///// //f ly/nt/d/'j ^i^fi'?>i/f//»7f9f/'j. 
 
 '■:'. 
 
<v 
 
 i'^iL 
 
 Journal of a Holiday 
 
 SI'EST IN 
 
 CANADA 
 
 AND IMi; 
 
 UNITED STATES 
 
 During the Autumn of 
 1898. 
 
 BANFF— BOW VALLEY. 
 
 • • • • • 
 
 * . • I 
 
A2 
 
JOURNAL of a HOLIDAY. 
 
 .— -♦'^"SS^^ »— — * 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 ©* X iii\ rcjuru tVoiii a vfrv c'iiji)v;il)Ir 
 ^, liulid.'iv spent on the Atlantic and 
 
 Ix'Vond it diiriii-;' tlic iiast autnnni, 
 I liuvc licen ur<;-('<l liv many tVi(n<ls to ]>ut 
 the iH'ford til' my journey and experieiiees 
 in writin.ii'. an<l, at tlieii- rii|Uest. I now 
 eiideavenr to do so IVom slii;'lit notes taken 
 ]>y tlie way. My trip was luieventt'nl, so 
 I'ar as excitement went, either l)y land or 
 sea: and, while to myself the record and 
 remembrance are pleasing,', I <h'nht very 
 much if anyone readinj^- tliese hnes will 
 be ecjually interested. 
 
 Everyone on the other side who s[t(d<(! 
 of it said that I had come out at the very 
 l)eKt season of the year, and that 1 was 
 likidy to have fnie weather. This pi-oved 
 tr) be the case, for taken as a wlmle I ha<l 
 not much rain, and the weather, Avitli the 
 excejition of a day or two. was temperate 
 — neither hot nor cold. besides this, I 
 was free iVom the attention of any of 
 those "l)eastsof pri'y"' which annoy and 
 worry man. 
 
 I have threat reason to be thankful to a 
 kind over-ruliiii:,' Providence ^vho brought 
 me scatliless and Avithout misha|t to the 
 end of a loni;' and interesting journey in 
 comfort and safetx'. 
 
T would dcsirt' also to place on record 
 iiiv seiiHc of indel)tudiie.ss to tiie niaiiv 
 kiiul tVieiids, old as well as casual, \vh(»iii I 
 met f)M my wav, esneciallv to the friends 
 ill Montreal, who, (»n hoth of niy visits to 
 them, were assiduous in planning and 
 lu'l[»in^' to carry out schemes for my 
 pleasun; and enjoynu'ut. 
 
 For these kindnesses I am greatly their 
 dehtor, aw I told them personally. 
 
 It will be ()l)Herved that in these not<'S I 
 use the editorial IIV. It must not he 
 inferred from this that I had any 
 travelling' eomjtanions, as most of the way 
 I travelled alone in one sense: hut in ease 
 it mi^'ht he supposed that I hired steamer 
 or train for my exclusive use, 1 write in 
 the iirst person plural. 
 
 One mi,i;ht ima.^ine that I ouj^ht to have 
 imbibed some of the self-importance and 
 fi^'o-aheadness of the pt'ople amoni^' whom 
 I spent the latter part of my time on the 
 American continent, but 1 doubt 1 am too 
 old to learn, and I am afraid if 1 had 
 imltibed these, my old friends at home 
 Would n(jt be for reeo,n'ni/in,i;' me. 
 
 When one travels abroad he sees many 
 new and stranj^e things, some wise and 
 some otherwise, and everything one sees 
 is not worth copying. 
 
 J. C. 
 Bkaksidk. 
 
 roM,<)K8IIIKI,l»S, 
 
 Xma8, 18l».\ 
 
DIARY. 
 
 -*-^r>»sDj 
 
 Ij^AVIXd an-!iii,i!;((l with the Directors of 
 *((I^ our (Joini);iMy to have u loii^- lioli(l;iy 
 tliis yc!U-, tliiiii;s were so planned in 
 tlie oiliee that itave was ,i;-rante(l tor tln'ee 
 months, and on lOth August we started 
 with "/'Oil roi/diif" iVoin all. botli enii)Iovers 
 
 t t I ». 
 
 and sul»ordinates. 
 
 On the afternoon of the date named 
 you miii'ht have seen the writer at the 
 Central Station surrouinh-d l)y a ^'roup of 
 friends seeing' him olf. It is said, " TIk' 
 occasion l)rin,i;s forth tlie man" (and. no 
 doubt, the woman as well), and we are 
 ahnost sure that if we liad not been 
 outward-hound at that time and place 
 the same ^roup would not have been 
 collected to^'cther. The ••connection" 
 was nearly all there, and the train bore us 
 away accompanied by hearty wishes for a 
 safe jounii'y, and a })leasant voyage across 
 the ocean. 
 
 Liverpool was duly readied after a 
 j^'ood run U[), and. as the steamer was 
 not to sail before the following;' day, 
 opportunity was taken to make calls on a 
 few friends. 
 
 On Thursday, the 1 1th, we took a lam u\) 
 and down the elevated railway, and made 
 more calls, and four o'clock found us upon 
 the deck of the j^'ood ship "Dominion," 
 What bustle and excitemeut— confusion 
 
(i 
 
 worse (•oiifuuiHlcd : At Icii-tll, itl.cllt live 
 
 tlic wliist],. is l)l()Mi)— tlio l.iiiil.' is 
 s(,uii(1(m1~i1„- n.pcH ;(iv thrown nlY, ;u,d 
 w<' start on a Ix-aiitilul artcnxxm amidst 
 tlio .i:,..()<l-l»yes ami I'.irowdls cxoliaii^vd 
 l)otMM'(ii tli(»sc ,.ii thr stvaijKT ami tlic 
 friends sccin-- tli.m dl)'. 
 
 One cduld aliudst ima-iii(. tliev heard 
 llic rdVain (.(" the t-Id si.iii;' — 
 
 •• '1 111 MiH liiir V \vci^'|i(<<i, 
 !■ arc Well — rcinciiilK'r inc." 
 
 And what a conniKitioii — cvcrv'mc Idokinu- 
 altei' his heh.ii-'iii--s, ;iiid (.|i(iiiirin,u- fur 
 the ]ilace where li.' is to |)ass to-ni-lit and 
 sevei'.d nther ui-lits. And now we are 
 lairlv otr. and the lii-sf eall is to be Qucdx'e. 
 
 U t' ha<l })roniised to write lionie fVon) 
 <,>neenstown. lait as we (hd m.t call 
 there, and there is neither ])ost-()f}ice nor 
 t<'lo<>Tai)h eoniieetion on l.oard, are 
 <'oni|ieIh'd to (h'saj)point. 
 
 'I'lu' hoautil'id weatht^r at tlie start did 
 Hot eontinne h»ni;', am] on retirin,^• at 
 I<'..")() there Were si--ns of;, ehaniic 
 
 Friday. 12th August— s.S. "DOMINION." 
 Tlie nioi'nin- op.MU'd dull, and we h.st 
 ^i.i^'ht of land ahont 1().;K>. " FavoAvell to 
 Old Ireland." 
 
 It tln'ii e(.inmenced to rain. an<l it rained 
 some liour.s. Tlieiv was also more .sea, 
 and a little wind on the heam. ^Ve ha<l 
 «>nr (or(>.s;dls np. and the ves.sel pitched a 
 little. Now come« the time for the nuil 
 
(A' iner, jiiid a gv.od many of the pa.ssf^ji^vd., 
 arc ol.liovd t,, knock \\m\vY. 
 liUii to noon to-day, 252 miles. 
 
 Saturday, I3th August— s.S. "DOMINION." 
 'i'lic morning' opened line, aiid wc had a 
 «tron^- liead wind all day, Some exeite- 
 mont cansed l.y the pas.sin- of one or two 
 vessels in the distaiuv. Head Aviiid |<,.pt 
 uj) till al.out midiiiohf, ^vhen it J4)pcared 
 to ehan-e. Vessel i)itched a good deal, 
 l>nt never a roll, 
 
 Knn to noon to-day, 307 miles. 
 
 Sunday, I4th August— s.S. "DOMINION." 
 M(»rniii,o- opened dull and bleak. Wind 
 N.-W . Sea choppy. Steamer Ixhavcd 
 Avell. In the forenoon we had service in 
 the saloon, Dr, Knox, Birkenhead, read 
 the lesson, and Dr. I'otts, Toronto, preached 
 from Proverbs 8, 17. 
 
 In the afternoon the weather was (kill, 
 and somewhat uncomfortable. 
 Run to noon to (biy. 277 iniles, 
 
 Monday, ISth August— s.S "DOMINION." 
 Lovely mornino-. Wind ,S,-W,, but no 
 sun, Had<>.,,„(l,iio.]if,,^i(^,^,p^^^3„^,^^j-^^.^^j^l 
 
 ,i;ot up refreshe(b 'I'here is now no motion 
 ot steamei', A ,i;()od many of the sicdc have 
 retun:ed to their places, and people arc, 
 on the whole, looking more cheerful, 
 
 A shout of "Whale on the starboard" 
 created some interest, lait one had to 
 beheve a good deal— what was seen was 
 
11 small .spout, and, a« it is said - Where 
 tlicre is sinoko there is sure to ho fire," we 
 had to iniag-iiie we saw the whale below 
 the spout. 
 
 It rained to-day between tw(. and three 
 o'<doek, and at 4.1.") we ,o(,t into a to.ir, 
 Avhieh had a (hiDipl/Kn'lW'Qt, and the horn 
 was Mowing- till T.oO, when the fo- lilted. 
 We had a most magnificent siniset at 7.4'). 
 FiVervone forward to have a look at it. 
 
 Hun to noon to-day, 317 nnles. 
 
 Tuesday, I6th August— s.S. "DOMINION.'' 
 There had been some t'og during the 
 night, but the morning is lovely. Nothing' 
 of interest pjissing— - Water, water everv- 
 where." 
 
 To-(hiy we sail over a summer ssea, and 
 we have often i;.\perieneed more diseomfort 
 crossing from ('raigendoran to Kilcreggan. 
 A few of the young ]»eop]e had races and 
 games on deck, and cv^Tything was couleni' 
 </(' nn^e. Music in the saloon in the evenino-. 
 Run to noon to-day, 330 miles. 
 
 Wednesday, 17th August— s.S. "DOMINION." 
 Hull morning. l^ietweeii eight and 
 
 twelve^ l)assed a nuudier of icebergs 
 
 beautiful objects of white and sea-green 
 crystals, and only requiring the sun, which 
 was l)ehind clouds, to end)el]ish them. 
 They Avere some distance off, and we 
 eoidd not quite agree as to how far aAvay 
 thev were. 
 
9 
 
 Af 4.30 to-day had the first sio-ht of 
 liiiul— NeAvfouiidlaiid— oil oiir left, and at 
 live passed Helh' Isle. Here we encountered 
 a i(),o: Avliieli histed al.out an hour, and 
 about seven we entered tlie straits of tiie 
 
 same iiaim 
 
 To-flay there M-ere ,i;'aiiies — erieket, 
 shiifHelioard, cte.— on the deeicaiid weliad 
 niusie in the sah)on in tlie evening-. 
 
 Kun to noon to-dav, :\:\2 miles. 
 
 Thursday, I8th August— s.S. "DOMINION." 
 W ind \V. A verv line morniiio-. There 
 had ])eeii some fo_- diiriii- the ni^'ht. and 
 the steam wliisth- kept .i^'oin- a <ro<n\ deal. 
 We are now in the (Jnlf of St. Lawrence, 
 and there is no land to !>•• seen till about tAvo 
 <»Vlo(dv. At 3.1:) we reach Heath Point, 
 and at four o'clock passed the Allan Liner 
 " Sarmatian." lionieward-bound. 
 
 This afternoon tliere were g-anies and 
 races on deck, and, as the ice anion-- the 
 passengers is now pretty well melted, 
 everyone was most agreeable. 
 
 Tn the evening we had a concert in the 
 saloon, wliere tliere was some very good 
 talent, and a eollection was made for the 
 Sailors' Orphanage. Liverpool, which 
 amonnted to £12 odds. 
 
 We had the Chief Harou of Ireland in 
 the chair, and speeches by the chairman 
 and others were made in jiraise of the ship 
 and all concerned, from the cajitain down. 
 Mrs. Ilutton distributed the prizes to the 
 
10 
 
 successful c<)in|>('titors in tlie frames and 
 races. 
 
 Tliis lias l)eeu a uiijst (lelig'httul day 
 tlu'on^'li<>ut. 
 
 Kuii to iioou t(»-(l;iy, 322 miles. 
 
 Friday, I9th August— S.S. "DOMINION." 
 
 Au'»'hor verv lino TiKtniiiii;- — the 
 (Jauadiaiis on board sav this is noio 
 CaiiaditiH weather. Our afti-r experience, 
 however, showed that it was not always 
 hac, t'Vt'U in (Janada. 
 
 We are now skirtino- tiie coast of Ncav 
 I'runswick on owv port side, and the coast 
 shows a i-'ood many scattered hcnises and 
 small patches of fields. Roman Catholicism 
 seems to he g-eneral here from the number 
 of churches, and poverty in eonserpience. 
 At one o'clock reached Father Point, and 
 we take on the first })ilot, who takes 
 charge to Quebec. 
 
 Expect to reach (Quebec ai one o'clock 
 in the morning', where the passen;j,'ers who 
 go by rail disend»arlv. Had some fog 
 d\u*ing the night, and reached Quebec at 
 
 i.ao. 
 
 Wnn to noon to-dav, ooO n)iles. 
 Still l.SO miles to Montreal. 
 
 Saturday, 20th August— S.S. "DOMINION." 
 
 Another beavitiful morniuii. (^ot up at 
 4. HO to bid the diHeml)arking passengers 
 good-bye, but found they had left at 3.30. 
 Changed pilots, and left Quebec at 5.30, 
 
11 
 
 Mild li;i(l u (Icliu'litful sail up the river. 
 The l)iuiks look very " Frcncliy "— white 
 houses iuul small patches of o-rouiid round 
 each, Th(; custom soeiiis to he tor tlu^ 
 French hahitant to divide his property 
 
 -I 
 < 
 
 UJ 
 
 q: 
 
 t- 
 z 
 o 
 
 s 
 
 UJ 
 
 q: 
 < 
 
 O" 
 
 to 
 
 z 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 amoiii;' his family — hence the smalhiess ot" 
 the holding's: besides this, the lots have a 
 small river frontage, and run a good way 
 hack. Arrived at Montreal .').H0 ]).ni. 
 
 Run to-dav, 180 miles. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. M'Farlanc waiting at the 
 
12 
 
 Avhavf for our arrivji], ami, after a -Nvarin 
 ■welcome', wo got cleared by the cnstoiiis 
 officer and drove off to (iOl ISherbrooke 
 Street, wliicli, tliey said, was to be our 
 home while in tlieir city. 
 
 — >::^- 
 
 Aud now a word as to the shi]* and 
 passengers. 
 
 Wlien embarking at Liverpool wc were 
 somewhat alarmed at the height of the 
 vessel above tlie water. She was evidently 
 lightly loaded, and, as she has a high 
 }iromenade deck and two bridges for 
 the use of tlie captain and officers, we 
 were quite sure she woiiUl roll, and that 
 we might have a disagreeable passage, 
 but never a roll a-ave she. We had winds 
 from all (piarters, and whatever thc^ 
 direction of the wind, it did not seem to 
 affect her. Hhe just plodded steadily on, 
 although she ever and anon had to vshake 
 the foam from her prow, and it was <piite 
 interesting to watch the mt)tion of the 
 water as she ploughed lier way along, and 
 overci me its resistance. 
 
 All the passengers (and there Avere some 
 there of wide experience in such matters) 
 said they never had a more comfortable 
 sail nor a pleasanter ship to travel in. 
 
 There was a good promenade deck 
 where one could walk in any weather, as 
 it Avas covered by the deck above, and 
 lighted by electricity. 
 
 And while high praise is due to the ship, 
 
13 
 
 we must not omit to ^-ive the mmc to the 
 officers, iron, the CMptaii, (CaptMhi Janu'Sy 
 down to the ].n-le l,„y wl,o bulled us t.. 
 our nieals. We often say, "Lik,. master like 
 man," and it was true on l^oard this sJiip. 
 
 The captain, doctor, steward, and all 
 concerned did tlieir utmost for the welfare 
 of all, and the vote of thanks passed at 
 the concert ,m Thursday evenin- in sueli 
 felicitous terms was not at ail -Jiio-j, 
 falutmV hut was by every one ricldv 
 nierited. 
 
 Personally, we enj'oyod the sail verv 
 much, ami it was .piit,. too short. Had a 
 most agreeable comj)anion in the state 
 room-u Mr. Walker, an ofKcial ' in 
 connection with the Governor-General's 
 office at Ottawa. Had n<, mal de mer nor 
 illness of any kind, and were alwavs readv 
 to respond to the bu-k. when it gave, the 
 call tor tile tirst tal)le at each meal. At the 
 table we had every variety of eatables and 
 (nnkables suitable for every palate, <.ven 
 the most fastidious. 
 
 And then the passengers— it Avould 
 require a Dickens to do them justice. 
 
 We had a great variety of nationalities- 
 Canadian, French, Irish, English, Scotch, 
 American. 
 
 We iiad Commerce in every varietv— 
 among others, tlio buyer going home fmn. 
 ins pursuit after bargains in the old world, 
 which bargains he expected to dispose of 
 to great advantage am.- •• the denizens 
 
14 
 
 of the now, niul fmni wliirli lio hoped to 
 reap u ricli Iwirvcst. 
 
 Wo liad til.- Kii-lit Il()ii()iir;il)lc the Cliicf 
 Jiiiroi) of Ircl.-iiid, wliu look th* elun'r "it 
 tho concort in the saNion. 
 
 We Had I^aw, ivpresontod Kv tho 
 IIonoiinil)If ('havh's Riissrll, who was uii 
 liis wav t(t hclj) in the no^'otiations fdr 
 the race in connection with Hh' America 
 (h\\). and who sin^-s a ^ood soiii;' : and we 
 liad ]\lr. Taillon, a sjtlendid sjieeiuien of a 
 Fren('li-(Jana(h'an, retnniiiii;' to his dnlies 
 in .Montreal, who seemed to l»e well known 
 to many of the |iassen^'ers, and ,i;'ave 
 creditabhj assistance at tin; cojicert. 
 
 Wo liad till' Church in various ))liases — 
 Dr, Potts, Methodist, on his way home to 
 T(ti'ont(», a mail of hi^lit and leadini;'. who 
 preaclied on Sunday. Mr. Paterson. 
 Prosbytorian. also (»n his way hack t(» 
 I'oroiito. who always had his joki-, Avhieh 
 he enjoyed as well as his meal. Dr, .John 
 Knox (a i;'oo<l name), aii K})isco]talian, 
 iL>,'oini:,'from l>irkenhead across tho ocean for 
 a holiday. And we could sco the IJoman 
 (!Iatliolic, ,<;(aK'rally with hook in liand. 
 which ho over carried, and in Avhich he 
 seemed gTeatly en,i;Tossed : and others 
 whose colours wer<' not so plainly oxhiliited, 
 but we have no donitt all sections of tho 
 church were there. 
 
 We had tho ]\Iedical profession in .u'rcat 
 variety. 
 
 We had the Militarv — ^raior-Goiieral 
 llutton on his way to Canada to take up 
 
15 
 
 conuuaiHl of the forces tlu-re, nn,l oth,.- 
 officers of I esse i- (le^-rtjo. 
 
 And Avo iuul tl, " holiday n.,ker-s(„ne 
 rc'funnn- In.n. fheh- visif io the old world 
 a>"d some startinu. ,„i tJ,,.ir tour in the' 
 new-tlie o„e section lookino- back Avitli 
 "^oro or less pleasure on their experiences, 
 ;'"<' the other lookin.^- forward Avith 
 '^''P-f'il nntieipations to the future. \nd 
 Then ^yr had some who were alwavs rea<lv 
 to «vt up «'ames and sueh lik.-. an.l who 
 m anynnxed cm.pany, are inv.riahlv to 
 Tlic fore and alwavs useful. 
 
 Hon.e men th..n. were' who, if von 
 ^v.•'nfed then., you avouM find in "the 
 sn.okn.^-roon), hut tliey <lid not count 
 tor much. 
 
 Alt,,o.eth..r, we had a n.ost interesting 
 tot of passeno.ers, and. if we ha.l heon 
 ft-oin^' t<, f.mnd a new cohmv or to ph.nf 
 ••' '"'wnty h. .son.e plain of'the far west 
 ^v(■ had all the constituents required in 
 make a hco'innino-. 
 
 ^^ If the j.oet is rio-I,t when he savs that 
 
 i lie proper study of n.ankind is n'.an," it 
 would have heen <..j<>v.nent <.nou,.h to 
 l^ave sat still and studie<l then, as they 
 
 wont to and fro upon the deck da V hv da; 
 
 On hoard ship ih, space is linn'ted, anil,* 
 consequently, .nc- is obli^.d to ruh 
 siouldo-rs constantly with his neio.hI,.,ur 
 One sees a .i^ood d.-al to interest and 
 8-enerally to please. 
 
 W<- had a very a.^reeable jot of 
 passengers at our tahle-were most 
 
1() 
 
 rc^-nlai" in our !itt('n(1jHUM' there, and wvvv 
 ill! Sdi'i'v whin till' time ciuiic that wc 
 must <hspcrsc. 
 
 And now \\i' are in Montreal, where we 
 said we arrived on Saturday, the 20tli 
 Au<^'U8t, at b.'M) p.m. — nine (hiys tVum port 
 to port. 
 
 Had a very warm recojition at (lOl, and 
 were made to feel (piite at home. 
 
 Sunday, 21st August— MONTREAL. 
 
 In the forenoon we went with Mr. M*F. 
 to Olivet liaptist Church, where our late 
 lirother .lames was wont to woi'sln'p, and 
 in the afternoon to Krskine Presbyterian 
 ('hureh, which is the church Mr. M'F. 
 attends. l>oth jn-eachers for the <hiy were 
 stranu-ers, and wt' did not learn who thov 
 were. 
 
 ( )livet Church is a plain buihlinj^-, hut the 
 nnisic is a feature— in fact, it is so in all 
 the churches we Avere in, hoth in Canada 
 and the States, and sometimes it looks as 
 if the pastor occupied oidy a sulxirihnati; 
 plac(>, and has to wait i)atiently (.') till the 
 time comes for his part of the service to 
 be^'in. 
 
 This has l»e;:'n a beautiful day. They 
 call it Canadian weather. 
 
 Monday, 22nd August- MONTREAL. 
 The forenoon was spent in the city 
 visitinii" sojne of the more important 
 
17 
 
 Itiisiiit'SM places. Iliul fi n'ood vit-w tVoiii 
 tli.' tdwcr of till' Xi'W York liisurancc 
 Coiiipaiiy's Imililiii.i;'. Visited Notre I>anu', 
 one (.I'the liiicKt Ivoiiiaii Catliolic clmrelies 
 ill the city, wliieli ()e<-ui>ies a prominent 
 site, and whose towers are seen iVoni tar 
 and near. 
 
 The finest of the l.nildin,i;s in the <'ity 
 lichiiii;- to tin' Koman Catholics, and, in 
 fact, all the pr()vin(;e is very mneh under 
 their iidlueiiee. 
 
 In the afternoon went n\) to Mount 
 lv(»val and tin; eenieterv, and visited the 
 place where .lames' remains lie. It is a 
 heautifnl place, and all the plots are taste- 
 fully kept. 
 
 This has l»een another heautifnl day. 
 
 Tuesday, 23rd August— MONTREAL 
 
 In the forenoon in the city a^-ain. .Ma<le 
 a few calls in the afternoon— Kev. Mr. Hill, 
 Mrs. McDonald, Mrs. Aitken. 
 
 In the evening- Mr. .Md'\ had a few 
 friends to meet us, and we had a pleasant 
 time. 
 
 This has heen a dull day, 
 
 Wednesday, 24th August— OTTAWA. 
 
 Early tills morniiii^', accompanit'd hy Mr. 
 M"F., we left for Ottawa, where we arrive(l 
 at 1l'.;)0. The rivei- here is very wide, ami 
 is larii'elv used for itowi-r for driving' the 
 lumiter mills, of which there are several 
 close to the city. 
 J? 
 
18 
 
 Wo visited one of the Ifiri-vst, also a 
 l).'il)or mill, then w,.„f ov.r tlio (ioveni- 
 
 iMcnt l.llil(li,i-N, which illV cxfriisiv,. Mil. I 
 
 iiuposiiig. 
 
 ThiR .seems u Inisy city, aiid contains 
 many fino l.uil.h'no.H. Coniin- aloi.o. I,v 
 rail, wore Htruck hy the iniml),.i- of \vo?„lc"n 
 iiouHes and the poorness of the farms. 
 Oretit many trees cut down. l,nt saw tui 
 rafts on the way down the river. 
 
 It had been rainin.o- in the mornino- ,,i)d 
 the streets were in a fearful state, but 
 that is no rare thin,-- in this countrv. 
 
 Left at six : j^ot home at ten. 
 
 'I'his has been a dull day after the rain 
 ceased. 
 
 Thursday, 2Sth August— MONTREAL 
 In the forenoon called on Messrs. (^iirrie, 
 Mr. .1. yiinian's iriends, and then took a' 
 drive round the mountain. 
 
 Had an invitation from Mr. p. Lain- to 
 spend a lew days Avith Jiini and his familv 
 at Camp Sakta, Lac IJouIe, where they g'o 
 for the summer months. 
 
 Left for St. Aovithc at :).;]0 p.m., arriving- 
 at ten. The latter part of the way was 
 by bugo.y. It was very ,hirk, and the road 
 very rough. We had sonu- .lillieiiltv in 
 holding' on. 
 
 Friday, 26th Augusl-ST. AGATHE. 
 This is a deli-htful place for a 
 l'"li<lay— .juite in the bush— beautiful lake 
 P2 
 
19 
 
 ami iiioiiiitiiiii sfoiicry— mill's IVoin aiiy 
 tuwd — IK) |)(ist iior itiijtcrH. 
 
 Mr. L. Ii.'hI cluaivd Ji jtart nf flic hush 
 and cn-ctcd a l(»,i;- house, which is vorv 
 <^<>tiif()rta))K'. pM.atiiij^^ ('anoriu.^^ and 
 fishing-, tho occuitations, which wi- have 
 not hei'ii sidw to take advanta,i;-c of. 
 
 This has hccn a showcrv da\-. 
 
 Saturday, 27th August— ST. AGATHE. 
 
 At ten all the household started ha- a 
 pic-nic on the lake Sailed so far, then 
 had the hoat conveyed on a cart to 
 another lake, and sailed a,^-ain. Itctunied 
 same way. and got hack ahoiit six. The 
 scenery round here is very lovely — high 
 n-ounlains with trees, and then tlie Avater 
 Jieips so much. Onilc. Si-ottislt. 
 
 In the evening had a sail l.y moonlight, 
 
 and heardsonie wonderful eclioeswlien near 
 the otiier side (.f the lake. 'J'he northern 
 lights to-night were very heantiful. 
 
 This has heen a most enjoyable day, 
 and tho weather ])erfect. 
 
 -^_'f 
 
 Sunday, 28th August— ST. AGATHE. 
 
 The nearest church is four miles distant, 
 and it is Koman (Jatholic, so did m.r go. 
 Took a stroll oji the lake, and, after dinner, 
 liad a walk uj. the hill to Ruth's look-out, 
 a wooden erection a few hundred feet up.' 
 
 Lovely scenery — lake, Avood, and 
 mountain everywhere. 
 
 This has l)een another deli<.-litful dav. 
 
20 
 
 Monday, 29th August— ST. AGATHE. 
 
 Drove to St. Ai^atho witli Mv. and Mrs. 
 L., wlu.'rc Mr. li, had sonic business to 
 do. Homo at two. Drove tl)roii,i;li 
 ))eautilul (;ouiitry, Inke and wood, Init tlie 
 roads — dear me I Part ot" the rcnid we went 
 over was n<'wly cut tlirongli the l)ns]i. 
 Where it was h-vel — o-ood am' well, but 
 wliere it had to l)e matle U}), a few trees 
 placed a(;r()ss the hollow ami a litth? sand 
 over them was euoiii^'h — time will do the 
 rest. 
 
 In the eveiiin.i;' went out to the iishiui;', 
 hut with seaut success. 
 
 The weathei- to-day has heeii dull, with 
 showers in the forenoon — al'tei'wards, fine, 
 hive not yet seen a )nos(piito nor any 
 other insect that hites. 
 
 4;;f 
 
 Tuesday, 30th August— ST. AGATHE. 
 
 Left Cami. Sakta at \:M) for St. A,i;athe. 
 and reached Montreal ahout seven. 
 Enjoyed the drix'e ai;"ain very much. 
 
 This has been a beautiful day. 
 
 Wednesday, 3Ist August— MONTREAL 
 
 In the tbrenooii took a car drive to 
 Maisou Neuvc. a i;-ood way east, when' 
 there is a mineral well, which is a ]>laee of 
 resort for the .Montrealcrs : and, after 
 dinner, the doctor took us a drive' I'ouml 
 the mountain and through the eenn'tery. 
 
 Aut'ither line dav. 
 
21 
 
 Thursday, 1st September— MONTREAL 
 In the foiviiooii called on t|,o M,.s,sr.s. 
 M<'r«nu .•incl Mr. iV-attie, and at twelv,' 
 "Started alon- with Mrs. M'Farlane and 
 .Mrs. Stewart for a car ride to IJout de f/il,.. 
 the .south-east Ihnit of the i.sjaiid. Uiul 
 dinner there, and got home at O.'U). 
 
 _ This is a great pla<M. uf res.ot for the 
 fity peoj.le, and, in the seas(;n, nnist I;e 
 <juite gay. There is a goo.I hotel, and 
 t'very accommodation for crowds of 
 people. 
 
 To-lay the forenoon has h,.en 
 showery— afterwards, jim-r. Tinmder- 
 showers at night. 
 
 At 10.i\") p.m., accomi.anied hy C., left 
 hy the Grand Triiidc for Kin-st'on, with 
 the view of sailing through the Thonsand 
 Islands on the morrow. 
 
 Friday, 2nd September— SHOOTING THE RAPIDS. 
 Arrived at Khigston four a.m. and left 
 hy steamer at h've. Meautiful morning, 
 and a good many i)assengeis on hoard; 
 many of tlnmi evidently Yankees, who' 
 nnist always he to the h.re, regardless of 
 other peo].le's feelings. The .space from 
 which to view the s<-enery is limited, and 
 they seemed to have a monopoly. 
 
 Hadadelightfnl.sailamongtheThou.sand 
 I.slands, many of them small and M'ell 
 Avooded. with snmmer residences on them: 
 hut the river l.aidss are tiat— at least, not 
 inountainou.s. 
 
22 
 
 Sailing- down tliu ia})i(lN was fairly j^<it»il, 
 l)ut iiotliiii^' woiHtevful. 
 
 'J'lie weutlier cliiiii^'cd at four, when it 
 bcg'an to tliinidor and rain (such rain I), 
 and tliis continued more or less till seven, 
 Avlien Ave arrived at ]\rontrt'al. 'riic captain 
 seemed undecided as to Avhetlier or no ho 
 Avould slioot Laehine, l)ut he did, and we 
 cam(' down in lioavy rain ami scnii- 
 darkness. Glad to hv. on terra firma. 
 
 (It looks as if the (Janadians kept on 
 })raising- thivS shooting the ra})ids'. and the 
 Yankees take it all in an<l come in crowds. 
 We told the Montreal friends that.) 
 
 Saturday, 3rd September — MONTREAL. 
 
 In the forenoon took car drives through 
 various parts of the city, and in the 
 afternoon Mr. Md'\ gave us a drivi- u]) the 
 mttuntain and to i^he cemetery. 
 
 Had a splendid view from the look-out, 
 and got back at four. 
 
 In the sunshine the city looks very 
 pretty — the foliage and the red and grey 
 roofs have a very })leasing eftect. 
 
 In the evening a lew friends at (iOl to 
 tea. 
 
 This has f>een a (hdightful day — very 
 warm. 
 
 Sunday, 4th September — MONTREAL. 
 
 A.M.-lMskine Church. P.M.— l^aptist. 
 Mr. ({rant's meeting \-ery poorly 
 al tended. A good nuxny people still in the 
 
n 
 
 country, and otlu-r.s al)Sci)t on accoiinf ,,t' 
 til,, lieat— 1)2 in tlio shade to-day. Glad t.. 
 s«'e the Montreak-rs tWl it as linich as wu 
 do. 
 
 Peculiarity in churches here is the use 
 of fans hy l/oth ineu and women. To-dav, 
 perhaps, it was excusable. 
 
 Monday, Sth September— MONTREAL. 
 
 L;il)our (hiy. Called (.n Dr. Stirlhig. 
 A(-coinpain'ed by :Mrs. M'F. and Mrs. s!. 
 l<'ft at twelve l.y ear for (:;arrier Ville, 
 on the P.ack Hiver. This is a little place 
 behind the mountain, which is laid out in 
 h)ts for sale at five to ten cents per square 
 foot. 'I^he enstom in this country is )n>i 
 to feu ground for building- upon, but to buy 
 it, and the prices named don't seem high.' 
 
 In the evening sa^v Mr. Grant, and 
 arranged to go to (Jrande Ligne to- 
 mori-()w. 
 
 Day dull — not much sunshine. 
 
 t:T 
 
 Tuesday, 6th September—GRANDE LIGNE. 
 As arranged, left at nine for Gramk,- 
 I.igne, accompanied by Afr. G. We 
 had to leave the train at St. .lohn's 
 and (h-ive ten miles in what the people 
 here call a - team"— we would call it a 
 buggy. W,. passed through a good 
 fanning country— fair-sized farms and a 
 good many cattle. The country is Hattish, 
 and most of the farms derive their water 
 .su|)ply from wells sunk in the farm vard. 
 
24 
 
 Tlic road Avu [)a,s.SL'(i ovcf was like tliu 
 rest, soinewluit cnuh,' ami vtry duHty. 
 ()]i arriving' at the Mission house \vu found 
 the .school was not in session, l)ut we 
 saw over llie premises, and had a tnlk 
 with tlie ja'ineijiiil and a goo(l many of 
 ti)e stall. 
 
 It a[)pears to he a veiy well-ei|uii)[)ed 
 estaldishnieiit, and the teaeliers all seemed 
 interested and full of their work. At one 
 time they li;id had trouble fron) the Jioman 
 (Jatholics, but that liad ceased. 'I'hey 
 liave a ceinetery, where inany of the 
 former hd>ourers are interred. lA'ft at l.oO, 
 arrivini;- at Montreal at three. 
 
 Enjoyed the visit very much. 
 
 After tea visited (Element and his wife 
 to liid them jj:,'ood-ljye. 
 
 This lias been a dull day — rain in the 
 evenin_i>'. 
 
 Wednesday, 7th September — MONTREAL. 
 
 Made a few farewell calls to-day — 
 ^Ir. Moi'i^an, ^Ir. Haidvin, j\Ii.ss Fairbairn, 
 and .Mr.s. Laiiii;-. 
 
 Nothing else special to-day except to 
 arrange for departure on the morrow. 
 Booked to San Francisco, and, in tlie 
 evening, we })lanned our route to that city 
 dav bv dav, and the same was stricth' 
 carric<l out as tabulated. 
 
 'Jdns morning the weather was dull, 
 and then it rained fn)m ten till li\( — 
 regular GlasgoAV weather. 
 
•>:> 
 
 Thursday, 8t4i September— TO TORONTO. 
 
 Left Montreal at n..".() a.m., Mr. M*F., 
 (Jlt-iiieiit, llie doctor, and Mrs. Stewart 
 .'"■•eL'in<j,' us oir. Arrived Toronto seven ]).iii. 
 
 The train was not vi'rv l)usy, and we 
 liad a eoint"ortal»le ride. I>y the way, the 
 eou'itry is most ly wooded, Avith small farms 
 here ami there, tiil nearini:,' Toronto, when 
 the seeiiery lieeomcs more Scotch in its 
 character, exce})t that the distant liills are 
 hiwer, farms smaHer, and a i;'reat many 
 l)nrnt stnm})s and l)rok'eii trees on the 
 rii^'ht and h'I't. 
 
 'Idn-re is a fair hcijij^' hehl in Toronto 
 and the city is very husy. Mr. I'mcham 
 was waitini;' for ns. and said he had 
 eny,'ai;('d a room in the "(Jneen's." Thei'c 
 had, however, l)een some )nisnii(h'rstand- 
 iny,', and they eduld not aceonniKxhite ns. 
 and we wei'e taken in hy Mr. H. for the 
 nig'lit. 
 
 \\ ei'e \erv ])h'ase(l to h-ai'n the 
 Directors had ad\ised him of onr coming- 
 and asked him to show ns attention. He 
 was looking' for onr ari'ixal. 
 
 This has been a line day — a little rain 
 hetween i'oiU' and tive. 
 
 Friday, 9th September — TORONTO. 
 
 In the forenoon walked throngh some 
 of the jtrincipal streets, and mad calls — 
 .Mr. Allan. Mr. ^lurray, J'^atotis. in the 
 afternoon took a car drixc round the citv, 
 and Went to visit the exhibition. 
 
20 
 
 Thes*' cxliihitioiis ;ire lidd in several of 
 the cities annually, and diaw larj^c crowds, 
 wlio sjieiid money freely. 
 
 in tile evening- went with Mr. and 
 Mrs. ]\. to a l»an(|ii('t g'ivcn to the 
 I^Ietliodist deleji'ates, who are holdijig a 
 conference here at present. It was a iine 
 i;atherini^', and there Avas good sjieaking" — 
 of course, all on the lines of their own 
 ehnreh and denomination. Had the 
 pleasure of speakin.i^' to i)r. Potts jind his 
 dau|i;-hter, who came aci'oss in the s.s. 
 '' l>ominion." 
 
 This is a line city, almost le\'el. The 
 streets are r(\i;-ular and well kept, and the 
 people are very active. There are some 
 very large retail Rt(»res. In the residential 
 j»ortion, a i^'ood many trees and a great 
 deal of gi'ass along the side-walks. 
 
 This has been a fine day. 
 
 Saturday, lOth September— TORONTO. 
 
 In the forenoon visited some of the 
 churches — .Metrop(»litan Methodist, St. 
 Michael's Catholic, and St, .lames 
 p]})iscopal (nothing very special about 
 them) — Massey Hall. Simpson's Store, 
 Hank of Montreal, tScc. 
 
 Spent the ai'ternoon with Mr. iind 
 Mrs. .lames Allan, and visited the 
 (xovt-rnmcnt buildings, (Jity Park, iSiC. 
 The buildings are very extensive, and 
 stand at the north end of the park. Had 
 
27 
 
 .'I g(u)(l view ..f til," cityfn.m llir lil.rary 
 lloor. 
 
 Another *iiie day— l.noJif sun and 
 fVosh brc'fzo. 
 
 Sunday, llth September -TORONTO. 
 
 A.M.— Dr.'i^l.onias, Baptisi (,^liurcli. .Inl. 
 <!, '"'. iValiii ;)7, 1. 
 
 ^ P.M.— Parkdalc M-tlicdist Sal)l)alli 
 ^cJiool with Mr. IJiicliam. 
 
 P.M.— C,.(,kr I»R'sl)ytenan (Jhiuvii, .Air. 
 Patersuii. ,Juhn 10, .-J.V'iS. 
 
 Tliis is a l;.r-v huil.h'n- said to seat 
 -\5()(), and they said there were i\«()() 
 present, as the passa-v.s were filled. 
 
 A hri-lit, eheerful service, and the nmsie 
 ^■ery hearty. 
 
 Mr. Puterson was a passon.uvr on the 
 '• Duniiniou," and we shook hands at the 
 close of the nieetin-;'. 
 
 This has l)een a deh'-httui day. 
 ^ This city is very quiet an.l'onh.rlv on 
 SiUKhiys, and oidy a few cars run. 
 
 Monday, I2th September— NIAGARA. 
 
 Accompanied l.yMr., Mrs., and Miss P.. 
 K'ft at m'ne for Nia-ara, and niaih- th.' 
 tour of the Falls. Had to o., I,y train, as 
 the early .steannu- was o<f f.r the" seas,,,,'. 
 
 One cannot take in the ma.«--nitu.h,' of 
 the falls all at <.nce, and. when lii-st see.,. 
 they don't appear so immense, hut a closer 
 
28 
 
 a|ijii'njicli shows tliciii tdlicttcr a(l\;mtiii;'c. 
 and tlicy arc llicii seen in all tln'ir 
 .i^raiideur. 
 
 The (yanailiaii I'^all is tliu hi-ttcr of tliu 
 1 Wo, ami oil tiiat side the *2,Toinids arc well 
 kcjit, and tlicri' is an alisoncc of the nn'lls, 
 SiC, which (h"sli,ij;nrc the American side. 
 W'e heard of a nian who, when aski-d if 
 he did not think the lalls wonderl'id. said 
 no — it" the water I'an np instead ot'(h)Wii 
 he niiu'ht think it woiiderruh h\it he did 
 not see wdiat else it eoidd »h». 
 
 The lall is really \-ery j;-rand and awe- 
 ins[>irin,u'. and the rajii<ls ahove and lielow 
 arc CMjually so. 
 
 We took ear all the way up to 
 ('hijtpev •;, and i;'ot drenched hy the spray 
 iVoni tlu.' falls on passinj^' — walked I'ound 
 about the l)nllerin islands — look cardown 
 to (^uceiistown -crossed over hy the 
 steamer and went 11}) the (iore-c Road hy 
 car on the Anxrieaii side. This (iori^-u 
 i{oad was opened ahoiit three years a.i;'o, 
 and is laid <[tiite on the niari^'in of the 
 river, it allonls line views of the rapids 
 and the wdiirl}»ool. 
 
 (Jneofthe hest views of the Canadian 
 Fall is also i;<)t from that road on nearin^' 
 the hii;'h 1>ri<l,L;'e wdiieh crosses the river. 
 Did not attempt any of the darin,^' deeds 
 induli^x'd in hy some tra\'ellcrs. 
 
 Made two calls with Mr. 15. on cust(»iuers. 
 (iot \)Hfk to Toronto ahout cii;ht. 
 
 This has heen a most eiijOyahlc (Liy — 
 weather perfect. 
 
Il<jmm'^tiy;;''''Wi''W' ' V'''vr.v'i'' 
 
 < 
 
 < 
 < 
 
:u) 
 
 Tuesday, 13th September — HAMILTON. 
 
 Took tr.iiii ;it nine toi- Ilaiiiilloii. 
 aniviiij;" at tun. Passed maiiv liclds of 
 grapes hy tlio way. Had written Mr. 
 Alexander Murray, a toriiier ciistonicr of 
 ours, lint now retired from Itn.siness, tliat 
 we wei'C! eoiiiin,:;', and he was waitin,ii; at 
 tlie place appointed, lie was very pleased 
 to see ns, and liad many questions to ask 
 cojicernini;- t'riends in tin' olil eountrv. He 
 took us a drive; up the nionntain (so called), 
 IVom w]n'<di there is a i,nM)d view of the 
 eitv. 
 
 ■ 
 
 (^alled ('!i M)-, \'allanee, who was a 
 tellow-passeii,i;er eomini^ out. and had a 
 ehat with liini. Math' some calls on 
 customers, and left at 8.40 for Lonihrn. 
 
 Had arrang'ed to meet Mr. James (^arrie, 
 an old friend, wlio was waiting' fur us. 
 To<"k a turn with him roimd the city, 
 and made some calls. He is a ,^•ood (leal 
 ehanji;ed, and much faded. 
 
 We liad much to spealc of concernfni»' 
 ohl times, and he was very pleased to 
 have all the news we could ^-ivc him. 
 
 Another dt'liii-htful day. 
 
 Wednesday, 14th September— LONDON. 
 
 Hound and ahout London making' calls 
 on custtnncrs. Tin; city is very busy on 
 account of the annual exhibition which is 
 l)cini>" held here. Immense crowds, ami 
 very busy streets. The people show great 
 activitv. These three cities — Toronto, 
 
";"'"■''""' ••"Ml L.'n.lnM-resc.M.l.l,. ,,u-U 
 
 "^''"'; ':''>■ ""'"''• 'I'Ihmv is tlu. sa.n. 
 
 ;-<-^-nl;.ntyorthost.v.tsjMr^.ew..,rel.ous,.s 
 (•'•• .sloivs, as th,.v call fh.-n,), ,,m| t|„. 
 
 l'on,,lose...nfuhavraoToaf.|..al,.f,,us|. 
 
 Lc.ttati>J0fo,Ton.,t,,,,,,-ivmo.|;.;5(,. " 
 Another verv (inr da v. 
 
 KvoiTbodv sa ys I liaV,. ,..„... out at tho 
 
 '•'.i^-l't timo, and that I an, sure ru l.av. fin. 
 weather. 
 
 Thursday, ISth Seplember-TORONTO. 
 Mad." a f.Mv o.,H,d-hy.. calls in th. 
 
 ••^•Moo„-Allan,Mnn-ay,andothcrs-and 
 J<''t ioronto at one for 0^-,,, S.nnul 
 .•trrivin^- there at five. 
 
 (The ronte through the lakes to Fort- 
 \^ illiani was chosen instead of the Ion-.- 
 
 ''"l^vay journey, the s-anie bei, a 
 
 passeng-ers' oi)tion.) 
 
 Along the line of railway wc. passed 
 .rough a good farn. country, n.anv of 
 li<" fanns well stocked with cattle "an.l 
 liorses. 
 
 . t^^ ?^"^'" ^<'^"^'^' •>" I^ake fl„,,„, ,t 
 
 .>.-3)mt,iies.s.'^.Vthal,asca,''afine(;ivde- 
 1>". t steamer, on a beautiful even'in-, 
 with a fan- number of passeno-ei-s 
 
 Another fine ,lay-a shower a"bout four 
 o clock. 
 
 Friday, .6th September -g.s. "ATHABASCA." 
 
 InLakeJiuron-h.ndseenon th<. st,-,,- 
 board side only. 
 
32 
 
 I'llis is ;i liii,. ship ;|||,1 \Vrll-;||.|M,i||tc.l - 
 
 •■•"'•l'' ;iinl cv. TV thill-- ..|si' (|iiii,. iij, t,, Hi.- 
 
 itiiirk. 
 
 At !.;;() rc'ich.Ml S.iiilt S|i.. .M.-iriM. whov 
 ^'""^ l''l<'' ••iii'l li.'ikc Sii|.(.ri,,r .iMcf. iu\i\ 
 wh.-iv fh._v arc )ciii,.,| l.y iimiHiis,. hM-lcs. 
 '•'"' ^'•■•ii.iWi.iii ami nu,' Aiiicric'iii. hiit thrv 
 arc used iinh'scriiiiiiiatclv. 
 
 N\ <• pass throii-h the Im-U, ;n\i\ n\ -J/M) 
 ^vc ;iri. ill I,;i|<(. Siijici'ior. 
 
 •^'''' 'I ,:;'"m| ii,;iiiy vessels of vai'iciis 
 kinds cii I,;ikc iiiii'oii l.ii'e'c carrviije. 
 '•'•■•"I't .•Ml. I several wlnlc-hacks. Must ,} 
 
 tlu'lll may he -mmiJ \-ny tVei,e||t | ,11 r| m iscs. 
 hut Ihcy ;irc 11, .1 v,.|.y j,|Vll_\ Mnr shi|)- 
 slia |)e. 
 
 This has hccn a (ieli-htfiil day, ami wc 
 ha\-i' had a vryy plejisaiit sail. 
 
 Saturday, 17th September- s.s 'ATHABASCA." 
 
 Still ill L;ike Siipci-icr. and ;i Jin,. 
 iii'>riiiiie-. This is ,-i very l,ir.-e |;,kc. and 
 we are a '^nud deal (.lit of sio-ht cl'laml. 
 They say Sc(,tl;iiid eoiild he siihiiicr^vd 
 ill this lake, and it w.nild imt hll it. Wc 
 reached I'ort-Art hiir at t\ve|\-e. 
 
 I his is a vijyy hack \V( m , dish town on a 
 sli,i;-|itly elevated sit iiat i(Mi. 
 
 Owine' to seme dispute with the(\IM|., 
 their depot was c|i;inevd to l'"ort-\\'illi;im. 
 and J'ort-Arlhiir is deelinine'. 
 
 I''"rt-William was reached ;it (.im o'clock. 
 
 1'"' <'"llditien ot' this p|; is e\-eii m,,,.,. 
 
 harkwoodishthaii the other. |{o;,dshad — 
 
CO 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 -J 
 
 (,' 
 
34 
 
 IK) ;ippcaraiice of <lvaitin,t;-( — wood side- 
 walks where tlicro arc any. The lionscs 
 areofwood, aiul verv seatteved. The i)la<-f 
 mii:;lit 1)0 said to Im- ([uifc in th(" Uusli. In 
 spite of their haekward condition in the 
 senses named, most of tlu-se phiecs have 
 r ir electric cars, and in this I'cspcct th<'y 
 are np to date. 
 
 Left hy train for Wiinnpe,i;- at 2.40. 
 
 I)uniRh day. 
 
 Sunday, I8th September— WINNIPEG. 
 
 Arrived at \Vinnipe,i;' at seven a.m. 
 
 So lon.i;- as (hiylii;')it lasted on Saturday 
 we passed thron-'h a pretty eonnti'y— --ood 
 I'iver and hill seei'.evy. A ,i;'ood deal oi 
 wood, the youn.i;- trees bei;imiin^- to 
 assume a, y How appearance. 
 
 The river passini;' thi'on,u'h Fort-William 
 is hrown, wide, and rapid, and at the 
 wharf are several very lar-e ,t;'rain 
 elevators. 
 
 A])proaehin,-;- Winnipe-- the c(.untry is 
 Hat, and a -ood deal of small laish. 
 Patches of ,<;Tain cut Imt not -'athered, 
 hut verv few houses to he seen. 
 
 Winnipej;' is well laid owu and the chief 
 streets have a i;-ood many line buildings, 
 Imt when you leave them the roads are very 
 bad— no proper fixini«' up of tlu' cari'ia^v 
 wav, and the footpaths wood or i\one at 
 idh' The ehief streets are wide, and 
 to-day thi^v are .juiet, as no curs run. and 
 thereis pcareely any other kind of vehicle 
 about, exeept. ]H'rhaps. the bicycle. 
 ('2 
 
o 
 
 u 
 
 a. 
 
 z 
 
 2 
 
T]m and 801)16 others of tlio Western 
 towns ina(l(! us Hkon them to a person 
 liaiidsoiuL'ly dressed in every respect, 
 <"xeept that the boots wert- okl and woimi! 
 and verv mueli in need of cleaninn-. 
 
 AVont to tlie Second J'>ai)tist Clnu-e]), 
 Mr. \'incent, and liear.l a sermon from 
 Mai. ;;. 1(1, 17. About 100 remained to the 
 ordinance, and the pastor was blowing- 
 them np for so few beino- present. [ 
 understood him to say tliat out of alx.ut 
 'MH) only 1<)0 were present. 
 ^ P.M.— Went to Knox Presl^yterian 
 Church. A fail- cong-regation.' 'J1io 
 feature— anthem, solos, and quartette as 
 usual. 
 
 Another line day — (hill earl v. 
 
 Monday, 19th September— WINNIPEG. 
 
 Called on My. i^.aidield. one of our 
 customers, and Ave took (b-ive.s and walks 
 throu-h the .-ity. We visited an abattoir 
 newly erected, but did not see the process, 
 as the slayin.o: was over for the day, and' 
 we were ((uite ,-]ud of this. 
 
 It ai)peared to be a well-equipped 
 buildii.o. in every resi)ect for the purpose, 
 and it lias a copious flow of Mater from an 
 artesian well. 
 
 Took a run by electric car to the out- 
 skirts, and had our first view of the prairie. 
 
 Winnipe.i>- seems to be an active 
 ]>usincss centre, and (puto -•o-ahead. 
 
 Leave for Banff at 7.10 p.m. 
 
37 
 
 \Vcatlier ]iiis l.een dull to-day, said to 
 l>c'^ caused l)y pr;,irie Wwh in tli.- 
 neighbourhood— no rain. 
 
 Tuesday, 20th September— to BANFF, 
 On the. (U>.K. ,11 day. From six a.n,. 
 to SIX p.iii. love] iirairiu coimtrv. Not 
 many houses, aiid v,,ry few cattle iu the 
 east i)ortion. Toxvurds the west, some 
 ranches, and a o,,„d many cattle and 
 liorses. The country wc passed tiu'ough 
 Avas very iini, and nothing to relieve the 
 eye. At some of the stations saw a. few 
 Indians. They are not yew piv- 
 possessing. Their (.-hief occupation seems 
 to be the fixing up of buffah. liorns, and 
 niaknig them into ornaments f,.r hana-in-- 
 in halls. "^ "" 
 
 SaAv one or two patches of praii'ie fire 
 <»n the way. 
 
 Another hue day. 
 
 ^dr 
 
 Wednesday, 2Ist September— BANFF. 
 
 Arrived Bantf at 7.:]() a.m. among the 
 hills. After the day on the prairi^. the 
 first look of the mountains tin's morning 
 Avas very retivshing— and such monntains ! 
 
 Had thought th.. pictures exhibited at 
 radway stations and elsewhere must be 
 exaggerated, but evidentlv iK.t so. 
 
 The C.P.U. ib.tel is a 'mile an.l a-half 
 from the station, and, after 3(1 hours in the 
 train, were very glad to walk the distance. 
 
38 
 
 Till' liotfl is veiy finely situatetl up tlio 
 ,si(l(3 of Olio of tlie iiioutit;iins overlooking 
 the 15o\v \'allev, and the views in any 
 
 t. t 
 
 flirection ;ii-e awfully grand — ])eak after 
 peak, and many of them snow-capped. In 
 the forenoon took a drive round Tunnel 
 Mountain, and in the afternoon another 
 drive to see a herd of bulfaloes, whieli 
 belong to the ( Jovernnient. and which an- 
 enclosed in ])ai't of the bush, some two 
 miles olt. 
 
 Morning line — later, dull and threaten- 
 ing, and a few drops of rain. 
 
 BANFF— BOW VALLEY. 
 
 Thursday, 22nd September— BANFF. 
 
 It had been riiiniiig heavily during the 
 night, and this morning the higher hills 
 
have a coatiii,!-- cf snow, and they are vcrv 
 
 beautiful in the sunsln'ne. 
 
 In the forenoon, J^.y. J. and Mrs. M,.or, 
 
 win, Avere passen-ers on the hdces steamer' 
 HiTiyed, and Ave together took a walk nii 
 thohill,900fee^tothehot,sull,hnrsI,rin... 
 
 ' hero IS a small hot.'l therein Avhiei, they 
 receive rhenmatie patients, and whei-e the'v 
 «ay tliey cure them. IJad a talk wit'h 
 some of the patients, who said thev ha<! 
 been i-reatly benetited. 
 
 After lunch we joined in a drive to the 
 Devil's Lake, nine miles off, and o,,t back 
 m time for dinner. Had wonderful vi..us 
 "^ the mountains, and different at everv 
 turn. 
 
 Dull afternoon. Heavy rain at ni,i^-lit. 
 
 Friday, 23rd September-TO VANCOUVER. 
 Left IJaiifFat (5. 80 a.m. 
 It raine.l last nio.ht. and the hills have 
 a h-esh coatin- of snosv this inornin- 
 
 I>urino. the Avhoh- of the da v the train 
 '■"1 m and amon- the mountains and up 
 '\'hI down in a nmst marvellous, and at 
 times a ■''"inewhatalarmiim- manner. 
 
 At one place the descent was 1,000 feet 
 in some eioht miles, 4^ to the 100, but it 
 was done very earefully. If not, it mi^.ht 
 have been serious, as ^yr were on a sort of 
 shelf ovevhano.inn. ;, ,ieep ravine. Great 
 care and experience be-ct conHdence 
 
 At one place, the " Glacier," we .lesceiid 
 what IS called a loop. Lookino- down you 
 
10 
 
 Hev. tlie liiu- "wiiidiiii;' alxjut in the valley, 
 and, at oiio ])lacc'. the train describes quite 
 a senii-cirele. 
 
 Ueaeliod Kevelstolve at live p.m. There 
 is here a junclioii. and we had to wait twu 
 lionrs I'or a (•ouiieetiii^- train. 
 
 JAWS OF DEATH C.P. RAILWAY. 
 
 Saturday, 24th September — TO VANCOUVER. 
 
 Still on the train, which is tlu'ce hours 
 lale this niorniii^L;'. 
 
 Daylii^'ht showed sonu' chan_:;'e of scene. 
 The hills are not now so hii;'h, but they 
 are very hare — no ves^utation. and nothini;' 
 interesting about them except their 
 wildness. We run throuu'h some wild 
 
41 
 
 lutsscs they ciill ciuiyoiis. Tlic hi^'h rocks 
 ai-o very close to-etlier. .•iiid the line is 
 '•llilt (.11 ;i projectinii. will) a tiu-huleiit 
 strcjiiii iMiiuiin,!;' l)el()Av. It is very wild, 
 and Sdiiictiiiies very dmio'erdiis IdnkiiiM-, 
 Nearin,^' N'aiieonvei- we rise and fall a 
 'j;i)i)d deal, and wc are Kdiiietiiiies l.OOO 
 feet al)()ve the river, and a,i;'ain Ave fall to 
 qnitc near it. Taken alto-ether, the line 
 is a Very darin,i;' piece i»t' enj^'ineerin,-;'. and. 
 althou,i;h ala]-inin,ii^ at times, tlie ascents 
 and descents are so carefully inana-vd 
 ihat one foro'ets the (l-in^'er. 
 Arrived at Vancouver -J.'M) p.m. 
 In the alt. 'I'll. .on took a walk thrwn-h 
 some of the i»rincipal streets, and a run i.v 
 electric car to Xew Westminster, which 
 was recently almost wln.Ily destn.ved I.v 
 (ire. On the way out saw a, i^ond manv 
 half-l.ui'nt trees, d'he fire had devi.ure'd 
 ii great many of the houses and l.nsiness 
 l)la(;es, and there was still a -•ood deal of 
 debris a])out. The people wei'e husv 
 reljuihh'n.i;' some of tlu- houses, and ayain 
 of wo(.)d. This is a small seaport, and 
 there are luufher mills, and u larij,'e trade 
 is done in timl.er. 
 
 Tlu! steamer foi' SaJi l''rancisc(. sails 
 t'r<tm \'ict(.ria on .Momhiy, and we were 
 told there was no steaniei- on that dav 
 fi'om Vancouver in connecti(.n, so we niav 
 have to leave this to-niorn.w aftenioi.n. 
 
 \ anc(.uver is a i;'ood l.usincss citv. and 
 is growin-'. They say it has a -real 
 future before it. 
 
42 
 
 Sunday, 25th September — VANCOUVER. 
 
 In the nioriiiiig took a walk round tho 
 town, and came upon the First I'aptist 
 Clmreli (there arc three) and had a talk 
 with the })aKtor. Then went to 8t. 
 Andrew's Presbyti-rian Church close by, 
 Avliere there was an interesting- cliildrcn's 
 Service being held, consisting mostly of 
 music and readings. Did not wait for the 
 address, as we were compelled to leave by 
 steamer for Victoria in the afternoon, or 
 else lose Hvc days waiting for another 
 steamer going south to San Francisco. 
 
 Left N'ancouver at 2,'oi) in charming 
 Weather. 
 
 The sail down the Gulf of Georgia was 
 very l^cautiful. Looking back after an 
 hour's sail, there is a long chain of hills to 
 the north resend)ling Goatfell, but they 
 are higher, and there are a great many 
 Goatfells, and some of them have snow 
 on their summits. 
 
 hi the afternoon sunshine, the scene is 
 verv lovely. 
 
 A striking object to the west, which we 
 are told is 1^0 miles away, is Mount Baker, 
 14,000 feet high, and covered with snow. 
 The whole scene is very beautiful indeed. 
 Vancouver Island is ou our right, but only 
 the higher portions of it visible, and 
 there are other sujall islands ahead, but 
 a great way oft'. Oiu' steamer is the 
 " Islander," built by Napier, Shanks & 
 Bell, and thi.; Pacific Ocean is very pacific. 
 
43 
 
 May it (•(•iitiinic so— iit ;ill events, I'oi-sohr' 
 (lays. Liitf r, wc pass roiiiid and aniony 
 a ]iu)ul.cr of I.cautit'iil islands. 
 
 Tliese and tiio ealnuu-ss of the ocean 
 recall Loch-Lomond and its islands. '['\w 
 night is perfect, lovely sunset and n.ooii. 
 and Me duly arrive at \'ictoria at ei<;ht 
 () clock. A\'c did not reeo^'uiij,. anv 
 Americans on hoard, and it has h,.cn a 
 niost eiijoyahlc sail. 
 
 ft must not he supposed from these 
 references to the old (;ouidry that we 
 were home-sick, hul the similarity was so 
 strildng- that we ccmld n(»t help (,ur 
 thoughts crossin- the (;,()()0 miles rollijiu- 
 between to the old familiar scenes at home! 
 At Vancouver made the ac(|uaintance 
 of three veiy a.^reeahle Ln-lishnicn who, 
 hke ourselves, were enjoyin^. ^ holida\- in 
 the new Avorld. They were with ns at 
 \ ictoria, as well as on the sail south to 
 San Francisco, and there wc weiv all in 
 the same hotel. They were very pleasajit 
 to travel and talk with, and" we were 
 very pleased to have their company. 
 They Averc hurryin- more than we were, 
 however, and we did n,,t meet a^'ain after 
 Icavini;' San Francisco. 
 
 Monday, 26th September— VICTORIA. 
 
 Victoria is a line little city. The str(M.ts 
 
 are well laid out, and ther J are some very 
 
 good shops and public buildings. IJesidJs 
 
 the Government buildings, which are very 
 
44 
 
 (•xti'iisiv'c, tilde is ;i I.ii'i^'c public Hhrai'v 
 .'IIkI iiilisiiiiii, ;i)i(l llic l.'ittci- (M»iit;iins ,'iil 
 I'XtriKirdiiiHvy collcctioii ul" slullctl hciists 
 ami liirds licl(iii;4'iii,u," to the colony, in 
 splciidiij jii'csei'Nation. hcsidis o'colo^'iral 
 s|it'ciiiiciis and ii ^Tcat many l.idian curios. 
 Hours ('(udd prolilalily )»(• spent here, 
 
 1 liel'C is so lllUell to itl)e)-est. 
 
 Ncai' N'icloi'ia tlievc is a n;i\;d slutioii 
 ( Ks(|iunialt ), where tliere are always soniu 
 \\-ai- sln'ps lyiiii;', and Avhei'e tiievc is a fort. 
 
 Tile li;ivl)oui' is tpiite la nd-!o(d<ct], an<l 
 couM aeconimo(l;ite a Very iar^'c licet. 
 In the 1'oreiiooii We look a. ti'ani car out 
 
 lo the place, iiud We dl'oVe thl'oUgll a 
 prelty jiiece of country. 
 
 Ms(pu'ni;dt itselt' is a siiiull villay,'e, with 
 1 he usual cidV's, vSc<-. 
 
 'Idierc are small lioats at the wharf, and 
 old s;dts are ready to transport people out 
 to the war shi[>s, W'e i^'ot ou hoard the 
 tor[>edo hoat •• Vira,i;'o.'" and had cvery- 
 thiui;' fully explained hy one of the uiau-o'- 
 wars-iueii. It seonis their business is to 
 th'scharL;'e tli< torjiedo and then run, because 
 their \-cssel, Ix'ini;' built of ;^-iu(di iron, 
 could not st-ind before a diRclmr,i;'e from 
 any si/,c of a. i^'un. Everythin<>,' was in 
 apple-pic ordci'. ;ind ship-sliape. (Is this 
 a mixed metaphor '1) 
 
 in the aftcriuiou called at the IJauk of 
 Montreal and one of our customer's stores 
 (Mr, Spcucer's), one of the liest in the 
 place. Spent some time also in the 
 luuseiuu. 
 
< 
 
 q: 
 O 
 
 o 
 > 
 
46 
 
 'I'lif snilill^• of stejiiiifv " I'lnatillM " is 
 iiiKHTtiiiii, as tlicy ni'c \vaitill^■ tor .s(»nu' 
 pns.scii^j^crs <■( lining- l»y a ('(»astiii^' stcainci' 
 tVniii New W'rstiiiilisti r. ( Wcrr toM 
 allcrwai'ds that tlic cdasliiin' stcaiiicr did 
 Hot arrive ladnrf wit lel't, and lliat alxaif 
 HO [)aHS(Mi^(M's well' sliort-sliippiMl. so that 
 if \vc had \vait(Ml (ill the Monday h( I'drc 
 (•omiiiij;" here wr wouhl have r(([Mircd to 
 wait livo days I'oi- the next steaimi' ^oijio- 
 
 KOUtll.) 
 
 (lot on l»oard at nine, l)nt did not sail 
 till L'h'Von, at \vhi(di tinn- it ^vas rainini;- 
 vci'v hard, and Idowini;' ('(aisidcrahly. 
 
 The sreaiiicr was yvvx (•r(»W(h'd. owiiii;', 
 it was said, to \\\v, near idosi; of clicai) 
 tares, and evory laudc was t'ldl, and a <>-uod 
 many had to sleep on the floor of the 
 saloon. 
 
 We were three ill a room, one above the 
 otlier, and the writer was on the top slxilf 
 (sneh a ,^'ettin^' up stairs), and the man oji 
 the first lloor was si(dc early in tlu; 
 morning". 
 
 During' the iii,i*,ht a j^ood deal of wind, 
 and a ^'reat many of the passengers siek. 
 
 Fine moonlight part of the night. 
 
 Tuesday, 27th September— S,S. "UMATILLA." 
 
 This morning sea not very pacilic — still 
 (diopiiy. A good l)ree/,e from the west. 
 Vessel pitching and rolling a good deal. 
 Not half the passengers tiu'iied up at 
 breakfast. Fiddles on the taltle, and great 
 
47 
 
 rnr.. reqiiinMl ,'„ imvijuatin- tli<. viands. 
 Motion ,.f vessel Very iiiieoiiitortal.le. 
 
 U'IikI Wilit .|(.wn tnWaniN eVelllllM-, ,,,„1 
 
 |'it<-l.in- i,„f so l.,,.l, I.Mf tlie n.Ilii.i.. 
 '•••ntiime.l. Nntliin- „[' iMferest pMssiniT 
 •••'h1 land seen only in the distance on tin- 
 port side. 
 
 Ht'autifid niod dif^ht nijrlif. 
 
 Wednesday, 28th September— ON THE PACIFIC. 
 I'fantilnl mornin--. Still senddinj'- alon^^ 
 tin- coast, and njoiv land .seen in the 
 diKtance. Lovely sua ami snn. .md 
 iiotl. in<;- l.ut the roll of the v(-ss(d to make 
 the .sail nncomf'oi-tahle. Most of the 
 passon^^ei-s an- now convalescent, hnt 
 some cmtinne sick: nnion^- them, one of 
 the three tViemls-Mr. Smith, from 
 LoTig'hl)oi'oni;h. 
 
 JIave not been at all trouhled personallv, 
 and always np to time when the gon'o- 
 .sounds. The fonr of ns sit at the same 
 table, and, a.s we are al)()iit the onlv 
 foreif/ners on hoard, we ,,re verv chummv. 
 The sea is like Huted -la.ss-a round«"d' 
 swell and no more. 
 
 Beautiful evening— fi,ie sunset and full 
 moon. 
 
 Thursday. 29th September-ON THE PACIFIC. 
 Another fine morning— there is more 
 wind. Imt it i.s from the north, and it does 
 not trouhle the ship. The coast on our 
 
48 
 
 port sido is now close ;it hand — l)ai-(' aiid 
 roclcv, and latlicr steep. 
 
 We enter tlie (iolden (iate ahont eleve-i, 
 and we are now in tlie liay. W'e ;ii-(. 
 hoarded hy the enstoni lioiise ojlicei's, and 
 i;'et ashore a1)ont twelve. 
 
 Tlie eiti/eiis ofrhis free and enli,i;hteued 
 (rountry hoast ahonf: their hettei' plan o^' 
 dealini;- with passe niters' hii;',i;'a^"e. hnt it 
 took two hours for ns to i;'et cleared and 
 free to i^{>, 
 
 And now ii'ood-hyc to the s.s. 
 •' I'lnutilla."' 
 
 (In no respeei could tlie s s. •• Umatilla " 
 he coini)are(l with the s.s. "Dominion." 
 We said hefori', " Like master like man," 
 and so we say a.i^'ain. The ship, the 
 olHcei's. the steward, and the tahle were 
 very far hehind, and the passengers, a 
 i^'ood many of them, were men retnrniiii;- 
 from the o'old fi(jlds in the north. These 
 few Words mean a i;'ood dt^'d.) 
 
 Our cousins A. and d. were Avaitini^' for 
 us. and each of us theu^'ht the other a 
 ^•ood deal chan<;(.Ml. Thev said thev 
 reco,t;'ni/,ed us 1>\ lilceiiess to father. .1. 
 had waite(| lor some time. hut. as we were 
 some hours late, he lia<l to ^'o. 
 
 Went all toi>-ether to the K'uss 1 louse and 
 had lunch, after which we took a car 
 (h-ive eut to the CJIill' House and Suti'a 
 Park. The former is a \;\V'^c hotel hnilt 
 of wood, on rocks at the ed,i>'e of tiie 
 ocean, and. as it seemed pei-ched up, we 
 thought it likelvit might he wasluMl awav 
 
49 
 
 or I»lo\vii down at aiiv time. It does not 
 look vei'V stal)le or stroiij^. 
 
 Sutra Parlv is a wondert'id })lace — the 
 <;'if't of a late citi/cii of San Francisco. 
 'J'lic i^rounds are heantit'uily laid out, and 
 thrn- is a ii'reat deal ot" statuiirv, both 
 ('lassie and ti,'ro1es(jU(', |)laee(l here and 
 there. There are haths of all kinds, and 
 ii;'alleries where visitors collect when there 
 arc swininiinii,- conijx'titions. There are 
 i^anies of e\-ery sort, hoth for youiiu,- and 
 old. Thc're is a museum of stuffed 
 hirds and animals, as well as hist^-ric 
 grou[)s of wax figures; and the cr!.:ature 
 comforts are not awantiuij:, so that anyone 
 can i;'() there and sj)end the whole dav, 
 and not he at all at a loss for the means of 
 enjoynieiit. As the season was over, the 
 place was almost deserted, hut at the rii;-ht 
 time of year it must l)e very i;'ay and 
 husy, and a i2,reat hoon to the citizens. 
 It is l;ir£i;(3ly taken ad\anta,i;'e of, and is 
 mu(,-h a[))»reciated. 
 
 Si)ent the evening at Golden (Jate 
 Avenue, and got to the hotel al)out 10.30. 
 
 Friday, 30th September— SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Went a1>oul the eitv with .1.. visitini>' 
 places of interest — among others, the Mint, 
 whi-re Avc were shown the various 
 processes of coining gold an<l silver, from 
 the melting of the metal until the coins 
 come out in a finished state. 
 P 
 
')0 
 
 It is n very cxtcDsivc <'st;i1»Iis]iiuciit. 
 iiud the i;ui<l(' told us tliey couM coin in 
 a day all the i^old [»i-(»duced in tlie wiu'ld 
 durin,i^", say, two or tlircc days. 
 
 Were in the room where dii^ji^'ers l»rini;' 
 tlicir .i^'old (hist. iHic. to l»e sold. It is left 
 till' one day, and they ii,'et tli<' valnc in 
 coin on the next. 
 
 Saw a man's talcing" })ut on the scales, 
 and were told it represent<'(l :i"),()()() 
 dollars — that was good. 
 
 On the other hand. thre(' men cani(; in 
 (aie day, and neither of" them had ciiuunh 
 to make an assay of itseli', and they 
 ji lined in one, and the whole was :2()(> 
 dollars, and this was the result of two 
 years' lahour. vSo there are Manks as 
 well as prizes. 
 
 Had our iirst view and visit to the hi,i;h 
 l>uihh*n,us. Went u}) one 17 storeys hi|i;-h — 
 the "('air' l)uildin<f — ami had our lunch 
 on the lath storev, 210 feet ahove ihe 
 pavement. 
 
 These elevated l)uildin,i!;s are A'cry 
 useful when one wants to have a look 
 arountl, and, as there is no restriction as to 
 who i;'oes up, we ofti'U used them in ihe 
 diil'ci-cnt cities we visited, hoth in Canada 
 and the States. 
 
 (Jailed on (recn'ge Steel, and. as we 
 pur[iose i^'oiui;' to Santa Jiarhara to- 
 nit;'ht, pi'ouiised to see him (Ui our 
 return. 
 
 licft at five p.ui. for Santa I'arhara. 
 
 This has heen a xcry line day. 
 V2 
 
-''': 3 3 3 3 3 
 "''' 3 3 3 3 3 
 
 I i 3 3 
 
 t's*?> 
 
 
 11^ !7 
 
 'CALL" BUILDING SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
52 
 
 Saturday, 1st October— ON THE TRAIN. 
 
 Tlie coimtry wc pass through dnrin}.^ 
 (layli<>-lit is iiniiitcrestiiii:,' in the higlicst 
 degree — saiulhills and plains — and the 
 ])t'()ple call it the (h'scrt. It is even more 
 desolaie tli;in the prairie — a few scrn])l)y 
 i)iislies, and an occasional shrub soniethinjji; 
 like a cactus; otherwise very ninch burnt 
 
 Had to wait five hours at a junction 
 called Saug'as, where there is literally 
 nothini>" to see. It is nicrelv a roadside 
 station, and the only comfort is that there 
 is a buffet, and there we find this useful. 
 Met a gentleman from IMiilailelphia, and 
 we pass the time agreeably enough. 
 
 The latter part of the journey the hxjk- 
 out is better — a good innny fruit trees, 
 and more vegetation. Part of the way 
 saw a good many oil wells, both up tiie 
 liillsides and quite on the margin of the 
 ocean. This seems to be a great business 
 hereabouts. 
 
 Left Saugas at 5.;i() p.m.. and arrived at 
 Santa Barbara at 8.iU) p.m., where Charlie 
 Grant was waiting Avith his buggy, 
 and, as his father is from home foi- a day 
 or two, he took us to his house. 
 
 This has been another fine day. 
 
 Sunday, 2nd October— SANTA BARBARA. 
 
 As Pastor (.irantis from home, the usiial 
 service was mtt held in the l^ai)tist ('hurch, 
 but, instead, a children's harvest service. 
 
53 
 
 a good (]eal of tho service l.cing the 
 repetition of texts of Scripture, sottiuo- 
 fortli (UkVs goodness in varions directions. 
 It is u nice little chapel, and the people 
 seem very interested, although they are 
 not very numerous. 
 
 In the afternoon had a drive with Elsie 
 round l)y the esplanade. cScc This is a 
 somewhat scattered town, and in scmie 
 respects looks quite foreign. There is one 
 good street, hut out of that there is not 
 nnich regularity. Expecte.l to find a finer 
 display of ilowers, c^c, l)ut the season is 
 too far on, and the people say they want 
 rain badly. 
 
 In the evening went to the Congre- 
 gational Church (as there was no nieering 
 hi the liaptist Church;, where there was a 
 fair attendance. 
 
 Came here intending to spend Sunday 
 and .Monday, hut, as Pastor C. won't be 
 lionie till .Monday jiight, must wait till he 
 comes. 
 
 After evening service were taken home 
 by Mr. P. (jrant, where we were put up 
 for the night. 
 
 lie has a nice house built of brick near 
 his brother's. He was also very kind, and 
 his wife and Miss Finch were very glatl to 
 see us. Mrs. P. Grant not nmeh changed. 
 
 'B'- 
 
 -^^ 
 
 Monday, 3rd October— SANTA BARBARA. 
 
 Had a small drive or two round and 
 about the city. 
 
54 
 
 Pustor (!. was diK' almiit six, and in tlic 
 afteriKKni wc <lrnV(' with Mr, I*, (f, a icw 
 miles aloiii^' the mad ihi' stai^'c shi)uld 
 cdiiH' in l>y. Spotted the ]»ast(ir on the 
 I'ront of tile eoaeh, l)Ut he did not know 
 who hailed him. and he was surprised 
 wln'n he learnt afterwards, lie had lieen 
 made aware of o)n' eoniinu', Itut diil not 
 know exactly when. He, his wife, and 
 elder danglituv were attending' a ehnreh 
 eoid'ereii('(- at a toAVJi some (')() miles n}) 
 the coast. 
 
 Took tea with Mr, P, <i.. ami ailjonrne<l 
 early to his hrother's. 
 
 A\'e had a lonii,' talk over home }>eople 
 and placH'S, and. Pastoi- (i, was \-ei'y 
 ])leased t<» have all the news, lie was 
 exceedini^ly glad to see ns, and we had a 
 Very wjirm reception. 
 
 This has heen a hright. hreezy <lay, 
 
 Tuesday, 4th October— SANTA BARBARA. 
 
 Went alxnit the city with Pastor <}.. 
 making calls. Went nji the hill behind 
 his house, where we had a view of his 
 fruit ranche. 'i'he hillsi(h'S ai'e very l)are. 
 lie savs thev are much in want of rain, 
 and that they have Jiot had their usual I'all 
 for the last three years. 
 
 At home in the evening: had some 
 music, and called on ^Fr. P, (.1. to hid him 
 ami his family good-hyc. The });istor 
 could Scarcely get his thirst h)r news 
 (pienched. (\ an<l his wit"e called. 
 
 This has heen another fine da v. 
 
55 
 
 Wednesday, 5th October— oN THE TRAIN. 
 
 Left Santa Harhara at HA.') a.m.. Pastor 
 
 G. Hvc\u<x us oir. and we had a g I many 
 
 •• last words." lU'tnrncd to San Franci.sco 
 l>y tlic sanMi I'oute as we came. 
 
 At Saiig-as had oul/j two and a-half 
 hours to wait this time, lait we had it 
 very liot— <•" in the shade— and we mis.sed 
 tlic company of tlic -vntloman from 
 IMiiladeljihia. 
 
 This lias Ix'en a warm day tliroiijL>-hout. 
 and very (histy in tlic train. 
 
 Thursday, 6th October— SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Arrived at San Francisco S.4a a.m. Since 
 (hi_vh',t;'ht the country Jias sliewn up rather 
 hetter — g-ood farms and more ve,i;vtation. 
 
 Calh'd on a. S., and we took car out to 
 the ^-Pisidia," which is a Government park 
 where tliere arc extensive barracks ajid 
 olHcer.s' quarters. P)esides these, ther<' arc 
 just now a -Teat many volunteers unih-r 
 canvas, and the swa,i>-,i;'er nu)St of tliem had 
 IX <iuite eharacteri.stic of the people 
 ,i;'enerally. Many of them are very youn.i;' 
 men. 
 
 Spent the eveninn- at 1^014 Golden 
 Gate Avenue, where all the friends were 
 asseml)led. 'J'o the hotel alM)ut 1 ().;)(). 
 
 Another tine day. 
 
 San Francisco is a, husy, active citv, 
 everyone on the alert, hut the character 
 for straight dealing- is not strong with some 
 of the peoj)le. The streets are verv hillv, 
 
anil tlic cars arc di'awii i)_v <'(if>l,'. There 
 arc a ^rcat many fine Imildiiim's in ilic 
 business portion ot' tlie city, Imt the 
 residences, outside ot" tliat, arc mostly bnilt 
 of wood. The policemen an- tpiite a 
 t'eutiirc — mostly spk'iidid men. with Mnc 
 snrtt)uts and Avhite ii;-loves, and on their 
 breasts, silver star badges. They seem 
 very numerous. 
 
 Tile streets are well kept, and even tlu' 
 S(;avenger8 have a sort of uuiforn). 
 
 Friday, 7th October— ON THE TRAIN. 
 
 Fieft San I'^rancisco at cig'ht a.m . 
 aeeompaniod by the cousins, wlio went 
 Avith us an honr on the wiiy. 
 
 We j)ass Saciamento. and shoi'tly after 
 the line ascends a good deal. There is 
 hill and valley, and all the hill slojies are 
 covered Avith small fruit trees, the cohmrs 
 of which are beantiful. from green to 
 yellow, crimson, and scarlet. Newcastle, 
 a fruit centre, we reach at l.-'U), and there 
 (juite a lot of fruit is put on the train. 
 
 There are numerous merchants, also, at 
 the static]), j)nshing their wares of the 
 same sort, and there are a good many 
 jjurchasens among tlu' passengers. 
 
 We roll along till l).30, and have got to 
 a good height, having rounded "Cape 
 Horn," Avhen we are stopped. There is ii 
 block on the line ahead of us, and, as the 
 line is single, Vv-^e canm)t proceed. We are 
 backed down to a station, "Colfax," 
 
D< 
 
 Jl.lll. — 
 
 wliciv wc" liavc to ivinaiii till ].;]()„ 
 ten |„,„i-s_aiul, MS tli.Tc is cnlv ;i vcrv 
 ii'i'.Ticr iMifTft, tliL' situation is 'tin- fn. li, 
 coiiifortaltlo 
 
 Saturday, 8th October-ON THE TRAIN. 
 
 Fi'oiii (lavlio.Iit „„ XV,, i,,.ivo b.M.„ 
 
 passi.i- ihrou-li a ,|,.sc.i.f __,p,ite .., ,.,.i,trast 
 
 ^> wliat we ],a,l ycstcT.lay morniim. 
 
 ^e^y (losoiatc and dusty: n..tlu"n- to 
 
 ivli.'vc tlu- ,.y,. |,„t .UU-" or tsv,, ,si„all 
 
 vdla,i;'es, and an occasional -rccn iidd. 
 
 As (lay]io.]it closes, a lew ranches with' 
 
 cattle. 
 
 On account of the delay, did not ivach 
 Og-den till three a.m. on Hth, instead of 
 five p.m. on the ,sth— ten hours late. 
 Dull day — not nnich sunshine. 
 
 Sunday, 9th October— SALT LAKE CITY. 
 Arrive.l at Salt Lake City at nine a.m. 
 to-day, instead of seven p.m. on Saturday. 
 Th..^ Mormons had heen holdin- 'a 
 conference durin- the previous weekrand 
 there were a ,i;Teat many stran-vi's in the 
 citv. 
 
 t. 
 
 Went to the tal.ernacle in the forenoon. 
 where there was an immense assemhla-e. 
 They say the house holds ir),OU(), hut that 
 is surely an exa,i>-o'eration. 
 
 There was some vi--orous speakin- 
 and the acoustics of the huildino- seem to 
 be very i>-,,„d. as one could hear quite well 
 at the end furthest from the platform. It 
 
58 
 
 is li^lilcd ;ilt<i^'('tli('i' tVoiii iiiidcr tIk; 
 ^iillcrics, iiK tlicic arc no windowK in tlto 
 root', -svliifli is uiiUrokcii, iunl in shajtc like 
 a K('(;ti<»M of, 'in inniiL'Mso c*;'!;'. 'I'lici'c ai'c 
 iiniiicroiis t'xits in the lowor jxu-tion, and 
 they Hiiy tlic Ituildiii,^' can 1)0 emptied in 
 a icw niiniite.s. Went a,i;ain in the 
 at'ternooii, \v])en oIlieiM's of the elnireh 
 were beiliiH" elected. 
 
 Tile [)eo|>h' were di\ided into six or 
 eiii'lit Kections. accordini!' to their i;'i'ades 
 in tlie cliurch. and at every nomination 
 tiie \()te was ]mt to section after section, 
 ami eacli in turn stood ii]) and erected the 
 viii'lit liand. Any who opposed were 
 asked to ••manifest" the same. I>ut the 
 op))ositioii was feeltle. and the ]>resideiit 
 said to one or two wilo iuid the coUl'ai;'e 
 to oppose, that they wouhl Ite seen after- 
 wards, and matters would he explained. 
 
 The whole proceedings were, in o))e 
 Sense, \ery interesting, and took up a 
 great deal of time. 
 
 Tlie people were wry enthusiastic, liut 
 oiitsidi-rs sav thev are not increasinu'. and 
 tliat many of tlie young peo}>lu are 
 hreaking away and are marrying Avith tlie 
 Gentiles. 
 
 15,000 seems t(» he too high an estimate 
 of the capacity of the huilding, as the 
 papers next day said ••the place was 
 crowded, and that there were ahout •,),0()0 
 present" — hut that may have been an 
 Anti-Mormon paper. 
 
 it certainly is a wvy large place, and it 
 
.)i» 
 
 have liccii tlniv. 
 
 IJ^'si.les tlu, talM.n,a,.|,., fh.,,v is fl... 
 tfM.pK., wl.ich is wIm.Uv ,,,,..1 In,- .•Inuvi, 
 '"■•'"'-■•"^'•••S ■•ill. I wlius.. i|n,.r ,,. (;,,,tilc. 
 t"-t IS allonv.l ,., ,|,,,i|,, 'p, „.,.,, ;^ .^,^^^ 
 
 '•'".•.sscMl.Iyliall, wIhto tlM-v hnl.l smaller 
 iiK.'ctiiiq'N. 
 
 I" til.' .•vciin- uuif to tl„. |!.,p,ist 
 <^'n..vl,, wh,,,. th.. ,n....lin.- ^vas v,.,v 
 •'^"lall, and .,.iit.. a (■..ntrast t.. tli.. ctli.T. ' 
 
 Ha.I a f..w w..n|s with tl... paster, ami 
 •"•■M.m. a.^ain .,u tl... c-ar on Mon.lav an.l 
 wc jiad soni,. further talk. 
 This has heen a .i^oo.l da v. 
 
 Monday, lOth October-SALT LAKE CITY. 
 Took a drive or tuo i,, the cars ronnd 
 •■^"'* •'^"•ii^ th,. ciry.and. aft,.r l„n..h, took 
 
 tnnn lor Salt Lake. \\. passed thn. h 
 
 H iviiitful farnnno. district, luit th.. sl„,ns'"^.f 
 
 thclakearellat, with hills in the, listance 
 "'<■ l.'ik,- is ahoi.t 1)0 niih.s lono. an,I 4:> 
 '"■"'■"'• "'"1 H.ere are nunuTous islan,|s 
 «<'>i,eofth,.nirath,'rhio.h. A st,.|,nM.r sails* 
 "" th,. lak,. in the season, hut if is at 
 present lai,l uj.. The water is verv salt 
 and Its ,lensity is -..ea.ter than that "ofth," 
 'Jead Sea. It is run into pools an.l th..n 
 eyap,..rate,ll.y th,. sun, an.l various kin.ls 
 "f .sdtsare,.xtra,.t..,l. Th,. wat,.r is v,.rv 
 ••iya|-, an.l, at th,. pavili.m. not at all ,l,.,.p. 
 ll'<' I'avih.ni is an innnens,. ore,.ti,.n of 
 iron an,I wood, an,l in it there is ,.v,.rv 
 
60 
 
 (•iiiivciiliiicc for l)atliiii<;', ciitiii;;'. (In'iikiii;;", 
 and <'iijoviii('iit in i;'(iicriil. In tiio scjisoti 
 there is il n'ood (leiil ol" ,i;aietv, iis the Salt 
 I^ake City |ie(i]t|(' are not all s|i(.'cialiy 
 staid. When we were th<'re thi^ halls 
 were all deserted, the only visitors heini"" 
 the ;')(» ipj' so who Went down Ky train, 
 (iot, hack 1o the I'itv in tlir afternoon. 
 
 1 
 
 «j 
 
 
 
 ';'*«- .H!!^*' 
 
 ■*- ■ - :. ST . 
 
 SALT LAKE THE PAVILION. 
 
 'I'lie city itself is a \n\^\\ stirring;' |ila<'e, 
 and t heri' ai'e soiiie i^'ood l»nildill.^■s. The 
 Mocks are re<;'iilarly laitl out. and the 
 streets are all ninnhered — l-'irst Street, 
 Second Street, c'^cc, Noilh, South, East, or 
 West. The centre of all is the temple, and 
 the nuinliers of the streets are re('ko]ie(l 
 from their positioJis in relation to it. 
 
 Left Salt Lake City 7.30 p.m. for 
 Colorado Spring's. 
 
 Another line day. 
 
01 
 
 Tuesday, llth October— ON THE TRAIN. 
 
 Arrived (Jnlorjulo Spriii.^'s scncii p. hi. 
 Passed tlirdii^li sniiic \-ei'v wild. imcUv 
 sociien-. At niic [ijirt the line is at ail 
 tdevatidll til' uver lO.OOO I'eet (TeiilieSMee 
 Pass), and we lia\c iiiaiiv lips and downs. 
 We step at l-eadville. a ^',<)ld niiniijii' city 
 lU.OOO feet Up the iiieiintain. where we 
 havi' hiiieli, and hiter we jtass throniih 
 some iyai;'nili('ont <^or;j,H.'s or canyons, whei'e 
 the rock scenery is unspejikal>Iy ^rand. 
 
 ROYAL GORGE. 
 
62 
 
 The last ,i^<»i-j;'(' especially, the " l^)yal." 
 is \'ej-v wild. aii<l th<' passerii^'ers wciv^ 
 crowdiid at the rear end of the train to 
 
 o-et the lull helielit of the hxik-ollt. As it 
 was ap))roaehiii,i;' stiiiset. the h^L;'ht and 
 sliade on the roeks and ni<iuntains wei-e 
 exquisite. The rocks nil l)oth sides oi" the 
 track ai'e ))r(M'ijiit()Us, and we ran in and 
 out aiiioni;' the j)reci{)iees ah»i)i;- the l>()ttoiM 
 of the <;'or,u'e by the side of iIk; river. 
 Tin's has heen a ride never to l»e foru'otleii. 
 Lovely weather. 
 
 Wednesday, 12th October— COLORADO SPRINGS. 
 
 Took train uj) Pike's Peak', a mountain 
 (dose hy. 14,1 !7 feet ai)ove thi' sea. hut, as 
 the eonntry ht^re has an eh'vation o!' aheut 
 (),0()() feet, had to ascend S.OuO I'eet only. 
 
 The railway is ahout ei_i;'ht iiiih'S h)n<;', 
 and is huilt on tlie " eoi;- wheel" priucijile. 
 On askin.i;' the man in ehiu'^c if he insured 
 our lives, he said no. \ve went at our nwii 
 risk, but he could ahiiost uiiarantee a safe 
 journey. The en>^ine pnslies the carriaj^'e 
 up, and it "peehs" a ^^'eod deaf In 
 deeeiidini;- it jireeedes the ('arria^;,-e. < )n 
 the top there is a re^Veshment-rodm. and. 
 of course, the usnal curiosity shoj). Had a 
 very line and extensive; \iew. as the day 
 was cleai'. Speut an hour on the toj). ami 
 iI,'ot hack to the h)Wer level about one 
 o'clock. On the train made the 
 
 aC([Uaiiitauee df Mr. Provatid, M.P.. and, 
 aftei' descending;', we hired a team and took 
 a drive round seme of the placi'S n[ 
 
intci'cKt — aiiioiii;' otlu-rs ••Tla' (jardcii *<[' 
 tile (jods" — cxtciisivc natural rocky 
 district, where tlie rocks have assumed 
 fantastic slia|ies of huiiiMn l»eiiii;'.s, iinimals, 
 hirds, iS:c., which the (h'i\-er is not slow to 
 call attention to. A lively imai^'iiiation 
 helps one to se'c the ohjects he names. 
 
 \'arious kinds of rocks ahound in the 
 district, some of which are allected hy the 
 Weather nn»re than otheis — henci' the 
 ])ecnliarity. Knjoyed the (h'ivi' very much, 
 and ^'ot hack in time for (h'nner. 
 
 In this neii;"ld)oin'hoo(l there are a 
 variety of mineral wells. whi(di ai'e ( f 
 value medicinally, and one of them is 
 enclosed 1 )y extensive Woi'lcs. the 
 ]iro|)rietors of which <lo a large husiness. 
 
 Another fine da\'. 
 
 PIKE'S PEAK COLORADO SPRINGS. 
 
64 
 
 Thursday, I3th October -DENVER. 
 
 , L(^ft ('oloivido Si)riii,o;s at (i.ao a.m., 
 ai-n'viiio-at Denver atiiiiic— t\V(. and a-half 
 hours' jounicv, Tlicre ha. I ])een a 
 spriiikliM,i;- of snoAV early in tlie niorin"n,i;-, 
 and tlie ,^•r.mlld is white with that and 
 Jioar frost. 
 
 Took one (»r two drives on the ears, and 
 saw a i^-ood (h-al of the city and 
 surroundings. The city spreads a hxio- 
 way out on all sides, and great ]>art of the 
 outlying districts ai-e still unbuilt upon, hut 
 provision has heeu made for growth, which, 
 in these American cities, is often ra}»id. 
 
 The city itself is go-ahead like the rest. 
 The streets are Avell laid out, and there 
 are some very large retail stores, which 
 are elegant l)uildings. .Many of these 
 stores keep the electric light burning late 
 into the night, and some of them nro out- 
 lined and festooned with it on each Hat, 
 and the elfect is good. 
 
 Wooden lauldings are here a])seiit. and 
 the prevailing ni;iterial in the residential 
 })ortion is bi'ick. 
 
 Looking down from the tower of the 
 (ya})itol. the view is very pleasing, '{'he 
 <apitol is sin-rounded by beautifully kept 
 lawns. There are a great number of trees 
 in the streets, and these l)leii(l har- 
 moniously Avith the r<(l brick of the 
 houses, and form a lovely picture. 
 '• Every prospect pleases." 
 
 Cars are partly cable and ])artly electric. 
 Aiiother delightful (hiv. 
 
(')') 
 
 A geiitleinaii from Salt Lake goes to 
 Omaha to-iiiglit, and promises to secure 
 us a room in tlie Paxton Hotel there. 
 
 ♦;v«. 
 
 Friday, Hth October— ON TRAIN. 
 Left Denver at \K'M) a.m.— a beautiful 
 
 morning. 
 
 As long as daylight lasted till alnrnt 
 ,').;)(), ^ve ran through jjvairie land— a very 
 Hat eoutitrv, and hare— no trees to be seen. 
 Towards the end of the day there were 
 several cattle ranches and some vegetation. 
 
 Reached Omaha 2.80 a.m. on Saturday, 
 and, on account of the exhibition, the city 
 is very full, ('ould not get a bedroom, 
 and had to slee[) on a couch in the hall. 
 The hotel peoi)le said no room had been 
 engaged, although the gentleman referred 
 to sai<l he had engaged one. 
 
 Another tine day. 
 
 Saturday, ISth October— OMAHA. 
 
 Met a tbrmer fellow-traveller in the 
 hotel (Mr. Pearson from Salt Lake), and 
 we took a run through the city— up some 
 of the high and prhicipal buildings, and 
 had a good view of the neighbourhood. 
 This seems a goo(l Itusiness city, })o}>ulation 
 about 200,000, and it has some good 
 streets and large retail stores. The streets 
 were speciaTy busy owing to the crowds 
 who are here to see the exhibition. 
 
 In the afternoon went to the exhibition 
 
ci; 
 
 — tlic usual sliow. but, its tho war fever is 
 still oil, the (lispbiy of military iUi<l naval 
 cxliiliits 1)\' tlu! (idvermiicnt is lari^'c, and 
 tlioy attract fi,ioat attention. 
 
 '' Reincuibcr the Maine" Avas printed up 
 ill larfi,e eliaraeters. 
 
 The building's are very fine and 
 extensive — artiiicial lake with boats — and 
 at niii,ht the eleetrie illuminations are very 
 strikinj;' and eti'cetive. 
 
 'I'he city also, at nig'lit, is bright with 
 the eleetrie light, and many of the ,>tores 
 ma Ice a good show. 
 
 Another tine dav. 
 
 Sunday, I6th October— OMAHA. 
 
 Very wet and windy, (^ould not go 
 out in the early [lart of the day. In the 
 afternoon took a short turn along with 
 ViV. V. (tlie friend from ^^alt Lake (Jity 
 before iiientione<l). and in the evening, 
 when \v(.' ,starte(l for (Jhicago, he 
 aeconipanied us to the train aiul saw us off. 
 
 Nothing special to nott^ by the way. 
 Tow.ards the end of the journey, some 
 good fai'ins and cattle ranches. 
 
 'J'here is to be what they call a peace 
 jubilee procession at ('liicago. and. on 
 nearing that city, such great crowds of 
 people ji>iii the train that they cannot all 
 et st'ats. The ['resident is ti» be in the 
 pvoeessieMi. and he ap|>ears to be veiy 
 popular. 
 
 lleavv rain all the wav through — almost 
 the first rain since leaving Montreal. 
 K-2 
 
 )-> 
 
(w 
 
 Monday, 17th October— CHICAGO. 
 
 Avrivt'd at ChiuiiiL;-() \K'20 a.m. — :.in hour 
 late. .). M*ri. waitini;'. J.ct't hii;',L>,-ag'<; at 
 the station, and went to liis otHcH-. Went 
 about the city in j^'i'cat (hsc-onit'ort in wind 
 and rain. 
 
 Very liusy city. Streets narrow and 
 dirty. Was not tavoui'ably impressed. 
 Perhaps the hi,i;'h building's iielp to make 
 the streets h)ok narrower. 
 
 .1. .M'(!. Hves in Kvanston, a suburb 
 some miles out, aud we weut there later 
 (jn. Were well received by all, including" 
 the children. 
 
 Most disagreeable day. 
 
 Tuesday, 18th October— CHICAGO. 
 
 Still wet. but not so windy. 
 
 Great [)re[iaratious for the procession 
 to-morrow. 
 
 l)nrin,^' the nit;'ht some of the triumphal 
 arches had been blown down, and a few 
 people hurt. 
 
 Went alniut the city. Ascended some ol" 
 the hio'li buihhiiLi'S, and made a few calls. 
 
 Arranged for our de[)arture for 
 Washington to-morrow afternoon. 
 
 Home about seven. 
 
 Another disagreeable day. 
 
 --w" — 
 Wednesday, 19th October— CHICAGO. 
 Great crowds to view the procession. 
 Miles of stands, and windows evervwhere 
 occupie(b 
 
68 
 
 Fortnnatrly, the rain ('casc'd (hiriiifj;- tlio 
 time of tlie procession. The President kept 
 on l)owin^' all the time, and many of tiic 
 naval and militarv heroes W(;re cheered to 
 the echo, but it did not strike ns as l)ein,i>" 
 specially attractive — a mixture of militaiy 
 and civilian — Init the crowd was 
 enthusiastic. 
 
 The streets were verv nmddv. and it 
 could not be pleasan . for those on foot. 
 
 The procession lasted al)out two hours, 
 and we had a good view of it. 
 
 Left at three p.m. for Washing-ton. 
 
 Evansto]!, wher<' J. ^I'(i. lives, is a few 
 miles out, and is a separate municij)ality. 
 It has some good houses, and is well laid 
 out, and planted copiously with trees. 
 lie has a !>-ood house and a nice fa)nilv. 
 
 !-> 
 
 Thursday, 20th October— ON THE TRAIN. 
 
 Not nuu'h to interest during the 
 afternoon of Wednesihiv. 
 
 Thursday morning at daylight l)rought 
 us to Pittsburg. A dull morning, some- 
 thing like November at home. There 
 must be a good many iron works here- 
 abouts, as the atmosphere is so smoky. 
 The day improved as we went along, and 
 ultinuitely it was like a dav in Julv. 
 
 We passed through a beautiful country, 
 more homedike than any wo had seen 
 before — hill and daK; — wood and water. 
 
 There is scarcely any colour on the trees 
 yet, except on nearing Baltimore, as the 
 
C^9 
 
 Niin went (low.., .some of lli.-ni sI.ow.mI 
 VM.-ied tii.ts. TIiiTo l.as boon no frost yet 
 to affect them, and most of tliem liavo 
 •still tl.e fivsh green of summer. We 
 passed thron-h some good-sized cities— 
 nniono- otl.ers, Harrisburgh, which is the 
 capital of the state, and lies on tlu, 
 Sus(niehanna, which is hero a very wide 
 and large river. 
 
 Arrived at Washington on tinie, 
 7.1d i).m. 
 
 A fine day tlironghont. 
 
 Friday, 2Ist October-WASHINGTON. 
 Very wet n.orning. Went about in 
 great discomfort visiting places of interest, 
 tailed on Mr. C. to whom we had a letter 
 of introduction. He was verv glad to 
 hear from his old friend J. M'A., and he 
 showed us great attention. 
 
 We went through the White House, but 
 <li<l not see the President, as he is at 
 present o.. tour, but we were in the 
 reception room, and had his manner of 
 fe^ivmg audiences explained. We visited 
 the Ireasury, the State Secretaries' 
 apartments, and everywhere there are 
 ope.i doors, and a great many people 
 going to and Jro. We w^ent to the 
 Capitol and saw the chamber where the 
 (xovernment sits. There are some 
 wonderful echoes in the old chamber, 
 and these were fully expressed by the 
 gnide. Ihe paintings and frescoes are 
 
70 
 
 boMiitit'iil, and wliat witli iiiiirl)l(' stairs 
 and broii/c doors, there is no end of 
 .si.i^'lits to sec, and mudi timt' could l)u 
 .spent in the hnihlin-'. Of course, as in all 
 American cities, heiv the ahni-hty dollnr 
 is ever to the tVont, and the description of 
 everv article of Leauty was accompanied 
 by the numhe'r of years occupied in its 
 execution, and the cost in dollais, l.ut these 
 la<'ts \ver<' not interesting'. We xisit-'d the 
 l»ul.]ii'lilirary. which is a new bnildin,-'. and 
 in which tlie m;irl)le stair and hall are verv 
 ma,<;'nilicent. Jleiv we had m. -iiide. and, 
 consequently, wei'c not ' )red. 
 
 Thureisa o-i-eatdeal toscu'in thiscity,and 
 many days could he spent ovei' the sights. 
 
 It is a fine city — in fact, the finest we 
 ]ia\-e visited. No overhead wires allowed, 
 and the cai-s are drawji by c;il)le. The 
 streets are wide, and there are a ,L!,-reat 
 many trees in them, and the bnihlin^'s. 
 
 both public and ))rivate, are veiy good 
 
 mostly stone or 1 trick'. 
 
 hined and sj)ent the eve]iing with 
 Mr. (J. and his family, who are verv 
 agreeable people. Had some music, and 
 passed a pleasant time. 
 
 Hotel about ten. 
 
 Rain, rain, all day. 
 
 Saturday, 22nd October— WASHINGTON. 
 
 Quite a change in the weather— line 
 l)right morning. 
 
 Made the ascent of the monument. It 
 is altogether ,553 feet high, and visitors 
 
o 
 
 Q. 
 < 
 
 o 
 
 Ui 
 
 I 
 
 I- 
 
 I 
 
 z 
 o 
 I- 
 o 
 z 
 
 X 
 CO 
 
 < 
 5 
 
72 
 
 arc landed ")()() fuot above tlio ^roniul. It 
 In built of wliitu niJirl)l(' from Mai'ylaiid, 
 and ill the fiiinsliino it glistens beautilully. 
 All elevator takes up 'AO peoi)lu at a 
 time, and the service is every iialf'hoiir — 
 O.aO till 4.80. There is also a wide 
 stair built round the elevator, consistin,i;' 
 ot" 1M)() ste])s, and on the internal walls 
 are many memorial tablets, all in 
 conneetion M'itii Washington's career, and 
 gifted by ditfereiit cities and states. We 
 went U}) by the elevator (Avhieh took 
 eight and a-half mimttes to ascend the ")(•(.' 
 feet), and we walked doAvn the ttOO ste}»s. 
 The interior is lighted by eleetric.'itv. and 
 on walking down a good view of the 
 memorifd stones is obtained. At the top 
 there are openings on each side, and a 
 ti'ood view of the citv can be had in all 
 dir>:!ctions. 
 
 The city from this elevation looks 
 beautiful. The many fine buildings, and 
 the quantity of green, both trees and 
 sward, form a fine picture, and the Potomac 
 River running beloAV adds beauty to the 
 scene. 
 
 There is a good deal of niarsii by the 
 river side, and the city may not be healthy 
 in very warm weather. 
 
 Left for Philadelphia at 12.45 p.m., 
 arriving at o.30. 
 
 Passed Baltimore on the Ava^', but did 
 not stop ofl'. 
 
 liode through a good farm country, 
 and bad glimpses by the way of 
 
73 
 
 Clu'sapcjikc \\;\y ;iii(l D.lawaiv Way. the 
 fonnor bcin,!-; the cliamiol for IiiiltinicrL' 
 and tho latter for Pliiladclpliia. 
 
 Found tlie chief streets wliollv oivcti 
 ovei- to the carjionters, win. are hiisv 
 erecting- Ktaiids from wliieh to view the 
 jul)ih'e i)rocc'Ssioii to he held liere a da.v 
 or two lieiice. Xo expenses is heino- 
 spared, and what witli extra eh'ctric 
 li.i^htino' and triumphal arches, c^e., huilt of 
 Avo(jd and stucco, it must he consideralilc. 
 Went up a lo storey huildin-^', ;,nd iiad a 
 look around. Market Street and P.road 
 Street are wide, but many of the others 
 are na)'row, and, on account (»f the comin<>- 
 event and the excitement, the city is very 
 busy. 
 
 The pul)lie buildings are very j^^-ood, and 
 the railway stations are ma,i;'nificent — 
 nothini;- like them in our counti-\-. 
 
 This has been a line da\-. 
 
 Sunday, 23rd October— PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 In the morning- found out Shiloh 
 Ba])tist Church (coloured), Pastor Dr 
 Phillips. 
 
 Interesting service, much as at home. 
 The people were of all shades, but all 
 more or less coloured. Tluy sc<'m to 
 carry on all the usual departments of 
 Av*)rk, and the intiniaticjns read included 
 all the branches. The choir and organist 
 are also coloiu-ed, and they did their work 
 Very well. 
 
74 
 
 riic pU'Mclur tor the clay wjis u line 
 Htiilwiivt s[)('('iin<'ii of II negro, uiid ho 
 [)i<a('ht'(l ;i ^'ood soriiioii from Jer. 20, It. 
 
 Ill the iif'teriKxtii visited tlio seliools 
 earned on .-it liethany Hall by Mv. 
 Waniieiiiuker, and the attendance was 
 luri;'(i and interested. 
 
 There are some 2,900 on tlie roll. They 
 meet for the openini;' sorvieiiK in the hall, 
 and the classes then retire to their 
 dillerent rooms. Mr. \V. has his own class 
 in the chapel, and then; mi^'ht he SOO 
 to 1,000 |)e<)]ile present. The lesson 
 for the day was Isaiah ]•). 
 
 AN'alked to these places ihi'on^'h 
 localities which nii,i;lit he called " middle 
 tdass," and was impressed with the 
 cleanness of even the bye streets. Many 
 of the smaller honses have whit(> marble 
 steals, and the hjwer [lortion of the wall, 
 n[) to the first window-sill, is of the sann; 
 material. It seems to be a well-ke[)t 
 city. 
 
 Walked through the city in the evening, 
 viewing the jubilee stands and the electric 
 lighting. 
 
 Another tine da v. 
 
 Monday, 24th October— NEW YORK. 
 
 Left Philadelphia at 10.;»0, and, after 
 a pleasant run, reached New York at 
 one p.m. 
 
 The country through which we passed 
 was very level, but well cultivated. A 
 
7.5 
 
 fyw ..f tllc trees ;ire MOW showiiiu. jMltliniJi 
 liiils, liiit this is iii)t •^•.•iienil. 
 
 Appn.aehed New V.ulv Kv il,,. ,iv,.r 
 <'""linnve.l;,f the .l-.^nf ,,„ fwenf v-tliinj 
 Stiv,.f. Were striiek l.v tlic nuiiilM.r ..I 
 
 In^h Sr|,MrMte lMli|.|i„u.s, |n,,|<i„o. IJK,. ,^,, 
 "laiiy I)U]»l)er-l)(,XeKst;in(|iM- up. 
 
 Were ••Hlvise.l t.. -;,, t,, Siiiehiir House. 
 •'•"••"•'• <"'■ Ki.ulilh Sfre.-t an. I Hn.a.lw.-.y, 
 '""' ''"""' <"ir wav there, and were verv 
 comforfjihle. 
 
 So.i-hf .1. M-(;. at his htisiness ad.h-css. 
 ••'lid We h)()ked into seine ot'tlie lii^l, and 
 lar«;c hnildiiiu'H. 
 
 Streets very I)nsy, and the people very 
 Motive and -o-ahead. iiroadway is no't 
 the P.roadway we expeetod— it is mirrow, 
 and not hcaiitifni. 
 
 '''Ik'I-'' is an imniensu trallie, and tlu; 
 '•ars (cal)le) aj.pear sometimes as if ihry 
 were end to end. 
 
 In the oveiiin- went to J. M'(;.'s honse, 
 and .i^'ot hack to the city ahout l().;i(). 
 Another line dav. 
 
 Tuesday, 25th October— new YORK. 
 
 'i^'ok u run or two hy car to (h'/Ferc-nt 
 parts (,f th<M-ity, and -ot .s..mo idea a,s to 
 its innneiisitv. 
 
 Had. I. M'(i. an. I his wife to luiieh, and 
 we then visite.l the Stock ExcJuuioe (where 
 ironi t]i(. .i^ahery a good view is'Ohtaine.l 
 ot tJi,. excitement beh.w;, tlio Produce 
 l^^xchaii^e, an.l otlier l.usincss places. 
 

 I'!\ci"y\vliirc. cNciyoiic very ^vi(lt' 
 ;i\v;ikc. Ill till' I'V.'llilli;' WrliT .til ti "i^'i 't lid" 
 1(1 visit 11. M"<i.. :i cnllsiii ol' ,1. M'fr.'s. 
 
 IK' livrs SDiiii' (JistjitK'i' (lilt. .'i;i(1 we went 
 li\- tli<' iivcrliciiil riiilway 'wliidi. liy the 
 \\;i\. is \cry nnsii;-lii ly. ;iinl iimst have a 
 (lc|U'c('iatiiiL;' rl]\r\ ini the luisiiicss |)la('C's 
 and 111 msi's |)as1 wliii'h t lie lines niii ), s|Hn( 
 a pleasant evciiin^', ami ii'nt liack to hotel 
 in time j'tii- heil. 
 
 A line (la\'. l>iit diiil in the al'ternoon. 
 
 Wednesday, 20th October -NEW YORK. 
 
 Ilail ari'an-'ed to meet (J. 1 >.. Imt could 
 not u,'(i (lilt in the nidrnini;' t'oi" tlie rain. 
 
 Went down tnwii in t he atteniooii. and 
 visiled one n)' twn lnisiiiess places. Were 
 shown o\er one nl' the lari^-e 'JV'lei^'ra[)li 
 ('omj>any"s <illiees. and had everything;' 
 explained. 
 
 ,\n active. Inisy hive, and no room tor 
 idlers. 
 
 (1. 1 >. li\ IS some miles (lilt, and we went 
 oiit there and spiiit the eN-eiiin.u,'. Left at 
 Icii : LV't to the hot'' aliout eleven. 
 Oislances \ery -reat. 
 
 The ears and oNcrhead railway here iire 
 ninnin,:;' all iii^lit. 
 
 \\ hell one el' the et indlK't i H'S was asked 
 
 ;is to this, he said. "'New ^'ork never 
 
 sk'eps. 
 
 In spite of the rain the eity has heeii 
 ver\ liiisv. Imt sireets et and iincomrort- 
 able. 
 
o 
 
 > 
 
 LiJ 
 
 z 
 
78 
 
 Thursday, 27th October— NEW YORK. 
 
 Weatlier (•han_t;-(Ml tur the better. 
 
 (r, D. culled and we took a run i-oiiiid 
 80Uie (if the Imsiliess phices — aiiioiim" 
 (ithers, Tiffatiy's, said to !»'' the first store 
 in the worhl tor ;L;-eiii.s and articles oi' vertu. 
 They eertaiiily have a verv lari;e and fine 
 (.•ollectioii. but one would require to be a 
 millionaire before he could do mufli there 
 in the \v;ty of bnyiui;". 
 
 Dianioiids 100.000 dollars, or £20,000 
 I'ach — china plates 200 dolhirs, or £40 
 each — tliese are some of the thiui^'S we 
 saw and handled. 
 
 We Went by elexated raihvay to the 
 Xorth-West limit (»f the city, past the 
 (Central Park, and visited the tomb of 
 (xenoral Grant. 
 
 It is a massive marble structui-e, after 
 the style of that of Napoleon, in Paris, but 
 a j4'ood deal after it. 
 
 Later in the day, with Mrs. J. M'(i.. 
 went over to Stat-'ii Island, and visited 
 the '"Sailors' Snug Harbour,'" where there 
 are some 1H)0 odds old sailors hiuisedyV^v, 
 the funds for which were left by a 
 Mr. llallam for tlie puri»ose. 
 
 It is a very wealthy institution, laud 
 in Xi'W York which belongs to it havin.i;' 
 immensely increased in value. 
 
 The jtrenuses are very extensive, and 
 the grounds extend to a good many 
 acres. 
 
 FiVi'rv eomfort a': 1 almost every luxury 
 
7i) 
 
 is providerl Inr the iT'.si(l<.'iits iV(.'(,' of 
 cliar,i;'e. 
 
 TliL' (liiii'ig halls are spat-iovs. and we 
 were told they could uceoimiiodate ii])wards 
 of TOO at one sittini;-. As soitk^ of the iMK) 
 are old men, there arc, of course, a i^-ood 
 many unalilc to he ]>resent at the meals. 
 
 They told us how iiiuch hread, butter, 
 beef, sugar, t^c, is used per day or per 
 week, but as we are not much up in 
 figures, we cannot repeat them, but the 
 (juantities were very great, and the men 
 are cei'tainly well fed. 
 
 The place is uiuler the charge of an 
 efficient nuuiag'er. who has a Jine house in 
 the grounds, and who is paid a large 
 salary, and there are all the nccessarv 
 tradespeople in connection, who are also 
 supported. 
 
 Besides the honu', there are a theatre 
 and a (;ha})el, both of which are 
 beautiful and well-e(piip|)e(h It was very 
 interesting to see over the place, and 
 good to see that those who had l)een often 
 tossed u])on the wild billows had found 
 at last this "snug hai-bour." 
 
 The benefits are not e(»nlined to 
 Americans, as we were taken to see one 
 or two Scotchmen, one of whom. (Ui being 
 asked where he was from, said " A"m frae 
 Dundee." 
 
 In the evening dined with .1. M'CJ. ai a 
 restaurant, and we Inul a long talk over 
 matters, past, i>resent. and fntni-e. 
 
 'IMiis has been a line da v. 
 
so 
 
 Friday, 28th October— ALBANY. 
 
 As the Hudson Rivei- dav-hoiit is oft" tor 
 fli(.' season, could not sail up the rixor t(.i 
 Al])aMy. 
 
 Left l.v ti-ain at lO.oO a.m., (J. D., 
 .J. .M*(t. ami witl', seciii.i;' us oft". 
 
 AirivtMl iit Alliauy at '2.'M) p.m. 
 
 The line runs up the East l)aiik of the 
 I'ivcr. and closu' to it most of the wav. ami 
 tlir views Were Very pretty. 
 
 The h.w hills (some 200 to ;>00 feet 
 hi,:L;'h). or, as thrv eall them, the ^'palisades," 
 ai'o well covered with trees, and the 
 colours were hri^ht and varied. It is a 
 fine and wide river, atul tiiei-e are 
 iinmerons towns du ])oth sides, some low^ 
 down on the inai'^in of the water, and 
 otiici's elevated somewhat up the hill. 
 
 Passed "Sing' Sing","' tin- state [)rison of 
 New^ York. 
 
 Alhany is rather old-fashioned, and, 
 excepting- one or two, tlu' streets are 
 not vt'ry wide. There are a few i^'ood 
 sh()])s. 
 
 There is here a liin; Capitol, not loiit;' 
 iinished. and the style of stairways and 
 car\'in;^'s are very elaborate. AVe hail a 
 iL;'nide who explained everything' to 
 w cur ill ess, ami we learnt afterwards the 
 reason for the minuteness of his details — 
 he was paid by time, and the longer lu; 
 held on to us the moi'e money he gof. 
 
 ill' frankly admitted thcri- had been a 
 "••ood ileal of dishonesty, or. as he calletl it. 
 
SI 
 
 "a l)i,2; steal," in the ereetiou of tlicse 
 buildings, but this is not unusual on tin's 
 si(h' of the water. 
 
 l>eautiful dav — like August. 
 
 Saturday, 29th October — BOSTON. 
 
 Left Albany at ten a.m.. and arrived at 
 Boston at four same afternoon. The 
 countiT through which we passed was 
 more home-like than nmeh we have seen. 
 but for the absence of hedges to diviih 
 the fiehls, and the prevalence of wooden 
 houses. 
 
 There are some good farms on the way. 
 and the houses look rather [)retty in their 
 white and coloured paints. A good juany 
 of the trees have now assumed tlieir 
 autumn tints, and are gay in all shades 
 from yellow to cinnamon and red. but. in 
 the Eastern j)ortion of the journey, many 
 of them are bare. 
 
 There are some biggish cities on 
 the way — S[)ringfield. Worcester, and 
 Franiingham. Px^tween twelve and one 
 o'clock passed through a V)it of good 
 Scotch scenerv^ — a well- wooded iilcn with 
 a river running through ir. 
 
 Ariived at Pxiston in hea\y rain, and 
 were not impressed favourably with our 
 first lo(jk of the city. Washington Street 
 is the chief business street, but it is not 
 wide, and it is fearfully busy — in fact, 
 crowded, both by })eople on foot and 
 vehicles of all sorts, including electric cars, 
 F 
 
82 
 
 whiH.. in .some plncc-s. fnyu, aln.nsf a 
 eoDtiiiuons stroaiii. 
 
 The sfreefs also aro very di.-tv, „„ 
 aeoonnt, no.lMnl.f. ..rtl,,. woatluM- ' 
 . /^^^^•'•'^ ^^'''^'"A^ t'"'nsaf A.la,u'« |„m.s. 
 "'f<'nmn^.n,sthat.una.oo„nfofavanVfv 
 '•t ''imnnstanccs, none <,r Mr. M'F.-s jH.onle 
 |^n..on.oto.p.ndsonn. days with ,Jin 
 Boston, as they I.a.l ho,,.,], s,> perhaps wo 
 
 from there. Very disappointed. 
 AN father (lull— aftei-ward.s, rain. 
 
 Sunday, SOtb October— BOSTON 
 
 In the forenoon w.'Ut to the Chu-endon 
 
 street Haptrst dnuvh-a beantifnl house 
 (>ood attendanee an.l interestin.-". 
 moetino, T].e preacher evidentiv a 
 ^^•nn^er. Afternoon, Trinity Kpiseopal 
 
 Clmrch:and,„,theevenin,UWl^Str^^ 
 Cono,.e.,,t,onal. All the servie,. were 
 well attended, and in all of then, thr 
 •"usicwasoneoftheehiefteatnres. 
 
 11.0 Sunday is pretty well kept here. 
 
 ^i-l- all shut, except the eaf..s-a, least 
 
 c.iis, athoug-h not so nuuK-rous, are 
 f''^;qnent and. well made use of 
 
 J lie cars are overbea.l trollev. and in 
 «ome places .0 underground. ;,nd son,. 
 ^s a,ee turt er on en.er^e a^ain. This 
 
 - throu,.h a district where there are son.e 
 - ;:-l-: -.d a laro.e tralH,. I.v tlm 
 "quality m carriag-es. 
 K*ain nearly all tlili dav. 
 F 2 
 

 Monday, 3lsl October— boston. 
 
 (,,'" "'"/'"■;;.' " «'"''i nt th,.. i),„„i„i„„ 
 
 ,,"T,'';"' '■J'^^-ti"" to Chang,., ,„„| w,. 
 
 _S;'t",.,lay, ,„sto«(l „f r,,„„ li,«t„„ .,„ 
 nu..s,lay, (i,„ „•,.]<,* an-a,,,..! f,„. ,|,„t 
 
 plllpd.SO. 
 
 Aftu- ),,,vin.. ,settJ,Ml tl.i.s matn.r, fn.,lc 
 ^'nvcsl.ycarr.Min.l.-nHlnlMM.f tlM-citv 
 
 parks, and Hunker Hill. 
 
 J''--sa^..,t.loaItoseo,an.l,uore 
 tunc would be required to see all 
 
 The u.us.u.n and library are iine 
 •mWmo^, and fboy npp.ar to be ^reatlv 
 
 taken advantage of by tin, Bostonians. ' 
 i '-lay the streets in the ee),tre of tlu- 
 city are busier than ever, the reason 
 given l.eni,i;-thatitisH.argaindav." 
 
 Keally they w<.uld re,]uire wid.; .streets 
 or tewer i)eo])Ie here. 
 
 This has lieen a showerv day. 
 Left for Montreal by tlie C.P.H. at ..i^dit 
 p.m.. and had a pleasant vuu. As it xvas 
 < ark ..,11 the way and w,. retired earlv 
 tliere is nothin,^' to de.seribe. 
 
 Arrived at Montreal e/^ time at 7.4.1 a.m. 
 
 Tuesday, 1st November-MONTREAL. 
 Arrived at A[ontreal up to time-fine 
 •"<>niino--_,ud walked to OOl Sherbrooke 
 
84 
 
 1. 
 
 otieof. a..,( wen. very warn.ly .veloo,,,..,] 
 N.. .n.n.he.u-d,tl.,-tl...,,.MI.3vlK.. 
 ■n holastofHO.nt.a,.|....n<laIlorthe 
 
 ; ^/ • I'"^';-"- «^'- the eaptain an.l 
 
 M,! n ' "'^'' "" '^••- ''•' ^'■•- ^M<..'an,l 
 ^iH'Ht thr .vnini^ (iMietly af COl, an,] 
 
 tlu" c„„tin,.nt. '<-'--.os,s:no. 
 
 Wednesday. 2nd November-MONTREAL 
 Went ahout the dty an.l ..ku]. .alls. 
 J^eeliioNvqu.foatlunut'hoiv. 
 I„i'J'^' ^-v-'inM' visited ('. M'F. at his 
 
 This has heeii a fine. dav. 
 
 Thursday, 3rd November-MONTREAL. 
 '" ^''^' ^<'»>'n(.(,n M-alke.l with Mrs. L. „„ 
 tl- inountain, an<l vi.site,l the cen.etery 
 
 I^veptlun. very pretty and peaceful: ' • 
 I u. day was lovely, ,,,l ,,^, ^..^,^^. 
 
 tiK' lo()k.,.ut was very fiiu.. 
 
 'J'J'e trees are now nearly all bare. The 
 absence of <.,.,,,, j,^ ^j^^, h.n.lseape alters 
 
;;;''';i'';--^'-.-^i-i>...i,..i,,,iv «.,■,,, „.i,,,,,, 
 '"""''"■"|'"-"iii„.,„,-,ii,„„„.. 
 
 j l-vlnc..,.lsaf,;(,| .S|„.,-I„.„:,|c,. Sl.v.f 
 «tle,..,,,,.__|,,,,,| ,|,.j,.,,,^^l 
 
 y,I'-.M.-.f,..,„K| .!„.,■,■ ,viv,.s-,„„, ,,„.„, 
 
 '' ""™-t-.l n, ,S..otl.,n,l. .,„.l „„. 
 
 ITu ""■'""' " ■- '""I '""■".■.l'< 
 
 I'l*' <'!(( coiiiilrv. 
 
 , ^^^^"'' '"'■^ "^'-■" ■•' '"^<•^• .lav-Iik. 
 
 ■T-_<?- 
 
 Friday, 4lll ^ovenlbel•-MONTREAL 
 
 n.,t'.',;: '■'■"■ '■''"■^ "■•'■'■'■''- -^1. 
 
 Vi.it„| ci,..,t..,„, K,„„,„, , 1,^^^, 
 ^ -t •■"""lu.ty. «.|„,,. „„.,,. „,, „„.„, 
 ""■""•^ ;'".H« ,.,„„„.,.t«, „i,|, „,;, 
 
 JJaiKet— a verv Ijusv Jiive 
 
 ..■t,cuh„- as t„ I...V ,1.,. ,,,a„^■e ,1 i, 
 «a..,„,,,^,„.„,,|.„„.^.^,,„^,^,;;_.,^^^^^ 
 
 M..M„. In,,.,.,,.,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, , 
 
 f 
 
.s»; 
 
 As tlic, striiiiicr Siiiis at (l,ivli.;li< 
 lo-iiioiTuw, had to lie on lioard t(t-iii,i;'lit, 
 so l(--t't Slierlirookc Street at ten d'cldck. 
 accoiiipanitMl Itv kind tarewulls and 
 ex])i'<'ssi()iis of h(»[)c for u safe j'onrtiey. 
 
 Mr. M'l'\ aii<l ( '. went with us t(i the vhi}). 
 
 Another very line day. 
 
 Saturday, Slh November— SS. "DOMINION." 
 
 The s.s. ••Dominion" sailed this 
 luoruin^'. 
 
 We slept so soundly that we did not 
 hear the ship startini;-. 
 
 Siie iiad a very rou,i;-h passage West- 
 ward — head winds and heavy seas — hut 
 she sets out now in line weathei'. 
 
 Met the '• .Manitol)an,"' at ele'Veii a.m.. 
 coming u}) the river, and \arious other 
 craft during the day, l)Ut nothing of 
 s[)ecial interest. 
 
 Ueaehe<l Quid)ec at 4.;)i) p.m., where a 
 few pa.sseugers with their haggage came 
 off by tender. 
 
 As this A^essel is to leave Ijiverpool for 
 Jio.stou on the 17th, the captain wislies to 
 lose no time, and we Imrry on. 
 
 Retired early, (^uiet night. 
 
 This has lieen a line day. 
 
 Sunday, 6th November— s.S. "DOMINION." 
 Dull morning. Wind rose as the day 
 advanced, and, in the afternoon and 
 evening, the ves.sel pitched a good deal. 
 
87 
 
 A 
 
 «ucv:;:;:. •■'■'■'■''''■ '"'"-'•■'^*- ''-•■• ''•••■'- 
 
 M^Ht '■"■ ■■'■^""•■■'■'"'■' '"'^ '"■■ 
 
 .UI0.:!o I..-UI .,.„■,■,,. i„,|,„,„| ,„„, 
 
 "';'''tli«- culd ,„„l ,|„||. |;,,„ ,1,,,. 
 
 tlie nig-Iif. '""^ 
 
 Monday, 7,1, November-s.S." DOMINION " 
 
 ..,''"", """:','"f, i""-i"iv, ,„„_,,„„. 
 
 '-".>•■ ".■.■iH.cr .lull, ,„„| t|,e „|,.;i„ 
 
 ''IIIL' NllllSct. ^" 
 
 li'iu to ,,(.,.,1 tn-(la_v, ;;ii> j„i]^,,^^ 
 Tuesday, 8th November-s.S..' DOMINION.- 
 
 terra-hnii;i. 
 
 tu-day. • "^ ^'"^^ transpired 
 
 Riui tonuun tu-day, ^14 miles. 
 
 ess 
 
Wednesday, 9th November-ss. -DOMINION" 
 '^I'>nii.i- .lull b„f ,lry. \Vi„,l .still 
 N.-W., and we ure .sciuldino- aloim- 
 beiiutif'iilly. ^ 
 
 Sliy-ht .sii„Nv showers duniig tht.' d.-iv, 
 l)nt no discomfort. 
 
 yiiip ])itcliino- some, but hohavinrr ^v(•Il, 
 and ovoiwthin- very fomfortal.le. 
 
 Fine starry night. 
 
 Rnn to noon to-day, 300 miles. 
 
 Thursday, lOth November-ss. .'DOMINION.' 
 Fine niornino._snnshine. Durin- the 
 forenoon, sii-lit snow showers and hri-.l.t 
 smisln-ne alternately, fianies on declfin 
 the attornoon. 
 
 Wind still X.-W. till ah.mt five, wh.'n it 
 veered round to the sonth, and made a 
 ^•ood deal ot n<.is*. in the rift-o.j„i.. Looked 
 as if the weather was n;o[ui^ to be dirtv. 
 
 The ice amon- the passen-ers is 
 begnmino. f,, „ielt, and we are .t,n>ttini;- to 
 know each (»ther. 
 
 Hun to noon to-day, '602 iniles. 
 
 Friday, llth November— s.s. "DOMINION." 
 Fine mornini;-. Wind ehanged to X.-W. 
 a,.t;-ain, and we have a stron^- In-ei'ze. Sea 
 ^«.niewhat lumpy, but, as wi.id and water 
 are with us, there is no discomfort, but an 
 easy rise and fall. 
 
 We have j,^ames on ,K.(k to-day- 
 cricket, football, shuflleboard, ctc.-and 
 
«t> 
 
 cvoi-yono Ktrnis tc Ik- ciijcyin^' tlu'iu- 
 sclve.s— the captain among tlie rest. 
 
 This evening- there was a concert 
 in the second cabin 8ah)on, when the 
 variety was great, and the talent i.rettv 
 «-ood. Kev. Mr. I». being the moving 
 spirit. A collection was made oji l„.l,a]7 
 ot tile Liverpool Sailors' Orphanage, and 
 it amounted to £4 odds. 
 
 Kun to noon to-day, 300 miles. 
 
 -^> 
 
 Saturday, 12th November-s.s, "DOMINION." 
 
 Another fine niormng-bright snnshine. 
 3Iore hke May or June than November. 
 
 Steamer passe.l o,i the north, goin-^' 
 west, at eight a.m. ^ 
 
 Sea heavier to-day-a goo.l deal of hill 
 and dale-hut the wind is ligjiter from the 
 west. We iiad games on deck to-day 
 again. "^ 
 
 There was a concert in the first cabin 
 saloon tins eveidng, and we ha.I an 
 
 oxinbition of sleight-of-hand ami thou-ht- 
 roading. '^ 
 
 Collection again for the Saihuvs' 
 Orphanage m Liverpool, which amounted 
 to £4 odds. 
 
 Kun to noon to-day, 29(; nn'les. 
 
 Sunday. 13th November-s.s. 'DOMINION." 
 Another very fine morning. The last is 
 
 to be the best. Very H^-l^t wind and less 
 
 sea. 
 
Hi^-life.I hm.l .,1, fl„> Ktarl.canl iiboiit 
 twelve, and Miet a .sfeaiiici- ^•oiii,<;' west af 
 l-'50, hut. (.11 a(c(.uiif ,,f til,, (listaiicc, did 
 iK't K'ani li.T name, j'.isscd Iimistmliull 
 iit live p.iii., and frit as if ui,\y wc were 
 al)()iit tlu- cud (»f our jouriicv. 
 
 'I'liis loiciK,,,!, we had an Episcopal 
 service in the lirHt, eahin saloon at 1().;!(). 
 and, in the evening-, another in tlu; sec.nd 
 cahin at seven. The o/liciatin- clergy- 
 men were Messr.s. Hooper and Cooke. 
 
 Hun t(. noon f<Mla_v, 'M)] miles. Still 
 2i)'d miles to Liver[)ool. 
 
 Monday, I4th November— LIVERPOOL 
 
 Arrived this morning- at nine, and toinid 
 the wt-iithcr dull and misty— had to slow 
 e(.min,i.- up the river. The steamer had 
 not been expeeted till noon, and there 
 was a little delay in <^ettin,i»- to the 
 landin,ij;'-sta_i^-e. 
 
 However, we o-ot thert' all right. Left 
 the ship on ^ood terms with overyhody, 
 got cleared hy the custom house (ifKeei's, 
 and were off. 
 
 We have little to add regarding the 
 steamer, and. aftei- fui-ther experience, ean 
 only reiterate what we said— that she is 
 most comfoitable in every resjiect. The 
 l)romenade deck being covered, allbrds 
 gooil jirotectioii in any weather. It is at 
 all times (juite available for games or any 
 kind of amusement, and, being lighted by 
 
n 
 
 elcctncity, ,.an he tnhvu .ulv.iMtauv ,.r l.v 
 ni,i>lit as WH'II as ]>y day. 
 
 TJie iiKMi aiv always ..l.lini,,..^ .,^,1^ 
 imdcr onlci-R fn.in tlicii- oWu-vrs. cvrr 
 AvilliiiK to Hx uj. weathcT slu-.ts ..,. the 
 wiiKlwai-.Isi.lf, an.l .l„i„n. „|| tl.cy can for 
 tilt' ('(.iiilurt of the passeii-ers. 
 
 We liave umoiio- the onicci-s and civw 
 .■very s..otion of tiic iiritish Isles 
 rciircscii ted. 
 
 Th.- captai.i himself is a Welshman, 
 that ti^ht little priiicipalitv. The doctor 
 I'ails from the -(;,ccu Isle," au.l males an 
 a.^recal>Ie eom].ain'(»n when he is not 
 consumed l.y ,luiy, which he seldom 
 .-ippears to he. The engineer is one of 
 the hardy race belon-ino- to the Northern 
 half of the kin-dom. and is always readv 
 to escort i.assen,o,.,.s ,,ver his dei.artnien't 
 ot the shi]., and is never tired in his 
 explanation of the complex )na<'hine which 
 drives the g-reat vessel thn.imh the water. 
 And the chief steward is a native of the 
 snnny South. wJier,. the culinary art is so 
 much stu(h"ed, and he is always to the fore 
 in his plans for supplyhig 'the creature 
 comforts of tln.sc under his charge, and 
 we holh-ve neither those who were always 
 ahleto ))(. at the table, nor those who had 
 to he provi.h'd for (dscAvhere, had any 
 reas..n to com].Iain of his w;,nt <',f 
 attenti(m-at h.ist, if they did con.plah,. 
 it certainly was without reason. 
 
 And the passengers— we had between 
 oO and 40, being' considerably fewer than 
 
92 
 
 w.' I.Ji.l ;.„iM^- out, ;,n.l fhu permm,,'! 
 NVH8 u ^.o,m1 ck.,1 cl.;n,ov,I. W,. h,„i J,,,, 
 or tiMv,. ..Ier^n-,nei) (Clnirdi „f En^-laiid) 
 and H ^ood n.any n.-n ivfurnin^ fn,.u the 
 «oMhekls.M the N.Tfh, jui.l ni..st(.f tl.nr 
 talk WMs (,f p,„.].ets. lodes, seams, 
 ••nislni.os, and sue), like, all in eonneetion 
 with their ex]..Tienees in tlie Kh.ndyke ,„• 
 N..ine such l,»eality where thev had been 
 seeking- for the precious metal. 
 And now we are in Liverpool, 
 'l^his is November, and, on nearin- tlie 
 c^ity, it is ,,uite like it. We have \\ dull 
 and misty, and there had l,een some 
 coasting- accidents during the night. 
 
 Called on (i. H. S. and spent an hour 
 with him, and then left at eleven o'clock 
 for Manchester. Called ,.n JI. J. F. j,nd 
 others, and left for home at l.-)0. Jlad a 
 phMsant run down, and got droppe.I at 
 Strathbungo at eight. 
 
 Friends at home to welcome us, and we 
 limlhrng talks over some of the wonders 
 visited on the other side of the world: but 
 this was only the beginning, and there 
 will be more talks to come. 
 
 And now the journey is eml.-d and we 
 ai-e home again to our usual routine. 
 The time, on looking back, i.s short, but 
 when we think of the distance travelled, 
 the places visited, and the manv friends 
 Been, there was a good deal "crowded 
 into it. 
 
 It almost looks like awakening from a 
 dream, until we refer to our notes and 
 
93 
 
 ''"<! if MotuMlIy record,.,! tl.af ^v. w,.r(. at 
 sncl,;n„l sm-h a place, an.l saw sncl, an.l 
 -'^ncha In, .ikI. „„ ;, 0.;,.,.,, ,Iav. 
 
 There is ,„u,.h f„ think alu.ut, an,l th,- 
 i-ecllectun, ,.f all w. j.ass,.,l tl.r,m^;h will 
 l^<'wifh lis for many , lavs to come. 
 
 11.0 c"untry is c-rtainly c-xfensive, an.l 
 fins ,s l„.sf l,.arnt l.y travellino- over if 
 ami i,ass,no. ,iays an,l nights on trains.' 
 H.y th,. way, we ,l„n> think we lik,. th,. 
 ' '•«!•« so w,.]| as onr own. With ns 
 tli-re ,s ,no,,, pHvac-y. althonoh, r„r th,- 
 iono. (hsfances, in son.e respects theirs 
 ll^ay perhaps he preferahl,., hut Ave w.mld 
 J'l;»; to have more experien,-e |„.fore 
 giving a deci.led opini,)ii. 
 
 We certainly saw maiiv things which 
 were new an.l ,stran.-e, an.l it was 
 "npressed upon us that ,io coiinfrv c-an 
 ckum to have a monopolv of what is 
 always ri<rht an.l hcst, hut, weii>hino. all 
 t iin.i.-s fog-ether, we came to the 'eon- 
 Husi,>n that we would prefer residii^^ in 
 fiic old country, where, as some sav, life is 
 .so hum.lnun, rather than on the other 
 side of the ocean, where a gr,.at manv 
 things are new, and uot alwavs, n.u- 
 necessarily, better. 
 
 • > I • ■ • 
 
 . • ; . . 
 t t A * I'll 
 
 1 1 
 
 * * V i » t 
 
 a a « 4 t 
 
 * I • ' • ■ < 
 
 • e , I • , » 
 
 ■ a u 
 
i)4 
 
 LOG OUTWARD. 
 
 N. 
 
 vv. 
 
 Run. 
 
 WKATIIKll. 
 
 Am 
 
 '1 
 
 1-2. ")5.;;(; s.io 
 
 1.'}. ;")(;.!.-, 1 7.;; J 
 
 14. '>il.-2(} 2(1.1 
 
 lo. .')•,.:>{} 35.28 
 
 10. 'r)l.l8 J ,-,.2 
 
 17. r)2.I.-. ,-,;]. 10 
 
 iH. n).2.") <;o..io 
 
 I 
 
 19. 48.10 (W.IH 
 ., Moni real. - 
 
 •2ryJ S. wind. Dull. 
 
 •"<»7 S.-U'. Stmii^r. 
 
 -^77 X.-\V. Ovnrast. 
 
 •^17 S.-W. Dull. 
 
 •53-' W. Dull and coM. 
 
 ''i'-i-^ \y. VU,u: 
 
 J330 \V. Fi,„. .,,,,1 ^.],.,j,. 
 
 i^ W. Slight mists. 
 2,818 j 
 
 LOG HOMEWARD. 
 
 X 
 
 N. 
 
 W. 
 
 Run. 
 
 WKArilEH. 
 
 (•V, 
 
 8. 
 !). 
 
 1(1. 
 
 11. 
 12. 
 
 <^lK'lt('C, - 
 
 40.12 (J6.,'Jo 
 50.7 |.-)9.24 
 r)2.43! ->2.I7 
 
 54.33 
 
 44.10 
 
 55.44 
 
 35.38 
 
 5G.20 
 
 •2(',a:> 
 
 .')(]. 1 1) 
 
 ,");"). 40 
 
 17.53 
 
 8.58 
 
 14. j LiviTipool, 
 
 180 Fi,„.. 
 
 242 Frost. S.wind. Ch.u.ly. 
 
 312 Light ^V. Overcast. 
 
 •311 Light N. Fill. -.t lid ck-ar. 
 
 oOd Light N.-W, Ovcirast. 
 
 302 ^^^'o'^f- Viirialdf winds. 
 ( Snow showors, 
 
 300 Slroii-; .\.-W, Hiic ni i\m. 
 '2'JG Liirht W. „ 
 
 301 Variable winds. .. 
 2(53 Fine. 
 
 I 2.819 I 
 L'. ■ .-I