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TAYLOR, LONG-ACRE: AND BY T. TAYLOR, DROMPTON. c^^v;^, {i .vJ I'vinUd by T. Tajlvr, Hromptm. U: ^p,rt>- '^ w *^ «* A-i-t'" r- . r fA )J . \ (H- '. \ ^' i «■ ^ .^l. ...*.» m «- tv^ V 'i. sj^'f^"^^^]/} '^^'i^^i con- Y \^the Information I ^Ve Colony, I beg ^ e account of the \ I have been per- J wo- fVoj'k in con- the indidgence of ^ ^'E AUTHOR. ^ 1 w »^^? .^ \\ A'*' .» ' : i T f^ %, -^ .^ \ {^ ,^-\ r^ m-' j^ .*r ^ i'^' W' ■'. I. »•— 1~. ._ . 4«.. * \: ■-^' V TO THE PUBLIC. THERE being ?w accurate account of the Island of Cape Breton extant, I have been per- suaded to undertake the foUoxving JVork in con- sideration of its usefulness. Brevity, with con- sisteticy and truths have been my chief o}>jccf, and in a fexo sheets is comprised all the Information 1 conceive important concerning the Colony. I beg leave now dutifully to submit it to the Public^ con- vinced that my motives insure me the indulgence of a liberal and enlightened People. THE AUTHOR. m M \ M V ^p INTRODLXTIOV. WHILST |ursoiis, \\\\0H' ciicumstuuccs iviulcr it [t(lvi.sal)lc loi' l!u 111 to !i ;i\c tlicii' niiiivc Coimtiv, and lo iiiiiiiMtc lodisl.iiil cliiiii...., il a|)j)Ciirs a ^rcat iiii.sl'or- tiiiic, that many an- It It wilhoiil a kiiuwlt'il'it; of the A.-yhiiii tht'ir ('ountiy har> proviieil lor thciii within her own Colonics. ]ii the want ot" lhi.-^ inloinialion, \\c ))( raivc many persons cnitHy tit huKa hy artful ami e\au;gi;ratc(J slalciiK'nts, ami iiuhiccti to tjuit tlicir (.'otintry, tlirecliiiL!; thtir coarsf to the Uiiilnl Slates of America, where tluic au fewer rtal ativanlaLiies and induceinent.'s than jiossessed hy our own Colonics, wiiilst they are led to sacrifice the deartst ctii itleru- tions of a loyal people, their allt'giancv to the Coun- try which jrave them hirtli, arid to foiefjo the benefits of a Con-litution, fonndeil and sealed l)y l!;.' blood of their ancestors. At a moment when hmidietis of our Countrymen ai"e embarkin^^ and ab.uidonin-^ their friends, imtler these latul impre^-iwus, I conceive it to be an im{)erativc duty to aiforil i-ucli ^jtasoiKtble information as a rcjiuience for seven:! vear.; in those countries has enabled me to collect- Ilavinu- visited » % ( a ) the Island of Cape Dreton, and Prince Kdunnrs Island, the Provinces of Xova Scotia, and New Brun'jwick, and travelled over part of the United States: in each ot these governments it lias been my cliief ohject to ascertain, at the respective puhlic olVices, tile fjualitication of ai)plicants, and the exprnce of obtaining grants of crown lands, their situation and quality, and to ( ndeavonr to be an eye uitntss of ttie labour necessary to improve the wilderness lands, and particularly to observe the circumstances of the settlers, at the dilTcrent stages of their improvement: and no part that I have hinted at appears to afl'oid ecpial enconragrment to the settler, to that of the Island of Cape Breton, with regard to soil, climate, and conve- nience. It having been the policy of Ministers to restrict the passing of any grants of land, the Island has been left without encouragement, and passed hitherto unnoticed, altiumgh possessing many superior advantages even to Kova Scotia, and Prince Ldward s Island, which have been hitherto frequently and justly introduced to the public notice. Until tlie last summei-, the only titles issued at C'ape Breton were crown leases, constituting the occupiers of lands to be tenants at will; settlers, without being pressed by the most urgent necessity, would refuse accepting ui' so fickle a tenure; and several individuals, after making improvements, preferred to quit the Island, and aban- don their farms, than to remain there, where they would obtain no security for the enjoyment of their »_ — 111 Now United bi'cn 111V c ufViccs, VMice of lion unii ss of liie lids, and of the ivciiicnt: )id ctiuul [bliiiid of d convc- isters to le Island passed superior 'Edward's id justly sunimci-, 2 croun to be [I by the npr of so making id abaii' ere tliey of their ( 3 ) '•fl-pnii'^. '1 hcsc circMinstai2C(\s luniiig been duly nMiiiiiiiiiiciilcd lioniL- by the Lieutcnant-CioveiMor, with the advice of ('ouiicii, ■ -in reply thereto, from the Sicicttiry of State s oilier for the Colonies, the Lieute- n>int-(ios('inor \v;is direclrd to issue Grants or l.etlen I'.ittnt in fiiliu'e, for such (|iiantitie.s of land as appli- eant settlers shall appear e(jiiij)etent to enllivute ; since uhieh /i^^,l/>iy^, ^ I fit. \ ^^/cO^y^ //■ ( ^> ) 8000 souls, tlic greater part of whom arc (le:>((-ii(.li.nt., of the original Frencli ^settlers, ^vho hccanie British subjects at the conquest of tlic Ishuid, in the year 1758: the residue have principally eniigrate(l from Scotland and the United States of America ; tliose from tiie latter country are called Anicrican loyalists, who, being liritish subjects, left the Unite(l States at the period those pro\inces beccune dis- affected. "• », The Island of Caj)e Dreton is governed by the laws of Eno;land : — it has a licutenant-izovernor and council, who are empoweredj by his Majesty's instructions, to make such local ordinances as are necessary and suitable to the circuinstances of the Island; but this arrangement is only to continue until such time as the Colony shall be enabled to tind members to form a House of Representatives, to have a voice in the legislature similar to our House of Commons. The power at pvesent thus of necessity conunitted to the Lieutenant-Governor and Council is wisely limit- ed, and the Royal Instructions direct that no ordinance whatever, affecting the life, liberty, or property of the subject shall be passed without a clause, suspending the o})eration of such ordinance until his JMajesty s pleasure be made known. It has been determined by the courts of law on the V8 % ( r ) I'cndi.ni., i British in the iniiiiat('(l Uucrica ; LlDd'icCiU L' United anc tli.s- the laws council, :tions, to .ary and but this time as . to form :c in tilt Island, that an ordinance made to tax the subject, or atlbct his life or liberty, would, without the acqui- escence of the subject, be unconstitutional and illegal, and therefore no taxes are levied on the Island at present. The revenue of the Island arises from the rent of the coal mines, which, strictly speaking, belongs to his Majesty's privy purse, and a sum allowed by Par- liament, called the annual contingent vote. The Lieutenant-Governor and Council are also ap- pointed for the conducting every matter relating to the government of the Island, wherein his ^Majesty's interest is concerned. The following officers have been instituted for the government of the Island, with the names of the pre- sent offices annexed thereto : — • lUMuitted cly limit- rdinance tv of tlie spcnchng ilajcsty's \i on the His Excellency ^rajor-Gen. GEORGE ROBERT AINSLIE, Lieutenant-Governor and Commander in Ciiief in and over his Majesty's Island of Cape Breton, and the Territories thereunto bolunging, Chancellor and Vice Admiral of the same. HIS majesty's council, The Hon. A. C. Podd, The Hon. J. Weeks, Hichard Stone, F. M. Thiirn, 3 • F. Crawley, A. W. Desbanes-r^t dj /^^\ ' CkiK of Council— }s. Crowdy, Esq. B 4 U/ .# ' n.i w '■ ■* ■ r- rl ( ^ ) COURT OF CHANCERY, Chamillor—i''. \\. Ainslic, K^(|. Jllantcr in C/ta/iccnj —5, Weeks, Ksq. Jl(<^istir — Jiinies Crowtly, E>.(j. COL'RT OF KRROR. Jlis M;ijcs)v"s C(>iincil. COURT OF MARUlAfJE AND DIVOlU'l.. liis iM;ijest\"s Council. COURT OF KINGS BF.NCK. C/z/f/' J;M//ic-lIon. A. C. Dudd, As->istant Just'nc- (0> ) /itfornri/-Clcn(r(il—]\'.m. A. \V. Dosbaiiefr.v /^» ' r, ? ' ,,, V. Solicitor-General — ^rothonotary and Clerk of the Cro-du — C E. Lcotumi, I'^.ij. Vroxosl Marshal — COURT OF ESCHEAT AND FORFEITUIU:. Jiidisc — lloii. A. C. D(>(1(), (.p Advocate-General — Iloii. A. \\ . Di'j«lniHt>t*.V , ; '^;^*, Treasurer — V. M. Tlmrn, Es(|. Siirxeyor-Gcncral of Lan Lly, Exj. HIS MAJESTY S CUSTOMS. Collector — ri)ili}) Diunar^fimjo, j^^sq. Comp/ > oHer- -lltMnm Ctjimtv Es(\. King's Agent Jar the Island — Gforjjc Istcd, E^q. St. Jaiucs'i. Place. Vi l"*-* '^'^'-^%i, , wiiicli is procu'cd in manv parts of the Island, aixl also saved by new settlci's lor wihtv-r |)r(;vrii;ic'r. — 'J'hn spring commences in April, bat the ground is r- ( in ) i!/ seldom fit for tillage till the beginning of May, Nvhicl; is considered the Inisicst period of tlie year for the farmer: the seed is no sooner in tiie ground thaq veiretation rapidly approaches; and June may be considered a summer nu>nth : towards the latter end of July the hav harvest connncnces : in the beuinnins of September the grain is fit to reap; and in October the potatoes are dug, and every part of the crop must be secured before tiie fir?t of November, Mhen t.'ie weatlier becomes unsctded, as tlie winter ap- proaches. The autumn on the Island is much finer tlian in England. October is the pleasantest month in the year, the weather becoming moderately cool; and though November and December are subject to fiost and partial falls of snow, the winter cannot be said to set in before Christmas. Al)Out the first of January navigation closes, and the harbours of the Lland, except I ouisbourg, Manadicu, and St. Peter's Bay, are frozen up, so as to form a complete briiige of icr, whereby the settlers are enabled to cross over with large ox and horse teams, and convey their fodder, fuel, tS:c. from the opposite banks of the harbour. Diirinir this season the settlers arc occii-! pied in feeding their cattle, providing their fuel, building vessels or boats, prepiu'ing timber for ex- portation, or catching peltry for sale.* In Mai'ch * Tlic {H'ltiv liaile consists of the skins of moose, caraboii, villi ciits, musk r;it.s, minks, iiuirtiiis, weazlcs, racoons, bt'ar>, oUt'is, and foxes of a rod, silver grcv, and bkitk colour. thf aiu| fb ami bit. J <1( an(| Th(J ( n ) t'.ir' ice lH\;ati()n ojX'iis. It is at tliis time the Freiuli tishcnncn vciturc oii tlic most hazardous voyage ainoiiif the Icehi r<^s, in pursuit of srals, for making l)it>: havinii; for this puiposc ibllowcd tiie floating ire < har otV the coast, they return, to render their oil, Mu\ prepare tor the eod fishery, wiiicii occupies ihcui and their families till winter. r\ Curiosity has not yrt pcndrated into tiie bowels of the \a^t mountains of Cape I'reton, lurther than l!ie (li-f'ovcry of its valuable coal mines, which will he ii(i( alter noticed : many dilVerent specimens of ore have been collected and brought to Sydney, l)ut have never been truly assayed, and we only suj)pose valuable by their appearance and specific gravity: manv different sj)ecim(;ns of line spar and petrifac- tions have also been discovereil, and open an exten- sive tield for the speculations of the curious in this lespcct. The Island, a> I have stated, contains extensive tracts of tine hnid, which, in a wild state, are covered xvith forests of trees, a large quantity of which is })ine, fit for the Kniilish market, but very littU^ has vet been ship))cd, under a supposition that it was recjuired for the use of the Crown, and no licences conse- fjuently allowed for the j)urj)Ose : licences are now grantable, and several vessels have been loaded ._J. ;fi i ; ( 1'^' ) vith the timber, tlK3 quality of \vhi:h is tliought to be of a closer texture, and superior to the timber of Kova, Scotia. The fishery atlbrds another branch of speculation, Cod, Haddock, Pollock, Sahiion, Mackii- rel,Gaspereaux, Siiad,and Herrings, are caught for ex- portcili(jn on every part of the coast; considerable fiuanlities of train oil is t.d^en from the Dog Fish, Cod, and Seals, in the spring oi' the year, and exi)orted to Knghnid: these are the ciiicf and predominant fea- tures of the Island. tl ! ::' I Tlic Forests of Cape Breton contain many species of wild animals, riz. *Jiears, Wild C'ats, Minks, Marlins, * T'le bcnrs of tlu; Island are never seen diirinc: the winter season, nor are their tracts discovered in the snow, which, in some clcsrc*', confirms the opinion en!ertained hy the inhabitants, who state tliese animals to dig liolos or dens in the ground, which tliey enter ahixit the beginning of Novend)cr, and reniaii) there con- <'e;i!c(l ill a torpid state for monlhs togctiier, wiHiout other nou- rislmuiit lli;i!i snckintr their p.iws. This part of the natural his- tory of that animal stranj^o and incredible as it may appear, was coafnincd !o me by on ohi Indian, who stated, that a few seasons prcciniiaj;, some (irno in the month of March, he happened to be lujistia:^ aiicr moose, accompanied by his son; when they came to a place wi;ere t!ie snow appeared to bo considerably reduced, and b.iviii'L; cxiuiiiiied abcait lUc spot, they di^covored an oritice, in vliicli they su-pocted some animiil lay concealed; afier removing some of the snow witii their toniiiliawks, they perceived the e^es of tlie aniai'd gii'>tenini>; from its ditik recess, at which his son dis- charged his musket; the animal dropped, and it was a cuuai- '^1 /■ Mp,hi to l)ft timber of branch of n, Macka- giilforex- iisidcrable •isb, Cod, il)ortcd to inaiit foa- ly species 5, Marlins, the winfrr ich, in some lifants, wlio vvliich thoy 1 there ron- otiior nou- natiiral his- i})|)CiJr, was :e\v seasons )ened to be ry came to ('need, and 1 orifice, in. r renioviag d the cM's lis son dis- s a couai- ( V^ ) ^lusqaartn, Oitcr, Racoon, T^eaver, and Foxes of a red mixed and black coloin-, and allbrd the best furs in the country; also two kinds of Deer are found in the wilderness. The Moose is the largest species of Deer, but being easily fatigued and taken after heavy falls of snow, the inhabitants have mostly destroyed tlicm, for the sake of the tallow and hides: the Cariaboo resem- bles the red Deer, and are to be met with in abun- dance at every part of the Island, though their fjuick scent and fleetness render them difficult of approach: the flesh of this animal is esteemed excellent and delicious venison: the llab!)its arc plentiful, and do not burrow in the ground : in the Winter this animal turns white, and resembles the Alpine Hare: there are likewise Porcupines, and many other of the smaller species of animals, which are found in most woody countries. The only species of birds whicii are peculiar to the colonies are the Partridges, of which there are two species, the birch and spruce, taking their names from derable time before they could cut away the ice sufTiciently to pet to it, when they found it to be a large bear: from the appearance of the den, which was afterwards exantined, they were convinced it was made before the frost, which renders the earth so very hard as to be impossible to dia; into i^, and from the size of the orifice, they were also certain the \i.u.i; ■ ,ould not have left the ien iiince the earliest full of suow. Ji ?A ( M ) the trot:*, ou till- biids of wliicli tin \ Iml. :tiul ai^f cslt'CMiU'tl cxc.clkiil (ur llu.; table; tlir liobin, wliicli rcscuilik'j our Tlu'usli in si/c ami plimiaiic, the \\'c'(|) ^ool•^V'ill,c)r IiuliaiiNii^litr)i.{l,aiKlili t'amous lor its snuill size, juul the luaiity ol'it^ |»hiiiia<2;o: thiic arc also woodcock', snipe, cnicw, and |)lonvc'r, with a great variety of sea fowl: the l)ird^ of prey are the eagle, vulline, and hawk. the The following are the principal harbours and set- tlements of the Island, r'lz. Sydney, Manadieu, Lou- isbourg, Gaberous, St. Peter's, Arichat, Gut of Canso, Port Hood, or Justicor|ue, IVJargaree, Cap(i North, St. Ann's, and Bradcck Lake, of uhicli I shall attempt to add a brief account; and afterwards take a survey of the interior, natural history, and native Indians. SYDNEY. The present scat of government is called Sydney^ and was founded in the year 1786', when the fortresSj citadel, and town of Louisbourg were abandoned: it is a small town, situate on a fine toiigue of land, about nine miles above the entrance of Spanish river, and is the residence of the public officers of the government: it is also the head quarters for c \J ) i, and ,nt> jiii, wiiirli the ^\'c('J^ iiiiii!4l>ii(|, iinioiis lor i^c: llicrc ivcr, witlj cy arc the ■» a nil sct- licii, Lou- Cut of 'C'C, Cap(i ch I bliall arils take nd native I SvducVj fortress^ nidoncd : : of land, Spanish : officers uters for the troOjw, and ims a fort, bai racks, stores, auil ma- gnziiu's: the south-west brunch of the Spanish river is nuviLjal)lo for siimll emit, for six miles al)ove the town, »nd the inursiiu (jf the river is ehielly iniprovctf. and exhibits the face of a most plea^^iniv and proimsinj; country, whilst the river atfords abundance of ditVerciit species of lish, for the supply of the town ant! suImuI)?:. At the entrance of the Spanish river, about eight miles below the tow n, are situate d the *coal mines, b( iui^ the finest veins of coal discovered in America, and are at present worked to threat {)rolit by lessees, who pay an annual rent to irovcrinur nt of about X' 2.500. TIk se coal mines not only encourage navigation, but al>.o afford cncom-agcment to the settlers, by the con>tant consumption of produce necessary to sujiportso huge an establishment, and being a source of employnient, enable the industrious settler, at his leisure, to obtaiu the means of procuring many necessaries which he requires, Tlie exportations hum Sydiiry are chieliy conhned to coal and di led lisli. As a statement of prices must be considered a ne- cessary exposure, in order to assist us to make up a complete idea of the nature of a country, and ena- * The Island 'abounds willi coal niinos, wliirh lie in a lioti/onhil direction, and being not more tlian ei^ht or twelve t'eet below the surface, may be worked without the cxpt-nce ol'dii;i:in ) f . bic US to jii(.li!;c ami {'oinpaic it willi others, I suhjoiii the following price currriil, at Sui.n y, tor the year 18IS:~ I'tofltuc of tfic Ishind. 3. il. \Vhoat porJiQ o \\\v, lio .1 Barlt'V, do. • • 4 6' Oats, . • • '1 ()■ Potatoes, do. C Turnips, do. 1 ;3 Ik'of, pt-r ll». 3 5 Muttuii, do. I. Fork, do. ..04 West liiilia ami Furel'^n I'rudiiic. ,1. Miiiiii/actiins, Goods olrvi-rs Iliiin, ptM- ^!il, i I (U'sciiplioii iiiav 9, Hraiid\, do. 1 i (i I'orl wine, do. I 'J Madeira, do. I i- Sicily, do. • • 0" 0' Moist sugar, I ^ piM CWl.. . j ('oti'eo, do.. . 4j l>e pineliased a), a small advance on the ISritisii price. \ f MAN ADIEU. The settlement is situate to the olSychu y, disuuil about 6'4 miles, and contains aljont thiitv families, mostly lislicnnen, Avho carry on the ('(jd and Mackarcl fishery; also large (juantities of Dog i'ish ar(^ caught for oil. The harbour, though .^nuill, would contain upw ards of one hundred sail of vessels, and is capable of admitting ships of any burthen to enter with safety: the entrance of this harbour being con- siderably exposed to an indraft from the sea, is kept continually agitated, particularly when the wind is on shore, and thereby prevented freezing, which is of ^ I siilijoiii the }car fiiiti.',// iiffictiirci. •lioii iiiuv rcliiiscd ill, II :i(lviui(-e ic Hiitisli ( 17 ) crcMt iKlvjintaL'T to consfcis in flir fiill of the year, uho arc sure ol tiiuiin:^ tht'ic an entrance and safe n'treat, thoiiiiliollcn iVoycn oiitot'otluT harbours. Tiic I tnds in this ncii^hhoiiihood are ol'^ood quality, but lit- tle attention is \n\\d to th« ir iuiproveinent, turthcr than is necessary to cultivate the small supply the settlers recjiiire lor the eousunipiion of their families: tlu^y, hnwrver, krep larne -locks of cattle, which are suj)- portcd through winter with uiarsli hay, obtuined at Seatlertt.; Island, and biou«j,l:t in v(.stels to this place. rj LouisnouiKJ. Syilnev, lit thiity Cod and Fish ar,0()()men, and called the Key of the St. Lawrence i.i\n\ (,'anada. J.ouisbourg had no sooner fallen into our hands, than it was found uiuiccessaiy to sup- port so large a garrison, as was absolutely requisite to preserve to us those formidaiile work-. The town not being well situated for the encouragement of settlers, it was thought advisable t(. demolish the works. 'J'he town, which depended nnich on the garrison, was soon abandoned, and the seat of govern- ment removed to Sydney. At pres-ent there are but few vestiges of the town and fortilications remaining ; a bomb proof, some old cellars, and walls and mounds ! .^ 1/4 k / W- • 1 i; ■fr-: , ' ( 18 ) of earth, in different parts, convry only an iinpcvftct idea of the perl'cclion to wliicli it luul anivcd. About 30 tamilies now reside in the liarboiir, all couitbrtably settled, but depend much on the fishery for their sup- port. It is a peculiar custom with the inhabitants of this neighbourhood to liave their Suniiner and \\inter abodes: about the fust of May they move to their summer habitations, near the shore, where they have wharfs for their vessels, and for tiie curing, and making their fish, at tlie same time conveniently situ- ated to their iniprce otf the coast, bound to the lower ports of St. Lawrence and Quebec, th»t they ar(; met by large bodies of Icebergs, which are forced through the Gut of Canao, or driven by the easterly winds into the entrance of the Gut, so as to choke the navigation : in this case the harbour of Arichat is filled up, but St. Peter's Bay, which is de- fended by the Island of Madam, would then afford the safest and most desirable shelter: for the want of this information vessels oiten get into gieat danger, and receive severe damage. St Peter's Bay never freezes. bcrou, and racts ol fine r the rcccp- h good and lowever not .t a pilot, or SHORE TO THE GUT OF CANSO. From St. Peter's to the Gut of Canso is about 15 miles; the navigation and scenery is beautiful; but we meet with very little land that is worthy of the farmei's attention until we arrive at the river Inhabitant: the shores, however, of the Island of Madam arc well occupied by Arcadian fishermen, who have formed themselves into villages. c 2 i ( 20 ) ARICHAT. Avichat, in the Island of Madam, is at present con- sidered the most extensive settlement belonging to Cape lireton, and was occupied by the French, the ancestors of the present occupiers, before tlie capture of the Island in 1758. The fisheries are carried on here to a large extent by houses from Jersey, which export chiefly dried Cod and Haddock; also pickled Mackarel, Gaspereaux, and Herrings, to the Mediter- ranean, West Indies, and American markets. The settlers here nre chiefly fishermen, each family having a vessel from 40 to .90 tons burden, which is fitted out and manned by themselves, and the profits ac- cruing are mutually divided amongst them. GUT OF CANSO. The Gut of Canso is the name given to the mnch-admircd navigable straight, which separates the Island of Cape Breton from the Province of Nova Scotia, and is about 1 8 miles in length, and about one mile in breadth: the whole distance affords safe an- chorage for ships of the largest size. The shores are generally high and appear at first view to afil)rd but litde encouragement to the farmer. The old inhabi- tants state the lands to have been at one time well ( ^21 ) esent con- onging to cnch, the !C capture carried on ey, which 50 pickled iter- ets. The lily having 1 is fitted profits ac- wooiltu), but the trees have been cut down to supply vessels with fuel, while some persons, whose business or amusenicnt carri<:;d thcni to encamp on the shores, have, inadvertently and carelessly comuiunicatcd fire to the underwoods, which has destroyed the herbage, and blackened and damaged the appearance of the country: however, tiiey assure me, that persons not so easily prejudiced, had scM;tlcd there, and are now become opulent by their industry; that their lands, when cultivated, produce fine crops, and that a ready market and a cheap supply of every necessary they require amply reward their labour an;l expecta- tions. It is from the high and mountainous shores of this pait of the Island that large quantities of Gyptum or Plaister of Paris is procured and exported to the southern parts of the United Stales of America, and there esteemed the most valuable manure for that soil. !n to the tarates the of Nova about one Is safe an- shores are afford but Id inhabi- time well PORT HOOD, OR JUSTICOQUE. Having I'ft the Gut of Canso, \vc pass through a most fertile country, called Port Hood, or Jus iccujue: the settlers here iire beco.ning very numerous, and are settling back four or five miles from the shore : these people depend entirely on the produce of tlieir ftnns, and raise large stocks of cattle, wtiich are ex- ported to Newfoundland, c 3 - V ( 2C5 ) MARGEREE. Margeree is situate on a river brand lirij:^ into the country, and takinjr its source from lakes in the inte- rior, some of which have very lately been discovered : the borders of the river are a species of soil, called Intervale, a name given by the settlers to low lands that have been made by the sediment of the river, which is composed of the dead leaves and washings of the mountains, and deposited in the spring and fail of the year, when the swellings of the river occasion large tracts to be overflowed : the soil thus formed is a dark strong loom, of a friable nature, and is from five to six feet deep, without any appearance of sand or gravel stones. This soil is full of vegetable matter, and in its wild state produces a large growth of Elm and Oak Trees underneath, the herbage is extremely luxuriant. This species of land, when improved, is well adapted for meadow ground, and produces from three to four tons per acre : it is also well adapted for dairy or pasture ground. Margeree is allowed to be the finest rjver on the Jsland for the sq,lmon fishery. CAPE NORTH. The lands, tnough mountainous, are capable of improvement; and the few settlers there have good farms, and seem comfortable and wealthy. ( 23 ) ST. ANN'S. .T- into the the inte- coverrd ; il, cnWvd 3w lands he river, washinjts g and fall occasion brmed is i is from ^ of sand e matter, h of Ehn :xtremciy roved, is ices from ipted for ed to he fishery. pable of Lve good St. Ann's is one of the finest liarbours on the coast, but the settlement, for want of inhabitants, is still in its in^'ncy. The fishery is carried on here with great profit. INGONISH. The lands in this neighbourhood appear to have been originally improved by the French: thev are still clear of trees, except in partial spots, and they are of a fir scrubby growth: the lands are generally covered with grass; and I was informed, bv some of the settlers, that there are many wild mtc^Jows in the vicinity, from which some hundred tons of hay might be procured; but the lands appear very stoncy, and the want of an harbour is much against the present settlement of these lands. BRADECK. Bradcck is a settlement noted for that species of soil, which I have aire tdy described at Margen c, by the settlers called Intervile. The farmers in this settlement confine their attention to the improvement of their lands, and are handsomely rewarded for their industry, c4 m ( 24 ) A General D( scrip/ ion of the hitvrior of the f.sland, on a tour through the Brasdor Lake; uith some account oj the Aatiie Indians. Having, with rapid steps, passed aronnd the exte- rior of the Ishiiid, and touchtd on the prominent features of tlie harbours and infant s( ttlements, I come now to survey the interior of the CoU^ny, by a tour round the Brasdor Lake, This Lake, at the present period, so interesting to the contemplative mind of tlic public, is a vast sheet of water, near forty miles in ieniith, and in some places not less than fifteen in brcadtii, into which many rivers, laruje cnougli to admit small vessels, and lakes of a smaller description are contiimally discharging themselves: so noted are tlic peculiar advantages which from this inland sea are presented to the eye of the spectator, that if has always been the subject of enquiry of those * persons who have visited the Colony, and many have proceeded to the uninhabited shores of the Lake, for the purpose of witnessing the scenery and appearance of this infant and promising country. my pi or una oft Cl'Ci nic. ol ?cctator, of those ny have tike, for balance )al!ioui>ie me days rtli, and e adv;ia« i '< ( 25 ) In the summer of 1817, haviiirf sonic leisure on my liancls, I determined to pass a short time in cx- phjrin'4 the lakes, of wliieii till then I was generally unacquainted, entertaining at the time l)nt a faint idea of them, -ueh as passing hastily through a country may creation the mind of the traveller. Having connnu- nie.ited to some of mv fiiends at Sydney mv intention of proceeding on tla; voyage, thc^y advised that I shf)u!d enjploy Indians, who were the best })ilots, and tli>it with their canoe I sh(juld proceed Mith cond'ort, and he easily l.uidcil at tlie dilferent places where I chose to direet tlicui. I sliali here take the opportunity of giving some account of tiie Aborii^ines or native Indians, tlu;ir re- ligion, and habits, and the encom'agement held out by Government to this deseri[>tion of inhabitants. The native Indians, in ai)pearari{;e, resemble our gypsies; tiiey consist of about ()0() of the Mic-mac tribe, that profess tiie Itoman Catholic religion : they are still governed bv a Cliief, but who has at |)resent little power or contioul over them. The Indians are of a low stature, ami although not strong, are well made: the women are in general ill-featured, with a dull and vacant countenaitce. The Ciiapel is one of ihc finest buildings on the Island, and j)rayers are rigidly performed, and punctually attended by the Indians. A Priest, appointed by llie ('atholic I'ishop of Twebee, visits tin. ni twice a year, when all the i £' f ( 25 ) Ittdiatts of tlie Island, n ith many families from the contiguous bhorc of Nova Scotia, as.srmhle togctiier: tlie Priest remains with them ab ;Ut a fortnight each time, during wiiich they marry and clul-tcn their children, and confess. The Indians are continually M-andering from one part of the Inland to tiie other: they transport themselves along the shore in canoes: their baggage usually consists of a blanket, a musket, an \ T, or tomahawk, and a large iron pot for coi^k- ing; also the peltry and featliers they have collected. Their canoe is constructed of the bark of a birch tree, and is very light, so that a man can carry it alone for several miles through the woods, when occasion requires: when they arrive at a place, where they intend tarrying, they erect a wigwam, by placing several long poles upright, in the shape of a tent, which they cover over with bark, leaving a space open at the top for the smoke to pass. In the centre of this camp they make their fire, and there can be but little doubt but this confinement, in intolerable heat and smoke, as well as exposure to the sun, gives the dark tinge of colour to the Indian tribes. After tiicy have settled themselves in this manner, they continue fishing or hunting until the season ex- pires, or until they have destroyed most of the wild animals of the neighbouring forests, when necessity obliges them to seek other parts of the country better supplied for their purpose. neigi K-^-^- ^ roin the ogctlier : liht each cu tlicir itinnally c ytljcr: Citnoes ; niu>l\et, or co\Mj iiiid j>Kuit<(l. ti •; rfnuiuiidcr hvlun used U3 mcudovi' jziound: in the ci'ntre of the clearing stood the dMcllini; house, con- structed of square logs dovctailrd into ciich other, and covered over at liie top witii i^hinylcs; in tlic inside a cleanliness and neatness of anangcnient aeenicd to bespeak peculiar comfort and content; and I iiad an opportiuiity of rralizino; what I Irjd anticipated hctbre, that its industrious inn)atc« provided and enjoyed a frugal supply of every neccfssary of ii!e. Having set out with a determination to tiain a knowledge ot the country, and of the (hilicultirs at first to he con- tended with in improving on wilderness lands, and the day being biid for the purpose of jirosecuting my journey, I ft It anxious to im|)rove it, by obtaining all the information conceinirig this industrious and conv fortable settler, and was nnich pleased to find, that he had no objection to gratify me in this particular. He stated, that Iv: was born in Scothuul, and had years before been induced, by the suggestions of his friends, to proceed to Piince Kdward Island, where he had made u temporary settlement ut a village, called Cherry Valley : it was there be received the first intellii(nce of tiie Brastior; and with several of his friends afterwards hired a fishing boat, in order to satisfy themselves of tla^ truth of the reports they had heard: the result v/as, they found every expectation realized, and before they returned, obtained orders of survey for two hundred acres of land each; and the 1 I : in tlic ISO, coii- iicr, and le insiflc cincd to [ lind an ^clore, enjoyed Ilijvini^ !t'(lsj;c ot 1)0 con- (Is, and iting my inino; nil i(i coin- id, that rticular. and liad 5 of his , where village, ^ed the vcial of )rfler to icy Jiad !Ctation orders nid the , ( o\ ) aufnnin lollowing he removed lliitluT with his family, consisting of a wife and tiirce children, the eldest of whom was a daughter only fourteen years of age. It was now near three years since their arrival, at which tinjc the lot was entirely covered with wood ; the first winter they were occupied in creeling a camp, and clearing ahout three acres of hind, which he sowed and planted the next .s[)ring: during the sum- mer he was also occupied in clearing land, and occa- sionally finding employment in the neighhouriiood, it enahled him to purchase supplies for hia family until harvest: the first crop produced him enough to sup- port his family duiing winter; antl the last year he had a considerahle quantity to dispose of, hy which he was enahled to purchase three C(iws; and the present year he had bought a marc and a horse, besides se- veral pigs: his farm, which cost him about £]^2. was now valued at X-00. Being thus provided for him- self, he now proposed to discharge his parental duty, and to apply for a grant of land for his j'amily, that they might be comfortably situated near his own farm The next morning proving fine, having procured a supply of provisions, and the Indians having provided themselves with the necessary fire-works to encanip, we {)rocecded in the canoe, and I was happy to find, that the Indians I had eini^loycd were men well ac- quainted with every part of the shore, and qualified to give me the information I required. On set- ! ft ( 32 ) tm^' ofi] 1 (Irlcnninctl to proceed bv cusv st;i'M ^ to St. Peter's, li(l(; of tlie hike; about three miles helow (Jurie's. I ohserNed the braiulMve Mere on emptied itself into liie grand lake; eight families were settled in this (li-;iance; tln.'v had only hcgnn their eleariniis: the land< ^tiil retained a similar appcaranee of lertility. lleing informed that an Indian oavhcmI and possessed a farm close in the neighbonrhood, 1 had miieli curio- sity to see the i)remises. and desired to be landed, at which niv Indians were highly delighted, beinu anxions to meet some of their relations; the iinpro\emuits contained about fifteen acres of tine land, a small j)art of wiiich was planted with j^otaloes: the exterior of the cottage in which they resided appeared rather neat to the rye; bnt on entering 1 was much disap- jiointed at finding it to be but a shell, wiihout any floor or chimney : in the centre they had made their lire, and the lieat and smoke were intolerable ; in short, it was furnished and nscd as a wiiiwam. From the appearance of these people, considering the (jua- lity of the soil, and the time they had occupied it, I pitied their ignorance, and the entire want of that industry and stability, which can alone afford a pros- pect of succes£^ in any pursuit in life : they knew nothing of the improvement of lands, nor possessed perseverance enough to overcome the apparent difficulties at first to be contended with : they were entire strangers to comfort and cleanliness. ft H-- ( OJ ) o iir next staiie \v ilcs further, at the fis eleven miics turtner, house of one Roderick M'Neal, where I determined to pass the ni from the shore rise with a sudden declivity, and be- come hilly and mountainous, hut fertile. W'c had not gone above a mile before we arrived at a valley, co- vered with a forest of vast trees, and beneath pro- ducing a most luxuriant herbage: the land here was level, and of a strong black pliable loam: we conti- nued along this strip of land, (for we afterwards dis- covered it to be not more than a mile in width): after having crossed it in several places for several miles, in expectation that it would lead us to some lake or wild meadow; but night approaching, we thought prudent to return, in order to prepare our can)p. Having arrived within sight of the shore, we began to prepare our habitation for the night: the spot chosen for the purpose was on the declivity of a hill, conveniently si- tuated to a fine stream of water, and a large hollow pine tree being split into i)lanks supplied us Mith covering ( 35 ) :o lueu hboiira' lie next ouii; vIk' net with y pcnc- tlie qua- icss: N\e T carried he laii(l-> and be- '. had not lUcv, CO- ath pro- be re was we coiUi- ards dis- th): after miles, in :e or wild prudent Having o prepare n for the niently si- 3II0W pine covering lor a shed, which we erected, shmting against the side of the hill: beneath the shed a quantity of spruce bouglis were laid, on wliich we were to sleep. The camp being finished, tiie next object was to kindle a iire, which was soon accomplished, having plenty of *punk, which the Indians substitute for tinder. There being no scarcity of fuel, an immense fire was made close in front of the camp, and as darkness approached, the blaze emitted became awful and grand : the night being calm, the Indians requested permission to lisli for eels, which the neighbourhood was noted to produce : I accompanied them from motives of curiosity ; the canoe was launched, we entered it, the Indians standing one at each end, with spears in their hands : I held the torch in the centre of the canoe, which burnt, producing a light like a link or torch : the astonishing effect of the light on the water was so great, that at the depth of twelve or fourteen feet, which was tlie length of the spear, we could distinctly discern every object at the bottom : the small llock Cod, Perch, and Flounders, of which there were abundance, appeared stupiHed rather than frightened by the effect of the light : when the Indians observed any particular fish^ which they wished to to take, they brought the canoe gently within reach, * A species of rotten wood, D2 ( 36 ) and would throw the spear \Aith c;reai agility and skilful attitude. Having taken what fish wc required, we returned to the camp, and cooked it; and, I think, I never enjoyed a meal of superior fish of the kind, nor better cooked under the circumstances, tlian by the Indians. After supper the Intiians rolled them- selves in their bUmkets, and laying with their heads to the lire, were soon sound asleep: being unaccustomed myself to such scenes, and the novelty of encampment, I got little rest, and found the night tediously long. Early next morning we set off and arrived at the Red Island settlement, five miles distance from the camp, and put up at the house of a Mv. Campbel: the Red Island settlement contains about fourteen families, who have formed themselves into a scatterincr villaue: the land is rather hilly, and, I think, stony; but the crops looked remarkably well, and the inhabitants, who were comfortably settled, assured me that they had no fault to find with it. I learned that the set- tlement was commenced aoout the year 1809, since which time the inhabitants, who had commenced with little or nothing, had become respectably settled, possessing large stocks of catde, and fine farms. Our landlord stated, that he kept a house of entertain- ment, which might become of great advantage to him, from the number of travellers that were dailv in- creasing; that boats would be shortly established as packets and for regular traders between St. Peter's and the town of Sydney ; and would be of essential bene- s.i ( ^7 ) fit to tlir settlements on tlic lakes: at present they ucrc uiRJer the necessity of keeping their own vessels, and of carrying their produce to market, and bringinj^ home their supplies from Sydney or St. Peter's, ol)- serving, that at either of those places they could dis- pose of their produce, and purchase Wiiatever supplies they stood in need of. A quantity of netting lianging near the chimney next attracted my attention, on uiiich my landlord continued: — th •*; in the Spring and fall of the year they took whatever quantity of Mackarel and Herrings they required to salt for Winter use ; that during the AV'inter season tlie lake wtis irenerallv frozen over, .strop.": enough to bear the heaviest teams, at m hich period, witliin a few hundred yards of their own doors, by cutting holes through the ice, they could take abundance of fine cod and haildock. The lake also contained other species of fish; Salmon, Trout, Shad, Gaspcreanx, Bass, &c. were to be found in abundance; and in the spring the creeks and rivulets 'Aero filled with Snielts : those fish have Ijeen known to be shovelled out to manure the soil with. We had now arrived within eleven miles of St. Peters: next mominir wc went to view i\Ir. M'Xah's farm, about three miles distant, situate on a small river, or inlet. This grant contained one thousand ^cres, about one half of which appeared to be tillable ■'I 4 I I \ L ( 3S ) I [ r Imiil. The worthv settlor, 1 understand, was at onr time in affluent circunistanccs, hut throuuli niistbr- tnne Iwd been neecb-iitated to abandon his iVicnds, uith whom he -was accustomed to associate, and seek a livehhood abroad : he was the fust settler on that pai't oi the lake, having retired there with his family, consisting of a wife, a dauglit(-r, and three sons, to- tally unaccustomed to the woods of Auierica, and witiiout having any neighbour nearer than St. Pet(M*s, to affoid him assistance: it was here he cut down the first tree in his life and had to contend with superior diiHculties; but to his credit i)e it said, he now soars al)0ve the frowns of fortune. We now proceeded to the Indian Inland, six miles from St. Peter's, the lake grew sen.>ibly narrower, and several Islands made their appearance, between which we had to pass: the land began to assume a more sterile appearance, being covered with black spruce, a sure intlication of Avct land. This Island contains about one hundred and tifty acres, and is reserved bv Government for the use of the Indians, who have erected there a handsome Ciiapel, and a house for the Priest, who at- tends there twice a year, when the Indians have their ruetings: only part of the Island is iuiproved, about eight acres are planted in potatoes and Indian corn pro- misees a good crop: about two miles beyond the Island, Mr. Scot has a good farm: after which we see little worth noticing, the lands being \cry inferior, until ue arrive witiiin siiiht of St. Peter's. This settlement lies ^^^ ( '^t> ) uii a i.ariuw isthmus, tliat .si'pavates the w atci^ of the lake i'lom St, Peter's hay, and is the properlv oi Mr. Kavauaivh, a considerable nierciuuit resithiiLi; there: this is the must vahiabk: e^tate on the Kiaiui, and is }»artieuiarly nell adapted tor liis pursuits, eoninunuhng the trade of the lakes on tlie one siile, and an exten- sive and hicrative fisiiery on the other: about four hundied acres of the pro})ei ty is improved, and m a good state of cultivation, the propiietor spurinii; no expence about the farm : twenty men are usually employed in working it; and 1 understand the lavin not only covers the expenses incurred, but makes a iiandsome and profitable return: the Mackarel fishery bel<.)nifin" to the estate is said to be the best on the Island, and two hundred Vaniis arc frequently taken at one haul of tlie scene. Having passed a i'v.w of the pleasantest days I recollect at the house of this gentleman, whose hospitality 1 must ever rellcct on with gratitude, we prepared to leave St. i\ lers, and complete our tour by returning along the north shore of the lakes to Sydney. Having communicated suci) my intention to the Indians, who, du';ing my sliiy, occupied a wig-wam, at the edge of a neighbouiing wood, we set otf on our return. About nine miles from St. Peter's we perceived that tlic lake branched to the north-west, and ran towardsr the Gut of Canso: we followed the course a few miles, and found much good land, but very little improved and culti- vated; and in some places there appeared many fine 1 \ ^■■***r \'- n V I / ^ J \^ 1 I ( 40 ) timber trees fit to niiinurnrture for transjiortatioii : can- timiini; our rrtiini alonir the shore, we eiimc to a number of settlers, all of whom appeared to be doin:^ well. Tills side of the lake is moreijoiKriilly resortetl to than the south shore; but we found nothiii^ material to induce us to deviate from our former obsei\atioiis respcctiii wither; may be For culting down, rU';iiiii{^ ofl', rciifinsj, and sowiii;; with ulu-at iiiid ru', five iiort-s of wildoriKSs land, at the curiTiit price of llie cou.itry, lit'iii;; jfc' 1-. \wr aav, Expohcc of saving the crop uiid thriishint;, Crop produced per acre, 1'2 bushels. 5 acres planted. Produce, Ids. (Jo at 7?. 0(/. per £20 .£'3 X' L'J oduce, Ids. DU ai is. od. per -j hiishel, •• ci!^'2 10 O V ^22 10 Slr.w, .. XO J By this estimate it will appear that the fnsterop nearly repays the whole of the expence: the next year the latid ought to l)e planted witli potatoes, whieli restores it; and the year following it will be tit for laying down to meadow, which is usually sown with oats: potatoes and turtiips produee well on liie new burnt lands, and require no other manure. It is thus the settler pro- gressively advances, until his industry, in a short time, has provided him with the means of kee[)ii)g a stock of cattle, and of procuring every cohifort and luxury the country affords. 1 ■ . ■ J E 2 / *<• ( 44 ) riuving thus exhibited tlie pfciiliur advaiitaL'c.^ possessed by the infant Island of Cajxi Breton, and ilischarged my duty to Society, I shall conclude the present subject, requesting to remind tiie indulgent reader, that notw ithstanding what lias been said, it is not every individual, nho arrives as a settler on the Island, that is sure to be happily and independently settled, for there arc a few examjjles to the con- trary; but these may be traced to the abuses of a kind country, and appear to be the punishment of indolence and vice; and only tend to prove, that virtuous industry alone will insure happiness with riches. f ■^ K • f^i '■''■■-. London ; Printed by T, Tuylor, Hroinpton. T Mi \' " f .1 • f m. fc^$^ \ \ ^ ■iL. 'J^^'i ^ y.^^.