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Tous las autres exemplairas originaux sont filmAs en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration at an terminrnt par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaltra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole —^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmAs A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich*, il est film* A partir de Tangle sup*rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la m*thode. 1 2 3 1 fwp.'i . ' ^f.^ u < <,mi w* HARPER'S KEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. NO. CCXLIV -SEPTEMBER, 1870-VoL. XLL TITE MEDITERRANEAN OP THF PACIFIC. ^^^■^ rOBT TOWM8END. IT is only n few years ngo since the " Great Xorthwei't" indicated the States of Minne- sota, Illinois, Michigan, and the States between New Kngland and the Kocky Mountains. Since that time the cry of gold has led thousands of our population across the Rocky Mountains and the glistening peaks of the Nevada range, to the sunny slopes and verdant valleys of the Pacific. Thriving cities have arisen on the plains where roamed huge herds of buffalo. The regions where half- savage Indians reared cattle, and where the traders and trappers of the Hudson Bay held almost undisputed sway, are now organized por- tions of the republic, with recognized laws and promising institutions. California is now a rich and settled State of the Union, with a future the greatness of which wo can only conjecture. The river banks of Idaho and Montana are dot- ted with camps of gold and silver miiiers — the hardy pioneers of a great and prosperous coun- try. The broad prairies and the beautiful val- leys of Oregon are filled with a sturdy race of agriculturists ; the cars creep along the fast- nesses where the Indian could scarce find a trail ; and the steamers ply for nearly a thou- sand miles from the mouth of the Columbia — that Achilles of rivers. In Washington Terri- tory, so long the debatable ground, and the scene of Indian massacres, the lumbermen arc cutting their way into the old forests ; and fleets of trading vessels are lying at anchor in its har- bors. Nay, far north, beyond where the Nootka savage strings his shells, and the hardy Hydah shapes his canoe, Alaska is heard knocking nt the gate of the republic, seeking entrance where so many others have entered in, " Westward Entcrpd according to Act of ConRress, tn the year 1870, by Harper and nrolheni, In the Olerk'S Office of the District Court of the Uulted States, for the Sontheru District of New Yor:. Vol. XI.I.— No. 444.-81 482 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. the star of empire takes its way." Illinois is no longer in the far West. Minnesota and Nebraska ate only fVontier States on the way to the "tme Northwest." The railway linking the far West to the far East was opened in July last. The full significance of that important announcement can scarcely be estimated. It will change the aspect of a great and productive region. The Indian already stands aghast as he sees the line of cars — that greatest of all great " medicines" — rattling along the plains where he hunted the buffalo, and with- draws to the northward. He hears in the whis- tle of the engine the death-knell of all his race. The trapper hears it, and hurriedly gathers up his traps and little " fixins," and, with his kquaw and half-breed brood, retreats before the surg- ing flood of immigration. They hear, not afar off, "the rush of waves where soon shall roll a human sea" — a sea that shall sweep them be- fore it. Those regions, of which many knew little, save by the tales that came floating back of the exploits of Jed Smith and Kit Carson, the hardy pioneers; of Skipper Gray, who first MAP or PDOR BODICD, breasted the breakers on the bar of the Colum- bia ; of Captain Bonneville, who made his way to them by land ; of Sutter, who found a bank of gold in his millrace ; nf old Downie| ycleped "Major," who always "stnuk it" where he slept — these regions have all been brought near by the railway. Thousands have loft their homes in the East for a month's vacotion and a trip to California during the last summer. I'he/ have been to see us and gone away again, to tell of our snow-tipped mountains, and giant forests, and rocky gulches, with the glittering gold, and pleasant corn-covered valleys and vino-clad hills. To us in the West it seemed as if New York and Philadelphia and Chicago had gone out "on the tramp." In August the writer met an authoress from New York in the Willamette Valley, a professor from Iowa away up at the Cascade Falls of the Columbia, a couple of Senators from Washington staging it through an Oregon forest, the Governor of Il- linois at a social gathering in Portland, dined with the Vice-President on board one of the Oregon Steamship Company's vesseis, near to the 49th parallel, had a drink with an Eastern editor in one of the ice-caves of Wosh- ington Territory, ond spent three of the happiest daj-« of his existence with Sew- ard and his party, on the pleasant waters of the Puget Sound. And no sooner has one railway been opened than another is proposed. The en- gineers have already been out and made the survey. The Northern Pacific is spoken of as a rivr.l to the Central Pa- cific, and the land- holders and lot-hold- ers of the Puget Sound are discussing the location of the great terminal city. The eyes of all are turned to a spot which is destined to play no mean part in the history of our nation- al progress and civil- ization. Bills maybe proposed and defeat- ed,particulnr schemes may be discussed and delayed ; but let any one take a look at the position and contour of the northwestern comer of our conn- try, and he will be I ". THE MEDITERRANEAN OF THE PACIFIC. 488 convinced of its importance, and foresee its manifest destiny. Therr. is a great inland sea stretching up 200 miles from Cape Flattery, studded with fertile islands, surrounded by pine-covered heights, and nearer, by 801* miles, to China than Sun Francisco — and nearer, also, to New York. Instead of sage-bush desert and salt plains, there is a fertile belt, under which lies a bed of miocene coal, stretching all the way from Illinois to Washington Territory. Let any one consider the increasing commerce with China, of which we hove merely tasted the first- fruits, and acquaint himself with the character of the country behind it, and i.i^ ivill perceive why so much attention has been directed to this part of the republic ; lie will bo satisfied of the wisdom manifested in preserving intact the boundary line which terminates so near it, and discern a reason for ihe present anxiety to push through the Northern Pacific liailway. If ocean steam is ever to become on the Pa- cific what it has been on the Atlantic — if our re- lations with Eastern Asia are ever to be what they have been with Western Europe (and why should they not?) — the Puget Sound must be- come one of the centres of the world's com- merce. Ship-building lags in the East, through the difHcidty and ex{>ense of importing lumber. The United States have never taken the proper position of a great commercial country in this industry. Survey all their coasts, and say whore is its natural home. Where can safe harbors be most easily found ? Where is timber the most abundant and of easiest accoss ? The oye will at once rest upon tho Puget Sound, with its endless windings and openings into the land — with its sheltering islands, and numerous natu- ral harbors, where land, covered by the finest spars of the world, can still be had for the mere pre-emption. The writer has often passed up and down on its unruffled surface, and never did his eye sweep along its bays and pine-clad hills without his feeling something of its coming glory, and wishing to be spared for ten or twen- ty years to perceive the ships at anchor whore now the whir of the duck alone breaks in upon the silence of the bay — to see the wretched "rancheree," where these Indians wallow in filth and lust, transformed into a smiling village — to realize that these shanties of the lumber- men and whisky saloons have become large cit- ies. This impression was greatly confirmed last summer, when he accompanied the Hon. Mr. Seward and his* family along the sound. The citizens at all the lumbering - mills and small cities gave right royal welcome to tho •'old man eloquent," and called for an address. He appeared -to have looked through the pres- ent, and seized only upon the future. His mind was filled with that — the issue of what he saw ; for he never addressed them as lumbermen or saw-drivers — he addressed them uniformly as ship - builders. Ho saw in their saw -dust streets and rude cabins the be^rinnings of the things that were to be. For as yet but few vessels have been built on the sound, and, at 1(}3376 the time, there was not one on the stocks any where. That there will be a Northern Pacific Rail- way terniinnting somewhere at or near the Pu- get Sound is certain. The only question is, whether it will be on American or British Ter- ritory. Tho English are not blind to the ad- vantages of tho northern route, and are anx- ious to gain them for themselves. The im- perial policy is to^ite the North British pos- sessions into one confederation before the feel- ing of annexation becomes stronger. British Columbia, tho colony on tho Pacific, insists upon a railway as one of the conditions. Al- ready a company has been formed, and appli- cation made at Ottawa for a grant of alternate sectionsof landalongtho route proposed. There can be but one northern railway : which shall it bo ? One that will stretch through the more fertile northern belt, leading up a population to settle on the boundaries, and consolidating American interests, or a railway supported by British capital, aud managed in British inter- ests, building up a rival domain on tho con- tinent ? On the supposition that it will be American, we give this sketch of the region around the terminal point. We do not propose to discuss the merits of rival claimants, and having nei- ther lot nor plot in any of the proposed loca- tions for the " big cities of the future," give the result of observations during four years' resi- dence near this Mediterranean of the Pacific, but more particularly during a holiday trip last summer with the " Seward parf..'' In July last Allan Francis, Esq., United States Consul at Victoria, Vancouver Island, a beautiful little British city that looks across to the Puget Sound, gave out that " Seward will be here on his way to Alaska." We hurried up, and prepared a suit of rooms and a re- ception for him. British and American citi- zens vied with each other in doing him honor. At last the big ship made its appearance in Esquimaux Harbor, near the city, having on bo. i THE MEDITERRANEAN OF THE PACIFIC. 48a t^ eaatern extremity. The nearett of these hor- borii, called Port Discovery by Vancouver, he- caase it wan the first in those parts he en- tered in the Discovery. It is guarded by a small island, called also by him Protection Island, because of its position. Our thoughts reverted to that Sabbath morning in May, 1792, when he cast anchor there, and land- ed with his officers on the island, surprised and delighted with its scenery. "On land- ing," he wrote in his journal, " on the island, and ascending its eminence, which was nearly a ))orpondicular clitT, our attention was imme- diatcl)' called to a landscape almost as enchant- ingly beautiful as the most elegantly finished ]>]easure-grounds in Europe. There was an ex- tensive lav" covered with luxuriant grass and diversified with an abundance of flowers. To the northwestward was a coppice of pine-treos and shrubs of various sorts that seemed as if it had been planted for the sole ])urposo of pro- tecting from the northwest winds this delight- ful meadow, over wh'ch wore promiscuously scattered a few clumps of trees that would have puzzled the most ingenious designers of pleas- ure-grounds to have arranged more agreeably. While we stopped to contemplate these several beauties of nature in a prospect no less pleas- ing than unexpected, we gathered some goose- berries and roses in a state of considerable for- wardness." While the features of the scenery are still the same as wlion Vancouver wrote, the scene has so far changed that where there was silence is now tlio hum of driving machin- ery. Man has been here " wi' hie kittle o' jteam ;" and when wo passed, the lumber-mills of C. E. P. Wood and Co. were giving employ- ment to 300 hands, and turning out 70,000 feet of lumber per day. Port Discovery is one of the expectants for the big city, so we mark its position and keep it in mind. The eastern end of the Coast range runs out into a long spit termed Point Wilson. We round this, and come in sight of Port Townsend. " What flag is that ?" asks one. Mr. Seward was within hearing, and sharply answered: "That flug. Sir, is the cus- tom-house flag of the United States. This must be the port of entry." And he was right. Port Townsend is a city of two parts, differ- ing widely from each other. One part is on the sands, and the otheA>n tho bluff that overlooks them. We may regard those as Port Town- send the Ancient and Port Townsend the Mod- ern. Port Townsend the Ancient may ogafn be divided into the East and the West. The East contains the " rancheree" of the Duke of York and his vassals. Tho West includes the Custom - house, the Masonic Hall, the Good Templars' Hall, the hotel, several whisky sa- loons, and other places cf business. In Port Townsend the Modem are the Marine Hospi- tal, the school-house, the church, and neat resi- dences of the more prominent citizens. As we approached, the big cannon which they have lately secured vigorously blazed away, and 'he wharf was covered with the citizens, old and young, white and red. The boys called lustily for a speech from the old man. He did not see it at first; but, with a little coaxing, at lost mounted the rostrum — the deck of the steamer — and said something like this: "You have got a splendid country here. What you need is jiop- ulation. Now don't be foolish and send 'any from your gate. Take all you can get — Boston man and Irishman, white man and black man, and John Chinaman, if he will come. You have room for all. You can make something of them, wax vnqvBiA. 480 IIAUPEUS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. and they will help yoii to cut down tho forest, and onnble this to be- come a fcroat and proK- p6roii§ plneo. God hlusx you, my boys, and keep you all honest and loy- al!" Port Townsond hax hithertoenjoyed no envi- able notoriety for smug- gling and whisky drink- ing through the humor- QU* descriptions of Ross Browne, and T. VVin- throj). If they were here now they would And occasion to change thuir opinions. No bet- ter society con be found any whore than here in the Ultima Thule of Uncle Sam's dominion, and no more cntc'.pris- ing band of citizens. Wo saw amidst the throng on old friend of theirs formerly sketched in this Mugnzinc — the Duke of York— the chief of the Clalhim In- dians. The Duke appeared also to have mended his ways, and to have rouoimced "potlum." Not drunk, ho was out with tlio earliest to give "'f/lf^T,C^'- >f. OUINOOK WOUAN XSV OHILD. INDIAN UIULS AMI ('ASCII.' welcome to one of Uncle Sam's " Tyas Tayees," or big chiefs. Instead of having his feet dan- gling from under tho " |)ississy" or blankets, he- was rigged in veritable pants, and sported n Tyrolc.-c hat with a red feather. "Halo tenas Tayee" (no small chief is he), and ho lords it over his fishy vassals with despotic swny. No canoe can hero bo secured without a reference to the Duke of \ ork ond arrangement of terms with him. We pres- '—__ entilie^ortraitofhim and family in their lust stage of develop- ment. It is gratify- ing to know that his wives, Queen Victo- ria and Jenny Lind, 8till survive and are well. Queen Victoria does washing for the lieges, and is deem- ed honest and careful by her patrons. Jen- ny Lrnd, though long the court favorite, iti both drunken and lazy. Ilere, os elsewhere on this coast, we per- ceive tho Inst of the red man side by side with the first of the white men — the dy- ing race and the grow- ing race strangely in- termingled. At Vic- toria we saw the res- idence of the Govern- or and otticinls on one side of the harbor, and tiie " rancheree" of King Frisi and the dilapidated remnant of the Songhish tribe on tho other. As we look over tho side of //"p 'I /" ya» Tnycos," liis feet dan- hlnnkcts, he id sported n " Hnlo tenao id ho lords it ic swny. No It n reference [nent of terms rn. We j)re8- portrnitofhini mily in their ge of develop- It is gratify- know that his Queen Victo- 1 Jenny Lind, rvivc and are Jueen Victoria ashing for the and is deem- est and careful patrons. Jen- d, though long urt favorite, is drunken and V, 08 elsewhere 3 coast, we per- thc last of the an side by side ihe first of the men — the dy- cenndthegrow- ce strangely in- ngled. AtVic- we saw the res- 3 of the Govern- l officials on one of the harbor, le " rancheree" iig Frisi and the dated remnant ! Songhish tribe 3 other. As we aver the side of THE MEDITKRRANEAN OF THE PACIFir. 4H7 our vos«o! at I'ort Townscnd wo koo two Clallam girls in thoir Chinook cnnoo sitting at enso. Thus havo tho Duko of York and ituch ux ho sat at oano for centuries in their salmon-scented halls. In tho midst of good opportunities, in one of tho best fields of tho world, they have lived out their timo in idloness and sensuality, their in- dustries novor rising higher than skulking round the forest and shooting tho elk, or sleepily doz- ing in their canoos, and spoaring tho salmon as ho darted along ; thoir pleasures nover ranging beyond tho hideous " potlatch," when, with wild screams and savago joy, the tribal crow mounted tho roof of thoir "ranchoroo," and flung their long-storod blankets to maddened " tilicums" (companions) beneath. Thoir timo has como, and thoir portion is another's. Even no-.v they have lost the enthusiasm of tho savage, without gaining tho wisdom of tho whito man. Thoy aro letting their time-cherished customs drop as things of death. In this country of tho Flatheads, where for centuries tho Clallam belle has been rated according to tho taper of her "caput," we find comparatively few mothers thus preparing their offspring for social posi- tion. Occasionally we see a Clallam conserva- tive, some frowsy old crono from tho Chehnlis or the Querquelin, sitting with tho instruments of torture applied to tho hope of tho family. Down at Capo Flattery, where they hunt the seal and gather the dog-fish oil, they preserve this ancient feature of their race. Our sketch shows the means applied. Some of them boast that the chignon is only an attempt on tho part of other belles to copy their native graces. More than ono have wo scon with a piece of solid bark rolled up in their hair in imitation of the fashionable chignon. On tho whole, these dusky mothers take but little trouble with their offspring. The " tenas man" (small man), when born, is wrapped in a piece of old four-point blanket, covered over with tlio soft bark of the willow or dog-wood, laced up tightly in his cradle of wicker-work, and loft to take care of himself. Kick or sprawl he can not, and his bawling pleases him- self and hurts no one. Generally he is a con- tented little animal as ho is tossed aronnd in his basket, or swings from his polo or tho branch of a tree in the groat forest. Port Townsend is another of the aspirants for future greatness. Its claims are : 1. Easy access from the sea. 2. Tho possession of a commodious and well-sheltered harbor. 3. The ]froposal by the Federal Government to erect fortifications around on Port Marrow- stone, Port Wilson, Admiralty Head, and Port Partridge on Whidby Island. Here we received on board an addition to our party, and steamed further up tho sound between high sand -clay bluffs that rise on either side. Nino miles up we came to a city built on saw-dust found.ttions. Out bore we name every place a city from a log shanty and an old horse upward. This city is named Port Ludlow, At the lumber-mill there are ono THE "TIM AS HiUI." hundred hands employed, and they con tnm out 40,000 feet of lumber per day. After other nine miles we touched at another city — the fac-simile of the former, named Port Gam- ble. What a pity they did not keep the old Indian name Teekalet i Hero they havo from 300 to 400 hands employed, and can turn out 100,000 feet in twelve hours.* The "boys" had no cannon ; but they had loaded up a couple of anvils, and made them do duty in- stead. They also brought out their pet to show to " tho Governor" — said pet being a two- year-old elk which they had caught and tamed. The pet is already a lusty animal weighing 400 pounds, and it took four men to bring him down — two at his head and two at his heels. Near to the mills is the real Teekalet, a lodge of Indians who arc fost dying out. Indeed, all the race are fast dying out except those collect- ed on the reservations. After all the talk that has been made about the Indian jwlicy, it is the only humane policy with these hclplesn i.reatures. It may not save them, but it pro- tects them for a timo from ills with which they are ill-fitted to cope. For instance, there arc about 3000 Indians, representing twenty -five tribes, gathered on the Tulalip Reservations across the country, forty miles from this. There they are under the constraint of the Su- perintendent. Tho youths arc taught to be useful by resident carpenters, blacksmiths, etc. The girls are gathered into schools, and taught the arts of reading, writing, and arithmetic, as well as the common processes of the household. Some of them can even play the piano and the melodeon. Among them there labors Father Chironse, a missionary of the Roman Catholic • This mill, owned by Pope, Tnlbot, aud Co., lias recently been greatly enlarged. Thoy have a fleet of twenty-two vessels In constant service. IIAUl'EUS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. TIU " MKMltUHXtK UUl'tIK," 0> nKMEYKKV. Church, who for twenty yean has been their great "Sacra Tayee," and whose influence hag been powerful for good. Even there they are decreasing at tlio rate of ten per cent., while here they arc perishing speedily by disease and dr|inkennes8. It is nil very well to say that these scattered trilics, such as the Tockalet, preserve their ancient liberty. It is no blessing to them, and they arc a bane to the white set- tlers around. Better drive them off to the res- ervations. These sr|iinlid creatures have little of the spirit of the old braves. T'loy are sin- gularly dull and uninteresting. I'ew of their customs have any romance about them, and all their arts are of the rudest kind. Their high- est efforts are exhibited in their ranch - poles and grave-yards — the "Meinolooso," or dead- houses, as they call tlicin. We present a sketch of one near to this. Leaving Port Gamble, or 'I'eekniet, as we prefer to call it, wo continue a winding course for sixteen miles, and reach a beautiful sottlc- mcnt named I'ort Madison, in the forest around the mills of Meigs and Co. This is a model establishment. The men, instead of burrow- ing in mean shanties, with their squaws hanging around, appear to have settled down in decent homes. There are all the pleasing manifesta- tions of family life, and by the stringent regula- tion of the proprietors, not a drop of liquor can be sold in the place. Consequently nil the drunk and disorderlies soon clear out, and those who remain call it the mint, as they can save mon- ey. The ordinary wages are from $40 to $100 per month, with board and house rent, here and elsewhere on the sound. At Port Madi- son there are two hundred hands employed, and they can turn out 40,000 feet of lumber per day. "Lumbering on the sound" is the staple onipl'tyment of the floating pi)])iilution. There have dril'ied hither men of all kinds, from all parts. Some from the Khurcs of Maine and New DruUKwick, able to build a xliip and sail her; nndhnrdy wood- cliopj)erK from Cnnn- du and Nova Scotia generally make some ofthcmillK their rest- ing-place. The ma- jority, however,!nure- ly Keek in theiii the opportunity of re- cruiting for ot!toh to Seattle, the next stopping-plncc. The conversation sus- tained made the way seem short. Men from Washington and men of the West regaled each other with their "exi)erience»." Judge Hastings gave stories of early California days, THE MEDITEKRANKAN OF THE PACIFIC. 480 nnd the liiHt from I{(iiiii>, wliicli liu recently viHitL'il. We liuil U'coivi'd on hoard, at I'ori TownNcnd, J. (i. Swun, Ki*(|., long identified witii WiixliinKton Territory, und one of the bent Inforincd in reirurd to itM hiatory. For Hevernl yeiim lir Knidcd on the Cjiiurqiiclin River, near Shoalwiiter Huy, und tliuit deitcribud "«>un Fin«T KLKCTIOft. " We liiiil reiiclied llint point in the ).i«lo of tlio Territory wlitn wo were called upon to elect our olllcern for the Territory und the coun- ty. This wan lookei! ii|jon hy the bovH an ii fiircc (whnt did we want of lawn!' we w< ' a law unto oiirNelveH); ko ninoiii; other li! erg they elected John \V. Chump junlice of the peace, and Charlou W. Denter coiihIuIiK'. Now Chani|> wan a chantrlir to servo ax jiiHlicc — iiixty-llve yeurH of «j{''i '""i wiry, ami miiincii- lar, with an iron coiiHtitution that hud wilh- Htood the rough and tuinhio of a long hordcr life. lie wan fund of old rye, nnd wuh occa- niotinlly noiny and rough, thougli generally kindly and KcnHihle. The coiiHtulilo, or ' llig 'liarley,' waH a good-natured, luzy fellow, who : ' begun life oh a hnid)urnuin in Maine, had t'l u whipped on board a whaler, and like some oi J Rpar had been washed u]) into the bay with- oii' exactly kiu'wing when, where, or how. Clever and Imiidy, he yet preferred Ins case und LtMUBklNU IN WASUIMOTON TEBBITOBT— PBEPABIlia LOOI). 490 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. • a bottle of whisky to any thing else. We thought justice and constable would do very well. For- merly we had been very peaceable, any little ' trouble' that arose being easily settled with a fist fight. But now that we had a Squire, every one seemed anxious to bring him some busi- ness, nnd it was not long before the justice held his first court. "A man left in charge of a store was found to have stolen a small sum of money. Charley was ordered to proceed at once and arrest him. Charley started ; but, afraid of resistance, did it ill his own way. Walking in where the chap was sitting he asknd him for a drink. Bow- man said he had nothing. 'Well,' said Char- ley, ' old Cliamp has just got a demijohn of first-rato whisky, S'poso we walk down there and get some.' The other at once consented, and the pair went down to the Squire's. The boys began to collect, and at last the Squire, who had been out feeding his chickens and wetting his whistle, came in and took a seat. " ' Order in the court !' said he ; then, facing the prisoner, he addressed him thus : '"Well, this is a pretty how-d'ye-do; what have you been about, hoy ?' " ' What have I been about ?' asked Bow- man, with surprise ; ' nothing in particular that I know of. Where's your whisky. Squire ?' "'Where's my whisky?' said the Squire, now getting into a rage — ' whero's my whisky ? Don't you know you're 'rested ? And do you think to throw contempt on my court by asking for whisky ?' " ' I did not know I was 'rested ; pray, what is the charge ?' " 'Why, you big hiafer,' said Champ to the constable, ' didn't you show that paper to Bow- man ?' '"Yes, I did,' said Charley. " ' I never saw it,' said Bowman. "Champ then, expressing his disgust at Charley, ordered him to arrest Bowman forth- with, which he did, and produced the paper (which after all was simply a notice to quit, sup- plied by the sheriff' by way of a ruse). " Bowman read it, and remarked that it was not a warrant, and then inquired of what he was accused. " ' What are you 'cused of?' said the Squire ; 'why, you're 'cused of stealing money.' " ' I should like to know who accuses me, and who are the witnesses against me?' '"See here. Bowman,' says the Squire, 'I don't want any witnesses ; nnd as for who ac- cuses you, why, I accuse you, and every body on the beach accuses you, and you know you are guilty as well as I do. There is no use of wasting time over the matter. I am bound to sentence you, and my sentence is, that you leave the bay in twenty-four hours, or receive fifty lashes if you are here after that time.' " He started for Astoria and was seen no more. The ends of justice were fully satisfied. "Joe's case was the next. Ho was accused of setting a boat adrift. Ho protested that he was innocent. It Mas suggested that it might have been taken by Jake for a day's fishing, and better confine the prisoner till Jake re- turned. This was agreed to, but where were they to confine him ? Champ's hen-house was proposed, and into it Joe was thrust. Now Champ's hen-house was no slim afl^air, but n solid log-house as strong as a fort. In the aft- ernoon Jake and the boat returned, so they went to liberate Joe. But here another case was presented, for they found him very quietly engaged in sucking eggs. This new felony en- raged Champ more than the other. He was for flogging him immediately, but the boys put him on board a boat going out. Thus we rid ourselves of two thieves. " Mr. Swan's descrip- tion is true to the life of our Territorial begin- nings. Thus pleasantly the time passed, and we reach Seattle, sixty miles from Port Townsend. Seattle, the seat of a former tribe called by that name, has been a place of some importance since 1853. It acquired additional vitality through the discovery of coal a few yeara ago, and still more during the last few months by the popular belief that it is the place — the great terminus. The lands for miles around have been bought by speculators, divided into lots, and auctioned oft' in Victoria, through the Wil- lamette Valley, and even in San Francisco. Nine months ago there were not more than 500 people in it, now there are 1000. The in- habitants had scarcely got over the excitement a visit from the directors and ofi[icials of the brth Pacific Railway, accompanied by George Francis Train, who had been with them a few days before. The two combined had been evi- dently too much for them. Train had given a lecture. Subject — George Francis Train. He described his oiiilmnagc in tlie city of New Orleans, his pious education by a Puritan aunt, his labors in the house of his uncle, Enoch Train and Co., Boston ; his speculation in Mel- bourne, by which he cleared $140,000; his wife's speculation in Omaha, which gives her half of all the lots in that city ; and his palatial mansion in Rhode Island. Ho also spoke very freely of his election to the Presidency in 1 872, and gave an invitation to come and see him at the White House. I do not know Mhat else he can do, but assuredly he can lecture. The visit of the directors, much as the lieges were interested in the railway, was nothing to that of Train. His lecture was the theme of the day. They had just bade hiin good-by en masse, when tliey were called upon to welcome Seward. This they also did with a will. Hav- ing had one lecture, they were sure of another from Seward. The evening had come, and they pressed him hard to stay over. He would not do it, and got off" from the speech by prom- ising to shake hands all round. This was done in returning, nnd every man, woman, and child had been prepared for the ceremony. As the apparently endless circle swept past, his afifa- bility au't graccfidness to each were very no- THE MEDITERRANEAN OF THE PACIFIC. 491 hat Jt might ny's Ashing, ill Jake re- where were n -house was nist. Now affair, but n In the aft- icd, so they another case very quietly w felony en- er. He was the boys put Tims we rid an's descrip- itorial begin- sed, and we rt Townsend. called by that e importance ional vitality !w years ago, iw months by ce — the great around have led into lots, 3ugh the Wil- m Francisco. 3t more than WO. The in- he excitement officials of the ied by George ;h them o few had been evl- n had given a is Train. He I city of New Puritan aunt, uncle, Enoch ilation in Mel- |i 140,000; his lich gives her ind his palatial Iso spoke very dency in 1 872, ind gee him at low what else lecture. The lie lieges were uthing to that theme of the n good-by en on to welcome a will. Hav- ure of another ad tome, and er. He would eech by j)n)ni- This was done nan, and child lony. As the past, his affa- were vci v no- *l ticeable. lie told the writer afterward that ho always cal- culatied on doing this ut the rate of len in a minute. As it took liim nearly an hour to do Seattle, he must have seen uenriy the entire population. i iic most prominent build- ing in Serittlo is the Territorial University, which occupies a commanding site upon the hill. Its site here was secured by tlie politic management of a few citizens, and the subject is* rather a sore one to their bretliren in some of the otiier towns, especially in Olympia, the capital. The University- is a pretentious edifice, hut boasts at present of only one professor and a limited num- ber of pupils. Tiicy have dis- covered coal of good (lualitj about ten miles from the city, near Washington Lake. It is a tertiary lignite of the mio- cene age. Tiie analysis gives : carbon, 47.G3 ; bitumen, 50.22; ash, 2.15. It is part of the great tertiary bed which extends from Californiu nortii- Wiird through Oregon, Wash- ington Territory, to the south- ern end of British Coliimbiaund Vancouver Island, and wiiich has already been wrought at Monte Diabolo in Culifornia, Coose Bay in Oregon, and Bel- lingham Bay in Washington Territoiy. The seam, wliich pitchesatanangle of 45', crops out in several places around Washington Lake, and is about two feet :l)ick. A company has already made two tunnels into it — one 170 feet long, and tlie other about 50 feet. Cer- lainly, if Seattle were made the terminus of the pro|)osed rail- way. King County could sup- l)ly plenty of good coal and tVosli water ; but we iliall see. The liarbor is not quite so large as it seems, the iialf of it being a mud-rtat ; but tiiis could be built over, and be- yond there is good ancliorage. Seattle has the invariai)le saw- dust wharf and lumber-mill of the sound cities. They can tiini out at the mill 30,000 feet of lumber per day. At Free- port, on tiic opposite side of the harbor, there is a mill of Cfiual capacity. Seattle has considerably exercised the 492 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. TAOOMA," OB MOCHT BAINIEB, FBOM ODB CAMl' I'iO MILES AWAT land speculators in these parts. " Seattle lots" are offered for sale all the way to San Fran- cisco at prices varying from $50 to $500. From this to Olympia, at the head of the sound, all the eligible lands have been taken up. This has been occasioned in great part by the fact that the " Snowqualmie Pass" is comparatively near — about eighty miles from Seattle. The old military road from Wnlla Walla (such as it was) came over the Natchez Pass further north ; but it is now generally abandoned for that by the Sncwquahnic. To reach the sound from the east the railway must cross the Cascade range, which is from 6000 to 10,000 feet high, and very steep. Much depends upon the pass. Although there had long been an Indian trail over the Snowqualmie, yet it was not thought much of till recently. A few years ago an en- terprising band from Seattle Avcnt up and dis- covered that it was gentler in ascent, and the summit lower, than any of the passes previous- ly in use. More recent explorations have es- tablished the fact that it is only 3700 feet high ; and already the immigrant wagons — the prairie schooners — make their way through it in pref- erence to the Natchez, which is 6000 feet high. The "Yakima," the long, rich valley of the KlicKatats, leads up to it from Walla Walla, to which the line will probably come on the other side. This is also in favor of the Snowqualmie Pass being chosen ; for it is in the region around the Cascades, and not at the Rocky Mountains, that engineering dilHculties will be encountered. Great interest has thus been attached to the Snowqualmie, and the people of Seattle regard it as their hope and boast. There is an inter- esting waterfall 270 feet high on the river about sixty miles from town, and with great enthusi- asm they treat their friends with a trip to the " Snowquolmie Falls." The trip is worth stay- ing even a week to make. We left Seattle late in the evening. The Houud now presented the grandest of her scen- ery. Tlie forests were on fire, and the flames glimmered and danced on the hills around. The clear moonlight fell upon the waters and lent an air of witchery tp the picture. We had now turned the comer of the Olympic range, which rises up in bold outline behind us. An opening in the woods here reveals .Mount Rainier, ninety miles ofi' on our left. This is the queen of the Cascade range, the fair- est, stateliest, and purest of all its peaks. It has no rugged shoulders like Mount Baker, but rises up in a clean-cut sugar- loaf li^hapc to a height of 14,000 feet. In its si- knee and solitariness it speaks to the innermost depths of our nature. But, my reader, " If yon wonld see Rainier aright, Go view it by tlie witchtug mooulight.'* This was our good fortune, when all its trans- cendent loveliness was full disclosed. The impression created by its snowy gracefulness, its calm majesty, can never be effaced. We may wander to the farthest corner of the earth, but the image, the looi; of that mountain in the moonlight will not wear away. All eyes were spell-bound by its beauty until the woods in- ter\-ened and shut it out from sight. Now another and different object becomes the centre of attraction. Wc are called out from the cabin to view a Western city iu its infancy — the fledgeling of a summer, that is to rise and spread its wings with railway speed. It is well that the world should know the name of this future New York of the West. "Tu- c6m-ah" they call it now, though, before Gov- ernor Stevens and his "Memoloose" men came along, the Indians said Tac'-o-niah". The Tacomitcs argue in this way : " It is almost certain that the railway must cross the Cascade range by the Snowqualmie Pass — now if,'' and on this hang the fortunes of the Tnco- mites — "if the railway come through this pass, Tacoma is the nearest point on the sea. From the pass to the water's edge there is much level prairie land ; the grades would be easy on either side ; the country is open, fertile, and full of coal ; the lino will be twelve inilcs short- er than the Seattle." The difficulty of ships going further up the sound is very much in- creased by the "Narrows" immediately be- yond. The tides rush very rapidly through these, and impede the navigation. The har- bor is spacious, and the anchorage, though deep, is good. The land is taken up all around. Ta- coma on paper boasts of streets, and squares, and whar\-e8, yet one sees merely a clearing in the forest — a few piles of lumber, one hotel, one store, two whisky saloons, and bo\ ;ral un- THE MEDITERRANEAN OF THE PACIFIC. 49a finished buildings. Tho hotel has been estab- lished by a Cariboo miner, M. N. Steele, one of the first that "struck it rich." He lost his luclc there, but believes that here ibrtune will smile upon him, and that the " Steele Claim" in Tacomah will rival the old "Steele Claim" 3f Cariboo. Another enthusiast has estab- lished a sa'Ar-mill, which is driving away, and turning out plenty of lumber for tho buildings that are to be. After midnight we arrive at Steilacocm and cast anchor. The good folks have evidently given up hope of our arrival, and have all re- tired. Fort Stcilacoom may be termed the modem ancient among the settlements. It formerly enjuyed sumo importance, being near to the fort of the Hudson Bay Company at Kisqually, and finally as a military post of the United States. The Hudson Bay fort at Nis- qually, six miles from the city, was built by Dr. Johnil in 1846, and is still represented by a chief-trader and his staff — some old Scotch- men, a retinue of half-breeds, and an ex- tensive vassalage of "Siwashes." It is an in- closure 240 feet square, surmounted by the or- dinary bastions at the four corners, and boasts of tiiree guns, a blacksmith's shop, a store, etc. The troops were removed from this post in 186C, and taken to Sitka, so the inhabitants arc left to dream of future prosperity through the coming railway. Lots are going up. We get away in the morning before the lieges are aroused. As we near a spot half-way be- tween Steilacoom and Olympia, we hear a voice saying, "There it is — that's tho place." " What nlacc?" we ask. ^^ The place — New Jerusalem — the site of the big city." Wo gaze, but we can discern nothing but wood and water. " That's it," reiterate several who appear particularly interested, and forthwith the captain of the sur- veying vessel takes out of his pocket the neat- ly engrossed plan of a large city, with wharves, squares, and streets marked on it — " New Jeru- salem" being printed in luminous letters over it. And this will be the place, if eloquence and interest can make it. " New Jerusalem" is the nest-egg laid by several of the govern- ment officials and other knowing ones. They will have it here if they can. The view of New Jerusalem is not, however, very interesting at present, except on the map. Not even a hunt- er's whauty breaks its monotony. Before breakfast we approach Olyn.pio. The name may seem ambitious, but it is in no way inappropriate. Nestlirg among the hills, it looks out upon the snowy Olympus— the high- est and most beautiful peak of the Olympic range. Tho harbor is peculiar. The tidas rise and full twenty feet ; so that every day an extensive mud-flat is disclosed. While at cer- tain periods some of the streets are under wa- ter, at others ocean steamers can not approach within four miles of the city. Still, the Olym- pians are colmly confident, and look with con- tempt on the chrms of the other bantling cities to rival it. Thev think in this wise: "Olvm- pia fuit," ergo "Olympia fuerit." It haa been the capital, the seat of government ; it is the head of navigation ; it is nearest to Portland, to or from which there must be a branch ; it is the readies;, opening to the sea; it has an extens- ive agricultural country behind it; therefore, "Floreat Olympia." These mud-flats where the Klootchmen gather clams shall yet be built up into spacious streets; these quiet waters in which the Clallam darts his fish-spear shall yet bo covered with floats from " Cathay, Cipango, and tho Indies." If the directors can be won by beauty, they will plant here the mighty city. Already they have made tho most of iheir site. The streets are delightfully shaded by rows of poplar and maple, and the trim dwellings look cut from teeming orchards. Old Horace speaks about cutting off a pleasant half of the day in a shady place. Commend me to Olympia for this operation. Sitting 'n front of the "Taco- mah," under the cooliig shade of the trees, with a sherry-cobbler in iiur^d, looking out upon tho bay between tho rising hills, one is "king o'er a' the ills o' life." Its attractions inive se- cured better society than can be found in towns of its size any where. Houses are at a premium, and sleeping-room scarcely to bo had. Bless- ings on thee, gem of the West ! When wo get old we shall seek in thee a resting-place! If Athens had its Mnrs' Hill, Olympia has its equal in tho shoulder that stretches two miles beyond, overlooking the extension of the bay, and filled with all goodly groves, and sheltering shady pools, where the silvery salmon grnh the flies on the snmmcr day. At the end of this shoulder the lively Tumwater leaps in with a sort of hop, skip, and jump, forming a series of three beautiful waterfalls, as a final effort be- fore losing itself forever in the sea. "A speech— a speech!" cries the deputation of citizens — said deputation backed by the citi- zens themselves, "To Tumwater!" roars Sew- ard. A compromise was made : "Tumwater Falls first, a speech after." We made for the falls. No great roaring, brawling avalanche of waters are these. They are comely, pictur- esque, unique. From pool to pool they flow, their spray dancing on the sentinel pines around. The road passes down by a bridge beneath them, from which you can look up and see them all at once above you. But no time for poetry now ; lunch and the fpcech are before us. The lunch was like o'iier lunches — rather better; the speech an co&y, kindly flow of good feeling, as from a father speaking to his children ; and then the shaking of hands— hard hands and soft ones, hard ones preponderating. When evening comes wo return to the steam- er, and start back. As morning breaks we arc again at Port Townsend. Wc now sail north- ward, and all at once pass Muckleteo — also a candidate for future g'-eatness — and next Whid- by Island, another candidate. The harbor on the inside of the island has been strongly rec- ommended in former surveys niade by Gener- al M'Clellan and Governor Stevens for iho 494 HARPERS XEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. i srKKcr vs or.Tjiri&, wasuimqton tebritoby. North Pacific Railway. It is separated from the m.'in land — but only by the Swinomish Slough, a broad marshy tract, which settlers are now dyking and draining, and taming into fertile land — and by a narrow channel, which can be easily bridged. The island, fifty miles in length, i$ fertile, and, in great part, cultivated by a hardy, happy race of Good Templars, who deserve all the good fortune that may come to them. Farther on we pass Fidalgo Island, baring similar claims. It is right in the teeth of vessels com- ing up the strait. Away on our right is Bel- lingham Bay, anothc ' candidate, and the List. The bay is a semiciinle, six mil(» in length. Here there is a large coal-mine, skillfully work- ed, and already a small railway from the mine to the harbor. According to the Superintend ent, and to others also, this railway is the ex- treme end of "Tiie Great Northern." BcUing- liam Bay is the Liverpool of the West, and its proprietors the luckiest men of the continent. Before making up among the numerous islands, and over the line to the British possessions, let us settle the question of the city's site. We have had with us Von Smythe, one of the great engineers of tlie coast ; at each stopping-place we have received on board interested advocates of the several sites ; so surely we will be able to make it out. Port Discovery, Port Townsend, Seattle, Tacoma, Steilacoom, New Jerpsalem, Olympia, Muckleteo, Whidby Inland, Fidalgo Island, Bellingham Bay — which shall it be ? In scanning the line of tha proposed ronto., ve are sure of several points far eastward. It will cross the Rocky Mountains at Cadott's Pass, and run thence to Pend-O-Reille. By i'ecent legislation in Congress, it is brought to a point on the Columbia River, where it will connect with the line of river and railway com- munication already established by the Oregon Steamshin Comp:iny. But this can be only a temporary, not the final termination. The route by Portland is circuitous, and, what is of more importance, no harbor can be found on that part of the coast unattended by sericus ob- stacles to navigation. The mouth of the Co- lumbia is barred by dreadful breakers. Shoal- water Bay and Gray's Harbor can not be entered by vessels of ordinary tonnage. It is therefore a necessity that the line of railway be com- pleted to some point on the Puget Sound, where many desirable sites and harbors are presented, combining the varied advantages of good anch- orage and shelter, easy access and defense, and plenty of wood, coal, and water. Where all are so good, it may be difficult to moke the best possible selection. All the places within Port Wilson — Port Townsend, Seattle, Taco- ma, Steilacoom, New Jerusalem, and Olym- pia — will be well defended by the proposed for- tifications around tlu . point. Of these. Port Townsend and Seattle have the best anchorage — from fifteen to twenty fathoms. From the fact that there must be a branch to Portland, Olympia, at the head of this inland sea, would appear to be tlio nearest and most convenient cfepot ; but this advantage is balanced by the consideration that it is beyond the " Na;-rows," which adds to the difficulty and expense of bringing vessels to its harbor. Seattle, Taco- ma, and Port Townsend have an advantage in this respect. Tf wo look at the harbors beyond Port Wilson, wc see, that while Wiiidby Isl- and, Fidalgo Island, and Bellingham Bay can not be 80 thoroughly defended, they arc of THE MEDITERRANEAN OF THE PACIFIC. 495 I'here it will •ivilway cora- the Oregon an be only a ation. The id, what is of be found on by sericus ob- h of the Co- lers. Shoal- lot be entered [t is therefore way be corn- Sound, where ire ])resented, of good aneh- and defense, ater. Where I to make the places within Seattle, Taco- I, and Olym- proposed for- )f these, Port lest anchorage s. From the 1 to Portland, md sea, would ost convenient ihinced by the le "Na-.TOws," id expense of Seattle, Taco- i advantage in larbors beyond 3 Whidby 1=1- gham Bay can I, thev are of easier access from the sea. This whole matter — the selection of the city's site and railway depot — depends really upon the pass chosen through the Cascade range. In these northern parts the passage through the Rocky Mount- ains is comparatively easy to that through the range nearer tlie coast. This range, as stated, rises steeply to from 6000 to 10,000 feet, and is a dividing wall. It seems decided that tho route will be through Cadott's Pass, in the Rocky Mountains, near the Kostanie country, close to the 49th parallel. But whither after that ? This depends upon the pass up the Cas- cades deemed most practicable. Now there are five to choose from : 1. The Cowlitz Pass, supposed to bo 5000 feet high*. 2. The «now- lualmie Pass, known to be 3700 feet high. 3. The Natchez Pass, 5000 feet high. 4. Cady's Pass, 5000 feet high, 5. The Skatchet Pass, near Mount Baker, supposed to be 3000 feet high. Now, if the railway be brought direct from tho Kosta^e, through the Spokane coun- try, and over the Skatchet Pass (both deemed practicable, though not thoroughly explored and surveyed), then assuredly it must termin- ate at or near Bellingham Bay ; and if broi.ght through the Snowqualmie Pass (the best so far as surely ascertained), Tacoma is the nearest point on the sound, distant about sixty -five miles — Seattle, about seventy-five miles, being next. And if it be detennined to put the main line to Olympia, in order to let the branch to Port- land strike off there, then in course of time an extension will be made up the west side of the sound along Hood's Canal to Port Townsend or Port Discovery. This, my reader, is all that is known about either the passes or ports, and the probabili- ties soon to be realities, on this Mediterranean of the Pacific. And with this we dismiss a question that is exercising nil the inhabitants of the Territory, and all the land speculators on the coast. Pity to spoil such a summer day with so much that savors of dollars and cents. We leave the railway and the city to come along when and where they like best^ and plunge in amidst tho numerous islands before us on our way to Nunaimo, where the good ship Active has taken in coal, and is waiting for Scwaru and his party en route for Alaska. We are threading our way through the Western Cyclades — islands every where, and yonder San Juan itself. What is the San Juan question? This, my reader, is a red flag, which, with another called "the Alabama claims," is shaken occasionally in the face of John Bull to rouse his cholcr. Serious enough, for more than once it has been nearly the occasion of war between two great countries. In 1859, General Harney, on the part of the United States, planted on the island Captain George Pickett and a ci;mpany of in- fantry. Governor Douglas, who resided in Vic- toria, and represented her Britannic Majesty, dispatched tho Satellite and the Triiune, with instructions to drive them from the island. The Americans in British Cokmbiu threatened to organize as volunteers for the assistance of Captain Pickett, ond to hoist the Stars and Stripes over the town of Victoria. Then there would have been war to the knife. Stronge to say, just aa the Tribune had left the harbor of Esquimaux, the commander, Cnptoin Hornby, discovered in tho Strait of Fuca the flag of Admiral Baynes, arriving to command the Brit- ish fleet in the Pacific. He therefore waited for the instructions of his 8ui)erior officer. The Admiral, seeing that the policy of Governor Douglas would bring about a collision which might result in war, at once countermanded the orders, stating that it was a question to be set- tled by the home governments. After all — would the reader believe it ? — the " San Juan Difficulty," as it is gracefully term- ed in these parts, has arisen from the mere scrape of a pen. Great Britain claimed Ore- gon north of the Columbia River; the United States claimed all south of latitude 54'" 40'. In 184G that grand compromise called the Ashbur- ton Treaty accepted the 49th parallel as the boundary line. But this line, if drawn across, would have cut off" the tail end of Vancouver Island. It was therefore stated in the treaty that, after leaving the main land, it shall go southward, through the viiddle of the channel, to the Strait of Fuca. The treaty appears to have been made under the erroneous impression that there was only one channel between the nuiin land and Vancouver Island. At the time, the liosario Strait was the best known, and the most commonly used ; the Haro Strait has since been surveyed, and is the most direct and best channel. Now the island, or rather the isl- ands, for there are thirty of them, lie between these two straits ; so, i/ the h'ne passing through the middle of the channel means the Rosnrio Strait, they belong to Britain ; but if through the Haro Strait, they belong to the United States. 2'ki channel? Are we to understand the channel best known in 1845-4G, while they were dis- cussing terms, or the main channel, as now as- certained by survey ? The mere insertion of the four letters HARO would have prevented the "difficulty." More has been made of the question than it really deserves. San Junn, Orcas, and Lopez islands (each about ten miles long, and from one to three miles wide) are fer- tile ; but, where land is so plentiful, we need not take their gain or loss ns a matter of life and death ; and we beg veiy resjiectfully to set- tle the whole difficulty, and submit the follow- ing proposal to all concerned : During the sur- vey in 1858 a middle channel was discovered, called the Douglas Channel. If it were taken as the boundary, San Juan and a few islands would fall to the English ; Orcas, Lopez, and all the others to the United States. San Juan is of more importance to the English than to the United States ; for, though it does not com- mand the harbor of Victoria, as was ignorantly stated by the British Foreign Secretary, yet it ^fr 496 HARPEirS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. I ^ pi i 1 NANAIHO, VANOODTKB IBLAND. is distant only six miles from Vancou- ' ver Island, and com- mands tlie strait hy wliicli ships would pass from Victoria into British Columbia. At pres- ent the Americans have a garrison at one end, and the English at the other. Tlicre thoy arc, ready to blow each other off at a signal from their chiefs, yet enjoying the most friendly in- tercourse — assisting each other to hunt the deer and fish the salmon. "San Juan in sight. Sir," says the pilot, touching his cap to Mr. Seward ; " shall I tnke the Haro or the Kosario channel ?" " Take the English channel — I know all ahout our own." So we enter the Rosario Strait. Anxious to get his (pinion about the matter, I eay, " What should be done with the San Juan question ?" " Nothing should be done with it, Sir. Let it stand l)y. Our men will settle up the place, and the question will settle itself." "Cute old man !" I observe ; and adjourn to the pilot-box to see how the pilot — a great brawny Kentnckian — would dispose of it. " How would you settle the San Juan question ?" " That there island is onrs — no doubt about it, Sir; and if the Britishers won't keep to the bound- ary line that they agreed on I would just begin where we left off, and bring up the old one. ' Fifty-four forty, or fight !' Them's my terms." The time passed pleasantly while we made our way up through scenery which rivals that of the Hudson River for beauty. The islands come so quickly after each other, and so close to each other, that it seems as if we were sail- ing on some magnificent inland river. Galiano, in particular, impressed ns. It rises like a high perpendicular wall, 280 feet high, its basaltic columns cut and carved in every variety of form. At 4 o'clock we reach Nanainio, and find the Actim in waiting. This place has ac- quired some in^>ortance as the head-quarters of the Vancouver'Coal Company. It is a village of five hundred inhabitants, including seventy or eighty miners. Last year the Company ex- ported 50,000 tons, and declared a dividend of fifteen per cent. It is used oil over the coast for steaming and domestic purposes. An an- alysis gives: carbon, C3.93; hydrogen, 5.32; nitrogen, 1.02; sulphur, 2.20; oxj-gen, 8.70; ash, I.'). 83. It was discovered in early days, by an old Indian, who has since budded into wonderful respectability, and been made a "Tayee," or big chief of his tribe. It was wrought for many years by the Hudson Bay Company, who transferred it, ten years ago, to the present Company. We took a stroll round the place, visited the mine, the school for In- dians, and gathered a few fossils, which are very plentiful around. In the preceding port of our journey wo had seen the native tribes in their hovels near to the abodes of the white man. Although wo THE MEDITERRANEAN OF THE PACIFIC. 407 -r*r. -.%.{?- -" "i^ time jjassed > ly while we U ir way up tliroiigh which rivals that Hudson River for The islands come •, and so close to s if we were sail- id river. Galiano, It rises like a high high, itH basaltic every variety of ch Nanainio, and riiis place has ac- ( head-quarters of y. It is a village including seventy the Company ex- red a dividend of all over the coast iirposes. An an- hydrogen, 5.32; • ; oxygen, 8.70; Jd in early days, ince budded into 1 been made a s tribe. It was the Hudson Bay ten years ago, to )ok a stroll round le school for In- sssils, which are r journey we had r hovels near to . Although wo INDIAN SOUOOL AT N.\JIAIMO. had heard of the reservations, and the schools in more inland places, we had not seen the In- dian under the guiding influence of the Saxon until we reached Nanaimo. The tribe is only a ragged fragment of the Cowichans, destined to fade away like all their fellows; but the camp is preserved in excellent order. Every man has his post and something to do. At this place we saw, over the camp of the chief, the enormous roof-trees noticed on the west coast by Vancouver with much surprise. We can not understand how they managed to hoist these huge spars into their places. Two of the largest pines are felled for the uprights, and the roof-tree is stretched on tltem. The chiefs camp is also distinguished bv* the carved pole in front. This is sometiiflf)N' nearly 150 feet high, and marked with many a strange device. The entrance to the " rancheree'' is usually an elliptic circfe l^rned or cut" in the ''>wer end of the pole. In the sketch given of the camp of the Capo Midge Indians — the tribe next to the Nanaimoes — these roof-trees and poles are conspicuous. After an afternoon thus spent, wo returned on board the ]Vilson G. Hunt for our lust dinner in her spacious saloon. Our San Francisco friends were to return from this point, so Mr. Seward determined to make an occasion of the dinne; Tioveling in the West exhilarates the spirlOB and sharpens the appetite, so we were thoroughfy prepared. There were dispensed soups made of the clams from the shores of the. Territory, where they can be raked out nt any season. Vol. XLI.— No. 844.-32 and of oysters from Olympia, where they can be shoveled out like potatoes from a heap ; salmon, clear, bright, sparkling, which Von Smythe had engineered from their briny homes on the journey ; mutton — the mutton of Van- couver Island, richest and best of all we know ; venison from Juan, almost worth fighting for ; peaches, luscious and fresh, from California the golden, and Champagne all the woy from Au- burn, the home of our gallant leader. The company, now scattered, will be ever worth re- membering. The old Governor at the head; Frederick Seward at the foot, flunked by Judge Hastings, a pioneer and millionaire of Cali- fornia ; Dr. Franklin, one of her Majesty's of- ficers, who had fallen into the rank at Salt Lake ; Consul Francis, the representative of his Majesty Undo Sam in these i)arts ; Dodge, Mayor of Sitka, who had come down to escort his chief to the field ; Fitz, of Auburn, a friend of sixty years' standing ; Von Tinythe, of San Francisco ; some officers of the Federal array; several ladies, blooming and beautiful ; and the writer. What a " good time" we had away in this remote harbor ! " The Queen ! " said the Governor, ' ' in whose dominions we now are. Of all the queens I know, Isabella of Sj—in, Emma of Sandwich slands, or her of Madagascar, the noblest and best !" •'The President, and his representative Con- l Fransis." rs followed; the "Star-spangled Ban- lOt omitted ; and each gave some an- k:. 498 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. INIIIAN OAMl* AT OAI'K .MIDUK, VANOOUVEK ISLAND. ecdote of former life. The Governor's was called for. "I remember in old times, when a Univers- alist preacher first came to Auburn, there was some commotion among the evangelicals. The ministers met, and agreed to preach strongly on the subject on the following Sunday. The Presbyterian, being minister of a leading de- nomination, prepared himself accordingly. * My friends,' said he, 'one has entered our midst with heresy. An enemy is scattering tares, by teaching that all will be saved. But, my friends, we of this congregation hojye for better things.^ So," continued the Governor, "we have seen that magnificent sheet of water, the Fuget Sound, we have seen the little clearings in the great forest, and I think this must be the senti- ment formed by all wo have seen and heard ; We hope for better things. We 1 el the shadow of the great future that is comii;).; along to our people out here." Vale! Vale! old chief. May you live to see it! The time came for parting; and the Governor, when we last saw him, wrapped in a huge camel's-hair robe, fur gloves reaching to the elbow, surmounted by a shaggy bear-skin cap, from under which peeped and glowed an enormous Havana, was stretched at his ease on the stem of the Active — On tub way to Alaska. A SUNSET MEMORY. Onoe, as fell the shades or evening, At the close of the long day, Sat we, in the lengthening shadows, In the old lime, far away — Bat we, till the stars came gleaming Through the twilight soft and gray. We had watched the golden sunset Fading in the crimson west, While upon the glowing hill-tops Clouds of amber seemed to rest. Till the twilight closed around '.bem. In her hazy mantle dressed. Then I listened to the story That his lips so fondly told ; Words of passionate devotion, Words of love that ne'er grow cold • Filling all my heart with lightness, Threading all my life with gold. Always, when the sunset glory Trails above the western hills, AH the music of that etury Through my inmost being thrills — Tunes my sad lieart 'o rejoicing, And with peace n.. spirit fills. Since I first Love's nectar tasted Years have swept to Time's abyss- All Life's choicest hopes been wasted; But my visions now of bliss In that other Life are founded Ou the one glad hour in this. Years may roll and tempests gather, Storms may cloud youth's azure sky, Brightest locks may blanch to silver, Frosts of Time may dim the eye. But a pure heart's first devotion Always lives— it can not die. n K^ ■.^■.'.* "\' K<* i((«t ■i.1i f^i J'tti.'*^ k..iiVv t-1 — ^- — .-■ :S^-i!::i:-