America. * I am pleased with the appointment,' were his words, * as there is a chance of its leading to a permanent situation as surgeon of a marine corps.' This anticipation was correct. The turning- i>oif>-t of his course of life had come, and with the i^ ug off of the ' Cruiser,' his life at sea, except as a passenger, may be said to have ended. t H13 1614 SAILS FOR AMERICA. 51 lospital, , there- d came, waiter )urse of >yment. at the J delay, ind, he )t their itment, jondon ng the rs, the er was tie was Royal ?re his g to a 3orps.' ixti a i CHAPTER VI. SAILS FOK AMEIMCA BERMUDA CANADA — HALIFAX — COAST OF OEOliGIA — CUMBERLAND ISLAND RETURNS TO ENGLAND. 1814-1815. With his usual promptitude, Mr. Richardson set out for Portsmouth to hold himself in readiness to sail for Canada. Here a considerable delay occurred ; but a battalion of marines, just re- turned from Holland, being under orders to pro- ceed to the Bermudas, he was aj)pointed by the Admiralty to do duty on the voyage out. This secured the advantage of being at once placed on full pay, and receiving the allowances attached to his position. After a tedious voyage, he reached the Ber- mudas towards the end of May, and having taken a passage on board the * Lord Collingwood ' trans- port ship, sailed for Halifax. On June 3, he wrote, giving an account of the Bermudas : — They are a range of islands extending from east to west abo twenty miles, but their greatest breadth does not ex- ce . wo. The largest island in the group is called by the ini. bitants the ' continent' and is about twelve miles long. £ 2 ■T 52 LIFE OP SIR JOHN EICHAEDSON. 1814 There are vseveral others from three to four miles in extent upon one of which stands the town of St. George. This is the capital, and indeed the only town, if a straggling row of houses and stores, running along the harbour, can deserve that name. Besides these, which may be termed the prin- cipal islands, there are many others much smaller, having one or two houses on each. The surface is very rocky and uneven, there being many deep valleys and swamps ; but the hills, though steep, do not rise much above the level of the sea, so that the islands cannot be seen at a greater distance than four or five leagues. Their shores are beset with innumerable rocks to the dis- tance of ten or twelve miles on every side, except the south- west, which is the only one on which they can be ap- proached. Very little of the country is cultivated. Part of it is covered with cedar trees, but the greater number of the hills produce only wild snge, without the smallest ap pearance of grass in the summer, though I have heard that a little springs up during the winter. The cedar trees were formerly much more numerous, and they built with them many small schooners for sale, but the demand has been so great that few trees are to be met with of a suflicient size. The soil on the hills is light and sandy, and does not appear to be capable of much improvement 5 but some of the valleys are very rich and might bo made to produce anything if the laziness of the inhabitants did not prevent their culti- vation. The climate is warm enough to ripen the finest Iruits in the world, but the idleness of the people can only be equalled by their rapacity. The houses are built of soft stone, which is to be pro- cured in great abundance, but very little attention is paid to neatness in architecture and still less to comfort. Even in the very best houses few ol" the rooms have ceilings. 1814 1814 AT MONTREAL. 53 in extent inis IS ng row of n deserve the prin- r, having ng many Bteep, do e islands leagues. the dis- le south - I be ap- d. Part imber of Heat ap ?ard that 'ees were ith them been so ent size, t appear 3 valleys ^tiling if ir culti- e finest ;an only be pro- is paid Even seilings. Their dining-rooms look like barns and are little better furnished. A few chairs, a table, and an old cedar chest, make up, in general, the whole amount of furniture. On June 6, the ' Lord CoUingwood ' reached Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, and Mr. Rich- ardson landed to wait for an opportunity of pro- ceeding to Quebec. In a letter from Quebec, dated September 5, 1814, he gives an account of his movements during June, July, and August. In June, I went to Montreal by the steamboat in order to join the first battalion. On arriving there I had the mortification to learn that the greater part of it had been drafted for the naval service on the lakes, and that the stafl'', with a few non-com missioned ofificers and privates, amount- ing in all to one hundred, had received oiders to go to Halifax, for the purpose, it was said, of forming a new bat- talion from a detachment of marines which liud arrived from England. It vexed me a good deal to see so fine a battalion broken up, as they were universally considered here to be the most excellent body of men in tlie country and exceedingly well disciplined, having been five years embodied under the command of Colonel Williams. They are much in Avant of medical men ibr the ships on the lakes, in consequence of which I was ordered up there, but after some little trouble I got the onler cancelled, and was allowed to proceed with the rest of the staff of the battalion. I joined them at St. John's, on the Richelieu, a river which flows from Lake Champlain into the St. Lau- rence, and marched with them to Chambley, where we em- barked in the steamboat for Quebec. AVe had remarkably fine weather during our march, which lasted four days, and ^>I?^^3? !99irVY'!!nPBn'^n9*>^«V"HiPPi*aP^Vf«>" ^m^-^m^mmmmmmt LIFE OF SIR JOHN EICHARDSON. 1814 he country through which we passed was delightful. Our route lay along the banks of the Richelieu, which is about four times the size of the Nith, when largest, but frequently subdivided into several streams by its numerous islands, which, from the quantity of fine wood on them, have the most picturesque appearance. The farm-houses along the banks are so thickly situated as to look like a continued village, and the tin-covered spires of the neat Roman Catholic churches, peeping through the trees, added greatly to the effect of the scene. All the churches and a great many houses in this country are covered with tin. It forms a durable roof and has a fine appearance, particularly by moonlight. We expect to sail for Haliftix in ten days or a fortnight, and shall most likely remain there during the winter, as the season for operations on the coast of the United States must be over long before we can reach it.' The}^ aiTived at Halifax, October 28, after a voy- age of three weeks, from Quebec, and were to sail, ' in the course of a few days for Bermuda, to join Sir Alexander Cochrane.' Our ultimate destination, he wrote, will most likely be the coast of America, but active operations will not be recommenced until the forces expected under Lord Hill will be ready to co-operate. The Americans make great exertions. The late attack on their capital seems to have united all the different par- ties in one cause, and any force we can land on their coast will not be alile to retain possession of it for any length of time. We may, indeed, carry on that predatory system of ^mm ««ip 1814 1815 WAE WITH AMERICA. 5o rtnight, as the States Avarfare which serves to degrade the British character with out materially injuring the enemy. In the late attack on Washington, our troops destroyed the few works of art which were found there, and were barbarous enough to burn the public library, so that our conduct will not bear to be compared with that of the hali- civilised Russians, who, with infinitely greater provocation, respected the monuments of learning and of tlie arts, during their progress through France. At present the Americans have only a small number of regulars, who are badly disciplined and ill-paid. They have, however, a numerous militia, who are good light troops, particularly adapted for bush-fighting ; and if the war continue, will no doubt become excellent soldiers. There is no want of bravery among them. In January 1815, an expedition, of which the 1st battalion of Eoyal Marines formed a pai*t, ar- rived off the coast of Georgia, and sailing south- ward from Savannah, took and plundered the little town of St. Mary's, which was then abandoned, and Cumberland Island taken possession of. The manner in which the expeditionary troops treated the property of non-combatants was most discredit- able, and viewed with disgust by ^Ir. Richardson, whose sensitiveness regarding the honour of the British name was only surpassed by his humanity. On February 7, 1815, he wrote from Cumber- land Island, describing the position of the British forces and the sufferings of the natives. I mentioned to you the capture of tlie town of St. ■tr f; wtmmmmm fsm I !! V Ih! 5e LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1815 Mary's. We evacuated that unfortunate little place after plundering it of almost everything of value, and are at j)resent encamped on Cumberland Island, occupied in con- structing entrenchments and raising forts, so that it is likely we shall make a long stay upon it. This island is low and sandy, similar to the whole of Georgia, for many miles back, and is frequently intersected with marshes. As only a small portion of it has been cleared, the greatest part of the island is covered with forests which are difficult to penetrate from the thickness of the underwood. It is about twenty miles long and scarcely anywhere more than two broad, and is of no value to us except from the facilities which it affords of cutting oif the trade of the Americans to Amelia, thus shutting up the principal outlet for their cotton. On this account, I suppose, we shall hold it during the remainder of the war. A small expedition has been sent from this for the pur- pose of collecting all the tobacco and cotton on several islnnds a little to the northward. I do not know upon what principle we deprive the unresisting inhabitants of their property, but so it is that everything under the denomina- tion of merchandise is taken for the general account, and the greatest part of what remains is seized by private plun- derers. At tirst this system was confined to houses which had been deserted by the owners, but that has given the most of the men such a taste for it, that few escape. Those who come last and find everythi ^ carried off by their pre- decessors generally break the windows. From what I have already seen of this mode of warfare I do not think the American accounts are much exaggerated. We have met with a severe check at New Orleans and lost many men, both by the fire of the enemy and tiie a I 181i 1$]5 CUMBERLAND ISLAND. 57 severity of the season. Tlie cold is so intense at times there that many of the men have been frost-bitten, and even here, -where there is no severe service, we liave had \' from seventy to eighty men ill at a time with chilblains. The principal proprietor on Cumberland Island is Mrs. Shaw, the daughter of General Green, who was second in command to Washington in the Revolutionary war. When we landed, she was reputed to be rich. Her slaves alone were worth ten thousiind pounds sterling, the whole of whom have deserted. The overseer, a black man, carried the keys of the outhouses to his mistress yesterday and told her he intended to join the English. We had a number of men quartered in her cotton-houses which, through care- Jessness, were set on fire and totally destroyed, so that she is now reduced to poverty. All the slaves who ofter them- selves as soldiers are received, if fit for service, and those who merely wish to quit their masters are sent to the Bermudas or Halifax. Fortunately for both countries, peace was soon after concluded, and the Royal Marines left Cum- berland Island, and returned by way of the Ber- mudas to England to be disbanded. In America, Mr. Richardson had seen much of the world, and having had charge of the hospital for the troops employed in Georgia, enjoyed the most favourable opportunities for enlarging his experience as a surgeon, and developing his administrative ability. > tmm ^ssaBmswm&m'm^ iei««ivis 58 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1815 '.i ')! SV ^'Hi i 1 ■ f I ^B ■ * H H ^m ^ :^m CHAPTEE VII. AT EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY — DOCTOR'S DEGREE — BEGINS TO PRACTISE AS A PHYSICIAN MARRIAGE APPOINTED SUR- GEON AND NATURALIST TO THE FIRST OVERLAND EXPEDI- TION TO THE POLAR SEA. 1815—1819. The general peace which followed the battle of Waterloo, enabled Mr. Richardson to obtain a season of rest from active service. He was placed on half-pay, and the long cherished plan of re- suming his studies at the University of Edinburgh was carried into effect during the winter session of 1815-16. There are few materials from which to sketch the student life of this period. We only catch glimpses of it in some of his letters, and those of early friends. He always avoided speaking of himself and his doings. This sensitive modesty — abhorrence of anything like egotism —increases, in no small degree, the difficulty of tracing his early career. We know, however, that he assidu- ously attended the classes in the University till 1817, when he obtained the degree of Doctor of ifi 1815 1818 MARRIAGE. 69 Medicine, the subject of his thesis being, * De febre flava.' Towards the close of 1817, Dr. Eichardson began to practise as a physician at 36, Consti- tution Street, Leith. In the letters which he wrote at this time, there is not much said about his own affairs. One, however, to his father, dated April 6, 1818, refers to an important event, his approaching marriage to Mary, second daughter of WiUiam Stiven, Esq., Leith, which was solem- nised on June 1. His private practice as a physician was not very successful. We have no doubt that this failure was permitted by the Supreme Ruler, to lead him into the sphere for which he had been, uncon- sciously, preparing, and the duties of which, from his well-knit frame, habits of life, and mental qualities, he was admirably fitted to fulfil. An overland journey to the shores of the Arctic Sea was, at this time, about to be undertaken, and early in 1819, Dr. Richardson w^as appointed sur- geon and naturalist to the expedition. On March 26, 1819, the Secretary of the Admi- ralty wrote : — Commissioner Searle, having put into my hand your application to be employed on the Xorthern Expedition, I wrote to a friend in Edinburjih to make encjuiry whether you were acquainted with any of the l)ranch('S of Natural History. As tlie report is satisfactory, if you fi^el disposed for such an expedition, and think tliat your health and w ^*^^ip^l9PiPiPiiOTi^pi«iVPP«VHHPmBm ■ 60 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1819 I (jualifications are suitable for the undertaking, and you could be ready to set out from England by the first week in May, I request you to state to me whetlier you could undertake to collect and preserve specimens of minerals, plants, and aniniiils, in order that I may lay it before Lord Melville, for his consideration and approval. Dr. Eichardson promptly replied, and on April 3, received the announcement of Lord Melville's having concurred in his appointment. On March 29, he wrote to his brother, Mr. Peter Eichardson, informing him of the offer which had been made by the Admiralty, and that he had written to sig- nify his acceptance of it, adding, — I consider this appointment as affording a fairer prospect of advancement than any I have hitherto held, and as it will bring me into acquaintance with many scientific men, and those at the head of naval affairs, I am much pleased with it. ■ He was the more gratified at having been selected for this honourable service, that Macvey Napier, the editor of the ' Edinburgh Encyclopaedia,' had been directed to make enquiries regarding his abilities, and report to Mr. Barrow, before the appointment was made. Meantime, Dr. Eichardson devotes every mo- ment he can spare, to the study of mineralogy, Professor Jamieson kindly allowing him the use of his museum, and to attend his lectures free. On April 7, he wrote to his father : — 1819 SURGEON TO THE OVERLAND EXPEDITION. 61 I shall proceed, by sea, to London, next week, when I shall learn more fully the objects of the expedition, and inform you. Mrs. Richardson will fix her abode at Dalkeith until I return ; but it is possible that she will pay you a visit in the summer. I expect the service will be pleasant, and consider myself fortunate in being selected for it by the Admiralty. If rapid success had crowned his efforts in Leith, these loving hearts, so recently united by the closest of ties, might have shrunk from the long separation which must necessarily follow his acceptance of this appointment. The young wife, however deeply she felt the breaking up of her new home, and the parting which was so soon to take place, never murmured or complained. Having gained the acquiescence of his wife, he followed the leadings of Providence. In the wastes of the northern wilderness, the nobler points of his character were to be brought prominently out. He went forth, resolved to gain some share of fame, and prove himself worthy of his wife's love, and returned, as we shall see, with the foundation of a noble character firmly laid. mviv^P! «w »■ 62 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1819 f CHAPTEE VIII. VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY TO THE POLAR REGIONS — DR. RICH- ARDSON IN LONDON — SAILS FROM GRAVESEND — ARRIVES AT YORK FACTORY — SPENDS THE FIRST WINTER AT CUMBEl:- LAND HOUSE. U: 1819-1820. We now come to the time when Dr. Richardson became connected with those expeditions to the Arctic American coast, during which were brought out so prominently the high sense of honour, bravery, self-denial, patient endurance, loving tenderness — esjDecially to the weak — and firm faith in God's goodness, for which he was remarkable. In 1818, renewed efforts were begun to extend our knowledge of the Arctic seas, and discover the passage between the North Pacific and At- lantic Oceans. The ' Dorothea,' under Commander David Buchan, and the * Trent,' Lieutenant John Franklin, proceeded northwards to endeavour to cross the Polar Sea; but between Spitzbergen and Greenland, the ' Dorothea ' received so much injury in the ice, that they were obliged to return. The ' Isabella,' commanded by Captain John Ross 1819 IN LONDON. G3 and the * Alexander,' by Lieutenant William Ed- ward Parry, were appointed to perform their voy- age of discovery throu«^li Davis' Straits. This voya^je was so far successfiU, that it established the accuracy of Baffin's survey of the bay which bears his name ; but Captain Ross returned, with- out having examined Lancaster Sound. In 1819, therefore, the ' Hecla ' and * Griper ' were com- missioned for that duty, the former ship com- manded by Lieutenant William Edward Parry, and the latter, by Lieutenant Mathew Liddon. Meanwhile, Lieutenant Franklin was appointed to lead an expedition over land, from Hudson's Bay to the mouth of the Coppermine River, in order to determine the latitudes and longitudes, and trending of the northern coast eastward, to the extremity of the American continent. The officers ajjpointed to accompany Franklin were Dr. John Richardson, as surgeon and naturalist, Mr. (now Rear-Admiral Sir George) Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, midshipmen, to make illustra- tive drawings, plans of the routes taken, and assist their chief in obtaining observations. A happier combination of talent and noble qualities of mind could scarcely have been formed, and the friendships, which were cemented by daring and suffering for each other in the snowy wastes, re- mained unbroken in after-life. On April 24, 1819, Dr. Richardson wrote to his father : — C4 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1819 // I arrived in London yesterday, after a paHssige of seven days from Leith. I have seen the officer wlio is to command the expedition, and am much pleased with liis manners. He is a lieutenant in the navy, and liis name is Franklin. I have also seen Sir Joseph Banks, and liave a general in- vitation to his house. To-morrow evening:, there is a general assemblage of literary and scienlific men in his li- brary, to which I mean to go for the purpose of being in- troduced to Dr. Leach and Mr. Koenig of the British ]\[useum. Our expedition will occupy a longer time than I expected ; at least two years from the time we leave Ejigland. The plan is to land at York Fort in August, and thence proceed as soon as possible to Fort Chipewyan, an advanced post of the Hudson's Bay Company. It is doubtful whether we shall be .ible to get that length previous to the setting-in of winter, but if we do, it is intended to winter there, and proceed northwards in the spring, for the j)urpose of deter- mining the north-east boundary of the American continent. This object may be attained in the course of the first summer, but it will 1)0 left in the discretion of the commanding officer to return southwards on approach of winter, and complete, during the following summer, any part of his survey which he may have lelt unfinished. My duty will be to collect minerals, plants, and animals. The country has never been visited by a naturalist,, and presents a rich harvest. ]My knowledge of these subjects is very limited, but I am endeavouring to extend it by the opportunities afforded me here, and if I succeed in making a good collection, I have no doubt of my promotion on my return. Mv wife intends visitinsr vou in tlve summoi", when you 1819 IN LONDON. 65 will have an opportunity of observing in lior those (lomestic virtues which have rendered the last year the happiest in niy life. The hope ol'ac(|uiring the power of rendering her more comfortable, and the possibility of obtaining some portion of fame, and j)roving myself worthy of her att'cction, are the inducements which I have to undertake the expe- dition, and are the only motives strong enough to enable me to endure so long an absence. During his brief sojourn in London, he became acquainted with many who were distinj^uished for their scientific attainments, and others who have since grained for themselves undying fame. The eminent naturalist. Dr. J. E. Gray, of the British Museum, thus mentions the commencement of his long friendship with the subject of our Memoir : — When Sir John Richardson came to London, on his ap- pointment to accompany Sir John Franklin on his memor- able Overland Expedition, he brought with him a letter of introduction to Sir Joseph Banks. I happened to be then studying in the library in Soho Square, and Sir Joseph referred him to me, as a person who could give him informa- tion respecting the collection and preservation of animals. We had a good deal of conversation on this and other sub- jects connected with Natural History, and the acfiuaintance thus begun ripened into an intimacy, which lasted without interruption until the time of his dcatli, and enabled me thoroughly to understand and appreciate his high and estimable character, both as a Naturalist and as a man. On Sunday, May 23, 1819, the party embarked at Gravesend, in the * Prince of Wales,' a vessel G6 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1819 r« belonging- to the Huds n's Bay Company. A week later, Dr. Eichardson wrote to his wife, — We have been detainerl, in the moutli of the Thames, by contrary winds, and are now at anclior in Ilollesly Bay. I regret this detention the less as it will ensure my receiving a letter from you on arriving at the Orkneys. After quitting these Islands, I have no chance for at least twelve months, but shall hope for the best, trusting to that Pro- vidence wliich is all powerful. I have now liad an opportunity of becoming better ac- quainted with the commanding officer, and have every reason to consider myself most fortunate in being associated with him. He is a steady, religious, and cheerful man, and altogether an honour to tl'.e profession. The young gentle- men, too, who accompany us, are pleasant companions, and 1 trust that our expedition will prove an agreeable one. The recollection of home will, indeed, intrude, but I en- deavour to console myself with the reflection that you are in good hands. The coast of Sussex, near which we are anchored, looks beautiful, but the views 1 have of it only serve to remind me of the scenes about Newbattle, where I trust my beloved INIary is enjoying the beauties of Nature, and not allowing the sorrow of our separation too much to undermine her happiness. We shall have divine service every Sunday, both during our voyage out and our after ])rogress. How pleasant to reflect that you and I, though in different quarters of the globe, may be occupied, at the same time, in offering up our thanksgivings to that Being whose bounties fill the whole earth ! A letter, written while the vessel was approacli- ^,m 1819 1819 ICEBERGS. iny. fe,- Tlici arnes isly Bay, roceivinff o ;. After 3t twelve hat Pro- etter ac- e every ^sociated nan, and ^ gentle- ons, and ->le one. ut I en- yoii are we are it only here I a turn, uch to during sant to of the ing up whole )acii- ing her destined port, gives a graphic description of the voyage, which had been stormy : — 'After passing the southern point of Greenland, named Cape Farewell, we met with much ice, but as it did not lie thick, little difficulty was ex|)ei"ienced in forcing a way through it ; nor did it prove so great an impediment as the contrary winds that still continue to thwart us. Near the coast of Greenland, the fields or streams of ice consisted of a collection of loose and comparatively flat jtieces, more or less densely compacted together, according to the state ol' the Aveather, but in approaching the shores of Labrador, we fell in with m^ny icebergs, or large floating islands of ice. The variety of forms assiuned by these masses afforded us amusement, but occasionally, we saw some of such an enormous size that every other feeling gave place to astonishment. One of these larger Bergs we estimated to be two hun(b"ed feet high above the water, and more th;m half a me in length. Its surface was broken by mountains, with deep valleys between. Enormous as these dimensions must ap- pear, you will be more surprised when I ijiform you that the part of an iceberg which projects above water, amounts only to the ninth part of the whole mass, that being the proportion of ice which floats above salt water. Arthur's seat, clothed in snow, would have formed only one pinnacle to this Berg. When these bodies became familiar to us, from their frequenc} , we derived much pleasure from the various shades and gradations of colour they exhibited. The more compact parts were generally of a bright verdigris blue; towards the base a fine sea-green colour prevailed; here and there a tint of red was seen, and the summits alone were snow-white. As the part of the ice which is covered F 2 I' i I i 68 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1819 I, by the sea decays more rapidly than tliat which is in the air, it often liappens that one of tliese ishinds becomes top- heavy, and tumbles over. We n3ver saw one in the act of making this revohition, but most of them bore marks of liaving overturned twice oc thrice, the old water-lines (in- i M-secting each other in various directions), being still deeply engraved on their surfaces. These enormous masses would ;it first siglit appear to block up all approach to the frozen shores of the North, but when we consider the manner in which they are detached, and carried southward to melt away under warmer seas and skies, it affords us a new reason to admire the ways of Providence, which by means of ad- iniiably simple agents accomplishes the most important ends. Everyone was by this time tired of the length of our voyage, and extremely anxious to see the Island of Keso- lution, which forms one side of the entrance of Hudson's Straits, and is generally the first land wliich the Hudson's Bay traders see aiter leaving the shores of Britain. At length we saw it, but under such circumstances that we had great cause to bless the goodness of the Divine Being who protects and uphc'ds his creatiu-es when there is none else to help. We first beheld the land during a fog, which soon became so thick that we could not see the length of the ship. In consequence of this we got involved in a field of ice ; then to add to our distress, it fell calm, and, although we could perceive that we were carried along by a stiong current, yet the log deprived us of ascertiiining its direction, and the depth of water was too great to admit of our anchoring. After remaining in this situation ibr two or three hours, receiving occasionally some heavy blows from the ice, an alarm was given that we were close to the rocks. I8I9 1819 NARROW ESCAPE. 69 h is in the comes top- i the act of '■ marks of -hnes (in- still deeply sses would the frozen manner in d to meh lew reason ms of ad- importaut th of our I of Keso- Hudson's Hudson's fain. At :it we had eing who none else lich soon th of the field of altiiough a strong irc'ction, t of our two or ws from le rocks. We all ran upon deck and beheld a tremendous clifl", I'rowning directly over the mast-heads of the ship. It was perfectly perpendicular, covered in many places b}^ sheets of ice, and its summit was so high, and shrouded in so thick a fog, that it could not be traced from the deck. We had scarcely time to make { ny useful exertions, for in a few minutes the ship fell broadside against the cliff, along the face of which she was violently hurried by the current to- wards a ridge of broken rocks, which in a short time would have torn the stoutest vessel to pieces. The heavy swell which prevailed, caused the ship, in her passjige, to beat against various rocky ledges which projected under water. ' ^'^ of the blows she thus sustained drove the rudder out o(' ir.-, place, but it fortunately hung suspended by a tJickllng wii.vih had been employed to secure it on coming amongst the ice. At this instant, when all human exertions seemed l)erfectly fruitless, the current eddied off shore, a land breeze sprung up, a boat that we had put overboard suc- ceeded in taking us in tow^, and what appears almost mi- raculous, one of the last bumps the ship received caused the rudder to fall back into its place. By this coml)ination of lavourable circumstances, we succeeded in getting round the point which we so much dreaded, and setting all sail, steered from the land. Upon the first alarm of danger, the women and children, of whom we had a large number on board, going to Lord Selkirk's colony, rushed upon deck, and by their expressions of fear and despair added to the horrors of the scene. The officers, however, prevailed upon them to go below out of the way of the sailors ; biit scarcely had this been effected, when the current carried us against a large iceberg, which had grounded upon a ridge of sunken rocks that lay at some distance from the shore. The crash 7^ X -V 70 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1819 of the masts and yards, together with the grinding of the ship's side against the ice, terrified them more than ever ; but we got speedily clear of tliis second danger Avithout re- ceiving further damage. Our troubles were not, however, at an end ; the ship had been so mucli injured whilst on the rocks, that on examination a great deal of water was found in the hold. All hands were instantly set to the pumps, but, to our mortification, we foiind that the water rushed in faster than we could, with every exertion, discharge it. Affairs now wore a gloomy aspect. The water in the hold increased to upwards of five feet, and the men were getting tired at the pumps, when fortunately the weather cleared up a little, and we saw the ' Eddystone,' one of the vofcsels that accompanied us, Mt no great distance, so we bore down and informed those on board of our situation. Every assistance in their power was promptly supplied. They sent twenty men and two carpenters. The services of the latter were invaluable, as our own carpenter had died in the earlier part of the voyage. These operations were, however, ne- cessiirily slow, and it was not until the evening of the second dny that Ave succeeded in getting all the Avater out of the sliip. During the Avhole of this time, not only fhe officers and men Avorked hard, but even many of the women, recovering their spirits, proved eminently useful at the pumps. On- arriving at York Factory^ the expedition found the Hudson's Bay Company and the North- West Fur Company waoing Avith each othex' cl war in which battles were foughtj lives lost, prisoners taken, and the Indians demoralised by the free distribution of spirituous liquors. Havin«^ re- 18J9 1819 YORK FACTORY. 1 f^ing of the t]ian ever ; vitJiout re- , Iiowever, Ji'Jston the ^vas found J'G pumps, rushed in rge it. ter in tlie men were e weather 3ne of the o we bore n. Every I'Jiey sent the latter he earlier ever, ne- g of the ater out only file ' of the useful at edition V^orth- ^ war toilers e free r re- ceived important information regarding the coun- try through which they had to travel, it was resolved to take the route by Cumberland House, on the Sawskatchewan, which was reached on Oc- tober 23, a distance of 650 miles, by rivers and lakes, having been accomplished in six weeks. Winter was rapidly approaching. Large flocks of geese and ducks were seen moving southwards, and the waters at Cumberland House began to be closed with ice. Any farther advance by boats that season was impossible. From this station Dr. Richardson wrote to his father on January 6, 1820. We have got thus far on our journey to the North, and fixed our abode for tlie winter amidst greater cumfort and plenty than we could havo lioped for. Before leaving Eng- land, we expected to have got much iarther, but the te- diousness of the voyage out disappointed our wishes, and may j)rove the cause of our remaining a season longer in this country than was at first contemplated. It will lequire a concurrence of favourable circumstances to enable us to reach the sea next summer, especially as we must retire to a suitiible wintering-place before the season is too liir ad- vanced. From these causes, our survey of the coast can only be made during 1821. The cold we liave already exp' rienced is about thirty degrees below zero, but we are Avell provided against it, and Imd this degree of cold not so disagreeable to the feelings as many of" the damp winter days in Britain. 1 have avoided sending home any details d' our jourticy for various reasons, but particularly that I may be able, on 72 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1820 my return, to avail myself of the privilege of travellers, and amuse you, during the winter nights, with some long stories. Besides, I have hitherto met with no surprising adventures or hair-breadth escapes, in our progress up the country. Everything has gone on provokingly smooth, and I am afraid that we shall not meet with any difficulties sufficient to ornament a narrative. That no delay might be experienced when the rivers and lakes became clear of ice, Lieutenant Franklin and Mr. Back, accompanied by John Hepburn, an Orkney seaman, set out, January 18, for the trading posts at Carlton House, Isle a la Crosse, and Fort Chipewyan, to secure the stores necessary for the advance of the whole party in spring. Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood were left at Cumberland House to bring up the boats and stores, as soon as the weather would permit. During this time, he employed himself in study- ing the manners and customs and language of the Cree Indians, tl e rocks, vegetable products, animals, and iiBhes of the country. From this period, the religious side of his character begins to be more clearly reflected in his letters and journals. There is a depth of truth in his saying regarding a tender-hearted Indian, whose own privation* were forgotten in his grief at the loss of a child, ' Misery may harden a disposition naturally bad, but it never fails to soften the heart of a good man.' In this furnace, all the members of the 1820 18-20 WINTER AT CUMBERLAND HOUSE. 73 vellers, and ong stories, adventures e countrj. and I am 3 sufficient lien the mtenant >J John lary 18, sle a la 3 stores arty in ere left its and • studv- ofthe limals, )d, the ' more Tliere nig a » were child, ^ bad, good f the party were to be purified and come ont nobler — better. In a letter to his wife, dated March 6, 1820, he describes the solitude of the winter residence at Cumberland House : — At this season, your walks -will be enlivened by the appearance of vegetjition. The snowdrop and crocus have already jieeped forth, and bedeck the trim parterres now so universjd in front of the tasteful abodes of the citizens of Edinburgh. In my rambles roimd that good old town, I liave often been amused to observe that the flowers were arranged so as to form the initials of the owner's name. In this remote country, art has done nothing amiss, because she has done nothing. None of her creations chequer th(» face of the land, and break the sjimeness which prevails, particularly in the present season of the year. Tlie mise- rable log houses in which we dwell are scarcely to be dis- tinguished, in their winter dress, from the fallen trees with which the woods abound. I could find in my heart to for- give the bad taste displayed in the erection of the most fimtastic building that ever was constructed, for the sake of the contrast it produces. Where there is no art, Nature ' loses hall" her charms. When I began my letter, I thouglit of the pleasure you must be feeling, as an admirer of the works of (iod, in })er- ceiviiig the earth bursting its frozen l)ands, and vegetation putting forth her powers. The jov, the exultation 1 have felt on such an occasion, was fresh in mv mind, and I could not but contrast it with the deju'ession produced by a winter unusually extended Winter, in unspotted livery, surrounds us. The snow covers the ground to the depth of three lect, and the trees bend under their ponll»ENCE AT FORT ENTEUI'lJISE. 1820-1821. During the lonji; winter residence of ten months at Cumberland House, Dr. Richardson examined the structure of the various species of fish obtained from under the snow, many specimens of lichens, and made himself acquainted with the mineralogy of the surrounding country. Spring at last opened the waters, and on July 13, he and Mr. Hood, after a ra2)id journey of 857 miles, joined their chief at Fort Chipewyaxi. It was now found that the fur traders could grant but scanty supplies, and the expedition party, amounting to twenty-five, started from the chief northern post of the North-West Company, with only one full day's supply of food. At Fort Pro- vidence, on the north side of Great Slave Lake, they were joined by a band of Copper Indians, under a chief named Akaitcho, and reached their wintering place, at Fort Enterprise, August 19, r ••»" 76 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSOX. 1820 ' ( ^;: having travelled 1,350 miles from Cumberland House. Before leaving Fort Providence, he wrote to his father, mentioning the route which they intended to pursue, and then gave expression to a burst of tenderness : — I have not received a line from home since I loft the Orkneys, and you may easily conceive what my anxiety is about you all. The separation from my wife, and the distance to which I have removed myself from my i'riends, are sacrifices wliich nothing could have induced me to make, except the prospect which the present expedition held forth of rendering me ultimately more able to be ol use to those whose absence I so much rcirret, and whose advantjige I value far beyond my own comfort. We have thus a glimpse of the chief motives which impelled this good and brave man to face the A.rctic wilderness — duty and self-denying love. His brother, Mr. Peter Eichardson, had leased the farm of Disdow, near Gatehouse, when agricul- tural produce was at war prices, and the change which peace bi'ought caused him to fall into finan- cial difficulties, his father being the chief loser. There were other brothers to educate, and Dr. Richardson hesitated not to leave home and wife to face the rigours and privations of the snowy re- gions if he might thus be enabled to aid those whom he loved. Before the lines which we have quoted reached Nith Place, the beloved father, for whom ■ ii 1820 LETTER TO HIS MOTHER. 77 they were intended, was lyinlendid, will soon be Ibrgotten, and the public remembrance xy£ him will pass away as if he had never been. It was only amongst his most intimate fiiends and in his own family, that his tender goodness of heart could be appreciated and his up- right principles thoroughly known. His memory will be long cherished in their hearts and his example will have a ])Owerful effect on his children. I trust that, encouraged by the peaceful close of his life, they may contemn all meaner aims and look to a world beyond the grave, and that, having nobly run the race that is set before them, they may die the death of the righteous. To his mother, who had lost both her husband and youngest son, the latter having gone to Ja- maica, where one of his maternal uncles was a planter, he wrote : — When you receive this letter, your grief for the loss of the partner of your heart and tender lather oi" your family will have mellowed into a grateful resignation to the dis- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I L^IZB 125 It 1;° 1 2.0 ■ 22 11-25 III 1.4 v: 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTH.N.Y. USM (716) •73-4503 ^'^2'^ ^^^ ^ m 78 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1820 ' 1 ponsjitions of Providence. The trouMoH lie Imd to en- counter are V)e8t known to yon, the partner of his carea, anxieties, and paternal affections. Great as tliey were, he bore them witliout i\ niurnmr and manfully stemmed a torrent of adversity which would have overwhelmed any one whose exertions were actuated by a zeal less ardent than liis. Let us be thankful to God. It was his will to try him with calamities, but he granted stn-ngtli an I wisdom to surmoimt them. I shall not now conceal from vou that I left home under the mournful conviction that I ft' shoidd see him no more — that I should never jigain con- template his countenance beaming with kindness and siiffused with joy at the return of one of his cliildren. I knew the fatal nature of his disorder, and often in my Rolitarv moments in this country has a dread attracts these animals in great numbers to the barren hills in the Kummer season, but dtiring the winter they retire to the woota[>le coin- 80 LIFE OF SIR JOHN KICHARDSOX. 1820 I! modity is the reindeer. We are just in the track of their visits to and from the woods and some are daily killed within sight of the house. Ve have managed, notwithstanding the diminutive size of the trees, to eonHtruc'i a stately dwelling. It is fifty feet l(»ng, and twenty-four wide, and consists of three bed- rooms and a common hall. We have V>esides a lai^e kitchen lieliind, a storehouse on one wing, and a house for twenty men on the other. If to this you add a few Indian lodges wattered in the foreground you may picture to yourself Fort Enteri)rise, and conclude that it makes a ver\- rej'fiec- taTile apj)earance. The buildings are framed of logs and plastered on the outside and inside with clay. With the latter m'diterial als4» the roof is covered and the chimneys constructed. The windows are closed with thin parchment made of reindeer skin, and our chairs and tables are formed by the hatchet and knife, tools which the Canadians use with great dexterity. The party having arranged to winter at Fort Enterprise, Mr. Back volunteered to return for am- munition and other supplies to Fort Providence, and, if jjossible, also to Fort Chipewyan. He set out from Winter Lake on October 18, and re- turned January 17, 1821, having travelled 1,104 miles on snow shoes, with no covering at night other than a blanket and deerskin, the thermo- meter frequently indicating forty degrees below zero. The supplies which he was able to obtain at the trading posts were far from being adequate for the wants of the expedition. Spring found T I m^wi w III! 1(21 FORT ENTERPRISE. 81 them destitute of any store of provisions, and nnder the necessity of relinquishing the under- taking, or of making the journey to the mouth of the Copi^ennine River on the casual and often scanty products of the chase, and 200 pounds of drijd meat, which Dr. Richardson, aided by two hunters, prepared at Point Lake, some distance in advance. In April, 1821, he wrote to his brother, Mr. Pet?r Richardson : — Your letter of April, 1H20, has just cojno to liand, and although the news is a year old, it is agreeable to learn of the welfare of our friends, even at that distiuit date. We have travelled through a country where intrigue and violence have a powerful sway. The contests of the rival Fur Companies have heen carried on in a disgraceful and l)arl)arou8 manner ; hut Me are now fortunately beyond their direct influence, though we still hear of wars and rumours of wars at the posts below. Next suunner will carry us into the territories of the unsophisticated Ks(|ui- maux, and if we should be compelled to eat l)lubber and drink seal oil, it will be at a disUmce from the turmoils which agitate the other parts of the world. We already enjoy a greater length of day than you do at the siinie season, and the sun is beginning to have con- siderable j)ower, but we do not expect tiie snow to dis- appear before the middle of next month, nor that we shall be able to move hence previous to the month of June. It will probably be near the end of July before the ice will be entirely gone from the Coj)pennine River. Our pro- ceedings, after we reach the sea, will depend so mudi on \i 82 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 rircumfttinors with which wo arc at present unacciuaintcd, that it is iiHolcss to hazard an opinion on tiic subject. We arc likely to stjirt in good lu-iilth and spirits, having fed well during the winter, and not suffered from tht; cohl, thougli rum a little below proof froze in our bed- rooms. Having volunteered to lead the first detachment to the Coppermine River, Dr. Richardson set out on June 4. The party * consisted of fifteen voya- geurs, three of them conducting dog sledges ; Baldhead and Basil, two Indian hunters, v itli their wives; Akaiyazzeh, a sick Indian, and his wife, together with Angelique and Roulante.' At Point Lake he encam|)ed, and found the snow deeper than had been seen at any time around Winter Lake. Through the kindness of Rear-Admiral Sir George Back, we are able to give a humorous description of the journey from Fort Enterprise to Point Lake, which shows that Dr. Richardson could enjoy a bit of real fun as heartily as any of his companions. Point I^ike. Juno 9, 1821. My deau Back, — Gilpin himself, that celebrated pictur- e8(|ue hunter, would have made a fruitless journey had he eoine with us. We followed the lakes and low grounds, which, after leaving Martin I^ke, were so deeply covered with snow that it was impossible to distinguish lake from moor, and frequently when I was congratulating myself, 1 was surprised by sinking to the middle through the snow, and stickiiig among the large stones which cover the valleys. 1821 t • 18il JOURNEY TO POINT LAKE. 83 I Imvc said this much that you may judgo of the sameness of the views that occurred on our journey. The only variety that we had was in crossing two extensive ridges of hind wliich lie at the dintimce of seven or eight miles from each other, and nearly lialf way to the river. I should suppose them to form the height of land between Winter and Coppermine Kivers, as all the hills which I have seen in this country consist of sand. Amongst these hills you may observe some curious basins, but nowhere did I see anything worthy of your pencil. So much for the country. It is a barren subject, and deserves to be thus briefly dismissed. Not so the motley group of which we were composed. It afforded ample scope for the ablest pencil or pen, and whether character or humour were most kept in view, would, in tl\e hands of genius, produce a picture not in many respects inferior either to Chaucer's Pilgrims or llogjirth's Guards. The psirty was composed of twenty-three individuals, all marching in Indian file, but variously grouped according to their physical strength and the heaviness of their burdens. Belanger * le gros,' exult- ing in his strength, was foremost in the rank. Belanger * le rouge ' followed close behind ; whilst little Perrault completed the trio, and formed the first triangle in the picture. Adam came next, but at a respectful distance. His over-loaded sledge could not keep pace with the others, and he had frequently to lug along another with the ' butin ' of his beloved Angelique. I need not trouble you with an account of the rank maintained by the rest of the party. You know their various characters and powers, and can arrange them correctly. Roulante came tumbling along in the rear, the snow sometimes too deep to admit of her legs reaching the bottom, but the rotundity of her body oa T 84 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHABD80X. 1821 was such that slic never sank beyond a certain depth. In such cases it was admirable to sec tlie dexterity witli which she drew her extremities into her enormouR eor|)oration, and came rolling like an avalanche alon^ the surOico of the snow. Dumas, from the love he l»ore to the northern, carried Kyer, and Michel, for reasons unknown, carried her * butin.' The most prominent figure, however, of the whole, beamsc the most unearthly, was mother Adam. She came htriding along sup|)orted by a stick which towered over the heads of all the others ; a pair of red stockings and various other articles of her garb heightened the peculiarities of her figure; and as to her g:»it, it was similar to nothing I had ever l»efore seen. St)metimcs I was tempted to compare her to Hecate, sometimes to Meg Merrilies. Not that she had mind enough to be a powerful sorceress, or majesty sufficient for a commanding j^resonce, but because she appeared to be rather a creature of the imagination than a reality. Every njemU'r of her body seemed to have belonged lo different individuals and to have been formed i>y a random association into a sort of semblance of the human form ; but from want of jiroper animation the extremities never acted in concert, and the distorted spine which composed the centre, now bent to this side, now to that, according as the leg which described the greater or the smaller circle was in motion, while the arms played up and down to pre8e^^-e something like equi- librium, l>ut with the involuntary and convulsive motions of the most fantastic of Shakespeare's weird sisters in the height of lier frenzy. There was another figure of a different gender, with an unwashed face, matted locks, and moustaches of the colour and strength of straw ; equip him as you please and place him in any part of the file you choose. 1821 1S21 JOCBNEY TO POINT LAKE, 85 A ('jinaIating tlie river lliat washed the j)reei|)ieo under liis feet, long alter du.sk liad iiiddeu distant ohjeeta from liis view. His thoughts were, jierluips, ii»r distiuit from the surrounding nhjects, when he was roused hy an indistinct noise behind liim, and on looking round j>erceived that nine wiiite wolves had ranged themselves in form of a crescent, and were advancing apparently with the intention of driving him into the river. On his rising up, they halted, and when lie advanced tliey made way Ibr his |>jissjige down to the tents. He had liis gun in his hand, but lbrl>ore to lire, lest there should be Ksciuimaux in the neighbourhood. ' On the evening of July 14,' sijys Franklin, ' Dr. llich- ardson ascended a lolly liili about three miles from the en- campment and obtained the Hrst view of the sea. He saw the sun set a few minutes belbre midnight from the »imo elevated situation. It did not rise during the lialf hour ho remained tliere, but before he reacheil the encam[»ment its rays gilded the tops of the hills.' To Mr. Wentzel, the trading agent at Fort Providence, who had accompanied the expedition to the sea, despatches for England were intrusted, and the farther duty of making sure that the In- dians would place a supply of dried provision at T 88 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 i I Fort Enterprise, the first point which the party wonld fall back upon when overtaken by winter. Information repirding the direction where Akail- cho and the other Indians wonld be huntin<^ in Septi?niber and October, was also to be left at their last winter cpiarters, for the guidance of the expedition on arriving there. On July 18, Dr. Richardson wrote : — After Inivelling )ij)wur(l.s of a inoiitli over tlio hhoals jind rapidH, wc liavo at length readied the sea. The islands about tlio nioutii of the river aro so numerous that we do not know as yet whetlier we liave come to a deep inlet or arm of the sea running east and west, or merely a coast lined hy an assend)lagc of islands, which, crossing each other, look, I'rom a distance, like a continued shore. The good people of England may, perhaps, not give us the credit of having reached the sea at all, when they learn that the water is only brackish — a fact which wo have ascertained, not by dipping the finger in and tasting it, but by swallowing several kettlefuls. The islands are high, but, as well as the main shore, they arc destitute of wood. At the mouth of the river and round the islands there is a small channel of open water, ])Ut, farther off, the ice ex- tends in a continued field, although we aro led to expect that it will soon break up. On July 21, the officers, with John Hepburn, the Orkney seaman, and the Canadian voyageurs, in two canoes, commenced their voyage on the Arctic Sea. With want staring them in the face, they bravely pressed eastward, until August IG, 1 1821 1821 THE BAUEEN GROUNDS. 89 [ surveying the coaats of Bathiirst's Inlet and Coro- nation Gulf to Point Turna«?ain, havinj^ Hailed over r>r>r) jreo«rrapliical miles. To advance further was to risk the loss of the whole party, and aftt'r having been detained for several days by a heavy snow-storm, the canoes were turned again in the direction of Bathurst's Inlet. Crossing Melville Sound in a strong wind and heavy sea, they as- cended Hood's River for some distance. The ca- noes were then reduced in size and a course taken over the Barren Grounds for Point Lake. The sufferings enduretl can scarcely be conceived. Game was scarce, and the strength of the party rapidly failed under the united intluences of cold, famine, and fatigue. A scanty meal of a nauseous weed, called trijf*' '/<• rochc, with an occasional partridge, was their sole support while toiling wearily on in hopes of reaching Winter Lake and finding supplies. On September LJ, it was dis- covered that the Canadian voyageurs had thought- lessly thro>vii away the fishing nets. All books and instruments not necessary to finding the way were now left behind, and a week later. Dr. Rich- ardson, unable to carry them further, also depo- sited the specimens which he had collected on the coast. Still they were not without hope. Firm faith in the Almighty supported them. Their sufferings increased. Mr. Hood became unable to move on behind the first man to direct the way. Franklin was also in the rear, and Rich- I 90 LIFE OF PIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 ardson took the lead. Back was in advance with the hunters, trying to obtain game. On September 22, the men, who, weak and dispirited, had fallen several times and injured the canoe, would carry it no further. To this abandonment of the canoe, and the consequent delay in crossing the Copper- mine River, may be attributed many of the subse- quent disasters which befel the party. The river was gained on September 26, but there were no means of getting to the other side. Through despondency, the Canadians had ceased to dread punishment, or to be stimulated by the hope of reward, and four days passed before they would begin to bind willows for a raft, which was at last constructed, only to find that there was no way of impelling it to the opposite bank against a strong wind. * At this time,' snys Franklin, in his narrative, 'Dr. Richardson, prompted by a desire of relieving his suffer- ing companions, proposed to swim across the stream with a line and to haul the rafc over. He launched into the stream with the line round his middle, but when he had got a short distance from the bank, his arms became benumbed with cold, and he lost the power of moving them; still he persevered, and turning on his back had nearly gained the opposite bank, when his legs also became powerless, and to our infinite alarm we beheld him sink. "We instantly hauled upon the line and he came again on the surface, and was gradually drawii ashore in an almost lifeless state. I^eing rolled up in blankets, he was placed before a good fire of willows, and fortunately was just able to speak sni- rs'Tiii'ittS' ilH 1 ^ 1821 ce with )tember fallen carry canoe, opper- subse- 6, but r side, ceased by the before whicli tliere bank ', *Dr. suffer- with a to the iJid got tinibed till lie ed the and to tantlv e, and state. good ; snf- 1321 THE COPPERMINE RIVER. 01 ficiently to give some slight directions respecting tlie man- ner of treating him. He recovered strength gradually, and by the blessing of God was enabled in the course of a ibw hours to converse, and by the evening was sufficiently re- covered to remove into the tent. We then regretted to learn that the skin of his whole left side was deprived of feeling in consequence of exposure to too great heat. He did not perfectly recover the sensjition of that side until the following summer. I cannot describe what every one lelt at beholding the skeleton which the Doctor's debilitjited frame exhibited. When he stripped, the Canadians simul- taneously exclaimed, " Ah (jue nous soiumes maigres ! " ' Franklin adds, ' I have omitted to mention that when he was about to .step into the water, he put his foot on a dagger, which cut him to the bone, but this misfortune could not stop him from attempting the execution of his crenerous un- dertaking.' A little canoe, formed of willows covered with tent canvas, was at length made, and after a week's delay, the party, one by one, crossed the river. Mr. Back was immediately sent forward to Tort Enterprise, with the strongest of the Cana- dians, to search for the Indians and send back aid. Mr. Hood was now very feeble, and Dr. Kichardson, having attached himself to him, walked with him at a gentle pace. Old shoes and scraps of leather, everything which possessed any nutriment, was now resorted to in order to sus- tain life, and death began his work. The men became appalled, and could scarcely be restrained from throwing away all they carried and hastening lIPK^a^W ■«■ 92 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 on to the Fort, in which case no one would have lived to tell the sad tale. Dr. Richardson, therefore, volunteered to en- camp with Mr. Hood, who felt too weak to pro- ceed, the good old sailor, John Hepburn, oftering to remain with them. At the first place which promised some days' supply of tripe de roche, their tent was erected, and Franklin, with the Canadians, proceeded onward in hopes of finding relief. iii 1821 have 1821 THE ENCAMPMENT. 93 en- CHAPTER XI. THE ENCAMPMENT — MICHEL RETURNS MURDER OF MU. HOOD DR. RICHARDSON, JOHN HEPRUHN, AND ^IICHEL SET OUT FOR FORT ENTERPRISE — DR. RICHARDSON NECESSITATED TO SHOOT MICHEL — REUNION AT THE FORT — FORT ENTERPRISE IN RUINS. 1821. In Dr. Richardson's journal, published in the * Narrative of the First Overland Journey,' he says : — After Captain Franklin liad bidden ii3 farewell, we re- mained seated by the fire-side as long as the willows the men had cut for us before they departed lasted. We had no tripe de roche that day, but drank an infusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, although it afforded no sustenance. We then retired to bed, where we continued all the next day, as the weather was stormy, and the snow-drift so heavy as to destroy every prospect of success in our endeavours to light a fire with the green and frozen willows, which were our only fuel. Through the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady,* the party, previous to leaving London, had been furnished * Lady Lucy Barry, wife of the Hon. Col. Barr)-, of Newton-Barry. -»— • .-••*-^*-^-^\IT - ^^'V—'.^ T y J a ^ C^^^^^ 94 LIFE OF SIK JOHX BICHABDSOX. 1821 ■i*' M'itli a small collection of religious books, of which we still retained two or three of the most portable, and they proved of incalculable benefit to us. We read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found they inspired us on each peru- siil with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a benefi- cent God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer destitute ; and we conversed, not only with calm- ness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained con- fidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope on our future prospects. On the morning of the 29th, the weather, although cold, was clear, and I went in quest of tripe de roche^ leav- ing Hepburn to cut willows for a fire, and Mr. Hood in bed. I had no success, as yesterday's snoAv-drift was so frozen on the surface of the rocks that I could not collect any of the weed ; but, on my return to the tent, I found that Michel, the Iroquois, had come with a note from Mr. Franklin, which stated that this man and Jean Baptiiste Belanger, being unable to proceed, were about to return to us, and that a mile beyond our present encampment there was a clump of pine-trees, to which he recommended iw to remove the tent. Michel informed us that he had quirted Mr. Franklin's party yesterday morning, but that, having missed his way, he had passed the night on the snow a mile or two to the northward of us. Belanger, he said, being impatient, had left the fire about two hours earlier, and. as he had not arrived, he supposed he had gone astray. Michel now produced a hare and a partridge which he had killed in the morning. This unexpected supply of provision was viewed by us with a deep sense of gratitude to the Almighty for His goodness, and we looked upon I 1821 REMOVE TO THE PINES. 95 as Michel a» the instrument He had chosen to preserve all our lives. He complained of cold, and Mr, Hood offered to share his buffalo robe with him at night. I gave him one of two shirts which I wore, whilst Hei)burn, in the warmth of his heart, exclaimed, ' How I shall love this man if I find that he does not tell lies like the others.' Early in the morning, Hepburn, Michel, and myself carried the ammunition and most of the other heavy arti- cles to the pines. Michel was our guide, and it did not occur to us at the time that his conducting us perfectly straight was incompatible with his story of having gone astray on his way to us. After we had made a fire and drank a little of the country tea, Hepburn and I returned to the tent, where we arrived in the evening, much exhausted with our journey. Michel preferred sleeping where he was, and requested us to leave him a hatchet, which we did, afler he had promised to come early in the morning to assist us in carrying the tent and bedding. Mr. Hood remained in bed all day. Seeing nothing of Belanger to-day, we gave him up for lost. On the 11th, after waiting until late in the morning for Michel, who did not come, Hepburn and I loaded ourselves with the bedding, and, accompanied by Mr. Hood, set out for the pines. Mr, Hood was much affected with dimness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of extreme debility, which caused us to move very slow, and to make frequent halts. On arriving at the pines we were much alarmed to find that Michel was absent. We feared that he had lost his way in coming to us in the morning, although it was not easy to conjecture how that could have happened, as our footsteps of yesterday were very distinct. Hepburn went back for the tent, and returned with it after dusk, 96 LIFE OP 8IE JOHN RICHAEDBON. 1821 i ^ completely worn out with the fhti^io of the day. Michel too .'irrived at the same time, lie reported that he had been in chasti of some deer which pa.«sed near his sleeping place in the morninjr, and although lie did not come up with them, yet that he foimd a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of a deer's horn, and had brought a part of it. "We implicitly believed this story then, but afterwards became convinced that it must have been a portion of the bodv of Belanjrer or Perrault. On the following morning the tent was pitched, and Michel went out early, refused my offer to accompany him, and remained out the whole day. He would not sleep in the tent at niglit, but chose to lie at the fire-side. On the Ukh there was a heavy gale of wind, and we passed the day by the fire. Next day, about two p.m., the gale al)ating, ^Fichel set out, as he said, to hunt, but returned luicxpectedly in a very short time. This conduct surprised us, and his contnidictory and evasive answers to our questions excited srjme sTispicions, but they did not turn towards the truth. October 15. — In the course of this day, Michel ex- pressed much regret that he had st.ayed behind Mr. Frank- lin's party, and declared that he would set out for the house at once if he knew the way. We endeavoured to soothe him, and to raise his hopes of the Indians speedily coming to our relief, but without success. He refused to assist us in cutting wood, but about noon, after much solicitfition, he set out to hunt. Hepburn gathered a kettle of tripe de roche, but froj^e his fingers. Both Hepburn and I fatigued ourselves much to-day in pursuing a flock of partridges from one part to another of the groups of willows in which the hut was situated, but we were too w^eak to be able to 1821 INSOLENCE OF MICHEL. 97 approach them with sufficient caution. In the evening Michel returned, having met with no success. Next day lie refused either to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly manner, and threatened to leave us. Under these circumstances, Mr. Hood and I deemed it better to promise, if he would hunt diligently for ibur days, that then we would give IIei*l>urn a letter to Mr. Franklin, a com- pass, iiifonn him what course to pursue, and let them pro- ceed together to the fort. The non-arrival of the Indians to our relief now led us to fear that some accident had happened to Mr. Franklin, and we placed no confidence in the exertions of the Canadians that accompanied him, but Ave had the fullefjt confidence in Hepburn's returning the moment ho could obtain assistance. On the 17th I went to conduct Michel to where Vail- lant's blanket was left, and after walking about three miles, pointed out the hills to him, at a distance, and returned to the hut, having gathered a bagful of tripe de roclie on the way. It was easier to gather this weed on a march than at the tent, for the exercise of walking, produced a glow of heat, which enabled us to withstand for a time the cold to which we were exposed in sf^raping tiie frozen sui-face of the rocks. Michel proposed to remain out all night and to hunt next day on his way back. He returned in the afternoon of the 18th, liaving found the blanket, together with a bag containing two pistols and some other things which had been left beside it. We had some tripe de roflie in the evening, but Mr. Hood, from the constant griping it pro- duced, was unable to eat more than one or two spoonfuls. He was now so weak as to be scarcely able to sit uj) at the fire-side, and complained that the least breeze of wind seemed to blow through his frame. I, f ;■( \ 98 LIFE OP 8IE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 At this period we avoided as much as possible con- versing upon the hopelessness of our situation, and gene- rally endeavoured to l(«d the conversation towards our future j>ros{>ccts in life. With the decay of strength our minds decayed, and we were no longer able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that surrounded us. Each of us excused Ijimsclf from so doing by a desire of not shock- ing the feelings of the others ^tjr we were sensible of one another's weakness of intellect, though blind to our own. Yet we were calm and resigned to our fate, not a murmur escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our ad- dresses to the Supreme Being. On the 19th, Michel refuseciily to evince any susj)icion that I thought Michel guilty of the deed, yet he repeatedly protested that he was incapable of committing such an act, kept constantly on his guard, and carefully avoided leaving Hepburn and me together. He was evidently afraid of permitting us to converse in private, and whenever Hepburn spoke, he incjuired if ho accused him of the nuirdt-r. AVe removed the body into a clump of willows behind the tent, and, returning to the fire, read the funeral service in addition to the evening ])rayers. ' Bickersteth's Scripture Help' was lying open beside the body, as if it had fallen from his hand, and it is pro- bable that he was reading it at the instant of his death. We passed the night m the tent without rest, every one being on his guard. Next day, having determined on going to the Fort, we began to patch and prepare our clothes for the journey. We singed the hair off a part of the buffalo robe that belonged to Mr. Hood, and boiled and ate it. Michel tried to persuade me to go to the woods on the Coppermine River, and hunt for deer, instead of going to the Fort. In the afternoon, a flock of partridges coming near the tent, he killed several, which he shared with us. Thick snowy weather and a head wind prevented us from starting the following day, but on the morning of the 23rd we set out, carrying with us the remainder of the singed robe. Hepburn and ^Michel had each a gun, and I .' 1821 THEY SET OUT FOR FORT ENTERPRISE. lOl carried a small pistol, which Ilopburn luid loaded lor me. In the course of the march, Micht-l alarmed us much by his gestures and conduct, was consUmtly muttering to hini- Helf, expressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, .'ind tried to persuade me to go southward to the woods, where he sjiid he could maintiiin himself all the winttr by killing deer. In consequence of this behaviour, and the exj)ression of his countenance, I requested him to leave us and go to the southward by himself This proposed increased his ill-natun3 ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing himself from all restraint on the mon'ow ; and I overheard him muttering threats against Hepburn, whom he openly accused of having told stories against him. He also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he considered us to be completely in his power, and lie gave vent to several expressions of hatred towards the white people, or, as he termed us in the id'om of the voy- ageurs, the French, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. In short, tiiking every circumstance of his conduct into consideration, I came to the conclusion that he would attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his ignorance of the way to the Fort, but that he would never suffer us to go thither in company with him. In the course of the day he had several times remarked that we were pursuing the same course that Mr. Franklin was doing when he left him, and that by keeping towards the setting sun he could find his way himself Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even an open attack, nor could we by any device escape from him. Oiu* united strength was far interior to wmm ,-..-i», .-.., .-^,. ,- >..,^>ji^ij..j r ggww pi 9BP 102 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 I I : t his, and, besides his gun, he was armed with two pistol?, an Indian bayonet, and n knife. In the aflernoon, coming to a rock on which there was some tripe de rochej he halted, and said he would gather it whilst we went on, and that ho would soon overtake us. Hepburn and I were now left together for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, and he ac(|uainted me with several material circumstiuices which he had observed of Michel's behaviour, and which confirmed me in the opinion that there was no safety for us except in his death, and he offered to be the instrument of it. I determined, however, as I was thoroughly con- vinced of the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the Avhole responsibility upon myself, and, immediately upon Michel's coming up, I put an end to his life by shooting him through the head with a pistol. Had my own life alone been threatened, I would not have purchased it by such a measure, but I considered myself as intrusted with the protection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane attentions and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me, that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own. Michel had gathered no tripe de roche^ and it was evident to us that he had halted for the purpose of putting his gun in order, with the intention of attacking us, perhaps while we were in the act of encamping. I have dwelt upon many circumstances of Michel's con- duct, not for the purpose of aggravating his crime, but to put the reader in possession of the reasons that influenced me in depriving a fellow-creature of life. Up to the pe- riod of his return to the tent his conduct had been good and respectful to the oflicers, and, in a conversation be- tween Captain Franklin, Mr. Hood, and myself, at Ob- struction Rapid, it had been proposed to give him a reward I vl ./i?ikUHH mmkmmmmUmitmiiA 18S1 1821 JOURNEY TO FORT ENTERPRISE. 103 pistolp, L coming \oche, he on, and I were s death, stances |d which ifety for itrument dy con- take the y upon 'hooting wn life d it by ed with mmane ^to me, y own. evident is gun I while s con- )ut to enced le pe- good 1 be- Ob- ward upon our arrival at a post. His principles, however, un- Hupported by a belief in the divine truths of Christianity, were unable to withstand the pressure of severe distress. On the two following days we had mild but thick snowy weather, and as the view was too limited to enable us to preserve a stniight course, we remained encamped amongst a few willows and dwarf pines, about five miles from tiie tent. We found a species o^Cornicularia, a kind of lichen, that was good to eat when moistened and toasted over the tire, and we had a good many pieces of singed buflalo hide remaining. On the 2Cth, we resumed our march, which was very painful from the depth of the snow, })articularly on the margins of the small lakes that lay in our route. We fre- quently sunk under the load of our blankets, and were obliged to assist each other in getting up. Next day we had fine and clear but cold weather. We set out early, and, in crossing a hill, found a considerable quantity of tripe de roche. About noon we fell upon Little Marten Lake, having walked about two miles. The sight of a place we knew inspired us with fresh vigoun and there being comparatively little snow on the ice, we advanced at a pace to which we had lately been unaccus- tomed. We encamped within sight of the Dog-rib Rock, and from the coldness of the night and the want of fuel, rested very ill. On the 28th we rose at daybreak, but from the want of the small fire that we usually made in the mornings to w.irm our fingers, a very long time was spent in making up our bundles. This task fell to Hepburn's share, as I suf- fered so much from the cold as to be unable to take my hands out of my mittens. We kept a straight course for iMtavw anav 104 LIFE OP SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 I -^'i f^ the Dog- rib Rock, but, owing to the depth of the snow in the valleys we had to cross, did not reach it till late in the afternoon. We would have encamped, but did not like to pass a second night without fire, and though scarcely able to drag our limbs after us, we pushed on to a clump of pines about a mile to the southward of the rock, and arrived at them in the dusk of the evening. During the last few hun- dred yards of our tnarch, our track lay over some largo stones, amongst Avhich I fell down upwards of twenty times, and I became at length so exhausted that I was unable to stand. If Hepburn had not exerted himself far beyond his streng h, and speedily made the encampment and kin- dled a fire, I must have perished on the spot. This night we had plenty of dry wood. On the 20th we had clear and fine weather. We set out at sunrise and hurried on in our anxiety to reach the house, but our progress was much impeded by the great depth of the snow in the valleys. Although every spot of ground over which we travelled to-day had been repeatedly trodden by us, yet we got bewildered on a small lake, and fancied that we saAV the rapid and grounds about the Fort, although they were still far distant. Our disiippointment when this illusion was dispelled, so operated on our leeble minds as to exhaurf our strength, and we decided on en- camping ; but upon ascending a small eminence to look for a clump of wood we caught a glimj)se of the Big Stone, a well-knoAvn rock upon the summit of a hill opposite to the Fort, and determined upon proceeding. In the evening we saw several large herds of reindeer ; but Hepburn, who used to be considered a good marksman, Avas now unable to hold the gun straight, and although he got near them all his efforts proved fruitless. In passing through a small ItSHiltSi C'u II .J—M ■Mlli n M i l raiMMUMMMMwUili I82I 1821 THE FORT. 105 ^*i clump of pines we saw a flock of partridges, and he suc- ceeded in killing one, after firing several shots. We came in sight of the Fort at dusk, and it is impossible to describe our sensjitions, when, on attaining the eminence that over- looks it, we beheld the smoke issuing from one of the chim- neys. From not having met with any footsteps in the snow, as we drew near our once cheerful residence, we had been agitaled by many melancholy forebodings. Upon entering the nov«r desolate building we had the satisfaction of embracing Captain Franklin ; but no words can convey an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our eyes on looking around. Our own misery had stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the contemplation of each other's emaciated figures ; but the ghastly counte- nances, dilated eye-balls, and sepulchral voices of Mr. Franklin and those Avith him were more than we could at first bear. Weary and starving", Franklin and his com- panions had toiled on to Fort Entei'prise ; but who can depict their feelings of dismay at rinding the houses in ruins and neither food nor Indians ? Still there was a faint hope that aid might arrive in time. A note from Mr. Back informed his com- mander that he had gone to seek the Indians, and to his energy, bravery, and j)erseverance, the final deliverance of the remains of the Expedition is mainly due. Eegarding his o\vn condition while looking for the Indians, Mr. Back said : — I was now so much reduced, that my shoulders were as if they would fall from my body, my legs seemed miablo 1 5 106 LIFE OF SIR JOHN EICHAKDSON. 1821 1 ^ M ? w ri i ? to support me, and in the disposition which I then found myself, had it not been for the remembrance of my friends behind, who relied on me for relief, as well as the persons of whom I had charge, I certainly should have preferred remaining where I was, to the miserable pain of attempting to move. Lieutenant Franklin and those with him at Fort Enterprise kept themselves alive by using skins which had been thrown away during their former wintering there, old bones, and scanty supplies of tripe de roche, Franklin undertook the cooking, but being too weak to pound the bones, one of the Canadians agreed to do that in addition to the more fatiguing work of collecting wood. The other two were so debilitated and depressed in spirits that they kept their beds, and scarcely ceased from shedding tears all day. * We had even to use much entreaty,' wrote Franklin, * be- fore we prevailed upon them to take the meals we had pre- pared. Our situation was indeed distressing, but in com- parison with that of our friends in the rear we considered it happy. Their condition gave us unceasing solicitude, and was the principal subject of our conversation. We perceived our strength decline every day, and every exer- tion began to be irksome ; when we were once seated, the greatest eifort was necessary in order to rise, and we had frequently to lift each other from our seats ; but even in this pitiable condition we conversed cheerfully, being san- guine as to the speedy amval of the Indians.' Thus terminated a month of unparalleled hor- i*.-. - Wi tMJ'lW T s 1821 1821 feanklin's party at the fort. 107 rors, endured in patient resignation to the will of God and firm faith in His mercy. Misery and want still encompassed them, but friendly sym- pathy and mutual aid went far to alleviate then- distresses and lengthen out their days, till the Indians, the messengers of life, sent by Mr. Back, arrived. be- 1, tt^m&^^m i^l^H qp 108 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 t CHAPTEE XII. 4 FORT ENTERPRISE — DEATH OF THE CANADIANS 5EMANDRE AND PELTIER THE WHOLE PARTY RAPIDLY LOSE STRENGTH CONSOLATION FROM RELIGIOUS SERVICES THEIR MENTAL POWERS BECOME WEAK THE INDIANS ARRIVE Vi ITH RE- LIEF REACH SLAVE LAKE— LETTER TO MRS. RICHARDSON — PROCEED TO YORK FORT THEY ARRIVE IN ENGLaND. 1821-1822. ■ I Dr. Richardson irnmediately began to clear away the filth which had accuirmlated in the hou.se, and aided by Hepburn cut and brought in the wood, while Mr. Franklin, who was too weak to aid in these laborious tasks, was employed in searching for bones and cooking. On November 1, Hep- burn's strength was found to be so rapidly failing, that he was advised by the officers to give up attempting the pursuit of deer, but try to kill a few partridges for the Canadians Peltier and Semandre, the former of whom died that evening, the latter early next morning, leaving only one of the voyageurs in a low and despondent state. In Franklin's journal are the following affecting en- tries at this time, which illustrate the courage, I82i 1821 CONSOLATION FROM RELIGIOUS SERVICES. 109 faithfulness to each other, and firm trust in God which carried these brave men through all their trials : — On the 3rc], the weather was very cold, though the at- mosphere was cloudy. This morning Hepburn was affected with swelling in his limbs ; his strength, as well as that of the doctor, was rapidly declining. They continued, how- ever, to be full of hope. Their utmost exertions could only supply wood to renew the fire thrice, and on making it up the last time we went to bed. Our stock of bones was ex- hausted by a small quantity of soup we made this evening. The toil of separating the hair from the skins, which in fact were our chief support, had now become so wearisome as to prevent us from eating as much as we should other- wise have done. November 4. — The Doctor and Hepburn, exclusive of their usual occupation, gathered some tripe de roche. I went a few yards from the house in search of bones, and returned (iuite fatigued, having found but three. The doctor again made incisions in Adam's leg (the remaining Canadian), which discharged a considerable quantity of water, and gave him great relief. We read prayers and a ])ortion of the New Testament in the morning and evening, as had been our practice since Dr. Richardson's arrival, and I may remark that the peribrmance of these duties always afforded us the greatest consolation, serving to re- animate our hope in the mercy of tlie Omnijiotent, who alone could save and deliver us. On the 5th, the breezes were light, with dark, cloudy weather, and some snow. The Doctor and Hepburn were getting much weaker, and the limbs of the latter were now greatly swolFen. They came into the house frequently in ^^!^ ^mmmmm 110 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1821 the course of the day to rest themselves, and when once seated, were unable to rise without the help of one another, or of a stick. Adam was for the most part in the same low state as yesterday, but sometimes he surprised us by getting up and walking with an appearance of increased strength. Ilis looks were now wild and ghastly, and his conversation was often incoherent. I observed that, in proportion as our strength decayed, our minds exhiliited symptoms of weak- ness, evinced by a kind of unreasonable pettishness with each other. Each of us thought the other weaker in in- tellect than himself, and more in need of advice and as- sistance. So trifling a circumstance as a change of place, recommended by one as being warmer and more com- fortable, and refused by the other from a dread of motion, frecpiently called forth fretful expressions, Avhich were no sooner uttered than atoned for, to be repeated perhaps in the course of a few minutes. The same thing often oc- curred when we endeavoured to assist each other in carry- ing wood to the fire ; none of us were willing to receive assistance, although the task was disproportionate to our strength. On one of these occasions, Hepburn was so con- vinced of this waywardness that he exclaimed, * Dear me, if we are spared to return to England, I wonder if we shall recover our understanding.' The long-looked and often prayed for relief at last came. Mr. Back, after much toil and suffer- inj:. found the Indians, and a party left Akaitcho's .; 'impment, on November 5, mth a small supply ot p*".>\'i3ions to enable them to travel quickly. "^K' - reached Fort Enterprise on the 7th, bringing deliverance to the faithful band who had long looked together into the valley with the dark 1821 1821 AT GREAT SLAVE LAKE. Ill shadows, and, bound together by the endearing ties of mutual suffering and sympathising aid, were thenceforward to be constant friends and loving brothers. The tender nursing of the Indians, and the powerful medicine of hope, long deferred, at last realised, enabled them, on November 16, after * having united in prayer and thanksgiving,' to set out for the hunting ground of the Indian chief, and to reach Fort Providence, Great Slave Lake, on December 11. At that post they were kindly received by the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company, and had also the happiness of joining Mr. Back. * Our feelings,' says Franklin in his narrative, ' on this occasion can be well imagined. We were deeply impressed with gratitude to him for his exertions in sending the supply of food to Fort Enterprise, to which, under Divine Provi- dence, we felt the preservation of our lives to be owing,' The following letter from Dr. Richardson to his wife is dated Great Slave Lake, April, 1822 : — We left our quarters at Fort Enterprise on the 4th of June last, and after travelling upon the ice until the be- ginning of July, embarked on the Coppermine Kiver, and reached the sea on the 18th of that month. Here the Indians left us, no promise or hopes of advantage being sufficient to induce them to encounter the privations and dangers attendant upon a journey along the coast. Not • withstanding this desertion, we launched our bark canoes mR ^mm 112 LIFE OF SIE JOHN BICHARDSON. 1822 /, t a on an icy sea, and commonced our voyage with only four- teen days' provisions. This scanty stock, however, with the addition of a few deer which we killed, and with some little fastings, lasted until the 2oth of August, when its total con-jumption and the broken state of the weather compelled us to quit the sea and attempt to cross the Barren Grounds. We did tolerably well, living on the casual products of the chase, until September 4, when we were surprised by the premature appearance of winter, and from that day we had to traverse a countr)' deeply covered with snow and destitute of wood. I shall not attempt to describe the miseries we endured in this journey, for no description can convey an adequate idea of them, and the bare detail would Vje too harrowing to your feelings. The deer fled to the south before the unusual inclemency of the season, and half our party perished through cold, famine, and fatijiue. The survivors were found bv the Indians on November 7, and these savages (as they have been termed) wept on beholding the deplorable condition to whicli Ave were reduced. They nursed and fed us Avith the same ten- derness they would have bestowed on their own infants, and, finally, on December 11, conveyed us to Fort Pro- vidence, the nearest post. Let them give thanks whom the Lord hath redeemed. I bless the Almighty Protector of the universe that He was l)lL'ased to comfort me under every trial by the consolation of religion. The conscioiLsness of being constantly under His all-seeing eye, and for ever an object of His paternal care, conjoined Avith His glorious declaration that ' all things work together for good to those AA'ho love Him,' supported me under every trial, and produced a calmness of mind and resignation to His Avill, under the prospect of approaching death, that I could not have previously hoped for. I ) ^ 1822 LETTER FROM GREAT SLAVE LAKE. 113 Wc rcturnetl to the Coppermine Kivcr, nearly opposite Fort Enterprise, alioiit the end of September, and attempted to cross it upon a raft of willows, but wanted the means of impelling it to the other side. To supply this defect, I undertook to swim across with a line, at a time when the temperature of the air was far below freezing point ; but my thin, emaciated, and exhausted frame could not withstand the effect of the cold, and I sank before I reached the other side, through an entire loss of power in all my limbs. My companions drew me to the shore with the line, and through their care I was restored to life ; and I now mention this circumstance only for the purpose of telling you, that as the waves closed over me, and I was losing the sight of the light of day, as I thought for ever, your happiness and that of my mother was my principal concern, and the last moments of recollection were spent in breathing a prayer for the temporal and eternal welfare of two so deservedly dear to me. Through the protection of God, I have escaped from still greater dangers than this, and Avhen I reflect upon the as- tonishing support I received from the habit of addressing myself to Him in every difficulty, I feel that I can never, by the utmost devotion of my future life, sufficiently ex- press my gratitude for His kindness in permitting my heart to be touched with a sense of my duty. If it were possible that any man could remain an infidel in such a situation, how dreadful would his suffering be ! Since my arrival at this post, I have, through plentiful fare, become fatter than ever I was before, and have re- covered from every painful effect of my late sufferings ; but you must be prepared to behold traces of age upon my face that have been impressed since we parted. This, how- ever, is the common lot of humanity, and I have only taken 114 LIFE OF SIH JOHN BICHABDSON. 1623 1 ■ ■ 1 If 1/ i 1^ f> ( V- d \ [, 1 1 I 1 a sudden start of you by a few years ; hereafter I hope we shall grow old together. I trust that the navigation will open about the end of next month, when we shall proceed to York Factory, to wait for the annual ship, which may be expected in August. The exact time of our arrival in England, depending on the weather, is of course uncertain, but it is possible that it may be in October, and I trust it may not be protracted beyond the first week in November. On the subject of where we are to meet, I shall write to you fully in my first English letter. Write to my mother and to my friends in Edinburgh, and say I am in the land oi" the living, as I have written to no one but yourself. May the God of mercies bless you. The party remained at Fort Providence about five months, awaiting the coming of spring to enable them to proceed by Fort Chipewyan to York Factor^', which they reached on July 14, 1822, having travelled in America, by land and water, including the voyage on the Arctic Sea, a distance of 5,550 miles. In the month of October they arrived in Eng- land, and were received by all classes of the people with the enthusiasm which awaits conquering heroes, and with the outbursts of grateful joy which come from loving hearts when those dear to them have returned from distant wanderings, after having for a long time been given up and mourned for as lost. v.. 1822 1822 ARRIVAL IN LONDON. llo lope we ; end of ctory, to August, g on the It it may beyond here we English inburgh, ritten to 3S you. } about *ing to jan to Illy 14, ad and Sea, a a Eng- people luering ful joy dear to s, after ourned ( CHAPTER XIII. LETTER FROM MR. HOOD's FATHER DR. KICHARDSON's REPLY THE PRAYER OF THE PIMXCESS ELIZAUPHII OF FRANCE SPENDS THE WINTER IN LONDON VISITS DUMFRIES. 1822-1823. When the expedition arrived in London, Dr. Richardson enjoyed the happiness of meeting his beloved wife, from whose affectionate society he had torn himself within a year of their union. The touching story of the privations and suffer- ings which had been heroically endured, during the retreat through the Barren Grounds, from the shores of the Arctic Sea, and at the ruined Fort, deeply moved the hearts of the British people ; and the singular generosity of character displayed by Dr. Richardson, combined with his persever- ance and success as a naturalist, drew to him many attentions from high quarters. One of the most grateful recognitions was re- ceived from the Rev. Dr. Hood, of Bury, Lancashire, in a touching letter, dated October 22, 1822 : — Will you permit the father of poor Robert Hood to ad- dress you as a friend, and from an overHowing heart retur I 2 mmmmim^ mmmm 116 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1822 ■If i )| 1/1 you liis most grateful thanks Ibr your exfraordinary kind- ness to his dear son. I ani (piite overwhelmed with the greatness of my loss and with the suddenness of the manner in whi(;h it was commiuiicated to me i'rom a newspaper. Alas! I feared that his frame was not sufficiently robust to encounter the appalling hardships attending on Captain Franklin's expedition, but he wotild engage in it. To you, my dear sir, I am indebted fjir more tlian I can express, for remaining at your own great hazard with my poor Robert along with the fliithful Hepburn, and supporting him when his strength failed, and especially for reviving in his mind tliose principles of religion, which I trust lie had never entirely forgotten. From wliat I understand, I fear that at the time when that abominable villain deprived ray poor boy of his precious life, he was so far exhausted as not to have been able to survive imtil the arrival of relief, even had not that dreadful event taken place. T shall be obliged to you to inform me if this opinion be correct. The dreadful sufferings which he must have endured during the return from the sea-coast made me shudder to think of. In a letter which he wrote me in July 1821, at the mouth of the Coppermine River, he siiys, that he has no appre- hension of want if obliged to return, because Indians were appointed to collect provisions in various parts for the supply of the expedition. Permit me to ask why this did not take place. Poor fellow, he informed me two years since that * Dr. Richardson was a very acute and good man.' He little suspected, at that time, how truly good you would prove to him ! Oh, sir, my loss is very great, and I am nearly broken-hearted. My dear, dear Robert, the pride of my little family, to whom I looked as a chief source of consola- tion in my declining years, is lost to me for ever in this life. 1822 18-^2 LETTER TO ME. HOOD S FATHER. 117 V kiiul- th the manner ■spapiT. robust Captain To you, 2xj)rc's.s, \y poor )porting V pving in he had , I fear ed ray usted as if relief, sliall be ct. The ring the link of. mouth I appre- ns were for the l;his did at *Dr. le little prove to nearly of my lonsola- his life. But God's will be done! Tiirougli tlio extraordinary kindness of Dr. Kichardson, I trust that ho will not be lost in the next. May (iod bless you and yours, and repay you that for which I am utterly bankrupt. Your sincere friend, KlClIAUl) IIuoD. To this letter Dr. RicliarJson replied : — October 29, 1822. Kkv. Sik, — I received your nffecting letter this morning, and sit down immediately to reply to the queries contained in it. My departed friend, I firmly believe, had never suf- fered the principles of religion to be absent from his mind, and we were throughout the whole course of the exjiedition deeply indebted to Captain Franklin for the excellent ex- ample he set us in the strict and regular performance of his religious duties. But it was during our perilous marcli across the Barren (xrounds that we unbosomed ourselves to each other, and our conversation tended to excite in us mutually a firm reliance on the Avisdom and beneficence of the decrees of the Almighty. Our sufferings were nev'er acute during the march, the sensation of hunger ceased after the third day of privation, and with the decay of strength, the love of life also decayed. Wo could calnilv contemplate the approach of death, and our feelings were excited only by the idea of tlie grief of our relatives. It was of you that your talented son thought and spoke in the latter weeks of his life. When obliged to abandon every- thing else, he carried a Prayer-book, from which the Service was daily read ; and I may add, as every anecdote of such a son is interesting to a father, that he delighted in repeat- ing the beautiful little prayer appended to one of Fenelon's lammm 118 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1822 H iii* I J:' I i\ •J i Avorlca, the exact title of Avhich I forget, but it is a series of short meditations or homilies for every day in the month. The grievous disappointment we experienced in not find- ing the supply of provision at Fort Enterjirise, solemnly jn'omised to us by the Indians, arose partly i'rom the natural iickleness of that people, which renders them exjjcrt in finding reasons for changing an aiTangement however im portant, but principally from two of their hunters having been drowned by the oversetting of a canoe. As usual on such an occasion, the rest threw away their clothing, brciko their guns, and thus by their mode of expressing their grief curtjiiled themselves of the means of procuring their food. The extraordinary ability of your now blessed son must appear from every page of Captain Franklin's narrative. His talents shed a lustre upon the expedition. For such a loss I can offer no consolation, but my prayer shall be di- rected to Him who alone is able to pour balm on the broken heart. With much esteem, I am, reverend sir. Your very sincere friend, John Richardson. The prayer referred to as that which Lieutenant Hood delighted in repeating, is said to have been one of the Princess Elizabeth of France, appended to a work of Fenelon, which, amongst others, had been presented by a lady before the expedition left England. Through the kindness of Mrs. Roe, sister of Mr. Hood, we are able to insert it : — What may befall me this day, O God, I know not. But I do know that nothing can happen to me which Thou hast not foreseen, ruled, wilh;d, and ordained from all eternity, and that suffices me. I adore Thy eternal and inscrutable 1822 series of month, lot find- olemnly ! natural q)ert in ver ini i havinix isual on ;5, broke eir grief r food. m must irrative. ' such a be di- broken 1S22 THE PRAYER OF PRINCESS ELIZABETH. 119 designs. I submit to them with all my heart through love to Thee. I accept all, I make unto Thee a sacrifice of all, and to this poor sacrifice I add that of my Divine Suviour. In His name, and for the sake of His infinite merits, I ask of Thee that I may be endowed with patience under suf- fering and with the perfect submission which is due to all which Thou vvillest or permittest. Dr. Richardson spent the winter in London, preparing the papers for Captain Franklin's nar- rative of the expedition, which was published early in 1823 ; and after spending the month of May with Captain Franklin's friends in Lincoln and Nottinghamshire, returned to Scotland. DSON. tenant e been )ended 's, had on left . Eoe, t. Biit lou hast ternity, rutable 120 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1823 CHAPTEE XIV. DR. Richardson's residence in Edinburgh — the zoological APPENDIX TO THE NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN PARRT's SECOND VOYAGE FRIENDSHIPS — LETTER TO HIS SISTER, MRS. CAR- RUTHERS APPOINTED SURGEON TO THE DIVISION OF MARINES AT CHATHAM. 1823-1824. Towards the end of November 1823 Dr. Ricliard- soii took up his residence in Edinburgh, but few particulars are known regarding his quiet family life and occupations during this season of retire- ment from public duty. In his study he was actively engaged with the preparation of the * Zoological Appendix to the Narrative of Captain Parry's Second Voyage of Discovery, made to the Polar Seas during 1821, 1822, 1823.' This work, descriptive of the mammalia and birds, was begun at the close of 1823 and published early in 1825. He was also looking forward to another botanical excursion to America, and lost no opportunity of making progress in the various branches of natural history. One of his near.est neighbours at this time, and 1823 1823 FEIENDSHIPS. 121 a friend of congenial spirit, was Mr. Francis Boott, then studying medicine at Edinburgh University. He obtained his degree as doctor in 1824, and shortly after settled in London, where he died on December 25, 1863. Dr. Boott was a native of Boston, in the United States, where he was bom in 1792. He was an able physician, but early retired from practice to devote himself to his favourite pursuit, the study of botany. His ' Illustrations of the Genus Carex ' is a beautiful and valuable work. The friendship formed in Edinburgh between Dr. Richardson and Dr. Boott was only interrupted by death. The sacred bond also included Robert Brown, the greatest botanist of his age, kind of heart, genial in his feelings, and purely benevo- lent in his disposition ; and Sir William Jackson Hooker, the promoter of science and all that is good and enlightening, and many others remark- able for their learning and uprightness. On January 23, 1824, Richardson wrote to Boott: — ' Many thanks, my dear sir, for the valued profile of our mutual friend Brown. It is not more prized by me as a faithful resemblance of a man whom I admire than as a memorial of the kindness and friendship of the donor.' Mrs. Boott, referring to the time when the two families lived opposite each other in Edinburgh, says of Dr. Richardson : ' His modest, unpretend- ing bearing would have led one to infer that his fame had never extended beyond his own door- 122 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHAEDSON. 1823 step. From the first hour my husband knew him, he was impressed with feelings of deep respect and high admiration, which he continued to cherish through life. *The Lauriston home was a pleasant, happy, tranquil one, where pleasant and social little parties often assembled. There we met Professor Jamieson and other agreeable people.' Mrs. Boott describes Mrs. Richardson as 'a most gentle, amiable, but very delicate lady, presiding over her house with an attention to all that could render it neat and attractive.' On December 16, 1823, in announcing to his mother the death of a relative's wife, while her husband and father-in-law were absent in London on business, he adds : ' On how frail a tenure mortal life depends, and with what assiduity ought we to prepare ourselves for our appearance before that Judge who may summon us into his presence to-morrow ! " Deep crieth i7nto deep." I was mourning little Janet's death, and now a dear friend and a mother snatched from a numerous family calls for the most heartfelt sympathy.' Little Janet was a sister's infant chUd, the wife of Mr. Charles Carruthers of Mousewald Place, in Annandale. A few days previously he had written to her the following letter : — My dear Sister, — I sit down to condole with you on the loss of our dear little Janet. The melancholy intelligence came very unexpectedly upon us. I had hoj>ed, indeed, ~1 " ■■ 1823 lj;24 SURGEON TO THE MARINES AT CHATHAM. 123 from the hist accounts we got, that the poor little innocent was recovering. The sweet-tempered thing was dear to us all, but God in his merciful dispensations often interferes to prevent our relying too much on earthly happiness. He has left us to mourn our loss, but we ought at the sjime time to adore His goodness. He has taken to Himself a guiltless being, who had experienced only the happy dawn of existence and undergone none of the sorrows which arise in after life from broken aifections and still more from the sins which beset the best of us. * Sufl'er little children to come unto me,' says our blessed Kedeemer, and we should not repine that He has called our darling to tlie realms of everlasting happiness. Although the decrees of God may, to our finite understandings, be inscrutable, yet we know that the Almighty loves us as a father loves his children, and that He who gave His only begotten Son as a ransom for us, will not afflict us beyond what is good for us. On January 11, 1824, he wrote to his mother : — I hope in the course of another year to receive an appoint- ment for collecting objects of natural history in America. The purpose of this appointment, if I succeed in obtaining it, is to enable me to give a lull account of the animals and plants within the limits of the Fur Trading Posts, and will be unattended with any hazard. If I go out I shall be absent from this country for two or perhaps three years, but will be resident during all the winter at one or other of the principal posts in the Fur Country, and have to travel in quest of plants only in the summer, and then merely from post to post. The arrangements, however, are not agreed upon, and as they may not eventually take place, I do not wish that my proposal should become public. • »WP 124 LIFE OF SIB JOHN BICHABDSON. 1824 He had even then formed the plan of his great work, 'The Fauna Boreali — Americana,' and was anxiously longing for an opportunity of completing the collections necessary for that undertaking. In the 9r>r' •/ of 1 824, the situation of surgeon to the division of Marines at Chatham became vacant, and the prospect of being appointed to it gave him great satisfaction, especially as leave of absence would be gaV'w>L ' fc^r the necessary time to allow him to accompli,) 7 '^ic contemplated Arctic ex- pedition. He had jiivt wi: timed from a short visit to Dumfries kIlu thi* virred, as we find him writing to his mother, f^ciii ; iTiburgh, on April 20. I arrived safely at home and found a notification of an appointment as surgeon of the marine division at Chatham. I shall proceed in the course of ten days to London, in consequence, and enter immediately upon my duties. The emoluments are a guinea a-day, with a house, coals, candles, and a field-officer's allowances. It is a very good appoint- ment, and is, I hope, the earnest of further promotion on the staff. I Sir John Barrow's letter must have been, in no ordinary degree, gratifying to Dr. Richardson. Admiralty, April 17, 1824. Dear Sir, — I have the pleasure to acquaint you that Lord Melville has appointed you to the Chatham Division of Marines, and that it will not prevent you from accompany- ing Franklin, if so disposed, as the business may in your Absence be done by deputy. I am, dear Sir, very faithfully yours, John Barrow. 1824 1824 CAPTAIN parry's F^TE. 125 {jreat was jting He lost no time in setting out to his new sphere of duty. On May 4 he is in London, and at the grand fete given by Captain Parry, on board the ' Hecla,' to nearly 500 people of fashion, before beginning his third voyage of discovery. The festivities are described in the Memoirs of Sir W. E. Parry : * Both ships were gaily dressed out, and the proceedings varied by a concert on board the " Hecla." Several of the best performers of the day, Madame Pasta among the number, had volunteered their services, and seemed to their delighted hearers as really inspired for the occa- sion, beyond their usual powers of pleasing. As the twilight closed in, a novel and brilliant effect was produced by coloured lamps hung amongst the rigging and along the bulwarks of the vessels.' ' It certainly was,' writes Captain Parry's sister, ' a beautiful sight, and under other circumstances we should have thoroughly enjoyed it.' A few days later. Dr. Richardson began his duties at Chatham, and for some time was so busily engaged as to have little time for writing letters. 126 LIFE OF 8IB JOHN BICHAKD30N. 1625 i. CHAPTER XV. THE EXPEDITION SAILS FROM LIVERPOOL — RECEIVED WITH GREAT KINDNESS AT NEW YORK AT ALBANY JOURNEY TO NIAGARA — LAKE ONTARIO LAKE HURON ARRIVAL AT FORT WILLIAM — FORT CHIPEWYAN — SLA\'E LAKE THE MACKENZIE RIVER — BEAR LAKE RIVER FORT FRANKLIN. 1825. Captain Franklin's plan for his second expe- dition, as laid before Government, was to proceed to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence, by sea, along the coast to the north-western ex- tremity of the American continent, on the one hand, and from the Mackenzie to the Coppermine on the other. The plan was approved, and he received orders to make the necessary prepara- tions and take the command. Associated with him were his friends Dr. Richardson, Lieutenant Back, and Mr. E. N. Kendall, who joined the party as assistant-surveyor. Mr. Thomas Drum- mond was assistant natiuulist. In addition to his duties as surgeon and naturalist, Dr. Richardson was appointed to survey the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, while Captain Franklin was endeavouring to reach Icy Cape. ^p 1625 18^5 THE PARTY AT LIVERPOOL. 127 Every precaution was taken to prevent a recur- rence of the disasters which befell the first expe- dition, and the party sailed from Liverpool for New York on February 12, 1825. From the ex- perience formerly gained. Captain Franklin and the promoters of the journey had been enabled to make arrangements for travelling as rapidly as possible and obtaining sufficient supplies. The position of afiPairs in the fur trading countries had also assumed a most favourable character. The Hud.son's Bay Company had now amalgamated with the North-West Company, and were carrying on a peaceful commerce throughout the length and breadth of the Fur Countries. The Indians, well-treated and happy, acquiesced in the absence of the ' fire-water,' which was no longer carried to the north, and were beginning to listen to the missionaries, as well as becoming gradually more amenable to the influence of the traders, which has always been beneficial when not perverted by commercial rivalry. From Liverpool, Dr. Richardson wrote : * I have only time to inform you of my safe arrival here on Saturday night, and that we sail this morning at ten o'clock, in the " Columbia," New York packet, an excellent vessel with every accommodation. The merchants of Liverpool have paid us the ut- most attention, and seem to regret that our stay here is so short that they are not able to show us more.' After a favourable voyage of twenty-seven days they arrived at New York, and found the season r II !l 128 LIFE OP 8IE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1825 h ; ( so early and the spring so far advanced as to give them the prospect of a pleasant journey through the interior. The following interesting account of the reception which the party experienced at New York, and of the journey to Great Bear Lake, is in Dr. Richardson's own words : — At New York we were received with much hospitality, and I may say kindness, by the upper class of citizens. "We spent a very agreeable week with them, and in the manners and characters of the friends and acquaintances we made could trace no resemblance to the portraits of the national character drawn by travellers who have lately given their observations to the world. I suspect that few of these flying visitors had an opportunity of studying the habits of the class of people to whom I refer, for although the leading men are accessible enough in their public capa- cities, the distinction of ranks seems to be preserved in pri- vate intercourse more tenaciously in the republican United States than in monarchical Britain. The pride of birth reigns in full sway on this side of the Atlantic, tempered however by good sense and concealed by the veil of good breeding. The higher orders have in fact inherited many feelings from their English ancestors more suitable to a monarchical than to a republican form of government, and possess, particularly the Federal party, a liking to English measures and men which might easily be cherished into a strong attachment. We left New York in a steam-boat, and proceeded up the River Hudson to Albany, landing, by the way, at West Point, to visit the Military Academy established there on a large scale. The Hudson is a magnificent river, and much of its scenery pos-sessea a grand, almost Alpine r 1825 TRAVELLING IN THE UNITED STATES. 129 character. We were entertained by the Governor of tlie State, General De Witt Clinton, a i)olished gentleman of great scientific attainments, and by Van Ranselaer, the proprietor of a county which bears his name. We accom- panied the governor to church, and the clergyman, the Rev. Dr. Christie, a presbyterian, prayed in express terms for the success and safety of the expedition. At Albany, we hired three coaches with four horses each to convey us to Lewistown, a distance of about 420 miles. Our party consisted of five officers, four marines, and ]Mr. Buchanan, the British consul, who came with us from New York, and accompanied us during our journey through the United States and Upper Canada, facilitating our progress greatly by his intimate knowledge of the route, modes of travelling, and manners of the inhabitants. The American horses are spirited animals, and the coaches very light vehicles, with accommodation for nine passengers in each, so that we had some spare room ; but as our luggage was heavy, and the roads extremely deep from the recent break- ing up of the winter, it was necessary for the sake of expedition to travel as we did. Accustomed as we had been to the luxury of an English inn, we found those in the United States inferior. They are, however, equal or superior to the general run of inns on the continent of Europe, and we never suffered from the intrusion of people not of our party, but had always a sitting-room appropriated to our use and separate bed- rooms, the size of the inns on this line of route admit- ting of this accommodation. After we struck off, however, from the great western road to Buffalo, in order to go to Lewistown on the Niagara, we found, as might be expected from the smaller thoroughfare, less accommodation for so large a party. 130 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1625 1,1 Wo arrived at one of the smaller inns about midnighi after the family had retired to rest, found the door on the latch, and walked in, but experienced some difficulty, as it was a frosty night, in getting the inmates to (juit their warm beds to provide us with supper. Mr. Buchanan, however, hit upon an expedient which answered admirably. He sent our Highland piper into the long passiige leading to the bed-rooms, and he had not marched twice along it to the tune of the * Gathering of the Clans,' before the landlord, his wife, and five or six female attendants, hurried forth. They took all this in good part, said it was delight- ful music, cooked some ham for our supper, with their usual expedition, and spread clean sheets on the beds which they had left, and which on our retiring to them we found still warm. The bed-rooms we got were the best in the house, and the good people, in resigning tliem to us, moat probably shifted but poorly themselves lor the remainder of the night. In travelling through the newly-settled States, particularly in the spring, ham is almost the only article of provision that can be got. It has the advantage, however, of being cooked in a very short time. The mo- ment we arrived at an inn, the spacious frying-pan was placed on the large wood fire, and we never had occasion to wait above twenty minutes for dinner or supper. At another inn we witnessed a rather amusing display of that boisterous attachment to equality which is so often mistaken for liberty by those who have nothing at stake and who know nothing about the matter. After we had taken possession of our seats in the coaches and were about to drive off, a man made a show of seating himself beside us, but was told by the driver that they were not stage coaches, being hired for the sole use of the party that oc- cupied them. One of the dram-drinkers, of whom there 1825 1825 THE FALLS OP NIAGARA. 181 idnighi on the ,y, as it it their chanan, iiirably. leading ilong it ore the hun'ied delight- th their Is which re found in the us, most ■mainder y-settled the only Ivantage, The mo- -pan was occasion • lisplay of so often ; at stak(; • we had ere about ;lf beside not stage that oc- om there I are always several lounging at the door of an inn, obsciTod tliat in a free country we had no right to engage more scats than we could fill, nor to prevent a citizen i'rom taking a vacant one. This observation was not made directly to us but to one of the bvstanders, who answered that if we were extravagant enough to pay for what we did not use, no person in a free country had a right to prevent us. This produced a rejoinder, and when we drove off they seemed inclined to decide by blows the cause of liberty of opinion. In the meantime, the gentleman who wished to ride with us had quietly taken a seat beside the driver. As this was done without permission, Mr. Buchanan desired him to come down. He did so, and approacliing the coach door, siiid to the Consul in a humble tone, ' Governor, will you j)ermit me to go only twelve miles to see my wife and iimiily ?' His request was now complied with, but on reaching his desti- nation he walked off without even bidding us good night. From Lewistown we crossed the Nia. ira to Queenstctwn, on the Canada side, and went about seven miles up the river to visit the celebrated falls. Many have endeavoured to describe them, and I think with very little success. I shall not make a new attempt, but merely remark that notwith- standing all I had read on the subject, and the various drawings I liad seen, the grandeur of the scene lar exceeded my previous conceptions of it. On comparison with this all the other cataracts which I have seen dwindle into per- fect insignificance. It is a stupendous monument of the power of the Creator of the universe, who wields at will an element that mccks the utmost strength of man. From Niagara we proceeded to Fort George, situated on Lake Ontario, at the influx of the river, and crossing the lake landed at York, the capital of Upper Canada. After spending twenty-four hours at this place, we proceeded in K 2 132 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1825 !) i\ ii ! ') I'll t 1. ,1' hH ll carts by miserable roads and through a thinly settled country to Lake Simcoe, which we crossed, and descending the Natawasaga Kiver to Lake Huron, arrived in a few days at Penetanguishene, a naval depot, situated in one of the bays of the lake. The most advanced Canadian settlements approach Penetanguishene, but the cleared spots are mere patches in the desert, and the roads by which they commu- nicate are only in some instances passable for horses, being for the most part only to be traced by an Indian or ex- perienced backwoodsman. It is in this quarter that the Canadian Company have purchased from Government the reserves, and I have no doubt but that through their exertions it will be completely settled in a few years. At Penetanguishene we were joined by twenty-four Canadian voyageurs from Montreal, and on April 23, the whole party embarked in two large canoes, which, toge- ther with some stores, had been Ibrwarded from Lower Canada the joreceding season. In these canoes we coasted Lakes Huron and Superior, and arrived at Fort William on May 10, having suffered a few days' detention, partly from ice but principally from high winds. Fort William, previous to the union with the Hudson's Bay Company, was the principal depot of the north-west traders. Here we exchanged our large canoes for four smaller . ones adapted to river navigation, and separating into two parties. Captain Franklin and I pushed forward in a partially laden canoe, whilst Messrs. Back, Kendall, and Drummond followed with the stores. We arrived on June 15 at Cumberland House, which was our win- tering quarters the first year on our former journey, and it was also the residence, during last winter, of our seamen, >N ho, with three boats and some stores under their charge, left England in June 1824, in the Hudson's Bay ship. ■•L 1825 settled ending 1825 FORT CHIPEWYAN. 133 being their toge- They resumed their voyage this season on June 2, and we overtook them on the 29th of the same month, in time to assist them in reaching and crossing the lieiglit of land which separates the waters flowing towards Hudson's Bay from those which full into the Arctic Sea. Owing to the unusual dryness of the season, we experienced much difficulty in launching the boats through the small streams leading to and from this portage, which is named the Methy carrying-place, and particularly through the small Mothy River, which is nearly thirty miles long, and, this season, nowhere offered sufficient water to float the boats, ex- cept in small pools with long almost dry fords inter- vening. We had, in consequence, to carry the cargoes nearly the whole way, either partially or entirely through swamps, from Avhich at every step the mosquitoes assailed us in myriads. The carrying-place itself is twelve miles long over a high ridge of sand hills, and here the boats were partly carried on men's shoulders au:l partly launched the entire distance. Having completed this tedious and labo- rious operation, during which a considerable numl)er of men were disabled by swellings of the legs, we descended the Athabasca IJiver, and reached Fort Chipewyan, on the Lake of the Hills, on July 15. By referring to INIac- kenzie's Voyages, you will perceive that it was from this post that that enterprising traveller set out on June '^, 1789, on that memorable voyage to the Arctic Sea, in which he discovered and navigated the river that bears his name, and opened up to the fur trade a large tract of productive country. It was necess.'iry for Captain Franklin to remain at Fort Chipewyan until the arrival of Mr. Back, in order that he might discharge such of the Canadian voyageurs as were to return to Canada this season, and to make other arrange- \ 134 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHAEDSON. 1825 l> ' lli ll V nienta ; but that the boats, which were now four in number, an additional one having been borrowed from the Company and heavily laden with upwards of two tons of pemmican Ijesides other stores, might be no cause of delay after the airival of the canoes, I went on with them on July 21. The canoes, under Messrs. Back and Kendall, arrived at Chipewyan on the 23rd. Drummond was left at Cumber- land House, to enable him to botanize on the Saskat- chewan. On the 25th, Captain Franklin, having sent back a canoe with the voyageurs whose services were no longer needed, set out after me with the remaining three canoes. The boats reached Slave Lake on July 20, only two days later than we arrived at the siime place, on the second year of our former journey, in canoes: a liifference in speed attributable solely to our accpiaintance w^ith the route and mode of travelling and the previous arrangements so care- fully made by Captain Franklin. After passing two days under the hospitable roof of Mr. McVicar, who was so kind to us after our former sufferings, I set out again, and coasting the southern shore of Great Slave Lake, entered the Mac- kenzie. The current of this stately river swept us rapidly along, and on August 3, we arrived at Fort Simpson, situated on the inHux of the Kiver of the Mountains, and at seven in the morning of the Gth, landed at Fort Norman, about 200 miles farther down. These two posts are thir- teen days of winter travelling apart. At Fort Norman I left a portion of the stores, a boat and a select crew for Captain Franklin, and going on with the remainder ascended the current of Bear Lake River, which joins the Mackenzie about thirty miles below Fort Norman. Bear Lake Kiver has a rapid current, the voyage down it being performed in eight or nine hours, while its ascent occupies three or four days. It is seventy-six miles long. We arrived at Fort ^■■1 1825 MACKENZIE KIVER. 135 Franklin, then in progress of erection, on August 10. Mr. Dease, a chief trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had come down with a party of men in the month of June to make preparation for us, did not expect to see us before September 25. Captain Franklin and his party reached Fort Norman the day after I left it, and sending Mr. Back up with the canoes and stores, he and Mr. Kendall proceeded down the river in the boat with a crew of seven men, including the Esquimaux interpreter. On the third day they passed Fort Good Hope, in latitude G7° 28', the last of the Company's posts, and in three days more reached the sea. The river flows into the sea through many channels, separated by low deltas, which are mostly covered by spring floods. Whale Island of Mackenzie, the limit of his voyage, is one of the outermost of these deltas, but it is surrounded by the fresh water of the river, and it was not until the boat had approached Garry's Island, thirty miles seaward, that the clear siilt water was per- ceived, separated from the muddy waters of the river by a well-defined line. Captain Franklin landed on Garry's Island exactly six month' .roni the daie of siiiling from England, and it will excite the sympathy of his friends to learn that he then displayed for the first time a silk flag sewed by his lamented wife in her last illness, and delivered with a presentiment, alas too true, that they were never to meet again in this world. Garry's Island lies in latitude 69° 29' and longitude 135° 41' west, and from its summit they saw many white and black whales and seals. After remaining a day for the purpose of making astro- nomical observations and enjoying the contemplation of a sea clear of ice, they set out on their return, and arrived at Fort Franklin on September 6. During their absence we had given that name to our winter abode. They 136 LIFE OF SIR JOHN BICHABDSON. 182S saw several Esquimaux encampments recently deserted, but were not so fortunate as to find any of the people of that nation. Presents, however, of iron work were left at their huts, and we have had the satisfaction of learning in the course of this winter, through the medium of the Sharp Eyes who frequent Fort Good Hope, that these presents were found by the people for whom they were intended, and have inclined thejn strongly in our favour. The ex- pedition travelled, from the date of our leaving New York, March 26, till our reunion at Fort Franklin on September 6, including a survey of the north side of Bear Lake, which I made in Captain Franklin's absence, 5,160 miles, of which 596 were through the United States and the set- tlements in Upper Canada. We shall resume our labours as soon as the rivers are clear of ice, which will be towards the end of June. At present the whole party are in good health and high spirits, and sanguine as to their expecta- tions cf success. :w 'V4. I ' .tt— ' . ' til IB2S 1825 LETTER PROM PENETANGUISHENE. 187 CHAPTER XVI. THE EXPEDITION AT PENETANGUISHENE, ON LAKE HURON TIDINGS OF MRS. FRANKLIN's DEATH AN EARLY SEASON MANNER OF TRAVELLING NUMBER OF THE PARTY — THE MAC- KENZIE RIVER WINTER AMUSEMENTS AT FORT FRANKLIN DOG-RIB INDIANS A WOLF BIRTH OF A CHILD DINNER ON THE OCCASION — A BALL. *-- i 1825-1826. We have given Dr. Richardson's lucid account of the progress of the party until they settled down for the winter at Fort Franklin, on Great Bear Lake. A few extracts from letters which he wrote from the stations at which the expedition halted, supply additional information. On April 22, 1825, they are at Penetanguishene, on Lake Huron, and he writes : — This is the most advanced naval post on the lakes, and the establishment consists of a lieutenant, assistant-surgeon, and five men, with a military detachment of an officer and twenty men. The assistant-surgeon and military oflficer are married to English ladies, who reside here amongst the woods. The most advanced settlers, in Upper Canada, are within a few miles Pi OT I 138 LIFE OP SIE JOHN BICHABDSON. 1»23 \i I* i< I had written thus far when an express arrived with letters for Captain Franklin, conveying the melancholy tidings of Mrs. Franklin's death. Although this event was in some measure expected, it has cast a gloom over the party, and it will be long before Captain Franklin regains his usual How of spirits. He bears his great loss with Christian resignation, but he will feel it more acutely when he returns to his desolate mansion in Devonshire Street. The exertion necessary for carrying on the expedition will occupy his mind for the present. From Fort William, Lake Superior, lie wrote : — Every exertion is being made in the interior to provide abundance of provision on our route, and all the accounts we have received are highly satisfactory, so that, compared with our last journey, tliis promises to be a party of pleasure. The season is unusually early, and we have arrived here more than a month sooner than canoes loaded like ours have ever done, and nearly a fortnight before any of the light canoes for thirty years past. This gives us great hopes of arriving in very good time at our winter quarters. Of his companions he remarks : ' Mr. Back you know already ; Mr. Kendall is an exact picture of Captain Franklin, in size, face and temper ; Drum- mond is the most indefatigable collector of speci- mens of natural history I have ever seen.' From Lake Winnipeg, on June 6, 1825, he mentions that he and Captain Franklin were push- ing forward in order to overtake the boats sent out from England in 1824, and adds : — .V. 1825 1825 MANNER OF TBA YELLING. 139 [ witli choly event er the egains with when Street. ' As it may be amusing to you to know something of our mode of travelling, I shall note down some of the details. At two o'clock, or half-past two if the morning is dark. Captain Franklin or myself call the guide, who, if the weather will permit him to proceed, awakens the men. They are on their legs in an instant, and every man marches to the beach with his blanket under his arm. Part of them put the canoe into the water and load her, whilst others take down our tent, and roll up the bedding, in which operation we assist. In twenty minutes, or at the longest half an hour, we are all embarked ; and the men, after their morning dram, which on this voyage we have always had in our power to give them, strike up a cheerful song and paddle away vigorously at the rate of about four miles an hour. Every half-hour they lie on their paddles for about two minutes to rest a little and light their pipes ; hence these pauses are termed by them pipes. At nine o'clock, we put ashore to breakfast. My occupation is to fetrike a light, and I therefore jump ashore at once with my fire-bag in my hand. Captain Franklin brings a handful of dry twigs, or grass, or a piece of birch -bark. Two of the men fetch dry wood; afire is speedily kindled; our servant, who in the meantime had been filling the kettle, hangs it to the trepied or tripod — three sticks, which another man has by this time tied together and set up. Others of the party are employed in landing the canteen and basket, containing the cold meat, bread, tea, sugar, tea- cups, plates, &c., and a piece of painted canvas being spread, every thing is put in order. In about a quarter of an hour after landing, the kettle boils and the tea is made. Another quarter suffices Captain Franklin and myself to swallow it. The guide and serv^ant, who have been em- ploying their mouths as well as their hands, drink a sip of ^^^ 140 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1825 tea, wash the dishes, and pack them up again. The whole business is generally finished in three-quarters of an hour. Whilst we are at breakfast the cook of the day warms the men's pemmican, and they generally use so much greater despatch, as to get a two minutes' nap in the sun. After breakfast we proceed as before, paddling and al- ternately singing and smoking. At three o'clock a pipCj somewhat longer than usual, affords the men time to take a mouthful or two of pemmican, and we lunch. At eight o'clock, we put ashore for the purpose of encamping, and use the same despatch as at breakfast. Whilst the crew are unloading. Captain Franklin and I light the fire. As soon as the baggage is secured and covered with painted canvas, the canoe is landed and timied up. * Some of the men bring wood, and others pitch the tent. For supper, we have tea, cold meat, eggs, cheese, butter, itc, according to the state of our larder. The men also boil their kettle and chat a little while they are waiting for it. After sup- per, we spread our beds, the servant makes a good fire, hangs on a kettle with provisions for the morrow, and retires to rest. The men's kettle is hung up at the same time, and if the night is likely to prove rainy they sleep under the canoe ; if fine, on the softest turf that is near. After a hard day's work they are all asleep within little more than an hour fi-om the time of landing. As we sleep sometimes in the canoe during the day, we do not go to bed till ten or eleven. Sixty miles is considered a good day's journey, but two days ago we travelled about eighty, having pad lied all night. This is frequently done when crossing a lake, as the men rest when detained by wind. From Fort Chipewyan he wrote, on July 20 : — The gentlemen of the country have everywhere exerted 1825 1825 THE ICACKENZIE BIVES. 141 themselves in providing for our party, and we have found at the different posts various luxuries set aside for ourselves. The present crews of the boats are eighteen men. Mr. Dease, the gentleman employed in building our winter residence and laying up provisions for us, has fourteen more, exclusive of his wife and four children, the inter- preter, his wife and children, so that, wdth the officers and their servants, our party, during the winter, will consist of fifty souls. For even a larger number the lake furnishes an abundant supply of fish. We expect to reach Bear Lake about August 18 or 20 — in ample time to commence the autumn fishen* and make ourselves snug before the set- ting in of the winter. We have hitherto come on well and pleasantlv, and our prospects for the future look bright. This letter will be sent by a return canoe, and may perhaps reach you this season. My next, written from Slave Lake, is not likely to come to hand before next autumn, so that you have a long interval of silence to look forward to. It is nothing, however, to the anxiety and delay I am doomed to suffer, for your letters written within a month of my leaving England cannot reach me till the beginning of next summer, and your reply to this will meet me on my return. At Fort Norman, a few miles from the junction of Great Bear Lake River with the Mackenzie, he wrote : — The Mackenzie River is a magnificent stream, deep enough to float a first-rate man-of-war, and from one to ten miles broad, according as it is firee or crowded with islands. The current is very rapid and we descend it cheerily. As far as we have come the country is pleasant, in some spots picturesque, and everywhere well wooded. Our winter m. 142 LIFE OP SIE JOHN EICHARDSON. 1825 i quarters this year will not be so far north as Fort Enter- prise, and every account we have received represents Bear Lake and its environs as abounding in fish and game. Two of our men who went with Mr. Dease this spring and have come down to meet us, state that, at the time they came away, from 100 to 500 fish of good quality were taken in the nets daily. From their winter quarters at Bear Lake, he wrote to his mother, on September 6 : — 1 have the satisfaction of informing you that after six months of constant but pleasant travelling, we have arrived here, by the blessing of God, in perfect safety and with a large stock of provisions and stores. Ovir house was nearly completed on our arrival, and as we have plenty of car- penters and smiths it will shortly be put in excellent order. Our fishing yields daily thirty or forty large trout weighing from twenty to fifty pounds each, and we have abundance of venison at a short distance, so that we look forward to good cheer throughout our stay in this quarter. There are five officers of us, including Afr. Dease, the Hudson's Bay gentleman, who had charge of our men previous to our arrival, so that we do not want for society. The greater part of our men, amounting in all to twenty-five, are Scotchmen, and very well behaved. To amuse them we have a bagpiper and a violin, and intend to be merry as well as comfortable. The kindness of my Chatham friends provided me with a fine large blanket of worked worsted, which I have got sjife here, and find quite a luxury. Mar- garet's bottle of pickles and that of Cayenne pepper have also crossed all i.ho carrying- places in safety, and I intend to open them, together with a bottle of cherry brandy from Chatham, on Christmas Day. 1825 1825 POET FRANKLIN. 143 are I have been about 200 miles along Bear Lake since my arrival, found plenty of rein-deer, and came back to the house with a boat-load of provision. Captain Franklin, with another party, has been down to the sea, which is about eight days' journey from this. There were many deer on the coast, some of which he killed, and he saw no ice. He returned yesterday. Everything has favoured us in our progress hitherto. We have met with nuich at- tention at the different posts, and the country where our winter residence is fixed is well wooded and abounds in provision. From what Captain Franklin saw in his journey, he is in high hopes of success next season, so that perhaps we may not see each other after parting next Hummer till we meet in England. If he reach the ship sent out to meet him in Behring's Straits, it is not likely that he will return to this station. I hope to hear from you by the Hudson's Bay ship which sails in May, although the letters will not reach me till spring ; and trust that they will bring intelligence of the health and happiness of all the iamily. Give my kind love to them all and to Mr. and Mrs. Carnithers. The latter I hope will write and give me a detail of the doings in her neighbourhood — how the farmers thrive, and whether the miller's wife rejoices in the clack of the mill — what enterprising young man of her acquaintance has not thriven because his wife would not let him — in short, all the gossip of Mousewald. If she would add a little spice of the transactions on the high road to Caerlaverock so much the better, as I do not find my correspondents in that quarter over communicative. Do not let her or any of the family who are kind enough to favour me with a few lines stand upon the punctilio of being first written to. It was only to-day that Captain Franklin decided to send a despatch with an account of RWi 144 LIFE OF BIB JOHN BICHABDSON. 1828 his discoveries.* The messenger departs to-morrow, and as I have official letters to write, I have not time for many private communications, and must make one letter serve for several. His letters from Fort Franklin are full of cheer- ful sayings for the loved ones at home, whose hearts were beating anxiously lest the disasters of the former journey should be repeated. The second expedition, however, was not man*ed by misfor- tunes or privations. Mrs. Carruthers, from whom he hoped to get all the harmless tittle-tattle of the agricultural parish of Mousewald, in Annandale, and some account of the family at Rosebank, his mother's residence, was the sister Margaret whose pickles and Caj^enne pepper were to season their white-fish dinner at Christmas. The following letter to her not only gives a glimpse of the life at Great Bear Lake, but of the kindl^% loving, and cheerful disposition of his mind : — Fort Franklin, February 6, 1826. My dear Sister, — I received your letter of May 1, 1825, on the 16th of last month, and am much obliged by your kind remembrance. Intelligence from home is most gratifyir^^ in this remote quarter, and the disappointment of n having tidings by every opportunity proportionately severe. Your letter was a great gratification to me. Before leaving London, Captain Franklin's portrait and mine were taken by Mr. Philips, one of the first artists in that city, and I observe by the newspapers which we have 1826 1826 LETTER TO MRS. CARRUTHERS. 145 r<'ceivt'(l thut tlicy luave bern hung up at tlie annual ex- hil)ition of the Koyal Acadnmy, and mucli admired for the style of painting and correctness of the likenesses. The people in England seem to be going mad about raih-oads, tunnels, steam-engines, air-engines, mines, aneams over the trees at half- past ten in the evening, and I can lie in bed at midnight and read the smallest print by tlie light which passes through our pirchment windows. ]Many plants are already in flower, and the mosfjuitoes become troublesome. I set out to-morrow to exanune the tracks on the borders of Bear Lake Iliver. Cajitain Franklin ibllows ir 152 LIFE OF SIR JOHN EICHARDSON. 1826 with the boats and the rest of the party on the 22nd. We shall be three days at Fort Nomian, taking in provisions and making ether arrangements, and will stop a day at Fort Good Hope in our way down the river, the date of arrival on the sea- coast being settled for July oth or 6th, when we hope the ice will be breaking up. Everything wears a favourable aspect, and trusting in the all-powerful I>rotection of the beneficent Ruler of the Universe, who has hitherto sustained us, we hope to return successful and in Siifety. May the same Omnipotent Being guard and pro- tect you, my dearest Mary, shall ever be the prayer of your affectionate husband. On June 25, the expedition reached Fort Nor- man, and, after having taken in additional stores, set out for the sea. At the expansion of the Mackenzie River, where the different channels branch off. Captain Franklin encamped to make the necessary arrangements for the separation of the parties. The evening was spent in kindly in- tercourse with each other. * We felt,' says Franklin, ' that we were only separating to be employed on services of equal interest, and we looked forward with delight to our next meeting, when after a successful termination we might recount the incidents of our respective voyages. The best supper our means afforded was provided, and a bowl of pimch crowned the parting feast. * By six in the morning of the 4th, the boats were all laden and ready for departure. It was impossible not to be struck with the difference between our present complete jtate of equipment and that on which we embarked on our .- 1826 1826 DK. EICHAEDSON'S EXPEDITION. 153 former disastrous voyage. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty supply of food, we were now about to com- mence tlie sea voyage in excellent boats, stored with three months' provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western party embarked first. He and his companions saluted us with three hearty cheers, which were warmly returned; and as we were passing round the point that was to hide them from our view we perceived them also embarking.' Captain Franklin • aspatched Dr. Eichardson on this special service, in accordance with his instruc- tions from Earl Bathurst, and before setting out to the Avestward, delivered to him a letter in which he says :— I am directed, if I should have been able to accumulate at the mouth of the Mackenzie liiver stores and provisions sufficient, to despatch Dr. Richardson with Mr. Kendall and five or six men in one of the boats to examme the intermediate coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers. The present amount of stores and provisions happily affords me the means of fulfilling his lordship's directions ; and as there might be some insecurity in a party going in one boat along this portion of the coast, and it would not contain sufficient provision for the voyage, I have caused another boat to be built at Bear Lake in anticipation of being able to furnish two for this service. You are therefore hereby directed to take under your charge Mr. Kendall and the ten men appointed to accom- pany you, and to proceed in the ' Dolphin ' and ' Union ' to examine the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers; and on reaching the latter, you are to leave the boats and proceed with your party to the Portuge r(.>ad, i\! i I 154 LIFE OF SIE JOHN EICHAKDSON. 182G which communicates with that part of Great Bear Lake tliat you visited last autumn and named Dease River. Captain Franklin proceeded westward as far as Return Reef, more than a thousand miles distant from Fort Franklin. Dr. Richardson's party, doub- ling Cape Bathurst and Cape PaiTj-, and passing through the Dolphin and Union Strait, between Wollaston Land and Cape Krusenstern, reached the Coppermine River, thus connecting the dis- coveries made during the former expedition, to the eastward in Coronation Gulf, with those of Captain Franklin, on this occasion, to the west- ward of the Mackenzie. These surveys, conjoined with Captain Beechy's, defined the northern out- line of the American Contment from Behring's Straits eastwards, through sixty degrees of longi- tude, with the exception of 160 miles adjacent to Point Barrow, which remains unexplored. Dr. Richardson's party arrived at the mouth of the Coppermine River, on August 8, and the fol- lowing day ascended as far as Bloody Fall, where the boats were drawn up and abandoned. They then commenced their march along the bank of the river to its bend at the Copper Mountains, and thence straight across the hills in the direction of the mouth of Dease River, which was reached on August 18. 'On Sunday, the 20th,' says Dr. Richardson, 'prayers were read, and thanks re- turned to the Almighty for His gracious protection and the success which had attended our voyage.' 182G 1826 LETTER TO CAPTAIN FRANKLIN. 155 1 Several daj's of anxiety were passed here, the part}- from Fort Franklin not having arrived with the boat, and to walk round Great Bear Lake, a distance of 300 miles, would have entailed much fatigue and suffering, and could not have been accomplished in less than three weeks. On the evening of the 24th, the boat and several canoes made their appearance, and the expedition reached the Fort on September 1, having travelled, by land and water, 1,980 statute miles in seventy days. The western party arrived on September 21, having travelled 2,048 statute miles, of which 610 Avere through parts not previously known. Mean- time Dr. Richardson, eager to extend his geologi- cal researches, as far as the season would permit, had gone in a canoe to the Great Slave Lake, after having written a despatch for Captain Frank- lin : — Fort Franklin, Great Bear Lake, September 4, 1826. Sir, — I have the honour to acquaint you that in pur- suance of your order, I proceeded with a detachment of the expedition to examine the coast between the Mackenzie and the Coppermine Rivers. After separating from you on July 4, we pursued the easternmost channel of the Mackenzie until the 7th of that month, when finding that it distributed itself by various outlets, of which the more easterly were not navigable for our boats, we chose a middle one, and that night got into brackish water with an open view of the sea in latitude «;9° 20' north, and longitude 133° 24' west. On the 11th, in latitude CO' 42' north, and lonLMtude 132° 10' west, the ;\ •^T" ^^iPB^^P ^■i ' f ' 15(5 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1826 water was perfectly salt, the sea partially covered with drift ice and no land visible to seaward. We experienced considerable difficulty in crossing the estuaries of several rivers, which we deemed to be the outlets of the shallow channels of the Mackenzie, that we had left to the eastward, and suffered besides some deten- tion from ice and bad weather, and it was not until July 18 that we got entirely clear of the widely-spreading mouths of the jMackenzie and of a large lake of brackish water Avhich seemed to receive one of the branches of that river. The navigation across these wide estuaries was rendered embarrassing from extensive sandy flats, which compelled us to go occiisionally nearly out of sight of land, yet left us exposed to a fretjuently dangerous surf, in boats too slight to venture out into deep water, amongst heavy ice, in stormy weather, and we gladly exchanged it for a coasting voyage of the open sea. We subsequently rounded Cape Parry in latitude 70° 18' north and longitude 123° west, Cape Krusenstern in latitude 68° 40' north and longitude 114° 45' west, and entered Coronation Gulf by the Dolphin and Union Strait, which brought us "within sight of Cape Barrow and two degrees of longitude to the eastward of the Coppermine, our sea voyage terminating on August 8th, by our entering that river. With the exception of a few hours, on two or three days, we had contrary winds the whole way, and latterly were delayed and compelled to round every inlet of a deep bay, by thick ice driving in from seaward and packing closely on the shore ; but our crews, taking every advantage of wind and tide, cut a passage with the hatchet, and by four days of hard labour cleared this obstacle, the most troublesome that occurred during our voyage along the coast. 'I" 1826 LETTER TO CAPTAIN FRANKLIN. 157 ing the Although we saw much heavy floe ice, some of it aground even in nine fathoms water, yet none of it bor(^ maikH ol being more tlian one season old, and from the heights of land we could discern lanes of open water outside, so that a ship, properly strengthened for such a voyage, coidd make way through it with a favouring breeze. Throughout the whole line of coast we had regular tides, the flood setting from the eastward, and the rise and fall ii'om twelve to twenty inches. In the Dolphin and Union Strait the current in the heiglit of flood and ebb exceeded two miles an hour. We found driit timber everywhere, and a large portion of it on mjuiy parts of the coast lay in a line from ten to fifteen, and in some places upwards of twenty feet above the ordinary .spring tide water mark, apparently thrown up by a heavy sea. The coast, in such places, was unprotected by islands, and one would infer that in some seasons at least, if not every year, there exists a long fetch of open water. We met several parties of Esquimaux, and had friendly communications with them. One numerous horde that we fell in w^ith at the mouth of the Mackenzie, encouraged by the smallness of our numbers and the apparently dis- tressed situation of the boats grounding on the flats of the river, endeavoured to seize and plunder the ' Union.' But the steady courage and humane forbearance of jVIr. Kendall, and the cool determined conduct of both crews, frustrated the attempt without injury to the natives ; and we afterwards made presents and bartered with some indi- viduals of the same party, who had not engaged in the affair, and signified their disapproval of the conduct of their countrymen. At the first rapid in the Coppermine, we abandoned the ' Dolphin' and ' Union' with their remaining cargoes of l\ i \ ,': ^^ "IF^P^IP" «i« le58 LIFE OP 8IR JOHN RICHARDSON. 182r> '\ ,r ' ])roviHion, iron-work, beads, &c., to tlie first party of Esqui- maux that sliould chance to pass tliat way, and on August 10, set out by land with ten days' provision, and our per- sonal luggage reduced to a single blanket and a few spare moccasins, that we might travel as lightly as possible; and further to reduce the men's loads, the tents were left behind, and Mr. Kendall carried the astronomical instru- ments. We reached the eastern end of Bear Lake, at the influx of Dease River, on the 18th, and remained there until the evening of the 24th, before the boat arrived to convey us to the Fort. Boileau^the Interpreter, whom, as the mos. trustworthy man, and partly at my own desire, you had directed to take charge of the boat and canoe for that service, was sent off from the Fort on the Cth of the month with supplies of everything needful, and the strictest injunctions from Mr. Dease to use diligence in getting to the river. From a vague belief, however, that we should never return, that he would make a needless voyage and remain long waiting for us in vain, he loitered by the way, and in consecpience, when the 20th of the month, the latest day appointed for his arrival, had elapsed, I judged it prudent to distribute the crews into hunting and fishing parties to procure subsistence. In these operations they were successful, and we also obtained supplies from a party of Indians, so that we had abundance; but I was not able to collect all my party again until the evening of the 28th. We then embarked in a large canoe, and reached • the Fort on September 1, afler an absence from it of seventy-one days, the whole party in perfect health, and more fit, with regard to bodily strength, to undertake a similar expedition than they were at setting out. . . . I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant, John Richardson. mm^ ^'..W 1826 1826 LETTER TO MRS. RICHARDSON. VA) < On September 28, he wrote to his wife : — I am now on my way to Slave Lake, with the intention of wintering in the hospitable mansion of my kind friend McVicar. The trees have assumed the livery of autumn, and the leaves are falling fast; but the sconery in its present dres^ looks dclightlul, and the fall, as it is termed, is in faet the only season of the year when, from the absence of mosquitoes and other winged pests, travelling in this country is pleasjmt. The weather, though occasionally cold, continues fine in this quarter till the middle of October, when the rivers and lakes are generally bound up in ice for the winter. From Fort Eesolution, on Great Slave Lake, he wrote to his mother, in November ; — It will give you pleasure to learn that I am now in perfect health, and on my return home, after having accomplished all that was expected of me on this expedition. We have experienced no privations ; on the contrary, from the previous judicious arrangements, and the present good dis- position of the Hudson's Bay Company's officers, we have been supplied with everything necessjiry for our comfort. I am at present living under the roof of my ho.spitfible friend Mr. McVicar, from whom I experienced much kind- ness on the former journey. The expedition has this year surveyed the coast of the Arctic Sea, from the mouth of the Coppermine Kiver to the 150th degree of longitude, and but little remains towards the complete discovery of the nort/li-west passage. Tem- pestuous weather, fogs, and much ice, the usual impedi- ments to navigation in the Arctic Sea, added to the peculiarly inhospitable and dangerous nature of the coast now sur- veyed, and the numerous hordes and turbulent disposition N> V I I' 160 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHAEDSON. 1826 of the Esquimaux who inliahiv it, renclered the voyage so li.'izardous that the breasts of every member of the exjiedition can be filled with but one sentiment of gratitude to the Supreme Disposer of events, wlio graciovisly coiulucted us in perfect fciifety through all the dangers wliich environed us. To his wife he wrote : — You will experience pleasure in learning that our friend Ca])tain Franklin lias returned with his party in good healtli, from a voyage full of peril and difficuUies, but more successful than could have been hoped under such circum- stances. He got more tlinn liulf way to Icy Cape, and although he has not coni])k'ted tlie North-west Passage, yet lie lias left so small r, portion of the coast unsurveyed, t^'.at if Captain Beechy gets round Icy Cape he can scarcelv fail in com])leting it. The search has extended over three centuries, but now that it may be considered as accom- j)lished, the discovery will, I suppose, be committed, like Juliet, to the tomb of all tlie Capulets, unless something more powerfid than steam can render it available for the j)urj)Ose of mercantile gain. From Great Bear Lake, on September 21, Cap- tain Franklin wrote : — Mv di;au liiciiAHDSON, — Tou can well imagine the heart- felt pleasure I received on arriving here vMs morning and tinding that you had executed your part of the service in such an expeditious and very able manner. Wc unlbrtu- nately .nissed Boisverd, and consequently I have not yet got your cwn account of the voy;ige; but Mr. Kendall has sliown me his journal, so that I am in ])ossession of all the material circumstances as to your proceedings. We were saluted in a somewhat similar manner to you by the Esquimaux, [ 1826 LETTER FROM CAPTAIN FRANKLIN. 161 ;ap- '■ 1 tljough more rouglily, and by at least '2i'iO men, a portion of tlie inmates of upwards of seventy tents. We got out of tlie Mackenzie on the 7th of July, and on the 9th were stopped by ice, unbroken from the shore, and Ibllowed it up, as the separation took place, till August 4, being often unable to advance a mile a day, and never more than eight miles. In this tedious way we proceeded as f'lr as the 141st degree. Beyond that the ice had removed so as to admit of a passage for the boats, but we were visited l)y constant fogs, and detained eight days at one spot by a gale of wind, and so dense an atmosphere as to oljscure every object more distant than a few hundred yards. The coast, too, was so low and flat as to be unapproachable nearer than two or three miles, and we could only effect a landing in one point, though we fre(iuently attempted it l)y dragging the boats through the nnul. At all other times, we were compelled to put up on the naked reefs in front of the coast, sometimes without water or wood. In such a situation v;e were placed on August 10, 17, ..nd 18> about half way to Icy Cape, being detained V>y a heavy gale. The crews were now suffc^ring from exposure to wading in the water (whenever we re(iu:ied to land), wluch w.s generally about the freezing j)oint, while the temperature of the air seldom exceeded .'UI". It became, therefore, necessary to revert to the clause in my instructions as to returning, if there was a doubt of our getting to Kotzebuc; •Sound. There was certaiidy every room for doubt as to our getting to that place befure the severe weather set in. The coast, too, was an extremely hazardous one for navigat- ing under any circumstances, and especially so in the foggy weather we almost invariably had ; and when we launched I)J i 1 ■;'•■ i i 162 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1827 from one place, we could form no idea when we might again be able to find another, on which, by any effort, we could land. The icy gales, too, were beginning to set in, and both Mr. Back and myself considered that further perseverance would be unpardonable rashness. But the necessity of returning gave all of us the deepest concern, for our boats were in perfect order, the crews very zealous, and we had abundance of provision. Subsequent events justified the propriety of this determination, for we had scarcely turned before we had a succession of stormy weather. In the meantime, the Esquimaux were gather- ing again about the Mackenzie, and between them and the Indians I much fear some serious misfortunes would have befallen the party, had we been even two days later. Ours has been a voyage of increasing anxiety, and ever since we entered the Mackenzie we have suffered in no small degree from having heard of the disposition evinced by the Esquimaux to attack you ; and on arriving at Fort Good Hope, wc heard a report of the chief having been killed, and of course concluded it was you. Thank God, all is now well, and I feel convinced that the British public will be perfectly satisfied with what has been don^. I am in hopes Beechy will pass round Icy Cape. If so, I shall consider the passage as ascertained. As for Parry, the ice we saw precludes every hope of his success, and in fact westward of the Mackenzie, there is but one harbour into which a ship could safely enter. In the montli of December, Dr. Richardson set out for Carlton House, where, on April 5, 1827, he was joined by Mr. Drummond, the assistant naturalist. The collections which the latter had i*iis«;#«i*ik^-;Mi 182: 1827 AFFECTION OF AUGUSTUS. 163 made on the mountains during the absence of the expedition in the north, amounted to nearly 1500 species of plants, 150 birds, 50 quadrupeds, and a considerable number of insects. From Carlton Dr. Richardson proceeded to Cumberland House, where Captain Franklin arrived, on June 18, and the friends had the pleasure of meeting again after a separation of eleven months. The Esquimaux in- terpreter, Augustus, also came to this post, in order to gratify a desire which he had of seeing the doctor once more before he left the country, leaving accompanied them to Norway House, where '■e was to wait to see Captain Back, the faithful creature shed tears at parting, which, ' I have no doubt,' says Captain Franklin, ' proceeded from a sincere affection — an affection which, I can venture to say, was mutually felt by every individual.' After a pleasant journey through Canada and the United States, Captain Franklin and Dr. Richard- son reached New York, and sailed for England on the 1st of September, arriving in Liverpool on the 26th, after an absence of two years, seven months and a.-half. Captain Back, Lieutenant Kendall, and Mr. Drummond, with the rest of the British party, returned by Hudson's Bay, and ar- rived at Portsmouth on October 10, bringing the sad news that one excellent man had died from consumption, and another had been drowned while trying to save one of the boats which was rushing down the Pelican Fall in Slave River. With the M 2 mm'mui 164 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1827 exception of these losses, the gallant and indefa- tigable band of explorers returned in safety, having added extensively to the geographical knowledge of the North American coast, made important ex- periments in magnetism and the effects of the Aurora Borealis on the needle, and secured large collect^'ons of natural history, especially in the department of botany. ■ \ • I, ; t)<< *■-. — ' ■ mm >iwii. wx.^ ^ "-rj^im^ ..^.imUf.rf ■■■ I 1 1827 defa- a-ving ledge it ex- f the large I the 182S DUTIES AT CHATHAM. 165 I CHAPTER XVIII. DUTIES AT CHATHAM MELVILLE HOSPITAL PROPOSES A\()- THEK EXPEDITION TO NORTH AMERICA DEATH OF MRS. RICHARDSON PLAN OF SEARCH FOR CAPTAIN JOHN P.OSS THE GOVERNMENT DECIDES NOT TO SEND A SEARCHING PARTY. 1827-1832. On September 29, 1827, Dr. Richardson arrived in London, where he resided for a short time while preparing his portion of the narrative or the expedition and the scientific appendices to it, con- sisting of topographical and geological notices, meteorological tables with remarks, and observa- tions on solar radiation. In 1828, he had returned to his official duties at Chatham, and every spare hour was devoted to his great work, ' The Fauna Boreali-Americana, or Natural History of the Arctic Regions.' There was little time for writing letters, and it is only occa- sionally that glimpses of his life, at this period, are obtained. Meantime, Melville Hospital had been erected at Chathnm, and he became cliief medical officer. On June 80, Mi\^. Richardson wrote : — mm 166 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 182S k} The new Hospital is at last finished, and the patients were moved in yesterday, but we shall not be able to take possession of our house for four months. It is much hirger than the present one, and in a more retired situation. Our nei^rhbours will consist of the purveyor, his wife, and the assistant-surgeon, so 1 think that within our gates we shall be able to make a very snug party for the winter evenings. The cares connected with bringin^^ the new hos- pital into working order did not, however, lead him to relax his scientific and literary work. The first volume of the * Fauna ' appeared early in 1829. The autumn holidays of this year were spent pleasantly. After a steam-boat voyage to Leith, several happy days were passed in Edinburgh with relatives and old friends, followed by a visit to Professor Hooker of Glasgow, who was busy with the 'North American Flora.' With his mother, amidst the scenes of boyliood's bright days, the time whicli ^ mained glided swiftly away. Referring to Dr. Richardson's visits to his father. Dr. Joseph Dalton Hooker of Kew says : — Having read the narrative of both journeys during my re- covery irom a serious illness, and having every ])articular of them impressed on my mind, I regarded liim as wniething more than man. I used to follow him all over the house oiforing my services in openinj his boxes and carrying his bundles of plants, so a mutual understanding sprang up between us. If we did not converse nmch, it was not because I had not nuich to say to him, but he was naturally mm ■■■i 182S 1830 PEOPOSES ANOTHER EXPEDITION. 167 I' 1. reserved, and the subject on which I longed to cross-question liini, MiiheVs death, had been interdicted to Uil by tlie strict injunctions of my parents. He did give me various little insights into canoe voyaging, hunting and camping, and told me some good stories, as how his hardy botanical collector, Drummond, had frightened away a grizzly bear by shaking his tin botanising box full of stones under his nose when it was about to liug him. On September 21, Dr. Richardson arrived a<:!^ain in London, accompanied by his sister Josephine, Mrs. Richardson meeting them there, to enjoy a few days' sight-seeing, previous to resuming his scientific studies and the routine duties of Mel- ville Hospital. The difficulties, which prevented Sir John Franklin, in the summer of 182G, from completing the survey of the Arctic coast, westward of the Mackenzie river, did not seem to Dr. Richardson to be insurmountable. In 1830, he brought the subject under the notice of Mr. Hay of the Colonial Office, and offered his services if the Government .should resolve to send out another expedition. ' The details are very simple,' he wrote : ' two officers with twenty men would travel from Canada to Bear Lake in one summer. They could there winter and build lK>ats, and the second summer would suffice, not only to enable them to complete the examination of the coast, but to make such progress on their return as would ensure their reacliing England by tlni Hudson's Bay ships the following year. If greater economy be required, the party may be reduced one-hah", for by using certain precautions in the construction 168 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1831 of tlie boats, and a light defensive armour sufficient to turn an arrow, any hostile attempts of the natives would be frus- trated. Indeed I have practically showii that ten men are sufficient to navigate two boats along an equal extent of Arctic coast, and I have in this instance considered the larger number to be preferable, solely because it would be sufficiently imposing to prevent any unpleasjuit collision whatever, and do away with the necessity of repressing the natives Ijy violence.' To this proposal, Mr. Hay replied, 'If any expedition of the descrij>tion to which you refer should be set on foot, the Secretary of State would naturally apply to you, but at present, I see no prospect of such a project being undertaken by the Governmeut.' In I80I, dark clouds began to break over him. He had left his parental home so early that of all his brothers, Peter, who was near the same age, only had been a companion and very dear to him. In the month of August, he died suddenly in Edinburgh. Mrs. Richardson began also to droop, and thousfh a clianjje to Tunbridsre Wells was to some extent beneficial, she gradually lost strength. On the evening of Christmas she died, at the early age of thirty-six. * Her character was marked by a sincere and humble but cheerful piety — a faith- ful discharge of her duties, a meekness of demea- nour and purity of thought and conversation, combined with firmness of purpose, and by the \ 1832 PROPOSES TO SEARCH FOR CAPT. JOHN ROSS. IGD '^ % \ i constant exercise of Christian charity and kindness to alL' In 18:32, great fears began to be entertained for the safety of Captain John Eoss. Accompanied by his nephew, he had sailed, in 1820, in a small vessel called the * Victory,' which through the munificence of Sir Felix Booth he had been en- abled to fit out, with the intention of seeking a passage through Regent's Inlet, but no tidings of them had readied England. Dr. Richardson's sympathy was aroused, and he endeavoured to stimulate the Admiralty and the public to take some interest in their fate. The appeal was in vain. He then wrote a letter to the Secretary of the Geographical Society, which, after the lapse of several weeks, w^as read, along with some other communications on the same subject, and excited attention. The Admiralty and Colonial Oiiice were applied to, but the Secretary of the A Admiraltv said that nothino- could be done, as the ^ ' Victory ' must have gone to pieces, and all her c^'ew perished during the ilrst winter. Xot willing to be baffled in his humane attempt, and having been made acquainted, in confidence, by Sir Felix Booth with the route which Captain Koss intended to pursue, he addressed a letter to Mr. Hay, the Under-Secretary for the Colonies, solicit- ing the Government to send him out with a relief- party. The i^roposal was at first entertained, and he began to make the necessary preparations. He \ 170 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1832 ^ 7 [:■/ I. selected twelve marines, who were blacksmiths, carpenters, or other artisans, and could all pull an oar. One of them had received a good education, anl was an able draughtsman. John Hepburn was to go out to take charge of the winter house. Writing to his* mother, on May 20, he says : — You will no doubt be a little alarmed at the idea of my again leaving home, but there will be little hazard, and my route lies through a country with which I am well ac- quainted. Besides I go out under much more favourable circumstances than I did before, having now the command of the party, which will be well equipped and amply fur- nished with provisions by the Hudson's Bay Company. I am busy making preparations, as the ship in which I go flails from Gravesend on the 0th of June. We touch at Stornaway, in the island of Lewis, so that I shall have an opportunity of writing to you from that place. On May 2-3, he experienced the disappointment of being informed by the following note from the Treasury that the Government had given up all idea of sending the expedition : — Mr. Ellice desires me to inform you that he has had a farther discussion with Sir James Graham, and Lord Althorp, on the subject of your proposed Expedition ; that they consider all chance of saving any of Captain Ross's companions hopeless ; and that they do not see in the other objects of the Expedition sufficient public grounds to war- rant the risk and expense. Notwithstanding official opinion, Captain Ross and his men were saved, but by God's help and their own bravery. J .■<^> -►». 1832 CAPT. BACK 8 EXPEDITION. 171 We know, from various sources, that the opposi- tion to the sending" of a soarchin^ ^ 1.0 1.1 128 |25 ■ 2.2 <^ ->^ Mil US, |2^ IM 1 ' 1.25 |,U ,,.6 ^ 6" ► 7 Hiotograidiic Sdences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER. N.Y. I45M (716) •73-4S03 ^< -5^ ^ •s^ :\ \ 6^ %7 172 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 18S2 1884, and surveyed the coast on both sides of its estuary, touchin36 1836 LETTER TO CAPTAIN BEAUFORT. 177 :> fur trade, the Newfoundland cod-fishery, and the Davis' Straits whale-fishery, nurseries for seamen, arc the direct results of expeditions which sailed in quest of a north-west passjige. But it is not on the existence of this passiige that my argument for new expeditions of discovery rests; for were it even pr(»ved that, contrary to the opinions of tlje ablest officers who Iiave sailed the polar seas, no practicable channel for sliips can be found, still 1 hold it to be the duty of those who direct the councils of the Britij*h Empire to provide for tlie exploring of every j)art of His Majesty's dominions. This would be merely an act of justice to the various tribes that have a claim on England for protection. The deadly feuds between the Esquimaux and the neigh- bouring Indians can be terminated only by the extinction of one of the parties or by European interference; and should our repeated visits to those remote coasts be the means of carrying thither the blessings of peace and shed- ding the light of Christianity on the benighted inhabitants, it would, in my opinion, be an ample recompense for all the exertion which England has made and all the expense she has incurred. • Havinjr sho^vn how small an extent of coast remained to be explored, lie pointed out in what manner it could be done by a party wintering at the east end of Great Bear Lake, and descending tlie Coppermine River in June. In mentioning the principal points to be attended to, he added, ' I have not said that it is necessary to obtain the concurrence and cordial co-operation of the Hud- son's Bay Company, since that enlightened body has never failed to lend its powerful and indis- N 178 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1836 peiisable assistance to an enterprise patronised by Government and havinfif science for its aim.' Cai)tiiin Beaufort replied : — My (Ic.ir IJicljardson. — I am exceedingly obliged to yon for your wry beautiful ' Fauna,' and only regret that, having got to the end of your labours and no great probability of your set'king i'or fresh materials, your pen, which has con- veyed so much knowledge and ])leasure to the world, will now be allowed to moulder away in idleness. I have to thank you also for your excellent letter to me about the Arctic fnrd incnrfitiUi. I carried it i'orthwith to the (ieographical Council, where it was read and admired, and ordered to be printt'd — and I had it read again at the ev(>ning meeting. Sir .John Franklin made a good speech u])on the subject, and I have just been urging him to write a letter on the same plan and let it be printed with yours. A committee has l>een formed in order to report on the best means of doii g something, and Sir John Barrow says lie will do his best to forward the afiair with government, though I am much afraid we shall have his warm support only as far as the Xorth-West Pas.s:»ge. Anionj^ the select number of friends whose society they enjoyed at this time, were Dr. Davy and his wife, who came to Chatham in 1885, and resided in Fort Pitt. This intimacy was kept up as long as Richardson lived, and was the source of much mutual enjoyment during the latter years of his life, when they dwelt only a few miles apart. On June 5, 1836, another child was bom, and named Josephine Fanny. A few weeks later their joy was changed into mourning by the death of • [ 1 -38 PHYSICIAN TO HASLAR HOSPITAL. 179 little Franklin. They resi«,'ne(l him to the Tionl in faith ; yet, lonjr after, the yearning's of tlu»ir hearts were towards the darlinj; so earlv takt'n. In the month of Auj^nst, the}- visited Mrs. Richardson at Dumfries, travellinir hv wav of Bir- minvay of questioning, tliat tlrew from tlie i)atient nuidi more information tlian licapitarently Koupiht, and from wliich he could judjre how far his orders liad been attendud to ])y his subordinates. In his tiimily circle lie was very genial and gentle.' His efforts to induce the Admiralty to introduce necessary reforms in the Hospital management were unwearied. Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, says : — It was chiefly to his exertions that the great and bene- ficent cliange made in the treatiuent of lunatics in the Naval hosj)itals was due. He had made, I ])elicve, several earnest reports to the Admiralty on the desirableness of introducing the milder mode of treatment, which was steadily making its way in county and private asylums, into the Naval Hospital at Hasiar, but without success. Wlule on a visit at my house, I ])roposed to liim to go and in.spectthe Middlesex County Asylum at I Ian well, then under the able superintendence of Dr. Conolly. During our examination, we made the acquaintance of Mrs. ^lactic, matron of the establishment, and received irom lier a variety of interesting details, relative not only to the suc- cess of the treatment, but to the number ol' keepers em- ployed, the expenditure, and other particulars -wliich afforded him great assisfcince in draw^ing up a new report in which he showed that the milder system was not only the most efficient, but that it could be carried out at less expense. The consequence was that the Board ol' Admi- ralty gave directions for its introduction, and every one who lias witnessed the difference in the appearance and behaviour of the patients, cannot fail to regard the change i ^m" 1839 l«4()-43 INSPECTOR OP HOSPITALS. 181 as one ofproat importance, not only in a medical, hut in a liumnnu point of view. Dr. Riehurclson establishcMl and adhoroil to tlu» rule that the medical otHeers should visit and pre- scribe for the patients l)efore breakfast, niakin«:^ them comfortable as early as possible, and keepin*; the nurses and assistants on the alert. He was ready for family prayers at half-past ei}^ht o'clock, and generally made the seasons of exercise subser- vient to some kindly purpose of visitin*^ an invalid friend, or jirescribinjjf for persons whose jneans did not allow of their havink her to Himself to receive the reward of i>erseverance in well-doinjj and faith in her Saviour. The character of Mrs. Richardson was estimable in the highest degree. Though often an invalid, she was ever cheerful and contented. Self-denying care for her husband's comforts and hearty interest in his labours, aifection for her children, attention to her h(aisehold duties, charity to the poor, com- passionate helping of the sick, above all, firm faith in the Saviour, and love to the ordinances of religion were conspicuous during her married life. Mrs. Davy, of Ambleside, who knew her well, thus writes : — It was in tlie year liS3r> that I first became acquainted with Mrs. liichardson at Chatham, where our liusbands had medical aj)pointments in the service of the army and navy resj)ectively. I well remember the first day Mrs. liichard.son and I met, which was soon after om* arrival i'rom abroad. We had a pleasant bond in our previous acquaintance with, and high regard for, her honoured uncle, i 1845 CHARACTER OF MRS. RICHARDSON. 183 Sir John Franklin, .'ukI in the Ptranjre land, i\n t«i socirty, tiuit Chatliain was tiicn to nic, I ster. 'lo the [toor she did nut merely give alms hut loving-kindness. She experienced much of the trial oi' infirm health hotii hefc^re and tluring the time we lived near to one another, and .'iorrow visited her home in its sjiddest Ibrm by the death of two yt>ung children, one an infant, the other a boy of nearly three years, who was very precious to the hearts and Impes of both his parents. Her accej)tance of these sorrows was tenderly instructive. I have never known so entire an ac<|uiescence in the will of God amidst trying dispeiiSiitions, or any one whose cheerful return to the business of lite, after having been sorely stricken, seemed so natural. En- tirely happy in her wedded union, she rejoiced over it, not only with aHection.ite but gratelul joy. As neighbour friends, we parted in the spring of 1HJJ?<, when the Kichard- sons removed to llaslar, and I did not see Mrs. liichardson again, but we olten exclianged letters, and hers were so like herself that they were always welcome to me and much missed when they came no more. 184 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1845 CHAPTER XX. DR. RICnARDSON AT CAMBHinCE — MEDICAL DUTIES — KNIGHT- HOOD — HOSPITAL REFORM — SIR EDWARD PARRV HECOMES CA1*TAIN SUPERINTENDENT FEARS FOR THE SAFIITY OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN LETTER TO SIR EDWARD PARRV — LETTER TO HIS MOTHER THIRD MARRIAGE — DEATH OF HLS MOTHER Di:. RAE — LETTER TO MRS. FLETCHER — IN LONDON SAILS FROM LIVERPOOL. 184.j-ir.48. !i In June, 1 845, Dr. Richardson went to Cambridge, to be present at the meeting of the British Asso- ciation, and read a paper on the Ichthyology of the seas of Chira and Japan. Somewhat later, the ' Eclair ' arrived at Ports- mouth, from a cruise on the coast of Africa, with a malignant type of fever raging on board, and all his energies were put foi*th for the relief of the sufferers. Instead of conhning them within the narrow limits of the infected vessel, he recom- mended the sick to be removed to a wing of the hospital, in hopes that fresh air and proper treat- ment might restore them to health. In his des- patch to the Admiralty, he said : — 1845 1845 KNIGHTHOOD. 185 I Notwithstanding the extraordinary mortality that has swept off so large a proportion of the crew of this vessel, I entertain no fears of her being the means of introducing epidemic disease into this comitry, and were the sick placed in well-ventilated wards with fresh bedding and the other means of cleanlmess afforded by an hospital, I anticipate no farther risk to the attendants, than would occur in wards set apart for cases of typhus fever. Meantime, at the suggestion of Sir John Barrow, the Earl of Haddington, First Lord of the Admi- ralty, applied to the Prime Minister to obtain for him the honour of knighthood, in acknowledgment of his services as an Arctic explorer and naturalist. In reply to a letter from Sir John Barrow, Dr. Anderson of Haslar wrote, that Dr. Richardson, who had been attacked with spasms of the heart, had resumed his duties, adding : * The honour which is intended to be conferred on him, will, I am sure, be most gratifying to every officer in the medical department of the naval service ; and the circumstance of the distinction having been pro- posed by yourself, who are so capable of judging of his merits, will greatly enhance the value in the estimation of us all.' In his Autobiography, Sir John Ban*ow says : — I may mention an incident which marks an amiable stamp on the cluiracter of the individual in question. While the title was in progress, intimation was conveyed to me that Dr. Richardson had been attacked with severe paralysis. I wrote immediately to Ilaslar Hospital to in- ^ <. / t I ^ 186 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1846 quire after him ; the answer Avas that it was only a fainting fit, occasioned by stooping too long, and tliat he was then quite well. It turned out that he was eniployiiiL' hini-«elf in stooping to plant flowers and ever-greens round the grave of his late wife, whom he had recently lost. Another trait may be mentioned. Having himself made no appli- cation nor expressed any desire to be knighted, Lord Had- dington asked me if I was sure it would be acceptable. 'That.' I siiid, 'shall be ascertained.' On seeing him, I asked if knighthood would be agreeable, })rovidtd it could be obtained. His answer to me Avas, ' As a mark of a}»j>robation from the Government, for my services, it could not be otherwise, but it would have been much more so, had it been granted in the life-time of my beloved wife.' These are pleastmt traits of strong domestic afl'ection, and correspond, as I have been informed, with the whole tencur of his life. He was knighted by Her Majesty on February 11, 1840, and in August, 1850, was made an or- dinary member of the military division of the third class, or Companions of the Bath. In the month of April, 184G, Sir John Richard- son pointed out, in a despatch to the Director- General of the medical department of the navy the inconvenience of having the hospital at Haslar governed by a Captain- Superintendent, and the necessity of leaving the entire control, as at Mel- ville and other hospitals, in the hands of the chief medical officer. He showed that both efficiency and economy would be thereby gained. The post of Captain- Superintendent, however, was not abo- \ 1846 1847 FEARS FOR THE SAFETY OF FRANKLIN. 187 lished; but he had the f,a'atification of leaniin*^ that Sir Edwjird Parry, a man of con<^enial mind, was to fill it ; and during the whole time of his com*^.and they cordially co-operated in improviny^ the establishment. Early in 1847 many began to feel anxiety re- garding the expedition under Sir John Franklin, and the Admiralty lost no time in consulting those best qualified to judge of the dangers to which the crews might be exposed, and the proper steps to be taken in case of disaster. Sir John Eichard- son's opinion was asked, and given with precision and judgment. In a letter to Sir Edward Parry he says : — Sir John Franklin's plans were to shape liis courso in the first instiince lor the neighbourhood of Cape Walker, and to endeavour to get to the westward in that parallel, or, if that could not be accomplished, to make his way southwards to the channel discovered on the north coast of the Continent, and so into Behring's Straits. Failing suc- cess in that (piarter, he meant to retrace his course to Wellington Channel and attempt a passjige to the north- wards of Fairy's Island. And if foiled there also, to descend Kegent's Inlet and seek the passiige discovered by Dease and Simpson. With respect to the strong appreliensions that have been expressed in regard to the siiiety of the expedition, 1 agree with you in thinking tliat they are premature. The expe- dition was prepared to pass two winters in the Arctic Sea, and until next November shall have passed without tidings, 1 see no well-groimded reason for more anxiety than that f 188 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1847 which was naturally felt when it sailed from this country, as an enterprise of peril, though not greater than that which you have repeatedly encountered yourself, and on one oc- casion lor the same length of time, and returned in safety. The case will, however, be very different if the next winter sets in without satisfactory tidings of the expedition, and in contemplation of the possibility of such an event, it may be adviwible to take some precautionary steps this season. I concur in the opinion that it would be useless and hazardous to send an) thing short of a second well-appointed expedition to trace the course of the missing ships, and I can suggest no plan superior to the one you have purposed of encouraging the whalers, by an adequate reward, to fixamine the shores of Lancaster Straits and Wellington Uound. The boat expedition from Hudson's Bay to the Welcome and bottom of Kegent's Inlet, now in progress, will procure intelligcMce of the ships should they have visited that neighbourhot)d. There remains the contingency of the ships having pe- netrated some considerable distiince to the south-west of Cape Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in the channels of the xVrchipelago, which, there is every reason to believe, occupies tho space north of Wollaston Islands and south of Bank's Land. Such accidents are seldom so sudden but that the boats of one or both ships with provisions can be saved, and, in such an event, the survivors would either retrace their way to Lancaster Straits or make for the Continent according to their nearness, and Sir John Franklin and his officers are fully aware of the localities where they might best seek relief from the Indians or ser- vants of the Hudson's Bay Company. T 1847 1847 LETTER TO HIS MOTHER. 189 It is possible, however, tliat the shipwreck may be so complete as to leave the party, or such of them as escaj)e to the shore, without the means of crossing to the main, yet with provisions thrown upon the beach suificient to support them for a season. Or a few miglit escaj)e and associate themselves with the Avundering hordes of Ksijui. maux. To rescue such individuals or to obtiiin tidings of the lost ships — "Wollasfon Land, Victoria Land, the neigh- bouring islands and channels, might 1x3 visited by boats. Under no circumstimces could this be effected, even in j)art, earlier than August 1848, and tlien only through aiTange- ments made immediately with the Hudson's Bay Company and tlie aid of a favourable season. He then unfolded, in liis letter, a plan of relief by an expedition descending the Mackenzie Eiver in boats, and searching the line of coast to which the ship-wrecked crews would naturally endeavour to make their way ; during the second summer, if the weather and ice permitted, exploring also the channels between WoUaston and Victoria Lands. AVhile many had gloomy forebodings. Sir John Richardson clung tenaciously to the hope that his friend would return. To his mother, who was on her death-bed, he wrote in April : — I fear that you must have heard of a paragraph in some of the papers mentioning my being appoint jd to conduct another Polar expedition. There arc no well-grounded apprehensions for the safety of Sir John Franklin, but the Admiralty have thought it advisable to take some precau- tions, and I am busy pre|ijiring a (juantity of pemniican and other provisions to be sent out to Hudson's Bay in k v\ 190 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1847 ,: ' June, and forwarded through the country in boats. Should nothinj^ ])e licard of Franklin's Expedition in the winter, I sliall go out next spring, not for the purpose of making dipcoverios, but to follow our former tracks and carry the provisions to the ships, if on the north coast of the Ame- rican continent. On June 15, 1847, the Hudson's Bay Company's ships sailed from the Thames, canying the boats, men, and stores for Sir John Richardson's expe- dition to the shores of the Arctic Sea, during the following summer, if, before spring, no news of Sir John Franklin reached England. He cherished the hope, how^ever, that there would be no neces- sity for going in search of his friend, and thus wrote : — I really do not feel the anxiety and excitement which would be inseparable from the certainty or even great pro- l)ability of my having to look for them in another quarter of the globe; but God orders all for the best, and Avhatevcr be the result, in this case I shall consider as a plain indi- cation of my line of duty. 1 did not put myself forward or make the oflTor from any prompting of vanity ; but my opinion was sought for, and my offer to go folloAved as a part of the plan Avhich I thought to be most advisable. Should Sir John Franklin not return this autumn, the cir- cumstances Avill be greatly altered; and a strong desire to contribute to his relief and that of his party (which I do not at present feel, because I do not think their safety to be compromised) will then stimulate me to exertion, and make my going a much inferier evil to what my lingering at home and shirking such a duty would be. IB WW i^'a MfllUJ WB I— Bi 1847 1847 MARRIAGE. 101 I His marriajxe with Mary, the vouiijjest daiisrhter of Archibald Fletcher, Esq., of Edinburf^h, was ce- lebrated in the church at Grasmere on Aii;^ust 4th : after which he spent some time on the Continent, examininj^ especially Pastor Fliodner's Institution, near Dusseldorf, for the training of nurses, in which he was much interested. They retiunied to Haslar in the first week of September. At this period. Sir Edward Parry was Captain Superintendent of the Hospital, and the many l)oints of interest which he and Richardson had in common, especially their knowledge of Arctic affairs, and affection for Franklin, made the inter- course between the two families most cordial and intimate, while their influence as chiefs of the administrative and medical departments was most beneficial to the establishment. A few days after his mother's death, which oc- curred at the end of October, he yisited Mrs. Fletcher and Mrs. Dayy at Lesketh How, near Ambleside. He was meditating on Franklin's return, and in one of his letters from that lovely spot says, ' We may soon expect the first of the whalers of the season, and, about the middle of November, Sir John Franklin in their rear.' The last of the whalers came without brinjjinnf any tidings of the * Erebus ' and ' Terror.' Ap- prehension for the safety of their crews increased, and Sir John Richardson felt it necessary to com- A 102 LIFE OF SIR JOHN EICHARDSON. 1847 plete the preparations for his journey. The merry ^roiip of children, too young to realise what was before them, except as an exciting adventure, of which * finding uncle Franklin ' was the ejid, had gone to bed, one evening, after listening as usual to an amusing tale read by their father. When all was quiet, he communicated to his wife, in a low and touchingly mournful voice, the almost certain necessity of his departure, which made her conscious that she would indeed be unworthy of the confidence reposed in her, were she to increase the load that pressed on his heart by any expres- sion of weakness which it was possible to conceal, and the burthen was in some degree lightened to both after the worst had been made known. Towards the close of the year. Sir John Richard- son recommended the appointment of Dr. John Rae, a chief trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, to be second in command. He had lived long in Eupert's Land, knew how to turn the natural pro- ducts of the country to advantage, was a skilful hunter, ' quick in devising expedients for temper- ing the severity of the climate, an accurate ob- server with the sextant and other instruments usually employed to determine the latitude and longitude, or the variations and dip of the mag- netic needle, and had just brought to a successful conclusion, under circumstances of very unusual privation, an expedition of discovery fitted out by > L 11^. 1847 1848 DB. BAE. 193 J the Hudson's Bay Company, for the purpose of exploring the limits of Regent's Inlet.* On reading in the Times newspaper a letter from Dr. Rae describing his journey, Sir John Richardson said, ' I have found my companion, if I can get him.' He was immediately communi- cated with, and at once expressed his willingness to go as second in command. Lord Auckland, the First Lord of the Admiralty, had also discovered Dr. Rae's ability. A ready assent was therefore obtained to the proposal that Dr. Rae should accompany him. The choice was altogether a happy one. Dr. Rae not only possessed the highest qualifications for the duties to which he was appointed, but was a most congenial companion. His soul was in the work. Six winters after the crews of the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ' had perished, he was destined by Providence to find the relics of the deceased, which satisfied the Admiralty that the members of the Franklin Expedition had all died, and obtained for himself and party the 10,000?. promised to any one who should find and relieve the missing mariners, or bring correct intelligence of their fate. The following letter to Mrs. Fletcher, written by Sir John Richardson, on January 14, 1848, contains a statement of his motives for undertaking the search : — 194 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1843 I cannot allow your birtlKl ' i 196 LIFE OF SIB JOHN BICHABDHON. 1B48 he left Haslar, to the sorrow, and with the blessings of all around him. We pass over the affecting scene of parting with her who had so recently cast in her lot with his, and the children on whom he fondly doted. To his sister Mrs. Wallace he wrote : * I pray God to bless you and your large family. If you bring them up in the fear of the Lord, you do more for them than if you left them a fortune. Let religious instruction be a main employment with you. A few clear words on that subject from a mother are remembered in after years, and may by God's blessing be the means of saving an im- mortal soul.' After a few days he was on the broad Atlantic, eager to reach the Arctic Sea and examine, during the brief polar summer of that year, the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, and the south coast of Wollaston's Land, in hopes of aiding his long absent friend and the crews of the * Erebus * and * Terror.' ■■ 1848 197 CHAPTER XXI. THE 'EIIEBUS' and 'TERROIi' SIR JOHN RICHARDSON AT NEW YORK — JOURNEr THROUGH CANADA LETTER FROM LAKE ERIE — FROM LAKE SUPERIOR FROM LAKE WINNIPEG CUM- BERLAND HOUSE — LETTER FROM METHY PORTAGE — ON THE MACKENZIE RIVER EARLY APPROACH OF WINTER — MARCH TO BEAR LAKE — ARRIVAL LETTERS FROM FORT CONFI- DENCE — LETTER FROM DR. RAE. 1848. On May 19, 1845, the 'Erebus' and 'Terror,' under the command of Sir John Franklin, sailed from England, and reached Whalefish Islands, near Disco, early in July. They were seen, for the last time, by the ' Prince of Wales,' whaler, on the 26th of that month, making for Lancaster Sound. A year and a half later, fears for the safety of Franklin began to be expressed, and the Admi- ralty, at the close of 1847, despatched vessels to meet him with supplies at Behring's Straits ; two ships were sent in 1848 on Franklin's route, and Sir John Eichardson was despatched through Eu- pert's Land to the coast of the Arctic Sea. 198 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1848 ;i These were the hej^innings of a series of search- ing expeditions, persevered in, year after year, until tidings were obtained. Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae landed at New York on April 10, and after having ascer- tained the rate of the chronometers, they started for Alban} and Troy, proceeding by way of Lake Champlain to Montreal, where the canoe-men, en- gaged for them by Sir George Simpson, had been ordered to rendezvous. From Montreal, the route lay through Lakes Ontario, Erie, St. Claire, and Huron, to Sault St. Marie, where, being in ad- vance of the season, they were detained for several days by ice at the outlet of Lake Superior. When off Halifax Harbour, on April 7, he 'vvrote to his eldest daughter : — Forty years ago, on tliis very day, I entered the navy, j;nd I have liad a varied and arduous course by sea and land in the progress of my long service. It will gild the evening of life if I see my children growing up around me, beloved by their connections, ac(|uiring knowledge steadily, and above all, devoting themselves imreservedly to the service of God. Be sure, my dearest Josephine, that there is no peace unless the heart be right M'ith God, and as love to Him is incompatible with any self-indulgent feeling, He tries those whom He loves, in various ways, until He has brought them wholly to Himself. It is my prayer that you may meet Him and co-operate with His Holy Spirit in this gracious work. God bless you, my dear daughter, and may you set a good example to your younger sister. lp«i 1848 f search- er 3^ear, ndecl at ^ ascer- stai*ted of Lake aen, en- ad been le route ire, and in ad- several ' ^vrote le navy, sea and ?ild the md nie, steadily, to the e, tliat od, and diligent ? Avays, is my ith His ly dear oiinger 1848 LETTER FROM LAKE ERIE. 190 To his little daupfhter, six years old, he thus wrote, from Buffalo, Lake Erie, on Good Friday: — ^lY DEAREST Beatuice, — I aui now travelling on the great American Lakes, and liave leachcd the town or city of BiilFalo, not far i'rom the miu^htv Falls of Xiaixara. I intend to continue my voyages on these lakes, till I reach Fort William on Lake Superior, and shall then have gone over one (juarter of the circumference or round of the earth. The earth, my dear little child, turns once com pletely round in twenty-lour liours, presenting each sj)ot in succession to the sun. If the circle it makes, in turning, be divided into twenty-four parts, each part is e(iual to an hour of time ; or, if it be divided into oGO degrees, each hour includes fifteen degrees, and six hours are equal to ninety degrees, which is the longitude oi' Fort William west of Greenwich. When it is ipur o'clock in the after- noon with you, it is ten o'clock in the morning there. You are not old enough to understand this, but Jose- pliine will comprehend it, and ende-ivt)ur to explain it to you ; and should you liave access to a globe, mannna will show you, by turning the globe round iVom west to east towards a candle, how each spot on the earth is liglitened by the sun in succession. You will perceive by this, my dear ciuld, that the light of the sun, powerful, brilliant, and warm, is not everywhere present at once, ])Ut comes to us in succession, and alternating Avith night; but God, the Creator of the sun and the earth, with all its inhabitants, and of the entire universe, is everywhere present at the same instant of time. His eye sees every action and thought, asJ clearly in tlie night as in the day, and not a withered leaf can fall from a tree in the pathless Ibrcsts of this vast country but by His permission. Unless your papa was 200 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1848 under the constant guardianship of His providence, his long journey would be a wild and vain attempt ; and as He bids us pray regularly for assistance from His Holy Spirit, not only for ourselves, but for all that are dear to us, and for all mankind, I beseech you, my dear child, never to forget to pray, morning, evening, and at noon-day^ for your papa. You, mamma, Josephine, John, Willingham, and Edward, are constantly in my thoughts, and are always objects of my prayers. May the all-kind God grant my petitions and yours, if agreeable to His will. This letter is to be for Josephine as well as you. Be kind sisters one to another, and love your brothers. From Hudson's Bay House, Michipicoten, Lake Superior, he wrote to his eldest son, John, on May 7 : — My dear Boy, — This being the largest piece of fresh water in the world, is frequently called the King of Lakes. It occupies nearly as much space as the whole of England. At present it is not much frequented, except by straggling tribes and families of Indian hunters, and tlie fur traders passing to and fro between their posts, which are generally as far distant from each other as London is from West- moreland. To speak more correctly, this was the case a few years ago, but OAving to the discovery of copper on both sides of the lake, its watCxS are now more frefpiently navigated. Two small steamboats now come \\ in the summer to the American mining stations on the south side of the lake, and on Grand Isle, or to the Canadian mines at Mamainse Point, which we passed yesterday at noon. I 1848 1848 LETTER FROM LAKE SUPERIOR. 201 idence, his and as He oly Spirit, to us, and , never to n-daj , for d Edward, objects of ■ petitions 5 to be for o another, n. Lake ohn, on of fresh Lakes. England. niirfflins: traders enerallj West- case a per on juently in the th side mines noon. ' It is more than 100 miles from the spot at which I now write, which is in Michipicoten Bay. We travel in two canoes, each manned by eiglit voy- ageurs, that is, travellers or sailors. As soon as the day begins to break, the guide, that is, the chief voyageur, who directs the others and points out the route, summons the party to rise, and we are all instantly on foot, every one engaged in rolling up his blankets, and trudging as quickly as possible to the beach, from our sleeping place. The guide and another man, called the ' gouvernail,' or helmsman, in the meantime put the canoe into Lhe water, and as soon as all the luggage is properly stowed, we embark and paddle awa}'. If the weather be fine and the wind moderate, the voyageurs begin to sing, and en- liven their labour in that way, one man singing, and the others joining in a chorus. At the present time of the year, it happens to be light about half-past three in the morning, and we are generally away from our encampment by four o'clock. We continue on our route till about eight or nine, when we put ashore on the first favourable spot that occurs, land the canteen, con- taining the tea-kettle, plates, knives, and spoons, teapot and teacups, make a fire with wood, which aboimds every- where, cutting down three or ftmr trees for the purpose, and having cooked and eaten breakfast, we again embark and proceed on our voyage. The time allowed for break- fast is one hour. At two o'clock we again put ashore, for half-an-hour, to dine, this time eating cold provisions. At seven, or half- past seven, we encamp for the night. The Avhole oi' the lading is brought to shore, and the canoes themselves are taken out of the water, to be dried and repaired, if neces- 202 LIFE OP SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 184S :| sary. A tent is pitched, and if the ground be uneven, the floor is hiid with small flat branches of Canadian fir, which make a fine elastic carpet. This is covered with an oil- cloth, and our beds, rolled up, are placed for seats. In the meantime, some of the party have cut firewood for the night, and placed the kettle in a proper situation. The iryingpan is made ready, and, in about an hour, we have tea, ham and eggs, with biscuit and butter; no bad fare after a long day's voyage. Supper being ended, we enjoy ourselves a little at the fireside, talking to the voyageurs, or to one another, and one of the men, whose business it is, unrolls the beds, and we retire for the night, after having read or written what is necessary. I carry my Bible and Prayer-Book with me, and abo an excelleuu book by Bishop Wilson, which I find a great help to my devotions ; and, my dear son, I can assure you, from experience, that every care or danger is easily borne, when we ac({uire the habit of recurring to God for aid, and every pleasure sweetened, when we acknowledge that Ave owe it to Ilis bounty. In our own strength we can do nothing, and it is only by Ilis permission that we succeed in any attempt that we make. The whole of the country bordering the lake is thickly covered with wood, and much of the land is rocky and unfit for agricultural purposes. It seems, however, to be a remarkably rich mineral district, and this may be the means of bringing a considerable population to some parts of its shores in a few years. If any of my accounts of my journeys should give you a desire to see these wild coun- tries, and try this mode of tjavelling through them, re- member that your desire will be most likely gratified by becoming an engineer. Some of the Koyal Engineers are i 184S 1848 WINTRY WEATHER. 203 leven, the fir, which th an oil- I. ewood for on. The , we have bad fare we enjoy oyageurs, usiness it er having id abo an 1 a great an assure is easily D God for nowledge ength we that we s thickly )cky and er, to be be the me parts 8 of my Id comi- lem, re- ified by 2ers are generally employed surveying or making observations on the confines of Canada, and a party ol' them, under Captain Lefroy, are established at Toronto, the capitid of Canada West, for that purpose. I have little chance of receiving your letters, my dear boy, till I am on my return home, but I shall be glad to meet them as harbingers of welcome on my way back. Adieu. I commend you to the protection of your Hea- venly Father, beseeching Him to take you into His tender care. On the ice breaking up at the outlet of Luke Superior, they resumed their journey, arriving at Fort William on May 12, and the water-shed of the St. Laurence and Winipeg Valleys on the 18th. The season was cold and wintry, and on reaching Norway House, Lake Winipeg, he thus wrote to Lady Richardson on June 5 : — Our detentions and the wintry weather have been by no means pleasant, but I have endeavoured to repress all im- patience to advance ilister than circumstances permitted, and try to submit to the will of Him who orders all for the best. My companion, Mr. line, is the same cheerful person that I considered him to be at first ; but, to equalise the lading, we travel in different canoes, and our days are con- sequently solitary. The many hours I spend alone will, I trust, be of vital service to me in bringing me into closer communion with God. The motion of the canoe prevents me from writing, and the weather has very generally been such that I can neither read nor write. It is a great con- solation to me, at such times, to offer up jtetitions lor you and the children, and for all my friends and connections. H A ninv 204 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICEARDSON. 1848 ii I do not forget to pray for my enemies, though I am not conscious that I have one. They reached Cumberland House on June 13, having travelled 2,880 statute miles after leaving New York on April 11. Deducting the time lost by ice obstructions, the journey was remarkable for speed. It was also arduous, the ascent to the summit of the water-shed between Lakes Superior and Winipeg, by the Kamenistikwoya River, being made by about forty portages, and the descent to the Winipeg by a greater number. Scenes of pic- turesque beauty were passed, from time to time, one of which was the Thousand Islands' Lake, which forms the funnel-shaped outlet of Lake Ontario. ' The round-backed, wooded hummocks of granite, which constitute the more than thousand islets of this expanse of water, are grouped into long vistas, which are alternately disclosed and shut in, as we glide smoothly and rapidly among them in one of the powerful steamers that carry on the pa-ssenger traffic of the lakes.' Early in the morning of June 14, the pai-ty left Cumberland House, and two days later reached Beaver Lake. The season was now ' striding on- wards rapidly, and the tender foliage was trembling on all sides in the bright sunshine.' Cheerily they pushed on, encom*aged by the tidings that Mr. Bell, who had charge of the boats and stores, though long delayed by the ice, was now making good progress. 1848 1 1 am not June 13, r leaving time lost markable it to the Superior ^er, being iscent to es of pic- time, one :e, which Ontario. ■ granite, . islets of ig vistas, in, as we in one of assenger •arty left reached ling on- •embling by the e of the the ice. 1843 METHT PORTAGE. 205 The woods, says Sir John Richardson, in his ' Narrative of the Journey,' bein*; now in full but still tender foliage, were beautiful. The graceful birch, in particular, attracted attention by its white stem, light green spray, and pendent golden catkins. Willows of a darker foliage lined the river bank, and the background was covered with dark green pines, intermixed with patches of lively aspen, and here and there a tapering larch, gay with its minute tufts of crimson flowers, and young pale green leaves. The balsam poplar, with a silvery foliage, though an ungainly stem, and the dark elder, disputed the strand, at intervals, with the willows, among which the purple twigs of the dog- wood contributed effectively to add variety and harmony to the colours of spring. On June 18 the party reached the Churchill River, the boundary between the Chipewyan and Cree Indians. The navigation was impeded by portages; still they sped on, and reached Isle a la Crosse Fort on the 24th, to learn, with joy, that the boats and stores were still four days in advance. At Methy Portage, Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae overtook the boats. Here an unexpected delay occurred, owing to the transport horses be- longing to an Indian settler having all died of mun*ain during the former autumn. I had used every exertion, he wrote, to reach the sea- coast some days before the appointed time, expecting to be able to examine Wollaston's Land this season. This hope was now almost extinguished. The portage occupied nine A y I IS 206 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 184S days from the time of Mr. Bell's arrival ; but, with the assistance of horses, we could have passed it easily in three, and saved nearly a week of summer weather, most important for our future operations, besides liusbanding the strength of the men. The transport of the four boats, being made on the men's shoulders, employed two days and a half of our time. While these operations were being i)erformed, he wrote to his two daughters on July 3 : — My dearest Josephine and Beatrice, — I am now seated on the ground, near a small lake, about seven miles from one end of this long and, to the men, laborious portage, and four from the other. The hot sun beats through the tent and raises the temperature, while the mosquitoes crowd in at the other side, which we cannot keep shut, owing to a fresh breeze of wind which disorders the fastenings. I am, therefore, called off every moment from my pen, to remove the tiny creatures, that are increasing fast in size at the expense of the blood they draw from my veins. God said he would send His fly to drive out the Amo- rites from before the people of Israel. A short experience of travel in this country teaches one how small a cause may destroy the comfort of men, and also gives the lesson, that comforts so easily destroyed are not worth the wise man's aim. The future is to be his object. The present world has its duties, which bring their reward ; but the various illnesses, deprivations, and disquietudes to which we are exposed, teU us plainly, that whoever builds his hopes of happiness on any foundation but sincere love to God and His law, builds on a sandy soil. They who are constant in praying for His Holy Spirit to guide them in all 184S 1848 THE ELK RIVER. 207 their ways, are the most certain to have real enjoyment in this life. Most of the feelings which embitter the mind arise from some petty rivalries or discourtesies, and the sure prevent- ive is that divine spirit of love and forgiveness, which is generated by a love to God. My dearest girls, cultivate the domestic virtues. Be obedient and attentive to your mamma and govemess. Write often and kindly to your brother John, and be very tender with Willingham and Edward. I shall be happy to receive minute accounts of all your doings from both of you. One of your shortest letters would be a great treasure to me at Fort Confidence, and I hope you will, from time to time, write out fully how you spend your time and of all the occurrences in the vale of Easedale. God bless you, my dear children. Kiss your little brothers from papa. On July 3, the whole of the baggage and the boats were brought to the banks of Little Lake, and on the 6th, everything having been carried over to Clear- Water River, the canoe-men set out on their return to Canada, and the expedition re- sumed their journey. They proceeded rapidly, and on the 9th entered the Elk or Athabasca Eiver, a majestic stream, between a quarter and half a mile in breadth, with a considerable cur- rent, but without rapids, the speed attained by the boats being six geographical miles an hour. It is the most southern branch of the Mackenzie, and may be considered its source. At the Athabasca Lake, they met the Mac- v\ 208 LIFE OP SIE JOHN EICHAEDSON. 1848 Vi ■\ ■ kenzie River trading boats, under Mr. McPherson, who informed them wliat means he had taken for supplying the expedition with provisions during their winter residence at the north end of Great Bear Lake. Once afloat on the Mackenzie, they pushed for- ward with all possible speed, never landing, except to cook the necessary food; and during darkness, fogs, or when the men required a few hours' sleep, the boats were allowed to flout with the current, trusting that it would carry them clear of shoals and low islands. On through the Narrows, where this magnificent river is a mile and a half broad, and fifty feet deep in mid-cluinncl, they reached Point Separation ; and, in compliance with his in- structions. Sir John Richardson buried a case of pemmican, with a memorandum fur the boat party of the * Plover,' should they reach the Mackenzie from Behring's Straits. In September, 1849, Com- mander Pullen, with two boats from the ' Plover,' found the depot safe. Point Separation was the spot at which the western exploring party, under Sir John Franklin, and the eastern, under Sir John Richardson, sepa- rated to fulfil their allotted tasks during the former expedition, and a slight feeling of honest disap- pointment was felt by the latter when he thought of the way in which he and his companions in danger and daring had been treated by the House of Commons. * In performing these duties at this 1848 1848 THE ARCTIC SEA. 201» Plierson, ;aken for s during of Great shed for- g, except larkness, rs' sleep, current, 3f shoals vs, where If broad, reached :h his in- 1 case of oat party Mackenzie 49, Com- * Plover,' lich the Tranklin, on, sepa- le former it disap- thought mions in le House s at this place,' he says, m his * Boat Voyage through Ru- pert's Land,' — I could not but recall to mind the evening of July 3, 1826, passed on the very same spot, in company with Sir John Franklin, Sir George Back, and Lieutenant Kend.ill. We were then full of joyous anticipation of the discoveries tliat lay in our several paths, and our creAvs were elated with the hope of making their fortunes by the Parlia- mentary reward promised to those who should navigate the Arctic Seas up to certain meridians. When we puslied off from the beach, on the morning of the 4th, to Ibllow our separate routes, we cheered each other with hearty good will and no misgivings. Sir John's voyage lell some miles short of the Parliamentary distance, and he made no claim. My party accomplished the whole space be- tween the assigned meridians ; but tlie authorities decided that the reward was not meant lor boats, but for ships. Neither men nor officers made their fortunes ; and, what I more regretted, my friend and companion. Lieu- tenant Kendall, remained in that rank till the day of his death, notwithsUmding his subsequent important scientific services. On the present occasion, I endeavoured to stimulate our crews to an active look-out by promising ten pounds to the first man who should announce the Discovery ships. The estuary of the Mackenzie was reached on August 4, when a tumbling sea drove them to leeward, and a succession of stormy weather was experienced. Here Sir John Richardson fell in with the Esquimaux, but could obtain no informa- tion of the missing ships. h 210 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 184 S ! I Tlio expedition, after a journey of 4,500 miles from New York, liad now entered the fi(*ld of search, which comprised tlie examination of tlie coast from the mouth of the Mackenzie to the Coppermine River, and Wio shores of Victoria and Wollaston Lands lyinj^'* opposite. On Au<^nst 1 1 they entered the green sea, then coasted eastwards, endeavouring to gain infor- mation wlienever the Escpiiniaux were seen, and depositing provisions according to instructions. In a few days packs of drift-ice were seen, and stormy head-winds retarded their progress. After ahnost incredible efforts to advance through the ice-floes which obstructed their way, it became apparent that the boats must be abandoned. The disappointment was great. Sir John Richardson had hoped to deposit the boats and stores up the Coppermine River, beyond the range of tlie Esqui- maux, so as to be available for a voyage to Wol- laston Land during the followin"* summer. If left on the coast, the boats were certain to be found and destroyed. The 1st and 2nd of September were employed in preparing to cross the country to their winter quarters at Great Bear Lake. How solemn that Sunday morning, when, after breakfasting, the party united at six o'clock, and Sir John read prayers before beginning their journey ! Baffled in their enterprise, they were about to turn from the ice-bound sea, which held, firmly locked up. ^. 18-lS 1848 UNCOMPOETABLE QUARTERS. 211 k500 miles [le fi('l(l of ion of tlio izio to the ictoriu unci n sea, then ^iiin infor- seen, and structions. seen, and .'ss. After irontifh the it became ned. The !iichardson res up the the Esqui- e to Wol- er. If left be found employed eir winter lemn that sting", the lohn read Baffled turn from ocked up, the secret of the niissin*; ships and the struijii^le of their crews for life. Havin;^ committed their way unto the Almij^'hty, the party set out, carry inj^ thirteen days' pro- visions, cookinc];' utensils, hatchets, astronomical instninients, a f»»w ])noks, the amniunition, two nets, lines, a portable boat, and other necessaries, the load of each man beiny: calculated to weiirh sixty or seventy pounds. Wearily they marched on over hills covered with snow and tlirouL,'h half- frozen swamps, the discomfort bein^^ fre(piently augmented by the freezing of their clothes, which were wet in crossing streams, a branch of the Kendall River having taken them up to the waist. Our course, says Sir Jolin, iu his journiil, was sliapod directly across tlic country lor Doaso's Ilivfr, and as wo uscoiuled the high ^grounds, the fog became more dense, so that by noon we could not see beyond two or three yards. We steered by the compass, Mr. liac leading, and the rest following in Indian file. 1 ke[)t rather in the r^'ar, to pick up stragglers; but though we walked at a much brisker pace than usual, there was little k)itering. Tiie danger of losing the jvirty made the worst walkers })ress forward. On the hills the snow covered the ground thickly ; and it is impossible to imagine anything having a more dreary as- pect than the lakes which frequently barred our way. We did not see them until we came suddenly to the brink of the rocks which bounded them, and the contrast of the dark surface of their waters with the unbroken snow of their borders, combined with the loss of all derinite outline in the fog, caused them to resemble hideous pits sinking to P2 wjTT 212 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1848 /;■ 1/ it an unknown depth. The country over whicli we travelled is composed chiefly of granite; and after walking till half- past five, without perceiving a single tree or the slightest shelter, we came to a convex rock, from which the snow had been swept by the wind. On this we resolved to spread our blankets, as it was just big enough to accom- modate the party. There being no fuel of any kind on the Bpot, we went supperless to bed. Some of the party had no rest, and we heard them groaning bitterly ; but others, among whom were Mr. Rae and I, slept Avell. AVe learned afterwards that a clump of Avood grew within a mile and a lialf of our bivouac ; but even had we been apprised of its existence, we could scarcely have found it in the fog. Several showers of snow occurred in the day, and some fell in the night. On the afternoon of September 15 the weary journey was ended, the expedition having safely reached the winter station at the north side of Great Bear Lake, and found that Mr. Bell's party had the houses nearly finished. On the 17th all met in the hall, and Sir John read di- vine service, the fishers, employed about five miles distant, having come in to join in the Sunday worship. These services were kept up during the long winter, and regularly attended, even by th3 Roman Catholics from Canada. The day after the party arrived at Fort Confi- dence, he wrote to Lady Eichardson : — The whole party, thank God, got here safely yesterday, but I regret to say without hearing any tidings of the Dis- ^. 1848 1848 GKEAT BEAR LAKE. 213 we travelled ing till half- the slightest ch the snow resolved to li to acconi- kind on the ic party had but otliers, We learned a mile and apprised of in the fog. ', and some he weary ing safely li side of Ir. Bell's On the read di- five miles Fi Sunday uring the n by thj rt Confi- yesterday, >f the Dis- covery ships, or having it in our power to render assistance to their crews ; or rather, I hope that our not having been privileged to do this may be a favourable omen, and that they have either effected a passage in higher latitudes th^n those we followed, or returned to England by the way in which they cfime out. We reached the sea on the 3rd of August, and were soon afterwards beset by upwards of three hundred Esquimaux, who were very importunate in their demands ; but the strength of our party, well armed with gims, kept them within bounds, and we parted, after a troublesome interview of some hours, on terms of friendship. They are the most expert and determined thieves I ever met with, and suc- ceeded in abstracting a few things from one of the boats which had no officer in it. After this we advanced along the coast, which is fully described in the ' Narrative of the Eastern party of Franklin's Expedition,' and remained a few days at Point Atkinson, in the neighbourhood of a small party of Esquimaux, who were assembling there to chase the whale. With these people we were on very friendly terms, traded with them for sea trout, and made them many presents ; but even they could not resist the pro- pensity to steal. The weather continued good, and our voyage pleasant imtil we entered the Union and Dolphin Straits, wliich we found packed with ice, which rendered the air cold ; and on August 23, winter fairly set in, with hard frost and much snow which remained on the ground. The frost bound all the pieces of ice together, and we could no longer push our way among them. On September 3, all hope of doing so with success was abandoned, being at that time in Icy Cove, a narrow inlet not marked on •T^^^m^m^ \ \' >' u LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1848 i.. «l (f: < i the map, but situated about nine miles to the north of Cape Kendall. We left the boats at this place, and set out for Bear Lake by way of the Coppermine. On the same evening we reached Back's Inlet, and made our beds under a high cliff, where we slept soundly. Next day we came to the banks of a wide and deep river falling into the inlet, and should have found much difficulty and lost much time in crossing but for the aid of a friendly party of Esquimaux, who ferried us across with tlieir kaiyaks, two and two together. Some of these men had seen Deaseand Simpson's party, and they cfime to us without fear. They were fine manly fellows with open countenances, indicating content and cheerful- ness. Their dress was neat and clean. Their women, on the other hand, were dirty, had much inferior countenances, and looked all the worse .*'or the extremity of their fears, which they could not or did not attempt to conceal. Having rewarded these kind people to the extent of our power, and more highly than they expected, we resumed our journey, and next day crossed the Richardson by help of Lieutenant Halkett's portable boat, and the same eve- ning encamped on the banks of the Coppermine. There we had hoped to be met by a party of hunters whom I had appointed to be here in the first week in September, but the bad weather which arrested our progress on the coast prevented them from leaving Bear Lake, as I have learned since my arrival. We therefore continued the ascent of the Coppermine to the Kendall, which we crossed on a rafl and directed our course to Bear Lake. The following day we had a very thick fog, and having to cross some high hills covered with snow, we found no firing, and, wher evening closed in, lay down on a rock, — """^ 184S rth of Cape Bear Lake evening we a high cliff, the banks and should in crossing »vho ferried 'er. Some '. and they ily fellows 1 cheerful - women, on intenances, heir fears, eal. ent of our s resumed >n by help same eve- e. There liom I had nber, but the coast e learned ascent of sed on a tl having found no I rock, — 1848 LETTER TO LADY RICHARDSON. 215 Mr. Rae and I side by side on our plaids, with our two blankets, and an oil cloth over us. Under this covering we passed a comfortable night, though some of the men, whose blankets were of smaller size, lared worse. On this day the party in search of us lost their way, and did not recover their proper course ibr three days. Wo were more fortunate, and steering by compass were able to advance in weather that would stop an Indian. On the following day we came to a fine clump of wood, and were fully recom- pensed, by the excellence of our night's encampment, for the badness of the preceding one. We had plenty of pro- visions, geese, partridges, and venison, and greatly enjoyed our warm supper. The following day we were seen by a party of Indians, more than five miles off, who raised a signal smoke, know- ing, by having seen the party in quest of us, who we were. Our route was altered in order to join them, and we pur- chased a full supply of excellent deer-meat, besides hiring one of their number as a guide. lie led us iu three days more to Fort Confid€nce, by better, though not more direct, paths tlian we should have chosen for ourselves. The whole march was thirteen days, and I tliank God that I have suffered no inconvenience from the exertion, but, on the contrary, feel myself more able for a journey of similar extent than when I set out from the boats. Many instances of God's favour during the past voyage have been manifest to me, and I have had daily occasions for thanks- giving. On the whole, I have been in a most comfortable and happy frame of mind. Mr. Kae has taken the labouring oar and managed it well. The Fall Boat, as it is called, or the boat bringing our things from Norway House, being 216 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHAEDSON. 1848 the last of the season, has not yet arrived, and I am with- out further intelligence from home of a later date than that which I received at Sault St. Marie. How much I long for a few lines of your well-known hand to look upon. Dr. Rae has kindly supplied the following inter- esting details : — I shall pass over our journey through the inland rivers of the Hudson's Bay territory, and come at once to the boat voyage along the coast, from the Mackenzie to the Copper- mine River, which was a very trying one, on account of the ice which was packed close on the shore. Whenever we had an opportunity of making observations for latitude and longitude, we found that the former survey of the coast had been made with correctness. — When we were forced to abandon our boats in conse- quence of the young ice^ which was not strong enough to bear our weight", we were thirteen days' journey, for laden men, from winter-quarters on Bear Lake ; and as we did not know, from personal experience, the quantity of game likely to be found on the route, and were aware that the men could kill nothing for themselves either with net or gun, we had to take fuP allowance for the whole time, and Sir John, at first, insisted on carrying a part. When fully equipped and ready to start, he read prayers in a most impressive manner outside the tent ; and our ap- pearance, with gun on shoulder and loads on our backs, re- minded me much of what I had read of the Covenanters of old, when they \. :)rshipped in the glens and on the hill- sides, prepared at a moment's notice either to fight with or flee from their persecutors. The season of the year was the worst possible for travelling over a rugged country. There had been much rain, some snow and frost, but not 1848 1848 LETTER FROM DR. RAE. 217 I am with- than that uch I long upon. ng inter- Mnd rivers o the boat e Copper- unt of the never we itude and coast had in conse- nough to for laden s we did of game that the b net or ime, and prayers our ap- icks, re- mters of the hill- with or ear was Jountry. i)ut not sufHcient of the latter to make the soaked ground hard enough to bear our weight, so that the labour of walking was very great. Sir John once and only once seemed to suffer from fatigue on the journey. We had been up a hill full of half-frozen holes of water, when he was seized with spasm of the heart and with cramps, which he thought would prevent his con- tinuing the day's walk, but he recovered in a short time and was able to proceed. Our flour being nearly expended, we had little to live upon but pemmican, which did not agree with Sir John ; and he would not use the whole of the little cake which was baked for us each day by Albeit, but in- sisted on my taking the half, and it was only by stratagem that I could get him to have any other diet than I took myself. Fortunately, we were soon able to get a few ptar- migan, ducks, and geese, and at last a deer, so that the change of food quickly restored him to perfect health. On September 16, he -wrote to his eldest daugh- ter : — My dearest Josephine, — During the long and arduous voyage which I have now happily finished, by God's bless- ing, I have daily, and several times in the day, prayed earnestly that He would extend His protecting care to you and your sister and brothers. I trust He has heard my prayers and that you are all safe ; and moreover that you show your sense of Ills continued mercy and watchful, ever-present eye, by docility and kindness to those who have the rule over you, and diligence in performing your appointed tasks. I hope, should He spare uz to meet again, to give you an account of many instances of His good Pro- vidence which we experienced in our voyage ; and I feel ^1 I 1 m 218 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1848 i" that, without His sustaining hand, I should not now be seated, at my ease, in a comfortable room, writing this brief letter to you. May God ever bless you, my dear child. ' ^\e party at Fort Confidence consisted of forty- two persons, and the Indians were certain to be attracted, in considerable numbers, to the winter- ing-place of the expedition. To lessen, therefore, iju u.'j! tilty of procuring sufficient food, Sir John sent t Z' i^iiteen of the party to winter at the fishing stc'^-icn on Big Island, Great Slave Lake (ivo i;f thoi ..'ing intrusted with letters for England), to is. . j la Crosse, where the wife of one of them resided. The resources of the Fort were considered ample to maintain the remainder, and the winter was expected without anxiety. To secure abundance, however, he thought it pru- dent to continue a fishery at the west end of Great Bear Lake, lest the take near the Fort should fail. I 1848 219 t now be iting this my dear of forty- n to be winter- lerefore, 5ir John at the e Lake ters for wife of he ForL lainder, itj. To it pru- end of le Fort CHAPTEE XXII. AT FOUT CONFIDENCE — WINTEII EMPLOYMENTS STATE OF THE INDIANS NE.VS FROM ENGLAND DR. RAE APPOINTED TO CONTINUE THE SEARCH — THE RETURN JOURNEY — ARRIVAL RECEPTION AT HASLAR. 1S4S— 1849, On September 20, Sir John received letters from his family in England, and immediately wrote to Lady Richardson : — The Fall Boat has broiiglit us ample supplies. In order to bring our necessities \Yithin the resources of the vicinity, I sent a^vay half the men of our establishment, and Iiave now received penmiican enough to put us out of tlie reach of want, even though the season should prove unusually bad, of which I have no apprehension at present. Keindeer are numerous. The Indians are healthy and active ; supplies come in steadily, and Ave have abundance of goods to pay for them. I am thankful to God, whose providence in ordinary events can be more distinctly traced in a land like this, than in the complicated uuizes of civilised life. My public despatch and letter to you will have informed you, in brief tenns, that 1 examined the whole line of coast vM I 220 LIFE OF SIB JOHN BICHABDSON. 1848 mentioned in my instructions, with the exception of Wol- laston and Victoria Lands, which we could not approach for ice. Mr, Kae, with one boat, and a crew of active volun- teers, of his own selection, will perform this service next summer ; and to save government ilirther expense, I shall myself return to England as quickly as possible, taking all the English party with me to Norway House. I shall return by way of Canada, as it will be necessary for me to remain some days at La Chine to arrange the accounts. I hope to take my passage from Boston in one of the October steamers. I have a series of magnetic observations to make which will fully occupy my time during the stay here, and I in- tend to cross the lake, on the ice, after the snow is gone — that is, in the end of April or beginning of May. If I keep my health as well during the comparative inactivity of winter as I have done during the voyage and overland march, 1 have nothing more to desire, except to find all well when I return home. Their winter-quarters and employments are described in the following letters, written in the form of a journal, and begun on October 3, 1848:— Since I sent off my last letter, we have had a fortnight of unusually mild weather for the time of the year in this district. The snow disappeared even from the hills, a considerable quantity of rain fell, and the marshes became almost impassable. The untimely frosts, in August, cut off the usual supply of cranberries, and other fruits which this country produces. Not that they altogether failed, but they are much less abundant than usual, and of inferior quality. 1848 1848 WINTER AT FOET CONFIDENCE. 221 n of Wol- proach for ve volun- vice next se, I shall taking all I shall for me to cunts. I i October ke which and I in- s gone — If I keep tivity of overland • find all ts are in the ber 3, )rtnight ■ in this hills, a became cutoff ch this d, but Qferior On the disappearance of the snow, the deer, which liad begun to draw towards Bear Lake, returned to the north- ward, and our supplies of venison have consequently become scanty. Fish are also scai'oe. In no part of the world does the supply of daily food appear to proceed more directly from the Almighty. The agency of man is much more limited than in civilised lil'e, where, from the multiplicity of concurring agents, we are apt to lose sight of the good providence of God. Here, on the other hand, our supply of daily food is like the manna in the wilderness. Unless the wild beasts are driven to their usual haunts by the weather proper to the seas(m, and the frost sets in at the usual period, the hunter's skill avails not, and we also lose what is called the Fall fishery. The petition, therefore, ' give us this day our daily bread,' is felt here in its full importance. Indeed, if this expedition should be unproductive of public advantage, it will, I trust, produce the personal benefit of bringing me into closer communion with God. I have so many petitions to ofier lor you, the other dear ones at home, and the rest of my absent Iriends, and so much reason for thankfulness for the numerous providential oc- currences of the voyage, that I must be dull indeed were my devotional feelings not rendered more fervent. October 7. — 1 have been busy for the last four days in putting some instruments for observation on magnetism in adjustment, and shall have full occupation, during my stiiy here, in attending to them. I have had a small observatory built, in front of the house, so that I have a very short way to walk from the fireside. I may us well give you a short descriptive sketch of our residence and routine of life, which, I expect, will be very A I I . I ' 222 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1848 little varied till iioxt s])rin;j;. Fort Confidence is situated on a rising bank, about thirty I'eet fi*oni the borders of the lake, on the north side of the bay, into which Dease's River ialls. A large island, opposite to the house, divides the entrance of the bay into straits, the northernmost, on which the fort stands, being about three-quarters of a mile wide. The island rises gently to the height of about one hundred and twenty feet in the centre, and is well wooded on our side. The wood, within a mile of the house, has been mostly cut down for firing or building purposes. Dease's liiver is about three miles distant. When Mr. Bell arrived hero, in the middle of August, to prepare our winter-quarters, he found none of the build- ings erected by Dease and Simpson remaining, except a house for the labourers, and two chinmeys of the dwelling- house. All the rest had been burnt down by the careless- ness or wantonness of the Indians. Ills first care was to build a good-sized store-house of squared logs, let into grooved posts at the four corners, roofed with the same, the interstices being filled with tempered clay well beaten in. The dwelling-house w^is next commenced on a ground plan of forty feet by fourteen, having a dining-hall in the centre, measuring sixteen by fourteen feet, and the remaining space divided into a store-room, and three sleeping apartments. The chimneys are built of stone and clay, and project into the several rooms, occupying a good deal of space. We have floors and ceilings of planed boards, the walls being, like those of the store, of squared logs daubed with clay. Each of the sleeping-rooms has a glazed window, but the hall windows are only of parchment. We have well-made tables, beds, and convenient shelves in our apartments, and the carpenters are now busy framing chairs. In fact, we b'^.. ifl 3 wrjtf ? w ga 1848 1848 LIFE AT THE FORT. 22.'J s situated ors of the sc's Kiver ivides the on which nilo wide. ! hundred d on our ion mostly o's Kiver " August, ho build- except a JwelJing- careless- ' < >l loves God and His Christ, she will be a good child, loved here and happy hereafter. I send you a little sermon, because you are a little girl : but you are bigjrer and older than Willy and EdAvard, and I would, therefore, have you to be kind to them. Mamma told me in her last letter that you intended to write to me. Perhaps I may receive your letter by the next packet, which will arrive in the middle of winter, and it will be a nice Christmas gift. I am living so far to tlie north that the sun docs not rise here at Christmas; but the Sun of Right- eousness has risen for all quarters of the world, and His glory will fill the whole earth. Adieu, my dear Beatrice. May God bless you, is the prayer of your affectionate father. On January 21, 1849, he wrote to Lady Richard- son: — It is now time to seal up my letter, which is the last I shall have an opportunity of sending until I am within the humanities, I should perhaps say amenities, of a post-office. I shall, however, from time to time, set down my cogita- tions for your perusal on a wet day, such as "Westmoreland only knows, when the verdure of Easedale glows with a brighter green under its invigorating bath. I long greatly to have a peep at your golden fern, as it reflects the rays of the western sun, and still more for a quiet saunter with you along the Poet's Walk. When one strikes the key-note of home, it has the effect of the tune of ' Lochaber ' on a Highland emigrant. I have sent to Lady Franklin a sketch of Mr. Rae's intended proceedings next summer, and trust that if (which God forbid) nothing should be heard of the Discovt ry ships this year, she will be satisfied that this quarter has mmH^ 1841) hild, loved little girl : hvard, and MamirjH ■ite to me. xt paclvet, will be a th that the of Right- and His ' Beatrice, ffectionate Richard- the last I .vithin the lost-office. ly cogita- raoreland vs with a g greatly le rays of nter with key-note )er ' on a Ir. Rae's if(which iscovtry liter has 1849 A BIRTH. 2n lieen rigidly searched. Were it not for the dear ones I left behind, I should scarcely feel myself to be an unit of the great European family, and I could almost fancy at times, when in my solitary room of an evening, that I have never been anvtliinff but an inhabitiint of ml O these wilds. March 25. — Wo have received about 2,000 pounds' weight of venison and two musk cows, so that we are amply provided with provision for the remainder of the season, and can minister to the wants of the Indians. The fishery totally failed, and the Indians, who had been living but indifferently Ibr some time, foimd it necessary to move. About ten days since they came in a body to the fort and received rations from the store, with a supply for their journey on the following day. Two of our fort himters who had left their wives at the fishery, came to take them to their hunting-grounds, where, having b-ien success- ful, they had a small store of venison. One of these, a yoimg and very small woman, was con- fined of her first child in the morning, just as th(^. party began to move off from their rude huts of pine-tree branches, constructed in the snow a few hundred yards from our house. The new-born infant was wrapped in a deer's skin and stuck in a hole made in the snow, as the softest bed that could be found. When the intelligence reached the fort, one of the women went for it and dressed it by my fire. This event delayed the mother's departure an hour or two, Avhen she set out, taking her infant on her ba<;k and dragging her household goods on a sledge. She was not even permitted to walk on the well-beaten track made by the party who had gone before, as she would have thereby destroyed -the luck of the hunters, but had to make 232 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1849 a fret^h road for herself in the loose snow, parallel to the other. April 22. — A little before one o'clock in the morning of the 12th of this month, I was awoke by a man coming into my room to tell me that the packet had arrived. I dressed with all expedition, and after returning thanks to God for the blessing, and praying that the intelligence might be favourable, was speedily engaged with your dear commu- nications. I received, in addition to the letters by the ship, two others through the United States, the latest bear- ing date June 22, 1848. T did not go to bed again, and by six o'clock had read all your letters, and before break- fast had also taken the cream off the newspapers. A party of Indians, twelve in number, arrived three davs atro with dried meat from a considerable distimce, their journey having occupied six days. They were de- scried afar off by the inhabitants of the Indian lodges near the fort, and all the women and children came in front of the store to wait their arrival. The first act of the ncAv-comers was to rim the loaded sledges into the store-house, which was opened to receive them. The chiefs of the party Avere suffered to pass in with impimity; but as a young lad was crossing the threshold the women, with shouts of welcome, threw their arms around his neck, "while one of them cut the -strings of his knapsack and its edible contents were appropriated by the haq)ies. All Avas done in perfect good humour, and the young follow bore his loss well, as it is beneath the dignity of an Indian to quarrel about meat. The following passage, from liis ' Journal of a Boat Voyage through Rupert's Land,' shows that i ' 1849 Fcallel to the mornin,[^ of coming into . I dressed to God for 3 might be ar comrau- ers by tlie latest bear- again, and bre break- 'ived three e distiince, y were de- odges near in front of the loaded to receive :iss in with tlireshold lieir arms ings of his ed by the r, and the he dignity iial of a ows that 1849 SUNDAY SERVICE. 233 there was no time for ennui during the long winter at Fort Confidence. Two men were constantly employed as sawyers ; four as cutters of fire- wood, each of them having an allotted task of providing a cord of wood daily ; otliers were occupied in drawing it home on sledges, and four men were continually eni?a£red in fishincr. On the Sunday, no labour was performed, the fishing party came in, and all were dressed in their best clothes. Prayers were said in the liall, and a sermon read to all who imderstood English ; and some of the Canadians, though they were Roman Catholics, usually attended. James and Thomas Hope, who were Cree Indians, having been educated at Norway House as Protesiants, and taught to read and write, were regular attendants; and James Hope's eldest son, a boy about seven years of age, Avho had already begun to read the Scriptures, frequently recognised passages in the lessons he had previously read. During the winter, Mr. Rae and I recorded the tempera- ture hourly, sixteen or sevent'?en times a day ; also the height of the mercury in Delcroix's barometer ; the degrees of the aneroid barometer, the declinometer, and dipping- needle. Once in the month a term-day, extending to thirty-six hours, was kept, in which the lluctuations of the magnets were noted every two and a half minutes, and various series of observations were made for ascertaining the magnetic intensity with the magnetometer, the vibra- tion apparatus, and Lloyd's dipping-needle. Mr. liae ascertained frequently the time and rates of the chrono- meters by observation of the fixed stars ; and a register of the winds and weather and appearances of the aurora was constantly kept. w^ ■■ 234 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 184'J i! Both officers and men had their appointed tasks to perform, and enjoyed as much comfort as could be expected. It almost freezes the blood in one's veins, however, to think of an average tempera- ture over the 17th and 18th of December of fifty- five and a half degrees below zero. During that month the sun was absent ten days, rays of light shooting into the sky at the beginning of January being the only indication of his reappearing. If, before the setting in of winter, they had succeeded in conveying the boats and stores to a place of safety on the Coppermine, Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae would have resumed the search during the summer of 1840, and mutually aided each other in attempting to cross over to WoUaston Land ; but having now only one boat for that service, it became necessary to decide which of them should take charge of the small party it could carry. Sir John decided to give the command to Dr. Rae, who was in the prime of life and peculiarly fitted for the duty ; while, to save expense to the Government, he with as many of the men as were not required for the enterprise should return to England. On May 1, he delivered to Dr. Rae a memo- randum appointing him to continue the search in the direction of WoUaston and Victoria Lands. During the summer, Dr. Rae perseveringly en- deavoured to carry out his instructions, but as I84y ed tasks as could in one's smpera- of fifty- ng that of light Faniiary ley had es to a r John ned the lutually over to ne boat decide e small to Dr. 3uliarly 3 to the as were turn to memo- arch in Lands. ?ly en- but as 1S49 LETTER FROM DR. RAE. 235 Coronation Gulf remained full of impracticable ice, every attempt to cross over was frustrated. Sir John Richardson set out from Fort Con- fidence on May 7, and passed Great Bear Lake, on the ice, in five davs and a half. Referring to the winter spent together, Dr. Rae says : — Sir John's mind and time seemed to be constantly oc- cupied in useful pursuits, his recreation being tlie repeating of poetry, with wliich his memory appeared to be largely stored, and the study of the Scriptures. During the latter part of the winter I obsen-ed that he became habitually more cheerful and fonder of society, as if his mind had been relieved from some great care. The lateness of the season detained Sir John Richardson's party for a month. Bear Lake River, which flows into the Mackenzie, remaining impas- sible, from ice, till June 9. From Fort Franklin, or rather its site, as no vestige of their former winter home reaiained, he wrote : — This is an uncomfortable atmosphere for the gipsying life which we are leading, under an old stiil for a tent ; but the thaw advances, and the season for our release from Great Bear Lake comes, though with lagging pace. The mossy ground on which we are encamped has become a wet sponge, but the soil is still frozen ; and we had to cut a trench round the tent with a hatchet, to convey the water away that flows from the melting banks of snow lying deep on the hill-side. The red-breasted thrush, called in America the * robin,' i 236 LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1849 i I M ' ; i h 1 § f « t the golden -headed warbler, the white-headed finch, which whistles ' O dear, what can the matter be,' and several other song-birds, now enliven the woods with their notes. They begin singing immediately after midnight, and are most silent in the heat of the day, so that they are night warblers or nightingales. Geese, swans, gulls, and eagles are continually passing, all hasting to their breeding-places. They will leturn again from the north with their young in August. These periodical flights may be considered as the first and second harvests of the few Indian tribes scattered so widely over this extensive country. God deals as faithfully with them as He does with the husbandman of more genial climates. The sun in the clear spring atmosphere has a power which equals that of the tropics, and although there is a great difference between the temperature of the air here and at the Equator, yet the direct rays of the sun act with greater force on the skin in Rupert's Land. When the snow is filled with water it looks like frosted silver in the sunlight, and every little rising is studded with innumer- able polished facets, as if sprinkled Avith diamonds. The intensity of all this splendour soon becomes painful to the eye. Here only, of all the countries I have seen, can I under- stand the deep blue skies of some of the ancient Italian masters. Two days ago I was particularly struck with the pure China blue of the whole vault of heaven, a few sofl fleecy clouds floating seemingly far beneath, and giving the appearance of immeasurable distance to the blue profoimd. Towards the horizon it gi-adually soflened into grey, and blended beautifully with the snow of the distant hills empurpled by the rays of the nearly level sun. The depth of shade which marks out the low snowy Avaves of the 1849 1849 ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 237 inch, which 3VGral other tes. They I arc most ht warblers ly passing, viil letiirn 1st. These and second videly over with them climates. IS a power there is a le air here m act with When the Iver in the innunier- nds. The nful to the n I under- ent Italian k with the a few soft giving the profound. grey, and tant hills The depth res of the lake when the sun is low would surprise a painter brought here for the first time. The river wliich flows from this to the Mackenzie is now o])en, and the latter will be navigable ten or twelve days hence. From Bear Lake Eiver, lie wrote on May 81 : — We have been encamped here for eight or nine d.iys, waiting the arrival of our boat. The weather has been stormy, cold, and snowy. Tlu' snow geese are still passing in flocks, and we kill some daily, taking also fish by nets and lines set under the ice of the lake. Oiu* meals make a break in the monotony of our lives. On June 25 they left Fort Simpson, and arrived at Norway House on August 18. Here Sir John discharged the men who had been engaged in 1847, the Europeans being sent to York Factory to be conveyed to England in the Hudson's Bay ships. From Norway House he proceeded to Canada in a brigade of three canoes, manned by voyageurs who were returning thither at the close of their engagements in the fur country, and arrived at Sault St. Marie on September 25. Thence he travelled by steam-boat and coach to Montreal, and after spending a few days at La Chine with Sir George Simpson, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, proceeded to Boston. He landed at Liverpool on November 6, after an absence of nineteen months, twelve of them passed in in- cessant travelling. I ^■i ^i«i 1I^!^^«H VIM mmm ^«H« 238 LIFE OF SIE JOHN IIICHARDHON. 1849 i'! ITavinf^ presented himself at the Admiralty and laid before their lord8lii[)s a narrative of his proceeding's, he shortly after received a letter an- nouncing their approbation of his conduct. His arrival at Ilaslar is thus described by Mrs. Fletcher in a letter to Dr. and Mrs. Boott, of Gower Street, London, dated Haslar, Novembn* 10, 1849 :— Our traveller arrived by the late train on Wednesday night. He came in while the children were dancing to the tunc of 'There's nae luck aboot the hoos;' and you may believe that his entrance did not spoil our mirth, although it gave it a more subdued and (piiet character. He is, tluiidv God, in perfect health, nor could we extract from him a single conn)laint of the hardships and privations lie has suffered. It would do your hearts good to see with how much warmth of feeling he has been greeted by his friends, the oificials in the hospital, their wives, and children. It seems to me that sailors are united, by a sense of common danger, in a closer brotherhood than men of other profes- sions It was touching to see Sir Edward Parry grasp Sir John's hand and say, 'My dear llichardson, how very prlnd I am to see you ! ' — his eyes being full of tears, a\ Ik tried to conceal, but could not. follo.ving In Mrs. Fletcher's Journal is tL entry : — Although we had heard of his arrival at Liverpool, by telegram on the evening of Monday the Cth, he did not reach Dr. Gray's at the British Museum till Tuesday , 1849 •alty and ) of Lis itter an- • by Mrs. )f Gower ibLT 10, rcdnosdjiy iiig to the you may although '. lie is, IVoni him is lie has 3W much ends, the dren. It common r profes- grusp Sir -'ery gl.-ul 11<' ving rpool, by did not Tuesday 1849 AT HASLAR. 2'VJ fvcning. The lullovving morning he had to report himself at the Admiralty, where he was detained several hours by meeting Sir James Uoss, who had returned IVom the Arctic search. As the hour for the arrival of the train approacluid there was mucli excitement in the housfhold. The yomif?*^''' children were wisely set to expend their energies in dancing to the merry tunes their governess ])laycd to them, while mamma and Josephine were watching from a I'ront window for the lamps of the lly crossing Ilaslar Bridge. About eight o'clock on the evening of November 8 he was tliankfully received at his happy home. We all thought him looking better and yoiuiger than wlien he went away, and never were more lieartfelt prayers of thankfulness uttered than those he offered up with liis household that night. A succession of visitors, neighbours and friends, bidding him a hearty Avelconie home, poured in the following morning. Sir John did not attempt to sj)eak, but gladness shone in his face. The letters, which would have given so much comfort to his wife had they arrived in the spring as he expected, are now daily reaching Ilaslar, and aro full of family alFection, of trust in God's mercy, and of cheerful hope. One of the things most to be admired in Sir John Richardson is his having devolved the command of the expedition to be pursued this season, now over, on a man whom be conscientiou=lv believed to be better fitted than himself for the tiisk. IIow difficult it commonly is for a man to think any one better fitted than himself to do what he feels competent to undertake ! But, as he said. Dr. Kae is twenty years younger, with more experience of the coasts of the Arctic Sea, and having more resources at his l—i » . l iW >ll* ■■^lV|i«IL«|| 3S ■Mi 240 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1849 command from the appointment which he holds in the Hud- son's Bay Company. He had also had a year's experience of Dr. Kae's en-^rgetic^ enterprising, unflinching temper in the performance of his duty. It was sad to return without having obtained any traces of the crews of the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ; ' but Sir Jolm Richardson had the satis- faction of being conscious of having done his duty and obtained the approbation of Her Majesty's Government. 1849 in the Hud- experience 5 temper in obtained bus ' and the satis - J his duty Majesty's r f » I H -• 1 r 1 ,1 ■It- v-^( LiUKlou : Lou(^ni;in;; Hf C 241 CHAPTER XXIII. UCCLTATIONS AT LANCUIGG — IN EDIN'nUItGII A PAKTY AT IIASLAU DEATH OF EDWARD — HETIltEMENT FROM lIASLAli THE TKOSACHS DEATH OF JOSEPH INE — RECEIVES ONE OF THE ROYAL MEDALS INTERVIEW WITH MISS NIGHTINGALE THE BURNS CENTENARY PROFESSOR HCXLEY — DR. BAIKIK IN LONDON — IN DUBLIN — IN PARIS — LETTER TO DR. BAIKIE. . . 1849-1862. During tlie winter which succeeded Sir John Richardson's return fi'om Rupert's Land, his time was much occupied. In addition to his official duties, he had frequent consultations with the Arctic Committee, and reports and letters to write on the subject of continuing the search for the missing ships. On January 10, 1850, he received the thanks of the Lords of the Admiralty for papers, from which valuable memoranda had been extracted, for the use of Captain Collinson, who, in her Majesty's ship ' Enterprise,' was about to set sail for Beh- ring's Straits ; and again on the 25tli, for a clear and comprehensive paper relative to the probable supplies available for Lieutenant Pullin, of the ' Herald,' in making a boat voyage (Vom these Straits to the Mackenzie River. iHB 242 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. is.-o Early in March, he thus wrote to his mother- in-law : — The report, in this morning's paper, of Sir John Franklin having made his way to Behring's Straits is unsatisfactory. One cannot help clinging to what speaks so directly to one's wishes, but Mr. Peck, from Avhoni the information comes, says nothing of the gentleman who told him, except that he came from Kamschatka, nor how he got his knowledge, so that it may be only a whaler's report of Captains Kellet and Moore having been seen in Behring's Straits. In the month of May, Sir John, with his fiimily, spent three weeks at Lancrigg, the mountain home of Mrs. Fletcher, to which, in writing- from Fort Confidence, he had thus referred : — My chief object in mentioning my readings in Horace is to let you know how vividly the description of his Sabine villa has reminded me of Lancrigg. There mav be much difference between the moimtains in Westmore- land and the hills of Apulia, but Easedale has all the elements of rural beauty which the poet ascribes to his valley of ]\randela, and I do not believe that the stream of Digentia, fed by Bandusia, is superior to the burn uf Easedale nourished bv its mountain tarns. At the beg-inningf of August, he visited the Scottish metro olis, to be present at the meetings of the British Association, and was hospitably and kindly welcomed by many friends. Professor Ja- mieson, who had been Sir John Richardson's ear- liest instructor in natural histor}^ was still living, and able to take j^leasure in meeting and con- versing with his distinguished pupil. With Pro- II isno 3 motlier- lin Franklin natislactory. ctly to one's ition comes, except that knowledge, tains Kellet ts. bis family, itain home from Fort 3 in Horace ntion of his There may "West more- has all the ribes to his le stream of le burn v)f isited the meetings itably and )fessor Ja- Ison's ear- till livin<^, and con- |¥ith Pro- 1852 AN EVENING PARTY. 243 fessor James Forbes, Dr. Alison, Mr. James Wilson, Professor Christison, and others, he had a renewal of friendly intercourse. Mrs. Fletcher spent the winter of 1851-52 at Haslar, and her journal contains a pleasant de- scription of one of the social parties which fre- q aently enlivened the period of Sir Edward Parry's command : — Sir John and Mary had invited about thirty of their friends and neighbours to an evening party, to celel)rate my eighty-second birthday, on the lath of this month. The dear hostess and poor Josephine -were unha])pily laid i up with illness when the day came, so a cloud passed over our festivities ; but our good Sir John, assisted by iSir Edward Parry, put forth his strength in acting charades for the amusement of the party. Sir Edward had been experienced in this innocent amusement, havin":, durinji: the lone: nitrhts of his Arctic winters, often resorted to comic and pantomimic exhibitions to divert and cheer his ship's company amid tlie regions of ' thick -ribbed ice.' On this occasion, music and singing intervened between the acts, and afrer supper Sir Edward Parry prefaced his toast to my health by a very affecting allusion to the many mercies that had been spared to mo in my long pilgrimage, such a speech as filled my eyes with tears and my heart with thankfulness. Sir John Richardson took occasion, in thanking Sir Edward for me, to express the regret with which he, in com- mon with all the inhabitants of Ihislar, looked forward to the approaching period of Sir Edward's removal from a situ- ation which he had filled with so much honour to himself R 2 n— :4;T" m^m fm mmmmmm 244 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1855 and comfort to every one connected with the establishment. The evening was concluded by the merry dance of Sir Roger de Coverley, as a remembrance of ' Old England.' The days pass calmly and happily on at Haslar. Every- body is kind to me. Sir John is constantly occupied with his duties at the hospital, and in ' the recreation,' as he calls it, of examining and reporting upon various bones foimd in mountains of ice in Behring's Straits. This curious discovery was made by one of the ships sent in search of Sir John Franklin, and commanded by Captain Kellet. He also makes time in the evening to read some- thing aloud in the family circle, Mrs. Gaskell's ' Cranford' being the present favourite, and also to play a game or two at picjuet with me, which he says is good for my eyes, and I encourage it, to rest his brain. In the summer of 1852, the establishment at Haslar lost the paternal rule of Sir Edward Pany, who was promoted to Rear- Admiral of the * White,' on June 4. The death of Dr. Anderson, in the spring of the following year, was another great deprivation. At this cime, an epidemic scarlatina prevailed among the crews of her Majesty's screw-steamers of war ' Agamemnon ' and * Odin,' and Sir John's efforts were vigorously and successfully put forth to stay its progress. Early in 1855, Edward, his youngest and ten- derly-loved child, became dangerously iU, and though unusually occupied with official duties. Sir John took up his station nightly beside the little sufferer's crib, and all his nervous terrors were re- 1855 1855 DEATH OP HIS YOUNGEST CHILD. 245 ablishment. iince of Sir England.' ar. Every- cupied "witli tion,' as he rious bones -aits. This lips sent in by Captain read some- ;'Cranford' a game or or my eyes, jliment at ird Ptiny, 3 ' White,' on, in the :her great prevailed ^-steamers Sir John's put forth and ten- ' ill, and iuties. Sir the little s were re- lieved when his father was near. They had many happy conversations, and often repeated to each other their favourite psalms and hymns. The Scottish version of the Twenty-third Psalm was asked for by the little boy almost every niornin^^. It was Sir John's favourite, and to the end of his life he delighted to say : — T\ Lord's my shepherd, I'll not want. He makes me down to lie In pastures greon : Ho leadeth me The quiet waters by. Little Edward was a great favourite with the patients in the Asylum. He used to collect all sorts of pictures and story-books, to take to the poor sailors, and writing-paper for them to scribble over. Before the March winds had ceased to blow, his Heavenly Father took him to Himself. The situation of Director-General of the Medi- cal Department of the Navy having become va- cant by the retirement of Sir William Burnett, Sir John Bichardson applied for it, in the usual terms, to the First Lord of the Admiralty, Sir Charles Wood. After Fome delay, the promotion was refused on the ground of advanced age. In accordance, therefore, with a previously- formed resolution not to stand in the way of the advance- ment of others, he sent in his resignation, and was placed on the retired list of Medical Inspectors, having spent forty-eight years in the public service. ^^ssmmmmmmm 246 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1855 Many were disappointed at his not succeedinj^ to the office of Director-General. He was then in his sixty-eighth year, but possessed of a vigour of constitution enjoyed by few men in the prime ()f life ; and for ten years after, the amount of work, both bodily and mental, which he accom- plished, equalled that of any similar period of his singularly active career. He was constantly en- gaged in literary labours, and would waUc miles to jirescribe for the poorest person in the valley of Grasmere who might require his aid. On being relieved from duty, he retired to Westmoreland, and with determination of pur- pose and a contented spirit, set about devising some new occupation for himself. In the ' Times ' of June 28 appeared a letter from his pen, claim- ing, what is now generally conceded, for Sir John Franklin's ill-fated expedition the merit of having completed the Discovery of the North-west Pas- sage, though no one of the party lived to tell the tale. The autumn was spent amidst the beautiful scenery of the Trosachs, and was a season of real enjoyment. He delighted to climb the neighbour- ing mountains with his two youngest children, or to lead the pony of his eldest daughter, whose health was failing, to places where she could walk with safety. He had also a considerable practice among the cottagers, who speedily found out ' the good doctor' at the manse of Achray, and never . JsrrrTTBiii- ■ .- 1865 iicceedino" was then ■ a vi<]^onr the prime mount of e accom- iod of his ;antly en- z miles to valley of ^tired to of 2)ur- devising- ' Times ' 11, claim- Sir John )f havino; est Pas- • tell the beautiful 1 of real ig'hbour- Idren, or i', wliose lid walk practice )ut 'the d never 1.S56 LANCRIGG. 217 failed to show their gi-atitude by little unexpected l^-ifts. He was much struck with the intelligence of the men, and the interest which they took in the Crimean Avar. They often came to the manse to hear the news, or <^-athered round him at some turn (jf the road when he was readinjjf the stirrinnipre- hcnding a subject, and distinct in her questions, which wt-re calculated to bring out a correct view of tliL,' subject. Duriii<^ the winter Sir John Richardson was occupied in writing for the ' Encyclopa3dia Bri- tannica' an article on * Ichthyology,' and a ' Bio- graphical Sketch of Sir John Franklin.' From this little memoir, Lady Franklin has selected the words placed on the pedestal of the statue erected by Parliament in 1806, near the Athenaeum Club, to the memory of her husband and the crews of the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror,' — They forged tho last link with their lives. ' This,' wrote Lady Franklin, ' is but a small tribute of gratitude to the memory of that faithful friend and companion who, when all had perished, as revealed by Dr. Rae, stood up nobly and alone, 11 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHAEDSON. 1859 ill the first instance, to claim for Franklin and his f ulhnvers that meed of honour to which the priority of their discovery entitled them, bnt which the public did not at that time understand. The in- scription in fi'tmt of the present monument shows that the fact is now fully acknowledged, but it is to Sir John Kichardson we owe the first manly assertion of it.' In the autumn of 1857, he attended the British Association meetino-s in Dul)lin, and enjoyed the lovely scenery around Killarney Jir.d the wild f^^randeur of the Wicklow moantains. After loturninj^ t(j Westmoreland, hi: time was occuj^ied with the preparation of various scientific papers, the protracted illness of Mrs. Fletcher, who died in February 1858, also calling forth much of his sympathy and care. They had been long strongly attached to each other, and he watched over her last sufferings with unwearied attention. The Richard-^ons spent a part of the following winter in Edinburgh, and Sir John renewed his rambles in the neighbourhood of Arthur's Seat. At this time the Centenary Festival in honour of Robert Burns was celebrated, and he took a lively interest in that outburst of national enthusiasm, delighting to recount his early reminiscences rf his favourite bard. In the autumn of 1859, Professor Huxley, of the (fovernment School of Mines, dedicated his ■•«!, hy a visit to London, where he enjoyed the ph'asure of meeting with many old and dear friends, jiinoiig whom were Dr. Gray, of the British Museum ; Sir William Jackson Hooker, of Kew^ ; and his son. Dr. Josepli Dalton Hooker. Before returning to Westmoreland the mm. «i mmmm 251 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1862 .< M ;^ fl RicliJirdsoiis .liso spent a few days at Eton, with the Rev. Whartcn Marriott, wdiom Sir John had tended, with kindness and care, durint^ a lon<^ and dangerous iUness at Grasmere. His eldest son, John, had for some time been an officer in the Royal Artillery, and this summer, Willingham passed his competitive examination at Chelsea for Woolwich. Sir John met him daily after the forenoon i)art of the work, spoke to him encourac('upied y of the lence of )urse of in the ^iety. i 18G2 LETTER TO DR. BAIKIE. i)i) In the summer of 18G1, he left the f^^arden and his literary work to j^ive his youn<^est son a holi- day trip to Paris, where they amused themselves in learnino- the Parisian accent, and explorino- the city aud environs. The libraries and the for- tilications received no small share of their atten- tion ; but the father soon be<^"an to long fur ' the haylields, the copses, and glorious Rab,' his fa- vourite poet, whose works he was perusing, in connection with his philological studies. Writing to his friend Dr. Btiikie, then in Africa, on August 21, 1802, he says : — The lectures of Max IVIiiller on the ' Scionco of LangunGrc' have given a grrsat impulse to philological study, and greatly .siniplilied the mode of ascertaining the connections existing l)et\veen cognate languages. The writings of Dean Trench have been the nieatis of I'ounding a Philo- logical Society, and tliat society has undertaken a new ICnglish Dictionaiy. I sent a complete index of words used by Burns, with their significatiuns and cognates in Norse, Icelandic, or (Jaelic, as far as I could ascertain them. I have aiso read the oldest editions of Jiliad Harry's 'Wallace' and (iawain Douglas's 'Virgil,' to give mo a knowledge of the e:irly signification of Scottish words. The Philological Society would be a good mt-dium of [)ul)- lication of any remarks you may wisli to give u in giving your '^ 25G LIFE OF SIE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1862 fish to the world, if I should not be found to be Jiors de combat. John, my eldest son, is on the eve of obtaining his cap- tain's comniission in the Royal Artillery, and the youngest, Willingham, has just got his lieutenancy in the IJoyal Engineers. 1' 1 I ^BK 1 i| : 1, 1862 be hors de ng his cap- e youngest, the lioyal 25! CHAPTER XXIV. THE milTISII ASSOCIATION AT CAMnillDGB; lOUHNI.Y To ITALY — IN HOME liETUUN IIOMK AT NKWCASTLK WINTPFt IIKAD- IXGS VISIT TO DUMFRIES EXCUUSION TO DOWALTON LOCII — WHITSUNDAY SUDDEN DEATH. 1862—1805. On October 1, 18G2, the British Association mot at Cambrido-e, where Sir John Richardson, with his wife and daug'li^er, spent a few pleasant days under the hospitable roof of the Rev. Dr. Cookson, master of St. Peter's Colle1 m !, ,1' 1 258 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1863 I- I from Florence, and near midnight of the 29th drove throu<^fh the Porta del Popolo into the * Eternal City.' Here Sir John commenced his daily explorations with the ardour of yonthful student life, rather than of advanced a;:,'e. Before ten in the morning", he had arranged the pro- gramme for the day, taking his companions to the points of interest in a special locality. Thus three months glided past. The month of March, 186^3, was spent in visitmg Naples, Baiic, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Castella- mare, Paestum, Amalphi, and Sorrento. After witnessing the solemnities of the holy w^eek at Rome, they proceeded to Ancona, Ravenna, Padua, and Venice, returning home by the Tyrol, Inns- briick, Munich, Augsburg, Stuttgart, Brussels and Calais. The voyage across the channel was not longer than usual, but the sea was stormy, and Sir John became completely pr«>strated. In the journal kept by Miss Richardson is the following entry : — We landed at Dover, tliankful beynnd measure to be in our own land again, and more esjK;cialIy -vvhon we had the comfort of seeing my dear father so far restored as to be able to enjoy a refreshing s]r«rp. Next morning, he was much better, and we were enabled to give lieartfelt tlianks to God for His great goodness in preserving us in all dangers during G"ir absence from Old England. Sir John thoroughly enjoyed the returr to his 1863 tlie 29th into the need his youthful Before the pro- lis to the [lus three 1 visiiing Castella- o. After week at a, Padua, •ol, Inns- Lssels and was not , and Sir 5011 is the ire to be m we had estored as oriiing, he heartfelt ang us in d. i to his 1863 AT NEWCASTLE. 259 . books, his flowers, and his friends in the valley of Crasmere. The journey had been undertaken in order to ^'ive pleasure to others rather than to himself, but he had laid up a store of pleasant re- collecti(nis, and felt a new int(?rest in the future of Italy. The suniiner was pleasantly varied by the visits of friends from a distance, and a renewal of inter- course with the Dean of Westminster, Dr. Trench, now Archbishop of Dublin, and his family, who took lodj^ings in Easedale for the season. In September, the British Association met at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and Sir John Richardson became the guest of a family who, during a part of the year, resided at Grasmere. In reference to this visit, one of that family says : — When Sir Jcjhn eame in from the meetings, often, I should think, a good deal tired, for they were long and hot, he was mont kind in telling Avhnt had passed, taking es- pecial pains to be full and particular in the relatii)n to those members of the household who had been unable to attend. In listening to these conversations, I used to be struck with his care to ui)hold knowledge as a trust. If any one tlirow out an unwarranted speculation, lie would siiy (piietly, * We do not know anything, with certainty, there.' He gratified the Northumbrians by the interest whicli he took in their county and its veiy rich archieological re- mains, and on one of the excursion days, walked, a[»- parently without sullering Irom i'atigue, ior twenty miles s 2 2G0 LIFE OF SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1864 over part oftlic lioni.'in wall and the moors tliat lie to each side of it. Thon^-li in his sevonty-sixtli year, liis vi^-onr and activity continued nnintcmipted. On November G, in a k'tter to one of liis nieces, lie said, 'Yester- day was my birthday, and I took a holiday, and went to the top of Helm Cra^, and had a survey of the valley from the ' Lion a7id Lamb.' Durinj^ the winter, his time was chiefly occupied in reading old Scottish Jiuthors, and some of the ])rophctical books in Wickliffe's translation of the Bible. In the sprinj^ of 180 1, accompanied by his wife and daui>hl;er, he paid a visit to his only remain- ing- sister and other relations in Dumfriesshire, and took a ^-reat interest in the antiquities of the district. While visiting' his brother-in-law, Mr. Charles Carruthers, near Annan, he went to see the Eunic Cross at Euthwell Mjinse, tlie inscrip- tion on which, containing- a portion of a poem on the Cnicilixion, had long been a puzzle to anti- quarians and Avas first decij)liered by the eminent Anf^do-Saxon scholar, Mr. John M. Kendjle. In company wdth his brother-in-law, Mr. Hannay, and the late Mr. Trotter, sherifi-substitute of Dumfries, he also visited some remains of ancient habitations which had been discovered by the drainni|jj of a lake in Galloway. The weather was unpropitiousj and the adventures of the excursion i*vi •■\^ 1864 t lie to o.'ic'li ,'i^^onr and )voiiiber 6, , ' Yester- li(I1, Sir John liichardson, Mr. II;iiui;iv, and nivsell" druve Irom W.'gton, wlicre we liad sjxiit the j)revious ni^dit, to \)(>- walton Lf<'l., which is, I t]iiid<, about six miles distant. The ohject *>{' our visit w;i.s to insj)ect the lacustrine re- mains which were said to have l>een brought to light by the recent drainage of the Locli ; a subject in whicli .Sir John felt much interest. During our di-ive, the morning was lowering, and, when we reached tlie Loch, it rained heavily; but nothing etjuld damp the antiipiarian ardour of Sir John. For a])OUt a couj)le of hoiu's we traversed the oozy bed of the newly- drained Loch, ])assing to the several islands, where the remains are found, on very rude [)athwjiys formefl by loose stones and pieces of timber thrown into the s(^ft nnid by the drainers ; and I could not lielp admiring tlie firm elastic step Avith which Sir John i)ursued liis w.-iy, sur- mounting all tlie dilHcidties of the route in a manner wddcli men much younger in years could not well have surjiassed. Unfortunately, before our visit many of the remains of lacustrine habitations had ])een removed by previous ex- plorers, but we found still the upright beams and transverse mortised rafters, wiili the charcoal of tlie fires, and bones of tlie animals, wdiich had suj)plied warmth and food to the inhabitants. Sir John was much gratifi( day was nn^st atrrceably coiu^ludcd by the wliole party dining at my lion.se ; Sir Jolni a.s usual rendering tlie evening a eliarming one? by liis gcuiial dispo- sitio!i, and tin; stores of information and anecdote with which liis long life; of adventure and observation so copi- ously supplied him. Such Jire my recollections of a day which I shall long remember as one of immixed enjoyment. Durin<^ the suinnier, Captain Ricluirdson spent some time at Lancii^ ■<^ "P 264 LIFE OF CIB JOHN RICHARDSON. 1865 While walking to church, on Whitsunday, he spoke of the wonderful beauty of the expressions of Isaiah, and how glad he was that he had selected that book as part of his work for the Dictionary, having felt both pleasure and profit from the study. Wliile partaking of the communion, his counten- ance seemed to have diffused over it even more than his usual reverent, inward peace. Monday, June o, was a lovely soft June day, and Sir John spent the forenoon in quietly superin- tending some work in the garden. After luncheon, he and Lady Richardson drove to Ambleside and Rydal, making their first call at Dr. Davy's and last at Fox How, where they remained for some time, as Mrs. Arnold was about to go from home. Looking out on the lovely scenery, in its fresh June beauty. Sir John remarked that he wondered they could leave it. In the evening, he worked an hour or two at Wickliffe, and at ten o'clock read, at family worship, the seventh chapter of St. Matthew's ijospel. He then stood for a short time at the window, and said, ' We shall have the moon full, in our drive to Ambleside on Wednesday,' kissed his daughter and wished her good night, took from the table king Alfred's Anglo-Saxon version of the ' History of the World by Orosius,' lighted his candle and walked off with a firm step, which sounded along the passage as that of a man in the full vigour of life. About eleven o'clock, Lady 1865 SUDDEN DEATH. 265 Richardson went up-stairs. He was still awake, and spoke of his plans for the next day. A lon^t suspiration followed, and he passed through death to life. Thus calmly ended a life of almost unexampled activity and usefulness, uprightness, and humble faith. Of him, it may be said, * Thy sun shall no more go down, neither shall thy moon withdraw itself, for the Lord shall be thine eTerlastinjr liffht. tnid the days of thy mourning shall be ended,' I ; 266 LIFE OP SIR JOHN BICHARDSON. 1865 l'< CHAPTER XXV. SORROW AT HIS DEATH — LETTER FROM LADY FRANKLIN — LETTER FROM SIR GEORGE BACK LETTER FROM THE REV. W. B. MARRIOTT LETTER FROM DR. ANDREW CLARKE POLITICAL VIEWS — SCIENTIFIC LABOURS — CONCLUSION. 1865. The call was sudden, but to one who had spent his life in the service of God and man, and reached a good old age without experiencing mental or bodily decay, an end so gentle was not unde- sirable. It was a translation, without pain, from the duties of earth to the joys of heaven — a being * absent from the body, and present with the Lord.' The event, however, cast a shadow over the valley of Grasmere, where, during the last years of his life, he had done much for the welfare of the people. In his death, the poor lost a friend who had been ever ready to aid them in sickness or in sorrow, and not a few tears were shed as the dust was committed to the dust in the lively hope of a glorious resurrection, in the quiet churchyard 1865 80EE0W AT HIS DEATH. 2G7 of Grasmere, where he had so often been a humble worshipper. One of the verses of Scripture inserted on his tombstone is from the twenty-seventh Psalm, which Franklin and he used to repeat to each other, at Fort Enterprise, when too weak to hold a book : * I had fainted, unless I had believed to see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.' A lady, resident in the valley, writing to a friend, thus alluded to the event : — You in London, where interests arc so much more widely diffused, will hardly understand how absorbing is this grief in our little community ; indeed it is one that comes home to all, for all have lost a dear friend, or good neighbour, in the high and Christian sense of these terms. When the natural expression of deep sympathy with the sorrow-stricken family has been uttered, there comes from each one a personal lamentation. Every j)erson has some trait of him to mention: some deed of charity, accidentally discovered ; some act of kindness, or proof of considera- tion. One of our Wallers, whom I met to-day, aller say- ing a few words, which expressed his sorrow fur the loss of him * who was always glad to helj) a poor m.an, and thought nothing of the trouble,' added, ' Ay, I have lell my wife and mother at home crying, and no wonder.' The singleness of purpose which he showed was one of the most remarkable points of his character. He always seemed to do an act of kindness without a thought beyond, and as if it were but the natural thing. We have indeed u 268 LIFE OF SIB JOHN BICHASDSON. 1865 lost a good, kind friend, and the blank becomes more felt as the first shock passes away.' The manner in which he carried Christian precept into practice is also thus referi'ed to by another neighbour : — Sir John Kichardson was one of tlmse rare persons, to whom any one, whether high or low, might go for advice, help, and sympathy. They ware sure to have it, of the best kind, wisely, promptly, and freely given. It was quite usual, in any difficulty, to say, ' I will go and ask {Sir John, who will tell me what to do.' The poor people felt this strongly, and acted on it, never doubting his willingness to help. At all hours of the day, he would see those who came, and if a case of illness was mentioned, it seemed natural to hear him say that he would call on the sick person. All considerations of distance, personal inconvenience, or favourite occupations, were passed over. One of the most striking traits in his diameter was the simplicity with which his good deeds were done, not only putting aside all thought of self, but shrinking from the acknowledgments which his kindness called Ibrth from those whom he assisted or obliged. In reply to such acknowledgments, he always endeavoured to show that he was only pleasing himself. This was, in fact, the case, for doing good was his great pleasure. He was a true follower in his Great Master's footsteps. It was quite delightful to meet him in one's walks, ever ready with a playful allusion, pleasant remark, or apt illus- tration of whatever subject came under consideration. One never fell in with him without experiencing the influence of his happy state of mind, which shed its pure and bright light on all he spoke of. 1865 nore felt iristian I to by rsons, to r advice, t, of tlie It was and ask : people ting his oiilJ see ntiitned, call on personal d over, was the lot only om the Irom o such w that le case, a true s, ever t illus- 1. One Huence blight 1865 LETTER PROM LADY FRANKLIN. 269 Great was the sorrow which his friends at a distance felt when they knew that he had been re- moved from his labours — that they would see his face no more. From Lady Franklin came the tender expression of regard, — My heart is full, for ho was my husl)and*'s dearest friond, and their nioninries are inseparable. lie was very dear to me also. I loved and honoured him, and th'nk now, with the tenderest interest, of our last meeting a. liath, when Ids genial kindness went to my heart. Sir John Richardson's courage and coolness in danger were ennobled by the friendship which he cherished towards his companions in peril, espe- cially Sir John Fi'anklin. Sir George Back, the only remaining officer of the First Expedition, says,— No one conld perfectly understand the admirable (juali- ties of his nature, who had not been with him in trials of no ordinary description, even when life itself was in (jues- tion. In storm and sunshine, in plenty and famine, in moments of great danger, requiring unusual self-possession and coolness, he was ever firmly balanced and collected — a fine example to others. Wiih a keen sense of humour, quick to discern, and ready to apj)laud, he was ever a pleasant companion, and, better than all, a moral, good man. I can never forgot one morning (the beginning of our misery), when, crossing the Barren Lands irom the sea, we found the whole country covered with snow, and Franklin so faint, from want of food, that he fell down. ".J«i i^r mmmi wm 270 LIFE OF 6IE JOHN RICHARDSON. 1865 Kichardson drew from liis scanty stores for the «ick a few inches of preserved soup, and gently restored him, and then as we returned for warmtli and shelter, to our blankets, it heing impossible to move on, he begged us to take a few bits of gum-arabic, to check the cravings of the stomacli. Oh, how I remember tliat morning ! Referring to the friendship which subsisted between his father-in-law and Sir Jolin Richard- son, the Rev. John Philip Gell, >vriting to Lady Richardson, says, — Well as Sir John Franklin could sometimes express himself, I do not think he could have put into words the deep regard he had for your husband's noble-hearted and devoted character, nor the liappy reliance which he always seemed to place in liim — the happier, perhaps, because it was so UL conscious, for the most part, and so simple. To no one, probably, in all the numerous circle of liis friends, did your liusband attach himself, with a more steadfast and self-sacrificing affection. No doubt, it Wi»s founded upon what they suffered for and with each other, in the adventures of their earlier days, but it was sustiiined through many happy years, in sharing each other's home enjoyments and scientific pursuits. It was touching to see it break out again, in its first form, when your husband, already entered upon old age, lefl his home and family to seek Franklin, already dead; and more touching still, to notice the way in which, after his return, his tenderness seemed to overflow tcnvards my wife, for her father's sake, when he sometimes stayed with us in London. His oldest and most intimate friend, who knew V 1 1865 LETTER PROM THE REV. W. B. MARRIOTT. 271 him, in joy and in sorrow, for more than forty years, thus Avrites : — In tliiiiking: over our recent loss. I do not know tluit I ever felt anvtliin": more difiienk than to (Utcnuino what were tlie moat prominent features of his character. All things were so wisely balanced, that it was, I Ixliovc, oidy those who knew him best, that gave him credit for all he possessed. I ollen feel I could sjiy more about a very inferior man. lie was so good, so consistent, so laborious, so always thinking and actiijg for others, in iact, always doing great acts, though but in the ordinary demands of daily life, that the greater and more remarkable pc-ints which have been dwelt upon were really but the sjune abiding spirit intensified and brought out into more promi- nent action by the peculiar incidents of the various situ- ations in which circumstances placed him — a child-hke trusting affection was the foundation of a chivalrous courage. I should think it hardly possible to find a more perfect man, in body, soul, and spirit — strong, deep, and true. The Rev. Wharton B. Marriott, of Eton, whom he had attended, with fatherly care, durinjj a lon^ and critical sickness at Grasmere, says, — He was one whose very aspect told much of the goodness and beauty of his character. Esj)ecially I re- member being struck, on the few occasions j)ieviously to Diy illness on which I met him, with a calm gravity and seriousness of demeanour, as of one on whose mind the solemn realities of this world and of the other were very deeply impressed, and with this there was a calm of out- ward manner, that reflected, so I thought, an inward 272 LIFE OF SIB JOHN BICHABD60N. 1865 II'.' quietness and confidence of spirit — God's gift to good and faithful men — to whom the thought is ever present, that over all the changes and chances of this troubled world there is One who changes not, who sees and directs to issues of Ills ordaining, the counsels of all men, and the events of all tilings. One feature of his character impressed itself strongly on me, namely, the remarkable simplicity with which lie spoke and acted, sjiying and doing, on all occasions, exactly what the occasion recjuired, as if by an intuition upon which he acted without consciousness of effort. lie seemed to me to be one to whom the highest principles of action were so habitu.'illy present, that he could sec, with clearest percep- tion, where others would have been in doubt, and act, as by an inward instinct, and without any thought of a second cause. What in others would have been a triuinj)h of self- mastery, or self-denial, was in him only the following out of the path of duty by one who habitually was led by the Spirit of God. The active Christianity of Sir John Kichardson exercised a salutary mfluence on the young medi- cal officers who served under him. Dr. Andrew Clarke, of Russell Square, London, in reply to a letter from Lady Richardson thus wrote : — I cannot let a post pass without acknowledging your letter. No one knowing anything of the inner life of my revered friend could read that letter unmoved ; and me, who in days past had the privilege of seeing dee])ly into that inner life, who took from it, insensibly, the tone of my whole life, and spoke of it, among the few to whom I \i i 1865 1865 LETTER FROM DR. CLARKE. 273 )od and nt, that 1 world rccts to and the ngly on \(i spoke tly what diich he d to me were so ; pCTCep- 1 act, as a second h of self- wing out d by the lardson medi- jondon, m thus bg your \g of my ind me, kply into tone of kvhora I i could Bpoak of sucli subjects, as a typo of true greatness, and a living example of the manner in which Christianity may become a fruitful life, rather than a barren creed, — ine it has moved most deeply. And now, when I think of his finely balanced nature, of his earnest, truthful soul, of his largo, powerful intellect, of the fitting form in which they dwelt ; when 1 recall to mind his rare sense of right, duty, and justice, his abhor- rence of falsehood and all manner of subterfuge, his love of nature and all that was real and true, his freedom from finesse and alTectation, his modesty and self-denial, his generous appreciation of others, his perfect naturalness and uniform consistency, — I can see how great and good a man he was ; 1 feel how much of the little good, which 1 have brought forth, is the fruit of seed which he had planted, and that now, in my maturer years, seeing him by the help of a purer and greater light, I could have loved him with my whole heart. In Sir John Richardson, a powerful intellect, simplicity of manners, modesty, candour, and ab- horrence of anything mean, were combined in a rare degree. His retiring nature did not interfere with his taking an active part in every good cause, kindliness of heart and reverence for duty always overcoming inherent shyness. His firm grasp of facts, so as to draw from them a true deduction ; the clearness of his judgment, which almost intui- tively formed a correct estimate, both of men and things ; and, above all, his deep reverence for God, and earnest faith in the saving power of Christ and Christian truth, were remarkable. T 274 LIFE OF 8IR JOHN BIOUABDSON. 19C5 Sir John Richardson never attached himself to any political party, but his sympathies were strongly in favour of prop^ress, and ho rejoiced in every step taken to improve the public depart- ments of the State, or the social condition of the people. In a letter to me, dated July 7, 185G, he says, — TIktg is no i)olltical news of* great moment now. The difficulties witli llie American Government, which were electioneering affairs from the beginning, on the other side of the Atlantic, arc in a fair way of terminating. Europe is more unsettled, and tliere is evidently a fire kindling in the Italian Peninsula, which may eventually shake the Austrian dominion to pieces. Meanwhile, a social revolution is going on in our own land, silently, and therefore not heeded, but nevertheless, surely. I mean the competition for Government appoint- ments, and the giving to talents and acquirements what was before monopolised by money and influence. The Chinese were tlie only people who admitted the principle, l)Ut it was in a great measure inoperative witli them, from the exclusive cliaracter of their national literature, and the general corruption that prevailed throughout their country. They had the form, without the essence, of a theoretically excellent scheme. I hope that the practical character of the English people will turn the experiment to good ac- count, ])ut honest examiners in the chair, and turn out an efficient body of public men. The Government, at the same time, ought to take care that no looseness of practice creeps in, and that a high sense of morality should pervade the emjiloyes. Hitherto 1865 SCIENTIFIC LABOURS. to our public men have been, nB a body, irrrproachable in regard to a sense of public duty and honour, notwith- standing some Had except ionH. One cannot lielp ghmcing at tlie probable future of Great Britain. The improvement has been great, espe- cially in Scotland, during the nearly threescore and ten years of my life. In my boyhood, all the men of any liberality in their modes of thought were * black-nebs,' and shunned more carefully, by the correct multitutle, than a drunkard or a thief. One cannot but rejoice in the im- provement of things, and pray that the future progress may be in the right piith. Of Sir John Richardson, as a man of science, Dr. J. E. Gray, of the British Museum, says, — The most strikingly distinguishing features in his cha- racter were his extreme caution in the verification of fact% his modesty in speaking of himself and of his doings, and liis untiring energy in the carrying out of whatever duties he undertook to perform. His caution originated in his entire devotion to truth, which caused liim to consider no extent of research too laborious for its acfjuirement, and generated a feeling of the most implicit confidence in all liis statements. His modesty was especially conspicuous in the extreme difficulty witli which he could l)e induced to speak, cither of his travels or adventures, or of his professional or scien- tific labours. His energy was strongly evidenced in every part of his career, in the extraordinary difficulties and perils which he encountered on liis various expeditions, in his unwearied attention to his professional duties, and in the extent and impoitance of his scientific labours. t2 27G LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1865 i i! It would scarcely bo proper for me to speak of his geo- gra[)hical, meteorological, and magnetic contributions to science. I can only vouch for his great diligence in f)b- sorving, and for the extreme accursicy of all his oliserva- tions. Kvery precaution was constantly taken by him, that no fiict should be stated, and no infen-nco drawn, in the accuracy of which he had not the most perfect faith, and he never attemi)t«'d to push liis conclusions beyond what the observations justified. Of his zoological labours, which T have watched with deep interest, throughout the whole of his career, I may be permitted to speak uioro decidedly, and to these I will now more particularly direct my attention. On his return from his second Arctic expedition, ho j)ublished his ' Fauna Boreali-Anu'ricana,' illustratod with beautiful plates. This work at onco became and still con- tinues to be the standaid work on the zoolojiv of British North America. The manmialia and fishes were entirely by himself, the l)irds l>y Mr. Swainsou, who also drew the plates, and the insects by INFr. Kirby ; but the whole Avork was edited by himself, and the care and accumcy Avith which he collected together both the early history of the species, and the recent facts connected with them, can oidy be estimated by one who has been engaged in similar investigations. It must bo remembered, too, that at this period our zoological collections were small and imperfect, and the materials had to be sought in distant and scattered localities. In very many instances it was necessary to send instruc- tions to the difTerent fur stations of the Ilud.son's Bay Company to collect and transmit specimens for examination and description, and eventually the specimens thus pro- r— r;7~^^t— .■Ai'-.g::-:::^:::- 1865 18()5 ICHTHTOLOOIOAL LABOURS. 277 ' hirt gco- mtions to CG in ol)- observa- hy l)iin, (Iniwn, in (bet fuith, 3 beyond ;hp(l with IT, I niav est* I will lition, bo •jitcd with still con- f>f British 3 entirely drew the lolc work i-noy with •y of the can only similar •iod our and the )ralitiea. instruc- \nn Ray iiination inis pro- cured were transferred by the Company to the British Mu- seum, where they form some of the most valuable and in- tercf^ting additions to the national collection. After the publication of this great work, he cliiefly confined his researches to ichthyology, and from this time became, par e.rrcflefirr, the ichthyologist of England, to whoso superior knowhidgi; and excellent judgment every one referred for information on all subjects connected with fishes. At the request of the British Association, he drew up an elaborate report on the ichthyology of China and Jjipan, t'lking for the basis of his work a fine collection of Chinese fishes, presented to the British Musetmi by the late Mr. Reeves, and a collection of drawings, made under the direction of tlie same gentleman, during his long residence at Canton. To various voyages of survey and discovery, such as those of the * Sulj)hur,' the 'Terror,' and the ' Herald,' he contributed most interesting appendices, descriptive of the animals, and especially of the fishes, observed during tlieir progress, wliich are illustrated by figures of several hun- dred species new to science, and by important observations on their characters, affinities, and haliits. In that of the * Herald/ he also described and figured a number of fossil- bone mammalia, found at the Eschscholtz Bay, on the north-W€>st coast of America, and g:jve an account of the osteology of some existing American mammalia. Many papers on tlie fishes of Australia and New Zealand were also pul)lished by liim, in connection with different voyages, and in the ' Aimals and jNIngazine of Natural History,' and these were followed by a beautiful com- mencement of a work, in quarto, in which he gave figures of a number of interesting and finely-coloured species, 278 LIFE OP SIR JOHN RICHARDSON. 1865 from drawings made in Australia, under the title of ' Icones Piscium ; or, Plates of Kare Fishes.' In an excellent article on ichthyology, in the ' Encyclo- paidia Brit.innica,' he gave a capital resume of all the genera of fishes, which affords the most complete view of the present state of ichthyological science. And he super- intended the publication of the second edition of Yarrell's ' British Fishes,' to which he added an essay on the generic arrangement of fishes, giving also the generic characters, which had been unaccountably omitted in the first edition, and arranging the species in accordance with the modern classification. A complete list of his various publications, on ichthy- ological subjects especially, would occupy a very large space, and certainly no one in England has contributed so largely, or so accurately, to our knowledge of the fishes wliich inhabit almost every region of the globe. In his earlier days, Sir John paid particular attention to the study of botany, and his botanical appendix to Captain Franklin's * First Journey ' is one of the most accurate and carefully prepared catalogues of the plants of a remarkable region that has ever been published. He wrote valuable papers on *Tlie Geology of the Fur Countries ;' ' The Aboriginal Indians ;' * Climatology ;' ' The Frozen Soil of North Ame- rica ;' * The Distribution of Plants in the Territory North of the Forty-ninth Parallel of Latitude,' and on a variety of other subjects. In addition to his scientific works, there appeared, in 1851, his ' Journal of a Boat Voyage through Eupert's Land and the Arctic Sea,' in two volumes, and. S Jt 1865 title of ^ncycio- e genera \f of the e super- Yarreirs 2 generic laraeters, b edition, J modern 1 ichthy- pry large ntributed the fishes j. In his to the Captain urate and markable logy of dians ;' h Ame- erritory titude,' ition to 51, his ,upert'8 , and, JSbS HONOURS. 279 ten years later, a most interesting and instructive volume on * The Polar Regions.' The same painstaking ability which he mani- fested in his scientific writings was apparent in his contributions to the forthcoming * Dictionary of the Philological Society.' The editor, in ad- dressing the members, on October 2(5, 1865, said, — We have suffered a great loss in the death of Sir John liichardson, one of the most careful an -^ i4\ 't \-^ ^v>^ \G-\j (U^ t I VI "^ •SN / U - ^Vt) - / C u. - /Ct/-S' t""V*-A.- ^.^ \ ^ ^^ 1 f ~> r -n ( 4' t /