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ONDERS

#Tro

ROPICS

EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES

HENRY M. STANLEY

AND OTHER WORLD -RENOWNED TRAVELERS*

INCLUDING

J^ivingstone, ^aker, Cameron, Speke, ^min f asha,
Pu Chaillu, Ai^dersson, etc., etc.

CONTAINING

^hPillingMccount^ of Famous Expeditions,

MIRACUI.OUS ESCAPES, WIT-D SPORTS OF THE JUNGLE AND PLAIN,
CURIOUS CUSTOMS OF SAVAGE RACES, JOURNEYS IN UN-
KNOWN LANDS, AND MARVELOUS DISCOVERIES
* IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA,

TOGETHER WITH

GRAPHIC DESCRIPTIONS OF BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, FERTILE VALLEYS,

VAST FORESTS, MIGHTY RIVERS AND CATARACTS, INLAND SEAS,

MINES OF UNTOLD WEALTH, FEROCIOUS BEASTS, ETC., ETC.

THE WHOLE COMPRISING A

Vast Treasury of all that is Maroelous and Wonderful

IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

By henry davenport NORTHROP, D. D.,

Author of '* Earth, Sea, and Sky,*' etc., etc.

Embellished witli more than 200 gtril^ing Illustpations.

THE EARLE PUBLISHING HOUSE,

ST. JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK.

l^^'l

Ni 7

2S0065

filtered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by

J. R. JONES,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D, C

The ^^

greatest c

^ record (

times, des

fhe briljfa,

which ha^

admiration
The woi
Stanley's ej
y^^ng sold
Pondent of
-^^rica to fi
"^arveJous c
Stanley's f
The reader i
ships and per
richness and
scenery, the s
customs of its
Before the
\ the thickest J ui
monies a smoot
axe hews down
and crosses inl
have baffled the
The reader sh
after thQ most h

Stanley's next
Congo, is so fuj

r^-solution. that h

^'n^es. HevanisJ

;?°nths pass, and

Curiosity as to liis

,r»ole suspense. S(

PREFACE.

*^e Wonderful di ' ~

"""-h have awakeneH r°''°"' "'<='' ^^dbeit; ;.,'•'" '"^'""S^.

' Af-ca to find the Zf"'' "'"^ J°"">a! ""sud^' ^°'"" '^ '=°"-"^

Stanleys first great io, • '"'"'" "P°" his

The reader f„ii-'°''™«y 'n the Dart, r •

''''•P^andpe^ 'Tnd ■'"^ ""^'■'^ "plorrr^^.^-' ■--id/y descWbed
-"ness and t^Wety^:"™^^' "''"" *■■" '^m X^: f^^ °f his hard"'

' "xe hews down sturdtT' *'" *"'™a's "ee in h,' ^^ ''"^2^'' Pass be-

-d crosses .nlnTtf.T'n*^ '"^^'•' ""°e des'rV"' ^"-"n
have baffled the world fl; lu °"'' C°"«ne„t IZZ '^?'""'"S rapids

I The reader .shares til thrmT'^ °' y^^^^- "" "' ""^'^ ">«

after the most h», "" °f excitement i„

StanieyCL r;:,--ff , ""d' I-'V "J; oltd 'f'"''''' ^ ^'-^X.
Congo, is so full ^ I! ?''^°'" Zanzibar right acrn f^"'^' '"'' ''«di
'-■solution that V ^"'""^ adventure sf Jf' "'^~n«nenttoth,

months pass, and no i„T , "^'" "^ ">« cmTed^ IT"""" of our

Cfosityastohrsat^Cm^''"'' '=°-"" from heT' . IV^e"^' and

:"ble suspense. SeasonsXh:,' If '^' '"' '"^ -^- "Si ^''^'°'^^-

. ">— dsandstil,„oJJ;--oter-

PREAFCE.

After untold privations, daring deeds and amazing triumphs, Stanley
emerges from the wilds of the Dark Continent amidst the acclamations of
both hemispheres. The nineteenth century records no triumph more
sublime than that of crossing, from sea to sea, this wild country, which
had hitherto baffled all attempts to explore its silent mysteries. But the
dazzling achievements of our great hero were not completed, Emin
Pasha was located somewhere in the tropical wilderness, and struggling
to hold the country of which he was ruler. Again Stanley hastened to
the rescue ; again he was lost in the wilds of Africa ; again the interest
of the world was awakened concerning his fate; and in this last great
triumph he has put the climax upon all his previous explorations and
victories, having crossed the Dark Continent again, this time from west
to east.

This work also gives a full and thrilling account of the marvelous dis-
coveries of other world-renowned travelers in the Tropics. The reader
is made a fellow-explorer with the immortal Livingstone, who traversed
boundless regions where the foot of civilized man had never trod;
with Sir Samuel Baker, Speke and Grant, whose daring expeditions in
Central Africa place them in the front rank of modern heroes; with
Du Chaillu, Cameron, Andersson, Baldwin and others, whose undaunted
bravery in the face of danger, and victories over bloodthirsty savages and
wild beasts, have a resistless fascination.

A brilliant panorama of tropical wonders passes before the reader's
gaze. He traverses vast and fertile plains, luxuriant valleys and desert
wastes. He sees savage tribes in their curious costumes ; their strange
marriai^e customs ; their ludicrous superstitions ; their reckless deeds of
violence ; their monstrous social and religious rites, involving the frightful
sacrifice of human life. He witnesses grotesque war-dances ; singular
frealf s of medicine men and rain makers; and strange antics of wizards. He
beholds the majestic lion, the gigantic hippopotamus and fierce crocodile,
monkey tribes, gorillas and venomous boa-constrictors, the fleet-footed
ostrich, giraffe and zebra, the huge rhinoceros and bounding gazelle, and
the ponderous elephant jarring the earth with his heavy tread. He wit-
nesses the adventures of the chase, and deeds of daring surpassing the
most startling tales of romance. He is captivated with tropical birds
arrayed in plumage of unrivalled beauty, and with brilliant forms of insect
life, wonderful as the gigantic beasts of the plain and jungle.

Stanley's recent expedition for the relief of the world-renowned Emin
Pasha fixes upon him the gaze of all civilized peoples. The latest adven-
tures and discoveries are fully narrated in this work.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE.

A Remarkable Man— Solving the Mysteries of the Dark Continent— Stanley's Birth in
Wales — Sent in Early Life to the Almshouse at St. Asaph — A Teacher in Flint-
shire—Struggling to Obtain Means for an Education — The Restless Spirit Show-
ing itself— Seeking the New World— A Cabin Boy, Bound from Liverpool to New
Orleans— The Welsh Boy Adopted by Stanley of New Orleans — Honesty and
Capacity of the Boy— Death of Stanley's Benefactor— No Property Falls to the
Adopted Son — Stanley in California— A Free and Happy Life Among Bold Ad-
venturers — The School of Human Nature — Power of Endurance and Readiness
for Daring Enterprises — Carrying the Knapsack and Rifle — A Soldier in the
Confederate Army— Captured by Union Forces — Becomes Connected with the
New York Herald— Off for the Battle-field in Turkey— Robbed by Brigands-
Stanley Returns to England— The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse— Sent
by James Gordon Beijnett with the British Abyssinian Expedition — Stanley's
Messages First to Reach London — Livingstone Lost in Africa — Remarkable
Midnight Interview with Mr. Bennett— "Find Livingstone at any Cost" 17

CHAPTER IL

THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA.

Africa a World of Surprises and Wonders — ^Journeys of Livingstone — The Younj<
Scotch Boy — Born of Noble Parentage— An Ancestry of Sturdy Scotch Qualities-
David's Factory Life — Eager Thirst for Knowledge — Tending the Loom, with
One Eye on His Book — Studying Latin — A Lover of Heroic Deeds— Early
Promise of Rising to Distinction — Resolves to Become a Medical Missionary in
China — Departure for Africa — Physical Nerve and Endurance —Encounter with a
Ferocious Lion — Livingstone's Narrow Escape — Gordon Cumming's Descrip-
tion of the Noble Beast — A Powerful Animal — Beauty of the Lion — Roar ot the
Forest King— Frightful Ferocity — The Lion's Fearlessness — Requirements of
lion Hunters— Brave Character of Livingstone 33

CHAPTER III.
LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

Livingstone's Life Among the Backwains — An Intelligent Chief— Trying to Whip
the Heathen into Conver.-^ion — Appearance of the Backwains — Peculiar Head-
Dress— Expert Thieves— A Bewitched Kettle — A Horrible Deed— An African
Congress— Thrilling War Songs—Carrying oa War for Glory— Li vingstone'f.

(iii)

1^ I

CONTENTS.

Interest in this Tribe— Singular Superstitions— Medicine Men and Rain Doctors-
Barbarous Practices — Severe Training for Boys — The Girls' Ordeal— Romantic
Dances— Construction of Houses— Curious Burial Customs— Funeral Dances
Among the Latookas— An Active Chief— The Rich No Better Than the Poor-
Odd Decorations -Graceful Movements 47

I
t

CHAPTER IV.
A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

Livingstone's Great Interest in the Makololo Tribe — The Fate of Ancient Nations —
Extraordinary Changes in Southern Africa — Obscure Origin of the Hottentots-
Displaced by the More Powerful Kaffirs— The Great Chief of the Makololo—
Severe Punishment for Cowards — A Royal Young Snob — Fear of the Ferocious
Lion — Headlong Charge of the Buffalo upon Hunters — Livingstone's Story of
His Wagon — A Race in Eating — Frightful Battle with Hippopotami— Frail Boat
Surrounded by Ugly Brutes — Superior Makololo Women — Mode of Building
Houses — Strong Walls and Thatched Roofs— Strange Ideas of a Boatman —
Offenders Flung to Crocodiles— Dividing the Spoils of Hunting— Sports of
African Children— A Queen's Opinion of White People — Better Looking than
she Imagined— A Grotesque anii Exciting Dance 77

CHAPTER V.

PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS.

Remarkable Successes of Livingstone — Forming a Station in the Wilderness — The
Explorer Builds a House— . Search for a Great Lake— A Desert with Prodigious
Herds of Wild Animals— Starting on a Perilous Journey — Wagons Left in Charge
of Natives— Travelling in Frail Canoes — Haunts of the Hippopotami— Thrilling
Adventure with Crocodiles— Frantic Struggles to Escape from Death— Shooting
the Huge Monster— Seized with a Sudden Horror— A Great Splash and a Cry of
Joy— Ancient Crocodiles with Immense Jaws — Exciting Encounter with a
River-Horse— A Remarkable Chief— Rivers' and Swamps Breeding Fevers —
Reaching the Banks of the Zambesi— Prevalence of a Troublesome Fly — A
Magnificent River — Livingstone's Journey of a Thousand Miles with his Family —
Ma' cious Attack by the Dutch Boers — Livingstone's House Plundered — The
Explorer Reaches the Capital of the Makololo — Cqrdial Welcome from the
Natives — The Young King Has a Rival — Ascerding the Great River Zambesi —
Attempt on the Life of the King — Makololo Architecture — A Grand Dance —
Expedition to the West— The Balond^ Country— A Visit to Shinti— Scarcity ol
Food — Arrival at Loanda— Attacked by Savages— On the Leeba — Arrival at
Linyanti 98

CHAPTER VI.

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

Dangers of River Navigation— Luxuriant Wild Fruits—Skillful Management of Canoes
by Natives— Magnificent Scenery—Man Seized by a Crocodile— Beautiful Flowers
and Wild Honey— Strapping Chief\;aines3 Smeared with Fat and Red Ochre-
Pompous Chief— Curious Piano—Portujiuese Traders— Warm Reception to the

CONTENTS 1^

Explorers -Lifting off Roofs of Houses to Cover the Travellers— A Chief who Killed
His Subjects for Amusement— Remarkable Custom for Cementing Friendship-
Tricksters who Want Money— Livingstone Suffers from Fever— Savage Attack
upon the Expedition— U.-^ing Charm-; and Cupping for Sickness— Black Corpora!
for an Escort— Beautiful Country Going to Waste— Vast Herds of Cattle— An
Ornamental Garden — Natives Astonished by Strange Sights— Generous Gifts < f
Jolly Tars— "Stones that Burn"— An Attractive Town— The Irrepressible Doi •
key— Strange Belief in Evil Spirits -Grotesque Head-dressts— Fine Sport with
the Gun— The Expedition Travelling in Small Canoes — Livingstone Charged by
a Buffalo — Noisy Welcome to the Explorers— Troops of Elephants 103

CHAPTER VII.
ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

Livingstoyie's Resolve to Reach the East Coast— A Fine Race of Negroes— One hun-
dred and fourteen Trustworthy Men— The Brave Leaders of the Company — A
Terrib/e Storm— Sailing Down the River — Far famed Victoria Falls — Scene of
Extreme Beauty — Ascending Clouds of Spray — Immense Baobab Tree — Strange
Mode of Salutation— Traffic in Ivory— Buffalo Brought Down wilh the Rifle —
Presents from a Peace-loving Chief^Vast Numbers of Wild Animals — Huge
Hippopotami and their Young — How the Natives Capture Elephants — Strange
Appearance of the Natives — Mouths like those of Ducks— Hostilities by a Village
Chief— Remains of an Old Portuguese Settlement— The Do( tor's Ox Gallops off-
Strange Cries and Waving Fire-brands — Visit from two Old Men — American Cal-
ico in a Far Land— Surprising Instinct of the Elephant — The Enormous Beast
Taught to Work for his Master— A New Way of Laying Timbers— Remarkable
Story by an English Officer — Extraordinary Sagacity of the Elephant — Dangers
in the Path of the Expedition— Great Risk from Being Attacked by Lions- dread-
ful Encounter with a King of the Forest--A " Civilized Breakfast "—Kind Recep-
tion by an English Major—Natives who Plant Gold for Seed— Tree Supposed to
Have Remarkable Medical Virtues — Four Years away from Cape Town — Ravages
of Famine— A Chief who Wishes to Visit England— Seized wilh Insanity and Lost
Overboard— Livingstone arrives in England 137

CHAPTER VIII.

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

Fresh Start for a Long Exploring Tour— An English Steamer in African Waters-
Battle between the Portuguese and a Savage Chief— Rescue of the Governor—
The " Ma-Robert " Commences Her Voyage— Astonishment of the Natives-
Hardships of Travelling in the Tropics— A Swift Cataract -The Murchinson
Falls— A Chief Loses His Lhtle Girl— Natives Obstructing the Exiiediiion-
Searching for a Great Lake— Pursued by a Buffalo— Trap for the Hipp )pota
mus— Failure to Recover the Lost Child— Singular Ideas of Female Beauty Kear
ful Cry from the River— A Native's Deadly Combat with a Crocodile— Monsters
Hatched from E;,'gs— Discovery of the Great Lake— Scarcity of Water— Return
of the " Ma Robert "—A Conspicuous Fraud— Hostile Chief Conciliated— Abun-
dance of Game and Numerous Lions— Sketch of the Batoka Tribe— Peculiar
Fashion of Wearing the Hair— Masters of the Canoe-Perils among Breakers—

vi CONTENTS.

Very Polite Savages— Singular Customs and Ceremonies— Fearless Hunters— Na-
tive Belief in a Future Existence — Melodious Sounds of Music —African Poets —
Incorrigible Liars — Put to Death for Bewitching a Chief— Gang of Cattle Steal-
ers — Adventure with a River Horse — Man Saved on a Rock — Tropical Chame-
leon—A Marveleous Reptile— Shifting Colors — Seized by a Crocodile— Horse
and Rider Terribly Wounded 159

CHAPTER IX.

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

Setting Out in a Leaky Vessel — A Losing Adventure— Bishop Mackenzie's Arrival —
The " Pioneer" gets Aground— Description of a Well-known tribe— Farming in
Africa— Generous Hospitality— Remarkable Costumes — Elegant Tattooing —
Natives that Seldom Wash— An African Dancing Party— Belief in Visits from
Departed Spirits — Burning Villages— Battle vviih Ajawa Warriors— Transporting
the Boats Overland— Sudden and Terrific Storm — Air Thick with Midges-
Enormous Crocodiles— Camp Plundered by Thieves— Dangers Thicken — The
Expedition on its Return— Mrs. Livingstont's Arrival — Deaths of Bishop Mac-
kenzie and Mrs. Livingstone — Lonely Graves in a Strange Land — Bullets and
Poisoned Arrows— Immense Flocks of Beautiful Birds — The Fiery Flamingo —
Wine from the Palm— A Bird's Extraordinary N'est— Odd Specimen of the Monkey
Tribes — Deserted Country— Lord Russell Recalls the Expedition — Alarm from
Savage Invaders — The " Pioneer" Disabled— Livingstone at Bombay igo

CHAPTER X.
LIVINGSTONE LOST ' THE DARK CONTINENT.

Sensation Caused by Livingstone's ^ ver-is — New Expedition — Arrival at Zan-
zibar—Hard March Across the C ountry- -Desertion of Sepoys— Arrival on the
Shores of the Lake— No Canoes — Report of Murders by Arabs— Desertions
Among the Men— Story of Livingstone's Death— Excitement in England— Expe-
dition Sent to Learn the Explorer's Fate— Ravages by a Savage Tribe — Thieves
in the Camp— Loss of the Medicine Chest — Sufferings from Fever — Arrival at
Tanganyika— A New Lake on the West — Further Progress Stopped — Patient
Waiting — Off for the New Lake at Last — Down the Lake to Cazembe's— High
and Mighty Potentate— Formal Reception to Livingstone — Presents to the Chief-
Shocking Stories of Human Sacrifices— Cropping off Ears and Lopping off
Hands— A Tribe that Smelts Copper-ore— Hot Springs and Frequent Earth-
quakes — Exploring Lake Bangweoio— Grave in the Forest — " Poor Mary Lies on
iihupanga Brae " — Remarkable Discovery — Modesty of the Great Explorer.. ..219

CHAPTER XI.
TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

Gi eat Excitement Among the Natives by the Presence of a White Man — Cruise on a
Large Lake— Strike of Canoe-Men — Only a Coverlet with which to hire amther
Canoe— Food Obtained by Shooting BiifTaloes — Fine Sport for the Hunter — How
Uie Buffalo is Hunted— Thrilling Adventure with the Huge Brute— A Hotteatot

CONTENTS.

Iters— Na-
in Poets—
ittle Steal-
al Chame-
ile— Horse

159

R.S.

s Arrival —
Farming in
rattooing—
Visits from
ransporting
1 Midges—
icken — The
lishop Mac-
-Bullets and
Flamingo —
the Monkey
Alarm from
190

,NT.

val at Zan-
rival on the
-Desertions
and— Expe-
le— Thieves
— Arrival at
ed— Patient
ibe's-High
ihe Chief—
JLopping off
luent Earth-
ary Lies on
ilorer....2i9

.PES.

-Cruise on a
lire antther
inter— How
Hotteu^ot

Dodging in the Bushes— Terrible Foe— Adventure of a Friend of Livingstone—
A Dangerous Meeting with Two Lions— Charge of a Mad Buffalo— Livingstone
Pursues His Journey— A Country Convulsed by War— Mohammed and other
Arab Traders— Flight for Life— Livingstone Pacifies the Natives— Return of
Deserters— Start for Ujiji -Serious Illness— A Dauntless Ht ^—Encounter with
an Elephant— Beautiful Monkeys in the Forest— Thousands of Ants on the
March— Graphic Description of Manyuema— Degraded Tribe of Cannibals-
Market Scene in Manyuema— Terrible Massacre — Disastrous Attempt to Go
Forward— Lake Named after President Lincoln— The Explorer's Account of the
Soko— Freaks of a Strange Animal— A Wild Creature that Never Attacks
Women— Amusing Female Soko— Ten Men with Stores Meet Livingstone-
Shocking Barbarity— Hundreds of Lives Lost— Shameful Cruelty and Destruc-
tion — Off on Foot for Ujiji— Near to Death— People Who Eat Their Enemies-
Arrival at Ujiji— Sick, Worn out and in Desperate Straits ..246

CHAPTER XII.
STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

Livingstone Traced to Ujiji— Search Expedition Organized in England— Alarm and
Sorrow at the News of Livingstone's Death — News Discredited by Sir Roderick
Murchison— Mr. Young Sent Out to Find the Lost Explorer— The Little Steel
Vessel — The Expedition Hears of a White Man— Traces of Livingstone — Natives
Know Livingstone by His Photograph— Cheering News— Another Search Expe-
dition—Money Eagerly Subscribed— Men Selected for the Undertaking— Stanley
Leads the Way— Stanley on the March— Guides, Carriers and Donkeys — Band
Music and Lively Songs— Natives Carrying Heavy Burdens on their Heads —
Perils and Difficulties of the Journey — Qualities Required in an Explorer —
Tangled Brake and Wild Animals— The Ferocious Rhinoceros— Excitements of
the Chase— A Monster Fleet as a Gazelle— Conflict Between an Elephant and
Rhinoceros — Mr. Oswald s Narrow Escape — The Hunter Scarred for Life-
Stanley s Misfortunes — Sentence of Flogging on a Deserter — The Donkey Whip-
Daughter of an Infamous King — Urging Forward the Caravan - Sending Away a
Sick Man — Stanley Frightens an Arab Sheik — Across Marshes and Rivers — Half
Buried in a Swamp— Stanley's Graphic Account— Pursuit of a Runaway — The
Fugitive Captured— Two Dozen Lashes and Put in Irons— The Captor Re-
warded—Coral Beads for a Native's Wife 277

CHAPTER XIII.

STANLEY'S HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS.

Stanley's Marvellous Courage and Enterprise — Abundance of Supplies— Perils Sur-
rounding the Expedition— Paying Tribute to Chiefs— Dense Jungles and Thickets
of Thorns — A Country Teeming with Noble Game — A Merry Bugler and His
Horn — Stanley Invited to the House of a Sheik- Three Caravans Arrive in
Safety— Letters to Livingstone Long Delayed — Illness of Stanley — The Explorer
Senseless for Two Weeks— Shaw Again Breaks Down— Chief Mirambo Disputes
the March of the Expedition— Stanley Joins the Arab Forces — Deadly Encounter
with Mirambo — Stanley's Graphic Account of the Conflict — Mirambo Gets Hia
Foe into Ambush— Disastrous Defeat of the Arab Forces— Stanleys Hasty

H-

Vlll

CONTENTS.

Flight— Setting off Hurridly at Midnight— Urging Forward the Donkeys — Safe at
Last — Arab Boy Faithful to His American Master — News of Farquhar's Death-
Burning a Village— Mirambo Retreats — Stanley's Little Slave Boy— How the
Name Kalulu was Obtained — Shaw is Sent Back — Narrow Escape From a Croco-
dile — Capture of an Immense Reptile — A Traveler's Startling Adventure-
Mutiny in Stanley's Camp— Securing the Friendship of a Powerful Chief— Home
of the Lion and the Leopard— Stanley in Pursuit of Adventure— Encounter with
a Wild African Boar— Kalulu Badly Frightened— Crossing a Perilous River-
Exciting News of a White Man— Stanley Longs for a Horse — Expedition in High
Spirits — More Demand for Tribute — A Bivouac in Silence — Passing Through an
African Village— Great Alarm Among the Natives — Arrival at Last — March of
Two Hundred and Thirty six Days , 297

CHAPTER XIV.
STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

Stanley's Perseverance— Mastering Mountains of Difficulty — Bent on Finding Living-
stone — Characteristics of the Two Great Explorers — Livingstone's Touching
Reference to the Death of His Wife — W inderful Results of African Exploration —
Stanley Approaches Ujiji— News of a Brother White Man — Great Excitement
Among the Travellers — Unfurling Flags and Firing Guns — Ujiji Surprised by the
Coming of the Caravan— People Rushing by Hundreds to Meet Stanley — Joyous
Welcome — Meeting the Servant of Livingstone — Flags, Streamers and Greet-
ings — Livingstone's Surprise — ^The Great Travellers Face to Face — Stanley
Relating the News of the Past Six Years — Livingstone's Personal Appearance —
A Soldier from Unyanyembe— A Celebrated Letter Bag — Letters a Year Old —
Narrative of Great Events — What Livingstone Thought of Stanley's Arrival —
Letter to James Gordon Bennett— The Explorer's Forlorn Condition — On the
Eve of Death when Stanley Arrived — Livingstone Thrilled by Mr. Bennett's
Kindness— Some Account of the Country Visited— Discussing Future Plans —
Stanley's Description of Livingstone — Fine Example of the Anglo-Saxon Spirit —
Life Given to Ethiopia's Dusky Children — Livingstone's Marvellous Love for
Africa 317

! !

CHAPTER XV.

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY.

Stanley and Livingstone at Ujiji— Cruise on Lake Tanganyika — Giants of AfricaM
Discovery— Meeting Enemies Upon the Shores — Geographers who Never Travel
— Dusky Forms Dodging From Rock to Rock — Mountains Seven Thousand Feet
High— Important Discovery — Livingstone's Desperate Resolve — Stanley Leaves
for Zanzibar— Affecting Parting Between the Two Great Explorers— Living
stone's Intended Route— Later Search Expeditions — Livingstone's Sad and
Romantic History — Timely Arrival of Reinforcements from Stanley— Start for
the Southwest at Last Made— Without Food for Eight Days— Westward Once
More— Continued Plunging In and Out of Morasses — Turbid Rivers and Miry
Swamps— Natives Afraid of the White M.\n -Extract from the " Last Journals"—
Crossing the Chambeze— Gigantic Difficulties Encountered— Livingstone Again
Very III— " Pale, Bloodless and Weak from Profuse Bleeding "—Rotten Tents

CONTENTS.

-Safe at
Death—
[ow the
a Croco-
enture-
— Home
iter with
River-
in High
rough an
March of
297

jg Living-
Touching
•loration—
Excitement
sed by the
ey— Joyous
and Greet-
e— Stanley
pearance—
rear Old—
5 Arrival—
)n— On the
, Bennett's
ire Plans—
on Spirit-
is Love for
317

of Africa*
bver Travel
tusand Feet
iley Leaves
[rs— Living
Is Sad and
]r— Start for
[ward Once
Is and Miry
journals"—
[tone Again
lotten Tents

Tom to Shreds— The Last Service— Livingstone Carried on a Litter—The Doctof
Falls from His Donkey— A Night's Rest in a Hut— Natives Gather Round the
Litter— A Well known Chief Meets the Caravan— The Last Words Livingstone
Ever Wrote— The Dying Hero Slowly Carried by Faithful Attendants— The Last
Stage— Drowsiness and Insensibility — Lying Under the Broad Eaves of a Native
Hut — The Final Resting Place— Livingstone's Dying Words— The World's Gri::i'
Hero Dead — Sorrowful Procession to the Coast— Body Transported to England-
Funeral in Westminster Abbey — Crowds of Mourners and Eloquent Eulogies -
Inscription on the Casket 331

CHAPTER XVI.
STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

Stanley's Absorbing Interest in Livingstone's Explorations— His Resolve to Find a
Path from Sea to Sea— A Man of Remarkable Enterprise — Determined to Accom
plish His Object at Any Cost — Description of the Congo Region — Once the Most
Famous Kingdom of Africa — A King Glorious in Trinkets — People Prostrating
Themselves Before Their Monarch — The Whims of a Despot — Taxes Levied on
Furniture — Killing Husbands to Get Their Wives — Strange and Savage Cus-
toms — Messengers Collecting Slaves and Ivory— A Nation Famous as Elephant
Hunters and Men Stealers— Worship of a Wicked Deity— Priests with Absolute
Power— Sacred Fire Burning Continually— A Priest so Holy That He Cannot Die
a Natural Death— Test of Red Hot lion Applied to the Skin— How the Congoese
Disfigure Themselves— Outlandish Dress — Husbands Rebuked for Neglecting to
Beat Their Wives— Pipes and Palm Wine — A Notorious Queen — Followed by a
Host of Lovers — Horrible Practices— Slaughter of Male Children — The Queen's
Tragic End— Queen Shinga and Her Daring Exploits— Female Demon— Universal
Polygamy— Eating Habits of the Congo Tribes— Agonies of Indigestion— Singular
Modes of Salutation — Stanley's Description of Welcoming Strangers — Love for
Titles and Sounding Names— How Wives Manage Husbands — Famous Old King
of the Gaboon— King William's Principal Wife— A Monarch Arrayed in Scarlet-
Ferocious Tribes— Traders and Their Wares — Stanley's Description of the Coun-
try — Superstitions and Paganism — Animal Life in Congo— Antelopes, Zebras and
Buffaloes— Beautiful Monkey Tribe — ^Wild Attack of Cannibals— Immense War-
Boat — Everlasting Din of Drums — Horns Carved out of Elephants' Tusks— Wild
War Cry— Singular Temple of Ivory— Horrid Monument of Mud and Skulls. ..350

CHAPTER XVn.

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

The Greatest Feat on Record —Stanley's Journey Across the Continent to the Congo —
Expedition Planned by tlie Daily Telegraph of London and the New York
//<?rfl/rf— Englishmen in the Party— The Barge Named the "Lady Alice"- An,
Army of Followers to Carry the Outfit— Journey to the Victoria Nyanza — Specu
lation as to the Sources of the Nile — Dangers of Travelling in the Dark Conti-
nent—Crawling Through Jungles — A Famine-stricken District— Two Young Lions
for Food — Stanley's Pity for His Famishing Men — Death of a Young English-
man—Burial Under a Tree— Discovery of the Extreme Southern Sources of the
Nile— Arrival at Vinyata— Strange Old Magic Doctor— Breaking Out of Hostifi-

X CONTENTS.

ties — Severe Loss of Men— Treachery of Natives— Arrival of Six Beautiful
Canoes — Stanley Receives a Royal Invitation — The Great King Mtesa Welcomes
the Traveller — Prodigal Display of Hospitality— Great Naval Parade in Honor of
the Visitor — Uganda, the Country of King Mtesa — Startling Horrors of African
Life — Severe Punishments Inflicted by the King— Errand Boys in Picturesque
Dress — The King's Power of Life or Death— A Queen's Narrow Escape — Instru-
ments of Torture— A Powerful Despot— Review of the Warriors — History of the
Old King— Strange Tales of the Ancient Times— Marvellous Military Drill —
Singular Funeral Customs — Description of King Mtesa in Early Life — How the
King Receives Visitors — Royal Ceremonies — Superstitious Dread of a Water
Spirit — Decorations and Mystic Symbols — Worshipping with Fife and Drum —
The African's Indolent Character— Stanley's Estimate of King Mtesa -A Doubtful
Eulogy 371

CHAPTER XVIII.
STANLEYS PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

Stanley Off for Victoria Nyanz? — A Redoubtable General Who Had to be Put in Irons —
Stanley Received With August Ceremonies by a King— The Great Mtesa Agrees
to Join the Expedition — The King's Wonderful Army— Splendid Battalions of
Warriors — Native Hostilities on Foot — Repulse of Mtesa's Proud Army — Stan-
ley's Cunning Device to Defeat the Enemy — Construction of a Terrible War-
boat — Proclamation of Amnesty to Those Who Will Surrender — The Stratagem
Successful — A Renowned Arab— Stanley Obtains the Aid of Tipo-tipo— Dreadful
Accounts of Ferocious Cannibals and Dwarfs With Poisoned Arrows — Tales
Rivalling the Stories of the "Arabian Nights "—Dwarfs That Scream Like De-
mons—Clouds of Arrows Filling the Air — Terrible Tales of Huge Pythons-
Numerous Leopards and Other Wild Beasts— Stories of Gorillas — Stanley's Con-
tract With Tipo-tipo— Arrival at Nyangwe — Livingstone's Description of Nyang-
we's Renowned Market — Savage "Dudes" and Hard-working Women — An
Amusing Scene — New Journeys and Discoveries — Fierce Attack From Hostile
Natives— Engagement With Fifty-four Gun-boats~War Vessels Repulsed by
Stanley's Men — Fifty-seven Cataracts in a Distance of Eighteen Hundred Miles —
Five Months Covering One Hundred and Eighty Miles — Death in the Boiling
Rapids — Men Hurried to a Yawning Abyss— Miraculous Escape of One of Stan-
ley's Men— Thrilling Adventure of Zaida— Rescued in the Nick of Time— Brave
Frank Pocock Drowned— Stanley's Incontrollable Grief— Nearing the Mouth of
the Congo and the Atlantic Coast— Stanley's Letter Appealing for Help— Quick
Response of White Men— Stanley's Letter of Grateful Thanks— Final Arrival at
the Long-sought Coast — Stanley's Fame Fills the World 397

CHAPTER XIX.
TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.

Stanley and Emin Pasha— Other Famous African Travellers— Achievements Almost
Superhuman — Fascination of Tropical Explorations — Sir Samuel and Lady
Baker— Lady P?.!:cr Determined to Ace mpany Her Husband — Discomforts of
Travelling in Africa— Intense Heat in the Nile Region— Barren Rocks and Sandy
Wastes— Blue Sky Over a Blighted Land— The Wretched Town of Korosko—

CONTENTS.

Searching for One of the Sources of the Nile— Arrival at Berber— Courtesies of
an Ex Governor— The Travellers Pitch Their Tents in a Garden — A Charming
Oasis— Fine Looking Slaves From the White Nile — Slaves Well Cared for by
Their Master— Description of a BeautifulSlaveGirl— Guard of Turkish Soldiers-
Fine River and Forest Game— Sudden Rise of the Nile— A Clew to One Part of
the Nile Mystery — The Rainy Season Arrives— Interview With a Great Sheik —
Venerable Arab on a Beautiful Snow-white Dromedary — Perfect Picture of a
Desert Patriarch— Cordial Welcome to Baker and His Party— A Performance to
, Show the Sheik's Hospitality— Arrival at the Village of Sofi— On the Banks of
the Atbara— The Travellers Living in Huts— A German in the Wilds of Africa-
Man Killed by a Lion— Baker's Adventure With a River-horse— Savage Old
Hippopotamus — Famous Arab Hunters — Wonderful Weapons — Story of the Old
Arab and His Trap for the Hippopotamus— Capture of an Enormous Beast —
Aggageers Hunting the Elephant — Thrilling Adventure of a Renowned Arab
Hunter— An Elephant Dashing Upon His Foes Like an Avalanche — Fatal Blow
of the Sharp Sword— Baker's Heroic Wife— Reason Why the Nile Overflows— An
Ivory Trader — Baker Arrives at Khartoum — Romatic Beauty Destroyed by the
Filth of a Miserable Town 42a

CHAPTER XX.
THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

The Immense Region of the Soudan — Remarkable Character of "Chinese" Gor-
don — A Man Made of Damascus "" eel— A Warrior and Not an Explorer — Mr.
and Mrs. Baker Crossing the Nubiai. Desert— Hardships of a Long Camel Jour-
ney — The Romance of a Desert Journey Destroyed — ^Travelling Through a
Furnace — A Nubian Thunder Storm— Bakers Description of a Camel Ride — A
Humorous Experience— "Warranted to Ride Easy" — Extraordinary Freak of
Nature— Thorns Like Fish-hooks — Camel Plunging Into the Thorn Bushes — An
African Scorpion — Water Six Inches Deep in the Tents — The Explorers Pressing
Forward — The Party That Left Khartoum — The Carpenter Johann — Sickness
and Death of Poor Johann — Celebrated Tribe of Blacks — Very Cheap Style of
Dress — Traits of the Neuhr Tribe — Ludicrous Attempt to Get Into Shoes — Mode
of Salutation— Mosquitoes in Africa — Visit from a Chief and His Daughter —
Leopard Skin and Skull Cap of White Beads— Men Tall and Slender — Puny
Children— An Indolent and Starving People — Herds of Cattle — Sacred Bull
With Ornamented Horns — How a Prussian Baron Lost His Life — Termination
of the Voyage— Appearance of the Country— The Explorers Looked Upon
With Suspicion— Native Dwellings — The Perfection of Cleanliness— Huts With
Projecting Roofs and Low Entrances— The Famous Bari Tribe — Warlike and
Dangerous Savages— Story of an Umbrella— Systematic Extortion— Stories of
Two Brave Boys 439

CHAPTER XXL
IN A WILD COUNTRY.

Attempts to Shoot Baker— Desperate Mutiny in Camp— Notable Arrival— Meeting
Grant and Speke— The Little Black Boy from Khartoum— Fresh Plot Among
Baker's Men— Disarming the Conspirators— Heroism in the Face of Danger—

JIti

CONTENTS.

Mutinous Turks Driven Over a Precipice— Horrible Fate ol Deserters— Exciting
Elepiiant Hunt— March Througli Beautiful Hunting Grounds — Thrilling Encoun-
ter — The Huge Beast Turning on His Foes — Cowardly Followers— Elephant
Nearly Caught— Wild Beasts Screaming Like a Steam Whistle — Tales of Narrow
Escapes — African vand Indian Elephants— Elephants in War— The Explorers af
Obbo— Crafty Old Chief— Trouble to Get Rain— Spirited Dance of Obbos -
Trying to Trade Wives— Satanic Escort— Grotesque Parade — Serious Illness of
Mrs. Baker— Beautiful Landscape — Travelling in Canoes— Storm on the Lake-
Tropical Hurricane — Dangers of the Lake Tour — The Explorers Advancing
Under Difficulties — Continued Attacks of Fever — Life Endangered by Travelling
in the Tropics 456

CHAPTER XXII. *

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

A Wilderness of Vegetation— Hearty Welcome From a Chief and Natives— " Blind
Leading the Blind "—Voyage Up the Victoria Nile— Severe Attack of Fever —
Sufferings of Lady Baker— A Remarkable River— End of Canoe Voyage - Begin-
ning of a Toilsome March— Rumors Concerning a Great Waterfall — Thunder of
the Cataract— Rocky Cliffs and Precipitous Banks— Magnificent View— Splendid
Fall of Snow white Water— Murchison Falls— The Niagara of the Tropics— Hip-
popotamus Charges the Canoe— Startling Shock — Scrawny Travelling Beasts —
Curious Refreshments— Arrival at a Chief's Island — Crossing Ravines and Tor-
rents—Sickness on the March — Taking Shelter in a Wretched Hut — On the Verge
of Starvation— Baker Arrayed in Highland Costume— Stirring Events— Meeting
Between a Slave and Her Former Mistress — Adventurous Journey — Pushing on
for Shooa— Hunting Game for Dinner— Travellers Hungry as Wolves— Frolic-
some Reception of the Explorers— March Through the Bari Country— Arrows
Whizzing Overhead— Savage Fatally Wounded— Night in a Hostile Country —
Lively Skirmish with the Natives— Arrival at Gondokoro— Excitement and
Hurrahs— Terrible Ravages of the Plague— An Arab Gets His Deserts— Sir
Samuel and Lady Baker Arrive at Cairo— Baker Receives the Award of the
Victoria Gold Medal— The Hero Again in Africa 481

CHAPTER XXIII.
A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

CONTENTS.

XIU

—Exciting
ig Encoun-
— Elephant
, of Narrow
;xplorers at
)f Obbos -
IS Illness of
the Lake-
Advancing
f Travelling
456

ives— "Blind
c of Fever—
yage - Begin-
— Thunder of
!W— Splendid
topics— Hip-
ling Beasts —
nes and Tor-
On the Verge
ints— Meeting
—Pushing on
)lves— Frolic-
ntry— Arrows
le Country—
itement and
Deserts— Sir
ward of the
481

Ixowards the
Imers for the
lanterns— The
lancEUvres—
iming up tht
Id River— Im-
png Islands —
-A Beautiful
-Crafty Tres-
alesale Matri-
in Arms— A

Dangerous Encounter — Attack From the Baris— Dastardly Traitor — The House-
hold—Black Boys Who Would Not Steal Sugar— Little "Cuckoo"— A Remarka-
ble Rock — An Old Superstition— On the March — Adventure with a Rhi-
, noceros— Horse Attacked— Timely Shot— The Wild Beast Laid Low— Arrival at
Unyoro — Sanguinary Battle — "Chinese" Gordon at Khartoum— Gordon's Un-
timely Death. 50»

CHAPTER XXIV.
TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

Speke and Grant on the March— Soldiers and Hottentots— Red Flannel and Wooly
Heads — Dividing the Duties 0/ the Expedition— Strike for Higher Wages-
Rogues and Robbers— Excessive Politeness to Women— Polishing the African
Skin— Natives Who Run and Hide— Black Boys Badly Scared— Speke on a
Rhinoceros Hunt— Desperate Struggle to Obtain a Prize — Hunter Tossed Sky-
ward—An Extraordinary Animal— Use of the Rhinoceros Horn — Peculiar Eyes —
Habits of the Great Bsast— A Match for the Swiftest Horse— A Hot Pursuit-
Singular and Fatal Wound— A Rhinoceros in London — The Wild Beast Tamed—
Fire-eating Monster — The Explorers Meet a Rogue — Kind Attentions of an Old
Friend — Singular African Etiquette— How a Wife Welcomes Her Husband Back
From a Journey — Murder and Plunder — Speke Obtains Freedom for a Slave —
Horrid Cannibals— A Popular African Drink — How " Pomba " is Made — Arrival
at Mininga — A Leader Who Wis Named "Pig" — Obstinacy and Stupidity —
Chief Who Wanted to See a White Man— Sly Tricks of the " Pig"— A Steady
Old Traveller — Illness of the Explorer— Reception by a Friendly Chief— Alarm-
ing News — Persistent Demands for Tribute — Necklaces of Coral Beads — The
Explorer's Guides Forsake Him — Hurried Tramp of Men — Ai rival of Grant's
Porters ..530

CHAPTER XXV.

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

An African Village — Shelling Corn— Furniture in a Native's Hut— Peculiar Social
Customs — Evening Dance — A Favorite Game — Weezee Boys and Their Bows and
Arrows — Singular Mode of Shooting— Affectionate Greetings— Fine Models of the
Human Form— Treatment of Slaves — A Happy Release — Avaricious Arabs-
Horrible Punishments Inflicted Upon Offenders— Attacked by Black Robbers —
Little Rohan, the Sailor— Boy's Bravery — Shooting Thieves— Speke and Grant at
Karague -Combats with Wild Animals— Beautiful Scenery— Interesting Family
of a King— Royal Fit of Merriment — Famous Fat Wives — Mode of Fattening
Women — Models of Beauty— Amusement in the Palace — A King's Levee— Meas-
uring a very Fat Lady — Desperate Battle with a Hippopotamus — Mountain Ga-
zelles — The Wonderful White Man — A King's Astonishment at Gunpowder-
Women Beating the War Drum— Mu-tical Instruments— Wild Musician — Gro-
tesque Band of Music -A Merry Christmas— Speke on His Way to Uganda —
Messengers from King Mtesa— A Remarkably Rich Country— Mountains of the
Moon — Droll Customs of Savages— Frightening Away the Devil— Interview with
King Mtesa— A Black Queen— The King Shoots an Adjutant bird— Wild and

Kiv CONTENTS.

Fantastic Scene— A Famous Colonel— Arrival of Grant— The Explorers Pushing
Forward— Speke Loses One of His Men— Arrival at the Banks of the Nile-
Singular Conveyances— Brutal Attack of Natives— Speke and Grant at the End
of Their Journey— The Explorers Arrive in England— Important Discoveries of
Speke and Grant 552

CHAPTER XXVI.
STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

Remarkable Scenery in Central Africa— Masses of Rocky Mountains —Foliage Bright
with all the Colors of the Rainbow— Rank Growths of Rushes and Grass— Varieties
of Animal Life— The Guinea fowl —The Sacred Uiis— The Long-legged Stork
and Heron— The Wonderful Shoebill— Primeval Forests and Runnmg Streams-
Fine Specimens of Flowers — Perpetual Moisture— The Negro's Taste for
Honey— The Fish-eagle— Majestic Flight— An Old Bird— The Eagle Contending
for its Mate— Remarkable Claws— Turtle Doves and Golden Pheasants— Crows
and Hawks — Fairy Antelopes — Grave-looking Monkeys— Beautiful Valleys and
Hillsides— The Beautiful In Nature Marred by Human Cruelty— Cities Built by
Insects— Waves of Rolling Land — Villages of African Tribes— Stanley's Descrip-
on of Tanganyika— Remarkable Lake — Lovely Landscape — A Native Bird-
Famous Ibis— A Feathered Idol— Stanley's Glowing Description of Tropical
Scenery — Desert of Sahara— Terrific Sand Storms— Whirlwinds of Dust— Fire
in the Air— Extraordinary Storm Pillars — Remarkable Reptile Tribes— The
Curious Gekko — Brilliant Insects— The Traveller's Pests — Remarkable Trees
and Plants— The Wild Ox -The Wild Pig— Ten Kinds of Antelopes— Elegant
Animals— Swift Punishment — Famous Gorilla— Inveterate Thie»cs — Quick Re-
treat — The Orang-outang — Arms Lonj^er Than Legs — Formidable Foe — Pursuit
of the Orang-outang — Swinging Easily from Tree to Tree— Expert Climber-
Hiding Among the Leaves — The Young Orang — A Motherly Goat — Clever
Monkey — Saucy Pet— A Little Thief— An Animal Very Human 581

li;i!

CHAPTER XXVII.
A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

Thrilling Incidents in the Life of B.ildwin— A Man of Rare Attainments — Bold
Hunter — Kaffirs and Hottentots— Terrible Drought — Two Stately Giraffes — A
Rickety Old Wagon — Trouble With an Ancient Musket — Greedy Kaffir — Hostile
Natives — Loud Talk and Bluster — The Land for Brilliant Sport— Troop of
Elephants — Thfj Buffalo and Rhinoceros— Bright and Burning Sun— Story of a
Little African — Swimming a Turbid River — In Pursuit of a Huge Elephant-
Crashing Through the Thicket— Hunter Charged by an Elephant — Fat Meat and
Half-starved Natives — Immense Beasts Disappear Like Magic — Canoes Upset
and their Crews Drowned— Race of S.ivages Always at War — Covetous Chief-
An Open Air Dinner — Kaffir Girls for Waiters — Description of Kaffir Beauties —
Roasted Giraffe for Dinner-- An Unscrupulous Rascal — Trying to Get the Best of
the Bargain — In Pursuit of Eiiti.ds— Riding at a Slashing Pace— Floundering
Among Pit-falls — Another Encounter With Elephants — Perilous Situation— In
Close Contact With an Immense Beast— Shots That Went Home— A Famous

CONTENTS.

ers Pushing
the Nile—
at the End
scoveries ol
552

Bird— Pathetic Death of a Dog— Combats With Tigers— Exciting Events in the
Jungle — Indiscriminate Combat — Savage Charge by a Buffalo — Caught Among
Prickly Thorns— Beast that Cannot Be Driven— Chase of the Giraffe— Unique
Animal— Eyes of Wonderful Beauty— Elegant Roan Antelope— Crisis of Fate— A
Herd of Harrisbucks— The Plumed Ostrich— Ingenious Method of Getting
Water— Ostrich Chicks— Not Particular as to Food 617

ICA.

)liage Bright
5s— Varieties
egged Stork
ig Streams—
s Taste for
B Contending
iants— Crows
I Valleys and
ities Built by
ley's Descrip-
Native Bird—
I of Tropical
of Dust-Fire
Tribes— The
rkable Trees
)pes— Elegant
s— Quick Re-
Foe— Pursuit
rt Climber-
Goat— Clever
S8i

iments— Bold
Giraffes— A
affir— Hostile
Tt— Troop of
1— Story of a
Elephant—
Ipat Meat and
lanoes Upset
|etous Chief-
ir Beauties-
let the Best of
-Floundering
Isituation— In
\— A Famous

CHAPTER XXVIII.
GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLORERS.

Great Gorilla Hunter— Du Chaillu in the Jungles— First Gorilla Captured by a
White Man— Formidable Monster— Ghastly Charms— Battle with a Bull— Hunter
Tossed on Sharp Horns — The Camma Tribe— A very Sick Man— Infernal-looking
Doctor— Snake Bones and Little Bells— Extraordinary Performance to Find the
Sorcerer— Huge Fraud — Andersson in Africa— Guides Lose Their Way — Lives of
the Whole Paity at Stake— A Search for Water in All Directions— Necessity of
Returning Without Delay— Two Men Exploring the Country for Water Left Be
hind— Suffering of Men and Animals from Thirst— Grand and Appalling Confla
gration— Magnificent Spectacle— Cattle One Hundred and Fifty Hours Without a
Single Drop of Water— Troop of Elephants— A Watch by Night— Wild Animals at
a Water Course— Battle Between a Lion and Lion Hunter — Dogs and Natives —
Exciting Hunting Scene — One Hundred Natives in the Field— Cameron in the
Dark Continent — Illustrious Explorer — Expedition from Sea to Sea— Impor-
tant Discoveries — Agreement Between African Explorers— Stanley's Fame As-
sured ^ 651

CHAPTER XXIX.
THE CELEBRATED EMIN PASHA.

A Remarkable Man— Last of the Heroes of the Soudan— Birth of Emin Pasha— Early
Education— Charmed with the Life of an Explorer— Determined to Visit Africa-
Acquaintance with "Chinese" Gordon— Gordon's High Estimate of Emin— Emin
Appointed to an Important Position— Governor of the Equatorial Province— Diffi-
culties of the Situation -Strong Hand and Iron Will Required for the Natives—
Emin's Very Irregular Troops— Marvellous Success of Emin's Government— A
Large Deficit Changed to an Immense Profit— Construction of New Roads— Vil-
lages Rebuilt— Immense Improvements Everywhere— Emin's Devotedness to his
GreatUndertaking— Wonderful Tact and Perseverance— Great Anxiety for Emin—
Speculations Concerning His Situatiou— Resolve to Send an Expedition— StanUy
Called upon for a Great Achievement ..., 676

CHAPTER XXX.
EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

Emin's Graphic Story— Sent to Unyoro by " Chinese " Gordon— Emin's Company on
the March— Drenched with Rnin- Ox-hide Clothing— Fine Present-Very Diffi-

XVI CONTENTS.

cult Marching— Handsome Young Chief— A Manlike Animal— Ape Nests Among
the Tret'S — The African Parrot— Several Species of Baboons — The King Sends
nn Escort — Tooting Horns and Rattling Drums -Arrival at Kabrega's— Cows
With Neither Horns nor Humps— Country Well Peopled— Tall Grasses and
Gigantic Reids— The Kmg's Greetings— Kabrega on a Stool— How the King
Was Dressed— Kabrega's Fair Complexion— Amused with a Revolver — A Merry
Monarch— A Savage Who Could Forgive— Funny Little Hump-backs— Numer-
ous Albinos— Interesting Custom— Embassy to Gen. Gordon— A Worthless
Governor— Exciting Melee Gft;

CHAPTER XXXI.
EMIN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

Emin's Scholarly Attainments— A Shrewd Observer— The Wanyoro— Cleanly Hab>
its — Sweet Perfumes — Triangular Finger-Nails — Wanyoro Cookery — Eating
Earth— How Great Cliiefs Eat— How Women Eat— What Africans Drink— Proud
Wives of Chiefs- Use of Tobacco— Treating Friends With Coffee-berries— Wild
Sports in Unyoro — A Famous Witch — Scene at a Fire — How Love Matches Are
Made— Paying for a Wife by Installments— How Crime is Punished — The Coun-
try's Government— The King's Cattle — King Kabrega Claims All the Young
Ladies— Legend of the Creation— Belief in Cliarms— Curious Superstitions— Le-
gend of the Elephant— Legend of the Chimpanzee 704

CHAPTER XXXII.
EMIN PASHA'S PERILOUS SITUATION.

The War of the False Prophet Goes on— Emin's Concern for Amadi— Sends Mes-
sengers to Obtain News— Stirring Reports From the Scene of Conflict — Heroic
Spirit of Some of Emin's Soldiers— Contemptible Treachery of a Part of Emin's
Forces — Presumptuous Letter From the Commander-in Chief of the Mahdist's
Army— Intelligence of Gordon's Death — Exultation Among Moslem Arabs Over
the Death of Gordon — Emin Summons His Officers to a Council of War — Reso-
lution Passed by the Council— General Recommendation of a Retreat South-
ward -Emin's Personal Supervision of the Southward March — Manner in Which
Emin Received the Summons to Surrender— The Equatorial Provinces in a
Perilous Situation - Emin's Letter to Dr. Felkin— -News From England of a Pro-
posed Expedition for Emin's Relief— Thanks for Heartfelt Sympathy— Emin's
Expressed Resolve to Remain With His People— Gordon's Self-sacrificing Work
Must be Carried on— Emin's Statement of What He Wants From England-
Disreputable Arabs—Emin Anxiously Awaiting the Outcome of Present
Troubles— Destructive Fire rmd the Loss of the Station at Wadelai— The Station
Re-built— Emin's Estimate of His Own Supporten— Emphatic Determination
Not to Evacuate the Territory 715

CONTENTS.

xvii

CHAPTER XXXIII.
STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION.

•o— Cleanly Hab>
Cookery — Eating
ins Drink— Proud
Tee-berries— Wild
,ove Matches Are
shed— The Coun-
is All the Young
superstitions— Le-
704

Stanley Again in Africa— Fears for the Safety of Emin Pasha— King of the Belgians
Resolves to Send an Expedition— Deciding upon a Route- Stanley States the
Character of the Expedition— A Country That Does Not Pay— Bees' Wax and
India Rubber— Cutting off the Nile— A Country That Might Be Starved— Stanley
States That His Mission is Pacific— Stanley's Old Friend Tipo-tipo— Six Hundred
Men Enlisted— Meeting the Expenses of the Journey— The Expediton Leaves
Zanzibar for the Mouth of the Congo — Overland Journey of Nearly Seventeen
Hundred Miles— Appalling Difficulties— Transporting Munitions and Stores —
DiiTiculty to Obtain Porters— Mysteries of the 'White Pasha"— Gigantic False-
hood Told Concerning Emin— Gloomy Predictions— Fears for the Safety ol
Stanley— The Whole Expedition Thought to Have Been Massacred— Blunders
Committed in the Soudan and East Africa — Hostile Relations Between the Na-
tive Tribes— Dangers Always Threatening a Passing Caravan — Marauders Eager
for Plunder— Stanley's Selection of the Congo Rout Criticized 723

CHAPTER XXXIV.
STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY.

The Great Explorer Heard From— News of Having Reached Emin Pasha — Interest-
ing Letter from Mr, Stanley— Story of the Expedition's Movements— Awaiting
the Arrival of a Steamer— Tipo tipo Again on the Scene —Lively Skirmish with
the Nal'ves— Setting Fire to Villages— Making an Attack Under Cover of Smoke —
Proceeding Along the Left Bank of the Aruwimi— Again in the Wilderness— Death
from Poisoned Arrows— Making Steady Progress— Arrival at the Camp— Attempt
to Ruin the Expedition— What Stanley Calls an "Awful Month "—Brighter Pros-
pects Ahead— Extreme Suffering from Hunger— Great Loss in Men— A Halt of
Thirteen Days— View of the Land of Promise— Light After Continuous Gloom of
One Hundred and Sixty Days— A Battle Imminent— Natives Prepare for War-
fare— Terrible War-cries Ring from Hill to Hill— Treating with the Natives -
Attempt to Drive Back the Expedition— Sharp-shooters Rout the Natives— The
March Resumed— Perilous Descent— Stanley Builds a Fort-Laying Up Stores-
Illness of Stanley— Deaths and Desertions— Stanley Starts Again - Obtaining Sup-
plies—News Again of the "White Man." „ 73a

CHAPTER XXXV.

STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASHA.

Wonderful Tales by Natives—" Ships as Large as Islands, Filled with M«n "—Note
from Emin Pasha— Strip of American Oil-cloth— Boat Dispatched to Nyanza—
Hospitable Reception by the Egyptian Garrison- Joyful Meeting— Emin and

XVIU

Contents.

Stanley Together— Only Sixteen Men Left Out of Fifty six— Favorable Accounts
of the Fort— Getting Rid of Encumbrances— Moving Foward— Securing Am-
ple Supplies— Immense Flotilla ol Canoes— Hair-breadth Escapes and Tragic
Scenes— Reorganizing the Expedition— St inley Reported Dead— Immense Loss
of Men— Good Accounts of the Survivors— Vast Forests— Sublime Scenery-
High Table-lands— Lake Nyanza— Conversation with Emin Pasha— What Shall
be Done ?— Planning to Remove — Disposing of Women and Children— Last
Words— Stanley Sends a Message to the Troops— Emin Pasha to Visit the Fort-
Stanley Makes a Short Cut— Success Thus Far of the Expedition 74a

CHAPTER XXXVI.
STANLEY IN THE BOUNDLESS FOREST.

The Route Taken by Stanley— A March Beset by Fatal Perils— Death Thins the
Ranks— Bushes and Creepers— Most Extensive Forest Region in Africa — One
Hundred and Sixty Days in the Dense Woods — Loyal Blacks — Insects and
Monkeys— Dwarfs and Poisoned Arrows — Gloom by Day and Frightful Darkness
by Night— Sources of Moisture— Wild and Savage Aborigines — Short-lived
Vision of Beauty— Light at Last— The Expedition in Raptures at the Sight of
Green Fields— Scene on a Derby Day— Wild With Delight — A Leprous Out-
cast — " Beauty and the Beast " — News of a Powerful Tribe — Frantic Multitude —
Fowls Plucked and Roasted— Skeletons Getting Fat — Back and Forth on the
Banks of the Aruwimi— Emin Pasha — "See, Sir, What a Big Mountain" — Lake
Albert Nyanza — Important Discoveries 752

CHAPTER XXXVII.
HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

The Explorer Again Lost— Long and Painful Suspense — Welcome Despatch from
Zanzibar— Wonderful March— Conspicuous Bravery — Stanley's Thrillmg Story-
Murder of Major Barttelott — Mission Church — "Outskirts of Blessed Civiliza-
tion "—Vivid Word Painting —Stanley's Letter to a Friend— Movements of Jeph-
son— Stanley's History of His Journey — Letter to the Chairman of the Emin Re-
lief Fund — Rear Column in a Deplorable State--Land March Begun — Gathering
Stores for the March — Small-pox— Terrible Mortality — Bridging a River — Crafty
and Hostile Dwarfs — Tracks of Elephants — Fighting Starvation — Stanley Returns
to Find the Missing Men— Making Friends with the Natives — Startling Letter
from Jephson— Emin a Prisoner— The Insurgents Reach Lado— Emin's Followers
Like Rats in a Trap — Stanley's Arrival Anxiously Awaited — Emin Chngs to His
Province — Stanley's Letter to Jephson — Absurd Indecision— Letter from Emin—
Desperate Situation — Emin's Noble Traits— Stanley's Letter to Marston— Recital
of Thrilling Events 761

CHAPTER XXXVIII.
STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

Stanley's Continued History of His March— Emin's Arrival at Stanley's Camp-
Arranging for the Journey — Arabs who Always Agree with You— That Stolen

CONTENTS.

XIX

vorable Accounts
i— Securing Am-
apes and Tragic
1 — Immense Loss
iblime Scenery—
isha— What Shall
1 Children— Last
o Visit the Fort-
»n 742

:sT.

-Death Thins the
•n in Africa— One
icks— Insects and
^'rightful Darkness
gines— Short-lived
;s at the Sight of
-A Leprous Out-
rantic Multitude—
and Forth on the
Mountain "—Lake
752

le Despatch from
Thrilling Story-
Blessed Civiliza-
ovements of Jeph-
n of the Emin Re-
Begun— Gathering
g a River— Crafty
—Stanley Returns
i— Startling Letter
Emin's Followers
min Chngs to His
;tter from Emin—
Marston— Recital
761

Stanleys Camp—
You— That Stolen

Rifle— Selim Bey Deposed— The Refugees and their Luggage— Falstaffs
Buck Basket— Emin's Inquiry— Stanley's Reply to Emin— Hankering for
Egypt— Stanley Reviews the Situation— The Pasha's Danger— Rebels
Threaten to Rob Stanley— Rebels Possessed of Ammunition— When Shall
the Marcli. Commence ?— Reply of the Officer^- Emin Acquitted of All
Dishonor — Emin's Unwavering Faith— Few Willing to Follow Emin to
Egypt— Expedition Starts for Home— The Perilous March 781

CHAPTER XXXIX.

BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY.

The World Hears the News— Stanley and Emin Pasha Arrive at Mpwapwa-
Newspapers Aglow with the Intelligence— Intense Interest of All Civilized
People— Unfortunate Report of Emin's Death— General Rejoicings on Ac-
count of Emin's Safety— Stanley's Thrilling Narrative— Incidents of the
Homeward March — The Explorer in Perfect Health — Stanley's Summons
to Conduct the Expedition — The Aruwimi Explored from itis Source to Its
Bourne— The Immense Congo Forest—** Cloud King " Wrapped in Eternal
Snow— Fed on Blackberries — Six Thousand Square Miles of Water Added
to Victoria Nyanza— Animals, Birds, and Plants— New Stores of Knowledge
— The Hand of a Divinity— Emin Pasha and Jephson Threatened with In-
stant Death — Prisoners in the Hands of the Mahdists— Jephson's Letters-
Stanley's Faith in the Purity of His Own Motives — "Agonies of Fierce Fe-
vers" — What Vulgar People Call Luck — Strange Things in Heaven and
Earth — Uncomplaining Heroism of Dark Explorers — Stanley's Letter to
the British Consul at Zanzibar — Number of Persons Brought Out of Central
Africa — Fifty-nine Infant Travellers — Eighteen of Emin's People Lost —
Completeness of Stanley's Story 797

CHAPTER XL.

WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA.

Stanley's Arrival at Cairo — Warm Greetings — A Talk with the Explorer — A
Fortune Left Behind — Great Preparations to Welcome Stanley — Banquet
Attended by Distinguished Persons — Stanley's Letter to Mr. Bruce — A
Story that Would Have Thrilled Livingstone — Two Hundred Thousand
Spears — White Cotton Dresses — An Unexpected Meeting — The King
Finds a Refuge — Mohammedan Intrigues — Terrible Slaughter — Christians
in Africa — Stanley has an Opportunity for Adventure — An Imposing Dep-
utation — Christian Converts Mightier than Kings — Students of the Bible
and Prayer Book — A Tough Scotchman — •' Peace and Good Will to Men "
— Stanley Sends Greetings and Best Wishes — Stanley's Return Anticipated
in London — Offers for a Prize Poem — An American Girl Wins the Prize —
The Poem Celebrating Stanley's Return — *' Back from the Dead " 809

^^*

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Frontispiece.

Henry M. Stanley ....

The Celebrated Explorers of the World

Expedition Starting for the Interior of Africa

David Livingstone ....

Wounded Lion Turning on Livingstone

Lions Capturing a Buffalo

Deadly Attack of a Lion on a Native

Peculiar Head-dress

Successful Warriors Celebrating Their Victory

Warrior with Spears and Shield

Fetish Men Selling Charms and Images

Training Boys for Hardships .

Curious Houses Built by White Ants

The Latooka Funeral Dance .

Commoro Running to the Fight .

Wild Charge of a Buffalo upon Hunters

Exciting Battle with Hippopotami

Driving Crocodiles into the Water

House-Building in Africa

Livingstone Hunting the Elephant

A Dead Crocodile

The Famous Antediluvian Crocodile

The Final Attack on a Savage Hippopotamus

Great Baobab Tree of Africa

Curious Mounds Built by Warrior-Ants

Immense African Lion Seizing His Prey

Grand Dance in Honor of a King

The Exploring Party on the March

The Marimba or African Piano

Stampede of South African Gnus .

Scene in a South African Village .

Charming Away Evil Spirits ,

Singular Mode of Dressing the Hair

Beautiful Zebras of Africa

Bringing a Huge Snake into Camp

(XX)

PAOS

. 19

• 23

• 27

• 34

• 39
. 41

• 49
. 48

■ S3

• 57

• 59

■ 63
. 69

73
75
80

84
86

89
95

lOI

103

107

109
III

"5
119

121

123

"5
127

129

131
«33

UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

XXI

Elephant Protecting Her Young from Hunters' Spears
Gigantic Baobab Tree at Victoria Falls
Curious Mode of Saluting a Stranger
Hippopotami and Young .
Elephants Speared to Death by Natives
Elephants Laying Timbers .
Death-Grapple with a Ferocious Lion
Despeiate Battle at Mazaro .
«<Igubo Plunged His Knife into the Monster's Side
African Chief with Shield and War-club
Sudden Destruction of a Boat by a Hippopotamus
Long-tongued African Chameleon
'*' Instantly He Was Dragged from the Saddle
Specimen of Elegant Tattooing
Destruction of a Village by Fire
Carrying Boats through a Tropical Forest
Gigantic Heron of Africa
The Pelican ....
Group of Flamingoes .
Curious Nest of the Flamingo
The Marvellous Spectral Lemur
Natives Carrying a Boat in Sections across the Country
Zanzibar ....
Lake Region of Central Africa
Dr. Livmgstone at Work on His Journal
Lrvingstone and His Men Crossing a "Sponge'
Grand Reception to Dr. Livingstone
A Chief's Most Dignified Conveyance .
Casembe Dressed to Receive Livingstone
Hunting African Buffaloes
King of the Forest ....
Hunter Attacked by a Bull Elephant
A Family of Lion-Monkeys
Ants on the March ....
Market in Manyuema . ' .

Cannibals Capturing Sokos .
Arabs Destroying Villages and Murdering Natives
Stanley on the March .
Porter Carrying a Cart on His Head
Exciting Chase of the Rhinoceros .
** The Rhinoceros Drove Its Horn into Its Body "
Stanley's Expedition Crossing a River .

PAGB

>35

»39
141

143

M5
149

153
i6(

165

171

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185

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"95
19^
201
203

207
209

211
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221
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227
229

235

239
241

249

253

257

259
261

264

26^

271

281

283

285

291

295

XXll

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Weapons Used in Warfare ....

Crocodiles in a Tropical Marsh

Natives Dragging an Immense Crocodile Ashore

White-faced Wild Boar of Central Africa

Map of the Great Lake District ,

Stanley Finds Livingstone ....

Stanley and Livingstone Escaping from Savages

African Houses with Thatched Roofs

Conveying Livingstone's Body to the Coast .

The Giraffe or Camelopard ....

Young "Fetish" Man of the Congo District

King William of the Gaboon and His Principal Wife

Guereza with Beautiful Flying Mantle .

Immense War-Boat of Cannibals Advancing to Battle

Monument and Skulls Erected to a Chief

African Warrior Rushing to Battle

King Mtesa and His Officers of State

Peculiar Mode of Execution

One of Mtesa's Wives Rescued from Death

Wild Freaks of a Female Sorcerer

Human Sacrifices in Honor of a Visit to King Mtesa

Wild War-Dance of Savage Braves

Beautiful African Leopard and Young .

Battle between Stanley's Expedition and Fifty-four

Heroic Rescue of Zaidi ....

A Berber Family Crossing a Ford

The Beautiful Slave Girl at Berber

Exciting Combat with a Hippopotamus in the Atbara

The Old Arab Attacking the Hippopotamus .

An Elephant's Furious Charge upon His Foes

Sir Samuel and Lady Baker Crossing the Desert

Wild Arab's Swift Ride

Venomous Scorpion ....

Natives of the Nile Region .

Natives of Africa Capturing an Elephant

Bull Elephant Shaking a Tree for Fruit .

Elephants in Military Service

Curious Obbo War-Dance

Kamrasi's People Welcoming Mr. and Mrs. Baker

The Start from M' rooli for the Lake with Kamrasi*

Herd of Hippopotami in the Albert Nyanza Lake

Murchison Falls — The Niagara of Africa

Canoes

Satanic Escort

PAGB

301

305
307
3"
3>9
323
335
342

345

355
361

363
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367
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389
394

399

407

412
416

425
427
431
434

437
442

445

447

451
461

464

467

472

474
476

479
483

i !

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

xxiu

Ferocious Attack of a Hippopotamus

Grand Dance of Welcome to Mr and Mrs. Baker

Lively Skirmish with the Natives .

Camels Transporting Steamers Across the Desert

Antelopes Guarded by a Sentry

Shillook Warriors with Dress and Weapons

" The Black Soldiers Immediately Attacked the Crocodile "

Curious Table-Rock in the Nile Valley .

*' Crack ! went a Bullet against His Hide " .

Wazaramo Village

Greedy Natives Figh<^ing over a Captured Hippopotamus

'- The Animal Sent Him into the Air " .

Desperate Race ....<,.

Put to Flight by a Suflden Charge .

Grand Torchlight Dance of the Weezee

Dancing Party to Welcome a Returning Husband

Peculiar African Bullock ....

Social Amusements among the Weezees

Young Weezee Shooting Pigeons

An Ivory Merchant's Camp ....

Combat with an Enraged Lioness .

A Happy Native

Landing an Enormous Hippopotamus .
Infuriated Rhinoceros Routing His Foes
Peculiar Musical Instruments.
Curious Adjutant-Bird . . . . •
Grant's Rapid Journey from Karagwe .
Elephants Escaping from Their Pursuers
Strange African Shoebill ....
Fish-Eagles Contending for a Prize . .
Life and Metamorphosis of the Dragon-fly
Desperate Battle with the King of the Forest .

Beautiful Pheasant

Columns of Desert Sand Formed by a Cyclone
African Gekko or Wall-lizard

Gigantic Beetle

Native Captured by a Ferocious Leopard

The World-renowned Gorilla

Orang-outang Captured ....

Apes among the Trees

Herd of African Elephants ....
Chased by an Enraged Elephant .

PACB
486
492

495
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510

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53a

534
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611

614

621

624

XXIV

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

, Twice, Thrice

Dining with a Kaffir Chief

Headlong Chase of Three Elands .

At Close Quarters ....

A Perilous Position

Terrible Combat with Tigers

Narrow Escape from a Wild Buffalo

A Race for Life ....

Giraffes Fleeing from a Hunter

Herd of Harrisbucks in Full Flight

Curious Mode of Capturing Ostriches

Exciting Chase of a Wild Ostrich

South American Ostrich and Young

Terrible Combat with a Gorrilla .

" It Tossed Him High into the Air Otice,

O'Jganga Doctor Discovering a Witch.

A Struggle for Life

Leopard and Ant-Bear in Mortal Combat

South African Kangaroos

Warrior with Battle-axe

Carved Ivory Trumpets

Chief with Remarkable Goatee

Camel of Arabia ....

Traveller and Camel Crossing^the Dessert

Hunting the Wild Boar in Africa .

Desperate Combat with a Lion

Kaffirs' Lively War-Dance

Emin Pasha (Dr Schnitzer) .

Some of Emin Pasha's Irregulars .

African King and His Great Chiefs Returning a Visit

In the Jaws of Death .

Chirping Cricket . ,

Arrival at Kabrega's

Map of Equatorial Africa

Expedition Crossing a Temporary Bridge

Henry M. Stanley and His Automatic Machine Gun

Abyssinian Foot Soldier ....

Stanley Threatens Death if the Box is Dropped

Animals of the Tropics ....

Skirmish Drill of Kaffir Warriors

Extraordinary Forest Growths in Africa

Monkey Town in Central Africa . . •

PAGB
626
628
630
663

639
641

645
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673
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679

681

683

691

694

726

728

730
734
739

745
747
749
755

' ' I WilWWiljBjjiBrwiij

# ^

PACB
626
628
630
663

639
641

643

645
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649
653

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663
664
665

666
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669
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673
676
679
681
683
691
694
726
728

730
734
739

745
747
749
755

. ^■•■■fr'

;^^

ANIMALS. KtPTlLES A-Mj FISW Ul- [HE 1 KOf ICS.

Wonders a^. Tropics

EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES

HENRY WL. STANLEY.

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:l|

CHAPTER I.
STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE.

i^ Remarkable Man— Solving the Mysteries of the Dark Continent— Stanley's Birth !n
Wales— Sent in Early Life to the Almshouse at St. Asaph— A Teacher in Flint-
» shire— Struggling to Obtain Means for an Education— The Restless Spirit Show-
4 ing itself— Seeking the New World— A Cabin Boy, Bound from Liverpool to New
Orleans— The Welsh Boy Adopted by Stanley of New Orleans— Honesty and
Capacity of the Boy— Death of Stanley's Benefactor— No Property Falls to the
Adopted Son— Stanley in California— A Free and Happy Life Among Bold Ad-
venturers—The School of Human Nature— Power of Endurance and Readiness
for Daring Enterprises— Carrying the Knapsack and Rifle — A Soldier in the
Confederate Army — Captured by Union Forces — Becomes Connected with the
New York Herald— Off for the Battle-field in Turkey— Robbed by Brigands-
Stanley Returns to England— The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse— Sent
by James Gordon Bennett with the British Abyssinian Expedition — Stanley's
Messages First to Reach London — Livingstone Lost in Africa — Remarkable
Midnight Interview with Mr. Bennett — "Find Livingstone at any Cost."

HE vvrorld is filled with the fame of Henry M. Stanley. What Cicero
was in eloquence, what Newton was in science, what Gladstone is
in statesmanship, this Stanley is in exploration and adventure.-
For bold enterprise, for daring achievement, for unconquerable
rseverance, for singular command of men, for intrepid bravery in the
,ce of danger, he stands unrivalled among the heroes of modem times ;
nd this is saying much considering that modem history boasts of such
ames as Livingstone, Baker, Emin Bey, Cameron and Speke in Tropical
scoveries, and Franklin, Kane and Greeley in Arctic voyages and perils.

'Hi!

Nii

)

|i^

'I I

-' I

^ ^'''.j

r ^* .;

\i\:.

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

To this man the eyes of the world are drawn ; the Dark Continent has
yielded to him its mysteries, and when it shall be changed by the on-
ward march of civilization, the eulogies pronounced upon him will be
even more eloquent, and a large share of the credit of redeeming the
uncivilized wastes of Africa will be freely accorded to him.

Like many men who have distinguished themselves in every field of
enterprise and discovery, Stanley came from very humble life, and by
force of native genius, resolute will and self-sacrificing devotion to h'ly
work, has gained the foremost rank among the noble band of explorers
whose thrilling achievements have an interest surpassing that of the most
marvelous tales of fiction.

Henry M. Stanley, although an American by residence and education,
was born at Denbigh, in Wales, in 1840, The names of his par^^nts were
Rowland. They belonged to the very poor, yet, like many of the peas-
antry in old countries, they possessed some sterling qualities of mind
and heart and character. These have been reproduced in their son. who
has risen far above the su»'roundings of his childhood, and has become
celebrated by achievements which never could have been predicted from
the circumstances of his early life. As it was not possible for him to be
cared for and supported at home, at the early age of three years he was
placed in the almshouse at St. Asaph. Here it was expected he would
receive the care and training, both meagre indeed, which such an institu-
tion was able to furnish.

Seeking the New World.

Stanley remained at the almshouse until he was thirteen years old. It
seems probable that there is just here a space of several years which is
not accounted for, since the next we hear of him he was a teacher at
Mold, in Flintshire, endeavoring by this occupation to provide himself
with the means of taking a thorough course of study and completing i
his education. It appears, however, that he remained at Mold only one
year. By this time the restless spirit of the youth had begun to show
itself and he gave signs that his life would be one of adventure.
Having shipped at Liverpool as a cabin-boy on a vessel that was bound
for New Orleans, he thought he would try the New World and leain
what fortune might await him there. His youthful mind had been awak-
ened by glowing accounts of the open fields on this side of the Atlantic,
and the larger opportunities which awaited industrious and enterprising
young men.

Having arrived a^ New Orleans, he soon obtained employment with a
merchant named Stanley. This man was attracted by the frank, open-

bTANLEY'S EARLY LIFE.

w Continent has
iged by the on-
ion him will be
f redeeming the
1.

n every field of
ble life, and by
devotion to hi>
id of explorers
:hat of the most

2 and education,
his parents were
my of the peas-
[ualities of mind
ti their son. who
and has become
1 predicted from
)le for him to be
ee years he was
jected he would
such an institu-

n years old. It
years which is
|ras a teacher at
provide himself
and completin<,r
Mold only one
begun to show
of adventure
that was bound
/orld and leain
had been awak-
of the Atlantic,
ind enterprising

ployment with a
the frank, open-

hearted manner of the boy, and not only received him into his family,
but soon atlopted him as his own. His friend and benefactor sodn learned
that his confidence had not been misplaced; that the impulsive Welsh

HENRY M. STANLEY, THE WORLD's GREATEST EXPLORER.

boy was capable of great things; that he was honest and competent; and
although at that time no prediction could have been made of the wonder-
ful career which lay before him. yet, even then, it could safely have been

I '!l!

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

said that in some capacity or other he was likely to become distinguished
above orc^nary men.

Stanley's benefactor died intestate, or at least none of his property fell
to his adopted son. By the sudden bereavement which had overtaken
him, he was left alone in the world and brouj^dit face to face with the
startling fact that he was to be the architect of his own fortune; that he
was to find his surest helper in himself; that he could accomplish in life
just what his own capacity and push and genius would enable him t(
bring to pass. In his case, as in that of others, it is interesting to trace
the chain of circumstances which led him on to the great undertakings,
which have since startled the world.

Stanley iu California.

He was seized with a strong desire to visit the Pacific coast. It is
not worth while here to recount the adventures and hardships which he
underwent in carrying out his cherished wish to acquaint himself with
the western part of our country ; the old saying that " where there is a
will there is a way," was fully illustrated in this instance. For a time he
roamed over different parts of California; gazed upon the romantic
scenes which that country affords ; made the acquaintance of miners as
they sat around their camp-fires ; listened to the tales of their exploits ;.
wondered at the magnificent products of nature, the lofty trees of the
Sierras and the sublime scenery of the Yc^scmite Valley, and became
familiar with the character of the bold men who were attracted to this
region by the fascinating tales which had been related of the discovery
of gold.

During this time he was not only familiarizing himsc. * with the natural
scenes which had for him a strong fascination, but he was studying
human nature, learning the ways of men, arfd, by his genial qualities and
ready adaptation to circumstances, making friends wherever he went.
Scarcely any school could have been better for him at this time. THb
hardy life that he led developed his physical strength and made him a
man of nerve and iron. His power of endurance already showed itself.
Few could travel farther or endure more fatigue than he. If any little
enterprise was planned which required a brave .spirit, Stanley was the
young man who was found equal to the occasion. He wa's a brave,
strong character ; just the one to cross seas, climb mountains, wade
rivers, endure hardships, explore continents.

Carrying^ the Knapsack and Rifle.

Returning from California, it was but natural that, as he had previously
resided in the South, he should identify himself with the Confederate

STANLEY'S EARLY LIKE.

: >; V .

Army. To one like him there was something captivating about the life
of a soldier ; be was not in the habit of turning back from the face of
■danger. His life hitherto had prepared him for just those exploits which
are connected with bold military achievements. And although his con-
nection with the Confederate Army was brief, it was evident that he had
the material in him for a good soldier ; in fact, it was while carrying out
one of his adventurous projects that he was captured by the Union
troops and was made prisoner of war.

He was confined on board the iron-clad Ticonderoga, and here again
his manly bearing and frank, genial manner won him friends. The com-
mander of the vessel was willing to release him on condition that he
shc)uld join the United States Navy. This he consented to do, although
there was not much about the life of a sailor that attracted him. By this
"voluntary act he separated himself from the Confederate Army, and be-
•came an ally of the Federal forces. He remained, doing such service as
was required of him, until the close of the war. Suddenly his occupa-
tion was gone, and again he seemed to be thrown upon the world. This
fact had no discouragements for him ; he took it as a matter of course.
It was not in the nature of things that so bright and spirited a young
man should long remain idle. Having had a taste of the excitement of
military campaigns, he conceived the bold project of crossing the Atlan-
tic, and, if opportunity offered, continuing his military career.

Off to the Battle-iield.

There was trouble in Turkey at this time on account of the uprising
of the Cretans, who, having borne their oppression until endurance
ceased to be a virtue, resolved to throw off the yoke under which they
had suffered. It was but natural that Stanley should feel sympathy for
any tribe or nation struggling for independence, and at once he resolved
to ally himself with the Cretans and take again the chances of war.

At this time he formed a connection which has influenced his career
ever since, and which was the most important that he ever entered into.
As he was going East, and would be an eye-witness of the stirring scenes
transpiring in the Orient, he secured the position of correspondent for
the New York Herald, and immediately, in company with two Ameri-
cans, set sail for the Island of Crete. The old saying that *' distance
lends enchantment to the view " was fully illustrated in his case, for after
he had arrived upon the ground and had become acquainted with the
movement that was in progress for securing the independence of Crete,
he became thoroughly disgusted with the leaders of the rebellion, and
-entirely changed his opinion as to the merits of the case. He recalled

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

« !

'\'

at once his resolve and determined that he would not identify himself with
the malcontents whose cause, after he had investigated it, did not appeal
to his sympathies.

Again he was a " free lance" and was at liberty to undertake any labor
or occupation that presented itself. Fortunately he had received from
New York full permission to go wherever he pleased. He could travel
in any direction, gain a knowledge of what was transpiring in other
countries, describe the active scenes that were taking place, and send
his letters to the journal which was now employing him, with the certainty
that they would be read with interest. Americans are quick in obtaining
information from other parts of the world, and their eagerness for it is
exhibited by the fact that so many of our enterprising journals have
their correspondents in other countries. The education of our people
peculiarly fits them for an active interest in whatever of importance is
going on throughout the world.

Robbed by BrigraudN.

Stanley and his friends soon met with an adventure which shows the
dangers through which they passed and the kind of people they encoun-
tered. A party of Turkish brigands made an attack upon them and robbed
them of all their money and extra clothing. This is not an unusual
occurrence in many parts of the East, where travellers run continuous
risks and are constantly exposed to the marauding disposition of reckless
robbers and brigands. At this time Mr. Morris was our United States
Minister at Constantinople, and the case was presented to him ; he im-
mediately interested himself in behalf of Stanley and his friends and
brought the matter to the attention of the Turkish officials. Mr. Morris
v/as extremely helpful to his fellow Americans, and having loaned them
whatever was needful, they continued their wanderings. It will be under-
stood that during this time letters were forwarded to the Nezu York
Herald, containing graphic descriptions of eastern life and mannera
Having accomplished what he desired in this direction, Stanley set his face
toward England and once again arrived in the land of his birth, where
the scenes of his early boyhood were laid.

It is one of the characteristics of a noble nature that it does not forge,
its early struggles and experiences. The remembrance of poverty has no
pain for the man who has risen above it and made himself the master o.
circumstances. It is a tribute to Mr. Stanley's worth that he did not for-
get the old almshouse, where his early days were spent. One of the first
thing-? he did after arriving in England was to visit this very place, there
recalling scenes through which he had passed years before.

y himself with
id not appeal

ake any labor
received from
; could travel
ring in other
ace, and send
h the certainty
;k in obtaining
;erness for it is
journals have
of our people
importance is

hich shows the
le they encoun-
lem and robbed
lot an unusual
un continuous
tion of reckless
r United States
to him ; he im-
lis friends and
s. Mr. Morris
12: loaned them
t will be under-
the Nezv York
and mannera
nley set his face
lis birth, where

does not forge.

■ poverty has nc

:lf the master o.
he did not for-
One of the first

ery place, there

THE CELEBRATED EXPLORERS OF THE WORLD.

(28)

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

:4-

All accounts agree that this visit was very interesting ; it was so to
the one who was making it and also to those who were receiving it. The
children whom Stanley knew as inmates of this place had grown up and
most of them had gone out into the world, but " the poor ye have always
with you," and there were other little ones, with wan faces, whose sad
life appealed to the heart of the great traveller.

Stanley resolved to give these little people a right good dinner, and we
may be sure the intention was received with as much enthusiasm on the
part of those who were to partake of the dinner as it was formed on the
the part of the benefactor.

The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse.

On this occasion Stanley appeared in his true light, the nature of the
man showing itself That nature is one of essential kindness, as has
, been shov/n through all his explorations, ^becoming severe anJ haughty
only for effect and when such exhibition of sternness is absolutely
required. Of course the little people at the poorhouse of St. Asaph
were delighted ; their efficiency in disposing of that dinner was both
conspicuous and admirable, and after they had been fed and filled, there
wa,3 another treat m store for them. They were to have a talk from the
one who had made them so happy, and were to hear a brief account of
some of his tr- /els and wanderings. Stanley addressed them in plain,
simple, child's language, showing at once his adaptation to all classes and
conditions of people. The little folks were delighted to hear his stories;
more than this, they received from him words of instruction and encour-
agement, which, if remembered and heeded, must have made them by
this time strong men and women. .

We next find Stanley back again in the United States. This was m
the year 1 867 ; he was then but little more than twenty-five years of age,
but he had passed through more than most men do in a long lifetime ;
had already seer more of the world than many well-known travellers;
had been in more dangers than many who have written strange tales of
their adventures ; and had obtained a general knowledge of the world
at large, which is some considerable part of the capital of every well-
furnished man. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the Ntw York
Herald, gave him a hearty reception, and with his shrewd eye saw at
once the prize he had obtained and the kind of man with whom he had
to deal.

About this time ihe King of Abyssin.a, who was one of the subjects
of Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, became very restless, thought he was
entitled to tl>e management of his own affairs, and created such a dis-

STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE.

; it was so to
eiving it. The
grown up and
ye have always
ces, whose sad

dinner, and we
usiasm on the
formed on the

i nature of the
ndness, as has
2 and haughty
; is absolutely
; of St. Asaph
nner was both
,nd filled, there

1 talk from the
)rief account of

them in plain,
all classes and
ear his stories ;
on and encour-
made them by

•

This was m

'e years of age,

long lifetime;

Dwn travellers;

trange tales of

2 of the world
of every well-
the Ntw York

vd eye saw at
whom he had

of the subjects
jought he was
ed such a dis-

'■S*

turbance and mutiny against the formidable powers of Britain that an
expedition was sent out to straighten his tangled affairs and bring him
into becoming submission. A spirit of adventure always gathers about
such an expedition as this. Not only among the regular forces is there
sometimes an eagerness for the new country and the excitement of the
campaign, but there are always followers who have business of one kind
or another, and who are captivated with the opportunities afforded to
gratify their roving dispositions. The war correspondent may not always
be of this description, but he must be a man of peculiar characteristics.
Graphic Description of Abyssinian Warfare.

It is scarcely necessaiy to say that as Abyssinia was the central point
of interest at this time, Stanley received permission to accompany the
English forces and give detailed accounts of their operations. His letters
attracted wide attention and were read with eager interest. While not
the letters of a highly edu dted man, they were the productions of one
who was peculiarly fitted for his work, and who could seize upon just
those points which were of interest to the general public, and who could
express them in language at once graphic aad plain, and could thus fas-
cinate a wide circle of readers.

Stanley was not disheartened by any difficulties- in short, he was
rather looking for some opportunity to perform achievements such as
other men would not be likely to undertake, and such as would give him
reputation and renown. Wher. the last battle '\t^s fought in this Abys-
sinian campaign, official dispatches, of course, were sent to London.
Stanley's messages outstripped all official dispatches and brought the first
news of the victory to the ears of the British people. When inquiries
were made in London as to the progress of the battle, they were answered
by the government officials with the statement that it was not yet over.
Suddenly Stanley's dispatches arrived, with the statement that tb^; battle
was over, and at a later period this announcement was officially confirmed.
This of itself was enough to give Stanley fame as a newspaper corre-
spondent. It was not a little humiliating to those ponderous official
bodies, which move slowly, to learn that a live Yankee had outstripped
them and got ahead of all their calculations. Not only was he expert in
getting the news ahead, but his description of this campaic^n is universally
considered as the very best and most accurate that has ever been written.

Visit to Spain.
The next year, i868, found Stanley again in the United States, not
long to remain, however. A civil war was raging at tliis time in Spain.
Very soon we find Star.ley again in Europe, actually 'taking his position

WONDERS OF THE TROPICa

upon the battle-fields to be a spectator of the conflicts, then relating with
minuteness what had taken place, and giving a graphic description of the
scenes which he had witnessed. His letters at this time gave a very-
accurate idea of Spanish affairs. He not only saw the events, but he saw
the forces which had produced them. For a long time there had been
political strife in Spain; the position of the contending parties, the ideas
that were clamoring for the ascendant, all this was given as with a photo-
graphic lens by the brilliant correspondent, and was made known to the
world at large. The same promptness and energy which had previously
distinguished him came out vividly in his life in Spain. Just here we
have one of the most striking chapters in the career of the great

explorer.

"What Has Become of Livingstone?"

It must be evident by this time to the reader that Stanley was at home
everywhere. He did not stop to consider climate, country, language or
hardships when he was to undertake one of his daring enterprises. His
first plan had been to remain in Spain for a long period of time, content-
ing himself to sojourn in that land which, for Americans, has compara-
tively few attractions. This plan, however, was sud'lenly abandoned.
There was another and more famous field for his spirit of adventure.
David Livingstone was in Africa. This man, whose name has gone into
all the earth, was the marvel of his time, possessing, and in an equally
eminent degree, many, of those characteristics which belong to the hero
whose early life we are relating. It was a bold conception on the part
of Livingstone to enter the wilds "of the Dark Continent, explore the
mysteries that had puzzled the world for ages, learn the character of the
African tribes, obtain a knowledge of the geography of that vast continent,
and thereby prepare the way for commerce and for those missionary
labors which were to bring civilization to the land that had long been
lying in darkness.

Livingstone had long been absent and the curiosity which was awak-
ened concerning his fate amounted even to anxiety. He had many per-
sonal friends in England and Scotland who had taken great interest in
his travels, and who were eager now to obtain some information con- ,
cerning him. The probabilities of his fate were freely discussed in news-
papers and journals, and among many the opinion prevailed that the
great discoverer would never return to his native land alive. The ques-
tion, "What has become of Livingstone?" was agitating both hemis-
pheres; a singular instance of the interest which, by forces of circum-
stances, will sometimes gather around a single great character.

n relating with
jcription of the
le gave a very
nts, but he saw
here had been
rties, the ideas
5 with a photo-
: known to the
had previously
Just here we
of the great

;y was at home
Y, language or
terprises. His

time, content-
, has compara-
ily abandoned.

of adventure.

has gone into

in an equally
ng to the hero
n on the nart
nt, explore the
laracter of the
vast continent,
3se missionary

lad long been

h was awak-
ad many per-
?at interest in
brmation con- ,
issed in ncAvs-
ailed that the
The ques-
both hemis-
es of circuna*
ter.

C27)

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i r

= :|

1 i:

■■•I Wi

James Gordon Bennett was just the one to solve the all-perplexing
question. Was Livingstone alive ? If alive, in what part of Africa was
he located ? Or was he dead ? Could any intelligence of him be
obtained ? Where was the bold spirit who would venture out into that
wild and threatening region and answer the questions which were so
freely raised concerning this one man ? It was believed that if the great
explorer was alive, his trail could be followed, and, although it would
cost an almost superhuman effort, he could be found. To find him
would be sufficient glory for any one man, and the journal that should
record such an achievement as this would stand in the front rank of the
great newspapers of America and England. Mr. Bennett resolved to
make the trial, and, of course, Henry M. Stanley was the one selected
for this daring expedition. Mr. Bennett was in Paris and suddenly
summoned Mr. Stanley from Spain. This unexpected recall somewhat
astonished Stanley, yet there was an intimation in his mind that some
bold undertaking was planned, and with high hopes he immediately
made the journey to Paris. He arrived late at night, but would not
5leep until after an interview with the one who had summoned him.
For a long time the project was discussed, and before that first interview
was concluded, it appeared to both to be a practicable scheme to under-
take the discovery of Livingstone.

Offers of Help Rejected.

It came to the ears of the Royal Geographical Society of London that
an attempt was to be made to obtain information concerning the lost
explorer. This Society, which has had a long and honorable career and
has done much towards opening parts of the world that had hitherto
been scaled against all the advances of civilization, offered to bear a part
of the expenses that would be incurred in sending Mr. Stanley into
the continent of Africa. Mr. Bennett, however, was willing to undertake
the matter alone, bear all the expenses and keep himself free from any
dictation on the part of those who would have all sorts of opinions to
express and plans to propose, and would think that these should be
regarded because they were bearing a part of the expenses. The decis-
ion was a wise one, and Stanley was left perfectly free to follow out his
own ideas, go where he wished, remain as long as he pleased, only agree-
ing to do his utmost to solve the problem which all the nations of
Christendom had on hand.

Th^ account given by Stanley himjelf of the commission received
from Mr. Bennett is somewhat amusing. It is as follows: On the
sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight

STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE.

hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at
Valencia. At lO a.m. I received a telegram. It read, "Come to Paris
on important business." The telegram was from Mr. James Gordon
Bennett, Jr., the young manager of the New York Herald.

Sudden Start for PariH.

Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the
second floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes
were hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half
dry, and after a couple of hours hasty hard work my portmanteaus were
strapped up and labelled " Paris."

At 3 p. M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a
"ew hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight
fto the " Grand Hotel," and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room.

" Come in," I heard a voice say.

Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed.

"Who are you?" he asked.

" My name is Stanley," I answered.

"Ah, yes! sit down ; I have important business on hand for you."

After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre, Mr. Bennett
Jisked, " Where do you think Livingstone is ? "

" I really do not know, sir."

" Do you think he is alive ? "

" He may be, and he may not," I answered.

" Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to

nd you to find him."

" What ! " said I, " do you really think I can find Dr. Livingstone?
o you mean me to go to Central Africa ?"

" Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear
hat he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps " — deliver-
ng himself thoughtfully and deliberately—" the old man may be in want:

take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of course
ou will act according to your own plans, and do what you think best

BUT FIND Livingstone!"

Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa
o search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men. be-
eved to be dead, " Have you considered seriously the great expense you
e likely to incur on account of this little journey ?"
" What will it cost?" he asked abruptly.

" Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between ^^3,000
nd ;^5,ooo, and I fear it cannot be done under ;^2,5oo."

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

I .11

:. ' 1^

*' Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds
now, and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and
when that is spent draw another thousand, and when you have finished
(hat, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, find Livingstone."

Surprised but not confused at the order — for I knew that Mr. Bennett
when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his
purpose — I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he
had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case ;
I said, " I have heard that should your father die you would sell the
Herald and retire from business."

" Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not money enough in
New York city to buy the New York Herald. My father has made it a great
paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a newspa-
per in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish v/hatever
news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost."

" After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me
to go straight to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone ? "

" No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first,
and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper
Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up
describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists ; and then
write up a guide — a practical one — for Lower Egypt ; tell us about what-
ever is worth seeing and how to see it.

A Longr Journey Planned.
" Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear Captain Warren is
making some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople,
and find out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan.

" Then — let me see — you might as well visit the Crimea and those old
battle-grounds. Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; I
hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence ycjg
may get through Persia to India ; you could write an interesting letter|
from Persepolis.

" Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppo^s you go there,!
and write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. ThenL
when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probabhl
you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar;
but if not, go into the interior and find him. If alive, get what news oil
his discoveries you can ; and if you find he is dead, bring all possiblcl
proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be witif
you."

STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE.

housand pounds
ler thousand, and
3U have finished

INGSTONE."

that Mr. Bennett
,vn aside from his
scheme, that he
cons of the case ;
u would sell the

noney enough in
has made it a great
shall be a newspa-

publish v/hatever
; cost."

Do you mean me

: Suez Canal first,
starting for Upper
and as you go up
tourists; and then
tell us about what-

Captain Warren is
sit Constantinople
ind the Sultan,
imea and those old

" Good-night sir," I said ; " what it is in the power of human nature
to do I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be
with me."

The foregoing is Mr. Stanley's interesting account of the manner in
which he received one of the most important and difficult commissions
ever given to mortal man. The whole story shows the bold, quick,
impulsive nature of men who move the world. To think, is to decide;
to decide, is to act ; to act, is to achieve.

Without anticipating those striking experiences through which Stan-
ley has to pass in the narrative we have before us, suffice it to say that*
in due time he arrived in Africa. Having started from Zanzibar with an
expedition, the formation of which gave him an opportunity to show his
perseverance and tact, he began his long search. Difficulties that would
have appalled other men at the outset were as nothing to him; obstacles
.were cast aside as by a faith that moves mountains into the sea.
Threatening dangers did not turn him from his lofty purpose. On he
%ent across plains, down through valleys, through tangled jungles, over
almost impassable rivers, displaying everywhere and always the most
wonderful heroism and endurance, until the world was startled at his
discovery and will evermore applaud his magnificent achievements.

Wild and Barbarous Country.

No one who has never explored the wilds of Africa can understand
the nature of the undertaking which Stanley had before him. In our
land we can travel into almost every section by railways, by stage
•coaches, or by steamboats. None of these facilities for travelling were
to be found in Africa, at least in that part of it that Stanley was to visit,
ome of these means of transit could be created, but they were not in
xistence, and to the explorer was left the double work not merely of

tie Caspian Sea ; I^^conducting the expedition, but also of preparing the way for it.

From thence yea
n interesting letter^

o=e you go there,l
Railway. Then!
ngstone. Probably f
s way to Zanzibar;

, get what news 01
1, bring all possible 1

and God be withl

Thrilling tales have been told of the dangers attending all journeys in
le Dark Continent. Every boo <: which has bpen written is alive with
these tales of adventure. No work has ever been published on Africa
[which does not read more like a romance than reality. We look upon
the map, we see the location of the various provinces, we trace the great
rivers winding their way towards the ocean, and, not understanding the
true character of the country, it may seem to us to be a simple thing to
iss from one point to another. It is much easier to travel by map than
any other way.

When Livingstone went to Africa he could go but a little way inland
rom the coast without finding his progress barred. While it was left to

5,1

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Stanley to follow in his track, there was sometimes a difficulty in learning
the path which Livingstone had taken, and it was also very difficult for
a man unused to African exploration to complete so long a journey
without any previous experience. These things render Stanley's final
success all the more wonderful, and it is not surprising that all readers
become, intensely interested in the story of the man and his exploits.

Many have been the failures on the part of other explorers, while those
who have gone out like Gordon Gumming, merely for the purpose oi
sport, have learned the dangers which lie in every step of progress
through the jungles of Africa. It requires a man of a venturesome
spirit, a strong nerve, an indomitable will, and a ready disposition to
make all manner of sacrifices, to do what has been done in modern times
toward opening the Tropics to trte advance of civilization. It will be
seen by the following pages what Stanley has accomplished, and the
wonder is that one man should have succeeded not only in finding
Livingstone but also in crossing the continent from sea to sea.

The manner in which the world has followed the travels of Mr. Stanley
would indicate a personal interest in him and his welfare. He becomes
better known than most men whom we do not see, and we are compelled
to enter heartily into sympathy with his plans, his trials, his victories.
This is the mysterious influence which one strong character has over
others. We become absorbed in the marvelous story of this man's ad-
ventures. We follow him eagerly step by step. We are amazed at each
new revelation, and inquire what greater achievement is to follow. Henry
M. Stanley is one of the great heroes of modern times.

If:*^

^P-I:

Ity in learning
ry difficult for
ng a journey
Stanley's final
tiat all readers
i exploits,
rs, while those
he purpose o.
p of progress
I venturesome
disposition to
modern times
•n. It will be
lished, and the
.nly in finding
sea.

of Mr. Stanley

He becomes

: are compelled

his victories.

acter has over

his man's ad-

imazed at each

follow. Henry

CHAPTER II.

THRILLING AD\'ENTURES IN AFRICA.

Mncn a World of Surprises and Wonders— Journeys of Livingstone— The Young
Scotch Boy—Born of Noble Parentage— An Ancestry of Sturdy Scotch Qualities-
David's Factory Life— Eager Thirst for Knowledge— Tending the Loom, with
One Eye on His Book— Studying Latin— A Lover of Heroic Deeds— Early
Promise of Rising to Distinction— Resolves to Become a Medical Missionary in
China— Departure for Africa— Physical Nerve and Endurance— Encounter with a
Ferocious Lion— Livingstone's Narrow Escape— Gordon Cumming's Descrip-
tion of the Noble Beast— A Powerful Animal— Beauty of the Lion— Roar of the
Forest King— Frightful Ferocity— The Lion's Fearlessness— Requirements ol
Lion Hunters— Brave Character of Livingstone.

a WORLD of surprises, of captivating wonders, opens before us as
we approach the Continent of Africa. Before relating in detail
the great achievements of Stanley, particularly his world-re-
nowned achievement of finding Livingstone, it will be interesting
to the reader to have some account of the life and travels of the cele-
brated explorer whom Stanley sought and found. The journeys of Liv-
ingstone have a thrilling interest and are here narrated.

David Livingstone was a sturdy Scotchman. There appeared to be
somewhat of the granite in him which belongs to the highlands of his
native country. His child-life was at Blantyre, by the beautiful Clyde,
above Glasgow, in Scotland. He was bom there in the year 1813. The
humble home entertained some proud traditions, treasured through eight
generations of the family. The young David listened with bounding
heart and glowing spirit while his grandfather told the histories and
legends of the olden time. Culloden was in the story. His great-grand-
father fell there, fighting for the old line of kings ; and " Ulva Dark," the
[family home, had been there. Old Gaelic songs trembled off the lips
of his grandmother, beguiling the social hours. There was the spirit of
I heroism in the home.

And among the traditions there were those of singular virtue and i)»-
[tegrity. He classed the dying precept of a hardy ancestor the proudest
Idistinction of his family ; that precept was, " Be honest." Honesty is a
[matchless birthright; he claimed it; he was not proud of anything else.
[His father wa^ a man of " unflinching honesty," and was employed by
le proprietors of Blantyre Works, in conveying very large sums of

. 8 (33)

^i:

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

1 f ) i! • j

<•

money from Glascjow, and by the honorable kindness of the firm his
integrity was so rewarded tliat his declining years were spent where he
had lived, in ease a:vJ comfort. He was a man who kept the hearts of
his child en. His kindness and real love were sweeter to them than all
'it wealth sometimes bestows as its peculiar gift. He brought his

DAVID LIVINGSTONE.

hildren up religiously; it was in connection with the Kirk of Scot-
land.

. It is a beautiful tribute of his illustrious son : " My father deserved my
lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me from my .infancy with a
continuously consistent pious example. I revere his memory." The

THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA.

ie brought his

e Kirk of Scot- ^

mother of the man appears briefly, and passes from the public view. She
was a quiet, lovin<j, industrious, self-denying, prayin<r mother. God
knows how to choose mothers for the chosen men. This mother was
the mother of a great and good man. .She was a woman who, by her
virtue and modesty, and fortitude and courage, could bear a hero and
inspire him for his destiny. " An anxious house-wife, striving to make
both ends meet," found time and place to exert a true woman's singular
and mighty influence upon her little boy. We will not presume to esti-
mate the magnitude of that influence. We will not say how much his
home had to do with the singular thoughtfulness and distinguished pre-
[cocity of the child that toiled all day long in the mill with the hundreds
I who worked there. David Livingstone was only ten years old when he
was put into the factory.

People ought not to despise little factory-boys. He worked from six
in the morning until eight at night; that makes fourteen hours a day,
md a child just ten years of age. There were very good schools at
Blantyre ; the teachers were paid one hundred and twenty-five dollars a
year. The schools were free to the children of the working people.
David had been in one of these schools. He must have been well
advanced for his age. The impulse that his mind received in the com-
mon school was aided by the attrrctions of the great University at

Glasgow.

A Ijover of Heroic Deeds.

Boys in the neighborhood of great colleges have earlier and loftier
aspirations perhaps. Anyhow we are informed that a part of David
jLivingstone's first week's wages went for " Ruddiman's Rudiments of
* itin," and that he pressed the study of that language with peculiar
irdor, in an evening school, from eighi to ten o'clock, during a number
lof years. There are many grown men who mourn over their ignorance
/hose work does not fill fourteen hours a day. In those evening hours,
nth a little tired child-body, Livingstone mastered the Latin language^
md accomplished much in general reading. When he was sixteen years
)ld, he was quite in advance of his age. The diligence and self control
jf the boy was the prophecy of the man. At this early age, too, the
seculiar tastes and talents which rendered his subsequent life singularly
successful and vested his work with singular interest began to appear.

He did not love novels : he loved facts. He was not charmed with the

raven fancies of effeminacy. He delighted in stories of adventure; he

/as always glad to put his hand in the hand of the historian, and be led

iway from familiar scenes to the new and the strange and the difficult

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The hero spirit was in him. This love of the new and eagerness for
travel were tempered and sanctified by an appreciation of the real and
the useful. He had delight in scientific books and experiments. The
honv: of his childhood was admirably adapted for the development of
nobl ; cliarac.er. There was a population of nearly three thousand.

The people were "good specimens of the Scottish poor," as he tells us
himself, "in honesty, morality and intelligence." There were all sorts of
people, of cours"; they were generally awake to all public questions;
their interest was intelligent; there were some characters of uncommon
worth; these persons felt peculiar interest in the thoughtful, studious lad.
There were near at hand many spots hallowed in Scottish history — spots
with venerable associations. The Scottish people love old associations;
they treasure the dear memorials of the past. The ancient domains of
Bothvvell stood with open door to these respected villagers. David
Livingstone was one of the people, and loved these scenes; he knew
their history, all their old traditions were in his heart. Even the boy
.seemed to be more than a boy , the man stood in the background, and
was outlined cleady in the character of the youth.
* Departure for Africa.

At this early age David gave sign of rising above his mates, gaining
distinction in some honorable calling, aiid becoming an illustrious exam-
ple of self-reliance and energy. When promoted at the age of nineteen
to cotton-spinning, he took his books to the factory, and read by placing
one of them on a portion of the spinning-jenny, so that he ";'>uld catch
sentence after sentence as he passed at his work. He was well paid,
however, and having determined to prepare himself for becoming a med-
ical missionary abroad, was enabled, by working with his hands in
summer, to support himself while attending medical and Greek classes in
Glasgow in winter, as also the divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlow. He
was thus able to pass the lequired examinations, and was at length ad-
mitted a licen- iate of the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons.

Having been charged by the Directors of the London Missionary So-
ciety to carry on and extend the work of Moffat, Livingstone arrived in
Cape Town in the summer ot 1840, and, after a short rest, started for the
interior by way of Algoa Ray. A j )urney of seven hundred miles, of which,
so far as we have been able to ascert-iin, no record has been published,
brought him to Lattaku, then tirj furthest missionary station of South
Africa. Here he remained oii'y long enough to recruit his o.xen before
he pressed on northwaiJs t^ that part of the country inhabited by the
section of the Bjchuana t. ibj kiKjwn as the Bakwains. Having satisfied

THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA.

e of nineteen

himself of the existence of a promising field for missionary effort, he re-
turned to the Kuruman station, rested there for three months, and then
took up his quarters in the Bakwain country itself, at the present Litu-
baruba, at that time known as Lepelole. '

Determined to neglect nothi^ig which could in any way promote his
success with the nadves, Livingstone now cut himself off from all inter-
course with Europeans for six months, devoting himself to acquiring an
nsight into the habits, ways of thinking, laws, and language of the
Bechuanas, and in laying the foundations of a settlement by making a
canal for irrigation purposes from a river near by.

A Man Stronger Than He Looked.

These prd'minaries being well advanced, our hero paid a visit to the
Bakaa, Bamangwato, and the Makalaka. The greater part of this trip
was performed on foot, the draught oxen being ill, and some of the na-
tives forming the escort observed in Livingstone's hearing, not knowing
that he understood them — " He is not strong; he is quite slim, and only
seems stout because he puts himself into those bags [trousers]; he will
break down." Stung by these derogatory remarks on his appearance,
Livingstone revenged himself by keeping the whole party at highest
speed for several days, and was rewarded later by hearing them speak
more respectfully of his pedestrian powers.

Having, without knowing it, approached to within ten days' journey
of Lake N'gami, afterwards discovered by him, our hero went back to
Kuruman to bring his luggage to the site of his proposed settlement, but
before he could do so, came the disappointing news that the Bakwains,
with whom he had become friendly, had been driven from Lepelole by
the Baralongs, rendering it impossible for him to carry out his original
plan. With the courage and energy which distinguished him from the
first, Livingstone at once set about looking for some other site, and after
a journey to Bamangwato, to restore to chief Sekomi several of his peo-
ple who had come down with him to the Kuruman, and for whose safe«>
he felt responsible, he selected the beautiful valley of Mabotsa, the home
of the Makatla branch of the Bechuana tribe, where he removed in 1843.

Here the chief difficulty to contend with ^«: first was the number and'
ierocity of the lions, which not only leaped into the cattle pens of the
village of Mabotsa at night, but sometimes attacked the herds in broad
daylight. Expeditions sent out against the marauders returned without
having achieved any success, and knowing that if but one of the troop of
lions were killed the others would take alarm and leave the country,
Livingstone determined himself to join a sortie against them.

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

': :i«

:t;'!(l

"ffw

Great was the consternation of the natives, who firmly believed that a

neighboripnf tribe had given them into the power of these merciless

animals. Their attacks upon them were feeble and half-hearted, so

that hitherto the lions had come off victors. Livingstone now came to

their aid, and the cry was —

" Mount ! mount for the hunting ! the lion is near !
The cattlt: and herdsmen are quakinjj with fear.
Call tlie dogs ! light the torches ! away to the glen !
If needs be, we'll beard the fierce brute in his den."

They discovered their t^aine on a small tree-covered hill. The circle
of hunters, at first loosely formed around the spot, gradually closed up,
and became compact as they advanced towards it. Mebalwe, a native
schoolmaster, who was with Livingstone, seeing ore of the lions sitting
on a piece of rock within the ring, fired but missed him, the ball striking
the rock by the feet of the animal, which, biting first at the spot struck,
bounded away, broke through the circle, and escaped, the natives not
having the courage to stand close and spear him in the attempt, as they
should have done. The circle re formed, having yet within it two other
lions, at which the pieces could not be fired, lest some of the men
on the opposite side should be hit. Again there was a boupd and a
roar, and yet again ; and the natives scattered and fled, while the lions
went forth free to continue their devastations.

«* He is Shot ! He is Sliot ! »»

But they did not seem to have retreated far, for as the party was
going round the end of a hill on their way home to the village, there
was one of the lordly brutes sitting quietly, as though he had purposely
planted himself there to enjoy their defeat, and wish them "Good-day."
It was but a little distance from Livingstone, who, raising his gun, fired
both barrels. "He is shot! He is shot!" j the j.oyful cry, and the
people are about to rush in ; but their friend warns them, for he sees the
tail raised in anger. He is just in the act of ramming down his bullets
for another fire, when he hears a shout of terror, and sees the lion in
the act of springing on him. He is conscious only of a blow that make.'
him reel and fall to the ground ; of two glaring eyes, and hot breath
upon his face; a momentary anguish, as he is seized by the shoulder and
shaken as a rat by a terrier ; then comes a stupor, which was afterwards
described as a sort of drowsiness, in which there was no sense of pain
nor feeling of terrov, although there was a perfect consciousness of all
that was happening.

Being thus conscious, as one in a trance might be, Livingstone knew

lieved that a
se merciless
■-hearted, so
now came to

1 The circle
Uy closed up,
alwe, a native
,e lions sitting

2 ball striking
; spot struck,
le natives not
cmpt, as they
n it two other
le of the men

boupd and a
vhile the lions

le party was
village, there

lad purposely
' Good-day."
his gun, fired
cry, and the

or he sees the

)wn his bullets
s the lion in
-»w that makei

nd hot breath
shoulder and

was afterwards
sense of pain
ousnoss of all

ingstone knew

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

||ll|

that the Hon had one paw on the back of his head, and, turning round to
reUeve himself of the pressure, he saw the creature's eyes directed to
Mebaiwe, who, at a distance of ten or fifteen yards, was aiming his gun
at him. It missed fire in bodi barrels, and immediately the native
teacher was attacked by the brute and bitten in the thigh. Another
man also, who attempted to spear the lion, was seized by the shoulder;
but then the bullets which he had received took eflfect, and, with a quiver
through all his huge frame, tho cattle-lifter rolled over on his side dead.

A Narrow Escape.

All this occurred in a few moments ; the death-blow had been inflicteo
by Livingstone before the Lion sprang upon him in the blind fury of his
dying efforts. No less than eleven of his teeth had penetrated the flesh
of his assailant's arm, and crushed the bone ; it was long ere the wound
was 1 jaled, and all through life the intrepid missionary bore the marks
of this deadly encounter, and felt its effects in the injured limb: The
tartan jacket which he had on, wiped, as he believed, the virus from the
lion's teeth, and so preserved him from much after-suffering, such as was
experienced by the others who were bitten and had not this protection.

These ferocious beasts are a constant menace to travellers in some
parts of Afiica. Of course, if one goes out for the purpose of indulging
in sport and shooting gapie, he is not disconcerted when he meets the
king of the forest in his native lairs. Cumming's account of his en-
countvjio with lions is so graphic and interesting that it is here inserted
in connection with the thrilling story, already related, of Livingstone
and the lion.

Mr. Gumming first describes the appearance and habits of the noble
beast. This is the account of one of the world's most famous hunters,
whose journeys in the Tropics in pursuit of adventure, have attracted
universal attention, and have awakened the most eager interest. The
dignified and truly monarchical appearance of the lion, says Mr. Gum-
ming, has long rendered him famous among his fellow quadrupeds.
There is something so noble and imposing in the presence of the lion,
when seen walking with dignified self-possession, free and undaunted, on
his native soil, that no description can convey an adequate idea of his
striking appearance. The lion is exquisitely formed by nature for the
predatory habits which he is destined to pursue, Gombining in compara-
tively small compass the qualities of power and agility, he is enabled, by
means of the tremendous machinery with which nature has gifted him,
easily to overcome and destroy ..Imost every beast of the forest, however
superior to him in weight and stature.

THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA.

•ning round to
'es directed to
iming his gun
sly the native
igh. Another
the shoulder ;
, with a quivej
lis side dead.

] been inflicteo
ind fury of his
rated the flesh
ere the wound
ore the marks
ed limb: The
virus from the
g, such as was
his protection,
ellers in some
se of indulging

he meets the
unt of his en-

here inserted
)( Livingstone

Though considerably under four feet in height, he has little dif?iculty
in dashing to the ground and overcoming the lofty and apparently pow-
erful giraffe, whose head towers above the trees of the forest, and whose
skin is nearly an inch in thickness. The lion is the constant attendant of
the vast herds of buffaloes which frequent the interminable lorests of the
interior; and a full-grown one, so long as his teeth are unbroken, gener
ally proves a match for an old bull buffalo, which in size and strength
greatly surpasses the most powerful breed of American cattle ; the lion
also preys on all the larger varieties of the antelopes, and on both varie-

^'-V,""? \^-^

■<i)Awi' ;?■'■. ^^'''-4": -5^ I

LIONS CAPTUKING A BUFFALO

ties of the gnoo. The zebra, which is met with in large herds through-
out the interior, is also a favorite object of his pursuit.

Lions do not refuse, as has been asserted, to feed upon the venison that
they have not killed themselves. I have repeatedly discovered lions of
ill ages which had taken possession of, and were feasting upon, the car-
:ases of various game quadrupeds which had fallen before my ride.
^ The lion is very generally diffused throughout the secluded parts of
Southern Africa. He is, however, nowhere met with in great abund-
ice, it being very rare to find more than three, or even two families of

¥li

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

lions frequenting the same district and diinkin^j at the same fountain.
When a greater number were met with, I remarked that it was owing to
long-protracted droughts, which, by drying nearly all the fountains, had
compelled the game of various districts to crowd the remaining springs,
and the lions, according to their custom, followed in the wake.

Beauty of the Lion.

It is a common thing to come upon a full-grown lion and lioness asso-
ciating with three or four large ones nearly full grown ; at other times,
full-grown males will be found associating and hunting together in a
happy state of friendship ; two, three, and four full-grown male lions may
thus be discovered consorting together.

The male lion is adorned with a long, rank, shaggy mane, which in
some instances almost sweeps the ground. The color of these manes
varies, some being dark, and others of a golden yellow. This appear-
ance has given rise to a prevailing opinion among the Boers that there
are two distinct' varieties of lions, which they distinguish by the respec-
tive names of " Schwart fore life " and " Chiel fore life ; " this idea, how-
ever, is erroneous. The color of the lion's mane is generally influenced
by his age. He attains his mane in the third year of his existence. I
have remarked that at first it is of a yellowish color ; in the prime of life
it is blackest, and when he has numbered many years, but still is in the
full enjoyment of his power, it assumes a yellowish-gray, pepper-and-salt
sort of color.

These old fellows are cunning and dangerous, and most to be dreaded.
The females are utterly destitute of a mane, being covered with a short,
thick, glossy coat of tawny hair. The manes and coats of Hons frequent-
ing open-lying districts utterly destitute of trees, such as the borders of
the great Kalahari desert, are more rank and handsome than those inhab-
iting fertile districts.

The Roar of the Forest King.

One of the most striking things connected with the lion is his voice,
which is extremely grand and peculiarly striking. It consists at times of
a low, deep moaning, repeated five or six times, ending in faintly audible
sighs ; at other times he startles the forest with loud, deep-toned, solemn
roars, repeated five or six times in quick succession, each increasing in
loudness to the third or fourth, when his voice dies away in five or six
low, muffled sounds, very much resembling distant thunder.

At times, and not unfrequently, a troop may be heard roaring in con-
cert, one assuming the lead, and two, three, or four more regularly takfng
up their parts, like persons singing a catch. Like Scottish stags, they

THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA.

Tiane, which in
of these manes
This appear-
3ers that there
by the respec-
this idea, how-
rally influenced
is existence. I
ne prime of hfe
It still is in the
pepper-and-salt

ion is his voice,
isists at times of
I faintly audible
p-toned, solemn
increasing in
in five or six
er.

roaring in con-
egularly takfng
tish stags, they

Iroar loudest in cold, frosty nights ; but on no occasions are their voices to
je heard in such perfection, or so intensely powerful, as when two or three
strange troops of lions approach a fountain to drink at the same time.
When this occurs, every member of each troop sounds a bold roar of de-
iance at the opposite parties ; and when one roars, ail roar together, and
ich seems to vie with his comrades in the intensity and power of his voice.
The power and grandeur of these nocturnal forest concerts is inconceiv-
ibly striking and pleasing to the hunter's ear. The effect, I may remark,
is greatly enhanced when the hearer happens to be situated in the depths
)f the forest, at the dead hour of midnight, unaccompanied by any attend-
it, and ensconced within twenty yards of the fountain which the sur-
rounding troops of lions are approaching. Such has been my situation
lany scores of times ; and though I am allowed to have a tolerably good
iste for music, I consider the catches with which I was then regaled as
le sweetest and most natural I ever heard.

As a general rule, lions roar during the night; their sighing moans

)mmencing as the shades of evening envelop the forest, and continuing

intervals throughout the night. In distant and secluded regions, how-

kr, I have constantly heard them roaring loudly as late as nine and ten

(clock on a bright sunny morning. In hazy and rainy weather they are

be heard at every hour in the day, but their roar is subdued.

Frightful Ferocity.
It often happens that when two strange male lions meet at a fountain a
jrrific combat ensues, v/hich not unfrequently ends in the death of one of
lem. The habits of the lion are strictly nocturnal ; during the day he
pes concealed beneath the shade of some low bushy tree v,r vvide-spread-
Ig bush, either in the level forest or on the mountain side. He is also
)artial to lofty reeds, or fields of long, rank yellow grass, such as occur
low-lying vales. From these haunts he sallies forth when the sun goes
iown, and commences his nightly prowl. When he is successful in his
:at and has secured his prey, he does not roar much that night, only
Ittering occasionally a few low moans ; that is, provided no intruders
(ipproach him, otherwise the case would be very different.

Lions are ever most active, daring and presuming in dark and stormy
lights, and consequentlv, on such occasions, the traveler ought more par-
[icularly to be on his guard. I remarked a fact connected with the lions'
lour of drinking peculiar to themselves : they seemed unwilling to visit
Jhe fountains with good moonlight. Thus, when the moon rose early,
[he lions deferred their hour of watering until late in the morning; and
^hen the moon rose late, they drank fit a very early hour in the night

-- jfT ._

♦ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

f!-4

By this acute system many a grisly lion saved his bacon, and is now lux-
uriating in the forest of South Africa, which had otherwise fallen by the

barrels of my gun.

The Lion's Fearlessness.

Owing to the tawny color of the coat u ith which nature has robed him
he is perfectly invisible in the dark; and although I have often heard
them loudly lapping the water under rv very nose, not twenty yards frorr
TIC, I could not possibly make out so much as the outlines of their forms.
/ When a thirsty lion comes to wat^r he 'stretches out his massive arms,
iies down on his breast to drink, and makes a loud lapping noise in drink
ing not to be mistaken. He continues lapping up the water for a long
wnile, and four or five times during the proceeding he pauj.es for half a
minute as if to take breath.

One -hing conspicuous about them is their eyes, which, in a dark night,
glow like two balls of fire. The female is more fierce and active than the
male, as a general rule. Lionesses which have never had young are
much more dangerous than those which have. At no time is thi lion so
much to be dreaded as when his partner has got small young ones. At
that season he knows no fjar, and, in the coolest anc most intrepid man
ner, he will face a thousand men. A remarkable instance of this kind
came under my own obse'^vation, which confirmed the reports I had
before heard from the natives.

One day, when out elephant hunting in the territory of the Baseleka,
accompanied by two hundred and fifty men, I was astonished suddenly to
behold a majestic lion slowly and ' teadily advancing towards us with a
dignified step and undaunted bearing, the most noble and imposing that
can be conceived. Lashing his tail from side to side, and growling
haughtily, his terribly expressive eye resolutely fixed upon us, and dis-
playing a show of ivory well calculated to inspire terror among the timid
Bcchuanas, he approached.

A Lion Puts to Flight 250 Men.

A headlong flight of the two hundred and fifty men was the inimediatt|
result; and, in the confusion ot the moment, foui couples of my dogs,
which they had been loading, were allov/ed to escape in their couplea
These instantly faced the lion, v/ho, finding that by his bold bearing he
had succeeded in putting his enemies to flight, now became solicitous for
the safety of his little faaiily, with which tlie lioness waS retreating in the
back-ground. Facing about, he followed r.fter them with a haughty and
independent step, growling fiercely at the dogs which trotted alo»!g on
each side of him. Three "troops of elephants havng been discovered

■' *l

and is now lux-
se fallen- by the

: has robed him
ave often heaid
enty yat ds froir,
:s of their forms,
s massive arms,
r noise in drink-
water foi a loiv;
pau.ses for half a

, in a dark night,
d active than the
had young are
inie is thi; lion so
young ones. At
)st intrepid man
ance of this kind
le reports I had

of the Baseleka,
shed suddenly to
) wards us with a |
d imposing that
e, and growling
ipon us, and dis-
among the timid |

ras theirimediate^
;ples of my dogs,^
in their coupler
bold be-^ring hi
ime solicitous for
retreating in the
h a haughty and
trotted alo»!g on
been discovered

(45^

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

a few minutes previous to this, upon which I was marching for the
attack, I, with the most heartfelt reluctance, reserved my fire. On run
ning down the hill side to endeavor to recall my dogs, I observed, for
the first time, the retreating lioness with four cubs. About twenty
minutes afterward two noble elephants repaid my forbearance.

Among Indian Nimrods, a certain class of royal tigers is dignified with
the appellation of "man-eaters." These are tigers which, having once
'tasted human flesh, show a predilection for the same, and such charac
ters are very naturally famed and dreaded among the natives. Elderly
gentlemen of similar tastes and habits are occasionally met with among
the lions in the interior of South Africa, angi the danger of such neigh-
bors may be easily imagined. I account for lions first acquiring this
taste in the following manner: some tribes of the far interior do
not bury their dead, but unceremoniously carry them forth, and leave
them lying exposed in the forest or on the plain, a prey to the lion and
hyaena, or the jackal and vulture; and I can readily imagine that a lion,
having thus once tasted human flesh, would have little hesitation, when
opportunity presented itself, of springing upon and carrying off the
unwary traveler or native inhabiting his country.

The Man-Eater at Work.

Be this as it may, man-eating occurs; and on my fourth hunting expe-
dition, a horrible tragedy was acted one dark night in my little lonely
camp by one of these formidable characters, which deprived me, in the far
wilderness, of my most valuable servant. In winding up these observations
on the lion, I may remark that lion-hunting, under any circumstances, is
decidedly a dangerous pursuit. It may nevertheless be followed, to a
certain extent, with comparative safety by those who have naturally a
turn for that sort of thing. A recklessness of death, perfect coolness
and self-possession, an acquaintance with the disposition and manners
of lions, and a tolerable knowledge of the use of the rifle, are indis-
pensable to him who would shine in the overpoweringly exciting
pastime of hunting this justly celebrated king of beasts.

Livingstone himself narrates minutely his dreadful encounter with a
lion. He always regarded it as one of his most thrilling experiences in
Africa, and he had occasion to remember it from the fact that he was
so severely injured. The wonder is that when the ferocious beast had
the great explorer in his power and might easily have taken his life, he
should have been prevented from doing it. A few moments more and
the life of one of the world's greatest heroes would have been terminated

CHAPTER III.

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

Livingr tone's Life Among the Backwains— An Intelligent Chief— Trying to Whip
the Heathen into Conversion— Appearance of the Backwains— Peculiar Head-
Dress- Export Thie\es— A Bewitched Kettle— A Horrible Deed— An African
Congress -Thrilling War Songs— Carrying on War for Glory— Livingstone'?
Interest in tliis Tribe -Singular Superstitions— Medicine Men and Rain Doctors-
Barbarous Practices— Severe Training for Boys— The Girls' Ordeal— Romantic
Dances— Construction of Hous-s— Curious Burial Customs— Funeral Dances
Among the Latookas— An Active Chief— The Rich No Better Than the Poor-
Odd Decorations— Graceful Movements.

'OR years Livingtone labored among the Backwains, at Chonuane,
whose chief was a man of great intelUgence, but who had some
amusing ideas and ways. When he embraced Christianity he
ited to make his subjects converts by thrashing them with whips of
Inoceios hide. Livhigstone could not approve of this new mode of
wersion, and the chief was persuaded to pursue a milder course.
[ As Livingstone labored for years among the Backwains, or Bechuanas,
[full account of the manners, customs, and singular character of this

)e will be of interest to the reader.
I In appjarance they are a fine race of men, in some respects similar to
Kaffirs, with whom they have many customs in common. Their
re.'^s is not very remarkable, except that they are perhaps the best dress-
j-s of skins that are to be found in Africa, the pliancy of the skin and
ke neatness of the sewing being unrivalled. They are good workers in
[etal, and supply many of the surrounding tribes both with ornaments
id weapons.

As to dress, the Bechuanas, as a rule, use more covering than many of

|e surrounding tribes. The women esp.'cially wear several aprons.

le first is made of thongs, like those of the Kaffirs, and over that ir

inerally one of skin. As she can afford it she adds others, but alway£

>ntrive3 to have the outside apron decorated with beads or other adorn-

:nts.

iThis series of aprons, however, is all that a Bechuana woman considers
!»cessary in the way of dress, the kaross, or outside garment, being
iopted merely as a defence against the weather, and not from any idea
It covering to the body is needed for the purpose of delicacy. In

(47)

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

figure they are not so prepossessing as many of the surrounding tribes,
being usually short, stout, and clumsy, which latter defect is rendered
still more conspicuous by the quantities of beads which they hang in heavy
coils around their waists and necks, and the multitude of metal rings with
which they load thcirarms and ankles. They even load their hair as much
as possible, drawing it out into a serier, of little spokes, and dressing them
so copiously with grease and sibilo, that at a few yards they look as if theii
heads were covered with a cap composed of metallic prongs, and at a
greater distance as if they were wearing bands of polished steel on their
heads.

They consider a plentiful smearing of grease and red ochre to be the
very acme of a fashionable toilet, and think that washing the body is a

disgusting custom. Women arc
the smokers of the tribe, the men
preferring snuff, and rather despis-
ing the pipe as a woman's imple-
ment.

The Bechuanas can hardly be
selected as examples of good moral
character. No one who knows
them can believe a word they say,
and they will steal everything that
they can carry. They are singu-
larly accomplished thieves, and the
habit of stealing is so ingrained in
their nature, that if a man is de-
tected in the very act he feels not
the least shame, but rather takes
blame to himself for being so inexpert as to be found out. Sipall
articles they steal in the most ingenious manner. Should it be hang-
ing up, they contrive to handle it carelessly and let it fall on the
ground, and then they begin active operations. Standing near the covetec
article, and trying to look as if they were not aware of its existence, they
quietly scrape a hole in the sand with one of their feet, push the object
of their desire into the hole, cover it up again with sand, and smooth the
surface so as to leav, no trace that the ground has been disturbed.

They steal each other's goods, whenever they can find an opportunity,
but they are only too glad to find an opportunity of exercising their art
on a white man, whose property is sure to be worth stealing. A travel-
ler in their country has therefore a hard life, for he knows that there is

PECULIAR HEAD-DRESS.

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

•

not a single article in his possession which will not vanish if he leaves it

unguarded f >r a few minutes. Indeed, as Mr. Baines well observes, there

is not an honest nerve or fibre in a Bechuana's body; from the root of

his tongue to the tips of his toes, every muscle is thoroughly trained in

the art of thieving. If they merely sit near an article of moderate size,

when they move off it moves with them, in a manner that no wearer ol

trousers can conceive. Even Mr. Moffatt, who had a singular capacity

for discovering good qualities which had lain latent and unsuspected,

writes in very forcible terms respecting the uttqr dishonesty of the

Bechuanas.

Stealing: Cattle by Xisrht.

Some mornings, says Mr. Moffatt, we had to record thefts committed
in the course of twenty-four hours, in our houses, our smith-shop, our
garden, and among our cattle in the field. These they have more than
|once driven into a bog or mire, at a late hour informing us of the acci-
dent, as they termed it ; and, as it was then too dark to render assistance,
'jpne or more would fall a prey to the hyaenas or hungry natives. One
Height they entered our cattle-fold, killed one of our best draught oxen,

rd carried the whole away, except one shoulder. We were compelled
use much meat, from the great scarcity of grain and vegetables ; our
eep we had to purchase at a distance, and very thankful might we be
out of twenty we secured the largest half for ourselves. They would
(break their legs, cut off their tails, and more frequently carry off the
^hole carcass.

Tools, such as saws, axes, and adzes, were losses severely felt, as we
fcould not at that time replace them, when there was no intercourse what-
/er with the colony. Some of our tools and utensils which they stole,
b finding the metal not what they expected, they would bring back
;aten into all shapes, and offer them in exchange for some other article
^f value. Knives were always eagerly coveted ; our metal spoons they
lelted ; and when we were supplied with plated iron ones, which they
)und not so pliable, they supposed them bewitched. Very often, when
[mployed working at a distance from the house, if there was no one in
^hom he could confide, the missionary would be compelled to carry
'lem all to the place where he went to seek a draught of water, well know-
Ig that if they were left they would take wings before he could return.

An Iron Kettle Bewitched.
The following ludicrous circumstance once happened, and was related
th- writer^by r: native in graphic style. Two men had succeeded in
baling an iron poL Having just taken it from the fire, it was rather

" b

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

warm for handing conveniently over a fence, and by doing so it fell on a
stone, and was cracked. '• It is iron," said they, and off they went with
their booty, resolving to make the best of it ; that is, if it would not
serve foi cooking, they would transform it into knives and spears. After
some time had elapsed, and the hue and cry about the missing pot had
nearly died away, it was brought forth to a native smith, who had laid
in a stock of charcoal for the occasion. The pot was further, broken to
make it more convenient to lay hold of with the tongs, which are gener-
ally made of the bark of a tree. The native Vulcan, unacquainted with
cast iron, having with his small bellows, one in each hand, produced a
good heat, drew a piece from the fire. To his utter amazement, it flew
into pieces at the first stroke of his little hammer. Another and another
piece was brought under the action of the fire, and then under the
hammer, with no better success. Both the thief and the smith, gazing
with eyes and mouth dilated on the fragments of iron scattered round
the stone anvil, declared their belief that the pot was bewitched, and
concluded pot-stealing to be a bad speculation. i .tr

■ Expert Thieves.

To the thieving propensities of these people there was no end. They
would peep into the rude hut that was used for a church, in order to see
who was preaching, and would then go off to the preacher's house, and
rob it at their ease. When the missionaries, at the expense of great
labor, made a series of irrigating canals, for the purpose of watering their
gardens, the women would slyly cut the banks of the channels, and divert
the water. They even broke down the dam which led the water from
the river, merely for the sake of depriving somebody of something ; and
when, in spite of all their drawbacks, some vegetables had been grown. |
the crops were stolen, even though a constant watch was kept over them.

These accomplished thieves have even been known to .steal meat out
of the pot in which it was being boiled, having also the insolence to
substitute a stone for the pilfered meat. One traveller found that all his
followers were so continually robbed by the Bechuanas, that at last he
ceased from endeavoring to discover the thieves, and threatened instead
to punish any man who allowed an article to be stolen from him. They
do not even spare their own chief, and would rob him with as little
compunction as it he were a foreigner.

There was need among such people of more than one Livingstone to
teach them the virtue of honesty.

Dr. Lichtenstcin, who certainly had a better opinion of the Bechuanas
than ^' y deserved, was once cheated by them in a very ingenious

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

Livingstone to

manner. He had purchased three ivory rings with some tobacco, but
^vhen he left the place he found that the same ring had been sold to him
three successive times, the natives behind him having picked his pockets
with the dexterity of a London thief, and then passed the ring to their
companions to be again offered for sale.

Altogether, the character of the Bechuanas does not seem to be an
agreeable one, and even the missionaries who have gone among them
and naturally are inclined to look on the best side of their wild flocks
have very little to say in their favor, and plenty to say against them.
They seem to be as heartless toward the infirm and aged as the Nama-
qnas, and if one of their numbf.r is ill or wounded, so that he cannot
iwait upon himself, he is carried outside the camp, and there left until he
ecovers or dies. A small and frail hut is built for him, a portion of food
given to him daily, and in the evening a fire is made, and fuel placed
^ear so that it may be kept up. On one occasion the son of a chief was
ounded by a buffalo, and, according to ancient custom, was taken out
the camp. The fire happened to go out, and in consequence a lion
me and carried off the wounded man in the night. It was once thought
t this cruel custom arose from the fear of infection, but this is evi-
ntly not the case, as persons afflicted with infectious diseases are not
psturbed as long as they can help themselves. Superstition may proh-
ibit be the true reason for it.

A Horrible Deed.

They have but little regard for human life, especially that of a woman,

nd a husband may kill his wife if he likes, without any particular notice

ing taken of it. One traveller mentions that a husband became angry

ith his wife about some trifling matter, seized his assagai, and killed her

the spot. The body was dragged out by the heels, and thrown into

e bush to be devoured by the hyasnas, and there was an end of the

hole business. The traveller, being horrified by such an action, laid an

formation before the chief, and vvas only laughed at for his pains, the

ief thinking that for anyone to be shocked at so ordinary an occur-

nee was a very good joke.

Still, the Bechuana has his redeeming qualities. They are not quar

Isome, and Burchell remarks that, during all the time which he spent

ong them, he never saw two men openly quarrelling, nor any public

ach of decorum. They are persevering and industrious in the arts of

ace, and, as has been seen, learn to work in iron and to carve wood

h a skill that can only be attained by long and careful practice. They

more attached to the soil than many of the neighboring tribes, culti-

.iS

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

li-#

vating it carefully, and in this art far s'Trpassing the Kaffirs. Tl' Mr
houses, too, are of elaborate construction, and built with a care and S'. *
lidity which show that the inhabitants are not nomads, but residents on
one spot. ■ ■ ' ,■ ''

The government of the Bechuanas is primarily monarchical, but not
, entirely despotic. The king has his own way in most matters, but his
chiefs can always exercise a check upon him by summoning a parliament
or " Picho," as it is called. The Picho affords a truly wild and pictur
esque spectacle. The warriors, in their full panoply of war, seat them
selves in a circle, in the midst of which is the chair of the king. The
various speakers take their turns at addressing the assembly, and speak
with the greatest freedom, not even sparing the king himself, but pub-
licly arraigning him for any shortcomings, real or fancied, and sometimes
gaining their point. As to the king himself, he generally opens the par-
liament with a few sentences, and then remains silent until all the speeches
liave been delivered. He then answers those that have been made against
himself, and becomes greatly excited, leaping about the ring, brandishing
his spear and shield, and lashing himself into an almost frantic state.
This is the usual procedure among savages, and the more excited a man
becomes, the better he is supposed to speak afterward.

All African Coii{presi?. v

An extract from Mr. Moffatt's account of a Picho will give a good idea
of the proceedings:. Although the whole exhibits a very grotesque scene,
bu.-?iness is carried on with the most perfect order. There is but little
cheering, and still less hissing, while every speaker fearlessly states his
own sentiments. The audience is seated on the ground,each man having
before him his war-club. Many were adorned with tiger-skins and tails,
and had plumes of feathers waving on their heads. In the centre a suffi-
cient space was left for the privileged — those who had killed an enemj-
in battle — to dance and sing, in which they exhibited the most violent
and fantastic gestures conceivable, which drew forth from the spectators
the most clamorous applause.

When they retire to their seats, the speaker commences by command
ng silence. " Be silent, ye Batlapis, be silent, ye Barolongs," addressing
ftach tribe distinctly, not excepting the white people, if any happen to be
present, and to which each responds with a groan. He then takes from
his shield a .spear, and points it in the direction in which the enemy is
advancing, imprecating a curse upon them, and thus declari'ig war by rc-
))oatcdly thrusting his spear in that direction, as if plunging i: into an
crummy. This receives a loud whistling sound of applau.se. He next

r#»

.JUmmi«.^

Kaffirs. Tl' ir
I a care and S' *
»ut residents on

rchical, but not
matters, but his
[g a parliament
vild and pictur
war, seat them
:he king. The
nbly, and speak
imself, but pub-
, and sometimes
' opens the par-
all the speeches
:n made against
ng, brandishing
ost frantic state.
; excited a man

ive a good idea
rotesque scene,
ere is but little
essly states his
,ch man having
ikins and tails,

centre a suffi

|llcd an enemj-

le most violent

the sj>ectator.s

by command
js," addressing

happen to be
Ml takes from

the enemy i>
[i".g war by iv-
[^ing i! into an
ISC. He next

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(53)

.'■; ill

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

directs his spear toward the Bushman country, south and southwest,
rimprecating also a curse on those " ox-eaters," as they are called.

The king, on this, as on all similar occasions, introduced the business
of the day by "Ye sons of Molchabanque " — viewing all the influential
men present as the friends or allies of his kingdom, which rose to more
than its foi mer eminence under the reign of that monarch, his father—
" the Mantatees are a strong and victorious people ; they have over-
ivhelmed many nations, and they are approaching to destroy us. We
have been apprised of their manners, their deeds, their weapons, and their
intentions! We cannot stand against the Mantatees; we must now
concert, conclude, and be determined to stand.

ThrUlingr War-Sougrs*

" The case is a great one. I now wait to hear what the general
opinion is. Let every one speak his mind, and then I shall speak
again." Mothibi manoeuvred his spear as at the commencement, and
then pointing it toward heaven, the audience shouted *' Pula " (rain), on
which he sat down amidst a din of applause. Between each speaker a
part or verse of a war-song is sung, the same antics are then performed,
and again universal silence is commanded.

When several speakers had delivered their sentiments, chiefly exhort-
ing to unanimity and courage, Mothibi resumed his central position, and
after the usual gesticulations, commanded silence. Having noticed some
remarks of the preceding speakers, he added : " It is evident that the best
plan is to proceed against the enemy, that they come no nearer. Let not
our towns be the seat of war ; let not our houses be the scenes of blood-
shed and destruction. No! let the blood of the enemy be spilt at a dis-
tance from our wives and children." Turning to the aged chief, he said :
" I hear you. my father; I understand you, my father; your words are
true, they are good for the ear ; it is good that we be instructed by the
Makooas ; I wish those evil who will not obey ; I wish that they may be
broken into pieces."

Then addressing the warriors, "There are many of you who dc
iiot deserve to cat out of a bowl, but only out of a broken pot; think
)n what has been said, and obey without murmuring. I command you,
ye chiefs of the Batiapis, Batlares, Bamairis, Barolongs, and Bakotus, that
you acquaint all your tribes of tiie proceedings of this day ; let none
bo ignorant; I say again, ye warriors, prepare for the battle; let your
shields be strong, your quivers full of arrows, and your battle-axes
as sharp as Lunger. Be silent, ye kidney-caters " (addressing the old
men), " ye are of no further use- but to hang about for kidneys when

d southwest,
ailed.

the business
he influential
rose to more
I, his father —
;y have over-
troy us. We
>ons, and their
ve must now

t the general
; shall speak
^ncement, and
jla " (rain), on
ach speaker a
en performed,

liefly exhort-
position, and
noticed some
that the best

brer. Let not
nes of blood-
spilt at a dis-
:hief, he said :
vc words are
ructed by the
they may be

'■if
f

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. ••

an ox is slaughtered. If your oxen are taken, where will you get any
more?" This was the chief's spirited address to the men.

Eloquent Appeal to Women.

Turning to the women he said, " Prevent not the warrior from going
out to battle by your cunning insinuations. No, rouse the warrior to
Dlory, and he will return with honorable scars, fresh marks of valor will
cover his thighs, and we shall then renew the war-song and dance, and
relate the story of our conquest." At the conclusion of this speech the
ail was rent with acclamations, the whole assembly occasionally joining
in the dance; the women frequently taking the weapons from the hands
of the men and brandishing them in the most violent manner, people of all
ages using the most extravagant and frantic gestures for nearly two hours.

In explanation of the strange word, " kidney-eaters," the reader must
be made aware that kidneys are eaten only by the old of both sexes.
Young people will not touch them on any account, from the superstitious
idea that they can have no children if they do so. The word of applause,
"pula," or rain, is used metaphorically to signify that the words of the
speaker are to the hearers like rain, on a thirsty soil.

In the last few lines of the king's speech, mention is made of the
" honorable scars upon the thighs." He is here alluding to a curious
practice among the Bechuanas. After a battle, those who have killed an
enemy assemble by night, and, after exhibiting the trophies of their
prowess, each goes to the prophet or priest, who takes a sharp assagai
and makes a long cut from the hip to the knee. One of these cuts is
made for each enemy that has been slain, and some distinguished wai-
riors have their legs absolutely striped with scars.

The Order of the Scar.

As the wound is a tolerably deep one, and as ashes are plentifully rubbed
into it, the scar remains for life, and is more conspicuous than it would be
in an American, leaving a white track upon the dark skin. In spite of
the severity of the wound, all of the successful warriors join in a dance,
which is kept up all night, and only terminates at sunrise. No one is
allowed to make the cut for himself, and anyone who did so would at
once be detected by the jealous eyes of his companions. Moreover irv
order to substantiate his claim, each warrior is obliged to produce hh
trophy — a small piece of flesh with the skin attached, cut frgm the body
of his foe.

When the ceremony of investiture with the Order of the Scar takes
place, a large fire is made, inside which no one may pass except the priest
and those who can show a trophy. On the outside of the fence are con-

m\\

I. K.'

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

gregated the women and all the men who have not been fortunate enough
to distinguish themselves. One by one the warriors advance to the
priest, show the trophy, have it approved, and then take their place round
the fire. Each man then lays the trophy on the glowing coals, and, when it
is thoroughly roasted, eats it. This custom arises from a notion that the
courage of the slain warrior then passes into the body cf the man who
killed him, and aids also in making him invulnerable. The Bechuanas
do not like this custom, but, on the contrary, view it v/ith nearly as much
abhorrence as Europeans can do, only yielding to it from a desire not tc
controvert the ancient custom of their nation.

Butchery for Glory.

It may well be imagined that this ceremony incites the warriors, both
old and young, to distinguish themselves in battle, iii order that they may
have the right of entering the sacred fence, and be publicly invested with
the honorable scar of valor. On one such occasion, a man who was well
known for his courage could not succeed in killing any of the encm)-,
because their numb-rs were so comparatively small that all had been
killed before he could reach them. At night he was almost beside him-
self with anger and mortification, and positively wept with rage at bein^^
excluded from the sacred enclosure. At last he sprang away from the
place, ran at full speed to his house, killed one of his own .servants, ami
returned to the spot, bringing with him the requisite passport of admit-
tance. In this act he was held to be perfectly justified, because the slain
man was a captive taken in war, and therefore, according to Bechuanan
ideas, his life belonged to his master, and could be taken whenever it
might be more useful to him than the living slave.

In war, the Bechuanas are but cruel enemies, killing the wounded with-
out mercy, and even butchering the inoffensive women and children. The
desire to possess the coveted trophy of success is probably the cause uf
their ruthlessness. In some divisions of the Bechuana tribes, such as the
Bachapins, the successful warriors do not eat the trophy, but dry it and
hang it round their necks, eating instead a portion of the liver of the slain
man. In all cases, However, it seems that some part of the enemy has tc
be eaten.

The weapons used in war are not at all like those which are emplo) cd
by the Kaffirs. The Bechuanan shield is much smaller than that of the
Kaffirs. The assagai is not intended to be used as a missile, but as a
weapon for hand-to-hand combat. Indeed, the amount of labor which is
bestowed upon it renders it too valuable to be flung at an enemy, who
might avoid the blow, and then seize the spear and keep it.

■ ^-"Ji

i '■*! ! )■ ■ . .•.^< i r-.;v^

►rtunate enough
advance to the
leir place round
lis, and, when it
notion that the
)f the man who
The Bechuanas
nearly as much
a desire not tc

e warriors, both
rr that they may
ly invested with
in who was well
y of the enemy,
at all had been
lost beside hini-
h rage at beinj,'
; away from the
•n servants, and
jsport of admit-
^cause the slain
-r to Bechuanan
cen whenever it

: wounded with-
d children. The
bly the cause of
ibcs, such as the
r, but dry it and
liver of the slain
le enemy has tc

;h arc emplo)'ea
;han that of the
missile, but as a
f labor which is
an enemy, who
it.

->.•

WARRIOR WITH SPEARS AND SHIELD.

(J5T)

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The Bechuanas havi one weapon which is very effective at close quar-
ters. This is the battle-axe. Various as are the shapes of the heads,
they aue all made on one principle, and, in fact, an a.xe is nothing more
than an enlarged spearhead fixed transversely on the handle. The ordi-
nary battle-axes ha\'e their heads fastened to wooden handles, but the
best ,'xamples have the handles made of rhinoceros horn.

Dr. Livingstone was greatly interested in these barbarous people. He
studied their customs, their domestic life, their warfare, their triditions,
their very thoughts. By a long residence among them he became thor-
oughly acquainted with everything of interest pertaining to them. The
wild life of Africa did not dnunt our rer'owned explorer; he had gone to
the ark Continent kp :)wii: he r)- 'twas. To Livingstoi;e belongs
the credit of carrying the Hgl t o( k;; ^wledge and religion to this remark-
able people.

Strange Sup. i ,:Hions.

Of religion the Bechuanans knew nothing, though they have plenty of
superstition, and are as utter .slaves to their witch doctors as can well be
conceived. The life of one of these personages is full of danger. He
practises his ar«-s with the full knowledge that if he should fail, death is
nearly certain to be the result. Indeed, it is very seldom that a witch
doctor, especially if ho should happen to be also a rain-maker, dies a
natural deatl', he generally falling a victim to the clubs of his quondam
followers.

These men evidently practice the art of conjuring, as we understand
the word, and they can perform their tricks with great dexterity. One
of thes'' men exhibited several- of his performances to Mr. Baines, the
well-known traveller, and displayed no small ingenuity in the magic art.
Hi:: first trick was to empty, or to appear to empty, a skin bag and an
old hat, and then to shake the bag over the hat, when a piece of meat or
hide fell from the former into the latter. Another performance .was to
tie up a bead necklace in a wisp of grass, and hand it to one of the
white spectators to burn. Hj then passed the bag to the most incredu-
lous of the spectators, allowed him to feel it and prove that it was empty,
,vhilc the hat was being examined by Mr. Baines and a friend. Calling
out to the holder of the bag, he pretended to throw something through
the air, and, when the bag was duly shaken, out fell the beads into
the hat.

This was really a clever trick, and, though any reader who has some
practical acquaintance with the art of legerdemain can see how it was
done, it is not a little surprising to sec such dexterity possessed by a sav-

,,{

§'

,t close quar-
of the head.s,
lothing more
?. The ordi-
idles, but the

people. He
leir traditions,
became thor-
o them. The
e had gone to
jstor.e belongs
o this remark-

have plenty of
as can well be
f danger. He
d fail, death is
\\ that a vvitcii
maker, dies a
his quondam

ive understand
xterity. One
r. Baines, the
he magic art.
n bag and an
cce of meat or
nance .was to
to one of the
most incredu-
it was empty,
icnd. Calling
thing through
he beads into

^vho has some
;e how it was
:ssed by a sav-

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

' i:

age. The success of this trick was the more remarkable because the
holder of the bag had rather unfairly tried to balk the performer.

The Coiv{urer Exposed.

On a subsequent occasion, however, the conjurer attempted the same
trick, vaiying it by requesting the beads should be broken instead of
burned. The holder of the beads took the precaution of marking them
with ink before breaking them, and in consequence all the drumming of
the conjurer could not reproduce them until after dark, when another
string of beads, precisely similar in appearance, was found under the
wagon. Being pressed on the subject, the conjurer admitted that they
were not the .same beads, but said that they had been sent supematurally
to replace those which had been broken.

The same operator was tolerably clever at tricks with cord, but had to
confess that a nautical education conferred advantages in that respect to
which his supernatural powers were obliged to yield. He once invited
Mr. Baines to see him exhibit his skill in the evening. A circle of girls
and women now surrounded the wizard, and commenced a pleasing but
monotonous chant, clapping their hands in unison, while he, seated alter-
nately on a carved stool and on a slender piece of reed covered with a
skin to prevent its hurting him, kept time for the hand-clapping, and
seemed trying to work himself up to the required state of inspiration, liil
his whole flesh quivered like that of a person in the ague.

A few preparatory anointings of the joints of all his limbs, his breast
and forehead, as well as those of his choristers, followed ; shrill whistlings
were interchanged with spasmodic gestures, and now it was found that the
exhibition of the evening \.as a bona fide medical operation on the pcrsi n
of a man who lay covered with skins outside of the circle. The posteriir
portion of the thigh was chosen for scarification, but as the fire gave \\y> \
light in that direction, and the doctor and the relatives liked no one tn
touch the patient, no one could ascertain how deep the incisions were madt,
Most probably, from the scars seen of former operations of the kind, they I
were merely deep enough to draw blood.

Ciiriiijr u Sick Man.

The singing and hand-claj^ping now grew more vehement, the doctc
threw himself upon the patient, perhaps sucked the wound, at all event |
pretended to inhale the di.scase. Strong convulsions seized him, and, a*
he was a man of powerful frame, it required no little strengtn to hold liin;
At length, with upturned eyes and face expressive of suffocation, he seizedj
his knife, and, thrusting it into his mouth, took out a large piece appar j
ently of hide and flesh, which his admiring audience supposed him toj

LIVINGSTONE ANfONG SAVAGES.

ble because the
rformer.

mpted the same
okcn instead of
f marking them
lie drumming of
k, when another
ound under the
nitted that they
nt supematurally

cord, but had to
n that respect to
He once invited
A circle of girls
:d a pleasing but
i he, seated altcr-
I covered with a
md-clapping, and
of inspiration, liil
ue.

limbs, his breast |
shrill whistlings |
as found that the
ion on the pcrs* ii '^
. The posterior
the fire gave lu
2S liked no one tc
;isions were niadi,
of the kind, they I

ement, the doctc
und, at all even;
eized him, ancl,a>|
;ngtn to hold hin:
focation, he seized
arge piece appar
supposed him toj

have previously drawn from the body of the patient, thus removing the
cause of the disease.

Sometimes the Bechuana doctor uses a sort of dice, if such a term
may be used when speaking of objects totally unlike the dice which are
used in this country. In form they are pyramidal, and are cut from the
cloven hoof of a small antelope. These articles do not look very valuable,
but they are held in the highest estimation, inasmuch as very few know
.how to prepare them, and they are handed down from father to son
through successive generations. The older they are, the more powerful
[are they supposed to be, and a man who is fortunate enough to possess
[them can scarcely be induced to part with them.

These magic dice are used when the proprietor wishes to know the
Iresult of some undertaking. He smooths a piece of ground with his
land, holds the dice between his fingers, moves his hands up and down
jveral times, and tUcn allows them to fall. He then scans them care-
feiUy, and judges from their position what they fortell. The characters
fr figures described on the surface have evidently some meaning, but
rhat their signification was the former possessor either did not know, or
lid not choose to communicate.

A Cliarm for the Neck.
The children, when they first begin to trouble themselves and their
irents by the process of teething, are often furnished with a kind of
imulet. It is made of a large African beetle. A number of them are
dlled, dried, and then strung on leathern thongs, so as to be worn round
the neck. These objects have been mistaken for whistles. The Bechu-
mas have great faith in their powers when used for teething, and think
that they are efficacious in preventing various infantile disorders.

Like the Kaffirs, the Bechuanas make use of certain religious cere-

[monies before they go to war. One of these rites consists of laying a

(charm on the cattle, so that they shall not be seized by the enemy. The

)xen are brought singly to the priest, if we may so call him, who is

furnished with a pot of black paint, and a jackal's tail by way of a brush.

^ith this primitive brush he makes a certain mark upon the hind leg of

[the animal, while at the same time an assistant, who kneels behind him,

repeats the mark in miniature upon his back or arms. To this ceremony

they attribute great value ; and, as war is almost invariably made for the

ike of cattle, the Bechuanas may well be excused for employing any

rite which they fancy will protect such valued possessions.

Among one branch of the Bechuana tribe, a very remarkable ceremony

observed when the boys seek to be admitted into the rank of mea

t! il

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The details arc kjpt very secret, but a few of the particulars have been
•Jiscovercd. Dr. Livingstone, for example, happened once to witness the
second stage of the ceremonies, which last for a considerable timo.

A number of boys, about fourteen years of age, without a ve-.tigc o/"
clothing, stood in a row, and opposite those was an equal number of men
CttCh having in his hand a long switch cut from a bush belongin;; to the
fjenus Grewia, and called in the native language moretloa Th.e t'vigs n
this bush are very strong, tough, and supple. Both the men and boj
were en ;:a 'Ted in an odd kind of dance, called " koha," which the ncn
evidentl/ enjoyed, and the boys had to look as if they enjoyed it loo.
Fach boy was furnished with a pair of the ordinary hide sandals, which
lie wore on his hands instead of his feet. At stated intervals, the men
put certain questions to the boys, respecting their future life w!ien
admitted into the society of men.

Barbarous Practices. ' ^

For example, the youth is tried in some such way as the following:
' Will you herd the cattle well ? " asks the man.

" I will," answers the boy, at the same time lifting his sandalled hands
(.ver his head. The man then leaps forward, and with his full force
strikes at the boy's head. The blow is received on the uplifted sandals,
but the elasticity of the long switch causes it to curl over the boy's head
with such f irce that a deep gash is made in his back, some twelve or
eighteen inches in length, from which the blood spirts as if it were made
with a knife. Ever afterward, the lesson that he is to guard the cattle
is supposed to be indelibly impressed on the boy's mind.

Then comes another question, " Will you guard the chief well ? "
" I will," replies the boy, and another stroke impresses that lesson on
the boy's mind. And thus they proceed, until the whole series of ques-
tions has been asked and properly answered. The worst part of the
proceeding is, that the boys are obliged, under penalty of rejection, to
continue their dance, to look pleased and happy, and not to wince at the
terrible strokes which cover their bodies with blood, and seam thei;
backs with scars that last throughout their lifetime'. Painful as this ordea'
must be, the reader must not think that it is nearly so formidable to thr
Bechuanas as it would be to Americans. In the first place, the ncrvcu:
system of a white man is far more sensitive than that of South African
natives, *id injuries which would lay him prostrate have but little effect
upon them. Moreover, their skin, from constant exposure to the ele-
ments, is singularly insensible, so that the stripes do not inflict a tenth
part cf the pain that they would if suffered by a white person.

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

ars have been
to witness the
blc timo.
Lit a vc'-.tige of
lumber of men
;longin;j to tl)L
Th.c t'vijjs o
men and boy;
vhich the ncr,
:njoycd it \.oo.
sandals, which
;rvals, the men
ture life w!ien

e following:

Only the older men are allowed to take part in this niode of instruc-
tion of the boys, and if any man should attempt it who is not qualified,
he is unpleasantly reminded of his presumption by receiving on his own
back the stripes which he intended to inflict on the boys, the old men
being in such a case simultaneously judges and executioners. No eleva-
tion ot rank will allow a man to thus transgress with impunity ; and on
oi.^ occasion, Sekomi himself, the chief of the tribe, received a severe

iandalled hands
I his full force
ipliftcd sandals,

the boy's head
iome twelve or
if it were made

uard the cattle

ef well ? "
that lesson on
series of ques-
st part of the
of rejection, to

wince at the
nd scam thei;

1 as thio ordea'
rmidable to thr

c, the ncrvou:
South African
but little efloct
ire to the ele-
inflict a tenth
son.

^ i i

M^^i^^

Tf AINING nOYS FOR HARDSHIPS.

blow on the leg from one of his own people. This kind of ordeal, called
Tie Sechu, is only practise 1 among three tribes, one of which is the Ba-
langwato, of which Sekomi was the chief

It takes place every six or seven years, so that a large number of boys
Ire collected. These are divided into bands, each of which is unrV r the
^mmand of one of the sons of the chief, and each member is supo.sed
^ be a companion of his leader for life. They are taken into the wood*

^<i1

■m

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

by the old men, where they reside for some time, and where, to judge
from their scarred and seamed backs, their residence does not appear to
be of the most agreeable description. When they have passed through
the different stages of the boguera, each band becomes a regiment or
" mopato," and goes by its own name.

According to Dr. Livingstone, they recognize a sort of equality and
partial communion afterward, and address each other by the name of
Molekane, or comrade. In cases of offence against their rules, as eating
alone when any of their comrades are within call, or in cases of derelic-
tion oi duty, they may strike one another, or any member of a younger
mopato, but never one of an older band; and, when three or four com-
panies have been made, the oldest no longer takes the field in time of
war, but remains as a guard over the women and children. When a
fugitive comes to a tribe, he is directed to the mopato analogous to that
to which in his own tribe he belongs, and does duty as a r^ember.

The girls have to pass an ordeal of a somewhat similar character be-
fore they are admitted among the women, and can hope to attain the
summit of an African girl's hopes, namely, to be married. If possible,
the details of the ceremony are kept even more strictly secret than is the
case with the boys, but a part of it necessarily takes place in public, and
is therefore well known.

How Africau Girls are Toughened.

The girls are commanded by an old and experienced woman, always a
stern and determined personage, who carries them off into the woods,
and there instructs them in all the many arts which they will have to
practise when married. Clad in a strange costume, composed of ropes
of melon-seeds and bits of quill, the ropes being passed over both
shoulders and across their bodies in a figure-of-eight position, they are
drilled into walking with large pots of water on their heads. Wells arc
purposely chosen which are at a considerable di'icance, in order to inure
the girls to fatigue, and the monitress always chooses the most inclement
days for sending them to the greatest distance. They have to carry
heavy loads of wood, to handle agricultural tools, to build houses, and,
in fact, to practise before marriage those tasks which are sure to fall tc
their lot afterward.

Capability of enduring pain Is also insisted upon, and the monitresf
tests their powers by scorching their arms with burning charcoal. Of
course, all these severe labors require that the hands should be hard and
horny, and accordingly the last test which the girls have to endure ii
holding in the hand for a certain time a piece <df hot iron.

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

Rough and rude as this school of instruction may be, its purport is
[judicious enough ; inasmuch as when the girls are married, and enter
[upon their new duties, they do so with a full and practical knowledge of
them, and so escape the punishment which they would assuredly receive
if they were to fail in their tasks. The name of the ceremony is called
Uogale." During the time that it lasts, the girls enjoy several privi-
ges, one of which is highly prized. If a boy who has not passed
[hrough his ordeal should come in their way, he is at once pounced upon
id held down by seme, while others bring a supply of thorn-branches,
^nd beat him severely with this unpleasant rod. Should they be in suffi-
cient numbers, they are not very particular whether the trespasser be
protected by the boguera or not ; and instances have been known when
ley have captured adult men, and disciplined them so severely that they
)rc the scars ever afterward.

Uudeanly Mode of Eatingr*

i^In their feeding they are not particularly cleanly, turning meat about

the fire with their fingers, and then rubbing their hands on their

lies, for the sake of the fat which adheres to them. Boiling, however,

the usual mode of cooking and when eating it they place a lump of

bat in the mouth, seize it with the teeth, hold it in the left hand so as

stretch it as far as possible, and then with a neat upward stroke of a

Hfiife or spear-head, cut off the required morsel. This odd mode of eat-

Jg meat may be found among the Abyssinians and the Esquimaux, and

each case it is a marvel how the men avoid cutting off their noses.

[The following is a description of one of the milk bags: It is made

>m the skin of some large animal, such as an ox or a zebra, and is

ther more than two feet in length and one in width. It is formed from

tough piece of hide, which is cut to the proper shape and then turned

^er and sewed, the seams being particularly firm and strong. The hide

the quagga is said to be the best, as it gives to the milk a peculiar

Ivor, which is admired by the natives.

[The skin is taken from the back of the animal, that being the stronges •

It is first stretched on the ground with woodcnpegs, and the hair

iped off with an adze. It is then cut to the proper shape, and

iked in water until soft enough to be worked. Even with care,

tse bags are rather perishable articles; and when used for water,

tY do not last so long as when they are employed for milk.

jrather large opening is left at the top, and a small one at the bottom,

* of which are closed by conical plugs. Through the upper orifice

-■■"- is poured into the bag in a fresh state, and removed wheu

milk

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

coagulated; and through the lower aperture the whey is drawn off as

v^anted. As is the case with the Kaffir milk baskets, the Bechuana milk

bags are never cleaned, a small amount of sour milk being always left in

them, so as to aid in coagulating the milk, which the natives never drink

in a fresh state

Skillftil Carving.

' When traveling, the Bechuanas hang their milk bags on the backs of
oxen ; and it sometimes happens that the jolting of the oxen, and con
•sequent shaking of the bag, causes the milk to be partially churned, so
that small pieces of butter are found floating in it. The butter is very
highly valued ; but it is not eaten, being reserved for the more important
office of greasing the hair or skin.

The spoons which the Bechuanas use are often carved in the most
elaborate manner. In general shape they resemble those used by the
Kaffirs — who, by the way, sometimes purchase better articles from the
Bechuanas — but the under surface of the bowl is entirely covered with
designs, which are always effective, and in many cases are absolutely
artistic from the boldness and simplicity of the designs. Livingstone had
some spoons, in all of which the surface had first been charred and pol-
ished, and then the pattern cut rather deeply, so as to leave yellowish-
white lines in bold contrast with the jetty black of the uncut portion.
Sometimes it happens that, when they are traveling, and have no spoons
with them, the Bechuanas rapidly scoop up their broth in the right hand,
throw it into the palm of the left, and then fling it into the mouth,
taking care to lick the hands clean after the operation.

Musie and Dancing^*

Music is practised by the Bechuana tribes, who do not use the goura, ,
but merely employ a kind of reed pipe. The tunes that ar« played upon j
this instrument are of a severely simple character, being limited tea
single note, repeated as often as ♦he performer chooses to play it. ;\
very good imitation of Bechuanan instrumental music may be obtained
by taking a penny whistle, and blowing it at intervals. In default of a
whistle, a key will do quite as well. Vo»,al music is known better among
the Bechuanas than among most other tribes — or, at all events, U not
so utterly opposed to American ideas of the art. The melody is simple
enough, consisting chiefly of descending and ascending by thirds; and!
they have a sufficient appreciation of harmony to sing in two parts with-
out producing the continuous discords which delight the soul of tliej
Hottentot tribes.

These rcc J pipes, called " lichAka," are of various lengths, and are!

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

blown exactly like Pandean pipes, that is, transv^ersely across the orifice,
which is cut with a slight slope. Each individual has one pipe only, and,
AS above stated, can only play one note. But the Bechuanas have enough
musical ear to tune their pipes to any required note, which they do by
pushing or withdrawing a movable plug which closes the reed at the
lower end.

When a number of men assemble for the purpose of singing and danc-
ing, they tune their pipes beforehand, taking great pains in getting the
I precise note which they want, and being as careful about it as if they be-
[longed to an American orchestra. The general efifect of these pipes,
Iplayed together, and with certain intervals, is by no means inharmonious,
id has been rather happily compared to the sound of sleigh or wagon
ills. The correct methqd of holding the pipe is to place the thumb
igainst the cheek, and the forefinger over the upper lip, while the other
^hree fingers hold the instrument firmly in its place. These little instru-
lents run through a scale of some eleven or twelve notes.

Graceful Movements.
The dances of the Bechuanas are somewhat similar to those of the
imakosa and other Kaffirs ; but they have the peculiarity of using a
ither remarkable headdress when they are in full ceremonial costume,
'his is made from porcupine quills arranged in a bold and artistic man-
ler, so as to form a kind of coronet. None of the stiff and short quills
)f the porcupine are used for this purpose, but only the long and slender
juills which adorn the neck of the animal, and, in consequence of tt eir
freat proportionate length, bend over the back in graceful cuives.
These headdresses are worn by the men, who move themselves about so
to cause the pliant quills to A'ave backward and forward, and so ■ron-
frive to produce a really graceful effect. The headdress is not considered
in essential i)art of the dance, but is used on special occasions.

When (lancing, they arrange themselves in a ring, all looking inward,
>ut without troubling themselves about their number or any particular
Arrangement. The size of the ring depend* entirely upon the nnmber of
Jancers, as they press closely together. Each is at liberty to use any step
Vhich he may think proper to invent, and to blow his reed pipe at any
itervals that may seem most agreeable to him. But each man contrives
move very slowly in a slanting direction, so that the whole ring re-
solves on the same spot, making, on an average, one revolution pei
linute. '

The direction in which it moves seems perfectly indifferent, as at one
Ime it will revolve from right to left, and then, without any apparent rea-

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i li

.son, the motion is reveised. Dancers enter and leave the ring just as
• hey feel inclined, sonic of the ciders only taking part in the dance for a
few minutes, and others dancing for hours in succession, merely retirinf,'
occasionally to rest their wearied limbs. The dancers scarcely speak at
all when engaged in this absorbing atrtusement, though they accompany
Iheir reed whistles with native songs. Round the dancers is an externa'
ring of women and girls, who follow them as they revolve, and keep tin\
to their movements by clapping their hands.

Substitute for Handkerchief.

As is usual in this country, a vast amount of exertion is used in the
dance, and, as a necessary consequence, the dancers are bathed in per-
spiration, and further inconvenienced by the melting of the grease with
which their heads and bodies are thickly covered. A handkerchief would
be the natural resort of an American under such circumstances; but the
native of Southern Africa does not possess such an article, and therefore
is obliged to make use of an implement which seems rather ill adapted
for its purpose. It is made from the bushy tail of jackals, and is prepared
asfoMows: The tails are removed from the animals, and, while they arc-
yet fresh, the skin is stripped from the bones, leaving a hollow tube of
fur-clad skin. Three or four of these tails are thus prepared, and throui^li
them is thrust a stick, generally about four feet in length, .so that the tail
forms a sort of loni: and verv soft brush.

This is used as a handkerchief, not only by the Bechuanas, but by nianv
f if the neighboring tribes, and is thoug'it a necessary part of a Bechuana's
wardrobe. The stick on which they are fi.xed is cut from the very h( ;i:t
of the kameel-dorn acacia, where the wood is peculiarly hard and blacL,
and a very great amount of labor is expended on its manufacture. A
chief will sometimes have a far more valuable implement, which he uses
for the same purpose. Instead of being made of mere jackal tails, iti^
formed from ostrich feathers.

The remarkable excellence of the Bechuanas in the arts of peace shoulii
be noticed. They are not oitly the best fur-dre.ssers and metal-workcr>
but they are pre-em nent among all the tribes of that portion of African
their architecture. Not being a nomad people, and being attached tollk
soil, t'jvy have no idea of contenting them.selves with the mat-covcrtiii
cages ( i th^ Iloitcntots, or with the simple wattle-and-daub huts of tli
Kaffirs, 'i 1 'do not merely build huts, but erect houses, and display i
an ingf Tu'ty hi \hc'\r constructio i that is perfectly astonishing. Whcna
tlic) r.cri'',1 Oieir aclu'tectioiii knowledge, no one knows. Why tk
Kaffu \W!'> arc; ai^o men i)r the soil, should nut have learned from tin:;

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

((9

is used in llic
Dathed in ptr-
he grease with
kerchief would
tances; but Ihc
:, and therefore
her ill adapted
and is prepareil
. while they arc
I hollow tube oi
Lxl.and throut,ni
, hO that the tail

neighbors how to build better houses, no one can tell. The fact remains,
tliat" the Bechuana is simply supreme in arclntecture, and there is no
neighboring tribe that is even worthy to be ranked in the second class.

\aj^

'^W

fi ;

f...'

^/^-

.'■■<^J¥

:^!iS^'

%*"

^/i

CUKIOUS MOUSES BUILT KY WHITE ANTS.

Tlie house of Diii^an, tlic fjrcat Kaffir despot, was exactly like that of

kny of his subjects, only larger, and the supporting posts co^ .ed with

eads. Now a Bechuana of very moderate rank would be ashamed of

WONDERS OF 'HE TROPICS.

such an edifice by way of a residence; and even the poor — if we may use
the word — can build houses for themselves quite as good as that o(
Dingan. Instead of being round topped, as is the case with the Kaffir
huts, the houses of the Bechuanas are conical, and the shape may be
p-oughly deftned by saying that a Bechuana's hut looks something like a
^imge whipping-top with its point upward. It resembles the curious houses
built by that marvellous insect, the white ant, itself one of tlie wonders
of the Tropics.

A man of moderate rank makes his house in the following manner- .
or, rather, orders his wives to build it for him, the women being the only
architects. First, a number of posts are cut from the kameCl-dorn acacia-
tree, their length varying according to the office which they have to fulfil.
Supposing, for example, that the house had to be sixteen or twenty feet
in diameter, some ten or twelve posts are needed, which will be about
nine feet in height when planted in the ground. These are placed in a
circk and firmly fixed at tolerably equal distances. Next comes a smaller
circle of much smaller posts, whicli. when fixed in the ground, measure
from fiiteen to eighteen feet in heiglit, one of them being longer than the
rest, ikjth the circles of posts *re connected with beams which are
fastened to their tops

The next process is to lay a sufficient quantity of rafters on these posts,
so that they all meet at one point, and these are tightly lashed together.
This point is seldom in the exact cen*ro, so that the hut always looks
rather lop sided. A roof macio of reeds is then placed upon the rafters,
. .id the skeleton of the house is complete. The thatch is held in its
place by a number of long and thin twigs, which are bent, and the eiul
thrust into the thatch. The- i twigs are set in parallel rows, and hold the
tbatch firmly together. The slof)e of the roof is rather slight, and is
al\A'ays that of a depressed cone, but it is sufficient to carry off the water
:md keep the interior dry.

Singular Walls tor IIoilscs.
Now come the walls. The post^ which form the outer circle are con
nectcd with a wall sometimes about six feet high, but r-equ«nitly only two
feet or so. But the wall which connects the inner circle is eight or ter
feet in height, and sometimes reaches nearly to the roof of the house.
These walls are generally made of the >' imosa thorns, which are so inge-
niously woven that the garments of those who pass by are in no danger,
while they effectually prevent even the smallest animal fron: creepin.;
through. The inside of the wall is strengthened as well as smoothed hy
a thick coating of clay. The family live in the cential compartment i!

, -"^s^

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

wmg manner- .

being the only
sd-dorn acacia-
ev have to fulfil.
n or twenty feet
:h will be about

are placed in a
conies a smaller
Tound, measure
longer than the
iani.s which are

! on these posts,
.nshed together.
t always looks
pon the rafters,
ch is held in its
It, and the end
s, and hold \\\<:
' slight, and is
■y off the water

the house, while the servants inhabit the other portion, which also serves
as a verandah in which the family can sit in the daytime, and enjoy the
double benefit of fresh air and shade.

Around this house is a tolerably high paling, made in a similar fashion
of posts and thorns, and within this enclosure the cattle are kept, when
their owner is rich enough to build an enclosure for their especial use.
This fence, or wall, as it may properly be called, is always very firmly
built, and sometimes is of very strong construction. It is on an average
six feet high, and is about two feet and a half wide a<- the bottom, and a
foot or less at the top. It is made almost entirely of small twigs and
branches, placed upright, and nearly parallel with each other, but so
firmly interlaced that they form an admirable defence against the assagai,
while near the bottom the wall is so strong as to stop an ordinary bullet.
A few inches from the top the wall is strengthened by a double band
of twigs, one band being outside, and the other in the interior.

Protection A^j^ninst Fire.
The doorways of a Buchuana hut arc rather curiously constructed.
n aperture is made in the wall, larger above than below, so as to suit
he shape of a human being, whose shoulders are wider than his feet.
Th's formation serves two purposes. In the first place it lessens the size
of the aperture, and so diminishes the amount of the c ;a!j jht, and, in the
next place, it forms a better defence against an adversary than if it were
of larger size, and reaching to the ground.

The fireplace is situated outside the hut, though within the fence, the
Bechuanas having a very wholesome dread of fire, and being naturally
anxious that their elaborately built houses should not be burnt down.
Outside the house, but within the enclosure, is the corn-house. This is a
smallrr hut, constructed in much the same manner as the dwelling-house,
and containing the supply of corn. This is kept in jars, one of which is
of })rodigiouy size, and would quite throw into the shade the celebrated
oil jars in which the " Forty Thieves " hid themselves. There is also a
separate house in which the servants sleep.

This corn jar is made of twigs plaited and woven into form, and
strengthened by sticks thrust into the ground, so that it is irremovable,
even if its ht-c diniensions did not answer that purpose. The jar is
plastered both on the outside and the interior with clay, so that it forms
an admirable {protection for the corn. These jars are sometimes six feet
in height and tnree in width, and their shape almost exactly resembles
that of the oil jars of luirope. The best specimens are raised six or seven
inches from the ground, the stakes which form their scaffolding answer-

wondi:rs of hie tropics.

ing the purpose of legs. Every house has one such jar; and in the
abode of wealthy persons there is generally one large jar and a number
of smaller ones, all packed.

Curious Burial CuMtonis.

The burial o{ the dead is conducted after a rather curious manner
The funeral ceremonies actually begin before the sick person is dead
and must have the effect of hastening dissolution. As soon as the rela
tions of the sick man see that his end is near, they throw over him a
mat, or sometimes a skin, and draw it together until the enclosed indi-
vidual is forced into a sitting, or lather a crouching posture, with the
arms bent, the head bowed, and the knees brought into contact with the
chin. In this uncomfortable position the last spark of life soon expires,
and the actual funeral begins.

The relatives dig a grave, generally within the cattle fence, not shaped
as is the case in our own country, but a mere round hole, about three
feet in diameter. The interior of this strangely shaped grave is then
rubbed with a bulbous root. An opening is then made in the fence
surrounding tliu house, and the body is carried through it, still enveloped
in the mat, and with a skin thrown over the head. It is then lowered
b'ito the grave, and great pains are taken to place it exactly facing the
n(Mth, an operation which consumes much time, but which is achieved at
la.st with I. ! arable accuracy.

When they have settled this point to their satisfaction, they bring
fragments of an anthill, which is the best and finest clay that can be pro-
duced, and lay it carefully about the feet of the corp.se, over which it is
pressed by two men w!i ) stand in the grave for that purpose. More and
more clay is handed dow n in wtjoden bowls, and stamped firmly down,
the operators raising the mat in proportion as the earth rises. They take
particular care that not even the smallest pebble shall mix with the earth
that surrounds the body, and, as the clay is quite free from stones, it is
the fittest material for their purjjose.

How Chi«'fs arei Buriod.

As soon as the earth reaches the mouth, a branch of acacia is placed
in the grave, and .some roots of grass laid on the head, so that part of the
grass projects above the level of the ground. The excavated soil is then
scooped up so as to make a small mound, over which is poured several
bowlfuls of water, the spectators meanwhile shouting out, " Pula! Pula!"
as they do when aj)plauding a speaker in parliament. The weapons and
implements of the deceased are then brought to the grave, and presented
to him, but they are not left there, as is the 'case with some tribes. The

; and in the
id a number

lous manner
•son is dead
1 as the rela
' over him a
nclosed indi-
;ure, with the
ntact with the
soon expires,

e, not shaped
2, about three
jrave is then
in the fcnc;
itill enveloped
then lowered
tly facing the
is achieved at

[n, they bring
t can be pro-
r which it is
:, More and
firmly down.
s. Thcv taki;
,vith the earth
1 stones, it is

icui is placed

^at part of the

ihI soil is then

loured severai

Pula! Piria! "

weapons and

|md presented

tribes. Tlic

a
>
a;

(73)

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ceremony ends by the whole party leaving the ground, amid the lamenta-
tions of the women, who keep up a continual wailing cry.

These are the full ceremonials that take place at the death of a chief-—
at all events, a man of some importance, but they vary much according
.o the rank of the individual. Sometimes a rain-maker has forbidden all
sepulchral rites whatever, as interfering with the production of rain, aiKi
during the time of this interdict every corpse is dragged into the bush to
be consumed by the hyienas. Even the very touch of a dead body is for-
bidden, and, under this strange tyranny, a son has been seen to fling a
leathern rope round the leg of his dead mother, drag her body into the bush,
and there leave it, throwing down the rope and abandoning it, because it
had been defiled by the contact of a dead body, and he might happen to
touch the part that had touched the corpse.

Almost every African tribe has burial customs peculiar to itself Some
of the most remarkable of these arc met with among the Latookas :

Funeral ceremonies clitTcr among the Latookas according to the mod<:
of death. If a ni;in is killed in battle, the body is not touched, but is
allowed to remain on the spot where it fell, to be eaten by the hy.xnas
and the vultures. But should a Latooka, whether man, woman or chiltl,
die a natural death, the body is disposed of in a rather singular manner.
Immediately after death, a shallow grave is dug in the enclosure that sur-
rouiuls each house, and within a few feet of the door. It is allowed to re-
main here for several weeks, when decomposition is usually completed
It is then dug up, the boi>es are cleaned and washed, and are then placed
in an earthenware jar, and carried about a quarter of a mile outside the

village.

Horrible Treutmciit of lluinaii Koniaius.

No particular sanctity attaches itself either to the bones or the spot on
which they arc deposited. The earthen jars are broken in course of time
and the bones scattered about, but no t)ne takes any notice of them, in
consequence of this custom the neighborhood of a large town presertsa
most singular and rather dismal aspect, the ground being covered with
bones, skulls, and earthenware jars in various states of preservation ; and,
indeed, the traveler always knows wht'n he is approaching a Latook.
town by coming across a (juantity of neglected human remains.

The Latookas have not the least idea why they treat their dead in tin;,
singular manner, nor why they make so .strange a distinction bi.tweenllic
bodies of warriors who have died the death of the brave and those wlic
have simply died from disease, accident, or decay, Perha[)s there is no
other country wheie the body o( the dead warrior is left to the beastj

LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES.

the lamenta-

li of a chief—
ich according
1 forbidden all
n of rain, and
to the bush to
.d body is for-
cen to fling a
rinto the bush,
T it, because it
ght happen to

o itself. Some
Latookas :
itr to the motk
touched, but IS
by the hyrtnas
^■oman or child,
HfTular manner,
losurethatsur-
s allowed to ro-
ily completed,
are then placed ,,
lile outside the '■^.

or the spot on
course of time \
:c of them. In
I town presents a
covered with
tservation ; and,
thing a Latook |
Imains.

Iieir dead in thib
iion baweentlic
and those who |
laps there is no
Ift to the bcasti

and birds, while those who die natural deaths are so elaborately buried,
exhumed,' and placed in the public cemetery. Why they lo so they do
not seem either to know or to care, and, as far as has been ascertained,
this is one of the many customs which lias survived long after those who
practise it have forgotten its signification.

During the three or four weeks that elapse between the interment and
e.xhumation of the body funeral dances are performed. Great numbers
of both sexes take part in these dances, for which they decorate them-

i r'.:^}

CO.M.MOKO KUNMNG TO THE FIGHT.

selves in a very singular manner. Their hair helmets are supplemented
by great plumes of ostrich feathers, each man wearing as many as
jhe can manage to fasten on his head, and skins of the leopard or
monkey are hung from their shoulders. The chief adornment, how-
jever, is a large iron bell, which is fastened to the small of the back,
land which is sounded by wriggling the body after a very ludicrous
[fashion.

A large crowd got up in this style created an indescribable hubbub

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Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) S73-4S03

•i>'

! i

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

heightened by the blowing of horns and the beating of seven nogaras of
various notes. Every dancer wore an antelope's horn suspended round
the neck, which he blew occasionally in the height of his excitement.
These in-jtruments produced a "sound partaking of the braying of a don
key and the screech of an owl. Crowds of men rushed round and round
brandishing their arms and iron-headed maces, and keeping tolerably in
iine five or six deep, following the leader, who headed them, dancing
backward.

The women kept outside the line, dancing a slow, stupid step, while a
long string of young girls and small children, their heads and necks rub-
bed with red ochre and grease, and prettily ornamented with strings of
beads round their loins, keep a very good line, beating time with their
feet, and jingling the numerous iron rings which adorned their ankles to
keep time to the drums.

One woman attended upon the men, running through the crowd with
a gourdful of wood-ashes, handfuls of which she showered over their
heads, powderi^jg them like millers : the object of the operation no one
could understand. The premih-e daiiscuse was immensely fat ; she had
passed the bloom of youth, but despite her unwieldy state, she kept up
the pace to the last, quite unconscious o\ her general appearance, and ab-
sorbed with the excitement of the dance.

These strange dances form a part of every funeral, and so, when sev-
eral persons have died successively, the funeral dances go on for several
months together. The chief Commoro was »-emarkable for his agility in
the funeral dances, and took his part in every such ceremony, no matter
whether it were tor a wealthy or a poor man, every one who dies being
equally entitled to the funeral dance without any distinction of rank or
wealth.

The bells which are so often mentioned in those tribes inhabiting
Central Africa are mostly made on one principle, though not on precisely
the same pattern. These simple bells evidently derive their origin from
the shells of certain nuts, or other hard fruits, which, when suspended
and a wooden clapper hung within them, can produce a sound of some
resonance.

The next advance is evidently the carving the bell out of some harc^
wood, so as to increase its size and add to the power of its sound.
Next the superior resonance of iron became apparent, and little bells
were made, shaped exactly like the before-mentioned nuts. This point
once obtained, the variety in the shape of the bells is evidently a mere
matter of caprice on the part of the maker.

.^>

CHAPTER IV.
A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

(,i«nngstone's Great Interest in the Makololo Tribe — The Fate of Ancient Nations-
Extraordinary Changes in Southern Africa— Obscure Origin of the Hottentots-
Displaced by the More Powerful Kaffirs— The Great Chief of the Makololo-
Severe Punishment for Cowards— A Royal Young Snob— Fear of the Ferocioua
Lion— Headlong Charge of tlie Buffalo upon Hunters— Livingstone's Story of
His Wagon— A Race in Eating— Frightful Battle with Hippopotami— Frail Bont
Surrounded by Jgly Brutes— Superior Makololo Women — Mode of Building
Houses— Strong Walls and Thatched Roofs— Strange Ideas of a Boatman-
Offenders Flung to Crocodiles — Dividing the Spoils of Hunting— Sports of
African Children— A Queen's Opinion of White People— Better Looking than
she Imagined— A Grotesque and Exciting Dance.

(f^IVINGSTONE also took great interest in another tribe, the famous
"iVr Makololo, some account of which will prove instructive and
entertaining.

In the whole of Africa south of the equator, we find the, great
events of the civilized world repeated on a smaller scale. Civilized history-
speaks of the origin and rise of nations, and the decadence and fall of
empires. During a course of many centuries, d)nasties have arisen and
held their sway for generations, fading away by degrees before the infliux
of mightier races. The kingdoms of Egypt, Assyria, Babylon, Greece,
Rome, Persia, and the like, have lasted from generation after generation,
and some of them still exist, though with diminished powers. The
Pharaohs have passed from the face of the earth, and their metropolis is
a desert; but Athens and Rome still retain some traces of their vanished
glories.

In Southern Africa, however, the changes that take place, though
precisely similar in principle, are on a much smaller scale, both of mag-
nitude and duration, and a traveller who passes a few years in the
country may see four or five changes of dynasty in that brief period
VVithin the space of an ordinary life-time, for example, the fiery genius
of Tchaka gathered a number of scattered tribes into a nation, and created
a dynasty, which, when deprived of its leading spirit, fell into decline,
and has yearly tended to return to the original elements of which it was
composed.

Then the Hottentots have come from some unknown country, and

(77)

t»!

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

dispossessed the aborigines of the Cape so completely that no one knows
what those aborigines were. In the case of islands, such as the Poly-
nesian group, or even the vast island of Australia, we know what the
aborigines must have been ; but we have no such knowledge with regard
to Southern Africa, and in consequence the extent of our knowledge is,
that the aborigines, whoever they might have been, were certainly not
Hottentots. Then the Kaffirs swept down and ejected the Hottentots,
and the Dutch and other white colonists ejected the Kaffirs.

So it has been with the tribe of the Makololo, which, though thinly
scattered, and by no means condensed, has contrived to possess a large
portion of Southern Africa. Deriving their primary origin from a branch
of the great Bechuana tribe, and therefore retaining many of the customs
of that tribe together with its skill in manufactures, they were able to
extend themselves far from their original home, and by degrees contrived
to gain the dominion over the greater part of the surrounding country.
Yet in 1861, when Dr. Livingstone passed through the country of the
Makololo, he saw symptoms of its decadence.

Cowards Put To Death.

They had been organized by a great and wise chief named Sebituane,
who rarried out to the fullest extent the old Roman principle of mercy
to the submissive, and war to the proud. Sebituane owed nuch of his
success to his practice of leading his troops to battle in person. When
he came withii sight of the enemy, he significantly felt the edge of
his battle-axe and said, " Aha ! it is sharp, and whoever turns his
back on the enemy will feel its edge." Being remarkably fleet of foot,
none of his soldiers could escape from him, and they found that it was
far safer to fling themselves on the enemy with the chance of repelling
him, than run away with the certainty of being cut down by the chief's
battle-axe.

Sometimes a cowardly soldier skulked, or hid himself Sebituane,
however, was not to be deceived, and, after allowing him to return home,
he would send for the delinquent, and, after mockingly assuming thaf
death at home was preferable to death on the field of battle, would order
him to instant execution.

He incorporated the conquered tribes with his own Makololo, sayin^;
that, when they submitted to his rule, they were all children of the chief,
and therefore equal ; and he proved his words by admitting them to par-
ticipate in the highest honors, and causing them to intermarry with his
own tribe. Under him was an organized system of head chiefs, and
petty chiefs and elders, through whom Sebituane knew all the affairs of

ili

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

his kingdom, and guided it well and wisely. But, when he died, the
band that held together this nation was loosened, and bid fair to give
way altogether. His son and successor, Sekeletu, was incapable of
following the example of his father. He allowed the prejudices of race
to be again developed, and fostered them himself by studiously excluding
all women except the Makololo from his harem, and appointing none but

Makololo men to office.

A Worthless Ruler.

Consequently, he became exceedingly unpopular among those very
tribes whom his father had succeeded in conciliating, and, as a natural
result, his chiefs and elders being all Makololo men, they could not
enjoy the confidence of the incorporated tribes, and thus the harmonious
system of Sebituane was broken up. Without confidence in their rulers,
a people cannot retain their position as a great nation ; and Sekeletu, in
forfeiting that confidence, sapped with his own hands the foundation of
his throne. Discontent began to show itself, and his people drew
unfavorable contrasts between his rule and that of his father, some even
doubting whether so weak and purposeless a man could really be the son
of their lamented chief, the " Great Lion," as they called him. " In his
days," said they, " we had great chiefs, and little chiefs, and elders, to
carry on the government, and the great chief, Sebituane, knew them all,
and the whole country was wisely ruled. But now Sekeletu knows noth-
ing, and the Makololo power is fast passing away."

Then Sekeletu fell ill of a horrible and disfiguring disease, shut him-
self up in his house, and would not show hipiself ; allowing no one to
come near him but one favorite, through whom his orders were
transmitted to the people! But the nation got tired of being ruled by
dep ty, and consequently a number of conspiracies were organized,
which never could have been done under the all-pervading rule of Seb-
ituane, and several of the greater chiefs boldly set their king at defiance.
As long as Sekeletu lived, the kingdom retained a nominal, though not
a real existence, but withiji a year after his death, which occured in 1864,
civil wars sprang up on every side ; the kingdom thus divided was
weakened, and unable to resist the incursions of surrounding tribes, and
thus, within the space of a very few years, the great Makololo empire
fell to pieces.

According to Dr. Livingstone, this event was much to be regretted,
considering the character of its people.

Mr. Baines, who knew both the father and the son, has the very
meanest opinion of the latter, and the highest of the former. In his

.: -il

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

notes, which show a man of very keen discernment, he briefly character-
izes them as follows : — " Sebituane.a polished, merciful man. Sekeletu, his
successor, a fast young snob, with no judgment. Killed off his father's
councillors, and did as he liked. Helped the missionaries to die rather

WiLD CHARGE OF A BUFFALO UPON HUNTERS.

ihanto live, even if he did not intentionally poison them — then plundered
their provision stores."

The true Makololo are a fine race of men, and are lighter in color than
the surrounding tribes, being of a rich warm brown, rather than black,

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

iefly character-
1. Sekeletu, his
off his father's
:s to die rather

then plundered

;r in color than
lier than black,

and they are rather peculiar in their intonation, pronouncing each sylla-
ble slowly and deliberately.

The general character of this people seems to be a high one, and in
many respects will bear comparison with the Ovambo. Brave they have
proved themselves by their many victories, though it is rather remarkable
that they do not display the same courage when opposed to the lion at
when engaged in warfare against their fellow-men. Yet they are not
without courage and presence of mind in the hunting-field, though the
dread king of beasts seems to exercis# such an influence over them that
they fear to resist his inroads.

The buffalo is really quite as much to be dreaded as the lion, and yet
the Makololo are comparatively indifferent when pursuing it. The
animal has an unpleasant habit of doubling back on its trail, crouching
in the bush, allowing the hunters to pass its hiding-place, and then to
charge suddenly at them with such a force and fury that it scatters the
hunters before its headlong rush like autumn leaves before the wind.

Hospitality is one of their chief virtues, and it is exercised with a
modesty which is rather remarkable. " The people of every village,"
writes Livingstone, " treated us most liberally, presenting, besides oxen,
butter, milk, and meal, more than we could stow away in our canoes.
The cows in this valley are now yielding, as they frequently do, more
milk than the people can use, and both men and women present butter
in such quantities, that I shall be able to refresh my men as we go along.
Anointing the skin prevents the excessive evaporation of the fluids of
the body, and acts as clothing in both sun and shade.

Famous Story of the Wagon.

" They always made their piesents graceful'; . When an ox was given,
the owner would say, ' Here is a little bit of bread for you.' This was
pleasing, ^^r I had been accustomed to the Bechuanas presenting a
miserable goat, with the pompous exclamation, ' Behold an ox ! * The
women persisted in giving me copious supplies of shrill praises, or MuUi-
looing,' but although I frequently told them to modify their 'Great
Lords,' and ' Great Lions,' to more humble expressions, they so evidently
intended to do me honor, that I could not help being pleased with the
poor creatures' wishes for our success."

One remarkable instance of the honesty of this tribe is afforded by
Dr. Livingstone. In 1853, he had left at Lrnyanti, a place on the Zam-
besi River, a wagon containing papers and stores. He had been away
from Linyanti, to which place he found that letters and packages had

Accordingly, in i860, he determined, on revisiting

been sent for him.

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'■i

'li

the spot, and, when he arrived there, found that everything in the wagon
was exactly in the same state as when he left it in charge of the king
seven ycar.s before. The head men of the place were veiy glad to see
him back again, and only lamented that he had not arrived in the
previous year, which happened to be one of special plenty.

This hotiesty is the more remarkable, because they had good reason
to fear the attacks of the Matabele, who, if they had heard that a wagon
with property in it was kept in the place, would have attacked Linyanti
at once, in spite of its strong poUtion amid rivers and marshes. How
ever, the Makololo men agreed that in that case they were to fight in
defence of the wagon, and that the first man who wounded a Matabele
in defence of the wagon was to receive cattle as a reward. It is prob-
able, however, that the great personal influence which Dr. Livingstone
exercised over the king and his tribe had much to do with the behavior
of these Makololo, and that a man of less capacity and experience would
have been robbed of everything that could be stolen.

How Strangers are Received.

When natives travel, especially if they should be headed by a chief,
various ceremonies take place, the women being intrusted wijh the task
of welcoming the visitors. This they do by means of a shrill, prolonged,
undulating cry, produced by a rapid agitation of the tongue, and
expressivel) called " luUilooing." The men follow their example, and it
is etiquette for the chief to receive all these salutations with perfect
indifference. As soon as the new comers are seated, a conversation
takes pLice, in which the two parties exchange news, and then the head
man rises and brings out a quantity of beer in large pots. Calabash
goblets are handed round, and every one makes it a point of honor to
drink as fast as he can, the fragile goblets being often broken in this
convivial rivalry.

Besides the beer, jars of clotted milk are produced in plenty, and each
of the jars is given to the principal men, who are at liberty to divide it
as they choose. Although originally sprung from the liechuanas, the
Makololo disdain the use of spoons, preferring to scoop up the milk ii;
their hands, and, if a spoon be given to them, they merely ladle out
.-ome milk from the jar, put it into their hands, and so eat it. A chief is
expected to give several feasts of meat to his followers. He chooses an
ox, and hands it over to some favored individual, who proceeds to kill it
by piercing its heart with a slender spear. The wound is carefully
closed, so that the animal bleeds internally, the whole of the blood, as
well as the viscera, forming the perquisite of the butcher

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

in the wagon
e of the king
:iy glad to see
arrived in the

d good reason
d that a wagon
icked Linyanti
arshes. How
were to fight in
led a Matabcle
rd. It is prob-
Dr. Livingstone
th the behavior
tperience would

ided by a chief,
sd with the task
shrill, prolonged,
le tongue, and
example, and it
)ns with perfect
a conversation
then the head
pots. Calabash
)int of honor to
broken in this

plenty, and each
jerty to divide it
Ikchuanas, the
up the milk in
lie rely ladle out
at it. A chief is
He chooses an
roceeds to kill it
und is carefully
of the blood, as

•f'^

Scarcely is the ox dead than it is cut up, the best parts, namely, the
hump and ribs, belonging to the chief, who also apportions the different
parts of the slain animal amofig his guests, just as Joseph did with his
brethren, each of the honored guests subdividing his own portion among
his immediate followers. The process of cooking is simple enough, the
meat being merely cut into strips and thrown on the fire, often in such
quantities that it is neatly extinguished. Before it is half cooked, it is
taken from the embers, and eaten while so hot that none but a practised
meat-eater could endure it, the chief object being to introduce as much
meat as possible into the stomach in a given time.

It is not manners to eat after a man's companions have finished their
meal, and so each guest eats as much and as fast as he can, and acts
as if he had studied in the school of Sir Dugal Dalgetty. Neither is it
manners for any one to take a solitary meal, and, knowing this custom,
Dr. Livingstone always contrived to have a second cup of tea or coffee
by his side whenever he took his meals, so that the chief, or one of the
principal men, might join in the repast.

Among the Makololo, rank has its drawbacks as well as its privileges,
;vand among the former may be reckoned one of the customs which regu-
'late meals. A chief may not dine alone, and it is also necessary that at
^each meal the whole of the provisions should be consumed. If Sekeletu
had an ox killed, every particle of it was consumed at a single meal, and
in consequence he often suffered severely from hunger before another
could be prepared for him and his followers. So completely is this cus-
tom ingrained in the nature of the Makololo, that, when Dr. Livingstone
visited Sekeletu, the latter was quite scandalized that a portion of the
meal was put aside. However, he soon .saw the advantage of the plan,
and after awhile followed it himself, in spite of the remonstrances of the
old men ; and, while the missionary was with him, they played into each
other's hands by each reserving a portion for the other at every meal.

Great Skill in Usingr Canoes.

As the Makololo live much on the banks of the river Zambesi, they
naturally use the canoe, and are skilful in its management. These canoes
are flat-bottorned, in order to enable them to pass over the numerous
shallows of the Zambesi, and are sometimes forty feet in length, carrying
from six to ten paddlers, besides other freight. The paddles are about
eight feet in length, and, when the canoe gets into shallow water, the pad-
dles are used as punt-poles. The paddlers stand while at work, and keep
time as if they were engaged in a University boat race, so that they pro-
pel the vessel with considerable speed.

■I' .

r
1

1 i. ;
i 1

1 ;

i r

ki^

A CF.LEBRATED AFRICAN TKinE.

8ft

Being flat- bottomed, the boats 'leed very skilful management, especx-
; ally in so rapid and variable a river as the Zambesi, where sluggish"
depths, rock-beset shallows, and swift rapids, follow each other repeat-
edly. If the canoe should happen to come broadside to the current, it
would inevitably be upset, and as the Makololo are not ail swimmers,
several of the crew would probably be drowned. As soon, therefore, as
such a danger seems to be pending, those who can swim jump into the
ivater and guide the canoe through the sunken rocks and dangerous ed-
dies. Skill in the management of the canoe is especially needed in the
chase of the hippopotamus, which they contrive to hunt in their own
^element, and which they seldom fail in securing, in spite of the enormou?
size, the furious anger, and the formidable jaws of this remarkable animal.
Terrible Encounter with the Kiver- Horse.
The dangers of travel are seen from the following account given by a
traveller while making a trip up the Nile:

•; It was on this trip that I had a narrow escape from falling into the
|iws of " the river-horse," — hippopotamus, one of the largest of mammals.
iTiis animal can never have been very common on the lower part of the
iiyer, for you do not see his easily recognized figure among the hiero-
g1yphi:s with which the temples are filled, between the Delta and the
mst cataract. Nor does Roman history often mention them in the games
or triumphs of the emperore, which is singular, when tigers, lions and
elephants figure so often. But farther up the river you meet him still,
isually swimming very low in the water, with simply his nose, eyes and
ifars above its surface, and followed by his mate, — for they travel usually
^^ couples. But on the day to which I refer, this number was increased
ib three — and huge specimens they were — sunning themselves on the
left bank of the river, and on the back of the female rested a young one,
Uglier, if possible, th.in its fon;l parents.

We were six of us, only one a native, rowing along the shore in a skiff;
and one of my companions, a Frenchman, with the careless thoughdess-
"less of his race, raised his rifle and let drive at the youngster. There
'as a tremendous splashing and racket, and the water for yards was
lirred up by the four mighty bodies diving into it simultaneously. A
ry of warning came from our guide, who began jabbering away in hift
iwn lingo at a great rate.

What's the beggar raising all this row about?" asked the Frenchman;!
*'Pull for your life!" shouted I. "You'll have the whole party round
I in a minute."

The boat was a poor one for speed, and we were still a long way from

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

^11

f;.

;: '■'}

i I

^1 :' m

J..; ri

the nearest point of lant! when the snouts of the hippopotomi camet the
surface within pistol-shot of the stern. Tn a moment they were around
us threateninsi to crush the thwarts of our craft and make two mouthfuls
'^f the whole party.

We dropped our oa''s- -for flicfht was out of the question — and seized
J ir guns. Placing my barrel almost against the eye of the largest, '

DRIVINO CRr>CODn.ES INTO THE WATER.

emptied both barrels into his head, and he sank without a gurgle into
tlie muddy water. Meanwhile the other end of the boat had been less
f)itunatc. The remaining male had fastened his massive jaws in the
gunwale and was crunching it like paper, while the Frenchman, the cause
of all the danger, was ineffectually belaboring his head with an oar, his
empty gun being, of course, useless.

Luckily for us, one of the party had a loaded rifle and som.* 'iresence

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN 1 RIBE.

som.* '»resence

of mind left, and to these hippopotamus number two reluctantly yielded,
and went to join his friend at the bottom of the muddy river. It is
really cur-'ous how easily and quickly so huge an animal will die under
modern weapons, when you remember what difficulty the ancients expe-
rienced in killing large game, and how an entire army was needed to cope
with an elephant or hippopotamus.

But to return to our still rather unpleasant predicament: before
\he female could reach us, we were all reloaded and ready for her
She seemed to realize this, for, without waiting for our eordial reception,
she turned tail and made for the other shore, leaving a wake behind her
like a harbor steamboat. Reaching a long tongue of land near the far-
ther bank, she waded through the shallows itid across it, disturbing the
crocodiles sunning thereon, and driving then, into the water beyond, into
which she followed them and was lost to our sight. And not one of the
party seemed to care !

Sini^ular Habits of the Makololo.

The dress of the men differs but little from that which is in use in other
parts of Africa south of the equator, and consists chiefly of a skin
twisted round the loins, and a mantle of the same material thrown ovex
the shoulders, the latter being only worn in cold weather. The Makololo
are a cleanly race, particularly when they happen to be in the neighbor-
hood of a river or lake, in which they bathe several times daily. The
men, however, are better in this respect than the women, who seem
rather to be afraid of cold water, preferring to rub their bodies with
melted butter, which has the effect of making their skins glossy, and
keeping off parasites, but also imparting a peculiarly unpleasant odor to
themselves and their clothing.

As to the women, they are clothed in a far better manner than the men,
and are exceedingly fond of ornaments, wearing a skin kilt or kaross,
and adorning themselves with as many ornaments as they can afford.
The traveller who has already been quoted mentions that a sister of the
great chief Sebituane wore enough ornaments to be a load for an ordi^
nary man. On each leg she had eighteen rings of solid brass, as thick
as a man's finger, and three of copper under each knee; nineteen similar
rings on her right arm, and eight of brass and copper on her left. She
had also a large ivory ring above each elbow, a broad band of beads
round her waist, and another round her neck, being altogether nearly one
hundred large and heavy rings. The weight of the rings on her legs
was so great, that she was obliged to wrap soft rags round the lower
rings, as they had begun to chafe her ankles. Under this weight of

■'"**<♦:.

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'8! •?

J^Slil

9P ^'^^-IW"

metal she could walk but awkwardly, but fashion proved itself superiot
to pain with this Makololo woman, as among her American sisters.

Both in color and general manners, the Makololo women are superior
to most of the tribes. This superiority is partly due to the light warm
brown of their complexion, and partly to their mode of life. Unlike the
women of ordinary African tribes, those of the Makololo lead a compara-
bVely easy life, having their harder labors shared by their husband><, who
aid in digging the ground, and in other rough work. Even the domcsti;
work is done more by servants than by the mistresses of the household
so that the Makololo women are not liable to that rapid deterioi alien
which is so evident among other tribes. In fact they have so much time
to them.selves, and so little to occupy them, that they are apt to fall
into rather dissipated habits, and spend much of their time in smoking
hemp and drinking beer, the former habit being a most insidious one, and
apt to cause a peculiar eri'ptive disease. Sekeletu was a votary of the
hemp-pipe, and, by his over-indulgence in this luxury, he induced the
disease of which he afterward died.

Women Who Build Houses.

The only hard work that falls to the lot of the Makololo women is
that of house-building, which is left entirely to them and their servants.
The mode of making a house is rather remarkable. The first business
is to buiid a cylindrical tower oi stakes and reeds, plastered with mud,
and some nine or ten feet in height, the walls and floor being smoothly
plastered, so as to prevent them from harboring insects. A large conical
roof is then put together on the ground, and completely thatched with
reeds. It is then lifted by many hands, and lodged on top of the circular
tower. As the roof projects far beyond the central tower, it is supported
by stake , and, as a general rule, the spaces between these stakes are
filled up with a wall or fence of reeds plastered with mud. This roof is
not permanently fixed either to the supporting stakes or the central tower,
and can be removed at pleasure. When a visitor arrives among the
Makololo, he is often lodged by the simple process of lifting a finished
!oof off an unfinished house, and putting it on the ground.

Although it is then so low that a man can scarcely sit, much h.'s-
stand upright, it answers very well for Southern Africa, where the whole
of active life is spent, as a rule, in the open air, and where houses are only
used as sleeping-boxes. The doorway that gives admission into the cir-
cular v;hamber is always small.

In a house that was assigned to Dr. Livingstone, it was only nineteen
inches in total height, twenty-two in width at the floor, and twelve at the

itself superioi

sisters.

are superior
le li^ht warm
. Unlike the
id a compara-
lUsbancN, who
1 the domcstii
le household
I deterioi alien
so much time
are apt to fall
e in smoking
dious one, and
I votary of the
e induced the

olo women is

their servants.

first business

red with mud,

ing smoothly

large conical

thatched with

of the circular

t is supported

se stakes are

This roof is

central tower,

es among tiie

tins: a finished

sit, much l<:s:'
ere the whole
ouses are only
into the cir-

only nineteen
twelve at the

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN" TRIBE.

' top. A native Makololo, with no particular encumbrance in the way of
clothes, makes his way through the doorway easily enough ; but an
American with all the impediments of dress about him finds himself sadly

V, hampered in attempting to gain the penetration of a Makololo house.
Except through this door, the tower has neither light not ventilation
Some of the best houses have two, and even three, of these towers, built
concentrically within each other, and each having its entrance about as
large as the door of an ordinary dog-kennel. Of course the atmospheic
is very close at night, but the people care nothing about that.

^>>?^s s

HOUSE-BUILDING IN AFRICA.

Our illustration is from a sketch furnished by Mr. Baines. It repre-
ints a nearly completed Makololo house on the banks of the Zambesi
iver, just above the great Victoria Falls. The women have placed the
)of on the building, and are engaged in the final process of fixing the
latch. In the centre is seen the cylindrical tower which forms the inner
lamber, together with a portion of the absurdly small door by which it

entered. Round it is the inner wall, which is also furnished with its

1% ■ '

i|il

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

' doorway. These are made of stakes and withes, upon which is worked
a quantity of clay, well patted on by hand, so as to form a thick and
strong wall. Even the wall which surrounds the building and the whole
of the floor are made of the same material. ^

Walls Within WaUs.

It will be seen that there are four concentric wails in this building.
First comes the outer wall, which encircles the whole premises. Next is
i low wall, which is built up against the posts that support the ends oj
the rafters, and which is partly supported by them. Within this is a third
wall, which encloses what may be called the ordinary living room of the
house ; and within all is the inner chamber, or tower, which is in fact
only another circular wall of much less diameter and much greater
height. It will be seen that the walls of the house increase regularly in
height, and decrease regularly in diameter, so as to correspond with the
conical roof.

On the left of the illustration is part of a millet-field, beyond which are
some completed houses. Among them are some of the fan-palms with
recurved leaves. That on the left is a young tree, and retains all its
leaves, while that on the right is an old one, and has shed the leaves to-
ward the base of the stem, the foliage and the thickened portion of the
trunk having worked their way gradually upward. More palms are
growing on the Zambesi River, and in the background are seen the vast
spray clouds arising from the Falls

The comparatively easy life led 1 ■ . i Makololo women makes polyg-
amy less of a hardship to them ti ' iS .he case among neighboring
tribes, and, in fact, even if the men were willing to abandon the system,
the women would not consent to do so. With them marriage, though it
never rises to the rank which it holds in civilized countries, is not a mere
matter of barter. It is true that the husband is expected to pay a cer-
tain sum to the parents of his bride, as a recompense for her services
and as purchase money to retain in his own family the children that she
may have, and which would by law belong to her father. Then, again,
when a wife dies her husband is obliged to send an ox to her family, in
order to recompense them for their loss, she being still reckoned as form-
ing part of her parent's family, and her individuaUty not being totally
Dicrged into that of her husband.

African Mormons.

Plurality of wives is in vogue among the Makololo, and, indeed, an ab-
solute necessity under the present condition of the race, and the women ^
would be quite as unwilling as the men to have a system of monogamy

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

which is worked

*orm a thick and

g and the whole
*

in this building,
emises. Next is
3ort the ends oi
bin this is a third
dng room of the
which is in fact
id much greater
ease regularly in
respond with the

aeyond which are
e fan-palms with
nd retains all its
ed the leaves to-
ld portion of the
More palms are
ire seen the vast

len makes polyg-

ong neighboring

idon the system,

irriage, though it

ies, is not a mere

d to pay a cer

for her services

children that she

er. Then, again,

to her family, in

eckoned as form-

lot being totally

.'Hi

imposed upon them. No man is respected by his neighbors who does
not possess several wives, and, indeed, without them he could not be
wealthy, each wife tilling a certain quantity of ground, and the produce
belonging to a common stock. Of course, there are cases where polyg-
amy fs certainly a hardship, as, for example, when old men choose to
marry very young wives. But, on the whole, and under existing condi-
tions, polygamy is the only possible system.

Another reason for the plurality of wives, as given by themselves, is
that a man with one wife would not be able to exercise that hospitality
which is one of the special duties of the tribe. Strangers are taken to
the huts and there entertained as honored guests, and as the women are
the principal providers of food, chief cultivators of the soil, and sole
guardians of the corn stores, their co-operation is absolutely necessary
for anyone who desires to carry out the hospitable institutions of his
tribe. It has been mentioned that the men often take their share in the
hard work. This laudable custom, however, prevailed most among the
true Makololo men, the incorporated tribes preferring to follow the usual
African custom, and to make the women work while they sit down and
smoke their pipes.

The men have become adepts at carving wood, making wooden pots
with lids, and bowls and jars of all sizes. Moreover, of late years, the
Makololo have learned to think that sitting on a stool is more comforta-
ble than squatting on the bare ground, and have, in consequence, begun
to carve the legs of their stools into various patterns.

The Boatman's Strange Ideas.

Like the people from whom they are descended, the Makololo are a
law-loving race and manage their government by means of councils or
parliaments, resembling the pichos of the Bechuanas, and consisting of a
number of individuals assembled in a circle round the chief, who occupies
\he middle. On one occasion, when there was a large halo round the
sun. Dr. Livmgstone pointed it out to his chief boatman. The man im-
mediately replied that it was a parliament of the Barimo, that is, the gods,
or departed spirits, who were assembled round their chief, that is the sun.

Vox major crimes a picho is generally held, and the accused, if found
guilty, is condemned to death. The usual mode of execution is for twc
men to grasp the condemned by his wrists, lead him a mile from the
town, and then to spear him. Resistance is not offered, neither is the
criminal allowed to speak. So quiet is the whole proceeding that, on
one very remarkable occasion, a rival chief was carried off within a few
yards of Dr. Livingstone without his being aware of the fact.

9S^

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Shortly after Sebituane's death, while his son Sekelctu was yet a young
man of eighteen, and but newly raised to the throne, a rival named
Mpepe, who had been appointed by Scbituane chief of a division of tJie
tribe, aspired to the throne. He strengthened his pretensions by super-
stition, having held for some years a host of incantations, at which a num-
ber of native wizards assembled, and performed a number of enchantments
so potent that even the strong-minded Sebituane was afraid of him. After
the death of that great chief, Mpepe organized a conspiracy whereby he
should be able to murder Sekeletu and to take his throne. The plot,
however, was discovered, and on the night of its failure, his executioners
came quietly to Mpepe's fire, took his wrists, led him out, and speared

him.

Flungr to the Crocodiles, *

Sometimes the offender is taken into the river in a boat, strangled, and
flung into the water, where the crocodiles are waiting to receive him.
Disobedience to the chief's command is thought to be quite sufficient
cause for such a punishment. For lesser offences fines are inflicted, a par-
liament not being needed, but the case beiiij^ heard before the chief.

Dr. Livingstone relates in a very graphic style the manner in which
these cases arc conducted. "The complainant asks the man against
whom he means to lodge his complaint to come with him to the chief
This is uever refused. When both are in the kotla, the complainant
stands up and states the whole case before the chief and people usually
assembled there. He stands a few seconds after he has done this to
recollect if he has forgotten anything. The witnesses to whom he has
referred then rise up and tell all that they themselves have seen or heard,
but not anything that they have heard from others. The defendant, after
allowing some minutes to elapse, so that he may not interrupt any of the
opposite party, slowly rises, folds his cloak about him, and in the most
quiet and deliberate way he can assume, yawning, blowing his nose, etc.,
begins to explain the affair, denying the charge or admitting it, as the
case may be.

"Sometimes, when galled by his remarks, the complainant utters a sen-
tence of dissent. The accused turns quietly to him and says, * Be silent, I sat
while you were speaking. Can not you do the same ? Do you want to have
it all to yourself?* And, as the audience acquiesce in this bantering, and
enfbrce silence, he goes on until he has finished all he wishes to say in his
defence. If he has any witnesses to the truth of the facts of his defence,
they give their evidence. No oath is administered, but occasionally,
when a statement is questioned, a man will say, 'By my father,' or *By

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

5 yet a young
rival named
ivision of the
)ns by super-
which a num-
enchantments
afhim. After
y whereby he
e. The plot,
; executioners
, and speared

strangled, and
3 receive him.
uite sufficient
iflicted, a par-
he chief.
iner in which
man against
n to the chief
2 complainant
)eople usually
done this to
whom he has
;een or heard,
efendant, after
pt any of the
d in the most
his nose, etc.,
ting it, as the

utters a sen-
Be silent, I sat
I want to have
)antering, and
s to say in his
f his defence,
occasionally,
ither,' or 'By

the chief, it is so.' Their truthfulness among each other is quite remark-
able, but their system of government is such that Americans are not in a
position to realize it readily. A poor man will say in his defence against
a rich one, ' I am astonished to hear a man so great as he make a false
accusation,' as if the offence of falsehood were felt to be one against the
society which the individual referred to had the greatest interest in up-
holding."

When a case is brought before the king by chiefs or other influential
men, it is expected that the councillors who attend the royal presence
shall give their opinions, and the permission to do so is inferred whenever
the king remains silent' after having heard both parties. It is a point of
etiquette that all the speakers stand except the king, who alone has the
privilege of speaking while seated

Dividing the Spoils.
There is even a series of game-laws in the country, all ivory belonging
of right to the king, and every tusk being brought to him. This right
is, however, only nominal, as the king is expected to share the ivory
I- among his people, and if he did not do so, he would not be able to
enforce the law. In fact, the whole law practically resolves itself into
this: that the king gets one tusk and the hunters get the other, while
the flesh belongs to those who kill the a.iimal. And, as the flesh is to
the people far more valuable than the ivory, the agreement is much fairer
than appears at first sight.

Practically it is a system of make-believes. The successful hunters
kill two elephants, taking four tusks to the king, and make believe to
offer them for his acceptance. He makes believe to take them as his
right, and then makes believe to present them with two as ;> free gift
from himself They acknowledge the royal bounty with abundant thanks
and recapitulation of titles, such as Great Lion, etc., and so all parties
are equally satisfied.

Among the Makololo, as well as among Americans, the spirit of play
is strong in children, and they engage in various games, chiefly consisting
in childish imitation of the more serious pursuits of their parents. The
following account of their play is given by Dr. Livingstone: "The chil-
dren have merry times, especially in the cool of the evening. One of
their games consists of a little girl being carried on the shoulders of two
others. She sits with outstretched arms, as they walk about with hgr,
and all the rest clap their hands, and stopping before each hut, sing
pretty airs, some beating time on their little kilts of cow-skin, and others
making a curious humming sound between the songs. Excepting this

I 1

!--.|!

vii

(

I
I

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

and the skipping-rope, the play of the girls consists in imitation of the
serious work of their mothers, building little huts, making small pots,
and cooking, pounding corn in miniature mortars, or hoeing tiny gar-
dens.

Sports of African Boys.

"The boys play with spears of reeds pointed with wood, and small
shields, or bows and arrows; or amuse themselves in making little cattle
pens, or cattle in clay — they show great ingenuity in the imitation oi
variously shaped horns. Some, too, are said to us«* slings, but, as soon
as they can watch the goats or calves, they are sent to the field. We saw
many boys riding on the calves they had in charge, but this is an innova-
tion since the arrival of the English with their horses. Tselane, one of
the ladies, on observing me one day noting observations on the wet
and dry bulb thermometers, thought I too was engaged in play. On
receiving no reply to her question, which was rather difficult to answer,
as their native tongue has no scientific terms, she said with roguish glee,
'Poor thing! playing like a little child!'"

Mr. Baines represents a domestic scene in a Makololo family. The
house belongs to a chief named M'Bopo, who was very friendly to Mr.
Baines and his companions, and was altogether a fine specimen of a
savage gentleman. He was exceedingly hospitable to his guests, not
only feeding them well, but producing great jars of pombe, or native
beer, which they were obliged to consume either personally or by
deputy.

M'Bopo's chief wife sits beside him, and is distinguished by the two
ornaments which she wears. On her forehead is a circular piece of hide,
kneaded while wet so as to form a shallow cone. The inside of this cone
is entirely covered with beads, mostly white, and scarlet in the centre.
Upon her neck is another ornament, which is valued very highly. It is the
base of a shell, a species of conus — the whole of which has been ground
away except the base. This ornament is thought so valuable that when
the great chief Shinte presented Dr. Livingstone with one, he took
the precaution of coming alone, and carefully closing the tent door,
so that none of his people should witness an act of such extravagant
generosity.

Wliite People Better Looking- than Supposed.

This lady was good enough to express her opinion of the white trav-
ellers. They were not so ugly, said she, as she had expected. All that
hair on their heads and faces was certainly disagreeable, but their faces
were pleasant enough, and their hands were well formed, but the great de-

! J

itation of the
T small pots,
ing tiny gar-

od, and small
g little cattle
e imitation oi
3, but, as soon
leld. We saw
; is an innova-
'sclane, one of
3 on the wet
in play. On
lilt to answer,
roguish glee,

family. The
"riendly to Mr.
specimen of a

s guests, not
nbe, or native

onally or by

d by the two
piece of hide,
le of this cone
in the centre,
jhly. It is the
been ground
)le that when
one, he took
le tent door,
extravagant

le white trav-

:d. All that

[ut their faces

the great de-

(yo)

rll

I ;

I i:m

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

feet in them was, that they had no toes. The worthy lady had never heard
of boots, and evidently considered them as analogous to the hoof of cat-
tie. It was found necessary to remove tl\e boots, and convince her that
the white man really had toes.

The Makololo have plenty of amusements after their own fashion,
which is certainly not that of an American. Even those who have lived
among them for some time, and have acknowledged that they are amono
the most favorable specimens of African heathendom, have been utterly
disgusted and wearied with the life which they had to lead. There is nc
quiet and no repose day or night, and Dr. Livingstone, who might be ex-
pected to be thoroughly hardened against annoyance by trifles, states
broadly that the dancing, singing, roaring, jesting, story-telling, grumb-
ling, and quarreling of the Makololo were a severer penance than any-
thing which he had undergone in all his experience. He had to live
with them, and was therefore brought in close contact with them.

A Crazy Danco.
The first three items of savage life, namely, dancing, singing and roar-
ing, seem to be inseparably united, and the savages seem to be incapable
of getting up a dance unless accompanied by roaring on the part of the
performers, and singing on the part of the spectators — the latter sounds
being not more melodious than the former.

Dr. Livingstone gives a very graphic account of a Makololo dance.
" As this was the first visit which Sekeletu had paid to this part of his
dominions, 't was to many a season of great joy. The head men of each
village presented oxen, milk and beer, more than the horde which accom-
panied him could devour, though their abilities- in that way are something
wonderful.

"The people usually show their joy and work off their excitement in •
dances and songs. The dance consists of men standing nearly nakcti in
a circle, with clubs or small battle-axes in their hands, and each roaring
at the loudest pitch of his voice, while'they simultaneously lift one leg,
stamping twice with it, then lift the other and give one stamp with it;
this is the only movement in common. The arms and head are thrown
=ibout also in every direction, and all this time the roaring is kept up with
the utmost possible vigor. The continued stamping makes a cloud of
dust ascend, and they leave a deep ring in the ground where they have
stood.

" If the scene were witnessed in a lunatic asylum, it would be nothing
out of the way, and quite appropriate as a means of letting off tlie exces-
sive excitement of the brain. But here, gray-headed men joined in the

A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE.

performance with as much zest as others whose youth might be an excuse
for making the perspiration start off their bodies with the exertion.
Motebe asked what I thought of the Makololo dance. I replied, ' It is
very hard work, and brings but small profit' ' It is,' he replied ; ' but it
is very nice, ancf the Sekeletu will give us an ox for dancing for him.'
He usually does slaughter an ox for the dancers when the work is
over.

" The women stand by, clapping their hands, and occasionally one ad-
vances within the circle, composed of a hundred men, makes a few move-
ments, and then retires. As I never tried it, and am unable to enter into
the spirit of the thing, I cannot recommend the Makololo polka to the
dancing world, but I have the authority of no less a person than Motebe,
Sekeletu's father-in-law, for saying that it is very nice."

Many of the Makololo are inveterate smokers, preferring hemp even to
tobacco, because it is more intoxicating. They delight in smoking them-
selves into a positive frenzy, which passes away in a rapid stream of un-
meaning words, or short sentences, as, " The green grass growh," " The
;fat cattle thrive," " The fishes swim." No one in the group pays the
f slightest attention to the vehement eloquence, or the sage or silly utter-
I ances of the oracle, who stops abruptly, and, the instant common sense
returns, looks foolish. They smoke the hemp through water, using a
Icoodoo horn for their pipe, much in the way that the Damaras and other
tribes use it.

Over-indulgence in this luxury has a very prejudicial effect on the
health, producing an eruption over the whole body that is quite unmis-
takable. In consequence of this effect, the men prohibit their wives from
using the hemp, but the result of the prohibition seems only to be that the
women smoke secretly instead of openly, and are afterward discovered by
the appearance of the skin. It is the more fascinating, because its use im-
parts a spurious strength to the body, while it enervates the mind to
such a degree that the user is incapable of perceiving the state in which
he is gradually sinking, or of exercising sufficient self-control to abandon
Dr even modify the destructive habit. Sekeletu was a complete victim of
the hemp-pipe, and there is no doubt that the illness, something like the
dreaded "craw-craw" of Western Africa, was aggravated, if not ^zausedL
by over-indulgence in smoking hemp.

I :i .

1 i

li"'iii^

i (

1-^'

CHAPTER V.
PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS.

Kunarkable Successes of Livingstone — Forming a Station in the Wilderness— The
Explorer Builds a House— Search for a Great Lake— A Desert with Prodigious
Herds of Wild Animals— Starting on a Perilous Journey— Wagons Left in Charge
of Natives— Travelling in Frail Canoes— Haunts of the Hippopotami— Thrilling
Adventure with Crocodiles— Frantic Struggles to Escape from Death— Shooting
the Huge Monster— Seized with a Sudden Horror— A Great Splash and a Cry of
Joy— Ancient Crocodiles with Immense Jaws — Exciting Encounter with a
River-Horse— A Remarkable Cliief— Rivers and Swamps Breeding Fevers —
Reaching the Banks of the Zambesi— Prevalence of a Troublesome Fly— A
Magnificent River— Livingstone's Journey of a Thousand Miles with his Family—
Malicious Attack by the Dutch Boers— Livingstone's House Plundered— The
Explorer Reaches the Capital of the Makololo — Cordial Welcome from the
Natives — The Young King Has a Rival — Ascending the Great River Zambesi-
Attempt on the Life of the King — Makololo Architecture — A Grand Dance-
Expedition to the West— The Balonda Country— A Visit to Shinti— Scarcity of
Food — ** -rival at Loanda— Attacked by Savages— On the Leeba — Arrival at
Linyanii.

'AVING given a full description of the curious customs and re-
markable character of the tribes among whom Livingstone
spent many years, we are now prepared to take up the thread of
the narrative and follow him through his various fortuies, his
and his remarkable successes. The chief of the Bakwains,
Sechele, renounced his heathenism, became a much better man than he
had been before, restored his wives to their fathers, and lived in every
respect a thoroughly consistent life.

The Dutch Boers, who had pushed forward to the confines of the
country, proved, however, most adverse to the success of the mission by
cariying off the natives and compelling them to labor as slaves. By
advice Sechele and his people moved to Kolobeng, a stream about twc
hundred miles north of Kurnman, where Dr. Livingstone formed a
station.

He here built a house with his own hands, having learned carpentering
and gardening from Mr. Moffatt, as also blacksmith work. He had now
become handy at almost any trade, in addition to doctoring and preach-
ing, and, as his wife could make candles, soap, and clothes, they
possessed what might be considered the indispensable accomplishment*^
of a missionary family in Central Africa,
(98)

trials

PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS.

IS.

Wilderness— The
: with Prodigiouc
ns Left in Charge
jotami— Thrilling
Death — Shooting
lash and a Cry oi
ncounter with a
reeding Fevers —
iblesome Fly— A
with his Family—

Plundered — The
elcome from the

River Zambesi-
L Grand Dance—
Jhinti— Scarcity of
^eeba — Arrival at

jstoms and re-
"n Livingstone
p the thread of
IS fortuies, his

he Bakwains,
r man than he

Hved in every

:onfines of the

|the mission by

as slaves. By

;am about two

Itone formed a

id carpentering
He had now
ig and preach-
ciothes, they
Icomplishment*^

Among the gentlemen who had visited the station was Mr. Oswell, in
the East India Company's service. He deserves to take rank as an Af-
rican traveller. Hearing that Dr. Livingstone purposed crossing the
Kalahara Desert in search of the great Lake N'gami, long known to
exist, he came from India on purpose to join him, accompanied by Mro
Murray, volunteering to pay the entire expenses of the guides.

The Kalahara, though called a desert from being composed of soft sand
ind being destitute of water, supports prodigious herds of antelopes,
while numbers of elephants, rhinoceros, lions, hyaenas, and other wild
animals roam over it. They find support from the astonishing quantity
of grass which grows in the region, as also from a species of watermelon,
and from several tuberous roots, the most curious of which is as large as
the head of a young child, and filled with a fluid like that of a turnip.
Another is an herbaceous creeper, the tubers of which, as large as a man's
head, it deposits in a circle of a yard or more horizontally from the stem.
On the watermelons especially, the elephants and other wild animals
^ revel luxuriously.

Starting on a Hazardous Journey.

Such was the desert Livingstone and his party proposed to cross when
they set out with their wagon on the first of June, 1849, from Kolobeng.
Instead, however, of taking a direct course across it, they determined to
take a more circuitous route, which, though longer, they hoped would
prove safer.

Continuing on, they traversed three hundred miles of desert, when, at
the end of a month, they reached the banks of the Zouga, a large river,
richly fringed with fruit-bf'aring and other trees, many of them of gigantic
growth, running north-east towards Lake N'gami. They received a
cordial welcome from 'he peace-loving inhabitants of its banks, the
Bayeiye,

Leaving the wagons in charge of the natives, with the exception of a
small one which proc'^eded along the bank, Livingstone embarked in one
of their canoes. Frail as are the canoes of the natives, they make long
trips in them, and manage them with great skill, often standing up and
paddling with long light poles. They thus daringly attack the hippo-
potami in their haunts, or pursue the swift ' antelope which ventures to
swim across the river. After voyaging on the stream for twelve days,
they reached the broad expanse of Lake N'gami. Though wide, it is
excessively shallow, and brackish during the rainy season^ They' here
heard of the Tamunacle and other large rivers flowing into the lake.
Livingstone's main object in coming was to visit Sebituane, the great

" 4

f I

i if

•' .f

. ' »

■| ■ i;

■ !■

100

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

chief of the Makololo, who live about two hundred miles to the north-
ward. The chief of the district, Sechulatebe, refused, however, either to
give them goods or to allow them to cross the river. Having in vain
attempted to form a raft to ferry over the wa^on, they were reluctantly
compelled to abandon their design. The doctor had been working at the
saft in the river, not aware of the number of crocociles which sv.armed
around him, and had reason to be thankful that he escaped their jaws.

These creatures are the foes of the traveller, and even the natives
entertain for them a peculiar dread. Once in their ferocious jaws all hope
is gone. Livingstone had many narrow escapes from the crocodiles which
infest many of the rivers of Africa. A graphic account from the writings
of a traveller in Africa shows the dangers sometimes met with by Trop-
ical explorers. The account is as follows

Suddenly the scene became startling. I heard an exclamation of hor-
ror from the natives, who, with eyes starting from their sockets, pointed
eastward toward the nearer tree clumps.

"What is it?" said I, straining my eyes in the .same direction, but in
vain.

" Crocodiles ! Crocodiles ! "

I repeated the word mechanically, my heart sinking within me as I,
too, began to distinguish the black points which indicated to the nativts'
quick eyes the approaching enemy.

Face to Face with the Monsters.

"Are you sure?" I whispered hoarsely, the cold sweat pouring off
my forehead.

" Yes, Sahib, certain ; there are four of them."

I had only six explosive-ball cartridges, and, in spite of their terrible
effectiveness, I could but remember that the crocodile in the water is
well-nigh invulnerable, with only his armor-plated back exposed. How-
ever, the terrible foe was still some way off, and I should not myself have
detected them but for the natives' quick instinct. There was nothing left
us but to try, at any cost, to reach the nearest of the tree islands, avoid-
'ng by guess the bottomless mud-holes that beset the path.

The unfortunate native who was responsible for our position headed
the line again, sounding to right and left, as he advanced, with his .spear.
It is impossible to describe this adventure — marching through the water,
pursued by crocodiles, not daring to put down one's foot until assured by
sounding that it would reach something solid. Although the island grew
perceptibly nearer, our hungry neighbors did too, and at an increasing
pace. Still we were distancing them — for over many of the shoals they

■^.

':'!;

to the north-
;ver, cither to
aving in vain
re reluctantly
vorking at the
liich swarmed
their jaws.
n the natives
s jaws all hope
ocodiles which
n the writings
with by Trop-

nation of hor-
)ckets, pointed

rection, but in

ithin me as I,
to the nativfes'

at pouring off

their terrible
the water is
osed. How-
ot myself have
^as nothing left
islands, avoid-

osition headed
with his spear.
ugh the water,
ntil assured by
;he island grew
an increasing
he shoals they

tt^fflp

: S

(101)

102

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

f!-.

:f'

I';
i i ■

could not swim, and wading, for a crocodile, is a slow process — when,
without warning, and as quick as lightning, we felt the ground sink
beneath our feet, and we were all four precipitated simultaneously into the
swamp. Instinctively, my attendant and I raised our weapons and am-
munition high over our heads, for when we touched bottom — that is, a
fairly solid layer of vegetable matter — the water reached our arm-pits.
" We might as well give up," said I, in despair ; " this time we are lost!"
" Oh, don't give up yet. Sahib. We are so low that, with this head
,vind, the crocodiles cannot see us and will perhaps be unable to find us
at all. Let us cover our heads with • these marsh grasses and leaves and

'lie low.'"

Struggrliug- for Dear Life.

His advice was so evidently good that instead of a vain attempt to
reach the firm land with its inevitable exposure to the hungry eyes of our
terrible pursuers, we acquiesced at once. After several minutes of suspense,
the native raised himself slightly on a hummock, and glanced cautiously
toward the spot where we had last seen them. His facs cleared at once,
and he cheered us with —

" They have lost us, and have separated to search for us. Three are
going almost directly from this place, and one only knows enough to keep
on in the first course."

" And he is headed for us ? "

" In a straight line ! "

*'Then do not lose sight of him for an instant. With one enemy we
nr.ay b*" able to cope, and then there is a chance that he may lose the scent."

When I asked him again where the animal was — for I dared not raise
my own head to look — he replied that he was still coming straight toward
us, and I saw that a meeting was inevitable and made my preparations
accordingly.

I took my rifle and loaded it with an explosive ball.

"Now then," said I, "listen to my instructions. The native says the
crocodile is sure to find us. I shall let him get within ten yards of us,
and then I shall fire at whatever vulnerable part I can — his eye or his
oelly. Of course I may miss him, or the bullet may glance off his back
without wounding him."

The black's eyes rolled with horror.

"Then, without an instant's hesitation and yet without haste, you, who
must stand just behind me, must take my rifle and hand me my other gun
for a second shot. Do you understand ? "

" Perfectly."

ocess — when,
ground sink
ously into the
)ons and am-
)m — that is, a
our arm-pits,
we are lost!"
ith this head
ible to find us
nd leaves and

in attempt to
ry eyes of our
es of suspense,
:ed cautiously
eared at once,

is. Three are
lough to keep

Dne enemy we
ose the scent."
ared not raise
traight toward
preparations

ative says the
n yards of us,
lis eye or his
e off his back

iste, you, who
my other gun

THE FAMOUS ANTEDILUVIAN CROCODILE.

(108)

104

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

1 1

i !

»•:

"And I can depend on you?"
"Till death."

"We will try to make it less bad than /hat, and your courage shall meet
its reward."

"A Shudder of Horror Ran througrh Me."

I knew what he said was true, for the fellow had been devoted to me
3ver since I saved his life in the jungle when the gorilla grappled him.
md I felt I could rely upon him.

Raising myself as high as I could, I took a good look at the slowly
approaching monster, and, I confess, a shudder of horror ran through me
at his immense size. He was farther off than I expected, and evidently
quite unconscious of our neighborhood, into which he had come by chance,
following the raised path on which we ourselves had been travelling when
the tide overtook us. I immediately changed my plan of attack. I
ordered my attendant to wade off to the left so that the smoke from his
gun should not blow across me, and told him to fire at the crocodile and
try to wound him, if only slightly.

As this would make the latter raise his head and look round, I hoped
to get a shot at some vulnerable spot, and land an explosive ball where it
would do most good. I had hardly taken up my position, with rule lifted,
when my attendant's gun cracked sharp and clear, and I saw blood fly
from the eye of the crocodile, whose advance ceased immediately. I
could scarcely restrain a cry of joy, but catching sight of a yellow piece
of neck, I fired at it and shut my eyes. A great splash and the shouts of
triumph of the natives encouraged me to open them, and I found the suc-
cess of the shot greater than I had hoped.

A Hard Death.

The crocodile lay on his side on a little island with his neck blown
ojsen the entire length of the jaw, while the natives who made a break for
land without regard to me, capered round him. I called them, and they
helped me on shore to where the animal lay in his last agony — for these
brutes die as hard as a snake. He was a very large specimen, with a
head twice as long as it was broad, his eyes set close together above his
long snout, of which only the under jaw was movable. His front feet-
had five toes armed with claws, and his hind feet but four, and webbed to
allow him to swim easily. His whole body was shingled with plates of
a shell-like membrane that made him a fine coat of mail nearly bullet-
proof. Green on the back, his color gradually shaded off into yellow,
and he was a terrible foe to meet in the water, where we should not have
come off so well had not our good luck stood by us just as it did.

ge shall meet

levoted tc me
rrappled him

at the slowl>
,n through me

and evidently
>me by chance,
ravelling when

of attack, I
noke from his
; crocodile and

•ound, I hoped
/e ball where it
with rule lifted,

saw blood fly
Timediately. I
a yellow piece
d the shouts of

found the sue-

his neck blown
ade a break for
:hem, and they
ony — for these
ecimen, with a
:ther above his
His front feet
and webbed to
with plates oi
nearly bullet-
off into yellow,
ihould not have
is it did.

Ill':

PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATION.

105

I was duly thankful to regain the bank, which I had never expected to
touch again^ and had not the heart to blame the native who was respon-
sible for our narrow escape; but I resolved to place less reliance on the

natives in future. . . ^ ^ ^„

Ancient Crocodiles.

It is interesting to see what changes take place in the Animal Kingdom
with the lapse of ages. For instance, the early crocodile, the great
monster that lived thousands of years ago had larger jaws, more terribk
teeth, and a fiercer look than the crocodile of to-day. We present s
strikin"- illustration of this ancient monster reproduced from his remains
which have been found.

Returning to Livingstone, the season being far advanced, they deter-
mined to return to Kolobeng, Mr. Oswell generously volunteering to go
down to the Cape and bring up a boat for next season. Half the royal
premium for the encouragement of geographical science and discoveries
was awarded by the council of the Royal Geographical Society to Dr.
Livingstone for the discoveries he made on this journey.

Sechele, the Christian chief of the Bakwains, who was eager to assist
I him in reaching Sebituane, offered his services, and with him as a guide,
i accompanied by Mrs. Livingstone and their three children, he set
out, in April, 1850, taking a more easterly course than before. They
again reached the lake, but the greater number of the party being at-
tacked by fever, he was compelled to abandon his design of visiting
Sebituane. He here heard of the death of a young artist, Mr. Rider who
had shortly before visited the lake for the purpose of making sketches.

Huntinjf the Hippotamus.

The natives inhabiting the banks of the rivers falling into Lake N'gami
are famed for their skill in hunting the hippopotamus. In perfect silence
they approach in their light canoes, and plunge their sharp spears, with
thongs attached, into the back of one of the huge creatures, which dashes
down the stream, towing the canoe at a rapid rate. Thus the animal con-
tinues its course, the hunters holding on to the rope, till its strength is ex-
hausted when, other canoes coming up, it is speared to death.

Frequently, however, the hippopotamus turns on its assailants, bites the
canoe in two, and seizes one of them in its powerful jaws. When they
can manage to do so, they tow it into shallow water, and carrying the
line on shore, secure it to a tree, while they attack the infuriated animal
with their spears, till, sinking exhausted with its efforts, it becomes theif

prey.
Mr,

Oswell, who had arrived too late for the journey, spent the remain-

i>4

1
1

. - 1

i ■

1 ■■

1 ' 1

■m i

106

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

der of the season in hunting elephants, liberally presenting Dr. Living-
stone with the proceeds of his sport, for the outfit of his children.

The third journey was commenced in the spring of 185 1, when, rejoined
by Mr. Oswell, he set out once more, accompanied by Mrs. Livingstone
and their children.

First travelling north, and then to the north-east, through a region
covered with baobab-trees, abounding with springs, and inhabited by
Bushmen, they entered an arid and difficult country. Here, the supply
of water became exhausted, great anxiety was felt for the children, who
suffered greatly from thirst. At length a small stream, the Mababe, was
reached, running into a marsh, across which they had to make their way.
During the night they traversed a region infested by the tsetse, a fly not
much larger than the common house-fly, the bite of which destroys cattle
and horses.

A Terrible Pest.

It is remarkable that neither man, wild animals, nor even calves as lont^
as they continue to suck, suffer from the bite of this fearful pest. While
some districts arc infested by it, others in the immediate neighborhood
are free, and, as it does not bite at night, the only way the cattle of travel-
lers can escape is by passing quickly through the infested district before
the sun is up. Sometimes the natives lose the whole of their cattle by its
attacks, and travellers frequently have been deprived of all means of moving
with their wagons, in consequence of the death of their animals; some,
indeed, have perished from being unable to proceed.

Having reached the Chobc, a large river, which falls into the Zambesi,
leaving their attendants encamped with their cattle on an island, Living-
stone and his family, with Mr. Oswell, embarked in a canoe on the former
river, and proceeded down it about twenty miles to an island, where
Sebituane was waiting to rcscive them.

The chief, pleased with the confidence the doctor had shown in bring-
ing his wife and children, promised to take them to see his country, that
they might choose a spot where they might form a missionary station
He had been engaged in warfare nearly all his life, under varying fortunes,
with the neighboring savage tribes, and had at length established himself
n a secure position behind the Chobe and Lceambye, whose broad
streams guarded hini from the inroads of his enemies. He had now a
larger number of subjects and was richer in cattle than any chief in that
part of Africa.

The rivers and swamps, however, of the region produced fever, which
had proved fatal to many of his people. He had long been anxious for

i I

PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS.

107

ng Dr. Living-
children.
, when, rejoined
[rs. Livingstone

rough a region
id inhabited by
^ere, the supply
le children, who
lie Mababe, was
make their way.
; tsetse, a fly not
h destroys cattle

jn calves as long
ful pest. While
te neighborhood
e cattle of travel-
ed district before
heir cattle by its
means of moving
animals; some,

ito the Zambesi,
island, Living-
oe on the former
.n island, where

shown in bring-
lis country, that
ssionary station
-arying fortunes,
ablished himself
e, whose broad
He had now a
iny chief in that

;ed fever, which
leen anxious for

intercourse with Europeans, and showed every wish to encourage those
who now visited him to remain in his territory. Unhappily, a few days
after the arrival of his ^guests the chief was attacked with inflammation
of the lungs, originating in an old wound, and, having listened to the
gospel message delivered by the doctor, he in a short time breathed his
last.

Dr. Livingstone says that he was decidedly the best specimen of a
native chief he had ever met. His followers expressed the hope that the
English would be as friendly to his children as they intended to have
been to himself

The chieftainship devolved at his death on a daughter, who gave the

THE FINAL ATTACK ON A SAVAGE HIPPOPOTAMUS.

Ivisitors leave to travel through any part of the country they chose. They
laccordingly set out, and traversing a level district covered with wild date-
Itrees, and here and there large patches of swamp, for a distance of a
Ihundred and thirty miles to the north-east, they reached the banks of the

'^ambesi, in the centre of the continent.

From the prevalence of the tsetse, and the periodical rise of its nu-
Imerous streams causing malaria, Dr. Livingstone was compelled to
"abandon the intention he had formed of removing his own people thither

that they might be out of reach of their savage neighbors, the Dutch

Boers. It was, however, he at once saw, the key of Southern and Central

\fnca.

The magnificent stream, on the bank of which he now stood, flows

108

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

' I

hundreds of miles east to the Indian Ocean — a mighty artery supplying
life to the teeming population of that part of Africa. He therefore deter-
mined to send his wife and children to England, and to return himself
and spend two or three years in the new region he had discovered, in the
hope of evangelizing the pcopU".

He accordingly returned to Kolobeng, and then set out with his family
a journey of a thousand miles, to Cape Town. Having seen them aboard
a homeward bound ship, he again turned his face northward, June, 1852

The Explorer'.s House Robbed.
Having reached Kuruman, he was there detained by the breaking of a
watron-wheel. Durin;^ that time the Dutch Boers attacked his friends,
the Bakwains, carrying off a nt mber of them into slavery, the only excuse
the white men had being that Sechele was getting too saucy — in reality
because he would not prevent the English traders from passing through
his territory to the northward. The Dutch plundered Livingstone's
house, and carried off the wagons of the chief and that of a trader who
was stopping in the place. Livingstone therefore found great difficulty
in obtaining guides and servants to proceed northward. Poor Sechele
set out for Cape Town, intending as he said, to lay his complaint before
the Queen of England, but was compelled by want of funds to return to
his own country, where he devoted himself to the evangelization of his
people.

Parting with the chief, Livingstone, giving the Boers a wide berth, pro-
ceeded across the desert to Linyanti, the capital of the Makololo, where
he had visited the Chief Sebituane in 185 1. The whole population,
amounting to nearly seven thousand souls, turned out to welcome him.
He found that the princess had abdicated in favor of her brother Se-
keletu, who received him with the greatest cordiality. The young king,
then only nineteen, exclaimed : " I have now got another father instead
of Sebituane." The people shared this feeling, believing that by the
residence of a missionary among them they would obtain some important
benefits, though of the real character of the blessing they might receive
they were totally ignorant.

A rival of the young king existed in the person of a cousin, Mpepc,
who had been appointed by the late king chief over a portion of
his subjects, but whose ambition made him aim at the command of the
whole.

Half-caste Portuguese slave-traders had made their way to Linyanti,
and one, who pretended to be an important person, was carried about in
a hammock slung between two poles, which looking like a bag, the

rtcry supplying
therefore detcr-
) return himself
scovered, in the

t with his family p
ien them aboard
ard, June, 1852

le breaking of a
eked his friends,
, the only excuse
;aucy — in reality
passing through
:d Livingstone's

of a trader who
1 great difficulty
d. Poor Sechele
complaint before
lunds to return to .

gelization of his

I wide berth, pro-
Makololo, where
hole population,
;o welcome him,

her brother Se-
|The young king,
[ler father instead
ing that by the
some important

;y might receive

cousin, Mpepc, |.
ler a portion of
command of the

way to Linyanti,
1 carried about in
like a bag, the

GREAT BAOBAB TREE OF AFRICA.

(109)

f i

■ ' 1

'^- ^ f

' : :'

110

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

M-

natives called him " the father of the bag." Mpepe favored these scoun-
drels, as he hoped by their means to succeed in his rebellion. The
arrival of Livingstone, however, somewhat dampened their hopes.

Liviugrstoue Saves a Chief Vroiu an Assassin.

As the chief object of the doctor was to select a spot for a settlement, he
ascended, accompanied by Sekeletu, the great river Zambesi, which had
been discovered in the year 1851. The doctor had taught the Makololo
to ride on their oxen, which they had never before done, though, havin^j
neither saddles or bridles, they constantly fell off.

He and Sekeletu were riding along side by side, when they encoun-
tered Mpepe, who, as soon as he saw them, ran towards the chief with
his axe uplifted ; but Sekeletu, galloping on, escaped him. On their
arrival at their camp, while the chief and the doctor were sitting tc
gcther, Mpepe appeared, his men keeping hold of their arms. At that
moment the rebel entered ; but the doctor, unconsciously covering
Sekeletu's body, saved him from the assassin's blow. His cousin's inten-
tion having been revealed to Sekeletu, that night Mpepe was dragged
off from his fire and speared. So quietly was the deed done that
Livingstone heard nothing of it till the next morning.

Livingstone was soon after this attacked by fever, when his hosts
exhibited the interest they felt for him by paying him every attention in
their power. His own remedies of a wet sheet and quinine were more
successful than the smoke and vapor baths employed by the natives.

It is important that the position of Linyanti should be noted, as from

it Livingstone set out on his journey westward to Loanda, on the West

Coast, and, returning to it, commenced from thence that adventurous

expedition to the East Coast, which resulted in so many interesting

discoveries,

A Picturesque Cuinpauy.

Having recovered from his fever, Livingstone, accompanied by Sekeletu,
and about one hundred and sixty attendants, mostly young men, asso-
ciates of the chief, set out for Sesheke. The intermediate country was
perfectly flat, except patches elevated a few feet only above the sur-
rounding level. There were also numerous mounds, the work of ants,
which are literally gigantic structures, and often as tall as wild date trees
at their full height.

The party looked exceedingly picturesque as, the ostrich feathers of the
men waving in the air, they wound in a long line in and out among the
mounds. Some wore red tunics or variously-colored prints, and their
heads were adorned with the white ends of ox tails or caps made of lions'

*■%

red these scoun-
rebellion. The
;ir hopes.

sin.

- a settlement, he
ibesi, which had
ht the Makololo
, though, having

en they encoun-

Is the chief with

him. On their

were sitting tc-

- arms. At that

ciously covering

[is cousin's intcn-

epe was drag^^ed

deed done that

when his hosts
very attention in
linine were more

the natives.
)e noted, as from

da, on the West
that adventurous

many interesting

nied by Sekeletu,
^oung men, asso-
iate country was
above the sur-
he work of ants,
s wild date trees

Ich feathers of the
id out among the
prints, and their ^
Lps made of lions'

(111)

irj

WONDERS OK THP: TROPICS.

U i

t! 1 1

manes. The nobles walked with a small club of rhinoceros horn in their
hands, their servants carry-n^^ their shields; while the ordinary men bore
burdens, and the battle-axe men, who had their shields on their arms,
were employed as messengers, often having to run an immense distance.

The Makololo possess numerous cattle, and the chief, having to fetd
his followers, either selected oxen from his own stock or received them
from the head men of the villages through which they passed, as tribute

Reaching the village of Katonga on the banks of the Leeambye, som.
time was spent there in collecting canoes. During this delay Living
stone visited the country to the north of the village, where he saw enor-
mous numbers of buffaloes, zebras, elans, and a beautiful small antelope.
He was enabled, by this hunting expedition, to supply his companions
with an abundance of food.

At length, a sufficient number of canoes being collected, they com-
menced the ascent of the river. His own canoe had six paddles, while
that of the chief had ten. They paddled standing upright, and kept
stroke with great exactness. Being fiat-bottomed, they can float in \ cry
shallow water. The fleet consisted altogether of thirty-three canoes and
one hundred and sixty men.

*♦ Man Overboanl ! **

Most of the Makololo are unable to swim, and a canoe being upset,
one of the party, an old doctor, was lost, while the Barotse canoe-men
easily save themselves by swimming.

Numerous villages were seen on both banks of the river, the inhabitants
of which are expert hunters of the hippopotamus, and are excellent handi-
craftmen. They manufacture wooden bowls with neat lids, and show
much taste in carving stools. Some make neat baskets, a^d others excel in
pottery and iron. On their arrival at the town of the lather of Mpope,
who had instigated his son to rebellion, two of his chief councilors were
led forth and tossed into the river.

Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, the tribe inhabiting the district in
which they now were, is built on an artificially-constructed mound, as are
many other villages of that region, to raise them above the overflowing
river. From finding no trace of European names among them, Livingstone
was convinced that the country had not before been visited by white men;
whereas, after he had come among them, great numbers of children were
named after his own boy, while others were called Horse, Gun, Wagon, etc.

Roarings Lions.

Here again numbers of large game were seen. Eighty-one buffaloes
defiled in slow procession before the fire of the travellers one evening

! horn in their
lary men bore
)n their arms,
icnsc distance,
having to kcA
received them
sed, as tribute
ieambyc, soin.
delay Living'
,' he saw enor-
small antelope.
lis companicins

ted, they com-
paddles, while
ight, and kept
m float in very
iree canoes and

oe being upset,
)tse canoe-men

the inhabitants
xcellent handi-
lids, and show
1 others excel in
ther of Mpepe,
lounciiors were

the district in

mound, as are

the overflowing

;m, Livingstone

I by white men;

children were

in, Wagon, etc.

-one buflaloes
Irs one evening

(113)

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

: Ji:l':-

i ' ■'. 1 i

if il;,

I if '-

; :-M^:::

■within gunshot, and herds of splendid elans stood at two hundred yards"
distance, without shom'ng signs of fear. Lions, too, approached and
roared at them. One night, as they were sleeping on the summit of a*
large sandbank, a lion appeared on the opposite shore, who amused him-
self for hours by roaring as loudly as he could. The river was too broad
for a ball to reach him, and he walked off without suffering for his imper-
tinence. Livingstone* saw two as tall as common donkeys, their manes
making their bodies appear of still greater size.

Lions are in the habit of preying upon cattle, and the natives have ic
contrive all mahner of ways for protecting their herds. These formida*
ble beasts have been known to carry off young cattle as large as
themselves.

On their journey they visited the town of Ma-Sekeletu, or the Mother

of Sekelctu, where, ar it was the first visit the king had paid to this part of

his dominions, he was received with every appearance of joy. A grand

dance was got up, the men moving in a circle, with spears and small

battle-axes in their hands, roaring at the loudest pitch of their voices.

The arms and head were thrown about in every direction, the roaring

being kept up with the utmost vigor, while the dust ascended in clouds

around them.

Wild Men of the Jiiii{>^le.

Returning down the stream at a rapid rate, they quickly reached
Linyanti. During this nine weeks' tour, Dr. Livingstone had been in
closer contact with heathenism than ever before, and though, including
the chief, everyone had been as attentive as possible, yet the dancing,
roaring, singing, jesting, quarreling, added to the murdering propensities
of these children of nature was painful in the extreme.

The chief and his followers, agreeing that the object of Livingstone's
proposed expedition to the west was most desirable, took great pains to
assist him in the undertaking. A band of twenty-seven men was ap-
pointed to accompany him by the chief's command, whose eager desire
was to obtain a free and profitable trade with the white men, and this,
Livingstone was convinced, was likely to lead to their ultirnate elevation
and improvement. Three men whom he had brought from Kurumar?
having suffered greatly from fever, he sent them back with Fleming, &
trader, who had followed his footsteps. His new attendants he named
Zambesians, for there were only two Makololo nien — the rest consisting
of Barotse, Batoka, and other tribes. His wagon and remaining goods
he committed to the charge of the Makololo, who took all the articles
into their huts. He carried only a rifle and a double-barrelled smooth-

hundred yards'
pproached and
he summit of a*
lo amused him-
r was too broad
g for his imper-
ys, their manes

natives have to
These formida«
tie as large as

1, or the Mother
d to this part of

joy, A grand
pears and small

of their voices,
on, the roaring
snded in clouds

juickly reached
le had been in
ough, including
^et the dancing,
ing propensities

Df Livingstone's

great pains to

en men was ap-

Dse eager desire

; men, and this,

imate elevation

from Kurumai

^vith Fleming, &

dants he named

i rest consisting

miaining goods

: all the articles

relied smooth-

116

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

bore gun for himself, and gave three muskets to his people, by means ol
which he hoped game might be obtained for their support.

Wishing also to save his followers from having to carry heavy loads,
he took for his own support but a few biscuits and a pound of tea and
sugar, about twenty ol coffee, a small tin canister with some spare shirting,
trousers, and shoes, another for medicines, and a third for books, while a
fourth contained a magic lantern. His ammunition was distributed in
portions among the whole luggage, that, should an accident occur to one,
the rest might be preserved. His camp equipage consisted of a gipsy
tent, a sheep-skin mantle, and a horse-rug as a bed, as he had always
found that the chief art of successful travelling consisted in taking as few
impediments as possible. His sextant, artificial horizon, thermometer,
and compasses were carried apart.

Carry as little as he would, Livingstone found that he was compelled
to take more baggage than could be conveniently transported through
African forests and jungles. Some people in civilized countries when
they travel appear to take everything they need and everything they do
not need ; it cannot be said of our great explorer, however, that he took
anything which was not needed. His box of medicines was, of course,
a constant companion ; we shall see farther on that this box was lost or
stolen and that the exr :dition was left entirely without medical remedies.
Often large parts of the baggage would have to be exchanged with the
natives for food, or paid out as tribute to unfriendly chiefs. This was
one of the unpleasant experiences and severe hardships which the £jreat
traveller encountered.

It will be seen through all these journeys that Livingstone was per-
fectly willing to share the fate of his men. He asked nothing for him-
self better than Ire was willing to grant for them. If they slept on the
hard ground, he was willing to sleep there too ; if they waded rivers, he
was willing to go in as deep as they went; if they had unwholesome
food, and little of it, he was ready to divide with them his last cri.st.
By his own self-sacrificing and generous spirit he attached himself
strongly to his followers. This was one great secret of his magnificent
achievements in the Dark Continent

:, by means oi

y heavy loads,
und of tea and
: spare shirting,
books, while a
; distributed in
nt occur to one,
;ted of a gipsy
he had always
n taking as few
i, thermometer,

was compelled
ported through
countries when
ything they do
er, that he took
was, of course,
box was lost or
edical remedies,
langpd with the
liefs. This was
vhich the ^reat

Tstone was per-
sthing for him-
ley slept on the

aded rivers, he
unwholesome

his last cri.st.

tached himself

his magnificent

CHAPTER VI.
STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

Dangers of River Navigation— Luxuriant Wili Fruits— Skillful Management of Canoes
by Natives— Magnificent Scenery— Man Seized by a Crocodile— Beautiful Flov/ers
and Wild Honey— Strapping Chieftainess Smeared with Fat and Red Ochre —
Pompous Chief— Curious Piano— Portuguese Traders— Warm Reception to the
Explorers— Lifting off Roofs of Houses to Cover the Travellers— A Chief who Killed
His Subjects for Amusement— Remarkable Custom for Cementing Friendship —
Tricksters who Want Money— Livingstone Suffers from Fever— Savage Attack
upon the Expedition— Using Charms and Cupping for Sickness— Black Corporal
for an Escort— Beautiful Country Going to Waste— Vast Herds of Cattle— An
Ornamental Garden— Natives A„. on ished by Strange Sightr— Generous Gifts of
Jolly Tars— "Stones that Burn"— An Attractive Town— The Irrepressible Don-
)fey_Strange Belief in Evil Spirits— Grotesque Head-dresses— Fine Sport with
the Gun— The Expedition Travelling in Small Canoes— Livingstone Charged by
a Buffalo— Noisy Welcome to the Explorers— Troops of Elephants.

N the nth of November, 1853, accompanied by the chief and his
principal men to see him off, Livingstone left and embarked on
the Chobe. The chief danger in navigating this river is from the
bachelor hippopotami who have been expelled their herd, and,
whose tempers being soured, the canoes are frequently upset by them.
One of these misanthropes chased some of his men, and ran after them
on shore with considerable speed. The banks of the river were clothed
with trees, among them acacias and evergreens, from the pink-colored
specimens of which a pleasant acid drink is obtained.

Leaving the Chobe, they entered the Leeambye, up which they pro-
ceeded at a somewhat slow rate, as they had to wait at different villages
for supplies of food. Several varieties of wild fruit were presented to
them. The crews of the canoes worked admirably, being always in good
humor, and, on any danger threatening, immediately leaped overboard
to prevent them coming broadside to the stream, or being caught by
eddies, or dashed against the rocks. Birds, fish, iguanas, and hippo-
potami abounded ; indeed the whole river teemed with life.

On November 30th, the Gonye Falls were reached. No rain having
fallen, it was excessively hot. They usually got up at dawn — about five
in the morning — coffee was taken and the canoes loaded, the first two
hours being the most pleasant part of the day's sail. The Barotse,
being a tribe of boatmen, managed their canoes admirably.

(117)

I
!iT!

Iv^f

h '

!~ a.

118

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

At about eleven they landed to lunch. After an hour's rest they
embarked, the doctor with an umbrella overhead. Sometimes they
reached a sleeping-place two hours before sunset. Coffee was again
served out, with coarse bread made of maize meal, or Indian corn,
unless some animal had been killed, when a potful of flesh was boiled.
The canoes were carried beyond the falls, slung on poles placed on men's
shoulders. Here as elsewhere the doctor exhibited his magic lantern,
j^ceatly to the delight of the people.

Beautiftil Scenery*
Nothing could be more lovely than the scenery of the falls. The water
rushes through a fissure and, being confined below by a space not more
than a hundred yards wide, goes rolling over and over in great masses,
amid which the most expert swimmer can in vain make way.

The doctor was able to put a stop to an intended fight between the
inhabitants of two villages. Several volunteers offered to join him, but
his followers determined to adhere to the orders of Seketelu, and refused
all other companions. They were treated most liberally by the inhabi-
tants of all the villages, who presented them with more oxen, milk and
meal than they could stow away. Entering the Leeambye, ""^.ivingstone
proceeded up that stream in his canoe, while his oxen and a portion of
his men continued their journey along its banks.

The rain had fallen, and nature had put on her gayest apparel ; flowers
of great beauty and curious forms grew everywhere, many of the forest
trees having palmated leaves, the trunks being covered with lichens,
while magnificent ferns were seen in all the moister situations. In the
cool morning the welkin rang with the singing of birds, and the ground
swarmed with insect life.

Coinbat witli a Monstrous Crocodile.
Crocodiles were in prodigious numbers, children and calves being
constantly carried off by them. One of his men was seized, but, retaining
his presence of mind when dragged to the bottom^ he struck the monster
with his javelin and escaped, bearing the marks of t) e reptile's teeth on
his thigh. The doctor's men had never before used firearms, and, proving
bad shots, came to him for " gun medicine " to enable them to shoot
better As he was afraid of their exhausting his supply of powder he wai
compelled to act as sportsman for the party.

Leaving Leeambye, he proceeded up the Leeba. Beautiful flowers
and abundance of wild honey was found on its shores, and large num-
bers of young crocodiles were seen sunning themselves on the sandbanks
with their parents.

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

119

(ur's rest they
>metimes they
fee was again
• Indian corn,
;sh was boiled,
laced on men's
magic lantern.

lis. The water
Dace not more
great masses,
ay.

it between the
o join him, but
lu, and refused
by the inhabi-
oxen, milk and
'•e, ""^.ivingstone
id a portion of

)parel ; flowers

of the forest

with lichens,

tions. In the

id the ground

calves being
but, retaining
k the monster
tile's teeth on
s, and, proving
hem to shoot
)owder, he was,

lutiful flowers
d larj^e num-
:he sandbanks

They had now reached the Balonda country, and received a visit from
A chieftainess, Manenko, a tall strapping woman covered with ornamenis

''iiiiiiw

■P0::^k>

■'^'■''''''.■i-!.'i':^'i!'5'aJ-!.'':':ii:'':;;^^

■ NT ■•)''',

III* riiw"

Jl:i||iliiiiii!li.ni

and smeared over with fat and red ochre as a protection a-ainst th
ueather. She invited them to visit her uncle Shinti, the chief of tht

■> f

120

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i I

country. They set out in the midst of a heavy drizzling mist; on, how-
ever, the lady went, in the lightest marching order. The doctor enquired
why she did not clothe herself during the rain; but it appeared that she
did not consider it proper for a chief to appear effeminate. The men, in
admiration of her pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked:
*' Manenko is a soldier." Some of the people in her train carried shieldf
composed of reeds, of a square form, five feet long and three broad.
With these, and armed with broadswords and quivers full of iron-headed;
arrows, they looked somewhat ferocious, but are in reality not noted for

their courage.

A Pompous Chief.

The doctor was glad when at length the chieftainess halted on the
banks of a stream, and preparations were made for the night's lodging.
After detaining them several days, she accompanied them on foot to
Shinti's town. The chief's place of audience was ornamented by two
graceful banyan trees, beneath one of which he sat on a sort of throne
covered with a leopard-skin. He wore a checked shirt and a kilt of
scarlet baize, edged with green, numerous ornaments covering his arms
and legs, while on his head was a helmet of beads, crowned with large
goose feathers. At his side sat three lads with quivers full of arrows
over their shoulders.

Livingstone took his seat under the shade of another tree opposite to
the chief, while the spokesman of the party, who had accompanied them,
in a loud voice, walking backwards and forwards, gave an account of the
doctor and his connection with the Makololo. Behind the chief sat a
hundred women clothed in red baize, while his wife was sitting in front
of him. Between the speeches the ladies burst forth into a sort of plain-
tive ditty.

Singriilar Piano.

The party was entertained by a band of musicians, consisting of three
drummers and four performers on the marimba, a species of piano. It
consists of two bars of wood placed side by side ; across these are fixed
fifteen wooden keys, each two or three inches broad and about eighteen
long, their thickness being regulated by the deepness of the note required.
Each of the keys has a calabash below it, the upper portion of which,
being cut off to hold the bars, they form hollow sounding-boards to the
keys. These are also of different sizes according to the notes required.
The keys are struck by small drum sticks to produce the sound. The
Portuguese have imitated the marimba^ and use it in their dances in
Angola.

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

121

The women in this country are treated with more respect by the men
than in other parts of Africa. A party of Mambari, with two native
Portuguese traders, had come up to obtain slaves, and, while Dr. Living-
stone was residing with Shinti, some young children were kidnapped,
evidently to be sold to them.

The day before he was to recommence his journey, the doctor received
a visit in his tent from Shinti, who, as a mark of his friendship, presented
him with a shell on which he set the greatest value, observing : "There,
now you have a proof of my affection." These shells, as marks of dis-
tinction, are so highly valued that for two of them a slave may be bought,
and five will buy an elephant's tusk worth fifty dollars. The old
chief had provided a guide, Int^mese, to conduct them to the territory of

THE MARIMBA, OR AFRICAN PIANO.

the next chiei', Katema. He also gave an abundant supply of food, and
wished them a prosperous journey. Livingstone again started on the 26th
of January, Shinti sending eight men to assist in carrying his luggage.
He had now to quit the canoes and to proceed on ox-back, taking a
northerly direction.

He and his party received the same kind treatment in the country at '
before, the villagers, by command of their chiefs, presenting them with an'
abundance of food. They found English cotton cloth more eageily
enquired after than beads and ornaments. On arriving at a village the
inhabitants lifted off the roofs of some cf their huts, and brought them
to the camp, to save the men the tiouble of booth-making. On starting
again the villagers were left to replace them at theii leisure, no payment

122

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

being expected. Heavy rains now came on, and the doctor and his party
were continually wet to the skin.

Polite as the people were, they were still fearful savages. Messengers
arrived from the neighboring town to announce the death of their chief,
Matiamvo. That individual had been addicted to running a-muck
through his capital and beheading any one he met, till he had a large
heap of human heads in front of his hut. Men were also slaughtered
occasionally, whenever the chief wanted part of a body to perform cer-
tain charms.

The Balonda appear to have some belief in the existence of the soul,
and a greater feeling of reverence in their composition than the tribes to
the eastward. Among their customs they have a remarkable one. Those
who take it into their heads to become friends, cement their friendship.
Taking their seats opposite one to the other, with a vessel of beer Ly the
side of each, they clasp hands. They then make cuts on their clasped
hands, the pits of their stomachs, their foreheads, and right cheeks. The
point of a blade of grass is then pressed against the cuts, and afterwards
each man washes it in his own pot of beer ; exchanging pots, the contents
are drunk, so that each man drinks the blood of the other. Thus they
consider that they become blood relations and are bound in every possi-
ble way to assist each other. These people were greatly surprised at the
liberty enjoyed by the Makololo.

Playiujf Tricks for Money.

The travellers paid a visit to Katema, the chief of the district, who
received them dressed in a snuff-brown coat, with a helmet of beads and
feathers on his head, and in his hand a number of tails of ^w/j bound
together. He also sent some of his men to accompany them on their
journey. The rains continued, and the doctor suffered much from having
to sleep on the wet ground. Having reached the latitude of Loanda,
Livingstone now directed his course to the westward. On the 4th of
March he reached the outskirts of the territory of the Chiboque.

As he approached the more civilized settlements, he found the habits
jf the people changed much for the worse ; tricks of all sorts were played
to detain him and obtain tribute; the guides also tried in every way to
impose on him. Even his Makololo expressed their sorrow at seeing; so
beautiful a country ill cultivated and destitute of cattle.

He was compelled to sell one of his riding oxen for food, as none could
be obtained. The Chiboque coming round in great numbers, their chief
demanded tribute, and one of their number made a charge at Livingstone,
hut quickly retreated on having the muzzle of the traveller's gun pointed

I m

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

123

at his head. The chief and his councillors, however, consenting to sit
down on the ground, the Makololo, well drilled, surrounded them, and
thus got them completely in their power. A mutiny, too, broke out
among his own people, who complained of want of food ; but it was sup-
pressed by the appearance of the doctor with a double-barrelled pistol
in his hand. They never afterwards gave him any trouble.

Similar demands for payment to allow him to pass through the country

were made by other chiefs, his faithful Makololo giving up their orna-

nents, as he had done nearly all the beads and shirts in his possession.

The most extortionate of these chiefs was loaga Panza, whose sons, after

STAMPEDE OF SOUTH AFRICAN GNUS.

receiving payment for acting as guides, deserted him. All this time
Livingstone was suffering daily from rhe attacks of *"'"vci', which rendered
him excessively weak, so that he could scarcely sit upon his ox.

The country appeared fertile and full of small villages, and the soil is
30 rich that little labor is required for its cultivation. It is, however, the
chief district whence slaves are obtained, and a feeling of insecurity was
evident amongst the inhabitants. A demand was now made by each
chief for a man, an ox, or a tusk as a tribute. The first, was of course,
refused, but nearly all the remainder of the traveller's property had to be
thus paid away.

a 1

124

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

On the 4th of April they reached the banks of the Quango, here one
hundred and fifty yards wide. The chief of the district — a young man, who
wore his hair curiously formed into the shape of a cone, bound round
with white thread — on their refusing to pay him an extortionate demand,
ordered his people not to ferry them across, and opened fire on them.
At this juncture a half-caste Portuguese, a sergeant of militia, Cypriano
Di Abrcu, arrived, and, obtaining ferrymen, they crossed over into the
territory of the Bangala, who are subject to the Portuguese. Tiiey had
some time before rebelled, and troops were now stationed among them,
Cypriano being in command of a party of men. Next morning he pro-
vided a delicious breakfast for his guest, and fed the Makololo with
pumpkins and maize, while he supplied them with farina for their journey
to Kasenge, without even hinting at payment.

The natives, though they long have h«d intercourse with the Portu-
guese, are ignorant and superstitious in the extreme. Many parts of the
country are low and marshy, and they suffer greatly from fever. Of the
use of medicine they have no notion, their only remedies being charms
and cupping. The latter operation is performed with a small horn,
which has a little hole in the upper end. The broad end is placed on the
flesh, when the operator sucks througli the hole; as the flesh rises, he
gashes it with a knife, then replaces the horn and sucks again, till finally
he introduces a piece of wax into his mouth, to stop up the hole, when
the horn is left to allow the blood to gush into it.

It took the travellers four days to reach Kasenge, a town inhabited by
about forty Portuguese traders and their servants. Though told by the
doctor that he was a Protestant minister, they treated him with the
greatest kindness and hospitality.

A Black Corporal for au £scort.

Here the Makololo sold Sekeletu's tusks, obtaining much better prices
than they would have done from the Cape traders, forgetting, however,
that their value was greatly increased by the distance they had been
brought.

The Makololo here expressed their fears, from what they had heard,
that they were about to be led down to the sea-coast to be sold, but when
Livingstone asked them if he had ever deceived them, and that he would
assure them of their safety, they agreed to accompany him. The mer-
chants of Kasenge treated the doctor with the most disinterested kind-
ness, and furnished him with letters to their friends at Loanda.

He was escorted by a black corporal of militia, who was carried in a
hammock by his slaves. He could both read and write, and was

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

125

ngo, here one
ing man, who
bound round
nate demand,
ire on them,
itia, Cypriano
3ver into the
e. Tliey had
among them,
ning he pro-
[akololo with
their journey

th the Portu-
y parts of the
ever. Of the
aeing charms
L small horn,

Dlaced on the
lesh rises, he
lin, till nnally

e hole, when

inhabited by
\\ told by the
lim with the

better prices

|ng, however,

ly had been

had heard^
fid, but when
lat he would
The mer-
Ir^sted kind-
la.

I carried in a
and was

cleanly in all his ways; he was considerate r' - his young slaves, and
walked most of the way, only getting into his ha iock on approaching

C/l

2
W

Z
>

a village, for the sake of keeping up his dignity. He, however, had the
usual vices of African guides, and did not fail to cheat those he was sent
to protect.

fT •

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•120

ii|

ill

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WONDKRS OF THE TROPICS.

Sleeping-places were erected on the road about ten miles apart, as
there is a constant stream of people going to and coming from the coast.
Goods arc either carried on the head or on one shoulder, in a sort of
basket, supported by two poles five or six feet long. When the carrier
feels tired and halts, he plants them on the ground, allowing his burden
to rest against a tree, so that he has not to lift it up from the ground tc
the level of his head. On arriving at a sleeping-place, the sheds were
immediately taken possession of by the first comers, those arriving lan':
having to make huts with long grass for themselves. Women might
then be seen coming from their villages with baskets of manioc meal
yams, garlic, and other roots for sale. As "Livingstone had supplied
himself with calico at Kasenge, he was able to purchase what was
necessary.

The district of Ambaca, through which he now passed, was excessively
fertile. Large numbers of cattle exist on its pastures, which are well
watered by flowing streams, while lofty mountains rise in the distance.
It is said to contain forty thousand souls. The doctor was delighted with
Golcongo Alto, a magnificent district — the hills bedecked with trcL's of
various hues, the graceful oil-yielding palm towering above them. Here
the commandant. Lieutenant Castro, received him in a way that won the
doctor's affectionate regard. He calculated that this district has a popu-
lation of a hundred and four thousand. The lieutenant regretted, as
does every person of intelligence, the neglect with which this magnificent
country has been treated.

Natives Astonished by Strange Sifjlits.

As they proceeded, they passed streams with cascades, on which mills
might easily be formed ; but here numbers of carpenters were converting
the lofty trees which grew around into planks, by splitting them with
wedges. At Trombeta the commandant had his garden ornamented with
rows of trees, with pineapples and flowers growing between them. A few
years ago he purchased an estate for eighty dollars, on which he had now
a coffee plantation and all sorts of fruit trees and grape-vines, beside
grain and vegetables growing, as also a cotton plantation.

As they approached the sea the Makololo gazed at it, spreading ouJ
before them, with feelings of awe, having before believed that the whole
vvorld was one extended plain. They again showed their fears that
they might be kidnapped, but Livingstone reassured them, telling them
that as they had stood by each other hitherto, so they would do to the last.

On the 31st of May they descended a declivity leading to the city of
Loanda, where Livingstone was warmly welcomed by Mr. Gabriel, the

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

V27

British commissioner. Sccirifj him so ill, he benevolently offered the
doctor his bed. "Never shall I forget," says Livingstone, "the luxu-
rious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good English couch,
after for six months sleeping on the ground." It took many days how-
f^ver, before the doctor recovered from the exposure and fatigue he had

CHARMING AWAY EVIL SPIRITS.

endured. All that time he was watched over with the most generous
sympathy by his kind host. The Portuguese Bishop of Angola, and
numerous other gentlemen, called on him and tendered their services.

Her Majesty's ship "Polyphemus" coming in, the surgeon, Mr.
Coclw'in, afforded him the medical assistance he so much required, and

128

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

t: I

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1 I

soon he was suficiently recovered to call on the bishop, attended by his
Makololo followers. They had all been dressed in new robes of striped
cotton cloth, and red caps, presented Hv Mr, Gabriel. The bishop,
acting as head of the provisional government, received them in form, and
gave them permission to come to Loanda and trade as often as they
wished, with which ihey were greatly pleased.

The Makololo gazed with astonishment at all they witnessed, the
large stone houses and churches esp<?cially, never before having seen a
building larger than a Jut The commanders of the " Pluto " and "Phil-
omel," which came into the harbor, invited them on board. Knowing
their fears, Livingstone told them that no one need go should they en-
tertain the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly the whole party went.
a Jolly Tars and Africau Natives.

Going forward amongst the men, they were^received much the same as
the Makololo would have received them, the jolly tars handing them a
share of the bread and beef they had for dinner. They were allowed to
fire off a cannon, at which they were greatly pleased. This visit had a
most beneficial effect, as it raised Livingstone still more highly than ever
in the opinion of the natives.

During August the doctor was again attacked by a severe fit of fever.
. Kis men, while he was unable to attend to them, employed themselves in
going into the country and cutting firewood, which they sold to the in-
habitants of the town. Mr. Gabriel also found them employment in
unloading a collier, at bix-pence a day. They continued at this work for
upwar ' > of a month, astonished at the vast amount of " stones that bu n "
which were taken out of her. With the money thus obtained they pur-
chased clothing, beads, and ether articles to carry home with them. In
selecting calicoes they were well able to judge of the best, and chose
such pieces as appeared the strongest, without reference to color.

Saint Paul de Loanda, once a considerable city, has now fallen greatly
into decay. There are, however, many large stone houses, and the palace
of the governor; and the government offices, are substantial structures.
Trees are planted throughout the town for the sake of shade. Though
the dwellings of the native inhabitants are composed merely of wattle and
daub, from the sea they present an imposing appearance.

Though at first the government lost its chief revenue from the sup-
pression of the slave trade, it has again gradually increased by the lawful
commerce now carried on by its merchants The officers are, however,
so badly paid that they are compelled to engage in mercantile pursuits,
and some attempt by bribes to assist the slave-dealers.

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

129

From the kind and generous treatment Livingstone received from the
Portuguese, they rose deservedly high in his estimation. **

He now prepared for his departure. The merchants sent a present to
Sekeletu, consisting of specimens of all their articles of trade and two
donkeys, that the breed might be introduced into his country, as the
venomous fly called the tsetse cannot kill those beasts of burden. The
doctor was also furnished with letters of recommendation to the Portu-
guese authorities in Eastern Africa. The bishop likewise furnished hirr
with twenty carriers, and sent forward orders to the commandants of the
districts to the east to render him every assistance. He supplied himself
with ammunition, and beads, and a stock of cloth, and he gave each of
his men a musket. He had also purchased a horse for Sekeletu. His
friends of the
"Philomel'
fitted him out
also with a new
tent, and, on the
20th of Septem-
ber, 1854, he
and his party
left Loanda, es-
corted by Mr.
Gabriel, who,
from his un-
wearied atten-
tions and liber-
ality to his men,
had become en-
deared to all
their hearts.

Passing round by the sea, he ascended the Rivei- Bengo to IcoUo-i-
Bengo, once the residence of a native king. While Mr, Gabriel returned
to Loanda, Dr. Livingstone and his party proceeded to Golcongo Alto,
where he left some of his men to rest, while he. took an excursion to
Kasenge, celebrated for its coffee plantations. On his return he found
several of them suffering from fever, while one of them had gone out of
his mind, but in short time recovered.

He had thus an opportunity of watching the workings of slavery.
The moment their master was ill, the slaves ate up everything on which
they could lay their hands, till the doctor himself could scarcely obtain

SINGULAR MODE OF DRESSING THE HAIR.

130

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

m 'i

even bread and butter. Here Sekeletu's horse was seized with inflamma-
tionT'and the poor animal afterwards died on its journey. On the 28th
of February they reached the banks of the Quango, where they were
again received by Cy;""'iano.

The colored population of Angola are sunk in the grossest superstition.
They fancy themselves completely in the power of spirits, and are con-
stantly deprecating tlieir wrath. A chief, named Gantio, had lately been
a'^cused of witchcraft, and, being killed by the ordeal, his body was
thrown into the river.

Heavy payment was demanded by the ferrymen for crossing in their
wretched canoes ; but the cattle and donkeys had to swim across.
Avoiding their friend with the comical head-dress, they made their
way to the camp o( some Ambakistas, or half-caste Portuguese, who
had gone across to trade in wax. They are famed for their love of
leat'iimg, and are keen traders, and, writing a peculiarly fine hand,
are generally employed as clerks, sometimes being called the Jews of
Angola.

Faiita.stic Hcud-dresscs.

The travellers were now in the country of the Bishinji, possessing the
lowest negro physiognomy. At a village where they halted, they were
attacked by the head man, who had been struck by one of the Makololo
on their previous visit, although atonement had been made. A large body
of the natives now rushed upon them as they were passing thi )ugh a
forest, and began firing, the bullets passing amid the trees. Dr. Living-
stone fortunately encountered the chief, and, presenting a six-barrelled
revolver, produced an instant revolution in his martial feelings. The-
doctor then, ordering him and his people to sit down, rode off. They
were now accompanied by their Portuguese friends, tae Londa people,
who inhabit the banks of theLoajima.

They elaborately dress their hair in a number of way-. It naturally
hangs down on their shoulders in large masses, which, with their general
features, gives them a strong resemblance to the ancient Egyptians.
Some of them adorn their heads with ornaments of woven hair and hide
to which they occasionally suspend the tails of buffaloes. Another fash
ion is to weave the hair on pieces of hide in the form of buffalo horns
projecting on either side of the head. The young nen twine their hair
in the form of horns projecting in different directions. They frequently
tattoo their bodies, producing figures in the form of stars. Although
their hja':ls are thus elaborately adorned, their bodies are almost destitute
of clothin*;.

STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES.

131

inflamnia-
i the 28th
they were

iperstition.
I are con-
lately been
body was

ng in their
im across,
nade their
guese, who
eir love of
fine hand,
he Jews of

ssessing the
I, they were
le Makololo
large body
thr )Ugh a
Dr. Living-
x-barrelled
ings. The
off. They
da people,

Reaching Calongo, Livingstone directed his course towards the terri-
tory of his old friend, Katema. They were generally well received at the

It naturally
licir general
Egyptians,
|ir and hide
lother fash-
Iffalo horns
|e their hair
frequently
Although
bt destitute

DEAUTIFUL ZEBRAS OF AFRICA.

villages. On the 2nd of June they reached that of Kanawa. This chief,
whose village consisted of forty or fifty huts, at first treated them very

Ill' T

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182

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

politely, but he took it into his head to demand an ox as tribute. On their
refusing it, Kanawa ordered his people to arm. On this, Livingstone
diiectcd his Makololo to commence the march. Some did so with
alacrity, but one of them refused, and was preparing to fire at Kanawa,
when the doctor, giving him a blow with his pistol, made him go too.
They had already reached the banks of the river when they found that
Kanaw a had sent on ahead to carry off all the canoes. The ferrymen
supposing that the travellers were unable to navigate the canoes, left them,
unprotected, on the bank. As soon as it was dark, therefore, the Mako-
lolo quickly obtained one of them, and the whole party crossed, greatly
to the disgust of Kanawa when he discovered in the morning what had
occurred.

They now took their way across the level plain, which had been flooded
on their former journey. Numberless vultures were flying in the air,
showing the qujnt-'ty of carrion which had been left by the waters. They
passed Lake Diloio, a sheet of water six or eight miles long pnd two
broad. The sight of the blue waters had a soothing effect on the doctor,
who was suffering from fever, after his journey through the gloomy forest
and across the wide flat. Pitsane and Mohorisi, Livingstone's chief men,
had proposed establishing a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba,
'near its confluence with the Loeambye, that it might become a market
to communicate westward with Loanda, and eastward with the regions
along the banks of the Zambesi.

E.vploit.s with the Gun.

Old Shinti, whose capital they now reached, received them as before in
a friendly way, and supplied them abundantly with provisions. The doc-
tor left with him a number of plants, among which were orange, cashew,
custard, apple, and fig-trees, with coffee, acacias, and papaws, which he
had brought from Loanda. They were planted out in the enclosure of
one of his principal men, with a promise that Shinti should have a share .
of them when grown.

Ti ey now again embarked in six small canoes on the waters of the
Leeba. Paddling down it, they ne.xt entered the Leeambye. Here they **
found a party of hunters, who had been engaged in stalking buffaloes,'
hippopotami, and other animals. They use for this purpose the skin of a
deer, with the horns attached, or else the head and upper part of the body
of a crane, with which they creep through the grass till they can get near
enough to shoot their prey.

The doctor, wishing to obtain some meat for his men, took a small
canoe and paddled up a creek towards a herd of zebras seen on the shore.

On their
nngstone
so with
Kanawa,
n go too.
>und that
ferrymen
loft them,
[le Mako-
d, greatly
what had

m flooded
11 the air,
:rs. They
r pnd two

he doctor,
3my forest
chief men,
;he Leeba,
i a market
le regions

Is before in
The doc-

;e, cashew,
which he

liclosure of

tve a share .

tcrs of the
I Here they ^
buffaloes,'
skin of a
If the body
\n get near

)k a small
the shore.

1 1

033)

~7 "1-1

134

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

WW'^

F'irinjT he broke the hind leg of one of them. His men pursued it, and»
as he walked slowly after them, he observed a solitary buffalo, which had
been disturbed by others of his party, galloping towards him. The only
tree was a hundred yards off The doctor cocked his rifle in the hope of
striking the brute on the forehead. The thought occurred to him, but
A'hat should his gun miss fire ? The animal came on at a tremendous
speed, but a small bush a snort distance off made it swerve and expose its
shoulder. The doctor fired, and as he heard the ball crack, he fell flat on
lis face. The buffalo bounded past him towards the water, near which it
was found dead. His Makololo blamed tlemselves for not having been
by his side, while he returned thanks to God for his preservation.

A Joyous Reception.

On reaching the town of Lebouta, they were welcomed with the warm-
est demonstrations of joy, the women coming out, dancing and singing.
Thence they were conducted to the kotlar, or house of assembly, where
Pitsand delivered a long speech, describing the journey and the kind way
in which they had been received at Loanda, especially by the English
chief

Next day Livingstone held a service, when his Makololo braves, ar-
rayed in their red caps and white suits of European clothing, attended,
sitting with their guns over their shoulders. As they proceeded down
Barotse Valley, they were received in the same cordial manner.

The doctor was astonished at the prodigious quantities of wild animals
of all descriptions which he saw on this journey, and also when traversing
the country further to the east — elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, zebras, an-
telopes, and pigs. Frequently the beautiful springbok appeared, covering
the plain, sometimes in sprinklings and at other times in dense crowds, as
far as the eye could reach.

The troops of elephants also far exceeded in numbers anything which
he had ever before heard of or conceived. He and his men had often to
shout to them to get out of their way. and on more than one occasion a
herd rushed in upon the travellers, who not without difficulty made their
escape. A number of young elephants were shot for food, their flesh
being highly esteemed. To the natives the huge beasts are a great
plague, aj they break into their gardens and eat up their pumpkins and
other produce; when disturbed they are apt to charge those interrupting
their feast, and, following them, to demolish the huts in which they may
have tal<en refuge, not unfrequently killing them in their rage.

Resting at Sesheke, they proceeded to Linyanti, where the wagon and
everything that had been left in it in November, 1853, ^^^'^ perfectly safe.

ELEPHANT PROTECTING MKR YOUNG FROM HUNTERS SPEARS.

(1S5)

I I

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136

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

A grand meeting was called, when the doctor made a report of his jour-
ney and distributed the articles which had been sent by the governor and
merchant " Loanda. Pitsane and others then gave an account of what
they ha- j, and, as may be supposed, nothing was lost in the descrip-

t' jn. The presents afforded immense satisfaction-, and on Sunday Seke*
letu made his appearance in church dressed in the uniform which hadi
been brought down for him, and which attracted every man's attention

The Arab, Ben Habed, and Sekeletu arranged wi \ him to conduct
another j.arty with a load of ivory down to Loanda; they also consulted
him as to the proper presents to send to the go /ernor and merchants.
The Makololo generally expressed great satisfaction at the route which
had been opened up, and proposed moving to the Barotse Valley,
that they night be nearer the great market. The unhealthines j of the
climate, 'iowever, was justly considered a great arawback to the scheme*
The doctor afterwards h ard that the trading party which set out reached
L-.^nda in safety, and it must have been a great satisfaction to h'm to feel
ttii>i ..c .'.ad thus opened out a way to the enterprise of these industrious
aid intelligent people.

The donkeys which had been brought excited much admiration, ;md,
?- they were not affected by the bite of the rseise, it was hoped that they
might prove of great use. Their music, however, startled the inhabitants
more than the roar of lions.

It is not difficult to believe this statement. It is in the nature of the
ionkey to be heard ev>n farther than he can be seen, and when he takes in
a full breath and opens his mouth, it is not strange that those who listen
to his bray are frightened. This animal, however, «s not to be judged
either by his looks or his voice. He is exceedingly useful, and can be
trained to difficult service and, although he h?.s an extraordinary temper
and an extraordinary pair of ears, still the world is better off for the donkey.
He should be looked at as a part of the Divine creation, and the humbler
animals are certainly deserving of consideration for the good that they
render to the human race.

It is not customary in our country to make any great use of the dou-
<ey. In England, however, and on the Continent of Europe, as well as
in other eastern countries, the peasants who are too poor to invest in
horses can yet provide themselves with a beast o( burden. All honor,
then to the plain, ill-tempered, serviceable, long-eared, old-fashioned don
key. He should never be despi.sed after such splendid services as he has
rendered our Tropical heroes.

CHAPTER VII.

las welv as

, ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

li Ivingstone's Resolve to Reach the East Coast— A Fine Race of Negroes— One hun-
dred and fourteen Trustworthy Men— The Brave Leaders of the Company- -A
Terrible Storm— Sailing Down the Rives — Far fqmed Victoria Falls — Scene ot
Extreme Beauty — Ascending Clouds of Spray — Immense Baobab Tree — Strange
Mode of Salutation— Traffic in Ivory— Buffalo Brought Down with the Rifl*- —
Presents from a Peace-loving Chief— Vast Numbers of Wild Animals — Huge
Hippopotami and their Yourj — How the Noilves Capture Elephants — Strange
Appearance of the Natives — Mouths like those of Ducks — Hostilities by a Village
Chief—Remains of an Old Portuguese Settlement— The Doctor's Ox Gallops off-
Strange Cries and Waving Fire-brands — Visit from two Old Men — American Cal-
ico in a Far Land— Surprising Instinct of the Elephant — The Enormous Beast
Taught to Work for his Master— A New Way of Laying Timbers— Remarkable
Story by an English Officer- -Extraordinary Sagacity of the Elephnnf — Dangers
in the Path of the Expedition— Great Risk from Being Attacked by L'ons — Dread-
ful Encounter with a King of the Forest— A "Civilised Bregk/ast " — Kind Recep-
tion by an English Major — Natives who Plant Gold for Seed— Tree Supposed to
Have Remarkable Medical Virtues — Four Years away from Cape Town — Ravages
of Famine — A Chief who Wishes to Visit England— Seized with Insanity and ^^ost
Overboard — Livingstone arrives in England.

/^■^R. LIVINGSTONE now began to make arrangements for perform-
j^3 ing another hazardous journey to the East Coast. In the mean
time he was fully occupied in attending to the sick, and his other
missionary duties. He was advised to wait till the rains had fallen and
cooled the ground ; and as it was near the end of Septeiibcr, and clouds
were collecting, it was expected that they would soon commence. The
heat was very great : the thermometer, even in the shade of his wagon,
was at ioo°, and, if unprotected, rose to I io° ; during the ni^ht it sank
to 70^.

Among other routes which were proposed, he selected that by the north
bank of the Zambesi. . He would, however, thus have to pass through
territories in the possession of the ^latabele, who, under their powerful
chief had driven away the Makoiclo, its original possessors. Notwith-
standing this he had no fears for himself, as that chief looked upon Mr,
Moffatt, his father-in-law, as his especial friend. A considerable district,
also, of the country was still inhabited by the Makololo, and by them he
was sure to be kindly treated. The Makololo, it must be understood, are
a mixed race, composed of tribes of Bechuanas who formerly inhabited

(137)

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138

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the country bordering the Kalahara Desert. Their language, the Bechu-
ana, is spoken by the upper classes of the Makololo, and into this tongue,
by the persevering labors of Mr. Moffatt, nearly the whole of the Scrip-
tures have been translated. The bulk of the people are negroes, and are
an especially fine, athletic, and skilful race.

As soon as Livingstone announced his intention of proceeding to the
east, numerous volunteers came forward to accompany him. From
among them he selected a hundred ami fourteen trustworthy men, anc
Bekeletu appointed two, Sekwebu and Kanyata, as leaders of the company
Sekwebu had been captured, when a child, from the Matabele, and his
tribe now inhabited the country near Tete ; he had frequently travelled
along the banks of the Zambesi, and spoke the various dialects of the
people residing on them, and was, moreover, a man of sound judgment
and prudence, and rendered great service to the expedition.

A Fearful Storm.

On the 3rd of November Livingstone, bidding farewell to his frienas at
Linyanti, set out, accompanied by Sekeletu and two hundred followers.
On reaching a patch of country infested by troublesome flies it became
necessary to travel at night. A fearful storm broke forth, sometimes
the lightning, spreading over the slcy, forming eight or ten branches like
those of a gigantic tree. At times the light was so great that the whole
country could be distinctly seen, and in the intervals between the flashes
it was as densely dark. The horses trembled, turning round to search for
each other, while the thunder crashed with tremendous roars, louder than
is heard in other regions, the rain pelting down, making the party feel
miserably cold after the heat of the day. At length a fire, left by some
previous travellers, appeared in the distance. The doctor's baggage
having gone on before, he had to lie down on the cold ground, when
Sekeletu kindly covered him with his own blanket, remaining without
shelter himself. Before parting at Sesheke, the generous chief supplied
the doctor with twelve oxen, three accustomed to be ridden on, hoes and
beads to purchase a canoe, an abundance of fresh butter and honey; and.
indeed, he did everything in his power to assist him in his journey.

Bidding farewell to Sekeletu, the doctor and his attendants sailed down
•h i river to its confluence with the Chobe. Having reached this spot, he
prepared to strike across the country to the north-east, in order to reach
the northern bank of the Zambesi. Before doing so, however, he deter-
mined to visit the Victoria Falls, of which he had often heard. The
meaning of the African name is: "Smoke does sound there," in reference
to the vapor and noise produced by the falls.

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. 130

After twenty minutes sail from Kalai they came in sight of five columno

GIGANTIC BAOBAB TREE AT VICTORIA FALLS.

of vapor, appropriately called " smoke," rising at a distance of five or six
miles off, and bending as they ascended before the wind, the tops appear-

\ ll

l..i

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140

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ing to mingle with the clouds. The scene was extremely beautiful. The
banks and the islands which appeared here and thcfre amid the stream,
were richly adorned with trees and shrubs of various colors, many being
in full blossom. High above all rose an enormous baobab-tree surrounded
by groups of graceful palms.

As the water was now low, they proceeded in the canoe to an island in
the centre of the river, the further end of which extended to the edge of
the falls. At the spot where they landed it was impossible to discover
where the vast body of water disappearec*. It seemed, suddenly to sink
into the earth, for the opposite lip of the fissure into which it descends
was only eighty feet distant. On peering over the precipice the doctor
saw the stream, a thousand yards broad, leaping down a hundred feet and
then becoming suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty
yards, when, instead of flowing as before, it turned directly to the right
and went boiling and rushing amid the hills.

The vapor which rushes up from this cauldron to the height of two or
three hundred feet, being condensed, changes its hue to that of dark
smoke, and then comes down in a constant shower. The chief portion
falls on the opposite side of the fissure, where grow a number of ever-
green trees, their leaves always wet. The walls of this gigantic crack are
perpendicular. Altogether, Livingstone considered these falls the most
wonderful sight he had beheld in Africa.

Returning to Kalai the doctor and his party met Sekeletu, and, bidding
him a final farewell, set off northwards to Lekone, through a beautiful
countiy, on the 20th of November. The further they advanced the more
the country swarmed with inhabitants, and great numbers came to see the
white man, invariably bringing presents of maize.

An African Salutation.

The natives in this region have a curious way of saluting a stranger.
Instead of bowing they throw themselves on their backs on the ground,
rolling from side to side and slapping the outsides of their thighs, while
they utter the words '' Kina bomba! kina bomba!" In vain the doctor
implored them to stop. They, imagining him pleased, only tumbled
ibout more fiercely and slapped their thighs with greater vehemence.

These villagers supplied the party abundantly with ground nuts, maize,
and corn. Their chief, Monze, came one Sunday morning, wrapped in a
large cloth, when, like his followers, he rolled himself about in the dust,
screaming out " Kina bomba/'' He had never before seen a white man,
but had met with black native traders, who came, he said, for ivory, but
not for slaves. His wife would have been good looking, had she not

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

141

followed the custom of her country by knocking out her teeth. Monze
soon made himself at home, and presented the travellers with as much
food as they required. '

As they advanced, the country oecame still more beautiful, abounding-
with large game. Often buffaloes were seen standing on eminences. One
day, a buffalo was found lying down, and the doctor went to secure it for
food. Though the animal received three balls they did not prove fatal,
and it turned round as if to charge. The doctor and his companions
ran for shelter to seme rocks, but before they gained them, they found
that three elephants had cut off their retreat. The enormous brutes, how-
ever, turned off, and allowed them to gain the rocks. As the buffc lo was

CURIOUS MODE OF SALUTING A STRANGER.

moving rapidly away the doctor tried a long shot, and, to the satisfaction
of his followers, broke the animal's fore leg. The young men soon
brought it to a stand, and another shot in its brain settled it. They had
thus in abundance of food, which was shared by the villagers of the
neighborhood. Soon afterwards an elephant was killed by his men.

Leaving the Elephant Valley, they reached the residence of a chief
named Semalembue, who, soon after their arrival, paid them a visit, and
presented five or six baskets of meal and maize, and one of ground nuts^
saying that he feared Lis guest would sleep the first night at his vil-
lage hungry. The chief professed great joy at hearing the words of the
Gospel of Peace, replying : " Now I shall cultivate largely, in the hopes

142

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

-:>

Iv^

of eating and sleeping in quiet." It is remarkable that all to whom the
doctor spoke, eagerly Ufught up the idea of living in peace as the proba-
ble cflLct of the Gospel. This region Sekwebu considered one of the
best adapted for the residence of a large tribe. It was here that Sebit-
uane formerly dwelt.

They now crossed the Kafue by a ford. Every available spot betweet
the river and hills was under cultivation. The inhabitants selected these
positions to secure themselves and their gardens from their human enemies
They are also obliged to make pit-holes to protect their grounds from tht
hippopotami. These animals, not having been disturbed, were unusually
tame, and took no notice of the travellers, A number of young ones
were seen, not much larger than terrier dogs, sitting on the necks of their
dams, the little saucy-looking heads cocked up between the old one's
ears ; when older they sit more on the mother's back. Meat being
required, a full-grown cow was shot, the flesh of which resembles pork.
Great Niiinbers of Wild Animals.

The party now directed thc:r course to the Zambesi near its confluence
with the Kafue, They enjoyed a magnificent view from the top of the
outer range of hills, A short distance below them was the Kafue, winding
its way over a forest-clad plain, while on the other side of the Zambesi
lav a long range of dark hills. The plain below abounded in large game.
Hundreds of buffalo and zebras grazed on the open spaces, and there
stood feeding two majestic elephants, each slowly moving its proboscis.
On passing amidst them the animals showed their tameness by standing
beneath the trees, fanninf; themselves with their large ears. A number
also of red-colored pigs were seen. The people having no guns, they are
never disturbed.

A night was spent in a huge baobab-tree, which would hold twenty
men inside. As they moved on, a herd of buffaloes came strutting up to
look at their oxen, and only by shooting one could they be made to retreat.
Shortly afterwards a female elephant, with three young ones, charged
through the centre of their extended line, when the men, throwing dowL
their burdens, retreated in a great hurry, she receiving a spear for he;
temerity.

They were made aware of their approach to the great river by the vast
number of waterfalls which appeared. It was found to be much broader
than above the falls : a person might attempt in vain to make his voice
heard across it. An immense amount of animal life was .seen both around
and in it. Pursuing i^cir down the left bank, they came opposite the
island of Menyemakaba, which is about two miles long and a quarter

honi the
e proba-
e of the
at Sebit-

betweet
:ed these
enemies
I from tht
inusuall/
ung ones
:s of their
old one's
;at being
l;s pork.

:onfluence
:op of the
2, winding
: Zambesi
rge game,
and there
proboscis.

standing
V number

, they are

)ld twenty
ting up to
to retreat,
s, charged
zing dowi
ar for he;

)y the vast
:h broader
his voice
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iposite the
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144

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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broad. Besides its human population it supports a herd of sixty buffalo.
The comparatively small space to which the animals have confined them-
selves shows the luxuriance of the vegetation The only time that the
natives can attack them is when the rivei is full and part is flooded : they
then assail them from their canoes.

Both buffalo and elephants are numerous. To kill them the natives
form stages on high trees overhanging the paths by which they come
lo the water. From thence they dart down their spears, the blades o
which are twenty inches long by two broad, when the motion of the
handle, aided by knocking against the trees, makes fearful gashes which
soon cause death. They form also a species of trap. A spear inserted
in a beam of wood is suspended from the branch of a tree, to which a
cord is attached with a latch. The cord being led along the path when
struck by the animal's foot, the beam falls, and, the spear being poisoned,
death shortly ensues.

At each village they passed, two men were supplied to conduct them
to the next, and lead them through the parts least covered with jungle.
Female Mouths Itcscinbliug- those of Ducks.

The villagers were busily employed in their gardens. Most of the
men have muscular figures. Their color varies from a dark to a light
olive. The women have the extraordinary custom of piercing the upper
lip, and gradually enlarging the orifice till a shell can be inserted. The
lip appears drawn out beyond the nose, and gives them a very ugly ap-
pearance. As Sekwebu remarked : " These women want to make their
mouths like those of ducks." The commonest of these rings are made
of bamboo, but others are of ivory or metal. When the wearer tries to
smile, the contraction of the muscles turns the ring upwards, so that its
upper edge comes in front of the eyes, the nose appearing through the
middle, while the whole front teeth are exposed by the motion, exhibiting
the way in which they have been clipped to resemble the fangs of a cat
or a crocodile.

On their next halt Seole, the chief of the village, instead of receiving
vhem in a friendly way, summoned his followers and prepared for an attack
The reason was soon discovered. It appeared that an Italian, who hac
married the chief's daughter, having armed a party of fifty slaves with
guns, had ascended the river in a canoe from Tete, and attacked several
inhabited islands beyond Makaba, taking large numbers of prisoners and
much ivory. As he descended again with his booty, his party was dis-
persed and he himself was killed while attempting to escape en foot.
Seole imacrincd that the doctor was another Italian.

)uffalo.
[ them-
liat the
1 : they

natives
y come
lades O!
of the
J which
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which a
th when
oisoned,

jct them
unglc.

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-) a light
he upper
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ugly ap-
ike their
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146

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Had not the chief with whom they had previously stayed arrived to
exphiin matters, Seole mipht have given them much trouble.

Mburuma, another chief of the same tribe, had laid a plan to plunder
the party by separating them, but the doctor, suspecting treachery, kept
his people together. They had on a previous occasion plundered a party
of traders bringing English goods from Mozambique. .

Ruins of An Old Towu.

On the 14th of January they reached the confluence of the Loangws
and the Zambesi. Here the doctor discovered the ruins of a town, with
remains of a church in its midst. The situation was well chosen, with
lofty hills in the rear and a view of the two rivers in front. On one side
of the church lay a broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a cross.
This he found was a Portuguese settlement called Zumbo.

The conduct of Mburuma and his people gave Livingstone much
anxiety, as he could not help dreading that they might attack him thfc
next morning. His chief regret was that his efforts for the welfare of the
teeming population in that great region would thus be frustrated by sav-
ages, of whom it might be said: "They know not what they do." He
felt especially anxious that the elevated and healthy district which he had
now discovered, stretching towards Tete, should become known. It was
such a region as he had been Ic ng in quest of as a centre from which
missionary enterpiise might be carried into the surrounding country.

While the party were proceeding along the banks of the river, passing
through a dense bush, three buffaloes broke through their line. '1 he
doctor's ox galloped off, and, as he turned back, he saw one of his
men tossed several feet in the air. On returning, to his satisfaction he
found that the poor follow had alighted on his face, and, although he had
been carried twenty yards on the animal's horns, he had in no way
suffered. On the creature's approaching him he had thrown down his
load and stabbed it in the side, when it caught him and carried him off
before he could escape.

Soon after this they had evidence that they were approaching the Por-
tuguese settlements, by meeting a person with a jacket and hat on. From
this person, who was quite black, they learned that the Portuguese set
tlement of Tete was on the other bank of the river, and that the inhabi-
tants had been engaged in war with the natives for some time past.
This was disagreeable news, as Livingstone wished to be at peace with
both parties.

As they approached the village of Mpende, that chief sent out his peo-
ple to enquire who the travellers were. The natives, on drawing near.

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

147

ved to

jlunder
y, kept
a party

.oangw£
Ntx, with
len, with
one side
a cross.

(le much

c him the

are of the

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ch he had

n. It was

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igh he had
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;d him off

U the For-

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Ithe inhabi-

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3eace with

tut his peo-
iwing near,

uttered strange cries and waved some bright red substance towards them.
Having lighted a fire, they threw some charms into it and hastened away,
uttering frightful screams, believing that they should thus frighten the
strangers and render them powerless. The Makololo, however, laughed
at their threats, but the doctor, fully believing that a skirmish would take
place, ordered an ox to be killed to feast his men, following the plan
Sebituane employed for giving his followers courage.

At last * o old men made their appearance and enquired if the doctot
was a Bazunga, pr Portuguese. On showing his hair and white skin,
they replied: ** Ah, you must be one of the tribe that loves black men."
Finally the chief himself appeared, and expressed his regret that he had
not known sooner who they were, ultimately enabling them to cross the
river. After this they were detained for some time by the rains on the
south bank.

Meeting with native traders, the doctor purchased some American
calico in order to clothe his men. It was marked " I^wrence Mills,
Lowell," with two small tusks, an interesting fact.

Game laws existed even in this region. His party having killed an
elephant, he had to send back a considerable distance to give information
to the person in charge of the district, the owner himself living near the
Zambesi. Their messenger returned with a basket of corn, a fowl, and a
few strings of beads, a thank-offering to them for having killed it. The
tusk of the side on which the elephant fell belonged to the owner, while
the upper was the prize of the sportsman. Had they begun to cut up
the animal before receiving permission they would have lost the whole.
The men feasted on their half of the carcass, and for two nights an
immense number of hyaenas collected round, uttering their loud laughter.
Wonderful Instinct of the Elephant.
All travellers in the Tropics are surprised at the remarkable intelli-
gence of this animal, and the varied service it can be made to render.
An elephant can be trained almost as a child is trained, and appears to
know quite as much.

We have seen in some of the foregoing pages one side of the elephant's
nature in his wild state, but it is only fair to remember his gentleness and
fi iendliness in captivity, which is really voluntary, because he might with
a blow of his trunk annihilate his keepers and escape to his native jungle.
In his long life he often changes his iiioic-, but his allegiance goes too:
and he is devoted to each, and figures alike as porter, wood-cutter, errand-
boy, hunter, gladiator in fights with tigers, and artillery-man.
Says a traveller: I have seen in India, elephants let out by their owners

I 1

148

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

as choppers, workinpf as day-laborers and returning at night to sleep at
home — that is, at their master's. These intelligent animals, armed with
long axes, the use of which they have been taught, cut, at otherwise
perfectly impracticable heights, the gigantic trees which are used in the
keels of vessels, carry them to the nearest port, and deliver them to other
elephants to pile — a feat which they accomplish with the greatest regular-
ity and with a strength that no number of men can equal. They work
ilune, too, without any special oversight on the part of the keeper, who
often comes but once a day to note their progress; and yet there is not a
case on record where one of them has attempted to return to his free life
in the forest, or rejoin his former companions enjoying themselves in the
neighboring ravines, while he is working hard on the hills above. Indeed,
they grow to hate their untamed cousins, and fight them — and usually
successfully — at every opportunity, bearing them away in bondage to their
masters,

A Grateful Beast.

The English have made use of their enormous strength in all the wars
in India and, more recently, in Africa, where without them the troops
would have been helpless to move the artillery, even the lighter pieces,
which these dumb allies carried bravely into action on their backs, while
their courage under fire has been attested by special mention in the re-
ports from the English ofificers. One of them says :

" In our marches across Bengal we used elephants in the baggage train,
so well disposed to us that, without waiting for a command from the
keeper, if a wagon stuck, one of them would hurry up, put his mighty
shoulder to the wheel, and never rest till it was rolling on smoothly again.
Then he would return to his own proper place and duty in the line again.
One morning, in the press of wagons and animals, one of the elephants
was hurt by the heavy wheel of a cart running over his foot. I happened
to be near, and bound it up with a towel dipped in camphorated brandy,
and tightened the bandage as well as I could, and off he limped to his
stable. In the afternoon I went to sec how he was getting on. He wa^
lying on a bed of straw; he recognized me at once, and held out Lis
wounded foot for me to see. I renewed the bandage each day; and after
diat the grateful animal never passed my tent without a peculiar cry which
he used for that occasion alone, and when he met me he always gently rub-
bed my back or shoulders with his trunk, uttering little sniffs of pleasure."

Major Skinner, of the English Army, vouches for the following story,
which shows on the part of the elephant intelligence, memory, comparison,
judgment, and good-nature.

[eep at
d with
lervvise
1 in the
;o other
egular-
ly work
»er, who
is not a
free Ufe
is in the
Indeed,
usually
3 to their

the wars
le troops
er pieces,
ks, while
in the re-
age train,

from the
is mighty
illy again,
line again.

elephants

happened
[d brandy,

)ed to his

He wai

Id out liis

and aftci

cry which

lently rub-
pleasure."

[ing story,
)mparison,

iiiiklilillillli

a49)

i a

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ill

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150

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Riding along a very narrow trail near Kandy, in Ceylon, where he hap^-
pened to be stationed, he heard the heavy tread of an approaching
elephant, uttering discontented grunts which frightened his rather ner-
vous horse, and made him rear and plunge. He says :

" I soon saw whence these sounds proceeded. A tame elephant had
undertaken the difficult task of transporting a long girder, renting on his
:usks, over the narrow road. Between the trees on either side there was
lot room for this to pass, and he could only advance by turning his head
from side to side and avoiding each tree as he went. It was a slow
business, and no wonder he complained ; but on seeing how his trumpet-
ings frightened my horse, he ceased inr'antly, i ire v down his load,
and pressed his hu^ , body close U| agair.s: i'v cj:; > n one .>ide of Lhe
road to allow us to pass. My horse trembk •* al; over, and refused to
move, seeing which, the elephant drew still fa; ucr b;:rV and tried to en-
courage the coward by a gentler note.

" Finally the latter plucked up enough heart to dash by on his way,
when the faithful elephant resumed the laborious errand in which we had
found him engaged.

*' This elephant had, before the campaign, been used as a watchman by
his owner, whose estates bordered on a river. Marauders would drop
down the stream in their craft, and rob the gardens and orchards, and be
off again without leaving any trace of their coming than the empty trees
and ravaged beds. Tired of losing the fruits of his labor, the owner had
trained this elephant to perform sentinel duty along the bank ; and, when
danger threatened, the animal would growl like a dog, and filling his
huge trunk with water from the stream, would play upon the rascals like
a fire-engine, drowning them out of their boats like rats, until they were
glad to hoist sail and make off to the best of their ability."

How Elephants are Captured.

The art of hunting, the elephant, although of most ancient origin, is
practiced to-day on a larger scale than ever before, because of the ser-
vices which the English have found he can perform for them. As long
as elephants were used simply to add splendor to the suite of a rajah, or
dignity to one of the religious processions, it sufficed to hunt single
animals, capturing them by a decoy elephant ridden by a nati^ e, who
provoked and held the attention of the game, while another ran up
behind and cleverly passed a chain around one of his legs. Bound in
this way the elephant was sure, under the influence of starvation, and the
example of his former companions, to yield eventually to his captors.

Now the country is divided into " preserves," over which a royal officer

m* I

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

151

is appointed, and immense hunting parties are made up, and whole herds
captured at once ; although it is no easy thing to take alive and
un wounded an aniniul that has at once such strength and such intelli-
gence as the elephant. It could not be done without the aid of other
elephants, w':o bring their attachment to their masters to this high point,
and having iisted in the capturL-, go still farther and instruct the cap-
tives in their "uture dr.ties "ihe trait of obedir mcc is, however, rathet the
result of affr -ion than fear, ad in this regard the elephant's docility is
more like tl\. of tne dog than of the h jrse. It even leads them to bear
the pair* of ihe worst sur^rica^ operations, like the burning out with a hot
iron of tumors or ulcers, or the taking of the most bitter medicines at
the hands of their " approved good masters."

Dangers Ahead.

Returning to our narrative, the people inhabiting the country on th' ;
side of the Zambesi are known as the Banyai ; their favorite weapon is >
huge axe, which is carried over the shoulder. It is used chiefly for h? i-
stringing the elephant, in the same way as the Hamran Arab use- Hit
sword. The Banyai, however, steals on the animal unawares, while ti.
Hamran hunter attacks it when it is rushing in chase of one of his om-
rades, who '^allops on ahead on a well trained steed.

Those curious birds, the "hon-ey guides," were very attentive to them,
and, by their means, the Makololo obtained an abundance of honey. Of
the wax, however, in those districts no use appears to be made. Though
approaching the Portuguese settlement, abundance of game was still
found. The Makololo killed six buffalo calves from among a l^ird which
was met with.

They were warned by the natives that they ran a great risk of being
attacked by lions when wandering on either side of the line of march in
search of honey. One of the doctor's head men, indeed, Monahin, hav-
ing been suddenly seized with a fit of insanity during the night, left the
camp, and as he never returned, it —.s too probable that he was carried
off by a lion.

This shows the appalling dange»"s attending travel in Africa, another
instance of which is here related.

As the particulars were vouchsafed by spectators of the drama, it may
be relied upon as true. A lion had been pursued, and had taken refuge
in a patch of green reeds. This the hunting party surrounded. " We
now," says the narrator, " ranged ourselves within pistol-shot of the reeds,
taking care to have a clear view all around us ; we then rent the air with
deafening shouts, and pierced the brake with numerous bullets. All in

1 It-

1 .■ •' 1

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. m

- i

1- '

152

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

vain ; the animal remained motionless. The fire which we had originally
lighted was now, however, quickly approaching the spot on which all
eyes were fixed, and we hoped that it might effect what we had been un-
able :o accomplish, when to our great vexation and disappointment, a
slight veering of the wind drove tiie flames in another direction.

Lion Routed by Flames.

"We should now have been fairly baffled if the ingenuity of a nr.tiv-^
had not come to our aid. Collecting a number of dry reeds, with other
inflammable matter, and setting fire to the same, this intelligent native
seized the fagots at one end, and, running at the top of his speed, hurled
the whole lighted mass into the very centre of the lion's hiding place.
The effect was almost instantaneous, for in a very few minutes afterward
we had the satisfaction of seeing the enemy dash through the flames. It
had been prcviou.^ly agreed on that, upon his first appearanc, those who
possessed double-barreled guns should fire only one barrel, reserving the
other for the charge should he turn upon us. The mere sight, however,
of the lion seemed to have frightened several of the party and their bar-
/els were indiscriminately fired in every direction, and some even blazed
away in the empty air.

"On receiving our fire the animal made straight for us, on which every
one, with the exception of another and myself, took to his heels. The
former gentleman, who had never seen a lion in its wild state, became so
terrified that he was unable even to fire or to attempt to make his escape.
He remained fixed and motionless on the spot, like one entranced. I had
by this time taken a few steps backward, yet without ever averting my
eyes from our foe, who, having approached to within a few paces, prepared
him.self to make the fatal spring. I had already fired when he burst out
of his cover; but one barrel still remained to me, and seeing my friend's
imminent danger, I no longer hesitated. Clapping the gun to my shoulder,
1 took a steady aim at the side of his head ; unfortunately just as I pulled
the trigger he made a slight movement, and the consequence was that
instead of smashing his skull the bullet merely grazed it, passing in the
same nanner all along the left side of his body.

In the Jaws of the Infuriated Beast.

" Quick as thought, the enraged animal left his first intended victim,
and turned with a ferocious growl upon me. To escape was impossible.
1 thrust, therefore, no other resource being left me, the muzzle of my gun
into the extended jaws of>ened to devour me. In a moment the weapon
was demolished. My fate seemed inevitable, when, just at this critical

jinally
ich ali
en un-
iient, a

L nr.tiv .:
w othci
: native
, hurled
g place,
terward
ncs. It
ose wlu)
ving tlie
jowevcr,
heir bar-
n blazed

cli every
Is. The
:came .so
s escape.
1. 1 had
rting my
prepared

lurst out
friend's

ihoulder,
I pulled

was that
Ing in the

td victim,
ipossible.
If my gun
le weapon
lis critical

(1^)

154

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

juncture, I was unexpectedly rescued. One of my men fiied, and broke
the lion's shoulder. He fell, and, taking advantage of this lucky incident,
I scampered away at full speed. But my assailant had not yet done with
me. Despite his crippled condition he soon overtook me. At that
moment T was looking over my shoulder, when, unhappily, a creeper caught
my foot and I was precipitated headlong to the ground. In another in-
stant the lion had transfixed my right foot with his murderous fangs.
Finding, however, my left foot disengaged, I gave the brute a severe kick
on the head, which compelled him for a few seconds to suspend his attack.
** He next seized my left leg, on which I repeated the former dose on
his head with my right foot; he once more, thereupon, let go his hold,
but seized my right foot for a second time. Shortly afterward he drop-
ped the foot and grasped my right thigh, gradually working his way up
to my hip, where he endeavored to plant his claws. In this he partially
succeeded, tearing, in the attempt, my trowsers and body linen, and grazing
the skin of my body. Knowing that if he got a firm hold of me here it
would surely cost me my life, I quickly seized him by his two ears, and,
with a desperate effort, managed to roll him over on his side, which gave
me a moment's respite.

Hnir-breadth Escape ft'om a Terrible Death.
" He next laid hold of my left hand, which he bit through and through,
«mashing the wrist, and tearing my right hand seriously. I was now
totally helpless, and must inevitably have fallen a speedy victim to his fury-
had not prompt assistance been at hand. In my prostrate position I ob-
served, and a gleam of hope sprung up, my friend advancing quickly to-
ward me. The lion saw him too, and, with one of his paws on my
wounded thigh, throwing his ears well back, he crouched, ready to spring
at his new assailant. Now, if my friend had fired, in my present position
I should have run great risk of being hit by the bullet; I hallooed out to
him, therefore, to wait until I could veer my head a little. In time I suc-
ceeded, and the next instant I heard the click of a gun, but no report.

" Another moment, and a well-directed ball, taking effect in his fore-
head, laid the lion a corpse alongside my own bruised and mutilated body.
Quick as lightning, I now sprang to my feet, and darted forward toward
iTiy companions, whom I saw at no great di.stance. Once or twice I felt
excessively faint, but managed, nevertheless, to keep my head up.

"No sooner had my companion so successfully finished the lion than he
mounted a horse hard by, and galoped off in the direction of our camp.
In the meantime I was lifted upon a tame ox, which was led by a man
preceding us. At about half-way to our camp two of my men came to

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

155

broke
:ident,
e with
.t that
caught
iier in-
fangs.
;re kick
, attack.
Jose on
is hold,
le drop-
way up
partially
, grazing
e here it
ars, and.
ich gave

through,
Bvas now
3 his fury-
ion I ob-
lickly to-
on my
to spring
t position
)ed out to
me I suc-
report.
his fore-
ited body,
d toward
wice 1 felt

up.

3n than he
our camp,
by a man
n came to

meet me, bringing with them, to refresh me, some water and a bottle of
eau-dc-cologne. A drinking-cup we had not, but the crown of a wide-
awake hat was a good substitute for one, and I drank the mixture of the
two liquids greedily off. A few minutes afterward we were met by some
of the servants carrying a door. Exchanging then my ox for this more
commodious conveyance, I was carefully borne into camp. Up to this
time I hau "Stained perfect self-possession, but the moment my wounds
vvere washed and dressed I swooned, and for three entire weeks re-
mained in a state of complete unconsciousness. I have since per-
fectly recovered health, but, as you see, I am totally crippled in my left
arm.

" I must not omit to mention that my brave dog, although shot through
one of his fore-legs, on seeing the lion rush upon me, came forward at
the best of his speed, and in his turn sprang upon my grim assailant, and
clung desperately to him until my companion's bullet put an end to the
combat."

Kncounters similar to this are the fate of all travellers in some parts of
Africa, and many were Livingstone's narrow escapes upon this journey.

It was not till the 2nd of March that the neighborhood of Tete was
reached. Livingstone was then so prostrated that, though only eight
miles from it, he could proceed no further. He forwarded, however, the
letters of recommendation he received in Angola to the commandant. The
following morning a company of soldiers with an officer arrived, bringing
the materials for a civilized breakfast, and a litter in which to carry him.
He felt so greatly revived by the breakfast, that he was able to walk the
w hole way.

He was received in the kindest way by Major Sicard, the commandant
of Tete, who provided also lodging and provision for his men. Tete is a
mere village, built on a slope reaching to the water, close to which the
fort is situated. There are about thirty European houses; the rest of the
buildings, inhabited by the natives, are of wattle and daub.

Town Destroyed by Fire.

Formerly, besides gold-dusi md ivory, large quantities of grain, coffee,
sugar, oil, and indigo were exported from Tete, but, on the establishment
of the slave trade, the merchants found a more speedy way of becoming
rich, by selling off their slaves, and the plantations and gold washings
were abandoned, the laborers having been exported to the Brazils. Many
of the white men then followed their slaves. After this a native of Goa,
Nyaude by name, built a stockade at the confluence of the Luenya ancj
Zambesi, took the commandant of Tete, who attacked him, prisoner, and

156

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

: .1

'mi':

sent his son Bonga with a force against that town and burned it. Others
followed his example, till commerce, before rendered stagnant by the
slavq trade, was totally obstructed.

On the north shore of the Zambesi several fine seams of coal exist,
which Livingstone examined. The natives only collect gold from the
neighborhood wht never they wish to p«u chase calico. On finding a piece
or flake of gold, however, they bury it again, believing that it is the seed
of gold, and, though knowing its value, prefer losing it rather than, as
they suppose, the whole future crop.

Livingstone found it necessary to leave most of his men here, and
Major Sicard liberally gave them a portion of land that they might culti-
vato {•:, supplying them in the mean time with corn. He also allowed the
yc.i/-g men to go out and hunt elephants with his servants, that they
might purchase goods with the ivory and dry meat, in order that they
might take them back with them on returning to their own homes. He
also supplied them with cloth. Sixty or seventy at once accepted his
offer, delighted with the thoughts of engaging in so profitable an enter-
prise. He also supplied the doctor with an outfit, refusing to take the
payment which was offered.

Hunters in the Bushes.

The forests in the neighborhood abound with elephants, and the natives
attack them in the boldest manner. Only tvvo hunters sally forth together
— one carrying spears, the other an axe of a peculiar shape, with a long
handle. As soon as an elephant is discovered, the man with the spears
creeps among the bushes in front of it, so as to attract its attention, during
which time the a.xe-man cautiously approaches from behind, and, with a
sweep of his formidable weapon, severs the tendon of the animal's hock.
The huge creature, now unable to move in spite of its strength and sa-
gacity falls an easy prey to the two hunters.

Among other valuable productions of this country is found a tree allied
to the cinchona. The Portuguese believe that it has the same virtues as
quinine. As soon as the doctor had recovered his strength he preparer
o proceed down the river to Kilimane, or Quillimanc, with sixteen of his
faithful Makololo as a crew. Many of the rest were out elephant hunting,
while others had established a brisk trade in fire-wood. Major Sicarc!
lent him a boat, and sent Lieutenant Miranda to escort him to the coast.
On their way they touched at the stockade of the rebel, Bonga, whose
son-in-law, Manoel, received them in a friendly way.

They next touched at Senna, which was found in a wretchedly ruinouL
condition. Here some of the Makololo accepted employment from

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST.

157

Eight

Lieutenant Miranda to return to Tete with a load of goods,
accompanied the doctor, at their earnest request, to Quillimane.

He reached that village on the 20th of May, when it wanted but a few-
days of being four years since he started from Cape Town. He was hos-
pitably received by Colonel Nunes. A severe famine had existed among
the neighboring population, and food was very scarce. He therefore
advised his men to turn back to Tete as soon as possible, and await his
return from England. They still earnestly wished to accompany him, as
Sekeletu had advised them not to part with him' till they had reached
Ma-Robert, as they called Mrs. Livingstone, and brought her back with
them.

A Native Bound fur Eiigrlaiid.

With the smaller tusks he had in his possession he purchased calico
and brass wire, which he sent back to Tete for his followers, depositing
the remaining twenty tusks with Colonel Nunes, in order that, should he
be prevented from visiting the country, it might not be supposed that he
had made away with Sekeletu's ivory. He requested Colonel Nunes, in
case of his death, to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to his men,
intending to purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in England with
his own money, and, on his return, repay himself out of the price of the
ivory. He consented, somewhat unwillingly, to take Sekwcbu with him
to England.

After waiting about six weeks at Quillimane, the brig " Frolic " ar-
rived, on board which he embarked. A fearful sea broke over the bar,
and the brig wa^ rolling so much that there was great difficulty in reaching
her deck. Poor Sekwebu looked at his friend, asking : " Is this the way
you go ? " The doctor tried to encourage him ; but, though well ac-
quainted with canoes, he had never seeri anything like it.

Having been three and a half years, with the exception of a short
interval in Angola, without speaking English, and for thirteen but par-
tially using it, the doctor found the greatest difficulty in expressing him-
self on board the " Frolic."

The brig sailed on the I2th of July for the Mauritius, which was reached
'on the 1 2th of August. Poor Sekwebu had become a favorite both with
men and officers, and was gaining some knowledge of English though
all he saw had apparently affected his mind. The sight of a steamer,
which came out to tow the brig into the harbor, so affected him that
during the night he became insane and threatened to throw himself into
the water. By gentle treatment he became calmer, and Livingstone tried
to get him on shore, but he refused to go. In the evening his malady

" i'C

^\ ?

{ iff^

158

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

returned ; and, after attempting to spear one of the crew, he leaped over-
board and, pulling himself down by the chain cable, disappeared. The
body of poor Sekwebu was never found.

After remaining some time at the Mauritius, till he hadVecovered from
the effects of the African fever, '^ur enterprising traveller sailed by way of
the Red Sea for old England, which he reached on the 1 2th of December.
1856.

Dr. Livingstone, in the series of journeys which have been described, had
already accomplished more than any previous traveljer in Africa, besides
having gained information of the greatest value as regards both mission-
ary and mercantile enterprise. He had as yet, however, performed only
a small portion of the great work his untiring zeal and energy prompted
him to undertake.

Livingstone's visit to England was one of great interest to himself and
to the general public. Multitudes had followed his career in the Dark
Continent, had journeyed with him in all his wanderings, had shared in
imagination his sufferings and victories, and were ready to gr-eet him
with enthusiasm upon his return. To the Christian public the Dark
Continent presented itself as a missionary field; to the commercial public
the same continent presented itself as a mart for business and a market
for trade. Thus the interest awakened by the great explorer's discover-
ies in the far land was almost universal. Livingstone was a renowned
charactt;r, was invited to participate in various public meetings, was
sought after by men of celebrity, was a kind of social lion throughout
the country, while high hopes were entertained of future exploits, and
free offers of support constantly poured in upon him.

The value of his discoveries can never be estimated. It will take many
ages to fully understand what was attempted by this one man and what
was achieved. He may be considered as a benefactor of his race; while
devoted to exploration and scientific discovery, he took a higher view of
his mission. The fact that the benighted continent of Africa has within
the last few years been brought into close relations with the civilized i>art<
of the world will form the brightest page in modern histoiy.

CHAPTER VIII.
AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

Fresh Start for a Long Exploring Tour — An English Steamer in African Waten*
Battle between the Portuguese and a Savage Chief— Rescue of the Governor—
The " Ma-Robert " Commences Her Voyage — Astonishment of the Naiives—
Hardships of Travelling in the Tropics — A Swift Cataract— The Murchinson
Falls — A Chief Loses His Little Girl — Natives Obstructing the Expedition-
Searching for a Great Lake — Pursued by a BufTalo — Trap for the Hippopota-
mus—Failure to Recover the Lost Child — Singular Ideas of Female Beauty— Fear-
ful Cry from the River — A Native's Deadly Combat with a Crocodile — Monsters
Hatched from Eggs— Discovery of the Great Lake— Scarcity of Water — Return
of the " Ma Robert " — A Conspicuous Fraud — Hostile Chief Conciliated — Abun-
dance of Game and Numerous Lions — Sketch of the Batoka Tribe— Peculiar
Fashion of Wearing the Hair — Masters of the Canoe— Perils among Breakers —
Very Polite Savages— Singular Customs and Ceremonies— Fearless Hunters— Na-
tive Belit f in a Future Existence — Melodious Sounds of Music -African Poets-
Incorrigible Liars — Put to Death for Bewitching a Chief— Gang of Cattle Steal-
ers — Adventure with a River Horse— Man Saved on a Rock — Tropical Chame-
leon—A Marveleous Reptile — Shifiing Colors — Seized by a Crocodile— Horse and
Rider Terribly Wounded.

aFTER spending rjather more than a year in England, Dr. Living-
stone again set out, on the lot.'- of March 1858, on board Her
Majesty's Ship " Pearl," at the hcA'! of a government expedition
for the purpose of exploring the Zambesi and neighboring regions. He
was accompanied by Dr. Kirk, his brother Charles Livingstone, and Mr.
Thornton ; and Mr. T. Baines was appointed artist to the expedition.

A small steamer, which was called the " Ma Robert," in compliment to
Mrs. Livingstone, was provided by the government for the navigation o'
the river. The East Coast was reached in May. Running up the river
I.uawe, supposed to be a branch of the Zambesi, the " Pearl " came to an
anchor, and the " Ma-Robert," which had been brought out in sections,
was screwed together. The two vessels then went together in search of
the real mouth of the river, from which Quillimane is some sixty miles
Jistant, the Portuguese having concealed the real entrance, if they were
acquainted with it, in order to deceive the English cruisers in search ol
slavers.

The goods for the expedition brought out by the " Pearl " having been
landed on a grassy island about forty miles from thf, bar, that vessel sailed
for Ceylon, while the little " Ma- Robert" was left to pursue her course

(159)

t i

llilv

V im

160

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

alone. Her crew consisted of about a dozen Krumen and a few
Europeans.

At Mazaro, the mouth of a creek communicating with the Quillimane
or Kilimane River, the expedition heard that the Portuguese were at war
with a half-caste named Mariano, a brother of Bonga, who had built a
stockade near the mouth of the Shire, and held possession of all the inter-
mediate country. He had been in the habit of sending out his armed
bands on slave-hunting expeditions among the helpless tribes to the north-
west, selling his victims at Quillimane, where they were shipped as free
emigrants to the French island of Bourbon.

An Inhuman Monster.

As long as his robberies and murders were restricted to the natives at
a distance, the Portuguese did not interfere, but when he began to carry
off and murder the people near them, they thought it time to put a stop
to his proceedings. They spoke of him as a rare monster of inhumanity.
He frequently killed people with his own hand in order to make his name
dreaded. Having gone down to Quillimane to arrange with the governor,
or, in other words, to bribe him, Colonel De Silva put him in prison and
sent him for trial to Mozambique. The war, however, was continued
under his brother Bonga, and had stopped all trade on the river.

The expedition witnessed a battle at Mazaro, between Bonga and the
Portuguese, when Livingstone, landing, found himself in the sickening
smell and among the mutilated bodies of the slain. He brought off the
governor, who was in a fever, the balls whistling about his head in all
directions. The Portuguese then escaped to an island opposite Shupanga,
where, having exhausted their ammunition, they were compelled to remain.

There is a one-storied house at Shupanga, from which there is a mag-
nificent view down the river. Near it is a large baobab-tree, beneath
which, a few years later, the remains of the beloved wife of Dr. Living-
stone were to repose.

On the 17th of August the "Ma-Robert" commenced her voyage up
the stream for Tete. It was soon found that her furnaces being badly
constructed, and that from other causes she was ill-adapted for the work-
before her. She quickly, in consequence, obtained the name of the
"Asthmatic." Senna, which was visited on the way, being situated on
low ground, is a fe''... -giving place. The steamer, of course, caused
great astonishment to ihc jteople. who assembled in crowds to witness
her movements, whirling ratind their arms to show the way the paddles
revolved.

>
H

3:
>

Tete was reached o-^ tV " 8t.b of 3t p. ember No

sooner did Living-

the

, all

inga,

nain.

lag-
ath

kie

Ivmg-

rc up

jadly

I work

If the

id on

lused

litncss

Iddlcs

,-sai^^

Iving-

(len

;!>• f

i ii

162

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

stone go on shore, than his Makololo rushed down to the water's edge,
and manifested the greatest joy at seeing him. Six of the young men
had foolishy gone off to make money by dancing before some of the
neighboring chiefs, when they fell into the hands of Bonga, v no, de-
claring that they had brought witchcraft medicine to kill him, put them

all to death.

Hardships of Overland Travel.

The Portuguese at this place keep numerous slaves, whom they treat
with tolerable humanity. When they can they purchase the whole of a
family, thus taking away the chief inducement for running off.

The expedition having heard of the Kebrabasa Falls, steamed up the
river to Panda Mokua, where the navigation ends, about two miles below
them. Hence the party started overland, by a frightfully rough path
among rocky hills, where no shade was to be found. At last their guides
declared that they could go no further ; indeed, the surface of the ground
was so hot that the soles of the Makololos* feet became blistered. The
travellers, however, pushed on. Passing round a steep pro.nontory, they
beheld the river at their feet, the chaniicl jammed in between two moun-
tains with perpendicular sides, and less than fifty yards wide. There is a
sloping full of about twenty feet in height, and another at a distance of
thirty yards above it. When, however, the river risc3 upwards of eighty
feet perpendicularly, as it does in the rainy season, the cataract might be
passed in boats.

After returnmg to Teto, the steamer went up the Shire, January, 1859.
The natives, as tiiey passed them, collected at their villages in large num-
bers, armed with bows and poisoned arrows, threatening to attack them
Liv ^igstone, however, went on shore, and .explained to the chief, Tingane,
that they had come neither to take slaves 'lor to fight, but wished to open
up a path by which his countryman could ascend to purchase their cot-
ton. On this Tingane at once became fri^^ndly.

Mag-nificeut Cataract.

Their progress was arrested, after steaming up a hundred miles in a
straight line, although, counting the windings of the river, double ihat
distance, by magnificent cataracts known to the natives as those of the
Mamvira, but called by the expedition the Murchison Falls. Rain pre-
vented them making observations, and they returned at a rapid rate
down the river.

A second trip up it was made in March of the same year. They here
gained the frient'ship of Chibisa, a shrewd and intelligent chief, whose
village was about ten miles below the cataracts. He told the doctor that

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESF

163

s edge,
ng men
". of the
no, de-
nt them

ley treat
lole of a

;d up the
[es below
jgh path
:ir guides
le ground
•ed. The
tory, they
ivo moun-
rhcre is a
listance of
of eighty
might be

|ary, 1859.
jge num-
ick them.
[, Tingane,
:d to open
their cot-

liles in a

Duble that

lose of the

JRain pre-

Irapid rate

Ixhey here
lief, whose
ioctor that

B few years before his little daughter was kidnapped, and was now a
slave to the padre at Tele, asking him, if possible, to ransom the child.

From this point Drs. Livingstone and Kirk proceeded on foot in a
northerly direction to I^ke Shirwa. The natives turned out from theii
villages, sounding notes of defiance on their drums ; but the efforts to
|)ersuade them that their visitors came as friends were successful, and the
lake was discovered on the i8th of April. From having no oiitiet, the
water is brackish, with hilly islands rising out of it. The country arouiui
appeared very beautiful and clothed with rich vegetation, with lofty
mountains eight thousand feet high near the eastern shore.

1 hey returned to Tete in June, and thence, after the steamer had been
repaired, proceeded to the Kongone, where they received provisions from
Her Majesty's Ship " Persian," which also took on board their Krumen,
as they were found useless for land journeys. In their stead a crew was
picked out from the Makololo, who soon learned to work the ship, and
who, besides being good travellers, could cut wood and require only
native food.

Searchiiijir tor a Great Lake.

Frequent showers fell on their return voyage up the Zambesi, and the
vessel being 'eaky, the cabin was constantly flooded, both fro i shove
and below. They were visited on their way up by Paul, a relative of the
rebel Mariano, who had just returned from Mozambique. He told them
that the Portuguese knew nothing of the Kongone before they had dis-
covered it, always supposing that the Zambesi entered the sea at Quill i-
mane. A second trip up the Shire was performed in the middle of
August, when the two doctors set out in search of I^ke Nyassa, about
which they had heard. The river, though narrow, is deeper than the
Zambesi, and more easily navigated.

Marks of large game were seen, and one of the Makololo, who had
jjone on shore to cut wood, was suddenly charged at by a solitary buffalo.
He took to flight, pursued by the maddened animal, and was scarcely six
feet before the creature when he reached the bank and sprang into the
river. On both banks a number of hippopotamus-traps were seen.

The animal feeds on grass alone, its enormous lip acting like a mow-
ing machine, forming a path before it as it feeds. Over these paths the
natives construct a trap, consisting of a heavy beam, five or six feet long
witii a spcar-head at one end, covered with poison. This weapon is hung
to a forked pole by a rope which leads across the path, and is held by a
catch, set free as the animal treads upon it. A hippopotamus was seen
which, being frightened by the s* "^nicr, rushed on shore and ran imme-

•'4 ■■

p't-i

JfU

WONDERS OP THE TROPICS.

?■

'f.

diatcly under one of these traps, when down came vhe heavy beam on
his head.

The leaks in the steamer increased till the cabin became scarcely hab-
itable. The nei<;hborhood of Chibisa's village wa.s reached late in August.
Failure to Recover a Kidnapped Child.

The doctor had now to send word to the chief that his attempts to
recover his child had failed, for, though he had offered twice the value of
a slave, the little girl could not be found, the padre having sold her to a
distant tribe of Bazizulu. Though this padre was better than the average,
he appeared very indifferent about the matter.

On the 28th of August, an expedition consisting of four whites, thirty-
ix Makololo, and two guides left the ship in hopes of discovering Lake
Nyassa. The natives on the road were very eager to trade. As soon is
they found that the strangers would pay for their provisions in cotton
cloth, women and girls were set to grind and pound meal, and the men
and boys were seen chasing screaming fowl over the village. A head man
brought some meal and other food for sale ; a fathom of blue cloth was
got out, when the MakoloU) head man, thinking a portion was enough,
was procee ling to tear it. On this the native remarked that it was a
pi } to c'lt r>u 1; a nice dress for his wife, and he would rather bring more
meal. " All right," . ; ul the Makololo, " but look, the cloth is very wide,
so see that the basket which carries the meal be wide too, and add a
chicken to make the meal taste nicely."

The highland women of these regions all wear X\\e peleie, or lip-ring,
before described. An old chief, vi Irrn asked why such things were worn,
replied: "For beauty; men have beards and whiskers, women have
none. What kind of creature would a woman be without whiskers and
without the pelele .? "

•* The Fearful Cry from the Hlvcr."

When, as they calculated, they were a day's march from Lake Nyassa,
thechief of the village assuied them positively that no lake had ever been
heard of there, and that the river Shire stretched on, as they saw it, to a
distance of two months, and then came out between two rocks which
towered to the skies. The Makololo looked blank, and proposed return-
ing to the ship. " Never mind," said the doctor, " we will go on and sco
these wonderful rocks."

Their head man, Massakasa, declared that there must be a lake,
because it was in the white men's books, and scolded the natives fur
speaking a falsehood. They then admitted that there was a lake. The
chief brought them a present in the evening. Scarcely had Jhe gone

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

]65

im on

^ hab-
ugust.

ipts to
alue of
:r to a
/erage,

thirty-
f Lake
soon IS
cotton
;he men
:ad man
)th was
enough,
it was a
ig more
ry wide,
1 add a

lip-ring,
re worn,
:n have
lers and

iNyassa,

/er been

it, to a

whicli

return-

1 and SCO

a lake,
tivcs for
le. The

le gone

when a fearful cry arose from the river ; a crocodile had carried off his
principal wife The Makololo, seizing their arms, rushed to the rescue;
but it was too late.

Many of the natives show great coMrage and skill in capturing these
formidable monsters which infest the rivers of Africa. The following
graphic narrative by a traveller connected with an exploring party in the
Tropics relates the manner in which the natives sometimes take their
prey.

" You come and see Igubo kill de crocodile," 1 heard Timbo say t' Leo

"IGUBO TLUNGED HIS KNIFE INTO THE MONSTER's SIDE."

and Natty. These were names of natives accompanying our expedition.

Ii^ubo had provided himself with a piece of one of the animals which
h ^ had brought home, and which had become no longer eatable. He
had fastened it to the end of a long rope, and his sons carried it down to
til!* water. Timbo and Leo, with the two bovs, set off after them ; and,
taking my rifle, I followed to see what would happen.

On reaching the river, Igubo threw in the meat as far as he could, fas-
tening the end of the rope to the trunk of a tree. Then, on his making
a sign to us to hide ourselves, we retired behind some bushes. In a .short
time the rope was violently tugged, and Igubo, throwing off his scanty

i;i|j;

1 m

H : 1 <

* ''^

l(i6

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

garments, drew his sharp knife from its sheath, and sprang into the M^fiter.
I could not refraim from crying out, and entreating him to come back;
but he paid no heed to me, and swam on.

Close Combat with a Crocodile.

Presently he disappeared, and I felt horror-struck at the thought that
a crocodile had seized him; but directly afterwards the snout of the huge
monster appeared above the water, Igubo rising at the same time directly
behind it. The creature, instead of attempting to turn, made towards
the bank, at a short distance off. Igubo followed ; and I saw his
hand raised, and his dagger descend into the side of the crea-
ture. Still the crocodile did not attempt to turn, but directly after-
wards reaching the bank, climbed up it. Igubo followed, and again
plunged his knife into the monster's side. Flvery instant I expected to
see him seized by its terrific jaws ; but the creature seemed terror-stricken,
and made no attempt at defence.

Again mid a^ain the black plunged in his knife, while the crocodile
vainly endeavored to escape. The next instant Igubo was on its back,
and the creature lay without moving. A few minutes only had passed.
It opened its vast jaws, each time more languidly than before, till at
length it sank down, and, after a kw struggles, was evidently dead.
Igubo, springing up, flourished his knife over his head in triumph. Leo,
running to the canoe, began to launch it. We all jumped in, and pad-
dled off to the bank, Timbo bringing the rope with him. We fastened
it round the crocodile's neck, and towed the body in triumph to the shore,
up which we hauled it.

Strniij^e Crcatiiren Hatched from Kggn,

" Igubo say we find eggs not far off," said Timbo, as if doubting it.

Natty and his brother, at a sign from their father, began at once
hunting about, and in a short time called us to them. There was a large
hole in the bank concealed by overhanging bushes. It was full of eggs,
about the size of those of a goose. On counting them we found no less
than sixty. The shell was white and partially elastic, both ends being
exactly the same size. The nest was about four yards from the water.
A. pathway led up to it ; and Igubo told Timbo, that after the crocodile
has deposited her eggs, she covers them up with about four feet of earth,
and returns afterwards to clear it away, and to assist the young out of the
shells. After this, she leads them to the water, where she leaves them to
catch small fish for themselves.

At a little distance was another nest, from which the inmates had just
been set free ; and on a sandbank a little way down we caught sight of a

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

167

nunn^Ci of the little monsters crawling about. They appeared in r way
afraid of us as we approached, and Natty and his brother speared several.
They were about ten inches long, with yellow eyes, the pupil being merely
a perpendicular slit. They were marked with transverse stripes of pale
green and brown, about half an inch in width. Savage little monsters
they were, too ; for though their teeth were but partly developed, they
tinned round and bit at the weapon darted at them, uttering at the same
lime a sharp welp like that of a small puppy when it first tries to bark,
l^ubo could not say whether the mother crocodile eats up her young
occasionally, though, from the savage character of the creature, I should
think it very likely that she does, If pressed by hunger.

As it is well known, the ichneumon has the reputation on the banks
of the Nile of killing young crocodiles ; but Igubo did not know whether
tiiey ever do so in his part of the world. He and his boys collected all
the eggs they could find, declaring that they were excellent for eating.
They however told us that they should only consume the yolk, as the
wiiite of the egg does not coagulate. When it is known what a vast
number of eggs a crocodile lays, it may be supposed that the simplest
way of getting rid of the creatures is to destroy them before they arc
hatched. It would seem almost hopeless to attempt to exterminate them
by killing only the old ones. However, I fancy they have a good many
enemies, and that a large number of the young do not grow up.

As we were walking along the bank, we saw, close to the water, a
young crocodile ju.st making his way into it; and Mango, leaping down,
captured the little creature. Even then it showed its disposition by at-
tempting to bite his fingers. On examining it, we found a portion of
yolk almo.st the size of a hen's egg fastened by a membrane to the
abdomen, which was doubtless left there as a supply of nourishment,
to enable the creature to support existence till it was strong enough
to catch fish for itself Igubo declared that they caught the fish by
moans of their broad scaly tails. The eggs, I should say, had a
strong internal membrane, and a small quantity only of lime in their
composition.

We had some difficulty in inducing our friends to believe the account
ve gave them of Igubo's exploit. He however undertook, if they were
not satisfied, to kill a crocodile in the same way another day.
Livingstone Discovers Lake Nyassa.

The expedition moving forward, on the l6th of September, 1859, the
long-looked-for Lake Nyassa was discovered, with hills rising on both
sides of it. Two months after this the lake was visited by Dr. Roscher,

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

who was unaware of Drs. Livingstone and Kirk's discovery ; unhappily
he was murdered on his road back towards the Rovuma.

The travellers were now visited by the chief of a village near the con-
fluence of tlie lake and the river, who invited them to form their camp
under a magnificent banyan-tree, among the roots of which, twisted into
the shape of a gigantic arm-chair, four of the party slept. The chief told
them that a slave party, led by Arabs, was encamped near at hand; and in
the evening a villainous set of fellows, with long muskets, brought several
young children for sale ; but, finding that the travellers were English,
Ithey decamped, showing signs of fear. The people of the Manganja
tribe, amidst whom they were now travelling, showed much suspicion of
thejif object, saying that parties had come before with the same sort of
plau*it>le story, and had suddenly carried off a number of their people.
To a'Uaf these suspicions, Livingstone thought it best at once to return
to the s})ip.

Soon at'ierwards Dr. Kirk and Mr. Rae, the engineer, set off with
guides to go across the country to Tete, the distance being about one
hundred mile*. From want of water they suffered greatly, while the
tse/se infested the district.

Livingstone h,ad resolved to visit his old friend Sekeletu; but, finding
that before the new crop came in, food could not be obtained beyond the
Kebrabasa, he returned m the " Ma- Robert " once more to the Kongone.
They found Major Sic.ard at Mazaro, he having come there with tools
and slaves to build a custom-house and fort.

A BAre-faced Fraud.

After this trip, the poor " Asthmatic " broke down completely ; she was
therefore laid alongside the island of Kanyimbe, opposite Tete, end placed
under the charge of two English sailors. They were furnished with a
supply of seeds to form a garden, both to afford them occupation and
food.

Active preparations were now made for the intended journey westward;
cloth, beads, and brass wire were formed into packages, with the bearers
name printed on each.

The Makololos who had been employed by the expedition received
their wages. Some of those who had remained at Tete had married,
and resolved to continue where they were. Others did not leave with
the same good will they had before exhibited, and it was doubtful,
if attacked, whether they would not run to return to their lately formed
friends.

All arrangements had been concluded by the 15th of May, i860, and

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

169

igone.
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the journey was commenced. As the Banyai, who live on the right
bank, were said to levy heavy fines, the party crossed over to the left.

Livingstone was stopping near the Kebrabasa village, when a man ap-
peared, who pretended that he was a poruioro; that is, that he could
change himself into a lion whenever he chose — a statement his country-
men fully believed. Sometimes the pondoro hunts for the benefit of the
villagers, when his wife takes him some medicine which enables him to
change himself back to a man. She then announces what game has
been killed, and the villagers go into the forrest to bring it home. The
people believe also that the souls of the departed chiefs enter into lions.
One night, a buffalo having been killed, a lion came close to the camp,
when the Makololo declared that he was a pondoro, and told him that he
ought to be ashamed of himself for trying to steal the meat of strangers.
The lion, however, disregarding their addresses, only roared louder than
ever, though he wisely kept outside the bright circle of the camp-fires.
A little strychnine was placed on a piece of meat and thrown to him,
after which he took his departure, and was never again seen.

A Hostile Cliief Conciliated.

Again passing Kebrabasa, the travellers enjoyed the magnificent moun-
tain scenery in this neighborhood, and came to the conclusion that not
only it, but the Morumbwa could, when the river rises, be passed, so as
to allow of a steamer being carried up to run on the upper Zambesi.

On the 20th of June they reached the territory of the chief Mpende,
who had, on Livingstone's journey to the East Coast, threatened to attack
him. Having in the mean time heard that he belonged to a race who
love black men, his conduct was nowcompletely changed, and he showed
every desire to be friendly. Game was abundant, and lions were especi-
ally numerous.

After visiting Zumbo, Dr. Kirk was taken dangerously ill. He got
better on the high ground, but immediately he descended into the valley
he always felt chilly. In six days, however, he was himself again, and
able to march as well as the rest. Again abundance of honey was ob-
tained through the means of the " honey guide." The bird never de-
ceived them, always guiding them to a hive of bees, though sometimes
there was but little honey in it. On the 4th of August the expedition
reached Moachemba, the first of the Batoka villages, which owe allegiance
to Sekeletu. From thence, beyond a beautiful valley, the columns of
vapor rising from the Victoria Falls, upwards of twenty miles away,
could clearly be distinguished.

At the village opposite Kalai the Malokolo head man, Mashotlane,

:■ 1

170

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

if,,'

paid the travellers a visit. He entered the hut where they were seated,
a little boy carrying a three-legged stool. In a dignified way the chief
took his seat, presenting some boiled hippopotamus meat. Having then
taken a piece himself, he handed the rest to his followers. He had lately
been attacking the Batoka, and when the doctor represented to him the
wrongfulness of the act he defended himself by declaring that they had
killed some of his companions. Here also they found Pitsane, who had
been sent by Sekeletu to purchase horses from a band of Griquas.

Famous Batoka Tribe.

A description of the Batokas will be of interest in this connection.
There are two distinct varieties ; of whom those living on low-lying sands
such as the banks of the Zambesi, are very dark, while those of the higher
lands are light brown. Their character seems to differ with their com-
plexions, the former variety being dull, stupid, and intractable, while the
latter are comparatively intellectual.

They do not improve their personal appearance by an odd habit ot
depriving themselves of their upper incisor teeth. The want of these
teeth makes the corresponding incisors of the lower jaw project outward,
and force the lip with them ; so that even in youth they all have an
aged expression of countenance. Knocking out these teeth is part of i
ceremony which is practiced on both sexes when they are admitted into
the ranks of men and women, and is probably the remains of some
religious rite. The reason which they give is absurd enough, namely,
that they like to resemble oxen, which have no upper incisors, and not
to have all their teeth like zebras'. It is probable, however, that this state-
ment may be merely intended as an evasion of questions which they think
themselves bound to parry, but which may also have reference to the
extreme veneration for oxen which prevails in the African's mind.

In spite of its disfiguring effect, the custom is universal among the
various sub-tribes of which the Batoka are composed, and not even the
definite commands of the chief himself, nor the threats of punishment,
could induce the people to forego it. Girls and lads would suddenly
make their appearance without their teeth, and no amount of questioning
could induce them to state when, and by whom, they were knocked out.
Fourteen or fifteen is the usual age for performing the operation.

Hair Done Up in Style.

Their dress is a little remarkable, especially the mode in which some of
them arrange their hair. The hair on the top of the head is drawn and
plastered together in a circle some six or seven inches in diameter. By
dint of careful training, and plenty of grease and other appliances, it is

AFRICAN CHIEF WITH SHIELD AND WAR-CLUB.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

at last formed into a cone some eight or ten inches in height, and slightly
leaning forward. In some cases the cone is of wonderful height, the head
man of a Batoka village wearing one which was trained into a long spike
that projected a full yard from his head, and which must have caused
him considerable inconvenience. In this case evidently other materials
were freely mixed with the hair ; and it is said that the long hair of
various animals is often added, so as to mingle with the real growth, and
aid in raising the edifice. Around the edges of this cone the hair is
shaven closely, so that the appearance of the head is very remarkable, and
somewhat ludicrous.

One of this tribe named Mantanyani accompanied Dr. Livingstone.
He was a singularly skilful boatman, and managed an ordinary whaling
boat as easily as one of his own canoes. The ornament which he wears
in his hair is a comb made of bamboo. It was not manufactured by him-
self, but was taken from Shimbesi's tribe on the Shire, orSheereh River.
He and his companions forced the boat up the many rapids, and, on being
interrogated as to the danger, he said that he had no fears, for he could
swim like a fish, and that, if by any mischance he should allow Mr. Baines
to fall overboard and be drowned, he should never dare to show his face
to Livingstone again.

Mr. Baines remarks in his notes, that Mantanyani ought to have made
a good sailor, for he was not only an adept at the management of boats,
but could appreciate rum as well as any British tar. It so happened that
at night, after the day's boating was over, grog was served out to the men,
and yet for two or three nights Mantanyani would not touch it. Accord-
ingly one night the following colloquy took place : —

" Mantanyani, non quero grog ?" (That is, cannot you take grog ?)

" Non quero." (I cannot.)

" Porquoi non quero grog ?" (Why cannot you take grog ?)

" Garafifa poco, Zambesi munta." (The bottle is little and the Zambesi
is big.)

The hint was taken, and rum unmixed with water was offered tc Man-
tanyani, who drank it off like a sailor.

Xo Talking nor Whistling- Allowed.

A spirited account of the skill of the natives in managing canoes is
given by Livingstone in " The Zambesi and its Tributaries." The oanoe
belonged to a man named Tuba-Mokoro, or the " Canoe-smasher," a
rather ominous, but apparently undeserved title, inasmuch as he proved
to be a most skilful and steady boatman. He seemed almost to be modest,
for he took no credit to himself for his management, but attributed his

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AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

173

success entirely to a certain charm or medicine which he had, and which
he kept a profound secret. He was employed to take the party through
the rapids to an island close to the edge of the great Smoke Sounding
Falls, now called the Victoria Falls. This island can only be reached
when the water happens to be very low, and, even in that case, none but
the most experienced boatmen can venture so near to the Fall, which is
double the depth of Niagara, and a mile in width, formed entirely by a
vast and sudden rift in the basaltic bed of the Zambesi.

Before entering the race of water, we were requested not to speak, as
our talking might diminish the value of the medicine, and no one with
such boiling, eddying rapids before his eyes would think of disobeying
the orders of a " canoe-smasher." It soon became evident that there
was sound sense in the request of Tuba, though the reason assigned
was not unlike that of the canoe man from Sesheke, who begged one of
our party not to whistle, because whistling made the wind come.

It was the duty of the man at the bow to look out ahead for the proper
course, and, when he saw a rock or a snag, to call out to the steersma*.
Tuba doubtless thought that talking on board might divert the attention
of his steersman at a time when the neglect of an order, or a slight mis-
take, would be sure to spill us all into the chafing river. There were
places where the utmost exertions of both men had to be put forth in
order to force the canoe to the only safe part of the rapid and to prevent
it from sweeping broadside on, when in a twinkling we should have found
ourselves among the plotuses and cormorants which are engaged in ciiv-
ing for their breakfast of small fish.

«* We Struck Hard."
At times it seemed as if nothing could save us from dashing in our
headlong race against the rocks, which, now that the river was low,
jutted out of the water; but, just at the very nick of time. Tuba passed
the word to the steersman, and then, with ready pole, turned the canoe a
little aside, and we glided swiftly past the threatened danger. Never
was canoe more admirably managed. Once only did the medicine seem
to have lost something of its efficacy.

We were driving swiftly down, a black rock over which the white foam
flew lay directly in our path, the pole was planted against it as readily
as ever, but it slipped just as Tuba put forth his strength to turn
the bow oflf. We struck hard, and rere half full ol water in a moment.
Tuba recovered himself as speedily, shoved off the bow, and shot the
canoe into a still, shallow place, to bail the water out. He gave us to
understand that it was not the medicine which was at fault — that had lost

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174

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

none of its virtue ; the accident was owing to Tuba having started with-
out his breakfast. Need it be said that we never let Tuba go without that
meal again.

Among the Batokas is a body of men called in their own language
the Go-nakeds. These men never wear an atom of any kind of clothing,
but are entirely naked, their only coat being one of red ochre. These,
Go-nakeds are rather a remarkable set of men, and why they should
voluntarily live without clothing is not very evident. Some travellers
think that they are a separate order among the Batoka, but this is not at
all certain. It is not that they are devoid of vanity, for they are extremely
fond of ornaments upon their heads, which they dress in various fa itastic
ways. The conical style has already been mentioned, but they have
many other fashions. One of their favorite modes is, to plait a fillet of
bark, some two inches wide, and tie it round the head in diadem fashion.
They then rub grease and red ochre plentifully into the hair, and fasten
it to the fillet, which it completely covers. The head being then shaved
as far as the edge of the fillet, the native looks as if he were wearing a
red, polished forage-cap.

Rings of iron wire and beads are worn round the arms; and a fash-
ionable member of this order thinks himself scarcely fit for society unless
he carries a pipe and a small pair of iron tongs, with which to lift a coal
from the fire and kindle his pipe, the stem of which is often ornamented
by being bound with polished iron wire.

Very Polite Savagres.

The Go-nakeds seem to be as devoid of the sense of shame as their
bodies are of covering. They could not in the least be made to see that
they ought to wear clothing, and quite laughed at the absurdity of such
an idea; evidently looking on a proposal to wear clothing much as we
should entertain a request to dress ourselves in plate armor.

The pipe is in constant requisition among these men, who are seldom
seen without a pipe in their mouths, and never without it in their posses
sion. Yet, whenever they came into the presence of their white visitors,
they always asked permission before lighting their pipes, an innate
politeness being strong within them. Their tobacco is exceedingly
powerful, and on that account is much valued by other tribes, who will
travel great distances to purchase it from the Batoka. It is also i^ery
cheap, a few beads purchasing a sufficient quantity to last even these
inveterate smokers for six months.

Their mode of smoking is very peculiar. They first take a whiff after
the usual manner, and puff out the smoke. But, when they have expelled

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

175

neaHy the whole of the smoke, they make a kind of catch at the last
tiny wreath, and swallow it. This they are pleased to consider the very
essence or spirit of the tobacco, which is lost if the smoke is exhaled in
the usual manner.

The Batoka are a polite people in their way, though they have rather
an odd method of expressing their feelings. The ordinary mode of sal-
utation is for the women to clap their hands and produce that undulating
sound which has already been mentioned, and for the men to stoop and
clap their hands on their hips. But, when they wish to be especially
respectful, they have another mode of salutation. They throw them-
selves on their backs, and roll from side to side, slapping the outside
of their thighs vigorously, and calling out " Kina-bomba! kina-bomba !"
with great energy, which has already been described. Livingstone says,
• that he never could accustom his eyes to like the spectacle of great naked
men wallowing on their backs and slapping themselves, and tried to stop
them. They, however, always thought that he was not satisfied with the
heartiness of their reception, and so rolled about and slapped themselves
all the more vigorously. This rolling and slapping seems to be reserved
for the welcoming of great men, and, of course, whenever the Batoka
present themselves before their chief, the performance is doubly vigorous.

Blacks who Stand on Ceremony.

When a gift is presented, it is etiquette for the donor to hold the present
in one hand, and to slap the thigh with the other, as he approaches the
person to whom he is about to give it. He then delivers the gift, claps
his hands together, sits down, and then strikes his thighs with both hands.
The same formalities are observed when a return gift is presented ; and so
tenacious are they of this branch of etiquette, that it is taught regularly
to children by their parents.

They are an industrious people, cultivating wonderfully large tracts of
land with the simple but effective hoe of their country. With this hoe,
which looks something like a large adze, they not only break up the
ground, but perform other tasks of less importance, such as smoothing
the earth as a foundation for their beds. Some of these fields are so large,
that the traveller may walk for hours through the native corn, and scarce-
ly come upon an uncultivated spot. The quantity of corn which is grown
is very Jarge, and the natives make such numbers of granaries, that their
villages seem to be far more populous than is really the case. Plenty, in
consequence, reigns among this people. But it is a rather remarkable
fact that, in spite of the vast quantities of grain, which they produce, they
cannot keep it in store. '

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176

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The corn has too many enemies. In the first place, the neighboring

tribes are apt to send out maurading parties, who prefer stealing the corn

which their industrious neighbors have grown and stored to cultivating

the ground for themselves. Mice, too, are very injurious to the corn.

But against these two enemies the Batoka can tolerably guard, by tying

up quantities of corn in bundles of grass, plastering them over with clay.

and hiding them in the low sand islands left by the subsiding waters of

the Zambesi.

Destructive Insects.

But the worst of all enemies is the native weevil, an insect so small that
no precautions are available against its ravages, and which, as we too
often find in this country, destoys an enormous amount of corn in a very
short time. It is impossible for the Batoka to preserve their corn more
than a year, and it is as much as they can do to make it last until the
next crop is ready.

As therefore, the whole of the annual crop must be consumed by them-
selves or the weevil, they prefer the former, and what they cannot eat
they make into beer, which they brew in large quantities, and drink
abundantly ; yet they seldom, if ever, it\Joxicate themselves, in spite of
the quantities which they consume. This beer is called by them either
" boala " or " pombe," just as we speak of beer or ale ; and it is sweet in
flavor, with just enough acidity to render it agreeable. Even travellers
soon come to like it, and its effect on the natives is to make them plump
and well nourished. The Batoka do not content themselves with simply
growing corn and vegetables, but even plant fruit and oil-bearing trees —
a practice which is not found among the other tribes.

Possibly on account of the plenty with which their land is blessed,
they are a most hospitable race of men, always glad to see guests, and
receiving them in the kindest manner. If a traveller passes through a
village, he is continually hailed from the various huts with invitations to
eat and drink, while the men welcome the visitor by clapping their hands,
and the women by " luUilooing." They even feel pained if the stranger
passes through the village without being entertained. When he halts in
a village for the night, the inhabitants turn out to make him comfortable ;
some running to fetch fire-wood, others bringing jars of water, while
some engage themselves in preparing the bed, and erecting a fence to
keep off the wind.

Brave Hunters.

They are skilful and fearless hunters, and are not afraid even of the
elephant or buffalo, going up closely to these formidable animals, and

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AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI

177

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killing them with large spears, A complete system of game-laws is in
operation among the Bato'a. not for the purpose of prohibiting the chase
of certain game, but in order to settle the disposal of the game when
killed. Among them, the man who inflicts the first wound on an animal
'aas the right to the spoil, no matter how trifling maybe the wound which
he inflicts. In case he does not kill the an mal himself, he is bound to
give to the hunter who inflicts the fatal wound both legs of one side.

Ai to the laws which regulate ordinary life, there is but little that calls
for special notice, except a sort of ordeal for which they have a great
veneration. This is called the ordeal of the Muave, and is analogous to
the corsned and similar ordeals of the early ages of England. The dread
of witchcraft is very strong here, as in other parts of Southern Africa;
but among the Batoka the accused has the opportunity of clearing him-
self by drinking a poisonous preparation called muave. Sometimes the
accused dies from the draught, and in that ca^e his guilt is clear ; but in
others the poison acts as an emetic, which is supposed to prove his
innocence, the poison finding no congenial evil in the body, and therefore
being rejected.

No one seems to be free from such an accusation, as is clear from Living-
stone's account. Near the confluence of the Kdpoe the Mambo, or chief,
with some of his head-men, came to our sleeping-place with a present,
Their foreheaas were smeated with white flour, and an unusual serious-
ness marked their demeanor. Shortly before our arrival they had been
accused of witchcraft: conscious of innocence, they accepted the ordeal,
and undertook to drink the poisoned muave. For this purpose they made
a journey to the sacred hill of Nehomokela, on which repose the bodies
of their ancestors, and, after a solemn appeal to the unseen spirit to attest
the innocence of their children, they swallowed the muave, vomited, and
were therefore declared not guilty.

Belief in Future Existence.

It is evident that they believe that the soul has a continued existence,
and that the spirits of the departed know what those they have left be-
hind them are doing, and are pleased or not, according as their deeds are
TQod or evil. This belief is universal. The owner of a large canoe ru-
fused to sell it because it belonged to the spirit of his father, who helped
him when he killed the hippopotamus. Another, when the bargain for
his canoe was nearly completed, seeing a large serpent on a branch of a
tree overhead, refused to complete the sale, alleging that this was the
spirit of his father, come to protest against it.

Some of the Batoka believe that a medicine should be prepared which

178

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

would cure the bite of the tsetse, that small but terrible fly which makes
such destruction among the cattle, but has no hurtful influence on man-
kind. This medicine was discovered by a chief, whose son Moyara
showed it to Livingstone. It consisted chiefly of a plant, which was ap-
parently new to botanical science. The root was peeled, and the pecf
sliced and reduced to powder, together with a dozen or two of the
tsetse themselves. The remainder of the plant is also dried. When an
animal shows symptoms of having been bitten by the tsetse, some of the
powder is administered to the animal, and the rest of the dried plant is
burned under it so as to fumigate it thoroughly. Moyara did not assert
that the remedy was infallible, but only stated that if a herd of cattle were
to stray into a district infested with the fly, some of them would be saved
by the use of the medicine, whereas they would all die without it.

Sweet Sounds of Music.

The Batoka are fond of using a musical instrument that prevails, with
some modifications, over a considerable portion of Central Africa. In its
simplest form it consists of a board, on which are fixed a number of flat
wooden strips, which, when pressed down and suddenly released, pro-
duce a kind of musical tone. In fact, the principle of the sansa is exactly
that of our musical-boxes, the only difference being that the teeth, or
keys, of our instrument are steel and that they are sounded by little pegs
and not by the fingers. Even among this one tribe there are great dif-
ferences in the formation of the sansa.

The best and most elaborate form is that in which the sounding-board
of the sansa is hollow, in order to increase the resonance; and the keys
are made of iron instead of wood, so that a really musical sound is pro-
duced. Moreover, the instrument is enclosed in a hollow calabash, for
the purpose of intensifying the sound; and both the sansa and the cala-
bash are furnished with bits of steel and tin, which make a jingling
accompaniment to the music. The calabash is generally covered with
carvings. When the sansa is used, it is held with the hollow or orna-
mented end toward the player, and the keys are struck with the thumbs
the rest of the hand being occupied in holding the instrument.
• African Poets,

This carious instrument is used in accompanying songs. Livingstone
mentions that a genuine native po^t attached himself to the party, an&
composed a poem in honor of the white men, singing it whenever they
halted, and accompanying himself on the sansa. At first, as he did not
know much about his subject, he modestly curtailed his poem, but ex-
tended it day by day, until at last it became quite a long ode. There was

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AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

179

an evident rhythm in it, each line consisting of five syllables. Another
native poet was in the habit of solacing himself every evening with an
extempore song, in which he enumerated everything that the white men
had dc.ie. He was not so accomplished a poet as his brother improvisa-
tore* and occasionally found words to fail him. However, his sanvz
lielped him when he was at a loss for a word, just as the piano helps oul
an unskilled singer when at a loss for a note.

The Batoka are remarkable for their clannish feeling ; and, when a
large party are travelling in company, those of one tribe always keep
together, and assist each other in every difficulty. Also, if they should
happen to come upon a village or dwelling belonging to one of their own
tribe, they are sure of a welcome and plentiful hospitality.

The Batoka appear from all accounts to be rather a contentious people,
quarrelsome at home and extending their strife to other villages. In
domestic fights — that is :n combats between inhabitants of the same
village — the antagonists are careful not to inflict fatal injuries. But when
village fights against village, as is sometimes the case, the loss on both
sides may be considerable. The result of such a battle would be exceed-
ingly disagreeable, as the two villages would always be in a state of deadly
feud, and an inhabitant of one would not dare to go near the other.

Chronic Liars.

The Batoka, however, have invented a plan by which the feud is
stopped. When the victors have driven their opponents off the field, they
take the body of one of the dead warriors, quarter it, and perform a serres
of ceremonies over it. This appears to be a kind of challenge that they
are masters of the field. The conquered party acknowledge their defeat
by sending a deputation to ask for the body of their comrade, and, when
they receive it, they go through the same ceremonies ; after which peace
is supposed to be restored, and the inhabitants of the villages may visit
each other in safety.

Livingstone's informant further said, that when a warrior had slain an
enemy, he took the head, and placed it on an ant-hill, until all the flesh
was taken from the bones. He then removed the lower jaw, and wore it
as a trophy. He did not see one of these trophies worn, and evidently
thinks that the above account may be inaccurate. Indeed, Livingstutv
expressly warns the reader against receiving with implicit belief accounts
that are given by a native African. The dark interlocutor amiably desiixs
to please, and, having no conception of truth as a principle, says exactly
what he thinks will be most acceptable to the great white chief, on whom
he looks as a sort of erratic supernatural being.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

' Ask a native whether the mountains in his own district arc lofty, or

' gold is found there, and he will assuredly answer in the affirmative. So

he will if he be asked whether unicorns live.in his country, or whether

he knows of a race of tailed men, being only anxious to please, and not

thinking that the truth or falsehood of the answer can be of the least

zonsequence. If the white sportsman shoots at an animal, and makes ?

palpable miss, his dusky attendants are sure to say that the bullet went

through the animal's heart and that it only bounded away for a short

distance. " He is our father," .say the natives, *' and he would be dts-

■ pleased if we told him that he had missed." It is even worse with the

' slaves, who are often used as interpreters ; and it is hardly possible to

induce them to interpret with any modicum of truth.

The Expedition Halts.
The travellers landed at the head of Garden Island, and, as the doctor
had done before, peered over the giddy heights at the further end across
the chasm. The measurement of the chasm was now taken ; it was
found to be eighty yards opposite Garden Island, while the waterfall itself
was twice the depth of that of Niagara, and the river where it went over
the rock fully a mile wide. Charles Livingstone, who had seen Niagara,
pronounced it inferior in magnificence to the Victoria Falls.

The Batokas consider Garden Island and another further west as
sacred spots, and here, in days gone by, they assembled to worship the
'Deity.

Livingstone, on his former visit, had planted a number of orange-
trees and seeds at Garden Island, but though a hedge had been placed
round them, they had all been destroyed by the hippopotami. Others
were now put in. They, as was afterwards found, shared the same
fate.

They now proceeded up the river, and very soon met a party from
Sekeletu, who was now at Sesheke, and had sent to welcome then).
Afterward they entered his town. They were requested to take up their
quarters at the kotlar, or public meeting-place tree. During the day
vjsitors continually called on them, all complaining of the misfortunes
they had suffered. The condition of Sekeletu, however, was the most
lamentable. He had been attacked by leprosy, and it was said that his
fingers had become like eagles' claws, and his face so fearfully distorted
that no one could recognize him.

One of their head men had been put to death, it being supposed that
he had bewitched the chief The native doctor could do nothing for
him, but he was under the charge of an old doctress of the Manyeti

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

181

tribt, u'ho allowed no one to s£e him except his mother and uncle. He,
however, sent for Dr. Livingstone, who gladly went to him. He and Dr.
Kirk at once toid him that the disease was most difficult to cure, and that
he might rest assured that he had not been bewitched. They appliec^
Umar caustic externally And hydrate of potash internally, with satisfactory
esuits; so that in the course of a short time the poor chief's appearance
greatly improved.

How a Chief Thought to «Qet Rid of the Falls.

Although the tribe had been suffering from famine, the chief treated
his visitors with all the hospitality in his power. Some Benguela traders
had come up to Sesheke, intending probably to return from the Batoka
country to the east with slaves ; but the Makololo, however, had secured
all the ivory in that region. As the traders found that the trade in slaves
without ivoiy did not pay, they knew it would not be profitable to obtain
them, for Sekeletu would allow no slaves to be carried through his terri-
tory, and thus by his means an extensive slave-mart was closed.

Sekeletu was greatly pleased with the articles the doctor brought him
from England, and enquired whether a ship could not bring up the
remainder of the things which had been left at Tete. On being told that
possibly a steamer might ascend as far as Sinainanes, he enquired whether
a cannon could not blow away the Victoria Falls, so as to enable her to
reach Sesheke.

The Makololo, who had been sent down to Benguela, came to pay the
travellers a visit, dressed in well-washed shirts, coats and trousers, pa-ont
leather boots, and brown wide awakes on their heads. They had a long
conversation with their men about the wonderful things they had all seen.
Sekeletu, who took a great fancy to Dr. Kirk, offered him permission to
.select any part of the country he might choose for the establishment of
an English colony. Indeed, there is sufficient uncultivated ground on
the cool unpeopled highlands for a very large population.

A Tribe of Cattle Stealers.

The Makololo are apt to get into trouble by their propensity to .steal
cattle ; for if their marauding is sanctioned by the chief, they do not loul<
upon it as dishonorable.

The expedition left Sesheke on the 17th of September, i860, convoyet
jy Pitsane and Leshore. Pitsane was directed to form a hedge round
the garden at the falls on his way. When navigating the river, the canoe-
men kept close to the bank during the day for fear of being upset by the
hippopotami, but at night, when those animals are found near the shore,
they sailed down the middle of the stream. The canoes were wretched,

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AFLOAT ON THZ RIVER ZAMBESI.

183

and a strong wind blew against them, but their Batoka boatmen man-
aged them with great dexterity. Some of these men accompanied the
expedition the whole way to the sea.

On their passage down the river, in approaching Kariba Rapids, they
came upon a herd of upwards of thirty hippopotami. The canoe-men
^ re afraid of venturing among them, asserting that there "is sure to be
an ill-tempered one who would take a malignant pleasure in upsetting
<^he canoes. Several boys on the rocks were amusing themselves by
throwing stones at the frightened animals. One was shot, its body float-
ing down the current. A man hailed them from the bank, advising them
to let him pray to the Kariba gods that they might have a .safe passage
down the rapids, for, without his assistance they would certainly be
drowned. Notwithstanding, having examined the falls, seeing that canoes
might be caried down in safety, they continued their voyage. The na-
tives were much astonished to see them pass in safety without the aid of
the priest's intercession.

Recovering the Prize.

Here they found the hippopotamus which had been shot, and, taking
it in tow, told the villagers that if they would follow to their landing-
place, they should have most of the meat. The crocodiles, however,
lugged so hatd at it, that they were compelled to cast it adrift and let the
current float it down. They recovered the hippopotamus, which was cut
up at the place where they landed to spend the night. As soon as it was
dark, the crocodiles attacked the portion that was left in the water, tear-
ing away at it and lashing about fiercely with their tails.

A day or two afterwards they encamped near some pitfalls, in which
several bufialoes had shortly before been caught, and one of the animals
had been left. During the night the wind blew directly from the dead
buffalo to their sleeping-place, and a hungry lion which came to feed on
the carcass so stirred up the putrid mass and growled so loudly over his
feast, that their slumbers were greatly disturbed.

They feached Zumbo by the first of November. Here their men had
a scurvy trick played them by the Banyai. The Makololo had shot a
hippopotamus, when a number of the natives came across, pretending to
assist them in rolling it ashore, and advised them tb cast off the rope,
S3/ing that it was an encumbrance. All were shouting and talking, when
suddenly the carcass disappeared in a deep hole. The Makololo jumped
in after it, one catching the tail, another a foot, but down it went, and
they got but a lean fowl instead. It floated during the night, and was
found about a mile below, on the bank. The Banyai, however, there

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

disputed the right to it, and, rather than quarrel, the Makololo, after
taking a small portion, wisely allowed them to remain with the rest.

Saved by Gi^aspiiig llie Kock.

Believing that there was sufficient depth of water, they vi ntured down
Jie Kebrabasa Rapids. For .several miles they continued onward till
;he river narrowing, navigation became both difficult and dangerd;.-.
Two canoes passed safely down the narrow channel with an ugly whirl-
pool, caused by the water being divided by a rock in the centre. Living-
stone's canoe came next, and while it appeared to be drifting broadside
into the vortex, a crash was heard, and Kirk's canoe was seen dashed
against the perpendicular rock by a sudden boiling-up of the river, which
occurs at regular intervals. Kirk grasped the rock and saved him-
self, while his steersman, holding on to the same ledge, preserved the
canoe, but all its contents were lost, including the doctor's notes of the
journey, and botmical drawings of the fruit-trees of the«interior. After
this the party, having had enough of navigation, performed the remainder
of the journey on shore.

Tete was reached on the 23d of November, the expedition having been
absent rather more than six months. They were glad to find that the two
English sailors were in good health, and had behaved very well ; but their
farm had been a ftiilure. A few sheep and fowls had been left with them;
they had purchased more of the latter, and expected to have a good
supply of eggs, but they unfortunately also bought two monkeys, who
ate up all their eggs. One night a hippopotamus destroyed their vege-
table garden, the sheep ate up their cotton-plants, while the crocodiles
carried off the sheep, and the natives had stolen their fowls.

Having discovered that the natives have a mortal dread of the chame-
leon, one of which animals they had on board, they made good use of
their knowledge. They had learned the market price of provisions, and
determined to pay that and no more. When the traders, therefore, de-
manded a higher price and refused to leave the sheep till it was paid, the
chameleon was instantly brought out of the cabin, when the natives spran;.;
overboard, and made no further attempt to impose upon them. A re-
markable reptile this is, and we subjoin an accurate description of it.

The Fainoijis Chaiueleon.

One character of the chameleon consists in the tongue being cylindri«
cal, worm-like, capable of being greatly elongated, and terminating in a
fleshy tubercle, lubricated with a viscid saliva. Another appears in the
surface of the skin being covered with horny granules, instead of scales.
A third is seen in the deep and compressed form of the body, which is

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

surmounted by an acute dorsal ridge ; a fourth, in the tail being round,
tapering, and capable of grasping; and a fifth, in the parrot-like structure
of the feet, which have each five toes, divided into two opposing sets. —
three being placed outwardly and two inwardly, connected together as
^ar as the second joint, and armed with five sharp claws.
' The head of these animals is very large; and from the shortness ol tht
neck, it seems as if set upon the shoulders. The upper part generally
'presents an elevated central crust; and a ridged arch is over each orbit
to the muzzle. The internal organ of hearing is entirely concealed. The
mouth is very wide ; the teeth are sharp, small, and three-lobed. The
whole of the ball of each eye, except the pupil, is covered with skin, and
forms a single circular eyelid, with a central orifice. 1 he furrow between
the ball of the eye and the edge of the orbit is very deep ; and the eye-
lid, closely attached to the ball, moves as it moves. As each eye has an
independent power of motion, the axis of one eye may be seen directly
upwards or backwards, while that of the other is in a contrary direction
giving to the creature a strange and most ludicrous appearance.

The chameleon was once said to live on air ; but insects, slugs, and
such like creatures form its food. For their seizure its tongue is especially
adapted. With the exception of the fleshy tubercle forming its tip, it
consists of a hollow tube, which, when withdrawn into the throat, is
folded in qpon itself, somewhat in the way in which a pocket telescope is
shut up. When fully protruded, it reaches to a distance at least equal to
the chameleon's body; and is launched forth and retracted with equal
rapidity. An insect on a leaf at an apparently hopeless distance, or a
drop of water on a twig, is gone so instantaneously, that the spectator is
astonished. " I never knew," said an acute observer, " a chameleon I
long kept miss his aim but once, and then the fly was on the other side

of the glass."

Curious Shifting^ Colors.

The remote cause, says Weissenborn, of the difference of color in the
cwo latteral halves of the chameleon may, in most cases, be distinctly
-eferred to the manner in which the light acts upon the animal
1 he statement of Murray, that the side turned towards the light is always
of a darker color, is perfectly true. This rule holds good as well with
r-eference to the direct and diffused light of the sun, or moon, as to
artificial light. Even when the animal was moving in the walks of my
garden, and happened to come near enougli to the border to be shaded
by the box edging, that side (so shaded) Would instantly become less
darkly colored than the other. Now, as the light in these cases seldom

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

187

illumines exactly one lateral half of ihe animal in a more powerful manner
than the other, and as the middle line is constantly the line of demarca-
tion between the two different shades of color, we must evidently refer
the different effects to two different centres, from which the nervous cur-
yents can only radiate.

Over these centres, without doubt, the organ of vision immediately pre
jides; and, indeed, we ought not to wonder that the action of light has
3uch powerful effects on the highly irritable organization of the chameleon,
considering that the eye is most highly developed. The lungs are but
secondarily affected ; but they are likewise more strongly excited on the
darker side, which is constantly more convex than the other.
An Animal Like Two Glued Togretlier.

Notwithstanding the strictly symmetrical structure of the chameleon,
as to its two halves, the eyes move independently of each other, and con-
vey different impressions to their respective centres of perception. The
consequence is that, when the animal is agitated, its movements appear
like those of two animals glued together. Each half wishes to move its
own way, and there is no concordance of action. The chameleon, there-
fore, is not able to swim, like other animals: it is so frightened, if put into
water, that the faculty of concentration is lost, and it tumbles about as if
in a state of intoxication. On the other hand, when.the creature is undis-
turbed, the eye which receives the st ngest impression propagates it to
the common centre, and prevails upon the other eye to follow that impres-
sion, and directs itself to the same object. The chameleon, moreover, may
be asleep on one side and awake on the other. When cautiously approach-
ing a specimen at night, v/ith a candle, so as not to awaken the whole
animal, by the shaking of the room, the eye turned towards the flame
will open, and begin to move, and the corresponding side to change
color ; whereas the other side will remain for several seconds longer in
its torpid and unchangeable state, with its eye shut.

It was this singular creature that produced such an effect upon the
natives. It was regarded as something supernatural.

Livingstone found that the sailors at Tete had performed a gallant act.
They were aroused one night by a fearful ihriek, when they immediately
pushed off in their boat, supposing, as was found to be the case, that a
crocodile had cought a woman and was dragging her across a shallow
bank. Before they reached her, the reptile snapped off her leg. They
carried her on board, bandaged up her limb, bestowed Jack's usual
remedy for all complaints, a glass of grog, on her, and carried her to a
hut in the village. Next morning they found the bandages torn off and

188

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the poor creature left to die, their opinion being that it had been done
by her master, to whom, as she had lost a leg, she would be of no further
use, and he did not wish the expense of keeping her.

The following account is taken from the diary of an explorer in the
Kaffir country: " Yesterday, as tiie men were digging out the steamers,
which had become jammed by the floating rafts, they felt something
struggling beneath their feet. They immediately scrambled away in time
to avoid the large head of a crocodile that broke its way through the
tangled mass in which it had been jammed and held prisoner by the rafts.
The black soldiers, armed with swords and bill-hooks, immediately

INSTANTLY HE WAS DRAGGED FROM THE SADDLE.

attacked the crocodile, who, although freed from imprisonment, had not
exactly fallen into the hands of the Humane Society. He was quickly dis-
patched, and that evening his fle-sh gladdened the cooking-pots of thep-irt)-.
" I was amused with the aocount of this adventure given by various
officers who were eye-witnesses. One stated, in reply to my question as
to the length of the animal, ' Well, sir, I should not like to exaggerate,
but I should say it was forty-five feet long from snout to tail !' Another
witness declared it to be at least twenty feet ; but if one were seized by
such a creature he would be disposed to think that, whatever might be
its length, it is made up mostly of jaws."

AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI.

189

V\V\

From the graphic narrative of Mr. Grout, the missionary, we take the
following description of an exciting adventure:

Mr. Butler, a member of our mission, narrowly escaped from one of the
savage creatures with which the rivers abound. In going to one of the
stations, it was necessary for him to cross the Umkomazi. No natives
being at hand to manage the boat, he ventured to cross on horseback,
though the water was deep and turbid. As he went over safely, when he
returned the next day he again ventured into the river in the same way.
When about two-thirds of the was across, his horse suddenly kicked
and plunged, as if to disengage himself from his rider; and the next
moment an alligator, seized Mr, Butler's leg with his horrible jaws.
The river at this place is about one hundred and fifty yards wide, if
measured at right angles to the cu ent ; but from the place we enter to
the place we go out, the distance is three times as great. The water at
hfgh tide, when the river is not swollen, is from four to eight or ten
feet deep. On each side the banks are skirted with high grass and reeds.

Mr. Butler, when he felt the sharp teeth of the crocodile, clung to the
mane of bis horse with a death-hold. Instantly he was dragged from
the saddle : and both he and the horse were floundering in water, often
dragged entirely under, and rapidly going down stream. At first the
alligator drew them again to the middle of the river; but at last the horse
gained shallow water, and approached the shore. As soon as he was
within reach, natives ran to his assistance, and beat off the crocodile 'tYith
spears and clubs. «

Horse and Rider FrigrhtfuUy Mangrlcd."

Mr. Butler was pierced with five deep gashes, and had lost much
blood. He left all his garments, except shirt and coat, on the opposite
shore with a native who was to follow him ; but when the struggle
commenced, the native returned, and would not venture into the water
again. It was now dark ; and, without garments and weak from loss
of blood, he had seven miles to ride before he could reach the station oi
a brother missionary. He borrowed a blanket of a native ; and after two
hours succeded in reaching the station, more dead than alive.

His horse also was terribly mangled ; a foot square of the flesh and
skin was torn from his flanks. The animal, it is supposed, first seized
the horse ; and when shaken off, he caught Mr. Butler, first below the
knee, and then in the thigh, making five or six wounds, from two to four
inches long, and from one-half to two and a half inches wide. After a
severe illness, Mr. Butler recovered, but will not soon lose the marks of
this fast and loving friend's hold upon him.

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CHAPTER IX.
BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGER?.

Setting Out in a Leaky Vessel— A Losing Adventure — Bishop Mackenzie's Arrivrtl—
The " Pioneer" gets Aground— Description of a Well-known tribe— Farming in
Africa— Generous Hospitality— Remarkable Costumes— Elegant Tattooing— >
Natives that Seldom Wash— An African Dancing Party— Belief in Visits from
Departed Spirits— Burning Villages— Battle whh Ajawa Warriors -Transporting
the Boats Overland— Sudden and Terrific Storm— Air Thick with Midges —
Enormous Crocodiles— Camp Plundered by Thieves— Dangers Thicken — The
Expedition on its Return -Mrs. Livingstone's Arrival— Deaths of Bishop Mac-
kenzie and Mrs. Livingstone — Lonely Graves in a Strange Land— Bullets and
Poisoned Arrows — Immense Flocks of Beiutiful Birds— The Fiery Flamingo —
Wine from the Palm — A Bird's Extraordinary Nest— Odd Specimen of the Monkey
Tribes — Deserted Country — Lord Russell Recalls th*; Expedition — Alarm from
Savage Invaders — The " Pioneer" Disabled— Livingstone at Bombay.

NCE more, in December, the leaky *' Asthmatic " was got under
v 7, but every day fresh misfortunes happened to her, till Rae
declared : " She cannot be any worse than she is, sir."

He and his mate, Hutchings, had done their best to patch her
up, but her condition was past their skiU. She soon grounded on a sand-
bank and filled. The river rising, all that was visible the next day was
about six feet of her two masts. The property on board was, however,
saved, and the expedition spent their Chri-^tmas of 1 860 encamped on the
island of Chimba.

Canoes having been procured, they reached Senna late in the month.
They here saw a large party of slaves belonging to the commandant, who
had been up to trade with Mozelekatse, carrying a thousand muskets
and a large quantity of gunpowder, and bringing back ivory, ostrich
feathers, a thousand sheep and goats, and thirty head of fine cattle, and
in addition a splendid white bull, to show that he and the traders parted
friends. The adventure, however, was a losing one to the poor com-
mandant : a fire had broken out in the camp, and the ostrich feathers had
been burned ; the cattle liad died from the bite of the tsetse, as had the
white bull, and six hundred of the sheep had been eaten by the slaves^
they thinking more of their own comfort than their master's gain.

Proceeding down the river in boats, the expedition reached Congo
early in January, 1861. Here a flag-staff and a custom-house (a floorless
hut of mangrove stakes roofed with stakes'^ had been erected. The gar-
(190)

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

191

rison of the place being almost starved, the provisions of the expedition
also ran short, though they obtained game in abundance.

A Notable Arrival.

On the last day of the month the " Pioneer," the steamer which had
been sent to replace the " Asthmatic," appeared off the bar, but the bad
weather prevented her entering. At the same time two men-of-war
arrived, bringing Bishop Mackenzie at the head of the Oxford «nd Cam-
bridge mission to the tribes of the Shire and Lake Nyassa. It consisted
of six Englishmen and five colored men from the Cape. The bishop
wished at once to proceed up to Chibisa ; but the " Pioneer " was under
orders to explore the Rovuma, and it was ultimately arranged that the
members of the mission should be carried over to Johanna in the " Lyra "
man-of-war, while the bishop himself accompanied the expedition in the
"Pioneer."

They had reached the mouth of the Rovuma late in February. The
rainy season was already half over, and the river had fallen considerably.
The ^cenery was superior to that on the Zambesi. Eight miles from the
mouth the mangrove disappeared, and a beautiful range of well-wooded
hills rose on either side. Unhappily fever broke out, and the navigation
of the " Pioneer " fell to the charge of Dr. Livingstone and his com-
panions. The water falling rapidly, it was considered dangerous to
run the risk of detention in the river for a year, and the ship returned
down to the sea.

On their voyage back they touched at Mohilla, one of the Comoro
Islands, and from thence went on to Johanna, where they received the
bishop's followers, and proceeded back to the Kongone. Thence they at
once directed their course up the Zambesi to the Shire. The " Pioneer,"
it was found, drew too much water for the navigation of the river, and
she in consequence frequently grounded.

Among his many duties, Charles Livingstone was engaged in collecting
specimens of cotton, and upwards of three hundred pounds were thus
obtained, at a price of less than two cents a pounds, which showed that
cotton of -a superior quality could be raised by native labor alone, and
that but for the slave trade a large amount might be raised in the country.

Wherever they went they gained the confidence of the people, and
hitherto the expedition had been eminently successful. At Chigunda a
Manganja chief had invited the bishop to settle in his country near
Magomero, adding that there w^s room enough for both. This sponta-
neous invitation seemed to decide the bishop on the subject.

The country which this tribe inhabits is well and fully watered,

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192

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

abounding in clear and cold streams, which do not dry up even in the
dry season. Pasturage is consequently abundant, and yet the people do
not trouble themselves about cattle, allowing to lie unused tracts of land
which would feed vast herds of oxen, not to mention sheep and goats.

Their mode of goveinnunt is rather curious, and yet simple. The
country is tlivided into a number of districts, the head of which goes by
the title of Rundo. A great number of villages are under the command
of each Rundo, though each of the divisions is independent of the others,
and they do not acknowledge one cotnmon chief or king. The chief-
tainship is not restricted to the male sex, as in one of the districts a
woman named Nyango was the Rundo, and exercised her authority
judiciously, by improving the social status of the women throughout her
dominions. An annual tribute is paid to the Rundo by each village,
mostly consisting of one tusk of each elephant killed, and he in return is
bound to assist and protect them should they b^ threatened or attacked.

The Manganjas are an industrious race, being good workers in metal,
especially iron, growing cotton, making baskets, and cultivating the
ground, in which occupation both sexes usually share; and it is a pleas-
ant thing to .see men, women and children all at work together in the
fields, with perhaps the baby lying asleep in the shadow of a bush.

African Farmers.

They clear the forest ground exactly as is done in America, cutting
down the trees with their axes, piling up the branches and trunks in
heaps, burning them, and scattering the ashes over the ground by way
of manure. The stumps are left to rot in the ground, and the corn is
sown among them. Grass land is cleared in a different manner. The
glass in that land is enormou.sly thick and long. The cultivator
gathers a bundle into his hands, twists the ends together, and tics
them in a knot. He then cuts the roots with his adze-like hoe, so
as to leave the bunch of grass still standing, like a sheaf of
wheat. When a field has been entirely cut, it looks to a .stranger as if
it werp in harvest, tlie bundles of grass standing at intervals like the
giain shocks. Just before the rainy season comes on, the bundles are
fired, the ashes are roughly dug into the soil, and an abundant harvest is
the result.

The cotton is prepared after a very simple and slow fashion, the fibre
being picked by hand, drawn out into a " roving," partially twi.sted, and
then rolled up into a ball. It is the opinion oftho.se who have had prac-
tical experience of this cotton, that, if the natives could be induced to
plant and dress it in large quantities, an enormous market might be found

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

193

for it. The ** staple," or fibre, of this cotton is not so long as that in
America, and has a harsh, wooly feeling in the hand. But, as it is very
strong, and the fabrics made from it are very durable, the natives prefer
it to the foreign plant. Almost every Manganja family of importance
has its own little cotton patch, from half an acre to an acre in size, which
is kept carefully tended and free from weeds. The loom in which they
.vcave their simple cloth is very rude, and is one of the primitive forms
ol a weaver's apparatus. It is placed horizontally, and not vertically,
and the weaver has to squat on the ground when engaged in his work.
The shuttle is a mere stick, with the thread wound spirally round it, and,
when it is passed between the cross threads of the warp, the warp is
beaten into its place with a flat stick.

Unbounded Hospitality.

They are a hospitable people, and have a well-understood code of cere-
mony in the reception of strangers. In each village there is a spot called
the Boala, that is, a space of about thirty or forty yards diameter, which
is sheltered by baobab, or other spreading trees, and which is always
kept neat and clean. This is chiefly used as a place where the basket-
makers and others who are engaged in sedentary occupations can work
in company, and also serves as a meeting-place in evenings, where they
sing, dance, smoke, and drink beer after the toils of the day.

As soon as a stranger enters a village, he is conducted to the Boala,
where he takes his seat on the mats that are spread for him, and awaits
the coming of the chief man of the village. As soon as he makes his.
appearance, his people welcome him by clapping their hands in unison,,
u.id continue this salutation until he has taken his seat, accompanied by
his councillors. " Our guides," writes Livingstone, " then sit down in
front of the chief and his councillors, and both parties lean forward,
looking earnestly at each other. The chief repeats a word, such as
' Ambuiata * (our father or master), or ' Moio ' (life), and all clap their
hands. Another word is followed by two claps, a third by still more
clapping, when each touches the ground with both hands placed together.
Then all rise and lean forward with measured clap, and sit down again
A'ith clap, clap, clap, fainter and still fainter, until the last dies away, or is
orought to an end, by a smart loud clap from the chief. They keep
perfect time in this species of court etiquette."

This curious salutation is valued very highly, and the people are care-
fully instructed in it from childhood. The chief guide of the stranger
party then addresses the chief, and tells him about his visitors — who they
are, why they have come, etc. ; and mostly does so in a kind of blank

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194

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

verse — the power of improvising a poetical narrative being valued as
highly as the court salutations, and sedulously cultivated by all of any
pretensions to station. It is rather amusing at first to the traveller to
find that, if he should happen to inquire his way at a hut, his own guide
addresses the owner of the hut in blank verse, and is answered in the
same fashion.

Singular Costume.

The dress of this tribe is rather, peculiar, the head being the chief ps -
of the person which is decorated. Some of the men save themselves tin
trouble of dressing their hair by shaving it off entirely, but a greatei

. number take a pride in decorating it in various ways. The head-dress
which seems to be most admired is that in which the hair is trained to
resemble the horns of the buffalo. This is done by taking two pieces of
hide while they are wet and pliable, and bending them into the required

> shape. When the two horns are dry and hard, they are fastened on the
head, and the hair is trained over them, and fixed in its place by grease

• and clay. Sometimes only one horn is used, which projects immediately
over the forehead ; but the double horn is the form which is most in

•vogue.

Others divide their hair into numerous tufts, and separate them by
•winding round each tuft a thin bandage, made of the inner bark of a tree,
so that they radiate from the head in all directions, and produce an effect
•which is much valued by this simple race. Some draw the hair together
..toward the back of the head, and train it so as to hang down their backs
in a shape closely resembling the pigtail which was so fashionable an
ornament of the British sailor in Nelson's time. Others, again, allow the
hair to grow much as nature formed it, but train it to grow in heavy
•masses all round their heads.

The women are equally fastidious with the men, but have in addition
• a most singular ornament called the " the pelele." This is a ring that is
;not fixed into the ear or nose, but into the upper lip, and gives to the
;veareraa appearance that is most repulsive to an American.

Elaborate Tattooing.

In this .part of the country the sub-tribes are distinguished by certain
marks wherewith ithey tattoo themselves, and thereby succeed in stil'
farther disfiguring countenances which, if allowed to remain untouched,
would be agreeable enough. Some of them have a fashion of pricking
holes all over thqir faces, and treating the wounds in such a way that,
when they heal, the skin is raised in little knobs, and the face looks as if
'4: were covered .with .warts. Add to this fashion the pelele, and the

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BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

195

reader may form an opinion of the beauty of a fashionable woman. If
the object of fashion be to conceal age, this must be a most successful
fashion, as it entirely destroys the lines of the countenance, and hardens
and distorts the features to such an extent, that it is difficult to judge by
the face whether the owner be sixteen or sixty.

One of the women had her body most curiously adorned by tattooing

SPECIMEN OF ELEGANT TATTOOING.

md, indeed, was a remarkable specimen of Manganja fashion. She had
shaved all her head, and supplied the want of hair by a feather tuft over
her forehead, tied on by a band. From a point on the top of her fore-
head ran lines radiating over the cheeks as far as the ear, looking some-
thing like the marks on a New Zealander's face. This radiating principle
was carried out all over her body. A similar point was marked on each
shoulder blade, from which the lines radiate down and back and over the

■!;i.

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196

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

shoulders, and on the lower part of the spine and on each arm were other
patterns of a similar nature. She of course wore the pelele ; but she
seemed ashamed of it, probably because she was a travelled woman,
and had seen white men before. So when she was about to speak to
them, she retired to her hut, removed the pelele, and, while speaking,
held her hand before her mouth, so as to conceal the. ugly aperture in
her lip.

Cleanliness seems to be unsuitable to the Manganja constitution. They
could not in the least understand why travellers should wash themselves,
and seemed to be personally ignorant of the process. One very old man,
however, said that he did remember once to have washed himself; but
that it was so long ago that he had quite forgotten how he felt.

Afraid of Cold Water.

A very amusing use was once made of this antipathy to cold water.
One of the Manganjas took a fancy to attach himself to the expedition,
and nothing could drive him away. He insisted on accompanying them,
and annoyed them greatly by proclaiming in every village to which they
came, " These people have wandered ; they do not know where they are
going." He was driven off repeatedly ; but as soon as the march was
resumed, there he was, with his little bag over hisshouldei, ready to
proclaim the wandering propensities of the strangers, as usual. At last
a happy idea struck them. They threatened to take him down to the
river and wash him ; whereupon he made off in a fright, and never made
his appearance again. *

Perhaps in consequence of this uncleanliness, skin diseases are rife
among the Manganjas, and appear to be equally contagious and durable ;
many persons having white blotches over their bodies, and many others
being afflicted with a sort of leprosy, which, however, does not seem to
trouble them particularly. Even the fowls are liable to a similar disease,
and have their feet deformed by a thickening of the skin.

Sobriety seems as rare with the Manganjas as cleanliness; for they are
lotable topers, and actually contrive to intoxicate themselves on their
native beer, a liquid of so exceedingly mild a character that nothing but
strong determination and a capability of consuming vast quantities of
liquid would produce the desired effect. The beer is totally unlike
ordinary drink. In the first place, it is quite thick and opaque, and
looks much like gruel of a pinkish hue. It is made by pounding the
vegetating grain, mixing it with water, boiling it, and allowing it to
ferment. When it is about two days old, it is pleasant enough, having a
slightly swsetish-acid flavor^ which has the property of immediately

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BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

197

quenching thirst, and is therefore most valuable to the traveller, for
whose refreshment the hospitable people generally produce it.

As to themselves, there is some explanation of their intemperate
habits. They do not possess hops, or any other substance that will pre-
serve the beer, and in consequence they are obliged to consume the
whole brewing within a day or two. When, therefore, a chief has a
great brew of beer, the people assemble, and by day and night they con-
tinue drinking, drumming, dancing, and feasting, until the whole of the
beer is gone. Yet, probably on account of the nourishing qualities ot
the beer — which is, in fact, little more than very thin porridge-r-the
excessive drinking does not seem to have any injurious effect on the
people, many being seen who were evidently very old, and yet who had
been accustomed to drink beer in the usual quantities. The women
seem to appreciate the beer as well as the men, though they do not
appear to be so liable to intoxication. Perhaps the reason for this com-
parative temperance is, that their husbands do not give them enough of
it. In their dispositions they seem to be lively and agreeable, and have
a peculiarly merry laugh, which seems to proceed from the heart, and is
not in the least like the senseless laugh of the western negro.

People Who Tra^ i Xames.

In this part of the country, not on'y among the Manganjas but in
other tribes, the custom of changing names is prevalent, and sometimes
leads to odd results. One day a head-man named Sininyane was called
as usual, but made no answer ; nor did a third and fourth call produce
any result. At last one of his men replied that he was no longer Sinin-
yane, but Moshoshama, and to that name he at once responded. It then
turiiod out that he had exchanged names with a Zulu. The object of
the exchange is, that the two persons are thenceforth bound to consider
each other as comrades, and to give assistance in every way. If, for
example, Sininyane had happened to travel into the country where
Moshoshama lived, the latter was bound to treat him like a brother.

They seem to be an intelligent race, and to appreciate the notion of
a Creator, and of the immortality of the soul ; but, like most African
races, they cannot believe that the white and the black races have any-
thing in common, or th.:it the religion of the former can suit the latter.
They are very ready to admit that Christianity is an admirable religion for
white men, but will by no means be persuaded that it would be equally
good for themselves.

They have a hazy sort of idea of t/iei'f Creator, the invisible head chief
of the spirits, and ground their belief in the immortality of the soul on

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the fact that their departed relatives come and speak to them in their
dreams. They have the same idea of the muave poison that has already-
been mentioned ; and so strong is their belief in its efficacy that, in a dis-
pute, one man will challenge the other to drink muave ; and even the
chiefs themselves will often offer to test its discriminating powers.

When a Manganja dies, a great wailing is kept up in his house for two
days; his tools and weapons are broken, together with his cooking
vessels. All food in the house is taken out and destroyed ; and even the
beer is poured on the earth.

The burial grounds seem to be carefully cherished — as carefully,
indeed, as many of the churchyards in America. The graves are all
arranged north and south, and the sexes of the dead are marked by the
implements laid on the grave. These implements are always broken ;
partly, perhaps, to signify that they can be used no more, and partly to
save them from being stolen. Thus a broken mortar and pestle for
pounding corn, together with the fragments of a sieve, tell that there lies
below a woman who once had used them ; whilst a piece of a net or a
shattered paddle are emblems of the fishermen's trade, and tell that a
fisherman is interred below. Broken calabashes, gourds, and other
vessels, are laid on almost every grave ; and in some instances a banana
is planted at the head. The relatives wear a kind of mourning, consist-
ing of narrow strips of palm leaf wound around their heads, necks, arms,
legs, and breasts, and allowed to remain there until they drop off by decay.

Startlingr News.

As Livingstone marched forward word was received that the Ajawa
were near, burning villages ; and at once the doctor and his companions
advanced to seek an interview with these scourges of the country. On
their way they met crowds of Manganjas flying, having left all their
property and food behind them. Numerous fields of Indian corn were
passed, but there was no one to reap them. All the villages were
deserted. One, where on the previous visit a number of men had been
;een peacefully weaving cloth, was burned, and the stores of grain
ocattered over the plain and along the paths. The smoke of burning
/illages was seen in front, and triumphant shouts, mingled with the wail
jf the Manganja women lamenting over the slain, reached their ears.
The bishop knelt and engaged in prayer, and on rising, a long line of
Ajawa warriors with their captives was seen. In a short time the
travellers were surrounded, the savages shooting their poisoned arrows
and dancing hideously. Some had muskets, but, on shots being fired at
them, they ran off.

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200

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The main body in the mean time decamped with the captives, two only
of whom escaped and joined their new friends. Most of the party pro-
posed going at once to the rescue of the captive Manganja ; but this
Livingstone oppos.ed, believing that it would be better for the bishop to
wait the effect of the check given to the slave-hunters. It was eviden'
that the Ajawa were instigated by the Portuguese agents from Tete. I '
vvas possible that they might by persuasion be induced to follow the
better course, but, from their long habit of slaving for the Quillimant
market, this appeared doubtful. The bishop consulted Livingstone as Xc
whether, should the Manganjas ask his assistance against the Ajawa, iv
would be his duty to give it ? The reply was : " Do not interfere in
native quarrels."

Leaving the members of the commission encamped on a beautiful

spot, surrounded by stately trees, near the clear little stream of Magomero,

the expedition returned to the ship to prepare for their journey to Lake

Nyassa.

A Fresli Start.

In August, i86i,the two doctors and Charles Livingstone started in a
four-oared gig, with one while sailor and twenty Makololo, for Nyassa.
Carriers were easily engaged to convey the boat past the forty miles of
the Murchison Cataracts, Numberless volunteers came forward, and the
men of one village transported it to the next. They passed the little
Lake of Pamalombe, about ten miles long and five broad, surrounded
thickly by papyrus. Myriads of mosquitoes showed the presence cf
malaria, and they hastened by it.

Again launching their boat, they proceeded up the river, and entered
the lake early in September, greatly refreshed by the cool air which came
off its wide expanse of water. The centre appeared to be of a deep blue,
while the shallow water along the edge was indicated by its light green
color. A little from the shore the water was from nine to fifteen fathoms
in depth, but round a grand mountain promontory no bottom could be
obtained with their lead-line of thirty-five fathoms. The lake was esti-
nated to be about two hundred miles long and from twenty to sixty
oroad.

The lake appeared to be surrounded by mountains, but on the wcs.
they were merely the edges of high table-land.

It is visited by sudden and tremendous storms. One morning the sea
si'ddc^niy rose around them, preventing them from advancing or reced-
ing, as the tremendous surf on the beach would have knocked their light
boat to pieces, while the waves came rolling on in threes, their crests

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

broken into spray. Had one of them struck the boat, nothing could
have saved her from being swamped,

" They are Lost! They are all Dead I "

For six hours they remained at anchor a little from the shore, thus ex-
posed to the fury of the gale. The crew became sea-sick and unable to
keep the boat's head to the sea, while some of their party who had
remained on shore watched them, the natives every moment exclaiming :
' They are lost ! they are all dead ! "

After this, every night they hauled the boat up on the beach ; and,
had it not been supposed that these storms were peculiar to one season,
they would have given the Nyas; a the name of the " Lake of Storms."

A dense population exists on the shores of the lake, some being a tribe
of Zulus who came from the south some years ago. They own large
herds of cattle, and arc on the increase by uniting other people to them-
selves. The marshy spots are tenanted by flocks of ducks, geese, cranes,
herons, andHumerous other birds. The people cultivate the soil, grow-
ing large quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, maize and millet. Those at
the north end reap a curious harvest. Clouds of what appeared to be
smoke rising from miles of burning grass were seen in the distance. The
appearance was caused by countless millions of midgets. As the
voyagers' boat passed through them, eyes and mouth had to be kept
closed. The people collect these insects by night and boil them into
thick cakes, to be eaten as a relish. One of these cakes, which tasted
like salted locusts, was presented to the doctor.

Abundance of fish were caught, some with nets, and others with hook
and line. Women were seen fishing, with babies on their backs. Enor-
mous crocodiles were seen, but, as they can obtain abundance of fish,
they seldom attack men. When, however, its proper food is scarce, the
crocodile, as is always the case, becomes very dangerous.

The lake t''ibcs appear to be open-handed , and, whenever a net was
drawn, fish was invariably offered. On one occasion the inhabitants, on
their arrival, took out their seine, dragged it, and made their visitors a
present of the entire haul. The chiefs treated them also with consider-
ible kindness. One at the north of Marenga, who was living in a stock-
ade in a forest surrounded by a wide extent of country, which he owned,
made them beautiful presents. The doctor admiring an iron bracelet
studded with copper which the chief wore, he took it off and presented
it to him, while his wife did the same with hers.

At one place a party of thieves stole into the camp and carried off most
of their goods, no one awaking, though their rifles and revolvers were all

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BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

203

ready. The cloth, having been used for pillows, escaped, but nearly
all their clothing was lost, and 'even their note-books and specimens.
On the highlands, at the northern end, a tribe of Zulus, known as the
Mazitu, make sudden swoops on the villages of the plains, and carry off
t lie inhabitants and burn villages; and putrid bodies slain by Mazitu

'?,*^~ - . .J

GIANT HERON OF AFRICA.

•ears were seen in all directions. In consequence of this the land party,
Miiposed of blacks, were afraid of proceeding and Livingstone accordingly
aiuled to accompany them. While he struck inland to go round a moun-
tain, the boat pursued her course; but a fresh gale compelled her to run
in -shore. On continuing her voyage, a number of armed Mazftu were
seen on a small island, with several large canoes belonging to them.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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It was evident that it was a nest of lake pirates. Further on they met a
still larger band, and the voyagers were 'ordered to come on shore. On
refusing, a number of canoes chased them, one with nine paddles perse-
vering a considerable time, till a good breeze enabled the gig to get
away from them. This circumstance caused great anxiety about Dr
Livingstone.

The boat party having sailed on for fifteen miles northward, he was
still nowhere to be seen, and they therefore resolved to return. Another
gale, however, compelled them to put into a harbor, where a number c)(
wretched fugitives from the slave trade, who had crossed from the oppo-
site shore, were found ; but the ordinary inhabitants had been swept oft
by the Mazitu. In their deserted gardens cotton of a fine quality, witli
staple an inch and a half long, was seen growing, some of the plants
deserving to be ranked with trees.

The Way Beset with Dangers.

On returning, their former pursuers tried to induce them to come on
shore. Four days passed before Livingstone with two of his party dis-
covered them. He had in the meantime fallen in with the Mazitu, who
were armed with spears and shields, and their heads fantastically dressed
with feathers. By his usual courage and determination he prevented
them from attacking him. When they demanded presents, he told
them his goods were in the boat ; and when they insiijted on having a
coat, the Makololo en:^aired how many of the party they had killed, that
they thus began to divide the spoil ; and at last, suspecting that he had
support at hand, they took to their heels.

Numerous elephants, suprisingly tame, were seen on the borders of the
lake even close to the village, and hippopotami swarmed in all the creeks
and lagoons. Several were shot for food during the journey. Some-
times food was thus abundant; at others, a few sardines served for dinner.

The doctor saw that a small armed steamer on Lake Nyassa could, by
furnishing goods in exchange for ivory and other products, excercise a
powerful influence in stoppiug the traffic in that quarter.

The expedition had spent from the 2d of September to the 27th of
October in exploring the lake, and their goods being now expended, it
was necessary to return to the ship. On their way back they fell in with
a number of Manganja families, driven from their homes by Ajavva raids,
taking shelter among the papyrus growing on Lake Pamalombe, sup-
porting themselves on the fine fish which abound in it. The party
reached the ship on the 8th of November, but in a weak condition,
having latterly suffered greatly from hunger.

::^I>M

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

205

They soon received a visit from the bishop, who appeared in excellent
spirits, and believed that all promised well for future success. He
arranged to explore the country from Magomero to the mouth of the
river, and it was agreed that the " Pioi eer," her draught being too great
for the upper part of the Shire, should on her next trip not go higher
than Ruo.

The "Pioneer" Acrround.

With three hearty cheers, the " Pioneer" steamed down the river. The
rain ceasing, she unfortunately ran on a shoal, and was detained in an
unhealthy spot for five weeks. Here the carpenter's mate, a fine healthy
young man, was seized with fever and died. A permanent rise in the
river enabled them at last to get on. On reaching Ruo, they heard that
Mariano had returned from Mozambique, and was desolating the right
bank of the river. He had lived in luxury during his nominal imprison-
ment, and was now able to set the Portuguese at defiance. An officer
.sent against him, instead of capturing the rebel, was captured himself, but
soon returned to Tete with a present of ivory he had deceived.

The Zambesi was reached in January, 1862, when the " Pioneer" pro-
ceeded to the Great Luabo mouth of the river. Soon Her Majesty's
ship " Gorgon " arrived, towing the brig which brought out Mrs. Living-
stone and some ladies about to join the University mission, as v/ell as the
sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation of Lake
Nyassa. The name of the " Lady Nyassa" was given to the new vessel.

The " Pioneer," with as large a portion of . the vessel as she could

carry, accompanied by two of the " Gorgon's " paddle-box boats, steamed

o(T for Ruo in February. Her progress was very slow, and six months

were expended before Shupanga was reached. Here the sections ot the

" Lady Nyassa " were landed, and preparations were made to screw her

together.

Sad Deaths.

Captain Wilson had kindly gone on in his boat to Ruo. On reaching^
Ruo, greatly to their dismay the chief declared that no white man had
:ome to his village. They thence went on to Chibisa, where the sad
news was received of the death of the bishop. The sad tale of the
bishop's death has often been told. He had set off in the hopes of
rescuing some of his flock who had been kidnapped, and, undergoing
fatigue and exposure to rain far greater than his constitution could
stand, having been upset in a canoe and sleeping afterwards in his wet
clothes, had succumbed to fever when returning to Ruo.

About the middle of April Mrs. Livingstone was attacked by fever.

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206

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Notwithstanding the most skillful medical aid rendered to her, her eyes
were cloiJed in death as the sun set on a Sabbath day, the 27th of April,
1862. Her grave was placed beneath the great baobab-tree in the spot
before described. Tliere rested the daughter of the Missionary Moffat,
that Christian lady who had exercised such beneficial influence over the
rude tribes of the interior, and niight, it wis hopod, have renewed her
labors in the country to which she had come.

The " Lady Nyassa " was now screwed together and her stores got on
board ; but, as she could not be taken to the cataract before the rains in
December, the " Pioneer " sailed for Johanna to obtain mules and oxen
to convey her by land, after she had been taken to pieces, above the
falls.

To fill up the time the doctor resolved, on the return of the " Pioneer,"
to explore the Rovunjd in boats. Captain Gardner and several of his
officers accompanied them two days in the gig and cutter. The water
was now low ; but when filled by the rains, in many respects the Rovuma
appears superior to the Zambesi. It would probably be valuable as a
highway for commerce during three-fourths of each year.

Trip up the Rovuma.

Above Kichokomane was a fertile plain, studded with a number of de-
sorted villages. Its inhabitants were living on low sandbanks, though
they had left their property behind, fearing only being stolen themselves.
They showed, however, an unfriendly spirit to the white men, not under-
standing their objects. The blacks assembled on the shore, and evidently
intended to attack the party as they passed the high bank, but a stiff
breeze swept the boats by. Attempts were made to persuade the natives
that the travellers had only peaceful intentions, that tl. ^ wished to be
their friends, and that their countrymen bought cotton and ivory. Not-
withstanding this, these savages were not satisfied, and their leader was
seen urging them to fire.

Many of them had muskets, while others, who were armed with bows,
held them with arrows ready set to shoot. Still the doctor and his
companions were exceedingly unwilling to come to blows, and half an
hour was spent, during which, at any moment, they might have been
struck by bullets or poisoned arrows. The English assured them that
they had plenty of ammunition, that they did not wish to shed the blood
of the children of the same Great Father, and that if there was a fight,
the guilt would be theirs. At last their leader ordered them to lay down
their arms, and he came, saying that the river was theirs, and that the
English must pay toll for leave to pass. As it was better to do so than

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

207

fight, the payment demanded was given, and they promised to be friends
ever afterwards.

The sail was then hoisted, and the boats proceeded up, when they
were followed by a large party, as it was supposed merely to watch them,
but without a moment's warning the savages fired a volley 6f musket-
oalls and poisoned arrows. Providentially they were so near that six
arrows passed over their heads, and four musket-balls alone went through
the sail. Their assailants immediately bolted, and did not again appear
UU the boats had got to a considerable distance. A few shots were fired

THE PELICAN.

over their heads, to give them an idea of the range of the Englishmen's
rifles. They had probably expected to kill some of the party, and then
in the confusion to rob the boats.

They were more hospitably treated by a Makoa chief higher up, who
had been to Iboe, and once to M6zambique with slaves. Ilis people
refused to receive gaily-colored prints, having probably been deceived by
sh?im ones before, preferring the plain blue stuff of which they had
experience. Another old chief, on seeing them go by, laid down hi«
gun, and when they landed approached them.

They proceeded up the cataracts of the Rovuma, but finding that the

208

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

distance overland was far greater to Lake Nyassa than that by Murchi-
son's Cataracts on the Shire, tliey considered it best to take their steamer
up by that route. After having been away a month, they reached the
" Pioneer " on the 9th of October. The ship's company had used dis-
tilled water, and not a single case of sickness had occurred on board,
while those who had been in the boats had some slight attacks.

After this they put to sea and visited Johanna, returning to the fever •
haunted village of Quillimane. Here they were kindly entertained by
one of the few honorable Portuguese officials they met with in that
region, Colonel Nunes. He came out as a cabin-boy, and, by persevering
energy, has become the richest man on the East Coast.

Extraordinary Sig^ht.
Early in January, 1863, the "Pioneer," with the "Lady Nyassa" in
tow, steamed up the Swire.

The Shire marshes support prodigious numbers of many kinds of
water-fowl. An hour at the mast-head unfolded novel views of life in an
African marsh. Near the edge, and on the branches of some favorite
tree, rest scores of plotuses and cormorants, which stretch their snake-
like necks and in mute amazement turn one eye and then another
towards the approaching monster. By and by the timid ones begin to
fly off, or take " headers " into the stream ; but a few of the bolder, or
more composed, remain, only taking the precaution to spread their wings,
ready for instant flight. The pretty ardetta, of a light yellow color when
at rest, but seemingly of a pure white when flying, takes wing, and
sweeps across the green grass in large numbers, often showing where
buffaloes and elephants are by perching on their backs.

Ducks are very abundant, and being night feeders, meditate quietly by
the small lagoons until startled by the n©ise of the steam machinery.
Pelicans glide over the water catching fish, while the scopus and large
horons peer intently into pools. The large black and white spur-winged
goose (a constant marauder of native gardens) springs up, and circles
round to find out what the disturbance can be, and then settles down
again with a splash. Hundreds of linongolos rise on the wing from the
clumps o*" reeds, or low trees, on which they build in colonies, and are
speedily hi^^h in mid-air.

Charming little red and yellow weavers remind one of butterflies, as
they fly in and out of the tall grass, or hang to the mouths of their pen-
jlant nests, chattering briskly to their mates within. Kites and vultures
are busy overhead, viewing the ground for their repast of carrion ; and
the solemn-looking, stately-stepping flamingoes, with «» taste for dead

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULrlES AND DANGERS.

20?

-fish or men, stalk slowly along the almost stagnant channels. Groups ot
men and boys are searching diligently in various places for lotus ami
otlier roots. Some are standing in canoes, on the weed-covered ponds,
spearing fish, while others are punting over the small intersecting
streams to examine their sunken fish-baskets.

j?^5*^^^i^E

GROUP OF FLAMINGOES.

Towards evening, hundreds of pretty little hawks are seen flying in a
southerly direction, and feeding on dragon-flies and locusts. They come,
ripparently, from resting on the palm trees during the heat of the day.
Flocks of scissor-bills are then also cfn the wing, and in search of fqodt

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210

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ploughing the water with their lower mandibles, which are nearly half aa
inch longer than the upper ones.

At the north-eastern end of the marsh, and about three miles from the
river, commences a great forest of palm trees. It extends many miles,
and at one point comes close to the river. The gray trunks and green
tops of this imjncnse mass of trees give a pleasing tone of color to the
view. The mountain range, which rises close behind the palms, is
generally of a cheerful green, and has many trees, with patches'
of a lighter tint among them, as if spots of land had once beer;
cultivated. The sharp angular rocks and dells on its sides have
the appearance of a huge crystal broken ; and this is so often the
case in Africa that one can guess pretty nearly at sight whether
a range is of the old crystalline I'ocks or not. The borassus, though not
an oil-bearing palm, is a useful tree. The fibrous pulp round the jargc
nuts is of a sweet, fruity taste, and is eaten by men and elephants. The
natives bury the nuts until the kernels begin to sprout ; when dug up
and broken, the inside resembles coarse potatoes, and is prized in times
of scarcity as nutritious food. During several months of the year palm-
wine, or sura, is obtained in large quantities; when fresh, it is a pleasant
drink, somewhat like champagne, and not at all intoxicating; though,
after standing a few nours, it becomes highly so.

Vegetable Champagne.

Sticks, a foot long, are driven into notches in the hard outside of the
tree — the inside being soft or hollow — to serve as a ladder ; the top of
the fruit-shoot is cut off, and the sap, pouring out at the fresh wound,
is caught in an earthen pot, which is hung at the point. A thin
slice is taken off the end, to open the pores and make the juice flow
eveiy time the owner ascends to empty the pot. Temporary huts are
erected in the forest, and men and boys remain by their respective trees
day and night ; the nuts, fish and wine being their sole food. The Por-
tuguese use the palm-wine as yeast, and it makes bread so light that it
melts in the mouth like froth.

Above the palm-l;ree«, a succession of rich, low islands stud the river
Many of them are cultivated and grow maize at all times of the year.
Some patches ripe arc seen, and others half-grown, or just sprouting out
of the ground. The shores are adorned with rows of banana-trees, and
the fruit is abundant and cheap. Many of the reedy banks are so inter-
twined with convolvulus, and other creepers, as to be absolutely impene-
trable. They are beautiful to the eye, a smooth wal! of living green
ris'ngoutof the crystal water, and adorned with lovely flowers; but sa

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CURIOUS NEST OF THE FLAMINGO.

(211)

212

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

dense that, if capsized in tlie water, one could scarcely pass through to
land. Probably no tropical bird is more remarkable than the famous
flamingo. The following incident is related by one of a party of
travellers in Africa :

Our path led through the forest near the banks of the river, of which
we occasionally got glimpses. It was here of considerable width,
bordered by mangrove bushes. In one or two places there were wide
liats covered with reeds. Suddenly, as we passed a point of the river, I
saw drawn up what had much the appearance, at the first glance, of a
regiment of soldiers, with red coats and white trousers.

"Why, where can those men have come from?" I cried out.

A Begrimeiit of Birds.
One of the party, who was near me, burst into a laugh, in which his
sisters and the boys joined. "Why, those are birds," he answered. "A
regiment, true enough, but of flamingoes; and see! they are in line, and
will quickly march away as we approach."

A second glance showed me that he was right; and a very curious
appearance they had. "See! there is the sentinel."

As he spoke, one of the birds nearest to us issued a sound like that of
a trumpet, which was taken up by the remainder; and the \\ aole troop,
expanding their flaming wings, rose with loud clamors into the air, flying
up the stream. We went on, and cutting off a bend in the river, again
met it; and here our bearers declared that they must stop and rest. We
accordingly encamped, though our guide warned us that we must remain
but a short time, as we wished to reach some higher ground before dark.
A fire was lighted for cooking; and while our meal was preparing, I, with
others, went down nearer the banks to see what was to be seen. We
observed on the marshy ground a little way off a high mound, and
creeping along, that we might not disturb the numerous birds which
covered the banks or sat on the trees around, we caught sight of another
mound, with a flamingo seated on the top of it, her long legs, instead of
Ibeing tucked up as those of most birds would have been, literally astrad-
dle on it.

'* That is one of their nests," whispered one. " The bird is a hen sitting
on her eggs. Depend upon it, the troop is not far off. See, see! there
are many others along the banks. What a funny appearance they have."
Bed Wings Sweeping Through the Air.
Presently a flash of red appeared in the blue sky, and looking up, we
saw what might be described as a great fiery triangle in the air sweeping
down towards us. On it came, greatly diminishing its rate, and we then

saw
then
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arran
when
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diggii
^ith 1

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number^
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BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

213

saw that it was composed of flamingoes. They hovered for a moment,
then flew round and round, following one another, and gradually
approached the marsh, on which they alighted. Immediately they
arranged themselves as we had before seen them, in long lines,
when several marched off on either side to act as sentinels, while the
rest commenced fishing. We could see them arching their necks and
digging their long bills into the ground, while they stirred up the mud
;vith their webbed feet, in order to procure the water-insects on which

THE MARVELLOUS SPECTRAL LEMUR.

they subsist. They, however, were not the only visitors to the river.
The tide was low, and on every mud-bank or exposed spot countless
numbers of birds were collected — numerous kinds of gulls, herons, and
long-legged cranes — besides which, on the trees were perched thousands of
white birds, looking at a distance like shining white flowers. Vast flocks
of huge pelicans were swimming along the stream, dipping their enormous
bills into the water, and each time bringing up a fish. They have enor-
mous pouches, capable of containing many pounds of their finny prey.

214

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Other forms of animal life abound in the Tropics, and not the least
marvellous of these is the spectral lemur.

Lemur is the name applied to about thirty species of monkeys. They
are divided into five principal genera, inhabiting chiefly Madagascar, a
few living in Africa and the warm regions of Asia and its archipelago.

The animals have two sharp claws on each hind foot, all their other
nails are flat. In their habits and economy, as well as in their hand-like
paws, the lemurs are like the other monkeys. They principally differ
from those animals in the shape of the head, which is somewhat like that
of a dog, and in the great length of their hind legs. The latter aie so
long, that when the lemurs walk on all-fours, their haunches are consider-
ably more elevated than the shoulders.

But this structure is of great advantage to them in climbing trees.
Many of the species are so active that they leap irom branch to branch
with a rapidity which the eye is scarcely able to follow. The lemurs
derive their name from their nocturnal habits and their noiseless move-
ments. They live in the depths of the forests, and only move by night,
the entire day being spent in sleep. Their food consists of fruits and
insects which latter they take while they are sleeping.

The spectral lemur is of a grayish-brown color, and lives in some of
the forests of Africa, its long tarsi, or hind legs enabling it to leap like
a frog, and its curious eyes giving it a singular appearance.

Scenes Along: the River's Baiilts.
Surrounded by such tropical scenes as we have just described, with
their wonderful specimens of animal life, Livingstone pursued his way.
A country once very populous was nearly deserted on account of con-
tinuous raids by slave hunters.

A hippopotamus was shot, and, at the end of three days, it floated.
As the boat was towing it, immense numbers of crocodiles followed, and
it was necessary to fire at them to keep them off. It is said that the
crocodile never eats fresh meat ; indeed, the more putrid it becomes, the
better he enjoys his repast, as he can thus tear the carcass more easily.
The corpse of a boy was seen floating by. Several crocodiles dashed a^
it, fightmg for their prey, and in a few seconds it disappeared. Sixty-
Geven of the repulsive reptiles were seen on one bank. The natives eat
the animal, but few who had witnessed the horrible food on which they
banquet would willingly feed on their flesh.

Their former companion, Mr. Thornton, her2 rejoined them. Hearing
that the remaining members of the bishop's party were in want at Chi-
bisa, he volunteered to carry over a supply of goats and sheep to them.

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216

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Overcome by the fatigues of the journey, he was attacked by fever, which-
terminated fatally in April, 1863.

The whole of the once pleasant Shire valley was now a scene of wide-
spread desolation. Fearful famine had devastated it, ?.nd the sights which
met their eye in every direction were heart-rending. The ground was
literally covered with human bones. Many had ended their career under
the shade of trees, others under projecting crags of the hills, while
others lay in their huts with closed doors, which, when opened, disclosed
the mouldering corpse with a few rags round the loins, the skull fallen off
tile pillow ; the little skeleton of a child that had perished first, was rolled
up in a mat between two large skeletons.

-, Transportingr the Boat Overland.

Hoping that the "Lady Nyassa" might be the means of affording
relief to sufferers across the lake, they hurried on with their work. She
was unscrewed at a spot about five hundred yards below the first cataract,
and they began to make a road over the portage of forty miles, by which
she was to be carried piecemeal.

Trees had to be cut down and stones removed. The first half-mile of
road was formed up a gradual slope till two hundred feet above the river
was reached, where a sensible difference in the climate was felt. Before
much progress was made, Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone were seized
with fever, and A was deemed absolutely necessary that they should be
sent home. Soon afterwards Dr. Livingstone was himself attacked.

The "Pioneer" meantime was roofed over and left in charge of the
trustworthy gunner, Mr. Young. One day, an empty canoe was seen
floating down with a woman swimming near it. The boat put off and
brought her on board, when she was found to have an arrow-head
in the middle of her back. A native cut it out, and, notwithstanding the
fearful character of the wound, being fed liberally by Mr. Young, she re-
covered. #

About the middle of June the remaining members of the expedition
started for the upper cataracts. Cotton of superior quality was seen
dropping off the bushes, with no one to gather it. The huts in several
villages were found entire, with mortars and stones for pound •''ig and
grinding corn, empty corn safes and kitchen utensils, water and beer-pots
untouched, but the doors were shut, as if the inhabitants had gone to
search for roots or fruits and had never returned ; while in others, skele-
tons were seen of persons who died apparently while endeavoring to
reach something to allay the gnawings of hunger.

Several journeys had been made over the portage, when, on returning

BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

217

hich

ade-
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was
indcr
while
losed
en off
rolled

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. She

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which

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Before

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to the ship in July, they received a despatch from Earl Russell, directing-
the return hctr.e of the expedition. Arrangements therefore were made
to screw the " Lady Nyassa" together again, as the " Pioneer" could not
move till the floods in December. In the meantime it was determined
to make another trip to the lake in a boat to be carried overland past the
cataracts.

The same scenes were witnessed as before. Wild animals had taken
possession of the ruins of a large village in which on their previous visit
the inhabitants had been living in peace and plenty. They had no idea,
having before kept closer to the river, of the number of villages, always
apparently selected with a view to shade, existing in that region, all of
which were now deserted.

They at length reached a region which had hitherto escaped, where
the people welcomed them with the greatest cordiality, and were willing
to spare the small amount of food they had remaining for themselves.
But even here news of war soon reached them, and they found that a tribe
of Zulus, the Mazitu, were ravaging the country, and that the inhabitants
were only safe within their stockades. They soon encountered men and
women carrying grain towards these fortifications, and soon they came
upon dead bodies, first one and then another, lying in postures assumed
in mortal agony such as no painter can produce.

Terror from Savagre Invaders,

On their arrival at Chinsamba's stockade, they were told that the
Mazitu had been repulsed thence the day before, and the sad sight of the
numerous bodies of the slain showed the truth of the report. Chinsamba
urged them not to proceed to the north-west, where the Mazitu had
occupied the whole region, and they accordingly remained with him till
September.

After this they visited Chia Lakelet. On their way they met men and'
women eagerly reaping the corn in haste, to convey it to the stockades^
while so much was found scattered along the paths by the Mazitu and
the fugitives that some women were winnowing it from the sand. Dead
bodies and burned villages showed that they were close upon the heels of
the invaders. An:,ong the reeds on the banks of the lake was seen a
continuous village of temporary huts in which the people had taken
refuge from their invaders.

Another extensive and interesting journey was taken in the neighbor-
hood of the lake, and, on their return along the shores, they found the
reeds still occupied by the^unhappy fugitives, who were already suffering
fearfully from famine. Numbers of newly-made graves showed that

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218

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

many had already perished, and others had more the appearance of
human skeletons than living beings.

Altogether in this expedition they travelled seven hundred and sixty
miles in a straight line, averaging about fifteen miles a day, and they
reached the ship on the 1st of November, where all were found in
good health and spirits. They were visited on board by an Ajawa chief
named Kapeni, who asserted that he and his people would gladly receive
the associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers.

About the middle of December news reached them of the arrival of
the successor of Bishop Mackenzie, but that gentleman, after spending a
few months on the top of a mountain as high as Ben Nevis, at the mouth
of the Shire, where there are few or no people to be taught, returned
home, while six of the boys who had been reared by Bishop Mackenzie
had been deserted and exposed to the risk of falling back into heathen-
ism. The poor boys, however, managed to reach the ship, expressing
their sorrow that they no longer had one to look after them, remarking
that Bishop Mackenzie had a loving heart, and had been more than a
father to them.

In January, I864, the Shire suddenly rising, the " Pioneer" was once
more got underway; but, her rudder being injured, she was delayed,
and did not reach Morambala till February. Here they received on
boird about thirty orphan boys and girls, and a few helpless widows
who had been attached to Bishop Mackenzie's mission, and who could
not be abandoned without bringing odium on the English name. The
moment permission to embark was given, they all rushed into the boat,
nearly swamping her in their eagerness to be safe on the " Pioneer's "
deck.

At the mouth of the Zambesi, they found Her Majesty's ships
" Orestes " and " Ariel," when the former took the " Pioneer" in tow, and
the latter the " Lady Nyassa," bound for Mozambique. After encoun-
tering a heavy storm, when the little vessels behaved admirably, while
the " Pioneer " was sent to the Cape, the " Lady Nyassa," under charge
of Dr. Livingstone, proceeded by way of Zanzibar to Bombay, which
they safely reached, though at times they thought their epitaph would
be : " Left Zanzibar on the 30th of April, 1 864, and never more heard
of."

! * 1

CHAPTER X.
LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

Sensation Caused by Livingstone's Discoveries — New Expedition— Arrival at Zan-
zibar—Hard March Across the Country— Desertion of Sepoys— Arrival on the
Shores of the Lake — No Canoes —Report of Murders by Arabs— Desertions
Among the Men— Story of Livingstone's Death— Excitement in England — Expe
dition Sent to Learn the Explorer's Fate — Ravages by a Savage Tribe— Thieves
in the Camp— Loss of the Medicine Chest — Sufferings from Fever — Arrival at
Tanganyika— A New Lake on the West — Further Progress Stopped— Patient
Waiting— Off for the New Lake at Last— Down the Lake to Cazembe's— High
and Mighty Potentate— Formal Reception to Livingstone— Presents to the Chief-
Shocking Stories of Human Sacrifices— Cropping off Ears and Lopping off
Hands — A Tribe that Smelts Copper-ore— Hot Springs and Frequent Earth-
quakes—Exploring Lake Bangweolo— Grave in the Forest—" Poor Mary Lies
on Shupanga Brae " — Remarkable Discovery— Modesty of the Great Explorer.

HE excitement caused in England by Livingstone's account of all
that he had seen and done in his great journeys was intense.
Men of science were eager to ascertain if the lakes of the South
were connected with those of Central Africa, and, if so, by what
means. One and all felt that the work begun must be carried on at what-
ever cost. Missionary societies prepared to send members into the
new and vast fields that had been opened.

On every side arose a cry for new men, willing to risk their lives in
the common cause vof humanity and geographical discovery. With the
missionaries who responded to this appeal we have not now to deal,
though we are glad to be able to add that quite a little colony went to
work on the shores of the Nyassa. Our task is merely to trace the
further progress Df the solution of the great problems of Central African
geography, and it is with feelings of mingled joy and regret that we
resume our narrative of the career of one of the greatest of all our heroes.
We rejoice that Livingstone was spared to add yet another chapter to
geographical science; we bitterly regret that our gain was purchased at
the cost of a life so valuable as his.

On his return to England in 1864, the great explorer would fain have
retired from active service, and spent the evening of his life in settling the
pecuniary affairs of his family and enjoying the society of his children.
When asked by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, president of the
Royal Geographical Society, to name a leader for a new expedition to

(219)

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220

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

w'».

resolve the problem of the watershed between the Nyassa and Tangan-
yika, Livingstone at once fixed upon an eminent traveller, whose name is
for obvious reasons withheld. That traveller declined to undertake the
mission becau.se no sufficient remuneration was offered for his services,
and in his disappointment, Sir Roderick appealed to Livingstone. Why
could not he, who had already done so much, undertake this one more
journey? Who so fit to complete the work as the experienced ex
piorer who had begun it?

Resolve to Return to Africa.

For a moment, but only for a moment, our hero hesitated, and then
he urged, almost apologetically, all the reasons against the undertak-
ing of fresh responsibility by a man of the advanced age of fifty-three,
who was already worn out by the fatigues of two previous jour-
neys, each extending over several years. All objections were, how-
ever, overruled, and before the interview closed Livingstone had con-
sented to start for Zanzibar as soon as his book on the Zambesi was
published.

For this new expedition the English Government subscribed the sum
of ^2,500, the Royal Geographical Society $2,500, and a private friend
$5,000. Its main object was to explore the country between the Nyassa
and Tanganyika, with a view to determining the relation of the two lakes
to each other, but from first to last Livingstone never lost sight of the
question — to him of equal importance — of the best means for benefiting
the barbarous races in Africa.

Our hero left England for the third and last time in August, 1865,
scarcely more than a year after his return home from his Zambesi journey,
and arrived in Zanzibar in January, 1866. He proposed penetrating to
the Nyassa by way of the Rovunia River and those districts on the east
of the lake inhabited by the dreaded Ajawa, but, except for this mere
outline of a plan, he determined to be guided by circumstances, knowing
from many a provoking experience how seldom any programme can be
accurately carried out in African travel.

Kindly received by the Sultan of Zanzibar, to whom he had first-rate
letters of introduction, Livingstone was able to make the necessary
arrangements for his journey with great rapidity, and by the beginning
of March he had in his service, in addition to thirteen Sepoys from India,
ten Johanna men, two Shapunga men, one of them the now celebrated
Susi, two Wayans, the Chumah who with Susi remained with his master
to the last, and a Wakatani. An Arab dhow was purchased for the
transit to the Rovuma of the animals, consisting of six camels, three

(221)

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

buffaloes, two mule>?, and four donkeys, and large stores of merchandise
and provisions. No pains, in short, were spared to ensure success, and
on the 1 8th of March all was ready fo* the start. ;

The Expedition Starts.

The explorer and his retinue crossed from Zanzibar to the main land
in Her Majesty's ship " Penguin," and after a rather disheartening exami-
nation of the mouths of the Rovuma, Mikindany Bay, twenty-five miles
above them, was fixed upon as the best spot for disembarkation. Living-
stone and his people landed, the " Penguin " took her leave, and the work
of the expedition may be said to have begun. A house on the sea-shore
was hired at the rate of four dollars a month to form a kind of permanent
storehouse ; the animals were disembarked from the dhow, carriers were
engaged, and early in April the march to the south was commenced.

The caravan wound slowly through dense jungle, which had to be cut
down for the passage of the camels, though it offered no serious obstruc-
tion to the men of the party, and, halting now at one, now at another
Makonde village, arrived on the banks of the Rovuma, opposite the
furthest point reached by the " Pioneer" in i866.

The course was now due west, along the edge of " that ragged outline
of table-land " which had been seen on the previous expedition as flanking
both sides of the river. A rough path led, in winding fashion, from one
village to another, all inhabited by Makonde, a degraded negro race,
knowing nothing- -though they are in constant intercourse with Arabs —
of God, of a future state, or of the commonest usages of civilized life.
They pray to their mothers when dying or in distress, ana believe
implicitly in the power of their doctors over life and death. The head-
man of every village was also the doctor, Livingstone made several
attempts to teach the Makonde the first principles of religion, but his
ignorance of their language rendered all his efforts unsuccessful

Cruel Drivers.

In the middle of April the caravan turned southwards, and for the next
two months a south-westerly course was pursued, through a mountainous
and well-wooded country, peopled by the Mtambwe, said to be a branch
of the Makonde. In this march the chief difficulty with which our here
had to contend was the cruelty of his men to the animals, many of which
were lamed by blows from their drivers, but whether with a view to
retarding the journey, or from a wanton love of inflicting suffering, it was
impossible to decide. The camels often came back from pasture bleeding
from newly-inflicted wounds, and the buffaloes and mules were also soon
'covered with sores.

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

22a

In May a country comparatively free of wood was entered, in which
it was possible to advance without perpetual cutting and clearing, and the
same month the highest point of. the Rovuma reached by the " Pioneer "^
in 1862 was passed. Beyond came districts hitherto totally unknown to

Europeans — though Roscher is supposed to have been in their neigh-
borhood — where the natives, though not exactly unfriendly, did not
readily supply food to the exploring party. Much coaxing and bargain-
ing were required to obtain needed supplies, which were not always of
the best quality, yet they were always dear. The country was suffering

224

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

from drought, and the people were in daily fear of raids from the Mazitu,
a warlike race living on the southern banks of the Rovuma, who plunder
and murder the ^uTounding tribes with savage recklessness.

Miserably short marches were all that could be made on the small
rations to which Livingstone was now obliged to reduce his men, but
finally, all difficulties surmounted, the junction with the Loendi, supjjosed
to be the parent stream of the Rovuma, was reached, and, crossing it with
the help of a friendly chief called Matumora, our hero hoped to make
/his way rapidly to Lake Nyassa, across the southern bank of the

Rovuma. •

Mutiny Among' the Sepoys.

But now the Sepoys, who had long shown signs of insubordination,
declared they would go no further, and inquiry revealed that they had
offered Ali, the leader of the retinue, eight rupees to lake them to the
coast. The Nassick boys followed their example. They would not go
on to be starved; Livingstone must pay their wages and let them go.
By continued threats and promises, however, a truce was patched up for
a time, an4 the whole party crept on along the southern bank of the ,
Rovuma till the i8th June, when one of the Nassick boys died, and the
Sepoys again rebelled. To make a long story short, we may add that,
after several vain attempts to bind them to his service, Livingstone
finally consented to the return of the Indians to Zanzibar, and that those
who survived the journey to the coast arrived there in August or Sep-
tember. They appear to have suffered greatly, and to have had some
excuse for their unwillingness to proceed further in a country where
death from starvation was the least of many evi's to be feared.

Pressing on with his reduced numbers, Livingstone followed the course
of the Rovuma until the ist July. Then leaving the river he entered the
Ajavva country, and, traversing it in a south-westerly direction, came to
Lake Nyassa at the confluence of the Nishinge, ii. August, to find liim-
self once more amongst the friendly Manganja, to whom he had rendered
such great services in 1861.

The practicability of the shorter route to the Nyassa from the eastern
coast was now proved beyond a doubt, and, overjoyed by the successful
termination of the first stage of his journey, Livingstone eagerly set
about endeavoring to cross the lake, hoping to reach an Arab settlement
which he knew to exist on the western shore, with a view to making it
the starting-point for Tanganyika.

In this plan our hero was disappointed. After trying for nearly a
month to persuade firFl one and then another native chief to lend him a

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

225

canoe, Livingstone finally determined to go southwards round Cape
Maclear and ascend the lake on the other side. In this he was success-
ful, and we soon find him marchmg across the base of the promontory,
with the singular addition to his retinue of two Ajawa, who acted as
guides and carriers, much to their o./n surprise, and, that of everybody
else, this tribe seldom condescending to do any work but fighting.

A Courteous Chief.

The villa^^e of Marenga, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom of
ihe heel of the lake, was entered, inhabited by a tribe called Babisa, who
had lately joined with the Ajawa in their raids upon the Manganja. The
chief of this village, who was suffering from a loathsome skin disease
introduced into the country by the Arabs, received Livingstone cour-
teously, but allowed him to proceed northwards without warning him
that the Mazitu were ravaging the country through which he must
pass.

Late in September an Arab met the party, and told Musa, one of the
Johanna men, that all who ventured further would certainly be murdered;,
fgrty-four Arabs had been killed at Kasungu ; he only had escaped to
tell the tale.

Surprised that he had heard nothing of this from Marenga, and half
suspecting foul play, Livingstone lost no time in returning to that chief
to inquire if there were any foundation for the story. The reply
received was to the effect that it might be true. The natives were very-
bitter against the Arabs, who were gradually destroying their country.
They would allow no more to settle amongst them, but their hostility
would not extend to Livingstone or his people, and there were no Mazitu
where he was going.

Completely reassured himself, Livingstone determined to proceed, but
the Johanna men had taken alarm. " Musa's eyes stood out with terror."
He said, speaking of Marenga, " I no can believe that man ; " and when
Livingstone inquired how he came to give such ready credence to the
Arab, he answered, " I ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true."
Reasoning r.nd persuasion were alike in vain. Convinced that they and
;heir master were doomed, the Johanna resolutely declined to go further
and when the start was again made they went off in a body, le-wing
their loads on the ground.

Report of Livin^irstone's Death*

This was the true origin of the report, long believed in England, of the
murder of Livingstone by natives on the western shores of Lake Nyassai
The deserters made their way back to Zanzibar, and, anxious to excuse

226

WONDERS OF THE TROIMCS.

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th^.'r own conduct, and explain tl.eir sudden return, related the following
plausible story :

The expedition had safely reached Lake Nyassa and crossed it. The
doctor then pushed on westwards, and in course of time reached Goo-
mani, a fishing village on a river. Thv*? people of Goomani warned
Livingstone that the Mafites, a wandering predatory tribe, were out on a
plundering expedition, and that it would not be safe to continue the jour-
ney ; but the dangers thus presented to view were not of a nature tc
deter a man who had braved so many before. Treating the warnings as
of little moment, therefore, he crossed the river in canoes the next morn-
ing, with his baggage and his train of followers. All the baggai^^e
animals had perished from want of water before this river was reached,
so that the luggage had to be carried by the men. Being a fast M-alker,
Livingstone soon distanced all his heavily-laden followers except Musa,
and two or three others who kept up with him.

Miisa's Story.

The march had continued some distance, when Dr. Livingstone saw
three armed men ahead, and thereupon he called out to Musa, " The
}'[afites are out after all !" These were the last words he uttered.

The Mafites, armed with bows and arrows and axes, closed UDon
the doctor, who drew his revolver and shot two. The third, however,
got behind him, and with one blow from an axe clove in his head. The
wound was mortal, but the assassin quickly met his own doom, for a
bullet from Musa's musket passed through his body, and the murderer fell
dead beside his victim.

Musa added that the doctor died instantly, and that, finding the Mafites
were out, he ran back to the baggage-men, and told them that their
master had been killed. The baggage was then abandoned, and the whole
party sought safety by a hasty flight, which they continued till sunset,
when th.2y took refuge for the night in a jungle. 1 he next day they
returned to the scene of the disasler, and found Livingstone's body lyin^i;
on the ground naked but for the trousers, the rest of his clothing having
been stolen. A he le was hastily " scratched " in the ground, and t!ie
explorer was buried. No papers or any other means of identification
were recovered, and, broken-hearted at the loss of their beloved master,
the Johanna men started for the coast, enduring great hardships by the
way, but finally arriving safely in Zanzibar.

To this tale all the faithless serv^ants adhered through one cross-exami-
nation after another, and it was very generally believed, until Sir Roder-
ick ,\Iurchison, in a letter to the Tiincs, pointed out several flaws in the

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wondp:rs of the tropics.

ingenious fabrication, proposing at the same time that an expedition
should be sent to the western shores of Lake Nyassa to examine into the
truth of the report. The English Government promptly seized this surr-
gestion; volunteers were called for, and hundreds of brave men eagerly
offered their services. Mr. Edward Daniel Young was selected to -take
i:he command, and left England on the i ith of June, i86»>.

Yoiiii^'s Seaix'li Expedition.

In a trip extending over less than five months, tlie gallant officer com-
pletely proved the falsity of Musa's account, obtained trustworthy evi-
dence of Livingstone's continued health and activity, and in October
embarked for England, where the news he brought was received witli*
unbounded enthusiasm.

Meanwhile, Livingstone, ignorant alike of the report of his death and
of the efforts being made on his behalf, quietly reflects in his journal tiiat
he is not sorry to have got rid of the Johanna men, they were such invet-
erate thieves. Pressing on with his small retinue, now reduced to the
surviving Nassick boys and the Shapunga and Ajawa men, Livingstone
reached a village at the foot of Mount Mulundini, on the west of the
heel of the Nyassa, and, obtaining there confirmation of the reports of
disturbances on the north, determined to go west amongst the Manganja,
here called Maravi.

This resolution was attended with the best results. Courteously
received at every village, and supplied with guides to the next, our hero
passed safely through a beautiful mountainous country, till he came to
the hamlet of Pamiala, where he turned southwards, and, pursuing a
zig-zag course, reached Chipanga, the most southerly point of his
journey.

A short march westward from Chipanga, brought the party to a village
called Theresa, beyond which the course was north-easterly, and throuc^h
districts hithcto totally unknown to Europeans. One river after another,
flowing towards Lake Nyassa, was crossed, and all seemed likely to go
well, when, in October, after a successful hunt, in which a fine hartebecst
antelope was shot, came news, from villagers flying southwards foi their
lives, that the Mazitu were out and close at hand.

Alirni and Flight.

The servants, who were eagerly anticipating a hearty supper, such a«
rarely fell to their lot, started to their feet, the half-cooked meat ua-:
hastily packed, and Livingstone and his guide Mpanda set out to engage
extra carriers to aid in the retreat.

As they approached the next village, however, the inhabitants poured

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LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

229

out The Mazitu were there, too, and the te/rifieti people were fleeing to
I ho Zkilanyama mountains, on the south-west. Mpanda and his n:cn now
wislie I to go home and look after their own property, but IJ\'ingstone
managed to persuade them to remain, and follow with him " the spoor of
the fugitives." Taking his stand at the foot of the rocky sides of the
Zalanyama range, now crowded with trembling natives, our hero intended
U) djL'nd his property to the last ; but after waiting some time he heard
that the enemy had gone to the south. Mad he carried out his first
scheme of going forward in search of men, he would have walked

LIVINGSTONE AND HIS MEN CROSSING A SPONGE

Straight into the hands of the Mazitu, and his fate would probably have
differed but little from that assigned to him in Musa's story.

Most of the region before these mountains are reached is lowlands,
ind filled with "sponges;" Livingstone's description of the latter will
stand the reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention'
of these obstructions in the later travels towards the north. They were
aniong the most formidable obstacles he had to encounter, and at times
}!;rcally impeded his progrcs

"The bogs, or earthen sponges, of this countr}', occupy a most
important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the

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i»nmial i.iundatitms of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sli)pint».

^^arcls a iianovv ojK'nin^ in liills or hi<;licr ground exists, there we have
conditions reijuisite for the formation of an African sponge. Thi'
vegetation, not being of a healthy or peat-forming kind, falls down, rots,
and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of this loam,
two or three (cct thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand, which is
revealed by crabs ami other atjuatic animals bringing it to the surface:
At present, vn the dry season, the black Ic. m is cracked in all direc-
tijns, and the cracks are often as much as three inches wide, and very
deep.

"The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests on the sand, but
when fho 'n'n;: come, ♦^he first sup;)ly is nearly all absorbed in the sand.
The black loam forms soft slush, aiul floats on the sand. The narrow
opening prevents it fioin moving off in a landslip, but an oozing spring
rises at that spot. 'Ml die pools in the lower portion of this spring-
course arc filled by the first rains, which happen south of the equator
when the sun goes vertically over any si)ot. The second, or greater
rhins, happen in his course north again, when all the b >gs and rive.-
courses being wet, the supply runs off, and forms the iiiundation : this
was certainly the case as observed on the Zambesi and S'.iire, and, taking
the different times for the sun's passage north of the equator, it explains
the inundation of the Nile."

So satuia^ed was the soil with moisture, that for days solid land was
not to be found. Where there was not absolute swamp and mire, the
ground was covered with a matted green carpet — a thin Tust of vegeta-
tion and soil covering " the waters under the earth " — which rose and
fell a foot at eacli step. These treacherous places had to be crossed with
a light step, and without pausing, for at the least delay the foot might slip
through the floating mass, and the imhappy traveller plunge up to the
armpits in mire.

Firo and Desolation.

As the journey westward was pursued, the smoke of burning villages
on the «"ast and on the south plainly marked the course of the n'arauder.s,
and, thankful for his narrow escaj)e, Living.stone pressed on as rapidly as
possible to the village of Mapino, beyond which he could only advance
verj' slowly, as the country was thinly peopled, and food and water v.er^^
scarce. The constant raids of marauders from the north md the visits
of Arab slave-traders from the south had, moreover, reiidcred the natives
suspicious and inhospitable, but, as in his previous journeys, Living-
stone everywhere succeeded in overcoming the prejudice pgainst white

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

231

men, and convincing the poor down-trodden people that he meant them
nothing but good.

In November, the foot of Mount Chisia was reached, and a halt was
made at a blacksmith's or founder's village, where Livingstone was inter-
ested in witnessing the primitive native mode of smelting iron, and wa.s
watching the erection of a furnace on an ant-hill, when the feeling of
security was again dispelled by tidings of the approach of the Mazitu,
They were already, said the messenger, at the village on the norths
which was to have been the next halting-place.

The head-man of the village at once urged Livingstone to remain with
him till it was certain which path the hated invaders would take, and the
women were all sent away, whilst the men went on quietly with their
usual occupations. l',o Mazitu cime, but an elephant approached
Livingstone's camp and " screamed at him," making off, however, at the
shouting of the villagers.

The next morning the march was resumed, and the Mazitu having been
fortunately avoided, the source of the Bua, a tributary of the Loangwa,
was reached, beyond which a halt was made outside a stockaded village,
where the people refused to admit our hero until thj head-man came and
gave permission. This was a foretaste of many similar difficulties, but
slowly, very slowly, step by step and inch by inch, the advance north-
wards continued, now broken by illness, now hindered by roundabout
excursions in search of the way.

A Serious Loss.

In December, the banks of the Loangwa were sighted, and, unable to
obtain food at the village on its eastern shores, Livingstone crossed the
stream without a guide, and beyond it entered a " pathless, bushy
country," where the way had to be cut step by step by the almost faint-
ing travellers.

To give the merest outlines of the difficulties surmounted, the dangers
escaped, and the privations endured as the gallant little band advanced
further and further into the unknown interior, would be to fill a volume.
\Vc must content ourselves with stating that a climax appears to have
been reached in January, 1867, when, after plodding on under heavy
;ains through a famine-stricken country, and crossing the river Cham-
beze, afterwards under its name of the Lualaba discovered to be of such
vast importance, which comes down from the western .slope of Lobisa,
our \\f.vo was deserted by the two Ajawa men mentioned as having
joined his party at Lake Nyassa. The loss of two carriers was bad
enough, but, to complicate matters still further, they took with them the

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232

WONDERS OK THE TROPICS.

medicine-box for the sake of the cloth, and some clothes belonging to a
boy named Baraka, in which were packed a quantity of flour, the tools,
two guns, and a cartridge-pouch.

Livingstone, in relating the incident in his journal, remarks pathetically
that the thieves would, of course, only throw away the valuable contents
of the medicine-box when they discovered their nature, adding that he
felt as if he had now received the sentence of death.

" There can be little doubt," says Mr. Waller, editor of Livingstone's
Journal, "that the severity of his subsequent illnesses mainly turned
upon the loss of his medicines, and it is hardly too much to believe that
his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the effects of fever-
poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to the want of
quinine." Before quoting Livingstone's account of this loss it may be
well to explain that after the desertion of the Johanna men he was obligLxi
to rely on the natives through whose districts he passed not only for
guides but for porters. The following is the narrative :

"A guide refused, so we marched without one. The two Waiyaii,
who joined us at Kande's village, now deserted. They had been verv
faithful all the way, and took our past in every case. Knowing the lan-
guage well, they were extremely useful, and no one thought that they
would desert, for they were free men — their masters had been killed by
the Mazitu — and this circumstance, and their uniform good conduct, made
us trust them more than we should have done any others who had been
slaves. But they left us in the forest, and heavy rain came on, which
obliterated every vestige of their footsteps. To make the loss more gall-
ing, t'hcy took what we could least spare — the medicine-box, which they
would only throw away as soon as they came to examine their booty.

The Thieves Escape.

" One of these deserters exchanged his load that morning with a boy
called Baraka, who had charge of the medicine-box, because he was so
careful. This was done, because with the medicine-chest were packed
five large cloths and all Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was
very careful. The Waiyau also offered to carry this burden a stage to
help Baraka, while he gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in
exchange. The forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of
getting a glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box
of powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the
Chambeze, the tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch ; but the medicine-
chest was the sorest loss of all ! I felt as if I had now received the sen-
tence of death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie.

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTLNEXT.

2;)3

"All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but
had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies;
other losses and ann.>yances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent of
vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and certainly
not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an explorer
anxious to benefit a country and people — but this loss I feel most
keenly." Every effort was made to intercept the runaways and recover
the precious box; but they were fruitless, and it was not until Living-
stone met Stanley at Ujiji five years later that he was again supplied with
those medicines with )ut which travel in Africa is so deadly.

After crossing the Chambeze Livingstone found himself in a country
called Lobemba, and late in January reached the village of the head
chief Chitapanga. Chitapanga gave the travellers a grand reception and
made a favorable impression upon Livingstone at first by his jolly good-
nature; but subsequently he exhibited on a small scale all the rapacity
of Kamrasi, and Livingstone was glad to get away after a stay of a few
tiays.

Iiitepvlew with a Great Chief.

The stockade of Chitapanga was quite a formidable-looking structure.
Besides a triple stockade, the village was defended by a deep, broad
ditch, and hedge of thorny shrub.

The messengers from the great chief soon approached to inquire if
the traveller desired an audience, and instructing him that their custom
required every one to take something in his hand the first time he came
before so great a man as Chitapanga. Being tired from marching, Liv-
ingstone deferred his visit to the chief until evening. At. 5 p. m, he sent
notice of his coming. Passing through the inner stockade and then on
to an enormous hut, he entered the presence of the chief. His Majesty
was seated on the three-legged stool, which is one of the peculiar institu-
tions of the country. Near him were three drummers, beating furiously,
and ten or more men with odd-looking rattles in tlieir hands, with which
they kept time to the drums, while seated and standing all about in the
background were hundreds of eager subjects, who gazed with deepest
interest on the reception. A noticeable feature of the ceremony was the
regular approaching and receding of the rattlers, who seemed to give to
their chief some special reverence by advancing toward him and holding
their toy-looking instruments quite near the ground, while they kept up
still with the drummers.

Chitapanga was a strongly-built burly-looking fellow, with a jolly,
laughing face. Livingstone was seated on a huge tusk, and the talk

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234

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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lie found little difificulty in interesting the chief in those things
which he had to tell, and was treated with a respect and cordiality which
impressed him very favorably with him. When they had got a little
acquainted, the chief walked with his visitor toward a group of cows
and with a generous air pointed out one and said, " That is yours."

Various circumstances conspired to protract the stay of Livingstone
twenty days at this village. Though quite favorably impressed with
Chitapanga, the necessity of holding all his interviews through others
jave rise to serious annoyances. He was particulaily troubled and vexed,
after killing the cow which had been given him, by the chief's demand-
ing a blanket for it. This was more annoying because he had none
except such as belonged to the men who were with him.

Tricks of Lying Interpreters.

This demand was pressed, however, and it at length turned out that
one of the Nassick lads, who had acted as interpreter at their interviews,
had not stated the conversation correctly. The chief had given the cow,
expecting a blanket, but the boy had said to Livingstone, " He says ycni
may give him any little thing you please." This presumptuous interference
of interpreters is one of the most serious annoyances of travelling in aii\'
country; particularly is it so in Africa: not only Dr. Livingstone but
many travellers there have been greatly troubled by it.

At this village Livingstone met a party of small black Arab slave-
traders from Bagamoio, on the coast near Zanzibar, by whom he was able
to send a packet of letters, which reached England safely and greatly
relieved the public mind concerning the great traveller, who had been
reported dead by Musa after he had so heartlessly deserted him near
Nyassa. These Arab traders had come into the country by a much
nearer route: a route too which was full of villages and people who had
plenty of goats. Jiy these men Livingstone ordered another supply of
cloth and beads and a small quantity of coffee and sugar, candles, pre-
served meats, etc., with some ni'^ilicines, to be sent to Ujiji.

Little else occurred during the stay with Chitapanga worthy of special
mention. The frequent returns of illness were nothing uncommon now.
(t was sad indeed to be so great a sufferer, and deprived of the relief
'vhich he could have found in his medicine-box. We cannot imagine a
more painful experience than the consciousness of failing health in a far
away heathen land without a single remedy at hand.

At length, after repeated misunderstandings and compromises with
Chitapanga, all growing out of the unpardonable interference of the boys,
who presumed to interpret the conversation according to their ideas o^

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(285)

236

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i u:

what it was best should be said, Dr. Livingstone prepared to leave. He
says: < ,<,.,. ui<-/. ... . , .,

" I told the chief before starting that my heart was sore because he
was not sending me away so cordially as I Hked. He at once ordered
men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife with ivory sheath, which
he had long worn as a memoria'. He explained that we ought to go
north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately be obliged to turn
west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we reached the Lake Tan-
ganyika ; he took a piece of clay off the ground and rubbed it on his
tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and came along with us to
see that all was right ; and so we parted."

The Bold Discoverer Turned A»idc.

Holding a north-westerly course from this point, numerous small rivers
and rivulets were crossed, and in March, he came in sight of Lake
Liemba, which subsequent expl'^'-?.tion proved to be the southern ex-
tremity of Tanganyika. It was Livingstone's dcsi'-e to march up the
shore of the lake and discover at once what its northern connections
were; but news of a Mazitu raid in that direction compc led him to
desist, and he concluded to strike westward, visit Casembe, and explore
Lake Moero, of which he had already heard rumors. This plan he
carried out fully, in spite of many delays; and after his arrival at
Casembe's town, he wrote a despatch to Lord Clarendon, dated Decem-
ber loth, 1867 (which,, however, was never sent), in which he gives an
epitomized description of his travels, and of his stay at Casembe.- This
despatch is especially valuable because it treats of the geography of the
whole district between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, and we reproduce it
nearly entire:

The altitude of this upland is from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the level
of the sea. It is generally covered with forest, well watered by numerous
rivulets, and comparatively cold. The soil is very rich, and yields
abundantly wherever cultivated. This is the watershed between the
Loangwa, a tributary of the Zambesi, and several rivers which flow
towards the north. Of the latter, the most remarkable is the Chambeze,
for it assists in the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three
times in the five or six hundred miles of its course.

On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded north-
wards, perceived by t'te barometers and the courses of numerous rivulets,
that a decided slope lay in that direction. A friendly old Ulungu chief,
named Kasonso, on hearing that ! wished to visit Lake Liemba, which
lies in his comtrv, rave his son with a large escort to guide me thither;

[ft ■ tJ - : ' ^i' «

i;'. "ii

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

237

re.

luse he
ordered
I, which
it to go
to turn
ke Tan-
t on his
ith us to

all rivers
of Lake
hern ex-
1 up the
inections
1 him to
1 explore
; plan he
irrival at
Decem-
gives an
De.- This
ly of the
roduce it

the level
lumerous
Id yields
/een the
lich flow
liambeze,
Inie three

[d north-
rivulets,
Ijiu chiff,
|a, which
thither ;

and early in April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like
cavity in which the lake reposes. The descent is 2,000 feet, and still the
surface of the water is upwards of 2,500 feet above the level of the sea.

Bcaiititul Cascades.

The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes the rocks run the
whole 2,000 feet sheer down to the water. Nowhere is there three miles
of level land from the foot of the clififs to the shore, but top, sides, and
bottom are covered with well-grown wood and grass, except where the
bare rocks protrude. The scenery is extremely beautiful. A stream of
fifteen yards broad and thigh deep came down alongside our precipitous
path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These, with
the bright red of the clay schists among the greenwood-trees, made the
dullest of my attendants pause and remark with wonder. Antelopes,
buffaloes, and elephants abound on the steep slopes ; and hippopotomi,
crocodiles, and fish swarm in the water. Gnus may live to old age
if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants sometimes eat the crops
of the natives, and flap their big ears just outside the village stock-
ades. One got out of our way on to a comparatively level spot,
and then stood and roared at us. Elsewhere they make clear off at
sight of man.

The first village we came to on the banks of the lake had a grove of
palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm-tree was not the dwarf
species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the fruit passed the door of
my hut which required two men to carry it. The fruit seemed quite as
large as those on the West Coast. Most of the natives live on two
islands, where they cultivate the soil, rear goats, and catch fish.

We remained six weeks on the shores of the lake, trying to pick up
some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu after us
in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had preceded them,
naturally inquired where I was. But our friends, the Biiulungu, suspect-
ing that mischief was meant, stoutly denied that they had seen anything
of the sort and then became very urgent that I should go on to one of
the inhabited islands for safety.

Ciinuiti^ Natives. « ■

I regret that I suspected them of intending to make nie a prisoner
there, which they could easily have done by removing the canoes j but
when the villagers who deceived the Arabs told me afterwards with an
air of triumph how nicely they had managed, I saw that they had only
been anxious for my safety. On three occasions the same friendly dis-
position was shown ; and when we went round the west side of the lake

if i':t

238

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

in order to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the hea,l-mai
at the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my going
— the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for an Arab,
and killed — that I felt half-inclined to believe him. Two Arab slave
entered the village the same afternoon in search of ivory, and coiifirmeo
all he had said. *

We now altered our course, intending to go south about the district
disturbed by the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that thf
head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles farther. They had found
ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a chief
named Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They were now
at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's village, I found
them about 600 in all ; and, on presenting a letter I had from the Sultan
of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions, beads, and rloth.
They approved of my plan of passing to the sojth of Nsama's countrj',
but advised waiting till the effects of punishment, which the Baulungu
had resolved to inflict on Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It
had always been understood that whoever brought goods into the country
was to be protected ; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the
son of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was
anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would leave nie a
free passage through his country ; if to the south, I might be saved
from walking into his hands.

Xot Anximis to Marry an Africaii Fselle.

But it turned out thai; Nsama was an.xious for peace. He bad sent
two men with elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation ; but treachery was
suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with ten
gcats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head Arabs.
It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods vere not all sold, for Lake
Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace no ivory could be
bought, nor could I reach the lake.

The peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, s
tedious process, occupying three and a half months drinking each other's
blood. I thought that had I been an Arab I could easily swallow that
but not the ne.xt means of cementing the peace — marrying a black wife
Nsama's daughter wa.s the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She
came riding pickaback on a man's shoulders; this is the most dignified
conveyance that chiefs and their families can command. She had ten
maids with her, each carrying a basket of provisions, and all he zing the
same beautiful features as herself. She was taken by the principal Arab,

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

239

V going
n Arab,
b slaves
311 firm CO

: district
that Wv
id found
ly a chief
,vere now
, I found
le Sultan
nd floth.
; country,
Riiulungu
cnown. It
le country
mba's, the
;, It was
cave tne a
be saved

had sent

[chcry was

with ten

fad Arabs.

for Lake

could be

lowever, a
kh other's
lUow that
black wife.
:tty. She

dignified
le had ten

./ing the
ipal Arab,

but soon showed that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing
preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected tliat her
father was to be attacked, and made her escape.

I then visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near

A CHIKK's most Dir.NIFIF.D CONVKVANCF.,

bim, took only three of my eight atton hints. His people were /e*^-
nuich afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see if I had any con-
cealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with head and face like
those .sculptured on the Assyrian monuments. Me has betn a great

\i ■' ' ' '■'

■sir V-
;* ■..<t:;

Hi' *e

240

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

h\ :

I-

i3-

1 1

conqueror in his time, and with bows and arrows was invincible. He is
said to have destroyed many native traders from Tanganyika, but twenty
Arab guns nidde him flee from his own stockade, and caused a great
sensation in the country.

He was much taken with my hair and woolen clothing; but his people,
heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we could not converse,
and, after promising to send for me to talk during the night, our inter-
view ended. He promised guides to Moero, and sent us more provisions
than we could carry ; but showed so much distrust, that after all we went
i'ithout his assistance.

Remarkably Handsome Natives.

Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men have as
beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of Europeans. All have
ver)'- fine forms, with small hands and feet. None of the West-coast
ugliness, from which most of our ideas of the Negroes are derived, is here
to be seen. No prognathous jaws nor lark heels offend the sight. My
observations deepened the impression first obtained from the remarks of
Winwood Reade, that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient Egyptian,
and not in the ungainly forms which grow up in the unhealthy swamps
of the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that this upland forest region
is the true home of the Negro. The women excited the admiration of
the Arabs. They have fine, small, well-formed features; their great
defect is one of fashion, which does not extend to the next tribe ; thc\-
file their teeth to points, the hussies, and that makes their smile like that
of the crocodile.

Nsama's country is called Itawa. From the large population he had
under him, Itawa is in many parts well cleared of trees for cultivation,
and it is lower ♦^han Ulungu, being generally about 3,000 feet above the
sea. Long lines of tree-covered hills raised some 600 or 700 feet above
these valleys of denudation, prevent the scenery from being monotonous.
Large game is abundant. Elephants, buffaloes and zebras grazed in
large numbers on the long sloping banks of a river called Chisera, a mile
and a half broad. In going north, we crossed this river, or rather marsh,
which is full of papyrus plants or reeds. Our ford was an elephant's
path ; and the roots of the papyrus, though a carpet to the.se animals.
v/ere sharp and sore to feet usually protected by shoes, and often made
us shrink and flounder into holes chest deep. The Chisera forms a
larger marsh west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a
feeder of Lake Moero.

The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; but their

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

241

He is

:wenty
I great

people,
nverse,
r inter-
)vision.s
ve went

have as
VU have
:st-coast
I, is here
ht. My
narks of
gyptian.
swamps
^t region

victory over Nsama had created a panic among th^ tribes, which no
verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been, routed by twenty
Arab guns, no one could stand before them but Casembe ; and Casembe
had issued strict orders to his people not to allow the Arabs ^vho fought
N'sama to enter his country. They did not attempt to force their way,

CASEMBE Di<ESSED TO RECEIVE LIVINGSTONE.

"I'jt after sending friendly messages and presents to different chiefs, when

tlicse were not cordially recei.cJ, turned off in some other direction, and

at last, despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last

thi-y were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to the

Sultan's letter.

i.;T

I f.,

if.'I'

'K-

242

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that it
was thought well to ascertain the length of the lake, and see Casembe
too. We came up between the double range that flanks the east of the
lake ; but mountains and plains are so covered with well-grown forest that
we could seldom see it. We reached Casembe's town late in November.
It stands near the north end of a lakelet ; this is from one to three
miles broad, and some six or seven long; it is full of sedgy islands
and abounds in flsh.

The town of Casembe covers a mile square of cassava plantations, the
huts being dotted over that space. Some have square enclosures of
reeds, but no attempt has been made at arrangement; it might be called
a rural village rather than a town. No estimate could be formed by
counting the huts, they are so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava;
but my impression from other collections of huts was that the population
was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of Casembe —
some would call it a palace — is a square enclosure of 300 yards by 200
yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high reeds.

His Itoyal Highness Casembe.

Inside, whe:e Casembe honored me with a grand reception, stands a
gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for domestics. The
•queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with a number of small huts
also. Most of the enclosed space is covered with a plantation of cassava
and cotton. Casembe sat before his hut on a square seat placed on lion
.and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and white Manchester
print edged with red baize, and arranged in large folds so as to look like
a crinoline put on wrong side formost. His arms, legs, and head were
covered with sleeves, leggings and cap made of various colored beads in
neat patterns. Each of his head-men came forward, shaded by a huge,
lill-made umbrella, and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to
Casembe, and sat down on his right and left : various bands of musicians
did the same.

When called upon I rose and bowed, and an old counsellor, with his
ears cropped, gave the chief as full an account as he had been able tc
gather during our stay of the English in general, and my antecedents ii
particular. My having passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe.
and visited chiefs of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most atten-
tion. He then assured me that I was welcome to his country, to gc
where I liked, «nd do what I chose. We then went to an inner apart-
ment, where the articles of my present were exhibited in detail. He had
examined thena privately before, and we knew that he was satisfied

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT.

243

They consisted of eight yards of orange-colored serge, a large striped
tablec oth ; another large cloth made at Manchester in imitation of West
Coast native manufacture, which never fails to excite the admiration of
Arabs and natives, and a large richly gilded comb for the back hair, such
as ladies wore fifty years ago : this was given to me by a friend at Liver-
pool, and as Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair into large
knobs behind, I was sure that this article would tickle the fancy.
Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again bade me welcome.
Friirlitfiil Stories of Human Sacrifices.

The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to have varied
much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first visitor, said (I quote
trom memory) that Casembe had 20,000 trained soldiers, watered his
streets daily, and sacrificed twenty human victims every day. I could
hear nothing of human sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the
present Casembe could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When
he usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled ; but
he was so severe in his putshments — cropping the ears, lopping off the
hands, and other mutilations, selling the children for very slight offences,
that his subjects gradually dispersed themselves in the neighboring
countries beyond his power. This is the com ncn mode by which
tyranny is cured in parts like these, where fugitives are never returned.
The present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed
elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of the ivory
with his sul ordinates.

The elephant hunters have either left him or neglect hunting, so he
his no tusks to sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika.
Major Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to
have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other of his
nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much by remaining
away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that Casembe ever can have to
sell. About a month to the west of this the people of Katanga smelt
copper-ore (malachite) into large bars shaped like the capital letter I.
They may be met with of from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs. weight all over the
country, and the inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and
leglets. Gold is also found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent
to the Sultan of Zanzibar.

Hot Springs and Eai*thquakes.

As we come down from the watershed toward Tanganyika we enter an
area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous action. A
hot fountain in the country of Ns^ma is often used to boil cassava and

:?!

>•■

Mv\

.M, .

M,;i-

244

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

maize. Earthquakes are by no means rare. We experienced the shock
of one while at Chitimba's village, and they extend as far as Casembe's.
1 felt as if afloat, and as huts would not fall there was no sense of danger;
some of them that happened at night set the fowls a-cackling. The
most remarkable effect of this one was that it changed the rates of the
:hronomctcrs ; no rain fell after it. Some of Nsama's people ascribed
the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed unusual commo-
tion on these occasions.

The foregoing is Livingstone's interesting account of the country
through which he passed. A few days after his arrival at Lake Liemba,
Livingstone had an attack vMch sh-iwe 1 him the power of f^ver when
unchc cd by m-jdicir ,, ind ''=?r ^..^c of his symptoms at Casembe's
made him anxious to proceed tx^ Ujiii n order to recuperate and replenish
his stores before pursuing his ex^ iativ n ., He actually set out for Lake
Tanganyika, but was soon convinced tiiat the intervening country was
impassable until the rainy season was over. This involved a delay of
several months, and before these had passed and the season for travel
come round again, he had determined to explore Lake Bangweolo before
going north. He hopjd to complete the exploration early in i868; but
owing first to the desertion of several of his men who refused to turn
back, and secondly to Casembe's postponements and delays, it was June
before he started from Casembe's town on his way south. His journey
was wholly without incident requiring special mention, unless we except
one which has rather more of a personal interest than Livingstone often
imparted even to his private diaries.

A Grave in a Strange Land.

Under date of June 25th he writes: — "We came to a grave in the
forest; it was a little rounded mound as if the occupant sat in it in the
usual native way : it was strewed over with flour, and a number of the
large blue beads put on it : a little path showed that it had visitors.
This is a sort of grave I should prefer : to lie in the still, still forest, and
no hand ever disturb my bones. The graves at home always seem to me
to be miserable, especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow
room ; but I have nothing to do but wait till He who is over all, decides
where I have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga
brae, 'and beeks foment the sun.' " This is an allusion to Mrs. Living-
stone's grave.

It was^ in July that Dr. Livingstone discovered one of the largest of
the Central African lakes ; and it is extraordinary to notice the total
absence of all pride and enthusiasm, as — almost parenthetically — he

LIVINGSTONE LOST IN T..E DARK CONTINEMT,

245

records the fact. " Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near the north
bank of Bangweolo. Cn the 13th I walked a little way out, and saw the
shores of the lake for the first time, thankful that I had come safely
Ivither." He made a canoe voyage during the next few days which gave
him an idea of its size, and he thinks he is considerably within the mark
in tting down B^ng.veol*^ as 150 miles long, by 80 broad.

, iie reader mus*^ have discovered by this time that everything in
Africa is upon a large scale — great ivers, thick jungle!^, wide stretches
of -ount'/ unpeopled, tremendous waterfalls, and all natural objects
g .at with the exception of mountains. These in their loftiest grandeur
are not to be <b.inu m the Dark Continent.

It is also seen that there is a great abundance of animal life. Here is
the home of the elephant, the lion, the hippopotamus, the rhinoceros,
the zebra, the giraffe and animals of less size, but swift in their move-
ments and beautiful in appearance. Reptihs also abound, V' vvell as
monkeys and gorillas, and the traveller in Africa meets wi> h nstant
surprises as well as constant dangers. In years past msu/ha,;, gone
out to South Africa for the purpose of hunting and en ..,:u. ; in wild
sports. Marvellous tales have been told by these adventui rs of their
achievements, some of which we shall have occasion to -tire hereafter,
^ivingstone was not, properly speaking, a sportsman, yet, of course, he
carried his gun ^-'nd other arms, but never more than once or twice had
occasion to use them except for the purpose of obtaining food for his
expeditions.

One of the noticeable features of Livingstone's journeys is the facility
with which he gains the friendship of the natives, comes into pleasant
relations with the chiefs, secures what is needful for his men, and is able,
if occasion offers, to return and be welcomed by those whom he has met
before. Nothing could better show the nobility of his nature, the large-
ness of his heart, the sympathy that he had for all men, as well as the
consummate tact which he displayed in dealing with savage tribes.

I.::'.

h:] ;.^

■■'if)

.f"

1 ',

' 'I

CHAPTER XI.
TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

Great Excitement Among the Natives by the Presence of a White Man — Cniise on a
Large Lake— Strike of Canoe-Men — Only a Coverlet with which to hire anothej
Canoe -Food Obtained by Shooting Buffaloes — Fine Sport for the Hunter—How
the Buffalo is Hunted— Thrilling Adventure with the Huge Brutc-A Hi)titn»ot
Dodging in the Bushes— Terrible Foe — Adventure of a Friend of Livinj^stone -
A Dangerous Meeting with Two Lions — Charge of a Mad Buffalo — Livingstone
Pursues His Journey — A Country Convulsed by War— Mohammed ami oihtr
Arab Traders— Flight for Life— Livingstone Pacifies the Natives — Rttuii) o\
Deserters— Start for Ujiji— Serious Illness— A Dauntless Hero— Encounter wiHi
an Elephant— Beautiful Monkeys in the Forest — Thousands of An is on ihe
March — Graphic Description of Manyuema — Degraded Tribe of Cannibals-
Market Scene in Manyuema — Terrible Massacre — Disastrous Attempt to Go
Forward — Lake Named after President Lincoln— The Explorer's Account of the
Soko — Freaks of a Strange Animal— A Wild Creature that Never Attacks
Women — Amusing Female Soko — Ten Men with Stores Meet Livingstone-
Shocking Barbarity — Hundreds of Lives Lost —Shameful Cruelty and Destruc-
tion — Off on Foot for Ujiji — Near to Death— People Who Eat Their Enemies-
Arrival at Ujiji — Sick, Worn out and m Desperate Straits.

MEARKING on the lake in a fine canoe, with five stout men a",
propellers, Livingstone in a few hours reached an island where he
remained a short time, going on before night to the more import-
ant Mbahala, where his appearance created the greatest excitement
amongst the natives, who had never before seen a white man. Walkinj^
across to the north end of the island, Livingstone ascertained it to be
about one mile broad, and from the eastern point he made out a larger
island on the right, called by the natives Chirubi, and said to contain a
large population, possessing many sheep and goats. These minor facts
determined, our hero prepared to continue his voyage, hoping to pass, i!
he could not touch at, the spot where the Lualaba leaves Lake Bang-
'veolo on its journey to Moero. *

But, alas! in July the canoe-men struck. They had heard of a medi-
i-ated attack upon their little bark; they dared not remain longer on the.
lake ; but if Livingstone liked to stay on Mbahala they would come
and fetch him presently, when all danger was over. Believing this to be
a gotten up tale to avoid further work in his service, their wages having
been paid in advance, the unfortunate explorer at first thought of seizins;
their paddies, and ap[)caUng to the head-man of the island. Reflecting

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES

247

still further, however, that he was entirely in their power, and that tht;
islanders would probably side with them, he resolved to bear ** with
meekness, though groaning inwardly," the disappointment inflicted upon
him.

" I had only," says Livingstone, " my coverlet to hire another canoe,
u\d it was now very cold ; the few beads left would all be required to
buy food on the way back. I might have got food by shooting buffaloes,
but that on foot, and through grass with stalks as thick as a goosequill, is
dreadfully hard work." Back then he must go to Masantu's, compelled
to trust to native reports, for the present at least, for his computation ot
distances, etc., on the lake.

Livingstone's reference to getting food by shooting buffaloes shows

how abundant these animals are in the southern part of Africa. This is

one of the attractions of this part of the continent for the hunter,

although our grca: explorer seldom hunted merely for sport. Travellers

<;ive us interesting accounts of the African buffalo and the excitement of

the chase.

Fine Sport for the Huuter.

In the first place, he is a handsome animal, of graceful shape, and a
giant in strength ; in his native wilds he is just a peaceful grazer, con-
tented to pass his life cropping grass and green leaves, and to interfere
with no animal, human or other ; but, challenge him to war, and the
fiercest hunter could not desire bolder game ; capture and tame him, and
lie will draw your plough or wagon as submissively as the ox. He is a
faithful friend, and will fight to the death on behalf of his companions,
and for the sake of his young will do battle with the Hon himself

Of retiring habits, they affect vast solitudes where verdure abounds,
and there is no lack of rivers and pools in which they may luxuriate,
immersing themselves till only their heads appear above the surface, cool-
ing their leathery hides and getting respite from the formidable stiiiging
things that fly, or the biters that closely adhere to their bodies. If water
is unattainable, the buffalo will content himself with mud, if there is
plenty of it. Throwing himself flat upon his side in the mire, he shui-
rles round and round, the soil yielding to his immense weight the exuda-
tion of any moisture there may be, till he manufactures for himself a
delicious basin of mortar, covering him to his very eyes.

When he rises and walks off he presents a decidedly unhandsome ap-
pearance, which is not improved when, in the course of an hour or Si>,
the sun bakes his mud crust, and he looks, when standing still, like
some hideous clay image. Ease, however, is of conside» ably moie im-

}t . i

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WONDERS OF THE TROUCS.

/H»rtancc Jo the buffalo than elegance, and until the motion of his
limbs causes his ujjly coat to peel off he may defy all the vermin in tlu;
world.

When Captain Mcthucn and his party were huntin;^ .it the Cape of
(jood Hope he had an opportunity of judgin^j how terril)le a b^-ast the
bull buffalo is when wounded and hard driven by the darin^jj sportsman
With the captain were a Hottentot attendant, named Frolic, and a friciu;
named Moneypenny, and having discovered a herd of b'.iffaloes, the trui
let fly at them, wounding so:rie, but not so badly but. that the entire
nrove escaped to an impenetrable patch of forest. The captain, however.
climbed into a t.ee, and thereby sighted and shot another bull, whereon
"the wounded animal ran toward the report, his cars outstretched, his
pyes moving in all directions, and his nose carried in a right line with the
head, evidently bent on revenge. He passed within thirty yards of nie,
and was lost in the bush. Descentlingfrom our frail perch, Frolic again
discovered this buffalo standing among some small thick bushes which
marly hid him from view; his head was lowered, not a muscle of the
body moved, and he was without d.^ubt listening intently. We crept
noiselessly to a bush and I again fired.

<*Hi.s Horn Struck the M'.izzlc of the Gun.*'

"The huge brute ran forward with the wind, fortunately not in our di-
rection, and again stood still. Presently he lay gently down, and know-
ing that buffaloes are exceedingly cunning, and will adopt this plan
merely to escape notice and entrap their persecutors, we drew near with
great caution. I again fired through his shoulder, and concluded from
his not attempting to rise that he was helpless. We walked close up to
him, and never can the scene which followed be erased from my memory.
Turning his ponderous head round, his eye caught our figures. I fired
the second barrel of my rifle behind his horns, but it did not reach the
brain. His wounds gave him some difficulty in getting up, which afford-
ed Moneypenny and myself just time to ensconce ourselves behind the
Slender shrubs that grew round the spot, while Frolic unwisely took tc
his heels. The bufifalo saw him, and uttering a continued unearthly noist
between a grunt and a bellow, advanced at a pace at which these unwieldy
creatures are rarely seen to run, unless stirred by revenge.

•'Crashing through the low bushes as if they were stubble, he passed
me. but charged quite over Moneypenny's lurking-place, who aimed at
him as he came on, and lodged the ball in the rocky mass of horn above
his head ; the buffalo was so near at the time of his firing that his horn
struck the barrel of the gun the next instant; but whether the noise and

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

. smoke confused the animal, or he was partially stunned by the bullet, h;
missed my friend, and continued in pursuit of Frolic.

"The Hottentot dodged the terrible brute round the bushes, but
through these slight obstacles it dashed with ease and gained ground
rapidly. Speechless we watched the chase, and in the awful moment,
regardless of concealment, stood up and saw the buffalo overtake his
victim and knock him down. At this crisis my friend fired his second
barrel at the beast, which gave* Frolic one or two blows with his fore-feet
and pushing his nose under, endeavored to toss him; but the Hottentot
aware of this, with much presence of mind lay perfectly still. Directly
after the buffalo stumbled and fell dead, and Frolic got on his legs and
limped toward us. He was much hurt, and the powder-flask m Ins
game-bag was stamped quite flat."

A Terr*!::.,? Foe.

Although of a pacific disposition, the buffalo will defend himself with
astonishing courage against the attacks of either man or beast when
brought to bay. The bear has no chance with, and even the cunnin^r
tige; dare not face the buffalo's terrible horns, and can only obtain the
mastery by lying in ambush and springing on to the buffalo's flanks.
The buffalo cow will attack the lion fearlessly in defence of her young.
Dr. Livingstone asserts that a toss from the buffalo will often kill a lion,
and thit he had seen two who had evidently come to their death by the
horns of the buffalo.

In a letter to his friend Dr. Livingstone, Mr. Vardon thus describes a
terrific struggle between a buffalo and three lions as witncs.sed and
assisted at by himself and Mr. Oswell, on the banks of the Limpopo : —
"Oswcll and I were riding along the banks of the river when a water-
buck started in front of us. I dismounted, and was following it throuijh
the jungle, when three buffaloes got up, and after going a little distance
stood still, and the nearest bull turned round and looked at me. A ball
from a two-ouncer crashed into his shoulder, and they all three trade olT.
Oswell and I followed as soon as I had reloaded, and when we were in
sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him every stride, three lions leaped
on the unfortunate brute.

" He bellowed most lustily as he kept up a running fight, but he war o!
course soon overpowered and pulled down. We had a fine view of the
struggle, and saw the lions on their hind-legs tearing away with teeth
and claws in the most ferocious style. W? crept uj) within thirty yards,
and kneeling down blazed away at the lions. My riflj was a single
barrel, and I had no spare gun. One lion fell dead almost on the buffalo;

le war. o!

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

251

he had merely time to turn towards us, seize a bush with his teeth, and
drop dead with the stick in his jaws.

"The second made off directly; and the third raised his head coolly,
looked around for a moment, then went on tearing and biting at the
carcase as hard as ever. We retired a short distance to load, then again
id>/anced and fired. The lion made off, but the ball that he had received
ought to have stopped him, as it went clear through his shoulder-blade.
He was followed up and killed, after having charged several times. Both
lions were males. The buffalo had of course gone close to where the
lions were lying down, and they seeing him lame and bleeding, thought the
opportunity too good a one to be lost. It is not often that one bags a
brace of lions and a bull buffalo in about ten minutes,"

Captain Spcke, in his " Journal of the Discovery of the Nile," relates
the experience of a day in hunting the buffalo. Accompanied by two
natives, he had met a large herd early in the day, an3 followed them
some time, killing a cow, and woundmg several others, among them a
bull. "As they knew they were pursued they kept moving on iu short
runs at a time, when, occasionally gaining glimpses of their large dark
bodies as they forced through the bush, I repeated my shots and struck
a good number, some more and some less severely. This was very pro-
voking ; for all of them, being stern shots, were not likely to kill, and
tlie jungle was so thick I could not get a front view of them.

" Presently, however, one with her hind-leg broken pulled up on a
white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down on a charge the instant
I showed myself close to her. One crack of the rifle rolled her over.
Following the spoors, the traces of blood led us up to another ose as
lame as the last. He then got a second bullet in the flank, and, after
hobbling a little, evaded oui sight and threw himself into a bush, where
we no sooner arrived than he plunged headlong at us from his ambush,
just, and only just, giving me time to present my rifle.

** It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with tlv;
instinct of a monkey, made a •iolent spring and swung himself by fj
bough immediately over the beast, while Faraj bolted avay and left mo
single-gunned to polish him off. There was only one coursj to pursue,
ibr in one instant more he would have been into me; so, quick as
thought, I fired the gun, and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after
passing through the edge of one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his
neck, and rolled him over at my feet as dead as a rabbit.

" We commenced retracing our steps. Tracking back to the first post
of attack, we followed the blood of the first bull, till at length I found

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l.im standing like a stuck pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like
to be put out of his misery. Taking compassion, I leveled my gun; but
as bad luck would have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet,
nnd it went ' pinging ' into the air, while the bull went off at a galloi).
To follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten
minutes more, as I opened a small clearance, rifle in hand, the grea'
beast, from the thicket at the opposite side, charged down like a mad bull
full of ferocity — as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the front o)
his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately stooa
betvveen us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly aL his
flank, but without the effect of stopping him; for, as quick as thought,
the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable smoke of
my gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the hci;j;iu of
his head that he could not see me, though I was so close that I might,
had I been possessed of a hntchct, have chopped off his head. This wis
a predicament that looked very ugly, for my boys hid both bolted,
taking with them my guns ; but suddenly the beast, evidently regardiiv^r
the smoke as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned round in
a bustle, to my intense relief, and galloped off at full speed, as if scared
off at some terrible apparition."

Such are some of the thrilling adventures among the wild animals of
Africa. Livingstone often escaped starvation by the expert use of his gun.

Flying: for Life.

Proceeding with our narrative, from Masantu's the march back to
Chikumbi, where Mohammed and his party had been left, was com-
menced, and in August the settlement of an Arab trader named KiMnbo-
kombo, a little to the south of Chikumbi, was reached. Here Living-
stone was cheered by the news that Mohammed was contemplating a
journey west, which would take him to the great Lualaba. '* The way
seems opening before me," he exclaims, "and I am thankfid." ILfore
arrangements for accompanying Mohammed could be made, however,
came rumors of war on the other side of the Lualaba. Syde bin Omar,
an Arab trader from Iramba, the country on 'ts western shores between
Lake IJangweolo and the Rua district, declared it would be madness tc
attempt any explorations in that direction.

Moliamnied therefore readily gave up his scheme for the pres,nt. and
unitetl with Omar in objecting strongly to Livingstone's going with his
small party even down the right bank of the Lualaba, though it was in
sight. Our hero resolved then to wait until all were ready to go, little
dreaming that the delay would last until the beginning of October, that

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

253

the country would be convulsed with war, and that when he did leave
Chikumbi it would be to flee to the north for his life. First came a raid

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from devastating hordes of Mazitu, who were repulsed by the united
forces of the Arab traders and the native chiefs; then a quarrel between
tb» successful allies, rcsultinj^ in an attack, headed by Casembe and

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Chikumbi, on the Arabs, beginning with the Kombokombo mentioned
above.

Confusion now prevailed everywhere. The daily entries in Living-
stone's journals became impossible, but on the 5th of October he writes
how he and his little band of servants were on one occasion surrounded
by a party of fifteen or twenty natives, who attacked them with spear?
and poisoned arrows ; how " one good soul helped them away — a bless
ing be on him and his;" how he narrowly escaped from the hands o'
another chief, who took him and his men for Mazita ; and how, lastly, he
joined forces with the Arab traders, and started north, fences being built
every night to protect the united camps, which were, however, unmolested
till the northern bank of the Kalongosi river was reached.

Here 500 natives were drawn up to dispute the passage, but as Living-
stone and an advanced party with thirty guns crossed over they retired.
Our hero, however, went amongst them, explained who he was, was
Tc-cognizcd by some old acquaintances, and obtained a truce for the
Arabs. All became friendly, an elephant was killed, stores of provisions
were bought, and two days later the march was resumed.

Kabwawata, on the north-west of Lake Moero, was reached, and an-
other long delay ensued before the Arab traders were again ready to
start. The lime was employed by Livingstone in making an exhaustive
resuvtd. of his own work and that of his predecessors in connection with
the Nile, his conviction being that in Lake Bangweolo he had found the
final, or at least one of the final, sources of that great river. The work
of Cameron and Stanley has, however, since proved the Lualaba to be
the upper course, not, as supposed by Livingstone, of the Nile, but of
the Con_;o, and we therefore pass over all that the hero of our present
chapter urges in support of the former view.

ICctiirn of Deserters.

Whilst Livingstone was at Kabwawata he was cheered by the return
of some of the men who had deserted before the trip to Bangweolo, and
now bagged to be taken back. Readily forgiven by their master, whc
observes that there was grc it excuse for them, after the conduct of then
I'ohaniia conirndes, they now became apparently devoted to his servic",
though we r! ill presently have to relate their renewed faithlessness.

Once inort • iirrivmc'ed by the retinue who had come with him from
I^ke Nyassa, Li- -np^.stoiK. .started for Ujiji with the Arabs in December,
his party rid Mo':9a"i;-ied''; leading the way. The march to Tanganyika,
which w.\ f'l a ruirf: licrti-c-ly diuction than the westward journey,
seems to ha L<r« n one 'ong agony to Livingstone. In his journal he

"■■ s .

TKRRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

255

tells of heavy rains imjieding progress, the escape and recapture of slaves,
and the hostility of villagers; but the entries became shorter and shorter,
and on the first of January, 1869, he records that the new year was
opening badly; " he had been wet times without number, but the wel-
ting of yesterday was once too often ; he felt very ill," and in crossing
the Lofuko, within some six weeks* journey of the lake, he was " cold up
to the waist," which made him worse, though he struggled on lor another
two hours and a half.

On the 3d January, after one hour's march, he found himself too weak
to go further; his lungs were affected ; he did not know how the next
few days were passed. A rill was crossed, and sheds were built, but
whether he took any share in the work he cannot tell. " I lost count,"
he says, " of the days of the week and month after this," but about Jaii-
i'.ary 7th he managed to write the following touching sentence:

" I cannot walk. Pneumonia of right lung, and I cough all day and
all night ; distressing weakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great
rapidity and vividness, in groups of twos and threes. If I look at any
piece of wood, the bark seems covered all over with figures and faces of
men, and they remain though I look away and turn to the same spot
again. I saw myself lying dead in the w^^y to Ujiji, and all the letters I
expL'cted there useless. When I think of my children and friends, the
lines run through my head perpetually —

*I shall look into your faces,

And listen to what you say,
And be often very near you

When you think I am far away.*

Mohammed Mogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped

my chest."

Serious Illness.

A little further we have the following entry, dated the 8tl: ruiar)' :
" Mohammed Mogharib offered to carry me. I am so w , I can
scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now — a pretty h it steeply
undulating country. This is the first time in my life I have b n carried
in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sitting posture. food ex-

cept a little gruel. Great distress in coughing all nigli long; fee»
swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a kitanda or
frame, like a cot; carried eight hours one day. We seem near the brim
of Tanganyika. Mohammed Mogharib is very kind to me in my ex-
treme weakness ; but carriage is painful ; head down and feet up alter-
nates with feet down and head up; jolted up and down - 1 Icways —
changing shoulders involves a toss from one side to the other af the

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250

WONDERS Ot »HE trofICS.

kitanda. The sun is vertical, blistering any part of the skin exposed,
and I try to shelter my face and head as well as I can with a bunch of
leaves, but it is dreadfully fatiguing in my weakness."

After this we have no note for five weeks. Theii, on the 14th Feb-
ruary, 1869, the arrival at Tanganyika is announced, succeeded by a few
lines to the effect that Livingstone felt if he did not get to Ujiji, where he
could have proper food and mddicine, soon he must die.

Not until late in the same month, after fearful sufferings in a miserable

hut infested with vermin on the shores of the lake, were canoes obtamcd,

and the transit begun, A little revived by the pure air on the water,

and already near Ujiji, he had hoped soon to be in that village, where he

believed letters from home and stores from Zanzibar must long have been

awaiting him.

The Same Dauntless Hero.

On the 14th of March, Ujiji was at last reached, but, on landing, our
hero found that more than half his goods had been made away with, and
that the road to Unyanyembe was blocked up by a Mazitu war. No
hope of receiving anything more from the east for the present, no hope of
getting home by way of Zanzibar; but not one repining word is uttered
by Livingstone in the now more frequent notes in his journal. Ho says
nothing about the improvement in his health, though that is implied in
the plans he hints at for further researches on the west. No change of
purpose is al'owed to result from all he has undergone. He has reached
Ujiji; he is better. He will make Ujiji the starting point for a journey
direct to Manyuema, flir away on the north-west, not only of Moero, but
of that other unseen lake known as Kamolondo, and supposed by him to
be the most northerly and elevated of the series of which Bangweolo is
probably the lowest and most soutiierly.

Forty-twcr letters were now written home, and entrusted to Arabs for
transmission to Zanzibar, but they never reached their destination, and
are supposed to have been wantonly destroyed. One ingenious theory
respect t g the relation of Tanganyika to the other lakes of Central
Africa is worked out after another — what is the meaning of the current-
.netting towards the north ? — is the long narrow sheet of water only a
river after all ? — if a lake, has it an outlet, and, if so, where is that outlet?
— such are some of the questions propounded, but not answered, by the
great explorer, as he bides his time for an opportunity to go and see the
great rivers reported to intersect Manyuema, that unknown country of
which little more than ruaiors had then reached even the 1 •'ab traders of
Ujiji.

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

267

Presently came rumors of vast herds of elephants in Manyuema, and
of a sturdy race of blacks differing essentially from any of those yet met
with. A horde of Arabs determined to go and test the truth of these
reports.

The dangers incident to elephant hunting; in all this part of Africa arc
vividly seen in the following narrative, related by a member of a hunting
party who was a participant in the perilous sport :

" We had bagged a good many birdi?, when a beautiful little gazelle
came bounding across our path. It put me in mii.d of an Italian grey-
hound, only it had a longer neck and was somewhat larger. I was quite

HUNTER ATTACKED BV A BULL ELEPHANT.

sorry when Chickango (a native connected with our party), firing, knocked
it over. It was, however, a welcome addition to our game bag. He
called it Ncheri. It was the most elo{:;ant little creature I met with in
Africa among the numberless beautiful animals which abound in the re-
gions we passed through,

*' We were at the time proceeding along the foot of a hill. Scarcely
had he fired, when a loud trumpeting was heard, and directly afterwards
we saw a negro rushing through the underwood, followed by a huge ele-
phant. 'Up! up the hill!' cried Chickango, suiting the action to the
word. I followed, for as we were wishing to kill birds alone, my gun was
loaded only with small shot. The elephant made towards us. The negro

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268

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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stranger came bounding on. Chickango and I had got some way up the
hill, but Wilson, one of oar number, who s'ood his ground, was onga<a'd
in ramming home a bullet. The elephant had all the time been kecpinfr
one eye on the black and one on us.

"When I thought he was on the point of seizing us, he suddenly turned
on his first assailant. The black darted to a tree, when the elephant
seizing him with his trunk, threw him with tremendous force to the ground.
This enabled Wilson to spring up after us; and the hill being very steep,
with rolling stones, we hoped that we were there safe from the infuriated
beast. It cast a glance at the unfortunate black, who was endeavoring to
crawl away along the ground. Again the elephant was about to seize
him with his trunk, and in an instant would have crushed him to death,
when Wilson, raising his gun, fired, and struck the creature in the most
vulnerable part — behind the ear. The ball must have entered the brain,
for, sinking down instantly, it rolled over, and, we thought, must have
killed the black by its weight.

«'He wa» Still Breatliint;.**

"We hurried down, hoping that there might yet be time to save the
poor fellow's life, regardless at the moment of our victory, which, with
hi'nters in general, would have been a cause of triumph. As we got
round, we found the black had narrowly escaped being crushed to death;
indeed, as i' '\.\s, his legs appeared to lie almost under the monster's back.
We drew him out, however, and to our satisfaction found that he was still
breathing. Chickango said that he belonged to the Bakeles, and was
probably a chief hunter among them. As, however, we were much nearer
our own abode than th nr village, Wilson and I agreed to carry him
with us, somewhat I fanned, to Chickango's astonishment. 'Oh! he
black fellow, he die; what use carry?' he remarked. Of course we kept
our own opinion, hoping that with our doctor's skill the poor man might
recover. He was unable to speak, and was indeed apparently uncon-
scious,

'"Had my rifle been loaded with ball, I .should have saved that pool
fellow the last fearful crush; and in the future we must not go without
one or two of our fowling-pieces loaded with ball,' observed Wilson ram-
ming down a bullet into his rifle."

" Chickango and I did the same. We then constructed a rough littei
on which we placed the injured negro. We bore him along, a porter and
Chickango carrying the head and I the feet part of the litter. We found
the weight considerable, especially over the rough ground we had to
traverse, but the life of a fellow-creature depended upon our perseverance.

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TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

25^

Chickango carefully noted the spot where the elephant lay, that we might
return as soon as possible for some of the meat and the tusks, which were
vrery large. We reached the spot where our friends were cutting out the
canoe jast as they were about to leave it, and we were thankful to have
their assistance in carrying (he stranger. The doctor instantly applii c
himself to examining the hurts of the negro. He found that his left arn,,

A FAMIIY OF LION MONKEYS.

had been broken, and the ribs on the same side severely crushed. 'The
injuries might be serious for a white man,' he observed; 'but the blood
of an African, unhealed by the climate, escapes inflammation, and I havt"
hopes that he may recover.' Chickango was very eager to set out im-
mediately, in order to bring in the eleahant's tusks and some meat, but
Wilson considered that it was too late in the day, and put off the expedi-
tion till the following morning.

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260

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

"We were somewhat later in starting tlian we intended. We carried
baskets and ropes, to bring with us the ivory and a supi)ly of meat. On
reacliing tlic spot, however, where the hui^e monster lay, we found that
others had been before us. Tiie tusks were gone, and a portion of the
flesh. Innumerable birds of prey, also, were tearing away at it, or seatrd
on the surrounding trees devouring the pieces they had carried off, wliilv
hyenas, already gorged, crept sulkily away, doubting whether they should
attack us or not. The spectacle was almost ghastly, and it showed how
soon a mountain of flesh nu'ght disappear in that region.

noaiitil'iil Little Moiiltcys.

"Chickango was greatly disappointed, as not a particle of flesh whii li
he could touch remained, while, of course, we regretted the loss of the
valuable tusks. On our way back, we caught sight of a number i)f beau-
tiful little monkeys skipping about in the trees. Chickango called them
"oshingui." They were the smallest I ever saw. Iklow the trees where
they had their abode ran a small stream; and Chickango told me they
were very fond ofAvater, and were never found at a distance from it. On
the same trees, and playing with them, were numerous birds, called mon-
key-birds from their apparent attachment to those creatures.

"We saw another very beautiful little bird, with an extremely long flowing
tail of pure milk-white. It had a crest on its head of a greenish black,
and its breast \Vas of the same color, while lower down the feathers were
of an ashy brown. Snow-white feathers on the back rose up, like those
of the birds of paradise, to which it had a strong resemblance. Soon
after this I saw some creatures on the ground, and catching hold of one
of them, I found it was an enormous ant of a greenish white color, with
a head of a reddish black. The fangs were so pow-erful that when I put
my fingers to them, they literally tore a piece of flesh out.

" ' Why, these creatures would cat us all up, if we were to encounter
them as we did those the other day,' I remarked.

" * No fear massa,' answered a native. * Dey no come in same way.
Dey no go into house, no climb tree, and only just a few hundred or
t'ousand march together.'

" It was satisfactory to hear this, for really I felt that should an army
invade us, we might have more reason to dread them than the blacks
.iiemselves. I was not sorry to miss the elephant flesh, fori had not for
gotten the tough morsals we had placed between our teeth when pi
sentcd to us by the friendly blacks soon after we landed."

The journey to Manyuema commenced on the I2th of July, |S((
After crossing the lake, the line of march was directly north-west uiu .

I -

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

2G1

|S('(,
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Bambarre, tlie district of a friendly chief named Moenekuss was reached
in September. Numerous rivers and minor streams were crossed on the
way, some flowing into Tanganyika, and others westward the Lualaba;
the district near the lake is mountainous and covered with dense forests.
The Manyuema country is described by Livingstone as surpassingly
beautiful.

Palms crown the
highest heights of the
mountains, and their
gracefully bended
fronds wave beauti-
fully in the wind ;
and the forests, usu-
ally about five miles
broad, between
groups of villages,
are indescribable.
Climbers of cable
size in great numbers
r.re hung among the
gigantic trees, many
unknown wild fruits
abound, some the
size of a child's head,
and strange birds and
monkeys are every-
where. The soil is
excessively rich, and
the people, although
isolated by old feuds
that are never settled,
cultivate largely.

They have selected
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round into a hook, and hedges sonic eighteen feet high are made by insert
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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a hatch for the grain beneath or
inside it. This upright granary forms a solid-looking wall round the vil-
lages, and the people are not stingy, but take down the maize and hand
it to the men freely.

The streets of the villages often run east and west, in order that the
bright blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The
dwelling houses are generally in line, with public meeting-houses at each
end, opposite the middle of the street ; the roofs are low, but well
thatched with a leaf resembling the banana-leaf, from which the water
runs quickly off. The walls are of well-beaten clay, and screened from
the weather. Inside, the dwellings are clean and comfortable, and before
the Arabs came, bugs were unknown. In some places, where the south-
east rains are abundant, the Manyuema place the back of the houses to
this quarter, and prolong the low roof down, so that the rain does not
reach the walls. These clay walls stand for ages, and men often return
to the villages they left in infancy and build again the portions that
many rains have washed away. Each housewife has from twenty-five to
thirty earthen pots slung to the ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tas-
sels ; and often as many neatly-made baskets hung up in the same fashion,
and much firewood.

The population is very large, and the people are fine-looking ; Living-
stone thinks that a crowd of Londoners, divested of their clothing and
set opposite a crowd of Manyuema, would make a sorry spectacle. The
people are very naked, answering to Cowper's lines:

" Time was, when clothing, sumptuous or for use,
. Save their own painted skins, our sires had none,
As yet black breeches were not ; satin, smooth,
Or velvet soft, or plush with shaggy pile ;
The hardy chief upon the rugged rock
Washed by the sea, or on the grav'ly bank
Thrown up by wintry torrents roaring loud,
Fearless of wrong, reposed his weary strength."

The natives plait the hair into the form of a basket behind ; ft is first
rolled into a very long coil, then wound around something till it is about
eight or ten inches long, projecting from the back of the head. The
Manyuema, with their great numbers, their favored country, and their
industrious habits, would seem to possess all the elements of a strong
and progressive nation ; but they are among the most barbarous tribes
of Central Africa.

They are cannibals of the most degraded sort, for they eat the bodies
of those who die of disease; they are suspicious, vindictive, and cruel;

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

263

and they are so quarrelsome and treacherous that inhabitants of one
village or district seldom dare venture beyond the confines of the next.
Even Livingstone's large charity, quickened as it was by the outrages to
which,he saw them subjected at the hands of the Arabs, could find but
little that was good in them except their physique. " The Manyuema,"
lie says, after a long stay among them had made him familiar with their
habits, " arc the most bloody, callous savages I know ; one puts a scarlet
feather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges those near to
stick it in the hair : he who does so must kill a man or woman ! An-
other custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, ngawa,
unless he has murdered somebody : guns alone prevented them from
killing us all, and for no reason either."

One of the great institutions of the Manyuema country is their mar-
kets, held in certain villages and at stated times. Even in war-time mar-
ket people are allowed to pass freely to and from the fairs with their
wares. People from distant districts collect here, and exchange their
surplus product for Manyuema luxuries. Fish-wives, goat-herds, slave-
owners ; dealers in ivory, palm oil, pottery, skins, cloth, and iron-ware ;
sellers of fruit, vegetables, salt, grain, and fowls, all mingle in the motley
throng, and shout the merits of their particular goods at the top of their
lungs, and with a perseverance and ardor that would make the fortune
of an auctioneer at home. Strange varieties of savage costume and no
costume are to be seen in these groups : the wild Balegga man-eater
stalking side by side with the white-skirted Moslem man-hunter from
Zanzibar ; and the plumed, painted, tattooed, and bespangled chieftain
laying his dignity temporarily aside to chaffer with a poor commoner in
his simple waistcloth, over the price of a pig or of a mess of roasted
white ants.

Dreadful Massacre.

At Nyangwe there was a market once in eveiy four days, and the
assemblage generally numbered about three thousand. One fair day the
Arabs, who had been sauntering peaceably among the crowd, suddenly
produced their arms and began firing on the helpless multitude, chiefly
composed of women. Flinging down their wares, the panic-stricken
people fled on all sides, many of them dashing into the river that flowed
close by, or climbing into boats that filled and sank with the numbers
that crowded into them. The market-place was strewn with the dead
and dying, and with the confused heaps of merchandise which had been
dropped or thrown down in the flight, while the murderous scoundrels
continued firiiig so long as they could see a victim to aim at.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Livingstone believed that five hundred lives were sacrificed in this
unprovoked massacre. The object was to "strike terror" into the
hearts of the inhabitants, and show them the irresistible power of the
gun. The result was that the country became too hot to hold tl^e niur
derers.

Having rested at Bambarre until November, Livingstone resolved to
go west to the Lualaba, and buy a canoe for its exploration. Travelling
was very difficult, as it was now the rainy season ; and the attitude of the
natives became so threatening that after penetrating to within ten miles

MARKET IN MANYUEMA.

of the Lualaba he was compelled to turn back and return to Bambarre.
Towards the end of December he set out with Mohammed's ivory party,
hoping to reach another part of the Lualaba, and thus carry out his origi-
nal scheme. The rou*:e pursued was due north, and was followed for
about a month; but rheumatism and weakness, accompanied by a chol-
eraic complaint, drove him back, and in February, 1870, he went int
winter quarters at Mamohela, a town some distance north of Bambarre,
which the Arabs had made their chief depot. Here he remained several
months, regaining strength, and making preparations for further explor-
ations and discoveries.

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

265-

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In June a third attempt was made to reach Lualaba, which proved even
more disastrous than either of the preceding ones. In the first place
most of his men deserted him, so that he was obliged to start with only
three attendants. The country proved exceedingly difficult from forest
and water; trees fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which,
had to be climbed over; flooded rivers, breast and neck deep,. had to be
crossed ; the mud was awful ; and nothing but villages eight or ten miles
apart, the people of which were far from friendly. For the first time in
his life Livingstone's feet failed him ; instead of healing quietly, as here-
tofore, when torn by hard travel, irritable eating-ulcers fastened on both
feet, and he was barely able to limp back to Mamohela in July.
The ulcers now laid him up. If the foot were put to the ground a.
discharge of bloody ichor followed, and the same discharge happened
every nigiit with considerable pain that prevented sleep. They eat
through everything — muscle, tendon, and bone; and medicines have-
very little effect upon them. Their periodicity would seem to indi-
cate that they are allied to fever. For eighty days Livingstone never
came out of his hut; and even then the ulcers had only begun to
heal.

His journal shows that during the period of his confinement Living-
stone was gathering information from both natives and Arabs as to the
great lake and river system which he had discovered ; speculating with
apparent seriousness upon the possibility of Moses having penetrated to
this region and founded the lost city of Meroe; and observing the habits
of the people. He learned that another large lake, called Chibungo, lay
about twelve days distant west from the Lualaba; and that a large river,
which he called Lualaba West, flows out of it in a north-easterly direc-
tion and empties into the main stream.

To the central Lualaba, or main stream, he gave the name of "Webb's
River;" to the western, "Young's River;" and to Chibungo, " Lake
Lincoln," in honor of our own President Lincoln.

Concerning one whose name was given to a river, Livingstone says:
"Osvvell and Webb were fellow-travellers, and mighty hunters. Too
much engrossed myself with mission-work to hunt, except for the chil-
dren's larder, when going to visit distant tribes, I relished the sight of
fair stand-up fights by my friends with the large denizens of the forest,
and admired the true Nimrod class for their great courage, truthfulness,
and honor."

Under date of August 24th he gives an interesting acco'tnt of the
soko, which he believed to be identical with the gorilla, but which Mr..

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•266

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Waller is probably right in regarding as an entirely new species of chim-
panzee. The narrativ'e is as follows :

Four gorillas or sokes were killed yesterday : an extensive grass-burn-
ing forced them out of their usual haunt, and coming on the plain they
ivere speared. They often go erect, but place the hand on the head as
if to steady the body. When seen thus, the soko is an ungainly bea^.
The most sentimental young lady would not call him a " dear," but a
bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without a particle of the
gentleman in him. Other animals, especially the antelopes, are graceful,
and it is pleasant to see them either at rest or in motion : the natives are
also well made, lithe and comely to behold ; but the soko, if large, would
do well to stand for a picture of the devil.

He takes away my appetite by the disgusting bestiality of appearance.
His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whiskers, and faint apology for
a beard ; the foreground of the great dog-mouth ; the teeth are slightly
human, but the canines show the beast by their large development. The
hands, or rather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of
the feet is yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it
leaves the impression that eating sokos was the first stage by which
they arrived at being cannibals ; they say that the flesh is delicious.

Freaks of a Strange Animal.

The soko is represented by some to be extremely knowing, success-
fully stalking men and women while at their work, kidnapping children
and running up trees with them — he seems to be amused by the sight of
the young native in his arms, but comes down when tempted by a bunch
of bananas, and as he lifts that, drops the child : the young soko in such
a case would cling closely to the armpit of the elder. One man was cut-
ting out honey from a tree, and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared
and caught him, then let him go : another man was hunting, and missed
in his attempt to stab a soko ; it seized the spear and broke it ; then grap-
pled with the man, who called to his companions, " Soko has caught
me ; " the soko bit off the ends of his fingers and escaped unharmed.
Both men are now alive at Bambarre.

The sok J is cunning and has such sharp eyes that no one can stalk
him in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it is always in the
back; when surrounded bj men and nets, he is often speared in the back
loo ; otherwise he is not a very formidable beast ; he is nothing as com-
pared in power of damaging his assailant to a leopard or lion, but is
more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use his canine
teeth, which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come down in

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the forest within a hundred yards of our camp, and would be unknown
but for giving tongue like fox-hounds ; this is their nearest approach to
speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, and seized ; he roared
out, but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if he had done it
in play. A child caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched
and scratched, and let fall.

Never Attacks Women.

The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both paws and
biting them so as to disable them; he then goes up a tree, groans over
his wounds, and some time recovers, while the leopard dies : at other
times both soko and leopard die. The lion kills him at once, and some-
times tears his limbs off, but does not eat him. The soko eats no flesh —
small bananas are his dainties, but no maize. His food consists of wild
fruits which abound. The soko brings forth at times twins. A very large
soko was seen by Mohammed's hunters sitting picking his nails; they
tried to stalk him, but he vanished. Some Manyuema think that their
buried dead rise as sokos, and one was killed with holes in his ears, as if
he had been a man. He is very strong, and fears guns but not spears;
he never catches women.

Sokos collect together and make a drumming noise, some say with
hollow trees, then burst forth into loud yells which are well imitated by
the natives' embryotic music. If a man has no spear, the soko goes
away satisfied, but if wounded he seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers,
and spits them out, slaps the cheek of his victim, and bites without
breaking the skin: he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takes
some leaves and stuffs them into his wound to staunch the blood ; he
does not wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees women do
him no harm, and never molests them; a man without a spear is nearly
safe from him. They beat hollow trees as drums with hands, and then
scream as music to it; when men hear them, they go to the sokos; but
sokos never go to men with hostility. Manyuema say, " Soko is a man,
and nothing bad in him."

They live in communities of about ten, each having his own female;
an intruder from another camp is beaten off with their fists and loud
yells. If one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on the
ground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A male often
carries a child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forest to
another over a grassy space ; he then gives it to the mother.

Later on, one of the Arabs caught a young female soko whose mother
had been killed, and gave it to Livingstone, who gives the following

I ^:

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

1260

amusing account of it: She is eighteen inches high, has fine long black
hair all over, which was pretty, so long as it was kept in order by her
dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have seen,
and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly on the
mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that she does not
tread on the palms of her hands, but on the backs of the second line ot
boucs of the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground, nor
do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion, and
hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is put down
before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she walks upright and
holds up a hand to any one to carry her.

If refused, she turns her face down, and makes grimaces of the most
bitter human weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding a
fourth hand or foot to make the appeal more touching. Grass or leaves
she draws around her to make a nest, and resents anyone meddling with
her property. She is a most friendly little beast, and came up to me at
once, making her chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out
her hand to be shaken. She eats everything, covers herself with a mat
to sleep, and makes a nest of grass or leaves, and wipes her face with a

leaf.

Shocking^ Barbarity.

The arrival of ten men from Ujiji with stores early in 1 871, enabled
Livingstone to penetrate to the Lualaba; but he was unable, after the
most strenuous efforts, to procure a boat to descend the river, and his
men utterly refused to cross over into the country beyond.

While staying on the banks of the Lualaba, which he found to be a
mighty river, at least 3,000 yards broad and always deep, he witnessed a
scene so shocking that he could stand the companionship of the Arabs
no longer, and resolved to return at once to Ujiji. Almost from the day
the Arab hordes entered the country petty outrages on either side had
kept up a chronic state of hostility between them and the natives; and
as their stay was protracted these outrages became gradually more
numerous and more murderous. At the time when the scene referred to
occurred, Livingstone was staying at the headquarters of Dugumbe, who
had a large ivory-hunting party with him.

His people seemed to be on friendly enough terms with the natives;
out one day in July the Arabs in camp became very much incensed on
Larning that Kimburu and several other local chiefs had mixed the blood
of friendship with a slave named Manilla. The result shall be given in
Livingstone's own words:

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270

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

M\i

The reports of guns on the other side of the Lualaba all the morning
tell of the people of Dugunibe murdering those of Kimburu and other?
who mixed blood with Manilla. " Manilla is a slave, and how dares he
to mix blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends with free men
like us?" — This is their complaint. Kimburu gave Manilla three slaves
and he sacked ten villages in token of friendship; he proposed to pive
Dugumbe nine slaves in the same operation, but Dugumbe's people
destroy his villages, and shoot and make his people captives to punish
Manilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they alone
are to be dealt with — " make friends with us, and not with Manilla or
anyone else" — such is what they insist upon.

About 1,500 people came to market, though many villages of those
that usually come from the other side were now in flames, and every now
and then a number of shots were fired on the fugitives.

Paiiic-Strieken Crowd.

It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market I saw Adie
and Manilla, and three of the men who had lately come with Dugumbe.
I was surprised to see these three with their guns, and felt inclined to
reprove them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into the
market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot, I
was walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of the fellows
haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had got thirty
yards out, the discharge of two guns in the middle of the crowd told me
that slaughter had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, and ran.

At the same time that the three opened fire on the mass of people
near the upper end of the market-place volleys were discharged from a
party down near the creek on the panic-stricken women, who dashed at
the canoes. These, some fifty or more, were jammed in the creek, and
the men forgot their paddles in the terror that seized all. The canoes
were not to be got out, for the creek was too small for so many; men
and women, wounded by the balls, poured into them, and leaped and
scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long line of heads in the river
showed that great numbers struck out for an island a full mile off: in
going towards it they had to put the left shoulder to a current of about
two miles an hour; if they had struck away diagonally to the opposite
bank, the current would have aided them, and, though nearly three mile-
off, some would have gained land; as it was, the heads above water
showed the long line of those that would inevitably perish.

Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing.
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creatures threw their arms high, as if appeal. fig to the great Father
above, and sank. One canoe took in as inariv' as it could hold, and all
paddled with hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked up
sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. One man
in a long canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly lost his
head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began, and now
paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning.

By and by all the heads disappeared; some had turned down stream
towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumbe put people into one of the
deserted vessels to save those in the water, and saved twenty-one, but
one woman refused to be taken on board from thinking that she was to
be made a slave of; she preferred the chance of life by swimming to the
lot of a slave : the Bagcnya women are expert in the water, as they are
-accustomed to dive for oysters, and those that went down stream may
have escaped, but the Arabs themselves estimated the loss of life at
between 330 and 400 souls. The shooting-party near the canoes were
so reckless, they killed two of their own people ; and a Banyamwezi fol-
lower, who got into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, went
/down, then came up again, and down to rise no more.
Sliaiuefiil Cruelty and Destruction.

My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumbe protested
against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was thankful afterwards that
I took his advice. Two wretched Moslems asserted "that the firine was
-done by the people of the English;" I asked one of them why he lied
so, and he could utter no excuse : no other falsehood came to his aid as
he stood abashed before me, and so telling him not to tell palpable false-
hoods, I left him gaping.

After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio, who was
the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people there, and fire their
villages. As I write I hear the loud wails on the left bank over those
who are there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the depths of
Lualaba. Oh, let Thy Kingdom come 1 No one will ever know the
exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning ; it gave me the impres-
-sion of being in hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at the fugitives
on land, and plundered them : women were for hours collecting and car-
rying loads of what had been thrown down in terror.

I proposed to Dugumbe to catch the murderers, and hang them up in
the market-place, as our protest against the bloody deeds before the
Manyuema. If, as he and others added, the massacre was committed by
Jilanillo's people, he would have consented ; but it was done by Taga-

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

273

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nioio's people, and others of this party, headed by Dugumbe. This
slaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heard
that women com' „ lo or from market have never been known to be
molested : even when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities, " the
women," say they, " pass among us to market unmolested ;" nor has one
ever been know to be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems
are inferior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people under
H;issani began the supervvickedness of capture and pillage of all indis-
criminately. Dugumbe promised to send over men to order Tagamoio's
men to cease firing and burning the villages ; they remained over among
the ruins, feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day continued
their infamous work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.

The murderous assault on the market people, felt to me like Gehenna,
without the fire and brimstone ; but the heat was oppressive, and the fire-
arms pouring their iron bullets in the fugitives, was not an inapt repre-
sentation of burning in the bottomless pit. The terrible scenes of man's
inhumanity to man brought on a severe headache, which might have been
serious had it not been relieved by a copious discharge of blood ; I was
laid up all yesterday afternoon with the depression the bloodshed made
—it filled me with unspeakable horror.

Off on Foot for Ujiji.
The foregoing description by Livingstone of this bloody conflict will
eanable the reader to understand his eager desire to get away and pursue
his journey.

Collecting his own little retinue, he started on foot for Ujiji three days
later, the Arabs trying to prove their penitence by pressing their goods
upon him, begging him not to hesitate to tell them of anything he wanted.
A little gunpowder was all he would accept. Again attacked by fever, and
"almost every step in pain," he pressed on, past miles of burning villages,
until he came to a party of Manyuema who refused to come near, threw
stones at him and his men, and "tried to kill those who went for water."
On the 8th of August, after a bad night, an attack being every moment
expected, our hero attempted to come to a parley with his enemies, feel-
ing sure that he could soon convince them of his friendly intentions, but
they would not listen to his envoys, and in passing along a narrow path,
'with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand," he came to a spot
where trees had been cut down to obstruct his party whilst they were
speared. Clambering over the barrier, though expecting instant death,
Livingstone was surprised at meeting with no opposition, but as he crept
slowly along, preceded by his men, who really seemed to have behaved

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274

V/ONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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very well, and peered into the dense foliage on either side, a dark
shadow, that of an infuriated savage, here and there intervened between
him and the sun. Every rustle in the leaves might now mean a spear,
any sound might be the signal for a massacre. Presently a large spear
from the right almost grazed Livingstone's back, and stuck into the
ground behind him. He looked round and saw two men from whom it
came in an opening in the forest only ten yards off, but again his foes
disappeared as if by magic.

Within Twelve Inches of Death.

All were now allowed to go on for a few minutes unmolested, but soon
another spear was thiown at Livingstone by an unseen assailant^ missing
him again by about a foot. A red jacket he wore, he tells us, led our
hero to be taken for Mohammed Mogharib, one of the slave-dealers, and
it soon became evident that his men were to be allowed to escape whilst
the attack was concentrated upon him. Ordering his attendants to fire
their guns into the bush — the first time, he it observed, that he had ever
m the course of his long wanderings used weapons in his own defence —
our hero still went calmly on, congratulating himself that no yells or
screams of agony succeeded his volley, till he came to a part of the forest
cleared for cultivation.

Here he noticed a gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an
ant-hill twenty feet high, to which fire had been applied near the roots.
As he came up to it, he heard a crack which told that the destructive ele-
ment had done its work, but he felt no fear till he saw the huge bulk falling
forwards towards himself. He started back, and only just escaped being
crushed. " Three times in one day," he remnrks, "was I delivered from
impending death." His attendants, gathering round him, and taking
this third picservation as a good omen, shouted, "Peace! peace! you will
finish your work in spite of these people, and in spite of everything."

1 ive hours more of "running the gauntlet" ensued, and then the little
vand emerged unscathed on the cleared lands of a group of villages, to
be met by a friendly chief named Muanampanda, who invited them to be
> 5a guests. On learning the meaning of all the firing he had heard,
Muanampanda offered to call his people together and punish those who
had molested the explorer, but, true to his generous character, Living-
stone declared he wished no revenge for an attack made in error, and
with some little difficnlty the chief consented to humor ^hat must have
.•^eemed to him a strange whim.

At Muanampanda's, Livingstone had unmistakable proof of the praC'
tice of cannibalism amongst the Manyuema, who eat their foes killed in

TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES.

275

battle, not from any lack of other animal food, but with a view to inspir-
ing themselves with courage. They are saiti to bury a body which is to
be eaten for two days in a forest, and then to disinter and cook it. We
arc glad to be able to add that they seem rather ashamed of this horrible
practice, and do not like strangers to look at their human meat.

From Muanampanda's Livingstone went on eastwards by very slow
stages, for he was overtaken by a serious return of his old illness, and the
entries in his journal, as on his last trip to Tanganyika, are very short
and unsatisfactory. On the 23d September he writes, " I was sorely
knocked up by this march from Nyangwe back to Ujiji. In the latter
part of it I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain
—the appetite failed, whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the
body. All the traders were returning successful. I alone had failed,
and experienced worry, thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the
end towards which I strained,"

Another Misfortune.
Another week and he chronicles his third arrival on the shores of
Tanganyika, close to the entry into the lake of the river Logumba,
\vh:c!i rises in the Kalogo mountains on the west. " Perhaps," hazards
Livingstone, "this river is the outlet of Tanganyika." "Great noises
as of thunder were heard as far as twelve days off, which were ascribed
to Kalcgo, as if it had subterranean caves into which the water rushed
with great noise ; the country slopes that way," he adds, " but I was too
ill to v^xaniine its source" (that of the Logumba).

On the Qth October the worn-out, almost dying, explorer arrived on
the islet of Kasenge, lauded on the eastern shores of the lake, and on the
23d f:ntered Ujiji, reduced, to use his own words, "to a skeleton."
Warmly welcomed by the Arabs, who had believed him to be dead, and
finding the market full of all kinds of native provisions, he hoped
that proper food and rest would soon restore him, but in the evening his
people came to tell him that the goods he left under the care of a man
named Shereef had been sold at a nominal price, the Arabs adding that
they protested, but the " idiot" wou)d not listen to them,

"This was distressing," exclaims poor Livingstone, thus again cut off
from hope of fresh explorations, " I had made up my mind, if I could
not get people at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but
to wait in beggary was what I never contemplated," The man Shereef
actually came without shame to shake hands with his old master, and on
Livingstone's refusing him that courtesy he assumed an air of displeas-
ure, as if badly treated, observing on leaving, " I am going to pray."

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

In his destitution Livingstone felt, he tells us, as if " he were the man
who went down from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves," but
for him there was no hope of priest, Levite, or good Samaritan. Never
however, was the oft-quoted proverb, " when things are at the wor t
they will mend," more thoroughly verified than in this instance. First
came a generous offer of aid in the form of a stock of valuable ivory
from an Arab named Syed bin Magid, and then the news brought by
Susi of the approach of an " Englishman," who proved to be more of an
American than was supposed.

The fact that Stanley reached Ujiji without the knowledge of Living-
stone and those composing his expedition, shows how difificult it is in
Africa to obtain news of what is transpiring even a short distance away.
In our own country it could be known for hundreds of miles away from
a party of travellers. that they were on the march; starting on one side
of the continent, the other side could be made aware of the fact imme-
diately. From time to time reports could be furnished, and enterprisin-r
newspapers could present cuts showing the various experiences through
which the travellers wfere passing. But Africa is not America. For a
long time Stanley and his men journeyed from Zanzibar towards the
lake on the shores of which, now historic, Livingstone was secluded.
No news went ahead, no messengers told the story, no telegraph flashed
hope to the despairing explorer, and suddenly, unexpectedly, yet with joy
like that of the morning, the great Americ '-ero stood face to face with
the one whom he was seeking.

This is the statement of the fact. In the . )sequent chapter we shall
trace Mr. Stanley's journey, and shall see what befell him on the way.
We shall also learn a little later the wonderful effect produced upon Liv-
ingstone by this timely arrival. It is safe to say that if help had not
come as opportunely as it did, the explorer would have died there upon
the banks of the lake which he had struggled so long and heroically to
reach. He was a broken-down, worn-out man, and needed the strong
support, sympathy and timely help of just such a young, bold, heroic
soul as Stanley was.

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CHAPTER XII.
STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

(jvingstone Traced to Ujiji — Searcli Expedition Organized in England — Alarm and
Sorrow at the News of Livingstone's Death — News Discredited by Sir Roderick
Murchison— Mr. Young Sent Out to Find the Lost Explorer — The Little Steel
Vessel — The Expedition Hears of a White Man— Traces of Livingstone— Natives
Know Livmjistone by His Photograph — Cheering News — Another Search Expe-
<li ion — Money Eagerly Subscribed — Men Selected for the Undertaking — Stanley
Leads the Way — Stanley on the March— Guides, Carriers and Donkeys — Band
Music and Lively Songs — Natives Carrying Heavy Burdens on their Heads —
Perils and Difficulties of the Journey — Qualities Required in an Explorer-
Tangled Brake and Wild Animals— The Ferocious Rhinoceros — Excitements o!
the Chase— A Monster Fleet as a Gazelle — Conflict Between an Elephailt and
Rhinoceros — Mr. Oswald s Narrow Escape — The Hunter Scarred for Life-
Stanley s Misfortunes — Sentence of Flogging on a Deserter — The Donkey WMiip —
Daughter of an Infamous King — Urging Forward the Caravan— Sending Away a
Sick Man — Stanley Frij;htens an Arab Sheik— Across Marshes and Rivers — Half
Buried in a Swamp— Stanley's Graphic Account— Pursuit of a Runaway — The
P'ugitive Captured— Two Dozen Lashes and Put in Irons— The Captor Re-
warded—Coral Beads for a Native's Wife.

yYTE have already seen that in the year 1866 Dr. Livingstone had
IVI remained for a time with a certain Babisa chief, until the native
was restored to health. Musa, and the doctor's other followers,
desetted him and then made for the coast, where they at once spread the
report that Livingstone had been murdered by the sanguinary tribe of
Mazitu.

We know that this tale was false, for we have already tracked the
doctor to Ujiji, but the authorities at Zanzibar, in 1866, had no such evi-
dence. Musa declared supposed facts in a very circumstantial manner,
and Dr. Seward, political resident, forwarded the information to Lord
Stanley, and the rumors thus circumstantially circulated gave rise to the
activity which resulted in the Search Expeditions despatched from Eng-
land; which, however, were rendered abortive by the enterprise of the
i^fw York Herald dind its correspondent, Henry M. Stanley.

The news of Livingstone's murder was received in England with alarm
and sorrow. The story had so many elements of apparent truth in its
composition, that friends and relatives, as well as the less-informed British
public, feared the worst.

But some people, and notably Sir R. Murchison, discredited the news.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

It was, however, suggested that an expedition should be forthwjtli
despatched to find the explorer, but this suggestion was combated as
one which, if carried out, would prove useless and disastrous.

However, after some months had elapsed, Sir Roderick Murchisnn
and his adherents gained their point. A firmer companion of Dr
Living.stone, Mr. Edward D. Young, was appointed leader, as already
stated. From the Cape the little expedition was carried, in June, 1867,
to the mouth of the Zambesi in'jone of Her Majesty's ships, and a small
steel vessel, named the "Search," was successfully launched upon tlu;
waters of the rapid river.

After some adventures, and a visit to a Portuguese settlement, whose
chief gave the members confirmation of Livingstone's death — which, how-
ever. Young did not credit — the "Search" continued, and entered the
Shire River, where they were attacked by the natives, but being at length
recognized as English, were hospitably received.

As the little party continued their route, the inhabitants recognized
the I nglish as old friends. The chief of Mankokwi and others welcomed
the Search Expedition, and though continual delays were thereby neces-
sitated, the value of the friendliness was so great that the time lost was
not considered as also wasted.

The Expedition Hears of a ** White Man.'»

After a while more progress was made, and the cataracts were passed.
Lake Nyassa was at hand, and information which came in from time to
time assured Mr. Young and his companions that they were on the right
trail. No hostile tribe opposed their progress, and the " Search " con-
tinued her venturesome way unmolested.

At length, in the beginning of September, the lake was gained, and it
became now a difficult matter to decide in what direction the course
should be steered. A ".white man" had been reported as having already-
gone in a north-westerly direction, but that was long ago, and Mr.
Young and his men were somewhat undecided.

The appearance of a native, however, gave them hopes; and when the
man confessed a liking for the English because a white man had lately
passed by, and made his village presents, Mr. Young was assured of
success. Questions were put to the man concerning the appearance and
departure of the good Englishman, and enough was extracted to assure
Mr. Young that, so far, he had besn proceeding in the right direction,
and that Livingstone had certainly not been murdered as reported.

Proceeding further. up the lake, the good news was confirmed. The
illustrious traveller had remained in a small village by the water during

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STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

279

the past winter season, and had left an excellent impression upon the na-
tives. They gladly welcomed Young's party, and told the leader in what
direction the Englishman had gone. They described him very fairly,
and even indicated the peak of the doctor's cap, while other portions of
his equipment were also faithfully and graphically recalled by the native
chief.

Doubt could no longer exist in the minds of the members of the
" Search " party that they had found " warm " traces of the great ex-
plorer. Further enquiries resulted in accurate information respecting his
observation of the sun with the sextant — which were illustrated by means
of sticks — by a detail of the number of men, "two or three tens" of
persons, his feet clothed in " skins " (boots) — and his little dog was men-
tioned.

The Explorer Known by His Photograph.

Mr. Young at once continued his course, crossing the lake to Chivola,
where more relics and reminiscenses of the doctor were discovered and
related. The villagers gave many faithful and interesting details of the
" white man's " residence with them, and held his memory in great rev-
erence.

While Mr. Young remained at Chivola he tested the accuracy of the
chief's memory by mixing a photograph of Livingstone, in European
dress, with the pictures of other individuals. The chief at once identi-
fied the doctor, but said his dross was not the same, as of course it was
not. This test was regarded, and with reason, as crucial and successful.
Moreover, a prayer-book, a razor, and other relics were gradually pro-
duced by natives with whom he had exchanged them.

So armed with proof, Young proceeded — found other evidence in one
of the doctor's young attendants, who had been ill and left behind. But
the cold season had passed long ago — no news had been heard of the
great traveller since he had gone south-west. Still Young persisted, and
finally he gained information which entirely upset Musa's ingenious
fabrication, although the doctor was not found.

A native, who was encountered by the lake, gave the valuable intelli-
gence that he had himself seen and assisted the doctor, the great
" M'Sungu," after the desertion of Musa and his faithless companions, of
whom the native knew nothing. The man scorned the idea of Living-
stone having been murdered by the Mazitu tribe, for the " M'Sungu " had
avoided them completely. Musa's tale of death and burial was fully
investigated and proved false when the search party penetrated to the
Babisa country, and interviev/ed the old chief.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

This man was the identical individual whom Livingstone had cured,
and who was, therefore, extremely well-disposed to the new comers. His
tribe were famous traders and travellers, who knew the country well and
widely. From the Chief of Marengas Mr. Young obtained the best
news they had yet received.

The chief informed them that he knew Livingstone quite well, as was
natural he should, seeing the doctor had tended him for so many weeks.
He said that the white man had gone away across the marshes. After
that, Musa and the Johanna men had returned, having deserted Livin".
stone, and were on their way to the coast.

This information, so far, tallied with news already to hand ; but the
chief declared that he had never heard of the death of Livingstone, and
the native was assured that had it occurred he must have heard of it
considering the wandering habits of his men, and their taste for travel-
ling and trading. The chief thought it most improbable that the doctor
had been killed at all in the country, and that he had not perished as
Musa had declared was already evident. Under these circumstances
Mr. Young and his men came to the conclusion that Livingstone was
alive, though unfortunately out of reach; that he had wandered through
territories since infested by a hostile tribe, who had destroyed the
villages.

The Babisa chief warmly dissuaded Young from attempting to follow
the doctor under such circumstances, and accordingly the " Search " ex-
pedition returned to the coast, and to England, with the news that Liv-
ingstone had not been murdered, as stated by Musa, but that he had
wandered away out of reach.

Another Search Fxpedition.

Although the information brought home by Young satisfied for a time
the anxiety of the English people, nothing definite had actually been
heard of the doctor since May, 1869. In 1870, in his address to the
Royal Geographical Society, Sir R. Murchison gave hopes of the doc-
tor's existence. Livingstone had been reported at Ujiji, on Lake Tan-
ganyika, where he was waiting supplies. Sir Samuel Baker hoped to
find him, but this hope had no -actual result, owing to geographica:
difficulties.

Sir Bartle Frere proclaimed a relief expedition. Money was eagerly
subscribed throughout the United Kingdom, and tlie Geographical
Society took the matter in hand for the nation. Lieutenants Dawson and
Henn were selected as the leaders, from a candidates' list of four hundred
volunteers. Mr. Oswald Livingstone went with them, but a powerful

STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

281

rival had already been despatched, and his mission was almost unknown
at first. This great rival was Henry M. Stanley, who had a tour
a raiv:;ed for him in India, with instructions to swoop down on Zanzibar
and " find Livingstone."

Stanley carried out his instructions, and arrived in January, 1871, at
Zanzibar, which he found to be a much more beautiful and fertile island
than he had supposed. He soon introduced himself to Dr. Kirk, and,
without delay, set about making the necessary preparations for his jour-
ney. The great difficulty was to obtain information as to the amount of

STANLEY ON THE MARCH.

food, or rather the articles for purchasing it, which would be required for
tlij hundred men he proposed enlisting in his service.

He had engaged at Jerusalem a Christian Arab boy named Selim, who
was to act as his interpreter, and he had also on the voyage attached to
th'j expedition two mates of merchantmen, Farquhar and Shaw, who
were very useful in constructing tents and arranging two boats and the
pack-saddles and packages for the journey, but who proved in other re-
spects very poor travellers. He also secured the services of that now
well-known hero, Bombay, captain of Speke's faithfuls, and five of his
other followers, Uledi, Grant's valet, and the blue-headed Mabruki, who
had in the mjantims lost one of his hands, but, notwithstanding, was

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WONPFKS 0\- \\\K IRoriLS.

likrly to ptoxi^ n"*(Mnl. 1 lu'\ uoro tho only tiMM.iiii'^ o\ the l>rtn«l to Iio
foiMvi, \hc ix st h.U'injr ,li( ,| or ^onr i^lsi^whi i«\ Ilu so six still «r(ain< d
their medals for assistinjj in iho «limovevy of the so\me of the Nile.

srtnilo.i <^>H<nt( Heutly 1o St«»rt.

Vhr ho.U'^. •^n^^^f which w.is eapablt^ ofrjMiAin^j l>vetity people niu!
the oih.M<ii\. wcvv ^itiipprtl of their ]>ln!il<'j. the tin^hors n\u\ thwnvls niiU
heityv; V.I n 1(^1. In'^tiM.l oi (he p1;<nKni^ it w .i'? propi>se«l to rover (Juiu
with «1o\iMe r.un.is sKin. well t.nieil 1 h< \- an«Hh«' rest iti the haj^^ai^e
\\'<^re e;ime«l in lond-^. noni^ <^\e<Nnhne si\tv-eis.',ht ponnils in wejiju
Two hvMses nn«l tw» nt\ -s<'\en «lonKe\ s were pnix h;tse«l. atul n sin.<ll ,.»ii.
whiKMlie ti.ivellei ha«i hronpht w ith him a wateh-»l<^g. whieh h<- hep, ,1
wonUi ^(lard his ic\\\ tVotn prowln>^ thieves. ,\n anipU^ s\ipply of he;\(ls.
elotli. an«1 >vire was also lai«l in. with tea, snj;ar, riee, aiul itieilii ine '\\\
UvMiiluv antl his faitlihils were added (^i^ht*^ n nvne free www, who wtic
all well armed, and when tn\ist(Med ai>peare»l an exeeedini^ly tnte-looKin^v
bod\- of s«>ldiers. Vhe-^e were to aet a"^ iv'^eoit to the /a,!;.^?^", or eairiets
On t]ie 4th >M l\^bni.n\, iS'i. the e\peditii>n was read\ , and on the
<;th emharkvtl in fem dhows, whieh eonxeycd it aert>ss to Hai^amox e on
the mainland. Here it was detained tne w<mMvS while il-^ pei'^everin;.;
lea»ier was eomhatine the ros^ueries of /\li Hon Salim and another Ar.iiv
Hadji Palloo. wh«> had imdertalveti to secnre oni^ hundivd and leii\
eatri<Ms. Vlie p-.v ka^es wt^e rearran^cil, the tetUs iniprovcvl, and other
nee«^<^sar\- arvanjiement-^ made.

He tonnvl hen -i earavan whieli had been despatehed hy the Ihitisli
C»">!"(«>iil a hunth-Cil days before to the nMief of Or. l,i\ inf;stont, Imu
whieli.its leader makins;; as an evense that he was nnahlc to oht;»in .»
fresh nmiilvr \M"eaMieis. hatl Inthetto remained inaettxe.

Hatxl Musie a\u\ \Avo\y Song-s,
The elimato o\ l^aL^amovo is lai iiiponor tv> that of Zanr;b,\r. Iti it'^
rtciphborhood a V^vneli je-^uit mission has het^i Uyy so\wc time e^l.ih
lishod, w ith fen priests and as Tiian\- sisters, who ha\«^ hccu \vr\ siiee(-y''-
fiil in cdueatinj:^ two hundred b<">ys and ^irls. Vhe priests siunptiioii-'h
entertained Mr. Stanlev- with eveellent eham]%a};ne and el.net. wlulo
some of their ]'>ii]"»ils, amv">nv:^ whom they had formed a brass b.iiul.
Amused them w ith instrumental ninsie and 1-^-eneh soni;s.

He dixided his e\j>ediliiMi into I'lve eaia\ans, the tirst e>f uhieh he
started off on the iSih oi February, althoneh it was not till M.neh -'ist
that he with the lars^-est was able to con^menee his journey wcstw.iiil.
Altocff^ther the evpedition numbere<i on the day of de|\\rtiire. besi>ies
the commander and his two w liite attendants, tw entv-lhrec soldiers, lour

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

chiefs, one hundred and fifty-three carriero, and four supernumeraries.
Every possible care had been bestowed on the outfit, and in nothing that
it needed was it stinted. Bombay proved to be honest and trustworthy,
v'hile Fcrajji and Mabruki turned out true men and staunch, the latter, on
one occasion, finding a difficulty in dragging the cart, having brought it
along on his head rather than abandon iti The facility with which the
natives carry heavy loads on their heads is described by Stanley. On
one occasion he was waiting for Shaw, who was leading a caravan
with supplies. Food being scarce in the camp, and Shaw not arriving,
he sent a message to him, requiring him to come on with all the speed
he could ; but time passed, and the caravan arrived not. Stanley then
set out to meet it, and thus describes Shaw's order of march :-:— " Stout,
burley Chowereh carried the cart on his head, having found thatcarrying
it was easier than drawing it. The sight was such a damper to my
regard for it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the
reeds and there left. The central figure was Shaw himself, riding at a
;4ait which rendered it doubtful whether he or his animal felt most sleepy.
Upon expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so long waiting
when there wasr narch on hand, he said he had done the best he could,
but as I had seen the solemn pace at which he rode, I felt dubious about
his best endeavors, and requested him, if he could not mend his pace, to
dismount and permit the donkey to be loaded for the march."

Perils and Difficulties.

Thus delays, obstacles and risks are sure to meet one who undertakes
a land journey in intertropical Africa. There is no longer, as in the
desert, the peril of death from thirst or starvation ; for the country
abounds in game, and the course does not throughout lie through inter-
minable swamp, as in the river navigation. But from, the very beginning
the explorer is beset with hindrances and annoyances small and great.
An army of porters must be got together, drilled and fed. Like other
Africans, they are children of impulse, credulous, suspicious, often lying,
cowardly and treacherous. On the slightest provocation they are seized
with panic, and desert ; or they take advantage of relaxed discipline.

The leader must be possessed of inexhaustible good-humor, and at the
same time be able to prove, when occasion requires, that he is a stern
master. A dove-like demeanor will hardly suit the African explorer; he
must be wise as a serpent and watchful as a hawk. When at length a
start is made, difficulties accumulate at every step. In a country' where
rain falls for ten or eleven months in the year, under a vertical sun, the
growth of vegetation is amazing.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

In the dry season the grass and shrubs are burned far and wide; but
after a few weeks' rain the new plant-life starts up with incredible quick-
ness. The country is covered with an impenetrable jungle of grass,
reeds, and bamboos. A thick undergrowth starts up below the shade of
the forest trees ; the great stems of the pandanus, the banana, and the
baobab are covered to their tops with a feathery growth of parasitic ferns
and orchids, and festooned with the tough branches of the wild vine and
the liana, and other twining and creeping plants.

The rivers are at their highest mark, and the marshes are profound
and impassable. The native villages are almost smothered under the
dark luxuriance of plant-life, and lions and other beasts of prey can creep
up unseen to the very doors of the huts. The whole country, in short,
becomes a tangled brake, with only here and there an open space, or a
rough track marking where the heavy body of an elephant, a rhinoceros,
or a buffalo has crushed a way through the high grass. The fact that
thfrre is " a lion in the way " — much more an elephant— is an incentive
to the traveller to push on.

A Danererous Beast.

The rhinoceros especially is a monster that no traveller would wish to
meet, and renders exploration in some parts of Africa perilous in the
extreme. Graphic accounts of the deadly exploits of this ferocious
brute are given by all who have penetrated far into the wilds of the Dark
Continent.

The largest of the rhinoceros family is he of Africa, the square-nosed
white rhinoceros. A full-grown brute of his species will measure
eighteen feet in length (Mr. Galton shot one eighteen feet six inches);
the circumference of its broad back and low-hanging belly almost as
much ; while it is so low on its legs that a tall man a-tiptoe could see across
its back. Attached to its blunt nose — not to the bone, but merely set in
the skin — is a horn more or less curved, hard as steel, sharp, and more
than a yard long; and immediately behind this is a little horn, equally
sharpy, and shaped like a handleless extinguisher. Its eyes are marvel
ously little — so little, indeed, that at a short distance they are scarcely tc
be seen; at the same time, however, it should be borne in mind that the
rhinoceros is of nocturna^ habits; and, as it is with all such animals, by "
daylight the eyes are seldom seen to full advantage.

Its ears are long, pointed, and tipped with a few bristles ; these and a
scrubby tassel at the extrem^ of its tail comprise the whole of its hirsute
appendages. His sense of hearing and smell are wonderfully acute.
Andersson says, " I have had ftequent opportunities of testing both these

STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

287

qualities. Even when feeding, lying down, or obeying any passing
demand of nature, he will listen with a deep and continued attention
until the noise that has attracted his attention ceases. He ' winds ' an
eneniy from a very great distance; but if one be to leeward of him it is
not difficult to approach within a few paces."

A Monster Fleet as a Gazelle.

Hunters universally agree as to the wonderful swiftness of this ponder-
ous brute. Says Gordon Gumming, "A horse and rider can rarely
manage to overtake it;" aqd Captain Harris echoes, "From its clumsy
appearance one would never suppose it capable of such lightning-like
movements." " He is not often pursued on horseback," says Andersson,
who, without doubt, knows more of the animal than any other European,
"and chiefly because his speed and endurance are such that it is very
difficult to come up with and follow him, to say nothing of the danger
attendant on such a course. Many a hunter, indeed, has thereby en-
dangered his life."

Should the lion and rhinoceros meet, the former allows the latter a
wide berth, and the huge elephant yields to him the path rather than
risk a battle. Occasionally, however, the peaceful giant of the forest will
lose all patience with his quarrelsome neighbor, and screw up his cour-
age " to have it out " with him. But the extra strength of the elephant
does not sufficiently compensate for his cumbrous gait, and the swift and
sudden movement of keitloa gives him an immense advantage. A cele-
brated African sportsman once witnessed such a battle at Omanbonde,
but in this instance the impetuous rage of the rhinoceros proved his
downfall ; for, having driven his terrible horn up to the hilt into the car-
cass of the elephant, he was unable to extricate it, and the latter, falling
dead of his wound, crushed out the life of his assailant in his descent.
Mr. Andersson once witnessed a fight between a gigantic bull elephant
and a black rhinoceros, and in the end the former turned tail and ran for
his life.

That he will not allow his passion for war to be hampered ty the ties
of blood and kindred, is proved by the same gentleman. *' One night,
while at the skarm " (a circular wall, built of rough stone, loosely piled
on each other), "I saw four of these huge beasts engage each other at
the same time ; and so furious was the strife, and their gruntings so hor-
rible, that it caused the greatest consternation among my party, who
were encamped a little way off. I succeeded after awhile in killing two
of them, one of which was actually unfit for food, from wounds received
on previous occasions, and probably under similar circumstances."

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'^u.

rhinoceros's best friend, and the rhinoceros hunter's most tiresome
ene.Tiy, is a little bird, vulgarly known as the rhinoceros bird. It con-
stantly attends on the huge beast, feeding on the ticks that infest its hide,
the bird's long claws and elastic tail enabling it to hold fast to whatever
portion of the animal it fancies. If it rendered the rhinoceros no further
service than ridding him of these biting pests, it would deserve his grati-
tude ; but, in addition, it does him the favor of warning him of the ap-
proach of the hunter. With its ears as busy as its beak, the little senti-
nel detects danger afar off, and at once shoots up into the air, uttering a
sharp and peculiar note, which the rhinoceros is not slow to understand
and take advantage of; he doesn't wait to make inquiry, but makes off
at once. Gumming asserts that when the rhinoceros is asleep, and the
bird fails to wake him with its voice, it will peck the inside of his ears,
and otherwise exert itself to rouse its thick-headed friend.

As a rule, the rhinoceros will shun man's presence, and do its best to
escape as soon as the hnnter approaches. Like all other rules, however,
this one is not without exception. In proof of this, Mr. Oswell relates an
adventure in which he was the hunted as well the hunter, barely escaping
with his life. One day, while returning to camp on foot, he saw, at a
short distance off, two rhinoceroses of the terrible keitloa species ap-
proaching him as they grazed. He says : " I immediately crouched, and
quietly awaited their arrival ; but though they soon came within range,
from their constantly facing me I was unable to fire, well knowing the
usel'-isness of a shot at the head. In a short time they had approached,
but on account of the exposed nature of the ground I could neither
retreat nor advance, and my situation became highly critical.

Scarred for Life.

" I was afraid to fire, for even had I succeeded in killing one, the other
would in all likelihood have run over and trampled me to death. In this
dilemma it suddenly occurred to me that on account of their bad sight I
might possibly save myself by endeavoring to run past them. No time
was to be lost, and accordingly, just as the leading animal almost touched
me, I stood up and dashed past it. The brute, however, was too quick
for me, and before I had made many good paces I heard a violent snort-
ing at my heels, and had only time to fire my gun at random at his head
when I felt myself impaled on his horn.

" The shock stunned me completely. The first return to consciousness
was, I recollect, finding myself seated on one of my ponies, and a Caffre
leading it. I had an indistinct notion of having been hunting, and on
observing the man I asked quickly why he was not following the track

STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

289

other

n this

ight I

isness
Caffre
id on
track

of the animal, when he mumbled something to the effect that it was
gone. By accident I touched my right hip with my hand, and on with-
drawing it was astounded to find it clotted with blood ; yet my senses
were still so confused, and the side so benumbed, that I actually kept
feeling and pressing the wound with my fingers. While trying to
account for my strange position, I observed some of my men coming
>ovvard me with a cart, and on asking them what they were about, they
cried out that they had come to fetch my body, having been told that I
had been killed by some animal. The truth now for the first time broke
upon me, and I was quickly made aware of my ci ippled condition. The
wound I had received was of a very serious character, and although it
ultimately healed, it left scars behind which will no doubt remain till the
day of my death."

This was not the only opportunity Mr. Oswell had of testing the un-
flinching courage occasionally exhibited by the rhinoceros. Once as,
mounted on a first-rate horse, he was returning from an elephant hunt,
he saw in the distance a magnificent white rhinoceros, bearing a horn of
unusual size. Without a thought as to the danger of the proceeding, he
spurred his steed, and was speedily neck and neck with his game.
Instantly the deadly gun was leveled, and a bullet lodged in the thick-
skinned carcase. Not fatally, however ; and, worse than all, instead of
"bolting," as is the animal's wont when wounded, it just stood stock-still
for a moment, eyeing the hunter with its vengeful little eyes, and then
deliberately stalking toward him, made a sudden rush at the refractory
steed, and thrust its horn completely through its body, so that the point
of the tremendous weapon struck the rider's leg through the saddle-flap.
at the other side. The horse was of course killed on the spot, but
the rider was so little injured that he immediately followed and slew the:
rhinoceros.

A Powerful Foe.

Innumerable instances of dangerous encounters with wild' animal's
might be mentioned, to show the perils that constantly beset the path of
Stanley. Kingston relates an adventure of this description.

" Once more," he says, " the trumpeting burst forth, the sounds echo-
ing through the forest. A minute afterwards I heard the crashing of
boughs and brushwood some way off. I guessed, as I listened, that the
animal was coming towards where I lay. The sounds increased in loud-
ness. Should it discover me it would probably revenge itself by crushing
me to death, or tossing me in the air with its trunk. I hadimy rifle ready
to fire. There was a chance that I might kill it oc make it turn aside.

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The ground where I lay sloped gradually downwards to a more open
spot. I expected the next instant that the elephant would appear. It did
so, but further off than I thought it would, and I thus began to hope that
I should escape its notice. It was moving slowly, though trumpeting
with pain and rage.

• " The instant I caught sight of it another huge creature rushed out oi
the thicket on the opposite side of the glade. It was a huge bull
rhinoceros with a couple of sharp-pointed horns, one behind the other.

"The elephant on seeing it stopped still, as if wishing to avoid a con-
test with so powcrtul an antagonist, I fully expected to witness a long
and terrible figlit, and feared that, in the struggle, the animals might
move towards where I lay and crush me. That the elephant was wounded
I could sec by the blood streaming down its neck. This probably made
it less inclined to engage in a battle with the rhinoceros. Instead of
advancing, it stood whisking its trunk about and trumpeting. The
rhinoceros, on the contrary, after regarding it for a moment, rushed fear-
lessly forward and drove its sharp-pointed horns into its body while it in
vain attempted to defend itself with its trunk.

"The two creatures were now locked together in a way which made it
seem impossible for them to separate, unless the horns of the rhinoceros
were broken off. Never did I witness a more furious fight. The ele-
phant attempted to throw itself down on the head of its antagonist, and
thereby only drove the horns deeper into its own body. So interested
was I, that I forgot the pain I was suffering, while I could hear no other
sor.nds than those produced by the two huge combatants. While I was
watching them, I felt a hand on my shoulder^ and saw one of our party
standing over me.

" ' I am sorry you have met with this accident ! ' he exclaimed. ' The
sooner you get away from this the better. There is a safer spot a little
higher up the bank. We will cari"y you there.'

" I willingly consenting, my friends did as they proposed, as from
thence I could watch the fight with greater security. They, having
placed me in safety, hurried towards the combatants, hoping to kill both
of them before they separated.

'< The Huge Creature Fell Over.**

'* The elephant, already wounded, appeared likely to succumb without
our further interference. There was indeed little chance of its attempting
to defend itself against them. One of the men sprang forward until he
got close up to the animals, and firing he sent a bullet right through the
elephant's lieart. The huge creature fell over, pressing the rhinoceros

STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

291

to the ground. As the great beast was now pinned fast and unable to
escape, it was not difficult to dispatch him, and this was quickly done."

We must return from these conflicts with African wild animals to
follow the thrilling adventures of Mr. Stanley.

The Kinganni river was reached by a bridge rapidly formed with
American axes, the donkeys refusing to pass through the water. The
country due west of Bagamoyo was found to be covered with towns and
tillages which were previously unknown. Soon after starting, Omar,
the watch-dog, was missing, when Mabruki, hastening back, found him
at the previous halting-place. One of the caravans at the same place was

THE RHINOCEROS DROVE ITS HORNS INTO ITS BODY

actained by the sickness of three of the carriers, whose place it was neces-
sary to supply.

Stanley soon had to experience the invariable troubles of African
tiavellers. His two horses died within a few hours of each other, both
however, from disease of long standing, and not from the climate. Few
men were better able to deal with the rogueries of the petty chiefs he
met with than Mr. Stinley. He had always a ready answer, and invari-
ably managed to catch them in their own traps, while the " great master,"
as he was called, managed to keep his subordinates in pretty good
order.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

One of his carriers, Khamisi, under Shaw's command, having ab-
sconded, Uledi and Ferajji found him, having fallen into the hands of
9ome plundering Washensi, who were about to kill him. A court of
eight soldiers and eight carriers having been convened, condemned him
to be flogged with the "great master's " donkey-whip. As Shaw ought
to have kept a better look out, he was ordered to give him one blow and
the carriers and soldiers,the remainder. This being done, the man was
pardoned.

Moving on, the expedition passed Simbamwenni, the fortifications of
which are equal to any met with in Persia! The acea of the town is
about half a square mile, while four towers of stone guard each corner.
There are four gates, one in each wall, >vhich are closed with solid square
doors of African teak, and carved with complicated devices. It is ruled
by the daughter of the infamous Kisalungo, notorious as a robber and
kidnapper, another Theodore on a small scale. Before long Stanley was
attacked with fever, which greatly prostrated his strength, though he
quickly recovered by taking strong doses of quinine.

The most painful event which bccurred was the flight of Bunda Selim,
who had been punished for pilfering rations. The men sent after him
were seized and imprisoned by the Sultana of Simbamwenni, and, though
ultimately liberated by the interference of an Arab sheikh, nothing could
be found of the missing cook. Shaw also fell ill, and left the task of urg-
ing on the floundering caravan through marshes and rivers to his su-
perior. Several of the others followed his example, and even Bombay
complained of pains and became unserviceable.

Misconduct of Atten<lant8.

The report from Farquhar's caravan was most unsatisfactory, he, as far
as Stanley could make out, having lost all his donkeys. The unhappy
man, indeed, he found on overtaking him, was sufifering'from dropsy.
He had also given to the porters and soldiers no small amount of the
contents of the bales committed to his charge, as payment for the services
he had demanded of them, and in purchasing expensive luxuries. As he
could not walk and was worse than useless, Stanley was obliged to send
the sick man, under the charge of Mabruki, thirty miles away to the
village of Mpwapwa, to the chief of which place he promised an ample
I "iward if he would take care of him.

Worse than all, the wretched Shaw, afler a dispute, during the night
fired into Stanley's tent, too evidently with the intention of killing him.
He found the intended murderer pretending to be asleep, with a gun by
his side yet warm. Unable to deny that he had fired, he declared that in

STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RTSCUE.

2f3

h\9 dreams he had seen a thief pass his door; and then asked what was
the matter. "Oh, nothing," answered Stanley; "but I would advise you
in future, in order to avoid all suspicion, not to fire into my tent, or at
least, so near me. I might get hurt, in which case ugly reports would
get about, and this, perhaps, would be disagreeable, as you are probabn
aware. Goodnight!"

On reaching Mpwapwa the chief Lencolo positively refused to takt
charge of the white man unless an interpreter was left with him, and
Jako, who was the only one of the party besides Bombay and Selim who
could sptak English, was ordered to remain in that capacity.

A Sheikh Badly Frigfhtened.

1 he expedition was now about to enter Ugogo. During the passage
of ihe intervening desert, five out of the nine donkeys died, the cart
having some time before been left behind.

The expedition was now joined by several Arab caravans, so that the
number of the party amounted to about four hundred souls, strong in
f;uns, flags, horns sounding, drums, and noise. This host was to be led
by Stanley and sheikh Hamed through the dreaded Ugogo.

In May they were at Mvumi, paying heavy tribute to the sultan.
Nothing seemed to satisfy him, Stanley suggested tliat as he had twenty
VVazunga armed with Winchester repeating rifles, he might make the
sultan pay tribute to him. The sheikh entreated that he would act
peaceably, urging that angry words might induce the sultan to demand
double the tribute.

We quote Stanley's own account of some of his experiences in this
part of his journey:

The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if they were rooted to
it. As fast as one was flogged from his stubborn position, prone to the
depths fell another, giving me a Sisyphean labor, which was maddening
under pelting rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi, who
could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the storm and mire. Two
hours of such a task enabled me to drag my caravan over a savannah
one mile and a half broad ; and barely had I finished congratulating my-
self over my success before I was halted by a deep ditch, which, filled
with rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had become a consider-
able stream, breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the Makata. Donkeys had
to be unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded again on the other
bank-^an operation which consumed a full hour.

Presently, after straggling through a. wood clump, barring our prog-
ress was another St earn, swollen into a river. The bridge being swept

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WONDEpS OF Tlin TROPICSw

away, \vc were oblijjcd to swim ami float our lx»^i»age over, which de-
la\ccl us two hours more. Leaving this secontl river-banlc, wc splashed,
watlcd, occasionally half-swimmipg, and reeled through mire, water-
dripping grass and matama stalks, along the left bank of the Ma'<ata
proper, until farther progress was effectually preventnl for that day by a
^Icep bend of the river, which we would beoI)ligetl to cro.'is the next tla\-.

Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, I lie
march occupied ten hours.

Half tlead with fatigue, I yet couKI feel thankful that it was not ac-
companied by fever, which it .seemetl a miracle to avoid ; for if ever a dis-
trict was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost of
those afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods envelojx^d in
opaque mist, of the inundated country with lengthy swathes of tiger-
grass laid low by the turbid flood, of mountls of decaying trees and
canes, <if the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough to engentler
the mukunguru ! The well-used khambi, and the heaps of fllth sur-
rovmding it, were enough to create a cholera!

Cr<MSMini; a Swollen Slronni.

The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but forty
feet, in the Makisa season assumes the breadth, depth, and force of am
important river. Should it hapjx^n to be ai^ unusually rainy season, it
inundates the great plain which stretches on either side, and converts it
into a great lake.

So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady
bridge, half buried in the water, imix,nil the safety of the projxMty, that
its transfer froni bank to bank occupied fully five hours. No sooner had
wc landed every article on the other side, undamaged by the water, than
the rain ix>ured down in torrents that drenched them all, as if they had
been dragged through the river. To proceed through the swamp which
an lu>ur*s rain bad formed was utterly out of the question. We were
accordingly compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its
quota of annoyance.

One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo, named Kingaru,
improved an opportunity to desert with another man's kit. My two
detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and Sarmean, were immediately de-
sp itched in pursuit, both being armed with American breech-loaders.
The\' went about their task with an adroitness and celerity which augured
well for their success. In an hour they returned with the runaway, having
found him hidden in the hoi\,se of a chief called Kigondo, who lived
^out a mile from tJie eastern bank of the rivcr» and who had accoai-

29''i

STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE.

panieil Uledi and Sarmean to receive his reward, and render an account
oi the incident.

Ki jondo said, when he had been seated, " I saw this man carrying a
bundle, and running hard, by which 1 knew that he was deserting you.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

We (my wife and I) were sitting in our little watch-hut, watching our
corn ; and, as the road runs close by, this man was obliged to come close
to us. We called to him when he was near, saying, * Master, where are
you going so fast? Are you deserting the Musungu, for we know you
belong to him, since you bought from us yesterday two doti worth of
meat ?'

" ' Yes,' said he, ' I am running away ; I want to get to Simbamwcnni.
If you will take me there, I will give you a doti.'

" We said to him then, ' Come into our house, and we will talk it over
quietly.' When he was in our house in an inner room, we locked him
up, and went out again to the watch ; but leaving word with the women
to look out for him. We knew thai, if vou wanted him, you would send
askari (soldiers) after him.

" We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men armed with short
guns, and having no loads, coming along the road, looking now and then
on the ground, as if they were looking at footmarks. We. knew them to
be the men we were expecting ; so we hailed them, and said, ' Masters,
V hat are ye looking for ?'

" They said, * We are looking for a man who has deserted our master.
Here are his footsteps. If you have been long in your hut you must
have seen him. Can you tell us where he is?' We said, ' Yes ; he is in
our house. If you will come with us, we will give him up to you ; but
your master must give us something for catching him.' "

As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained
nothing further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of their
prisoner, and bring him and his captors to my camp on the western bank
of the Makata. Kingaru received two dozen lashes, and was chained ;
his captor a doti, besides five khcte of read coral beads for his wife.

CHAPTER XIII.
STANLEY'S HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS.

Stanley's Marvellous Courage and Enterprise — Abundance of Supplies — Perils Sur
rounding the Expedition— Paying Tribute to Chiefs— Dense Jungles and Thickets
of Thorns— A Country Teeming with Noble Game—A Merry Bugler and His
Horn — Stanley Invited to the House of a Sheik- Three Caravans Arrive in
Safety— Letters to Livingstone Long Delayed — Illness of Stani j — The Explorer
Senseless for Two Weeks— Shaw Agam Breaks Down— Chief Mirambo Disputes
the March of the Expedition— Stanley Joins the Arab Forces — Deadly Encounter
with Mirambo— Stanley's Graphic Account of the Conflict — Mirambo Gets His
Foe into Antbush— Disastrous Defeat of the Arab Forces— Stanleys Hasty
Flight— Setting off Hurridly at Midnight — Urging Forward the Donkeys — Safe at
Last— Arab Boy Faithful to His American Master — News of Farquhar's Death—
Burning a Village— Mirambo Retreats— Stanley's Little Slave Boy— How the
Name Kalulu was Obtained — Shaw is Sent Back — Narrow Escape From a Croco
dile— Capture of an Immense Reptile — A Traveler's Startling Adventure —
Mutiny in Stanlev's Camp — Securing the Friendship of a Powerful Chief— Home
of the Lion and the Leopard— Stanley in Pursuit of Adventure— Encounter with
a Wild African Boar— Kalulu Bridly Frightened— Crossing a Perilous River-
Exciting News of a White Man — Stanley Longs for a Horse — Expedition in High
Spirits — More Deniand for Tribute— A Bivouac in Silence — Passing Through an
African Village- Great Alarm Among the Natives— Arrival at Last— March of
Two Hundred and Thirty six Days.

KV O one can doubt that any man with less nerve and courage than
I / Stanley would have turned back. Sitting in our quiet American
homes, with all the evidences of civilization, peace and comfort
around us, it is impossible to fully realize the situation of the
great explorer on this expedition, which had for its object the recovery
of an explorer equally famous with himself. One thing was in Stanley's
favor : all that money could afiford was freely furnished and his supplies
were ample at the outset. Of course these supplies of clothing and
other things necessary for exchange with the African tribes grew less
as he advanced, but at this point of his journey he was still amply
furnished.

Yet it must be remembered that Stanley was in a country which was
very unhealthful, where there were many hostile tribes, where wars were*
constantly raging, where Arabs were in pursuit of their prey, and it was
necessary for him to exercise all his ingenuity and show all his courage
in overcoming difficulties and pushing forward in his great undertaking.

(297)

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

He wa5; constantly compelled to pay tribute to the chiefs of the various
districts through which he passed, and if he had not sometimes reso-
lutely refused what was demanded, his expedition would have been com-
pletely plundered before he was half .way to Ujiji. At the point when."
we left him in the last chapter we hear of the sane old story of tribulc
Jemanded. This was granted to preserve peace, and shaking the dust
of Mvumi off their feet, the party proceeded westward. The country
ivas one vast field of grain, and thickly populated. Between that plact
and the next sultan's district twenty-five villages were counted. When
ever they halted large groups of people assembled and greeted with
peals of laughter the dress and manner of the white man, and more than
once had to be kept at a distance by Stanley's rifle or pistols, sometimes
his thick whip coming into play.

After this a dense jungle was entered, the path serpentining in and out
of it ; again open tracts of grass bleached white were passed : now it
led through thickets of gums and thorns, producing an odor as rank as
a stable ; now through clumps of wide-spn:ading mimosa and colonics ol
baobab-trees across a country teeming with noble game, which, though
frequently seen, were yet as safe from their rifles as if they had been on the
Indian Ocean. But the road they were on admitted of no delay; water
had been left behind at noon ; until noon the next day not a drop was to
be obtained, and unless they marched fast and long, raging thirst would
demoralize everybody.

** The Br'irler Blew His Horn."

After this wearisome journey Stanley was again attacked by fever,
which it required a whole day's halt and fifty grains of quinine to cure.
As may be supposed, they were thankful when Ugogo was passed, and
they entered Unyanyembe. As the caravan resumed its march after halt-
ing at noon, the Wanyamuezi cheered, shouted, and sang, the soldiers
and porters shouting in return, and the bugler blew his horn much more
merrily than he had been wont to do in Ugogo.

A large district, however, presented the sad spectacle of numerous
villages burnt down, cattle carried off, and the grain-fields overf'un with
jungle and rank weeds — too common a sight in that part of the country.
The expedition at length entered Kivihara, the capital of the province
ruled over by the aged Sultan Mkaswa, who received Stanley in a friendly
jvay. The Sheikh Said Ben Salim invited him to take up his quarters in
liis tenibc, or house, a comfortable-looking place for the centre of Africa.
Here his goods were stored, and his carriers paid off. His three other
caravans had arrived safely. One had had a slight skirmish, a second

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STANLeVS HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS.

299

having shot a thief, and the third having lost a bale when attacked by
robbers.

This is the place, to the southward of Victoria Nyanza, where Captains
Burton, Spcke, and Grant remained for a considerable time at different
periods during their expeditions. Soon after, the Livingstone caravan
arrived, and the goods were stored with those of Stanley, the men being
quartered with his. . The chief of the caravan brought Stanley a package
of letters directed to Dr. Livingstone at Ujiji, when, to his surprise, he
found that it was marked outside: "November 1st, 1871." What a
cruel delay was this !

Tlio Explorer Senseless.

After his long journey, Stanley was now laid completely prostrate,
and for two weeks was perfectly senseless. The unhappy Shaw was also
again taken ill. The fever rapidly destroyed both his memory and his
reason. Sclim, who had hitherto faithfully watched over his master and
treated him according to the written directions he had received, was also
prostrated, and in a state of delirium for four days. Late in July, how-
ever, air had again recovered, and fifty carriers were ready to start with
bales, beads, and wire for Ujiji. Three days after this, Shaw again broke
down, asserting that he was dying, and he had to be carried on the
backs of his men till brought into his leader's hut.

The road, however, ahead was closed by the chief Miranibo, who
declared that no Arab caravan should pass that way. The Arabs, there-
fore, l)ad resolved to attack him, and mustered an army of unwards of
two thousand men. Stanley, with his followers, determined to join them,
to assist in bringing the war to a speedy conciusion. The palace was
soon surrounded, and, though the party was received with a volley, the
fire of the defenders was soon silenced. They took to flight, and the
village was entered. Notwithstanding the heavy fire which had been
kept on it, twenty dead bodies only were found. Other villages were
attacked and burned.

A more serious affair occurred soon afterwards. When Stanley was
again attacked with fever, a number of his men, notwithstanding his
orders to the contrary, joined the Arabs in an attack on a more important
place, commanded by Mn-ambo himself. The result was that, though
the place was taken, the Arabs fell into an ambush, laid by Mirambo,
and were completely defeated, many of them, including some of Stanlej's
soldiers, being killed. Mirambo, following up his successes, pursued the
Arabs, and Stanley had to mount his donkey, Shaw being lifted on his,
and to fly at midnight for their lives. His soldiers ran as fast as their

300

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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legs could carry them, the only one of his followers who remained at hia
master's side being young Selim.

Stanley's Acconnt of the Battle.

Stanley's description of this sanguinary affair is as follows : A detach-
ment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong, scoured the surroundint;
country, and carried fire and devastation up to the boma of Wilyankun..

Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led a force of
five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it was supposed
Mirambo was living. Another party went out towards the low wooded
hills, a short distance north of Zimbizo, near which place they surprised
a youthful forest thief asleep, whose head they stretched backwards, and
cut it off as though he were a goat or a sheep. Another party sallied
out southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers,"
news of which came to our ears at noon.

In the morning I had go.ie to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent to
him how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest of Zimbizo,
lest it might hide any of the enemy; but soon afterwards I had been
ftruck down with another attack of intermittent fever, and was obliged
to turn in and cover myself with blankets to produce perspiration; but
not, however, till I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any oi
my .men to leave the camp. But I was told soon afterwards by Selim
that more than one-half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with
Soud bin Sayd.

About 6 p. M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the
news that all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been
killed ; and that more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some
of my own men returned, and from them I learned that Uledi, Grant's
former valet, ^labruki Khatalabu (Killer of his father), Mabruki ^che Lit-
tle), Baruti of Useguhha, and Ferahan had been killed.

Caught in Ambush.

I learned also that they had succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a
very short time, that Mirambo and his son were there, that as they suc-
ceeded in effecting an entrance, Mirambo had collected his men, and
after leaving the village, had formed an ambush in the grass, on each
side of the road, between Wilyankuru and Zimbizo, and that as the at-
tacking party were returning home laden with over a hundred tusks nl
ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or three hundred slaves, Mir-
ambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them, and stabbed them
with their spears.

The brave Soud had flred his double-barrelled gun and shot two men,

STANLEY'S HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS.

301

and was in the act of loading a^^ain when a spear was launched, which
penetrated through and through him ; all the other Arabs shared the
same fate. This sudden attack from an enemy they believed to be con-

WEAPONS USED IN WARFARE.

quered so demoralized the party that, dropping their spoil, each man
took to his heels, and after making a wide detour through the woods, re-
turned to Zimbizo to repeat the dolorous tale.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was impossible to sleep,
from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen. All ni-rht
they howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be heard the
5;roans of the wounded who^had contrived to crawl through the grass un-
pcrceived by the enemy, Fugitives were continually coming in throi^crh-
out the night, but none of my men who were reported to be dead, were
ever heard of again.

The next day was one of distrust, sorrow, and retreat ; the Arabs ac-
cused one another for urging war without expending all peaceful means
fust. There were stormy councils of war held, wherein were some who
proposed to return at once to Unyanyembe, and keep within their own
houses ; and Khamis bin Abdullah raved, like an insulted monarch,
against the abject cowardice of his compatriots. 1 hese stormy meetinfrs
and propositions to retrea: were soon known throughout the camp, and
assisted more than anything else to demoralize completely the combined
forces of Wanyamwezi and slaves. I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to
advise him not to think of retreat, as it would only be inviting Mirambo
.1 carry the war to Unyanyembe.

Hasty Fllgrht.
After despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but about
1.30 p. M. I was awakened by Selim saying " Master, get up, they are
all running away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going."

With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the
door. My first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away,
who, when he caught sight pf me, shouted out "Bana — quick — Mirambo
is coming." He was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket, with
Jiis eyes almost starting out of their sockets with terror. Khamis bin
Abdullah was also about departing, he being the last Arab to leave. Two
of my men were following him ; these Selim was ordered to force back
with u. revolver.

.Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to
giving me the slip, and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of
Mirambo. There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was
coolly eating his dinner, Mabruk Unyanyembe, ^^tamani, Juma, and Sar-
iiican — only sev^n out of fifty. All the others had deserted, and v.ce
by this time far away, except Uledi and Zaidi, whom Selim brought
la ok at the point of a loaded revolver. Selim was then told to saddle
n)y donkey, and Bombay to assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few
moments we were on the road, the men ever looking back for the com-
ing enemy; they belabored the donkeys to some purpose, for they went

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STANLEYS HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS.

303

at a hard trot, which caused me intense pain. I would gladly have lain
down to die, but life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all hope of
being able to preserve it to the full and final accomplishment of my mis-
sion. My mind was actively at work planning and contriving during the
long lonely hours of night, which we employed to reach Mfuto, whither
I found the Arabs had retreated.

Safe at Last.

In the night Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would not rise, though
implored to do so. As I did not despair myself, so I did not intend that
Slia^v should despair. He was lifted on his animal, and a man was placed
on each side of him to assist him ; thus we rode through the darkness.
At midnigiit we reached Mfuto safely, and were at once admitted into the
village, from which we had issued so valiantly, but to which we were now
returned so ignominiously,

I found all my men had arrived here before dark. Ulimengo, the bold
guide who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and was so
sanguine of victory, had performed the eleven hours' march in six hours;
sturdy Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the faithfuUest of my people,
had arrived only half an hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi
the dandy — the orator — the rampant demagogue — yes — he had come
third ; and Speke's " Faithfuls " had proved as cowardly as any poor
" nigS^'' " of them all. Only Selira was faithful.

I asked Selim, " Why did you not also run away, and leave your
master to die ?" " Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, " I was afraid
you would whip me."

From the last-mentioned place, Mfuto, Stanley returned to Kivihara.
Here he was detained a considerable time, during which he received au-
thentic news of Livingstone from an Arab, who had met with him
travelling into Manyuema,and who affirmed that, having gone to a market
at Liemba in three canoes, one of them, in which all his cloth had been
placed, was upset and lost. The news of Farquhar's death here reached

him.

The Chief Retreats.

A5 he had expected, Mirambo advanced ; and one of the leading Arabs
nnd his adopted son, who had gone out with their slaves to meet him,
the slaves having deserted, were killed.

The neighboring village of Tabora was burned, and Kivihara itselt
was threatened. Stanley made preparations for defence, and having col-
lected a hundred and fifty armed men, bored loopholes for the muskets
in the clay walls of the tembe^ formed rifle-pits round it, tore down the

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WONDERS IF THE TROPICS.

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huts, and removed everything which might afford shelter to the enemy,
felt little fear for the consequences. Mirambo, however, seemed to have
thought better of it, and marched away with his troops, satisfied with the
plunder he had obtained. "Month after month passed away, and he had
pfreat difficulty in obtaining soldiers to supply the places of those who
had been killed or died, which was the fate of several.

He one day received a present of a little slave boy from an Arab mer-
chant, to whom, at Bombay's suggestion, the name of Kalulu, meaning a
young antelope, was given.

An Arab named Mohammed, 5ays Stanley, presented me to-day with
a little boy-slave, called "NdL:gu M'hali" (my brother's wealth). As I
did not like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and
asked them to give him a better name. One suggested " Simba" (a lion),
another said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow) would suit the boy-child,
another thought he ought to be called " Mirambo," which raised a loud
laugh. Bombay thought " Bombay Mdogo " would suit my black-skin-
ned infant very well. Ulimengo, however, after looking at his <]uick eyes,
and noticing his celerity of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-lu
as the best for him, "because," said he, "just look at his eyes so bri[^ht!
lo'^k at his form, so slim ! watch his movements, how quick ! Yes,
Kalulu is his name." " Yes '^ana," said the others, "let it be Kalulu."

" Kalulu " is a term for the young of the blue-buck antelope.

" Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan, Selim,
who was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the water, " let his
name henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it
was that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be called Kalulu.
Shaw Gives Out and is Sent Back.

On the 9th of September Mirambo received a severe defeat, and had
to take to flight, several of his chief men being slain.

Shaw gave Stanley a great <.'.cal of trouble. Again he himself was
attacked with fever, but his white companion in no degree sympathized
with him, even little Kalulu showing more feeling. Weak as he was, he,
however, recommenced his march to the westward, with about forty men
added to his old followers.

Bombay, not for the first time, proving refractory and impudent, received
a thrashing before starting, and when Stanley arrived at his camp at night,
ho found that upwards of twenty of the mtn had remained behind. He,
therefore, sent a strong body back, under Selim, who returned with the
men and some heavy slave-chains, and Stanley declared that if auy be-
haved in the same way again he would fasten them together and make

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

them march like slaves. Shaw also showed an unwillingness to go for.
ward, and kept tumbling from his donkey, either purposely or from weak-
ness, till at last Stanley consented to allow him to return to Unyanycmbe.

On the 1st of October, while he and his party lay encamped under a
gigantic sycamore-tree, he began to feel a contentment and comfort to
which he had long been a stranger, and he was enabled to regard his sur-
roundings with satisfaction. Though the sun's rays were hot, the next
Jay's march was easily performed. On. the roadside lay a dead man ;
indeed, skeletons or skulls were seen every day, one, and sometimes two,
of men who had fallen down and died, deserted by their companions.
Narrow Escape from a Crocodile.

While encamped near the Gambe, its calm waters, on which lotus-leaves
rested placidly, all around looking picturesque and peaceful, invited Stan-
ley to take a bath. He discovered a shady spot under a wide-spreadini^
mimosa, where the ground sloped down to the still water, and having un-
dressed, and was about to take a glorious dive, when his attention was
attracted by an enormously long body which shot into view, occupjing
the spot bcneatli the suface which he was about to explore by a header,
It was a crocodile ! He sprang back instinctively. This proved his sal-
vation, for the monster turned away with a disappointed look, anu he
registered a vow never to be tempted again by the treacherous calm of an
African river.

The method of capturing this immense creature and getting it ashore
is told by a tropical traveller, and will be read with interest.

" One of our women went to the river to wash, but never leturned.
This was close to our diahbeeah; and the water being shallow, there is
no doubt that she was seized by a crocodile.

" I ,vas one day returning from head-quarters to my station, a distance
of a mile and a half along the river's bank, when I noticed the large head
of a crocodile about thirty yards from the shore. I knew every inch of
the river, and I was satisfied that the water was shallow. A solitar)- piece
of waving rusli tliat grew upon the bank exactly opposite the crocodile
would mark the position; thus, stooping down, I quietly retreated inland
from the bank, and then running forward, I crept gently toward the rush.
Stooping as Uav as possible, I advanced till very near the bank (upon
which grew tufts of grass), until, by slowly raising my head, I could
observe the head of the crocodile in the same position, not more than
twenty-six or twenty-eight yards from me.

" At that distance, my gun could hit a half-crown; I therefore made
sure of bagging. The bank was about f)ur feet above thcf water ; thus

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the angle was favorable, and I aimed just behind the eye. Almost as I
touched the trigger, the crocodile gave a convulsive start, and turning
slowly on its back, it stretched its four legs above the surface, straining
every muscle ; it then remained motionless in this position in water about
two feet deep.

" My horse was always furnished with a long halter or tethering-rope :
thus I ordered the guide and another man to jump into river and secure
the crocodile by a rope fastened round the body behind the fore-legs.
This was quickly accomplished, and the men remained knee-deep, haulinn'
upon the rope to prevent the .stream from carrying away the body. In
the mean time an attendant had mounted my horse and galloped off for
assistance to the camp.

" Crocodiles are very tenacious of life; and although they may be shot
through the brain, and be actually dead for all practical purposes, they will
remain motionless at first; but they will begin instinctively to move the
limbs and tail a few minutes alter receiving the shot. If lying upon a
sand-bank, or in deep water, they would generally disappear unless
secured by a rope, as the spasmodic movements of the limbs and tail
would act upon the water, and the body would be carried away.

Men Stricken with Terror.

" The crocodile, that had appeared stone dead, now began to move its
tail, and my two men who were holding on to the rope cried out that it
was still alive. It was in vain that I assured the frightened fellows that
it was dead. I was on the bank, and they were in the water within a few
feet of the crocodi'e, which made some difference in our ideas of its
vivacity. Presently the creature really began to struggle, and the united
efforts of the men could hardly restrain it from getting into deeper water.

• The monster now began to yawn, which so terrified the men that they
iwould have dropped the rope and fled, had they not been afraid of the con-
sequences, as I was addressing them rather forcibly from the bank. I put
another shot through the shoulder of the struggling monster, which ap-
peared to act as a narcotic until the arrival of the soldiers with ropes.
No sooner was the crocodile well secured than it began to struggle vio-
lently ; but a great number of men hauled upon the rope, and when it
was safely landed, I gave it a blow with a sharp axe on the back of the
leck, which killed it by dividing the spine.

" It was now dragged along the turf until we reached the camp, where
it was carefully measured with a tape, and showed an exact length of
twelve feet three inches from snout to end of tail.

•' The stomach contained about five pounds' weight of pebbles^ as though

STANLEY'S HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS.

309

it had Fed upon flesh resting upon a gravel-bank, and had swallowed the
pebbles that had adhered. In the midst of this were three undeniable wit-
nesses that convicted the crocodile of willful murder. A necklace and two
armlets, such as are worn by the negro girls, were taken from the stom-
ach ! The girl had been digested. This was an old malefactor that wa*.
a good riddance.

*' I had frequently seen crocodiles upward of eighteen feet in length,
and there can be little doubt that they sometimes exceed twenty ; but a
very small creature of this species may carry away a man while swim-
ming. Tiie crocodile does not attempt to swallow an animal at once ;
but having carried it to a favorite feeding-place, generally in some deep
hole, it tears it limb from limb with teeth and claws, and devours it at

leisure."

Stanley Quelling* Mutiny.

As war was going on in the country, it was necessary for Stanley to
proceed with caution. Some of his followers also showed a Svroag incli-
nation to mutiny, which he had to quell by summary proce'jdings, and
Bombay especially sank greatly in his good opinion. As they approached
Lake Tanganyika all got into better humor, and confidence returned be-
tween them. They laughed joyously as they glided in Indian file through
the forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted of their
prowess. An ambassador from Simba, the Lion of Kasera, received two
gorgeous cloths, and other articles, as tribute — Stanley thus making that
chief a friend for ever.

Stanley gives an interesting account of some of his adventures m this
part of his journey.

One day, he says, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to

the beautiful stream of Mtambu — the water of which was sweet, and

clear as crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the

home of the lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of the

place :

Where the thorny brake and thicket

Densely fill the interspace
Of the trees, through whose thick branches

Never sunshine lights the place.
There the Hon dwells, a monarch,

Mightiest among the brutes ;
There his right to reign supremest

Never one his claim disputes.
There he layeth down to slumber,

Having s!ain and ta'en his fill ;
There he roameth, there he crouch«tb.

As it suits his lordly will.

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WONDERS OF THK TROPICS.

We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet de-
.=<ribes. The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkc)s, soon
;»ftcr our arrival in camp, drove the animals to water, and in order to
.lotain it they travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by clc-
) hunts and rhinoceros. They had barely entered the dark cavernous
l.)assage, when a black-spotted leopard sprang, and fastened its fangs in
I he neck of one of the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray
Indeously. Its companions set up such a frightful chorus, and so lashed
their heels in the air at the feline marauder, that the leopard bounded
away through the brake, as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which
the attack had provoked. The donkey's neck exhibited some frightful
wounds, but the animal was not dangerously hurt.

** I Peered Closely Into Every Dark Opening.'*

Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a lion or
a leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose impenetrable shade
grew tiie dense thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the car-
nivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome place with the gun-
bearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra gun, and a further supply of ammunition.

We crept cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark dens,
the entrances of which were revealed to us, as Ave journej'cd, expectant
every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and thicket,
bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight in picturing, in
my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the wrathful brute, as he
might stand before me. I peered closely into every dark opening, hoping
to see the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and the glowering
menacing front of the lion as he would regard me. But, alas ! after an
hour's search for adventure, I had encountered nothin<jf, and I accord-
ingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these leafy, thorny caverns,
and found myself shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that was
held above my head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering
stems of the royal mvule. Who can imagine the position ? A smootli
1 iwn-like glade; a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around
us; those stately natural pillars — a glorious phalanx of royal trees, bear-
ing at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage, through which
no single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval brook,
:)ver smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet of the scene!
Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy harmony of nature?

But just as I was thinking ic impossible that any man could be tempted
to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw a monkey perched high
on a branch over my head, contemplating, with something of an awe-

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struck look, the strange intruders beneath. Well, I could not help it, I
laughed — laughed loud and long, until I was hushed by the chaos of
cries and strange noises which seemed to respond to my laughing. A
troop of monkeys, hidden in the leafy depths above, had been rudely
awakened, and, startled by the noise I made, were hurrying away from
the scene with a dreadful clamor of cries and shrieks.

Eiicountcr With n Wild Hoar.

Emerging again into the broad sunlight, T strolled further in search of
something to shoot. Presently, I saw, feeding quiedy in the forest which
bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge, formidable
wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leaving Kalulu crouched
down behind a tree, and my solar helmet behind another close by — that
I might more safely stalk the animal — I advanced toward him some forty
yards, and after taking a deliberate aim, fired at his fore shoulder.

As if nothing had hurt him. whatever, the animal made a furious bound,
and then stood with his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved over the
back — a most formidable brute in appearance. While he was thus lis-
tening, and searching the neighborhood with his keen, small eyes, I
planted another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through b's
body. Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he 'charged
furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed past me,
another ball was lired, which went right through him ; but still he kept
on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees behind which Kalulu
was crouching down on one side, and the helmet was resting behind
another, he suddenly halted, and then dropped.

But as I was about to advance on him with my knife to cut his throat,
he suddenly started up ; his eyes had caught sight of the little boy
Kalulu, and were then, almost immediately afterwards, attracted by the
sight of the snowy helmet. These strange objects on either side of him
proved too much for the boar, for, with a terrific grunt, he darted on one
side into a thick brake, from which it was impossible to oust him, and as
it was now getting late, and the camp was about three miles away, I was
reluctantly obliged to return without the meat.

A RiTer Full of Dangers.

On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which
persistently followed us on our left. It was too dark to see plainly, but
a large form was visible, if not verj* clearly defined. It must have been
a liOiT, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar.

On the evening of the 2d of November the left bank of the Malagarazi
river was reached. The greater part of the day had been occupied in

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313

ncgotaiting with the ambassador of the great Mzogera, cMi * the greedy
VVavinza tribe, who demanded an enormous tribute. This uoing settled,
the ferrymen demanded equally preposterous payment for carrying across
the caravan. These demands, howevrt", having at length been settled,
the next business was to swim the donkeys across. One fine animal,
Simba, was being towed with a rope roun<l its neck, when just as it
reached the middle of the stream, it was seen to struggle fearfully. An
enormous crocodile had seized the poor animal by the throat ; in vain it
attempted to liberate itself. The black in charge tugged at the rope,
but the donkey sank and was no more seen. Only one donkey
now remained, and this was carried across by Bombay the next morning,
before the voracious monsters were looking out for their breakfasts.

The next day was an eventful one. Just before starting, a caravan was
seen approaching, consisting of a large party of the Waguhha tribe, oc-
tupying a tract of country to the southwest of Lake Tanganyika.

The news was asked. A white man had been seen by them who had
/ately arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema. He had white hair and a white
beard, and was sick. Only eight days ago they had seen him. He had
been at Ujiji before, and had gone away and returned. There could be
no doubt that this was Livingstone. How Stanley longed for a horse I
for on a good steed he could reach Ujiji in twelve hours.
KeariDg: the End of the Journey.

In high spirits he started, pushing on as fast as his men could move.
There were dangers, however, still in the way. A war party of Wavinza
was out, who would not scruple even to rob their own villages when
returning victorious from battle.

Next day they traveled on in silence, but on the 5th they fell in with a
party of the Wahha, who soon brought a band of warriors down upon
them, at the head of which appeared a fine-looking chief, Mionvu by
name, dressed in a crimson robe, with a turban on his head, he and his
people being armed with spears, and bows and arrows. He asked
whether it should be peace or war? The reply wsi, of course, peace.
At the same time Stanley hinted that his rifles would quickly give him the
victory should war be declared. Notwithstanding this Mionvu demanded
a hundred cloths as tribute. Ten were offered. Rather than pay the
hundred, Stanley asked his followers if they would fight, but Bombay
urged pacific measures, remarking that the country was open — no places
to hide in, and that every village would rise in arms.

" Pay, Bana, pay : it is better to get along quietly in this country," he
observed.

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WONDERS OK Tllli TROPICS.

Mabriiki and Asmani a^-^cd with him. The tribute was paid. StaiiKy
wisely rc.si)lvetl, if possible, not to come back that way.

A ni^dit march was determined on, and siifikient ^rain was purchased

to hist the caravan si.\ days through the jungle. They hoped thus to

escape the extoi tions of other chiefs to the westward. The men bravely

toilet! on, without murmuring;, though their feet ami le^s bled from the

cutting grass. The jungle was alive with wild animals, but no one dareil

fire.

IVoninu in Hysterics.

As they were halting in the morning near the Rusugi river, a party of
natives were seen, who detected them in their hiding-place, but who (led
immediately to alarm some villages four miles away. At once the cara-
van was ordered to move on, but one of the women took to .•>creamin<'^
and even her husband could not keep her quiet till a cloth was folded
over her mouth.

At night they bivouacked in silence, neither tent nor hut being erected,
each soldier lying down with his gun loaded by his side, their gallant
leader, with his Winchester rille and its magazine full, ready for any
emergency.

Before dawn broke, the caravan was again on its march. The guide
having made a mistake, while it was still dark, they arrived in front of
tile village of Uhha. Silence was ordered ; goats and chickens which
might have made a noi.se had their throats cut, and they pushed boldly
through the village. Just as the last hut was passed, Stanley bringing up
the rear, a man appeared from his hut, and uttered a cry of alarm.

They continued their course, plunging into the jungle. Once he be-
lieved that they were followed, and he took post behind a tree to check
the atK ance of their f ics ; but it proved a false alarm. Turning westward,
broad daylight showed them a beautiful and picturesque country, wild
fruit- trees, rare flowers, and brooks tumbling over polished pebbles.
Crossing a streamlet, to their great satisfaction they left Uhha and its
extortionate inhabitants behind, and entered Ukaranga.

Their apjiearance created great alarm as they approached the village,
the king and his people supposing them to be Rugruga, the followers of
Mirambo, but, discovering their mistake, they welcomed them cordially.
On the loth of November, just two hundred and thirty-six days after
Laving Bagomoyo, and fifty-one since they set out from Unyanyembe,
surmounting a hill, Tanganyika is seen before them. Six hours* march
will bring them to its shores.

I .

STANLEYS HEROIC ACmnVF.MF.NTS.

315

Slanley'.s emotions upon reachinj; the end of his great and perilous
iourncy, and coniinj; so near to the successful accomplishment of his
ciulcrtaking, arc best described in Iiis own words : " A little further on —
jist yonder, oh I there it is — a silvery j;;lcam. I merely catch sij^ht of it
S twccn the trees, and — hut here it is at last! True — tmk Tan(;anyika!
,11(1 there are the blue-black mountains of U^oma anil Ukaramba. An
immense broad sheet, a burnished l)ed of silver — lucid canopy of blue
above — lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its frinj^es !
The Tanganyika ! — Hurrah! and the men respond to the exultant c^y
if the An^lo-Saxon with the lnn^s of Stentors, and the great forests and
the hills seem to share in our triumph.

"'Was this the place where Burton and Spcke stood, Bombay, when
ilicy saw the Idke first ? ' "

"I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think.'"

"' Poor fellows I The one was half-paralyzed the other half-blind,'"
said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Speke's
arrival in view of the Tanganyika.

St»iilcy*8 Joy.

" And I ? Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and blinded,
I think that at this supreme moment I could tak up my bed and walk,
aiui all blindness would cease at once. Fortunately, however, I am quite
well ; I have not suffered a day's sickness since the d ly 1 left Unyanycmbe.
How much would Shaw be willing to give to be in my place now ? Who
l^ happiest — he, revelling in the luxuries of Unyanycmbe, or I, standing
on the sunmiit of this mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud
li -art on the Tanganyika ? "

It can easily be .seen from the foregoing extract that Stanley's heart was
jilinost too full to contain itself. His spirits bubble and overflow like
iliosc of a boy excited and charmed by coming into possession of some-
thing; greatly coveted. The one thing coveted by Stanley, sought by
iiiiii through those weary days and dreadful marches, was the discovery
of Livingstone; for this he went. This one object he kept continually
before him. Never losing sight of it, he pressed on until we find him
:i )\v looking down upon the lake on the shores of which he was to meet
tiie object of his long search.

A man is worth looking for, especially such a man as Livingstone.
Many, many years of his precious life were 'devoted to African explora-
tion, and the benefit conferred upon him by Stanley's arrival was as
nothing compared to che infinite benefit he, by his labors and triumphs,
has conferred upon the world.

El I

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Best of all in this marvellous transaction, Livingstone had no idea that
anyone was seeking him ; that anyone had been sent to find out whether
he were alive or dead ; that any supplies had been forwarded for his
relief; that any special interest was taken in him more than a general
desire to learn of his welfare. Stanley's coming was a happy surprise^
It must have been more enjoyable to Livingstone than if rumors had!
gone ahead of Stanley's expedition, and it had become known that he
was on the march. There is everything about this completion of Stan-
ley's journey to give us satisfaction, and nothing seems to be wanting to
finish the picture.

Very clearly does the lesson come out that an iron will and a persistent
perseverance will master difficulties. There were many points in this
journey from Zanzibar to Ujiji in which discouragement might have car-
ried the day ; many points where it would have been much easier to turn
back than to go forward. The path trodden was at least known ; the
path to be trod was unknown, and the explorer could not guess what
dangers and obstacles were just ahead. Whatever may have been his
fears, he did not allow them to prevail, but day by day, and hour by
hour, pressed steadily forward. Sickness came, his force was diminished,
wild savages attacked him, privations were his constant companions, yet,
through it all, the vision of the lost explo'-er stood before him and he
remembered the words of Beiinett, in the brilliant capital of Europe— far
away from these scen'^s of savage life and mountainous difficulties — " Find
Livin^^stone."

This whole marvellous story illustrates the value of a great purpo ?j a
single aim, an unconquerable resolution. To-morrow Henry M. Stanley
and David Livingstone will meet — two white men in the wilds of Afri:a,
both im;nortal now, and both ranked among the world's great heroes.

'1-1 1

CHAPTER XIV.
STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

Itanley's Perseverance— Mastering Mountains of Difficulty— Bent on Finding Living*
stone— Characteristics of the Two Great Explorers— Livingstone's* Touching
Reference to the Death of His Wife— Wonderful Results of African Exploration-
Stanley Approaches Ujiji— News of a Brother White Man— Great Excitement
Among the Travellers— Unfurling Flags and Firing Guns— Ujiji Surprised by tlie
Coming of the Caravan— People Rusliing by Hundreds to Meet Stanley— Joyous
Welcome— Meeting the Servant of Livingstone — Flags, Streamers and Greet-
ings — Livingstone's Surprise — ^The Great Travellers Face to Face— Stanley
Relating the News of the Past Six Years — Livingstone's Personal Appearance —
A Soldier from Unyanyembe— A Celebrated Letter Bag — Letters a Year Old —
Narrative of Great Events— What Livingstone Thought of Stanley's Arrival-
Letter to James Gordon Bennett — The Explorer's Forlorn Condition — On the
Eve of Death when Stanley Arrived — Livingstone Thrilled by Mr. Bennett's
Kindness— Some Account of the Country Visited— Discussing Future Plans —
Stanley's Description of Livingstone— Fine Example of the Anglo-Saxon Spirit —
Life Given to Ethiopia's Dusky Children— Livingstone's Marvellous Love for
Africa.

/5)0NG and perilous days those were which were passed by Stanley
1 f and his caravan. Yet they illustrate one of the most important
lessons of life, which is that no one is to make more than a day's
journey at a time and that the most practical method of overcoming
difficulties is to take them and master them one by one. If Stanley had
been less resolute, if he had been easily discouraged, if he were one of
the men who make a sudden start and then as suddenly halt, if he had
not been a kind of Hercules in body and in soul, if he had possessed less
of the push and enterprise which always go with a great character, the
world would never have rung with acclaim at his achievements.

It was a new experience to him, that of traversing the wilds of the
Dark Continent, quelling mutiny among his men, meeting unfriendly
chiefs who were given to rapacious extortion, and plunging on through
jungles, thickets and pathless tracts, untrodden and unmarked, yet he
had gene with the definite puipose of finding Livingstone, and, as we
read the stoiy of his successful search, we are quite rcuuy to believe that
he would sooner have laid down his life than failed in his undertaking.

Livingstone was a man nearly sixty years old; Stanley had on his side
»11 the advantages of youth. He had been toughened by early adversity,
by travelling in various climes, exposure to all winds and all weathc rs,

(317)

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318

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

and it may be doubted whether any other man in our time has been so
well equipped with courage, latent resources, rommand of men, sturdy
heroism and self-sarrifice as he was* for the almost miraculous task con-
fided to him by his wealtli/ and enterprising patron, ^r. Bennett.

In reading of his adventures and successes, we are quite apt to lose
sight of certain great results which must inevitably follow from his jour-
neys in Africa. We see only the lost explorer, Livingstone, admired
and beloved by half the world, his terrible sufferings and the slow wast-
ing of his life. But this man, this hero to whom so many eyes arc
turned, this great explorer, who, like Stanley, was much more than a
mere adventurer, is only one figure in the vivid scene which passes before
our eyes. It will not do to limit our thought to either of these men or
to both of them.

Two Famous Travellers.

Livingstone had forsaken his early home and his fatherland ; all the
hardship that comes to one by being in an uncivilized country fell to his
lot; the wife who had shared his fortunes, and quite as ofte.-i, his misfor-
tunes, had been rudely torn from his side; the vast benefit to savage
races which she as well as her illustrious husband was capable of impart-
ing was suddenly lost. The beautiful and touching reference of Living-
stone to her grave, which has been related, is something that must move
the heart of every reader.

Stanley's journeys were free from some of the incidents which are so
thrilling in those of the one he was trying to find, yet others fell to his
lot with which Livingstone was unacquainted. And so this man stands
out in strong proportions, with a most remarkable i idividuality of his
own ; a man raised up for a certain work, peculiar in his make-up, en-
dowed for adventure and exploit, and ages hence history will turn to him
and write some of its most eloquent pages.

Still it is trie that the great interest of African exploration does not
gather around either of these men, or both of them, except as they are
the instruments for penetrating a continent hitherto dark and unknown:
for what they achieved in bringing the dark races of Africa under the
full light of modern civilization and Christianity is, after all, the finest
thing to be noted. Whoever studies history knows v^ry well that every
man is building higher than he thinks, accomplishing more than he
imagines, casting off results that are left behind hii.i as he crowds on,
while his unconscious influence and the incidental effects of his life and
undertakings are such as we hnve no scales for weighing.

Wc closed the last chapter by leaving Stanley within a short distance

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

319

of" Ujiji, where he had every reason to believe he would find Livingstone.
Here one part of our narrative of African exploration culminates, and
iiiuvonted interest attends it. After having been lost half a dozen years,
Livingstone is to be met by a brother white man, who will assure liim

>
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A T L A N

that the world is interested in his welfare. It will be to him a surprise,
and a piece of intelligence as gratifying as it is unexpected. It will con-*
vince him that his heroic sacrifices are not forgotten, and will be treas-
ured and commemorated after he is gone.
In his thrilling account of the meeting with Livingston?', Stanley

ip.

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320

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

says : We push on rapidly, le«=t the news of our coming might reach the
piiople of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them. We
halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked ridge, the
very last o/ the myriads we have crossed. This alone prevents us from
seeing the lake in all its vastness. We arrive at the summit, travel
across and arrive at its western rim, and — pause, reader — the port of
Ujiji is below us, embowered in the palms, only five hundred yards
from us.

At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended and de-
scended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the jungles and
thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains that blistered our
feet, or of the hot sun that scorched us, nor of the dangers and difficul-
ties, now happily surmounted I

" One, Two, Tliree,— Fire ! »»

At last the sublime hour had arrived ; — our dreams, our hopes, and
anticipations are now about to be realized ! Our hearts and our feelings
are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to make out in
which hut or house lives the " white man with the gray beard " we had
already heard about.

" Unfurl the flags, and load your guns ! "

" We will, master, we will, master ! " respond the men eagerly.

" One, two, three,— fire ! "

A voliey from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a battery of
artillery ; we shall note its effect presently on the peaceful-looking village
below.

" Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the Zan-
zibar flag bring up the rear. And you men keep close together, and
keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the white man's
house. You have said to me often that you could smell the fish of the
Tanganyika — I can smell the fish of the Tanganyika now. There are fish,
and beer, and a long rest waitmg for you. March ! "

Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
effect desired. We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a caravan
was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in hundreds to
meet us. The mere sight of the flags informed every one immediately
that we were a caravan, but the American flag borne aloft by gigantic
Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on this day, rather staggered
them at first. However, many of the people who now approached us,
remembered the flag. They had seen it float above the American Con-

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

321

sulate, and from the mast-head of many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar,

and they were soon heard welcoming the beautiful flag with cries o(

" Bindera Kisungu I " — a white man's flag 1 " Bindera Merikani! " — the

American flag ! ' .

Joyous Welcome.

Then we were surrounded by them and were almost deafened with the
shouts of " Yambo, yambo, bana ! Yambo, bana ! Yambo, bana ! " Tc
each and all of my men the welcome was given.

We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji, and
the crowds are dense about me. Suddenly I hear a voice on my right

say,

"Good morning, sir!"

Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of black
people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see him at my
side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and joyous — a man dressed
in a long white shirt, with a turban of American sheeting around his
woolly head, and I ask:

" Who th^ mischief are you ? "

"I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said he, smiling, and
showing a gleaming row of teeth.

"What I Is Dr. Livingstone here?"

"Yes, sir."

"In this village?"

"Yes, sir."

"Are you sure?"

"Sure, sure, sir. Why I leave him just now."

"Good morning sir," said another voice.

" Hallo," said I, " is this another one ? "

"Yes, sir."

" Well, what is your name ? "

" My name is Chumah, sir."

"What! ?xe you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?"

"Yes, sir."

" And is the doctor well ? "

" Not very well, sir."

"Where has he been so long?"

"In Manyuema."

" Now, you Susi, run and tell the doctor I am coming."

" Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.

But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village, and
21

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fiifrrj't;:

822

WONDERS OF THE 1 ROPICS.

the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our march.
Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were pushing
their way through the natives in order to greet us, for according to their
account, we belonged to them. Biit the great wonder of all was, " How
did you come from Unyanyfembe ? "

Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
the doctor I was cominfi., but the doctor was too surprised to believe
him, and when the doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather stag-
gered.

But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the doctor
that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns were firing,
and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab magnates of Ujiji —
Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abidbin Suliman, Mohammed bin
Gharib, and others — had gathered together before the doctor's house, and
the doctor had come out from his veranda to discuss the matter and
awaitniy arrival.

In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the kir-
angozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Sclim said to me,
^* I see the doctor, sir. Oh, what an old man I He has got a white
beard." And I — what would I not have given for a bit of friendly wil-
derness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some mad freak, such as
idiotically biting my hand, turning a somersault, or slashing at trees, in
order to allay those exciting feelings that were well-nigh uncontrollable.
My heart beats fast, but I must not let my face betray my emotions, lest
it shall detract from the dignity of a white man appearing under such ex-
traordinary circumstances.

Tlio Travellers Meet.

So I did that which I thought was most dignified. I pushed back the
crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue of peo-
ple, until I came in front of the .semicircle of Arabs, before which stood
the *' white man with a grey beard."

As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he looked
wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache, that he wore
a oluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red ground round it, and
that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a pair of grey tweed
trousers.

I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of such a
mob — would have embraced him, but that I did not know how he would
receive it ; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride suggested was
the best thing — walked deliberately to him, took off my hat, and said :

>
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■ 1
1

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\

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

* Dr. Livingstone, I presume ? "

"Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.

32a

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1 replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we both
grasped handle I then said aloud :

1^.

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324

WO.,DERS OF THE TROPICS.

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" I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you."

He answered, " I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you.'*
What News Alter Six Years.

I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
saEuting choAis of " Yambos " I received, and the doctor introduced them
to me by name. Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of the men
who shared with me my dangers, we — 7 wingsione and I — turned our
faces towards his house. He pointed to the veranda, or rather, mud plat-
form, under the broad overhanging ca 'es; he pointed to his own particu-
lar seat, which I saw his age and experience in Africa had suggested
namely, a straw mat, with a goatskin over it, and another skin nailed
against the wall to protect his back from contact with the cold mud. I
protested against taking this seat, .vhich so much more befitted hi.i)
than mo, bu*. the doctor would not yield: I must take it.

We were seated — tlie doctor and I — with our backs to the wall. The
Arabs took seats on our left. More than a thousana r<atives were in our
front, filling the whole square densely, induh^ing their c jriosJty, and dis-
cussing the fact of two white men meeting at Ujiji — one just come from
Manyuema, in the west, the othc/ from Unyanyembe, in the east.

Conversation began. What about? I declare I have forgotten. Oh!
we mutually asked questions of one another, such as:

"How did you come here?" and "Where have you been -all this long
time? — the world has believed you to be dead." Yes, that was the way
it began ; but whatever the doctor informed me, and that which I com-
municated to him, I cannot correctly repjrt, for I found myself gazing at
him, conning the wonderful figure and face oi the man at whose side I
now sat in Central Africa.

Marvellous History of Deeds.

Every hair of his head and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness
of his features, and the slightly wearied look be wore, were all imparting
intelligence to me— the knowledge I craved ^or so much ever since I
heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone." What I
saw wa? deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished tnith. I
was listening and reading at the same time. What did these dumb wit-
nesses relate to me? #

Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in U'ijI, how elo-
quently could be told the nature of this man's work! Had you been
there but to see and hear! His lip? gdv2 me the details; lips^that never
lie. I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much engrossed to take my
note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story. He had so much to

U ::•■

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

325

say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious of the fact that five or
six years had to be accounted for. But his account was oozing out; it
was growing fast into grand proportions — into a most marvellous history
of deeds. '

The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
knew that we ought to be left to ourselves.

I sent Bombay with them to give them the news they also wanted so
mnch to kna^v about the affairs at Unyanyembe. Sayd bin Majid was
the father of the gallant young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who
fought with me at Zimbizo, and who soon afterwards was killed by Mi-
rambo's Ruga-Ruga in the forest of Wilyankuru ; and, knowing that I
had been there, he earnestly desired vo hear the tale of the fight ; but
they had all friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they
should be anxious to hear of what concerned them.

Letters A Year Old.

After giving orders to Bombay and Asmanifor the provisioning of the
men of the Expedition, I called " Kaif-Halek," or " How-do-ye-do," and
introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in charge of
certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled to accompany
me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his master the letter-bag
with which he had been intrusted. This was that famous letter-bag
marked "Nov. ist, 1870," which was now delivered into the doctor's
hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar ! How long, I wonder, had it re-
mained at Unyanyembe had I not been despatched into Central Africa in
search of the great traveller ?

The doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened it,
looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of his chil-
dren's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.

He asked me to tell him the news. " No, doctor," said I, " read your
ietters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read."

"Ah," said he," I have waited years for letters, and I have been taught
patience. I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer. No, tell me
the general news : how is the worl J getting along ?"

" You probably know much already. Do you know that the Suez
Canui is a fact — is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europt?i
and India through it ?"

" I did not hear about the opening of it. Well, that is grand news !
What else ?"

Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical to
him. There was no need of exaggeration — or any penny-a-line news, or

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326

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

of any sensationalism. The world had witnessed and experienced mt/cfi
the last few years. The Pacific Railroad had been completed; Gr'uit
had been elected President of the United States ; Egypt had been floe, led
with savans ; the Cretan rebellion had terminated; a Spanish rcvolulion
iiad driven Isabella from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been atv
pointed ; Gsjncral Prim was assassinated ; a Castelar had electrified
Europe with his advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia
liad humbled Denmark, and annexed Schlesvvig-Holstein, and her armies
were now around Paris ; the " man of Destiny " was a prisoner at Wil-
helmshohe ; the Queen of F'ashion and the Empress of the P>ench was
a fugitive; and the child born in the purple had lost forever the Imperial
crown intended for his head ; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished by
the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud em-
pire, was humbled to the dust.

What could a man have exaggerated of these facts ? What a budget
of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the primeval
forests of Manyuema ! The reflection of the dazzling light of civiliza-
tion was cast on him while Livingstone was thus listening in wonder to
one of the most exciting pages of history ever repeated. How the puny
deeds of barbarism paled before these ! Who could tell under what new
phases of uneasy life Europe was laboring even then, v;hile we, two of
her lonely children, rehearsed the tale of her late v»oes and glories?
More worthily, perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted
them; but, in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent per-
formed his part as well and truthfully as he could.

What was thought by Livingstone himself about the arrival of Stanley,
which had probably prolonged his sinking life, is fully set forth in a
letter to Mr. Bennett, who had sent Stanley into the dark wilderness of
Africa. This letter deserves to be put on record, and especially here in
the history of those marvellous achievements in Africa, which have awak-
ened the interest of the civilized world.

Ujiji, ON Tanganyika, East Africa,
Novetnbcr, 1871.
James Gordon BESNErr,jR., Esq.

My dear Sir, — It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one^we
have never seen — it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea — but
the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this distant
region takes away the strangeness I should otherwi.»-0 have felt, and in
writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that prompted you to
send him, I feel quite at home.

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

327

If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will easily
perceive that I have gcod reason to use very strong expressions of grat-
flude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundred and five
hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been baffled, wor-
ried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight of the end of
the geographical part of my mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem
slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men. The sore heart made
still sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man
racked and told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure,
I thought that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say that
almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and I reached
Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.

There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of goods
which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been entrusted
to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squandering them for
sixteen months on the way to Ujiji, finished up by selling off all that re-
mained for slaves and ivory for himself. He had " divined " on the Koran
and found that I was dead. He had also written to the Governor of
Unyanyembe that he had sent sjaves after me to Manyuema, who returned
and reported my decease, and begged permission to sell off the few goods
that his drunken appetite had spared.

He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that I
was alive, and waiting for the goods and men ; but as for morality, he is
evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of the dagger
or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute of everything
save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken the precaution t»o
Ifeave here in case of extreme need.

The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.

I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on
reaching the mouth <5f the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to despair
on breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no success after
that. Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a strong smack of
the ludicrous that it was out of the question.

Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of an
English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who went
down from Jerusalem to Jericho ; but neither priest, Levite, nor Samari-
tan could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was close at
kand, and one of my people rushed up at the top of his speed, and, ia
Ijreat excitement, gasped out," An Englishman coming! I see him I" and
oir he darted to meet hinu

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of a
caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.

I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually reputed
to be ; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, indeed, over-
whelming, and I said in my soul, " Let the richest blessings descend from
the Highest on you and yours I"

The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty polit-
ical changes on the Continent ; the success of the Atlantic cables ; the
election of General Grant, and many other topics riveted my attention for
days together, and had an immediate and beneficial eflect on my licallli.
I had been without news from home for years save what I could glean
from a few " Saturday Reviews " and " Punch " of i863. The appetite,
revived, and in a week I began to feel strong again.

Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from Lord
Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have received from
the Foreign Office since i866, and information that the British Govern-
ment had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my aid. Up to his
arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came unsalaried, but
this want is now happily repaired, and I am anxious that you and all my
friends should know that, though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to
the task which my friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John
Bullish " tenacity, believing that all would come right at last.

The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred miles in
length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable — that is, it would
take a man's lifetime to count them. From the watershed they converge
into four large rivers, and these again into two mighty streams in the
great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees to twelve degrees south
latitude. It was long ere light dawned on the ancient problem and gave
me a clear idea of the drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step of
the way, and was, generally, groping in the dark — for who cared where
the rivers ran ? " We drank oui fill and let the rest run by."

The Portuguese who visiter Casembe asked for slaves and ivory, and
heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and cross-
questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as afflicted with
hydrocephalus.

My last work, in which I have, been greatly -hindered from want of
suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage down
through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly,
Manyema. This line of drainage has four large lakes in it. The fourth
I was near when obliged to turn. It is from one to three miles broad,

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

329

and never can be reached at any point, or at any time of the year. Two
western drains, the Lufira, or Bartle Frere's River, flow into it at I^ke
Kamolondo. Then the great River Lomane flows through Lake Lincoln
into it too, and seems to form the western arm of the Nile, on which
Petherick traded.

Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and unfortu-
nately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the whole; for in it,
if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an earthen mound, and the
last of the four becomes, at no great distance off, a large river.

Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Loraame, and two run
south into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and the
Kaful.

Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary of
Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus ?

I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I cannot
doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for home that
seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish up by their
rediscovery.

Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again unaccount-
ably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on th*^ way,
instead of four months. I must go where they lie at your expense, ere I
can put the natural completion to my work.

I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your grea': gener-
osity, and am, Gratefully yours,

David Livingstone.
Help ill the Hour of Xecd.

At the time, when reduced almost to death's door by sickness and
disappointment, the assistance thus brought to Dr. Livingstone was of
inestimable worth. What might have been his fate had he not been
relieved, it is impossible to .say. The society of his new friend, the letters
from home, the well-cooked meal which the doctor was able to enjoy,
and the champagne quaffed out of silver goblets, and brought carefully
those hundreds ol" miles for that special object, had a wonderfully exhila-
rating influence.

Some days were spent at Ujiji, during which the doctor continued to
regain health and strength. Future plans were discussed, and his pre-
vious adventures described. The longer the intercourse Stanley enjoyed
with Livingstone, the more he rose in his estimation.

He formed, indeed, a high estimate of his character, though, he fully
believed, a j ust one.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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" Dr. Livingstone," he says, " is about sixty years old. His hair has a
brownish color, but here and there streaked with grey lines over the
temples. His beard and moustache are very grey. His eyes, which are
hazel, are remarkably bright: he has a sight keen as a hawk's. His
frame is a little over the ordinary height ; when walking, he has a firm
but heavy tread, like that of an r.'er- worked or fatigued man. I never
observed any spleen or misanthrophy about him.

A Remarkable Man.

" He has a fund of quiet humor, which he exhibits at all times when he
is among friends. During the four months I was with him I noticed
him every evening making most careful notes. His maps evince great
care and industry. He is sensitive on the point of being doubted or
criticized. His gentleness never forsakes him, his hopefulness never
deserts him; no harassing anxiety or distraction of mind, though- sepa-
rated from home and kindred, «.on make him complain. He thinks all
will come out right at last, he has such faith in the goodness of Provi-
dence. Another thing which especially attracted my attent'on was his
wonderfully retentive memory. His religion is not of the theoretical
kind, but it is constant, earnest, sincere, practical ; it is neither demon-
strative nor loud, but manifests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is
always at work. In him religion exhibits its loveliest features; it governs
his conduct not only towards his servants, but towards the natives. I
observed that universal respect was paid to him ; even the Mahomme-
dans never passed his house without calling to pay their compliments,
and to say : ' The blessing of God rest on you ! ' Every Sunday morn-
ing he gathers his little flock around him, and reads prayers and a chap-
tei" from the Bible in a natural, unaffected, and sincere tone, and after-
wards delivers a short address in the Kisawahili language, about the sub-
ject read to them, which is listened to with evident interest and attention.

" His consistent energy is native to him and his race. He is a very
fine example of the perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity "which char-
acterizes the Anglo-Saxon spirit. His ability to withstand the climate
is due not only to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to
the strictly temperate life he has ever led.

" It is a principle with him to do well what he undertakes to do, and,
in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the yearning for hi.s
home, which is sometimes overpowering, he finds to a certain extent con-
tentment, if not happiness.

" He can be charmed with the p: imitivt simplicity of Ethiopia's dusky
children, with '< horn he has spent so many years of his life. He has a

STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER.

331

sturdy faith in their capability — sees virtue in them, where others see
nothing but savagery ; and wherever he has gone among them,- he has
sought to ameliorate the condition of a people who are apparently for-
(Totcen of God and Christian men."

In another place Stanley says : " Livingstone followed the dictates of
duty. Never was such a willing slave to that abstract virtue. His incli-
nations impcll him home, the fascinations of which require the sternest
resolution to resist. With every foot of new ground he travelled over
he forged a chain of sympathy which should hereafter bind the Christian
nations in bonds of love and charity to the heathen of the African Tropics.
If we were able to complete this chain of love by actual discovery, and,
by a description of them, to embody such peopie and nations as still live
in darkness, so as to attract the good and charitable of his own land to
bestir themsd,ves for their redemption and salvation, this Livingstone
would consider an ample reward.

'* Surely, as the sun shines on both Christian and infidel, civilized and
pagan, the day of enlightenment will come ; and though the apostle of
Africa may not behold it himself, nor we younger men, nor yet our chil-
dren, the hereafter will see it, and posterity will recognize the daring
pioneer of its civilization."

Yes, and Stanley might have added : with his enlarged and far-seeing
mind, this is what encourages Livingstone to persevere in his task to do
what he knows no other man can do as well. It might be far plcasanter
to tell crowded congregations at home about the wrongs of the sons and
daughters of Africa; but, with the spirit of a true apostle, he remains
among those whose wrongs it is the ardent desire of his soul to right,
that he may win their love and confidence, and open up the way by which
others may with greater ease continue the task he has commenced.

i-iM

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CHAPTER XV.
LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY.

Stanley and Livingstone at Ujui— Cruise on Lake Tanganyika — Giants of African
Discovery— Meeting Enemies Upon the Shores — Geographers wlio Never Travel
—Dusky Forms Dodging From Rock to Rock— Muuntains Seven Thousand Feet
High - Important Discovery— Livingstone's Desperate Resolve— Stanley Leaves
for Zanzibar— Affecting Parting Between the Two Great Explorers— Living-
stone's Intended Route — Later Search Expeditions — Livingstone's Sad and
Romantic History — Timely Arrival of Reinforcements from Stanley— Start for
the Southwest at Last Made — Without Food for Eight Days— Westward Once
More— Continued Plunging In and Out of Morasses— Turbid Rivers and Miry
Swamps— Natives Afraid of the White Man -Extract from the *' Last Journals"—
Crossing the Chambeze — Gigantic Difficulties Encountered— Livingstone Again
Very 111— " Pale, Bloodless and Weak from Profuse Bleedi.:g "—Rotten Tents
Torn to Shreds — The Last Service— Livingstone Carried on a Litter — ^The Doctor
Falls from His Donkey— A Night's Rest in a Hui — Natives Gather Round the
Litter— A Well known Chief Meets the Caravan — The Last Words Livingstone
Ever Wrote- The Dying Hero Slowly Carried by Faithful Attendants— The Last
Stage— Drowsiness and Insensibility — Lying Under the Broad Eaves of a Native
Hut — The Final Resting Place— Livingstone's Dying Words— The World's Great
Hero Dead — Sorrowful Procession to the Coast— Body Transported to England-
Funeral in Westminster Abbey — Crowds of Mourners and Eloquent Eulogies-
Inscription on the Casket.

q^ 'IVE days later, when much intensely interesting information had been
TV exchanged between the two heroes of travel, the trip to the north of
Tanganyika was commenced. Embarking at Ujiji, with a few picked
followers, the explorers cruised up the eastern cost, halting at different
villages for the night, and on the 29th November reached, at the very
head of the lake, the mouth of the Rusizi river, respecting the course of
which great doubt had hitherto been entertained, some geographers sup-
posing it to flow Z///0 and others out of the lake. In the latter case Tan-
ganyika might possibly empty its waters through it into the Albert
Nyanza of Haker, and H\e supposition that the two lakes were connected
would receive confirmation.

, It will be seen by the observant reader that the reason why such her-
culean efforts have hQ^^vi made to ascertain the existence and dimensions
of the great inland lakes of Africa, was to discover, if possible, the real
sources of the Nile, concerning which the world has been for centur'es in
ignorance. Tr olve the wonderful secret, explorations have been made
1332)

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY.

333

that embody the most thrilling achievements, and the most heroic
deeds.

Such giants of African discovery as David LivingsLone, Speke and
Burton, Stanley and Cameron, seized on Lake Tanganyika with a power-
ful grip, and in spite of all its slippery wriggling, did not loosen their
hold until it had yielded up its secrets. Tanganyika, like the Albert
Nyanza, is an enormous "trough" or crevasse, sunk far below the level
of the high table-land which occupies the whole centre of Africa from
the Abyssinian mountains on the east to the Cameroons on the west
coast, and terminating towards the south only with Table Mountain.
Though its shores are not, perhaps, generally so steep as those of other
lakes, the surrounding mountain walls are as high. Its length is great'^r
than any of the others, being little short of five hundred miles. Its
waters are very deep, and sweet to the taste, proving almost conclusively
that it must have an outlet somewhere ; for lakes which have no means
of draining away their waters, and sustain themselves by a balance of
inflow and evaporation, are salt or brackish. But wjiile the Albert is
undoubtedly part of the Nile basin, to what great river does Tanganyika
present its surplus?

** The Enemv Rushed Out Howling^ Furiously."

The first notion was that it was a far outlying branch of ancient Nilus.
Arm-chair geographers constructed a rerfiarkable lake, in shape like a
Highland bagpipe. The swollen " bag " represented a shadow of the
Victoria Nyanza, drawn from native report, and it was joined to the long
" chanter " of Tanganyika as actually seen by Burton's party. Living-
stone was strongly convinced that the outlet of the lake would be found
at the extreme northern end, and that its waters went to reinforce the
Nile. Seeing, however, is believing ; and from Ujiji he set out in com-
pany with Stanley to discover the " connecting link." The voyage was
not without its dangers and excitements. The dwellers on the lake
shores showed themselves several times to be hostile. At one place they
shouted to the boatmen to land, and rushed along the shore, slinging
stones at the strangers, on'; of the missiles actually striking the craft.

When night fell, and the crew disembarked to cook their supper and
to sleep under the lee of a high crag, the natives came crowding around,
telling them with a show of much friendliness to rest securely, as no one
would harm them. The doctor was too old a bird to be caught by such
chaff. The baggage was stowed on board, ready for a start, and a strict
watch was kept. Well into the night, dusky forms were noticed dodging
from rock to rock, and creeping up towards the fires ; so, gettmg quietly on

?'■ f

334

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

) ^

hiw.

! .' *

board, the party pulled out into the lake, and the skulkinjj enemy rushed
out upon the strand, howling furiously at bein<j balked of their prey.

Iinportaiit Discovery.

The first geographical surprise was met with a little beyond the turn-
ing-point of Hurton and Speke. These latter investigators coasted tlic
lake until, as they thought, they saw its two bounding ranges meet, and
there they drew the extremity of Tanganyika, and returned. This aij-
pearance, however, was found by Livingstone and Stanley to be caused
by a high promontory which juts out from the western shore overlap-
ping the mountains on the east. Beyond this narrow strait Tanganyika
again opens up, and stretches on for sixty miles further, overhung by
mountains ris.ng to a height of seven thousand feet above sea-level, and
some four thousand three hundred feet above the surface of the lake.
At last the actual extremity of the long trough-like body of water came
in view.

As the voyagers approached it, they only became more puzzled as to
what they should find. Two days' sail from their destination they were
positively assured by the natives that the water flowed out of Tanganyika.
Even when the limits of open water were reached in a broad marshy flat
covered by aquatic plants, it was not easy to answer the question which
the travellers had come all this long way to solve. Seven broad inlets
were seen penetrating the bed of reeds. In none of them could any
current be discovered. Entering the centre channel in a canoe, however,
and pulling on for some distance past sedgy islands and between walls of
papyrus, disturbing with every stroke of the paddles some of tiie sleep-
ing crocodiles that throng in hundreds in this marsh, all doubt as to the
course of the Rusizi was soon removed. A strange current of discolored
water was met pouring down from the high grounds, and further exami-
nation showed that the stream had other channels losing themselves in
the swamp, or finding their way mto one or other of the inlets at the head
of the lake.

A Desperate Resolve.

Their work in connection with the Rusizi done, our heroes returned to
Ujiji, this time skirting along the western shores of the lake, and cross
ing it near a large island called Muzumi. Back again at Ujiji on the
15th December, Stanley did all in his power to persuade Livingstone
to return home with him and recruit his strength; but the only answer
he could obtain was, *' Not till my work is done." In this resolution
Livingstone tells us in his journal he was confirmed by a letter from his
daughter Agnes, in which she said — "Much as I wish you to come

ny rushed
prey. -

the turn-
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This ap-
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336

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

home, I would rather you finished your work to your own satisfaction
than to return merely to gratify me." " I must complete the exploration
of the Nile sources before I retire," says the devoted hero in another
portion of his notes, little dreaming that he was all the time working not
at them, but at those of the Congo.

• It was arranged, however, that Livingstone should accompany Stanley
on his return journey as far as Unyanyembe, to fetch the goods there
stored up for his use, and the start for the east was made late in Decem-
ber, 1 87 1. Making a roundabout trip to the south to avoid the war still
going on, the party reached Unyanyembe in February, 1872, after a good
deal of suffering on Stanley's part from fever, and on Livingstone's from
sore feet. .

In March, after giving all the stores he could spare to Livingstone,
Stanley left for Zanzibar, accompanied for the first day's march by the

veteran hero.

The liast Conversation.

Livingstone gave the earlier portion of the precious journal from
which our narrative has been culled into the care of the young Ameri-
can, and as they walked side by side, putting off the evil moment of
parting as long as possible, the following interesting conversation, the
last held by Livingstone in his own language, took place : —

"Doctor," began Stanley, "so far as I can understand it, you do not
intend to return home until you have satisfied yourself about the
' Sources of the Nile.' When you have satisfied yourcelf, you will come
home and satisfy others. Is it not so?"

•• That is it exactly. When your men come back " (Stanley was to
hire men at Zanzibar to accompany Livingstone in his further journey)
"I shall immediately start for Ufipa " (on the south-eastern shores of
Lake Tanganyika) ; " then I shall strike south, and round the extremity
of Lake Tanganyika. Then a south-east course will take me to Chik-
umbi's, on the Lualaba. On crossing th6 Lualaba, I shall go direct
south-west to the copper mines of Katanga. Eight days south of Kat-
anga the natives declare the fountains to be. When I have found them,
I shall return by Katanga to the underground houses of Rua. From the
caverns, ten days north-east will take me to Lake Komolondo. I shall
be able to travel from the lake in your boat, up the river Lufira, to Lake
Lincoln Then, coming down again, I can proceed north by the
Lualaba to the fourth lake — which will, I think, explain the whole
problem."

" And how long do you think this little journey will take you ?"

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY.

337

" A year and a-half at the furthest from the day I leave Unyanyembe."

"S ippose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know,
it will be well for me to hire these new men for two years, the day of
their engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
I '■ Yes, that will do excellently well."

The Final Parting.

" Now, my dear doctor, the best of friends must part. You have come
far enough ; let me beg of you to turn back."

" Well, I will say this to you, you have done what few men could do —
far better than some great travellers I know, and I am grateful to you for
what you have done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you,
my friend."

" And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend. Fare-
well,"

A few more words of good wishes on either side, another and yet
another clasp of the hand, and the two heroes parted, Stanley hurrying
back with all possible speed to Zanzibar to despatch men and stores for
the doctor to Unyanyemb'^, Livingstone to return to that town to await
the means of beginning yet another journey to the west.

It has long been well known that Stanley found th- Royal Geographi-
cal Society's Livingstone Search Expedition at Eagamoyo, and that its
leader. Lieutenant Dawson, threw up his command on hearing of the
success of his predecessor. With the aid of Mr. Oswell Livingstone, the
son of the great explorer, the young American, however, quickly organ-
ized a caravan, and saw it start for the interior on the 17th May.
Somewhat later, the Royal Geographical Society sent out another
exploring party, led by Lieutenant Grandy, with orders to ascend the
Congo, to complete the survey of tha.t stream, and at the same time to
convey succor and comfort to the great traveller, who geographers
already began to suspect was upon the upper waters of the Congo, and not
of the Nile; but this last expedition utterly failed of success.

Livingstone's I^ast Letter.

Not until long afterwards was the true sequel of Livingstone's sad and
romantic history known in England. In his last letter, one to Mr. Well,
Acting American Consul at Zanzibar, dated from Unyanyembe, July 2d,
1872, he says, "I have been waiting up here like Sin^eon Sylites on his
pillar, and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our
friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness might lay
him up, no accident befall, and no unlooked-for combinations of circum-
stances render his kind intentions rain or fruitless."

l^r?^' ■(

338

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The remainder of our narrative is culled from the latter part of Livincr-
stone's journal, brought to Zanzibar with his dead body by his men, and
from the accounts of his faithful followers Susi and Chumah, as given in
"Livingstone's Last Journals," edited by Dr. Horace Waller. From
these combined sources, we learn that in June, just four months after the
departure of Stanley, Sangara, one of his men, arrived at Unyanyembe
with the news that the new caravan was at Ugogo, and that on the K;tli
August in the same year the men actually arrived.

Livingstone's servants now numbered some sixty in all, and included
the well-known John and Jacob Wainwright ; two highly-trained Nassick
men, sent from Bombay to vn I' tte "^ant Dawson, vho, with their
fellow- countrymen M^bruki .am <? rduer, enlisted in l866; and Susi,
Chumah, and Amoda, three of the oicif who joined Livingstone on the
Zambesi in 1864, and now former a kin ; *" body-guard, protecting their
master in every peril in life, and guarding his body in death with equally
untiring devotion.

Without Food Eight Days.

On the 25th August, 1872, the start for the south-west was at last
made, and after daily records in the journal of arduous ascents of moun-
tains, weary tramps through flat forests, difficulties in obtaining food, in
controlling men, etc., we come on the 19th September to a significant
entry, to the effect that our hero's old enemy, dysentery, was upon him.
He had eaten nothing for eight days, yet he pressed on without pause
until the 8th October, when he .nighted the eastern shores of Tangan-
yika. Then ensued a halt of a couple of days, when, turning due south,
the course led first along a range of hills overlooking the lake, and then
across several bays in the mountainous district of Fipa, till late in Octo-
ber a very large arm of Tanganyika was rounded. The lake was then
left, and a detour made to the east, bringing the party in November to
the important town known as Zombe's, built in such a manner that the
river Halocheche, on its way to Tanganyika, runs right through it.

At Zombe's a western course was resumed, and passing on through
heavy rains, and over first one and then another tributary of the lake, our
hero turned southwards, a little beyond the most southerly point of Tan-
ganyika, to press on in the same direction, though again suffering terri-
bly from dysentery, until November, when he once more set his face
westwards, arriving in December on the banks of the Kalongosi river, a
little to the east of the point at which he had sighted it on his flight
northwards with the Arabs.

In December what may be called the direct march to Lake Bangweolo

LIVINGSTOXE'S LAST JOURNEY.

339

866; and Susi

was commenced, the difficulties of travelling now greatly aggravated by
the continuous rain which had filled to overflowing the sponges, as
Livingstone calls the damp and porous districts through which he had to
pass. To quote fiom Dr. Waller's notes, "our hero's men speak of the
niarr i from this point" (the village of Mocnje, left on the 9th January,
1873 'as one continued plunge in and out of morass, and through rivers
w.iich were only distinguishable from '.he surrounding wa'.crs by their
(lee; curret-'ts and the necessity of using canoes. To a man reduced in
strc ij-th, and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms," adds Dr.
Waller, "the effcf m.ty well be conceived. It is probable that, had Dr.
Livingstone been at the head of a hundred picked Europeans, every man
of them would have been down in a fortnight."

Under these circumstances we cannot too greatly admire the pluck of
Livingstone's little body of men, for it must not be forgotten *'iat Afri-
cans have an intense horror of wet, and that those from the c. >^st iffer
almost as much as white men from the climate of the interior

Following the route, we find that he crossed no less ^'lai' thirteen
rivulets in rapid succession — more, in fact, than one a-r'ay. J • jimuary
he notes that he is troubled for want of canoes, they bei? o- now intlis-
pe.. sable to further progress, and that he is once more ncv : i'tie Cham-
be/.c, the river which he had crossed far away on the north-east just
before the loss of his medicine-chest and the beginning of his serious
troubles,

Wadin^jf Through Water Neck-Deep.

No canoes were, however, forthcoming ; the nativei were afraid of the
white man, and would give him no help either with guides or boats.
Nothing daunted even then; though his illness was growing upon him to
such an extent that the entries in his journal are often barely legible, he
pressed on, now wading through the water, now carried on the shoulders
of one or another of his men.

The following extract fi. m the Journal, dated January 24th, will serve
to give some notion of the kind of work done in the last few stages of
this terrible journey : — " Went on cast and north-east to avoid the deep part
of a large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
would certainly hide them. Went an hour-and-three-quarters' journey
to a large stream through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water
amongst sedges and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for
fifty yards, and the water was cold. We plunged in elephants' foot-
prints one and a-half hours, then came in one hour to a small rivulet ten
feet broad, but waist deep, bridge covered and broken down.

; 3

s^^rhr^

: i

340

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

" Carrying mc across one of the deep sedgy rivers is really a very
difficult task ; one we crossed was at least i.ooo feet broad, or more than
300 yards. The first part the main stream came up to Susi's mouth.
One held up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and
when he sank into a deep elephant's footprint he required two to lift him
so as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
went on and bent down the grass so as to insure some footing on the side
of the elephant's path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants.

" It took us a full hour and a half for all to cross over. We had to
hasten on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
threatened us. At four in the afternoon it came on pouring cold rain,
when we were all under cover. We are anxious about food. The lake is
near, but we are not sure of provisions. Our progress is distressingly
slow. Wet, wet, wet, sloppy weather truly, and no ob.servations, except
that the land near the lake being very level, the rivers spread out into
broad friths and sponges."

Across the Cliambeze at Last!

Thus wet, sick, and weary, often short of food and doubtfui of his way
the indomitable hero still struggled on, his courage sustained by hi.s
hope of yet reaching the Chambeze, rounding the lake, and passing the
confluence of the Lualaba on the west ; his hea^rt cheered by the ever-
increasing love of his men, especially of the seven already mentioned,
who vied with each other in their eagerness to carry their dear master,
to build the tent for his reception, to save for him the best of the provi-
sions they were able to procure.

The whole of February and the, first half of the ensuitig month were
consumed in wandering backwards and forwards amongst the swamps of
the north-east shores of Bangweolo, but about the 20th March the
camp was at last pitched on the left bank of the Chambeze, close to its
entry of the lake, and the question of its connection with the Lualaba
was to some extent solved. Late in March canoes were actually obtained.
and, embarking in them, our explorer and his men paddled across the
intervening swamps to the Chambeze, crossed a river flowing into it, and
then the main stream itself, losing one slave girl by drowning in the
process.

Preparations were made for a further " land," or we wot!)d rather say
wading journey, for though all the canoes, except a few reserved for the
luggage, were left behind, the water was not. All went fairly well, how-

LIVING^ONES LAST JOURNEY.

341

ever, in spite of the j^i^antic diflFiculties encountered, until the loth

April, when, about midway in the journey along the western bank of the

lake, Livingstone succumbed to a severe attack of his complaint, which

left him, to quote his own words, " pale, bloodless, and weak from pro

use bleeding."

Carried in a Litter.

Surely now he would pause and turn back, that he might at La 4
reach home to die! But no! he allowed himself but two days' rest, and
then, staggering to his feet, though he owns he could hardly walk, he
"tottered along nearly two hours, and then lay down, quite done.
Cooked coffee," he adds — "our last — and went on, but in an hour I was
comi)clled to lie down."

Unwilling even then to be carried, he yielded at last to the expostula-
tions of his men, and, reclining in a kind of litter suspended on a pole,
he was gently borne along to the village of Chinama, ami there, "in a
garden of durra," the camp was pitched for the night. Beyond on the
east stretched "interminable grassy prairies, with lines of trees occupying
quarters of miles in breadth." On the west lay the lake connected with so
many perils, but which Livingstone even yet hoped to round completely.

Our hero was ferried over the Lolotikila, was carried over land for a
short distance to the south-west, the Lombatwa river was crossed, and,
after a " tremendous rain, which burst all the now rotten tents to shreds,"
three sponges were crossed in rapid succession. Two days later Living-
stone rallied sufficiently to mount a donkey, which, strange to say, had
survived all the dangers of the journey from Unyanyembe, and came in
sight of the Lavusi hills — a relief to the eye, he tells us, after all the flat

upland traversed.

The Last Service.

On Uie 20th April, which fell oii a Sunday, the exhausted explorer
held the last service with his men, crossed over a sponge to the village (;f
a man named Moanzambanba, the head-man of these parts, noted in Ins
journal that he felt excessively weak, and crossed the river Lokulu or
Molikulu in a canoe. Next day the dnly words Livingstone was able to
set down were, " Tried to ride, but was forced to lie down, and they carricc^
me back to vil. exhausted."

To quote from Dr. Waller, Livingstone's men explained this etiti »
thus : — " This morning the doctor tried if he were strong enough to ride o *.
thedonkey,but he had only gone a short distance when he fell to the ground
utterly exhausted and faint." Susi then unfastened his master's belt and
pistol, and picked up his cap, which had fallen to the ground, whilst

a4'i

WONDERS OF THE TUfePICS.

>:0(-

Chumah ran on to stop the men in f.ont. When he came back he said,
•• Cluimah, I have lost so much blood there is no more strength left in my
legs ; you must carry me." He was then lifted on to Chumah's back,
and carried back to the village he had just left, but insisted on going on
again the next day, though his men saw that he was sinking and began
to fear he would not rally again.

A litter was made of "two side pieces of wood seven feet in length,

AFRICAN HOUSES WITH THATCHED ROOFS.

crossed with rails three feet long and about four inches apart, the whole
lashed strongly together." Grass was spread over this rough bed, and a
blanket laid over it. It was then slung from a pole, Livingstone was laid
upon it, and two of his men carried him across a flooded grass plain to
the next village, which was reached in about two hours and a half, the
illustrious traveller suffering severely.

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY.

343

Here a hut was built, and Livingstone rested for the night, if we can
speak of rest when he was ciduring the most terrible pain. On the 23d
April th- melancholy march was resumed, though our hero was too
ill to ma' e any entry but the date in his journal. His men report that
licy passed over just such a flooded treeless waste as on the previous da)-,
,.-ing many small " fish-weirs set in such a manner as to catch the fish
on tneir way back td the lake," but not a sign was to be seen of the inhab-
itants of the country, who appear to have a great horror of the white
man's caravan.

Next day only one hour's march was accomplished, and a halt was
made amongst some deserted huts. The doctor's suffering on this day
was very great, and he once nearly fell out of the kitanda or litter, but
was saved by Chumah.

The day following an hoar's journey brought the party to a village
containing a few people on the south of the lake , the doctor's litter was
set down in a shady place, and a few of the natives were persuaded to
draw near and enter into conversation with him. They were asked
whether they knew of a hill from which flowed four rivers, and their
spokesman answered that they knew nothing about it, for they were not
travellers. All who used to go on trading expeditions, he added, were
dead. Once Wabisa traders used to assemble in one of their villages,
but the terrible Mazitu had come and swept them all away. The sur-
vivors had to live as best they could amongst the swamps around the
lake.

Unfortunately, the conversation had not continued long before the
doctor was too ill to go on talking, and he dismissed his visitors, with a
request that they would send him as much food as they could spare to
Kalunganj ova's town on the west, which was to be the next stopping-
place.

As the litter was being carried from Kalunganjova, the chief himself
came out to meet the caravan, and escorted our hero into his settlement,
situated on the banks of a stream called the Lulimala. Here, on the
next day, April 27th, ^ S73, Livingstone, who for the three previous days
had made no entry but the date in his journal, wrote his last words in
characters scarcely legible : — " Knocked up quite, and remain — recover
—sent to buy milch goats. We are on the banks of the MoHkmo," in
reality the same river as that given as the Lulimala in Livingstone's map,
his men confirming the latter pronunciation.

On the next day, Livingstone being now in an almost dying stale, his
men went off in various directions to try and obtain milch go^^ts, but

:» ■ !

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344

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

with no good results. Kalunganjova came to visit his p^uest and to offer
every assistance in Ms power, promising to try and obtain canoes for
crossing of the river — indeed to go himself with the caravan to the ferry,
which was about an hour's march from the spot. '* Everything," he said,
" should be done for his friend." But alas I this eager readiness to help,
which would have been of incalculable service a few weeks before, was
too late to be of any real use now.

When all was ready for the start, and Susi went to tell Livingstone it
was time for him to enter the litter, the doctor said he was too ill to walk
to it, and the door of his hut being too narrow to admit of its passage to
his bedside, the wall had to be broken down. When this was done, the
litter was placed by the bedside, the dying hero was gently lifted on to it,
and slowly and sadly borne out of the village.

Life Fast Ebbing Away.

Following the course of the Lulimala till they came to a reach where
the current was interrupted by numerous little islands, the party found
Kalunganjova awaiting them on a little knoll, and under his superintenci-
enc(^ the embarkation proceeded rapidly, whilst Livingstone, who was to
be taken over when the rough work was done, rested on his litter in a
shady place.

The canoes not being wide enough to admit of the litter being laid in
any one of them, it was now a difficult question how best to get tiic
doctor across. Taking his bed off his litter, the men placed it in tlie
strongest canoe and tried to lift him on to it, but he " could not bear the
pain of a hand being placed under his back." Making a sign to Chumali,
our hero then faintly whispered a request to him " to stoop down over
him as low as possible, so that he might clasp his hands together behind
his head," at the same time begging him " to avoid putting any pressure
on the lumbar region of the back." His wishes were tenderly carried
out, and in this manner he was laid in the canoe, ferried over as rapidly
as possibly, and once more placed in his litter on the other side.

Susi now hastened on with several servants to the next village, the now

celebrated Chitanibo's, to superintend the building of a house for the

reception of his beloved master, the rest of the party following more

slowly, and bearing their precious charge" through swamps and plashes,"

till they came, to their great relief, to something " like a dry plain a

last."

Tlic Last Sta^^e.

The strength of the great explorer was now ebbing rapidly away.
Chumah, who helped to carry him on this the very last stage of his jour-

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY.

345

ney, says that he and his comradtis were every now and then " implored
to stop and place their burden on the ground." Sometimes a drowsiness
Gome over the sufferer, and he seemed insensible to all that was goin<j
on ; sometimes he suffered terribly for want of water, of which, now that

CONVEYING LlVlN(iSTONES BODY TO THK COAST.

it was so sorely needed, not a drop could be obtained, until, fortunately;
they met a member of their party returning from Chitambo's, with a
supply thoughtfully sent off by Susi.

A little later, a clearing was reached, and Livingstone again begged to
be set down and left alone, but at that very moment the first huts of Chit*

If I

U li

f ^"'■SS' -l. «fi. -s. « t

346

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ambo's village came in sight, and his bearers begged him to fendure yet
a little lonijjr, that they might place him under shelter.

Arrived at last at Chitambo's, the party found the house their fellow-
servants were building still unfinished, and were therefore compelled to
lay their master " under the broad eaves of a native hut " for a time.
Though the village was then nearly empty, a number of natives soon col-
lected about the litter, to gaze *' in silent wonder upon him whose praises
had reached them in previous years."

When the house was ready, our hero's bed was placed inside it, " raised
from the floor by sticks and grass ; " bales and boxes, one of the latter
serving as a table, were arranged at one end ; a fire was lighted outside,
nearly opposite the door ; and Livingstone was tenderly and reverently
carried from his temporary resting-place to that which was to be his last.
A «boy named Majwara was appointed to sleep inside the house, to
attend to the patient's wants.

The Great Hero's Last Words.

Chitambo came early in the morning to pay his respects to his guest,
but Livingstone was too ill to attend to him, and begged him "to call
again on the morrow, when he hoped to have more strength to talk to
him." In the afternoon the doctor asked Susi to bring him his watch,
and showed him how to hold it in the palm of his hand, whilst he himself
moved the key. The rest of the day passed without incident, and in the
evening the men not on duty silently repaired to their huts, whilst those
whose turn it was to watch sat round their fires, waiting for the end
which they felt to be rapidly approaching.

At about 1 1 P. M. Livingstone sent for Susi, and loud shouts bcin;^ at
the moment heard in the distance, said to him, "Are our men making'
that noise?"

" No," replied Susi, adding that he believed it was only the natives
scaring away a buffalo from their durra fields. A (cw minutes later,
Livingstone said slowly, "Is this the Lualaba?" his mind evidently
wandering to the great river wliich had so long been the object of his
search. " No," said Susi, "we are in Chitambj's village, near tie Luli-
mala."

A long silence ensued, and then the doctor said in Suaheli, an Arab
dialect, " How many days is it to the Lualaba ? " and Susi answered in the
same language, " I think it is three days, master."

A few seconds later, Livingstone exclaimed, " Oh dear 1 oh dear ! " as
if in terrible suffering, and then fell asleep. Susi, who then left his
master to his repose, was recalled in about an hour by V^ajwara, and ou

LIVINGSTON ES LiiST JOURNEY.

347

reaching the doctor's bedside received instructions to boil seme water,
for which purpose he went to thj fire outside to fill his kettle. On his
return, Livingstone told him to bring his medicine-chest and to hold the
candle nuar him. These instructions being obeyed, he took out a bottle
of calomel, told Susi to put it, an empty cup, and on^ with a little water
in it, within reach of his hind, and then added in a very low voice, "All
right; you can go out now."

This was the last sentence ever spoken by Livingstone in human hear-
ing. At about 4 A. M. Majwara came once more to call Susi, saying,
' Come to Bwana (his name for Livingstone) ; I am afraid. I don't know
if he is alive."

A Martyr to a Great Cause.

Susi, noticing the boy's terror, and fear'ng the worst, now aroused five
of his comrades, and with them entered the doctor's hut, to find the great
explorer kneeling, as if in prayer, by the side of his bed, " his head
buried in his hands upon thj pillow."

" For a minute," .says Dr. Waller, *' they watched him ; he did not stir;
there was no sign of b eathing ; then one of them advanced softly to him
and placed his h.nuls to his cheeks." It was enough ; Livingstone was
(load. He had probably expired soon after Susi left him, dying as he had
lived, in quiet uno-itcntatious reliance upon his divine Father. " History,"
says Bimning, one (»f the members of the Brussels Conference, " contains
few pages more touching, or of .' more sublime character, than the simple
narrative of this silenr and solitary death of a great man, the martyr to a
iircat cause."

Thus ended the career of the greatest hero of modern geographical
discovery, and of one of the noblest- hearted philanthr.pists of the present
century. Very .sadly, very tenderly, very reverently Livingstone's .ser-
vants laid the corpse of their beloved master on his bed, and retired to
consult soLjether round their watch-fire as to wiiat should ne.xt be done.

The following day it was unanimously decided that Susi and Chumah,
who were "old men in travelling and in hardshiji," should act as captains
of the caravan, the other men engaged promising faithfully to obey
them.

All agreed further that the body of Livingstone mu.st be preserved
ii>d car.icd back to Zanzibar. With the ready co operation of Chitainbo,
a strong hut, open to the air at the top, was built for the ^performance of
the last melancholy offices.

A native mourner was engaged to sing the usual dirge before the com-
mencement of the post-mortem examination. Wearing the anklets

h £

m,i '■

1 1 ri ugi *ia^iii,Mi,

348

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

proper to the occasion, "composed of rows of hollow seed-vessels, he

sang the following chant, dancing all the while —

" To day the Englishman is dead,
Who has different hair from ours ;
Come round to see the Englishman "

After this concession to the customs of the people amongst whom the)
found themselves, Livingstone's faithful servants carried his remains to
the hut prepared for them, where Jacob Wainwright read the burial ser-
vice in the presence of all his comrades. The great hero's heart was
removed and buried in a tin a little distance from the hut, and the body
was "left to be full)' exposed to the sun. No other means were taken to
preserve it beyond placing some brandy in the mouth, and some on the
hair."

At the end of fourteen days, the body, thus simply '* embalmed," was
" wrapped round in some calico, the legs being bent inwards at the knees
to shorten the package," which was placed in a cylinder ingeniously con-
structed out of the bark of a tree. Over the whole apiece of sail-cloth
was sewn, and the strange coflfin was then securely lashed to a stron<f
pole, so that it could be carried by the men in the manner figured in our
illustration.

Procession to the Coast.

Under the superintendence of Jacob Wainwright, an inscripftion was
carved on a large tree near the place where the body was exposed, giv-
ing the name of the deceased hero and the dnte of his death. Chitambo
promised to guard this memorial as a sacred charge, and the melancholy
procession started on the return journey.

Completing the circuit of Bangweolo, the men crossed the Lualaba
near its entry into the lake on the west, thus supplementing their mas-
ter's work, and, turning eastward beyond the great river which had so
long been the goal of his efforts, they made for^ the route he had fol-
lowed on his trip to the south in 1868. A short halt at Caseinbe's was
succeeded by an uneventful trip eastwards to Lake Tanganyika, round-
ing the southern extremity of which the funeral procession rapidly made
!ts way in a north-easterly direction to Unyanyembe, where it arrived in
the middle of October, 1873.

Here Lieu^;nant Cameron, the leader, and Dr. Dillon and Lientenarl
Murphy, members uf i nesv Livingstone Relief Expedition sent out by
the Royal Geograpiii .ixl Society, were resting before starting westwards.

After the sac nv'-v.^
•Jiem and coui'iv

ji ynn loctor'.'i df.ilh had been communicated to
by indisputable evidence, Cameron did all in his

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST. JOURNEY.

349

power to help and relieve the brave fellows who had brought the hero's
dead dody and all belonging to him thus far in safety. Then, Ending
them unwilling to surrender their charge before reaching the coast
although he himself thought that Livingstone might have wished to be
buried in the same land as his wife, he allowed them to proceed, Dr. Dil-
lon and Lieutenant Murphy accompanying them.

Soon after the march to the coast began, Dr. Dillon, rendered deli-
rious by his sufferings from fever and dysentery, shot himself in his tent,
but Susi, Chumah, and their comrades arrived safely at Bagamoyo in
February, 1874, where they delivered up their beloved master's remains
to the Acting Knglish Consul, Captain Prideaux, under whose care they
were conveyed to Zanzibar in one of Her Majesty's cruisers, thence to He
sent to England on board the Malwa, for interment in Westminster
Abbey.

To describe the stately funeral which was accorded to the simple-
hearted hero in old Westminster Abbey would be beyond our province,
but none who read the glowing newspaper accounts of the long proces-
sion, the crowds of mourners, and the orations in honor of the deceased,
can fail to have been touched by the contrast they offered to his lonely
death in the wilderness, untended by any but the poor natives whose
affections he had won by his gentleness and patience in the hardships
and privations they had endured together, and to whom alone England
is indebted for the privilege of numbering his grave amongst her sacred
national possessions.

The remains of the great African Explorer were laid to rest in West-
minster Abbey on the 18th of April. The casket bore the inscription—

DAVID LfVINGSTONE,

Born at Blantyre, Lanarkshire, Scotland,

19 March, 1813,

Died at Ilala, Central Africa,

4 Mav, 1873.

iil

, *' ■

■f

> . V ^

^ i. :1

I. I

CHAPTER XVI.
STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

itanley's Absorbing Interest in Livingstone's Explorations— His Resolve lo Find ?
Path from Sea to Sea — A Man of Remarkable Enterprise— Determined to Accom-
plish His Object at Any Cost — Description of the Congo Region— Once the Most
Famous Kingdom of Africa— A King Glorious in Trinktls — People Prostrating
Themsefves Before Their Monarch— The vyhinis of a Despot — Taxes Levied on
Furniture — Killing Husbands to Get Their Wives — Strange and Savage Cus-
toms-Messengers Collecting Slaves and Ivory— A Nation Famous as Elephant
Hunters and Men Stealers— Worship of a Wicked Deity— Priests with Absohite
Power— Sacred Fire Burning Continually — A Priest so Holy That He Cannot Die
a Natural Death — Test of Red Hot Iron Applied to the Skin— How the Congoese
Disfigure Themselves— Outlandish Dress — Husbands Rebuked for Neglecting to
Beat Tlieir Wives— Pipes and Palm- Wine— A Notorious Queen— Followed by a
Host of Lovers — HorriWe Practices— Slaughter of Male Children — The Queen's
Tragic End— Queen Shmga aud Her Daring Exploits— P^emale Demon— Universal
Polyganiy—Eating Habits of the Congo Tribes— Agonies of Indigestion— Singular
Modes of Salutation — Stanley's Description of Welcoming Strangers — Love for
Titles and Sounding Nanies— How Wiveb Manage Husbands — Famous Old King
of the Gaboon — King William's Principal Wife — A Monarch Arrayed in Scarlet-
Ferocious Tribes — Traders and Their Wares — Stanley's Description of tiie Coun-
try — Superstitions and Paguiiism — Animal Life in Congo— Antelopes, Zebras and
Buffaloes — Beautiful Monkey Tribe — Wild Attack of Cannibals — Immense War
Boat — Everlasting Din of Drums— Horns Carved out of Elephants' Tusks -Wild
War Cry — Singular Temple of Ivory — Horrid Monument of Mud and Skulls.

'py'ENRY M. STANLEY ".as not the man to be indifferent to the
t*JI fate of Livingstone or the objects he had in view. Our young
W hero thought, and the world thought so too, that his mission
was to complete, as far as possible, the marvellous discoveries
wh'fh Livingstone had attempted to make. If his life had been spared
he would hive crowned all previous successes with triumphs greater
still. Stanley having been once in the wild.s of Africa, and having learned
by actual observation the great fertility of the soil, the channels of com-
merce which might be opened, the impoi tance of bringing the country
into close relations with other parts of the world, the moral needs of the
savage races whose history has been lost in oblivion and whose future it is
impossible as yet to determine, thought he would discover, if possible,
the sources of the Nile, open new avenues in a land almo.st unknown,
and, having found Livingstone, the lost explorer, he resolved to find a
path from sea to sea. *

(850)

STANLEY AND THE CC TGO.

351

In this marvellous undertaking we are now to trace him. He is the
same strong, heroic soul that he was on his first expedition ; the same
enterprising man, possessed of the same iron will, the same abounding
energy and p:rrseverance, the same tact in dealing with hostile tribes, and
the same unswerving resolution to accomplish his object at any cost.

Before w'c begin his journey, it will be interesting to the reader to have
^ome account of the Congo region through which Stanley passed, and also
a description of the Congoese, the people dwelling in that part of Africa.

At one time there was no more famous kingdom in all Africa than that
of Congo. It was established on even a grander scale than the modern
Ashanti or Dahomey, which have sprung up within the last 200 years,
during which the empire of Congo has been broken up into many petty
chieftaincies. The writings of the old Jesuit and Capuchin Fathers teem
with tales of its grandeur.

When the king was elected he came out of the palace, glorious in
trinkets, to give the benediction to his people, assembled from far and
near in the palace square, for this important event. The priests and
nobles arranged themselves around him. The king exhorted the people
to be faithful and obedient, and, after the manner of monarchs generally,
assured his subjects of his profound consideration. " 1 1? rises, and all
the people prostrate themselves before him. He stretclies his hands over
them, and makes gestures with his fingers without uttering a word."
Shouts of joy, followed by firing of muskets and a "jubilee of banquets,"
close this initiatory event of the Congo monarch's reign.

Whims of a Tyrant.

The king was a despot, secretly controlled by his ministers. His civil
list c jnsisted of tribute paid him by the sub-chiefs or vassal-lords, who in
their turn ground it out of the people. When he found it necessary to
levy a special tax, he would go out of the palace with his cap loosely
placed oh his head. When the wind blew it off, he would rush into the
house as if in a great passion, and iminediately order the levy of goats,
fowls, slaves, and palm-wine. The Negro is a systematic creature in
some things; he does nothing without a reason, and the Congoese
monarch, therefore, considered that he had justified his acts in the eyes
of his subjects by his diii^nity being offended owing to his cap blowing off.

Ont! of the taxes was levied on beds — a slave for every span's breadth
being the rate at which the impost was made. This tax was devoted to
the support of the king's concubines, and as a broad bed entailed consid-
erable expense on its owner, the poi'session of this piece of chamber fur-
niture was in Congo looked upon as the sign of a man of wealth. Writers

• ti

i^B

■Ml f

Ji 1

li I

;r)2

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

describe the Muata-Yanvo — another powerful West African monarch
very little known to literature — as wearing a bracelet of human sinews
on his left wrist, to denote his royal rank. His empire is as large as ali
Germany, and about three hundred chiefs owe him allegiance, thou"li
his subjects do not number more than two millions, and his despotism is
shared and tempered by a queen.

When the king desired a fresh companion, a married woman was
.selected, her husband and the lovers whom she confessed to (for it .seems
they all had them, married or single) being put to death. These little
preliminaries being completed, she entered the royal seraglio, where much
more liberty than would be granted in Mohammedan kingdoms was
allowed to her. On the king's death all his wives were buried with him.

Peculiar Customs.

No man dare see the king eat or drink. All this must be done in
privacy. If a dog even entered the house while tlie auguijt sovereign
was at food it was killed ; and a case is recorded by English authorities
in which the king ordered the execution of his own son, who had acci-
dcntly seen him drink palm-wine.

•The large army supported by the Congoese monarch was officered by
ilicir own chiefs, and apparently fought under a kind of feudal .system.

As in initst parts of Africa, the old Congo kings, before the decay of
the slave trade ruined them, monopolized, as far as they could, the com-
merce of the country. This is still the fashion of the Muata-Yanvo of
the Kanoko Empire, cast of the Congo country. When traders arrive at
the capital, their gooi's are deposited in the capital until the king's mes-
.sengers,who are sent inio the neighboring countries, can collect the slaves
and ivory he is willing to give in exchange.

No stranger is allowed to proceed into these interior' regions, the
inhabitants of which are described as cannibals, or as dwarfs. When Dr.
Ruchncr was at the Muato-VHuv'j's in 1S79 he was threatened by the
Kioko, a nation famous as smiths, elephant hunters, and man stealer?,
who are gradually spreading from the Upper Quango to the northward,
and from the latest accounts are endangering the very existence of this
secluded empire.

The civil judges sat under trees, each having a large stafT in his hand,
as an insignium of ofifice, Incorruptible they were not, but still no one
over appealed against their decisions, and it is said never even com
plained of their injustice ; but this is not in human nature, and must only
mean that no one was ever heard to do so in public, and that for very
special private reasons of his own.

can monarch,
lunian sinews
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STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

363

As in more civilized nations, war is the {^reat parent 0*" taxation, the
king being obliged to maintain a large standing army, ana to keep it in
good humor by constant largesses, for a large standing army is much
like fire — a useful servant, but a terrible master. The army is divided
into regiments, each acting under the immediate command of the chief
{n whose district they live, and they are armed, in a most miscellaneous
fashion, with any weapons they can procure. In these times the trade
runs arc the most valued weapons, but the native swords, bows and
arrows, spears, and knives, still form the staple of their equipment. As
to uniform, they have no idea of it, and do not even distinguish the men
of the different regiments, as do the Kaffirs of Southern Africa.

The ancient religion of the Congo Negro is simply polytheism, which
tiicy have suffered to degenerate into fetishism. There is one monothe-
istic sect, but they have gained very little by their religion, which is in
fact merely a negation of many deities, without the least understanding
of the one whom they profess to worship — a deity to whom they attri'
bate the ^vorst vices that can degrade human nature.

Shrewd Tricks to Get Rid of Uiisbands.

The fetish men or priests are as important here as the marabouts
among the Maiidingoes, and the chief of them, who goes by the name
of Chitome, is scarcely less honored than the king, who finds himself
obliged to seek the favor of this spiritual potentate, while the common
people look on him as scarcely less than a god. He is maintained by a
sort of tithe, consisting of the first-fruits of the harvest, which are
brought to him with great ceremony, and are offered with solemn chants.
The Congo men fully believe that if they were to omit the first-fruits of
one year's harvest, the next year would be an unproductive one.

A sacred fire burns continually in his house, and the embers, which are
supposed to be possessed of great medicinal virtues, are sold by him at a
high price, so that even his fire is a constant source of income to him.
Me has the entire regulation of the minor priests, and every now and
then makes a progress among them to settle the disputes which contin-
ually spring up. As soon as he leaves his house, the husbands and wives
Jiroughout the kingdom are obliged to separate under pain of death. In
case of disobedience, the man only is punished, and cases have been
known where wives who disliked their husbands have accused them of
breaking this strange law, and have thereby gained a double advantage,
freed themselves from a man whom they did not like, and established a
religious reputation on easy terms.

In fact, the Chitome has things entirely his own way, with one excep-

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354

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

tion. He is so holy that he cannot die a natural death, for if he did so
the universe would immediately be dissolved. Consequently, as soon as
he is seized with a dangerous illness, the Chitome elect calls at his house,
and saves the universe by knocking out his brains with a club, or strano-.
ling him with a cord if he should prefer it. That his own death must be
of a similar character has no effect upon the new Chitome, who, true to
the Negro character, thinks only of the present time, and, so far as beinfr
anxious about the evils that will happen at some future time, does no'
trouble himself even about the next day.

Next to the Chitome comes the Nghombo, a priest who is distin-
guished by his peculiar gait. His dignity would be impaired by walking
like ordinary mortals, or even like the inferior priests, and so he always
walks on his hands with his feet in the air, thereby striking awe into the
laity. Some of the priests are rain-makers, who perform the duties of
their office by building little mounds of earth and making fetish over
them. From the centre of each charmed mound rises a strange insect,
which mounts into the sky, and brings as much rain as the people .lave
paid for. These priests are regularly instituted, but there are some \/ho
are born to the office, such as dwarfs, hunchbacks, and albinos, all of
whom are highly honored as specially favored individuals, consecrated to
the priesthood by Nature herself.

Poison and Bccl-liot Iron.
The priests have, as usual, a system of ordeal, the commonest mode
being the drinking of the poison cup, and the rarest the test of the red-
hot iron, which is applied to the skin of the accused, and burns him if he
be guilty. There is no doubt that the magicians are acquainted with
some preparation which renders the skin proof against a brief applica-
tion of hot iron, and that they previously apply it to an accused person
who will pay for it.

The Chitome has the privilege of conducting the coronation of a king.
The new ruler proceeds to the house of the Chitome, attended by a host
of his future subjects, who utter piercing yells as he goes. Having
reached the sacred house, he kneels before the door, and asks the Chi-
tome to be gracious to him. The Chitome growls out a flat refusal from
within The king renews his supplications, in spite of repeated rebuffs
enumerating all the presents which he has brought to the Chitome —
which presents, by the way, are easily made, as he will extort an equal
amou.it from his subjects as soon as he is fairly installed.

At last, the door of the hut opens, and out comes the Chitome in his
white robe of office, his head covered with feathers, and a shining mir-

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THE GIRAFFE OR CAMELOPARD.

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(355)

356

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ror on his breast. The king lies prostrate before the house, while the
Chitome pours water on him, scatters dust over him, and sets his feet on
him. He then lies flat on the prostrate monarch, and in that position
receives from him a promise to respect his authority ever afterward. The
king is then proclaimed, and retires to wash and change his clothes.

A Klngr in Gorgreous Apparel.

Presently he comes out of the palace, attended by his priests and
nobles, and gorgeous in all the bravery of his new rank, his whole person
covered with glittering ornaments of metal, glass, and stone^ so that the
eye can scarcely bear the rays that flash on every side as he moves in
the sunbeams. He then seats himself, and makes a speech to the people.
When it is finished, he rises, while all the people crouch to the ground,
stretches his hands over them, and makes certain prescribed gestures,
which are considered as the royal benediction. A long series of ban-
quets and revelry ends the proceedings.

At the present day, the Congo king and great men disfigure themselves
with European clothing, such as silk jackets, velvet shoes, damask coats,
and broad-brimmed hats. But, in the former times, they dressed becom-
ingly in native attire. A simple tunic made of very fine grass cloth, and
leaving the right arm bare, covered the upper part of the body, while a
sort of petticoat, made of similar material, but dyed black, was tied
round the waist, and an apron, or " sporran," of leopard skin, was fas-
tened to the girdle and hung in front. On their heads they wore a sort
of hood, and sometimes preferred a square red and yellow cap. Sandals
made of the palm tree were the peculiar privilege of the king and nobles,
the common people being obliged to go bare-footed.

Wives Who Receive Vigorous Attention.

The wives in Congo are tolerably well off", except that they are severely
beaten with the heavy hippopotamus-hide whip. The women do not
resent this treatment, and indeed, unless a woman is soundly flogged
occasionally, she thinks that her husband is neglecting her, and feels
offended accordingly. The king has the power of taking any woman
for his wife, whether married or not, and, when she goes to the royal
harem, her husband is judiciously executed.

The people of Congo are — probably on account of the enervating cli-
mate — a very indolent and lethargic race, the women being made to do all
the work, while the men lie in the shade and smoke their pipes and drink
their palm-wine, which they make remarkably well, though not so well
as the Bube tribe of Fernando Po. Their houses are merely huts of the
simplest description ; a few posts with a roof over them, and twigs woven

STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

357

between them in wicker-work fashion by way of walls, are all that a
Congo man cares for in a house. His clothing is as simple as his lodg-.
ing, a piece of native cloth, tied round his middle being all that he cares
for ; so that the ample clothes and handsome furs worn by the king must
have had a very strong effect on the almost naked populace.

The Jagas are a race now settled in Cassange country, into which they
seem originally to have entered as marauders or conquerors. In the
early state of the kingdom they were ruled by Tembandumba — a queer
whose excesses, if not exaggerated in the narrative, seem demoniacal in
their extent. She soon, by her exploits in war, made herself feared and
respected by enemies and subjects ; but so terrible were her cruelties and
tyranny, that only the awe in which she was held prevented her subjects
rebelling. She had a host of lovers, all of whom, one after the other,
she killed with the most cruel tortures as soon as she had tired of them.
Breaking loose from all her relatives — who had ventured to remonstrate
with her — she founded a constitution which only a woman, and one will-
ing to proceed to those extremes of which the sex is capable, could have

imagined.

Horrible Practices.

" She would turn," writes Mr. Winwood Reade, " the world into a wil-
derness ; she would kill all living animals ; she would burn all forests,
grass, and vegetable food. The sustenance of her subjects should be the
flesh of man ; his blood should be their drink. She commanded all male
children, all twins, and all infants whose upper teeth appeared before their
lower ones, should be killed by their own mothers. From their bodies
an ointment should be made, in the way she would show. The female
children should be reared, and instructed in war ; and male prisoners,
before being killed and eaten, should be used for the purpose of pro-
creation.

" Having concluded her harangue, with the publication of other laws of
minor importance, this young women seized her child, which was feeding
at her breast, flung him into a mortar, and pounded him to a pulp. She
flung this into a large earthen pot, adding roots, leaves, and oils, and
made the whole into an ointment, with which she rubbed herself before
them all, telling them that this would render her invulnerable, and that
now she could subdue the universe. Immedia;tely, her subjects, seized
with a savage enthusiasm, massacred all their male children, and immense
quantities of this human ointment were made ; and of which, they say,
some is still preserved among the Jagas,"
An empire of Amazons was apparently contemplated. Not only were

358

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

;,i i '

male children to be massacred, but women's flesh was forbidden to be
eaten. But she soon found it impossible to battle against nature.
Mothers concealed their male infants ; and though officers were appointed
to be present at every birth to see that the law was carried out, yet, after
a time, she found it necessary to order that the invulnerable ointment
might be made of the bodies of infants captured in war. Whole terri-
tories were conquered and laid waste ; and disaffection in her own army
jhe kept down by having the forces continually employed.

The Queen's Tragic End.

As age grew upon her she grew worse and worse — more cruel to he.
victims ; more abominable in all her dealings with her subjects. At last
she was subdued. Falling desparately in love with a private soldier in
her army, she publicly married him, and gave him half her throne and
kingdom. As last she grew tired of him, as she had grown tired of a
hundred before. But she had met her match. Calming, cajoling, and
flattering his terrible queen, the king-consort managed for a time to post-
pone his inevitable fate — to be fondled to-day, to be dined off to-morrow.
One day he entertained her at dinner with all the choice viands which
the kingdom of Congo or the young Portuguese colonies on the Coast
could supply. Her drink had been poisoned. Her husband was saved,
and the kingdom freed from a tyrant, whose rule was beginning to be too
heavy to bear. Yet he was never suspected ; or perhaps his act was d
too meritorious a character to be taken notice of. So, after much wail-
ing over her funeral — as subjects will wail over kings, no matter how vile
— Tembandumba slept with her fathers ; and Culemba, her affectionate
husband, reigned in her stead.

Blood-curdling tales are told of the excesses of some of the old sov-
ereigns. For instance, Shinga was the name of the Negro queen who
came to power in the year 1640, but, through the intrigues of the Jesuit
priests, to whose rites she did not choose to submit, was forced to fly the
kingdom, after contending with her nephew in three pitched battles,
which she lost. In 1646 she regained her kingdom, after many vicissi-
tudes of fortune. But by this time Queen Shinga had got so accustomed
to war, that she cared for nothing else. Her life was spent in hostilities
against the neighboring kingdoms.

A Female Demon.

Before she undertook any new enterprise, she would sacrifice the
handsomest man she could find. Clad in skins, with a sword hanging
round her neck, an axe at her side, and bow and arrow in her hand, she
would dance and sing, striking two iron bells. Then taking a feather

STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

359

she would put it through the holes in her nose, as a sign of war, would
cut off the victim's head with her sword, and drink a deep draught of
his blood. She had fifty or sixty male favorites; and while she always
<lressed herself as a man, they were compelled to take the names and
garments of women. If one of them denied that he was a woman he
was immediately killed. The queen, however, was charitable enough to
let them belie their words by their actions. They might have as many
vives as they chose ; but if a child was born, the husband was com-
pelled to kill it with his own hands.

Shinga obtained great power over her subjects. She, however, was
wise in her generation, and, after she had*fought the Portuguese, and
been beaten by them, she concluded an humble peace, and retained her
kingdom in safety.

At the present time the Congo kingdom has fallen from its high
estate. The people are lethargic, and altogether given over to palm-wine
and tobacco ; their houses are huts of grass fibres or palm leaves, and
their clothing a piece of native cloth round the middle. Their domestic
utensils are on a par with this primitive barbarism. Baskets made of the
fibre of the palm-tree, bowls of gourds, earthen vessels for boiling,
wooden spoons, and beds of grass on a raised platform are about the
only furniture of their simple huts. Whatever magnificence once existed
is now almost gone.

Universal Polygamy.

Though Portuguese, and latterly English, missions have been estab-
lished among these tribes, fetishism is still to a great extent the prevail-
ing semblance of worship, the Cross being regarded simply as new fetish
.introduced by the powerful white man. Polygamy is universal, and the
marr'-.^e ceremony little more than buying the wife from her parents,
and giving a feast to her family and friends. But if the nuptial rites are
brief and simple, their sepulchral ceremonies are more elaborate, for fre-
quently, in order to admit of all the relatives being present, the interment
of the deceased will be delayed several months. The dead are frequently
desiccated by roasting, and then buried in the huts which they occupied
during life. ♦

Of late years the natives of the Congo have received renewed atten-
tion. Expeditions have often been despatched a little up the river for the
purpose of trade and exploration, or 'a order to punish the Mussurongo
pirates, who have frequently attacked the vessels engaged in carrying
goods to or from the " factories " established below the Yellala Falls.
However, since Mr. Stanley succeeded in proving that the river commu-

I i

360

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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nicated with the Tanganyika lake, and is the noblest water-way to tiie
interior, numerous traders have settled on its lower reaches, and the
posts of the International Association, presided over by the King of the
Belgians, are pushing civilization and commerce towards its upper waters.
Before leaving the customs of the Congoese, we must notice tiiat the
eating habits of some of the Congo tribes are very curious. They are,
like all the Negro races, enormous feeders, as many as 300 oxen having
been known to be killed and eaten when a "soba" or chief of the Mun-
dombes, dies, the feast lasting for several days, the gluttons often rollinf»
on the ground in the agonies of indigestion, but only t ) rise again and
resume eating, abstaining meanwhile from drink, lest it should prevent
them from finding room for the solids. Among some of the natives a
singular custom prevails. It consists in oiifering a visitor a dish oi
" infundi," or " pirao," and should there not be a bit of meat in the
larder, they send out to a neighbor for " lent rat," as it is called. This
Mr. Monteiro describes as a field rat roasted on a skewer, and which is
presented to the guest, who, holding the skewer in his left hand, dabs bits
of " infundi " on the rat before he swallows them, as if to give them a
flavor, but he is very careful not to eat the rat, or even the smallest por-
tion of it, as that would be considered a great crime and offence, and
would be severely punished by their laws. It is supposed that the host
has by this hospitality duly preserved the dignity of his house and posi-
tion, the entire sham being a curious instance of elaborate politeness
without sincerity existing among a race which might reasonably be sup-
posed unsophisticated.

, Singular Saliitatious.

The subject of salutations would afford a theme for many chapters, •
For example, when two Monbuttoos of the far Nile tributaries meet they
join the right hands, and say, " Gassigy," at the same time cracking the
joints of the middle fingers, while in Uguha, on the western side of Lake
Tanganyika, Mr. Stanley describes the people saluting each other as
follows : — A man appears before a party seated ; he bends, takes up a
bundle of earth or sand with his right hand, and throws a little into hi«
left. The left hand rubs the sand or earth over the right elbow and the
right side of the stomach, while the right hand performs the same opera-
tion for the left part of the body, words of salutation being rapidly uttered
in the meanwhile. To his inferiors, however, the new-comer slaps his
hand several times, and after each slap lightly taps the region of the
heart.

In like manner, the modes of taking an oath are so very extensive that

STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

361

a large space could very profitably be devoted to this interesting phase-
of African life. In many tribes on the West Coast the common way
among blacks to affirm the truth of a statement is, according to Monteiro,.

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YOUNG "fetish" man OF THK CONGO DISTRICT.

to go on their knees, and rub the forefinger of each hand on the ground,.
and then touch their tongues and foreheads with the dusty tips. About
Loanda, they make the sign of the Cross on the ground with a finger, for;

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the same purpose ; but this is evidently a remnant of old missionary
teaching.

Titles — the love for them, and the endless variety of designations in-
tended to express dignity — might equally be enlarged on, without the
subject being at all exhausted, while the multiplicity of fashions adopted
in dressing their woolly hair, filing their teeth, splitting their ears, o:
generally improving upon nature, will be touched, as far as so extensive
1 theme admits of, in the chapters which follow. We may, however
note in this place a few singular customs, which give a better idea ol
African characteristics than more labored analyses of their mental traits,

How Wives Manage Hiisbnnils.

One custom said to be universal in Oriental Africa is that of a woman
tying a knot in anyone's turban, thereby placing herself under his pro-
tection in order to be revenged upon her husband, who may have beaten
her for some offence. In due time, when the husband comes to claim
her, he is compelled to pay a ransom, and to promise, in the presence of
his chief, never again to maltreat her. In nearly every village in Unyam-
wesi there are two or three public-houses, or perhaps they might be
called clubs. One is appropriated to the women, and another to the
men, though at the one frequented by the men all travellers of distinction
are welcomed by the chiefs and elders. As soon as a boy attains the
age of seven or eight years, he throws off the authority of his mother,
and passes most of his time at the club, usually eating and often sleeping
there. On the death of a Wagogo chief, the son is supposed to look
upon his father's eldest surviving brother as his new and adopted father,
but only in private and not in public affairs.

There is another point connected v/ith the black races of Africa to
which a few lines may be devoted. The hair of most Africans — and
universally of the Negro and Negroid tribes — is short, inclined to split
longitudinally, and much crimped^ In South Africa the Hottentot's hair
is more matted into tufts than that of the Kaffir, while it is not uncom-
mon to find long hair, and even considerable beards, among some of the
tribes inhabiting the central plateau of the continent. Black is the almost
universal color of their hair. In old age it becomes white ; but accord-
ing to Walker there are cases among the Negroes of the Gaboon in
which red hair, red eyebrows and eyes are not uncommon, and Schwein-
furth speaks of Monbuttoos with ashy fair hair, and skin much fairer
than that of their fellow-tribesmen.

It may also be mentioned that individuals with reddish hair are by no
means rarely seen among the mountaineers of the Atlas. Whiskers are

missionary

nations in-
■ithout the
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(363)

864

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

rare, though not unknown, and long beards arc said to be found among
Niam-niam, and among the papers left by Miani, the unfortunate Italian
traveller, there is a notice of a man with a beard half as long as his own,.
which. Dr. Schweinfurth remarks, was of " a remarkable length." The
color of the Negro's skin passes through every gradation from ebony
black to the copper color.

Famous Kinsr aud Queen.

Speaking of the Gaboon, we must notice the celebrated king who
ruled many years in that region, arid possessed many traits in common
with the savage tribes around him. A traveller makes the following
reference to him :

" When I was up this river a few years since, an aged king was then
reigning, whom the English called King William and the French Rot
Denis ; a somewhat remarkable character in his way. He had made a
voyage to Europe, but his contact with civilization had no effect upon his
manner of life, his liking for rum, and plurality of wives. At one time he
derived large revenue from the slave trade, the Gaboon being the river
from the mouth of which the slaves were embarked for the Englisii.
French and American colonies; but when the trade was checked his
income decreased very much, and his riches then seem to have con-
sisted of an amazing number of suits of clothes, old uniforms, gaily deco-
rated coats, and other fanciful attire, with which he decked his black
person. When I saw him with his principal wife he was most gorgeously
arrayed in a scarlet coat with an epaulet on each shoulder, and the breast
elaborately braided; a medal was swung around his neck,' and in his
hand he held a cane. That was the only time I ever saw him."

The tribes on the banks of the Congo are of the most ferocious descrip-
tion, and treacherous beyond anything with which African travellers
have hitherto had much experience. Mr. Stanley, with a kindly enthusi-
asm fully appreciated, proposed to call the river the Livingstone. But a?
this would have been an innovation on all the established rules of geo-
graphical names, it has not been adopted.

The country on either side of the Congo is remarkably different
North of it are lagoons and swamps covered with the sickly mangrove
and backed by dense forests. South of the great river we come into a
country covered with coarse grass, and scattered with occasional baobab-
trees, while little forest can be seen from the ocean ; and inside of feverish
lagoons we have long stretches of sandy bays, such as prevail on to the
Cape of Good Hope. But as we travel back from the shore the coifntry
rises terrace by terrace, with corresponding changes of vegetation, the

STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

a66

climate .getting moister as the more densely-clothed interior is ap-
proached, until on the third and highest terrace great plains, covered with
gigantic grasses, make their appearance.

Traders and Their Wares.

At the mouth of the river there are several foreign trading stations, or
factories, established on a sandy strip of coast, called Banana. Some
forty-five miles further up are the stations of Punta da Lenha (Wooded
Point) ; and at Em-bomma, or as the traders call it, Bomma, sixty mile-
from the mouth of the river, there are the highest of all the foreign settle-
ments. Here are Portuguese, English, French, Dutch, and St. Helena
traders. The neighboring country is singularly sterile. According to Mr.
Stanley, it is bleak in the extreme. " Shingly rocks strewed the pafl-j
and the waste, and the thin sere grass waved mournfully on leveJ
and spine, on slope of ridge and crest of hill ; in the hollows it was some-
what thicker ; in the bottoms it had a slight tinge of green."

The six factories at Bomma are all constructed of wooden boards,
roofed in the generality of cases with corrugated zinc. Business is trans-
acted in the ample court-yard attached to each factory. This consists in
bartering calico, glass-ware, crockery, iron-ware, gin, rum, arms, and gun-
powder, for palm-oil, ground-nuts and ivory. The merchants live toler-
ably comfortably. Some of them have fruit and garden vegetables, and
little vineyards, while pineapples and limes may be obtained from the
market, which is held on alternate days behind the European settlement.

In earlier times Bomma was a great seat of the slave trade ; and to
this day Tuckey's description of the people, though written more than
half a century ago, is still perfectly applicable. They are as rude, super-
stitious, and pagan as ever they were, the efforts of the missionaries
having as yet scarcely impressed the solid mass of primeval barbarism.
They still distrust strangers as much as ever, are still as intolerant of any
innovation in their customs, and their lust after rum and idleness is as
marked to-day as half a century ago. It may be added that were slaves
salable tke Congoese would not be wanting in alacrity in obtaining them,
and we may be perfectly certain that barracoons for their reception, and
smart skippers for their shipment, would speedily reappear on the scene
of the old — though it is affirmed, so far as the Portuguese and Spanish
isles and colonies are concerned, not altogether extinct — traffic.

In early days the Congo country extended far south of the river, and
in the capital of the then kingdom the Jesuits resided and reared a cathe-
dral, the remains of which still exist, and owing to the priestly influence
■obtained great power throughout the country. The monarch was often

366

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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ruled by females, the tales of whose ferocity were stock subjects for the
early chroniclers. The empire of Congo is, however, now a something of
the past, though in the neigborhood of Ambassi the nominal king still
exercises sufficient control over the people to be able to annoy the cara-
vans passing to and from the interior ; but a score of local chieftains have
as much authority as he.

Though the Portuguese claim the coast from a point considerably north
of ':hc Congo, they have never actually occupied it north of eight degrees:
of south latitude ; and here the reader must note that we are getting

GUEREZA WITH BEAUTIFUL ILYING MANTLE.

south of the equator. The elephant is not now met with in the maritime
region, but in the less populous regions antelopes, zebras, bufifalos — not,
it need scarcely be remarked, the American bison, which is popularly
known by that name — hyaenas, jackals, leopards, and the monkey

As for the monkey tribe, a description of the guereza must suffice.
The general color of this monkey is black. The sides of the body and
top of the loins are ornamented with long, pendant, white hairs, forming
a fringe-like ma:.tle. The face is encircled by white, and the tail ends in
a white tuft. The guereza lives, according to Riippell, in small families,
tenanting the lofty trees in the neighborhood of running waters. It is

:ts for the

nething of

king still

the cara-

ftains have

ably north
ht degrees
re getting

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arming
mds in
milies.
It is

(367)

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S68

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

active and lively, and at the same time gentle and inoffensive. It is the
;prettiest of all the monkeys, and our illustration gives an idea of its
striking appearance. It is an excellent climber. Formerly the skin of
the guereza was used by the natives for decorating their shields, but with
the introduction of fire-arms the demands for shields and for this coveted
decoration ceased, and this is undoubtedly a fact to be glad of, because
there exists no more instigation to hunt this beautiful and entirely harm-
less animal.

It has the head, face and neck, back, limbs and part of tail covered
with short, black velvety hair, the temples, chin, throat and a band over
the eyes white, and the sides, flanks, from the shoulders downward, and
loins clothed with white hair.

Like all the others, these monkeys are pre-eminently a sylvan race ;
they never abandon the forests, where they live in society under the
guidance of the old males. They seem to be mifch attached to partic-
ular localities. Each tribe or family has its own particular district, into
which individuals of other tribes or species are never allowed to intrude,
the whole community uniting promptly to repel any aggression, either on
their territory or their individual right. So strongly is this propensity
implanted within them that they carry it into our manageries. Noth-
ing is more common than to see monkeys of the same species unit-
ing to defend one of their kind against the tyranny of a powerful
oppressor, or to resent any insult offered to a member of their little
community.

These animals generally tak' *;heir quarters in the vicinity of a run-
ning stream, and seldom appro: . 'le labitations of men, or invade the
cultivated grounds of the garden- .r and husbandman. No doubt it is their
spirit of union and mutual defence which prompts them to collect round
travellers, and, by their chattering, grimace, and other means in their
power, endeavor to prevent an intrusion into the spot which they regard
as their own.

There are no domestic animals in Congo except goats, swine, dogs
djats, and a few sheep, with hair instead of wool. The goats are very
beautiful, but the other quadrupeds are rather woe-begone specimens of
their kind. The natives do not use beasts of burden, and the horses,
asses, mules, and camels introduced by the Portuguese have died out.
The Congoese have never kept horned cattle, though they thrive well
enough in the few places on the coast where they are reared under the
care of the whites.

The natives in some parts of the country still retain traces of the civil-

STANLEY AND THE CONGO.

309

Jwition and even of the literary culture introduced among them by the
Jesuits, but south of the Coanza River the land is left almost solely to

MONUMENT AND SKULLS ERECTED TO A CHIEF.

wild hunting tribes, who, in their taste for the ownership of cattle, and in
the use of the spear and war-club, resemble the Kaffir race, with whom

370

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

1 1

they live in close proximity. The country abounds in many natural re«
sources, including gum-copal, iron, and copper, and is capable of growing
coffee and many other crops.

Cannibals on the War-path.

Mr. Stanley describes the tribes amongst whom he ran the gauntlet
during his descent of the river as cannibals of the fiercest description
bold, athletic, and numerous, and in time likely to furnish ample work
both for the missionary and the merchant, though, except that the ener
getic explorer has preserved some of their names, we are still at sea
regarding their relationship to the Central Africans and to the tribes nearer
the mouth of the river.

The shores of both the Congo and the Aruwimi resounded with the
din of the everlasting war-drums, and from every cove and island swarmed
a crowd of canoes, that began forming into line to intercept and attack
the travellers. These crafts were larger than any that had yet been
encountered. The leading canoe of the savages was of portentous length,
with forty paddlers on each side, while on a platform at the bow were
stationed ten redoubtable young warriors, with crimson plumes of the
parrot stuck in their hair, and poising long spears. Eight steersmen were
placed on the stern, with large paddles ornamented with balls of ivory ;
while a dozen others, apparently chiefs, rushed from end to end of
the boat directing the attack.

Fifty-two other vessels of scarcely smaller dimensions followed in its
wake. From the bow of each waved a long mane of palm fibre ; every
warrior was decorated with feathers and ornaments of ivory ; and the
sound of a hundred horns carved out of elephants' tusks, and a song of
challenge and defiance chanted from two thousand savage throats, added
to the wild excitement of the scene. Their wild war-cry was " Yaha-
ha-ha, ya Bengala."

The assailants were put to flight after a series of charges more deter-
mined and prolonged than usual.

In the centre of the village was found a singular structure — a temple
of ivory, the circular roof suppoited by thirty-three large tusks, and
surmounting a hideous idol, four feet high, dyed a bright vermillion
color, with black eyes, beard and hair. Their cannibal propensities were
plainly shown in the rows of skulls that grinned from poles, and the
bones and other grisly remains of human feasts scattered about: the
village streets.

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CHAPTER XVII.
STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

(lie Greatest Feat on Record— Stanley's Journey Across the Continent to the Congo-
Expedition Planned by the Daily Telegraph of London and the New York
//'^raA/— Englishmen in the Party— The Barge Named the " Lady Alice "- An
Army of Followers to Carry the Outfit— Journey to the Victoria Nyanza — Specu-
lation as to the Sources of the Nile— Dangers of Travelling in the Dark Conti-
jient— Crawling Through Jungles — ^A Famine-stricken District — Two Young Lions
for Food — Stanley's Pity for His Famishing Men — Death of a Young English-
man—Burial Under a Tree — Discovery of the Extreme Southern Sources of the
Nile— Arrival at Vinyata — Strange Old Magic Doctor— Breaking Out of Hostili-
ties-Severe Loss of Men — Treachery of Natives — Arrival of Six Beautiful
Canoes — Stanley Receives a Royal Invitation — The Creat King Mtesa Welcomes
the Traveller— Prodigal Display of Hospitality— Great Naval Parade in Honor of
the Visitor— Uganda, the Country of King Mtesa — Startling Horrors of African
Life— Severe Punishments Inflicted by the King — Errand Boys in Picturesque
Dress — ^The King's Power of Life or Death— A Queen's Narrow Escape — Instru-
ments of Torture — A Powerful Despot— Review of the Warriors — History of the
Old King — Strange Tales of the Ancient Times — Marvellous Military Drill — Sin-
gular Funeral Customs — Description of King Mtesa in Early Life — How the King
Receives Visitors — Royal Ceremonies — Superstitious Dread of a Water Spirit —
Decorations and Mystic Symbols — ^Worshipping with Fife and Drum — The Afri-
can's Indolent Char-^cter — Stanley's Estimate of King Mtesa —A Doubtful Eulogy.

TXT^ now come to one of the most extraordinary, if not actually the
IJfi greatest feat ever performed in the annals of modern explora-
tion. This expedition undertaken by Henry M. Stanley from
Zanzibar right across the African continent to the Congo, is so full of
perilous adventure, so remarkable for pluck and resolution, that it stands
out boldly upon the canvas of history as the greatest achievement of our
times.

Stanley's own account of what preceded his great undertaking is fuU
%i interest :

•* While returning to England in April, '74, from the Ashantee War;
die news reached me that Livingstone was dead — that his body was on
its way to England !

" Livingstone had then fallen ! He was dead ! He had died by the
shores of Lake Bemba, on the threshold of the dark region he wished to
explore! The work he had promised to perform was only begun when
4eath overtook him ! ' . '

(371)

372

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

"The effect which this news had upon me, after the first shock
passed away, was to fire me with a resolution to complete his work, to
be, if God willed it, the next martyr to geographical science, or, if my
life was to be spared, to clear up not only the secrets of the Great River
throughout its course, but also all that remained still problematic and
incomplete of the discoveries of Burton and Speke, and Speke and
Grant. -

" The solemn day of the burial of the body of my great friend arrived.
I was one of the pall-bearers in Westminster Abbey, and when I had
seen the coffin lowered into the grave, and had heard the first handful of
earth thrown over it, I walked away sorrowing over the fate of David
Livingstone."

Soon the resolve was formed to complete, if possible, the work Living-
stone had been compelled to leave undone.

In this memorable expedition the Dat/y Telegraph of London and the
New York Herald newspapers were associated. Mr. Stanley was com-
missioned to complete the discoveries of Speke, Burton, and Livingstone.
His party from England consisted of Francis and Edward Pocock and
Frederick Barker. A " barge," named tlie " Lady Alice," was taken ia
sections, besides two other boats, with a perfect equipment. When all
preparations had been completed, and the farewell dinners eaten, Stanley
left England, to begin his perilous journey, on the 15th of August, 1874.
He reached Zanzibar September 21st, 1874, and there found many former
associates of his search for Doctor Livingstone. He engaged quite a
little army of followers to go with him and carry the outfit. This outfit,.
which consisted of a most miscellaneous collection of articles, weighed
1 8,000 pounds, and was, with the party, carried across to the continent
from Zanzibar island in six Arab vessels. On the morning of the 17th of
November the start was made into the interior.

«« Was it the Source of the Nile? »»

The first stage of this journey was to the Victoria Nyanza, which
Stanley desired to explore. The imperfect description and explanations
of previous travellers had left much to be decided concerning this great
inland sea. ■" Was it the source of the Nile or of the Congo ? " " Was
it part of a lake system, or a lake by itself? " These questions Stanley
had determined to answer once for all. -^

The advance to the great Lake Victoria was full of adventurous interest.
Travelling in the " Dark Continent " means being at times in the wilder-
ness without a guide, or with traitors acting as guides, which is a worse
alternative. This was Stanley's fate, and he was deserted in the waste

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

373

■with a small stock of food. Through the terrible " jungle '^ the men had
to crawl, cutting their way, guided solely by the compass, overcome by
hunger and thirst, desertions frequent, sickness stalking alongside. This
was indeed " famine-stricken Ugogo."

While on this disastrous march he lost five of his people, who " wan-
dered on helplessly, fell down, and died." The country produced nc
food, or even game, unless lions could be so called. Two young lions
were found in a den, and were quickly killed and eaten. This was the
only food for the whole expedition 1 Stanley tells us how he returned to
camp, and was so struck by the pinched jaws of his followers that he
nearly wept. He decided to utilize his precious medical stores, and
wisely, for the people were faminishing : medicinal comforts for the dead
had no meaning. So he made a quantity of gruel, which kept the expe-
dition alive for eight and forty hours, and then the men he had des-
patched to Suma for provisions returned with food. Refreshed, they all
marched on, so that they might reach Suma next morning.

Death of Edward Pocock.

After proceeding twenty miles, they came to the cultivated districts
and encamped. But the natives of Suma were hostile, and the increasing
sick list made a four days' halt necessary. There were thirty men ailing
from various diseases. Edward Pocock was taken ill here, and on the
fourth day he became delirious • but the increasing suspicions of the
natives — who are represented as a \^ery fine race — made departure neces-
sary, and so a start was made on the 17th January, in very hostile com-
pany. The famine in Ugogo had severely tried every man's constitution,
and all felt weak in spirit if not ill in body. " Weary, harassed, feeble
creatures," they reached Chiwyu, four hundred miles from the sea, and
camped near the crest of a hill 5,400 feet high. Here Edward Pocock
breathed his last He was laid under an acacia, and upon the trunk of
this fine old tree a cross was cut deeply, in memory of a faithful fol-
lower.

Hence two rivulets run, gradually converging, and finally uniting intc
J stream which trends toward Lake Victoria. So here the extreme
southern sources of the Nile were discovered; but up to this point the
explorer, had, as he said, " child's play," to what he afterwards encount-
ered. We have already seen what this child's play was like.

From sad Chiwyu to Vinyata was the route. After passing Mangina,
the expedition entered Iturn, and so to Izanjih, where Kaif Halleck was
seized with asthma. He would lag behind, and so Stanley proceeded
gently to Vinyata, where the expedition arrived on the 21st of January,

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AFRICAN WARRIOR RUSHING TO BATTLE.

(374)

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

375

1875. Here a magic doctor paid Stanley a visit, and cant longing eyes

at the stores. Scouts had been meantime .sent after the man Kaif Hal-

leck, and he was found murdered on the edge of a wood, his body gashed

by many wounds. ' v

Hostilities Break Out. 1

Next day, after the departure of the magic doctor, who came for
inothei present, the natives showed hostile symptoms. One hundred
savages, armed and in warlike costume, came around, shouting and
brandishing their weapons. At this juncture Stanley, following Living-
stone's practice, decided to make no counter demonstration ; but to
remain quiet in camp, and provoke no hostility. This plan did not
answer, however. The natives mistook for cowardice the wish for peace.
There were so many tempting articles too — stores dear to the native
mind, which the inhabitants cov cted. No peace would be made at any
price, and the savages attacked the camp in force.

Stanley disposed his men behind hastily -erected earthworks and other
fhelter, and used the sections of the " Lady Alice " barge as a citadel fof
final occupation. There were only seventy effective men to defend the
camp, but these were divided into detachments and subdivided. One
6ub-detachment was quickly destroyed, and in the day's fight twenty-one
soldiars and one messenger were killed — three wounded. Stanley^s men,
however, pursued the retreating enemy, and burned many villages, the
men bringing in cattle and grain as spoils. Next day the natives came
on again, but they were quickly routed, and the expedition continued its
way through the now desolate valley unmolested. So the Iturnians
were punished, after three days of battle.

Heavy Losses of Men.
The victors, however, had not much to boast of. Alter only three
months* march, the expedition had lost 120 Africans and one European,
from the effects of sickness and battle. There were now only 194 men
left of 356 who had set out with the expedition. They pressed on, how-
ever, towards the Victoria Nyanza, and after escaping the warlike
Mirambo, who fought everybody on principle, Stanley reached Kagehyi
on the 27th February. He was now close to the Lake, having marched
720 miles ; average daily march, 10 miles.

On the 8th March Stanley, leaving F. Pocock to corriinand the camp,
set forth with eleven men in the " Lady Alice," to explore the Lake and
ascertain whether it is one of a series, as Dr. Livingstone said it was.
The explorer began by coasting Speke Gulf. Many interesting observa-
tions were made. He penetrated into each little bay and creek, finding

376

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

■

'I'll

i^l

indications that convinced him that the slave trade is carried on there.
But the explorer had to battle for his information. Near Chaga the
natives came down, and, after inducing him to land, attacked him ; but
Stanley " dropped " one man, and the natives subsided. On another occa
sion the natives tried to entrap him, but he escaped by firing on the
savages, killing three men, and sinking their canoes with bullets from an
elephant rifle.

Continuing his course now unopposed, Stanley coasted along the;
Uganda shore. Just as he was about to depart, on the following morn-\
ing, he perceived six beautiful canoes, crowded with men, all dressed in
white, approaching ; they were the king's people conveying a messenger
from the King of Uganda to Stanley, begging a visit from him. This
messenger was gorgeously arrayed for the important occasion ; he wore
a bead-worked head-dress, above which long white cock's feathers waved,
and a snowy white and long-haired goat-skin, intertwined with a crimson
robe, depending from his shoulders, completed his costume. Approach-
ing Stanley, he delivered his message thus :

A Royal Invitation.

" The Kabaka (King) sends me with many salaams to you. He is in
great hopes that you will visit him, and has encamped at Usavara, that he
ma; je near the lake when you come. He does not know from what
land you have come, but I have a swift messenger with a canoe who will
not stop until he gives all the news to the Kabaka. His mother dreamed
a dream a few nights ago, and in her dream she saw a white man on this
lake in a boat coming this way, and the next morning 'he told the
Kabaka, and, lo ! you have come. Give me your answer, that I may
send the messenger. Twiyanzi-yanzi-yanzi 1" (Thanks, thanks, thanks.)

Thus delivering himself, the messenger, whose name was Magassa,
implored Stanley to remain one day longer, that he might show him the
hospitalities of his country, and prepare him for a grand reception by the
king, to which Stanley consented.

Magassa was in his glory now. His voice became imperious to his
escort of 182 men; even the feathers of hfs curious head-dress waved
prouder, and his robe had ^a sweeping dignity worthy of a Roman
emperor's. Upon landing, Magassa's stick was employed frequently.
The sub-chief of Kadzi was compelled to yield implicit obedience to his
viceregal behests.

" Bring out bullocks, sheep, and goats, milk, and the mellowest of your
choicest bananas, and great jars of maramba, and let the white man and
his boatmen eat, and taste of the hospitalities of Uganda. Shall a white

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

377

man enter the Kabaka's presence with an empty belly ? See how sallow
and pinched his cheeks are. We want to see whether we cannot show
him kindness superior to what the pagans have shown him."

Five canoes escorted the travellers to Usavara, the capital of King
Mtesa. The explorer was most kindly received, and closely questioned
upon subjects of so diverse a character as to remind Stanley of a college
examination for a degree.

Great Naval Parade.

King Mtesa appeared quite a civilized monarch, quite a different being
from what he had been when Speke and Grant had visited him as a
young man. He had become an adherent of Mahomet, wore Arab dress,
and conducted himself well. He entertained Stanley with reviews of
canoes, a naval " demonstation " of eighty-four " ships " and 2,500 men !
Shooting matches, parades, and many other civilized modes of entertain-
ment were practiced for the amusement of the white man. In Uganda
the traveller is welcomed, and perfectly safe.

King Mtesa's country is situated on the equator, and is a much more
pleasant land than might be supposed from its geographical position,
being fertile, and covered with vegetation. It is a peculiarly pleasant
land for a traveller, as it is covered with roads, which are not only broad
and firm, but are cut almost in a straight line from one point to another.
Uganda seems to be unique in the matter of roads, the like of which are
not to be found in any part of Africa, except those districts which are
held by Europeans. The roads are wide enough for carriages, but far
too steep in places for any wheeled conveyance ; but as the Waganda
(the name given to the inhabitants of Uganda) do not use carriages of
any kind, the roads are amply sufficient for their purposes. The Waganda
have even built bridges across swamps and rivers, but their knowledge of
engineering has not enabled them to build a bridge that would not
decay in a few years.

Like many other tribes which bear, but do not deserve, the name of
savages, the Waganda possess a curiously strict code of etiquette, which
is so stringent on some points that an offender against it is likely to lose
his life, and is sure to incur a severe penalty. If, for example, a man
appears before the king with his dress tied carelessly, or if he makes a
mistake in the mode of saluting, or if, in squatting before his sovereign,
he allows the least portion of his limbs to be visible, he is led off to in-
stant execution. As the fatal sign is given, the victim is seized by the
royal pages, who wear a rope turban round their heads, and at the same
moment all the drums and other instruments strike up, to drown his

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KING MTESA AND HIS OFFICERS OF STATE.

(378)

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

379'

cries for mercy. He is rapidly bound with the ropes snatched hastily
from the heads of the pages, dragged off, and put to death, no one darings
to take the least notice while the tragedy is being enacted.

They have also a code of sumptuary laws which is enforced with the
greatest severity. The skin of the serval, a kind of leopard cat, for ex-
ample, may only be worn by those of royal descent. Once Captain Speke
was visited by a very agreeable young man, who evidendy intended to
strike awe into the white man, and wore round his neck the serval-skia
emblem of royal birth. The attempted deception, however, recoiled
upon its author, who suffered the fate of the daw with the borrowed
plumes. An officer of rank detected the imposture, had the young man
seized, and challenged him to show proofs of his right to wear the em-
blem of royalty. As he failed to do so, he was threatened with being
brought before the king, and so compounded with the chief for a fine of
a hundred cows.

Severe Punishments.

Heavy as the penalty was, the young man showed his wisdom by
acceding to it ; for if he had been brought before the king, he would
assuredly have lost his life', and probably have been slowly tortured to
death. One punishment to which Mtesa, the king of Uganda, seems to
have been rather partial, was the gradual dismemberment of the criminal
for the sake of feeding his pet vultures ; and although on some occasions
he orders them to be killed before they are dismembered, he sometimes
omits that precaution, and the wretched beings are slowly cut to pieces
with grass blades, as it is against etiquette to use knives for this pur-
pose.

The king alone has the privilege of wearing a cock's-comb of hair on
the top ot his head, the remainder being shaved off. This privilege is
sometimes extended to a favorite queen or two, so that actual royalty
may be at once recognized.

When an inferior presents any article to his supe^v r-r, he always pats
and rubs it with his hands, and then strokes with it each side of his face.
This is done in order to show that no witchcraft hcU been practiced with
it, as in such a case the intended evil would recoil on the donor. This
ceremony is well enough when employed with articles of use or apparel;
but when meat, plantains, or other articles of food are rubbed with the
dirty hands and well-greased face of the donor, the recipient, if he should
happen to be a white man, would be only too happy to dispense with the
ceremony, and run his risk of witchcraft.

The officers of the court are required to shave off all their hair except

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(380)

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

381

a single cockade at the back of the head, while the pages are distin-
guished by two cockades, one over each temple, so that, even if they hap-
pen to be without their turbans, their rank and authority are at once indi-
cated. When the king sends the pages on a message, a most pic-
turesque sight is presented. All the commands of the king have to be
done at full speed, and when -ten or a dozen pages start off in a body,
;heir dresses streaming in the air behind them, each striving to outrun the
other, they look at a distance like a flight of birds rather than human
t>eings.

Here, as in many other countries, human life, that of the king ex-
cepted, is not of the least value. On one occasion Mtesa received a new
rifle with which he was much pleased. After examining it for some
time, he loaded it, handed it to one of his pages, and told him to go
and shoot somebody in the outer court. The page, a mere boy, took the
rifle, went into the court, and in a moment the report of the rifle showed
that the king's orders had been obeyed. The urchin came back grinning
with delight at the feat which he had achieved, just like a schoolboy
who has shot his first sparrow, and handed back the rifle to his master.
As to the unfortunate man who was fated to be the target, nothing was-
heard about him, the murder of a man being far too common an incident
to attract notice.

On one occasion, when Mtesa and his wives were on a pleasure excur-
sion, one of the favorites, a singularly good-looking woman, plucked a
fruit, and offered it to the king, evidently intending to please him. In-
stead of taking it as intended, he flew into a violent passion, declared
that it was the first time that a woman had ever dared to offer him any-
thing, and ordered the pages to lead her off^ to execution.

The Queen's Narrow Escape.

These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole bevy
of pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and rushed like a
pack of Cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who, indignant at the little
urchins daring to touch her majesty, remonstrated with the king, and
tried to beat them off" like flies, but was soon captured, overcome, and
dragged away crying for help and protection, whilst Lubuga, the pet
sister, and all the other women clasped the king by his legs, and, kneel-
ing, implored forgiveness for their sister. The more they craved for
mercy, the more brutal he became, till at last he took a heavy stick and
began to belabor the poor victim on the head.

" Hitherto," says Speke, " I had been extremely careful not to inter-
fere with any of the king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that sucb

«i

■382

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

interference at an early stage would produce more harm than good.
This last act of barbarism, however, was too much for my English blood
to stand ; and as I heard my name, M'zungu, imploringly pronounced, I
rushed at the king, and staying his uplifted arm, demanded from him
the woman's life. Of course I ran imminent risk of losing my own
in thus thwarting the capricious tyrant, but his caprice proved the friend

ONE OF MTESAS WIVES RESCUED FROM DEATH.

of both. The novelty of interference made him smile, and the woman
was instantly released,"

On another occasion, when Mtesa had been out shooting, Captain
Grant asked what sport he had enjoyed. The unexpected answer was
that game had been very scarce, but that he had shot a good many men
instead. Beside the pages who have been mentioned, there were several

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

383

le woman

executioners, who were pleasant and agreeable men in private life, and
held in great respect by the people. They were supposed to be in com-
mand of the pages who bound with their rope turbans the unfortunates
vho were to suffer, and mostly inflicted the punishment itself.

The king seems to have been rather exceptionally cruel, his very wives
being subject to the same capriciousness of temper as the rest of his sub-
jects. Of course he beat them occasionally, but as wife beating is the
ordinary custom in Uganda, he was only following the ordinary habits oi

the people.

An lustruiL^ent of Torture.

There is a peculiar whip made for the special purpose of beating wives.
It is formed of a long strip of hippopotamus hide, split down the middle
to within three or four inches of the end. The entire end is beaten and
scraped until it is reduced in size to the proper dimensions of a handle.
The two remaining thongs are suffered to remain square, but are twisted
in a screw-like fashion, so as to present sharp edges throughout their
whole length. When dry, this whip is nearly as hard as iron, and scarcely
less heavy, so that at every blow the sharp edges cut deeply into the
flesh. Wife flogging, however, was not all ; he was in the habit of kill-
ing his wives and their attendants without the least remorse. There was
scarcely a day when some woman was not led to execution, and some
days three or four were murdered. Mostly they were female attendants
of the queens, but frequently the royal pages dragged out a woman whose
single cockade on the '^op of her head announced her as one of the king's
wives.

Mtesa, in fact, was a complete African Bluebeard, continually marry-
ing and killing, the brides, however, exceeding the victims in number.
Royal marriage is a very simple business in Uganda. Parents who have
offended their king and want to pacify him, or who desire to be looked
on favorably by him, bring their daughters and offer them as he sits at
the door of his house. As is the case with all his female attendants,
they are totally unclothed, and stand before the king in ignorance of their
future. If he accept them, he makes them sit down, seats himself on
their knees, and embraces them. This is the whole of the ceremony,
and as each girl is thus accepted, the happy parents perform the curious
salutation called " n'yanzigging," that is, prostrating themselves on the
ground, floundering about, clapping their hands, and ejaculating the
word " n'yans," or thanks, as fast as they can say it.

Twenty or thirty brides will sometimes be presented to him in a single
morning, and he will accept more than half of them, some of them being

384

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

afterward raised to the rank of wives, while the others are relegated
the position of attendants.

Life in the palace may be honorable enough, but seems to be anythin<y
but agreeable, except to the king. The whole of the court are abject
slaves, and at the mercy of any momentary caprice of the merciless,
thoughtless, irresponsible despot. Whatever wish may happen to enter
the king's head must be executed at once, or woe to the delinquent who
fails to carry it out. Restless and captious as a spoiled child, he never
seemed to know exa<;l;ly what he wanted, and would issue simultaneously
the most contradictory ordprs, and then expect them to be obeyed

A Merciless Despot.

As for the men who held the honorable post of his guards, they were
treated something worse than dogs — far worse, indeed, than Mtesa
treated his own dog. They might lodge themselves as they could, and
were simply fed by throwing great lumps of beef and plantains among
them. For this they scramble just like so many dogs, scratching and
tearing the morsels from each other, and trying to devour as much as
possible within a given number of seconds.

The soldiers of Mtesa were much better off than his guards, although
their position was not so honorable. They are well dressed, and their
rank is distinguished by a sort of uniform, the officers of royal birth
wearing the leopard-skin tippet, while those of inferior rank are distin-
guished by colored cloths, and skin cloaks made of the hide of oxen or
antelopes. Each carries two spears, and an oddly-formed shie J, origi-
nally oval, but cut into deep scallops, and having at every point a pend-
ant tuft of hair. Their heads are decorated in a most curious manner,
some of the men wearing a crescent-like ornament, and some tying round
their heads wreaths made of different materials, to which a horn, a bunch
of beads, a dried lizard, or some such ornament, is appended.

Not deficient in personal courage, their spirits were cheered in combat
by the certainty of reward or punishment. Should they behave them-
selves bravely, treasures would be heaped upon them, and they would
receive from their royal master plenty of cattle and wives. But if they
behaved badly, the punishment was equally certain and most terrible
A recreant soldier was not only put to death, but holes bored in his body
with red-hot irons until he died from sheer pain and exhaustion.

Picturesque Review of the Warriors.

Now and then the king held a review, in which the valiant and the
cowards obtained their fitting rewards. These reviews offered most pic-
turesque scenes. " Before us was a large open sward, with the huts oi

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

385

t!ie queen's Kamraviono or comtnander-in-chief beyond. The battalion,
consisting of what might be termed three companies, each containing
two hundred men, being drawn up on the left extremity of the parade
ground, received orders to march past in single file from the right of
companies at a long trot, and re-form again at the end of the square.

" Nothing conceivable coul^ be more wild or fantastic than the sight
which ensued ; the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat skins depend-
ing from their girdles, and smeared with war colors, according to the
taste of the individual; one-half of the body red or black, the other blue,
not in regular order ; as, for instance, one stocking would be red, and the
other black, whilst the breeches above would be the opposite colors, and
so with the sleeves and waistcoat. Every man carried the same arms,
two spears and one shield, held as if approaching an enemy, and they
thus moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen or twenty
paces asunder, with the same high action and elongated step, the ground
leg only being bent, to give their strides the greater force.

"After the men had all started, the captains of companies followed,
even more fantastically dressed ; and last of all came the great Colonel
Congow, a perfect Robinson Crusoe, with his long white-haired goat-
skins, a fiddle-shaped leather shield, tufted with hair at all six extremities,
bands of long hair tied below the knees, and a magnificent helmet
covered with rich beads of every color in excellent taste, surmounted
with a plume of crimson feathers, in the centre of which rose a bent stem
tufted with goat's hair. Next, they charged in companies to and fro, and
finally the senior officers came charging at their king, making violent
professions of faith and honesty, for which they were applauded. The
parade then broke up, and all went home."

Distributing Rewards.

At these reviews, the king distributes rewards and metes out his pun-
ishments. The scene is equally stirring and terrible. As the various
officers come before the king, they prostrate themselves on the ground,
and after going through their elaborate salutation, they deliver their
reports as to the conduct of the men under their command. To some
are given various presents, with which they go off rejoicing, after floun-
dering about on the ground in the extremity of their gratitude ; while
others are seized by the ever-officious pages, bound, and dragged off to
execution, the unfortunate men struggling with their captors, fighting,
and denying the accusation, until they are out of hearing. As soon as
the king thinks that he has had enough of the business, he rises
abruptly, picks up his spears, and goes off, leading his dog with him.

Ilf'

1,5 'I »

It J ,

nS6

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The native account of the origin of the Waganda kingdom is very
curious. According to them, the country which is now called Uganda
was previously united with Unyoro, a more northerly kingdom. Ei^ht
generations back there came from Unyoro a hunter named Uganda, brin<T-
ing with him a spear, a shield, a woman, and a pack of dogs. He began
to hunt on the shores of the lake, and was so successful that he was
joined by vast numbers of the people, to whom he became a chief.

Under his sway, the hitherto .scattered people assumed the character of
a nation, and began to feel their strength. Their leading men then held
a council on their government, and determined on making Uganda their
king. " For," said they, " of what avail to us is the king of Unyoro ?
He is so far distant that, when we sent him a cow as a present, the cow
had a calf, and that calf became a cow and gave birth to another calf, and
yet the present has not reached the king. Let us have a king of our
own." So they induced Uganda to be their king, changed his name to
Kimera, and assigned his former name to the country.
' Foundings a King^clom.

Kimera, thus made king, took his station on a stone and showed him-
self to his new subjects, having in his hand his spears and shield, and
being accompanied by a woman and a dog ; and in this way all succeed-
ing kings have presented themselves to their subjects. All the Waganda
are, in consequence, expected to keep at least two spears, a shield and a
dog, and the officers are also entitled to have drums. The king of Unyoro
heard of the new monarch, but did not trouble himself about a move-
ment at such a distance, and so the kingdom of Uganda became an
acknowledged reality.

However, Kimera organized his people in so admirable a manner, that
he became a perfect terror to the king of Unyoro, and caused him to
regret that, when Kimera's power was not yet consolidated, he had not
crushed him. Kimera formed his men into soldiers, drafted them into
different regiments, drilled and organized them thoroughly. He cut roads
through his kingdom, traversing it in all directions. He had whole fleets
of boats built, and threw bridges over rivers v/herever they interrupted
his line of road. He descended into the minutest particulars of domestic
polity, and enforced the strictest sanitary system throughout his country,
not even suffering a house to be built unless it possessed the means of
cleanliness.

Organization, indeed, seems now to be implanted in the Waganda
mind. Even the mere business of taking bundles of wood into the pal-
ace must be done in military style. After the logs are carried a certain

•»i

STANLEYS GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

387

distance, the men charge up hill with walking sticks at the slope, to the
sound of the drum, shouting and chorusing. On reaching their officer,
they drop on their knees to salute, by saying repeatedly in one voice
the word ** n'yans " (thanks). Then they go back, charging down hill,
stooping simultaneously to pick up the wood, till step by step, it taking
several hours, the neatly cut logs are regularly stacked in the palace
yards.

Each officer of the district would seem to have a different mode of
drill. The Wazeewah, with long sticks, were remarkably well-disciplined,
sliDuting and marching all in regular time, every club going through the
.^ame movement ; the most attractive part of the drill being when all
crouched simultaneously, and then advanced in open ranks, swinging
their bodies to the roll of their drums.

By such means Kimera soon contrived to make himself so powerful
that his very name was dreaded throughout Unyoro, into which country
he was continually making raids. If, for example, at one of his councils
he found that one part of his dominions was deficient in cattle or women,
he ordered one or two of his generals to take their troops into Unyoro,
and procure the necessary number. In order that he might always have
the means of carrying his ideas into effect, the officers of the army are
expected to present themselves at the palace as often as they possibly
can, and, if they fail to do so, they are severely punished ; their rank is
taken from them ; their property confiscated, and their goods, their wives,
and their children are given to others.

A Kiii£f Placed in an Oven to Dry.

In f jct, Kimera proceeded, on a system of reward and punishment :
the former he meted ouv with a liberal hand ; the latter was certain, swift,
and terrible. In process of time Kimera died, and his body was dried
by being placed over an oven. When it was quite dry, the lower jaw
was removed and covered with beads ; and this, together with the body,
were placed in tombs, and guarded by the deceased monarch's favorite
women, who were prohibited even from seeing his successor.

After Kimera's death, the people proceeded to choose a king from
among his many children, called " Warangira," or princes. The king
fleet was very young, and was separated from the others who were
placed in a suite of huts under charge of a keeper. As soon as the
young prince reached years of discretion, he was publicly made king,
and at the same time all his brothers except two were burned to death.
The tvvo were allowed to live in case the new king should die before he
had any sons, and also as companions for him. As soon as the line of

S88

WONDERS OF THE TROt»ICS.

J J,

'Ir^H ^^"

direct succession was secured, one of the brothers was banished into
Unyoro, and the other allowed to live in Uganda.

' When Stanley saw Mtesa he was an elderly man, but when Captains
Speke and Grant arrived in Uganda, he was about twenty-five years of
■i^e, and, although he had not been formally received as king, wielded a
power as supreme as if he had passed through this ceremony. He was
•vise enough to keep up the system which had been bequeathed to him
by his aiicestors, and the Uganda kingdom was even more powerful in
his time than it had been in the days of Kimera. A close acquaintance
proved that his personal character was not a pleasant one, as indeed was
likely when it is remembered that he had possessed illimitable power
ever since he was quite a boy, and in consequence had never known con-
tradiction.

He was a very fine-looking young man, and possessed in perfection
the love of dress, which is so notable a feature in the character of the
Waganda. They are so fastidious in this respect, that for a man to
appear untidily dressed before his superiors would entail severe punish-
ment, while, if he dared to present himself before the king with the least
disorder of apparel, immediate death would be the result. Even the
royal pages, who rush about at full speed when performing their com-
missions, are obliged to hold their skin cloaks tightly round them, lest
any portion of a naked limb should present itself to the royal glance.

Stniking^ Dress and Appearance.

The appearance of Mtesa is described as follows : — " A more theatrical
sight I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well- formed young man
of twenty-five, was sitting upon a red blanket, spread upon a square plat-
form of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously dressed in
a new 'mbugu (or grass-cloth). The hair of his head was cut short,
except upon the top, where it was combed up into a high rid'ge, running
from stem to stern, like a cock's comb. On his neck was a very neat
ornament — a large ring of beautifully-worked small beadr, forming
♦elegant patterns by their various colors. On one arm was another bead
ornament, prettily devised, and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a
string covered with a snake skin. On every finger and toe he had alter-
nate brass and copper rings, and above the ankles, half-way up the calf, a
stocking of very pretty beads.

" Everything was light, neat, and elegant in its way ; not a fault could
be found with the taste of his ' getting-up.' For a handkerchief, he had
a well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of gold-embroidered silk, which
he constantly employed to hide his large mouth when laughing, or to wipe

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

389

it after a drink of plantain wine, of which he took constant and copious
draughts from little gourd cups, administered by his ladies in waiting,
who were at once his sisters and his wives. A white dog, spear, shield,
and woman — the Uganda cognizance — were by his side, as aLo a host of
staff officers, with whom he kept up a brisk conversation, on one side;
and on the other was a band of * Wichwezi,' or lady sorcerers."

These women are indispensable appendages to the court, and almond
the king wherever he goes, their office being to avert the e;'il eye from

WILD FREAKS OF A FEMALE SORCERER.

their monarch, and to pour the plantain wine into the royal cups. Ta^ty
are distinguished by wearing dried lizards on their heads, and on theM
belts are fastened goat-skin aprons, edged with little bells.

Mtesa's palace is of enormous dimensions, and almost deserves the
name of a village or town. It occupies the whole side of a hill, and con-
sists of streets of huts arranged as methodically as the houses of an
American town, the line being preserved by fences of the tall yellow tiger-
grass of Uganda. There are also squares and open spaces, and the whole
is kept in perfect order and neatness. The inner courts are entered by

ii,

il;^

390

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

means of gates, each gate being kept by an oflRcer, who permits no one
to pass who has not the icing's permission. In case his vigilance should
be evaded, each gate has a bell fastened to it on the inside.

How the Klngr Receives Visitors.

The mode of welcoming strangers is as follows : Under the shade of
the hut the monarch is seated on his throne, having on one side the
spears, shield, and dog, and on the other the woman, these being the
accompaniments of royalty. Some of his pages are seated near him, with
their cord turbans bound on their tufted heads, ready to obey his slightest
word. Immediately in front are some soldiers saluting him, and one of
them, to whom he has granted some favor, is floundering on the ground,
thanking, or " n'yanzigging," according to the custom of the place. On
the other side is the guest, a man of rank, who is introduced by the oflficer
of the gate. The door itself, with its bells, is drawn aside, and over the
doorway is a rope, on which are hung a row of charms. The king's pri-
vate band is seen in the distance, performing with its customary vigor.

The architecture of the huts within these enclosures is wonderfully
good, the Waganda having great natural advantages, and making full
use of them. The principal material in their edifices is reed, which in
Uganda grows to a very great height, and is thick and strong in the
stem. Grass for thatching is also found in vast quantities, and there is
plenty of straight timber for the rafters. The roof is double, in order to
exclude the sunbeams, and the outer roof comes neatly to the ground on
all sides. The fabric is upheld by a number of poles, from which are
hung corn-sack , meat, and other necessaries.

The interior is separated into two compartments by a high screen
made of plantain leaf, and within the inner apartment the cane bedstead
of the owner is placed. Yet, with all this care in building, there is only
one door, and no window or chimney; and although the Waganda keep
their houses tolerably clean, the number of dogs which they keep fill
their huts with fleas, so that when a traveller takes possession of a house,
he generally has the plantain screen removed, and makes on the floor as
large a fire as possible, so as to exterminate the insect inhabitants.

Royal Ceremonies.

The ceremonies of receiving a royal guest are as ejaborate as th«
architecture. Officers of rank step forward to greet him, while musicians
are in attendance, playing on the various in.struments of Uganda, most of
them being similar to those which have already been described. Even
the height of the seat on which the visitor is to place himself is rigor-
ously determined, the chief object seeming to be to force him to take a

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

391

seat lower than that to which he is entitled. In presence of the king,
who sits on a chair or throne, no subject is allowed to be seated on any-
thing higher than the ground ; and if he can be induced to sit in the
blazing sunbeams, and wait until the king is pleased to see him, a triumpk
of diplomacy has been secured.

When the king has satisfied himself with his guest, or thinks that he
is tired, he rises without any warning, and marches off to his room, using
the peculiar gait affected by the kings of Uganda, and supposed to be
imitated from the walk of the lion. To the eyes of the Waganda, the
" lion's step," as the peculiar walk is termed, is very majestic, but to the
•eyes of an American it is simply ludicrous, the feet being planted widely
apart, and the body swung from side to side at each step.

After Mtesa had received his white visitor, he suddenly rose and
retired after the royal custom, and, as etiquette did not permit him to eat
until he had seen his visitors, he took the opportunity of breaking his
fast.

The Waganda are much given to superstition, and have a most implicit
faith in charms. The king is vexy rich in charms, and, whenever he
holds his court, has vast numbers of them suspended behind him, besides
those which he carries on his person. These charms are made of almost
anything which the magician chooses to select. Horns filled with
magic powder are perhaps the most common, and these are slung on the
neck or tied on the head if small, and kept in the huts if large.

Famous Water-Spirit.

Their great object of superstitious dread is a sort of water-spirit, which
is supposed to inhabit the lake, and to wreak his vengeance upon those
who disturb him. Like the water-spirits of the Rhine, this goblin has
supreme jurisdiction, not only on the lake itself, but in all rivers that
communicate with it ; and the people are so afraid of this aquatic demon,
that they would not allow a sounding-line to be thrown into the water,
lest perchance the weight should happen to hit the water-spirit and
enrage him. The name of this .spirit is M'gussa, and he communicates
with the people by means of his own special minister or priest, who lives
on an island, and is held in nearly as much awe as his master.

Mtesa once took Captain Speke with him to see the magician. He
took also a number of his wives and attendants, and it was very amusing,
when the}' reached the boats, to see all the occupants jump into the
water, ducking their heads so as to avoid seeing the royal women, a stray
glance being sure to incur immediate death. They proceeded to the
island on which the wizard lived.

392

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

" Proceeding now through the trees of this beautiful island, we next
turned into the hut of the M'gussa's familiar, which at the further end
was decorated with many mystic symbols, among them a paddle, the
badge of high office ; and for some time we sat chatting, when pombe
was bi ought, and the spiritual medium arrived. He was dressed Wich-
wczi fashion, with a little white goatskin apron, adorned with various
charm.s.tind used a paddle for a walking-stick. He was not an old man,
though he affected to be so, walking very slowly and deliberately, cough-
ing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and mumbling like a witch.
With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of the hut, beside the
symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing full half an hour, when
his wife came in in the same manner, without saying a word, and assumed
the same affected style.

" The king jokingly looked at me and laughed, and then at these
strange creatures by turns, as much as to say, * What do you think of
them ? ' but no voice was heard, save that of the old wife, who croaked
like a frog for water, and, when some was brought, croaked again because
it was not the purest of the lake's produce — had the first cup changed,
wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled away in the same manner
as she had come."

Worshippiugr With Drums and Horos.

On their pathways and roads, which are very numerous and well kept,
they occasionally place a long stick in the ground, with a shell or other
charm on the top, or suspend the shell on the overhanging branch of a
tree. Similar wands, on a smaller scale, are kept in the houses, and bits
of feathers, rushes, and other articles arc tied behind the door. Snake-
skin is of course much used in making these charms, and a square piece
of this article is hung round the neck of almost ever^ lan of this country.

The religion of the Waganda is of course one inspired by terror, and
not by love, the object of all their religious rites being to avert the anger
of malignant spirits. Every new moon has its own peculiar worship,
which is conducted by banging drums, replenishing the magic horns,
and other ceremonies too long to describe. The most terrible of their
rites is that of human sacrifice, which is usually employed when the
king desires to look into the future.

The victim is always a child, and the sacrifice is conducted in a most
cruel manner. Having discovered by his incantations that a neighbor
is projecting war, the magician flays a young child, and lays the bleeding
body in the path on which the soldiers pass to battle. Each warrior
steps over the bleeding body, and thereby is supposed to procure immu-

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

393

nity for himself in the approaching battle. When the king makes war, *
his chief magician uses a still more cruel mode of divination. He takes
a large earthern pot, half fills it with water, and then places it over the
fireplace. On the mouth of the pot he lays a small platform of crossed
sticks, and having bound a young child and a fowl, he lays them on the
platform, covering them with another pot, which he inverts over them.
The fire is then lighted, and suffered to burn for a given time, when the
upper pot is removed, and the victims inspected. If they should both be
dead, it is taken as a sign that the war must be deferred for the present ;
but if either should be alive, war may be made at once.

Character of the Afirican.

How the Negro has lived so many ages without advancing seems mar-
vellous, when all the countries surrounding Africa are so forward in com-
parison. And, judging from the progressfve state of the world, one is
led to suppose that the African must soon either step out from his dark-
ness, or be superseded by a being superior to himself. The African neither
can help himself nor be helped by others, because his country is in .
such a constant state of turmoil that he has too much anxiety on hand
looking out for his food to think of anything else.

As his fathers did, so does he. He works his wife, sells his children,
enslaves all he can lay hands on, and, unless when fighting for the prop-
erty of others, contents himself with drinking, singing, and dancing like
a baboon, to drive dull care away. A few only make cotton cloth, or
work in wool, iron, copper, or salt, their rule being to do as little as pos-
sible, and to store up nothing beyond the necessaries of the next season,
lest their chiefs or neighbors should covet and take it from them.

There are many kinds of ft>od which the climate afifords to anyone of
ordinary industry, such as horned cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, fowls, ducks,
and pigeons, not to mention the plantain and other vegetable products,
and with such stores of food at his command, it is surprising that the
black man should be so often driven to feed on wild herbs and roots,
dogs, cats, rats, snakes, lizards, insects, and other similar animals, and
should be frequently found on the point of starvation, and be compelled
to sell his own children to procure food. Moreover, there are elephants,
rhinoceroses, hippopotami, buffaloes, giraffes, antelopes, guinea-fowls,
and a host of other animals, which can be easily captured in traps or
pitfalls, so that the native African lives in the midst of a country which
produces food in boundless variety. The reasons for such a phenomenon
are simple enough, and may be reduced to two, — namely, utter want of
foresight and constitutional indolence.

* i

■S)

>■ « „ ;,' K

(894)

STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA.

39»

Mtesa took a deliberate view of Stanley, as if studying him, while the
compliment was reciprocated, since the latter was no less interested in the
king. After the audience Stanley repaired to his hut and wrote the fol-
lowing : " As I had read Speke's book for the sake of its geographical
information, 1 retained but a dim remembrance of his description of his
life in Uganda. If I remember rightly, Speke described a youthful prince,
vain and heartless, a wholesale murderer and tyrant, one who delighted
in fat women. Doubtless he described what he saw, but it is far from
being the state of things now. Mtesa has impressed me as being an
intelligent and distinguished prince, who, if aided in time by virtuous
philanthropists, will do more for Central Africa than fifty years of Gospel
teaching, unaided by such authority, can do.

■ • ' ' Stanley's !Estimate of Mtesa. i

" I think I see in him the light that shall lighten the darkness of this
benighted region ; a prince well worthy the most hearty sympathies that
Europe can give him. In this man I see the possible fruition of Living-
stone's hopes, for with his aid the civilization of Equatorial Africa
becomes feasible. I remember the ardor and love which animated Living-
stone when he spoke of Sekeletu ; had he seen Mtesa, his ardor and love
had been for him tenfold, and his pen and tongue would have been
employed in calling all good men to assist him."

Five days later Stanley added to his observations the following: " I see
that Mtesa is a powerful emperor, with great influence over his neighbors.
I have to-day seen the turbulent Mankorongo.king of Usui, and Mirambo.
that terrible phantom who disturbs men's minds in Unyamwezi, through
their embassies, kneeling and tendering their tribute to him. I saw over
three thou.sand soldiers of *^Itesa nearly half-civilized. I saw about a
hundred chiefs who might be classed in the same scale as the men
of Zanzibar and Oman, clad in as rich robes, and armed in the same
fashion, and have witnessed with astonishment such order and law as is
obtainable in semi-civilized countries. All this is the result of a poor
Muslim's labor ; his name is Muley bin Salim. He it was who first began
teaching here the doctrines of Islam. False and contemptible as these
doctrines are, they are preferable to the ruthless instincts of a savage des-
pot, whom Speke and Grant left wallowing in the blood cf women, and I
honor the memory of Muley bin Salim — Muslim and slave-trader though
he be — the poor priest who has wrought this happy change. With a
strong desire to improve still more the character of Mtesa, I shall begin
buildmg on the foundation stones laid by Muley bin Salim. I shall de-
destroy his belief in Islam, and teach the doctrines of Jesus of Nazareth."

,J). ;

'1 (

ill

1;'

396

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Col. Long, an officer of the Egyptian army under Gen. Gordon, had
visited Mtesa nearly a year previous to Stanley's arrival, and he describes
the emperor as exceedingly fierce and brutal, altogether different from
Stanley's conceptions of the great African ruler. Col. Long travelled on
horseback from Gondokoro to Mtesa's capital, and as the horse is an
unknown animal in Central Africa, the natives at first supposed that the
gallant Colonel and his steed were united in some mysterious manner,
and concluding from this that he was an extraordinary being they gave
him an unusually grand reception. Mtesa ordered thirty human beings to
be slain in honor of his visit, the victims being selected from among pris-
oners captured in war. Col. Long, being unaccompanied except by a few
native servaiits, did not consider it prudent to interfere with the shocking
ceremony, but was compelled to be an unwilling witness of this horrible
deed.

At a later period a change came over the king. Mtesa conceived a
strong affection for Stanley, and repeatedly invited him to his palace,
where much of the time was devoted to a discussion of religion, and so
earnestly did Stanley relate the story of Christ's life and sufferings that
he won the king over from Mohammedanism to the Christian faith.

- •^--^ *t ..^.^ i* *4: -^l^

I I

' '^^^ CHAPTER XVIII. 1- . :

'' STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

Wiley Off for Victoria Nyanza — A Redoubtable General Who Had to be Put in Ironn— >
Stanley Received With August Cert monies by a King— The Great Mtesa Agrees-
to Join the Expedition — Tiie King's Wonderful Army— Splendid Battalions ol
W;iirioir — Native Hostilities on Foot— Repulse ol Mtesa's Proud Amiy — Stan-
ley's Cunning Device to Defeat the Enemy — Construction of a Terrible War-
boat — Proclamation of Amnesty to Those Who Will Surrender — The Stratagem
Successful— A Renowned Arab— Stanley Obtains the Aid of Tipo-tipo — Dreadful
Accounts of Ferocious Cannibals and Dwarfs With Poisoned Arrows — Tales
Rivalling the Stories of the "Arabian Nights" — Dwarfs That Scream Like De-
mons—Clouds of Arrows Filling the Air — Terrible Tales of Huge Pythons—
Numerot)s Leopards and 0*'ier Wild Beasts— Stories of Gorillas — Stanley's Con-
tract With Tipo-tipo— Arrival at Nyangwe — Livingston "'s Description of Nyang-
we's Renowned Market — Savage "Dudes" and Hard-working Women — An
Amusing Scene — New Journeys and Discoveries — Fierce Attack From Hostile
Natives— Engagement With Fifty-four Gun-boats— War Vessels Repulsed by
Stanley's Men — Fifty-seven Cataracts in a Distance of Eighteen Hundred Miles —
Five Months Co\ ering One Hundred and Eighty Miles — Death in the Boiling
Rapids — Men Hurried to a Yawning Abyss— Miraculous Escape of One of Stan-
ley's Men — Thrilling Adventure of Zaida — Rescued in the Nick of Time — Brave

J Frank Pocock Drowned — Stanley's Incontrollable Grief— Nearing the Mouth o(
the Congo and the Atlantic CoaF*— Stanley's Letter Appealing for Help— Quick ■
Response of White Men — Stanley's Letter of Grateful Thanks— Final Arrival at
the Long-sought Coast — Stanley s Fame Fills the World.

'TANLEY, after remaining some time with Mtesa, departed in Octo-
ber to explore the countrj' lying between Albert Nyanza
and the Victoria Nyanza. This time he had with him an escort
of Mtesa s men, under a "general" named Sambusi. The expe-
dition, after a pleasant march, came within a few miles of the Albert
Nyanza, but then the native warriors wished to return, and Stanley
yielded perforce. He returned, but the faint-hearted '' general " was pi't
in irons by Mtesa, whom he had shamed.

The expedition reached Mtesa's on the 23d of August, and the king
^received Stanley in his council chamber with great ceremony and many
Widences of friendship. Stanley took this occasion to inform him of
the object of his visit, which was to procure guides and an escort to
conduct him to Albert Lake. Mtesa replied that he was now engaged ia
a war with the rebellious people of Uvuma, who refused to pay their
tribute, harassed the coast of Chagwe and abducted his people, " selling

(897)

-I

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^jii'

^^lii.!-f^^l^.

W'^^:-:- { :

J,, v., ^.||,

898 V/ONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

> . •

them afterward for a few bunches of bananas," and that it was not cus-
tomary in Uganda to permit strangers to proceed on their journeys
while the king was engaged in war ; but as soon as peace should be
obtained he would send a chief WMth an army to give him safe conduct
by the shortest route to the lake. Being assured that the war would
not last long, Stanley resolved to stay and witness it as a novelty, and
cake advantage of the time to acquire information about the country and
its people.

On the 27th of August Mtesa struck his camp, and began the march
to Nakaranga, a point of land lying within seven hundred yards of the
island of Ingira, which had been chosen by the Wavuma as their depot
and stronghold. He had collected an army numbering 150,000 warriors
as it was expected that he would have to fight the rebellious WasoTa
as well as the Wavuma. Besides this great army must be reckoned nearly
50,000 women, and about as many children and slaves of both sexes, so
that at a rough guess, after looking at all the camps and various tributary
nations which, at Mtesa's command, had contributed their quotas, the
number of souls in Mtesa's camp must have been about 250,000!

King' Mtesa's Immense Army.
Stanley had the pleasure of reviewing this immen'-e army as it was put
in motion towards the battle-ground. He descnoes the officers and
troops in the following graphic style:

The advance-guard had departed too early for me to see them, bftt,
curious to see the main body of this great army pass, I stationed myself
at an early hour at the extreme limit of the camp.

First with his legion, came Mkwenda, who guards the frontier between
the Katonga valley and Willimiesi against the Wanyoro. He is a scout,
burly young man, brave as a lion, having much experience of wars, and
cunning and adroit in his conduct, accomplished with the spear, and
possessing, besides, other excellent fighting qualities. I noticed that the
Waganda chiefs, though Muslimized, clung to their war-paint and national
charms,- for each warrior, as he passed by on the trot, was most villain-
ously bedaubed with ochre and pipe-clay. The force under the command
of Mkwenda might be roughly numbered at 30,000 warriors and camp-
followers, and though the path was a mere goat-track, the rush of this
legion on the half-trot soon crushed out a broad avenue.

The old general Kangau, who defends the country between Willimiesi
and the Victoria Nile, came next with his following, their banners flying,
drums beating, and pipes playing, he and his warriors stripped for action,
their bodies an'' faces daubed with white, black, and ochreous war-paint

was not cus-
«eir journeys
;e should be
safe conduct
e war would
novelty, and
country and

m the march
yards of the
5 their depot
300 warriors,
ous VVasoga
coned nearly
)th sexes, so
3US tributary
■ quotas, the
000 !

IS it was put
officers and

them, bftt,
oned myself

ier between
e is a scout,
wars, and
spear, and
ed that the
nd national
ost villain-
command
and camp-
ush of this

Willimiesi

lers flying,

for action,

war-paint

f"' .a

(3i>9)

400

|i*' ■!

^^1

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Next came a rush of about 2,0(X) chosen warriors, all tall men, expert
with spear and shield, lithe of body and nimble of foot, shouting as they
trotted past their war-cry of " Kavya, kavy," " (the two last syllables of
Mtesa's title when young — Mukavya, " king"), and rattling their spears.
Behind them, at a quick march, came the musket-armed body-guard of
the emperor, about two hundred in front, a hundred on either side of
the road, enclosing Mtesa and his Katekiro, and two hundred bringing
up the rear, with their drums beating, pipes playing, and standards flying,
and forming quite an imposing and warlike procession.

Mtesa marched on foot, bare-headed, aild clad in a dress of blue check-
cloth, with a black belt of English make round his waist, and — like the
Roman emperors, who, when returning in triumph, painted their faces a
deep Vermillion — his face dyed a bright red. The Katekiro preceded
him, and wore a dark-grey cashmere coat. I think this arrangement
was made to deceive any assassin who might be lurking in the bushes.
If this was the case, the precaution seemed wholly unnecessary, as the
march was so quick that nothing but a gun would have been effective,
and the Wavuma and Wasoga have no such weapons.

After Mtesa's body-guard had passed by, chief after chief, legion after

legion, followed, each distinguished to the native ear by its different and

peculiar drum-beat. They came on at an extraordinary pace, more like

warriors hurrying up into action than on the march, and it is their

custom, I am told, to move always at a trot when on an enterprise of a

warlike nature.

Stanley's Terrible War-boat.

In the ensuing conflict King Mtesa's army was repulsed. Stanley
finally asked of him 2,000 men, telling him that with this number he
would construct a monster war-boat that would drive the enemy from
their stronghold. ^

This proposition gave Mtesa intense delight, for he had begun to enter-
tain grave doubts of being able to subjugate the brave rebels. The 2,000
men being furnished, Stanley set them to cutting trees and poles, which
were peeled and the bark used for ropes. He lashed three canoes, of
seventy feet length and six-and-a-half feet breadth, four feet from each
other. Around the edge of these he caused a stockade to be made of
strong poles, set in upright and then intertwined with smaller poles and
rope bark. This made the floating stockade seventy feet long and twenty-
seven feet wide, and so strong that spears could not penetrate it. This
novel craft floated with much grace, and as the men paddled in the spaces
between the boats they could not be perceived by the enemy, who

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSLNG AFRICA.

401

thought it must be propelled by some supernatural agency. It was
manned by two hundred and fourteen persons, and moved across the
channel like a thing of life.

As this terrible monster of the deep approached the enemy, Stanley
caused a proclamation to be made to them, in deep and awful tones, that
if they did not surrender at once their whole island would be blown to
pieces. The stratagem had the desired effect ; the Wavuma were terror-
•,':ricken and surrendered unconditionally. Two hours later they sent a
:anoe and fifty men with the tribute demanded. Thus ended the war and
preparations were at once made to advance.

The Celebrated Tipo-tipo.

Stanley turned toward Lake Tanganyika, and camped at Ujiji, where
he had met David Livingstone. Thence he journeyed to Nyangvve, the
farthest northern place attained by Cameron. Cameron had gone south
to Benguela.

While in the vicinity of Nyangwe, Stanley chanced to meet Tipo-tipo,
who had befriended Cameron while on his journey, having conducted;
him as far as Kasongo's country. From him he learned that Cameron
had been unable to explore the Lualaba, and thus the work which Liv-
ingstone had not been able to complete was as yet unfinished.

Not believing, as Livingstone did, that the Lualaba was the remote
southern branch of the Nile, but having the same conviction as Camr
cron that it was connected with the Congo, and was the eastern part ofl
that river, and having, what Livingstone and Cameron had not, an ample
force and sufficient supplies, he determined to follow the Lualaba, and
ascertain whither it led. He met with the same difficulty that Living-
stone and Cameron had encountered in the unwillingness of the people
to supply canoe.''.

Thty informed him, as they had the two previous explorers, that the
tribes dwelling to the north on the Lualaba were fierce and warlike can-
nibils, who would suffer no one to enter their territories, as the Arab
'laders had frequentiy found to their cost. That between Nyangwe and
ihe cannibal region the natives were treacherous, and that the river ran
through dreadful forests, through which he would have to make his way
, —information which afterward proved to be true.

Cannibals and Poisoned Arrows.

He nevertheless resolved to go; but it was not easily accomplished, as
the people of Nyangwe filled his followers with terror by the accounts
I hey gave of the ferocious cannibals, the dwarfs with poisoned arrows
who dwelt near the river, and the terrible character of the country

402

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

I'M

'.);

31'

"!Sl

'tf¥

through which they would have to pass ; which had such a dishearten-
ing effect upon them that difficulties arose which would have been insur-
mountable to any one but a man of Stanley's indomitable perseverance
sagacity and tact. He overcame all obstacles; succeeded in getting
canoes, and in engaging an Arab chief and his followers to accompany
him a certain distance; an increase of his force which gave confidence to
his own people.

Of course there was a good deal of palavering before the Arab could
be induced to join the expedition and brave the inevitable perils that
would attend it.

Tipo-tipo listened respectfully to Stanley's proposition, and then called
in one of his officers who had been to the far north along the river,
requesting him to impart such information as he possessed in regard to
the people inhabiting that country. This man told a marvellous tale
almost rivalling the wonderful creations of the Arabian Nights ; and
Stanley subsequently learned by his own experience that much of the
;stor}' was true.

Those Wonderful Dwarfs.

" The great river," said he, " goes always toward the north, until it
temptias into the sea. We first reached Uregga, a forest land, where there
is nothing but woods, and woods, and woods, for days and weeks and
•months. There was no end to the woods. In a month we reached
lUsongora Meno, and here we fought day after day. They are fearful
.fellows and desperate. We lost many men, and all who were slain were
(Caten. But we were brave, and pushed on. When we came to Kima-
Kima we heard of the land of the little men, where a tusk of ivory could
ibe purchased for a single cowrie (bead). Nothing now could hold us
Iback. We crossed the Lumami, and came to the land of the Wakuma
The Wakuma are big men themselves, but among them we saw some of
rthe dwarfs, the queerest little creatures alive, just a yard high, with long
'beards and large heads. The dwarfs seemed to be plucky little devils,
•rand asked us many questions about where we were going and what we
wanted. They told us that in their country was so much ivory we had
mot enough men to carry it ; 'but what do you want with it, do you eat
it ?' said they. ' No, we make charms of it, and will gi"C you beads to
show us theway.' ' Good, come along.'

"We followed the little devils six days, when we came to their country,
and they stopped and said we could go no further until they had seen
their king. Then they left us, and after three days they came back and
took U3 to thairvvillage, and gave us a house to live in. Then the dwarfs

' ii"

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

403

:h a dishearten-
have been insur-
le perseverance,
ided in getting
's to accompany
ve confidence to

the Arab could
:able perils that

I, and then called
ilong the river,
2d in regard to
narvellous tale
in Nights; and
at much of the

; north, until it

ind, where there

and weeks and

ith we reached

hey are fearful

were slain were

:ame to Kima-

of ivory could

could hold us

the Wakuma

e saw some of

igh, with long

cy little devils,

[ and what we

ivory we had

it, do you eat

you beads to

I their country,
they had seen
ime back and
^en the dwarfs

came from all parts. Oh ! it is a big country I and everybody brought
ivory, until we had about four hundred tusks, big and little, as much as
we could carry. We bought it with copper, beads, and cowries. No
cloths, for the dwarfs were all naked, king and all. We did not starve in
the dwarf land the first ten days. Bananas as long as my arm, and plan-
tains as long as the dwarfs were tall. One plantain was sufficient for e
man for one day.

"When we had sufficient ivory and wanted to go, the little king said
no ; * this is my country, and you shall not go until I say. You must
buy all I have got ; I want more cowries ;' and he ground his teeth and
looked just like a wild monkey. We laughed at him, for he was very
funny, but he would not let us go. Presently we heard a woman scream,
and rushing out of our house, we saw a woman running with a dwart's
arrow in her bosom. Some of our men shouted, ' The dwarfs are com-
ing from all the villages in great numbers j it is war — ^prepare I' V/e had
scarcely got our guns before the little wretches were upon us, shooting
their arrows in clouds. They screamed and yelled like monkeys. Their
arrows were poisoned, and many of our men who were hit, died.

Arabian Nights Outdone. *

" Our captain brandished his two-handed sword, and cleaved them as
you would cleave a banana. The arrows passed through his shirt in
many places. We had many good fellows, and they fought well ; but it
was of no use. The dwarfs were firing from the tops of the trees ; they
crept through the tall grass close up to us, and shot their arrows in our
faces. Then some hundred of us cut down banana-trees, tore doors out,
and houses down, and formed a boma at each end of the street, and then
we were a little better off, for it was not such rapid, random shooting ; we
fired more deliberately, and after several hours drove them off.

" But they soon came back and fought us all that night, so that we
could get no water, until our captain — oh ! he was a brave man, he was a
lion! — held up a shield before him, and looking around, he just ran
straight where the crowd war thickest ; and he seized two of the dwarfs,
and we who followed him caught several »nore, for they would not run
away until they saw what ou. design was, and then they left the watei
clear. We filled our pots and carried the little Shaitans (devils) into the
boma; and there we found that we had caught the king. We wanted to
kill him, but our captain said no, kill the others and toss their heads over
the wall ; but the king was not touched.

" Then the dwarfs wanted to make peace, but they were on us again in the
middle of the night, and their arrows sounded ' twit,' * twit ' in all direc-

(40^

STANLEYS PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

406

tions. At last we ran away, thiou - '"'wn everything but our guns
and swords. But many of our men wet o weak by hunger and thirst
that they burst their hearts running, and died. Others lying down tt^
rest found the little devils close to them when too late, and were killed
Out of our great number of people only thirty returned alive, and I am
one of them."

Stanley listened with rapt attention to the recital of this wonderful
story, and at its conclusion he said : " Ah ! good. Did you see any-
thing else very wonderful on your journey? "

*' Oh yes ! There are mpnstrous boa-constrictors in the forest of
Uregga, suspended by their tails to the branches, waiting for the passer-
by or for a stray antelope. The ants in that forest are net to be despised.
You cannot travel without your body being covered with them, when
they sting you like wasps. The leopards are so numerous that you can-
not go very far without seeing one. Almost every native wears a leopard-
skin cap. The sokos (gorillas) are in the woods, and woe befall the man
or woman met alone by them ; for they run to you and seize your hands,
and bite the fingers off one by one, and as fast as they bite one off, they
spit it out. The Wasongora Mcno and Waregga are cannibals, and
unless the force is very strong, they never let strangers pass. It isnotli-
ing but constant fighting. Only two years ago a party armed with three
hundred guns started north of Uspngora Meno ; they only brought sixty
guns back, and no ivory. If one tries to go by the river, there are falls
after falls, which carry the people over and down them."
MakiujjT a Contract with an Arab.

It requircvd no little heroism on the part of Stanley to face the dangers
which he knew must lie between him and that point one thousand eight
hundred miles distant, where the Congo, ten miles wide, rolls into the
broad bosom of the Atlantic. Notwithstanding all the dangers which
lay before them, Tip*b-tipo agreed to accompany Stanley with his soldiers,
the distance of sixty marches, for ^5,000. One would naturally suppose
that he, of all others, would shrink from such a task, seeing that in his
last effort to reach the unexplored territory beyond, he had lost five
hundred men.

The conditions under which he agreed to escort Stanley were, that the
sixty marches should not consume more than three months' time, and if,
when they had gone that distance, he should come to the conclusion
that he could not reach the mouth of the Congo, then he would return
to Nyangwe ; or, if he chanced to fall in with any Portuguese traders,
and desired to accompany them to the coast, he should give him (Tipo-

-3,.h4 ■:■■■■-'

j.'.t

1 ';

Ir: '
■/:||

406

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

tipo) two "birds of his force, as a guard to protect him while on his
return to Nyangwe. liut Stanley did not propose to have all the cdu-
ditions on the side of the chief, and after refusing to grant the chief two.
thirds of his force to protect him on his return, he made the followinj'
condition: Should Tipo-tipo fail to perform faithfully his part, and should
he through fear return before the sixty marches had been made, lit
should forfeit the ^5,000, and not be allowed a single man of Stanley's
force to accompany him on his return. After some delay the chii:!
assented to the contract as written by Stanley, and both men signed it.

Before it had been signed, however, Stanley went to Pocock and told
him just how matters stood, and showed him the dangers which must
attend any attempt to proceed, but could they do so, it would draw upon
the expedition the comments of the entire world. It was a fearful ri.k to
run, but Pocock resolved to stand by him, and before he had finished, the
latter replied, " Go on." Ah, they little knew when they made tliat
agreement, what fate awaited them in the near future. The men were
next informed of the determination to push on to the coast, and were told
that if at the end of sixty marches they fell in with traders going east-
ward, and they wished to return to Nyangwe, they could do so. The
men promised to lemain with him, and he hastened to complete his
arrangements. To do this he entered the village of Nyangwe.

A Keiiowiiecl Market.

The most interesting feature connected with the village is its market,
which has become a great institution in the district, t^very fourth day
is market-day, and on that day every one having anything to sell, or
wishing to purchase anything, repairs to Nyangwe, to " buy and sell and
get gain." " Every one," says Dr. Livingstone, *' is there in dead ear-
nest; little time is lost in friendly greetings. Vendors of fish run about
with little potsherds full of snails or small fishes — smoke-dried and spitted
on twigs — or other relishes, to exchange for cassava roots, dried aftjr
being steeped about three days in water; potatoes, vegetables, or grain,
bananas, flour, palm-oil, fowls, salt, pepper, all are bartered back and
forth in the same manner. Each individual is intensely anxious to trade;
those who have other articles are particularly eager to barter them for
relishes, and are positive in their assertions of the goodness or badness
of each article as market-people seem to be in conscience bound to be
2verywhere.

" The sweat may be seen standing in great beads on their faces. Cocks,
hanging with their heads down across their shoulders, contribute their
bravest crowing, and pigs squeal their loudest. Iron knobs, drawn out

vhile on his

; all the con-
ic chief two.
he fulio'.vin '
:, and should
:n made, he
of Stanley's
»y the chic!

signed it.
ck and told
which nuisl
1 draw upon
earful ri. k to
finished, thf

made lliat
: men were
id were told

going east-
lo so. The
^mplete his

its market,
burth day
to sell, or
id sell and
dead ear-
run about
and s[)ittcd
dried aftjr
1, or grain,
back and
IS to trade;
them for
r badness
amd to be

I. Cocks,
)utc their
Iravvn out

1 f>.

(407)

"mi^

I, .' i

108

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

at each end to sliow the goodness of the metal, are exchanged for cloth
of the Muabe palm. They have a large funnel of basket-work below tlu'
vessel holding the wares, "d slip the goods down if they are not to be
seen. They dealt fairly, and when differences arose they were easily
settled by the men interfering or pointing to me; they appeal to each
other, and have a strong sense of natural justice.

Gay Men aud Hard- wor kin gr Women.

" With so much fooJ changing hands amongst the three thousanc
attendamiG, jT;Mch benefit is derived; some come from twenty to twenty-
five miles. The men flaunt about in gaudy-colored lambas of many
folded kilts — the women work the hardest — the potters slap and rin-^
their earthenware all around, to show that there is not a single flaw in
them. I bought two finely-shaped earthen bottles of porous earthen-
ware, to hold a gallon each, for one string of beads ; the women can v
whole loads of them in their funnels above the baskets, strapped to the
shoulders and forehead, and their bands are full besides ; the roundness
of these vessels is wonderful, seeing no machine is used: no slaves could
be induced to carry half as much as they do willingly. It is a scene of
the finest natural acting im?ginable.

"The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions are made — the eager
earnestness with which apparently all creation, above, around, and
beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what they allege — and then
the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on those who despise their
goods; but they show no concern when the buyers turn up their noses
at them. Little girls run about selling cups of watt, for a few small
fishes to the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was an amus-
ing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off their glib
tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to need interpretation."

The village itself is ruled by two chiefs from neighboring districts.
Sheikh Abed, who is represented as being a tall, thin old man. having ?
white beard, rules the lower or southern section of the town, while Muini
Dugumbi, an Arab trader, is chief over the upper or northern portion
The latter was the first to settle in the place, having done so in iSCcS
when he drove out the original inhabitants of the place, and e.stablishcc
his harem, which was composed of more than three hundred sla\e-
women.

Stanley remained here until the 5th of November, when, having bee-
joined by Tipo-tipo with seven hundred men, he set out upon his journey.

Stanley now carried the "Lady Alice" across the 350 miles which
intervened between Ujiji and Nyangwe, which is situated on the Lualaba

>>1

PERILOUS DESCENT OF THE KAPIDS.

(409)

1 ./ ■-■ ■.

}■■'.

• .i

;

■ -Im

if
■1,1

410

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

(of Livingstone), which Stanley as well as Cameron- believcJ i^as a branch
of the Congo. We shall now follow Stanley briefly in 1 is discovery
along that river, which he had determined to explore.

On the 5th November he set out. He reinforced his f blowing, and
took supplies for six months. He had with him 140 riPjs and seventy
spearmen and could defy the warlike tribes of which iie had heard so
much, and he made up his mind to " stick to the Li .ilaba fair or foul!'
For three weeks he pushed his way along the Janks, meeting with
tremendous diff'''v.!.Lc, till ~" became dishf^.^cened. Stanley said he
would try the river. The " Lady Alice " was put together and launched,
and then the leader declared he would never quit it until he reached the
sea. "All I ask," said he to his men, "is that you follow me in the
name of God."

" In the name of God, master, we will follow you," they replied. They
did, bravely.

Ferocious Attacks by Hostile Natives.

A skirmish occurred at the outset, by the Ruiki river, and then the
Ukassa rapids were reached. These were pissed in safety, one portion
of the expedition on the bank, the remainder in canoes. So the journey
continued, but under very depressing circumstances, for the natives, when
not hostile, openly left their villages, and would hold no communication
with the strangers. Sickness was universal. Small-pox, dysentery, and
^ '..her diseases raged, amd every day a body or tw > was tossed into the
river. A canoe was found, repaired, and constituted the hospital, and so
was towed down stream. On the 8th December a skirmish occurred,
but speedily ended in the defeat of the savages, who had used poisoned
arrows. At Vinya-Njara again, another, serious fight ensued, the savages
rushing against the stockides which sur rounded the camp, and displaying
great determination. The attack wa? resumed at night. At daybreak, a
part of the native town was occupied, and there again the fighting was
continued. The village was held, but the natives were still determined
and again attacked ; the arrows fell in clusters, and it was a very critical
time for the voyagers.

Fortunately the land division arrived and settled the matter; the sav-
a:jes disappeared, and the marching detachment united with Stanley's
crews. That night Pocock was sent oi't to cut away the enemy's canoes,
and that danger was over. But now the Arab escort which had joined
.Stanley at Nyangwe became rebellious, and infected the rest. Stanley
feared that all his people would mutiny, but he managed them with a
firm and friendly hand. So that danger passed. All this time the pec-

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

411

vcJ rasa branch
in 1 is discovery
ifi
lis f >llowing, anc
iP js and seventy
iie had heard so
iba fair or foul !'
s, meeting with
Stanley said he
ler and launched,
1 he reached the
follow me in the

y replied. They

/er, and then the

fety, one portion

So the journey

|he natives, when

communication

dysentery, and

tossed into the

hospital, and so

mish occurred,

used poisoned

ed, the savages

, and displaying

At daybreak, a

lie fighting wae

Itill determined.

a very critical

■-,'■

latter; the sav-

with Stanley's

Inemy's canoes,

|ich had joined

rest. Stanley

them with a

time the peo-

ple had been dying of fever, small-pox, and poisoned arrows, and the
constant attacks of the enemy prevented burial of the dead or attendance
on the sick and wounded.

On the 26th of December, after a merry Christmas, considering the
circumstances, the expedition embarked, 149 in all, and not one deserted
To-morrow would echo the cry " Victory or Death." The explorers
passed into the portals of the Unknown, and on 4th January they
reached a series of cataracts, now named Stanley Falls. This was a can-
nibal country, and the man-eaters hunted the voyagers "like game."
For four and twenty days the conflict continued, fighting, foot by foot,
the forty miles or so whirli were covered by the cataracts, and which the
expedition had to follow by land, foraging, fighting, encamping, drag-
ging the fleet of canoes, all the time with their lives in their hands, cut-
ting their way through the forest and their deadly enemies.

Attack of War-vessels Repulsed by Stanley*8 Men.

Yet as soon as he had avoided the cannibals on land, they came after
him on the water. A flotilla of fifty-four canoes, some enormous vessels,
with a total of nearly two thousand warriors, were formidable obstacles
in the way. But gun-powder won the day, and the natives were dis-
persed with great loss, the village plundered of its ivory, which was very
plentiful, and the expedition in all this lost only one man, making the
sixteenth since the expedition had left Nyangwe.

Some of the cataracts Stanley describes as magnificent, the current
boiling and leaping in brown waves six feet high. The width in places
is 2,000 and .i,;,oo feet, narrowing at the falls. After the great naval
battle, Stanley found friendly tribes who informed him the river, the
Lualaba, which he had named the Livingstone, was surely the Congo, or
the River of Congo. Here was a great geographical secret now dis-
closed, and success seemed certain. It was attained, but at a great price,
as we shall see. Moie battles followed the peaceful days; then the
friendly tribc= were again met with, and so on, until the warfare with
man ceased, and the struggle with the Congo began in earnest.

There are fifty-seven cataracts and rapids in the course of the river
from Nyangwe to the ocean, a distance of eighteen hundred miles. One
portion of one hundred and eighty miles took the explorerj^ five months.
The high cliffs and the dangerous banks required the greatest caution to
pass, and had Stanley not determined to cling to the river ; had he led
his mjn by land past the cataract region, he would have done better, as
the events prove. During that terrible passage he lost precious Uves,
including the brave Pocock and Kalulu— the black boy.

(412)

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

413

March 1 2th found them in a wide reach of the river, named Stanley
Pool, and below that they " for the first time heard the low and sullen
thunder of the Livingstone Falls." From this date the river was the
chief enemy, and at the cataracts the stream flows " at the rate of thirty
miles an hour!" The canoes suffered or were lost in the " cauldron,"
and portages became necessary. The men were hurt also ; even Stanley
had a fall, and was half stunned. There were sundry workers, and
St venteen canoes remaining on 27th of March. The descent was made
along shore below Rocky Island Falls, and in gaining the camping-place
Kalulu, in the " Crocodile" canoe, was lost. This boat got into mid-
stream, and went gliding over the smooth, swift river to destruction.
Nothing could save it or its occupants. It whirled round three or four
limes, plunged into the depths, and Kalulu and his canoe-mates were no
more. Nine men, including others in other canoes, were lost that day.
** A Groan of Horror Burst From Us."
Says Stanley : " I led the way down the river, and in five minutes was
in a new camp in a charming cove, with the cataract roaring loudly about
500 yards below us. A canoe came in soon after with a gleeful crew,
and a second one also arrived safe, and I was about congratulating
myself for having done a good day's work, when the long canoe which
Kalulu had ventured in was seen ii mid-river, rushing w^th the sperd of
a flying spear towards destruction. A grcan of horror burst from us as
we rushed to the rocky point which shut the cove from view of the
river. When we had reached the point, the canoe was half-way over the
first break of the cataiact, and was then just beginning that fatal circling
in the whirlpool below. We saw them signalling to us for help; but alas!
what could we do there, with a cataract between us ? We never saw
them more. A paddle was picked up about forty miles below, which we
identified as belonging to the unfortunate coxswain, and that was all."

Stanley felt this loss keenly, for he loved Kalulu almost like a younger
brother. The boy had been presented to him by the Arabs of Unyan-
yembe on the occasion of his first visit there in search of Livingstone.
He was then a mere child, but very bright and quick for one of his race
md age. Stanley took him to the United States where he attended
ichool eighteen months, and rapidly developed into an intelligent and
quick-witted youth. When Stanley was preparing for his second expe-
dition Kalulu begged to be allowed to accompany him, and he cheer-
fully granted his request. His untimely death made so deep an impres-
sion upon Stanley that he named the fatal cataract Kalulu Falls in honor
of his memory.

414

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Three out of the four men contained in the boat were especial favor-
ites of Stanley, They had been deceived by the smooth, glassy appear-
ance of the river, and had pulled out boldly into the middle of it, only
to meet a dreadful fate. Even while they gazed upon the spot where the
frail craft was last seen upon the edge of the brink, another canoe came
into sight, and was hurried on by the swift current towards the yawning
abyss. As good fortune would have it, they struck the falls at a point
less dan jerou.s than that struck by the unfortunate Kalulu, and passed
them in safety. Then they worked the canoe closer to the shore, and
springing overboard, sAvam to the land. If those yet to come were to be
deceived by the appearance of the river, Stanley saw that he was destined
to lose the greater part of his men. In order to prevent so sad a calam-
ity, he sent messengers up the river to tell those yet to come down to
keep close to the shore. Before they had time to reach those above,
another canoe shot into sight, and was hurried on to the edge of the
precipice. It contained but one person — the lad Soudi, who, as he shot
by them, cried out : " There is but one God — I am lost, master." The
next instant he passed over the falls. The canoe, after having passed the
falls, did not sink, but was whirled round and round by the swift current,
and was at last swept out of sight behind a neighboring island. The
remainder of the canoes succeeded in reaching the camp in safety.

Miraculous Rescue of Soudi.

The natives at this point proved very friendly, and exchanged provis-
ions for beads and wire. Having obtained all the provisions that they
could conveniently carry, they prepared to start, and on the first of April
succeeded in passing round the dangerous falls, when they again went
into camp. A great surprise awaited them here. They had scarcely
pitched their tents, when to their great surprise Soudi suddenly walked
into the camp. It was as though one had indeed risen from the dead,
and for a few minutes they could scarcely realize that it was the real
Soudi that they beheld, and not his ghost. Great was their joy when the
lad assured them that it was himself and not his spirit that they saw.

Seated around their camp they listened to the strange tale that the boy
had to tell him. He had been carried over the falls, and when he reached
the bottom he was somewhat stunned by the shock, and did not fully
recover his senses until the boat struck against a large rock ; he then
jumped out and swam ashore. He had hardly placed his foot upon the
land before he was seized by two men, who bound him hand and foot,
and carried him to the top of a large mountain near by. They then
stripped him, and examined him with great curiosity. On the day fol-

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

415

lowing, a large number of the tribe who dwelt upon the mountain came
to see him, and among them was one who had previously visited Stan-
ley's camp, and knew that Soudi was attached to his force.

He told them great stories about Stanley, how terrible he was, and
what strange arms he carried, which were so arranged that they could be
fired all day without stopping, and ended by telling them that if they
wished to escape his fury, they had better return the boy to the place
from which they had taken him. Terrified by such tales, these men at
once carried Soudi to the place where they had found him, and after
iiaving told him to speak a good word for them to his master, departed.
He at once swam across the stream, stopping occasionally upon the rocks
to rest, and succeeded at last in reaching the camp soon after it had been
established. His captors, however, did not return to their people as he
had supposed, but crossing the river at a point lower down, they soon
after arrived at the camp and attached themselves to Stanley's force.

A Native's Thrilling^ Adventure.

The dangers attending Stanley constantly in this great journey from sea
to sea are strikingly illustrated by a mishap which befell one of his men
in that part of the tour we are now describing.

At one point there were many islands in the river, which often afiforded
Stanley refuge when attacked by the murderous natives. They appeared
very beautiful, but the travellers could not enjoy their beauty, so frequent
were the attacks made upon them. Stanley visited several villages, in
which he says he found human bones scattered about, just as we would
throw away oyster shells after we had removed the bivalves. Such
sights as this did not tend to place the men in the most agreeable state
of mind, for it seemed to them just as if they were doomed to a similar
fate.

On the following day they began to make preparations for passing the
rapids which lay helow them. In order to do this, he must first drive
back the savages which lined the shore. Landing with thirty-six men,
he succeeded in doing so, after which he was able to cut a passage three
miles long around the falls. Stations were established at different points
along the route, and before daylight the canoes were safely carried to the
first of these. The savages then made an attack upon them, but were
beaten off. . At night the boats were carried to the next station, and the
one following to the next, and so on, until at the end of seventy-eight
hours of constant labor, and almost unceasing fighting, they reached the
river. But they had gone but a short distance, when they found that
just before them were a series of rapids extending two miles. These

I'4l

416

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

being much smalL-r than those they had passed before, an attempt was
made to float the boats down them.

Six canoes passed the falls in srifety, but the seventh was upset. One
of the persons in it was a Negro named Zaidi, who, instead of swimming
to the shore as the others did, clung to the boat and was hurried on to
the cataract below him. The canoe did not, however, pass immediately
over, but striking a rock which stood upon the very edge of the falls, it
vv'as split, one part passing over, while the other was jammed against the
rock. To this Zaidi clung in te "or, while the waves dashed angrily

HEPOIC RESCUE OF ZAIDI.

around him. Instead of attempting to render assistance to the endan-
gered man, the natives stood upon the shore and howled most unmerci-
fully, and at last sent for Stanley. The latter at o ice set them at ,vork
making a rattan rope, by which he proposed to let a boat down to the
man, into which he could get and be pulled ashore.

But the rope proved too weak, and was soon snapped in twain and the
boat carried over the falls. Other and stouter ropes were then laid up,
three pieces of which were fastened to a canoe. Put it was useless to
.send the boat out without some one tc guide it to the place where Z?idi
was, and Stanley looked about for volunteers. No one seemed inclined

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

417

, an attempt was

to u^.dertake the dangerous job, until the brave Uledi quietly said, " I
will go." And he did. Two of the cables attached to the boat were
held by men on the shore, while the third was to be used to enable the
poor wretch upon the rock to reach the boat. Several efforts were made
to place it within his reach, but each in turn failed.

Man Over the Falls.

At last, however, he grasped it, and orders were given for the boat to
be pulled ashore. No sooner were the cables tightened than they snapped
like small cords, and Zaidi was carried over the falls ; but holding
on to the rope, he pulled the boat against the rock, in which position it
became wedged. Uledi pulled him up and assisted him into the boat,
when they both scrambled upon the rock'. A rope was chrown to tham,
but failed to reach the spot where they were. This was repeated sf^ ^eral
times, until at iast they su :ceeded in catching it. A heavy rope was then
tied to it, which the men drew towards them and fastened to the rock,
and thus communication was established between those upon the rock
and those upon the shore. By this time darkness shut in upon thent.
and they were forced to leave the men upon their wild perch, and wait
for another day before attempting to get them off The next day they
succeeded in drawing them both to the shore.

On June 3d another accident occurred at Masassa whirlpool, which

was more deplorable than all the. others. Frank Pocock, who had been

Stanley's mainstay and next in command to himself, attempted to sJftoot

the rapids against the advice of his experienced boatman, Uledi, who.

was the bravest native connected with the expedition, though a Zanzibar

freedman.

Frank Pocock Drowned.

Pocock was warned of the danger of tuch an undertaking, but with a
rashness quite unlike himself he ordered the canoe pushed out into the:
stream. As they approached nearer and nearer the mad breakers Frank-
realized his peril, but it was too late. They were soon caught in the
dreadful whirl of waters and sucked under with a mighty force sufficient
to swallow up a ship. Pocock was an expert swimmer, but his art did
not now avail him, for he was swept away to his death, though his eight
comp.inions saved theiiselves.

The dreadful nev/15 was borne to Stanley by the brave Uledi. This
last* and greatest calamity, coming in the midst of his already heavy
weight of woe, so overcame the great explorer that he wept bitter tears
of anguish.

My brave, honest, kindly-natured Frank,'* he exclaimed, " have you

'\i

418

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

left me so? Oh, my lir^j-tried friend, what fatal rashness! Ah, Ulcdi,
had you but saved him, I should hi've made you a rich man."

Of the three brave boys who sailed away from England with Stanley
to win the laurels of discovery in the unknown wilds of Africa, not one
was left, but all were now slumberinf^ for eternity, in that strange lami,
where the tears of sorrowing friends and relatives could never moisten
their rude beds of earth.

Frank was gone ; and as Stanley mourned for him he could but feel

with Burns, that ,,

" Dread Omnipotence alone ,
Can heal the wound he gave,

Can point the brimful grief-worn eyes '

To scenes beyond the grave." ■?

In their home, how dreadful must the news of Frank's death have
been to his father and mother ! They had bade those darling boys fare-
well, hoping that they would return in safety, but both had died in a
.strange land, and lay amid strange scenes, and they were left in loneli-
ness to mourn. In his letter to them, Stanley says that Frank had so
won a place in his heart, that his death took away all joy gnd pleasure
which otherwise he would have felt in being able to accomplish so great
and arduous a task.

Xearlng the End of the Great Journey.

We must now hurry on. The descent by river had cost Stanley
Pocock, many of the natives, i8,ooo dollars worth of ivory, twelve
canoes, and a mutiny, not to mention grave anxiety and incessant cares
and conflicts. After a weary time, nearly starved, the remainder of the
expedition, reduced to 1 15 p)ersons, sent on to Embomma a message for
help and food. The letter was as follows:

"Village Nsanda, August 4th, 1S77.

" To any gentleman who speaks English at Embomma.

" Dear Sir : — I have arrived at this plice from Zanzibar with one
hundred and fifteen souls, men, women and children. We are now in a
Slate of imminent starvation. We can buy nothing from the natives, for
they laugh at our kinds of cloth, beads and wire. There are no pro-
visions in the country that may be purchased except on market-days, and
starving people cannot afford to wait for these markets. I therefore have
made bold to despatch three of my young men, natives of Zanzibar, with
a boy named Robert Ferugi, of the English mission at Zanzibar, with
this letter, craving relief from you. I do not know you, but I am told
ther^e as^an Englishman at Embomma, and as you are a Christian and a

STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

419

ness ! Ah, Uled<,

man."

md with Stanley

f Africa, not one

lat strange laml,

lid never moisten

\e could but fed

ink's death have
darling boys fare-
th had died in a
:re left in loncli-
at Frank had so
joy "and pleasure
:onnpUsh so great

lad cost Stanley
of ivory, twelve
1 incessant cares
remainder of the
la a message for

just 4th, 1S77.

Inzibar with one

^e are now in a

the natives, for

[here are no pro-

larket-days, and

I therefore have

l)f Zanzibar, with

|t Zanzibar, with

\, but I am told

'hristian and a

jrentleman, I beg of you not to disregard my request. The boy Robert,
will be better able to describe our condition than I can tell you in a letter.
We are in \ state of great distress, but, if your supplies arrive in time, I
may be abiv^ to reach Embomma in four days. I want three hundred
cloths, each four yards long, of such quality as you trade with, which is
very different from that we have ; but better than all would be ten or
fifteen man -loads of rice or grain to fill their pinched bellies immediately, as
even with the cloths, it would require time to purchase food, and starving
men cannot wait. The supplies must arrive within two days, or I may
have a fearful time of it among the dying. Of course I hold myself
responsible tor any expense you may incur in this business. What is
wanted is immediate relief, and I pray you to use your utmost energies
to forward it at once. For myself, if you have such little luxuries as tea,
coffee, sugar and biscuits by you, such as one man can easily carry, I beg
you, on my own behalf, that you will s^nd a small supply, and add to the
great debt of gratitude due to you upon the timely arrival of supplies for
my people. Until that time, I beg you to believe me,

" Yours sincerely,

" H. M. Stanley,
" Commanding Angio-Ainerican Expedition for
" Exploration of Africa.

"P. S. — You may not know my name ; I therefore add, I am the person
that discovered Livingstone.

*' H. M. S."
<«0, Master, I am Ready I »•

V When the letter was finished, Stanley gathered his men around him,
and told them that he intended to send to Embomma for food, and
desired to know who among them would go with the guides and carry
the letter. No sooner had he asked the question, than Uledi sprang for-
ward, exclaiming, '* O, master, I am ready ! " Other men also volun-
teered, and on the next day they set out with the guides.

Before they had got half way, the guides left them, and they had to
find their way as best they could. Passing along the banks of the
Congo, they reached the village soon after sunset, and delivered the
letter into the hands of a kindly disposed person. For thirty hours the
messengers had not tasted food, but they were now abundantly supplied.
On the following morning — it was the 6th of August — they started to
return, accompanied by carriers who bore provisions for the half-starving
men, women, and children, with Stanley.

Meanwhile, he and his weary party were pushing on as fast as their

420

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

I
Hi

ri^i

Hiii
II

tired and wasted forms would let them. At nine o'clock in the morning,
they stopped to rest. While in this situation, an Arab boy suddenly
spranj; from his seat upon the grass, and shouted :

" I see Uledi coming down the hill !"

Such was indeed the fact, and as the jaded men wearily turned their
eyes to the hill, half expecting to be deceived, they beheld Ulcdi and
, Kacheche running down the hill, followed by carriers loaded with pro-
visions. It was a glad sight to them, and with one accord they shouted:
"La it Allah, it Allah/" {""^c are saved, thank God!") Uledi was
the first to reach the camp, and at once delivered a letter to his master.
By the time Stanley had finished reading it, the carriers arrived with the
provisions, and need we say that those half-starved people did them
justice? Deeply grateful for the substantial answer to his letter, he
immediately penned another, acknowledging their safe arrival. The
letter ran as follows :

" Dear Sirs: — Though strangers I feel we shall be great friends, and
it will be the study of my lifetime to remember my feelings of grateful-
ness when I first caught sight of your supplies, and my poor faithful and
brave people cried out, ' Master, we are saved — food is coming ! ' The
old and the young men, the women and the children lifted their wearied
and worn-out frames and began lustily to chant an extemporaneous song
in honor of the white people by the great salt sea (the Atlantic), who
had listened to their prayers. I had to rush to my tent to hide the tears
that would come, despite all my attempts at composure.

" Gentlemen, that the blessing of God may attend your footsteps,
whithersoever you go, is the very earnest prayer of

•• Yours faithfully,

" Henry M. Stanley."
Great Problems Solved.

It was a daring undertaking — that of marching from one ocean to the
other through the wilds of Africa — but it was done. The great feat
was accomplished. The magnificent miracle was performed. Heroism
and self-sacrifice had the', sublime triumph. Perils and hardships beset
the expedition from first to last. Mr. Stanley's own words can best
describe them.

*' On all sides," he says, " death stared us in the face ; cruel eyes
watched us by day and by night, and a thousand bloqdy hands were
ready to take advantage of the least opportunity. We defended ourselves
like men who knew that pusillanimity would be our ruin among savages
to whon* mercy is a thing unknown. I wished, naturally, that it might

STANLEYS PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA.

421

VI. Stanley.'

have been otherwise, and looked anxiously and keenly for any sign of
forbearance or peace. My anxiety throughout was so constant, and the
effects of it, physically and otherwise, have been such, that I now find
myself an old man at thirty-five."

As if to give force to this last statement, the President of the American
Geographicrl Society says : " It will be remembered that, when we saw
Mr. Stanley here in the Society, his hair was black ; it is now said to be
nearly white. Of the 350 men with whom he left TjaxiT}^i2tX in 1874, but
ir5 reached the Atlantic coast, and 60 of those, when at the journey's
end, were suffering from dysentery, scurvy and dropsy. He was on the
Congo from November ist, 1876, to August nth, 1877 — a period of over
nine months ; so that his promise to the native followers was fulfilled,
that he would reach the sea before the close of the year."

The historic Nile has given up the mystery of its source.and the Congo
is no longer a puzzle, baffling the exploits of modern exploration.

Stanley showed that the Lualaba is the Congo, and has opened up a
splendid water-way into the interior of the Dark Continent, v/hich the
International Association has already fixed upon, and which rival
explorers have already discussed with more or less acrimony, Stanley has
put together the puzzle of which Burton, Speke, Livingstone, Baker, Du
Chaillu, and Cameron provided pieces, and made the greitcjt geographi-
cal discovery of the century — and of many centuries. \*^e cannot limit
the results which will accrue from this feat of Henry M. Stanley in cross-
ing the Dark Continent, over which he has shed the light of civilization.

Stanley was received with j^reat ceremony in England, and almost
every nation hastened to bestow its honors upon him. But among thei'>
all he singles out one, concerning which he says: " For another honor I
have to express my thanks — one which I may be pardoned for regarding
as more precious than all the rest. The Government of the United States
has crowned my success with its official approval, and the unanimous
vote of thanks passed in both houses of legislature, has made me proud
for life of the expedition and its success,"

W.i-

/ . . "V

. i ■

rait!"

CHAPTER XIX.

TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.

Stanley and Emin Pasha— rther Famous African Travellers— Achievements Almost
Superhuman — Fascination of Tropical Explorations — Sir Samuel and Latiy
Baker— Lady Baker E>etermined to Accompany Her Husband — Discomforts oJ
Travelling in Africa— Intense Heat in the Nile Region— Barren Rocks and Sandy
Wastes— Blue Sky Over a Blighted Land— The Wrenched Town of Korosko—
Searching for One of the Sources of the Nile — Arrival at Berber— Courtesies of
an Ex-Governor — The Travellers Pitch Their Tents in a Garden — A Charming
Oasis— Fine Looking Slaves From the White Nile — Slaves Well Cared for by
Their Master— Description of a Beautiful Slave Girl— Guard of Turkish Soldiers—
; Fine River and Forest Game— Sudden Rise of the Nile— A Clew to One Part ol
the Nile Mystery — The Rainy Season Arrives— Interview With a Great Sheik-
Venerable Arab o»^ a R«»a»>tiful Snow-white Dromedary — Perfect Picture of a
Desert Patriarch — Cordial Welcome to Baker and His Party — A Performance to
Show the Sheik's Hospitality — Arrival at the Village of Soft— On the Banks ol
the Atbara — The Travellers Living in Huts — A German in the Wilds of Africa-
Man Killed by a Lion— Baker's Adventure With a Kiver-horse— Savage Old
Hippopotamus — Famous Arab Hunters — Wonderful Weapons.— Story of the Old
Arab and His Trap for the Hippopotamus — Cap>ture of an Enormo'us Beast—
Aggageers Hunting the Elephant — Thrilling Adventure of a Renowned Arab
Hunter — An Elephant Dashing Upon His Foes Like an Avalanche — Fatal Blow
of the Sharp Sword — Baker's Heroic Wife— Reason Why the Nile Overflows— Au
Ivory Trader — Baker Arrives at Khartoum — Romatic Beauty Destroyed by the
Filth of a Miserable Town.

BEFORE following Stanley in his last great expedition for the reliel
of Emin Pasha, an undertaking which has again drawn toward
him the eyes of the whole civilized world, we will tum our atten-
tion to the extraordinary achievements and daring feats of other
African travellers, whose renown is scarcely less than that of Stanley
himself. A brilliant galaxy of explorers shine resplendent in the firma-
ment of modern discovery, and we come now to fresh tales of heroism
and adventure worthy to rank with those already felated. We are deal-
ing with almost superhuman achievem.ents, and the historic pages on
tvhich they are written have a fascination for every lover of brave deedsi
heroic sacrifices, and deathless devotion to a great cause.

Sir Samuel, then untitled Mr. Baker, was already an experienced

traveller and a j>racticed sportsman, when in March, 1861, having resolved

to devote his energies to the discovery of one of the sources of the Nile.

he set forth from England to proceed up the mysterious river from its

(422>

W&^i^

TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.

423

(.f

Y BAKER.

Achievements Almost
r Samuel and Latij
3and— Discomforts ol
•ren Rocks and Sandj
Town of Korosko—
Berber— Courtesies oJ
iarden— A Charming
JS Well Cared for by
ofTurkishSoldiers-.
L Clew to One Part ol
^ith a Great Sheik-
Perfect Picture of a
I'— A Performance to
ofi-On the Banks of
the Wilds of Afnca-
-horse— Savage Old
ns^Story of the Old
1 Enormo'us Beast—
' a Renowned Arab
alanche— Fatal Blow
Nile Overflows -Au
ty Destroyed by the

ion for the relief
lin drawn toward
1 turn our atten-
ng feats of other
that of Stanley
lent in the firma-
tales of heroism
We are deal-
toric pages on
of brave deeds^

an experienced
having resolved
ces of the Nile.
(s river from its

mouth, inwardly determined to accomplish the difficult task or to die in
tlie attempt. He had, however, shordy before married a young wife.
She. with a devoted love and heroism seldom surpassed, notwithstanding
the dangers and difficulties she knew she must encounter, entreated to
iccompa'.iy her husband.

Leaving Cairo on the 15th of April, they sailed up the Nile. Soon
die discomforts of travel became almost unbearable, as will be seen from
;hc following entry, early in May, in Baker's journal :

" No air. The thermometer 104 degrees ; a stifling heat. Becalmed,,
we have been lying the entire day below the ruins of Philae. These aic
the most imposing monuments of tho Nile, owing to their peculiar situa-
tion upon a rocky island that comm^mds the passage of the river above
the cataract. The banks of che stream are here hemmed in by ranges of
iiills from 100 to 250 feet high; these are entirely destitute of soil, being
composed of enormous masses of red granite, piled block upon blocks
the rude masonry of Nature that has walled in the river.
Barren Rocks and Sandy Wastes.

" The hollows between the hills are choked with a yellow sand, which,
drifted by the wind, lias, in many instances, completely filled the narrow
valleys. Upon either side of the Nile are vestiges of ancient forts. The
land appears as though it bore the curse of Heaven ; misery, barrenness,
and the heat of a furnace, are its features. The glowing rocks, devoid
of a trace of vegetation, reflect the sun with an intensity that must be
felt to be understood. The miserable people who dwell in villages upon
tlie river's banks snatch every sandbank from the retiring stream, and im-
mediately plant their scanty garden with melons, gourds, and lentils, this
being their only resource for cultivation. Not an inch of available soil
is lost ; but day by day, as the river decreases, fresh rows of vegetables
are sown upon the newly-acquired land. At Assouan, the sandbanks are
purely sand brought down by the cataracts, therefore soil must be added
to enable the people to cultivate. They dig earth from the ruins of the
ancient town; this they boat across the river and spread upon the sand-
bank, by which excessive labor tJiey secure sufficient mold to support
their crops.

" In the vicinity of Philaae the very barrenness of the scenery possesses
a charm. The iron-like sterility of the granite rocks, naked except in
spots where the wind !?as sheeted them with sand; the groves of palms
springing unexpectedly into view in this desert wilderness, as a sudden
beml of the river discovers a village; the ever blue and never clouded
sky above, and; the only blessing of this blighted land, the Nile, silently

* l-'i

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i ii; |! I

!«. i,

\'\'-i'-

k)--

i'^h'''rt ^

f * i ■ i'^'s

'i-'*''

jfl t, \ ■ T^B \

^{•" '-^iSf"

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424

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

flowing between its stern walls of rocks towards the distant land of
Lower Egypt, form a total that produces a scene to be met with nowhere
but upon the Nile. In this miserable spot the unfortunate inhabitants
are taxed equally with those of the richer districts — about ten cents
annually for each d?te palm."

When the party had been twenty-six d-f.ys on the river they reached.
Korosko. At this wretched spot the Nile is dreary beyond description,
as a vast desert, unenlivened by cultivation, forms its borders, throucrh
which the melancholy river rolls towards Lower Egypt in the cloudless
glare of a Tropical sun. Whence came this extraordinary stream tiiat
could flow through these burning sandy deserts, unaided by tributary
channels? That was the mysterious question as they stepped upon the
shore now, to commence a land journey in search of the distant
sources. They climbed the steep .sandy bank, and sat down beneath a
.solitary sycamore.

A Wretched Place.

Korosko is not rich in supplies. A few misc.abie Arab huts, with tlie
usual fringe of dusty date palms, compose the village; the muddy river
is the frontier on the west, the burning desert on the east. Thus hemmed
in, Korosko is a narrow strip of a few yards width on the margin of the
Nile, with only one redeeming feature in its wretchedness — the green
shade of the old sycamore beneath which they sat.

Baker says : " I had a firman from the Viceroy, a cook, and a drago-
man. Thus, my outfit was small. The firman was an order to all Egyp-
tian officials for assistance ; the cook Avas dirty and incapable ; and the
interpreter was neirly ignorant of English, although a professed polyglot.
With this small beginning, Africa was before me, and thus I commenced
the search for one of the Sources of the Nile."

From Korosko thi* travellers crossed the Nubian Desert on camels,
with the simoon in full force anci the heat intense, to Berber. Here Mr.
Baker, finding his want of Arabic a great dr.iwback, resolved to devote
a year to the study of that language, antl to s}x>nd the time in the coni-
jjaratively kn<nvii icgions to the north of Abyssinia, while he exploree'
the various conlluences of the Blue Nile.

Berber is a large town, and in appearance is similar to the Nile towns
of Lower Egypt, consisting of the usual dusty, unpaved stre-ets.Snd flit-
roo feel houses of sun-baked bricks. It is the seat of a Governor or
Mudii, and is generally the quarters for about l ,500 troops. Says Baker:
" V\^e were very kindly received by Ilalleem Effendi, the ex-Governor,
who at once j^avc us permission to pitch the tents in his garden^ close to

art land of

ith nowhere

inhabitants

t ten cents

ley reached,
description,
rs, throuLjli
le ch-)iidlcss
stream that
y tributary
d upon the
he distant
beneath a

's, with the
iuddy river
IS hemmed
"gin of the
-the green

a dratro-

all K<

yp-

; and the

poly <r lot.

•mmenced

camels,

iHere Mr.

to devote

the com-

explored

lie towns
Und fl.it-
prnor or
IS Baker:
lovernor,
Iclose to

■

i 1 ' ^

ikl "' ' -

<4';

U'-

II:?

■ 1

426

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the Nile, on the southern outskirt of the town. After fifteen days of
desert marching, th'j sight of a well-cultivated garden was an Eden in
our eyes. About eight acres of land, on the margin of the river, were
th'ckly planted with lofty date groves,and shaded citron and lemon trees,
beneath which we reveled in luxury on our Persian rugs, and enjoyed
complete rest after the fatigue of our long journey.

Beautiful Gardeu.

"Countless birds were chirping and singing in the trees above us;
innumerable ring-doves were cooing in the shady palms ; and the sudden
change from the deadly sterility of the desert to the scene of verdure
and of life produced an extraordinary effect upon the spirits, Wiiat
caused this curious transition ? Why should this char^ning oasis, teem-
ing with vegetation and with life, be found in the yellow, sandy desert?
Water had worked this change ; the spirit of the Nile, more potent than
any genii of the Arabian fables, had transformed the desert into a fruit-
ful garden. Halleem Effendi, the former Governor, had, many years
ago, planted this garden, irrigated by numerous water-wheels; and we
now enjoyed the fruits, and thanked Heaven for its greatest .blessings in
that burning land, shade and cool water.''

The garden of Halleem Effendi was attended by a number of fine,
powerful slaves from the White Nile, whose stout frames and glossy
skins were undeniable witness of their master's care. Here Baker and
his party received visits from their host and the governor, as well as from
other officers, who expressed their astonishment when they announced
their intention of proceeding to the head of the Nile.

" Bo not go on such an absurd errand," exclaimed Halleem Effendi
" Nobody knows anything about the Nile. We do not even know the
source of the Atbara. While you remain within the territory of the
Pacha of Egypt you will be safe ; but the moment you cross the frontier
you will be in the hands of savages."

Their host sent them daily presents of fruit by a charmingly pretty
slave girl, whose numerous mistresses requested permission to pay the
travellers a visit.

In the cool hour of evening a bevy of ladies approached through the
dark groves of citron trees, so gaily dressed in silks of the brightest dyes
of yellow, blue and scarlet, that no bouquet of flowers could have been
more gaudy. They were attended by numerous slaves, and the head
servant politely requested Baker to withdraw during the interview.
Some of these ladies were very young and pretty, and of course exercised
a certain influence over their husbands ; thus, on the following morning

ftoen days of
s an Eden in
lie river, were
d lemon trees,
, and enjoyed

;es above us*,
nd the sudden
ne of verdure
ipirits. What
T oasis, teem-
sandy desert ?
re potent than
t into a fruit-
d, many years
leels; and we
t .blessings in

umber of fine.
:s and glossy
re Baker and
s well as from
cy announced

lleem Effendi.

:n know the

Iritory of the

|s the frontier

lingly pretty
|n to pay ths

through the
[ightest dyes
rl have Ijeen
lid the head
interview.
Jse exercised

ig morning

THE BEAUTIFUL SLAVE GIRL AT BERBER.

(427)

' ca,

4 i-

•{'■

428

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i:i'V

' F i

I'' I'l

the travellers were inundated with visitors, as the male members of the
family came to thank them for the manner in which their ladies had been
received ; and fruit, flowers, and the general produce of the garden were
presented them in profusion. However pleasant, there were drawbacks
to their Garden of Eden ; there was dust in their Paradise — sudden
clouds raised by whirlwinds in the desert, which fairly choked the cars
and nostrils when thus attacked. June is the season when these phe-
nomena are most prevalent. At that time the rains have commenced in
the south, and arc extending toward the north ; the cold and heavier air
of the southern rain-clouds sweeps down upon the overheated atmos-
phere of the desert, and produces sudden, v'olent squalls and whirlwinds
when least expected, as at that time the sky is cloudless.

Guard of Turkish Soldiers.

After a week spent at this pleasant spot, they commenced their journey,
attended by a guard of Turkish soldiers, who were to act in the double
capacity of escort and servants. Their dragoman was called Mahomet,
and the principal guide Achmet. The former, though almost black,
declared that his color was of a light brown. As already stated, he spoke
very bad English, was excessively conceited, and irascible to a degree.
Accustomed to the easy-going expeditions on the Nile, he had no taste
for the rough sort of work his new master had undertaken. The jour-
ney JLcross the desert tract was performed on donkeys, the luggage as
well as some of the travellers, being carried on camels or dromedaries.

In two days they reached the junction of the Atbara river with the
Nile. Here, crossing a broad surface of white sand, which at that season
formed the dry bed of the river, they encamped near a plantation of
water-melons, with which they refreshed themselves and their tired don-
keys. The river was here never less than four hundred yards in width,
with banks nearly thirty feet deep. Not only was it partially dry, but so
clear was the sand-bed that the reflection of the sun was almost unbear-
able.

Fine ICiver and Forest Game.

They traveled along the banks of the river for some days, stopping by
the side of the pools which still remained. Many of these pools were
full of crocodil'^s and hippopotami. One of these river-horses had lately
killed the proprietor of a melon-garden, who had attempted to drive the
creature from his plantation. Mr. Baker had the satisfaction of klliini^f
one of the monsters in shallow water. It was quickly surrounded by
Arabs, who hauled it on shore, and, on receiving his permission to take
the meat, in an instant a hundred knives were at work, the lucn fighting

TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.

42ft

members of the
ir ladies had been
f the garden were

were drawbacks
Paradise — sudden

choked the cars
when these phe-
ve commenced in
d and heavier air
►verheated atmos-
Is and whirlwinds

iced their journey,
act in the double
called Mahomet,
gh almost black,
ly stated, he spoke
jcible to a degree.
p, he had no taste
aken. The jour-
;, the luggage as
)r dromedaries.
a river with the
ch at that season
r a plantation of
I their tired don-
yards in width,
ially dry, but so
almost, unbear-

to obtain the most delicate morsels. He and his wife breakfasted that
morning on hippopotamus flesh, which was destined to be their general
food during their journey among the Abyssinian tributaries of the Nile.
Game abounded, and he shot gazelles and hippopotami sufficient to keep
the whole camp well .supplied with meat.

One day in June they were nearly suffocated by a whirlwind that
buried everything in the tents several inches in dust. The heat was
intense; the night, however, was cool and pleasant. About half-past
ci'^ht, as Mr. Baker lay asleep, iie fancied that he heard a rumbling like
distant thunder. The low uninterrupted roll increasing in volume, pres-
ently a confusion of voices arose from the Arabs' camp, his men shout-
injT as they rushed through the darkness : " The river ! the river ! "

Mahomet exclaimed that the river was coming down, and that the
supposed distant roar was the approach of water. Many of the people,
who had been sleeping on the clean sand of the river's bed, were quickly
awakened by the Arabs, who rushed down the steep bank to save the
skulls of two hippopotami which were exposed to dry.

Sudden Rise of the NUe.

The sound of ihe torrent, as it rushed by amid the darkness, and the
men, dripping with wet, dragging their heavy burdens up the bank, told
that the great event had occurred. The river had arrived like a thief in
the night. The next morning, instead of the barren sheet of clear whitv.
sand with a fringe of withered bush and trees upon its borders, cutting
the yellow expanse of desert, a magnificent stream, the noble Atbara
river flowed by, some five hundred yards in width, and from fifteen to
twenty feet in depth. Not a drop of rain, however, had fallen ; but the
current gave the traveller a clue to one portion of the Nile mystery.
The rains were pouring down in Abyssinia — these were the sources of
the Nile.

The rainy season, however, at length began, during which it was
impossible to travel. The Arabs during that period migrate to the
drier regions in the north. On their way they arrived in the neighbor-
lood of the camp of the great Sheikh Achmet Abou Sinn, to whom Mr.
Raker had a letter of introduction. Having sent it forward by Mahomet,
in a short time the sheikh appeared, attended by several of his principal
people. He was mounted on a beautiful snow-white dromedary, his
appearance being remarkably dignified and venerable. Although
upwards of eighty years old, he was as erect as a lance, and of herculean
stature; a remarkably arched nose, eyes like an eagle's, beneath large,
shaggy, but perfectly white eyebrows, while a snow-white beard of great

430

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i i

li ^

thickness descended below t»ie middle of his breast. He wee a lar'^e
white turban, and a white cashmere robe reachinr^ from the throat to the
ankles. He was indeed the perfect picture of a desert patriarch. }\q
insisted on the travellers accompanying him to his camp, and would hear
of no excuses. Ordering Mahomet to have their baggage repacked, he
requested them to mount two superb dromedaries with saddle-cloths of
blue and purple sheep-skins, and they set out with their venerable host
Jbllowed by his wild and splendidly-mounted attendants.
Cordial "^'^elconie of a Great Slicikh.

As they approached the camp they were suddenly met by a crowd of
mounted men, armed with svords and shields, some on horsoj, others on
dromedaries. Th ;e wt. \h m Sinr s people, who had assembled to do
iionor to L'leii- chief';;, i^uests. Having formed in lines parallel with the
approach of thnr g ic-ts, ,,^ey galloped singly at full speed across the
line of march, flourislung tl.f ! swords over their heads, and reining in
their horses so as to bring them on their haunches by the sudden halt.
This performance being concluded, they fell into line behind the party.

Declining the sheikh's invitation to spend two or three months at his
camp, Mr. and Mrs. Baker travelled on to the village of Sofi, where they
proposed remaining during the rainy season. It was situated near the
banks of the Atbara, on a plateau of about twenty acres, bordered on
either side by two deep ravmes, while below the steep cliff in front of the
village flowed tiie river Atbara. Their tents were pitched on a level
piece of ground just outside the village, where the grass, closely nibbled
by the goats, formed a natural lawn. Here huts were built and some
weeks were pleasantly spent. Mr. Baker found an abundance of sport,
sometimes catching enormous fish, at others shooting birds to supply his
larder, but more frequently hunting elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, and
other large game.

He here found a German named Florian, a stone-mason by trade, who
had come out attached to the Austrian mission at Khartoum, but prefer-
ring a freer life than that city afforded, had become a great hunter. Mr
Baker, thinking that he would prove useful, engaged him as a hunter
and he afterwards took into his service Florian's black servant Richarn,
who became his faithful attendant. A former companion of Florian's
johann Schmidt, soon afterwards arrived, and was also engaged by Mr.
Baker to act as his lieutenant in his proposed White Nile expedition.
Toor Florian, however, was killed by a lion, and Schmidt and Richarn
alone accompanied him.

Mr. Baker's skill as a sportsman was frequently called into play by the

i^,i'

wc-e a lar'^e
throat to the
atn'aich. He
id would licdr
: repacked, he
Jdlc-cloths of
enerable host

by a crowd of

soj, others on

iembled to do

•allel with the

ed across tlic

ind reinini: in

I sudden halt.

\ the party.

months at his

fi, where they

ited near the

bordered on

n front of the

ed on a level

[osely nibbled

It and some

ice of sport,

;o supply his

giraffes, and

[y trade, who
I, but prefcr-
lunter. Mr
IS a hunter
mt Rieharn,
)f Florian's
[gcd by Mr.
expedition,
id Rieharn

play by the

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432

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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L«iM

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natives, to drive off the elephants and hippopotami which infested their
plantations. One afternoon he was requested to shoot a savage old bull
hippopotamus which had given ckase to several people. He rode 10
the spot, about two miles off, where the hippopotamus lived in a
deep and broad portion of the river. The old hippopotamus was at
home.

The river, about two hundred and fifty yards wide, had formed by an
a:ute bend a deep hole. In the centre of this was a sandbank just below
tiie surface. Upon this shallow bed the hippotamus was reposing. On
perceiving the party he began to snort and behave himself in a most
absurd manner, by shaking his head and leaping half way out of the
water. Mr. Baker had given Bacheet and other attendants rifles, and had
ordered them to follov/ on the bank. He now directed one to fire several
shots at the hippopotamus, in order if possible, to drive the animal
towards him. The hippo, a wicked, solitary, old bull, returned the insult
by charging towards Bacheet with a tremendous snorting, which sent
him scrambling up the steep bank in a panic. This gave the brute con-
fidence ; and the sportsman, who had hitherto remained concealed, called
out according to Arabic custom : " Hasinih ! hasinth r the Arabic for
hippopotamus. The brute, thinking no doubt that he might as well
drive the intruder away, gave a loud snort, sank, and quickly reappeared
about a hundred yards from him. On this Mr. Baker ordered Bacheet
to shoot to attract the animal's attention. As the hippopotamus turned
his head, Mr. Baker took a steady shot, aiming behind the ear, and im-
mediately the saucy old hippo turned upon his back and rolled about,
lashing the still pool into waves, until at length he disappeared.

Famous Arab Hunters.

His intention of engaging a party of the Hamran Arabs, celebrated as
hunters, to accompany him in his explorations of the Abyssinian rivers
having become known, several of these men made their appearance at
Sofi. They are distinguished from the other tribes of Arabs by an extra
length of hair, worn parted down the centre and arranged in long curls.
They are armed with swords and shields, the former having long, straight,
two-edged blades, with a small cross for the handle, similar to the long.
straight, cross-handled blades of the crusaders. Their shields, formed
of rhinoceros, giraffe, or elephant-hide, are either round or oval. Thei^
swords, which they prize highly, are kept as sharp as razors. The length
of the blade is about three feet, and the handle six inches long. It is
secured to the wrist by a leathern strap, so that the hunter cannot by any
accident be disarmed.

TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.

433

These " men go in chase of all wild animals of the desert ; some are
toted as expert hippopotamus slayers, but the most celebrated are the
Aggagecrs, or elephant hunters. The latter attack the huge animal
either on horseback, or on foot when they cannot afford to purchase
steeds. In the latter case, two men alone hunt together. They follow
the tracks of an elephant which they contrive to overtake about noon,
wrhen the animal is either asleep or extremely listless and easy to approach.
Should the elephant be asleep, one of the hunters will creep towards its
head, and with a single blow sever the trunk stretched on the ground, the
result being its death within an hour from bleeding. Should the animdl
be awake, they will creep up from behind, and give a tremendous cut at
the back sinew of the hind leg, immediately disabling the monster. It is
followed up by a second cut on the remaining leg, when the creature
becomes their easy prey.

When I unting on horseback, generally four men form a party, and '.
they often follow the tracks of a herd from their drinking-place for
upwards of twenty miles. Mr. Baker accompanied them on numerous
hunting expeditions, and witnessed the wonderful courage and dexterity
they displayed.

After spending three months at Sofi, he set out for the Settite River,
he and his wife crossing the Atbara River on a raft formed of his large
circular sponging bath supported by eight inflated skins secured to his
bedstead.

An Old Arab's Trap for the River-horse.

A party of the Aggageers now joined him. Among them was Abou
Do, a celebrated old hippopotamus hunter, who, with his spear of trident
shape in hand, might have served as a representative of Neptune. The
old Arab was equally great at elephant hunting, and had on the previous
day exhibited his skill, having assisted to kill several elephants. He now
divested himself of all his clothing, and set out, taking his harpoon in
hand, in search of hippopotami.

This weapon consisted of a steel blade about eleven inches long and
three-qarters of an inch in width, with a single barb. To it was attached
a strong rope twenty feet long, with a float as large as a child's head at
the extremity. Into the harpoon was fixed a piece of bamboo ten feel
long, around which the rope was twisted, while the buoy was carried on.
the hunter's left hand.

After proceeding a couple of miles, a herd of hippopotami were seen in
a pool below a rapid surrounded by rocks. He, however, remarking that
they were too wide-awake to be attacked, continued his course down th^

434

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

n ■

Stream till a smaller pool was reached. Here the immense head of a
hippopotamus was seen, close to a perpendicular rock that formed a wall
to the river. The old hunter, motioning the travellers to remain quiet
immediately plunged into the stream and crossed to the opposite
bank, whence, keeping himself under shelter, he made his way directly
towards the spot beneath which the hippopotamus was lyinj*. Stealthily

JHE OLD ARAB ATTACKING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS.

he approached, his long thin arm raised, with the harpoon ready to
strike.

The hippopotamus, however, had vanished, but far from exhibiting sur-
prise, the veteran hunter remaining standing on the sharp ledge, un-
changed in attitude. No figure of bronze could be more rigid than that
of the old river king, as he thus stood, his left foot advanced, his right

TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.

435

hand grasping the harpoon above his head, and his left the loose coil of
rope attached to the buoy.

Three minutes thus passed, when suddenly the right arm of the statue
descended like lightning, and the harpoon shot perpendicularly into
ihe pool with the speed of an arrow. In an instant an enormous pair of
open jaws appeared, followed by the ungainly head and form of a furious
hippopotamus, who, springing half out of the water, lashed the river into
foam as he charged straight up the violent rapids. With extraordinary
power he breasted the descending stream, gaining a footing in the rapids
where they were about five feet deep, thus making his way, till, landing
from the river, he started at a full gallop along the shingly bed, and dis-
appeared in the thorny jungle. No one would have supposed that so
unwicldly an animal could have exhibited such speed, and it was fortu-
nate for old Neptune that he was secure on the high ledge of rock, for
had he been on the path of the infuriated beast, there would have been
an end of Abou Do.

Tremendous Snorting^ nnd Roaring.

The old man rejoined his companions, when Mr. Baker proposed
going in search of the animal. The hunter, however, explained that
het hippopotamus would certainly return after a short time to the
water. In a few minutes the animal emerged from the jungle and
descended at full trot into the pool where the other hippopotami had
been seen, about half a mile off. Upon reaching it, the party were
immediately greeted by the hippopotamus, who snorted and roared
and quickly dived, and the float was seen running along the surface,
showing his course as the cork of a trimmer does that of a pike when
hooked.

Several times the hippo appeared, but invariably faced them, and, as
Mr. Baker could not obtain a favorable shot, he sent the old hunter
across the stream to attract the animal's attention. The hippo, turning
towards the hunter, afforded Mr. Baker a good chance, and he fired a
steady shot behind the ear. The crack of the ball, in the absence of
any splash fi m the bullet, showed him that the hippopotamus was hit,
while the float remained stationary upon the surface, marking the spot^
where the grand old bull lay dead beneath. The hunter obtaining assis-
tance from the camp, the hippopotamus, as well as another which had
been shot, were hauled on shore. The old bull meaiurcd fourteen fee?
two inches, and the head was three feet one inch from the front of the
ear to the edge of the lip in a straight line.
Though hippopotami are generally harmless, solitary old bulls an:

iii

If: •' ■ *■

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436

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS

sometimes extremely vicious, and frequently attack canoes without
provocation.

Many of the elephant hunts in which Mr. Baker engajfcd were
excitinfj in the highest degree, and fraught with great danger.

Among the Aggageers >vas a hunter, Rodur Sherrif, who, though his
arm had been withered in consequence of an accident, was as dariivr ^^
any of his companions.

Furious Combat.

The banks of the Royan had been reached, where, a camp ha\iniT
been formed, Mr. Baker and his companions set out in search of
elephants. A large bull elephant was discovered drinking. The country
around was partly woody, and the ground strewed with fragments of
rocks, ill adapted for riding. The elephant had made a desperate cliarf^e
scattering the hunters in all directions, and very nearly overtaking Mr.
Baker. He then retreated into a stronghold composed of rocks and
uneven ground, with a few small leafless trees growing in it. The .scene
must be described in the traveller's own words :

" Here the elephant stood facing the party like a statue, not movint^ a
muscle bejond the quick and restless action of the eyes, which wore
watching on all sides. Two of the Aggageers getting into its rear by a
w de circuit, two others, one of whom was the renowned Rodur .Siierrit,
mounted on a thoroughly-trained bay mare, rode slowly toward the ani-
mal Coolly the *"!iare advanced towards her wary antagonist until witiiin
about nine j'ards of its head. The elephant never moved. Not a word
was spoken. The perfect stillnes.s was at length broken by a snort from
the mare, who gazed intently at the elephant, as though watching ft)r the
moment of attack. Rodur coolly sat with his eyes fixed upon those of
the elephant.

" With a shrill scream the enormous creature then suddenly dashed on
him like an avalanche. Round went the mare as though upon a pivot,
away over rocks and stones, flying like a gazelle, with the nionkejiike
form of Rodur Sherrif leaning forward and l(X)king over his left shoiil-
der as the elephant rushed after him. For a moment it appeared as if
'he mare must be caught. Mad she stumbled, all would have ham lo.s^
but s^ie gained in the race after a few quick bounding strides, and Rodiii
still looking behind him, kept his distance, so close, however, to the
creature, that its outstretched trunk was within a few feet of the marc's
tail.

" The two Aggageers who had kept in the rear now dashed forward
close to the hind quarters of the furious elephant, who, maddened with

loes without

nga^red were
-r.

), though his
as daring as

camp having
in search of
The country
fragtricnls of
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crtaking Mr.
of rocks and
. Tlic scene

lot moving a

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438

WONDERS OF THE TROPIC&

the excitement, heeded nothing but Rodur and his mare. When close to
the tail of the elephant, the sword of one of the Aggageers flashed
from its sheath as, grasping his trusty blade, he leaped nimbly to the
ground, while his companion caught the reins of his horse. Two or
three bounds on foot, with the sword clutched in both hands, and he
was close behind the elephant. A bright glance shone like lightninp
as the sun struck on the descending steel. This was followed by a dull
crack, the sword cutting through skin and .sinew, and sinking deep into
the bone about twelve inches above the foot. At the next stride the ele-
phant halted dead short in the midst of his tremendous charge. The
Aggageer who had struck the blow vaulted into the saddle with his
naked sword in hand. At the same moment Rodur turned sharp round
and, again facing the elephant, stooped quickly from the .saddle to pick
up from the ground a handful of dirt, which he threw into the face of
the vicious animal, that once mote attempted to rush upon him. It was
impossible ; the foot was dislocated and turned up in front like an old
shoe. In an in.stant the other Aggageer leaped to the ground, and again
the sharp sword slashed the remaining leg."

Nothing could be more perfect than the way in which these daring
hunters attack their prey. " It is difficult to decide which to admire
more — whether the coolness and courage of him who led the elephant,
or the extraordinary skill and activity of the Aggageer who dealt the
fatal blow."

Thus, hunting and exploring, Mr. Baker, accompanied by his heroic
wife, visited the numerous river-bech which carry the rains of the moun-
tainous regions of Abyssinia into the Blue Nile, and are the cause of the
periodical overflowing of the mighty stream, while its ordinary current is
fed from other far-distant sources, towards one of which the traveller now
prepared to direct his steps.

Speke and Grant were at this time making their way from Zanzibar,
across untrodden ground, towards Gondokoro. An expedition under
Petherick, the ivory-trader, .sent to assist them, had met with misfortune
and been greatly delayed, and Mr. Baker therefore hoped to reach the
equator, and perhaps to meet the S^nzibar explorers somewhere about
the sources of the Nile.

Proceeding along the banks of the Blue Nile, Mr. and Mrs. Baker
reached Khartoum on the nth of June, 1862, which they found to be
a filthy and miserable town.

CHAPTER XX.

THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

IHe Immense Region of the Soudan — Remarkable Character of "Chinese" Goi^
don — A Man Made of Damascus Steel^A Warrior and Nut an Explorer -Ml.
and Mrs. Balcer Crossing the Nubian Desert— Hardships of a Long Camel Jour*
ney—- The Romance of a Desert Journey Destroyed — Travelling Through a
Furnace — A Nubian Thunder Storm— Bakers Descnption of a Camel Ride — A
Humorous Experience— " Warranted to Ride Easy" — Extraordinary Freak ol
Nature— Thorns Like Fishhooks — Cancel Plunging Into the Thorn Bushes— An
African Scorpion— Water Six Inches Daup in the Tents— The Explorers Pressing
Forward— The Parly That Left Khartoum- The Carpenter Johann— Sickness
and Death of Poor Johann— Celebrated Tribe of Blacks — Very Ciieap Style ol
Dress— Traits of the Neuhr Tribe — Ludicrous Attempt to Get Into Shoes— Mode
of Salutation - Mosquitoes in Africa — Visit from a Chief and His Daughter-
Leopard Skin and Skull Cap of White Beads — Men Tall and Slender— Puny
Children— An Indolent and Star\ing People — Herds of Cattle — Sacred Bull
With Ornamented Horns — How a Prussian Baron Lost His Life — Termination
of the Voyage — Aiipearance of the Country— The Explorers Looked Upon
With Suspicion— Native Dwellings — Tlie Perfection of Cleanliness— Huts With
Piojecting Roufs and Low Entrances — The Famous Bari Tribe — Warlike and
Dangerous Savages— Story of an Umbrella — Systematic Extonion— Stories ol
Two Brave Boys.

fY\ K. AND MRS. BAKER were now in the eastern part of that
If 7 large desert \ ^gion in Nortliern Africa which goes by the name

r of the Soudan. This immense tract has lately been brought
into prominence by the wonderful exploits and extraordinary
heroism of General Gordon — " Chinese " Gordon, as he was called by
reason of achievements in China, which have given him remarkable fame.
He was a bold, strong character, a man of uncommon nerve and endur-
ance, one who took a high moral view of the work in which he was
engaged, whose conscientiousness could not be doubted, whose tact and
perseverance were conspicuous — a man who was a kind of religious hero,
raised up for a certain great work, and who fell before it was fully accom--
plished. His name will go down to all generations. Ke was a silent
man, very much wrapp«d up within himself, somewhat stern in his dispo-
sition, whose nature was apparently made of Damascus steel, and who,
although possessed of gentle qualities and much beloved by those who
knew him best, was yet a man to be dreaded when not obeyed.

*• Chinese " Gordon was not an explorer. He did n©t partake of the

(4a»)

>>ii

440

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

' 1 V :V

1 ,

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character of Stanley, B.Tiver, Livingstone, and others. Yet he succeeded
in gaining a very strong hold upon the sympathies and the admiration of
not only the English people, hire of all civilized nations. He was a man
to awaken enthusiasm and admiration, and the heroic sacrifice which he
finally made of himself places a fitting climax upon his marvellous career
It is true that geographical discovery has had its great heroes ; it is also
true that the attempts of European nations to carry their commerce, their
arms, their modes of government, into the benighted Continent of Africa
have had heroes none the less brilliant.

It will be interesting to the reader to continue the journey through the
wilds of Abyssinia which lie upon the borders of the Soudan ; in fact, the
Soudan may be said to include this vast region, which in itself is a Trop-
ical wonder.

We have already seen that Mr. and Mrs. Raker crossed the Nubian
desert. This in itself was a formidable undertaking, for the dreary desert
is the greatest obstacle to exploration southward into the region of Cen-
tral Africa.

This dreary tract we must cross, otherwise we can have no adequate
idea of the hardships of the explorer's life, the difficulties and discour-
agements he meets with at the very outset, and the surprising contrast
between his experiences in the earlier and in the later stages of his
progress. His voyage up the Nile, under the ever clear and brilliant
sky of Egypt, past the silent shapes of the temples, the sphinxes, the
pyramids, and other gigantic monuments of a great past, and surrounded
by the sights and sounds of Oriental life, has been a holiday tiip to the
traveller bound lakewards.

Hardships of a Ltong Camel Bide.

When he places his foot on the desert sand, and transfers his guns, his
tent, and other appurtenances of travel from the river-boat to the back of
the "ship of the desert" which is to convey him across the Great Bend
of the Nile from Korosko to Abu Hammed, the stern reality of his task
begins. The first day's sun, reflected vviih overpowering force from the
fantastic cliffs and flinty sand of the Korosko Desert, probably burns out
of him any romance that he may have entertained in connection with
Nubian travel ; before the nearest haUing-place is reached, the early
delightful sense of the novelty of riding on camel-back has given place
',.') 9 hearty detestation of the uneasy motion, the slow progress, and the
abom!n:i-i!e ttniper of that overlauded brute.

Dr. Naf-h'ciga' the celebra'cd African e.xplorer, w4s once the guest of a
nch Hamburg *n*^r':haiit. i'hc merchant's son, a young man of a some-

THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

441

et he succeeded
le admiration of
He was a man
rrifice which he
arvellous career
jroes; it is also
commerce, their
ninent of Africa

ney through the
dan; in fact, the
itself is a Trop-

ied the Nubian
he dreary desert
: region of Cen-

ve no adequate
2s and discour-
Drising contrast
r stages of his
ir and brilliant
e sphinxes, the
nd surrounded
iday trip to the

-s his guns, his

to the back of

[he Great Bend

lity of his task

force from the

ibly burns out

^nncction with

led, the early

IS given place

Igress, and the

what sentimental temperament, said, among other things, that his dearest
wi^h was to ride across the desert on the back of a camel. He thought
such a ride must be very poetic indeed. " My dear young friend,"
replied the explorer, " I can tell you how you can get a partial idea of
what riding a camel on the deser;s of Africa is like. Take an office
stool, screw it up as high as possible, and put it in a wagon without any
springs, then seat yourself on the stool, and have it drawn over rocky
and uneven ground, during the hottest wiather of July or August, after
you have not had anything to eat or drink for twenty-four hours, and
then you will get a faint idea of how delightfully poetic it is to ride on a
camel in the wilds of Africa."

Travclliugr Tliroiif^h a Furnace.

Soon you are glad to abandon travel in the full blaze of day, with its
blistering glare from rock and sand, the pitiless sun overhead, and the
furnace-like breath of the desert air, and you march at night, when the
earth is growing cool again, under the great stars. Here and there, as
you descend into the bed of a " wady," or dry-water course, the eye is
relieved for an instant by a patch of green verdure, a frightened gazelle
dashes away to the shelter of the nearest sand-hills, or a glimpse is
caught of a naked Arab youth tending his flock of goats; for even the
desert is not entirely void of plant and animal life, though ever/ living
thing seems to partake of the arid nature and to bear the dusty colors of
the surrounding waste. Even rain is not altogether unknown, and it is
looked for at least on e every winter season, although sometimes four
years will pass without a fall.

At these times the clouds that have drifted up from the distant Indian
Ocean may be seen pitching their black tents about the summits of tho
mountain ridges that divide the Nile Valley from '' e Red Sea. The
nomad \::>.u i.-'bes, tlic only inhabitants of these tb y hdls, watch theni
r-'ih breathless hope. A north wind may blow
kift them back whence they came. More lively '
fitorm — the whole of the storms of a season com]
onslaught of lightning and rain. The dry wn'
:<re roaring torrents by morning, bearing down j
water for one day in th .' year at least.

For one day also, or perhaps for some weeks, the earth and air art,
swept of their impurities, and the face of the desert begins to look fresh
and verdant, as grass and p'ants spring up rapidly on every hand ; but
then again the drougiit and the heat return, ar^I nature withers more
rapidly than it sprang to life. There aie spots, however, well known to

ing the night and

y burst in thundcr-

ssed into one furious

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THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

443

the Arab shepherd and camel-driver, where there are running water and
green turf all the year round, or where, sheltered perhaps by the naked
rocks of some deep ravine, a little oasis of palm and tamarisk trees is to
be found. These are the halting-places on the march — the stepping-
stones by means of which alone this howling wilderness may be crossed.
Sometimes the wells fail, or are poisoned, or a predatory band occupies
"he springs ; and then the unfortunate traveller has to face the peril of
Icath from thirst or exhaustion as the fainting caravan is hurried forward
io the next halting-place. In any case he is fervently thankful when the
shining waters of the Nile come again into sight at Abu Hammed, and
fhis doleful stage of his desert wandering is at a close.

Uaker*8 Dcseriptf \)ii of a Camel Rido.

Our hero gives an interesting and withal humorous account of the
experiences of himself and wife voyaging on the " ships of the desert."
He says : When a sharp cut from the stick of the guide induces the
camel to break into a trot, the torture of the rack is a pleasant tickling
compared to the sensation of having your spine driven by a sledge-ham-
mer from below, half a foot deeper into the skull. The human frame may
be inured to almost anythintj ; thus the Arabs, who have always been
accustomed to this kind of exercise, hardly feel the motion, and the por-
tion of the body most subject to pain in riding a rough camel upon two
bare pieces of wood for a saddle, becom i?.turally adapted for such
rough service, as monkeys become hardentU from constantly sitting upon
rou<;li surfaces.

The children commence almost as soon as they are born, as they must
accompany their mothers in their annual migrations ; and no sooner can
the young Arab sit astride and hold on, than he is placed behind his
father's saddle, to which he clings, while he bumps upon the bareback of
the jolting camel. Nature quickly arranges a horny protection to the
nerves by the thickening of the skin; therefore an Arab's opinion of the
action of a riding camel should never be accepted without a personal
'rial. What appears delightful to him may be torture to you, as a strong
breeze and a rough sea uiay be charming to a sailor, but worse than
death to a landsman.

" Warranted to Ride Easy.**

I was determined not to accept the camels now offered until I had seen
them tried ; I a:cord;ngly ordered our black soldier, El Baggar,to saddle
the most easy-actione( animal for my wife ; but I wished to see him put
it through a variety of paces before she should accept it. The delighted
LI Baggar, who from Icng practice was as hard as the heel of a boot.

M 'J

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

disdained a saddle ; the animal knelt, was mounted, and off he started at
full trot, performing a circle of about fifty yards diameter, as though in a
circus. I never saw such an exhibition ! " Warranted quiet to ride, of
easy action, and fit for a lady !" This had been the character received
with the ramp.mt brute, which now, with head and tail erect, went tearing
round the circle, screaming and roaring like a wild beast, throwing his
forelegs forward, and stepping at least three feet high in his trot Where
was El Baggar ?

A disjointed-looking black figure was sometimes on the back of this
iiUF-going camel, sometimes a foot high in the air: arms, head, legs,
hands a;)pearcd like a confused mass of dislocations; the woolly hair of
this unearthly individual, that had been carefully trained in long, stiff,
narrow curls, precisely similar to the tobacco known as "negro-head,"
alternately started upright en masse as though under the influence of
electricity, and then fell as suddenly upon his shoulders ; had the dai k
indi\idual been a "black dose," he or it could not have been more
thoroughly shaken.

This object, so thoroughly disguised by rapidity of movement, was HI
Baggar; happy, delighted hi Baggar! As he came rapidly round
towards us, flourishing his stick, I called to him, " Is that a nice drome-
dary for the Sit (lady), El Baggar? Is it zr/j easy ? " He was almost
incapable of a reply. ** V-e-r-y e-e-a-a-s-y," replied the trustworthy
.tithority, "j-j-j-just the thin-n-n-n-g for the S-i ii-t-t-t." "All ri^'Iit,
that will do," 1 answered, and the jockey pulled up his steed. "Are the
other camels better or worse than that?" I asked. "Much worse,"
replied El Baggar; " the others are rather tough, but this is an easy-goer,
and will sui^ . he lady well."

All £xtraordiiinry Freak of Nature.

It was impossible to hire a good dromedary; an Arab prizes his
riding animal loo much, and invariably refuses to let it to a stranger, but
generally imposes upon him by substituting some lightly-built camel
that he '.hinks will pass muster ; I accordingly chose fur my wife a steady-
going animal from among the baggage-camels, trusting to be al)le to
obtain a better one from the great sheikh, Abou Sinn, who was encamped
upon the road we were about to take along the valley of the Atbara.

Upon arriving at the highest point of the valley, we found ourselves
upon the vast table-land that stretches from the Atbara to the Nile. A*-
this season the entire surface had a faint tint of green, as the young shoots
of grass had rej)lied to the late showers of rain ; so perfect a level was
thia great tract of fertile country, that within a mile of the valley of the

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(445)

440

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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Atbara there was neither furrow nor water-course, but the escape of the
rainfall was by simple soakage. As usual, the land was dotted with
mimosas, all of which were now bursting into leaf.

The thorns of the diflferent varieties of these trees arc an extraordinary
freak of Nature, as she appears to have exhausted all her art in producing
an apparently useless arrangement of defence. The mimosas that are
most common in the Soudan provinces are mere bushes, seldom excecdin^r
sixteen feet in height; these spread out toward the top like mushrooms,
but the branches commence within two feet of the ground ; they arc
armed with thorns in the shape of fish-hooks, which they resemble in
sharpness and strength. A thick jungle composed of such bushes is per-
fectly impenetrable to any animals but elephants, rhinoceroses and buf-
faloes, and should the clothes of a man become entangled in such thorns,
either they must give way or he must remain a prisoner. The mimosa
that is known among the Arabs as the kittar, is one of the worst species, and
is probably similar to that which caught Absalom by the hair ; this differs
from the well-known *' wait-a-bit " of South Africa, as no milder nickname
could be applied than " dead-stop." Were the clothes of strong mate-
rial, it would be impossible to break through a kittar-bush.
Camel Pliiiigring- Into Thorn Bushes.

A magnificent specimen of a kittar, with a wide-spreading head in the
young glory of green leaf, tempted my hungry camel durip<T our march ;
it was determined to procure a mouthful, and I was equally determined
that it should keep to the straight path, and avoid the attraction of the
green food. After some strong remonstrance upon my part, the perverse
beast shook its ugly head, gave a roar, and .started off in full trot straij;ht
at the thorny bush. I had not the slightest control over the animal, and
in a few seconds it charged the bush, with the mad intention of rushing'
either through or beneath it. To my disgust, I perceived that the wide-
spreading branches were only just sufficiently high to permit the back of
the camel to piss underneath.

There was no time for further consideration ; we charged the bush ; 1
held my head doubled up between my arms, and the next moment I wa«
on my back, half stunned by the fall. The camel-saddle lay upon the
ground, my rifle, that had been slung behind, my coffee-pot, the burst
water-skin, and a host of other appurtenances, lay around me in all direc-
tions ; worst of all, my beautiful gold repeater lay at some distance from
me, rendered entirely useless. I was as nearly naked as I could be; a
few rags held together, but my shirt was gone, with the exception of
some shreds that adhered to my arms. I was, of course, streaming with

THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

447

blood, and looked much more as though I had been clawed by a leopard
than as having simply charged a bush. The camel had fallen down with
the shock, after I had ben swept off by the horny branches. To this
day I have the marks of the scratching.

Unless a riding-carnel is perfectly trained, it is the most tiresome
animal to ride, after the first green leaves appear ; every bush tempts it
from the path, and it is a perpetual fight between the rider and his beast
throughout the journey. The Arab soldier who mounts his beast and
darts away over the desert of sand does not encounter the obstacles that
btset our path.

VENOMOUS SCORPION.

Wc shortly halted for the night, as I had noticed unmistakable signs
of an approaching storm. We quickly pitched the tents, grubbed up the
root and stem of a decayed mimosa, and lighted a fire, by the side of
which our people sat in a circle. Hardly had the pile begun to blaze,
when a cry from Mahomet's new relative, Achmet, informed us that he
had been bitten by a scorpion. Mahomet appeared to think this highly
entertaining, until suddenly he screamed out likewise, and springing
from the ground, he began to stamp and wring his hands in great agony ;
he had himself been bitten, and we found that a whole nest of scorpions

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(716) 872-4503

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

were in the rotten wood lately thrown upon the fire ; in their flight from
the heat they sturg all whom they met.

There was no time to prepare food ; the thunder already roared above
us, and in a few minutes the sky, lately so clear, was as black as ink. I
ha J already prepared for the storm, and the baggage was piled within
the tent ; the ropes of the tents had been left slack to allow for the con-
traction, and we were ready for the rain. It was fortunate that we were
in order; a rain descended with an accompaniment of thunder and light-
ping, of a volume unknown to the inhabitants of cooler climates; forsev-
eral hours there was almost an uninterrupted roar of the most deafeninp
peals, with lightning so vivid that our tent was completely lighted up in
the darkness of the night, and its misery displayed. Not only was the
rain pouring through the roof, so that we were wet through as we
crouched upon our angareps (stretchers), but the legs of our bedstead
stood in more than six inches of water.

Being as wet as I could be, I resolved to enjoy the scene outside the
tent; it was curious in the extreme. Flash aftei flash of sharp forked
lightning played upon the surface of a boundless lake; the'-e was not a
foot of land visible, but the numerous dark bushes, projecting from the
surface of the water, destroyed the illusion of depth that the scene would
otherwise have suggested. The rain ceased ; but the entire country was
flooded several inches deep, and when the more distant lightning flashed,
as the storm rolled away, I saw the camels lying like statues built into
the lake. On the following morning the whole of this great mass of
water had been absorbed by the soil, which had become so adhesive and
slippery that it was impossible for the camels to move ; we therefore
waited for some hours, until the intense heat of the sun had dried the sur-
face sufficiently to allow the animals to proceed.

A Regrimeiit of Scorpions.

Upon striking the tent, we found beneath the volance, between the
crown and the walls, a regiment of scorpions ; the flood had doubtless
destroyed great numbers within their holes, but these, having been dis-
turbed by the deluge, had found an asylum by crawling up the tent
walls : with great difHculty we lighted a fire, and committed them all tc
the flames. Mahomet made a great fuss about his hand, which was cer-
tainly much swollen, but not worse than that of Achmet, who did not
complain, although during the night he had been again bitten on the leg
by one of these venomous insects, that had crawled from the water upon
his clothes.

Our last chapter left Mr, and Mrs. Baker at Khartoum. As the gov-

THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

4i»

ernment of Soudan refused to supply Baker with properly-trained soldiers,
the only men he could get for an escort were the barbarous ruffians of
Khartoum, who had been accustomed all their lives to plunder in the
White Nile trade ; yet, such as they were, he was compelled to put up
with them, though he would undoubtedly have done better had he gone
without such an escort. The voyage alone to Gondokoro, the navigable
limit of the Nile, was likely to occupy about fifty days, so that a large
supply of provisions was necessary.

Says Baker : To organize an enterprise so difficult that it had hitherto
defeated the whole world required a careful selection of attendants, and I
looked with despair at the prospect before me. The only men procurable
for escort were the miserable cut-throats of Khartoum, accustomed to
murder and pillage in the White Nile trade, and excited not by the love
of adventure but by the desire for plunder : to start with such men
appeared mere insanity. An exploration to the Nile sources was a march
through an enemy's country, and required a powerful force of well-armed
men. For the traders there was no great difficulty, as they took the
initiative in hositilities and had fixed camps as supply stations, but for
an explorer there was no alternative but a direct forward march without
any communications with the rear.

The preparations for such a voyage are no trifles. I required forty-five
armed men as escort, forty men as sailors, which, with servants, etc.,
raised my party to ninety-six. In the hope of meeting Speke and Grant's
party, I loaded the boats with an extra quantity of corn.

Tbe Carpenter Johann.

In all the detail, I was much assisted by a most excellent man whom
I had engaged to accompany me as my head-man, a German carpenter,
Joliann Schmidt. I had formerly met him hunting on the banks of the
Settite river, in the Bas6 country, where he was purchasing living ani-
mals from the Arabs, for a contractor to a menagerie in Europe ; he was
an excellent sportsman, and an energetic and courageous fellow ; per-
fectly sober and honest. Alas ! " the spirit was wiping, but the flesh
was weak," and a hollow cough, and emaciation, atteuvled with hurried
respiration, suggested disease of the lungs.

Day after day he faded gradually, and I endeavored to persuac'e hitn
not to venture upon such a perilous journey as that before me : nothing
would persuade him that he was in danger, and he had an idea that tiv.
chmate of Khartoum was more injurious than the White Nile, and tha^
the voyage would improve his health. Full of good feeling, and a wi.ih
to please, he persisted in working and perfecting the various arrange-*

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ments, when he should have been saving his strength for a se\'ercr
trial.

Soon afterward the German carpenter breathed his last. Baker gives
an affecting account of his last moments : Johann is in a dying state, but
sensible ; all his hopes, poor fellow, of saving money in my service and
returning to Bavaria are past. I sat by his bed for some hours ; there
was not a ray of hope ; he could speak with difficulty, and the flJes
walked across his glazed eyeballs without his knowledge. Gently bath-
ing his face and hands, I asked him if I could deliver any message to his
relatives. He faintly uttered, "I am prepared to die; I have neither
parents nor relations ; but there is one — she — " he faltered. He could not
finish his sentence, but his dying thoughts were with one he loved ; far,
far away from this wild and miserable land, his spirit was transported to
his native village, and to the object that made life dear to him. Did not
a shudder pass over her, a chill warning at that sad moment when all
was passing away ? I pressed his cold hand, and asked her name.
Gathering his remaining strength he murmured, " Krombach." Krom-
bach was merely the name of his native village in Bavaria.

" Es bleibt nur zu sterben." " Ich bin sehr dankbar." These were the
last words he spoke, " I am very grateful." I gazed sorrowfully at his
attenuated figure, and at the now powerless hand that had laid low many
an elephant and lion, in its da,y of strength ; and the cold sweat of death
lay thick upon his forehead. Although the pulse was not yet still,
Johann was gone.

I made a huge cross with my own hands from the trunk of a tamarind
tree, and by moonlight we laid him in his grave in this lonely spot.

" No useless coffin enclosed his breast.
Nor in sheet nor in shroud we wound him ;
But he lay like a pilgrim taking his rest,
With his mantle drawn around him."

This is a mournful commencement of the voyage. Poor fellow, I did all
I could for him although that was but little ; and hands far more tender
than mine ministered to his last necessities.

Celebrated Tribe of Blacks.

Soon the expedition was sailing past the country inhabited by the
Shiilooks, the largest and most powerful black tribe on the banks of the
White Nile. They are very wealthy, and possess immense herds of cat-
tle; are also agriculturists, fishermen, and warriors. Their huts are
regularly built, looking at a distance like rows of button mushrooms.
riiey embark boldly on the river in their raft-like canoes, formed of the

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THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

461

r a severer

excessively light ambatch-wood. The tree is of no great thickness, and
tapers gradually to a point. It is thus easily cut down, and, several
trunks being lashed together, a . canoe is quickly formed. A war party
on several occasions, embarking in a fleet of these rafts, have descended
tiie river, and made raids on other tribes, carrying off women and chil-
dren as captives, and large herds of cattle.
Nothing can be more melancholy and uninteresting than the general

NATIVES OF THE NILE REGION.

appearance of the banks of the river. At times vast marshes alone could
be seen, at others an immense expanse of sandy desert, with huge ant-
hills ten feet high rising above them.

While stopping at a village on the right bank, Baker received a visit
from the chief of the Nuehr tribe and a number of his followers.

Contrary to the usual custom, this tribe possesses land on both sides
of the Nile, which in the midst of their territory spreads itself into a lake-

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The Nuehr are a fine-looking race of savages, and very like savages they
look. The men are tall, powerful, and well-formed, but their features
approach the negro type, and are heavier and coarser than those of the
tribes which have been previously mentioned. The women are not
pearly so good-looking as the men, anu are rather clumsily built.

Very Cheap Style of Dress.

Neither sex is much troubled with clothes. The males never wear any
clothes at all ; nor do the females, until they are married, when they tic
a fringe of grass round their waists, some of the wealthier women beino-
able to use a leathern fringe, of which they are very proud. Theii; orna-
ments really seem to serve no other purpose but to disfigure the wearers
as much as possible. Beginning with the head, the men stain their
woolly hair of a dusty red by a mixture of which ashes form the chief
part. They then take a sort of pipe- clay, and plaster it thickly into the
hair at the back part of the head, dressing it up and shaping it until it is
formed into a cone, the shape of the ornament varying according to the
caprice* of the individual. By means of this clay head-dress the hair is
thrown back from the face, the expression of which is not improved by
the horizontal lines that are tattooed across it.

The natural glossy black of the skin, which has so pleasing an appear-
ance, is utterly destroyed by a coating of wood ashes, which gives to the
surface a kind of grayish look. On the upper arm they generally wear
a large armlet of ivory, and have heavy coils of beads round their necks.
The wrists are adorned with rings of copper and other ornaments, and on
the right wrist they carry an iron ring armed with projecting blades, very
similar to that which is worn by the Latookas.

Joctian, the chief of the Nuehr tribe, was asked by Baker what was the
use of this weapon, and by way of answer he simply pointed to his wife's
arms and back, which were covered with scars produced by this primi-
tive wife-tamer. He seemed quite proud of these marks, and evidently
considered them merely as ocular proofs that his wife was properly sub-
servient to her husband. In common with the rest of his tribe, he had a
small bag slung round his neck by way of a pocket, which held bits of
wood, beads, and all kinds of trifles. He asked for everything he saw,
and, when anything of small size was given him, it straightway went into

the bag.

TraitH of the Nuehr Tribe.

Still, putting aside these two traits of cruelty and covetousness, Joctian
seems to have been a tolerably agreeable savage, and went away delighted
with the presents he had received, instead of grumbling that he could

THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

453

not get more, as is the usual way among savage chiefs. It was rather
strange that, although he was so charmed with beads and bracelets, he
declined to accept a knife, saying that it was useless to him. He had in
his hands a huge pipe, holding nearly a quarter of a pound of tobacco.
Every Nuehr man has one of these pipes, which he always carries with
him, and, should his supply of tobacco be exhausted, he lights a piece of
charcoal, puts it into his pipe, and inhales the vapor that it draws from
the tobacco-saturated bowl.

The women are not so much adorned as the men, probably because
the stronger sex prefer to use the ornaments themselves. At a little dis-
tance the women all look as if they were smoking cigarettes. This odd
appearance is caused by a strange ornament which they wear in their
upper lip. They take a piece of iron wire, about four inches in length,
and cover it with small beads. A hole is then pierced in the upper lip,
and the ornament inserted, so as to project forward and rather upward.
The Nuehr are very fond of beads, and are glad to exchange articles
of food for them. One kind of bead, about the size and shape of a pig-
eon's egg, is greatly valued by them; and, when Mr. Petherick was
travelling through their country, he purchased an ox for eight such
beads. The chief came on board the boat, and, as usual, asked for
everything he saw.

Ludicrous Attempt to Get Into Shoes.
Among other odd things he set his affections on Mr. Petherick's shoes,
which, as they were nearly worn out, were presented to him. Of course
they were much too small *for him, and the attempts which he made to
put them on were very amusing. After many failures, he determined on
taking them home, where he thought he might be able to get them on
by greasing his feet well.

When the chief entered the cabin, and saw the wonders of civilized
life, he was quite overcome with the novel grandeur, and proceeded to
kneel on one knee, in order to give the salutation due to a great chief.
"Grasping my right hand, and turning up the palm, he quietly spat into
it, and then, looking into my face, he deliberately repeated the process.
Staggered at the man's audacity, my first impulse was to knock him
down, but, his features expressing kindness only, I vented my rage by
returning the compliment with all possible interest. His delight seemed
excessive, and, resuming his seat, he expressed his conviction that I must
be a great chief. Similar salutes followed with each of his attendants, and
friendship was established." This strange salutation extends through
many of the tribes that surround the Nuehr.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Sailing on d«iy after day, with marshes and dead flats alone in sight,
mosquitoes preventing rest even in the day, Baker and his party at
length arrived at the station of a White Nile trader, where large herds of
cattle were seen on the banks.

Visit From a Chief and His Daugrliter.

They were here visited by the chief of the Kytch tribe and his daughter a
girl of about sixteen, better looking than most of her race. The father wore
a leopard-skin across his shoulder, and a skull-cap of white beads, with a
crest of white ostrich feathers. But this mantle was the only garment
he had on. His daughter's clothing consisted only of a piece of dressed
hide hanging over one shoulder, more for ornament than use, as the rest
of her body was entirely destitute of covering. The men, though tall
were wretchedly thin, and the children mere skeletons.

While the travellers remained here, they were beset by starving crowds,
bringing small gourd shells to receive the expected corn. The natives,
indeed, seem to'trust entirely to the productions of nature for their sub-
sistence, and are the most pitiable set of savages that can be imagined,
their long thin legs and arms giving them a peculiar gnat-like appearance.
They devour both the skin and bones of dead animals. The bones are
pounded between stones, and, when reduced to powder, boiled to form a
kind of porridge.

It is remarkable that in every herd they have a sacred bull, who is
supposed to have an influence over the prosperity of the rest. His horns
are ornamented with tufts of feathers, and frequently with small bells,
and he invariably leads the great herd to pasture.

A short visit was paid to the Austrian mission stationed at St. Croix,
which has proved a perfect failure — indeed, that very morning it was sold
to an Egytian for $150. It was here the unfortunate Baron Harnier, a
Prussian nobleman, was killed by a bufialo which he had attacked in the
hopes of saving the life of a native whom the bufialo had struck down.

Termination of tlie Voyag-e.

The voyage terminated at Gondokoro on the 2d of February. The
country is a great improvement to the interminable marshes at the lower
part of the river, being raised about twenty feet above the water, while
distant mountains relieve the eye, and evergreen trees, scattered in all
directions, shading the native villages, form an inviting landscape. A
few miserable grass huts alone, however, form the town, if it deserves
that name.

A large number of men belonging to the various traders were assem-
bled here, who looked upon the travellers with anything but friendly

THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE.

455

eyes. As Mr. Baker heard that a party wp;re expected at Gondokoro
from the interior with ivory in a few days, ht determined to await their
arrival, in hopes that their porters would be ready to carry his baggage.
In the meantime he rode about the neighborhood, studying the place and
oeople.

The native dwellings are the perfection of cleanliness. The domicile
ot each family is surrounded by a hedge of euphorbia, and the interior of
the enclosure generally consists of a yard neatly plastered. Upon this
cleanly-swept surface are one or more huts, surrounded by granaries of
neat wicker-work, thatched, and resting upon raised platforms. The
huts have projecting roofs, in order to afford a shade, and the entrance is
usually about two feet high.

The natives are of the Bari tribe. They are a warlike and dangerous
tribe, being well armed and capable of using their weapons, so that a
traveller who wishes to pass safely through their land must be able to
show an armed front. When Captains Speke and Grant passed through
their country, an umbrella was accidentally kft behind, and some of the
men sent to fetch it. The Bari, however, drew up in battle array, evi-
denty knowing that without their leaders the men might be safely
bullied, so that the umbrella was left to the mercies of the Bari chief.

Owing to their position on the Nile, they do a great business in the
slave trade, for as far as Gondokoro, the capital of the Bari country,
steamers have been able to ascend the river. Consequently, every party
of strangers is supposed — and mostly with truth — to be a slaving expe-
dition, and is dreaded by one part of the population, while it is courted
by the other. The quarrelsome disposition of the Bari has often brought
them into collision with the traders, and, as might be imagined, the
su{)erior arms and discipline of the latter have given them such a superi-
ority, that the Bari are not as troublesome as they used to be. Still, they
are always on the watch for an opportunity of extortion, and, if a traveller
even sits under a tree, they will demand payment for its shade.

Unpleasant as these Bari are in their ordinary state, they can be trained
into good and faithful attendants, and are excellent material for soldiers.
On one occasion, when a large party had attacked a body of traders,
killed the standard-bearer, and nearly carded ofT the standard itself, a
young Bari boy came to the rescue, shot with his pistol the man who
was carrying off the standard, snatched it from him, and took it safely to
his master.

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CHAPTER XXI.

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

Attempts to Shoot Baker— Desperate Mutiny in Cami>— Notable Arrival -^Meeting
Grant and Speke— The Little Black Boy from Khartoum— Fresh Plot Among
Baker's Men— Disarming the Conspirators — Heroism in the Face of Danger-
Mutinous Turks Driven Over a Precipice — Horrible Fate of Deserters— Exciting
Elephant Hunt — March Through Beautiful Hunting Grounds — Thrilling Encoun-
ter—The Huge Beast Turning on His Foes — Cowardly Followers— Elephant
Nearly Caught — Wild Beasts Screaming Like a Steam Whistle — Tales of Narrow
Escapes — African and Indian Elephants — Elephants in War— The Explorers at
Obbo— Crafty Old Chief— Trouble to Get Rain— Spirited Dance of Obbos-
Trying to Trade Wives— Satanic Escort — Grotesque Parade — Serious Illness oi
Mrs. Baker — Beautiful Landscape — Travelling in Canoes — Storm on the Lake-
Tropical Hurricane — Dangers of the Lake Tour— The Explorers Advancing
Under Difficulties — Continued Attacks of Fever — Life Endangered by Travelling
in the Tropics.

^UR traveller was looked upon at Gondokoro with suspicion. Sev-
eral attempts were made to shoot him, and a boy was killed by a
shot from the shore, on board his vessel. His men were imme-
diately tampered with by the traders, and signs of discontent soon
appeared among them. They declared that they had not sufficient meat,
and that they must be allowed to make a razzia upon the cattle of the
natives to procure oxen. This demand being refused, they became more
insolent, and accordingly Mr. Baker ordered the ringleader, an Arab, to
be seized and to receive twenty-five lashes.

Upon approaching to capture the fellow, most of the men laid dojvn
their guns and, seizing sticks, rushed to his rescue. Mr. Baker, on this,
sprang forward, sent their leader by a blow of his fist into their midst,
and then, seizing him by the throat, called for a rope to bind him. The
men, still intent on their object, surrounded Mr. Baker, when Mrs. Baker
landing from the vessel, made her way to the spot. Her sudden appear-
ance caused the mutineers to hesitate, when Mr. Baker shouted to the
drummer-boy to beat the drum, and then ordered the men to fall in.
Two-thirds obeyed him, and formed in line, while the remainder retreated
with their ringleader.

At this critical moment Mrs. Baker implored her husband to forgive
the mutineer, if he would kiss his hand and beg his pardon. This com-
promise completely won the men, who now called upon their ringleader
(456)

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

467

to apologize, and all would be right. This he did, and Mr. Baker made
them rather a bitter speech and dismissed them. This, unhappily, was
only the first exuibitioii of their mutinuous disposition, which nearly
ruined the expedition, and might have led to the destruction of the trav-
ellers.

Notable Arrival.

A few days afterwards guns v/ere heard in the distance, and news came
that two white men had arrived from " the sea " 1 They proved to be
Grant and Speke, who had just come from the Victoria Nyanza. Both
looked travel-worn. Speke, who had walked the whole distance from
Zanzibar, was excessively lean, but in reality in good tough condition.
Grant's garment?; were well-nigh worn out, but both of them had that
fire in the eye which showed the spirit that had led them through many
dangers.

They had heard of another lake to the westward of the Nyanza, known
as the Luta Nzige, which Speke felt convinced was a second source of
the Nile. Accordingly, he and Grant having generously furnished him
with as perfect a map as they could produce. Baker determined to explore
the lake, while his friends, embarking in his boats, sailed down the Nile
on their voyage homeward.

His men, notwithstanding the lesson they had received, still exhibited
a determined mutinous disposition, and in every way neglected their
duties. Happily for him, he had among his attendants a little black
boy, Saati, who, having been brought as a slave from the interior, had
been for a time in the Austrian mission, from which, with many other
slaves, he was turned out. Wandering about the streets of Khartoum,
he heard of Mr. and Mrs. Baker, and, making his way to their house,
threw himself at the lady's feet, and implored to be allowed to follow
them. Hearing at the mission that he was superior to his juvenile com-
panions, they accepted his services, and, being thoroughly washed, and
attired in trousers, blouse, and belt, he appeared a different creature.
From that time he considered himself as belonging entirely to Mrs,
Baker, and to serve her was his greatest pride. She in return endeavored
to instruct him, and gave him anecdotes from the Bible, combined with
the first principles of Christianity. •

«« Down With Your Guns This Moment I »'

Through the means of young Saati, Mr. Baker heard of a plot among
the Khartoum escort, to desert him with their arms and ammunition, and
to fire at him should he attempt to disarm them. The locks of their
guns had, by his orders, been covered with pieces of mackintosh. Direct-

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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ing Mrs. Baker to stand behind him, he placed outside hi** te.it, on his
travelling bedstead, five double-barrelled guns loaded with uuck-shot, a
revolver, and a naked sabre. A sixth rifle ho kept in his own hands,
while Richarn and Saati stood behind him with double-barrelled guns.

He then ordered the drum to beat, and all the men to form in line of
marching order while he requested Mrs. Baker to point out any man
who should attempt to uncover his lock when he gave the order to lav
down their arms. In the event of the attempt being made, he intended
to shoot the man immediately. At the sound of the drum only fifteen
assembled. He then ordered them to lay down their arms. This, with
insolent looks of defiance, they refused to do.

" Down with your guns this moment ! " he shouted.

At the sharp click of the locks, as he quickly capped the rifle in his
hand, the cowardly mutineers widened their line and wavered ; some
retreated a few paces, others sat down and laid their guns on the ground,
•while the remainder slowly dispersed, and sat in twos or singly under
the various trees about eighty paces distant. On advancing they capi-
tulated, agreeing to give up their arms and ammunition on receiving a
written discharge. They were immediately disarmed. The discharge
was made out, when upon each paper Mr. Baker wrote the word "muti-
neer " above his signature. Finally, nearly the whole of the escort
deserted, taking service with the traders.

Heroism in the Face of Danger.

Not to be defeated, Baker obtained a Bari boy as interpreter, deter-
mined at all hazards to start from Gondokoro. A party of traders under
one Koorshid, who had lately arrived from Latooka and were about to
return, not only refused to allow the travellers to accompany them, but
declared their intention of forcibly driving them back, should they attempt
to advance by their route. This served as an excuse to the remainder of
his escort for not proceeding. Saati discovered another plot, his men
having been won over by Mahomet Her, another trader.

Notwithstanding the danger he was running, Mr. Baker compelled his
men to march, and by a clever manoeuvre got ahead of the party led
by Ibrahim, Koorshid's guide. Finally, by wonderful tact, assisted by
M^rs. Baker, he won over Ibrahim, and induced him to render him all the
assistance in his power.

Aided by his new friend, he arrived at TarrangoUe, one of tl e princi-
pal places in the Latooka country, a hundred miles from Goi.dokoro,
which, though out of his direct route, would, he hoped, enable him
with great ease finally to reach Unyoro, the territory of Kamrasi. In

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

459

the meantime, however, several of his men had deserted and joined
Mahomet Her. He had warned them that they would repent of their
folly. His warnings were curiously fulfilled.

NcA's soon arrived that Mahomet Her, with a party of a hundred and
ten armed men, in addition to three hundred natives, had made a raid
upon a certain village among the mountains for slaves and cattle. Hav-
ing succeeded in burning the village and capturing a number of slaves,
as they were re-ascending the mountain to obtain a herd of cattle they
had heard of, they were attacked by a large body of Latookas, lying in
ambush among the rocks on the mountain side.

Driven Over a Precipice.

In vain the Turks fought ; every bullet aimed at a Latooka struck a
rock, while rocks, stones, and lances were hurled at them from all sides
and from above. Compelled to retreat, they were seized with a panic,
and took to flight. Hemmed in by their foes, who showered lances and
stones on their heads, they fled down the rocky and perpendicular
ravines. Mistaking their road, they came to a precipice from which
there was no retreat.

The screaming and yelling savages closed round them. All was use-
less ; not an enemy could they shoot, while the savages thrust them for-
ward with wild yells to the very verge of a precipice fiVe hundred feet
high. Over it they were driven, hurled to destruction by the mass of
Latookas pressing onward. A few fought to the last ; but all were at
length forced over the edge of the clifif, and met the just reward of their
atrocities. No quarter had been given, and upwards of two hundred of
the natives who had joined the slave-hunters in the attack, had fallen
with them.

Mahomet Her had not accompanied his party, and escaped, though
utterly ruined. The result of this catastrophe was highly beneficial to
Mr. Baker.

" Where are the men who deserted me ? " he asked of those who still
remained with him.

Without speaking, they brought two of his guns covered with clotted
jlood mixed with sand. Their owners' names 'were known to him by
the marks on the stocks. He mentioned them.

" Are they all dead ? " he asked.

" All dead," the men replied.

" Food for the vultures," he observed. " Better for them had they
remained with me and done their duty." He had before told his men
that the vultures would pick the bones of the deserters.

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460

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Notwithstanding the dangers of his position, Mr. Baker frequently
went out shooting, and, among other animals, he killed an enormous ele-
phant. He was among the well-known Latooka tribe, whose fantastic
funeral dance has been described in a previous chapter.

Baker gives the following graphic account of his adventures in pursuit
of the game in which this part of Africa abounds :

I started at 5 a. m. with my three horses and two camels, the lattei
carrying water and food. After a march of two or three hours through
the beautiful hunting-grounds formed by the valley of Latooka, with its
alternate prairies and jungles, I came upon the tracks of rhinoceros,
giraffes, and elephants, and shortly moved a rhinoceros, but could get
n*^ shot, owing to the, thick bush in which he started and disappeared
quicker than I could dismount. After a short circuit in search of the
rhinoceros, we came upon a large herd of buffaloes, but at the same
moment we heard elephants trumpeting at the foot of the mountains.
Not wishing to fire, lest the great game should be disturbed, I contented
myself with riding after the buffaloes, wonderfully followed oh foot by
Adda, one of my men, who ran like a deer, and almost kept up to my
horse, hurling his three lances successively at the buff?!oes, but without
success.

Thrilling Encounter.

I had left the camels in an open plain, and returning from the gallop
after the buffaloes, I saw the men on the camels beckoning to me in great
excitement. Cantering towards them, they explained that a herd of bull
elephants had just crossed an open space, and had passed into the jungle
beyond. There was evidently abundance of game ; and calling my men
together, I told them to keep close to me with the spare horses and rifles,
while I sent the Latookas ahead to look out for the elephants : we fol-
lowed at a short distance.

In about ten minutes we saw the Latookas hurrying towards us, and
almost immediately after, I saw two enormous bull elephants with
splendid tusks about a hundred yards from us, apparently the leaders 0^
an approaching herd. The ground was exceedingly favorable, being tol-
erably open, and yet with sufficient bush to afford a slight cover. Pres-
ently, several elephants appeared and joined the two leaders — there waj.
evidently a considerable number in the herd, and I was on the point of
dismounting to take the first shot on foot, when the Latookas, too eager,
approached the herd; their red and blue helmets at once attracted the
attention of the elephants, and a tremendous rush took place, the whole
herd closing together and tearing off at full speed. ** Follow me ! " I

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

4G1

me m great

hallooed to my men, and touching my horse with the spur, I intended to
jiish into the midst of tiie herd.

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Just at that instant, in his start, my horse slipped and fell suddenly
upon his side, falling upon my right leg and thus pinning me to the

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462

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ground. He was not up to my weight, and releasing myself, I iinmedi*
ately mounted my old Abyssinian hunter, " Tetel," and followed the
tracks of the elephants at full speed, accompanied by two of the Latookas,
who ran like hounds. Galloping through the green but thornless bush
\ soon came in sight of a grand bull elephant, steaming along like a loco-
■notive engine straight before me. Digging in the spurs, I was soon
within twenty yards of him ; but the ground was so unfavorable, being
full of buffalo holes, that I could not pass him. In about a quarter of an
hour, after a careful chase over deep ruts and gullies concealed in hif^h
grass, I arrived at a level space, and shooting ahead, I gave him a shoul-
der shot. I saw the wound in a good place, but the bull rushed along
all the quicker, and again we came into bad ground that made it unwise
to close. However, on the first opportunity I made a dash by him, and
fired my left-hand barrel at full gallop. He slackened his speed, but I
could not halt to reload, lest I should lose sight of him in the high grass

and bush;

The Huge Beast Faces His Foes.

Not a man was with me to hand a spare rifle. My cowardly fellows,
although light-weights and well mounted, were nowhere ; the natives
were outrun, as of course was Richarn, who, not being a good rider, had
preferred to hunt on foot. In vain -I shouted for the men ; and I followed
the elephant with an empty rifle for about ten minutes, until he suddenly
turned round, and stood facing me in an open spot in grass about nine
or ten feet high. " T"*-?^ " was a grand horse for elephants, not having
the slightest fear, and . .a ding fire like a rock, not even starting under
the discharge of the .' les; charge of powder. I now commenced re-
loading, when presently one of my men, Yaseen, came up upon my
horse " Filfil." Taking a spare gun from him, I rode rapidly past the
elephant, and suddenly reining up, I made a good shot exactly behind
the bladebone. With a shrill scream the elephant charged down upon
me like a steam-engine. In went the spurs. " Tetel " knew his work^
and away he went over the ruts and gullies, the high dry grass whistling
in my ears as we shot along at full speed, closely followed by the enraged
bull for about two hundred yards.

The elephant then halted; and turning the horse's head, I again facea
him and reloaded. Just at this moment I heard the rush of elephants
advancing through the green bush upon the rising ground above the
hollow formed by the open space of high withered grass in which we
were standing facing each other. My man Yaseen had bolted with his
fleet horse at the first charge, and was not to be seen.

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

463

Presently, the rushing sound increased, and the heads of a closely-
packed herd of about eighteen elephants showed above the low bushes,
and they broke cover, bearing down directly upon me, both I and my
horse being unobserved in the high grass. I never saw a more lovely
sight ; they were all bulls with immense tusks. Waiting until they were
within twenty yards of me I galloped straight at them, giving a yell that
turned them. Away they rushed up the hill, but at so great a pace, that
upon the rutty and broken ground I could not overtake them, and they
completely distanced me. "Tetel," although a wonderfully steady
hunter, was an uncommonly slow horse, but upon this day he appeared
to be slower than usual, and I was not at the time aware that he was
seriously ill.

Cowardly Followers.

By following three elephants separated from the herd I came up to
them by a short cut, and singling out a fellow with enormous tusks, I
rode straight at him. Finding himself overhauled, he charged me with
such qickness and followed me up so far, that it was with the greatest
difficulty that I cleared him. When he turned, I at once returned to the
attack; but he entered a thick thorny jungle through which no horse
could follow, and I failed to obtain a shot.

I was looking for a path through which I could penetrate the bush,
when I suddenly heard natives shouting in the direction where I had left
the wounded bull. Galloping towards the spot, I met a few scattered
natives ; among others, Adda. After shouting for some time, at length
Yaseen appeared upon my horse " Filfil ; " he had fled as usual when he
saw the troop of elephants advancing, and no one knows how far he had
ridden before he thought it safe to look behind him. With two mounted
gun-bearers and five others on foot I had been entirely deserted through
the cowardice of my men.

The elephant that I had left as dying, was gone. One of the Latookas
had followed upon his tracks, and we heard this fellow shouting in the
distance. I soon overtook him, and he led rapidly upon the track
through thick bushes and high grass. In about a quarter of an hour we
came up with the elephant; he was standing in bush, facing us at about
fifty yards* distance, and immediately perceiving us, he gave ^ saucy
jerk with his head, and charged most determinedly. It was exceedingly
difficult to escape, owing to the bushes which impeded the horse, while
the elephant crushed them like cobwebs : however, by turning my horse
sharp round a tree, I managed to evade him after a chase of about a hun-
dred and fifty yards.

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IN A WILD COUNTRY.

465

Disappearing in the jungle after his charge, I immediately followed
him. The ground was hard, and so trodden by elephants that it was
difficult to single out the track. There was no blood upon the ground,
but only on the trees every now and then, where he had rubbed past
them in his retreat. After nearly two hours passed in slowly following
upon his path, we suddenly broke cover and saw him travelling very
quietly through an extensive plain of high grass. The ground was gently
inclining upwards on either side the plain, but the level was a mass of
deep, hardened ruts, over which no horse could gallop. Knowing my
friend's character, I rode up the rising ground to reconnoitre : I found it
tolerably clear of holes, and far superior to the rutty bottom. My two
mounted gun-bearers had now joined me, and far from enjoying the
sport, they were almost green with fright, when I ordered them to keep
close to me and to advance. I wanted them to attract the elephant's
attention, so as to enable me to obtain a good shoulder shot.
Ellephant Screaming Like a Steam "Whistle.
Riding along the open plain, I at length arrived within about fifty
yards of the bull, when he slowly turned. Reining " Tetel " up, I imme-
diately fired a steady shot at the shoulder. For a moment he fell upon
his knees, but, recovering with wonderful quickness, he was in full charge
upon me. Fortunately I had inspected my ground previous to the
attack, and away I went up the inclination to my right, the spurs hard at
work, and the elephant screaming with rage, gaining on me.

My hors:: felt as though made of wood, and clumsily rolled along in a
sort of cow-gallop ; — in vain I dug the spurs into his flanks, and urged
him by rein and voice ; not an extra stride could I get out of him, and
he reeled along as though thoroughly exhausted, plunging in and out of
the buffalo holes instead of jumping them. Hamed was on my horse
"Mouse," who went three to '* Tetel's " one, and instead of endeavoring
to divert the elephant's attention, he shot ahead, and thought of nothing
but getting out of the way. Yaseen, on " Filfil," had fled in another
direction; thus I had the pleasure of being hunted down upon a sick and
disabled horse.

I kept looking round, thinking that the elephant would give in : — wt
had been running for nearly half a mile, and the brute was overhauling
me so fast that he was within ten or twelve yards of the horse's tail, with
his trunk stretched out to catch him. Screaming like the whistle of an
engine, he fortunately so frightened the horse that he went his best,
although badly, and I turned him suddenly down the hill and doubled
back like a hare. The elephant turned up the hill, and entering the

*ij

466

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

jungle he relinquished the chase, when another hundred yards' run
would have bagged me.

In a life's experience in elephant-hunting, I never was hunted for such
a distance. Great as were " Tetel's " good qualities for pluck and steadi-
ness, he had exhibited such distress and want of speed, that I was sure
he failed through some sudden malady. I immediately dismounted, and
the horse laid down, as I thought, to die.

Whistling loudly, I at length recalled Hamed, who had still continued
'(lis rapid flight without once looking back, although the elephant was
out of sight. Yascen was, of course, nowhere; but after a qua.ter of an
hour's shouting and whistlintij, he reappeared, and I mounted " Filfil,"
ordering " Tetcl " to be led home.

The sun had just sunk, and the two Latookas who now joined me
refused to go farther on the tracks, saying, that the elephant must die
during the night, and that they would find him in the morning. VVe
were at least ten miles from camp ; I therefore fired a shot to collect my
scattered men, and in about half an hour we all joined together, except
the camels and their drivers, that we had left miles behind.

Tales of Narrow Escapes.

No one had tasted food since the previous day, nor had I drunk
water, although the sun had been burning hot ; I now obtained some
muddy rain water from a puddle, and we went towards home, where we
arrived at half-past eight, everyone tired with the day's work. The
camels came into camp about an \\cS\ir later.

My men were ail now wonderfully brave ; each had some story of a
narrow escape, and several declared that the elephants had run over
them, but fortunately without putting their feet upon them.

The news spread through the town that the elephant was killed ; and,
long before daybreak on the following morning, masses of natives had
started for the jungles, where they found him lying dead. Accordingly,
they stole his magnificent tusks, which they carried to the town of Wak-
kala, and confessed to taking all the flesh, but laid the blame of the ivory
theft upon the Wakkala tribe.

There was no redress. The questions of a right of game are ever pro-
lific of bad blood, and it was necessary in this instance to treat the matter
lightly. Accordingly, the natives requested me to go out and shoot
them another elephant; on the condition of obtaining the meat, they
were ready to join in any hunting expedition.

The elephants in Central Africa have very superior tusks to those of
Abyssinia. I had shot a considerable number in the Base country on

>^ards' run

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and stcadi-

I was sure

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(467)

468

WONDERS OF THE JTROPICS.

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the frontier of Abyssinia, and few tusks were 30 lbs. weight ; those in
the neighborhood of the White Nile average about 50 lbs. for each tusk
of a bull elephant, while those of the females are about 10 lbs. I have
seen monster tusks of 160 lbs., and one was in the possession of a trader
that weighed 172 lbs.

It is seldom that a pair of tusks are fac-simile. As a man uses the
right hand in preference to the left, so the elephant works with a particu-
lar tusk, which is termed by the traders " el Hadam " (the servant) ; this
is naturally more worn than the other, and is usually about ten pounds
lighter ; frequently it is broken, as the elephant uses it as a lever to
uproot trees and to tear up the roots of various bushes upon which he
feeds.

Elephants in War.

The African elephant is not only entirely different from the Indian
species in his habits, but he also differs in form.

There are three distinguishing peculiarities. The back of the African
elephant is concave, that of the Indian is convex ; the ear of the African
is enormous, entirely covering the shoulder when thrown back, while the
ear of the Indian variety is comparatively small. The head of the Afri-
can has a convex front, the top of the skull sloping back at a rapid incli-
nation, while the head of the Indian elephant exposes a flat surface a
little above the trunk. The average size of the African elephant is larger
than those of Ceylon, although I have occasionally shot monster rogues
in the latter country, equal to anything that I have seen in Africa.

The English forces in India were not slow in discovering the practical
aid to be derived from this enormous beast. Its vast strength, its un-
common intelligence, its spirit of obedience, its ability to swim the deep-
est rivers and push through the thickest jungles, rendered it available for
service where no other animal would have answered the purpose.

Frequently, in India, guns have been transported on the backs, of ele-^
phants, and have thus been carried where no gun-carriage could have
made its way on account of the obstructions to travel. The cannon is
strapped on the back of the huge beast, and might even be fired from
that high perch, except for the difficulty the gunner finds in taking sure
aim.

The JEIzplorers at Obho.

It became dangerous for Baker to remain longer in the country, in
consequence of the abominable conduct of the Turks in his party, which
so irritated the natives that an attack from them was daily expected.
They were therefore compelled to return to Obbo, the chief of which, old

,■^■1*

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

469

Katchiba, had before received them in a friendly manner. Here, in con-
sequence of their exposure to wet, Mr. and Mrs. Baker were attacked
with fever. By this time all their baggage animals as well as their horses
had died.

Katchiba laid claim to intercourse with the unseen world, and to
authority over the elements ; rain and drought, calm and tempest, being
supposed by his subjects to be equally under his command. Sometimes,
if the country had been afflicted with drought beyond the usual time of
rain, Katchiba would assemble his people, and deliver a long harangue,
inveighing against their evil doings, which had kept off the rain. These
evil doings, on being analyzed, generally proved to be little more than a
want of liberality toward himself. He explained to them that he sin-
cerely regretted their conduct, which " has compelled him to afflict them
with unfavorable weatiier, but that it is their own fault. If they are so
greedy and so stingy that they will not supply him properly, how can
they expect him to think of their interests ? No goats, no rain ; that's
our contract, my friends," says Katchiba. " Do as you like: /can wait;
I hope you can." Should his people complain of too much rain, he
threatens to pour storms and lightning upon them forever, unless they
bring him so many baskets of corn. Thus he holds his sway.

Crafty Old Chief.

No man would thmk of starting on a journey without the blessing of
the old chief, and a peculiar " hocus-pocus " is considered necessary from
the magic hands of Katchiba, that shall charm the traveller, and preserve
him from all danger of wild animals upon the road. In case of sickness
he is called in, not as M. D. in our acceptation, but as Doctor of Magic,
and he charms both the hut and patient against death, with the fluctuat-
ing results that must attend professionals, even in sorcery. His subjects
have the most thorough confidence in his power; and so great is his
reputation, that distant tribes frequently consult him, and beg his assist-
ance as a magician. In this manner does old Katchiba hold his sway
over his savage but credulous people ; and so long has he imposed upon
the public, that I believe he has at length imposed upon himself, and that
he really believes that he has the power of sorcery, notwithstanding
repeated failures.

Once, while Baker was in the country, Katchiba, like other rain-
makers, fell into a dilemma. There had been no rain for a long time,
and the people had become so angry at the continued drought, that they
assembled round his house, blowing horns, and shouting execrations
against their chief, because he had not sent them a shower which would

m '■'

%'.<%

470

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

allow them to sow their seed. True to his policy, the crafty old man
made light of their threats, telling them that they might kill him if they
liked, but that, if they did so, no more rain would ever fall. Rain in the
jcountry was the necessary result of goats and provisions given to the
chief, and, as soon as he got the proper fees, the rain should come. The
("est of the story is so good, that it must be to'd in the author's own
words.

** With all this bluster," says Baker, " I saw that old Katchiba was in
a great dilemma, and that he would give anything for a shower, but that
he did not know how to get out of the scrape. It was a common freak
of the tribes to sacrifice their rain-maker, should he be unsuccessful. He
suddenly altered his tone, and asked, * Have you any rain in your coun-
try ? ' I replied that we had every now and then. ' How do you bring
it? Are >ou a rain-maker ? ' I told him that no one believed in rain-
makers in our country, but that we knew how to bottle lightning (mean-
ing electricity). ' I don't keep mine in bottles, but I have a house full of
thunder and lightning,* he most coolly replied ; ' but if you can bottle
lightning, you must understand rain-making. What do you think of the

weather to-day ? '

Trouble to Get Kain.

" I immediately saw the drift of the cunning old Katchiba ; he wanted
professional advice. I replied that he must know all about it, as he was
a regular rain-maker. ' Of course I do,' he answered ; * but I want to
know what you think of it' ' Well,' I said, ' I don't think we shall have
any .steady rain, but I think we may have a heavy dhower in about four
days' (I said this, as I had observed fleecy clouds gathering daily in the
afternoon). ' Just my opinion,' said Katchiba, delighted. ' In four, or
perhaps in five, days I intend to give them one shower — just one shower;
yes, I'll just step down to them, and tell the rascals that if they will give
me some goats by this evening, and some corn by to-morrow morning, I
will give them in four or five days just one shower.'

" To give effect to his declaration, he gave several toots on his magic
whistle. ' Do you use whistles in your country ? * inquired Katchiba. I
only replied by giving so shrill and deafening a whistle on my fingers,
that Katchiba stopped his ears, and, relapsing into a smile of admiration,
he took a glance at the sky from the doorway, to see if any effect had
been produced, * Whistle again,' he said ; and once more I performed
like the whistle of a locomotive. ' That will do ; we shall have it,' said
the cunning old rain-maker ; and, proud of havin^ so knowingly obtained
'counsel's opinion' in his case, he toddled off to his impatient subjects.

■J

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

471

In a few days a sudden storm of rain and violent thunder added to
Katchiba's renown, and after the shower horns were blowing and nogaras
beating in honor of their chief Between ourselves, my whistle was
considered infallible."

When his guests were lying ill in their huts, struck down with the
fever which is prevalent in hot and moist climates such as that of Obbo,
Katchiba came to visit them in his character of magician, and performed
a curious ceremony. He took a small leafy branch, filled his mouth
with water, and squirted it on the branch, which was then waved about
the hut, and lastly stuck over the door. He assured his sick guests that
their recovery was now certain ; and, as they did recover, his opinion of
his magicalpowers was doubtless confirmed.

After their recovery they paid a visit to the chief, by his special desire,
and were entertained in princely style.

Spirited Dance of Obbos.

Among other things the natives held a great consultation, and ended
with a war-dance ; they were all painted in various patterns, with red
ochre and white pipe-clay ; their heads adorned with very tasteful orna-
ments of cowrie-shells, surmounted by plumes of ostrich feathers, which
drooped over the back of the neck. After the dance, the old chief
addressed them in a long and vehement speech ; he was followed by
several other speakers, all of whom were remarkably fluent, and
expressed their exceeding gratification on account of the visit of the
curious foreigners.

Mr. Baker purchased from the Turks some good riding oxen for him-
self and his wife, and, having placed his goods under the care of old
Katchiba and two of his own men, he set out in January, 1864, with a
small number of attendants, to proceed to Karuma, the northern end of
Kamrasi's territory, which Speke and Grant had visited.

The Shooa country, through which he passed, is very beautiful, con-
sisting of mountains covered with fine forests trees, and picturesquely
dotted over with villages. Several portions presented the appearance of
a park watered by numerous rivulets and ornamented with fine timber
while it was interspersed with rocks of granite, which at a distance locked
like ruined castles. Here they found an abundance of food: fowls,
butter, and goats were brought for sale.

They had obtained the services of a slave woman called Bacheeta,
belonging to Unyoro, and who, having learned Arabic, was likely to
prove useful as an interpreter and guide. She, however, had no desire
to return to her own country, and endeavored to mislead them, by taking

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1472)

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

473

them to the country of Rionj^a, an enemy of Kamrasi. Fortunately,
Mr. Baker detected her treachery, and he and his Turkish allies reached
the Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada.

A number of Kamrasi's people soon crossed the river to within parley-
in>T distance, when Bacheeta, as directed, explained that Spcke's brother
had arrived to pay Kamrasi a visit, and had brought him valuable
presents. Kamrasi's people, however, showed considerable suspicion on
.seeing so many people, till Baker appeared dressed in a suit similar to
that worn by Speke, when they at once exhibited their welcome, by
dancing and gesticulating with their lances and shields in the most ex-
travagant manner. The party, however, were not allowed to cross till
permission was obtained from Kamrasi.

Trying to Trade Wives.

That very cautious and cowardly monarch sent his brother, who pre-
tended to be Kamrasi himself, and for some time Baker was deceived,
fully believing that he was negotiating with the king. Notwithstanding
his regal pretensions, he very nearly got knocked down, on proposing that
he and his guest should exchange wives, and even Bacheeta, understand-
ing the insult which had been offered, fiercely abused the supposed king.

Baker's Obbo porters had before this deserted him, and he was now
dependent on Kamrasi for others to supply their places. The king,
however, ultimately became more friendly, and gave orders to his people
to assist the stranger, granting him also permission to proceed westward
to the lake he was so anxious to visit.

A few women having been supplied to carry Ins luggage, he and his
wife, with their small party of attendants, at length set out.

Says Baker : The country was a vast flat of grass land interspersed
with small villages and patches of sweet potatoes ; these were very in-
ferior, owing to the want of drainage. For about two miles we continued
on the bank of the Kafoor river ; the women who carried the luggage
were straggling in disorder, and my fevV men were much scattered in
their endeavors to collect them. We approached a considerable village ;
but just as we were nearing it, out rushed about six hundred men with
lances and shields, screaming and yelling like so many demons. For the
moment, I thought it was an attack, but almost immediately I noticed
that women and children were mingled with the men. My men had not
taken so cool a view of the excited throng that was now approaching us
at full speed, brandishing their spears, and engaging with each other in
mock combat. " There's a fight ! there's a fight ! " my men exclaimed ;
*' we are attacked I fire at them, Hawaga."

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474

WONDERS^ OF THE TROPICS.

However, in a few seconds, I persuaded them that it was a mere parade
and that there was no danger. With a rush, like a cloud of locusts, the na-

»■■

tives closed around us, dancing, gesticulating, and yelling before us,
feinting to attack us with spears and shields, then engaging in sham fights
with each other, and behaving like so many madmen. A very tall chief

;i|i!|

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

475

accompanied them ; and one of their men was suddenly knocked down,
and attacked by the crowd with sticks and lances, and lay on the ground
covered with blood : what his oifTence had been I did not hear. The en-
tire crowd were most grotesquely got up, being dressed in either leopard
or white monkey skins, with cows' tails strapped on behind, and ante-
lopes' horns fitted upon some of their heads, and carrying large shields
and savage-looking spears.

Altogether, I nevfer saw a more unearthly set of creatures ; they were
perfect illustrations of my childish ideas of devils — horns, tails, and all,
excepting the hoofs ; they were our escort ! furnished by Kamrasi to ac-
company us to the lake. Fortunately for all parties the Turks were not
with us on that occasion, or the satanic escort would certainly have been
received with a volley when they so rashly advanced to compliment us b"
their absurd performances.

We marched till 7 p.m. over flat, uninteresting country, and then halted
at a miserable village which the people had deserted, as they expected our
arrival. The following morning I found much difficulty in getting our
escort together, as they had been foraging throughout the neighborhood ;
these " devil's own " were a portion of Kamrasi's troops, who considered
themselves entitled to plunder ad libitum throughout the march ; how-
ever, after some delay, they collected, and their tall chief approached me,
and begged that a gun might be fired as a curiosity. The escort had
crowded around us, and as the boy Saat was close to me, I ordered him
to fire his gun. This was Saat's greatest delight, and bang went one bar-
rel unexpectedly close to the tall chiefs ear. The effect was charming^
The tall chief, thinking himself injured, clasped his head with both hands,
and bolted through the crowd, which, struck with a sudden panic, rushed
away in all directions, the " devil's own " tumbling over each other, and
utterly scattered by the second barrel which Saat exultingly fired in
derision as Kamrasi's warlike regiment dissolved before a sound.

Serious Illness of Mrs. Baker.

Mr. Baker, however, soon got rid of his satanic escort. Poor Mrs.
Baker was naturally alarmed, fearing that it was the intention of the king
to waylay them and perhaps carry her off.

Soon after this, while crossing the Kafue river, the heat being exces-
sive, what was Mr. Baker's horror to see his wife sink from her ox as
though shot dead. He, with his attendants, carried her through the
yielding vegetation, up to their waists in water, above which they could
just keep her head, till they reached the banks. He then laid her under
a tree, and now discovered that she had received a sunstroke. As there

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(47C)

IN A WILD COUNTRY.

477

was nothing to eat on the spot, it was absolutely necessary to move on.
A litter was procured, on which Mrs. Baker was carried, her husband
mechanically following by its side. For seven days continuously he thu3
proceeded on his journey. Her eyes at length opened, but, to his
infinite grief, he found that she was attacked by brain fever.

One evening they reached a village. She was in violent convulsions.
He believed all was over, and, while he sank down insensible by her
side, his men went out to seek for a spot to dig her grave. On awaken
ing, all hope having abandoned him, as he gazed at her countenance hei
chest gently heaved; she was asleep. When at a sudden noise she
opened her eyes, they were calm and clear ; she was saved.

Having rested for a couple of days, they continued their course, Mrs.
Baker being carried on her litter. At length they reached the village of
Parkani. To his joy, as he gazed at some lofty mountains, he was told
that they formed the western side of the Luta Nzige, and that the lake
was actually within a march of the village. Their guide announced that
if they started early in the morning, they might wash in the lake by
noon. That night Baker hardly slept.

Beautiful I/andscape.

The following morning, the 14th of March, starting before sunrise, on
ox-back, he and his wife, wi^h their attendants, following his guide, in a
few hours reached a hill from the summit of which " he beheld beneath
him a grand expanse of water, a boundless sea horizon on the south and
southwest, glittering in the noonday sun, while on the v/est, at fifty-or
sixty miles distant, blue mountains rose from the bosom of the lake to a
height of about seven thousand feet above its level."

Hence they descended on foot, supported by stout bamboos, for two
hours, to the white pebbly beach on which the waves of the lake were
rolling. Baker, in the enthusiasm of the moment, rushed into the lake,
and, thristy with heat and fatigue, with 'a. heart full of gratitude, drank
deeply from what he supposed to be one of the sources of the Nile, not
dreaming of the wonderful discoveries Livingstone was making at that
very time many degrees to the southward. He now bestowed upon this
lake the name of the Albert Nyanza.

The dwellers on the borders of the lake are expert fishermen, and in one
of their villages, named Vakovia, the travellers now established themselves.

His followers, two of whom had seen the sea at Alexandria, and who
believed that they should never reach the lake, were astonished at its
appearance, unhesitatingly declaring that though it was not salt, it must
be the sea.

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478

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Salt, however, is the chief product of the country, numerous salt-pits
existing in the neighborhood, and in its manufacture the inhabitants are
chiefly employed. Vakovia is a miserable place, and, in consequence of
its damp and hot position, the whole party suffered from fever.

Travelliug- in Canoes.

Here they were detained eight days waiting for canoes, which Kamrasi
had ordered his people to supply. At length several were brought,
but they were merely hollowed-out trunks of trees, the largest beiii"
thirty-two feet long. Baker selected another, twenty-six feet long, but
wider and deeper, for himself and his wife and their personal attendants
while the luggage and the remainder of the people embarked in the
former. He raised the sides of the canoe, and fitted up a cabin for his
wife, which was both rain and sun-proof

Having purchased some provisions, he started on a voyage to survey
the lake. Vakovia is about a third of the way from the northern end of
the lake. His time would not allow him to proceed further south. He
directed his course northward, towards the part out of which the Nile
was supposed to flow.

The difficulties of the journey were not yet over. The first day's voy-
age was delightful, the lake calm, the scenery lovely. At times the
mountains on the west coast were not discernible, and the lake appeared
of indefinite width. Sometimes they passed directly under precipitous
cliffs of fifteen hundred feet in height, rising abruptly out of the water,
while from the deep clefts in the rocks evergreens of every tint appeared,
and wherever a rivulet burst forth it was shaded by the graceful and
feathery wild date. Numbers of hippopotami were sporting in the
water, and crocodiles were numerous on every sandy beach.

Storm on the Lake.

Next night, however, the boatmen deserted, but, not to be defeated,
Baker induced his own people to take to the paddles. He fitted a paddle
to his own boat, to act as a rudder, but the men in the larger boat
neglected to do as he directed them.

A tremendous storm of rain came down while he was at work. His
own canoe, however, being ready, he started. He was about to cross
from one headland to another, when he saw the larger canoe spinning
round and round, the crew having no notion of guiding her. Fortu-
nately, it was calm, and, on reaching the shore, he induced several natives
to serve as his crew, while others went off in their own boats to assist
the large canoe.

He now commenced crossing a deep bay, fully four miles wide. He

M^^^ '

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TOLis salt-pits
habitants are
nsequence of
er,

lich Kamrasi
ere brought,
argest being
feet Jong, but
i\ attendants,
arkcd in the
cabin for his

ge to survey
thern end of
' south. He
ich the Nile

st day's voy-
U times the
ke appeared

precipitous
the water,
nt appeared,

raceful and
ting in the

)e defeated,
ed a paddle
arger boat

iVork. His
it to cross
le spinning

r. Fortu-
sral natives

s to assist

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wide. He

(479^

480

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS:

had gained the centre when a tremendous storm came on, and enormous
waves rolled in over the lake. The canoe labored heavily and occasion-
ally shipped water, which was quickly bailed out. Had this not been
done, the canoe would mevitably have been swamped. Down came the
rain in torrents, while the wind swept over the surface with terrific force,
nothing being discernible except the high cliffs looming in the distance.
The boatmen paddled energetically, and at last a beach was seen ahead.
A wave struck the canoe washing over her. Just then the men jumped
out, and though they were rolled over, they succeeded in hauling the

boat up the beach.

Delays aud Difficulties.

The shore of the lake, as they paddled along it, was thinly inhabited,
and the people very inhospitable, till they reached the town of Eppigoya.*
Even here the inhabitants refused to sell any of their goats, though they
willingly parted with fowls at a small price. At each village the voy-
agers changed their boatmen, none being willing to go beyond the
village next them. This was provoking, as delays constantly occurred.

Such delays, however, are incident to all travelling in Africa. One of
the great advantages of old countries is that there are means of transpor-
tation which never fail. Possibly once in a great while the traveller is
detained by floods, by washouts, by railway accidents, or from some
other cause, yet considering the number of railways and the multitudes
of people who journey from one place to another, it is surprising that
there are so few delays and accidents. This, however, does not apply to
Africa. There a journey of ten or fifteen miles a day for a caravan is
considered very good progress, and we have already seen that some of
the explorers were detained in various localities for weeks, months, and,
in one or two instances, for even years. Mr. and Mrs. Baker bore their
hindrances with becoming fortitude and downright Anglo-Saxon pluck.

CHAPTER XXII.
THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

•3.^

^ Wilderness of Vegetation— Hearty Welcome From a Chief and Na.tives— " Blin^i
Leading the Blind" — Voyage Up the Victoria Nile— Severe Attack of Fever-
Sufferings of Lady Baker -A Remarkable River— End of Canoe Voyage - Begin-
ning of a Toilsome March — Rumors Concerning a Great Waterfall — Thunder of
the Cataract — Rocky Cliffs and Precipitous Banks — Magnificent View — Splendid
Fall of Snow white Water — Murchison Falls — The Niagara of the Tropics — Hip-
popotaoius Charges the Canoe— Startling Shock — Scrawny Travelling Beasts-
Curious Refreshments — Arrival at a Chief's Island— Crossing Ravines and Tor-
rents—Sickness on the March — TakingSheltef in a Wretched Hut — On the Verge
of Starvation — Baker Arrayed in Highland Costume — Stirring Events — Meeting
Between a Slave and Her Former Mistress — Adventurous Journey — Pushing on
for Shooa— Hunting Game for Dinner — Travellers Hungry as Wolves — Frolic-
some Reception of the Explorers— March Through the Bari Country — Arrows
Whizzing Overhead — Savage Fatally Wounded— Night in a Hostile Country-
Lively Skirmish with the Natives —Arrival at Gondokoro— Excitement and
Hurrahs — Terrible Ravages of the Plague— An Arab Gets His Deserts— Sir
Samuel and Lady Baker Arrive at Cairo — Baker Receives the Award of the
Victoria Gold Medal — The Hero Again in Africa.

QT length the explorers reached Magungo, situated inside an
immense bed of reeds, at the top of a hill, above the mouth of a
large river. Passing up a channel amidst a perfect wilderness of
vegetation, they reached the shore below the town. Here they
were met by their guide, who had brought their riding oxen from Vako-
via, and reported them all well.

The chief of Magungo and a large number of natives were also on the
shore waiting for them, and brought them down a plentiful supply of
goats, fowls, eggs, and fresh butter. Proceeding on foot to the height on
which Magungo stands, they thence enjoyed a magnificent view, not only
over the lake, but to the north, towards the point where its waters flow
into the Nile.

Baker's great desire was to descend the Nile in canoes, from its exit
,Vom the lake to the cataracts in the Madi country, and thence to march
direct, with only guns and ammunition, to Gondokoro. This plan he
found impossible to carry out. —

We will let Baker continue the thrilling narrative in his own words :
The boats being ready, we took leave of the chief, leaving him an
Rccepttble present of beads, and we descended the hill to the river, thank-

81 (481)

482

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

r- t

', ■■ill til 'I . '*

^Mi:;'-t

ful at having so far successfully terminated the expedition as to have
traced the lake to that important point, Magunj^o, which had been our
clue to the discovery even so far away in time and place as tl)e
distant country of Latooka. We were both very weak and ill, and niy
knees trembled beneath me as I walked down the easy descent. I, in
my enervated state, endeavoring to assist my wife, we were the " blind
leading the blind;" but had life closed on that day we could have died
most happily, for the hard fight through sickness and misery had ended
in victory • and, although I looked to home as a paradise never to be
regained, I could have laia down to sleep in contentment on this spot,
with the consolation that, if the body had been vanquished, we died with
the prize in our grasp.

Voyage Up the Victoria Nile.

On arrival at the canoes v(^e found everything in readiness, and the
boatmen already in their places. A crowd of natives pushed us over the
shallows, and once in deep water we passed through a broad canal which
led us into the open channel without the labor of towing through the
narrow inlet by which we had arrived. Once in the broad channel of
dead water we steered due east, and made rapid way until the evening.
The river as it now appeared, although devoid of current, was an average
of about 500 yards in width.

Before we halted for the night I was subjected to a most severe attack
of fever, and upon the boat reaching a certain spot I was carried on a
litter, perfectly unconscious, to a village, attended carefully by my poor
sick wife, who, herself half dead, followed me on foot through the
marshes in pitch darkness, and watched over me until the morning. At
daybreak I was too weak to stand, and we were both carried down to
the canoes, and, crawling helplessly within our grassawning, welay down
like logs while the canoes continued their voyage. Many of our men
were also suffering from fever. The malaiia of the dense masses of float-
ing vegetation was most poisonous ; and, upon looking back to the
canoe that followed our wake, I observed all my men sitting crouched
together sick and dispirited, looking like departed spirits being ferried
across the melancholy Styx.

The river now contracted rapidly to about two hundred and fifty yards
in width about ten miles from Magungo. We had left the vast flats cf
rush banks, and entered a channel between high ground, forming steep
forest-covered hiiis, about 200 feet on either side, north and south : never-
theless there was no perceptible stream, although there was no doubt
that we were actuall}^ in the channel of a river. The water was clear and

iness, and the
^d us over the
d canal which
I through the
id channel of
1 the evening.
'as an average

being ferried

d fifty yards
vast flats cf
rming steej:
>uth: never-
as no doubt
as clear and

MURCHISON FALLS — THE NIAGAKA OF AFRICA.

(483)

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484

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

exceedingly deep. In the evening we halted, and .slept on a mud bank
clcse to the water. The grass in the forest was very high and rank : thus
we were glad to find an open space for a bivouac, although a nest of
mosquitoes and maLiria.

Off iu the Early Moriiliij?.

On waking the next morning, I ob-served that a thick fog covered the
surface of the river; and as I lay upon my back, I amused myself before
I woke my men by watching the fog slowly lifting from the river. While
thus employed I was struck by the fact, that the little green water-plants
like floating cabbages, were certainly, although very slowly, moving to
the west. I immediately jumped up and watched them most attentively;
there was no doubt about it ; they were travelling towards the Albert
Lake. We were now about eighteen miles in a direct line from Magun-
go, and there was a current in the river, which, however slight, was never-
theless perceptible.

Our toilette did not take long to arrange, as we had thrown ourselves
down at night with our clothes on ; accordingly we entered the canoe at
once, and gave the order to start.

The woman Bacheeta knew the country, as she had formerly been to
Magungo when in the service of Sali, who had been subsequently mur-
dered by Kamrasi ; she now informed me that we should terminate our
canoe voyage on that day, as we should arrive at the great waterfall of
which she had often spoken. As we proceeded, the river gradually nar-
rowed to about 1 80 yards, and when the paddles ceased working we
could d itinctly hear the roar of water. I had heard this on waking in
the morning, but at the time I had imagined it to proceed from distant
thunder.

Thunder of the Cataract.

By ten o'clock the current had so increased as we proceeded, that it
was distinctly perceptible, although weak. The roar of the waterfall was
extremely loud, and after sharp pulling for a couple of hours, during
which time the stream increased, we arrived at a few deserted fishing-
huts, at a point where the river made a slight turn, I never saw such an
extraordinary show of crocodiles as were exposed on every sandbank on
the sides of the river; they lay like logs of timber close together, and
upon one bank we counted twenty- seven, of large size; every basking
place was crowded in a similar manner. From the time we had fairly
entered the river, it had been confined by heights somewhat precipitous
on either side, rising to about 180 feet. At this point the cliffs were
still higher, and exceedingly abrupt. From the -oar of the water, I was

;!;. .

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

485

li:

sure that the fall would be in sight if we turned the corner at the bend of
tlie river ; accordingly I ordered the boatmen to row as far as they could:
to this they at first objected, as they wished to stop at the deserted fish-
ing village, which they explained was to be the limit of the journey, fur-
ther progress being impossible.

A Mn^iriiiflcetit View.

However, I explained that I merely wished to see the fall, and they
rowed immediately up the stream, which was now strong against us.
Upon rounding the corner, a magnificent sight burst suddenly upon us.
On either side of the river were beautifully wooded cliffs rising abruptly
to a height of about 300 feet; rocks were jutting out from the intensely
i;reen foliage: and rushing through a gap that cleft the rock exactly be-
fore us, the river, contracted from a grand stream, was pent up in a nar-
row gorge of scarcely fifty yards in width ; roaring furiously through the
rock-bound pass, it plunged in one leap of about 120 feet perpendicular
into a dark abyss below.

The fall of water was snow-white, which had a superb effect as it con-
trasted with the dark cliffs that walled the river, while the graceful
palms of the Tropics and wild plantains perfected the beauty of the view.
This was the greatest waterfall of the Nile, and, in honor of the distin-
jTuished President of the Royal Geographical Society, I named it the
Murchison Falls, as the most important object throughout the entire
course of the river.

The boatmen, having been promised a present of beads to induce them
to approach the fall as close as possible, succeeded in bringing the canoe
within about 300 yards of the base, but the power of the current and the
whirpools in the river rendered it impossible to proceed farther. There
was a sand-bank on our left which was literally covered with crocodiles
lying parallel to each other like trunks of trees prepared for shipment ;
they had no fear of the canoe until we approached within about twenty
yards of them, when they slowly crept into the water; all excepting one,
an immense fellow who lazily lagged behind, and immediately dropped
dead as a bullet struck him in the brain,

Startliu^ir Shock.

So alarmed were the boatmen at the unexpected report of the rifle that
they immediately dropped into the body of the canoe, one of them losing
his paddlq^ Nothkig would induce them to attend to the boat, as I had
fired a secslhd shot at the crocodile as a " quietus," and the natives did
not know how often the alarming noise would be repeated. Accordingly
we were at the mercy of the powerful stream, and the canoe was whisked

480

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

round by the eddy ; hardly had we realized our peril when a tremendous
commotion took place, and in an instant a great bull hippopotamus
clvarged the canoe, and with a severe shock striking the bottom he lifted
us half out of the water. The natives in the party positively yelled with
*error, not knowing whether the shock was in any way connected with
ihe dreaded report of the rifle ; the black women screamed ; and we
began to make use of our rifles.

The hippopotamus, proud of having disturbed us, but doubtless think*
ing us rather hard of texture, raised his head to take a last view of his
enemy, and then sank rapidly. Hippopotamus heads of enormous size

FEROCIOUS ATTACK BY A HIPPOPOTAMUS.

were on all sides, appearing and vanishing rapidly as they rose to survey
us ; at one time we counted eighteen upon the surface. Having recovered
the lost paddle, I prevailed upon the boatmen to keep the canoe steady
while I made a sketch of the Murchison Falls, which being completed,
we drifted rapidly down to the landing-place at the deserted fishing-village^
and bade adieu to the navigation of the lake and river of Central Africa.
The few huts that existed in this spot were mere ruins. Qouds had
portended rain, and down it came, as it usually did once in eVCTy twenty-
four hours. However, that passed away by the next morning, and the
fiUy broke, discovering us about as wet and wretched as w** were accus-

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

487

tomed to be. I now started off four of my men with the boatmen and
the interpreter Bacheeta to the nearest village, to inquire whether our
guide, Kabonga, had arrived with our riding oxen, as our future travel-
ling was to be on land, and the limit of our navigation must have been
•well known to him. After some hours the people returned, minus the
boatmen, with a message from the head-man of a village they had visited,
that the oxen were there, but not the guide Rabonga, who had remained
at Magungo, but that the animals should be brought to us that evening,
together with porters to convey the luggage.

In the evening a number of people arrived, bringing some plantain
cider and plantains as a present from the head-man ; and promising that,
upon the following morning, we should be conducted to his village.

The next day we started, but not until the afternoon, as we had to
await the arrival of the head-man, who was to escort us. Our oxen were
brought, and if we looked wretched, the anamals were a match. They
had been bitten by the fly, thousands of which were at this spot. Their
coats were staring, ears drooping, noses running, and heads hanging
down ; all the symptoms of fly-bite, together with extreme looseness of
the bowels. I saw that it was all up with our animals.

Weak as I was myself, I was obliged to walk, as my ox coidd not carry
me up the steep inclination, and I toiled languidly to the summit of the
cliff. It poured with rain. Upon arrival at the summit we were in pre*
cisely the same park-like land that characterizes Chopi and Unyoro, but
the grass was about seven feet high ; and from the constant rain, and the
extreme fertility of the soil, the country was choked with vegetation.

Arrival at a Chiers Island.

We were now above the Murchison Falls, and we heard the roaring of
the water beneath us to our left. We continued our route parallel to the
river above the Falls, stearing east ; and a little before evening we arrived
at a small village belonging to the head-man who accompanied us. I was
chilled and wet ; my wife had fortunately been carried in her litter, which
was protected by a hide roofing. Feverish and exhausted, I procured
from the natives some good acid plums, and refreshed by these I was
able to boil my thermometer and take the altitude.

On the following morning we started, the route, as before, parallel to
•the riven, and so close that the roar of the rapids was extremely loud.
The river flowed in a deep ravine upon our left. We continued for a
day's march along the Somerset, crossing many ravines and torrents,
until we turned suddenly down to the left, and arriving at the bank, we
were to be transported to an island called Patooan^ that was the residence

M ?

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■ ^ ill'L

488

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

of a chief. It was about an hour after sunset, and being dark, my riding
ox, who was being driven as too weak to carry me, fell into an elephant
pitfall. After much hallooing, a canoe was brought from the island,
which was not more th.m fifty yards from the mainland, and we were
ferried across. We were both very ill with a sudden attack of fever ;
and my wife, not being able to stand, was, on arrival on the island, car-
ried in a litter I knew not whither, escorted by some of my men, while I
lay down on the wet ground quite exhausted with tHe annihilating dis-
ease. At length the remainder of my men crossed over, and those who
had carried my wife to the village returning with firebrands, I managed to
creep after them with the aid of a long stick, upon which I rested with
both hands.

lu a Wretched Hut for Shelter.

After a walk, through a forest of high trees, for about a quarter of j
mile, I arrived at a village where I was .shown a wretched hut, the stars
being visible through the roof. In this my wife lay dreadfully ill, and I
fell down upon some straw. About an hour later, a violent thunderstorm
broke over us, and our hut was perfectly flooded , we, being far too ill
and helpless to move from our positions, remained dripping wet and shiv-
ering with<rfever until the morning. Our .servants and people had.iike
all natives, made themselves much more comfortable than their employ-
ers ; nor did they attempt to interfere with our misery in any way until
summoned to appear at sunrise.

The '"^regoing is Baker's narrative. Within a few days the boats in
which they had hoped to return down the Nile would leave Gondokoro.
It was, therefore, of the greatest importance that they should set out at
once, and take a direct route through the Shooa country.

The natives, not to be tempted even by bribes, positively refused to
carry them. Their own men were also ill, and there was a great scarcity
of provisions. War, indeed, was going on in the country to the east,
Patooan being in the hands of Kamrasi's enemies. It was on this
account that no Unyoro porters could be found.

On the Verge of Starvation.

They might have starved had not an underground granary of seed
been discovered, by the means of Bacheeta, in one of the villages burned
down by the enemy. This, with several varieties of wild plants, enabled
them to support existence. The last of their oxen, after lingering for
some time, lay down to die, affording the men a supply of beef, and Saati
and Bacheeta occasiot^ally obtained a fowl from one of the neighboring
islands, which they visited in a canoe.

' m

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

4fe9

At length both Mr. and Mrs. Baker fully believed that their last hour
was come, and he wrote various instructions in his journal, directing his
head-man to deliver his maps and observations to the British Consul at
Khartoum.

The object, it appeared, of Kamrasi in thus leaving them, was tc
obtain their assistance against his enemies, and at length their guide,
Rehonga, made his appearance, having been ordered to carry them to
Kamrasi's camp. The journey was performed, in spite of their weak
state ; and on their arrival they found ten of the Turks left as hc-'^ages
with Kamrasi by Ibrahim, who had returned to Gondokoro. The Turks
received them with respect and manifestations of delight and wonder at
their having performed so difficult a journey. A hut was built for their
reception, and an ox, killed by the Turks, was prepared as a feast for their
people.

The next day the king announced his readiness to receive the traveller,

who, attiring himself in a Highland costume, was carried on the shoulders

of a number of men into the presence of the monarch. The king

informed him that he had made arrangements for his remaining at

Kisoona.

Stirring^ Events.

As now all hope of reaching Gondokoro in time for the boats had
gone, Mr. Baker, yielding to necessity, prepared to make himself at
home. He had a comfortable hut built, surrounded by a court-yard
with an open shed in which he and his wife could spend the hot hours
of the day. Kamrasi sent him a cow which gave an abundance of milk,
also amply supplying him with food.

Here the travellers were compelled to spend many months. Their
stay was cut short, in consequence of the invasion of the country by
Fowooka's people, accompanied by a large band of Turks under the
trader Debono. Kamrasi proposed at once taking to flight ; but Baker
promised to hoist the flag of England, and to place the country under
British protection. He then sent a message to Mahomet, Debono's
guide, warning him that should a shot be fired by any of his people, he
would be hung, and ordering them at once to quit the country; inform-
ing them, besides, that he had already promised ,1' the ivory to Ibrahim,
so that, contrary to the rules of the traders, they were trespassing in the
territory.

This letter had its due effect. Mahomet deserted his allies, who were
immediately attacked by Kamrasi's troops, and cut to pieces, while the
women and children were brought away as captives. Among thern,

' S/'/

490

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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3- :^'^ ■

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11'!

Becheets., who had once been a slave in the country, recog^nized her
former mistress, who had been captured with the wives and daughters of
their chief, Rionga.

After this Ibrahim returned, bringing a variety of presents for Kam-
rasi, which, in addition to the defeat of his enemies, put him in excellent
humor. Mr. Baker was able to save the life of an old chief, Kalloe, who
had been captured ; but some days afterwards the treacherous Kamrasi
shot him with his own hand. ) . • .

Adventurous March. ^

At length the Turkish traders, having collected a large supply of
ivory, were ready to return to Shooa ; and Mr. Baker, thankful to leave
the f^rritory of the brutal Kamrasi, took his leave, and commenced the
journey with his allies, who, including porters, women, and children
amounted to a thousand people.

At the break of day, says Baker, we started. It would be tedious to
describe the journey, as, although by a difTrent route, it was through the
same country that we had traversed before. After the first day's march
we quitted the forest and entered upon the great prairies. I was aston-
ished to find after several days' journey a great difference in the dryness
of the climate. In Unyoro we had left the grass an intense green, the
rain having been frequent : here it was nearly dry, and in many places it
had b^en burnt by the native huntmg parties. From some elevated
points in the route I could distinctly make out the outline of the moun-
tains running from the Albert Lake to the north, on the v/est bank of the
Nile ; these would hardly have been observed by a person who was
ignorant of their existence, as the grass was so high that I had to ascend
a white ant-hill to look for them ; they were about sixty miles dis-
tant, and my men, who knew them well, pointed them out to their
companions.

The entire party, including women and children, had to be provided
for daily. Although they had abundance of flour, there was no meat,
and the grass being high there was no chance of game. On the fourth
day only I saw a herd of about twenty tetel (hartebeest) in an open space
that had been recently burnt We were both riding upon oxen that I had
purchased of Ibrahim, and we were about a mile ahead of the flag in the
hope of getting a shot ; dismounting from my animal I stalked the game
down a ravine, but upon reaching the point that I had resolved upon for
the shot, I found the herd had moved their position to about 250 paces
from me.

They were all looking at me, as they had been disturbed by the oxen

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

491

and the boy Saat in the distance. Dinner aepended on the shot. There
was a leafless bush singed by the recent fire ; upon a branch of this I took
a rest, but just as I was 'going to fire they moved off — a clean miss ! —
whizz went the bullet over them, but so close to the ears of one that it
shook its head as though stung by a wasp, r'nd capered round and round ;
the others stood perfectly still, gazing at the oxen in the distance.
w •, — - ■;, , Hungry as 'Wolves. >

Crack went the left-hand barrel of the little rifle, and down ;ent a tetel
like a lump of lead, before the satisfactory sound of the bullet re^.urned
from the distance. Off v/ent the herd, leaving a fine beast kicking on the
ground. It was shot through ti\e spine, and some of the native porters
having witnessed the sport from a great distance, threw down their loads
and came racing towards the meat like a pack of wolves scenting blood.
In a few minutes the prize was divided, while a good portion was carried
by Saat for our own* use : the tetel, weighing about 500 lbs. vanished
among the crov. i in a few minutes.

On the fifth day's march from the Victoria Nile we arrived at Shooa ;
the change wa^ delightful after the wet and dense vegetation of Unyoro ;
the country was dry, and the grass low and of fine quality. We took
possession of our camp, that had already been prepared for us in a large
court-yard well cemented with manure and clay, and fenced with a
strong row of palisades. A large tree grew in the centre. Several huts
were erected for interpreters and servants, and a tolerably commodious
hut, the roof overgiown with pumpkins, was arranged for our mansion.

That evening the native women crowded to our camp to welcome my
wife home, and to dance in honor of our '•eturn ; for which exhibition
they expected a present of a cow.

Much to my satisfaction I found that my first rate riding ox that had
been lamed during the previous year by falling into a pitfall, and had been
returned to Shooa, wAs perfectly recovered ; thus I had a good mount for
my journey to Gondokoro.

Some months were passed at Shooa, during which I occup'ed my time
by rambling about the neighborhood, ascending the mountain, making
duplicates of my maps, and gathering information, all of which was sim-
ply a corroboration of what I had heard before, excepting from the East.

Death in the Air.

As they were marching thence through the country inhabited by the
Bari tribe, they were attacked in a gorge by the natives. We continue
the interesting narrative in Baker's own words :

The level of the country being about 200 feet above the Nile, deep

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THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

493

gullies cut the route at right angles, forming the naftiral drains to the
river. In these ravines grew dense thickets of bamboos. Having no
native guide, but trusting solely to the traders' people, who had travelled
frequently by this route, we lost the path, and shortly became entangled
fa nongst the numerous ravines. ' ,

At length we passed a village, around which were assembled a num-
ber of nat'ves. Having regained the route, we observed the natives
appearing in various directions, and as quickly disappearing only to
gather in our front m increased numbers. Their movements exciting
suspicion, in a country where every man was an enemy, our party closed
together ; — we threw out an advance guard — ten men on either flank —
the porters, ammunition, and effects in the centre; while about ten men
brought up the rear. Befoie us lay two low rocky hills covered with
trees, high grass and brushwood, in which I distinctly observed the
bright red forms of natives painted according to the custom of the Bari
tribe.

We were evidently in for a fight. The path lay in a gorge between
the low rocky hills in advance. My wife dismounted from her ox, and
walked at the head of our party with me, Saat following behind wiiih the
gun that he usually carried, while the men drove several riding-oxen in
the centre.

Arrows Whizzing Overhead.

Hardly had we entered the pass, when— whizz went an arrow over our
heads. This was the signal for a repeated discharge. The natives ran
aniong the rocks with the agility of monkeys, and showed a consider-
able amount of daring in standing within about eighty yards upon the
ridge, and taking steady shots at us with their poisoned arrows. The
flanking parties now opened fire, and what with the bad shooting of both
the escort and the native archers, no one was wounded on either side for
the first ten minutes. The rattle of musketry and the wild appearance
of the naked vermilion -colored savages, as they leapt along the craggy
ridge, twanging their bows at us with evil but ineffectual intent, was a
cnarming picture of African life and manners.

Fortunately, the branches of numerous trqf s and intervening clumps
of bamboo frustrated the good intentions of the arrows, as they glanced
from their aim ; and although some fell among our party, we were as yet
unscathed. One of the enemy, who was probably a chief, distinguished
himself in particular, by advancing to within about fifty yards, and stand-
ing on a rock, he deliberately shot five or six arrows, all of which missed
their mark ; the men dodged them as they arrived in their uncertain

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494

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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flight; the speed*of the arrows was so inferior, owing to the stiflness of
the bows, that nothing was easier than to evade them. Any halt was
unnecessary. We continued our nrrch through the gorge, the men
keeping up an unremitting fire until we entered upon a tract of high
grass and forest ; this being perfectly dry, it would have been easy to set
it on fire, as the enemy were to leeward; but although the rustling in
the grass betokened the presence of a great number of men, they were
invisible.

A Savage Fatally Woiiiidcd.

In a few minutes we emerged in a clearing, where corn had been
planted; this was a favorable position for a decisive attack upon the
natives, who now closed up. Throwing out skirmishers, with orders
that they were to cover themselves behind the trunks of trees, the Baiis
were driven back. One was now shot through the body and fell ; but
recovering, he ran with his comrades, and fell dead after a few yards.

V/hat casualties had happened during the passage of the gorge, I
cannot say, but the enemy were now utterly discomfited. I had not
fired a shot, as the whole affair was perfect child's-play, and anyone who
could shoot would have settled the fortune of the day by half a dozen
shots ; but both the traders' people and my men were ** shooters, but not
hitters." We now bivouacked on the field for the night.

During the march on the following day, the natives watched us at a
distance, following in great numbers parallel with our route, but fearing
to attack. The country was perfectly open, being a succession of fine
downs of low grass, with few trees, where any attack against our guns
would have been madness.

In the evening we arrived at two small deserted villages ; these, like
most in the Bari country, were circular, and surrounded by a live and
impenetrable fence of euphorbia, having only one entrance. The traders'
people camped in one, while I took up my quarters in the other. The
sun had sunk, and the night being pitch dark, we had a glorious fire
around which we placed our couches opposite the narrow entrance of
the camp, about ten yards distant.

Surro^^uded by Hostile Natives.

I stationed Richarn as sentry outside the gateway, as he was the niosj
reliable of my men, and I thought it extremely probable that we might
be attacked during the night ; three other sentries I placed on guard ai
various stations. Dinner being concluded, Mrs. Baker lay down on her
couch for the night. I drew the balls from a doubled-barrelled smooth
bore rifle, and loaded with cartridge containing each twenty large mould

Lhe stifiness of
Any halt was
)rge, the men
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. I had not
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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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shot (about a hundred to the pound) ; putting this under my pillow I
went to sleep. Hardly had I begun to rest, when my men woke mc,
saying that the camp was surrounded by natives. Upon inquiry I fcnind
this to be correct : it was so dark that they could not be seen without
stooping to the ground, and looking along the surface. I ordered the
"^entries not to fire unless hostilities should commence on the side of the
natives, and in no case to draw trigger without a challenge.

Returning to the couch I laid down, and not wishing to sleep, I smoked
my long Unyoro pipe. In about ten minutes — bang ! went a shot,
quickly followed by another from the sentry at the entrance of the ca.np
Quietly rising from my bed, I found Richarn reloading at his post.
'* What is it, Richarn ? " I asked. " They are shooting arrows into the
camp, aiming at the fire, in hopes of hitting you who are sleeping there,"
said Richarn. " I watched one fellow," he continued, " as I heard the
twang of his bow four times. At each shot I heard an arrow strike the
ground between me and you, therefore I fired at him, and I think he is
down. Do you see that black object lying on the ground?" 1 saw
something a little blacker than the surrounding darkness, but it could
not be distinguished. Leaving Richarn with orders not to move from
his post, but to keep a good look-out until relieved by the next watch, I
again went to sleep.

Poisoned Arrows.

Before break of day, just as the grey dawn slightly improved the
darkness, I visited the sentry ; he was at his post, and reported that he
thought the archer of the preceding night was dead, as he had heard a
sound proceeding from the dark object on the ground after I had left.
In a few minutes it was sufficiently light to distinguish the body of a
man lying about thirty paces from the camp entrance. Upon examina-
tion, he proved to be a Bari ; — his bow was in his hand, and two or
three arrows were lying by his side ; — thirteen mould shot had struck
him dead ; — one had cut through the bow. We now searched the camp
for arrows, and as it became light, we picked up four in various places,
some within a few feet of our beds, and all horribly barbed and poisoned,
that the deceased had shot into the camp gateway.

This was the last attack during our journey. We marched well, gen-
erally accomplishing fifteen miles of latitude daily from this point, as the
road was good and well known to our guides. The countip^ was generally
poor, but beautifully diversified with large trees, the tamarind predomi-
nating. Passing through the small but thickly-populated and friendly
little province of Moir, in a few days we sighted the well-known moun-

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

497

ih'

tain Belignian, that we had formerly passed on its eastern side when we
had started on our uncertain path from Gondokoro upwards of two years
age. We had a .splendid view of the Ellyria Mountain, and of the dis-
tant cone, Honey Mountain, between Ellyria and Obbo.

All these curiously-shaped crags and peaks were well knows to us, and
AC welcomed them as old friends after a long absence ; they had been
our companions in times of doubt and anxiety, when success in our under-
taking appeared hopeless. At noon on the following day, as we were as
usual marching parallel with the Nile, the river, having made a slight
bend to the west, swept round, and approached within half a mile of our
path ; the small conical mountain, Regiaf, within twelve miles of Gondo-
koro, was on our left, rising from the west bank of the river. We felt
almost at home again, and marching until sunset, we bivouacked within
three miles of Gondokoro.

Back at Gondokoro.

That night we were full of speculations. Would a boat be waiting for
us with supplies and letters ? The morning anxiously looked forward to
arrived. We started; the English flag had been mounted on a fine
straight bamboo with a new lance-head specially arranged for the arrival at
Gondokoro. My men felt proud, as they would march in as conquerors ;
according to White Nile ideas such a journey could not have been accom-
plished with so small a party. Long before Ibrahim's men were ready to
start, our oxen were saddled and we were off, longing to hasten into Gon-
dokoro and to find a comfortable vessel with a few luxuries, and the post
from England. Never had the oxen traveled so fast as on that niorning ;
the flag led the way, and the men in excellent spirits followed at double-
quick pace.

" I see the masts of the vessels! " exclaimed the boy, Saat. " El hambd
el Ulah ! " (thank God !) shouted the men. " Hurrah ! " said I—" Three
cheers for old England and the Sources of the Nile! hurrah! " and my
men joined me in the wild, and to their ears, savage English yell. " Now
for a salute! Fire away all your powder if you Hke, my lads, and let the
people know that we'r; alive! "

This was all that wa 3 required to complete the happiness of my people.
and leading and firing as fast as possible, we approached near to Gondo-
koro. Presently we saw the Turkish flag emerge from Gondokoro, at
about a quarter of a mile distant, followed by a number of the traders'
people, who waited to receive us. On our arrival, they immediately
approached and fired salutes with ball cartridge, as usual advancing close
to us and discharging their guns into the ground at our feet. One of my

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498

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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servants, Mahomet, was riding an ox, and an oul friend of his in the
crowd happening to recognize him, immediately advanced and saluted
him by firing his gun into the earth directly beneath the belly of the ox
he was riding ; the effect produced made the crowd and ourselves
explode with laughter. The nervous ox, terrified at the sudden dis
charge between his legs, gave a tremendous kick, and continued madly
kicking and plunging, until Mahomet was pitched over his head, and lay
sprawling on the ground ; this scene terminated the expedition.

Frigrhtfiil Ravages of a Plague.

The foregoing account, given in Baker's most graphic language, shows
what hardships his expidition encountered, all of which were shared by
his heroic wife, who is the most celebrated woman traveller known to
Tropical exploration.

On reaching Gondoioo, only three boats had arrived, while the trading
parties were in consternation at hearing that the Egyptian authorities
were about to suppress the slave trade and with four steamers had
arrived at Khartoum, two of which had ascended the White Nile and
had captured many slavers. Thus the three thousand slaves who were
then assembled at Gondokoro would be utterly worthless.

The plague also was raging at Khartoum, and many among the crews
of the boats had died on the passage. Mr. Baker, however, engaged
one of them belonging to Koorshid Pacha.

Bidding farewell to his former opponent, Ibrahim, who had since,
however, behaved faithfully, Mr. Baker and his devoted wife commenced
their voyage down the Nile. Unhappily the plague, as might have been
expected, broke out on board, and several of their people died among
them. They chiefly regretted the loss of the faithful little boy, Saat.

At Khartoum, which they reached on the ,5th of May, 1865, they
were welcomed by the whole European population, and hospitably
entertained.

Here they remained two months. During the time the heat was in-
tense, and the place was visited by a dust-storm, which in a few minutes
produced an actual pitchy darkness. At first there was no wind, and
when it came it did not arrive with the violence that might have been
expected. So intense was the darkness, that Mr. Baker and his com-
panions tried in vain to distinguish their hands placed close before theii
eyes ; not even an outline could be seen. This lasted for upwards oi
twenty minutes, and then rapidly passed away. They had, however, felt
such darkness as the Egyptians experienced in the time of Moses.

The plague had been introduced by the slaves landed from two vessels

( :,

n? the crews

THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.

which had been captured, ar ' in which the pestilence had broken out
They contained upwards oi ht hundred and fifty human beings.
Nothing could be more dreadful than the condition in which the unhappy
beings were put on shore. The women had afterwards been distributed
among the soldiers, and, in consequence, the pestilence had been dissemi-
nated throughout the platfe. '

Mr. Baker had the satisfaction of bringing Mahomet Her, who hart
instigated his men to mutiny at Latooka, to justice. He was seized and
carried before the governor, when he received one hundred and fifty
lashes. How often had the wretch flogged women to excess ! What
murders had he not committed ! And now how he had howled for
mercy ! Mr. Baker, however, begged that the punishment might be
stopped, and that it might be explained to him that he was thus punished
for attempting to thwart the expedition of an English traveller by insti-
gating his escort to mutiny.

The Nile having now risen, the voyage was recommenced ; but their
vessel was very nearly wrecked on descending the cataracts.

On reaching Berber, they crossed the desert east to Sonakim on the
Red Sea. Hence, finding a steamer, they proceeded by .way of Suez to
Cairo, where they left the faithful Richarn and his wife in a comfortable
situation as servants at Shepherd's Hotel, and Mr. Baker had the satis-
faction of hearing that the Royal Geographical Society had awarded him
the Victoria Gold Medal, a proof that his exertions had been duly appre-
ciated. He, also, on his arrival in England, received the honor of
knighthood.

Sir Samuel and Lady Baker, after a short stay at home, returned to
Egypt ; Sir Samuel there having received the rank of pacha from the
Khedive.

It is gratifying to know that the heroic sacrifices and brilliant services
in Tropical exploration rendered by Mr. and Mrs. Baker were appreciated
in their own home, and were recognized by the government of Great
Britain. From an ordinary personage Mr. Baker rose to the rank of
Baronet, had the title conferred upon him by wWch he is now known to
the world, and this was given solely as a reward for meritorious services.
Few explorers in Africa have done more for the benefit of that benighted
region than he, and if hts own ideas and plans had been carried out, and
the great changes had taken place which he contemplated, Africa to-day
would be centuries nearer enlightenment than she is.

;•'

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CHAPTER XXIIT.

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A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

Tlie Khedive of Egypt— Baker Made a Pasha— Second Expedition Towards the
Sources of the Nile— A Scene of Desolation — Conveying Steel Steamers for the
Albert Lake — The Expedition's Outfit— Musical Boxes and Magic Lanterns— The
Military Forces — Baker's Very "Irregular Cavalry "—Grotesque Manoeuvres—
The Camel Transport— Gun Carriages and Heavy Machinery— Steaming up the
Nile— One of the Bravest Achievements of Modern Times — A Grand River— Im-
mense Flats and Boundless Marshes — Current Checked by Floating Islands—
Toilsome Passage— The Expedition Retreats— Pursuing Game — A Beautiful
Animal— Biker in Camp — The Shillook Tribe— Superior Savages— Crafty Tres-
passers — Old Chief with Immense Family — A Pompous Ruler — Wholesale Matri-
mony-Brown Men Get Jilted— A Little Black Pet— Natives Up in Arms— A
Dangerous Encounter — Attack From the Baris — Dastardly Traitor — The House-
hold—Black Boys Who Would Not Steal Sugar— Little "Cuckoo"— A Remarka-
ble Rock — An Old Superstition— On the March — Adventure with a Rhinoceros-
Horse Attacked —Timely Shot — The Wild Beast Laid Low — Arrival at Unyoro—
Sanguinary Battle — "Chinese" Gordon at Khartoum— Gordon's Untimely Death.

aFRICAN exploration was not destined to halt. We find Sir Samuel
Baker upon a second expedition fully equal in interest to the one
described in the preceding chapter. This expedition was urged by
the Prince of Wales, and was furthered by powerful patrons in Eng-
land. Baker had proved himself a bold spirit, the master of events and
circumstances, an explorer of great tact, endurance and energy, and it was
confidently believed that if he were sent into Central Africa not only would
a path for commerce be opened, but a large part of the country could be
annexed to Egypt, and active measures could be taken for the suppres-
sion of the slave traffic and other deeds of violence which rendered this
vast region a complete pandemonium.

The expedition was to last four years. During this period Baker was
made a Pasha, or was constituted an Egyptian governor. His territory
was vast in the extreme, being nothing less than the Nile region. It will
be understood that the Khedive of K<ji,ypt, by whose immediate authority
Baker conducted this expedition, received his title from the Sultan of
Turkey, and was given this name by virtue of having been made the
ruler of Egypt. Thus Baker began 'his great undertaking with as much
authority as it was needful or possible for anyone to have. He was sent
without let or hindrance, was given command of his own forces, was
(500)

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

bill

invested even with the power of life or death. He was made an autocrat,
was constituted a supreme ruler, and had he not been a very wi^e,
judicious, and self-possessed man, he would unquestionably have become
a tyrant, and a curse instead of a benefactor to the savage and warlike
tribes of Central Africa.

For the most part we shall permit Mr. Baker to tell his thrilling stor\ ■
in his own language.

In my former journey, he says, I had traversed countries of extreme
fertility in Central Africa, with a healthy climate favorable for the settU>
nicnt of white men, at a mean altitude of four thousand feet above the
sea-level. This large and almost boundless extent of country was well
peopled by a race who only required the protection of a strong but
paternal government to become of considerable importance, and to
eventually develop the great resources of the soil.

I found lands varying in natural capabilities according to their position
and altitudes — where sugar, cotton, coffee, rice, spices, and all tropi-
cal produce might be successfully cultivated ; but those lands were with-
out any civilized form of government, and " every man did what seemed

right in his own eyes."

A Scene of Desolation.

Rich and well-populated countries were rendered desolate ; the women
and children were carried into captivity ; villages were burned, and crop.s
were destroyed or pillaged ; the population was driven out ; a terrestrial
paradise was converted into an inrernal region ; the natives, who were
originally friendly, were rendered hostile to all strangers, and the general
condition could only be expressed in one word — "ruin."

To effect the grand reform contemplated it would be necessary to
annex the Nile Basin, and to establish a government in countries tliat
had been hitherto without protection, and a prey to adventurers from the
Soudan. To convjey steel steamers from England, and to launch thera
upon the Albert Lake, and thus open the resources of Central Africa ; to
establish legitimate trade in a vast country which had hitherto been a
field of rapine and of murder; to protect the weak and to punish the
evil-doe^ and to open the road to a great future, where the past had
been all darkness and the present reckless spoliation — this was the grand
object which Ismail, the Khedive of Egypt, determined to accomplish.

Before I left England I personally selected every article that was nec-
essary for the expedition ; thus an expenditure of about forty-five thous-
and dollars was sufficient for the purchase of the almost innumerable
items- that formed the outfit for th« enterprise. This included an admir-

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502

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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able selection of Manchester goods, such as cotton sheeting, gray calico,
cotton, and also woolen blankets, white, scarlet, and blue ; Indian scaris,
red and yellow ; handkerchiefs of gaudy colors, chintz printed ; scarlet
flannel shirts, sergv. of colors (blue, red), linen trousers, etc., etc.

Tools of all sorts — axes, small hatchets, harness bells, brass rods, cop.
/per rods, combs, zinc mirrors, knives, crockery, tin plates, fish-hooks,
musical-boxes, colored prints, finger-rings, razors, tinned spoons, cheap
watches, etc., etc.

Musical Boxes and Magric Lanterns.

I thus had sufficient clothing for a considerable body of troops if nec-
essary, while the magazines could produce anything from a needle to a
crow-bar, or from a handkerchief to a boat's sail. It will be seen here-
afier that these careful arrangements assured the success of the expedi-
tion, as the troops, when left without pay, could procure all they required
from the apparently inexhaustible stores of the magazines.

In addition to the merchandise and general supplies, I had several
large musical boxes with bells and drums, an excellent magic lantern,
v/heels of life, and an assortment of toys. The greatest wonder to the
natives were two large girandoles ; also the silvered balls, about six
inches in diameter, that, suspended from the branch of a tree, reflected
the scene beneath.

In every expedition the principal difficulty is the transport. " Travel
light, if possible," is the best advice for all countries; but in this instance
it was simply impossible, as the object of the expedition was not only to
convey steamers to Central Africa, but to esta'^I'sh legitimate trade in the
place of the nefarious system of pillage hitherto adopted by the so-called
White Nile traders.

The military arrangements comprised a force of one thousand six hun-
dred and forty-five troops, including a corpsjof two hundred irregular
cavalry, and two batteries of artillery. The infantry were two regiments,
supposed to be w^ell selected. The black, or Soudani, regiment included
many officers and men who had served for some years in Mexico with
tlie French army under Marshal Bazaine. The Egyptian regiment
turned out to be for the most part convicted felons who had bqen trans-
. sorted for various crimes from Egypt to the Soudan.

I reviewed the irregjlar cavalry, about two hundred and fifty horse
These were certainly verjf irregular. Each man was horsed and armed
according to his individual notion of a trooper's requirements. There
were lank, half-starved horses; round, short horses; very small ponies;
horses that were all legs ; others that were all heads ; horses that had

nd six hun-

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

603

been groomed; horses that had never gone through that operation.
The saddles and bridles were only fit for an old curiosity-shop. There
^^^ere some with faded strips of gold and silver lace adhering here and
there ; others that resembled the horse in skeleton appearance, which had
been strengthened by strips of raw crocodile skin. The unseemly huge
ohovel-stirrups were rusty ; the bits were filthy. Some of the men had
swords and pistols ; others had short blunderbusses with brass barrels ;
many had guns of various patterns, from the long, old-fashioned Arab
to the commonest double-barreled French gun that was imported. The
customs varied in a like manner to the arms and animals.

Grotesque Maiioeuvers.

Having formed in line, they now executed a brilliant charge at a sup-
posed enemy, and performed many feats of valor ; and having quickly
got into inconceivable confusion, they at length rallied and returned to
their original position.

I complimented their officer ; and having asked Djiaffer Pasha, one of
the Khedive's generals, if these brave troops represented my cavalry
force, and being assured of the fact, I dismissed them, and requested
Djiaffer Pasiha to inform them that " I regretted the want of transport
would not permit me the advantage of their services. 'Inshallah!'
(Please God !) at some future time," etc., etc.

I thus got rid of my cavalry, which I never wished to see again. I had
twenty-one good horses that I had brought from Cairo, and these,
together with the horses belonging to the various officers, were as much
as we could convey.

I had taken extra precautions, in the packing of ammunition and
all perishable goods. The teak boxes for ammunition, also the
boxes of rockets, were lined hermetically sealed with soldered tin. The
light goods and smaller articles were packed in strong, useful, painted
tin boxes, with locks and hinges. Each box was numbered, and when
the lid was opened, a tin plate was soldered over the open face, so that
the lid, when closed, locked above a hermetically sealed case. Each tin
box was packed in a deal case, with a number to correspond with the
box within. By this prrangement the tin boxes arrived at their destina-
tion as good as new, and were quite invaluable for traveling, as they
jach formed a handy load ?nd were alike proof against the attacks of
insects and bad weatihcr.

Camels and Guu-carriag^es.

I had long water-proof cloaks for the night sentries in rainy climates,
and sou'-wester caps; these proved of great service during active opera-

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604

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'■X ■.:> . i'-

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tions in the wet season, as the rifles were kept dry under the cloaks, and
the men were protected from wet and cold when on guard.

The provisions for the troops were wiieat, rice, and lentils. The sup-
plies from England, and in fact the general arrangements had been so
carefully attended to, that throughout the expedition I could not feel ,,
want, neither could I either regret or wish to have changed any plai ^
that I had originally determined.

For the transport of the heavy machinery across the desert I employed
gun-carriages drawn by two camels each. The long steel sections of
steamers and the section of life-boats were slung upon long poles of fir
arranged between two camels in the manner of shafts. Many hundred
poles served this purpose, and subsequently were used at head-quarter.s as
rafters for magazines and various buildings.

I had thrown my whole heart into the expedition ; but I quickly per-
ceived the difficulties that I should have to contend with in the passive
resistance of those whose interests w juld be affected. The arrangements
that I had made would have insured success, if carried out according to
the dates specified. The six steamers and the sailing flotilla from Cairo
should have started on June loth, in order to have ascended the cataracts
of the Wady Halfah at the period of high water. Instead of this the ves-
sels were delayed, in the absence of the Khedive in Europe, until August
29th ; thus, by the time they reached the second cataract, the river had
fallen, and it was impossible to drag the steamers through the passa^^e
until the next season. Thus twelve mo' ths were wasted, and I was at
once deprived of the mvaluable aid of six steamers.

Steaming- Up the Nile.

A train of forty-one railway wagons, laden with sections of steamers,
machinery, boiler sections, etc., etc., arrived at Cairo, and were embarked
on board eleven hired vessels. With the greatest difficulty I procured n
steamer of one hundred and forty horse-po^ver to tow this flotilla to
Korosko, from which spot the '^csert journey would commence. I
obtained this steamer only by personal application to the Khedive.

At length I witnessed the start of the entire party of engineers and
mechanics. One steamer towed the long line of eleven vessels against
the powerful stream of the Nile. One of the tow-ropes snapped at the
commencement of the voyage, which created some confu.'^ion, but, whci
r'ghted, they quickly steamed '^xxt of view. This mass of heavy material
including two steamers, and two steel life-boats of ten tons each, was to
be transported for a distance of about three thousand miles, four hundred
of which would be across the scorching Ni'bian deserts 1

(506)

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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The foregoing account of the obstacles encountered by Baker lends
an almost superhuman character to his subsequent success. Nothing
stopped him ; he leaped over difficulties that would easily have defeated
weaker men. His transport of the heavy freight of his expedition for
so great a distance over desert sands and through unexplored regions was
one of the bravest achievements of modern times.

The white Nile, says Baker, is a grand river between the Sobat junc
tion and Khartoum, and after passing south to the great affluent the dif-
ference in the character is quickly perceived. We now enter upon the
region of the immense flats and boundless marshes, through which the
river winds in a labyrinth-like course for about seven hundred and fifty
miles to Gondokoro. Having left the Sobat, we arrived at the junction of
the Bahr Giraffe, thirty-eight miles distant, on February 17th. Having
turned into the river, I waited for the arrival of the fleet.

Toilsome Passage.

The Bahr Giraffe was to be our new passage instead of the original
White Nile. That river, which had become so curiously obstructed by
masses of vegetation that had formed a solid dam, had been entirely neg-
lected by the Egyptian authorities. In consequence of this neglect an
extraordinary change had taken place. The immense number of floating
islands which are constantly passing down the stream of the White Nile
had no exit : thus they were sucked under the original obstruction by
the force of the stream, which passed through some mysterious channel,
until the subterraneous passage became choked with a wondrous accu-
mulation of vegetable matter. The entire river became a marsh, beneath
which, by the great pressure of water, the stream oozed through innum-
erable small channels. In fact, the White Nile had disappeared. A
vessel arriving from Khartoum in her passage to Gondokoro would find,
after passing through a broad river of clear water, that the bow would
suddenly strike against a bank of solid compressed vegetation — this was
the natural dam that had been formed to an unknown extent ; the river
ceased to exist.

I was rather anxious about this new route, as I had heard conflicting
accounts in Khartoum concerning the possibility of navigating such large
vessels as the steamers of thirty-two horse-power and a hundred feet
length of deck. I was provided with guides who professed to be thor-
oughly acquainted with the river; these people were captains of trading-
vessels, who had made the voyage frequently.

The rear vessels of the fleet having arrived, the steamers worked up
against the strong current independently. Towing was difficult, owing

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

607

to the sharp turns of the river. The Bahr Giraffe was about seventy yards
in width, and at this season the banks are high and dry. Throughout
the voyage on the White Nile we had had excellent wild-fowl shooiing
whenever we had halted to cut fuel for the steamers. One afternoon I
killed a-hippopotamus, two crocodiles, and two pelicans, with the rifle.
vVe found many young pelicans unable to fly. Flocks of the old birds
were sitting upon the benches of the lagoon, and it appeared that the
islands were their breeding-places ; not only so, but from the number of
skeletons and bones there scattered, it would seem that, for ages, these
had been selected as the closing scene of their existence. Certainly none
more likely to be free from disturbance of every kind could have been
chosen, than the islets of a hidden lagoon of an uninhabited locality ;
nor can anything be more consonant to their feelings, if pelicans have
any, than quietly to resign their breath, surrounded by their progeny,
and in the same spot where they first drew it,

" Day by day,
New lessons, exercises, and amusements
Employed the old to teach, the young to learn.
Now floating on the blue lagoon behold them,
The sire and dam in swan -like beauty steernig.
Their cygnets following through the foaming wake.
Picking the leaves of plants, pursuing insects,
Or catching at the bubbles as they brake ;
Till on some minor fry, in reedy shallows,
With flapping pinions and unsparing beaks, ^

The well-taught scholars plied their double art,
To fish in troubled waters, and secure
The petty captives in their maiden pouches ;
Then hurry with their banquet to the shore,
With feet, wings, breast, half swimming and half flying :
And when their wings grew strong to fight the storm,
And buffet with the breakers on the reef.
The parents put them to severer proofs. "^

As the fleet now slowly sailed against the strong current of the Bahr
Giraffe, I walked along the bank with Lieutenant Boker, and shot ten of
the large francolin partridges, which, in this dry season, were very
numerous. The country was, as usual, flat, but, bearing due south of the
Bahr Giraffe junction, about twelves miles distant, is a low granite hill,
partially covered .with trees; this is the first of four similar low hills that
are the only rising points above the vast prairie of flat plain.

As we were walking along the bank I perceived an animal ascending
from the river about two hundred yards distant, where it had evidently
been drinking ; we immediately endeavored to cut off its retreat, when it

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608

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'- 1.

suddenly emerged from the grass and discovered a fine Hon with large
shaggy mane. The king of beasts, as usual, would not stand to show
fight in the open field, but bounded off in the direction of the rocky hills.

The Ketreat.

The explorers had to return. Quoting from his journal Baker says:

All the vessels are stuck fast for want of water ! This is terrible.
I went on in advance of my diahbeeah, accompanied by Mrs. Baker, for
abo it three miles to explore. Throughout this distance the greatest
depth was about four feet, and the average was under three feet. At
length the diahbeeah, which drew only two feet three inches, was fast
aground ! This was at a point where two raised mounds, or dubbas,
were on opposite sides of the river. I left the vessel, and, with one
of my men, explored in the rowing-boat for about two miles in advance.
After the first mile, the boat grounded in about six inches of water upon
firm sand. The river, after having deepened for a short space, was sud-
denly divided into three separate channels, all of which were too shallow
for the passage of the diahbeeah, and two were even too shallow to admit
the small -boat. The boatmen jumped out, and we hauled her up the
shallows until we reached the main stream, above the three channels, but
having no greater mean depth than about two feet six inches.

We continued for some distance up the stream with the same unfortu-
nate results. The banks, although flooded during the wet season, were
now dry, and a forest was about a mile distant. Having left the boat
and ascended a white ant-hill about eight feet high, in order to take a
view of the country, I observed a herd of very beautiful antelopes, of a
kind that were quite unknown to me.

There is no change so delightful as a little sport, if you are in low
spirits; thus, taking the rifle, I rowed up the river for about half a mile
in the small boat, and then landing, I obtained the right wind. It was
exceedingly difficult to approach game in these extensive treeless flats,
and it would have been quite impossible, had it not been for the innu-
merable hills of the white ants ; these are the distinguishable features of
these .swampy countries, and the intelligence of the insects directs their
architecture to a height far above the level of the highest floods.' The
earth used in their construction is the subsoil brought up from a consid
erable depth ; as the ant-hills are yellow, while the surface-soil is black
The earth is first swallowed by the insect, and thus it becomes mixed with
some albuminous matter, which converts it into a cement that resists the
action of rain.

These hills were generally about eight feet high in the swampy districts,

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

509

but I have frequently seen them above ten feet. The antelopes make use

of such ant-hills as they can ascend as watch-towers, from which lofty

position they can observe an enemy at a great distance. It is the custom

of several varieties to place sentries while the herd is grazing ; and upoii

this occasion, although the sentry was alone visible, I felt sure that the.

herd was somewhere in his neighborhood. I have noticed that the sen~

tries are generally bulls. On this occasion I resolved, if possible, to stalk

the watchman. The grass was very low, and quite green, as it had been

fired by the wandering natives some time since ; thus, in places, there

were patches of the tall, withered herbage that had been only partially

consumed by the fire while unripe : these patches were an assistance in

stalking.

A Very Beautiful Animal.

It was, of course, necessary to keep several tall ant-hills in a line with
that upon which the antelope was standing, and to stoop so low that I
could only see the horns of the animal upon the sky-line. In some
places it was necessary to crawl upon the ground. This was trying work,
on account of the sharp stumps of the burned herbage, which punished
the hands and knees. The fine charcoal dust from the recent fire was
also a trouble, as the wind blew it into the eyes. The water-mark upon
the ant-hills was about eighteen inches above the base, proving the height
of the annual floods; and a vast number of the large water-helix, the size
of a man's fist, lay scattered over the ground, destroyed and partially cal-
cined by the late prairie fire.

The sun was very hot, and I found crawling so great a distance a
laborious operation ; my eyes were nearly blinded with perspiration and
charcoal dust ; but every now and then, as I carefully raised my head, I
could distinguish the horns of the antelope 'n\ the original positioa At
length I arrived at the base of the last £int-hill, from which I must take
my shot.

There were a few tufts of low scrub growing on the summit. To these
I climbed ; and digging my toes firmly into an inequality in the side of the
hill, I planted my elbows well on the surface, my cap being concealed by
the small bushes and tufts of Vithered grass. The antelope was standing
unconsciously about one hundred and eighty yards from me, perfectly
aotionless, and much resembling a figure fixed upon a pedestal. I was
delighted with my capture. It was a very beautiful animal, about thir-
teen hands high at the shoulder, the head long, the face and ears black,
also the top of the head ; the body bright bay, with a stripe oi black about
fifteen inches in width extending obliquely across the shoulder down both

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A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

611

the fore and the hind legs, and meeting at the rump. The tail was long^
with a tuft of long black hair at the extremity. The horns were deeply
annulated, and curved backward toward the shoulders.

In Camp.

On the 1st of May Baker established a camp at Tewfikayah. Here hf
was visited by the king of the Shillooks, a well-known tribe. A descrip ,
tion of this tribe will be of interest ia this connection, cnly a brief men-
tion having been made of it in a preceding chapter.

The Shillooks are a tall and fine-made race of men, approaching very
closely to the Negro, being black, with woolly hair. The flat nose and
enormous lips of the true Negro are, however, absent, and only in a few
cases is there an approach toward that structure.

The Shillook men arc v^ry ford of ornament. Their orna lents con-
sist chiefly of iron bracelets, apklets, and bead necklaces, and shoulder
and waist garments made of feathers. Caps of black ostrich plumes
decorate their heads, and many of these caps are ornamented with a
circle of cowrie-shells. Their weapons are clubs and lances, the latter
having iron wire twisted round the butt, so as to counter-balance the
head. They also carry a remarkable bow like shield.

The women wear no clothes until marriage, and then assume a coupler
of pieces of dressed hide, one in front and the other behind. These
hides reach nearly to the ankles, and are decorated round the lower
edge with iron rings and bells. The heads are shaved, and the ears are
bored all round their edges with a number of holes, from which hang
small clusters of beads.

The villages of the Shillooks are built very regularly, and in fact are
so regular as to be stiff and formal in appearance. The houses are made
of reeds, tall, of nearly the same height, and placed close to each other
in regular rows or streets, and when seen from a distance are compared
by Baker to rows of button mushrooms.

The Shillooks are very clever in the management of their rafts, which

they propel with small pebbles ; and even the little boys may be seen

paddling about, not in the least afraid of the swarming crocodiles, but

. always carrying a lance with which to drive oif the horrid reptiles if they

"attempt an attack.

Cratty Trespassers.

On one occasion the daring Shillooks established ? small colony on
the eastern or Dinka bank of the river, on account of the good pasturage.
As soon as the Dinka had withdrawn toward the interior, the Shillooks
crossed over, built a number of reed huts, ran an extemporized fence

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512

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

round them, and then brought over their cattle. They had plenty of
outposts inland, and as socm as the enemy were reported the ShilKjoks
embarked in their rafts, and paddled over to their own side of the river,
the cattle plunging into the water in obedience to a well-known call, ami
*bllowing the canoes and rafts of their masters. Strange to say, tlie
crocodiles do not meddle with cattle under such circumstances.

Aided by their rafts, the Shillook^ employ much of their time in fish-
ing. They do not use either net or hook, but employ the more sports-
manlike spear. This weapon is about ten feet in length, and has a
barbed iron head loosely stuck into the end of the shaft, both being coni
nected with a slack cord. As soon as the fish is struck, the shaft is dis-
engaged from the head, and being of light wood floats to the surface,
and so " plays " the fish until it is exhausted, and can be drawn ashore
by a hooked stick. The Shillooks often catch fish at random, wadin.^
through the river against the stream, and striking their spears right and
loft into the water.

Polygamy is of course practiced among the people. Mr. Pcthcrick
gives a very amusing description of an interview with a chief and his
family.

" At one of these villages, Gosa, with a view to establishing a trade in
hide, or if possible in ivory, I made the acquaintance of its chief, Dood,
who, with several of the village elders, entered my boat, the bank being
crowded with every man, woman, and child of the village. The chief, a
man past middle age, struck me by his intelligent remarks, and a bearinj^^
as straightforward as it was dignified and superior to that of his com-
panions. A few presents of beads were greedily clutched by his attend-
ants, he, however, receiving them as if they were his due ; and, passing
an order to one of his men, the trifle I had given him was returned by a
counter-present of a sheep. On his leaving I requested he would call
before sunrise, attended by his sons only, when I would make him and
them suitable presents.

«« You Don't Know My Family Yet."

" Long before the appointed time Dood and a crowd of men and strip-
lings, with their inseparable accompaniments of clubs and lances, on the
shore, woke me from my slumbers ; and, as I appeared on deck, a rush *
took place toward me, with cries of * The Benj ! the Benj I ' (the chief),
followed by salutations innumerable. As soon as these shouts subsided,
Dood, disembarrassing his mouth with some difficulty of a quid ot
tobacco the size of a small orange, sat down by my side.

" My first remark was astonishment at the number of his followers

had plenty of
tlvj Shilluoks

of the river,
lown call, am.!
[Q to say, the
ices,
r time in fish-

more sports-
ii, and has a
>th being coni
le shaft is dis-
o the surface,
drawn ashore
idom, wadin-:;
ars right and

Mr. Pothcrick
chief and his

md a bearintr

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513

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Ma' H

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having expected none but his ons. ' Oh, 'tis all right : you don't knov*
my family yet ; but, owing to your kind promises, I sent to the cattle
kraals for the boys ; ' and with the pride of a father he said, ' These are
my fighting sons, who many a time have stuck to me against the Dinka,
whose cattle have enabled them to wed.'

" Notwithstanding a slight knowledge of Negro families, I was still net
a little surprised to find his valiant progeny amount to forty grown-up
men and hearty lads. ' Yes,' he said, ' I did not like to bring the girls
and litde boys, as it would look as if I wished to impose upon your
generosity.'

" ' What 1 more little boys and girls ! What may be their number, and
how many wives have you ? '

" ' Well, I have divorced a good many wives ; they get old, you know;
and now I have only ten and five.' But when he began to count his
children, he was obliged to have recourse to a reed, breaking it up into
small pieces.

" Like all Negroes, not being able to count beyond ten, he called. oVer
as many names, which he marked by placing a piece of reed on the deck
before him ; a similar mark denoted another ten, and so on until he had
named and marked the number of his children. The sum total, with the
exception, as he had explained, of babies and children unable to protect
themselves, was fifty-three boys and twenty girls — seventy-three !

" After the above explanation I could no longer withhold presents to
the host on the shore ; and, pleased with my donations, he invited me to
his house, where I partook of merissa and broiled fowl, in which, as a
substitute for fat, the entrails had been left. Expressing a desire to see
his wives, he willingly conducted me from hut to hut, where my skin,
hair, and clothes underwent a most scrutinizing examination. Each wife
was located in a separate batch of huts ; and, after having distributed my
pocketfuls of loose beads to the lady chieftains and their young families,
in whose good graces I had installed myself, I took leave of the still
sturdy village chief."

The code a government among the Shillooks is simple enough. There
is a sultan or superior officer, who is called the " Meek," and who pos-
sesses and exercises powers that are almost irresponsible. The Meek
seems to appreciate the proverb that " familiarity breeds contempt," and
keeps himself aloof from his own subjects, seldom venturing beyond the
limits of his own homestead. He will not even address his subjects
directly, but forces them to communicate with ffim through th6 medium
of an official. Any one who approaches him must do so on his knees,

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

510

u don't knov*
:o the cattle-
d, * These are
1st the Dinka,

I was still net
rty grown-up
ring the <^irls
se upon your

ir number, and

aid, you know;
1 to count his
king it up into

, he called oVer
:ed on the deck
>n until he had
1 total, with the
lable to protect
three !

d presents to
invited me to
in which, as a
a desire to see
vhere my skin,
on. Each wife
distributed my
oung families,
.ve of the still

nough. There
and who pos-
The Meek
:ontempt," and
\g beyond the
his subjects
th6 medium
on his knees,

and no one may either stand erect or carry arms in his presence. He exe-
cutes justice firmly and severely, and especially punishes murder and theft
among his subjects, the culprit being sentenced to death, and his family
sold as slaves.

Theft and murder, however, when committed against other tribes, are
considered meritorious, and, when a marauding party returns, the MeckJ
takes one-third of the plunder. He also has a right to the tusks of all
elephants killed by them, and he also expects a present from every trader
who passes through his territory. The Meek will not allow strangers to
settle within the Shillook territories, but permits them to reside at Kaka,
a large town on their extreme north. Here many trading Arabs live
while they arc making their fortune in exchanging beads, cattle bells, and
other articles for cattle, slaves, and ivory. The trade in the latter article
is entirely carried on by the Meek, who has the monopoly of it, and
makes the most of his privilege.

Wholesale Matrimouy.

While at Tewfikeeyah Baker liberated a boat-load cf slaves that had
been captured by the Shillooks. Continuing his narrative he says: I
ordered the slaves to wash, and issued clothes from t'le magazine for the
naked women. On the following day I inspected the captives, and I
explained to them their exact position. The> were free people, and if
their homes were at a reasonable distance they should be returned. If
not, they must make themselves generally useful, '.n return for which tl^cy
would be fed and clothed.

If any of the women wished to marry, there were many fine young men
in the regiments who would make capital husbands. I gave cac.i person
a paper of freedom signed by myself. This was contained in a hollow
reed, and suspended round their necks. Their names, approximate age,
sex, and country were registered in a book corresponding with the num-
bers on their papers.

These arrangements occupied the whole morning. In the afternoon I
again inspected them. Having asked the officer whether any of the
negresses would wish to be married, he replied that all the woraen wished
to marry, and that they had already selected their husbands ! This was
wholesale matrimony, that required a church as large as Westminster
Abbey, and a whole company of clergy !

Brown Men All Jilted.

Fortunately, matters are briefly arranged in Africa. I saw the loving
i.uples standing hand in hand. Some of the girls were pretty, and my
black troops had shown good taste in their selection. Unfortunately,

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61G

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

however, for the Egyptian regiment, the black ladies had a strong antipathy
to brown men, and the suitors were all refused. This was a very awkward
affair. The ladies having received their freedom, at once asserted
*' woman's rights."

I wa.-; obliged to limit the matrimonial engagements ; and those who
were lor a time condemned to single blessedness were placed in charge of
certain officer?, to perform the cooking for the troops and other domestic
work. I divided the boys into classes ; some I gave to the English work-
men, to be instructed in carpenter's and blacksmith's work; others were
apprenticed to tailors, shoe-makers, etc., in the regiment, while the best-
looking were selected as domestic servants. A nice little girl, of about
three years old, without parents, was taken care of by my wife.

When. slaves are liberated in large numbers there is always a difficulty
in providing for them. We feel this dilemma when our cruisers capture
Arab dhows on the east coast of Africa, and our Government becomes
responsible foi aii influx of foundlings. It is generally quite impossible to
return them to their own homes ; therefore all that can be done is to
instruct them in some useful work by which they can earn their liveli-
hood. If the boys have their choice, t. ley invariably desire a military
life ; and I believe it is the best school for any young savage, as he is at
once placed under strict discipline, which teaches him habits of order and
obedience. The girls, like those of other countries, prefer marriage to
regular domestic work ; nevertheless, if kindly treated, with a due amount
of authority, they make fair servants for any rough employment.

A Little Black Pet.

When female children are about five years old they are most esteemed
by the slave-dealers, as they can be more easily taught ; and they grow
up with an attachment to their possessors, and in fact become members
of the family.

Little Mostoora, the child taken by my wife, was an exceedingly clever
specimen of her race ; and although she was certainly not more than
three years old, she was quicker than most children of double her age.
With an ugly little face, she had a beautifully shaped figure, and possessed
a power of muscle that I have never seen in a white child of that age.
Her lot had fallen in pleasant quarters : she was soon dressed in con-
venient clothes, and became the pet of the family.

It was not till December that the fleet quitted Tewfikeeyah, which was
then dismantled. The Shillook country was left at peace. The treacherous
governor was disgraced, and the king's sons rewarded. The ships then
began cutting their way south. One vessel was found sunk, and ailet

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

517

many " heart-breaking " disappointments, progress was resumed. A dam
had to be made to float the fleet, and during all the time the boats and
working parties were attacked by hippopotami, while disease broke out
among the soldiers. But on the 15th of April, 1871, the fleet arrived at
Gondokoro, after traversing an " abandoned country," a distance fourteen
hundred miles from Khartoum.

Xatives Up iu Arms.
The natives were not pleased at the arrival of Baker, who proceeded
to annex the country in the name of the Khedive, and issued a procla-
mation to the effect that everything belonged to the Khedive, and no
trading must proceed on any other basis. As may be anticipated, such
measures as the!>e gave considerable offence, and the Bari tribe revolted
against his authority. They didn't want any government, and on June
ist an order was issued to the effect that, the Baris having refused obe-
dience to the proclamation, force was necessary, and would be used
?.gainst them. The capture of women and children was forbidden during
hostilities, under penalty of death.

Preparations were made for defence, for the Baris were threatening.
Soon they came and drove off the cattle, the guards having presumably
gone away. The thieves were followed, and some of the cattle recap-
tured. Hostilities were now continuous, and the arrival of a treacherous
trader, Abou Saood, did not tend to improve matters, and Baker remon-
strated with him for continuing his friendly relations with the enemies of
the Government, commanded his withdrawal from the district, and made
him forfeit his stolen cattle.

This too lenient conduct was regretted by Baker afterwards, and,
during the time he remained, the incessant attacks of the Baris and the
half-hearted service of some of the troops made things very unpleasant,
and dangerous after a while. The crocodiles, too, were extremely fero-
cious, and many serious losses were occasioned by their attacks. One
animal was captured which contained five pounds weight of pebbles in its
stomach, a necklace, and two armlets, such as worn by the Negro girls.

A Daugfcrous Encounter.
In giving an account of the capture of one of these monsters in the
early part of the expedition, Baker says: Yesterday, as the men were
digging out the steamers, which had become jammed by the floating
rafts, they felt something struggling beneath their feet. They immedi-
ately scrambled away in time to avoid the large head of a crocodile that
broke its way through the mass in which it had been jammed and held
prisoner by the rafts. The black soldiers, armed with swords and bill-

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(518)

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

519

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hooks, immediately attacked the crocodile, who, although freed from
imprisonment, had not exactly fallen into the hands of the Humane
Society. He was quickly dispatched, and that evening his flesh glad-
dened the cooking-pots of the part}'.

I was amused with the account of this adventure given by various
oificers who were eye-witnesses. One stated, in reply to my question as
to the length of the animal, " Well, sir, I should not like to exaggerate,
but I should say it was forty-five feet long from snout to tail !" Another
witness declared it to be at least twenty feet ; but if one were seized by
such a creature he would be disposed to think that, whatever might be
its length, it is made up mainly of jaws.

The Baris were still very enterprising, and came night after night to
attack the expedition. Their wily method of advance, and the silence
which they observe, make their attack all the more dangerous. The
passive resistance of Baker had been regarded as cowardice, and one
evening a grand attack took place. The tribes were driven off, but the
troops in camp had permitted themselves to be surprised. Baker was
not at headquarters, and the artillery was " not even thought of! "

Baker having fortified Gondokoro, , which he now named Ismailia,
quitted it to carry the war into the enemy's country with 450 men. The
little fr^rce met the Baris after a march of thirteen miles, and an attack
was made on the stockades, which were carried at the point of the bay-
onet. The Baris bolted, and Baker bivouacked. After some skirmish-
ing, a treaty was proposed, and an alliance suggested. But treachery
was at work, and Baker discovering it, attacked the Baris in their stock-
ades. He then planted ambuscades, and succeeded in beating the Baris

at their own game.

Dastardly Traitor.

The discipline of the troops under him gave Baker considerable unea-
siness ; they wanted captives, which their commander had forbidden them;
and after some time his chief captain, Raouf Bey, mutinied. An expe-
dition was ordered to counteract this, and it succeeded, but the available
force had been much reduced by Raouf sending so many invalids and
others to Khartoum without orders. The treacherous trader had also
done all he could to paralyze the expedition, and things did not look
hopeful. Baker, however, determined not to be beaten, and he made an
expedition to the last cataracts of the White Nile. The result was a peace
with the Baris ; the swift steed and the Snider rifles had subdued the tribes;
Abou Saood and his people had departed.

An expedition to the South was now determined on, and, full of confi-

620

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

liy^^«'i

'■i

dence, Baker set out to open the communication with the Albert
Nyanza.

Says Baker : I knew the risks and the responsibility of this undertak-
ing; but I could not remain passive. I had often got through diflficuU
ties, and if risks are to be measured in Africa by ordinary calculations^
there would be little hope of progress.

Should my small force meet with defeat or destruetion, both the mili-
tary and civil world would exclaim, " Served him right! the expedition to
the interior made under such circumstances showed a great want of judg-
ment — a total ignorance of the first rules in military tactics. What could
he expect, without an established communication, at a distance of three or
four hxmdred miles from his base ? Simple madness ! — not fit to com-
mand ! "

I determined to carry as large a supply of ammunition as could be
transported, together with sufficient merchandise, carefully assorted, to
establish a legitimate ivorj' trade in my old friend Kamrasi's country,,
Unyoro.

I selected my officers and men, carefully avoiding Egyptians, with the
exception of several true and well-tried men. Several of the officers had
served in Mexico under Marshal Bazaine.

The Household.

Our servants had much improved. The Negro boys who had been
liberat.j had grown into most respectable lads, and had learned to wait
at table, and to do all the domestic work required. First of the boys in
intelligence was the Abyssinian, Amarn. This delicate little fellow was
perfectly civilized, and always looked forward to accompanying his mis-
tress to England. The next was Saat, who had received that name ini
memory of my good boy who died during my former voyage. Saat was
a very fine, powerful lad, who was exceedingly attached to me, but he
was not quick at learning. Bcllaal was a thick-set, sturdy boy of four-
teen, with rather a savage disposition, but quick at learning.

My favorite was Kinyon (the crocodile), the volunteer. This was a
very handsome Negro boy of the Bari tribe, who, being an orphan, canic
to my station and volunteered to serve me at the commencement of the
Bari war. Kinyon was tall and slight, with a pair of very large, expres-
sive eyes. The name Kinyon, or crocodile in the Bari language, had
been given him because he was long and thin. Both he and Amarn were
thoroughly good boys, and never received either chastisement or even a
scolding throughout a long expedition.

Jarvah was also a good lad, who went by the name of the "fat boy."

■,^i

ith the Albert

if this undertake
through difficult
ary calculations^

1, both the mlH-
;he expedition to
:at want of judg-
es. What could
tance of three or
-not fit to corn-
on as could be
uUy assorted, to
mrasi's country,.

^ptians, with the
f the officers had

who had been
learned to wait
|t of the boys in
little fellow was
[anying his mis-
id that name in
'age. Saat was
Id to me, but he
|dy boy of four-

;r. This was a

|n orphan, came

;ncenicnt of the

large, expres-
language, had
nd Amarn were

lent or even a

the " fat boy."

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

521

I should like to have exhibited him as a specimen of physical
comfort. Jarvah had a good berth ; he was cook's mate. His superior
was a great character, who, from the low position of a slave presented by
the king of the Shillooks, had risen from cook's mate to the most import-
ant position of the household. Abdullah was now the cook I He had
studied the culinary art under my first-rate Arab cook, who, having
received his discharge, left the management of our stomachs to his pupil..
Abdullah was an excellent cook, and a very good fellow, but he was dull
at learning Arabic. He invariably distinguished cocks and hens as.

" bulls " and " women."

liittle "Cuckoo/*

The last and the smallest boy of the household was little Cuckoo (or
Kookoo). Cuckoo was a sturdy child about six years old : this boy
had. I believe, run away from his parents in the Bari during the war, andi
had come to Morgian, our interpreter, when food was scarce among the
tribe. Following the dictru^s of his appetite, he had been attracted by
the savory smell of Abdullah's kitchen, and he had drawn nearer and
nearer to our establishment, until at length by playing with the boys,
and occasionally being invited to share in their meals. Cuckoo had
become incorporated with the household.

Abdullah and the six boys formed the native domestic corps. My
wife, who was their commanding officer, had them all dressed in uniform.
They had various suits of short, loose trowsers reaching half-way down;
the calf of the leg, with a shirt or blouse secured at the waist with a
leather belt and buckle. These belts A'ere made in England, and were
about six feet long ; thus they passed twice round the waist, and were
very useful when travelling, in case of a strap and buckle being required
suddenly.

The uniforms were very becoming. There was dark blue trimmed
with red facings ; pure white with red facings, for high days and holi-
days; scarlet flannel suits complete; and a strong cotton suit dyed
brown for traveling and rough wear. The boys were trained to change
their clothes before they waited at the dinner-table, and to return to
their working dresses after dinner, when washing-up was necessary. In
this habit they were rigidly particular ; and every boy then tied his din-
ner suit in a parcel, and suspended it to the roof of his hut, to be ready
for the next meal. There was a regular hour for every kind of work j
and this domestic discipline had so far civilized the boys that they were
of tlie gicat i.sf possible comfort to ourselves.

The washing-up after dinner was not a very long operation, as naif a

■'

522

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

I I

■'J <

\' hi

;s!

I '

imi

dozen plates arid the same number of knives and forks, with a couple ot
dishes, were divided among six servants. Directly after this work play
was allowed. If the night were moonlight, the girls were summon<.> J,
and dancing commenced. During the day their games were either play-
ing at soldiers, or throwing lances at marks.

Thieving was quite unknown among the boys, all of whom were
scrupulously honest. The sugar might be left among them, or even
milk ; but none of the boys I have mentioned would have condescended
to steal. They had been so well instructed and cared for by-my wife
that in many ways they might have been excellent examples for boys of
their class in civilized countries.

The foregoing account of those who composed this new expedition for

the South might be extended. Baker gives a very complete description

of it. He advanced to Lobore, after a march full of incident, through a

iDeautiful country.

Remarkable liock.

Bake, was careful to note everything of interest that transpired alon"-
his journey. Many marvels of nature might be described here, which are
peculiar to the Tropics.

Of course a country so extensive as Africa comprises all varieties of
scenery. There is the beautiful landscape ; there is the broad and flowing
river ; there are the deep marshes and jungles; and there in some places
are mountains, if net the loftiest in the world, certainly of majestic pro-
portions. And one advantage in following the great explorers through
the Dark Continent is that we obtain a definite idea of the general appear-
ance of the country and of the geological formations, and we emerge from
this same Dark Continent feeling that we have been in a world of wonders.

In one part of his expedition Baker came upon a very singular rock.
It was a formation very unusual, called by the natives " table rock." It
Avill be seen from the accompanying illustration that the projection of the
table over the pedestal on which it stands is so great that cattle may find
shelter under it. The rock forms a natural protection to man and beast.
This rock was considered so singular that an engraving of it has been
made, and we here reproduce it. It is only one of many marvellous
geological formations belonging to Africa.

An Old Superstition.

This rock must have chanced to fall upon a mass of extremely hard
•clay. The wearing away of the sloping surface, caused by the heavy
rains of many centuries, must be equal to the present height of the clay
pedestal, as all the exterior has been washed away, and the level reduced.

1 a couple ot
lis work play
; summon..' J,
e either play-

whom were
lem, or even
:ondescended
r by. my wife,
es for boys of

ixpedition for
te description
nt, through a

ispired along
:re, which are

1 varieties of

i and flowing

some places

ajestic pro-

rers through

eral appear-

emerge from

of wonders,
ngular rock,
e rock." It

ction of the
tie may find
n and beast.

it has been

marvellous

remely hard
the heavy
of the clay

Ivel reduced.

\'i'-im

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4 i>.=tH

(523)

• VVi

^ J:

524

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

m '^'"'

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ili*f|^

The clay pedestal is f:he original earth, which, having been protected
from the weather by the stone roof, remains intact.

The Baris, says Baker, seemed to have some reverence for this stone ;
and we were told that it was dangerous to sleep beneath it, as many peo-
ple who had tried the experiment had died. I believe this superstition is
simply the result of some old legends concerning the death of a- perse
who may have been killed in his sleep by a stone that probably detach^
and fell from the under surface of the slab. I examined the rock rare -
fully, and found many pieces that gave warning of scaling off. Seve,.'
large flakes, each weighing some hundred-weight, lay beneath the tabu
rock, upon the under surface of which could be distinr.Hy trac ed tiie
mould of th" slab en ath.

On the March.

At lengtl iiakev :;'i rived at Fatiko, where his old enemy, Abou Saood,
again endeavorc J, to air: <v him and thwart the expedition. His treachery
was afterwards carried to greater lengths.

On all these marches game of various kinds was found, and many
exciting captures are related. The following thrilling account is given ia
Baker's own words :

I had been observing the country for some time from my high station,
when I suddenly perceived two rhinoceroses emerge from a ravine ; t' cy
walked slowly through a patch of high grass, and skirted the base of the
hill upon which we were standing ; presently they winded something,
and they trotted back and stood concealed in the patch of grass.
Although I had a good view of them from my present position, I knew
that I should not be able to see them in their covert if on the same level;
I therefore determined to send to the tent for my other horses, and to ride
them down if I could not shoot them on foot ; accordingly, I sent a man
ofif, directing him to lead the horse I had been riding from the peak and
to secure him to a tree at the foot of the hill, as I was afraid the rhinoce-
ros might observe the horse upon the sky line. This he did, and we saw
him tie the horse by the bridle to the branch of a tree below us, while he
ran quickly towards the camp.

In the meantime I watched the rhinoceroses; both animals laid down
in the yellow grass, resembling masses of stone. They had not been
long in this position before we noticed two pigs wandering through the
grass directly to windward, toward the sleeping rhinosceroses ; in an instant
these animals winded the intruders, and starting up they looked in all
directions but could not see them, as they were concealed by the high
grass.

been protected

e for this stone ;
it, as many peo-
lis superstition is
eath of a perse r
'obably detachi
1 the rock '-arc-
ing off. Seveiu'.
;neath the tabic
inc'rh- trac ed ihe

ny, Abou Saood,
)n. His treachery

found, and many
xount is given in

my high station,
a a ravine ; t' cy
d the base of the
ded something,
patch of grass.
position, I knew

the same level ;
rses, and to ride
ly, I sent a man
m the peak and
aid the rhinocc-
did, and we saw

ov^^ us, while he

Imals laid down
had not been
ig through the
|es ; in an instant
ly looked in all
:d by the high

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

525

Having been thus disturbed, the rhinosceroses moved their quarters
and walked slowly forward, occasionallv halting and listening ; one was
about a hundred yards in advance of the other. They were taking a
direction at the base of the hill that would lead them directly upon t le spot
where my horse was tied to the tree. I observed this to one of my men,
as I feared they would kill the horse. " Oh, no," he replied, " they wi" lie
down r.nd s!>ep beneath the first tree, as they are seeking for shade- He
sun 1^ like fire."

The . 4.iiiiioceros Attacks 'i;he Horse.

Hovvever, they still continued their advance, and upon reaching some
rising ground, the leading rhinoceros halted, and I felt sure that he had
u clear view of the horse, that was now about five hundred yards distant,
tied to the tree. A ridge descended to the hill, parallel with the course
the animals were taking ; upon this I ran as quickly as the stony slope
permitted, keeping my eye fixed upon the leading rhinoceros, which, with
his head raised, was advancing directly town i.. <-he horse. I now felt
convinced that he intended to attack it. The hor did not observe the
rhinoceros, but was quietly standing beneatVi 'e i;eo. I ran as fast as I
was able, and reached the bottom of the h jjs. as the willful brute was
within fifty yards of the horse, which no at t.r the first time saw the
approaching danger ; the rhinoceros had ^er advancing steadily at a
walk, but he now lowered his head and charged at the horse at full speed.

I was about two hundred yards distant, and for the moment I was
afraid of shooting the horse, but I fired one of my rifles, and the bullet, misS'
ing the rhinoceros, dashed the sand and stones into his face as it struck
the ground exactly before his nose, when he appeared to be just into the
unfortunate horse. The horse in the same instant reared, and breaking
the bridle, dashed away in the direction of the camp, while the rhinoceros,
astonished at the shot, and most likely half blinded by the sand and
splinters of rock, threw up his head, turned round, and trotted back upon
the track by which he had arrived. He passed me about a hundred
yards distant, as I had run forward to a bush, by which he trotted with
his head r. sed, seeking for the cause of his discomfiture.

** Beelin{^ to and. Fro.**

Crack ! went a bullet against his hide, as I fired my remaining oarrel
at his shoulder ; he cocked his tall, and for a few yards charged towards
the shot ; but he suddenly changed his course and ran round several
times m a small circle ; he then halted, and reeling to and fro, retreated
very slowly, and laid down about a hundred yards off. I knew that he
had his quietus, but I was determined to bag his companion, which in

." k 1

' 'M

526

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

' i

•|

ij. .;

V '.■

P.J1

alarm had now joined him and stood looking in all quarters for the source
of danger ; but we were well concealed behind the bush.

Presently, the wounded rhinoceros stood up, and walking very slowly,
followed by his comrade, he crossed a portion of rising ground at the

HI'-

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

62r

;rs for the source

base of the hill, and both animals disappeared. I at once started off"
one of my men, who could run like an antelope, in search of the horse,
while I despatched another man to the summit of the peak to see if the
rhinoceroses were in view ; if not, I knew they must be among the small
trees and bushes at the foot of the hill. I thus waited for a long time,
until at length the two greys arrived with my messenger from the camp..
I tightened the girths of the Arab saddle, and had just mounted, cursing
all Arab stirrups, that are only made for the naked big toe, when my
eyes were gladdened by the sight of my favorite animal cantering
towards me, but from the exact direction the rhinoceroses had taken^
" Quick I quick I" cried the rider, " come along I One rhinoceros is
lying dead close by, and the other is standing beneath a tree not far off,'*

I immediately started, found the rhinoceros lying dead about two-
hundred yards from the spot ' where he had received the shot, and I
immediately perceived the companion standing beneath a small tree. The
^'ound was firm and stony, and all the grass had been burnt off except
in a few small patches ; the trees were not so thick together as to form a.
regular jungle

*' The Rhiuoceros Lay Kicking on the Gvound.**

The rhinc ceros saw us directly, and valiantly stood an'ti faced me as I
rode up within fifty yards of him. I was unable to take a shot in this
position, therefore I ordered the men to ride round a half-circle, as I knew
the rhinoceros would turn towards the white horses and thus expose his
flank ; this he did immediately, and firing well, exactly at the shoulder^
I dropped him as though stone dead. The rhinoceros lay kicking upon
the ground, and I thought he was bagged. Not a bit of it ! the bullet
had not force to break the massive shoulder-bone, but had merely
paralyzed it for the moment; up he jumped and started off in full gallop.
Now for a hunt 1 up the hill he started, then obliquely ; choosing a
regular rhinoceros path, he scudded away, my horse answering to the
spur and closing with him ; through the trees, now down the hill over
the loose rocks, where he gained considerably upon the horse. I took
a pull at the reins until I reached the level ground beneath, which was
firm and first-rate. This gave me just the advantage I needed for suc-
cesslul operations.

I saw the rhinoceros pelting away about a hundred and twenty yards
ahead, and spurring hard, 1 shot up to him at full speed 'jntil within
twenty yarde, when round he came with astonishing quickness and
charged straight at the horse. I was prepared for this, as was my horse
also; we avoided him by a quick turn, and again renewed the chase, and'

I! I

If '

|» St

'. :f.

■il

528

WONDERS OK THE TROPICS.

regained our position within a few yards of the game. Thus the hunt
continued for about a mile and a half, the rhinoceros occasionally charg-
inij, but always cleverly avoided by the horse, which seemed to enjoy the
fun, and hunted like a greyhound. Nevertheless I had not been able to
pass the rhinoceros ; he had thundered along at a tremendous pace when-
ever I had attempted to close ; however, the pace began to tell upon his
wounded shoulder ; he evidently went lame, and as I ob.served at some
distance before us the commencement of the dark-colored rotten g* "Mnd,
I felt sure that it would shortly be a case of " stand still." In this I was
correct, and upon reaching the deep and crumbling soil, he turned sharp
around, made a clumsy charge that I easily avoided, and stood panting at
bay. One of my men was riding a very timid horse which was utterly
useless as a hunter, but, as it reared and plunged upon seeing the rhi-
noceros, that animal immediately turned towards it with the intention of
charging. Riding close to his flank, I fired both barrels of my rifle into
the shoulder; he fell at the shots, and stretching out his legs convulsively,
he died immediately.

This was a capital termination to the hunt, as I had expected the death
of my good horse, when the first rhinoceros had so nearly horned him.
The sun was like a furnace, therefore I rode straight to camp and sent
men and camels for the hides and flesh. As I passed the body of the
first rhinoceros, I found a regiment of vultures already collected around it.

Arrival in Unyoro.

Passing on. Baker reached Masindi, in Unyoro. The king was visited,
and he expressed pleasure at Baker's arrival. He also gave accounts of
the bad behavior of Abou Saood. The king is described as an " undig-
nified lout of twenty years of age, who thought himself a great monarch."
He turned out a spy, and was evidently not to be trusted. The natives
were suspicious, Abou Saood treacherous, and the position Li Masindi
was becoming more strained. However, Unyoro was annexed to the
Khedive's dominions with some ceremony ; but after a while, some poi-
soned plantain cider having been sent as a present, and nearly proved
fatal to many. Baker prepared for resistance. But ere he could lay his
plans, the natives suddenly rose, and a fierce conflict ensued.

The battle lasted an hour and a quarter : the natives were defeated,
their capital destroyed. Baker lost several men, and his valued servant
Mansoor amongst them. The march was continued to Foweera, on the
Victoria Nile, fighting all the time ; and while at that place Baker heard
how Abou Saood had planned the attack and the poisoning at Masindi.
Until January, 1873, Baker and his brave wife remained in the country,

A RENOWNED EXPEDITION.

620

Thus the hunt
asionally charg-
tned to enjoy the
not been able to
dous pace when-
1 to tell upon his
bserved at some
d rotten g* "'ind,
" In this I was

he turned sharp
, stood panting at
^hich was utterly
n seeing the rhi-
li the intention of
s of my rifk into
legs convulsively,

cpected the death

:arly horned him.

to camp and sent

the body of the

llected around it.

using severe discipline ; but at last peace and prosperity were estab-
lished.

Abou Saocd was put in irons and sent to Cairo ; but he was set free
to trouble Colonel " Chinese " Gordon, who succeeded Baker, and whose
expedition resulted in important consequences to Central Africa.

Colonel Gordon reached Khartoum in March, 1874, and met the same
•* sudd," or vegetable obstruction, on the White Nile. The dam broke,
and carried ships and animals for miles. The scene is described as ter-
rific. Gordon quickly reached Gondokoro after this. He was accom-
panied by Geori, an Italian ; Colonel Mason, Purdy Bey, and Colonel
Long, Americans. Visits were made, and geographical observations
cind discoveries pursued. Darfour was conquered, and its cruel blind
ruler made captive. Gordon returned to England in 1879, and went to
India. When, in 1884, on the point of proceeding to the Congo for the
International Association, he was dispatched by the Liberal Govern-
ment to pacify the Soudan. Hostilities were excited against him and he
lost his lif<5, a brave hero to the last.

For a long time there was a vast amount of speculation concerning
Gordon's fate. The difficulty of obtaining news from the Soudan pre-
vented the outside world from arriving at a definite conclusion as to
whether he had been murdered or was still living. The miraculous
escapes he had already experienced, the wonderful nerve and resolution
characterizing him, the charmed life he had hitherto lived, overcoming
all obstacles, escaping from all plots, and proving himself apparently
superior to death itself, threw around him such an almost superhuman
character that it was believed he must still be living, although news came
of his death. Slowly the world was compelled to accept the unwelcome
intelligence that the great hero of the Soudan, the most marvelous fig-
ure standing against the sky of the Orient, had fallen before the spears.

of his foes.

t .*

CHAPTER XXIV.

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

I^kc and Grant on the March— Soldiers and Hottentots— Red Flannel and Wooly
Heads — Dividing the Duties of the Expedition— Strike for Higher Wages-
Rogues and Robbers — Excessive Politeness to Women— Polishing the African
Skin— Natives Who Run and Hide— Black Boys Badly Scared — Speke on a
Rhinoceros Hunt— Desperate Struggle to Obtain a Prize— Hunter Tossed Sky-
ward—An Extraordinary Animal — Use of the Rhinoceros Horn — Peculiar Eyes —
Habits of the Great Beast— A Match for the Swiftest Horse— A Hot Pursuit-
Singular and Fatal Wound— A Rhinoceros in London — The Wild Beast Tamed—
Fire-eating Monster — The Explorers Meet a Rogue — Kind Attentions of an Old
Friend — Singular African Etiquette — How a Wife Welcomes Her Husband Back
From a Journey— Muider and Plunder— Speke Obtains Freedom for a Slave-
Horrid Cannibals— A Popular African Drink— How " Pomba " is Made — Arrival
at Mininga— A Leader Who Was Named "Pig" — Obstinacy and Stupidity —
Chief Who Wanted to See a Wliite Man— Sly Tricks of the " Pig "—A Steady
Old Traveller — Illness of the Explorer— Reception by a Friendly Chief— Alarm-
ing News — Persistent Demands for Tribute — Necklaces of Coral Beads — The
Explorer's Guides Forsake Him — Hurried Tramp of Men — Arrival of Grant's
Porters.

eAPTAIN SPEKE, who had already made two expeditions into
Africa — on the second of which he discovered the great lake,
Victoria Nyanza — started, on the 30th of July, 1858, on a third
expedition, in the hopes of proving tUat the Nile has its source
in that lake. He was accompanied by an old Indian brother officer,
Captain Grant.

Having reached the island of Zanzibar, where some time was spent in
collecting a sufficient band of followers, they left Zanzibar on the 25th of
September, in a corvette placed at their disposal by the sultan, and
crossed over to Bagamoyo, on the mainland.

They had, as their attendants, ten men of the Cape Mounted Rifles,
who were Hottentots ; a native commandant, Sheikh Said ; five old blacU
sailors, who spoke Hindostanee; in addition to Bombay, Speke's former
attendant, factotum, and interpreter, a party of sixty-four Wagnana
blacks, emancipated from slavery; and fifteen porters of the interior.
The two chief men, besides Said, were Bombay and Baraka, who com-
manded the Zanzibar men. Fifty carbines were distributed among the
elder men of the party, and the sheikh was armed with a double-barrelled
rifle, given to him by Captain Speke. The sultan also sent, as a guard
(530)

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

631

Int, as a guard

of honor, twenty-five Beloochs, with an officer, to escort them as far as
Uaaramo, the country of the Wazaramo. They had also eleven mules to
carry ammunition, and five donkeys for the sick.

Their whole journey was to be performed on foot. As there were no
roads, their luggage was carried on the backs of men.

Bed Flannel aiul Wooly Heads.
Some time was spent among the porters in squabbling, and arranging
their packs. Their captain, distinguishable by a high head-dress of
ostrich plumes stuck through a strip of scarlet flannel, led the march,
flag in hand, followed by his gang of vvooly-haired negroes, armed with
spears or bows and arrows, carrying their loads cither secured to three-
pronged sticks oi', when they consisted of brass or copper wire, hung at
each end of sticks laid on the shoulder. The Waguana followed in
helter-skelter fashion, carrying all sorts of articles, next came the Hot-
tentots, dragging the mules with the ammunition, whilst lastly marched
the sheikh and the Belooch escort, the goats and women, the sick and
stragglers bringing up the rear.

One of the Hottentot privates soon died, and five others were sent back
sick. About thirty Seedecs deserted, as did nearly all the porters, while
the sheikh also soon fell sick.

On the 2d of October, having bid farewell to Colonel Rigby, the Brit-
ish consul at Zanzibar, who took deep interest in the expedition, and
afforded it every assistance in his power, the march began.

They had first before them a journey of five hundred miles to Caze,
the capital of the country of the Moon. This was a small portion, how-
ever, only of the distance to be performed.

Captains Speke and Grant divided the duties of the expedition
between them, the first mapping the country, which is done by timing
the rate of march, taking compass-bearings, noting the water-shed, etc.
Then, on arriving in camp, it was necessary to boil he tiiermometer to
ascertain the altitude of the station above the sea-lcel, and the latitude
by the meridional altitude of a star ; then, at inter/als of sixty miles,
lunar observations had to be taker to determine' ihe longitude ; and,
lastly, there was the duty of keeping a diary, sketching, and making
geological and zoological collections. Captain Giant made the botanical
collections and had charge of the thermometer. He kept the rain-gauge
and sketched with water colors, for it was found that photography was
too severe work for the climate.

The march was pursued before the sun was high, then came breakfast
and a pipe before exploring the neighborhood, and dinner at sunset, then

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

tea and pipe before turning in at night. Scarcely had they commenced
the journey than the petty chiefs demanded tribute, which it was neces-
sary to pay. The porters also struck for higher wages ; but, the leaders
going on, they thought better of the matter, and followed.

The poor Hottentots suffered much from the climate, and were con-
staritly on the sick-list. The Waguana treated them with great contempt,
and one day, while a little Tot was trying to lift his pack on his mule, a
large black grasped him, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifting them
above his head, paraded him around the camp amid much laughter, and
then, putting him down, loaded his mule and jfttted him on the back.

WAZARAMO VILLAGE.

" A day's march being concluded, the sheikh and Bombay arrange the
camp, issuing cloths to the porters for the purchase of rations, the tents
are pitched, the Hottentots cook, some look after the mules and donkeys,
others cut boughs for huts and fencing, while the Beloochsare supposed
to guard the camp, but p'-efer gossiping and brightening their arms
while Captain Grant kills two buck antelopes to suppl}' the larder."

The country through which they were passing belongs to the tribe of
Wazaramo. It is covered with villages, the houses of which are mostly
of a conical shape, composed of hurdle- work and plastered with clay, and
thatched with grass or reeds. They profess to be the subjects of the
Sultan of Zanzibar. They are arrant rogues, and rob travellers, wlui'

ley commenced
h it was neces-
but, the leaders
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, and were con-
great contempt,
on his mule, a
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h laughter, and
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TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

533

they can, by open violence. They always demand more tribute than
they expect to get, and generally use threats as a means of extortion.
One of their chiefs, the Lion-Claw, was very troublesome, sending back
the presents which had been made him, and threatening dire vengeance
if his demands were not complied with. Further on, Monkey's-Tail,
another chief, demanded more tribute ; but Speke sent word that he
should smell his powder if ^le came for it ; and, exhibiting the marks-
manship of his men, Monkey *s-Tail thought better of it, and got nothings

Excessive Politeuess to Women.

The people, though somewhat short, are not bad-looking. Though
their dress is limited, they adorn themselves with shells, pieces of tin.
and beads, and rub their bodies with red clay and oil, till their skins
appear like new copper. Ti eir hair is wooly, and they twist it into a
number of tufts, each of which is elongated by the fibres of bark. They
have one good quality, not general in Africa : the men treat the women
with much attention, dressing their hair for them, and escorting them to
the water, lest any harm should befall them.

Kidunda was soon reached. Hence the Belooch escort was sent back
the next day, with the specimens of natural history which had been col-
lected. Proceeding along the Kinganni River they reached the country
of the Usagara, a miserable race, who, to avoid the slave-hunters, build
their villages on the tops of hills, and cultivate only just as much land
among them as will supply their wants. Directly a caravan appears,
they take to flight and hide themselves, never attempting resistance if
overtaken. Their only dress consists of a .strip of cloth round the
waist.

Captain Grant was here seized with fever, and the sickness of the Hot-
tentots much increased. A long day's march from the hilly Usagara
country led the party into the cdiparatively level land of Upogo. Food
was scare*, the inhabitants living oji the seed of the cal^ash to save
their stores of grain.

The country has a wild aspect, well jn keeping with the natives who
occupy it. The men never appeared without their spears and shields.
They are fond of ornaments, the ordinary one being a tube of gourd
thrust through the lower lobe of the ear. Their color is somewhat like
tliat of a rich plum. Impulsive and avaricious, they forced their way into
thecampto obtain gifts, and thronged the road as the travellers passed by,
jeering, quizzing, and pointing at them.

Later they encamped on the eastern border of the largest clearing in
Ugogo, called Kanyenye, stacking their loads beneath a large gouty-

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TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

535

limbed tree. Here eight of the VVanyamuezi porters absconded, carry-
ing off their loads, accompanied by two Wagogo boys. -

Speke went to shoot a hippopotamus at night. Having killed one, two
more approached in a stealthy, fidgety way. Stepping out from his
shelter, with the two boys carrying his second rifle, he planted a ball in
tlie largest, which brought him round with a roar in the best position for
receiving a second shot ; but, on turning round to take his spare rifle^
Speke found that the black boys had scrambled off like monkeys up a
tree, while the hippopotamus, fortunately for him, shuffled away without
charging.

He hurried back to let his people know that there was food for them^
that they might take possession of it before the hungry Wagogo could
find it. Before, however, they had got the skin off the bea^t, the natives
assembled like vultures, and began fighting the nun. The scene, though
grotesque, was savage and disgusting in the extreme ; they fell to work
with swords and hatchets, cutting and slashing, thumping and bawling,
up to their knees in the middle of the carcass. When a tempting morsel
was obtained by one, a stronger would seize it and bear off the prize —
ri^ht was now might. Fortunately no fight took place between the
travellers and the villagers. The latter, covered with blood, were seen
scampering home, each with a part of the spoil.

Hunter Tossed Skyward.

A dangerous brute to encounter is the rhinoceros. He is ferocious,
swift, strong, with a very tough hide, and whether his foe is man or beast,
he is not likely to come out second best in a combat. The follow'ag
account of what befel a party of travellers v/ill show the fury of ihis
Tropical brute.

The narrator says : "As meat was wanted, several of the partv pro-
posed to set off at an early hour to bring in some from the aaimals we
had killed. As I did not like to be left be^ d, I begged to be al'ovved
to mount a horse and to ride with them. ^ lould have been wisor to
have remained quietly at the camp, but I w nited to revisit the scene of
our encounter the previous day. Several oft blacks followed behind, who
were to be loaded with our spoils. As we n- d the spot, I heard my friends
exclaiming in various tones : * Where is . ? What has become of the
creature ? ' and, pushing forward, I caught sight of the elephant and the
dead lion at a distance, but nowhere was the rhinoceros to be seen.
It was very evident that it could not have been killed as we had sup-
pos' d, and that, having only been stunned, it, at length, recovered itself,
and had made off.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

" Toko, one of the party, cried out that he had disv':overed its trail,.
and I saw him hurrying forward, evidently hoping to find the creature.
The other blacks meanwhile set to work to cut out the tusks, and select
a few slices off such parts of the body as were mosL to their taste, includ-
ing the feet, the value of which w; knew from experience.

THE ANIMAL SENT HIM INTO THE AIR.

"While they were thus occupied, my three white friends were busy in
flaying the lion. I kept my eye on Toko, expecting that, should he dis-
cover the rhinoceros, he would summon some of the party to his assist-
ance. I saw him look suspiciously into a thicket, then he turned to fly.
The next moment a huge beast rushed out, which I had no doubt was
tlie rhinoceros we fancied that we had killed on the previous day. Toko

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

637

ered its trails
the creature.
;s, and select
taste, includ-

made for a tree behind whi 'i he could shelter himself. I called to my
friends to draw their attention to the danger in which he was placed, but
to my dismay before he could reach the tree the rhinoceros was upoit
him. There was no time to leap either to the one side or the other, but
as the animal's sharp horn was about to transfix him, he made a spring
as ii" to avoid it, but he was not in time, and the animal, throwing up his
head, sent him and his rifle floating into the air to the height of several feet

" The rhinoceros then charged on towards the men cutting up the
elephant, when my uncle and his companions, having seized their rifles^
began blazing away at it. Fortunately, one of their shots took effect^
and before it had reached the blacks, down it sank to the ground.

" I had ridden up to the native, expecting to find every bone in his
body broken. As I approached, to my satisfaction, 1 saw him get up;
and though he limped somewhat, after shaking himself and picking up«
his rifle, he declared that he was not much the worse for the fearful toss
he had received, and was as ready as ever for work.

" He soon rejoined the rest of the men, and assisted in packing the
oxen with the tusks and meat Some of the flesh of the rhinoceros was.
also cut off, and with the lion-skin packed up. Rhinoceros meat, though
tough, is of good flavor. The portions we carried off were from the
upper part of the shoulder and from thv^ ribs, where we found the fat and
lean regularly striped to the depth oi Iv j inches. Some of the skin was
also taken for the purpose of making some fresh ox-whips. We of
course carried away the horns, which are about half the value of ivory.
Altogether, the adventure which at one time appeared likely to prove so
disastrous, afforded us no small amount of booty."

An Extraordinary AnimaL

The following description of the rhinoceros, as seen by Speke and
Grant, may appropriately be given here :

Both varieties of the African black rhinoceros are extremely fierce and
dangerous, and rush headlong and unprovoked at any object which
attracts their attention. They never attain much fat, and their flesh is
tough, and not much esteemed. Their food consists almost entirely of tlie
thorny branches of the " wait-a-bit " thorns. Their horns are much shorter
than those of the other varieties, seldom exceeding eighteen inches in
length. They are finely pohshed by constant rubbing against the trees.
The skull is remarkably formed, its most striking feature being the tre-
mendous, thick ossification in which it ends above the nostrils. It is on
this mass that the horn is supported. The horns are not connected with
the skull, being attached merely by the skin, and they may thus be sep-

538

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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arated from the head by means of a sharp knife. They are hard, and
perfectly solid throughout, and are a fine material for various articles,
such as drinking-cups, mallets for rifles, and handles for turners' tools.
The horn is capable of a very high polish.

The eyes of the rhinoceros are small and sparkling, but do not readily
observe the hunter, provided he keep to leeward of them. The skin is
extremely thick, and only to be penetrated with bullets hardened with
solder. During the day, the rhinoceros will be found lying asleep, or
standing indolently in some retired part of the forest, or under the base
of the mountains, sheltered from the power of the sun by some friendly
grove of umbrella-topped mimosas. In the evening they commence their
nightly ramble, and wander over a great extent of country. They usually
visit the fountains between the hours of nine and twelve o'clock at
night, and it is on these occasions that they may be most successfully
hunted, and with the least danger.

The black rhinoceros is subject to paroxysmsof unprovoked fury, often
plowing up the ground for several yards with its horn, and assaulting
large bushes in the most violent manner. On these bushes they work for
hours with their horns, at the same time snorting and blowing loudly ;
nor do they leave them in general until they have broken them into
pieces. All the four varieties delight to roll and wallow in the mud, with
which their rugged hides are generally encrusted.

A Match for the Swiftest Horse.
Both varieties of the black rhinoceros are much smaller and more
active than the white, and are so swift that a horse with a rider on its
back can rarely overtake them, yet they are often hunted with horses.
Both .'.ttain an enormous size, being the animals next in magnitude toti e
elephant. They feed solely on grass, carry much fat, and their flesh is
excellent, being preferable to beef They are of a muchtnilder and more
inoffensive disposition than the black rhinoceros, rarely charging their
pursuer. Their speed is very inferior to that of the other varieties.

If we examine the skull of a rhinoceros, we shall find that just under the
place where the root of the horn lies, there is a peculiar development of
the bone, on which the weight of the horn rests. Now, it is well known
that of all forms intended to support great weight, the arch is the stronij-
est. Such, then, is the form of the bone which supports the horn; and
in order to prevent the jar on the brain which would probably injure the
animal when making violent strokes with the horn, one side of the arch is
left unsupported by its pillar ; so that the whole apparatus presents the
appearance of a strong bony spring, which, although very powerful, would

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

539

ire hard, and
ious articles,
jrners' tools.

ier and more
rider on its

I with iiorses.

tnitude toti e

their flesh is
Ier and more

yield sufficiently on receiving a blow to guard the animal from the shock
which would occur, were the horn to be placed directly on the skull.

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Such a structure as this is not needed in the case of the elephant, as that
animal never strikes violently with its tusks, as the rhinoceros does with
•its horn.

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WONDERS OF ! HE TROPICS.

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That such is the intention of the structure is well shown by a curious
circumstance that took place during a rhinoceros-hunt, and which shows
that the animal can suffer severely from a blow on the horn, if that blow
is given in a different method from that which the creature is in the habit

of enduring.

A Hot Pursuit.

Some hunters were engaged in the pursuit of the rhinoceros, and
had roused one of the animals from the thicket in which it was
engaged in rubbing itself against the trees, after the usual fashion of the
creature.

The skin, although thick, is very sensitive between the folds, and suffers
much from the attacks of the mosquitoes and flies. The rhinoceros, to
allay the irritation, rubs against trees, and has a curious custom of grunting
loudly while performing this operation, and thus guides the hunter to its
place of refuge. They are thus enabled to steal through the underwood
unperceived, as the animal is too much engaged rubbing his sides to pay
any attention to sounds which would at any other time send him off in
alarm. By crawling along the ground, after the manner of serpents, they
generally contrive to inflict a mortal wound before he is aware of their
presence.

In the present case, the hunters were endeavoring to act in the same
manner, but the intended victim became alarmed, broke through the wood>
and made the best of his way towards a large cane-brake about two miles
distant. The whole party pursued him, and the poor animal was speedily
overtaken.

The number and severity of the wounds appear to have confused his
brain, for instead of keeping his straight course towards the canes, he
turned off short, and dashed into a narrow gully without any exit. Thp
ravine was so narrow that he broke to pieces many of the protruding
spears as he rushed in, and when he had fairly entered, there was barely
room to turn. The assailants now had it all their own way, and one of
them standing on the brink of the ravine took aim at his head, and
stretched him on the ground apparently lifeless. But scarcely had they
done this when the animal recovered from his wound, and struggled
upon his knees. Out went the hunters as fast as they could, and had it
not been for the presence of mind of one of them, who hamstrung the
rhinoceros before he ran away, in all probability several of the men would
JMve forfeited their lives.

Curiosity induced the hunters to search for the wound that had thus
stunned the animal, and they naturally expected to find the track of a

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

641

ball through the brain, or, at all events, a wound on the skull ; but after
some search, they found that the ball h'l only struck the point of the
foremost horn, and had carried off about an inch of it.

This is a very curious circumstance, because the blow was a compara-
tively slight one, and the shocks which the animal inflicts upon itself in
the daily occurrences of life must be very severe indeed. But the whole
structure of the head and horn is intended to resist heavy blows, while it
is not capable of sustaining a sharp, smart shock without conveying the
impression to the brain.

IniereHting^ Brutes.

About a hundred and fifty years a<;o, one of these big beasts was
brought to London from Bengal. He was a very costly animal ; though
only two years old five thousand dollars were expended in providing him
with food and drink. Every day he ate seven pounds of rice mixed with
throe pounds of sugar, divided into three portions. He also ate plenti-
fully of hay, but he much preferred fresh vegetables, grass and herbs.
He drank a great deal of water. He was so quiet and well-behaved
that he let people handle him, unless he was annoyed, or wanted his
breakfast. The well-known specimen in the Zoological Gardens in
London couldn't bear the noise of the roller used in keeping the gravel
pathway in order which adjoined his den ; his hearing was very quick,
so that even while enjoying his dinner he stopped, and started aside, to
listen.

Bingley gives the following account of a rhinoceros brought to Eng-
land in 1790. It was then about five years old. It was somewhat
tamed; it would walk about when desired to do so by its keeper; it
would let visitors pat its back. Its daily allowance was twenty-eight
pounds of clover, the same quantity of ship biscuit, and an enormous
amount of greens, it was fond of sweet wines, and would drink four or
five bottles in a few hours. He made nothing of drinking fifteen pails of
water in the course of a day. If he saw a person with fruit or any food '
that he was fond of, he would ask for a share, in a very pretty manner
for so huge a beast, making a noise somewhat like the bleating of a calf.
He died of inflammation, caused by slipping the joint of one of his fore
legs. Some doctors made openings in his skin, in order to relieve his
pain. These were always found quite healed up in the course of twenty-
four hours.

There is no doubt that the elephant and rhinoceros sometimes fight to-
gether madly, when they are in a wild state. Some years ago there was
a specimen in the Regent's Park Gardens, that contrived to get into the

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

den of an old elephant there. They were afterwards the best friends in
the world, and it was amusing to see how quiet the rhinoceros would
stand while his great friend scrubbed his back with his trunk, and occa-
sionally gratified himself by a sly pull at his tail, to make the rhinoceros
turn his head, if his attention was taken off by visitors.

We have said that the horn is not fastened to the skull, but simply
connected with his skin. It is not generally known that it can be removed
by passing a sharp knife round its base. The skin is so strong and thick,
that it can only be pierced by bullets of a peculiar make. The Negroes
of Africa know this perfectly well, and make it into shields and bucklers.
His playful antics are somewhat useful ; thus he will poke his horn into

PUT TO FLIGHT BY A SUDDEN CHARGE.

the ground, and then driving it along at a great rate, pushing with all his
'mighty force and strength, he will make a furrow broader and deeper
than that of a plough. Those who have watched his habits tell us that
he does this, not because he is in a passion, but in the pure enjoyment
of health and spirits ; just as when a little boy or girl, or dog or kitten,
scampers about a lawn.

Some species of this animal are wild, and can be easily tamed ; the
powerful Indian rhinoceros is the shyest, and the double-horned the
wildest. Mason, in his work, entitled "Burmah," remarked that the
common single-horned rhinoceros is very abundant. The double-horned
is not uncommon in the southern provinces; and then he alludes to the

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

54$

fire-eater of the Burmans, as distinguished from the common single-
horned kind. The fire-eating rhinoceros, he tells us, is so called from,
its attacking the night fires of travellers, scattering the burning embers,
and doing other mischief, being attracted by unusual noises, instead of
fleeing from them as most wild animals do. Professor Oldham's camp-
fire was attacked by a rhinoceros, which he fired at with a two-ounce
ball ; and three days afterwards the body was found, and proved to be of
the two-horned species. The skull of that individual is now' in the mus-
eum of Trinity College, Dublin. The commonest of the African rhinoc-
eroses has been known to manifest the same propensity, and so has evea
the ordinary American tapir. In general, however, the Asiatic two-
horned rhinoceros is an exceedingly shy and timid animal, and one of
the largest size has been seen to run away from a single wild dog.

The Explorers Meet a Rogue.

Returning to our narrative of Speke and Grant, we find that the Sheikh.
Magomba did his utmost to detain them, sending his chief, Wazir, in an
apparently friendly manner, to beg that they would live in his palace.
The bait, however, did not take — Speke knew the rogue too well. Next
day the sheikh was too drunk to listen to anyone, and thus day after
day passed by. The time was employed in shooting, and a number of
animals were killed. Magomba, however, induced nearly all of the
porters to decamp, and there was great difificulty in obtaining others to
take their places. An old acquaintance, whom they met in a caravan,
urged them not to, attempt to move, as he thought that it would be
impossible for them to pass through the wilderness depending only oa
Speke and Grant's guns for their support.

Still Speke resolved to push on, and most of the men who had deserted,
came back. To keep up discipline, one of the porters, who had stolea
seventy-three yards of cloth, which was found in his kit, received three
dozen lashes, and, being found to be a murderer and a bad character, he
was turned out of camp.

They spent New Year's Day at Round Rock, a village occupied by a.
few Wakimbu, who, by their quiet and domestic manners, made them
feel that they were out of the forest. Provisions were now obtained by
sending men to distant villages ; but they were able to supply the camp
with their guns, killing rhinoceros, wild boar, antelope and zebra.

In January they entered Unyamuezi, or the country of the moon^
inferior in size to England, but cut up into numerous petty states. The
name is abreviated to Weezee.

Next day they reached Caze, where Speke had remained long on a

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TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

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former visit. His old friend, Musa, came out to meet them, and escorted
them to his " tembe," or house, where he invited them to reside till he
could find porters to carry theiy property to Karague, promising to go
there with them himself. They found here also Sheikh Snay, who with
other Arab merchants, came at once to call on them. Snay told him
that he had an army of four hundred slaves prepared to march against
the chief, Manua Sera, who was constantly attacking and robbing their
caravans. Speke advised him not to make the attempt,^as he was likely
to get the worst of it. The other Arab merchant agreed that a treaty of
peace would be better than fighting.

Musa gave him much information about thp journey northward, and
promised to supply him with sixty porters from his slave establishment,
by which arrangement Speke would have a hundred armed men to form
his escort. Musa loudly praised Rumanika, the King of Karague,
through whose dominions the expedition was to pass.

Some time, however, was of necessity spent at Caze in making prepa-
rations for the journey, the two travellers employing themselves during it
in gaining information about the country.

African ^Etiquette.

The Wanyamuezi, among whom they were residing, are a polite race,
having a complete code of etiquette for receiving friends or strangers ;
drums are beat both on the arrival and departure of great people. When
one chief receives another, he assembles the inhabitants of the village,
with their drums and musical instruments, which they sound with all
their might, and then dance for his amusement. The drum is used, like
the bugle, on all occasions ; and, when the travellers wished to move, the
drums were beaten as a sign to their porters to take up their burdens.
The women courtesy to their chief, and men clap their hands and bow
themselves. If a woman of inferior rank meets a superior, she drops on
one knee and bows her head ; the superior then places her hand on the
shoulder of the kneeling woman, and they remain in this attitude some
moments, whispering a few words, after which they rise and talk freely.

The Wanyamuezi, or, as they are familiarly called, the Weezee, are
great traders, and travel to a considerable distance in pursuit of their
business.

When a husband returns from a journey, his favorite wife prepares to
receive him in a peculiar manner. Having put on all her ornament , to
which she adds a cap of feathers, she proceeds, with her friends, to the
principal wife of the chief, when, the lady coming forth, they all dance
before her, taking care to be thus occupied when the husband makes

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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his appearance, a band of music playing away and making as much noise
as possible with their instruments.

In February news was brought that Sheikh Snay had carried out his
intention of attacking Manua Sera, whom he found esconced in a house
at Tura. Manua, however, made his escape, when Snay plundered the,
whole district, and shot and murdered every one he fell in with, carrying\
ofif a number of slaves. The chief, in consequence, threatened to attack
Caze as soon as the merchants had gone off on their expeditions in

DANCING PARTY TO WELCOME A RETURNING HUSBAND.

search of ivory. Soon after this it was reported that Snay and other
Arabs had been killed, as well as a number of slaves. This proved to be
true.

Finding that nothing more could be done at Caze, the travellers,
assembling their caravan, commenced their march northward. At Min-
inga they were received by an ivory merchant named Sirboko. Here
one of Sirboko's slaves, who had been chained up, addressed Speke, pit-
eously exclaiming: "Oh, my lord, take pity on me! When I was a
free man, I saw you on the Tanganyika Lake ; my people were there

; much noise

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

647

attacked by the Watuta, and, being badly wounded, I was left for dead,
when, recovering, I was sold to the Arabs. If you will liberate me, I
will never run away, but serve you faithfully." Touched by this appeal,
Speke obtained the freedom of the poor man from his master, and he wa.s
christened Farham, or Joy, and enrolled among the other free men.

The abominable conduct of the Arabs, who persisted in attacking the
natives and devastating the country, placed the travellers in an awkward
position. The Hottentots, too, suffered so much from sickness that, as
the only hope of saving their lives, it was necessary to send them back
to Zanz'bar. Speke therefore found it necessary to return to Caze,
which he reached in May, leaving Grant, who was ill, behind at

Minings.

Horrid Cannibals.

He here heard of a tribe of cannibals, who, when they cannot get
huiran flesh, give a goat to their neighbors for a dying child, considering
such as the best flesh. They are, however, the only cannibals in that
district.

They were still in the country of the Weezee, of whose curious customs
they had an opportunity of seeing more. Both sexes are inveterate
smokers. They quickly manufacture their pipes of a lump of clay and a
green twig, from which they extract the pith. They all grow tobacco,
the leaves of which they twist up into a thick rope like a hay-band, and
then coil it into a flattened spiral, shaped like a target. They are very
fond of dancing. Meantime, the elders sit on the ground drinking
" pomba." On one of these occasions the chief, who was present, drank
more "pomba" than any of the people.

While the party were thus engaged, two lads, with zebra manes tied
over their heads, and two bark tubes, formed like huge bassoons, in their
hands, leaped into the centre of the dancers, twisting and turning and
blowing their horns in the most extraordinary manner. The men,
women and children, inspired by the sound of the music, on this began
to sing and clap their hands in time.

" Pomba " is a sort of spirituous liquor, produced from a kind of grain
grown in the country, which is cultivated by women, who nearly entirely
superintend the preparation of the drink.

They received a visit from Sultan Ukulima, of Unyamuezi, a fine hale
old man, who was especially fond of this beverage, drinking it all day
long. He was pleasant enough in manner, and rather amusing when he
happened not to be tipsy. Being fond of a practical joke, he used to
beg for quinine, which he would mix slyly with "pomba," and then offer

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548

WONDERS OK THE TROPICS.

It to his courtiers, enjoying the wry faces they made when partaking; of
the bitter draught, lie used to go round to the houses of his subjects,
managing to arrive just as the " pomba-"brewing Vv^as finished, when hu
would take a draught, and then go on to the next. He sometimes sucked
It through a reed, just as a sherry cobbler is taken, while one of hi?
slaves held the jar before him.

How "Poniba" is Made.

The women and men do not drink it together. It is the custom
of the ladies to assemble in the house of the sultana, and indulge in it in
her company.

The women, as has been said, are employed in the cultivation
of the grain from which it is made. When it is green, they cut oft
the ears with a knife. These are then conveyed to the village in
baskets, and spread out in the sun to dry. The men next thrash out the
grain with long, thin flails. It is afterwards stacked in the form of corn-
ricks, raised from the ground on posts, or sometimes it is secured round
a tall post, which is stuck upright in the ground, swelling out in the
centre somewhat in the shape of a fisherman's float. When required for
.use, it is pounded in wooden mortars, and afterwards ground between
two stones.

Speke reached Mininga again, where he found Grant greatly recov-
ered. During his absence three villagers had been attacked by a couple
of lions. The men took to flight, and two gained the shelter of their
hut, but the third, just as he was about to enter, was seized by the
monsters and devoured.

Difficulties of all sorts beset them : the chief was obtaining porters ;
Musa, too, who pretended to be so friendly, did not keep faith with
them ; but, rather than be delayed, Speke paid the beads demanded, and
once more set off.

At length he obtained a leader with a droll name, which may be
translated the Pig. He had frequently conducted caravans to Karague,
and knew the languages of the country. He proved to be what his
name betokened — a remarkably obstinate and stupid fellow.

Speke was still detained by the difficulty of procuring porters, some
being engaged in harvest, while others declared that they feared the
Watuta and other enemies in the districts through which they would
have to pass. An Arab caravan which had followed them was in the
same condition,

At length, having obtained a part of the number he required, a camp
was formed at Phunze, where Grant, with Bombay to attend on him,

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

549

remained in charge of part of the bay f^acjc, while Speke, with the Pig as
his guide and Baraka as his attendant, pushed on ahead. The chiefs of
every district through which they passed demanded tribute, without
which the travellers could not move forward. This caused numberless
provoking delays, as the chiefs were often not content with what was
offered to them.

Early in June he arrived in a district governed by a chief called
Myonga, famed for his extortions and infamous conduct, in consec^uence
of which no Arabs would pass that way. On approaching his palace,
war-drums were heard in every surrounding village. The Pig went
forward to obtain terms for the caravan to pass by. Myonga replied
that he wished to see a white man, as he had never yet set eyes on one,

PECULIAR AFRICAN BULLOCK.

and would have a residence prepared for him. Speke declined the favor,
but sent Baraka to arrange the tribute. Baraka amused himself, as
usual, for some hours, with firing off volleys of ammunition, and it was
not till evening that the palace drums announced that the tribute had
been settled, consisting of six yards of cloth, some beads, and other
articles. On this Speke immediately gave orders to commence the
march, but two cows had been stolen from the caravan, and the men
declared that they would not proceed without getting them back.
Speke knew that if he remained more cloths would be demanded, and as
soon as the cows arrived he gave them to the villagers.

This raised a mutiny among his men, and the Pig would not show th«
way, nor would a single porter lift his load. Speke would not enter the

^U!«

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550

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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village, and his party remained, therefore outside all night. The next
morninFj, as he expected, Myonga sent his prime minister, who declared
that the ladies of his court had nothing to cover their nakedness, and
khat something more must be paid. This caused fresh difficulties, the
drums beat, and at length, much against his inclination, Speke paid some
more yards of cloth for the sake of Grant, who might otherwise have
been annoyed by the scoundrel.

The " Pig's *' Dishonest Tricks.

This is a specimen of some of the lighter difficulties which the trav-
ellers had to encounter on their journey. Having passed a number of
villages, they entered a tract of jungle in which a stream formed the
boundary between the great country of the Moon and the kingdom of
Uzinga. The district Speke next entered was ruled by two chieftains
descended from Abyssinians. They were as great extortioners, however,
as any of the pure Negro race.

The Pig continued his tricks, and the travellers were heavily taxed and
robbed at every step. The porters, too, refused to advance, declaring
that they should be murdered, as the Watuta, their great enemies, were
out on a foray; finally, they ran away and hid themselves. These
Watutu, they said, were desperate fellows, who had invaded their coun-
try and killed their wives and children, and had despoiled them of every-
thing they held dear. Baraka also showed the white feather. Speke,
however, put on a bold front, and declared that he would return to Caze
and collect men who would not be afraid to accompany him to Usui. He
carried his plan into execution, rejoined Grant, and obtained two fresh
guides, Bui and Nasib, a steady old traveller. Still he was unable to
obtain fresh porters to carry on his baggage, and he was once more
obliged to part from Grant.

Alariningr News.

Having gone some way, Speke was taking seriously ill, while, again,
his guides refused to proceed. This occurred while he was in the dis-
trict of a chief, named Lumeresi, who insisted on his coming to his vil-
lage, feeling jealous that he had remained in that of another inferior
chief. Lumeresi was not in when Speke arrived, but on his return, at
night, he beat all his drums to celebrate the event, and fired a musket ;
in reply to which Speke fired three shots. The chief, however, though
he pretended to be very kind, soon began to beg for everything he saw.
Speke, who felt that his best chance of recovering from his illness was
change of air, ordered his men to prepare a hammock in which he might
be conveyed. Although he had already given the chief a handsome

TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS.

551

tribute, consisting of a red blanket, and a number of pretty, common
cloths for his children, no sooner did he begin to move than Lumeresi
placed hims "f in his way and declared that he could not bear the idea of
his white visitor going to die in the jungle. His true object, however,
was to obtain a robe which Speke had determined not to give him.
However, at length, rather than be detained, he presented the only one
,vhich he had preserved for the great chief, Rumanika, into whose terri-
tories he was about to proceed. Scarcely had the chief received it, than
he insisted on a further tribute, exactly double what had previously been
given him. Again Speke yielded, and presented a number of brass-wire
bracelets, sixteen cloths, and a hundred necklaces of coral beads, which
were to pay for Grant as well as himself

When about to march, however, Bui and Nasib were not to be found.
On this, Speke determined to send back Bombay to Caze for fresh guides
and interpreters, who were to join Grant on their return.

In the meantime, while lying in a fearfully weak condition, reduced
almost to a skeleton, he was startled, at midnight, out of his sleep by
hearing the hurried tramp of several men. They proved to be Grant's
porters, who, in short excited sentences, told him that they had left
Grant standing under a tree with nothing but a gun in his hand; that
his Wanguana porters had been either killed or driven away, having
been attacked by Myonga's men, who had fallen upon the caravan, and
shot, speared, and plundered the whole of it

■!H

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CHAPTER XXV.

r ,^: !

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

An African Village— Shelling Com— Furniture in a Native's Hut— Peculiar Soci.x
Customs— Evening Dance— A Favorite Game— Weezee Boys and Tiieir Bows and
Arrows— Singular Mode of Shooting— Affectionate Greetings— Fine Models of the
Human Form— Treatment of Slaves— A Happy Release— Avaricious Arabs-
Horrible Punishments Inflicted Upon Offenders— Attacked by Black Robbers-
Little Rohan, the Sailor— Boy's Bravery— Shooting Thieves— Speke and Grant at
Karague— Combats with Wild Animals— Beautiful Scenery— Interesting Family
of a King— Royal Fit of Merriment — Famous Fat Wives— Mode of Fattening
Women — Models of Beauty — Amusement in the Palace — A King's Levee— Meas-
uring a very Fat Lady — Desperate Battle with a Hippopotamus — Mountain Ga-
zelles—The Wonderful White Man— A King's Astonishment at Gunpowder-
Women Beating the War Drum — Mu><ical Instruments — Wild Musician— Gro-
tesque Band of Music— A Merry Christmas— Speke on His Way to Uganda-
Messengers from King Mtesa — A Remarkably Rich Country— Mountains of the
Moon — Droll Customs of Savages — Frightening Away the Devil— Interview with
King Mtesa— A Bhick Queen— The King Shoots an Adjutant-bird — Wild aiul
Fantastic Scene — A Famous Colonel — Arrival of Grant — The Explorers Pushing
Forward — Speke Loses One of His Men — Arrival at the Banks of the Nile-
Singular Conveyances— Brutal Attack of Natives— Speke and Grant at the End
of Their Journey — The Explorers Arrive in England — Important Discoveries of
Speke and Grant.

'E must now return to Captain Grant, who had been left in the
Unyamuezi country, about which, during his stay, he made
numerous observations.

" In a Weezee village," he tells us, " there are few sounds to
disturb the traveller's night rest. The horn of the new-comers, and the
reply to it from a neighboring village, an accidental alarm, the chiiping
of crickets, and the cry from a sick child occasionally, however, broke
the stillness. At dawn the first sounds were the crowing of cocks,
the lowing of cows, the bleating of calves, and the chirruping of
sparrows (which might have reminded him of America). Soon after
would be heard the pestle and mortar shelling corn, or the cooing of wild
pigeons in the neighboring palm-grove." The huts were shaped like
hay-stacks, dark within as the hold of a ship. A few eartiien jars, tat-
tered skins, old bows and arrows, with some cups of grass, gourds, and
perhaps a stool, constitute the furniture.

Different tribes vary greatly in appearance. Grant describes some as
(552)

culiar Soci.i
leir Bows and
Models of the
ious Arabs—
:k Robbers—
and Grant at
;sting Family
of Fattening
l^evee— Meas-
lountain Ga-
[junpowder—
usician — Gro-
to Uganda —
mtains of the
nterview with
rd— Wild and
orers Pushing
of the Nile-
it at the End
iscoveries o(

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

553

very handsome. He mentions two Nyambo girls, who, in the bloom of
youth, sat tojrether with their arms affectionately twined round each
other's neck, and, when asked to separate that they might be sketch^
their arms were dropped at once, showing their necks and busts to be of
the finest form. Their woolly hair was combed out. and raised up from
the forehead and over their ears by a broad band from the skin of a milk-
white cow, which contrasted strangely with their transparent, light-copper
skins. The Waha women are like them, having tall, erect, graceful
figures and intelligent features.

;s some as

SOCIAL AMUSEMENT AMONG THE WEEZEES.

An Arab trader, whom they had met, had sixty wives, who lived to-
gether in a double*-poled tent, with which he always travelled. One of
them was a Watusi, a beautiful tall girl, with large, dark eyes, and the
smallest mouth and nose, with thin lips and small hands. Her noble
race will never become slaves, preferring death to slavery.

Inside each Weezee village there is a club-house, or " iwansa," as it is.
called. This is a structure much larger than those which are used for
dwelling-houses, and is built in a different manner. One of these

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o54

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

iwansas, which was visited by Captain Grant, wzis a long, low room,
twelve by eighteen feet, with one door, a low, flat roof, well blackened
with smoke, and no chimney. Along its length there ran a high inclined
bench, on which cow-skins were spread for men to take their seats.
Huge drums were hung in one corner, and logs smouldered on the floor.

Into this place strangers are ushered when they first enter the village,
flirtd here they reside until a house can be appropriated to them. Here
the young men all gather at the close of day to hear the news, and join
in that interminable talk which seems one of the chief joys of a native
African. Here they perform kindly offices to each other, such as pulling
out the hairs of the eyelashes and eyebrows with their curious little
tweezers, chipping the teetli into the correct form and painting on the
cheeks and temples the peculiar marks which designate their clan.

Favorite Games.

Smoking and drinking also go on largely in the iwansa, and here the
youths indulge in various games. One of these games is exactly similar
to the one which has been introduced into England. Each player has a
stump of Indian ccrn, cut short, which he stands on the ground in front
of him. A rude sort of teetotum is made of a gourd and a stick, and is
spun among the corn-stumps, the object of the g_>me being to knock
down the stump belonging to the adversary. This is a favorite game,
and elicits much noisy laughter and applause, not only from the actual
players, but from the spectators who surround them.

In front of the iwansa the dances are conducted. A long strip of bark
or cow-skin is laid down, and the Weezees arrange themselves along it,
the tallest man always taking the place of honor m the middle. When
they have arranged themselves, the drummers strike up their noisy
mstruments, and the dancers begin a strange chant, which is more like
a howl than a song. They swing their hands, stamp vigorously, and are
pleased to think that they are dancing. The male spectators encourage
their friends by joing in the chorus.

The Weezee boys are amusing little fellows, and have quite a talent
for games. Of course they imitate the pursuits of their fathers, such as
shooting with small bows and arrows, jumping over sticks at various
heights, pretending to shoot game, and other amusements. Some of the
elder lads convert their play into reality, by making their bows and
arrows large enough to kill the pigeons and other birds which fly about
them. They also make very creditable imitations of the white man's
gun, tying two pieces of cane together for the barrels, modelling the
•Stock, hammer, and trigger-guard out of clay, and imitating the smoke by

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

556

tufts of cotton wool. That they are kind-hearted boys is evident from
the fact that they have tame birds in cages, and spend much time in
teaching them to sing.

The Wanyamuezi treat the Watusi with great respect. When two
people of these tribes meet, the former presses his hands together, the
Watusi uttering a few words in a low voice. If a Watusi man meets a

YOUNG VVEEZEE SHOOTING PIGEONS.

woman of his own tribe, she lets her arms fall by her side, while he gently
presses them below the shoulders, looking affectionately in her face.

The class of Arabs met with were a most degraded set : instead of
improving the country, they brought ruin upon it by their imperiousness
and cruelty. All traded in slaves and generally treated them most
harshly. Several gangs were met with in chains. Each slave was dreesed

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550

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

P-^

in a single goat's skin, and at night they kept themselves warm hy lying^
near a fire. Never, by day or night, is the chain unfastened ; should one
of them require to move, the whole must accompany him. All ate
together boiled sweet potato, or the leaves of the pumpkin plant, and
were kept in poor condition to [)revent their becoming troublesome.

Any meat or bones left from the travellers' dinners were therefore
given them, and accepted thankfully. One gang was watched over by ;>
small lad, whose ears had been cut off, and who treated tiiem with unfeel-
ing coarseness. A sick slave having recovered, it was the boy's duty to
chain him to his gang again, and it was grievous to see the rough way he
used the poor, emaciated creature.

They had not much work to do, the sole object of the owner being to
keep them alive and prevent their running away till sold at the coast.
They generally looked sullen and full of despair; but occasionally, at
night, they danced and became even riotous, till a word from the earles.s
imp restored them to order.

A Happy Uclease.
Anion>j^ them was a poor fellow who had been five years in chains.
The travellers took compassion on him, and released him from bondaj^e.
His chains were struck off with a hammer, and, once on his feet, a fieed-
man, he seemed scarcely to believe the fact, when, however, attired in a
clean calico shirt, he strutted about and soon came to make his new
master his best bow. On his body were numerous spear- wounds. He
had been captured by the Watuta, who had cut off .several of his toes.
This man never de • , J them during the journey, accompanying them
to Cairo, having g.i. • th character of a faithful servant.

The Arab in Africa takes presents for everything he does, and it was
believed that the white men would do the same. If a bullet was extracted,
a gun repaired, an old sultan ph}'sicked, or the split lobe of an ear
mended, a cow or cows were at hand to be paid when the task was
finished.

When slaves were brought for sale and declined by the Englishmen,
the natives could not understand their indifference to such traiific, but
would turn from them with a significant shrug, as much as to say : *' Why
are you here then ? "

The most horrible punishments are inflicted on those who offend
against the laws of the country. A woman and lad, who had been
accused of bewitching the sultan's brother, were found with their arms
tied behind them, writhing in torture on their faces. No sympathy was
shown them from the jeering crowd. The lad at last cried out : " Take

m by lying
should one
1. All ate
I plant, and
:some.
c therefore
J over by ;>
ivith unfccl-
)y's duty to
ugh way be-
er being to
it the coast.
Lsionally, at
I the earless

rs in chains.

)m bondaL;e.

feet, a f reed-
attired in a

ke his new
nids. He
of his toes.

niiT

them

and it was

IS extracted,

of an ear

task was.

Englishmen,
h traffic, but

jay

Iwho offend

had been

their arms

was

ipathy
)ut: "Take

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658

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

M:-MI

S*''.' I'

me to the forest, I know an hero remedy." He was allowed to go, while

the woman was kept in the stocks near the sick patient. The lad was put

to death, and Captain Grant suspected, tortured before a fire. Another

man, for a crime in the sultan's harem, was stripped, tied to railings, and

his person smeared with grease and covered with greased rags, which

were then set fire to, when he was dragged forth to a huge fire outside

the village. On his way, spears were darted at him by the son and

daughter-in-law of the sultan, and when he fell he was dragged out by

one leg.

Attacked by Black Robbers.

Grant had the same difficulties in moving that Speke had experienced.
At length he got away, but as he was passing through the territory of
Sultan Myonga, his men moving in Indian file, a band of two hundred
natives, armed with spears and bows and arrows, burst upon him, spring-
ing over the ground like cats. The uplifted spears and the shouts of the
robbers frightened the porters, who gave up their loads and attempted to
escape from the ruffians, who were pulling their clothes and loads from
them. Grant endeavored without bloodshed to prevent this, but, as he
had only one of his gun-men and two natives by him, he could do noth-
ing. Little Rohan the sailor, one of his Zambesi men, was found with
his rifle in hand at full cock, defending two loads against five men. He
had been urged to fly for his life. The property, he answered, was his
life. Grant made his way, however, to Myonga, seeing as he went the
natives dressed out in the stolen clothes of his men. Though honor was
dear, the safety of the expedition was so likewise, and one false step
would have endangered it.

Myonga pretended to be very indignant, and said that he had cut off
the hand of one of his men, and promised that the property should be
restored. Some of the loads were given back, but others had been broken
open and rifled, and the chief demanded an enormous tribute for permit-
ting Grant to proceed. This was the origin of the alarnling intelligence
Captain Speke had received.

At length the two travellers united their forces, and together they con-
tinued their journey towards Karague. To reach it they had first tt) pass
through the province of Usui, the chief of which, Suwarora, pillaged them
as usual. Here the little grass-hut villages were not fenced by a stockade,
but were hidden in large fields of plantains. Cattle were numerous, kept
by the Wahuma, who would not sell their milk, because the Englishmen
eat fowls. Their camp, night after night, was attacked by thieves. One
night, as Speke was taking an observation, a party of these rascals

' I

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

55»

enquired of two of the women of the camp what he was about. While
the latter were explaining, the thieves whipped off their clothes and ran
away with them, leaving the poor creatures in a state of absolute nudity.

Shooting^ Thieves.

Speke had not taken much notice of the goats and other things which
had been stolen, but, in consequence of this, he ordered his men to shoot
any thieves who came near. A short time afterwards, another band
approaching, one of the men was shot, who turned out to be a magician,,
and was till then thought invulnerable. He was tracked by his blood,^
and afterwards died of his wound. The next day some of Speke's men
were lured into the huts of the natives by an invitation to dinner, but,,
when they got them there, they stripped them stark naked and let them
go again. At night the same rascals stoned the camp. After thi.n
another thief was shot dead and two others were wounded. Bombay and
Baraka gave their masters also a good deal of trouble. The former, who
was looked upon as an excellent fellow, more than once go| very drunk,
and stole their property in order to purchase a wife for himself, besides
which the two men quarrelled desperately with each other.

At length, however, the travellers got free of Usui and the native guard
who had been sent to see them over the borders, and entered Karague,
to their great relief and happiness.

They had now, for some distance, wild animals alone to contend with,
and these they well knew how to manage. There was often danger, as
for in.,tance, one day when they were hunting a lioness, she suddenly
turned and with tremendous fury charged at her foes. Nothing but a
lucky shot saved them.

Soon after pitching their tent they were greeted by an officer sent by
the king, Rumanika, to escort them through his country. He informed
them that the village officers were instructed to supply them with food at
the king's expense, as there were no taxes gathered from strangers in the
kingdom of Karague.

Beautiful Scenery.

The country was hilly, wild, and picturesque, the higher slopes dotted
with thick bushes of acacias, the haunts of the white and black rhinoceros,
while in the valley were large herds of harte-beestes. The further they
proceeded into the country, the better they liked it, as the people were all
kept in good order. A beautiful lake was seen, which at first they sup-
posed to be a portion of the Nyanza, but it proved to be a separate lake,
to which the name of Windermere was given.

They now attained the delightful altitude of five thousand odd feet, the

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atmosphere at night feeling very cool. Away to the west some bold
sky-scraping cones were observed, and, on making enquiries, Speke was
convinced that those distant hills were the great turn-point of the Central
African water-shed. Numerous travellers, whom he collected round
him, gave him assistance in forming his map. He was surprised at the
amount of information about distant places which he was able to obtain
from these intelligent men.

As they approached the palace, the king, Rumanika, sent them a sup-
ply of excellent tobacco and beer manufactured by his people. On draw-
ing near his abode, the bearers were ordered to put down their loads and
fire a salute, and the two travellers at once received an invitation to visit
the king. He was found sitting cross-legged with his brother, both men
of noble appearance and size. The king was plainly dressed in an Arab
black robe ; he wore on his legs numerous rings of rich colored beads,
and neatly- worked wristlets of copper. His brother, being a doctor of
high credit, was covered with charms ; he wore a checked cloth wrapped
round him. Large clay pipes were at their sides, ready for use. In
their rear sat the king's sons, as quiet as mice.

The king greeted them warmly and affectionately, and in an instant
both travellers felt that they were in the company of men who were
totally unlike the common order of the natives of the surrounding dis-
tricts. They had fine oval faces, large eyes, and high noses, denoting
the best blood of Aby nia. They shook hands in the American style,
the ever-smiling king wishing to know what they thought of his country.
He observed that he considered his mountains the finest in the world :
"And the lake, too ; did not they admire it ? " He seemed a very intelli-
gent man, and enquired how they found their way over the world, which
led to a long story, describing the proportions of land and water, the way
ships navigate the ocean, and convey even elephants and the rhinoceros
to fill the menageries of Europe ai:d America.

A Fit of Merriment.

He gave them their choice of having quarters in his palace or pitching
their tents outside. They selected a spot overlooking the lake, on
account of the beautiful view. The young princes were ordered to attend
on them, one of whom, seeing Speke seated in an iron chair, rushed back
to his father with th« intelligence. Speke wms accordingly requested to
return, that he might exhibit the white man sitting on his throne.
Rumanika burst into a fresh fit of merriment at seeing him, and after-
wards made many enlightened remarks.

On another visit Speke told the king that if he would send two of his

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562

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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children, he would have them instructed in England, for he admired hit
race, and believed them to have sprung from the friends of the English,
the Abyssinians, who were Christians, and had not the Wahuma lost their,
knowledge of God, they would be so likewise. A long theological and
historical discussion ensued, which so pleased the king that he said he
would be delighted if Speke would take two of his sons to England. He
then enquired what could induce them to leave their country and travel,
when Speke replied that they had had their fill of the luxuries <>f life, and
that their great delight was to observe and admire the beauties of creation,
but especially their wish was to pay visits to the kings of Africa, and in
particular his Majesty. He then promised that they should have boats to
tConvey them over the lake, with musicians to play before them.

In the afternoon Speke, having heard that it was the custom to fatten

A HAPPY NATIVE.

up the wives of the king and princes to such an extent that they could
not stand upright, paid a visit to the king's eldest brother. On entering
the hut, he found the old chief and his wife sitting side by side on a bench
of earth strewed over with grass, while in front of them were placed
numerous wooden pots of milk. Speke was received by the prince with
great courtesy, and was especially struck by the extraordinary dimen-
sions, yet pleasing beauty of the immoderately fat fair one, his wife.

She could not rise. So large were her arms that between the joints
the flesh hung like large loose bags. Then came in their children, all
riiodels of the Abyssinian type of beauty, and as polite in their manners
as thorough-bred gentlemen. They were delighted in looking over his
picture-books and making enquiries about them. The prince, pointing
to his wife, observed : " This is all the product of those pots, as, from

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

563

early youth upwards, we keep those pots to their mouths, being the cus-
tom of the court to have very fat wives."

The king, having supposed that the travellers had been robbed of all
their goods, was delighted with the liberal presents he received, above all
that of a coat of handsome scarlet broadcloth. He told them that they
might visit every part of his country, and when the time arrived for pro-
ceeding to Uganda, he would escort them to the boundary.

Altogether, Rumanika was the most intelligent and best-looking ruler
the travellers met with in Africa. He had nothing of the African in his
appearance, except that his hair was short and wooly. He was fully six
feet two inches in height, and the expression of his countenance was
mild and open. He was fully clothed in a robe made of small antelope-
skins and another of dark cloth, always carrying, when walking, a long
staff in his hand. His four sons were favorable specimens of their race,
especially the eldest, named Chunderah. He was somewhat of a dandy,
being more neat about his lion-skin covers and ornaments than his
brothers. From the tuft of wool left unshaven on the crown of his head
to his waist he was bare, except when his arms and neck were decorated
with charmed horns, strips of otter-skins, shells, and bands of wool.

Amusement in the Palace.

He was fond of introducing Friz, Speke's head-man, into the palace,
that he might amuse his sisters with his guitar, and in return the sisters,
brothers, and followers would sing Karague niusic. The youngest son
was the greatest favorite, and on one occasion, the travellers having pre-
sented him with a pair of white kid gloves, were much amused with the
dignified way in which he walked off, having coaxed them on to his
fingers.

Rumanika, contrary to the usual African custom, was singularly abste-
mious, living almost entirely on milk, merely sucking the juice of boiled
beef. He scarcely ever touched plantain wine or beer, and had never
been known to be irttoxicated. The people were generally excessively
fond of this wine, the peasants especially drinking large quantities of it.

One of the most curious customs which Rumanika holds in his char-
acter of high priest, is his new-moon levee, which takes place every
month, for the purpose of ascertaining the lovaity of his subjects. On
the evening of the new moon the king acorns himself with a plume of
feathers on^his head, a huge white beard descending to his breast. He
takes post behind a screen. Before him are arranged forty long drums
on the ground, on the head of each of which is painted a white cross.
The drummers stand each with a pair of sticks, and in front is their

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564

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

leader, who has a couple of small drums slung round his neck. The
leader raises first his right arm and then his luft, the performers imitatinjr
him, when he brings down both sticks on the drums with a rapid roll,
they doing the sime, until the noise is scarcely to be endured. This
having continued for some hours, with the additon of smaller drums and
other musical instruments, the chiefs advance in succession, leaping and
gesticulating, and shouting expressions of devotion to their .sovereign.
Having finished their performance, they kneel before him, holding out
their knobbed sticks that he may touch them, then, retiring, make room
for others.

Civilized as the country is in some respects, marriage is a matter of
barter between the father and the intended husband, the former receiving
cows, slaves, sheep, etc., for his daughter. Should, however, a bride not
approve of her husband, by returning the marriage gifts she is again at
liberty. The chief ceremony at marriages consists in tying up the bride
in a skin, blackened all over, and carrying her with a noisy procession to

her husband.

Mca^^iirin? n Very Fat Lady.

The ladies of this country lead an easy life in many respects, their chief
object, apparently, being to get as fat as possible. Many of them succeed
wonderfully well, in consequence of their peculiar constitution, or from
the food they eat being especially nutritious. Five of Rumanika's wives
were so enormous that they were unable to enter the door of any ordinary
hut, or to move about without being supported by :i person on either
side. One of his sisters-in-law was of eve i still greater proportions.
Speke measured her ; round her arm was one foot eleven inches ; chest,
four feet four inches; thigh, two feet seven inches; calf, one foot ei<^dit
inches ; height, five feet eight inches.

He could have obtained her height more accurately could he have had
her laid on the floor ; but, knowing the difficulties he would have had to
contend with in such a piece of engineering, he tried to get her height by
raising her up. This, after infinite exertion, was accomplished, whtnshe
sank down again, fainting, for the blood had rushed into her head.
Meanwhile the daughter, a lass of sixteen, .sat before them, sucking at a
milk-pot, on which the father kept her at work by holding a rod in his
hand ; for, as fattening is one of the first duties of fashionable female life,
it must be duly enforced with the rod if necessary. The features of the
damsel were lovely, but her body was as round as a ball.

The women turn their obesity to good account. In exchanging food
for beads it is usual to purchase a certain quantity of food, which shall

neck. The
rs imitatin{T
I rapid roll,
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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

be paid for by a belt of beads that will go round the waist. The women
of Karague being on an average twice as large round the waist as those
of other districts, food practically rises a hundred per cent, in price. Not-
withstanding their fatness their features retain much beauty, the lace
being oval and the eyes fine and intelligent. * The higher class of women
arc modest, not only wearing cow-skin petticoacs, but a wrapper of black
cloth, with which they envelop their whole bodies, merely allowing one
hand to be seen.

The travellers were allowed to move about the coflntry as they liked,
and the king sent his sons to attend on them, that they might enjoy
such sport as was to be found. They heard of no elephants in that dis-
trict, but harte-beestes, rhinoceros, and hippopotami were common.
Desperate Battle "With the Biver-horso.

The exciting capture of the last-named beast furnishes material
for many exciting tales of adventure, A traveller alludes to the
custom the natives have ot throwing sand into the animal's eyes.
Blinded for the time, smarting, and assailed at his most sensitive point,
the hippopotamus plunged back into the stream to lave his eyes, and the
natives could not withstand his strength, even if the now doubled and
firmly twisted together harpoon lines would have borne the strain, so
they slacked away as he pulled, waiting until he was quiet to haul away
again, and diag him to the bank. To this the out-manceuvred brute wa!>
foolishly nothing loath, and, having cleansed the sand from his eyes,
rushed back to the fight, his black and savage heart eager for the destruc-
tion of his tormentors. Again, however, was he put to flight as before.
Streaming with blood, spouting it in torrents from his mouth and through
his nostrils, although he crunched the lance shafts like so many straws,
yet the blades remained deep in his throat and vitals, whilst many a
deadly thrust had been given behind his shoulder-blades.

So the fight went on for nearly two hours, the huge animal's attacks
being always frustrated by the sand-throwing, while every appearance he
made above the water was the signal to receive numerous fresh wounds.
At length, fairly exhausted, his fierce energy and mighty strength alike
subdued, he was dragged and held as far out of the water as it was pos-
sible to pull'so great a weight ; what was gained was retained by taking
a round-turn with the end of the rope about a neighboring piece of rock
and then the animal was secured. The natives value the hippopotamus
for his hide, his flesh, and his ivory.

One day Captain Grant saw two harte-beestes engaged in a desperate
combat, halting calmly between each round to breathe. He could hear,

The women
aist as those
1 price. Not-
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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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even at a considerable distance, the force of every butt as their heads
met, and, as tliey fell on their knees, the impetus of the attack, sending
their bushy tails over their backs, till one, becoming thtf victor, chased
the other out of the herd.

Several varieties of antelope and the mountain gazelle were seen bound-
ing over the hills. Pigs abounded in the low grounds, and hippopotami
in the lake.

Captain Spcke went out in search of rhinoceros, accompanied by the
prince, with a party of beaters. In a short time he dicovered a fine male,
when, stealing between the bushes, he gave him a shot which made him
trot off, till, exhausted by loss of blood, he lay down to die. The young
princes were delighted with the effect of the Englishman's gun, and, seiz-
ing both his hands, congratulated him on his successes.

A second rhinoceros was killed after receiving two shots. While pur-
suing the latter, three appeared, who no sooner sighted Speke, than they
all charged at him in line. His gun-bearers, however, were with him,
and, taking his weapons, he shot the three animals in turn. One dropped
down a little u ay on, but the others only pulled up when they arrived at
the bottom of the hill. One kept charging with so much fury that they
could not venture to approach till Spekq had given him a second ball,
which brought him to the ground. Every man then rushed at the
creature, sending his spear or arrow into his sides until he sank like a
porcupine covered with quills.

The Wonderful White Man.

The heads were sent to the king, to show what the white man could
do. Rumanika exhibited the greatest astonishment, declaring that some-
thing more potent than powder had been used ; for, though the Arabs
talk of their shooting powers, they could not have accomplished such a
feat. " It is no wonder," he added, " that the English are the greatest
men in the world.*'

Rumanika, like great men in other countries, had his private band.
The instruments were of a somewhat primitive character, while the
musicians differed in appearance considerably from those of America.
The mobt common instruments are the drums, which vary greatly in
size : or*e hung to the shoulder is about four feet in length, and one in
width It is played with the fingers, like the Indian " tom-tom." The
drums used at the new-moon reception are of the same shape, but very
much larger. The war-drum is beaten by women. At its sound the
men rush to arms, and repair to their several quarters. There are also
/*cveraJ stringed instruments. One of these, which Captain Grant de-

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

569

scribes, was played by an old woman ; it had seven notes, six of which
were a perfect scale. Another, which had three strings, was played by a
man : they were a full, harmonious chord. A third instrument called
the " nanga," formed of dark wood, in the shape of a tray, had three
crosses in the bottom, and was laced with one string, seven or eight times,
over bridges at either end.

The prince sent the best player to be found to entertain his guest.
The man entered, dressed in the usual Wanyambo costume, looking a
wild, excited creature. After resting his spear against the roof of his

PECULIAR MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.

hut, he took a " nanga" from under his arm and began playing, his wild
yet gentle music with words, attracting a number of admirers. It was
about a favorite dog, and for days afterwards the people sang that dog
song.

They have two wind instruments, one resembling a flageolet, and
another a bugle. The latter is composed of several pieces of gourd, fittcvl
one into another, in telescope fashion, and is covered with cow-skin.

Rumanika's band was composed of sixteen men, fourteen of whom had
bugles, and the other two hand-drums. On the march they form in
three ranks, the drummers being in the rear, swaying their bodies in time

If.li

I: M '

570

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

to the music, while the leader advances _ with a curiously active step,
touching the ground alternately with each knee. They also, when the
king rested on a march, or when out hunting, played before him, while
he sat on the ground and smoked his pipe.

The Wahuma, like most Africans, have great faith in the power of
charms, and believe that by their means persons can be rendered invul-
nerable. They also believe in the constant presence of departed souls,
supposing that they exercise a good or evil influence over those whom
they have known in life. When a field is blighted or a crop does not
promise well, a gourd is placed in the pathway; passsengers setup a
wailing cry, which they intend as a prayer to the spirits to give a good
crop to their mourning relatives. Rumanika, in order to propitiate the
spirit of his father, was in the habit of sacrificing annually a cow on his
tomb, and also of placing offerings on it of corn and wine. These and
many other instances show that, though their minds are dark and mis-
guided, the people possess religious sentiments which might afford
encouragement to missionaries of the gospel.

A Merry Christmas.

The commencement of 1 862 found the travellers still guests of the
enlightened king. Hearing that it was the English custom on Christmas
Day to have an especially good dinner, he sent an ox. Captain Speke
in return paid him a visit. He offered him the compliments of the
season, and reminded him that he was of the old stock of Abyssinians,
who were among the oldest Christians on record, and that he hoped the
time would come when white teachers would visit his country, to instruct
him in the truths which he and his people had forgotten.

Active preparations were now made for the departure of the trav'^l'.ers,
but unhappily Captain Grant was suffering from so severe a complaint in
one of his legs, that he was compelled to remain behind, under the pro-
tection of the hospitable sovereign, while Speke set off for Uganda.

About the middle of January a large escort of smartly-dressed men,
women, and boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, under the
command of Maula, arrived from Mtesa, King of Uganda, to conduct the
travellers to his capital. Maula informed them that the king had ordered
his officers to supply them with everything they wanted while passing
through his country, and that there would be nothing to pay.

Speke set forth, in the hopes that before long he should settle the great
Nile problem for ever. It was, however, not believed that he would be
able to proceed north from Uganda, Rumanika especially declaring that
he would be compelled to return to the southward.

^=7

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

671

Passing through a remarkably rich country, famous for its ivory and
coffee productions, they descended from the Mountains of the Moon to an
alluvial plain, where Rumanika keeps thousands of cows. Once ele-
phants abounded here, but, since the increase of the ivory trade, these
animals had been driven off to the distant hills.

They soon reached the Kitangule River, which falls into the Victoria
Nyanza. It was about eighty yards broad and so deep that it could not
be poled by the canoe-men, while it runs at a velocity of from three to
four knots an hour. It is fed from the high-seated springs in the Moun
tiins of the Moon. 3peke believed that the Mountains of the Moon give
birth to the Congo as well as the Nile, and also the Shire branch of the
Zambesi. •

Frightening^ Away the DeTil.

The country through which they passed was a perfect garden of plan-
tations, surprisingly rich, while along the banks of the river numberless
harte-beestes and antelopes were seen.

At a village, where they were compelled to stop two days, drumming,
singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing went on the whole time, during
the night as well as day, to drive the " phepo," or devil, away. In front
of a hut sat an old man and woman, smeared with white mud, and hold-
ing pots of beer in their laps, while people came, bringing baskets full of
plantain squash and more pots of beer. Hundreds of them were collected
in the court-yard, all perfectly drunk, making the most terrific uproar.

The k.'ng sent messengers expressing his desire to see the white man.
Speke now sent back to Grant, earnestly urging him to come on if he
possibly could, as he had little doubt that they would be able to proceed
across the country to the northward. On approaching the capital, a mes-
senger came to say that the king, who, by the way, is our old friend
Mtesa, was so eager to meet the white man that he would not taste food
until he had seen him.

Speke won his favor by blistering and doctoring him. , He managed
to keep up his own dignity by refusing to submit when improperly
treated. He also gained great credit with the monarch by exhibiting his
skill as a sportsman ; and Mtesa was delighted to find that after a little
practice he himself could kill birds and animals. He did not, however,
confine himself to shooting at the brute creation, but occasionally killed
a man or woman who might have been found guilty of some crime.

A Black Queen.

After he had been some time in the palace, he was introduced to the
queen dowager. Her majesty was fat, fair, and forty-five. He found her

!;l#'-'"

|i|f#fHi^'*^^'^l

572

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

seated in the front part of her hut, on a carpet, her elbow resting on a
pillow. An iron rod, like a spit, with a cup on tho top, charged with
magic powder, and other magic wands were placed before the entrance,
and within the room four sorceresses, or devil-drivers, fantastically
dressed, with a mass of other women, formed the company. They bein^t
dismissed, a band of musicians came in, when beer was drunk by the
queen, and handed to her visitor and high officers and attendants. She
smoked her pipe, and bid Speke to smoke his. She required doctoring,
and Speke had many opportunities of seeing her, so completely winning
her regard that she insisted on presenting him with various presents,
among others a couple of wives, greatly to his annoyance. She appeared
to be a jovial and intelligent personage. •

On his next visit the king told Speke that he had wished to see hjm on
the previous day, and begged that whenever he came he would fire a gun
at the waiting hut, that he might hear of his arrival. The king was much
pleased with a portrait Speke made of him, as also with his colored
sketches of several birds he had killed, but was still more delighted with
some European clothes, with which he was presented.

When Speke went to visit him, he found his Majesty dressed in his
new garments. The legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the
waistcoat, v/ere much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck
out at the extremities as an organ player's monkey's do, while the cocks-
comb on his head prevented a fez cap, which he wore, from sitting
properly. On this visit twenty new wives, ^ lughters of chiefs, all
smeared and shining with grease, were presented, marching in a line
before the king, and looking their prettiest, whilst the happy fathers
floundered on the ground, delighted to find their darling daughters
appreciated by the monarch. Speke burst into a fit of laughter, which
was imitated not only by the king but by the pages, his own men chuck-
ling in sudden gusto, though afraid of looking up.
• The King: Makes a Capture.

The king at last returned Speke's visit. Having taken off his turban,
as Speke was accustomed to take off his hat, he seated himself on his
stool. Everything that struck his eye was admired and begged for.
though nothing seemed to please him so much as the traveller's wide-
awake and mosquito curtains. The women, who were allowed to peep
into Bana's (the white man's) den, received a couple of sacks of beads, to
commemorate the visit.

A few days afterwards he was accompanying the king when an
adjutant-bird was seen in a tree. The king had a gun Speke had given

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CURIOUS ADJUTANT-BIRD.

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

him, but he had fittle more than one charge of powder remaining.
Speke had left his gun at home. The king at the second shot killed
the bird, greatly to his delight. He insisted upon carrying the bird to
show to his mother.

Before entering the palace, however, he changed his European clothes
for a white goat-skin wrapper. Directly afterwards a battalion of his
army arrived before the palace, under the command of his chief officer,
whom Speke called Colonel Congou. The king came out with spearand
shield in hand, preceded by the bird, and took post in front ®f the
enclosure. His troops were divided into three companies, each contain-
ing about two hundred men. After passing in single file, they went
through various evolutions. Nothing, Speke says, could be more wild
or fantastic than the sight which ensued. Each man carried two spears
and one shield, held as if approaching an enemy. They thus moved in
three lines of single rank and file at fifteen or twenty paces asunder, with
the same high action and elongated step, the ground leg only being
bent to give their strides the greater force. The captains of each com-
pany followed, even more fantastically dressed.

Astounding^ Dress.

The great Colonel Congou had his long, white-haired goat-skins, a
fiddle-shaped leather shield, tufted with white hair at all six extremities,
bands of long hair tied below the knees, and the helmet covered with
ricii beads of several colors, surmounted with a plume of crimson
feathers, from the centre of which rose a stem, tufted with goat-hair.
Finally the senior officers came charging at their king, making violent
protestations of faith and honesty, for which they were applauded.

Speke was now, towards the end of May, looking forward to the
arrival of Grant. To propitiate the despot he sent a compass, greatly to
the delight of Mtesa, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and yePled
with intense excitement, and said it was the greatest present Bana had
ever given him, for by this he found out all the roads and countries.

It had been arranged that Grant should come by water ; but the
natives, fearing to trust themselves on the lake, brought him all the dis-
tance on a litter. At length, the sound of guns announced the arrival of
Grant, and Speke hurried off to meet his friend, who was now able to
limp about a little, and to laugh over the accounts he gave of his
travels.

The travellers forthwith began to make arrangements for proceeding
on to Unyoro, governed by Kamrasi, of despicable character and con-
sidered merciless and cruel, even among African potentates, scattering

r remaining,
d shot killed
J the bird to

)pean clothes
talion of his
chief officer,
'ith spearand
front ®f the
ach contain-
;, they went
►e more wild
d two spears
us moved in
isunder, with
; only being
)f each com-

goat-skins, a
K extremities,
covered with
: of crimson
th goat-hair,
aking violent
auded.
rward to the
ss, greatly to

and yeMed
nt Bana had
juntries.
iter ; but the

all the dis-
the arrival of

now able to

gave of hii

■ proceeding
:er and con-
;s, scattering

(575)

:H,.

676

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

I H ■;

death and torture around at the mere whim of the moment; while he
was inhospitable, covetous, and grasping, yet too cowardly to declare
war against the King of the Waganda, who had deprived him of por-
tions of his dominions. The Waganda people were, therefore, very
unwilling to escort the travellers into his territory ; and Colonel Congou
declared th it if compelled to go, he was a dead man, as he had once led
an army into Unyoro.

The travellers' great object was to reach the spot where the Nile waf
supposed to flow out of the Victoria Nyanza, and proceed down the
stream in boats.

By July the arrangements for their journey were made. The king
presented them with a herd of cows for their provisions, as well as some
robes of honor and spcarc, and he himself came out with his wives to
see them off. Speke ordered his men to turn out under arms and
acknowledge the favors received. Mtesa complimented them on their
goodly appearance and exhorted them to follow their leader through fire
and water, saying that, with such a force, they would have no difficulty
in reaching Gani.

Pusliingr Forward.

It was arranged that Grant should go on to Kamrasi direct, with the
property, cattle, etc., while Speke should go by the river to examine its
exit from the lake, and come down again, navigating as far as practicable.

They now commenced their march down the northern slopes of
Africa, escorted by a band of Waganda troops, under the command of
Kasora, a young chief They had proceeded onwards some days, when
Kari, one of Spcke's men, had been induced to accompany some of the
Waganda escort to a certain village of potters, to obtain pots for making
plantain wine. On nearing the place, the inhabitants rushed out. The
Waganda men escaped, but Kari, whose gun was unloaded, stood still,
pointing his weapon, when the people, believing it to be a magic horn,
speared him to death, and then fled.

After passing through a country covered with jungle, Speke reached
the banks of the Nile. The shores en either side had the appearance of
a highly-kept park. Before him was a magnificent stream, six or seven
hundred yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks — the former occupied
by fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and crocodiles, basking in the
sun — flowi.ig belt\veen fine, high, grassy banks, covered with trees and
plantations. In the background herds of harte-beestes co.uld be seen
grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water, Florican and
Guinea fowl rising at their fcer.

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

577

The chief of the district received them courteously, and accompanied
Speke to the Isamba Rapids.

The water ran deep between its banks, which were covered with fine
grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons of lilac, while here and there,
where the land had slipped above the rapids, bare places of red earth
could be seen. There, too, the waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked
like a huge mill-pond, sullen and dark, in which two crocodiles, floating
about, were looking out for prey. From the 'high banks Speke looked
down upon a line of sloping wooded islets lying across the stream, which,
by dividing its waters, became at once both dam and rapids. " The
whole scene was fairy-like, wild and romantic in the extreme," says Cap-
tain Speke.

Proceeding southward they reached the Rippon Falls, by far the most
interesting sight he had seen in Africa.

" Though beautiful, the scene was not exactly what I expected, for
the broad surface of the lake was shut out from view by a spur of hill,
and the falls, about twelve feet deep and four to five hundred feet broad,
were broken by rocks ; still it was a sight that attracted one to it for
nours. The roar of the waters, the thousands of passenger fish leaping
at the falls with all their might, the fishermen coming out in boats, and
taking post on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami and croco-
diles lying sleepily on the water, the ferry at work above the falls, and
cattle driven down to drink at the margin of the lake, made in all, with
the pretty nature of the country — small grassy-topped hills, with trees in
the intervening valleys and on the lower slopes — as interesting a picture
as one could wish to see."

Here, then, he had arrived at what he considered the source of the
Nile — that is, the point from where it makes its exit from the Victoria Ny-
anza ; and he calculated that the whole length of the river is, thus meas-
uring from the south end of the lake, two thousand three hundred miles.

Singrular CoiiTeyances.
He and his party now returned northward, and reached Urondogani
again in August. The difficulty was next to obtain boats. The fisher-
men, finding that the strangers were to be supplied with fish by the
king's order, ran away, though the cows they had brought furnished the
travellers with food. At length five boats, composed of five planks lashed
together and caulked with rags, were forthcoming. Speke, with his
attendants, Kasora, and his followers embarked, carrying goats, dogs,
and kit, besides grain and dried meat. No one, however, knew how
many days it would take to perform the voyage.

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(578)

WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES.

679

Tall rushes grew on either side of the broad river, which had in places
a lake-like appearance. The idle crew paddled slowly, amusing them-
selves by sometimes dashing forward, and then resting, while Kasora had
the folly to attack the boats of Wanyoro he met coming up the river.

The frontier line was crossed on the 14th, but they had not proccedcc
far when they saw an enormous canoe of Kamrasi's, full of well-armed'
men, approaching them. The canoe turned, as if the people were afraid,
and the Waganda followed. At length, however, the chased canoe
turned, and the shore was soon lined with armed men, threatening them
with destruction. Another canoe now appeared. It was getting dark.
The only hope of escape seemed by retreating. Speke ordered his fleet
to keep together, promising ammunition to his men if they would fight.
The people in one boat, however, were so frightened that they allowed
her to spin round and round in the current.

Brutal Attack by Natives.

The Wanyoro were stealing on them, as they could hear, though
nothing could be seen. One of the boats kept in shore, close to the
reeds, when suddenly she was caught by grappling-hooks. The men
cried out "Help, Bana! they are killing us." Speke roared in reply:
" Go in, and the victory will be ours." When, however, three shots were
fired from the hooked boat, the Wanyoro fled, leaving one of their
number killed and one wounded, and Speke and his party were allowed
to retreat unmolested.

Speke, after proceeding up the river some distance, determined to
continue the journey by land, following the track Grant had taken.
Grant's camp was reached, and the next day a messenger arrived from
Kamrasi, saying that the king would be glad to see them, and the march
was ordered to Unyoro.

The frontier was again passed, when the country changed much for
the worse. Scanty villages, low huts, dirty-looking people clad in skins,
the plantain, sweet potato and millet forming the chief edibles, besides
goats and fo\yls. No hills, except a few scattered cones, broke the level
surface of the land, and no pretty views cheered the eye. They were
now getting to a distance from the rain-attractive influences of the Moun-
tains of the Moon, and vegetation decreased proportionately. Their first
halt was on the estate of the chief Kidjwiga. Scarcely had they been
established than a messenger page from Mtesa, with a party ol fifty
Waganda, arrived to enquire how Bana was, and to remind him of the
gun and other articles he had promised to send up from Gani.

The natives ran off as they passed through the country, believing them

- . *

680

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

to be cannibals. They supposed that the iron boxes which the porters
carried on their shoulders each contained a couple of white dwarfs, which
were allowed to fly off to eat people. They, however, gained confidence,
and soon flocked around the Englishmen's huts.

On arriving at the end of their day's march, on the 2d of September
they were told that elephants had been seen close by. Grant and Spckc
therefore, sallied forth with their guns, and found a herd of about a hun
dred, feeding on a plain of Jong grass. Speke, by stealing along under
cover of the high grass, got close to a herd, and fired at the largest. The
animals began sniffing the air with uplifted trunks, when, ascertaining by
the smell of powder that the enemy was in front of tliem, they rolled up
their trunks, and came close to the spot where he way lying under a
mound. Suddenly they stopped, catching scent of the white man, and
lifting their heads high, looked down upon him. Speke was now in a
dangerous position, for, unable to get a proper front shot at any of them,
he expected to be picked up or trodden to death. As he let fly at their
temples, they turned round and went rushing away at a much faster pace
than they came.

The explorers at length reached Khartoum, having sailed down the
Nile, and were soon at Berber.

The two travellers, whose adventures we have thus far followed, em-
barked fot England, on the 4th of June, on board tfie " Pera," where
they safely arrived, after an absence of eleven hundred and forty-six
days. , .

His friends had shortly afterwards to mourn Captain Speke's untimely
death, from his gun accidentally going off while at shooting.

Speke was the first European who saw the Victoria Nyanza, while the
adventurous and hazardous joun .y he and Grant performed together
deservedly places them in the first rank of African travellers. They also
opened up an extensive and rich district hitherto totally unknown, into
which the blessings of Christianity and commerce will soon be intro-
riuced.

CHAPTER XXVI.

ailed down the

d and forty-six

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

Kcmarkable Scenery in Central Africa — Masses of Rocky Mountains --Foliage Bright
with all the Colors of the Rainbow — Rank Growths of Rushes and Grass — Varietiei
of Animal Life — The Guinea fowl— The Sacred Ibis — The Long-legg;ed Stork
and Heron — The Wonderful Shoebill— Primeval Forests and Running Streams-
Fine Specimens of Flowers — Perpetual Moisture — The Negro's Taste fof
Honey -The Fish-eagle— Majestic Flight— An Old Bird— The Eagle Contending
for its Mate— Remarkable Claws— Turtle Doves and Golden Pheasants— Crows
and Hawks — Fairy Antelopes — Grave-looking Monkeys — Beautiful Valleys and
Hillsides — The Beautiful in Nature Marred by Human Cruelty— Cities Built by
Insects— Waves of Rolling Land — Villages of African Tribes— Stanley's Descrip-
tion of Tanganyika— Remarkable Lake — Lovely Landscape — A Native Bird —
Famous Ibis — A Feathered Idol — Stanley's Glowing Description of Tropical
Scenery — Desert of Sahara — Terrific Sand Storms— Whirlwinds of Dust— Fire
in the Air— Extraordinary Storm Pillars— Remarkable Reptile Tribes— The
Curious Gekko— Brilliant Insects— The Traveller's Pests — Remarkable Trees
and Plants— The Wild Ox— The Wild Pig— Ten Kinds of Antelopes— Elegant
Animals— Swift Punishment — Famous Gorilla — Inveterate Thieves — Quick Re-
treat — The Orang-outang — Arms Longer Than Legs — Formidable Foe— Pursuit
of the Orang-outang — Swinging Easily from Tree to Tree — Expert Climber —
Hiding Among the Leaves — The Young Orang — A Motherly Goat— Clever
Monkey — Saucy Pet— A Little Thief— An Animal Very Human.

TANLEY gives the following description of the scenery of Central
Africa : Unyamwezi is a wide undulating table-land, sinking west-
ward toward Tanganyika. Any one taking a bird's-eye view of
the land would perceive forests, a purple-hued carpet of foliage,
broken here and there by barren plains and open glades, extending
toward every quarter of the heavens. Here and there rise mass'^s of
rocky mountains, towering like blunt cupolas above the gentle undula-
tions of the land, on to the distant horizon. Standing upon any pro-
jecting point, a scene never before witnessed meets the view. Nothing
picturesque can be seen ; the landscape may be called prosaic and
monotonous ; but it is in this very overwhelming, apparently endless
monotony that its sublimity lies.

The foliage is bright with all the colors of the prism ; but as the
woods retreat towards the far distance, a silent mystical vapor enfolds
them, and bathes them first in pale, and then in dark blue, until they are
lost Jn the distance. But near the lake all is busy life. The shore

: ,i

582

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

immediately adjoining the Lake of Ugogo is formed by a mofass of at
least sixty feet wide, and extending on every side. It is an impenetrable
tangle of luxuriant sedge jind rushes, where the unwieldy hippopotamus,
going his nightly rounds, has left his watery footsteps imprinted in the
swamp. Numerous buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, boars, kudu antelopes
and other animals come here at nightfall to quench their thirst.

The shores and surface of the lake are alive with an amazing number
of aquatic birds — black swans, ducks, sacred ibises, cranes, and pelicans ;
high overhead, watchful for their prey, hover kites and fish eagles ; while
the shore is vocal with the loud call of the guinea-fowl, the hoarse scream
of the toucan, the cooing of the pigeons, the hoot of the owl mingling
with the cry of the snipe and wild fowl rising from the long grass by the
water's edge. These shores are also the paradise of the long legged
stork and the heron, the saddle stork, the marabout, an ugly bird, in
spite of its wonderful and costly feathers, the giant heron, while the
curious stilt-bird, or shoebill, of Africa, one of the most singular birds
of the globe, inhabits the more northern marshlands, vast impenetrable
morasses of the White Nile, and some of its tributaries. This bird has a
bulky body, a thick neck, a large head and a curiously formed bill, not
unlike a clumsy wooden shoe. Its color is an ashy gray, with jet black
wing feathers.

The shoebill is the giant of the wading birds and is found in pairs or
.smaller societies as remote as possible from human habitations, mostly in
the impenetrable swamps of the White Nile and some of its tributaries.
At the approach of man it flies away, and when frightened by shots it
rises to a great altitude and never returns to its swamps as long as there
is ai\y suspicion of dafiger. This bird selects for. its breeding place a
small elevation in the reeds, either immediately on the border of the
water or in the swamp, mostly where surrounding water renders an
approach difficult.

Wonderful Luxuriance.

The flora concentrates all its luxuriance in the first months of the rainy
season, leaving the autumn, when the grass of the steppes is withered, to
fare less richly. The .scenery varies much less than in the most mo-
notonous districts of our own country, but it has nevertheless its alter-
nation of clustering groves of bushes, its clearings with noble trees more
than thirty or forty feet in height, its luxuriant undergrowth broken by
grassy reaches or copses of tall shrubs.

Palms play a subordinate part in this scenery ; the fan palms are found
clustered together in groves ; -and in the marshy steppes grows the

mofass of at

impenetrable
lippopotamus,
)rinted in the
du antelopes,
irst.
izing number

and pelicans ;
eagles; while
hoarse scream
owl mingling
r grass by the
e long -legged

ugly bird, in
ron, while the
singular birds

impenetrable
'his bird has a
rmed bill, not
vith jet black

nd in pairs or
ons, mostly in
ts tributaries,
d by shots it

long as there
eding place a

3order of the
renders an

is of the rainy
s withered, to
le most mo-
ess its altcr-
)le trees more
h broken by

ms are found
;s grows the

-1 :^:^;.^~-.:*aKH;=4fe~-a;r>^i^A'-i\-^^SR/'v-V*^ ^_'

STRANGE AFRICAN SHOEBILL.

t ''.'

f588)

684

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

pricdy date, perhaps the primitive type of the date palm. Then come
the leather-leaved fig trees of every kind, and among them the grandest
monuments of African vegetation, the sycamores, together with large-
leaved tamarinds.

. Very characteristic of the country are the patches of primeval forests,
watered by running streams, and knov/n by the name of galleries. The
soil is unusually rich in springs of water, which keep up a perpetual
overflow of the brooks ; and while in the northern districts the rivers
have to find their way across open lowlands where the volume of water
soon diminishes, and is lost in the parched earth, the country here is like
a well-filled sponge. The result of this abundant moisture is that the
valleys and fissures of the earth through which the water flows, whether
in the form of little brooks and streamlets, or of great rivers, are clothed
with all the majesty of a tropical forest ; while an open park-like glade,,
the chief feature of which appears at the first glance to be the amazing
size of its foliage, fills up the higher-lying spaces between the water-
courses and the galleries. The number of distinct types of trees, and
the variety of forms among the undergrowth, is very great. Trees with;
large trunks, whose height throws into the shade all the previously seem
specimens of the Nile flora, not excluding the palms of Egypt, are here
found in serried ranks, without a break, and beneath their shelter the
less imposing platforms are arranged in terraces.

Magnificent Forests.

In the interior of these virgin forests, leafy corridors, rivalling the
temple walls of Egypt, lie veiled in deep perpetual shadow, and are
spanned by a triple roof of foliage, rising vault above vault. Seen from
without, the galleries appear like an impenetrable wall of the densest
leafage, while from within corridors of foliage open out in every direction
beneath the columns of the tree stems, and are filled with the murmuring
voice of springs and water-courses.

The average height of the roof of leaves measures from seventy-five to
ninety feet; but very often these galleries, seen from without, by no
means produce the imposing effect which is felt from within in lool:ing up
from the depth cf the valley or the water-side ; because in many places
the depression of land or water which makes up the gallery or tunnel-like
character of the scene scarcely allows half of the forest to rise above th:
level ground, many galleries being entirely sunk in the depression
Great tree trunks, thickly overgrown with wild pepper, rise from the
depths, and support wide-spreading branches draped with lichens and
mosses, above which towers the remarkably fine tree called the elephant's

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

585:

ear, which grows in rich abundance. High up on the branches are seen
the very large nests built by the " tree-termite."

Other tree stems, long since dead, serve as supports for colossal vineSj
and with their impenetrable festoons form bowers as large as houses, in
which perpetual darkness reigns. From the depths of the brushwood
gleam flame-red blossoms, and rivalling them in splendor are seen tall
shrubs bearing large orange bell flowers. The eyes may roam in every
direction, and meet with nothing but this unbroken impenetrable greenery.
There where the narrow pathways wind along, partly through and partly
under the tangle of shrub and bush ascending the valley wall, bare roots
of trees form the supports which hold the loose friable earth together.
Mouldering trunks, covered with thick mosses, are met with at every
step, and make our advance through these waves of massive greenery
anything but easy. The air we breathe is no longer that of the free sun-
lit steppe, or of the cool leafy paths without; it is the heavy, humid
atmosph< re of our green-houses. There prevails a constant moisture,
produced by the breath of the woods itself, and which it is impossible to
escape.

A Taste for Honey.

The Negroes belonging to the caravan, while prowling through the
backwoods in search of anything eatable, lighted here upon an important
discovery; their ciy of triumph guided us to the place where they stood
clustered together round a tree, very busy with their firebrands. Tbey
had discover J in the hollow stem a large quantity of honey, and were
preparing to secure their treasure with great indifference to the results of
their attack. Honey, wax, and even the little bodies of the honey-
makers slain in the combat, were swallowed down by the Negroes with-
out any distinction.

One of the birds peculiar to some parts of Central Africa, and men-
tioned by Stanley, is the fish-eagle. The best known and largest is the
white-headed eagle. The length is about three feet, and the extent of
wings seven feet ; the female is somewhat larger. Its usual food is fish,
but it cats the flesh of other animals, when it can get it and often seizes
quadrupeds and birds of inferior flight, and when pressed by hunger will
feed on carrion. The flight of this bird is very majestic ; it sails along
with extended wings and can ascend until it disapperrs from view, with-
out any apparent motion of the wings or tail ; and Irom the greatest
height it descends with a rapidity, which can scarcely be followed by the
eye. The power of wing is not more remarkable than the consummate
skill with which the strong pinions are made to out the air.

■I

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FISH-EAGLES CONTENDING FOR A PRIZE.

(586)

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

68Y

These birds live to a great age. They are generally seen in pairs and
the union seems to last for life. The attachment of the old birds to their
young is very great. The breeding season commences about March and
though each male has but one mate during its entire life, many and fierce
are the battles, which arise about the possession of these spouses. It is
a singular circumstance in the formation of this bird that the outer toe
turns easily backward, so as on occasion to have two of the toes forward
land two backward, and it has a much larger claw than the inner one.
This, and the roughness of the whole foot underneath, are well adapted
for the securing of its prey. During the spring and summer months the
osprey is frequently seen hovering over the rivers for minutes without
visible change of place. It then suddenly darts down and plunges into
the water, whence it seldom rises again without a fish in its talons. When
it rises in the air it shakes off the water and pursues its way towards the
woods.

In one part of his first expedition, Stanley refers to the attractive views
which greeted him on every side.

Forest-clad Slopes aud Beautiful Valleys.
Our traveller was now fairly in the midst of African scenes. The
wilderness was broken only by the little villages which everv now and
then appeared peeping through the crevices of their wonderful fortresses
of acacia, and the people were fully up to the average in genuine African
characteristics.

Crossing the Ungerengeri, a beautiful river with a broad fertile valley,
and passing through the narrow belt of country which is all that is left
to the warlike remnants of the once powerful Wakami tribe, the
intrepid traveller entered the territory of the Wadoe, a people full
of traditions, who have always defended themselves bravely against
the encroachments of neighbors and the invasions of marauders. The
region they inhabit might well have been guarded by them with jealous
courage.

Speaking of it, Mr. Stanley says : It is in appearance amongst the most
picturesque countries between the coast and Unyanyembe. Great cones
shoot upward above the everlasting forests, tipped by the light fleecy
clouds, through which the warm glowing sun darts its rays, bathing the
whole in a quickening radiance which brings out those globes of foliage
that rise in tier after tier along the hill-sides in rich and varied hues
which would mock the most ambitious painter's, skill. From the wind-
ing paths along the crest of ridges the traveller may look down over
forest-clad slopes into the deep valleys, and across to other slopes as

i> 9

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.1. .18

p i i

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^ff

LIFE AND METAMORPHOSIS OF THE DRAGON-FLY. a. — THE PERFECT

INSECT. d. — THK INSECT CASTING OFF ITS WORN-OUT

nymph's SKIN. C d. — LARViE AND NYMPHS.

(588)

> I

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

589

rgayly clad, and other ridges where deep concentric folds tempt him to

curious wanderings by thei;; beauty and mystery and grandeur. But

those lovely glades and queenly hills told saddest stories of cruel deeds

and wrongs irreparable. It is the old story: envious evil eagerly

'nvades with its polluting presence those sacred spots where all is

loveliest ; infernal malice mars with strange delight what is beautiful and

pure.

Cities Built by Insects.

Further on the caravan passed through the thin forests adorned with
myriads of marvellous ant-hills, those wonderful specimens of engineer-
ing talent and architectural capacity, those cunningly contrived, model
cities, with which the tiny denizens of African wilds astonish the traveller
continually ; and on across plains dotted with artificial-looking cones and
flat-topped, isolated mountains, and through marshy ravines, where every
unlucky step insured a bath in Stygian ooze — the various scenes of south-
ern Ukonongo —

" Where the thoriy brake and thicket
Densely fill the interspace
Of the trees, through whose thick branches
Never sunshine lights the place" —

the abode of lions and leopards and elephants and wild boars, one ol
those splendid parks of the wilderness where majestic forests and
jungles, and lawn-like glades, and reedy brakes and perilous chasms
all unite to form that climax of wildness and beauty, " the hunter's
paradise." It was just the place to arouse all the Nimrod spirit a man
possesses, and the two days of rest were turned to good account by
Mr. Stanley in testing the virtue of his fine rifles on the masters of the
domain.

The surface stratum of the country is clay, overlying the sandstone,
based upon various granites, which in some places crop out, picturesquely
disposed in blocks and boulders and huge domes and lumpy masses ;
ironstone is met with at a depth varying from five to twelve feet, and
bits of coarse ore have been found in Unyanyembe by digging not more
than four feet in a chance spot.

«* Waves of RoJlingr Land.»»

During the rains the grass conceals the soil, but in the dry seasons the
Jaiid is gray, lighted up by golden stubbles, and dotted with wind-dis-
torted trees, shallow swamps of emerald grass, and wide streets of dark
mud. Dwarfed stumps and charred " black jacks " deform the fields,
which are sometimes ditched or hedged in, whilst a thin forest of para-
chute-shaped thorns diversifies the w^ves of rolling land and earth hills.

ill

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690

WOKDERS OF THE TROPICS.

spotted with sunburnt stone. The reclaimed tracts and clearings are
divided from one another by strips of prim«val jungle, varying from two
to twelve miles in length, and, as in other parts of Africa, the country is
dotted with " fairy mounts " — dwarf mounds — the ancient sites of tree.'-
now crumbled to dust, and the debris of insect architecture. Villages, the
glory of all African tribes, are seen at short intervals rising only a little
above their impervious walls of lustrous green milk-bush, with its coral-
shaped arms, variegating the well-hoed plains ; whilst in the pasture
lands herds of many-colored cattle, plump, round-barrelled and high
humped, like Indian breeds, and mingled flocks of goats and sheep,
dispersed over the landscape, suggest ideas of barbarous comfort and
plenty.

It is astonishing what luxury is conveyed into the heart of Africa by
Arab merchant-princes. The fertile plain about their villages, kept in
the highest state of cultivation, yields marvellous abundance and endless
variety of vegetables, and supports vast herds of cattle, and sheep and
goats innumerable; while just above the houses the orange, lemon,
papaws and mangoes may be seen thriving finely.

Add to these the tea, coffee, sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine, brandy,
biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths as they need for their
own use, brought from the coast every year by their slaves ; associate
these with a wealth of Persian carpets, most luxurious bedding, complete
services of silver for tea and coffee, with magnificently carved dishes of
tinned copper and brass lavers ; and we have a catalogue out of which
our imagination produces pictures of luxury that, amid the wildness and
rudeness of that barbarous land, seem more like the magician's work
than tangible realities, which await the worn-out traveller across six hun-
dred miles of plains and mountains and rivers and swamps, where a suc-
cession of naked, staring, menacing savages throng the path in wonder
at a white face.

A further description of some of the tropical birds mentioned by
Stanley will prove of interest to the reader who wishes to obtain a cor-
rect idea of the wonders abounding in Africa.

A Native Bird.

Guinea-hens are peculiar to Africa, where they frequent woods on the
banks of rivers, in large flocks. They feed on grains, grasshoppers ant'
other insects. When alarmed they attempt to escape by running, rather
than by flight. The common guinea-hen is slate colored, covered all
over with round white spots and is about the size of the common fowl.
They are very noisy and troublesome, always quarreling with the other

clearings are
ng from two
e country is
sites of treer
Villages, thf
only a little
ith its coral-

the pasture
d and high

and sheep,
comfort and

of Africa by
Lges, kept in
: and endless
d sheep and
inge, lemon,

vine, brandy,
ped for their
:s; associate
ng, complete
ed dishes of
out of which
vildness and
ician's work
OSS six hun-
ivhere a suc-
h in wonder

entioned by
btain a cor-

oods on the
loppers anc*
ning, rather
covered all
mmon fowl,
th the other

i *M

(»1)

J :<;

m ^ i

m ^

692

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

IfV.

inmates of tlie poultry yard, and they are h.u d to raise from the delicacy
of the young and their liability to disease.

Their flesh is of fine flavor and their eggs are excellent. They arc
great feeders, requiring to be fed beyond what they can pick up by theiu-
sclves, and are apt to injure tender buds and flowers. The crested guinca-
iowl or pintado has a crest of black feathers and the body black with blue
spots ; the mitred pintado has the head surmounted by a conical helmet
and is black, white spotted.

The four species of pintado hitherto known are all natives of Africa and
of islands adjacent to the African coast. Their mode of feeding is similar
to that of the domestic poultry. They scrape the ground with their feet
in search of insects, worms or seeds. The females lay and hatch their
eggs nearly in the same manner as the common hens. The eggs, how-
ever, are smalici- and have a haider shell. Buflbn states that there is a
remarkable difference between the eggs of the domestic guinea-fowls and
those which are wild; the latter being marked with small round spots,
like those on the plumage of the birds, and the former being, when first
laid, of a quite bright red and afterwards of the faint color of the dried
rose.

The young birds, for sometime after they come into the world, are des-
titute of the helmet or callous protuberance, which is so conspicuous on
the heads of the old ones. The guinea-fowl is a restless and clamorous
bird. During the night it perches on high places and if disturbed,
-alarms every animal within hearing by its cry. These birds delight in
rolling themselves in the dust for the purpose of ridding themselves of
insects.

The Famous Ibis.

This is another African bird. There are about half a dozen species of
this wading bird, including three in the United States. The red or
scarlet ibis is about twenty-eight inches long, its bill six and one-half
inches, and the extent of its wings a little over three feet. This bird,
whose color is a uniform bright scarlet, is found in South America and
the West Indies. The white ibis, or white curlew, whose plumage is
ipure white, is very common in the Southern Atlantic and Gulf States
occasionally straggling as far north as New Jersey. Its flesh has a verj
fishy taste and is rarely eaten except by the Indians.

The glossy ibis, a smaller species, is about twenty-one inches long
Its general color is chestnut-brown, with the back and top of head
■metallic green, glossed with purple. It exists in great numbers in
Alexicc and has been found as far north as Massachusetts. Of this genus

n the delicacy

nt. They are
k up by them-
rested guinca-
)lackwith blue
conical helmet

3 of Africa and
iding is similar
with their feet
nd hatch their
'he eggs, how-
that there is a
linea-fowls and
ill round spots,
iing, when first
or of the dried

world, are des-
ponspicuous on
ind clamorous
d if disturbed,
rds delight in
themselves of

)zen species of
The red or
c and one-half
=t. This bird,
America and
ise plumage is
d Gulf States
esh has a verj

inches long.
1 top of head
t numbers in

Of this genus

imm^Mmmmam

^->

:^'l!

BEAUTIFUL PHEASANT.
88

(598>

■< i«

694

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

il i

■ 'i ''.'

there are about twenty species found in the warmer parts of Africa, Asia
and South America, one of which is the Sacred Ibis of the Egyptians.
It is about as large as a domestic fowl, and is found throughout Northern
Africa.

This bird, which was reared in the temples of ancient Egypt and wa?
embalmed, frequents overflowed lands and dry plains and feeds on frogi
and small aquatic lizards. It is a migratory bird, appearing simulta*
neously with the rise of the Nile and departing as the inundation
subsides. It is a remarkable fact, that the ibis does not visit Egypt
regularly any more as of old, breeding in the Soudan. As soon as it
arrives there it takes possession of its well-selected breeding places, from
which it undertakes excursions in search of prey. It is not afraid of the
natives and can often be seen among the cattle herds picking up a grass-
hopper here and a frog or lizard there. Dr. Brehm met, on his travels
up the Blue Nile, so many of this beautiful bird, that he was able to kill
twenty of them within two days. The female lays three to four white
eggs of the size of duck eggs. The bird is easily domesticated and is
found in many zoological gardens of Europe and America.

A Feathered Idol.

In Egypt the ibis was regarded with great veneration by the ancients,
who kept them in their temples, and embalmed them after their death;
thousands of their remains are still found in the burial places amid the
ruins of ancient Egypt. Various reasons have been given for this cus-
tom, some saying that the ibis destroyed the noxious serpents which
were so numerous in that country ; others that there was supposed to be
some analogy between the plumage of the bird and one of the phases of
the moon; while a third opinion is that the birds were regarded with
favor, because, their annual migration into Egypt taking place at the
period of thd rising of the Nile, they were considered as the harbingers
of that event.

Stanley's glowing descriptions of tropical scenery find a striking con-
trast of the account given of the African desert, and the .perils which
often overtake travellers who attempt to cross it.

The plain of Sahara is the gieat typical desert. Its name comes from
an Arabic word, which means the plain. Not that the great desert is by
any means an unbroken plain, or destitute of great variety in its physica.
characteristics. The true sandy desert occupies but a relatively small
portion of the space marked upon our maps as the desert of Sahara; and
even upon the surface of this " true " desert the distribution of sand is
very unequal The stratum of the sand in some parts is so thin that the

^^J.

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

595

underlying limestone is visible through it. The sandy region attains its
greatest extent in the Libyan desert, and masses of sand still drift in
from the Mediterranean, to settle down upon a bed which in a recent
period was buried beneath the waves of the sea. These sand floods
extend westward to Tripoli. Near that town the sandy stretches arc
varied by plantations of palm trees and fields of corn ; true deserts of
yellow sand, passing like a yellow ribbon from west to east, between fields^
wheat and barley.

Terrific Sand-storms.

The western Mongolian desert contains plains of sand perfectly corres-
ponding with those of the Sahara and the Arabian desert. Mounds of
loose sand are blown together and scattered again by the wind : a mere
breeeze is enough to wipe out all trace of a long caravan crossing the
waste. The sand is so extremely fine and light, that in sudden storms
of wind trenches of thirty or forty feet deep are hollowed out, and
swelling waves are raised like those of the Libyan desert, making the
journey tedious and difficult to the camels as they cross the shifting
plain.

It is true that large stretches of the plain of Sahara arc covered by
wavesof sand, which were once sandy bars and dykes of the .sea; but the
whole desert is by no means the product of the ocean alone. Very much ,
of the sand is of local origin, formed from the soil of the desert plain hy
the sudden changes of temperature and the action of the wind There
are many such centres of sand radiation, and the mechanically powdered
fragments of rock are found in every phase of transition from crumbled
stone to fine drift-sand. The ground above Khartoum, to the west
of the Nile, consists partly of rose-colored granite, and the whole
surface of the rifted slope of rock is bestrewn with fragments of different
sizes.

Dust whirlwinds of considerable size are sometimes observed in the
Russian steppes ; but the best known phenomena of this kind are the
high sand piHars of Sahara. Even in Australia these rotary dust pillars
are met with, generally being seen upon shadowless plains. It is thought
that these Australian whirlwinds are the channels which carry the heated
air from the ground to the higher strata.

Fiery Wind.

Instead of the rolling waves and cool breezes of the sea, this funereal
region only gives out burning gusts, scorching blasts which seem to issue
from the gates of hell ; these are the simoon or poison-wind, as the word
signifies in Arab. The camel-driver knows this formidable enemy, and

596

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

i^'^i m

. 1

' '.•

♦:

so soon as he sees it looming in the horizon, he raises his hands to
heaven, and implores Allah ; the camels themselves seem terrified at its
approach. A veil of reddish-black invades the gleaming sky, and very
soon a terribi.. and burning wind rises, bearing clouds of fine impalpable
sand, which severely irritates the eyes and throat.

The camels squat down and refuse to move, and the travellers have nc
chance of safety except by making a rampart of the bodies of their beasts,
and covering their heads so as to protect themselves against this scourge.
Entire caravans have sometimes perished in these sand-storms ; it was
one of them that buried the army of Cambyses when it was traversing
the desert.

Camp, in his charming work on the Nile, describes in the following
terms one of these desert tempests. It comes towards one, he says,
growing, spreading, and advancing as if on wheels. Its overhanging
summit is of a brick color, its base deep red and almost black. In pro-
portion as it approaches it drives before it burning effluvia, like the breath
of a lime-kiln. Before it reaches us we are covered with its shadow.
The sound it makes is like that of a wind passing through a pine-forest.
So soon as we are in the midst of this hurricane the camels halt, turn
their backs, throw themselves down, and lay their heads upon the sand,
After the cloud of dust comes a rain of imperceptible stones, violently
hurled about by the wind, and which, if it lasted long, would quickly flay
the ^kin from those parts of the body unprotected by the clothes. This
lasted five or six minutes, and was frightful. Then the sky became clear
again, and gave the same feeling of sudden change to the eye as a light
suddenly brought into a dark place.

Extraorcliiiary Storm Pillars.

Whirlwinds are generally preceded by a sultry, oppressive air; some-
times by absolute calm ; but the state of the wind never appears clearly
connected with the phenomena. The storm pillars vary greatly in form
the sand columns being generally funnel-shaped, and the water-spouts
like a pipe surrounded at the base by whirling vapors and foaming water
The height and diameter are also variable ; some of the highest have
been estimated at 6,ooo feet. In many cases the damage caused by the
water is of such a kind as to show that there has been an influx of air
from every side toward the base of the column.

But hurricanes, cyclones, and all the rush and roar of the elements,
are not more wonderful than the curious forms of animal and insect life
abounding in the Dark Continent.

The reptile tribe is represented here by some of its most distinguished

his hands to
srrified at its
ky, and very
le impalpable

Hers have nc
" their beasts^
this scourge,
)rms ; it was
as traversing

the following
)ne, he says,
overhanging
ick. In pro-
ike the breath
I its shadow,
a pine-forest,
lels halt, turn
3on the sand,
nes, violently
i quickly flay
othes. This
Decame clear
jye as a light

e air ; some-
pears clearly
;atly in form
water-spouts
aming water
lighest have
aused by the
influx of air

le elements,
d insect life

istinguished

i K

;f 4

(597)

698

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

r4Pi ! t

im iih i

members. The monitor-lizard crawls along the river banks ; the moun-
tain-monitor frequents the desert; a beautiful turtle lives in the Nile.
Along the furrows and trenches, nimble bright-colored lizards bask in
the sun, and the slippery skink burrows in the wall of almost every
house. Along the walls of the houses dart and glide the nocturnal little
gekkoes, the greedy but otherwise inoffensive "fathers of leprosy.'
Here and there upon the trees is seen the changeful play of color of the
familiar chameleon, while other reptiles, often brightly-colored, and some
of them more than a yard long, love the desert solitudes. Egypt was
always famous as the land of snakes. It has about twenty varieties,
poisonous and non-poisonous. As in the days of Moses, so in our own
times, there are a large number of snake charmers; the snakes which
they use in their performances, especially the once sacred viper, urau
snake, and the Egyptian spectacle snake, are always first deprived of
their fangs. The snake most ^ equently depicted by the ancients is the
very deadly and dangerous horned viper.

Brilliant Insects.

In the great insect world Africa has many forms which are known in
other parts of the world. Day butterflies are scarce, while moths are
more abundant. The beetles arc not exactly numerous, but among them
are some very fine specimens of brilliant beetles, sand beetles, and derm-
estes. The commonest are the blackbeetles, but the best known of all is
the sacred scarabee beetle of Egy^t, which is so frequently represented
upon monuments and gems.

A characteristic scene of animal life, often to be observed both in Cen-
tral and South Africa, are the manoeuvres of a company of these droll
little creatures busily eniployed rolling up manure into globes as large as
a walnut, pushing and thrusting each other aside until the great business
is completed, and then, with their heads bent down to the earth, rolling
away the work of their feet to bury it in a convenient place. The beetle
rolls up these balls to feed its young, and deposits its eggs in them. In
the theological symbolism of the ancient Egyptians, these " pills " are
compared to the substance of which the world was formed, and which
was also represented as globular. The beetle itself is looked upon as tlie
principle of light and creative force, which, in union with the sun, infuses
(into matter the germs of light and creation, as the beetle deposits its eggs
in the ball. The deity Ptah (that is, the forming and impelling force)
then gives to these geims their form, and creates the heavens and the
earth.

The wasp tribe is also represented by many fine and large varieties.

I. It

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

599

; ; the moun-
in the Nile.
jards bask in
almost every
octurnal little
of leprosy.'
[ color of the
red, and some

• I'^gypt ^^''^•^
snty varieties,

so in our own

snakes which

:d viper, urau

;t deprived of

mcients is the

are known in
hile moths are
it among them
ties, and derm-
<nown of all is
y represented

both in Cen-
of these droll
Des as large as
great business
ea^t'ii, rolling
. The beetle
s in them. In
se "pills" are
ed, and which
cd upon as tiie
he sun, infuses
posits its eggs
ipelling force)
avens and the

arge varieties.

The bee is nearly akin to our own, and has often been introduced into
other countries. Ants, locusts, and cockroaches are at times great pests.
The common house-fly is nowhere more bold and importunate, and sue-
<:eeds only too completely in rendering an otherwise pleasant life most

AFRICAN GEKKO OR WALL-LIZARD.

disagreeable. The stinging gnat is just as bad, and its unceasing hum is
almost more calculated to drive a new-comer to despair than its painful,
burning sting.

At certain times its worm-like larvae abound in all standing waters,
swarm in the drinking water, which can only be drunk when strained

■M

' n

»t I

ii n

W" '

' ('-

» I

600

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

through a cloth, or, as is the usual practice with the poorer classes,
through the coat-sleeve held between the pitcher and the lips. Vermin
are only too abundantly represented ; fleas, bugs, and lice of every kind
abound, besides scorpions, tarantulas, centipedes, and leeches, and those
implacable tormentors of animals, horse-flics and gnats. The monoto
nous character of the whole country is perceptible throughout its flora
and fauna, for in almost every class of the animal world the number or
varieties is comparatively small.

Brambles and Donkeys.

We now turn our attention to the country lying eastward toward the
Red Sea. The path lies through a desert, which is not, however, wholly
destitute of vegetation; where, after abundant rain, the valleys are trans-
formed into verdant pasture lands. The vegetation is most abundant from
February to April, but tiie almost tropical heat destroys one plant after
another, leaving only the more deeply rooted growths for the summer
months. The plateau-like western portion of the desert resembles, both
in its appearance and vegetation, the Libyan desert, and is very poor in
vegetable life. By far the most common plant of these regions is the
desert bramble, a half-shrub, with flowers like its kindred plant, the
radish ; it is this plant especially which, when seen from afar, gives to the
valley the appearance of green meadow-land.

The wise Egyptian donkey, nothwithstanding the preference shown by
his European kindred for thistles, is prudent enough to keep at a respect-
ful distance from this plant, which the hard-mouthed dromedary can eat
with great relish ; chewing the prickly masses without losing one drop of
blood ; he even swallows with delight the thorns of the acacia. In many
places a plant resembling broom grows freely ; it is a long- branched,
almost leafless bush, much liked by camels.

Shadowy groves of tamarisk, frequented by many birds and insects,
often surprise us in the midst of the most barren solitudes ; and wherever
the soil has received any moisture, willows and rushes refresh the eye of
the traveller. Cassia ranks high among the list of medicinal plants found
in the desert, and colocynth, with its creeping cucumber-like stems, filled
with fruit resembling our apple, first green and then turning yellow, is
found along all the outskirts of the valleys. The natives have a whole-
some awe of the drastic remedy, and scarcely ever touch the gourd fruit;
while the Bedouins remove the inside pith and seeds, and fill it with milk,
to take it next day as a remedy.

' The date palm, it is true, is seldom seen, and then only in a half-wild
state ; but the fig tree is found laden with fruits. The fruit of the capet

•rer classes,
>s. Vermin

every kind
1, and those
he monoto-
out its flora

number or

toward the
ever, wholly
/s are trans-
(undant from
2 plant after
the summer
embles, both
i^ery poor in
jgions is the
d plant, the
, gives to the

ce shown by
at a respect-

dary can eat
one drop of
In many
g- branched,

la,

and insects,
nd wherever
1 the eye of
plants found
stems, filled
g yellow, is
ave a whole-
gourd fruit;
it with milk,

1 a half-wild
d{ the caper

H^' i

GIGANTIC BEETLE.

(601)

<602

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

■tree tastes like an odd mixture of sugar and mustard ; and the traveller
is refreshed by the pleasant acid of the sorrel, the berries of ,the lycium,
a thorny plant. The coast flora of the desert is very peculiar, and depends
upon the salt vapors rising from the sea. The dense woods of the shore
are famous in travellers' descriptions ; they stand out in the sea itself, and
are only dry at low tide. Ships are laden with its wood, which is used
for fuel, and many camels live entirely on its great laurel-like leaves. The
coast is covered in some places to great distances by saltpetre shrubs,
.and by many other saline plants.

The tra\'eller who is forced to provide himself with food by his rifle in
the chase devotes his attention chiefly to the wild oxen, wild pigs, and
-different kinds of antelopes which provide him with eatable food when
there are no tame creatures, such as goats, sheep, fowl, and fish, to be
inet with. The latter case, however, is seldom experienced, for domestic
animals are sure to be found wherever there are Negro settlements.

The wild ox is the same as the short-horned breed, also found in
East Africa. The wild pig, which is also found, and frequently makes its
-appearance in herds, is known as the long-eared pig. Its color is a dark
yellowish red. The flesh is pleasant as food, and is liked also by Negroes.
The wild pigs are generally caught by the help of spears and pits dug to
•ensnare them. These traps make certain parts of the woods rather dan-
gerous to walk in, and the traveller has to submit blindly to his guides,
-who are taken from the adjoining neighborhood, and who know exactly
-where such traps are laid. In the east and the south, this " most beauti-
ful of all possible pigs " is replaced by the bush pig, while the whole of
Central Africa is the home of the clumsiest and ugliest of all known bristly
.animals, the wart-hog.

Elegrant Animals.

There are at least ten kinds of antelopes in the forests of Gaboon and
the district of the Ogowe, from the elegant little dwarf antelope, which
;stands scarcely twenty inches high, to the white-striped antelope of Bango,
which reaches the size of a fallow deer. Large herds of these animals,
•which are so frequently found in the open plateaus of Central Africa, are
naturally unknown in the dense woods of the western part of the con
tinent. From the exceptional character of the animals, their extreme
shyness and speed, they are very hard to capture in the chase, and even
the Negroes generally catch them only in pits. Indeed, a successful
hunt, with a large amount of booty, is a very rare occurrence. Although
the woods are filled with game, the traveller seldom comes across them,
and it is a mistaken notion to imagine that one has but to enter the high

STANLEY S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

G03

-woods of the Tropics, and fire away right and left, in order to bring home
an abundance of food.

Of the larger beasts of prey, the leopard is represented ; it is met with
all along the west coast, and is erroneously termed a tiger. It is very
abundant in certain districts, and particularly dangerous to the herds oi
goats and flocks of sheep belonging to the factors and the Negroes ;
indeed, it sometimes attacks men. When our traveller was spending a
few days in a village of Banschaka, it happened that a woman who went
late at night to a well about half a mile from the huts did not return, and
on the following day evident traces of the disaster were discovered. It
was, as usual, firmly believed among all tne Negroes of the west coast,
that the event was not in the natural order of things, but that some one
in the village, transformed into a leopard, had devoured the woman.

Swift Punishment.
The family of the unhappy woman went to the priest and magician of
the place, who soon discovered the culprit, and sentenced him to eat the
poisonous bark of a tree, which paralyzes the action of the heart, and
occasions certain death if it is not speedily expelled from the system.

It may be readily imagined that accidents frequently occur in the great
African hunts, as it is quite impossible to speculate upon the species of
animals that may be driven into the net. One day a native was suddenly
.attacked and was killed by a leopard within a mile of my station.
The grass had been fired, and the animals instinctively knew that they
v/ere pursued.

The man went to drink at a stream close to some high bushes, v/hen a
leopard pounced upon him without the slightest warning. A native who
was close to the spot rushed up to the rescue, and threw his spear with
such dexterity that he struck the leopard through the neck while it had
the man in its mouth, killing it upon the spot. The man was immedi-
ately broughtto me, but the lungs were lacerated, and he died during the
night.

On another occasion five men were wounded (two fatally) by a lioness,
whiwh fought so gallantly that she at length escaped from her assailants
with two spears in her body. I was not present on that occasion, but I
have frequently admired the pluck of the natives, who attack every
animal with the simple hunting-spear, which of course necessitates a close
approach.

The Negroes eat everything in the shape of flesh, except the feline
beasts of prey. Some of the smaller kinds of felines are as dangerous
to poultry as are the large species of falcons and eagles. With resppct

"Kf

Ss Ib^

Iji

(604)

Ai7'5

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

605

to several kinds of flesh which are considered by us to be uneatable, we
may say that different kinds of monkeys, porcupines, large rats, croco-
diles, and other creatures, are used for food. It is very singular that the
Negroes do not understand the milking of their domestic animals, and
were above measure astonished when the explorers' servants milked the
goats, and gave the milk to their master ; and the Negroes often sur-
rounded him in crowds to see him eat hens' eggs, a diet quite new to
them, although they ate numbers of the large round eggs of the turtle,
and the still larger crocodile eggs.

Mosquitoes abound everywhere ; and next to them ranks an insect
which has only been known in Africa during the last ten years — the sand
flea, which is said to have been brought by the crew of a Brazilian ship
v'ho were su^er'ng from them. They multiplied with ncrediblc rapidity.
The animalculae enter the skin beneath the toe-nails, where they lay a
bag of eggs as large as a pea ; and the difficulty is to remove this bag
without breaking it. If this is done, the wound soon heals ; but if not^
painful sores are the result, and the process of healing s very slow.
Another interesting insect is the giant beetle, Goliath, an insect measur-
ing nearly four inches. This, black velvety beetle, marked with white on
its upper side, is at heme throughout all Africa ; and, with its kindred
types, forms one of the principal treasures of our collections, being so
much in request that twenty-five dollars is paid for a fine specimen.

The Famous Gorilla.

The most interesting animals of these countries are beyond all doubt
the gorilla and the chimpanzee. The gorilla is the largest of the man-
like apes, an animal rather shorter, but considerably more broad-
shouldered than a strong man. Although the gorilla was mentioned
more than 2,000 years ago, by Hanno, the commander of a Carthaginian
fleet, it is even now very imperfectly known. If the statements respect-
ing the strength and savageness of the gorilla are only half true, there is
little prospect of ever being able to bring over full-grown specimens to
America ; and the young gorilla presented to the zoological garden of
Berlin unfortunately fell a victim to the foreign climate. Even the skin,
/skeleton, and remains of the gorilla preserved in spirits, are ranked
aaiong the greatest treasures of our Natvral History Museums.

Thf; second representative of the Africim man-like apes is compara-
tively frequent, and is well-known under tnc name of the chimpanzeCj
though few full-grown specimens have been brougl t to this continent ;
it is much smaller, slenderer, and more elegantly built than the gorilla,
and often measures sixty inches in length. While the gorilla fiequents

i 1

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(606)

THE WORLD-RENOWNED GORILLA.

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

607

■ ■•^' >*!

the densest woods, and is only found in the lands near the coast, the
chimpanzee inhabits the whole of the West African sub-division, and
seems to prefer being near the open clearings of the forests ; both kiiids
of ape feed principally on fruits, nuts, and the young shoots of trees,
perhaps also on roots.

As to the mental qualities of the chimpanzee in captivity, much has
been written, and it is agreed that the animal may be ranked among the
most highly gifted of its race. It not only learns to know its master, to
love its friends, and avoid its enemies ; it is not only inquisitive, but
actually desirous of knowledge. Any object which has once excited
its attention increases in value as soon as it has learned how to use it;
the chimpanzee is cunning, self-willed, but not stubborn, desiring what i&
good for itself, betraying humor and caprices ; one day cheerful and'
excited, another depressed and sullen.

A Very Human Animal.

When ill, it is patient under the surgeon's Inife ; and, according ta
Brehm, if not entirely human, has a great deal of the human within it
It cannot therefore excite our surprise that the natives of West Africa
are of opinion that the chimpanzees were once men, who, on account of
their bad qualities, have been thrust out from human companionship ; and
still persisting in yielding to their evil impulses, have gradually sunk to
their present degraded coridition. Less is known of the chimpanzee in
a state of freedom ; like the gorilla, it does not live in troops, as do other
monkeys, but in pairs, or even alone; it is only occasionally that the
young are seen to assemble in larger bands. The chase is difficult. From
twenty to thirty skilled hunters are required for the pursuit. To them is
entrusted the difficult commission of climbing up the trees for more than
eighty feet, trying to outdo the chimpanzee in speed, and to capture it
in the nets, after which it is easily despatched by lances.

When thus brought to bay, the apes defend themselves with savage
fury, sometimes snatching the spears from the hunter's hand, and strik-
ing out wildly right and left ; and even more dangerous than this method
of defence is the grip of their pointed teeth, and the amazing muscular
power of their nervous arms. Here, as in the woods on the western
coast, legends are current of their carrying off human beings, and of the
curious nest which it is said they build of leafy branches in the crest of
the forest trees.

We must not omit to mention the smaller kinds of apes ; for although
they are very numerous in all the primeval woods of the tropical belt of
Africa, they are principally found along the west coast and near the

408

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Upper Nile. The name sea-cats, by which they are sometimes known,
was given centuries a<^o to these merest and prettiest specimens of the
monkey tribe, because they were brought over the sea to Europe, and
because something in their shape resembles the cat. The favorites of
the children, the nimble, quarrelsome, amusing inhabitants of our men-
ageries and zoological gardens, which sometimes win from the grave
man of science a smile, belong to this category. The greyish grctn
monkey, the slate-colored, white-bearded Diana, the ill-tempered black
monkey, the reddish huzzar monkey, and numerous other kinds, are
included in this family.

It is a real pleasure to meet with a band of these monkeys in the for-
est; it is a wild chaos of busy life, crymg and fighting, quarrelling and
reconciliation, climbing, running, pilfering and plundering, grimacing
and contortion. They recognize no leader of their commonwealth,
except the strongest of their race ; they acknowledge no law but that
■enforced by the sharp teeth and strong hands of their chief; they con-
sider that no danger can exist from which he is not able to set them free,
they adapt themselves to every position, have no fear of drought or fam-
ine, and spend their lives in perpet"Hl activity and merriment. Their
chief characteristic is the combination of most amusing earnestness with
boundless frivolity, which accompanies the beginning and end of all their
pursuits.

Inveterate Thieves.

No tree crest is too high, no treasure too safely hidden, no property
too respected, for their attacks. It is therefore not astonishing that the
natives of East Soudan only speak of them with unutterable contempt
and anger. " Only think, sir, the clearest proof of the godless nature of
monkeys may be seen in their never bowing before the word of God's
ambassadors : all other creatures honor and revere the prophet ; Allah's
peace be upon him ! The monkeys despise him. The man who writes
an amulet, and hangs it up in his field to keep off the hippopotamus, the
elephant, ".nd the monkeys from devouring his fruit and injuririg his
property, always finds that the elephant alone pays any heed to the
warning signal ; that is because he is a righteous beast, while the ape has
been transformed by the wrath of Allah into an abomination to all men ;
■a child of the unrighteous one, just as the hippopotamus is the forbidding
image of the loathsome sorcerer."

But for the impartial spectator it is an attractive and interesting spec-
tacle to watch a band of monkeys setting off upon their predatory expe-
■ilitions. The audacity they displayed used to delight me as much as it

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

60)»

enraged the natives. Under the leadership of the old veteran father of
the tribe they approach the corn fields, the females carrying their young
before them, instead of on their backs; the young ones, to make them-
selves perfectly secure, twist their short tails round the tail of their lady
mother. At first they approached with great circumspection, travelling
generally from one tree top to another.

The old leader goes first, the others following exactly in his steps, not
only seizing the same trees, but the same portion of the same branch.
From time to time the leader climbs the highest tree, and surveys the
country with careful glances : if his examination is satisfactory, the good
news is announced to his followers by a low gurgling sound; if not, the
usual warning is given. When close to the field, the band descends the
tree, and hastens in vigorous leaps towards its paradise, and then the
work begins with indescribable rapidity. First of all they lay in a stock.
Quickly are the clusters of maize and ears of durrah torn down and
stuffed into the mouth, until the cheeks are distended to the uttermost,
and not until these storehouses are full do the marauders allow them-
selves any relaxation. They then begin to be more particular and dainty
in the choice of their food. All the ears and clusters are carefully sniffed
and examined after being broken off; and if, ai is often the case, they do
not come up to the required standard, they a/e at once thrown away. It
may be safely said that of nine clusters wl. ich are gathered, only one is
eaten; and generally the epicures only take a grain or two out of each
ear, and then throw the rest away.

Quick Retreat.

All the members of the band place implicit confidence in tht care and
prudence of their leader. The latter often rouses himself from the most
dainty morsel to attend to his duties, standing upright on his hind legs,
and looking keenly round. After each survey he announces the result
either by the gurgling sound, which indicates that he has seen nothing
disquieting, or by the peculiar inimitable quivering cry of warning.
When that sound is heard, his followers are gathered together in a mo-
ment, the mothers call their young ones, and all are at once ready for
?.ight. The retreat is accomplished without the slightest sign of terror
or cowardice.

The gorilla and monkey tribes appear to be closely allied to the
orang-outang, found in some of the tropical islands. We here quote
from the interesting narrative of a tropical traveller, who captured several
orangs :

This monkey is found in Borneo, and thither Thursday (Thursday was

610

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Ill

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a native) — now grown more civilized and more indispensable — and I
turned our faces. We took passage on a craft going out with Chinese
laborers, and a hard voyage we had of it, with head winds and a heavy-
sea. But at last, ten days late, we arrived at Saraouak, and immediately
inquired of the native hunters where we could best find the game foi
which we were in search. They advised the Sadong River, running to
the east fro .1 Saraouak, and bordered its entire length with dense forests.
I hired a Dyak porter to carry our provisions, and we set out. Two
days later we were floating on the river, and my ardent desire was about
to be gratified.

Arms Longer than Legs.

Orang-outang is a word meaning in Borneo, "Man-of- the- Forest,"
and is applied to what is now a species of small stature, rarely five feet
high, but of stalwart build, the body being often in circumference two-
thirds of the height. His arms are a quarter longer than his legs, so
that whcii lidvclling on all fours his attitude is half upright; but he never
really stands on his legs like a man, popular belief to the contrary not-
witb .tanding. When young his color is tawny, but he grows black with
years.

The orangs live in couples in the most secluded parts of the forest, and
are never active, like the chimpanzees, but sit all day with their legs
round a branch, their heads forward in the most uncomfortable attitude,
occasionally uttering mournful sounds. When pursued they climb slowly
up a tree, and at night sleep in the huts built to cover their young, of
which they are very careful, and whose wants they supply with almost
human tenderness and devotion. When taken young they are suscep-
tible of taming and domesticating, like the chimpanzee, but as they grow
older they become cross and violent, and, curiously enough, the fore-
head — prominent in the adult — becomes retreating in later years.

Formidable Foe.

After waiting some days without seeing any orangs, my native guide
advised our going away from the river, deeper into the unbroken forest;
and this we did, a two days' march. One morning, just as I had killed
and was examining a queer wild pig, I heard a rustling in the leaves over
my head, and looking up, was paralyzed with surprise to see, some
twenty-five or thirty feet above me, an enormous orang-outang quietly
seated on a tamarind branch, watching me and grinding his teeth. My
porter was making me elaborate signals of distress which Thursday
translated into advice to shoot the beast, who was old and fully grown^
with my explosive-ball rifle.

sable — and I
A^ith Chinese
and a heavy
immediately
the game for
r, running to
dense foresti.-.
it out. Two
re was about

f-the-Fore&t,"
irely five feet
[iference two-
in his legs, so
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:he forest, and
nth their legs
table attitude,
r climb slowly
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r with almost
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as they grow
igh, the fore-
years.

native guide
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s I had killed
le leaves over
to see, some
utang quietly
is teeth. My
ch Thursday
1 fully grown.

(611)

612

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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" He says he is an evil one," added Thursday, " and that the old orangs
are very dangerous and will attack a man at sight. '

"All right," I replied. ''If he offers to attack us, I will stop him
promptly with a bullet." •'

It is true that one of my most ardent desires was to obtain a skeleton
of a fully-developed orang-ou ang, but I decided to postpone the gratifi-
cation of it until I should have watched the animal's movements in a
state of absolute freedom. I told my men to clap thi.tr hands and shout,
to scare him, but all he did was to sit and grind his testh ; and I was
almost persuaded to try my Dyak's advice, when the orang-outang
coolly grasped a branch hanging near, and swung himself slowly from
tree to tree without any apparent effort, about as fast as we could walk
beneath. We followed him until the dense undergrowth made the path
impracticable. An athlete would have performed this trapeze act with,
perhaps, more grace, but nothing could surpass the indolent ease with
which he left us behind.

Must Kin or be KUled.

This was my first interview with this peculiar animal ; and the super-
stitious Dyak assured Thursday, relating numerous parallel cases, that as
I had not killed the orang, the orang would certainly kill me. He said
he had known a great many travellers who had been attacked by them
and killed, and that I would soon join their number, although he con-
fessed that he had never himself been present at such a misfortune.

One morning, as I was returning from a long walk through the
woods in search of insects, one of my boys came running toward me,,
shouting with excitement, '* Quick, take your gun ! a large orang, a large
orang ! "

He had only breath enough left to tell me the animal was up the path
toward the Chinaman's camp, and I hurried in that direction followed by
two Dyaks. One barrel of my gun was loaded with ball, and I sent
Charley — the boy — ^back to camp for more ammunition, in case I should
find the game had kindly waited for me. We walked carefully, making
almost no noise, stopping every now and then to look round ourselves,
until Charley rejoined us at the spot where he had seen the orang, and
I put bail in the other barrel and waited, sure that we were near the
game. In a moment or two I heard a heavy body moving from tree to
tree, but the foliage was so thick we could see nothing.

Finally, fearing I might lose him entirely, I fired at guess into & tree in
which we thought he must be. For so large an animal he moved with
remarkable swiftness and silence, but I telt sure, if we could follow his

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

613

general course, we should eventually catch sight of him in some more
open bit of forest. And so it proved.

* Cuttings Dowu the. Tree.

Just at the spot where he had first been seen by Charley, and to which
we had now got back, his tav/ny side and black head appeared for an
instant ; I saw him cross the path, dragging one leg as if it had been
broken. At any rate, he could not use it, and he took refuge betvvcc n
two branches of a lofty tulip-tree, sheltered from sight by the thick
growth of glossy leaves. I was afraid he would die up there, and I
should never get him or his skeleton. It was no use trying to get the
Dyaks to climb the tree and cut the branch from under him ; they were
afraid, and said so. VJe tried to dislodge him with all sorts of missiles,
but in vain. Finally we started to cut down the tree ; but when the
trunk was severed the tree only leaned over, and was held in that position
by innumerable tough vines running to a dozen neighboring trees. It
would take us all night to cut them all down ; still, we began the work,
which almost immediately gave the tree such a shaking that down came
the gigantic orang with a tremendous thud. When we came to measure
him, we found him a giant indeed, stretching from hand to hand over six
feet. When he fell the Chinamen lashed him to a litter and carried him
into camp, where it took Charley and myself all day to clean his skin and
boil the flesh from his skeleton. From this and many similar experiences
I have become convinced that, in spite of stories to the contrary, the
orang-outang never attacks man. His policy is always flight, and to my
own testimony is added that of all the Chinese wood-cutters whom I met
in Borneo ; and the island is full of them.

A Youngr Orang.
Soon after this a young orang fell into my hands, and I determined to
rear him if I could. I started the Dyak off in search of a goat, and told
him not to return until he found one. Meanwhile I mixed sugar, bread,
and water together, and, although at first he declined it energetically, he
soon sucked it from my finger with a decided gusto. It proved, how-
ever, too strong fooi' for so young a stomach, and I was just beginning
to think he would die on my hands, when the Dyak, followed by a
Chinaman and a goat, came into camp. The Chinaman was sharp at
trading; but finally, after pretending that I cared nothing whatever about
his goat, and after long haggling on his part, starting at one hundred
rupees (twelve dollars and fifty cents) and coming down to five, the goat
became mine, and the little orang-outang obtained a step-mother that
soon rivalled its own mother in tenderness. She nursed it and caressed

I; ^

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APES AMONG THE TREES,

(514)

STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA.

615

it exactly as if it had been her own, and a very pret'^y sight it was. He
soon grew large enough to travel on his own sturdy legs, at any sudden
alarm running quickly back to his nurse and clinging to her with his
sinewy fingers.

When he strayed away out of her sight in the woods, it was really
Dathetic to hear her bleatings and his answering cries. He had gradu-
ally come to know me, and he treated us all with the greatest gentleness.
When he was three months old I began to give him bananas, of which
he was very fond, and he afterward became accustomed to other fruits ;
but nothing ever pleased him like the goat's milk.

He learned very quickly, and at five months knew all objects in my
tent by name, bringing to me anything I called for, which was certainly
more than many children of two or even three years could have done.
But with the latter, development progresses with giant strides after that
age, while with an orang it ceases. What an animal is at one year of
age he always remains.

A Clever Monkey.

One morning a Chinaman came to offer for sale a tiny monkey which
he had partially tamed. This little animal looked like a pygmy beside
my young orang, but he could do a variety of things, like feeding^ him-
self, etc., that the larger was not yet up to. So I bought him, and put
them in the same hut, where they soon became fast friends ; the monkey,
on account of his more perfectly developed faculties, being easily master.

When he wanted to sleep nothing would do but that the orang must
lie down too, and let him pihow his head 6n him. But there was
another side to this ; for the orang-outang looked upon him as a kind of
doll, invented for his particular enjoyment, and when iie felt in playful
mood, he would seize the monkey by the ear or the neck or the tail, and
swing him round and hold him in any uncomfortable position at his own
sweet will. The monkey would rage and even weep, but only interfer-
ence on our part would stop this rough treatment. He learned early, ?.s
all animals do, to distinguish the members of our party and their rela-
tions, and, as master, he always treated me with respectful obedience.

I taught him to eat rice boiled in milk, and to use a spoon and bowl
like his little friend, who, by the way, was fond of stealing from him all
he safely could. They were both gluttons, and nc. thing amused Thurs-
day more than to set them quarrelling over some bit of choice fruit. As
the orang's teeth grew, his temper and character became more pro-
nou.iced, and, like an ill brought-up child, he wished all around him to
give way to his whims.

516

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

He had no consideration whatever for the Dyak, who washed and
tended him with the greatest patience, but tried to pull his hair and bite
him whenever the mood seized him. I named him Joseph and the mon-
key Jack — ^after my chimpanzee friend — and they answered prompdy to
their names when called, without mistake. I was proud of them and
their accomplishments, and tempted to send them home to some natural-
ist, but chance prevented. You should have seen them — ^Jack, a napkin
round his neck, seated at a corner of the table eating slowly with fork
and spoon, like any well-taught child : Joseph, with a napkin over his
arm, waiting upon him as solemnly as an English butler. To be sure^
they stole the best fruit — but then, no one is perfect ! It was with a real
pang that I left these little fellows behind with a friend, to whom I gave
them on my departure from Borneo.

Perhaps this is the only case on record of the growth in captivity of a
young orang-outang, and it is interesting to note in what ways he
resembled a child. When very young he lay nearly always on his back,
with his legs in the air, and when he wanted anything he simply put his
head back and howled till he got it. When he first began to walk it
was with the same timid hesitation that a child does, and when he suc-
ceeded in taking a few steps without falling, he glanced at us with a
very human look of triumph. The appearance of the goat always caused
him a high degree of satisfaction, expressed, again like a child on the
entrance of its niother, by little sighs of contentment. I may say, indeed,,
that up to the age of four or five months I saw nothing different in him
from what I have remarked in a child except that difference of develop-
ment mentioned before.

CHAPTER XXVII.
A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

Thrilling Incidents in the Life of Baldwin— A Man of Rare Attainments^Boid
Hunter— Kaffirs and Hottentots— Terrible Drought— Two Stately Giraffes— A
Rickety pid Wagon— Trouble With an Ancient Musket— Greedy Kaffir— Hostile
Natives — Loud Talk and Bluster — The Land lor Brilliant Sport— Troop of
Elephants— The Buffalo and Rhinoceros— Bright and Burning Sun— Story of a.
Little African— Swimming a Turbid River— In Pursuit of a Huge Elephant-
Crashing Through the Thicket— Hunter Charged by an Elephant— Fat Meat and
Half-starved Natives— Immense Beasts Disappear Like Magic— Canoes Upset
and their Crews Drowned— Race of Savages Always at War— Covetous Chief—
An Open Air Dinner — Kaffir Girls for Waiters — Description of Kaffir Beauties-
Roasted Giraffe for Dinner— An Unscrupulous Rascal — Trying to Get the Best ol
the Bargain — In Pursuit of Elands— Riding at a Slashing Pace— Floundering
Among Pit-falls— Another Encounter With Elephants — Perilous Situation— In
Close Contact With an Immense Beast — Shots That Went Home— A Famous
Bird — Pathetic Death of a Dog — Combats With Tigers — Exciting Events in the
Jungle — Indiscriminate Combat — Savage Charge by a Buftalo — Caught Among
Prickly Thorns— Beast that Cannot Be Driven— Chase of the Giraffe— Unique
Animal — Eyes of Wonder 'ul Beauty — Elegant Roan Antelope— Crisis of Fate — A
Herd of Harrisbucks — '^'he Plumed Ostrich— Ingenious Method of Gettiner
Water— Ostrich Chicks— Not Particular as to Food.

as our object is to present every phase of life in the Continent of
Africa, not merely following those great explorers whose aim is-
to make discoveries, prepare the way for commerce, and change
the character of the savage races, but to also follow the adven«
tures of the chase, we present some remarkable incidents in the life of
William Charles Baldwin, Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society^
whose graphic description of his life in South Africa may well be re-pro-
duced here and will certainly be read with absorbing interest.

Mr. Baldwin was not onlv a scholarly man, well fitted by natural attain-
ments to hold the position of member of the Royal Geographical Society,
but he was a very spirited hunter, a man fond of the jungle and the plain,
a man of great nerve and endurance, and probably no hunter in Africa
can tell so many thrilling tales as he. To ^ome of these we now invite
the reader's attention, and we shall allow Mr. Baldwin to narrate hi&
adventures in his own language.

He says : I ani now left entirely to my own devices in the deserts oi
South Africa, with three Kaffirs, two Hottentots, a driver and after-

(617)

618

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

rider, a wagon, eighteen oxen, a cow and calf, five horses and seven dogs,
with guns, powder and lead, beads, wire, and supplies of tea, coffee, meal,
etc., for a twelvemonth at least.

It is a great change to find myself entirely alone after the row and
racket of hitching up eleven wagons daily, but it is my own doing, and
from my own choice. This is the beginning of the new Kaffir ciet's
reign; he is talking very largely, and has succeeded in frightenin^ my
Hottentots considerably, and they come to me with long faces to kaow
what I will do. My answer is, " Hitch up at once, and get throug!i his
country as quick as possible." A full complement of eland- and
giraffes have fallen to our rifles, and a lion killed one (''f our oxen one
pitch da*'- night- -nc escaped unhurt.

Terrible Drouth.

I bou ^h;: h\- b ads about 600 lbs. of Kaffir corn, and the wagon is
very heavy, iuhei ''oxen are much to be pitied, having to drag it
through deep, heavy sand, under a broiling sun, without one drop of
water to cool their throats for two days. We must travel most of the
night, too, as in the heat of the day they cannot move. A drop of cold,
clear, sparkling water would be the greatest luxury that could be set
before me just now; what we do get is stagnant, muddy stuff, from pits
made by the Kaffirs, which they carefully fence round with hack thorns
to keep the game from drinking them dry. Two stately giraffes walked
yerterday parallel with the wagon, not more than 400 yards off, for
nearly half an hour, and we did not molest them, as we haJ a super-
abundance of flesh for men and dogs.

This has been almost the driest season ever known, and travelling in
in this thirst-land is no easy matter; you must undergo great hardships
^nd much anxiety for your poor live-stock. I have sad misgivings about
my wagon, which is twenty-seven years old, and very shaky and rickety ;
but perhaps, with the aid of green hides and rhinoceros skin, she may
hold together. There are hardships enough in travelling in the thirst-
land without the anxiety of fearing lest your old wagon should leave you
in the desert far from any human assistance. I believe I have almost
every other requisite for exploring the continent — health, strength, a con-
stitution well inured to the climate, a constant supply of good spirits, a
knack of gaining the good-will of the Kaffirs, natives, and Hottentots,
who will go anywhere and do anything for me, as I always lend a hand
at anything, and study their comforts as well as my own. I have no ties
of kindred or friends here to make me wish myself among them. I never
weary with vajn regrets, but always make myself happy, and endeavor to

A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

G19

le wagon is

m.'ke the best of everything, and interest myself in the journey
throughout.

I have now got a two-grooved rifle, the most perfect weapon I ever
handled. It shoots perfectly true with any charge of powder, but the
recoil will, I fear, twist me out of the saddle.

The reader will perceive that Baldwin is narrating events as ley were
recorded in his journal from day to day.

Trouble With an Old Musket.

A Kaffir brought an old musket to be mended, and, in botching away
at the lock, I succeeded in breaking it in two places beyond my skill to
nend. Although I tried to explain to him that it was accidental, and
that I was doing all I could to assist him without any compensation, and
had worked unremittingly at it for near two days, and that it was useless
to him when he brought it, and consequently it was no worse now, he
would listen to nothing: I had broken his gun, and I must give him
another ; and, being a great man, brot' .r Chapeau, the captain, and
having a strong force at command, "^ wi forced to submit, take his
old useless musket, and give him one th.ze times the value. There is no
arguing with a Kaffir; he said that W'- n, a white man, did the same
— that is, broke his gun in endeavorng to mend it, and instantly v/ent to
the wagon and gave him a new one T uo not doubt that he did so, as
he had a lot of muskets. In the Kaffirs' eyes a gun is a gun.

A party of Bamangwatos followed the wagon, well armed with spears,
axes, bows and arrows, and two guns, saying that I must not hunt in
their country until I first paid them for leave to do so ; and that if I did
not do so, and persisted in hun*^ing, they would kill us all. My fellows
talked very big, especially Auguste, a large, powerful Kaffir, saying that
if they wanted to fight they must come on ; we were quite ready for
them at any moment, having plenty of guns and powder. I said nothing,
but let things take their course, and merely ordered the wagon to go on,
and left the Bamangwatos to do whatever they thought best. At night I
serv^' out plenty of powder and bullets, a watch was kept, and every
man had his gun handy. My fellows talk largely, but what they would
do in case of an actual skirmish I don't know. I don't place much con-
fidence in one of them, nor do I fear the Kaffirs, unless they can catch
me unprepared — and I and my gun are constant companions.

A Land for Brilliant Sport.

This river appears of immense breadth ; nor do I see any possible way
of crossing it, as I d© not know where the stream runs to, and, as far as
the eye can reach, there is nothing to be seen but reeds so tall and thick

620

WONDERS OF THl-: TROPICS.

!*''

m '

:?■•

14: j:

that it is impossible to force your way through them. There is safe har-
Dor here for all the game and wild animals in South Africa. I never saw
anything like it, and my Hottentots say it is the same all the way to
I^kc Ngami, about thirteen days from here in a wagon. It is not far,
but the sand is so heavy that the oxen can only take slow and short
stages. We have plenty of good water now, but the frightful annoyance
from mosquitoes at night counterbalances this advantage. I know of no
country in the world that can compare with Africa for brilliant sport, but
it must be confessed that this part of it is a sandy desert only fit to keep
a few miserable goats in existence. There is not a bite of grass now
except along the edge of the reeds, but then it is winter. Although the
sun is overpowering in the day, it is very cold in the early mornings and
at nights, and it requires a considerable amount of couiage to get from
under the blankets before sunri.se.

I found yesterday the fresh trail of a troop of elephants, some very
large bulls and cows intermixed, and tracked them to the water. Last
night all the dogs were made fast, and small fires only allowed, as we were
by far too near the elephants' trail with the wagon ; but, luckily, the wind
was right, and John and I went this morning, as soon as it was light
enough to see, to fipd out whether the elephants had drunk last night,
but they had not. I wait quiet to-day in hopes they may come
to-night; if not, I shall take the old trail and go in quest of them to-mor-
row, for if they don't come to-night they must find water somewhere else,
as they must drink every second night at the longest.

There is plenty of buffalo, giraffe, and rhinoceros, but this is not what
I want. The elephants are wary, and very hard indeed to come at, as
they are now so much .sought for, and every savage knows the value ot
the ivory. I have tried fishing to-day, as I dare not fire a shot for fear of
frightening the elephants, who cannot be far away ; but the water was too
clear and the sun too bright to tlo any good.

A Little African.

One day I bought, for the identical old musket before mentioned that T
was forced to take in exchange, and which I had managed to patch up
with an old nail and the sinews of a buck, a little Masara boy — a
waddling infant, certainly not more than two years old, but with an intel-
ligent countenance, and not yet starved — whom I named Leche ; and he
is a fine, quick little fellow. I am now quite fond of him. A gang of
Bamangwatos, returning from hunting jackals, lynxes, wild cats, and
skins of all kinds, had picked up this poor little urchin. They remained
all night by my wagon, and the one who called himself owner brought

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622

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

him to me. My interpreter told me that if I did not take him they were
just as hkely to leave him as not, if they got tired of carrying him across
the desert ; and knowing the fate in store for him, even if they got him
home — the slave of a Bamangvvato, who live from hand to mouth them-
selves — I took compassion on him, and rescued him from their hands.

One afternoon we unhitched close to the river, within a few hundred
yards of where elephants had drunk the previous night, and we made all
ready for a hunt in the morning ; and I was awakened at dawn b> bear-
ing loud cries from the Masaras, over the river, that the elephants had
drunk there in the night. We swam the horses over with the aid of a
canoe. The river is about 3CX) yards across, but the bottom is good, and
the stream is not strong. The water is deliciously cold and clear — a
great treat in this desert land.

A Huge Monster.

We took up the trail on the opposite side of three bulls, not, however,
until the bones had been cast, and the witch-doctor or prophet had fore-
told that we should find them, and that I should shoot a fat bull, with
one long and one short tusk. I followed silently in the rear of the men,
through a thick thorny bush. I had a presentiment that we were near
them, and took my gun from the Kaffir's hands ; and not three minutes
afterward I saw, from the gesticulations of the Masaras, they had seen
them. The dogs were slipped, and all was quiet for some time, when I
heard one bark, followed immediately by the trumpeting of a bull. I
made the best of my way in the direction, when I was turned by a voice
shouting, " Come here, Natoo," and made for him.

I heard a shot behind me, turned at once, and caught sight of the
retreating monster. The bush being uncommonly dense, I was fearful of
losing him, and fired, striking him in the thick of the thigh, and he took
up a position in a thicket, trumpeting and charging the dogs in all direc-
tions, making a loud crashing. Unfortunately, the cap was driven into
the nipple at the first shot, and I lost some time in trying to get it out,
and broke the point of my knife, but I eventuallysucceeded with a strong
needle which I had in my hat. There were five men with guns, but no
one had ventured into the bush to give him a shot ; and the Kaffirs, no
doubt, thought me afraid likewise ; but when I was sure of my gun, I
rode in, taking care to have a clear passage for a speedy exit. When
within about twenty-five yards, he threw up his trunk and came direct
toward me.

The horse stood still as old Time, and I gave him a conical ball, five to
the pound, backed by six drachms of fine powder, on the point of the

A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

023

shoulder-blade. Flesh and blood could not stand before such a driver ;
and, staggering and stumbling forward a few yards, he pitched right on
his head within fifteen yards of me ; then my brave followers immedi-
ately rushed in and gave him a volley as he lay on his broadside, and it
was all over with him.

Though the other elephants could not have been far off, all hunting
was over for that day, as the sight of so mucii fat meat was irresistible to
the half-starved Masaras ; and nothing I could offer would induce them to
take up the trail of the other bulls, so they will live to fight another day.

Large Herd of Elephants.

We crossed the river at dawn of day ; not, however, until I had paid a
bag of powder and a bar of lead for the use of two old canoes, which,^
however, were indispensable to us. We took up the trail of a large herd
of elephants, and followed it unremittingly till within two hours of sun-
set, straight away from the river, to a thick grove of mapani-trees, the
leaves of which very much resemble the beech, and are even now, in the
depth of winter, green and luxuriant. Here we found a large herd of
fifty or sixty, all cows and calves. They were feeding, but, on seeing us,
they disappeared like magic; and when the dogs ^ot among them, they
spread in all directions. I shot, also, an old bull buffalo, and the Masa-
ras and Makubas, though well wearied, made a night of it — that is, did
not stop eating until morning ; consequently, only two, that we sent for
water, were able to work the next day.

The next morning we found a troop of eleven or twelve bull elephants
in a thick hack-thorn bush on the banks of the river. As they crashed
away, I rode hard in their rear, shouting lustily, and singled out the
largest bull. I rode close, and he cleared a path for me. He turned to
see who had the audacity to ilde so near, for the horse's nose touched
him, when I gave him a bullet behind the shoulder, and cleared out of
his path. In reloading I lost him, and, cantering on his trail, he very
nearly caught me, as he had stopped and turned round just where the
path turned suddenly and sharply to the ri^ht, and I was almost under
his very trunk ere I saw him. He was lying in wait, and made a ter-
rific charge, trumpeting furiously ; the horse was round like a top, and
away I went, with both rowels deep in his flanks as I threw myself on
his neck. It was a very near shave ; his trunk was over the horse's hind
quarters. I went through bush that, in cool blood, I should have pro-
nounced impenetrable, but did not come o(( scathJess ; my poor hands
are shockingly torn, and my trowsers, from the knee, lite ally in shreds,
though made of goatskin. After giving ihi elephant t\v'o more bullets I

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A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

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lost him. The dogs were frightened to death, and would not leave the
horse's heels.

Boat Creivs Drowned.

The countf}' all around appears to be a perfect flat, very unhealthy and
uninteresting, with a lot of rubbishy reeds at this end, but it is wooded
to the banks on the other side, and most of the way round. I gather
from the natives that it is a three days' ride round the lake, but that the
tsetse render it impossible for horses. The natives are afraid to cross in
their frail canoes, as when a wind rises the water is very rough. Three
canoes were swamped not long since, and their crews drowned. Not
far from the southern point, the road the wagons take to VValvish Bay,
there is a high ridge of rocks, Lechulatcbe's strong-hold in case of an
■attack. These Kaffirs are always at war, cattle being the prime object.
I could only get a very bad view of one end of the lake, but I must con-
fess that I was disappointed in it. The chief went with me, and, by the
aid of an interpreter, gave me all the information he could, and was very
kind and obliging.

He is not a bad fellow at heart, I think, but a dreadful beggar and
very covetous. He appears to have no idea of being refused anything
he fancies, gives you nothing in return, wants your things on his own
terms, and asks outrageous prices for his. He is young, active, an ele-
phant-hunter himself, a good shot, and possesses good guns. On our
return I swam the river, which is about 300 yards wide, and he invited
me to dinner. We dined in the open air, and were attended by the
prettiest girls in the kraal, who knelt before us and held the dishes from
which we ate. -

Kaffir Beautien.

They wear no clothing but a skin around their loins ; their legs, arms,
necks, and waists are ornamented with beads of every variety,
and ivory, brass, and copper bracelets. Finer-made girls than some oi
the well-fed Kaffirs, I suppose, are not to be fbv.nd. They have small
hands and feet, beautifully-rounded arms, delijate wrists and ankles;
their eyes and teeth unsurpassable, and they a, re lithe and supple as a
willow wand.

They say perfect happiness does not exist in thi:« world, but I should
say a Kaffir chief comes nearer to it than any other mortal ; his slightest
wish is law ; he knows no contradiction ; he has the power of life and
death in his hands at any moment, and can take any quantity of v ives
and put them away at pleasure ; he is waited upon like an infant, and
every wish, whim, and caprice is indulged in to the fullest extent ; and

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A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

627

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he has ivory, feathers, and karosses brought to him from all quarters,
which he can barter with the traders for every article of luxury.

Our dinner consisted of roasted giraffe, swimming in fat and grease.
I always do in Rome as Rome does — eat (if I can) whatever is set before
me, and shut my eyes if I feel qualmish. Notliing approaches the parts
most relished by the natives in richness of flavor, and racy, gamy taste.
The Kaffirs know well the best parts of every animal, and laugh at our
throwing them away. But enough ; I enjoyed my dinner. Perhaps a
person with a delicate stomach might have found fault with the means
used to fasten on the lids of the different dishes ; but the native plan is
an excellent one, as everything is kept warm, and nothing can boil over
or escape. Everything was scrupulously clean ; and jackals' tails,
waved in abundance by the many slaves in attendance, kept away the
flies.

*- Shrewd Rascal.

I afterward exchanged my hat with the captain for a pair of leather
crackers, but had to give beads, knife, fork, and spoon into the bargain.
The rascal had no conscience; and after plaguing me till I promised to
give him some tea for the second time, for I had sent him about a pound
on my arrival, he immediately dispatched a messenger for an immense
earthenware jar, which would hold at least two chests, and was highly
indignant at the pigmy appearance of the tea I put in it. He then
plagued me for meal ; and when I offered to exchange with him for
corn, provided he gave me two measurestfor one, he declared there was
none in the state; he lies like a trooper, and only laughs when you
fine! him out. He appears to be very good-tempered, however; but all
Kaffirs have great self-coinmand, and they rarely, if ever, come to blows.

Continuing his account of exciting adventures of the chase, Baldwin
says: To-day I have be^n successful in bringing to bay a splendid fat
eland cow. Accompanied by Januarj' on old Snowdon, two of my
men, and seven Bakalahari, we sallied forth, and soon found fresh trails,
which the Kaffirs followed in the most indefatigable manner ; they led
us in a regular circle. Though we maintained a dead silence, the elands
must have got our wind, as we found from the trail they were off at full
speed. January then took up the trail, holding on fast by the pommel
with one hand, and kept it in the most marvellous manner at a canter,
wherever the bush would permit of it, for three r four miles at least. I
followed in his wake, my horse Ferus (fearless), who is in excellent con-
dition, pulling hard. I should have called a halt, but the trail led home-
ward. January still kept on at a canter through the thick bush. At

ce'.s8)

A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

629

length I got sight of three cows ; the rest of the party had done their
duty, it was now my turn : I contented myself by keeping them in sight
till we got into a much more open part, when I let Ferus make play, and
we went at a slashing pace over everything. The elands led me in among
the Kaffir pitfalls, and I steered my nag wherever the fence was thickest,
as being safest, and he jumped like a stag, and in a very short bru?-i
singled out and ran right into the best cow, when I fired from the sadc* e.

Narrow Escape.

One morning I found five bull elephants, gave chase, and singled and
drove out the largest, and gave him a couple of pills to make him quiet;
he shortly turned and stood at bay, about forty yards off, and then came
on with a terrific charge. My newly-purchased horse, Kebon, which I
was riding for the first time, stood stock still, and I intended to give the
elephant my favorite shot in the chest, but at every attempt to raise the
gun for the purpose of so doing my horse commenced tossing his head
up and down, and entirely prevented me from taking aim. During my
attempts to pacify and steady him, the bull charged, and I fired at ran-
dom, and whether the ball whistled uncomfortably near the horse's ear
or not I can't say, but he gave his head so sudden a jerk as to throw the
near rein over on to the off side ; the curb-chain came undone, and the
bit turned right round in his mouth.

The huge monster was less than twenty yards off, ears erected like
two enormous fans, and trumpeting furiously. Having no command
whatever of my horse, I dug the long rowels in most sava;^ely, when
Kebon sprang straightforward for the brute, and I thought it was all up ;
I leaned over on the offside as far as possible, and his trunk was within
a few feet of me, as I shot close by him.

I plied the rowels, and was brought again to a sudden sUnd by three
trees, in a sort of triangle; a vigorous dig, and he got through^ my right
shoulder coming so violently in co ct with one of the trees as almost
to unhorse me, slewing my right a i behind my back, over my left hip.
I know not how I managed to sti .^ to my gun, 14 lbs. vv^ight, with my
middle finger only hooked throu; the trigger-guard, my left hand right

end of the reins, which, most fortu-l
red, and in this fashion he went at a
tangled bush and underwood mostly
hack-thorns, over which my na^j jumped like a buck. He was very
nearly on his hiead three or four times, as the soil was very heavy, sandy,
and full of holes.

The monster was all this time close in my wake ; at length I got clear

across my chest, holding by t'
nately, I had in my hand when
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630

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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from him, and he tur'iw'd md made off in the opposite direction at his
best pace. As soon as I could pull up, which I managed after perform-
ing three or four circles, I jumped off, righted my bridle, and went after
him like the wind,,as he had a long start, and I w.^s afraid of losing him
in thick bush. After giving hiri ten shots, and sustaining three more
savage charges, the last a long and silent one, far from pleasant, as my
horse had all the puff taken out of him, and he could only manage to keep
his own before the brute, to my great satisfaction he at length fell, to rise
no more. I had long been quite exhausted, and could not even put a
cap on the nipple. One of my men turned up about an hour after; he

AT CLOSE QUARTERS.

said he fired all his powder away, giving his elephant sixteen bullets to
no purpose ; but the horse looked quite fresh, and both barrels were
loaded, and every man has a perfect right to form his own opinion as to
the reason why and wherefore.

Elephant hunting is the very hardest life a man can chalk out for him-
self Two blank days, riiHng five hours at a foot's pace to a ravine, where
the Masaras tell you they have drunk ; sleeping in the bush with nothing
to eat; a drink of muddy water in the morning, out of a dirty tortoise-
shell, which serves for breakfast, dinner, and supper ; all day in the
saddle, under a broiling sun, following afler three half-starved Masaras in

A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

631

greasy, tattered skins, who carry a little water, which is nauseous to a
degree, and never seeing life the whole day. Two days like this, followed
by two successful ones, is about what you may expect.

Nothing more miserable and dirty can be conceived than a Masara
encampment. It consists of temporary half-thatched sheds, and a f--w
bushes stuck in here and there to break the wind, with half-putrid dried
flesh, water vessels, and shreds of old skins hung up in the surrounding
trees. My trusty after-rider brings two or three armfuls of grass, and
makes my couch in the most eligible corner, with my saddle for a pillow,
and here I cou'-t sleep till daybreak, lying close to a green wood fire, the
smoke of which passes over you when you lie close to the ground, and
keeps off the mosquitoes.

There is something quite overpowering in the deathlike stillness of the
forest at night — a brilliant sky, innumerable stars, bright and twinkling,
dusky figures in all possible attitudes lying around, the munching of our
faithfwl horses, which are tied to trees all night, and frequently the jackal's
cry, the hyena's howl, the occasional low growl of a lion, or the heavy tramp
and crash in the bush of a herd of elephants, with a scream which can
be heard at an immense distance. This is the way our nights are usually
passed in the bush, and the must light-hearted fellow in the world, when
all alone for months, must have occasional fits of despondency.

/ Ffimous Bird.

Full of thorns and bruises, and half dead from thirst, I off-saddled
Kebon, knee-haltered him, and then lay under the shade of a tree, having
not the most remote idea as to my whereabouts, shouting and firing
blank powder to bring up the Masaias. To add, if possible, to the many
mishaps, my horse had strayed, and I had to follow his trail, and did not
overtake him for nearly a mile, and then I was obliged to retrace my own
footsteps, which was not so easy. I had not long returned when one of
my men turned up, and he led the way back at a trot on foot, distancing
all the Masaras, and just at sunset got to the wagon, where I first got a
drink. Such days as these are rather more than sport.

I was much amused by watching the tickbirds trying to alarm an old
white rhinoceros that we were approaching from under the wind, quite
ignorant of his danger. They ran into his ears and fluttered about his
eyes, keeping up an incessant chirping, but he would not be warned till
we got above wind, when he elevated head and tail, snuffed, trotted, and
snorted, and went away in grand style at a swinging trot. We had better
game in view ; but to-night I am going to watch the water, as the moon
is high, and then he must be more wary. My fellows have just made

632

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

it'

a hole at the edge of the water, as game is very scarce, and we are hard
up for meat.

My poor dog Gyp, I grieve to say, was taken by a tiger. I had rid-
den forward to water, and she came after me. It was night, and a native
heard the scuffle, and poor Gyp's last breath, which left her carcase, not
in the shape of a yell, but rather of a fierce angry whine that she could
not gripe the brute in return. She was the gamest of the game, and had
numberless escapes, wonderful, lucky, or providential, whatever you
like to call them. Except my perfect Juno, I had sooner the fate had
happened to any other of the pack.
• Combat with Tig^ers.

Baldwin does not give any extended account of hunting the tiger, but
we are able to present a spirited account from a traveller of an exciting
tiger hunt, which took place in India.

At break of day, he says, we set out in an imposing array. Twelve
elephants, brilliantly trapped, bore the rajah, the principal officers of his
suite, and your humble servant, lying, like the Romans at their feasts,.
on our backs, under the howdahs. Beside us lay several good rifles,
and behind each of us, his eyes bandaged, a guepard, or hunting tiger.
This curious animal, half-tiger, half-leopard, is famous for his extraordi-
nary eyesight, his speed in running, and his courage in attack. At the same
time he is a thoroughly good-natured and submissive companion, and
makes a capital hunter besides.

There were some hundred men in the party, besides porters, servants^
and cooks, and we journeyed by short stages in really royal style. No
one ever complains of the sleepy slowness of an elephant's gait. You
enjo/ the scenery, you are rocked by his gentle movement into tlie
happiest frame of mind, and you " get there."

After three days of this ideal travelling, one of our advance couriers came
in to say that a tiger was reported in the neighborhood of one of the
near villages, and we all prepared for an exciting day. I had my rifles
cleaned and my ammunition and knives inspected, and resolved to give
a good account of myself. We found that the tiger carried off daily a
bull from the fields, and escaped with it into a densely grown marsh a few
miles away. At least such was the story, if we chose to believe it.

Exciting Events Ahead.

Hardly had we reached the locality before the guepards gave unequiJ
vocal signs that they detected the presence of our game. Armed with
spears, the men began to beat the bushes, much as if they were simple
after hares. Still, as they did not seem to mind the danger, I could not

A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

633

in exciting

sec why I should worry about them, though I sat ready with gun in rest
on my elephant's back.

The plan was successful ; for two enormous tigers bounded out of the
high underbrush like young cats. Our men's cries and the general hub-
bub confused them and made them lose their heads, and they ran back

A PERILOUS POSITION.

and forth without any plan or method. Suddenly one of them sprang at
my elephant, with wild fury, as is their favorite method of attack. I
came to the rescue with my rifle, a;id hurled the brute upon the ground,
and the elephant placed his ponderous feet, one on its flanks and one on
its head I I felt a violent jerk and shock, and heard the cracking of bones

6.14

wondf:rs of fhe tropics.

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like the sound of a tree broken by the force of the tempest : and I saw

the beast flattened under the weight of the massive pachyderm.

The latter, proud of his deed, never lost his dignity or temper for an

instant, and I showered caresses and sugar upon him in reward for his

prompt courage. Meanwhile the other tiger iiad not remained inactive.

lie had succeeded in bringing down a young elephant, on which was

mounted a son of the rajah, now on his first hunt ; the latter, however,

had the good sense to desert his mount, and leave the poor thing to

its fate.

DcHporntc Itattlts

Immediately we all let loose our guepards, whicii fell upon the prey
with their sharp teeth and indomitable courage. The fight became
general; the wounded tiger held its own against the numerous foe, put-
ting several /lors dti combat, laying them open with its fearful claws, or
meeting its fangs in their throats. The struggle was intense, and the
rajah's enjoyment of it was too, for he would not let me end it with a shot
from my good rifle. After some minutes of this kind of thing lie gave
Jiis men a signal, and they surrounded the combatants and with their
spears put an end to the tiger, and drew off the limping guepards.

The foregoing narrative will serve to show what startling risks are run
by hunters in the Tropics. Baldwin's experiences are evidence of this,
and we again quote from his thrilling account.

I hardly know, he says, what I liave done the last fortnight ; I have
been five consecutive days in the saddle without finding elepiiants ; I am
now three days on my road back again — a weary, long journey, without
water so far, and T shall be (obliged to wait for rain before I can get out,
besides which the ravines are now full of a poisonous herb, which is cer-
tain death in a few hours to oxen, so that we arc obliged to be most
cautious. Painter, one of my horses, was left behind yesterday for dead ;
thirst and the intense heat of the sun had, to all appearance, finisluxl
him ; but, to my amazement, he turned up again this morning, having
found his way in the night to our old place.

Chased b.y an luftiriated Buffalo.

The best of my stud, Ferus, yesterday got desparately staked in the
breast. A wounded buffalo, which I was trying to drive, charged nic
most savagely, and none other but Ferus could have brought me safely
out. It was a near thing for about one hundred yards, and when she
was not two yards from my hor.se's tail, taking advantage of an opening
in the bush, I wheeled half round in the saddle, and gave her a bullet
through her right ear and grazed the top of her back, without, however.

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doing her any harm; but she shortly gave up the chase, when I
reloaded, dismounted, and brought her down. It was among hack-
thorns, and my clothes were completely torn off my body. We had not
a bite of anything at all at the wagon, and no near probability of getting
anything, therefore I was rash, as a buffalo is a beast you cannot drive.

The nipple of my gun broke short off in the worm the other day, and
I tried every means to get it out for some time without effect, only mak-
ing matters worse by breaking a plug short offthat I had been harden-
ing and shaping to fit all day. At last I made a drill bore, and suc-
ceeded beyond my most sanguine expectations, and she is now none the
worse. We are obliged to load heavily for South African game ; six
drachms are my smallest dose, and my powder this year is excellent.

I think it hardly possible for the country to be or look worse than
now, and my poor oxen and horses have fallen off fearfully. All the
water-courses are dried up, and we only get a small quantity of water at
the fountains after hard digging, and the little grass there is terribly dry.
In the early mornings, evenings, and night, it is so cold that there is ice
in all the water-vessels, while the days are intensely hot ; from ten to
four it is hardly possible to travel ; we sometimes have high and often
hot winds ; game of all sorts is as thin as deal boards, and the fare, con-
sequently, very indifferent.

Chase of the Giraffe.

Let me give an account of a day's adventure with giraffes.

I took a cup of coffee and a biscuit, and .saddled up. I rode old Bryan,.
a tall, narrow-built, ewe-necked, remarkably long, blue-skimmel horse,
resembling very much in appearance the animal we went to hunt, but with
a great depth of shoulder and breadth of chest, and good girth, and some
capital points about him, though an ungainly, ugly brute, and very heavy
in hand, with a tender mouth. We shortly met six Kaffirs, who told
us they had seen fresh trail of a troop of giraffes, and turned back to
show us. We followed the trail some four miles, through thorns, and
very stony and bad travelling, ascending the different heights to try to
see them, but always following the trail as fast as the Kaffirs could keep
up. I saw them first, full 5CX) yards off, seven or eight of them, and, on
whistling for Swartz, one of my men, they immediately took right away,
with a tremendous start.

We made good play, at a swinging gallop, right through bush and
stones, and, after a long burst, I came within twenty yards of them, when
Bryan stopped in fear and trembling of the huge unwieldy brutes. 1
plied him sharply with the spurs, and got him once more under way.

lase, when I
among hack-

We had not
ity of getting
cannot drive,
ther day, and
ct, only mak-
been harden-
Dore, and sue-
now none the
m game; six

excellent.
)k worse than
Lilly. All the
ty of water at
s terribly dry.
lat therc^ is ice
; from ten to
igh and often-
1 the fare, con-

es.

Dde old Bryan^
<immel horse^
hunt, but with
jirth, and some
nd very heavy
iffirs, who told
irned back to
yh thorns, and
yhts to try to
rs could keep
them, and, on
Dk right away,

igh bush and
of them, when
dy brutes. 1
re under way.

t*)

(637)

638

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'r,H

' \ i

in < " I

ill i ''

keeping above the wind, as the giraffes have a strong effluvia, which
Frighten horses unused to them. We came out on the clearing, Swartz
Forty or fifty yards in advance of me, and as far behind the giraffes. The
sight of the other horse gave Bryan confidence, and he bounded away in
good style, and was alongside instantly, when they again dashed
into thick bush ; here Swartz turned out a cow, the very one I had set
my mind on, and 1 at once took after a large bull. Now he bounded away
with his tail screwed round like a corkscrew, and going in one bound as
far as I went in three.

" He Went Bang: into a Bush.**

Bryan crashed through everything, and I lost my hat and tore
my hands, arms, and shirt to pieces. At length I got nearly
alongside him, and fired, hitting him high in the neck, and taking no effect
whatever on him. Here I got a pull on Bryan and managed to reload,
still going on at a smart gallop, and once more got alongside, and, in
trying to pull up to dismount, he went bang into a bush, which brought
him up short, and he went to back out, the giraffe getting lOO yards in
advance. I soon made up the lost ground, and headed him, endeavoring
to turn him, but he slewed round like a vessel in full sail, bearing down
almosi on the top of me, with his huge fore legs as high in the air as the
horse's back. I had lots of chances to dismount, but had no command
of my nag ; his mouth was dead ; but not a sign of flagging about him.
I steered him close alongside on the near side, held out my gun in one
hand, within two yards of the giraffe's shoulder, and fired. The gun shot
over my head, half breaking my middle finger, and down came the
giraffe, with a tremendous crash, with his shoulder smashed to atoms.
I must have had a heavy charge of powder in, as I loaded at random.

Bryan was as still as a post instantly, and I lost not a moment in off-
saddling him ere I inspected my giraffe, and then put the saddle-cloth
over my bare head, as the sun was intensely hot. I must have run nearly
five miles through hack-thorns and stones of all sizes, as straight as the
crow flies. Swartz killed his cow, about a mile back, with one sliot,
about one hundred yards off. We cut off his mane and tail as a trophy,
and the tongue and marrow-bone for immediate use ; and Swartz and
John coming up, we went to his giraffe, which was the fattest, for meat.
The Kaffirs were there, and I offered them some beads to find my
hat.

I dispatched all the Kaffirs and dogs for meat early in the morning, as
it was late when we got back the previous night. The meat is really
tender and good. I followed my giraffe about twenty yards in the rear

A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER.

639-

for a mile at least, the stones rattling past my head occasionally. When-
ever the ground favored, and I nftde a spurt, he did the same, appearing
to have no end of bottom ; and Bryan could not come up with him,,
though he strained every nerve, and he has a long, swinging gallop, and'
leaves the ground fast behind him.

Till within the last century, the very existence of this magnificent
animal was doubted by civilized peoples— at least, it was no more believed
in than the unicorn. Who can wonder at the incredulity of the people ?
I have seen an animal, said a traveller, with the skin of a leopard, the
head of a deer, a neck graceful as the swan's; so tall, that if three tall
men should stand on each other's shoulders, the tcpmost one could

A RACE FOR LIFE.

scarcely reach its forehead ; and so timid and gentle that the merest
puppy by its bark could compel the enormous creature to its utmost
speed, which excels that of the hare or greyhound!

This was all the traveller knew of the giraffe, and he told it, and when
folks heard or read, they winked, wagged their heads, a^ do knowing
people while exercising their leading faculty, and flatly refused to be
" gulled " by any such " traveller's tale." Suppose, however, the traveller
had known as much about the giraffe as we know, and related it?
Suppose, in addition to the particulars respecting the animal's shape and
size, the traveller had tola our (Treat grandfathers that the tongue of the-
giraffe was such a wonderful instrument that, protruded a foot from the

I;;

»i

'i i

' ;i

640

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

mouth, it was used as a grasper, a feeler, and an organ of taste ; that the
giraffe's tongue was what in many respects the elephant's proboscis is to
that ponderous animal? That the giraffe's nostrils, oblique and narrow,
were defended even to their margins by strong hairs, and surrounded by
muscular fibres, by which they can be hermetically sealed, effectually
preventing the entrance of the fine sand which the suffocating storms of
the desert raise in such clouds that man, with all the appliances sug-
gested by his invention, must flee from or die ? That the giraffe's beau-
tiful eyes, lustrous and prominent, were so situated that he could, without
moving his head, sweep the whole circle of the horizon on all sides,
behind, before, every way, so that for any enemy to approach unawares
was impossible ?

I much question, if the traveller had related these wonders to our
great grandfather — who was a stout-headed man and not to be trifled
with — whether he would not have found himself behind a bedlam-grating
in a very short time.

Besides these mentioned, the giraffe possesses other features equally
peculiar. The first impression one receives on viewing the animal is,
that its fore-legs are considerably longer than its hinder ones. This,
however, is illusory. The walk of the giraffe is not majestic, the neck
stretched in a line with its back giving it an awkward appearance.
When, however, the animal commences to run, all symptoms of awkward-
ness vanish, though its progression is somewhat peculiar. The hind-legs
are lifted alternately with the fore, and are carried outside of and far
beyond them ; while the long black tail, tufted at the end like a
buffalo's, is curled above the back, and moves pendulum fashion exactlv
as the neck moves, giving the creature the appearance of a curious and
nicely-adjusted piece of machinery.

Elegant Boan Autelope.

Soon after my adventure with the giraffes I fell in with a single roan
antelope, and cannot deny myself the pleasure of giving a full account of
the chase from first to last, as it will long live in my remembrance. I
saw him first coming along at a swinging gallop, evidently startled by
something, and endeavored to cut him off, galloping hard and keeping a
tree between us. I got within lOO yards, jumped off, and missed him
like a man going broadside past me ; swallowed my disgust as well as I
could, reloaded, and gave chase.

A stern chase is always a long one, and at the end of about three
miles I could not perceive I had gained a yard on him. The bush get-
ting thicker, I rode lOO yards wide of him, hoping I might gain ground

ders to our
:o be trifled
llam-grating

•^

'i^m^^

GIRAFFES FLEEI'.G FROM A HUNTER.

(641)

B-.

Vt >

^.i

ili '

riii mi

e42

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

on him unperceived, and as he burst once more into the clearing I had
bettered my position fully lOO yards, which he perceived, aiid put on the
steain once more, and I was just pulling up in despair, when I saw his
mouth open, and heard his breath coming thick and fast on the wind.
He was evidently much blown, but my good nag had likewise nearly all
the puff taken out of him. The ground being frightfully stony, he had
to change his legs, alter his stride, and hop about like peas on a platter;
still I had faint hopes, if I was favored by the ground, I might get a long
shot at him. I nursed my nag to the best of my judgment, roweling
him well, but holding him fast by the head, and endeavc ring still to keep
a spurt in him whenever the ground favored, and in this manner I main-
tained my distance, about 200 yards behind the antelope, which I now
perceived to be shortening his stroke as he was nearing the steep bank
of a dry river.

Crisis of Fate.

Now or never ! I spurred my horse, and he put on a capital spurt
and, as he is an admirably-trained shooting horse, I could rely on his
pulling up in ten yards, and I never checked him till within twenty yards
of the bank. The magnificent old buck seemed to know, by instinct, that
this was the crisis of his fate, and tore away on the opposite bank harder
than ever, making the stones clatter and fly behind him. In the twink-
ling of an eye I stood alongside of my nag, steadied myself, gave one
deep-drawn breath, planted my left foot firmly in front, raised my gun,
and fired the moment I got the ivory sight to bear upon him, making an
admirable shot.

Not long after this I had a glorious day on my horse Jack. He
carried me well up to a troop of roan antelopes, when my gun, unfortu-
nately, missed fire. Saw a splendid old bull harrisbuck, but lost sight of
him in trying to get below the wind, and never saw him again. Rode
far, climbing to the top of the hills ; at length saw about twenty-two
harrisbucks ; got below the wind and within 300 yards, when they took
the alarm. I had a very long chase of five miles, at least. The ground
being so bad, and my horse blind, I could only go steadily ; at length,
got them at advantage, and put Jack's powers to the test.

He galloped strong and well, and as they were thundering down a pass
between two mountains, through a dry ravine, I got within three lengths
of the hindmost buck. The pace was tremendous. One magnificent
old bull I had set my heart on, and was close to him. Jack drew up
ghort just on the brink of the ravine, and, in my hurry to jump off, I got
my foot fast in the stirrup. I had my back to the bucks, and when I had

taring I had
d put on the
en I saw his
on the wind,
ise nearly all
:ony, he had
on a platter ;
ht get a long
nt, roweling
I still to keep
nner I main-
vhich I now
le steep bank

capital spurt^
d rely on his
twenty yards
' instinct, that
bank harder
In the twink-
elf, gave one
ised my gun,
n, making an

e Jack. He
gun, unfortu-
: lost sight of
igain. Rode
t twenty-two
en they took
The ground
y ; at length,

f down a pass
three lengths
; magnificent
Jack drew up
imp off, I got
J when I had

!i?t

^643)

644

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ffi-Uti

extricated my foot I had lost my bull I fired at a large black and tan
cow, and either missed her altogether or gave her a bad shot.

" It was Fine Work at Times."

In the middle of the chase I almost jumped into an ostrich nest, but I
could not think about eggs then. On returning to the wagons I heard
my horse Bryan was very sick ; he had wandered away from the wagons,
and we lost him, though I followed the trail till dark. I luckily heard
^rom two Kaffirs that they had seen a horse's trail on the path going bacK
!-:t the break of day. Inyous, one of my party, and myself started in the
direction the Kaffirs told us, and, thinking it not improbable we might
be away three or four days, I put a cap, box of salt, and a dry eland's
tongue in my pocket, and Inyous carried two pounds of beads. On
finding the trail eighteen hours gone, I pressed two Kaffirs from a kraal
near by into the service. It was fine work, at times, tracking him out.
We had many checks, and all spread out and made our casts in a most
systematic style, your humble servant hitting off the trail three times,
but Inyous and one Bushman Kaffir did the most of the hunting.

Once I had all but given him up on flinty, rocky ground: we cast
around in every direction for an hour and a half to no purpose, and fol-
lowed the trail for more than 300 yards on our hands and knees, the;
faintest imaginable track being all we had to guide us — a small stone dis-
placed or a blade of grass cut off; so we kept on till we again got to
sandy ground, when we took up the running four miles an hour, and
about midday we found him. I need not say how rejoiced I was to see

him.

The Plumed Ostrich.

Respecting the degree of intelligence displayed by the wild ostrich,,
the opinions of travellers are at variance, some ascribing to it the most
complete stupidity, and others giving it credit for unusual vivacity and
cunning. Livingstone evidently inclines to the former opinion. He
says, " It is generally seen feeding on some quiet spot where no one can
approach him without being detected by his wary eye. As the wagon
moves along far to the windward, he thinks it is intending to circumvent
him, so he rushes up a mile or so from the leeward, and so near to the
front oxen that one sometimes gets a shot at the silly bird. When he
begins to run, all the game in sight follow his example. I have seen
Been this folly taken advantage of when he was quietly feeding in a val-
ley open at both ends. A number of men would commence running as
if to cut off his retreat from the end through which the wind came, and
although he had the whole country, hundreds of miles, before him by

ack and tan

le we might.

Ls the wagon
o circumvent
near to the
\/hen he
I have seen
iing in a val-
e running as
id came, and
efore him by

fQ4S\

ill
'ft

646

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

going to the other end, on he madly rushed to get past the men, and so
was speared. He never swerves from the course he once adopts, but
only increases his speed."

In taking the eggs, the natives, if they wish to continue drawing on-
the nest, are obliged to use considerable caution. It is common enough,
even when the hatching period is close at hand, for the whole of the
proprietors of a nest to wander away from it in search of food, a circum-
stance that has doubtless given ground for the erroneous supposition
that the bird jn question leaves her eggs in the sand, trusting to the sun
for their vivification. When the native finds a nest of eggs so aband-
oned, he procures a long stick and rakes them out all but one or two ; it
this is managed cleverly, and the wind has been favorable, the bereaved
bird will neither scent the thief nor be aware of her loss, but go on lay-
ing for months, from June to October, supplying the Bushman with new-
laid eggs with the precision and regularity of the hens of our own farms
and homesteads

lug^eniouM Method for Getting Water.

Even the shell of the ostrich egg is an item of the utmost importance
in the domestic economy of the wandering Bushman. It provides him
with plates and dishes and drinking-cups, and, more important still, with
a convenient vessel in which to carry that first essential to existence,
water, across the vast and thirsty plains of Africa. The singular and
ingenious method of collecting water into these shells from the reedy
and shallow pools is thus graphically described by Dr. Livingstone:

" The constant dread of visits from strange tribes causes the Bat-
kalahari to choose their residence far from water, and they not unfre-
quently hide their supplies by filling the pits with sand and making a fire
over the spot. When they wish to draw water for use the women come
with twenty or thirty of their water-vessels in a bag or net on their
backs. The water-vessels consist of ostrich egg-shells, with a hole in
the end of each, such as would admit one's finger. The women tie a
bunch of grass to one end of a reed about two feet long, and insert it in a
hole as deep as the arm will reach ; then ram down the wet sand firmly
round it. Then applying the mouth to the thin end of the reed the)
form a vacuum in the grass beneath, in which the water collects, and in a
short time rises into the mouth. An egg-shell is placed on the ground
alongside the reed, some inches below the mouth of the sucker. A straw
guides the water into the hole of the vessel as she draws mouthful after
mouthful from below. The water is made to pass along the outside, nok
through the straw.

men, and so
adopts, but

; drawing oiv
[non enough,
(vhole of the
)d, a circum-
s supposition
ig to the sun
gs so aband-
ne or two ; ii
the bereaved
it go on lay-
an with new-
ur own farms

5t importance

provides him

ant still, with

to existence,

singular and

tn the reedy

igstone:

ses the Bat-

ey not unfre-

uaking a fire

vomen come

net on their

ith a hole in

women tie a

insert it in a

t sand firmly

he reed they

sets, and in a

the ground

er. A straw

louthful after

outside, not

C/3

H
n

tiiSr

648

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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i ■

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"An intelligent Bakvvain related to me how the Bushmen effectually
baulked a party of his tribe which lighted on their village in a state of
burning thirst. Believing, as he said, that nothing human could subsist
without water, they demanded some, but were coolly told by these
Bushmen that they had none, and never drank any. Expecting to find
them out, they resolved to watch them night and day. They persevered
for some days, thinking that at last the water must come forth; but, not-
A^ithstanding their watchfulness, kept alive by most tormenting thirst, the
Bakwains were compelled to exclaim, ' Yak ! yak ! these are not men ; let
us go.' Probably the Bushmen had been subsisting on a store hidden
underground, which had eluded the vigilance of their visitors."

Ostrlcli Chicks.

The newiy-hatched chicks are about as large as pullets, and as soon
as they escape from the shell are able to walk about and follow their
parents. The cock-bird, it seems, is just as able and certainly as willing to
take charge of his children as the hen. Dr. Livingstone says, " I have sev-
eral times seen newly-hatched young in the charge of the cock, who made
a very good attempt at appeariiig lame in the plover fashion, in order to
draw off the attention of pursuers. The young squat down and remain
immovable when too small to run far, but attain a wonderful degree of
speed when about the size of common fowls. The color of the ostrich
chick is a blending of gray and white, and harmonizes admirably with
the color of the plains it is m the habit of traversing. Its external cover-
ing at this stage of its existence is neither down nor feathers, but a sub-
stance more resembling the bristles of the hedgehog spread scantily
over its body."

Should a Bushman discover a nest when a long d'stance from home,
he is of course desirous of securing the precious eggs ; but how is he to
carry them ? Pockets he has not, he is equally barren of pocket-hand-
kerchief, and he does not invariably wear either a hat or a cap. Under
such circumstances, dear reader, you or I would just take one in caci;
hand and one under each arm, and walk off, regretting that we weie
unable to secure any more. But the Bushman has a " dodge " almost as
ngenious as it is unscrupulous. He takes off his trowscrs, tears a strip
off the waistband, secures the bottom of each leg therewith, and is at
once p'rovided with a commodious double bag which he fills with eggs,
and contentedly trots home with his bare legs scorching in the sun. The
Bushman has implicit confidence in powdered ostrich egg-shell as a pre-
ventive of eye diseases, and should his cattle be afflicted with strangury
he will grind up a bit of the potent shell, mix it with vinegar, pour it

I efifectually
in a state of
Duld subsist
d by these
:ting to find
' persevered
h; but, not-
g thirst, the
lot men ; let
tore hidden

and as soon
follow their
is willing to

I have sev-
:, who made

in order to
and remain
I degree of
the ostrich
irably with
rnal cover-
but a sub-
ad scantily

rom home,
ow is he to
icket-hand-
ip. Under
le in each
we weie
' almost as
sars a strip
1, and is at
with eggs,
; sun. The

II as a pre-
strangury

^ar, pour it

ill

(649)

660

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

n I

down the throat of the ox, and next morning the brute is sound again —
at least, so says the Bushman.

Although there are no authenticated instances on record of the ostrich
ever having eaten so indigestible a thing as a " great horse-shoe," the
obtuseness of taste displayed by the 'giant bird is very remarkable.
Methuen in his " Life in the Wilderness," when speaking of a female
ostrich that came under his immediate attention, says : " One day a Mus-
covy duck brought a promising brood of ducklings into the world, and
with maternal pride conducted them forth into the yard. Up with
solemn and measured strides marched the ostrich, and, wearing the most
mild, benignant cast of face, swallowed them all one after another like so
many oysters, regarding the indignant hissings and bristling plumage
of the hapless mother with stoical indifference."

Although it ha'i always been known that the ostrich could be domesti-
cated, it was not until within a comparatively recent period that this bird
was supposed to possess any utility. Now the world is wearing ostrich
feathers. These, which certainly are very graceful and attractive, are
sold in all the great markets of the world, and are worn very extensively.
Of course there is a fashion in feathers as there is in everything else, and
at certain periods there is a greater demand for ostrich plumes than at
others.

An attempt has been made in California to domesticate the ostrich^
and on a limited scale there' are farms on the Pacific coast for the pur-
pose of raising ostriches wit! - 'iew to obtaining their feathers. These
farms have been, so far, atten: .1 nth a good degree of success.

■» I'

CHAPTER XXVIII.
GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLOITERS.

Great Gorilla Hunter— Du Chaillu in the Jungles— First Gorilla Captured by a
White Man — Formidable Monster— Ghastly Charms— Battle with a Bull — Hunte:
Tossed on Sharp Horns— The Camma Tribe— A very Sick Man — Infernal-looking
Doctor— Snake Bones and Little Bells— Extraordinary Performance to Find the
Sorcerer — Huge Fraud — Andersson in Africa — Guides Lose Their Way — Lives of
the Whole Party at Stake — A Search for Water in All Directions— Necessity ot
ReturningWithout Delay— Two Men Exploring the Country for Water Left Be-
hind — Suffering of Men and Animals from Thirst— Grand and Appalling Confla-
gration—Magnificent Spectacle— Cattle One Hundred and Fifty Hours Without a
Single Drop of Water— Troop of Elephants— A Watch by Night— Wild Animals at
a Water Course— Battle Between a Lion and Lion Hunter — Dogs and Natives —
Exciting Huitting Scene— One Hundred Natives in the Field— Cameron in th»
Dark Continent — Illustrious Explorer— Expedition from Sea to Sea— Important
Discoveries — Agreement Between African Explorers— Stanley's Fame Assured.

PAUL B. DU CHAILLU has made himself famous, not only by
his travels extending into new and hitherto unknown regions, but
also by his adventures with the animals of the Tropics. Espec-
ially are we indebted to Du Chaillu for his graphic account of the
gorilla, and for the captures he made at the risk of his own life and the
lives of those who shared his exploits. This remarkable animal has
been made known to the world mainly by the thrilling accounts of Di>.
Chaillu.

The following is Du Chaillu's narrative of the capture of his first
gorilla :

Suddenly, as we were yet creeping along, in a silence which made a^
heavy breath seem loud and distinct, the woods were at once filled with
the tremendous barking roar of the gorilla.

Then the underbrush swayed rapidly just ahead, and presently before
us stood an immense male gorilla. He had gone through the jungle on
his all-fours ; but when he saw our party he erected himself and looked
us boldly in the face. He stood about a dozen yards from us, and was ;
sight I think never to forget. Nearly six feet high, at least so ap-
pearing, with immense body, huge chest, and great muscular arms, witb
fiercely-glaring large deep gray eyes, and a hellish expression of fac^
which seemed to me like some nightmare vision ; thus stood before us
this king of the African forests.

■ (651)

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^52

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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III'

He was not afraid of us. He stood there, and beat his breast with his
liuge fists till it resounded like an immense bass-drum, which is their
•mode of offering defiance : meantime giving vent to roar after roar.

The roar of the gorilla is the most singular and awful noise heard in
these African woods. It begins with a sharp bark, like an angry dog,
then glides into a deep bass roll, which literally and closely resembles the
roll of distant thunder along the sky, for which I have sometimes been
tempted to take it where I did not see the animal. So deep is it that it
seems to proceed less from the mouth and throat than from the deep
chest and vast paunch.

A Formidable Monster.

His eyes began to flash fiercer fire as we stood motionless on the defen-
sive, and the crest of short hair which stands on his forehead began to
twitch rapidly up and down, while his powerful fangs were shown as he
Again sent forth a thunderous roar. And now truly he reminded me of
nothing but some hellish dream creature — a being of that hideous order,
half man, half beast, which we find pictured by old artists in some repre-
sentations of the infernal regions. He advanced a few steps — then
stopped to utter that hideous roar again — advanced again, and finally
stopped when at a distance of about six yards from us. And here, as he
began another of his roars and beating his breast in rage, we fired and
Icilled him.

With a groan which had something terribly human in it, and yet was
full of brutishness, it fell forward on its face. The body shook convul-
sively for a few minutes, the limbs moved about in a struggling way,
and then all was quiet — death had done its work, and I had leisure to
examine the huge body. It proved to be five feet eight inches high, and
the muscular development of the arms and breast showed what immense
strength it had possessed.

My men, though rejoicing at our luck, immediately began to quarrel
about the apportionment of the meat — for they really eat this creature.
I saw that we should come to blows presently if I did not interfere, and
therefore said I should myself give each man his share, which satisfied
all. As we were too tired to return to our camp of last night, we deter-
mined to camp here on the spot, and accordingly soon had some shel-
ters erected and dinner going on. Luckily, one of the fellows shot a
-deer just as we began to camp, and on its meat I feasted while my men
ate gorilla.

I noticed that they very carefully saved the brain, and was told that
charms were made of this — charms of two kinds. Prepared in one way.

■Hii

;ast with his
ich is their
;r roar,
ise heard in
angry dog,
esembles the
letimes been
3 is it that it
»m the deep

on the defen-
;ad began to

and yet was
look convul-
iggUng way,
id leisure to
les high, and
hat immense

an to quarrel
this creature,
interfere, and
hich satisfied
ht, we deter-
i some shel-
2II0WS shot a
hile my men

was told that
in one way.

TERRIBLE COMBAT WITH A GORILLA.

1 '

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

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the charm gave the wearer a strong hand for the hunt, and in another it
gave him success with women. This evening we had again gorilla sto-
ries — but all to the same point already mentioned, that there are gorillas
inhabited by human spirits.

The young athletic Negroes, in their ivory hunts, well know the hab-
its of the gorilla. He does not, like the lion, sullenly retreat on seeing
them, but swings himself rapidly down to the lower branches, courting
the conflict, and clutches at the foremost of his enemies. The hideous
aspect of his visage, his green eyes with their glaring fire, his open
mouth and fierce-looking teeth, the savage hand-like claws which form
the end of his lower extremities, all render him an object of terror. When
he is pursued, as he is sometimes by daring natives who are his natural
enemies, he will defend himself with the utmost cdurage, and has been
known to attack his foes with indescribable fury.

Continuing his account of the adventures of the chase, -Du Chaillu
narrates what happened to one of his men. It is a wonder the poor
native did not lose his life.

Hunter Tossed by a Bull.

I started out early to try and get a shot at some buffalo which were
said to be in the prairie back of the town. Ifouta, a hunter, accompanied
me, and met with an accident through losing his presence of mind. We
had been out about an hour, when we came upon ;i bull feeding in the
midst of a little prairie surrounded by a wood which made our approach
easy. Ifouta walked around opposite to where I lay in wait, that if the
animal took alarm at him it might fly toward me ; and then began to
crawl, in the hunter fashion, through the grass toward his prey. All
went well till he came near enough for a shot. Just then, unluckily, the
bull saw him. Ifouta immediately fired. The gun made a long fire, and
he only wounded the beast, which, quite infuriated, as it often is at the
attack of hunters, immediately rushed upon him.

It was now that poor Ifouta lost his presence of mind. In such cases,
which are continually happening to those who hunt, the cue of the hun-
ter is to remain perfectly quiet till the beast is within a jump of him, then
to step nimbly to one side and let it rush past. But Ifouta got up
and ran.

Of course, in a moment the bull had him on his horns. It tossed
him high into the air once, twice, thrice, ere I could run up, and,
by my shouts, draw its fury to myself Then it came rushing at me.
But my guns do not hesitate, and, as I had a fair shot, I killed it
•without trouble.

I another it
gorilla sto-
are gorillas

3W the hab-
it on seeing
es, courting
rhe hideous
e, his open
which form
:rror. When
: his natural
id has been

Du Chaillu
der the poor

t which were
iccompanied
■ mind. We
eding in the
►ur approach
t, that if the
ten began to
s prey. All
nluckily, the
ong fire, and
ften is at the

1 such cases,

of the hun-=

of him, then

buta got up

IS. It tossed
run up, and,
shing at me.
I killed it

TM.

(665)

656

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

•M!' 1,

:im

Ifouta proved to be considerably bruised, but, on the whole, more
scared than hurt ; and when I had washed him off in a creek near by, he
was able to walk home.

When Du Chaillu was among the tribe called Camma, he had a curi-
ous experience with a doctor who was celebrated for detecting evil spir-
its and healing the sick. He says :

Ishungui, the man who had faithfully taken care of my house, lay at
death's door. He had gone out on a fishing excursion, caught cold, and
had now a lung fever. I knew when I saw him that he must die, and
tried to prepare his mind for the change. But his friends by no means
gave him up. They sent for a distinguished doctor, and under his aus-
pices began the infernal din with which they seek to cure a dying
man.

Infernal Looking Doctor.

The Camma theory of disease is that Okamboo (the devil) has got
into the sick man. Now this devil is only to be driven out with noise,
and accordingly they surround the sick maii and beat drums and kettles
close to his head ; fire off guns close to his ears ; sing, shout, .and dance
all they can. This lasts till the poor fellow either dies or is better —
unless the operators become tired out first, for the Camma doctors either
kill or cure.

Ishungui died. He left no property, and his brother buried him with-
out a :oflfin in a grave in the sand, so shallow that, when I chanced upon
it some days after, I saw that the wild beasts had been there and eaten
the cc.pse. The mourning lasted but six days; and, as there were no
wives or property, so there was no feast. The relatives of the deceased
slept one night in his house, as a mark of respect ; and then all that
remained was to discover the person who had beVitched the dead man.
For that a young man, generally healthy, should die so suddenly in
course of nature was by no means to be believed.

A canoe had been dispatched up to the lake to bring down a great
doctor. They brought one of the chief's sons, a great rascal, who had
been foremost in selling me an idol, and who was an evident cheat.
When all was ready for the trial, I went down to look at the doctor, who
looked literally " like the devil." I never saw a more ghastly object.
He had on a high head-dress of black feathers. His eyelids were painted
red, and a red stripe, from the nose upward, divided his forehead in two
parts. Another red stripe passed round his head. The face was painted
white, and on each side of the mouth were two round red spots. About
his neck hung a necklace of grass and also a cord, which held a box

'hole, more
near by, he

had a curi-
ig evil spir-

Duse, lay at
it cold, and
ist die, and
y no means
der his aus-
ire a dying

i^il) has got
with noise,

and kettles

:, and dance
is better —

ctors either

d him with-
anced upon
i and eaten
;re were no
le deceased
hen all that
; dead man.
uddenly in

own a great
il, who had
ident cheat,
doctor, who
Lstly object,
vere painted
lead in two
was painted
3ts, About
held a box

658

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

"r!w , •!

fd-' 'i'^^'

against his breast. This little box is sacred, and contains spirits. A
number of strips of leopard and other skins crossed his breast and were
exposed about his person ; and all these were charmed, and had charms
attached to them. From each shoulder down to his hands was a white
stripe, and one hand was painted quite white. To complete this horrible
array, he wore a string of little bells around his body.

A Hugre Fraiid.

He sat on a box or stool, before which stood another box containing
charms. On this stood a looking-glass, beside which lay a buffalo-horn
containing some black powder, and said, in addition, to be the refuge of
many spirits. He had a little basket of snake-bones, which he shook
frequently during his incantations ; as also several skins, to which little
bells were attached. Near by stood a fellow beating a board with two
sticks. All the people of the village gathered about this couple, who,
after continuing their incantations for quite a while, at last came to the
climax. A native was told to call over the names of persons in the vil-
lage, in order that the doctor might ascertain if any one of those named
did the sorcery. As each name was called the old cheat looked in the
glass to see the result.

"^uring the whole operation I stood near him, which seemed to trouble
him greatly. At last, after all the names were called, the doctor declared
that he could not find any " witch-man," but that an evil spirit dwelt in
the village, and many people would die if they continued there. I have
a suspicion that this final judgment with which the incantations broke up
was a piece of revenge upon me. I had no idea till next day how seri-
ously the words of one of these Ouganga doctors is taken.

The next morning all was excitement. The people were scared : they
said their chief was not willing to have them live longer here ; that he
would kill them, etc. Then began the removal of all kinds of property
and the tearing down of houses ; and by nightfall I was actually left alone
in my house with my boys, both of whom were anxious to be off.

Adventures of Andersson.

Another explorer who has gained a world-wide fame and deserves tc
be ranked with such heroes as Stanley, Emin Pasha, Speke and Grant,
and others, is Andersson, who gives us a graphic account of his travels.
Several of his remarkable experiences we here reproduce, and the reader
will doubtless confirm the opinion that these are of special interest. One
extraordinary part of his travels in the Tropics relates to the privations
and sufferings which he and his party underwent from lack of water.
The reader must remember that travellers in the Tropics very often suffer

led to trouble
ctor declared
lirit dwelt in
lere. I have
Diis broke up
ay how seri-

GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLORERS.

669

from extreme thirst. Andersson's experience in this respect is one of

the most remarkable on record. The following is his vivid account of it:

On the second evening, or on the third after leaving Okaoa, I saw the

guides suddenly halt and look about them, as if undecided how to pro-

A STRUGGLE FOR LIFE.

ceed. They had a short time previously declared that we should reach
water that night. My suspicions were therefore at once aroused, or
rather my heart misgave me. " Surely," I. muttered to myself, " the fel-
lows are trying to deceive us, or they have lost their way ! " The one
conjecture was as bad as the other. For a few seconds I remained

j^^i

ill

ii pi

660

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Kh.

■■:vi

Irfv,! i

silent; but, seeing them still wavering, I advanced, and in a voice tremh-
ling with rage and distress, thundered out, " Where is the water, men ? "
adding, with my fowling-piece presented at the head of the acting guide,
" If you don't bring us to water before noon to-morrow, you die Pro-
ceed."

It sooit became obvious, however, that they had lost themselves, avid
that, under such circumstances, threats would only tend still more ta
confuse them. I consequently, as they were wandering to and fro like
men groping in the dark, r.nd the night was fast closing upon us„
sounded a halt to bivouac. That night was perhaps the most painful
one in my life. I felt most keenly that not only the issue of the under-
taking, but the "ives of my party, wcie at stake. The agony I suffered
is indescribable; yet, lest I should frighten my attendants, I did not
betray the deep emotions that agitated me. They had, nevertheless,,
already taken the alarm ; dismay — nay, despair — was depicted on every
countenance, but, be it said to their credit, not a murmur escaped them.
Supposing the place we were in search of should not be found, the
nearest water, Okaoa, was three long days' journey off. Could this
place be reached in safety in our present weak state ? I dared scarcely
answer the question. The possible answer seemed too awful to dwell
upon.

Lost in the Wilderness.

Sleep was that night, of course, out of the question, and before break
of day I was in the saddle in search of water, having first dispatched
three different parties on the same errand in as many directions, I
returned to the camp after eight hours' sharp riding and walking, my
horse completely done up — unsuccessful ! My approach was vv^atched
by the men at the wagon with feverish anxiety ; there was no need of
words; my face told but too plainly my complete failure. One of my
men who had also been absent on a similar mission, soon joined us^
equally successless. Two parties were still absent, and on their effo; ts
rested now all our hopes ; but hour after hour elapsed without any news
The sun set, yet no men. The shadows of evening crept upon us, yet no-
men. The moon rose, yet no men.

Our anxiety was at its height. Had the men found the water, or had
they lost themselves in this fearful and death-boding wilderness ? Should
I wait for the return of daylight before finally deciding on what course
to pursue, or should I face back at once ? These and many others were
the distracting thoughts that crowded in rapid succession on my giddy
brain. The delay of a night would occasion the loss of another day, and

m&> .

Dice tremh-
:er, men ? "
ting guide,

die Pro-
selves, avid
il more to
ind fro like
upon us^
lost painful

the undcr-
y I suffered
, I did not
evertheless,.
ed on every
:aped them.
I found, the

Could this
ed scarcely
ful to dwell

efore break
: dispatched
rections. I
I'alking, my
as vv^atched
no need o(
One of my
n joined us^
their effoits
it any news
m us, yet no

ater, or had
;ss ? Should
what course
others were
Dn my giddy
her day, and

:i *

(661)

Eff»v f *

662

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

f.,11

i'''*.,

"> , ik' « t il

then, just suppose the absent parties unsuccessful in finding water, what
would be the result ? Apparently inevitable destruction.

Terrible SufTerings.

The oxen had now been four days without water, and their distress
was already very great. Their hollow flanks, drooping heads, and low
melancholy moans, uttered at intervals, told but too plainly their misery,
and went to my heart like daggers. My poor horse was no longer an
animated creature, but a spectre of himself — a gaunt, staggering skeleton.
The change that had come upon him during the last twenty-four hours
was incredible. From tim.e to time he would put his head into the
wagon, into anyone's hands, and, looking wistfully and languidly into
his face, would reproachfully (his looks conveyed as much) seem to say,
" Cruel man, don't you see I am dying ; why don't you relieve my burn-
. ing thirst? " The dogs, again, ceased to recognize my caresses. Their
eyes were so deeply sunken in their sockets as to be scarcely per-
ceptible. They glided about in spectral silence; death was in their
faces. The wagon was heavily laden, the soil exceedingly heavy, the
sun in the daytime like an immense burning-glass, and the oppressive-
ness of the atmosphere was greatly increased by the tremendous fires,,
which, ravaging the country far and wide, made it like a huge fiery
furnace.

Under such circumstances the oxen could never hold o»it for seven
days — the time which must, I calculated, elapse before I could reach
Okaoa — without water! Well, then, with all these ominous facts and
forebodings before me, would it be advisable to await the return of the
absent men ? A few moments of anxious self-communion determined
me not to do so, but to retrace my steps without farther delay. This res-
olution was, of course, the death-blow to the expedition. Before starting
on our backward course I fired a number of sho'cs, which received no
answer, to attract the notice of the absentees.

Appalling- Spectacle.

I had yet a small supply of water in the wagon, having taken the pre-
caution at starting to take the entire stock under my immediate charge.
I now served out a few mouthfuls to each individual, left a small quan-
tity, together with a few biscuits, on a bush for the absent men, should
they find their way back, and then began the return journey at a brisk
pace, but with a heavy heart.

Health and strength, time and the season, had been thus wasted and
lost, heavy pecuniary sacrifices made, the life of men and valuable beasts
jeopardized, bright prospects blighted, and all — all to so little purposel

iter, what

ir distress
, and low.
iir misery,
longer an
y skeleton,
four hours

1 into the
;uidly into
em to say,

2 my burn-
;es. Their
ircely per-
s in their
heavy, the
appressive-
idous fires,
huge fiery

; for seven
Duld reach
i facts and
urn of the
determined
This res-
3re starting
eceived no

zn the pre-
ite charge,
mall quan-
len, should
^ at a brisk

ivasted and
lable beasts
e purposel

^•^^^^Wj,^;;-^^

t'lk

iilll

■^^^

SOUTH AFRICAN KANGAROOS.

{M9)

664

WONDERS OF THE TROPiCS.

My feelings on this memorable occasion may be more easily imagined
than described.

We had proceeded but a comparatively short distance, and were just
escaping out of a thorn-thicket when we were suddenly startled by a
grand, but to us appalling sight.

The whole country before us was one huge lake of flames. Turning
to one of the natives, I exclaimed, " Good God, our return is cut
off 1 " I had seen many wood and grass fires, but nothing to equal
this. Immediately in front of us lay stretched out like a sea a vast pas-
ture prairie, dotted with occasional trees, bounded in the distance by
groves of huge giraffe thorns, all in a blaze ! Through the very midst of

this lay our path. By delaying a few
hours the danger would have been con-
siderably diminished, if not altogether
over ; but delay in our case seemed al-
most more dangerous than going for-
ward, and so on we pushed, trusting to
some favorable accident to bring us
through the perils we had to face.

As we advanced we heard distinctly
the sputtering and hissi ig of the in-
flamed grasses and brushwood, the
cracking of the trees as they reluctantly
yielded their massive forms to the unre-
lenting and all-devouring element, the
screams of startled birds and other com-
mingling sounds of terror and devasta-
tion. There was a great angle in our road,
running parallel, as it were, to the raging fire, but afterward turning abruptly
into a burning savanna By the time we had reached this point, the con-
flagration, still in its glory on our right, was fast receding on our left, thus
opening a passage, into which we darted without hesitation, although the
ground was still smouldering and reeking, and in some places quite alive
with flickering sparks from the recent besom of hot flames that had swept

over it

Tired as our cattle were, this heated state of the ground made the poor
brutes step out pretty smartly. At times we ran great risk of being
crushed by the falling timbers. Once a huge trunk, in flames from top
to bottom, fell athwart our path, sending up millions of sparks, and scat-
tering innumerable splinters of lighted wood all around us, while the

WARKIOR WITH BATTLE-AXE.

GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLORERS.

66ff

fiumerous nests of the social grossbeaks in the ignited trees looked like
so many lamps suspended in designs at once natural, pleasing, and splen-
did. It was altogether a glorious illumination, worthy of Nature's pal-
ace with its innumerable windows and stately vaulted canopy. But the
<langer associated with the grand spectacle was too great and too immi-
nent for us thoroughly to appreciate its magnificence. Indeed, v/e were
really thankful when once our backs
were turned on the awful scene.

At break of day we halted for a few
minutes to breathe and to change
oxen, then continued to journey on.
1 dispatched all the loose cattle ahead,
^ving the men orders to return with
a fresh team as soon as they had
drunk, fed, and rested a little. We
arrived at the ravine a little before
midnight, but on attemping to kraal
the oxen, notwithstanding their fa-
tigue, the thirsty brutes leaped over
the stout and tall thorn fences as if
they had been so many rushes, and
with a wild roar set off at full speed
for Okaoa fountain, which they
reached the following day, having
then been more thrn one hundred and
fifty hours without a single drop of
water I

Before reaching the water the men
tn charge of the loose cattle had be-
come so exhausted with long and in-
cessant marching, suffering all the
time from burning thirst, that one by
one they had sunk down. The cat-
tle, unherded, found their way to the fountain without much difficulty;,
but the wretched horse missed his, and kept wandering about until he
dropped from sheer exhaustion. Some natives fortunately found the
brute, and reporting the discovery to *;heir chief, he good-naturedly
brought the dying beast some drink and fodder, by which means
he gradually recovered. The animal, when found, had been seven
<lays without water. I had no idea that a horse was capable of

CARVED IVORY TRUMPETS.

!■.!

■ ^1

I III

1 ■

!■

■ , I'

666

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

M'p'

lii;

ll;

; f

enduring fatigue and thirst to the extent experienced by this hack of
mine.

The poor dogs were by this time in a fearful state. What was once a
clear perspicuous eye now appeared like a mere lustrous speck under a
shaggy brow. Blood flowed at times from their nostrils , and it was
with difficulty they dragged along their worn and emaciated carcasses.
Sometimes they tried to give vent to their great sufierings in dismal
howls, half stifled in the utterance.

Some of the men were nearly as much al-
fected. One was more than once speechless
from thirst, and it was quite pitiful to see him»
like a man despairing of life, chew old coffee-
tobacco and withered tea-leaves. For my own
part, I am thankful to say I suffered on this try-
ing occasion, in a bodily sense at least, less per-
haps than the rest of my party.

The day after our arrival at the water-course
the lost men suddenly and unexpectedly made
^ their appearance, and, to my great surprise, I
learned that they had accidentally stumbled
upon the very water we had so long searched
for in vain. In retracing their steps to the
wagon to report the good news they had unfor-
tunately lost their way, and, after a fruitless
search, were obliged to bivouac on t ...e waste.
Like myself, they had repeatedly discharged
guns, but as this was done long after dark, it is
probable the wagon had by that time taken its
departure, so that their signals were unheard
and unanswered.

On the eighth day, laie in the evening, I
reached Okaoa in safety, without the loss of a
single man or beast, all, however, being in a dreadful state of prostration,
not only from fatigue and hardship, but from torn and lacerated feet.
This, coupled with the impossibility of procuring trustworthy guides,
with the evident dearth of water, the absence of game, and many other
formidable hinderances, induced me to face homeward without any
further delay than was necessary to recruit in a measure the strength and
vigor of bipeds and quadrupeds.

By a careful computation, I found that the distance was 115 hours*^

CHIEF WITH REMARKABLE
GOATEE.

this hack of

GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLORERS.

667

actual travel, which is equivalent to 300 English miles in round numbers^
while in our last two fruitless attempts to push northward we had trriv-
elled one hundred and twenty hours, that is, about three hundred and
thirty English miles — a distance more than sufficient to have brought us
to the Cunene — nay, there and back again — had we been able to hold
our course directly for that river.

If I had been travelling in the North of Africa, for instance, crossing
the Nubian Desert, I could have availed myself of an animal that under
goes privation arising from want of water better than horses or oxen.
The camel is celebrated for its endurance. It seems to be constructed

CAMEL OF ARABIA.

for the purpose of carrying sufficient water to last it for a number of
days. It can drink and then go a long time without any apparent incon-
venience. The Arabs, who cross tropical deserts, also have a way of
carrying water in skin bags, which, although not very palatable after a
number of days' journey, is, nevertheless, better than none at all. The
accompanying engraving shows a traveller in the desert leading his
camel, and among the various articles with which the beast is loaded, we
may be sure there is a supply of water.

Andersson mentions another remarkable animal, sometimes sought by
the hunter : Wild boars were rather numerous along the Omuramba, and
frequently afforded us excellent coursing. The speed of these animals is

^68

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'^'^

surprisingly great. On open ground, when fairly afoot, I found the dogs
no match for them, and yet some of my curs were rather swift of foot.
The dogs, nevertheless, dodged them at times successfully ; at others

TRAVELLER AND CAMEL CROSSING THE DESERT.

they came willingly to bay. They fight desperately. I have seen wild
boars individually keep off most effectually half a dozen fierce assailants.
I have also seen them, when hotly pursu^ed, attack and severely wound
their pursuers. We killed occasionally two, and even three of them, io

]5! ;i

und the dogs
■ swift of foot,
lly ; at others

L^iWMi

'•-iniuX

.**^-

have seen wild
lerce assailants,
leverely wound
ree of them, in

^ J

hJ*:

I it

M« «i

1*A>«)

(669)

670

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the course of a day. When young and fat they proved capital eating,
and from their novelty were quite a treat.

Other game was almost daily secured, and my party gorged to their
hearts' content on animal food. Indeed, we had plenty to spare. The
animals we usually killed were a kind that can abstain long from drink-
ing, for water is exceedingly scarce in this country — so much so that it
was only with very great difficulty we could obtain a sufficiency for our
cattle.

One night I encounted a troop of lions under circumstances which
exhibited these royal beasts in a somewhat new light.

In the early part of the night I had observed several animals gliding
noiselessly to the water, but considerably out of range. Not being able
to make out what they were, I slipped quietly out, and approached
the spot where they were drinking. I got, from the nature of
the ground, pretty close to them unperceived, yet was still unable to
name them. From the sound of lapping at the water, I concluded that
I had hyenas before me, and as one of three animals was leaving the
water-way I fired. The bullet took effect, and, uttering a growl, the beast
disappeared. Whereupon, " Surely not lions ! " I muttered to myself
The remaining two had in the mean time also, ceased drinking, and were
moving lazily away, when a low shrill whistle from me at once arrested
their steps.

I leveled and pulled the trigger ; in vain this time, the ball went too
high — in short, right over the object aimed at. The animal did not,
however, budge an inch, and I now clearly saw a lion. Rising to my
feet, I shouted, in order to drive him off; but he remained stationary. I
did not at all like his appearance, and hastened at once back to my
ambush to reload. When again quite ready and on the look-out for
him, he was gone ; but almost immediately afterward two others resem-
bling the first approached the water. Having drunk their fill, they were
about to retrace their steps, when suddenly — my person being purposely
exposed to view — they seemed to espy me, and eyeing me for a few
seconds, one — the largest — made straight for my ambush.

An Excitingf Duel.

fhis seemed strange ; but, to make quite sure of his intentions, I stood
up, and when the brute was within about forty yards of me, shouted. To
my utter surprise, instead of moving off he came quickly on, till at a dis-
tance of twenty-five paces or thereabouts he suddenly squatted, evidently
intending to spring on me. " Nay, old fellow," I muttered to myself, " if
that's the ticket, I will be even with you ; " and, dropping the double

istances which

inimals gliding
Not being able
nd approached
the nature of
still unable to
concluded that
as leaving the
growl, the beast
ered to myself,
king, and were
: once arrested

(671)

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672

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

barreled gun which I held in my hands at the moment, I seized the ele*
phant rifle, leveled, took a very steady aim at his chest, and fired. The
bullet sped true, and I thought I had killed him outright ; but not so^
for after rolling over two or three times, he scrambled up and decamped.
However, I had no doubt in my own mind that the wound would prove
^atal. On receiving the shot he gave a startling growl, and in making
his escape was joined by his associate, who had, while the duel was pend-
ing, remained a passive spectator.

Death in the Jungle.

At break of day, taking up the trail of the wounded animal, I had only
proceeded about two hundred yards when the dogs gave tongue at a
small bush, where immediately afterward I saw a stately lion rise to his
feet and limp forward two or three paces. But the exertion was too
much for him ; he halted, and, turning half round, looked fiercely at his
assailants. Not being myself in a favorable position, I shouted to my
men to fire.

One responded to the call, and the lion dropped to rise no more. In
an instant the dogs were clinging to his ears, throat, and head. The
brute, still alive, grappled bravely with his assailants. The next moment
half a dozen spears were quivering in his body, and a hundred more or
so would soon have been similarly sheathed had I not promptly ridden
up and stopped the natives, who were rushing in upon the prostrate foe
like nianiacs. I wished the dogs to finish him, and they did so ; but three
of the best were wounded in the scuffle, only one, however, at all seri-
ously. The aim which had killed this lion had been most perfect. The
bullet had entered exactly the centre of his chest, and, traversing the
entire length of his body, had taken its egress through the right hind
quarter. It was really, therefore, to me a matter of great surprise that
the beast had survived the wound so long.

This xas decidedly the most exciting hunting scene I have ever wit-
nessed. Besides my own people, more than one hundred natives were
»n the field, vociferating frightfully, and waving and darting their ox-tail
plumaged spears with a ferocity and earnestness that would have made
a stranger think they were preparing for some dreadful battle.

Cameron's !Expedltlon.

Another name on the illustrious roll of tropical heroes is that of
Cameron. Cameron shares the distinction with Stanley of having
crossed the Dark Continent from sea to sea. His expedition was a
remarkable illustration of perseverance and heroic endurance. His route
lay through Central Africa, and the reader has probably been made

GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLORERS.

673

aware of the fact that this is the most interesting portion of the Dark
Continent, for the reason that it is the portion which has been explored
the least, and also from the fact that it contains the sources of the Nile.

The problem of many centuries has been " Where does the Nile rise?"
This question has been asked by scientific societies, by individual ex-
plorers and by the world in general. It was very natural that Speke

>-. I

4»

•^'^"tv

674

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

and Grant, Stanley and Livingstone, and then Cameron should make
this region the field of observation and exploit. Baker started from
Cairo and came south through the White Nile Valley. His name is
associated with the Soudan and the regions adjacent. It was left for
Cameron to place his name beside that of Stanley by making an expedi '
tion from one ocean to the other. This he did, and accompanying this
sketch of his achievements is an accurate map showing the region he
traversed.

Cameron has rendered important service to physical science and
geography. His discoveries have been of a very important character,
and these have only confirmed the discoveries which were made before
his expedition and since. In facc it is noticeable that the great African
explorers who have traversed realms widely apart and^hen have been

REGION EXPLORED BY CAMERON.

brought together at some point of conjunction, have agreed almost per-
fectly concerning the physical characteristics Oi the continent. While
jealousy has, of course, been excited on the part of their friends, and
many absurd claims have been made, the men themselves have been
comparatively free from this petty spirit.

Stanley was doubted, was called in question, and there were those who
at first disbelieved that he had ever seen Livingstone, but when they came
to obtain the evidence of his wonderful triumph, which could not be
denied, they gracefully yielded and gave to him the unqualified praise he
deserved. From this time on Stanley's fame was assured ; no oner
doubted that he was the foremost hero of the age in tropical discovery.

: I'! ^4.:!^

?hould make
started from
His name is
was left for
ig an expedi
ipanying this
the region he

science and
ant character,
e made bifore

great African
len have been

P T ^

, Mnali^l,

IT" *" - ■'

;ed almost per-
tinent. While

:ir friends, and
ves have been

were those who
vhen they came
h could not be
alified praise he
sured ; no oner
pical discovery.

m '

r ) I

5«y/

CHAPTER XXIX.
THE CELEBRATED EMIN PASHA.

A Remarkable Man— Last of the Heroes of the Soudan— Birth of Emin Pasha- Early
Education— Charmed with the Life of an Explorer— Determined to Visit Africa-
Acquaintance with "Chinese" Gordon— Gordon's High Estiniateof Emin— Emin
Appointed to an Important Position— Governor of the Equatorial Province—DiflR
culties of the Situation— Strong Hand and Iron Will Required for the Natives—
Emin's Very Irregular Troops— Marvellous Success of Emin's Government— A
Large Deficit Changed to an Immense Profit— Construction of New Roads — Vil
lages Rebuilt— Immense Improvements Everywhere— Emin's Devotedness lo his
Great Undertaking— Wonderful Tact and Perseverance-Great Anxiety for Kmin—
Speculations Concerning His Situation— Resolve to Send an Expedition— Stanley
Called upon for a Great Achievement.

7IT^ come now to the world-renowned Emin Pasha, whose career
ITI in Africa for the past few years has awakened the interest of
both hemispheres. Emin Pasha is the last of the heroes of
the Soudan, and among the list, including the name of
" Chinese " Gordon, must be reckoned some of the world's most dazzling
names. '

Mr. Stanley's last expedition in Africa was planned for the relief of
Emin Pasha. Emin had been appointed governor of a vast region, and
with wonderful spirit and courage had undertaken his work. For a
long period of time it was feared and. believed that he was having a
desperate struggle in his great undertaking, and consequently the gov-
ernment of Belgium was especially interested in ascertaining what was
his situation and what could be done for his relief in case he were in
straits. Of course Henry M. Stanley was the man to plunge again into
the heart of Africa on such an important mission as this.

It will interest the reader to have some account of the celebrated
Emin Pasha, who, divested of his Oriental title, is none other than
Edward Schnitzer. We condense his biography from a history of him by
his friend and fellow-traveller, Robert W. Felkin, of Edinburgh, Scotland,

Emin Pasha forms at the present time the central point around which
all the interest in Central Africa revolves, and now that it is generally
known that the Arabic name " Emin " is only a cognomen chosen by a
German, curiosity is aroused, and people are making all kinds of specu-
lations as to his birthplace.

(675)

I j«

676

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Edward Schnitzer was born on the 28th of March, 1840, in Oppeln, in
the Prussian province of Silesia. He is the son of the late Ludwi«>
Schnitzer and his wife Pauline. His father was a merchant. After bein<>^
educated in the Gymnasium of Neisse, Edward Schnitzer commenced the
study of medicine in 1858 at the Breslau University. He completed his
medical education at the University of Berlin, graduating in 1864.

EMIN PASHA (dr. SCHNITZEr).

In 1875 Dr. E. Schnitzer paid a visit to his family in Neisse, devoting
his leisure hours to the study of Natural History. Suddenly the desire
for iivel came over him again; and, in 1876, we find himer'-eringthe Egyp-
tian service. He was ordered to join the Governor-General of the Soudan
at Khartoum, and was sent to act as chief medical officer in the Equatorial
Province of Egypt, of which Gordon was then Governor.

Gordon was the very one to value a man like Emin, and to use to the

THE CELEBRATED EMIN PASHA.

677

full his gifts and powers. He sent him on tours of inspection through
the districts which had been annexed to Egypt, and employed him upon
several diplomatic missions. In March, 1878, after Gordon Pasha had
been appointed Governor-General of the Soudan, Dr. Emin Effendi
received from him the appointment of Governor of the Equatoriiil
Province, which post he has occupied up to the present time.

In order to form, to some extent at least, a just estimate of what Emiu
Pasha has accomplished during the past few years, it is very necessary
to consider briefly his work as a Governor.

When Gordon Pasha left the Equatorial Province of Egypt to become,
a few months later, the Governor-General of the whole Soudan, he left it
well organized and peaceful. Its financial position was not so satis-
factory, for the province labored under an excessive debt, caused in part
by the initial expenses of its occupation, and also by sums not justly
belonging to it having been debited to it by various Governors of the
Soudan, sometime^ with the object of freeing their special province from
inconvenient debts, and sometimes in order to cook their own accounts,
which were not always in a flourishing condition.

A Beggarly Crowd.
After Gordon Pasha left for the wider sphere of work, his place was
at first filled by Colonels Prout and Mason, who, however, only held
office for a few months, as they both had to retire on account of til
health. Then followed a succession of incompetent native Governors,
under whose abominable rule the province rapidly deteriorated to a piti-
able condition. Oppression, injustice, brutality, and downright robbery
grew like the upas tree, and it was under these conditions that Emin
was entrusted by Gordon with the reins of office.

Up to this time, Emin had been the surgcon-in-chief of the Equatorial
Province ; he had often travelled throughout its length and breadth in
company with his chief, Gordon, from whom he had learnt much, and
whose work he so much admired. During this time he became inti-
mately acquainted with native character, and was entrusted by Gordon
with three very difficult diplomatic missions — two visits to Uganda and
one to Unyoro. This, however, was all the experience he had had when
placed in power, and at first his difficulties were gre tly increased by
want of a definite rank, for, although appointed Governor, no rank had
been given to him on account of the intrigues of some Khartoum
officials.

The state of his province in 1878, when he accepted the post of Gov-
ernor, is difficult to describe in a few words. The population consisted ol

'i!

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678

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

,v r

M''

numerous and varied tribes, who, having once experienced the beneficent
rule of Gordon, had suffered greatly from the oppression and cruelty of
his successors, and there was also a scattered population throughout the
country, consisting of former slave-dealers and many of their late
employes, who were settled in small fortified villages over the land. The
oflficials, too, for the most part, were disreputable men ; the greater num-
ber of them were criminals, who had been banished from Egypt, and
after undergoing their sentences, had been taken into Government
employ. .

The Egyptian soldiers were very unreliable, and their acts of oppression
were resented by the natives, and tended to bring about continual fric-
tion between the Administration and die mass of the population. Some
of Emin's "regulars" were very irregular. Added to all this, many of
the stations themselves required rebuilding, and a block in the Nile pre-
vented all supplies being sent to the Equatorial Province for the first two
years of Emin's rule. It is not to be wondered at, therefore, that the
cares of government rested heavily upon him. Constant journeys had to
be made, daily complaints arrived from all sider of difficulties between
offiQials and native chiefs, and a continual round of stated duties filled up
his time from sunrise to sunset. Many a man would have shrunk from
undertaking the responsibility of inducing order out of such chaos. Not

so Emin Pasha. •

Wonderful Clianges.

Slowly but firmly, and with ever-increasing success, he became mas-
ter of the situation, and when I passed through his province ,he second
time, in 1879, a most wonderful change had taken place. Stations had
been rebuilt, discontent was changed into loyal obedience, corruption had
been put down, taxation was equalized, and he had already begun the
task of clearing the province from the slave-dealers who infested it. This
was a difficult and dangerous undertaking, for they had rooted them-
selves very firmly in the soil, and most of the officials in Emin's employ
were in full sympathy with them. Emin was entirely alone ; no friend
or helper Was near. Indeed, with the exception of a few months when
Lupton Bey was his second in command, he has been alone from the day
o( his appointment in March, 1878, until the present time.

By the end of 1882, Emin Bey (for he received that title at the end of
1879) hud the satisfaction of being able to report that his province was
ill a state of peace and contentment. Ke had got rid of nearly all the
H^gyptian soldiers, replacing them by natives whom he had trained to
arms. He had added large districts to h'.s province, not by the use of Sac

beneficent
cruelty of
ighout the
their Ijtte
land. The
eater num*
^gypt, and
rovernment

oppression
tinual fiic-
!on. Some
is, many of
e Nile pre-
he first two
re, that the
neys had to
es between
ies filled up
lirunk from
chaos. Not

came mas-
,he second
ations had
ruption had
begun the
ed it. This
)Oted them-
in's employ
no friend
onths when
"rom the day

It the end of
>rovince was
;arly all the
1 trained to
ic use of i-Iie

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WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

• !* '

sword, but by personal negotiation with native chiefs. . To all this must
be added the cultivation of cotlon, of indigo, of coffee and rice, theestab
tishment of a regular weekly post through his dominions, the rebuilding
of nearly all his stations, the construction of better and more permanent
roads, the introduction of camels, and the transport of goods by oxen ;
and last, but not least, he was able in that year to show a net profit of
$40,CXD0, whereas on his taking up the reins of government, there was a
Jeficit ot 5 160,000 per annum. The commercial value of the province
nay be estimated by this successful state of affairs, which was brought
about notwithstanding the fact that during the six years, 1878-84, only
nine steamers had been sent from Khartoum to Lado, and only six of
these had carried supplies. , ,

A Remarkable Character.

From the 8th of October, 1878, the day on which I first met Emin
Pasha, up to the present time, my admiration and respect for him have
steadily increased. It is impossible to become thoroughly acquainted
with anyone in a very short time, but perhaps the best chance of getting
to know a man's character quickly is afforded by a meeting such as I
experienced with Emin Pasha in the heart of Africa, and shut off com-
pletely from the civilized world. Under such circumstances, if they
possess any points in common, men are rapidly drawn together; and
there is certainly a wonderful keenness of enjoyment in such intercourse,
contrasting as it does so completely with the isolation, often experienced
for months or years together, by men whose work lies in such remote
regions as that which Emin Pasha has made his home.

A striking trait of his character which called forth my admiration was
his unselfishness. His whole heart seemed to be centred in the welfare
of his people and the advancement of science, and no idea of fame appeared
to enter his mind. His interest, too, in the work being done by others
seemed to be quite as keen as that he took in his own.

Emin's dealings with the natives are worthy of notice. He has always
been patient in the extreme with them ; he has a high opinion both of
their intelligence and their capabilities ; he respects their peculiarities,
iheir modes of thought, and their beliefs, and the influence which he is
able to exert upon native chiefs is very re'^iarkable. His dealings witli
Mtesa and Kabrega were characterized, not only by a keen sense 0'
justice, but also by a thorough appreciation of their various needs.
Mtesa had the highest respect for him, and qn several occasions he
expressed to me his appreciation of the way in which Emin had pre-
served his independence, when it was threatened by the injudicious

11 this must
:e, the estab-
2 rebuilding
e permanent
Is by oxen ;
net profit of
there was a
:he province
rvas brought
378-84, only
1 only six of

St met Emin
or him have
y acquainted
ce of getting
ng such as I
hut off coni-
nces, if they
)gether ; and
1 intercourse,
experienced
such remota

miration waa
n the welfaie
ime appeared
ne by others

le has always
ion both of
peculiarities,
; which he is
ealings witli
cen sense 0'
rious needs.
occasions he
nin had pre-
injudicious

o
so

ffir

■t

"I V

(681)

682

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

. I'i

. fl

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action of Nur Bey, who had marched to his (Mtesa's) capital with three
liundred Egyptian soldiers with the intention of annexing Uganda to

Egypt. ,

Peace More Effective than War.

This action of Nur Bey's, by the way, was in direct opposition Co
. rordon Pasha's orders. Emin's power over the natives may also be
gathered from the fact that he entered into friendly relationships with so
many of the petty native chiefs whose districts adjoined his province. One
after another began to trade with him, and sooner or later, with very
rare exceptions, they asked him to extend Egyptian authority over their
lands, and without a shot being fired they became tributary chiefs.
They recognized that it was to their advantage to do so, for, once having
placed themselves under his beneficent rule, they kne# well that their
district was safe.

I must touch upon one other point. Emin Pasha refers in many places
to the trouble he suffered from limited authority. Baker and Gordon
were absolutely independent of any central authority at Khartoum ; they
had the power of life and death, and were responsible to the Khedive
alone for their actions. Not so Emin. He was obliged to report almost
every detail of administration for the approval of the Governor-General of
the Soudan, and when one considers that months, sometimes years,
elapsed before he received an answer to his communications, it will be
readily understood how greatly his hands were tied, and how difficult it
was for him both to maintain order and to introduce improvements into
his province.

With regard to the commercial administi-ation of the province, it was
the old story over again — the Egyptian Government requiring the bricks
to be made and refusing to provide the straw. Emin could not obtain
supplies from Khartoum, and even the seeds which he required for culti-
vation experiments had either to be purchased with his own money or to
be begged from his numerous friends. What wonder that the Equatorial
Province did not prove a gold-mine ! The wonder is that, left to his own
resources, he was able in so few short years to transform the finances of
the country, and, instead of holding his province at a yearly deficit, to
jiiake a net profit.
' Emin's Desperate Strug-g^Ie.

The difficulties and dangers which disturbed the Equatorial Province in
consequence of the evacuation of the Soudan are described in Emin's letters.
He was 'himself unaware of the events which were taking place north of
his territory, but it was only too evident that the prosperity of his

Mtli three
Uganda to

osition to
y also be
)s with so
nee. One
with very
over their
^ry chiefs,
ice having
that their

lany places
nd Gordon
Dum ; they
le Khedive
port almost
-General of
mes years,
, it will be
difficult it
ments into

fnce, it was
the bricks
not obtain
;d for culti-
loney or to
Equatorial
to his own
finances of
deficit, to

Province in
jiin's letters.
Ice north of

rity of his

iJ'ill' '' ill

d ill' * III I

liiiiiiiiijlliifi

(683)

684

WONDERS OF THT? TROPICS.

province was threatened, and he had a desperate struggle for its very
existence. At length the Mahdi's hordes began to retire, and Emin was
subsequently able to recover most of the ground he had lost.
; In October, 1886, temporary aid arrived in the shape of a caravan from
Uganda with supplies from Dr. Junker. Emin speaks of the almosii
childish joy with which he and his people welcomed this caravan. In
April, 1887, he heard that help was probably coming from England, and
in a letter written to me then he says : — *' You can imagine better than I
can tell you that the heartfelt sympathy which has been expressed for me
and my people in England have richly repaid me for many of the sorrows
and hardships I have undergone." Mr. Stanley led the expedition with
his usual undaunted courage and perseverance.

It will be noticed how firmly Emin states his intention of remaining at
his post until the future of the country he has ruled so long and of the
people in whom he takes so much interest be settled. He says : — " The
work that Gordon paid for with his blood, I will strive to carry on, if not
with his energy and genius, still according to his intentions and with his
spirit ; " and again, his concluding words are : — " All wevvould ask Eng-
land to do is to bring about a better understanding with Uganda, and to
provide us with a free and safe way to the coast. This is all we want.
Evacuate our territorj' ? Certainly not ! If it is developed in such a
way that the good of the people be secured, it will form a centre of
civilization and liberty to the whole of Central Africa."

A<'\'n

CHAPTER XXX.
EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

Eniin's Graphic Story— Sent to Unyoro by " Chinese " Gordon— Emin's Company on
the March— Drenched with Rain— Ox hide Clothing— Fine Present— Very Diffi-
cult Marching— Handsome Young Chief— A Manlike Animal— Ape Nests Among
the Trees— The African Parrot— Several Species of Baboons— The King Sends
an Escort— Tooting Horns and Rattling Drums —Arrival at Kabrega's— Cows
With Neither Horns nor Humps— Country Well Peopled— Tall Grasses and
Gigantic Reeds— The Kmg's Greetings— Kabrega on a Stool— How the King
Was Dressed— kabrepa's Fair Complexion— Amused with a Revolver — A Merry
Monarch— A Savage Who Could Forgive— Funny Little Hump- backs— Numer-
ous Albinos— Interesting Custom— Embassy to Gen. Gordon— A Worthless
Governor — Exciting Melee.

yTvE have already stated that Emin Pasha is the last of the heroes of
iwl the Soudan a/.d worthy to rank with General Gordon, whose
fame is now a cherished treasure not only by his own country,
but by all the nations of Christendom. Fo,- a number of years
Emin has been the central figure around which interest in the Dark Con-
tinent gathered. He has told in his own graphic way the story of his
exploits in Africa, and we cannot do a greater favor to the reader than to
let him peruse this stirring account as it is given by the pen of Emin
Pasha himself Th§ following is Emin's graphic description of his
travels in the Dark Continent :

It was in May of the year 1877 that His Excellency Gordon Pasha,
prompted by the wish to be on good terms with the Negro princes in the
south, entrusted me with the honorable commission to visit, if possible,
the king of Unyoro, Kabrega, who, since Baker's retreat from Masindi,
had always been our enemy, and to try and bring about a peaceable
solution of existing difficulties. Favored by fortune, I succeeded in my
mission, and the following pages are the result of my stay with Kabrega.
Few travellers have as yet seen Unyoro, \.nich circumstance may lend to
these notes a special value. • It also struck me, while perusing Baker's
books, that they contained very little information with regard to land
and people, habits and customs. I therefore set myself the task of col-
lecting all that I could learn upon these subjects, in which endeavor my
knowledge of the language was an essential help.

We left Mruli on December 13, 1877. The road, as far as Kisuga,

was already well known to us, and led through a slightly hilly country.

(685)

686

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

gently sloping away from the river towards Khor Kafu, into wliich it
drains, and abounding in the thorny acacia. The ascent towards the
west is very gradual indeed, and it is only made apparent by the denuda-
tion of all the higher parts, which has laid bare the red clayey subsoil,
whilst the hollows are filled up with the grey fine-grained loamy deposit
which is so characteristic of this country. Aloes abound. A circular
basin, cut, as it were, in the red ground and filled with clear water, pro-
vided a welcome resting-place for my porters, who, after a short repose
continued the journey, and, two hours later, stopped for their midday
rest under a group of trees, and near little pools of water. A bush with
shining dark green leaves and white blossoms, resembling a passion-
flower, the stamens of which were of a yellowish white color, and the
pistils red and yellow, was quite new to me. The red berries are eaten
by children

Drenched with Rain.

My companion, Kapempe, a Motongali of Kabp.ga's, entertained me
By mimicking in a most amusing way the gestures of the porters who
found their burdens too heavy. These people express astonishment in
a way quite new to me — a rapid raising of the closed fists to the crown of
the head, from which they are drawn energetically to the forehead. The
rumbling of thunder in the distance and dark clouds overhead warned us
to start, but we were hardly on our way, when the rain poured down in
torrents. Every moment a porter would stop to cover himself with a
banana-leaf, or to take off the ox-hide which serves him for a dress, in
order to protect it from the rain, which renders it hard. In this way the
whole column was brought to a standstill — a very pleasant episode in
such rain as this, which poured in at one's collar and out at one's boots !
Then, in great haste, we again started forward, through banana fields,
till, after a march of seven hours, we reached Kisuga, where we were
obliged to rest the next day to dry our baggage.

When at last we were ready to start, one of the soldiq^s who accom-
panied me was taken ill, I expect, from fear of the dangers he appre-
hended on the journey. I had therefore but one soldier left to take
charge of my horse, and my two servants, boys between ten and twelve
years of age — an imposing escort I Being put on my guard by Baker's
account of Kabrega's talent for begging, I left everything that was not
absolutely indispensable, even my gun, in Kisuga; and then we started
in the direction of Londu, along the road we had previously trodden,
through tall grass and numerous banana groves, in which reddish-yellow
flowers threw their tendrils across our path. The soldiers marched in

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

'«87

total silence, a contrast to the no* ' Waganda ; no drum was carried
with us. Our halts became frequent, ' the porters seemed to be very
hungry, as on every possible opportunity they picked up some bananas
or a sweet potato. Towards midday we reached Londu, the defenceless
stockade of which, with many a spot charred black by fire, produced a
very painful impression. Small herds of bullocks and goats and a few
solitary inhabitants were v isible in the vicinity.

Ox-hide Glotbing.
After having settled ourselves for the night as best we could, we sent
to the chief of the district, who lived near, to request port-ers for the
morrow, as Kabrega had promised them. I should have preferred my
own porters from Mruli, as I could then have been mo^c independent in
my movements; but Rionga's people absolutely refused to follow me
into the land qf their deadly enemy, and thus I had to rely upon Kab-
rega's people. Biabo, the Matongali who had charge of this place, a
corpulent young man with slightly prognathous features, paid me a visit
in company with five or six of his men. They were reddish-brown in
color, except one who was deep black — a man from tJie district of
Shifalw, which lies near the rapids of Tada. The color of the people
throughout this country is very various, and graduates from black to
yellow; yet, for the most part, the fundamental color is red. The
people are clothed in soft ox-hides, from which the hair has been
removed, except at the borders, where a strip of hair of two fingers'-
breadth has been left as an ornament ; their costume is completed by
arm-rings and anklets made of brass and necklets composed of
roots. The head is not shaved — shaving is a sign of mourning — indeed
you often see very elegant corkscrew-like curls. A small present of
beads procured me in return several baskets full of sweet potatoes, and
as I had brought a bullock with me from Kisuga and presented it to my
porters, song and revelry lasted far into the night.

During the night rain began to fall gently, and early in the morning
it poured down in torrents; but in spite of that the promised porters
arrived, and I prepared for the journey. Considering, however, that the
baggage would get an unavoidable soaking, and that the troublesome
and useless tent we had dragged with us required, when wet, five men
to carry it, I determined to wait ; and I did well, for at two o'clock it
still rained as persistently as ever, so our further march was put off until
the following morning. My porters, who last night devoured an ox,
were now lying hungrily around a smoking fire ; and I too had only
what was absolutely necessary.

688

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Next morr ng a very cloudy sky did not promise well for our further
journey; nevertheless we broke up camp in good time in order to reach
our distant quarters at the appointed hour. A very hilly country spread
itself out before us ; both sides of the way were flanked with solitary
hills, and our progress was rendered irksome by antediluvian grass and
bushes often ten feet high. Magnificent growths of papyrus fringed the
watercourses. This day, too, we did not escape the rain ; and as only
grass and forest lay before us, and neither huts nor plantations were to
be seen, we were compelled to press vigorously forwards, until, about
two o'clock in the afternoon, we reached a small group of miserable huts,
where we were obliged to remain for the night.

A Valuable Present.
The inhabitants had fled at our approach, but we found fires still burn-
ing in the huts. Matongali Vukimba, the chief of the village, did not
keep us long waiting, for we had hardly placed our things under cover
when he, accompanied by two subchiefs and several of his people, put in
an appearance, to pay his respects to me and to present me with a goat
and two sheep — quite a luxury. The people impressed me favorably ;
they were modest and unpretentious, and satisfied with anythyig that
was given them. If they were allowed to choose between glass beads
and cloth, they preferred the latter. This place was called Kimanya

The Wanyoro appear to be very much afraid of dew and rain; at any
rate they will never get up early in the morning ; and if, when on the
march, they come upon grass wet with dew, they lay down their loads
and quickly tie before them either a large banana-leaf or a bunch of dry
leaves in order to protect themselves. A woman who was travelling
with us was so completely covered with dead leaves that she looked
exactly like a wandering withered bush.

On the 1 8th we started very early, but after ten minutes' march we
came to a halt near an extensive plantation of bananas and sweet pota-
toes, in order to change our porters. Matongali Vukimba had the
best intentions ; but much palaver and some blows were required before
he was able to convince the people that they must go on; and when,
after a quarter of an hour's halt, we were again on the move, he followed
us, with one of his subchiefs, gesticulating and shouting in such an ener-
getic manner that I expected every minute a fight would ensue. At last,
however, the dispute was settled, and soon after Vukimba turned back to
his village.

We then proceeded upon our way, stoppmg, however, at every group
of huts to try and press porters into our service. The road led at first

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRIlA.

C89

through fine fields and banana groves, then up and down through high
wild grass. On either hand, at a distance of two or three miles, there
rose mountain groups forming distinct ranges. Magnificent ** gallery "
woods skirted two muddy rain-gutters, which we crossed.

The silvery-haired guereza was seen among the tops of gigantic treei
which were enveloped in climbing plants. Other monkeys swung among
the creepers, and phoenix bushes formed the underwood. In the hollows
where the rain collects there was very little water ; it reaches nearly to
our waists ; but the mud and imbedded roots made our progress diffi-
cult. The horse I had with me was perfectly useless ; I managed far

better on foot.

Very DiflBcnlt Marchinsr.

A short march brought us to another stream with magnificent " gal-
lery" woods. The red tulip-like flowers of the spathodia shone against
the thick dark foliage like flames of fire. We now left the high grass
and marched upon a road which had been formed by pulling up the
grass and cutting down the trees. Unfortunately, however, marching
was rendered very difficult by the existence of deep holes where roots
had been pulled up. For some distance a stream flowed by us at our
right hand, its course being marked by dense foliage of overhanging
shrubs. We then once more arrived at clearings, where bananas, sweet
potatoes, and lubias intermingled, and here and there the green stalks of
maize were seen, or the broad leaves of Virginian tobacco. Compounds
containing three or four huts' lay scattered throughout the cultivated
land. They were hemispherical, and their grass roofs stretched down to
the ground all round, except where a porch was formed over the door.
The frames were made of light reed wickerwork and supported by nu-
merous poles. Inside, the huts were not exactly inviting ; they were
divided into two compartments, the floors of which were covered with
hay, and infested by innumerable mice, cock-roaches, crickets, and fleas.
Household utensils were not numerous, for the inhabitants had fled
before us, taking all their treasures with them.

Handsome Young Chief.

We halted at Kitongali, in one of these clearings, where I was fortu-
nate enough to obtain three huts for myself, my people, and my belong-
ings. Here I had the pleasure of a visit from the village chief, a good-
looking young man, whose father is Kabrega's confidant. He made
quite an imposing figure, being clad in thin white skins, over which hung
a reddish-brown loose robe; his servant bore after him a double-
barrelled sporting-gun. The usual presents having been exchanged, he

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EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

691

sent a messenger to Kabrega to apprise him of my approach, for the
next day we expected to reach our destination. If, however, I under-
stand African ceremoniaL rightly, many a day will still pass before I
reach Kabrega*s, although we are quite near to his residence.

It is always uncomfortable to travel during the rainy season, because
you are never master of the situation, which, indeed, lesfving the rain out
of question, is rarely the case. From midnight the thunder rolled on all
sides, thick fog enveloped the country, and it rained as if it were abso-
lutely necessary for the clouds to rid themselves of their whole contents
that day. Of course, it was no good thinking of further progress in such
weather ; and to make matters worse, my hut was, not water-tight. I
had seen none of my people that day, for, on account of the rain, and
possibly also of hunger — for meat does not satisfy them, and corn could
noL be obtained — they were having a long sleep.

Notwithstanding my orders that if the sun came out I intended to
march forward, no preparations were made for a start. My people
informed me flatly that the grass was too wet and the sun too hot, and
that therefore I must wait until the next morning. A beautifully colored
woodpecker hammered upon a tree-trunk, which process he accompanied
by an angry twittering, as if he were indignant at his tiresome work. In
the evening we heard the almost deafening chirping of a huge brown
grasshopper. The creature is three inches long ; it had been attracted
by the light, and hopped about the hut.

All the trees were literally covered with the nests of astrilda, in which
I found both eggs and young. A lower nest contained the mother (fd
night) and her eggs. Above this was a small nest for the father.

A Manlike Animal.
The chimpanzee is not uncommon in the southern districts of Unyoro.
It inhabits the woods as far north as Kiroto and Masindi, whereas in
Uganda it remains much farther to the south, and, so far as I know, it is
not seen farther north than Uddu. It is called it Unyoro kingabaniu
(manlike). This, in connection with Schweinfurth's reports from the
Nyam-Nyam districts, shows that its northern boundary is dependent
upon the nature of the vegetation. People here say that it has nests in
the trees, and ?s it chooses the highest trees to build in, it is ver>' diffi-
cult to catch. It appears that this ape is found much more frequently in
the Monbuttu and Nyam-Nyam districts than here, probably because
the thicker woods in those countries afford it greater safety. In 1877-7.8
four living specimens were sent from there to Khartoum, where they
died, and were not made use of in a scientific or any other way.

692

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The distribution of the parrot coincides with that of the anthropoid
ape. The bird is to be seen all over Unyoro, flying about in twos and
threes. It is a high, heavy flier, scicams continuously during its flight,
and is one of the earliest birds. Even before sunrise it is heard screech-
ing; towards midday, however, it vanishes, in order to take its midday
rest, and is seerr again from four o'clock until the evening. The numer-
ous sycamores provide it with necessary food. Possibly, also, it feeds on
bananas; at least some of the specimens I obtained ate this food
readily, and preferred it to sugar-cane. The bird is very common in
Uganda, and is sometimes kept in the huts, where, without any instruc-
tion, it soon learns to speak. In Usoga, where the bird is exceedingly
numerous, it is caught in small nets, and the red feathers from its tail are
plucked out and used as ornaments. Care is, however, taken that the
person performing this opeiation is unknown to the bird. The feathers
are reproduced very slowly. Baboons of several species are common in
the mountains. I have been told two or three times that black parrots
•are to be found ; but as their existence here has not been proved, it is
probably a dark specimen of some other bird that has been seen. .Still,
it is perfectly true that many new discoveries remain to be made here.

The Kingr Sends an Escort.
At midnight the horns were blown — the drum serves only as a war
signal — to assemble the porters; yet aL six in the morning not ten
persons had turned up , and when, after half an hour's bargaining and
palaver, a few more Negroes appeared, no one seemed to know the road,
although Kabrega's capital could not have been more than five or six
hours distant, I was therefore compelled to send two men to Kabrega
to beg him to send me a guide, knowing all the while that this ignorance
was a mere pretence. Fortunately, I had been able to procure a sheep
and a few fowls, as well as some sesaiii^e for my people in exchange for a
few beads, so they at least did not starve. There were several heavy
storms of rain again that day,

At last, on the 21st, we started. The horns had been blowing fos
hours, and my people had urged me to march. As, however, I had
heard the beating of a big drum for about half an hour, I concluded that
Kabrega was sending one of his chiefs to meet me ; and so it turned out,
for soon after Makango (big chief) Bkainba appeared, accompanied by a
drummer, a gun-boy, and some five or six other people, to greet me and
to escort me at once to Kabrega. Everything was now arranged like
magic, and off we marched, our luggage in advance. We climbed up
through well-cult'vated land, in which were many huts ; then, turning

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF APR :A.

693

round by a large banana grove, we descended to a big papyrus swamp, the

crossing of which, although it was only about two hundred yards broad,

occupied a whole half-hour, because the water between each single

thicket reached up to our necks and the roots caught our feet like

nooses. Only one who has experienced such a passage can form an

idea of its unpleasantness, especially when stinging and prickly vossia-

grass abounds.

Neither Horns nor Humps.

When we at length found ourselves safely on the opposite bank, the
porters, who were most wonderfully willing, went on before, and we
passed through dense masses of grass with many mimosas, which occa-
sionally gave place to meadow-land, until we entered a sort of defile
between two ranges of mountains, and marched on, up and down hill,
in a banana grove, where fig-trees and phoenix palms were growing, we
saw the fresh trails of two large hyenas. At length we left the moun-
tainous defile, entering again into high grass and reeds, and pausing at
last to rest by a small brook with clear bubbling water, which flowed
over mica slabs and tasted strongly of iron Gray cows, possessing
neither horns nor humps, stood in the water (they destroy the horns of
the cattle here as soon as they commence to grow, by cauterizing them
with a red-hot iron, in order to enable them to pass with greater ease
through the tall grass and the jungle). All the houses lay at a distance
from the road. Probably in order to impress the stranger with the
immense size of the land, and therefore with the greatness of its ruler, he
is led round about for days through the high grasa, when the direct
route vvould hardly occupy three marching hours. The country is said
to be well peopled.

Soon after crossing the small stream we found ourselves again between
rows of mountains, several summits of which may attain an altitude of
from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the general elevation of the country, which
is probably as much as 4.000 feet. Then followed cultivated fields, with
many miniature votive huts, erected with the idea of obtaining a good
harvest. Giant reeds came next, and at last the mountains opened out,
and before us lay Kabrega's headquarters, Unyoro's capital. The huL«
which had been prepared for me lay to the lefr of the road, upon a hill,
above which high mountains towered. The spot is about ten minutes
distant from the great compound of huts which comprises the king's resi-
dence, and which, with another compound lying near it, forms the
village. '

Our goods were hardly under sheltc^ when the rain began to pour

694

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

and the thunder to roll. Late in the evening Katagrua, Kabrega's prime
iTiinistcr, once a companion of Baker, came to visit me and to bring me
his master's greetings. Kabrcga had intended to receive me immedi-
ately, but was prevented doing'so on account of the rain. For the same
reason it had been impossible for hi'n to gather together for me any kind
of present, and therefore he begged me to excuse it. I simply remarked
that I was very much obliged to his sovereign, but that I was not come
in o'der to receive presents. Makango Bkamba, whom I had sent with

J-

ARRIVAI^ AT KAHUKGA's.

my greetings to the king, brought me the promise of an audienco
to-morrow.

^, The sun had hardly risen when Katagrua arrived, bringing with liim
the present he had yesterday led me to expect. Two fat white oxen with
long horns, a package of fine white salt (from the Albert Lake), three
packages of corn and two packages of meal of the same kind of corn,
were laid before me, together with several jars of very good banana wine,
accompanied by Kabrega's besf greetings. After Katagrua had gone, I

\:" J

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

695

rega s prime
to bring me
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nc any kind
ly remarked
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Ibanana wine,

had gone, I

had hardly time, before my audience with Kabrega, to prepare the pres-
ents which I had brought for him, and which far surpassed anything that
he could previously have received. Exactly at midday my guide, Kap-
cmpe, appeared, this time dressed in presents from me, and our proces-
sion started. It was headed by three Matongalis ; then followed my
guide, Kapempe, with all his people; then two porters carrying the pres-
ents for Kabrega ; and I, in uniform, on horseback, attended by my sol-
dier, brought up the rear.

The road was full of papyrus. We passed over a bridge which had
been built in my honor, then again uphill, past two small compounds, in
the shadow of which stood crowds of staring people. We crossed an
open square, leaving to our right the king's cattle yard, in which were
numerous houses for the Wahuma herdsmen. A circular building rose
before us, with lofty entrances in front and at the back, the space before
which was roofed in. The floor of the building was clean and strewn
with green papyrus-leaves ; in the middle of it sat Kabrega upon a high
stool, surrounded by his office-bearers, crouching upon the floor ; behiad
the king stood about ten men and boys, armed with guns. At his feet
crouched Manyara, the interpreter, a man with a bird-like face. My stool
was placed close to that occupied by the king, and we surveyed each
other intently for several moments.

How the King Was lircssed.

This, then, was Kabrega, the cowardly, treacherous, beggarly drunk-
ard described by Baker. The graceful folds of a piece of fine salmon-
colored bark cloth covered his body up to the breast, above which it was
perfectly bare, except the left shoulder, over which was thrown, like a
plaid, a piece of darker-colored bark cloth. Two burnt scars were visible
on the temples of his well-formed, smoothly shorn head, these constitut-
ing the tribal mark of the V/anyoro ; his four lower incisor teeth were
wanting, as is the case in all Wanyoro, and the upper incisors projected
.slightly, and were brilliantly white. (The lower incisors, sometimes also
the canines, are always removed from girls and boys as soon as they
arrive at puberty. They are forced out with a broad piece of iron used
as a lever.) A necklace of hairs from a giraffe's tail, upon the middle of
which was strung a single blue glass bead, encircled his neck. A root
amulet and an iron bracelet were the only ornaments on his strong mus-
cular arm ; his hands were small and well kept. He is strikingly fair,
probably in consequence of his pure Wahuma blood. He made, upon
the whole, a very favorable impression upon me, but there was a decided
voluptuous expression on his face. His attendants, about fifty in nam'

* :'6:

696

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ber, were cIptLed in skins and bark cloths, and amongst them, was his
brother, an ugly black fellow.

After presenting him with my credentials, to which I added a few
words, a very lively conversation sprang up between us. Kabrega
speaks the Soudan Arabic fluently. He requested me, however,
although I speak Kinyoro, to talk with him in Arabic, and to permit my
words to be trans.^ated by his interpreter, " so tha, his people could
understand them." i next gave him the presents I hid brought with
me, and much enjoyed his pleasure in receiving them. He paid especial
attention to a few pieces of scented soap. My soldier had a small
revolver in his girdle; Kabrega requested permission to view it, and
corpprehended at once its mechanism. He took it to pieces, put it
together again, and then gave it back to me. He then asked me to
inform him how I had enjoyed myself last year in Uganda, and what I
had seen there, and he was highly amused with my description of the
court ceremonials which obtain in that country. Threatening rain
brought our conference to an end before either wished its conclusion.
He promised, however, that he would soon call me again into his pres-
ence, and then took leave of me in a thoroughly dignified manner.
* A Merry Mouarch.

I have often visited Kabrega subsequently, and cannot say that I ever
heard him speak an improper word or make an indecent gesture, or that
he was ever rude, excepting, perhaps, that he sometimes spat on the
ground before him, one of his chiefs immediately wiping up the saliva
with his hand from the grass mat. Might not a like official find employ-
ment at European courts? Kabrega is cheerful, laughs readily and
much, talks a great deal, and does not appear to care to be bound by
ceremony — the exact opposite to Mtesa, the conceited ruler of Uganda.

The next day I was again called to the king, whom I found sur-
rounded by ten or twelve persons. Anyone who has seen the strict
etiquette in Uganda could not help being greatly surprised at the non-
chalance and informality of the Wanyoro, who lie about the floor chew-
ing coffee in the king's presence in a perfectly unceremonious manner.
We had a long interview, concerning which I would specially note the
willingness with which His Majesty acceded to my requests, and also his
account of what took place here during Baker's residence. Kabrega
very readily consented to my proposition that some of his people should
go with me, or rather be sent, to Khartoum, to pay a visit to the
Governor-General, Gordon Pasha. My watch caused much astonish-
ment, and I was requested to send him a loud-ticking watch after my

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

697

return home. I certainly cannot charge Kabrega with begging ; on the
contrary, he sent me daily, in the most hospitable manner, stores of corn
and meal, which, although they were only intended to supply the wants
of one day, could easily have been made to last us for a fortnight.

, A Savage who Could Fcrslve.

During my repeated visits Kabrega gave me the impression of being a
thoroughly hospitable and intelligent man. Quite apart from the rich
pifU of food, bark cloths, etc., a return for which it was impossible for
me to make — he proved this in a very noteworthy manner in connection
with an incident which might have brought me into a very awkw^ard
position. Notwithstanding my strict orders that no hostile action should
be taken against Kabrega by the Egyptians during my visit to Unyoro,
the soldiers in our nearest station, led by stupid, jealous officers, made a
raid upon the country, and killed several of Kabrega's people. Katagrua
was sent by the king to give me this information, and to assure me at
the same time that, although this occurrence was highly displeasing to him,
it should in no way affect our personal relations !

I paid a long and very interesting visit to Kabrega on the 5th of Octo-
ber. The conversation turned upon a hundred various topics. As the
sky was again overclouded, I withdrew after four hours' chat, and had
hardly time to reach home before the storm broke over us. Although I
suffered considerably during my fourteen days residence here on account
of the torrents of rain which fell three or four times daily — which state
of things, according to the report of the inhabitants, will last till Novem-
ber — I have never in all my life experienced such an uproar as this
storm. A deep darkness enveloped the land, now and then streaked by
blue lightning, and, whipped by the raging soutb-east wind, hail .id
rain came beating down, the hailstones being as large as horse-beans.
After continuing for half an hour, the hail gave place to a true deluge of
rain, and until late in the night it still continued raining steadily. All
our huts were ^uU of water, and the next two days were occupied in
repairing them.

I received visits daily from Kabrega's chiefs, amongst whom Katagrua
and Melindua were two really pleasant, sensible men. As regards the
former, I have pleasure in being able to confirm what Baker said of him,
namely, that he was the only gentleman at Kabrega's court ; not once
did he request a single thing from me, and he received with signs of the
greatest gratitude the little presents I was able to make him. I am
indebted to both these men for much valuable information concerning
the life and customs of Unyoro. . . ,

U-t

698

WONDERS OF THF TROPICS.

On the 30th of September I was just preparing to utilize a pause in the
rain by taking a walk, wlitn I was called to Kabrcga, whom I found sit-
ting on his divan enveloped in a bark-cloth of beautiful pattern. People
from Karagwahad arrived, bringing with them arms and ammunition, to
be exchanged for ivory aid slaves, and Kabrcga wished to show his
white guest to them. I had taken with me Spcke's book, in order to
astonish the king ; and as I showed him his father, Kamrasi, in it, as
'well as other pictures, especially the one of the famous dwarf Kimenya,
who died several years ago, the pleasure of those present knew no
bounds. 7\vo small men, but ccrtiinly not dwarfs, were immediately led
before me, one of who;u, a regular hump-back, formed a subject for the
company's hilarity. Ilunip-backed people, it appears, are not uncom-
puTi hero. The conversation turned to the subject of white ind colored
people; and in order to prove lli"t hyht colored persons also exist here,
a lanky 'oung man was introduced to me, who was distinguished by the
yellow ground-color of his skin. He was offered to me as a present, but
was declined with thanks.

The production of white children (albinos) by black parents is cer-
tainly not uncommon, but there is no question of their having P^nything
to do with the marriage bet/, jcn blood relations, notwithstanding Mtesa
believed this to be the cause. He probably hea'd such an opinion from
Europeans. In this country brothers marry th :ir sisters without produc-
ing albinos. Albinos are supposed to bring \<ith them misfortune, ant!
aie the efore not considered to be of equal birth ^vith their brothers and
sisters. I had an opportunity subsequently in Uganda of examining
carefully an albino girl. The presence of white people in Uganda is
denied there, but still Albinos are found there ; and I could only hear of
one white man who had tried to go to Ruhanda. but had not succeeded
— probably Stanley.

As on the 8th of October Kabrega sent me supplies, I called to thank
him, and was taken to his private house, where I, for the first time, found
him clothed in Arab dress, and I chatted with him in Arabic. The fat
women whom I saw on this occasion came up in all poii'ts to the de-^ rip-
tio'"' of Spekeand Grant, those reliable and conscientious travellers, who
saw similar fat women in Karagwa. Such a custom as this of fattening,
up the king's wives .says more th3i all else for the original unity of these
countries, or at least goes to prove the same origin of the rulers ; the ruler
of Uganda is, notwithstandmg his " pedigree," only an usurper and parvenu.

As soon as the new moon becomes visible she is greeted by the firing
of guns. Horns and flutes form a lively, if not very harmonious, concert,

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

099

the musicians marching up and down, either upon their heels or only
upon their toes, bending at the same time their bodies bacl<vvards and
forwards. Kabrega himself is at this time occupied in preparing his
magic powders, his amulets and talismans, and no doubt also dabbles a
little in the art of divination, as is the custom with all Wahuma chiefs
during the first few days of the new moon.

Perpendicular Mountain.

Early on the 9th of October, hi celebration of the feast of Ramadan-

Bairam, Kabrcga sent me a present of an ox. As, for a wonder, the

weather permitted me to get about, I climbed the towering mountain

which was near our camp. A footpath, well worn by the hc-ds, leads up

to the highest peak, the base of which is hidden by grass and reeds an !

many mimosas. The soil heic consists oi reddish gray vegetable mould,

under which there is a layer of brown humus two feet thick, having

underneath it sharp-edged quartz fragments. The ascent from here is

very difficult, in many places hardly possible except by crawling. So

steep indeed, is the side of the mountain that only here and there a tree

with willow-like leaves is able to take root. Shcit turf covers the thin

layer of earth, which is bedded upon granite, except in some places

where one finds quartz in small pieces. The higher one climbs, the

scantier becomes the vegetation, until upon the summit itself, which I

reached after three-quarters of an hour's climb, there are only four or

five stunted trees amidst blocks of rock and structures of ants.

Two Zanzibar merchants arrived here from Karagwa without touching
Uganda ; both were freed slaves who wished to buy ivory by order of
their masters ; it is abundant and pretty cheap. They offered in ex-
change cloth, guns, powder, percussion-caps, copper and brass. Near
midday, on the loth of October, a company of Waganda also arrived in
order to trade. Their chief, Mbazi, an old acquaintance of mine, sought
me out at once, and informed me that Mtesa had sent people to Mruli to
fetch me from that place. Letters which I receiveu on the following day
from Mruli confirmed the arrival of one hundred and fifty Waganda, but
as I was not there they returned to Uganda. At the same time I
received English and Arabic letters from Mtesa inviting n e to come, but
' to bring no soldiers njth me." I was told, too, that some of my things,
which I intended to present to Kabrega, had been forwarded, but they
had been taken from the porters by Kabrega's people. I, of cou'rse,
claimed them back at once, upon which Kabrega sent me word that I
need not trouble about them, for he himself was the aggrieved party, and
would immediately take steps for their recovery.

700

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Two tiays after, the mcsscntjers whot'i Kabrega had sent to find them,
returned and laid the unopened bundle at my feet. According to their
account, all the inhabitants of the village had fled and deposited the
goods in the house of a neighboring chief, who had delivered them up to
them. I sent at once to Kambrega to thank him, and, moreover, to
request an audience, when I intended to ask for permission to depart.
At this audience, which took place on the 15th, my official business was
brought to an end to our mlitual satisfaction, and I cannot refrain from
again recording the friendly treatment extended to me by Kabrega,
which was never disturbed by a single unfriendly word, even up to the
last moment, so that I shall always remember with pleasure the days 1
spent here. His embassy to Gordon Pasha, composed of Kasabc,
Baker's former guide, who had already been in Gondokoro, and the
interpreter, Msige, were either to accompany or to follow me. As a
parting gift, I presented Kabrega with a richly gilded sabre, which very
much delighted him. I could therefore anticipate being able to start
upon my return journey in a week, if no unforeseen delays occurred.
Kabrega gave me his " dead " watch for me to get repaired in Khai-
toum. He also requested me to send him an Arab clerk.

t King's Taxes.

To judge by the sounds of the Uganda drums, the Waganda were
really received at court on the 19th of October, after waiting nine days.
This seemed to be the day for paying tribute ; at least the quantity of
packets and bales lying before Kabrega's divan, as well as piles of new
bark cloth, and the number of people who had collected together,
proved that a great reception was taking place. The king sent sonic
loads of meal for our journey. Several days later I received, in addi-
tion to this, six oxen ; they were the hornless kind, having small humps.

On the 22d of October I was again called to Kabrega. He was car-
rying on a lively conversation with a number of people, amongst whom
I noticed the Waganda ; but when I arrived the whole party was dis-
missed, and I was, in the first place, requested to show him my revolver.
After he had examined it, he asked me to send him some like it. A
very animated conversation followed upon the most varied subjects, and
was prolonged until near evening, when pouring rain commenced, and
compelled me to return home. My real business here was at an end.
It was almost impossible to collect anything, for all specimens, bird-
skins, etc., were spoilt on account of the indescribable humidity. I was
therefore ready to march. I had my farewell audience the next dsiy,
and can state, with satisfaction, that the wish on both sides to meet again

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

701

was very cordial. The people who were to go to Khartoum were still
away scttlnj,' their houses in order; the king informed mc that they
would overtake me at Mruli.

The porters who had been promised me for the next day, of course,
did not appear, although Msige, wiio was to accompany mc, was early
on the spot. t

A WorthleHH Governor.

To my great surprise I received letters from Magungo containing
very curious reports concerning the doings of Nur Bey, the acting Gov-
ernor of the eqi'atorial provinces — a worthless, mendacious sneak. In
consequence of this I almost decided to go to Magungo, but soon gave
up the idea, for, on account of the constant rain, the distance would
have been too great for my people. Having received two big elephant's
tusks as a parting gift from Kabrega, we began the return march on the
25th of October, by the same road which had brought us here. A vol-
ley of guns was fired from Kabrega's headquarters in honor of the part-
ing guest. Owing to the persistent rain, all the grasses had shot up
higher, the reed thickets had grown more impenetrable, and thorns' more
troublesome. At the same time the water was knee-deep in the holes
and puddles. After we had passed Khor Kabrogeta, the water of which
is so strongly impregnated with iron that it is said to distend the intes-
tines, we marched a little farther, and then suddenly turned to the right
into a much-neglected banana grove, where it was suggested that we
should pass the night. The people scattered immediately; but when I
looked round for shelter I only found one broken-down, abominably
filthy hut ; so I insisted on a further march, and although an hour passed
before I got the people together, we left this inhospitable Kikinda, con-
tinued our difficult march through water and bush for more than an hour
and a half, and finally occupied at sunset some huts in the villaj-c of
Blindi. In one of the huts here a wooden triangle was hanging, to which
were suspended a large number of small gourds filled with pebbles ; this
was a rattle to accompany the dance.

No rain fell during the night, but in the early morning all the sky was
grizzly gray, in spite of which we set out, keeping, with few deviations,
to the road, along which we marched on our journey to Kabrega's. The
winding Khor Kyal, although now roaring and full of water, was twice
forded without difficulty ; but the great papyrus swamp which followed
gave us a good deal of trouble on account of its entangled roots. We
had hardly crossed the swamp, when the rain, till now bearable, beat
down with such violence that we rushed forward at great speed for about

i i

■\]

702

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

half an hour, when we reached Kitongali, somewhat below the place
where we had previously passed the night.

Exeltliigr Molce.

We sheltered in some huts, dried ourselves by a blazing fire, and could
not think of continuing our journey until midday. Ar^ unpleasant inci-
dent happened to me here, for I discovered that, unluckily, I had lost
my note-book during the rain, and in spite of an energetic search I was
not able to find it; but after the rain was over, a woman returned it to
me uninjured. Another occurrence took place shortly before starting.
Msige wanted to take a jar full of lubias from a woman, but she, taking
the joke ill, struck him over the head with the jar, and wounded him
badly. A fearful disturbance arose, and at first they wanted to kill the
woman ; but finally, after my energetic protestations, were satisfied with
carrying off a young ox, as well as bark cloths and skins, from her hut.
The district here belongs to my acquaintance Melimbua, who was not
likely to approve of this summary kind of justice. Msige's head was
bandaged as well as possible, and then we resumed our march. After
wading through much mud and water we got back to the old road, and
reached Kimanya late in the afternoon. The huts we had previously
occupied had been burnt down by the inhabitants, because I, a white
man, had slept in them. Yet I received a friendly welcome from
Vakumba, and was even able to procure a goat.

Kabrega had sent Matongali Matebere to look after my porters and
my comfort, but he took little trouble about these matters. It was
already nine o'clock on the 27th of October, and not a single porter was
to be seen. I therefore sent to him, but received neither answer nor
porters. So I gave the order to start, and left him behind with all my
traps, for which I held him responsible to his master ; he promised to
follow me soon. Passing by a magnificent sycamore, the hanging roots
of which had grown into nine stems, we went on up and down hill,
through tall grass, till we rested a while beside a pool that had been
made for watering Kab ^ga's cattle.

This continual struggle with thorns and grasses had thoroughly tired
us out, so we were very thankful soon after to reach a few niiseiable
huts, where we could take shelter from the torrents of rain which began
to pour down upon us. Only the most useless of my loads had yet
arrived, while my bedding and cooking apparatus remained behind, so I
was obliged to go to bed supperless, while the leaky hut, with its mos-
quitoes, and water pouring in on all sides, proved no paradise, and I pre-
ferred sleeping on a bullock's hide in the open air. But in the morning

EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA.

703

it grew desperately cold, and when the sun rose we were all ready to
start at once, although our things were only arriving in driblets. This
place was called Btobc, and was inhabited by only one family, consisting
of one man, eight women, two children, and a dog.

A short journey through tall grass brought us to Londu, which we
left a little to one side, to halt half an hour's march beyond it, in Kiji-
veka, where some good huts were at once placed at our disposal, and
where we were given some sweet potatoes, which we relished much
after our thirty-six hours' fast. The Madundi, who inhabit this district,
are of a very dark color, and speak a language quite different from that
of that of the Wanyoro. It strikes one particularly by its humming
tones and jerky syllables. These people are said to have originally come
from beyond the Albert Lake, and they still practice circumcision.
Their houses differ from the hemispherical " bee-hives " of Unyoro, in
the construction of their reed walls and high porches. Some of the
children are swag-bellied, a result of irregular nourishment — to-day a
great deal, to-morrow nothing. The women wear the pretty striped
aprons of bark cloth noticed by Baker. All smoke pipes wi*.h enor-
mously long reed stems.

;i J

CHAPTER XXXI.

W'
Ui

EMIN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

Emin's Scholarly Attainments— A Shrewd Observer — ^The Wanyoro— Cleanly Hab-
its— Sweet Perfumes — Triangular Finger-Nails— Wanyoro Cookery— Eating
Earth — How Great Chiefs Eat — How Women Eat — What Africans Drink— Proud
Wives of Chiefs— Use of Tobacco— Treating Friends With Coffee-berries— Wild
Sports in Unyoro — ^A Famous Witch— Scene at a Fire — How Love Matches Are
Made— Paying for a Wife by Installments- How Crime is Punished — The Coun-
try's Government— The King's Cattle — King Kabrega Claims All the Young
Ladies — Legend of the Creation — Belief in Charms— Curious Superstitions— Le-
gend of the Elephant— Legend of the Chimpanzee.

KO explorer in Africa has been a more curious observer of African
traits and character than Etnin Pasha, Not only is he one of
the first scientists of the world, and therefore has looked at Africa
as a scholar would, taking account of the geogra^ hy,its geology,
its botpny, and all its natural features, but he has also gained a very keen
insight into the habits and customs of the savage tribes. Particularly
has he described the Wanyoro nation, and the following description
from his pen \vill possess a fascinating interest for every reader :

The Wanyoro, though they do not despise the flesh of a cow which
has died a natural death, are very clean and particular in their eating and
in their persons. They will never eat on the bare ground ; even on a
journey they carry with them a little mat for a tablecloth ; but, strange
to say, they do not-wash their cooking-pots after using them. Washing
is much in vogue, but notwithstanding the cleanly habits of the people,
there unfortunately exists a quantity of vermin, which especially infest
the bark cloth. The custom therefore prevails of fumigating the cloth
every two or three days with smoke from pieces of dried papyrus-stalks
stripped of their bark ; the thick and peculiarly pungent smoke is said
to drive away parasites, and at the same time imparts to the material a
perfume perceptible at some distance. As for scents, however, for rub-
bing on the body, a kind of sweet-smelling very compact gray clay is
used, and a species of touchwood which smells like musk. The clay is
brought from t 'le south, and is sold at a high price. The body is always
clean shaved, the head only as a .^Ign of mourning.

The Wanyoro cut their finger-nails in the form of a triangle, the ver-
tex of ^^e triangle being in the middle of the nail. All cuttings of the
(704)

EMIN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

703

ily Hab-
—Eating
c— Proud
es— Wild
tches Are
he Coun-
le Young
lions— Le-

' African
e one of
at Africa

geology,
rery keen
irticularly

scription

)W which
iting and
ven on a
strange
Washing
|e people,
Ily infest
he cloth
US-stalks
e is said
material a
for rub-
^y clay is
\e clay is
lis always

the ver-
rs of the

hair and nails are carefully stored under the bed, and afterwards strewn
about amongst the tall grass.

Brother, sister, brother-in-law, and son-in-law are the recognized
grades of relationship. I have never noticed any intimate connection
between more distant relations.

The food of the Wanyoro consists principally of vegetables, bananas,
sweet potatoes, gourds, purslane, etc. All these are made into a por-
ridge with ground sesame seeds, except bananas, which are plucked
before they are ripe and roasted. Ripe bananas are seldom eaten ; they
are used to make an intoxicating drink. When meat is to be had, it is
eaten, even if very old ; the bones are broken in pieces and boiled with
the meat, and then the marrow is eaten, but it is much disliked when
raw. Marrow, with ants and sesame, is made into a dish " of which a
man leaves nothing for his children.'' Milk is drunk fresh and unboiled.
Antelopes are a favorite food, while elephant's flesh is never eaten, and
hippopotamus meat is shunned, as it is thought to produce skin diseases.
Many of the Wanyoro (in the lake districts) are industrious fishers, and
eat fish with great gusto ; but others entirely avoid and despise it, as
well as fowls and eggs. •

"Wanyoro Cookery.

All the Wanyoro eat salt. Fire i» produced by holding a stick verti-
cally in a shallow hollow made in another stick lying horizontally, and
twirling it quickly round ; the spark is caught in hay or old bark cloth.
This process, however, demands a good deal of skill. The honey of
wild bees is much liked ; it is eaten alone or with porridge.

The habit of eating earth is known in Unyoro, and is practiced as a
remedy for a disease to which both sexes are liable. The kind of earth
most liked is that with which the termites are in the habit of arching
over their passages on the trunks of trees, but ordinary earth is not des-
pised. This practice, if long continued, is said to cause discoloration of
the skin and hair, as well as general emaciation, and finally death. Night-
mare is ascribed to overheating the body by food or clothing.

Throughout Unyoro and Uganda the women are the cooks , but the
chiefs employ men cooks, with whom they have made blood -brother-
hood, and have separate kitchens for the men and women. The great
chiefs always eat alone, and no one may touch or look at the dishes pre-
pared for them. Inferior chiefs often invite their favorites to their table,
and whenever a crumb happens to fall to the ground from the chiefs
hand, these men snatch it up at once and swallow it, in homage to their
lord I Women cat in a separate place, and after the men have finished ;

706

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

it is considered a particular sign of favor v»'ben a wompnis invited by her
husband to eat with him, but the Wawitu women who spring from ruling
families are privileged in this respect, for they always eat with their hus-
bands. The boys eat wi*^h the women. Meat is preferred cooked with
vegetables, especially unripe bananas. 1 he pots ui>ed for cooking are
round, and exactly similar to the water-vessels, but smaller. The food,
when ready, is poured into boat-shaped dishes standing on feet, which
are placed on a mat ; the company gather round them, and eat with
their hands ; spoons, however, cut out of gourd-shells, are in use. There
are altogether three meals in the day. After eating, in which the Wan-
yoro are moderate, a strip of wet banana bark is used to wipe the hands.
The fireplace used for cooking is often situated in a small compartment
walled off by reeds (in Uganda they have separate huts for cooking). It
consists of five stones so placed that the longest and broadest is in the
middle, and the others stand two in a line to the right and left of it, so
that several vessels can be put on the fire at once.

What Africans Drink.

For storing corn clean holes in the ground are used. Fish is split
open, cleaned, and dried over a smoky fire ; this is the method of curing
employed on both lakes.

The drinks used in Unyoro are sandi and mwenge. Sandi is the juice
of ripe bananas, freshly pressed out, and little, if at all, fermented. It is
a pleasant drink, resembling wine, and slightly sparkling, and is more
especially affected by the ladies ; when it comes into the market at all it
is rather dear. Mwenge is prepared by mashing bananas ripened artifi-
cially over a fire or underground, adding water and roasted durrah, and
allowing the liquor to stand until it has become highly fermented. This
beverage is sour and very intoxicating. Corn is not 'malted here. The
use o{ mwenge \s so universal in Unyoro, and particularly in Uganda,
that I believe many people never drink water. The Wanyoro take enor-
mous quantities of it, and even little children drink it with the greatest
delight. Yet I have never seen drunken men here as in Europe.

Coffee-drinking is unknown, though the tree grows in the south, and
berries are exported in large quantities from Uganda to the north. The
sugar-cane, which is cultivated everywhere, is eaten, but not made into
sugar.

Very Genteel I

It is remarkable how proud the wives of the chiefs in this country are.
To begin with, they do no cooking; field work and water carrying are
lefl to the servants, and the mistresses sit on their mats and do nothing

EMIiN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE VVANYORO.

707

I by her
n ruling
leir bus-
ed with
king are
he food,
;t, whicb
eat with
se. There
he Wan-
he hands,
ipartment
iking). It
: is in the
ft of it, so

ish is split
d of curing

is the juice
ited. It is
id is more
et at all it
lened artifi-
lurrah, and
ited. This
ihere. The
in Uganda,
take enor-
le greatest
ipe.

south, and

orth. The

made into

:ountry are.
larrying are
Ido nothing

but smoke and talk. For clothing, they affect fine leather imported from
Uganda, covered with material made from bark, and adorn themselves
with rings of brass and copper, strings of pearls round the neck and
waist, sometimes also with anklets. The rings often cover two-thirds of
the forearm. I have seen cuts or scars as ornaments, but only on women
from the south-western districts. •

The food of the people varies extremely according to their rank.
Whereas milk i?^ much liked by all classes, and the fat wives of Kabrega
and the greater chiefs are only permitted to live on milk, except twice a
week salt porridge mixed with broth, and sometimes a handful of raw
salt, the lower classes, unless they are prevented by personal dislike or
fear, eat whatever their limited agriculture and the animal worla afford
them. Kabrega himself eats bananas and beef only, and drinks milk
and mwcnge. .His cook, as also all his body-servants, are united to him
in blood-brotherhood. To perform this ceremony a slight incision is
made with a razor above the fifth rib on the right side. Coffee-berries
are soaked in the blood, and are exchanged and eaten by those partici-
pating in the rite. The covenant thus made lasts for life. The parties
to it never desert one another in danger, and frequent the houses and
converse with each other's wives without constraint or suspicion. A
case of breach of faith has never been known.

Among the narcotics used, tobacco, which is much smoked by both
sexes, takes the first place. The tobaccos from Nkole and the highlands
of Uganda are considered the best. The pipe-bowls are spherical, large,
and strong, and are attached to long stems, which in Londu are formed
of two pieces tied together with skin, and are as much as five feet long.
Everyone has his own pipe ; but when he happens not to have it with
him, he takes a few whiffs from his neighbor's. .The larger the bowl of
the pipe, the greater the gentleman who uses it ; I have seen bowls
which would easily hold a pound of tobacco ; they are half filled with
glowing embers and half with tobacco ; perhaps the carbonic oxide
increases the soothing effect of the tobacco. The most singular pipes I
have yet seen are thoso used by Unyoro magicians ; a huge twin bowl,
ornamented all over with short conical spikes, is fastened to a short

heavy stem.

Treating: Friends With Coffee-berries.

In addition to tobacco, coffee-chewing is also indulged in in Unyoro
and Uganda. The coffee-tree grows in the southern portions of both
countries ; it resembles the tree I have seen in Southern Arabia, only
that the leaves of the kind which grows he*-'* are larger. The pods are

*<ii

!•'.

708

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

yj!

gathered when still green, dipped in hot water and dried in the sun, and
then sold and consumed without further preparation. Many persons,
however, partially roast the pods. The taste of the pod is peculiarly aro-
maitic, and causes a slight secretion of saliva; I could never discover any
other effect ; on the contrary, the natives maintain that a couple of cof-
ft'c-benies will drive away hunger, and likewise that the berries area
r«medy for over-indulgence in mwenge. It is customary among the
better classes to offer one another a few coffee-berries.

My attention was repeatedly aroused in the evening by a drumming,
rapping noise, which continued far into the night. It was produced by
the collectors of ants, who light a fire beside the ant-hills and, as they
imagine, induce the male ants to swarm out more rapidly by beating
pieces of wood together. These insects are eaten raw or roasted.

It is a curious fact that, among all the Negro tribes in this part of
Africa, domestic animals, kept in confinement, are exceedingly rare. The
Negro's mind is not adapted for taming wild animals ; his nature is entirely
negative. Here and there one comes across a domesticated wild cat, or
perhaps a house-cat brought from the north. The dogs are of medium size,
with slightly pointed muzzles; they carry their rather long, short-haired
tails erect, are lop-eared, long-bodied, lean, and usually of a buff-color.

Wild Sports in Unyoro.

Hunting parties often take place. When they are arranged privately,
those that take part in them choose the leader among themselves ; but
when they are set on foot by the chief of the tribe, he appoints the
leader. The man who throws the first .spear at an animal receives a fore-
foot if it is killed. The division of the booty is effected by general
agreement. If the game runs on to ground belonging to another man,
and dies there, the owner* receives the right fore-foot. If a leopard or
lion is killed near the king's dwelling, the whole animal is carried to him;
if the place where the animal is slain is too far off, only the skin is
brought to the king. When people kill one of these animals on foreign
soil, the skin belongs to the king of the country. One tusk of all ele-
phants slain belongs by right to the king, the other may be kept by the
hunter, but the king usually gives him a girl in exchange.

The huts of Kabrega's capital are grouped in threes and fours, sur-
rounded by straw fences, and hidden away in banana woods and in
depressions of the ground ; but being scattered about in lan^ge groups,
they cover a great extent of ground ; there may be, perhaps, more than
a thousand of them. Mo.st of them have two r6oms and high doors with
porches.

EMIN PASHAS DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

709

Some five or six smithies are scattered about the village, each employ-
ing four or five workmen. A large flat stone, with a smooth even sur-
face, driv"?n into the ground, serves as an anvil ; a solid piece of iron,
one end of which is beaten into* the form of a handle, does service as a
hammer. There are, too, goCird-bowls filled with water to temper the
iron, some small pitchers for melting copper and brass, and a contrivance
made of wood for wire-drawing. Native iron, copper, and brass are
worked into spear-heads, knives, razors, arm and leg rings, and necklaces,
but the workmanship is by no means superior. Brass and copper come
from Zanzibar through Uganda. The smithies are also meeting-places
for all lovers of gossip. Guns are repaired by Waganda smiths, who
come here periodically, but they are very exorbitant ; for example,
demand a female slave in exchange for a gun.

The preparation of cow-hide for clothing is very simple. The hide is
tightly stretched on level ground by a large number of small pegs, and
then scraped with knives until all bits of flesh are removed ; then it is
dried, and rendered pliant by rubbing in butter. Every fall of rain
makes the hide stiff again, and then fresh rubbings are necessary; that
this process is not exactly agreeable to the olfactory organs of the
bystanders is evident. Every one wears hides and bark cloths ; men
prefer cow-hides, women goat's-hides, four of which sewn together make
a dress. The manufacture of cloth from the bark of various kinds of
ficr-trees, which are planted in banana groves, has been fully described by
Baker, and likewise the mallet, which is used for beating it. This cloth
is also made here ; but the finer, handsomer pieces, those in particular
with black patterns, which only Kabrega wears, come only from Uganda,
where the people excel in the manufacture of these goods.

A Celebrated Witeli.

I saw an elderly woman, wearing a fantastic head-dress of feathers and
skins, sitting in an isolated hut; I was told that she was a very famous
witch; she would not, however, enter into conversation, but went on
patching up her torn dress perfectly unconcerned.

About midnight I was awakened by a great commotion, and saw two
houses in the village in flames. Fortunately there was no wind blowing.
Everything was damp from the daily rains, and therefore the men sv)on
succeeded in subduing the fire. No excitement of any kind was percept-
ible, fires being of too frequent occurrence. As before stated, the floors of
the houses are padded with a thick layer of hay, and the fireplace stands in
the middle of the house. Very often, too, the master of the house lies
down to sleep intoxicated, with his pipe alight, and so the mischief is done.

,|:ai

710

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

n- '

When two families are on friendly terms, and wish to make a match
between their children, the two fathers, in the first place, visit each other
twice or thrice to drink mwenge, and on such occasions many guests are
invited. Then the bride's father goes to the father of the bridegroom,
and offers him his daughter " for friendship's sake." After this, the price
of the bride is discussed and fixed, and a great feast follows, to which
both parties contribute. A few days after the stipulated sum has been
paid, the bride is fetched in the midst of a large procession ; amidst sing-
mg and dancing, and copious libations of mwenge, the way is taken to the
bridegroom's house, where she is handed over to the bridegroom, and the
whole company spends the night in singing, dancing, and drinking.

The father of the bride receives for himself and his people the two
hindquarters of the ox slaughtered on this occasion by the bridegroom's
father. On the thii d day after the completion of the marriage, the whole
village assembles to pad the hut of the newly wedded couple with hay,
when fresh libations follow. On the sixth day after the wedding, the
young wife vis'ts her parents, and during this visit, of three or four days'
duration, the husband keeps aloof. Fresh drinks given by the father of
the bride bring the ceremonies to a conclusion. The young wife then
returns to her house, and if her husband is in good circumstances, passes
her time in smoking, coffee-chewing, idling, and paying visits.
Paying^ for a Wife by Installments.

If a man marries, and his wife falls ill and dies during a visit to her
father's house, the husband either demands a wife — a sister of the deceased
— in compensation, or receives two cows. There are instances of a man
putting away his wife and afterwards taking her back again, a cow being
killed on her return. When a poor man is unable to procure the cattle
required for his marriage at once, he may, by agreement with the bride's
fither, pay them by installments ; the children, however, born in the
meantime belong to the v/ife's father, and each of them must be redeemed
with a cow.

Should the head of a house die without children, his brother inherits
everything, even the wives ; if there are several brothers, the younger
ones receive small shares in goods and wives, accord.ijg to the good
pleasure of the eldest, who is the chief heir. When there are no brothers,
tht chief of the tr'be inherits. But when there are sons, the eldest in
herits all that is left by his father, the wives included, who, with the
exception of his own mother, become his wives. The younger sons
receive two women, two cows, and as much of the other property as the
principal heir will give them. Wives and daughters have no share in the

EMIN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

711

ke a match
each other
y guests are
bridegroom,
lis, the price
vs, to which
m has been
amidst sing-
taken to the
oom, and the
inking,
ople the two
bridegroom's
ge, the whole
»le with hay,
wedding, the
or four days'
the father of
ng wife then
tances, passes
its.

visit to her

the deceased

ces of a man

I, a cow being

ire the cattle

Ith the bride's

born in the

be redeemed

Lther inherits
the younger
to the good
no brothers,
the eldest in
Irho, with the
younger sons
Dperty as the
lo share in the

inheritance under any circumstances. If at the death of the head of the
house there is a daughter left under age, the principal heir brings her up,
and marries her. In default of male relations, the chief of the tribe fills
their place, and usually takes such girls into his harem.

How Crime is Punished.

Theft is punished in Unyoro by confiscation of cattle or women for tlie
benefit of the person robbed. When a man is killed, the nearest relatives
of the murdered man have the right to seize the murderer and kill him
with a spear, and they receive, besides, a cow from the family of the mur-
derer. But should the murderer escape, and they apply to the chief of
the tribe to procure the punishment of the guilty man, the chief receives
from them nine cows and three sheep or goats as his due, in return for
which he causes the murderer to be seized and killed, and exacts pay-
ment of the cow. Adultery, provided the injured man surprises the
offender, is atoned for by a fine of four cows. If the chief is called upon
to interfere he receives a cow. The guilty wife is beaten, and she may
also be divorced, in which case a very curious ceremony takes place.

The injured husband cuts a piece of bark in two, half of which he
keeps himself, and the other half is sei t with the wife to her fa^^her.
When the cows formerly paid as the price of the bride are restored, this
piece is returned to the husband, who then burns both pieces. Wives
are seldom put away because they are childless, and the man is always
blamed who does it. I have myself seen a curious punishment. One of
the men who had been assigned to me here as servants had tied a string
round his wife's neck, and fastened her to a tree, where she had to remain
the whole night ; and this — because she had told him a lie.

The whole of Unyoro is divided into large districts, over each of which
a makungo, temporarily appointed by the king, presides, whose duty it
is to collect the contributions of cattle, corn, etc., due to the sovereign,
and to administer justice; but he does not possess the right of pronounc-
ing the sentence of death, which belongs to the monarch alone — not as
in Uganda, where every makungo may put a man to death. Appeals are
often made to the king by those sentenced by the makungo. The peti-
tioner kneels down before Kabrega's door at a distance of ten paces, an-\
sets forth his requests. Kabrcga then decides — not always in favor of
the makungo. A makungo is dependent for provisions for himself and
those belonging to him on the district he administers, in which he culti-
vates large tracts by means of his own slaves, and has his own herds.
If he acquits himself of I is duties ,well, he remains in office; if not. a
small executive force is sent by the king, his zeriba is surrounded, and

wo ADDERS OF THE TROPICS.

:L:'j.. ..

everything it contains — wives, children and herds, v,'ith the exception of
grown-up sons — is confiscated on behalf of the king. Another makungo
is appointed, who immediately enters into his office. They are bound to
present themselves from time to time at the king's court with presents.

Punishments consist for the most part in the confiscation of girls,
women, and cows ; a sentence of death is but seldom decreed by the
king, for, as Kabrega very justly observed to me, *' a dead man pays no
taxes." Here, as in Uganda, the bodies of those who are put to death
may not be buried, but are thrown into tall grass.

" The Kt ig » CatUe."

7 e only place ir the l'\ , ?r . iio i^istrict where I have seen smooth,
fat cattle, is Kabrega's ca oii ■, ' ; y pass by to the watering-place every
afternoon, about 1,500 in nUi* .ir, r,^ t of them humpless, with enorm-
ously long horns. It is a pleasure to sti the stately animals climb the
steep mountain like goats ; most of them are gray, but some are entirely
light brown.

The cows, which supply milk for Kabrega's personal consumption, are
kept quite separate; they are milked in his presence in the morning, and
then go to pasture, escorted by a man and a boy. The boy goes before
them calling out loudly " the king's cattle ; " and every one who happens
to be near must withdraw as quickly as possible if he does not wish to
be killed. When I asked the reason, I was answered, there were people
whose look could turn milk into blood.

The daughters of Kabrega's subjects are unconditionally at his dis-
posal, but he marks his approval of any particularly attractive girl by
giving her father a present of cattle. He possesses also, in accordance
with the universal Wahuma custom, all the wives of his deceased father.

Should the monarch die, all the tutors of the princes at once assemble
and determine which of the sons of the deceased king is the best and
fittest to be his successor. Naturally, the decision is seldom unanimous,
but parties are formed, and war breaks out, and continues until one ot
the princes overcomes his rivals, and gains possession of the throne,
standing in the mortuary hut of his father, whereupon his authority is
recognized. Then his brothers and nearest relations, with few excep-
tions, are killed, for so custom demands ; in Uganda they are burned.

Legrend of the Creation.

In primeval times, says the Wanyoro, people were numerous on the
earth. They never died, but lived forever. But as they became pre-
sumptuous, and offered no gifts to the " great Magician," who rules the
destinies of men, he grew angry, and, throwing the whole vault of

EMIN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

713

heaven down upon the earth, killed them all. But in order not to leave
the earth desolate, the " great Magician " sent down a man and woman
" from above," both of whom hi^d tails. They produced a son and two
daughters, who married. One daughter bore a loathsome beast, the
chameleon ; the other a giant, the moon. Both children grew up, but
soon disputes arose between th- n, for the chameleon was wicked and
spiteful, and ai ist the "great Magician " took the moon up to the place
whence it still looks dowii upon the earth. But, to keep in remembrance
its earthly "^rir:.:, it becomes large and brilliant, and then decreases, as
though about to die, yet does not die, but in two days passes around the
horizon from east to west, and appears again, tired from its journey and
therefore small, in the western sky. But the sun was angry with the new-
rival, and burnt it so that the marks are still visible on '^s face. The
chameleon and its progeny peopled the earth, the tails wr e ) t, and the
originally pale color of the skin soon became dark ur er i glowing
sun. At the present time the heavenly spheres are i' ' ib^tcd by people
with tails, who have many herds. The stars are watch, en which the
" great Magician " posts during the night. The s -» is inhabited by
giants.

The belief in magic and amulets, as well as in the possibility of mak-
ing people ill, or even compassing their death by means of charms and
incantations, is widely diffused in Unyoro and Uganda. Naturally no
trace is to be found of the idea of a future life. In both countries the
women are buried in the court of the house thty have occupied to the
right-hand side of the door, the men to the left of it. The graves are
horizontal, and three to four feet deep. The corpse lies on the right
side, as' is usual in sleep. The Wanyoro, however, who live on the
Albert Lake, bury their dead, men or women, in the middle of the court-
yard, and erect above the grave a miniature hut, in which tobacco, pipes,
bananas, etc., are dec''.;ited. Young children are everywhere buried in
the garden which adjoins each house.

Curious SuperstlLtions.

Africa seems to be the original hotne of superstition. If an owl
screeches near the house, its master dies. If a hysena or a jackal repeat-
edly approaches the house, misfortune is at hand ; when the rhinoceros-
bird croaks, rain may be looked for. If a wagtail sings on the thresh-
old, guests or presents arrive. If a man kills wagtails in the house, fire
breaks out in it. ' If a wagtail forsakes its nest made in the house, misfor-
tune is near. Vultures and ravens are chiefs among the birds, and their
slaughter causes illness. If vultures alight on the top of a poor man's

\ ^t

.^r J

714

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

|:;^n

house, he will receive rich gifts and presents. A piece of the hide of the
white rhinoceros, worn on the body, makes a man invulnerable. If a
woman is the first to enter the house in the morning, it is a good sign ;
if a man, the contrary. An eclipse of the sun announces the death of
the ruler. If on moving from one house to another, anything is broken
or a woman falls on the way, the family returns to the house it has just
Jeft. If, on starting for a campaign, a buffalo runs across the path, or a
guinea-fowl flies up before the warriors, this portends the death of many
men, and everyone turns back. The bat, which flies into the house
brings news. The Wanyoro spit three times whenever they see a shoot-
ing-star.

According to the Unyoro traditions, elephants and chimpanzees were
once men, and the dog too was gifted with speech, but spoke only to his
master. I give a literal translation of some of these legends.

Legend of the Elephant. — In ancient times a man had an honest son,
but he himself v;as violent, and had taken many cattle from his neigh-
bors. Once upon a time he ordered his son to go and occupy a neigh-
bor's house ; if he did not do so he threatened to kill him. The son
went and slept in that house, but found in the early morning that the
inhabitants had fled. He durst not return home, whilst by himself he
would have starved ; so he prayed the " great Magician " to rescue iiini,
and was thereupon, together with the house, turned into an elephant.

Legend of the Chimpanzee. — An honest man had an only daughter,
and she was wooed by a neighbor for his son, who had turned out badly.
The young couple lived happily for a short time, but when the youn<,^
wife absented herself occasionally from the house to visit her parents,
her husband reproached her with availing herself of this excuse to go
after other men. Each day he treated her worse ; so she fled, and
returned to her father, to whom she related her misfortune, and he, angry
at the stain that had fallen on his own and his daughter's honor, killed
himself. At this moment the son-in-law arrived, and was transformed by
the " great Magician " into a chimpanzee. But the wife, who would not
desert him in spite of all that had happened, followed him, and from them
are sprung the chimpanzees, who still talk among themselves like men^
and have a fondness for women.

CHAPTER XXXII.

EMIN PASHAS PERILOUS SITUATION.

The War of the False Prophet Goes on— Emin's Concern for Amadi— Sends Mes-
sengers to Obtain News— Stirring Reports From the Scene of Conflict— Heroic
Spirit of Some of Emin's Soldiers— Contemptible Treachery of a Part of Emm's
Forces— Presumptuous Letter From the Commander-in Chief of the Mahdist's
Army— Intelligence of Gordon's Death— Exultation Among Moslem Arabs Over
the Death of Gordon— Emin Summons His Officers to a Council of War— Reso-
lution Passed by the Council— General Recommendation of a Retreat South
ward- Emin's PersortW Supervision of the Southward March— Manner in Which
Emin Received the Summons to Surrender— Tlie Equatorial Provinces in a
Perilous Situation— Emin's Letter to Dr. Felkin— News From Eiwland of a Pro-
posed Expedition for FmIu's Relief— Than k.v for Heartfelt Sympathy— Emin's
Expressed Resolve to Remain With His People— Gordon's Self-sacriflcing Work
Must be Carried on -Emin's Statement of What He Wants From England —
Disreputable Arabs- -Emin Anxiously Awaiting the Outcome of Present
Troubles— Destructive Fire and the Loss of the Station at Wadelai— The Station
Re-built— Emin's E:>timate of His Own Supporters— Emphatic Determination
Not to Evacuate the Territory.

'TANLEY'S latest expedition into Africa was undertaken as the
necessary result of Gordon's death and the fall of Khartoum.
The conquest of the Soudan and the building up of a genuine
civilization in Equatorial Africa was undertaken by Gordon in
1874. He wrested the country from the Arab slave-hunters and sent
Emin Pasha to Lado as Governor, under himself, of the southern prov-
ince. This was in 1876, and Emin has lived and ruled in that region
ever since, until brought away by Stanley. He possessed in the highest
degree the true spirit of adventure, and for ten years, until he met Gor-
don, he was wandering about in Turkey, Armenia, Syria and Arabia,
under the name of Dr. Emin, having assumed a Turkish identity and
professed, it is said, the Mahometan faith.

Gordon sent him lo Lado almost as soon as he entered the Egyptian
service, and his administration from the very first, and, indeed, until
Selim Bey and his rebel following deposed him, early in 1889, was a great
moral and financial success. He maintained an army of 2,000 Egyptian
and native soldiers, exterminated the slave-hunters from his province,
established «chools and missions, and gave an enlightened, progressive
and powerfiil, government to a country of 6,000,000 theretofore savage

and ignorant people.

(715)

716

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'Wii\^ '.

' Meanwhile Gordon had left Khartoum, and his successor was unable
to cope with the slave-dealers. The Mahdi, claiming to be a second
Mahomet, had created an Arab uprising, and was conducting a spirited
rebellion against the Anglo-Egyptian government of the Soudan. He
massacred Hicks Pasha's army and created havoc generally. Gordon
was induced by the English government to go to Khartoum and restore
order.

Gordon's Untimely Death,

He was not supported by an efficient military force, however, and
while a relief expedition was slowly crawling up the Nile, his garrison
rebelled and murdered him, giving over the city and the Soudan wholly
to the Mahdi. This left Emin and his province, .south of the Soudan, in
the greatest danger ; in fact, quite at the mercy of the Arabs. Their
extermination was merely a question of when the Mahdi should
feel disposed to attack them. Internal disorders in the prophet's forces
delayed the intended blow, and, while allaying them and preparing for
new conquests, the Mahdi died — probably by violence. His place was
not long vacant. Another Mahdi, claiming divine inspiration, promptly
assumed command of the Arab forces and Emin's situation was rendered
as desperate as before.

We will let Emin relate, with his own pen, the .startling events which
placed him and his scattered army in such extreme peril. For greater
safety he removed from Lado to another station, namely Wadelai,
and from there, in December, 1885, he sent the following thrilling narra-
tive in a letter to his friend. Dr. Schweinfurth, at Cairo. The reader will
understand that Amadi was one of Emin's stations. The Mahdist forces,
already referred to, were bent on conquest.

Being anxious, he says, at the absence of news from Amadi, I sent an
official there to bring me a true report of the state of affairs. Before his
arrival, or rather because they heard he was coming, the officers resolved
on a sortie, which was so successfully carried out that the entrenchments
of the Danagla (the Danagla were part of the Mahdi's forces) were
stormed, their huts burnt, and part of their ammunition destroyed.
Instead, however, of taking advantage of the victory, the commandin<;
officer ordered a retreat, and though the soldiers and officers urged hin:
to complete the work on the next day, nothing was done ; the officers
caroused, the men suffered hunger. All that was left of money and ^oods
in the magazine was wasted, and the fate of Amadi can no longer be
doubtful.

I had written many times to the officer in command, ordering him to send

EMIN PASHA'S PERILOUS SITUATION.

717

the sick and wounded to Lado, and the women and children to Makraka,
and finally, should the enemy's forces become too large, to retreat in
go. i time to Lado, which is well and strongly fortified, or to enter Mak-
raka, where there is plenty of corn. But I had received either no answer
at all to my letters, or they were so worded that it was evident that sor-
did self-interest had pushed into the background all thoughts of the wel-
fare and troubles of the province, and of the honor of the Government
we serve. In any case, I gave orders to the chief of Makraka to take
corn and reinforcements to Amadi as quickly as possible, even though
the letter should consist only of armed Negroes ; but he did not
carry out my qrders, for he could not leave the wretched Makraka
spirits.

On the 2 1st and 22d of February I at last received more news from
Amadi. Keremallah (commander of the Mahdi's forces) had arrived there
in person with a large following of clerks — including those that had been
sent from here — soldiers, and Danagla. He had written to Murjan Aga,
the commandant of Amadi, summoning him to surrender. A Soudanese
officer from the Bahr-el-Ghazal (a district in Emin's province), attended
by some soldiers, had also paid a visit to Murjan Aga, and invited him
to join the champions of the faith, but had not uttered a word about
Khartoum, and Murjan Aga had been so accommodating as to let him
withdraw unmolested. I can give the remaining incidents concerning
Amadi in a few words. In a very short time the station was surrounded
on all sides, and cut off even from the river, though the distance from it
is very short, and then the brave soldiers had to endure days of
great hardship.

Evacuation of Amadi.

When the chief of Makraka did at last come up with reinforcements,
and when men, hastily collected from all the neighboring stations,
appeared before Amadi, they were too late too break through the block-
ade. I cannot ''ven yet understand why the commandant of Amadi,
knowing, as he d. 1, that relieving forces had arrived within two hours'
march of the station, never attempted a sortie. The soldiers before
Amadi were again and again led to the attack by their offices, but lost
their courage, and at last ran away. The chief of Makraka, instead of
sticking to his post, collected his scattered men, and went '^ack to Mak-
raka and his spirits. All was then given up for lost.

Three soldiers from Amadi came into Lado on March 29. They
related that the soldiers had repeatedly urged their officers to make a
sortie and cut their way through, but that the latter had always hung

718

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

|M!

We %:

kJ\, <t*

iV '

back, and probably intended tp yield to the enemy. At last the men
became desperate, and, led by six brave officers, left aga-nst the will of
their superiors, cut their way through the Danagla, inflicting heavy
losses on them, and took the road (at least most of them did) to Mak-
raka. Murjan Aga followed them at last when he found himself deserted.
All the soldiers had taken their arms and ammunition with them. The
commandant of Amadi and two of his officers had actually planned d
surrender, and had addressed a letter to Keremallah with this intention,
but the greater part of the officers retained their honor amidst many
faults, and the soldiers in particular behaved splendidly, though for nine-
teen days they lived on cow-hides, and at last ate their sandals, while
their superior,s drank spirits and made themselves comfortable.

A Desperate Move.

On April i the civil and military officers in Lado handed me a docu-
ment, wherein they petitioned that all the stations in the south should be
given up, and that we should restrict ourselves to the line from Lado to
Kiri. Suicidal as such a suggestion was, for we should then be confined
to the most unfruitful part of the province, and consequently throw our-
selves into the jaws of famine, besides catting ourselves off from the only
way of retreat which would at last be open to us — unfortunate as this
motion was, periuasion would have e/fected little, and so I had to give at
least an apparent consent, and issue the necessary orders.

According to the last news that had reached us, the Danagla had sent
off skirmishing parties to within two days' march of Lado, in order to
incite the Negroes against us, and had then concentrated themselves in
Amadi. Letters also arrived from Keremallah The first, a kind of
official dispatch, told me of the events that had taken place in and
around Amadi, said that the garrison, though summoned five times to
surrender, had refused, that then the siege was commenced, and that
finally the soldiers had forced their way through, and had taken the road
to Makraka. Murjan Aga, the commander of Amadi, accompanied by
the lieutenant Rabih Aga, had been overtaken on the way, and both had
been slain, their heads being taken to Amadi.

More than two hundred deserters, Dragomans, were in Amadi, besides
many soldiers and officers. The letter concluded with a summons tc
appear at Amadi with the higher officials of the province within ten days;
othciwisc he, Keremallah, would mnrch from Amadi against Lado;
whatever might then happen would be my own fault.

The second, also from Keremallah, but directed to me privately,
informed me that he was only coming to support me ; no harm should

Pi'lj

EMIN PASHAS PERILOUS SITUATION.

719

happen to me if I would come and surrender. The third letter is signed
by some of our own people, who have joined the Danagla in Amadi.
These informed me that the officers in Amadi were drunk night and day,
while the soldiers ate old leather and hides to appease their hunger, and
they invited me to give myself up, for that they, the writers, hid not
received any bad treatment from the rebels. As Khartoum is not even
mentioned in any of these letters, we may almost conclude that our oppo-
nents had also received no news from there for a long time. The bearers
of the letters were two Negroes of Amadi.

Meanwhile the Danagla had not remained idle, but had pushed forward
their outposts again to within three days' march of Lado, and had insti-
gated the Negroes to slay unmercifully any stragglers from Amadi, and
to close the road to Makraka. A detachment of the enemy had dis-
persed the few officers and soldiers in Kamari, near Wandi (another mili-
tary station), and then marched against Wandi, which was untenable
owing to its position. The soldiers therefore retired in good order
towards Rimo, intending to take the road from there to Rejaf But before
they reached it, the Danagla attacked them fiercely, and were thoroughly
defeated, losing a large number of men, and flying precipitately. The
march forward was then commenced, and detachment after detachment
arrived safely at Beden, with, their sick men and followers. I sent some
clerks and officials from Lado, where scarcity of corn prevailed, to the
south and to Gondokoro, where they could find food, and I was myself
engaged in an inspection of the fortifications, when, on April 18, I was
again honored by despatches from Keremallah.

Gordon and His Men Slain.

The letters contained the usual invitations to us all to join the cham-
pions of the faith, but the most important communication was the news
that Khartoum had fallen. I should find the details, he said, in an
enclosed copy of a letter from the Mahdi. This letter container the
news that Khartoum was taken by storm on the morning of Monday,
January 25, and that everyone in it was slain except- the women ano v:hil-
dien. Gordon, the enemy of God, had refused to surrei der, and he and
his men had fallen ; the Mahdi had lost ten men only. The letter, writ-
ten in old-fashioned Arabic, and imitating in its expressions the older
chapters of the Koran, concluded with an injunction to Keremallah to
act in a similar manner here and in the Bahr-el-Ghazal. I returned no
ansvcr at all to these letters.

On the 2d of April a reinforcement of 130 men marched into Lado,
and on the 24th I called together a council of all the officers to discuss

iT*h

720

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the measures to be adopted to save us from famine, and to guard against
unnecessary exposure to danger. After mature deliberation, and when 1
had retired for half an hour, resigning the chair to Majoi Rihan Aga, in
order that the decision might be quite impartial, the following resolution
was carried, in the presence of Captain Casati, an Italian officer: " Con-
jidering that there is not corn enough in northern stations to support the
men that have come from Kakraka as well as our ovv'n people, that the
next harvest is still far off, that by sending out foraging parties we should
exhaust our meagre supply of ammunition and be left at the mercy of
the Negroes, while, on the other hand, it is impossible to procure corn
by any other means — having regard to all these circumstances, it is
resolved that the women and children shall be sent to the south, that the
stations shall be occupied by soldiers only, to the exclusion of all civil-
ians, and that they shall be given up if needful, so that all our strength
may be concentrated in the south. The line of retreat to be chosen
towards the south, because the route northwards beyond Bor is impassa-
ble, and, further, we do not know whether Khartoum has not actually
fallen, while we possess strong points of support in the south at Dufile
and Wadelai, where there is plenty of corn and rich lands in the rear,
Finally, we should have a chance of sending letters and men to Zanzibar
and Egypt, or, if everything went against us, of throwing ourselves into
the arms of Kabrega or Mtesa's son." The requisite orders were issued
immediately ; three compinies remained in Lado under the command of
Majo^ Rihan Aga. All the civil functionaries had already been sent
southwards, while I only and three clerks were left.

Emin*s Heroism.

It will be seen from the foregoing account that Emin was driven from
one point to another, and that very dangerous enemies were resolved to
overturn his government. It is one of the surprising features of the sit-
uation that he never once thought of his own peril, never gave up the
hope of holding his province, was not slain by any murderous hand, did
not count his owii toils and dangers, and with each repulse only nervcil
himself to greater courage and effort, and still fondly clung to his cher-
ished purpose. He proved himself to be a heroic soul,*and history will
write his name high on the scroll of honor.

In a very interesting letter to his friend and former traveller, Dr. R,\V.
Felkin, of Scotland, dated at Wadelai, April 17, 1887, Emin says :

Some Etjglish newspapers, from which I k^rn that it has been pro-
posed to send us help, have been received, i ou can imagine yourself
better than I can tell you that the heartfelt sy.«.pathy which has been

i! } tt

guard against
sn, and when 1
Rilian Aga, in
ing resolution
officer : " Con-
to support the
leople, that the
.rties we should
t the mercy of

I procure corn
instances, it is
south, that the
ion of all civil-

II our strength
t to be chosen
Bor is impassa-
las not actually
south at Dufile
,ds in the rear,
nen to Zanzibar
k ourselves into

ers were issued
le command of
^ady been sent

as driven from
'ere resolved to
tures of the sit-
ter gave up the
erous hand, did
,se only nerved
.ig to his clier-
nd history will

/eller,Dr.R.\V.

J in says :

has been pro-
nagine yourself
Ihich has been

EMIN PASHAS PERILOUS SITUATION.

721

expressed for me and my people in England, and the many friends we
appear to have made, have given me extreme pleasure, and have richly
repaid me for many of the sorrows and hardships I have undergone. I
could never have believed that I, a stranger, and my poor people, could
have received such generous thoughts, and that any one would be ready
to make such sacrifices for us. If, however, the people in Great Britain
think that as soon as Stanley or Thomson comes I shall return with
them, they greatly err. I have passed twelve years of my life here, and
would it be right of me to desert my post as soon as the opportunity
for escape presented itself? I shall remain with my people until I see
perfectly clearly that both their future and the future of our country is safe.

Gordou's Selt-sacriflclngr TVork.

The work that Gordon paid for with his blood, I will strive to carry
on, if not with his energy and genius, still according to his intentions
and in his spirit. When my lamented chief placed the government of
this country in my hands, he wrote to me : " I appoint you for civiliza-
tion and progress' sake." I have done my best to justify the trust he
had in me, and that I have to some extent been successful and have won
the confidence of the natives is proved by the fact that I and my hand-
ful of people have held our own up to the present day in the midst of
hundreds and thousands of natives. I remain here the last and only rep-
resentative of Gordon's staff. It therefore falls to me, and is my bounden
duty, to follow up the f oad he showed us. Sooner or later a bright
future must dawn for these i ountries ; sooner or later these people will
be drawn into the circle of the ever-advancing civilized world. For
twelve long years I have striven and toiled, and sown the seeds for future
harvest — laid the foundation stones for future ouildings. Shall I now
give up the work because a way may soon open to the coast ? Never !

If England wishes really to help us, she must try, in tb^ first place, to
conclude some treaty vv^ith Uganda and Unyoro, by which the condition
of those countries may be improved both morally and politically. A safe
road to the coast must be opened up, and one which shall not be at the
mercy of the moods of childish kings or disreputable Arabs. This is
all we want, and it is the only thing necessary to permit of the steady
development of these countries. If we possessed it, w^ could look the
future hopefully in the face. May the near future bring the realization
of these certainly modest wishes, and may we be perniittcd, after all the
trials which God has seen fit to bring us through, to see a time of peace
and prosperity in Central Africa.

You can imagine with what anxiety I look for the outcome of things,

1.: i!

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722

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

fj'ffe

and how I count the days whic'' must still pass before I receive definite
news. I thank God that I am still able to work and to keep my people
well in hand. As long as I have plenty to occupy me, I seem to forget
all trials, of which we have, unfortunately, only too many. I had only
just returned here from Rejaf, when, owing to the stupidity of the
Negroes living near this station in burning the grass during a gale of
wind, the flames spread, and Wadelai was burned to the ground. With
the help of the neighboring Negro chiefs, I have been able to rebuild
the station, which is now much handsomer than before. It was only by
tremendous exertions that we were able to save our arms and ammuni-
tion, but all else became a booty to the flames. It is true that we had
not much to lose, but what little we had was very precious, and its loss
all the more grievous.

Things go on with us in the same way as before. We sow, we reap,
we spin, and live day after day as usual; but February was an unlucky
month, for in nearly every station fires broke out. This was due to the
exceptionally strong winds in that month, and to the carelessness of the
natives in burning the grass. We have docked our steamers, and
renewed them as much as possible; and, besides this, we have built
several boats, so you see we have plenty to do. I have been obliged to
evacuate Lado, as it was impossible for me to supply the garrison there
with corn ; but, as a set-o'"f to the loss of this station, I have been aMe
to reoccupy the district of Makraka.

At present, therefore, we occupy nearly all the stations which ,vere
originally entrusted to me by General Gordon ; and I intend and expect
to keep them all. I should like here again to mention that if a relief
expedition comes to us, I will on no account leave my people. We have
passed through troublous times together, and I consider it would be a
shameful act on my part were I to desert them. They are, notwithstand-
ing all their hardships, brave and good, with the exception of the Egyp-
tians. We have known each other niary years, and I do not think it
would be easy at present for a stranger to take up my work and to win
at once the confidence of the people. It is therefore out of the question
for me to leave, so I shall remain. All we would ask England to do, is
to bri'ig about a better understanding with Uganda, and to provide us
with a ii^c ;> id safe way to the coast. This is all we want. Evacuate
our territory ? Certainly not !

I: hi}i aiitafiy li ^.n staf- d th: c Emin was much averse to abandoning
his p. '>v>'.,a. Ii^ >nc of the preceding chapters Dr. Felkin reiterates this
purpor.«; whi«.h is ireely expressed in the foregoing letter.

:eive definite
p my people
;m to forget
I had only
Didity of the
ng a gale ol
ound. With
lie to rebuild
t was only by
and ammuni-
! that we had
3, and its loss

sow, we reap,
is an unlucky
/as due to the
Icssness of the
steamers, and
we have built
pen obliged to
garrison there
ave been aMc

)ns which .vere
pnd and expect
I that if a relief
)ple. We have
it would be a
I, notwithstand-
In of the Egyp-
\o not think it
^rk and to win
)f the question
gland to do, is
to provide us
mt. Evacuate

Ito abandoning
reiterates this

CHAPTER XXXIII.
STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION.

Stanley Again in Africa— Fears for the Safety of Emin Pasha— King of the Bolgiane
Resolves to Send an Expedition— E>eciding upon a Route— Stanley States th(;
Character of the Expedition— A Country That Does Not Pay— Bees' Wax and
India Rubber— Cutting off the Nile— A Country That Might Be Starved— Stanky
States That His Mission is Pacific — Stanley's Old Friend Tipotipo - Six Hundred
Men Enlisted— Meeting the Expenses of the Journey— The Expedite )ii Leaves
Zanzibar for the Mouth of the Congo — Overland Journey of Nearly Seventeen
Hundred Miles— Appalling Difficulties— Transporting Munitions and Stores-
Difficulty to Obtain Porters— Mystery of the "White Pasha "—Gigantic Fals*-
hooid Told Concerning Emin— Gloomy Predictions— Fears for the Safety ol
Stanley — The Whole Expedition Thought to Have Been Massacred— Blundens
Committed in the Soudan and East Africa— Hostile Relations Between the Na-
tive Tribes— Dangers Always Threatening a Passing Caravan — Marauders Eager
for Plunder— Stanley's Selection of the Congo Route Criticized.

HE King of the Belgians resolved to send a relief expedition to
Emin Pasha. This was in December, i886. Only a few days
previous to this Mr. Stanley had arrived in New York after
an absence of thirteen years. When the new expedition was
resolved upon, Mr. Stanley was immediately summoned by the King of
the Belgians to take command. His stay in the United States was cut
short, and he girded himself again for another journey in the wilds o(
Africa. That he was moved by humane impulses ; that he w as interested
in tropical exploration ; that he felt it his duty to render . to one who
was in a critical situation — is evident from the facts in tht ise. At once
there was a great deal of discussion concerning the jout lo be taken in
order to reach Emin Pasha. There were those who tl ight that the
expedition should travel inland from Zanzibar, but Mr anley resolved
to proceed by way of the Congo. He describes expedition as

follows:

The expedition is non-military — that is to say. its purpose is not to
fight, destroy, or waste ; its purpose is to save, to relieve distress, tocan-y
comfort. Emin Pasha may be a good man, a brave officer, a gallant fel-
low deserving of a strong effort of relief, but I decline to believe, and 1
have not been able to gather from any one in England, an r.ipression that
hij life, or the lives of the few hundreds under him, would overbalance
the lives of thousands of natives, and the devastation of immense tracts

(723)

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724

WONDERS OP THE TROPICS.

of country which an expedition strictly military ^would naturally cause.
The expedition is a mere powerful caravan, armed with rifles for the pur-
pose of insuring the safe conduct of the ammunition to Emin Pasha, and
for the more certain protection of this people during the retreat home.
But it also has means of purchasing the friendship of tribes and chiefs,
i)f buying food and paying its way liberally.

A Couutry that Doesn't Pay.

Proceeding from England to Cairo, Mr. Stanley made all needed
arrangements with the Egyptian government for his journey. It was
reported that he intended to seize Enjin's province, and make it an Eng-
lish possession, but he said :

The province is not worth taking, at least in the present state of affairs.
The difficulty of transport from either coast is too great, and the expense,
also, to give a return for money. As long as the Nile is closed the Cen-
tral provinces will never pay, and it will be years before it is open again.
Yes, the Central African provinces would be valuable enough were river
communication free. On the east side there is no sufficiently navigable
river, the presence of the tsetse fly prevents the employment of bullocks
and horses, the ground is unsuited for camels, and the African elephant
has never been tamtd, so the only means of transport is by the Wapa-
gari, or native porters, and a precious slow and expensive means it is,
too; for any large trad? purposes it would be utterly inadequate; besides,
the only present trade is in ivory and ebony — ^you know what I mean by
that, I suppose ? and ivory is getting scarcer. Of course, if the Nile
were open there might be a splendid and most remunerative trade in
gum, hides, bees- wax, ind'a-rubber; anything, too, I believe, could be
cultivated to perfection 'n these provinces, and probably the natives would
sooil learn, when once they got to appreciate the benefit of trading, to
grow cotton, tea, gerhans coffee, rice, and the cinchona plant. Some
l)arts are suited well for one kind of plant, other parts for another. Thus,
cotton would grow nearer the coasts, whereas tea and coffee and the cin-
chona plant could be cultivated on the slopes. But, as I said before, the
true transit for trade is by the Nile.

In the course of further conversation he said: Do you know that the
Nile itself could be turned off" with comparative ease ? The Victoria Nyanza
is on a plateau like an inverted basin. It could be made to trickle over
at any poi.it. The present King of Uganda is fond of his liquor; waking
up any morning after drinking too much " mwengi " (plantain wine) over
night he might have what is called " a head on him " and feel in a very
bad temper.

sTaLNEVS last great EXPEDmON.

He might then take it into h- H r""^'^'^""""" ' '''

f's by ordennga thou^do ■:o''::fi 'V"™ "^ '"' ^"«'- "= "'eht do
dropstoncs across the Ripon f1 at T, T,""' ''"'• ""tinue to
do th,s would be quite possible '1^. ""Z' "'''' '^'^^^ '''^ked. To
number of men I menL in nine ron,h r t ~"''' ''^ ''°"« by the

and dykes; but, meanwhile, the Donul!? ^ t^"""" ""^ ^°''y"ervoir5
H.S father, Kinj. Mtesa, on« actuallvt „?" "' ^"^P' »^^"'d be starved
a v.ew of creating mischief, but b«aL' h '''"P''''^'' ^oing thj,, „„( J^

'"" '""^ °f '-d. and for ti,is pu^o e to „T'''^ '" ""'" '""^ P"'

Concernmg his expedition Mr ItT^l "'"^'^ "■•= '=>!<= dribble over it
''em at home, he said, that mym.flt^ ^f '' ^"""^ '™Sth. TeU
t'"nk I an, goi„^ ,„ thro tT bio S"/"^' ''^""^- ^oes anyone

cecdcd, what would be the cnn^ "'' '" S" ■•" K "in > If T .?,"

''•e King. "Stanley is cinrXa^' '''^' ''"""^ ^^ "-"i to"
you know how figures increa'se u h "'^ °^ ""'^^ "-""^^nd men "

"ould be the consequen e ri H„ " r""""=^ ^y ''''^Ses-anTwhl^
■■'■"teach him to b?ing ZlJ^t:'ZTT "" -^'"^'-"^lav'
of the m.,sionaries." A„d whit.I shol kI" I" ^''"^ °'' '"e heads
nun ,, l,fe in co,„paris„„ w,tl, hat ofX 1 ' ""'"■' '' '"^ ™'- of
W|>ckay, L,tchficld, Pore I.oudcl an,l P T ' ' ""■"'' """e men as
'■""■< I would sacrifice them for'.hTlL'lT.^^tr- '^"^ -^-

The foregcinc^i, Mr t'T''.^'""" """■*"•

^'^i-edfa.;;l,'f.fCX*;"-^^^^^

'"""d Tipo-tipo, whom he had n „r ;■• '^"'' ••" Z'">'..bar, whe^ ^^
celebrated journey fron, sea to sea '^sTt '", "''' '''"'" ''« "ad ,w
'-ted for the expedition. Kn^i , was re "f f' "'™ '''^'^ '"^'=4 on- .
»f .vory in his possession, ardVwIsT 1 '°,'"-^^^' " '''^^^- '1-ntI
oward defraying the expenses of he t' "''' """ "°"'d go ar

■ts 'Sir" -- - ~ ". =:;•-:■=■■-

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(736)

STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION.

737

the Cape of Good Hope, but when Stanley arrived on the western coast
at the mouth of the Congo he was still twelve hundred and sixty-six
miles from Aruwimi, from which point he would be four hundred miles
from Emin's capital in the Equatorial Province ; thus making a journey
of nearly seventeen hundred miles from the coast.

Appalling^ Difflciilties.

Pushing on with all possible speed, he was at Aruwimi about the
middle of June, having suffered some delay from ir.'iufTicient transporta
tion, a thing by no means unusual in African exploration. Wishing to
rebuild the storehouses at Stanley Falls, he left men for that purpose,
and very soon began the overland march. He ascended the River
Aruwimi as far as it was navigable, and when he began his land march,
the baggage of the party, consisting of munitions and provisions, had to
be transported on men's backs. A large quantity of rice was taken, as
this is a wholesome and harmless food. Mr. Stanley's steel whale-
boat, which he had brought with him, was found to be of very great
service. Only a sparse population was found in the country through
which they passed. Pearly in August it was reported that Stanley was
advancing without the ammunition and supplies intended for Elmin.
It seems that provisions were very scarce and a large number accom-
panying the expedition were suffering from hunger. Disease had also
broken out, and the fate of the expedition seemed doubtful.

The truth was that Tipo-tipo had not kept his contract, and the five
hundred carriers who were to convey the stores had not put in an
appearance. This, however, was not due to any treachery on the part of
Tipo. For a time Mr. Stanley disappeared, and very soon perplexing
rumors came from Africa, one of which was that he had reached Emm
and brought him relief; another, that he and his party had been mas-
sacred ; another, that he had placed himself at the head of Emin's army
and was advancing on Khartoum, determined to avenge the death of
"Chinese" Gordon, and overthrow the Mahdi ; and still another that he
and Emin had been made prisoners by the Mahdist forces.

Mystery of the *• White Pasha."

There were reports, too, con :erning a mysterious " White Pasha" in
one part of the country, and there were those who firmly believed that
the mysterious White Pasha was none other than Henry M. Stanley, and
chat he had reached Emin's capital, namely, Wadclai. and was now
returning to the coast. On the 15th of December, however, came unex-
pected news from the Red Sea Coast of Egypt that Emin's territory had
been captured by Arabs and that Emin himself and Stuiley had been

'> i

:,;(:fc.

728

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

J4
h

jii> ...

made prisoners. In proof of this, the following letter, which purported
to have been received from a Mahdist officer in the Soudan, was for-
warded. The letter was as follows :

" In the name of the Great God, etc. This is from the least among
God's servants to his Master and Chief Khalifa, etc., We proceeded
with the steamers and army. Reached the town Lado, where Emin,
Mudir of Equator, is staying. We reached this place 5th Safai, 1306.
We must thank officers and men who made this conquest easy to us
before our arrival. They caught Emin and a traveller staying with him,

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EXPEDITION CROSSING A TEMPORARY BRIDGE.

aud put both in chains. The officers and men refused to go to Egypt
with the Turks. Tewfik sent Emin one of the travellers, whose name is
Mr. Stanley. This Mr. Stanley brought with him a letter from Tewfik to
Smin, dated 8th Jemal Aowal, 1304, No. 81, telling Emin to come with
Mr. Stanley, and gave the rest of the force the option to go to Cairo or
remain. The force rcfuijed tlie Turkish orders, and gladly received us.
I found a great deal of feathers and ivory. I am sending with this, on
board the ' Bordain,' the officers and chief clerk. I am also sending the
letter which came to Emin from Tewfik, with the banners we took from
the Turks. I heard that there is another traveller who came to Emin.

STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION.

729

:h purported
Jan, was for-

least among
/e proceeded
where Emin,
I Safar, 1306.
st easy to us
ing with him,

i^-"" -M*:..

go to Egypt
I whose name is
IfromTewfikto

to come with
ro to Cairo ot
ily received us.
[g with this, on
\so sending the

wc took from
lame to Emin.

but I heard that he returned. I am looking out for him. If he comes
back again, I am sure to catch him. All the chiefs of the province with
the inhabitants were delighted to receive us. I have taken all the arms
and ammunition. Please return the officers and chief clerk when you
have seen them and given the necessary instructions, because they v/il!
be of great use to me."

Gloomy Predictions.
It turned out afterwards that this letter was only a transparent lie, the
object of which was to alarm the British forces and induce them to
abandon the country. Reliable news came from the Stanley expedition
of sufferings and disasters, and multitudes of people were very much
concerned for Mr. Stanley's safety. The following opinion was expressed
by Mr. Joseph Thompson, the well-known African traveller :

" Stanley," he .said, " has met his terrible fate in some such way as
this: He started from the Aruwimi,and almost immediately plunged into
dense forests, to be made worse by swamps further east. Through such
a country liis caravan would have to travel in single file, with probably
no more than twenty men in sight at one time. Under such conditions
it would be impossible for the Europeans to keep in touch with their
men, and thus scattered, thus without officers in a sense, they would fight
at a terrible disadvantage, And fight they would have to for daily food
if nothing else, and consequently with each succeeding week less able
to continue the struggle. In this way they plunged deeper and deeper
into the recesses of the unknown forest and swamp — and deeper and
deeper, no doubt, into the heart of a powerful tribe of natives. And
then the end came. Probably in that last struggle for fife not a soul
escaped. .

" If you ask me why no news, no rumor of that catastrophe leaked
out, I answer because there was no trade, not even a slave route, through
that region. There was no native or Arab merchant to carry the news
from tribe to tribe ; and as each tribe has little but fighting relations with
the neighboring ones, the tidings would not get through by their means.
And, after all, what would the massacre of a passing caravan be to those
savages? Only a common incident not worth speaking about beside the
continual tribal wars they are accustomed to. The one thing they would
find to remark would be the wonderful character of the plunder. Some
day, no doubt, the news will leak out, but it may be months before any-
thing reaches us. It is not much use crying over spilt milk, but one
cannot help lamenting over this probable new disaster. It is all so much
on a par with our terrible blunderings in the Soudan and East Africa.

Hif

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Sciences
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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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(7301

STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION.

731

Only another remarkable man killed, and the magnificent life's work o(
another ruined. But for the selection of the Congo route Stanley might
have been alive, Emin succored, and not improbably the Mahdi's host
defeated."

The foregoing opinion, expressed by a man of experience, who might
be supposed to know what he was talking about, was very generally
approved by those who had but a limited and superficial knowledge of
the dangers which Stanley must have encountered. There was a
readiness to believe that the worst had befallen him. It did not seem
possible for one to plunge into the heart of Africa, cut off all communi •
cation, be gone for a long period of time without having been heard
from, and yet be in the land of the living. Except for the fact that
Stanley had done this very thing on other occasions, the belief that he
had perished would have been much more general.

It was well known that he was fully equipped for his expedition. All
that the most modern inventions and appliances could furnish had been
supplied for the journey. He had provisions, medicines, clothing,
trinkets for the natives, munitions of war, and the latest inventions in
arms. Among other things, he was supplied with an automatic machine
gun, the advantage of which was that it would load rapidly, fire ac-
curately, and carry to a great distance. This would be especially useful
in bringing down heavy game at long range, and also in conflict with
the natives if they should be so daring and, so unwise as to force hos-
tilities.

The interest in this last great expedition of Mr. Stanley has been
almost of a personal character. Multitudes of people who never have
seen the man, never have heard his voice and only know him by repu-
tation, have yet felt toward him almost as if he were an intimate friend ;
they have shared his hardships and trials ; they have wished him
success at every step ; they have waited eagerly for news from the Dark
Continent ; they have rejoiced in his triumphs and have been pained at
the news of his sufferings. So the great explorer, whose fame fills the
world, is not only admired for his heroic achievements, but loved fol
his character and his beneficent mission.

I' 1 I
II I

ii. 'if

?Mr

Kl!

r»

M ? i

■:.\

V. "fi!*

CHAPTER XXXIV.

STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY,

The Great Explorer Heard From— News of Having Reached Emin Pasha — Interest
ing Letter from Mr. Stanley — Story of the Expedition's Movements— Awaiting
the Arrival of a Steamer — Tipo tipo Again on the Scene— Lively Skirmish with
the Natives —Setting Fire to Villages — Making an Attack Under Cover of Smoke-
Proceeding Along the Left Bank of the Aruwimi — Again in the Wilderness— Death
from Poisoned Arrows— Making Steady Progress — Arrival at the Camp— Attempt
to Ruin the Expedition— What Stanley Calls an "Awful Month"— Brighter Pros-
pects Ahead -Extreme Suffering from Hunger — Great Loss in Men — A Halt of
Thirteen Days— View of the Land of Promise— Light After Continuous Gloom ol
One Hundred and Sixty Days — A Battle Imminent— Natives Prepare for War-
fare — Terrible War-cries Ring from Hill to Hill — Treating with the Natives-
Attempt to Drive Back the Expedition — Sharp-shooters Rout the Natives— The
March Resumed — Perilous Descent— Stanley Builds a Fort— Laying Up Stores-
Illness of Stanley — Deaths and Desertions — Stanley Starts Again — Obtaining Sup-
plies — News Again of the "White Man."

HE dark forebodings expressed were not to be realized. The
world was not yet to mourn the loss of one of her grandest ex-
plorers. In the latter part of December, 1 888, less than ten days
from the time the startling prophecies of Stanley's death were
made public, reliable news came that the intrepid hero had reached Emin
Pasha, and that his expedition was a complete success. On the 3d of
April, 1 889, a letter from Mr. Stanley's own hand was published, jiving
a graphic description of his journey, and proving that all the fears and
predictions concerning his fate were happily groundless.

His letter to the chairman of the Emin Pasha Relief Committee was
dated at Bungangeta Island, Aruwimi River, August 23th, 1888, and ran
as follows:

A short dispatch briefly announcing that we had placed the first
installment of relief in the hands of Emin Pasha on the Albert Nyanzz
was sent to you by couriers from Stanley Falls, along with letters to
Tipo-tipo, the Arab governor of that district, on the 17th inst, within
three hours of our meeting with the rear column of the expedition.
I propose to relate to you the story of our movements since June 28th,
1887.

I had established an intrenched and palisaded camp at Yambuya, on
the Lower Aruwiiiii, just below the first rapids. Major Edmund Bartte-
(732)

STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY. 733

lot, being senior of these officers with me, was appointed commandant
Mr. J. S. Jamieson, a volunteer, was associated with him. On the arrival
of all men and goods from Bolobo and Stanley Pool, the officers still
believed Messrs. Troup, Ward, and Bonny were to report to Major
Barttelot for duty. But no important action or movement (according to
letter of instructions given by me to the Major before leaving) was to be
made without consulting with Messrs. Jamieson, Troup, and Ward.
The columns under Major Barttelot's orders mustered two hun'dred and
fifty-seven men.

As I requested the Major to send you a copy of the instructions issued
to each officer, you are doubtless aware that the Major was to remain at
Yambuya until the arrival of the steamer from Stanley Pool with the
officers, men, and goods left behind ; and if Tipo-tipo's promised contin-
gent of carriers had in the meantime arrived, he was to march his column
and follow our track, which so long as it traversed the forest region
would be known by the blazing of the trees, by our camps and zaribas,
etc. If Tipo-tipo's carriers did not arrive, then, if he (the Major) pre-
ferred moving to staying, at Yambuya, he was to discard such things as
mentioned in letter of instructions, and commence making double and
triple journeys by short stages, until I should come down from the
Nyanza and relieve him. The instructions were explicit and, as the offi-
cers admitted, intelligible.

Skirmish witli the Natives.

The advance column, consisting of three hundred and eighty-nine offi-
cers and men, set out from Yambuya June 28th, 1887. The first dav we
followed the river bank, marched twelve miles, and arrived in the large
district of Yankonde. At our approach the natives set fire to their vil-
lages, and, under cover of the smoke, attacked the pioneers who were
clearing the numerous obstructions they had planted before the first
village. The skirmish lasted fifteen minutes. The second day we fol-
lowed a path leading inland but trending east. We followed this path
for five days through a dense population. Every art known to native
minds for molesting, impeding, and wounding an enemy was resorted to;
but we passed through without the loss of a man. Perceiving that the
path was taking us too far from our course, we cut a northf asterly
track, and reached the river again on the 5th of July. From this date
until the i8th of October we followed the left bank of the Aruwimi.

After seventeen days* continuous marching we halted one day for rest.
On the twenty-fourth day from Yambuya we lost two men by desertion.
In the month of July we made four halts only. On the ist of August

I \

■ i

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the first death occurred, which was from dysentery; so that foi thirty-
four days our course had been singularly successful. But as we now
entered a wilderness, which occupied us nine days in marching throufrh
it, our sufferings began to multiply, and several deaths occurred. The

ABYSSINIAN FOOT SOLDIER.

river at this time was of great use to us; our boat and several canoes
relieved the weary and sick of their loads, so that progress, though not
brilliant as during the first month, was still steady.

On the 13th of August we arrived at Air-Sibba. The natives made a

STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY.

735

bold front ; we lost five men through poisoned arrows ; and to our great
grief, Lieutenant Stairs was wounded just below the heart ; but, though
he suffered greatly for nearly a month, he finally recovered. On the 15th
Mr. Jephson, in command of the land party, led his men inland, became
confused, and lost his way. We were not re-united until the 21st.

On the 25th of August we arrived in the district of Air-jeli. Opposite
our camp was the mouth of the tributary Nepoko.

On the 31st of August we met for the first time a party of Manyema,
belonging to the caravan of Ugarrowwa, alias Uledi Balyuz, who turned
out to be a former tent-boy of Speke's. Our misfortunes began from
this date, for I had taken the Congo route to avoid Arabs, that tliey
might not tamper with my men, and tempt them to desert by their pres-
ents. Twenty-six men deserted within three days of this unfortunate
meeting.

On the 1 6th of September we arrived at a camp opposite the station at
Ugarrowwa's. As food was very scarce, owing to his having devastated
an immense region, we halted but one day near him. Such friendly
terms as I could make with such a man I made, and left fifty-six men
with him. All the Somalis preferred to rest at Ugarrowwa's to the con-
tinous marching. Five Soudanese were also left. It would have been
certain death for all of them to have accompanied us. At Ugarrowwa's
they might possibly recover. Five dollars a month per head was to be
paid to this man for their food.

Attempt to Ruin the ^Expedition.

On September 19th we left Ugarrowwa's, and on the i8th of October
entered the settlement occupied by Kilinga-Longa, a Zanzibari slave
belonging to Abed bin Salim, an old Arab, whose bloody deeds are
recorded in " The Congo and the Founding of its Free State." This
proved an awful month to us ; not one member of the expedition, white
or black, will ever forget it. The advance numbered two hundred and
fifty-eight souls on leaving Ugarrowwa's, because out of three hun-
dred and eighty we had lost sixty-six men by desertion and death
between Yambuya and Ugarrowwa's, and had left fifty-six men sick at the
Arab station. On reaching Kilinga-Longa's we discovered we had lost
fifty-five men by starvation and desertion. We had lived principally on
wild fruit, fungi, and a large, flat, bean-shaped nut. The slaves of Abed
bin Salim did their utmost to ruin the expedition. Short of open hos-
tilities, they purchased rifles, ammunition, clothing, so that when we left
their station we were beggared, and our men were absolutely naked.

We were so weak, physically, that we were unable to carry the boat

w fi

'\ri

736

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

■'^i'lii

and about seventy loads of goods ; we therefore left these goods and
boat at Kilinga-Longa's under Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson, ihc
latter of whom was unable to march, and after twelve days' march we
arrived at a native settlement called Ibwiri. Between Kilinga-Longa's
and Ibwiri our condition had not improved. The Arab devastation had
reached within a few miles of Ibwiri — a devastation so complete that
there was not one native hut standing between Ugarrowwa's and Ibwiri
and what had not been destroyed by the slaves of Ugarrowwa and Abetl
bin Salim the elephants had destroyed, and turned the whole region into
a horrible wilderness. But at Ibwiri we were beyond the utmost reach
of the destroyers ; we were on virgin soil in a populous region abound-
ing with food.

Our suffering from hunger, which began on the 31st of August, termiu
nated on the 12th of November. Ourselves and men were skeletons.
Out of three hundred and eighty-nine we now only numbered one hun-
dred and seventy-four, several of whom seemed to have no hope of life
left. A halt was therefore ordered for the people to recuperate. Hitherto
our people were skeptical of what we told them, the sufiering had been
so awful, calamities so numerous, the forest so endless apparently, that
they refused to believe that by and by we should see plains and cattle
and the Nyanza and the white man, Emin Pasha.

Kavages of Hunger.

We felt as though we were dragging them along with a chain around
our necks. " Beyond these raiders lies a country untouched, where food
is abundani and where you will forget your miseries, so cheer up, boys ;
be men, press on a little faster." They turned a deaf ear to our prayers
and entreaties, for, driven by hunger and suffering, they sold their rifles
and equipments for a few ears of Indian corn, deserted with the ammuni-
tion, and were altogether demoralized. Perceiving that prayers and
entreaties and mild punishments were of no avail, I then resorted to visit
upon the wretches the death penalty. Two of the worst cases were
accordingly taken and hung in presence of all.

We halted thirteen days in Ibwiri, and reveled on fowls, goats,
bananas, corn, sweet potatoes, yams, beans, etc. The supplies were inex-
haustible, and the people glutted themselves ; the effect was such that I
had a hundred and seventy-one — one was killed by an arrow — mostly
sleek and robust men, when I set out for the Albert Nyanza on the 24th
of November.

We were still a hundred and twenty-six miles from the lake ; but
with a supply of food, such a distance would seem as nothing,

STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY. 7:?7

On the 1st of December we sighted the open country from the top of
a ridge connected with Mount Pisgah, so named from our first view of
ihe land of promise and plenty. On the 5th of December we emerged
upon the plains, and the deadly gloomy forest was behind us. After a
hundred and sixt)' days of continuous gloom we saw the light of broad
day shining all around us, and making all things beautiful. Wc thought
ue had never seen grass so green or country so lovely. The men liter-
ally yelled and leaped with joy, and raced over the ground with their
burdens. Ah ! this was the old spirit of former expeditions, successfully
jompleted, all of a sudden revived.

A Battle Iiiiiiiiiiciit.
Woe betide the native aggressor we may meet, however powerful he
may be; with such a spirit the men will fling themselves like wolves on
sheep. Numbers will not be considered. It had been the eternal forest
that had made the abject, slavish creatures, so brutally plundered by
Arab slaves at Kilonga-Longa's.

On the 9th we came to the country of the powerful chief Mozamboni.
The villages were scattered over a great extent of country so thickly that
there was no other road except through their villages Dr fi^^lds. From a
long distance the natives had sighted us and were prepared. We seized
a hill as soon as we arrived in the centre of a mass of villages about 4
p. M. on the 9th of December and occupied it, building a zariba as fast as
bill-hooks could cut brushwood. The war cries were terrible from hill
to hill, they were sent pealing across the intervening valleys, the people
gathered by hundreds from every point, war-horns and drums announced'
that a struggle was about to take place. Such natives as were too bold;
we checked with but little effort, and a slight skirmish ended in us cap-
turing a cow, the first beef tasted since we left the ocean.

The night passed peacefully, both sides preparing for the morrow. Oni
the morning of the lOth we attempted to open negotiations. The natives,
were anxious to know who we were, and we were anxious to glean news.
of the land that threatened to ruin the expedition. Hours were passed
jalking, both parties keeping a respectable distance apart. The natives-
said they were subject to Uganda ; but that Kabba-Rega was their real
King, Mozamboni holding the country for Kabba-Rega. They finally
accepted cloth and brass rods to show their King Mozamboni, and his
answer was to be given next day. In the meantime all hostilities were
to be suspended.

The morning of the i ith dawned, and at 8 a. m. we were star-
tled at hearing a man proclaiming that it was Mozamboni's wish that we

47 «

:^:'Mi

'738

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

*frM'

should be driven back from the land. The proclamation was received
by the valley around our neighborhood with deafening cries. Their word
" kanwana," signifies to make peace, " kurwana " signifies war. We were
therefore in doubt, or rather we hoped we had heard wrongly. We sent
an interpreter a little nearer to ask if it was kanwana or kurwana. Kur-
wana, they responded, and to emphasize the term two arrows were sho-
at him, which dissipated all doubt.

Sharp-shootcr.s Drive the Natives,

Our hill .stood between a lofty range of hills and a lower range. On
one side of us was a narrow valley two hundred and fifty yards wide •
on the other side the valley was three miles wide. East and we.st of us
the valley broadened into an extensive plain. The higher range of hills
was lined with hundreds preparing to descend ; the broader valley was
already mustering its hundreds. The'-e was no time to lose. A body of
forty men were sent, under Lieutenant Stairs, to attack the broader val-
ley. Mr. Jephson was sent with thirty men east ; a choice body of sharp-
shooters was sent to test the courage of those descending the slope of
the highest range. Stairs pressed on, crossed a deep and narrow river in
the face of hundreds of natives, and assaulted the first village and took
it. The sharp-shooters did their work effectively, and drove the descend-
ing natives rapidly up the slope until it became a general flight. Mean-
time Mr. Jephson was not idle. He marched straight up the valley east,
driving the people back, and taking their villages as he went. By 3 p. m.
there was not a native visible anywhere, except on ore small hill about
a mile; and a half west of us.

On the morning of the I2th we continued our march ; during the day
we had four little fights. On the 13th marched straight east ; attacked
by new forces every hour until noon, when we halted for refreshments.
These we successfully overcame.

At I p. M. we resumed our march. Fifteen minutes later I cried out,
" Prepare yourself for a sight of the Nyanza." The men murmured and
doubted, and said, " Why does the master continually talk to us in this
way? Nyanza, indeed! Is not this a plain, and can we not see moun-
tains at least four days' march ahead of us." At 1.30 p. m. the Albert
Nyanza was below them. Now it was my turn to jeer and scoff at tiie
doubters, but as I was about to ask them what they saw, so many came
to kiss my hands and beg my pardon, that I could not say a word.
This was my reward. The mountains, they said, were the mountains of
Unyoro, or rather its lofty plateau wall. Kavali, the objective point of
the expedition, was six miles from us as the crow flies.

A'as received
. Their word
ir. We were
;ly. \Vc sent
rwana. Kur-
)\vs were sho'

er range. On
y yards wide ;
ind west of us
r range of hills
ider valley was
ise. A body of
tie broader val-
; body of sharp-
ig the slope of
i narrow river in
I'illage and took
ove the descend-
^1 flight. Mcan-

the valley east,
vent. By 3 p. m.

small hill about

during the dav-
it east ; attacked
"or refreshments.

later I cried out.
n murmured and
dk to us in this
not see moun-
P. M. the Albert
and scoff at the
/, so many came
[not say a word.
the mountains of
bjective point of

STANLKY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF IllS IDUKNKV

■■W)

We wore at an altitude of five thousand tun hundied feet above the
sea. The Albert Nyanza was over two lliousaml nine hun(h-ed below
us. We .stood in i*^ 20' N. lat.; the south end of the Nyanza lay largely
mapped about six miles south of this position. Right across to the

t/i

:astcrii shore every dent in its low, flat shore was visible, and traced like
d silver snake on a dark ground was the tributary Laniliki, flowing into

the Albert from the southwest.

"\:

."i

{

'•'i r

1 ;

• '■

'^Wr

After a short halt to enjoy the j)rospect, wc commenceu the r

Uil'Jt

>ii4<l}

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

and stony descent. Before the rear-guard had descended one hundred
feet, the natives of the plateau we had just left poured after them. Had
they shown as much courage and perseverance on the plain as they nou
exhibited, we might have been seriously delayed. The rear-guard was
kept very busy until within a few hundred feet of the Nyanza plain. VV'c
camped at the foot of the plateau wall, the aneroids readings two thou
sand five hundred feet above sea-level. A night attack was made on us
but our sentries sufficed to drive these nativesjaway.

At 9 A. M. of the 14th we approached the village of Kakongo, situate
at the southwest corner of the Albc-t Lake. Three hours were spent by
us attempting to make friends. We signally failed. They would not
allow us to go to the lake, because we might frighten their cattle. 1 hey
would not exchange blood-brotherhood with us, because they never
heard of any good people coming from the west side of the lake. They
would not accept any present from us, because they did not know who
we were. They would give us water to drink, and they would show us
our road up to Nyam Sassic. But from these singular people we learned
that they had heard there was a white man at Unyoro, but they had
never heard of any white men being on the west side, nor had they seen
any steamers on the lake. There were no canoes to be had, except such
as would hold the men, etc.

Buildingr a Fort.

There was no excuse for quarrelling ; the people were civil enough,
but they did not want us near them. We therefore were shown the path
and followed it a few miles, when we camped about half a mile from the
lake. We began to consider our position, with the light thrown
upon it by the conversation with the Kakongo natives. My couriers
from Zanzibar had evidently not arrived, or, I presume, Emin Pasha with
his two steamers would have paid the southwest side of the lake a visit
to prepare the natives for our coming. My boat was at Kilonga-Longa's,
one hundred and ninety miles distant.

There was no canoe obtainable, and to seize a canoe without the
excuse of a quarrel my conscience would not permit. There was no tree
anywhere of a size to make canoes. Wadelai was a terrible distance off
for an expedition so reduced as ours. We had used five cases of car-
tridges in five days of fighting on the plain. A month of such fighting
must exhaust our stock. There was no plan suggested which seemed
feasible to me, except that of retreating to Ibwiri, build a fort, send a
party back to Kilonga-Longa's for our boat, store up every load in the
fort not conveyable, leave a garrison in the fort to hold it, and raise corn

STANLEYS THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY. 741

ne hundred
ihem. Had
as they now
r-guard was
a plain. Wo
gs two thou
made on us,

;ongo, situate
vere spent by
;y would not
cattle. Ihey
e they never
2 lake. They
mot know who
ould show us
,ple we learned
, but they had
had they seen
id, except such

civil enough,
Khown the path

rnile from the

light thrown
My couriers

lin Pasha with
[the lake a visit
llonga-Longa's,

1)6 without the
2re was no tree
Lie distance off
cases of car-
[f such fighting
1 which seemed
Id a fort, send a
|ry load in the
, and raise corn

for us; march back again to the Albert Lake, and send the boat d
search for Eniin Pasha. This was tlie plan which, after lengthy discus-
sions with my officers, I resolved upon.

On the 15th we marched to the site of Kavali, on the west side of the
lake. Kavali had years ago been destroyed. At 4 p. M. the Kakongc
natives had followed us and shot several arrows into our bivouac, and
disappeared as quickly as they came. At 6 v. m. we began a night march
and by 10 a. m. of the i6th we had gained the crest of the plateau once
more, Kakongo natives having persisted in following us up the slope of
the plateau. Wo had one man killed and one wounded.

Illness of Ktuiiley.
By January 7th we were in Ibwiri once again, and after a f.;w days'
rest Lieutenant Stairs, with a hundr'^d men, sent to Kilonga-Longa's to
bring the boat and goods up, also Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson.
Out of the thirty-eight sick in charge of the officers, only eleven men
were brought to the fort, the rest had died or deserted. On the return
of Stairs with the boat and goods he was sent to Ugarrowwa's to bring
up the convalescents there. I granted him thirty-nine days' grace. Soon
after his departure I was attacked with ga.stritis and an abscess on the
arm, but after a month's careful nursing by Dr. Parke I recovered, and
forty-seven days having expired, I set out again for the Albert Nyanza,
April 2d, accompanied by Messrs. Jephson and Parke. Captain Nelson,
now recovered, was appointed commandant of Fort Bodo in our absence,
with a garrison of forty-three men and boys.

On April 26th we arrived in Mozamboni's country once again, but
this time, after solicitation, Mozamboni decided to make blood-brother-
hood with me. Though I had fifty rifles less with me on this second
visit, the example of Mozamboni was followed by all the other chiefs
as far as Nyanza, and every difficulty seemed removed. Food was sup-
plied gratis ; cattle, goats, sheep, and fowls were also given in such
abundance that our people lived royally. One daj^'s march from the
Nyanza the natives came from Kavali, and said that a white man named
"Maleja" had given their chief a black packet to give to me, his .ion
Would I follow them ? " Yes, to-morrow," I answered, " and if you •
words are true I will make >ou rich."

hi"'

|KW^^

M^:"'

CHAPTER XXXV.
STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASHA.

Wonderful Tales by Natives — "Ships as Large as Islands, Filled with Men"— Not*
from Emin Pasha — Strip of American Oil-clotii — Boat Dispatched to Nyanza-'
Hospitable Reception by the Egypliau Garrison— Joyful Meeting— Emin ana
Stanley Together — Only Sixteen Men T^eft Out of Fifty six— Favorable Accounts
of the Fort— Getting Rid of Encumbrances— Moving Foward — Securing Am
pie Supplies— Immense Flotilla of Canoes— Hair-breadth Escaf>es and Tragi,'
Scenes— Reorganizing the Expedition— St nley Reported Dead — Immense Loss
of Men — Good Accounts of the Survivors — Vast Forests— Sublime Scenery-
High Table-lands— Like Nyanza— Conversation with Emin Pasha— What Shall
be Done?— Planning to Remove — Disposing of Women and Children— Last
Words— Stanley Sends a Message to the Troops — Emin Pasha to Visit the Fort-
Stanley Makes a Short Cut— Success Thus Far of the Expedition.

'FIE natives were with us that night, telling 'wonderful stories about
" big ships as large as islands filled with men," which left no doubt
in our mind that this white man was Emin Pasha. The next day's
morch brought us to the chief Kavali, and after a while he handed
me a note from Emin Pasha, covered with a strip of black American oil-
cloth. The note was to the effect " that as there had been a native rumor to
the effect that a white man had been seen at the south end of the lake, ho
had gone in his steamer to make inquiries, but had been unable to obtain
reliable information, as the natives were terribly afraid of Kabba-Rega,
King of Uii)'oro, and connected every stranger with him. However, the
wife of the Nyamsassie chief had told a native ally of his named Mogo
that she had seen us in Mrusuma (Mozamboni's country). He therefore
begged me to remain where I was until he could communicate Vi^ithme."
The note was signed " (Dr.) Emin," and dated March 26th.

The nex day, April 23d, Mr. Jephson was dispatched with a strong force
of men to take the boat to the Nyanza. On the 26th the boat's crew
; sighted Mswa station, the southernmost belonging to Emin Pasha, and
Mr. Jc{)hson was there hospitably received by the Egyptian gariisoti
The boat's crew say that they were embraced one by one, and that tiiey
never had such attention shown to them as by these men, who hailed
them as brothers.

On the 29th of April we once again reached the bivouac ground occu-
pied by us on the i6th of December, and at 5 p. m. of that day I saw the
(7-12)

vith Men "— NoU
bed to Nyanza-'
eting — Emin and
ivorable Accounts
d— Securing Am
:apes and TragW
id— Immense Loss
ublime Scenery—
•asha-What Shall
id Children— Last
to Visit the Fort-
ion.

ful stories about
lich left no doubt
The next day's
while he handed
;k American oil-
la native rumor to
id of the lake, ho
unable to obtain
of Kabba-Rega,
However, thf
is named Mogo
■). He therefore
nicate v^ith me."

.th.

ith a strong force
the boat's crew
Imin Pasha, and
yptian ganisoii
ie, and that they
[men, who hailed

jac ground occu-
Lt day 1 saw the

STANLEY FLNDS EMIN PASHA.

74;r

Khedive steamer about seven miles away steaming up toward us. Soon ,
after 7 p. m. Emin Pasha and Signor Cassati and Mr. Jephson arrived at
our camp, where they w^ere heartily welcomed by all of us. Z;

The next day we moved to a better camping-place, about three miles
above Nyamsassie, and at this spot Emin Pasha also made his camp ; we
Acre together until the 25th of May. On that day I left him, leaving
Mr. Jephson, three Soudanese, and two Zanzibaris in his care, and in
return he caused to accompany me three of his irregulars and one hun-
dred and two Mahdi natives as porters.

♦*Ouly Sixteen Men Out of Fit'ty-six.'*

Fourteen days later I was at Fort Bodo. At the fort were Captain
Nelson and Lieutenant Stairs. The latter had returned from Ugarrovvwa's
twenty-two days after I had set out for the lake, April 2d, bringing with
him, alas ! only sixteen men out of fifty-six. All the rest were dead.
My twenty couriers whom I had sent with letters to Major Barttelot had
safely left Ugarrowwa's for Yambuya on March 16th.

Fort Bodo was in a flourishing state. Nearly ten acres were under
cultivation. One crop of Indian corn had been harvested, and was in
the granaries; they had just commenced planting again.

On the l6th of June I left Fort Bodo with a hundred and eleven Zan-
zibaris and a hundred and one of Emin Pasha's people. Lieutenant
Stairs had been appointed commandant of the fort, Nelson second in
command, and Surgeon Parke medical officer. Th*^ garrison consisted
of fifty-nine rifles. I had thus deprived myself of all my officers in order
that I should not be encumbered with baggage and provisions and medi-
cines, which would have to be taken if accompanied by Europeans, and
every carrier was necessary for the vast stores left with Major Barttelot.
On the 24th of June we reached Kilonga-Longa's, and July 19th Ugar-
rowwa's. The latter station was deserted. Ugarrowwa, having gathered
as much ivoiy as he could obtain from that district, had proceeded down
river about three months before. On Laving Fort Bodo I had loaded
every carrier with about sixty pounds of corn, so that we had been able
to pass through the wilderness unscathed.

Passing on down the river as fast as we could go, daily expecting tc
meet the couriers who had been stimulated to exert themselves for a
reward of ten pounds per head, or the Major himself leading an army ol
carriers, we iiidulged ourselves in these pleasing anticipations as we
neared the goal.

On the loth of August we overtook Ugarrowwa with an immense flo-
tilla of fifty-seven canoes, and to our wonder our couriers now reduced

■••■S

*ffr

I I

1 ;■

Ifi'

i'ili-'

I- 1

.: »'■! H

Jr-f vi!l

744

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

';'H

r,'

Bit-''

si'

to seventeen. They related an awful storj' of hair-breadth escapes and
tragic scenes. Three of their number had been slain, two were still
feeble from their wounds, all except five bore on their bodies the scars
of arrow wounds.

A week later, on August 17th, we met the rear column of the expedi-
tion at a place called Bunalya, or, as the Arabs have corrupted it
Unarya. There was a white man at the gate of the stockade whom I at
first though was Mr. Jamieson, but a nearer' view revealed the features
of Mr. Bonn)', v^lio left the medical service of the army to accoirpany
us.

** Well, my clear Bonny, where is the Major ?"

" He is dead, sir; shot by the Manyuema about a month ago."

" Good God ! And Mr. Jamieson ?'

" He has gone to Stanley Falls to try and get some more men from
Tipo-tipo."

•• And Mr. Troup."

" Mr. Troup has gone home, sir, invalided."

" Hem ! well, where is Ward ?"

" Mr. Ward is at Bangala, sir."

" Heavens alive ! then you are the only one here ?"

" Yes, sir."

I found the rear column a terrible wreck. Out of two hundred and
fifty-seven men 'i^j-e were only seventy-one remaining. Out of seventy-
one only fifty-f^ o c i mustering them, seemed fit for service, and these
mostly were sea. ow.s. The advance had performed the march from
Yambuya to Bunalya in sixteen days, despite native opposition. The
rear column performed the same distance in forty-three days. Accord-
ing to Mr. Bonny, during the thirteen months and twenty days that had
elapsed since I had left Yambuya, the record is only one of disaster,
desertion, and death. I have not the heart to go into the details, many
of which are incredible, and, indeed, I have not the time, for, excepting
Mr. Bonny, I have no one to assist me in re-organizing the expedition.

Stanley Reported Dead.

There are still far more loads than I can carry, at the same time articlesi
needful are missing. For instance, I left Yambuya with only a short
campaigning kit, leaving my reserve of clothing and personal effects in
charge of the officers. In December some deserters from the advance
column reached Yambuya to spread the report that I was dead. They
had no papers with them, but the officers seemed to accept the report of
these deserters as a fact, and in January Mr. Ward, at an officers' mess

jscapcs and
) were still
:s the scars

the expedi-
orruptcd it
e whom I at
the features
» accoirpany.

ago.

re men from

hundred and
^ut of seventy-
ice, and these
march from
osition. The
ys. Accord-
lays that had
e of disaster,
details, many
for, excepting
expedition.

lie time articles)
only a short
3nal effects in
the advance
dead. They
the report ol
officers' mess

7i
O

; i •

^ '

;l.> X

(74.-)^

746

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ifi

i'!. M

meeting, proposed that my instructions should be canceled. The only
one who appears to have dissented was Mr. Bonny. Accordingly, niy
personal kit, medicines, soap, candles, and piovisions were sent down the
Congo as " superfluities!" Thus, after making this immense personal
sacrifice to relieve them and cheer them up, I find myself naked and
deprived of even the necessaries of life in Africa. But, strange to sav,
they have kept two hats and four pairs of boots, a flannel jacket, and 1
propose to go back to Emin Pasha and across Africa with this truly
African kit. Livingstone, poor fellow, was all in patches when I met
him, but it will be the reliever himself who will be in- patches this time.
Fortunately, not one of my officers w ill enxy me, for their kits are in-
tact — it was only myself that was dead.

I pray you to say that we were only eighty-two days from the Albert
Lake to Banal)-a, and sixty-one from Fort Bodo, The distance is not
very great — it is the people who fail one. Going to Nyanza we felt as
though we had the tedious task of dragging them ; on returning each
man knew the road, and did not need any stimulus. Between the Nyanza
and here we only lost three men — one of which was by desertion. I
brought a hundred and thirty-one Zanzibaris here, and left fifty-nine at
Fort Bodo, total one hundred and ninety men out of three hundred and
eighty-nine ; loss, fifty per cent.

Iniincnse Loss of Men.

At Yambuya I left two hundred and fifiy-seven men, there are only
seventy-one left, ten of w horn will never leave this camp — loss over two
hundred and seventy per cent. This proves that, though the sufferings
of the advance were unprecedented, the mortality was not so great as in
camp at Yambuya. The survivors of the march are all robust, while the
survivors of the rear colunm are thin and most unhealthy-looking.

I have thus rapidly sketched out our movements since June 28th, 1887.
I wish I had the leisure to furnish more details, but I cannot find the time.
I write this amid the hurry and bustle of departure, and amid constant
interruptions. You will, however, have gathered from this letter an idea
of the nature of the country traversed by us. We were a hundred anil
sixty days in the forest — one continuous, unbroken, compact forest.
The grass-land was traversed by us in eight days. The limits of the
forest along the edge of the grass-land are well marked. We saw it
extending northeasterly, with its curves and bays and capes just like a
sea-shore! Southwesterly it preserved the same character. North and
south the forest area extends from Nyangwe to the southern borders of
the Monbuttu ; east and west it embraces all from the Congo, at the

"•rcat as in

STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASHA.

747

mouth of the Aruwinii, to about east longitude 2g°-40°. How far west
beyond the Congo the forest reaches I do not know. The superfic'al
extent of the tract thus described — totally covered by forest — is tvvo
hundred and forty-six thousand square miles. North of the Congo,
between Upoto and the Aruwimi, the forest embraces another twenty
thousand square miles.

^etwcen Yambuya and the Nxanza we came across five distinct lan-
guages. The last is that which is spoken by the Wanyoro, Wan-

SKIRMISH DRILL OF KAFFIR WARRIORS.

yankcri.Wanya, Ruanda, Wahha, and people of Karangvve and Ukerewe.
The land slopes gently from the crest of the plateau above the Nyanza
down to the Congo River from an altitude of five thousand five hundred
feet to one thousand four hundred feet above the sea. North and south
of our track through the grass-land the face of the land was much broken
jby groups of cones or isolated mounts or ridges. North we saw no land
higher than about six thousand feet above the sea, but bearing two hun-
dred and fifteen degrees magnetic, at the distance of about fifty miles
from our camp on the Nyanza. we saw a towering mountain, its summit

n i

I, I

i:i:

\.<\

J''

748

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

covered with snow, and probably seventeen or eighteen thousand feci
above the sea. It is called Ruevenzori.and will probably prove a rival
to Kilimanjaro. I am not sure that it may not prove to be the Gordon
Bennett Mountain in Gambaragara, but there are two reasons for doubt-
ing it to be the same — first, it is a little too far west for the position of
the latter as given by me in 1876; and, secondly, we saw no snow on
the Gordon Bennett. I might mention a third, which is that the latttrWs
a perfect cone apparently, while the Ruevenzori is an oblong mount,
nearly level on the summit, with two ridges extending northeast and
southwest.

I have met only three natives who have seen the lake toward the
south. They agree that it is large, but not so large as the Albert
Nyanza.

The Aruwimi becomes known as the Suhali about one hundred miles

above Yambuya; as it nears the Nepoko it is called the Nevoa; beyond

its confluence with the Nepoko it is known as the No-Welle; three

hundred miles from the Congo it is called the Itiri, which is soon

changed into the Ituri, which name it retains to its source. Ten

minutes* march from the Ituri waters we saw the Nyanza, like a mirror

in its immense gulf.

What Slinll be l>oiie?

Before closing my letter let me touch more at large on the subject
which brought me to this land — viz., Emin Pasha.

The Pasha has two battalions of regulars under him — the first, con-
sisting of about seven hundred and fifty rifles, occupies Duffle, Honyu,
Lahore, Muggi, Kirri, Bedden, Rejaf ; the second battalion, consisting
of six hundred and forty men, guard the stations of Wadelai, Fatiko,
Mahagi, and Mswa, a line of communication along the Nyanza and Nile
about one hundred and eighty miles in length. In the interior west of
the Nile he retains three or four small stations — fourteen in all. Besides
these two battallions he has quite a respectable force of irregulars, sailors,
artisans, clerks, servants. "Altogether," he said, "if I consent to go
away from here we shall have about eight thousand people with us."

"Were I in your place I would not hesitate one moment or be a|
second in doubt what to do."

" What you say is quite true, but we have such a large number of
women and children, probably ten thousand people altogether. How
can they ail be brought out of here ? We shall want a great number of
carriers."

" Carriers I carriers for what," I asked.

:)ng mount,

toward the
the Albert

STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASHA.

743

" For the women and children. You .surely would not leave them,
and they cannot travel ? "

"The women must walk. It will do them more good than harm.
A.s for the little children, load them on the donkeys. I hear you have

EXTRAORDINARY FOREST GROWTHS IN AFRICA.

about two hundred of them. Your people will not travel very far the
first month, but litttle by little they will get accustomed to it. Our Zan-
zibar women crossed Africa on my second expedition. Why cannot
your black women do the same ? Have no fear of them ; they will do
better than the men."

750

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

«J

" They would require a vast amount of provision for the road."

" True, but you have some thousands of cattle, I believe. Those will
furnish beef The country through which we pass must furnish grain
and vegetable food."

" Well, well, we will defer further talk till to-morrow."

Planning' to Remove.

May 1st, 1888. — Halt in camp at Nsabe. The Pasha came ashore
from the steamer " Khedive " obout i P. m., and in a short time we com-
menced our conversation again. Many of the arguments used above
were repeated, and he said :

" What you told me yesterday has led me to think it is best we should
retire from here. The Egyptians are very willing to leave. There are of
these about one hundred men, besides their women and children. Of these
there is no doubt, and even if I stayed here I should be glad to be rid of
them, because they undermine my authority and nullify all my endeavors
for retreat. When I informed them that Khartoum had fallen and Gor-
don Pasha was slain, they always told the Nubiaiis that it was a concoc-
ted story, that some day we should see the steamers ascend the river for
their relief But of the regulars v.'ho compose the first and second bat-
talions I am extremely doubtful ; they have led such a free and happy
life here that they would demur at leaving a country where they have
enjoyed luxuries they cannot command in Egypt.

" The soldiers are married, and several of them have harems. Many of
the irregulars would also retire and follow me. Now, supposing tne reg-
ulars refuse to leave, you can imagine that my position would be a diffi-
cult one. Would I be right in leaving them to their fate ? Would it not
be consigning them all to ruin ? I should have to leave them their arms
and ammunition, and on returning all discipline would be at an end.
Disputes would arise, and factions would be formed. The more ambi-
tious would aspire to be chiefs by force, and from these rivalries would
spring hate and mutual slaughter until there would be none of them
left."

" Supposing you resolve to stay, what of the Egyptians ? " I asked.

" Oh ! these I shall have to ask you to be good enough to ^take
with you."

*' Now, will you, Pasha, do me the favor to ask Captain Casati if we are
to have the pleasure of his company to the sea, for we have been
instructed to assist him also should we meet? " •

Captain Casati answered through Emin Pasha :

" What the Governor Emin decides upon shall be the rule of conduct

STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASIIA.

75)

for me also. If the Governor stays, I stay. If the Governor goes, I

" Well, I see. Pasha, that in the event of your staying your responsi-
bilitie.': will be ^reat."

A laugh. The sentence was translated to Casati, and the gallant Cap-
tain replied :

**Oh!'I beg pardon, but I absolve the Pasha from all responsibility
connected with me, because I am governed by my own choice entirely."

Thus day after day I recorded faithfully the interviews I had with
Emin Pasha ; but these extracts reveal as much as is necessary for you
to understand the position. I left Mr. Jcphson thirteen of my Soudanese,
and sent a message to be read to the troops, as the Pasha requested.
Everything elsv. is left until I return with the united expedition to the
Nyanza.

Within two months the Pasha proposed to visit Fort Bodo, taking Mr.
Jephson with him. At Fort Bodo I have left instructions to the officers
to destroy the fort and accompany the Pasha to the Nyanza. I hope to
meet them all again on the Nyanza, as I intend making a shortcut to the
Nyanza along a new road.

« ' 1 1 i

il: k

'i:'f

CHAPTER XXXVI.

STANLEY IN THE BOUNDLESS FOREST.'

The Route Taken by Stanley— A March Beset by Fatal Perils— Death Thins the
Ranks — Bushes and Creepers— Most Extensive Forest Region in Africa— One
Hundred and Si.Kty Days in the Dense Woods — Loyal Blacks— Insects and
Monkeys — Dwarfs and Poisoned Arrows — Gloom by Day and Frightful Darkness
by Night— Sources of Moisture— Wild and Savage Aborigines — Short-lived
Vision of Beauty — Light at Last — The Expedition in Raptures at the Sight ol
Green Fields— Scene ©n a Derby Day— Wild With Delight— A Leprous Out
cast — " Beauty and the Beast "—News of a Powerful Tribe — Frantic Multitude-^
Fowls Plucked and Roasted — Skeletons Getting Fat — Back and Forth on the
Banks of the Aruwimi— Emin Pasha— "See, Sir, What a Big Mountain "—Lake
Albert Nyanza — Important Discoveries.

TANLEY'S narrative in the preceding chapters shows that he
entered the Dark Continent from the mouth of the Congo on the
west coast, sailed up that river and finally entered its tributary,
the Aruwimi. There he established a station and proceeded over-
land with the object of reaching Wadelai, where Emin Pasha was sup-
posed to be located. A reference to the map of Central Africa, which
the reader has already had an opportunity of scanning, will show the
route that he took after leaving the river Aruwimi. It was in this part
of the journey especially that the greatest obstacles and dangers were
encountered. From the following narrative, related with all of Mr.
Stanley's masterly power, it seems surprising that any persons con-
nected with the expedition escaped with their lives. The bold ex-
plorers were beset by every kind of difficulty and peril. Death thinned
the ranks of the party, starvation threatened them, and it was only
with the greatest perseverance and courage, combined with painful
privations, that the final object was attained. Mr. Stanley's account is as
follows :

Until we penetrated and marched through it, this region was entirely
unexplored and untrodden by either white or Arab. The difficulties
consisted of creepers ranging from one-eighth inch to fifteen inches in
diameter, swinging across the path in bowlines or loops, sometimes
massed and twisted together ; also of a low dense bush, occupying the
sites of old clearings, which had to be carved through before a passage
was possible. Where years had elaps.d since the dearings had been

(752)

STANLEY IN THE BOUNDLESS FOREST.

763

lows that he

abandoned, we found a youn^ forest and the spaces betwicn the trees
choked with climbing; plants, vegetable creepers and tall plants. This
kind had to be tiinnulh d through before an inch of progress could be
made. The region ttaversed by us is probably the most extcns vc
forest region in all Africa, a region, moreover, resembling in many
respects the tropical forest region of South America.

While in England, considering the best routes open to the Nyanza
^Albert), I thought I was very liberal in allowing myself two weeks'
inarch to cross the forest region lying between the Congo and the grass
land, but you may ima<.nne our feelings when month after month saw u..
marching, tearing, plowing, cutting through that same continuous forest.
It took us one hundred and sixty days before we could say, '" Thank
God, we are out of the darkness at last.'' At one time we were all —
whites and blacks — almost " done up." September, October, and half of
that month of November, 1887, will not be forgotten by us.

Battliiigr with Death.
October will be specially memorable to us for the sufferings we
endured. Our officers are heartily sick of the forest, but the loyal
blacks, a band of one hundred and thirty, followed me once again into
the wild, trackless forest, with its hundreds of inconveniences, to assist
their comrades of the rear column. Try and imagine some of the.se
inconveniences. Take a thick Scottish copse, dripping with rain ;
imagine this copse to be a mere undergrowth, nourished under the
impenetrable shades of ancient trees, ranging from one hundrid to one
hundred and eighty feet high ; briers and thorns abundant; lazy creeks,
meandering through the depths of the jungle, and sometimes a deep
;ffl i^nt of a great river. Imagine this forest and jungle in all stages of
decay and growth — old trees falling, leaning perilously over, fallen pros-
trate ; ants and insects of all kinds, sizes, and colors murmuring around;
monkeys and chimpanzees above, queer noises of birds and animals,
crashes in the jungle as troops of elephants rush away; dwarfs wtth
poisoned arrows securely hidden behind some buttress or in some dark
recess ; strong brown-bodied aborigines with terribly sharp spears, stand-
ing ppised, still as dead stumps; rain pattering down on you every other
day in the year; an impure atmosphere, with its dread consequences,
lever and dysentery ; gloom throughout the day, and darkness almost
palpable throughout the night; and then, if you will imagine such a
forest extending the entire distance from Plymouth to Peterhead, you
will have a fair idea of some of the inconveniences endured by us from
June ,?8th to December 5th, 1887, and from June ist, 1888, to the present

h »•

I ■; :i:

(:t

'; .\-r 111

764

WONDERS OI THE TROPICS.

H-, •

•r?;,.

•m-ih^

m w

date, to continue again from the present date till abput December loth,
1888, when I hope to say a last ^arewell to the Congo Forest.

A Desolate WildcrneHH.

Now that we have gone th'-ough and through this forest region, I
only feel a surprise that I did not give a greater latitude to my ideas
respecting its extent ; for had we thought of it, it is only what might
have been deduced from our knowledge of the great sources of moisture
necessary to supply the forest with tlie requisite sap and vitality. Think
of the large e.xtcnt of the South Atlantic Ocean, whose vapors are blown
during nine months of the year in this direction. Think of the broad
Congo, varying from one to sixteen miles wide, which has a stretch of
one thousand four hundred miles, supplying another immeasurable quan-
tity of moisture, to be distilled into rain, and mist, and dew, over this
insatiable forest ; and then another six hundred miles of the Aruwinii 01
Ituri itself, and then you will cease to wonder that there are about one
hundred and fifty days of rain every year in this region, and that the
Congo Forest covers such a wide area.

Until we set foot on the grass land, something like fifty miles west of
the Albert Nyanza, we saw nothing that looked like a smile, or a kind
thought, or a moral sensation. The aborigines are wild, utterly sava^^e,
and incorrigibly vindictive. The dwarfs — called VVambutti — are worse
.still, far worse. Animal life is likewise so wild and shy that no sport is
to be enjoyed. The gloom of the forest is perpetual. The face of the
river, reflecting its black walls of vegetation, is dark and sombre. The
sky one-half of the time every day resembles a winter sky in England;
the face of Nature and life is fixed and joyless. If the sun charges
through the black clouds enveloping it and a kindly wind brushes the
masses of vapor below the horizon, and the bright light reveals our sur-
roundings, it is only to tantalize us with a short-lived vision of brilliancy
and beauty of verdure.

Light at Last !

Emerging from the forest, finally, we all became enraptured. Like a
captive unfettered and set free, we rejoiced at sight of the blue cope of
heaven, and freely bathed in the warm sunshine, and aches and gloomy
thoughts and unwholesome ideas were banished. You have heard how
the London citizen, after months of devotion to business in the gaseous
atmosphere in that great city, falls into raptures at sight of the green
fields and hedges, meadows and trees, and how his emotions, crowding
on his dazed senses, are indescribable. Indeed, I have seen a Derby day
once, and I fancied then that I only saw madmen, for great, bearded,

ember loth,
t.

est region, 1
to my iilcas

what might
i of moisture
ality. Think
3rs are blown
of the broad

a stretch of
surable quan-
Jcw, over this
le Aruwimi or
ire about one
, and that the

r miles west of
iiile, or a kind
utterly sava'je,
itti — are worse
lat no sport is
le face of the
sombre. The
y in England;
c sun charges
d brushes the
eveals our sur-
n of brilliancy

>
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3»

Jill !'■ fes,! 41 !|

'■ 1- : -I

til!

■lii'Jiili'i* !W
iii''il'"'S:;J..li::':j'::ii.'^-.i!i:ifi;i:li(jiia

(75.1)

^'i'lil

756

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

P~<^

hoary-headed fellows, though well dressed enough, behaved in a most

idiotic fashion, amazing me quite. Well, on this 5th of December we

became suddenly smitten with madness in the same manner. Had you

seen us you would have thought we had lost our senses, or that

" Legion " had entered and taken possession of us. We raced with our

loads over a wide, unfenced field (like^n English park for the softness of

its grass), and herds of buffalo, eland, roan antelope, stood on either hand

with pointed cars and wide eyes, wondering at the sudden wave of human

beings, yelling with joy, as they issued out of the dark depths of the

forest.

A Leprous Outcast.

On the confines of this forest, near a village which was rich in sugar
cane, ripe bananas, tobacco, Indian corn, and other productions of abo-
riginal husbandry, we came across an ancient woman lying asleep. I
believe she was a leper and an outcast, but she was undoubtedly ugly,
vicious, and old; and, being old, she vyas obstinate. I practisedall kinds
of seductive arts to get her to do something besides crossly mumbling,
but of no avail. Curiosity having drawn toward us about a hundred of
our people, she fastened fixed eyes on one young fellow (smooth-faced
and good-looking), and smiled. I caused him to sit near her, and she
became voluble enough — beauty and youth had tamed the " beast." From
her talk we learned that there was a powerful tribe, called the Banzaiiza,
with a great king, to the northeast of our camp, of whom we might be
well afraid, as the people were as numerous as grass. Had we learned
this ten days earlier, I might have become anxious for the result, but it
now only drew a contemptuous smile from the people, for each one, since
he had seen the grass land and evidences of meat, had been transformed
into a hero.

We poured out on the plain a frantic multitude, but after an hour or
two we became an orderly column. Into the emptied villages of the open
country we proceeded, to regale ourselves on melon, rich-flavored bananas
and plantains, and great pots full of wine. The fowls, unaware of the
presence of a hungry mob, were knocked down, plucked, roasted, or
boiled ; the goats, meditatively browsing, or chewing the cud, were sud-
denly seized and decapitated, and the grateful aroma of roast meat grati-
fied our senses. An abundance, a prodigal abundance, of good things,
had awaited our eruption into the grass land. Every village was well
stocked with provisions, and even luxuries long denied to us. Under
such fare the men became most robust, diseases healed as if by magic,
the weak became strong, and there was not a goee-goee or chicken-heart

STANLEY IN THE BOUNDLESS FOREST.

7r)7

left. Only the Babusesse, near the main Ituri, were tempted to resist the

invasion.

A Great River.

•

The main Ituri, at the distance of six hundred and eighty miles from

its mouth, is one hundred and twenty-five yards wide, nine feet deep, and

has a current of three knots. It appears to run parallel with the Nyanza.

Near that group of cones and hills affectionately named Mount Schwein-

furth, Mount Junker, and Mount Speke, I would place its highest source.

Draw three or four respectable streams draining into it from the crest of

the plateau overlooking the Albert Nyanza, and two or three respectable

streams flowing into it from northwesterly, let the main stream flow

southwest to near north latitude i°,give it a bow-like form north latitude

1° to north latitude i° 50', then let it flow with curves and bends down

to north latitude 1° 17' near Yambunya, and you have a sketch of the

course of the Aruwimi, or Ituri, from the highest source down to its

mouth, and the length of this Congo tributary will be eight hundred

miles. We have traveled on it and along its banks for six hundred and

eighty miles ; on our first march to the Nyanza for one hundred and

fifty-six miles along its banks or near its vicinity ; we returned to obtain

our boat from Kilonga-Longa's ; then we conveyed the boat to the

Nyanza for as many miles again ; for four hundred and eighty miles we

traversed its flanks or voyaged on its waters to hunt up the rear column

of the expedition ; for as many miles we must retrace our steps to the

Albert Nyanza for the third time. You will, therefore, agree with me

that we have sufficient knowledge of this river for all practical purposes.

On the 25th of May, 1888, Emin Pasha's Soudanese were drawn up in

line to salute the advancing column as it marched in file toward the Ituri

River from the Nyanza. Half an hour after we parted. I was musing

as I walked of the Pasha and his steamer when my gun-bearer cried out,

" See, sir, what a big mountain ; it is covered with salt !" I gazed in

the direction he pointed out, and there sure enough —

" Some blue peaks in the distance rose.
And white against the cold white sky
Shone out the crowning snows : "

or, rather, to be sure, a blue mountain of prodigious height and mass.
This, then, said I, must be the Ruwenzori, which the natives said had
something white, like the metal of my lamp, on the top.

White-capped Mountain.
I should estimate its distance to be quite fifty miles from where we
stood. Whether it is Mount Gordon Bennett or not I am uncertain.

" If

,i ■.. !

■■H '

758

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ift.n

Against the supposition is the fact that I saw no snow on the latter in
1876, that its siiape is vastly different, and that Ruwenzori is a little too
far west for the position I gave of Gordon Bennett, and I doubt that
Gordon Bennett Mount, if its latitude is correct, could be seen from a
distance of eighty geographical miles in an atmosphere not very remark-
able for its clearness. I should say that the snow line seemed to be
about one thousand feet from the summit. There is plenty of room for
both Ruwenzori and Gordon Bennett in the intervening space between
Beatrice Gulf and the Albert Nyanza.

At the south and southwest of the Albert N)anza there is no mystery.
A century (or perhaps more) ago, the lake must have been some twelve
or fifteen miles longer, and considerably broader opposite Mbakovia than
it is now. With the wearing away of reefs obstructing the Nile below
Wadelai, the lake has rapidly receded, and is still doing so to the aston-
nient of the Pasha (?2min), who first saw Lake Albert seven or eight
years. For, he says, " islands that were near the west shore have now
become headlands occupied by our stations and native villages."

Across the lake from Nyamsassie to Mbakovia, its color indicates
great shallowness, being brown and muddy like that of a river flowing
through alluvial soil. Some of this must, of course, be due to the Sem-
liki River, but while on board the Khedive steamer from Nyamsassie to
Nsabi, I noticed that the pole of the sounding-man at the bow constantly
touched from a mile to a mile and a half from shore. Near the south
end the steamer has to anchor about five miles from shore.

Important Discoveries.

At the southwest end, the plain rises from the edge of the lake one
foot in one hundred and eighty feet. The plain of the south end rises at
the same rate for about ten miles. A slight change then takes place as
the eastern and western walls of the table-land draw nearer, and dedris
from their slopes, washed by rains and swept by strong winds, humus ol
grass and thorn forest, have added to its height above the lake.
Natives say that south of this the plain slopes steeply to the level of the
uplands. A shoulder of the western wall prevented us from verifying
this, and still beyond must be left until we take our journey homeward.

I look upon this country lying between the Albert Nyanza and the
lake discovered by me in 1876 as promising curious revelations. Up to
this moment I am not certain to which river the last lake belongs —
whether to the Nile or the Congo. I believe to the latter, but what I am
sure of is that it has no connection with the Albert Nyanza.

•1 .(r

.f :'
.1 • '

CHAPTER XXXVII.
HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

The Explorer Again Lost— Long and Painful Suspense— Welcome Despatch from
Zanzibar— Wonderful March— Conspicuous Bravery — Stanley's Thrilhng Story —
Murder of Major Barttelot — Mission Church — "Outskirts of Blessed Civiliza
tion " — Vivid Word-painting — Stanley's Letter. to a Friend — Movements of Jeph-
son— Stanley's History of His Journey— Letter to the Chairman of the Emin Re-
lief Fund- Rear Column in a Deplorable State — Land March Begun— Gathering
Stores for the March — Small pox — Terrible Mortality — Bridging a River — Cralty
and Hostile Dwarfs — TracV s of Elephants — Fighting Starvation — Stanley Returns
to Find the Missing Men — Making Friends with the Natives— Startling Letter
from Jephson— Emin a Prisoner — The Insurgents Reach Lado— Emin's Followers.
Like Rats in a Trap -Stanley's Arrival Anxiously Awaited— Emin Clings to His.
Province— Stanley's Letter to Jephson— Absurd Indecision— Letter from Emin —
Desperate Situation— Emin's Noble Traits — Stanley's Letter to Marston — Recital •■
of Thrilling Events.

aFTER Mr. Stanley sent us the account of the first part of his.
journey contained in the preceding chapters, he was again lost

1 to the worl i. There was silence for many months ; and there

was also anxious speculation concerning his fate, and many fears^
that he and all others in his brave band had perished in the murky wilds,
of the Congo. The long and painfnl suspense was finally broken.

On October 24th, 1889, a cable dispatch was received from Captain-
Wissmann, Imperial Commissioner of Germany to East Africa, stating
that reliable news had been received concerning Emin Pasha and Henry
M. Stanley, Signer Casati and six Englishmen. They were all expected*
to arrive at Mpwapwa at the latter part of November.

This dispatch was supplemented soon after by the following :

London, Nov. 4. — Mr. Mackinnon, the head of the Emin Relief Com-
mittee, has received a dispatch from Henry M. Stanley.

The explorer says : " I reached the Albert Nyanza from Banalaya, for-
the third time, in 140 days, and found that Emin and Jephson had both
been prisoners since the i8th of August, 1888, being the day after I made
the discovery that Barttelot's caravan had been wrecked.

" The troops in the Equatorial Province had revolted and shaken off
all allegiance. Shortly after the Mahdists invaded the province in full-
force,

" After the first battle in May the stations yielded and a panic strucks

(759)

»r

» w

7u0

WOKDERS OF THE TROPICS.

the natives, who joined the invaders and assisted in the work of destruc-
tion.

" The invaders subsequently sufifered reverses, and dispatched a steamer
to Khartoum for reinforcements.

" I found a letter waiting for me near the Albert Nyanza exposing the
dangerous position of the survivors and urging the immediate necessity
of my arrival before the end of December, otherwise it would be too
late.

" I arrived there on the i8th of January for the third time. From the
14th of February to the 8th of May I waited for the fugitives, and then
left the Albert Nyanza homeward bound."

This piece of news, assuring the world of Stanley's safety, was wel-
comed with acclamations, and further intelligence from the heroic
explorer was eagerly awaited. It soon came, and before we present to
the reader the graphic letters from Stanley and Emin, giving a full
account of the expedition, we give an outline of the wonderful march.
This march was beset by all manner of dangers, and only the most
daring bravery and perseverance — a bravery that did not count life dear
— could ever have brought the gallant band of travelers to the light of
civilization.

The Thrillingr Story.

Mr. Stanley and his companions have now, to use his own words,
" reached the outskirts of blessed civilization," and the complete narrative
of the marvellous journey shows that in perilc overcome, in labors and
privations endured, in adventures with' savage foes, and in brilliant discov-
eries, this journey stands unparalleled and alone. Mr. Stanley writes to
his friend, Mr. Marston, and to the Emin Pasha Relief Committee; Emin
writes to his old friend Dr. Schweinfurtli. Mr. Stanley's letters are of the
greatest interest. Emin Pasha's e}-esight will not allow him to write
much, and there is a pathetic allusion to it in the exclamation in which
he abruptly concludes. Mr. Stanley writes with his accustomed vivacity
and in his accustomed good spirits.

Stanley's letters and Emin's take up the story of the march and rescue
from the point at which it was left in the letters published earlier in 18^9,
and contained in the foregoing chapters. Stanley marched from Yam
buya on the Aruwimi to his first meeting with Emin at the Albert Nyanza.
After a fortnight's rest, he returned from the Albert Nyanza to his start-
ing-point, to collect his rear-guard and stores, only to find that Major
Barttelot had been murdered in his absence, and that the station was
little better than a ruin. His letters published in April, 1889, were

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

701

jf destruc-

J a steamer

cposing the
e necessity
Duld be too

From the
:s, and then

ty, was wel-
the heroic
2 present to
iving a full
erful march,
ily the most
unt life dear
I the light of

own words,
ete narrative
in labors and
illiant discov-
ey writes to
nittee; Em in
ers are of the
lim to write
ion in which
,med vivacity

Ih and rescue
irlierini8?9,
from Yam-
[bert Nyanza.
to his start-
that Major
station was
, 1889, were

written un'^er the influence of this sore discouragement, and when he
was setting forward again to effect his junction with Emin for the last
time. During his absence, disaster had overtaken Emin, as it previously
overtook Major Barttelot, and Stanley arrived at the very moment to
save the German explorer from utter ruin. His arrival on this occasion
at the Albert Nyanza marks, as he reminds us, his third journey across a
terrible region — a region of well-nigh impenetrable forest, peopled with
the dwarfs and cannibals previously described. He made one journey to
the Albert to discover Emin; a second journey back to Yambuya ; a
third, and last one, forward to the Albert once more, to save Emin's life.
His present letters, after recapitulating some of the particulars
of the earlier ones, take up the story of tiie march, from th^
period of the second junction with Emin. One is writen from the Vic-
toria Nyanza on the 3d September, 1889. The travellers were then well
advanced on their journey towards the East Coast. They had travelled
many hundreds of miles to the southern shore of the larger lake, and they
had at length seen a mission church, surmounted by a cross, which
.showed them that they had " reached the outskirts of ble.'- j. civiliza-
tion."

Stanley's Vivid Word-painting.

Mr. Stanley is delightfully himself in the letter to Mr. Marston.
He writes of the ages that have gone by since they met, and of
the " daily thickening barrier of silence " that has crept between
them in the meanwhile. A man who is writing from the heart
of Africa is, in a sense, as one who is writing from the dead. It must
seem to him as though he had passed the portals, and had joined those
literary characters who spend their time in inditing " letters from the
other world." How hard to think of the ordered bustle of city life as
common to the same sphere with " vicious, man-eating savages, and
crafty undersized men " of the forest glades. Civilization seen from
that standpoint must seem always unreal, and sometimes positively gro-
tesque.

The writer settles down to his narrative, and soon we hear of his
second meeting with Emin, and of his terrible illness, which combined
with the delays in collecting Emin's scattered force to retard their setting
forth. For twenty-eight days Stanley lay helpless, and at one time he
lay at the point of death. Then, little by little, he gathered strength,
and ordered the march for home. There are touches in this letter which,
even if the handwriting were another's, would be conclusive to Stanley's
authorship. The sterner man of his strange complex personality is to

! .

■^^\

r:M"^1''

':'m

7G2

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

be traced in the quiet saying, " There is a virtue, you know, in striving
unyieldingly." And it is enough to make us doubt whether all the
honor thrust upon liim will efface memories of horrors by which he is
alternatly " hardened " and " unmanned."

Eiuiu's Strangle Indecision.

The letter to the Emin Pasha Relief Committee is nearly a month
earlier in date than the letter to Mr. Marston. It abounds, however, in
the most precious details of the meeting with Emin, Like everything
that Mr. Stanley writes, it is rich in the picturesque. It paints a man as
well as a situation. It shows us how Emin's irresolution, his difficulty in
making up his mind to a yea or a my on the question of quitting liis
post — already remarked by Mr, Stanley after their first meeting — had at
length been conquered by circumstances. When Mr. Stanley after
incredible hardships again neared the Albert, it was only to learn, from
secret letters of Mr. Jephson — himself under surveillance — of the irruption
of the Mahdists, the treachery of Emin's troops, and the captivity of
their leader. Stanley's men had passed through frightful perils on the way
— hostile dwarfs, small-pox, starvation, over-feeding, and death — only for
their leader to receive this cold comfort at last. " I trust you will arrive
before the Mahdists are reinforced, or our case will be desperate," wrote
Mr. Jephson in conclusion. All Stanley, or at any rate all the heroic
Stanley of the African wilds, comes out in the answer. He tells Jephson
to obey him, and to let his orders be to him " as a frontlet between the
eyes," and all will yet end well.

Finally, when Stanley has made all the depositions which this new and
terrible conjuncture seems to demand, a letter reaches his camp to
announce that Emin, with two steamers full of fugitives, is at anchor just
below. It might be a letter of surrender from a certain sadness in its
tone. So indeed it is, and we honor the writer all the more for it. Emin
has surrendered all the bright hopes which have buoyed him up through
all his years of toil, hardship, and danger, and he has given the Soudan
back to barbarism. If he had been less than sad on such an occasion,
he would have been less than the man he is. When Mr. Stanley reviews
all the circumstances, he will surely see that Emin's irresolution was
but a form of his genius for self-sacrifice and his devotion to a great
object. It will be to Emin's eternal honor that he did not leave the
Soudan till he was driven out of it, and that he clung to his charge till
all his strength was gone. It is difficult to know which to admire the
ifnore, the rescued or the rescuer. Two such spirits, when they are
«€en together in one enterprise, stimulate our pride in the entire race.

HORRORS OF STANLEYS MARCH.

763

We trust the foregoing comments will lend an added interest to the
following graphic narrative from Mr. Stanley's own pen. It is addressed
to W. Mackinnon, Esq., of London.

Kafurro, Arab Settlement,

Karagwe, August 5th, 1889.
To the Chairman of the Eniin Pasha Relief Fund.

Sir: — My last report to you was sent off by Salim bin Mohammed in
the early part of September, 1888. Over a yearful of stirring events for
this part of the world have taken place since then, and I will endeavor in
this and other following letters to inform you of what has occurred.

Having gathered such as were left of the rear column, and such Man-
yemas as were willing of their own accord to accompany me, and entirely
reorganized the expedition, we set off on our return to the Nyanza.
You will doubtless remember that Mr. Mounteney Jephson had been left
with Emin Pasha to convey my message to the Egyptian troops, and
that on or about the 26th of July both Emin Pasha and Mr. Jcphson
were to start from the Nyanza, with a sufficient escort and a nu'^iber of
porters to conduct the officers and garrison of Fort Bodo to a nt w sta-
tion that was to be erected near Kavallis, on the south-west side of Lake
Albert, by which I should be relieved of the necessity of making a fourth
trip to Fort Bodo. Promise for promi.se had been made, for on my part
I had solemnly promised that I should hurry towards Yambuya and
hunt up the missing rear column, and be back again on Lake Albert
some time about Christmas.

I have already told you that the rear column was in a deplorable state,
that out of the 102 members remaining I doubted whether fifty would
live to reach the lake, but having collected a large number of canoes, the
goods and sick men were transported in these vessels in such a smooth,
expeditious manner that there were remarkably few casualties in the
remnant of the rear column. But the wild natives having repeatedly
defeated Ugarrowwa's raiders, by this discovered the extent of their own
strength, gave us considerable trouble, and inflicted considerable loss
among our best men, who had always of course to bear the brunt of
fighting and the fatigue of paddling.

However, we had no reason to be 'dissatisfied with the line we had
made, when progress by river became too tedious and difficult, and the
order to cast off the canoes was given. This was four days' journey
above Ugarrowwa's station, or about 300 miles above Banalya.

We decided that as the south bank of the Ituri river was pretty well
known to us, with all its intolerable scarcity and terrors, it would be best

t. '•

•fil

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

to try the north bank, though we should have to traverse for some dayi
the despoiled 1 mds which had been a common centre for Ugarrowwa's
and Kilonga-Longa's band of raiders. We were about i6o miles from
the grassland, which opened a prospect of future feasts of beef, veal, and
mutton, with pleasing variety of vegetables, as well as oil and butter for
cooking. Bright gossip on such subjects by those who had seen the
.Nyanza stimulated the dejected survivors of the rear column.
Dreadful Mortality from Small-pox.

On the 30th of October, having cast off the canoes, the land niaroh
began in earnest, and two days later we discovered a large plantain plan-
tation in charge of the Dwarfs. The people flung themselves on the
plantains to make as large a provision as possible for the dreaded wilder-
ness ahead of us. The most enterprising always secured a fair share,
and twelve hours later would be furnished with a week's provision of
plantain flour; the feeble and indolent revelled for the time being on
abundance of roasted fruit but always neglected providing for the future,
and thus became victims of famine.

After moving from this place ten days passed before we reached
another plantation, during which time we lost more men than we had
lost between Banalya and Ugarrowwa's. The small-pox broke out
among the Manyema and their followers, and the mortality was terrible.
Our Zanzibaris escaped this pest, however, owing to the vaccination they
had undergone on board the Madura.

We were now about four days' march above the confluence of the
Ihuru and Ituri rivers, and within about a mile from the Ishuru. *As
there was no possibility of crossing this violent and large tributary of the
Ituri or Aruwimi we had to follow its right bank until a crossing could
be discovered.

Four days later we stumbled across the principal village of a district
called Andikumu, surrounded by the finest plantation of bananas and
plantains we had yet seen, which all the Manyema's habit of spoliation
and destruction had been unable to destroy. Then our people, after
severe starvation during fourteen days, gorged themselves to such
excess that it contributed greatly to lessen our numbers. Every twen-
tieth individual suffered some complaint which entirely incapacitated him
from duty. The Ihuru river was about four miles south-south-east from
this place, flowing from east-north-east, and about sixty yards broad, and
deep owing to the heavy rains.

From Andikumu, a six days' march northerly brought us to another
flourishing settlement called Indeman, situated about four hours' march

HORRORS OF STANLEYS MARCH.

7<M

from the river we supposed to be the Iliuru. Here I was considerably
nonplussed by the grievous discrepancy between native accounts and
my own observations. The natives called it the Ihuru river, and my .
instruments and chronometer made it very evident that it could not be
:he Ihuru we knew. Finally, after capturing some dwarfs, we discovered
thdt it was the right branch of the Ihuru river, called the Dui river, this
agreeing with my own views. We searched and found a place where we
could build a bridge across. Mr. Bonny and our Zanzibar chief threw
themselves into the work, and in a few hours the Dui river was safely
bridged, and we passed into a district entirely unvisited by the Manyema.

Crafty Dwarfs.

In this new land between right and left members of the Ihuru the
dwarfs called Wambutli were very numerous, and conflicts between our
rear-guard and these crafty little people occurred daily, not without harm
to both parties. Such as we contrived to capture we compelled to
show the path, but invariably for some reason they clung to east and
east-north-east paths, whereas my route required a south-east direction,
because of the northing we had made in seeking to cross the Dui river.
Finally we followed elephant and game tracks on a south-east course,
but on December 9th we were compelled to hunt for forage in the middle
of a vast forest, at a spot indicated by my chart to be not more than two
or three miles from the Ituri river, which many of our people had seen
while we resided at Fort Bodo.

I sent 150 rifles back to a settlement that was fifteen miles back on the
route we had come, while many Manyema followers also undertook to
follow them.

I quote from my journal part of what I wrote on December 14, the
sixth day of the absence of the foragers : " Six days have transpired
since our foragers left us. For the first four days time ♦)assed rapidly —
I might say almost pleasantly — being occupied in recalculating all my
observations from Ugarrowwa to Lake Albert and down to date, owing
to a few discrepancies here and there which my second and third visit
and duplicate and triplicate observations enabled me to correct. My
occupation then ended, I was left to wonder why the large band of fora-
gers did not return. The fifth day, having distributed all the stock of
flour in camp and killed the only goat we possessed, I was compelled to
open the officers' provision boxes and take a pound pot of butter, with
two cupfuls of my flour, to make an imitation gruel, there being nothing
else save tea, coffee, sugar, and a pot of sago in the boxes. In the
afternoon a boy died, and the condition of a majority of the rest was most

I '^Ni

:l
ij

'■i B

766

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'Mr

disheartening ; some could not stand, but fell down in the effort. These
constant eights acted on my nerves until I began to feel not only moral
but physical sympathy as well, as though weakness was contagious.
Before night a Madi carrier died, the last of our Somalis gave signs of
"ollapse, the few Soudanese with us were scarcely able to move.

Figrhtliijir Starvation.

" The morning of the sixth day dawned ; we made the broth as usual
— a pot of butter, abundance of water, a pot of condensed milk, a cupful
of flour — for 130 people. The chiefs and Mr. Bonny were called to
council. At my proposing a reverse to the foragers of such a nature as
to exclude our men from returning with news of such a ilisastcr, they
were altogether imable to comprehend such a possibility — they believed
it possible that these 150 men were searching for food, without which
they would not return. They were then asked to consider the supposi-
tion that they were five days searching for food, they had lost the road
perhaps, or, having no white leader, they had scattered to loot goats, and
had entirely forgotten their starving friends and brothers in camp ; what
would be the state of the 130 people five days hence? Mr. Bonny offered
to stay with ten men in camp if I provid»id ten days' food for each per-
son while I would set out to search for the missing men.* Food to make
a light cupful of gruel for ten men for ten days was not difficult to pro-
cure, but the sick and feeble remaining must starve unless I met with
good fortune, and accordingly a store of butter-milk, flour, and biscuits
t\as prepared and handed over to the charge of Mr. Bonny."

The afternoon of the seventh day mustered everybody, besides the
garrison of the camp — ten men. Sadi, the Manyema chief, surrendered
fourteen of his men to doom ; Kibbo-bora, another chief, abandoned his
brother; Fundi, another Manyema chief, left one of his wives, and a little
boy. We left twenty-six feeble, sick wretches already past all hope,
unless food could be brought to them within twenty-four hours.

In a cheery tone, though my heart was never heavier, I told the forty-
three hunger-bitten people that I was going back to hunt up the missing
men ; probably I should meet them on the road, but if I did that they
would be driven on the run with food to them. We travelled nine miles
that afternoon, having passed several dead people on the road, and early
on the eighth day of their absence from camp met them marching in an
easy fashion, but when we were met the pace was altered to a quick step,
so that in twenty-six hours from leaving Stawahin camp we were back
with a cheery abundance around, gruel and porridge boiling, bananas
boiling, plantains roasting, and some meat simmering in pots for soup.

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCFI.

767

This has been the nearest approach to absolute starvation in all my
African experience. Twenty-one persons altogether succumbed in this
dreadful camp.

On the 17th of December the Ihuru river was reached in three hoi rs,
and, having a presentiment that the garrison of Fort Bodo were still
where I had left them, the Ihuru was crossed the next day ; and two
days following, steering through the forest regardless of paths, we had
the good fortune to strike the western angle of the Fort Bodo plantations
on the 20th.

My presentiment was true. Lieutenant Stairs and his garrison were
still in Fort Bodo, fifty-one souls out of fifty-nine, and never a word had
been heard of Kmin Pasha or of Mr. Mounteney Jephson during the
seven months of my absence. Knowing the latter to be an energetic
man, we were left to conjecture what had detained Mr. Jephson, even if
the affairs of his province had detained the Pasha.

Mukiiigr Friends With the Natives.
On the 23d of December the united expedition continued its march
eastward, and as we had now to work by relays owing to the fifty extra
loads that we had stored at the fort, we did not reach the Ituri Ferry,
which was our last camp in the forest region before emerging on the
grass land, until January 9.

My anxiety about Mr. Jephson and the Pasha would not permit me to
dawdle on the road making double trips in this manner, so, selecting a
rich plantation and a good cai^ping site to the east of the Ituri river, I
lefl Lieutenant Stairs in command, with 124 people, including Dr. Parke
and Captain Nelson, in charge of all extra loads and camp, and on the
nth of January continued my march eastward.

The people of the plains, fearing a repetition of the fighting of Decem-
ber, 1887, flocked to camp as we advanced and formally tendered their
submission, agreeing to contributions and supplies. Blood brotherhood
was made, exchange of gifts made, and firm friendship was established.
The huts of our camp were constructed by the natives, food, fuel, and
water were brought to the expedition as soon as the halting place was
decided upon.

We heard no news of the white men on Lake Albert from the plain
people, by which my wonder and anxiety were increased, until the i6th,
at a place called Gaviras, messengers from Kavalli came with a packet of
letters, with one letter written on three several dates, with several days
interval between, from Mr. Jephson, and two notes from Emin Pasha
confirming the news in Mr. Jephson's letter.

h a

Si!:-

fii

'iw:

"> '.'"'A'-

M-

708

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

You can but imaj^ine the intense surprise I felt while reading these
letters by giving you extracts from them in Mr. Jcphson's own words:

" DUFFILE, Nov. 7, I 888.

''Dear Sir : — I am writing to tell you of the position of affairs in this
country, and I trust this letter will be delivered to you at Kavalli in time
to warn you to be careful.

"On August i8 a lebellion broke out here and the Pasha and I wore
made prisoners. The Pasha is a complete prisoner, but I am allowed to
go about the station, but my movements are watched. The rebellion
has been gotten up by some half-dozen Egyptidns — officers and clerks—
and gradually others have joined, .some through inclination, but most
through fear; ti)e soldiers, with the exception of those at Lahore, have
never taken part in it, but have quietly given in to their officers.

"When the Pasha and I were on our way to Rejaf,t\vo men, one an
officer — Abdul Vaal P^ffendi — and then a clerk went about and told the
people that they had seen you, and that you were only an adventurer
and had not come from Egypt, that the letters you had brought from the
Khedive and Nubar Pasha were forgeries, that it was untrue Khartoum
had fallen, and that the Pasha and you had made a plot to take them,
their wives, and children, out of the country and hand them over as
slaves to the English. Such words in an ignorant and fanatical country
like this acted like fire amongst the people, and the result was a general
rebellion, and we were made prisoners.

Eiuiii Pasha a Prisoner.

" The rebels theit collected officers from the different stations and held
a large meeting here to determine what measures they should take, and
all those who did'not join in the movement were so insulted and abused
that they were obliged for their ovvn safety to acquiesce in what was
done. The Pasha was deposed, and those officers who were suspected
of being friendly^ to him vvere removed from their posts, and those
friendly to the rebels were put in their places. It was decided to take
the Pasha as a prisoner to Rejaf, and some of the worst rebels were even
for putting him in irons, but the officers were afraid to put their plans
into execution, as the soldiers said they would never permit any one to
lay a hand on him. Plans were also made to entrap you when you
returned, and strip you of all you had.

' Things were in this condition when we were startled by the news
that the Mahdi's people had arrived at Lado with three steamers and
nine sandals and nuggiirs, and had established themselves on the site of
the old station. Omar Sali, their general, sent up three Peacock Der-

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

769

vishcs with a letter to the Pasha (a copy of this will follow as it contains
some interesting news) demanding the instant surrender of the country.
The rebel officers seized them and put them in prison, and decided on
war. After a few days the Mahdists attacked and captured Rejaf, killing
five officers and numbers of soldiers, and taking many women and chil-
dren prisoners, and all the stores and ammunition in the station were lost.
The result of this was a general stampede of people from the stations of
Bidden, Kirri, and Muggi, who fled, with their women and children, to
Lahore, abandoning almost everything; at Kirri the ammunition was*
abandoned, and was at once seized by the natives. The Pasha reckons
that the Mahdists number about 1,500.

" The officers and a large number of soldiers have returned to Muggi,
and intend to make a stand against the Mahdists. Our position here is
extremely unpleasant, for since the rebellion all is chaos and confusion ;
there is no head, and half a dozen conflicting orders are given every day
and no one obeys ; the rebel officers are wholly unable to control the
soldiers.

'* The Baris have joined the Mahdists ; if they come down here with a
rush, nothing can save us.

" The officers are all very much frightened at what has taken place,
and are now anxiously awaiting your arrival, and desire to leave the
country with you, for they are now really persuaded that Khartoum has
fallen, and that you have come from the Khedive.

** Like Rats in a Trap.**
" We are like rats in a trap; they will neither let us act nor retire ; and
I fear, unless you come very soon, you will be too late, and our fate will
be like that of the rest of the garrisons of the Soudan. Had this rebel-
lion not happened the Pasha could have kept the Mahdists in check for
some time, but as it is he is powerless to act.

" I would suggest on your arrival at Kavallis that you write a letter
in Arabic to Shukri Aga, chief of Mswa station, telling him of your
arrival, and telling him you wish to see the Pasha and myself; and
write also to the Pasha or myself, telling us what numbei of men you
have with you. It would perhaps be better to write to me, as a letter to
him might be confiscated.

" Neither the Pasha nor myself think there is the slightest danger now
of any attempt to capture you being made, for the people are now fully
persuaded you come from Egypt, and they look to you to get them out
of their difficulties ; still it would be well for you to make your camp
strong.

4»

p< (

770

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

" If we are not able to get out of the country, please remember me to
roy friends, etc. Yours faithfully,

" A. J. MOUNTENEY JePHSON.

** To H. M. Stanley, Esq., Commander of the Relief Expedition.

"Wadelai, Nov. 24, 1888.

" My messenger having not yet left Wadelai, I add this postscript, as
the Pasha wishes me to send my former letter to you in its entirety.

** Shortly after I had written to you, the soldiers were led by their
officers to attempt to retake Rejaf, but the Mahdists defended it, and
killed six officers and a large number of soldiers ; among the officers
killed were some of the Pasha's worst enemies. The soldiers in all the
stations were so panic-striken and angry at what had happened <^hat they
declared they would not attempt to fight unless the Pasha was set at
liberty ; so the rebel officers were obliged to free him, and sent us to
Wadelai, where he is free to do as he pleases ; but at present he has not
resumed his authority in the country — he is, I believe, by no means
anxious to do so. We hope in a few days to be at Tunguru — a station
on the lake, two days by steamer from N'sabe, and I trust when we hear
of your arrival that the Pasha himself will be able to come down with
nie to see you.

Stanley's Arrival Anxiously Awaited.

" Our danger, as far as the Mahdists are concerned, is of course,
increased by this last defeat ; but our position is in one way better now,
for we are further removed from them, and we have now the option of
retiring if we please, which we had not before while we were prisoners.
We hear that the Mahdists have sent steamers down to Khartoum for
reinforcements ; if so, they cannot be up here for another six weeks. If
they come up here with reinforcements, it will be all up with us, for the
soldiers will never stand against them, and it will be a mere walk-over.

" Every one is anxiously looking for your arrival, for the coming of
the Mahdists has completely cowed them.

"We may just manage to get out — if you do not come later than the
end of December — ^but it is entirely impossible to foresee what will happen.

"A. J. M.J."
'• Tunguru, December 18, 1888.

" Dear Sir : — Mogo (the messenger) not having yet started, I send ?
second postscript. We are now at Tunguru. On November 25th the
Mahdists surrounded Dufile Station and besieged it for four days ; the
soldiers, of whom there were about 500, managed to repulse them, and
they retired to Rejaf, their headquaridrs. They have sent down to

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

771

iber me to

ition.
54, 1888.
(stscript, as
itirety.
;cl by their
ded it, and
the officers
s in all the
ed that they
was set at
i sent us to
t he has not
y no means
u — a station
rhen we hear
iC down with

Khartoum for ' reinforcements, and doubtless will attack ajjain when
strengthened. In our flight from Wadelai, the officers requested me to
destroy our boat (the Advance). I, therefore, broke it up.

" Dufile is being renovated as far as possible. The Pasha is unable to
move hand or foot, as there is still a very strong party against him, and
the officers are no longer in immediate fear of the Mahdists.

'• Do not on any account come down to Usate (my f-^-ner camp on
the lake, near Kavallis Island), but make your camp at Kavallis (on the
plateau above). Send a letter directly you arrive there, and as soon as
we hear of your arrival I will come to you. I will not disgui'^e the fact
from you that you will have a difficult and dangerous work before you
in dealing with the Pasha's people. I trust you will arrive before the
Mahdists are reinforced, or our case will be desperate.

" I am, yours faithfully,

" A. J. MOUNTENEY JePHSON."

You will doubtless remember that I stated to you in one of riiy latest
letters last year, 1888, that I know no more of the ultimate intentions of
Emin Pasha than you at home know. He was at one time expressing
himself as anxious to leave, at another time shaking his head and dolor-
ously exclaiming, " I can't leave my people." Finally, I departed from
him in May, 1888, with something like a definite promise — "If my
people leave, I leave. If my people stay, I stay."

Emin CHp^s to His Province.

Here, then, on January 16, 1888, I receive this batch of letters and two
notes from the Pasha himself confirming the above, but not a word from
either Mr. Jephson or the Pasha, indicative of the Pasha's purpose.
Did he still waver, or was he at last resolved ? With any other man
than the Pasha, or Gordon, one would imagine that, being a prisoner
and a fierce enemy hourly expected to give the coi4p mortal^ he would
gladly embrace the first chance to escape from a country given up by his
government. But there was no hint in these letters whst course the
Pasha would follow. These few hints of mine, however, will throw light
on my postscript which here follows and on my state of mind after read-
ing these letters.

I wrote a formal letter, which might be read by any person, the Pasha,
Mr. Jephson, or any of the rebels, and addressed it to Mr. Jephson as
requested, but on a separate sheet of paper I wrote a private postscript
for Mr. Jephson's perusal.

" Kavallis, Jan. 18, 1889, 3. p. m.

" Dy Dear Jeplison : — I now send thirty rifles and three of Kavallis's

772

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

mrni

men down to the lake with my letters, with urgent instructions that a
canoe should set ofif and the bearer be rewarded.

" I may be able to stay longer than six days here, perhaps for ten days.
I will do ivy best to prolong my stay until you arrive without rupturing
the place. Our people have a good store of beads, cowries, and cloth
and I notice that the natives trade very readily, which will assist Kaval-
lis's resources should he get uneasy under our prolonged visit.

" Be wise, be quick, and waste no hour of time, and bring Buiza and
your own Soudanese with you. I have read your letters half a dozen
limes over, but I fail to grasp the situation thoroughly, because in some
important details one letter seems to contradict the other. In one you
say the Pasha is a close prisoner, while you are allowed a certain amount
of liberty ; in the other you say that you will come to me as soon as you
hear of our arrival here, and ' I trust,' you say, ' the Pasha will be able to
accompany me.' Being prisoners, I fail to see how you could leave
Tunguru at all. AH this is not very clear to us, who are fresh from the
bush.

'* If the Pasha can come, send a courier on your arrival at our old
camp, on the lake below here to announce the fact, and I will send a
strong detachment to escort him up to the plateau, even to carry him if
he needs it, I feel too exhausted, after my 1,300 miles of travel since I
parted from you last May, to go down to the lake again. The Pasha
must have some pity for me.

" Don't be alarmed or uneasy on our recount ; nothing hostile can
approach us within twelve miles without my knowing it. I am in the
thickest of a friendly population, and if I sound the war note, within
four hours I can have two thousand warrior? to assist to repel any force
disposed to violence. And if it is to be a war of wits, why then I am
ready for the cunningest Arab alive.

Plain Talk.

" I wrote above that I read your letters half a dozen times, and my
opinion of you varies with each reading. Sometimes I fancy you are
half Mahdist, or Arabist, and then Eminist. I shall be wiser when I see
you.

" Now don't you be perverse, but obey, and let my order to you be as
a frontlet between the eyes, and all, with God's gracious help, will end
well.

" I want to help the Pasha somehow, but he must also help me, and
credit me. If he wishes to get out of this trouble I im his most devoted
servant and friend, but if he hesitates again I shall be plunged in wonder

ions that n

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

773

and perplexity. I could save a dozen Pashas if they were willing to be
saved. I would go on my knees to implore the Pasha to be sensible in
his own case. He is wise enough in all things else, even his own
interest. Be kind and good to h.m for many virtues, but do not you bt
drawn into the fatal fascination Soudan territory seems to have for all
Europeans of late years. As soon as they touch its ground they seem
to be drawn into a whirlpool which sucks them in ;id covers them with
its waves. The only way to avoid it is to obey blindly , devotedly, and
unquestioning all orders from the outside.

" The committee said, ' Relieve Emin Pasha with this ammunition.
If he wishes to come out, the ammunition will enable him to do so ; if
he elects to stay, it will be of service to him.' The Khedive said the
same thing, and added, * But if the Pasha and his officers w.sh to stay
they do so on their own responsibility.' Sir P^velyn Baring said the
same t^ing in clear and decided words, and here I am, after 4,100 miles
of travel, with the last instalment of relief. Let him who is authorized
to take it, take it. Come, I am ready to lend him all my strength and
wit to assist him. But this time there must be no hesitation, but positive
yea or nay, and home we go.

" Yours very sincerely,

" Henry M. Stanley.
" A. J. Mounteney Jephson, Esq."

If you wUl bear in mind that on August 17, 1888, after a march of
600 miles to hunt up the rear column, 1 met only a miserable remnant of
it, wrecked by the irresolution of its officers, neglect of their promises,
and indifference to their written orders, you will readily understand why,
after another march of 700 miles, I was a little put out when I dis-
covered that, instead of performing their promise of conducting the gar-
rison of Fort Bodo to the Nyanza, Mr. Jephson and Emin Pasha had
allowed themselves to be made prisoners on about the very day they
were expected by the garrison of Fort Bodo to reach them. It could
not be pleasant reading to find that, instead of beinj.^ able to relieve Emin
Pasha, I was more than likely, by the tenor of these letteis, to lose one
of my own officers, and to add to the number of the Europeans in that
unlucky Equatorial Province. However, a persona^ interview with Mr.
Jephson was necessary, in the first place, to understand fairly or fully the

state of affairs.

Meeting Jephson.

On February 6, 1889, Mr. Jephson arrived in the afternoon at our

camp at Kavallis on the plateau.

I was startled to hear Mr. Jephson in plain, undoubting words, say,

1 '

I' Us I

^'{•1

t *;

)i I

774

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

'•Sentiment is the Pasha's worst enemy; no one keeps Emin Pasha back
but Emin Pasha himself." This is a summary of what Mr. Jephson had
learned during nine months from May 25, 1888, to February 6, 1889.
I gathered sufficiently from Mr. Jephson's verbal report to conclude
that during nine months neither the Pasha, Signor Casqti, nor any man
in the province had arrived nearer any other conclusion than that which
was told us ten months before, thus :

The Pasha — If my people go, I go. If they stay, I stay.

Signor Casati — If the Governor goes, I go. If the Governor stays, I stay.

The Faithful — If the Pasha goes, we go. If the Pasha stays, we stay.

However, the diversion in our favor created by the Mahdists' invasion,
and the dreadful slaughter they made of all they met, inspired us with
d hope that we could get a definite answer at last, though Mr. Jephson
could only reply, " I really cannot tell you what the Pasha means to do.
He says he wishes to go away, but will not make a move — no one will
move. It is impossible to say what any man will do. Perhaps another
advance by the Mahdists would send them all pell-mell towards you, to
be again irresolute, and requiring several weeks' rest to consider again."

Stauley's Doiiand.

On February ist I despatched a company to the steam ferry with
orderb to Mr. Stairs to hasten with his column to Kavallis, with a view
to concentrate the expedition ready for any contingency. Couriers were
also despatched to the Pasha telling him of our movements and inten-
tions, and asking him to point out how we could best aid him — whether
it would be best for us to remain at Kavallis, or whether we should ad
vance into the province and assist him at Mswa or Tunguru Island, where
Mr. Jephson had left him. I suggested the simplest plan for him would
be to seize a steamer and employ her in the transport of the refugees,
who I heard were collected in numbers at Tunguru, to my old camp
on the Nyanza ; or that, failing a steamer, he should march overland
from Tunguru to Mswa, and send a canoe to inform me he had done so,
and a few days after I could be at Mswa with 250 rifles to escort them to
Kavallis. But the demand was for something positive, otherwise it
would be my duty to destro^ the ammunition and march homeward.

On the 13th of February a native courier appeared in camp with a
letter from Emin Pasha, with news which electrified us. He was actually
at anchor just below our pUteau camp. But here is the formal letter :

"Camp, February 13, 1889.
*" Henry M. Stanley, Esq., command-ng the Relief Expedition.

" Sir : — In answer to your letter of the 7th inst., for which I beg to

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

775

tender my best thanks, I have the honor to inform you that yesterday at
3 p. M. I have arrived here with my two steamers, carrying a first lot of
people desirous to leave this country under your escort. As soon as I
have arranged for cover of my people, the steamships have to start for
Mswa station to bring on another lot of people awaiting transport.

"With me there are some twelve officers anxious to see you, and
only forty soldiers. They have come under my orders to request you
to give them some time to bring their brothers, at least to do my best
to assist them. Things having to some extent now changed, you will
be able to make them undergo whatever conditions you see fit to
impose upon them. To arrange those I shall start from here with
the officers for your camp, after having provided for the camp, and
if you send carriers 'I could avail me of some of them.

" I hope sincerely that the great difficulties you have had to un-
dergo and the great sacrifices made by your expedition rti its way to
assist us may be rewarded by a full success in bringing out my people.
The wave of insanity which overran the country has subsided, and of
such people as are now coming with me we may be sure.

" Signor Casati requests me to give his best thanks for your kind re-
membrance of him.

" Permit me to express to you cnce more my cordial thanks for what-
ever you have done for us until now.

" Believe me to be yours very faithfully,

" Dr. Emin."

During the interval between Mr. Jephson's arrival and the receipt of
this letter Mr. Jephson had written a pretty full report of all that he had
heard from the Pasha, Signor Casati, and Egyptian soldiers of all the
principal events that had transpired within the last few years in the Equa-
torial Province.

Desperate Situation.

In Mr. Jephson's report I come across such sentences as the following
conclusions. I give them for your consideration :

" And this leads me now to say a few words concerning the position of
affairs in this country when I entered it on April 21, 1888, The ist Bat-
talion — about 700 rifles — had long been in rebellion against the Pasha's
authority, and had twice attempted to make him prisoner. The 2d Bat-
talion — -about 650 rifles — though professedly loyal, was insubordinate and
almost unmanageable. The Pasha possessed only a semblance — a mere
rag — of authority, and if he required anything of importance to be done,he
could no longer order — he was obliged to beg — his officers to do it.

m't

776

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

" Now when we were at Nsebe in May, 1888, though the Pasha hinted
that things were a little difficult in his country, he never revealed to us
the true state of things, which was actually desperate, and we had not
the slightest idea that any mutiny or discontent was likely to arise
amongst his people. We thought, as most people in Europe and Egypt
had been taught to believe by the Pasha's own letters and Dr. Junker's
later representations, that all his difficulties arose from events outside his
country, whereas, in point of fact, his real danger arose from internal dis-
sensions. Thus we were led to place our trust in people who were utterly
unworthy of our confidence or help, and who, instead of being grateful
to us for wishing to help them, have from the very first conspired how to
plunder the expedition and turn us adrift, and had the mutineers in their
highly excited state been able to prove one single case of injustice or
cruelty or neglect of his people against the Pasha he would most assuredly
have lost his life in this rebellion."

Eniin*s Noble Traits.

I shall only worry you just now with one more quotation from Mr.
Jephson's final report and summary :

" A« to the Pasha's wish to leave the country, I can say decidedly he
is most anxious to go out with us, but under what conditions he will
consent to come out I can hardly understand. I do not think he quite
knows himself. His ideas seem to me to vary so much on the subject.
To-day he is ready to start up and go, to-morrow some new idea holds
him back. I have had many conversations with him about it, but have
never been able to get his unchanging opinion on the subject. After
this rebellion, I remarked to him, ' I presume, now that yonr people have
deposed you and put you aside, you do not consider that you have any
longer any responsibility or obligations concerning them ; ' and he
answered, ' Had they not deposed me, I should have felt bound to stand
by them and help them in any way I could, but now I consider I am
absolutely free to think only of my own personal safety and welfare, and
if I get the chance I shall go out regardless of everything.' And yet
only a few days before I left him he said to me, ' I know I am not in any
way responsible for these people, but I cannot bear to go out myself
first and leave any one here behind me who is desirous of quitting the
country. It is mere sentiment, I know, and perhaps a sentiment you
will sympathize with, but my enemies at Wadelai would point at me and
say to the people, " You see he has deserted you ! * *'

"These are merely two examples of what passed between us on the
subject of his going out with us, but I could quote numbers of things he

mmM

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

777

has said equally contradictory. Again, too, being somewhat impatient,
after one of these unsatisfactory conversations, I said, * If ever the expe-
dition does reach any place near you, I shall advise Mr. Stanley to arrest
you and carry you off, whether you will or no;' to which he replied,
' Well, I shall do nothing to prevent you doing that.' It seems to me
that if we are to save him we must save him from himself.

" Before closing my report I must bear witness to the fact that in my
frequent conversations with all sorts and conditions of the Pasha's peo-
ple I heard with hardly any exceptions only praise of his justice and gen-
erosity to his people, but I have heard it suggested that he did not hold
his people with a sufficiently firm hand.

" I now am bound, by the length of this letter, necessities of travel, and
so forth, to halt. Our .stay at Kufurro is ended, and we must march
to-morrow. A new page of this interesting period in our expedition
will be found in my next letter. Meantime you have the satisfaction to
know that Emin Pasha, after all, is close to our camp at the Lake shore ;
that carriers have bqen sent to him to bring up his luggage, and assist
his people. Yours faithfully,

"Henry M. Stanley.
"William Mackinnon, Esq.,

Chairman of Emin Pasha Relief Committe.'*

The following letter from Mr. Stanley to a personal friend gives further
details of his great expedition :

C.M.S. Station, S. End Victoria Nyanza, Sept. 3, 1889.

My Dear Marston: — It just now appears such an age to me since I
left England. Ages have gone by since I saw you, surely. Do you
know why? Because a daily thickening barrier of silence has crept
between that time and this : silence so dense that in vain we yearn to
pierce it. On my side I may ask, " What have you been doing?" On
yours, you may ask, " And what have you been doing ? " I can assure you
now that I know you live, that one day has followed another in striving
strifefuUy against all manner of obstacles, natural and otherwise, from the
day I left Yambuyo to August 28, 1889, the day I arrived here.

Many Adventures^

The bare catalogue of incidents would fill several quires of foolscap,
the catalogue of skirmishes would be of respectable length, the catalogue
of adventures, accidents, mortalities, sufferings from /ever, morbid mus-
ings over mischances, that meet us daily, would make a formidable list.
You know that all the stretch of country between Yambuya to this place
was an absolutely new country except what may be measured by five

778

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

ordinary marches. First, there is that dead white ot* the map now
changed to a dead black. I mean that darkest region of the earth con-
fined between E. long. 25 deg. and E. long. 2945 deg., one great, com-
pact, remorselessly sullen forest — the growth of an untold number of
ages, swarming at stated intervals with immense numbers of vicious, man-
eating savages and crafty under-sized men, who were unceasing in their
annoyance ; then there is that belt of grassland lying between it and the
Albert Nyanza, whose people contested every mile of advance with
spirit, and made us think that they were guardians of some priceless
treasure hidden on the Nyanza shores, or at war with Emin Pasha and
his thousands. A Sir Percival in search of the Holy Grail could not
have met with hotter opposition.

Three separate times necessity compelled us to traverse this unholy
region v/ith varying fortunes. Incidents then crowded fast. Emin Pasha
was a prisoner, an officer of ours was his forced companion, and it really
appeared as though we were to be added to the list ; but there is a virtue,
you know, even in striving unyieldingly, in hardening the nerves, and
facing these ever-clinging mischances without paying too much heed to
tlie reputed danger. One is assisted much by knowing that there is no
other course, and the danger somehow nine times out of ten diminishes.
The rebels of Emin Pasha's Government relied on their craft and the
wiles of the "heathen Chinee "; and it is rather amusing now to look
back and note how punishment has fallen on them.

Was it Providence or luck ? Let those who love to analyze such mat-
ters reflect on it. Traitors without the camp and traitors within were
watched, and the most active conspirator was discovered, tried and hung.
The traitors without fell foul of one another, and ruined themselves. If
not luck, then it is surely Providence, in answer to good men's prayers
far away.

Men Devouring Men.
Our own people, tempted by extreme wretchedness and misery, sold
our rifles and ammunition to our natural enemies, the Manyema slave-
traders, true fiends without the least grace in either their bodies or souls.
What happy influence was it that restrained me from destroying all those
concerned in it ? Each time I read the story of Captain Nelson's and Sur-
geon Parke's sufferings, I feel vexed at my forbearance, and yet again I
ftel thankful, for a Higher Power than man's severely afflicted the cold-
blooded murderers by causing them to feed upon one another, a few
weeks after the rescue and relief of Nelson and Parke. The memory of
those days alternately hardens and unmans me.

HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH.

779

map now
iarth con-
eat, com-
lumber of
ious, nian-
g in their
I it and the
ranee with
le priceless
Pasha and
i could not

this unholy
Emin Pasha
and it really
re is a virtue,

nerves, and
uch heed to
t there is no
n diminishes.
;raft and the

iow to look

With the rescue of Pasha, poor old Casati, and those who preferred
Egypt's fleshpots to the coarse plenty of the province near the Nyanza,
we returned, and while we were patiently waiting the doom of the rebels
was consummated.

Since that time of anxiety and unhappy outlook I have been at the
point of death from a dreadful illikess ; the strain had been too much, and
for twenty-eight days I lay helpless, tended by the kindly and skillful
hand of Surgeon Parke.

Then, little by little, I gathered strength aud ordered the march for
home. Discovery after discovery in the wonderful region was made. The
snowy range of Ruevenzoni, the " Cloud King " or " Rain Creator," the
Semliki River, the Albert Edward Nyanza, the new peoples, dwellers of the
rich forest region, the Wanyora bandits, and then the Lake Albert Edward
tribes, and the shepherd race of the Eastern Uplands — until at last we
came to a church, whose cross dominated a Christian settlement, and
we knew that we had reached the outskirts of blessed civilization.

Tedious Delay.
We have every reason to be grateful, and may that feeling be ever kept
within me. Our promises as volunteers have been performed as well as
though we had been specially commissioned by a Government. We have
been all volunteers, each devoting his several gifts, abilities and energies
to win a successful issue for the enterprise. If there has been anything
that clouded sometimes our thoughts, it has been that we were compelled
by the state of Emin Pasha and his own people to cause anxieties to our
friends by tedious delay. At every opportunity I have endeavored to
lessen these by despatching full accounts of our progrees to the Com-
mittee, that through them all interested might be acquainted with what
we had been doing. Some of my officers also have been trouble4 in
thought that their government might not overlook their having over-
stayed their leave, but the truth is, the wealth of the British Treasury
could not have hastened our march, without making ourselves liable to
impeachment fc r breach of fai<^h, and the officers were as much involved
as myself in do ng the thing honorably and well.

I hear there is great trouble, war, etc. between the Germans and Arabs
of Zanzibar. What influence this may have on our future I do not know,
but we trust nothing to interrupt the march to the sea which nill be
begun in a few days.

Meantime, with such wishes as the best and most inseparable friends
endov/ one another, I pray you to believe me always yours sincerely,
(Signed) Henry M. Stanley.

To Edwd. Marston, Esq.

n f

780

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Professor Schvveinfurth, of Berlin, received the following letter from

Emin Pasha:

English Mission Station, Ussambiro,

Victoria Nyanza, 26th August.

Mr. Stanley with his people, as well as the few who came with me,

have just arrived here. I hasten to send you, who have always shown

me so much kindness and taken such interest in me, these few lines as a

sign of life. If we stay here, as I hope, for a few days I shall be able to

write you more fully, although J am half blind. I hope to be able to

tell you, some leisure evening, all about the military revolution in my

own province ; about Mr. Jephsou and myself being detained prisoners

in Dufile; the arrival of the Mahdi's followers in Lado and the capture

and destructiou of Rejaf; the massacre of the soldiers and ofificers sent

against them ; our departure to Wadelai and Tunguru ; the Mahdist

attack on Dufile and their complete defeat ; our final union with Mr.

Stanley and the march here from the Albert Nyanza, vvhich has proved

geographically and otherwise so highly interesting. I have also some

good specimens of plants for you. May I ask you to greet Messrs.

Junker, Ratzel, Leipan, Haffcnstein, and Perthes from me ? I will Uy

to write — but my eyes ! — Accept my best greetings, and believe me your

sincere and devoted

£*IIN.

ih iV' 'hi ■

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

Stanley's Continued History of His March— Emin's Arrival at Stanley's Cam|>—
Arranging for the Jourj^ey— Arabs who Always Agree with You— That Stolen
Rifle— Selim Bey Deposed — The Surgeon's Devotion— A Doctor who Loved
His Cases— The Refugees and Their Luggage— Fallstaff's Buck Basket— Piles of
Rubbish — Porters with an Ugly Temper— Emin's Inquiry— Government Envoy —
Stanley's Reply to Emin —Hankering for Egypt— Stanley Reviews the Situa-
tion — The Pasha's Danger — Rebels Everywhere— Stirring up Emin — Rebels
Threaten to Rob Stanley — Threats of Sending Stanley's Expedition into the
Wilderness to Perish — Selim Bey's Delay — Rebels Possessed of Ammunition —
When Shall the March Commence ? — Reply of the Officers— Questions of Honor
and Duty — Europeans Unwilling to Quit Africa— A Contract Broken— Emin Acquit-
ted of All Dishonor— Emin's Unwavering Faith — Few Willing to Follow Emin to
Egypt— Tales of Disorder and Distress— Compulsory Muster and Start— All
Except Two Wish to Go to Zanzibar— Stanley Threatens the Treacherous Arabs-
Expedition Starts for Home — Fifteen Hundred in the Party -Illness of Stan-
ley — Conspiracies — Ringleader of Sedition Executed — A Packet of Letters— Inso-
lent Message from Selim Bey — The Perilous March— A Great Snowy Rang*—
Climbing the Mountains -Sufferings on the Journey.

'WELVE days after penning the account of his expedition con-
tained in the last chapter, Mr. Stanley sent a continued history of
his march. Thus we have from his graphic pen a complete
narrative of his wonderful exploits throughout his last great

journey.

Camp at Kizinga, Uzinja, August 17, 1889.

To the Chairman of the Emin Pasha Relief Committee.

Sir: — On the 17th of February, Emin Pasha and a following of about
sixty-five people, inclusive of Selim Bey or Colonel Selim and seven
other officers, who were a deputation sent by the officers of the Equatorial
Province, arrived at mv camp on the plateau near Kavallis village. The
Pasha was in mufti, but the deputation were in uniform, and made quite
a sensation in the country. Three of them were Egyptians, but the
others were Nubians, and were rather soldierly in their appearance, and
with one or two exceptions received warm commendations from the
Pasha. The divan was to be held the next day. On the 18th Lieut.
Stairs arrived with his column, largely augmented by Mazamboni's
people, from the Ituri river, and the expedition was once more united,
not to be separated 1 hoped again during our stay in Africa. At the

(781)

782

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

meeting which was held in the morning Selim Bey — who had lately
distinguished himself at Dufile by retaking the station from the Mah-
dists, and killing about 250 cf them, it was said — a tall, burly, elderly
man of fifty or thereabouts — stated on behalf of the deputation and the
officers at Wadelai that they came to ask for time to allow the troops
and their families to assemble at Kavallis.

Though they knew what our object in coming to the Nyanza was, or
they ought to have known, I took the occasion, through the Pasha, who
is thoroughly proficient in Arabic, to explain it in detail. I wondered at
the ready manner they approved everything, though, since, I have dis-
covered that such is their habit though they may not believe a word you
utter. I then told them that though I had waited nearly a year to
obtain a simple answer to the single question, whether they would stay
in Africa, or accompany us to Egypt, I would give them before they
departed a promise written in Arabic that I would stay a reasonable
time, sufficient to enable them to embark themselves and families and all
such as were willing to leave on board the steamers and to arrive at the
Lake shoie below our camp. The deputation replied that my answer
was quite satisfactory, and they promised on their part that they would
proceed direct to Wadelai, proclaim to all concerned what my answer
was, and commence the work of transport.

Tho Surgfeoii*8 Devotion.

On the 2 1 St the Pasha and the deputation went down to the Nyanza
camp on account of a false alarm about the Wanyoro advancing to attack
the camp. A rifle was stolen from the expedition by one of the officers
of the deputation. This was a bad beginning of our intercourse that
was promised to be. The two steamers Khedive and Nyanza had gone
in the meantime to Mswa to transport a fresh lot of refugees, and
returned on the 25th, and the next day the deputation departed on their
mission ; but before they sailed they had a mail from Wadelai wherein
they were informed that another change of Government had taken place.
Selim Bey — the highest official under the Pasha — had been deposed,
and several of the rebel officers had been promoted to the rank of Beys.
The next day the Pasha returned to our camp with his little daughter
Ferida and a caravan of 144 men. In reply to a question of mine the
Pasha replied that he thought - twenty days a sufficiently reasonable
time for all practical purposes, and he offered to write it down in form.
But this I declined, as I but wished to know whether my idea of a
"reasonable time" and his differed; for after finding what time was
required for a steamer to make a round voyage from our old camp on

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

783

the Nyanza to Wadelai and back, I had proposed to myself that a month
would be more than sufficient for Selim Bey to collect all such people as
desired to leave for Kgypt.

The interval devoted to the transport of the Egyptians from Wadelai
could also be utilized by Surgeon Parke in healing our sick. At this
time the hardest-worked man in our expedition was the surgeon. Ever
since leaving Fort Bodo in December Surgeon Parke attended over a
hundred sick daily. There were all kinds of complaints, but the most
numerous and those who gave the most trouble were those who suffered
from ulcers. So largely had these drained our medicine chests that the
surgeon had nothing left for their disease but pure carbolic acid and per-
manganate of potash. Nevertheless, there were some wonderful
recoveries during the halt of Stair's column on the Ituri River in
January.

The surgeon's *' devotion" — there is not a fitter word for it — his regu-
lar attention to all the minor details of his duties, and his undoubted
skill, enabled me to turn out 280 able-bodied men by the 1st of April,
sound in vital organs and limbs, and free from all blemish : whereas on the
1st of February it would have been difficult to have mustered 200 men in
the ranks fit ior service. I do not think that I ever met a doctor who so
loved his "cases. To him they were all •* interesting," despite the odors
emitted, and the painfully qualmish scenes. I consider this expedition
in nothing happier than in t!ie possession of an unrivalled physician and
surgeon, Dr. F. H. Parke. Meanwhile, while " Our Doctor" was assidu-
ously dressing and trimming up the ulcerous ready for the march to
Zanzibar, all men fit for duty were doing far more than either we or they
bargained for. We had promised the Pasha to assist his refugees to the
Plateau Camp with a few carriers — that is, as any ordinary man might
understand it, with one or two carriers per Egyptian ; but never had
people so grossly deceived themselves as we had.

The Refugees and Their Iiuggage.
The loads were simply endless, and the sight of the rubbish which the
refugees brought with them, and which was to be carried up that plateau
slope to an altitude of 2,800 feet above the Nyanza, made our people
groan aloud — such things as grinding stones ! ten-gallon copper cooking
pots, some 200 bedsteads, preposterously big baskets — like Falstafif' s
buck basket — old Saratoga trunks fit for American mammas, old sea-
chests, great clumsy-looking boxes, little cattle troughs, large twelve-gallon
pombe jars, parrots, pigeons, etc. These things were pure rubbish, for
all would have to be discarded at the signal to march. Eight hundred

M '\

i| i

784

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

and fifty-three loads of these goods were, however, brought up with the
assistance of the natives, subject as they were to be beaten ai'^i maltreated
by the vile ',impered Egyptian each time the natives went down to the
Nyanza ; but the Zanzibaris now began to show an ugly temper also.
They knew just enough Arabic to he aware that the obedience, tract-
ability, and ready service they exhibited were translated by the Egyp-
tians into cowardice and slavishness, and after these hundreds of loads
had been conveyed they refused point blank to carry any more, and they
explained their reasons so well that we warmly sympathized with them
at heart ; but by this refusal they came jn contact with discipline, and
strong measures had to be resorted to to coerce them to continue the
work until the order to '^ Cease " was given. On the 31st March we were
all heartily tired of it, and we abandoned the interminable task. One
thousand three hundred and fifty-five loads had been transported to the
plateau from the Lake camp.

The Pasha's Inquiry.

Thirty days after Selim Bey's departure for Wadelai a steamer appeared
before the Nyanza Camp bringing in a letter from that officer, and also
one from l\\ the rebel officers at Wadelai, who announced themselves as
delighted ",t hearing twelve months after my second appearance at Lake
Albert that the " Envoy of our great Government " had arrived, and that
they were now all unanimous for departing to Egypt under my escort.
When the Pasha had mastered the contents of his mails he came to me
to impart the information that Selim Bey had caused one steamer full of
refugees to be sent up to Tungura fr*. m Wadelai, and since that time he
had been engaged in transporting people from Dufile up to Wadelai.
According to this rate of progress it became quite clear that it would
require three months more — even if this effort at work, which was quite
heroic, in Selim Bey would continue — ^before he could accomplish the
transport of the people to the Nyanza Camp below the plateau. The
Pasha, personally elated at what he thought to be good news, desired to
know what I had determined upon under the new aspect of affairs. In
reply I summoned the officers of the Expedition together — Lieuteuant
Stairs, R.E., Captain R. H. Nelson, Surgeon T. H. Parke, A. M. Monte-
ney Jephson, Esq., and Mr. William Bonny — and proposed to them in
the Pasha's presence that they should listen to a few explanations, and
then give their decision one by one according as they should be asked :

" Gentlemen, — Emin Pasha has received a mail from Wadelai. Selim
Bey, who left the port below here on the 26th February last with a prom-
ise that he would hurry up such people as wished to go to Egypt, write*

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

f85

ip with the
maltreated
iowri to the
temper also,
iicnce, tract-
' the Egyp-
:ds of loads
jre, and they
id with them
iscipline, and
, continue the
Larch we were
le task. One
sported to the

:amer appeared
fficer, and also
themselves as
irance at Lake
•rived, and that
ier my escort,
le came to me
steamer full of
;e that time he
ip to Wadelai.
that it would
hich was quite
Lccomplish the
plateau. The
lews, desired to
of affairs. In
^er— Lieuteuant

.^ A. M. Monte-
Ised to them in
■planatious, and
[ould be asked:
.adelai. Selim
Lstwithaprom-

[to Egypt, writ^*

from Wadelai that the steamers are engaged in transporting some peo-
ple from Dufile to Wadelai ; that thj work of transport between Wadelai
and Tunguru will be resumed upon the accomplishment of the other
task. When he went away from here we were informed that he was
deposed, and that Emin Pasha and he were sentenced to death by the
• rebel officers. We now learn that the rebel officers (ten in number) and
all their faction are desirous of proceeding to Egypt.. We may suppose
therefore that Selim Bey's party is in the ascendant again. Shukri Aga,
the chief of Mswa Station — the station nearest to us — paid us a visit here
in the middle of March. He was informed on the i6th of March, the
day that he departed, that our departure for Zanzibar would positively
begin on the loth of April. He took with him urgent letters for Selim
Bey onnouncing that fact in unmistakable terms.

Mr. Stanley's Reply.
" Eight days later we hear that Shukri Aga is still at Mswa having only
sent a few women and children to the Nyanza Camp, yet he and his peo-
ple might have been here by this — if they intended to accompany us.
Thirty days ago Selim Bey left us with a promise of a reasonable time.
The Pasha thought once that twenty days would be a reasonable time —
however, we have extended it to forty-four Jays. Judging by the length of
time Selim Bey has already taken, reaching Tunguru with only one-six-
teenth of the expected force, I personally am quite prepared to give the
Pasha my decision. For you must know, gentlemen, that the Pasha,
having heard from Selem Eey intelligence so encouraging, wishes to know
my decision, but I have prelerred to call you to answer for me. You are
aware that our instructions were to carry relief to Emin Pasha, and to
escort such as were willing to accompany us to Egypt. We arrived at
the Nyanza and met Emin Pasha in the latter part of April, 1888, just
twelve months ago. We handed him his letters from the Khedive and
his Government, and also the first instalment of relief, and ask-J him
whether we were to have the pleasure of his company to Zanzibar. He
replied that his decision depended on that of his people. This vas the
first adverse news that we received. Instead of meeting with a number
of people only too anxious to leave Africa, it was questionable whether
there would be any except a few Egyptian clerks. With Major Bartte
lot so far distant in the rear we could not wait at the Nyanza for this
decision. As that might possibly require months, it would be more pro-
fitable to seek and assist the rear column, and by the time we arrived
here again those willing to go to Egypt would be probably impatient to
start.

*■ -v n

'i. \

U-

■I : ,'■

7fcG

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

" We therefore — leaving Mr. Jephson to convey our message to the
Pasha's troops — returned to the Forest Region for the rear column, and
in nine months were back again on the Nyanza. But instead of discover-
ing a camp of people anxious and ready to depart from Africa, we find
no camp at all, but hear that both the Pasha and Mr. Jephson are pri-
soners, that the Pasha has been in imminent danger of his life from the
rebels, and at anothef time is in danger of being bound on his bedstead
and taken to the interior of the Makkaraka country. It has been current
talk in the Province that we were only a party of conspirators and ad-
venturers ; that the letters of the Khedive and Nubar Pasha were forgeries
concocted by the vile Christians Stanley and Casati, assisted by Moham-
med Emin Pasha.

Stirrinp* up the Pasha.

" So elatecl have the rebels been by their bloodless victory over the
IPasha and Mr. Jephson that they have confidently boasted of their pur-
pose to entrap me by cajoling words, and strip our Expedition of every
article belonging to it, and send us adrift into the wilds to perish. We
jneed not dwell on the ingratitude of these men, or on their intense
Jgnorance and evil natures ; but you must bear in rrind the facts to
•guide you to a clear decision. We believed when we volunteered for
this work that we should be met w ith open arms. We were received
with indifference, until we were led to doubt whether any people
•wished to depart ; my representative was made a priso*ier, menaced
Avith rifles ; threats were freely u§ed ; the Pasha was deposed, and for
three months was a close prisoner. I am told this is the third revolt
in the Province. We) !, in the face of all this we have waited nearly
twelve months to obtain the few hundreds of unarmed men, women
and children in this camp. As I promised Selim Bey and his officers
that I would give a reasoi able time, Selim Bey and his officers repeatedly
promised to us there should be no delay. The Pasha has already fixed
the loth April, which extended their time to forty-four days, sufficient
for three round voyages for each steamer.

"The news brought to-day is not that Selim Bey is close here, but that
he has not started from Waddin yet. In addition to his own friends,
who are said to be loyal and obedient to him, he brings. the ten rebel
officers and some 600 or 700 soldiers, their faction. Remembering the"
three revolts which these same officers have inspired, their pronounced
intentions towards this expedition, their plots and counterplots, the life of
conspiracy and smiling treachery they have led, we may well pause to
consider what object principally animates them now — that from being

STANLEY'S 'TRIUMPH.

787

,ge to the
imn, and
fdiscover-
^ we find
n are pri-
from the
3 bedstead
een current
rs and ad-
:re forgeries
by Moham-

3ry over the
)f their pur-
ion of every
perish. We
their intense
[ the facts to
)lunteered for
rere received
any people
ler, menaced
,osed, and for
le third revolt
aited nearly
men, women
Id his officers
;rs repeatedly
already fixed
lays, sufficient

I here, but that
own friends,
Ithe ten rebel
lembering the
jr pronounced
[lots, the life o(
Iwell pau'^e to
lat from being

ungovernably rebellious against all constituted authority, they have sud-
denly become obedient and loyal soldiers of the Khedive and his ' great
Government,' You must be aware that, exclusive of the thirty-one boxes
of ammunition delivered to the Pasha by us ih May, 1888, the rebels pos-
sess ammunition of the Provincial Government equal to twenty of our
cases. We are bound to credit them with intelligence enough to per-
ceive that such a small supply would be fired in an hour's fighting among
so many rifles, and that only a show of submission and apparent loyalty,
will ensure a further supply from us. Though the Pasha brightens up
each time he obtains a.plausible lettei' from these people strangers like
we arc may also be forgiven for not readily trusting those men whom
they have such good cause to mistrust. Could we have some guarantee
of good faith there could be no objection to delivering to them all they
required — that is, with the permission of the Pasha. Can we be cer-
tain, however, that if we admit them into this camp as good friends
and loyal soldiers of Egypt they will not rise up some night and pos-
sess themselves of all the ammunition, and so deprive us of the power,
of returning to Zanzibar ? It would be a very easy matter for them to
do so after they had acquired the knowledge of the rules of the camp.
With our minds filled with Mr. Jephson's extraordinary revelations of
what has been going on in the Province since the closing of the Nile
route, beholding the Pasha here before my very eyes, who was lately sup-
posed tQ have several thousands of people under him, but now without
any important following — and bearing in mind ' the cajolings ' and
* wiles ' by which we were to be entrapped, I ask you. Would we be wise
in extending the time of delay beyond the date fixed, that is the tenth of
April ?"

The officers one after another replied in the negative.
" There, Pasha," I said, " you have your answer. We march on the
10th of April."

The Pasha then asked if we could *in our consciences acquit him of
having abandoned his people," supposing they have not arrived by the
10th April. We replied, " Mo?t certainly."

Questions of Honor pnd Duty.
Three or four days after this I was informed by the Pasha, who pays
great deference to Captain Casati's views, that Captain Casati was by no
means certain that he was doing quite right in abandoning his people.
According to the Pasha's desire I went o^er to see Captain Casati, fol-
lowed soon after by Emin Pasha. Questions of law, honor, duty were
brought forward by Casati, who expressed himself clearly that " nioral-

ii I i

788

WONDi:.RS OF THE TROPICS.

mente " Emiii Pasha was bound to stay by his people, I quote these
matters simply to show to you that our principal difficulties lay not only
with the Soudanese and Egyptians ; we had some with the Europeans
also who for some reason or other seemed in no wise inclined to quit
Africa, even when it was quite clear that the Pasha of the Province had
few loyal men to rely on, that the outlook before them was imminent
danger and death, and that on our retirement there was no other pros-
pect than the grave. I had to refute these morbid ideas with the ABC
of common sense.

A Contract Violated.

I had to illustrate the obligations of Emin Pasha to his soldiers by
comparing them to a mutual contract between two parties. One party
refused to abide by its stipulations, and would have no communication
vvitli the other, but proposed to itself to put the second party to death.
Could that be called a contract ? Emin Pasha was appointed Governor
of the Province. He had remained faithful to his post and dutiea until
his own people rejected him and finally deposed him. He had been
informed by his Government that if he and his officers and soldiers
elected to quit the Province they could avail themselves of the escort of
the expedition which had been sent to their assistance, or stay ia Africa
on their own responsibility; that the Government had abandoned the
Province altogether. But when the Pasha informs his people of the
Government's wishes, the officers and soldiers declare the whole to be
false, and decline to depart with him — will listen to no suggestions of
departing, but lay hands on him, menace him with death, and for three
months detain him a close prisoner. Where was the dishonor to the
Pasha in yielding to what was inevitable and indisputable ? As for duty,
the Pasha had a dual duty to perform — that to the Khedive as his chief,
and that to his soldiers. So long as neither duty clashed affairs pro-
ceeded smoothly enough, but the instant it was hinted to the soldiers
that they might retire now if they wished, they broke out into open vio-
lence and revolted, absolved the Pasha of all duty towards them, and
denied that he had any duty to perform to them; consequently the Pasha
could not be morally bound to care in the least for people who would not
listen to him.

I do not think Casati was convinced, nor do I think the Pasha was
convinced. But it is strange what strong hold this part of Africa has
upon European officers, Egyptian officers, and Soudanese soldiers.

The next day after this Emin Pasha informed me that he was certain
all the Egyptians in the camp would leave with him on the day named,

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

789

but from other quarters reports reached me that not one quarter of them
would leave the camp at Kavallis. The abundance of food, the quiet
demeanor of the natives, with whom we were living in perfect concord,
seemed to them to be sufficient reasons for preferring life near the Nyanza
to the difficulties of the march. Besides, the Mahdists whom thev
dreaded were far away and could not possibly reach them.

The Pasha's Unwaveringr Faith.

On the 5th of April, Serom, the Pasha's servant, told me that not
many of the Pasha's servants intended to follow him on the loth. The
Pasha hims'elf confirmed this. Here was a disappointment, indeed ! Out
of the 10,000 people there were finally comparatively very few willing to
follow him to Egypt. To all of us on the Expedition it had been clear
from the beginning that it was all a farce on the part of the Wadelai
force. It was clear that the Pasha had lost his hold over the people —
neither officers, soldiers, nor servants were ready to follow him ; but we
could not refute the Pasha's arguments, nor could we deny that he had
reason for his stout, unwavering faith in them when he would reply, " I
know my people ; for thirteen years I have been with them, and I believe
that when I leave all will follow me." When the rebels' letters came
announcing their intention to follow their Governor, he exclaimed, " You
see; I told you so." But now the Pasha said, " Never mind, I am some-
thing of a traveller myself I can do with two servants quite as well as
with fifty. I do not think I should be drawn into this matter at all, having
formed my own plans some time before ; but it intensified ray feelings
greatly when I was told that, after waiting forty-four days, building their
camps for them, and carrying nearly 1,400 loads for them up that high
plateau wall, only few out of the entire number would follow us."

But on the day after I was informed that there had been an alarm in
my camp the night before — the Zanzibari quarters had been entered by
the Pasha's people, and an attempt made to abstract the rifles. This it
was which urged me to immediate action. I knew there had been con-
spiracies in the camp, that the malcontents were increasing, that we had
many rebels at heart amongst us, that the people dreaded the march more
than they feared the natives ; but I scarcely believed that they would dare
put into practice their disloyal ideas in my camp. I proceeded to the
Pasha to consult with him, but the Pasha would consent to no proposi-
tion ; not but that they appeared necessary and good, but he could not,
owing to the want of time, etc., etc. Yet the Pasha the evening before
had received a post from Wadelai which brought him terrible tales of dis-
order, distress, and helplessness among Selim Bey and his faction, and the

ft:

1." I'

V j

t r

'DO

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

rebels and their adherents. I accordingly informed him that I proposed
to act immediately, and would ascertain for myself what this hidden dan-
ger in the camp was ; and as a first step I would be obliged if the Pasha
would signal for a general muster of the principal Egyptians in the square
of the camp.

A Compulsory Muster and Start.

THe summons being sounded, and not attended quicky enough to satisfy
mc, half a company of Zanzibaris were detailed to take sticks and rout
everyone fs om their huts. Dismayed by these energetic measures, they
poured into the square, which was surrounded by rifles. On.beingqucs-
' tioncd, they denied all knowledge of any plot to steal the rifles from us,
or to fight, or to withstand in any manner any order. It was then pro-
posed that those who desired to accompany us to Zanzibar should step
on one side. They all hastened to one side except two of the Pasha's
servants. The rest of the Pasha's people, having paid no attention to the
summons, were secured in their huts and brought to the camp square,
where some were flogged and others ironed and put under guard. " Now,
Pasha," I said, " will you be good enough to tell these Arabs that these
rebellious tricks of Wadelai and Dufile must cease here, for at the first
move made by them I shall be obliged to exterminate them utterly ? "
On the Pasha translating the Arabs bowed, and vowed that they would
obey their father religiously. At the muster this curious result was
returned : There were with us 134 men, 84 married women, 187 female
domestics, 74 children above two years, 35 infants in arms, making a total
of 514. I have reason to believe that the number was nearer 600, as many
were not reported from a fear, probably, that some would be taken pris-
oners.

On the loth of April we set out from KavalHs, .in number about 1,500
for 350 native carriers had been enrolled from the district to assist in
carrying the baggage of the Pasha's people, whose ideas as to what was
essential for the march were very crude.

An Execution.

On the I ith we camped at Masambonis, but in the night I was struck
down with a severe illness, which well nigh proved mortal. It detained
us at the camp twenty-eight days, which if Selim Bey and his party were
really serious in their intention to withdraw from Africa was most fortun-
ate for them, since it increased their allowance to seventy-two days. But
in all this interval, only Shukri Aga, the chief at Mswa Station, ap'
peared. He had started with twelve soldiers, but one by one disap-
peared, until he had only his trumpeter and one servant. A few days

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

791

proposed
iden dan-
tlie Pasha
he square

ti to satisfy
; and rout
iures, they
eing ques-
ts from us,
5 then pro-
hould step
he Pasha's
lition to the
,mp square,
,rd. "Now,
that these
at the first
1 utterly?"
they would
result was
187 female
iking a total
00, as many
taken pris-

about 1,500
to assist in
what was

was struck
I It detained

party were
Inostfortun-

days. But
IStation, ap-

one disap-
few days

after the trumpeter abscondea. Thus only one servant was left out of
a garrison of sixty men, who were reported to be the faithfuUest of the
faithful.

During my illness another conspiracy or rather several were afloat, but
one only was attempted to be lealized, and the ringleader, a slave of
Awash Kffendi's, whom I had madefreeatKavallis was arrested, and, after
court-martial, which found him guilty, was immediately executed. Thus
I have summarized the events attending the withdrawal of the Pasha
and his Egyptians from the neighborhood of the Albert Nyanza. I
ought to mention, however, that throughsomeerror of the native couriers
employed by the Egyptians wich us, a packet of letters was intercepted
which threw a new light upon the character of the people whom we were
to escort to the sea coast at Zanzibar. In a letter written by Ibrahim
EfTendi Elham, an Egyptian captain, to Selim Bey at Wadelai, were
found — " I beseech you to hurry up your soldiers. If you send only
fifty at once we can manage to delay the march easily enough ; and if
you can come with your people soon after we may obtain all we need."
Ibrahim Effendi Elham was in our camp, and we may imagine that he
only wrote what was determined upon by himself and fellow-officers
should Selim Bey arrive in time to assist them in carrying out the plot

The Perilous March.

On the 8th of May the march was resumed, but in the evening the
last communication from Selim Bey was received. It began in a very
insolent style — such as : " What do you mean by making the Egyptian
officers carry loads on their heads and shoulders ? What do you mean
by making the soldiers beasts of burden ? What do you mean by " etc.,
etc., all of which were purely mytnical charges. The letter ended by abject
entreaties that we should extend the time a little more, with protestations
that if we did not listen to their prayers they were doomed, as they had
but little ammunition left, and then concluding with the most important
intelligence of all, proving our judgment of the whole number to be
sound. The letter announced that the ten rebel officers and their adher-
ents had one night broken into the store-houses at Wadelai, had possessed
themselves of all the reserve ammunition and other stores, and had de-
parted for Makkaraka, leaving their dupe, Selim Bey, to be at last sensi-
ble that he had been an egregious fool, and that he had disobeyed the
Pasha's orders and disregarded his urgent entreaties, for the sake of in-
grates like these, who had thrust him into a deep pit out of which there
was no rescue unless we of course should wait for him. A reply was
sent to him for the last time that if he were serious in wishing to accom-

I 1

792

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

pany os, we should proceed forward at a slow rate, halting 24 days on
the route, by which he would easily overtake us with his 200 soldiers.
This was the last we heard of him.

The route I had adopted was one which skirted the Balegga moun-
tains at a distance of 4c mHes or thereabouts from the Nyanza. The
first day was a fairish path, but the three following days tried our Egyp-
tians sorely, because of tho ups and downs and the brakes of cane-grass.
On arriving at the so"thern end of these mountains we were made aware
that our march was not to be uninterrupted, for the King of Unyoro had
made a bold push, and had annexed a respectable extent of country on
the left side of the Semliki River, .vhich embraced all the open grass
land between the Semliki River and the forest region. Thus, without
making an immense detour throvgh the forest, which \Could have been
fatal to most of .he Egyptians, we had no option but to press on, despite
Kabrega and his Warasura. This latter name is given to the Wan-
yoro by all natives who have come in contact with them. The first
day's encounter was decidedly in our favor, and the effect of it cleared
the territory as far as the Semliki River free of the Wanyoro.

Meantime, we had become aware that we v/ere on the threshold of a
region whicn promised to be very interesting, for daily as we advanced
to the southward, the great snowy range, which had so suddenly arrested
our attention and excited ou; intense interest (in May i, 1888), grew
larger and bolder into view. It extended a long distance to the south-
west, which would inevitably tjke us some distance off our course unless
a pass could be discovered to shorten the distance to the countries south.
At Buhoho, where we had the skirmish with Kabrega raiders^ we stood
on the summit of the hilly range which bounds theSemhki Valley on its
north-west and south-west sides. On the oppositv=; side rose Ruwenzori,
the snow mountain, and its enormous eastern flank, which dipped down
gradually until it fell into the level, and was seemingly joined with the
tableland of Unyoro. The humpty western flank dipped down suddenly,
as it seemed to us, into lands that we knew not by name as yet.

Between these opposing barriers spread the Seiuiiki Valley, so like a
lake at its eastern extremity that one of our officers exclaimed that it
was the lake, and the female followers of the Egyptians set up a shrill
lululus, on seeing., their own lake, the Albert Myanza again. With the
naked eye it did appear like the lake, but a hcld-glass revealed that it
was a level grassy plain, white with the ripeness of its grass. Those who
have read Sir Samuel Baker's " Albert Nyanza" will remember the pas-
sage wherein he states that to the south-west the Nyanza stretches

-..'■'t

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

793

days on
soldiers.

a moun-

za. The

ar Egyp-

ne-grass.

ide aware

lyoro had

ountry on

pen grass

i, without

liave been

)n, despite

the Wan-
The first
it cleared

jshold of a
p advanced
\y arrested
888), grew
;he south-
urse unless
tries south.
;, we stood
illey on its
uwenzori,
iped down
d with the
suddenly,

r, so like a
led that it
I up a shrill
With the
3led that it
["hose who
;r the pas-
stretches

" inimitably." He might be well in error at such a distance, when our
own people, with the plain scarcely four miles away, mistook the plain
for the Nyanza. As the plain recedes south-westerly the bushes become
thicker — finally acacias appear in their forests, and beyond these again
the dead black thickness of an impenetrable tropical forest; but the plain
as far as the eye could command continued to lie ten to twelve miles
wide between these mountain barriers, and through the centre of it —
sometimes inclining towards the south-east mountains, sometimes to the
south-western range — the Semliki River pours its waters towards the
Albert Nyanza.

In two marches from Buhoho we stooa upon its banks, and alas ! for
Mason Bey and Gessi Pasha had they but halted th..ir steamers for half
an hour to examine this river — they would have seen sufficient to excite
much geographical interest. For the river is a powerful stream from 80
to 100 yards wide, averaging nine feet depth from side to «?ide, and hav-
ing a current from 3^ knots to 4 knots per hour. In size it is about
equal to two-thirds of the Victoria Nile. As we were crossing this river
the Warasura attacked us from the rear with a well directed volley, but
fortunately the distance was too great. They were chased for some
miles, but fleet as greyhounds they fled, so there were no casualties to
report on either side. We entered the Awamba country on the eastern
shore of the Semliki, and our marches for several days afterwards were
through plantain plantations, which flourished in the clearings made in
this truly African forest. Finally we struck the open country again im-
mediately under Ruwenzori itself.

A Great Snowy Range.

Much, however, as we had flattered ourselves that we should see some
marvellous scenery, the Snow Mountain was very coy and hard to see.
On most days it loomed impending over us like a tropical storm cloud
ready to dissolve in rain and ruin on us. Near sunset a peak or two here,
a crest there, a ridge beyond, white with snow, shot into view — jagged
clouds whirling and eddying around them, and then the darkness of
night. Often at simrise, too, Ruwenzori would appear, fresh, clear,
brightly pure, profound blue voids above ^md around it. Every line arid
dent, knoll and turret-like crag deeply mi rked and deary visible ; but
presently all would be buried under mass upon r^ass of mist until the
immense mountain was no more visible than if we were thousands of
miles away. And then also, the snow mountain being set deeply in the
range, the nearer we approached the base of the range the less we saw of
it, for higher ridges 6btruded themselves and barrf a the view. Still we

794

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

have obtained three remarkable views, one from the Nyanza Plain,
another from Kavalli, and a third from the South Point.

In altitudes above the sea I should estimate it to be between 18,000
and 19,000 feet. We cannot trust our triangulations, for the angles arc
too small. When we were in position to ascertain it correctly the
inconstant mountain gathered his cloudy blankets around him and hid
himself from view, but a clear view from the loftiest summit down to the
lowest reach of snow obtained from a place called Karimi makes me
confident that the height is between the figures stated above. It took
us 19 marches to reach the south-west angle of the range, the Semliki
Valley being below us on our right, and which if the tedious mist had
permitted vvould have beeii exposed in every detail. That part of the
valley traversed by us is generally known under the name of Awamba,
while the habitable portion of the range is principally denominated
Ukonju. The huts of these natives, the Bakonju, are seen as high as
8,000 feet above the sea.

Climbing^ the AfMcan Alps.

Almost all our officers had at one time a keen desire to distinguish
themselves as the climbers of these African Alps, but unfortunately they
were in a very unfit state for such a work. The Pasha only managed to
get 1,000 feet higher than our camp; but Lieutenant Stairs reached the
height of 10,077 feet above the sea, but had the mortification to find two
deep gulfs between him and the Snowy Mount proper. He brought,
however, a good collection of plants, among which were giant heather,
blackberries, and bilberries. The Pasha was in his element among these
plants, and has classified them. The first day we had disentangled our-
selves of the forest proper and its outskirts of straggling bush, we looked
down from the grassy shelf below Ruwenzori range, and saw a grassy
plain, level seemingly as a bowling green — the very duplicate of that
which is seen at the extremity of the Albert Nyanza — extending
southerly from the forests of the Semliki Valley.

We then knew that we were not far from the Southern Lake dis-
covered by me in 1877. Under guidance of the Wakonju, I sent Lieut.
Stairs to examine the river said to flow from the Southern Nyanza. He
returned next day, reporting it to be the Semliki River narrowed down
to a stream forty-two yards wide and ten feet deep, flowing, as the canoe-
men on its banks said, to the Nyanza Utuku or Nyanza of Unyoro, the
Albert Nyanza. Besides native reports he had other corroborative evi-
dence to prove it to be the Semliki. On the second march from the con-
fines of Awavela we entered Usongora, a grassy region as opposite in

STANLEY'S TRIUMPH.

795

ill

nza

Plain.

:en 18,000
angles are
rrectly the
m and hid
lown to the
makes me
e. It took
the Semliki
IS mist had
part of the
of Awamba,
denominated
n as high as

o distinguish
•tunately they
J managed to
i reached the
,n to find two
He brought,
iant heather,
among these
itangled our-
sh, we looked
saw a grassy
ilicate of that
;a— extending

liern Lake dis-
I sent Lieut.
Nyanza. He
arrowed down
k as the canoe-
If Unyoro, the
}oborative evi-
. from the con-
las opposite in

appearance from the perpetual spring of Ukonju as a draughty land
could well be. This country bounds the Southern Nyanza on its
northern and northwestern sidco

A Wonderful Salt Lake.
Three days later, while driving the Warasura before us — or, rather, as
they were self-driven by their own fears — we entered soon after its evac-
uation the important town of Kative, the headquarters of the raiders. It
is situated between an arm of the Southern Nyanza and a Salt Lajce
about two miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide, which consists
of pure brine of a pinky color, and deposits salt in solid cakes of salt
crystals. This was the property of the VVasongora, but the value of its
possession has attracted the cupidity of Kabrega, who reaps a considera-
ble revenue from it. Toro, Aukori Mpororo Ruanda, Ukonju, and many
other countries demand the salt for consumption, and the fortunate pos-
sessor of this inexhaustible treasure of salt reaps all that is desirable of
property in Africa in exchange with no more trouble than the defence of
it. Our road from Kative lay E. and N. E. to round the bay-like exten-
sion of the Nyanza, lying between Usongora and Unyanpaka, and it
happened to be the same taken by the main body of the Warasura in
their hasty retreat from the Salt Lake. On entering Uhaiyana, which is
to the south of Toro, and in the Uplands we had passed the northern
head of the Nyanza, or Beatrice Gulf, arid the route of the south was
open, not, however, without another encounter with the Warasura.

A few days later we entered Unyanpaka, which I had visited in Jan-
uary, 1876. Ringi, the king, declined to enter into the cause of Unyoro,
and allowed us to feed on his bananas unquestioned. After following
the lake shore until it turned too far to the south-west, we struck for the
lofty uplands of Aukori, by the natives of whom we were well received
— preceded as we had been by the reports of our good deeds in relieving
the Salt Lake of the presence of the universally obnoxious Warasura.
If you draw a straight line from the Nyanza to the Uzinga shores of the
Victoria Lake it would represent pretty fairly our course through Aukori,
Karagvve and Uhaiya to Uzinga. Aukori was open to us, because we
had driven the Wanyoro from the Salt Lake. The story was an
open sesame ; there also existed a wholesome fear of an expedition which*
had done that which all the power of Aukori could not have done.
Karagwe was open to us because free trade is the policy of the Wan-
yambu, and because the Waganda were too much engrossed with
their civil war to interfere with our passage. Uhaiya admitted our
entrance without cavil out of respect to our numbers, and because wc

■w

;'.'

'!!•

79«

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

were well introduced by the Wanyambu, and the Wakwiya guided us in
like manner to be welcomed by the Wazinja.

Sufferings From Fever.

Nothing happened during the long journey from the Albert Lake to
cause us any regret that we had taken this straight course, but we have
suffered from an unprecedented number of fevers. We have had as many
as 1 50 cases in one day. Aukori is so beswept with cold winds that the
Expedition wilted under them. Seasoned veterans like the Pasha and
Captain Casati were prostrated time after time, and both were reduced to
excessive weakness like ourselve*?. Our blacks, regardless of their tribes,
tumbled headlong into the long grass to sleep their fever fits off. Some,
after a short illness, died; the daily fatigues of the march, an ulcer, a
fit of fever, a touch of bowel complaint caused the Egyptians to bide in
any cover along the route, and being unperceived by the rear-guard of
the expedition, were left to the doubtful treatment of natives, of whose
language they were utterly ignorant. In the month of July we lost 141
of their number in this manner. ,

Out of respect to the first British Prince who has shown an interest in
African geography, we have named the Southern Nyanza — to distin-
guish it from the other two Nyanzas, the Albert Edward Nyanza, It is
not a very large lake. Compared to the Victoria, the Tanganyika, and
the Nyassa, it is small, but its importance and interest lies in the fact
that it is the receiver of all the streams at the extremity of the south-
western or left Nile basins, and discharges these waters by one river, the
Semliki, into the Albert Nyanza, in like manner as Lake Victoria receives
all streams from the extremity of the south-eastern or right Nile basin,
and pours these waters by the Victoria Nile into the Albert Nyanza.
These two Niles, amalgamating in Lake Albert, leave this under the well-
known name of White Nile.

Your obedient servant/

Henry M. Stanley.

guided us in

bert Lake to
!, but we have
E had as many
winds that the
:he Pasha and
ere reduced to
of their tribes,
fits off. Some,
ch, an ulcer, a
ians to bide in
: rear-guard of
itives, of whose
uly we lost 141

m an interest in
mza — to distin-
Nyanza, It is
anganyika, and
lies in the fact
y of the south-
»y one river, the
ictoria receives
[ght Nile basin,
Albert Nyanza.
under the well-

M. Stanley.

CHAPTER XXXIX.
BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY.

Th-fc World He.irsthe News — Stanley and Emin Pasha Arrive at Mpwapwa— Newspa-
pers Aglow With the Intelligence— Intense Interest of All Civilized People — Unfor-
tunate Report of Emin's Death— General Rejoicings on Account of Eniin's Safety —
The New York //cra/d ResoUes to Senda Relief Expedition-Captain Wissmann's
Dispatch From Zanzibar— The Gorman Government Rendering Every Possible
Assistance -Stanley's Thrilhng Narrative— Incidents of the Homeward March—
"fhe Explorer in Perfect Health— Stanley's Summons to Conduct the Expedi-
tion—" Twenty Various Little Commissions "—A Hero Who Shirked No Task —
Great Geographical Discoveries— The Aruwimi Explored from its Source to Its
Bourne — The Immense Congo Forest — "Cloud King" Wrapped in Eternal
Snow— Connection Between Two Great Lakes — Trav.'rsing Ranges of Moun-
tains—Under the Burning Equator— Fed on Blackberri'js — Six Thousand Square
Miles of Water Added to Victoria Nyanza -Animals, Birds, and Plants — New
Stores of Knowledge — The Hand of a Divinity — Events as 1 hey Occurred — Suf-
ferings and Losses— " Horrible Forms of Men Smitten with Disease"— Sickening
Sights— Death of a White Man— Emin Pasha ind Jtphson Threatened with In-
stant Death— Prisoners in the Hands of the M ihdists— Jephson's Letters- Stan-
ley's Faith in the Purity of His Own Motives — Cv.ided By a Higher Power — Ter-
rible Hardships of the March — "Agonies of Fierce Fevers" — What Vulgar People
Call Luck — Strange Things in Heaven and Ear'h— A Summary of Bravery— Un-
complaining Heroism of Dark Explorers- Incentives to Duty — Stanley's Letter
to the Bn»ish Consul at Zanzibar — Number of Persons Brou .;ht Out of Central
Africa — Fifty-nine Infant Travellers — Eighteen of the Pasha's Pt r!e Lost— Bur-
deii' Increasing with Each Advance— Carrying the Helpless One Thousand Miles —
Foi'v Days' Fighting— Prejudice Against the Pasha Among the Natives — Talking
of No Use— Val'.iable Discovery — Large Extension of a Lake - Mountainous
islands— CompVt'jness of Stanley's Story— Review of the Expedition— Magnifi-
cent Results—Immortal Fame of the Great Hero.

N the 4th of December, 1889, the world rang with the news that
Stanley and Emin Pasha, attended by several hundred others
wHd had left Central Africa, had arrived on the East coast.
This intelligence was hailed with every demonstration of
delight, ai'.rJ. the newspaper press throughout all civilized nations re-
corded the fact that the great explorer had at last accomplished, his
task.

Previous to this, on November 2ist, the Emin Relief Committee in
Berlin had received the welcome intelligence of Mr. Stanley's arrival at
Mpwapwa, in the territories of the German East African Protectorate.
The intelligence of the intrepid Pasha's safety was hailed with greater

tis If;

11^

798

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

relief for the reason that, owing to an unfortunate telegraphic error, it
was at first believed that he had perished. The dismay caused by this
mistake was naturally great, especially as the Emperor was reported to
have had confirmation of the sad news from the Imperial Commission.
His Mai'^sty was said to have at once communicated with the Relief
Committee and to have evinced the deepest emotion. It seemed doubly
tragic that t?ie courageous Governor of the Equatorial Province should
have perished, after all his wanderings and dangers, when almost within
sight of home and on the borders of German territory. Happily the
mistake was soon discovered, and served only to enhance the general
rejoicing over the Pasha's safety.

The New York Herald^ with that generous spirit of enterprise which
has always characterized it, resolved to meet the returning explorer with
a relief expedition. Under date of November I Ith, it published the fol'
lo'.v'ing dispatch from its correspondent at Zanzibar :

Zanzibar, Nov. io, 1889. — Captain Wissmann has sent me word that!
can go up country with my expediti' «n to meet Mr. Stanley, and carry
him supplies of tea, quinine, tobacco and other necessaries. Captain
Wissmann will give me an escort in addition to my own men, but he says
that I must fly the German flag. Captain Wissmann comes here from the
coast to-night. The German government asked him yesterday to give
me every assistance.

, Stanley's Thrilling" Narrative.

The Herald published the following letter which describes the later
incidents of the extraordinary march.

Mr. Stanley says : First of all, I am in perfect health and feel like a
laborer of a Saturday evening returning home with his week's work
done, his week's wages in his pocket, and glad that to-morrow is the
Sabbath.

Just about three years ago, while lecturing in New England, a mes-
sage came from under the sea bidding me to hasten and take a commis-
sion to relieve Emin Pasha at Wadelai ; but, as people generally do with
faithful pack horses, numbers of little trifles, odds and ends, are piled on
over and above the proper burden. Twentj' various little commission^)
were added to the principal one, each requiring due care and thought.
Well, looking back over what has been accomplished, I see no reason
for any heart's discontent. We can say we shirked no task and that
good will, aided by steady effort, enabled us to complete every little job
as vvell as circumstances permitted.

Over and above the happy ending of our appointed dutie" we have

C-

BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY S JOURNEY.

799

; error, it
td by this
ported to
mniission.
the Relief
ed doubly
ice should
ost within
[appily the
;he general

irise which
plorer with
bed the foU

not been unfortunate in geographical discoveries. The Aruwimi is now
known from its source to its bourne. The great Congo forest, covf-rjng
as large an area as France and the Iberian Peninsula, we can now certify
to be an absolute fact. The Mountains of the Moon this time, beyond
the least doubt, have been located, and Ruwenzori, " The Cloud King."
robed in eternal snow, has been seen and its flanks explored and some of
its shoulders ascended, Mounts Gordon Bennett and Mackinnon Cones
being but giant sentries warding off the approach of the inner area of
" The Cloud King."'

On the southeast of the range, the connection between Albert Edward
Nyanza and the Albtrt Nyanza has been discovered and the extent of
the former lake is now known for the first time. Range after range of
mountains has been traversed, separated by such tracts of pasture land
as would make your cowboys out West mad with envy. And right
under the burning equator we have fed on blackberries and bilber-
ries and quenched our thirst with crystal water fresh from snow beds.
We have also been able to add nearly 6,000 square miles of water to
Victoria Nyanza.

Our naturalist will expatiate upon the new species of animals, birds
and plants he has discovered. Our surgeon will tell what he knows of
the climate and its amenities. It will take us all we knoiv how to say
what new .store of knowledge has been gathered from this unexpected
field of discoveries. I always suspected that in the central regions
between the equatorial lakes .something worth seeing would be found,
but I was not prepared for such a harvest of new facts.

The Hand of a Divinity.

This has certainly been the most extraordinary expedition I have ever
led into Africa. A regular divinity seems to have hedged us while we
journeyed. I say it with all reverence. It has impelled us whither it
would, effected its own will, but nevertheless guided us and protected us.

What can you make of this, for instance? On August 17, 1887, all
the oflficers of the rear column are united at Yambuya. They have my
letter of instructions before them, but instead of preparing for the mor-
row's march, to follow our track, they decide to wait at Yambuya, which
decision initiates the most awful season any community of men ever
endured in Africa or elsewhere.

The results are that three-quarters of their force die of slow poison.
Their commander is murdered and the second officer dies soon after of
sickness and grief. Another oflficer is wasted to a skeleton and obliged
to return home, A fourth is sent to wander aimlessly up and down the

■Hi

<V:

800

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Congo and the survivor is found in such a fearful pest hole that we dare
not describe its horrors.

Upon the same date, 150 miles away, the officer of the day leads 333
men of the advanced column into the bush, loses the path and all con-
sciousness of his whereabouts, and every step he takes only leads him
further astray. His people become frantic ; his white companions, vexfd
and irritated by the sense of the evil around theni, cannot devise any
expedient to relieve him. Thev are surrounded by cannibals and poison
tipped arrows thin their numbers. ,

More Suiferin{*-8 and Losses.

Meantime I, in command of the river column, am anxiously searching
up and dowrf the river in four diff*erei.t directions ; through forests my
scouts are seeking for them, but not until ihe sixth day was I successful
in finding them.

Taking the same month and the same date in 1888, a year later, on
August 17th, I listen, horror-struck, to the tale of the last surviving offi-
cer of the rear column at Banalya and am told of nothing but death and
disaster, disaster and death, death and disaster. I see nothing but hor-
rible forms of men smitten with disease, bloated, disfigured and scarred,
while the scene in the camp, infamous for the murder of poor Bdrttelot
four weeks before, is simply sickening.

On the same day, 600 miles west of this camp, Jameson, worn out
with fatigue, sickness and sorrow, breathes his last. On the next day,
August 18th, 600 miles ast, Emin Pasha and my officer Jephson, are
suddenly surrounded by infuriated rebels who menace them with loaded
riflss and instant death, but fortunately they relent and only make them
prisoners, to be delivered to the Madhists.

£min*s Peril.

Having saved Bonny out of the jaws of death we arrived a second
time at Albert Nyanza, to find Emin Pasha and Jephson prisoners in daily
expectation of their doom.

Jephson's own letters fully describe his anxiety. Not until both were
in my camp and the Egyptian fugitives under our protection did I begin
to see that I was only carrying out a higher plan than mine. My own
designs were constantly frustrated by unhappy circumstances. I en^
doavored to steer my course as direct as possible, but there was an un-
accountable influence at the helm.

I gave as much good will to my duties as the strictest honor would com-
pel. My faith that the purity of my motive deserved success was first, but
I have been conscious that thj issues of every effort were in other hands.

BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY S JOURNEY.

801

Not one officer who was with me will forget the miseries he has en-
dured, yet every one that started from his home destined to march with
the advance column and share its wonderful adventures is here to-day
safe, sound and well. This is not due to me. Lieutenant Stain was
pierced with a poisoned arrow like others, but others died and he lives.
The poisoned tip came out from under his heart eighteen, months after
he was pierced. Jephson was four months a prisoner, with guards with
loaded rifles around him. That they did not murder him is not due to me.

Hardships of the March.

These officers have had to wade through as many as seventeen streams
and broad expanses of mud and swamp in a iay. They have endured a
sun that scorched v/hatever it touched. A multitude of impediments have
ruffled their tempers and harassed their hours.

They have been maddened with the agonies of fierce fevers ; they have
lived for months in an atmosphere that medical authority declared to
be deadly. They have faced dangers e\'ery day, and their diet has been
all through what legal serfs would have declared to be infamous and
abominable, and yet they live.

This in not due to me any more than the courage with which they
have borne all that was imposed upon them by their surroundings or the
cheery energy which they bestowed to their work, or the hopeful voices
which rang in the ears of a deafening multitude of blacks, and urged the
poor souls on to their goal.

The vulgar will call it luck. Unbelievers will call it chance, but deep
down in each heart remains the feeling that, of verity, there are more
things in heaven and earth than are dreamed of in common philosophy.

A Summary of Bravery.

I must be brief Numbers of scenes crowd the memory. Could one
but sum them into a picture it would have a great interest. The uncom-
plaining heroism of our dark followers, the brave manhood latent in such
uncouth disguise, th-: tenderness we have seen issuing from nameless en-
tities, great love animating the ignoble, the sacrifice made by the unfor-
turate for one more unfortunate, the reverence we have noted in barba-
rians, who, even as ourselves, were inspired with nobleness and incen-
tives to duty, of all these we could speak if we would, but I leave that to
the //ir^'^/t/ correspondent who, if he has eyes to see, will see much for
himself, and who with his gifts of composition, may present a very taking
outline of what has been done, and is now near ending, thanks be to God
forever and ever. Yours faitlifuUy,

Henry M. Stanley.
51

■i ..

ji'

802

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

The following letter from Mr. Stanley relates the additional incidents
of his ho;neward march. It was sent to Mr, Smith, Acting British
Consul at Zanzibar.

German Station, Mpwapwa, November ii, 1889.

Dear Sir: — We arrived here yesterday on the fifty-fifth day from
Victoria Nyanza and the i88th day from the Albert Nyanza. Wc
number altogether about 750 souls. At the last muster, three da/s ago,
Emin Pasha's people numbered 294, of whom 59 are children, mostly
orphans of Egyptian officers. The whites with me are Lieutenant Stairs,
Captain Nelson, Mounteney Jephson, Surgeon Parke, William Bonny,
Mr. Hoffman, Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, Signor Marco and a Tunisian,
Vitu Hassan, and an apothecary. We have also Peres Girault and
Schinze, of the Algerian mission. Among the principal officers of the
Pasha are the Vakeers, of the Equatorial Province, and Major Awash
Effendi, of the second battalion!

Since leaving Victoria Nyanza we have lost eighteen of the Pasha's
people and one native of Zanzibar, who was killed while we were parley-
ing with hostile people. Every other expedition I have led has seen the
lightening of our labors as we drew near the sea, but I cannot say the
same of this one. Our long string of hammock bearers tells a different
tale, and until we place these poor things on shipboard there will be no
rest for us. The worst of it is we have not the privilege of showing at
Zanzibar the full extent of our labors. After carrying the helpless
1,000 mil6s, fighting to the right and left of the sick, driving Warasura
from their prey, over range and range of mountains, with every energy
on the full strain, they slip through our hands and die in their hammocks.
One lady, seventy-five years of age, the old mother of the Valkiel, died
in this manner in North Msukuma, south of Victoria Nyanza.

Four Days* Fighting-.

We had as stirring a time for four days as we had anywhere. For
those four days we had contir.uous fighting during the greater part of
daylight hours. The foolish natives took an unaccountable prejudice to
the Pasha's people. They insisted that they were cannibals and had
come to their country for no good. Talking to them was of no use.
Any attempt at disproval drove them into white hot rage, and in their
mad flinging themselves on us they suffered.

I am advised that the route to the sea via Simba and Mwene is the
best for one thing that specially appears desirable to me — an abundance
of food. I propose to adopt that line. As regards the danger of an
attack, this road seems to me to be as bad as another.

BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY.

803

icidenta
British

1889.
ay froru
iza. Wc
ia> £ ago,
1, mostly
LHt Stairs,
n Bonny,
Tunisian,
rault and
;rs of the
jor Awash

he Pasha's
ere parley-
las seen the
,not say the
a different
will be no
showing at
le helpless
Warasura
ery energy
hammocks,
alkiel, died

vhere. For

ater part of

Iprejudice to

Ills and had

of no use.

md in their

Iwene is the
abundance

langer of an

We have made the unexpected discovery, of real value in Africa, ot
a considerable extension of the Victoria Nyanza to the southwest. The
utmost southerly reach of this extension is south latitude 2° 48', which
brings the Victoria Sea within 155 miles only from Lake Tanganyika.

I was so certain in my mind that this fact was known through the
many voyages of the Church Missionary Society to Uganda, that I do
not feel particularly moved by it. Mackay, however, showed me the
latest maps published by the society, and I saw that not one had even a
suspicion of it. On the road here I made a rough sketch of it, and I
find that the area of the great lake is now increased by this discovery to
26,900 square miles, which is just about 1,900 square miles larger than
the reputed exaggerations of Captain Speke. ^

If you will glance at a map of the lake toward the southwest you will
find that the coau line runs about northwest and east-southeast; but
this coast line so drawn consists mainly of a %eries of large and moun-
tainous islands, many of them well peopled, which overlap one another.
South of these islands is a large body of water, just discovered Lake
Uriji, also which Captain Speke so slightly sketched. It turns out to be
a very respectable lake, with populated islands in it.

I hope that we shall meet before long.
• • I beg to remain your obedient servant,

Henky M. Stanley.

These reports from Mr. Stanley, containing the history of his journey,
give a dramatic completeness to the story of his expedition. He has
rescued Emin Pasha just when he stood in the sorest need of rescue. In
the interval between his first and second meetings with Kniin the latter's
feeble dominion crumbled to pieces under the assaults of the Madhists.
Emin's demoralized army was in full revolt, and Mr. Stanley, who was
hastening back to the appointed rendezvous for the final operation of
rescue, learned that there was no time to lose. Emin and Jephson had
been prisoners for five months. Mr. Stanley pushed forward, waited
for nearly a month to gather up all the fugitives, and then left the Albert
Nyanza homeward bound. We have heard nothing so full nor so direct
from him since the interesting letters published in April, 1889, in which he
announced that he was setting forth on the final expedition towards
E:nm, of which we now know the triumphant result. These letters, writ-
ten in August, 1888, broke the silence of fourteen months. Stanley had
been lost to the world from June, 1S87. He was again to be lost until'
the date of his very welcome message — despatched, of course, in advance
by messengers to Zanzibar, and thence telegraphed tc this country.

804

V/ONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

He met Emin for the first time in April, 1888, after struggling through
the almost impenetrable forest described with such vivid force in his
letters. He found Emin unwilling to return with him, but he left him to
reconsider his determination while he went back towards the Aruwimi to
look after his rear guard and to gather up his own supplies. He reached
the station only to receive news of the direst disaster — the murder of
Major Barttclot, the abandonment of the station — and the day after he
received the nsws, though he was of course unaware of it at the time,
Emin Pasha, at the other extremity of the line, fell into the power of the
Mahdists. Stanley set out to join Emin without any knowledge,
though perhaps not without some apprehension of the catastrophe,
buii he showed such diligence in his march that he was in time to act
' with decisive energy. The event crowns his wonderful enterprise in a
becoming manner, and it will have an effect which everyone must have
thought impossible — in abiding even to his reputation for courage, for
perseverance, and indomitable will. The rescue of Emin Pasha is glory
enough for Stanley, and the world applauds his brilliant success.

Emiu*8 Love for His People.

Emin took a prodigious time to make up his mind, and no wonder.
He was stiil hoping against hope that he might recover his old authority
and go on with his life work, the civilizing of the Equatorial ProvincJe,
and with that of the whole Soudan. His was not the vacillation of the
man who cannot choose between two courses of seemingly equal advant-
age ; it was the reluctance of a devotee to give up what alone seemed to
him to make life worth living. In all this Emin was perfectly consistent
with himself It was no change of purpose at the last moment that made
him cling to Central Africa ; he had always said that he would never
liMve it with his good will. It was not he that asked to be relieved, or,
at any rate, to be relieved in the way suggested by his generous friends
in England. His latest letter, it will be observed, written in the first
flush of his gratitude, acknowledges only an appeal for " assistance for
uiy people." Personally, he wished only to be helped to stay; not to to
helped to retire. There can be little doubt that, with all the chances
against him, he would have preferred to remain — either to win his prov-
ince back again to law and to civilization, or to leave his bones in the waste.

A poet in want of a theme for a tragic soliloquy need ask for nothinij
more suggestive than Emin's reflections on quitting Africa. In the great
venture that led him there for good, he had embart °d his all of genius,
energy, and hope. His devotion to his ^ork led him to change his very
name in order to remove all traces of his F*rankish origin. From Dr.

BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY.

805

Edward Schnitzer he became Emin, or " the Faithful One," and he, in a
manner, forgot his German origin in his perfect sympathy with his new
compatriots. His province was in a frightful state when it came into
his hands as the lieutenant of Gordon and the servant of the Khedive.
In three or four years, he had reduced it to peace, contentment, and
order; banished the slave traders from his borders ; introduced agricul
tare and industry; estabhshed a regular weekly post ; and turned a large
deficit per annum into an immense surplus. When he could no longer
hold it for the Khedive, he held it on his own account. He was in a fair
way to become the Rajah Brooke of Central Africa, the pious founder of
a State. "His whole heart," .says Dr. Felkin, "seemed to be centred in
the welfare of his people and the advancement of science, and no idea of
fame appeared to enter his mind." ^

Courageous to the Last.

When Mr. Stanley found him the second time his glorious experiment ■
had come to an end in unmistakable failure, and he was a prisoner in .
the hands of his revolted troops. Ikit mischances of much the same kind
had happened to him before, and he had survived them all.

His letters abound in stories of war .ind rumors of war, of treachery
and revolt, and of all those accidents which must so largely checker the
lot of a ruler of a semi-barbarous State set in the midst of utter barbar-
ism. It is clear that he had the same h*ope of surviving them this time,
and that Mr. Stanley's arrival presented him with the most painful alter-
native ever submitted to his judgment and his feelings. Before it had
been merely a choice between victory and death. Now there was really
no choice at all, for in gratitude to Mr. Stanley and to those who had
sent him, he was compelled to accept the offer of retreat. No one is to
blame, but one man assuredly is to be pitied, and that is the hero who
has been brought back to unwelcome ease and safety from as glorious a
field as ever tempted the spirit of man.

African Barbarism Doomed.

Stanley's history of his last great expedition is thoroughly character-
istic of the man. It is full of thrilling interest, challenging our admiration
for the writer and awakening a tearful sympathy with th it company of
heroes wh<ise courage overstepped innumerable dangers.

The hardships of this great journey will become a fading memory; it?
successes have already become historic.

The Dark Continent is dark no longer. To Stanley and his undaunted
comrades the world owes a debt of gratitude which it will be diffmlt to
repay. Afiica has at last been opened up to the civilization of the future.

:ilr 1

806

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

Its vast tracts of wilderness will stimulate the enterprise of the pioneer,
and the day is not far distant — within the lifetime of our children's
children, perhaps — when the shrill echo of the engine's whistle will be
heard on the rugged sides of snow-capped mountains which Stanley has
j>:plored; when those illimitable forests will resound with the v, oods-
'"jiian's axe, and when the law of commerce will change the tawny ative
from a savage into a self-respecting citizen. Barbarism will rrtirt from
Its last stronghold on the planet, as the darkness disappears when 1/ e sun
rises over the hilltops. Long life seems a boon when such a mag;^; .ncent
problem is in process of solution. ,

Our ' ?.de' ill Se impressed bj • the strong though underlying relig-
ious tci; : c>f I he history. Stanley has been overmastered by the grandeur
of his ov ^ iciucvement. He declares his belief that a higher power
guided him throUj he perils which encompassed his little army. He
builded better than he knew and better than he "had planned, and attrib-
utes it to the fact that "there is a divinity which shapes our ends, rough
hew them as we will."

The Unseen Power.

This is not an unusual attitude for real greatness to assume. Under
an Egyptian sky Napoleon followed the same train of thoi.ght and
expressed the same conviction. What he fqund himself able to do was
»o much greater than his most ambitious dreams that he willingly
shared the glory of his victories with that unseen Power which made
him a Man of Destiny. So Stanley, hewing his way through hordes of
cannibals, unscathed in score? of pitched battles, defying the most por-
tentous diseases which a tropical climate can foster, accomplishing his
purpose against infinite odds, and at last reaching the seacoast " in per-
fect health," and feeling "like a laborer on a Saturday evening return-
ing home with his week's work done, his week's wages in his pocket
and glad that to-morrow is the Sabbath," brings the history to a close
with the words, " Thanks be to God, forever and ever."

The dire distresses of this long journey of two and a half years, are
beyond the reach of language. He merely hints at some of them and
leaves the rest to the imagination. We ponder his pathetic references to
the sturdy loyalty of companions and followers, " maddened with the
agonies of fierce fevers," falling into their graves through the subtle
poison with which the natives tipped their arrows and spears, bravely
fighting their way through interminable swamps only to succumlj at
last, and the conviction steals over us that such a story has never been
told before and may never be told again.

BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY.

807

pioneer,
liildren's
J will be
nley has
; \. oods-
ly ative
tilt from
a if e sun
i^ni.ncent

ing relig-
grandeur
her power
rmy. He
md attrib-
nds, rough

le. Under
|OKght and
to do was
willingly
lich made
hordes of
most por-
lishing his
t " in per-
ns return-
his pocket
to a close

years, are

them and

[ferences to

with the

the subtle

ars, bravely

luccuml} at

Inever been

The victories of peace are not far distant, and this Dark Continent
will shake itself free from barbarism and start on a career of progress
which will excite the admiration of the world.

For this magnificent prospect we are indebted in part t the intrepid
•:vplorers w!io preceded Stanley, but mostly to Stanley h',rr elf.

Grand Reception to Stanle}'.

On Dacpiaber 5th, 1889, Stanley's party reached the coast, arriving at
Bagamcyo at eleven o'clock in the morning.

Major Wissmann had provided horses for Stanley and Emin, and upon
them they made their triumphal entry into Bagamoyo. The town was
profusely decorated. Verdant arches were bu'lt across all the avenues
and palm branches waved from every window. A salute of nine guns
was fired by Major Wissmann's force ^nd the same number by the Ger-
man man-of-war. All the officers '. t: expedition wera sumptuously
entertained at a luncheon at Major "^'iss nn's headquarters. . >

Emperor William of Germany -^ea greetings. A message of con-
gratulation came from Leopold, ki»i^- 'i* Belgium. Her Majesty, Queen
Victoria, soon forwarded a cord'al nispatch, expressing satisfaction at
Stanley's brilliant success.

At a banquet in the evening Stanley was toasted, and in reply .said he
thanked God he had performed his duty. He spoke with emotion of
his soldiers whose bones were bleaching in the forest, and remarked
that with him and those of his party work was always onward. He
bore testimony to the Divine influence that had guided him in his work.

Emin Pasha's reception was extremely cordial. Unfortunately, owing
to his poor eyesight, he met with a serious accident, and by falling from
a balcony was more severely injured than he had been in all his wan-
derings and conflicts. The world was moved to sympathy for his mis*
fortune and hope for his recovery.

On the 14th of December, 1889, the United States Government, through
OL Secretary of State, sent the following congratulatory message :
" Stanley, Zanzibar ; —

" I am directed by the President of the United States to tender his con-
gratulations to you upon the success which has attended your long tour
f discovery through Africa and upon the advantages which may accrue
therefrom to the civilized world."

From the extraordinary interest taken in Mr. Stanley's explorations
and particularly in his last expedition, it is plain that he is regarded as
something more than a geographical discoverer ; nor can it be said that
his highest mission has consisted in rescuing those who were in peril,

808

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

like Livingstone and Emin Pasha. Stanley's explorations have a broader
and deeper meaning than this. He has done more than any other man
to open the heart of Africa, and to prepare the way for the onward
march of civilization and those Christianizing influences which elevate
nations, which tame savage races, which bring the blessings of education
and refinement. It is only in the light of such results as these — results
which are sure to be realized in the near future — that we can measure the
meaning of Mr. Stanley's achievements in the Dark Continent.

Stanley would be a great hero if he had done nothing more than save
those whose lives were in danger; nothing more than penetrate some of
the mysteries of Africa ; nothing more than cross the continent from
sea to sea. Where one man with his brave band of devoted followers has
gone, civilization will march, and the path which our hero has marked
through the wilderness will become the highway of empire. Great as is
our hero's fame at the present time, it will be greater as the ages go by.
When the wilds of Africa are wild no longer and the immense resources
of that wonderful country have been developed, it will be acknowledged
by all the nations of the globe that one of the chief agencies in this mag-
nificent consummation was the intrepid explorer whose fortunes have
been followed by all civilized nations.

We who read the thrilling narrative ofthe foregoing pages, surrounded
by all the comforts of life, are not really able to take in the situation ; we
do not understand the length, the breadth, the height, the depth of it.
We do not appreciate the imminent perils, the extreme privations, the
agonizing sufferings which have attended the brave men who have sought
the sources of the Nile, and by their daring exploits and heroic deeds
have thrown back the curtains of mystery and have made the Continent
of Africa one mighty object of wonder and interest. It may be ques-
tioned whether Mr. Stanley himself has been able to weigh the value of
his discoveries and the brilliancy of his exploits. Not a general, he was
more than a general ; not a fortune seeker, he has brought a fortune to
the world ; not a conquerer of kingdoms, he has marked the way and
laid out the ground for kingdoms whose glory will be equal to that of
any of the empires famed in history.

It is fitting, therefore, that the dignitaries of the earth, the crowned
heads of Europe and a nation like ours, where all men are crowned,
should preserve the fame, admire the successes, and tell the magnificent
results of Stanley's heroic deeds.

CHAPTER XL.

WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA

Stanley's Arrival at Cairo — Warm Greetings — A Talk with the Explorer — A
Fortune Left Behind — Great Preparations to Welcome Stanley — Banquet
Attended by Distinguished Persons — Stanley's Letter to Mr. Bruce — A
Story that Would ilave Thrilled Livingstone — Two Hundred Thousand
Spears — White Cotton Dresses — An Unexpected Meeting — The King
Finds a Refuge — Mol^ammedan Intrigues — Terrible Slaughter — Christians
in Africa — Stanley has an Opportunity for Adventure — An Imposing Dep-
utation — Christian Converts Mightier than Kings — Students of the Bible
and Prayer Book — A Tough Scotchman — " Peace and Good Will to Men "
— Stanley Sends Greetings and Best Wishes — Stanley's Return Anticipated
in London — Offers for a Prize Poem — An American Girl Wins the Prize —
The Poem Celebrating Stanley's Return — " Back from the Dead."

MR. STANLEY arrived at Cairo January 14, 1890. His com-
ing was the signal for a general stir through all the place,
and people of every nationality, race and color rose up to
give him welcome. The dispatch from Cairo announcing his arrival was
as follows :

" Stanley arrived here at noon to-day, meeting with a great and nota-
ble reception at the station from Sir Evelyn Baring, General Sir Francis
Grenfell, acting United States Consul General Grant and others. He
went to the Khedive's palace in state. He made an official call on him
lasting half an hour, and was decorated with the grand Cordon of the
Medjidieh, a very di.stinguished honor. He was warmly greeted by a
large crowd at the Shepherd's Hotel.

" Stanley looks very well, his bronzed face showing below a white

German cap and above a suit of ' dittoes.' The metnbers of his party

are in excellent health and spirits. He thinks Emln will be here in a

month.

A Talk with the Explorer.

" Stanley gave me a few minutes' conversation to-day. He said the

rumors of his death were due to the non-arrival of letters sent by bands

of picked messengers who were stopped by hostile tribes five days from

(809)

1 .

810

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

where Barttelot was killed. He himself found two parties of his messen-
gers there when on his way to the coast.

"Stanley says that Kniin, with his great influence and tact, would b>'
an invaluable agent at Suakini or Wady Haifa. Hacked with militai
authority, he would pave the way for a better understanding between the
Egyptian government and the native tribes — an excellent nv *hod for
bringing back the Soudanese.

A Fortune Left Behind.

" Emin left seventy-five tons of ivory behind him, Stanley speaks in
the highest terms of his party. He dines with the Khedive on Thurs-
day. King Leopold sent an officer with a letter of congratulation to the
great explorer."

Another dispatch from Cairo, dated January 19, 1890, announced that
great preparations had been made for a banquet to Stanley the next night,
to be given by the Egyptian government. Riaz Pasha was to preside.
Oh the previous night the whole party dined with Sir Evelyn Baring.
Stanley, though quite well, announced that he would not go to Europe
for some time, but would remain in Egypt for rest and to recoup his
strength. Private telegrams reported Emin's progress toward recovery
to be slow but sure.

The welcome to Stanley took place according to the foregoing an-
nouncement, as will be seen by the following :

"Cairo, Jan. 20, 1890. — Riaz Pasha, the Premier, presided at the
banquet in honor of Mr. Stanley. Numerous distinguished Europeans
were present. One of these was Mr. Joseph Chamberlain. In proposing
the health of Mr. Stanley Riaz Pasha eulogized the services of Emin to
the world and to science. In responding Mr. Stanley recounted the main
points of his journey and dwelt upon Emin's vacillation. He said he had
offered to Emin, in case he preferred to stay in Africa, to make him
Governor of another fair province,

" He touched feelingly upon Emin's accident, and thanked the audi-
ence warmly in behalf of himself and his companions for the great honor

accorded to them."

Stanley's Letter to Mr. Bruce.

The latest of Mr. Stanley's fascinating letters to reach us for publication

J is one written to Mr. Alexander L. Bruce, the son-in-law of Livingstone.

It is dated from Ugogo, in October, 1888, and it must have been written

at about the time that Mr. Stanley reached Mpwapwa, and once more

came within the purview of civilization. It gives an encouraging account

of the great progress of Christianity in Central Africa, and it shows that

" r

WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA.

811

ii
)

issen-

\d b"
ilitai
en the
od for

;aks in

Thurs-

to the

ed that
ct night,
preside.
, Baring.
1 Europe
coup his
recovery

;oing an-

Id at the
iuropeans
iroposing
Emin to
the main
lid he had
lake him

the audi-
jat honor

iblication
^ingstone.
;n written
Ince more
account
lows that

Bishop Hannin[j;ton's murderer, Mwanga, has met with his reward. The
persecuted native Christians have been powerful enough, in alliance with
the Mohamn.cdans, to drive him into exile. He had been received in his
flight by the French missionaries, in noble requital of charity and gooc'-
ness Ln the brutality with which he had driven them forth from his
dominions. Me is now waiting for an opportunity of returning to claim
his inheritance, which is held by a nominee of the Mohammedan party,
who soon began to act for themselves when the immediate danger which
dictated their temporary alliance with the Christians had passed away.

Mr. Stanley's point is that ^he native converts are now strong enough
to make a revolution in one of the most powerful of the African kingf-
doms, and that this, if he could have foreseen it, would have delighted
the heart of Livingstone, and would have made him more than ever con-
tent to quit the scene of his lifelong labors. The Chri.stians of Africa, it
is evident, are passing through all the stages which marked the earlier
growth of the faith in Rome — from persecution to an enforced toleration,
and from that to political supremacy. Much may be hoped now that the
butcher Mwanga is a fugitive from his capital, so soon after his butchery
of the moi-t unoffending of men. He had sent forward a party to solicit
the aid of Mr. Stanley in restoring him to his throne. The astute ex-
plorer, borrowing a hint from the statecraft of Uganda, "dissembled"
until he came to a place of safety, and then spoke his mind with becom-
ing freedom on Mwanga and his deeds. One ought, no doubt, to set ihis
ruffian a better example ; but it is impossible to repress a glow of satis-
faction at the thought that he has so soon met with an instalment of his
deserts.

Ugogo, Central Africa, October 15, 1889.

My Dear Mr. Bruce: — I have no idea of sending any couriers ahead
until I reach Mpwapwa, but I write this to lay by ready for the oppor-
tunity. I am about to write to you a true story — such a story as would
have kindled Livingstone, and cause him to say like Simeon, " Now let
Thy servant depart in peace."

We had arrived at a certain point on the shores of the Albert Edward
Xyanza, and we had to decide which of several dangerous routes sea-
ward we should take. To the south lay Kur.iida, a vast kingdom gov-
erned by King Kigiri ; to the south-south-east lay Mpororo with a people
noted for. their daring and ferocity; ;o the east-south' :st rose the
plateau walls of Aukori, a land defended i y 2CK),ooo sptavs. Trending
northerly lay an extent of country which after a few days would take us
to Uganda with its half a million of spears and 2,000 guns. After a

i' 1

1 ««

l(f

812

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

detailed description of each land and its resources, the oflFicers decided
that, as there was not much choice left, the decision should rest with
me.

As the straightest and most direct route lay through Aukori, 1
chose the latter. So far as preparations for hostility — if any were oflered
we were as perfect as it was possible for us to be. The marches were
shortened. The advance halted frequently to enable the rear guard to be
in touch and within sound of the foremost rifles, and most admirably
close order was maintained. At the same time, though every one knew
the importance of being ready at a moment's notice, no one gave any
reason for offence to be taken. That is, we were not defiant. Well, we
arrived within one day's forced march from the King's capital, due west
of it. We were quietly encamped when we were made aware that a
body of superior people had arrived. They wore cotton dresses, spot-
lessly white, and just as well clothed as any of the tidiest natives of
Zanzibar. We were rather surprised, as you may imagine. They were
introduced to us by the King's messengers as the Waganda.

An Unexpected Mectiiigr*

I dare say you have followed the history of this expedition from the
beginning. You know how Junker telegraphed his painful details of the
needs of Emin Pasha; you know how Felkin pleaded to the public for
assistance to be sent to Wadelai ; you know how I was prevented from
going near Uganda by Lord Iddesleigli and the French Mini.ster, there-
fore you will know what we supposed tl.is information that the Waganda
were in Aukori to forebode to us. After all my endeavors to steer clear
of Uganda, whj' here the Waganda stood before us nearly two hundred
miles from where they ought to be. The Wanyankori by themselves
were altogether out of all proportion to us, but if the Waganda were to
be added to them — we had only to choose some soft grassy ground to
lie on. We found the Waganda were a deputation from a body of 3,000
Waganda, who were camped a day's march ea.st of the King's capital, or
about two days' narch from us. I believe you are aware that the Wa-
ganda arc exceedingly diplomatic in their way. These Waganda amazed
me by the manner they warded off all inquiries as to what they wanted.
At night the deputation came to my hut and revealed to me one of the
most a.stonishing bits of real modern history that I know of. TIk
Church Missionary Society's mi.ssionaries who are involved in this pericnl
and its troubles no doubt have given the British public full accounts;
nevertheless, I will give you the pith of what Zachariah, a Waganda con-
vert of the deputation, told me, so that you can compare the two ace junts.

i decided
rest with

\ukori, 1
n"c offered
ches were
uard to be
admirably
r one knew
e gave any
Well, wc
d, due west
kfare that a
resses, spot-
natives of
They were

[ion from the
details of the
[le public for
iventcd from
linister, there-
:he Waganda
|to steer clear
two hundred
y themselves
landa were to
sy ground to
jody of 3.000
g's capital, or
that the Wa-
randa amazoil
they wanttxl.
[lie one of tli^^
,ow of. Tlu'
in this period
[full accounts ;
Ivaganda con-
[two accjunts.

WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA. 813

Mwanga, the King of Uganda, the murderer of Bishop Hannington,
had proceeded on his bloody course from bad to worse, until the native
Mohammedans united with the Christians, who call themselves Amasia,
to depose the cruel tyrant. The Christians were induced to join the Mos-
lems, not only because of his sanguinary butcheries of their co-religionists,
but because he had recently meditated the extermination of all Christians.
He had ordered a large number of goats to be carried on to an island,
and he had invited the Christians to embark in a flotilla of canoes for
their capture, as though for a grand sport or feast. A Christian page
warned his friends not to accept the king's invitation. They accordingly
declined, and went and hid themselves, leaving Mwanga in a great rage
at being baffled in his scheme. He had intended to have allowed the
Christians to feed on the goats, and afterwards to starve. The union of
the Moslems and Christians was soon followed by a successful attempt.

The Kill}? Finds a Refu;<rc.
Mwanga resisted for a short time with such force as he could muster,
but his capitals, Rubaga and Ulagalla, being assaulted and taken, he had
to fly. EmbarUing in canoes he and his party made their way south over
Lake Victoria, and sought refuge with Said bin Saif, an old friend of
mine in. 187 1, now called Kipanda in this country. Kipanda, it appears,
ill-treated the royal fugitive, coveted his guns and his fair women, and
Mwanga resolved to fly again before it was too late. He took refuge
this time with the French Mission at Ukumbi, which happened to be
nearer to Kipanda's station than Mackay's mission house. The French,
ever hospitable, received him kindly, .';nd availed themselves of the
opportunity to convert him. They were successful, and Mwanga became
a Roman Catholic, as I daresay Nebuchadnezzar would have done under
tlie same circumstances. Previous to this, Mwanga had expelled the mis-
sionaries, both French and English, from Uganda; expelled them in the
most shameful and humiliating manner, robbed their stations of every
article, and their persons of every upper garm ;nt — even their hats were
taken, and they were pushed adrift on the iako. The missionaries after
incredible dangers arrived at the south end of the lake, the French party
settling at Ukumbi, the English w«th Mackay at Usambiro. It was not
long, however, before an avenging Nemesis drove tlie tyrant to seek refuge
at the new homes of the poor missionaries whom he had so cruelly
treated.

After Mwanga's flight the victorious religionists of Uganda chose
ICiwcwa for their King. Matters went smoothly for a short time until
the Christians discovered that the Mohammedans were end-favoring to

814

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

detach the king's favor and good-will from them. They were heard to
insinuate that as England had a Queen the Christians intended to place
one of Mtesa's daughters on the throne instead of Kiwewa. The new King
did not long remain undecided about the course he should adopt ; but the
Mohammedans informed him that before they could accept him as a gen-
uine co-religionist he would have to undergo the rite demanded. Kiwewa,
however, though he had been ready enough to alienate the Christians,
had- compunctions on this point, and said that he preferred deposition to
conforming with their demands.

A TcFrible Slaiigrhtcr.

Somewhat staggered at Kiwewa's ob.stinacy, it was resolved that force
should be used, and twelve Watongole were deputed to seize Kiwewa,
and personally perform the operation. Among these Watongole was my
gossip Sabadu (see " Dark Continent "). Poor tricky Sabadu ! He met his
fate. Kiwewa warned of all this prepared by filling his house with
armed men. As the Watongole came to the hou.se they were seized and
slaughtered. Kiwewa killed two with his own hand. The alarm was
soon spread through the capital, and the other chiefs of the Moslem party
flew to arms. An assault was made on the King's house, and in the
strife Kiwewa was taken and slain. The rebels then elected Karciiia,
another of Mtesa's sons — the Cain who had slain his brother, Ma'ando,
the large-eyed boy who I thought in 1875 would have been King of
Uganda after Mte:a. Karema is the person who now reigns over a
divided Uganda. For the Christians have several times made head (five
times, I am told), and have maintained their cause well, sometimes suc-
cessfully, but the last time they were sorely defeated, and most of the
survivors have fled to Aukora. There is a body of about 3,000 in Au-
kora, while several hundreds are scattered throtigh Uddu.

Some time after this last revolution the Christians of Uddu heard
that Mwanga had embtaced the Christian faith, and, convinced that his
conversion was real, sent and tendered their allegiance to him. Mwanga
tlien came to U(klu with an English trader named Stokes, but as their
means of offence were inadequate Mwanga took possession of an island
east of Sesse, and there he remaii. . with about 250 guns; while Stokes,
it is .said, has gone back to the coast to purchase more guns and a large
supply of ammunition — upon a promise that Mwanga would recoup him
with ivory eventually. Meantime Marenia is king of the mainKmd, and
Mwanga, gathering to him all the Christians and disaffected, with tlic
natives of Se.sse and the islands, has assumed kinfjlv authoritv over tiie
islands of the Lake. In the civil war almost all the notables o{ Uganda

Will:

WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN havp r,

«™yed by violence, afdl^?:,?'"'" 'T ''''" ■"^'" ■" battle or de
are now titled chiefs. "°" " '" ''""^ ^'"S's pages i„ „y ti,„e i„ [s;;"

After the concln^Xmh'T'''','"'' ^''^''"*"«-
"'■■^.they wanted with us Cn'f "^ "■■'"'"™ ' ''^'"■•'"''^•J to know

all that took place, but you wUl ll . ^ altogether if I were to tell
event., at Lake Altert-thou" n^lura," "'■'"" ""^ ™"^"- The la.
an u.,ually .,0. The cleverl „?„ ? '^ ^"^P-ious-had n.ade me mot

I suspected the VVagauda Anrf .

rcL"";^ ^ ""^ "-" t..atYc:' I'd :r;;:: r«^""'^ -^-^ "-^ ^le.

reached Ruampara ^soMth nf fi "* definite an.swcr until r »,. i

could be fed while ab n ' I^ waL""':'*' '"'^ ' '--^ - e y ' 'l'
should return to their chi f el: ""^ ?'''^ "^^'^-^ 'I'nt the depSn
c°."c again to Rua„,p,,,. '^IZllZl' "^ "'"' '^™ ^"^ '-T nd
wl>en we were but a day lion, 1" a! P'"'"'"'' '""■ '"'•"•^1' i and «;; f
again, to be told plai,^y t . ,,C :"'":' '> '''''•-' "^ *P"ta' o" c m^
conversion, that I had no' :,iu , °\r r";/"^ ^'°^>' "^ ^'^ ^^

a Chns.,a„ all at once, that his nC^^^tf "'1°" "^""""'"S '^o pious
a cr.n,e that on „,y own respo,„i ,, j" .'""P "^"'""'K'on was such
h"" vvth a rifle, or to .,e,^ hi ? „ rr ""' ^^■"""•^- -en to assist
home could decide upon it. "'' °' '"y ^'"'^ ""tH our people a,

As the deputation ..'!^t:: Z:/""T ■
cap,tal was four d.,y.s. and as we itn r'" ""•''' '""^ ^"^ ">- Kin^^,

K.ng, who favor., Mwan,^.,an7tCwa-',"T '"^' ''°'" ^arague, the
greatest ease we could l. v ,! 1 J L^^f "* ''^^ '» -^"bnut. for Tvith the

""-■ capital where the fi.duin "m „ • "» ^'^"'''^ "•'-T could re-,ch

nan-ative is true-a„d I 1 ^e ."l"'"""'^"^ ''"-'"^^- "«t i"

Have pleased L.vu.gstone so „:uc":;; ratX: ^f ct"' '-'^ -^

- Of UiN.stian.s can become

l:(S

816

WONDERS OF THE TROPrCS.

'#■■

in twelve years so numerous and formidable as to depose the most ab-
solute and powerful king in Africa, and hold their own against any number
of combinations hostile to them. What can a man wish better for a
proof that Christianity is possible in Africa? I forgot to say that each
member of the deputation possessed a Prayer Book and the Gospel of
Matthew printed in Kiganda, and that as soon as they retired from my
presence they went to study their Prayer Books. Five of their following
accompanied us for the purpose of pursuing their religious studies on the
coast.

I take this powerful body of native Christians in the heart of Africa—
who prefer exile for the sake of their faith to serving a monarch indif-
ferent or hostile to their faith — as more substantia] evidence of the work
of Mackay than any number of imposing structures clustered to^^ether
and called a mission station would be. These native Africans have
endured the most deadly persecutions — the stake and the fire, the cord
and the club, the sharp knife and the rifle-bullet have all been tried to
cause them to reject tlie teachings they have absorbed. Staunch in their
beliefs, firm in their convictions, they have held together stoutly and
resolutely, and Mackay and Ashe may point to these with a righteous
pride as the results of their labors to the good kindly people at home
who trusted in them.

A Toiijirh Scotchman.

I suppose you do not know Mackay personally. Well, he is a
Scotchman — the to'<ghest little fellow you could conceive. Young too —
probably thirty-two years or so, and bears the cliniate splendidly — even
his complexion is uninjured — not Africanized yet by any means, despite
twelve years' continued residence. These Mission Societies certainly
contrive to produce extraordinary men. Apropos of Scotchmen, can
you tell me why they .succeed oftener than other people? Take MoffU.
Livingstone, Mackay, real Scotchmen with the burr. They stand pre-
eminent above all other missionaries, no matter what nationality. It is
not because they are Scotchmen that they succeed. It is not because
they are better men in any one way or the other, physically, mentally
or morally — of that we may rest assured — but it is because they have
been more educated in one thing than all others. While I say this 1
review mentally all whom I know and have met, and I repeat the state-
rs lent confidently. That one thing is Duty.

These missfDnaries, Moffat, Livingstone, Mackay, piously brought
I'p, r.'-e taivjlii, among other things what duty is, what it means; not to
Vicld to anything but strict duty. Thus, Moffat can persevere for fifty

W:/Ar STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA.

817

ist ab- '
umber
• for a
it each
spel of
am my
Uowini::
i? on the

Africa—
;h indif-
;he work
to</ether
ms have

the cord
n tried to
h in their
)utly and

righteous
e at home

he is a
lung too —
idly — even
|ns, despite
certainly
,men. can
[ke Moffat,
[stand pre-

^lity. It i'^
,t because

[r, mentally

they have

say this 1

the state-

brougbt

Ins; not to

re for fifty

years in doing his duty among the heathen; and Livingstone, having
given his promise to Sir Roderick that he will do his best, thinks it wil'
be a breach of his duty to return home before he finishes his work ; an J
Mackay plods on, despite every disadvantage, sees his house gutted a id
his flock scattered, and yet, with an awful fear of breach of duty, cl'.igs
with hopefulness to a good time coming, when the natives of the countr;
will be able to tell out to teach other the good news of " Peace and good
will to men."

My letter is of sufficient length, I hope, to justify me in the belief that
I have done a part of my duty towards you. I am sorry that I cannot
say that I have received a line from you. With all that, do not think
that I have been writing at you at all. J would rather believe that you
have written, but that the letters have miscarried in some way. Give
my best wishes to your dear and noble wife, and remind the children of
my existence. Yours ever,

(Signed) Henry M. Stanley.
To A. L. Bruce, Esq.

The extraordinary interest awakened in Mr. Stanley's return — an interest
which has pervaded all classes of the community, from the highest to the
lowest — is shown by the quick response to an offer which was made by
the Nnv York Herald from its London office. The journal announced
that it would give a prize of twenty guineas, that is, one hundred dol-
lars in our money, for the best brief poem upon Mr. Stanle ' s return.
Residing in London at present is Miss Harriet Ford, a Yanke: girl, born
and reared in Seymour, New Haven county, Connecticut.
An American Girl's Welcome to Staitley.

Miss Ford possesses the needful qu lifications for paying a fine tribute
to such a hero as Stanley, and, havii entered the contest *o secure the
prize, she was successful. The read of the journal were to vote upon

the merits of the poems after print*
upwards of five thousand votes, ,
majority. This gifted young lad^
poem which obtained the prize, wi i

Miss Ford's production received

J won the prize by a handsome

•nds to the editor of this work the

exclusive permission to use it in our

" Stanley's Explorations and Adventures."

The brevity of the poem is withal a merit, is one of its marked
features, and it is seen how much can be condensed into a brief space.

BACK FROM THE DEAD.

A nation's heart that t- ; with pride
At thy liravc deeds anu courage true,
A hc-irt that throbl>ed with anxious fears

818

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

^f-N-f

!. m.

When Hangers dread encompassed thee,
And silence seemed to shroud thy fate.
That heart is waiting now for thee
As never m: iden watched for love,
I Or counte<l days, or counted hours

When he she loved was from her side.

A nation's arms that ready were

To rescue thee from murd'rous clans

Or save thee toil in thy brave search, •

Those arms are stretched io •.vclcome thet

As would a mother greet her son,

Whose life or death hung by a thread.

And God had giv'n iiim back to her.

A nation's voice that spoke thy praise.

And cheered thee on to do or die.

And trembled when thy loss was feared.

That voice now rings with gratitude,

And echoes sound from everywhere, ■:

A gratitude the world must feel

To thee for knowledge of itself.

A notion's thankful prayers are raised

To that Great Guide who guards unseen.

Who led thee on to rescue one

The world had given up for lost—

A brave man by a brave man saved.

May tiiat same hand that guided thee

Protect thee still, and bring thee safe

Across the seas to English soil.

The one grand result of this plowing through the Dark Continent,
this living contact with barbarism by Stanley and Einin Pasha, will be a
work of preparation. They have opened the pathway for Christianity
and c'viii/ation. They have laid through those dark fore.sts an'd jungles
the highway of empire. How much need there is of this may je seen
from the uniform testimony of all recent explorers.

Maii-eatingr Savag^es.

When Dr. L. Wolf discovered a new route to Central Africa up the
Sankuru, a plot to kill the party was hatched by Bassaiigo-Mino natives,
who openly di.«cussed it, not knowing that one of Wolf's men couUi
understand them. " See ! " cried the chief, " they have no spears or
arrow.s. We will kill them all, and lake their beautiful things." Wdlf
walked up to the chief, fired a revolver close to his ear, and the savat;( I
dropped to the ground with fright, and then begged the white man to g<>
on his way in peace. Grenfell tried blank-cartridges on the Tchuapa
river until they ceased to be a virtue. '* You shoot with smoke," shoutcfi
the hostiles, " and smoke never hurt us yet." A few whizzing bullets,

-..red to a ..specfu, di.tanct SlT "'^'" °"'" --• -« "-/

On another occasion Thlt "'^" """xirew. '" ^"'"

ready wit, threw among them a H u? , ' '"' ""f'-'. with a woman'.
3c.an,ble for the treasures the ""' """"''" "^ '^^^''s, and T I r'
agam „, the channel. Grenfeir ^ , ^°'^°^ '° ^««k until ,ho b " t u
-friendly relations with m^ tS w,',:;"? ""'■•^-"''^ ^^^'^^ :;
°J ^^'•"^■on. The reputation of bei,T '■'"'^'^^ '■'"> >"'"' ti.reals

vement resource for many a" Af °' "* ^'■"'' '^''''-'''J '«=< been a co '
refused to sell food to r n ""'"' ^^""^^-^r. When tl„ 7. ?"

o .h Coquilhat did not b,ow /t ttf '^^ '"'^PP™ed just the",
the town, and the natives I ,■ , ' ™' * steamer ivas anm„,
--he puffin, little i::;^^. "^' f:™,'" V'-^ where his finl^r^t^d'
^"O'i ror a man who could ^l:Zl^^::Z:lT'' ^^ "°"''" '-

The explorers haveT'Tr"' "" ^^- '" """•

iv ror 1,300 mi es ud fh^ „ . 20,000.000 souls an?

Mobang, and 'Lc Aruwin.i on he n„ 7' .^°"=° '"''"'^ries, lik" e

'1 nu,ch n,ore savory than ,!»; ir " '^^••'">'<^"". ■^■•>y ti.e flesh of a „
""= f^'V .■<ex usually esclnir °^ '•';'">"•'■>". 't is believed the chief
-'- is greater, an^dlT; ^Tyf :^or:" '^'"'- '"^^ ^-^^

^•"'"^"^'''''nense roof is supported

«-i

820

WONDERS or THE TROPICS.

by five rows of posts made of trunks of trees. The Monbuttu are the

most famous cannibals of the Congo Basin. When Schweinfurth visited

them they followed the tribes around them simply as game, killed as

many of the enemy as they could, smoked the flesh and bore it away as

provisions.

Suspension Bridges.

Among the curious sights of the Congo Basin are the suspension
bridges, a net-work of stout vines thrown across the streams. They are
usually the private property of a chief, who collects toll of the passengers.
The finest specimens of these bridges are said to be those made by the
Manyema cannibals in the Upper Congo Basin. They are so skilfully
made and firmly anchored that they hardly move under the tread of
inarching people.

The best native servants of the Congo State are the Bangala cannibals,
who thickly populate the banks of the Congo above the Mobangi. Five
thousand of these cannibals, many of whom manned the canoes which
gave fearful battle to Stanley, and chased him down the river, crying,
" Meat ! meat ! " are now enrolled among the state militia, and are trained
to service as soldiers, boatmen and station laborers.

Tribes that do not indulge in this atrocious practice have the greatest
horror of cannibals. Coquilhat's men at Bangala could not repress their
disgust when they saw scores of natives walking about nibbling human
flesh, which they held in banana leaves. Von Francois described the
t:error of his fat servant when they reached the cannibal tribes of the
Vchuapa river. Nothing could induce him to leave the boat, and he was
wisely precautious, for the natives regarded him with greedy eyes, and
more than once begged the whites to make them a present of the man as
a token of friendship. Knowing the whites abhor the practice, the
natives often deny at first that they eat human flesh, bu*: when they can
no longer conceal the fact of their indulgence they boldly justify it. The
Manyema told one explorer that their neighbors were thieves and ought
to be eaten. " They come here," they said, " and steal our bananas, and
.so wc chase and kill and eat them." A small tribe near the Kassai told
Kund and Tappenbeck that they were not friends of theirs, for when
their friends came to see them they always brought them a few men to eat.

A Xoble Animal for Eating.

The Bangala were rather bright in some of the answers they n^ade to
Coquilhat's words of protest.

"This is horrible," he said to a chief whom he caught at dinner.
" On the contrary, it is delicious with salt," was the reply.

What stani pv » vtt> «

TAN..E^ AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA

^ 'le more intelligent cannihnic ti °^ nourishment "

•fi aistmction must be maH ■ h.. .

^'onally .aste human flesh a„d h''" """'^ cannibals who only occ,

feasts ,n five months. ^ """"« "'^'" ^^^^ h- only saw three ca„„,W

-^othe.were.eftttlteTastt'' T'"' ^''^"^"^- illZ
riie nat,ves took his two con rades „ f "'" '''"'^ ""^nded to establS,
''"d from the bushes wherH.e tad » '" '^T °" ^ P-'™« » thinl
bod,es brought back, and all the n '"'"'' '"'"^^'f he saw their '?,'

-^-Sttrfaid'^Saw^r-e^^^^

v"e r,- "; "^'^ "•-">' «"g t a'alTurb ■" "°"^ =" "'so. from , he-
vice he hved on the f,t of the land wh/je 1 ""^ '°° ^"""^■'■"ed for ser-

-«- - -'^ -u. b. A:t:r:f ;t^-:i:rtoT

Captain Van Gel ■ ^'"'""' '^'" *" «"' ^cat.

rnbe IS known, the Bal.,h=> u , '^ ^" ^"couramno- fopf*u,.

-^.ardtheprac:!:::^ rs;:^rroutbr:,'' -"^^^^

^ Though ,t will undoubtedly be a

I I

822

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

very slowp rocess, there is reason to believe that as the influence of white
men extends, cannibalism in the Congo Basin will gradually disappear,
at it has from many Pacific islands. , ,

Thousands of Dwarfs.

In his first expedition across the continent, when Stanley traced the
Congo to its mouth, he heard at Nyangwe of fierce dwarfs who were said
to live in great forests to the North, and to be most intractable little crea-
tures, fighting like demons with poisoned spears and arrows, eating the
bodies of their fallen foes, having no settled abode, but wandering from
place to place through the forests. It was thought these stories were
greatly exaggerated by Arabs, who wished an excuse for declining to send
an escort with Stanley on his way down the river. It was not until
1885 and 1886 that our explorers discovered the Batwa dwarfs .spread
over a great area in that part of the Congo Basin which is directly south
of the great northern bend of the river. In one season Grcnfell and Von
Francois found them in large numbers in two different river basins over
200 miles apart. Grenfell had previously found them on the Upper
Lomami, southwest of Stanley Falls. Between the Lomami and the
Congo the Arabs say they have had many" a hard figiit with them.
Further west, on the Bussera and Tchuapa rivers, Grcnfell and Von
Francois had a number of unpleasant encounters with them.

At the furthest points reached on both these rivers the hostility of the
hov/ling little folks prevented further advance. Their arrows, slimy with
poison, were showered by hundreds upon the wooden sun roof of the
steamer, or dashed against the .steel net-work that protected the deck.
Looking up the precipitous bluffs above the Tchuapa, the explorers coiiid
see the little coffee-brown people clambering where it seemed impossible
to maintain a foothold, and they saw them, too, swinging with the agility
of monkeys from limb to limb on great trees, creeping far out on
branches overhanging the river, and launching their shafts in mid-air at
the impertinent strangers who had dared to invade their privacy. Over
275 miles further south Wissmann met them in the country of the Bas-
songe, and he described the specimens he met as ill-shapen, woe-begone
bits of humanity, despised by their neighbors, and living in tiny huts.
Far west near the Kassai river, among the Bakuba, Dr. Wolf met them
also. They seemed to be timid little souls, quite unlike their fierce
brethren who had given such a warm reception to Grenfell and Von
Francois.

The.se curious people, as revealed to us by explorers, inhabit a region
a little larger than the State of Maine. They are lighter in color and not

WHAT STANLEY AND EMIN HAVE DONE FOR AFRICA.

823

so pugnacious as the Akka, horn Schweinfurth discovered on the upper
waters of the Mobanji-Makua, and of whose fighting qualities Stanley
has recently had the most unpleasant experiences. Both the Akka and
the Batwa are cannibals. It was an Akka dwarf who told Kmin Pasha,
when quitting his service, that he was going home because he was tired
of beef The Akka, from four feet to four feet six inches in height, are
believed to be the smallest people in the world. The Hatwa are a little
taller, and, according to the several authorities, they seem to average
about four feet six inches in height. In only a few places do they form
the exclusive population. They wander around among other people
whose language they speak, and whom they supply with the products of
the chase ; for there are no hunters in the great Congo forests like these
active little fellows. Eight or more families of them rear their rude huts
together on some good hunting grounds, and when in a few months game
becomes scarce, they move on to other fields, and again dig their pits for
elephants, buftalo and hippopotami, which are impaled on sharpened
stakes as they break through into the trap. From the boughs of trees
also they hurl their spears at creatures going to drink, and, if need be,
they follow the wounded animal for days.

"Don't go Near the Dwarfs."

The dwarfs attack their enemy in the night, creeping noiselessly up to
set fire,to the huts, and then shoot the hapless victims as they rush out.
Tribes who have not met them and won their friendship are in deadly
fear of the dwarfs. " Don't go near the dwarfs," said the Congo people
to Grenfell. " They permit no stranger to enter their country, they shoot
with poisoned arrows, and they are ugliest of mortals, with big heads
and bearded chins upon the smallest of bodies." Sure enough, the ex-
plorers found that many of them wear thin beards, but they are not partic-
ularly ugly and have no other marked physical peculiarity except their
extreme small ness.

When the dwarfs are on the march to new camps they sleep at night
on the branches of trees out of the reach of wild beasts. Their surplus
meat they take to the nearest chief, exchanging it for vegetables or for
brass wire and beads, with which they buy women for wives ; and thus
they are assimilating with the people among whom they wander, and
many of their offspring are larger than their fathers. Anthropologists
are speculating upon the origin of these curious people, who were known
to the ancient Greeks, and whom Herodotus and Aristotle described.

Next to cannibalism, the most terrible practice in the Congo Basin is
that of human sacrifices on the occasion of the funeral ceremonies of

824

WONDERS OF THE TROPICS.

important persons. The richer the family of the deceased person the
more numerous are the victims. Many photographs of Upper Congo
huts that have reached this country show the ridge-pole adorned with
human skulls — ghastly relics of these murderous scenes. The natives
cannot understand the horror with which the whites regard the practice.
" Surely," they .say, " since you white men are so much richer than we
are, you mu.st sacrifice many slaves when your great men die." Because
far up the tributaries slaves can be bought much cheaper than on the
Congo, canoe parties are sent for hundreds of miles for the sole purpose
of buying victims for human sacrifices.

As a rule these helpless captives meet their fate without a tremor.
They are blindfolded, bound to a stake in a sitting or kneeling posture,
and a single blow of the skillful executioner's knife decapitates them.
Coquilhat made a picture of one ol these terrible scenes at Equator
Station, where fourteen strong men met their fate surrounded by a
howling mob, whose din was enhanced by a dozen ivory horns and the
roar of drums as the knife descended. Though men form the greater
number of victims, wives or female slaves are often strangled and thrown
into the open grave or buried alive in it. Only once have the whites
seen a woman beheaded, and the shrieks of the poor creature were in
striking contrast to the dogged and sullen submission to the fate of the
other victims. Coquilhat says the men regarded his opposition to the
cu.stom with pity or contempt, but some of the women secretly said to
him, '• It is bad."

The good day is coming when this terrible custom and other savage
enormities will be abolished in the Congo State. King Leopold's
government is rooting them out as far as its influence extends. It is
placing gun-boats on the upper river and building military stations on
the Aruwimi, the Lomami and the Sankuru to put an end to Arab slave
raids, and to the practice of buying or capturing human victims for the
executioner's knife or the cannibal feast. Nearly a hundred chiefs in
1888 agreed to abolish human sacrifices and to help enforce, the regula-
tions of the State for preserving peace and protecting human life.

ised person the
)f Upper Congo
)le adorned with
es. The natives
jard the practice.
1 richer than we
n die." Because
per than on the
the sole ptupose

nthout a tremor,
kneeling posture,
decapitates them.
:enes at Equator
surrounded by a
)ry horns and the
form the greater
ngled and thrown
: have the whiten
creature were in
to the fate of the
opposition to the
n secretly said to

and other savage
King Leopold's
ice extends. It is
nilitary .stations on
end to Arab slave
an victims for the
hundred chiefs in
enforce, the regula-
hiuman life.

- »' ii m»(i aii ii i«i i>»iwrw i iiii i rirain i ii » ai> i i i ij<ij aBaaiaMii^^