IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT»3) // 1.0 I.I 2.2 lii ¥- nm 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 M 6" ► ^ v2 <9^' o *>. V / /f!^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ^^ <5v ^ »" ^ mv -^\\ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 072-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notas/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filnraing. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers danaged/ n Couverture andommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque r~~| Coloured maps/ Cartos giographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) nj] Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ □ □ Planches et/ou illustrations nn couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior maigin/ La reliure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion !e long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties iors d'une restauration appairaissent dans le texte, mals, lorsque cala itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas M filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires: L'institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les ditaiis de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qu! peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une mortification dans la methods normale de filmage sent indiqu6s ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur n n Pages damaged/ Pages endommagies Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restauries et/ou pelliculAes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tacheties ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es Showthrough/ Transparence I I Quality of print varies/ Quality in6gale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppl6mentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible D Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed To ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont M fiimies A nouveau de fapon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. Irregular pagination : i - [xxvi]- 17 • 18, 19^24p. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. The( to th The poss of th filmi Origi begii the I sion, othe firs: sion, or ill The shall TINl whic Map diffe entii begi righi requ metl 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 1 y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or iliustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the firsl page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in u.ie exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire filmd, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimde sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autras exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent §tre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droits, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 1 .. " 5 6 i w^ W ldi £ mk ^ hi |1 3r* ^ P c-4 I4 ■^i 1 i L»s m M X^v-- /V^Xv XV XW^N^s^'K*'; y^H,^ .>' ^^;^-v' ;s^ 7v^ .:v^>^^'' >.''■ >Vv r'— •* *' *»t.', ftTtS^j % '•,i.>-«4.>^ S* Wl*w*tilfc<,- "i'-. %. \ ■ n X H w^ ONDERS #Tro ROPICS OR EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES OP HENRY M. STANLEY AND OTHER WORLD -RENOWNED TRAVELERS* INCLUDING J^ivingstone, ^aker, Cameron, Speke, ^min f asha, Pu Chaillu, Ai^dersson, etc., etc. CONTAINING ^hPillingMccount^ of Famous Expeditions, MIRACUI.OUS ESCAPES, WIT-D SPORTS OF THE JUNGLE AND PLAIN, CURIOUS CUSTOMS OF SAVAGE RACES, JOURNEYS IN UN- KNOWN LANDS, AND MARVELOUS DISCOVERIES * IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA, TOGETHER WITH GRAPHIC DESCRIPTIONS OF BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, FERTILE VALLEYS, VAST FORESTS, MIGHTY RIVERS AND CATARACTS, INLAND SEAS, MINES OF UNTOLD WEALTH, FEROCIOUS BEASTS, ETC., ETC. THE WHOLE COMPRISING A Vast Treasury of all that is Maroelous and Wonderful IN THE DARK CONTINENT. By henry davenport NORTHROP, D. D., Author of '* Earth, Sea, and Sky,*' etc., etc. Embellished witli more than 200 gtril^ing Illustpations. THE EARLE PUBLISHING HOUSE, ST. JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK. ii l^^'l Ni 7 2S0065 filtered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by J. R. JONES, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D, C The ^^ greatest c ^ record ( times, des fhe briljfa, which ha^ admiration The woi Stanley's ej y^^ng sold Pondent of -^^rica to fi "^arveJous c Stanley's f The reader i ships and per richness and scenery, the s customs of its Before the \ the thickest J ui monies a smoot axe hews down and crosses inl have baffled the The reader sh after thQ most h Stanley's next Congo, is so fuj r^-solution. that h ^'n^es. HevanisJ ;?°nths pass, and Curiosity as to liis ,r»ole suspense. S( PREFACE. *^e Wonderful di ' ~ """-h have awakeneH r°''°"' "'<='' ^^dbeit; ;.,'•'" '"^'""S^. ' Af-ca to find the Zf"'' "'"^ J°"">a! ""sud^' ^°'"" '^ '=°"-"^ Stanleys first great io, • '"'"'" "P°" his The reader f„ii-'°''™«y 'n the Dart, r • ''''•P^andpe^ 'Tnd ■'"^ ""^'■'^ "plorrr^^.^-' ■--id/y descWbed -"ness and t^Wety^:"™^^' "''"" *■■" '^m X^: f^^ °f his hard"' ' "xe hews down sturdtT' *'" *"'™a's "ee in h,' ^^ ''"^2^'' Pass be- -d crosses .nlnTtf.T'n*^ '"^^'•' ""°e des'rV"' ^"-"n have baffled the world fl; lu °"'' C°"«ne„t IZZ '^?'""'"S rapids I The reader .shares til thrmT'^ °' y^^^^- "" "' ""^'^ ">« after the most h», "" °f excitement i„ StanieyCL r;:,--ff , ""d' I-'V "J; oltd 'f'"''''' ^ ^'-^X. Congo, is so full ^ I! ?''^°'" Zanzibar right acrn f^"'^' '"'' ''«di '-■solution that V ^"'""^ adventure sf Jf' "'^~n«nenttoth, months pass, and no i„T , "^'" "^ ">« cmTed^ IT"""" of our Cfosityastohrsat^Cm^''"'' '=°-"" from heT' . IV^e"^' and :"ble suspense. SeasonsXh:,' If '^' '"' '"^ -^- "Si ^''^'°'^^- . ">— dsandstil,„oJJ;--oter- (0 PREAFCE. After untold privations, daring deeds and amazing triumphs, Stanley emerges from the wilds of the Dark Continent amidst the acclamations of both hemispheres. The nineteenth century records no triumph more sublime than that of crossing, from sea to sea, this wild country, which had hitherto baffled all attempts to explore its silent mysteries. But the dazzling achievements of our great hero were not completed, Emin Pasha was located somewhere in the tropical wilderness, and struggling to hold the country of which he was ruler. Again Stanley hastened to the rescue ; again he was lost in the wilds of Africa ; again the interest of the world was awakened concerning his fate; and in this last great triumph he has put the climax upon all his previous explorations and victories, having crossed the Dark Continent again, this time from west to east. This work also gives a full and thrilling account of the marvelous dis- coveries of other world-renowned travelers in the Tropics. The reader is made a fellow-explorer with the immortal Livingstone, who traversed boundless regions where the foot of civilized man had never trod; with Sir Samuel Baker, Speke and Grant, whose daring expeditions in Central Africa place them in the front rank of modern heroes; with Du Chaillu, Cameron, Andersson, Baldwin and others, whose undaunted bravery in the face of danger, and victories over bloodthirsty savages and wild beasts, have a resistless fascination. A brilliant panorama of tropical wonders passes before the reader's gaze. He traverses vast and fertile plains, luxuriant valleys and desert wastes. He sees savage tribes in their curious costumes ; their strange marriai^e customs ; their ludicrous superstitions ; their reckless deeds of violence ; their monstrous social and religious rites, involving the frightful sacrifice of human life. He witnesses grotesque war-dances ; singular frealf s of medicine men and rain makers; and strange antics of wizards. He beholds the majestic lion, the gigantic hippopotamus and fierce crocodile, monkey tribes, gorillas and venomous boa-constrictors, the fleet-footed ostrich, giraffe and zebra, the huge rhinoceros and bounding gazelle, and the ponderous elephant jarring the earth with his heavy tread. He wit- nesses the adventures of the chase, and deeds of daring surpassing the most startling tales of romance. He is captivated with tropical birds arrayed in plumage of unrivalled beauty, and with brilliant forms of insect life, wonderful as the gigantic beasts of the plain and jungle. Stanley's recent expedition for the relief of the world-renowned Emin Pasha fixes upon him the gaze of all civilized peoples. The latest adven- tures and discoveries are fully narrated in this work. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. A Remarkable Man— Solving the Mysteries of the Dark Continent— Stanley's Birth in Wales — Sent in Early Life to the Almshouse at St. Asaph — A Teacher in Flint- shire—Struggling to Obtain Means for an Education — The Restless Spirit Show- ing itself— Seeking the New World— A Cabin Boy, Bound from Liverpool to New Orleans— The Welsh Boy Adopted by Stanley of New Orleans — Honesty and Capacity of the Boy— Death of Stanley's Benefactor— No Property Falls to the Adopted Son — Stanley in California— A Free and Happy Life Among Bold Ad- venturers — The School of Human Nature — Power of Endurance and Readiness for Daring Enterprises — Carrying the Knapsack and Rifle — A Soldier in the Confederate Army— Captured by Union Forces — Becomes Connected with the New York Herald— Off for the Battle-field in Turkey— Robbed by Brigands- Stanley Returns to England— The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse— Sent by James Gordon Beijnett with the British Abyssinian Expedition — Stanley's Messages First to Reach London — Livingstone Lost in Africa — Remarkable Midnight Interview with Mr. Bennett— "Find Livingstone at any Cost" 17 CHAPTER IL THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. Africa a World of Surprises and Wonders — ^Journeys of Livingstone — The Younj< Scotch Boy — Born of Noble Parentage— An Ancestry of Sturdy Scotch Qualities- David's Factory Life — Eager Thirst for Knowledge — Tending the Loom, with One Eye on His Book — Studying Latin — A Lover of Heroic Deeds— Early Promise of Rising to Distinction — Resolves to Become a Medical Missionary in China — Departure for Africa — Physical Nerve and Endurance —Encounter with a Ferocious Lion — Livingstone's Narrow Escape — Gordon Cumming's Descrip- tion of the Noble Beast — A Powerful Animal — Beauty of the Lion — Roar ot the Forest King— Frightful Ferocity — The Lion's Fearlessness — Requirements of lion Hunters— Brave Character of Livingstone 33 CHAPTER III. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. Livingstone's Life Among the Backwains — An Intelligent Chief— Trying to Whip the Heathen into Conver.-^ion — Appearance of the Backwains — Peculiar Head- Dress— Expert Thieves— A Bewitched Kettle — A Horrible Deed— An African Congress— Thrilling War Songs—Carrying oa War for Glory— Li vingstone'f. (iii) 1^ I CONTENTS. Interest in this Tribe— Singular Superstitions— Medicine Men and Rain Doctors- Barbarous Practices — Severe Training for Boys — The Girls' Ordeal— Romantic Dances— Construction of Houses— Curious Burial Customs— Funeral Dances Among the Latookas— An Active Chief— The Rich No Better Than the Poor- Odd Decorations -Graceful Movements 47 I t CHAPTER IV. A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. Livingstone's Great Interest in the Makololo Tribe — The Fate of Ancient Nations — Extraordinary Changes in Southern Africa — Obscure Origin of the Hottentots- Displaced by the More Powerful Kaffirs— The Great Chief of the Makololo— Severe Punishment for Cowards — A Royal Young Snob — Fear of the Ferocious Lion — Headlong Charge of the Buffalo upon Hunters — Livingstone's Story of His Wagon — A Race in Eating — Frightful Battle with Hippopotami— Frail Boat Surrounded by Ugly Brutes — Superior Makololo Women — Mode of Building Houses — Strong Walls and Thatched Roofs— Strange Ideas of a Boatman — Offenders Flung to Crocodiles— Dividing the Spoils of Hunting— Sports of African Children— A Queen's Opinion of White People — Better Looking than she Imagined— A Grotesque anii Exciting Dance 77 CHAPTER V. PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. Remarkable Successes of Livingstone — Forming a Station in the Wilderness — The Explorer Builds a House— . Search for a Great Lake— A Desert with Prodigious Herds of Wild Animals— Starting on a Perilous Journey — Wagons Left in Charge of Natives— Travelling in Frail Canoes — Haunts of the Hippopotami— Thrilling Adventure with Crocodiles— Frantic Struggles to Escape from Death— Shooting the Huge Monster— Seized with a Sudden Horror— A Great Splash and a Cry of Joy— Ancient Crocodiles with Immense Jaws — Exciting Encounter with a River-Horse— A Remarkable Chief— Rivers' and Swamps Breeding Fevers — Reaching the Banks of the Zambesi— Prevalence of a Troublesome Fly — A Magnificent River — Livingstone's Journey of a Thousand Miles with his Family — Ma' cious Attack by the Dutch Boers — Livingstone's House Plundered — The Explorer Reaches the Capital of the Makololo — Cqrdial Welcome from the Natives — The Young King Has a Rival — Ascerding the Great River Zambesi — Attempt on the Life of the King — Makololo Architecture — A Grand Dance — Expedition to the West— The Balond^ Country— A Visit to Shinti— Scarcity ol Food — Arrival at Loanda— Attacked by Savages— On the Leeba — Arrival at Linyanti 98 CHAPTER VI. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. Dangers of River Navigation— Luxuriant Wild Fruits—Skillful Management of Canoes by Natives— Magnificent Scenery—Man Seized by a Crocodile— Beautiful Flowers and Wild Honey— Strapping Chief\;aines3 Smeared with Fat and Red Ochre- Pompous Chief— Curious Piano—Portujiuese Traders— Warm Reception to the CONTENTS 1^ Explorers -Lifting off Roofs of Houses to Cover the Travellers— A Chief who Killed His Subjects for Amusement— Remarkable Custom for Cementing Friendship- Tricksters who Want Money— Livingstone Suffers from Fever— Savage Attack upon the Expedition— U.-^ing Charm-; and Cupping for Sickness— Black Corpora! for an Escort— Beautiful Country Going to Waste— Vast Herds of Cattle— An Ornamental Garden — Natives Astonished by Strange Sights— Generous Gifts < f Jolly Tars— "Stones that Burn"— An Attractive Town— The Irrepressible Doi • key— Strange Belief in Evil Spirits -Grotesque Head-dressts— Fine Sport with the Gun— The Expedition Travelling in Small Canoes — Livingstone Charged by a Buffalo — Noisy Welcome to the Explorers— Troops of Elephants 103 CHAPTER VII. ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. Livingstoyie's Resolve to Reach the East Coast— A Fine Race of Negroes— One hun- dred and fourteen Trustworthy Men— The Brave Leaders of the Company — A Terrib/e Storm— Sailing Down the River — Far famed Victoria Falls — Scene of Extreme Beauty — Ascending Clouds of Spray — Immense Baobab Tree — Strange Mode of Salutation— Traffic in Ivory— Buffalo Brought Down wilh the Rifle — Presents from a Peace-loving Chief^Vast Numbers of Wild Animals — Huge Hippopotami and their Young — How the Natives Capture Elephants — Strange Appearance of the Natives — Mouths like those of Ducks— Hostilities by a Village Chief— Remains of an Old Portuguese Settlement— The Do( tor's Ox Gallops off- Strange Cries and Waving Fire-brands — Visit from two Old Men — American Cal- ico in a Far Land— Surprising Instinct of the Elephant — The Enormous Beast Taught to Work for his Master— A New Way of Laying Timbers— Remarkable Story by an English Officer — Extraordinary Sagacity of the Elephant — Dangers in the Path of the Expedition— Great Risk from Being Attacked by Lions- dread- ful Encounter with a King of the Forest--A " Civilized Breakfast "—Kind Recep- tion by an English Major—Natives who Plant Gold for Seed— Tree Supposed to Have Remarkable Medical Virtues — Four Years away from Cape Town — Ravages of Famine— A Chief who Wishes to Visit England— Seized wilh Insanity and Lost Overboard— Livingstone arrives in England 137 CHAPTER VIII. AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. Fresh Start for a Long Exploring Tour— An English Steamer in African Waters- Battle between the Portuguese and a Savage Chief— Rescue of the Governor— The " Ma-Robert " Commences Her Voyage— Astonishment of the Natives- Hardships of Travelling in the Tropics— A Swift Cataract -The Murchinson Falls— A Chief Loses His Lhtle Girl— Natives Obstructing the Exiiediiion- Searching for a Great Lake— Pursued by a Buffalo— Trap for the Hipp )pota mus— Failure to Recover the Lost Child— Singular Ideas of Female Beauty Kear ful Cry from the River— A Native's Deadly Combat with a Crocodile— Monsters Hatched from E;,'gs— Discovery of the Great Lake— Scarcity of Water— Return of the " Ma Robert "—A Conspicuous Fraud— Hostile Chief Conciliated— Abun- dance of Game and Numerous Lions— Sketch of the Batoka Tribe— Peculiar Fashion of Wearing the Hair— Masters of the Canoe-Perils among Breakers— vi CONTENTS. Very Polite Savages— Singular Customs and Ceremonies— Fearless Hunters— Na- tive Belief in a Future Existence — Melodious Sounds of Music —African Poets — Incorrigible Liars — Put to Death for Bewitching a Chief— Gang of Cattle Steal- ers — Adventure with a River Horse — Man Saved on a Rock — Tropical Chame- leon—A Marveleous Reptile— Shifting Colors — Seized by a Crocodile— Horse and Rider Terribly Wounded 159 CHAPTER IX. BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. Setting Out in a Leaky Vessel — A Losing Adventure— Bishop Mackenzie's Arrival — The " Pioneer" gets Aground— Description of a Well-known tribe— Farming in Africa— Generous Hospitality— Remarkable Costumes — Elegant Tattooing — Natives that Seldom Wash— An African Dancing Party— Belief in Visits from Departed Spirits — Burning Villages— Battle vviih Ajawa Warriors— Transporting the Boats Overland— Sudden and Terrific Storm — Air Thick with Midges- Enormous Crocodiles— Camp Plundered by Thieves— Dangers Thicken — The Expedition on its Return— Mrs. Livingstont's Arrival — Deaths of Bishop Mac- kenzie and Mrs. Livingstone — Lonely Graves in a Strange Land — Bullets and Poisoned Arrows— Immense Flocks of Beautiful Birds — The Fiery Flamingo — Wine from the Palm— A Bird's Extraordinary N'est— Odd Specimen of the Monkey Tribes — Deserted Country— Lord Russell Recalls the Expedition — Alarm from Savage Invaders — The " Pioneer" Disabled— Livingstone at Bombay igo CHAPTER X. LIVINGSTONE LOST ' THE DARK CONTINENT. Sensation Caused by Livingstone's ^ ver-is — New Expedition — Arrival at Zan- zibar—Hard March Across the C ountry- -Desertion of Sepoys— Arrival on the Shores of the Lake— No Canoes — Report of Murders by Arabs— Desertions Among the Men— Story of Livingstone's Death— Excitement in England— Expe- dition Sent to Learn the Explorer's Fate— Ravages by a Savage Tribe — Thieves in the Camp— Loss of the Medicine Chest — Sufferings from Fever — Arrival at Tanganyika— A New Lake on the West — Further Progress Stopped — Patient Waiting — Off for the New Lake at Last — Down the Lake to Cazembe's— High and Mighty Potentate— Formal Reception to Livingstone — Presents to the Chief- Shocking Stories of Human Sacrifices— Cropping off Ears and Lopping off Hands— A Tribe that Smelts Copper-ore— Hot Springs and Frequent Earth- quakes — Exploring Lake Bangweoio— Grave in the Forest — " Poor Mary Lies on iihupanga Brae " — Remarkable Discovery — Modesty of the Great Explorer.. ..219 CHAPTER XI. TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. Gi eat Excitement Among the Natives by the Presence of a White Man — Cruise on a Large Lake— Strike of Canoe-Men — Only a Coverlet with which to hire amther Canoe— Food Obtained by Shooting BiifTaloes — Fine Sport for the Hunter — How Uie Buffalo is Hunted— Thrilling Adventure with the Huge Brute— A Hotteatot CONTENTS. vu Iters— Na- in Poets— ittle Steal- al Chame- ile— Horse 159 R.S. s Arrival — Farming in rattooing— Visits from ransporting 1 Midges— icken — The lishop Mac- -Bullets and Flamingo — the Monkey Alarm from 190 ,NT. val at Zan- rival on the -Desertions and— Expe- le— Thieves — Arrival at ed— Patient ibe's-High ihe Chief— JLopping off luent Earth- ary Lies on ilorer....2i9 .PES. -Cruise on a lire antther inter— How Hotteu^ot I '9 Dodging in the Bushes— Terrible Foe— Adventure of a Friend of Livingstone— A Dangerous Meeting with Two Lions— Charge of a Mad Buffalo— Livingstone Pursues His Journey— A Country Convulsed by War— Mohammed and other Arab Traders— Flight for Life— Livingstone Pacifies the Natives— Return of Deserters— Start for Ujiji -Serious Illness— A Dauntless Ht ^—Encounter with an Elephant— Beautiful Monkeys in the Forest— Thousands of Ants on the March— Graphic Description of Manyuema— Degraded Tribe of Cannibals- Market Scene in Manyuema— Terrible Massacre — Disastrous Attempt to Go Forward— Lake Named after President Lincoln— The Explorer's Account of the Soko— Freaks of a Strange Animal— A Wild Creature that Never Attacks Women— Amusing Female Soko— Ten Men with Stores Meet Livingstone- Shocking Barbarity— Hundreds of Lives Lost— Shameful Cruelty and Destruc- tion — Off on Foot for Ujiji— Near to Death— People Who Eat Their Enemies- Arrival at Ujiji— Sick, Worn out and in Desperate Straits ..246 CHAPTER XII. STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE. Livingstone Traced to Ujiji— Search Expedition Organized in England— Alarm and Sorrow at the News of Livingstone's Death — News Discredited by Sir Roderick Murchison— Mr. Young Sent Out to Find the Lost Explorer— The Little Steel Vessel — The Expedition Hears of a White Man— Traces of Livingstone — Natives Know Livingstone by His Photograph— Cheering News— Another Search Expe- dition—Money Eagerly Subscribed— Men Selected for the Undertaking— Stanley Leads the Way— Stanley on the March— Guides, Carriers and Donkeys — Band Music and Lively Songs— Natives Carrying Heavy Burdens on their Heads — Perils and Difficulties of the Journey — Qualities Required in an Explorer — Tangled Brake and Wild Animals— The Ferocious Rhinoceros— Excitements of the Chase— A Monster Fleet as a Gazelle— Conflict Between an Elephant and Rhinoceros — Mr. Oswald s Narrow Escape — The Hunter Scarred for Life- Stanley s Misfortunes — Sentence of Flogging on a Deserter — The Donkey Whip- Daughter of an Infamous King — Urging Forward the Caravan - Sending Away a Sick Man — Stanley Frightens an Arab Sheik — Across Marshes and Rivers — Half Buried in a Swamp— Stanley's Graphic Account— Pursuit of a Runaway — The Fugitive Captured— Two Dozen Lashes and Put in Irons— The Captor Re- warded—Coral Beads for a Native's Wife 277 CHAPTER XIII. STANLEY'S HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS. Stanley's Marvellous Courage and Enterprise — Abundance of Supplies— Perils Sur- rounding the Expedition— Paying Tribute to Chiefs— Dense Jungles and Thickets of Thorns — A Country Teeming with Noble Game — A Merry Bugler and His Horn — Stanley Invited to the House of a Sheik- Three Caravans Arrive in Safety— Letters to Livingstone Long Delayed — Illness of Stanley — The Explorer Senseless for Two Weeks— Shaw Again Breaks Down— Chief Mirambo Disputes the March of the Expedition— Stanley Joins the Arab Forces — Deadly Encounter with Mirambo — Stanley's Graphic Account of the Conflict — Mirambo Gets Hia Foe into Ambush— Disastrous Defeat of the Arab Forces— Stanleys Hasty H- Vlll CONTENTS. Flight— Setting off Hurridly at Midnight— Urging Forward the Donkeys — Safe at Last — Arab Boy Faithful to His American Master — News of Farquhar's Death- Burning a Village— Mirambo Retreats — Stanley's Little Slave Boy— How the Name Kalulu was Obtained — Shaw is Sent Back — Narrow Escape From a Croco- dile — Capture of an Immense Reptile — A Traveler's Startling Adventure- Mutiny in Stanley's Camp— Securing the Friendship of a Powerful Chief— Home of the Lion and the Leopard— Stanley in Pursuit of Adventure— Encounter with a Wild African Boar— Kalulu Badly Frightened— Crossing a Perilous River- Exciting News of a White Man— Stanley Longs for a Horse — Expedition in High Spirits — More Demand for Tribute — A Bivouac in Silence — Passing Through an African Village— Great Alarm Among the Natives — Arrival at Last — March of Two Hundred and Thirty six Days , 297 CHAPTER XIV. STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER. Stanley's Perseverance— Mastering Mountains of Difficulty — Bent on Finding Living- stone — Characteristics of the Two Great Explorers — Livingstone's Touching Reference to the Death of His Wife — W inderful Results of African Exploration — Stanley Approaches Ujiji— News of a Brother White Man — Great Excitement Among the Travellers — Unfurling Flags and Firing Guns — Ujiji Surprised by the Coming of the Caravan— People Rushing by Hundreds to Meet Stanley — Joyous Welcome — Meeting the Servant of Livingstone — Flags, Streamers and Greet- ings — Livingstone's Surprise — ^The Great Travellers Face to Face — Stanley Relating the News of the Past Six Years — Livingstone's Personal Appearance — A Soldier from Unyanyembe— A Celebrated Letter Bag — Letters a Year Old — Narrative of Great Events — What Livingstone Thought of Stanley's Arrival — Letter to James Gordon Bennett— The Explorer's Forlorn Condition — On the Eve of Death when Stanley Arrived — Livingstone Thrilled by Mr. Bennett's Kindness— Some Account of the Country Visited— Discussing Future Plans — Stanley's Description of Livingstone — Fine Example of the Anglo-Saxon Spirit — Life Given to Ethiopia's Dusky Children — Livingstone's Marvellous Love for Africa 317 ! ! CHAPTER XV. LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY. Stanley and Livingstone at Ujiji— Cruise on Lake Tanganyika — Giants of AfricaM Discovery— Meeting Enemies Upon the Shores — Geographers who Never Travel — Dusky Forms Dodging From Rock to Rock — Mountains Seven Thousand Feet High— Important Discovery — Livingstone's Desperate Resolve — Stanley Leaves for Zanzibar— Affecting Parting Between the Two Great Explorers— Living stone's Intended Route— Later Search Expeditions — Livingstone's Sad and Romantic History — Timely Arrival of Reinforcements from Stanley— Start for the Southwest at Last Made— Without Food for Eight Days— Westward Once More— Continued Plunging In and Out of Morasses — Turbid Rivers and Miry Swamps— Natives Afraid of the White M.\n -Extract from the " Last Journals"— Crossing the Chambeze— Gigantic Difficulties Encountered— Livingstone Again Very III— " Pale, Bloodless and Weak from Profuse Bleeding "—Rotten Tents CONTENTS. -Safe at Death— [ow the a Croco- enture- — Home iter with River- in High rough an March of 297 jg Living- Touching •loration— Excitement sed by the ey— Joyous and Greet- e— Stanley pearance— rear Old— 5 Arrival— )n— On the , Bennett's ire Plans— on Spirit- is Love for 317 of Africa* bver Travel tusand Feet iley Leaves [rs— Living Is Sad and ]r— Start for [ward Once Is and Miry journals"— [tone Again lotten Tents Tom to Shreds— The Last Service— Livingstone Carried on a Litter—The Doctof Falls from His Donkey— A Night's Rest in a Hut— Natives Gather Round the Litter— A Well known Chief Meets the Caravan— The Last Words Livingstone Ever Wrote— The Dying Hero Slowly Carried by Faithful Attendants— The Last Stage— Drowsiness and Insensibility — Lying Under the Broad Eaves of a Native Hut — The Final Resting Place— Livingstone's Dying Words— The World's Gri::i' Hero Dead — Sorrowful Procession to the Coast— Body Transported to England- Funeral in Westminster Abbey — Crowds of Mourners and Eloquent Eulogies - Inscription on the Casket 331 CHAPTER XVI. STANLEY AND THE CONGO. Stanley's Absorbing Interest in Livingstone's Explorations— His Resolve to Find a Path from Sea to Sea— A Man of Remarkable Enterprise — Determined to Accom plish His Object at Any Cost — Description of the Congo Region — Once the Most Famous Kingdom of Africa — A King Glorious in Trinkets — People Prostrating Themselves Before Their Monarch — The Whims of a Despot — Taxes Levied on Furniture — Killing Husbands to Get Their Wives — Strange and Savage Cus- toms — Messengers Collecting Slaves and Ivory— A Nation Famous as Elephant Hunters and Men Stealers— Worship of a Wicked Deity— Priests with Absolute Power— Sacred Fire Burning Continually— A Priest so Holy That He Cannot Die a Natural Death— Test of Red Hot lion Applied to the Skin— How the Congoese Disfigure Themselves— Outlandish Dress — Husbands Rebuked for Neglecting to Beat Their Wives— Pipes and Palm Wine — A Notorious Queen — Followed by a Host of Lovers — Horrible Practices— Slaughter of Male Children — The Queen's Tragic End— Queen Shinga and Her Daring Exploits— Female Demon— Universal Polygamy— Eating Habits of the Congo Tribes— Agonies of Indigestion— Singular Modes of Salutation — Stanley's Description of Welcoming Strangers — Love for Titles and Sounding Names— How Wives Manage Husbands — Famous Old King of the Gaboon— King William's Principal Wife— A Monarch Arrayed in Scarlet- Ferocious Tribes— Traders and Their Wares — Stanley's Description of the Coun- try — Superstitions and Paganism — Animal Life in Congo— Antelopes, Zebras and Buffaloes— Beautiful Monkey Tribe — ^Wild Attack of Cannibals— Immense War- Boat — Everlasting Din of Drums — Horns Carved out of Elephants' Tusks— Wild War Cry— Singular Temple of Ivory— Horrid Monument of Mud and Skulls. ..350 CHAPTER XVn. STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA. The Greatest Feat on Record —Stanley's Journey Across the Continent to the Congo — Expedition Planned by tlie Daily Telegraph of London and the New York // its — Sweet Perfumes — Triangular Finger-Nails — Wanyoro Cookery — Eating Earth— How Great Cliiefs Eat— How Women Eat— What Africans Drink— Proud Wives of Chiefs- Use of Tobacco— Treating Friends With Coffee-berries— Wild Sports in Unyoro — A Famous Witch — Scene at a Fire — How Love Matches Are Made— Paying for a Wife by Installments— How Crime is Punished — The Coun- try's Government— The King's Cattle — King Kabrega Claims All the Young Ladies— Legend of the Creation— Belief in Cliarms— Curious Superstitions— Le- gend of the Elephant— Legend of the Chimpanzee 704 CHAPTER XXXII. EMIN PASHA'S PERILOUS SITUATION. The War of the False Prophet Goes on— Emin's Concern for Amadi— Sends Mes- sengers to Obtain News— Stirring Reports From the Scene of Conflict — Heroic Spirit of Some of Emin's Soldiers— Contemptible Treachery of a Part of Emin's Forces — Presumptuous Letter From the Commander-in Chief of the Mahdist's Army— Intelligence of Gordon's Death — Exultation Among Moslem Arabs Over the Death of Gordon — Emin Summons His Officers to a Council of War — Reso- lution Passed by the Council— General Recommendation of a Retreat South- ward -Emin's Personal Supervision of the Southward March — Manner in Which Emin Received the Summons to Surrender— The Equatorial Provinces in a Perilous Situation - Emin's Letter to Dr. Felkin— -News From England of a Pro- posed Expedition for Emin's Relief— Thanks for Heartfelt Sympathy— Emin's Expressed Resolve to Remain With His People— Gordon's Self-sacrificing Work Must be Carried on— Emin's Statement of What He Wants From England- Disreputable Arabs—Emin Anxiously Awaiting the Outcome of Present Troubles— Destructive Fire rmd the Loss of the Station at Wadelai— The Station Re-built— Emin's Estimate of His Own Supporten— Emphatic Determination Not to Evacuate the Territory 715 CONTENTS. xvii CHAPTER XXXIII. STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION. •o— Cleanly Hab> Cookery — Eating ins Drink— Proud Tee-berries— Wild ,ove Matches Are shed— The Coun- is All the Young superstitions— Le- 704 N. Stanley Again in Africa— Fears for the Safety of Emin Pasha— King of the Belgians Resolves to Send an Expedition— Deciding upon a Route- Stanley States the Character of the Expedition— A Country That Does Not Pay— Bees' Wax and India Rubber— Cutting off the Nile— A Country That Might Be Starved— Stanley States That His Mission is Pacific— Stanley's Old Friend Tipo-tipo— Six Hundred Men Enlisted— Meeting the Expenses of the Journey— The Expediton Leaves Zanzibar for the Mouth of the Congo — Overland Journey of Nearly Seventeen Hundred Miles— Appalling Difficulties— Transporting Munitions and Stores — DiiTiculty to Obtain Porters— Mysteries of the 'White Pasha"— Gigantic False- hood Told Concerning Emin— Gloomy Predictions— Fears for the Safety ol Stanley— The Whole Expedition Thought to Have Been Massacred— Blunders Committed in the Soudan and East Africa — Hostile Relations Between the Na- tive Tribes— Dangers Always Threatening a Passing Caravan — Marauders Eager for Plunder— Stanley's Selection of the Congo Rout Criticized 723 CHAPTER XXXIV. STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY. The Great Explorer Heard From— News of Having Reached Emin Pasha — Interest- ing Letter from Mr, Stanley— Story of the Expedition's Movements— Awaiting the Arrival of a Steamer— Tipo tipo Again on the Scene —Lively Skirmish with the Nal'ves— Setting Fire to Villages— Making an Attack Under Cover of Smoke — Proceeding Along the Left Bank of the Aruwimi— Again in the Wilderness— Death from Poisoned Arrows— Making Steady Progress— Arrival at the Camp— Attempt to Ruin the Expedition— What Stanley Calls an "Awful Month "—Brighter Pros- pects Ahead— Extreme Suffering from Hunger— Great Loss in Men— A Halt of Thirteen Days— View of the Land of Promise— Light After Continuous Gloom of One Hundred and Sixty Days— A Battle Imminent— Natives Prepare for War- fare— Terrible War-cries Ring from Hill to Hill— Treating with the Natives - Attempt to Drive Back the Expedition— Sharp-shooters Rout the Natives— The March Resumed— Perilous Descent— Stanley Builds a Fort-Laying Up Stores- Illness of Stanley— Deaths and Desertions— Stanley Starts Again - Obtaining Sup- plies—News Again of the "White Man." „ 73a CHAPTER XXXV. STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASHA. Wonderful Tales by Natives—" Ships as Large as Islands, Filled with M«n "—Note from Emin Pasha— Strip of American Oil-cloth— Boat Dispatched to Nyanza— Hospitable Reception by the Egyptian Garrison- Joyful Meeting— Emin and XVIU Contents. Stanley Together— Only Sixteen Men Left Out of Fifty six— Favorable Accounts of the Fort— Getting Rid of Encumbrances— Moving Foward— Securing Am- ple Supplies— Immense Flotilla ol Canoes— Hair-breadth Escapes and Tragic Scenes— Reorganizing the Expedition— St inley Reported Dead— Immense Loss of Men— Good Accounts of the Survivors— Vast Forests— Sublime Scenery- High Table-lands— Lake Nyanza— Conversation with Emin Pasha— What Shall be Done ?— Planning to Remove — Disposing of Women and Children— Last Words— Stanley Sends a Message to the Troops— Emin Pasha to Visit the Fort- Stanley Makes a Short Cut— Success Thus Far of the Expedition 74a ;i CHAPTER XXXVI. STANLEY IN THE BOUNDLESS FOREST. The Route Taken by Stanley— A March Beset by Fatal Perils— Death Thins the Ranks— Bushes and Creepers— Most Extensive Forest Region in Africa — One Hundred and Sixty Days in the Dense Woods — Loyal Blacks — Insects and Monkeys— Dwarfs and Poisoned Arrows — Gloom by Day and Frightful Darkness by Night— Sources of Moisture— Wild and Savage Aborigines — Short-lived Vision of Beauty— Light at Last— The Expedition in Raptures at the Sight of Green Fields— Scene on a Derby Day— Wild With Delight — A Leprous Out- cast — " Beauty and the Beast " — News of a Powerful Tribe — Frantic Multitude — Fowls Plucked and Roasted— Skeletons Getting Fat — Back and Forth on the Banks of the Aruwimi— Emin Pasha — "See, Sir, What a Big Mountain" — Lake Albert Nyanza — Important Discoveries 752 CHAPTER XXXVII. HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH. The Explorer Again Lost— Long and Painful Suspense — Welcome Despatch from Zanzibar— Wonderful March— Conspicuous Bravery — Stanley's Thrillmg Story- Murder of Major Barttelott — Mission Church — "Outskirts of Blessed Civiliza- tion "—Vivid Word Painting —Stanley's Letter to a Friend— Movements of Jeph- son— Stanley's History of His Journey — Letter to the Chairman of the Emin Re- lief Fund — Rear Column in a Deplorable State--Land March Begun — Gathering Stores for the March — Small-pox— Terrible Mortality — Bridging a River — Crafty and Hostile Dwarfs — Tracks of Elephants — Fighting Starvation — Stanley Returns to Find the Missing Men— Making Friends with the Natives — Startling Letter from Jephson— Emin a Prisoner— The Insurgents Reach Lado— Emin's Followers Like Rats in a Trap — Stanley's Arrival Anxiously Awaited — Emin Chngs to His Province — Stanley's Letter to Jephson — Absurd Indecision— Letter from Emin— Desperate Situation — Emin's Noble Traits— Stanley's Letter to Marston— Recital of Thrilling Events 761 CHAPTER XXXVIII. STANLEY'S TRIUMPH. Stanley's Continued History of His March— Emin's Arrival at Stanley's Camp- Arranging for the Journey — Arabs who Always Agree with You— That Stolen CONTENTS. XIX vorable Accounts i— Securing Am- apes and Tragic 1 — Immense Loss iblime Scenery— isha— What Shall 1 Children— Last o Visit the Fort- »n 742 :sT. -Death Thins the •n in Africa— One icks— Insects and ^'rightful Darkness gines— Short-lived ;s at the Sight of -A Leprous Out- rantic Multitude— and Forth on the Mountain "—Lake 752 le Despatch from Thrilling Story- Blessed Civiliza- ovements of Jeph- n of the Emin Re- Begun— Gathering g a River— Crafty —Stanley Returns i— Startling Letter Emin's Followers min Chngs to His ;tter from Emin— Marston— Recital 761 Stanleys Camp— You— That Stolen Rifle— Selim Bey Deposed— The Refugees and their Luggage— Falstaffs Buck Basket— Emin's Inquiry— Stanley's Reply to Emin— Hankering for Egypt— Stanley Reviews the Situation— The Pasha's Danger— Rebels Threaten to Rob Stanley— Rebels Possessed of Ammunition— When Shall the Marcli. Commence ?— Reply of the Officer^- Emin Acquitted of All Dishonor — Emin's Unwavering Faith— Few Willing to Follow Emin to Egypt— Expedition Starts for Home— The Perilous March 781 CHAPTER XXXIX. BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY. The World Hears the News— Stanley and Emin Pasha Arrive at Mpwapwa- Newspapers Aglow with the Intelligence— Intense Interest of All Civilized People— Unfortunate Report of Emin's Death— General Rejoicings on Ac- count of Emin's Safety— Stanley's Thrilling Narrative— Incidents of the Homeward March — The Explorer in Perfect Health — Stanley's Summons to Conduct the Expedition — The Aruwimi Explored from itis Source to Its Bourne— The Immense Congo Forest—** Cloud King " Wrapped in Eternal Snow— Fed on Blackberries — Six Thousand Square Miles of Water Added to Victoria Nyanza— Animals, Birds, and Plants— New Stores of Knowledge — The Hand of a Divinity— Emin Pasha and Jephson Threatened with In- stant Death — Prisoners in the Hands of the Mahdists— Jephson's Letters- Stanley's Faith in the Purity of His Own Motives — "Agonies of Fierce Fe- vers" — What Vulgar People Call Luck — Strange Things in Heaven and Earth — Uncomplaining Heroism of Dark Explorers — Stanley's Letter to the British Consul at Zanzibar — Number of Persons Brought Out of Central Africa — Fifty-nine Infant Travellers — Eighteen of Emin's People Lost — Completeness of Stanley's Story 797 CHAPTER XL. WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA. Stanley's Arrival at Cairo — Warm Greetings — A Talk with the Explorer — A Fortune Left Behind — Great Preparations to Welcome Stanley — Banquet Attended by Distinguished Persons — Stanley's Letter to Mr. Bruce — A Story that Would Have Thrilled Livingstone — Two Hundred Thousand Spears — White Cotton Dresses — An Unexpected Meeting — The King Finds a Refuge — Mohammedan Intrigues — Terrible Slaughter — Christians in Africa — Stanley has an Opportunity for Adventure — An Imposing Dep- utation — Christian Converts Mightier than Kings — Students of the Bible and Prayer Book — A Tough Scotchman — •' Peace and Good Will to Men " — Stanley Sends Greetings and Best Wishes — Stanley's Return Anticipated in London — Offers for a Prize Poem — An American Girl Wins the Prize — The Poem Celebrating Stanley's Return — *' Back from the Dead " 809 ^^* r Jt LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece. Henry M. Stanley .... The Celebrated Explorers of the World Expedition Starting for the Interior of Africa David Livingstone .... Wounded Lion Turning on Livingstone Lions Capturing a Buffalo Deadly Attack of a Lion on a Native Peculiar Head-dress Successful Warriors Celebrating Their Victory Warrior with Spears and Shield Fetish Men Selling Charms and Images Training Boys for Hardships . Curious Houses Built by White Ants The Latooka Funeral Dance . Commoro Running to the Fight . Wild Charge of a Buffalo upon Hunters Exciting Battle with Hippopotami Driving Crocodiles into the Water House-Building in Africa Livingstone Hunting the Elephant A Dead Crocodile The Famous Antediluvian Crocodile The Final Attack on a Savage Hippopotamus Great Baobab Tree of Africa Curious Mounds Built by Warrior-Ants Immense African Lion Seizing His Prey Grand Dance in Honor of a King The Exploring Party on the March The Marimba or African Piano Stampede of South African Gnus . Scene in a South African Village . Charming Away Evil Spirits , Singular Mode of Dressing the Hair Beautiful Zebras of Africa Bringing a Huge Snake into Camp (XX) PAOS . 19 • 23 • 27 • 34 • 39 . 41 • 49 . 48 ■ S3 • 57 • 59 ■ 63 . 69 73 75 80 84 86 89 95 lOI 103 107 109 III "3 "5 119 121 123 "5 127 129 131 «33 J UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXI Elephant Protecting Her Young from Hunters' Spears Gigantic Baobab Tree at Victoria Falls Curious Mode of Saluting a Stranger Hippopotami and Young . Elephants Speared to Death by Natives Elephants Laying Timbers . Death-Grapple with a Ferocious Lion Despeiate Battle at Mazaro . «35 »39 141 143 M5 149 153 i6( 165 171 182 185 188 "95 19^ 201 203 207 209 211 213 221 223 227 229 235 239 241 249 253 257 259 261 264 26^ 271 281 283 285 291 295 r XXll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Weapons Used in Warfare .... Crocodiles in a Tropical Marsh Natives Dragging an Immense Crocodile Ashore White-faced Wild Boar of Central Africa Map of the Great Lake District , Stanley Finds Livingstone .... Stanley and Livingstone Escaping from Savages African Houses with Thatched Roofs Conveying Livingstone's Body to the Coast . The Giraffe or Camelopard .... Young "Fetish" Man of the Congo District King William of the Gaboon and His Principal Wife Guereza with Beautiful Flying Mantle . Immense War-Boat of Cannibals Advancing to Battle Monument and Skulls Erected to a Chief African Warrior Rushing to Battle King Mtesa and His Officers of State Peculiar Mode of Execution One of Mtesa's Wives Rescued from Death Wild Freaks of a Female Sorcerer Human Sacrifices in Honor of a Visit to King Mtesa Wild War-Dance of Savage Braves Beautiful African Leopard and Young . Battle between Stanley's Expedition and Fifty-four Heroic Rescue of Zaidi .... A Berber Family Crossing a Ford The Beautiful Slave Girl at Berber Exciting Combat with a Hippopotamus in the Atbara The Old Arab Attacking the Hippopotamus . An Elephant's Furious Charge upon His Foes Sir Samuel and Lady Baker Crossing the Desert Wild Arab's Swift Ride Venomous Scorpion .... Natives of the Nile Region . Natives of Africa Capturing an Elephant Bull Elephant Shaking a Tree for Fruit . Elephants in Military Service Curious Obbo War-Dance Kamrasi's People Welcoming Mr. and Mrs. Baker The Start from M' rooli for the Lake with Kamrasi* Herd of Hippopotami in the Albert Nyanza Lake Murchison Falls — The Niagara of Africa Canoes Satanic Escort PAGB 301 305 307 3" 3>9 323 335 342 345 355 361 363 366 367 369 374 378 380 382 389 394 399 407 412 416 425 427 431 434 437 442 445 447 451 461 464 467 472 474 476 479 483 i ! LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xxiu Ferocious Attack of a Hippopotamus Grand Dance of Welcome to Mr and Mrs. Baker Lively Skirmish with the Natives . Camels Transporting Steamers Across the Desert Antelopes Guarded by a Sentry Shillook Warriors with Dress and Weapons " The Black Soldiers Immediately Attacked the Crocodile " Curious Table-Rock in the Nile Valley . *' Crack ! went a Bullet against His Hide " . Wazaramo Village Greedy Natives Figh<^ing over a Captured Hippopotamus '- The Animal Sent Him into the Air " . Desperate Race ....<,. Put to Flight by a Suflden Charge . Grand Torchlight Dance of the Weezee Dancing Party to Welcome a Returning Husband Peculiar African Bullock .... Social Amusements among the Weezees Young Weezee Shooting Pigeons An Ivory Merchant's Camp .... Combat with an Enraged Lioness . A Happy Native Landing an Enormous Hippopotamus . Infuriated Rhinoceros Routing His Foes Peculiar Musical Instruments. Curious Adjutant-Bird . . . . • Grant's Rapid Journey from Karagwe . Elephants Escaping from Their Pursuers Strange African Shoebill .... Fish-Eagles Contending for a Prize . . Life and Metamorphosis of the Dragon-fly Desperate Battle with the King of the Forest . Beautiful Pheasant Columns of Desert Sand Formed by a Cyclone African Gekko or Wall-lizard Gigantic Beetle Native Captured by a Ferocious Leopard The World-renowned Gorilla Orang-outang Captured .... Apes among the Trees Herd of African Elephants .... Chased by an Enraged Elephant . PACB 486 492 495 505 510 518 523 526 53a 534 536 539 542 544 546 549 553 555 557 560 562 565 567 569 573 575 578 583 586 588 591 593 597 599 601 604 606 611 614 621 624 XXIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. i , Twice, Thrice Dining with a Kaffir Chief Headlong Chase of Three Elands . At Close Quarters .... A Perilous Position Terrible Combat with Tigers Narrow Escape from a Wild Buffalo A Race for Life .... Giraffes Fleeing from a Hunter Herd of Harrisbucks in Full Flight Curious Mode of Capturing Ostriches Exciting Chase of a Wild Ostrich South American Ostrich and Young Terrible Combat with a Gorrilla . " It Tossed Him High into the Air Otice, O'Jganga Doctor Discovering a Witch. A Struggle for Life Leopard and Ant-Bear in Mortal Combat South African Kangaroos Warrior with Battle-axe Carved Ivory Trumpets Chief with Remarkable Goatee Camel of Arabia .... Traveller and Camel Crossing^the Dessert Hunting the Wild Boar in Africa . Desperate Combat with a Lion Kaffirs' Lively War-Dance Emin Pasha (Dr Schnitzer) . Some of Emin Pasha's Irregulars . African King and His Great Chiefs Returning a Visit In the Jaws of Death . Chirping Cricket . , Arrival at Kabrega's Map of Equatorial Africa Expedition Crossing a Temporary Bridge Henry M. Stanley and His Automatic Machine Gun Abyssinian Foot Soldier .... Stanley Threatens Death if the Box is Dropped Animals of the Tropics .... Skirmish Drill of Kaffir Warriors Extraordinary Forest Growths in Africa Monkey Town in Central Africa . . • PAGB 626 628 630 663 639 641 645 647 649 653 659 661 663 664 665 666 667 668 669 671 673 676 679 681 683 691 694 726 728 730 734 739 745 747 749 755 ' ' I WilWWiljBjjiBrwiij # ^ PACB 626 628 630 663 639 641 643 645 647 649 653 659 661 663 664 665 666 667 668 669 671 673 676 679 681 683 691 694 726 728 730 734 739 745 747 749 755 . ^■•■■fr' ;^^ i !| ANIMALS. KtPTlLES A-Mj FISW Ul- [HE 1 KOf ICS. Wonders a^. Tropics OR EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES OF HENRY WL. STANLEY. lVj -■>'■■■ w^^ ^|m6"_ ""^, •:■ ^P^ /■• Tfe J* 'iJ8^^ " ^Ji^ ^^^^^ pvSiw'- •>f^^)i.-. S^:^^ """^"^iifcte wA." - ^^p :l| CHAPTER I. STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. i^ Remarkable Man— Solving the Mysteries of the Dark Continent— Stanley's Birth !n Wales— Sent in Early Life to the Almshouse at St. Asaph— A Teacher in Flint- » shire— Struggling to Obtain Means for an Education— The Restless Spirit Show- 4 ing itself— Seeking the New World— A Cabin Boy, Bound from Liverpool to New Orleans— The Welsh Boy Adopted by Stanley of New Orleans— Honesty and Capacity of the Boy— Death of Stanley's Benefactor— No Property Falls to the Adopted Son— Stanley in California— A Free and Happy Life Among Bold Ad- venturers—The School of Human Nature— Power of Endurance and Readiness for Daring Enterprises— Carrying the Knapsack and Rifle — A Soldier in the Confederate Army — Captured by Union Forces — Becomes Connected with the New York Herald— Off for the Battle-field in Turkey— Robbed by Brigands- Stanley Returns to England— The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse— Sent by James Gordon Bennett with the British Abyssinian Expedition — Stanley's Messages First to Reach London — Livingstone Lost in Africa — Remarkable Midnight Interview with Mr. Bennett — "Find Livingstone at any Cost." HE vvrorld is filled with the fame of Henry M. Stanley. What Cicero was in eloquence, what Newton was in science, what Gladstone is in statesmanship, this Stanley is in exploration and adventure.- For bold enterprise, for daring achievement, for unconquerable rseverance, for singular command of men, for intrepid bravery in the ,ce of danger, he stands unrivalled among the heroes of modem times ; nd this is saying much considering that modem history boasts of such ames as Livingstone, Baker, Emin Bey, Cameron and Speke in Tropical scoveries, and Franklin, Kane and Greeley in Arctic voyages and perils. 2 'Hi! Nii ) 1i |i^ 1 ii 'I I -' I 5 44 '^ ^ ^'''.j r ^* .; i \i\:. 18 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. To this man the eyes of the world are drawn ; the Dark Continent has yielded to him its mysteries, and when it shall be changed by the on- ward march of civilization, the eulogies pronounced upon him will be even more eloquent, and a large share of the credit of redeeming the uncivilized wastes of Africa will be freely accorded to him. Like many men who have distinguished themselves in every field of enterprise and discovery, Stanley came from very humble life, and by force of native genius, resolute will and self-sacrificing devotion to h'ly work, has gained the foremost rank among the noble band of explorers whose thrilling achievements have an interest surpassing that of the most marvelous tales of fiction. Henry M. Stanley, although an American by residence and education, was born at Denbigh, in Wales, in 1840, The names of his par^^nts were Rowland. They belonged to the very poor, yet, like many of the peas- antry in old countries, they possessed some sterling qualities of mind and heart and character. These have been reproduced in their son. who has risen far above the su»'roundings of his childhood, and has become celebrated by achievements which never could have been predicted from the circumstances of his early life. As it was not possible for him to be cared for and supported at home, at the early age of three years he was placed in the almshouse at St. Asaph. Here it was expected he would receive the care and training, both meagre indeed, which such an institu- tion was able to furnish. Seeking the New World. Stanley remained at the almshouse until he was thirteen years old. It seems probable that there is just here a space of several years which is not accounted for, since the next we hear of him he was a teacher at Mold, in Flintshire, endeavoring by this occupation to provide himself with the means of taking a thorough course of study and completing i his education. It appears, however, that he remained at Mold only one year. By this time the restless spirit of the youth had begun to show itself and he gave signs that his life would be one of adventure. Having shipped at Liverpool as a cabin-boy on a vessel that was bound for New Orleans, he thought he would try the New World and leain what fortune might await him there. His youthful mind had been awak- ened by glowing accounts of the open fields on this side of the Atlantic, and the larger opportunities which awaited industrious and enterprising young men. Having arrived a^ New Orleans, he soon obtained employment with a merchant named Stanley. This man was attracted by the frank, open- 1 bTANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. It w Continent has iged by the on- ion him will be f redeeming the 1. n every field of ble life, and by devotion to hi> id of explorers :hat of the most 2 and education, his parents were my of the peas- [ualities of mind ti their son. who and has become 1 predicted from )le for him to be ee years he was jected he would such an institu- n years old. It years which is |ras a teacher at provide himself and completin<,r Mold only one begun to show of adventure that was bound /orld and leain had been awak- of the Atlantic, ind enterprising ployment with a the frank, open- hearted manner of the boy, and not only received him into his family, but soon atlopted him as his own. His friend and benefactor sodn learned that his confidence had not been misplaced; that the impulsive Welsh % HENRY M. STANLEY, THE WORLD's GREATEST EXPLORER. boy was capable of great things; that he was honest and competent; and although at that time no prediction could have been made of the wonder- ful career which lay before him. yet, even then, it could safely have been r u I. I '!l! ^ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. said that in some capacity or other he was likely to become distinguished above orc^nary men. Stanley's benefactor died intestate, or at least none of his property fell to his adopted son. By the sudden bereavement which had overtaken him, he was left alone in the world and brouj^dit face to face with the startling fact that he was to be the architect of his own fortune; that he was to find his surest helper in himself; that he could accomplish in life just what his own capacity and push and genius would enable him t( bring to pass. In his case, as in that of others, it is interesting to trace the chain of circumstances which led him on to the great undertakings, which have since startled the world. Stanley iu California. He was seized with a strong desire to visit the Pacific coast. It is not worth while here to recount the adventures and hardships which he underwent in carrying out his cherished wish to acquaint himself with the western part of our country ; the old saying that " where there is a will there is a way," was fully illustrated in this instance. For a time he roamed over different parts of California; gazed upon the romantic scenes which that country affords ; made the acquaintance of miners as they sat around their camp-fires ; listened to the tales of their exploits ;. wondered at the magnificent products of nature, the lofty trees of the Sierras and the sublime scenery of the Yc^scmite Valley, and became familiar with the character of the bold men who were attracted to this region by the fascinating tales which had been related of the discovery of gold. During this time he was not only familiarizing himsc. * with the natural scenes which had for him a strong fascination, but he was studying human nature, learning the ways of men, arfd, by his genial qualities and ready adaptation to circumstances, making friends wherever he went. Scarcely any school could have been better for him at this time. THb hardy life that he led developed his physical strength and made him a man of nerve and iron. His power of endurance already showed itself. Few could travel farther or endure more fatigue than he. If any little enterprise was planned which required a brave .spirit, Stanley was the young man who was found equal to the occasion. He wa's a brave, strong character ; just the one to cross seas, climb mountains, wade rivers, endure hardships, explore continents. Carrying^ the Knapsack and Rifle. Returning from California, it was but natural that, as he had previously resided in the South, he should identify himself with the Confederate M STANLEY'S EARLY LIKE. 21 \ : >; V . Army. To one like him there was something captivating about the life of a soldier ; be was not in the habit of turning back from the face of ■danger. His life hitherto had prepared him for just those exploits which are connected with bold military achievements. And although his con- nection with the Confederate Army was brief, it was evident that he had the material in him for a good soldier ; in fact, it was while carrying out one of his adventurous projects that he was captured by the Union troops and was made prisoner of war. He was confined on board the iron-clad Ticonderoga, and here again his manly bearing and frank, genial manner won him friends. The com- mander of the vessel was willing to release him on condition that he shc)uld join the United States Navy. This he consented to do, although there was not much about the life of a sailor that attracted him. By this "voluntary act he separated himself from the Confederate Army, and be- •came an ally of the Federal forces. He remained, doing such service as was required of him, until the close of the war. Suddenly his occupa- tion was gone, and again he seemed to be thrown upon the world. This fact had no discouragements for him ; he took it as a matter of course. It was not in the nature of things that so bright and spirited a young man should long remain idle. Having had a taste of the excitement of military campaigns, he conceived the bold project of crossing the Atlan- tic, and, if opportunity offered, continuing his military career. Off to the Battle-iield. There was trouble in Turkey at this time on account of the uprising of the Cretans, who, having borne their oppression until endurance ceased to be a virtue, resolved to throw off the yoke under which they had suffered. It was but natural that Stanley should feel sympathy for any tribe or nation struggling for independence, and at once he resolved to ally himself with the Cretans and take again the chances of war. At this time he formed a connection which has influenced his career ever since, and which was the most important that he ever entered into. As he was going East, and would be an eye-witness of the stirring scenes transpiring in the Orient, he secured the position of correspondent for the New York Herald, and immediately, in company with two Ameri- cans, set sail for the Island of Crete. The old saying that *' distance lends enchantment to the view " was fully illustrated in his case, for after he had arrived upon the ground and had become acquainted with the movement that was in progress for securing the independence of Crete, he became thoroughly disgusted with the leaders of the rebellion, and -entirely changed his opinion as to the merits of the case. He recalled 22 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. « ! '\' at once his resolve and determined that he would not identify himself with the malcontents whose cause, after he had investigated it, did not appeal to his sympathies. Again he was a " free lance" and was at liberty to undertake any labor or occupation that presented itself. Fortunately he had received from New York full permission to go wherever he pleased. He could travel in any direction, gain a knowledge of what was transpiring in other countries, describe the active scenes that were taking place, and send his letters to the journal which was now employing him, with the certainty that they would be read with interest. Americans are quick in obtaining information from other parts of the world, and their eagerness for it is exhibited by the fact that so many of our enterprising journals have their correspondents in other countries. The education of our people peculiarly fits them for an active interest in whatever of importance is going on throughout the world. Robbed by BrigraudN. Stanley and his friends soon met with an adventure which shows the dangers through which they passed and the kind of people they encoun- tered. A party of Turkish brigands made an attack upon them and robbed them of all their money and extra clothing. This is not an unusual occurrence in many parts of the East, where travellers run continuous risks and are constantly exposed to the marauding disposition of reckless robbers and brigands. At this time Mr. Morris was our United States Minister at Constantinople, and the case was presented to him ; he im- mediately interested himself in behalf of Stanley and his friends and brought the matter to the attention of the Turkish officials. Mr. Morris v/as extremely helpful to his fellow Americans, and having loaned them whatever was needful, they continued their wanderings. It will be under- stood that during this time letters were forwarded to the Nezu York Herald, containing graphic descriptions of eastern life and mannera Having accomplished what he desired in this direction, Stanley set his face toward England and once again arrived in the land of his birth, where the scenes of his early boyhood were laid. It is one of the characteristics of a noble nature that it does not forge, its early struggles and experiences. The remembrance of poverty has no pain for the man who has risen above it and made himself the master o. circumstances. It is a tribute to Mr. Stanley's worth that he did not for- get the old almshouse, where his early days were spent. One of the first thing-? he did after arriving in England was to visit this very place, there recalling scenes through which he had passed years before. y himself with id not appeal ake any labor received from ; could travel ring in other ace, and send h the certainty ;k in obtaining ;erness for it is journals have of our people importance is hich shows the le they encoun- lem and robbed lot an unusual un continuous tion of reckless r United States to him ; he im- lis friends and s. Mr. Morris 12: loaned them t will be under- the Nezv York and mannera nley set his face lis birth, where does not forge. ■ poverty has nc :lf the master o. he did not for- One of the first ery place, there c. THE CELEBRATED EXPLORERS OF THE WORLD. (28) r w^ 24 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. :4- ^ All accounts agree that this visit was very interesting ; it was so to the one who was making it and also to those who were receiving it. The children whom Stanley knew as inmates of this place had grown up and most of them had gone out into the world, but " the poor ye have always with you," and there were other little ones, with wan faces, whose sad life appealed to the heart of the great traveller. Stanley resolved to give these little people a right good dinner, and we may be sure the intention was received with as much enthusiasm on the part of those who were to partake of the dinner as it was formed on the the part of the benefactor. The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse. On this occasion Stanley appeared in his true light, the nature of the man showing itself That nature is one of essential kindness, as has , been shov/n through all his explorations, ^becoming severe anJ haughty only for effect and when such exhibition of sternness is absolutely required. Of course the little people at the poorhouse of St. Asaph were delighted ; their efficiency in disposing of that dinner was both conspicuous and admirable, and after they had been fed and filled, there wa,3 another treat m store for them. They were to have a talk from the one who had made them so happy, and were to hear a brief account of some of his tr- /els and wanderings. Stanley addressed them in plain, simple, child's language, showing at once his adaptation to all classes and conditions of people. The little folks were delighted to hear his stories; more than this, they received from him words of instruction and encour- agement, which, if remembered and heeded, must have made them by this time strong men and women. . We next find Stanley back again in the United States. This was m the year 1 867 ; he was then but little more than twenty-five years of age, but he had passed through more than most men do in a long lifetime ; had already seer more of the world than many well-known travellers; had been in more dangers than many who have written strange tales of their adventures ; and had obtained a general knowledge of the world at large, which is some considerable part of the capital of every well- furnished man. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the Ntw York Herald, gave him a hearty reception, and with his shrewd eye saw at once the prize he had obtained and the kind of man with whom he had to deal. About this time ihe King of Abyssin.a, who was one of the subjects of Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, became very restless, thought he was entitled to tl>e management of his own affairs, and created such a dis- \m STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 25 ; it was so to eiving it. The grown up and ye have always ces, whose sad dinner, and we usiasm on the formed on the i nature of the ndness, as has 2 and haughty ; is absolutely ; of St. Asaph nner was both ,nd filled, there 1 talk from the )rief account of them in plain, all classes and ear his stories ; on and encour- made them by • This was m 'e years of age, long lifetime; Dwn travellers; trange tales of 2 of the world of every well- the Ntw York vd eye saw at whom he had of the subjects jought he was ed such a dis- '■S* i turbance and mutiny against the formidable powers of Britain that an expedition was sent out to straighten his tangled affairs and bring him into becoming submission. A spirit of adventure always gathers about such an expedition as this. Not only among the regular forces is there sometimes an eagerness for the new country and the excitement of the campaign, but there are always followers who have business of one kind or another, and who are captivated with the opportunities afforded to gratify their roving dispositions. The war correspondent may not always be of this description, but he must be a man of peculiar characteristics. Graphic Description of Abyssinian Warfare. It is scarcely necessaiy to say that as Abyssinia was the central point of interest at this time, Stanley received permission to accompany the English forces and give detailed accounts of their operations. His letters attracted wide attention and were read with eager interest. While not the letters of a highly edu dted man, they were the productions of one who was peculiarly fitted for his work, and who could seize upon just those points which were of interest to the general public, and who could express them in language at once graphic aad plain, and could thus fas- cinate a wide circle of readers. Stanley was not disheartened by any difficulties- in short, he was rather looking for some opportunity to perform achievements such as other men would not be likely to undertake, and such as would give him reputation and renown. Wher. the last battle '\t^s fought in this Abys- sinian campaign, official dispatches, of course, were sent to London. Stanley's messages outstripped all official dispatches and brought the first news of the victory to the ears of the British people. When inquiries were made in London as to the progress of the battle, they were answered by the government officials with the statement that it was not yet over. Suddenly Stanley's dispatches arrived, with the statement that tb^; battle was over, and at a later period this announcement was officially confirmed. This of itself was enough to give Stanley fame as a newspaper corre- spondent. It was not a little humiliating to those ponderous official bodies, which move slowly, to learn that a live Yankee had outstripped them and got ahead of all their calculations. Not only was he expert in getting the news ahead, but his description of this campaic^n is universally considered as the very best and most accurate that has ever been written. Visit to Spain. The next year, i868, found Stanley again in the United States, not long to remain, however. A civil war was raging at tliis time in Spain. Very soon we find Star.ley again in Europe, actually 'taking his position i 26 WONDERS OF THE TROPICa upon the battle-fields to be a spectator of the conflicts, then relating with minuteness what had taken place, and giving a graphic description of the scenes which he had witnessed. His letters at this time gave a very- accurate idea of Spanish affairs. He not only saw the events, but he saw the forces which had produced them. For a long time there had been political strife in Spain; the position of the contending parties, the ideas that were clamoring for the ascendant, all this was given as with a photo- graphic lens by the brilliant correspondent, and was made known to the world at large. The same promptness and energy which had previously distinguished him came out vividly in his life in Spain. Just here we have one of the most striking chapters in the career of the great explorer. "What Has Become of Livingstone?" It must be evident by this time to the reader that Stanley was at home everywhere. He did not stop to consider climate, country, language or hardships when he was to undertake one of his daring enterprises. His first plan had been to remain in Spain for a long period of time, content- ing himself to sojourn in that land which, for Americans, has compara- tively few attractions. This plan, however, was sud'lenly abandoned. There was another and more famous field for his spirit of adventure. David Livingstone was in Africa. This man, whose name has gone into all the earth, was the marvel of his time, possessing, and in an equally eminent degree, many, of those characteristics which belong to the hero whose early life we are relating. It was a bold conception on the part of Livingstone to enter the wilds "of the Dark Continent, explore the mysteries that had puzzled the world for ages, learn the character of the African tribes, obtain a knowledge of the geography of that vast continent, and thereby prepare the way for commerce and for those missionary labors which were to bring civilization to the land that had long been lying in darkness. Livingstone had long been absent and the curiosity which was awak- ened concerning his fate amounted even to anxiety. He had many per- sonal friends in England and Scotland who had taken great interest in his travels, and who were eager now to obtain some information con- , cerning him. The probabilities of his fate were freely discussed in news- papers and journals, and among many the opinion prevailed that the great discoverer would never return to his native land alive. The ques- tion, "What has become of Livingstone?" was agitating both hemis- pheres; a singular instance of the interest which, by forces of circum- stances, will sometimes gather around a single great character. f n relating with jcription of the le gave a very nts, but he saw here had been rties, the ideas 5 with a photo- : known to the had previously Just here we of the great ;y was at home Y, language or terprises. His time, content- , has compara- ily abandoned. of adventure. has gone into in an equally ng to the hero n on the nart nt, explore the laracter of the vast continent, 3se missionary lad long been h was awak- ad many per- ?at interest in brmation con- , issed in ncAvs- ailed that the The ques- both hemis- es of circuna* ter. C27) r 28 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. J i i r t = :| 1 i: ■■•I Wi James Gordon Bennett was just the one to solve the all-perplexing question. Was Livingstone alive ? If alive, in what part of Africa was he located ? Or was he dead ? Could any intelligence of him be obtained ? Where was the bold spirit who would venture out into that wild and threatening region and answer the questions which were so freely raised concerning this one man ? It was believed that if the great explorer was alive, his trail could be followed, and, although it would cost an almost superhuman effort, he could be found. To find him would be sufficient glory for any one man, and the journal that should record such an achievement as this would stand in the front rank of the great newspapers of America and England. Mr. Bennett resolved to make the trial, and, of course, Henry M. Stanley was the one selected for this daring expedition. Mr. Bennett was in Paris and suddenly summoned Mr. Stanley from Spain. This unexpected recall somewhat astonished Stanley, yet there was an intimation in his mind that some bold undertaking was planned, and with high hopes he immediately made the journey to Paris. He arrived late at night, but would not 5leep until after an interview with the one who had summoned him. For a long time the project was discussed, and before that first interview was concluded, it appeared to both to be a practicable scheme to under- take the discovery of Livingstone. Offers of Help Rejected. It came to the ears of the Royal Geographical Society of London that an attempt was to be made to obtain information concerning the lost explorer. This Society, which has had a long and honorable career and has done much towards opening parts of the world that had hitherto been scaled against all the advances of civilization, offered to bear a part of the expenses that would be incurred in sending Mr. Stanley into the continent of Africa. Mr. Bennett, however, was willing to undertake the matter alone, bear all the expenses and keep himself free from any dictation on the part of those who would have all sorts of opinions to express and plans to propose, and would think that these should be regarded because they were bearing a part of the expenses. The decis- ion was a wise one, and Stanley was left perfectly free to follow out his own ideas, go where he wished, remain as long as he pleased, only agree- ing to do his utmost to solve the problem which all the nations of Christendom had on hand. Th^ account given by Stanley himjelf of the commission received from Mr. Bennett is somewhat amusing. It is as follows: On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 29 .m hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Valencia. At lO a.m. I received a telegram. It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram was from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, Jr., the young manager of the New York Herald. Sudden Start for PariH. Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, and after a couple of hours hasty hard work my portmanteaus were strapped up and labelled " Paris." At 3 p. M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a "ew hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight fto the " Grand Hotel," and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room. " Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed. "Who are you?" he asked. " My name is Stanley," I answered. "Ah, yes! sit down ; I have important business on hand for you." After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre, Mr. Bennett Jisked, " Where do you think Livingstone is ? " " I really do not know, sir." " Do you think he is alive ? " " He may be, and he may not," I answered. " Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to nd you to find him." " What ! " said I, " do you really think I can find Dr. Livingstone? o you mean me to go to Central Africa ?" " Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear hat he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps " — deliver- ng himself thoughtfully and deliberately—" the old man may be in want: take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of course ou will act according to your own plans, and do what you think best BUT FIND Livingstone!" Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa o search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men. be- eved to be dead, " Have you considered seriously the great expense you e likely to incur on account of this little journey ?" " What will it cost?" he asked abruptly. " Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between ^^3,000 nd ;^5,ooo, and I fear it cannot be done under ;^2,5oo." so WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. I .11 :. ' 1^ i} *' Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now, and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is spent draw another thousand, and when you have finished (hat, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, find Livingstone." Surprised but not confused at the order — for I knew that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his purpose — I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should your father die you would sell the Herald and retire from business." " Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not money enough in New York city to buy the New York Herald. My father has made it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a newspa- per in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish v/hatever news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost." " After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go straight to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone ? " " No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first, and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists ; and then write up a guide — a practical one — for Lower Egypt ; tell us about what- ever is worth seeing and how to see it. A Longr Journey Planned. " Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear Captain Warren is making some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan. " Then — let me see — you might as well visit the Crimea and those old battle-grounds. Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; I hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence ycjg may get through Persia to India ; you could write an interesting letter| from Persepolis. " Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppo^s you go there,! and write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. ThenL when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probabhl you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar; but if not, go into the interior and find him. If alive, get what news oil his discoveries you can ; and if you find he is dead, bring all possiblcl proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be witif you." STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 31 housand pounds ler thousand, and 3U have finished INGSTONE." that Mr. Bennett ,vn aside from his scheme, that he cons of the case ; u would sell the noney enough in has made it a great shall be a newspa- publish v/hatever ; cost." Do you mean me ?" : Suez Canal first, starting for Upper and as you go up tourists; and then tell us about what- Captain Warren is sit Constantinople ind the Sultan, imea and those old " Good-night sir," I said ; " what it is in the power of human nature to do I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me." The foregoing is Mr. Stanley's interesting account of the manner in which he received one of the most important and difficult commissions ever given to mortal man. The whole story shows the bold, quick, impulsive nature of men who move the world. To think, is to decide; to decide, is to act ; to act, is to achieve. Without anticipating those striking experiences through which Stan- ley has to pass in the narrative we have before us, suffice it to say that* in due time he arrived in Africa. Having started from Zanzibar with an expedition, the formation of which gave him an opportunity to show his perseverance and tact, he began his long search. Difficulties that would have appalled other men at the outset were as nothing to him; obstacles .were cast aside as by a faith that moves mountains into the sea. Threatening dangers did not turn him from his lofty purpose. On he %ent across plains, down through valleys, through tangled jungles, over almost impassable rivers, displaying everywhere and always the most wonderful heroism and endurance, until the world was startled at his discovery and will evermore applaud his magnificent achievements. Wild and Barbarous Country. No one who has never explored the wilds of Africa can understand the nature of the undertaking which Stanley had before him. In our land we can travel into almost every section by railways, by stage •coaches, or by steamboats. None of these facilities for travelling were to be found in Africa, at least in that part of it that Stanley was to visit, ome of these means of transit could be created, but they were not in xistence, and to the explorer was left the double work not merely of tie Caspian Sea ; I^^conducting the expedition, but also of preparing the way for it. From thence yea n interesting letter^ y o=e you go there,l Railway. Then! ngstone. Probably f s way to Zanzibar; , get what news 01 1, bring all possible 1 and God be withl Thrilling tales have been told of the dangers attending all journeys in le Dark Continent. Every boo <: which has bpen written is alive with these tales of adventure. No work has ever been published on Africa [which does not read more like a romance than reality. We look upon the map, we see the location of the various provinces, we trace the great rivers winding their way towards the ocean, and, not understanding the true character of the country, it may seem to us to be a simple thing to iss from one point to another. It is much easier to travel by map than any other way. When Livingstone went to Africa he could go but a little way inland rom the coast without finding his progress barred. While it was left to .! 5,1 32 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Stanley to follow in his track, there was sometimes a difficulty in learning the path which Livingstone had taken, and it was also very difficult for a man unused to African exploration to complete so long a journey without any previous experience. These things render Stanley's final success all the more wonderful, and it is not surprising that all readers become, intensely interested in the story of the man and his exploits. Many have been the failures on the part of other explorers, while those who have gone out like Gordon Gumming, merely for the purpose oi sport, have learned the dangers which lie in every step of progress through the jungles of Africa. It requires a man of a venturesome spirit, a strong nerve, an indomitable will, and a ready disposition to make all manner of sacrifices, to do what has been done in modern times toward opening the Tropics to trte advance of civilization. It will be seen by the following pages what Stanley has accomplished, and the wonder is that one man should have succeeded not only in finding Livingstone but also in crossing the continent from sea to sea. The manner in which the world has followed the travels of Mr. Stanley would indicate a personal interest in him and his welfare. He becomes better known than most men whom we do not see, and we are compelled to enter heartily into sympathy with his plans, his trials, his victories. This is the mysterious influence which one strong character has over others. We become absorbed in the marvelous story of this man's ad- ventures. We follow him eagerly step by step. We are amazed at each new revelation, and inquire what greater achievement is to follow. Henry M. Stanley is one of the great heroes of modern times. If:*^ ^P-I: Ity in learning ry difficult for ng a journey Stanley's final tiat all readers i exploits, rs, while those he purpose o. p of progress I venturesome disposition to modern times •n. It will be lished, and the .nly in finding sea. of Mr. Stanley He becomes : are compelled s, his victories. acter has over his man's ad- imazed at each follow. Henry CHAPTER II. t THRILLING AD\'ENTURES IN AFRICA. Mncn a World of Surprises and Wonders— Journeys of Livingstone— The Young Scotch Boy—Born of Noble Parentage— An Ancestry of Sturdy Scotch Qualities- David's Factory Life— Eager Thirst for Knowledge— Tending the Loom, with One Eye on His Book— Studying Latin— A Lover of Heroic Deeds— Early Promise of Rising to Distinction— Resolves to Become a Medical Missionary in China— Departure for Africa— Physical Nerve and Endurance— Encounter with a Ferocious Lion— Livingstone's Narrow Escape— Gordon Cumming's Descrip- tion of the Noble Beast— A Powerful Animal— Beauty of the Lion— Roar of the Forest King— Frightful Ferocity— The Lion's Fearlessness— Requirements ol Lion Hunters— Brave Character of Livingstone. a WORLD of surprises, of captivating wonders, opens before us as we approach the Continent of Africa. Before relating in detail the great achievements of Stanley, particularly his world-re- nowned achievement of finding Livingstone, it will be interesting to the reader to have some account of the life and travels of the cele- brated explorer whom Stanley sought and found. The journeys of Liv- ingstone have a thrilling interest and are here narrated. David Livingstone was a sturdy Scotchman. There appeared to be somewhat of the granite in him which belongs to the highlands of his native country. His child-life was at Blantyre, by the beautiful Clyde, above Glasgow, in Scotland. He was bom there in the year 1813. The humble home entertained some proud traditions, treasured through eight generations of the family. The young David listened with bounding heart and glowing spirit while his grandfather told the histories and legends of the olden time. Culloden was in the story. His great-grand- father fell there, fighting for the old line of kings ; and " Ulva Dark," the [family home, had been there. Old Gaelic songs trembled off the lips of his grandmother, beguiling the social hours. There was the spirit of I heroism in the home. And among the traditions there were those of singular virtue and i)»- [tegrity. He classed the dying precept of a hardy ancestor the proudest Idistinction of his family ; that precept was, " Be honest." Honesty is a [matchless birthright; he claimed it; he was not proud of anything else. [His father wa^ a man of " unflinching honesty," and was employed by le proprietors of Blantyre Works, in conveying very large sums of . 8 (33) ^i: 84 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ii 1 f ) i! • j <• money from Glascjow, and by the honorable kindness of the firm his integrity was so rewarded tliat his declining years were spent where he had lived, in ease a:vJ comfort. He was a man who kept the hearts of his child en. His kindness and real love were sweeter to them than all 'it wealth sometimes bestows as its peculiar gift. He brought his t I n\ DAVID LIVINGSTONE. hildren up religiously; it was in connection with the Kirk of Scot- land. . It is a beautiful tribute of his illustrious son : " My father deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me from my .infancy with a continuously consistent pious example. I revere his memory." The I THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. ie brought his e Kirk of Scot- ^ mother of the man appears briefly, and passes from the public view. She was a quiet, lovinuld catch sentence after sentence as he passed at his work. He was well paid, however, and having determined to prepare himself for becoming a med- ical missionary abroad, was enabled, by working with his hands in summer, to support himself while attending medical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlow. He was thus able to pass the lequired examinations, and was at length ad- mitted a licen- iate of the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons. Having been charged by the Directors of the London Missionary So- ciety to carry on and extend the work of Moffat, Livingstone arrived in Cape Town in the summer ot 1840, and, after a short rest, started for the interior by way of Algoa Ray. A j )urney of seven hundred miles, of which, so far as we have been able to ascert-iin, no record has been published, brought him to Lattaku, then tirj furthest missionary station of South Africa. Here he remained oii'y long enough to recruit his o.xen before he pressed on northwaiJs t^ that part of the country inhabited by the section of the Bjchuana t. ibj kiKjwn as the Bakwains. Having satisfied THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. 37 e of nineteen himself of the existence of a promising field for missionary effort, he re- turned to the Kuruman station, rested there for three months, and then took up his quarters in the Bakwain country itself, at the present Litu- baruba, at that time known as Lepelole. ' Determined to neglect nothi^ig which could in any way promote his success with the nadves, Livingstone now cut himself off from all inter- course with Europeans for six months, devoting himself to acquiring an nsight into the habits, ways of thinking, laws, and language of the Bechuanas, and in laying the foundations of a settlement by making a canal for irrigation purposes from a river near by. A Man Stronger Than He Looked. These prd'minaries being well advanced, our hero paid a visit to the Bakaa, Bamangwato, and the Makalaka. The greater part of this trip was performed on foot, the draught oxen being ill, and some of the na- tives forming the escort observed in Livingstone's hearing, not knowing that he understood them — " He is not strong; he is quite slim, and only seems stout because he puts himself into those bags [trousers]; he will break down." Stung by these derogatory remarks on his appearance, Livingstone revenged himself by keeping the whole party at highest speed for several days, and was rewarded later by hearing them speak more respectfully of his pedestrian powers. Having, without knowing it, approached to within ten days' journey of Lake N'gami, afterwards discovered by him, our hero went back to Kuruman to bring his luggage to the site of his proposed settlement, but before he could do so, came the disappointing news that the Bakwains, with whom he had become friendly, had been driven from Lepelole by the Baralongs, rendering it impossible for him to carry out his original plan. With the courage and energy which distinguished him from the first, Livingstone at once set about looking for some other site, and after a journey to Bamangwato, to restore to chief Sekomi several of his peo- ple who had come down with him to the Kuruman, and for whose safe«> he felt responsible, he selected the beautiful valley of Mabotsa, the home of the Makatla branch of the Bechuana tribe, where he removed in 1843. Here the chief difficulty to contend with ^«: first was the number and' ierocity of the lions, which not only leaped into the cattle pens of the village of Mabotsa at night, but sometimes attacked the herds in broad daylight. Expeditions sent out against the marauders returned without having achieved any success, and knowing that if but one of the troop of lions were killed the others would take alarm and leave the country, Livingstone determined himself to join a sortie against them. 38 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ': :i« :t;'!(l "ffw Great was the consternation of the natives, who firmly believed that a neighboripnf tribe had given them into the power of these merciless animals. Their attacks upon them were feeble and half-hearted, so that hitherto the lions had come off victors. Livingstone now came to their aid, and the cry was — " Mount ! mount for the hunting ! the lion is near ! The cattlt: and herdsmen are quakinjj with fear. Call tlie dogs ! light the torches ! away to the glen ! If needs be, we'll beard the fierce brute in his den." They discovered their t^aine on a small tree-covered hill. The circle of hunters, at first loosely formed around the spot, gradually closed up, and became compact as they advanced towards it. Mebalwe, a native schoolmaster, who was with Livingstone, seeing ore of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the ring, fired but missed him, the ball striking the rock by the feet of the animal, which, biting first at the spot struck, bounded away, broke through the circle, and escaped, the natives not having the courage to stand close and spear him in the attempt, as they should have done. The circle re formed, having yet within it two other lions, at which the pieces could not be fired, lest some of the men on the opposite side should be hit. Again there was a boupd and a roar, and yet again ; and the natives scattered and fled, while the lions went forth free to continue their devastations. «* He is Shot ! He is Sliot ! »» But they did not seem to have retreated far, for as the party was going round the end of a hill on their way home to the village, there was one of the lordly brutes sitting quietly, as though he had purposely planted himself there to enjoy their defeat, and wish them "Good-day." It was but a little distance from Livingstone, who, raising his gun, fired both barrels. "He is shot! He is shot!" j the j.oyful cry, and the people are about to rush in ; but their friend warns them, for he sees the tail raised in anger. He is just in the act of ramming down his bullets for another fire, when he hears a shout of terror, and sees the lion in the act of springing on him. He is conscious only of a blow that make.' him reel and fall to the ground ; of two glaring eyes, and hot breath upon his face; a momentary anguish, as he is seized by the shoulder and shaken as a rat by a terrier ; then comes a stupor, which was afterwards described as a sort of drowsiness, in which there was no sense of pain nor feeling of terrov, although there was a perfect consciousness of all that was happening. Being thus conscious, as one in a trance might be, Livingstone knew lieved that a se merciless ■-hearted, so now came to 1 The circle Uy closed up, alwe, a native ,e lions sitting 2 ball striking ; spot struck, le natives not cmpt, as they n it two other le of the men boupd and a vhile the lions le party was village, there lad purposely ' Good-day." his gun, fired cry, and the or he sees the )wn his bullets s the lion in -»w that makei nd hot breath shoulder and was afterwards sense of pain ousnoss of all ingstone knew 40 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ||ll| fi \ that the Hon had one paw on the back of his head, and, turning round to reUeve himself of the pressure, he saw the creature's eyes directed to Mebaiwe, who, at a distance of ten or fifteen yards, was aiming his gun at him. It missed fire in bodi barrels, and immediately the native teacher was attacked by the brute and bitten in the thigh. Another man also, who attempted to spear the lion, was seized by the shoulder; but then the bullets which he had received took eflfect, and, with a quiver through all his huge frame, tho cattle-lifter rolled over on his side dead. A Narrow Escape. All this occurred in a few moments ; the death-blow had been inflicteo by Livingstone before the Lion sprang upon him in the blind fury of his dying efforts. No less than eleven of his teeth had penetrated the flesh of his assailant's arm, and crushed the bone ; it was long ere the wound was 1 jaled, and all through life the intrepid missionary bore the marks of this deadly encounter, and felt its effects in the injured limb: The tartan jacket which he had on, wiped, as he believed, the virus from the lion's teeth, and so preserved him from much after-suffering, such as was experienced by the others who were bitten and had not this protection. These ferocious beasts are a constant menace to travellers in some parts of Afiica. Of course, if one goes out for the purpose of indulging in sport and shooting gapie, he is not disconcerted when he meets the king of the forest in his native lairs. Cumming's account of his en- countvjio with lions is so graphic and interesting that it is here inserted in connection with the thrilling story, already related, of Livingstone and the lion. Mr. Gumming first describes the appearance and habits of the noble beast. This is the account of one of the world's most famous hunters, whose journeys in the Tropics in pursuit of adventure, have attracted universal attention, and have awakened the most eager interest. The dignified and truly monarchical appearance of the lion, says Mr. Gum- ming, has long rendered him famous among his fellow quadrupeds. There is something so noble and imposing in the presence of the lion, when seen walking with dignified self-possession, free and undaunted, on his native soil, that no description can convey an adequate idea of his striking appearance. The lion is exquisitely formed by nature for the predatory habits which he is destined to pursue, Gombining in compara- tively small compass the qualities of power and agility, he is enabled, by means of the tremendous machinery with which nature has gifted him, easily to overcome and destroy ..Imost every beast of the forest, however superior to him in weight and stature. THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. 41 •ning round to 'es directed to iming his gun sly the native igh. Another the shoulder ; , with a quivej lis side dead. ] been inflicteo ind fury of his rated the flesh ere the wound ore the marks ed limb: The virus from the g, such as was his protection, ellers in some se of indulging he meets the unt of his en- here inserted )( Livingstone m Though considerably under four feet in height, he has little dif?iculty in dashing to the ground and overcoming the lofty and apparently pow- erful giraffe, whose head towers above the trees of the forest, and whose skin is nearly an inch in thickness. The lion is the constant attendant of the vast herds of buffaloes which frequent the interminable lorests of the interior; and a full-grown one, so long as his teeth are unbroken, gener ally proves a match for an old bull buffalo, which in size and strength greatly surpasses the most powerful breed of American cattle ; the lion also preys on all the larger varieties of the antelopes, and on both varie- ^'-V,""? \^-^ ■ ■' *l and is now lux- se fallen- by the : has robed him ave often heaid enty yat ds froir, :s of their forms, s massive arms, r noise in drink- water foi a loiv; pau.ses for half a , in a dark night, d active than the had young are inie is thi; lion so young ones. At )st intrepid man ance of this kind le reports I had of the Baseleka, shed suddenly to ) wards us with a | d imposing that e, and growling ipon us, and dis- among the timid | ras theirimediate^ ;ples of my dogs,^ in their coupler bold be-^ring hi ime solicitous for retreating in the h a haughty and trotted alo»!g on been discovered (45^ 1 46 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. a few minutes previous to this, upon which I was marching for the attack, I, with the most heartfelt reluctance, reserved my fire. On run ning down the hill side to endeavor to recall my dogs, I observed, for the first time, the retreating lioness with four cubs. About twenty minutes afterward two noble elephants repaid my forbearance. Among Indian Nimrods, a certain class of royal tigers is dignified with the appellation of "man-eaters." These are tigers which, having once 'tasted human flesh, show a predilection for the same, and such charac ters are very naturally famed and dreaded among the natives. Elderly gentlemen of similar tastes and habits are occasionally met with among the lions in the interior of South Africa, angi the danger of such neigh- bors may be easily imagined. I account for lions first acquiring this taste in the following manner: some tribes of the far interior do not bury their dead, but unceremoniously carry them forth, and leave them lying exposed in the forest or on the plain, a prey to the lion and hyaena, or the jackal and vulture; and I can readily imagine that a lion, having thus once tasted human flesh, would have little hesitation, when opportunity presented itself, of springing upon and carrying off the unwary traveler or native inhabiting his country. The Man-Eater at Work. Be this as it may, man-eating occurs; and on my fourth hunting expe- dition, a horrible tragedy was acted one dark night in my little lonely camp by one of these formidable characters, which deprived me, in the far wilderness, of my most valuable servant. In winding up these observations on the lion, I may remark that lion-hunting, under any circumstances, is decidedly a dangerous pursuit. It may nevertheless be followed, to a certain extent, with comparative safety by those who have naturally a turn for that sort of thing. A recklessness of death, perfect coolness and self-possession, an acquaintance with the disposition and manners of lions, and a tolerable knowledge of the use of the rifle, are indis- pensable to him who would shine in the overpoweringly exciting pastime of hunting this justly celebrated king of beasts. Livingstone himself narrates minutely his dreadful encounter with a lion. He always regarded it as one of his most thrilling experiences in Africa, and he had occasion to remember it from the fact that he was so severely injured. The wonder is that when the ferocious beast had the great explorer in his power and might easily have taken his life, he should have been prevented from doing it. A few moments more and the life of one of the world's greatest heroes would have been terminated CHAPTER III. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. Livingr tone's Life Among the Backwains— An Intelligent Chief— Trying to Whip the Heathen into Conversion— Appearance of the Backwains— Peculiar Head- Dress- Export Thie\es— A Bewitched Kettle— A Horrible Deed— An African Congress -Thrilling War Songs— Carrying on War for Glory— Livingstone'? Interest in tliis Tribe -Singular Superstitions— Medicine Men and Rain Doctors- Barbarous Practices— Severe Training for Boys— The Girls' Ordeal— Romantic Dances— Construction of Hous-s— Curious Burial Customs— Funeral Dances Among the Latookas— An Active Chief— The Rich No Better Than the Poor- Odd Decorations— Graceful Movements. 'OR years Livingtone labored among the Backwains, at Chonuane, whose chief was a man of great intelUgence, but who had some amusing ideas and ways. When he embraced Christianity he ited to make his subjects converts by thrashing them with whips of Inoceios hide. Livhigstone could not approve of this new mode of wersion, and the chief was persuaded to pursue a milder course. [ As Livingstone labored for years among the Backwains, or Bechuanas, [full account of the manners, customs, and singular character of this )e will be of interest to the reader. I In appjarance they are a fine race of men, in some respects similar to Kaffirs, with whom they have many customs in common. Their re.'^s is not very remarkable, except that they are perhaps the best dress- j-s of skins that are to be found in Africa, the pliancy of the skin and ke neatness of the sewing being unrivalled. They are good workers in [etal, and supply many of the surrounding tribes both with ornaments id weapons. As to dress, the Bechuanas, as a rule, use more covering than many of |e surrounding tribes. The women esp.'cially wear several aprons. le first is made of thongs, like those of the Kaffirs, and over that ir inerally one of skin. As she can afford it she adds others, but alway£ >ntrive3 to have the outside apron decorated with beads or other adorn- :nts. iThis series of aprons, however, is all that a Bechuana woman considers !»cessary in the way of dress, the kaross, or outside garment, being iopted merely as a defence against the weather, and not from any idea It covering to the body is needed for the purpose of delicacy. In (47) 48 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. figure they are not so prepossessing as many of the surrounding tribes, being usually short, stout, and clumsy, which latter defect is rendered still more conspicuous by the quantities of beads which they hang in heavy coils around their waists and necks, and the multitude of metal rings with which they load thcirarms and ankles. They even load their hair as much as possible, drawing it out into a serier, of little spokes, and dressing them so copiously with grease and sibilo, that at a few yards they look as if theii heads were covered with a cap composed of metallic prongs, and at a greater distance as if they were wearing bands of polished steel on their heads. They consider a plentiful smearing of grease and red ochre to be the very acme of a fashionable toilet, and think that washing the body is a disgusting custom. Women arc the smokers of the tribe, the men preferring snuff, and rather despis- ing the pipe as a woman's imple- ment. The Bechuanas can hardly be selected as examples of good moral character. No one who knows them can believe a word they say, and they will steal everything that they can carry. They are singu- larly accomplished thieves, and the habit of stealing is so ingrained in their nature, that if a man is de- tected in the very act he feels not the least shame, but rather takes blame to himself for being so inexpert as to be found out. Sipall articles they steal in the most ingenious manner. Should it be hang- ing up, they contrive to handle it carelessly and let it fall on the ground, and then they begin active operations. Standing near the covetec article, and trying to look as if they were not aware of its existence, they quietly scrape a hole in the sand with one of their feet, push the object of their desire into the hole, cover it up again with sand, and smooth the surface so as to leav, no trace that the ground has been disturbed. They steal each other's goods, whenever they can find an opportunity, but they are only too glad to find an opportunity of exercising their art on a white man, whose property is sure to be worth stealing. A travel- ler in their country has therefore a hard life, for he knows that there is PECULIAR HEAD-DRESS. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. • 49 not a single article in his possession which will not vanish if he leaves it unguarded f >r a few minutes. Indeed, as Mr. Baines well observes, there is not an honest nerve or fibre in a Bechuana's body; from the root of his tongue to the tips of his toes, every muscle is thoroughly trained in the art of thieving. If they merely sit near an article of moderate size, when they move off it moves with them, in a manner that no wearer ol trousers can conceive. Even Mr. Moffatt, who had a singular capacity for discovering good qualities which had lain latent and unsuspected, writes in very forcible terms respecting the uttqr dishonesty of the Bechuanas. Stealing: Cattle by Xisrht. Some mornings, says Mr. Moffatt, we had to record thefts committed in the course of twenty-four hours, in our houses, our smith-shop, our garden, and among our cattle in the field. These they have more than |once driven into a bog or mire, at a late hour informing us of the acci- dent, as they termed it ; and, as it was then too dark to render assistance, 'jpne or more would fall a prey to the hyaenas or hungry natives. One Height they entered our cattle-fold, killed one of our best draught oxen, rd carried the whole away, except one shoulder. We were compelled use much meat, from the great scarcity of grain and vegetables ; our eep we had to purchase at a distance, and very thankful might we be out of twenty we secured the largest half for ourselves. They would (break their legs, cut off their tails, and more frequently carry off the ^hole carcass. Tools, such as saws, axes, and adzes, were losses severely felt, as we fcould not at that time replace them, when there was no intercourse what- /er with the colony. Some of our tools and utensils which they stole, b finding the metal not what they expected, they would bring back ;aten into all shapes, and offer them in exchange for some other article ^f value. Knives were always eagerly coveted ; our metal spoons they lelted ; and when we were supplied with plated iron ones, which they )und not so pliable, they supposed them bewitched. Very often, when [mployed working at a distance from the house, if there was no one in ^hom he could confide, the missionary would be compelled to carry 'lem all to the place where he went to seek a draught of water, well know- Ig that if they were left they would take wings before he could return. An Iron Kettle Bewitched. The following ludicrous circumstance once happened, and was related th- writer^by r: native in graphic style. Two men had succeeded in baling an iron poL Having just taken it from the fire, it was rather ' " b 50 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. warm for handing conveniently over a fence, and by doing so it fell on a stone, and was cracked. '• It is iron," said they, and off they went with their booty, resolving to make the best of it ; that is, if it would not serve foi cooking, they would transform it into knives and spears. After some time had elapsed, and the hue and cry about the missing pot had nearly died away, it was brought forth to a native smith, who had laid in a stock of charcoal for the occasion. The pot was further, broken to make it more convenient to lay hold of with the tongs, which are gener- ally made of the bark of a tree. The native Vulcan, unacquainted with cast iron, having with his small bellows, one in each hand, produced a good heat, drew a piece from the fire. To his utter amazement, it flew into pieces at the first stroke of his little hammer. Another and another piece was brought under the action of the fire, and then under the hammer, with no better success. Both the thief and the smith, gazing with eyes and mouth dilated on the fragments of iron scattered round the stone anvil, declared their belief that the pot was bewitched, and concluded pot-stealing to be a bad speculation. i .tr ■ Expert Thieves. To the thieving propensities of these people there was no end. They would peep into the rude hut that was used for a church, in order to see who was preaching, and would then go off to the preacher's house, and rob it at their ease. When the missionaries, at the expense of great labor, made a series of irrigating canals, for the purpose of watering their gardens, the women would slyly cut the banks of the channels, and divert the water. They even broke down the dam which led the water from the river, merely for the sake of depriving somebody of something ; and when, in spite of all their drawbacks, some vegetables had been grown. | the crops were stolen, even though a constant watch was kept over them. These accomplished thieves have even been known to .steal meat out of the pot in which it was being boiled, having also the insolence to substitute a stone for the pilfered meat. One traveller found that all his followers were so continually robbed by the Bechuanas, that at last he ceased from endeavoring to discover the thieves, and threatened instead to punish any man who allowed an article to be stolen from him. They do not even spare their own chief, and would rob him with as little compunction as it he were a foreigner. There was need among such people of more than one Livingstone to teach them the virtue of honesty. Dr. Lichtenstcin, who certainly had a better opinion of the Bechuanas than ^' y deserved, was once cheated by them in a very ingenious M LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 51 Livingstone to manner. He had purchased three ivory rings with some tobacco, but ^vhen he left the place he found that the same ring had been sold to him three successive times, the natives behind him having picked his pockets with the dexterity of a London thief, and then passed the ring to their companions to be again offered for sale. Altogether, the character of the Bechuanas does not seem to be an agreeable one, and even the missionaries who have gone among them and naturally are inclined to look on the best side of their wild flocks have very little to say in their favor, and plenty to say against them. They seem to be as heartless toward the infirm and aged as the Nama- qnas, and if one of their numbf.r is ill or wounded, so that he cannot iwait upon himself, he is carried outside the camp, and there left until he ecovers or dies. A small and frail hut is built for him, a portion of food given to him daily, and in the evening a fire is made, and fuel placed ^ear so that it may be kept up. On one occasion the son of a chief was ounded by a buffalo, and, according to ancient custom, was taken out the camp. The fire happened to go out, and in consequence a lion me and carried off the wounded man in the night. It was once thought t this cruel custom arose from the fear of infection, but this is evi- ntly not the case, as persons afflicted with infectious diseases are not psturbed as long as they can help themselves. Superstition may proh- ibit be the true reason for it. A Horrible Deed. They have but little regard for human life, especially that of a woman, nd a husband may kill his wife if he likes, without any particular notice ing taken of it. One traveller mentions that a husband became angry ith his wife about some trifling matter, seized his assagai, and killed her the spot. The body was dragged out by the heels, and thrown into e bush to be devoured by the hyasnas, and there was an end of the hole business. The traveller, being horrified by such an action, laid an formation before the chief, and vvas only laughed at for his pains, the ief thinking that for anyone to be shocked at so ordinary an occur- nee was a very good joke. Still, the Bechuana has his redeeming qualities. They are not quar Isome, and Burchell remarks that, during all the time which he spent ong them, he never saw two men openly quarrelling, nor any public ach of decorum. They are persevering and industrious in the arts of ace, and, as has been seen, learn to work in iron and to carve wood h a skill that can only be attained by long and careful practice. They more attached to the soil than many of the neighboring tribes, culti- .iS 52 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. li-# vating it carefully, and in this art far s'Trpassing the Kaffirs. Tl' Mr houses, too, are of elaborate construction, and built with a care and S'. * lidity which show that the inhabitants are not nomads, but residents on one spot. ■ ■ ' ,■ '' The government of the Bechuanas is primarily monarchical, but not , entirely despotic. The king has his own way in most matters, but his chiefs can always exercise a check upon him by summoning a parliament or " Picho," as it is called. The Picho affords a truly wild and pictur esque spectacle. The warriors, in their full panoply of war, seat them selves in a circle, in the midst of which is the chair of the king. The various speakers take their turns at addressing the assembly, and speak with the greatest freedom, not even sparing the king himself, but pub- licly arraigning him for any shortcomings, real or fancied, and sometimes gaining their point. As to the king himself, he generally opens the par- liament with a few sentences, and then remains silent until all the speeches liave been delivered. He then answers those that have been made against himself, and becomes greatly excited, leaping about the ring, brandishing his spear and shield, and lashing himself into an almost frantic state. This is the usual procedure among savages, and the more excited a man becomes, the better he is supposed to speak afterward. All African Coii{presi?. v An extract from Mr. Moffatt's account of a Picho will give a good idea of the proceedings:. Although the whole exhibits a very grotesque scene, bu.-?iness is carried on with the most perfect order. There is but little cheering, and still less hissing, while every speaker fearlessly states his own sentiments. The audience is seated on the ground,each man having before him his war-club. Many were adorned with tiger-skins and tails, and had plumes of feathers waving on their heads. In the centre a suffi- cient space was left for the privileged — those who had killed an enemj- in battle — to dance and sing, in which they exhibited the most violent and fantastic gestures conceivable, which drew forth from the spectators the most clamorous applause. When they retire to their seats, the speaker commences by command ng silence. " Be silent, ye Batlapis, be silent, ye Barolongs," addressing ftach tribe distinctly, not excepting the white people, if any happen to be present, and to which each responds with a groan. He then takes from his shield a .spear, and points it in the direction in which the enemy is advancing, imprecating a curse upon them, and thus declari'ig war by rc- ))oatcdly thrusting his spear in that direction, as if plunging i: into an crummy. This receives a loud whistling sound of applau.se. He next r#» .JUmmi«.^ Kaffirs. Tl' ir I a care and S' * »ut residents on rchical, but not matters, but his [g a parliament vild and pictur war, seat them :he king. The nbly, and speak imself, but pub- , and sometimes ' opens the par- all the speeches :n made against ng, brandishing ost frantic state. ; excited a man ive a good idea rotesque scene, ere is but little essly states his ,ch man having ikins and tails, centre a suffi |llcd an enemj- le most violent the sj>ectator.s by command js," addressing happen to be Ml takes from the enemy i> [i".g war by iv- [^ing i! into an ISC. He next l'i;i iiiiiiii:ii' ii'liiiili.iilJ'il-IBIiili piiiii; liiill lf?g||i ^JI^-:ii-;:!l,lh:;ii„i,!;ll,.lMi!i!i,ii;l'liiiiiii' i i 'i '::'v" i'ii Illi'il 11! Ifllliliii ';ill!ii'i; I ;i,:iijll llli.1: i'lll!' :!l I I'l fell. il, I'll lllj I'll i'lllilbili'i!;.;!:,!;''!; '■i'lij''i .:'■ ii','' r ■ ;'l;|lll! I .'i,'- 1 V : i Iiiilii I'll iiiilllii'^iSlliilllpiliiili:!!:;' 'i'' t,'!iii:ii; ji'i|i|iii!jl|iii|j iii'i '' i'"i.'i ■ i|; ,i;;JV'':i' ■ ■•■'■■' ' "^'"' ''il liiaii^isiv;!^^^^ " I'll ''(I I I ,'■ Id' ill 1.1 il'l';-, ■•■''M! .. 'j jllli! m. |;!!P| ~^ J i'"i'', '■ "lit 'ill, I' £jgr4 s^!li''i:- I ■' ''i/HJJ I'iljll .I'i'ii'n:: iMil; IV,' ii"''i'!i!'l!l iillvb''^ . y^ii'l,! jp,!'!i||i |ii||!!| ''li»i.,!ir'i''''':ll^ ■ir"iVin!!l:H;!'i;|ii.-,,iii fe!' II' ':''".!''' I I !:!i;'l!l|l!|!ii:ii!l;';ii ;,;i!;iii'i;;j[.|;.i;i;,;;.li^ mm i;lil4i:'ili!,':.:i!i'yiiiii!i!;,i:iiiiiiiiiini:iiii Miii i.iiili,;i;r 'I.'!. Hi (53) ^ .'■; ill f WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. directs his spear toward the Bushman country, south and southwest, rimprecating also a curse on those " ox-eaters," as they are called. The king, on this, as on all similar occasions, introduced the business of the day by "Ye sons of Molchabanque " — viewing all the influential men present as the friends or allies of his kingdom, which rose to more than its foi mer eminence under the reign of that monarch, his father— " the Mantatees are a strong and victorious people ; they have over- ivhelmed many nations, and they are approaching to destroy us. We have been apprised of their manners, their deeds, their weapons, and their intentions! We cannot stand against the Mantatees; we must now concert, conclude, and be determined to stand. ThrUlingr War-Sougrs* " The case is a great one. I now wait to hear what the general opinion is. Let every one speak his mind, and then I shall speak again." Mothibi manoeuvred his spear as at the commencement, and then pointing it toward heaven, the audience shouted *' Pula " (rain), on which he sat down amidst a din of applause. Between each speaker a part or verse of a war-song is sung, the same antics are then performed, and again universal silence is commanded. When several speakers had delivered their sentiments, chiefly exhort- ing to unanimity and courage, Mothibi resumed his central position, and after the usual gesticulations, commanded silence. Having noticed some remarks of the preceding speakers, he added : " It is evident that the best plan is to proceed against the enemy, that they come no nearer. Let not our towns be the seat of war ; let not our houses be the scenes of blood- shed and destruction. No! let the blood of the enemy be spilt at a dis- tance from our wives and children." Turning to the aged chief, he said : " I hear you. my father; I understand you, my father; your words are true, they are good for the ear ; it is good that we be instructed by the Makooas ; I wish those evil who will not obey ; I wish that they may be broken into pieces." Then addressing the warriors, "There are many of you who dc iiot deserve to cat out of a bowl, but only out of a broken pot; think )n what has been said, and obey without murmuring. I command you, ye chiefs of the Batiapis, Batlares, Bamairis, Barolongs, and Bakotus, that you acquaint all your tribes of tiie proceedings of this day ; let none bo ignorant; I say again, ye warriors, prepare for the battle; let your shields be strong, your quivers full of arrows, and your battle-axes as sharp as Lunger. Be silent, ye kidney-caters " (addressing the old men), " ye are of no further use- but to hang about for kidneys when d southwest, ailed. the business he influential rose to more I, his father — ;y have over- troy us. We >ons, and their ve must now t the general ; shall speak ^ncement, and jla " (rain), on ach speaker a en performed, liefly exhort- position, and noticed some that the best brer. Let not nes of blood- spilt at a dis- :hief, he said : vc words are ructed by the they may be 1 '■if f LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. •• an ox is slaughtered. If your oxen are taken, where will you get any more?" This was the chief's spirited address to the men. Eloquent Appeal to Women. Turning to the women he said, " Prevent not the warrior from going out to battle by your cunning insinuations. No, rouse the warrior to Dlory, and he will return with honorable scars, fresh marks of valor will cover his thighs, and we shall then renew the war-song and dance, and relate the story of our conquest." At the conclusion of this speech the ail was rent with acclamations, the whole assembly occasionally joining in the dance; the women frequently taking the weapons from the hands of the men and brandishing them in the most violent manner, people of all ages using the most extravagant and frantic gestures for nearly two hours. In explanation of the strange word, " kidney-eaters," the reader must be made aware that kidneys are eaten only by the old of both sexes. Young people will not touch them on any account, from the superstitious idea that they can have no children if they do so. The word of applause, "pula," or rain, is used metaphorically to signify that the words of the speaker are to the hearers like rain, on a thirsty soil. In the last few lines of the king's speech, mention is made of the " honorable scars upon the thighs." He is here alluding to a curious practice among the Bechuanas. After a battle, those who have killed an enemy assemble by night, and, after exhibiting the trophies of their prowess, each goes to the prophet or priest, who takes a sharp assagai and makes a long cut from the hip to the knee. One of these cuts is made for each enemy that has been slain, and some distinguished wai- riors have their legs absolutely striped with scars. The Order of the Scar. As the wound is a tolerably deep one, and as ashes are plentifully rubbed into it, the scar remains for life, and is more conspicuous than it would be in an American, leaving a white track upon the dark skin. In spite of the severity of the wound, all of the successful warriors join in a dance, which is kept up all night, and only terminates at sunrise. No one is allowed to make the cut for himself, and anyone who did so would at once be detected by the jealous eyes of his companions. Moreover irv order to substantiate his claim, each warrior is obliged to produce hh trophy — a small piece of flesh with the skin attached, cut frgm the body of his foe. When the ceremony of investiture with the Order of the Scar takes place, a large fire is made, inside which no one may pass except the priest and those who can show a trophy. On the outside of the fence are con- 1 m\\ it I. K.' 06 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. gregated the women and all the men who have not been fortunate enough to distinguish themselves. One by one the warriors advance to the priest, show the trophy, have it approved, and then take their place round the fire. Each man then lays the trophy on the glowing coals, and, when it is thoroughly roasted, eats it. This custom arises from a notion that the courage of the slain warrior then passes into the body cf the man who killed him, and aids also in making him invulnerable. The Bechuanas do not like this custom, but, on the contrary, view it v/ith nearly as much abhorrence as Europeans can do, only yielding to it from a desire not tc controvert the ancient custom of their nation. Butchery for Glory. It may well be imagined that this ceremony incites the warriors, both old and young, to distinguish themselves in battle, iii order that they may have the right of entering the sacred fence, and be publicly invested with the honorable scar of valor. On one such occasion, a man who was well known for his courage could not succeed in killing any of the encm)-, because their numb-rs were so comparatively small that all had been killed before he could reach them. At night he was almost beside him- self with anger and mortification, and positively wept with rage at bein^^ excluded from the sacred enclosure. At last he sprang away from the place, ran at full speed to his house, killed one of his own .servants, ami returned to the spot, bringing with him the requisite passport of admit- tance. In this act he was held to be perfectly justified, because the slain man was a captive taken in war, and therefore, according to Bechuanan ideas, his life belonged to his master, and could be taken whenever it might be more useful to him than the living slave. In war, the Bechuanas are but cruel enemies, killing the wounded with- out mercy, and even butchering the inoffensive women and children. The desire to possess the coveted trophy of success is probably the cause uf their ruthlessness. In some divisions of the Bechuana tribes, such as the Bachapins, the successful warriors do not eat the trophy, but dry it and hang it round their necks, eating instead a portion of the liver of the slain man. In all cases, However, it seems that some part of the enemy has tc be eaten. The weapons used in war are not at all like those which are emplo) cd by the Kaffirs. The Bechuanan shield is much smaller than that of the Kaffirs. The assagai is not intended to be used as a missile, but as a weapon for hand-to-hand combat. Indeed, the amount of labor which is bestowed upon it renders it too valuable to be flung at an enemy, who might avoid the blow, and then seize the spear and keep it. ■ ^-"Ji i '■*! ! )■ ■ . .•.^< i r-.;v^ ►rtunate enough advance to the leir place round lis, and, when it notion that the )f the man who The Bechuanas nearly as much a desire not tc e warriors, both rr that they may ly invested with in who was well y of the enemy, at all had been lost beside hini- h rage at beinj,' ; away from the •n servants, and jsport of admit- ^cause the slain -r to Bechuanan cen whenever it : wounded with- d children. The bly the cause of ibcs, such as the r, but dry it and liver of the slain le enemy has tc ;h arc emplo)'ea ;han that of the missile, but as a f labor which is an enemy, who it. ->.• WARRIOR WITH SPEARS AND SHIELD. (J5T) ns WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. The Bechuanas havi one weapon which is very effective at close quar- ters. This is the battle-axe. Various as are the shapes of the heads, they aue all made on one principle, and, in fact, an a.xe is nothing more than an enlarged spearhead fixed transversely on the handle. The ordi- nary battle-axes ha\'e their heads fastened to wooden handles, but the best ,'xamples have the handles made of rhinoceros horn. Dr. Livingstone was greatly interested in these barbarous people. He studied their customs, their domestic life, their warfare, their triditions, their very thoughts. By a long residence among them he became thor- oughly acquainted with everything of interest pertaining to them. The wild life of Africa did not dnunt our rer'owned explorer; he had gone to the ark Continent kp :)wii: he r)- 'twas. To Livingstoi;e belongs the credit of carrying the Hgl t o( k;; ^wledge and religion to this remark- able people. Strange Sup. i ,:Hions. Of religion the Bechuanans knew nothing, though they have plenty of superstition, and are as utter .slaves to their witch doctors as can well be conceived. The life of one of these personages is full of danger. He practises his ar«-s with the full knowledge that if he should fail, death is nearly certain to be the result. Indeed, it is very seldom that a witch doctor, especially if ho should happen to be also a rain-maker, dies a natural deatl', he generally falling a victim to the clubs of his quondam followers. These men evidently practice the art of conjuring, as we understand the word, and they can perform their tricks with great dexterity. One of thes'' men exhibited several- of his performances to Mr. Baines, the well-known traveller, and displayed no small ingenuity in the magic art. Hi:: first trick was to empty, or to appear to empty, a skin bag and an old hat, and then to shake the bag over the hat, when a piece of meat or hide fell from the former into the latter. Another performance .was to tie up a bead necklace in a wisp of grass, and hand it to one of the white spectators to burn. Hj then passed the bag to the most incredu- lous of the spectators, allowed him to feel it and prove that it was empty, ,vhilc the hat was being examined by Mr. Baines and a friend. Calling out to the holder of the bag, he pretended to throw something through the air, and, when the bag was duly shaken, out fell the beads into the hat. This was really a clever trick, and, though any reader who has some practical acquaintance with the art of legerdemain can see how it was done, it is not a little surprising to sec such dexterity possessed by a sav- ti ,,{ §' I ,t close quar- of the head.s, lothing more ?. The ordi- idles, but the people. He leir traditions, became thor- o them. The e had gone to jstor.e belongs o this remark- have plenty of as can well be f danger. He d fail, death is \\ that a vvitcii maker, dies a his quondam ive understand xterity. One r. Baines, the he magic art. n bag and an cce of meat or nance .was to to one of the most incredu- it was empty, icnd. Calling thing through he beads into ^vho has some ;e how it was :ssed by a sav- m m WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ' i: age. The success of this trick was the more remarkable because the holder of the bag had rather unfairly tried to balk the performer. The Coiv{urer Exposed. On a subsequent occasion, however, the conjurer attempted the same trick, vaiying it by requesting the beads should be broken instead of burned. The holder of the beads took the precaution of marking them with ink before breaking them, and in consequence all the drumming of the conjurer could not reproduce them until after dark, when another string of beads, precisely similar in appearance, was found under the wagon. Being pressed on the subject, the conjurer admitted that they were not the .same beads, but said that they had been sent supematurally to replace those which had been broken. The same operator was tolerably clever at tricks with cord, but had to confess that a nautical education conferred advantages in that respect to which his supernatural powers were obliged to yield. He once invited Mr. Baines to see him exhibit his skill in the evening. A circle of girls and women now surrounded the wizard, and commenced a pleasing but monotonous chant, clapping their hands in unison, while he, seated alter- nately on a carved stool and on a slender piece of reed covered with a skin to prevent its hurting him, kept time for the hand-clapping, and seemed trying to work himself up to the required state of inspiration, liil his whole flesh quivered like that of a person in the ague. A few preparatory anointings of the joints of all his limbs, his breast and forehead, as well as those of his choristers, followed ; shrill whistlings were interchanged with spasmodic gestures, and now it was found that the exhibition of the evening \.as a bona fide medical operation on the pcrsi n of a man who lay covered with skins outside of the circle. The posteriir portion of the thigh was chosen for scarification, but as the fire gave \\y> \ light in that direction, and the doctor and the relatives liked no one tn touch the patient, no one could ascertain how deep the incisions were madt, Most probably, from the scars seen of former operations of the kind, they I were merely deep enough to draw blood. Ciiriiijr u Sick Man. The singing and hand-claj^ping now grew more vehement, the doctc threw himself upon the patient, perhaps sucked the wound, at all event | pretended to inhale the di.scase. Strong convulsions seized him, and, a* he was a man of powerful frame, it required no little strengtn to hold liin; At length, with upturned eyes and face expressive of suffocation, he seizedj his knife, and, thrusting it into his mouth, took out a large piece appar j ently of hide and flesh, which his admiring audience supposed him toj V. *: LIVINGSTONE ANfONG SAVAGES. 61 ble because the rformer. mpted the same okcn instead of f marking them lie drumming of k, when another ound under the nitted that they nt supematurally cord, but had to n that respect to He once invited A circle of girls :d a pleasing but i he, seated altcr- I covered with a md-clapping, and of inspiration, liil ue. limbs, his breast | shrill whistlings | as found that the ion on the pcrs* ii '^ . The posterior the fire gave lu 2S liked no one tc ;isions were niadi, of the kind, they I ement, the doctc und, at all even; eized him, ancl,a>| ;ngtn to hold hin: focation, he seized arge piece appar supposed him toj have previously drawn from the body of the patient, thus removing the cause of the disease. Sometimes the Bechuana doctor uses a sort of dice, if such a term may be used when speaking of objects totally unlike the dice which are used in this country. In form they are pyramidal, and are cut from the cloven hoof of a small antelope. These articles do not look very valuable, but they are held in the highest estimation, inasmuch as very few know .how to prepare them, and they are handed down from father to son through successive generations. The older they are, the more powerful [are they supposed to be, and a man who is fortunate enough to possess [them can scarcely be induced to part with them. These magic dice are used when the proprietor wishes to know the Iresult of some undertaking. He smooths a piece of ground with his land, holds the dice between his fingers, moves his hands up and down jveral times, and tUcn allows them to fall. He then scans them care- feiUy, and judges from their position what they fortell. The characters fr figures described on the surface have evidently some meaning, but rhat their signification was the former possessor either did not know, or lid not choose to communicate. A Cliarm for the Neck. The children, when they first begin to trouble themselves and their irents by the process of teething, are often furnished with a kind of imulet. It is made of a large African beetle. A number of them are dlled, dried, and then strung on leathern thongs, so as to be worn round the neck. These objects have been mistaken for whistles. The Bechu- mas have great faith in their powers when used for teething, and think that they are efficacious in preventing various infantile disorders. Like the Kaffirs, the Bechuanas make use of certain religious cere- [monies before they go to war. One of these rites consists of laying a (charm on the cattle, so that they shall not be seized by the enemy. The )xen are brought singly to the priest, if we may so call him, who is furnished with a pot of black paint, and a jackal's tail by way of a brush. ^ith this primitive brush he makes a certain mark upon the hind leg of [the animal, while at the same time an assistant, who kneels behind him, repeats the mark in miniature upon his back or arms. To this ceremony they attribute great value ; and, as war is almost invariably made for the ike of cattle, the Bechuanas may well be excused for employing any rite which they fancy will protect such valued possessions. Among one branch of the Bechuana tribe, a very remarkable ceremony observed when the boys seek to be admitted into the rank of mea t! il I C2 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. The details arc kjpt very secret, but a few of the particulars have been •Jiscovercd. Dr. Livingstone, for example, happened once to witness the second stage of the ceremonies, which last for a considerable timo. A number of boys, about fourteen years of age, without a ve-.tigc o/" clothing, stood in a row, and opposite those was an equal number of men CttCh having in his hand a long switch cut from a bush belongin;; to the fjenus Grewia, and called in the native language moretloa Th.e t'vigs n this bush are very strong, tough, and supple. Both the men and boj were en ;:a 'Ted in an odd kind of dance, called " koha," which the ncn evidentl/ enjoyed, and the boys had to look as if they enjoyed it loo. Fach boy was furnished with a pair of the ordinary hide sandals, which lie wore on his hands instead of his feet. At stated intervals, the men put certain questions to the boys, respecting their future life w!ien admitted into the society of men. Barbarous Practices. ' ^ For example, the youth is tried in some such way as the following: ' Will you herd the cattle well ? " asks the man. " I will," answers the boy, at the same time lifting his sandalled hands (.ver his head. The man then leaps forward, and with his full force strikes at the boy's head. The blow is received on the uplifted sandals, but the elasticity of the long switch causes it to curl over the boy's head with such f irce that a deep gash is made in his back, some twelve or eighteen inches in length, from which the blood spirts as if it were made with a knife. Ever afterward, the lesson that he is to guard the cattle is supposed to be indelibly impressed on the boy's mind. Then comes another question, " Will you guard the chief well ? " " I will," replies the boy, and another stroke impresses that lesson on the boy's mind. And thus they proceed, until the whole series of ques- tions has been asked and properly answered. The worst part of the proceeding is, that the boys are obliged, under penalty of rejection, to continue their dance, to look pleased and happy, and not to wince at the terrible strokes which cover their bodies with blood, and seam thei; backs with scars that last throughout their lifetime'. Painful as this ordea' must be, the reader must not think that it is nearly so formidable to thr Bechuanas as it would be to Americans. In the first place, the ncrvcu: system of a white man is far more sensitive than that of South African natives, *id injuries which would lay him prostrate have but little effect upon them. Moreover, their skin, from constant exposure to the ele- ments, is singularly insensible, so that the stripes do not inflict a tenth part cf the pain that they would if suffered by a white person. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 63 ars have been to witness the blc timo. Lit a vc'-.tige of lumber of men ;longin;j to tl)L Th.c t'vijjs o men and boy; vhich the ncr, :njoycd it \.oo. sandals, which ;rvals, the men ture life w!ien e following: Only the older men are allowed to take part in this niode of instruc- tion of the boys, and if any man should attempt it who is not qualified, he is unpleasantly reminded of his presumption by receiving on his own back the stripes which he intended to inflict on the boys, the old men being in such a case simultaneously judges and executioners. No eleva- tion ot rank will allow a man to thus transgress with impunity ; and on oi.^ occasion, Sekomi himself, the chief of the tribe, received a severe iandalled hands I his full force ipliftcd sandals, the boy's head iome twelve or if it were made uard the cattle ef well ? " that lesson on series of ques- st part of the of rejection, to wince at the nd scam thei; 1 as thio ordea' rmidable to thr c, the ncrvou: South African but little efloct ire to the ele- inflict a tenth son. ^ i i mj M^^i^^ Tf AINING nOYS FOR HARDSHIPS. blow on the leg from one of his own people. This kind of ordeal, called Tie Sechu, is only practise 1 among three tribes, one of which is the Ba- langwato, of which Sekomi was the chief It takes place every six or seven years, so that a large number of boys Ire collected. These are divided into bands, each of which is unrV r the ^mmand of one of the sons of the chief, and each member is supo.sed ^ be a companion of his leader for life. They are taken into the wood* ^m the skin of some large animal, such as an ox or a zebra, and is ther more than two feet in length and one in width. It is formed from tough piece of hide, which is cut to the proper shape and then turned ^er and sewed, the seams being particularly firm and strong. The hide the quagga is said to be the best, as it gives to the milk a peculiar Ivor, which is admired by the natives. [The skin is taken from the back of the animal, that being the stronges • It is first stretched on the ground with woodcnpegs, and the hair iped off with an adze. It is then cut to the proper shape, and iked in water until soft enough to be worked. Even with care, tse bags are rather perishable articles; and when used for water, tY do not last so long as when they are employed for milk. jrather large opening is left at the top, and a small one at the bottom, * of which are closed by conical plugs. Through the upper orifice -■■"- is poured into the bag in a fresh state, and removed wheu milk 66 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. coagulated; and through the lower aperture the whey is drawn off as v^anted. As is the case with the Kaffir milk baskets, the Bechuana milk bags are never cleaned, a small amount of sour milk being always left in them, so as to aid in coagulating the milk, which the natives never drink in a fresh state Skillftil Carving. ' When traveling, the Bechuanas hang their milk bags on the backs of oxen ; and it sometimes happens that the jolting of the oxen, and con •sequent shaking of the bag, causes the milk to be partially churned, so that small pieces of butter are found floating in it. The butter is very highly valued ; but it is not eaten, being reserved for the more important office of greasing the hair or skin. The spoons which the Bechuanas use are often carved in the most elaborate manner. In general shape they resemble those used by the Kaffirs — who, by the way, sometimes purchase better articles from the Bechuanas — but the under surface of the bowl is entirely covered with designs, which are always effective, and in many cases are absolutely artistic from the boldness and simplicity of the designs. Livingstone had some spoons, in all of which the surface had first been charred and pol- ished, and then the pattern cut rather deeply, so as to leave yellowish- white lines in bold contrast with the jetty black of the uncut portion. Sometimes it happens that, when they are traveling, and have no spoons with them, the Bechuanas rapidly scoop up their broth in the right hand, throw it into the palm of the left, and then fling it into the mouth, taking care to lick the hands clean after the operation. Musie and Dancing^* Music is practised by the Bechuana tribes, who do not use the goura, , but merely employ a kind of reed pipe. The tunes that ar« played upon j this instrument are of a severely simple character, being limited tea single note, repeated as often as ♦he performer chooses to play it. ;\ very good imitation of Bechuanan instrumental music may be obtained by taking a penny whistle, and blowing it at intervals. In default of a whistle, a key will do quite as well. Vo»,al music is known better among the Bechuanas than among most other tribes — or, at all events, U not so utterly opposed to American ideas of the art. The melody is simple enough, consisting chiefly of descending and ascending by thirds; and! they have a sufficient appreciation of harmony to sing in two parts with- out producing the continuous discords which delight the soul of tliej Hottentot tribes. These rcc J pipes, called " lichAka," are of various lengths, and are! LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 67 blown exactly like Pandean pipes, that is, transv^ersely across the orifice, which is cut with a slight slope. Each individual has one pipe only, and, AS above stated, can only play one note. But the Bechuanas have enough musical ear to tune their pipes to any required note, which they do by pushing or withdrawing a movable plug which closes the reed at the lower end. When a number of men assemble for the purpose of singing and danc- ing, they tune their pipes beforehand, taking great pains in getting the I precise note which they want, and being as careful about it as if they be- [longed to an American orchestra. The general efifect of these pipes, Iplayed together, and with certain intervals, is by no means inharmonious, id has been rather happily compared to the sound of sleigh or wagon ills. The correct methqd of holding the pipe is to place the thumb igainst the cheek, and the forefinger over the upper lip, while the other ^hree fingers hold the instrument firmly in its place. These little instru- lents run through a scale of some eleven or twelve notes. Graceful Movements. The dances of the Bechuanas are somewhat similar to those of the imakosa and other Kaffirs ; but they have the peculiarity of using a ither remarkable headdress when they are in full ceremonial costume, 'his is made from porcupine quills arranged in a bold and artistic man- ler, so as to form a kind of coronet. None of the stiff and short quills )f the porcupine are used for this purpose, but only the long and slender juills which adorn the neck of the animal, and, in consequence of tt eir freat proportionate length, bend over the back in graceful cuives. These headdresses are worn by the men, who move themselves about so to cause the pliant quills to A'ave backward and forward, and so ■ron- frive to produce a really graceful effect. The headdress is not considered in essential i)art of the dance, but is used on special occasions. When (lancing, they arrange themselves in a ring, all looking inward, >ut without troubling themselves about their number or any particular Arrangement. The size of the ring depend* entirely upon the nnmber of Jancers, as they press closely together. Each is at liberty to use any step Vhich he may think proper to invent, and to blow his reed pipe at any itervals that may seem most agreeable to him. But each man contrives move very slowly in a slanting direction, so that the whole ring re- solves on the same spot, making, on an average, one revolution pei linute. ' The direction in which it moves seems perfectly indifferent, as at one Ime it will revolve from right to left, and then, without any apparent rea- 08 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. i li .son, the motion is reveised. Dancers enter and leave the ring just as • hey feel inclined, sonic of the ciders only taking part in the dance for a few minutes, and others dancing for hours in succession, merely retirinf,' occasionally to rest their wearied limbs. The dancers scarcely speak at all when engaged in this absorbing atrtusement, though they accompany Iheir reed whistles with native songs. Round the dancers is an externa' ring of women and girls, who follow them as they revolve, and keep tin\ to their movements by clapping their hands. Substitute for Handkerchief. As is usual in this country, a vast amount of exertion is used in the dance, and, as a necessary consequence, the dancers are bathed in per- spiration, and further inconvenienced by the melting of the grease with which their heads and bodies are thickly covered. A handkerchief would be the natural resort of an American under such circumstances; but the native of Southern Africa does not possess such an article, and therefore is obliged to make use of an implement which seems rather ill adapted for its purpose. It is made from the bushy tail of jackals, and is prepared asfoMows: The tails are removed from the animals, and, while they arc- yet fresh, the skin is stripped from the bones, leaving a hollow tube of fur-clad skin. Three or four of these tails are thus prepared, and throui^li them is thrust a stick, generally about four feet in length, .so that the tail forms a sort of loni: and verv soft brush. This is used as a handkerchief, not only by the Bechuanas, but by nianv f if the neighboring tribes, and is thoug'it a necessary part of a Bechuana's wardrobe. The stick on which they are fi.xed is cut from the very h( ;i:t of the kameel-dorn acacia, where the wood is peculiarly hard and blacL, and a very great amount of labor is expended on its manufacture. A chief will sometimes have a far more valuable implement, which he uses for the same purpose. Instead of being made of mere jackal tails, iti^ formed from ostrich feathers. The remarkable excellence of the Bechuanas in the arts of peace shoulii be noticed. They are not oitly the best fur-dre.ssers and metal-workcr> but they are pre-em nent among all the tribes of that portion of African their architecture. Not being a nomad people, and being attached tollk soil, t'jvy have no idea of contenting them.selves with the mat-covcrtiii cages ( i th^ Iloitcntots, or with the simple wattle-and-daub huts of tli Kaffirs, 'i 1 'do not merely build huts, but erect houses, and display i an ingf Tu'ty hi \hc'\r constructio i that is perfectly astonishing. Whcna tlic) r.cri'',1 Oieir aclu'tectioiii knowledge, no one knows. Why tk Kaffu \W!'> arc; ai^o men i)r the soil, should nut have learned from tin:; LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. ((9 is used in llic Dathed in ptr- he grease with kerchief would tances; but Ihc :, and therefore her ill adapted and is prepareil . while they arc I hollow tube oi Lxl.and throut,ni , hO that the tail neighbors how to build better houses, no one can tell. The fact remains, tliat" the Bechuana is simply supreme in arclntecture, and there is no neighboring tribe that is even worthy to be ranked in the second class. im \aj^ '^W fi ; f...' ^/^- .'■■<^J¥ :^!iS^' %*" ^/i CUKIOUS MOUSES BUILT KY WHITE ANTS. Tlie house of Diii^an, tlic fjrcat Kaffir despot, was exactly like that of kny of his subjects, only larger, and the supporting posts co^ .ed with eads. Now a Bechuana of very moderate rank would be ashamed of WONDERS OF 'HE TROPICS. such an edifice by way of a residence; and even the poor — if we may use the word — can build houses for themselves quite as good as that o( Dingan. Instead of being round topped, as is the case with the Kaffir huts, the houses of the Bechuanas are conical, and the shape may be p-oughly deftned by saying that a Bechuana's hut looks something like a ^imge whipping-top with its point upward. It resembles the curious houses built by that marvellous insect, the white ant, itself one of tlie wonders of the Tropics. A man of moderate rank makes his house in the following manner- . or, rather, orders his wives to build it for him, the women being the only architects. First, a number of posts are cut from the kameCl-dorn acacia- tree, their length varying according to the office which they have to fulfil. Supposing, for example, that the house had to be sixteen or twenty feet in diameter, some ten or twelve posts are needed, which will be about nine feet in height when planted in the ground. These are placed in a circk and firmly fixed at tolerably equal distances. Next comes a smaller circle of much smaller posts, whicli. when fixed in the ground, measure from fiiteen to eighteen feet in heiglit, one of them being longer than the rest, ikjth the circles of posts *re connected with beams which are fastened to their tops The next process is to lay a sufficient quantity of rafters on these posts, so that they all meet at one point, and these are tightly lashed together. This point is seldom in the exact cen*ro, so that the hut always looks rather lop sided. A roof macio of reeds is then placed upon the rafters, . .id the skeleton of the house is complete. The thatch is held in its place by a number of long and thin twigs, which are bent, and the eiul thrust into the thatch. The- i twigs are set in parallel rows, and hold the tbatch firmly together. The slof)e of the roof is rather slight, and is al\A'ays that of a depressed cone, but it is sufficient to carry off the water :md keep the interior dry. Singular Walls tor IIoilscs. Now come the walls. The post^ which form the outer circle are con nectcd with a wall sometimes about six feet high, but r-equ«nitly only two feet or so. But the wall which connects the inner circle is eight or ter feet in height, and sometimes reaches nearly to the roof of the house. These walls are generally made of the >' imosa thorns, which are so inge- niously woven that the garments of those who pass by are in no danger, while they effectually prevent even the smallest animal fron: creepin.; through. The inside of the wall is strengthened as well as smoothed hy a thick coating of clay. The family live in the cential compartment i! , -"^s^ LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 71 wmg manner- . being the only sd-dorn acacia- ev have to fulfil. n or twenty feet :h will be about are placed in a conies a smaller Tound, measure longer than the iani.s which are ! on these posts, .nshed together. t always looks pon the rafters, ch is held in its It, and the end s, and hold \\\<: ' slight, and is ■y off the water the house, while the servants inhabit the other portion, which also serves as a verandah in which the family can sit in the daytime, and enjoy the double benefit of fresh air and shade. Around this house is a tolerably high paling, made in a similar fashion of posts and thorns, and within this enclosure the cattle are kept, when their owner is rich enough to build an enclosure for their especial use. This fence, or wall, as it may properly be called, is always very firmly built, and sometimes is of very strong construction. It is on an average six feet high, and is about two feet and a half wide a<- the bottom, and a foot or less at the top. It is made almost entirely of small twigs and branches, placed upright, and nearly parallel with each other, but so firmly interlaced that they form an admirable defence against the assagai, while near the bottom the wall is so strong as to stop an ordinary bullet. A few inches from the top the wall is strengthened by a double band of twigs, one band being outside, and the other in the interior. Protection A^j^ninst Fire. The doorways of a Buchuana hut arc rather curiously constructed. n aperture is made in the wall, larger above than below, so as to suit he shape of a human being, whose shoulders are wider than his feet. Th's formation serves two purposes. In the first place it lessens the size of the aperture, and so diminishes the amount of the c ;a!j jht, and, in the next place, it forms a better defence against an adversary than if it were of larger size, and reaching to the ground. The fireplace is situated outside the hut, though within the fence, the Bechuanas having a very wholesome dread of fire, and being naturally anxious that their elaborately built houses should not be burnt down. Outside the house, but within the enclosure, is the corn-house. This is a smallrr hut, constructed in much the same manner as the dwelling-house, and containing the supply of corn. This is kept in jars, one of which is of })rodigiouy size, and would quite throw into the shade the celebrated oil jars in which the " Forty Thieves " hid themselves. There is also a separate house in which the servants sleep. This corn jar is made of twigs plaited and woven into form, and strengthened by sticks thrust into the ground, so that it is irremovable, even if its ht-c diniensions did not answer that purpose. The jar is plastered both on the outside and the interior with clay, so that it forms an admirable {protection for the corn. These jars are sometimes six feet in height and tnree in width, and their shape almost exactly resembles that of the oil jars of luirope. The best specimens are raised six or seven inches from the ground, the stakes which form their scaffolding answer- 72 wondi:rs of hie tropics. I *l ing the purpose of legs. Every house has one such jar; and in the abode of wealthy persons there is generally one large jar and a number of smaller ones, all packed. Curious Burial CuMtonis. The burial o{ the dead is conducted after a rather curious manner The funeral ceremonies actually begin before the sick person is dead and must have the effect of hastening dissolution. As soon as the rela tions of the sick man see that his end is near, they throw over him a mat, or sometimes a skin, and draw it together until the enclosed indi- vidual is forced into a sitting, or lather a crouching posture, with the arms bent, the head bowed, and the knees brought into contact with the chin. In this uncomfortable position the last spark of life soon expires, and the actual funeral begins. The relatives dig a grave, generally within the cattle fence, not shaped as is the case in our own country, but a mere round hole, about three feet in diameter. The interior of this strangely shaped grave is then rubbed with a bulbous root. An opening is then made in the fence surrounding tliu house, and the body is carried through it, still enveloped in the mat, and with a skin thrown over the head. It is then lowered b'ito the grave, and great pains are taken to place it exactly facing the n(Mth, an operation which consumes much time, but which is achieved at la.st with I. ! arable accuracy. When they have settled this point to their satisfaction, they bring fragments of an anthill, which is the best and finest clay that can be pro- duced, and lay it carefully about the feet of the corp.se, over which it is pressed by two men w!i ) stand in the grave for that purpose. More and more clay is handed dow n in wtjoden bowls, and stamped firmly down, the operators raising the mat in proportion as the earth rises. They take particular care that not even the smallest pebble shall mix with the earth that surrounds the body, and, as the clay is quite free from stones, it is the fittest material for their purjjose. How Chi«'fs arei Buriod. As soon as the earth reaches the mouth, a branch of acacia is placed in the grave, and .some roots of grass laid on the head, so that part of the grass projects above the level of the ground. The excavated soil is then scooped up so as to make a small mound, over which is poured several bowlfuls of water, the spectators meanwhile shouting out, " Pula! Pula!" as they do when aj)plauding a speaker in parliament. The weapons and implements of the deceased are then brought to the grave, and presented to him, but they are not left there, as is the 'case with some tribes. The M ; and in the id a number lous manner •son is dead 1 as the rela ' over him a nclosed indi- ;ure, with the ntact with the soon expires, e, not shaped 2, about three jrave is then in the fcnc; itill enveloped then lowered tly facing the is achieved at [n, they bring t can be pro- r which it is :, More and firmly down. s. Thcv taki; ,vith the earth 1 stones, it is icui is placed ^at part of the ihI soil is then loured severai Pula! Piria! " weapons and |md presented tribes. Tlic H I M O c S5 M > a > a; o (73) # 74 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ceremony ends by the whole party leaving the ground, amid the lamenta- tions of the women, who keep up a continual wailing cry. These are the full ceremonials that take place at the death of a chief-— at all events, a man of some importance, but they vary much according .o the rank of the individual. Sometimes a rain-maker has forbidden all sepulchral rites whatever, as interfering with the production of rain, aiKi during the time of this interdict every corpse is dragged into the bush to be consumed by the hyienas. Even the very touch of a dead body is for- bidden, and, under this strange tyranny, a son has been seen to fling a leathern rope round the leg of his dead mother, drag her body into the bush, and there leave it, throwing down the rope and abandoning it, because it had been defiled by the contact of a dead body, and he might happen to touch the part that had touched the corpse. Almost every African tribe has burial customs peculiar to itself Some of the most remarkable of these arc met with among the Latookas : Funeral ceremonies clitTcr among the Latookas according to the mod<: of death. If a ni;in is killed in battle, the body is not touched, but is allowed to remain on the spot where it fell, to be eaten by the hy.xnas and the vultures. But should a Latooka, whether man, woman or chiltl, die a natural death, the body is disposed of in a rather singular manner. Immediately after death, a shallow grave is dug in the enclosure that sur- rouiuls each house, and within a few feet of the door. It is allowed to re- main here for several weeks, when decomposition is usually completed It is then dug up, the boi>es are cleaned and washed, and are then placed in an earthenware jar, and carried about a quarter of a mile outside the village. Horrible Treutmciit of lluinaii Koniaius. No particular sanctity attaches itself either to the bones or the spot on which they arc deposited. The earthen jars are broken in course of time and the bones scattered about, but no t)ne takes any notice of them, in consequence of this custom the neighborhood of a large town presertsa most singular and rather dismal aspect, the ground being covered with bones, skulls, and earthenware jars in various states of preservation ; and, indeed, the traveler always knows wht'n he is approaching a Latook. town by coming across a (juantity of neglected human remains. The Latookas have not the least idea why they treat their dead in tin;, singular manner, nor why they make so .strange a distinction bi.tweenllic bodies of warriors who have died the death of the brave and those wlic have simply died from disease, accident, or decay, Perha[)s there is no other country wheie the body o( the dead warrior is left to the beastj LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. w the lamenta- li of a chief— ich according 1 forbidden all n of rain, and to the bush to .d body is for- cen to fling a rinto the bush, T it, because it ght happen to o itself. Some Latookas : itr to the motk touched, but IS by the hyrtnas ^■oman or child, HfTular manner, losurethatsur- s allowed to ro- ily completed, are then placed ,, lile outside the '■^. or the spot on course of time \ :c of them. In I town presents a covered with tservation ; and, thing a Latook | Imains. Iieir dead in thib iion baweentlic and those who | laps there is no Ift to the bcasti and birds, while those who die natural deaths are so elaborately buried, exhumed,' and placed in the public cemetery. Why they lo so they do not seem either to know or to care, and, as far as has been ascertained, this is one of the many customs which lias survived long after those who practise it have forgotten its signification. During the three or four weeks that elapse between the interment and e.xhumation of the body funeral dances are performed. Great numbers of both sexes take part in these dances, for which they decorate them- i r'.:^} CO.M.MOKO KUNMNG TO THE FIGHT. selves in a very singular manner. Their hair helmets are supplemented by great plumes of ostrich feathers, each man wearing as many as jhe can manage to fasten on his head, and skins of the leopard or monkey are hung from their shoulders. The chief adornment, how- jever, is a large iron bell, which is fastened to the small of the back, land which is sounded by wriggling the body after a very ludicrous [fashion. A large crowd got up in this style created an indescribable hubbub IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ty.^ ^ 1.0 I.I ■^1^ 12.5 IIIIIM ^ m 1.8 1 1.25 U 1.6 ■• 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) S73-4S03 # Q V •i>' ^ ^ A \ rv 6^ '^ ! i 76 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. heightened by the blowing of horns and the beating of seven nogaras of various notes. Every dancer wore an antelope's horn suspended round the neck, which he blew occasionally in the height of his excitement. These in-jtruments produced a "sound partaking of the braying of a don key and the screech of an owl. Crowds of men rushed round and round brandishing their arms and iron-headed maces, and keeping tolerably in iine five or six deep, following the leader, who headed them, dancing backward. The women kept outside the line, dancing a slow, stupid step, while a long string of young girls and small children, their heads and necks rub- bed with red ochre and grease, and prettily ornamented with strings of beads round their loins, keep a very good line, beating time with their feet, and jingling the numerous iron rings which adorned their ankles to keep time to the drums. One woman attended upon the men, running through the crowd with a gourdful of wood-ashes, handfuls of which she showered over their heads, powderi^jg them like millers : the object of the operation no one could understand. The premih-e daiiscuse was immensely fat ; she had passed the bloom of youth, but despite her unwieldy state, she kept up the pace to the last, quite unconscious o\ her general appearance, and ab- sorbed with the excitement of the dance. These strange dances form a part of every funeral, and so, when sev- eral persons have died successively, the funeral dances go on for several months together. The chief Commoro was »-emarkable for his agility in the funeral dances, and took his part in every such ceremony, no matter whether it were tor a wealthy or a poor man, every one who dies being equally entitled to the funeral dance without any distinction of rank or wealth. The bells which are so often mentioned in those tribes inhabiting Central Africa are mostly made on one principle, though not on precisely the same pattern. These simple bells evidently derive their origin from the shells of certain nuts, or other hard fruits, which, when suspended and a wooden clapper hung within them, can produce a sound of some resonance. The next advance is evidently the carving the bell out of some harc^ wood, so as to increase its size and add to the power of its sound. Next the superior resonance of iron became apparent, and little bells were made, shaped exactly like the before-mentioned nuts. This point once obtained, the variety in the shape of the bells is evidently a mere matter of caprice on the part of the maker. .^> CHAPTER IV. A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. (,i«nngstone's Great Interest in the Makololo Tribe — The Fate of Ancient Nations- Extraordinary Changes in Southern Africa— Obscure Origin of the Hottentots- Displaced by the More Powerful Kaffirs— The Great Chief of the Makololo- Severe Punishment for Cowards— A Royal Young Snob— Fear of the Ferocioua Lion— Headlong Charge of tlie Buffalo upon Hunters— Livingstone's Story of His Wagon— A Race in Eating— Frightful Battle with Hippopotami— Frail Bont Surrounded by Jgly Brutes— Superior Makololo Women — Mode of Building Houses— Strong Walls and Thatched Roofs— Strange Ideas of a Boatman- Offenders Flung to Crocodiles — Dividing the Spoils of Hunting— Sports of African Children— A Queen's Opinion of White People— Better Looking than she Imagined— A Grotesque and Exciting Dance. (f^IVINGSTONE also took great interest in another tribe, the famous "iVr Makololo, some account of which will prove instructive and entertaining. In the whole of Africa south of the equator, we find the, great events of the civilized world repeated on a smaller scale. Civilized history- speaks of the origin and rise of nations, and the decadence and fall of empires. During a course of many centuries, d)nasties have arisen and held their sway for generations, fading away by degrees before the infliux of mightier races. The kingdoms of Egypt, Assyria, Babylon, Greece, Rome, Persia, and the like, have lasted from generation after generation, and some of them still exist, though with diminished powers. The Pharaohs have passed from the face of the earth, and their metropolis is a desert; but Athens and Rome still retain some traces of their vanished glories. In Southern Africa, however, the changes that take place, though precisely similar in principle, are on a much smaller scale, both of mag- nitude and duration, and a traveller who passes a few years in the country may see four or five changes of dynasty in that brief period VVithin the space of an ordinary life-time, for example, the fiery genius of Tchaka gathered a number of scattered tribes into a nation, and created a dynasty, which, when deprived of its leading spirit, fell into decline, and has yearly tended to return to the original elements of which it was composed. Then the Hottentots have come from some unknown country, and (77) t»! 78 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. dispossessed the aborigines of the Cape so completely that no one knows what those aborigines were. In the case of islands, such as the Poly- nesian group, or even the vast island of Australia, we know what the aborigines must have been ; but we have no such knowledge with regard to Southern Africa, and in consequence the extent of our knowledge is, that the aborigines, whoever they might have been, were certainly not Hottentots. Then the Kaffirs swept down and ejected the Hottentots, and the Dutch and other white colonists ejected the Kaffirs. So it has been with the tribe of the Makololo, which, though thinly scattered, and by no means condensed, has contrived to possess a large portion of Southern Africa. Deriving their primary origin from a branch of the great Bechuana tribe, and therefore retaining many of the customs of that tribe together with its skill in manufactures, they were able to extend themselves far from their original home, and by degrees contrived to gain the dominion over the greater part of the surrounding country. Yet in 1861, when Dr. Livingstone passed through the country of the Makololo, he saw symptoms of its decadence. Cowards Put To Death. They had been organized by a great and wise chief named Sebituane, who rarried out to the fullest extent the old Roman principle of mercy to the submissive, and war to the proud. Sebituane owed nuch of his success to his practice of leading his troops to battle in person. When he came withii sight of the enemy, he significantly felt the edge of his battle-axe and said, " Aha ! it is sharp, and whoever turns his back on the enemy will feel its edge." Being remarkably fleet of foot, none of his soldiers could escape from him, and they found that it was far safer to fling themselves on the enemy with the chance of repelling him, than run away with the certainty of being cut down by the chief's battle-axe. Sometimes a cowardly soldier skulked, or hid himself Sebituane, however, was not to be deceived, and, after allowing him to return home, he would send for the delinquent, and, after mockingly assuming thaf death at home was preferable to death on the field of battle, would order him to instant execution. He incorporated the conquered tribes with his own Makololo, sayin^; that, when they submitted to his rule, they were all children of the chief, and therefore equal ; and he proved his words by admitting them to par- ticipate in the highest honors, and causing them to intermarry with his own tribe. Under him was an organized system of head chiefs, and petty chiefs and elders, through whom Sebituane knew all the affairs of ili A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. ro his kingdom, and guided it well and wisely. But, when he died, the band that held together this nation was loosened, and bid fair to give way altogether. His son and successor, Sekeletu, was incapable of following the example of his father. He allowed the prejudices of race to be again developed, and fostered them himself by studiously excluding all women except the Makololo from his harem, and appointing none but Makololo men to office. A Worthless Ruler. Consequently, he became exceedingly unpopular among those very tribes whom his father had succeeded in conciliating, and, as a natural result, his chiefs and elders being all Makololo men, they could not enjoy the confidence of the incorporated tribes, and thus the harmonious system of Sebituane was broken up. Without confidence in their rulers, a people cannot retain their position as a great nation ; and Sekeletu, in forfeiting that confidence, sapped with his own hands the foundation of his throne. Discontent began to show itself, and his people drew unfavorable contrasts between his rule and that of his father, some even doubting whether so weak and purposeless a man could really be the son of their lamented chief, the " Great Lion," as they called him. " In his days," said they, " we had great chiefs, and little chiefs, and elders, to carry on the government, and the great chief, Sebituane, knew them all, and the whole country was wisely ruled. But now Sekeletu knows noth- ing, and the Makololo power is fast passing away." Then Sekeletu fell ill of a horrible and disfiguring disease, shut him- self up in his house, and would not show hipiself ; allowing no one to come near him but one favorite, through whom his orders were transmitted to the people! But the nation got tired of being ruled by dep ty, and consequently a number of conspiracies were organized, which never could have been done under the all-pervading rule of Seb- ituane, and several of the greater chiefs boldly set their king at defiance. As long as Sekeletu lived, the kingdom retained a nominal, though not a real existence, but withiji a year after his death, which occured in 1864, civil wars sprang up on every side ; the kingdom thus divided was weakened, and unable to resist the incursions of surrounding tribes, and thus, within the space of a very few years, the great Makololo empire fell to pieces. According to Dr. Livingstone, this event was much to be regretted, considering the character of its people. Mr. Baines, who knew both the father and the son, has the very meanest opinion of the latter, and the highest of the former. In his .: -il I 80 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. notes, which show a man of very keen discernment, he briefly character- izes them as follows : — " Sebituane.a polished, merciful man. Sekeletu, his successor, a fast young snob, with no judgment. Killed off his father's councillors, and did as he liked. Helped the missionaries to die rather WiLD CHARGE OF A BUFFALO UPON HUNTERS. ihanto live, even if he did not intentionally poison them — then plundered their provision stores." The true Makololo are a fine race of men, and are lighter in color than the surrounding tribes, being of a rich warm brown, rather than black, A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. 81 iefly character- 1. Sekeletu, his off his father's :s to die rather then plundered ;r in color than lier than black, and they are rather peculiar in their intonation, pronouncing each sylla- ble slowly and deliberately. The general character of this people seems to be a high one, and in many respects will bear comparison with the Ovambo. Brave they have proved themselves by their many victories, though it is rather remarkable that they do not display the same courage when opposed to the lion at when engaged in warfare against their fellow-men. Yet they are not without courage and presence of mind in the hunting-field, though the dread king of beasts seems to exercis# such an influence over them that they fear to resist his inroads. The buffalo is really quite as much to be dreaded as the lion, and yet the Makololo are comparatively indifferent when pursuing it. The animal has an unpleasant habit of doubling back on its trail, crouching in the bush, allowing the hunters to pass its hiding-place, and then to charge suddenly at them with such a force and fury that it scatters the hunters before its headlong rush like autumn leaves before the wind. Hospitality is one of their chief virtues, and it is exercised with a modesty which is rather remarkable. " The people of every village," writes Livingstone, " treated us most liberally, presenting, besides oxen, butter, milk, and meal, more than we could stow away in our canoes. The cows in this valley are now yielding, as they frequently do, more milk than the people can use, and both men and women present butter in such quantities, that I shall be able to refresh my men as we go along. Anointing the skin prevents the excessive evaporation of the fluids of the body, and acts as clothing in both sun and shade. Famous Story of the Wagon. " They always made their piesents graceful'; . When an ox was given, the owner would say, ' Here is a little bit of bread for you.' This was pleasing, ^^r I had been accustomed to the Bechuanas presenting a miserable goat, with the pompous exclamation, ' Behold an ox ! * The women persisted in giving me copious supplies of shrill praises, or MuUi- looing,' but although I frequently told them to modify their 'Great Lords,' and ' Great Lions,' to more humble expressions, they so evidently intended to do me honor, that I could not help being pleased with the poor creatures' wishes for our success." One remarkable instance of the honesty of this tribe is afforded by Dr. Livingstone. In 1853, he had left at Lrnyanti, a place on the Zam- besi River, a wagon containing papers and stores. He had been away from Linyanti, to which place he found that letters and packages had Accordingly, in i860, he determined, on revisiting been sent for him. 82 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. vw '■i 'li the spot, and, when he arrived there, found that everything in the wagon was exactly in the same state as when he left it in charge of the king seven ycar.s before. The head men of the place were veiy glad to see him back again, and only lamented that he had not arrived in the previous year, which happened to be one of special plenty. This hotiesty is the more remarkable, because they had good reason to fear the attacks of the Matabele, who, if they had heard that a wagon with property in it was kept in the place, would have attacked Linyanti at once, in spite of its strong poUtion amid rivers and marshes. How ever, the Makololo men agreed that in that case they were to fight in defence of the wagon, and that the first man who wounded a Matabele in defence of the wagon was to receive cattle as a reward. It is prob- able, however, that the great personal influence which Dr. Livingstone exercised over the king and his tribe had much to do with the behavior of these Makololo, and that a man of less capacity and experience would have been robbed of everything that could be stolen. How Strangers are Received. When natives travel, especially if they should be headed by a chief, various ceremonies take place, the women being intrusted wijh the task of welcoming the visitors. This they do by means of a shrill, prolonged, undulating cry, produced by a rapid agitation of the tongue, and expressivel) called " luUilooing." The men follow their example, and it is etiquette for the chief to receive all these salutations with perfect indifference. As soon as the new comers are seated, a conversation takes pLice, in which the two parties exchange news, and then the head man rises and brings out a quantity of beer in large pots. Calabash goblets are handed round, and every one makes it a point of honor to drink as fast as he can, the fragile goblets being often broken in this convivial rivalry. Besides the beer, jars of clotted milk are produced in plenty, and each of the jars is given to the principal men, who are at liberty to divide it as they choose. Although originally sprung from the liechuanas, the Makololo disdain the use of spoons, preferring to scoop up the milk ii; their hands, and, if a spoon be given to them, they merely ladle out .-ome milk from the jar, put it into their hands, and so eat it. A chief is expected to give several feasts of meat to his followers. He chooses an ox, and hands it over to some favored individual, who proceeds to kill it by piercing its heart with a slender spear. The wound is carefully closed, so that the animal bleeds internally, the whole of the blood, as well as the viscera, forming the perquisite of the butcher A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. 83 in the wagon e of the king :iy glad to see arrived in the d good reason d that a wagon icked Linyanti arshes. How were to fight in led a Matabcle rd. It is prob- Dr. Livingstone th the behavior tperience would ided by a chief, sd with the task shrill, prolonged, le tongue, and example, and it )ns with perfect a conversation then the head pots. Calabash )int of honor to broken in this plenty, and each jerty to divide it Ikchuanas, the up the milk in lie rely ladle out at it. A chief is He chooses an roceeds to kill it und is carefully of the blood, as •f'^ Scarcely is the ox dead than it is cut up, the best parts, namely, the hump and ribs, belonging to the chief, who also apportions the different parts of the slain animal amofig his guests, just as Joseph did with his brethren, each of the honored guests subdividing his own portion among his immediate followers. The process of cooking is simple enough, the meat being merely cut into strips and thrown on the fire, often in such quantities that it is neatly extinguished. Before it is half cooked, it is taken from the embers, and eaten while so hot that none but a practised meat-eater could endure it, the chief object being to introduce as much meat as possible into the stomach in a given time. It is not manners to eat after a man's companions have finished their meal, and so each guest eats as much and as fast as he can, and acts as if he had studied in the school of Sir Dugal Dalgetty. Neither is it manners for any one to take a solitary meal, and, knowing this custom, Dr. Livingstone always contrived to have a second cup of tea or coffee by his side whenever he took his meals, so that the chief, or one of the principal men, might join in the repast. Among the Makololo, rank has its drawbacks as well as its privileges, ;vand among the former may be reckoned one of the customs which regu- 'late meals. A chief may not dine alone, and it is also necessary that at ^each meal the whole of the provisions should be consumed. If Sekeletu had an ox killed, every particle of it was consumed at a single meal, and in consequence he often suffered severely from hunger before another could be prepared for him and his followers. So completely is this cus- tom ingrained in the nature of the Makololo, that, when Dr. Livingstone visited Sekeletu, the latter was quite scandalized that a portion of the meal was put aside. However, he soon .saw the advantage of the plan, and after awhile followed it himself, in spite of the remonstrances of the old men ; and, while the missionary was with him, they played into each other's hands by each reserving a portion for the other at every meal. Great Skill in Usingr Canoes. As the Makololo live much on the banks of the river Zambesi, they naturally use the canoe, and are skilful in its management. These canoes are flat-bottorned, in order to enable them to pass over the numerous shallows of the Zambesi, and are sometimes forty feet in length, carrying from six to ten paddlers, besides other freight. The paddles are about eight feet in length, and, when the canoe gets into shallow water, the pad- dles are used as punt-poles. The paddlers stand while at work, and keep time as if they were engaged in a University boat race, so that they pro- pel the vessel with considerable speed. if ■I' . 1 r 1 i » i' i 1 i. ; i 1 r 1 ; i r f X % i ki^ < A CF.LEBRATED AFRICAN TKinE. 8ft Being flat- bottomed, the boats 'leed very skilful management, especx- ; ally in so rapid and variable a river as the Zambesi, where sluggish" depths, rock-beset shallows, and swift rapids, follow each other repeat- edly. If the canoe should happen to come broadside to the current, it would inevitably be upset, and as the Makololo are not ail swimmers, several of the crew would probably be drowned. As soon, therefore, as such a danger seems to be pending, those who can swim jump into the ivater and guide the canoe through the sunken rocks and dangerous ed- dies. Skill in the management of the canoe is especially needed in the chase of the hippopotamus, which they contrive to hunt in their own ^element, and which they seldom fail in securing, in spite of the enormou? size, the furious anger, and the formidable jaws of this remarkable animal. Terrible Encounter with the Kiver- Horse. The dangers of travel are seen from the following account given by a traveller while making a trip up the Nile: •; It was on this trip that I had a narrow escape from falling into the |iws of " the river-horse," — hippopotamus, one of the largest of mammals. iTiis animal can never have been very common on the lower part of the iiyer, for you do not see his easily recognized figure among the hiero- g1yphi:s with which the temples are filled, between the Delta and the mst cataract. Nor does Roman history often mention them in the games or triumphs of the emperore, which is singular, when tigers, lions and elephants figure so often. But farther up the river you meet him still, isually swimming very low in the water, with simply his nose, eyes and ifars above its surface, and followed by his mate, — for they travel usually ^^ couples. But on the day to which I refer, this number was increased ib three — and huge specimens they were — sunning themselves on the left bank of the river, and on the back of the female rested a young one, Uglier, if possible, th.in its fon;l parents. We were six of us, only one a native, rowing along the shore in a skiff; and one of my companions, a Frenchman, with the careless thoughdess- "less of his race, raised his rifle and let drive at the youngster. There 'as a tremendous splashing and racket, and the water for yards was lirred up by the four mighty bodies diving into it simultaneously. A ry of warning came from our guide, who began jabbering away in hift iwn lingo at a great rate. What's the beggar raising all this row about?" asked the Frenchman;! *'Pull for your life!" shouted I. "You'll have the whole party round I in a minute." The boat was a poor one for speed, and we were still a long way from m WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ^11 f;. ;: '■'} i I ^1 :' m J..; ri the nearest point of lant! when the snouts of the hippopotomi camet the surface within pistol-shot of the stern. Tn a moment they were around us threateninsi to crush the thwarts of our craft and make two mouthfuls '^f the whole party. We dropped our oa''s- -for flicfht was out of the question — and seized J ir guns. Placing my barrel almost against the eye of the largest, ' DRIVINO CRr>CODn.ES INTO THE WATER. emptied both barrels into his head, and he sank without a gurgle into tlie muddy water. Meanwhile the other end of the boat had been less f)itunatc. The remaining male had fastened his massive jaws in the gunwale and was crunching it like paper, while the Frenchman, the cause of all the danger, was ineffectually belaboring his head with an oar, his empty gun being, of course, useless. Luckily for us, one of the party had a loaded rifle and som.* 'iresence I A CELEBRATED AFRICAN 1 RIBE. 87 som.* '»resence of mind left, and to these hippopotamus number two reluctantly yielded, and went to join his friend at the bottom of the muddy river. It is really cur-'ous how easily and quickly so huge an animal will die under modern weapons, when you remember what difficulty the ancients expe- rienced in killing large game, and how an entire army was needed to cope with an elephant or hippopotamus. But to return to our still rather unpleasant predicament: before \he female could reach us, we were all reloaded and ready for her She seemed to realize this, for, without waiting for our eordial reception, she turned tail and made for the other shore, leaving a wake behind her like a harbor steamboat. Reaching a long tongue of land near the far- ther bank, she waded through the shallows itid across it, disturbing the crocodiles sunning thereon, and driving then, into the water beyond, into which she followed them and was lost to our sight. And not one of the party seemed to care ! Sini^ular Habits of the Makololo. The dress of the men differs but little from that which is in use in other parts of Africa south of the equator, and consists chiefly of a skin twisted round the loins, and a mantle of the same material thrown ovex the shoulders, the latter being only worn in cold weather. The Makololo are a cleanly race, particularly when they happen to be in the neighbor- hood of a river or lake, in which they bathe several times daily. The men, however, are better in this respect than the women, who seem rather to be afraid of cold water, preferring to rub their bodies with melted butter, which has the effect of making their skins glossy, and keeping off parasites, but also imparting a peculiarly unpleasant odor to themselves and their clothing. As to the women, they are clothed in a far better manner than the men, and are exceedingly fond of ornaments, wearing a skin kilt or kaross, and adorning themselves with as many ornaments as they can afford. The traveller who has already been quoted mentions that a sister of the great chief Sebituane wore enough ornaments to be a load for an ordi^ nary man. On each leg she had eighteen rings of solid brass, as thick as a man's finger, and three of copper under each knee; nineteen similar rings on her right arm, and eight of brass and copper on her left. She had also a large ivory ring above each elbow, a broad band of beads round her waist, and another round her neck, being altogether nearly one hundred large and heavy rings. The weight of the rings on her legs was so great, that she was obliged to wrap soft rags round the lower rings, as they had begun to chafe her ankles. Under this weight of ■'"**<♦:. 08 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. '8! •? J^Slil 9P ^'^^-IW" metal she could walk but awkwardly, but fashion proved itself superiot to pain with this Makololo woman, as among her American sisters. Both in color and general manners, the Makololo women are superior to most of the tribes. This superiority is partly due to the light warm brown of their complexion, and partly to their mode of life. Unlike the women of ordinary African tribes, those of the Makololo lead a compara- bVely easy life, having their harder labors shared by their husband><, who aid in digging the ground, and in other rough work. Even the domcsti; work is done more by servants than by the mistresses of the household so that the Makololo women are not liable to that rapid deterioi alien which is so evident among other tribes. In fact they have so much time to them.selves, and so little to occupy them, that they are apt to fall into rather dissipated habits, and spend much of their time in smoking hemp and drinking beer, the former habit being a most insidious one, and apt to cause a peculiar eri'ptive disease. Sekeletu was a votary of the hemp-pipe, and, by his over-indulgence in this luxury, he induced the disease of which he afterward died. Women Who Build Houses. The only hard work that falls to the lot of the Makololo women is that of house-building, which is left entirely to them and their servants. The mode of making a house is rather remarkable. The first business is to buiid a cylindrical tower oi stakes and reeds, plastered with mud, and some nine or ten feet in height, the walls and floor being smoothly plastered, so as to prevent them from harboring insects. A large conical roof is then put together on the ground, and completely thatched with reeds. It is then lifted by many hands, and lodged on top of the circular tower. As the roof projects far beyond the central tower, it is supported by stake , and, as a general rule, the spaces between these stakes are filled up with a wall or fence of reeds plastered with mud. This roof is not permanently fixed either to the supporting stakes or the central tower, and can be removed at pleasure. When a visitor arrives among the Makololo, he is often lodged by the simple process of lifting a finished !oof off an unfinished house, and putting it on the ground. Although it is then so low that a man can scarcely sit, much h.'s- stand upright, it answers very well for Southern Africa, where the whole of active life is spent, as a rule, in the open air, and where houses are only used as sleeping-boxes. The doorway that gives admission into the cir- cular v;hamber is always small. In a house that was assigned to Dr. Livingstone, it was only nineteen inches in total height, twenty-two in width at the floor, and twelve at the itself superioi sisters. are superior le li^ht warm . Unlike the id a compara- lUsbancN, who 1 the domcstii le household I deterioi alien so much time are apt to fall e in smoking dious one, and I votary of the e induced the olo women is their servants. first business red with mud, ing smoothly large conical thatched with of the circular t is supported se stakes are This roof is central tower, es among tiie tins: a finished sit, much l<:s:' ere the whole ouses are only into the cir- only nineteen twelve at the A CELEBRATED AFRICAN" TRIBE. 8P ' top. A native Makololo, with no particular encumbrance in the way of clothes, makes his way through the doorway easily enough ; but an American with all the impediments of dress about him finds himself sadly V, hampered in attempting to gain the penetration of a Makololo house. Except through this door, the tower has neither light not ventilation Some of the best houses have two, and even three, of these towers, built concentrically within each other, and each having its entrance about as large as the door of an ordinary dog-kennel. Of course the atmospheic is very close at night, but the people care nothing about that. ^>>?^s s HOUSE-BUILDING IN AFRICA. Our illustration is from a sketch furnished by Mr. Baines. It repre- ints a nearly completed Makololo house on the banks of the Zambesi iver, just above the great Victoria Falls. The women have placed the )of on the building, and are engaged in the final process of fixing the latch. In the centre is seen the cylindrical tower which forms the inner lamber, together with a portion of the absurdly small door by which it entered. Round it is the inner wall, which is also furnished with its w 1% ■ ' i|il \^ mm 90 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ' doorway. These are made of stakes and withes, upon which is worked a quantity of clay, well patted on by hand, so as to form a thick and strong wall. Even the wall which surrounds the building and the whole of the floor are made of the same material. ^ Walls Within WaUs. It will be seen that there are four concentric wails in this building. First comes the outer wall, which encircles the whole premises. Next is i low wall, which is built up against the posts that support the ends oj the rafters, and which is partly supported by them. Within this is a third wall, which encloses what may be called the ordinary living room of the house ; and within all is the inner chamber, or tower, which is in fact only another circular wall of much less diameter and much greater height. It will be seen that the walls of the house increase regularly in height, and decrease regularly in diameter, so as to correspond with the conical roof. On the left of the illustration is part of a millet-field, beyond which are some completed houses. Among them are some of the fan-palms with recurved leaves. That on the left is a young tree, and retains all its leaves, while that on the right is an old one, and has shed the leaves to- ward the base of the stem, the foliage and the thickened portion of the trunk having worked their way gradually upward. More palms are growing on the Zambesi River, and in the background are seen the vast spray clouds arising from the Falls The comparatively easy life led 1 ■ . i Makololo women makes polyg- amy less of a hardship to them ti ' iS .he case among neighboring tribes, and, in fact, even if the men were willing to abandon the system, the women would not consent to do so. With them marriage, though it never rises to the rank which it holds in civilized countries, is not a mere matter of barter. It is true that the husband is expected to pay a cer- tain sum to the parents of his bride, as a recompense for her services and as purchase money to retain in his own family the children that she may have, and which would by law belong to her father. Then, again, when a wife dies her husband is obliged to send an ox to her family, in order to recompense them for their loss, she being still reckoned as form- ing part of her parent's family, and her individuaUty not being totally Dicrged into that of her husband. African Mormons. Plurality of wives is in vogue among the Makololo, and, indeed, an ab- solute necessity under the present condition of the race, and the women ^ would be quite as unwilling as the men to have a system of monogamy A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. o: which is worked *orm a thick and g and the whole * in this building, emises. Next is 3ort the ends oi bin this is a third dng room of the which is in fact id much greater ease regularly in respond with the aeyond which are e fan-palms with nd retains all its ed the leaves to- ld portion of the More palms are ire seen the vast len makes polyg- ong neighboring idon the system, irriage, though it ies, is not a mere d to pay a cer for her services children that she er. Then, again, to her family, in eckoned as form- lot being totally .'Hi # imposed upon them. No man is respected by his neighbors who does not possess several wives, and, indeed, without them he could not be wealthy, each wife tilling a certain quantity of ground, and the produce belonging to a common stock. Of course, there are cases where polyg- amy fs certainly a hardship, as, for example, when old men choose to marry very young wives. But, on the whole, and under existing condi- tions, polygamy is the only possible system. Another reason for the plurality of wives, as given by themselves, is that a man with one wife would not be able to exercise that hospitality which is one of the special duties of the tribe. Strangers are taken to the huts and there entertained as honored guests, and as the women are the principal providers of food, chief cultivators of the soil, and sole guardians of the corn stores, their co-operation is absolutely necessary for anyone who desires to carry out the hospitable institutions of his tribe. It has been mentioned that the men often take their share in the hard work. This laudable custom, however, prevailed most among the true Makololo men, the incorporated tribes preferring to follow the usual African custom, and to make the women work while they sit down and smoke their pipes. The men have become adepts at carving wood, making wooden pots with lids, and bowls and jars of all sizes. Moreover, of late years, the Makololo have learned to think that sitting on a stool is more comforta- ble than squatting on the bare ground, and have, in consequence, begun to carve the legs of their stools into various patterns. The Boatman's Strange Ideas. Like the people from whom they are descended, the Makololo are a law-loving race and manage their government by means of councils or parliaments, resembling the pichos of the Bechuanas, and consisting of a number of individuals assembled in a circle round the chief, who occupies \he middle. On one occasion, when there was a large halo round the sun. Dr. Livmgstone pointed it out to his chief boatman. The man im- mediately replied that it was a parliament of the Barimo, that is, the gods, or departed spirits, who were assembled round their chief, that is the sun. Vox major crimes a picho is generally held, and the accused, if found guilty, is condemned to death. The usual mode of execution is for twc men to grasp the condemned by his wrists, lead him a mile from the town, and then to spear him. Resistance is not offered, neither is the criminal allowed to speak. So quiet is the whole proceeding that, on one very remarkable occasion, a rival chief was carried off within a few yards of Dr. Livingstone without his being aware of the fact. 9S^ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Shortly after Sebituane's death, while his son Sekelctu was yet a young man of eighteen, and but newly raised to the throne, a rival named Mpepe, who had been appointed by Scbituane chief of a division of tJie tribe, aspired to the throne. He strengthened his pretensions by super- stition, having held for some years a host of incantations, at which a num- ber of native wizards assembled, and performed a number of enchantments so potent that even the strong-minded Sebituane was afraid of him. After the death of that great chief, Mpepe organized a conspiracy whereby he should be able to murder Sekeletu and to take his throne. The plot, however, was discovered, and on the night of its failure, his executioners came quietly to Mpepe's fire, took his wrists, led him out, and speared him. Flungr to the Crocodiles, * Sometimes the offender is taken into the river in a boat, strangled, and flung into the water, where the crocodiles are waiting to receive him. Disobedience to the chief's command is thought to be quite sufficient cause for such a punishment. For lesser offences fines are inflicted, a par- liament not being needed, but the case beiiij^ heard before the chief. Dr. Livingstone relates in a very graphic style the manner in which these cases arc conducted. "The complainant asks the man against whom he means to lodge his complaint to come with him to the chief This is uever refused. When both are in the kotla, the complainant stands up and states the whole case before the chief and people usually assembled there. He stands a few seconds after he has done this to recollect if he has forgotten anything. The witnesses to whom he has referred then rise up and tell all that they themselves have seen or heard, but not anything that they have heard from others. The defendant, after allowing some minutes to elapse, so that he may not interrupt any of the opposite party, slowly rises, folds his cloak about him, and in the most quiet and deliberate way he can assume, yawning, blowing his nose, etc., begins to explain the affair, denying the charge or admitting it, as the case may be. "Sometimes, when galled by his remarks, the complainant utters a sen- tence of dissent. The accused turns quietly to him and says, * Be silent, I sat while you were speaking. Can not you do the same ? Do you want to have it all to yourself?* And, as the audience acquiesce in this bantering, and enfbrce silence, he goes on until he has finished all he wishes to say in his defence. If he has any witnesses to the truth of the facts of his defence, they give their evidence. No oath is administered, but occasionally, when a statement is questioned, a man will say, 'By my father,' or *By A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. 93 5 yet a young rival named ivision of the )ns by super- which a num- enchantments afhim. After y whereby he e. The plot, ; executioners , and speared strangled, and 3 receive him. uite sufficient iflicted, a par- he chief. iner in which man against n to the chief 2 complainant )eople usually done this to whom he has ;een or heard, efendant, after pt any of the d in the most his nose, etc., ting it, as the utters a sen- Be silent, I sat I want to have )antering, and s to say in his f his defence, occasionally, ither,' or 'By the chief, it is so.' Their truthfulness among each other is quite remark- able, but their system of government is such that Americans are not in a position to realize it readily. A poor man will say in his defence against a rich one, ' I am astonished to hear a man so great as he make a false accusation,' as if the offence of falsehood were felt to be one against the society which the individual referred to had the greatest interest in up- holding." When a case is brought before the king by chiefs or other influential men, it is expected that the councillors who attend the royal presence shall give their opinions, and the permission to do so is inferred whenever the king remains silent' after having heard both parties. It is a point of etiquette that all the speakers stand except the king, who alone has the privilege of speaking while seated Dividing the Spoils. There is even a series of game-laws in the country, all ivory belonging of right to the king, and every tusk being brought to him. This right is, however, only nominal, as the king is expected to share the ivory I- among his people, and if he did not do so, he would not be able to enforce the law. In fact, the whole law practically resolves itself into this: that the king gets one tusk and the hunters get the other, while the flesh belongs to those who kill the a.iimal. And, as the flesh is to the people far more valuable than the ivory, the agreement is much fairer than appears at first sight. Practically it is a system of make-believes. The successful hunters kill two elephants, taking four tusks to the king, and make believe to offer them for his acceptance. He makes believe to take them as his right, and then makes believe to present them with two as ;> free gift from himself They acknowledge the royal bounty with abundant thanks and recapitulation of titles, such as Great Lion, etc., and so all parties are equally satisfied. Among the Makololo, as well as among Americans, the spirit of play is strong in children, and they engage in various games, chiefly consisting in childish imitation of the more serious pursuits of their parents. The following account of their play is given by Dr. Livingstone: "The chil- dren have merry times, especially in the cool of the evening. One of their games consists of a little girl being carried on the shoulders of two others. She sits with outstretched arms, as they walk about with hgr, and all the rest clap their hands, and stopping before each hut, sing pretty airs, some beating time on their little kilts of cow-skin, and others making a curious humming sound between the songs. Excepting this I 1 !--.|! vii ( ! I I 94 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. and the skipping-rope, the play of the girls consists in imitation of the serious work of their mothers, building little huts, making small pots, and cooking, pounding corn in miniature mortars, or hoeing tiny gar- dens. Sports of African Boys. "The boys play with spears of reeds pointed with wood, and small shields, or bows and arrows; or amuse themselves in making little cattle pens, or cattle in clay — they show great ingenuity in the imitation oi variously shaped horns. Some, too, are said to us«* slings, but, as soon as they can watch the goats or calves, they are sent to the field. We saw many boys riding on the calves they had in charge, but this is an innova- tion since the arrival of the English with their horses. Tselane, one of the ladies, on observing me one day noting observations on the wet and dry bulb thermometers, thought I too was engaged in play. On receiving no reply to her question, which was rather difficult to answer, as their native tongue has no scientific terms, she said with roguish glee, 'Poor thing! playing like a little child!'" Mr. Baines represents a domestic scene in a Makololo family. The house belongs to a chief named M'Bopo, who was very friendly to Mr. Baines and his companions, and was altogether a fine specimen of a savage gentleman. He was exceedingly hospitable to his guests, not only feeding them well, but producing great jars of pombe, or native beer, which they were obliged to consume either personally or by deputy. M'Bopo's chief wife sits beside him, and is distinguished by the two ornaments which she wears. On her forehead is a circular piece of hide, kneaded while wet so as to form a shallow cone. The inside of this cone is entirely covered with beads, mostly white, and scarlet in the centre. Upon her neck is another ornament, which is valued very highly. It is the base of a shell, a species of conus — the whole of which has been ground away except the base. This ornament is thought so valuable that when the great chief Shinte presented Dr. Livingstone with one, he took the precaution of coming alone, and carefully closing the tent door, so that none of his people should witness an act of such extravagant generosity. Wliite People Better Looking- than Supposed. This lady was good enough to express her opinion of the white trav- ellers. They were not so ugly, said she, as she had expected. All that hair on their heads and faces was certainly disagreeable, but their faces were pleasant enough, and their hands were well formed, but the great de- ! J itation of the T small pots, ing tiny gar- od, and small g little cattle e imitation oi 3, but, as soon leld. We saw ; is an innova- 'sclane, one of 3 on the wet in play. On lilt to answer, roguish glee, family. The "riendly to Mr. specimen of a s guests, not nbe, or native onally or by d by the two piece of hide, le of this cone in the centre, jhly. It is the been ground )le that when one, he took le tent door, extravagant le white trav- :d. All that [ut their faces the great de- (yo) rll I ; I i:m 96 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. feet in them was, that they had no toes. The worthy lady had never heard of boots, and evidently considered them as analogous to the hoof of cat- tie. It was found necessary to remove tl\e boots, and convince her that the white man really had toes. The Makololo have plenty of amusements after their own fashion, which is certainly not that of an American. Even those who have lived among them for some time, and have acknowledged that they are amono the most favorable specimens of African heathendom, have been utterly disgusted and wearied with the life which they had to lead. There is nc quiet and no repose day or night, and Dr. Livingstone, who might be ex- pected to be thoroughly hardened against annoyance by trifles, states broadly that the dancing, singing, roaring, jesting, story-telling, grumb- ling, and quarreling of the Makololo were a severer penance than any- thing which he had undergone in all his experience. He had to live with them, and was therefore brought in close contact with them. A Crazy Danco. The first three items of savage life, namely, dancing, singing and roar- ing, seem to be inseparably united, and the savages seem to be incapable of getting up a dance unless accompanied by roaring on the part of the performers, and singing on the part of the spectators — the latter sounds being not more melodious than the former. Dr. Livingstone gives a very graphic account of a Makololo dance. " As this was the first visit which Sekeletu had paid to this part of his dominions, 't was to many a season of great joy. The head men of each village presented oxen, milk and beer, more than the horde which accom- panied him could devour, though their abilities- in that way are something wonderful. "The people usually show their joy and work off their excitement in • dances and songs. The dance consists of men standing nearly nakcti in a circle, with clubs or small battle-axes in their hands, and each roaring at the loudest pitch of his voice, while'they simultaneously lift one leg, stamping twice with it, then lift the other and give one stamp with it; this is the only movement in common. The arms and head are thrown =ibout also in every direction, and all this time the roaring is kept up with the utmost possible vigor. The continued stamping makes a cloud of dust ascend, and they leave a deep ring in the ground where they have stood. " If the scene were witnessed in a lunatic asylum, it would be nothing out of the way, and quite appropriate as a means of letting off tlie exces- sive excitement of the brain. But here, gray-headed men joined in the A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. 97 performance with as much zest as others whose youth might be an excuse for making the perspiration start off their bodies with the exertion. Motebe asked what I thought of the Makololo dance. I replied, ' It is very hard work, and brings but small profit' ' It is,' he replied ; ' but it is very nice, ancf the Sekeletu will give us an ox for dancing for him.' He usually does slaughter an ox for the dancers when the work is over. " The women stand by, clapping their hands, and occasionally one ad- vances within the circle, composed of a hundred men, makes a few move- ments, and then retires. As I never tried it, and am unable to enter into the spirit of the thing, I cannot recommend the Makololo polka to the dancing world, but I have the authority of no less a person than Motebe, Sekeletu's father-in-law, for saying that it is very nice." Many of the Makololo are inveterate smokers, preferring hemp even to tobacco, because it is more intoxicating. They delight in smoking them- selves into a positive frenzy, which passes away in a rapid stream of un- meaning words, or short sentences, as, " The green grass growh," " The ;fat cattle thrive," " The fishes swim." No one in the group pays the f slightest attention to the vehement eloquence, or the sage or silly utter- I ances of the oracle, who stops abruptly, and, the instant common sense returns, looks foolish. They smoke the hemp through water, using a Icoodoo horn for their pipe, much in the way that the Damaras and other tribes use it. Over-indulgence in this luxury has a very prejudicial effect on the health, producing an eruption over the whole body that is quite unmis- takable. In consequence of this effect, the men prohibit their wives from using the hemp, but the result of the prohibition seems only to be that the women smoke secretly instead of openly, and are afterward discovered by the appearance of the skin. It is the more fascinating, because its use im- parts a spurious strength to the body, while it enervates the mind to such a degree that the user is incapable of perceiving the state in which he is gradually sinking, or of exercising sufficient self-control to abandon Dr even modify the destructive habit. Sekeletu was a complete victim of the hemp-pipe, and there is no doubt that the illness, something like the dreaded "craw-craw" of Western Africa, was aggravated, if not ^zausedL by over-indulgence in smoking hemp. I :i . 1 i li"'iii^ i ( 1-^' ;, CHAPTER V. PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. Kunarkable Successes of Livingstone — Forming a Station in the Wilderness— The Explorer Builds a House— Search for a Great Lake— A Desert with Prodigious Herds of Wild Animals— Starting on a Perilous Journey— Wagons Left in Charge of Natives— Travelling in Frail Canoes— Haunts of the Hippopotami— Thrilling Adventure with Crocodiles— Frantic Struggles to Escape from Death— Shooting the Huge Monster— Seized with a Sudden Horror— A Great Splash and a Cry of Joy— Ancient Crocodiles with Immense Jaws — Exciting Encounter with a River-Horse— A Remarkable Cliief— Rivers and Swamps Breeding Fevers — Reaching the Banks of the Zambesi— Prevalence of a Troublesome Fly— A Magnificent River— Livingstone's Journey of a Thousand Miles with his Family— Malicious Attack by the Dutch Boers— Livingstone's House Plundered— The Explorer Reaches the Capital of the Makololo — Cordial Welcome from the Natives — The Young King Has a Rival — Ascending the Great River Zambesi- Attempt on the Life of the King — Makololo Architecture — A Grand Dance- Expedition to the West— The Balonda Country— A Visit to Shinti— Scarcity of Food — ** -rival at Loanda— Attacked by Savages— On the Leeba — Arrival at Linyanii. 'AVING given a full description of the curious customs and re- markable character of the tribes among whom Livingstone spent many years, we are now prepared to take up the thread of the narrative and follow him through his various fortuies, his and his remarkable successes. The chief of the Bakwains, Sechele, renounced his heathenism, became a much better man than he had been before, restored his wives to their fathers, and lived in every respect a thoroughly consistent life. The Dutch Boers, who had pushed forward to the confines of the country, proved, however, most adverse to the success of the mission by cariying off the natives and compelling them to labor as slaves. By advice Sechele and his people moved to Kolobeng, a stream about twc hundred miles north of Kurnman, where Dr. Livingstone formed a station. He here built a house with his own hands, having learned carpentering and gardening from Mr. Moffatt, as also blacksmith work. He had now become handy at almost any trade, in addition to doctoring and preach- ing, and, as his wife could make candles, soap, and clothes, they possessed what might be considered the indispensable accomplishment*^ of a missionary family in Central Africa, (98) trials "m PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. 99 IS. Wilderness— The : with Prodigiouc ns Left in Charge jotami— Thrilling Death — Shooting lash and a Cry oi ncounter with a reeding Fevers — iblesome Fly— A with his Family— Plundered — The elcome from the River Zambesi- L Grand Dance— Jhinti— Scarcity of ^eeba — Arrival at jstoms and re- "n Livingstone p the thread of IS fortuies, his he Bakwains, r man than he Hved in every :onfines of the |the mission by as slaves. By ;am about two Itone formed a id carpentering He had now ig and preach- ciothes, they Icomplishment*^ Among the gentlemen who had visited the station was Mr. Oswell, in the East India Company's service. He deserves to take rank as an Af- rican traveller. Hearing that Dr. Livingstone purposed crossing the Kalahara Desert in search of the great Lake N'gami, long known to exist, he came from India on purpose to join him, accompanied by Mro Murray, volunteering to pay the entire expenses of the guides. The Kalahara, though called a desert from being composed of soft sand ind being destitute of water, supports prodigious herds of antelopes, while numbers of elephants, rhinoceros, lions, hyaenas, and other wild animals roam over it. They find support from the astonishing quantity of grass which grows in the region, as also from a species of watermelon, and from several tuberous roots, the most curious of which is as large as the head of a young child, and filled with a fluid like that of a turnip. Another is an herbaceous creeper, the tubers of which, as large as a man's head, it deposits in a circle of a yard or more horizontally from the stem. On the watermelons especially, the elephants and other wild animals ^ revel luxuriously. Starting on a Hazardous Journey. Such was the desert Livingstone and his party proposed to cross when they set out with their wagon on the first of June, 1849, from Kolobeng. Instead, however, of taking a direct course across it, they determined to take a more circuitous route, which, though longer, they hoped would prove safer. Continuing on, they traversed three hundred miles of desert, when, at the end of a month, they reached the banks of the Zouga, a large river, richly fringed with fruit-bf'aring and other trees, many of them of gigantic growth, running north-east towards Lake N'gami. They received a cordial welcome from 'he peace-loving inhabitants of its banks, the Bayeiye, Leaving the wagons in charge of the natives, with the exception of a small one which proc'^eded along the bank, Livingstone embarked in one of their canoes. Frail as are the canoes of the natives, they make long trips in them, and manage them with great skill, often standing up and paddling with long light poles. They thus daringly attack the hippo- potami in their haunts, or pursue the swift ' antelope which ventures to swim across the river. After voyaging on the stream for twelve days, they reached the broad expanse of Lake N'gami. Though wide, it is excessively shallow, and brackish during the rainy season^ They' here heard of the Tamunacle and other large rivers flowing into the lake. Livingstone's main object in coming was to visit Sebituane, the great " 4 f I i if •' .f . ' » ■| ■ i; ■ !■ 100 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. chief of the Makololo, who live about two hundred miles to the north- ward. The chief of the district, Sechulatebe, refused, however, either to give them goods or to allow them to cross the river. Having in vain attempted to form a raft to ferry over the wa^on, they were reluctantly compelled to abandon their design. The doctor had been working at the saft in the river, not aware of the number of crocociles which sv.armed around him, and had reason to be thankful that he escaped their jaws. These creatures are the foes of the traveller, and even the natives entertain for them a peculiar dread. Once in their ferocious jaws all hope is gone. Livingstone had many narrow escapes from the crocodiles which infest many of the rivers of Africa. A graphic account from the writings of a traveller in Africa shows the dangers sometimes met with by Trop- ical explorers. The account is as follows Suddenly the scene became startling. I heard an exclamation of hor- ror from the natives, who, with eyes starting from their sockets, pointed eastward toward the nearer tree clumps. "What is it?" said I, straining my eyes in the .same direction, but in vain. " Crocodiles ! Crocodiles ! " I repeated the word mechanically, my heart sinking within me as I, too, began to distinguish the black points which indicated to the nativts' quick eyes the approaching enemy. Face to Face with the Monsters. "Are you sure?" I whispered hoarsely, the cold sweat pouring off my forehead. " Yes, Sahib, certain ; there are four of them." I had only six explosive-ball cartridges, and, in spite of their terrible effectiveness, I could but remember that the crocodile in the water is well-nigh invulnerable, with only his armor-plated back exposed. How- ever, the terrible foe was still some way off, and I should not myself have detected them but for the natives' quick instinct. There was nothing left us but to try, at any cost, to reach the nearest of the tree islands, avoid- 'ng by guess the bottomless mud-holes that beset the path. The unfortunate native who was responsible for our position headed the line again, sounding to right and left, as he advanced, with his .spear. It is impossible to describe this adventure — marching through the water, pursued by crocodiles, not daring to put down one's foot until assured by sounding that it would reach something solid. Although the island grew perceptibly nearer, our hungry neighbors did too, and at an increasing pace. Still we were distancing them — for over many of the shoals they ■^. ':'!; to the north- ;ver, cither to aving in vain re reluctantly vorking at the liich swarmed their jaws. n the natives s jaws all hope ocodiles which n the writings with by Trop- nation of hor- )ckets, pointed rection, but in ithin me as I, to the nativfes' at pouring off their terrible the water is osed. How- ot myself have ^as nothing left islands, avoid- n osition headed with his spear. ugh the water, ntil assured by ;he island grew an increasing he shoals they tt^fflp : S n » o o o o (101) 102 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. i f!-. :f' in I'; i i ■ could not swim, and wading, for a crocodile, is a slow process — when, without warning, and as quick as lightning, we felt the ground sink beneath our feet, and we were all four precipitated simultaneously into the swamp. Instinctively, my attendant and I raised our weapons and am- munition high over our heads, for when we touched bottom — that is, a fairly solid layer of vegetable matter — the water reached our arm-pits. " We might as well give up," said I, in despair ; " this time we are lost!" " Oh, don't give up yet. Sahib. We are so low that, with this head ,vind, the crocodiles cannot see us and will perhaps be unable to find us at all. Let us cover our heads with • these marsh grasses and leaves and 'lie low.'" Struggrliug- for Dear Life. His advice was so evidently good that instead of a vain attempt to reach the firm land with its inevitable exposure to the hungry eyes of our terrible pursuers, we acquiesced at once. After several minutes of suspense, the native raised himself slightly on a hummock, and glanced cautiously toward the spot where we had last seen them. His facs cleared at once, and he cheered us with — " They have lost us, and have separated to search for us. Three are going almost directly from this place, and one only knows enough to keep on in the first course." " And he is headed for us ? " " In a straight line ! " *'Then do not lose sight of him for an instant. With one enemy we nr.ay b*" able to cope, and then there is a chance that he may lose the scent." When I asked him again where the animal was — for I dared not raise my own head to look — he replied that he was still coming straight toward us, and I saw that a meeting was inevitable and made my preparations accordingly. I took my rifle and loaded it with an explosive ball. "Now then," said I, "listen to my instructions. The native says the crocodile is sure to find us. I shall let him get within ten yards of us, and then I shall fire at whatever vulnerable part I can — his eye or his oelly. Of course I may miss him, or the bullet may glance off his back without wounding him." The black's eyes rolled with horror. "Then, without an instant's hesitation and yet without haste, you, who must stand just behind me, must take my rifle and hand me my other gun for a second shot. Do you understand ? " " Perfectly." ocess — when, ground sink ously into the )ons and am- )m — that is, a our arm-pits, we are lost!" ith this head ible to find us nd leaves and in attempt to ry eyes of our es of suspense, :ed cautiously eared at once, is. Three are lough to keep Dne enemy we ose the scent." ared not raise traight toward preparations ative says the n yards of us, lis eye or his e off his back iste, you, who my other gun THE FAMOUS ANTEDILUVIAN CROCODILE. (108) 104 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. 1 1 i ! ' »•: 4 "And I can depend on you?" "Till death." "We will try to make it less bad than /hat, and your courage shall meet its reward." "A Shudder of Horror Ran througrh Me." I knew what he said was true, for the fellow had been devoted to me 3ver since I saved his life in the jungle when the gorilla grappled him. md I felt I could rely upon him. Raising myself as high as I could, I took a good look at the slowly approaching monster, and, I confess, a shudder of horror ran through me at his immense size. He was farther off than I expected, and evidently quite unconscious of our neighborhood, into which he had come by chance, following the raised path on which we ourselves had been travelling when the tide overtook us. I immediately changed my plan of attack. I ordered my attendant to wade off to the left so that the smoke from his gun should not blow across me, and told him to fire at the crocodile and try to wound him, if only slightly. As this would make the latter raise his head and look round, I hoped to get a shot at some vulnerable spot, and land an explosive ball where it would do most good. I had hardly taken up my position, with rule lifted, when my attendant's gun cracked sharp and clear, and I saw blood fly from the eye of the crocodile, whose advance ceased immediately. I could scarcely restrain a cry of joy, but catching sight of a yellow piece of neck, I fired at it and shut my eyes. A great splash and the shouts of triumph of the natives encouraged me to open them, and I found the suc- cess of the shot greater than I had hoped. A Hard Death. The crocodile lay on his side on a little island with his neck blown ojsen the entire length of the jaw, while the natives who made a break for land without regard to me, capered round him. I called them, and they helped me on shore to where the animal lay in his last agony — for these brutes die as hard as a snake. He was a very large specimen, with a head twice as long as it was broad, his eyes set close together above his long snout, of which only the under jaw was movable. His front feet- had five toes armed with claws, and his hind feet but four, and webbed to allow him to swim easily. His whole body was shingled with plates of a shell-like membrane that made him a fine coat of mail nearly bullet- proof. Green on the back, his color gradually shaded off into yellow, and he was a terrible foe to meet in the water, where we should not have come off so well had not our good luck stood by us just as it did. ge shall meet levoted tc me rrappled him at the slowl> ,n through me and evidently >me by chance, ravelling when of attack, I noke from his ; crocodile and •ound, I hoped /e ball where it with rule lifted, saw blood fly Timediately. I a yellow piece d the shouts of found the sue- his neck blown ade a break for :hem, and they ony — for these ecimen, with a :ther above his His front feet and webbed to with plates oi nearly bullet- off into yellow, ihould not have is it did. Ill': u PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATION. 105 I was duly thankful to regain the bank, which I had never expected to touch again^ and had not the heart to blame the native who was respon- sible for our narrow escape; but I resolved to place less reliance on the natives in future. . . ^ ^ ^„ Ancient Crocodiles. It is interesting to see what changes take place in the Animal Kingdom with the lapse of ages. For instance, the early crocodile, the great monster that lived thousands of years ago had larger jaws, more terribk teeth, and a fiercer look than the crocodile of to-day. We present s strikin"- illustration of this ancient monster reproduced from his remains which have been found. Returning to Livingstone, the season being far advanced, they deter- mined to return to Kolobeng, Mr. Oswell generously volunteering to go down to the Cape and bring up a boat for next season. Half the royal premium for the encouragement of geographical science and discoveries was awarded by the council of the Royal Geographical Society to Dr. Livingstone for the discoveries he made on this journey. Sechele, the Christian chief of the Bakwains, who was eager to assist I him in reaching Sebituane, offered his services, and with him as a guide, i accompanied by Mrs. Livingstone and their three children, he set out, in April, 1850, taking a more easterly course than before. They again reached the lake, but the greater number of the party being at- tacked by fever, he was compelled to abandon his design of visiting Sebituane. He here heard of the death of a young artist, Mr. Rider who had shortly before visited the lake for the purpose of making sketches. Huntinjf the Hippotamus. The natives inhabiting the banks of the rivers falling into Lake N'gami are famed for their skill in hunting the hippopotamus. In perfect silence they approach in their light canoes, and plunge their sharp spears, with thongs attached, into the back of one of the huge creatures, which dashes down the stream, towing the canoe at a rapid rate. Thus the animal con- tinues its course, the hunters holding on to the rope, till its strength is ex- hausted when, other canoes coming up, it is speared to death. Frequently, however, the hippopotamus turns on its assailants, bites the canoe in two, and seizes one of them in its powerful jaws. When they can manage to do so, they tow it into shallow water, and carrying the line on shore, secure it to a tree, while they attack the infuriated animal with their spears, till, sinking exhausted with its efforts, it becomes theif prey. Mr, Oswell, who had arrived too late for the journey, spent the remain- ,i \ \ i>4 1 1 i . - 1 I li i ■ i 1 ■■ 1 ' 1 ■m i 106 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. der of the season in hunting elephants, liberally presenting Dr. Living- stone with the proceeds of his sport, for the outfit of his children. The third journey was commenced in the spring of 185 1, when, rejoined by Mr. Oswell, he set out once more, accompanied by Mrs. Livingstone and their children. First travelling north, and then to the north-east, through a region covered with baobab-trees, abounding with springs, and inhabited by Bushmen, they entered an arid and difficult country. Here, the supply of water became exhausted, great anxiety was felt for the children, who suffered greatly from thirst. At length a small stream, the Mababe, was reached, running into a marsh, across which they had to make their way. During the night they traversed a region infested by the tsetse, a fly not much larger than the common house-fly, the bite of which destroys cattle and horses. A Terrible Pest. It is remarkable that neither man, wild animals, nor even calves as lont^ as they continue to suck, suffer from the bite of this fearful pest. While some districts arc infested by it, others in the immediate neighborhood are free, and, as it does not bite at night, the only way the cattle of travel- lers can escape is by passing quickly through the infested district before the sun is up. Sometimes the natives lose the whole of their cattle by its attacks, and travellers frequently have been deprived of all means of moving with their wagons, in consequence of the death of their animals; some, indeed, have perished from being unable to proceed. Having reached the Chobc, a large river, which falls into the Zambesi, leaving their attendants encamped with their cattle on an island, Living- stone and his family, with Mr. Oswell, embarked in a canoe on the former river, and proceeded down it about twenty miles to an island, where Sebituane was waiting to rcscive them. The chief, pleased with the confidence the doctor had shown in bring- ing his wife and children, promised to take them to see his country, that they might choose a spot where they might form a missionary station He had been engaged in warfare nearly all his life, under varying fortunes, with the neighboring savage tribes, and had at length established himself n a secure position behind the Chobe and Lceambye, whose broad streams guarded hini from the inroads of his enemies. He had now a larger number of subjects and was richer in cattle than any chief in that part of Africa. The rivers and swamps, however, of the region produced fever, which had proved fatal to many of his people. He had long been anxious for * I i I m PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. 107 ng Dr. Living- children. , when, rejoined [rs. Livingstone rough a region id inhabited by ^ere, the supply le children, who lie Mababe, was make their way. ; tsetse, a fly not h destroys cattle jn calves as long ful pest. While te neighborhood e cattle of travel- ed district before heir cattle by its means of moving animals; some, ito the Zambesi, island, Living- oe on the former .n island, where shown in bring- lis country, that ssionary station -arying fortunes, ablished himself e, whose broad He had now a iny chief in that ;ed fever, which leen anxious for intercourse with Europeans, and showed every wish to encourage those who now visited him to remain in his territory. Unhappily, a few days after the arrival of his ^guests the chief was attacked with inflammation of the lungs, originating in an old wound, and, having listened to the gospel message delivered by the doctor, he in a short time breathed his last. Dr. Livingstone says that he was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief he had ever met. His followers expressed the hope that the English would be as friendly to his children as they intended to have been to himself The chieftainship devolved at his death on a daughter, who gave the THE FINAL ATTACK ON A SAVAGE HIPPOPOTAMUS. Ivisitors leave to travel through any part of the country they chose. They laccordingly set out, and traversing a level district covered with wild date- Itrees, and here and there large patches of swamp, for a distance of a Ihundred and thirty miles to the north-east, they reached the banks of the '^ambesi, in the centre of the continent. From the prevalence of the tsetse, and the periodical rise of its nu- Imerous streams causing malaria, Dr. Livingstone was compelled to "abandon the intention he had formed of removing his own people thither that they might be out of reach of their savage neighbors, the Dutch Boers. It was, however, he at once saw, the key of Southern and Central \fnca. The magnificent stream, on the bank of which he now stood, flows m 108 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. #i ' I hundreds of miles east to the Indian Ocean — a mighty artery supplying life to the teeming population of that part of Africa. He therefore deter- mined to send his wife and children to England, and to return himself and spend two or three years in the new region he had discovered, in the hope of evangelizing the pcopU". He accordingly returned to Kolobeng, and then set out with his family a journey of a thousand miles, to Cape Town. Having seen them aboard a homeward bound ship, he again turned his face northward, June, 1852 The Explorer'.s House Robbed. Having reached Kuruman, he was there detained by the breaking of a watron-wheel. Durin;^ that time the Dutch Boers attacked his friends, the Bakwains, carrying off a nt mber of them into slavery, the only excuse the white men had being that Sechele was getting too saucy — in reality because he would not prevent the English traders from passing through his territory to the northward. The Dutch plundered Livingstone's house, and carried off the wagons of the chief and that of a trader who was stopping in the place. Livingstone therefore found great difficulty in obtaining guides and servants to proceed northward. Poor Sechele set out for Cape Town, intending as he said, to lay his complaint before the Queen of England, but was compelled by want of funds to return to his own country, where he devoted himself to the evangelization of his people. Parting with the chief, Livingstone, giving the Boers a wide berth, pro- ceeded across the desert to Linyanti, the capital of the Makololo, where he had visited the Chief Sebituane in 185 1. The whole population, amounting to nearly seven thousand souls, turned out to welcome him. He found that the princess had abdicated in favor of her brother Se- keletu, who received him with the greatest cordiality. The young king, then only nineteen, exclaimed : " I have now got another father instead of Sebituane." The people shared this feeling, believing that by the residence of a missionary among them they would obtain some important benefits, though of the real character of the blessing they might receive they were totally ignorant. A rival of the young king existed in the person of a cousin, Mpepc, who had been appointed by the late king chief over a portion of his subjects, but whose ambition made him aim at the command of the whole. Half-caste Portuguese slave-traders had made their way to Linyanti, and one, who pretended to be an important person, was carried about in a hammock slung between two poles, which looking like a bag, the P rtcry supplying therefore detcr- ) return himself scovered, in the t with his family p ien them aboard ard, June, 1852 le breaking of a eked his friends, , the only excuse ;aucy — in reality passing through :d Livingstone's of a trader who 1 great difficulty d. Poor Sechele complaint before lunds to return to . gelization of his I wide berth, pro- Makololo, where hole population, ;o welcome him, her brother Se- |The young king, [ler father instead ing that by the some important ;y might receive cousin, Mpepc, |. ler a portion of command of the way to Linyanti, 1 carried about in like a bag, the GREAT BAOBAB TREE OF AFRICA. (109) w i f i i 1 II ■ ' 1 |l '^- ^ f ' : :' If 110 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. M- natives called him " the father of the bag." Mpepe favored these scoun- drels, as he hoped by their means to succeed in his rebellion. The arrival of Livingstone, however, somewhat dampened their hopes. Liviugrstoue Saves a Chief Vroiu an Assassin. As the chief object of the doctor was to select a spot for a settlement, he ascended, accompanied by Sekeletu, the great river Zambesi, which had been discovered in the year 1851. The doctor had taught the Makololo to ride on their oxen, which they had never before done, though, havin^j neither saddles or bridles, they constantly fell off. He and Sekeletu were riding along side by side, when they encoun- tered Mpepe, who, as soon as he saw them, ran towards the chief with his axe uplifted ; but Sekeletu, galloping on, escaped him. On their arrival at their camp, while the chief and the doctor were sitting tc gcther, Mpepe appeared, his men keeping hold of their arms. At that moment the rebel entered ; but the doctor, unconsciously covering Sekeletu's body, saved him from the assassin's blow. His cousin's inten- tion having been revealed to Sekeletu, that night Mpepe was dragged off from his fire and speared. So quietly was the deed done that Livingstone heard nothing of it till the next morning. Livingstone was soon after this attacked by fever, when his hosts exhibited the interest they felt for him by paying him every attention in their power. His own remedies of a wet sheet and quinine were more successful than the smoke and vapor baths employed by the natives. It is important that the position of Linyanti should be noted, as from it Livingstone set out on his journey westward to Loanda, on the West Coast, and, returning to it, commenced from thence that adventurous expedition to the East Coast, which resulted in so many interesting discoveries, A Picturesque Cuinpauy. Having recovered from his fever, Livingstone, accompanied by Sekeletu, and about one hundred and sixty attendants, mostly young men, asso- ciates of the chief, set out for Sesheke. The intermediate country was perfectly flat, except patches elevated a few feet only above the sur- rounding level. There were also numerous mounds, the work of ants, which are literally gigantic structures, and often as tall as wild date trees at their full height. The party looked exceedingly picturesque as, the ostrich feathers of the men waving in the air, they wound in a long line in and out among the mounds. Some wore red tunics or variously-colored prints, and their heads were adorned with the white ends of ox tails or caps made of lions' *■% red these scoun- rebellion. The ;ir hopes. sin. - a settlement, he ibesi, which had ht the Makololo , though, having en they encoun- Is the chief with him. On their were sitting tc- - arms. At that ciously covering [is cousin's intcn- epe was drag^^ed deed done that when his hosts very attention in linine were more the natives. )e noted, as from da, on the West that adventurous many interesting nied by Sekeletu, ^oung men, asso- iate country was above the sur- he work of ants, s wild date trees Ich feathers of the id out among the prints, and their ^ Lps made of lions' n (111) irj WONDERS OK THP: TROPICS. U i t! 1 1 manes. The nobles walked with a small club of rhinoceros horn in their hands, their servants carry-n^^ their shields; while the ordinary men bore burdens, and the battle-axe men, who had their shields on their arms, were employed as messengers, often having to run an immense distance. The Makololo possess numerous cattle, and the chief, having to fetd his followers, either selected oxen from his own stock or received them from the head men of the villages through which they passed, as tribute Reaching the village of Katonga on the banks of the Leeambye, som. time was spent there in collecting canoes. During this delay Living stone visited the country to the north of the village, where he saw enor- mous numbers of buffaloes, zebras, elans, and a beautiful small antelope. He was enabled, by this hunting expedition, to supply his companions with an abundance of food. At length, a sufficient number of canoes being collected, they com- menced the ascent of the river. His own canoe had six paddles, while that of the chief had ten. They paddled standing upright, and kept stroke with great exactness. Being fiat-bottomed, they can float in \ cry shallow water. The fleet consisted altogether of thirty-three canoes and one hundred and sixty men. *♦ Man Overboanl ! ** Most of the Makololo are unable to swim, and a canoe being upset, one of the party, an old doctor, was lost, while the Barotse canoe-men easily save themselves by swimming. Numerous villages were seen on both banks of the river, the inhabitants of which are expert hunters of the hippopotamus, and are excellent handi- craftmen. They manufacture wooden bowls with neat lids, and show much taste in carving stools. Some make neat baskets, a^d others excel in pottery and iron. On their arrival at the town of the lather of Mpope, who had instigated his son to rebellion, two of his chief councilors were led forth and tossed into the river. Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, the tribe inhabiting the district in which they now were, is built on an artificially-constructed mound, as are many other villages of that region, to raise them above the overflowing river. From finding no trace of European names among them, Livingstone was convinced that the country had not before been visited by white men; whereas, after he had come among them, great numbers of children were named after his own boy, while others were called Horse, Gun, Wagon, etc. Roarings Lions. Here again numbers of large game were seen. Eighty-one buffaloes defiled in slow procession before the fire of the travellers one evening -^ ! horn in their lary men bore )n their arms, icnsc distance, having to kcA received them sed, as tribute ieambyc, soin. delay Living' ,' he saw enor- small antelope. lis companicins ted, they com- paddles, while ight, and kept m float in very iree canoes and oe being upset, )tse canoe-men the inhabitants xcellent handi- lids, and show 1 others excel in ther of Mpepe, lounciiors were the district in mound, as are the overflowing ;m, Livingstone I by white men; children were in, Wagon, etc. -one buflaloes Irs one evening (113) IH WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. if : Ji:l':- V i; i ' ■'. 1 i if il;, I if '- ; :-M^::: ■within gunshot, and herds of splendid elans stood at two hundred yards" distance, without shom'ng signs of fear. Lions, too, approached and roared at them. One night, as they were sleeping on the summit of a* large sandbank, a lion appeared on the opposite shore, who amused him- self for hours by roaring as loudly as he could. The river was too broad for a ball to reach him, and he walked off without suffering for his imper- tinence. Livingstone* saw two as tall as common donkeys, their manes making their bodies appear of still greater size. Lions are in the habit of preying upon cattle, and the natives have ic contrive all mahner of ways for protecting their herds. These formida* ble beasts have been known to carry off young cattle as large as themselves. On their journey they visited the town of Ma-Sekeletu, or the Mother of Sekelctu, where, ar it was the first visit the king had paid to this part of his dominions, he was received with every appearance of joy. A grand dance was got up, the men moving in a circle, with spears and small battle-axes in their hands, roaring at the loudest pitch of their voices. The arms and head were thrown about in every direction, the roaring being kept up with the utmost vigor, while the dust ascended in clouds around them. Wild Men of the Jiiii{>^le. Returning down the stream at a rapid rate, they quickly reached Linyanti. During this nine weeks' tour, Dr. Livingstone had been in closer contact with heathenism than ever before, and though, including the chief, everyone had been as attentive as possible, yet the dancing, roaring, singing, jesting, quarreling, added to the murdering propensities of these children of nature was painful in the extreme. The chief and his followers, agreeing that the object of Livingstone's proposed expedition to the west was most desirable, took great pains to assist him in the undertaking. A band of twenty-seven men was ap- pointed to accompany him by the chief's command, whose eager desire was to obtain a free and profitable trade with the white men, and this, Livingstone was convinced, was likely to lead to their ultirnate elevation and improvement. Three men whom he had brought from Kurumar? having suffered greatly from fever, he sent them back with Fleming, & trader, who had followed his footsteps. His new attendants he named Zambesians, for there were only two Makololo nien — the rest consisting of Barotse, Batoka, and other tribes. His wagon and remaining goods he committed to the charge of the Makololo, who took all the articles into their huts. He carried only a rifle and a double-barrelled smooth- hundred yards' pproached and he summit of a* lo amused him- r was too broad g for his imper- ys, their manes natives have to These formida« tie as large as 1, or the Mother d to this part of joy, A grand pears and small of their voices, on, the roaring snded in clouds juickly reached le had been in ough, including ^et the dancing, ing propensities Df Livingstone's great pains to en men was ap- Dse eager desire ; men, and this, imate elevation from Kurumai ^vith Fleming, & dants he named i rest consisting miaining goods : all the articles relied smooth- 116 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. bore gun for himself, and gave three muskets to his people, by means ol which he hoped game might be obtained for their support. Wishing also to save his followers from having to carry heavy loads, he took for his own support but a few biscuits and a pound of tea and sugar, about twenty ol coffee, a small tin canister with some spare shirting, trousers, and shoes, another for medicines, and a third for books, while a fourth contained a magic lantern. His ammunition was distributed in portions among the whole luggage, that, should an accident occur to one, the rest might be preserved. His camp equipage consisted of a gipsy tent, a sheep-skin mantle, and a horse-rug as a bed, as he had always found that the chief art of successful travelling consisted in taking as few impediments as possible. His sextant, artificial horizon, thermometer, and compasses were carried apart. Carry as little as he would, Livingstone found that he was compelled to take more baggage than could be conveniently transported through African forests and jungles. Some people in civilized countries when they travel appear to take everything they need and everything they do not need ; it cannot be said of our great explorer, however, that he took anything which was not needed. His box of medicines was, of course, a constant companion ; we shall see farther on that this box was lost or stolen and that the exr :dition was left entirely without medical remedies. Often large parts of the baggage would have to be exchanged with the natives for food, or paid out as tribute to unfriendly chiefs. This was one of the unpleasant experiences and severe hardships which the £jreat traveller encountered. It will be seen through all these journeys that Livingstone was per- fectly willing to share the fate of his men. He asked nothing for him- self better than Ire was willing to grant for them. If they slept on the hard ground, he was willing to sleep there too ; if they waded rivers, he was willing to go in as deep as they went; if they had unwholesome food, and little of it, he was ready to divide with them his last cri.st. By his own self-sacrificing and generous spirit he attached himself strongly to his followers. This was one great secret of his magnificent achievements in the Dark Continent :, by means oi y heavy loads, und of tea and : spare shirting, books, while a ; distributed in nt occur to one, ;ted of a gipsy he had always n taking as few i, thermometer, was compelled ported through countries when ything they do er, that he took was, of course, box was lost or edical remedies, langpd with the liefs. This was vhich the ^reat Tstone was per- sthing for him- ley slept on the aded rivers, he unwholesome his last cri.st. tached himself his magnificent CHAPTER VI. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. Dangers of River Navigation— Luxuriant Wili Fruits— Skillful Management of Canoes by Natives— Magnificent Scenery— Man Seized by a Crocodile— Beautiful Flov/ers and Wild Honey— Strapping Chieftainess Smeared with Fat and Red Ochre — Pompous Chief— Curious Piano— Portuguese Traders— Warm Reception to the Explorers— Lifting off Roofs of Houses to Cover the Travellers— A Chief who Killed His Subjects for Amusement— Remarkable Custom for Cementing Friendship — Tricksters who Want Money— Livingstone Suffers from Fever— Savage Attack upon the Expedition— Using Charms and Cupping for Sickness— Black Corporal for an Escort— Beautiful Country Going to Waste— Vast Herds of Cattle— An Ornamental Garden— Natives A„. on ished by Strange Sightr— Generous Gifts of Jolly Tars— "Stones that Burn"— An Attractive Town— The Irrepressible Don- )fey_Strange Belief in Evil Spirits— Grotesque Head-dresses— Fine Sport with the Gun— The Expedition Travelling in Small Canoes— Livingstone Charged by a Buffalo— Noisy Welcome to the Explorers— Troops of Elephants. N the nth of November, 1853, accompanied by the chief and his principal men to see him off, Livingstone left and embarked on the Chobe. The chief danger in navigating this river is from the bachelor hippopotami who have been expelled their herd, and, whose tempers being soured, the canoes are frequently upset by them. One of these misanthropes chased some of his men, and ran after them on shore with considerable speed. The banks of the river were clothed with trees, among them acacias and evergreens, from the pink-colored specimens of which a pleasant acid drink is obtained. Leaving the Chobe, they entered the Leeambye, up which they pro- ceeded at a somewhat slow rate, as they had to wait at different villages for supplies of food. Several varieties of wild fruit were presented to them. The crews of the canoes worked admirably, being always in good humor, and, on any danger threatening, immediately leaped overboard to prevent them coming broadside to the stream, or being caught by eddies, or dashed against the rocks. Birds, fish, iguanas, and hippo- potami abounded ; indeed the whole river teemed with life. On November 30th, the Gonye Falls were reached. No rain having fallen, it was excessively hot. They usually got up at dawn — about five in the morning — coffee was taken and the canoes loaded, the first two hours being the most pleasant part of the day's sail. The Barotse, being a tribe of boatmen, managed their canoes admirably. (117) ^ Wt I !iT! >! Iv^f 1 h ' 1 !~ a. i 118 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. At about eleven they landed to lunch. After an hour's rest they embarked, the doctor with an umbrella overhead. Sometimes they reached a sleeping-place two hours before sunset. Coffee was again served out, with coarse bread made of maize meal, or Indian corn, unless some animal had been killed, when a potful of flesh was boiled. The canoes were carried beyond the falls, slung on poles placed on men's shoulders. Here as elsewhere the doctor exhibited his magic lantern, j^ceatly to the delight of the people. Beautiftil Scenery* Nothing could be more lovely than the scenery of the falls. The water rushes through a fissure and, being confined below by a space not more than a hundred yards wide, goes rolling over and over in great masses, amid which the most expert swimmer can in vain make way. The doctor was able to put a stop to an intended fight between the inhabitants of two villages. Several volunteers offered to join him, but his followers determined to adhere to the orders of Seketelu, and refused all other companions. They were treated most liberally by the inhabi- tants of all the villages, who presented them with more oxen, milk and meal than they could stow away. Entering the Leeambye, ""^.ivingstone proceeded up that stream in his canoe, while his oxen and a portion of his men continued their journey along its banks. The rain had fallen, and nature had put on her gayest apparel ; flowers of great beauty and curious forms grew everywhere, many of the forest trees having palmated leaves, the trunks being covered with lichens, while magnificent ferns were seen in all the moister situations. In the cool morning the welkin rang with the singing of birds, and the ground swarmed with insect life. Coinbat witli a Monstrous Crocodile. Crocodiles were in prodigious numbers, children and calves being constantly carried off by them. One of his men was seized, but, retaining his presence of mind when dragged to the bottom^ he struck the monster with his javelin and escaped, bearing the marks of t) e reptile's teeth on his thigh. The doctor's men had never before used firearms, and, proving bad shots, came to him for " gun medicine " to enable them to shoot better As he was afraid of their exhausting his supply of powder he wai compelled to act as sportsman for the party. Leaving Leeambye, he proceeded up the Leeba. Beautiful flowers and abundance of wild honey was found on its shores, and large num- bers of young crocodiles were seen sunning themselves on the sandbanks with their parents. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 119 (ur's rest they >metimes they fee was again • Indian corn, ;sh was boiled, laced on men's magic lantern. lis. The water Dace not more great masses, ay. it between the o join him, but lu, and refused by the inhabi- oxen, milk and '•e, ""^.ivingstone id a portion of )parel ; flowers of the forest with lichens, tions. In the id the ground calves being but, retaining k the monster tile's teeth on s, and, proving hem to shoot )owder, he was, lutiful flowers d larj^e num- :he sandbanks They had now reached the Balonda country, and received a visit from A chieftainess, Manenko, a tall strapping woman covered with ornamenis ''iiiiiiw ■P0::^k> ■'^'■''''''.■i-!.'i':^'i!'5'aJ-!.'':':ii:'':;;^^ ■ NT ■•)''', III* riiw" Jl:i||iliiiiii!li.ni and smeared over with fat and red ochre as a protection a-ainst th ueather. She invited them to visit her uncle Shinti, the chief of tht ■> f m 1 Rt ^n 120 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ii i I country. They set out in the midst of a heavy drizzling mist; on, how- ever, the lady went, in the lightest marching order. The doctor enquired why she did not clothe herself during the rain; but it appeared that she did not consider it proper for a chief to appear effeminate. The men, in admiration of her pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked: *' Manenko is a soldier." Some of the people in her train carried shieldf composed of reeds, of a square form, five feet long and three broad. With these, and armed with broadswords and quivers full of iron-headed; arrows, they looked somewhat ferocious, but are in reality not noted for their courage. A Pompous Chief. The doctor was glad when at length the chieftainess halted on the banks of a stream, and preparations were made for the night's lodging. After detaining them several days, she accompanied them on foot to Shinti's town. The chief's place of audience was ornamented by two graceful banyan trees, beneath one of which he sat on a sort of throne covered with a leopard-skin. He wore a checked shirt and a kilt of scarlet baize, edged with green, numerous ornaments covering his arms and legs, while on his head was a helmet of beads, crowned with large goose feathers. At his side sat three lads with quivers full of arrows over their shoulders. Livingstone took his seat under the shade of another tree opposite to the chief, while the spokesman of the party, who had accompanied them, in a loud voice, walking backwards and forwards, gave an account of the doctor and his connection with the Makololo. Behind the chief sat a hundred women clothed in red baize, while his wife was sitting in front of him. Between the speeches the ladies burst forth into a sort of plain- tive ditty. Singriilar Piano. The party was entertained by a band of musicians, consisting of three drummers and four performers on the marimba, a species of piano. It consists of two bars of wood placed side by side ; across these are fixed fifteen wooden keys, each two or three inches broad and about eighteen long, their thickness being regulated by the deepness of the note required. Each of the keys has a calabash below it, the upper portion of which, being cut off to hold the bars, they form hollow sounding-boards to the keys. These are also of different sizes according to the notes required. The keys are struck by small drum sticks to produce the sound. The Portuguese have imitated the marimba^ and use it in their dances in Angola. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 121 The women in this country are treated with more respect by the men than in other parts of Africa. A party of Mambari, with two native Portuguese traders, had come up to obtain slaves, and, while Dr. Living- stone was residing with Shinti, some young children were kidnapped, evidently to be sold to them. The day before he was to recommence his journey, the doctor received a visit in his tent from Shinti, who, as a mark of his friendship, presented him with a shell on which he set the greatest value, observing : "There, now you have a proof of my affection." These shells, as marks of dis- tinction, are so highly valued that for two of them a slave may be bought, and five will buy an elephant's tusk worth fifty dollars. The old chief had provided a guide, Int^mese, to conduct them to the territory of THE MARIMBA, OR AFRICAN PIANO. the next chiei', Katema. He also gave an abundant supply of food, and wished them a prosperous journey. Livingstone again started on the 26th of January, Shinti sending eight men to assist in carrying his luggage. He had now to quit the canoes and to proceed on ox-back, taking a northerly direction. He and his party received the same kind treatment in the country at ' before, the villagers, by command of their chiefs, presenting them with an' abundance of food. They found English cotton cloth more eageily enquired after than beads and ornaments. On arriving at a village the inhabitants lifted off the roofs of some cf their huts, and brought them to the camp, to save the men the tiouble of booth-making. On starting again the villagers were left to replace them at theii leisure, no payment 122 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. being expected. Heavy rains now came on, and the doctor and his party were continually wet to the skin. Polite as the people were, they were still fearful savages. Messengers arrived from the neighboring town to announce the death of their chief, Matiamvo. That individual had been addicted to running a-muck through his capital and beheading any one he met, till he had a large heap of human heads in front of his hut. Men were also slaughtered occasionally, whenever the chief wanted part of a body to perform cer- tain charms. The Balonda appear to have some belief in the existence of the soul, and a greater feeling of reverence in their composition than the tribes to the eastward. Among their customs they have a remarkable one. Those who take it into their heads to become friends, cement their friendship. Taking their seats opposite one to the other, with a vessel of beer Ly the side of each, they clasp hands. They then make cuts on their clasped hands, the pits of their stomachs, their foreheads, and right cheeks. The point of a blade of grass is then pressed against the cuts, and afterwards each man washes it in his own pot of beer ; exchanging pots, the contents are drunk, so that each man drinks the blood of the other. Thus they consider that they become blood relations and are bound in every possi- ble way to assist each other. These people were greatly surprised at the liberty enjoyed by the Makololo. Playiujf Tricks for Money. The travellers paid a visit to Katema, the chief of the district, who received them dressed in a snuff-brown coat, with a helmet of beads and feathers on his head, and in his hand a number of tails of ^w/j bound together. He also sent some of his men to accompany them on their journey. The rains continued, and the doctor suffered much from having to sleep on the wet ground. Having reached the latitude of Loanda, Livingstone now directed his course to the westward. On the 4th of March he reached the outskirts of the territory of the Chiboque. As he approached the more civilized settlements, he found the habits jf the people changed much for the worse ; tricks of all sorts were played to detain him and obtain tribute; the guides also tried in every way to impose on him. Even his Makololo expressed their sorrow at seeing; so beautiful a country ill cultivated and destitute of cattle. He was compelled to sell one of his riding oxen for food, as none could be obtained. The Chiboque coming round in great numbers, their chief demanded tribute, and one of their number made a charge at Livingstone, hut quickly retreated on having the muzzle of the traveller's gun pointed I m r STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 123 at his head. The chief and his councillors, however, consenting to sit down on the ground, the Makololo, well drilled, surrounded them, and thus got them completely in their power. A mutiny, too, broke out among his own people, who complained of want of food ; but it was sup- pressed by the appearance of the doctor with a double-barrelled pistol in his hand. They never afterwards gave him any trouble. Similar demands for payment to allow him to pass through the country were made by other chiefs, his faithful Makololo giving up their orna- nents, as he had done nearly all the beads and shirts in his possession. The most extortionate of these chiefs was loaga Panza, whose sons, after STAMPEDE OF SOUTH AFRICAN GNUS. receiving payment for acting as guides, deserted him. All this time Livingstone was suffering daily from rhe attacks of *"'"vci', which rendered him excessively weak, so that he could scarcely sit upon his ox. The country appeared fertile and full of small villages, and the soil is 30 rich that little labor is required for its cultivation. It is, however, the chief district whence slaves are obtained, and a feeling of insecurity was evident amongst the inhabitants. A demand was now made by each chief for a man, an ox, or a tusk as a tribute. The first, was of course, refused, but nearly all the remainder of the traveller's property had to be thus paid away. a 1 124 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. On the 4th of April they reached the banks of the Quango, here one hundred and fifty yards wide. The chief of the district — a young man, who wore his hair curiously formed into the shape of a cone, bound round with white thread — on their refusing to pay him an extortionate demand, ordered his people not to ferry them across, and opened fire on them. At this juncture a half-caste Portuguese, a sergeant of militia, Cypriano Di Abrcu, arrived, and, obtaining ferrymen, they crossed over into the territory of the Bangala, who are subject to the Portuguese. Tiiey had some time before rebelled, and troops were now stationed among them, Cypriano being in command of a party of men. Next morning he pro- vided a delicious breakfast for his guest, and fed the Makololo with pumpkins and maize, while he supplied them with farina for their journey to Kasenge, without even hinting at payment. The natives, though they long have h«d intercourse with the Portu- guese, are ignorant and superstitious in the extreme. Many parts of the country are low and marshy, and they suffer greatly from fever. Of the use of medicine they have no notion, their only remedies being charms and cupping. The latter operation is performed with a small horn, which has a little hole in the upper end. The broad end is placed on the flesh, when the operator sucks througli the hole; as the flesh rises, he gashes it with a knife, then replaces the horn and sucks again, till finally he introduces a piece of wax into his mouth, to stop up the hole, when the horn is left to allow the blood to gush into it. It took the travellers four days to reach Kasenge, a town inhabited by about forty Portuguese traders and their servants. Though told by the doctor that he was a Protestant minister, they treated him with the greatest kindness and hospitality. A Black Corporal for au £scort. Here the Makololo sold Sekeletu's tusks, obtaining much better prices than they would have done from the Cape traders, forgetting, however, that their value was greatly increased by the distance they had been brought. The Makololo here expressed their fears, from what they had heard, that they were about to be led down to the sea-coast to be sold, but when Livingstone asked them if he had ever deceived them, and that he would assure them of their safety, they agreed to accompany him. The mer- chants of Kasenge treated the doctor with the most disinterested kind- ness, and furnished him with letters to their friends at Loanda. He was escorted by a black corporal of militia, who was carried in a hammock by his slaves. He could both read and write, and was STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 125 ngo, here one ing man, who bound round nate demand, ire on them, itia, Cypriano 3ver into the e. Tliey had among them, ning he pro- [akololo with their journey th the Portu- y parts of the ever. Of the aeing charms L small horn, Dlaced on the lesh rises, he lin, till nnally e hole, when inhabited by \\ told by the lim with the better prices |ng, however, ly had been had heard^ fid, but when lat he would The mer- Ir^sted kind- la. I carried in a and was cleanly in all his ways; he was considerate r' - his young slaves, and walked most of the way, only getting into his ha iock on approaching C/l n w 2 W Z > O > n > s a village, for the sake of keeping up his dignity. He, however, had the usual vices of African guides, and did not fail to cheat those he was sent to protect. fT • 1 i 1-1' ' •120 ii| ill ■p^ WONDKRS OF THE TROPICS. Sleeping-places were erected on the road about ten miles apart, as there is a constant stream of people going to and coming from the coast. Goods arc either carried on the head or on one shoulder, in a sort of basket, supported by two poles five or six feet long. When the carrier feels tired and halts, he plants them on the ground, allowing his burden to rest against a tree, so that he has not to lift it up from the ground tc the level of his head. On arriving at a sleeping-place, the sheds were immediately taken possession of by the first comers, those arriving lan': having to make huts with long grass for themselves. Women might then be seen coming from their villages with baskets of manioc meal yams, garlic, and other roots for sale. As "Livingstone had supplied himself with calico at Kasenge, he was able to purchase what was necessary. The district of Ambaca, through which he now passed, was excessively fertile. Large numbers of cattle exist on its pastures, which are well watered by flowing streams, while lofty mountains rise in the distance. It is said to contain forty thousand souls. The doctor was delighted with Golcongo Alto, a magnificent district — the hills bedecked with trcL's of various hues, the graceful oil-yielding palm towering above them. Here the commandant. Lieutenant Castro, received him in a way that won the doctor's affectionate regard. He calculated that this district has a popu- lation of a hundred and four thousand. The lieutenant regretted, as does every person of intelligence, the neglect with which this magnificent country has been treated. Natives Astonished by Strange Sifjlits. As they proceeded, they passed streams with cascades, on which mills might easily be formed ; but here numbers of carpenters were converting the lofty trees which grew around into planks, by splitting them with wedges. At Trombeta the commandant had his garden ornamented with rows of trees, with pineapples and flowers growing between them. A few years ago he purchased an estate for eighty dollars, on which he had now a coffee plantation and all sorts of fruit trees and grape-vines, beside grain and vegetables growing, as also a cotton plantation. As they approached the sea the Makololo gazed at it, spreading ouJ before them, with feelings of awe, having before believed that the whole vvorld was one extended plain. They again showed their fears that they might be kidnapped, but Livingstone reassured them, telling them that as they had stood by each other hitherto, so they would do to the last. On the 31st of May they descended a declivity leading to the city of Loanda, where Livingstone was warmly welcomed by Mr. Gabriel, the STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. V27 British commissioner. Sccirifj him so ill, he benevolently offered the doctor his bed. "Never shall I forget," says Livingstone, "the luxu- rious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good English couch, after for six months sleeping on the ground." It took many days how- f^ver, before the doctor recovered from the exposure and fatigue he had CHARMING AWAY EVIL SPIRITS. endured. All that time he was watched over with the most generous sympathy by his kind host. The Portuguese Bishop of Angola, and numerous other gentlemen, called on him and tendered their services. Her Majesty's ship "Polyphemus" coming in, the surgeon, Mr. Coclw'in, afforded him the medical assistance he so much required, and 128 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. t: I ■^. it 1 I soon he was suficiently recovered to call on the bishop, attended by his Makololo followers. They had all been dressed in new robes of striped cotton cloth, and red caps, presented Hv Mr, Gabriel. The bishop, acting as head of the provisional government, received them in form, and gave them permission to come to Loanda and trade as often as they wished, with which ihey were greatly pleased. The Makololo gazed with astonishment at all they witnessed, the large stone houses and churches esp of a month, astonished at the vast amount of " stones that bu n " which were taken out of her. With the money thus obtained they pur- chased clothing, beads, and ether articles to carry home with them. In selecting calicoes they were well able to judge of the best, and chose such pieces as appeared the strongest, without reference to color. Saint Paul de Loanda, once a considerable city, has now fallen greatly into decay. There are, however, many large stone houses, and the palace of the governor; and the government offices, are substantial structures. Trees are planted throughout the town for the sake of shade. Though the dwellings of the native inhabitants are composed merely of wattle and daub, from the sea they present an imposing appearance. Though at first the government lost its chief revenue from the sup- pression of the slave trade, it has again gradually increased by the lawful commerce now carried on by its merchants The officers are, however, so badly paid that they are compelled to engage in mercantile pursuits, and some attempt by bribes to assist the slave-dealers. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 129 From the kind and generous treatment Livingstone received from the Portuguese, they rose deservedly high in his estimation. ** He now prepared for his departure. The merchants sent a present to Sekeletu, consisting of specimens of all their articles of trade and two donkeys, that the breed might be introduced into his country, as the venomous fly called the tsetse cannot kill those beasts of burden. The doctor was also furnished with letters of recommendation to the Portu- guese authorities in Eastern Africa. The bishop likewise furnished hirr with twenty carriers, and sent forward orders to the commandants of the districts to the east to render him every assistance. He supplied himself with ammunition, and beads, and a stock of cloth, and he gave each of his men a musket. He had also purchased a horse for Sekeletu. His friends of the "Philomel' fitted him out also with a new tent, and, on the 20th of Septem- ber, 1854, he and his party left Loanda, es- corted by Mr. Gabriel, who, from his un- wearied atten- tions and liber- ality to his men, had become en- deared to all their hearts. Passing round by the sea, he ascended the Rivei- Bengo to IcoUo-i- Bengo, once the residence of a native king. While Mr, Gabriel returned to Loanda, Dr. Livingstone and his party proceeded to Golcongo Alto, where he left some of his men to rest, while he. took an excursion to Kasenge, celebrated for its coffee plantations. On his return he found several of them suffering from fever, while one of them had gone out of his mind, but in short time recovered. He had thus an opportunity of watching the workings of slavery. The moment their master was ill, the slaves ate up everything on which they could lay their hands, till the doctor himself could scarcely obtain SINGULAR MODE OF DRESSING THE HAIR. 130 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. m 'i m even bread and butter. Here Sekeletu's horse was seized with inflamma- tionT'and the poor animal afterwards died on its journey. On the 28th of February they reached the banks of the Quango, where they were again received by Cy;""'iano. The colored population of Angola are sunk in the grossest superstition. They fancy themselves completely in the power of spirits, and are con- stantly deprecating tlieir wrath. A chief, named Gantio, had lately been a'^cused of witchcraft, and, being killed by the ordeal, his body was thrown into the river. Heavy payment was demanded by the ferrymen for crossing in their wretched canoes ; but the cattle and donkeys had to swim across. Avoiding their friend with the comical head-dress, they made their way to the camp o( some Ambakistas, or half-caste Portuguese, who had gone across to trade in wax. They are famed for their love of leat'iimg, and are keen traders, and, writing a peculiarly fine hand, are generally employed as clerks, sometimes being called the Jews of Angola. Faiita.stic Hcud-dresscs. The travellers were now in the country of the Bishinji, possessing the lowest negro physiognomy. At a village where they halted, they were attacked by the head man, who had been struck by one of the Makololo on their previous visit, although atonement had been made. A large body of the natives now rushed upon them as they were passing thi )ugh a forest, and began firing, the bullets passing amid the trees. Dr. Living- stone fortunately encountered the chief, and, presenting a six-barrelled revolver, produced an instant revolution in his martial feelings. The- doctor then, ordering him and his people to sit down, rode off. They were now accompanied by their Portuguese friends, tae Londa people, who inhabit the banks of theLoajima. They elaborately dress their hair in a number of way-. It naturally hangs down on their shoulders in large masses, which, with their general features, gives them a strong resemblance to the ancient Egyptians. Some of them adorn their heads with ornaments of woven hair and hide to which they occasionally suspend the tails of buffaloes. Another fash ion is to weave the hair on pieces of hide in the form of buffalo horns projecting on either side of the head. The young nen twine their hair in the form of horns projecting in different directions. They frequently tattoo their bodies, producing figures in the form of stars. Although their hja':ls are thus elaborately adorned, their bodies are almost destitute of clothin*;. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 131 inflamnia- i the 28th they were iperstition. I are con- lately been body was ng in their im across, nade their guese, who eir love of fine hand, he Jews of ssessing the I, they were le Makololo large body thr )Ugh a Dr. Living- x-barrelled ings. The off. They da people, Reaching Calongo, Livingstone directed his course towards the terri- tory of his old friend, Katema. They were generally well received at the It naturally licir general Egyptians, |ir and hide lother fash- Iffalo horns |e their hair frequently Although bt destitute DEAUTIFUL ZEBRAS OF AFRICA. villages. On the 2nd of June they reached that of Kanawa. This chief, whose village consisted of forty or fifty huts, at first treated them very Ill' T , I liii i 1 • : »i 182 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. politely, but he took it into his head to demand an ox as tribute. On their refusing it, Kanawa ordered his people to arm. On this, Livingstone diiectcd his Makololo to commence the march. Some did so with alacrity, but one of them refused, and was preparing to fire at Kanawa, when the doctor, giving him a blow with his pistol, made him go too. They had already reached the banks of the river when they found that Kanaw a had sent on ahead to carry off all the canoes. The ferrymen supposing that the travellers were unable to navigate the canoes, left them, unprotected, on the bank. As soon as it was dark, therefore, the Mako- lolo quickly obtained one of them, and the whole party crossed, greatly to the disgust of Kanawa when he discovered in the morning what had occurred. They now took their way across the level plain, which had been flooded on their former journey. Numberless vultures were flying in the air, showing the qujnt-'ty of carrion which had been left by the waters. They passed Lake Diloio, a sheet of water six or eight miles long pnd two broad. The sight of the blue waters had a soothing effect on the doctor, who was suffering from fever, after his journey through the gloomy forest and across the wide flat. Pitsane and Mohorisi, Livingstone's chief men, had proposed establishing a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba, 'near its confluence with the Loeambye, that it might become a market to communicate westward with Loanda, and eastward with the regions along the banks of the Zambesi. E.vploit.s with the Gun. Old Shinti, whose capital they now reached, received them as before in a friendly way, and supplied them abundantly with provisions. The doc- tor left with him a number of plants, among which were orange, cashew, custard, apple, and fig-trees, with coffee, acacias, and papaws, which he had brought from Loanda. They were planted out in the enclosure of one of his principal men, with a promise that Shinti should have a share . of them when grown. Ti ey now again embarked in six small canoes on the waters of the Leeba. Paddling down it, they ne.xt entered the Leeambye. Here they ** found a party of hunters, who had been engaged in stalking buffaloes,' hippopotami, and other animals. They use for this purpose the skin of a deer, with the horns attached, or else the head and upper part of the body of a crane, with which they creep through the grass till they can get near enough to shoot their prey. The doctor, wishing to obtain some meat for his men, took a small canoe and paddled up a creek towards a herd of zebras seen on the shore. On their nngstone so with Kanawa, n go too. >und that ferrymen loft them, [le Mako- d, greatly what had m flooded 11 the air, :rs. They r pnd two > he doctor, 3my forest chief men, ;he Leeba, i a market le regions Is before in The doc- ;e, cashew, which he liclosure of tve a share . tcrs of the I Here they ^ buffaloes,' skin of a If the body \n get near )k a small the shore. i 1 1 033) ~7 "1-1 134 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. WW'^ il F'irinjT he broke the hind leg of one of them. His men pursued it, and» as he walked slowly after them, he observed a solitary buffalo, which had been disturbed by others of his party, galloping towards him. The only tree was a hundred yards off The doctor cocked his rifle in the hope of striking the brute on the forehead. The thought occurred to him, but A'hat should his gun miss fire ? The animal came on at a tremendous speed, but a small bush a snort distance off made it swerve and expose its shoulder. The doctor fired, and as he heard the ball crack, he fell flat on lis face. The buffalo bounded past him towards the water, near which it was found dead. His Makololo blamed tlemselves for not having been by his side, while he returned thanks to God for his preservation. A Joyous Reception. On reaching the town of Lebouta, they were welcomed with the warm- est demonstrations of joy, the women coming out, dancing and singing. Thence they were conducted to the kotlar, or house of assembly, where Pitsand delivered a long speech, describing the journey and the kind way in which they had been received at Loanda, especially by the English chief Next day Livingstone held a service, when his Makololo braves, ar- rayed in their red caps and white suits of European clothing, attended, sitting with their guns over their shoulders. As they proceeded down Barotse Valley, they were received in the same cordial manner. The doctor was astonished at the prodigious quantities of wild animals of all descriptions which he saw on this journey, and also when traversing the country further to the east — elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, zebras, an- telopes, and pigs. Frequently the beautiful springbok appeared, covering the plain, sometimes in sprinklings and at other times in dense crowds, as far as the eye could reach. The troops of elephants also far exceeded in numbers anything which he had ever before heard of or conceived. He and his men had often to shout to them to get out of their way. and on more than one occasion a herd rushed in upon the travellers, who not without difficulty made their escape. A number of young elephants were shot for food, their flesh being highly esteemed. To the natives the huge beasts are a great plague, aj they break into their gardens and eat up their pumpkins and other produce; when disturbed they are apt to charge those interrupting their feast, and, following them, to demolish the huts in which they may have tali ..c .'.ad thus opened out a way to the enterprise of these industrious aid intelligent people. The donkeys which had been brought excited much admiration, ;md, ?- they were not affected by the bite of the rseise, it was hoped that they might prove of great use. Their music, however, startled the inhabitants more than the roar of lions. It is not difficult to believe this statement. It is in the nature of the ionkey to be heard ev>n farther than he can be seen, and when he takes in a full breath and opens his mouth, it is not strange that those who listen to his bray are frightened. This animal, however, «s not to be judged either by his looks or his voice. He is exceedingly useful, and can be trained to difficult service and, although he h?.s an extraordinary temper and an extraordinary pair of ears, still the world is better off for the donkey. He should be looked at as a part of the Divine creation, and the humbler animals are certainly deserving of consideration for the good that they render to the human race. It is not customary in our country to make any great use of the dou- Iv^ bh '1 I of eating and sleeping in quiet." It is remarkable that all to whom the doctor spoke, eagerly Ufught up the idea of living in peace as the proba- ble cflLct of the Gospel. This region Sekwebu considered one of the best adapted for the residence of a large tribe. It was here that Sebit- uane formerly dwelt. They now crossed the Kafue by a ford. Every available spot betweet the river and hills was under cultivation. The inhabitants selected these positions to secure themselves and their gardens from their human enemies They are also obliged to make pit-holes to protect their grounds from tht hippopotami. These animals, not having been disturbed, were unusually tame, and took no notice of the travellers, A number of young ones were seen, not much larger than terrier dogs, sitting on the necks of their dams, the little saucy-looking heads cocked up between the old one's ears ; when older they sit more on the mother's back. Meat being required, a full-grown cow was shot, the flesh of which resembles pork. Great Niiinbers of Wild Animals. The party now directed thc:r course to the Zambesi near its confluence with the Kafue, They enjoyed a magnificent view from the top of the outer range of hills, A short distance below them was the Kafue, winding its way over a forest-clad plain, while on the other side of the Zambesi lav a long range of dark hills. The plain below abounded in large game. Hundreds of buffalo and zebras grazed on the open spaces, and there stood feeding two majestic elephants, each slowly moving its proboscis. On passing amidst them the animals showed their tameness by standing beneath the trees, fanninf; themselves with their large ears. A number also of red-colored pigs were seen. The people having no guns, they are never disturbed. A night was spent in a huge baobab-tree, which would hold twenty men inside. As they moved on, a herd of buffaloes came strutting up to look at their oxen, and only by shooting one could they be made to retreat. Shortly afterwards a female elephant, with three young ones, charged through the centre of their extended line, when the men, throwing dowL their burdens, retreated in a great hurry, she receiving a spear for he; temerity. They were made aware of their approach to the great river by the vast number of waterfalls which appeared. It was found to be much broader than above the falls : a person might attempt in vain to make his voice heard across it. An immense amount of animal life was .seen both around and in it. Pursuing i^cir down the left bank, they came opposite the island of Menyemakaba, which is about two miles long and a quarter honi the e proba- e of the at Sebit- betweet :ed these enemies I from tht inusuall/ ung ones :s of their old one's ;at being l;s pork. :onfluence :op of the 2, winding : Zambesi rge game, and there proboscis. standing V number , they are )ld twenty ting up to to retreat, s, charged zing dowi ar for he; )y the vast :h broader his voice th around iposite the 1 a quarter o ►J > s ? i ■il (143) ■If:. : if , i il-^' ,1.5:' :■ ■'■ i y'-'i <'■ 'i ■ ,n. • % i- i ,,)■ 144 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ipmif i broad. Besides its human population it supports a herd of sixty buffalo. The comparatively small space to which the animals have confined them- selves shows the luxuriance of the vegetation The only time that the natives can attack them is when the rivei is full and part is flooded : they then assail them from their canoes. Both buffalo and elephants are numerous. To kill them the natives form stages on high trees overhanging the paths by which they come lo the water. From thence they dart down their spears, the blades o which are twenty inches long by two broad, when the motion of the handle, aided by knocking against the trees, makes fearful gashes which soon cause death. They form also a species of trap. A spear inserted in a beam of wood is suspended from the branch of a tree, to which a cord is attached with a latch. The cord being led along the path when struck by the animal's foot, the beam falls, and, the spear being poisoned, death shortly ensues. At each village they passed, two men were supplied to conduct them to the next, and lead them through the parts least covered with jungle. Female Mouths Itcscinbliug- those of Ducks. The villagers were busily employed in their gardens. Most of the men have muscular figures. Their color varies from a dark to a light olive. The women have the extraordinary custom of piercing the upper lip, and gradually enlarging the orifice till a shell can be inserted. The lip appears drawn out beyond the nose, and gives them a very ugly ap- pearance. As Sekwebu remarked : " These women want to make their mouths like those of ducks." The commonest of these rings are made of bamboo, but others are of ivory or metal. When the wearer tries to smile, the contraction of the muscles turns the ring upwards, so that its upper edge comes in front of the eyes, the nose appearing through the middle, while the whole front teeth are exposed by the motion, exhibiting the way in which they have been clipped to resemble the fangs of a cat or a crocodile. On their next halt Seole, the chief of the village, instead of receiving vhem in a friendly way, summoned his followers and prepared for an attack The reason was soon discovered. It appeared that an Italian, who hac married the chief's daughter, having armed a party of fifty slaves with guns, had ascended the river in a canoe from Tete, and attacked several inhabited islands beyond Makaba, taking large numbers of prisoners and much ivory. As he descended again with his booty, his party was dis- persed and he himself was killed while attempting to escape en foot. Seole imacrincd that the doctor was another Italian. )uffalo. [ them- liat the 1 : they natives y come lades O! of the J which inserted which a th when oisoned, jct them unglc. t of the * -) a light he upper id. The ugly ap- ike their ire made r tries to 3 that its 3ugh the xhibiting of a cat receiving an attack who hac aves with ;d several )ners and was dis- e en foot. PI r > 25 H cn n > o H O w > H S CO >• H 5^ i (10) (145) mi «•! siSi: ■)^- :<' ' i 146 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Had not the chief with whom they had previously stayed arrived to exphiin matters, Seole mipht have given them much trouble. Mburuma, another chief of the same tribe, had laid a plan to plunder the party by separating them, but the doctor, suspecting treachery, kept his people together. They had on a previous occasion plundered a party of traders bringing English goods from Mozambique. . Ruins of An Old Towu. On the 14th of January they reached the confluence of the Loangws and the Zambesi. Here the doctor discovered the ruins of a town, with remains of a church in its midst. The situation was well chosen, with lofty hills in the rear and a view of the two rivers in front. On one side of the church lay a broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a cross. This he found was a Portuguese settlement called Zumbo. The conduct of Mburuma and his people gave Livingstone much anxiety, as he could not help dreading that they might attack him thfc next morning. His chief regret was that his efforts for the welfare of the teeming population in that great region would thus be frustrated by sav- ages, of whom it might be said: "They know not what they do." He felt especially anxious that the elevated and healthy district which he had now discovered, stretching towards Tete, should become known. It was such a region as he had been Ic ng in quest of as a centre from which missionary enterpiise might be carried into the surrounding country. While the party were proceeding along the banks of the river, passing through a dense bush, three buffaloes broke through their line. '1 he doctor's ox galloped off, and, as he turned back, he saw one of his men tossed several feet in the air. On returning, to his satisfaction he found that the poor follow had alighted on his face, and, although he had been carried twenty yards on the animal's horns, he had in no way suffered. On the creature's approaching him he had thrown down his load and stabbed it in the side, when it caught him and carried him off before he could escape. Soon after this they had evidence that they were approaching the Por- tuguese settlements, by meeting a person with a jacket and hat on. From this person, who was quite black, they learned that the Portuguese set tlement of Tete was on the other bank of the river, and that the inhabi- tants had been engaged in war with the natives for some time past. This was disagreeable news, as Livingstone wished to be at peace with both parties. As they approached the village of Mpende, that chief sent out his peo- ple to enquire who the travellers were. The natives, on drawing near. ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. 147 ved to jlunder y, kept a party .oangw£ Ntx, with len, with one side a cross. (le much c him the are of the d by sav- do." He ch he had n. It was om which untry. r, passing ine. 1 he ,ne of his ifartion he igh he had in no way down his ;d him off U the For- on. From Lguese set Ithe inhabi- Itime past 3eace with tut his peo- iwing near, uttered strange cries and waved some bright red substance towards them. Having lighted a fire, they threw some charms into it and hastened away, uttering frightful screams, believing that they should thus frighten the strangers and render them powerless. The Makololo, however, laughed at their threats, but the doctor, fully believing that a skirmish would take place, ordered an ox to be killed to feast his men, following the plan Sebituane employed for giving his followers courage. At last * o old men made their appearance and enquired if the doctot was a Bazunga, pr Portuguese. On showing his hair and white skin, they replied: ** Ah, you must be one of the tribe that loves black men." Finally the chief himself appeared, and expressed his regret that he had not known sooner who they were, ultimately enabling them to cross the river. After this they were detained for some time by the rains on the south bank. Meeting with native traders, the doctor purchased some American calico in order to clothe his men. It was marked " I^wrence Mills, Lowell," with two small tusks, an interesting fact. Game laws existed even in this region. His party having killed an elephant, he had to send back a considerable distance to give information to the person in charge of the district, the owner himself living near the Zambesi. Their messenger returned with a basket of corn, a fowl, and a few strings of beads, a thank-offering to them for having killed it. The tusk of the side on which the elephant fell belonged to the owner, while the upper was the prize of the sportsman. Had they begun to cut up the animal before receiving permission they would have lost the whole. The men feasted on their half of the carcass, and for two nights an immense number of hyaenas collected round, uttering their loud laughter. Wonderful Instinct of the Elephant. All travellers in the Tropics are surprised at the remarkable intelli- gence of this animal, and the varied service it can be made to render. An elephant can be trained almost as a child is trained, and appears to know quite as much. We have seen in some of the foregoing pages one side of the elephant's nature in his wild state, but it is only fair to remember his gentleness and fi iendliness in captivity, which is really voluntary, because he might with a blow of his trunk annihilate his keepers and escape to his native jungle. In his long life he often changes his iiioic-, but his allegiance goes too: and he is devoted to each, and figures alike as porter, wood-cutter, errand- boy, hunter, gladiator in fights with tigers, and artillery-man. Says a traveller: I have seen in India, elephants let out by their owners I 1 fh t- 148 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. as choppers, workinpf as day-laborers and returning at night to sleep at home — that is, at their master's. These intelligent animals, armed with long axes, the use of which they have been taught, cut, at otherwise perfectly impracticable heights, the gigantic trees which are used in the keels of vessels, carry them to the nearest port, and deliver them to other elephants to pile — a feat which they accomplish with the greatest regular- ity and with a strength that no number of men can equal. They work ilune, too, without any special oversight on the part of the keeper, who often comes but once a day to note their progress; and yet there is not a case on record where one of them has attempted to return to his free life in the forest, or rejoin his former companions enjoying themselves in the neighboring ravines, while he is working hard on the hills above. Indeed, they grow to hate their untamed cousins, and fight them — and usually successfully — at every opportunity, bearing them away in bondage to their masters, A Grateful Beast. The English have made use of their enormous strength in all the wars in India and, more recently, in Africa, where without them the troops would have been helpless to move the artillery, even the lighter pieces, which these dumb allies carried bravely into action on their backs, while their courage under fire has been attested by special mention in the re- ports from the English ofificers. One of them says : " In our marches across Bengal we used elephants in the baggage train, so well disposed to us that, without waiting for a command from the keeper, if a wagon stuck, one of them would hurry up, put his mighty shoulder to the wheel, and never rest till it was rolling on smoothly again. Then he would return to his own proper place and duty in the line again. One morning, in the press of wagons and animals, one of the elephants was hurt by the heavy wheel of a cart running over his foot. I happened to be near, and bound it up with a towel dipped in camphorated brandy, and tightened the bandage as well as I could, and off he limped to his stable. In the afternoon I went to sec how he was getting on. He wa^ lying on a bed of straw; he recognized me at once, and held out Lis wounded foot for me to see. I renewed the bandage each day; and after diat the grateful animal never passed my tent without a peculiar cry which he used for that occasion alone, and when he met me he always gently rub- bed my back or shoulders with his trunk, uttering little sniffs of pleasure." Major Skinner, of the English Army, vouches for the following story, which shows on the part of the elephant intelligence, memory, comparison, judgment, and good-nature. [eep at d with lervvise 1 in the ;o other egular- ly work »er, who is not a free Ufe is in the Indeed, usually 3 to their the wars le troops er pieces, ks, while in the re- age train, from the is mighty illy again, line again. elephants happened [d brandy, )ed to his He wai Id out liis and aftci cry which lently rub- pleasure." [ing story, )mparison, iiiiklilillillli a49) I i a ' ^C' ; ill ;;' 'i! m 150 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Riding along a very narrow trail near Kandy, in Ceylon, where he hap^- pened to be stationed, he heard the heavy tread of an approaching elephant, uttering discontented grunts which frightened his rather ner- vous horse, and made him rear and plunge. He says : " I soon saw whence these sounds proceeded. A tame elephant had undertaken the difficult task of transporting a long girder, renting on his :usks, over the narrow road. Between the trees on either side there was lot room for this to pass, and he could only advance by turning his head from side to side and avoiding each tree as he went. It was a slow business, and no wonder he complained ; but on seeing how his trumpet- ings frightened my horse, he ceased inr'antly, i ire v down his load, and pressed his hu^ , body close U| agair.s: i'v cj:; > n one .>ide of Lhe road to allow us to pass. My horse trembk •* al; over, and refused to move, seeing which, the elephant drew still fa; ucr b;:rV and tried to en- courage the coward by a gentler note. " Finally the latter plucked up enough heart to dash by on his way, when the faithful elephant resumed the laborious errand in which we had found him engaged. *' This elephant had, before the campaign, been used as a watchman by his owner, whose estates bordered on a river. Marauders would drop down the stream in their craft, and rob the gardens and orchards, and be off again without leaving any trace of their coming than the empty trees and ravaged beds. Tired of losing the fruits of his labor, the owner had trained this elephant to perform sentinel duty along the bank ; and, when danger threatened, the animal would growl like a dog, and filling his huge trunk with water from the stream, would play upon the rascals like a fire-engine, drowning them out of their boats like rats, until they were glad to hoist sail and make off to the best of their ability." How Elephants are Captured. The art of hunting, the elephant, although of most ancient origin, is practiced to-day on a larger scale than ever before, because of the ser- vices which the English have found he can perform for them. As long as elephants were used simply to add splendor to the suite of a rajah, or dignity to one of the religious processions, it sufficed to hunt single animals, capturing them by a decoy elephant ridden by a nati^ e, who provoked and held the attention of the game, while another ran up behind and cleverly passed a chain around one of his legs. Bound in this way the elephant was sure, under the influence of starvation, and the example of his former companions, to yield eventually to his captors. Now the country is divided into " preserves," over which a royal officer m* I ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. 151 is appointed, and immense hunting parties are made up, and whole herds captured at once ; although it is no easy thing to take alive and un wounded an aniniul that has at once such strength and such intelli- gence as the elephant. It could not be done without the aid of other elephants, w':o bring their attachment to their masters to this high point, and having iisted in the capturL-, go still farther and instruct the cap- tives in their "uture dr.ties "ihe trait of obedir mcc is, however, rathet the result of affr -ion than fear, ad in this regard the elephant's docility is more like tl\. of tne dog than of the h jrse. It even leads them to bear the pair* of ihe worst sur^rica^ operations, like the burning out with a hot iron of tumors or ulcers, or the taking of the most bitter medicines at the hands of their " approved good masters." Dangers Ahead. Returning to our narrative, the people inhabiting the country on th' ; side of the Zambesi are known as the Banyai ; their favorite weapon is > huge axe, which is carried over the shoulder. It is used chiefly for h? i- stringing the elephant, in the same way as the Hamran Arab use- Hit sword. The Banyai, however, steals on the animal unawares, while ti. Hamran hunter attacks it when it is rushing in chase of one of his om- rades, who '^allops on ahead on a well trained steed. Those curious birds, the "hon-ey guides," were very attentive to them, and, by their means, the Makololo obtained an abundance of honey. Of the wax, however, in those districts no use appears to be made. Though approaching the Portuguese settlement, abundance of game was still found. The Makololo killed six buffalo calves from among a l^ird which was met with. They were warned by the natives that they ran a great risk of being attacked by lions when wandering on either side of the line of march in search of honey. One of the doctor's head men, indeed, Monahin, hav- ing been suddenly seized with a fit of insanity during the night, left the camp, and as he never returned, it —.s too probable that he was carried off by a lion. This shows the appalling dange»"s attending travel in Africa, another instance of which is here related. As the particulars were vouchsafed by spectators of the drama, it may be relied upon as true. A lion had been pursued, and had taken refuge in a patch of green reeds. This the hunting party surrounded. " We now," says the narrator, " ranged ourselves within pistol-shot of the reeds, taking care to have a clear view all around us ; we then rent the air with deafening shouts, and pierced the brake with numerous bullets. All in 1 It- 1 .■ •' 1 i ■ ! ' . m 1 - i 1- ' 152 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. vain ; the animal remained motionless. The fire which we had originally lighted was now, however, quickly approaching the spot on which all eyes were fixed, and we hoped that it might effect what we had been un- able :o accomplish, when to our great vexation and disappointment, a slight veering of the wind drove tiie flames in another direction. Lion Routed by Flames. "We should now have been fairly baffled if the ingenuity of a nr.tiv-^ had not come to our aid. Collecting a number of dry reeds, with other inflammable matter, and setting fire to the same, this intelligent native seized the fagots at one end, and, running at the top of his speed, hurled the whole lighted mass into the very centre of the lion's hiding place. The effect was almost instantaneous, for in a very few minutes afterward we had the satisfaction of seeing the enemy dash through the flames. It had been prcviou.^ly agreed on that, upon his first appearanc, those who possessed double-barreled guns should fire only one barrel, reserving the other for the charge should he turn upon us. The mere sight, however, of the lion seemed to have frightened several of the party and their bar- /els were indiscriminately fired in every direction, and some even blazed away in the empty air. "On receiving our fire the animal made straight for us, on which every one, with the exception of another and myself, took to his heels. The former gentleman, who had never seen a lion in its wild state, became so terrified that he was unable even to fire or to attempt to make his escape. He remained fixed and motionless on the spot, like one entranced. I had by this time taken a few steps backward, yet without ever averting my eyes from our foe, who, having approached to within a few paces, prepared him.self to make the fatal spring. I had already fired when he burst out of his cover; but one barrel still remained to me, and seeing my friend's imminent danger, I no longer hesitated. Clapping the gun to my shoulder, 1 took a steady aim at the side of his head ; unfortunately just as I pulled the trigger he made a slight movement, and the consequence was that instead of smashing his skull the bullet merely grazed it, passing in the same nanner all along the left side of his body. In the Jaws of the Infuriated Beast. " Quick as thought, the enraged animal left his first intended victim, and turned with a ferocious growl upon me. To escape was impossible. 1 thrust, therefore, no other resource being left me, the muzzle of my gun into the extended jaws of>ened to devour me. In a moment the weapon was demolished. My fate seemed inevitable, when, just at this critical jinally ich ali en un- iient, a L nr.tiv .: w othci : native , hurled g place, terward ncs. It ose wlu) ving tlie jowevcr, heir bar- n blazed cli every Is. The :came .so s escape. 1. 1 had rting my prepared lurst out friend's ihoulder, I pulled was that Ing in the td victim, ipossible. If my gun le weapon lis critical (1^) 154 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. \U juncture, I was unexpectedly rescued. One of my men fiied, and broke the lion's shoulder. He fell, and, taking advantage of this lucky incident, I scampered away at full speed. But my assailant had not yet done with me. Despite his crippled condition he soon overtook me. At that moment T was looking over my shoulder, when, unhappily, a creeper caught my foot and I was precipitated headlong to the ground. In another in- stant the lion had transfixed my right foot with his murderous fangs. Finding, however, my left foot disengaged, I gave the brute a severe kick on the head, which compelled him for a few seconds to suspend his attack. ** He next seized my left leg, on which I repeated the former dose on his head with my right foot; he once more, thereupon, let go his hold, but seized my right foot for a second time. Shortly afterward he drop- ped the foot and grasped my right thigh, gradually working his way up to my hip, where he endeavored to plant his claws. In this he partially succeeded, tearing, in the attempt, my trowsers and body linen, and grazing the skin of my body. Knowing that if he got a firm hold of me here it would surely cost me my life, I quickly seized him by his two ears, and, with a desperate effort, managed to roll him over on his side, which gave me a moment's respite. Hnir-breadth Escape ft'om a Terrible Death. " He next laid hold of my left hand, which he bit through and through, «mashing the wrist, and tearing my right hand seriously. I was now totally helpless, and must inevitably have fallen a speedy victim to his fury- had not prompt assistance been at hand. In my prostrate position I ob- served, and a gleam of hope sprung up, my friend advancing quickly to- ward me. The lion saw him too, and, with one of his paws on my wounded thigh, throwing his ears well back, he crouched, ready to spring at his new assailant. Now, if my friend had fired, in my present position I should have run great risk of being hit by the bullet; I hallooed out to him, therefore, to wait until I could veer my head a little. In time I suc- ceeded, and the next instant I heard the click of a gun, but no report. " Another moment, and a well-directed ball, taking effect in his fore- head, laid the lion a corpse alongside my own bruised and mutilated body. Quick as lightning, I now sprang to my feet, and darted forward toward iTiy companions, whom I saw at no great di.stance. Once or twice I felt excessively faint, but managed, nevertheless, to keep my head up. "No sooner had my companion so successfully finished the lion than he mounted a horse hard by, and galoped off in the direction of our camp. In the meantime I was lifted upon a tame ox, which was led by a man preceding us. At about half-way to our camp two of my men came to ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. 155 broke :ident, e with .t that caught iier in- fangs. ;re kick , attack. Jose on is hold, le drop- way up partially , grazing e here it ars, and. ich gave through, Bvas now 3 his fury- ion I ob- lickly to- on my to spring t position )ed out to me I suc- report. his fore- ited body, d toward wice 1 felt up. 3n than he our camp, by a man n came to meet me, bringing with them, to refresh me, some water and a bottle of eau-dc-cologne. A drinking-cup we had not, but the crown of a wide- awake hat was a good substitute for one, and I drank the mixture of the two liquids greedily off. A few minutes afterward we were met by some of the servants carrying a door. Exchanging then my ox for this more commodious conveyance, I was carefully borne into camp. Up to this time I hau "Stained perfect self-possession, but the moment my wounds vvere washed and dressed I swooned, and for three entire weeks re- mained in a state of complete unconsciousness. I have since per- fectly recovered health, but, as you see, I am totally crippled in my left arm. " I must not omit to mention that my brave dog, although shot through one of his fore-legs, on seeing the lion rush upon me, came forward at the best of his speed, and in his turn sprang upon my grim assailant, and clung desperately to him until my companion's bullet put an end to the combat." Kncounters similar to this are the fate of all travellers in some parts of Africa, and many were Livingstone's narrow escapes upon this journey. It was not till the 2nd of March that the neighborhood of Tete was reached. Livingstone was then so prostrated that, though only eight miles from it, he could proceed no further. He forwarded, however, the letters of recommendation he received in Angola to the commandant. The following morning a company of soldiers with an officer arrived, bringing the materials for a civilized breakfast, and a litter in which to carry him. He felt so greatly revived by the breakfast, that he was able to walk the w hole way. He was received in the kindest way by Major Sicard, the commandant of Tete, who provided also lodging and provision for his men. Tete is a mere village, built on a slope reaching to the water, close to which the fort is situated. There are about thirty European houses; the rest of the buildings, inhabited by the natives, are of wattle and daub. Town Destroyed by Fire. Formerly, besides gold-dusi md ivory, large quantities of grain, coffee, sugar, oil, and indigo were exported from Tete, but, on the establishment of the slave trade, the merchants found a more speedy way of becoming rich, by selling off their slaves, and the plantations and gold washings were abandoned, the laborers having been exported to the Brazils. Many of the white men then followed their slaves. After this a native of Goa, Nyaude by name, built a stockade at the confluence of the Luenya ancj Zambesi, took the commandant of Tete, who attacked him, prisoner, and 156 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. : .1 'mi': sent his son Bonga with a force against that town and burned it. Others followed his example, till commerce, before rendered stagnant by the slavq trade, was totally obstructed. On the north shore of the Zambesi several fine seams of coal exist, which Livingstone examined. The natives only collect gold from the neighborhood wht never they wish to p«u chase calico. On finding a piece or flake of gold, however, they bury it again, believing that it is the seed of gold, and, though knowing its value, prefer losing it rather than, as they suppose, the whole future crop. Livingstone found it necessary to leave most of his men here, and Major Sicard liberally gave them a portion of land that they might culti- vato {•:, supplying them in the mean time with corn. He also allowed the yc.i/-g men to go out and hunt elephants with his servants, that they might purchase goods with the ivory and dry meat, in order that they might take them back with them on returning to their own homes. He also supplied them with cloth. Sixty or seventy at once accepted his offer, delighted with the thoughts of engaging in so profitable an enter- prise. He also supplied the doctor with an outfit, refusing to take the payment which was offered. Hunters in the Bushes. The forests in the neighborhood abound with elephants, and the natives attack them in the boldest manner. Only tvvo hunters sally forth together — one carrying spears, the other an axe of a peculiar shape, with a long handle. As soon as an elephant is discovered, the man with the spears creeps among the bushes in front of it, so as to attract its attention, during which time the a.xe-man cautiously approaches from behind, and, with a sweep of his formidable weapon, severs the tendon of the animal's hock. The huge creature, now unable to move in spite of its strength and sa- gacity falls an easy prey to the two hunters. Among other valuable productions of this country is found a tree allied to the cinchona. The Portuguese believe that it has the same virtues as quinine. As soon as the doctor had recovered his strength he preparer o proceed down the river to Kilimane, or Quillimanc, with sixteen of his faithful Makololo as a crew. Many of the rest were out elephant hunting, while others had established a brisk trade in fire-wood. Major Sicarc! lent him a boat, and sent Lieutenant Miranda to escort him to the coast. On their way they touched at the stockade of the rebel, Bonga, whose son-in-law, Manoel, received them in a friendly way. They next touched at Senna, which was found in a wretchedly ruinouL condition. Here some of the Makololo accepted employment from ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. 157 Eight Lieutenant Miranda to return to Tete with a load of goods, accompanied the doctor, at their earnest request, to Quillimane. He reached that village on the 20th of May, when it wanted but a few- days of being four years since he started from Cape Town. He was hos- pitably received by Colonel Nunes. A severe famine had existed among the neighboring population, and food was very scarce. He therefore advised his men to turn back to Tete as soon as possible, and await his return from England. They still earnestly wished to accompany him, as Sekeletu had advised them not to part with him' till they had reached Ma-Robert, as they called Mrs. Livingstone, and brought her back with them. A Native Bound fur Eiigrlaiid. With the smaller tusks he had in his possession he purchased calico and brass wire, which he sent back to Tete for his followers, depositing the remaining twenty tusks with Colonel Nunes, in order that, should he be prevented from visiting the country, it might not be supposed that he had made away with Sekeletu's ivory. He requested Colonel Nunes, in case of his death, to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to his men, intending to purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in England with his own money, and, on his return, repay himself out of the price of the ivory. He consented, somewhat unwillingly, to take Sekwcbu with him to England. After waiting about six weeks at Quillimane, the brig " Frolic " ar- rived, on board which he embarked. A fearful sea broke over the bar, and the brig wa^ rolling so much that there was great difficulty in reaching her deck. Poor Sekwebu looked at his friend, asking : " Is this the way you go ? " The doctor tried to encourage him ; but, though well ac- quainted with canoes, he had never seeri anything like it. Having been three and a half years, with the exception of a short interval in Angola, without speaking English, and for thirteen but par- tially using it, the doctor found the greatest difficulty in expressing him- self on board the " Frolic." The brig sailed on the I2th of July for the Mauritius, which was reached 'on the 1 2th of August. Poor Sekwebu had become a favorite both with men and officers, and was gaining some knowledge of English though all he saw had apparently affected his mind. The sight of a steamer, which came out to tow the brig into the harbor, so affected him that during the night he became insane and threatened to throw himself into the water. By gentle treatment he became calmer, and Livingstone tried to get him on shore, but he refused to go. In the evening his malady m ;> " i'C ^\ ? { iff^ 158 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. returned ; and, after attempting to spear one of the crew, he leaped over- board and, pulling himself down by the chain cable, disappeared. The body of poor Sekwebu was never found. After remaining some time at the Mauritius, till he hadVecovered from the effects of the African fever, '^ur enterprising traveller sailed by way of the Red Sea for old England, which he reached on the 1 2th of December. 1856. Dr. Livingstone, in the series of journeys which have been described, had already accomplished more than any previous traveljer in Africa, besides having gained information of the greatest value as regards both mission- ary and mercantile enterprise. He had as yet, however, performed only a small portion of the great work his untiring zeal and energy prompted him to undertake. Livingstone's visit to England was one of great interest to himself and to the general public. Multitudes had followed his career in the Dark Continent, had journeyed with him in all his wanderings, had shared in imagination his sufferings and victories, and were ready to gr-eet him with enthusiasm upon his return. To the Christian public the Dark Continent presented itself as a missionary field; to the commercial public the same continent presented itself as a mart for business and a market for trade. Thus the interest awakened by the great explorer's discover- ies in the far land was almost universal. Livingstone was a renowned charactt;r, was invited to participate in various public meetings, was sought after by men of celebrity, was a kind of social lion throughout the country, while high hopes were entertained of future exploits, and free offers of support constantly poured in upon him. The value of his discoveries can never be estimated. It will take many ages to fully understand what was attempted by this one man and what was achieved. He may be considered as a benefactor of his race; while devoted to exploration and scientific discovery, he took a higher view of his mission. The fact that the benighted continent of Africa has within the last few years been brought into close relations with the civilized i>art< of the world will form the brightest page in modern histoiy. CHAPTER VIII. AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. Fresh Start for a Long Exploring Tour — An English Steamer in African Waten* Battle between the Portuguese and a Savage Chief— Rescue of the Governor— The " Ma-Robert " Commences Her Voyage — Astonishment of the Naiives— Hardships of Travelling in the Tropics — A Swift Cataract— The Murchinson Falls — A Chief Loses His Little Girl — Natives Obstructing the Expedition- Searching for a Great Lake — Pursued by a BufTalo — Trap for the Hippopota- mus—Failure to Recover the Lost Child — Singular Ideas of Female Beauty— Fear- ful Cry from the River — A Native's Deadly Combat with a Crocodile — Monsters Hatched from Eggs— Discovery of the Great Lake— Scarcity of Water — Return of the " Ma Robert " — A Conspicuous Fraud — Hostile Chief Conciliated — Abun- dance of Game and Numerous Lions — Sketch of the Batoka Tribe— Peculiar Fashion of Wearing the Hair — Masters of the Canoe— Perils among Breakers — Very Polite Savages— Singular Customs and Ceremonies— Fearless Hunters— Na- tive Belit f in a Future Existence — Melodious Sounds of Music -African Poets- Incorrigible Liars — Put to Death for Bewitching a Chief— Gang of Cattle Steal- ers — Adventure with a River Horse— Man Saved on a Rock — Tropical Chame- leon—A Marveleous Reptile — Shifiing Colors — Seized by a Crocodile— Horse and Rider Terribly Wounded. aFTER spending rjather more than a year in England, Dr. Living- stone again set out, on the lot.'- of March 1858, on board Her Majesty's Ship " Pearl," at the hcA'! of a government expedition for the purpose of exploring the Zambesi and neighboring regions. He was accompanied by Dr. Kirk, his brother Charles Livingstone, and Mr. Thornton ; and Mr. T. Baines was appointed artist to the expedition. A small steamer, which was called the " Ma Robert," in compliment to Mrs. Livingstone, was provided by the government for the navigation o' the river. The East Coast was reached in May. Running up the river I.uawe, supposed to be a branch of the Zambesi, the " Pearl " came to an anchor, and the " Ma-Robert," which had been brought out in sections, was screwed together. The two vessels then went together in search of the real mouth of the river, from which Quillimane is some sixty miles Jistant, the Portuguese having concealed the real entrance, if they were acquainted with it, in order to deceive the English cruisers in search ol slavers. The goods for the expedition brought out by the " Pearl " having been landed on a grassy island about forty miles from thf, bar, that vessel sailed for Ceylon, while the little " Ma- Robert" was left to pursue her course (159) t i llilv V im 160 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. alone. Her crew consisted of about a dozen Krumen and a few Europeans. At Mazaro, the mouth of a creek communicating with the Quillimane or Kilimane River, the expedition heard that the Portuguese were at war with a half-caste named Mariano, a brother of Bonga, who had built a stockade near the mouth of the Shire, and held possession of all the inter- mediate country. He had been in the habit of sending out his armed bands on slave-hunting expeditions among the helpless tribes to the north- west, selling his victims at Quillimane, where they were shipped as free emigrants to the French island of Bourbon. An Inhuman Monster. As long as his robberies and murders were restricted to the natives at a distance, the Portuguese did not interfere, but when he began to carry off and murder the people near them, they thought it time to put a stop to his proceedings. They spoke of him as a rare monster of inhumanity. He frequently killed people with his own hand in order to make his name dreaded. Having gone down to Quillimane to arrange with the governor, or, in other words, to bribe him, Colonel De Silva put him in prison and sent him for trial to Mozambique. The war, however, was continued under his brother Bonga, and had stopped all trade on the river. The expedition witnessed a battle at Mazaro, between Bonga and the Portuguese, when Livingstone, landing, found himself in the sickening smell and among the mutilated bodies of the slain. He brought off the governor, who was in a fever, the balls whistling about his head in all directions. The Portuguese then escaped to an island opposite Shupanga, where, having exhausted their ammunition, they were compelled to remain. There is a one-storied house at Shupanga, from which there is a mag- nificent view down the river. Near it is a large baobab-tree, beneath which, a few years later, the remains of the beloved wife of Dr. Living- stone were to repose. On the 17th of August the "Ma-Robert" commenced her voyage up the stream for Tete. It was soon found that her furnaces being badly constructed, and that from other causes she was ill-adapted for the work- before her. She quickly, in consequence, obtained the name of the "Asthmatic." Senna, which was visited on the way, being situated on low ground, is a fe''... -giving place. The steamer, of course, caused great astonishment to ihc jteople. who assembled in crowds to witness her movements, whirling ratind their arms to show the way the paddles revolved. > > H r 3: > > C Tete was reached o-^ tV " 8t.b of 3t p. ember No sooner did Living- the , all inga, nain. lag- ath kie Ivmg- rc up jadly I work If the id on lused litncss Iddlcs ,-sai^^ Iving- 11 (len i! ;!>• f i ii 162 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. stone go on shore, than his Makololo rushed down to the water's edge, and manifested the greatest joy at seeing him. Six of the young men had foolishy gone off to make money by dancing before some of the neighboring chiefs, when they fell into the hands of Bonga, v no, de- claring that they had brought witchcraft medicine to kill him, put them all to death. Hardships of Overland Travel. The Portuguese at this place keep numerous slaves, whom they treat with tolerable humanity. When they can they purchase the whole of a family, thus taking away the chief inducement for running off. The expedition having heard of the Kebrabasa Falls, steamed up the river to Panda Mokua, where the navigation ends, about two miles below them. Hence the party started overland, by a frightfully rough path among rocky hills, where no shade was to be found. At last their guides declared that they could go no further ; indeed, the surface of the ground was so hot that the soles of the Makololos* feet became blistered. The travellers, however, pushed on. Passing round a steep pro.nontory, they beheld the river at their feet, the chaniicl jammed in between two moun- tains with perpendicular sides, and less than fifty yards wide. There is a sloping full of about twenty feet in height, and another at a distance of thirty yards above it. When, however, the river risc3 upwards of eighty feet perpendicularly, as it does in the rainy season, the cataract might be passed in boats. After returnmg to Teto, the steamer went up the Shire, January, 1859. The natives, as tiiey passed them, collected at their villages in large num- bers, armed with bows and poisoned arrows, threatening to attack them Liv ^igstone, however, went on shore, and .explained to the chief, Tingane, that they had come neither to take slaves 'lor to fight, but wished to open up a path by which his countryman could ascend to purchase their cot- ton. On this Tingane at once became fri^^ndly. Mag-nificeut Cataract. Their progress was arrested, after steaming up a hundred miles in a straight line, although, counting the windings of the river, double ihat distance, by magnificent cataracts known to the natives as those of the Mamvira, but called by the expedition the Murchison Falls. Rain pre- vented them making observations, and they returned at a rapid rate down the river. A second trip up it was made in March of the same year. They here gained the frient'ship of Chibisa, a shrewd and intelligent chief, whose village was about ten miles below the cataracts. He told the doctor that AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESF 163 s edge, ng men ". of the no, de- nt them ley treat lole of a ;d up the [es below jgh path :ir guides le ground •ed. The tory, they ivo moun- rhcre is a listance of of eighty might be |ary, 1859. jge num- ick them. [, Tingane, :d to open their cot- liles in a Duble that lose of the JRain pre- Irapid rate Ixhey here lief, whose ioctor that B few years before his little daughter was kidnapped, and was now a slave to the padre at Tele, asking him, if possible, to ransom the child. From this point Drs. Livingstone and Kirk proceeded on foot in a northerly direction to I^ke Shirwa. The natives turned out from theii villages, sounding notes of defiance on their drums ; but the efforts to |)ersuade them that their visitors came as friends were successful, and the lake was discovered on the i8th of April. From having no oiitiet, the water is brackish, with hilly islands rising out of it. The country arouiui appeared very beautiful and clothed with rich vegetation, with lofty mountains eight thousand feet high near the eastern shore. 1 hey returned to Tete in June, and thence, after the steamer had been repaired, proceeded to the Kongone, where they received provisions from Her Majesty's Ship " Persian," which also took on board their Krumen, as they were found useless for land journeys. In their stead a crew was picked out from the Makololo, who soon learned to work the ship, and who, besides being good travellers, could cut wood and require only native food. Searchiiijir tor a Great Lake. Frequent showers fell on their return voyage up the Zambesi, and the vessel being 'eaky, the cabin was constantly flooded, both fro i shove and below. They were visited on their way up by Paul, a relative of the rebel Mariano, who had just returned from Mozambique. He told them that the Portuguese knew nothing of the Kongone before they had dis- covered it, always supposing that the Zambesi entered the sea at Quill i- mane. A second trip up the Shire was performed in the middle of August, when the two doctors set out in search of I^ke Nyassa, about which they had heard. The river, though narrow, is deeper than the Zambesi, and more easily navigated. Marks of large game were seen, and one of the Makololo, who had jjone on shore to cut wood, was suddenly charged at by a solitary buffalo. He took to flight, pursued by the maddened animal, and was scarcely six feet before the creature when he reached the bank and sprang into the river. On both banks a number of hippopotamus-traps were seen. The animal feeds on grass alone, its enormous lip acting like a mow- ing machine, forming a path before it as it feeds. Over these paths the natives construct a trap, consisting of a heavy beam, five or six feet long witii a spcar-head at one end, covered with poison. This weapon is hung to a forked pole by a rope which leads across the path, and is held by a catch, set free as the animal treads upon it. A hippopotamus was seen which, being frightened by the s* "^nicr, rushed on shore and ran imme- •'4 ■■ p't-i m i JfU WONDERS OP THE TROPICS. I ?■ m I' % 'f. diatcly under one of these traps, when down came vhe heavy beam on his head. The leaks in the steamer increased till the cabin became scarcely hab- itable. The nei<;hborhood of Chibisa's village wa.s reached late in August. Failure to Recover a Kidnapped Child. The doctor had now to send word to the chief that his attempts to recover his child had failed, for, though he had offered twice the value of a slave, the little girl could not be found, the padre having sold her to a distant tribe of Bazizulu. Though this padre was better than the average, he appeared very indifferent about the matter. On the 28th of August, an expedition consisting of four whites, thirty- ix Makololo, and two guides left the ship in hopes of discovering Lake Nyassa. The natives on the road were very eager to trade. As soon is they found that the strangers would pay for their provisions in cotton cloth, women and girls were set to grind and pound meal, and the men and boys were seen chasing screaming fowl over the village. A head man brought some meal and other food for sale ; a fathom of blue cloth was got out, when the MakoloU) head man, thinking a portion was enough, was procee ling to tear it. On this the native remarked that it was a pi } to c'lt r>u 1; a nice dress for his wife, and he would rather bring more meal. " All right," . ; ul the Makololo, " but look, the cloth is very wide, so see that the basket which carries the meal be wide too, and add a chicken to make the meal taste nicely." The highland women of these regions all wear X\\e peleie, or lip-ring, before described. An old chief, vi Irrn asked why such things were worn, replied: "For beauty; men have beards and whiskers, women have none. What kind of creature would a woman be without whiskers and without the pelele .? " •* The Fearful Cry from the Hlvcr." When, as they calculated, they were a day's march from Lake Nyassa, thechief of the village assuied them positively that no lake had ever been heard of there, and that the river Shire stretched on, as they saw it, to a distance of two months, and then came out between two rocks which towered to the skies. The Makololo looked blank, and proposed return- ing to the ship. " Never mind," said the doctor, " we will go on and sco these wonderful rocks." Their head man, Massakasa, declared that there must be a lake, because it was in the white men's books, and scolded the natives fur speaking a falsehood. They then admitted that there was a lake. The chief brought them a present in the evening. Scarcely had Jhe gone AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. ]65 im on ^ hab- ugust. ipts to alue of :r to a /erage, thirty- f Lake soon IS cotton ;he men :ad man )th was enough, it was a ig more ry wide, 1 add a lip-ring, re worn, :n have lers and iNyassa, /er been it, to a whicli return- 1 and SCO a lake, tivcs for le. The le gone when a fearful cry arose from the river ; a crocodile had carried off his principal wife The Makololo, seizing their arms, rushed to the rescue; but it was too late. Many of the natives show great coMrage and skill in capturing these formidable monsters which infest the rivers of Africa. The following graphic narrative by a traveller connected with an exploring party in the Tropics relates the manner in which the natives sometimes take their prey. " You come and see Igubo kill de crocodile," 1 heard Timbo say t' Leo "IGUBO TLUNGED HIS KNIFE INTO THE MONSTER's SIDE." and Natty. These were names of natives accompanying our expedition. Ii^ubo had provided himself with a piece of one of the animals which h ^ had brought home, and which had become no longer eatable. He had fastened it to the end of a long rope, and his sons carried it down to til!* water. Timbo and Leo, with the two bovs, set off after them ; and, taking my rifle, I followed to see what would happen. On reaching the river, Igubo threw in the meat as far as he could, fas- tening the end of the rope to the trunk of a tree. Then, on his making a sign to us to hide ourselves, we retired behind some bushes. In a .short time the rope was violently tugged, and Igubo, throwing off his scanty B' i;i|j; i 1 m H : 1 < * ''^ I' l(i6 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. garments, drew his sharp knife from its sheath, and sprang into the M^fiter. I could not refraim from crying out, and entreating him to come back; but he paid no heed to me, and swam on. Close Combat with a Crocodile. Presently he disappeared, and I felt horror-struck at the thought that a crocodile had seized him; but directly afterwards the snout of the huge monster appeared above the water, Igubo rising at the same time directly behind it. The creature, instead of attempting to turn, made towards the bank, at a short distance off. Igubo followed ; and I saw his hand raised, and his dagger descend into the side of the crea- ture. Still the crocodile did not attempt to turn, but directly after- wards reaching the bank, climbed up it. Igubo followed, and again plunged his knife into the monster's side. Flvery instant I expected to see him seized by its terrific jaws ; but the creature seemed terror-stricken, and made no attempt at defence. Again mid a^ain the black plunged in his knife, while the crocodile vainly endeavored to escape. The next instant Igubo was on its back, and the creature lay without moving. A few minutes only had passed. It opened its vast jaws, each time more languidly than before, till at length it sank down, and, after a kw struggles, was evidently dead. Igubo, springing up, flourished his knife over his head in triumph. Leo, running to the canoe, began to launch it. We all jumped in, and pad- dled off to the bank, Timbo bringing the rope with him. We fastened it round the crocodile's neck, and towed the body in triumph to the shore, up which we hauled it. Strniij^e Crcatiiren Hatched from Kggn, " Igubo say we find eggs not far off," said Timbo, as if doubting it. Natty and his brother, at a sign from their father, began at once hunting about, and in a short time called us to them. There was a large hole in the bank concealed by overhanging bushes. It was full of eggs, about the size of those of a goose. On counting them we found no less than sixty. The shell was white and partially elastic, both ends being exactly the same size. The nest was about four yards from the water. A. pathway led up to it ; and Igubo told Timbo, that after the crocodile has deposited her eggs, she covers them up with about four feet of earth, and returns afterwards to clear it away, and to assist the young out of the shells. After this, she leads them to the water, where she leaves them to catch small fish for themselves. At a little distance was another nest, from which the inmates had just been set free ; and on a sandbank a little way down we caught sight of a AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. 167 nunn^Ci of the little monsters crawling about. They appeared in r way afraid of us as we approached, and Natty and his brother speared several. They were about ten inches long, with yellow eyes, the pupil being merely a perpendicular slit. They were marked with transverse stripes of pale green and brown, about half an inch in width. Savage little monsters they were, too ; for though their teeth were but partly developed, they tinned round and bit at the weapon darted at them, uttering at the same lime a sharp welp like that of a small puppy when it first tries to bark, l^ubo could not say whether the mother crocodile eats up her young occasionally, though, from the savage character of the creature, I should think it very likely that she does, If pressed by hunger. As it is well known, the ichneumon has the reputation on the banks of the Nile of killing young crocodiles ; but Igubo did not know whether tiiey ever do so in his part of the world. He and his boys collected all the eggs they could find, declaring that they were excellent for eating. They however told us that they should only consume the yolk, as the wiiite of the egg does not coagulate. When it is known what a vast number of eggs a crocodile lays, it may be supposed that the simplest way of getting rid of the creatures is to destroy them before they arc hatched. It would seem almost hopeless to attempt to exterminate them by killing only the old ones. However, I fancy they have a good many enemies, and that a large number of the young do not grow up. As we were walking along the bank, we saw, close to the water, a young crocodile ju.st making his way into it; and Mango, leaping down, captured the little creature. Even then it showed its disposition by at- tempting to bite his fingers. On examining it, we found a portion of yolk almo.st the size of a hen's egg fastened by a membrane to the abdomen, which was doubtless left there as a supply of nourishment, to enable the creature to support existence till it was strong enough to catch fish for itself Igubo declared that they caught the fish by moans of their broad scaly tails. The eggs, I should say, had a strong internal membrane, and a small quantity only of lime in their composition. We had some difficulty in inducing our friends to believe the account ve gave them of Igubo's exploit. He however undertook, if they were not satisfied, to kill a crocodile in the same way another day. Livingstone Discovers Lake Nyassa. The expedition moving forward, on the l6th of September, 1859, the long-looked-for Lake Nyassa was discovered, with hills rising on both sides of it. Two months after this the lake was visited by Dr. Roscher, t>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1^ 2.2 I.I Ui l{2|0 1.8 1.25 U 11.6 // ^ tf> Photographic Sdences Corporation S^;^ K^' V^ :\ \ " 'is. ■<^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 172-4503 '<*>'■ I V 1 ) fvtl r. U i.ii ml m lit-!' ^ * '1 , 168 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. who was unaware of Drs. Livingstone and Kirk's discovery ; unhappily he was murdered on his road back towards the Rovuma. The travellers were now visited by the chief of a village near the con- fluence of tlie lake and the river, who invited them to form their camp under a magnificent banyan-tree, among the roots of which, twisted into the shape of a gigantic arm-chair, four of the party slept. The chief told them that a slave party, led by Arabs, was encamped near at hand; and in the evening a villainous set of fellows, with long muskets, brought several young children for sale ; but, finding that the travellers were English, Ithey decamped, showing signs of fear. The people of the Manganja tribe, amidst whom they were now travelling, showed much suspicion of thejif object, saying that parties had come before with the same sort of plau*it>le story, and had suddenly carried off a number of their people. To a'Uaf these suspicions, Livingstone thought it best at once to return to the s})ip. Soon at'ierwards Dr. Kirk and Mr. Rae, the engineer, set off with guides to go across the country to Tete, the distance being about one hundred mile*. From want of water they suffered greatly, while the tse/se infested the district. Livingstone h,ad resolved to visit his old friend Sekeletu; but, finding that before the new crop came in, food could not be obtained beyond the Kebrabasa, he returned m the " Ma- Robert " once more to the Kongone. They found Major Sic.ard at Mazaro, he having come there with tools and slaves to build a custom-house and fort. A BAre-faced Fraud. After this trip, the poor " Asthmatic " broke down completely ; she was therefore laid alongside the island of Kanyimbe, opposite Tete, end placed under the charge of two English sailors. They were furnished with a supply of seeds to form a garden, both to afford them occupation and food. Active preparations were now made for the intended journey westward; cloth, beads, and brass wire were formed into packages, with the bearers name printed on each. The Makololos who had been employed by the expedition received their wages. Some of those who had remained at Tete had married, and resolved to continue where they were. Others did not leave with the same good will they had before exhibited, and it was doubtful, if attacked, whether they would not run to return to their lately formed friends. All arrangements had been concluded by the 15th of May, i860, and to AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. 169 igone. tools itward; jearers jceived larried, re with )ubtful, Iforme'l the journey was commenced. As the Banyai, who live on the right bank, were said to levy heavy fines, the party crossed over to the left. Livingstone was stopping near the Kebrabasa village, when a man ap- peared, who pretended that he was a poruioro; that is, that he could change himself into a lion whenever he chose — a statement his country- men fully believed. Sometimes the pondoro hunts for the benefit of the villagers, when his wife takes him some medicine which enables him to change himself back to a man. She then announces what game has been killed, and the villagers go into the forrest to bring it home. The people believe also that the souls of the departed chiefs enter into lions. One night, a buffalo having been killed, a lion came close to the camp, when the Makololo declared that he was a pondoro, and told him that he ought to be ashamed of himself for trying to steal the meat of strangers. The lion, however, disregarding their addresses, only roared louder than ever, though he wisely kept outside the bright circle of the camp-fires. A little strychnine was placed on a piece of meat and thrown to him, after which he took his departure, and was never again seen. A Hostile Cliief Conciliated. Again passing Kebrabasa, the travellers enjoyed the magnificent moun- tain scenery in this neighborhood, and came to the conclusion that not only it, but the Morumbwa could, when the river rises, be passed, so as to allow of a steamer being carried up to run on the upper Zambesi. On the 20th of June they reached the territory of the chief Mpende, who had, on Livingstone's journey to the East Coast, threatened to attack him. Having in the mean time heard that he belonged to a race who love black men, his conduct was nowcompletely changed, and he showed every desire to be friendly. Game was abundant, and lions were especi- ally numerous. After visiting Zumbo, Dr. Kirk was taken dangerously ill. He got better on the high ground, but immediately he descended into the valley he always felt chilly. In six days, however, he was himself again, and able to march as well as the rest. Again abundance of honey was ob- tained through the means of the " honey guide." The bird never de- ceived them, always guiding them to a hive of bees, though sometimes there was but little honey in it. On the 4th of August the expedition reached Moachemba, the first of the Batoka villages, which owe allegiance to Sekeletu. From thence, beyond a beautiful valley, the columns of vapor rising from the Victoria Falls, upwards of twenty miles away, could clearly be distinguished. At the village opposite Kalai the Malokolo head man, Mashotlane, :■ 1 170 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. if,,' paid the travellers a visit. He entered the hut where they were seated, a little boy carrying a three-legged stool. In a dignified way the chief took his seat, presenting some boiled hippopotamus meat. Having then taken a piece himself, he handed the rest to his followers. He had lately been attacking the Batoka, and when the doctor represented to him the wrongfulness of the act he defended himself by declaring that they had killed some of his companions. Here also they found Pitsane, who had been sent by Sekeletu to purchase horses from a band of Griquas. Famous Batoka Tribe. A description of the Batokas will be of interest in this connection. There are two distinct varieties ; of whom those living on low-lying sands such as the banks of the Zambesi, are very dark, while those of the higher lands are light brown. Their character seems to differ with their com- plexions, the former variety being dull, stupid, and intractable, while the latter are comparatively intellectual. They do not improve their personal appearance by an odd habit ot depriving themselves of their upper incisor teeth. The want of these teeth makes the corresponding incisors of the lower jaw project outward, and force the lip with them ; so that even in youth they all have an aged expression of countenance. Knocking out these teeth is part of i ceremony which is practiced on both sexes when they are admitted into the ranks of men and women, and is probably the remains of some religious rite. The reason which they give is absurd enough, namely, that they like to resemble oxen, which have no upper incisors, and not to have all their teeth like zebras'. It is probable, however, that this state- ment may be merely intended as an evasion of questions which they think themselves bound to parry, but which may also have reference to the extreme veneration for oxen which prevails in the African's mind. In spite of its disfiguring effect, the custom is universal among the various sub-tribes of which the Batoka are composed, and not even the definite commands of the chief himself, nor the threats of punishment, could induce the people to forego it. Girls and lads would suddenly make their appearance without their teeth, and no amount of questioning could induce them to state when, and by whom, they were knocked out. Fourteen or fifteen is the usual age for performing the operation. Hair Done Up in Style. Their dress is a little remarkable, especially the mode in which some of them arrange their hair. The hair on the top of the head is drawn and plastered together in a circle some six or seven inches in diameter. By dint of careful training, and plenty of grease and other appliances, it is AFRICAN CHIEF WITH SHIELD AND WAR-CLUB. (171) i ■ <} !■.*! I, •V' ,1 l.li !| ;i > *• -,■:'• If M m m 81 :> ■;!;■ 4 172 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. at last formed into a cone some eight or ten inches in height, and slightly leaning forward. In some cases the cone is of wonderful height, the head man of a Batoka village wearing one which was trained into a long spike that projected a full yard from his head, and which must have caused him considerable inconvenience. In this case evidently other materials were freely mixed with the hair ; and it is said that the long hair of various animals is often added, so as to mingle with the real growth, and aid in raising the edifice. Around the edges of this cone the hair is shaven closely, so that the appearance of the head is very remarkable, and somewhat ludicrous. One of this tribe named Mantanyani accompanied Dr. Livingstone. He was a singularly skilful boatman, and managed an ordinary whaling boat as easily as one of his own canoes. The ornament which he wears in his hair is a comb made of bamboo. It was not manufactured by him- self, but was taken from Shimbesi's tribe on the Shire, orSheereh River. He and his companions forced the boat up the many rapids, and, on being interrogated as to the danger, he said that he had no fears, for he could swim like a fish, and that, if by any mischance he should allow Mr. Baines to fall overboard and be drowned, he should never dare to show his face to Livingstone again. Mr. Baines remarks in his notes, that Mantanyani ought to have made a good sailor, for he was not only an adept at the management of boats, but could appreciate rum as well as any British tar. It so happened that at night, after the day's boating was over, grog was served out to the men, and yet for two or three nights Mantanyani would not touch it. Accord- ingly one night the following colloquy took place : — " Mantanyani, non quero grog ?" (That is, cannot you take grog ?) " Non quero." (I cannot.) " Porquoi non quero grog ?" (Why cannot you take grog ?) " Garafifa poco, Zambesi munta." (The bottle is little and the Zambesi is big.) The hint was taken, and rum unmixed with water was offered tc Man- tanyani, who drank it off like a sailor. Xo Talking nor Whistling- Allowed. A spirited account of the skill of the natives in managing canoes is given by Livingstone in " The Zambesi and its Tributaries." The oanoe belonged to a man named Tuba-Mokoro, or the " Canoe-smasher," a rather ominous, but apparently undeserved title, inasmuch as he proved to be a most skilful and steady boatman. He seemed almost to be modest, for he took no credit to himself for his management, but attributed his )besi lan- )es IS moe roved )dest, td his AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. 173 success entirely to a certain charm or medicine which he had, and which he kept a profound secret. He was employed to take the party through the rapids to an island close to the edge of the great Smoke Sounding Falls, now called the Victoria Falls. This island can only be reached when the water happens to be very low, and, even in that case, none but the most experienced boatmen can venture so near to the Fall, which is double the depth of Niagara, and a mile in width, formed entirely by a vast and sudden rift in the basaltic bed of the Zambesi. Before entering the race of water, we were requested not to speak, as our talking might diminish the value of the medicine, and no one with such boiling, eddying rapids before his eyes would think of disobeying the orders of a " canoe-smasher." It soon became evident that there was sound sense in the request of Tuba, though the reason assigned was not unlike that of the canoe man from Sesheke, who begged one of our party not to whistle, because whistling made the wind come. It was the duty of the man at the bow to look out ahead for the proper course, and, when he saw a rock or a snag, to call out to the steersma*. Tuba doubtless thought that talking on board might divert the attention of his steersman at a time when the neglect of an order, or a slight mis- take, would be sure to spill us all into the chafing river. There were places where the utmost exertions of both men had to be put forth in order to force the canoe to the only safe part of the rapid and to prevent it from sweeping broadside on, when in a twinkling we should have found ourselves among the plotuses and cormorants which are engaged in ciiv- ing for their breakfast of small fish. «* We Struck Hard." At times it seemed as if nothing could save us from dashing in our headlong race against the rocks, which, now that the river was low, jutted out of the water; but, just at the very nick of time. Tuba passed the word to the steersman, and then, with ready pole, turned the canoe a little aside, and we glided swiftly past the threatened danger. Never was canoe more admirably managed. Once only did the medicine seem to have lost something of its efficacy. We were driving swiftly down, a black rock over which the white foam flew lay directly in our path, the pole was planted against it as readily as ever, but it slipped just as Tuba put forth his strength to turn the bow oflf. We struck hard, and rere half full ol water in a moment. Tuba recovered himself as speedily, shoved off the bow, and shot the canoe into a still, shallow place, to bail the water out. He gave us to understand that it was not the medicine which was at fault — that had lost I! n''" M •f m^ ■i f' ) 174 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. none of its virtue ; the accident was owing to Tuba having started with- out his breakfast. Need it be said that we never let Tuba go without that meal again. Among the Batokas is a body of men called in their own language the Go-nakeds. These men never wear an atom of any kind of clothing, but are entirely naked, their only coat being one of red ochre. These, Go-nakeds are rather a remarkable set of men, and why they should voluntarily live without clothing is not very evident. Some travellers think that they are a separate order among the Batoka, but this is not at all certain. It is not that they are devoid of vanity, for they are extremely fond of ornaments upon their heads, which they dress in various fa itastic ways. The conical style has already been mentioned, but they have many other fashions. One of their favorite modes is, to plait a fillet of bark, some two inches wide, and tie it round the head in diadem fashion. They then rub grease and red ochre plentifully into the hair, and fasten it to the fillet, which it completely covers. The head being then shaved as far as the edge of the fillet, the native looks as if he were wearing a red, polished forage-cap. Rings of iron wire and beads are worn round the arms; and a fash- ionable member of this order thinks himself scarcely fit for society unless he carries a pipe and a small pair of iron tongs, with which to lift a coal from the fire and kindle his pipe, the stem of which is often ornamented by being bound with polished iron wire. Very Polite Savagres. The Go-nakeds seem to be as devoid of the sense of shame as their bodies are of covering. They could not in the least be made to see that they ought to wear clothing, and quite laughed at the absurdity of such an idea; evidently looking on a proposal to wear clothing much as we should entertain a request to dress ourselves in plate armor. The pipe is in constant requisition among these men, who are seldom seen without a pipe in their mouths, and never without it in their posses sion. Yet, whenever they came into the presence of their white visitors, they always asked permission before lighting their pipes, an innate politeness being strong within them. Their tobacco is exceedingly powerful, and on that account is much valued by other tribes, who will travel great distances to purchase it from the Batoka. It is also i^ery cheap, a few beads purchasing a sufficient quantity to last even these inveterate smokers for six months. Their mode of smoking is very peculiar. They first take a whiff after the usual manner, and puff out the smoke. But, when they have expelled AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. 175 neaHy the whole of the smoke, they make a kind of catch at the last tiny wreath, and swallow it. This they are pleased to consider the very essence or spirit of the tobacco, which is lost if the smoke is exhaled in the usual manner. The Batoka are a polite people in their way, though they have rather an odd method of expressing their feelings. The ordinary mode of sal- utation is for the women to clap their hands and produce that undulating sound which has already been mentioned, and for the men to stoop and clap their hands on their hips. But, when they wish to be especially respectful, they have another mode of salutation. They throw them- selves on their backs, and roll from side to side, slapping the outside of their thighs vigorously, and calling out " Kina-bomba! kina-bomba !" with great energy, which has already been described. Livingstone says, • that he never could accustom his eyes to like the spectacle of great naked men wallowing on their backs and slapping themselves, and tried to stop them. They, however, always thought that he was not satisfied with the heartiness of their reception, and so rolled about and slapped themselves all the more vigorously. This rolling and slapping seems to be reserved for the welcoming of great men, and, of course, whenever the Batoka present themselves before their chief, the performance is doubly vigorous. Blacks who Stand on Ceremony. When a gift is presented, it is etiquette for the donor to hold the present in one hand, and to slap the thigh with the other, as he approaches the person to whom he is about to give it. He then delivers the gift, claps his hands together, sits down, and then strikes his thighs with both hands. The same formalities are observed when a return gift is presented ; and so tenacious are they of this branch of etiquette, that it is taught regularly to children by their parents. They are an industrious people, cultivating wonderfully large tracts of land with the simple but effective hoe of their country. With this hoe, which looks something like a large adze, they not only break up the ground, but perform other tasks of less importance, such as smoothing the earth as a foundation for their beds. Some of these fields are so large, that the traveller may walk for hours through the native corn, and scarce- ly come upon an uncultivated spot. The quantity of corn which is grown is very Jarge, and the natives make such numbers of granaries, that their villages seem to be far more populous than is really the case. Plenty, in consequence, reigns among this people. But it is a rather remarkable fact that, in spite of the vast quantities of grain, which they produce, they cannot keep it in store. ' if* 1 ' ; pite of 1 either veet in ivellers plump simply trees — )lessed, |sts, and •ough a itions to |r hands, stranger halts in portable ; ;r, while I fence to m of the lals, and killing them with large spears, A complete system of game-laws is in operation among the Bato'a. not for the purpose of prohibiting the chase of certain game, but in order to settle the disposal of the game when killed. Among them, the man who inflicts the first wound on an animal 'aas the right to the spoil, no matter how trifling maybe the wound which he inflicts. In case he does not kill the an mal himself, he is bound to give to the hunter who inflicts the fatal wound both legs of one side. Ai to the laws which regulate ordinary life, there is but little that calls for special notice, except a sort of ordeal for which they have a great veneration. This is called the ordeal of the Muave, and is analogous to the corsned and similar ordeals of the early ages of England. The dread of witchcraft is very strong here, as in other parts of Southern Africa; but among the Batoka the accused has the opportunity of clearing him- self by drinking a poisonous preparation called muave. Sometimes the accused dies from the draught, and in that ca^e his guilt is clear ; but in others the poison acts as an emetic, which is supposed to prove his innocence, the poison finding no congenial evil in the body, and therefore being rejected. No one seems to be free from such an accusation, as is clear from Living- stone's account. Near the confluence of the Kdpoe the Mambo, or chief, with some of his head-men, came to our sleeping-place with a present, Their foreheaas were smeated with white flour, and an unusual serious- ness marked their demeanor. Shortly before our arrival they had been accused of witchcraft: conscious of innocence, they accepted the ordeal, and undertook to drink the poisoned muave. For this purpose they made a journey to the sacred hill of Nehomokela, on which repose the bodies of their ancestors, and, after a solemn appeal to the unseen spirit to attest the innocence of their children, they swallowed the muave, vomited, and were therefore declared not guilty. Belief in Future Existence. It is evident that they believe that the soul has a continued existence, and that the spirits of the departed know what those they have left be- hind them are doing, and are pleased or not, according as their deeds are TQod or evil. This belief is universal. The owner of a large canoe ru- fused to sell it because it belonged to the spirit of his father, who helped him when he killed the hippopotamus. Another, when the bargain for his canoe was nearly completed, seeing a large serpent on a branch of a tree overhead, refused to complete the sale, alleging that this was the spirit of his father, come to protest against it. Some of the Batoka believe that a medicine should be prepared which Ml 178 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. would cure the bite of the tsetse, that small but terrible fly which makes such destruction among the cattle, but has no hurtful influence on man- kind. This medicine was discovered by a chief, whose son Moyara showed it to Livingstone. It consisted chiefly of a plant, which was ap- parently new to botanical science. The root was peeled, and the pecf sliced and reduced to powder, together with a dozen or two of the tsetse themselves. The remainder of the plant is also dried. When an animal shows symptoms of having been bitten by the tsetse, some of the powder is administered to the animal, and the rest of the dried plant is burned under it so as to fumigate it thoroughly. Moyara did not assert that the remedy was infallible, but only stated that if a herd of cattle were to stray into a district infested with the fly, some of them would be saved by the use of the medicine, whereas they would all die without it. Sweet Sounds of Music. The Batoka are fond of using a musical instrument that prevails, with some modifications, over a considerable portion of Central Africa. In its simplest form it consists of a board, on which are fixed a number of flat wooden strips, which, when pressed down and suddenly released, pro- duce a kind of musical tone. In fact, the principle of the sansa is exactly that of our musical-boxes, the only difference being that the teeth, or keys, of our instrument are steel and that they are sounded by little pegs and not by the fingers. Even among this one tribe there are great dif- ferences in the formation of the sansa. The best and most elaborate form is that in which the sounding-board of the sansa is hollow, in order to increase the resonance; and the keys are made of iron instead of wood, so that a really musical sound is pro- duced. Moreover, the instrument is enclosed in a hollow calabash, for the purpose of intensifying the sound; and both the sansa and the cala- bash are furnished with bits of steel and tin, which make a jingling accompaniment to the music. The calabash is generally covered with carvings. When the sansa is used, it is held with the hollow or orna- mented end toward the player, and the keys are struck with the thumbs the rest of the hand being occupied in holding the instrument. • African Poets, This carious instrument is used in accompanying songs. Livingstone mentions that a genuine native po^t attached himself to the party, an& composed a poem in honor of the white men, singing it whenever they halted, and accompanying himself on the sansa. At first, as he did not know much about his subject, he modestly curtailed his poem, but ex- tended it day by day, until at last it became quite a long ode. There was an I nati ext( had tore help an u Tl large toget happ( tribe, Th. quarn dome* w'lJage village sides n ingly d feud, a AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. 179 an evident rhythm in it, each line consisting of five syllables. Another native poet was in the habit of solacing himself every evening with an extempore song, in which he enumerated everything that the white men had dc.ie. He was not so accomplished a poet as his brother improvisa- tore* and occasionally found words to fail him. However, his sanvz lielped him when he was at a loss for a word, just as the piano helps oul an unskilled singer when at a loss for a note. The Batoka are remarkable for their clannish feeling ; and, when a large party are travelling in company, those of one tribe always keep together, and assist each other in every difficulty. Also, if they should happen to come upon a village or dwelling belonging to one of their own tribe, they are sure of a welcome and plentiful hospitality. The Batoka appear from all accounts to be rather a contentious people, quarrelsome at home and extending their strife to other villages. In domestic fights — that is :n combats between inhabitants of the same village — the antagonists are careful not to inflict fatal injuries. But when village fights against village, as is sometimes the case, the loss on both sides may be considerable. The result of such a battle would be exceed- ingly disagreeable, as the two villages would always be in a state of deadly feud, and an inhabitant of one would not dare to go near the other. Chronic Liars. The Batoka, however, have invented a plan by which the feud is stopped. When the victors have driven their opponents off the field, they take the body of one of the dead warriors, quarter it, and perform a serres of ceremonies over it. This appears to be a kind of challenge that they are masters of the field. The conquered party acknowledge their defeat by sending a deputation to ask for the body of their comrade, and, when they receive it, they go through the same ceremonies ; after which peace is supposed to be restored, and the inhabitants of the villages may visit each other in safety. Livingstone's informant further said, that when a warrior had slain an enemy, he took the head, and placed it on an ant-hill, until all the flesh was taken from the bones. He then removed the lower jaw, and wore it as a trophy. He did not see one of these trophies worn, and evidently thinks that the above account may be inaccurate. Indeed, Livingstutv expressly warns the reader against receiving with implicit belief accounts that are given by a native African. The dark interlocutor amiably desiixs to please, and, having no conception of truth as a principle, says exactly what he thinks will be most acceptable to the great white chief, on whom he looks as a sort of erratic supernatural being. if t ■.. ?i li "■KS ilil if^Wt 180 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ' Ask a native whether the mountains in his own district arc lofty, or ' gold is found there, and he will assuredly answer in the affirmative. So he will if he be asked whether unicorns live.in his country, or whether he knows of a race of tailed men, being only anxious to please, and not thinking that the truth or falsehood of the answer can be of the least zonsequence. If the white sportsman shoots at an animal, and makes ? palpable miss, his dusky attendants are sure to say that the bullet went through the animal's heart and that it only bounded away for a short distance. " He is our father," .say the natives, *' and he would be dts- ■ pleased if we told him that he had missed." It is even worse with the ' slaves, who are often used as interpreters ; and it is hardly possible to induce them to interpret with any modicum of truth. The Expedition Halts. The travellers landed at the head of Garden Island, and, as the doctor had done before, peered over the giddy heights at the further end across the chasm. The measurement of the chasm was now taken ; it was found to be eighty yards opposite Garden Island, while the waterfall itself was twice the depth of that of Niagara, and the river where it went over the rock fully a mile wide. Charles Livingstone, who had seen Niagara, pronounced it inferior in magnificence to the Victoria Falls. The Batokas consider Garden Island and another further west as sacred spots, and here, in days gone by, they assembled to worship the 'Deity. Livingstone, on his former visit, had planted a number of orange- trees and seeds at Garden Island, but though a hedge had been placed round them, they had all been destroyed by the hippopotami. Others were now put in. They, as was afterwards found, shared the same fate. They now proceeded up the river, and very soon met a party from Sekeletu, who was now at Sesheke, and had sent to welcome then). Afterward they entered his town. They were requested to take up their quarters at the kotlar, or public meeting-place tree. During the day vjsitors continually called on them, all complaining of the misfortunes they had suffered. The condition of Sekeletu, however, was the most lamentable. He had been attacked by leprosy, and it was said that his fingers had become like eagles' claws, and his face so fearfully distorted that no one could recognize him. One of their head men had been put to death, it being supposed that he had bewitched the chief The native doctor could do nothing for him, but he was under the charge of an old doctress of the Manyeti AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. 181 tribt, u'ho allowed no one to s£e him except his mother and uncle. He, however, sent for Dr. Livingstone, who gladly went to him. He and Dr. Kirk at once toid him that the disease was most difficult to cure, and that he might rest assured that he had not been bewitched. They appliec^ Umar caustic externally And hydrate of potash internally, with satisfactory esuits; so that in the course of a short time the poor chief's appearance greatly improved. How a Chief Thought to «Qet Rid of the Falls. Although the tribe had been suffering from famine, the chief treated his visitors with all the hospitality in his power. Some Benguela traders had come up to Sesheke, intending probably to return from the Batoka country to the east with slaves ; but the Makololo, however, had secured all the ivory in that region. As the traders found that the trade in slaves without ivoiy did not pay, they knew it would not be profitable to obtain them, for Sekeletu would allow no slaves to be carried through his terri- tory, and thus by his means an extensive slave-mart was closed. Sekeletu was greatly pleased with the articles the doctor brought him from England, and enquired whether a ship could not bring up the remainder of the things which had been left at Tete. On being told that possibly a steamer might ascend as far as Sinainanes, he enquired whether a cannon could not blow away the Victoria Falls, so as to enable her to reach Sesheke. The Makololo, who had been sent down to Benguela, came to pay the travellers a visit, dressed in well-washed shirts, coats and trousers, pa-ont leather boots, and brown wide awakes on their heads. They had a long conversation with their men about the wonderful things they had all seen. Sekeletu, who took a great fancy to Dr. Kirk, offered him permission to .select any part of the country he might choose for the establishment of an English colony. Indeed, there is sufficient uncultivated ground on the cool unpeopled highlands for a very large population. A Tribe of Cattle Stealers. The Makololo are apt to get into trouble by their propensity to .steal cattle ; for if their marauding is sanctioned by the chief, they do not loul< upon it as dishonorable. The expedition left Sesheke on the 17th of September, i860, convoyet jy Pitsane and Leshore. Pitsane was directed to form a hedge round the garden at the falls on his way. When navigating the river, the canoe- men kept close to the bank during the day for fear of being upset by the hippopotami, but at night, when those animals are found near the shore, they sailed down the middle of the stream. The canoes were wretched, ' f ^^'' > i 1 ilpf l:f i pi . %■;' !' V .i ||ii;^' ■ II i: l-\ i'f «/1 s u M VI (182) AFLOAT ON THZ RIVER ZAMBESI. 183 and a strong wind blew against them, but their Batoka boatmen man- aged them with great dexterity. Some of these men accompanied the expedition the whole way to the sea. On their passage down the river, in approaching Kariba Rapids, they came upon a herd of upwards of thirty hippopotami. The canoe-men ^ re afraid of venturing among them, asserting that there "is sure to be an ill-tempered one who would take a malignant pleasure in upsetting <^he canoes. Several boys on the rocks were amusing themselves by throwing stones at the frightened animals. One was shot, its body float- ing down the current. A man hailed them from the bank, advising them to let him pray to the Kariba gods that they might have a .safe passage down the rapids, for, without his assistance they would certainly be drowned. Notwithstanding, having examined the falls, seeing that canoes might be caried down in safety, they continued their voyage. The na- tives were much astonished to see them pass in safety without the aid of the priest's intercession. Recovering the Prize. Here they found the hippopotamus which had been shot, and, taking it in tow, told the villagers that if they would follow to their landing- place, they should have most of the meat. The crocodiles, however, lugged so hatd at it, that they were compelled to cast it adrift and let the current float it down. They recovered the hippopotamus, which was cut up at the place where they landed to spend the night. As soon as it was dark, the crocodiles attacked the portion that was left in the water, tear- ing away at it and lashing about fiercely with their tails. A day or two afterwards they encamped near some pitfalls, in which several bufialoes had shortly before been caught, and one of the animals had been left. During the night the wind blew directly from the dead buffalo to their sleeping-place, and a hungry lion which came to feed on the carcass so stirred up the putrid mass and growled so loudly over his feast, that their slumbers were greatly disturbed. They feached Zumbo by the first of November. Here their men had a scurvy trick played them by the Banyai. The Makololo had shot a hippopotamus, when a number of the natives came across, pretending to assist them in rolling it ashore, and advised them tb cast off the rope, S3/ing that it was an encumbrance. All were shouting and talking, when suddenly the carcass disappeared in a deep hole. The Makololo jumped in after it, one catching the tail, another a foot, but down it went, and they got but a lean fowl instead. It floated during the night, and was found about a mile below, on the bank. The Banyai, however, there i w I I I hi '^1 1 u jV) \'.: m Ff 1 (ipifi I . • m ! I yji: .(i; ^1 184 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. disputed the right to it, and, rather than quarrel, the Makololo, after taking a small portion, wisely allowed them to remain with the rest. Saved by Gi^aspiiig llie Kock. Believing that there was sufficient depth of water, they vi ntured down Jie Kebrabasa Rapids. For .several miles they continued onward till ;he river narrowing, navigation became both difficult and dangerd;.-. Two canoes passed safely down the narrow channel with an ugly whirl- pool, caused by the water being divided by a rock in the centre. Living- stone's canoe came next, and while it appeared to be drifting broadside into the vortex, a crash was heard, and Kirk's canoe was seen dashed against the perpendicular rock by a sudden boiling-up of the river, which occurs at regular intervals. Kirk grasped the rock and saved him- self, while his steersman, holding on to the same ledge, preserved the canoe, but all its contents were lost, including the doctor's notes of the journey, and botmical drawings of the fruit-trees of the«interior. After this the party, having had enough of navigation, performed the remainder of the journey on shore. Tete was reached on the 23d of November, the expedition having been absent rather more than six months. They were glad to find that the two English sailors were in good health, and had behaved very well ; but their farm had been a ftiilure. A few sheep and fowls had been left with them; they had purchased more of the latter, and expected to have a good supply of eggs, but they unfortunately also bought two monkeys, who ate up all their eggs. One night a hippopotamus destroyed their vege- table garden, the sheep ate up their cotton-plants, while the crocodiles carried off the sheep, and the natives had stolen their fowls. Having discovered that the natives have a mortal dread of the chame- leon, one of which animals they had on board, they made good use of their knowledge. They had learned the market price of provisions, and determined to pay that and no more. When the traders, therefore, de- manded a higher price and refused to leave the sheep till it was paid, the chameleon was instantly brought out of the cabin, when the natives spran;.; overboard, and made no further attempt to impose upon them. A re- markable reptile this is, and we subjoin an accurate description of it. The Fainoijis Chaiueleon. One character of the chameleon consists in the tongue being cylindri« cal, worm-like, capable of being greatly elongated, and terminating in a fleshy tubercle, lubricated with a viscid saliva. Another appears in the surface of the skin being covered with horny granules, instead of scales. A third is seen in the deep and compressed form of the body, which is *;\Si :>''■ ••^. s*''. i mi i - " CHAPTER IX. BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGER?. Setting Out in a Leaky Vessel— A Losing Adventure — Bishop Mackenzie's Arrivrtl— The " Pioneer" gets Aground— Description of a Well-known tribe— Farming in Africa— Generous Hospitality— Remarkable Costumes— Elegant Tattooing— > Natives that Seldom Wash— An African Dancing Party— Belief in Visits from Departed Spirits— Burning Villages— Battle whh Ajawa Warriors -Transporting the Boats Overland— Sudden and Terrific Storm— Air Thick with Midges — Enormous Crocodiles— Camp Plundered by Thieves— Dangers Thicken — The Expedition on its Return -Mrs. Livingstone's Arrival— Deaths of Bishop Mac- kenzie and Mrs. Livingstone — Lonely Graves in a Strange Land— Bullets and Poisoned Arrows — Immense Flocks of Beiutiful Birds— The Fiery Flamingo — Wine from the Palm — A Bird's Extraordinary Nest— Odd Specimen of the Monkey Tribes — Deserted Country — Lord Russell Recalls th*; Expedition — Alarm from Savage Invaders — The " Pioneer" Disabled— Livingstone at Bombay. NCE more, in December, the leaky *' Asthmatic " was got under v 7, but every day fresh misfortunes happened to her, till Rae declared : " She cannot be any worse than she is, sir." He and his mate, Hutchings, had done their best to patch her up, but her condition was past their skiU. She soon grounded on a sand- bank and filled. The river rising, all that was visible the next day was about six feet of her two masts. The property on board was, however, saved, and the expedition spent their Chri-^tmas of 1 860 encamped on the island of Chimba. Canoes having been procured, they reached Senna late in the month. They here saw a large party of slaves belonging to the commandant, who had been up to trade with Mozelekatse, carrying a thousand muskets and a large quantity of gunpowder, and bringing back ivory, ostrich feathers, a thousand sheep and goats, and thirty head of fine cattle, and in addition a splendid white bull, to show that he and the traders parted friends. The adventure, however, was a losing one to the poor com- mandant : a fire had broken out in the camp, and the ostrich feathers had been burned ; the cattle liad died from the bite of the tsetse, as had the white bull, and six hundred of the sheep had been eaten by the slaves^ they thinking more of their own comfort than their master's gain. Proceeding down the river in boats, the expedition reached Congo early in January, 1861. Here a flag-staff and a custom-house (a floorless hut of mangrove stakes roofed with stakes'^ had been erected. The gar- (190) BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 191 rison of the place being almost starved, the provisions of the expedition also ran short, though they obtained game in abundance. A Notable Arrival. On the last day of the month the " Pioneer," the steamer which had been sent to replace the " Asthmatic," appeared off the bar, but the bad weather prevented her entering. At the same time two men-of-war arrived, bringing Bishop Mackenzie at the head of the Oxford «nd Cam- bridge mission to the tribes of the Shire and Lake Nyassa. It consisted of six Englishmen and five colored men from the Cape. The bishop wished at once to proceed up to Chibisa ; but the " Pioneer " was under orders to explore the Rovuma, and it was ultimately arranged that the members of the mission should be carried over to Johanna in the " Lyra " man-of-war, while the bishop himself accompanied the expedition in the "Pioneer." They had reached the mouth of the Rovuma late in February. The rainy season was already half over, and the river had fallen considerably. The ^cenery was superior to that on the Zambesi. Eight miles from the mouth the mangrove disappeared, and a beautiful range of well-wooded hills rose on either side. Unhappily fever broke out, and the navigation of the " Pioneer " fell to the charge of Dr. Livingstone and his com- panions. The water falling rapidly, it was considered dangerous to run the risk of detention in the river for a year, and the ship returned down to the sea. On their voyage back they touched at Mohilla, one of the Comoro Islands, and from thence went on to Johanna, where they received the bishop's followers, and proceeded back to the Kongone. Thence they at once directed their course up the Zambesi to the Shire. The " Pioneer," it was found, drew too much water for the navigation of the river, and she in consequence frequently grounded. Among his many duties, Charles Livingstone was engaged in collecting specimens of cotton, and upwards of three hundred pounds were thus obtained, at a price of less than two cents a pounds, which showed that cotton of -a superior quality could be raised by native labor alone, and that but for the slave trade a large amount might be raised in the country. Wherever they went they gained the confidence of the people, and hitherto the expedition had been eminently successful. At Chigunda a Manganja chief had invited the bishop to settle in his country near Magomero, adding that there w^s room enough for both. This sponta- neous invitation seemed to decide the bishop on the subject. The country which this tribe inhabits is well and fully watered, ' f 192 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. abounding in clear and cold streams, which do not dry up even in the dry season. Pasturage is consequently abundant, and yet the people do not trouble themselves about cattle, allowing to lie unused tracts of land which would feed vast herds of oxen, not to mention sheep and goats. Their mode of goveinnunt is rather curious, and yet simple. The country is tlivided into a number of districts, the head of which goes by the title of Rundo. A great number of villages are under the command of each Rundo, though each of the divisions is independent of the others, and they do not acknowledge one cotnmon chief or king. The chief- tainship is not restricted to the male sex, as in one of the districts a woman named Nyango was the Rundo, and exercised her authority judiciously, by improving the social status of the women throughout her dominions. An annual tribute is paid to the Rundo by each village, mostly consisting of one tusk of each elephant killed, and he in return is bound to assist and protect them should they b^ threatened or attacked. The Manganjas are an industrious race, being good workers in metal, especially iron, growing cotton, making baskets, and cultivating the ground, in which occupation both sexes usually share; and it is a pleas- ant thing to .see men, women and children all at work together in the fields, with perhaps the baby lying asleep in the shadow of a bush. African Farmers. They clear the forest ground exactly as is done in America, cutting down the trees with their axes, piling up the branches and trunks in heaps, burning them, and scattering the ashes over the ground by way of manure. The stumps are left to rot in the ground, and the corn is sown among them. Grass land is cleared in a different manner. The glass in that land is enormou.sly thick and long. The cultivator gathers a bundle into his hands, twists the ends together, and tics them in a knot. He then cuts the roots with his adze-like hoe, so as to leave the bunch of grass still standing, like a sheaf of wheat. When a field has been entirely cut, it looks to a .stranger as if it werp in harvest, tlie bundles of grass standing at intervals like the giain shocks. Just before the rainy season comes on, the bundles are fired, the ashes are roughly dug into the soil, and an abundant harvest is the result. The cotton is prepared after a very simple and slow fashion, the fibre being picked by hand, drawn out into a " roving," partially twi.sted, and then rolled up into a ball. It is the opinion oftho.se who have had prac- tical experience of this cotton, that, if the natives could be induced to plant and dress it in large quantities, an enormous market might be found BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 193 for it. The ** staple," or fibre, of this cotton is not so long as that in America, and has a harsh, wooly feeling in the hand. But, as it is very strong, and the fabrics made from it are very durable, the natives prefer it to the foreign plant. Almost every Manganja family of importance has its own little cotton patch, from half an acre to an acre in size, which is kept carefully tended and free from weeds. The loom in which they .vcave their simple cloth is very rude, and is one of the primitive forms ol a weaver's apparatus. It is placed horizontally, and not vertically, and the weaver has to squat on the ground when engaged in his work. The shuttle is a mere stick, with the thread wound spirally round it, and, when it is passed between the cross threads of the warp, the warp is beaten into its place with a flat stick. Unbounded Hospitality. They are a hospitable people, and have a well-understood code of cere- mony in the reception of strangers. In each village there is a spot called the Boala, that is, a space of about thirty or forty yards diameter, which is sheltered by baobab, or other spreading trees, and which is always kept neat and clean. This is chiefly used as a place where the basket- makers and others who are engaged in sedentary occupations can work in company, and also serves as a meeting-place in evenings, where they sing, dance, smoke, and drink beer after the toils of the day. As soon as a stranger enters a village, he is conducted to the Boala, where he takes his seat on the mats that are spread for him, and awaits the coming of the chief man of the village. As soon as he makes his. appearance, his people welcome him by clapping their hands in unison,, u.id continue this salutation until he has taken his seat, accompanied by his councillors. " Our guides," writes Livingstone, " then sit down in front of the chief and his councillors, and both parties lean forward, looking earnestly at each other. The chief repeats a word, such as ' Ambuiata * (our father or master), or ' Moio ' (life), and all clap their hands. Another word is followed by two claps, a third by still more clapping, when each touches the ground with both hands placed together. Then all rise and lean forward with measured clap, and sit down again A'ith clap, clap, clap, fainter and still fainter, until the last dies away, or is orought to an end, by a smart loud clap from the chief. They keep perfect time in this species of court etiquette." This curious salutation is valued very highly, and the people are care- fully instructed in it from childhood. The chief guide of the stranger party then addresses the chief, and tells him about his visitors — who they are, why they have come, etc. ; and mostly does so in a kind of blank 13 i I li V:i hH<':t I f^iiw^M iviil 194 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. verse — the power of improvising a poetical narrative being valued as highly as the court salutations, and sedulously cultivated by all of any pretensions to station. It is rather amusing at first to the traveller to find that, if he should happen to inquire his way at a hut, his own guide addresses the owner of the hut in blank verse, and is answered in the same fashion. Singular Costume. The dress of this tribe is rather, peculiar, the head being the chief ps - of the person which is decorated. Some of the men save themselves tin trouble of dressing their hair by shaving it off entirely, but a greatei . number take a pride in decorating it in various ways. The head-dress which seems to be most admired is that in which the hair is trained to resemble the horns of the buffalo. This is done by taking two pieces of hide while they are wet and pliable, and bending them into the required > shape. When the two horns are dry and hard, they are fastened on the head, and the hair is trained over them, and fixed in its place by grease • and clay. Sometimes only one horn is used, which projects immediately over the forehead ; but the double horn is the form which is most in •vogue. Others divide their hair into numerous tufts, and separate them by •winding round each tuft a thin bandage, made of the inner bark of a tree, so that they radiate from the head in all directions, and produce an effect •which is much valued by this simple race. Some draw the hair together ..toward the back of the head, and train it so as to hang down their backs in a shape closely resembling the pigtail which was so fashionable an ornament of the British sailor in Nelson's time. Others, again, allow the hair to grow much as nature formed it, but train it to grow in heavy •masses all round their heads. The women are equally fastidious with the men, but have in addition • a most singular ornament called the " the pelele." This is a ring that is ;not fixed into the ear or nose, but into the upper lip, and gives to the ;veareraa appearance that is most repulsive to an American. Elaborate Tattooing. In this .part of the country the sub-tribes are distinguished by certain marks wherewith ithey tattoo themselves, and thereby succeed in stil' farther disfiguring countenances which, if allowed to remain untouched, would be agreeable enough. Some of them have a fashion of pricking holes all over thqir faces, and treating the wounds in such a way that, when they heal, the skin is raised in little knobs, and the face looks as if '4: were covered .with .warts. Add to this fashion the pelele, and the d as any er to ruide I the f ps ' es tin reatei -dress led to :ces of quired on the grease jdiately nost in lem by f a tree, n effect ocfether r backs able an low the heavy iddition that is ;s to the certaiii in stil' Itouched, Ipricking Ivay that, l>oks as if and the BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 195 reader may form an opinion of the beauty of a fashionable woman. If the object of fashion be to conceal age, this must be a most successful fashion, as it entirely destroys the lines of the countenance, and hardens and distorts the features to such an extent, that it is difficult to judge by the face whether the owner be sixteen or sixty. One of the women had her body most curiously adorned by tattooing SPECIMEN OF ELEGANT TATTOOING. md, indeed, was a remarkable specimen of Manganja fashion. She had shaved all her head, and supplied the want of hair by a feather tuft over her forehead, tied on by a band. From a point on the top of her fore- head ran lines radiating over the cheeks as far as the ear, looking some- thing like the marks on a New Zealander's face. This radiating principle was carried out all over her body. A similar point was marked on each shoulder blade, from which the lines radiate down and back and over the ■!;i. H'J 196 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. shoulders, and on the lower part of the spine and on each arm were other patterns of a similar nature. She of course wore the pelele ; but she seemed ashamed of it, probably because she was a travelled woman, and had seen white men before. So when she was about to speak to them, she retired to her hut, removed the pelele, and, while speaking, held her hand before her mouth, so as to conceal the. ugly aperture in her lip. Cleanliness seems to be unsuitable to the Manganja constitution. They could not in the least understand why travellers should wash themselves, and seemed to be personally ignorant of the process. One very old man, however, said that he did remember once to have washed himself; but that it was so long ago that he had quite forgotten how he felt. Afraid of Cold Water. A very amusing use was once made of this antipathy to cold water. One of the Manganjas took a fancy to attach himself to the expedition, and nothing could drive him away. He insisted on accompanying them, and annoyed them greatly by proclaiming in every village to which they came, " These people have wandered ; they do not know where they are going." He was driven off repeatedly ; but as soon as the march was resumed, there he was, with his little bag over hisshouldei, ready to proclaim the wandering propensities of the strangers, as usual. At last a happy idea struck them. They threatened to take him down to the river and wash him ; whereupon he made off in a fright, and never made his appearance again. * Perhaps in consequence of this uncleanliness, skin diseases are rife among the Manganjas, and appear to be equally contagious and durable ; many persons having white blotches over their bodies, and many others being afflicted with a sort of leprosy, which, however, does not seem to trouble them particularly. Even the fowls are liable to a similar disease, and have their feet deformed by a thickening of the skin. Sobriety seems as rare with the Manganjas as cleanliness; for they are lotable topers, and actually contrive to intoxicate themselves on their native beer, a liquid of so exceedingly mild a character that nothing but strong determination and a capability of consuming vast quantities of liquid would produce the desired effect. The beer is totally unlike ordinary drink. In the first place, it is quite thick and opaque, and looks much like gruel of a pinkish hue. It is made by pounding the vegetating grain, mixing it with water, boiling it, and allowing it to ferment. When it is about two days old, it is pleasant enough, having a slightly swsetish-acid flavor^ which has the property of immediately 3ing but titles of unlike [ue, and ling the ig it to laving a lediately BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 197 quenching thirst, and is therefore most valuable to the traveller, for whose refreshment the hospitable people generally produce it. As to themselves, there is some explanation of their intemperate habits. They do not possess hops, or any other substance that will pre- serve the beer, and in consequence they are obliged to consume the whole brewing within a day or two. When, therefore, a chief has a great brew of beer, the people assemble, and by day and night they con- tinue drinking, drumming, dancing, and feasting, until the whole of the beer is gone. Yet, probably on account of the nourishing qualities ot the beer — which is, in fact, little more than very thin porridge-r-the excessive drinking does not seem to have any injurious effect on the people, many being seen who were evidently very old, and yet who had been accustomed to drink beer in the usual quantities. The women seem to appreciate the beer as well as the men, though they do not appear to be so liable to intoxication. Perhaps the reason for this com- parative temperance is, that their husbands do not give them enough of it. In their dispositions they seem to be lively and agreeable, and have a peculiarly merry laugh, which seems to proceed from the heart, and is not in the least like the senseless laugh of the western negro. People Who Tra^ i Xames. In this part of the country, not on'y among the Manganjas but in other tribes, the custom of changing names is prevalent, and sometimes leads to odd results. One day a head-man named Sininyane was called as usual, but made no answer ; nor did a third and fourth call produce any result. At last one of his men replied that he was no longer Sinin- yane, but Moshoshama, and to that name he at once responded. It then turiiod out that he had exchanged names with a Zulu. The object of the exchange is, that the two persons are thenceforth bound to consider each other as comrades, and to give assistance in every way. If, for example, Sininyane had happened to travel into the country where Moshoshama lived, the latter was bound to treat him like a brother. They seem to be an intelligent race, and to appreciate the notion of a Creator, and of the immortality of the soul ; but, like most African races, they cannot believe that the white and the black races have any- thing in common, or th.:it the religion of the former can suit the latter. They are very ready to admit that Christianity is an admirable religion for white men, but will by no means be persuaded that it would be equally good for themselves. They have a hazy sort of idea of t/iei'f Creator, the invisible head chief of the spirits, and ground their belief in the immortality of the soul on l; ■ i I'A II m % ! 1 • i ■ ' : • ; f'[ u 9 fJQ ^ M W O o L> C198) BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 19d the fact that their departed relatives come and speak to them in their dreams. They have the same idea of the muave poison that has already- been mentioned ; and so strong is their belief in its efficacy that, in a dis- pute, one man will challenge the other to drink muave ; and even the chiefs themselves will often offer to test its discriminating powers. When a Manganja dies, a great wailing is kept up in his house for two days; his tools and weapons are broken, together with his cooking vessels. All food in the house is taken out and destroyed ; and even the beer is poured on the earth. The burial grounds seem to be carefully cherished — as carefully, indeed, as many of the churchyards in America. The graves are all arranged north and south, and the sexes of the dead are marked by the implements laid on the grave. These implements are always broken ; partly, perhaps, to signify that they can be used no more, and partly to save them from being stolen. Thus a broken mortar and pestle for pounding corn, together with the fragments of a sieve, tell that there lies below a woman who once had used them ; whilst a piece of a net or a shattered paddle are emblems of the fishermen's trade, and tell that a fisherman is interred below. Broken calabashes, gourds, and other vessels, are laid on almost every grave ; and in some instances a banana is planted at the head. The relatives wear a kind of mourning, consist- ing of narrow strips of palm leaf wound around their heads, necks, arms, legs, and breasts, and allowed to remain there until they drop off by decay. Startlingr News. As Livingstone marched forward word was received that the Ajawa were near, burning villages ; and at once the doctor and his companions advanced to seek an interview with these scourges of the country. On their way they met crowds of Manganjas flying, having left all their property and food behind them. Numerous fields of Indian corn were passed, but there was no one to reap them. All the villages were deserted. One, where on the previous visit a number of men had been ;een peacefully weaving cloth, was burned, and the stores of grain ocattered over the plain and along the paths. The smoke of burning /illages was seen in front, and triumphant shouts, mingled with the wail jf the Manganja women lamenting over the slain, reached their ears. The bishop knelt and engaged in prayer, and on rising, a long line of Ajawa warriors with their captives was seen. In a short time the travellers were surrounded, the savages shooting their poisoned arrows and dancing hideously. Some had muskets, but, on shots being fired at them, they ran off. \f i 1) M I I fe!; ■ - JM ^ '■ %. t' '■■ ^ i ^1 ' il! 200 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. The main body in the mean time decamped with the captives, two only of whom escaped and joined their new friends. Most of the party pro- posed going at once to the rescue of the captive Manganja ; but this Livingstone oppos.ed, believing that it would be better for the bishop to wait the effect of the check given to the slave-hunters. It was eviden' that the Ajawa were instigated by the Portuguese agents from Tete. I ' vvas possible that they might by persuasion be induced to follow the better course, but, from their long habit of slaving for the Quillimant market, this appeared doubtful. The bishop consulted Livingstone as Xc whether, should the Manganjas ask his assistance against the Ajawa, iv would be his duty to give it ? The reply was : " Do not interfere in native quarrels." Leaving the members of the commission encamped on a beautiful spot, surrounded by stately trees, near the clear little stream of Magomero, the expedition returned to the ship to prepare for their journey to Lake Nyassa. A Fresli Start. In August, i86i,the two doctors and Charles Livingstone started in a four-oared gig, with one while sailor and twenty Makololo, for Nyassa. Carriers were easily engaged to convey the boat past the forty miles of the Murchison Cataracts, Numberless volunteers came forward, and the men of one village transported it to the next. They passed the little Lake of Pamalombe, about ten miles long and five broad, surrounded thickly by papyrus. Myriads of mosquitoes showed the presence cf malaria, and they hastened by it. Again launching their boat, they proceeded up the river, and entered the lake early in September, greatly refreshed by the cool air which came off its wide expanse of water. The centre appeared to be of a deep blue, while the shallow water along the edge was indicated by its light green color. A little from the shore the water was from nine to fifteen fathoms in depth, but round a grand mountain promontory no bottom could be obtained with their lead-line of thirty-five fathoms. The lake was esti- nated to be about two hundred miles long and from twenty to sixty oroad. The lake appeared to be surrounded by mountains, but on the wcs. they were merely the edges of high table-land. It is visited by sudden and tremendous storms. One morning the sea si'ddc^niy rose around them, preventing them from advancing or reced- ing, as the tremendous surf on the beach would have knocked their light boat to pieces, while the waves came rolling on in threes, their crests n > 2: o w o > H U3 H X JO o c c a: > z > o w H i 'a. : c^ be ixty S(.a :ed- ht 'g in 4 1. r * ) 1 P tn -ests (201) iS-i ■u'i:i. i r |M- r 202 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. broken into spray. Had one of them struck the boat, nothing could have saved her from being swamped, " They are Lost! They are all Dead I " For six hours they remained at anchor a little from the shore, thus ex- posed to the fury of the gale. The crew became sea-sick and unable to keep the boat's head to the sea, while some of their party who had remained on shore watched them, the natives every moment exclaiming : ' They are lost ! they are all dead ! " After this, every night they hauled the boat up on the beach ; and, had it not been supposed that these storms were peculiar to one season, they would have given the Nyas; a the name of the " Lake of Storms." A dense population exists on the shores of the lake, some being a tribe of Zulus who came from the south some years ago. They own large herds of cattle, and arc on the increase by uniting other people to them- selves. The marshy spots are tenanted by flocks of ducks, geese, cranes, herons, andHumerous other birds. The people cultivate the soil, grow- ing large quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, maize and millet. Those at the north end reap a curious harvest. Clouds of what appeared to be smoke rising from miles of burning grass were seen in the distance. The appearance was caused by countless millions of midgets. As the voyagers' boat passed through them, eyes and mouth had to be kept closed. The people collect these insects by night and boil them into thick cakes, to be eaten as a relish. One of these cakes, which tasted like salted locusts, was presented to the doctor. Abundance of fish were caught, some with nets, and others with hook and line. Women were seen fishing, with babies on their backs. Enor- mous crocodiles were seen, but, as they can obtain abundance of fish, they seldom attack men. When, however, its proper food is scarce, the crocodile, as is always the case, becomes very dangerous. The lake t''ibcs appear to be open-handed , and, whenever a net was drawn, fish was invariably offered. On one occasion the inhabitants, on their arrival, took out their seine, dragged it, and made their visitors a present of the entire haul. The chiefs treated them also with consider- ible kindness. One at the north of Marenga, who was living in a stock- ade in a forest surrounded by a wide extent of country, which he owned, made them beautiful presents. The doctor admiring an iron bracelet studded with copper which the chief wore, he took it off and presented it to him, while his wife did the same with hers. At one place a party of thieves stole into the camp and carried off most of their goods, no one awaking, though their rifles and revolvers were all ready all th On Maziti vlie ini X i-^-^c "■\'M BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 205 They soon received a visit from the bishop, who appeared in excellent spirits, and believed that all promised well for future success. He arranged to explore the country from Magomero to the mouth of the river, and it was agreed that the " Pioi eer," her draught being too great for the upper part of the Shire, should on her next trip not go higher than Ruo. The "Pioneer" Acrround. With three hearty cheers, the " Pioneer" steamed down the river. The rain ceasing, she unfortunately ran on a shoal, and was detained in an unhealthy spot for five weeks. Here the carpenter's mate, a fine healthy young man, was seized with fever and died. A permanent rise in the river enabled them at last to get on. On reaching Ruo, they heard that Mariano had returned from Mozambique, and was desolating the right bank of the river. He had lived in luxury during his nominal imprison- ment, and was now able to set the Portuguese at defiance. An officer .sent against him, instead of capturing the rebel, was captured himself, but soon returned to Tete with a present of ivory he had deceived. The Zambesi was reached in January, 1862, when the " Pioneer" pro- ceeded to the Great Luabo mouth of the river. Soon Her Majesty's ship " Gorgon " arrived, towing the brig which brought out Mrs. Living- stone and some ladies about to join the University mission, as v/ell as the sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation of Lake Nyassa. The name of the " Lady Nyassa" was given to the new vessel. The " Pioneer," with as large a portion of . the vessel as she could carry, accompanied by two of the " Gorgon's " paddle-box boats, steamed o(T for Ruo in February. Her progress was very slow, and six months were expended before Shupanga was reached. Here the sections ot the " Lady Nyassa " were landed, and preparations were made to screw her together. Sad Deaths. Captain Wilson had kindly gone on in his boat to Ruo. On reaching^ Ruo, greatly to their dismay the chief declared that no white man had :ome to his village. They thence went on to Chibisa, where the sad news was received of the death of the bishop. The sad tale of the bishop's death has often been told. He had set off in the hopes of rescuing some of his flock who had been kidnapped, and, undergoing fatigue and exposure to rain far greater than his constitution could stand, having been upset in a canoe and sleeping afterwards in his wet clothes, had succumbed to fever when returning to Ruo. About the middle of April Mrs. Livingstone was attacked by fever. .^1 !' 'i >?1'i' (. : T 1i I m t:*'? 206 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Notwithstanding the most skillful medical aid rendered to her, her eyes were cloiJed in death as the sun set on a Sabbath day, the 27th of April, 1862. Her grave was placed beneath the great baobab-tree in the spot before described. Tliere rested the daughter of the Missionary Moffat, that Christian lady who had exercised such beneficial influence over the rude tribes of the interior, and niight, it wis hopod, have renewed her labors in the country to which she had come. The " Lady Nyassa " was now screwed together and her stores got on board ; but, as she could not be taken to the cataract before the rains in December, the " Pioneer " sailed for Johanna to obtain mules and oxen to convey her by land, after she had been taken to pieces, above the falls. To fill up the time the doctor resolved, on the return of the " Pioneer," to explore the Rovunjd in boats. Captain Gardner and several of his officers accompanied them two days in the gig and cutter. The water was now low ; but when filled by the rains, in many respects the Rovuma appears superior to the Zambesi. It would probably be valuable as a highway for commerce during three-fourths of each year. Trip up the Rovuma. Above Kichokomane was a fertile plain, studded with a number of de- sorted villages. Its inhabitants were living on low sandbanks, though they had left their property behind, fearing only being stolen themselves. They showed, however, an unfriendly spirit to the white men, not under- standing their objects. The blacks assembled on the shore, and evidently intended to attack the party as they passed the high bank, but a stiff breeze swept the boats by. Attempts were made to persuade the natives that the travellers had only peaceful intentions, that tl. ^ wished to be their friends, and that their countrymen bought cotton and ivory. Not- withstanding this, these savages were not satisfied, and their leader was seen urging them to fire. Many of them had muskets, while others, who were armed with bows, held them with arrows ready set to shoot. Still the doctor and his companions were exceedingly unwilling to come to blows, and half an hour was spent, during which, at any moment, they might have been struck by bullets or poisoned arrows. The English assured them that they had plenty of ammunition, that they did not wish to shed the blood of the children of the same Great Father, and that if there was a fight, the guilt would be theirs. At last their leader ordered them to lay down their arms, and he came, saying that the river was theirs, and that the English must pay toll for leave to pass. As it was better to do so than li BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 207 fight, the payment demanded was given, and they promised to be friends ever afterwards. The sail was then hoisted, and the boats proceeded up, when they were followed by a large party, as it was supposed merely to watch them, but without a moment's warning the savages fired a volley 6f musket- oalls and poisoned arrows. Providentially they were so near that six arrows passed over their heads, and four musket-balls alone went through the sail. Their assailants immediately bolted, and did not again appear UU the boats had got to a considerable distance. A few shots were fired THE PELICAN. over their heads, to give them an idea of the range of the Englishmen's rifles. They had probably expected to kill some of the party, and then in the confusion to rob the boats. They were more hospitably treated by a Makoa chief higher up, who had been to Iboe, and once to M6zambique with slaves. Ilis people refused to receive gaily-colored prints, having probably been deceived by sh?im ones before, preferring the plain blue stuff of which they had experience. Another old chief, on seeing them go by, laid down hi« gun, and when they landed approached them. They proceeded up the cataracts of the Rovuma, but finding that the m 208 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. distance overland was far greater to Lake Nyassa than that by Murchi- son's Cataracts on the Shire, tliey considered it best to take their steamer up by that route. After having been away a month, they reached the " Pioneer " on the 9th of October. The ship's company had used dis- tilled water, and not a single case of sickness had occurred on board, while those who had been in the boats had some slight attacks. After this they put to sea and visited Johanna, returning to the fever • haunted village of Quillimane. Here they were kindly entertained by one of the few honorable Portuguese officials they met with in that region, Colonel Nunes. He came out as a cabin-boy, and, by persevering energy, has become the richest man on the East Coast. Extraordinary Sig^ht. Early in January, 1863, the "Pioneer," with the "Lady Nyassa" in tow, steamed up the Swire. The Shire marshes support prodigious numbers of many kinds of water-fowl. An hour at the mast-head unfolded novel views of life in an African marsh. Near the edge, and on the branches of some favorite tree, rest scores of plotuses and cormorants, which stretch their snake- like necks and in mute amazement turn one eye and then another towards the approaching monster. By and by the timid ones begin to fly off, or take " headers " into the stream ; but a few of the bolder, or more composed, remain, only taking the precaution to spread their wings, ready for instant flight. The pretty ardetta, of a light yellow color when at rest, but seemingly of a pure white when flying, takes wing, and sweeps across the green grass in large numbers, often showing where buffaloes and elephants are by perching on their backs. Ducks are very abundant, and being night feeders, meditate quietly by the small lagoons until startled by the n©ise of the steam machinery. Pelicans glide over the water catching fish, while the scopus and large horons peer intently into pools. The large black and white spur-winged goose (a constant marauder of native gardens) springs up, and circles round to find out what the disturbance can be, and then settles down again with a splash. Hundreds of linongolos rise on the wing from the clumps o*" reeds, or low trees, on which they build in colonies, and are speedily hi^^h in mid-air. Charming little red and yellow weavers remind one of butterflies, as they fly in and out of the tall grass, or hang to the mouths of their pen- jlant nests, chattering briskly to their mates within. Kites and vultures are busy overhead, viewing the ground for their repast of carrion ; and the solemn-looking, stately-stepping flamingoes, with «» taste for dead BATTLING WITH DIFFICULrlES AND DANGERS. 20? -fish or men, stalk slowly along the almost stagnant channels. Groups ot men and boys are searching diligently in various places for lotus ami otlier roots. Some are standing in canoes, on the weed-covered ponds, spearing fish, while others are punting over the small intersecting streams to examine their sunken fish-baskets. j?^5*^^^i^E GROUP OF FLAMINGOES. Towards evening, hundreds of pretty little hawks are seen flying in a southerly direction, and feeding on dragon-flies and locusts. They come, ripparently, from resting on the palm trees during the heat of the day. Flocks of scissor-bills are then also cfn the wing, and in search of fqodt U *'m ; iV ft J m I' ;: XI ,k;; ).;■ . i' * 210 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ploughing the water with their lower mandibles, which are nearly half aa inch longer than the upper ones. At the north-eastern end of the marsh, and about three miles from the river, commences a great forest of palm trees. It extends many miles, and at one point comes close to the river. The gray trunks and green tops of this imjncnse mass of trees give a pleasing tone of color to the view. The mountain range, which rises close behind the palms, is generally of a cheerful green, and has many trees, with patches' of a lighter tint among them, as if spots of land had once beer; cultivated. The sharp angular rocks and dells on its sides have the appearance of a huge crystal broken ; and this is so often the case in Africa that one can guess pretty nearly at sight whether a range is of the old crystalline I'ocks or not. The borassus, though not an oil-bearing palm, is a useful tree. The fibrous pulp round the jargc nuts is of a sweet, fruity taste, and is eaten by men and elephants. The natives bury the nuts until the kernels begin to sprout ; when dug up and broken, the inside resembles coarse potatoes, and is prized in times of scarcity as nutritious food. During several months of the year palm- wine, or sura, is obtained in large quantities; when fresh, it is a pleasant drink, somewhat like champagne, and not at all intoxicating; though, after standing a few nours, it becomes highly so. Vegetable Champagne. Sticks, a foot long, are driven into notches in the hard outside of the tree — the inside being soft or hollow — to serve as a ladder ; the top of the fruit-shoot is cut off, and the sap, pouring out at the fresh wound, is caught in an earthen pot, which is hung at the point. A thin slice is taken off the end, to open the pores and make the juice flow eveiy time the owner ascends to empty the pot. Temporary huts are erected in the forest, and men and boys remain by their respective trees day and night ; the nuts, fish and wine being their sole food. The Por- tuguese use the palm-wine as yeast, and it makes bread so light that it melts in the mouth like froth. Above the palm-l;ree«, a succession of rich, low islands stud the river Many of them are cultivated and grow maize at all times of the year. Some patches ripe arc seen, and others half-grown, or just sprouting out of the ground. The shores are adorned with rows of banana-trees, and the fruit is abundant and cheap. Many of the reedy banks are so inter- twined with convolvulus, and other creepers, as to be absolutely impene- trable. They are beautiful to the eye, a smooth wal! of living green ris'ngoutof the crystal water, and adorned with lovely flowers; but sa tund, thin low are ;rces Tor- lat it river, year, out , and inter- pcne- green lUt sa CURIOUS NEST OF THE FLAMINGO. (211) 212 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. dense that, if capsized in tlie water, one could scarcely pass through to land. Probably no tropical bird is more remarkable than the famous flamingo. The following incident is related by one of a party of travellers in Africa : Our path led through the forest near the banks of the river, of which we occasionally got glimpses. It was here of considerable width, bordered by mangrove bushes. In one or two places there were wide liats covered with reeds. Suddenly, as we passed a point of the river, I saw drawn up what had much the appearance, at the first glance, of a regiment of soldiers, with red coats and white trousers. "Why, where can those men have come from?" I cried out. A Begrimeiit of Birds. One of the party, who was near me, burst into a laugh, in which his sisters and the boys joined. "Why, those are birds," he answered. "A regiment, true enough, but of flamingoes; and see! they are in line, and will quickly march away as we approach." A second glance showed me that he was right; and a very curious appearance they had. "See! there is the sentinel." As he spoke, one of the birds nearest to us issued a sound like that of a trumpet, which was taken up by the remainder; and the \\ aole troop, expanding their flaming wings, rose with loud clamors into the air, flying up the stream. We went on, and cutting off a bend in the river, again met it; and here our bearers declared that they must stop and rest. We accordingly encamped, though our guide warned us that we must remain but a short time, as we wished to reach some higher ground before dark. A fire was lighted for cooking; and while our meal was preparing, I, with others, went down nearer the banks to see what was to be seen. We observed on the marshy ground a little way off a high mound, and creeping along, that we might not disturb the numerous birds which covered the banks or sat on the trees around, we caught sight of another mound, with a flamingo seated on the top of it, her long legs, instead of Ibeing tucked up as those of most birds would have been, literally astrad- dle on it. '* That is one of their nests," whispered one. " The bird is a hen sitting on her eggs. Depend upon it, the troop is not far off. See, see! there are many others along the banks. What a funny appearance they have." Bed Wings Sweeping Through the Air. Presently a flash of red appeared in the blue sky, and looking up, we saw what might be described as a great fiery triangle in the air sweeping down towards us. On it came, greatly diminishing its rate, and we then saw then appr( arran when rest ( diggii ^ith 1 they SL The tidi number^ long-lej white bi| of huge bills intc mous pJ BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 213 saw that it was composed of flamingoes. They hovered for a moment, then flew round and round, following one another, and gradually approached the marsh, on which they alighted. Immediately they arranged themselves as we had before seen them, in long lines, when several marched off on either side to act as sentinels, while the rest commenced fishing. We could see them arching their necks and digging their long bills into the ground, while they stirred up the mud ;vith their webbed feet, in order to procure the water-insects on which THE MARVELLOUS SPECTRAL LEMUR. they subsist. They, however, were not the only visitors to the river. The tide was low, and on every mud-bank or exposed spot countless numbers of birds were collected — numerous kinds of gulls, herons, and long-legged cranes — besides which, on the trees were perched thousands of white birds, looking at a distance like shining white flowers. Vast flocks of huge pelicans were swimming along the stream, dipping their enormous bills into the water, and each time bringing up a fish. They have enor- mous pouches, capable of containing many pounds of their finny prey. rf 214 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Other forms of animal life abound in the Tropics, and not the least marvellous of these is the spectral lemur. Lemur is the name applied to about thirty species of monkeys. They are divided into five principal genera, inhabiting chiefly Madagascar, a few living in Africa and the warm regions of Asia and its archipelago. The animals have two sharp claws on each hind foot, all their other nails are flat. In their habits and economy, as well as in their hand-like paws, the lemurs are like the other monkeys. They principally differ from those animals in the shape of the head, which is somewhat like that of a dog, and in the great length of their hind legs. The latter aie so long, that when the lemurs walk on all-fours, their haunches are consider- ably more elevated than the shoulders. But this structure is of great advantage to them in climbing trees. Many of the species are so active that they leap irom branch to branch with a rapidity which the eye is scarcely able to follow. The lemurs derive their name from their nocturnal habits and their noiseless move- ments. They live in the depths of the forests, and only move by night, the entire day being spent in sleep. Their food consists of fruits and insects which latter they take while they are sleeping. The spectral lemur is of a grayish-brown color, and lives in some of the forests of Africa, its long tarsi, or hind legs enabling it to leap like a frog, and its curious eyes giving it a singular appearance. Scenes Along: the River's Baiilts. Surrounded by such tropical scenes as we have just described, with their wonderful specimens of animal life, Livingstone pursued his way. A country once very populous was nearly deserted on account of con- tinuous raids by slave hunters. A hippopotamus was shot, and, at the end of three days, it floated. As the boat was towing it, immense numbers of crocodiles followed, and it was necessary to fire at them to keep them off. It is said that the crocodile never eats fresh meat ; indeed, the more putrid it becomes, the better he enjoys his repast, as he can thus tear the carcass more easily. The corpse of a boy was seen floating by. Several crocodiles dashed a^ it, fightmg for their prey, and in a few seconds it disappeared. Sixty- Geven of the repulsive reptiles were seen on one bank. The natives eat the animal, but few who had witnessed the horrible food on which they banquet would willingly feed on their flesh. Their former companion, Mr. Thornton, her2 rejoined them. Hearing that the remaining members of the bishop's party were in want at Chi- bisa, he volunteered to carry over a supply of goats and sheep to them. ty- sat ley hi- . m m tt' i ym f ,*(:; (215) !' 'i ' i • I ^lil I'M 216 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Overcome by the fatigues of the journey, he was attacked by fever, which- terminated fatally in April, 1863. The whole of the once pleasant Shire valley was now a scene of wide- spread desolation. Fearful famine had devastated it, ?.nd the sights which met their eye in every direction were heart-rending. The ground was literally covered with human bones. Many had ended their career under the shade of trees, others under projecting crags of the hills, while others lay in their huts with closed doors, which, when opened, disclosed the mouldering corpse with a few rags round the loins, the skull fallen off tile pillow ; the little skeleton of a child that had perished first, was rolled up in a mat between two large skeletons. -, Transportingr the Boat Overland. Hoping that the "Lady Nyassa" might be the means of affording relief to sufferers across the lake, they hurried on with their work. She was unscrewed at a spot about five hundred yards below the first cataract, and they began to make a road over the portage of forty miles, by which she was to be carried piecemeal. Trees had to be cut down and stones removed. The first half-mile of road was formed up a gradual slope till two hundred feet above the river was reached, where a sensible difference in the climate was felt. Before much progress was made, Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone were seized with fever, and A was deemed absolutely necessary that they should be sent home. Soon afterwards Dr. Livingstone was himself attacked. The "Pioneer" meantime was roofed over and left in charge of the trustworthy gunner, Mr. Young. One day, an empty canoe was seen floating down with a woman swimming near it. The boat put off and brought her on board, when she was found to have an arrow-head in the middle of her back. A native cut it out, and, notwithstanding the fearful character of the wound, being fed liberally by Mr. Young, she re- covered. # About the middle of June the remaining members of the expedition started for the upper cataracts. Cotton of superior quality was seen dropping off the bushes, with no one to gather it. The huts in several villages were found entire, with mortars and stones for pound •''ig and grinding corn, empty corn safes and kitchen utensils, water and beer-pots untouched, but the doors were shut, as if the inhabitants had gone to search for roots or fruits and had never returned ; while in others, skele- tons were seen of persons who died apparently while endeavoring to reach something to allay the gnawings of hunger. Several journeys had been made over the portage, when, on returning BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 217 hich ade- hich was indcr while losed en off rolled jrding . She itaract, which ■mile of le river Before seized uld be d. of the ,s seen loff and ,w-head ing the she re- |)edition as seen I several 'ig and ter-pots Vone to [, skele- [ring to turning to the ship in July, they received a despatch from Earl Russell, directing- the return hctr.e of the expedition. Arrangements therefore were made to screw the " Lady Nyassa" together again, as the " Pioneer" could not move till the floods in December. In the meantime it was determined to make another trip to the lake in a boat to be carried overland past the cataracts. The same scenes were witnessed as before. Wild animals had taken possession of the ruins of a large village in which on their previous visit the inhabitants had been living in peace and plenty. They had no idea, having before kept closer to the river, of the number of villages, always apparently selected with a view to shade, existing in that region, all of which were now deserted. They at length reached a region which had hitherto escaped, where the people welcomed them with the greatest cordiality, and were willing to spare the small amount of food they had remaining for themselves. But even here news of war soon reached them, and they found that a tribe of Zulus, the Mazitu, were ravaging the country, and that the inhabitants were only safe within their stockades. They soon encountered men and women carrying grain towards these fortifications, and soon they came upon dead bodies, first one and then another, lying in postures assumed in mortal agony such as no painter can produce. Terror from Savagre Invaders, On their arrival at Chinsamba's stockade, they were told that the Mazitu had been repulsed thence the day before, and the sad sight of the numerous bodies of the slain showed the truth of the report. Chinsamba urged them not to proceed to the north-west, where the Mazitu had occupied the whole region, and they accordingly remained with him till September. After this they visited Chia Lakelet. On their way they met men and' women eagerly reaping the corn in haste, to convey it to the stockades^ while so much was found scattered along the paths by the Mazitu and the fugitives that some women were winnowing it from the sand. Dead bodies and burned villages showed that they were close upon the heels of the invaders. An:,ong the reeds on the banks of the lake was seen a continuous village of temporary huts in which the people had taken refuge from their invaders. Another extensive and interesting journey was taken in the neighbor- hood of the lake, and, on their return along the shores, they found the reeds still occupied by the^unhappy fugitives, who were already suffering fearfully from famine. Numbers of newly-made graves showed that InRIIV lilt It 1 ■J ill If ' i ci4 if. * V 1'! J. . II ill ni 218 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. many had already perished, and others had more the appearance of human skeletons than living beings. Altogether in this expedition they travelled seven hundred and sixty miles in a straight line, averaging about fifteen miles a day, and they reached the ship on the 1st of November, where all were found in good health and spirits. They were visited on board by an Ajawa chief named Kapeni, who asserted that he and his people would gladly receive the associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers. About the middle of December news reached them of the arrival of the successor of Bishop Mackenzie, but that gentleman, after spending a few months on the top of a mountain as high as Ben Nevis, at the mouth of the Shire, where there are few or no people to be taught, returned home, while six of the boys who had been reared by Bishop Mackenzie had been deserted and exposed to the risk of falling back into heathen- ism. The poor boys, however, managed to reach the ship, expressing their sorrow that they no longer had one to look after them, remarking that Bishop Mackenzie had a loving heart, and had been more than a father to them. In January, I864, the Shire suddenly rising, the " Pioneer" was once more got underway; but, her rudder being injured, she was delayed, and did not reach Morambala till February. Here they received on boird about thirty orphan boys and girls, and a few helpless widows who had been attached to Bishop Mackenzie's mission, and who could not be abandoned without bringing odium on the English name. The moment permission to embark was given, they all rushed into the boat, nearly swamping her in their eagerness to be safe on the " Pioneer's " deck. At the mouth of the Zambesi, they found Her Majesty's ships " Orestes " and " Ariel," when the former took the " Pioneer" in tow, and the latter the " Lady Nyassa," bound for Mozambique. After encoun- tering a heavy storm, when the little vessels behaved admirably, while the " Pioneer " was sent to the Cape, the " Lady Nyassa," under charge of Dr. Livingstone, proceeded by way of Zanzibar to Bombay, which they safely reached, though at times they thought their epitaph would be : " Left Zanzibar on the 30th of April, 1 864, and never more heard of." ! * 1 CHAPTER X. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. Sensation Caused by Livingstone's Discoveries — New Expedition— Arrival at Zan- zibar—Hard March Across the Country— Desertion of Sepoys— Arrival on the Shores of the Lake — No Canoes —Report of Murders by Arabs— Desertions Among the Men— Story of Livingstone's Death— Excitement in England — Expe dition Sent to Learn the Explorer's Fate — Ravages by a Savage Tribe— Thieves in the Camp— Loss of the Medicine Chest — Sufferings from Fever — Arrival at Tanganyika— A New Lake on the West — Further Progress Stopped— Patient Waiting— Off for the New Lake at Last— Down the Lake to Cazembe's— High and Mighty Potentate— Formal Reception to Livingstone— Presents to the Chief- Shocking Stories of Human Sacrifices— Cropping off Ears and Lopping off Hands — A Tribe that Smelts Copper-ore— Hot Springs and Frequent Earth- quakes—Exploring Lake Bangweolo— Grave in the Forest—" Poor Mary Lies on Shupanga Brae " — Remarkable Discovery— Modesty of the Great Explorer. HE excitement caused in England by Livingstone's account of all that he had seen and done in his great journeys was intense. Men of science were eager to ascertain if the lakes of the South were connected with those of Central Africa, and, if so, by what means. One and all felt that the work begun must be carried on at what- ever cost. Missionary societies prepared to send members into the new and vast fields that had been opened. On every side arose a cry for new men, willing to risk their lives in the common cause vof humanity and geographical discovery. With the missionaries who responded to this appeal we have not now to deal, though we are glad to be able to add that quite a little colony went to work on the shores of the Nyassa. Our task is merely to trace the further progress Df the solution of the great problems of Central African geography, and it is with feelings of mingled joy and regret that we resume our narrative of the career of one of the greatest of all our heroes. We rejoice that Livingstone was spared to add yet another chapter to geographical science; we bitterly regret that our gain was purchased at the cost of a life so valuable as his. On his return to England in 1864, the great explorer would fain have retired from active service, and spent the evening of his life in settling the pecuniary affairs of his family and enjoying the society of his children. When asked by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, president of the Royal Geographical Society, to name a leader for a new expedition to (219) 1;'i Mm m 220 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. w'». resolve the problem of the watershed between the Nyassa and Tangan- yika, Livingstone at once fixed upon an eminent traveller, whose name is for obvious reasons withheld. That traveller declined to undertake the mission becau.se no sufficient remuneration was offered for his services, and in his disappointment, Sir Roderick appealed to Livingstone. Why could not he, who had already done so much, undertake this one more journey? Who so fit to complete the work as the experienced ex piorer who had begun it? Resolve to Return to Africa. For a moment, but only for a moment, our hero hesitated, and then he urged, almost apologetically, all the reasons against the undertak- ing of fresh responsibility by a man of the advanced age of fifty-three, who was already worn out by the fatigues of two previous jour- neys, each extending over several years. All objections were, how- ever, overruled, and before the interview closed Livingstone had con- sented to start for Zanzibar as soon as his book on the Zambesi was published. For this new expedition the English Government subscribed the sum of ^2,500, the Royal Geographical Society $2,500, and a private friend $5,000. Its main object was to explore the country between the Nyassa and Tanganyika, with a view to determining the relation of the two lakes to each other, but from first to last Livingstone never lost sight of the question — to him of equal importance — of the best means for benefiting the barbarous races in Africa. Our hero left England for the third and last time in August, 1865, scarcely more than a year after his return home from his Zambesi journey, and arrived in Zanzibar in January, 1866. He proposed penetrating to the Nyassa by way of the Rovunia River and those districts on the east of the lake inhabited by the dreaded Ajawa, but, except for this mere outline of a plan, he determined to be guided by circumstances, knowing from many a provoking experience how seldom any programme can be accurately carried out in African travel. Kindly received by the Sultan of Zanzibar, to whom he had first-rate letters of introduction, Livingstone was able to make the necessary arrangements for his journey with great rapidity, and by the beginning of March he had in his service, in addition to thirteen Sepoys from India, ten Johanna men, two Shapunga men, one of them the now celebrated Susi, two Wayans, the Chumah who with Susi remained with his master to the last, and a Wakatani. An Arab dhow was purchased for the transit to the Rovuma of the animals, consisting of six camels, three N N W H' (221) *:r-:^r II w .; 'Ml ■•' 5 I ^'% K ! 1 r f»11 1 ^f1;;:,| i % \ I :iim'i 222 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. buffaloes, two mule>?, and four donkeys, and large stores of merchandise and provisions. No pains, in short, were spared to ensure success, and on the 1 8th of March all was ready fo* the start. ; The Expedition Starts. The explorer and his retinue crossed from Zanzibar to the main land in Her Majesty's ship " Penguin," and after a rather disheartening exami- nation of the mouths of the Rovuma, Mikindany Bay, twenty-five miles above them, was fixed upon as the best spot for disembarkation. Living- stone and his people landed, the " Penguin " took her leave, and the work of the expedition may be said to have begun. A house on the sea-shore was hired at the rate of four dollars a month to form a kind of permanent storehouse ; the animals were disembarked from the dhow, carriers were engaged, and early in April the march to the south was commenced. The caravan wound slowly through dense jungle, which had to be cut down for the passage of the camels, though it offered no serious obstruc- tion to the men of the party, and, halting now at one, now at another Makonde village, arrived on the banks of the Rovuma, opposite the furthest point reached by the " Pioneer" in i866. The course was now due west, along the edge of " that ragged outline of table-land " which had been seen on the previous expedition as flanking both sides of the river. A rough path led, in winding fashion, from one village to another, all inhabited by Makonde, a degraded negro race, knowing nothing- -though they are in constant intercourse with Arabs — of God, of a future state, or of the commonest usages of civilized life. They pray to their mothers when dying or in distress, ana believe implicitly in the power of their doctors over life and death. The head- man of every village was also the doctor, Livingstone made several attempts to teach the Makonde the first principles of religion, but his ignorance of their language rendered all his efforts unsuccessful Cruel Drivers. In the middle of April the caravan turned southwards, and for the next two months a south-westerly course was pursued, through a mountainous and well-wooded country, peopled by the Mtambwe, said to be a branch of the Makonde. In this march the chief difficulty with which our here had to contend was the cruelty of his men to the animals, many of which were lamed by blows from their drivers, but whether with a view to retarding the journey, or from a wanton love of inflicting suffering, it was impossible to decide. The camels often came back from pasture bleeding from newly-inflicted wounds, and the buffaloes and mules were also soon 'covered with sores. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 22a In May a country comparatively free of wood was entered, in which it was possible to advance without perpetual cutting and clearing, and the same month the highest point of. the Rovuma reached by the " Pioneer "^ in 1862 was passed. Beyond came districts hitherto totally unknown to Europeans — though Roscher is supposed to have been in their neigh- borhood — where the natives, though not exactly unfriendly, did not readily supply food to the exploring party. Much coaxing and bargain- ing were required to obtain needed supplies, which were not always of the best quality, yet they were always dear. The country was suffering 224 Hi < • .f :' : J:. \ \ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. I from drought, and the people were in daily fear of raids from the Mazitu, a warlike race living on the southern banks of the Rovuma, who plunder and murder the ^uTounding tribes with savage recklessness. Miserably short marches were all that could be made on the small rations to which Livingstone was now obliged to reduce his men, but finally, all difficulties surmounted, the junction with the Loendi, supjjosed to be the parent stream of the Rovuma, was reached, and, crossing it with the help of a friendly chief called Matumora, our hero hoped to make /his way rapidly to Lake Nyassa, across the southern bank of the Rovuma. • Mutiny Among' the Sepoys. But now the Sepoys, who had long shown signs of insubordination, declared they would go no further, and inquiry revealed that they had offered Ali, the leader of the retinue, eight rupees to lake them to the coast. The Nassick boys followed their example. They would not go on to be starved; Livingstone must pay their wages and let them go. By continued threats and promises, however, a truce was patched up for a time, an4 the whole party crept on along the southern bank of the , Rovuma till the i8th June, when one of the Nassick boys died, and the Sepoys again rebelled. To make a long story short, we may add that, after several vain attempts to bind them to his service, Livingstone finally consented to the return of the Indians to Zanzibar, and that those who survived the journey to the coast arrived there in August or Sep- tember. They appear to have suffered greatly, and to have had some excuse for their unwillingness to proceed further in a country where death from starvation was the least of many evi's to be feared. Pressing on with his reduced numbers, Livingstone followed the course of the Rovuma until the ist July. Then leaving the river he entered the Ajavva country, and, traversing it in a south-westerly direction, came to Lake Nyassa at the confluence of the Nishinge, ii. August, to find liim- self once more amongst the friendly Manganja, to whom he had rendered such great services in 1861. The practicability of the shorter route to the Nyassa from the eastern coast was now proved beyond a doubt, and, overjoyed by the successful termination of the first stage of his journey, Livingstone eagerly set about endeavoring to cross the lake, hoping to reach an Arab settlement which he knew to exist on the western shore, with a view to making it the starting-point for Tanganyika. In this plan our hero was disappointed. After trying for nearly a month to persuade firFl one and then another native chief to lend him a h LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 225 canoe, Livingstone finally determined to go southwards round Cape Maclear and ascend the lake on the other side. In this he was success- ful, and we soon find him marchmg across the base of the promontory, with the singular addition to his retinue of two Ajawa, who acted as guides and carriers, much to their o./n surprise, and, that of everybody else, this tribe seldom condescending to do any work but fighting. A Courteous Chief. The villa^^e of Marenga, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom of ihe heel of the lake, was entered, inhabited by a tribe called Babisa, who had lately joined with the Ajawa in their raids upon the Manganja. The chief of this village, who was suffering from a loathsome skin disease introduced into the country by the Arabs, received Livingstone cour- teously, but allowed him to proceed northwards without warning him that the Mazitu were ravaging the country through which he must pass. Late in September an Arab met the party, and told Musa, one of the Johanna men, that all who ventured further would certainly be murdered;, fgrty-four Arabs had been killed at Kasungu ; he only had escaped to tell the tale. Surprised that he had heard nothing of this from Marenga, and half suspecting foul play, Livingstone lost no time in returning to that chief to inquire if there were any foundation for the story. The reply received was to the effect that it might be true. The natives were very- bitter against the Arabs, who were gradually destroying their country. They would allow no more to settle amongst them, but their hostility would not extend to Livingstone or his people, and there were no Mazitu where he was going. Completely reassured himself, Livingstone determined to proceed, but the Johanna men had taken alarm. " Musa's eyes stood out with terror." He said, speaking of Marenga, " I no can believe that man ; " and when Livingstone inquired how he came to give such ready credence to the Arab, he answered, " I ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true." Reasoning r.nd persuasion were alike in vain. Convinced that they and ;heir master were doomed, the Johanna resolutely declined to go further and when the start was again made they went off in a body, le-wing their loads on the ground. Report of Livin^irstone's Death* This was the true origin of the report, long believed in England, of the murder of Livingstone by natives on the western shores of Lake Nyassai The deserters made their way back to Zanzibar, and, anxious to excuse 15 226 WONDERS OF THE TROIMCS. 11 !#• h? f^'iii' Vr. th^.'r own conduct, and explain tl.eir sudden return, related the following plausible story : The expedition had safely reached Lake Nyassa and crossed it. The doctor then pushed on westwards, and in course of time reached Goo- mani, a fishing village on a river. Thv*? people of Goomani warned Livingstone that the Mafites, a wandering predatory tribe, were out on a plundering expedition, and that it would not be safe to continue the jour- ney ; but the dangers thus presented to view were not of a nature tc deter a man who had braved so many before. Treating the warnings as of little moment, therefore, he crossed the river in canoes the next morn- ing, with his baggage and his train of followers. All the baggai^^e animals had perished from want of water before this river was reached, so that the luggage had to be carried by the men. Being a fast M-alker, Livingstone soon distanced all his heavily-laden followers except Musa, and two or three others who kept up with him. Miisa's Story. The march had continued some distance, when Dr. Livingstone saw three armed men ahead, and thereupon he called out to Musa, " The }'[afites are out after all !" These were the last words he uttered. The Mafites, armed with bows and arrows and axes, closed UDon the doctor, who drew his revolver and shot two. The third, however, got behind him, and with one blow from an axe clove in his head. The wound was mortal, but the assassin quickly met his own doom, for a bullet from Musa's musket passed through his body, and the murderer fell dead beside his victim. Musa added that the doctor died instantly, and that, finding the Mafites were out, he ran back to the baggage-men, and told them that their master had been killed. The baggage was then abandoned, and the whole party sought safety by a hasty flight, which they continued till sunset, when th.2y took refuge for the night in a jungle. 1 he next day they returned to the scene of the disasler, and found Livingstone's body lyin^i; on the ground naked but for the trousers, the rest of his clothing having been stolen. A he le was hastily " scratched " in the ground, and t!ie explorer was buried. No papers or any other means of identification were recovered, and, broken-hearted at the loss of their beloved master, the Johanna men started for the coast, enduring great hardships by the way, but finally arriving safely in Zanzibar. To this tale all the faithless serv^ants adhered through one cross-exami- nation after another, and it was very generally believed, until Sir Roder- ick ,\Iurchison, in a letter to the Tiincs, pointed out several flaws in the The 1, for a irer fell iMafites it their whole sunset, y they having nd the fication master, by the -exanii- Roder- in the 3 ?3 /. -■i ■A A 73 ufl. i-*, I I III 1 •'I ii (227) •T' 1 i ■f! r 1 ■; }'■ 1 .'. fi ' i i'li , 1 ■* -B 1 ■ n 1 1 .; vi ■s- ■ ; 1 ii't? :m '^ Mi' I i V V-h' I. ^ llf 1 ■ i EJ.--? ' '^HfflWP i^ - -: .. V ^' Sf. '. >" \ ^»H' I) w^:, ''■'■—' 228 wondp:rs of the tropics. ingenious fabrication, proposing at the same time that an expedition should be sent to the western shores of Lake Nyassa to examine into the truth of the report. The English Government promptly seized this surr- gestion; volunteers were called for, and hundreds of brave men eagerly offered their services. Mr. Edward Daniel Young was selected to -take i:he command, and left England on the i ith of June, i86»>. Yoiiii^'s Seaix'li Expedition. In a trip extending over less than five months, tlie gallant officer com- pletely proved the falsity of Musa's account, obtained trustworthy evi- dence of Livingstone's continued health and activity, and in October embarked for England, where the news he brought was received witli* unbounded enthusiasm. Meanwhile, Livingstone, ignorant alike of the report of his death and of the efforts being made on his behalf, quietly reflects in his journal tiiat he is not sorry to have got rid of the Johanna men, they were such invet- erate thieves. Pressing on with his small retinue, now reduced to the surviving Nassick boys and the Shapunga and Ajawa men, Livingstone reached a village at the foot of Mount Mulundini, on the west of the heel of the Nyassa, and, obtaining there confirmation of the reports of disturbances on the north, determined to go west amongst the Manganja, here called Maravi. This resolution was attended with the best results. Courteously received at every village, and supplied with guides to the next, our hero passed safely through a beautiful mountainous country, till he came to the hamlet of Pamiala, where he turned southwards, and, pursuing a zig-zag course, reached Chipanga, the most southerly point of his journey. A short march westward from Chipanga, brought the party to a village called Theresa, beyond which the course was north-easterly, and throuc^h districts hithcto totally unknown to Europeans. One river after another, flowing towards Lake Nyassa, was crossed, and all seemed likely to go well, when, in October, after a successful hunt, in which a fine hartebecst antelope was shot, came news, from villagers flying southwards foi their lives, that the Mazitu were out and close at hand. Alirni and Flight. The servants, who were eagerly anticipating a hearty supper, such a« rarely fell to their lot, started to their feet, the half-cooked meat ua-: hastily packed, and Livingstone and his guide Mpanda set out to engage extra carriers to aid in the retreat. As they approached the next village, however, the inhabitants poured m ?*''« Mraiglit iliTfcrcd Most i'ld fillt •stand th^ of these •Hiiong t {^really ii " The i'nuortan LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 229 out The Mazitu were there, too, and the te/rifieti people were fleeing to I ho Zkilanyama mountains, on the south-west. Mpanda and his n:cn now wislie I to go home and look after their own property, but IJ\'ingstone managed to persuade them to remain, and follow with him " the spoor of the fugitives." Taking his stand at the foot of the rocky sides of the Zalanyama range, now crowded with trembling natives, our hero intended U) djL'nd his property to the last ; but after waiting some time he heard that the enemy had gone to the south. Mad he carried out his first scheme of going forward in search of men, he would have walked LIVINGSTONE AND HIS MEN CROSSING A SPONGE Straight into the hands of the Mazitu, and his fate would probably have differed but little from that assigned to him in Musa's story. Most of the region before these mountains are reached is lowlands, ind filled with "sponges;" Livingstone's description of the latter will stand the reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention' of these obstructions in the later travels towards the north. They were aniong the most formidable obstacles he had to encounter, and at times }!;rcally impeded his progrcs "The bogs, or earthen sponges, of this countr}', occupy a most important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the I i it, 1 i 1 1 i rjl; . It'll li'. f-vm •i» iil^ k 2:10 WONDK^.S OF THK TKOF'ICS. i»nmial i.iundatitms of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sli)pint». ^^arcls a iianovv ojK'nin^ in liills or hi<;licr ground exists, there we have conditions reijuisite for the formation of an African sponge. Thi' vegetation, not being of a healthy or peat-forming kind, falls down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of this loam, two or three (cct thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand, which is revealed by crabs ami other atjuatic animals bringing it to the surface: At present, vn the dry season, the black Ic. m is cracked in all direc- tijns, and the cracks are often as much as three inches wide, and very deep. "The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests on the sand, but when fho 'n'n;: come, ♦^he first sup;)ly is nearly all absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, aiul floats on the sand. The narrow opening prevents it fioin moving off in a landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. 'Ml die pools in the lower portion of this spring- course arc filled by the first rains, which happen south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over any si)ot. The second, or greater rhins, happen in his course north again, when all the b >gs and rive.- courses being wet, the supply runs off, and forms the iiiundation : this was certainly the case as observed on the Zambesi and S'.iire, and, taking the different times for the sun's passage north of the equator, it explains the inundation of the Nile." So satuia^ed was the soil with moisture, that for days solid land was not to be found. Where there was not absolute swamp and mire, the ground was covered with a matted green carpet — a thin Tust of vegeta- tion and soil covering " the waters under the earth " — which rose and fell a foot at eacli step. These treacherous places had to be crossed with a light step, and without pausing, for at the least delay the foot might slip through the floating mass, and the imhappy traveller plunge up to the armpits in mire. Firo and Desolation. As the journey westward was pursued, the smoke of burning villages on the «"ast and on the south plainly marked the course of the n'arauder.s, and, thankful for his narrow escaj)e, Living.stone pressed on as rapidly as possible to the village of Mapino, beyond which he could only advance verj' slowly, as the country was thinly peopled, and food and water v.er^^ scarce. The constant raids of marauders from the north md the visits of Arab slave-traders from the south had, moreover, reiidcred the natives suspicious and inhospitable, but, as in his previous journeys, Living- stone everywhere succeeded in overcoming the prejudice pgainst white LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 231 men, and convincing the poor down-trodden people that he meant them nothing but good. In November, the foot of Mount Chisia was reached, and a halt was made at a blacksmith's or founder's village, where Livingstone was inter- ested in witnessing the primitive native mode of smelting iron, and wa.s watching the erection of a furnace on an ant-hill, when the feeling of security was again dispelled by tidings of the approach of the Mazitu, They were already, said the messenger, at the village on the norths which was to have been the next halting-place. The head-man of the village at once urged Livingstone to remain with him till it was certain which path the hated invaders would take, and the women were all sent away, whilst the men went on quietly with their usual occupations. l',o Mazitu cime, but an elephant approached Livingstone's camp and " screamed at him," making off, however, at the shouting of the villagers. The next morning the march was resumed, and the Mazitu having been fortunately avoided, the source of the Bua, a tributary of the Loangwa, was reached, beyond which a halt was made outside a stockaded village, where the people refused to admit our hero until thj head-man came and gave permission. This was a foretaste of many similar difficulties, but slowly, very slowly, step by step and inch by inch, the advance north- wards continued, now broken by illness, now hindered by roundabout excursions in search of the way. A Serious Loss. In December, the banks of the Loangwa were sighted, and, unable to obtain food at the village on its eastern shores, Livingstone crossed the stream without a guide, and beyond it entered a " pathless, bushy country," where the way had to be cut step by step by the almost faint- ing travellers. To give the merest outlines of the difficulties surmounted, the dangers escaped, and the privations endured as the gallant little band advanced further and further into the unknown interior, would be to fill a volume. \Vc must content ourselves with stating that a climax appears to have been reached in January, 1867, when, after plodding on under heavy ;ains through a famine-stricken country, and crossing the river Cham- beze, afterwards under its name of the Lualaba discovered to be of such vast importance, which comes down from the western .slope of Lobisa, our \\f.vo was deserted by the two Ajawa men mentioned as having joined his party at Lake Nyassa. The loss of two carriers was bad enough, but, to complicate matters still further, they took with them the I,- t ' y Pl{ i'll ijl •H <: I t I' I5PI J ■ '' 232 WONDERS OK THE TROPICS. medicine-box for the sake of the cloth, and some clothes belonging to a boy named Baraka, in which were packed a quantity of flour, the tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch. Livingstone, in relating the incident in his journal, remarks pathetically that the thieves would, of course, only throw away the valuable contents of the medicine-box when they discovered their nature, adding that he felt as if he had now received the sentence of death. " There can be little doubt," says Mr. Waller, editor of Livingstone's Journal, "that the severity of his subsequent illnesses mainly turned upon the loss of his medicines, and it is hardly too much to believe that his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the effects of fever- poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to the want of quinine." Before quoting Livingstone's account of this loss it may be well to explain that after the desertion of the Johanna men he was obligLxi to rely on the natives through whose districts he passed not only for guides but for porters. The following is the narrative : "A guide refused, so we marched without one. The two Waiyaii, who joined us at Kande's village, now deserted. They had been verv faithful all the way, and took our past in every case. Knowing the lan- guage well, they were extremely useful, and no one thought that they would desert, for they were free men — their masters had been killed by the Mazitu — and this circumstance, and their uniform good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have done any others who had been slaves. But they left us in the forest, and heavy rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their footsteps. To make the loss more gall- ing, t'hcy took what we could least spare — the medicine-box, which they would only throw away as soon as they came to examine their booty. The Thieves Escape. " One of these deserters exchanged his load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had charge of the medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done, because with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of getting a glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the Chambeze, the tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch ; but the medicine- chest was the sorest loss of all ! I felt as if I had now received the sen- tence of death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTLNEXT. 2;)3 "All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies; other losses and ann.>yances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent of vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and certainly not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an explorer anxious to benefit a country and people — but this loss I feel most keenly." Every effort was made to intercept the runaways and recover the precious box; but they were fruitless, and it was not until Living- stone met Stanley at Ujiji five years later that he was again supplied with those medicines with )ut which travel in Africa is so deadly. After crossing the Chambeze Livingstone found himself in a country called Lobemba, and late in January reached the village of the head chief Chitapanga. Chitapanga gave the travellers a grand reception and made a favorable impression upon Livingstone at first by his jolly good- nature; but subsequently he exhibited on a small scale all the rapacity of Kamrasi, and Livingstone was glad to get away after a stay of a few tiays. Iiitepvlew with a Great Chief. The stockade of Chitapanga was quite a formidable-looking structure. Besides a triple stockade, the village was defended by a deep, broad ditch, and hedge of thorny shrub. The messengers from the great chief soon approached to inquire if the traveller desired an audience, and instructing him that their custom required every one to take something in his hand the first time he came before so great a man as Chitapanga. Being tired from marching, Liv- ingstone deferred his visit to the chief until evening. At. 5 p. m, he sent notice of his coming. Passing through the inner stockade and then on to an enormous hut, he entered the presence of the chief. His Majesty was seated on the three-legged stool, which is one of the peculiar institu- tions of the country. Near him were three drummers, beating furiously, and ten or more men with odd-looking rattles in tlieir hands, with which they kept time to the drums, while seated and standing all about in the background were hundreds of eager subjects, who gazed with deepest interest on the reception. A noticeable feature of the ceremony was the regular approaching and receding of the rattlers, who seemed to give to their chief some special reverence by advancing toward him and holding their toy-looking instruments quite near the ground, while they kept up still with the drummers. Chitapanga was a strongly-built burly-looking fellow, with a jolly, laughing face. Livingstone was seated on a huge tusk, and the talk C,vl I ^»: f} ■ Ilj if ■< I'^^i ¥\ V ) ( Hli lu 234 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. bey an. f ... i lie found little difificulty in interesting the chief in those things which he had to tell, and was treated with a respect and cordiality which impressed him very favorably with him. When they had got a little acquainted, the chief walked with his visitor toward a group of cows and with a generous air pointed out one and said, " That is yours." Various circumstances conspired to protract the stay of Livingstone twenty days at this village. Though quite favorably impressed with Chitapanga, the necessity of holding all his interviews through others jave rise to serious annoyances. He was particulaily troubled and vexed, after killing the cow which had been given him, by the chief's demand- ing a blanket for it. This was more annoying because he had none except such as belonged to the men who were with him. Tricks of Lying Interpreters. This demand was pressed, however, and it at length turned out that one of the Nassick lads, who had acted as interpreter at their interviews, had not stated the conversation correctly. The chief had given the cow, expecting a blanket, but the boy had said to Livingstone, " He says ycni may give him any little thing you please." This presumptuous interference of interpreters is one of the most serious annoyances of travelling in aii\' country; particularly is it so in Africa: not only Dr. Livingstone but many travellers there have been greatly troubled by it. At this village Livingstone met a party of small black Arab slave- traders from Bagamoio, on the coast near Zanzibar, by whom he was able to send a packet of letters, which reached England safely and greatly relieved the public mind concerning the great traveller, who had been reported dead by Musa after he had so heartlessly deserted him near Nyassa. These Arab traders had come into the country by a much nearer route: a route too which was full of villages and people who had plenty of goats. Jiy these men Livingstone ordered another supply of cloth and beads and a small quantity of coffee and sugar, candles, pre- served meats, etc., with some ni'^ilicines, to be sent to Ujiji. Little else occurred during the stay with Chitapanga worthy of special mention. The frequent returns of illness were nothing uncommon now. (t was sad indeed to be so great a sufferer, and deprived of the relief 'vhich he could have found in his medicine-box. We cannot imagine a more painful experience than the consciousness of failing health in a far away heathen land without a single remedy at hand. At length, after repeated misunderstandings and compromises with Chitapanga, all growing out of the unpardonable interference of the boys, who presumed to interpret the conversation according to their ideas o^ o •A O JO t/l y. p) 14- r (285) 236 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. i u: what it was best should be said, Dr. Livingstone prepared to leave. He says: < ,<,.,. ui<-/. ... . , ., " I told the chief before starting that my heart was sore because he was not sending me away so cordially as I Hked. He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife with ivory sheath, which he had long worn as a memoria'. He explained that we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we reached the Lake Tan- ganyika ; he took a piece of clay off the ground and rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and came along with us to see that all was right ; and so we parted." The Bold Discoverer Turned A»idc. Holding a north-westerly course from this point, numerous small rivers and rivulets were crossed, and in March, he came in sight of Lake Liemba, which subsequent expl'^'-?.tion proved to be the southern ex- tremity of Tanganyika. It was Livingstone's dcsi'-e to march up the shore of the lake and discover at once what its northern connections were; but news of a Mazitu raid in that direction compc led him to desist, and he concluded to strike westward, visit Casembe, and explore Lake Moero, of which he had already heard rumors. This plan he carried out fully, in spite of many delays; and after his arrival at Casembe's town, he wrote a despatch to Lord Clarendon, dated Decem- ber loth, 1867 (which,, however, was never sent), in which he gives an epitomized description of his travels, and of his stay at Casembe.- This despatch is especially valuable because it treats of the geography of the whole district between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, and we reproduce it nearly entire: The altitude of this upland is from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is generally covered with forest, well watered by numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold. The soil is very rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated. This is the watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the Zambesi, and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the latter, the most remarkable is the Chambeze, for it assists in the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times in the five or six hundred miles of its course. On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded north- wards, perceived by t'te barometers and the courses of numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. A friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that ! wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his comtrv, rave his son with a large escort to guide me thither; [ft ■ tJ - : ' ^i' « i;'. "ii LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 237 re. He luse he ordered I, which it to go to turn ke Tan- t on his ith us to all rivers of Lake hern ex- 1 up the inections 1 him to 1 explore ; plan he irrival at Decem- gives an De.- This ly of the roduce it the level lumerous Id yields /een the lich flow liambeze, Inie three [d north- rivulets, Ijiu chiff, |a, which thither ; and early in April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in which the lake reposes. The descent is 2,000 feet, and still the surface of the water is upwards of 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. Bcaiititul Cascades. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes the rocks run the whole 2,000 feet sheer down to the water. Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the clififs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered with well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks protrude. The scenery is extremely beautiful. A stream of fifteen yards broad and thigh deep came down alongside our precipitous path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These, with the bright red of the clay schists among the greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants abound on the steep slopes ; and hippopotomi, crocodiles, and fish swarm in the water. Gnus may live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their big ears just outside the village stock- ades. One got out of our way on to a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared at us. Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man. The first village we came to on the banks of the lake had a grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm-tree was not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast. Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. We remained six weeks on the shores of the lake, trying to pick up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. But our friends, the Biiulungu, suspect- ing that mischief was meant, stoutly denied that they had seen anything of the sort and then became very urgent that I should go on to one of the inhabited islands for safety. Ciinuiti^ Natives. « ■ I regret that I suspected them of intending to make nie a prisoner there, which they could easily have done by removing the canoes j but when the villagers who deceived the Arabs told me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they had managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my safety. On three occasions the same friendly dis- position was shown ; and when we went round the west side of the lake if i':t h- 238 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. in order to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the hea,l-mai at the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my going — the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for an Arab, and killed — that I felt half-inclined to believe him. Two Arab slave entered the village the same afternoon in search of ivory, and coiifirmeo all he had said. * We now altered our course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that thf head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles farther. They had found ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a chief named Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They were now at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's village, I found them about 600 in all ; and, on presenting a letter I had from the Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions, beads, and rloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the sojth of Nsama's countrj', but advised waiting till the effects of punishment, which the Baulungu had resolved to inflict on Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had always been understood that whoever brought goods into the country was to be protected ; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would leave nie a free passage through his country ; if to the south, I might be saved from walking into his hands. Xot Anximis to Marry an Africaii Fselle. But it turned out thai; Nsama was an.xious for peace. He bad sent two men with elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation ; but treachery was suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with ten gcats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods vere not all sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach the lake. The peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, s tedious process, occupying three and a half months drinking each other's blood. I thought that had I been an Arab I could easily swallow that but not the ne.xt means of cementing the peace — marrying a black wife Nsama's daughter wa.s the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came riding pickaback on a man's shoulders; this is the most dignified conveyance that chiefs and their families can command. She had ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of provisions, and all he zing the same beautiful features as herself. She was taken by the principal Arab, LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 239 V going n Arab, b slaves 311 firm CO : district that Wv id found ly a chief ,vere now , I found le Sultan nd floth. ; country, Riiulungu cnown. It le country mba's, the ;, It was cave tne a be saved had sent [chcry was with ten fad Arabs. for Lake could be lowever, a kh other's lUow that black wife. :tty. She dignified le had ten ./ing the ipal Arab, but soon showed that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected tliat her father was to be attacked, and made her escape. I then visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near A CHIKK's most Dir.NIFIF.D CONVKVANCF., bim, took only three of my eight atton hints. His people were /e*^- nuich afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see if I had any con- cealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with head and face like those .sculptured on the Assyrian monuments. Me has betn a great \i ■' ' ' '■' ■sir V- ;* ■..