IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k /, {/ :/. i/. Vs ^ a 1.0 I.I 11.25 1^ IM 12.5 | 50 *^™ llHI i^L ill 1.6 Vj v) c*^/ f v: > ^' > > 7 /!S« Photographic Sciences Corporation i> WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. M580 (716) 872-4503 '^" ^,1;? f/ ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur6e et/ou pelliculde Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ D D D Cartes g6ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) □ Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur □ Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents D Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intdrieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela ^tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film6es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentaires: L'Institut a microfilmd le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur □ Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurdes et/ou pelliculdes r~~| Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Th( to n Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es Showthroughy Transparence Quality of prir Qualitd indgale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Compi^end du matdriel supplementaire I I Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ □ Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film6es d nouveau de faqon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. Th po of filr Ori bei thi sic oti fin sic or Th shi Til wr Ml dif en be rig re( m( This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X Z6X 30X 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X Th« copy filmed h«r« has b««n r«produc«d thanks to ths ganorosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia L'axamplaira film* fut raproduit grAca A la gAnArosit* da: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Tha imagas appaaring hara ara tha bast quality possibia considaring tha condition and lagibility of tha original copy and in kaaping with tha filming contract spacifications. Las imagas suivantas ont At* raproduitas avac la plus grand soin, compta tanu da la condition at da la nattat* da l'axamplaira film*, at en conformity avac las conditions du contidt da filmaga. Original copias in printad papar covars are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printad or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illMStrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couvarture en papier est imprimAe sont filmAs en commenpant par la premier plat at an terminant soit par la darniire page qui compoite une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par la second pint, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmis en commen9ant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration at en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol •^^ (meaning "CON- TINUED "I, or tha symbol Y (meaning "END "), whichever applies. Un des symbolos suivants apparaitra sur la derniire image de cheque microfiche, se'on le cas: le symbole ^^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Meps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure ars filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtrn filmAs d des taux de reduction difftrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Aire reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film* A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. I es diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 DOCTOR AND MRS. WHITE. V' ->1-. THRILLING ADVENTURES, TRAVELS AND EXPLORATIONS or DOCTOR ELIJAH WIIITI], AM<»N(; TIIK ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND IV THE FAR WEST. N WITU mCIDENTS OF TWO SEA VOYAGES VIA. SAND- WICH ISLANDS AllOUND CAPE HORN; f '! conta;xix<;, also, a aaiEP HISTORY OK THE MISSIONS AND SKTrLKMKNT OF TIIK COUNTttT — ORIGIN OF TIIK I'llOVISIONAL GOVKIINMKN IS SKD WliILK TU AVEKSINCi AND KK- SIDING IN TIIK TKIlKITOlilES — DESCKII'TIOX OK THE SOIL, I'UODIICTION AM) CLIMATE. «• COMPILED BY MISS A. J. ALLEN. Mnv YouK : J . W . Y A I. r j^jUV- NW INTRODUCTION. Some admirers of solid reading say, with regretful sighs, and doleful faces, that the day of stable, instructing litera- ture is superseded by that of trashy novels, romances, etc., tending to corrupt the mind and principles. Formerly, the tables of even the fashionable were strown with volumes de- signed noi, only to amuse, but to elevate, edify, and contrib- ute to the truly intellectual enjoyment of their readers instead of those fostering vitiated tastes and sullying youthful minds, with which they insist our shelves are now cumbered. They mourn over the degeneracy in this of our otherwise " age of improvement," and not rightly judging the true cause, al- most wish, from the evils which have arisen from this, that the noble art of printing had remained undiscovered. But, dear friends, do not shake your head in such grave disapproval of the above apparently ironical paragraph. In part, I do agree with you. There does seem to have been a sad falling off from the pure healthful taste of former days, when a volume of true poetry, or a treatise on a sensible subject could be read with real zest and enjoyment. It is too true, that many works are now forced upon us detailing scenes too highly wrought, exciting and dissipating to the mind, and presenting pictures tending to nourish a depraved moral hunger. In their places we should have productions divested of frivolous imaginings, wild speculations, and false sentimentalism ; and I can not believe that our tastes are so vitiated that such we could not appreciate and duly value- There are real scenes of sorrow and pleasure even in this ) 1 4 , i If. \ m ; t' ■ 4r-- !■'' S^' a V if. ■1 \ 1 1 % i. : 1 ■■ i E i . i . i ■• 1> 1 'V-7 '■ C0NTKNT8. Lee and her bubo — Dntwing of George — Ilia fonner escnpc from death on the Seneca Lake — Mrs. Whitman's little girl drowned — Coincidence 87 CHAPTER XII. A call from the Dallee — Mrs. White, Mr. LobHp, and Dr. Bailey eel out for that Btatiou-Rclurn to the Ciipcad.'s— Salmon pnrly— Visit nnion(( the natives — The aged turned off to die — Portage — Visit to an Indi- an burial place — Dead housii' — War club — IJ,e-eiubark — Swift Cur- rent—Conversation — Disaster — Slnigglcs for breatli — Mr. Lcslie'H statement — Canoes — Conducted to the shore — The lifeless babe — Arrival at th; Fort — Reach the falls of the Willamette — Strangers — Unhappy night, — Reaeh home — Letters 95 CHAPTER XHI. Iliaessof Mr. Shepherd — Surgical operation — Singular impressions of Mrs. White — His death — Benevolent society — Visit to Xavicr'e — A Mother's anguish — Burying alive — The drowned boy — Outline of Dr. Bailey's history — John Turner — A hermitage — Turner's bra- very—His seclusion 10r> CHAPTER XIV. Daniel Lee's adventure — Visit from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver — English domestic — Visit from Dr. Whitman and Gov'nor and Mrs. McLaugh- lin — Mode of travelling — Mr. Hall and Lady — Party of the Hudson's Bay Company — Intermarriage with the natives — Origin of the cus- tom — Extract from Astoria — Return of Mrs. Lee — News — Effect — Oregon Institute — Agriculture — Mr. Lee's course on his first arrival in the country — Results — Exploring tour to the Umpqua country — Willamette Valley — Umpqua mountains — Diflicult assent — A plan- tation — Polite reception — Return — Meeting with an Indian party — Narrative of the Chief. 116 CHAPTER XV. Difficulty with Mr. Lee — Extract from a report of the board of raia- sions — Embarcation — Delightful voyage to the Islands — Danger CONTKNTa. XI — IVfrs. W 'b concern — The pilot ngain — Viaitore — Kxploring pqund- ron — Pic-nic — Embark for ihe United States — Pnnsengi'rt" — Mr. Dicli'B donlh — SocinI parties — Hailing a vessel — Anrrival in port — Bennett's express 131 CIIAPTKR XV[. Trip to New York — Call on Mr. Fry — His singnlnr behavior — Intro- duotions — Journey to Washington — Re eption — Appointnieiit to the Sub- Agency — Death — Lizctle — Starting for (Oregon — Company — Reach Havana — Separation — Sad thoughts — An oUI friend — Arri- val at Geneva — Curiosity excited by the Indian boys — Reach Buf- falo — Milan — Travel via. Columbus to St. Louis — Reception — Wil- liam Sublet — Kind reception at Indeprirlcncc — Anxieties — Meeting of the emigration — Resolutions 13ft CHAPTER XVII. Departure — Emotions — A friend — Manner of camping — Order of the morning — Dog slaughter — Sickness of a child — Detained two days — Difficulty in crossing Caw river — Increasing illness of the child — Its death — The mother becomes ill — Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re- turn — Undulating country — Big Blue — Divide — Rainy night — Buf- falo — Platte river and plain — Fuel — Souih fork of the Platte — Chim- ney and castle — Singular scenery — Arrival at Fort Laramy — Cost of flour, etc. — Bridger and company — Alarming incident 147 CHAPTER XVIII. Bufialo Hunting — Mother Bennett — Tobacco scrape — Sweetwaer Valley — Indian Village — Preparations for defence — Happy disap- pointment — Snow — Great Divide — Fitz Patrick's announcement — View — Two streams — Little Sandy — Separation — Reach Green river — The valley — Visit from a grisley boar — Animating chase- — Another separation — Difficult travelling — Slorm — Soda spring — Ar- rival at Fort Hall — Set off in company with McDonald — Another division — Herding district — Natives — Snake river — Drowning of a man — Fort Boicc — Burnt River Valley — Boiling spring — Doctor ob- tains a guide to Dr. Whitman's — Arrival there — Departure for WaH^. I*.:= ii H a ilt hi I m ml 7'::; I xii CONTENTS. Hi ^ • I walla — Two days' stay there — Formation of the Cascade Mountains — Petrifactions — A rock — Bluffs — Fort Vancouver mills — Willa- mette — Excitement at the Doctor's errival and appointment — A meeting — Its doings — Preparations for receiving the reinforcement — Meetings to establish a provisional form of government — A tribu- nate — Disturbance among the Indians at Wallawalla and Clearwa- ter — Call for the Agent's interference 158 CHAPTER XIX. General excitement — State of the colony — Improper conduct of the up- per country Indians — Character of the Wallawallas, Keyuses, and Nez Perces — Their disposition towards the missionaries — Mistaken course of the missionaries — Their treatment of a clergyman — Dan- gerous situation of Dr. Whitman among them — His kindness — Indi- an's treatment of Mrs. W. — Burning of the mission mills — 111 treat- ment of Mr. Spalding and lady — Expedition of the Sub-Agent — Hardships — Reach Waiilatpu — Appointment with the chiefs — Mr. Spalding's station — Reception — The Agent's treatment of the In- dians — Public interview — Speeches of McKinley, Rogers, and Mc- Kay — Five Crows, Bloody Chief, and others — The Doctor's statement and advice— Appointment of a high chief — Feasting — Last meeting —Close — Results of Dr. White's visit to the Nez Perces — Laws of the Nez Perces — Return to Waiilatpu — Keyuse tribe — Feathercap— Touiti's accusation against the whites — Appointment for another meeting — Reach Waacopum — Success — Doings of the missionaries — Catholic missions — Schools — Country upon the Columbia am) its tributaries, and towards California — Limestone, &c. — Settlements at the Willamette — Falatine Plams — Clatsop Plains, &c. — Comparison between a certain portion of Oregon, and the New England States — ^Terrible disaster — Hard characters — Volcano — Report of Mr. Spalding — Mr. Jasen Lee'sReport 172 CHAPTER XX. Excitement among the Indians — Different views of the alarmed whites — Another journey — State of the Indians — Mr. Spalding's station — Nez Perces — Keyuses and Wallawailas — Presence of the wbmen at C0NTKHT8. lUl the feast — Peace — Visit the Dalles— Course of the agent — Laws of the white 1— Immigrating party — Willamette valley — Gov. McLaugh- lin— False reports — Schools — Mission claim — Mr. Lee — Instructions to immigrants — Oregon Institute — Letters 213 CHAPTER XXI, Manufacture of liquors — Breaking ap a distillery — Conduct of Cock- stock, an Indian — AflVay — Killing of Cockstock — Deaths from poi- soned arrows — Interview with the Indians — Previous frightful affair with Cockstock — Alarming visit of fift>'en Indians — Cold Blooded murder — Presents to Cockstock's widow — Protection required — Let- ter from Mr. Hines — Meeting of the legislative body — Resolution — Unhappy affray — Conduct in courta— Resources of the country — Soil of Oregon — Arrival of Rev. Mr. Desmitt, nuns and priests — Port- Exports — Impons — Tour — Schools — Quiet among the Indians- Note from Mr. Littlejohn — Fidelity of the Indians — Reasons for pre- venting the sale of liquor — Enactment of the legislative committee of Oregon — An act to provide ways and means 228 CHAPTER XXII. General health, etc. — ^Winter rains — State of affairs between the whites and Indians — Chief of the Fallatine plains — Aggression by the Indi- ans—Military assistance called for — Communication of the chief — Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Californians — Murder of Eli- jah Hedding — Ellis sent to the whites — Salutary language and inter- view' — Happy visit with Ellis — Intended revenge of the aggressed party — Invitation to the chiefs — Difficulty at fort Vancouver- Suspension of hostilities — The agents weariness of the unhappy state of affairs — Dissatisfaction with the government — An unpleas- ant affair settled — The colony— -Methodist institute — Circulating medium needed — Agent's unpleasant position— Number of Indians — Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas — Answer from Russell and Stewart — Letter from Mr. Burnett — New wagon route — Report of the sub-agent's interpreter — Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Perces— Letter from Mr. Lovejoy to the secretary of war — A resolution- Note to Hon. W. Medill 239 m xir CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIII. Thrilling story — A slave slain and buried with his master — Strange custom — Inducements to the doctor to take the journey home — En- deavors to discover a new route through the Cascade mountains — Scaling n mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine view — Masses of rocks — Mt. Ilood — Disheartened — Return to 'he base of the moun- tain — Molalah Indians — Disappointment — Wheat — Petrified ash — Advantages lor settling — Deer and elk — Wild cat — New determina- tion — Fine country — Mounds — Mt. Spencer— -Ascent laborious — Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous view — Descent 259 CHAPTER XXIV. IM Indian encampment — Prairies and band of Indians — Stream — Separa- tion — Spur of the mountains — Horses left — Indian village — Singular destitution — Embarking on the river — Startling accident — Swift travelling — Sterile tract — Tide water — Encamp — Indian village — Craw fish — Singular piece of meat — Indian explanation — The ocean — Strip of land — Boy — Brown's claim — Railroad advantages — Indi- an toil — Good fire — In sight of friends — Breakfast — A start — A pres- ent — Wolves — Beautiful country — Arrival at the colony — Petition — Start again for the states — Party separate — Meeting at the Dalles — Indian encampment — Wedding here to-day — Bride and bridegroom — Dresses — Whimsical story — Disappointment in obtaining the bride's beautiful dress — Murderous afTair — Interesting account — Deserter — Another threatened — John Day river — Saucy Indians — VVallawallae — A halt — Visitors and presents — Agriculture and its effects — Hot Spring — Alarm — Keyuscs and Ncz Perces — Alarming report — Guard — Emigration — Letters — St. Joseph's company—- Mr. Fisher's eager- ness for news — A meal — Odd reason for lagging behind — Chance for carrying a \^'Acr — Roguish girls — Fort Hall — Ru)iaway horse.,.. 270 CHAPTER XXV. Showers — Soda Springs — Dr. Burke — Pleasant interview — Green river — Great change — New route — Sterile and forbidding country — Sum- mit level — Uncomfortable night— Contrast — Divide— " Home, sweet li CONTENTS. XV home" — A liai! — oabbalh travelling — Weather — Dreary pass — Ani- mals — Bear — Sweetwater valley — Independence rock — Solitary walk —Halt — Ravine — Snow — lied blufl'— Camp on the Platte — Buflalo — Needleas fears — Ilumhug — Three grizzly bears — Signs of Indians — Nondescript — Indian and family — Signs of danger — Herd of hor- ses — Attempt to es'Tipe observation — Failure — An old mnn — Kind reception — Ilnndsoino ofler — An American — P'easting — Smoking — Reasonable request — I']ncampmoni — Two Frenchmen — fJood meal — Warm spring — Fort Laranny — .Mr. Tappan — Fligibility for a mil- itary post 3^it> CIIAPTJCR XXVI. Chapman's return fur the minute book — Hard time — .\ move — Return — White men — The Platte — Art nature — Platte crane — Polecat — Abh creek — Thompson — A present — Wolves — Kill a buffalo — A robbery — Woodless plafte, valley, etc. — Dread — History of a lump of sa^jar — Singular circumstance — Sabbaih niorrring— Weather — Buf- t'alo — Birds — Antelope, etc, — Length of the buflalo district — Lur^^e herd — Express — Warning of da igor — A sign of danger — Pawnees — Unpleasant interruption — Pack-horse frightened — Troul lesome Indian — Departure — Filing — Another interruption — Number of Indi- ans — Madness of atleini)ting to contend — Brown and Saxton — Coat taken — A blow — Hard ujago — A protector — A ride on horse-back — S ixton — Little demons — A council — Delicate fea?f — Council more luoJerate — Another confujc.ition — "Bad people behind" — Not to In* galled — Saxtoii's vii:itor — Package of manuscripts — Preparation to start — Kind old squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant surprise — Advanta- geous trade proposed — Kind interference — Forced trade — Final con- clusion — Dr. Sattrrly 297 CHAPTER XXVII. Departure — Prairie on fire — Sirong wind — Raw corn — Thirst- — Dreams — Poo: — Indians — Ruse — Living on raw corn — Big Bine — CJrove — Wild turkey — I/iciiy shot — Po3tpon<^ment of a feast — Sabbath — Bad night — Indian and family flour — Nice bread — Fi'ozen squashes — Residence of Mr. Fish — Beautiful country — Westport — Mr. Brown — Independence — Divine worship — Visit to the mission 308 if .,v ■f' it. ii '3 m .Vr.'J hi XVI CONTENTS. 1 !i '; 1 ■■ 11 CHAPTER XXVIII. \ Outline of journey to Washington — Gracious reccplion— .Thoughts o home — Meeting with friends in New York city — Reach Ithaca — Arrival home — Letter to the editor of a western paper — Decrease of the Indian population in Oregon — ^Timbers of Oregon — Fossils — Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators of Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon — Treat- ment of public officers — Treatment of Dr. White 314 I'll TEN YEARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER I. E ^ r CircumBtances ^hich suggested to Dr. White the project of going to Oregon — Emotions of Mrs. White — Announcing to the Board of Missions their willingness to go — Appointment received — Coinci- dence — Reception at New York and Boston — Embarkation — Friends accompany them a few miles out — Parting — Number and descrip- tion of the mission party — Children. ••. ■: I During the intense frost that prevailed in the midst of the great conflagration of '36 at New York, Dr. .White came in from a professional ride, and shivering with cold, seated himself by the fire; and while warming his be- numbed fingers, took up the Christian Advocate for a few moments' perusal, and, glancing over its contents, sud- denly, in his usual jocular manner, observed to Mrs. W,, that there was a call for them from Oregon ; that the board of missions advertised for a clergy^nan, physician, ..^cc &c., and as he could act in the capacity of pill-pedler, he thought it might be well to respond thereto. She did not immediately answer ; and looking up, he was surprised to find her weeping. This seemed to him singular, as her disposition was so unusually cheerful, and it was so seldom that there was a trace of tears to be found upon her cheek, especially, as he thought, for so trivial a cause. In some confusion and mortification, he begged her not to allow hia t.'i Mil M f^ I"! k I III 18 TEN YEARS IN ORKOON. nonsense to cause her uneasiness ; assuring her, he was but jesting. Still she wept in silence, till, after a pause of seve- ral moments, she struggled for composure, seated herself by his side, extended her hand for the paper, and twice looking over the notice, she related to him the sensations with which she had ever traced the map of the Columbia river.* She farther remarked, that if he could so arrange his affairs as to render it consistent for him to go to Oregon, she would place no obstacle in his way, and with her moth- er's consent would willingly accompany him. This was so unlike her usially matter-of-fact language, and seemed, in- deed, so visionary, that he was astounded, and in his turn, speechless. Becoming composed, they calmly discussed the matter, and eventually decided that prudence demanded their remaining at home, maugre childish impressions. They confess, that, whenever they afterwards thought of this incident, it always provoked a smile, although it never failed to interest, serving forcibly to illustrate from what casualties sometimes spring strange and momentous results ; xis, till this moment, they had no more thought of engaging in such an enterprise, than of a trip to the moon. I "i if I u llfi I n S!, I ; HI * Mrs, White relates, that frem childhood, while pursuing the study ol Geography, the Columbia river, and its adjoining country, had always created in her mind a deep and absorbing interest. Not that she had any reasonable expectation of ever visiting it, but for hours she would sit, wrapped in contemplation, her feelings and attention drawn towards that region of the world, in an inconceivably strong and singular man- ner. It may seem a superstition, but, in after years, this was explain- ed by a circumstance which will ever causa her heart to throb with peculiar emotion. [Reference is here had to her own narrow escape, and the drowning of her little son, in the Columbia river. See chapter 12.] '■if TEN YEARS IN ORKQON. 19 Ining Up to this period, the board of missions of tlio Methodist Episcopal Church, had never employed a physician in any foreign field. But this was emphatically a time of singular adventure, and the spirit of enterprise had seized upon all ranks and departments of business. Nor, in their benev- olent operations, did the Christian churches stand still, in the busy round. Various were the calls from heathen climes, and ready were the responses. Africa, China, Bur- ma, India, and the Isles of the South Sea, were not the only quarters from which had arisen the macedon cry. The calls from the Pacific had been heard, and the gladdening results of labors in the Sandwich groups and Society Isles, urged on to farther and more glorious conquests. Last, but not least, came the cry from Oregon's dark mountains and savage plains. The thrill of the appeal of the Flat- head delegation was electric, and fired the churches with a spirit of noble emulation. The Lees, Parker, Whitman, and Spaulding, were the first to respond. A fortnight passed on ; not without some reflection on the subject, and the Advocate announced that the required compliment had been completed, physician excepted. After more mature dehberation, Dr. W. addressed the secretary of the board, stating that if no more satisfactory offers were made, he was at their service. Ten days later, a letter arrived from Dr. Bangs, containing his appointment, and requesting him to be in readiness to sail in a few weeks from Boston, via. Sandwich Islands, to Oregon. Mrs. W. still retained her determination to accompany her husband, though, till she saw the appointment and its publicatioD, she scarce realized a possibility of a necessity of her doing The thought that they were now to leave, probably so. for ever, their dear home and dearer friends, was a sad one, ^ TEN TBAnS IN OllKOON. i ■ r ( ♦ 4 I I i Ml ' \ "if Hi -;* 'tod she shed tears of regret, though not of reluctance, to ^1^. She pictured to herself her mother's anguish, at what must be very like consigning her only daughter to the grave. '*hic anticipated separation from that mother who had nursed her so tenderly, and loved her with the tireless, changeless 'affection which the maternal heart only knows, filled her Vith sorrow. However, by a fortunate coincidence, they Were spared the painful scene they had feared, and obtained ^iier consent with little difficulty. When they visited her for Itiat purpose, she had just been reading, for the first time, ^*iiie life of Mrs. Juds(Hi ; and the example oX. this excellent tady had so interested her, that, when their project was laid '*feefore her, she listened with comparative calmness ; and, though somewhat astonished, was willing they should go where duty led them. This, in some measure, relieved Mrs. White ; and, with a lightened heart, and more compo- •sure, she set about the necessary preparations. In a short time, all was in readiness ; the last farewell wept, rather than spoken ; the last yearning look lingered on cherished objects, and they were on their way to Oregon. At New York they were received with the utmost cordiality, and warm, kindly feeling, for which that city has been so justly distinguished. On the day that their eldest son was one year old, they embarked for Boston, where they were like- wise received with a kindness and attention worthy of en- suring their lasting gratitude. During their stay, their time was mostly occupied in making purchases of utensils for the future comfort of themselves and others of the expedition, in their far-off destination. At last all was completed, and they embarked on board the ship Hamilton, Capt. S. Bar- ker, for the Sandwich Islands ; and some tliirty of the friends proposed escorting the mission family a short TKN YEARS IN ORSOON. ai distpancc on their way. For this purpose, they also went on board, hiring a pilot boat to accompany the ship. They, enjoyed a delightful season together, although the missioa- aries felt .as though about to be torn for ever from those con- nected to them by ties of real friendship, for they accounted them dear as though they liad known them for years instead of days. Their enjoyment was brici', however, as it was late in the day, and they were soon out of sight of land. At the end of two hours they were compelled to separate. That tlieir adieus were sorrowful, may not be doubted , indeed, this, or any other word in our language, is inade- quate to describe the emotions of the party. As the pilot boat dropped roimd the stem of the vessel, its occupante waved their handkerchiefs, and simultaneously began sing- ing a farewell missionary hymn. The efifect was electric ! Some rushed to the side in agony, as though they would recal the departing ones, and return with them to their na.- tive land. Others covered their faces, and tears streamed through the trembling fingers ; and sobs shook the frames of even strong men. They thought not of formalities ; in that hour it was not a shame for the sterner sex to weep. The forms of their friends fast lessenca in the distance, and at last their boat looked like a speck on the wave, and tl^c sweet cadences of that beautiful song, faintly rilling along ifi their hearing like the sigh of an angel, were the last sounds that reached them from the home of civilization. WiH» hushed respimtion, bowed heads, and straining ears, they listened to its low breathings, now wafted gently and sooth- ingly to them on the breeze, then dying away, and finally lost in the whisperings of wind and w ives. It is folly to attempt description, but for weeks did it haunt their slizm- bers, while tossing upon the treacherous deep ; and it came ■1 fU ^i it TKI^' TSARfl' Ili' Onk'OON. f ■ I son of a poor widow in Havana. He was a round favored, plump little follow, much attached to his hook, and of sin- gularly inttillectual ciist. His memory Avas extraordinary. Few, either man or hoy, could compete with him in this re- spect. His narrow escape from drowning in tln! Seneca Lake, together with his dreadful fsitc in Oregon, will he brought in, more appropriately, at another time. Mr. Beers' eldest daughter was a very frank, happy young girl, perhaps some- what of a hoyden, as young girls will occasionally bo. She was very fond of Benny, and they enjoyed extremely well the sports of Mr. Wilson with the kid ; and the vessel often rang with their noisy shouts of merriment, as they frolicked together. Benny was a child with piercing, laughing black eyes ; in short, a pretty babe, and afterwards a fine boy. There was his little sister, Eleanor, who was a great talker, like many of her sex, affording the elder one much amuse- ment by her lisping prattle. Children, so far from contrib- uting to the enjoyment of people generally, are often con- sidered annoyances ; yet the artless chatter and playful pranks of these, greatly dispelled the gloom and ennui which would sometimes steal over the ship. -: T" ina^ TKjr YEARS IN OREGON. w CHAPTER II. Firit dinner on board. Effect of change of diet — Water ; ita acar- city — Swearing — Flying fiah — Shark — Mother Carty'a Chickena— Employment — Reaching the LIquator — Neptune — Ainuaing accne— • Storm — Plate of Ham. 'tiiK departure of their friends left the mis.sionarics* feel- ings so harrowed, that they had little appetite for their din- ner. However, when called, they descended to the cabin, and tlu! table and its appurtenances were before them. — The table was about twenty feet in length, fastened to the deck, and the benches likewise ; other scats they then saw rtone. They seated themselves, and the viands were served. A turrecn of bean soup, in the first instance sufficiently W6ak, but again diluted, so that its richness could in no wise injure the digestion, was placed before them. This was dis- posed of, as well as possible, hope suggesting that something tt6re palatable would next present itself. Next came some hard sea biscuit, and a large, uncouth piece of half-boiled beef, at which they gazed with rueful faces, scarce daring to hope for sufficient strength of jaw for its mastication, and ifivoluntarily wishing for more of the before despised bean Soiip. Dr. White's little son was but thirteen months old; and with what management they were to keep him alive, on such food, was beyond his parents* comprehension. How- ever, they submitted with the best grace they could, think- big that the dessert might be more acceptable. But they iiad no sooner eaten what they thought proper of this deli- t . ^k' a Ui'] 1 26 TEN YEARS IM OREOOK. ; h i i: I cacy, than the captain deliberately arose, and the meal was ended, minus dessert. But this was an unfair example of their gen<;ral living, as the ship was now in the confusion of getting under way ; it was subsequently, however, a grade higher. But the great change from milk and light food, to the crude materials more suitable for adults, engaged in manual labor, soon produced, in Silas, unfavorable symptoms, which terminated in an inflammation of the stomach, and the poor little fellow suffered incredibly. Of vegetables, they had ten bushels, severally, of mingled potatoes, onions, beans, and beats ; but the potatoes had been gathered in July, and were consequently withered and shrivelled, till both taste and sus- tenance weie nearly gone. Want of good water was another great annoyance. That which was on board was drawn from a filthy pool, near Bos- ton, both officers and sailors declaring it better than if taken from springs, as it would work itself clear from all impurities. The passengers presumed to indulge the suspicion that the indolence of the hands might have furnished the true reason. It was contained in old casks, which had been unfit for use, but for another equally satisfactory excuse, namely, that green wood emitted deleterious properties, and consequently, tlie older the vessel the better the contents. At any rate, both these causes, however good, failed to accomplish the de- sired object ; as, to be near a cask, while it was being opened, was very sickening, for a more foeted, repulsive scent, was never smclled. Frequently, after rendering the water as pleasant and palatable ls possible, and presenting it to the sick boy, he would refuse it, with a most unqualified expres- sion of disgust on his little face. Even of this, they had not sufficient for the whole voyage ; and as they passed under I th sc th a' 1 if TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 27 the equator, during the frequent storms, they stopped the scuppers with swabs, .and thus obtained fresh supplies. Of this they had many good cups of tea and coflfec, though still not as pure as they could wish, as it was the tarry drenchings of the rigging and sailors' clothes, and washings of the deck ; but it was more endurable than the water from the casks. Had it not been for these providential showers, they must have been put on allowance ; as it was, during the whole voyage, they had not an article washed, larger than a pocket handkerchief, or a dress for the little ones. It was very unpleasant and inconvenient ; and they often thought of those on shore, who would have considered it a hardship if they could not have had their raiment cleansed once a week. Being unacquainted with all the preparations necessary, Mrs. W. hud furnished herself with only a few changes for Silas, and he suffered much in consequence. When they arrived at the Sandvf ich Islands, she became much indebted to the kindness of the missionary Udies, who presented her with apparel more than sufficient for the voyage to the Co- lumbia, it being little mOw than one-fifth the length of the first. Having heard much of the profanity of sailors, they were surprised at never hearing a single oath escape their lips, save once, on an occasion of extreme danger, being nearly run into by another ship, and were persuaded that such reports were mere exaggerations. However this may be, it is probable the presence of the missionaries had a re- straining effect upon the hardy tars. The reports respecting the flying fish, our friends had almost regarded as fabulous, ranking with stories of mer- maids ; but they w^ere now convinced of their truthfulness. ) ." m II 4 28 TEN YKARS IN OREGON. li,' r I ■n If This species of fish is from eight to twelve inches in length, justly proportioned, resembling, in form, the brooli trout. They were always found in shoals, sometimes fol- lowing the ship for a considerable distance, and frequently, during the night, (probably attracted by the lights,) fell on deck, from which, being unable to rise, they were easily, caught, and submitted to the curious scrutiny of the passen- gers. Their wings were somewlxat like those of the bat, issuing from their sides, at about one-third the distance from the head to the tail, resembling a fin, save that they were proportioned to the size of the body, measuring, when extended, from ten to twelve niches. The distance whicli they were able to fly, when out of tlie water, though they did so with great rapidity, did not exceed fifteen ro(fe. They were often seen pursued by the dolphin, which seemed to be their relentless persecutor, as well as that of many of the smaller fishes. This fish was from four to seven feet in length, peculiarly nimble and active in its habits, beautifully colored, and when out of the water, the tints constantly changing to every variety of hue and shade. The sailors, con- trasting it with their salt meats, regard it a delicacy — the landsmen, tolerable. A sort of exercise in which the sailors delighted, was shark fishing. They would mount into the chains with an oflScer, and, decoying their victims, haul them on board, their helpless flounv^erings affordmg infinite amusement and excitement, and sometimes not a little affrig' to the spec- tators. Often, too, they received visits from the bird, about thr size of our wren, so far-faraed as mothor Carey's chickens, the origin of which name the sailors gave as follows : A widowed woman from the Emerald Isle, came from thence 'mi* ■ 11 w TKN YBARF IN OREOON. (S9 to this countiy. During the voyage, a storm arc^e, and she observed the little creatures fluttcrmg about among the masts and cordage, and the boys amusing themselves by capturing them. Her Irish heart rebelled against this, and, much afflicted, she cried out, " Och, murthcr, murther ! and don't kill the trimblin crathers ! Don't hamn me pure checkens !" Our friends were sometimes troubled for something to "busy themselves about, and the order of the day was gene- rally as follows : On leaving their state rooms in the morn- ing, the first biLsiness was ablution. This was not a pleas- ant operation, as they were obliged to perform it with salt • water, and the saline properties evinced more of a disposi- tion to adhere to the skin than was quite agreeable ; hence the task of wiping and rubbing was more satisfactory than that of washing. If the weather was mild, the quarter deck • became the resort, where they amused themselves by read- •faig or walking till the breakfast call, which was usually ■ about eight o'clock. This ceremony over, they returned to much the same em- ployments till the hour of dining. This was the important meal of the day, and they were sometimes treated to a des- sert, which consisted of boiled rice pudding, and, the great- '' est luxury of all, a mince pic, compounded of corned pork or beef, sea biscuit, dried apples of questionable character, "and a smart seasoning of salt and pepper. Dinner conclud- ed, which left them in the best possible humor, they gene- rally took a siesta of an hour or two. After this refreshing, '■ they foimd the shade of the awning quite grateful, as it was 'now the warmest part of the day, being between one and 'four o'clock. They again resorted to their books, till, wea- rying of this, after being out a few weeks, it required some- m Pi m :.■ Ik. '-,■-<■ 30 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. ' ■ ;<• ii I I r thing unusually exciting to interest them, and they felt, if they could only step into a bookstore and procure something new, it would be an inestimable privilege. The little stock of reading was soon exhaustec^ and they were without re- source of this kind. They were from the 29th of July to the 9th September, being about five weeks, reaching the equator; and had lis- tened to a great many sailor yams respecting the wicked practices of Neptune, and looked forward to the crossing with some expectation of witnessing an exhibition of his pranks. They stated, that, as often as a ship neared the seat of his poAver, he came on board with his queen, tritons, and attendants ; and if there were any green hands on board, they Avere sure to suffer. lie generally forced their accep- tance of a coat of tar, well napped witli feathers ; and for several days their faces would not recover from the severe fthaving they had received in the shape of scraping. At the eventful period, the cabin boy Billy was obliged to undergo some ceremony of the kind, the particulars of which they could never learn ; but the poor fellow was dreadfully fright- ened, and it is probable the crew played upon him some se- vere joke. There was rather an amusing scene when the sun was first discovered directly over head. The doctor was aware they were about far enough to the south to see it in this position ; and one day, about twelve o'clock, placing himself in a pos- ture so that he could have a clear view of it, he suddenly sprang up, and cried out loudly, " Stand from under ! — don't you see we shall be da.shcd to atoms ? Stand from under !" There were many idlers lounging about the deck, and at the shout, they ran in a panic from their several places, and stared about in every direction but the right. TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 81 Apprehending no danger from the " god of day," their thoughts never once pointed to him ; and they could sec no cause for the cry. Turning their eyes to the doctor, they saw him laugliing, and immediately suspected thoy had been gulled, lie pointed upward, and instantly comprehending the ruse, they enjoyed a hearty laugh. They were now approaching the most dangeroas part of the voyage, and did not pass the ordeal unscathed. In a few days they were near where the Amazon empties into the sea ; and such a vast volume of water rushing towards them in one direction, and the winds in a contrary, the vessel was often very violently agitated. It was thought they were in considerable danger ; but it was slight compared with what they soon experienced from the most terriffic storm they encountered. The clouds began looming in the west, the breeze to whistle more shiilly ; and the passengers, who on these occasions are more than usually alert, observed the officers interchanging looks of meaning, and issuing orders in low tones of stern decision; and that the men went t«t their duty with more than ordinary readiness and alacrity, with few words, as though much were depending upon their movements. Mr. Beers sidled coaxingly along to the captain, and modestly enquired, "Capt. Barker, is thcr»'' danger?" With a shrug of impatience he replied, " Danger, danger — no!" with a significant motion, which the interrog- ator interpreted as a wish for him to go ; for he immediately went below, and began diligently studying the sacred prom- ises. The ladies stealthily repaired to the cabin, and no on« was left on deck save a few courageous spirits, who delighted to witness the conflict between old ocean and the storm. The hatchways were closed, and orders given for reefing the sails. With an apprehensive glance at the already black f-Jr J1 . ^ M' 1 m 32 TEN YEARS IN OBEGON. f I r i • 1 I' ^ horizon, the men sprang aloft, and one after another of ^he clouds of canvass disappeared from the masts, and, with, a .single exception, they were scudding under bare poles. Even this one sail seemed almost too much for the vessel to bear, for the stick bent like a whip, and creaked and groaned under the pressure. The tempest burst upon them. The ship, like a living thing, crouched, shivering, in a trough of the sea ; and then, on a rising wave, bounded forward, like a maddened steed, striving to rid itself of its tormentors. On she plunged, but the storm was around her; she AViis wrap- ped as with toils. The heavy waves dashed against her oaken sides ; spray and foam enveloped her as a thick cloud, and the winds croaked and moaned through the rigging with sounds which absolutely resembled howls of rage. The lightnings coiled and darted from time to time through the angry skies ; and the thunder roared and muttered thrcat- euingly in the distance. To render the already frightful scene more dismal, torrents of rain began pouring from the murky clouds, and night to envelope them in its dark folds. With the little ones nestling to tlieir bosoms, and looking wistfully to them for protection, the females cowered trem- blingly in the cabin. Even the stout hearts of their male companions sometimes quaked,as thej listened to the crashing of timber broken loose from its fastenings on deck, the haul- ing of ropes, the quick tread of the men, and the rattling of furniture and crockery as the ship rolled from side to side. It was a night of terror. The latter part the winds wailed loud and wild, the firmament was sheeted with lightning, and the thunder rolled, it seemed, in one continued deafen- ing peal. The white wing of the lonely gull occasionally flitted across their vision, as if to show them, that, amid a storna where they, poor mortals, weren that was too scanty to aflford us suffici'^nt to quv nch our tl irst, before it was covered by the waves at their return. There being no prospect but that of starvation here, we determined to put to sea again. Three of our comrades, however, chose to remain, and we pledged ourselves to send a vessel to bring them off, if we ourselves should escape '.o a christian port. With a verj- small morsel of biscuit for each, and a liUJe y; . f TBN TBARa IN ORBGOH. 41 water, we again ventured out on the wide ocean. In the course of a few days our provision was consumed. Two men died. We had no alternative but to live upon their remains. These w^e roasted to dryness by means of fires kindled on the ballast-sand at the bottom of the boats. When this supply was spent, what could we do ? We look- ed at each other with horrid thoughts in our minds, but we held our tongues. I am sure w& loved each other as brothers all the time ; and yet our looks plsinly told what must be done. We cast lots, and the fatal one fell on my poor cabin boy. I started forward instantly and cried out, " my lad, my lad, if you don't hke your lot. 111 shoot the first man who touches you." The poor emaciated boy hesitated for a moraent or two, then quietly laying his head upon the gunwale of the boat, he said, " I hke it as well as any other." He was soon despatched, and nothing of him left. I think that an- other Tnan died of himself, and him too we ate. But I can tell you no more. My head is on fire at the recollection. I forgot to say that we parted company with the second boat before now. After some more days of horror and despair, when some were lying down ul the bottom of the boat, not able to rise, and scarcely one of us could move a limb, a ves- sel hovf' in sight! We were taken on board, and treated with extreme kindness. The second boat lost was also piclr- ed up at sea, and the survivors saved. A ship afte. wards sailed m search of our companions on the desolate island, and brought them away." • !*! I 1- 42 TEN YEARS IN ORBOON. CHAPTER IV. Black Fish — Dance oi the Poipoises — See Land — Heights of Owyhee — Venerable Pilot — His after kindness — Ladies left alone — Return of the Gentlemen — Cargo of Bananas, &c — Visitors — Landii.g— Settle for the Winter — Dress of the Natives — ^Numbers and occupations — Females' attempt at Imitation — Funeral ceremonies of the Princess — ffoceseion — Cahelas — Visit to Youii — Craters and Battle Field — Tamaakaah — Half-Caste Schcol— Mrs. White's School — Young Prince — Character of the Chilo'ren — Nurse Kakeria — Her love for Siias — ^Valuable Presents. "When in about 40° south latitude, our voyagers witnessed a singular scene. For two or three hours they had been followed by hundreds of black fish, and were loitering about the deck, when suddenly, in all di-jctions around them, the sea seemed to be literfMy alive with what they discovered to be porpoises. They were leaping about, apparently in high glee, shining and flashing in the rays of the sun, in- creasing in numbers, until, as far as the eye could scan, were seen the dancing, glittering multitude. It was a novel sight, so entirely diflPering from any thing they had seen in their voyage, they were enchanted. They were now nearing the Sandwich Islands, and for a day or two before descrying land, the crew, as well as pas- sengers, were all anxiety and expectation. They had be- come thoroughly wearied with their long confinement ; were getting short of food, having been long since out of vegeta- bles, for want of which one of the company had been at- tacked v/ith that dreadful disease, the scurvy. As the ship •n ^ ft, TEST TEAR8 IN ORIsOON. 48^ ^5 had been victualed for the whole passage, none had set foot on land since the day of their leaving Boston. The reader may conceive their delight at the prospect of again landing on terra firma, an they had been out one hundred and forty - eight days. About three o'clock one afternoon, they came in sight of the heights of Owyhee., apparently large masses of blacken- ed rocks, the remains of volcanic eruptions. The signal for a pilot was promptly answered, and they had the happiness of seeing one putting out to them with all speed. He was about seventy years of age, clad in a linen jacket and trousers, and his hair vying with his clothes in whiteness, although he was otherwise of youthful appear- ance. He was a wealthy merchant from Boston, a man of considerable intelligence in many respects, agreeable man- nerSj and with Dr. White and his lady was soon on excellent terms. He was skeptical on the subject of rehgion, as the following speech of his will show: "The mercantile and missionary enterprises are of much the same stamp ; both alike profitable schemes for speculation." Kis new friends afterwards becari.j much attached to him, and will ever re- member with gratitude his kindness ; for after their depar- ture from the islands, he repeatedly sent them presents of value, such as teas, sugars, cloths, 'ices, but all the manual labor of the islands. On public occasions, their dress was entirely European. Those of the females was principally black and white, the materials satin, silk, or cotton cloth, and straw hats of their own manufacture. It will be remembered, that, owing to the proximity of China, silks and such articles were obtained much cheaper than in this countr}% It was ludicrous to witness their attempts at imitating the foreign ladies in their dress. They were frequently seen flaunting about the streets in the richest of satins, perfectly stockingless, and heavy shoes, with soles of half an inch thickness. The raiment worn by the men resembled the summer clothing worn hy Americans. About this time occurred the death of the king's sister. Dr. and Mrs. White visited her during her illness, and were likewise present on the funeral occasion. It was one of the most imposing ceremonies they ever witnessed. Notwith- standing, in Washington, they afterwards attended the fu- nerals of senators and other distinguished men, they could not compare with this in augustness and splendor. By Bome means, probably embalming, the lady was preserved, 'unburied for a month, and every day the people had hours of wailing, which were without intermission from early in the morning till about nine o'clock in the forenoon. The rounds to which they gave utterance, were, with the excep- § 46 TEN YEAI18 IN OREOOH. f'r \ t;:i ]> A > i:' ! .:i' ll lion of the howling of wolves, the most dismal that could be imagined. This rite was continued till the day of the bu- rial, when every thing was conducted in the most decorous manner. At sunrise began the firing of cannon at intervals, like the tolling of a bell. The national, or king's guard of five hundred men, then convened, and were soon in full array, and the coffin was brought forward and placed under their charge, while the procession was forming. First walk- ed the king, leaning on the arm of Mr. Jones, the American consul. The dress of the sovereign was really dazzling. One article alone, his coat, he had imported from England at the cost of a thousand dollars, and it was a tnily gorge- ous thing. It was of the most superb quality of cloth, plen- tifully decorated with gold lace and buttons, and the nicest workmanship was lavished upon it. Next him came the chiefs and chiefesses (as they are called) of blood, the most respectable of the foreign residents, missionaries ; and in the rear followed an immense concourse of the common people, wearing an aspect more mournful and becoming the occa- sion than the stately, splendid group preceding them to the solemn music of a march. The cahelas were perhaps the most singular features of the spectacle. These, the doctor says, he is unable to describe, othei*wise than that they w^ere poles, the size of a man's arm, from twelve to fifteen feet in length. Two-thirds the length from the top, was covered with feathers of the most costly kind, so much so that probably the amount expended on the two could not have been less than two or three thousand dollars. They were obtained, with the greatest difficulty, from rare species of birds, inhabiting the mountains. The colors were red, white, yellow, and black. They were singularly beautiful, softly reflecting the rays of light, with a velvet richness, as 1 lAI TEK YEARS IN OREQOK. 47 they were borne on the shoulders of men immediately in advance of the monarch. In the burying ground were seen several planted on the graves of the dead, soiled and disccd- ored by the weather. On the group of islands there were several small towns, but Honolulu, of Oahu, was one of the most consequence among them, containing perhaps from ten to twelve thou- Band inhabitants. They did not visit each of the islands ; but receiving an invitation from the missionaries, Gulick and Whitney, Dr. and Mrs. White visited them at Youii ; and the prosperfty of their friends tended much to encourage them in their ar- duous undertaking. They visited, or rather saw, the extinguished craters of eeveral volcanos, and passed in view of the field where wa.s fought one of the most eventful contests of the last two cen- turies, and which secured to the last king, Tamaahaah, the whole of the Sandwich group. He was a man of shrewd- ness and cunning, possessing many good qualities, and, es- pecially in the latter part of his life, was much beloved by ^is subjects. During their five months' stay at the islands, being en- tirely without occupation, it was proposed to the doctor to take the place of Mr. Johnson, the teacher of the half-cast*^ school. Mrs. White was similarly engaged. There had never been a school established for the children of the white inhabitants, and they had therefore honored her by proffer- ing her the charge of one. Thus time hung less heavily on their hands than it would otherwise have done. With one exception, the scholars of Mrs. White's school were white. The little adopted son of the king was a pupil when it suited his convenience. The young priice always i\ ->.!" ■ .A'f fl /-■ill M imf '... ?i 48 ITCN YEARS IN OUEOOK. I:::;i came in somewhat imposing style, never accompanied by less than six attendants. One dre>,v his little carriage, and one walked on either side, and the others performed such services as he required at their hands. While he was in school, they remained on the green before the house, not being allowed to receive instructions with their youthful master. The members of the school were all young, the elder ones having been sent to the United States to obtain their education. They were perfectly good and gentle. As they had never been exposed to improper influences, they knew nothing of evil, and their instructress fondly imagined that even angels could scarce be purer than these dear children. During his mother's labors, Silas was left at home, con- signed to the care of his native nurse, Kakeria, who was de- votedly attached to her charge, moaning and weeping over him bitterly when she thought of his approaching departure for Oregon, imprinting upon his young face kisses of the tenderest affection. She was a most maternal creature, and a treasure to her mistress, because of her cheerful, faithful services. The parents expressed great gratitude to the instructors of their children, and presented them gifts of much value. Captain Charlton, the English consul, and Mr. Jones, the American consul, each sent them a fine cow ; as also did Mr. "Whitney, of Youii. Their new commander. Captain Hinckly, unwilling to be outdone in kindness, generously gave the animals their keepinf, ; and Mr. Hooper placed on board two barrels of molasses. Numberless were the kind- nesses of their many friends. lOi CO th th at bo an thi ioi tei th( mi li •. TKN YEARS IN OREGON. 49 V '■ ors ue. he id in ily on d- CHAPTER V. Spring and preparations to leave the Sandwich Islands — Benefit to them of their residence there — Engage passage on board ship — Food and water — Windy and boisterous — Great loss-^Contents of the Boxes sent on board by Pilot Reynolds ; his wife — Interesting yoang man ; his marriage with a native woman — Mr. Grimes — Sue* cession of Storms — Endeavor to cross the Bar of the Columbia — Desperation of the Captain — Crossing — Lulling of the Winds — Ba- ker's Bay — Rest —View — Varieties of Trees; their enormous size — King Chenamup and his Consort ; his Intoxication ; their Dress — Aground thre« times — Visitor — Invitation to the Shore — First Canoe ride — Arrival at Astoria— Residence of Mr. Bimey—- Beds for the Night. Spring was now approaching, and with it thoughts of leaving the pleasant home and friends to which they had be- come much attached. They were sorrowful, but duty bade them on to the wilds of Oregon, and they accordingly made their preparations. They were benefited by their residence at the isknds, for they had learned much of ■ 'ssionary la- bors, and the course which they must in part pursue. They embarked on board the Diana, Captain Hinckley, and found that, unlike the vessel they had before sailed in, this was provided with a variety of good, wholesome provis- ions. They were thirty days at sea, and had a very bois- terous passage ; but nothing more disastrous occurred than the death of their English cow, which to the children was a misfortune, as they were thereby deprived of milk. After they had been out a fortnight, and the weather II 'i 50 TEN YEARH IN ORKOOK, had become somewhat calm, they felt a curiosity to op( n the throe boxes which had been sent on board by Pilot Rey- nolds, mentioned in the last chapter, labelled to Dr. Whit<\ In the first they found a dozen bottles of wine, in the second eight of brandy, a\\ invaluable in sickness, and in the third pepper, spices, cassia, tea, sugar, and every such article as Mrs. White needed on going to housekeeping. Thoy liad often seen Reynolds while at the islands, and endeavor- ed to learn something of his former history. But in this they were disappointed. Tiiey had heard him speak much of his children. One morning Mrs. White went into his store on some trifling errand, when she saw a native woman behind on'^ , . the counters. She was dressed in black satin, with a wreath of rare and beautiful feathers upon her head, and was a tall, fine looking creature, of rather noble ap- pearance. After the usual compliments, Mr. Reynolds, turning to her, said, "Mrs. White, the mother of my chil- dren." This was a singular introduction, and she was rea- sonably surprised, especially as before she had never heard him mention his wife, and besides, this was the first instance she had ever seen of a colored woman* being the wife of a white man. A young man who left Boston with them, afterwards married a native woman. He was a man, who, from his acquirements and deportment, would have been judged pos- sessed of too much pride to form a connexion considered so degrading. His intellect w^as of a high order. He was well educated, and it was a treat, which, the passengers often sought, to converse with him a few momeats Avhen he could be released from his duties; for, owing to i.;is not verj' prcs- •The complexion of lue native is midway between the African nrJ Indian of this country. u ( -■ -.{T TKK TEARS IN ORlCOON*. 61 perouR circumstances, hit had gone before the mast to work his passage to the islands, where his father was residing. As there were so few young ladirs in the country, he could have returned to the states for a wife, if so disposed ; for he was so prospered that he could have done so with propriety as did another genlli-nmn, named Grimes, a passenger, who would have Ix^cn suspected as being more likely to take the opposite course. He was almost the reverse of Pitman — his inferior in both intelligence and education. He went out as clerk for an uncle ; and five years after, when they re- turned, he accompanied them, a wealthy merchant, married a lady in New England, and then rctumed to the islands. Nothing of particular interest occurcd, till they ncarcd the bar of the Columbia river, where lay the greatest danger they encountered, although for three days before they reach- ed it, there was a succession of storms. The danger far ex- ceeded their expectations, for they crossed under the most unfavorable circumstances that probably a vessel ever did. Their pilot had not been on the spot for t>/enty-two years, and the captain never had. When near it, the ship was obliged to lay to, on account of the violence of the storm ; and when this had in a slight degree abated, they were half a day making vain endeavors to get into the river. The captain, however, became more desperate and deter- mined, continually fortifying his wavering courage by deep quaffs of brandy. At last they reached the place of peiil, and he thundered forth orders to put the vessel forward. It was done, and they expected every moment that destruction would o\'erwlielm them, for they saw and heard the roar of breakers just ahead, and it was impossible to determine their precise situation, shrouded and enveloped as they were with ppray. However, this nightmare was soon ended ; for, as ':-i M TEN TEARS IN ORHOOK, f\ m Providence would have it, tlicy struck the channel, although not yet out of danger ; for, the wind lulling, and the ebb tide so strong, the captain, fearful they would be carried back into the sands, and thus inevitably perish, ordered the dropping of the anchors.* After a while the winds rose, a favorable breeze set in, and they came in view of Cape Disiippointment again, and were soon harbored in Baker's Bay, and in com- parative safety. The evening passed quietly, and they dwelt largely on the pleasure they anticipated for the morrow, iw treading once more the shores of America, although so dis- tant from their native homes. Even the good brig Diana seemed enjoying perfect rest in her snug liarbor, after having been so long the sport of boisterous winds and waves. Morning light stole upon them, and opened to their view a scene altogether new and interesting. Cape Disappointment lay on their left, several hundred feet above the level of the sea, commanding a stupendous view of both land and wat ' The whole cUff and coast were covered with trees and h age differmg from any thing they had seen in other countrico. There they found the red and wliite fir, spoken of by Clark and Lewis, as growing to such amazing height — sometimes from two hundred and seventy to three hundred feet high, • To cross the bar, bring Cape Disappointment to bear north-east, then lead up until Cheenook Point bears east by north, which you steer for until you have the cape north or north by eait, when yon have a scant wind from north-west. I have even hauled up for it when north> north-east, bordering upon the north breakers ; but keep in four fath- oms, lead close along the cape to avoid the spit sand, and continue to run into Baker's Bay until you have Point EUice and Tongue Point shut in thus X— when you can lead along to Baker's Bay, taking care to haul out gradually as you cross it, until you have Point KUice and Tongue Point well open, iio that you may avoid the lying to windward of Cheenook Point.— S/acum'« Chart. TBN TEARS IN OREOON. 53 rcsombling the hemlock in leaf tmd bark. They also af- t<»rwards saw at Astoria the tree mentioned by the above named gentlemen, felled a few years since by a party of Ca- nadian Frenchmen, who supposed it to be the largest in the world. Four feet above the roots, it measured fifty-seven feet nine inches, and wa« in the vicinity of three hundred feet in height, perfectly sound, and just as they had represented it in their official reports. In that section were wanting many varieties of trees which grow in this country, nor did the doctor aft,erwards find them during his absence from the states, such as the black and white walnut, hickory, sugar maple, and chest- nut ; but in their stead the white oak in its most scrubby form, some pine, large quantities of cedar, ash, laurel, yew, hazel, and alder. It was about the ninth of May — many sorts of flowers were in bloom, ai d their walks were really delightful. For the first time they now saw King Chenamus and his consort, who visited them on board, to their no small amuse- ment, and some mortification, as he had not been long with them when he became stupidly intoxicated, for the captain could not resist his pertinacious pleadings for strong drink. Captain Gushing aft li HI 58 TEN YEARS Hi OREGON*. ,r,:t liness, was the home and property of the red man ; when he roamed througli its vast solitudes, undaunted by fears of a race then unknown to him, which has since become his pitiless persecutor. They caught themselves gazing pity- ingly at their companions, almost fancying that their mu- sings partook of a similar nature, for their dark faces were grave and thoughtful, and their song had died on their lips. Twilight stole upon them, and with it thoughts and scenes of things far distant, home and kindred, and they were silent, for their fancies would not clothe themselves in words. The voice of the pilot broke the stillness, as he proposed seeking some spot on shore, on which to pass the night. They acquiesced, and the men paddled more slowly, while he searched from side to side for a landing place. Suddenly he pointed in a certain direction, and whispered between his closed teeth, hist ! and following with their eyes, they saw a light smoke rising from the tops of the trees. He con- sulted the men in whispers a few moments, and then turned the head of the canoe towards the spot. Slowly and cau- tiously they floated on, and a sort of panic seized upon the two spectators, and their recollection called before them deeds of horror, done in places and under circumstances less suited to their perfonnance than this. At length they shot into a little nook, and the men rested upon their paddles. Before them, near a large fire, sat an Indian man and wo- man, so intent upon what seemed to be cooking, that the intruders dropped noiselessly along to within thirty yards of them before they were discovered. When their eyes rested upon them, they started to their feet, and a loud, sharp 'ugh !' rang through the forest. With his rifle pointed at the boat, the man glided to a tree, and skulked from one to another till quite near it, when he sprang into a thicket and disap- "> TEN YEARS IN OREGOK. 59 pcared, much to their relief, for they had each instant ex- pected that one of the party would fall by the deadly aim of the savage. It would have been a rich subject for Coop- er, with his peculiar genius, to dwell upon. !'hc crew seemed perfectly undisturbed by the aspect of affairs, sitting quietly through the scene, and then walking composedly towards the fire, where they were in a few moments joined by the strange Indian. They stood together for several moments, apparently without speaking, when the pilot went to the shore, and motioned the occupants of the boat to come foiv/ard. The strangers watched them closely, but allowed them to advance without interruption, probably convinced of their inoffensiveness. After a time, the woman stole out from among the trees, and, seating herself beside her hus- band, they Avere both soon quite friendly. They presented their visitors with some wapatoes, which they had roasted, which, although they were not as delicious as the best of potatoes, as their appetites were sharpened, tasted well. After supper, they were sufficiently wearied to sleep, and therefore drew the canoe ashore, and in it composed them- selves to rest under the shelter of blankets. They slept sweetly and undisturbed till nearly sunrise, when they were awakened by the rocking of the boat, and found that by the rising of the tide, they were almost afloat. After breakfast they were again on their way, and had not been long on the river, when they passed the tree, high in the branches of which, was lodged the body of the " pet- nficd or preserved sister." TIic story, although it carried with it a strong appearance of improbability, the doctor had no inclination to disbelieve, as he afterwards heard it repeat- edly from Mr. Birney and Dr. Townsend, who were at the time travelling through the country with Mr. Nutall, the ' ic :i=i ■' , •. ■! ; s- 60 TEN YEARS IS ORKaON. |l^-* P, f i :V famous botanist, and others who were acquainted with the facts, for a tale of truth. Near the place, several years previous, had lived an In- dian family, of which little was known, save the following circumstance : A daughter, perhaps between sixteen and eighteen years of age, was afflicted with a long and painful illness. She had a brother, by whom she was passionately beloved, who would sit hours by her bedside, clasping her hand in his, and bending upon her looks of pity and affection. When she died, his distress and grief knew no bounds, and he had her obsequies performed in a manner entirely differing from the usual custom of the tribe. She was dressed in her holyday robes and ornaments, placed carefully upon mats in a canoe, and suspended in the topmost boughs of an alder. So far as can be learned, this people are unacquainted with any art of embalming, and there is, therefore, no reason for supposing that the youth resorted to such means ; but cer- tain it is, that he visited her weekly, mourning over the dear remains ; and after some time elapsed, he announced that he did not believe his sister was dead, as she had not begim to decay in the least. The friends repaired to the spot, and found it as he had said, that not the slightest trace of de- composition could be discovered. 7L'his phenomenon contin- ued for seven or eight years, at which time Dr. Townsend happening to hear the wonderful stori(!S of the " yoimg girl who had been petrified by a brother's tears," determined to obtain a sight of her. This he succeeded in doing unob- served, and found the body in a most perfect state of pres- ervation, wearing, in every particular, a semblance of youth and freshness. He was stricken with amazement, and imme- diately resolved to steal her away and bring her to the i TKK YEARS IN OUKQON. 61 United States, where lie was certain she would be to him of immense value, as, never within his knowledge, had such a wonder been exhibited there. He accomplished the busi- ness so far as getting the corpse from the tree, and even conveying it to Astoria, where -Li. Bimey was fearful of the consequences, if the act was detected. The sequel showed his apprehensions were justifiable ; for, in a day or two, the brother, on his first visit to the tree, discovered that the ca- noe was vacant, and immediately suspected Dr. Townsend, or some of the whites, for none of his own race would be guilty of disturbing the repose of the dead. Transported with rage and grief, he immediately assembled a band of braves, and, armed and horridly painted, they presented themselves at the door of the fort, and he demanded the body of his sister. At first Dr. Townsend disclaimed all knowledsfe of it, but upon Mr. Birney's representiEj^ lo him the danger they incurred, himself especially, as they firmly declared they would sacrifice him to their vengeance, he reluctantly consented to its delivery. They received the corpse with every demonstration of reverence, and, carrying it back, de- posited it in its former resting place, where it was not again disturbed. It was now supposed that the situation of the body, so high in the air, and the sea at no great distance, the saltness of the atmosphere prevented putrescency hav- ing any power over it. • .t 62 TEN YBARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER VII. Indian Village — KinJness of an Indian Woman — New kind of Um- brella — Accident — Meeting with Dr. Talmie — Killing an Eagle — Arrival at the Fort — Garden and Plantation — Arrival of the Diana — Mr. Jason Lee — Raillery of Miss Pitman — Mr. Lee'a Introduciion — Leaving the Fort — Captain Hinckley's officiousness — Laughable ar- rangement — Boat races — Conclusion respecting Mr. Lee — Putting in for the night — Supper and walk — Pond — Pleasant sail — Willa- mette Falls — A tradition — Bargain — Portage — Elk Bluff — Pudding River — Arrival at Battens de porte McKoys — Letter — Departure for the Mission — Delightful journey — Arrival at their destination — Miss Downing and Mr. Shepherd — His appearance — Two thousand two hundred miles journey ended — First dinner. * k ll-«„ Near tlic tree connected with the foregoing tale, the river fiboiinded in small islands, which, during the June freshets and flood tides, were nearly hidden from sight. The valley or bottom of the river here was wid but the channel nar- row, winding and difficult. Towards noon, the voyagers arrived in sight of an Indian hamlet, which consisted of a row of buildings, if I may so call them, not less than a hun- dred feet in length, and perhaps thirty in width, fonned by planting in the groimd poles, perhaps twenty-five feet long, notching the ends, with others extending from each to each, and placing against them barks, the whole resembling the roof of a house. Tovards this pilot George directed the crew to row, and as they approached the shore, large num- bers of both sexes and all size.s, flocked to the beach. They seemed to bo in a state of great poverty and destitution. I TBN YBARS IN OREGON. G3 I if Their slight clothing was of skins, and almost their only food salmon. One of the women seeing the child, came forward with a large piece of fish in her hand, the grease trickling through her brown fingers, and offered it to him. Aft4.r some little repugnance, Mrs. White took it and gave it (o Silas, who, with loss fastidiousness than his mother, eagerly devoured it. They tarried here but a short time, and had been on the river an hour longer, when the heat was so excessive, that Mrs. White suffered extremely Avith sickness and head-ache. They now felt the need of an umbrella, which they had been unable to get from the vessel, for they were destitute of any screen to shield them from the scorching rays. They pushed to the shore, and, procuring branches of the yew, fastened them to a staff. From the shade of this they ex- perienced sensible relief, and the Indians chaunting a low, mellow song, a 'drowsiness crept over the senses of Mrs. White, and, yielding to the soothing influence, she fell into a refreshing ^leep. Towards evening a light breeze sprang up, and they hoisted a sail. This was done by fastening a blanket to a long pole, in imitation of the mainmast of a ship. As tht; wind freshened, they raised another similar, which very much increased their speed. As they were passing round a sharp point, a puff of wind struck one of the sails, and, loosening a corner, turned the canoe far on its side, imminently endan- gering the safety of its occupants, and giving them a hearty fright. At this moment Dr. Talmie, from the fort above, hove in eight, on his way to the Cowerlitz settlement. lie saw the accident, and hastened to the spot, without the expectation of tlnding a single survivor, and assuring tl-.em that it was ^U;.i K: lib'. #• ■ I '■■' ■'■ ■ ;*; : 1' ■j I/- 1* \%'}'- 1 w ii- m^ 64 TEN YEARS IN OREOON. little less than a miracle that they were saved. They found him a pleasant, intelligent young man. His cordiality and friendship interested them much ; and their past danger was forgotten in the happiness of meeting him. He informed them that they were about thirty miles from their destina- tion, and after a cheerful chat with him, they separated, much pleased with their short interview. The river now gradually widened; the hills were not so high, and they passed many ash and elm swamps, which, like the islands during the June freshets, were completely inundated. Dur- ing the other parts of the year, they are very valuable for grazing purposes, as rushes grow there in great abundance, but are nearly useless for cultivation. As they sailed on, they saw, far up the river, a speck in the sky, which they observed with much curiosity ; it enlarg- ed as it neared them, and finally proved to be an eagle, the first they had seen. It alighted on a large tree at some dis- tance, and the Indians paddled swiftly towards it, till within fifty or sixty yards, when, with characteristic Indian stealth- iness, they floated silently a few moments, while one of them prepared his gun to fire. The noble bird sat proud- ly in his lofty station, unaware of approaching danger, and our friends looked on him with pity, as he received the dead- ly contents of the weapon. For a moment he sat motionless, when he suddenly toppled and wavered, and then came Imrtling over and over through the air to the ground. With a shout of triumph, his destroyer leaped ashore to secure his prize. This, however, he did not find easy ; for the bird was yet alive, and, even in his death-throes, singularly strong, and fought desperately a long time. At last he succeeded in kilUng him, and they found him unusually large, meas- i V ■£ TKN YEARS IK OREGON'. 6: lis ras ed f • uring from tip to tip of his extended wings, nearly nine feet. ni.s piercing eyes, noble white head, and majestic form, in- terested the spectators. The shades of evening were now falling around them, and they sped rapidly towards the fort, which they reached •about midnight, thoroughly wearied ; the monotony of the solitary, gloomy evening's journey, unbroken, save by the repeated filing of heavy muskets, to apprise its inhabitants of their approach. The noise rolled and reverberated like thunder through the hills, awakening the echoes, and re- turning with singular effect. The crew took possession of their effects, and pilot George led the way to the gate, little more than half a mile distant. They rapped loudly at the portal, and were answered from within by the barking of dogs. In a few moments they heard a heavy step, and a gruff voice roughly demanded " who 's there !" They an- swered that they were strangers from the states. The gate was thrown open, and they were admitted by Captain H(>lmes, commander of the ship Vancouver, who was after- wards droAvned in the pilot boat at Fort George. They were next politely introduced to John McLaughlin, presi- dent of the Hudson's Bay Company west of the Rocky Mountains. This dignified, white-headed old gentleman, was kind and affable in his manners, and had a thousand questions to ask, particularly of the difficulty between the United States and England, upon the Maine question, which was just then breaking out. Refreshments were ordered, and thcv sat down to a plain but excellent board ; after which the steward spread their mats and blankets upon the birth-like fixtures, then the only beds of the country, and they retired for the night. The next morning they rose early, and on leaving the m r'fl m ^ .1 i • II': t 1 •' ■ t 1 i i . a (^^ TEN YEARS IN OKEOON. hoaso, found themselves in an enclosure of stockudcs, of perhaps three acres. This was all the fortification the plac4- could hoast. In this enclosure, on one side, were stores and trroceries, and on the other, mechanics' shops of all kinds, carried on with as much precision and regularity as in any town of New Enj^land. The ground unoccupied by buildings was sodded, and grass was springing up in freshness .?nd beauty. In the rear, was an extensive garden and or- Ciittrd, containing many, and some rare, sorts of vegetables, and English fruits in considerable abundance. After break- fast, the governor politely invited the doctor to accompany him to the plantation, where, to his great surprise, he found a large collection of horses, sheep and neat stock. As they were returning homeward by the river side, at a mile's distance on their right, they saw the Diana in full sail for the fort, where she soon arrived, bringing safely their cargo and all the missionaries. The doctor, on his arrival at the fort, had, through the kindness of Dr. McLaughlin, sent a despatch to Mr. Jason Lee, superintendent, requesting him to meet and escort the party to his station, southward about seventy miles distant, on the Willamette. The day following the coming of their friends from Asto- ria, there was a storm of wind, and in the midst of it they descried two canoes, laboring with great difficulty up the river, and by the aid of his glass. Governor McLaughlin an- nounced that Mr. Lee was approaching. Hereupon, signif- icant, mischievous glances were cast at Miss Pitman, and many remarks made not a little teazing and provoking. She bore it well, though not without some shrinking. They all sat in a room commanding a view of the gate, and soon saw from it Mr. Lee approaching with enormous strides ; he asw over six feet in height, broad shouldered, slightly bent, and TlLS YKXHH IN OUI-(J ON. 67 I an- Gfnif- and She y all sa\r asvr and somowhiit unijainly in his nations. Ah he came forward, each opened upon Miss Pitniiin a prrtty sevrre firo of rail- lory, till sjio became eonsidenibly ugituted. He entered the room, and was introduced by Mr. McLaughlin to Dr. White. They greeted each other cordi;dly, and he, in turn, pres(;nt- cd him to the others, re.icrving Miss Pitman till the last , and when they met, a shower of smiling looks wore turned \ipon lier. She exerted h(M\self to throw oft' her embarrass- ment. A light blush rose to her cheek, and a slight trepi- dation, which a(ld<'d to the charm of her manner, was all the evidence that she was conscious of any peculiarity in her position. That Mr, TiCe was pleased, could be easily discov- •»red from the complaisance of his bearing, and the trouble he took to render himself a<>;reeable. The next afternoon the expedition started for their final destination. Captain Hinckley made himself very officious in the arrangements, which was accounted for from the fact that his wife was to accompany them. Each person had their place assigned them, and poor Miss Pitman found her- self with Mr. Lee, the last to leave the shore. She stood in much embarrassment, depending upon the captain for a seat ; and the spectators now found what had made him so active, for he handed her to a canoe where there were none but natives, unable to comprehend a word of English, and seat- ed Mr. Lcc by her side for a two days' joumoy. It was a severe joke upon both, for it was not only in the presence of the missionaries, but of all tl\e English residents of the fort, and f-^'iy well understood i', as could plainly be seen from the ready smiles that circukted from face to face of the whole company. It was a fine afternoon, and the little caravan pushed off cheerily. During their voyage, racing aitorded them much amuee- I J;ll 'If- » ' i I 66 TEN YEARS IX ORKGON. I, ■* V ,»• ment. They were accompanied by Mr. Whitcomb, from t ic Sandwich Islands, wlio had been officer of a vessel, and Mr. Wilson, and they were both good rowers. Mr. Lee prided himself on his skill, and with reason, too, for after long and doubtful contests he would come off vic- tor, and it was jokingly conceded that he 'was just the man for superintendent ; as, in spite of all efforts to the contrary, he would take the lead. Till sunset, they travelled merrily on, — the boats passing and repassing, sometimes so closely that their jolly crews could join hands, — when ihey put into a little nook to encamp for the night. Here they found a beautiful oak orchard grove, and made preparations to rest under its pleasant shade. They made a supper of salmon, potatoes, bread, nice but- ter, and tea, after which T.iey gave themselves the pleasure of a stroll on the lawn, as it might be termed ; short prairie grass, which grew very delicately, in the shadow of the trees. They loitered on till they leached a gentle eminence, from which they ha:l a superb view of a broad lake-like pond, its bosom literally teeming with geese, wild ducks and swans. At eleven o'clock the next day, after a delightful sail, they arrived at the falls of the Willamette. These arc about thirty-eight feet in height, and are situated in a ro- mantic spot, is one of the finest aud most eligible places for water privileges in Oregon. It is, and perhaps ever will bo, famed in Indian annals for being the scene of events dear to the recollection of the red man. It seems the country about the falls was once inhabited by a tribe, at the head of which Avas a chief, whose standing was similar to that of dictator. He was noted far and wide for his great powers of mind, and, unlike his race, was kind I tS ! ' I'll TEN VEAnS IN OUEGOK. dd I and generous to his people, and never restricted or infringed upon their rights, and studied to gratify them in (^vory re- spect consistent with what he conceived to be liis duty. His noble nature revolted at every thing like despotism, and yet he ruled his subjects perfectly through their affec- tions. They loved him as they would have done a dear father. He was, in fact, their idol ; and to him were ren- dered honors as were never before granted a sinyle chieftain in the western world. When he attended council, he was borne thither upon a mat litter, on the shoulders of eight men. Indeed, could they have had their will, he never would have gone abroad except in the arms of his subjects. What is most singular, this affection and reverence never di- minished, and his latter years were cheered by the soothing cares of his faithful friends. It is said to be about seventy years since this chief expired, and he is still in tradition re- membered and deeply mourned by the scattered remnant of his tribe. These are but few, for while living peacefully on the banks of the Willamette, they in some manner incurred the displeasure of a neighboring tribe, who came upon them, and in a single night destroyed large numbers, and they have never since regained their former prosperity. This event is supposed to have taken place some lifty-six years since. At this place the travellers were detained till one o'clock bar- gaining with the Indians, whom they found encamped in large numbers, to transport their canoes and b;iggage round the falls, over the steep, craggy rocks, whi(;h was too tedious and difficult a task for themselves to undertake. At last they agreed to do it for each five charges of ammunition, and in addition a large cotton handkerchief for their chief. The portage was made, and they were again afloat, now on the Willamette, and shortly pas>od Elk Bluff, a precipice Hi hi 70 TEN YE Alts IN OKEGON. M seven hunnred feet in height. About sunset they reached Pudding river, a tiihutary to the WiHamette, and Hgain en- camped as on the previous night. In an early day, those who passed through the country, were obh'ged to travel in hirge companies, on account of the number and hostility of the natives. One of these parties, of the Hudson's Bay Company, had been reduced to great extremities, almost starvation, and with difficulty reached this place for encamp- ment. Here their sufferings were so great that they were obliged to slay their horses for sustenance. Of the blood they made puddings, and hence the name of ihe river. The ne.Yt morning they were again off in high glee, ex- pecting soon to reach a final landing. They arrived at Bat- tens de porte, McKoy's, at eight o'clock A. M , where they were to obtain horses, and make the remainder of the jour- ney by land. This old hunter, Avho had accompanied Mr. Hunt across the Bocky Mountains, iji the service of John Jacob Astor, received them with nobI<% warm hearted hos- pitality, truly pioneer-like. Here Mr. Lee received a lettar from Mr. Daniel Lee, sta- ting that no less than twelve persons lay sick at the mission, and some dangerously, begging Dr. White to hasten forward 1ft ith all possible despatch. Accordingly, Mrs. Hinckley, Miss Duwning, Mis.s Pitm;in, Dr. White, and Mr. Wilson, started for the mission, si.xtcen miles distant, leaving Mrs. White and the otliers to follow at a less liipid rate. Tliey continually found features of country entirely new to ^hem. Here were broad prairies, covered ^Yith fine, nutn- tious grass, its greatest height not more than six inches, studded thicklv with the most delicatelv beautiful flowers tlioy had ever seen. They were idl lovev< of in 'are in her I TEN YEARS IN ORKGON'. 71 bt auty, and now had their fill of that kind of enjoyment, which is derived from contemplating her in her mildest mood and loveliest dress. About the middle of the day they arrived at their desti- nation, the ladies somewhat wearied with their long ride. Passing round the corner ol a wood, they came in view of a large log house, at which a boy, who had met them on their way, pointed, saying, in broken English, "dat de mission." As they approached, a tall, fine looking man, in a brown liiicn frock, apparently about thitty-five years of age, came from the house. He started back on seeing them, and the blood rushed to his face, but it was too late to retreat, and he accordingly advanced to meet them. " Is that Mr. Shep- herd ?" mischievously whispered Mrs. Hinckley to Miss Downing, Mr. Shepherd's bride elect. " It must be Mr. Daniel Lee," returned she. However, she soon introduced him as Mr. Shepherd. The contrast in the dress of the two was laughably stri- king, and the purturbed face of the gentleman showed thai he was aware of it. She had attired herself neatly and prettily, while he was clothed as I have mentioned. How- over, his apology was that he was not aware that they were quite so near. There were no ladies at the mission, so that he was obliged to make all the preparations for the expected arrival, and had apparelled himself according to his business. The day was an era in the lives of our friends, and had not the number of sick demanded all their attention, their minds would have been engrossed by the reflection that their two thousand two hundred miles' journey was at length ended, and sombre forests and wide prairie were now to be their home for years, if not for life. They had often wondered, as the two Lees and Mr. Shep • m ttf TEN YEARS IN OREGOK. herd had kept bachelor's hall for several years, whether they would not be embarrassed in theu* arrangements, by the presence of ladies, and the thoughts again returned to their minds, as they awaited the dinner hour. The table was laid with a tidy brown linen cloth, bright tin plates, knivess and forks, and they parte ok with much zest of fried venison, sausages, cheese, unbolted bread, butter and fried cakes, all (}{ Mr. Shepherd's manufacture, and very nice. At desserL ihey were regaled with a bountiful dish of strawberries. II 1 - \ I TEN YEARS IN ORKGON. 73 ii CHAPTER VIII. ■ \ Mr. Daniel Lee — Stroll in the garden — lis beauty — AccommoJatlons — Mission children — Names — Su'feringfj of the chief — Improvements Miss Pitman and Mr. Lee — The two marriages. Just as they were sitting down to dinner, Mr. Daniel Lee entered the house and gave them a warm greeting. As he had been watching with the sick the night previous, thinking to shake off his dullness, he had wandered into the prairie, and after plucking a few berries, had thrown him- self down under a tree and fallen asleep, where he had re- mained several hours, which was the reason for his not ma- king his appearance sooner. His language was enthusiastic, as he spoke of the benefit likely to accrue from the rein- forcement to the mission, and his glowing expressions cheered a,nd encouraged them in no small degree. This gentleman was the nephew of Jason Lee, and had accompanied him on his first expedition to the Rocky Mountains ; these two be- ing the first missionaries ever sent to that country. After the repast, they rambled through the garden, ac- companied by Mr. Lee and half a dozen of the mission cliil- drcn. It was kept with more taste and neatness than the one at the fort, although that was older, and therefore its fruits more advanced ; but the vegetables and flowers were (]uite as luxuriant and various. They were afterwards often amused by Gov. McLaughlin sending a huge beet, or a few rare specimens of fruit to Mr. Shepherd, challenging him to w> il t J I » ' 74 TEN YEAKS IN OllKOON. |)i\>duce their equal, wliich ho more frequently excelled than otherwise. The sick were strewed about the floor of the house on mats and blankets, from which might be inferred that they were not well accommodated ; but their conveniences were a>s good as could be supphed in the small space occupied, for there were fifty-four whites and Indians together, under the roof, during the summer months, and the mansion wa« not of extraordinary dimensions, being forty feet by eigh- teen. It would be supposed that the general health would suffer in consequence ; but it did not. The mission children have been mentioned, and we will now return to them. There were, at that time, thirty-eight of them, principally orphans, which these benevolent men had rescued from great destitution, and were educating and instructing in the arts of civilized life, and some of them had made considerable advancement. For a time after their in- stalment with the Avhites, it was said they would exhibit all the restlessness characteristic of the race, and wander off to the prairies, often causing their kind protectors more trouble to retain than to feed and clothe them. Several were named after very grave individuals, such as Elijah Hcdding. William Brooks, Nathan Bangs and Wilbcr Fisk. The ca- reers of some of these were very eventful, especially Wil- liam Brooks, who died in the states, and Elijah Hedding ; but I will speak of thera more fully another time. The night after the arrival of the new recruit, Dr. White was called to minister to a great chief, named Sonick, about two miles distant, who had een shot, while sleeping, by a slave ; one ball carrying away a part of the under jaw, an- other wounding his breast, and a third entering his elbow and lodging in the palm of the hand. lie was terribly mutila- TEN YKAKS IN OKEGOX. 75 '»■■ '• U:J, and till excepting the doctor dcspiiired of hi^^ life, and he only entertaining a hope from his losing such a quantity of blood, thereby preventing inflammation. His physical sufferings were great, but his mental torture inexpressible, buing in continual fear that his enemy would yet hunt him out and murder him. He lingered a long time and finally recovered, but a most pitiable looking object. A few weeks subsequent, a sickness began to be prevalent ; and the doc- tor suspecting that it was caused by impure atmosphere, on carefully examining, found that large quantities of vegetable matter, Avhich had been washed up by a river freshet, was in a state of decomposition. Also, about three hundred yards in front of the house, was a thick clump of wood, which prevented a free circulation of air from the prairie in its rear. With the help of the boys this was remedied, and the general health soon improved. They did not remove I lie timber entirely, but climbed into the trees, and with their hatchets lopped the branches, thereby accomplishing the object, and sparing the noble trees, which they were un- willing to sacrifice. This grove has connected with it many interesting associ- ations. Araoni; them are the marna'ain, he refused to relinquish a project so nearly afl'ecting his interest. Mr. Lee stated the case to his friends, and represented to them the vast amount of evil promising to accrue from t!:o establishment. He enlisted their feelings, and, although so little ablt; to do so, they raised a considerable sum of money, and laid it before ^fr. Yoiuig for his acceptance, provided he relinquislicd the en- terprise. He was considerably affected by this expression, and informed Mr. Lee that if such was the sense of the com- munity on the subject, he would not so far trespass on it as to persist in his design. He iimediately did as he had promised, notwithstanding he liad completed the building, raised the arch and set the boiler, soon afterward embarked with about twenty of his neighbors in an expedition to Cal- ifornia for cattle, as, with the exception of those brought in by the Hudson's Bay Company, the country was quite desti- tute. This was really a virtuous triumph, ci'editable to both parties. Mr. Lee's reasons for his course, at, so early a pe- riod, were that it was the custom of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany to present a few gallons of liquor to the head of each family every holiday, especially Christmas aiid New Years. This had been attended with pernici(jus effects, ruinous to the health and peace of the inhabitants. In some instances, the brawls so produced, almost resulted in murder ; at one time a woman lay insensible thirty days, brought to the point of death by the nand of her drunken husband. Mr. Lee was desirous of discourtenancing this practice, as far as pes- ■4r1 TKN YEARft IN OUKOOK. 79 'ecarious situation, almost immediately dropped asleep. His dreams he did not remem- ber, and on waking, and judging from the time of day dawn he must have remained there about three hours, and from having so long sat in the same position, exposed to the cold, he was thoroughly chilled and benumbed. He descended with great difficulty, and when attempting by friction to re- store circulation to his arms, he found them more than the rest of his frame void of sensation. Fear of wild animals for some time deterred him from leaving the tree ; but he was convinced that if he remained in his present lodging, he must surely be chilled to death before morning, and chose rather to secure even a doubtful chance of safety. He could not kindle a fire, but some means must be resorted to to se- cure himself from danger from beasts ; and he therefore groped about the ground, collecting brush and fern. He then threw himself down on the roots of a tree, and cov- ering his form with these materials, as with a blanket, with the useful saddle for a pillow, once more composed himself to rest. In a little while the sleeper was startled by the cry of some wild animal, probably of the wild-cat species, which continued to echo round him in all directions, and a certain 't t 84 TEW TKARa IN ORECTOK, reflection connected with this did not tend to soothe his fears. He knew he must be some where in tlie vicinity of a spot, tlie scene af an anecdote he had often heard related by one of his nearest neighbors. This man stated that he had been attacked, in open day^ by a dozen large wolves, and only escaped by clambering into the roots of a tree which Providence seemed to liave thrown in his way, and with the contents of his gun, killing five of them. This was as credible as one lialf the hunter stories, told to wonder-seeking " verdant ones ;" and one thing is certain, that he then believed it quite as much as he did the next morning, with the light of the sun around him, and when morning come, which was Sabbath, probably entertained fewer scruples than ever before, with regard to Sunday travelling — this one in particular — and in due time placing the saddle upon his horse, which had remained un- harmed, again mounted. The trail, as on the night previous, was very obscure, be- ing much obstnicted by fallen timber, and his progress was slow. Between nine and ten o'clock he began to ascend a higli hill, or rather mountain, and after an hour's struggling and panting up the difficult steep, he began, from the at- mosphere, to suspect he was nearing the Pacific Ocean in- stead of the settlement. This was not a pleasant reflection, as the Indians upon that part of the coast were particularly hostile and treacherous. For some time the bewildered man toiled on, seeing no end to difficulties, till by the appearance of the sun in the heavens he was convinced that he was go- ing in decidedly the wrong direction, and determined taking the orb for his guide to wheel about and retrace his steps if possible, and doing so, slrango as it may seem, six hours later found him upon the banks of tht Willamette, a short p TBN YEARS IN OREGON^. 85 distance from the spot whence lie sat out on his ill-staiTcd journey. Here he stood after twenty-four hours, wandering in truly wo-begor.e pliglu, uncertain what course to pursue, as he migh; remain there for weeks and not a canoe pass, or meeting with any opportunity to reach home. The pony was completely fatigued, utterly unable to bear him farther, and himself in little better condition, even had he known what direction to take. His cogitations were most painful, but he had indulged them but a brief space when far down the river he heard the faint stroke of a paddle. It was re- peated, and now the only anxiety was whether it was going from or coming towards him. A few moments, and a canoe rounded a point, and came directly towards him, and to his joy, he discovered its occupant to be one of his neighbors. Mrs. Bilake, a youth named Lucia, and an Indian crew. As they approached to within a very short distance, Mrs. B. till then scarcely recognizing th>3 stranger, elevated both hands, and in broken English — for she was a half-breed — exclaimed " Call masica chareo." " Is it you, my friend ?- where did you come from?-is it you, toctor?" He replied to the good woman that if she would but give him a bite of something to eat she sliould know the whole. She raised both hands as before, and with a look of consternation, in- formed him that they had been absent from home a week, and expecting to reach home that evening, had eaten their last remnant of food about half a mile below. Observing the petitioner's look of blank disappointment, which was very pitiable, she remarked that her nephew had shot a duck just before, and enquired if he could eat it without any kind of seasoning. The doctor Avas a little surprised, not to say ihagrined, at such a question at a moment that he oiuld et'gerly devour any thing that wa^s eatable, and rc- ; 5 " .4 n 86 TBN YEARS IN OREGON. plied instanter, without considering the sex of his hstener, " Why, yes, feathers and all !" She laughed merrily at the oddity of the expression, and said in her own language, " O that is too bad, but I guess we can fix you something." Accordingly, the fowl was stiipped, quartered, and prepa- red for the kettle ; and although the fire burned briskly, it was then, if ever, that the hungry man realised the truth of the trite saying, " A watched pot never boils." When it was done, he seized upon it, and never was duck despatched in less time by one person ; and it was a most delicious mor- sel, for it seemed but a morsel. While thus engaged, his kind friend prepared for him a bed in the canoe, and she af- terwards used to laugh as she told that his head had hardly touched the blanket pillow, ere he was snoring lustily. They arrived at her residence about midnight, and had hardly stepped inside the door, when she called a slave boy, and commanded him to catch up the race-horse immediately. Meanwhile she set before her visitor, milk, pork, potatoes and bread, and he had just finished a hasty repast, when the horse galloped into the yard. Mrs. Bilake then led him to the door, and with a tearful eye, and quivering lip, said, "Mrs. White is not far from frightened to death about you. I have ordered a good horse irr you, do not spare him, re- turn to your family is fast as he can carry you." With a grateful heart he mounted ; the gallant steed bounded off' in the calm light of a full moon ; and. about three o'clock he arrived at the mission, and enjoyed the happiness of embra- cing his family, who had become very much r.Iarmed at hLs prolonged absence. TEN YEARS IN OIIEGON. 87 hLs CHAPTER XI. Ladies' employments — Hard Fare — Mr. Leslie's arrival, and also Mr. Perkins's — Close quarters— New house — Hearth — Wolves — Doctor White treed — Mrs. White's weapon — Cowardice of the animals- The two species of wolves — Anecdotes — Antelope hunt or "cir> cling" — Swarming — Marriage of Miss Johnson and Mr. Perkirs-- Winter rains — Missionary meeting — Political convention — Mr T 'a return to the United States — Ileason.s — Missionay eflTorts at the Dalles — Revival at the missic".- -Startling report-— Death of Mrs. Lee and her babe — Drowing of George — His former escape from death on the Seneca Lake — Mrs. Whitman's little girl drowned — Coincidence. DuRTVG the summer the ladies divided their labors as follows: Miss Johnson taught the school, Mrs. Shepherd attended to the cutting, making, and repairing of the chil- dren's clothing. Mrs. White and Mrs. Lee were made over- seers of the cooking, and other domestic matters ; though the cooking was not very laborious or extensive, as the fare that season consisted of salt salmon, some pork, pea soup, and once a week bread, and as often butter. On the tenth of September, Mr. Leslie arrived at the mission with his wife and three interesting little daughters. He was accom- panied by Mr. Perkins, to whom Miss Johnson was be- trothed. There was some difficulty in accommodating the new comers, but they were obliged to enter the house with the old inmates, already numerous. This enlarged the fam- ily to sixty members, and made Mrs. White anxious to re- move to their own house, which they did in a few days, al- ■' t 88 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. though it was not in a fit condition for inhabitants. There was no chimney in it, and but roof enough to cover a bed ; a few loose boards for a floor, and one sidf- was entirely un- enclosed. As nearly all their cooking utensils were yet at Fort Vancouver, they were obliged to boil the meat and potatoes in a tin kettle, in the open air. However, the chimney was soon built, and as there Avas no suitable stone within several miles, the hearth was made of clay and ashes, which, after drying, became meiusurably, though not per- fectly, hardened. But one of Mrs. White's greatest domes- tic privations was, that she could never wash her hearth, as in this country ; for, even by sweeping, it Avould have to be removed every two or three months. In a few days the roof was completed, the house sided, and their dwelling made very comfortable. After this, their greatest annoyance was the howling of wolves about the house during the nights. This seemed particularly frightful, as they were in rather a lonely situa- tion, being at a mile's distance from any habitation, and the doctor was often absent. One nicfht he left home to visit Mr. Shepherd, who was ill, and some of the sick mission children. At the time, Mrs. White was expecting his re- turn about seven o'clock, she suddenly heard a burst of pro- longed howls, in ar their infernal variety, from the fine bark of the young to the hoarse yell of the elder wolves. She ran to the door and found that tliey came from the direction in which she supposed her husband to be. In the most ab- solute terror, she besought the two hired men to fly to his rescue. They laughed at her fears, and endeavored to rea- son her to composure. But the horrid din continued, and fancying jhe also heard a faint cry, she was unable to re- strain her excited feelings, and snatching up a long pair of i TEK YEARS IN OREGON. 89 cooper's compasses, she sallied out into the prairie, accom- panied by the men, armed with rifles. They ran swiftly, and in a few moments came near a large tree, around whicii were congregated a number of the monsters, in full chorus. At sight, the cowards retreated, and were soon beyond hearing, seemingly conscious »^f the approach of one possessing more lawful claim to their intended victim than themselves — sneaking off, apparently ashamed and crest fallen. The doctor descended from his retreat, as much panic stricken a5 his rescuers. This he did not deny. He informed them that he had sat out from the mission determined to face every danger, with the fortitude becoming a man. On first starting, he picked up a large stick, and as he walked along, Quixote-like, brandished it valiently, with thoughts that it would be quite as well for the Avolves to keep at respectful distance, if they wished to preserve unbroken heads. But when one of the dastards came within six feet of him, and by its call gathered others to the pursuit, he dropped his stick, and plied his heels with admirable dexterity, till the tree offered its friendly shelter, when he hallooed for help with all the force of his lungs. But in spite of his fears, he could not help smiling, when, on descending from the branches, he met Mrs. White, bearing the formidable wea- pon, with which she might have done such good service, if the varmints had only been in less haste to be gone. The wolves of Oregon are divided into two classes : The prairie wolf is little larger than the common fox, somewhat resembling it, and is inoffensive, except in the destruction of poultry, pigs, and the young of herds. It is very common. The others are three or four times larger than this, and ap- parently altogether a different species. They are exceed- ingly voracious, and when banded together, in the night sen- ;c ■s-»_ 90 TKK YJBARS I^ OREGOK. son, fearfully formidable, often following herds of elk, wild horses, and buflFaloes, as dogs do sheej) in this country, sel- dom desisting till they have destroyed great numbers. One or two instances will serve to illustrate their indomitable per- severance : One of these creatures pursued a noble stag, till overcome by fright and fatigue, it sought refuge in the mission yard, where the boys were milking. Another time, a party of seventy men of the Hudson's Bay Company, were at ren- dezvous, when a large, beautiful deer fled into the camp, chased by a wolf, and actually hid its head between the knees of one of the men, as if trustingly imploring protec- tion. Its fear of the savage foe banishing its shyness of thehuman race. Afier the new arrivals, the old hive, as the mission house might be called, was too full for the convenience of its ten- ants, and sent forth several swarms hi the course of a few weeks. Mr. Beers occupied a new house; Mr. Leslie an- other ; leaving Mr. Whitcomb, and the famiUes of Messrs. Lee and Shepherd, in sole possession of the mansion. Mr. Perkins and Miss Johnson were soon married. The wedding took place at Mr. Leslie's, and was a very precise and genteel affiiir. The new couple took up their residence with Mr. Leslie. Thus they were all finally settled snugly in their new homes. The community was now quite large, and its members would have derived much enjoyment from each other's society, had not the falling of w inter rains al- most entirely cut off neighborly intercourse. Although the summers are so delightful and salubrious, the winters are extremely irksome and disagreeable, not from the falling of deep snow, as in this state, but the continuous, soaking rains. TE5 YEARS IN OKEGON. 91 Tliere were some circumstances, however, which served to make the time pass less tediously ; one of which was a mis- sionary meeting on Christmas, the first of the kind convened in the country. Although it was a wet day, and there was considerable of a freshet, there were many assembled, and two hundred and forty-three dollars subscribed for the cause. This may seem singular, as tliere were so few inhabitants ; but their hearts were in it, and though enjoying little, save what was necessary for their comfort, each freely gave their mite ; some who used dried deer skins for window hghts in- stead of glass, coming forward and contributing from five to twenty dollars. However, do not let it be supposed, that these persons were really poverty stricken ; for you must remember, that they were far beyond the Rocky Mountains, where many of the conveniences, indeed, nearly all, could not be conveyed. They were not unable to purchase them, for many of them possessed herds and grains in considerable abundance. During the winter, there was a convention for gettmg up a petition to the United States Government to extend juris- diction over the colony. It is but just to say, that the re- sult of that movement, and all subsequent petitions, has been, as was predicted by some on that day, to draw upon Oregon hundreds of imigrants, many from the western fron- tier of the states, of a restless, aspiring disposition, save that, in the spring of 1847, mails were for the first sent to that country at Government expense. It is to be regretted that goverment has never taken any formal action to avail the colonists in the least, in their diffi- cult and dangerous position. Mr. Lynn's bill, proffering a portion of land to each mail settler, has oscillated between house and senate the last six years, keeping the settlers in 03 TEN YEAIIS IN OREGON. suspense between hope and fear. But I am wandering, and must return to the spring of 18.18. The rainy season closing, prcpar.ations were made for Mr. Lee's return to tlie State's, ostensibly for a reinforcement, although such a recruit came in the year previous. Bui there was territory enough to be occupied by four times the number already there. However, there was another object in view in sending him out. It was the unanimous opinion that he had been long enough rusticated in the woods, and that it would be advisable for him to return home, if but for a short time, in the hope that commingling once more with polished society, would result advantageously to himself and the mission, of which he was superintendent. A short time after his departure, Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr. Perkins commenced missionary operations at the Dalles of the Columbia, nearly a hundred miles from Fort Vancouvci'. There the great reformation was effected, of which Mr. Per- kins gave such a glowing, melting description to the Amer- ican public. There was also a revival of religion at the mis- sion, which for a time produced a happy change among the youth and American residents. Indeed, Mr. Lee's absence was an eventful period, for it now happened that Mr. Thom- as J. Hubbard a second time started for California for herds, with about twenty of the neighboring men, and in three weeks the news returned by Mr. La Fromboy, of the Hud- son's Bay Company, that they had been attacked by the Chestc Indians, and every one killed. The emotions of the families of the party may be imagined, but not described. An awful gloom spread over the colony. They hoped it might be a false report, and .vaited long for a relief to their anxiety, when one day they heard the firing of guns at some distance from the mission, on the opposite side of the river. ' TEN VKAU8 IxV OREGOIV. 9$ Thoy hastened in the direction of the sound, and to their infinite joy found nearly all the party they liad feared were slain. They had been defeated by the savages, driven out of their way, and wandered about in the mountains, some of tlicm suffering severely from their wounds. ►Soon after this an event transpired more generally mourn- ed than any other during Mr. Lee's absence, and nearly concerning him. It was Mrs. Lee's death, which occurred after a short illness. Iler young son died in two or three days after, and they were buried together in the grove wiierc the mother was married scarce a year previous. Neither were Dr. and Mrs. White without their personal afflictions, for there they buried George, their adopted son, who was drowned while attempting to cross the Willamette river on horseback. The current was very rapid, and it was supposed he became giddy, for he turned the horse's head down stream, and, becoming entangled in the saddle, was drowned and carried away, before his companion, an Indian, could reach him. He narrowly escaped a similar fate the day they left Havana for New York, to start for Oregon. He was rambling thoughtlessly about the boat, when he ac- cidentally fell overboard, and was recovered with some dif- ficulty. He was dear to them as an own child, and they lamented their loss with heartfelt sorrow. By his side, also, they laid their little Jason, an infant of eleven months, which was likewise drowned, when Mrs. White so miracu- lously escaped Avith her own life, while on an excursion down the Columbia river. It was the season that Dr. Whitman's little daughter was drowned in the Wallawalla, a i ibutary of the Columbia ; and what made it a more remarkable coincidence, was, that \ K IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h / K <" 1.0 I.I |9« 2f 144 i 2.5 2.2 IL25 i 1.4 1^ 1.6 PhotDgraphic Sciences Corporation fV '^ \ :\ '\ ^ ' ; W«;s . MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^^ '% m m u TBN YEARS IN OREGON. these two children were the first bom son and daughter of Oregon. It was truly a summer of singular events, — ^the greatest revival, and the greatest number of deaths that occurred during the same length of time of their stay in Oregon. i TKN YEARS IN OREGON. 96 CHAPTER XII. A call from the Dalles — Mrs. White, Mr. Leslie, and Dr. Bailey set out for that station-Return to the Cascados— Salmon party— Vint among the natives — The ageu turned off to die — Portage — Visit to an Indi- an burial place — Dead houses — War club — Re-embark — Swift Cur- rent—- Conversation — Disaster — Struggles for breath — Mr. Leslie's statement — Canoes — Conducted to the shore — The lifeless babe — Arrival at th j Fort — Reach the falls of the Willamette — Strangers — Unhappy night — Reach home — Letters. I BELIEVE that an account of Mrs. White's adventure on the Columbia river has been published, but perhaps it may now be interesting to some of my readers. When Mr. Per- kins went to the Dalles, his wife accompanied him ; and soon after Dr. W. received from him a letter, stating that she was dangerously ill, earnestly requesting himself and lady to come to them immediately. This threw them into some con- sternation, as he was unavoidably detained at home, and it was almost equally necessary that Mrs. W. should also re- main. There was a meeting of the members of the mission, and, considering the peculiarly lonely situation of their friend, among a strange people, with, as he supposed, a dying wife, it was decided that Mrs. W. and Mr. Leslie should go, and Dr. Bailey in the doctor's stead. This was the first time that the doctor and Mrs. White had been separated for any lengthy period, and as they said farewell, a sad presenti- ment of evil beemed burthening their hearts. However, the voyagers reached their destination in safety, and remaining ft :'f U' 90 TEN TEARS IN OREOOK. [.%• ' Hi .>\.P; till Mrs. P. was recovering, then sat out on their return, Dr Bailey staying behind. They reached the cascades without accident, and tUere en- camped. Here they found an extensive salmon ground, and on tho banks of the river were hundreds of the natives, dry- ing and pulverising the fish for winter use. The next morning was nuny, and they were detained be- yond their usual hour for raising camp, and as Mrs. White had nothing to amuse herself about, she visited among tlie village, talked as well as she could Avith the women, and in- spected their labors. Here she saw the only instance of deserting old people to die, that she had ever witnessed, though she had ofton heard of the practice among certain tribes. On a hill at some dis- tance from the village, she found several aged persons stretched upon the ground ; and by one poor creature par- ticularly, Mr. Leslie and herself stood with painful emo- tions. She lay upon the brow of the hill, within a foot of the verge, probably so placed that she might be out of the path, where a slight motion would precipitate her over the descent. A cold, drizzling rain descended upon her, and her only covering was a single small skin. A short distance from this place it was custom^^y to make a portage of about three miles ; and they began it about eleven o'clock. During the walk they visited a very curious burial place. This tribe disposed of thoir dead differently from any other with which the visitors were acquainted, placing them in liouses from eight to twelve feet square. There were three or four of these huts, and they saw through the aperatures between the barks, the bodies rolled in mats, and swung one above another. TEN YEARS IN OREOON. 97 n e On the ground, near one of the houses, half buried in leaves, Mrs. W. found a sin^Milar and beautifully carved war club, which she intended carrying away ; but Mr. Leslie in- terfered, declaring it would be highly imprudent to do so ; for, if any of the tribe discovered its absence, they would certainly suspect and pursue them ; so she was obliged to replace it, though with great reluctance. After they had travelled about two miles of the portage, they saw a couple of canoes launch into the river, and they yielded to the entreaties of the crew, who disliked carrying the baggage so far, confiding in their knowledge of the rlvev and re-embarked. They were glad to do so, for they had traversed woods and rough surface, and with wet feet and fatigue were very uncomfortable. Mrs. White in a few moments observed that they had gained the middle of the stream, and that the current was very rapid, and said to Mr. Leslie, " in case we upset, what shall we do ?" He replied cheerfully and promptly, " I can soon tell what / would do. I would cling to the canoe." " Well," said she, " how very helple'^s is a female with a babe," and the words had scarce escaped her lips, when, from P slight swing of the canoe, which was heavily laden, and low in the water, possibly striking a rock, it filled and instantly went down. When the water came up round them, the child started convulsively in its mother's arms, and gave a piercing shriek, and Mr. Leslie exclaimed, " Oh God, we're lost!" When the canoe rose it was free from its burthen, and bottom upwards, and Mrs. White found herself directly be- neath it, painfully endeavoring to extricate hereelf, and en- during dreadful agony in her struggle for breath. Despair- ingly, she felt herself again sinking, and coming in contact 1 .1 i ■■' r" ^s T^tt X¥^^ U^ QAEQOK. '.y- • wHh,.i;be lh»bs of apersion in th,e watQr, th^jrQflec^ipn, fitted ,acr(>ss ,ber;lHrw», /'..I Jiave done wit^ p)y labors? for these pour ItdiAHs. Wejl,; all will be o^^er ,in a, mtimmU but how will'-my ppor. mother feeli vfhenahe learns my jrwful faite ?" i;,, Mr. I^lieaftejfwardsr stated thatj^e, h*d i^o reQoUectipn lillb^iPOse, and Btrove to Jjeep abave wftter ; ^t.ag^n sank, utterly hopeless of swwpr. He Jcpse,^gain just(as4;he (?anoc, .paa%^ lounid a jb^ge yocjf,, its pyowwaathirQT 'a, within his . react. Hp^ clutched it with eagei; joy, , awl. supported him- self a, i^EiQ^})^, , gasping for b^eaUi, . wh^n he : suddenly ,^hoi^ht 9f his, fellow^ pa$senger,r.^d.,l^he,.ex(4^m^ion ran throygh, hi^i.minfl, " what wiU; thef49ctor,;say ?" He in- ^nt^y lowered himself in (tbi? water as.iar aspp8sible>.and still clinging, with one :baiul,igrpp/ed about.^S'W^ll as hQ was ^able, wheq;, *as, proyideuca,>f^9j^ j^^, hegrasped: her dre^s, and su^eededdn raising , her to ith^fa^fu^face^ By this ..tkfie the Jojdian^SrPf pert swimnii^,,hait)ireacbedft^e canoe ; . .and with, their assistance he suppori^4< hi^iinsen^blet bui^hen, ' ajii(fl| jplaoi^d her, h«ad ,npon ihe . bot?b«Pa»/^ith her fjkce just .: o]a1^<)f,tb.er,iwater. After a few^nvwoients she; gaspe4 feebly, ,4^4, opening. her, §yes, her,firstJW,ord§-were^ "Oh, Mr^JI|^fls- ije^ Tye Jk>st jny child!" f',Pray>,; de thought^" f,«aid.JN5» .^apdJet vis.;1i?y:to,s^veQursplv^s." if; ,.? vfoi Uiv itix^^te' W^ V^M a longiwayf4i(rwatheTivervPQ(p»9spect ..<)^eijffiig fpf.l^w neiU^f . At length, they espied, fiaT-rah^ftd, ...Jkh^tw.Qt^ajwes w^^cjb, had, ejwterfd.thq. river bcfore.;^pj, oc- cupied, as it proved, by an Indian chief and liis attendi^iiats. K^r.,Jyi^S%^allop^d;to them yyith ^U hisremai^g strwgth, .ipndi ^yjJwi^nfidi ,t9,w*rd^ .tjjem, ^r^t ^tQjyping. M^rij^if^ »V ,^hfi 4i^nk^ , wdr % fewTy Qtber ,ttwg^»' w-hichi f^^ #a^4< iiow" it S i *-!^ I TEN YEARS IX <5RE<30N, 9 Tnuc"h exhausted, the chief cautioned them to retain their hold, without in the least clianging tlieir position, while he .1 II it '((I W«- towed them gently and carefully to the ^ore. Hertj they rested, draining the water from their clgtiies, and Mr. Leslie ;•'. ■;• ■. , '■'•• ■■}■■ I ■-: 'r.j.'ivi i K. V' /(,.. i , Imik"! fronpi his head and stopiach, for he had swallowed a vast fluantity. In half an hour the Indif^ns nghted, tnfi canoe, which had been drawn . on shore, and to their amazement, I ■ '..• •- , '111 i>'.-.::\ K,. Jji'i- !iii ii • I ' ..)) :'n\iji\in And almost terror, they founds beneath it the dead babe, ii'i'i •■••iir! -.^i'li; , 1. .•,''^.;;. T ■ ^oiji' -l) .>;.-• cU'T'.J. ,ai; wrapped in its cloak, having been kept in its place by the 4itmospheric pressure. , ., * . , , Mr. Leslie was now uncertain what course to pursu/e, and asked his companion's advice. She told nim she was desi- rpu8 of proceeding immediately to Fort Vancouver, as .they , had nothing to eat, no fire, and, in short, had lost so many of their effects, that they had nothing wherewith to make themselves comfortable, if they renaained there till even the , next day, , f * f ' ; . . , . , . Their canoe was a large, one,, being about, twenty, feet in /length, and four in breadth, -and was laden with a Dcd,,bed- \yK'if?A I'A"' .r.:»i'iti ■) lij .ii'iii'iiTi! i'u) ahu\' < 41 A\,'.:- ,-.n.:1Ljn ding, mats, two large tn^nks of clothing, kettles and dishes, .'.'i.'tiiir- !j.'. -ifj i' iuifr-'.. I'll .u 'if; w,'»fr /n v ;i.>ijin,;'< Ufa , and provisions to last .the crew throughout the iourney. and also articles of traffic with the natives, and th^y lo^t all but ./Jill.'- il/'i! Ii'i Hi! ilj;i!. liH .i;-i/ i:- »•> ■*••/', I'T ■.'>< ■ICii 'Mi the trunfcjL the contents of which .were now ; thoroughly ..soakedT . They seated themselves in the canoe, and the chief threw his only blanket over Mrs. W's shoulders, both himself and men exerting themselves to render their charges comfortable, during the thirty-six miles they were.oDliged to travelbefore , Villi! '.ffj iT-iu<'\iri ,.i'!.u .-■'■;.,■. ; li . --%»:,M,-'.r; -n.,.*'! .;:j:)ll'Xi ^reaching the fort, wliich was late in thC: evening. T^ey were mqt by Mr. Douglas, who wa§ gre^itly sho' narrative, and whose it words were, " my •i..-.r.l!l' I'd)' ' ilil'Tl ' '(i.it :!i: — -iMi'.ni ■ a; ,'.i'. ' . i- ■i..-i'-.i!i I'liJ' i ^ini'tl^ i*! what a miracle I Why, it is only a short tiihe since, in the 4» ■ I* ■. I f 100 TEN YKAR8 IN OREGON. J*tJ ;j»' »»a; U II same place, we lost a canoe, with seven men, all good swimmers." Governor McLaughlin had that year gone on a visit to England, leaving Mr. Douglas cliief factor. But here let me say, that, we cannot speak too highly of this gentleman and his lady, together with the other residents, for their kindness to their unfortunate friends. They prepared a cof- fin, and dressed the babe for interment, and afforded them every facility for reaching home, whither they were anxious to hasten immediately. The following morning the bereaved mother was quite composed. They started at eight o'clock, and with the little cofiin at their feet, travelled rapidly all day, and camped at night, just above the falls of the Willamette. They took supper, the men pitched their borrowed tents, and after a day of great fatigue, they lay quietly down to rest. In a short time, however, they were disturbed by a loud paddling, and voices ; and looking out, beheld about thirty Indians, men, women and children, in canoes, who landed and camped very near them. The arrival of the strangers inspired Mrs. W. with fear ; more, however, lest she should be robbed of her dead treasure, than for her own safety. She could hear all the noises of the camp, talking of the men, gossip of the women, and, more harrowing than all, the prattle and crying of the children, which reminded her of her own dear lost one ; and it was one of the nights of the greatest suffering she ever experienced. It was one of perfect restlessness ; for she sat silently, through the long, weary hours, with bursting heart, watching the corpse of her babe at the door of her tent. How truly solitary- ; far from mother, husband, home, and friends — surrounded by a company of strange savages, weighed down with grief. Y •■'■ TEN YEARS IN OREOON. 101 tearless from its very weight, not knowing what next would befall her. Oh, such agony as she endured through that night's dreary vigils ! She felt as though she had been obliged to drain the cup of bitter sorrow to its dregs, with- out a chance to pray that it might pass from her. They sat oflF as soon as it was light, that they might, if possible, reach the mission before putrescency had discolored the body of the infant. They arrived at McKoy's about one o'clock, where, while they were dining, horses were prepa- red, and they went on without delay. It is impossible to describe the emotions of the doctor, when he met them, about twelve miles from the mission, as, excepting a floating rumor among the natives, which he hardly credited, he had had no intimation of the accident. The sad presentiment was realized ! Death had entered their circle and robbed them of their fair child ; and as he looked into the face of his wife, he comprehended in part her suffering. Mrs. White brought with her the following letter from Mr. Bea- ver, the chaplain at the fort, to her husband : Fort Vancouver, 9 P. M., Thursday. My Dear Dr. White : " The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away" — yea, and the Lord hath preserved — " blessed be the name of the Lord." I am just come from seeing your dear wife ; bless me ! in how very diflferent a condition from that she was in at our house, only one short week ago ! And yet, she is wonderfully composed, under the circumstances of her and your bereavement. I sincerely hope, that her health will not suffer ; but that we cannot tell, till the fever of agitation has subsided. She insists on going up to-morrow, and perhaps she is right ; you will mutually console each other. I can- not speak as a father, but I think if I had suffered a similar 1 c r, n f: ^ JL <.; J O i^ ± I; ■I ■' \n '? ■ ', I •V ){•!;•.' l(/j' TEN TEARS TN OTtEaOV, \oisi t'shbutd h'^ve beeii too gratcful'to Providence for One' A -,{.) ■■',■1! '•'''■ •J'"'' •'■'/ • '. •^»-'' . • • "'' ' '"J '■''■1'^' of his most miraculous interpositions, to murmur one mo- ment at the dispensation, with whlcn he tnoiight proper t6^ afflict me. The Almighty has shown yeu how much more severely he cbwMh'ave laid on his hanci. Aiid you have 'an- otKier ieifi, and one— agaui t speak' not as a father — ^ih whom you feoth must feel riiore interest!. And yet tlie "suctmg child ! I know not wliat to say, or how to offer any con- solali'ol^, Init t^'at it B aii ' angel' in lieaveii! Thai thought ji? -i!.'! -iM iiil . i ;' -;j:'>i. 111..':./.' ■■■• . tji'.v/ /%.,il,l)'i! J> . alone must prevent us from sorrowing as those who have no hope. My wife was with me, out we stayed only a few minuses, riot being' a)ble to render any real service. We hiaa been waiting anxiously for Mr! Lesliel mtending^ to ac66in-' panytim to the Willamette, or to follow him m twd6r tfer^ee days. tendea visit lor a w^eeK or two; not tnat we nave any clini. to be // L We shall' not liaw do so,' biii snail put off" our in-" lea visit for a w^eek or two; not that we have any dism- 36 in the house of mourning, biii because, just at'nrst, avc might be in tlie way t'here. Pray seiicf us a tine by the first opporiiimty, to let us know how' Mrs. White is^ and'bblieve m^- lil/dear T>t. White, Yours, very faithfully; '^^ .'fs; ,a ».^ Friday mornini IK. P. 9. " We rejoice to fearii tlaat Mrs. Whiie has passed' a good riigUl, aria ttat her bodily healtli does not' appear to be rriaterialiy aiffecteci^; For the mind there is "Balm in GUead,** fter's will' fee much trariquilized before you meet.' lliat meeting will be ov6r before you read, tliis. Acquit yburselif Ime a man for her sake, and 6'o(l be with you, and make tbe light ot !bis couiitenahce to shine upon you. So pray your fnends, • - ^ ;: -f TK» TBA-RS IN OntTOOK.' 163 They received many letters of cohdolende from their friend's, among which was the fbllowing, brwight to them by Mi- Hall, -wtio was travelling mih hw invaiHd wiffet ItoRoluTu, Sandwich Islands, Fel). S3, 1836. Mt DsAft Sibter: ' ' I cannot allow the prdsont opportunity to pass, without writing, y oui & few Hnes at Ibast. , When you left us for your field ci hubor, I thought iimore-thaoi probable, that I should see you in -your wild- home ere this: But' you w'ill be glttd tb«t the cdUse9 wbicli isecmcd to renderr such a cireum^ance possible, are, for the present, at least, vetrioved. I now rank among the well ones of our mission^ through the blessing of our gracious and merciful Father in' He ' t n TEN TEARS IN ORKOON. 105 CHAPTER XIII. lUnen of Mr. Shepherd — Surgical operation — Singular impressions oi Mrs. White — His death — Benevolent society — Visit to Xavier's — A Mother's anguish — Burying alive — The drowned boy — Outline of Dr. Bailey's history — John Turner — A hermitage — Turner's bra- very — His seclusion. Soon after this unhappy disaster, occurred the death of Mr, Shepherd, who has before been mentioned, as on-^ of the most useful and devoted members of the mission. He went to Oregoii, from Lynn, Massachusetts, in dehcate health, being predisposed to the scrofula, having previously lost a sister by the complaint. This, after two years' severe exposure in that new country, exhibited itself in a scrofulous knee joint. After a protracted and painful illness, endured with impar- alelled patience, from the acuteness of his suffering, caused by the high state of inflammation in the affected joint, he besought Dr. White to remove the limb. This was done with all possible despatch, and notwithstanding it was " hope against hope," most of his friends looked forward to his re- covery. For fifteen or sixteen days, the operation afforded the anticipated relief, and all watched the symptoms in the beloved patient with a solicitude only second to that with which he had watched over the interests of the mission. But, alas! it was in vain; for although he was better in many respects, it was discovered that a large abscess was forming, the discharge of which convinced them that he could not long survive. In a week from that time he expi- :'«f » . ■ r ■ ■Br.'*! fr.l 1 ^ ksL m' TE>^'Vfei^RS''iN^6kE6oir.' ^4' w>:' it'' m. ■-■■ %•;; i. !■' red, and his vas a glorious death. "It seemed," as one said who was present, " as though the house was full of waiting angels, and that an almost perceptible halo was shed around the death-bed. He continually exhorted the bystan- ders to patience and pe^^civei^^^ a^d desired them not to forget to publish in the United States what delight he felt in this hofur ; thai' k& had embarked in ih» patis& elf Cbriirt and missions. S'bm:«f" of iha titwft it ims-'Sftppos^d he \i^s \^HdeHhg ; foi^'Hfe^Wils tklEri^' (;aiitihuaflty'"ig= thdugti iii tile presence of the Almighty, conversing fariiiliarly as with an old friend. Once, while watching with him, he desired Mrs. White ' tt> g^t pietal and paper,' asrid Vfit€> whUe' he dictated a l^ter to (jk>d. Shd'diid's&/>and'wmoBi|)ut« i^agialngis^;and ovdrflowiAg with* lover aasd^ ?fev6i>«ttc» fof a hbly behig.. Wliea* she had fiwishedv " now," said' H*, " f^ld'and seitti it^ up," Th©^' aoeri0 icwiginated > m H^r mind teiy smgiilair eittoi- tiong J sh6 felfc aln^voet impr^s^^th^t by tlie" d^arting spin* she might send' to ti^a^^n-som^ mess%e to'her seyaph bkb^ and dear Mii9. £6e, and even' sewfal times found hei^elf on tk» pomt of dioSng sb> ind ebligied to et&tiM^iom^ restnMBts^ t»:»vbid iti Wh^H' 1i)6 moiment of d'i^s«;^tioii appro^ohieidv the dying man extendisdbdth hi^ eihaieiaited hand$>^xe)auft* ifcgi^* from the hioet TEt: YEARS IN OREGON. truinfulwora oT Messrs. Ijee & JFroat, deiailliig' an* accouril of tliis estima'bie raari s sickness and' death':' ' .!);-i:.'!i7- -^Ifl Bui the time has come' wlien'we must part with a beloved brother aWd (^stingvushiei' iellow-laWer^ 1^^ Cfyrus Shepl>^ ^ tuai, t8o, under a load 'of bpffly infirmiiies which knew no' permanent reuef, but mcreased more and more till they ended m death, tmr brother loved society, but he was happier m domg good. In labors he was abimdant, endeavoring to do good m every way ui his power to all around him, whe^'er whites or Indians! dytieii dwL iie t^it the Iddiaii' lodge witn food, for the hungry and medicme for the sick wim the b'iesfsed' liope^oi Iiis own salvation, mflcle liim con- slaniiy *' trample' on pl'^k'^re ancf pain.** By many of* ffie' early mhabitants he will lonff be held m erateful remem- long ^' brance; but those only who laiew him from the first can place a just estimate tlipon his chai%,cter. His disease was tKe scrofula, ari^ih'^e spnng ot' IS^B'it'auafeltetf liis'Knee.' !•;* Mi" f^^v' ■IP' tiiat he wdulcl' recover. But on the coitimenc6men'^ of t^'e rainy seasca, iri the fail ot 18^9, ihe' disease forced hiin' W talce his bed, wheire, alf^er sufferirrg greatl/ ifor atoui ^y^edW days, it became necessary, as the only hope of savmg ms I'Ke, to' respr't'tot'he painful process of* ampufation. xMk } painiui p was done t)ecemt>er li, t)y'l)r. "While, assisted Iby Dr. Baf- ley aii3lSr. Wilson, fie eiiduired all witli r6mdrka6le pa- 1 :'' 108 TEK TEARS IN OREOOK. m m 'wl ■'•;■ tience and resignation. " Through all his suflerings," said his sympathizing and excellent wife, in a letter of the *22d of December, " I have not heard a murmur to escape his lips ; but in his most trying hours, he could rejoice and sing praises to God." An opportunity to forward the let- ter of which this is an extract not occurring till the 27th, he wrote me a few lines in the margin, the last his hand ever penned, which breathe the same spirit with that quoted above. Including all at the Balls station, he says, Decem- ber 2'7th : "Dear brethren and sisters — ^FeeUng a desire to say a few words to you this morning, Susan has kindly un- sealed her letter to favor my purpose. I am very feeble in body, and obliged to lie on my back from morning till night ; excepting of late I have been permitted to turn on my side, or to lie raised on my bed for a short season, to relieve the pain caused by lying in one position so long. But the doc- tor seems to think that even this, on the whole, is injurious, and discourages it. I have lain from midnight till ten o'clock, A. M., in the same position, and bear it very well. Dr. White has been very attentive indeed in my sickness, and has done all fully to satisfaction. All the brethren ai J sisters seem to take delight in exerting themselves to mani- fest their sympathy and kindness in every manner possible. I think no person under heaven ever was more kindly and faithfully attended than I have been during my sickness. Expressions of deep sympathy are pouring in from every quarter. French, Enghsh, Americans, nor must I exclude the poor Indians, have given unequivocal expressions of their sympathising love. I cannot say I think I shall get up from this bed whereon I am laid. God has dealt with me in a manner which it is impossible to describe to you. Such support, such removal of every care, the mind con- TEN YEARS IN' OREGON. 109 sjtantly far from every anxious thought, I could never have conceived to be possible. Under the most excru- ciating pain, when at every breath it seemed impossible to refrain from screeching as loud as my breath would bear, these cries were mingled with shouts of praise ! I would say to you, such has been the abundance of peace given, that not a rising of impatience or fretfulness, or a murmur or a complaint, has ever been felt by me during my sickness. Farewell ! The God of peace, grace, and consolation be with you continually." Signed, " A part of Cyrus." The stump of the amputated limb healed gradually, and strong hopes were entertained that he would recover ; but they proved delusive, for an abscess formed in his hip which baf- fled medicine, and so rapidly wasted the powers of Ufe, that on the ushering in of the new year, 1840, his happy spirit, " disburthened of its load," mounted upward to the abode of bliss. But among the many mournful scenes, the missionaries had seasons of rest, and even pleasing amusements. Among others, it was proposed to organize a society for clothing the Indian women. Accordingly, the ladies met, and with char- acteristic generosity, subscribed to the amount of fifty dol- lars, which was expended at Fort Vancouver for baize and other articles for winter apparel. A request was circulated for the needy females to assemble at tlie house of Mr. Beers. There were many present, and seated on their mats on the floor, plied their needles under the dhrection of their instruc- tresses. In this way they were employed for about the same number of hours that are similar societies in this coim- try. At supper time, the ladies partook of a meal prepared according to rule : that is, one kind of cake, bread, butter, and tea. A fire was kindled, and a quantity of potatoes h7 '- . if' -:i ■. IT-- ii>M^: 'MX TEN TEARS IN OREGON. roasted, of \^hicli the natives ate with much zest, for a greater treat gomXA not have been onered them. After a number gl pleasant. meetings, during which {he progression of the; women in needle work was very gratifying to their jl^eneifaptresses, a sufficient coBaplimeht of garments was com- pleted and ^isfributed. to mate ti^e wiearers comfortaTble through the Winter. One day' the doctor and his family were visiting at X^vier^s, a neighbor at Some dfetiance from t)ie mispion, ai^d the conversation turned upon the custom of l)i\ryiijg ali\:e ; and theit host relate^ tlie following circiim- stance "' One^day himself and family vrere disturbed while at din- ,ner by 8' 'tra,mpiing and loijd wau, and on going Iq tjie door, saw borne by the corpse of a young wonaan, followed by a man rushed into the house, begging Xavier to' go witfe him, saying, that they were but a short ^ _ re burying a woman alive. He instantly hastened to the spot, but a short' distance, ftncl' ■^ouiid' the xLeed aptually done. The explanation given him was, th on, arriving at thie grave, and a^pbsiting the bbay, the mptne at '.arriving at tne grave, ana aepositing tne Doay, tne motner threw, herself upon it, clasping ner arms about the necK, and resolutely (Expressed her determimatioii to T^e oiittiect witli'it. Th^y refused to obey her wish, and represented to her now I bey r^iusea to obey ner wish, and represented me, said le miss|,oi^anes w;^uld view thd act. ' ' e, "bury ^le! Whjr shoulcl 1 live f Is not^'my Kiisband ad? jL-e r.ot my'^'chMren all gone t' ft is iiM wfetf,' let '-^* f''iVh^^^6uli'rilv^"tk"fee^^k^^ die) letme go wit^ my 'dau^bifer'iH'the spirit tahd . of our faihers r^ They "endeavored' to if'or'c^ hfe^ 'froiii'^lhe grate, hilt she clung to 'her' dea^ child, and they at last ' ylemed io her wiu, and when Xiivi^r ' reached tb^d s)pot ' it r Let I T^N .;l??iA^ JN.9IfE9|Ojr. ?11 was too Ifiii^ Jto restore' th,e mptJjertoo U£e, the vital sjMwk lji^4 fl^d. , He, il^ad ^eaf Q«Jy pojwjl^ded, the relation w^iep, *n ,]Ui,4i^u,hwtef .came to the ^i^se, a^^ inforpaed, t^e doei/or that^,alf.,a i»ile helow. he;ha.d,f9UQd tjiebody. pf.a .w}]L|^e person among the driftwood, on the bank of the river. .T^ey hastened to tlie slypxe, and fQun4 the Qorpser.of pe(^ge/who I have jbefprq^p^^ntipned, was drj^Triiwd, though I,.^l|^e I dJLd.nota^d the Jf^Qt,. that his body w^ ppt Ci2>,uij4./I" ^Tf^^y days; after, , They h^d seai?chLe4.in„yain for hiin^;^^d ,nQw, a ,ff e^ tide pf j gri^ gwshedoyer^he.heai^of the^ parjentSjAs ^thiey ^aw he^ojre .llbiem the l^ dififigur^4^*?W'i? of tl^eir ..,,^^ s^orttipae after thjs^tppk. place, the nwrjage Qf,|ijl^s ,§^th.,,apd ,^r. i^ail^y. The cajeer of this gentleman had Jtieen.ii|ftthea:,,j|it.ere§ti4^g. He, Wjas a,natji]k[e of ;plpgjU^d,.pf ^ ^^sppqtah.l^ pajcen^age, a^d })r^d^ U>. , tjbe . medical , p^ofe^^n, . iJe wa^^aofif aj^l^ ,>5rith, . ^ir .^stjby. Popper, ftnd Ab^rnathy , ^and.i^ wi^9^^e4,^^^)^.pf .thsiiJi.jRpsypt^fq^^.surgi^l His assoej^tiih^^^^ ,, ^f ^ |,l^^se. in|jij9pqea >jfas t]b,e,(nt^po^, ,Qf _ hjis,,;Bi^ther, ,^d, th?:pe .^fist^j!^yi^en^yj|yg.t9,A^4p.a. ,,,% .^JPF^^^ItertQ-P^iSPpd ^e^ult8^,^r,:|ji^^ojjyse Yrf^_^.,uDJ^|^r- .^R^te^JP^Wi^i^^'9^-,. Tfe^Jb?^9ft?^MHM«d FHl?i.aftim f.ni;psy#ng}y,^^d,^,9ieii[}ply rep|¥)x^4, w|^l^o)jt ^f^t, ,tiH,4>;ie ,,*?orniijg^.,after}^^f|^ i^V'^iiallj.ise^^re ^-^b^e;. ,%m. .Ws m/^r, .,><>M^.^^fPW<»wW- ■"■> seemed really like the arrival of the pilgrim fathers in New England ; and it may be inquired, if their influence was any thing like what the fat.iers' would have been. The mission influence, for a time, wn5 deeply felt in the colony, and through it was laid a broad baai=; for tlic promotion of civil- ization and literature. Churches and mills were erected, herds introduced, farms enlarged, and the Oregon Institute built. This building was a noble edifice, one hundred feet by ninety-four, and contained four stories. It was estab- lished for the instruction of the children of the colony, who came in numbers from all parts. The school was well taught and conducted, and examinations and exhibitions were held there which would perhaps have done honor to many of the popular academies of this country. This was not the only school in the colony, there were several others ; but this was carried on on a more extensive plan, and was a valuable ac- quisition to the country. But to return. There w 3re fifty-two members of the new recruit, and the following is the disposition which was made of them. Dr. Richmond and lady., without being gratified with a sight of the old mission at the Willamette, were sent off to Nesqually, a hundred miles north of the Columbia, and Mr. Frost and lady to the mouth of the river. Dr. Bab- cock and family, and Mr. Brewer, were despatched to the assistance of Lee and Perkins, at the Dalles. The residue were conveyed to the mission, to be afterwards distributed as should be deemed advisable. The nearest Methodist station to the old mission, in the upper country, was at the Dalles. This was strictly an Indian mission, conducted on much the same principle that were those of Dr. Whitman and his as- sociates. Here, as among them, a school for the natives was established, Mr. Brewer also opening farms for them as well mH^ TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 125 as for the missionaries. This had also been done success- fully by the other denomination, resulting beneficially to the natives, as will be seen hereafter. Too much can hardly be said in praise of the Presbyterian missions, for their efforts in behalf of the Indians, in which they were indefatigable. Mr. Lee's object seemed principally to introduce a better state of things among the white settlers, which, to a great degree, succeeded. He had originally been sent out to labor among the Flathead Indians, and passing through the coim- try, leaving them far to the right, went on to the Willamette, intending to spend there a winter before proceeding to his destination. He found the mild, equable climate, and soci- ety, though small, of whites, more congenial to his habits than any thing he could expect in the section to which he had been sent. Thinking that he discovered signs of the colony becoming an extensive and valuable field of useful- ness, and that, for various reasons, the Flatheads had less claim for missionary efforts than had been supposed, he de- termined to assume the responsibility and commence a mis- sion on the Willamette. He directed its principal energies to bear for the promotion of the interests of the white pop- ulation, the result of which have been seen in the erection of mills, etc., and through this influence also a perfect form of provisional government has been established and enforced for years. My readers may have often heard of Mr. Hines and lady, who have of late returned from Oregon by way of China, and who have written many interesting letters, es- pecially of the missions in the Celestial Empire. They were with the last mentioned reinforcement, and assigned a station at Umpqua, one hundred and forty miles south. The follow- ing August, Mr. Lee, Mr. Hine, and Dr. White sat out on an exploring tour, for a suitable spot for a station. They trav- 126 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. Vf^i, died on horseback, with a single attendant, and two horses laden with their blankets, provisions, etc. In two days they reached the Upper end of the Willamette valley, the whole of which they had never before travelled, and as all others have been, were delighted with its lovely scenery, and gen- eral fertility of the soil. As no hunters had visited the val- ley for some time, they found fresh signs of the beaver, and otter, numerous flocks of wild fowl, and herds of deer were scampering, all hours of the day, over the beautiful plains. They pushed on for the Umpqua fort, about sixty miles from the coast. As they left the valley, the travelling for some distance was very pleasant, the country being gently undu- lating ; but it became more and more hilly, with a greater proportion of timber, until they arrived at the Umpqua mountains. They saw many, what they considered, would be veiy desirable locations for settlers, fine water privileges, large plains well grassed, and good, tillable soil. Near the foot, and in the spurs of the mountains, they saw the cedars, of Lebanon, as they jocosely pronounced them, being the largest they had seen or read of any where, except in Solo- mon's allusions. A faithful delineation of the size and beauty of the tree might actually jeopardize the reputation of the writer for truthfulness, and it would not therefore be advi- sable to attempt one. They were appalled at the general features and rugged- ness of the mountain they were to climb, and somewhat du- bious of their ability to conquer the ascent. But they pressed on with the conviction that " faint heart never won," etc., might be applied to more than one kind of underta- king, and clambered perseveringly over fallen timber and rugged steeps, hardly daring to look ahead, fearing to see greater difficulties and entanglements. At length they came »,-t- TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 127 to a narrow ledgo, which they traversed with cautious steps, and had passed the most dangerous part, when their guide pointed out to thorn the phice where a horse of the Huu- son's Bay Company had fallen some seventy feet and been dashed to atoms. This somewhat hastened the pace of the travellers. An hour more and they were at the top of the mountain, when, to the amusement of his companions, Mr. nines rose in his stirrups, and raising his hand, said, in a very earnest manner, " my wife never climbs this mountain ;" and she never did, for it was too difficult a task for a lady to en- counter. The descent was less arduous, and when they were about half way down, from an open ground, they saw in the val- ley beneath a little plantation, with a picket enclosure, and a neat dwelling and outhouses. They were astonished at find- ing such a gem in so isolated a spot, surrounded by the most savage scenery of nature, and naught but Indian inhabitants a hundred miles around. They found it tenanted by a French- man, stationed there by the Hudson's Bay Company, living in comparative comfort, raising considerable corn and vege- tables. With true French suavity he welcomed his visitors with great demonstrations of joy, and making a thousand apologies that he had no better fare to offer such important personages, as he chose to call them. They spent two days with him, when circumstances no longer permitting the doc- tor's stay from home, he started on his return, leaving Mr. Lee and Hines to prosecute their investigations, which they did to the coast. An account of this was afterwards pub- lished, including a merry relation of their council with the Indians ; and the fall of their pack horse, provisions and all, from a height of forty feet, into the river. Dr. White was accompanied by an Indian boy, who had •' « a-. 1 ii -1' > rV V t 4. .iv ' 'V. f 1 1 mi ■tetic; 128 TEN YEARS IN ORKGOK. been a slave, captur^id in warfare when about ten years old, by the Umpquas^, from the Chestes, remaining with them for years, until purchased by one of the Hudson's Bay Company, who afterwards settled in the Willamette. Here the doctor found him, and bought his freedom, and the youth accom- panied him on this as well as other excursions, and was a valuable assistant, being an expert rider and remarkably trusty for one of his race. They retraced their lonely way over the mountain without any occurrence worthy of men- tioning, till they foimd an encampment for the night. They built a fire beside a log and stretched themselves on the ground ; but the doctor could not drive from his mind the idea that he was a hundred miles from uny of his own race, and in the midst of, for aught he knew, hostile tribes, and it dissipated the repose his weary form so much cov- eted. About sunrise, they were aroused by a light, quick tread, and, to their alarm, discovered advancing towards them, on the last night's trail, a half dozen Avell armed Indi- ans. Springing to thier feet, they grasped the guns which lay beside them, and stood on their guard ; but soon saw there was no occasion for apprehensions, for the leader came forward, trailing his weapon, and proffered his hand with the grace of a well-bred Frenchman. His companions fol- lowed his example, and then quietly seated themselves on the ground. They said they had heard the missionaiies Averc in the country, seeking for a place to settle ; that they were glad, and had come to seek and welcome them, but being unable to find them, had discovered the trail the day before and followed it. After some conversation the chief gave a slight history of the last six years of his life. A large party of the Hud- son's Bay Company, passing through the coimtry on their TKN vears in oheqon. 129 ay eir way to Califoniia, persuaded him to go with them on a limiting and trapping cxcurson to that country. He gave a \ery just description of the chara ter of the company, hght, gay, frivolous, and sometimes profane. One only of the party differed widely from the rest. This one the chief ob- served, at the close o^ each day's journey, to retire to a dis- tance from the camp, and kneel in an attitude of deep devo- tion, for some length of time. This, with his calm, consist- ent demeanor, impressed the son of the forest so forcibly, that he begged and received permission to accompany him, and there listened to the devoted prayers and pious instruc-* tions of the good man ; and it was followed by good results, for he learned of God, His Son, and the Holy Spirit. He longed for the time to come when he should return to his home, for he wished to communicate to his people his lately acquired knowledge of a religion which had imparted to his spirit a new and delicious enjoyment. At his strange revelations they were amazed, and, like a •• little leaven leavening a whole lump," the work began, and spread among them, and, for a time, a forcible change was perceivable in the whole tribe. But gradually, as it often is in other countries, one by one they lost their first impres- sions, till, as he expressed it, pointing to his little number, *• all but these have left me, and the good and the right way," Tears rolled down his cheeks, and grief was visibly portrayed on his dark face. " I've told them all I know, and many times, till they have become tired, and now my heart jumps within me that the missionaries are coming to crive them more knowledge, and make again God's love to shine in their hearts." Their listener told them all he knew of Mr. Lee's purpo- ses, and invited them to visit the mission. When the time 9 V I- ir ' it' "'. if • ' 5 \{: t jji 130 TBM YBAR8 IN OREQOK. for separation arrived, the little company knelt in prayer to their Great Father, and the doctor observed with interest the humble, devoted bearing of his visitors, and their emo- tions, as they hstened to the words of suppUcation. He also, for the first, discovered they were Catholics, by their cros- sing themselves repeatedly and devoutly. Himself and his companions left the place, and always remembered it as a hallowed spot, consecrated by the impressive scene they had witnessed. 'iSN YEARS IN OHUOON, lai CHAPTER XV. Difficulty with Mr. Lee— Extract from a report of the board of rai«- sions — Erabarcation — Delightful voyage to the Islands — Danger — Mrs. W.'a concern — The pilot again — Visitors — Exploring squad- ron — Pic-nic— Embark for the United States— Passenger©— Mr. Diell's death — Social parties — Hailing a vessel — Aarrival in port- Bennett's express. Soon after this expedition, arose a difficulty between Mr. Lee and Dr. White, which was the cause of the doctor's re- turn home. It is not worth while to give the particulars ; suffice it, that the diflference was an honest one, in relation to the best way and means of carrying forward the objeots of the mission. Tliis small matter, as is unfor-tunately often the case, gave rise to other disagreements, m which, not only sentiment, but feeling was enlisted. Dr. White re- signed ; and thinking it the most honorable course he could pursue, under the circumstances, resolved, in a written cor- respondence with Mr. Lee, to state his reasons for so doing ; and then, with the replies, coming and laying it before thv board of missions. The proceeding was right, had the cor- respondence been carried on with a Uttle more moderatioa, and less bitterness of spirit. The decision of the board will be seen in the following extract from the twenty-seventh annual report : " The first despatches from this mission, after the arrival of the great reinforcement, were brought in the ship Lau- sanne, and received by the board in April, 1841. Dr. EK- l\ t: ^ V t 1 V. in .1 t i I. 132 TEN YL'AKS IN OHKGO^. i M'„ m f '•*' ■ R,;^ jah "White, whu had rolurned to this country in the same vessel, presented himself before the board at its regular meet- ing, held on the twenty-first of the same month, and made a verbal communication. From his remarks, and the de- spatches of the superintendent, it appeared that after a most unpleasant and excited controversy between himself and Mr. Jason Lee, he had been induced to resign his office as phy- laician to the mission. After liiearing Dr. White in his de- fence, the board disapproved of his leaving the mission with- out their consent, but directed the treasurer to settle his ac- counts. Letters were subsequently received from Messrs. Kone and Richmond, and also signed by several lay-mem- bers of the mission, all of which indicated dio^i^atisfaction with their cu'cumstauces, and more or less, with the super- intendent. * * « fr * At a regular meeting, held July 1*7, 1843, the board re- newed the recommendation of the bishop, either to appoint an agent, or to supersede Mr. Lee by a new supeiintendent. The bishop preferred the latter course, and at their regular meeting in the following September, informed the board, that he had appointed Rev. George Gary, of the Black River Conference, to the superintendency of the Oregon mis- sion. This announcement was received by the most decided expressions of gratification." And so ended the affair, which painful as it was, did not greatly involve the moral character of either party. Hav- ing resigned, and the correspondence being ended, the doc- tor, with his family, embarked in the brig Maryland, Capt. Couch, for the Sandwich Islands. And now for prospects and dreams of home, after four years' residence in the far west. They had a delightful run, with smooth seas and fair winds, not a storm or a calm, and arrived at the Islands -hi f'p TKN YEARS IN OREGOV. lan rvftCM' tlio uniusuiiUy short passajrc of <*ightec'n dixyn, both officers and crew cxertnig themselves to render it as pleas- ant and agreeable as possible. Mrs. White was troubled and unhappy the afternoon and evening before they anchored. She remembered the ap- pearance of the coast, and was confident, that at the velocity with which they were sailing, from seven to nine knots an hour, they would soon be on the rocks. Neither the captain or officers had ever before been at the islands, and seemed at a loss to determine their position, for they frequently de- scended to the cabin, and looked anxiously over the chart. She had just been reading of the wreck of a vessel on this very coast, and knew by the deportment of the captain with whom they had first sailed, that great caution should be ob- served in approaching it. Though the doctor and other pas- sengers slept in unconscious security, she could not rest; and though the night was pitchy dark, stood on the stairs of the companionway, in her night dress, wrapped in a shawl, removing her cap from her head, that the men might not distinguish her in the dim ligl « of the lamps, alive with fear that every moment the vessel would strike on the reef they were nearing. As the hours sped by, her apprehen- sions increased, until about eleven o'clock, when, as if to ren- der their destruction inevitable, the captain descended and turned in. Afrer a few moments, Mr. Killbum, the mate, came down in liaste, and her fears were confirmed, as she heard him exclaim, " I'll be d — d if we are not already un- der the rocks!" They immediately cast anchor, and the watcher retired to repose, with a light heart, rejoicing that their frightful peril had been discovered in time to prevent a fatal catastrophe. In the morning, it was foimd that they were only at a dis- j , ;; :• ;• 'I- • '■ f. 134 TEN TEARS IN OREG05'. tance of a few hundred yards from the black rocks on tho coast. Mrs. White acquainted them with her anxious wait- ing in the companionway, which, as the danger was passed, caused a hearty laugh, and Mr. Kilburn remarked, "yes, he saw her hair flying in the wind, just as he went to call the captain, and he supposed her terrors caused her to for- get her intended concealment." Immediately after breakfast they saw their old white- headed friend, the pilot, putting out to them in his little boat, and they received him with joy and satisfaction: it seemed almost like greeting a father, so much had his kindness en- deared liim to them. From him they learned the presence of the exploring squadron at the islands, on their way to Oregon. They were soon moored safely in the harbor of Honolulu, where thoy Avtre visited by Rev. Messrs. Smith and Annatrong, and were invited to accompany them home. After visiting some time among their friends, they took lodgings with Mr. E. O. Hall. Our friends enjoyed many pleasant clIIs and visits frofn Commodore Wiikes and Captain Hudson, who were not more gratified at hearing intelligence from Oregon, than were they at receiving comparatively fresh news from the United States. During the stay of Dr. White and family at the islands, the gentlemen of the squadron gave a pic nic party, some three or four miles out of town, on a beautiful plain, to which was invited all the missioniiries, American and Eng- lish cTOSuls, and their ladies, and finally, all the principal foreign inhabitants. It was a social, convivial occasion, tind rather a costly affair, as probably not less than eight or nine hundred dollars were expended by the officers. The colla- tion was boun.liful. and coi^iposed of all sorts of meat?, dress- TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 135 ii > i ed in all sorts of styles ; various fruits, both preserved and green ; cakes, nuts, and wines in every variety. The feast was spread on long tables, laid under a tent of the stars and stripes. Dr. White now negotiated with Captain Spaulding, of Salem, Mass., for a passage to the States, on board the Lau- sanne, lying in the harbor. There were on board, besides himself and family, Rev. John Deill, chaplain at Honolulu, lady and four children ; Captain Couch, Lieutenant Pinkney, of the American squadron, Midshipman Lewis, and Miss Mary Smith, who had been on a visit to her brother at the islands, and Mr. Grimes, who sailed with them from the States. The gentlemanly captain made ample provision for his passengers, furnishing himself with live stock, so that they had fresh meat twice a week till their arrival in New York. Mr. Deill being in delicate health, was provided by the munificence of the gentlemen of the islands with every ac- commodation, and with six hundred and forty dollars for his expenses. They sailed late in November — the same day that the squadron sailed for Oregon. Their adieus were made with much regret, as they had for weeks been associated with the officers in pleasant scenes and enjoyments. It is unnecessary to give a lengthy description oi the voyage, as it was much like the first, save being less tedious. It wa^ uninterruptedly pleasant, with a single exception. Mr. Deill's health continued to decline — that insidious, fatal disease, a consurrp+ion, preying upon his feeble frame till hope of life was gone. It was at sunset of a lovely day, when they were in 40° south latitude, that he died. He talk- ed in faint whispers the whole day, calling each member of B^ 136 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. his family to his bedside, and cheerfully conversing with them. He then requested the presence of the captain and each of the passengers, and described to them in glowing language his happiness in view of his approaching; change, earnestly beseeching them to prepare for their hour of dis- solution. When he expired, his countenance evinced perfect peace, and he was apparently in full possession of his mental powers. Probably no man ever resided at the Sandwich Islands, more respected and esteemed. The next day, in compliance with his oft-repeated request. Dr. White made a post-mortem examination, and found the left lobe of the lungs entirely destroyed, and the right two-thirds obliter- ated, and the residue in an extremely tubercleous state, giv- ing full evidence that no one, except of his calm, quiet tem- perament, could have survived such a length of time. The hour of interment arrived, and with feelings of deep solem- nity, the crew and passengers congregated to witness the last rites. The captain read the service wiih jtiiuch emotion, and at the proper moment the p^ nk was raised, and the beloved dead sank from sight into the deep blue waters. When she heard the slight splash of the coffin, as it struck the wa\e, poor Mrs. Deill swooned, and was conveyed to the cabin, followed by the tenderest sympathies of all. They had no boisterous weather at the Cape, but were wafted swiftly and steadily around, and were once more in the broad Atlantic. The time on board passed very aoree- ably. They enjoyed delightful promenandes and pleasant chats ; and often of an evening, the captain, or one of the offi- cers, or passengers, inviied their companions to spend an Lour with them when they were regaled with nuts, fruits. &c., with which each one had furnished himself in abun- dance. These little reunions contributed much to the gen- af ■■■'• mil TEN TEARS IN OREGOy. 137 eial enjoyment, and cordiality of feeling ; and with these and other amusements, they had little trouble in dispelling the monotony which sometimes stole over them. When within a fortnight's sail of land they spoke an out- ward bound ship, from which they obtained a small supply of fresh vegetables, and learned the election of General Har- rison to the presidency, and other home news. Their hearts now burned with eager anticipations, but their plasure was checked as they neared the coast, for there they encoun- tered a heavy storm. Their situation was perilous ; for such was the violence of ihe gale, that the anchors dragged, and they expected to be blown ashore. However, the stout vessel gallantly weathered it, and they were at length safely anchored, and ready to tread once more their dear native soil. The first person on board was Bennett's express, who communicated the news of the death of Harrison, and loss of the ship President. t.l 1 !> 188 TEK TEARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER XVI. Trip to New York — Call on Mr. Fry — His singular behavior — Intro- ductions — Journey to "Washington — Re'jeption — Appointment to the Sub-Agency — Death — Lizette — Starting for Oregon — Company — Reach Havana — Separation — Sad thoughts — An old friend — Arri- val at Geneva — Curiosity excited by the Indian boys — Reach Buf- falo — Milan — i i' • "'a. Columbus to St. Louis — Reception — Wil- liam Sublet — Kint- ption at Independence — Anxieties — Meeting of the emigration — Resolutions. f'i:i:- ■■< V^if, As our business is with Dr. White's adventures in Oregon, perhaps it will be well to pass over the year he now spent in the States, and give the circumstance which led to his return to Oregon. At the expiration of the yea:, he had oc- casion to visit New York on business. When about leaving for home, he called to bid adieu to Mr. Fry, a particular friend. After chatting awhile, he rose to take his leave, when Mr. F. suddenly exclaimed, "doctor, you are wanted in Washington." Surprised at the singular- ity of the expression, the doctor asked an explanation, and received for answer the same, and again the third time. "Why, sir," said the doctor, "I cannot comprehend your meaning, but there are three things certain ; I have no bu- siness at Washington, no friends, and do not happen to have with me the funds requisite for the journey." Without a word, Mr. F. drew out his purse, and handed him bills to a sufficient amount to defray his expenses ; and then explained, that there was business in relation to Oregon matters being M TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 139 transacted at the capital, where his services might be useful and acceptable. After some reflection, the doctor concluded to accept the proposi >n, and was that evening presented to Mr. Alfred Benson, and the eldest son of Daniel Webster, from whom he received letters to Mr. Webster, President Tyler, and Mr. Upsher. He arrived in Washington the 25th of January, and met with a kind reception from Mr. Lynn, John C. Spencer, and other heads of departments. He spent a few pleasant days in the city, and unexpect- edly received the commission of agent of Indian affairs, from the secretary of w^ar, under the direction of the president. He started for home, and on his arrival in Auburn, about thirty miles from Lansing, was met by a messenger, with the sad tidings that his youngest child, a sweet little girl of three years, was dead. Thus, while he had been happily engaged in his pursuits at Washington, his home had been overshadoAved with the heavy cloud of grief, and the hearts of its dear inmates stricken with anguish. They felt their loss deeply, but none seemed to mourn so agonisingly as Lizette, who had been the nurse of the de- parted one from its earliest infancy. She had always felt for it almost a mother's tenderness, and this attachment in- creased while they were at the Sandwich Islands, and during their voyage home. I believe I have not before mentioned Lizette. She was a native of Oregon, who came to live with Mrs. White before little Jason'R death, and was old enough to grieve deeply at the painful shock. She, with her two sisters, were early left orphans. Their mother died when they were very youncr. Thev then lived for some years with their relations, They some years •V- 1 t : ■ rii ■1 M !•: •. i m 1 I ^i ■ '. i ■ t 1 ■. \ f:'..' ■ , ' " i\ , 1 , ■■■ ';.r-; '_., <- ■.< ■ >'■ ■ '■"•• : .,.. :j ; '*■' ': j '^ • ■'■..' „■ ■•> • ,' •■-: ;j,..jj :•«.'.« 1 ^ " ' "^ 140 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. m m\ r:i ■ %■'., when their fathor, who doted on his children, carried them to Fort Vancouver. Lizettc was the eldest of the three, and her next sister, Angelique, was a beautiful, but delicate child. While at the fort, they unfortunately lost their kind father. He went out on a hunting and trapping excursion, and was thrown from his horse, a spirited hunter, and died in a few hours, and it was thought by his signs, for he was unable to speak, that his last thoughts were of his poor girls. They were now left alone, and Lizette was of an age to be capable of realizing painfully that they must hereafter look to strangers for home and care. Her greatest anxiety was for her frail Angelique, whose slight constitution could ill sup- port the fatigues and labors that could those of her stronger sisters. But, through the exertions of their friends, suitable places were found for both Sophie and Angelique, and Li- zette was placed with Mrs. White. She accompanied her to the States, from a curiosity to see the civilized world, of which she heard so much, expecting to return to Oregon. She has heard that her sisters are both married very happily, and longs to return — which she intends to do soon — to the woods and plains of her own beautiful country, and once more clasp in her arms her beloved sisters. Soon after the doctor's return, he was visited by three young men, Alexander, William, and John McKay, natives of Oregon, who had been educated at Wilberham, Mass. At the time of Mr. Lee's visit to the States, they travelled with him, as also did William Brooks, who I have before mentioned. William did not return to Oregon, but died in New York city. He was a most estimable young man, of a sweet, amiable disposition, and Mr. Lee very much regret- ted his death, saying that he was of more valuable assist- ance to him than any other person in the mission. As they 5sist- they TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 141 were all bound for Oregon, the doctor, with Nathaniel Crocker, Esquire, of Lansing, concluded to go in company with the McKays. Mrs. White took leave of them at Ith- aca, from whence they went by stage to Havana, at the head of Seneca lake. At Havana they found Mr. Medorum Crawford, now mem- ber of assembly in Oregon, who decided to accompany them thither. Not far from here the parents of Dr. White resided ; and when he embarked on board the steam-boat, they, with his brothers and sisters, and many dearly loved friends, accom- panied them to the wharf. They exchanged farewells ; and as the boat slowly pushed off, three spontaneous cheers rose from the multitude, rousing the echoes from the shores of the beautiful lake, as the prow cleft the sparkling waters* The reflection that he should not again see his dear family for years, if for life, and the distance Avhich would intervene between them and himself, haunted the doctor's mind, and saddened his heart. As they were passing Starkey's ferry, a signal vras hoisted, and the boat put in ; when, to the doctor's joy, his friend, General Demotte, stepped on board. In answer to his en- quiries, he gave him an account of his intended expedition. His listener was so cheerful and interested, that his gloomy thoughts were partially dissipated, till they were near the spot where little George so nearly lost his life six years pre- vious. There the spell of reminiscence stole over him, and his mind wandered msensibly back to former scenes. George's fearful death, the triab and changes which they had experi- enced in Oregon ; in short, the whole of their hfe there seem- ed to pass in review before him. That night they were at Geneva, and in a short time the ?)•■■ 'I . f' i"?' '■'».■ ■ll I' < ■ • < :-t If ;'i'' ■ 'I * * 142 TEN YEARS IN OKEGOK. m I^^V' ■. ;|tl-'; ipS-:- p:;:. Ji'i news of the arrival of three Oregon youths spread through the village. Numbers visited them, and I need not say how much interest was excited by these noble young men. At last they became wearied with so much attention ; besides,' not being wanting in fine sensibilities, and, with Mr. Crocker, retired, leaving Dr. White to make their apologies to the remainder of their curious callers. The next day they started for Buffalo, where they were detained by a severe storm, which gave the doctor an oppor- tunity of enjoying a pleasant visit with his friend, Mr. Israel Chamberlain. On the morning of the 21st, the party embarked for Milan, Ohio, where they arrived after a very stormy voyage. This was the residence of Mr. Alpheus Shaw, on whom Dr. White called, and who entertained serious thoughts of joining the expedition. On the route to St, Louis they found considerable interest felt in Oregon affairs, as the following extract from a letter will briefly show : " Once more the sweet Sabbath of the Lord dawns upon me, and I alive to enjoy its sacred privileges, and think of those I have left behind. To-night I am requested to occu- py the pulpit of the distinguished Mr. Judsoa, a Presbyte- rian clergyman. To-morrow I put out, taking with me, I hope, Mr. Shaw, with whom I have had some sweet seasons of private devotion, as well as of social intercoui'se. One day later, and a pleasant one, as far as weather is concerned, though I am a little inclined to be solitary — ^have been think- ing of home, Oregon, past and future, and with the good man of old, I can say in truth, ' I would not live alway.' Last night all the other appointments were taken up to hear me lecture on Oregon, and as the weather was fine, and TEN YEARS IN OREO OK. 143 trc veiling good, the noble church was filled, the pulpit lined with ministers of all denominations, and I talked an hour and a half with all my might. * * * * Mr. Shaw has, an hour since, received a communication, ma- king it impossible for him to accompany me. Six days later, and a sweet Sabbath it is, indeed, as I am in Louisville, Kentucky. A mile at least removed from all my associates, quietly seated alone, forgetting the bright sun that shines into my apartment, and the verdure around me, to think of, and in this way to talk with my own dear, dis- tant family. Thus far, our journey has been prosperous and pleasant. Two days later, and we are at St. Louis ; found a brother and his family, in Cincinnati, whom I had not seen for many years ; all v/ell, and extremely happy to see me.'' At St. Louis they were kindly received, and every thing in relation to Oregon heard with attention, as the interest felt m the country, by the people of that state, was deep and growing. They had long known the necessity of sending a person to perform the duties of the doctor's office, and his appointment seemed to add new impetus to their hopes, for the extension of our jurisdiction over the territory. Dr. White here met William Sublet, who was one of the first to discover the scuthern pass through the Rocky M..> -ntains, and by his traffic, and adventures there, amassed a hand- some fortune. The party separated at St. Louis, a portion travelling by land. Dr. White and Mr. Crawford by steam boat. They met five days after at Lidependence ; the first giving a most amusing relation of their journey, not omitting the ham, eggs, and hominy they had lived upon, while the others, as is common with travellers in that section, and af that season of the year, were complaining dolefully of the disagreeable water they had been obliged to drink on their . - ' i .; ■ • I t V :f 1j- J''"' i ■ 144 TEN YEARS IN OREOOIf. passage up the river. I need not dwell on the particulars of their reception, as the warm, cordial habits of the ex- treme western people are generally so well understood. With a view to increase their numbers, Dr. White visited Platte city and county, and some portions of Jackson, of which Independence was the county seat. Additions were made to the party till it amounted to one hundred and twelve persons. While they were coming in, which they did from Illinois, Arkansas, and Missouri, occur- red the attempted murder of Gov. Boggs, who was shot through the head, while sitting near a window, perusing a newspaper. It caused great excitement, and many, espe- cially strangers in the town, were arraigned before a select committee and examined. Through the testimony of one, who had observed him loitering about, the evening of the attempt, a Mormon was suspected, and arrested. For nearly a year he was imprisoned, when, as no positive evidence was elicited to confirm his guilt, he was liberated. The poor suf- ferer was horribly mutilated, and though, with a loss of a portion of the brain, after three months' tedious illness, re- covered. The particular reason for suspecting a Mormon was, that Boggs sent a body of militia against this people in one of their first engagements, and they had, therefore, sworn deadly vengeance against him. Thif:"' high-minded, and enterprising gentleman afterwards removed to Califor- nia. The 14th of May had now arrived, and the emigratrog party were rendezvoused at Elm Grove, twenty n iles south- west ( f Independence, and on the morning of th». 15th Dr. White took leave of the beautiful town of Independence. In travelling through the adjoining sections, together with Platte County, he was much pleased with the apparent fertility 1. TEN YEARS IN OREOOIT. 140 tmg Uh- [Dr. In itie of the soil and variety of the scenery. He felt now that he was taking a farewell of fiiends, and civilized life, and his emo- tions of grief were more poignant than any he had before expe- rienced. He had not now his family to sympathize with him, and a sense of almost utter loneliness crept over his heart. His anxiety was increased by a visit he had received from Mr. Sublet, who declared it his opinion, from only seventeen days* experience with such a party, that it would be perfectly im- possible for him to take through the country so large a com- pany of men, women, and children ; that he could not pre- serve order, discipline, and good feeling among them, and the consequences to be feared were, that every one would be destroyed, or cut off by the Indians. It caused the doctor great uneasiness and depression. This was the first exper- iment of the kind ever made in that direction ; the distance, as computed by Fremont, was nearly twenty-seven hundred miles, through hordes of strange savages. A meeting of the emigration was called to consider this and other subjects, and to make regulations. The following resolutions were adopted : Resolved, That every male, ovey the age of eighteen years, shall be provided with one mule, or horse, or wagon conveyance ; shall have one gun, three pounds of powder, twelve pounds of lead, one thousand caps, or suitable flints, fifty pounds of flour, or meal, and thirty pounds of bacon, and a suitable proportion of provisions for women and chil- dren ; and, if any present be not so provided, he shall be rejected. Resolved, That Dr. White now exhibit to the meeting, to be read by the secretary, any document from the war de- partment, in his possession, showing his appointment to any office in the Oregon territory ; which, being done, on motion, 10 ;)'■ i I 140 TKN YEARS IN OKKGO.V. Resolved, That wo elect a captain for one month, from and after this day. Resolved, That, for the benefit of all those who may here- after move to Oregon, and that government may be well in- formed of the road, its obstructions, means of subsistence, eminences, depressions, distances, bearings, etc., there be now elected a scientific corps, to consist of three persons, who shall keep a faithful and true record of every thing useful to government, or future emigrants. This corps consisted of C. Lancaster, S, W. Hastings, and A. L. Lovejoy. James Coates, was elected pilot, and Na- thaniel Crocker, secretary. Resolved, That H. Bums be appointed master black- smith, with power to choose two others, and also, to call to his aid the force of the company. Resolved, That John HofFstutter be appointed master wagon maker, with like power with the blacksmith. Resolved, That the captain appoint a master road and bridge builder, with like powers. Resolved, That a code of laws be drafted, and submitted to the company, and that they be enforced by reprimand, fines, and final banishment. Resolved, unanimously, That there shall hereafter be no profane swearing, no obscene conversation, or immoral con- duct, allowed in the company, on pain of expulsion. Resolved, That the names of every man, woman, and child be registered by the secretary. Which being done, Resolved, That this meeting now adjourn, to meet again at Fort Vancouver, c-n the Columbia river, on the first day of October next, the powers of Heaven willing. i^W-r TES YEARS IN OHKOOK. 147 .1' r CHAPTER XVIT. Departure— Emotions — A friend — Manner of camping— Order of the morning — Dog Blaughter—Sickness of a child— Detained two days — Difficulty in crossing Caw river — Increasing illness of the child — Its death — The mother becomes ill — Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re- turn—Undulating country— Big Blue — Divide — Rainy night— Ba^ falo — Platte river and plain — Fuel — South fork of the Platte — ^ChioH ney and castle — Singular scenery — Arrival at Fort Laramy— Coaiof flour, etc — Bridger and company — Alarming inoident. As they left their beautiful encampment, it was a noble sight. The eighteen wagons, with their snow white covering, winding down the long hill, followed > y the immense train of horses, mules, and cattle of all kinds, their drivers walk- ing by their side, merrily singing, or whistling, to beguile their way. As Dr. White stood on an elevation, he cast his eyes forward towards the wastes and wilds of the savage world they were to traverse, and back to his own loved, pleasant land, and it need not be inquired whether his re- flections were of a very joyous nature. He felt much as he did two days previous, when parting with his old friend, Philip L. Edwards, whom he had known in Oregon. He had crossed the mountains with Mr. T.ee, subsequently returned, and was now residing in western Missouri. He was greatly interested, and such were his sympathies for the doctor, that, had circumstances permitted, he would cheerfully have accompanied him to the territory. Some curiosity may be felt as to the manner in which the wayfarers disposed of themselves, and herds especially, ;i II 148 TBN /£4RS IN OREGON. ■■.'(', ;:H WfSi through the night. They travelled all day, steadily onward, till four o'clock in the afternoon, when they halted. As large a circle was made as could be formed by the wagons drawn up, one behind another, and the mules, horses, etc., with ropes of perhaps fifty feet in length, attached to them, turned loose upon the prahJc to feed till evening. Each per- gon then built a fire opposite his own wagon, and while this was being done, the females were preparing food for cook- ing. Two forked sticks were driven into the ground, a pole laid across, and tLe kettle swung upon it. Those who had tables, set them out, while others laid the cloth upon the groand, and seated themselves around, after the fashion of olden time, partaking of the food before them with appe- tites not at all wanting in keenness. After the meal, they usually enjoyed a season of recreation, sauntering about at their leisure, and it was really the mot,- delightful portion of the day. At siinset, the horses were caught, and each by bis rope fastened to a stake, at suitable distances, and left for the night. Sentinels were then stationed at different points, and in all directions were next heard the blows of the axes and hammers of the men, driving the stakes and pre- paring the tents. Most of the women and children slept in the comtortable, Pennsylvania covered wagons, and the men on blankets spread under the tents, with coats and saddles for pillows. As day dawned, according to a law, made as in other republics, by a majority of votes, at a given signal; every one rose to prepare for departure. The boys went out in all directions to collect the teams and herds, which often detained them for several hours, as the cattle would sometimes wander off" for miles. The first meal being over,. the dishes nicely stowed, and everything pronounced in rea- diness, he who had taken the lead the day previous, went to. TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 149 the rear, while the next in order took his place. This rule was invariably observed, as it prevented any feeling that oth- ers were preferred to them. They passed on to the south-west, leaving the Santa Fe trail to the left, nothing out of the common routine occur- ring, till they reached what they afterwards designated as the dog encampment. Here, by a two-thirds vote, it was determined to kill all the dogs of the company, having been informed, that, in crossing the mountains, and their vicinity, these animals were apt to become rabid, as timber was scarce, and conse- quently water, which they so much required in the heats of summer, on the scorching plains. This arrangement did not at all accord wit' . the feelings of the ladies, and caused the first serious disturbance since leaving the states. While the destruction was going on, the poor creatures would run to their mistresses for protection, crying most piteously. Even the men, while engaged in their task, foimd their hearts were not sufficiently steeled, to permit its performance, with- out feelings of sorrow and regret. However, the recollec- tion of a freshly related account of the mad wolf, which had bitten eleven of two encampments, strengthened their forti- tude ; the death of the dogs was preferable to those of their herds, and perhaps members of their families, and they went resolutely about the work, amid the cries and screams of the women and children, as well as of the vici'ms. While here, the child of Mr. Lancaster, of Platte city, was taken very ill, and they were unable to move for two days ; after which, they went on until they reached the Caw river, a hundred miles above Independence. This is a large and not unimportant branch of the Mis- fiouri, and, except at occasional points, difficult to pass ; and .■I' if, (:■ ft ^.- .1 i; V-r' 160 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 1 <-.S'! the expedition was much embarrassed as to the mode of crossing. At last a plan suggested itself, which was to lay boards across the wagon boxes, and place ihe baggage upon them. In four hours they had the joy of seeing their eflfects landed uninjured on the opposite bank. Here they found the child was rapidly growing worse, and it was concluded best for the party to go on, with the exception of an attendant, leaving Dr. White with the sor- rowing parents. For a day and a half, their efforts to save her were incessant and unwearying, but vain. The sweet little one, their only child, died, with no one but themselves to close its eyes, and compose its tender form for burial. The doctor and attendant made it a coffin of rough boards, and mterred it near a beautiful tree, with a few shrubs and bushes to guard the lonely grave. After all was over, they begged to be left alone, and oh, the heart-brea^iing anguish of those parents over their lost darling ! They sat on the damp ground, clasped in each other's arms, as though they would never tear themselves from the sacred spot, and moan- ed and wept as those who would not be comforted. At last, in compliance with the doctor's urgings, they arose and fol- lowed the party. As they rode over the plains, Mr. Lan- caster entered into conversation, and became calm and con- siderably relieved ; his manifestations of grief were less vio- lent, and when they overtook their friends, both mourners were quite composed. But this dreadful blow, with the hardships of the jour- ney, proved too much for Mrs. L.'s delicate frame, and she became very ill. With great difficulty they prosecuted two days' farther journey, when all conceived her at the point of death. Dangerous as were delays, from respect for Mr. L. and his amiable lady, the company lay by for three days, V'.'ft'' L^Dil? TEN YEARS I.^ OREGON. 161 when they were obliged to leave them, painful as it was to both parties, to retrace their way to the states, a distance of one hundred und seventy miles. They now pushed their way through an undulating coun- try, abounding in deer, elk, rabit, and hare, besides, a vari- ety of wild fowl. Having crossed the Big Blue without dif- ficulty, they hastened on to the great Divide, where they encamped. They pitched upon the summit of the Divide, where they had one of the most pelting rains of the journey. As they imagined they might be in the vicinity of the Pawnee Indians, they stationed sentinels, who found their posts any thing other than enviable, as they were obliged to enduie for three or four hours, severe drenchings, accom- panied with strong winds. The dusk of another day brought them to the Platte in great excitement, for this was a point to which they had long been looking forward, as they would then soon obtain their first sight of buffalo. Another day, and they were in view of an immense herd. At this, the old hunters showed all the animation of their profession, and absolutely almost danced for joy. A portion of the company imm i;itely went out, and suc- ceeded in driving one of the creatures to the river, where they killed it. All collected with great curiosity to see the first slaughtered buffalo, which was, indeed, a luige animal ; being, as was judged, three times the size of a common ox. After this, they saw numerous herds, as they passed through an almost timberless country. They foimd the Platte as had been represented, broad and shallow, timber scarce, and water poor. The pinit is from two to six miles in breadth, after which, it becomes un- dulating, and finally looses itself in the high hills or moun- tains beyond. ■'•'< 152 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 4;> ' Theparty were some of the time destitute of wood, and for substitute used the skull bones and manure of the buf- falo. At the south fork of the Platte, they had considerable difficulty. They chained the wagons together, and the hor- fes likewise, to the number of six or eight teams, and under- took a crossing of perhaps thrce-fo"rths of a mile. The men on horseback by the side of the teams, from the roaring of the waters, now unusually high and boisterous, were obli- ged to rais>3 their voices to the very keenest pitch, for the poor creatures to hear them. The loading, as at the Caw River, was elevated, and the women and children huddled on the top of it. They were beyond the reach of the water, but their pale faces and violent tremor, showed their ex- cessive fear. Indeed, it was not without danger ; for about the same time, the following year, several wagons were here overturned, the effects lost, and many very near being drowned. The whole scene was one of intense interest. They now passed over eighteen miles of rolling land, inter- spersed with thin clumps of timber, along the ravines which intervened between the southern and northern branches of the river. At the northern branch they found wood in pla- ces a little more plentiful ; game more abundant ; and the flat narrower. In this vicinity they saw the famous castle spoken of by Mr. Parker, and the chimney likewise, of as hich he did not have a view. The former is composed of large masses of clayey stones, piled together, and scattered about in a manner re- sembling the ruins of a large castle. The chimney, which they distmguished at nt>,arly two days' travel from the spot, was strikingly like the contemplated Washington Monument ; a column running up to the height of, perhaps, tw< hundred TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 163 h feet, from the centre of which shoots up a tall spire, very much the shape of a chimney. The scenery became more and more singular ; fallen col- umns, blocks of massy stone, and broken walls. Al inter- vals, there were collections and groups, having the appear- ance of ruinous castles, monasteries, towers, and every de- scription of massive building. This was, to the travellers, curious, grand, and picturesque, and entirely dissimilar to any thing they had before witnessed. The river forms an elb<"^ at this point, and the surface was again more broken as they approached the Platte. A few daj s longer of monotonous, undisturbed journeying, and they arrived at Fort Laramy, the great central trading post of the American Fur Company, between six and seven hundred miles from the United States, and but a few miles from the Black Hills, supposed by some to be spurs of the Rocky Mountains. The following is an extract of a letter from Dr. White to his family : " Fort Laramy, July 2d. "It gives me almost infinite pleasure to have an opportu- nity of writing to you, and I am most fully assured that you will receive as much pleasure in reading as I in writing. * * * I am now in an Indian country, with foes on every hand, subtle as the devil himself; but our party is large and strong, and I have been able to obtain the services of Mr. Fitz Patrick, one of the ablest and most suitable men in the country, in conducting us to Fort Hall, beyond the point of danger from savages. We have travelled three- fourths of the way to the mountains, suffering no calamity in property, even to the loss of a wagon spoke, or crippling of ^ a- 154 TKN TEARS IN OREOON. W- f W'V hi ■t i It'! an animal, although we have crossed the Caw and Platte riv- ers, and every stream of danger. * * * The expedition is a popular one, though to me one of great care and painful solicitude ; and yet my good health, surround- ing scenery, variety of birds, animals, (fee, tend to keep alive my sinking spirits, in the midst of distressing cares and anx- ious business. "Esquire Crocker wishes me to say that he likes sleeping out of doors on a single blanket, very well ; and feeding on fat buffalo meat alone, first rate, " Ewing Young is dead. Died insane soon after we left Oregon. ** Missionaries all well." At this fort they exchanged herds for fresh horses, and purchased materials for food — some at enormous rates. For flour, for instance, they were charged half a dollar per pint ; coffee, tea, sugar, uth, remarkably fat and ruddy. Portions of this tribe, though so healthy in appear- ance, were often, early in the spring, so reduced, that they were obliged to feed upon grass. In a few days they reached the crossing of Snake river, which they found dangerous and difficult. They were obli- ged to go directly across for a considerable distance, and then in an angling direction up the river, making a long ride before reaching the opposite bank. One of their number, not being sufficiently careful to observe the bai', was borne away, and, in the midst of cries and shrieks, drowned, in the sight of his friends. His implorings for help were most touching, but it was impossible to reach him. Their next arrival was at Fort Boise, on the right bank of the Snake, midway between Fort Hall and Fort Wallawalla, a place of little trade and importance, except as a stopping point between the two forts. There they recrossed the river and passed on through Burnt River Valley, the most broke,n tract they had heretofore traversed, though destined to be- come exceedingly valuable for its grazing qualities. They next reached the Grand Round, a fertile district, and valua- ble for herdsmen, in the midst of the Blue mountains, thirty miles in length and perhaps half that in breadth. It is the opinion of some, that the valley was formed by a convulsion of nature, and was once a lake, as there are somy portion** of it yet a marsh, and there is a beautiful, boiling, circular spring, covering about an acre of ground, the temperature of which is very agreeable, except in portions, where it ib ''V.<' &i y: •'•' imf I f i 1: m W: '1^«i^ 166 TEN YEARS IN OREGOST, li I too hot for the flesh to bear. They found several kinds of clover and grain growing in great luxuriance. When the party emerged from this beatttiful valley, thoy found themselves in a heavily timbfved. mountahious coun- try, where they were obliged to spend a night with scarcely a particle of grass for their wearied and hungry animals. Two days later brought them to the foot of t'ne Blue moun- tains, and glad were they to be in a country niore comforta- ble for man and beast. Here Dr. White called at an Indian wigwam, for a guide to conduct him to Dr. Whitman's residence, and learned, to his great joj' and surprise, that it was^ only fifteen miles dis- tant ; and he reached it after a pleasant morning's ride, over a noble and well grassed prairie, dotted with herds of v>'ild horses and cattle. Though Dr. V/hitman had been here but a few years, he was surrounded with comforts and conveniences, and his house and furniture reminded his visitor of the comfortable houses of the United States. The visit was very agreeable to both, as he had much to tell Dr. White of Oregon affairs, and the Dr. him of his two years' residence in the states. Dr. White visited Wallawalla after a two days' stay, and was invited to take boat with Mr. McDonald, for Fort Van- couver ; and, in two days time, was at the station of Messrs. Perkins and Daniel Lee, at the Dalles. These gentlemen eagerly devoured the letters brought them from the states, and having been several years absent from their native homes, had numberless enquiries to make concerning those homes But Mr. McDonald being in haste, the visit was cut short, and they were again afloat on the Columbia. From Dr. Whitman's to this point, it had been an entire praiiie district, with no considerable clump of trees, much Hi i \ TKN YBARS IN OREGON. IQI of it a light, sandy soil, and, aside from grass, very sterile. But they now found themselves in a well wooded countr}', which continued all the way to Fort Vancouver. As a nearer and better route has been discovered through the Cascade mountains, I will say little more of that by the Columbia, especially as so much has already been said and written by travellers. After something more than half a day's sail, they arrived at the Cascades, where, according to an Indian tradition, the mountains had extended across the river, its current running under them, till, from some cause, perhaps convulsion, they had fallen mto its depths, and, forming a cataract, and then a succession of rapids, from which it received its name. Whether or not the legend be true, it is in the midst of the Cascade mountains ; and there are strong indications of their having rent asunder at no remote period. The waters, also, appear to have been dammed, from the fact that there are great numbers of stumps, or trunks of trees — and many of them from twenty to thirty feet high — standing in the river, imme- diately at, and for many miles above, and no where below, the fall, perfectly petrified. Here, as was mentioned in the account of Mrs. White's and Mr. .Leslie's disaster, a long portage has to be made ; and Dr. White now passed the spot for the first time. Near this is the isolated rock, so far celebrated, rising from the river to the height of two hundred and seventy feet, and five hundred feet in circumference at its base, and, at a distance, in a form resembling a sugar loaf. The river beyond this, is remarkable for its high, rocky bluffs, and occasionally small rivulets shooting over them into the river, with a fall of from five hundred to a thousand feet. It is the projection of one of these points, which forms, what the Canadian voya- •?',<.'' "i.A 168 TEN TEARS IS ORKQON. geurs have named Cape Horn, as, in stormy weather, it is very dangerous to pass. Here the Cascade mountains melt away, and a few miles farther down are the Fort Vancouver mills, six miles only faom this great establishment. After a short visit with his friends, Gov. McLaughlin and Mr. Douglas, the doctor hastened on to the Willamette val- ley. On reaching the fulls, where a little village — now Or- egon city-r-had sprung up during his absence, the news of his arrival spread like wildfire, and he was met and welcomed by his numerous, friends in a manner very grateful and touching to his feehngs. He found that his absence had not deprived him of the friendship of those he so much pri- sed. The excitement, also, rose in part from his appoint- ment, considering it a prelude to farther movements in their behalf on the part of government. A meeting was imme- diately convened, for an expression of sentiment relative to his appointment, and the report of its doings was as follows : Champoeg, June 23, 1842. At a meeting of the citizens of Willamette valley, con- vened at the instance of Dr. Elijah White, agent of Indian aflfairs, for the purpose of communicating certain informa- tion from the government of the United States, relative to this country, the following business was transacted : The object of the meeting being stated by Dr. White, the convention proceeded to organize by choosing their officers. On motion, Dr. J. L. Babcock was unanimously elected chairman. On motion, G. W. La Breeton, v .s unanimously elected secretary. Dr. White then, by request, presented the credentials of his appointment to the office of sub-agent of Indian affair;*, TEN YEARS IN OUBGON. 169 i.] of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, and was most cheerfully received by the assembly. The doctor addressed the meeting at some length, giving such information as he felt himself authorized to give, con- cerning the interest taken by the people of the United States, in the welfare of this colony, and concerning the intcntiouK of the government in relation to this rising country, where- upon it was, on motion, Resolved, That a committee of seven be appointed lo draft resolutions, expressive of the feelings of this community, with regard to the intentions of government, as communi- cated by Dr. E. White. Mr. T. J. Hubbard, Mr. G. W. La Breeton, Mr. R. Short- ess, Mr. G. Hines, Mr. J. O'Neal, Mr. G. Abernethy, and Mr. J. S. Parish, were elected that committee. The committee retired, and after a short absence, reported the following resolutions : Resolved, That we, the citizens of Willamette valley, are exceedingly happy in the consideration, that the government of the United States have manifested their intentions through their agent. Dr. E. White, of extending their jurisdiction and protection over this country. Resolved, That in view of the claims which the aborigi- nes of this country have upon the sympathies of the white man, we are gratified at the appointment of an agent by the United States government, to regulate and guard their in- terests. Resolved, That we highly approve of the appointment of Dr. E. White, to the above office, and that we will cordially co-operate with him, in carrying out the measures of gov- ernment in reference to this country. Resolved, That we feel grateful to the United States gov- '.;>■ ''■ , ?/ J. ■ t? r 170 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. I! ;i ernment for their intended liberality towards the settlers of this country, and for their intention to support education and literature among us. Resolved, That it will give us the highest pleasure to be brought as soon as it may be practicable, under the jurisdic- tion of our mother country. Signed by the committee, T. J. Hubbard, G. W. La Bree- ton, R. Shortess, J. O'Neal, G. Hines, J. L. Parish. On motion, it was Resolved, That the report of the committee be adopted. On motion, Resolved unanimously. That the doings of this meeting, be transmitted to the government of the United States, by Dr. E. White, in order that our views and wishes in relation to this country, may be known. A committee was appointed to make arrangements for the reception of the large reinforcement, with whose arrival the inhabitants were much pleased. The new comers them- selves were delighted with the beauty of the " Genesee-like Willamette valley," and the warm hearted hospitality of its inhabitants. With the latter subsequent expeditions were not so well pleased. This party, constituted of only one hun- dred and twelve persons, and, being the first from the states, great interest was excited ; but they afterwards poured in in such numbers, that it was difficult to entertain them, say- ing nothing of the novelty being lost. There were with this party a large number of mechanics and laborers ; and through their means the people of the valley were enabled to extend their plantations, and enlarge their buildings ; and every thing soon began to wear an aspect of thrift and enterprise. The people of the colony began seriously to entertain the TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 171 project of establishing a provisional form of government ; and meeting after meeting was held for this purpose, which, from their being so many aspirants to the most important offices, proved abortive. However, the next Jmie, a committee, consisting of Robert More, Robert Newell, and Robert Short- ens, were appointed to draft a code of organic laws, to be submitted to a convention, subsequently held for the consid- eration, acceptance, or rejection of the same by the people. This proved, like the others, a disturbed session ; but, that the feelings of as many as possible might be accommoda- ted, they elected atribunate, instead of placing a single man at the head of the executive. Late in the fall of that year, 1844, great disturbances arose among the Indians of Wallawalla and Clearwater, and solicitations from the missionaries called for the interference of the sub-agent. This led to the expedition which is noti- ced in Dr. White's first annual report to the secretary of war, which is here inserted, together with the other three, sent in during his stay there. They are of much interest, indeed, of much more than I should be able to create. They con- tain a full relation of the transactions of the three following years. 172 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER XIX. ' \r% General excitement — State of tiie colony — Improper conduct of the up- per country Indians — Character of the W'Qllawallas, Keyuses, an«l Nez Perces — Their disposition towards '.'le niiesionarics — Mistaken course of the missionaries — Their treatment of a clergyman — Dan- gerous situation of Dr. Whitman among thom — His kindness — Indi* an's treatment of Mrs. W. — Burning of the mission mills — 111 treat- ment of Mr. Spalding and lady — Expedition of the Sub-Agent — Hardships — Reach Waiilatpu — Appointment with the chiefs — Mr. Spalding's station — Reception — The Agent's trt-atment of the In- dians — Public interview — Speeches of McKinley, Rogers, and Mc- Kay — Five Crows, Bloody Chief, and othcf^ The Doctor's statement and advice — Appointment of a high chief — rVasting — Last meeting — Close — Results of Dr. White's visit to the Nez Perces — Laws of the Nez Perces — Return to Waiilatpu — Keyuse tribe — Fealhercap— Touiti's accusation against the whites — Appointment for another meeting — Reach Wascopum — Success — Doings of the missionaries — Catholic missions — Schools — Country upon the Columbia anil itti tributaries, and towards California — Limestone, &c. — Settlements a* the Willamette — Falatine Plains — Clatsop Plains, &c. — Comparison between a certain portion of Oregop, and the New England States — ^Terrible disaster — Hard characters — Volcano — Report of Mr. Spalding — Mr. Jason Lee's Report. Oregon, April 1, 1843. Sir : On my arrival, I had the honor and happiness of addressing you a brief communication, giving information of my safe arrival, and that of our numerous party, to these distant shores. At that time it was confidently expected a more direct, certain and expeditious method would be presented to ad- TKN YKAIia IN ORKOON. 173 )f dress you in a few weeks ; but that failing, none has oflercd till now. I think I racntioned the kind and hospiLable manner we were received and entertained on the way by the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the cordial and most handsome reception I met with at Fort Vancouver, from Governor McLaughlin, and his worthy associate chief factor, James Douglass, Esq. ; my appointment giving pleasure, ra- ther than pain — a satisfactory assurance that these worthy gentlemen intend eventually to settle in thi.'^ country, and prefer American to English jurisdiction. On my arrival in the colony, sixty miles soutli of Vancou- ver, being in advance of the party, and coming unexpectedly to the citizens, bearing the intelligence of the arrival of so large a reinforcement, and giving assurance of the good in- tentions of our government, the excitement was general, and two days after we had the largest and happiest public meet- ing ever convened in this inftmt colony. I found the colony in peace and health, and rapidly in- creasing in numbers, having more than doubled in })opulation during the last two years. English, French, and half breeds, seem, equally with our own people, attached to the Ameri- can cause ; hence the bill of Mr. Linn, proffering a section of land to every white man of the territory, has the double advantage of being popular and useful, increasing such at- tachment, and manifestly acting as a strong incentive to all, of whatever nation or party, to settle in this country. My arrival was in good time, and probably saved much evil. I had but a short season of rest after so long, tedious, and toilsome a journey, before information reached me of the very improper conduct of the upper country Indians to- wards the missionaries sent by the American board of com- \ I i f&^-..-\ i i t 174 TEN YEARS IK OKEUOK. missioners, accompanied with a passport, and a desire for my interposition in their behalf at once. I alhide to the only three tribes from which much is U) be hoped, or any thing to be feared, in this part of Oregon. These are the Wallawallas, Keyuse, and Nez Forces, inhab- iting a district of country on the Columbia and its tributaries, comrritpcing two hundred and forty miles from its mouth, and stretching to four hundred and eighty into the interior. The Walk wallas, most contiguous to the colony, number some three thousand, including the entire population. They are in general poor, indolent, and sordid, but avaricious ; and what few have property, in horse and herds, are proud, haughty, and insolent. The Keyuse, next easterly, are lc»s numerous, but more formidable, being brave, active, tem])es- tuous, and warlike. Their country is well watered, gently undulating, extremely healthy, and admirably adapted to grazing, as Dr. Marcus Whitman may have informed you, who resides in their midst. They are comparatively rich in Iierds, independent in manner, and not unfrequcntly boister- ous, saucy, and troublesome, in language and behavior. The Nez Forces, still further in the interior, number some- thing less than three thousand ; they inhabit a beautiful grazing district, not suipassed by any I have seen for ver- dure, water privileges, climate or health. This tribe form, to some extent, an honorable exception to the general Indian character, being more noble, industrious, sensible, and better disposed towards the whites, and their improvements in the arts and sciences ; and, though as brave as Ca3sar, the whites have nothing to dread at their hands, in case of their dealing out to them what they conceive to be right and equitable. Of late, these three tribes have become strongly united by reason of much intermarriage. For the last twenty TKr YEAU8 IN OUKOOK. 17.5 ycurH they have been gen:;rully wt;ll disposed towuids the whitos ; but at the time Captain Ijoniieville visit«;d this dis- trict of country, he dealt more profusely "n presents, and paid a higher price for furs, than Mr. Pambro, one of the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company, established at Wal- lawalla, who had long dealt with them, and was previously a general favorite. On Mr. Bonneville's leaving, the; chiefs assembled at tlie fort, and insisted on a change of tlu; tariff in their favor. Pambro refusing, they seized him, stamped violently upon his breast, beat him severely, and retained him prisoner, in rather unenviable circumstances, till they gained, to a considerable extent, their object. Since that time they have been more consecjuential in feeling, and shown less deference and respect to the whites. On the ar- rival of missionaries among them, they have never failed to make, at first, a most favorable impression, which has, in most instances, unfortunately, led to too near an approach to familiarity, operating alike prejudicial to both parties. The Rev. Messrs. Lee and Parker, who made each but a short stay among them, left with like favorable impressions. Their successors, Spalding, Whitman, Gray, and ladies, with oth- ers who r'^mained among them, were at last driven to the conclusion that Indians as much resembled each other in character as in complexion. These worthy people, not well versed in Indian character, and anxious to accomplish a great deal in a short time, resorted to various expedients to induce them to leave off their wandering, migratory habits, and set- tle down contiguous to them in herding and agricultural pursuits, so as to be able to send their numerous and healthy children to school. In these efforts they were zealous and persevering, holding out various inducements as so many stimulants to action, most of which Avould have operated 176 TEN YEARS IN OREQON. 1:, If- i 15 well In civili/.ed life, but generally failing with these Indians', aiid whatever was promised conditionally, whether the con- dition wat: met or otherwise, there was no reprieve — the promised articles must come, and i-ometimes under circum- stances sufficiently trymg, had these missionaries been less devoted, to have driven them from tlicii" post forever. The Indians, having gained one and another victory, be- came more and more insolent, till at last, some time previ- ously to my arrival, they were not only obtrusive and ex- ceedingly annoying about and in the missionaries' houses, but seized one of the clergymen in his own house — without a .shadow of provocation, further than that of treating a better neighboring chief with more respect than they — and insult- ed him most shamefully ; there being no other white person within fifty miles, save his sick and delicate lady. Soon after they commenced on Dr. Whitman ; pulled his ears and hair, and threw off his hat three times in the mud at his feet. A short time after, the chiefs assembled, broke into the house, violently assailed his person with war clubs, and with an a.^e broke down the door leading to his own private apartment. U is generally thought, and possibly with truth, that, on this occasion. Dr. W. would have been killed, had not a party of white men arrived just at this moment.* Never was such an outrage or insult more undeserving. He had built, for the express purpose of Indian accommodation, a house of the same materials, and finished in like manner with his own, of respectable size, and joined to bis, and at all times, night and day, accessible. In addition to this, they were admitted to every room of his house but one. This being closed had I ;i. * It is by the eamc people that this worthy gentleman has so lately b««n murdered TEN YEARS IN OIIEGON". 177 like to have C05t liim his life. He li.ul hardly left for the states last fall, when, sliocking to relate, ut the hour of midnight, a lai-ge Indian chief managed to get into the house, came to the door of Mr.s, Whitman's bedehamber, and had suc- ceeded in gelling it partly open befon; she reached it, A white man, sleeping in an adjoining apartment, saved her from violence and ruin. The villain (^scaped. There wa^ but one thing wrong in this matter on the part of Dr. W. • and that was a great error — leaving his excellent lady thus un- protected in the midst of savage .. A few days after this the]/ burned down the mission mill on his premises, with all its ap[)endages and considerable grain, damaging them not less than twelve or lifteen hundred dullars. Abo'H the same time Mrs, Spaulding was grossly insulted in lier own house, and ordered out of it, in the absence of her husband. In- formation reached him of an Indian having stolen his horse near the same time, he hastened to the spot to secure the animal ; the rougno had crossed the river ; but, immediately returning, he presented his loaded gun, cocked, at the breast of Mr. Spalding, abused and menaced as far as possible without shooting him. In addition to this, some of our own parly were robbed opcn'y of considerable property, and some twehe horses were stolet'. by night. All this information, coming near the eame time, was peculiarly embarrassing, especially as my in- btrucl ions would not allow me to exceed, for office, interpreter, and every other pur[)os<', one thousand two hundred and fifty dollars per annum. On the other hand, their passport signed by the secretary of war made it my imperative duly to protect theai in their persons at least from outrage. I did not long hesitate, but called on Thomas McKay, long in the employ- ment of the Hudson's I>av Comnanv as exDh>rer and leader *v .'• ■ 12 ly Uompany 178 TEN YEARS JHf ORKGOW. m ' 'I % of parties, who, from his frank, generous disposition, to- srether with his universal success in Indian Avarfarc, lias oh- tained an extensive influence over the aborigines of this country, and placing the facts before him, he at once con- sented to accompany me to this scene of discord and conten- tion. We took but six men with us, armed in tlic best man ner, a sufficient number to command respect and secure the object of our undertaking — McKay assuring me, from his familiar acquaintance with these Indians, and their thorough knowledge of the use of arms, that if hostile intentions werr entertained, it would require a larger party than we could raise in this country to subdue them. Obtaining Cornelius Rogers and IJatteus Dorion,* as interpreters, we set out on the * Batteus Dorion was iheson of Mr. Huni'a interpreter, Pierre Dori- on, who, with his heroic spouse, is so often nieationed In Irving's Asto- ria. " As McKenzic, Clark, and Stuart were proceeding up the Co- lumbia, near the mouth of the Wallawalla river, several Indian canoes put off from .he shore to overtake them, and a voice called upon iliem in French to stop. They accordingly put to shore, and were joined Lj those in the canoes. To their surprise, they recognized in the person who had hailed them, the Indian v/ife of Pierre Dorion, accompanied by her two children. She had a story to tell ; involving the fate of sev- eral of our unfortunate adventurers. Mr. John Reed, the Hibernian^ it will be remembered, had been detached during the summer to Snake River. This party consisted of four Canadians, together with two hunters, Pierre Dorion and Pierre Dclaunay ; Dorion, as usual, being accompanied by his wife andchildien. The objects of thia expedition were two-fold, to trap beaver, and to search for the three hunters, Rob- inson, Iloback and Rczner. In the course of the autumn, Reed lost one man, by death ; another one, who was of a sullen, perverse di.'^po- fllticin, left in a moody fit, and was never heard of afterwards. Tb« number of his party was not, however, reduced by these losses, as the three hunters, Robinson, Hoback and Reznerhid joined it. Reed now built a house on Snake liver, for their winter quarters; which beinc A TEK YEARS IN OREGON. 179 15th of Novomber — as McKay justly denominated it— our voyage of misery, having a journey, by water and land, of not less than nine liundred and tifty miles, principally over open plains, cov ered with snov/, and several times under tbe ■completed, the pa'tyset about trapping. Rezner, Le Clcrc, and Pierre Dorion, went about five days' journey from the wintering house, tea part of the country well atockej with beaver. Herelhry put up a hut ond proceeded Jo trap with great success. While the men were out hunting, Pierre Dorion's wife "emained at home to dress the skins and prepare the meals. She was thus employed one evening, about the be- ginning of January, cooking the supper of the hunters, when she heard footsteps, and Le Clerc staggered, pale and bleeding, into the hut. He informed her that a party of sa\'age3 iiad surprised tkem, while at their traps, and killed Rezner and her l.^'band. He had barely strength IHit (o give this information, when he sank upon the ground. The poor woman saw that the only chance for life was instani flight, but, in thia exigency, showed that presence of mind, and force of character for which she had frequently heen noted. With great difficulty, she caugh' two of the horses belonging to the party ; wh 1: • "fv ! 'vl :|.ir^ i.i wl' ■'•;'/ ^'i Pi'^K'il •' '■ H H^^H k H^ ^^H I (5 • ]f n necessity of spcndini^ tlio night wilbout wood or fire, otlicr than what was made by a small growth of wild sage, hardly Bufficicnt to boil the tea hettlc. The gentlemen, as wc called at Fort Vancou^er, did every thing in their power to make tlie journey comfortable, but evidently felt anxious concern- children than herself. At length she reached a range of ihc Rocky Mountains, near the upper part of the Wallawalla river. Here she ch 'fc a wild, lonely ravine, a? her place of winter refuge. She had fortunately a bufialo robe and throe deer skins ; of those, and pine bark and cedar branches, she constructed a lude wigwam, which she pitched beside a mountain spring. Having no otlicr food, she killed two hor- aea, and smoked their flesh. The skins aided to cover her hut. Here she dr.igged out the winter, wiih no other cinpany than her two chil- Jren. Towards the middle of March, her provisions were nearly ex- hausted. She therefore picked up the remainder, slung it on her back, and with her helpless little ones, set out again on her wanderings Crossing the ridge of mountains, she descended to the banks of the Wallawalla, and kept along ihem uniil she arrived where that river throws itself into the Columbia. She was hospjialdy received and en- tertained by the Wal wadu's, and had been nearly two weeks among them when the two canoee passed. On being interrogated, she could assign no reason for this murderous attack of thes'ivages; it appeared to be perfectly wanton and unprovoked. Some of the Astorians sup» posed it an act of butchery by a roving band of Blackfeet, others, how- ever, and with greater probability of correctness, have ascribed it to the tribe of Piercednosed Indians, in rev nge for the death of a comrade, hanged by order of Mr Clarke. If so, it shows that these sudden and appaiently wanton outbreakings of sanguinary violence on the part of the savages, have otien s. me previous, though perhups remote provoca- tion." — Irving'K Astoria. Dr. White saw tliis woman living conifortTbly in the Willamette valley, with a Canadian Frenchman, to whom she had long been mar- ried. She presented him several pairs of moccasins, very neatjy execu- ted, after the most approved fashion of her tribe. Ha was \tiy much uDpretised with her noble, commanding bearing. U TEN TEARS IN OUKOON. 181 ing our safety. We readied the Dalles, some two hundr .'d and twenty mik i fio.n tlie Pacific, 0:1 the 24ih having boea deatained by wind, spent several days with the Methodist mission families, who welco-ned us joyfully, and made our stiiy agreeable and refreshing-. Mrs. Dr. Wliitman was here, having found it improper and unsafe to remain where she had been so lately grossly insulted. Ilcr noble and intellec- tual mind and spirit -were much depressed, and her heallh suffering ; but still entertaining for the people or Indiars of her charge the feelings of a mother towards ungrat>^ful il- dren ; our visit encouraged her. We proci.red horses and travelled by land to Wallawaila, onchund)ed and forty miles above, reaching the Hudson's T3ay establishment on the 30th. Mr. McKinley, the gentleman in charge, to whom the mis- sionaries are indebted for many kind oflices in this isolated portion of the earth, resolved to make it a common cause, and stand or fall with us. We reached Waiilat])u, the sta- tion of Dr. Whitman, the day following, and were shocked and pained at beholding the sad work of savage destruction upon this hitherto neat and commodious little establishment. The Indians in the vicinity were few and .shy. I thought best to treat them with reserve, but made an appointment to meet the chiefs and tribe on my return. Left the day following for the station of Mr. Spaulding among the Ncz- percs, some one hundred and twenty or one hundred ami thirty miles from Waiilaptu ; reached it on the 3rd of De- cember, after a rather pleasant journey over a most verdent and delightfid grazing district, well Avatered, but badly tim bt^red. Having sent a private despatch in advance they had conveyed the inl,(^lligenc<} to the Indians, many of whom were collected. The chiefs met us with civility, gravity and mi 182 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. im '^1 U' ■' i^ ■4 ., dignified reserve, but the missionaries with joyful counte- nances and glad hearts. Seldoni >vas a visit of an Indian agent more desired, nor could one be more necessary and proper. As they were col- lecting, we liad no meeting forcigbt-and-forty hours; in the mean time, through my able interpreter and McKay, I man- aged to secure confidence c.nd prepare the way to a good un- destanding ; visited and prescribed for their sick, made a short call at each of their chief's lodges, spent a season in school, hearing them read, spell, and sing ; at the same time examining their printing and writing, and can hardly avoid here saying I Avas happily surprised and greatly interested at seeing such numbers so far advanced and so eagerly pur- suing after knowledge. The next day I visited their little plantations, rude to be sure, but successfully carried on, so far as raising the necessaries of life were concerned ; and it was most gratifying to witness their fondness and care for their little herds, pigs, poultry, etc. The hour arriving for ihe public interview, I was ushered into the presence of the assembled cliiefs, to the number of twenty-two, with some lesser dignitaries, and a large number of the common peo- ple. The gravity, fixed attention, and decorum, of these sons of.the forest, was calculated to make for them a most favorable impression. I stated explicitly, but briefly as pos- sible, the design of our great chief in sending me to this country, and the present object of my visit; assured them of the kind intentions of our government, and the §ad consequences that would ensue to any white man, from this lime, who should invade their rights, by stealing, murder, selling them damaged for good articles, or alcohol, of which they are not fond. Without threatening, I gave them to un- derstand how highly Mr. and Mrs, Spalding were prized by i / T£N TEARS IN OUEQON. 183 the numerous wliites, and with what pleasure the great chief gave them a passport to encouriige them to come here to teach them what they were now so diligently employed in obtain- sDg, in order that they and their children might become good, wise and happy. After me, Mr. McKinley, the genteraan in charge of the Hudson's Bay establishmern it Wallawalla, spoke concisely, but very properly ; alluded 1.0 his residence of some years, and of the good understanding that had gen- erally existed between them, and of the happiness that he felt that one of his brothers had come to stand and judge impartially between liirn, them, and whites and Indians in general ; declared openly and frankly, that Boston, King George, and French, were all of one heart in this matter, at* tJiey, the Keyuse and Wallawallas should be ; flattered them delicately in view of their — to him — imexpccted advance- ment in the arts and sciences, and resumed his seat, having made a most favorable impression. Next followed Mr. Ro- gers, the interpreter, who, years before, had been employed successfully as linguist in this section of the country by the American board of commissioners, and was ever a general favorite with the people. He adverted sensibly and touchingly to past difficulties between whites and Indians east of the mountains, and the sivd consequences to every tribe who had resisted honorable measures proposed by the more numerous whites ; and hav- ing, as he hoped, secured their confidence in my favor, ex- horted them feelingly to adopt such measures as should be thought proper for their benefit. Next, and lastly, arose Mr. McKay, and remarked with a manner peculiar to himself, and evidently with some emo- tion : I appear among you as one arisen from the long sleep of death. You know of the violent death of my father on 184 TEN YEAUS IN OREf.ON. i;? :4*. board the ship Tonquin, who was one of the partners of the Astor company ; I was but a youth ; ^hco. which time, till the last five years, 1 have been a wand(irer througli these wilds; none of you, or any Indians of this country, having travelled so constantly or extensively as 1 have, and yet J saw you or your fathers onee or more annually, 1 have min- gled with you in bloody wars and profound peace ; I have stood in your midst, surrounded by plenty, and suffered with you in seasons of scarcity ; Ave have had our days of wild and joyous sports, and i-ights of watching- and deep con- cern, till I vanished from among men, left the Hudson's Baj com]!any, silently retired to my plantation, and there con- lined myself. There I was, still, silent, and as one dead ; the voice of my brother, at last, aroused me ; I spoke and looked ; I mounted my horse — am here. I am glad it is so. I come at the call of the great chief, the chief of all the whites in the country, as well as the Indians, the son of the mighty chief whose children are more numerous than the stars in the heavens or the leaves of the forest. Will you hear, and be advised ? You will. Your wonderful improvements in the arts aiui sciences prove you are not fools. Surely you will hear ; but if disposed to close your ears and stop thera, they will be torn open wide, and you will be made to hear. This speech from Mr. McKay, whose mother is a native, though the wife of Gov. McLaughlin, had a singularly happy influence, and opened the way for expressions on the other side, from which there had not hitherto been a sentence ut- tered. First aiose Five-Crows, a wealthy chief of forty- five, neatly attired in English costume. lie stepped gravely but modestly forward to the table, remarking : It does not become me to speak first; I am but a youth, as yet, when compared to many of these my fathers; but my feclincrs tv- TKN YEAlia IN ORKCiON". 18A urge me to arise and say ^Thilt I iini ab«)ut to utter in a very few words. I am glad the cl.ief has come; I have listened to what has been said ; have great hopes that biightcr days are before us, because I see all the whites arc united in this matter ; we have much wanted some thing ; hardly kncv what ; been groping and feeling for it in confusion and dark ness. Here it is. Do wc sec it, and shall we accept ? Soon the Bloody Chief arose — not less than ninety years old — and said : I speak to-day, perhaps to-morrow I die. I am the oldest chief of the tribe ; was the high chief when your great brothers, Lewis and Clarke, visited this coun- try ; they visited me, and honored me with their friendship and counsel. I showed them my numerous wounds received in bloody battle with the Snakes ; they told me it was not good, it was better to be at peace ; gave me a flag of truce ; I held it up high ; we met and talked, but never fought again. Clr-l.e pointed to this day, to you, and this occasion ; we have long waited in expectation ; sent three of our sons to Red river school to prepare for it ; two of them sleep with their fathers ; the other is here, and can be ears, mouth, and pen for us. I can say no more ; I am (luickly tired ; my voice and limbs tremble. I am glad I live to see you and this day, but I shall soon be still and c^uiet in death. The speech was affecting. Six more spoke, and the meet- ing adjourned three hours. Met at the hour appointed. All the chiefs and principal men being jjresent, stated delicately the embarrassed relation existing beiwecn whites and Indi- ans in this upper country, by reason of a want of proper or ganization, or the chief's authority not being propeily re- garded; alluded to some cases of improprieties of young men, not sanctioned bv the chiefs and old men ; and where the chiefs had been in the wrong, hoped it had principally V I, ■ 4; 186 TKN TEARS IN OREGON. ifectly undcrstandi ih other's 1 anguagc m 'iw- j' ;;,}, arisen irom impc or some other excusable cause, especially so far as they were concerned. Advised them, as they were now to some ex- tent prepared, to choose one high chief of the tribe, and acknowledge him as such by universal consent ; all the other subordinate chiefs being of e(jual power, and so many helps to carry out all his lawful loquirements, which they were at once to have in writing, in their own language, to regulate their intercourse with Avhites, and in most cases with them- selves. I advised that each chief have five men as a body guard, to execute all their lawful commands. They desired to hear the laws. I proposed them clau.«e by clause, leav- ing them as free to reject as to accept. They were greatly pleased with all proposed, but wished a heavier penalty to some, and suggested the dog law, which was annexed. We then left them to choose the high chief, assuring them if they did this unanimously by the following day at ten, we would all dine together with the chief on a fat ox at three, himself and myself at the head of the table ; this pleased them well, and they set about it in good cheer and high hopes ; but this was a new and delicate task, and they soon saw and felt it ; however, all agreed that I must make the selection, and HO reported two hours after we left the council. Assuring them this w^ould not answer; that they must select their own chief, they seemed somewhat puzzled, and Avishcd to know if it would be proper to counsel with Messrs. McKay and Ro- gers. On telling them that it was not improper, they felt a little relieved, and worked poor Rogers and McKay severely for many hours ; but altogothcr at length figured it out, and in great good humor, so reported at ten, appointing P^lhs high chief. He is the one alluded to by the Bloody Chief, a sensible man of thirty-two, reading, speaking, and writing '^i"/-'i TBK TSARS IN OREOOK. 187 the English lanirua^o tolerably well ; has a fine small jdanta- tion, a few sheep, some neat stock, and no less than cloven hundred head of horses. Then came on the feasting ; our ox was fat, and cooked and served up in a manner reminding one of the days of yore ; we ate beef, corn, and peas to our till, and in good cheer took the pipe, when Rev. Mr. Spal- ding, Messrs. McKinley, Rogers, and McKay, wished a song from our boatmen ; it was no sooner given than returned by the Indians, and repeated again, again, and again, in high cheer. I thought it a good time, and required all having any claim to bring, or grievances to allege, against Mr. Spal- ding, to meet me and the high chief at evening in the coun- (;il room, and re({ui'sted Mr. Spalding to do the same <»n the part of the Indians. We met at six, and ended at eleven, having accomplished, in the happiest manner, much anxious business. Being too well fed to be irritable, or disposed to quarrel, both parties were frank and open, seeming anxious only to learn our opinion upon plain undis- guised matters of fact, many of the difficulties having arisen from an honest difference of sentiment respecting certain measures. Ellis, the chief, really conducted himself throughout in a manner creditable to his head and heart, was quite as cor- lect in his conclusions and firm in his decisions as could have been expected. The next day we had our last meeting, :md one full of interest, in which they proposed to me many grave and proper questions ; and, as it was manifestly de- sired, I advised in many matters, especially in reference to bogging or even receiving presents, without, in some way, returning a a equivalent; pointed out ui strong language who Ixiggars an among the whites, and how regarded ; and com- mended theiii ((^r not once troubling me, during my stay, "^1 V' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ■^^■2^8 |2.5 •so ■^™ !■■ 1^ m 1.8 11.25 i 1.4 % V] '<3 > '^ ^> :> /: y /s^ Photographic Sciences Corporation iV ^q ^ r<\^ \ :\ «?^.> ■>a WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 W o 6^ i ^ 188 TEN YEARS IN OKBOON. with this disgusting practice ; and as a toltcn of respect, now, at the close of our long and happy meeting, they would please accept, in the name of my great chief, a preseiit of fifty garden hoes, not for those in authority, or those that had no need of them, but for the chiefs and Mr. Spalding to distribute among their industrious poor. I likewise, as they were very needy, proposed and ordered them some me- dicines, to be destributed as they should from time to time be required. This being done, I exhorted them to be in obedience to their chiefs, highly approving the choice they had made, assuring them, as he and the other chiefs were responsible to me for their good behavior, I should feel it my duty to see them sustained in all lawful measures to promote peace and order. I then turned, and with good effect desired all the chiefs to look upon tl'e congregation Jis their own children, and then pointed to Mr. Spalding and lady, and told the chiefs, and all present, to look upon them as their father and mother, and treat them in all respects as such ; and should thsy happen to differ in sentiment respect- ing any matter during my absence, be cautious not to differ in feeling, but leave it till I should again return, when the chief and myself would rectify it. Thus closed this mutually happy and interesting meeting, and, mounting our horses for home, Mr. Spalding and the chiefs accompanied me for some four or five miles, when we took leave of them in the pleas- antest manner, not a single circumstimce having occurred to mar our peace or shake each other's confidence. I shall here introduce a note, previously prepared, giving some further information respecting this tribe, and append a copy of their laws. The Nez Perces have one gover- nor or principal chief, twelve subordinate chiefs of equal power, being the heads of the different villages or clans, with t I i ■# T£K YEARS IN OREOON. 18a Uicir five officers to execute all their lawful orders, which law they have printed in their own language, and read ua- derstandingly. The chiefs are held responsible to the whitca for the good behavior of the tribe. They arc a happy and orderly people, forming an honorable exception to the gene- ral Indian character, being more industrious, cleanly, sensi- ble, dignified, and virtuous. This organization was ellccled last fall, and operates well, and with them, it is to be hoped, will succeed. A few days since Governor McLaughlin favored me with a note address- ed to him from the Rev. II. II. Spalding, missionary to this tribe, stating as follows: "The Indians in this vicinity are remarkably quiet this winter, and are highly pleased with the laws recommended by Dr. White, which were unanimously adopted by the chiefs and people in council assembled. The visit of Dr. White and assistants to this upper country will evidently prove an incalculable blessing to this peo])le. The school now numbers two hundred and twenty-four in daily attend- ance, embracing most of the chiefs and principal men of the nation." -'•t: (' > gover- cqual IS, with LAWS OF THE NES PEUCKS. Art. 1. Whoever wilfully takes life shall be hung. Art. 2. Whoever burns a dwelling house shall be hung. AuT. 3. Whoeve?' burns an outbuilding shall be impris- oned six months, receive fifty lashes, and pay all damages. Am. 5. If any one enter a dwelling, without permission of the occupant, the chiefs shall punish him as they think proper. Art. G. If any one steal he shill pay back two fold ; and if it be the value of a beaver skin or loss, he shall receive 190 TEN TEARS IV OREGOK. ill * twenty-live lasLes ; and if the value is over a l)eaver stin he shall pay back two-fold, and receive fifty lashes. Art. 7. If any one take a horse, and ridi it, without permission, or take any article, and use it, without liberty, he shall pay for the use of it, and receive from twenty to fifty lashes, as the chief shall direct. Art. 8. If any on.; enter a field, and injure the crops, or throw down the fence, so that cattle or horses go in and do damage, he shall pay all damages, and receive twenty five lashes for every offence. Art. 9. Those only may keep dogs who travel or live among the game ; if a dog kill a iamb, calf, or any domestic animal, the owner shall pay the damage, an^l kill the dog Art. 10. If an Indian raise a gun or other weapon against a white man, il shall be reported to the chiefs, and they shall punish him. If a white person do the same to an Indian, it shall be reported to Dr. White, and he shall r*-- dress it. Art. 11. Tf an Indian break these laws, he shall be pun ished by his chiefs ; if a white man break them, he shall b** reported to the agent, and be punished at his instance. After a severe journey of some four 'lays, through the inclemency of the weather, we reached Waiilaptu, Dr Whitman's station, where we had many most unpleasant matters to settle with the Keyuse tribe — such as personal abuse to Dr. Whitman and lady, burning the mill, • i-i :m 204 TKN TEAKS IN OREGON. '■ W: •I there were the wandering children of a necessarily wandering people to collect and bring permanently within the reach of the school. Over this department of labor hung the dark- est cloud, as the Indian is noted for despising manuel labor; but I would acknowledge, with humble gratitude, the inter- position of that hand which holds the hearts of all men. The hoe soon brought hope, light, and satisfaction, the fruits of which are yearly becoming much more than a sub- stitute for their former precarious game and roots, and are much preferred by the people, who arc coming in from the mountains and plains, and calling for hoes, pic, vs, and seeds, much faster than they can be furnished, and collecting around the station in increasing numbers, to cultivate their little farms, so furnishing a permanent school and congrega- tion on the Sabbath, from four to eight months. And as the farms are enlarged, giving employment and food for the year, I trust the school and congregation will be permanent through the year. It was no small tax on my time to give the first lessons on agriculture. That the first men of this nation — the first chiefs not excepted — rose up to labor when a few hoes and seeds were offered them, I can attribute to nothing but the unseen hand of the God of missions. That their habits arc really changed is acknowledged by them- selves. The men say, whereas they once did not labor with their hands, now they do ; and often tell me in jesting that I have converted them into a nation of wom3n. They are a very industrious people, and, from very small beginnings, they now cultivate their lands with much skill and to good advantage. Doubtless many more would cultivate, but for the want of means. Your kind donation of fifty hoes, in be- half of the gc -ernment, will be most timely ; and should you be able to send up the plows you kindly proposed, they ' >' TBN TEARS IN ORSGOK. 205 Lhey will, without doubt, be purchased immediately, and put to the best use. But to return to the school. It now numbers two hun- dred and twcn'.y-fivc in daily attendance, half of which are adults. Nearly all the principal men and chiefs in this vicin- ity, with one chief from a neighboring tribe, are members of the school. A new impulse was given to the school by the warm inierest you aad Mr. McKay took in it while you we:e here. They aie as industrious in school as they are on their farms. Ti.eir improvement is astonishing, considering their crowded condition, and only Mrs. Spalding, with her deli- cate constitution and her family cares, for their teacher. About one hundred are printing their own books with a pen. This keeps up a deep interest, as they daily have new lessons to print, and what they print must be committed to memory as soon as possible. A good number are now so far advanced in reading and printing as to render much assistance in teaching. Their books are taken home at nights, and every lodge becomes a school room. Their lessons arc scripture lessons — no others, except the laws, seem to interest them. I send you a specimen of the books they print in school. It was printed by ten select adults, yet it is a fair specimen of a great number in the school. The laws which you so happily prepared, and which were u!5animously adopted by the people, I have printed in the form of a small school book. A gi eat number of the school now road them fluently. I send you a few copies of the laws, with no apologies for the imperfect maimer in which they are executed. Without doubt, a school of nearly the same number could be collected at Kimiuh, the station above • ■ r h 206 TSN TEAR8 IH OREGOK. -. ■», 11 HI ^ this, vacated by Mr. Smith, the present residence of Ellis, the principal chief. Number who cultivate. — Last season about one hundred and forty cultivated from one-fourth of an acre to four or five acres each. About half this number cultivate in the valley. One chief raised about one hundi-ed and seventy-six bushels of peas last season, one hundred of com, and four hundred of potatoes. Another one hundred and fifty of peas, one hundred and sixty o( corn, a large quantity of vegetables, potatoes, etc. Ellis, I believe, raised rather more than either of the above mentioned. Some forty other individuals raised from twenty to one hundred bushels of various grains. Eight individuals are now furnished with plows. Thirty- two head of cattle are possessed by two individuals ; ten sheep by four ; tcme forty hogs. Arts and sciences. — Mrs. Spalding has instructed ten fe- males in knitting, a majority of the female department in the schools in sewing, six in carding and spinning, and three in weaving. Should our worthy brother and sister, Mr. and Mrs. Littlejolin, join us soon, as is now expected, I trust, by the blessing of God, we shall see greater things than we have yet seen. From what I have seen in the field, the school, the spinning and weaving room, in the prayer room, and Sabbath congregation, I am fully of the opinion that this people are susceptible of high moral and civil improve- ment. Moral character of the people. — On this point there is a great diversity of opinion. One writer styles them more a nation of saints than of savages ; and if tlieir refusing to move camp for game, at his suggestion, on a certain day, re- minded him that the Sabbath extended as far west as the Rocky Mountains, he might well consider them such. An- 'i- ■| :-■ wL^ii^ TEN YEARS I'V OREGOy. 207 of Ellis, hundred ur or five ic valley. c bushels hundred peas, one jgctablcs, lian either lals raised IS grains. Thirty- luals ; ten cd ten fe- mentinthc i three in Mr. and I trust, by than we field, the ayer room, )inion that improve- there is a iin more a efusing to ain day, re- est as the uch. An- other styles them supremely selfish, which is nearer the truth ; for, without doubt, they are the descendants of Adam. What I have above stated is evidently a part of the bright side of their character. But there is also a dark side, in which I have sometimes taken part. I must, however, con- fess that when I attempt to name it, and hold it up as a marked exception to a nation in similar circumstances, with- out the restraint of wholesome laws, and strangers to the heaven-born fruits of enlightened and well-regulated society, I am not able to do it. Faults they have, and very great ones, yet few of them seemed disposed to break the Sabbath by travelling and other secular business. A very few indulge in something like profane swearing. Very few are super- stitiously attached to their medicine men — who are, without doubt, sorcerers — and supposed to be leagued with a super- naturcil being — wakin — who ihows himself somstimcs in the gray bear, the wolf, the swan, goose, Avind, clouds, etc. Lying is very common ; thieving comparatively rare ; po- lygamy formerly common, but now rare ; much gambling among the young men ; quarrelling and fighting quite rare«; habit of taking back property after it is sold is a practice quite common, and very evil in its tendency. All these evils, I conceive, can be traced to the want of wholesome laws and well-regulated society. There arc two traits in the char- acter of this people I wish to notice. One I think I can ac- count for ; the other I cannot. It is often said the Indian is a noble-minded being, never forgetting a kindness. So far as my experience has gone with this people, the above is most emphatically true, but in quite a different sense from the idea there conveyed. It is true they never forget a kindness, but often make it an occasion to ask another ; and if refused, return insults recording to the favors received. My experi- •r(?at quantity ficient for one hundred and titty families. The Wallawalla, another south brunch, evidently contains more tillable land, including its many branches, than any other stream in tho upper country. I judge that three hundred and fifty fami- lies could comfortably locate on this river and its branchea. I speak of white families. Probably it would sustain thrco times that number of Indian families, as they will always live more or less upon fish. The mission station of Dr. Whitman, among the Keyuse, is on the upper waters of the Wallawall I. The Wallawalla river proper probably may bo cultivated for thirty miles; the Tusha, its principal branch, perhaps for fifty miles ; the Sataksnima, a small branch, fif- teen miles. On the Tshimnap, Okunagan, and some other rivers coiring into the Columbia river from the west, there is said to be more or less tillable land. The Tuckiuian, a south brunch of the Snake river, some seventy miles above its mouth, contains some land apparently of the best quality. It resembles a piece in this valley, which has produced one thousand four hundred bushels of potatoes to the acre. The tillable land extends up the Tuckanan, twelve miles, anfl about five up the Pataha, a branch. Probably sixty families could locate here. This is a favorable location for a settle- ment, by reason of the advantages of the large river for transportation and rafting timber. The Psduse, putting in from the opposite side of the Tuckanan, contains some good land. This valley — Lapwai — will probably settle two hun- dred and fifty families of Indians. Most of the land is al- ready taken up. Yucktoin, putting in from the opposite side, three miles above this, will settle as many more. There are said to be several other valleys between this and the ■i,< W y^f •■'$'■ I I \ -'^' V*- I'i if" «12 TKN TEARS IN ORROOW. mouhlains, conUining iirublc liuul. The O and round Is a beuutilul pl.iin, (il'ty m'xWs in circuit, on the route from fort Boisi to Walliiwalla, probably all susceptible of lultivulion. It is surrounded by mountains and may be frosty. About forty miles southeast of this is anothenich valley, of some Ihirty-fivc miles in length, interspersed with 1 irge plats of white clover, through which a beautiful lake pours its cold Tfaters in a rapid liver, which unites with the Grand Hound, and forms the Wailua, a branch of the Snake river. There are three or four other considerable streams putting into the Snake river above this, from the south, on two or three of which there arc said to be large fertile plains. 1 know of but very little arable land in the vicinity of Salmon river. On the Shuhspalanim.t and Quaicksnima, two considerable branches of the Snake river, above Salmon, there is said to be some good land. Dr. Whitman writes me from fort Hall, saying that in his journey to that place he travelled some fifty miles up the Boisi liver, and thinks there is more good land on it than on any other stream with which he is ac- quainted in this upper country. There is an extensive red clover plain, commencing about five miles south of this station, which I think would pro- duce ; but there is no timber, and very little water. Doubt- less many other arable valleys will show themselves, as the country becomes more thoroughly explored. Your humble servant, H. H. SPALDING. Dr. Whitb, Agent of Indian Affaus west of the Rocky Mountana. 1 m Vtn YEARS IN OIUCOOV. 313 [O. CIIAPTEU XX. Excitement among tho Indians — DifTcrpnt viewaof (he alarmed whites — Another journey — State of the Indians — Mr. Spalding's station — Nez IVrccs — Key uses and Walla wa'lns — Presence of the women at the feast — Peace — Visit the Dalles — Course of the agent — Laws of the whites — Immigrating party — Willamette valley — Gov. McLaugh- lin — False reports — Schools — Mission cl:iim — Mr. Lee — iDslructions to immigrants — Oregon Institute — Letters. Willamette Valley, Oregon, Nov. 15, 1843. HoNOuniD Sir — Since my arrival, I have hud the honor of addressing you some three or four communicjitlons, the last of which loft early in April, conveyed by the Hudson's Bay Company's express over the Rocky Mountains, via. Can- ada, which I hope and judge was duly received. Immediately after this, I received several communications from missionaries of the interior, some from the Methodists, and those sent out by the American board, representing the Indians in the interior as in a great state of excitement, and under much apprehension from the circumsUince that such number of whites were coming in, as they were informed, to take possession of their land and country. The excitement soon became general, both among whites and Indians, in this lower as well as upper district ; and such were the constantly floating groundless reports, that much uneasiness was felt, and some of our citizens were under such a state of appre- hensions as to abandon their houses, and place themselves more immediately within the precincts of the colony. As in all such cases, a variety of opinions were entertained and 214 TEN TEAKS IN OREO ON. it. :ii expressed — some pleading for me, at the expense of tlie gen- cml government, to throw up a strong foitification in the centre of the colony, and furnish tin* settlers ^vith guns and ammunition, so that we might be prepared for extremities. Others thought it more advisable for me to go with an armed force of considerable stiength to the heart and centre of the conspiracy, as it '.vas represented, and if words will not an- swer, make power and balls doit. A third party en^rjrtain- ed diffoi-ent views, and few were really agreed on any one measure. As may be imagined, I felt the awkwardness of my posi- tion ; but, without stopping to consult an agitated populace, selected a sensible clergyman and a single attendant, with my interpreter, and so managed as to throw myself imme- diately into their midst unobserved. The measure had the desired effect — though, as in my report I will more fully in- form you, had like to have cost me my life. The Indians flocked around me, and inquired after my par- ty, and could not be persuaded, for some time, but that I had a large party concealed somewhere near, and only wait- ed to get them convened, to open a fire upon, and cut thena all off at a blow. On convincing them of my defenceless condition and pacific intentions, they were quite astounded and much affected, assuring me they had been under strong apprehensions, having learned I was soon to visit them with a lar^c armed party, with hostile intentions, and I actually found them suffering more from fears of war from the whites, than the whites from the Indians — each party resolving, however, to remain at home, and tliere fight to the last — though, fortunately, some three or four hundred miles apart. The day following we left these Wallawallas and Keyuses, TBN TEARS IN OREGON. 215 to pay a \iM to the Ncz Pcrces, promising to call on our re- turn, and enter into a treaty of amity, if we eoulJ agree on the terms, and wished them to give general notice to all con- cerned, of both tribes. In two days we were at Mr. Spalding's station. The Nez Perces came together in greater numbers than on any for- mer occasion for years, and all the circumstances combining to favor it, received us most cordially. Their improvement during the winter, in reading, Avriting, etc., was considera- biC, and the enlargement of their plantations, with the in- creased variety and quantities of the various kinds of grains and products now vigorously shooting forth, connected with the better state of cultivation and their universally good fen- ces, were certainly most encouraging. Spending some days with this interesting tribe, and their devoted missionaries, in the pleasantest manner, they accept- ed my invitation to visit with me the Keyusesand Wallawal- las, and assist by their influence to jring them in:o the same regulation they had previously adopted, and with which all were so well pleased. Mv. Spalding and Ellis, the high chief, with every other chief laid brave of importance, and some four or five hun- dred of the men and their women, accompanied us to Wiiii- laptu. Dr. Whitman's sUition, a distance of a hundred and twenty mile.s, where we met the Keyuses and Waliawallas in mass, and spent some five or six days in getting matters adjusted and piinciples settled, so as to receive the Keyuses into the civil compact ; wliich being done, and the high chief elected, much to the satisfaction of both whites and Indians, I ordered two fat oxen killed, and wheat, sail, etc., distrib- uted accordingly. ***** This was the first feast at which the Indian women of thia :. <■ ■ffe In 216 TEN YKAR8 IN OREOOK. ! Vi country were ever permitted to be present, but probably will not be the last ; for, after some explanation of my rea- sons, the chiefs were hiijhly pleased with it ; and I believe more was done at that feast to elevate and bring forward their poor, oppressed women than could have been done in years by private instruction. The feast broke up in the happiest manner after Fivo- Crcws, the Keyuse chief, Ellis, and the old war chief of whom I made particular mention in my last report as being BO well acquainted with Clarke, and a few others, had made their speeches, and we had smoked the pipe of peace, which was done by all in great good humor. From this, we proceeded to the Dalles on the Columbia river, where I spent two months in instructing the Indians of different tribes, who either came in mass, or sent ambas- sadors to treat with me, or, as they denominate it, take my laws, which are thus far found to operate well, giving them greater security among themselves, and helping much to regulate their intercourse with the whites. Beinof exceed- ingly anxious to bring about an improvement and reforma- tion among this people, I begged money and procured arti- cles for clothing to the amount of a few hundred dollars, not to be given, but to be sold out to the industrious women, for mats, baskets, and their various articles of manufacture, in order to get them clothed comfortably to appear at church ; enlisted the cheerful co-operation of the mission idies in in- structing them how to sew and make up their dresses ; and had the happiness to see some twenty of these neatly clad at divine service, and a somewhat larger number out in the hap- piest mood to a feast I ordered them, at which the mission ladies and gentlemen were present. During these two months I labored hurd, \isiting many i» • IP TBN TEARS IN OREOOK. 217 of their sick daily ; and by the most promf)t and kind atten- tion, and sympathizing with them in their affliction, encour- aging the industrious and virtuous, and frowning in hmguago and looks upon the vic'ous, I am satisfied good was done. They gave evidence of attachment ; and my influence was manifestly increased, as well as the laws more thoroughly understood, by reason of my remaining so long among them. During my up-country excursion, the whites of the colo- ny convened, and formed a code of laws to regulate inter- couise between themselves during the absence of law from our mother country, adopting in almost all respects the Iowa code. In this I was consulted, and encouraged the meas- ure, as it was so manifestly necessary for the collection of debts, securing rights in claims, and the regulation of gen- eral intercourse among the whites. Thus far, these laws have been of some force and impor- tance, answering well in cases of trespass and the collec- tion of debts ; but it is doubtful how they would succeed in criminal affairs, especially if there should happen to be a division of sentiment in the public mind. The Indians of this lower country, as was to be expected, give considerable trouble, and are most vexatious subjects to deal with. In mind the weakest and most depraved of their race, and physically, thoroughly contaminated with the scrofula, and a still more loathsome disease entailed by the whites ; robbed of their game and former means of cover- ing ; lost to the use of the bow and arrow ; laughed at, scoffed, and contemned by the whites, and a hiss and by- word to the surrounding tribes, ihey are too dejected and depressed, to feel the least pleasure in their former amuse- ments, and wander about seeking generally a scanty pittance by begging and pilfering, but the more ambitious and des- P I: jf ■' -' ,■ '^ 218 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. l r. perate among tlicm stealing, and in some instances plunder- ing on a large scale. Were it not that greater forbearance is exercised towards tliem than whites generally exercise, bloodshed, anarchy, and confusion would reign piedomimmt among us. But, thus far, it is but just to say, the Indians have been, in almost every instance, the aggressors ; and though none of us now apprehend an Indian war or inva- sion, it appears to me morally impossible that geneial quiet can long be secure, unless government take almost immedi- ate measures to relieve the anxieties and better the condiuoa of these poor savages and other Indians of this country. I am doing what I can, by reason of my profession, with lend- ing them all the assistance possible in sickness, and sympa- thizing with them in their numerous afflictions, and occa- sionally feeding, feasting, and giving them little tokens of kind regard, have as yet considerable influence over them, but have to punish some, and occasion the chiefs to punish more, which creates me enemies, and must eventuate in les- sening my influence among them, unless the means arc put in my hands to sustain and encourage the chiefs and well- disposed among them. Good words, kind looks, and medi- cine, have i^ome power ; but, honored and very dear sir, you and / know they do not tell with Indians like blankets and present articles, to meet their tastes, wants, and necessities. Sir, I know how deeply anxious you are to benefit and save what can be of the withering Indian tribes, in which God knows how fully and heartily I am with you, and earnestly pray you, and through you our general government, to Uike immediate measures to satisfy the minds, and, so far as pos- sible, render to these Indians an equivalent for their once nu- merous herds of deer, elk, buffalo, beaver, and otter, nearly as tame as our domestic animals, previously to the whites and TSK TKAR8 IK OREGON. 219 their fi -c arms coming among them, and of which (hoy are now snipped, and for which they suffer. But, if nothing can be (htne for them on this score, pray sav(^ them from be- ing f(>;-c:ihly ejected from the lands and graves of tlieir fath- ers, of which they begin to entertain serious fears. Many are becoming considerably enlightened on the subject of the white man's policy, and begin to quake in view of their fu- ture doom ; and come to me fiom time to time, anxiously in- quiiing what they are to receive for such an one coming and cutting off all their most valuable timber, and floatinrj it to the falls of the Willamette, and getting large sums for it ; some praying the removal of licentious whites from among them ; others requiring pay for their old homestead, or a re- moval of the intruders. So, sir, you see already I have my hands, head and heart full ; and if as yet I have succeeded in giving satisfaction — as many hundreds that neither know nor care for me, nor rejjard in the least the rijjhts of the In- dians are now flocking in — something more must be done, and that speedily, or a storm ensues. I remove all licentious offenders from among them, espe- cially if located a distance from the colony, and encourage the community to keep within bounds, and settle as com- pactly as the general interest and duty to themselves w^ill admit. The large immigrating party have now arrived, most of them with their herds, having left the wagons at Wallawalla and the Dalles, which they intend to bring by land or water to the Willamette in the spring. Whether they succeed in getting them through by land the last sixty miles is doubt- ful, the road not having been as yet well exploied. They are greatly plea.'^ed with the country and its prospects. Mr. Applegate, who has been so much ir government employ . " ^f, 220 TEN TEARS IN OREOOK. '•| 1 1 ■ •. , 1-1 and surveyed such portions of the Missouri, says of this val- ley, it is a country of the greatest beauty and the finest soil he his seen. Having visited larger portions, and in different directions, the last summer than heretofore-^principally in the moun- tainous parts between this and tlie Dalles — I am most cheer- ful in saying I have not seen a country presenting such a variety of beautiful scenery, and possessing, at the same time, such advantages of timber, water, strength of soil, and mildness of climate ; and, as to health, having visited six- teen of the United States, the Sandwich islands, with some other portions of the earth, I must say, after practising med- icine somewhat extensively for the last six years, I regard it the most healihy country with which I am acquainted ; dis- eases the least numerous in class, and simple in character, being entirely under the control of proper remedies. The settlers are actively and vigorously employed, and the colony in a most prosperous state ; crops of every kind hav- ing been unusually good this season. The little unhappy difference between the American settlers and the Hudson's Bay Company, arising from the last spring's petition to our government, has been healed, and we have general quiet — both parties conducting very properly towards each other at present. And here allow me to say, the seasonable service in which hundreds of dollars were gratuitously expended in assisting such numbers of our poor emigrant citizens down the Columbia to the Willamette, entitle Gov. McLa^orhlin, saying nothing of his previous fatherly and fostering care of this colony, to the honorable consideration of the members of this government. And I hope, as he is desirous to settle with his family in this country, and has made a claim at the falls of the Willamette, his claim will be honored in such a TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 221 innnncr as to make liim conscious that wc, as a nation, are not insensible to his numerous acts of benevolence and hos- pitality towards our countrymen. Sir, in the midst of slan- der, envy, jealousy, and, in too many instances, of the black- est ingratitude, his unceasing, never tiling hospitality aiTects me, and makes him appear in a widely different light than too many would have hi/n and his worthy associates appear be- fore the world. The last year's report, in which was incorporated Mr. Linn's Oregon Speech and Captahi Spalding's statements of hundreds of unoffending Indians being shot down annually by men under his control, afllicts the gentlemen of the Hud- son's Bay Company, and is utterly without foundation — no company or gentlemen ever having conducted more judi- ciously among Indiums than they uniformly have done in this country ; and I am of the Governor's opinion, who declares, openly, there have not ten Indians been killed by whites in this whole region west of Fort Hall, for the last twenty years, nor do I know of that number, and two of those were killed by our citizens. "What were destroyed by the Hud- son's Bay Company suffered for wilful murder, none pre- tending a doubt of the propriety of the course adopted. There are now four schools kept in the colony, of which I shall speak more fully in my annual report — one at the Pal- atine Plains, under the direction and au? pices of the Rev. Mr. Clark, a self-supporting missionary ; a second — French and English — school, is in succes.sful operation by Mr. Dlan- chette, Roman Catholic missionary to this colony ; a third ia w^ell supported by the citizens, and kept at the fulls of the Wilhimette ; a fourth — boarding and manual labor — sustain- ed by the Methodist board of missions, for the benefit of In- dian youth, of which Mr. Lee will speak particularly. The i 222 TEN YttARS IN ORKOON. ■' ^ P location is liealili}', eligible, and beautiful, and llie noble ed- ifice does honor to the benevolent cause and agents that founded it. And while here, allow me to say Mr. Jesse Ap- plegate, fiom Missouri, is now surveying the mission claim, a plan of which will be presented to the consideraiion of the mL'mbor.s of our government, for acceptance or ollurwise, of ■Nvhioh 1 have but little to say, as I entertain no doubt Mr. Lee's representation will be most faithful. Should the ground of his claim be predicated upon the much effected for the benefit of the Indians, I Jim not with him ; for, with all that has been expended, without doubting iho cor- rectness of the ntenlion, it is most manifest to every observer that the Indians of this lower country, as a whole, have been veiy liule benefitted. They were too far gone wilh scrofula and veneieal. Cut should he insist, as a reason of h's claim, the benefit arising to the colony and country, I am w ilh him heartily ; and notwithstanding the claim is a valuable one, this country has been increased more by the mission opera- tions, tlian twice its amount in finance ; besides, much has been done in advancing civilization, temperance, literature, and good morals, saying nothing of the evils that must have arisen in this lawless country in the absence of all moral re- straint. Mr. Lee was among the first pioneers to this distant land, has struggled in its cajes, toils, and trials, has lisen with its lise ; and it is but just to say, he and his associates are e.xeriing a considerable and most salutary influence all abroad among us. I hope liis reception will be such that he will return fiom Washington cheered and encouraged to pursue his bsnevolent operations in this country. The Cath- olic and the different Protestiint missions have been pros- perous during the last year, and are as generally acciptiiblc 1*- TEN YEARS IN OREGOV. 223 to l1;e wliitc'S as could, from their diffuront f ur.-uits, be ex- pected. ******* In ('lo>in? 7KARS IK ORKOOM. I .' i v.. .. tant country, it Avill croatc a disafToetion ko strong as to end only in open robcllion ; whereas, should it pass into a law, it will be regarded as most liberal and hand^onric, and \\ill bo appreciated by most, if not all in Oregon. As to the cliim for the Oregon institute, I need say no- thing, having said enough in my last report; but, as that may have failed in rcaehing, I would just remark, that the location is a heabhy one, and the site fine, with prospect charmingly varied, extensive and beautiful, I leave this sultject with Mr. Lee and the members of our liberal government, not doubling but that all will be done for this institute, and otherwise, that can be, and as soon as practicable, to lay deep and broad the foundation of science and literature in this country. And here I must close, as Mr, Lee is already sixty miles on his way, but not without saying I am much obliged in getting your last report, which reached me a few weeks since, and shall feel still more obliged and honored in getting a communication from your own pen, enlightening, correct- ing, encouraging, or admonishing me, in my new and diffi- cult woik, and certainly most awkward position, in which, Jia yet, I have succeeded better with both whites and Indians than I expected, and can but hope some good has been ef- fected by my appointment, especially to the latter. As my former worthy interpreter is de.id, allow me to priy the appointment of Ellis, the high chief of the Nez Per- ccs, in his stead, who is not only versed in his own tongue and the Wallawallas, but an English scholar, and a man of sense. As he is so well regarded, his appointment will have a good influence both among whites and Indians. I have kept within limit of the three hundred dollars for interpreters the last year, being under the necessity of paying Wl I <'l TKH TKAR8 IN OUKaON. 22fi or one hundred and eighty dollars for .sixty days' service at one tinoc, and in no instance short of a dollar per day, though I hire as I want, and dismiss at once on closing present busi- )ioss — this being the only way T could hope to give the de- partment satisfaction, in view of the multiplicity of tribes and languages this side the mountains. I have sent for and been hourly expecting my bills from Vancouver, but, from some cause unknown to me, they have not yet reached, and by this reason I am prevented sending at this time my quar- terly report of expenditure — a circumstance I regret, and did not expect ; but, aside from interpreter, travelling expenses, and for office contingencies, it is small, and shall be forwarded at my earliest convenience. The sum allowed for feeding and feasting Indians, as provisions are very high — beef be- ing worth from five to seven dollars per hundred, pork from eight to ten dollars, wheat, corn, barley, and peas, a dollar, and potatoes forty cents — proves hardly sufficient to give satisfaction. The erection of my little office, at the expense of two hundred and twenty-five dollars, I hope and trust, with my actual travelling expenses, will be paid. If this cannot be done consistently, pray call me liomc at once. As I notified you in my report, I cannot sell drafts paya- ble in Washington, and await your order to draft on London for at least one thousand dollars per annum, as, foi the last year, for interpreter and ray travelling expenses, with office contingencies and preronts to Indians, I have been under the necessity of drafting more from Vancouver than I expected — the' Indian excitement and threatened invasion rendering tixis unavoidable. I^espectfully yours, ELIJAH WHITE, Sub-Agent Indian Aff'airs, W. R. M. Hon. J. M. PoBTKR, Secretary of War. 16 . Ul'' 22G TEN YEAIW IN OREQOK. Willamettr, March 18, 1844. Sir — On the evening of the first F(;bruary, the two fol- lowing letters came to me, finding me in the upper settle- ment of the Willamette, distance forty miles : Willamette Falls, January 24, 1844. "Dkar Sir — The undersigned would take this occasion to inform you that there has been of late in this place some few cases of intoxication from the effects of ardent spirits. It is currently reported that it is distilled in this place, and the undersigned have good reason to credit such reports. Whilst, therefore, the undersigned will not trouble you, sir, with a detailed exposition of the facts, they must be permit- ted to express their deliberate conviction that that which has inflicted so much injury upon the morals, the peace, and the happiness of the world, ought not to be permitted to be manufactured in this country under any circumstances. And your attention is respectfully invited to this subject. "We have the honor to be, dear sir, "PETER 11. HATCH, President. "A. F. LOVEJOY, Vice President. " A. F. WALLER, Sccretar}-. "Dr. E. White, Sub-Agem of Indian Affairs for Oregon Tenitory. " Willamette Falls, January 26, 1844. " Dear Sir — I do not know but you have been written to already on the subject which is the cause of no inconsid- erable excitement at this place, viz : — ^The manufacture and use of that most degrading, withering, and damning of all the causes that has ever visited our race since the fall of TXK YEARS IN ORBOOK. 22: 'V* Adam. As much iis we regret it, deplore it, and anathema tize the man who made it, it is nevertheless made, and men, or rather biped brutes, get drunk. Now, we believe if there is any thing that calls your attention in your oflRcial capacity^ or any thing in which you would be most cordially support ed by the good sense and prompt action of the better part of the community, it is the present case. We do not wish to dictate, but hope for the best, begging pardon for intmsions "I am, dear sir, yours truly, W. H. WILSON. ^'R White, Sub-Agent Oregon Territory." ^■■t '!•■'! ■i;t„ *'*f ■I i- ns TEN -JUAllS IN O^T.iit''^, ■till CHAPTER XXI. Kfanufiicltnre of liquors — Breaking up a distillery — Conduct of Cock- •tool^, an Indian — Affray — Killing of Cockstock — Dt^aths from poi- soned arrows — Interview with the Indiana — Prerious frightful affair with Cockstock — Alarming visit of fift-eu In^'ians — Cold Bloodcrf murder-— Presems to Cockstock's widow — Protection required — Let- ter from Mr. Hines — Meeting of the legislative body — Resolution — Unhappy affray — Condact in courts — Resources of the country — Soil of Oregor — Arrival of Rev. Mr. Deamitt, nuns and priests — Port — Export?— Imports — Tour- -Schools — Quiet among the Indians — Note from Mr Littlejohn — Fidelity of tiie Indians — Reasons for pre- venting the gale of liquor — Enactment of the legislative committee of Oregon— An act to provide ways and means. I ACCORDINGLY left at sunrisc on tiie following morning,and' reached the falls at snnset. Without delay, I secured the criminal and his distillery, broke his apparatus, and buried it ill the Willamette river. I put the aggressor under bonds, in the strongest penalty the nature of the case would admit, 4hree hundred dollars — few being v.iriing to be his bondmen even for this amount. Mr. Pettygrove, a merchant ol good habits and character, being accused of keeping and selling wine and brandy, I .searched, and found, rs he had acknowledged, a half gallon of brandy, and part of a barrel of port wine, which has been used and occasionally parted with only for medicinal purpo- .s«3 ; and, to avoid all appearance of partiality, I required the delivery of the brandy and wine on the delivery of a,e en- closed bond, which wa^ most cheerfully and cordially given — .'I i' IHf ' TK'S YEARS IN OREQON, 220 amount one thousand dollars. I searched every suspiciout place thoroughly, aided by the citizens, but found no ardent spirits or wine in the colony. Since this period, no attempt has been made to make, introduce or vend liquors ; and the great majority of the colonists come warmly to ray support in this matter, proffering their aid to keep this bane from our community. On the evening of February 20, I received the following communication, accompanied by corroboratory statements from Mr. Foster, of Oregon city : " Willamette Falls, February 16, i34/. "Sm — I beg leave to inform you that there is an Indian about this place, by the name of ' Cocl o* n iV -ources of un- easiness and discontent between the parties. As I said before, I believe it morally impossible for us to remain at peace in Oregon, for any considerable time, with- out the protection of vigorous civil or military law. For myself, I am most awkwardly situated ; so much so, indeed, that I had seriously anticipated leaving this spring ; but the late successful contest against the introduction of ardent spirits, in connexion with the excitement by reason of the unhappy disaster at the falls of the Willamette, together '^:i ■|«^ 1 U i "h ;i.iv- I...' ■•'•^ '0- .ii^ 10 ;»:■ > ■I >M 238 TXN YEARS IN OREGOK. J ^' with the fact of too many of our people being so extremely excitable on Indian and other affairs reliiting to the peace and interest of the colony and country, I have concluded to remain for the present, in hopes of being soon some way re- lieved. I hope that the draft I have this day drawn in favor of John McLaughlin will be honored, as otherwise I may be thrown at once into the greatest difficulties, having no other h ouse in this country where I can draw such articles as I require for necessary presents to Indians, to defray travelling expenses, etc. I have the honor to remain, with highest respect, your obedient humble servant, E. WHITE, Sub-agent of Indian Affairs. Hon. J. M. Porter, Secretary of War. I 4 V^' 111 '-. TBK TEARS IN ORBGOIT. 289 ■ I i, u CHAPTER XXII. i: >' ' ii' General health, etc. — Winter rains — State of nflairfl between the whites and Indians — Chief of the Fallatine plains — Aggression by the Indi- ans — Military assistance called for — Communication of the chief — Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Californians — Murder of Eli- jah Hedding — Ellis sent to the whites — Salutary language and inter- view — Happy visit with Ellis — Intended revenge of the aggressed party — Invitation to the chiefs — Difficulty at fort Vancouver — Suspension of hostilities — The agents weariness of the unhappy state of affairs — Dissatisfaction with the government — An unpleas- ant affair settled — The colony — Methodist institute — Circulating medium needed — Agent's unpleasant position — Number of Indians — Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas — Answer from Russell and Stewart — Letter from Mr. Burnett — New wagon route — Report of the sub-agent's interpreter — Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Perces — Letter from Mr. Lovcjoy to the secretary of war — A resolution — Note to Hon. W. Medill. Oregon, Willamette Vallt-y, April 4, 1845. Si r — Through the politeness of Governor McLaughlin — the Hudson's Bay express leaving — via. the mountains — for Canada to-morrow — I have again tlie honor and pleasure of addressing you from this remote portion of earth. Since my last, of November, 1844, giving an account of the destruction of thr distillery, the general health, quiet- ness, prosperity, and rapid growth of the colony, together with the good order and deconim which prevailed through- out at the courts, all has moved forward here as satisfacto- rily as could have been expected. Starting too late, and the winter rains setting in earlier '«; 1> 1- ^^i ik I if,9 i'i 240 TE» YEAia IS OREC.O.T. ■i ■';• than usual, subjected the emigrants to incredible sufTering uiid hard>liips, especially from the Dulles of the Columbia down to the Willamette valley; but our early and delight- ful spring is exerting u cheering and most salutary influence upon tln'ir hitherto depressed sj)irits. Thoy have, bee like, been hived up in Oregon city during the winter, and aic now swarming to the entire satisfaction of the first occu- pants of tiie hive ; it not being wide and large enough for >uch an unexpected increase. The last emigration, number- ing about a tliousand, are generally pleased with the coun- try, and are setting about their spring's work with becom- iiig spiiit and fortitude. The Indians of this lower country, whose national honor and dignn,y are laid in the dust, are looking upon the rapid growth and increased strength of the v.hiies with sorrowful countenances and sad heaits. The present state of things between us and them is peculir, critical, unenviable, a' an- gorous, at least so far as peace and property arc coT.^.....*d, For instance in proof — soon after I sent my despatches, the chief of the Fallatine plains, whose orderly conduct and that of his clan did honor to the Nez Perces laws, and the engagement we had mutually entered into, called on me, de- siring my offices in procuring the mending of his gun. This being done, he invited me to come and see liim and his peo- ple ; said all was not right at liLs lodge ; his tribe was divi- ded, and all was not right ; hia influence was waning, and some of his people were becoming very bitter towards the Americans. Observing anxiety and mental reservation, I endeavored to draw out the secret, reminding him of the frequent communicaiions ho had brought me from the Rev. Messrs, Clarke and Griffin, Ix'uriag such satisfactory testi- mony to his previous quiet, orderly, and proper conduct, etc.. J' ' TBM TKARS IH OIIKOON. 241 but all I could learn was, "things arc not right with us, and we arc miserable." The Gamass, their principal depcndancc for food was cut off last season by reason of drought ; and the deer are hunted so much by the late hungry western emigrant rifle- men, that they have become wild, poor, and few in number. The chief left. A few days after, I learned they had killed an ox and ate it, belonging to a neighboring white man. The owner was excited, and applied to one of the executive ; a proclama- tion was issued, the military was called out — if it be lawful to call it such — and ample preparations made to avenge the national insult, and seek redress for this astounding loss. The army collected upon the opposite bank of the river, six miles from the position occupied by the enemy, talked bravely, long and loud, but the river was a little too high to cross that day — appointed another, the river being lower ; none of the warriors appeared ; nor could the executive, simply for the want of a few gallons of alcohol, obtain the necessary assistance to avenge the horrid wrong, and per- form a brilliant military exploit. The chief, in his embar- rassment and distress, came to me as usual for sympathy and succor. My coldness and look of severity — for which heav- en forgive me I — keenly afflicted him. After a deep sigh and painful pause, peculiar to a wounded or injured Indian, he slowly rose, gently smitlag upon his breast, and said, " Dr. White, I am a true man, and carry an honest heart. Do you remember my coming to get my gun mended last fall ? Do you remember my words, that all was not right with our people, and my inviting you to come and see us ? We had just before killed that old ox, and was then eating it." I en- quired, had you anything to do with it personally ? " Yes 10 ■I* ' 5 ':' M'. if I >* ■1: M V I'ir r>:y 242 TKN YEARS ;[N OREO 05". -V :l I s »\^ 1^ il If fevf ( 1 — I helped to kill it, and with my family, took and ate one- half of the annimal. You saw the condition of my gun — our provisions were out ; I and others had hunted for two days — our hunger was great. We held a council, and, ho- ping for success, I promised on condition nothing was caught till the setting of another sun, wc would kill the first animul we met. I travelled far, and wearied myself till evening ; shot of ten, but killed nothing. We met this poor old ox, which our people would scorn to kill or eat except in cases of ex- treme hunger ; my word was passed to my people ; I could not go back from my word ; I helped to kill and butcher the ox, and joined in eating him, and now my peace is gone. I am ashamed to see a -r, hite man's face — they look cold on me and shake the head I cannot bear it ; I cannot live so ; [ come to you to help me, for I am told they want to kill me. I do not want such feelings to exist ; nor do I want to be hunted as a bear or wild beast for slaughter. I stand here a wisher of peace, willing to have you dictate the term-.; but wish to have it remembered that we were distressed with hunger." "Suppose," said I, "the owner should require your rifle and four horses ?" " You stand to judge between us, and I shall abide your decision." "But you have bro- ken your engagement and forfeited confidence, and I fear it cannot be settled, as some think you have killed before." " Doctor White, I am a true man, and lie not. I nor my people, cannot be so accused justly ; this i^: injurious ; none can meet my face and say it." I wrote, through him to the owner, praying, as it was the first oflfence so far as we had the least evidence, and especially in view of our critical situ- ation, and his general good behavior, that he would fully indemnify himself; and then, in view of what I knew of the Wi :% TCN TEARS IN OREGON'. 243 condition of his gun, and the probability that it was induced by hunger, to settle it ; and requested him to assure the chief that he was convinced from my letter and all the cir- cumstances, in connexion with his past good conduct, thnt it must have been brought about by hunger. The advice was rejected, as the laws of the organization now had cognizance of the offence, and he wished to see them faithfully enforced. Public opinion became divided, ard no judicial expression being made, and the poor chief becoming excessively tired of being held by public opinion in durance vile, came to sec me a second time. I wrote again, and learned it was settled by the chief and his people paying his rifle and eight horses. If this be correct — as T fear it is — I abominate the act, and dread its prejudicial influen. 5. Week before last a hungry and mischievous lodge killed a cow. They were pursued by a party of whites, overtaken, and, in attempting to take them the Indians fired upon the whites, killed one horse, and wounded another. The fire was returned, one Indian killed, and a second wounded. Thus ended this affair, which created very little excitement among Avhites or Indians. The most painful circumstance that has occurred lately, transpired last fall at California. The Keyuse, Wallawallas, and some of the chiefs of the Spokans, entered upon the hazardous, but grand and important enterprise of going di rectly through the Indian country to California, with a view of exchanging their beaver, deer, and elk skins, together with their surplus of horses for neat stock. As they had to pa8.s through aH extensive country, inhabited by the savage and warlike Clamets and Chestes, where Smith, Turner, and so many other white parties had been defeated, we are at a Iosh 4 •: itr ; * It - K . t 't. 244 TKN TKAR3 IN OKEG OJT, i .i J IK ,( 4 •■ .' to conclude whether then- valor is more to be commanded than the rashness of their stupendous enterprise to be censu red. They were well mounted ap(^ equipped ; the chiefs clad in English costume, and the resMue attired in dressed sktns, moulded according to their several tastes. The jour- ney of seven or eight hundred miles, after some fighting, watching, and much fatigue, was accomplished, and their numbers not lessened. Taking their own statement, their reception was cordia!, a^d the impression made upon the whites by these distant 4pd half-civilized people, upon an errand so commendable, vas most favorable. The treating and salutations being qver, the trade cwnmenced in good faith, and to mutual sat- isfaction. All moved on well, till, on an excursion to pro- cure elk and deer skins, they met a marauding band of mountain free-booters, fought them, and, being victorious, took a prize of twenty-two hcwrses, all previously stolen from t^e whites. On returning to the settlements, the Spaniards laid claim to the animalb. The chiefs remonstrated, and said, agreea- bly to their customs, the horses were theirs. The Spaniards explained their laws, and showed the animals not to be ven- ted, i. e., bearing a transfei- mark, and told the Indians they must give them to the rightful owners, as all Americans and others did. The Indians seemed grieved, and rather incen- sed ; said in their country six nations of people were on terras ^f amity, and that in case any one of these six nations stole a horse, the tribe was responsible for the safe delivery of that animal to the rightful owner ; but in case the Blackfeet or otlier formidable enemy steal or capture, thp property is apposed lost, without redemption ; and as we have captured these horses at the hazard of our lives, from your long open- iji i? TKM TEARS IN OREGOK. 2i5 ly declared enemies, we tliink they ought in justice to he ours. The Spaniards condescended to offer ten cows fcr the redemption of the horses ; the chief not replying five inore were added ; he still remaining moody, and without replying, the negotiation unhappily broke oflf. A day or two after, an American, seeing his mule among the number captured, told the Indians it was his mule, and have it he would. Will you, said a young chief by the name of Elijah Heading ; and stepping into the lodge, immediately loaded his rifle, came out and observed significantly, go now and take your mvit. The American, much alarmed, remarked, I hope you are not going to kill me. No ! I am going to shoot yonder eagle — perched upon a neighboring oak. Not liking the appearance, the man left without attempting to obtain his mule. A day or two after the Indians left their encainp- ment and walked down to the fort of Captain Stiter to church ; and from the best information we have obtained — all being ex parte — the following appears to be near the truth : After service, Elijah was in. iu d into another apartment, ta- king with him his uncle, a brave and sensible chief of the .igc of fiveand-forty ; while there, in an unarmed and de<"j^hceless condition, they commenced menacing him for things alleg- ed against the river Indians of this upper count 'v, in wnich none of them had any participation ; called the indiscrimi- nately dogs, thieves, rriors of these formi- dable tribes, and march to California at once, and nobly re- venge themselves on the inhabitants by capture and plunder, enrich themselves upon the spoils ; others, not indisposed to the enterprise, wished firs^ to learn how it would be regard- ed here, and whether we would remain neutral in the affair. A third party were for holding us responsible, as Elijah was killed by an American, and the Americans incensed the Spaniards. Ellis reminded me at the same time of the ill success the chiefs met with in trading off their ten dollar drafts for herds, with the emigrants ; which drafts I had sent up by Mr. Lee, my interpreter, to secure peace and safety while the emigrants were passing through their country ; the year before so many having been pillaged and robbed of their effects, through the inattention of the chiefs. Sir, how this affair will end, is difficult to conjecture ; the general impression is, that it will lead to the most disastrous consequences to the Californians themselves, or to the colony 250 TEN YEARS IN •UEOOK. 111^^ of the Willamette valley. My principal fear is, that it will result in so much jealousy, prejudice and disaffection, as to divert th jir minds from the pursuit of knowledge, agriculture, and the means of civilization, which they have been for such a length of time so laudably engaged in obtaining. Should this be the case with these numerous brave, and formidable tribes, the results to them, and to us, would be indeed most calamitous. To prevent such a result I wrote, through Ellis, a long, cordial, and rather sympathising letter to the chiefs of these tribes, assuring them that I should at once write to the governor of California, to captain Suter, and to our great chiefs, respecting this matter. With a view to divert attention, and promote good feeling, I invited all the chiefs to come down in the fall, before the arrival of the em- igrants, in company with Dr. Whitman and Mr. Spalding, and confer with me upon this subject ; at the same time, aa they had been so unfortunate, to bring along their ten dollar drafts, and exchange them with me for a cow and calf, each out of my own herds. I likewise wrote them, that on con- dition they would defer going to C Mfornia till the spring of 1847, and each chief assist me to the amount of two bea- ver skins, to get a good manual labor literary institution es- tablished for the English education of their sons and daugh- ters — a subject they feel the deepest interest in — I would use every measure to get the unhappy affair adjusted ; and, as a token of my regard for them, would, from my private funds, give the chiefs five hundred dollars, to assist them in purchasing young cows in California. I likewise proffered, as they are so e»,ger, for it, to start the English school next fall, by giving them the services of Mr. Lee, my interpreter, for four months, commencing in November next. EUis more than properly appreciated my motives and prof- ■M, VS t TKN YEARS IN ORKGOK. 261 fcrs, aud said he was of the full belief t hat the chiefs would accede to my proposition ; spoke of the importance of the English school, and of the strong and general desire to ob- tain it. He left in high hopes of a continuance of peace and onward prosperity to his people. A few days later brought me into another excitement and difficulty, at Vancouver. Tw<» young men, named in Mc- Laughlin's communication to this government — a copy of which, marked A, together with a reply, accompanied these despatches — crossed the Columbia river, and, unobserved, in the midst of a little thicket something over half a mile from fort Vancouver, felled some; timber — threw up a few logs in the shape of a hut, intending soon to finish it — put up a pa- per upon a contiguous tree, stating that they had commen- ced and intended to establish a claim agreeably with here the note ended. Some one about the establishment, ob- serving the paper and commencement of the hut, reported it to the governor, who sent down at once and had all the timber removed from tlie vicinity ; the tree felled, and that, with the paper likewise, removed. They had hardly cleared the ground when the claimants arrived with a surveyor, and commenced surveying off a section of land, embracing the post first commenced upon. They were enquired of, at the instance of Gov. McLaughlin, as to their object and inten- tions. They at once laid down the chain, dropt all business, and walked up to the fort. Several respectable and influen- tial citizens happened to be present on business, who, with myself, were respectfully invited to hear the discussion. Williamson, a modest and respectable young man, de- meaned himself with propriety ; but Alderman, his asso- ciate, a boisterous, hair-brained young fellow, caused me — as others do — tc blush for American honor. His language 252 TEN TEARS IN ORKOOK. was most severe, and, but for the sake of the country's quiet, could not have been endured ; the governor and Mr. Doug- lass displaying their usual calmness and forbearance. J heard the discussion for two hours ; and, becoming satisfied that no possible good could grow out of ft, remarked that with the cheerful consent of both parties I would give my sense of the matter. Each readily consenting, I thought best to come up on the blind side of Alderman ; treated his measures with less severi- ty, and himself with more consideration and respect, than he anticipated ; then spoke of Greenough's construction of the treaty between the two governments — which I happened to have with me — of the immense district of country depend- ant upon this establishment for supplies in beef, pork, etc., and as evidence that they had no more land contiguous than was necessary for their purposes, spoke of the number of cattle and other stock that had died from starvation during the last winter ; dwelt upon the importance of union and good feeling among all the whites, surrounded as we were by savages, in our weak and defenceless conditon, and of the propriety of establishing correct precedents in our im- settled state, regarding land claims ; and, without advising particularly either party, took my seat. Williamson and Alderman soon manifested a desire for a private interview, which resulted in a suspension of hostil- ties for the present, and probably an abandonment of the claim. Now, my dear sir, suffer me to write a few things con- cerning this country, which seem to me strongly to demand the speedy attention of the members of our government. Take fifty men from the colony, of the most intelligence, firmness, and prudence, and anarchy and confusion follow. TIN TEARS IN OREO 05. 263 Suffer a free introduction of ardent spirits, and desolation, horror, dismay, and bloodshed ensue. Never were a people more illy prepared for Bclf-government, nor moie unfavora- bly circumstanced to succeed — aside from the single fact of the absence of intoxicating drinks. Sir, too great a portion of our population comes from the western suburds of civilization, for one moment'H safety to us in our present condition. I know not but I have as much patience as most men, but am heartily tired of this state of things. Nor would I run the risk again, by land and water, from whites and savages, for the safety and quietness of the colony and country, for all the wealth of earth. I have not hhrunk from toil, danger, nor hardships, and though alone- handed and unsustained, black-balled and traduced, aston- ishing to say, my measures have as yet succeeded. I think of the past with a clear conscience, yet at present, at peace as we are, I look upon our critical condition with an anxious, aching heart, feeling that the members of our government err exceedingly towards their citizens in Oregon. As I have so often said of this lower country, with its beauty, excellence of soil, and mildness of climate, it might be rendered the paradise of earth ; but, sir, every thing is jeoparded by the tardiness of our government measures ; not only the poor, injured natives, but the whites generally, have become wearied to impatience in waiting for an expres- sion from our government, and disaffection, with a want of confidence, is taking the place of previous warm feeling and strong attachment. I regret this exceedingly, but feel it my duty to speak out in truth and distinctness on this important point. I have said and done what I could to keep up confidence and hope ; but already demagogues are haranguing in favor of inde- I 254 TEN YEARS IN OREGOIT. i'Vi. 1 . . ■A''-.' pendcncc, and using the most disparaging language regard- ing the measures of our government as a reason for action. These arc but the beginnings, and, though I am ghid to say such sentiments do not generally obtain, yet they are more fa\'orably listened to this year than last ; their natural results and practical tendency you Avill readily perceive. Your annual report of 1843 reached me only a few days since, having been broken open on the way, then put into the hands of Indians, and forwarded to me through that channel. And while I have to regret never having received any thing from your pen, be assured I am not insensible to the honor done me, in speaking as you did of my report, through yours of 1843 to the secretary of war. I feel any kind expression from home the more sensibly, from the tor- rent of opposition I have been forced to meet and contend with here ; but I am happy to observe that my influence is increasing, and my measures are being better understood and appreciated. Influence here is most important ; I felt this strikingly a few weeks since. Three among the most correct and sensi- ble men of the colony formed a co-partnership to enter largely upon the brewery business. They had already taken some steps ; and as the business promised to be lucrative, the prob- abilities were against me in attempting to dissuade them from their purpose. I visited them, labored calmly, honest- ly, and faithfully, and felt the difference of dealing or talk- ing with men of sense and principle, over many with whom I have to do in Oregon. The interview broke up most agreeably, not an unpleasant sentence having passed ; the gentlemen engaging to give me their decision very soon. This was communicated to me two days after, in a delicate and handsome manner, which was TKJf TEARS IN OIIEGON. ar.r bo entirely to my wislics, the business being aUogetlier aban- doned. This was most gratifying to mc, as from such a quarter should beer be introduced, it would be impossible for us to prevent the introduction of stronger drink into the col- ony and country, which, of all others, is most illy prepared to receive it. The colony, now numbering about four thousand, is in a most flourishing state, and I am doubtful if any like number arc more pleased or better contented in our wide domain. The schools of the country during the last winter have been well sustained ; I have contributed to each, as was necessa- ry, from ten to fifteen dollars, to pay rents, etc., and to en- courage them forward in their laudable struggle to educate their rising families. I attended the examination of the Methodist institute school a few weeks since, and was most agreeably impressed regarding the institution. The pleasant deportment and improved manners of the young ladies and gentlemen of the school, saying nothing of their astonishing advancement in the different dcpartment-s of literature, was a cause of the highest gratification. I have nowhere attended an examination, taking all things into the account, more creditable to the principal or institution. I have called for a report, but am sorry it has not yei como to hand. The branches taught i re rhetoric, grammar, geography, arity'"*ietic, read'ng, writing, and spelling. The most en- lightened and best disposed are using their influence to strengthen the organization, rnd perfect the laws of the col- ony. Many are favorable to vhe adoption of a constitution, by calling a convention for that purpose the present season. This being the most enlightened sense, and meeting with lit- .Svljii 256 TEN TEARS IN OREQOIT. tie opposition, I am of the opinion that it will preva'V Should this be effected, the constitution, accompanied with a petition, will probably be forwarded by a delegate from this country to Washington city the coming winter. As the friends to the constitution generally wWh best to the coun- try, and desire to have every thing so conducted as not to embarrass, but meet with acceptance at home, I am solicited to be said delegate, and represent the wants of Oregon. A circulating medium is greatly needed ; however, the enter- prise and onward march of this people cannot easily be re- pressed. Through the auspices of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany almost every man, requesting and needing it, is helped to suflBcient means to commence on his section of land ; and, certainly, by far the greater number give evidence of well- placed confidence. The prairies are dotted over with hou- ses, and the fruitful fields are spreading out widely all around us. Moral and religious influence, I regret to say, is wa- ning ; yet it is gratifying to observe an increasing intereso upon the subject of schools and education ; and I am happy to say we have now eleven schools this side of the moim- tains, most of them small, to be sure, but they are exerting a salutary and beneficial influence. Pardon the length and want of interest of my report. Did not duty hold me here, or had I funds appropriated to travel abroad to explore this delightful region of surround- ing country, from what I learn of vague reports, I have lit- tle doubt but much interesting, curious and important infor- mation might be collected. But here I am, doomed to sit, watch, and sometimes almost fight for peace between whites and Indians — the question of right and wrong becoming more and more complicated continually ; while here, allow me to say, the settling these difficulties necessarily costs me h*- ' '\ TEN YEARS IN OREOOK. 25Y r^y not a little. I believe most fully, in making a settlement with an Indian or tribe, to liave it a happy, earnest and hearty one ; and, in order to affect this, they require a present as a seal. And, sir, this is my principal means of usefulness or influenc over these poor, and, in many instances, injured na- tives. Their seeming confidence and regard makes one the more patient and cheerful in doing for them ; nor can I com- plain, as so many east of the mountains have been obliged to, of violated faith on the part of the Indians. From all I can learn, much of which little reliance is to be placed, there appears to be about twenty-seven thousand Indians in the territory, allowing it to extend to 54° 40' north latitude. Mr. Lee's — my interpreter — report accompanying this, you will observe. I would have accompanied him but for the season of the year, and the prevalence of the dysen- tery, which is sweeping off the natives of this lower coun- try. This gave rise to Dr. Long's bill, which, I hope, will be honored, as it was a work of humanity as well as policy. I directed it, as I could not possibly attend to tliose and these at the same time, there being about forty miles be- tween us. I hope. Providence permitting, to have the pleasure of seeing you and the other gentlemen of the departments, at Washington, in a fcv^ weeks, or months at longest, after this reaches, and of explainin-^ my accoimts and reasons for ex- penditures. I had not expected to draft on the department thin spring ; but there was no other means of settling with Gov. McLaughlin, for the want of a circulating medium through which to operate. Enclosed is a letter from Peter H. Burnett, Esq., which 17 268 TEN YEARS IS OREOOy. I proposed forwarding in my last despatches, but received too late for transmission. With great respect, I am, dear sir, your most humble and obedient servant, ELIJAH WHITE, Sub-agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M. t«N TEARS IN OREGON. 269 CHAPTER XXIII. Thrilling elory — A slave slain and buried with his master — Strange custom — Inducements to the doctor to take the journey home — En- deavors to discover a new route through the Cascade mountaine — Sealing a mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine view — Masses of rocks — Mt. Hood — Disheartened — Return to (he base of the moun- tain — Molalah Indians — Disappointment — Wheat — Petrified ash — Advantages for settling — Deer and elk — Wild cat — New determina- tion-— Fine country — Mounds — Mt. Spencer — Ascent laborioufi — Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous view — Descent, During the year 1844, Mr, Perkins arrived in the colony, bringing with him a boy whom he had released from tho dead-house at Wiscopum. He was a bright looking little fellow, intelligent and active, an object of universal interest and attraction, and the account of his late dismal nocturnal imprisonment, created mingled feelings of pity, horror, and disgust. Of his earliest history they could learn nothing, except that, at five or six years of age, he was capturei from his own tribe, the Chestcs, by the Clamuts. It seems that the men of the tribe were hunting, and the women ta- king their offspring with them, went out into the woods and prairies to pick berries, whnn their enemies found and killed a portion of them, taking the boy away into slavery. He was afterwards sold to the chief cf the Wascopums, to be the companion of his own son, about the same age, and soon endeared himself in a thousand childish ways to the whole family. The boys were much attached ; whatever were the amusements of the young chief, his fellow participated. He 200 TKS TEARS IS OREGOW. h^^'z .?. I received a part of his feathers, shells, and little presents Some time after this, Mr. Perkins arrived among tliem, and a great reformation commenced in this as well as adjacent tribes. The sachem's whole tribe were converted, much to his chagrin and anger. He absolutely resisted whatever in- fluence of the spirit which he might have felt, and reproach- ed his tribe in bitter terms for their recreancy. He some- times, with flashing eye and angry voice, commanded them to abandon their old-womanish notions ; and at others, with the winning tones, and touching words, which the Indian can so well adopt, attempted to persuade them to return to th3 religion of their noble ancestors. But the work was no arrested till — as it was computed — nearly a thousand of these benighted beings were converted. The missiwiaries were veiy solicitous about the rebellious chief, mournmg his obstinacy, and feaiing that some awful calamity would fall upon him, and Mr. Perkins with untiring zeal, labored to place before him the consequences which might follow if he persevered. But he turned a deaf ear, saying, " he feared not the power, nor cared for the vengeance of the white man's God." The event too truly showed that the predictions were verified, for two years had hardly rolled away, before disease and death made frightful havoc in his family. His brother died ; his wife and children one after another wasted and vanished from his sight, wringing his proud heart with anguish. At length his darling, only son was stricken down. Every means known to tiieir jugglery and superstition were employed, but it soon bect:me apparent that he was follow- ing his mother and sisters. The afilicted father then has- tened to the man of God for help, begging anxiously, ab- jectly, for restoratives for his poor boy. Medicine Avas given him, and with flying steps, and panting chest, he sped to his r TEX YKAnS IN OREGON. 261 r gloomy, solitary home. He rushed to the mat, and forcing open the lips of the sufferer, placed the medicine upon the already palsied tongue. It was unavailing ; the child could not swallow ; the pure gem was stolen from the frail casket, the young spirit had fled. I cannot describe the stern sire's awful grief, hours and daya of wordless, noiseless anguish, for no man mourns as doos the Indian, who has no certain knowledge of again meetmg the beloved one. Especially for a son does the warrior lament, and a warrior was this father ; in him he had hoped to see the brave of his younger days, loved and admired by the tribe, his praises chaunted in the war song by the men, and sung in love notes by the maidens. At length by meaning looks and gestures rather than words, it was found that the chief had determined that the deceased boy's friend, who had been his companion in hunting the rabit, snaring the pheasant, and fishing in the streams, was to be his companion to the spirit land ; his son should not be deprived of his associate in the strange world to which he had gone ; that associate should perish by the hand of his father, and be conveyed with him to the dead- house. This receptacle was built on a long black rock in the centre of the Columbia river, around which, being so near the falls, the current was amazingly rapid. It was thirty feet in length, and perhaps half that in breadth, completely enclosed and sodded, except at one end where was a narrow aperture just sufficient to carry a corpse through. The coun- cil overruled, and little George, instead of being slain was conveyed, living, to the dead-house about sunset. The dead were piled on each side, leaving a narrow aisle between, and on one of these was placed the deceased boy, and bound tightly till the purple, quivering flesh puffed above the strong bark cords ; that he might die very soon, the living was pla- 2«2 TKN TEAKS IN OREO OK. K ■■ ced by his side, his face to his, till the very lips met, and ex- tended along limb to limb, and foot to foot, and nestled down iato his couch of rottenness, to impede his breathing as far as possible, and smother his cries. And so they left him, unheeding his piteous prayers, although his shiieks and Kcreams were so aoronizinfj that a tear stood in the eve of even his master, and he closed his ears that he might shut out these fearful sounds. They left the child surrounded >Yith heaps of hideous, festering dead ; the cold, clammy reptile crawling over his quaking flesh, as it toiled to and fro in its feast of loathsomeness, choking with the hot, fulsome, putrid vapors of his ghostly bed. That night the intelli- gence reached Mr. and Mrs. Perkins, and till morning they were obliged to endure the agony, for it was nothing else, of imagining the sufferings of the victim, for it would have been worse than presumption to attempt his rescue, for the night was intensely dark, and in the day time the rock was extremely difficult of access. At the dawn of day, Mrs. Perkins looking almost like a corpse, they left their home and reached the rock, some three miles distant, before sun- rise. Mr. Perkins forced open the tomb, and after w 'ting till the steaming, death-fumes had partially escaped, they entered and searched for the boy. They found him stretch- ed on the ground, for in his struggles he had kicked himself off the pile of dead, and now lay perfectly insensible and al- most breathless. They conveyed him to the open air, which with all their anxious efforts, for a long time failed to revive him. He at last gasped convulsively, but his senses for some time refused to comi unicate to his bewildered brain, the reality. Imagining he was yet in that horrid cell, he was mad with frantic terror. He str.iined his blood-shot eyes in their sockets, threw about his poor freed limbs, 1 T£K V£AR3 IK ORSOON. 263 acrearaed, and raved of the sights he had seen, and voices of the dead lie liad licard whispering in his cars, and their cold, bony hands griping his throat ; in short, every fright- ful thing, the fancy of a child is so fruitful in conjuring. His hearers could not avoid shuddering. But when he became conscious of his situation, it was affecting to witness his transports. He clasped his mutilated arms around Mrs, P.'s neck, kissed her passionately, and caressed her face and hair with his swollen hands, and called her by the most en- dearing names, and her teai-s fell upon his burning brow, as she held him in her arms, his head pressed against her cheek. This seems to contradict the received assertion of some, that the Indian is created without gratitude, but if this boy's feelings were not those of gratitude, it was something of a still more holv and elevated nature. When Dr. White saw him, three and even six months after, his limbs yet showed the traces of his torture, for where the ligatures had been drawn the tightest the wounds were yet raw and unhealed, causing considerable suffering. Mr. Shortess, a member of the legislature, and a respec- table gentleman, on his way to visit the Willamette settle- ment, some sixty miles below fort Vancouver, hearing a very singular wailing on shore, put in. He found considerable of an encampment of Indians, He was received in perfect silence, some sitting and others standing about, seeming scarcely to notice the intruder except by a simple raising of their dark eyes. At length seeing one of them, a man, in a state of extraordinary restlessness, though uttering nf.« sound, he ventured to break the stillness by inquiring th^' cause, A chief informed him that the man was a slave, his master had lately died, and that he was doomed to death, and to be buried with him. Shortess was startled, and used y-V. '^u-:r'i 264 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. ^^ ■' I ^v- every measure, and persuasion in his power, to save the poor wretch from his terrible destiny, but in vain, for he was either answered by a moody silence, or a few brief words of dis- approval, and was at last obliged, reluctantly, to leave, or witness the fearful ceremony, receiving no encouragement whatever that it was possible to avert the fate of the poor slave. Were such revolting customs done away among the tribes, the whites would lose half the disgust and terror with which they now regard many of them. Among the many strange, and sometimes, brutal practi- ces, is one among the north-west coast savages, of the great man of the tribe biting the arms of the chief by way of favor. This occurs once a year, during an annual festival, at Avhich their religious ceremonies are commingled. Near the close, the lodges of the warriors being contiguous to the high chiefs, at a given signal he suddenly emerges from his dom- icil, abruptly running to the lodge of his first favorite, rudely tears away a portion of the roof, and plunges through it instead of entering at the door. The inmate then quickly throws up his skin robe, and undergoes the biting process., the inflictor beginning by inserting his teeth at the wrist, and proceeding upward to the shoulder, in proportion to the love he bears the owner of the tortured limb. This is car- ried on from lodge to lodge of each chief, as he is beloved, receiving these marks of aflfection, some only half way to the elbow, others to the elbow itself, and shoulder. The flesh is bitten severely, fairly chewed to the bone, so that it peels and drops off, but this is disregarded, the most badly mas- ticated being very proud and exhibiting the limb to his fel- lows in great triumph. The Crows, the most daring and enterprising tribe of the raoimtains, have a custom more singular, if possible than the > TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 265 II above. At the lo'="5 of a friend, they bite off one joint of a finger. This is sometimes continued till the members are nearly, and often quite demolished. The doctor was now solicited to return to the United States by the legislative body of Oregon, which was sitting at the commencement of Mr. Polk's presidential campaign, as the most fitting person to represent the wants and condi- tion of the people. He also bore the first memorial and pe- tition of such a body, of the territory — though several had been sent out by the citizens — praying the government to extend jurisdiction over the country. " He started about the 12th of July, with a party of eight men, determined to find a road through the Cascade moun- tains to the states, which should be more advantageous than the old one, to future immigrants. Joseph Gale, an old mountaineer, Battens Du Guerre, Joseph Charles Saxton, Orus Brown, Moses Horries and John Edmunds, with a couple others, composed the little force. They launched out on the plains in an eastern direction, till they reached the foot of the mountains. The morning after their first encampment, they penetrated into an opening from which issued a stream, which they traced some eighteen miles ; after which they began in a winding direction, to scale the rugged sides of the mountain. As they progressed, they found the ascent more rapid, and with the exception of a few stinted straw- berry blossoms, though it was the middle of July, vegega- tion scanty, and the way much impeded by rocks, and fallen timber, till at length it was with great difficulty that their horses could get forward, even by leading. Soon there were patches of st.ow, and a half hour more laborious travelling brought them to perpetual snows, and spread out before their 266 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. ^ gaze, as upon a vast slieet, the lovely valley of the Willa- mette. On every hand were piled huge .nasses of rocks, without vegetation sufTicicnt to feed a bird. For miles they could see nothing but apparent rocks, and before them Mt. Hood tow- ering proudly iome thousand feet above them. This was too appaUing to encounter, and in a most disheartened mood, they turned to retrace th .Ii steps to the Willamette valley ; 80 much labor lost. They hastened back to the gap, and turning to the left, ■•he doctor determined to follow the base of the mountain, watching every indication, that they might make a new trial. They had gone but a short distance, when they fell in with a lodge of Molallah Indians, among wliom they found an old elk hunter. After long, patient interview. Doctor White found that there was no possibility of crossing this stupendous range, short of fifteen days* farther travel to the southward, where, the hunter said, he was informed by the Clamet Indians, that there was a path over the summits o' the mountains, generally covered with snow. Discouraging as this was, the inquirer decided to investigate for himself, and they accordingly continued as before, along the base of the mountains as far as practicable, through, what it is but just to say, seemed one of nature's gardens. In various pla- ces, where had probably been Indian encampments, they found wheat growing in little patches, from four to five feet high, and admirably filled. On the route also were diflfer- ent clover and grasses, in great luxuriance. Near their road, upon an elevation of at least a hundred feet above the level of the sea, and quite away from any water, they found an ash stump, solidly petrified, and digging into the earth sev- eral feet, the roots Avere in the same condition. This I will TSN TBARS IN ORKOOV. 267 ) leave for those more curious and scientific tlifin mys«'lf to account for. They found many places, advantageous for settling, combining water, prairie, timber and excellence of soil. Farther south, the plains were more extensive, but ap- parently, not less fertile and inviting, and all conceded that here might be kept large herds, without fear of exhausting the resources for feeding. Being now at considerable distance from the settlements, elk and deer abounded on the adjoining hills, often passing them in droves of from five to ten, aud sometimes a dozen. Here they enjoyed some sport in chasing a wildcat, whioli sprang out from the high grass, to a thicket, when they mounted their horses, surrounded, and succeeded in kill- ing it. Finding the assertion of their Indian friend true, and that the crossing of the Cascade mountains in the manner they wished, impracticable, the doctor determined not to return to the Willamette without accomplishing something valuable. He therefore decided to find their way across the upper branches of the river and valley, and seeking the mountains bordering on the Pacific, if possible, to discover an eligible opening through to the ocean, as there had long been a de- sire on the part of the inhabitants, to find another way to the coast than by the falls of the Willamette and the Columbia river. After passing the main branches without difficulty, through a country well grassed and wooded, combining about an equal proportion of timber and prairie, they emerged into a large plain, interspersed here and there with an oak orchard grove, and gazed upon scenery altogether novel and peculiar. On every hand were scattered mounds, something resembling haystacks, from one to five hundred feet in height. This 1Q8 TEN YEARS IN OUEGOK. was probiibly occasioned by convulsions of the earth, as the country elsewhere showed evidence of previous volcanic ac- tion. This was demonstrated no longer ago than 1843, in the nipture of Mt, St. Ilellens, as will be read in the agent's first report. One of these mounds shot up, far above its fellows, not less tlu n seventeen hundred or eighteen hundred feet in height. At a glance, they discovered that from the summit might be gained a superb view of the surrounding country, and the doctor and his interpreter, Du Guerre, re- solved, if possible, to reach it. They set out on horseback, and taking a winding course through the oak openings, suc- ceeded with little difficulty, for a thousand feet, when their path became more steep and rugged, and they found them- selves under the necessity of tying their horses, and finishing the attempt on foot. On ascending three hundred feet high- er, the doctor found his professed half-caste companion more of an Indian than a white man, judging from his dexterity, for he seemed to climb the steeps with the greatest ease and skill, while with himself it was a hard labor and struggle. However, both were soon obliged to scramble, like four-foot- ed animals, catching at every twig and branch, to aid their passage to the top, which they reached in about half an hour. Here they found a few tiny strawberry vines, just beginning to blossom, and among the rocks evergreen shrub- bery of corresponding growth. On this rocky point, Du Guerre scared up a mountain black tailed deer, with a beautiful little fawn, and recreant, as most of his race, to his companion's no small vexation, Du Guerre levelled his rifle, and broke one of its legs above the knee. The poor creature, with the broken limb dang- ling, went scampering off down the broken steeps, followed by its little, bleating dependance. TIN TEARS IN OREOOX. 2«a % Tlicy now took a deliyhtful survey of the general features of the landscape before them. On one hand Avaa the vast chain of the Cascade mountains, Mt. Hood looming in soli- tar}' grandeur far above its fellows ; on the other was the Umpqua mountains, and a little farther on, the coast ridge. Between these lay the whole magnificent panorama of the Willamette valley, with its ribbon streams, and carpet-like verdure. The day was fine, and such was the clearness of the atmosphere that the scene was very distinct, grand and imposing. In enthusiastic admiration of the noble site, the doctor named the elevation Mt. Spencer, in compliment to John C. Spencer, the then secretary of war, and j)luckc '. some choice evergreens, intending to present tlum to the daughters of this gentleman ; but the Pawnees despoiled him of the treasure. They now began the descent, certainly on his part with more dread than he commenced the ascent, upon which the half-breed looked at him with a significant smile upon his tawny features. But in a few hours they joined their com- panions in safety, when the interpreter departed from his usual taciturnity, and displayed considerable eloquence in aescribing the stupendous view they had 1;ad from Mt. Spen- cer. One of the party remarked, that the name was a very just one, for the mount towered above its compeers, as nobly Hs did Mr. Spencer among liis cotemporaries. 270 TEN YEARS IN OREO ON. CHAPTER XXIV. Indian encampment — Prairies and band of Indians — Stream — Separa- tion — Spur of the mountains— Horses left — Indian village — Sinj[".!ar destitution — Embarking on the river — Startling accident — Swift travelling — Sterile tract — Tide water — Encamp — Indian village — Craw fish — Singular piece of meat — Indian explanation — Th^ ocean — Strip of land — Boy — Brown's claim — Railroad advantages —Indi- an toil — Good fire — In siglitof friends — Breakfast — Astart--A prer- ent — Wolves — Beautiful country — Arrival at •he colony — Petition — Start again for the states — Party separate — Meeting at the Dalles — Indian encampment — Wedding here to-day — Bride and bridegroom — Dresses — Whimsical story— Disappointment in obtaining the bride's beautiful dress — Murderous affair — Interesting account — Deserter — Another threatened — John Day river — Saucy Indians — Wallawallss — A halt — Visiters and presents — Agriculture and its cfil-cts — Hot Spring — Alann — Keyuses and Nez Perces — Alarming report — Guard — Emigration — Letters — St. Joseph's company — 'Mr. Fisher's eager- ness for news — A meal — Odd reason for lagging behind — Chance for carrying a letter — Roguish girls — Fort Hall — Runaway liorse. TiiEY now struck a trail which led to a considerable Indian encampment, whose inhabitants, judging from their utter ignorance of our language, had never before seen a white person. The doctor enquired of them as well he was able, and had his hopes increased of this being a feasible route to the Pacific. They had not progressed more than sixteen or eighteen miles, when they came upon a beautiful prairie, and a large band of Indians. There also they found a large stream, flowing directly to the ocean, and alwunding in quantities of the clioicest fish. Dr. Wliitc obtained a pilot TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 271 and left most of the company, and all the baggage, and with three others, resolved to go light, and expeditiously as pos- sible to the coast. They soon reached the second spur of the mountain, which was so difficult, and wearisome to climb, that the doctor, overcome by heat and fatigue, offered a dol- lar and a half for a pint of water, which the poor guide ac- cepted, and hastened down, but returned with only a half pint for the live. They toiled on through some places bo steep, that each rider dismounted, and seizing his steed by the tail, Avas obliged to 11. jg him severely to make him ad- vance, Avhich he could then only do, by a few jumps, and then falling upon his kness to rest. At the top they were obliged to leave the horses, without a purtide of grass to subsist upon, and make their journey down on foot, and were happy at finding themselves at the river side. Here they suddenly arrived at an Indian vilLige, the inhab- itants of which, though there were only five of them, so un- accuston:c'J were they to the whites, fled like affrighted deer, and all the peaceable demonstrations of their visitors could not induce them to return, so they were obliged to pass the night in fearful apprehensions of a surprise. However, there was no alarm, and in the morning they succeeded in persua- ding one of them to come near, and through him hired a ca- noe and couple of men to convey them down the river. One of these men wore a single covering, consisting of a string of beads about his neck, and the rest of the villagers seemed in a like destitute condition, for which the white men were unable to account, as the hills abounded with game, and the waters with fish. They had proceeded but a short distance in their frail biirk, when they discovered the river to be very rapid ; they were tKK)n in a succession of rapids and cascades, and shooting (or .'.1.-. '• 272 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. lit.- US' 11] .11 ward with great velocity, when the bow of the canoe struck a large rock, and instantly split two-thirds its length. The channel was very winding, and all that saved the crew from instant death, was, that the steersman, with true Indian dex- terity, clenched his paddle to a rock, and Avith a shrill scream and significant motion of the head, warned them to spring upon the rock, and never did obsequious servants obey with greater alacrity. For four or five hours they anxiously pa- ced the rock, while the boatmen returned for another canoe. The one which they brought was still more slender tl\an the other, and having a strange river to navigate, the doctor had some difficulty in persuading Brown to go farther, he decla- ring that the fates were against them, as regarded both the states and Pacific. However, they were again seated, and travelled swiftly through ten or twelve miles of mountainous region, of the most forbidding character, a fit haunt for elk, wolves and bears, and men as savage as they. As they neared the sea, the current moderated in strcgth, mountains lessened in height, and nature put on a more cheer- ful garb, and they were soon in tide water, where a vessel of common draught could easily float. Within a few miles of their destination they bivouacked for the night;, which passed drearily and hungrily, for they had left their food with their horses, and had eaten nothing for twenty-four hours, except a few roasted fish two inches in length. The next morning they discovered a large village, and hazardous as it appeared, hunger overcome prudence, and the doctor ordered a halt. They found the Indians friendly, and procured a quantity of craw fish, which in the native mode of cooking, was partly roasted, and partly steam- ed. This being the first clean food they had had, they lost no time in breaking the shells, and, at first thought, it de- TKN TEARS IN OREGON. 273 sel id for had (/ for les ia llage, [ence, Idians In tlie :eam- they lit de- licious, but perhaps from its richness, without any other food, it s< »on lost its agreeable flavor. Presenting their entertainers with a few trifles, they departed, followed by them to the fchore, and regarded with curious scrutiny. They had been afloat but a few moments when, to their no umall alarm, they saw several canoes following them with great rapidity. As they neared them, an old chief in the forward canoe, held up a piece of meat, dried and smoked, about eighteen inches long, and two inches square, a perfect mass of fatness, excepting a remarkably thick rind, which he wished to exchange for some of their commodities. The article was entiiely new to the whites, and they knew not what to call it. It was at first the opinion that it was bear's meat, but one declared that from no portion of the animal could a piece of this description be obtained. When they became more familiar with the bearer, they learned it was from the seal, and from his singularly happy motions, and signs, it would appear that some six or eight canoes had encountered an enormous s(;al, and had a rare frolic in secu- ring it. lie became very eloquent, and enthusiastic in de- scribing, the breaking of spears and upsetting of canoes, and taking his relation for truth, he was a very prominent actor in the important achievement. While the old man wsis elab- orating upon this topic, they came in full view of the ocesin, and his story instantly lost all its interest. They entered a beautiful little bay, capable of securely sheltering a large number of ships. Between this and the sea lay a wide strip of land, with light, sandy soil, and a con- siderable quantity of grass, peculiar to such soils, and they found the huts of sixty or seventy natives dotted about on this flat. The country on the coast was well timbered, hilly but not mountainous, and they judged it capable of cultiva- 18 ^«: -'■ 274 TKN TEARS IN OREGON. "'.■b, tion. On questioning the natives carefully relative to the depth of til 3 entrance to the bay from the sea, the doctor supposed it to be about eleven feet. Satisfied with attaining their object, they started for the Willamette, followed to the river bank by the Indians, giving them to understand they had never before seen a pale face in this place. As they passed up the bay, Brown laid claim to a certain spot, where he said he had no doubt there would some day be an immense city, as there were good facilities for cutting a railroad from Willamette to the coast, and thereby a way provided to convey materials to build such a city. In one day they reached the point where they had left their hor- ses, and never did sinful children of Adam toil harder, or more dexterously than did the poor Indians with their poles and paddles, in taking them up the river. Night arrived, and our friends were supperless in the midst of a cold rain storm. They managed to set fire to an old lir stub, whi'jh burned much better thirty feet above than where they w'sh- ed it to. The blankets being wet, and cinders continually falling aroimd them, the hours passed most uncomforably, and the morning found them Aveary and irritable, and the irritiibility was not lessci'.jd b}'' the consideration that they had yet six miles t j travel before breakfasting. When they reached the top v.f the mountain, eight miles distant from the encampment where they had left their friends, they dis- charged their pieces to notify them of their return. They passed cheerily down the valley, and the good fellows know- ing, as they had anticipated they were on short allowance had coffee prepared, and an ample repast. The meal, much as they recpired it, afforded the hungry men scarcely mc.o pleasure, than did the report of their successful enterprise '!,,■ S I J TEN YEARS IK ORF.GON. 275 to their companions, who, in their enthusiasm, greatly mag- nified the importance of tlie expedition. They raised camp, and had proceeded but a few miles, when they were overtaken by an Indian hunter, Avith '-'iiom the party had spent most of tlie time of the doctor's ab- sence, bearing a newly slaughtered elk, urging it upoa them, and Avhat was more singular and acceptable, without com- pensation. One of the men accomplished with'iim a trade of ritles, and they again moved forward. Four hours later found them once more on the banks of the Wil%',nette, noth- ing unm.ual occurring except a harmless ""^'^ iter with ft flock of large, mountain wolvc^i, jittracted by the scent of the meat. Three and a half days more travel through a country equally beautiful with the other side of the river, and they were in the vicinity of the colony, and the doctor had the pleasure of telling their adventures to his friend. Gen. Gillihan, who, with the people generally, was much pleased with the relation. It was this expedition which the legislature took action upon, praying congress to reward the agent for his arduous labors. Late in August Dr. White determined to take the usual route to the United States, and obtaining Harris for pilot, and Du Guerre, with three or four others, he started on the 15th, Harris and Sax ton crossing the Cascade mountains with the horses, to meet him at the Dalles. At Vancouver he was apprised of the danger of going with so small a party across such an extensive Indian country. But he determined to persevere, and went on to the Dalles, where the men and horses had already safely arrived. However, I havt^ omit- ted noticing two rather interesting incidents of his voyage thither. A few miles above the Cascades, the party disem- barked to take their dinner, when they discovered a large t. ■■^ •1." SY6 TKN YEARS IN OREGON. t ,» f . kr- '■ [ Mk W"'*'-' ■< ■ M ■''V, Indian encampment, wearing an air of unusual cheerfulness. The doctor felt some curiosity to know what it meant, and liaving ordered the salmon and pott; toes on to boil, he ap- proached it, and saw the lodge was thrown open wide, and every species of Indian finery displayed in the best light. The spot they had selected for their camp was a lovely one, being an oak orchard grove, upon the side of a pleasant, grassy eminence, the rolling waters of the Columbia on one side, and noble mountains on the other. While he was gazing anxiously about, out stepped an In- dian, saying to the interpreter, "Wedding here to-day.'* On hearing this, the doctor had no difficulty in distinguish- ing the parties, for m the centre of the principal lodge, sat rather a pretty girl of eighteen, clothed in a robe of tanned and dressed elk skin, beautifully embroidered with beads, and delicately fringed ; and by her side reclined a stately looking copper colored youth, partly in European garb, both, notwithstanding the presence of the strangers, evidently in ft very complacent mood. This was the first Indran bridal Dr. White had ever attended, and he was extremely desirous of obtaining the handsome dress of the bride, believing it would be of great interest to the friends at home. AVhile fee was cogitating how to negotiate this delicate affair. Chap- man strodo up, saying, " What now ? Things look rather different from what they did two years ago, when I was first along here ; not an Indian to be seen here, nor any thing else but a few old, worn out cows of the emigration, with a miserable boy to drive them. I was nearly starved to death, in the storm, and he had nothing to eat, nor any thing to eat it in, so doing the very best I could, I slipped off my shoe '.nd milked in it, and drank out of it, too, and was glad to get off 80." This odd tale, told in his peculiar ludicrou* TKN YEARS IN ORKGON. 211 Lty\e, set his auditor laughin. I . t ■. , . ¥■.: & 1 !i 280 TBN TBARS IN OREOOM. them. The same day at noon they reiichcd the Dcshutes river, where Brown hkewise, in great impatience, dechircd that he would return, and Dr. White's old friend, Hatteua Du Guerre, who had never before failed him, coincided with the intended deserter, saying it would be impossible to reach the states with so small a party. Their leader concealed hLs chagrin, and told them to do as they chose, but as long as the road lay open before him, he .should go on. This en- ded the matter, they followed on, and that evening reached the John Day river, named after a famous, yet unfortunate old Kentucky hunter, who, from hardships encountered in this region, became insane, died, and was buried, on its banka. Here they met a considerable body of Indians, whose saucy, boisterous behavior, excessively annoyed Brown. It was a tribe who had been habitually troublesome to emigra- ting parties. Dr. White was a little in the rear, but came up in time to check the excitement, and prevent disturbance. He coolly said to them, " you see my party is too small to set a guard over our horses ; if any of you want my prop- erty, go take it ; but I expect to find it all in its proper place, in the morning." To the surprise of some of the party, this confidence wns not misplaced, though poor Brown slept lit- tle, and was full of evil prophecies. On the 2Gth they met the Wallawalla Indians, on their grounds near fort Willawalla, and were particularly struck with the noble appearance of the young brave who came out to meet them. The neatness of their plantations, scattered along the skiits of the woods, was very creditable to their skill and industry. Long strings of corn were nicely plaited and hung outside their cabins, to dry, and every thing gave indications of thrift and improvement. In a few moments an old chief came, and with his hat under his arm, very cour- I m TKN THARfl IN OUEQON. 281 teously saluted the strangers, cordially inviting them to his lodge!, and could hardly bo prevailed upcu to accept th(nr apologies and allow them to proceed. Tlu^y moved two miles farther and halted, when they were visted by many of the tribe, bringing with them presents of the various pro- ductions of their farms. The white men spent several houri with tlu!m, list(Miing with interest to descriptions of their agricultural pursuits, and their beneficial efiects, and ascri- bing great credit to Dr. Whitman and Mr. Spalding, who firbt introduced among them this change from a savage to a civilized state. They left them about three o'clock, P. M., and camped for the night in the midst of the Blue moun- tains. The next day they made a long and cheerful march, and camped on a considerable stream near the Grand Round. The following day, passing a large tree, at the foot of which, had manifestly been built many fires, Saxton, laugh- ing, remarked, " there is where, last fall, I had my first quar- rel, all the way from the United States to this country, being the place where I burnt up the last mess of beans, kettle and all, in consequence of falling asleep, worn down by fatigue. Our mistress kicked up a row, and such an one as none of us are likely soon to forget." They next entered the Grand Round, and traversed most of its length, Dr. W. more than ever impressed with its love- liness and fertility. They that morning bathed in the hot spring. A few miles from the round, they came in full view of a large encampment, which they supposed tenanted by Snake Indians, near wheie, the full before, two of the tribe were killed by rockles.. whites, thereby rendering it deci- dc'lly hostile They experienced much uneasiness, and made preparations to advance cautiously as possible ; but^ w v«^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^/ .V^ /. 'A 1.0 I.I 1.25 I- 1^ 2.0 U 11.6 V] v5 /. y -^ Photographic Sdences Corporation L1>^ fV ^^ ^\ iv ^-\ '^J^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^ A "^^ '^ 7i ^ r^ T ■ r 1 ' I 11 ,i 282 T£N TEARS IN ORSaOK. on nearing it, found a party of Keyuscs and Nez Perces. They gave a most unfavorable account of a band of Snakes, just ahead, so much so, that Dr. White deemed it advisa- ble to hire three of the warriors to escort them through the Snake country. On the night of the 30th his brave Nez Perces kept watch, but nothing occurred to alarm them. The next day, they made at least forty miles, and con- sidering themselves beyond danger from the Snakes, lay by for the Sabbath, and found it emphatically a day of rest. On Monday, about noon, to their almost extravagant joy, they met a company of eight hundred emigrants, headed by Barlow, Knighton nnd McDonald. They were very cheer- ful, and represented the dangers of the route as far less than they had anticipat3d ; indeed, they said the principal annoy- ance arose from the dust of so many wagons, numbering eighty-seven. It was to the doctor as exciting a meet- ing as had been that with the exploring squadron, at Hono- lulu, each party bringing news from the country they had left. After this they met several expeditions, one of which, near fort Boise, brought the doctor several valuable letters ; one from Mrs. White, from whom he had not heard in fifteen months, and one from each of his esteemed friends, Benja- min Joy and Gen. Min'er, of Lansing. Near the falls of the Snake river, they encountered the St. Joseph's company, and their first impressions of it were any thing but favorable. They were camped on a sandy plain, and the first person who presented himself, was a tall, meager, one eyed man,running along the bank of the river with a fishpolc in his hand, corresponding with his own dimen- sions. The next was not a one eyed individual, but possessed a black eye, and was a suspicious looking subject ; and then TKK TBARS IN OREGON. 283 a tall, commanding looking man, walking liasiily about, appa- rently in anxious search after some object. By this time the thoughts and roflectio/iS of our party, respecting the compa- ny, were sufficiently melancholy. The last named gentle- man, suddenly observing them, abruptly changed his course, and advancing to the doctor, held out his hand, saying, " my name is Fisher," upon which he extended his, and " mine is White." "Surely, not Dr. White, of Oregon?" "The same, sir." " Why, sir, I know you well by report, I feel myself well acquainted with you ; ccme to the camp, sir ; come to the camp ;" and nothing loth he did go to the camp, where he found a company of intelligent New England peo- ple, who had formerly emigrated to Iowa, aud were now on their way to Oregon. They were more eager for news than any he had before met, and also for reading matter, for they had devoured every thing in their possession, even to their old almanacs. He was literally forced to give them an Ore- gon lecture, so he harangued to them, some sitting upon wagon tongues, some on the ground, and others bringing out their old fashioned efistern chairs. While this was going forward, some of the ladies prepa- red for the party, under Mr. Fisher's tent, a delicious repast of choice bread, crackers, tea, dried beef, butter, and maple molasses. While partaking of these, a large number stood round the travellers, asking questions as eagerly as they ate. On enquiring why they were so far behind the general par- ty, one of the ladies replied, " why, I guess it is because we lie by on the Sabbath." A smile passed round the cir- cle, and an elderly maiden remarked, " Oh, sir, that is not the only reason ; our company are very philosophical ; they are not disposed to let little drawbacks trouble them ; neither 284 TEK YEAn8 IN ORKOOK. li- .»•! do they -wish to wear themselves out by extraordinary exer- tions, such as rising too early in the morning, and dashing away over the plains, like eager seekers after filthy lucre." A laugh followed, and the doctor's enquiries were at an end. After dinner, strolling about, he passed a group of young ladies busily chattering, and one of them, rather blushingly, asked, " Sir, do you carry letters to the United States ?" " Yes, certainly, I have a pack animal with me especially for that purpose." There was a titter among her com- panions, and one spoke, ** there, Lucy, you see the gentle- man is willing to caiTy it. I told you so." Another, " Yes, to be sure. And now I reckon you would like to have ns get a pen and paper for you, wouldn't you?" With a half- provoked air she bade them " hush," and left them. He watched her proceedings, and soon saw her seated upon the houns of a wagon, her paper spread upon her lap, her cheek pressed upon her hand, lost to outward objects, and indi- Ung her sweetest matter. When she brought, and half bashfully, presented the letter, requesting the doctor to send it to its address, he replied, laughingly, " you may be certain, J will do so ; if all the rest fail, this shall go safe- ly." She retreated amid the suppressed giggle of her roguish mates. He saw the letter was directed to a gen- tleman. The party were much pleased with Mr. Fisher, and one of them presented him a fine horse, which he gratefully ac- cepted, and they separated. After traversing the sand plains to within half a mile of fort Hall, Dr. White and his confipanions indulged in a thorough washing, in which their clothes came in for a TEN YKARa in ORSOOHT. 285 . f. *'r share, and all being iu a fresher condition, presented them- selves at the fort. They remained with Mr. Grant sev. eral days, the reason of which was, that the horse bear ing the mails, and other valuables, took fright, and ran away, and about three days passed before they recovered him. ■ • H.: ■'*■■■■ yn ■>i- { BC i ^^V^NI 280 TEN YEARS IN OUKGOK. f ii :s ■iA«r-c ill J '1 1 i " H ;i! i' • . 1 ■ I P! I CHAPTER XXV. Showers — Soda Springe — Dr. Burke — Pleasant interview — Green river — Great change — New route — Sterile and forbidding country — Sam- mit level — Uncomfortable night — Contrast — Divide — " Home, sweet home" — A trail— Sabbath travelling — Weather — Dreary pas5 — Ani- mals — Bear — Sweetwater valley— Independence rock — Solitary walk — Halt — Ravine — Snow— Red bluff— Camp on the Platte — Buffalo — Needless fears — Humbug — Three grizzly bears — Signs of Indiana — Nondescript — Indian and family — Signs of danger — Herd of hor- ses — Attempt to escape observation — Failure — An old mnn — Kind reception — Handsome offer — An American — Feasting — Smoking — Reasonable request — Encampment — Two Frenchmen — Good meal — Warm spring — Fort Laranny — Mr. Tappan — Fligibilily for a mil- itary post. The first night after leaving fort Hall they had a shower of rain, the only one betvi^een the Dalles of tlie Columbia and the United States, a period of ninety days. Their sec- ond encampraent from this place was at the soda spring. Every thing bore much the same aspect, as four years pre- viously, excepting the unpleasant change caused by emigrants having cut away so much timber, lessening the wild beauty, and grateful shade of a spot, destined, ere long, to become a rendezvous for the world. On the 27th, they met Dr. Burke, who was engaged in collecting botanical and mineralogical specimens for the English government. He related many anecdotes of his travels in Africa, and the interview was both pleasing and instructive. They had the pleasure of his company to a din- E i TEH TKARS IN OREGON. 287 ncr, which Brown and Chapman exerted their skill to ren- der palatable, presenting him with broad, butter, and pota- toes, which he had not tasted for months. They reached Green river the 9th of October. Here a great change had taken place ; the numerous expeditions having so destroyed the timber as to leave the doctor in doubt whether ft really was Green river. It was also quite different from what it had been when he first visited it. But their doubts were resolved by finding an old piece of wagon- board, with a name written upon it, in pencil, "we ar- rived at this point, Green river, 1844." They now attempted a route, to them, entirely new, be- tween Green river and the Rocky Mountains. It was an arid and forbidding region, uttoly destitute of vegetation, and of every living thing, the lizard excepted. They pushed on for forty miles, without a drop of water, or discovering a single article fit for food ; at the end of which they stopped and took a slight lunch, feeling more uncomfortable for their jaded horses, than pleasure in their own hasty allowance. As they approached the summit level between Green and Sandy rivers, the weather became very chilly ; the winds, blowing from the snowy tops of the mountains, were search- ing and severe. As evening came on, the party became drowsy from cold and weariness, and were hardly able to reach a suitable place for rest, which, however, they did reach between ten and eleven o'clock at night. As th<^y were in a dangerous part of the country, they dared not build a fire, but spread their blankets upon the wet ground, and threw themselves upon them, reflecting how different was their prospect for spending the night, from those of travellers in the states, contrasting their uncomfortable, and .'I ■ '■'■J'.' ,: ■ *•■! ,<.'rv TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 28) and rest, coming within three rods of them. The night was clear, though severe for the Yth of October. The next day they passed Hell Gate, so called for being the place where eleven whites were cut off at once by the Indians. Through this dismal pass, a quarter of a mile in length, cut through a mountain of rock, they travelled in jrreat fear lest they should be way-laid. In the morning they awoke much re- freshed, and carcfull)' searched, but found no trace of sava- ges, breakfasted, and went on, meeting numerous sage- fowls, horses, antelopes and buffaloes, of which they killed one. That night they arrived at Salarsetus lake, where they were visited by a huge grizzly bear, but did not pursue him, though strongly tempted to do so. They reached Sweetwater pass about half past nine, and soon after. Independence rock. Here the doctor crept stealthily along a mile in advance, fearing a repetition of the scene he had formerly witnessed. He was startled by the lightest motion of a leaf, in the shim- mering light of the setting moon. Every thing was as still as death, except a slight stir, now and then, occasioned by a gentle zephyr, giving an apparent quiet life and motion to every shadowed twig and weed. The scene was solemnity itself. They camped between twelve and one o'clock, and the next day travelled thirty miles. On the 8th, after an early breakfast, they mounted, the wind at their backs, which, clear as it was, gradually in- creased, till, at eleven o'clock, it was like a blow at sea, ma- king the sand so troublesome that they were driven into har- bor at twelve. There they dined on buffalo tongue, tender- lines and tea, and at two o'clock, as the wind had a little abated, again started, and travelled on till they reached the bottom of a deep ravine, where a few willows partially shiel- ded them from the snow and driving blasts, through the 19 u fii ■(|V ::y i't:. Hi I :| ' >P' ■ 1 *1 • ^00 TEN TEARS IN OREfiO!r. night. The next day was cold and stormy, the snow falling an inch in depth on the tahle while thoy wore dining. That afternoon the travellers came in sight of the Red bluff of the Black hills, of a color between scarlet and chocolate, and that evening camped on the Platte. In the night. Brown awoke his companions, to listen to the hordes of buffaloes crossing the stream in a precipitate and hurried manner. Chapman quickly, but gravely, admon- ished them to " be very still, as there were Indians just be- low." Having some doubts of these night visions, his leader asked his reasons for such a statement, but in vain ; he would or could give none. In the morning he started out to fetch up the horses, and soon came back, saying, in a hurried and excited manner : " There, I told you there were Indians down there !" "Well, Chapman, what now ? Have you seen any?" " No ; but I heard the men gambling, and making medi- cines, children talking, dogs barking, and all sorts of noi- ses." " Chapman, did you hear the dogs bark ?" " I tell you I heard all sorts of noises, and if you don't believe me, go yourself, and you Avill soon be satisfied." " That I will do, certainly. Brown, come ; go along." They went as far as he did, and heard nothing but the winds sighing through the trees, in the valley, the flitting of ravens, and the pecking of birds on the old, dry timber. Far down the river, they saw the buffaloes and antelopes quietly grazing, and all nature, in these lonely recesses, ap- pearing awful from her very repose ; the storm being over, and the ground covered with snow to three inches in depth. Dr. White decided to cross the river, and go ahead, Chap- i, i. TEN YEARS IN OKEGON. 201 >» Chap- man's dreams notwithstanding, and liis protestations of hear- ing marvelous sounds. But Brown, on tJic subject of Indi- ans, always cowardly, was inclined to believe that the vis- ions might be Providential ^varnings, and the doctor directed him to go to the point of an adjoining bluff, and satisfy him- self that lis fears were groundless. He had been gone but a short time, when he came cantering back at full speed, de- claring that he had " seen a man and horse, and heard chil- dren ;" that he " knew inhere were human beings there; was afraid they had seen him, but hoped not." Though habitu- ally sufficiently credulous, the doctor doubted much, but turned aside through a depression in the mountain, went twelve miles to make six, and found, as he had suspected, that it was all a humbug. Impression men, and timid be- lievers in dreams, have no business on this road with small parties. . < , The second night following this, the doctor, followed by his companions, wound his way, by the dim light of a cloud- ed moon, down the Platte, to a place of safety. Late in the '■ evening, he struck through some timber, both standing and fallen, in a low, lonely vale, where he came suddenly upon three grizzly bears, busily devouring the carcase of a buffa- lo. They retreated two jumps, by which time the intruder, discovering his position, came to a halt to await the arrival of his army in the rear. They no sooner recovered from their first surprise, than with horrid growls they advanced to- wards him, and he made a precipitate retreat, when, fortu- nately, the party came up. Brown and Chapman dismounted and advanced within thirty paces of the enemy. One of the creatures, probably the dam, gave a dreadful yell, vindicative of fear, and anger, and made a terrible bound towards thena, but such was the noise made by the scampering]^of the hor- ' • II x:> 292 TKN YBAIia IN OREOOIV. MS, thiiL she was confused, and fled, hotly pursued by Chap- man, bawUng as loud as he could, " Brown, Brown — here ihey arc ! Come quick — we'll have 'em." But bruin and her cubs escaped into a thf^ikot, whither Chapman could hardly be lestraincd from following thorn. In the morning, they found the animals had passed where they slept, and the wounded bled so profusely, that they all imagined they were sure of them, especially, as on following the trail back to the place of firing, they found an immense quantity of blood. They traced the track three miles, (o a dense thicket, where they left them, as their retreat was unsafe to penstrate. They measured a foot mark, and found it twelve inches in length by seven in breadth. They travelled twenty-six miles, and camped on a branch of the Platte, in the Black hills, and Brown shot a young deer, on which they feasted lustily. Sabbath morning tliey lay by till twelve o'clock, and then moved on till sunset, amid fresh signs of Indians. They now stopped an hour or two on another branch of the Platte, and then rode till twelve o'clock, through a storm of wind, hail and snow. They passed over a long divide, the moun- tain high, making, that day, thirty miles. They found a thicket, in which they emcamped, which served not a little to break off the piercing winds. The doctor lay down on his uncomfortable bed, and thought of home endearments. He rested well, and felt better in the morning, though it was cold and snowy. At a brisk fire they roasted a badger, if the nondescript the doctor killed the day before, may be 80 called. That morning the party met a Sioux, and his family, who were very friendly, though, when he learned the smallness of their number, he warned them of great dan- [ i-^wtfc I; f ' TKM YEAKS IN OUEQON. 298 ger by rapping on liia head, and drawing hh knife across his tliroat, and significantly pointing far ahead. They left him, and in half an hour saw before thorn an immense herd of horses, which they knew must have owners, and those not whites, and they then understood the fearful signs made by their Sioux friend. They attempted to escape observation by cutting across a district of country, and afterwards inter- secting the main road. Passing around the point of a hill, they reached the old road, and, to their chagrin, in a few motnents came in full view qf two hundred and fifty Sioux lodges, not more than five hundred yards distant. To avoid them was now impossible, and wit v >ut a moment's hesitan- cy, the doctor wheeled his horse in that direction, and or- dered the party to follow with a rapid step. What tho re- ception and doom awaiting them, he knew not. They soon saw a brave, grave-lookipg old man, riding out to meet them, and a multitude of children swarming to gaze upon the white strangers. Dr. White alighted, and putting on the best na- tured smile possible, shook hands with him. He seemed pleased, and enquired by signs " where they came from, and whence they were bound ?" Having no interpreter, the doc- tor did as well as he could by signs, and showing him a book sealed with much wax, and also a number of extravagantly large letters, which he told him he was carrying to the great father, at Washington. By this time, a host had collected, and the chief motioned the doctor to accompany him to the village, where he conducted him to the lodge of a younger, tliough more influential chief, dressed in English costume, and professing to be a friend to the whites. In a few mo- ments, a Frenchman appeared, who understood their lan- guage sufficiently to inform the guests that the Indians wished them to accept the soldier's lodge, or lodge of hon- v^'H.-; 294 TUN YEARS IN OREGOK. H \i ■\- \' -i or, which should be vacated for their use, and spend the night with tliem. It was large and convenient, and tired as they were, the invitation was very tempting, but the doctor declined, and asked an interview with an American, said to be in the camp. In the meantime, while he was talking with his host. Sax- ton come in, in much agitation, and requested him to step out, as the savages had already plundered one of the pack hor- ses, and Chapman was " in a dreadful stew." The doctor coolly beckoned the chief to accompany him to the spot, where he found the Indians much embarrassed and uncom- fortable. They had supposed the visitors would stay, and had therefore taken off the pack and deposited it in the lodge assigned them. By this time, Mr. Gillipin, the gentleman whom Dr. W. had begged to see, and who proved to be a member of the American fur company, arrived. They had met four years previous, at fort Laramy, and ho was again in the country on a trading excursion. He inforaaed him that a'large party of the Sioux and Shiars were out on purpose to kill every white, and Snake, they could find, as seven of their tribe had been slain, as they thought, by them. It was probably this band, whose trail I have mentioned, the party saw one day after dinner. He said that if they had es- pied them, they certainly would have despatched every one. He rendered himself very agreeable and serviceable, and telling the natives wlio Dr. White was, they were invited from lodge to lodge, to feast with them. They then brought out their long, wooden-stemmed, stone-bowled pipes, which they smoked peacefully and cheerfully. The doctor tried hard to get off his awkward, Dutch pipe, which was cer- tainly no less beautiful than theirs, but to no avail, and was not a little embarrassed. Chapman and Saxton humorously TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 295 remarked, ihat they thought the difficulty might be occa- sioned by its long travels over the hot plains, causing it to be^ come contracted, thereby leaving an occasional crevice. In a delicate manner their entertainers intimated their wish for a present from our government, as an equivalent, in part, for the wood consumed, and game destroyed, by the large immigrating parties, passing through their country, in which, believing the wish reasonable. Dr. White encouraged them. The white men then left them, and camped pleasantly two miles distant, and slept without alarm. The next day, they met a village, moving, dogs as well as horses, harnessed, drawing long poles and goods, seemingly at home in the bu- siness. They also met Smoke, an important Sioux chief. They rested for the night in the camp of two Frenchmen, in the service of the American fur company, one of them having resided in the country seventeen years, and was a jolly, roistering fellow. He had been there so long, that he said he actually dreaded the appearance of a white woman, or' any thing like refinement. Their carts were heavily laden with dried buffalo tongue, and other meats, of which they presented the Americans, with real, back-woods generosity. Of them, they made a rich meal, while listening to the fel- low's yarns of the Rocky Mountains, the enormous elk he had killed, and his encounters with the grizzly bear. His story-telling propensity was probably increased by the quan- tity of tea he drank, of which he declared he had not before tasted in several years, and which acted upon him in much the same manner that stimulous would on another per- son. Twelve miles from this, at the foot of the Black hills, they reached the v/arra spring, where, as they would soon arrive at fort Laramy, they performed their ablutions, as at fort %>■' ■•i -r ;■■*■ ■'.- i v' >/' > i ill ' + '■ 296 TBN TEAKS IN OREQOX. W M Hall. They were hospitably received at Laramy by Pappin.; *.he governor, and the doctor was favorably impressed with the diflFerent manner in which he conducted the trading es- tablishment, from most others they had visted. He waa fully convinced that this would be the best point at which to fix a military post for the protection of i migrants, being the most dangerous part of the route between the United States and Willamette. Eight miles below this, there was a small fort, under ths direction of Mr. Daniel Finch, where our travellers were obliged to trade their wearied horses for fresh ones. i: TKK TEARS IN OREGON. 29 1 CHAPTER XXVI. '. ( :'■••■ ■ Chapman's return for the minute bo«»k — Hard time — A move — Return — White men — The Platte — Art nature — Platte crane — Polecat — Ash creek — Thompson — A present — Wolves — Ivill a buffalo — A robbery — Woodless plalte, valley, etc. — Bread — History of a lump of sugar — Singular circumstance — Sabbath morning — Weather — Buf- falr — Birds — Antelope, etc, — Length of the buifnlo district — Larg« herd — Express — Warning ol danger — A sign of danger — Pawnees — Unpleasant interruption — Pack-horse frightened — Troublesome Indian — Departure — Firing — Another interruption — Number of Indi- anti — Madness of attempting to contend — Brown and Saxton — Coal laken — A blow — Hard usage — A protector — A ride on horse-back — Saxton — Little demons — A council — Delicate feast — Council nore moderate — Another confiscation — " Bad people behind" — Not to be gulled — Saxton's visitor — Package of monuscripig — Preparation to Stan — Kind old squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant surprise — Advanta- geous trade proposed — Kind interference — Forced trade — Final coo- elusion — Dr. Satterly. TiiEY started on the 18th, when the doctor, having left his minute book, about noon, Chapraiin returned for it on foot, and at one the next morning overtook them, in the midst of a wild storm of hail and snow. His toes wer« frost-bitten, and he had denned up three times, like a bear, when, not exactly pleased with his quarters, he at length came on. Nor had the party fared much better, having re- treated six miles in the course of the night, by reason of falling in with a camp, which they suspected to be the Paw- nees, to a deep gully, where they tied their horses together, and waited the rising of the moon ; after which they retra- fv'.s vrt 298 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. ced their steps to meet Chapman. Reaching a sui.able place for encampment, they raised a signal to inform him of their whereabouts, and they lay down, fireless, amid cold and snow. The next was the morning of the Sabbath, and still storm- ing ; but they managed to kindle a fire, comforting them- selves with the consideration, that the poor horses, at least, had good picking. At twelve they were again off, and found to their relief, that the neighbors they had so much feared, were a white man and his associates, on their way with goods, to the interior, to trade for buffalo robes. They reached the Platte before twilight, passing through scenery most remarkable, nature having turned her works into a semblance of art. On every side were domes, cas- tles, spires, churches, etc., etc. BuflFalo still abounded. On the 20th they arrived again at the Chimney, at twelve baited on the river, and at dusk had made twenty -five miles. The following day they travelled only eighteen miles, but the next, thirty ; after which they stopped on the Platte, and cooked a skunk, Avhich Chapman had caught, and a polecat, which another had killed, and which Chapman and Saxton pronounced very nice eating. After several days' march, without incident, excepting a run away of the horses, they arrived at the mouth of Ash creek, the point of turning off for the south Platte, where they spent a night with Wm. P. Thopmson, a Ken- tucky hunter, in the employ of a fur company. lie feasted them on the nicest treat of buffalo meat which they had yet found. lie was stopping here by order, to guard goods, and was soon to leave for Laramy, where he hunted in the sav- age wilds for the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars per annum, although an educated, high-minded young man, of TIN TEARS IN OREGON. 299 honorable and wealthy parentage. lie presented Dr. White with a fine ham of venison and a set of deer's horns, with nine branches, accompanied with the scalp and ears, for the patent office at Washington. They now found the wolves more numerous than they had ever before seen, and especially troubleso.ne at night. On the 26th they met, and counted, twenty-one in a single drove, very large — the real buffalo wolves — which, when inclined, run down the fastest cows, hamstring them, and at will, slaughter whole herds. At dusk, the men killed a large buffiilo, and cut from him some of the choicest portions, to the amount of eighty pounds, intending in the morning to get the tongue, etc. To their amazement, the morning brought disappointment, for nothing but the disjointed skeleton remained, notwithstand- ing the carcase could not have weighed less than two thou- sand pounds, some of the party rating it as high as a ton and a half. ' They travelled on that day thirty miles, down the wood- less Platte, or Plate, as it is justly named, from its great width and shallow waters. It is seldom more than three feet in depth, and at this time unusually low, averaging not more than an inch, and the bottom a perfect bed of quicksand. The valley and table land of this country, is well grassed, and lies handsomely, and if timbered and less sandy, would be very valuable. On the morning of the 26th, being Sabbath, they had bread for breakfast, the first they had eaten for twenty days. D**** brought forward about four ounces of maple sugar. By his mischievous, significant looks, the others were led to enquire where he obtained it, supposing he had m XK AC- ' »'■-.■ - ^ m li 300 TEN TEARS IN ORSeON. »,i> procured it from the emigrants, and he seemed as well pleas- ed to inform them as they to know. " Well," said he, " I will give its history. It was made in 1831, and presented to wife and self, at our marriage, by my mother-in-law. It has twice travelled round Cape Horn, through the Pacific to Oregon ; as often over the Rocky Mountiiins, and spent a sufficient time in the Wallamette val- ley to gain a residence there. Though somewhat dwindled away by its advanced age, it is very sweet, but not as sweet as the recollection of the old lady's kindnesses and many virtues." About ten o'clock. Brown came in with his rifle, express- ing his surprise at something which had just occurred, and remarking that if there was such a thing as a special Provi- dence manifested towards any company, it must be this. " "All the game we have had, has Ijenshot down rii^htin the road, and every endeavor to the contrary has provea abortive, and just now in my attempt to kill a wolf, a circum- stance happened which beats the d — 1. I loaded my rifle, and passing a wolf, levelled it at him. The cap burst, the piece went off*, but the bullet passed half way out of the barrel, and there it stays. I hauled out my pistol and snap- ped it ; the cap burst on the tube, and that did not go off." Chapman advised him to lay aside his gun, and let Sab- bath hunting alone for the future. But Brown replied : " Do you suppose God would give me a gun, and then not allow me to use it? Away with your superstition." And here followed some of his soundest arguments, iu justification of Sabbath breaking. Monday, the weather was very fine, and buflialoes aboun- ded, together with the antelope, and birds began to increase in number and variety. The white crane, of about the size, ti, * TEN TRARS IN OREGON. 301 ill pleas- as made iage, by pe Horn, e Rocky letto val- Iwindled as sweet id raany express- rod, and il Provi- this. ' 1 right in IS provea I circum- my rifle, ip burst, ut of the nd snap- ko off." let Sab- ied : then not lents, in aboun- increase the size, and with the habits of the sandhill crane, greatly interested the doctor, and he endeavored to obtain a specimen, but fail- ed. Tlie females, like the males, have the wing tipped with black, but unlike them, both above and below the body, the ends of the feathers are edged with a beautiful golden tinge. Eight hundred miles of the road had been passed, and the travellers hardly been out of sight of buffaloes. Tho buffalo section commenced at Green river, and ended where they left the Platte, Their habits, like the whales and sav- age tribes, are migratory, remaining for some time in one place, and then suddenly disappearing entirely. The aver- age weight of the male is two thousand pounds, the female something less. Their run, and grunt, resemble that of the hog, but their bellowing is peculiar, resembling nothing living. They are rapidly vanishing from the country, and must con- tinue to do so, while they are increasingly sought after bj the whites and Indians ; stimulated so to do by the white man's finery. The skins only of the females arc used for robes, and the cows, too, arc generally sl.iughtcred, as their meet is more tender ; a fat one being delicious eating. Out of the vast numbers they saw, not more than one in five were cows, and not more than one in ten of these had calves. So much for their destruction by the whites, Indians, and still worse, the wolves, which destroy so many of their young. They travelled twenty miles on the 28th, and camped in the midst of timber, on the Platte, finding hardly water enough to have supplied a common grist-mill. Only twenty- five miles from this there was a much greater quantity run- ning on the surface. This day there were thousands of buffaloes Avithin range of their vision — a greater number than they had before seen ::I • '1 ^ 302 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. :f. ^HH' t! Iri !■ ^ at one time, and were remarkably quiet, lying about like do- mestic animals, and frolicking sportively. On the 29th they met aa express of two men from St. Louis to Fort Laramy, who told them that they Avould prob- ably meet the Pawnees before they left the IMatte ; and they would surely be robbed, if not murdered. On the 31st, at nearly noon, the doctor was riding for- ward to look out, when he saw a smoke shooting up sudden- ly, in the distance, but so dim that he could hardly decide that it was more than a passing vapor. But it was repeated at different points of the horizon, and he was convinced it was a sign of danger. They stopped, arranged their packs, and Avent on a few miles, when they discovered, two or three miles ahead, a horse, apparently struggling to disen- gage himself from a fastening, which he finally succeeded in doing, and shot off in an opposite direction. They con- sidered this a signal, and conclusive that they were in the neiirhborhood of the Pawnees, who were also aware of their approach. They examined their arms, and determined to avoid them by travelling off the road till night. They had ridden but about three miles, when they saw three savages advancing, immediately in front. They went on without appearing to notice them, when others, to the number of fif- teen, stole up behind them. The doctor turned, and made signs to them to go back ; that he was in haste, and could not stop ; but they continued to come on. Seeing this he stopped, and told Saxton to open a pack, and give them some tobacco, the last they had. He had hardly done so, when one of the horses took fright, and ran with great violence. He and Chapman pursued it, and with great dif- ficulty finally caught it, and were once more ready to move on. But one of the savages, who had been very trouble- *"l TEN YEARS IX OREGON. 303 some and saucy, stepped up to Chapman and demanded some powder, which being refused, he pointed his gun at his head. Fearing the consequences, the doctor ordered C. to comply with the demand, and the Indian left them. "Wliile, however, he had been talking, six or seven came round the doctor and grasped his horse's head. He beck- oned IJrown to him, and while he pointed hio six barrel re- volver at them, told him to do the same, at the same time motioning them to be off. As their visitors 'departed, they fired at them, seeming to aim particularly at Brown. When they were nearly out of sight, the men filled their pow- der horns, and pouches, but had hardly started forward again, when, to their chagrin, they saw a couple of sav- ages advancing towards them from the direction of the village, another from the hills, and another and then another from different points, till they were entirely surrounded, and still others arriving on their fleet horses, -well armed with war clubs, tomahawks, bows and arrows, and whooping fearfully. Dr. W. cautioned the men to refrain from firing, as it would be madness to contend with so many times their own number. There was a great uproar ^md confusion, while they robbed each of their captives of some article, such as a blanket, etc. They obliged Saxton, with his pack horse, laden with many valuable papers, to go ahead, and Brown to follow, with a warrior at his bridle. Poor Dr. White brought up the rear. Refusing to allow the pillage of his mails, one rushed furiously at him, and seizing a skirt of his coat, tore it rudely from his shoulder ; another came up and stripped the remnant from his back, whib p third uncere- moniously took possession of his vest. WhJle engaged in this melee, a warrior came suddenly upon him, and gave him a stunning rap on the temple, while two of his fellows ■^1 804 TKN YEARS IN ORK( ON. k ■I I if .ill ' •I -SI encli struck a blow on the top and back of his head. Each of the young racn then struggU^d for a hke privikige, and tlie senses of the victim were fast leaving him, wlien lie saw n huge brave rushing through the crowd with uplifted battle axe, which he supposed would soon be buried in his biain. But instead of this, while he was reeling to the earth, he sprang forward and threw his arms around him, at the same time cmbruciug him with his knees, and shouting loudij for help. The next instant two chiefs came to the rescue, hauling, and thrusting aside the young men, and stood over the prostrate man, assisting to protect him from further out- rage. With this support, the doctor's first protector picked him up, as though he had been an infant, and pressing through the mob, placed liis burthen upon a horse, and him- self behind him, and in this way entered the village. At this moment lie woke to consciousness, and looking about liim, saw none of his party, and supposed they were all slain, when, five minutes afterwards, he discovered Saxton, be- ing conducted in like manner with himself. As they arri- ved to within a few yards of the huts, they were met by numerous cliildren, brandishing their little weapons, and pointing their mimic arrows at the prisoners, and dancing about with the fury of young fiends. They were placed in Beperate lodges, and allowed no intercourse, while a long and stormy council was held. They took a recess about ten o'clock, and the white men were then permitted to see one another, while a feast was being prepared for them. It was composed of very good materials, in the form of a stew, which their cooks probably thought would please them, as they were taken from their own provision bags, tea, coffee, dried meat, and pounded corn, and although well sweetened with sugar, they could taste the peculiar flavor of each. As .1 M ■ TEN YEARS IN OnEGON. 305 a mcdicjil man, Dr. W. nii^Hit approve of compounds, but he tliought he should liavc preferred tlic ingredients of tliis seperate, especially the tea and cofTee. The feast being ended, the captors collected their eflects, distribu- ting the most valuable among themselves, and again went into council. This time their gestures were not so furious, and their voices less boisterous, than before. There was a sensible modifi- cation. At twelve the body again arose, the prisoners were revisited, and their possessions again lessened ; after which they assured them there was a party coming up, of very bad people, and that they would certainly scalp them ; advising them to depart immediately, although it was now mid- night. To this, notwithstanding they were subsisting on their hospitality, the doctor put a decided veto, believing that their wish was to get them off to the plains, and then set the young men loose upon them. They urged, and he be- came more firm, till, seeing his inflexibiUty, they were not a little embarrassed. About this time, Saxton was visited by an old chief, bear- ing a large package of MSS., evidently taken from a white man, but would not suffer him to read any thing except the wrapper, which was a kind of paper used in the war depart- ment, and directed to Ton-ga-wan, chief of the Otto nation. The Indian opened the bundle on the opposite side of the lodge, and took out an United States passport, as it appear- ed by the light of the fire, at that distance ; a large paper having ten or twelve seals upon it, and each with a name attached ; a paper resembling a deed, and a French pass- port. He then folded them all together, after pointing to- the coat of arms on each, and putting them into the envel- 20 ..-^'•• . il ; m ! ; It 1^ 1 . f 1 ^ 1 tM 300 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. opc, laid them under his thigh, and giving a contemptuous laugh, left the lodge. The chiefs went into a third council, which was remarka- bly still, as they were probably becoming sleepy, allowing our little party to meet once more, and hitcrchange their feelings relative to their prospect of reaching the United States, which they now considered rather dubious, as they were robbed of provisions, clothing, and, as far as they knew, every thing else. From this time, for two hours, all was perfect silence; but whether from the quantity of tea ho had eaten, or the blows on his head, the doctor was very wake- ful, till the crier passed round the camp, arousing its inmates. They obeyed the call with great alacrity, and in a few mo- ments every lodge was levelled, and preparations were made for a start. The captives looked on anxiously, not knowing what dis- position would be made of them. While this was going for- ward, an old woman stepped up and offered the doctor a bark sack, containing about a peck of corn. He received it very gratefully, resolving, if ever he reached home, he would give Jier a newspaper puff, however he might serve the rest of her nation. But while he was reflecting upon the " generous, pitying nature of woman," to be found, in no matter what part of the earth, his cogitations were unpleas- antly interrupted by her laying hold of his only remain- ing blanket, and claiming it in exchange for the corn. He was about putting an unfavorable construction upon this act, when a man came forward and offered to exchange hor- ses vath him — for his was standing near — at which his kind preserver of the day previous interfered, making signs that the white man's horse was worth two of his, driving him away, with demonstrations that he was a very bad fellow. Not t' 1. TIN YEAR8 IN OREOOK. sot , V fm wisliing to part with liis liorse, the doctor thought of him, " surely you are a noble spirit ;" but before the first Indian was fully out of sight, the " noble spirit" brought out a horse not worth half as much as the other, and, reminding him o former services, forced him to trade. His romantic musings were effectually dissipated, and ho concluded that the whole nation were a set of rascally, reckless scamps. Tliis is the tribe among whom the accomplished Dr. Saturly, from El- mira. New York, a mission physician, was killed some eight years since. i, it away, Not ! ■ u * v'l 809 TZN TEAR3 15 OREGDI^. |i|r 141 CHAPTER XVXII. It " Li i U M Departure — Prairie on fire — Strong wind — Raw corn — Thirst — Dreams —Pool — Indians — Ruse — Living on raw corn — Big B'lie — C^-ove — Wild turkey — Lucky shot — Postponement of a feast — Sabbath — Bad night — Indian and family flour — Nice bread — Frozen squashes — Residence of Mr. Fish — Beautiful country — Westport — Mr. Brown — Independence — Divine worship — YirAt to the mission. With a few refuse Indian ponies, and the dearly bought bag of corn, Chapman, "without a hat, and the rest deficient in articles equally necessary, accompanied by three Indians, Gur " forlorn hope" started for the hills, in the direction the chiefs had advised them to go the night before. The agent felt as though he had been well picked, and like any thing else than a United States government ofiicer. Indeed, he was ostensibly so no longer, for the Pawnees had robbed him of his commission. Their guides escorted them a few miles and left them ; and the party had not proceeded far, when they discovered that the prairie was on fire di- rectly behind them. This had probably been done by the young men, infuriated at not receiving a share of the booty. It was the first of November, the wind strong, and from the north-west, while they were travelling to the south-east, driving the fire immediately upon them ; and the long dry grass affording excellent combustible matter. They jour- neyed on til] two o'clock, and then turned their horses loose upon the prai'le, while they ate a few cars of dry corn, TBN YEARS IN OREGON. 309 ■.-■'1 from ■cast, dry jour- loose corn, whicli, as tbcy were very hungry, relished much better thua they had expected. But the horses were so tliirsty that they would not graxc, so they remounted, the fire having gained rapidly upoa them during the few moments they had tarried. They pushed on until between one and two o'clock at night, suf- fering from want of water, of which they had not found a drop, when, the heavy dews having somewhat checked the fire, they determined to rest. They had hardly laid down on the old buffalo skins, gra- ciously given them by the Indians, when, through excessive weariness, they dropped asleep. They had dozed but a short time, wh«n Chapnnn screamed out "fire! fire! the fire is upon us !" The others started up, but laid down again, for the exclamation was caused by the fcverisli dreams of the sleeper. But their sleep was incessantly dis- turbed by visions of fire, Indians, and water. At the end of an hour they 'yere somewhat refreshed, and, guided by the north star, endeavored to keep to the eastward, and morning ^'fjht soon came to their assistance. The fire now gained upon them, and they toiled on in severe suffering, until eleven o'clock, when, to their unspeakable joy, they found a pool of water. They drank as much as they dared for three hours, the wind veering so as measura- bly to relieve them ; and as to the poor animals, they had much difficulty to prevent them from injuring themselves by excessive drinking. At last they reluctantly moved forward, changing to a north-east direction, hoping soon to reach their road, but had gone only a few miles when they caught sight of Indi- ans, manifestly in pursuit of them. This, with their late adventures, was heart-sickening and discouraging. They r 1 1 pm I 4 M J ' r I^JI • p It ') htt 810 TEN TEARS IK ORBOOlT. knew that they came to plunder them of their little remain- i ng property, and their scalps. Poor Brown was intensely agitated, and spoke tenderly of his wife and children. The doctor cheeringly told him that they should have time to despond when they were nearer their foes, as they were nearly two miles distant, and that now was the time for ac- tion. They pushed directly forward as though they had dis- covered nothing, till they descended into a ravine, and wer« hidden from the sharp eyes of their pursuers, when they turned quickly round the hill, and thus avoided them. Three hours from this they suddenly, to their infinite relief, came out upon the great Oregon wagon trail. They were all suf- ficiently grateful, but poor Saxton, like Columbus, fell upon his face, and kissed the ground, and blessed the God of Heaven. They travelled wearily, but gladly on, till three o'clock in the morning, when the doctor, from extreme pain in his wounded head, fever, and exhaustion from want of food and water, was about to say to his companions, "go on, and if you can reach the States, well. I can go no fur- ther / — but the reflection came that this would have a dis- couraging influence upon them, and that it was his duty, to persevere as long as he could stand. A short time after this they happily came in sight of a grove, a suitable place for encampment. They tarried here a couple of hours, taking more raw corn, with puro creek water, and were greatly re- freshed. For eight long days they plodded on, '^ "bsisting upon corn, raw, boiled, and roasted. These days for the doctor were full of pain, debility, and anxiety. His injured head was in such a condition that he was some of the time i n fearful danger of a brain fever. They could not make rapid progress, as the Pawnees, on the principle that " ex- Qhange is no robbery," among the rest of t^ieir favors had TKN YEARS IN OREGON. 311 given them a colt eighteen months old, a one eyed two years' old poney, and a poor, crippled old creature, unut for any service, in the stead of their valuable horses. However, they pressed patiently on, till the ninth day at evening, they reached the Big Blue, where, as they entered a grove, they heard the wild turkeys "quit! quit!'* in the trees above their heads. Having so long fed upon raw corn, it now soured on their stomachs, and they were in such a state, as to be actually an offence to themselves, and were never more impressed with the idea that such food was designed for quadrupeds of the baser sort, rather than human beings. Turkeys, that night, bore a prominent part in their dreams. Brown and Chapman were up betimes, to get a shot at them, Avith their last charges in their guns, which had now been loaded over nine days. They stealthily crept along to the best possible position, and endeavored to fire at the same breath, afterwards declaring that they took aim,as though their lives depended — and perhaps they did — on the result. Brown's shot took effect, and down tumbled a turkey, and here turned in the proudest possible mood, while Chapman was in a correspondingly opposite. Thinking that the re- port of the gims might endanger their safety, they deferred their repast till camping. Evening came, the turkey was picked, and cooked with parched corn, and, although guilt- less of salt, was excellent. This meal changed the action of their stomachs, and materially improved their condition. The next day. Sabbath, they worked hard, and made twen- ty-two miles. At night the doctor sat down, much fatigued, and, lean- ing against an old tree, gladly ate his handful of corn, drank some cold water, and soon forgot all his troubles in sleep. :m &V i^^: ' V- i ■■*■ Hfi^i^ i ■"♦'.'v 1 312 TEN YEARS IN OREGOW. But he awoke at intervals, very cold, and on the whole, it was a tedious night, with little sleep. The next day waj; line, and the country beautiful, though the grass was coarse and dead, and the horses fared badly. The next day they mired, and were obliged to leave their best horse. The fol- lowing was marked by no event, save meeting an Indian and his family, of whom they obtained a turkey and a little flour. They pressed down the river, and arrived at a Frenchman's, where, with considerable difficulty, they bought another small quantity of flour. Eight hours after they camped, and, mixing some flour with water, baked it on withes, twisted, and woven in the form of a snow shoe. They found several frozen squashes, probably discarded by the Indians, which they boiled, and thickened with flour, making the first full meal they had eaten in twelve days. Two days afterwards they entered the house of Mr. Charles Fish, who was in the service of the Methodist Epis- copal Church, as blacksmith among the Shawnee Indians. His lady kindly prepared them a noble repast of pork, drid venison, potatoes, and bread. They departed the next morning, having dismissed forever the Pawnee sack of corn, which had become disgusting to their eyes as well as palates. That evening having passed through a beautiful, woody district of country, they arrived at the little hamlet of West- port, on the western suburb of Missouri. Their reception from Mr. Boon, nephew of the distinguished hunter, Dcmiel Boon, was kind and handsome. Tliey here dofted their Pawnee fixins for robes of another texture, and spent the night at Mr. Geer's hotel, where they were enter- tained very pleasantly. The next morning they set out for Independence, a distance of only twelve miles, w^here Dr. W, had the happiness of meeting several old friends, and TEN YEARS IX OREGON. 313 also of attending divine worship, and seldom had the service of the sanctuary been more grateful to him. Having been favorably impressed with the external appearance of the mission they had passed, three miles west of Westport, the doctor determined to return and visit it. He found it under the direction of Mr Berryman, with a school of not less than one hundred members. Mills, and every depart- ment of mechanism was carried on with the assistance of the pupils, and never did he visit a mission more flourishing, or in better condition. The plantation contained six hundred acres, well fenced, and in a fine state of cultivation. He here learned the death of Rev. Jason Lee, and obtained other news of interest. '*^i a •.Mi 314 TEN YEARS IN ORKOON. ' ;!: -i ;U_i' CHAPTER XXVIII. Outline of journey to Washington — Gracious reception— .Thoughts of home — Meeting with friends in New York city — Reach Ithaca — Arrival home — Letter to the editor of a western paper — Decrease of the Indian population in Oregon — Timbers of Oregon — Fossils — Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators of Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon — Treat- ment of public officers — Treatment of Dr. White. Dr. W. left Independence for St. Louis in company with Mr. Beach, an Indian agent to the Sacs and Foxes ; a gen- tleman from Charleston, a third in the employ of the north- western fur company, just from his post in the interior! a Baptist clergyman, originally from the Genesee valley, who had travelled extensively both in this country and Europe, and a Catholic priest, professor in the university at St. Louis. The last two carried on several eccle- siastical discussions, which were very intesesting, from the abihty with which they were managed, and the excellent spirit which was manifested, creditable to both their heads and hearts. The gentleman from South Carolina, expatiated largely on the virtues of Mr. Calhoun, with true southern enthusiasm. The gentleman from the Rocky Mountains, dwelt upon the novelties and advantages of the fur trade in by-gone days, contrasting them with its present condition, at the same time speaking warmly of the good resulting from the exclusion of alcoholic drinks from the territory. On the fourth day, at evening, they arrived at St. Louis, and f <■ TKN TEARS IN OREGON. 315 Thoughts of ich Ithaca — -Decrease of n — Fossils — ote — Wrong gon — Treat- pany with es ; a gen- the north- e interior > sec valley, •untry and 3 university eral eccle- [, from the 3 excellent heir heads expatiated le southern Mountains, 3 fur trade i condition, 1 resulting 2 territory. Louis, and the doctor was not a little surprised at its wonderful growth, during the last four years. While here, his old friend, Dr. Phillips, from Ithaca, called and offered him a seat in his carriage, and they together visted all the public places of the city. There he took a steamboat for Cincinnati, having on board Mr. George Smixer, bearing the body of his wife to their former home, in Kentucky, for burial. He also made the acquaintance of Mr. , who, with his lady, was on his way to Washington, to take his departure for his consul- ship, at Trieste. At Cincinnati he spent a short season with his brother, and then started up the river for Washington. They had proceeded but a short distance, when the river was completely blocked up with ice, and the passengers were obliged to land, and take land conveyances. At the village of , below Pittsburgh, the doctor was glad to exchange the lumber-wagon for a stage-coach, to convey them over the mountains. The journey was attended with some hardship, and considerable danger of upsetting, as several had already done, at the expense of broken limbs, etc. The journey by railroad, via. Baltimore, was speedy and pleasant, bringing him to Washington, as he had ardently hoped, at the com- mencement of the session. As this was the time of the great 54° 40' dispute, and the agent so recently from the territory, bearing despatches from its legislature, his reception was the more gracious. As was his duty, he first paid his respects to the commmissioner of Indian affairs, the Hon. Wm. Medill, to whom he had pre- viously sent in his report. He received him with marked kindness, and after a short interview, proposed accompanying him to Mr. Marcy's, secretary of war. Both accompanied him to the white house, where the doctor was presented to Mr. Polk, who invited him to an interview with himself and the ^tiy ■■"■■ ''.■• ii- 816 TEN YE/v'.8 IN OREGON. secretary of war, at dusk, as he would then be at lei- euro. He then returned to his lodgings, scarcely repressing a smile at the seeming importance a four years' residence in the Orcfjon woods had : til em was and his old he travelled day of the !ttle cottage isped in the 3on after his ar as relates 10 have emi- ding the in- cii-culating ditics, yet it erally pros- xpression of ion, is, that of beautiful water, and t quality of salmon, and for strength and depth of soil. I know of no people so generally, or so highly pleased with their loca- tions, or homes, as those of the Willamette valley. From a nine years' residence there, 1 must pronounce it the most mild, equable, and salubrious climate of Avhich I have any knowledge. Nor do I believe any population have suffered so little from sickness, or had so few deaths in the same length of time, since the commencement of the colonizing of America. All portions of Oregon are distinctly healthy ; most parts Avell adapted to grazing ; a district, as Captain Wilkes so justly remarked, of the lower portion, sufficient to sustain a population equal to that of New England, is admi- rably fitted both for grazing and agriculture. ** * *•'> It is believed that no lono-er acco than the commencement of the present century, not less than five hundred thousand Indians inhabited the wilds west of the Rocky Mountains, within the territory of Oregon. Even admitting this, how sparse a population is this, in comparison with any por- tion of the civilized world. Dr. White, by the most careful attention, in his official investigations in 1845, found, to his entire satisfaction, that not exceeding twenty-seven thousand aborigines were left, making a decrease, in less than half a centur}^, of nine-tenths. This astonishing diminution was brought about by the introduction into the country, of the white man and his diseases ; among the latter, that frightful scourge, the small-pox has made fearful ravages, and in many parts the fever and ague, in the first opening of the forests, and turning over of the prairie, has been still more fatah The woods of Oregon exhibit the two opposite extremes more forcibly than perhaps any other country. The east- ern part is very sparsely timbered, and that of very stinted I' ■ •1 '• 1.' 318 TBN TSARS IN OREGOir. growth ; the western is liappily interspersed with prairie and timber, the latter of very luxuriant growth. The variety is quite limited ; the red, and white fir, cedar, pine, sycamore, alder, oak, white and black, hard and soft maple, ash, elm, cotton wood, dogwood, crab, and elder, the latter of which, grows, as Mr. Parker remarks, to a size elsewhere unknown. The following comprise some of the natural fruits : goose- berries, strawberries, blackberries, servicebcrries, cranber- ries, and Scotchcap, crab apples, wild cherries, Avild peas, and thorn apple. The fossil kingdom aflfords small variety, the basaltic rock being found in larger quantities than any other. Few speci- mens of real granite are found, and they scattered about in ledges of a few hundred tons, and long distances apart. White marble is also semetimes found in the upper country ; lime and sand stone finish the variety, except far to the north, free stone is found in large quantities. Though strong indi- cations on the surface seem to suggest that Oregon abounds in minerals, yet, from the slight observations thus far made coal, iron, and platina alone have been discovered, and it is supposed by many, that the earth has undergone such change in the heat of volcanic action, that most of the minerals have been reduced to a state of fusion, and escaped. The buffalo, whose old trails show how numerous they have been on the western side of the mountains, are now fast disappearing, the comparatively few there are left, are in the eastern and upper portions of the country. The elk, black-tailed and common deer, grizzly and black bear, three species of the wolf, wildcat, panther, fox, hare, rabbit, ante- lope, racoon, porcupine, weasel, polecat, squirrel, mountain sheep, beaver and otter constitute the animals of the terri- tory. The birds, are the eagle, swan, goose, loon, duck, TEN YEARS IN OIIEOON. 319 prairie and iG variety is , sycamore, c, ash, elm, r of which, e unknown, 'its : goose- s, cranber- wild peas, lasaltic rock Few speci- ed about in inces apart, er country ; o the north, strong indi- on abounds s far made I, and it is luch change inerals have lerous they IS, are now e left, are in . The elk, bear, three abbit, ante- 1, mountain f the terri- loon, duck. brant, crow, hawk, raven, mngpic, pigeon, wicn, robin, swal- low, bluejay, buzzard, cormorant, gull, owl, bluebird, yel- lowbird, and hummingbird. There are probably a few oth- ers, omitted in the above list. The soil of the interior and castcm portion is light and sandy, like Poland, being capaciated for grazing rather than arable purposes ; while in the western and south-western it is a mixture of clay, loom and sand, and alluvial deposit, much of the soil partaking of a salicous nature, and is ad- mirably adapted to the production of wheat, indeed, no country excells it in this respect. The legislators of Oregon are selected from three classes ; First, mission gentlemen, not clergymen, but those filling the secular department ; second, the most enterprising and in- telligent of the western people, who have settled in the country, with considerable property ; the third class arc principally those who have previously been for a considera- ble time in the fur companies, and h.ive now settled in the "Willamette valley. They freqently, after the business of the day, amuse the first two classes, with tales of by -gone days, contrasting their present situation with what it was when they were hunting and trapping with the tribes of the mountains. Joseph Meek — now in the states with the news of the disturbances in Oregon — the first sheriflf elected un- der the provisional government, and afterwards re^.i-esenta- tive ; a real wag, was famous for his wit, ready-mindedness, and especially for his ample fund of good humor and bra- very. He was once hard pressed by the Black Feet, and on a tardy-moving mule, and his companions, being better moun- ted, soon distanced him. The bullets flew around his ears, and through his garments, and spurring furiously, he shout- ed to his friends " stop ! stop ! hold on, boys ! there is no •Vii.-. 't; J I 320 TEN YEAnS IN OREGON. t ■ij 3 ll T 1 4 k'.' iff ■ i '.•1 ir t;*i(B J i clanycr !*" 13ut tlioy pushed on unhcedingly, dlsti usliriLj lii-« assurances of safety, when occuhir demonstnition so strongly asserted to the contrary. Suddenly, muly received a flesh wound, it stirred up his locomotive powers, and ho exercised them to admiration, for to the astonishment of his rider, he overtook his company and passed tliem. As lie was rapidly leaving them behind, he cried, at the top of his voice, " Come on ! come on, I tell you! lliJo for your lives ! They will kill every blood of you." They were now more credulous than before, and strove to obey him with all the speed of their horses. Ilis escape under Providence, was owing to the leaden touch received by the sensijtivc plant he bestrode. This legislative body have again and again petitioned the congress of the United States to extend jurisdiction over Oregon, making sensible, and even moving appeal-:, urging the moral wrong of stripping the Indian race of their lands,, game and fisheries, without rendering compensation for what is to them so valuable ; also of leaving American citizens, who were encouraged to emigrate to that country, surround- ed by hordes of Indians without any protection from the home government. The irritation on the part of the natives arising from the whites pouring in, in such numbers, and de- spoiling them of their rights, often jeopardizes the dearest interests of the settlors, and reflects great discredit on the government, for not rjjhting the wrong of the Indians, and protecting hav oyfrn'\\AZ(ix\^. No people, imdcr the circum- stances, could have behaved more worthily, and none hav^ been, apparently, more coldly neglected. Indeed, govern- ment is accused of having been culpably remiss in the per- formance of her duties both to the Oregonians, and those who have been there employed in her service. All such ofR- TEN YEARS IN OKKGON, 321 } stron'^lv ed a flcsli exercised rider, he as rapidl}' lice, 3ur lives ! I strove tc !is escapu 1 received itioned the ction over ds, urging,' heir land?. I for what n citizens, surround - from the he natives s, and dc- hc dearest dit on the dians, and 10 circum- nonc hav d, govern - II the per- and those I such offi- cers ns have even touched tlicre, in the performance of their ofTu'ifd duties, instead of beinj; liherally rewarded for their tuillifuhiess, seem to havi; received that wliieh was not so L;ralifyiiig. Comiuodoro Wilkes nohly braved the dangers and difheultiesof his long, exploring campaign, doing lionor (o himself and his country, in developing the condition and lesource.'? of Oregon. Immediately on his arrival at Wash- ington, on a few, petty, malicious accusations, he was court- marshalled, and it was gravely decided that he should re- (eive an open reprimand from the secretary of war. Colonel Fremont, certainly one of the most intrepid spirits of the age, has twice visitt;d Oicgon, and so far as the public have been permitted to perceive, is deserving of the highest encomiums. On his return, a dejected prisioncr, from his post of danger, where he appears to have been le- gitimately placed, he is dragged before another Washington iiibunal. Here, what a large sum of money was ex- pended in " endeavors to blast the prospects, and blight the fame" of this indefatigable laborer for the public weal, and he is professedly found guilty of treason. The president, not at all concurring in this expression, and yet unwilling tlia( so grave a body should be dishonored, under his administra- tion, treats the subject in such a manner, that Fremont, in disgust, throws up his commission, and retires forever from the service of his country. Dr. White, Avhosc reports were treated in the most flat- tering manner by the '.ommissioner of Indian affairs, in his icporls to the secretary of war, continued, with every dem- onstration of favor, the whole of his term — four years — in his perilous, and arduous duties, in which, in the absence of all aid from the government, he seems to have been entirely -tiucessful. He finally returned by the request of, and bear- 21 • t tBm , ''ft HE 1 '■ is * isl '.'■■'' 1 ' ■■ 1 i r 'I 322 TKN TEARS IN ORKOOK. ing a memorial and petition from, the legislature of Oregon, and Avas received at Washington with every indication of kind regard, and as I find from a note in his possession, di- rected by the secretary of war, dated the 6tli of January three days after reaching his family, he is ordered back U.> his agency as soon as practicable. And yet, on account of a paltry sum he is obliged to disburse annually, to preserve peace and quietness betwe«?n the whites and Indians, he is de- tained at Washington, on heavy expenses, for nine monthds. to get a bill passed through congress for hi 5 relief, In the meantime, some malicious persons, taking advantage of his detention, and make such representations, as impair his credi* with the president, and he is given to understand, that ho is no longer required in the service. So he retires from his thai:!kless office, having retained it at the stupen- dous yearly salary of seven hundred and fifty dollars, for the performance of laborious and onerous duties, while a clerk at Washington receives from one thousand to fifteen hundred dollars for six houi i' labor per day, and living at then- ease. Every effort was made by Dr. White's numer- ous fiiends at the capitcl, to double his salary according to the unquestionable intimations held out by Mr. Spencer, sec- retary of war, under president Tyler, to the doctor, on en- tering the service, as will be seen by the following letter : Albany, July 29, i846. Dr. Elijah White: Dear Sir : Your letter of the 22d inst. was duly received ; and I regret that circumstances have prevented an earlier an swer. In r.ompliance with your request, I proceed to stat? the circumstances of your appointment of Indian rub-agenf for the Oregon couiitry. TR» YEAU8 IN OUEOON. 328 ►rcgon. tion of ion, di- anuary jack U> ount of ►reserv*^ ic is de- montbfs. ief, In itage of J impair crstaad, } retirev* stupen- lars, for while a fifteen living at numer- rding to icer, sec- r, on en letter : 9, i846- received ; jarlier an- to statp ub-agent Soon after entering the war department, my attention was turned to the condition of the citizens residing upon, or in the vicinity of the Columbia river. They were v.ot only without any government to regulate themselves, but they were prac- tically without the protection of incir own government, and •exposed to the encroachments of the British authorities there, as well as to the attacks of the Indians. In the then condition of our relations with Great Britain, it was very important that our citizens should have softie known agent of the government, to who :n they might looli for advice an:l some degree of protection ; and it was equally important that the government should have some trustwor- thy and responsible officer upon the spot, to watch c ur in terests and inform us of every movement of the British au thorities and of the Hudson's Bay company, and to inter pose, as far as possible, to prevent Indian aggressions. WMlo the subject was under consideration, both by the pres- ident and myself, you appeared at Washington and was in- troduced to me. We learned that you had resided at Willa raette, on the Columbia, and in conversation with you, 1 found you to be well inforu.ed on the subject, and that you fully appreciated the objects of an agency there. After con sultation Avith the president, and with Dr. Linn, tne distin- guished Senator from Missouri, who for years had taken par ticular interest in the matter, and with their advice and sanc- tion, I proposed to you the appointment of Indian sdb agent for the Indians west of the Rocky Mountain^ — that being the only office in the power of the executive to bestow which would at all answer the purpose in view, andyou waa urged to accept it, an J t? raise as large a company of our citizens as possible, to proceed with you, and settle in the Oregon country. The insufficiency of the salary— seven il 324 TE» TEARS IN OREGON'. Er ;.^ hundred and fifty dollars — was admitted, but it was the best v.e could offer ; and, as an inducement to you to accept the appointment, you was told that a bill had been, or would be, introduced into the senate by Dr. Linn, in relation to the Or- egon territory, in which provisions would be made for Indian agencies of a higher grade and greater compensation ; and I think one thousand five hundred or two thousand dollars was mentioned as the probable salary. You was assured, that if jiuch a bill passed congress, you would receive an appoint- ment to the highest grade of agency, and that you might depend upon the support of the department, and the good will of the president — and the utmost liberality consit^tent with the laws, in defraying any extra expenses which \\q.^ authorized. Under these circumstances you accepted Jn.- appointment of sub-Indian agent, and I have no doubt with the expectation of receiving an appointment of a higher grade, and with a larger salary. The bill of Senator Linn did not pass, and you was left ir, the place to which you was originally appointed. 1 bear testimony very cheerfully to the fidelity and zeal with which you discharged the duties of your station, and endeavored to accomplish the objects of government. You succeeded in organizing a party of more than one hundred of our citizens to emigrate to Oregon ; and I have every rea- son to believe that your services were eminently useful to the government, and beneficial to the so' tiers. I deeply regret that it Avas not in the power of the administration, of v>^hich I was a member, to render you adequate remuneration for those services, and for the great labor and toil, and the de- votion of your time, to what was then deemed, and is stiU believed to have been, objects of great public interest. I i l'— =: .» 0^^ TEN YEARS IN OUEGOK. 325 1 trust that the present congress will make a liberal provision for the deficiency. Very respectfully, your ob't servant, J. C. SPENCER. The above is in answer to one written by Dr. White, at the request of the committee on Indian affairs, relative to the circumstances of his appointment of Indian Sub- Agent for Orcoon Territory. But the exertions of his friends were defeated by a few heated partizans of the south, who, r: the bill, by a two-thirds vote, came up out of its usu- al ordcH, the last hour of the session, proposed an amend- ment, reducing the pi'oposcd stipend of fifteen hundred dol- lars, to seven hundred and fifty dollars, their organ swear- ing that unless accepted, he would speak out the remnant of the time allotted, and thereby defeat the bill. The doc- tor's fi lends were silenced, and lie, after his public expendi- tures were, paid, obliged to accept this paltry sum for defraying annually the pj'ivate expenses of himself and family ; while Ms opponents were receiving eight dollars per day, with all conting1.- ■.>"*•; iy- %•-.''. f •! i\» r.: ir '♦2 t i I'l 326 TKN Y£AIIS IX OREGON. directed to its arousal, and success crowned the effort far beyond what might have been anticipated. The house of God, a neat brick church, was first painted within and without, handsomely fenced, with other fixtures, and corresponding improvements. Next, the public house, the only liquor establishment, is purchased by sixteen gen- tlemen, at the expense of one hundred dollars each, and un- cr a strong constitution, becomes tee- total forever; is re- paired, and put into a condition to be carried on in connexion with { *iial enterprise, exceeding the others in magnitude and good pj A large, fine building — formerly a church — on a comm.uiiding site, is no longer to be abandoned and run to dilapidation. Lansing, nothing wearied, redoubles her efforts, and in a short time thousands are contributed to tit up a literary institution, worthy the position and such a people. And what undertaking more highly commendable than to provide "ways and means" for the free, liberal edu- cation of youth ? Surely none. Upon the presentation of Dr. W. to the philanthropic, en- terprising association of I. 0. of O. F., of which he is a mem- ber, which they receive with favor, he is offered an endow- ment for the contemplated academy — a sum worthy this honorable b enevolent order. And a special mark of favor is a proposition of placing in the school, as its head, profes- sor Hopkins, Deputy G. M. of Cayuga District, and standing correspondingly high in the esteem of his brotliers, his abil- ities having been fairly tested by fourteen year's experience as principal in so respectable an establishment, in the city of Auburn. All this is being done by the Odd Fellows, with the simple condition of continually retaining the privilege of pla- cing there their orphans, the little village being sunicicntly TBH TBARB IN OREOOK. 327 quiet and retired for the puipose of educating such chil- dren, entirely free from the vitiating influeu;es of larger places ; a temperance hotel and boardinghouse, good moral society, a steady place of divine worship, health and scen- ny, with other advantages seldom combined in a single lo- (^tion, are here united. Thus Dr. White, after his truly adventurous life, respon- sible duties, and many dangers, finds himself settled, in what has been conceded by travellers to be one of the love- liest of spots, in the exact centre town of the old Empire State. ;-n -;■'•■ ■W\'t-' n 328 TEN YEAliS IN OREGON. SUPPLEMENT. "i '4 8 TiiK following interesting report Iiaving been accidentally omitted, and finding other valuable information relative to Oregon, in Dr. White's possession, I trust the supplement will not be regarded unfavorably, especially as it contains matter highly creditable to the Oregonians, and useful to all such as purpose emigrating to that country. Department of War, Oflicc of Indian AfTairs, Nov. 24, 1845. ******* Two interesting and very instructive reports have been received from the sub-agent west of the Rocky Mountain?. They present that country in a new and important light to the consideration of the public. The advancement made in civilization by the numerous trib(,'s of Indians in that remote and hitherto neglected por- tion of our territory, Vvith so few advantages, is a matter of surprise. Indeed, the red ukmi of that region would almo;:t seem to be of a different order from tho.'^e witli whom we have been in niore familiar intercourse. A few years since, tb-' fiice of a AV'hite man was almost unknown to them ; now, through the benevolent policy of the various christian church- es, and the indefatigable exertions of the missionaries in their TEN YEARS IK OUEOON. 329 t ■ •n 1 been itiiins. rht to icrous d por- ter of 1 1 most have ', lb.' novr, iiircb- 1 tbcir employ, they have piesciibed and well adapted rules for their government, which are observed and respected to u degree worthy of the most intelligent whites. Numerous schools liave grown up in their midst, at which their children are acquirijig the most important and useful information. They have already adviaiced to a degree of civilization that promises the most beneficial results to them and their brethren on this side the mountains, with whom they may, and no doubt will at some future period, be brought into intercourse. They are turning their attention to agri- cultural pursuits, and, with but few of the necessary uten- sils in their possession, already produce sufficient in some places to meet their every want. Among some of the tribes huntinu- has been almost en- tirely abandoned, many individuals looking wholly to the soil for support. The lands are represented as exti'eniely fertile, nnd the cli- mate healthy, agreeable, and uniform. Under these circumstances, so promi.^ing in their conse- qu n<'es, i;nd grateful to the feelings of the philanthropist, it would seem to be the duty of the government of the Uni- ted Stalca to encourage their advancement, and still fuither aid tliC'ir j}rogrcss in tlie paths of civilizution. I therefore respectfully recommend the establishment among them uf a full Mgency, with power to the pi'esident to nuike i. iin act- ing supeiintendcncy ; nud to appoint one or more sub-;igent.s whenever, in his judgement, the same may become necessary and pidpor. All uf uhich is respectfully aubmitted. W. MEDIT.L. lion. Wm. L. Makcv, Secietary of \V;ir. ■~f> ■■■' • 'I m <;^: 330 TEN YRARB IN OREGOIT. Willamette, Nov. 24, 1844. Sir — The Hudson's Bay ship Columbia, sailing in a few days, via. Sandwich Islands, for England, by the politeness of her owners I have the honor of again addressing you, and certainly under circumstances most favorable and galifying. Since my last, forwarded >n March, aside from two or three incidents of an unpleasant nature, the colony and coun- try have been in a state of unusual quietness, and the sea- son has been one of great prosperity. The legislative body, composed of nine members, met on the 24th of May, at the falls of the Willamette, and closed their short but effective session in nine days ; having passed, in due form, twenty-five bills, most of which were of impor- tance to us in the regulation of our intercourse. A few of these laws I transmit to you, and would here remaik, that the taxe** were in general cheeifuUy paid. The liquor bill is popular, and the laws of Oregon are honored. The liquor act not coming in force under sixty days from its passage, a few individuals — having clandestinely prepa- red, before its passage — improved this favored moment to dispose of all they could with any hopes of safety. Of this T was immediately notified, and hastened in from the Fala- tine plains, all the mischief " as heretofore," being done in and about the town at the falls of the Willamette. Liquor was in our midst, as was but too manifest from the noisy, vulgar, obscene, and even diabolical expressions of those who had previously ever conducted in a quiet and or- derly manner. This was plerplexing and exciting, as all professed igno- rance ; and many opinions prevailed regarding the amount manufactured, and the number interested, and especially re- garding the seat of mischief or point where distilled. TKKYKAllS IN ORKGON. 331 :, 1844. in ji fevr leness of you, and ;utifying. I two or ,ud coun- thc sea- s, met on nd closed ig passed, of impor- A few of nark, that liquor bill lays from L'ly prepa- aoment to , Of this the Fala- ho: done in st from the cssions of iel and or- ssed igno- he amount pecially re- lied. I resolved, at whatever danger or cost to nip this in the bud, il>l meetnig at once, owing expression from a d had )rocuied the call of a the happiness to receive th( one convened : "Resolved, That it be the sense of this meeting, that Dr. White, in his official relation, take such assistance as he may require, and forthwith search out and destroy all intoxicating liquor that may be found in this vicinity or district of coun- try. P. G. STEWART, Executive Chairman. John E. Lomo, Secretary." I started wiuh ten volunteers early the ensuing morning, and found the distillery in a deep, dense thicket, eleven miles from tow:i, at three o'clock, P. M. The boiler was a large sized potash kettle, and all the apparatus well accorded. Two hogsheads and eight barrels of slush or beer were •sUinding leady for distillation, with a part of one barrel of molasses. No liquor was to be found, nor as yet had much been distilled. Having resolved on my course, I left no time for reflec- tion, but at once upset the nearest cask, whd) Mie noble vol- unteers immediately seconded my mea^iures, making a river of beer in a moment ; nor did we stop till the kettle was raised, and elevated in triumph at the prow of our boat, and every cask, with all the distilling apparatus, was broken to pieces and utterly destroyed. We then returned, in high cheer, to the town, where our presence and report gave gea- cral joy. Two hours after my arrival, I received from James Con- nor, one of the owners, a written challenge foi' a bloody combat ; which v.nded hu;t week in his being indicted before 332 TEN YEARS IN OKEGON. u ' Jl ..,1',. the grand jury, fined five hundred dollars, und disfrancliised for life. Six weeks since, an unhappy affray occurrt^d between one Joel Turnham, late from Missouri, and Webley Ilauxhaust, of Willamette, and serious threats passing from the former, a warrant was issued, and Turnham, resisting with a deadly weapon, was shot down by the officer; for which he comes before the grand jury to-morrow. Turnham expired at once, beini; shot with three mortal wounds throu{rh the neck and head, but with singular desperation fought and resisted to the last. So fj'- ^, are taking deeper and stronger root continually. And some arc already suggesting, " notwithstanding our in- fancy," wliether, if longer h'ft without a mother's protection, it will not be well to undertake to run alone. JJ m TliU VnAUS IN OREGON. 038 •anchised ween one luxhuubt, e former, a deadly he comes id at once, neck and esisted to I unite in l'ss, quiet, most des- j left Mis- reputation pur, irrita- as he was >'onist. rand jury o\v mc to the courts ot seen in ;ss as has this mild- ;ible to thi' at circiira- )t!tinually. mg our ip.- t)iotectiun. The resources of the country are rapidly duveloj)ing, and the expectations of tl.c people arc generally high ; the iniUl- ncss of the climate and the strength of the soil greatly en- courage the large emigration of last year. For the last Uelvemonths.the mercury has ranged from ninety-six tt) tliir- ty ; four-fifths of the time from eighty to fifly-five ; making tn agreeable summer and mild winter, grazing being good throughout, so much so, that the jaded and worn down ani- mals of the poor emigrants fattiid up, greatly to their sur- prise, before spring, without fe- ding or the least atten- Uon. Crops of all kinds usually good, even to Indian com, and cheerfulness prevails throughout since harvesting. As slate- incnts have been made in the states derogatory to our soil, allow me to say, it is believed, with the same cullivati(Mi, no country produces better wheat, oats, peas, barley, potatoes, or any crops, save Indian corn, for which the nights are gen- <;rally too cool for a heavy growth. The wheat crops being never injured by the frosts of winter or the rains of sum- mer, " as in the states," arc remarkably sure ; nor as yet have our crops been disturbed by flies or insects. Wheat crops are heavy, as you will judge when I assure you from siraj)ly turning over the prairie in June, scattering the seed in October, and then, with no further trouble than passing the harrow over it, ten acres upon my plantation grew live hundred and forty-one bushels and a half. I'hc river flats, containing much alluvial deposit, arc very rich ; the plains beautiful and verdant, being admirably watered, but generally sparsely timbered ; the high Unds well tim- bered and watered in mnny parts, the soil tolerable, produ- cing herbage for an abundance of deer, elk, mountain sheep, etc. etc. The entire Willamette and Umpqua valleys, capa- . • ij 834 TEK TEARS IN OnEOOK. l|lf m *^| e ■ i- l^-^^, ble of sustaining a population of sovcral millions, it is gonr rally Ix'liovcd cannot be excelled, as a whole, for richness of soil, viiii(!ty, grandeur, or beauty of scenery ; nor, consider ing the latitude, can be equalled in mildness, equability, and agreeableness of climate. Since last writing, abundance of limestone has been found at the mouth of the Columbia, and likewise in tins valley conveniently obtained, and proves of an excellent quality. The llev. Mr. Desni'itt arrived here in August last, bring ing, as a part of his cargo, six priests, and as many nun?, fine, hale looking girls, very acceptable just now, particu larly as the Methodist mission is breaking up, and the half breed Canadian daughters are iaj)idly multiplying. Having no pilot or chart to depend upon, and his com mandcr a stranger, he sailed in through the south channel, greatly to the surprise and alarm of all on shore ; but with out injury or difficulty, not onc<' toncl.ing, and reporting abundance of water for the heaviest burden ships * * The sands are supposed to have changed an( ..roved the channel ; but of this I know nothing, and am iiot a little skeptical ; and am induced to attribute their success more t<> the (ln(! day and small vessel than change of the sands in their favor, since Capt. Wilkes left. Capt. Couch, however, who has now been passing in and out here for the last fiv<' years, in the service of Mr. Cashing, of Newbury port, pro nounces it a better port to enter than theirs, and says, with pilots, there will be little difficulty or danger. Our exports arc wheat, b(^aver, salmon, and lumber, for which in return we obtain from Sandwich Islands suffar. o molasse?;, te.iT coffee, and other commodities brought from China, England and America. Ve are much in want of a currency and market, Amen TEN YEAUH IN OREGON. 036 t IS gene ichness of consider hility, and ecn found his valley it quality ast, bring lany nun? V, purlieu d the baU T. 3 [ bis com Lb cbanncV ; but witb reporting i * * ..roved liot a littb' ^ss more t«> be sands in 1, bowcver. be last fivo yport, pro I says, witb lumber, for aids sugar, ougbt from ket, Amen can morcbants being as yet a slender reliance ; and in view of the largo emigrating piirties of each year, we should be greatly distressed for necessary articb^s of wearing apparel. but for the commemlable spirit of accommodation on tlie part of the Hudson's liay Company. Could some arrangement be enteied into for us to supply the navy of the Pacific with bread, beef, pork, fish, etc., we would thereby be much improved in our condition. Thi** might, and perhaps ought to be done, in view of the encour agemenls held out for our people to emigrate to this country. .Should it not be convenient for our ships of war to conu^ t«» the Columbia for such supplies, th(»y could b(; .shij)pid to the Sai\dwich Islands, if required. IJut more of this another time. Having just taken the tour of the colony for the purpose of attending the courts and visiting the schools, it alTords me pleasure to say I felt amply rewai led. I found throughout health, cheerfulness, and prosperity, and certainly most sur- prising improvements for the t;bort time since the settler? commenced. The decorum of the courts I have .spoken of. and now have only to speak of the schools and Indians, and I am done ; fearing I have ;ilready wearied your patience. For the want of means, the Methodist manual labor Indian school has lately broken up, and this is now occupied as a boardinsr school for white children of both se.ves. The school is yet small, but well conducted, and promises useful- ness to the colony. The k«''.oo1 at the falls of the Willamette and Fullatinc plains, and likewise the one under the direc tion of the Rev. Mr. Blanchcttc!, Catholic clergyman, are all small — numbering from fifteen to thirty only ; but are all well kept and doing good. I feel solicitous on this sub- ject, and am saying and doing what I can to cncouiog*' ..•'• f I '^ 'fV .•^so TEN YEARS IN' OREGON (.'ductilion, but, like all oihov new rountric?, the people nrcfl and require their children much at home. Since the uniiappy aflair of last spring, the Indians have been unusually quiet, and the summer hae been spent witliout alarm. I sent my interpreter, ^Nlr. Lee, to the Vvalhuvallas hix weeks since, to m;ike pnme presents to the chiofri, ns n safe conduct to the emigrants down to tliir, place. Ilis reply I transmit, I addressed a lire io ^Ir. J. Vk Littlejohn, who 's just down from there, and received the annex ;d '"oply. All other statements are con'oborative : Willnmcttc, November ], 1844. Dkau Sill — It is witii (lie utmost pleasure I iindertake to ij;.ve vou what iiift)rmatlon I i)m able to do, I have resided with the missionaries^ of the American board for two years past ; T have known their hearts, and am well acquainted with all tlicy have done. 1 lieir inlluence among the Indians i.s by no means small, or their efforts vain, as their condition is very much improved, both in a spiritual and temporal point of view. And, de;^.r sir, your eflorts among and fo;' them have been much to their advant;igc, and at the same time not to the disadvantage of the missionaries, but greatly to increase their usefulness among them. I have no doubt you have labored with this motive in view. The Indians are Ixjconiing civilized as fast or faster than any tribes concern- ing whom I am informed. Th(;ir anxiety for cattle, hogs, and sheep, is very great ; leading them to make mo?-t com- mendable efforts to obtain them, and their efforts are bv no means vain. They have purchased a good number from those who are emigrating to this country, by exchanging tlieir hoi«cs for cattle. Thus, while their horses have been very useful to the emigrants, they have gratly benefitted TEN TEARS IK OREO OK. 337 )ple nrcd nns liavf t without ilia wallas iefs, as a Uh roply nhn, who id '-'.ply. 1,1841. lertalie to VQ resided two years icquainted 10 Indians condition temporal (f and foi* the same t greatly no doubt ndians are conccru- ttlo, hogs, TiO'="t corn- are bv no ber from »cchanging lavc been b<:>nefittcfl themselves. They are enlarging their farms yearly — Ira- proving much in fencing, etc. etc. Quite a number of fami- lies are enabled to live from what they raise on their farms, the milk of their cows and their beef. There is perfect qui- etness existing between them, and I have no doubt this state of things will continue to exist. Many things interesting might be written, but time does not allow me to say more at present. I am, dear sir, yours with great respect, J. B. LITTLEJOHN. Thus far the Indians have kept their treaties of amity with mc astonishingly well, and it is thought we now have as much to hope as fear from them, if we succeed in keep- ing out liquf '•j which, by the grace of God, not a few of us are resolved to do, though we do not pass unopposed, nor lilightly opposed ; and had it not been for that most salutary liquor law, and the hearty co-operation of some of the friends of temperance, with your agent, liquor would have already made ruinous havoc among us. The Methodist mission, though v>^e have not agreed on all subjects, have behaved very properly on this. And to them, in connexion with the honorable Hudson's Bay Com- pany, will the colony be lastingly indebted for their com- mendable efforts. Since my first arrival I have not received a line from the department save my last year's report. As my condition is peculiar, and not a little embarrassing, I should feel greatly obliged for an expression, and further instruction from the department. I have had, as may well be judged, much to •contend with, in the midst of lawless Indians of so many different tribes, and lawless whites of so many nations — 22 i-. ^: .■■» ii *•■*■■*' I- •M ■ *.' I t ■. '■fe 838 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. some bred upon old whaleships, others in the Rocky Moun- tains, and hundreds on the frontiers of Missouri. I have at times waded in deep perplexing difficulties, but am now greatly relieved by the colonial government, which as yet is well administered. By reason of this I now have less to do,, and sail in smoother seas, meeting with less opposition than heretofore — my proper official relations towards the whiteji! and Indians being better understood. I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your ob't and humble servant, E. WHITE, Sub-Agent Indian Aflfairs, W. 11. M, Hon. J. M. Porter, Secretary of War, Washington. Oregon City, March 4, 1845. Dr. E. White: Sir — In compliance with the request you made of me, that I should notice and communicate to you whatever, I might deem of interest during my visit, in your employ, to the va- rious Indian tribes east of the Cascade mountains, bearing to them presents with admonitions and advice from you in order to secure the safety and peace of the emigr? nts in their pas- sage through their country, The following is submitted : First. The Nez Perces. Your acquaintance with thia promising people renders it unnecessary for me to speak of their general character. I would simply remark, that their anxieties to become a civilized and literary nation, have suf fered no abatement since I left them ia March last, after hav- ing spent the winter with them most pleasantly, as teapher, in the employ of Rev. H. H. Spalding, missionary. EliiR, (if/:' :>*• TKN YE VR8 IN OREGOK. 339 Moun- have at m novr as yet is to do,, on than I whites )b't and R. M. I, 1845. me, that I might the va- earing to in order iieir pas- vith thia speak of lat their ave suf ■ter hav- teapher, , EUiR, with most of the chiefs, was absent, having gone to meet the emigrants, tVen in the vicinity of fort Boisic, with a view to furnish them provisions, and trade them horses for catt/e. You are aware of their eagerness to obtain domestic stock, and farming utensils, which I regard as one of the most in- teresting facts connected with Indian affairs west of the Rocky Mountains. Avarice is doubtless the ruling passion of most Indians, and forms a capital upon which those enga- ged in Indian affairs may operate for good or evil. With the Nez Perces, it has thus far, been turned to good account, ef- fecting results as beneficial to the whites and more salutary to the natives themselves, on this side the mountains, than has been effected on the other side by military force. Such is the prevalence of this " love of gain" amongst the Indi- ans, that all efforts to control them by motives held out to any ocher passion, must prove ineffectual, at least, while we are unable to awe them by martial parade. The individual difficulties existing between James, Timo- thy, and others, in relation to their claims on the valley, about the Clearwater mission, are, for the time, put to rest by the promise that you will visit th- oon, and have the matter properly adjusted. Their crops this year iiuve been abun dant, and they have furnished the emigrants large suf)plie8 of provisions, which I am happy to say, were bartered in good faith, and the trade conducted with much amity an 1 good feeling on both sides, while I have to regret 'lat Ellis and his people were unable to procure cattle to any extent, worthy of notice. The presents were received, and the ad- vice heard with a most respectful attention. Second. The Kkyuses are also manifesting a spirit of enterprise, highly commendable. They too, have raised much grain and potatoes, and are trading freely with the :iM: *■■■■ r If 1 t'% 1 ' ^ i 1 •• i •'.. ' %^ M ^ v: Y \'\-' mw !(. 840 TXir TEARS IN OHEGOir. emigrants. A number of their chiefs and principal men were absent at the time, having gone in company with a party of WallaTrallas, to California, with horses to trade for cattle. They have since returned, and I sincerely regret to learn the failure of this, their first expedition of the kind. The Spaniards, and other whites, treated them badly ; mur- dered one of the most pomising young men of the Walla- wallas, and the party returned without effecting the object of their trip. What influence this affair will have upon the conduct of these two tribes in reference to the next emigra- tion passing through their countries, time alone must deter- mine. The lawless bands along the river, from fort Wallawalla, to the Dalles, are still troublesome to emigrants ; and the em- igrants are still very imprudent in breaking off into small parties, just when they should remain united. The Indians are tempted by the unguarded and defenceless state of the emigrants, and avail themselves of the opportunity, to grat- ify their cupidity. Here allow me to suggest a thought. These robbers furnish us a true miniature likeness of the whole IndiEHi population, whenever they fail to obtain such things as they wish in exchange for such as they have to give. These are robbers now, because they have nothing to give ; all others will be robbers when, with what they have to give, they cannot procure what they wish. I am satis- fied of the Gorrectn<'ss of iiiis conclusion, from all that I have witnessed of Indian character, even among the praiseworthy N^ez Perccs. And should the Government of the United States withhold her protection from her subjects in Oregon, they witi be under the necessity of entering into treaty stip- ulations with the Indians, in violation of the laws of the TEN YEARS IN ORKGON. 341 United States, as preferable to a resort to force of arms. Hitherto, the emigrants have had no serious difficulty in pas- sing through the territory of these tribes ; but that their passage is becoming more and more a subjt ^t of interest to the Indians, is abundantly manifest. They collect about the road from every part of the country, and have looked on with amazement ; but the novelty of the scene is fast loosing its power to hold in check their baser passions. The next emigration will in all probability, call forth developments of Indian character, which have been almost denied an exist- ence amongst these people. Indeed, sir, had yoa not taken the precaution to conciliate their good feelings and friend- ship towards the whites, just at the time they were meeting each other, it is to be doubted whether ther j had not been some serious difficulties. Individuals on laoth sides have been mutually provoked and exasperated during the passage of each emigration, and these cases are constantly multiply- ing. Much prudence is required on the part of the whites, and unfortunately, they have very little by the time they reach the Columbia valley. Some of the late emigrants, loosing their horses, and very naturally supposing them sto- len by the Indians, went to the bands of horses owned by the Indians and took as many as they wished^ You are too well acquainted with Indians to suppose that fiuch a course can be persisted in without producing seriouB results. I am aware that this is looking at the dark side ; but, sir, perhaps it is wisdom to look at that side when it i« more than half turned towards us, if, by looking, we can find some way to turn it back again. I look to Ellis, and the speedy action of the general government of the United States, as the brightest features in the prospect now before •*'. ■i: -' S42 TRK TEARS IK ORKGOir. ^•fe US. Your knowledge of my situation and circumstances^ render any apology unnecessary for this imperfect scroll. I remain your humble servant, H. A. O. LEE, Dr. E. Whitb, Sub-agent Indian affairs, W. R. M. Fallatine Plains, Nov. 2, 1844. Dear Sir — Your communication of the 20th October, 1 844, was duly received, and a press of business has delayed my reply till now. In relation to the subject of enquiry contained in your letter — being the natural resources of Oregon — I can truly saj that I entertain a very high opinion of the great and de- cided advantages bestowed by nature upon this most inter- esting and beautiful portion of our globe. Our facilities for commercial enterprise are most decided, as the rapidly increasing commerce of the great Pacific lies at our very door. The climate of this country is more equa- ble, subject to fewer extremes than any, perhaps, in the world. I have been here about one year, and have found it. most delightful, and I can tmly say that it is the most healthy country I have ever lived in. During the present year, I have scarcely heard of a case of fever in the whole country. The timber of Oregon is indeed most superior, and constitutes a large portion of its wealth ; and we have not only the tallest, finest timber in the world, but we have every where water power to any desirable extent, suitable for propelling all kinds of machinery. The soil of this country is most excellent, and can be pre- pared and cultivated with less labor than that of any other country. Wheat is the great staple of the world : and as a TTCN TBARb rv OREGON. 348 wheat-growing country, this ranks in the very first chiss. The crop is not only of the best quality, but is always large •' and there is no such occurrence as a failure in the wheat crop. For potatoes, melons, turnips, and garden vegetables generally, our soil is superior. Indian corn does not succeed well, and in fact we have no use for it, as our cattle live all the year upon the natural pastures of the country. Since I have been here, I have myself been engaged in farming oc- cupations, and I have been astonished at the very small amount of labor required to cultivate a farm. Potatoes are planted, and nothing more is done to them until they are ready for digging ; when they are not dug, but generally turned up with the plow. Peas are sown broad-cast, like wheat, and are neither staked nor cultivated, and produce in great abundance. Plowing is done here from the month of September until July, and wh'^tvi, is sown from October to May ; and potatoes are planted in March, April, and May. A team of two horses, with a very light, easy plow, can break prairie land ; but a team of two yoke of oxen is most generally used. I am informed that timothy, clover, and blue grass all grow well in the soil of Oregon. For pasturage this country is pre-eminent. Horses, cattle, and sheep require neither feed nor shelter, and keep fat all the year round. Hogs are raised here with partial feeding, and pork is generally fattened upon wheat, and finer pork I never saw anywhere. I omitted to mention in its appropriate place that our har- vesting commences about the 20th of July, and continues throughout the month of August ; and during the present year we had no rain from about the 1st of July to the 15th October, so that we had the finest weather for saving our drops imaginable. ■:>:=A. ; -jp . 'V: '. ? .■ li ■ S44 TKN TEARS IN OREGON. One thing that strikes the beholder of this country with greatest force, is the unsurpassable beauty of its scenery. We have snow-clad mountains, beautiful valleys, pure, rapid streams running over pebbly beds, ^yith numerous cascade* and waterfalls, and trees of superior grandeur and beauty. The government of Oregon his grown up from necessity ; and perhaps no new organization has been adopted and sus- tained with such unanimity and good-order. Every circum- stance has tended to strengthen it. I attended the last term of the circuit courts in most of the counties, and I found great respect shown to judicial authority every where ; and did not see a solitary drunken juryman, or witness, or spec- tator. So much industry, good order, and sobriety, I have never observed in any community. Our population seem to be exceedingly enterprising, and are making rapid progresi to comfort and wealth. As yet, we have had no murders, no robberies, thefts, or felonies of any kind, except one as- sault with intent to kill. Our grand jurors have exhibited very laudable assiduity in discharging their duties, and crim- inals here will meet with certain and prompt punishment. Nature has displayed here her moL .nagnificent powers, and our country has its full share of natural advantages. Our prospects are most brilliant. If we can keep out intoxica- tion, and we will do it, half a century will not roll away be- fore there will exist in Oregon one of the most industrious, virtuous, free, and commercial nations in the world. I have already protracted this communication beyond it*; appropriate length, and will now close it by subscribing myself, Yours, etc. PETER H. BURNETT. Dr. E. White. TEK YEARS IN OBEOON. su Whereas the people of Oregon, now occupying one of the most beautiful and interesting portions of the globe, are placed in the most critical and responsible position ever filled by men, owing, as they do, important duties' to themselvea, to their country, to posterity, and to mankind, as the foun- ders of a new government and a young nation ; and whcrea* the introduction, distillation, or sale of ardent spirits, under the circumstances in which we are placed, would bring withering ruin upon the prosperity and prospects of this interesting and rising community, by involving us in idle and dissolute habits, inviting hither swarms of the dissipated in- habtants of other countries, checking emigration, destroying the industry of the country, bringing upon us the swarms of savages now in our midst, interrupting the orderly and peaceable administration of justice, and in a word producing and perpetuating increasing and untold miseries that no mind can rightly estimate : therefore, Be it enacted hyt the Legislative Committee of Oregon, au follows: Article I. Sec. 1. That if any person shall hereafter import or in- troduce any ardent spirits into Oregon, with intent to sell, barter, or trade the same, and shall offer the same for sale, barter, or trade, he shall be fined the sum of fifty dollars for each and every such offence, which may be recovered by ia- dictment or by trial before a justice of the peace, without the form of pleading. Sec. 2. That if any person shall hereafter sell, barter, or trade any ardent spirits of any kind whatever, directly or indirectly, to any person in Oregon, he shall forfeit and pay S46 TEN TEARS IN OREOOW. the sum of twenty dollars for cixcli and every such sale, barter, or trade, to be recovered by indictment in the circuit court, or before a justice of the peace, without the form of pleading. Sec. 3. That if any person shall hereafter establish or carry on a manufactory or distillery of ardent spirits in Or- egon, he shall be subject to be indicted before the circuit court as for a nuisance ; and if convicted, he shall be fined the sum of one hundred dollars, and the court shall issue an order to the sheriff, directing him to seize and destroy the distilling apparatus, which order the sheriff shall exe- cute. Sec. 4. That it shall be the duty of all sheriffs, judges, justices, constables, and other officers, when they have rea- son to believe that this act has been violated, to give notice thereof to some justice of the peace, or judge of a court, who shall immediately issue his warrant and cause the of- fending party to be arrested, and, if such officer has juris- diction to try such case, shall proceed to try such offender ^ ithout delay, and give judgement accordingly ; but, if such officer have not jurisdiction to try the ctise, he shall, if the party be guilty, bind him over to appear before the next cir- cuit court of the proper county. Sec. 5. That all sales, barters, or trades, made under color of gifts or otherwise, with an intention to evade this act, shall be deemed a violation of the same ; and all fines and penalties recovered under this act shall go into the gen- eral treasury ; and all officers receiving the same shall pay over to the sheriff, whose duty it ^hail be to pay the same into the treasury. Sec. 6. That this act shall not be so construed as to TBM TEARS IN OREGON. 347 ch sale, e circuit form of iblish or ts in Or- ic circuit be fined all issue destroy lall exe- , judges, lave rea- ve notice a court, 5 the of- las juris- offender t, if such 11, if the 1 next cir- e under vade this all fines the gen- hall pay he sanae ed as to prevent any practicing physician from selling such liquors for medicine, not to exceed one gallon at one time. Skc 7. That the clerk shall make out a copy of this act, and put the same up in Oregon City as soon as practi- cable. Skc. 8. That this act shall take effect within sixty days from and after its passage. Passed 24th June, 1844. M. M. McARVER, Speaker. Attest — J. E. Long, Clerk. An Act to provide for ways and means. Be it enacted by the Legislative Committee of Oregon as follows: Article 1. Sec. 1. That in order to raise a revenue for the pur- pose of defraying the expenses of the government, there shall be levied and collected a tax of one-eighth of one per cent, upon the following property, at a fair valuation, to- wit: — All merchandise brought into this country for sale; improvements in town lots ; mills, pleasure carriages, clocks, watches, horses, mules, cattle, and hogs. Sec. 2. All mule citizens over the age of twenty-one years, being a descendant of a white man, shall be subject to pay a poll tax of fifty cents. Sec. 3. That it shall be the duty of the collector of rev- enue to require of each and every merchant of Oregon to give him a statement of the amount of all merchandise on hand, in writing, to be stated upon oath or affirmation, which oath or affirmation the collector shall administer; and said col- lector shall collect and receipt for the tax upon such mer- ,■■•,.■•;• i i' ^i/. if .. r, ■f. ),* i|' ■■'•Si 348 TBIV TBARS IN OREOON. chundlse, which receipt shall serve snid merchant for it license for the next year, commencing from the time given And that when a merchant shall wish to renew his license, he shall give a simihir statement of all merchandise received by him for sale in the preceding twelve months, and thf collector shall only require him to pay tax upon the amount of said imports. • Skc. 4. That any person refusing to pay tax as in thi^ act required, shall have no benefit of the laws of Oregon, and shall bo disqualified from voting at any election in this country. Skc. 5. That the sheriff shall serve as ex officio collec tor of the revenue, for which he shall receive, as a compen sation for his services, tea per cent, upon all moneys col lee ted as revenue. Sec. 0. That the sheriff, before entering upon his duties as collector of the revenue, shall enter into bond, with two or more good and sufficient securities, in a sura not less than five nor more than ten thousand dollars, to be approved iij the executive, which approval shall be written upon the back of said bond, and the said collector's bond shall be filed in the office of the clerk of the court. Sec. 7. That the collector shall pay over to the treasu- ry, on the first Monday in each and every month in the year, all moneys that may be in his hands, and get the treasurer'* receipt therefor. Sec. 8. That it shall be the duty of the tribunal trans- acting county business, to require the collector to settle with said court at each and every regular term of said court in Klackamas county. Sec. 9. The collector of the revenue shall make full pay TKN TKAIlfl IN OREGON. 340 ant for i» mc pfiven lis license, e received 3, and th*' le amount as in thib f Oregon, ion in thifi :io coUcc a com pen cneys col his duties , with two t less than proved hj upon the all be filed he treasu- , n the year, reasurerV inal trans- settle with i court in :e full pay raent into the trepsury on or before the first Monday in De- •)cmbor in each year. Sec. 10. The revenue of Oregon shall be colloctrd in specie or available orders on solvent merchants in Oregon. 8kc. 1 1. That all acts and parts of acts contrary to this !f.ct be, and the same are hereby repealed. Skc. 12. This act to take effect from and after its pao^ tage. M. M. McARVER, Speaker. Attest — J. E, Long, Hecretary. To the citizens of Oregon : Gentlemen — Wc take the liberty of informing you that » person named " Henry Williamson," some time about the 15th of February, this year, took the liberty of erecting on the premises of the Hudson's Bay Company a few logs, in the form u hut, and wrote a notice upon an adjoining tree, that he had taken a section of land there. This wa.s done without our knowledge or consent, within a few hundied yards of a house occupied by one of the Hudson's Kay Com- pany's servants, and within the limits of their improvements. As soon as we were infomied of that proceeding, wc had the tree cut down and the logs removed, in order to prevent any future difFiculty with a person who had in a manner so unjustifiable, intruded on the Hudson's Bay Company's premises. The Hudson's Bay Company made their settlement at tort Vanc-fver, under the authority of a license from the British government, in conformity with the provisions of the treaty between Great Britain and tho United States of Amer- ica, which gives them the righ: of occupying as much land as they require for the operations of their business. n 350 TKW YEARS IN OREGON, 'It ji On the faith of that treaty, they have made a r\ ttlement on the north bank of the Cokimbia river ; they have opened rouds and made other improvements at a great outlay of capital : they have held unmolested possession of their im provements for many years, unquestioned by the public oflfi- cers of either government, who have, since the existence of their seitlenients repeatedly visited it ; they have carried on business with manifest advantage tc the country ; they have given the protection of their influence over the native bribes to every person who required it, without distinction of na tlon or party ; and they have afforded every assistance in their power towards developing the resources of the country and promoting the industry of its inhabitants. The tract of land they occupy, on the north bank of the Columbia river, is indispensable to them as a range for their flocks and herds, hvA, otherwise of little value, being in part inundiited every summer by the waters of the Columbia, and in part unimproveable forest land. Occupying the said tract of land by the authority of law. and under *he protection of the British government, they cannot submit to the infringement of rights so acquired ; and we, as their representatives, are bound to use every means sanctioned by the law which governs us against all trespass- ers on their premises, until otherwise directed by orders em- anating from the Hudson's Bay Company. Permit us to assure you, gentlemen, that it is our earnest wish to maintain a good understanding, and to live on friendly terms with every person in the country. We entertain the highest respect for the provisional organization; and knew ir.g the good it has effected, as well as the evil it has pre vented, we wish it every success, and hope, as we desire, to hii ^■ ^m T8M TBARS IN OREGON. 351 V ttlement re oponed outlay of their ira ublic offi- istence of sarried on they h&.\e tive iribes on of na istance in le country nk of the 3 for their \g in part mbia, and ty of law. ent, they ired ; and ry means trespass- rders em- ir earnest n friendly irtain th » Oregon City, March 21, 1845. ^iR — We beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letters — ^one dated 11th of March, and the other 12th of March — accompanied with an address to the citizens of Oregon. We regret to hear that unwarranted liberties have been taken by an American citizen upon the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's premises, and it affords us great pleasure to learn that the offender, after due reflection, desisted from the insolent and rash measure. As American citizens, we beg leave to offer you and your much esteemed colleague, our most grateful thanks for the kind and candid manner in which you have treated this mat- ter, as we are aware that an infringement on the rights of the Hudson's Bay Company in this country, by an A'riGri- can citizen, is a breach of the laws of the United States, by setting at naught her most solemn treaties with Great Britain. As representatives of the citizens of Oregon, we beg your acceptance of sincere acknowledgements of the obligations we are under to yourself and your honorable associate for the high regard you have manifested for the authorities of our provisional government, and the special anxiety you have TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 353 and the r declin- [int, 1, 1845. ir letters March — yon. ave been iay Corn- earn that i insolent and your > for the this mat- rights of 1 V'lncri- tates, by Great 3Cg your •ligations ciate for jritics of you have ever shown for our peace and prosperity ; and we assure you that we consider ourselves in duty bound to use every exer- tion in our power to put down every cause of disturbance, as well as to promote the amicable intercourse and kind feelings hitherto existing between ourselves and the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, until the United States shall ex- tend their jurisdiction ov^.:* us, and our authority ceases to exist. We have the howor to be sir, your most obedient servants, OSBOBNE RUSSELL, P. G. STEWART. John McLaughlin, Elsq. December 8, 1815. Memorial of the Legislative Commiilee of Oregon, to the honorable the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, for the establishment of a territorial government tinder the pro- tection of the United States : Your memoiialists and petitioners, the representatives of the people of Oregon, for themselves, and in behalf of the citizens of the United States residing in this territory, would respectfully submit to the consideration of your honorable body some of the grievances under which we labor, and pray your favorable consideration of our petition for their remedies. Without dilating upon the grcuL importance of this terri- tory as an appen:lage to the federal Union, or consuming your valuable time in repeating to you the oft-repeated ac- count of our agricultural and commercial advantages, we would, with due deference, submit to your seiious consider- 23 -r.'-i m 854 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. ation our peculiar difficulties as occupants of this territory. As by treaty slipuliition:^ between the frovernments of tho United States and Great Britain, this territory has berome a kind of neutral ground, \n the occupancy of which the cit- izens of tlie United StJces and the subjects of Great Britain have equal rights, and, as your memorialists humbly con- ceive, ought to have equal j)rotcctii>n — such being the facts, the population of the territory, though promiscuously inter- Bpersed, is composed of the subjiicts of a crown and the cit- izens of a republic, between whom no common bond of union exists. It may naturally b<* supposed that, in the absence of any provision having been made by the two governments to pre- vent or settle any such occurrence, conflicting interests, aided by ancient prejudices, would speedily lead to results the most disastrous ; particularly when it is considered that this mixed population exists in the midst of numerous and Avar- liko tribes of ^ndians, to whom the smallest dissensions among the white inhabitants would be the signal to let loose upon their defenceless families all the horrors of savage warfare. To prevent a calamity so much to be dreaded, the well- disposed inhabitants of this territory have found it abso- lutely necessary to establish a pro\itional and temporary government, embracing all free male citizent;, and whose executive, legislative, and judicial powers should be equal to all the exigencies that may arise among themjielves, not pro- vided for by the governments to which they owe allegiance. And we are most happy to inform your honorable body, that, with but few individual exceptions, the utmost harmony iind good will have been the result of this, as we conceive, wise and judicious measure ; and the British subjects and TSN TBAR8 IN OREGOK. 355 irritory, of tho uerome the eit' , Btitaia )ly con- le facts, ly inter- the cit- of union ; of any 5 to pre- ts, aided ;uUs the that this nd war- jocusions let loose savage lie well- it abso- mporaiy d whose equal to not pro- Irgiance. le body, harmony conceive, ects and American citizens vie with each other in their obedience and respect to the laws, and in promoting the common good and general welfare of Oregon. Although such has been the result, thus far, of our tem- porary union of interests ; though we, the citizens of the United States, have had no cause to complain either of ex- actions or oppression at the hands of the subjects of Great Britain, but, on tho contrary, it is but just to say that their conduct towards us has been most friendly, liberal, and phi- lanthropic ; yet, we fear, a long continuance of the present state of things is not to be expected ; our temporary gov- ernment being limited in its efficiency, and crippled in its powers, by the paramount duty we owe to our respective governments ; our revenues being inadequate to its support ; and the almost total absence, apart from the Hudson's Bay Company, of the means of defence against the Indians, who, recent occurrences lead us to fear, entertain hostile feelings towards the people of the United States, Your memorialists would further inform your honorable body, that while the subjects of Great Britain, through the agency of the Hudson's Bay Company, are amply provided with all the munitions of war, and can afford, by means of their numerous fortifications, ample protection for themselves and their property, the citizens of the United States are scat- tered over a wide extent of territory, without a single place of refuge, and witliin themselves almost entirely destitute of every means of defence. Your memorialists would further crave your indulgence to remark, that Great Britain has, by extending her criminal code to this country, guaranteed to every British sub- ject claiming his birthright a legitimate trial by the laws of his country. We, as citizens of the United States, having t, J S50 TXK TEARS IN ORBOON. 1 I .' m I.:"".;.?- '. { '1 1. neither the military protection of our government, nor the extension to us of the civil laws of our country, are forced to the enactment and execution of laws which are not author- ized, and, for aught we know, never will be sanctioned by our government. Your memorialists would further call the attention of your lionorable body to the fact, that, as citizens of the United 4Btates, we labor under tiie greatest commercial disadvanta- ges; we have neither iil.ips of war nor of commerce, nor •ny navigation of the rivers of the interior ; and, for want of adequate protection, no private capitalist among us can establish a successful competition with a wealthy and pow- erful monopoly, possessing all the appliances of commerce, and all the influence over the natives, by an early establish- 4nent among them. We are, therefore, dependant for a mar- ♦ket for a large and increasing surplus, and for nearly all our supplies, upon a single company, which holds the market under its control. Your memorialists, with a view to remedy the grievances under which we labor, pray the national congress — To establish a distinct territorial government, to embrace Oregon and its adjacent seacoasts. We pray — For adequate means of protection from the numerous Indian tribes which surround us, for the purchase of territo- ries which they arf, willing to sell, and for agents, with au- ihority to regulate intercourse between whites and Indians, and between Indian tribes. That donations of land may be made according to the in- ducements held out to u- by the passage of a bill through the United States Senate, at the second session of the twenty- seventh congress, entitled, TEN TEARS IN OREGOK. 36). "A bill to authorize the adoption of measures for the oo- cupation and settlement of the territory of Oregon, for ea- tending certain portions of the laws of the United States over the same, and for other purposes." That navy yards and marine depots may be established on the river Columbia and upon Pugett's sound, and a naval force, adequate to our protection, be kept permanently in the adjacent seas. That a public mail be established to arrive and depart monthly from Oregon city and Independence, and such other local mail routes be established as are essential to the Willamette country and other settlements. We pray for the establishment of such commercial regu- lations as may enable us to trade in our own territory, at least on an equality with now resident foreigners. We pray that adequate military protection be given to emigrants coming to us, either by the establishment of posts upon the route, or by military escort. And we pray that, in the event you deem it inexpedient as a measure, or contrary to the spirit of existing treaties, to establish a territori il government in Oregon, you extend to us adequate military and naval protection, so as to place us at least on a par with other occupants of this country. For the granting of which your meraoriali«fcs will ever pray. OSBORNE RUSSELL, Executive. PETER G. STEWART, Executive. J. W. NESMITT, Judge of circuit court. M. M. McCARVER, Speaker. Members of the Legislative Committee. — Jesse Applegate, Medard G. Foisy, W. H. Gray, J. M. Garrison, Abijah Hen- %M *.■ '^ 858 TBN TEARS IN OllEOO K. H; ^ ^t4 ,,■ ii* ^ M ''^ '. ai'fcv-- '!■ 1 IB , !■■ drick, David Hill, 11. A. G. Lee, Burton Lee, John McCluro. Robert Newell, J. W. Smith.'lliicim Straight. Done at Oregon city, June 28, 1845. Attest, J. E. LONG, Clerk. U. S. Senate, May 21, 1846. Amended Organic Laws of the Territory of Oregon, cw adopt- ed by the people of that Territory on the last Saturday of July, 1846, with proposed amendments. The legislative committee recommended that the follow- hig laws be adopted : Article \. : Preamble. We the people of Oregon Territory, for pur- poses of mutual protection, and to secure peace and prosper- ity among ourselves, agree to adopt the following laws and regulations until such times as the United States of America extend their jurisdiction over us. Be it therefore enacted by the fice citizens of Oregon Territory, That the said territory, for the purpoi=;es of tem- porary government, be divided into not less than three nor more than five distiicts, subject to be extended to a greater number when an increase of population shall require. For the purpose of fixing the principles of civil ap-d reli- gious liberty as iKe basis of all laws and constitutions of government that may hercufter be adopted. Be it enacted. That the following articles be considered articles of compact among the free ciiizens of this territory : Skction 1. No person demeaning himself in a peaceable or orderly manner shall ever be molested upon account of his mode of worship or religious sentiments. 8bo. 2. The inhabitants of said territory shall always be TBN TKATIS IN ORKOON. 359 entitled to the benefits of tlie writ of liabcus corpus nnd triiil by jury; of ii proportionate rcprescntiUion of the people in the legislature, and of judicial proceedings according to tlio course of common law : all persons sliall be bailable, unless for capital offences, where the proof shall be evident, or the presumption great : all fines shall be moderate, and no cruel or unusual puni>hments inflicted : no man shall be deprived of his libeity but by the judgement of his peers, or the law of the land ; and, should the public exigencies malic it ne- cessary for the common preservation to take any person's property, or to demand his particular services, full compen- sation shall be made for the same; and, in the just preser- vation of rights and property, it is understood and declared that no law ought ever to be made or have force in said ter- ritory t])at shall, in any manner whatever, interfere with or afTect private contracts or engagements, "bona fide" and without fraud previously formed. Sec. 3. Religion, morality, and knowledge being neces- eary to good government and the happiness of mankind, scliools and tlie means of education shall forever be encour- aged. The utmost good faith shall always be observed to- waids the Indians ; their lands and property shall never be taken from them without their consent, and in their property, rights, and liberty they shall never be invaded or disturbed, unless in just and lawful wars, authorized by the represen- tatives of the people ; but laws, founded in justice and hu- manit}', sliall, from time, be made for preventing injustice being done to them, and for preserving peace and friendship witli them. Sec. 4. There shall be neither slavery nor involun- tary servitude in said teriitory, otherwise than for the pua- ■r 4, ■'tr ■, .1 vV. 860 TKN YKARa IN OREOOW. isliment of crinr.es whereof the party shall have been duly convicted. Si:c. 5. No person shall be deprived of the right of bear- ing arms in his own defence; no unreasonable searches or seizures shall be granted ; the freedom of the press shall not be restrained ; no person shall be twice tried for the same offence ; nor the people be deprived of the right of peacea- bly assembling and discusp'ng any matter they may think proper ; nor shall the right of petition ever be denied. Sec. 0. The powers of the government shall be divided into three distinct departments: the legislative, executive, and judicial; and no person or persons belonging to one of these departments shall exercise any of the powers properly belonging to either of the others, except in cases herein di- rected or permitted. Article IT. iSPI' ^ R^ \''±^< • i'iiiji '• iW 'l^H W^^K ' ; ?' ; ^^^H . ^ ts^^^H liH 0,t >^^^^^s ,-^;' «.\C^*- .. 1 I . ■! '\ '-;. ■ ''\'^ ' ' ..■■' < 1 ■i.' Skction 1. The legislative power shall be vested in a house of representatives, which shall consist of not less than thirteen, nor more than sixty-one members, whose numbers shall not be increased more than five at any one session, to be elected by the qualified electors at the annual election, giving to each district a representation in the ratio of its pop- ulation — excluding Indians ; and the said members shall re- side in the district for which they shall be chosen ; and in case of vacancy by death, resignation, or otherwise, the ex- ecutive shall issue his writ to the district where sucli vacan- cy has occurred, and cause a new election to be held, giving sufficient notice at least ten days previously of the time and place of holding said election. Sec. 2. The house of representatives, when assembled, 1 >' I ;■ TEN YBAR8 IN ORRUON. 301 friving shall choose a spealicr and its officors ; be judges of the quiilificjitions and election of its momhcrs, and Kit, upon its own adjournment, from day to day. Two- thirds of the house shall constitute a (jiiorum to transact business ; but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may be aufhorized by law to compel the attendance of its absent members. Skc. 3. The house may determine the rules of its pro- ceedings, punish its members for disorderly behavior, and, with the concurrence of two-thirds expel .' member, but not a second time for the same offence ; and shall have all pow- ers necessary for a legislature of a temporary government, not in contravention with the restrictions imposed in this or- ganic law. Sec. 4. The house of representatives shall from time to time fix the salaries of the different officers appointed or elected under this compact, provided the pay of no officer shall be altered during the term of his service ; nor shall the pay of the house be increased by any law taking effect dur- ing the session at which such alterations are made. Src. 5. The house of representatives shall have the sole power of impeaching; three-fourths of all the members must concur in an impeachment ; the governor and all civil ofH- cers under these articles of compact shall be liable to im- peachment for treason, bribery, or any high crime or misde- meanor in office. Judcrement in such cases shall not extend further than removal from office, and disqualification to hold any office of honor, trust, or profit, under this compact ; but the party convicted may be dea't with according to law. Skc. 6. The house of representatives shall have power to lay out the territory into suitable districts, and apportion .,1 802 •raw YEAnS IN OREGON. IP-- ?^i-"J m '■>:%■-■ t .■ '.' M ■ Jr. I the rp presentation in tlicir own body ; tlicy blmll have power to pass laws for raising a revenue, either by the levying and collecting of tixes, or the imposing license on merchandise, ferries or other objects ; to open roads and canals, either by the levying a road tax or tbe chartering of companies ; to regula'e the intercourse of the people with the Indian tribes; to establish post offices and post roads ; to declare war, sup- press insurrection, or repel invasion ; to provide for the or- ganizing, arming, and disciplining the militia, and for calling forth tlie militia to execute the laws of Oregon ; to pass laws to regulate the introduction, manufacture, or sale of ardent spirits ; to regulate tbe currency and internal poKu^y of the country ; to create inferior tiibunals and inferior ofticers, ne- cessary, and not provided for by these articles of compact; and, generally, to pass such laws to promote the general welfare of the p(!ople of Oregon, not contrary to the spirit of this instrument ; and all powers not hereby expressly del- egated to remain with the people. The house of repiesentatives shall convene annually on the 6rst Tuesday in December, at such place as may be provided by law, and shall, upon their firtit meeting after the adoption of this instrument of compact, proceed to elect and define the duties of a secretary, recorder, treasurer, auditor, mar- shal, or other ofTicero necessary to carry into effect the pro- visions of this compact. Skc. 7. The executive power shall be vested in one per- son, {elected by the qualified voters at the annual election, who shall have power to fill vacancies, to remit firies and for- feitures, to grant par 'ons and reprieves for offences against the laws of the territory, to call out the military force of the territory, to repel invasion or suppress insurrection, to take care that the laws are faithfully executed, and to recommend f ; TKNYEAKB IN OilKOON. 303 •uch laws ns he in;iy consider necessary to i\\o. ropivscnta- tivcs of the people for tla-ir action. Every bill whii^li shall have been passed by the house of representatives shall, be- fore it becomes a law, be presented to the governor for hia approbation. If he aj)prove, he shall sign it ; if not, ho shall return it, with his objections, to the house, and the house shall cause the objections to be entered at lari^c; on its journals, and .shall proceed to reconsider tlu; bill ; if, after Buch consideration, a majority of two thirds of tlie houso shall agree to pass the same, it shall become a law ; in such cases the vote shall be taken by ayes and noes, and be en- tered upon ihe journals. If any bill shall not be returned by the governor to the house of representatives within three days — Sundays excepted — after it shall have been presented to hi n, the same shall become a law in like manner as if the governor had signed it, unless the hou.se of representatives, by its adjournment, shall prevent its return, in which case it shall not become a law. The governor shall continue in oITice two years, and until his successor is duly elected and qualified ; and in case of the office becoming va- cant by death, resignation or otherwise, the secretary shall exejcise the duties of the office until the vacancy shall he filled by election. The governor shall receive the sum of per annum, as full compensation for his services, which sum may be increased or diminished at any time, by law : Provi- ded, the salary of no governor shall be altered during hia term of service. The governor shall have power to convene the legislature on extraordinary occasions. Skc. 8. The judicial power shall be vested in a supreme ...~i' V ;i'll ^'«'- P'J. ;* »"'*' 864 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. court, and such inferior courts of law, equity, and arbitra- tion, as may b} law from time to time be established. The supreme court shall consist of one judge, who shall be elected by the house of representatives, and hold his of- jSce for four years, and until his successor is duly elected and qualified. The supreme court, except in cases otherwise directed by this compact, shall have appellate jurisdiction only, which shall be co-extensive with this territory, and shall hold two sessions annually, beginning on the first Mondays in June and September, and at such places as b}' law directed. The supreme court shall have a general superintending control over all inferior courts of law. It sliall have power to issue writs of habeas corpus, mandamus, quo warranto, cer- tiorari, and other original and remedial writs, and hear and determine the same. The supreme court shall have power to decide upon and annul any laws contrary to the provisions of tliese arti- cles of compact; and whenever called upon by the house of representatives, the supreme judge shall give his opinion touching the validity of any pending measure. The house of representatives m;iy hereafter provide by law for the supreme court having original jurisdiction in criminal cases. Sec. 9. All officers under this compact shall take an oath as follows, to- wit : I do solemnly swear that I will support the organic laws of the provisional government of Oregon, so far as said or- ganic laws are consistent with my duties os a citizen of the United States, or a subject of Great Britain, and faithfully demean myself in office. So help me God. &EC. 10. Every free male descendant of a white man, TBN YEARS IN OREOOK. 36!> 1 arbitra- id. who shall •Id his of- ected and rocted by ly, which hold two s in June st-rd. •intending power to an to, cer- hear and upon and hesc arti- ; house of s opinion •ovide by iiction in take an anic laws said or- n of the faithfully inhabitant of this tenitory, of the age of twenty-one ^ ears and upwards, who shall have been an inhabitant of this ler- ritory at the time of its organization, shall be entiLled to vote at the election of officers, civil and military, and be eli- gible to any office in the tenitory: Provided, that all per- sons of the description entitled to vote by the provisions of this section, who shall emigrate to this territory after organi- zation, shall be entitled to the rights of citizens after having resided six months in the territory. Sec. 11. The election for all civil officers provided for by this compact, shall be he'd the first Monday in June an- nually. ARTICLIi: III. Land Law. Section 1. Any person now holding, or hereafter wish- ing to establish a claim to land in this territory, shall desig- nate the extent of his claim by natural boundaries or by marks at the corners and upon the lines of such cl .im, and have the extent and boundaries of said claim recorded in iho office of the territorial recorder, in a book to be kept by him for th»it purpose, within twenty days from the time of mark- ing said claim: Provided, that those who sIilU be already in possession of lands shall be allowed twelve mouths from the passage of this act to tile a description of his claim in the recoi dcr'j office : And provided fui ther, that the said claim- ant shall state in his record the i^ize, shape, and locality of such claim, and give the names of the adjoining claimants; and the recorder may require the applicant for such record to be made to answer, on his oath, touching tlie fact«. Sii:c. 2. All clai aants shall within six months from the lite man, 366 TEN TEARS IN 0H£O0N. I;;!.' m m Ir-. i lime of recording their claims, make permanent improve- ments upon the same by building or enclosing, and also be- come an occupant upon said claim within one year from the date of such record, or, in case not occupied, the person holding said claim shall pay into the treasury the sum of five dollars annually, and in case of failure to occupy, or on failure uf payment of the sum above stated, the claim shall be consideied as abandoned : Provided, that no non-resi- dent of this territory shall have the benefit of this law : And provided further, that any resident of this territory, absent on private business for two years, may hold his claim by paying five dollars annually to the treasury, Siio. 3. No individual shall be rdlowed to hold a claim of more than one square mile, or six hundred and forty acres, in a square or oblong form, according to the natural situa tion of the premises; nor shall any individual be allowed to hold more than one claim at the same time. Any person complying with the provision of these ordinances shall be entitled to tlic same recourse against trespass as in other ca Bes by law provided. Skc. 4. Partnerships of two or more persons shall, be allowed to take up a tract of land not exceeding six himdred and forty acies to each person in said partnership, subject to all the provisions of this law. And whenever such partner- ship is dissolved, the members shall record the particular parts of said tracts as may be allotted to him : Provided, that no member of said partnership shall hold a separate chiim at the time of the existence of said partnersliip, Skc. 5. The boundary cf lines of all claims shall here- after conform as near as ma}* be to the cardinal points. Siic. G. The officers elected at the general election held on the first Tuesday in June, 1845, shall be the officers to.ict '»■! TEN YEARS IN ORKOON. 367 improve- d also be r from the Lhe person le sum of 11 py, or on [;]aim shall ) non-resi- law: And Dry, absent i claim bj 1 a claim of orty acres, tural situa allowed to ^ny person es shall be n other ca ns shiA\ be ix hundred , subject to ch partner- particular Provided, a separate •ship. shall berC' oints. ection held Vircrs to act under this organic law, and their official acts, so far as they are ia accoi dance with this compact, are hereby declared valid and legal. Siio. Y. Amendments to this instrument may be propo- sed by the house of representatives, two-thirds of ihe mem- bers concurring theiin ; v.hich amendments shall be made public in aU parts of Oicgon, and be read at the polls at the rext succeeding general election ; and a concurrence of two- thirds of all the members at said election, niny pass s;dd amendments, and they sh;ill become a part of this compact. Oregon City, July 5, 1845. A true copy of the original. M. M. McCAIlVER. Attest : J. E. Long, Secretary, Adopted by the people at a general election held in Ore- gon, the last Saturday in July, A. D. 1845. Attest: J. E. LONG, Secretary. Done hj the House of Ileprcsoitati'ics of Oregon Territory ^ this Wthday of Auf/ust, 1845. Whereas the adoption by tlie jin^ple of this tcnitory of the amended organic laws of Oregon was an act of necessity rather than of choice, and was i^: tended to give to the peo- ple the protection which, of light, should be extended to them by tlieir governn-unt, and not as an r.ct in detiance or disregard of th^ authoiily or laws of the United Slate.*?. Therefore, ile.-olved, Is'u. Tliat, in the opinion of this house, the con^jress of the United States, in establishing u territorial i 1 III 11 1 • 1 } $ V ii* t ; ■.,■' i> , 8 < • ■ i' * ■ ' \ 368 TEN YEARS IN OREGON government in Oregon, should legalize the acts of the peo- ple of this territory, so far us they are in accordance with the constitution of the United States. 2d. That Dr. Elijah White, sub-Indian agent of this Ter- ritory, be requested to present u copy of tiie amended or- ganic laws of Oregon to tlie congress of the United States. 3d. That the.se resolutions be endorsed upon said copy, with the vole of the house adopting the same. On the adoption of the above resolution, the vote v,f the house was unanimous. M.M. McCARVER, Speaker. Attest: J. E, Long, Clerk. I am sure I shall be excused in introducing some addi- tional matter relating to the Indians, and some of their stri- king peculiarities ; and before giving Dr. While's views of the causes of the late disturbances in Oregon leading to Vae late horrible massacre and present war, I beg leave to pre- sent a few passages from Mr. Farnham's travels west of the Rocky Mountains, and also from Mr. Lee and Frost's work on Oregon. Mr F. gives the following interesting accoimt of a re- markable personage wi'.n whom he met in the wilds of the west: "One of these trapp«?rs was from New Hampshire; he had been educated at Dartmouth college, and was, altogeth- er, one of the most remarkable men I ever knew. A splen- did gentleman, a finished scholar, a critic on English and Roman literature, a politician, a trapper, an Indian! His fetature was something more than six feet ; his shoulders an'^ chest were broad, and his arms and lower limbs well forujod TEN YEARS IN OREGOIV. 369 the pco- B with the tliis Tor- 2nded or- (1 States. aid copy, jte v-f the speaker. ome add!- ' their stii- i views of ling to the Lve to pre- vest cf the ost's work it of a re- ds of the pshire : he , altogeth- A splen- nglish and Jian! Hia ) aiders iiv'\ ■veil foruMid .(.nd very mui«cular. His foreh' ..as high and expansive ; Causality, Comparison, Eventuality, and all the perceptive organs, to u o a phrenological description, remarkably large ; Locality was, however, larger than any other organ in tlvj fiontal region ; Benevolence, Wond(!r, Ideality, Secrctl^ '"> ness, Dcstructiveness and Adhesiveness, Combativeness, Se/f- Esteem and Hope were very liigh. The remaining organs were low. His head was clothed with hair as black v i jet, two and a half feet in length, smoothl}- combed and hanging down his back. He was dressed in a deer skin frocV, leg- gins and moccasins ; not a shred of cloth about his lerson. On my first interview vyith him, he addjcssed me with the stiff, cold formality of one conscious of his own importance ; and, in a manner that he thought unobserved, scrutinized the movement of every muscle of my face and every word that I uttered. And when any thing was said of political events in the states or Europe, he gave silent and intense attention. I left him without any very good impressions of his charac- ter ; for I had induced him to open his compressed mouth but once, and then to make the no very agreeable enquiries — ' When do you start ? ' and ' What route do you take ?' At my second interview, he was more familiar. Having as- certained that he was proud of his learning, I approached him through that medium. lie seemed pleased at this com- pliment to his superiority over those around him, and at once became easy and talkative. His ' Alma Mater' was described and redescribed ; all the fields and walks and riv- ulets, the beautiful Connecticut, the evergreen primitive ridges lying along its banks, which, he said, 'had smiled for a thousand ages on the march of decay ;' were successive themes of his gigantic ima'■ cncc sees, together wiLli all that liis capacious intellect, in structed and imbued with tlie wild fancying;; and legends of his race, could see. I encjuired the reason of his lea\ing civilized life for a precarious liveiiliood in the wilderness. ' For reasons found in tlie nature (jf my race,' he replied. ' The Indian's eye cannot be satisfied witli a description of things, how beautiful soever may be the style, or the har- monies of verse in which it is conveyed. For neiiher the periods of burning eloquence, nor the mighty and beautiful creations of the imagination, can unbosom the mighty reali- ties as they live in their owv i-^ative magnificence on the eter- nal mountains, and in the secret, untrodden vale. As soon as you thrust the plowshare under the earth, it teems with worms and useless weeds. It increases popula- tion to an unnatural extent — creates tlxC necessity of penal enactments — builds the jail — erects the gallows — spreads over the human face a mask of dei^eption and selfishness — and svibstitutes villany, love of wealth, and power, and the slaugtcr of millions for the gratification of some royal cut- throat, in the place of the single minded honesty, the hospi- tality, the honor and purity of the natural state. Hence, wherever agriculture appears, the increase of moral and physical wretchedness induces the thousands of necessities, as they arc termed, for abridging human liberty ; for fetter- ing down the mind to the principles of right, derived, not from nature, but from a restrained and forced condition of existence. And hence my race, with mental and physical habits as free as the waters that flow from the hills, become restiti' under ihe rules of civilized life ; dwindle to their graves under the control of laws, and customs, and forms, which have grown out of the endless vices, and the facti tious virtues of another race. Red men often acquire and TKN YEAnS IN OKEQOK. 371 licet, iti igcndrf of ^ Icavini; ilderncs.':. replied, iption of llio h:ir iihor tlio bciiutiful Illy reali I the eter- 1 cartli, it !S popula- ' of penal — spread!^ isliness — . and the •oyal cut- lie hospi- Ilence, noral and iccessities, for fetter- rived, not ndition of 1 physical s, become e. to their nd forms, the facti quire and love the sciences. But witli the natuio whi;:h the Great Spirit has given them, what are all their trutlis to them ? Would an Indina ever moasun^ the heii^ht of a mountain that he could climb ? No, never. 'V\\v. legends of his tribe tdl him notliing about (juadrants, and base lines and angles. Their old br;;vcs, hova-vor, have for ages vvatched from the clids the green life in the spring, and the yellow death in the autumn, of their holy forests. Why .should he ever cal- culate an echpse? lie always lols into which they had plunged when the (|uick trap had seized them ; and stringing them two and two together over his pack-horse, bore them to his camp ; and wilh his long side-knife stiipped of the skins of fur; pinned tliem to the ground to dry, and in his camp kettle cooked the much-j)ii/.ed tails for his mid-day repast. ' Was it not a fine hunt that ?' said he, ' beaver as tliick as mosquitoes, trout as f)lenty as water.' ' But the un- godly Blackfeel !' The sun had thrown a few bright rays upon the lim of the eastern firmament, when the Blackfeet war-whoop rang around his tent — a diieful ' whoop-ali- hooh,' ending wilh a yell, piercing harsh and shiill, through the clenched !eeth. He had but one nu;ans of escape — the lake. Into it he plunged beneath a showei' of poisoned ar- rows — plunged dicply — and swam under while he could en- dure the absence of air ; he ruse ; he was iu the midst of his foes swimming and shouting around him ; down again ; up to breathe ; and on he swam with long and powerful sweeps. The pursuit was long; but at last our man entered the chasm he hisd expluied, plunged along the cascade as near as he dared, clung to a shrub tliat grew from the crev- ice of the rock, and lay under w^atcr for the approach of his IS*."!' : . TKN YEARS IN OUKtiON. 375 siiig cur- llie (ItiL'p ; accord- e j)r<)jt!ct- )cks, into tlic mist, an undis- nibiies for awliile in ccks, did they had stiiii<;ini' ore them }d of the lid in liis mid -day beaver as ut the un- iglit rays Bhickfeet •hoop-all- , through ;apc — the soned ar- could en- mid si of \n Jigaiu ; powerful n entered Kscade as the c rev- el 1 of his pursuers. On they canus they passid, they sliricked, and plunged for ever into the abyss (jf mist." * >k * * * ♦ * "The trials of a journey to the western wilderness can never be detailed in words. To be understood, they must be endured. Their elTeets upon the physical and m( iilal system are equally prostrating. The desolation of oin- kind and another which meets the eye every where; the sense of vastness associated with dearth and barrenness, and of sub- limity connected with eternal, killing frosts ; and of loneli- ness c nervous system, and through the whole animal and mental economy a feebleness and irritability altogether indescribable. lUil, at Fort David Crockett there were rest, and food, juid safety; and old Father Time, as he mowed away the passing mo- ments and gathered them into the great garner of the Past, cast upon the Future a few blossoms of hope, and .-.weetened the hours now and then with a bit of information about this portion of his ancient dominion. I heaid from vaiious per- sons, more or less ac(piainted with tlie Colorado of the West, a confirmation of the account of that river given in the journals of previous days ; and also that there resides at the lower end of its great kenyon a band of the Clul> Indi- ans — very many of whom are seven feet in height, and well proportioned ; that these Indians laise large quantities of black beans upon the sandy intervals on the stream ; that ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1^ m m !ff ^ 12.2 m m :^ 1^ 12.0 IL25 i 1.4 1.6 ^^ <^ ^ /a ^>. o 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation V? V/1:ST MAIN STREET V.EBSTER,N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V 376 TEN YKARfl IN ORKGOK. i .;.i '■m the oval-leaf prickly-pear grows there from fifteen to twenty feet in height ; that these Indians make molasses from its fruit ; that their principal weapon of warfare is the club, which they wield with amazing dexterity and force ; that thoy inhabit a wide extent of country north-west and south- east of the lower part of this river ; that they have never been subdued by the Spaniards, and are inimical to all white people. Subsequent inquiry in California satisfied me that this river is navigable only thirty or fcrty miles from its mouth, and that the Indians who live upon its barren banks near the Gulf are such as I have descrbed. The Snakes, or Shoshonies, are a wandering tribe of Indi- ans who inhabit that part of the Rocky Mountains whicL lies on the Grand and Green river branches of the Colorado of the West, the valley of Great Bear river, the habitable shores of the Great Salt Lake, a considerable portion of country on Snake river above and below Fort Hall, and a tract extending two or three hundred miles to the west of that post. Those who reside in the place last named, are said to subsist principally on roots ; they however kill a few deer, and clothe themselves on their skins. The band livin^ on Snake river subsist on the fish of the stream, buffalo, deer, and other game. Those residing on the branches of the Colorado live on roots, buffalo, elk, deer, the mountain sheep, and antelope. The Snakes own many horses. These, with their thousands of dogs, constitute all the domestic animals among them. They have conical skin-lodges, a few camp- kettles, butcher-knives and guns. Many of them, however, still use the bow and arrow. In dress, thev follow the uni- versal Indian costume — moccasins, leggings, and the hunt- ing-shirt. Nothing but the hair covers the head ; and this, indeed, would seem sufficient, if certain statements made in TKW YEARS IN ORKGOIT. S11 relation to it were true ; as that it frequently grows four and five feet in length, and in one case eleven feet. In these instances, it is braided and wound around the head in the form of a Turkish turban. If only two or three feet in length, it is braided on the female head in two queues, which hang down the back : on the male it is only combed behind the ears, and lays dishevelled around the shoulders. The female dress differs from that of the male in no other respect than this : the shirt or chemise of the former extends down to the feet. Beaver, otter, bear and buffalo skins, and horses are exchanged by them with the Arrapahoes, and the American and British traders, for some few articles of wear- ing apparel ; such as woolen blankets and hats. But as their stock of skins is always very limited, they find it necessary to husband it with much care to obtain therewith a supply of tobacco, arms, and ammunition. From the first acquaintance of the whites with them, these people have been remarkable for their aversion to war, and those cruelties so generally practiced by their race. If permitted to live in peace among their mountains, and al- lowed to hunt the buffalo — that \ andering patrimony of all the tribes — where necessity requires, they make war upon none, and turn none away hungry from their humble abodes. But these peaceai)le dispositions in the wilderness, where men are left to the protection of their impulses and physical energies, have yielded them little protection. The Black- feet, Crows, Sioux, and Eutaws have alternately fought them for the better right to the Old Park, and portions of their territory, with varied success ; and, at the present time, do those tribes yearly send predatory parties into their bor- ders to rob them of their horses. But as the passes through which they enter the Snake country are becoming more and 378 TKN YEARS IN OREGON. fl more destitute of game on which to subsist, their visits arc less frequent, and their number less formidable. So that, for several }ears, they have been in a great measiire relieved from these annoyances. From the time they met Lewis and Clark on the head- waters of the Missouri to the present day, the Snakes have opened their lodges tc whites, with the most friendly feel- ings. And many are the citizens of the States, and tlie sub- jects of Britain, who have sought their villages, and by their hospitality been saved from death among those awful soli- tudes. A guest among them is a sacred deposite of the Great Spirit. Ilis property, when once arrived within their camp, is under the protection of their honor and religious piinciple. And should want, cupidity, or any other motive, tempt any individual to disregard these laws of hospitality, the p^o]^erty which may have been stolen, or its equivalent, is retutried, and the offender punished. The Snakes are a very intelligent race. This appears in the comforts of their homes, their well-constructed lodges, the elegance and useful form of their wardrobe, their horse-gear, etc. But more es- pecially does it exhibit itself in their views of sensual ex- cesses and other immoralities. These are inhiliited by im- memorial usaLjes of the tiibe. Nor dcs their code of customs operate upon those wrong doings only which originate among a savage people. Whatever indecency is oftered them by their intercourse with the whites, they avoid. Civilized vice is quite as offensive as that which grows up in their own untrained natures. The non-use cf intoxicalinu liquor is an example of this kind. They abjured it from the commencement of its introduction among them. And they give the best of reasons for this custom : — 'It unmans us for the hunt, and for defending ourselves against our enemies ; ■ ■■ r, .V t M;.i- It*!'' TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 379 isits arc So that, relieved le bead- les have dly feei- iVie sub- [ by their vful sob- te of the thin their rebfjioas r motive, jspitabty, |uivalcnt, [es arc a 5 of tlicir md useful , more es- nsual ex- cd by im- code of ly which cccncy is loy avoid, ows up in toxicaling t from the And they lans VIS for ■ enemies; it causes unnatural dissensions amontj ourselves : it makes the Chief less tlian his Indian ; and by its use, imbecility and ruin would come upon the Shoshonie nation.* What- ever diflferencc of opinion may exist among civilized men on this matter, these Indians certainly reason well for them- selves, and, I am inclined to think, for all others. A voice from the depths of the mountains — from the lips of a sav- age — send to our ears the startling rebuke — 'Make not, vend not, give not to us the strong water. It prostrates your superior knowledge — your enlarged capacities for hap- piness — your cultivated understandings. It breaks your .'= .'ong laws ; it rots down your strong houses ; it buries you in the filthiest ditch of sin. Send it not to us ; we would rather die by the arrows of the Blackfeet.' The Crows are a wandering tribe that is usually found in the upper plains around the head waters of the north fork of Great Platte, Snake, and Yellowstone rivers. Their num- ber is estimated to be about five thousand. They are repre- sented as the most arrant rascals among the mountains. The traders say of them that * thoy have never been known to keep a promise or do an honorable act.' No white man o^ Indian trusts them. Murder and robbery arc their prin- cipal employments. Much of their country is well watered, timbered, and capable of yielding an abundant reward to the iuisbandman. The Blackfeet Indians reside on the Marias and other branches of the Missouri above the Great Falls. In 1828 they numbered about two thousand five hundred lodgers or families. During that year, they stole a blanket from the American Fur Company's steamboat on the Yellowstone, which had belonged to a man who had died of the small- pox on the passage up the Missouri. The inffotcd article 380 TEH TEARS IN ORKOOIT. i. . m-:.. , 1 Hfl^,j': being carried to their encampment on the ' left hand fork of the Missouri,' spread the dreadful infection among the whole tribe. They were amazed at the appearance of the disease. The red blotch, the bile, congestion of the lungs, liver, and brain, were all new to their medicin-men ; and the rotten corpse falling in pieces while they buried it, struck horror into every heart. In their phrenzy and ignorance they in- creased the number of their sweat ovens upon the banks of the stream, and whether the burning fever or want of ner- vous action prevailed ; whether frantic with pain, or totter- ing in death, they were placed in them, sweated profusely and plunged into the snowy waters of the river. The mor- tality which followed this treatment was a parallel to the plague in London. They endeavored for a time to bury the dead, but these were soon more numerous than the living. The evil-minded medicin-men of all ages had come in a body from the world of spirits, had entered into them, and were working the annihilation of the Blackfoot race. The Great Spirit also had placed the floods of his displeasure between himself and them ; He had cast a mist over the eyes of their eonjurors, that they might not know the remedial incantation. Their hunts were ended ; their bows were broken ; the fire in the Great Pipe was extinguished forever ; their graves called for them ; and the call was now answered by a thou- sand dying groans. Mad with superstition and fear, brother forsook sister ; father his son ; and mother her sucking child ; and fled to the elevated vales among the western heights, where the influences of the climate, operating upon the al- ready well-spent energies of the disease, restored the remain- der of the tribe again to health. Of the two thousand five hundred families existing at the time the pestilence com- menced, one or more members of eight hundred only sur- TXIf YE AHA IK OREGON. 381 vived its ravages. And even to this hour do the bones of aeven thousand or eight thousand Blackfeet lie unburied among the decaying lodges of their deserted viUage, on the banks of the Yellowstone. But this infliction has in no wise humanized their blood-thirsty nature. As ever before, they wage exterminating war upon the traders and trappers, and the Oregon Indians. The Arrapahoes reside south of the Snakes. They wan- der in the winter season over the country about the head of the Great Kenyon of the Colorado of the west, and to a con- siderable distance down that river ; and in summer hunt the buffalo in the New Park, or ' Bull Pen,' in the ' Old Park,' on Grand river, and in ' Bayou Salade, on the south fork of the Platte. Their number is not well ascertained. Some es- timate it at three thousand, others more, and others still less. They are said to be a brave — fearless, thrifty, ingenious, and hospitable people. They own large numbers of horees, mules, dogs, and sheep. The dogs they fatten and eat. Hence the name Arrapahoes — dog eaters. They manufac- ture the wool of their sheep into blankets of a very supe- rior quality. I saw many of them ; possessed one ; and be- lieve them to be made with something ra the form of a dar- ning-needle. They appeared to be wrought, in the first place, like a fishing-net ; and on this, as a foundation, darned so densely that the rain will not penetrate them. They are usually striped or checked with yellow and red. There is in this tribe a very curious law of naturalization ; it is based upon property. Any one, whether red or white, may avail himself of it. Oiie horse, which can run with sufficient speed to overtake a buffalo cow, and another horse or mule, capable of bearing a pack of two hundred pounds, must be possessed by the applicant. 882 TEN TEARS IK OREGON. These being delivered to tlic principal oliief of the tribe, and his intentions being made known, he is declared a citi- zen of the Arrapahoe tribe, and entitled to a wife and o;her high privileges thereunto appertaijiing. Thus recognized, he enters upon a life of savage independence. His wife takes care of his horses, manufactures his saddles and bri- dles, and leash ropes and whips, his mofcasins, leggins, and hunling-shiits, from leather and other materials prepared by her own hands ; beats with a wooden adze his buffalo robes, till they arc soft and pleasant for his couch ; tans hides for his tent covering, and drags from the distant hills the clean white-pine poles to support it ; cooks his daily food and pla- ces it before him. And should sickness overtake him, and death rap at the door of his lodge, his squaw watches kindly the last yearnings of the departing spirit. His sole duty, as her lord in life, and as a citizen of the Arrapahoe tribe, is to ride the horse which she saddles and brings to his tent, kill the game which she drc; «es and cures ; sit and slumber on the couch which she spreads ; and fight the enemies of the tribe. Their language is said to be essentially the same as that spoken by the Snakes and Cumanches. This, and other tribes in the mountains, and in the upper plains, have a custom, the same in its objects as was the cer- emony of the ' toga virilis' among the Romans. "When ri- pened into manhood, every young man of the tribes is ex- pected to do some act of bravery that will give promise of his disposition and ability to defend the rights of his tribe and family. Nor can this expectation be disregarded. So, in the spring of the year, those of the age alluded to, asso- ciate themselves forty or fifty in a band, and devote them- selves to the duties of man's estate in the following man- ner : They take leave of their friends, and depart to some It VI TBN YEARB IN ORKGON. 388 Bocrpt place near tlio Avoodlnnds ; collect polos twenty or thirty foot in length, and raise thorn in the form of a cone ; and cover the structure so thickly with leaves and boughs as to secure the interior from the gaze of persons outside. They then hang a fresh bufTalo head inside, — near the top of the lodge where the poles meet ; and below this, around the sides, suspend camp-keltles, scalps, and blankets, and the skin of a white buffalo, as oCferings to the Croat Spirit. After the lodge is thus arranged, they enter it with much solemnity, and commence the ceremonies which are to con- secrate themselves to Tvar, and the destruction of their own eni'mies, and those of the tribe. The first act, is to seat themselves in a circle around a fire built in the centre of the lodge, and 'make medicin;' that is, — invoke the presence and aid of protecting spirits, by smoking the Great Mystic Pipe. One of their number fill ■. it with tobacco and herbs, places upon the bowl a bright coal from the fire within the lodge, draws the smoke into his lungs, and blows it hence through his nostrils. He then seizes the stem with both hands, and leaning forward, touclies the ground between his feet with the lower part of the bowl, and smokes again as before. The feet, and arms, and breast, are successively touched in a similar way ; and after each touching, the sa- cred smoke is inhaled^as before. The pipe is then passed to the one on his right, who smokes as his fellow had done. And thus the great pipe goes round, and the smoke rises and mingles with the votive offerings to the Great Spirit that are suspended above their heads. Immediately after this smo- king, is believed *.o be a favored time for oHTering prayer to the Great Spirit. They pray for courage, and victory over their foes in the campaign they are about to undertake ; and that they may be prote9ted from the spirits of evil minded 384 TKN TSARS IN OREUOK. ■3 '■ 'So''''-"! If M mcdicin-men. They then make an irrevocable vow, tlia these mcdicin-men do not make them sick — do not enter into their bosoms and destroy their strength and courage, they will never again see their relatives and tribe, unless they do so in garments stained with the blood of their ene- mies. II ing passed through these ceremonies, they rise and dance < the music of war chants, till they are exhausted and swo . In this state of insensibility, they imagine that the spirits >f the brave dead visit them and teach them their duty, and inform them of the events that will transpire du- ring the campaign. Three days and nights are passed in performing those ceremonies ; during which time, they neither eat nor drink, nor leave the lodge. At early dawn of the fourth day they select a leader from their number, appoint a distant place of meeting ; and emerging from the lodge, ^ach walks away from it alone to the place of rendezvous laving arrived there, they determine whose horses are to be stolen, whose scalps taken; and commence their march. They always go out on foot, wholly dependent upon their own energies for food and every other necessary. Among other things it is considered a great disgrace to be long with- out meat and the means of riding. It sometimes happens that these paries are unable to sat- isfy the conditions of their consecration during the first sea- son ; and therefore are compelled to resort to some ingenious and satisfactory evasion of the obligation of their vow, or to go into winter quarters till another opening spring allows them to prosecute their designs. The trappers relate a case of this kind, which led to a curious incident. A war party of Blackfeet had spent the season in seeking for their ene- mies without success. The storms of approaching winter i;i TIM TEARS IN ORKOON. 385 tha it enter ourage, unless leir ene- •isc and h? listed inc that em their pire du- assed in r neither n of the appoint e lodge, dezvous are to be march. >on their Among )ng with- ►le to sat- first sea- ingenious, ow, or to ig allows ite a case var party their ene- ig winter had begun to howl around, and a wish to return to the log fires and buffalo meat, and hilarities and friendships of the camp of the tribe in the high vales of Upper Missouri, had become ardent, when a forlorn, solitary trapper, who had long resided among them, entered their camp. Affectionate and sincere greetings passed at the moment of meeting. The trapper, as is the custom, was invited to eat ; and all ap- peared friendly and glad. But soon the Indians became reserved, and whispered ominously among themselves. At length came to the ear of the trapper high words of debate in regard to his life. They all agreed that his white skin in- dubitably indicated that he belonged to the great tribe of their natural enemies, and that with the blood of a white upon their garments, they would have fulBlled the terms of their vow, and could return to their friends and tribe. But a part of them seriously questioned whether the sacred names of friend and brother, which they had for years applied to him, had not so changed his natural relationship to them« that the Great Spirit, to whom they had made their vow, had sent him among them in the character which they them- selves had given him — as a friend and brother. If so, they reasoned that the sacrifice of his life would only anger Him, and by no means relieve them from the obligations of their vow. Another party reasoned that ihe Great Spirit had sent this victim among them to test their fidelity to Him. He had indeed been their friend ; they had called him brother ; but he was also their natural enemy ; and that the Great One to whom they had made their vow, would not release them at all from its obligations, if they allowed this factitious relation of friendship to interfere with obedience to Himself. The other party rejoined, that although the trapper was their natural enemy, he was not one within the meaning of 25 - n 386 TKN TEARS TV OREGON. their vow ; that the taking of his life would be an evasion of its sacred obhgations — a blot upon their courage — and an outrage upon tho laws of friendship ; that they could find other victims, but that their friend could rot find another life. The other party rebutted, that the trapper was con- fessedly their natural enemy ; that the conditions of their vow required the blood of their natural enemy ; and that the Oreat Spirit had sufficiently shown His views of the rela- tive obligations of friendship and obedience to Himself in Bending the trapper to their camp. The trapper's friends perceiving that the obstinacy of their opponents was unlikely to yield to reason, proposed as a compromise, that, since, if they should adjudge the trapper their enemy within the re- quirements of their vow, his blood only would be needed to stain their garments, they would agree to take from him so much as miglit be necessary for that purpose ; and that in consideration of being a brother, he should retain enough to keep his heart alive. As their return to their tribe would be secured by this measure, little objection was raised to it The flint lancet was applied to the veins of the white man ; their garments were died with his blood ; they departed for their nation's village, and the poor trapper for the beaver among the hills. My worthy old guide, Kelly, had often seen these medicin- lodges. He informed me that many of his votive offerings before mentioned arc permitted to decay with the lodge in •which they are hung ; that the penalty to any mortal who shoTild dare appropriate them to his use was death. A cer- tain white man, however, who had been robbed of his blanket at the setting in of winter, came upon one of these sacred lodges erected by the young Arrapahoes, which contained, among other things, a blanket that seemed well calculated to V2X Y£AKS IX OKEOOy. da;? asion of and nil uld find another ran con of tlic'ir that thf he rela- mself in 5 friends unlikely since, if 1 the re- ceded to 1 him so 1 that in lough to would be jed to it itc man ; arted for e beaver medicin- offerings lodge in rtal who Accr- is blanket ;e sacred ontained, julated to bbield hiji from the cold. J [.J spread it over his shivering frame, and very unadvii^edly went irjto the Arrapahoe vil- lage. The Indians kniw the sacred deposit, held a council, called the culprit before them, and demanded why he had Btolen from the Great Spirit ? In exculpation, he stated that he had been robbed ; that the Groat S])irit saw him naked in the wintry w'.nd; pitied him; showed him the sacred lodge, and bade him take the blanket. * That seems to l^ well,' said the principal chief, to his fellow- counsellors, 'the Great Spirit has an undoubted right to give away his own property ;' and the trader was released. Among the several personages when I chanced to meet at Brown's Hole, was an old Snake Indian, who saw Messrs- Lewis and Clark on the head waters of the Missouri in 1806. He is the individual of his tribe, who first saw the explo- rers' cavalcade. He appears to have been galloping from place to place in the office of sentinel to the Shoshonie camp when he suddenly found himself in the very presence of the whites. Astonishment fixed him to the spot. Men with faces pale as ashes, had never been seen by himself or na- tion. * The head rose high and round, the top flat ; it jutted over the eyes in a thin rim ; their skin was loose and flowing, and of various colors.' His fears at length overcoming his curiosity, he fled in the direction of the Indian encampment. But being seen by the whites, they pursued and brought hipn to their camp ; exhibited to him the effects of their . fire- arms — loaded him with presents, and let him go. Having arrived among his own people, he told them he had seen men with faces pale as ashes, who were makers of thunder, light- ning, etc. This information astounded the whole tribe. They had lived many years, and their ancestors had lived many more, and there were many legends which spoke of 4'i| S68 TXK TEARS IN OREG05. 1 ■■' If 1^ 1^' m many wonderful things ; but a tale like this they never had heard. A council was iberetoi<; assembled to consider the matter. The man of st-ange words was summoned before it; aad he rehearsed, in substance, what he had before told toothers; but was not believed. 'All men were red, and therefore he could not have seen men as pale as ashes.' * The Great Spirit made the thunder and the lightning ; he therefore could not have seen men of any color that could produce it. He had seen nothing ; he had lied to his chief, and should die.' At this stage of the proceedings, the cul- prit produced some of the presents which he had received from the pale men. These being quite as new to them as pale faces were, it was determined ' that he should have the privilege of leading his judges to the place where he de- clared he had seen these strange people ; and if such were found there, he should be exculpated ; if not, these presents were to be considered as conclusive evidence against him, that he dealt with evil spirits, and that he was worthy of death by the arrows of his kinfolks.' The pale men — the thunder-makers — were found, and were witnesses of the poor fellow's story. He was released ; and has ever since been much honored and loved by his tribe, and every white man in the mountains. He is now about eighty years old, and poor. But as he is always about fort David Crockett, he is never permitted to want." The following extracts are from Lee and Frost's " Ten Years in Oregon." ** But perhaps we ought not to take our departure from this place without noticing the great medical operation which was being performed here. The patients consisted of a young woman, who, upon examination, was found to have a slight fever ; and a child, in much the same state, neither TIN TEARS IS OREOOy. 389 of thetn being dangerously ill. But the doctors affirmed that they had been filled with skokoms ; and as proof of the truth of their statement of the cases, they produced a small snail shell, with a small string attached to it, and a small bunch of hair, wound up with a thread, and several other articles of the some nature, which they professed to have taken from the stomachs of the sick, and there were still several to be dislodged before a cathartic would take any effect ; but after these were removed, they said it would be good for Mr. Lee to give his medicine. They now made preparations for a trial of their skill in endeavoring to rout another of these evil genii or skokoms. One of the doctors* out of six or eight who constituted the grand council, all of whom appeared as wise as serpents, it would seem had been the most successful in his attacks upon the strong-hold of this combination of skokons, so it was decided he should be the leader in another general onset. Upon which he crawled near the yoimg woman — w ho was stretched upon a mat, with a female attendant at her lead — for the purpose of as- certaining the precise position of the enemy. Having deter- mined this point, and made known all the particulars to his faculty, he prepared himself for the tug of war. This he did by drawing his right arm through the hole in his blanket around the neck, so that his arm was now entirely disen- cumbered, lie then threw his long hair up over his head, which entirely covered his face. Being now ready, he kneeled down, while all the othca' doctors, and men, women, and children, were arranged on either side, equipped with sticks and long poles which reached to the board roof. The kneel- ing doctor now commenced a wild and frightful song or cho- rus, in which all joined, keeping time with their sticks. He now commenced moving with well- dissembled caution to- iii if A; i 390 tk:x years in oregoit. ward the patient, extending his hand toward her stomach, as an eagle would his talons, ready to seize his affrighted prey ; and the nearer he approached the lodgment of the sVokom, the more furious became the singers and thumpers, and when he reached the stomach, at which ha had been diminsr, his distorted form and strained muscles evinced the appearance of perfect agony. The choir now bore down with might and main, and the practitioner now plunged his two fists into the patient's stomach most unmercifully ; and sciidng one of the enemy by the neck or heels, or somewhere else, he appeared to find it very hot ; but drawing back qtilckly, plunged his hands into a trough of cold water, #hich was standing hard by, and then seized the unyielding tde again ; but as it had then assumed something of the na- ture of the eel, and slipped out of his hands, he quickly caught up some ashes, rubbed it on his fingers, then laid hold upon it for the third time, screaming and yelling in the tuost terific manner, while the company plied their sticks, and singing, or rather screaming, pipes with redoubled en- ergy. The battle now became doubtful ; but after many manly efforts victory turned upon the doctor's side, who, by oiic mighty effort, broke the hold of the skokom upon the patient, which now turned wholly upon the doctor, causing him to cry out for help. The company was now in perfect ecstacies, pounding as though life and death depended upon every stroke ; an^l bellowing at the very top of their voices, 'Ha ha yeh, ha ha yeh/ Two of the faculty now caught the almost overpowered doctor around the waist, and bore him, screeching and writhing, away from the patient, amidst the thundering noise of the transported spectators and at- tendant physicians ; but all of a sudden the victorious doc tor cried, * Ho ho ho,' and making an effort, as though he TXN TKARS IN ORKGOX. 391 was catching after something toward the top of the lodge, exclaimed, ' There, he has gone through the roof!' The music now ceased, every Indian and squaw appeared aston- ished, while the doctor explained the whole process in an elaborate speech. After witnessing several such feats, Mr. Lee commenced reproving them for their folly ; but a ven- erable old doctor informed him that it would be best for him to depart before he found himself in trouble. So taking the old man's advice, we laid in a stock of fresh dried salmon, got our crew on board, and left the doctor's to manage the remainder of the skokoms according to their ancient mode of practice." ***** " Let the reader now be introduced to the most influential persons among this people. These are the *medicin-men/ or conjurors, who can, it is believed, set the evil spirit of disease at defiance, cast it out where it has dared to enter, and make it seize, with an unyielding, deadly grasp, the ob- jects of their displeasure. The people believe that they iiold intercourse with spirits, that they can see the disease, which is some extraneous thing, as a small shell, or a pipe, or a piece of tobacco, or some other material substance, which they — the doctors — describe. It is firmly believed that they can send a bad ' tam-ana-a-was' into a person, and make him die, unless it be cast out by some other 'medicin-man.' . If a threat is made, or is intimated, by one of them, that a certain person will not live long, no sooner does he hear of it than he is alarmed, and feels hims If a dead man. For their stivices they are paid in advance, and often their de- mands are high, and their practice is lucrative. When their patients die, they restore the fees. This is necessary for their own security, for otherwire they might be charged with having caused his death, which would render tliem the m 302 l-EK TEARS IN OREOOV. mark of revenge. If one of the order is his rival or enemy, and he wishes this obstacle to his own advancement removed, the affirmation that he caused the death of some person will probably be followed with his dcatli by some of the relatives of the deceased. Several deaths from this cause took place at the Dalles the first year after the station was occupied, and this is a common occurrence among many of the 3ur- rounding tribes. Sometimes it happens that the doctor takes all his patient has, not leaving a dying man his last, perhaps his only, garment or covering. A case of this kind occurred at the Dalles. A young man was in a consumption, and was in the writer's care — he was frightened away to the doctor by some one who saw he had a shirt and trousers, and shoes, and a light blanket, which he had received ia part from me ; and it was not long before he had stripped him of the whole, and then left him to die, or hastened his death. The poor man had no friends, and the doctor was safe. As we shall have occasion to notice instances of these practices in the progress of our work, the \vriter will only mention briefly the manner in which it is sometimes per- formed, which will give the reader some idea of its degrading nature. Several poles are tied together at the ends, and from si.\ to ten men are arranged along them in a sitting posture, each having a stick with which he beats on the poles, and thus, a loud jarring noise is produced, which may be heard a long distance. This is accompanied with a kind of singing, in which the *raedicin-man* leads while he kneels near his patient on the other side of the poles, making hor- rid contortions and grimaces, as if some demoniac was raging within. The chant is not long, and then, after a few min- utes, is renewed again, and thus repealed several times. TEK TBARS IN OREO OK. 393 The way being now prepared, he approaches his patient, and, after a painful and persevering effort, with his mouth applied as a cupping glass, he transfers the 'sko-kom,* or 'tam-an-a-was,' or disease, wholly or in part, from the pa- tient to himself! In this stage of the treatment two men approach him, and taking hold of ropes about his waist and beneath his arms, free him from the patient, when he appears as one dead. Very soon he begins to show signs of life — a limb moves, he mutters, turns, gets on his hands and knees, rises slowly up, can hardly stand, grows stronger, summons a mighty eflFort ! — music lifts, labors ! — makes an unearthly scream, and violently throwing out his arms at full length, ejects the evil principle, and he is now ready for a new onset!" * * * * * * " While Mr. Shepherd, as, has been related, was confined to his dying bed, and not long before his decease, his heart was cheered by hearing that the Lord was visiting the Dalles sta- tion in the awkening and conversion of souls. That this was the work of God at its beginning and in its progress, the writer fully believes. What if some, or even most of the anticipated results failed ? Does this prove that it was not God's doing ? By no means ; for instances are frequent in whicl\ he revives his work in portions of his vineyard, and most of the anticipated fruits never appear. See this illus- trated by an unerring Teacher in the parable of the sower, Matt. xiii. The writer, when this good work commenced, was absent, having gone some time previous to the Walamet, and did not return till past the 15th of November. When he arrived, Mr. Perkins met him at the shore, and told him that a gracious work was begun among the natives. Of thi^ he had strong doubts, and could not assent till the proof appeared ; for before he went to the Walamet, they had bo- 3^4 TBN YEARS IN OREGOK. Nil in ■1 1 1 15 n . ' - I. '•'•■All' ■ , .■ . ■ ■>^'~ »•**'- 4i^ come so lawless and daring that our safety was endangered, and he had just brought several muskets and a supply of powder and balls from Vancouver for defence, intenduig to garrison the dwelling-house, and resist any hostility they might attempt. But now these munitions of war were not needed, for it appeared truly that the God of peace had come to the help of his servants, and the salvation of his people. Mr. Perkins was found laboring zealously night and day, going from lodge to lodge, praying and exhorting, holding prayer meetings and preaching. His own soul had been recently blessed with a signal salvation, and walking in the * comfort of the Holy Ghost,' he had the cause of God greatly at heart. Large numbers of the natives attended the meetings as earnest hearers, and several had begun to pray. One had already been converted. After several weeks of deep repentance, in which he met with much op- position, and devoted many hours to prayer, hia soul was set at liberty in a prayer meeting ; and although his joy was not great, the change was soon manifest. He began at once to * declare what God had done for his soul,' exhorted all he met to come to Jesus, and prayed with deep and fervent longings for the souls of his relations and others. This event awakened a deeper and wider interest among the people ; insomuch that the number of inquirers obliged Mr. Perkins to give himself entirely up to the work, as mentioned above. As to Mr. Perkins and the writer, their hearts were knit to- gether in love, and long will those seasons of 'refreshing from the presence of the Lord,' which wc enjoyed in those happy days, be remembered, when the language of our hearts was, 'Jesus is mine, and I am his.' Our object and aim were now one — the salvation of the souls around us; and we desired no higher employment than to serve them as raV TKARS IN ORKOOK. 395 the heirs of eternal life. We felt that they belonged to Christ, and he could and would save them. With those views our united strength was now consecra- ted to this work, which the Lord of the vineyard had evi- dently assigned us. Our meetings were held in the house mentioned in the last chapter, which was thirty by twenty feet ; but on the sabbath it would not hold the people, so that sometimes it was necessary to hold a meeting in the other house at the same time. Every morning and evening they were assembled for public prayers, when a portion of the New Testament history was expounded by one of us. Such was their interest in the meetings, that the want of clothing suflScient to protect them from the cold, or of shoes to keep their feet from the frost and snow — for even many of the women had none — could not keep them away, though they had to walk a mile in going and returning. Who, let me ask, in this christian land, would do more than this in order to hear the blessed gospel ? Some time after my re- turn from the Walamet, there being about twenty souls, men and women, in deep distress on account of their sins, and apparently near the 'kingdom,' we met in a special prayer meeting, where few except those were present. Here was earnest, united praying, and the 'kingdom of heaven was ta- ken by violence.' More than half the number gave evidence of a happy change. Their agitated hearts felt an unknown peace, a joyful smile sat on their faces, and their lips praised the name of Jesus. 'Mi-cah Jesus Christ e-toke-te! — Thou, Jesus Christ, art good !' 'Cupet mi-cah mi-mah e-toke-te ! Thou alone art good !' — ' Can-nu-it e-toke-te ! — Certainly thou art good !' 'Jesus good !' 'Jesus good !' The 'spirit of adoption' was now as manifest as had been a little before the 'spirit of bondage.' One of these, a leading 39« TEN YEARS IN OREOON man, who is sometimes called 'Boston* by his people, be- cause his head is not flattened, was some time before asked by Mr. Perkins why he rose so much earlier than formerly. 'Why,' said he, 'I cannot sleep. When I go home and lie down, I think of your teaching, and I cannot sleep, I sleep a little, and then dream I am in meeting, and my heart is all the time talking over what you say. My heart was for- merly asleep, I see, but now it is awake.' As soon as his own proud spirit was humbled, and his troubled conscience had found peace, he sought his wife and daughter, knelt by them and told them to pray. Here may be given a specimen of their praying. O thou great God on high, we now pray to thee. Our fathers knew thee not, they died in darkness, but we have heard of thee — now we see a little. Truly we are wretched ! Our hearts were blind — dark as night — always foolish — our ears closed ! Our hearts bad — all bad — always bad — full of evil — nothing good — not one ! Thou knowest ! Truly we pray now to thee. O make us good ! Put away our bad hearts. Give us thy Holy Spirit to make our hearts soft ! Our hearts are hard like a stone. Give us light. O make our hearts new — good — all good — always good ! Formerly we stole — told lies — were full of anger; now done! * Nashke alka ka- dow / Never again so !' Now we desire thee, come into our hearts — now come ! Jesus Christ thy Son died for us ; O Jesus, wash our hearts! 'Minch't-cah-mect cow-o-lute quich-cah ! — Behold and bless !* Several others were soon after added to this number. Mrs. Perkins now devoted a part of every day in prayer meetings with the females, and the work continued to pros- per. The voice of prayer was now heard in the lodge, and wood, and glen ; the early morning and the evening were vo- TSM TKAR8 IN aREGOX. sol cal with the suppliant's voice, and the place where the 'church-going bell* was 'never heard,' was honored with the presence of the 'Head of the church' in many a hallowed spot where he met the contrite 'sinner returning from his ways.' There was an old man, who for some time stood aloof from the work, because others of a lower class took the lead in it ; and this made him of less consequence than he de- sired, and he opposed the little band for several weeks. During this time he was in a very unhappy state of mind. One day as the writer was speaking with him closely about God, whom he was bound to obey and love, he seemed deeply affected, and wept, and while we prayed together his tears flowed freely ; he did not, however, yield his heart to God till the first of May, several weeks after. 'IIow do you feel ?' said Mr. Perkins to another old man as they were go- iHg out to pray in the wood. * O,' said he, 'my heart is very small and sorrowful. Yesterday I prayed most all day out behind that hill,' pointing to a distant hill; 'but my heart is still bad !' 'Jesus can change it,' said Mr. P.; 'Jesus has died for you !' So kneeling down they prayed The poor old man believed in Jesus, and light, love, and joy filled his heart — another proof of the love of God to the poor, whom he makes 'heirs to his kingdom !' These pages relate to the work at the station, chiefly among the Indians of the Caclasco village near it, and this continued to spread till but a small number were left, and dlso extended to two small villages a few miles below, em- bracing also a little village of the WallawaHas, living near Caclasco; most of them were formed into cli.sesbyMr. Perkins before the 10th of January, 1840. The writer had been laboring among the Indians on the river below, down ml 396 TEN YKAna IS OREOOK. |i' to the Cascades, of which we will speak hereafter, and fir^t notice this work at its introduction among the Indians at Wishham. Mr. Perkins visited this village on the 10th of January, 1840. The roundhead man, 'Boston,* was with him, as an interpreter : this man had assisted him from the day of his conversion, and was found an efficient helper : the season was cold, and the first night they took little notice of him : encamped in a lodge of sticks and mats. There, next day, he found a large celler, which was formerly used as a dan- cing hall, and clearing it out, used it for a meeting house, It was large enough to hold all the village — three hundred souls. A few men and boys, and about twenty-five women, came in the forenoon. Their number increased at every meeting, till on the fourth day almost the whole village were present. Such objects never met your eyes ! Naked, squal- id, deformed, blind, halt, lame : Mr. P. truly adds, 'destruc- tion and misery are in their ways,* as saith the scriptures. After he had preached two days, they seemed to awake as from a dream; many began to pray, a \ the cry became general as the meeting progressed. The barren rocks be- hind Wishham echoed their earnest prayers, and many after- ward testified that they became happy while thus engaged, and many spoke feelingly of their past wretchedness and darkness, and seemed to feel a deep abhorrence of their sins, and expressed a determination to serve God hence- forth. One old man, on hearing Mr. Perkms' interpreter tell the story of Jesus, exclaimed, ' this is the talk I want to hear !' Then addressing Mr. Perkins, he with a poker drew some coals from the fire, saying, 'there, you have come just to TKM TKARS IN OREOOK. 390 and firs>l ndians at January, im, as an ay of his lie season ; of him : lext day, as a dan- ig house, hundred e women, at every lage were ed, squal- , 'destruc- jcriptures. awake as •y became rocks be- lany after- i engaged, dness and e of their od hence- pull me out of the fire !' At his subsequent visits during the winter, the work appeared to be continually advancing, and several were found to bo useful as exhorters. Here he formed several olas., and very well sprinkled with bunch-grass, sufficient to pas- ture the animals two or three days ; and this was to be their main point of support. This ridge is composed of a com- pact trap, or basalt of a columnar structure ; over the sur- face are scattered large boulders of porus trap. The hills are in many places entirely covered with small fragments of volcanic rock. ^m iw»:£9 TEH TEARS IN OREGON. 409 Putting on on our snow-shoes, Ave spent the afternoon in exploring a road ahead. The glare of the snow, combined with great fatigue, had rendered many people nearly blind ; but we were fortunate in having some black silk handker- chiefs, which, worn as veils, very much relieved the eye. 11th, — Hijfh wind continued, and our trail this morning was nearly invisible — here and there indicated by a little ridge of snow. Our situation became tiresome and dreary, requiring a strong exercise of patience and resolution. In the evening I received a message from Mr. Fitzpatric':» acquainting me with the utter failure of his attempt to get our mules and horses over the snow — the half hidden trail had proved entirely too slight to support them, and they had broken through, and were plunging about or lying half bu- ried in snow. He was occupied in endeavoring to get them back to his camp ; arid in the mean time sent to me for fur- ther instructions. I wrote to him to send the animals imme- diately back to their old pastures ; and after having made mauls and shovels, turn in all the strength of his party to open and beat a road through the snow, strengthening it with branches and boughs of the pines. 12th. — We made mauls, and worked hard at our end of the road all day. The wind was high, but the sun bright, and the snow thawing. We worked down the face of the hill, to meet the people at the other end. Towards sun- down it began to grow cold, anjj we shouldered our raauls and trudged back to camp, 13th. — AVe continued to labor on the road; and in the course of the day had the satisfaction to see the people working down the face of the opposite hill, about three miles distant. During the morning we had the pleasure of a visit from Mr. Fitzpatrick, with the information that all was going on well. A party of Indians had passed on snow- shoes, who said they were going to the western side of the mountain after fish. This was an indication that the salmon were coming up the streams ; and we could hardly restrain our impatience as we thought of them, and worked with in- creased vigor. The meat train did not arrive this evening, and I gave Godey leave to kill our little dog, (Tlamath,) which he pre- pared in Indian fashion ; scorching off the hair, and wash- ing the skin with soap and snow, and then cutting it up into pieces which were laid on the snow. Shortly afterwards, 410 TEN YEARS LN OUEGON. 1 4l^ ^■i* * r5\ , t » the sleigh arrived with a supply of horse-meat ; and we had to-night an extraordinary dinner — pea-soup, mule and dog. 14th — The dividing ridge of the Sierra is in sight from this encampment. Accompanied by Mr. Preuss, I ascended to-day the highest peak to the right; from which we had a beautiful view of a mountain lake at our feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so e.itircly surrounded by mountains that Ave could not di. cover an outlet. We had taken with us a glass ; but though we enjoyed an extended view, the valley was half hidden in mist, as when we had seen it be- fore. Snovr could be distinguished on the higher parts of the coast mountains ; eastward, as far as the eye could extend, it ranged over a terrible mass of broken snowy mountains, fading off blue in the distance. The rock composing the summit consists of a very coarse, dark, volcanic conglomer- ate ; the lower parts appeared of a slaty structure. The highest trees were a few^ scattered cedars and aspens. From the immediate foot of the peak, we were two hours reaching the summit, and one hour and a quarter in descending. The day had been very bright, still, and clear, and spring seems to be advancing rapidly. While the sun is in the sky, the snow melts rapidly, and gushing springs cover the face of the mountain in all the exposed places ; but their surface freezes instantly with the disappearance of the sun. I obtained to-night some observations ; and the result from these, and others made during our stay, gives for the latitude 38° 41' 5l", longitude 120° 25' 57", and rate of the chronometer 25.82". loth. — We had succeeded in getting our animals safely to the first grassy hill ; and this morning I started with Ja- cob on a reconnoitering expedition beyond the mountain. — We traveled along the crests of narrow ridges, extending down from the mountain in the direction of the valley, from which the snow was fast melting away. On the open spots was tolerably good grass ; and I judged we should succeed in getting the camp down by way of these. Towards sun- down we discovered some icy spots in a deep hollow ; and, descending th^ mountain, we encamped on the head-Avater of a little creek, where at last the water found its way to the Pacific. The night was clear and very long. We heard the '^ries of some Avild animals, which had been attracted by our tire, and a flock of geese passed over during the night. Even *t *. -^'^ TEN YEAUS IK OREGON. 411 iaching The these strange sounds had something pleasant to our senses in this region of silence and desolation. We started again early in the morning. The creek ac- (^uired a regular breadth o^ about twenty feet, and we soon began to hear the rushing of the water below the icy sur- face, over which we traveled to avoid the snow ; a few miles beloAV Ave broke through, where the water was several feet deep, and halted to make a fire and dry our clothes. We continued a few miles farther, walking being very laborious without snow-shoes. I was now perfectly satisfied that we had struck the stream on which Mr. Sutter lived ; and turning about, made a hard push, and reached the camp at dark. Here we had the pleasure to find all the remaining animals, 6*7 in number, safely arrived at the grassy hill near the camp ; and here, also, we were agreeably surprised with the sight of an abun- dance of salt. Some of the horse-guard had gone to a neighboring hut for pine nuts, and discovered unexpectedly a large cake of very white fine-grained salt, which the In- dians told them they had brought from the other side of the mountain ; they used it to eat with their pine nvts, and read- ily sold it for goods. On the 19th, the people were occupied in making a road and bringing up the baggage ; and, on the afternoon of the next day, February 20, 1844, we encamped, with the ani- mals and all the materiel of the camp, on the summit of the Pass in the dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by our traveled road from the Dalles to the Columbia. The people who had not yet been to this point, climed the neighboring peak to enjoy a look at the valley. The temperature of boiling water gave for the elevation of the encampment, 9,338 feet above the sea. This was two thousand feet higher than the South Pass in the Rocky mountains, and several peaks in view rose sev- eral thousand feet still higher. Thus at the extremity of the continent, and near the coast, the phenomenon was seen of a range of mountains still higher than the great Rocky mountains themselves. This extraordinary fact accounts for the Great Basin, and shows that there must be a system of small lakes and rivers here scattered over a flat country, and which the extended and lofty range of the Sierra Xevada prevents from escaping to the Pacific ocean. Latitude 38° 44' ; longitude 120° 28'. f 412 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. Thus tlic pass in the Sierra Nevada, which so well de- serves its name of Snowy mountain, is eleven degrees west and about four degrees south of the South Pass. 21st. — We now considered ourselves victorious over the mountain ; having only the descent before us, and the val- ley under our eyes, we felt strong hope that we should force our way down. But this was a case in which the descent was not facile. Still deep fields of snow lay between ihem, and there was a large intervening space of rough-looking mountains, through which wc had yet to wind our way. — Carson roused me this morning with an early fire, and we were all up long before day, in order to pass the snow fields before the sun should render the crust soft. We en- joyed this morning a scene at sunrise, which even here was unusually glorious and beautiful. Immediately above the eastern mountains was repeated a cloud-formed mass of purple ranges, bordered with bright yellow gold ; the peaks shot up into a narrow line of crimson cloud, above which the air was filled with a greenish orange ; and over all was the singular beauty of the blue sky. Passing along a ridge which commanded the lake on our right, of which we began to discover an outlet through a chasm on the west, we passed over alternating open ground and hard crusted snow- fields which siipported the animals, and encamped on the ridge, after a journey of six miles. The grass was better than we had yet seen, and we were encamped in a clump of trees 20 or 30 feet high, resembling white pine. With the exception of these small clumps, the ridges were bare ; and where the snow found the support of the trees, the wind had blown it up iato banks 10 or 15 feet high. It required much care to hunt out a practicable way, as the most open places frequently led to impassable banks. We had hard and doubtful labor yet before us, as the snow appeared to be heavier where the timber began fur- ther doAvn, with few open spots. Ascending a height, w^e traced out the best line we could discover for the next day's march, and had at least the consoLition to see that the moun- tain descended rapidly. The day had been one of April — gusty, with a few occasional flakes of snow — which, in the afternoon, enveloped the upper mountain in clouds. We watched them anxiously, and noAV Ave dreaded a snow-storm. Shortly afterwards we heard the roll of thunder, and, look- ing towards the valley, found it enveloped in a thunder- TEN YEARS IN ORKOON. 413 storm. For us, as connected with the idea of summer, it had a singular charm, and we Avatclied its progrt'ss with ex- cited feehngs until nearly sunset, when the sky cleared off brightly, and wo saw a shining line of water directing its course towards another, a broader and larger sheet. We knew that these could be no other than the Sacrimento and the IJay of San Francisco ; but, after our long wandering in rugged mountains, where so frecjuently we had met with disapj)ointments, and where the crossing of every ridge dis- played some unknown lake or river, we were yet almost afraid to believe that we were at last to escape into the ge- nial country of which we had heard so many glowing de- scriptions, and dreaded to find some vast intei ior lake, whose bitter waters would bring us disappointment. On the south- ern shore of what appeared to be the bay could be traced the gleaming line where entered another large stream ; and again the Buenaventura rose up in our minds. Carson had entered the valley along the southern side of the bay, and remembered perfectly to have crossed the mouth of a very large stream, which they had been obliged to rait ; but the country then was so entirely covered with water from snow and rain, that he had been able to form no correct impressions of water- courses. We had the satisfaction to know that at least there were people below. Fires were lit up in the valley just at night, appearing to be in answer to ours : and these signs of life renewed, in some measure, the gayety of the camp. They appeared so near, that we judged them to be among the lim- ber of some of the neighboring ridges ; but, having them constantly in view day after day, and night after night, we afterwards found them to be fires that had been kindled by the Indians among the tulares, on the shore of th*. bay, 80 miles distant. Among the very few plants that appeared here, was the common blue flax. To-night a mule was killed for food. 22d, — Our breakfast was over long before day. We took advantage of the coolness of the early morning to get over the snow, which to-day occurred in very deep banks among the timber; but we searched out the coldest places, and the animals passed successfully with their loads over the hard crust. Now and then the delay of making a road oc- casioned much labor and loss of time. In the after part of the day, we saw before us a handsome grassy ridge .'■j' 'i 'Hi Mi I' 414 TEN YEARS IN ORREOON. 1 ^M,: V. • ■.'■•■■".■'V'j point ; and makiiiLf a dcsperato pusli over a snow-fiold ton or Hfteen feet deep, wc happily succeeded in getting the camp across, and encamped on the ridg<>, after a march of tliree miles. Wo had again the prospect of a thunder-storm be- low, and to-night we killed another mule — now our only re- source from starvation. We satisfied ourselves during the day tliat the lake liad an oiithit between two rani^es on the ri'_cht ; and "with this the creek on which I had encamped prob;ibly effected a junction below. Between these Ave were descending. We continued to enjoy the same delightful weather ; the sky of the same beautiful blue, and such a sunset and sun- rise as on our Atlantic coast we could scarcely imagine. — And here among the mountains, 9,000 feet above the sea, we have the deep blue sky and .sunny climate of Smyrna and I*alermo, which a little map before me shows are in the same latitude. Elevation above the sea, by theboiling point, is 8,505 feet. 23d. — This was our most difficult day; we were forced ofY the ridges by the quantity of snow among the timber, and obliged to take to the mountain sides, where occasion- ally rocks and a southern exposure afforded us a chance to scramble along. But these were steep, and slippery with snow and ice ; and the tough evergreens of the mountain impeded our way, tore our skins, and exhausted our pa- tience. Some of us had the misfortune to wear moccasins with parjleche soles, so slippery that we could not keep our feet, and generally crawled across the snow-beds. Axes and mauls were necessary to-day, to make a road through the snow. Going ahead with Carson to reconnoitre the road, Ave reached in the afternoon the river which made the outlet of the lake. Carh.>'>A sprang over, clear across a place where the stream was coapressed among rocks, but the 2)arjleche sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy rock, and precipitated rre into the river. It was some fcAV sec- onds before I could recover myself in the current, and Car- son, thinking me hurt, jumped in after me, and we both had an icy bath. We tried to search awhile for my gun, which had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out ; and ma- king a large fire on the bank, after Ave had partially dried ourselves avc Avent back to meet the camp. We afterwards found that the gun had been slung under the ice which lined the banks of the creek. »«<••■ TEN YNARS ly OIIEOON. 415 ; Iho suii- Using our old plan of breaking roads -with alternate lior- scs, we reached the creek in the evening, and encamped on a dry open place in the ravine. Anotiier branch which Ave had followed, here comes in on the left; and from this point the mountain wall, on which AV(! had traveled to-day, faces to the south along the right bank of the river, where the sun appears to have melted the snnw ; but the opposite ridge is entirely covered. — Here among the pines, the hill side produces but little grass — barely sufficient to keep life in the animals. We had the pleasure to be rained upon this afternoon ; and grass was now our greatest solicitude. Many of the men looked badly ; and some this evenin ■WW TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 41' from the ground. This noble tree seemed here to be in its proper soil and cUmate. We found it on both sides of the Sierra, but most abundant on the west. 26th. — We continued to follow the stream, the mountains on either hand increasing in height as we descended, and shutting up the river narrowly in precipices, along which we had great difficulty to get our horses. It rained heavily during the afternoon, and we were forced off the river to the heights above ; whence we descended, at night-fall, the point of a spur between the river and a fork of nearly equal size, coming in from the right. Here we saw, on the lower hils, the first flowers in blocm, which occurred suddenly, and in considerable quantity — one of them a species of gilia. The current in both streams (rather torrents than rivers) was broken by large boulders. It was late and the animals fatigued ; and not succeeding to find a ford immediately, we encamped, although the hill-side afforded but a few stray bunches of grass, and the horses, standing about in the rain, looked very miserable. 27th. —We succeeded in fording the stream, and made a trail \)y which we crossed the point of the opposite hill, which, on the southern exposure, was prettily covered with green grass, and we halted a mile from our last encamp- ment. The river was only about sixty feet wide, but rapid, and occasionally deep, foaming among boulders, and the wa- ter beautifully clear. We en -amped on the hill-slope, ao there was no bottom level, and the opposite ridge is con- tinuous, affording no streams. We had with us a large kettle ; and a mule being killed here, his head was boiled in it for several hours, and made a passable soup for famished people. Below, precipices on the river forced us to the heights, which we ascended by a steep spur, 2,000 feet high. My favor'te horse, Proveau, had become very weak, and was 8C8rc*^ly able to bring himself to the top. Travelling here was good, except in crossing the ravines, which were nar- row, steep, and frequent. We caught a glimpse of a deer, the first animal we had seta; but did not succeed in ap- proaching him. Proveau could not keep up, and I left Ja- cob to bring him on, being obliged to press forward with the party, as there was no grass in the forest. We grew 27 418 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. very anxious as the day advanced and no grass appeared, for the Uves of our animals depended on finding it to-night. They were in just such a condition that grass and repose for the night enabled them to get on the next day. Every hour we had been expecting to see open out before us the valley, which, from the mountain above, seemed almost at our feet. Anew and singular shrub, which had made its appearance since crossing the mountain, was very frequent to-day. It branched out near the ground, iorming a clump eight to ten feet high, with pale -green leaves, of an oval form ; and the body aud branches had a naked appearance, as if stripped of the bark, which is very smooth and thin, of a chocolate color, contrasting well with the pale-green of the leaves. The day was nearly gone ; we had made a hard day's march, and found no grass. Towns became light- headed, wandering off into the woods witbout knowing where he was going, and Jacob brought him back , Near night-fall we descended into the steep ravine o( a handsome creek 30 feet wide, and I was engaged in getting the horses up the opposite hill, when I heard a shout from Carson, who had gone ahead a few hundred yards — " Life yet," said he, as he came up, "life yet ; I have found a hill- side sprinkled with grass enough for ihe night." We drove along our horses, and er- ampeci at the place about dark, and there was just room enough to make a place for shelter on the edge of the stream. Three horses were lost to-day — Proveau ; a fine young horse from the Columbia, belong- ing to Charles Towns ; and another Indian horse, which carried our cooking utensils. The two former gave out, and the latter strayed off into the woods as we reached the camp. 29th — ^We lay shut up in the narrow ravine, and gave the animals a necessary day ; and men were sent back after the others. Derosier volunteered to bring up Proveau, to whom he knew I was greatly attached, as he had been my favorite horse on both expeditions. Carson and I climbed one of the nearest mountains ; the forest land still extended ahead, and the valley appeared as far as ever; The pack horse was found near the camp ; but Derosier did not get in. Marcpt 1st. — Derosier did not get in during the night, follow, as no srrass remained here, we I ivmg grass TEX YEARS IN OREGON 419 )peared, -night. ;pose for Every e us tlie Imost at made its frequent a clump an oval ea-rance, md thin, green of e a hard le light- knowing ■ ine of a 1 getting )ut from =— " Life nd a hill- Ve drove aut dark, ►r shelter st to-day , belong- ie, which out, and ihed the gave the after the veau, to been my climbed t^xtended rhe pack '. not get le night, here, we *J continued on over the uplands, crossing many small streams, and camped again on the river, having made six miles. — Here we found the hill side covered (although lightly) with fresh green grass ; and from this time forward we found it always improving and abimdant. We made a pleasant camp oa the river hill, where were some beautiful specimens of the chocolate-colored shrub, which were a foot in diameter near the ground, and fifteen to twenty feet high. The opposite ridge runs continuously along, unbroken by streams. We are rapidly descending into the spring, and we are leaving our snowy region far be- hind ; every thing is getting green ; butterflies are swarm- ing ; numerous bugs are creeping out, wakened from their winter's sleep ; and the forest flowers are coming into bloo"^!. Among those which appeared most Humerously to- day was dodecatheon dentatum. We began to be uneasy at Derosier's absence, fearing he might have been bewildered in the woods. Charles Towns, who had not yet recovered his mind, went to swin in the river, as if it were summer, and the stream placid, when it •was a cold mountain torrent foaming among the rocks. We were happy to see Derosier appear in the evening. He came in, and, sitting down by the fire, began to tell us where he had been. He imagined he had been gone sever- al days, and thought we were still at the camp where he had left us ; and we were pained to see that his mind was deranged. It appeared that he had been lost in the moun- tain, and hunger and fatigue, joined to weakness of body and fear of perishing in the mountains, had crazed him. — The times were severe when stout men lost their minds from extremity of suffering — when horses died — and when mules and horses, ready to die of starvation, were killed for food. Yet there was no murmuring or hesitation. A short distance below our encampment the river moun- tains terminated in precipices, and, after a fatiguing march of only a few miles, we encamped on a bench where there wen; springs, and an abundance of the freshest grass. In the mean time Mr. Preuss continued on down the river, and, unaware that we had encamped so early in the day, was lost. When night arrived and he did not come in, we be- gan to understand what had happened to him ; but it was too late to make any search. 420 TBN TEARS IW OAEGOIT .> ,f It ■ "^ '' ??^ 'Til 3(i. — ^We followed Mr. Preuss' trail for a considerable dis- tance along the river, until we reached a place where he had descended to the stream below and encamped. Here we shouted and fired guns^ but received no answer ; and we concluded that he had pushed on down the stream. I de- termined to keep out from the river, along which it was nea,rly impracticable to travel with animals, until it should form a valley. At every step the country improved in beauty ; the pines were rapidly disappearing, and oaks be- came the principal trees of the forest. Among these, the prevailing tree was the evergreen oak, ^which by way of distinction, we call the live-oak ;) and with these occurred frequently a new species of oak bearing a long slender acorn, from an inch to an inch and a half in length, which we noTV '■" •!" to see formed the principal vegetable food of the mhat " of this region. In a short distance wc crossed a hi ^ rivulet, where were two old huts, and near by were heaps of acorn-hulls. The ground round about was very rich, covered with an exuberant sward of grass ; and we sat down for a while in the shade of the oaks, to let the animals feed. We repeated our shouts for Mr. Preuss ; and ttiis time were gratified with an answer. The voice grew rapidly nearer, ascending from the river ; but when we expectisd to see him emerge, it ceased entirely. We had called up some straggling Indian — the first we had met, al- though for two days back we had seen tracks — who, mista- king us for his fellows, had been only undeceived on getting close up. It would have been pleasant to witness his as- tonishment ; he would not have been more frightened had some of the old mountain spirits they are so much afraid of, suddenly'' appeared in his path. Ignorant of the character of these people, we had now an additional cause of uneasi- ness in regard to Mr. Preuss ; he had no arms with him, and we began to think his chance doubtful. We followed on a trail, still keeping out from the river, and descended to a very large creek, dashing with great velocity over a pre- eminently rocky bed, and among large boulders. The bed had sudden breaks, formed by deep holes and ledges of rock runniing across. Even here, it deserves the name of JRock creek, which we gave to it. We succeeded in fording it, and toiled about three thousand feet up the opposite hill. The mountains now were getting sensibly lower ; but still TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 421 Inhere "is no valley on the river, which presents steep and rocky banks; but here, several miles from the river, the country is smooth and grassy ; the forest has no under- growth ; and in the open valleys of rivulets, or around sp'ing-heads, the low groves of live-oak give the appear- ance of orchards in an old cultivated oountry. Occasionally we met deer, but had not the necessary time for hunting. — At one of these orchard grounds, we encamped about noon to make an effort for Mr. Preuss. One man took his way along a spur leading into the river, in hope to cross his trail ; and another took our own back. Both were volunteers : and to the successful man was promised a pair of pistols — not as a reward, but as a token of gratitude for a service which would free us all from much anxiety. We had among our few animals a horse which was so much reduced, that, with travehng, even the good grass could not save him ; and, having nothing to eat, he was killed this afternoon. He was a good animal, and had made the journey round from Fort Hall. Dodecatheon dentatum continued the characteristic plant in flower ; and the naked looking shrub already mentioned continued characteristic, beginning to put forth a small white blossom. At evening the men returned, having seen or heard nothing of Mr. Preuss ; and I determined to make a hard push down the river the next morning and get ahead of him. 4th. — We continued rapidly along on a broad plainly- beaten trail, the mere traveling and breathing the delight- ful air being a positive enjoyment. Our road led along a ridge inclining to the river, and the air and the open grounds were fragrant with flowering shrubs ; and in the course of the morning we issued on an open spur, by which we de- scended directly to the stream. Here the river issues sud- denly from the mountains, which hitherto had hemmed it closely in ; these now become softer, and change sensibly their character ; and at this point commences the most beau- tiful valley in which we had ever traveled. We hurried to the river, on which we noticed a small sand beach, to which Mr. Preuss would naturally have gone. We found no trace of him, but, instead, Avere recent tracks of bare-footed In- dians, and little piles of muscle shells, and old fires where -they had roasted the fisK We traveled on over the river 422 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. grounds, which were undulating, and covered with grass to the river brink. We halted to noon a few miles beyond, always under the shade of the evergreen oaks, which formed open groves on the bottoms. Continuing our road in the afternoon, we ascended to the uplands, where the river passes round a point of great beauty, and goes through very remarkable dalles, in character re- sembling those of the Columbia. Beyond, we again de- scended to the bottoms, where we found an Indian village, consisting of two or three huts ; we had come upon them suddenly, and the people had evidently just run off. The huts were low and slight, made like bee-hives in a picture, five or six feet high, and near each was a crate, formed of interlaced branches and grass, in size and shape like a very large hogshead. Each of these contained from six to nine bushels. These were filled with the long acorns already mentioned, and in the huts were several neatly made bas- kets, containing quantities of the acorns roasted. They were sweet and agreeably flavored, and we supplied our- selves with about half a bushel, leaving one of our shirts, a handkerchief, and some smaller articles, in exchange. The river again entered for a space among the hills, and we fol- lowed a trail leading across a bend through a handsome hol- low behind. Here, while engaged in trying to circumvent a deer, we discovered some Indians on a hill several hundred yards ahead, and gave them a shout, to which they respon- ded by loud and rapid talking and vehement gesticu'iaLion, but made no stop, hurrying up the mountain as fast as their legs could carry them. We passed on and again encamped in a grassy grove. The absence of Mr. Preuss gave me great concern ; and, for a large reward, Derosier volunteered to go back on the trail. I directed him to search along the river, traveling upward for the space of a day and a half, at which time I expected he would meet Mr. Fitzpatrick, whom I requested to aid in the search ; at all events he was to go no farther, but return to this camp, where a caclie of provisions was made for him. Continuing the Tiext day down the river, we discovered three squaws in a little bottom, and surrounded them before they could make their escape. They had large conical bas- kets, which they were engaged in filling with a small leafy TEN YEARS IN OREGON'. 423 rass to eyond, "ormed plant (erocUum clcntarium) just now beginning to bloom, and covering the ground like a sward of grass. These did not make any lamentations, but appeared very much im- pressed with our appearance, speaking to us only in a whis- per, and offering us smaller baskets of the plant, which they signi6cd to us was good to eat, making signs also that it was to be cooked by the fire. We drew out a little cold horse meat, and the squaws made signs to us that the men had gone out after deer, and that we could have some by wait- ing till they came in. We observed that the horses ate with great avidity the herb which they had been gathering ; and here also, for the first time, we saw Indians eat the common grass — one of the squaws pulling several tufts, and eating it with apparent relish. Seeing our surprise, she pointed to the horses ; but we could not well understand what she meant, except, perhaps, that Avhat was good for the one was good for the other. We encamped in the evening on the shore of the river, at a place where the associated beauties of scenery made so strong an impression on us that we gave it the name of Beautiful Camp. The undulating river shore was shaded with the live-oaks, which formed a continuous grove over the country, and the same grassy sward extended to the edge of the water, and we made our fires near some large granite masses which were lying among the trees. We had seen several of the acorn caches during the day, and here there were two which were very large, containing each, probably, ten bushels. Towards evening we heard a weak shout among the hills behind, and had the pleasure to see Mr. Preuss descending towards the camp. Like ourselves, he had traveled to-day 25 miles, but had seen nothing of Derosier. Knowing, on the day he was lost, that I was de- termined to keep the river as much as possible, he had not thought it necessary to follow the trail very closely, but walked on, right and left, certain to find it somewhere along the river, searching places to obtain good views of the country. Towards sun-set he climbed down towards the river to look for the camp ; but, finding no trail, concluded that we were behind, and walked back till night came on, when, being very much fatigued, he collected drift-wood and made a large fire among the rocks. The next day it became more serious, and he encamped again alone, thinking 42-t TEN YEARS TN OREGON. that we must have tcakcn some other course. To go back would have been madness in his weak and starved condition, and onward towards the valley was his only ho])e, always in expectation of reaching it soon. His principal means of subsistence were a few roots, whicli the hunters call sweet onions, having very httle taste, but a good deal of nutri- ment, growing generally in rocky ground, and requiring a good deal of labor to get, as he had only a pocket-knife. — Searching for these, he found a nest of big ants, which he let run on his hand, and stripped tiiem oiF in his mouth ; these had an agreeable acid taste. One of his greatest pri- vations was the want of tobacco ; and a pleasant smoke at evening would have been a relief which only a voyageur could appreciate. He tried the dried leaves of the live-oak, knowing that those of other oaks were sometimes used as a substitute ; but these were too thick, and would not do. — On the 4th he made seven or eight miles, walking slowly along the river, avoiding as much as possible to climb the hills. In little pools he caught some of the smallest kind of frogs, which he swallowed, not so much in the gratifica- tion of hunger, as in the hope of obtaining some strength. Scattered along the river were old fire-places, where the In- dians had roasted muscles and acorns ; but though he searched diligently, he did not there succeed in finding ei- ther. He had collected firewood for the night, when he heard, at some distance from the river, the barking of what he thought were two dogs, and walked in that direction as quickly as he was able, hoping to find there some Indian hut, but met only two wolves ; and, in his disappointment the gloom of the forest was doubled. Travelling the next day feebly down the river, he found five or six Indians at the huts of which we have spoken ; some were painting themselves black, and others roasting acorns. Being only one man, they did not run off, but re- ceived him kindly, and gave him a welcome supply of roasted acorns. He gave them his pocket-knife in return, and stretched out his hand to one uf the Indians, who did not appear to comprehend the motion, but jumped back, as if he thought he was about to lay hold of him. They seemed afraid of him, not certain as to what he was. Travehng on, he came to the place where we had found the squaws. Here he found our fire still burning, and the TEN YEARS IN OREGOy. 425 tracks of the horses. The sight gave him sudden hope and courage ; and, following as fast as he could, joined us at evening. 6th. — We continued on our load throngh the same sur- passingly beautiful country, entirely unequalled for the pas- turage of stock by any thing we had ever seen. Our hor- ses had now become so strong that they were able to carry us, and we traveled rapidly — over four miles an hour ; four of us riding every alternate hour. Every few hundred yards we came upon a little band of deer ; but we were too eager to reach the settlement, which we momentarily ex- pected to discover, to halt for any other than a passing shot. In a few hours we reached a large fork, the northern branch of the river, and equal in size to that which we had descended. Together they formed a beautiful stream, GO to 100 yards wide ; which at first, ignorant of the nature of the country through which that river ran, we took to be the Sacramento. We continued down the right bank of the river, traveling for a whilo over a wooded upland, where we had the de- light to discover tracks of cattle. To the southwest was visible a black column of smoke, which we had frequently noticed in descending, arising from the fires we had seen from the top of the Sierra. From the upland we descended into broad groves on the river, consisting of the evergreen, and a new species of white- oak, with a large tufted top, and three to six feet in diameter. Among these was no brush- wood ; and the grassy surface gave to it the appearance of parks in an old settled country. Following the tracks of the horses f..id cattle, in search of people, we dis:* vered a village of Indians. Some of these had on shirts Oi civilized man- ufacture, but were otherwise naked, and we could under- stand nothing from them ; they appeared entirely astonished at seeing us. We made an acorn meal at noon, and hurried on ; the valley being gay with flowers, and some of the banks being absolutely golden with the Californian poppy, (eschesckoltzia crocea.) Here the grass was smooth and green, and the groves very open ; the large oaks throwing a broad shade among sunny spots. Shortly afterwards we gave a shout at the appearanc Cr- on a little bluff, of a neatly-built adobe house, with glass windows. We rode up, but, to our dis- 420 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. h \- appointment, found only Indians. There was no appear- ance of cultivation, and we could sec no cattle ; and we supposed the place had been abandoned. We now pressed on more eagerly than ever : the river swept round a large bend to the right ; the hills lowered down entirelj'^ ; and, gradually entering a broad valley, we came unexpectedly mto a large Indian village, where the people looked clean, and wore cotton shirts and various other articles of dress. They immediately crowded around us, and we had the in- expressible delight to find one who spoke a little indifferent Spanish, but who at first confounded us by saying there were no whites in the country ; but just then a well dressed Indian came up, and made his salutations in very well spo- ken Spanish. In answer to our inquiries, he informed us that we were upon the Bio de los Americanos , (the river of the Arae"' vciis) and that it joined the Sacramento river about ten miles below. Never did a name sound more sweetly ! We felt ourselves among our own countrymen ; for the name of American, in these distant parts, is applied to the citizens of the United States. To our eager inquiries he answered, "I am a vaquero (cowherd) in the service of Capt. Sutter, and the people of this rancheria work for him." Our evident satisfaction made him communicative ; and he went on to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich man, and always glad to see his country people. We asked for his house. He answered, that it was just over the hill before us ; and offered, if we would wait a moment, to take his horse and conduct us to it. We readily accepted this civil offer. In a short distance we came in sight of the fort ; and, pas- sing on the way the house of a settler on the opposite side, (a Mr. Sinclair,) we forded the rive • ; and in a few miles were met, a short distance from the fort, by Capt. Sutter himself. He gave us a most frank and cordial reception — conducted us immediately to his residence — and under his hospitable roof we had a night of rest, '?njoyment, and re- freshment, which none but ourselves couLl appreciate. But the party left in the mountains, with Mi , Fitzpatrick, were to be attended to ; and the next morning, supplied with fresh horses and provisions, I hurried off to meet them. — On the second day we met, a few miles below the forks of the Rio de los Americanos ; and a more forlorn and pitiable sight than they presented, cannot well be imagined. They msm ippear- ind we T»N YEARS IN OREGON. 42: were all on foot— each man, weak and emaciated, leading a horse or mule as weak and emaciated as themselves. They had experienced great difiiculty in descending the mountains, made slippery by rains and melting snows, and many horses fell over precipices, and were killed ; and with some were lost the packs they carried. Among these, was a mule with the plants which we had collected since leaving Fort Ilall, along a line of 2,000 miles' travel. Out of G7 horses and mules, with which we commenced crossing the Sierra, only 33 reached the valley of the Sacrimento, and they only in a condition to be led along. Mr. Fitzpatrick and his party, traveling more slowly, had been able to make some little ex- ertion at hunting, and had killed a few deer. The scanty supply was a great relief to them ; for several had been made sick by the strange and imwholesome food which the preservation of life had compelled them to use. We stopped and encamped as soon as we met ; and a repast of good beef, excellent bread, and delicious salmon, which I had brought along, was their first relief from the suflerings of the Sierra, and their first introduction to the luxuries of the Sacramento. It required all our philosophy and forbearance to prevent plent]/ from becoming as hurtful to us now, as scarcihj had been before. The next day, March 8th, we encamped at the junction of the two rivers, the Sacramento and Americanos; and thus found the whole party in the beautiful valley of the Sacramento. It was a convenient place for the camp ; and, among other things, was within reach of the wood necessa- ry to make the pack-saddles, which we should need on our long journey home, from which we were farther distant now than we were four months before, when from the Dalles of the Columbia we so cheerfully to(^k up the homeward line of march. Captain Sutter emigrated to this country from the west- ern part of Missouri in 1838-39, and formed the first settle- ment in the valley, on a lai je grant of land which he ob- tained from the Mexican G.»vernment. He had, at first, some trouble with the Indians ; but, by the occasional ex- ercise of well-timed authority, he has succeeded in convert- ing them into a peaceable and industrious people. The ditches around his extensive wheat-fields ; the plowing, har- rowing, and other agricultural operations, are entirely the 428 TBN TEARS IN ORKOOH. work of these Indians, for which they receive a very mode- rate compensaiton — principally in shirts, blankets, and other articles of clothing. In the same manner, on application to the chief of a village, he readily obtains as many boys and girls as he has any use for. There were at this time a num- ber of girls at the fort, in tniining for a future woolen factory ; but they were now all busily engaged in constantly water- ing the gardens, which the unfavorable dryness of the sea- son rendered it necessary. The occasional dryness of some seasons, I understood to be the only complaint of the set- tlers in this fertile valley, as it sometimes renders the crops uncertain. Mr. Sutter was about making arrangements to irrigate his lands by means of the Rio de los Americanos. He had this year sown, and altogether by Indian labor, three hundred fanegas of wheat. A few years since, the neighboring Russian establishment of Ross, being about to withdraw from the country, sold to him a large number of stock, with agricultural and other stores, with a number pieces of artillery and other munitions of war ; for these, a regular yearly payment is made in grain. The fort is a quadrangular adobe structure, mounting 1' pieces of artillery, (two of them brass,) and capable admitting a garrison of a thousand men ; this, at present, consists of forty Indians in uniform — one of whom Avas al- ways found on duty at the gate. As might naturally be expected, the pieces are not in very good order. The whites in the employment of Capt. Sutter, American, French, and German, amount, perhaps, to thirty men. The inner wall is formed into buildings, comprising the common quarters, with blacksmith and other workshops ; th<3 dwelling house, with a large distillery-house and other buildings, occupying more the centre of the area. It is built upon a pond-like stream, at times a running creek communicating with the Rio de los Americanos, which enters the Sacramento about two miles below. The latter is here a noble river, about three hundred yards broad, deep and tranquil, with several fathoms of water in the channel, and its banks continuously timbered. There were two ves- sels belonging to Captam Sutter at anchor near the landing — one a large two-masted lighter, and the other a schooner, which was shortly to proceed on a voyage to Fort Vancou- v-er for a cargo of goods. TEN YEAE3 IK OREGOK. 420 Since his carrival, several otlicr persons, principally Amer- icans, have established themselves in the valley. Mr. Sin- clair, from whom I experienced much kindness during my stay, is settled a few miles distant, on the Rio de los Amer- icanos. Mr. Coudrois, a gentleman from Germany, has es- tablished himself on Feather river, and is associated with Capt. Suiter in agricultural pursuits. Among other im- provements they are about to introduce the cultivation of rape -seed, [brasaica rapus,) which there is every reason to believe is admirably adapted to the climate and soil. The lowest average produce of wheat, as far as we can at pres- ent know, is thirty-tive fanegas for one sown ; but, as an in- stance of its fertility, it may be mentioned that Senor Val- ejo obtained, on a piece of ground where sheep had been pastured, 800 fanegas for eight sown. The produce being different in various places, a very correct idea cannot bo formed. An impetus was given to the active little population by our arrival, as we were in want of every thing. Mules, horses, and cattle, were to be collected ; the horse-mill was at work day and night, to make ^ afficient flour ; the black- smith's shop was put in requisition for horse- shoes and bri- dle-bits ; and pack-saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all the other little equipments of the camp were again to be provi- ded. The delay thus occasioned was one of repose and enjoy- ment, which our situation required, and, anxious as we were to resume our homeward journey, was regretted by no one. In the mean time, I had the pleasure to meet with Mr. Chiles, who was residing at a farm on the other side of the river Sacramento, while engaged in the selection of a place for a settlement, for which he had received the necessary grant of land from the Mexican government. It will be remembered f\at we had parted near the fron- tier of the states, and that he had subsequently descended the valley of Lewis's fork, with a party of ten or twelve men, with the intention of crossing the intermediate mountains to the waters of the Bay of San Francisco. In the execution of this design, and aided by subsequent information, he left the Calumbia at the mouth of Matheur river, and making his way to the head-waters of the Sacramento with a part of his company, traveled down that river to the settlements 4S0 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. of Nueva Helvetia. The other party, to whom he had coni- mitted his wagons, and mill-irons, and saws, took a course further to the south, and the wagons and their contents were lost. On the 22d we made a preparatory move, and encamped near the settlement of Mr. Sinclair, on the left bank of the Rio de los Americanos. I had discharged five of the party ; Ne?l, the blacksmiili, (an excellent workman, and an unmar- ried man, who had done his duty faithfully, and had been of very great service to me,) desired to remain, as strong in- ducements were offered here to mechanics. Altliiugh at considerable inconvenience to myself, his good co/iduct induced nie to comply with his request ; and I obtained for him from Capt. Sutter, a present compensation of two dollars and a half per diem, with a promisic that it should be increased to five, if he proved as good a workman as had been represented. He was more particularly an ag- ricultural blacksmith. The other men were discharged with their own consent While wc remained at this place, Derosier, one of our best men, whose steady g)oi conduct had won my regard, wanrlfcred otF from the camp, ana never returned to it again, nor has he since been heard of. — Fremont's Oregon. ,,, *i • 4., ■'.'