CIHM Microfiche Series (Monographs) ICI\AH Collection de microfiches (monographies) Canadian Inatituta for Hlatorical Microraproduction* / Inatitut Canadian da microraproductiont historiquu 1995 TMhnieil and Bib«a«raiihie Notn / NoMt Hchniqun at bibliographiqiiat Tha Inttituta ha> attamptad to obtain tha ban original copy available fof filming. Faaturas of tliit copy wtiich may ba bJMiainpliieally uniqua. whictl may altar any of Mm imagas in ttw raproduction. or which may lignifiuntly changa tha imial mathod of filming, ara chackcd balow. QColourad conan/ Couvertura da coulaur D Cotfan damagad/ Couvartura andommagia □ Covari raatocad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura raitaurtt at/ou palliaiUa □ Cam tith mining/ La titra da counmira manqua I I Colourad mapl/ D Cartas gtographiquas an coulaur Colourad ink (i.a. other than blua or Mack)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua Maua ou noira) Colourad platai and/or illustralioni/ Planchai at/ou illuitrationt an coulaur D Bound with othar matarial/ Ralii awe d'autrai documanti □ Tight binding may cauw shadowt or dittortion along intarior margin/ La raliura Mrria paut camar da I'ombra ou da la diitonion la long da la marga intiriaura Blank laam addad during rastoration may appaar within tha taxt. Whananr potsiMa, thaia ham baan omiltad from filming/ II la paut qua cartainas pagas blanchai ajoutiat ton duna raitauration apparainant dint la taxta maij, lonqua cala ttait ponibla. cat pagas n'ont pas M f ilm«as. D D Additional eommanti:/ Commantairss lupplamantairat: Thi, itam is fiimrt at tha r«luction ratio chackad balow/ C. document a., film* .„ „„ * ,„„„j„„ ,^^ ^. lOX en 14X 18X 1(X y XX L'Imtitut a nKTofilm* la maillaur axamplaira qu'il lui a M potsiMa da sa procurer. Las d«lailt da cet aient: □ Title pege of issue/ Pagedetitredelelivreiton □ Caption of issue/ Titre de depart de la li>raiton I I Mattheed/ I 1 Ganarkiue Iperiodiquesl da le livraison 22X 24 X 28 X 32 X Tha copy lilmad har* hH baan raproduead tlianki to iha ganareaiiY o(: National Library of Canada L'axamplaira filmt ful raproduii grica i la gtotrofit* da: Bibliotheque natlonala du Canada Tha imaga* appaaring hara ara lha ba*i quality poMibia Gonaidaring tha condition and lagibility of tha originai copy and in kaaping with tha filming eonwaet apacif icationa. Original copiai in printad papar covara ara filmad baginning with tha front covar and anding on tha laat paga with a printad or illuatratad impraa- ■ion, or tha back covar whan appropriata. All othar original copiaa ara filmad baginning on ttia firat paga with a printad or illuatratad impraa- sion, and anding on tha last paga with a printad or illuatratad impraaaion. Tha laat racordad frama on aach microficha shall contain tha symbol — ^ (moaning "CON- TINUED"!, or tha symbol V Imaaning "END"), whichavar applias. Las Imagas suivantas ont ttt raproduitai avac la plus grand sain, eompta tanu da la condition at da la nattatA da l'axamplaira film*, at an eonformit* avac las conditions du cenirat da fllmaga. Laa axamplairaa originaux dont la couvartura an papiar aat iniprimOa sont filmOa an commancant par la pramiar plat at an tarminant soit par la darniira paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraaaion ou d'illuatraiion. soit par la sacond plat, aalon la eaa. Toua laa autraa axamplairas originaux sont tUmtt an commancant par la pramMra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraaaion ou d'illustration at an tarminant par la darniAra paga qui comporta una talla amprainta. Un daa symbolaa suivants apparaitra sur la darniira imaga da ehaqua microficha. salon la cas: la symbola -^ aignifia "A SUIVRE", la aymbola ▼ aignifia "FIN". Mapa. plataa, charts, ate. may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratios. Thoaa too larga to ba antiroly includad in ona axposura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand cornar. laft to right and top to bonom. aa many framas as raquirad. Tha following diagrama illustrata tha mathod: Las cartaa. planehaa, ubiaaux. ate. pauvant aira filmto t daa taux da reduction diffOrants. Loraqua la documant aat trop grand pour atra raproduit an un saul elich*. il ast film* * panir da I'angla suptriaur gaucha, da gaucha i droita, at da haut an baa. an pranant la nombra d'imagaa nOcassaira. Las diagrammaa suivants illuatrant la mOtheda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 MICROCOPY lESOlUTION IBT CHAUT (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No. 2) ^IPPLIED IIVMGE In 1653 Eosl Mam Slrwt RocfiMfer. Ne* Corl. 14609 USA (716) *82 - 0300 - Phone (7'6) 288- 5989 -Fa. T 3?| j'QPS of m aipuGi^^* ^iy JC, '^^tCiyi^'ti.cLiycUx ■c^ ^U i?a<£' te.. fnt.«rf ac,or„ng to Act of tA. Porl/ament of Canada, in t„e y.a, taoi, by Emily Ferguaon at the Department of Agriculture h :'!^ ^ l^^ r The Impressions of Janey Canuck Abroad. > i / [ /- Ktattf Emily Ferguson Toronto, i <^^fi,^ .4 1/ PREFACE. 2^ HAVE not attempted in the following diary-aaapa and letters to write "a glorified guide book." but have rather preferred to touch on common- place euery-day topics that are qi''te beneath their dignity. Truth to tell there is but tittle in ■ .) semblance of novelty for the well-informed traveller, except perhaps a different insight, for we all see through our own particular prejudices and temperament. We LOOK physically but SEE mentally. This must be my plea for the re-weaving of old materials. E. F. July 15TH. 1898. PAVE YOU ever noticed Ihe abominable selfishness that distinguishes nearly all tourists in the first excite- ment of getting settled ? Bustling groups vie as to which shall prematurely kill the most stewards. In travellipg, one's virtues becomes physical rather than mental, and in spite of your most altruistic principles, it is astonishing how dis- astrously contagious becomes this low-minded, every-man- for-himself spirit. We interested ourselves in the partings : "When shall I see you again ?" How often is it repeated, and I think it is Kipling who says this is a question that lies very near to the hearts of the world. At six, on the morning of July 5th, we awoke to realize that we were steaming down the St. Lawrence, "The Gallia" having crept away from Montreal some time in the night. Quebec was reached early that afternoon, and looking out on the ancient capital, I found myself peopling it with the charm- ingly drawn characters of Gilbert Parker's Seats of the Mighty ; with "Master Devil" Doltaire, Captain Moray, Mathilde, Alixe Duvarney and Francois Bigot. It has been said that Quebec is the one /w/i/jt'rf city in the world, and Henry Ward Beecher declared that it was a bit of mediajval Europe perched on a rock and dried for keeping. This gaunt, grey rock is the centre milestone of Canadian his- tory. Around its war-scarred heights, how many storms of history have broken ! The blood of the stolid English and versatile French that blended on that dull September morn so long agone, was the good seed from which has .prung this THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEy CANUCK ABROAD. pas.ionate young Canuck, with his far-stre.chin^ arm. h- -Jhty threw, and sinews, and all his abound^ Lai ty ' nJ page .n our nat.on's story is so riveting and draLtic as this with h.s plamtee good healf what de monee can't g-ive - h.s "good trotter horse an' nice famme Canadienne " ^ ' AuxCoud'rt"''°'°''""'"''^"^'^'«'"^S'- P-l -d 'sle Aux Coudres come into view, and at Murray Bay the "first str Wet""''-'"'"' '"^"'° '"* -"''V of 'ife aboard •H, "^,t"'y"°"° "e homesick when we think of the rap'^'y -iengthening chain" that separates us from home in^ them "" "Z '"''^ ''="f-earf„l jokes about our berths caT, XperTur"r m""""^'''" ""' ^ ^'«<"° 'urn in and Whisper our 'Now I lay me," for after all it is our first trin rro^sX:-^" "^ '-' -' "^-^- '^« -p'«.--x Labrador that tract which Jacques Cartier brands as the land given to Cain, has been passed, and we begin to feel the swing of the sea. We watch the fast receding shores o he bre„d"of ''"''' Newfoundland, until „ is like*; view from .hfhaonI"T"^'""''''"''"'^""'"^''°""'° -«l- that name o71? ' '""™'''^' '' ^ "'"" °"^ ■ '"^^ """" '"e name^of pleasure, we are prone to afflict ourselves with much the mner womam can take no Turkish bath comparable with an ordinary dose of sea-sickness. The steamer groans, sfghs and grumbles in unison with me. I have nothfng mor ^ L anticipate m this life. My ut.er lassitude, mv complete THE IMPRESSIONS OF JA.NEY CANUCK ABROAD. collapse of body and soul indicated that the limits of human endurance have heen reached. The "large, airy stateroom" becomes a maddening cubicule and I strangle for a:r. I am in a floating hospital and there are dismal sounds of retching and wailing, of gasping and gurgling, notes of appalling mortal woe that are distressing in the extreme to hear. After awhile the "contrary winds" abate and I get a sharp appetite, but the very superior stewardess insists on the discipline of re- nunciation. It saves her trouble ; nevertheless it is a good axiom in travel to eat when you can. Thre is a fortune in store for the person who will write a practical book on "How to be Happy though Travelling." To a certain extent, there is an unavoidable familiarity on rt big liner. You drop your city-bred suspicions of every accidental acquaintance, and the company falls into parties. Natural selection is unconsciously established, and you find yourself more intimate with those whose tastes are congenial. The Padre says it is the old division of the bores and the bored. It do not think he means anything personal, but I must say he has got an aggravating way of letting his chair back to the remotest angle, or of scowling at me as his natural enemy. It doubtless secures him from troublesome intrusion and gives him time to be idle-very idle, or to think "long ong thoughts" about sermons and things. Early in the voyage we suffered much from the hoarse anguished bellow of the fog-horn, and presently found our- seves .surrounded by gigantic iceburgs. They are intensely m eresting studies of polar architecture. The ultra-nautical called them "berge." These shy, spectral apparitions, pallid and luminous as opals, with their indescribable,palpitating hues and polar breath, were strangely and irresistibly attractive. This proximity to "Greenland's Icy Mnuutains" w.-,s over- whelmingly oppressive, and the realization of our human mallness and incapacity was humiliating and entire. — -■ "-IWUCK ABB., "..LTV"' '• >" .nr'°"'- °" <•'.£.*""• "■ « ^ong for our "Oil wliaf „,, sea, - —iier (i, ''<"• those U.I, P^tbsinth.l ''°^°d°«'n to th. T'l'ii you h * P''"ff«r her /overs. h I THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. r The slow-widening dawn oper i vi-ta of loveliness that is only hindered by clouds sod.licate that they might be angel's robes. There is no horizon, for the sky and sea are one. The disquietude and pain, the grisly terrors of death and disease that hold their earth-born clods in morbid thrall, are all fallen into this "sea of glass mingled with fire." It is a vision that overawes your pettiness. It means that you sit as lightly to the material as you may ever hope to, 'till this mortal shall have put on immortality. It is the quickening of the soul. * « » • There was a score of English people aboard, and they talked of Canada, not quite as "the blawsted colony, " but rather as believing Mrs. Jameson's statement that Canada is "a small community of fourth-rate, half-educated people, where local politics of the meanest kind engross the men, and petty gossip and household affairs the women." They spoke of our gruflT- ness and bad manners. Perhaps it is so. I have not seen enough of the world to institute comparisons, and it may be that we Canadians need the warmth of a more genial atmos- J. here to soften our brusquerie. They look upon us as more akin to the Americans than the British. One gentleman pressed the matter rather far when he said that we had the same nasal monotone and the tiresome habit of braggadocio. In the future he will have absolutely no doubts as to Canadian bluntness, for I told him that Miss Isabella Baird, his countrywoman, had given as the result of many years travel, the interesting decision that while the Americans were nationally assumptive, the English were personally so. The stewards know the character, habits and idiosyncrasies of all the passengers. It is wise to be good to them. The chief steward is the major-dome of the vessel. He is all 6 THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEY r.M„. J^ Wgy CANUCK ABROAD. S:-:.i.i-:::iP-™-eMhei_„3.o„ of .He gracious acceptance of my poor offerir" """' ''°"°"'' "^ "''^ -dsoulP Hewilifin^dHerrar f:„::jr'''" """^ her and deftly arrange tHe oillnw u ""^ '"S' »'«'"' andho.boui„on,a„Lm:upp rTn^Het*':,' "'"^ '"'^"'' ha.r ,n moments of unutterablThlan toe " "" '" """=' -i.^^:::rr?H~tH';::r^-"°'-'^ -p^uftne^irnr-^^----"^"" step down before yoJ. ""''""' ''"' """ another wi„ ary '^Mr:.:^*;^ j:r;or r- r "-"'- -'-'- the subject being tHe run pi 22'. "' ''°°' '" "P"^''"- and -:?^;^j:l'::i;-:^;-r r/'^r^^-- the very tones of the sea. With weird ■ "^"'''"' '" ped after the ship's offal. 7^^^^!!!'"^- "'" '"^^ "'P" were like those of girls skating on otolr.r "'""'"^"'^ THe brown, precipitous banks of "n,. c loomed up vaguely in a liiac haze. A^ dusk .r!:r " '^'^" umber clouds hid it from our view. ^ ' ''"'^'"' "^ *» t THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. fi Early next morning we skirted the Isle of Man and some- one quoted Wordsworth's lines : "Bold worJs affirmed in Jay. when faith was ,lronK, That no adienturer's bark had power to gain These shores if ho approached them bent on wrong ; For suddenly up-conjured from themain ■ Mist, rose to hide the Land-thai searched though lon^ And eager, night be still pursued in vain." An upstanding rock with a hole through it, is "the eye of man, and as the vessel proceeded on its way, the man .shuts his eye after the manner of a doll that goes to sleep. It was too deliberate to be construed into a wink. The softest of the silken waters is the Irish sea, and acutely green, like an ocean of melted emeralds. Steaming down the Mersey, we passed through New Brighton, where the lands were thronged with children, and on mo Liverpool. There are no "Sky Scrapers" in this wonder- ful city and all the houses appear uniform in height. A tender was sent out to bring us ashore, v/e were transported with an ill-smellingcro^vd of steerage passengers and quickly landed some place-I could not just say where- all I knew w« that the gangway slid out, we were crushed down by its crowd, and stood for the fitst time on the shores of England. The trip from Montreal had occupied ten days and fourteen hours, ' The process of removing the luggage was long and tire- some, and we passed the time in watching a confused heap of towzle-headed uncared-for youngsters, balancing on an iron rail which edged the dock. They kept us in a state of nervousness and trepidation, and then considering their acrobatic feats were worthy of monetary reward, extended grubby little digits for pennies and followed us with a fire of appeals. ^"'^'^s:,:X^Z^:^^^<'^ cursory ,u„cc Z^„ 'he cabman. J „„ fl.H !""" °"""^« '» 'he mercv „? ^ Liverpool, J„,v.3R„..,8g8 "ward of hi„. We were ^lad t^L: """'■'"" ■"«"« "o and move our party of five intl > ! "* ""'='' ^ '^^'"S wolf living «/■ ^J„J '"'° '""ff-ffs where we arf „o^ For the rent of two h.H, •■attendance" we pay three tTnTa""''' ""'"^ -<""■ with own food which theLndlady cook IT' ^' --"-e or care of the rooms, is what is me 'th T"' ""' -"h the ^as, the washing of bed-linen a"d Cean" ^«;"''-"" Coa, '"deed, the extras become the bMl "^ "'"""'^ "« extras THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. ■- A a\?°" "P''""^'= ">»" °'"- »y»««'" Of boardinB.and I find .t decidedly mconvenient to thu, assume the responsibility of catering to a family when I am travel-tired and a ,tran«r in the city. '• A dinner deferred maketh the heart sick, but there was no help for It. I had to sally out and forage for provisions. This meant visits to the butcher, baker, grocer and dairyman. Still the system has its advantages : We can consult our tastes and purse m the matter of food, and have as much privacy as pos- sible outside our , wn home. Our landlandy has a strident voice. She daily pours out the whole Commination service on the little, work-stained slavey overwhelmingly cumbered with much serving. She frequently' came into my room to tell me that our little girls were too noisy and finally that she really disapproved of children alto- hX v. '°"," °"'^ "P''" ""^ P'^f"""" "S'^' «"d a»"re dWerent. "" " ' ^'" ^"^ '°°""' '' "''^'" ''''^« t""" My shopping expeditions were carried out in a state of bewilderment ; not only because of the maddening currency bu by «aso„ of the names of articles that hitherto I thought , knew. How ..s I to know that a ■•pottle" was a peck tha sold by the pound, and that a layer-cake was a ' 'jam-sandwich " Neither could I say whether I wanted a "quar ern" or ..half- quartern" loaf of bread, or whether , preflred malt or date I paid 30 cent, a pound for steak, and then my landlady with a„ , ,, 3„ifl.,^„ ^^ ^,^^^ .^ ^^^ J dy sTn shel'";" hT^'"" """ entirely beyond her comprehel ^on^ he declared they were .'mashed-up stuff," and qui'e unfit >0 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. endives and Brusselspru,? if; 7' '""*' '"""'" .n,oo. and or s.H dTCs f^ZT^lj:^::^^ C«-/. ecstacy. On ,h. whole the edibles o. England ZZ aTd" ;= ;X";" ^-'^^- -' -"-^ -"•" - vaT-: went to Keswck to attend the great annual convention My first impressions o( England have not been entirelv happy ones. Everywhere, I noticed flashly-dressed woVen vho ^"n::::;'"^ """ "-'""^'■■"^'^ "'"'p"-"'- "her:, 1° o e- h:n7'"^ ''"'"''' '° ^" """-"-"» =>- 'heir offer! 1*7 ''""■^«'"""' 'o -in. Occasionally one of these pleasant-mannered Delilal.s is attired in widow's weeds but , by no means a. mournful as she is dressed. Th sTi e with i v,le wage must be a great temptation to kitchen d udge w o see only the fine clothes and not the sad./f««fe Pnv»?^"""'''""' """ "'""'"^^ P°°' ^'^ P='i"f"l'v in evidence Poverty.d,storted children with extended hands dog you foo ' s PS w.th appalling persistency. If ,ou are heedles , hey n erd"t; s """'' '^"■' '^'-Poo'equivalentfora.-du e ' Indeed, these young gamms do their best to fulfill their baptis- mal vow by usmg a great deal of "th. vulgar tongue." r«l.!r",''"''* u """"' ''^'' °"'^ '" ^"""^'^ ='"'1 '^"g^'ed skirls reeled foul-mouthed and beer be-sodden from the Lw g og' genes The men looked positively oo.y, and remind dyo^u^f «uirc7mTol™"''"^°"''''^^°"'>- -'<'-''- "-' '"e The saloons seem to be innumerable. Over their entrances are the words -Shade-" or ..Vaults" and who shall say inap propnately ? ,t is not t. e odour of sanctity that on. gets XL of, m pass.ni. their fou! -.u sloppy bars. IHK IMPRESSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. If environment moulds a people, one needs to be endowed with a large hopefulnesi to predict a bright future for the poorer classes of Liverpool. Their conditin'i cannot be conumplated without moral aud intellectual disr ,y. With the lean wolf of hunger always crouching at the door ; sleeping in squalid homes where cleanliness and decency are impossible, and livint,'in foul streets with so many tempting facilities to vice, the deteriora- tion of mankind, both spiritually and physically is inevitable. I was much struck by the solidily and finish of the City itself. The buildings are of massive strength and durability ; They are built for etornity. The abominable bituminous smoke, that grimy incense of half a million chimneys, gives the City a gloomy, brown atmosphere and dirties the blue skies them- selves. Riding on omnibuses is a source of unflagging pleasure to me. The drivers have graduated in the rough college of prac- tical experience and were veritable Doctors in Philosophy. They are sitting encyclopedias, and are able to post you in all the "wrinkles" of sight seeing, whereto go, what to see, and how much to pay. The omnibus horses mostly come from Canada, as do the heavy draught horses. Staid, magnificent, sober- minded, incapable of surprises, with their glossy hides and well- padded contours, they are a credit to our young colony. Liverpool, being the greatest port in the world, the "sight" of the city is the docks. In order to see them, I took a trip on the overhead Railway, starting at Dingle Station and going to their terminus at Seaforth Sands. I entered a noisy little Juggernaut and was at once plunged into "a horror of great darkness," from which I emerged to find myself speeding breathlessly past the interminable shipping and turmoil of the city's front. For miles along the yellow Mersey, the docks ex- tend in one line of grey granite, broken only by huge gates which are opened when the tide is at its flow to admit vessels 11 ora,pecifico.jec,. InoTZZT,, f"" '"'' "-' "•n«dof„pai„. Fur,her on ".':»,•'''""'" """ "• wa.blas,edou.o, ,he rock and i, T'"""" ^"=''- *"''='' Paraffire. A, Prince's Docic Un' """" "" ""' "'""S* of "Landing S.ag." a, which oce :;,;;: ''"■'"" f"' '■ - 'he There „ a docl. for ,h. lifcboa. se/ " "'''"° ■•'"'' ''^P''"- ■" others cargo boats are ade„ or .J".'"" Z' ''" '''' P°''" = flanked by imposing „,,^j;;'';'«"d.n,.. These docks are a.an,iI,io„dol.ars^ 'n.o .heir ca"? "''"'' "'' " ">-" ~^>ing grain, -acco, co.ranZ.h:rrch::re°^" -a:::,:::rh::p?:;::^^-;;-''pjnes .ha. ,., i„H„, dock,, was a sudden and sub e e ix"" ', "' '^^^"' "^ «" ''^ papers are complaining of a pes, c,..{"" """" ""^ "««■»■ e>a.m.ha..hese,i„yannoAs wi.h ,"he "" "°^'""'''"' -" had a free passage (o England ir,h- '^^""endous .hirst, My brain was bLiidered^bT h;. l^ ^Y^.'^-'"'-" ''-"ber. — o.heconversa.io^::.--,---^.Hp ,„. . "^ ^*"«' peregrinations I -d me ,o St . James' was at fi-aves reaching one time a stone-quarrv and m» up many fee. in L rock o„ " '" '"" "'' '^"^" ^"^"-^^ beads, or of plas.er-of-paris unlr^'T """ ""'"'^^ °'" "'-^ >as.ein.ended,o be highly decora.iv n "^^^-"'^-'i- of the ■nscrip.ions were indecipherabe. ,"'"" "' ""•" ''^"^ 'onal muse and ,he ••mon'!,: „ .^ ,' :/;,'r" ^ ""P-f«- — edby.l...amme.sofrhym;rd^:.,^X;,::^ THE IHPRISSIONS 07 JAKEY CANUCK ABROAD. '3 are often fulsome and extravagant. Among the stones, I looked for the one described by Nathaniel Hawthorne when he visited this cemetery in 1853. On it were the words. "Here rests in pease a virtuous wife. " Sarah Biffin, the celebrated miniaturist is buried here. She was born without hands or arms and painted by her mouth. The Corporation of Liverpool are about to have this cemetery filled in with clay. Sometimes we spend our afternoons in Toxteth Park, where the children never tire feeding the swans and water-hens. I went twice to hear Dr. John Watson, better known as Ian Maelarcn. Hii Church was densely packed on both occas- ions. The creator of Dnini'hcugh, Duclor MacLure ami Jamie 5au/'a/' did not disappoint me. In his own words they were "raci bonnie sermons" that I heard. Dr. Watson has suffered persecutions long drawn out, because forsooth, his novels are not doctrinal. His flavz-picking brethren have been pouring out vitriolized tirades on this theological Prot"' ;al but as he is a man of strong convictions, and I should lu^.^e as unyielding as an axiom in Euclid, it is not nkely he will be frightened or bowowed out of his opinions. Before ihe sermon, he offered a short extempore prayer which was an entreaty for blessing on those who had lost their reason ; a benediction for all near to death ; mercies for any name that might be repeated. His subject was "Successful Life," and his text, "Behold this dreamer." He said had Joseph lived in the Victorian era a book for young men entitled, "From a Jail to a Throne" would have been written, and his life held up ns a model of a successful career. This spirit has been satirized by .Matthew Arnold, and we are spt to sneer at Smiles' worthies, but if material success be not always honorable, neither is material failure ; "Where- fore," he said, "without a blu-;h, I shall proceed to preach on Ihe excellency of success." ■""^finable so.e.ht^trcaM ? '" '""^^- "« "- - ^"t? -rendered unconditional' !„ T"'"'"' '"""^nce. They --y..o.d,vi,hhighC;';, 7 eanin^ forward ,o catch ".ssahttielater. With his pathos 1,°"'^' '" ^"'P"' "'^ P-- hyouched the cord., of every heai h' '"" ''"''''' """- '' ^^-P^'"^'-, and in,e„ec>uaM;;-a "LH ''"''"'^- P--'- ^'■- VVatsjn is one of ih^ wonder What O'clock it io;r;r "'°^^ '■^'-- -ver n M "' '"'^» -""ins, "n ,r. '" P^°P'«-"o. ^cA"". .n,b,ea„dairy sern-tors-i^d : 7 ""^"^^ = '"^^ -e his «^'.>at Kmerson said of Whitman 'f'fi/'" °"'^ '""y "^ him ""Hfr^ said incomparably Jlr "' '"'"'"P-«bIe things .L'verpoS'ttrerrbrD:^! "' ^^--^ '^^ "Bishop „f -o H hca,reH,iofin' \°„V';;^ famous champ. ' ''"' '" spite of his age and f.Z ^ '* P'-odigiously and stately carriage- hi, L„H "'''"""S' P-'^erves an erect -"h wrinkles. Although he B^Th' ^''"''''" '^" '» ""P"" "- -'" '"e snap and spirit of outhhTs^ TT"- " *^'>^' ""P^"'' P-^ent. The sermon „,as^r.:.;:;;>:^ ■;;-'. ^^ -'' 2"' "-^ -"- innovation a,, a.,,;;;^-^^^^ „ "~^x;:i::;irt::r : ^^» --". p^otesis ■'-."■^ 'he Established Chur ^ H '"""""'""^^ -e .nder- '" "'"alism did not permit hL pallfar""""'''""''"'"*^ '"'^'■'"y ■^"— He hi, str'night o ,T '; C^' °^ ^'^^^ °ver th^ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '5 I went to a Ritualistic Church also, to see celebrated what is termed "High Mass." In the vestibule was a holy-water stoup for the use of the faithful. No imprudent commingling of males and females is allowed in this church, for the sexes are ieated on opposite sides, the sheep from the goats. To over- step the line of demarcation would be too bold an act to even contemplate. There was an altar to the Virgin Mary, so that Oxen/iam's words about the Spaniards -n Wcslmird Ho; "They pray to a woman — the idolatrous ra.scals," would apply to these worshippers. Each aliar had candles of "un- bleached wax" and other importations of Roman Materialism. "Matins" were "said" at half-past ten, the service lasting twenty-five minutes. There was no singing. So miserably mumbled were the lessons, that I was quite unable to glean the faintest idea or what the cleryman was reading. It sounded like a theorem. ^' Much to my sut^iise the clergy retired at the close of the morning prayer and as the congregation did not move, I sat on quietly. This service w.is merely prefatory, a necessary inconvenience, to the Communion service which followed. A few minutes later, a person of ambiguous sex, dressed in a cassock, surplice and red girdle, entered and lit the candles. He bowed to the altar with that shame-faced air a ritualist adopts as compared with a Roman Catholic, "frightened," like Johnson, "at his own temerity." .Vnother pause, when the doors of the vestry were thrown open and a magnificent individual with trimmings of scarlet and lace, entered swinging a censer. In his wake came the Cruciferand the choristers with banners, two Clergymen, the Gospeller and Epistoler, and lastly a most ornate person with his hands clasped as in prayer and showing the whites of his eyes. His pose smacked of "professional piety," or what is more vulgarly called clap-trap. His white satin robe was stiff with embroidery, and he wore something {! cannot say what) -on his luck ■ it was more like an inverted "■«".-.,.■..»;;:•;:;'',»•.•'"""« "...:»« -'ruM but -^ .''"yues , It was playinc^ at r»r ■ "•"^'°" of tableaux but admire (he ,|,:,| / "''"S M religion. Still i u Pi-ostrations on the stoni "'""d-vessels burst Ah , by ""-erouspo ,„M°" "T""'"' °' '"= ^"ancel were foM ! -'-'y .nvial and 'vulgar ' '"^ ^'-''-f incense, had been if Outward '^"ly religion. WenT. "."'"'"'" ^^"*?-". 'hen her. ■ UeanFarrar has written "Th/ ' "°' *^=" dignified :;:;-4'^:^j:------:wasp:^^;r™ ""^ ^^"htest attempt a, or.toTl; .T'T ""'""" -""out y- B> way c^ spiriiual pabulun, f THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. •7 the preacher instructed us as to when, and under conditions, we might eat meat. We toolt the wine and wafer by proxy, none of us having an opportunity given us to partake of it. This church was showered by stones on- the next Sunday, by the Evangelical pugilists of the Church Militant and the clergy roughly handled, for it would appear that the dogs of war are loose, and the t id is not yet. Their rage, as exhibited on this occasion is, however, neither dignified nor discreet, and it is to be hoped these tactics will be discontinued. Such "zeal is not according to knowledge." The rough goblin of public opinion as voiced in the newspaper contends, that the Establish- ed Church is hopelessly entangled in the meshes of traditional absurdity ; is burning out the dregs of the oil in her cruse— is singing her swan-song. We prefer rather to believe that Miller is right when he says : "The present admiration for the mediaeval cannot be other than a transitory streak of fashion, for the shadow on the great dial of human destiny cannot move backward." fc^ Wedneseay, AiG. ja. It was raining piteously when we left Liverpool. The soor or "black" dirtied our faces and linen, and hurt our eyes. For the superfluous services of opening the cab door, a loafer asked a half-pennv, but one soon grows impassive to the wheedling; whine of the charity seeker. ^mall. A„arro.p,,,,;;7J^°'-;"*h'ch looked extremely "hich the compa„L„./ope; Z ""'""' "' ">« <=oach, off w.thout our indispensaole -cow cLlT"^ Tu"""^ ""finished called a. .guard." Vou can only see ht ,.'' '°'^""'" - ■mposs.ble to pass from one ca^ t„ «">« stations, for it is "•eendofthetrain.andasthrnSneT; "■• • ^^ "^^ -" Mvung „s tail round the curves, we fee " '°°«-l°'"'ed vebebra We had read of English trains U .11 ' """ "'"' '''■«'""y- suffering increased.le felt It Rut T' ''""^'^' " ""' ^^ ""' better as .'carriages of damned soulst'th'-H """'"*" " - graves. We counted thirty tunnls , ' ^H ^" "' '"^'^ "*" The.r monstrous gloom is opp" sive ., " ^'"" '"'"■ -ev^er to go under grouud untify^re pu't' th'ereT" '''"' We X fhYmX-'^Se:"; ZT, H '''°"^'' ''' -""- ■• ■n which are held the tea-pot' cup a„d ' ^°" "'"P^^""«nls and butte ed bread ; it cost a shiUi "' "we"' "'T ^"^ ^"^- ment our tea by purchasing baskets of T T' ""' '° *""?"■ an .mprc/ement on our system of """'''^"i"- This is junction, indigestible chunks of water"lot""H ^°'"'"^ " ''°"'« your throat with hot tea. ■^'^■"'8-&ed-p,e, and parboiling The landscapes are full of interest T, « ,. by hedges of box and hawthorne th '' '^"''' Partitioned g-ardens free from litter ; the oarl- 'l.l, . ^ ""^ "'« * "'k- and the tiny farmhouses' wi^e " ^^rd^d " "' • ''' ''°'"^' warped roofs were pleasing noveltie to ""P-P'^^^ed, time- turfed lawns too. and garden, whl ,";'■ ^''"' '^« =<'"0''th The English do not ga^herTnltr b^Th"' '''"'' ""'«-• >nto stacks or ricks, which are thatched T, ^"'"'' '" P"^" mottled with sheep, usually penned behinir "'""'"'""''^ «^^ work made from split hazels Th. f '"'" °^ basket- (called sheep-hurdles) so as to be e."";" "l""'' '" ^^<="''- 's grazed clean. "^"'"^ """"■d when one spot THB IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 19 The graveyard seems to hold "the great majority," for they are more populous than the villages. We are surprised at the scarcity of the orchards and streams, whie'i are so important features in our Canadian scenery. Th., fences of warm-colored brick are tapestried with lichens and tender parasites, ivy, fern and myrtle grow in their chinks and add an air of softness to the harsh rock-masses. No stray blots of ugliness disfigure the country: even along the railway the waste places have been made beautiful. It has been pithily remarked that England is thoroughly groomed, for here Brute Nature has long been subject to the hand of man. The fields appear to be perfected by a hairdresser rather than a plough-man. They are combed, and brushed and pomatumed, and coiflured. They are as formal and precise as stage scenery. It was a mean view of London we got on our way through to the sea. The train passed underground most of the way, only emerging occasionally to run on a level with the house- tops. It left an impression of mediocre streets, congested brick and mortar, chimney-pots, red tiled-roofs, grime and sordidness. Being the day before Bank Holiday, that we arrived at Southend-on-Sea, we had great difficulty in getting a place wherein to stow ourselves. Finally we secured three rooms at WestclilT, a pretty suburb away from the noise of the "trippers," who were already pouring into the Town in thousands On Bank Holiday, the trains brought one hundred and fifty thousand of the laboring class from London, and so we made the ac- quaintance of a "'Arry," and "'Arriet." 'Arry, who is-always crop-headed, is attired in a Derby hat and bell-mouthed trousers; 'Arriet in wide-leaved headgear.an enormous structure-trimmed with an elaboration of velveteen, feathers and flowers. This pretentious hat, she wears jauntily cocked on the side of her head and let me parenthetically observe that her millinery is usual/y rented at son, ,. — — — -^ plan r " •*' "o much a w»»i, — .>""far and coarse .h';;^^^'-" ^oodWook J' ^ ""^"""^ "s'alter„;y..sheh, T ^'■' ^""don's bro„^ ' ""^y a™ a/I ^^;Maun-efd:stt:ar^:':r' -.„,'::::■:;-• ;^--« She probably has h. ''■"'■csome ,o,>;f f ^ " ^""J what High-kickin^ and d/ """" ""' "-'y do no ■ ""'"^derie. " Waar.obe'h :lt"r^- "'■^" ^"^ 's n^'r-Zhe surface. ^'"""^^- HerpriceT ' r"'^'"^"'»- She L;":"^ "'^^'"'^^ "or fantastic. K?hfuT '" ''^ ^^''^C^av ' • - — 'he beach, •i.... "^""^""y attitudin,-... / "'^ '^ "either light lUt ^ t,. I. "•"" '" 'he saltatr,„ ' ■"' 'dances with It • "'» youth -.■n,s:arr:^'r;r"°""'-^°esto., ■■expectable mechani^ ''^^- An,o„„ '° "'*''« "P the s*el. -'ves on the sands:;;" ''''" ^"-4 S "r" "'" «"" bringing sea Th ' ^°^ ">« draupht^ r ^ "'■^"='' them. '•'-.th%a;ejart:?r'^'''-p'«. -n/r'™"' '"« "-f- ^one to Canada and Lr"""""' 'heir i/°" '""^ -ith '^ho settled at Barrie°"'"'^^*«^egoin^L?'''' *''° have so thev ,Wi^.. .^'"^ '""'e of the J"^ °°' ^ut their brn.N.. answer them i^a .^'7. ^'^ "-vo, e^ fZ,. '""^^ "'' -'■■able, isat least ex L'Tnd' "^^' -^"'ch ^f '^^ -" /ou "■'e and original. "°' entirely '" .'he color-splashed -..ering .•iTjrT:'-";'? /"-^^ .here a.e ''^^r.et; sea-flushed ^1 ""^"^ engaged T ..'u°'" "^ "-dy-legs and rolling"'^,,; . T. '^'"' Aap^nJ^tr"^" THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 21 rascally.look „g sharps with unpleasant leers, and multi not parfcularly edifying, or take a turn on the "roundabout" and thus sohct qualmishness for a mere song. "Oh - if you w,ll only walk into my parlor," cries the m.^n of ihe c no" «al'd"?H "' 'f ^ '''•"''' ''"' '"" '" '"'"'" -" '^y 'o -der! stand the opticalness of it. EnJn^d ^'""'"f°"' °f poverty need deter no one, for in For'^this'trnr"/''''''""''^^'"^ '"'""^ °f " f-""'*.'- an an ' le '^ """'^ ^°" "^^ ""^ » '"y-trumpe", Z fu ' """ " ''°"- B«i"ff f^n^ales, we could on the r.otous man who dodged the cricket b-,11, e™:ritv1 "" '"""■ "'^ """'""^ -- « reve^Itio dextenty, for no one secured a pri^e. We pottered around the raree shows and expressed our superlative admiration in copper com. A gypsy told me ..all the things that ever I did"' We «ere merry w,th swarthy ragamuffins and their monkeys; wVth harequms and burnt-cork comedians. The pennyin't ."lot machmes wrote us love-letters, told our character", fortun s band'' ' rj"^"' "" '""'">■ '"' "ames of our second hus! need to take anx.ous thought for the morrow, it is all explained to-day, * An entertainment of the '.variety- order was in full blast p.rm,scuous . The pr.ncple feature seemed to be the dancing T"E IMPBESS.ONS OR JANEV CAXfc, K AnROAD. °f -^^ning out of them Vh »reaterd,ni,„|,ie. in the ,v,v moving: picture, sportive liih„ " "'■'"' a livin-, fortunate that her n,I|. 1 "''"' ''^"^ '=''-'^'^- ' " «- ='«s-.en,„ht,:;.:^::,rhr;zrH"r"^""-" ^ntortions, and bacchantic leans w . ""P-P'"^' '"'''''>■ ™ost girl, would hesitat be ore I ° """" ' '''''"''''" "-" >-n^ -nton. She wou d ,a„d o^h T^ ""'"" '" ''^ '"'^ tenJe.1. much after the stvleof a otir of "' """ """ '^^ ^'»- 'o the ground, and only ine bid h ""T """ "'"^ ''"'-' -St, she performed a rhyZic Ins ■; "'■ •'''^'' " ''"'"'= Paniment in slow /„„J Th T^' " '° '^ ^"""^ •''='=''"> in voluminous drrpt:CJ,;/''"-r''""^ '"^''^'^ ""'^ '-^' p-andwavin,;::r,:::::x'::: i:r':^,r'" " •"-- performance was the elaboration o vh^^ t"'."""- "" "Love", and wa, well-marked with Z """""""^ '^^"^J sensuousness and the ecs Ji' ■^""P'""-''. 'antali.ed dances of the Oriental onVin ""^ "•^' "^'""fT -o 'His SjoS !:;f;:::r:::^7 — '■'"-■'. a service. f.r in young soldie'r from G aU : w ; Z7 T- "'^''"' '° "■^■"•- '^ he was a soldier of th Ki„l T "<='=P=--"" '"r at the drunken thron,,, and H ' °"' '""'^'^^ endeavoring to follorr th st "" o^ .,'"' """ "■'"^ work-stained, thorn-crowned carpe Ue' vn "".'"^"S^-"-". w.re not reversed nov.adays forTt l"i ""'' '"'"'"^^ ana-n:ne are Without the ,Ld,':::;:;.:t:r;'^:^^ "'-'>- an day they had t^l^en , n" ^ ' T" '""''''"'''■ ''' -els Of beer Which h.d,;e,::;:,,:^-:;,-:t;:.-^- i T..E IMPRESSIONS CF J.SKy ,^^^.,^ ^„„^,,„ a lively demonstration of "midnieht shout =.n i T -„a„d,o.t.,..ndane,setHff;:^trjr^S onthebeach'in dreamy nt^ 'r;!!"^;"^^ """-"P-^ .He Busy .ee whose ^Lin, eTamp/e wa^H d^T^l.^^S;' young eyes and have learned to emulate the poor slutrrd and what a world it is to rest and dream in I am I^ «at hins in lazily contented fashion, the efforts of the bairnies i , ;=: -Kt A:sr Ik:-'*;: »,, - r ":' ■■"" J .. ""••■<»r,c, d" , set It about with ^«ng..^"^ ZZ! ^"'^ "' '""""■ ' "" "f attheSheerness forts and d^tn f""""'!"? exercise- .o-n,orrow. '"deed ^'4' *^^"r°.r ;'"''" '■■' "'^ "^•- least important in the world L. „ *^Y'"' """''* '^ ""• "-e "•f« - happy a. that of a .horoi^h'S Jit'."" '""' " "" Wednesday, Aug. 31st. ^^^^Ui,h is a ntt.e«.hi„. Village that sieep, near Had,ei,h ^^eylJS:!:^^. --;^^^«^Hern,en »ho ,00. as if waiting the flow'of tide 'to seVLt'f ' 1[°"" '""' '" "^ -"' Others busy thamselve Indin; ,7 ""=" "^"'"S" g™"nds. fellow tells me about .'.heTen," f' "^ "^"^' """ ""e old The Shrimp is a tiny coIsi^oTrnVTrUh'"';:^ '^ ''"■'""'^■ fine-meshed net, in the shallows at the ThaL' " ?"^ '" " ■s to be boiled alive and sent Jtol , "'°""'- "» fa'* fisher-folKs live i„ quaint one'-^oed C"°" "'"''' ^"^ ."leaves, dormer windowj and roots of AT """ P^°J«- tide, and for a mile out the mud bT^ ''"• " '^ ^^b of turbid, beer-colored pudd s dotthel' 7" ""''"'• "^''P' ""'"« with tucked up skir's, we sthe' !, u ^'^-'-'ed, and -.chtHe,rey.backedUs::Xdrn: th"''"^ '''''' -" w.th weird booming cry We r„ T °"*" « ""'"m and jelly-fish, fronds of cr^pv "1" 'T"'"'™" '^'"' "" miscellanies. "^^ "a-weed, mussels and ocean "i "i - _2^l;^^^;^^^^-=- death," the maniac ferocity of his Lr f"""™ ""d heroic hi" little flock, all go to make u! ,"" '"" "" ''^°">' "^ •P'-«ode, in the history of En^T °^ "" ""»' '""^'""^ General Booth has a seve! h !. . "'"'^^"'^J- N«" "y 'Hrge brickfields. We rTde h '"' f^rm-colony and waning twilight and are JatchfuTn'M""' ''"^"'" '" '"« ''"- the road, for the outlol u ° '"" "^°"' """horses on English roads are lre;;:dr "j','''^'"''''^-™-- The metaled and admirably adapted for wheeling -h:^:::^rS'rsL:^^'""''-^-^"''-^"-'-'--x nefarious ends than doTey rid^V?" "'j-^/^^yhave no more "range land we may "com. Hk^JnT " '" """°""''- '" » ' go riding there are ml °""' '° '''?«"•" When al-vaysselecta thick skinner'?'"" '°' ""' '^'°"' ""' I «^Hom , have chriifd^/lrTar •■ Tt' '''''' '""' ^ntours, but might rather be described f !' "° '"''''"' raw-boned. His gait is limniL ^^ "dgy-spined and and as opinionated a rfi'tZH-"'""'^''- "' '^ '"■"?-" without his good cuTli:iese;he7o:'r ""'""'• "^ '^ "" most overwhelming vilificatioTndLslutelv""' ""'" '"^ surprises. ansolutely impervious to .HinAef:in':L^::r::me '^°°' .'^"^' ^^^"> -- same time giving it as her opinion that 36 Lit THE IMPRESMONS OF JASEY CANUCK ABROAD. I! lie intends goini,' to roots, for he is a recalcitrant beast and persists in stamlins; sloclc-still. The wily wench only beats him as a matter of form, for she knows that these vigorous hints make no appreciable difference. When the shower of blows have ceased, without any warning,-, Isr.iel nikes a sudden dart and is off at an alarmins: p.ice. I find myself thrown for- ward on his neck which I lovinj,'ly encircle with my arms, and then hold on like grim death. The donkey-girls laugh immojeratcly and so do 1, till presently my hair bohs down my bHc;<, my har is left behind, and breathless but happy, we run the round of the block and deposit our penny in the tin full two rods ahead of all rivals. Good o'd Israel ! While not quite as exciting, the pleasures of sea-bathing are equally keen. But here, in blissful colonial ignorance we offen- ded the English proprieties for the Padre accomr; n: u ,is to o.,r matutinal bath which is not the rule-not even the exception in England. Such naughty, uncivilized doings are relegated lo all the rest of the world. I asked a lady the why and wherefore of it, and she assured me that the real reason was because the English women had shockingly bad figures. While it is quite true, that there is but little mystic seductiveness about the average form, this is hardly a vauu reason, for their cl-|hy bathing-suits make the ungainly figure passable, and on the other hand, cover the supple, sensuous curves of the uncorseted Venus. The children are thoroughly enjoymgthe surf-bathing. The pliant arms of Neptune embrace our fry of mermaids with great gentleness, and again in a boisterous mood, he throws them from his health-giving embraces, panting and gasping on the sand. Sometimes, we go to the swimming baths, where we are not encumbered with too much clothing and where there are few onlookers to regard us stolidly. We splash about like water-spaniels, bob like corks, climb the ropes and then step f THa IMPUBSSIOXS OF JANKV CANtiK AUROAl). f out to be briskly ruhbeJ il.nvn, leelirii,' that at last wc h: .e disirovcrcJ the lounlaiii of youth. SiroLt orators arc- much in evidence here, their usual t^ip c bcM!i,r AiiarchisT.i nr perhaps Socialism, for there is a wide tiifference in the 'wo. I listened this morning to a conceited Russian refu^';.e, a young man, who »as abusing his haven. .Anarchism is his panacea for nil the ills that flesh is heir to. He ranted, raved and indulK'Jd in abuse of England and eviTythini; liny-llsh. He t. liked much about equaiiiy and fraternity hut it was the fraternity which Seb.istian Chamfort described as ".A DrotherhooJ of Cain— that is, be my brother or I will kill the.-," A quiet-looking man wlio was ma'jin^' table-mats for sa^e, suddenly got up and in vijjorous English, punctuated with a kick, told .Mr. Russian Bear he would get his neck stretched II lie stayed there. He didn't stay. The Socialist is nii^e often a man with a f.ictory-iile.ich-.-.l skin, who talks of the c.\tirna_^ance of "'N Royal 'l.;hness, the Prince of Wiles." He tells in a crude w.iy of his own i - paid labor and his harassing anxiety: he talks of the great am! ,• of the destitute, the submerged tenth, the other half; men, women and children who are the victims of an industrial rcffimc that daaiands human sacrifice, for it is their blood and agony that is transmuted into accursed gold. The poor labourer hates the filth ol his verminous home. He contends that his birth is like :i dogs, his life like a dogs and his burial like a dogs. His awful nightmare is the fear of being eventually gathered in by "the union", by which term iie means the workhouse. He believes in a great co-partnersh'p of the classes, and would humble the "Robber Knig' ., of Capital". He calls on the Church, to prove her boast that Christianity can solve the social question. . All the ministers are asking, he s.iys, how they may reach the masses, when 28 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. then drop out. She is now at tl.is stage of the disease Lt the loathsome leprosy „ts its way l„to^he ro f of thT mouth' and ins.dethe nose, when the jaw droos off Th.„ ' lose their sight before death. This gir's Lei wereT wee.. Who is responsible P It iLot:rtrLl'Xr ocean . A blacic, o,ly.bacl ■^ ^'"^ IMPKOSSIONS .,K J.,.VEV c^Nf, K AHK(V\n. I i )l If "e.ss of h„,„a„ d.„v , ,„' , ' , ''" ''"'""'• ff'-^-nsy awf.l- "'S" I'l'iy) ;'■* roujrli, the best h,. ^•,; i abouts. thar tlic -•!i were eomi„^r i„,o use there- -nu,copi.-_bt,t bet:: ::":-; rie!:^""r" -'"■ ^^^ manured. "" ''^"e"' '•■"Hivated and The farm uagg-on is a two-wheeled cart with . iH'bs, and rims as thick as ear-wheels ThT'r ^""™<'>'^ h-e little conception of dvnam" forth J "'"•" '^^ Ine farm-laborer dresses In fi,„ . j- ■ ';-'s trousers are kept tm; t "b ly^:;:'':^ .r"''™-^'' ■ T' gather strap that buckles around each ,ee ltd .1 "'u- ' THE IMPRESSIONS OK JAM:V l,\.\liK AIlliOAl). I have been struck with the lack of curiosity and the vacu.ty of mind in their class. Perhaps their laf,^er-thick..,cd blood makes them dullards. The avera.ire laborer has, however the savin- grace of a politeness unknown to Canadians of the same rank, for ho touches his hat when addressed, and if you ■ iiipede his path, he dois not ^miffly i.hout-"r,et out af 'the road, you there," hut courteously savs, "Bv vour leave Madam." ' " ' ' 4 SoL-Tiir;.\D, Si:i>r. jjth. i have been endeavorinjj to live up to niv baptismal vows in the way of hearing sermons and find that in I-nfjland, as in Itaha', ".Ml roads lead to Rome. "The Dissenters are copvinir the Evangelicals of the Established Church, who in a couple of decades will be Hifjh Churchman. The Hi-h Churchmen are Ritual.sts except in doctrine, and the Ritualists and Romanists are identical. Yesterday, I went to a Ritualistic Church and found myself in Oriental quarters. The church was dimly light- ed by wax-tapers and colored lamps, which were suspended from thj ceiling: by chains. Curtains of scarlet plush were hung on rods and an-leJ out from the wails as screens, against which were erected white marble crucifixes. It is astonishing how prevalent scarlet is among the Ritualists. Pictures, Incredibly bad, marked the stations of the cross. There were tawdry representations of little cherubs all heads and wmgs, and apopletic saints on clouds, or what might be a more .1» ^^^l^^^^^^^^^O. ;.«HV CNCCK .B.OAO. il ■1 / incense. The officfa'inrpr esutw .' '"'"'"^ ^""' "^ ««'« <'°"- 't is u„beco.i„,r: butL't^r °' ^" "'-"'"" ■^ necessary i„ religious ,vorsh o h 1 ^™' °' f"^"'*''-'" "^.t the Ritualists L„ toposs's's he "'""'"' °' "''^'■''"' 'he thinr signified Thev J- . ^^" ^'■"">' '" ««« "f "■any of them beautiful H "'J^"''"'"^ among formul^e- th^ir meaning. Lighttt ay^ fl?';' '•'" '""^ ^'"« -' -'^-^">a.i.™a.i;m^:heir„r:.-::;;-- -c:^"i:;::;;:etr::::^ '"'--- --tHatit rubrics of the Prayer-Book and t' ""'" '""■•"'"^ 'o the -ere gi.en for' many of ', '"' "' "°. ^P«='«= "-"'-ns doubtedly understood we shLldu^rtr""'"' " **^ ""■ Sarum liturgy. "°^ """"e Prescribed in the old The clergyman defined the use nf i,„i war.r-bread, and the keeping of "th, b„d T^'""' '"' '"^"• ?=ptacle on the altar thaf th. , ^ °'^ <^''"^'" '" a re- •'Fcr, ..he said, " u ely ' the rr' ," '^'" ""^ '" "^ P^"""' of the Praye; Bookf '"L"^;''"'--'' ««-" Portions impotent conclusion, he told ht! , """• '*"" 'his 'he Ritualists was not to b '""^ """ ""= "''J"' of Papists" but tc go further and , """ "^pistsof the heirarchy by incorpo Itinl' her H '' "' "" ''"P*^'""' f^-^" Church of England' HeikedhTs '"",""" ""'""'^ '"'o 'he the assault, of their opponents ^h.'.' '° "'"" ''^'" ='^^'-' 'he Church" and in good'ime gL ,:" "^='*'"^''ess in out of their persecutions ^'"' «'°"'d de.iver his people I I ]^= ■"P'ESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 3, Last week, I went to Shoebury„e,s where the Padre is »peak,„g to the soldiers. It is an artillery station at which gunnets from all parts of the world .re trained and 1^0,^ experiments in the military ordnance take place. ""P"""" It was a phenomenally hot day for England. The air V. rated w.th waves of heat and there was nmhing hid fr^: the olmdmg lustre of the sun. At ebb rf tin. ,? across the sands past the Sta.libras Gap ^ e re 1 "he"""1 old days" free-booters used to run their'^;,ercha:,dise Ishor An officer kindly showed us the guns. They ar. of horr.ble fficency England undoubtedly .'puts her trust in reek ' tube and ,ron shard." Enormous sums of money Z required to meet the expense of practise on the long-guTrange but Papa Bull has the marvellous faculty of eating'hfs"ca::r<; The average English artillery-man is an inferior marksman More often he misses than hits the bull's-eye, and genera iThe .s far w,de of it. A Canadian knows how to shoot bef u enlists, but the Englishman who takes the Que u'st^r has probably never leaded a rifle, much less fired Tn^ "^ fZ to be taught all that afterwards, audit is only ".er a ,o " practise that he becomes a crack shot. ^ Mr, Thomas Atkins lives in -the married quarters " which truth to tell, do not look enticing. She is l. ran,,?, unfurni.Hed rooms With coal and light." Sh?d;:wt:r^tio:: but ge.s her husband's pay weekly. Twelve per cent o "he arenon-commissionedofl^cers, only 3 percent of the privates aremarried "with leave.'Nosoldier must marrytill he hasserJed seven years for his Rachel, won two good conduct badges and must have at east $.5 in the saving-bank. His pay does' ot alter on marriage, but his two good conduct badges e.Ue X 34 THE IMPRBSSIO.NS OK |4,v,.v ,,.. _., ^■^'"'"' lAMfK ABROAD. offi-r's servant a„J hi. ^^JT "f "^"^ "'" ?»>' -^ an -"oWi.rs. "■"''"''"''^«»-' for the unmarried Th; wivos of the silJl>^. i -= "not on .he establishment The '""^'"' '^■"-"' '-"^ huso inds abroad, and their is „ , T ^ ^ "'^"""^ ''''"°«' "'eir killed. " "° ^'^-'-'n- if their hnsband, are T""-- i' a .S,,ldicr's Ho,„, .^t s.,„.h readinfj-rooms, a cliapel a b.r .,,'";'""■>'''=". 'vhere cosy ^"t-'°;----:-:--,;-^;;^eranee ---^::c-t;^;-.:rt— •oc..inj:L;reTi ,:, r^.t:^^"^' '■'-^ ^'-^^'' '-y -vorse than the first. We ,e" T""" '"^"•^^' ^'^^^ of accomodation at a maximum o/co"."'"^'"^ ' """^'"^"'- ."numerable, both small ,nd great T^'p'T"""'"'''"^ "^''^ flea .ho wrote "Fee-Fo-Fum.T m'll ^e b, 7 T '" "^^ ^ '"an." I made brave to remon tratTw tl «'" °' "" ^"^''•'^^ the sava.?e told me I had brou'^h ,h "^ ''"' '""'"'"'y ^ut ••.ssure herthatmvtrunlwee n' T""' '=""'" ""'/ f-and later that they "ver " ' ""V"""" '" "'^ "P»^i'y- • vv 6 Know TIIK IMPRESSIONS OF JAM;V lAMX-,v AUmvM,. 4 enough to carry oi:r own brushes, hut the carrvln,, t a stage of civi...tion to which wj h.ve t^^^^^; /^i; J! was noUun. for it .ut to lay violent hands on ,h. P drtj J, o. shav,ng.soap, till we were able to supply the a.<^:^ "^ All the boarding-houses are the same Each h .w U.™shed with a cumhe.s..e wardrobe. :::J^Z^::^ZZ ar.d a lumpy bed. with a bolster as round and as hard "^ ro- .n.'-p.n. There is a little cUs.t-room, the blind is in,;^^ac i .b,; 2::.::::; :::::^::^' ^" -" -°' -"-----■-'-• :::;:;: .our':;;:L.^'';r'is\rtarinTrr"^-''' often no lock on the door, so vo r e h cat : """' ''""'' and there is goose-Hesh all over you"'^^,:';:: S.;:::;:^ abihty ,s outraged if you call yourself a "loj^er •'Sh. t sensitive that you should be a •■guest." " "''"■ Her furniture, like her temper, is often out of ioint Th. ';r^.,„°"- "" "■ """■-"■'•••' -»«■ -" .-'Lt:.;:' Ti,,-. l:;.,,.« 't>» jour tea malarming strentrih '"'I'.il- 1 exist.,,,,, a„jh,r r:ppetite--L.-rd save us' X. :t I': 36 THE .MP»ESS.ONS OF JANEV CAN UCK ABROAD. not complain, you are "quite the lady". "^ " " ^°" ''° The only way you can comfortably advise the lanrfI,H ^ hern^dsistowHteyouropinionorLn,.;:^;'^::^^ * * « * Whose objective SlJV^^ '^'^rr'T It is the rule in Ene-land fh„ ,, ''^''^ P'=""'^*- right, but in driW„/;of:eVrth:reri''"^''"''^ '" "« this lorth in the lines followlV:-' ■"' "^^ "^^ «' "The rule of the road is a paradox .,uile For f you, re driving a|o„j,.,ir' ''• ''^'?f!^C.:^:;^?i^c:]^--^^.,, s..;^^p-iirr^aSur:i-^;xr :^st:^::r\::,Kmo]^^---:^ English pay more a.tentfon to th swo'd thrt '"'' '"^ hook. ^""""^ ""an the pruning Canewdon, which is really only a do« off- after the Danish King Canutef who'fo a' tL "Id '\""""' seit of Government. ' """"^ "^'s his -underseanu whffTh E , :^.:::'!/rr^' -""»»■'- Padre acte.. as starter Th,T •, u *"''*' '"*""'• The '•hard .0 run, and Je;.d 1 ' "^ "^"""''^ ''°^' f^"" tumbling ^ait Thev hadT t ^™""'' "'""'" ^'vkward. and finany^he Pad I IT^ T"'' ''"'' -""'"arrow races "is knife to the one ^.L . ''*"''*"^l' ^^i'^kest, and f-tswhichat,e,sdd :":,;;""" ""'^"' "" "^ "ead, B~ad-hipped, c,u.s/"cr rtereTttr-;:' "^'""■ races with remarkable enerijy but onK P"'^'" finish. After tea whirh T. f ' V * "^ "^ '*" '^"^''^ ^"'^ '" trees, the Rel o^ presen ed ",' "" "' -'"^"^ °' «^ ""'' "'"'"--• children. Dur n^ "ea terno IT. '" "" ^"""'^ Schoc'. of the boys andTi ,s in^ 1 , ' ™""'"^' """^"^ '''' =-'* Now, heL;r„f 117!""" ''■»''"»''-- oP" our eyes. quite as amfzin^. P "^ ."""'""" "" ""^ P^'"= '"'" «as never would ^e secu ^ ^^"-"-"'-Annie Nie. She .ood conduct! fohuH ll'^Vetn: ;" .''" '"^ -vin come to Sund.y School wUhcI^;.? ^j^^ "^ tion th,s clergyman would be to a Can;r ^^''■" ' ''^"^''- I suppose, however, it is the ili eff. ? r't" ,'°"^''^'"''"- on his general state of hl.I.i! r ! ""^""^ '"'''''" climate and his^wifeLcta^i '"''•'• '°^''^"^^^''''^'^"''- ""^ "-" The ladies of the Darish haH a i.- ui „ clothing. I should say i wacas, off" ."'' °' '^"'■°'^- one present compared ft to the defin^t " " °""' ='°'"^- Ministero, a deputation. U s ■ W "of ^T .'" ' ''""'^ many but not much". " "^ """"""^^ signifying and almost derenct. ftt Xly o^ '"' '^ ^'^""■' ^'^^ THE IMiKESSIO.NS OK JANliV C.VMVK AIIKOAP. i I I ! \' W'HSTil.lFF, OlT., Stil, We were invited to "a house pnrty," a few ,„iles i,p th. Thames for the pheasant shoeing which opened October .st, I was surprised at the abundance of game. Indeed it i so plentiful that I cannot see now the shooting of it can 1-. ^ called sporl, for there is absolutely no precariousness about i,' It savors n.uch of ■•potting" chickens in a farmyard, a, thev are made to lly around. The whole art seems to be in makin.^ the pheasants rise, which is accomplished by deploys sent into the cover. The birds are shot in great numbers, as they are on wmg. Boin^,. fed on grain, the flesh of the pheasant has not a gam^y llavor, but tastes like lurkey meat. For this kind 01 sport, I-.ng, .:,J isapar.adi,e, as there are immense game pre- serves manag. J with the utmost care, and at a great cost. When the crops have been taken off the fields, branches ot thorn are stuck in the ground a rod or two apart to prevent poachers Irom passing over the fields with nets and capturin.- the b.rds as they feed or crouch there. The laws regarding poachers are very rigorous, and it is said to be safer to shoot a man than a rabbit. Our h.ist -vis a >v..l!-c.,^,ditioned !•: nglish.n.tn, athletically set up and " skdled in all the craft of hunters." The gentle- men oj the party talked incessantly of grouse-shooting, salmon- fishing, riding, yachting, deer-stalking and cricket. Thev boast that the Knglish understand horses and equine nature better than any people in the world, which is most probable. Riding and hunting are their fine arts ; their highest accomplish- ments, and they certainly do both well. They are proud of the fact that the House of Commons adjourns on Derby Day. They like to tell you about their favorite horse, about its progenitors, its flying leaps over hurdles and stone walls, and of its mar' ...11 i-,„^,. „f .-,.._. ..■lloi! :>f en'Ju THE n„.,"merS4.oo. an. orten a K.atuir:?":^::^^ ""MicXair"" amountuig to perhaps S25. ' '""'^""a" money VVe spent a dav tnn t .1. . Woods Which are stoci.dwi.,;.^;:;-.:'—-;;^::^ 40 THE IMPKESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. rabbits, and pheasants innumrrahle. There was an unearthly quiet in the woods, except as we wandered about peering into the mojs-cradles, or when occasionally a palpitating rabbit darted from its burrow and scurried across the dry leaves. We had tea under a huge green bay-tree, and spent the twilight hours of the long summer night gathering mushrooms, those toothsome "plants in masquerade" which grow profusely and in great perfection in this county. • • * » There is a charity-home here at the sea, where all the children are cripples. One puny weakling seems to be smash- ed all over, even her head being held up in a metal cage. Surely she is "bound in affliction and iron." These children are brought up in wholesale fashion very much like a litter of puppies. Their features indicate their birth and station to be of a low origin. England is not an Elysium for children. There are too many, and they are often shamefully neglected. Many of the poorer children seem to have skin diseases, or catarrhal disorders and their youthful noses are never, never wiped. They invariably talk before they walk, which is the reverse of things in Canada. There have been disrespectful foreigners, who havedescribed England as "a furious centre of prolific vitality, "for the rabbit- like fecundity ofits people is remarkable. They are not ashamed to bear children, even in public, and three times this season the birthwail has been heard in the waiting-room of the Railway Station in this little town. ^ THE IMPRESSIONS OK JANEV CANICK ABROAI.. 4' Oct. loth, 1898. Thackeray wrote, "If Ihave cares i„n,y mind, I come to the Zoo aad fancy they don', pas, the gate. I recogn ,e mv fr ends my enennes ,n countless cages." Perhaps it was something ^f th,. feelmg that made K. and E. want to go dir.ctly to see the stanngeyes,anda voice like a banshee should haveThe lemurs are called the monkey's poor relations becaus of ' tLi Xrar:.."""^'^" "-"'■•- -" -' ofinet; ,h.J^'"'r^'""^'"'"'^'"""'y '*" f"li^some antics of these .mp,sh young Simians, whosomehowlooked human-verv H. proofs, and these pitiful caricatures of humanity were turned ou Hawthorne says that Satan perpetrated them with "he -ahaous purpose of parodying the masterpiece of creation, fo the Creator could not have meant to ridicule His own work. We looked rather nervously at the e-Ias-: i„ 11, hous a„, , , ^^^^^ ^l^^^ stro^gt ug "to' :,dr k iTchedriZd"^""'^ "' "'-•" '"^ ^•''-^■- — - ''- .eii^::::::sr::r:a:^,-— -° '■'^'--■ the sun in lonely lands". Like the o SLa.^mlT '^ ugly, only when they descend to earth. Wha a „," -.Id be to liberate them and watch their^ upw' T" " i- [^d^- 42 THE IMPRHSSIOSS OK JANEY CANICK ABROAD. We had rides too, on a scrawny, knock-kneed came!. It took no small ability to navigate this "execrable hunchback". Nor were our experiences on "Jingo," the African elephant more pleasant. When this dawdling creature put his best foot foremost, we felt all his bony and twisted irregularities. The sensation was not unlike a storm at sea and we descended from his back, thanking heaven for the luxury of still being alive. As you ascend Ludgate Hill to the highest ground in the metropolisyou see "a huge dun cupola like a foolscap crown on a fool's head." There is no need to be told that it is St. Paul's. You have seen it a hundred times in your mind's eye, yet it is diflFerent. You are surprised into a wordless incompetency; it IS vague, dim, unreal. Its smoke-corroded walls, its myster- ious perspectives, and simple yet grandiose proportions, loom up in the homoegeneous light like a half-finished drawing in grey chalk. On all sides the adjacent buildings press about it. It is a shadow of a great rock in a weary land. Whatever may be his political views, there is no spot in this mausoleum of British heroes, where a Canadian's pulses beat quicker than at the foot of the crypt stairs, where the nation has erected a superb bust of the late Sir John A. MacDonald, and underneath in jet black letters, sunken in the snowy whiteness of the marble, have carved the words: "A British subject was 1 born. And a British subject will I die." Near by lies Lord Nelson. His coffin was made from Z'0/-««/, one of his trophies in the battle of the Nile. The mosaic floor surrounding the tomb, records his victories. At his feet lies "the Iron Duke' . Side by side is England's greatest Soldier and greatest Sailor. THE IMPKtSSIONS OF JAXEV CAM. K AHROAD. 43 When Wellington's Knly was brousilu here, Tc;invson makes Nelson to ask; "Who is he thill comelh lilic an hoiiorc.l gm-su \y,lh h.viuer an.1 will, miisi.:, with s..Wier and wilh prie-,! Wilh H iialiot, wce|)ii;^' and hreakinj; on mv ic-l? •MiSihly Seaman, iliis i> hu Was (freal by lands as ihou hv sea. Thine Island loves Ihee well, thou lanu.us man The greatest sailorsinee llieworld beK'an, •Vow, to the roll ol' niiiDl, ,| drums To thre the jrreatesi sailer lomes, I'or this is he Wa, threat by land as thou by sea.'' In this ffloomy, soul-oppressing: crvpt is the quaintest tnonument in En^fland. It was erected to the metnory of Or Donne. His marble effigy stands on an urn, wrapped in a wmding-sheet. He designed this monun,ent himself and Itad It carved tn wood, causing it to be stood by his bed-side till his death. Here also lie the bodies of Sir E Jwin Lands.-er, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Canon Liddon, Turner, Opie, West and St John Millais. ■■ The compact and solid walls of the crypt are twenty-four feot >n diameter. In 1830 while excavating here, a stone altar dedic at- cd to the godess Diana, was brought to light, so that It is be- heved that the first temple erected on this spot was by the Romans. St. Paul's is the largest Protestant church in the world, and the first monument in it was erected to Howard, the prison philanthropist. His statue, with fetters and manacles under- foot, and a great key in his hand is most appropriate, although It might also do for St. Peter. It is a bright galaxy of stars this Minster has set in he.r crown, yet you wonder that so many of the huge monun; .ents ! 44 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. are feeble-even ludicrous. U would seem that the English sculptors have a tendency to represent their heroes as -nWjl Dr TolTo • °' " '"" """ ""' " "■'"'"""" of <='°""„; Caotain R " ^^P"""'"! as a half-naked gladi.orial figure. naked Calf"' W """^ " '''""^ ''°'" ^ ^^'""'^ «^"- - ^'--^ naked. Capta.n VVestcott is also nude. Sir John Moore, who d, d at corunna, is being lifted by a soldier who belongs to" ^ ^-«. know, as .„„.,„,/„/,„. Lo,j Collingwood's clothing vve,ghs about two ounces. Sir Willian, PonLby is whZ n undress and General Andrew Hay is caught by a so d r absolutely uinocent of plumage. •.nd 2l^°'t '""• ^"' """' ^"^ ""-g-^e being decorated and among the co>wo,sseu.s a fierce battle of tongues is waging The ornamen.at,o„ is considered by some to be overloaded and CO or and prefer the time-honored dirt of these walls to any .rr.descent or gorgeous scenes of Holy Writ Perhaps I am ,g„orant of what constitutes pure art- ! deed ,t,s most likely-for these decorations presented to e a harmomous /„„, „„.„,ife Or it .ay be, that coming from a and of fierce sunshine, of raw cobaits, scarlet and blood-red a land where even the moonlights are of sharp, silver intensitv of the work dehghted me at every turn. It is a symphony in green and gold illuminated like an old missal with' toudZ of ol.ve. amber brown, and deep tawny orange. Sebarta!,or/;;''«T';'"'"'"' "'"" """ ^'^'"'«- '"German. Sebastapool and Balaclava ■,..;, over an emblazoned tablet erected to the memory of t,.e soldiers who fell i„ these baUle' IJIT/Tr ":' '™'""" °' '"'•"^'"" '"'-I'' "ang in a temple dedicated to the Prince of Peace. of thf 1^°"' "'^'ock.'here is evensong. The exquisite harmony of .m young, elast.c voices '.might create a soul under the I V. THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 45 healeth ^H " -' ""' "' ""'' '"' '"^ ""^ ""* crv . ab' , " " '" "'"'•" ■'° '""'^ "O"^'"" f- "ome. .heir th^ ohh : ?"" °' ^'"'y'°"" T" '"« P»""«"t. " - word. ."^"1"^"''''^ ''"'>"''"= '" 'he irreverent and wo dly how "He bowed the heavens also and came down and t «a darl< under H,s feet. " I shall come often, for it is rest be- side tne wearj-road to hear the angel's sing. Then climb the toilsome ascent to the great dome with its d.-.ng depths, and look-out over London. It is not a city-It .saKmgdom. In the ashen, filmy light it looks like pictures of the d,sentombed Pompeii. There is a peculiar charm in i,s ilesunir" T- !'■'='">•■-'= ''t'hMike one sees when L ^ ";-!'"'■ " '°'''"' "^^ "-■"boyant, and harmonises nvs me h, 7' " ' ■'"" °f "--"'y.- "nearthliness, which mjs.,fies, blends, exaggerates and thr.-ws a nameless glamour ed br^rn '°1'f """'' '"' " monotonous pile of tlacken- ed bncks. One could get to love this cruel London almost with pass.on. She bewitches, and fascinates ; she represents a d irerent face to dllTerent people. To Wordsworth she was a crowded solitude," to De Quincey "A stony hearted stepmother." Shelley wrote of her as, '.London, tha grea .ea whose ebb and flow at once is deep and oud. and on the shore vomits its wrecks and still howls said .r^'^- '"•"'. "'""'' "''^' "■"''"-^ •"• D- Johnson sa.d, He who .s t.red of London is tired of exisience. " found?" ?k' ^^"''' j! "" ^^"'='"="->' of St. Martin-le-Grand toundeu m the re.gn of Edward the Confessor. In this "City of sllT; "?^T^ ''euth-hounds breathing out threatning and but dared ^l ^'^ "'"'""'"" "^^ '"— tricken vL-tim. coverr h " u ''"""'^' "' ''^'"^ "^""^ °" "im- Thes and other"" "'""K'^.'"''^ "^ bulking ruffians, desperadoes and other vamp.res of .oce.y. until the privilege of sanctuary ■ 'I I i 1/ 46 THE IMPRESSIONS <,K j^sKY tAXLCK ABROAD. was summarily abolished. It w; limes. as "the vexed question" of tho ack., an arsenal, and an English show-place. " *'0"Ks, Poisoners and Tra'tors. >vi.at'^o"oi^:!::::^""^TL'^""^™=' '-"'-^'^'^ •"^"^- •'-« drear PC r,'\;V'';t^7^ '° ""- "'-'' fini-^H wiihin ^"o.s.rorthLrd?r;si :.\/:: :;:tt-rvr'-^"'" ^'^"-■ dnvellin'^ doy rom'c ^"h '"'"'•• '-"'"er. vain ra,.. 'he sheefs of "i's'tor ."uvarrheT^ ''"'' ""'^^ '"" "'' ''""- -H, "that made. m:r;:::-:- --f of the^War'/of thTRor'T:1 ',T ^^'"'^" "^ '^^'— ■ »"'' intheGunpowdrProrL ''°"'"'''^' =■"" ""= -»^P-a.ors ~ors L.r ::• hrdirret::::-:: '"^ ^"- ^- - hoary'"wTns^^;|'h'';:"^f"'"'°^''^«^-''°" ^""-P''-' 'he onmp'osingvasJss''"^' """"■■""•"*'"■ '" -^— drillii; a/wTemeT '^ ^"'^ f """''• '"^ '™'^'' """^^ -" Strai^hf r "^ well.set-up soldiers they are too Zt:T:"' :t'":'''"' -'^-'"^ "'-" "-"-- 1 ZealaLers '"""• '°'"^^'' ""^"^ "' "-ge Ne^ THE IMPRESSIONS OF lANEV CANLCK ABROAD. 47 The portcullis brings you to the Watergate, better kncnvn as "The Traitor's Gate". "That Gate misnamed throujrh uhith belprr, Went Sidney, Russell, K.Ueish, Cr:iiii|.er, .More." It is a Datitesque portal where those who entered miHit well abandon hope. It was one of the ironies in which history abounds, that at this gate Henry VIII presented Anne Boleyn'to the people as their Queen, and on three years later to the vety dav, she was executed on the Tower Green. Eighteen years afte'rwards, her daughter Elizabeth came as a prisoner to ihj Tower, and entertd thesame Traitor's Gate. This Henry bulkslarge in Ihe Tower's history. A merciless, malevolent de«poi, (topful of un- bridled lusts, his life is a filthy epistle showing Ihe ultiinate vileness, the black and dirty recesses of the human heart. The crown regalia is guarded and exhibited in the Wake- field Tower. The children were surprised when they saw the Queen's Crown. They thought she always wore it, and sat on a throne. Sparkling amid the seventeen hundred diamond.s of the crown is an inestimable sapphire of great beauty, and an- enormous heart-shaped ruby, said to have been worn by the Block Prince Diadems, sceptre.s, swords, a wine fountain, the corona- tion spurs, the Royal Baptismal Font and many other beautiful things, went to make up a collection that is valued at fifteen million dollars. The first impression of entering the old Gothic Chapel of the Tower is of standing in a forest of petrified trees. The columns are the huge trunks and the ornate complexities of the groined roof, the limbs. No style of church architecture can be more impressive, or better calculated to trance the hearts of the people in worship. It speaks at once to the eye and soul. The armour worn by all the King's horses and all the King's men (and by all the Kings too) has been arranged in 48 THE IMPRESSIONS OP lANPV ^... ______ ^ "^^ CANUCK ABROAD. chro„olog,cal order from Edward I ,„, , ~ h'-'tory done in sleel. The IZ "''""" '" " ''" "" English ■"'"«". White. ru«et, ZlkTJI '"''■ """ "' ='«-fi.f as armour .hat "It was an ad^raH 1^''"" "''""" '" ''''"' »' man fron, being hurt himseT o,to'"T"°" '^ " "'"^"«' « h^rdy the case, for when once ;"■" 'l"'""^""'^"-" This is ="'soutelyatthemercyofh°sa„l -'^ ""' ''°""' ''^ -«» °;" a,d. The victor cou d talc hL fl "^ """ ""'" "°' "« with- h.s mace in order ,o make a ' „T. 'd" '"'"'^"■earmourwi.h Notunfrequently.amanonlyslhl ■''' ' '"^^^ ''°'"^- ">• .he weight of his own arlu, "^ "'°""'"''' "" "«" ^'i"*" -P-^::^'^:r^-^-- -"— ,ns °J ^lass there are wetpons T^'"'-'^'"'- '" cases dun.jeweled. damascened al f '"'"'' """" "'f-n-ve. Sedgemoor. spear-heads fron, w '^'''PP=''= Crossbows from "■^KingofOude, ba,et':;'';7°"-'''--ution a.e of --egais from Caffraria. spear ' ^^'"T, ""■"" ''^-''-. an ■".'T >ances. and huge tv;ora:d;d'':w:d;"'""' ''''"'• J°"- « tablet marks th^ .,„„. > young princes were found aL'f' "' ''°'"" "^ '"^ hapless Westminster Abbey fofind hono^aV'":^ '"'' ^"' '="'- •" ■" -• from Canada. ^'' been carried By spiral stairs, we ascended theBeaucham„T many of the nobility were incarcerated a ca'vrd^:""' ''''"" on the walls. In letters of Elizabethan .h ? , " *"'f""*'' of Dudley, cut the name of hi^g rl H^ ? °r '''"''''"' '-Ption runs ; -. p..,. ,^^^^ iTort^.?,! the same spot, in spite of her sex and grey ha L 1,: °" Sahsbury, the mother of Cardinal Pole was T\;^"'" °* with as little ceremony as an n , '""' '° ''^"'h bidden to lay herTead 'n the h^ '". ' u '"^"^^ """^^ When replied: -S^o shotd ri o^ 'r'^ d ^am °''' "°^-"'- ■he: of her head, the executioner ad h"e"t: '""" stramed to get it off sloyenly," for he had tn ^ u""" '""" the scaffold and hit her manv MH . "^^ase her round before he accomplished hrhTrri^rk.''''''^' '^"^ '"^ ^^ Queen Ellre'thrE^rnf'Ele^.-rho'"''^""^ "-"^'^ ^^ this hill .Wre like a bridegfoom;h"°a '"'" °" death." oegroom than a prisoner appointed for On Tower Hill, outside the wall, w»„ Duke of Monmonth, Archbishop Laud he Protect''^"'"''' '"^ Bishop Fisher, the Earl of Sidney and S.affoTd . °'""'"' others. The last person beheaded rLl?;lrL '.7"°' who suffered on this spot is ,747. ^ ^' ^""^ ''°*"' so hi THE IMPRESSIONS OF lAVEV riv ... JA.>E1 CANL-CK ABROAD. brass at .he entrance .ecolVnTZTZ'' ^^ '"°"""^ here interred Into thk .', , , ""^ -'plendid dead" drenched, headlerjdes^ATeeO:''"";^^'' '"^ '"°°''- hau^htiest dan,es and kn ^h^ ^Th, "t ', T"'"^'''"'''' plumed and visored, are said u ^" '^ ^''°"'' ''»'•''- Thi. is ,uite ..e-; t^:;::: tre-'r-rre!"^ ^'"^ '" '"^ ''-^- wou,d.ean a J:r:e:r,:u'' intif t:^"'""'°"'^^- " la.-.^ess,othls unique personage a! a't° u'^T '°"' could not be small to a man Jhn . ^' " ^ ^"' y" Holbein. '""■^ '■■•"'"^'" "'as designed by ^ Harwich, Nov. stli. :l::i;:i,^;:^!"^.-^"^— -.dportofH arwich. =r,:::--;^'-«"--x:: The tonn is almost -•;a:s::rr^---f'-.n ,„, to Ipsuich and dined at "The Gre.-^ VVhi'te H ?'\ ' """' Ip-vich, on the left-hand side o Tl'.e wa a! "t'" /T' "^ alter you have passed thro...h the IT ,' ''"'""" = " tiK ipace Irontrni;- the Toivn THE IMPRESSIONS OF JAXKV CAMTli .111 all stands an, n„, known far and wide by the appelation of The Great White Horse," rendered the more conspicuous h .. stone statue of some rampacious animal with flowing ,„,„e and tai , d.tinctly resembling an insane cart-hor.e. „^,i h elevated above the principal door. The Great Whi, Hor'e 'amous ,n the neighborhood in the same degree as « „Z[ ' or county paper-chronicled turnip or unwieldy pi/_fc, ^ .-«. .Never were such labyrinths of uncarpeted passages su h huge number o. small dens for eating or sleeping in 'ben" any one roof, as are collected together between ihe k,/ of the Great White Horse at Ipswich." "' "•'"^ lfyouw.ant to know what I ordered for my dinner vou niust look up what Mr. Pickwick and .Mr. Peter Magnits in dulged in, on the occasion of iheir visit here. The old houses in the town are of the half-timbered order and are sadly out of plumb. The skeleton of each is of darkoak while the flesh is a conglomerate of stone and mortar Wh'! Mr. Ruskm has called -the brick and plaster system", has no ye, found Its way into Ipswich, for there are no in.erminabU rows of houses, each the counterpart of its neighbour but „ streets that deviously twist through labyrinths of bends and curves, sometimes striking an unexpected angle, these quaint houses stand as models, not only of utility, but of taste! eve, of simple grandeur. ^ ' H MT?'""''t!":' ,"'".'""" '''"' "■^" hours aboard H. M S. .S«.,.,;,, „.h,ch hes ,n the h.rbor at Harwich, hourlv awa„,ng orders to get under «eigh, for kn 1, dann Pashoda and the French .^u. c ear *-„:: This word "cla,m" seems to be the watchword of n,n T times. It is Rob Roy's old rule: -They sho d tkk w^o t" '. t>an,ns.,personor„at,o„outortherutora narrow and e. clus.ve an.,.u„v and places them on the wings of the prevaihn" d^ 5' THE IMPRJSSIONS O, JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. mode^ Be that a, i, ™ay, the live nerves of "The Dear Neighbours" are a-quiv.r. and they long for each otheT. blood' At a given signal, a boat manned with young marines, set out for shore, and talcing us in. returned to fhe vfssel wh'ch Je entered by means of a rope-ladder, thrown over its sid* The vessel, which has been ammunitioned and coaled for three years, ,s undergoing a resurrectional process. It is beinir swept, garnished, and painted and otherwL put in wha it known as "ship shape." The sailors crowded around D all eagerness to carry her. for a baby aboard a man-of-war creates almost as much mtercst as d.d ron.,ny Luck in T>.e Roan.,g Can,p. They c"ll d her "a jolly little shaver" and other endearing diminutives, final y carrying her aloft where her little high mightiness crowed and laughed to their admiring overtures. The Master-at-Arms was our escort and explained how these lusty, full-blooded young marines are put through ZZ fac ngs, taught to climb a pole or stand on their heads A man IS not long a 'prentice hand "in the Queen's Navee." One is apt to think ofthe armament as separate from the vessel, but when vou examine a man-of-war every inch of it seems to be an implement of death planned with devilish ingenuity Our escort told us all about the lock, stock and barrel of the wonderful quick-firing gun ; of its power of horrible destructiveness, and ofthe unerring sight which the gunners take for their aim is based on mathematical calculations.' Truly the"Q.F." is "A preachi who speaks to the purpose Steady, straight forward and strong with irresistible logic I- lashing conviction right into the heart. " The Master-at-Arms he explained to us sat their on the torpedoes s driven through the water by a propeller that is set going as It IS discharged from the lube. Their is no room for fastidiousness or fine stomachic sensibilities in the matter of food on Her Majesty's ships, for the range of «^,,,„ is limited it consists of salt beef, salt pork, and every two days, fresh meat ; rice and potatoes arc served on alternate days with biscuits, and when in port, bread. Being married a few days ago, the Captain is away on his honeymoon. On the last trip, they picked up a young lady, missionary at Mombassa and the Captain-ah well ! "Tis an old talc and often told." t^ London, Nov. loth. Mounting an omnibus yesterday in front of the u-^lv cumbrous Mansion House, I rattled down Cheapside all The thorl'Xr '^ ^^'"""'^ '""'"' ^"'"'" '^^' "■"-"■ "Smack went the whip, round went the wheel Were never Iblks so glad. The stones did rattle underneath A« if Cheapside were mad. ' 54 HIE IMPRESSIONS OF JASEV CAMVK ABROAI). Along we swung past Ihe Bow Clmrcli, my thoughts still running melrically : "Go back, go back Turn again, turn again Once — ding Twice— dong Thrice— Bell ' 'Thou shall be mayor of London, " For it was the Bow Bells of C'heapside that brought promise to the 'prentice boy, "Richard Whittington, thrice Lord Mavor of London, a virtuous, godly man full of good works anil these f,imous." It was the 9th of November, and I was to see the new Lord Mayor ride through the city. Descending at St. Paul's Churchyard, I looked about for the big shop from whence I was to witness Ihe parade, but alas ! my fate was that of the foolish virgins, .ind so I searched for another point of vantage. There seemed to be millions of people and all bigger and taller than I. Hundreds of little ragamuffins were perched on the stone balustrades of St. Paul's Cathedra) and for the modest fee of a shilling, I persuaded two of them to descend and let me have their place. It was a high climb, but presenting a bent knee to them, they lifted me as though to mount a horse. It is not the smallest pleasure in sight-seeing to feel that you are absolutely unknosvn, and consequently rather enjoy than resent rude remarks even when they apply to such sacred things as your ankles and garters. Once seated, I had an uninterrupted view ot all thai was going forward. The scene presented a v;ist mosiac of different colored hats — nothing more, except that here and there merry Andrews and madcaps capered and sung for their copper harvest. Plumb beneath was an ambulance station, whither the bruised, fainting and broken-limbed were home. My seat was worth several shiilinijs. THE IMI-KKSSIONS OK JANKV .ANlcK K AUKOAn, opportunity tc, shout and clap my hand's. *^' "'"'"■"' church bells. A liteboat. the b "'oHh W '■ ''''^"" "' ""• and the lads f.on, the Du': Tvl^^ M , I' '■ sT""r"'"'' noticeable feature. The . ^ ,, , , , J '■">^^''""' were Cordvirainer. p!» ' , ^^""'"Pf"' F'-ame«ork Knitters. A car, emblemalicof Ihe Engrish speakin? ra™. n, . ■ ^ , " " >-' "icp^'iver and intluence ot the nMoo. .1, n.fied and .ost hospitable ..unicipa, ::;:::::^i ;:::,:-^;:;»; ''I 56 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. Nov. 1 2th. The average omnibus driver is a mine of information and knows alt the interesting places along his route. Now he points out with his whip Lansdowne House on Piccadilly, yonder, it is the home of the Baroness Burdette-Coutts, and further on that of Baron Rothschilds who, he says, sends every omnibus driver in London, a brace of pheasants at Thanksgiving. Baron Roth- childs is being buried to-day, and each driver has crape on his whip. They speak of him as "Our jolly pal. " At 13S Piccadilly, lived the notorious Duke of Queensbury, known as "Old Q". At 139 Lord Byron wrote Parisina and The Siege of Corinth, and from it Lady Byron fled with her infant daughter. The Duke of Wellington's house faces Green Park. This park contains about sixty acres, and is bounded on the north by the Buckingham Palace drive, where Queen Victoria was shot at, on three occasions. My "Knight of the Whip" told me that he works seven days in the week; always sixteen hours a day and often eighteen. He only sees his children when they are asleep. He is a sire, not a father. To pilot his cumbrous vehicle through the narrow and sinuous thoroughfares and amid the intricacies of London's traffic requires great alertness of movement, keeness of eye and steadiness of nerve. He can hardly be expected to be at his best at the close of an eighteen hour drive, and such an arbitrary, cruel strain must mitigate against the interests of the employees. We got down at Hyde Park. Near the entrance, the women of England have erected a gigantic bronze statue ot Achilles in memory of the Duke of Wellington. It is copied from one of the Diocuri on the Monte Cavallo at Rome and is the most magnificent public monument I have ever seen, I THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. ,7 To the young Byron whose sun went down while it was umvonhy o'ne"''"'" '" "''''' " """"°"'" ^'°— "^ f«'"<' -" On the bridle path called "The Rotten Row" (supposed to rose tedT l"^"""' ^"'"' ''" ''"''^ """y equestrians and resetted flunkies cantered smartly. The horses curveted and champed their bits, as if to sav Look, you raping colonials, at our glossy hides, the easines^ of ou^rpt, our beautifully dappled flanks and g;andly c^ea Oh yes:," we reply, "we know all about your pretty tricks andabou. your symme.ry,style. good-breeding and'inteC; and about your lineage and collaterals ,00, for after all you ar only colonials, and come from Canada." There were some smart turnouts on "The Lady's Mile" The horses were showily and ornately harnessed, and ,e carriage-robes were of mink or other beautiful fur. It is interesting to watch the pedestrians lounging idly by mLor'Hp"" '"' -istocracyof England aifd ^therea, monocled Briton. The carefully toileted men are the very acme o elegance. Each has the correct frock-coat with snug' waTs, and drooping shoulders, varnished boots and "tile" of mem II - smoothness The young men do not look as robust and ma W as their seniors . Many have figures like the ladies in IZ'v Ba.a„r They are pallid nd languid as if all their vlai^v we.ejausted. -t would do them good to loosen out t';; hM^hl^^",""'"" "'""' '""'""« *'""" "ffht-laced corsets, hold their skirts coquet.ishly in finger and thumb. Madam^ tockmgs. She is proud of her finely-turned ankles. In general she IS S.OU., lymphatic, Icquacious and wha, the French call THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. "full of temperament." She uses her long silver lorgnette with admirable effect. Mademoiselle is of the "flaxen Saxon," tvpe. Her skin is of a delicate softness. Her eyes are like wet violets and she has a queenly set of head and throat, but alas ! a loose jointed walk. Close to Hyde Park, at Knighlbridtje is Tattersail's, commonly known as "Tats," the world's most celebrated mart, for horses. On enlerins this town of Houyhnnmns, we were met by a horsey man with a beard like a scrubbing brush, and a nose that proclaimed him to be a son of Bacchus. He volunteered his services as guide. We entered a square, cobble-paved yard, which our voluable cicero.-,e explained, was where the horses v.;..ire brought out from the stables to show their action, and to be auctioned off. The Tattersalls get 5' ■_ of their sales. Bacchus jr., took us to the stalls and stripped the satin- skinned beauties of their body-cloths that we might see they were thoroughly fit and in good fettle. "Did Madam want a hunter?" he queried, whereupon the Padre hastened to assure him that we had absolutely no idea of purchasing, being mere curious sight-seers. Oui friend's visage fell several degrees, until with a knowing air and a nod, 1 told him, I could not say just what I would buy before returning to Canada. The Padre blushed for my shameless duplicity. There were high-stepping carriage-horses and lean, nervy racers, lithe, "fleet limbed and beautiful," with heads like the \edid .Arab. ' A spare hunter, black as a sloe, with well-ribbed up body and generously muscled hindquarters, made me forget the commandment about covetousness. What apioud thing he was, a very king of horses-as intelligent and sure as the English then s.-lvos. Some of Ihe horses were blemished. One had a THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANICK AIIKOAD. ?9 Stocked Its and others old wounds caused by hun' ne accidents, but on the whole it is a magnifici.m co:iection that the rattersalls offerthe public. Leaving: here, we took a hurried run throu-h Harrod\ stores -bngland's largest departmental. There 'are seventv- s.x dcparlments, a safe deposit, a grand restaurant with 'a silver grill, a banking department and a rail and sicam licket- cfiice. * -[- ;■; Vespers are over, and it is dark when we visit the Oratorv of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, usuallv known as th'e Hro„,pton Oratory. The vaulting of this Cathedral is remark- able, havmg four lesser domes and one centre cupola. At the door stands the baptismal font, or '•the laver of regeneration- The great organ is silent, the censers are e..tinguishej, but .till the cloying odours hang heavy. The candles are li^.hted, on the black altar of Our Lady of Sorrows. In the half-l'ight, hushed and devout worshippers bow low before the great white \'irgi; the Christ-child and aureoled Saints. Itistranquilizingtorestherea liitle: it is a halting in green pastures. '' Piccadilly was ablaze with light as we drove home. I w., deeply impressed by the m.ajesty of London by night. I fel, as Nathaniel Hawthorne when be wrote, "By ni^du London looks wild and dreamy, and fills me with a pleasant drea.^ " The opulence of the streets, their blurred complexitv li-e confused medley .,( sight and sound, the lurid duskiness ;,f the atmosphere, and the enlrancing brilliancy of the shifting li.vlus stupify and confound me. h ^- . ''is good to get back to the roof-tree and rest one's ,r„vel- t.red bratn for at last we have secured rooms that have not the usual comfortless, hired look, and the landladv is not en.ir -Jv piratical. ,J1 And then too, she has a heaven-sent talent for cooking chops. King Kettle on the hob is singing like "an unfallen black angel." I watch the table being laid in a languid ecstacy of expectation and a sense ol the rest that remaineth. She busies herself toasting the muffins, and tells me ofher latest successful efforts to cast aside fetters matrimonial, for Cupid plays queer pranks with even London landladies. A young lawyer has promised to put her case through the Divorce Court for £6. It would seem that her husband, from whom she is separated, counts his wives in figures of some arithmetical score. It no longer needs an angel with flaming sword, to keep man from re-entering Eden. Indeed, on the whole he prefers lite as an outlander. It is in the negative that he answers Juvenal's lines: Wilt thou tamely draR the galling chain When hemp is to be bought and knives remain. Ah well ! Vhomme est un michani miimnl. ^ Nov. 5lh. Like Satan, "From going to and fro in the earth and trom walking up and down in it," I finally landed at Temple Bar. The Temple Bar memorial stands on Fleet St. It is the most hideous thing I have seen in England. Why the eff.gy ol a beast, half eagle and half lion, should perpetuate the fame of Temple Bar is not clear, and one tries hard to find just.ficat.on for what appears to be a very bad joke. THE IMPRESSIONS OF JAXEV CANICK ABROAD. 6l ;' ^ a Under a narrow gateway we entered the Inner Temple Lane where the guide at once pointed out to us Pr. Johnson's house. It was here that Bosweli visited him. Near by lived Charles Lamb. Soon we came to the Temple Church which may be said to blush unseen. It is down steps on the old level of Fleet Street. It dates back to 1 185 and was one of the few churches that escaped the great fire. This is the famous Round Church built by the Knights Templars after their return from the second Crusade, in memory of the Round Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Here on this very pavement, worshipped these mail-clad, cross-decked knights "and their sepulchres are with us till this day." "Dead the warrior, (ie.id his jflory. Dead ihe ciusc in which he died." Their broi.ze figures lie prostrate on the fipor, "In cross- legged efiigy devoutly stretched." The shields of these feudal warriors are of Norman design. Their hooded heads rest en cushions. The floor is tiled with figures of the Agnes Dei and the Pegasus— the heraldic emblems of the Templars. It has beer ironically said of these armorial bearings in their relation to thi lawyers that, "The lamb sets forth their innocoia; the horse their expedition." The ch>irch has been greatly restored in what Miss Thackeray calls "the shabby tide of progress", but the restor- ation has only been a new patching of the old garment for the stones, crumbled with the grime of centuries are slill there. The coal of England is very bad coal. It leaves cruel scars of soot. The preacher at the Temple is known as "The Master." "The learned and judicious" Hooker was Master at one time, and here wrote his Kcclesiaslienl Polity. 62 THE IMPKtsSIOXS OK MVKV --ember ,hau,eu.™te like .-u, 'r""? """' '-"''•^'' ""^ :"• ■^"'' "•*" you wonder fZ "'""^"'^'' '"'« poor J>^ nsonanJBoswell never -.avelil /'" '""'"^ ^'-"^k, ■• ".' of calcined s.one .hlr „,ar . U ""' ''°" ^'^^ "P ^ ^-Sht heart, to be one of yourt,,?' "■^""»-P'-^ -f ''is "'= «^. ^ " P''"""- "> 'l>o home across p-.4'rc;:i*,;:'7,i::,"'« -•■•■""- M»t."Sl. Hi,,™,..,,," '",•"1 »h.™ «, b,„|,., '" their profession. ^ *"'""^'' positions of honor """■- '"at '"'" ^ P'-ecedent. I ^an THE IMPRESSIONS OK JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. fij understand now why justice is not more often done Th. not infrequently, covers both ears ofthe judl a„d sonrev"'f his hearing either side of the case. '^"''"" \P^'-"«/"ier in the days of George II, with an eye to the first chance, hung out as an advertisement, a picture oAh,.l suspended to the tree by his hair, and undeUn: 'pt ° U David, who is made to exclaim: K^fiuroej "O Absalom! O .Absalom! O Absalom, my son! If thou hads t worn a periwig Thi-u hadsi not been Uidone." A few minutes in the Court where th, ^. t Bankruptcy, drags his victims to th! re igr^"!:;,'';' and then we passed on to the room wher a, Ll.r i '' surrounded by a cloud of witnesses carr es o" he H *■"' ndustry. It is here the course of untrue loTe is daily expCeT for^marrtage ,n England is by „o a-world-SS It was the usual Uory of -young blood" and an "old decree;'' a story of disillusionment, incompatibinty, u ab,^^ gable differences, blighted affections, oscula.ory indiscretions' and other post-nuptial unpleasantness. 'naiscrettons The "spoons" had become knives and forks- the ".r u, match" had turned out a mesallmnce. *'"'"' We sat in the seat of the scornful, and so the Padr. A- carded prose, and like Mr. Wegg, dropped into poe.^ a ,e !; I heard htm say to "the Ancient". ^ The ventures greater, Ml presume to say To give your person than your goods ai-ay." Yet, they are not the saddest cases that com. to thisCourt There is a more terrible divorce-I mean the divnr. , °" ' Only light sorrows are clamorous. The deadly eris '?"'" .hey bleed inwardly. What a f^^.^Tl^T^lTZ world would make! °' "'* ^: 60 THE IMPHESSIONS OK JANEY lANlTK ABROAD. "The Ancient" asked the Padre if he would not like to be a lawyer, but the Padre gave it as his opinion, that it was easier to preach than to practise. The Courts had "risen". The "gowned vultures" were going home and we went too, all th..- time thinking of George Klliot's words, -Law is one of them smartish businesses as is all profits and no outl.iy." «|j» London, Dec. 17th. Nothing in Madame Tassauds' or for that matter, in London, interested me as much as the knife, which during the French Revolution found its sheath in the bared and quivering throats of twenty thousand people, and among them, those of Louis XV(, Marie Antoinette and Robespierre. Assuredly, it was a knife that "cut friendship." The Chamber of Horrors, is not so terrible as one would suppose from its name, but is chiefly designed to show that the course of murder never runs smooth. The Tassauds' have galhered many of the relics that go to make up Napoleon's life-story. These remains form an epic of battle, fame, victory, love, defeat and death: a history of a m*i who never had a conscience. His tooth and tooth-brush, the cot upon which he slept the night after Waterloo, his shirt' waistcoat, handkerchief, coffee-cup, dressing case, camp equip- age, stockings, sword, coronation robes, and his snuff-box are all displayed for the public good. It was an awful vengeance this nation took on its fallen enemy, for it exhibits at the Royal College of Surgeons, even Napoleon's diseased intestines. Is it a cause for wonder that the French hate the ICnglish? THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANKV lAXllK AIIKOAU. (>7 DeC'EMBEK, igtil. Yesterday morninsr I went to St. Mary's, Islington, wher' were receiving. 68 THE IMPRESSIONS OK JANEY fANlVK ABROAD. !i 'li ' m In the .fternooii we went to St. James' Hall, Piccadilly, to a meeting; called in the interests of peace, and to take into con- sideration the Czar's rescript. The Archdeacon of London, presided, but the star of the occasion was Mr. W. T. Stead, the Editor of TAc /l„.,n, „, Reviews. I cannot describe Mr. Stead's style of speakiinr except that it is good, for Sidney Smith savs: "every style \'» good that i. not tiresome." His voice is pleasing and flexible He speaks just as he writes, indeed, I would have almost recognized him without an introduction. This famous editor is a cogent and logical reasoner. His mind is singularly acute and well-furnished. He is a master of bitter and caustic irony and knows his mother-tongue, which he uses with a boldness which nearly approximates dogmatism. His views are ennun- ciated ma way that leads you to believe that they are incon- trovertible. To Mr. Stead, "words are things." He reminds one of what /^«m//l- Z)»/n//v said to ^l//c<., "When I use a worditiijeansjustwhatl choose it to mean-nothing more or less." He has an uncompromising hostilitv to war, and would inaugurate a holy war against it. He would "drill the raw world for the march of mind." The subject of international disarmament was thoroughlv thrashed out, and winnowed for an intellectual and highly enthusiastic audience. One went away with a whirling brain trying to think whether the burning words were only the clothingof a highly chiseled or transcendent ideal far beyond mortal reach, or whether in the golden age to come, men should in reality beat their spears into pruning-hooks. "Who can fancy warlei^s men ? Warless? war will die out laie (hen-will it ever late or soon' Can It? till this outworn earth be dead as yon dead would the moon? In the evening we went to hear the Rev. Hugh Price Hughes, the editor of The Methodist Times and ex- president of the Wesleyan conference. He is immensely popular, and is THI IIIPKBSSIONS OF J4NIY CANUCK ABROAD. f9 usually conctdcd to be an tagtging, intellectual perionalily. I felt piilty and stupid, that I was disappointed in both his matter and style. His remarks might be termed "felicitous" Then he told us much too, about 'ilmself, where he had been what he had done, what the n<. , ^r-rs said of him, and of the wonderful results of his prea..l,i„i l i ,. p ^y^, , ^.re precisely articulated instructions to the /n.n-Iiu a, io«,at the Rev Hugh Price Hughes exp^cl^d >., H„, H„ds.,m< iltle inform^!, tionastowhatwasgoiiiff on.:,.v,i(-ere>„ ir.ui;. .y Englanii. Mark Guy Pearce, a. othjri; . different stamp. You cou'd uot hf .Metl.o.l'.t >s ofanentireK- 'm'.i ti'o offenor too lonfj. London is the most voracii. . city o;i ihe earth. Her kitchen absorbs all the world's surplus, which she classifies under two heads— "home-grown" and "foreign." Any English beef which turns out fibrous, is pooh-poohed as foreign, (by which she means continental and colonial) and the juicy tooth- some meats are English. The best mutton is labeled "Canter- bury lamb", and the poor superannuated trash goes under the designation of "Australian frozen." She will point to the f?.gantic Canadian turkeys that have been butchered to make a British holiday, and will tell you that they are Enelish-all English. It has been said that the only fruit which ripens in England .s the baked apple, so of necessity England must look to alien sources for her supply. California sends her pears; Florida oranges; Tasmania and Canada, apples; her cherries and apricots come from France, while the Mediterranean fill, her lap with grapes and tangerines. Yet these wonderful English people grow under glass, better grapes than are ripened by the hot suns of France, and pineapples which surpass anv imported from the West Indies. This kindly fruit of .he ean'h .s, however, only raised to relieve palate-weary people who are I 70 THE .„PR,ss,ONS OK JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. butter retails at twenty-foufcenulichs ,««"!„ ""'"" purchase it for in Toronto. Our white eh, , ""' "" "Canadian Cheddar." but th favo e t^'e ' G "" " It .s made in Italy, from eoafs mill, % Gorgonzola. years to ripen, when it o^esenK ""l.""" ""out three Eggs are :ot;old byL'7::\TLr'°'''''''' '"''''■ and at the rate of from eirrTf. ^"'"''•"S ^ their size, says there is a genS 7pl^- ^ " '" " '*'''"'"^- ''">-'• grocer is able to classi v h f T^'""""' """ ''°"" ^^"n- Asparagus, sea-kale nl« f """' ''^' ""^'^ Purchases. .H/firsfc.s-wht'.r.rd"' ;"mar tt: ^''°- '° cabbages, beet-roots and carro-s. "^ 'urn.p-iops, Hng-rrrsxr^^^^^^^^ her need, yet -hat a variety o'ffotisal°dwha"t "ZT "' farmV truly -a perpetual Lst of nee ar'd sweet H """ crude sufeit reigns." <=i-iara sweets, where no ^ St. Albans, Dec. 23, J. We were anxious to place K * P ;„ „ 1. and with the help of Me'ssrs Gabbifas LdTh'"'^ "''':' scholastic agents, finally settled on one in S, Albal^ ^^^ "' fordshire, twen.y-five miles from Londo "o^e: coni: do"'" here to sec th .- bairnies and to wander about thi 1 o„n .^ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. 71 .tands on the s.te of Verulanium, the .ncient c.pit.l of Britain W^ fTp *;"^'"''"''"''^ ""'he conterminous .m,t of her Empire. The shadow of the ancient city is about twenty feet long, for only one bit of its archaic wall remains A soft m.st of antiquity hangs over it. and over the semil fabulous deeds of Boadicea and her half-naked warriors who overwhelmed the Roman Legions and massacred the inhabitants "eft alive'*'' ""' "" °^ "" """^y-'^-usand Romans being We attended the Abbey which was founded by Offa the TernbleKingof Mercia, in memory of the Proto-Martyr of Christianity in Britain, Albanus, a soldier of Rome who was executed In 304 A. D. With no custode to distract me I wandered through the building, studying the old frescoed' which thanlcs to Lord Grimthorpe, have lately been freed from their coating of ..patriotic lime-whiting and democratic glue" or in trying to discover why the windows known as "The five sisters are different heights from the inside and all the sam! height ourside. The nave of this Cathedral is the longestl the world. St. Albans also leads the world in having thf old est inh..bited house. It is an inn known as "The F^l, Cocks," originally a part of the old monrstry '^'^'"'"^ My landlady has just been in and left the visitor's book asking me to read some doggerel verse which a departing ^uest has written in praise of the house, and which effusion she te"s me IS very clever. This is a custom in England, and she has hinted that .he would appreciate a like favor at my hant Lend th '" "°' '''"'' '" "* •^^''- '^"'' "■'"• I '"v" or London, the servants stand about painfully anxious ,0 perform some office and all modestly expectant of rewards. AsoneTs often arrested in England for a smaller offence, I |„vari" blv S.ve to .hem and then declare all the way back to London S no,hing-abso!u.ely nothing shall ev.r induce me to do so again. "" ^o 72 THE iMPRESSlOXS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. I rr, London, Jan. ,oth., 1899. Petticoat Lane, now Middlesex g»tla to withal, the zest of discoverers We foonr'r" "«^ '"'""'^^ -dres, coats, pilots Jaclcets.\h:r:er.r: ^ .I'ilr''^^" "sober livery" and livery of hr;-ht i u "*"'"'"& S"'ls, P-aid. n,i„inery confectioL.°LS WeTs ■;!?: """^'"^ say kerchiefs, bedraggled skirts! boLlothspaisc ^""'"• petfcoats, bootblack's coats, dressing./owns' ^er"";"' greatestcontrastsofcolor, '. Dresses for wZ!^' "'' '" and fall". Old Londoners boast t at thercauf :?';""',"'" a man belongs, by th, degrees of dirtini ^^ '^^^ being the case, whole volumes could (,. ,. •.. ^'"'' .'f Petticoat Lane. Superla^ iltr I-Jro'^'d f passer-by, to invest in dead men's shn« r «■ ! ^"^ "■* and Shoe-laces, may be had aTbo torn rock oHc 7' """"" Gentiles bandy words over second-handed u.s^es ^'Z T proceed to "wet the bargin." "isterettes, and then A policeman took us throuirh n,» c . pointed out the Me^u.ah, a nlr^p l ' f me't^T' t '"^ ""' the door-post of each house It 1. , r pk,, '^ "*''«'' ^° •Thou sh'alt write them upon hVoJ^orh "' "■* ~'""'"'"'' On the scroll are the word's of ^Cv T^l^Tx. "" ^^'^"• the butcher's stalls, w. saw the sea of he / ' '^■"- '" It bears the word Koschen "ri^h,' ^'*'»"»"-' or watcher. .ood and pure, and t d fn sCh^L^r '"^ -"' "^'' diseased meat is disposed of to GenS The b', \ ■"" ^' fusely extravagant with ^as „ '"• ^^^ ''"'•^her is pro- U belch forth it great tofTHesofL^r"'''^ '"' """''^ ^"'^ '"^ --,csi.--fi-vzxi\ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. u„d.rfi H r'l '"^'^°°^ '"''* '" hi, pawnshop, on hi t 'rr °"'"« ^o'"- "all,. A "pave„,...t artist" is on h,s knees drawing p.ctnres with chalks. He blends the nd's'olo , ■""■"' °' "'' """"'■ ^^ P''- '"'° » »y-S°^" filthvTdlTi"'*!"' "" '""''' ="="?"■ The building is filthy, and .he benches unpainted. yet in spite of their mean HTotTru:'^ '^°^'^'''-" ""^'- -'^ "«^'"« ■•" -' ,h, 1°''' "r!^^" ^"■"' '" """"^ '"'"'•'"^'i hy tailors. It is the home of the sweated. Only those who give up their live, o the redemption of this place, know of the cruelty and hung f,nnd the face of the poor, for this is "Darkest England" and «e are "the unreached majority." Some people qu ckly k M heir decrepit and starveling poor, but these English tortur them ,n a slow and more refined method. The Bishop of Win- chester says, "The .ones of enormous weahh and degrading poverty, unless carefully considered, will presently generate a tornado wh.ch, when the storm clears, may leave 'a good dea of wreckage behind." *• We pass out of the Jew quarters, through streets of untraceable crookedness. They might have befn marked ou oranl„d.a„tra,l,orbythemeanderingsof a drunken man. It .s best, I imagme, when alone, to wander forth without any preconceived plan and lose yourself for the nonce, making cnquines later. We visit the scenes of -he murders of Jack-th! R.pper and afterwards, I sl>udder past the hulking ruffians who -Murk pnvily" in dark alleyways, but ,he fear fs almost groundless, for the police are Argus-eyed, and crime no longer run, not. VVh.techapel thug, prefer ,o ply their iniquities in hells that have screening walls, and in gin-palaces, where ugly vice I, dedshrou by a tawdry glitter. It is a land that lows with blood .nnd beer. jm- V ^ hastily pass throih He« ,"';:r^ '" "■%«'"»'"' q^r.ers we. house has been lateW erected f . o- ' ""'' '"«^* '"•"■•"« ing their at.e„"io„ .L ,.; h / ^^ authorities are turn- beggarsstartleZwiththeir^r-f",'/"^'""^""""- '^'- h.seechi„,ha„dsi:;L ::::;f ■^:^ ;l°— ». '-.ir aJepts of the art in Canada, """''°*'- We see no such and which send out such "snicv L . " '^'°"' "'"dow.,, Hisn,oreusua.forthe™.op':'ch :rrh ,7 "" .'"''"'"■''"^• fish, most lilcely plaice or fJZT *'^^^-P'""y^ worth of hot-water, flour oVu^:^;;';', t^" , ^he women buy tea. be coolced for a half-pen' ' whilh i j"^ ' """■ "" '"" "''y lighting a fire. ^ " """^ economical than ainer?nrv:nt^tcaCat'"Hr' "' ""' -'" '-sting, wood, and shrimps shrHh "^ ""'""" ""'' '""'"'"^■ insistence. Cha,':!irs.thrrrers tir ^"'""^ J0.n in a riot of vociferation "Buy a co^he!" T ^""'"^ "Lavender, sweet lavender " ..;m^, "'"""^-P'-OP." "milk-o", ™en in varying tones, but ',. w.^ t^ ^ T T''' '"^'"^ An old woman is sin^ine a ball»H , ? ^"''°™ P"'"^""- dancing bear, but thfTtfrattraSnTs""" !""' '""'"' ^ Who h„„ „„. ,, ,,^ ,„^ Penlta^c l^Te r " "^o;'"tr Thebellof.heI;iraXT:rarrr ^""^ "'"''"'■ straw-color disappear as if by mag"c '"°'" """ "^ One cannot fail (o ob^rrva ti,. l THE I.MPR1SSI0NS OF JANIV CANUCK ABROAD. 75 of poverty to their very lees. They are having their hell in this world, no matter what may lie in store for them in the future. Men are black beasts. One day science will teach women h< w the race can be propagated without their aid, and then we will St mg the drones to death. An American essayist has more truthfully than gallantly, defined marriage as the insane longing on the part of a young man, to pay the board and lodging of a young woman. It is not so in the East end of London. It can be said of the youths, what Jerome wrote of the priests in his day, "They want nothing proper to the married state-exeept wives". Nor do the maidens burn the Vestal fires indefinitely harlotry is rampant. Indeed, the sexes pair like any beasts of the field. As in mercantile life the full-purchase system has largely become obsolete, so marriage by the installment plan has supplanted wedlock as described in the book of Common Prayer. Who can wonder that it is otherwise, when so many girls have a history like this-"The bastard of > harlot, born in a brothel, suckled on gin, and familiar from earliest infancy, with all the bestialities of debauch, violated before she is twelve, and driven into the streets by her mother a year or two later.' This sin-cursed region has rightly been styled "The borders of the Kingdom of Darkness. " It is the garbage he?p of the wealthiest city in the world, into which the refuse, ofl'al and unsightly things are dumped out of sight. The Church Army and tambourine lasses are doing an incalculable amount of good in the district. Without the alloy of selfishness, they pass in and out, dealing bread to the hungry, binding up the broken-hearted, repairing the breach, and restoring tiie paths for men to dwell !n. Their methods are practical. Once a man is converted he is sent to work among his own class. De.m Farrar, speaking of the relation of the Established Church to these people says: "Our present methods do not reiicli them; toour elaborate theologies, and our routine ceremonies, they i i JSbim "riddle of the entitled "The " of London. The curse, are: '• Neglected children. Professional thieves. Professional heggars. Fallen uomen. The curse of drunkeness. Gambling. Waste of charily. .- 'nce!Thr«'rh riit nr/r ''" "-" '"-^'" ^- ■■-- "cepting only the sevemh.^' "'""""'"^ '"^ "" "'"-S -holeissaidtobeacoun yl/t , r;"', '"^'""^ " ^ Pera.e. ar , very abstemious people Thf"' ""' '"'""■ have congested in Whitechanel T f '"'«'"P«rate class depravity and unalloyed rnse J """' "" ""'^ "^ «"'<"'' II. in. IV. V. \i. VII. tM i f.uNnoN, Jan, ,5th. Every Thursday, I go to the Ci„. t Parker, and each .ime / am ' 1, ^ * ^'"'P'^' ""'"•• O^' J"«P'. -terancesand strong pe^^..^^'^^'^ I^'' "^^ '-"chant «-ata.nym..eo^4.m^::ive^.:;;;r^;::-:::^ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 77 upon which sixty yean have printed their tale, and a broad majestie forehead give iiim a great dignity of appearance. He is dramatic in gesture, and spealcs as one having authority. Sometimes, his voice drops to a whisper, and again, it is raised in ringing emphasis. He has a vigorous vocabulary, and a sense of most exquisite irony. Yesterday, he preached on Eccles, VII., 25 and 29. "Men", he said, have always sought to know a reason. It was so in a memorable interview, in a memorable garden, "Ah Eve"! nothing between you and complete success, but just one mouthful of fruit. Yes Eve! Vou will know all about metaphysics and physiology and psychology: Vou will get behind the north wind. Eat and be deified!" Man has always sought a philo- sopher's stone, a lost key, a missing link. He is a foolish man who prys too much into the reason of things. Light is only one syllable, but it holds all literature as a dewdrop holds the sun. We cannot explain God: He comes to us in conde- scension. He lays His glory by, that we may not be afraid. Comprehend God! We cannot measure beyond our arithmetic, and at times it goes mad, and our minds fail to comprehend its jibber and jabber, and immeasurable cipher. We try to climb the stars, when we have no ladder. Why not say, "I am five feet high, and beyond that I cannot reach, except part of the length of my own arm. If ever I walk on the stars, it will be God's good time, but in the meanwhile, life is duty." True, God is a mystery, but a mystery of supreme light, but we must choose between a mystery of light, and a theory of darkness. The negative is more troublesome than the positive. No prison is so awful as darkness. God did not say there was a God. He would have belied His credentials He assumed God. He did not say, "You must pray." He assumed the religious nature of man and said, "When ye pray" We de- grade the sanctuary when we preach regarding the existence of t ! 1 78 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANLCK ABEOAD. ■ng' salnravs h»r>.> i j j . ""■^""•swords. The sine- singing Ze'/oTL ch?.ef ""~"''"^^^ -'" '^^ TK , "^ " ""'P""" *'"> ">• churches. coj:Lr„'^o:;r''cu;" cr;"'' " "- '^""•"« "^ '^* colored alabaster. I, , ^ "' " ' ^^''^m thing of stained rdo^do rdi ^v 'thr '"T "" '"^'"'"''- ^"^ drapery.splay feet JZJ. . """'' '*'"'* *'"' ^Possible cop; o^joZlTLiT'^iz :; he r^d - " ';• °"^ '^ ^ dedicated to Dr. Livingstone whLhreirMK''"' """"^ '^ -.uriaM„West.iLerACjr^:-4--. "Open ,he Abbey door, and bear hi,,, in "e nte;'XM^„ -^;H -o^.. „o Wer w,,e. Let marble per„h->hi, is Uvi„gslo„'r GntspurTrLr^^dfirth'": ";:^ "'-'"^ '"-^^ ^- - .non.r.i.iesa„d.i,eLp:,^-:--::;;---w... THB IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANICK ABROAD. ever, the most popular amusement was the burning of witches and heretics, hence it was known as "Ruffian's Hall." It was in Smithlield that the Lord Mayor killed Wat Tyler, and in 1305 William Wallace was here beheaded. This Goljrotha will always be a blot on England's escut- cheon, and on the memories of those apostles of religious bigotry, and blinding fanaticism who here lit the torch anJ whet,« the blade. "Rome of Caesar, Rome of Peter, which was crueller, which was worse?" In this squalid mart. Protes- tantism was thrown into the crucible and the nation read some hard lessons by the light of the fire. Two hundred and seventy, seven persons were burnt before, in the words of Fuller, "the hydropical humor, which quenched the life of Mary, extinguished also the fires of Smithfield." Here, the flames licked up the life of the beautiful Anne Askew, she having been brought hither in a chair, because forsooth, my Lord Chancellor Wriothesley, "stockish, hard and full of rage" had almost torn her body asunder on the rack, and so she was unable to stand on her poor dislocated feet. To this spot too, came John Bradford, John Rogers, and a host of other "Holy men who died here marty'd and hereafter glorified". It was a hard problem the church had to solve, for what could she do with men who passed to their death with light steps, and the words on their lips, "This is life eternal." Their hones, with scarce a semblance of humanity, were buried where they fell, and now a tablet marks the spot. To the memory of these saints, and that of my own good ancestors, who suffered and died for the salte of the Protestant religion, and the liberties of England, 1 laid a wreath of laurels on the stone, all the while repeating mentally some lines, the burden of which was "Lest we Foiget." _::i::::^:2^«" ^*"^ "■^•"« ab-o.^ ! f«B. 1st., London. Deputations were brought fro *, . ?T °^ ''^"' "«='"'"■ "y special trains. AUho'I u.'""' ^""'""' ■>"" Wal.,. found it hard to gJ^ZZ'^ "t""" °' '"'""'"'""• *« «'^o.in^erushtLtfi;,ed Hettib'u" 7, "7 ''"""' "" People, (six l,„„dred of them d.,1 , "''^ '" '*'°"""'' great amphitheatre. ^'''gy™") were seated in the .-;:st.^::;::::^.i:'^^^-aird. said this .eeti„, .3, the 'l-y. he had received 68 r.;'" "T' "'""^ fo-o'dock that on. from Nottingham fa?d .^'"7'' f™m al, parts of the world, and ,vomen, lovL civH lib. ! . """'"'gn^d English men 'o maintain the grand 1 e ^P ""^"'^^PP-' ^-^ efforts °«es her greatnfss." To "is teC '" '" ""''=•' ^""f'-" n-es. everyone of which r,X:p::" '"''"'" '•''' ^-^^mT:::^:.^:^'":?- '-^- ^u^. Samue. M. P.. Lord wTmbornPKr^''"P°°'"'^'^='"^« Cooke. ;n-^P. Of Brist:r;nrCoSt7dn-?'"-' "'^ J^™" "r ;::;:5 X;^- -- - -'."a:, iz::^; - "e t.a: .hefrai, o'f^the i^s" i!" ^Terlt °a7'°"v '""'"^"' almost ie- the horns anH h„ f r Z . ""• ^°" "uld -emthattheA:chbi:op'':fv:k rtht^^'tr- „" "°""* them ai;, for the va.f «J- ""'''"' '*°"'an of TH« IMPRESSIONS OF JAHMV CANUCK ABROAD. 8l to b« p ..„d to direct h.r Prim. Minister to take the necessary ZZ h" '*".""""" «"■■- of parliament to suppr 'e Romish practise, now in vopi. in thousands of churches to Col": H s'"" '° •"'""" •"'•'"•"« '" '"• decisions ';: Council, and thus put and end to the anarchy and lawlessn.sl which convulse and distract the National Church "*"""" .,Il.H^f"""°"°/,"" '""""'f' " ""■""" °f his admirers called for a speech from Mr. Kensit. The chairman decHned o voice the request, but they persisted for fully five m nu e, ..11 Mr Kensit rose, and in heated words said, that by ad' graceful arrangement he had not been allowed to speak It is quite evident that Mr. Kensit has been cold-shouldered by the Evangelical party. They object to his designating the Protestant movement as -The Kensit Crusade." and "o ! selMmposedtask of leadership. Privately, the Evangelic speak of him as an unknown, presumptuous commoner,^, u^ bear, an incubus-the.r -old man of the sea". It i, , ue that he , not a gentleman, even in the widest stretch of that very eUsticterm, but still i, was by these same objectionable trais tZt:X:'' "''-"' '"°"""'- - '^^ ^'"^y P-"«ine„tly head^'H-^""*"'""'' '°'"' '° P^^bendary Peplo. as their ^hn M ■""! ■"'"' """"""" "« ^^'""« -ovement. He thoroughly understands .'he subject, is a quick and accurate disputant, and his words have a manly ring i ^ MiaoCOrv RESOtUIION TUT CHAHI (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No, 2) _^ APPLIED IM^GE I, ^^Tm '653 fost Main Sl'««| S%= fiocheit«f. Utm York Kfino ,ic. ^Jg ("6) 482 ^ 0300 -PI,on^^ "^^ ^S ("6) 288-5989 -Fox 82 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. London, Februarv. Br;dJ!"'^»''"'''''°''°^^''"'"'""">'P^*»=''ed yesterday at St Bride ». His sermon was alone the line nf "Le ■• ," teachi,e" in which the clergy tfllu! from ■ , '"^'^'°"' lamentably deficient. U w!L h d- eade"::sry o^he"'' 7 worn topic of Baptismal Regeneration h1,^. "'"" question was what rnde Dis! e ' wou " eT the''" "' ■ -"^ elaboration o. a lie. His Grace preached Vir'thfaidTf't excessively ornate staff, which in no way improved « 1. . ous discourse. He could not even bv 7. "'°"°t°''- be considered a popular prea'ch^ intr, i: f stewd suspicion that a Canadian parish is the b..k • probably starve him out. "^ """"" "•°"''' Having cast this little stone of criticism I mi„i„ our Archbishop has the uncommon meH. of n'o er^gTn te' side of prolixity. He is logical and concise in exZsion . man of enormous erudition and of rugged mental strenTtLH- position at the present crisis is no sinecure Sttm^H^l u Shot and sh.l, from all quarters of th^ Chu^n L: t'h holds a true balance. When the smoke of battle cU,!. it will be seen that with sanity of nerve and hru 7"^' » steady finger on the pulse of'the bod ecdes „t c ' h/ /"I man of sturdy rectitude, has a depth of charitv ,h7, • • provoked, and a width of visions Vhich can see '- "- "^ ' one of any mooted question-He needsitalir " "'" Rev w'^HatAitkel'T"'"'"' ' """"^ ""' '° ""■■ '"e Rev w. May Aitken. In personnel, Mr. Aitken i, »^ll . ^ d.gn,fied. He has a masterful carriage a wel nn . Au i a ihin, sensitive face. A Yorkshire vnl? "'"■P"'"'' ''"'' ^n" Aitken used much ritual "Ri ul „.' "'"""'""'""f M^" and se. a prayer and then SrCarC.^^i,;.S THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD, 83 illustrates Mr. Aitken's practical activity, the great mission preacher is also a man of wide culture and intensity of feeling. He possesses a remarkable knowledge of human nature, and a faith that is clear, sharp-cut and well-deHned. He has the power to fuse his thoughts into subtle words that have a spell in them. Words are to him what colors are to a painter. He thinks well, and so speaks well. Mr. Aitken's audiences cannot fail to be impressed with the fervour of his earnestness and the glow of his holiness. He is a master of assemblies and his words are as nails. t^ February, Lomdon. I had my first ride yesterday in a horseless carriage. On the whole I prefer ths horses, but still it has some advantages. " It doesn't shy at papers As they blow along the street ; It cuts no silly capers On the dashboard with its I'eet ; It doesn't paw the sod up all around the hitching post ; It doesn't scare at shadows as a man would at a ghost j It doesn't ^aw the manger, It doesn't waste the hay, Nor put you into danger When the brass bands play." I drove to 5 Cheyne Row, Chelsea, for forty-seven years the home of Thomas and Jane Welsh Carlyle. The sound- proof chamber where the crabbed seer wrote "Frederic" is in the attic. Every inch of the house was interesting, even the closets, which Mrs. Carlyle described as roomy enough to satisfy .iny B'liebeard. I touched the copi-s of Carl •!.•. I IJ ! «nd why not? Hi/wWting, ^ t „r """"""hings, Vou can feel hi, he.rt-beats Tn ,H '"T ""P'^ '"'»'"• historian or essayist, can we attrib, , "^ "° P^'osopher, more piercing insight or f«rfu, « ^Treater critical acumen, sage of Chelsea. And how .h" t"?' """ '" ""* ^•""•"l^ inside out! We are .oMtl' H "''"'''■■'''»'* '-"d f - pickled misanthrope, an old „,M 7!" ^"''"'""i''"'. a s< .. unhappy wife. Nev;rt^rels „Zu '' " ""'"^'" °' '"^ unfathomable depths of love in hi. \ " "'^" with well-nigh hands of William'of Wyleham's sL':"' """ "'" "" ""^'-^ frlool.""" domlstil'disIensionT"''/''""' ''^ P^vishness, his 'i="ened, and on the altar of 'r *' •'"'°^ ""^ """'"-e Carlyle with bloody ceremonies p ""T? ''"^ i™n.oIa.ed His Wife. carpings^ere'reHhe ^e':, "of ;' "'^ "'^^ '''^^- "low spirits," yet he oren=„H I, ■ ''ngling nerves and hid no evidence o his'tho " 1 '"" '°' P""""""""- He atonement as bitter as i was '"""• °' "'''"'• ""' ">»"« an a great soul do ? ""gnanimous-What more could «^ U . '•"EORUARV, L0.NDON. It IS an mteresting operation eJu "''" w^' made. mill one hundred and twenty coins per mfnute "" """" ""^ A great deal of Colonial cor„ • THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. 85 ed, were great piles of s^old. It has been pointed out that there are no gold-mines to speak of in England, but yet it has more gold than in all other countries. In the waiting room is a collection of medals and coins and a skeleton cube 33I inches in length, showing the size of ;^i, 000,000 worth of standard gold in mass. I felt pathetically poor, and as if I badly needed the Gol.J Cure (not the Keeley) but tried hard to think that after all, " this was only a common place of solid granite where they ti'rn out dollars and rubbish of that kind." Having secured an "Open Sesame" to Newgate, I was duly admitted to this gruesome gehenna. Strength and durability are written on every line of its thickly-massed masonry. Its smeared face hat passed into an adage, for one often hears the expression " black as Newgate." In the room where criminals were pinioned before execu- tion, the guards show the axe that was used for decapitating the bodies which had been hung. The corpses are covered with quick-lime and buried under the paving stones in the " Bird-cage walk." a passage covered only with cross-bars of iron. Newgate is much the same as other prisons : " The graled bars and iron-studded door, The cold, bare waits and chilly pavement floor, The hammock, table, stool and pious book. The jailor's stealthy tread and jealous look. ' Since 1868, the public have not been admitted to executious, which formerly took place on a scaffold known as " Black Meggie." In 1882 Newgate was condemned as a prison and will be shortly torn down. Among others imprisoned here were DeFoe, Dr. Dodds who was hanged for forgery, and preached his own funeral sermon in the chapel on Acts XVI. 23 ; Sackville and Withers the poets, and Penn for street preaching. Lord George Gordon died in Newgate from jail distemper. ^he prisoners are f ' --H.„,4,,:- '"^ >v.o,e p,.ee. THe veV^Llf^r,^ N««'ffate stands for ...he ah ■ 'he abon„na.ion of desolation... a» LONDO.V ^"' ^^''■"N'SSDAV, ,895. '"^'JNSSDAV 1800 A red sacrament.lam„ 1 Poetised in the cliur.i *!. ^"'"^'' 'hat the R», '>-' 'o the Rola, '■ , ""'"^ '"^ -rvice i """"" "•^-' p°'-'°" Of ina^di';;:':^;';:,! "- -- .-s .n::::s^^:^,r:,r' ■-'-ofbein,.,„i„„^,^„:- ^"'^—inandiMeo:'; ;:;::; by the server i , . '°'>' ^ater, and ,h ■ """') The cler^,„an nt;';7'--"''-^^«vi,h tens:/;"" '"^ ■^mud^.e of it to his tl 7 ='»"'"-"n,ent, Zula >'■ ^'--" --ra„eri"',j::/^;^.ued rj^^, ^J "■^ " much a, ,„ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. «7 -say -Aye! there's the rub". I was seized with an Irresistible teel.ng of the ludicrous; a surprised nervousness, that moved me to unholy laughter. He then proceeded to put beauty- mark, on the faces of the servers and clergy, and lastly, upon the congregation. The first to go up was a bunchy little mademoiselle from a nunnery. She came back with a dirty face. Venerable gray-haired men and women followed, only to return with flippant, rakish looks that were sadly unbecom- mg. It was a realistic pantomime, petty and inane, and by no means tending to inhance one's ideas of dignity or reverence. I did not wait for the communion service, so cannot tell when they rubbed the soot off. I could not bear "To hoar the blessed muUer of the Mass And see God made and eaten all day lonf. That such a service should be tolerated In our church is inexplicable. I suppose It will presently find its way across to Canada. The clergyman with the ashes facing the people re- minded me of the words of Isaiah: "He feedeth on ashes;" or the curse on the serpent, "Dust shalt thou eat all the days of thy life . Surely such men have spiritual dyspepsia, or are drunk with the dust of their idols. The gross atoms of ashes he held, from which the beautiful ethereal parts had disappeared leaymg only ruin and death, graphically symbolized the spiri- tually oxidized religion he taught. It is a religion barren, and without life-a mere refuse, fit for nothing but to be trodden under foot of man. The apples of Sodom have become dust and ashes. PtYMOUTH, Marc ' '"*«CH 30TH. ^« have been si ™' """^ 3oth. .... ^°'"B vta Bath " 's quite warm here T.. ^'"'«r. The V ."h . ■ ^°' ""■■« has h ^^ """ "-e ;^.^'-er partVto :; """ -.'^'' « - haTe Tt 7 ^^ ^" 'hmg-, oftheueJv.„„'V *'^- ^''e Enghsh k„„ , """"« '"" climate does not in:°°''^ .""" -"d caprces "f '"'•' '^""> temperature ZCT^T"'' """'' "or do °' ^ ""'• ^hl f-ce meet i„ Canad'af """""^""^ "emands M"''" '"^"^^ of Di """St per. ''ou.e'lritt'^'' ■""'-''- pans. P, a "town" for ther! '" P°P"'ation is „' '^'>'"°""'. Stone- a" "P-c.imb°: ' ' o'n'r "'""''"' "-e The r *"" '' '^ °"'^ r^esen, a cuwf „» ?", "" *"«P acclivities the, "'" "* ""rly Icnee. """"'• ""'^-"PPed appearance! aVrr^tro""" The Park th "Freedom Field •■ "'f""^" °" the height of I, . '" '648, after a four v' "" "'^'^'"'outf is rL,^'""', " «lled -"ad. their fina, aid jr" ^-^e, the Plyl^l '" "'<«"'. ^°r >vere commanded by p""' *'""" affains^thek ,"""'*'"''' "The Great Deliveran "" ^''""'<'- Thi i, '""'"^^ ^^o '•■■■e'd ".00, because "^^ " ""'^"t beJLj.T''' ^' °f q-stionable o , he""'" "' "''^'" "nd i "'' * .''^^"''om --opice.;-— -n-.o2£r:i-t^ '"°"g' the servant THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. 89 girls such a thing as virtue is almost unknown, and as for the soldiers and sailors, while they enjoy a reputation for bravery, they do not (or morality. We spent a morning in the dockyards at Devonport and had to give in our names at the receipt of customs and have It vouched by a well-known citizen that we were not dangerous people sent to spy oi.t the land. The dockyards are being enlarged and when completed w.ll be the finest in the world. .Six thousand men are employed on the works and the annual wages paid amount to *2, 500,000. Under the care of a policeman, we went through The Ocean, which was launched last year by the Princess Louise, and ,s now being fitted with machinery. It is the flagship and the narrow gallery which runs around the bow is the Admiral's coign of vantage from whence he directs the battle. The vessel is heavily armour-plated over the boilers and magazines, but the bow and stern are mere shells, so that if a ball struck at either end, it would go through the vessel and do less harm than .f ,t exploded inside. The Ocean's largest guns, which do good work at fifteen miles, are of forty-six ton weight and are made of wire so that they expand in quick-firing. She also carries some twelve-pound Hotckiss guns. The naval auth- orities believe with Tacitus that the Gods are on the side of the strongest. Other ships were being built too : "Titanic forces takmg birth " that one day will carry mutilation and death in their brazen throats. All the iron and steel required for ship building are cast in the smithies on the dock, and here too the machinery is made. The lighting plants are manufactured and dynamos tested in the electrial shops. The cordage, with its one strand of color- ed thread, is chiefly the handiwork of women and girls A 90 W ti. -^!::::^o^__;,_^ '"Se department of the „ ,. ~^ " f'-om the West r„ '"ow-white cr„;. ^-"-nancarWeTa °" "^'"^ v.^e,'" / °;^f-cM,ve,ve' "; '".y would sento dlr"^"-'"^- -. w c, o °°" ""'-'■ °f >^«"- He earns hi! •"■ •'"'' •"•o e j °" ^"'"^ '"W a" ■>««. All =.. " '"°"ey like a (, ^ ''"««•■ fish ou. ^' abortiv^r:;,':.'" '"''"«'"•" -'.h":::.;"'' ■^''^"'" ■■""» sou,. '"a-ns and bad ,,ea,. ^TZ''''^'"^ "em to . , ""' P"'-fc'e his bad ^ 'ew days afte "•■> modern pTomatn"" '■""'™« "as cen tr h" '"' ^"^"^ "X "'thech/Idof thl "'' *'■"• 'f'.g^Z- ^""'^-'■aced, ■"°mentcan,e for th/'"''"^ """^ "'' C'" "■""^"""s to "■«« '^as a dead ,i, '"°P* '° fa". *e 7l T'"' ^'■«" "ie :'">'-a diuir^f- 'Hi„/o:t:;"^-'="-.forat horse-power. She wi," K '^•°°° '°ns and J^/ "'."-"attle- "----andalX^nron;o-«--anrr ■■"'o shape, w/ 7'''^* 'he awkward " "'■"' " ""sfre | h-t .he 'entrrLt"""'' '" ''''""IZT *'^'' ^-'en '^''"'Penin^toour^ftein \'''''"'''' ^'C< U '""■*«''« """ *e *ere more i ^'' ""' ''^ "'"t oft;. " '^'"' father "Pectedtoherrr Jda""^"' "^ .he next o;!'"' """P" '"'-^ "^ oti-er. but w' h ''\'.^"P«"ers or ■• „,ch ' ,'"^'''^' '-« """"'-k.n^s and Ws,:: n ;. '" ^°-- 'S». ne push- THE IMPBESSIl'NS OF JANEV CAMCK ABROAD. 91 cd on and addressed ourselves to some ii. portant person of the Falstaffian order, who asked no troub. some q lestions, but called a private and tolj him to bring us 10 Corporal S of company G, and tell him to show us whatever we desired. A rattling game ol football was being played with more vigor than science. The contestants were burly, strong-knit fellows " wanton as youthful goats and wild as young bulls." It is a fit pastime for those whose business it is to kill men. Corporal S ■ as a milky-coiiplexioned chap, and by no means a mine of information, but by extraordinary diplomacy, we managed 10 secure some little information. Wr thoroughly "did" the barracks of Company O. The recreation room is large, contains papers, a billiard-table, and games in plenty. Most of the bools read appeared to be of the "pennv-dreadful" v.iriety. The canteen is at one end of the room. In the bed- rooms soldiers were furbishing up their accoutrements and pipe-claying their leathers. Each soldier sleeps in an iron cot, which folds up and consists of "three biscuits"— a military term for one pillow and two blankets. His meals are served in the room where he sleeps. It is an old saying, that an army marches on its stomach. This being the case, Thomas Atkins should be a good walker, for his regimen is decidedly -'halesoLie farin' ". That day for dinner his rations consisted of mea', trea^i potatoes and vegetables in generous quantity. The kitchen was scrupulously clean, and the smell of the food was appetizing. The white linened scldier chef who makes "things to eat", is trained at the Aldershot school of cockerv, and can perform culinary feats th t would drive an ordmary cook crazy. A one-hundred pound meat pie does n.n stagg- him. He can tell you off-h.ind to the very ounce hew much flour, pepper, salt and meat are required He can cook in-doors and out-doors, with or without a stove, or on any kind of a stove used in the British Army. He is so well-trained in domestic economy, and in the science of utilizing "truck 'als just a-going 9i ^"^ "'-«..,s,o.v.s or ,,,,, *o waste." that k. . ■ — ■ • '"-"try c,e;/n,,r '." """-' male. bucHe .„h ■•aiwd ,o $, „ *'*'' *«'" forihree year, r '*'"'''" ">. cook a Pnvaee. '-^^ " ""•". "".eh .. «„ ^To';;,'^;---". his pa; t Half ad ^""^ '^'"ure for '■" ">• guard h°n*" '"'"■^ '■°'Merer5 wr.„H • «.uaiLl?r:,:r-'''-ha.,erflt;"'--^-^o„r hours J""' ideas of h „ ""^"^'"fe private doTnJ''"''^' ^ ^'""^ -"^ -uM no, Tbe. ";J^ "-" S'-Oedb/M ':",■! '"'""""--e -"^"t:;S«"„f "^ '° .he Barbican docks n -"«^. mostly ;„h?4tdT''^eedi„g roolcets' " '''™"«'' " ^"^^ "'iltle to earnnl ^ Seafaring peoni' ' u '' "'"■''°"" ^b^' °f Odors" It, """"' "■ ''"p •• tL "* ""=" -h^ ^°"'- deep hj/. '"'' '<»">ds. F;.^'- ^'" docks are » ''-''-nd'^£,t„'L°^^'''"'^°™i:aY"°P^''^ f'-.. .aiSed^:;^ or «... ti^rr; J:"::™" -d Jos„ed '""■ Mackerels, pilt,!'"-,""^^" ^mp-'ed La ' ^r"'' ""S^- ''"d O'her queer fi'i'"'' ■'°''" Dories If' ''^'''«' at our •"^ Kin,do^„.- «'"• '■" '"ere see.ed \ ^l;--;^-. 'o....: /t supply sressor was the THi IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANl'CK ABROAD. 93 shortest way to America. It was not so in those days. With all their failings, the Pilgrims were the right stock to create a new nation whose people should be lovers of civil liberty. Near the docks, and facing the sea, is the promenade called The Hoe on which a monument has been erected in memory of the deliverance from the Armada of Spain. It bears the text Ftavitesl ditsipali sunt. It was while playing boles here, that Drake sighted the Armada, and said, ' There is time enough to play the game out and thrash the Spaniards afterwards." On the Hoe stands the old Eddystone light-house, known as Smeaton's Tov.er. It stood on the Eddystone Point for one hundred and twenty years, when the rock began to give way beneath it. I ascended by stairs, above which is the living- apartment, with a coffin-like bed, and around the walls the words, "Except the Lord build the house, their labor is vain that build it." The topmost room was where the lanterns hung. It is surrounded by a gallery railed in with ir i. The view from this point is rhapsody-inspiring and is f 1 to be unequalled for beauty by anything in England, taking in it as does a radius of one hundred miles. In a distance of magnifi- cent sublimity, the veiled mountains of Cornwall, loomed vaguely, and waved a tempting invitation to speed thither- wards. Sixteen miles stands the new Eddystone light- house, and closer still is Rennie's wall. The weight o( stone in this huge breakwater is equal that of the great Pyramid of Egypt. It Is one mile long, 360 feet vide, 50 feet high, and costs $10,000,000 It hurls back the heavy seas, that used to beat in from the south, bringing so many wreckages that the Sound was called "Dead Man's Bay." Close to the tower is the wonderful Saltash Bridge built by Brunei, and near too, is Drake's Island, a cubical mass of rock, heavily fortified. Flanking the town rises Mount Edgecumbe with its long dark belt of wood, and beneath in the offing, lie foreign merchantmen, fishing smacks, yachts and great battle- 94 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. ships. The sun is bending- westward anH .h- k j lengthening, when I reluctantly t rr Jse, frl .he"s "" whose wondrous beauties , can'not tr^aU Iword; '""" freaks of nature are not connected wi^h each oth.r K. •''""' ■ntervals from the weather-beaten b" seide, "' '"' "" " wherein to hide, and if a break werride d " "" T""'"^ THB IHPRISSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 95 from the pen of the acutest historian. We dawdled about doing amateur botany and geology till the fresh live air made us all sleepy and glad to hie homewards. ♦ * « » One day Prebendary H of Exeter Cathedral, who is Rural-Dean of Plymouth, took me for a drive into the country to visit some of the churches in his jurisdiction. His office demands that once a year he shall examine the repair of the churches and vicarages, the register, plate and other church property. He meets the clergy and wardens, and inquires into the conduct and affairs of the parish and reports his findings to the Archdeacon. The office of Rural-Dean is not merely titular as in Canada, although they have same idle dignitaries in England too, for Bishop VVilberforce once congratulating a Rural-Dean upon his zeal and success, received this reply, "Well my Lord, I believe some people are under the impression that I am mad". "All I can say then" neatly answered the Bishop, "1 wish you would bite all my Rural Deans." While the Prebendary put the Clergy of St. Pancras church through their facings, I wondered about the cemetery pluck- ing flowers, reading epitaphic literature, and listening to the tattling of the rooks, who seemed somewhat perturbed by my intrusion. Here in their last quiet bivouac, lie English officers who fought in their country's battles. Many of the dead are as forgotten as the roses that fade year by year over their mould but not all, for the inscription over the grave of an old man of eighty-one, records that he was buried in the dust of his betrothed wife, who died sixty years before, at the age of eigh- teen. The Church of St. Pancras is interesting too. It looks so spick and span, and yet part of it dates back to the days of King Stephen. Driving to the church of St. Budeaux, we heard "the steady tramp of armed men" and presently a company of soldiers 96 j;»J»^^^^^S OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. tutional of sixteen ^..sTvef; "Ih"": """"^ *"' ''""y <=<•"«!- for one month each 1"; in Jr7 . " *""' '° '="" ""» ">"=•« •""Che, of a campaign *° '""" "'"• '° "" P^'^^ed -M -Tn^TS::,7 -X''^<^ ''• «"""-. and the Vicar ^■> J' I Su^^uhf pVroi; nr^" '"^''"'' '"'' "-^^ -« atbein^reprimanded. ,*"''"''"'" ^^^y "-"^h hurt - -henwewerS^e ,'e':^'''"'^ --' f°' «h. right sort-fwooTjflTT. ■"'''■''''''* ^''"^ -'»' "f "* "adheid .he SI f:,'',^:,^^^^^^^^ succeeded his father and LTf\ '^"'^^""^'y yea", and had iealousy of social dispaHrlthr ^'"'^ ^"^"^' "-« - of'thequaliiv" Th! t ,"" '=°"'"'-y. 'hey are proud caste and do noi ail at t'T. '"!' "'"'"' '"^"'"'-^ """-^ but when these laT. l™ ^ ^"^ '^' """""^ °^ '"*- "e.ters. an officious a ra„;?amn">"r'"^''"^''''' "'^y «' once affec and fam.hanty that are most objectionable tea pZZ:if:;:;:rz\i' t y^"^^' ' '"^ '"«« """'^ at sweetmeats AHss Told. /T '""'^ '='""''• '""' -"b'e ^^- 7>W., mamma e. .at" " "/r"" '''"'"■ ^""^ "^"^ airy nothings. On thil Z ' """""^crsation rurns on Parish Records, ,osl^owme?h"°" ?^P\''-"8ht out the old Sir Francis Dr^ke to Ma^v Nev "^"'.""''" "^ '"« ■"»"!»«« of Sir Fernando Gorges"h7fi«t r "' '" ''> '"" '"^ """»' of who died in .635 °""'""°' "^ ">* ^t*'" °f Maine, cusse? my^Cair:"!"" ""'": """^ ''"^°-' ^^ '"ey dis- THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. 97 ^"^ > ""Z""'" ' *«» "hy I always "fixed" things, but I gave ^«W///as „y authority for "I guess," and .he usflf gotten for the past participle "got," as an heritage that had come from England with the Pilgrim Fathers. They were all under the impression that I spoke with a decided Scotch accent So much for the second generation of Irish Canadians! Old St. Andrew's Church, Plymouth is pregnant with historic. nterest. In it is interred the heart of Admiral fiTaie who died as h.s ship sailed into Plymouth Sound in 16,4 Rain bows of light, from the stained windows fall on the eLies of of all the tender pathos ot the here and the hereafter." Charles II. touched for the King's evil here, and once Dr Johnson listened to a special sermon prepared for his better' ment by Dr. Zachary Mudge. '' Outside a beautiful cross seventy feet high has been erected to the parishioners of St. Andrews, whose bodies in he la,t eight centuries have been buried about the church The records show that two hundred years ago there was a heavier -harg. laid on coffined than shrouded bodies, the former occupy, mg the ground much longer, and so preventing its use again It IS estimated that m it two hundred thousand people have been laid to rest-yet not to rest, for the ^. , of to-day have violated the graves, and have laid naked hands on the bones They have broken, and spaded, and leveled them, and all the clay we tread on here, was once human and laughed, and loved and was ambitious. '"'cu, We spent a day "out to doors" as they say in Devonshire at the seat of the Earl of Mount Edgecumbe. It was o^ of those .1 usive spring days that cheat you with a deep delight of physical well-being, and of strong youth -a rare golden dav free from all anxious thought for the morrow. 98 J:!!:!!!!!!!:^::!- i-Hv "-- "«o.„. wandered along pa„,s, fringed with eut, T""' '"''"<""^. °r and camellias, and on past laim 1",'"'^ "^' '''°''°<'e''drons. chequered turf ,vas like ve vet TL T"'' ^'■' P"™™« throated larlcs and thrushes robinslnd": °" '"'• ^weet- the brucken-covered uplands The,e » ""'' '="""«'' °«r andcomorantstoo,anddrunken-flilL!T .r^""'"' J»<='«'a»vs pant between sea and sky." Herds off.' '''''''"'"^ •""^- ^hyly through the laurels' lin,es and lacca "t r'."""'" « "' "• ""-^ "•'°" '"^ ~- -d Snrio^ihe h^r^s""^" o--^^'^^:S.::S-;7- opportunity corktree that nestled qnder the ee of . ^^' ""' ''"'''"' « head huntsman's cottage nriittr''"' "'^°"'"« '"« round pebbles. We had plenty of d"„ V"^'" P"^'' ^'th 'unchisin this county is comL!. Devonsh.re cream, for no J^n.et. The latter is'acompTuTor;^--'-'^ "-" -^ Devonshire cream when spread o„ h^' ■""" ^"'' ^P'rits. ^o'den syrup is locally knowras-Thu'd ".' ''""'«' «"" Ti, ' as 1 tiunder and Liehtnino- " The estate stretches out to Penn r • ^ '"^• n^.les, and while the gentlemen walked, hVh ' u''"" °^ '*<> r^^rnr^'-— srrrrSerr -P-i: t:rr^rr:-2:^-;e.r the „e« Which slum-district. The transition fror^h t-'' "^'^^y' °f the Mount Edgecumbe.to.heVairj he r^''"' ^""''>'-'-'' °' crouches at its base, was painti .„ ' " °' ""'" "'»' that for sordidness and pi.iab I ^ "e rtv the .""" ""^ '-"" passes Whitechapel. It forms whr v "" ''""* '"'• dung-heapofsouls'-ahe^erZeneo ^^'T ""^° ""^'' "« to mouth in the midst of revoZ7°:^ ft' k"'"^ '™"' '-'' dead varieties. "«^ •""•' °f ^^oth the quick and THE IMPRBSSIOXS OF JANEY CANUCK 99 The houses are plague spo.s in the ci.y ; real human shamb,,,. whose best visitors are the merciful'a;,,els of del h Ts hi'h r" .H 'V"' "'' "" P°°^ ■■'"' ">' '--^d-s feet. Ike fhVrV ".'?"" ""^''' '*■■'""' '"-"^ 'o '"' "oots. lo and soles tT T'' ""■ """ "^" ""P'"' '°-«. ""'^ verrnt, filth 7h "T '"' ""' '"^'"'"^ mildew and hu^ani" • '"' "" """"" "^^""""^ """""^ '"* '«s of Closely following ,he curate of the parish, we warily grop- ed our way up dark staircases by the aid of ropes, through mouder^g garbage and trodden-down nastiness The muTu c,pal,.y have compelled the landlords to place these ropes TeTe o prevent the unfortunate tenant, making head-long'p "ng ::;::^>:eant." '''-- '° "''- - -- -"- "^--^^ '"e Mr. Curate pushed the doors open as he knocked and n.ered wuhout wai ing for an invitation. He usually said Goodmornmg! I hope we are not frightening you," where upon we would be oflFered chairs (if they had them). Lt I had been forewarned and declined the honor, indeed, as I looked at the remains of crush d vermin on the walls and at the aihe, broken-food and fish-bones that littered the floor, I fel, thai he c.ut,on had been hardly a necessary one. The ^eop lodge hke peas m a pod, whole families living in promisculV B.shop South was not wide of the mark, when he faid that I'e ch.ldenoornm the slums were not so much born in'o the world as damned into it. They are conceived in sin ad shapen m miquity. " Owing to the overcrowding, from their birth, they nre accustomed to inconceivable vice-they are " maimed for v.rtue,"yet the authorities, governmental and ecclesiasticj are agreed that they /,„.. souls, In the first room we emlred an old woman w,th re.l, teary eyes was minding "a bottle lOO baby "and giving it ,ips of gin and wat.r i. needl-woman, and during ./e « an upstairs room generally carries the rilh; rf. ™"""S "f copper. The women spread the we do h "" °' '"*' and rubbed them with s'crubb ng bT h /eri ' "h 'k """■" washed i.: Canada with metal wash boaM' '^ *' ing machines, but I fear h^trfH' u""^'" """ *»"''. housewifely a'ccomplLhtrnt'^re "gLl'""' '"''''■ °' °"' efforts with a song .hat ran something like th":""""""" *■" There's nowt but grlumpin' in the ouse. Upon a washen' day. " The facilities for cleanliness are not such a« »„ woman lay prostrate on the ground H r i.!- u '''""''«" matted. A sac. tied round hfr^^dy aL co'^Id heTn^ THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. ness. She was loathsome with disease and unmentionable hl.h. Sd awful an object w« she, that I could hardly believe her human. ' "oeve Hi. /" Tu'/T ^ ^"''■^°°^'"e, intelligent man sat up in bed. H, foot had been crushed four years ago. and he had not »alked s.nce. He was childless: his wife was deaf, he could not read. He was rebellious and who could wonder, for hi, hours wer. days; his head ached with wonder and his heart wthpam. Outside, the slum.babies, " Satan's Godchildren " were dancng to the strains of a grind-organ and seemed the only happy th.ngs in the district. True ! the little girl, are . ound in slavery to the ever-recurring infant of the household but they seem to accept this as inevitable. In appearence they remmded me of Phil Robinson's description of the low-caste Ind,a„ children: "Images of God, cast in mud and never Some few of the rooms were clean and well-kept, and in one an old woman laying dying. It seemed as if even her minutes were numbered. Our slumming suddenly became an impertinent intrusion, an ugly curiosity. We were looking at these people as we would fossilized toads in a museum. The Padre knelt beside her bed and committed the passi.^- soul to Its Creator. He said, as we groped our way down stairs, that we were Levites passing by on the other side. The dark distress, ugliness and pain perplexed and hurt us. We were not so confident about our age after all. Why should these people go down in sight of land ? If flesh and blood cannot enter heaven, surely something of heaven can enter flesh and blood? Lhrist has come but when cometh salvation ? " h I T! f ",'? "''' """ ""^ '■""y «° '° " P'«« °i worship but tha he left a tract in their rooms once „ vcur. He assured us that It did not do to get too familiar with them. We had the honor once of being the guests of the Bishop of Stepney THE IMPRESSIOKS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. ! ii the apostle of the slum,, and he told us on that occasion that only 1 ^ of the inhabitants of the slums ever went to a church- except to get married. On the whole, the Church seems to handle the slums with damty finger tips. She is content to touch the mere fringes of the work. She dwells too much upon her efforts of the past while her present efforts are terribly inadequate. Needs erow .nfimtely faster than the Church's endeavors. She has practi- cally no mfluence upon "the lapsed masses". They are blanlciv indifferent, and faith is sick— very sick. There is not much use either in preaching to people whose spirits are deadened by hardships and starvation, and who are struggling to keep their, footing in a quicksand. Some of them are crying ominously in the night. The working brutes in England s back-yard are growling, and it would not be strange ■f one day they broke their chains. It is a pressing and de- pressing question. The whole matter is not of to-day only it casts a lurid darkness over the future. ^ London, April 2nd., Easter Day. Unless you spend the Easter Festival in London, you can have but slight appreciation of how generally it is observed. Tl i sonorous joy-bells rang out sharply from every spire and cathedral tower. A sun drenched atmosphere dispelled the mists and glooms that are wont to hang over the city. "Christ is risen," was the inspiring theme on every tongue, and one must indee-J be dull of soul in whose heart the words awoke no glad response. THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. •03 I was not a little embarrased in making a choice of where to attend church, but finally decided on ChL ChTrch Wes7 minster Road, where the Rev. F. B. Meyer. B. A., .he eminent Baptist dmnei, the pastor. Mr. Meyer uses the Liturgy of he Established Church with some slight modifications, '^oth infant, and adu ts are baptised here, and can be either sprinkled or immersed. I was early for service, and on entering met Mr. Meyer who had just returned from India and whom recognised by his portraits. He told me .0 goto the fronHnd take any seat I wished. In personnel. Mr. Meyer is a spare man with a pale, clean-shaven fac . and delicately-cut features His mouth IS slightly indrawn, and under overhanging brows are eyes that at once attract your attention. They are LeL eyes, kind eyes, honest eyes, laughing eyes. ,he eyes of one and";"' H "":'"' ""' "" '' *''°"- "'-^ --"" - S°"e and dignified In speaking you cannot but notice his long thin^artistic fingers that somewhat suggest nervousness and The church is octagonal in form, and the architecture is haracerized by elegance rather than grandeur. Palms and lillies were banked about the communion table. It beins the with anftl '""'*'"°""'' '"e morning prayer was dispensed with, and the service opened with the singing of "Christ our Passover is sacrificed for us." The Communion service folloT ed, the congregation singing the Aj-ne to Tal/fs in A. Mr. Meyer speaks with great deliberation, but still holds one .interest from exordium to finish without break or waver He addressed us upon the words, '"And they told what thinJs- were done in the way and how He was known to them in "he breaking of bread." "This, said the preacher" is an idyll of the resurrection: It ..an idyll of our king." He gave a viv^d .ndrealu^ticdescriptionofthetwodisciples walking ,„ Emm.I and of the Sabbaticquiet that rested over the land for the pe^ I "■^1 '04 THI IMPKIfSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABHOAD. had gon. up to the Pascal Feast. These two men "com- jnuned together and reasoned" of all ..,he thing, which had happen^!." when a. tranger joined them from f^e relr h' probably entered into their ordinary conversation, but suddenly startled them with the words: -What manner of commun "1- ..ons are these ye have one to another, a, ye wallc and arTsad?" Mr. Meyer's description of their unfolding the traeedv of .he On, -who should have redeemed Israel" showed matr J narrative talent, and a powerful imagination under the con ro^ of good judgment "These men," he said, "weot as n,7,V . They looked for this Jesus to establish a KingdZ " /to d il'. back the Roman dogs mto the sea from whence they cam." He pithily grouped th(, subject under three phase, of experience- Darkness, Sunrise. Daylight, or i„ a more alllterZlwl Hearts thatbreak; Hearts that burn; Hearts that believe- o^ again, Christ neither seen nor felt; Christ felt but not seen- Christ both felt and seen. ""' Hearts that break! Desolate hearts! Why are ye sad ? It " TJ'^nu °V*" "»"^~=«°" "'y a tidal wave swept around the Church and lifted it to a higher plane. It was a tidal wave of the warm gulf-s.ream that should melt ice-bound hearts. The sailors on the Aegean Sea cried out on Easter Day: '.Pan is dead!" Why are ye sad when idols are be n^ cast to the moles and bats? WJiy are ye sad when Heaven rings with the song of angels? Why are ye sad when the women say "He is risen" ? Christ told his disciples they were slow of heart Their hearts were clean, regenerate, true, but still «, ^A,„. jn describ ingtheslowheartsofhumanity, their intellectual doubts and misgivings, the speaker used keen, penetrative phrases that cut like ascalpe All hearts were bowed and hushed before him and one could not be other than de.oly impressed. He thT,; changed his style of utterance, and « ,h sweet, subtle words THB IMPRESSIONS OF JAHIY CANUCK ABROAD. IPS that ihowed him to have a tremulous tense of pity, and a more than womanly tenderness, he said, "Have I a child who is weak of intellect, dull of understanding, slow of heart, his eyes are holden, he does not answer my suggestioiii < e the others - do I love him the less? Ah! I sit me down, and taking him in my arms, I teach him gently, I give him gifts and whisper, "Little one this is for thee". The conclusion was a quiet recita- tive which was most effective. Mr. Meyer is not a believer in close communion for "all who love the Lord Jesus" were invited to be partakers of the sacrament. In the afternoon I wandered out to the Kensal Green Cemetery. This great necropolis is a mile and a half wide, and laid out tike a miniature city, with avenues, streets and paths. It contains seventy thousand graves, and is divided into consecrated and unconsecrated portions, the latter being for the Dissenters. Sauntering idly through the labvrinth of of tombs, some familiar names began to claim my interest Here lie Tietjens the great singer, and Brunei the engineer Further on are Birkbeck, the founder of the Mechanics Institute, Anthony Trollope, Harrison Ainsworth and Shirley Brooks. W. M. Thackeray's grave is marked by a plain grey slab. Here too, sleep Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, and Cardinal Manning. Tom Hood's monument, which was erected by public subscription, is the most artistic in the cemetery, and bears the words "He sang the song of the shirt". The head- stone of a chorister of Westminster Abbey is headed with two bars of "O Rest in the Lord". One grey monument is in the shape of a huge hour glass. Many stones were marked with the words "The family grave of ," which mean that all the family are buried in one grave. By counting the names, you can coldly calculate how many feet deep of bodies there are in it. This great io6 I i ' IMPHMSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. ^ London, April. .. ..v..,h. .rip,,, ,i™};rc.r;rv;;rr,- when sixteen clerevmen and ni„- i ^ to-night, society Whose ohjeTrouTa^rtL'Toitr :" trG^" ! among the heathen. It was the dav „. i .^ '^°'P'' men with large-eyed hop: otd :utt o^tt f'T' '^ ""^ .hat the oalc-tree is wrapped up t the In J:! Th^t thTfi"^ man represented all humanity Who fh.„ i? ^"' God should use. heir ^rainormrtLdted' ''™'"'"' ""^ It was a quaint old room, and as I sipped my «a b» ,h. l..ht of the open fire, my thoughts leapt acfos., ^e ^"f of the THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANIY CANUCK ABROAD. 107 century to the meetini; held in this very spot. John Vtnn is in the chair. The officers are elected. Mr. Wilberforce declines the presidency. He feels it too important a position, tind so the society must perforce start without one. Strange too! the fathers of this baby society quite forgot to give it name, and it is not until six weeks later that it is called "The Society for Missions to Africa and the East." They are busily engaged in drafting the constitution and have just decided to send a copy of it with a respectful letter to the Archbishop of Canterbury. His Grace, however, took no notice of the new Society although they waited for a whole year, when he was verbally interviewed. We long to tell these kindly ghosts we have resurrected, the story of how the leaves of this tree "f their planting has been for the healing of the Nations — how it has been a balm in Gilead, but alas! they have faded away into the dull, cold land of the dead. I have barely time to reach the great Albert Hall, for it is an hour's journey hence. This hall built in memory o 'he late Prince Consort is a vast elliptical buiidin" cf red brick, constructed in Italian Renaissance style. Arrived at South Kensington, swarms of men insisted on our taking sample copies of The Christian, The Life of Faith, and pamphlets discussing the church crisis from all standpoints — the high, low, sbw, broad and fast, for England is now, as in the days of the Reformation, "a land of hearts that burn, and brains that seethe." Only ticket holders were allowed to enter, and hundreds were turned away. As I watched the disappointed ones fall back, I thought of the story Mr. Eugene Stock tells of the mother of Mr. Cates, a C. M. S. Missionary, who died of fever in Sierra Leone. She went to the annual meeting of the society at Freemason's Hall. To prevent overcrowding only member* were admi ted. "Are you a subscriber?," she was ;- on earth do dweir What a N '"'""'^' "A" People who kneltinth.confessionX.ayX7f ^°"^^ Then as we hushed in a profound and un»ff.^"°"°"' "'"'""' ''"' forget the words? "For a'l the 1 f """''f' ^ho could for privileges neglected and grac "^ uT;"""''" "' ''"^''-^' pardon us. For our sinth ^, """"«''. "'e beseech Thee to CO.U hearts, for o^^ rfe::!:^;'"?^ ""J ''"^''"" "" ^^ forgiveness. O Thou who did „ "' ™P'°" ^"^ oursakes,giveuswillir!„es ' '"' ' """ '*°" f"' of contrition was folic::;"; an^'Ilr'"'^?'. ^"^ P^^- '■nging of th.:.8th psalm. ""' "^ Joy-the glad The Right Ion. sir. T H K-.„ venerable President of the Church m'"-'' "" ''*'''"'' '""^ .i'; THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 109 greetings of sympathy with the joy of the occasion, and he told us again how Christendom had poured out lier unstinted treasure in the Centenary Fund, as a great thankoffering to be presented at this praise meeting. Again we rose tj sing out our thanltsgiving for extension at home and abroad, and anon, were bowed in a profoundly impressive litany. Other speakers followed :-Archdeacon Eyre, with his impassioned eloquence, the Bishop of Sierra Leone, and Mr. H. E. Thornton, but the great ovation of the evening was given to Mr. Sidney Gedge, M. P., who only the day before, was the mover in the House of Commons, of the motion of severe --ensure on the four thousand Clergy of the Established Church who were members of the English Church Union, and which motion was carried by a vote of two hundred to fourteen. Again and again, the deep-seated Protestantism of the people gave vent to itself in prolonged cheers. It was an enthusiasm which fired the blood, slirred the pulses, and lit Ihj eyes of that vast assembly. Protestantism has not forgotten her baptism of fire and blood, and when the suffering and memory of her Martyrs shall no longer be objects of deepest veneration, surely "it requires no spirit of prophecy to fortell that English liberty will be fast approaching to its final consummation." Perhaps the most impressive part of this impressive service, was the recital of verses by African and Indian clergy, men "black but comely" who had learned to bow the knee to the great white God, men whose fathers a century ago were demon- worshippers and now their sons, "clothed, and in their nght mind," told us of "the great multitude which no man could number, of all nations and peoples and kindreds," told us "how beautiful are the feet of them that bring glad tidings of great peace." This bringing home of the sheaves was an cmot.on, too great for the mind's containing. If y-^^^ZZ'^J'-- ^'^ ^^^"'«. can Chnstians, burning wirh/evZ:'"" """^ '^ '""'•• '"«"'-"'' "f joy, and then softly like a c Wd '"'''""°"''' ^ &-«' bur.t Sreat cl,ant, .-When thou had t '''"" '""" "'"" °"' "■« dea.h, Thou didst open .h ' Jn?""' "' ^""^P"'" "^ "''.ever,.- and above it all wf T^ T f "'^^^ •" «" ff-atharpchords, from tie", den r "^ 'hanging of .he r^-— --e-^rt^:^--.^ aborers^hohadentere ntre7;rf ""? °''"*'' ^"^ '^^ "-"^h their n,.i„s. Archb shon t ^ '""^^ ^''"■'™'' '" hy-nn, -The Saints of God the^ "^^'^^^n's well-known thoughts back to the splendid H 1 !"""'" P"*'"' ^ore our -"o for the .estin,o„7of7e 1 t'd,'''^ """'^ "^^ "^ "-"■".yrs 'he feet of the King. ^ '^ P''""" °"' 'heir lives at O"" mind reverts to the first C M S M- ■ "artyn, who yielded up his hero! " *''^^'°"ary. Henry 'hat God measures life ' ^ lo^^Her "l '" " " "' "■- young. ^ '""'^ Henry Martyn did not die '". '^ -^'::..!ts^SLn ^f"!!^^ '" ^'"™ '-- '^Hii- 1 'o the pestilential atmoper7/thi:".T""''°"' ^"^'"^ i ""ring the first seventeen years we' """"'' ^™^-'-" sides a number of their JhM^ '"'^"'^"'"6 missionaries, be- ' bishops died within seven ye rPrf 'Jt '''' «"' '"«« O"' and fears within,- Ur/^..:':^'^:^"''' ""''• Henry During and his wife left ;.. e rest in England. Their ship was ' \^"-'"^'^''e" shores to s'rong heart of the noble Henr- ^1 "'"' °' ''^''" ^he -and. Where he had spent^:ir::ar.ir tit:::: THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANL'CK ABROAD. once coming home. Surely he endured hardness as a [jood soldier of Jesus Christ Bishop Heber sleeps in India. Paul Daniel died of cholera, contracted by visiting people stricken with that disease. Death ever loves a shining mark, and so George Maxwell Gordon, fell mortally wounded while attending the injured in t!ie Afghan war. Norcan we forget Bishop Hannington, Bishop Crowther, George Pilkins, on, or Mackay, of Uganda, who loved not their lives unto the death, or that fierce carnival of blood yet fresh in our memories, wherein the Stewarts and others were murdered. In the power of midnight thugs, they died the hero-death, but One was near to "loose the silver cord and break the golden bowl at the fountain." Ah! it was a stirring and solemn measure we sang that night in the Royal Albert Hall, a measure that opened an earnest of our final disenthralment from sin and heathendom. ^ J London, May, ist. One falters at describing the vajtness of the stately Abbey England's Walhalla, or Temple of Fame. It is a symphony in stone-anew "Book of Kings"-the Mecca of Anglo-Saxon Race. "Here is an acre sown indeed With the richest royallist seed That the earth did e'er drink in Since the first man died for sin." It stands on the site of a temple dedicated to Apolo. The first Christian Church here was built in 6io by Sebert, King of the East Saxons, whose time-fretted tomb is one of the most interesting in the Abbey. THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CASUCK ABROAD. / ! I f i I you eel a facmation, that irresistibly draws you here and makes you love th.s black Temple with a great love. I always enter at the Poefs corner. I have friends there our accua,ntanceship beginning with some poem or readingT,: the school collect on. Within Its enchanted precincts, for on e and stone Speakmg of the Poefs Cor. er, Fuller has said, it ^ enough almost to make passengers feet to move metrically. WI.O go over the place where so much poetic dust is interred/' tanhhiTh"'""'.''';"'"^'- ''''"' Cripplegate. but a ceno- Uph has been placed here to the memory of this blind dreamer T.sLtZT"''' "'''"■ "The poet paramount." who seeps at Stratford-on-Avon. i, represented too among these clustered constellations. Chaucer, "the poet of the dawn " T nnyson Gray, Sheridan, Macaulay, Dickens and Sou.he , a.l he wthm whispering distance of each other. John Gay's epitaph is an outspoken one. It was written by himself. ..Life is a jest and all things show it; I though " once but now I know it." The laurels thrown nto SpfnL's S 'h /'"'^ •""'"'°"' «^«'""°"'- Shakespea" wrote Lm''"'-^"^^ ""'"™^"' ^''^^ -" '"e pens tha; Charfr, {°"'°" T ^"""^ """""'^ "P^^ht. He asked Charles I. to grant h,m a favor, and when the King asked what ■t was, he said, "eighteen inches square in Westminster Abbey"- henee the unusual posture. The inscription, .'O rare Ben Jonson, was cut on the stone at the cost of thirty-six cents which was donated by an onlooker who happened to be ther^ while the grave was being closed. There is a grim humor in the post-mortem kindnesses that erected these costly memorials ,o men who amid the rugged THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '•3 1 realities of a calculating age were often direly necessitous It Ah'w.'m""^"''"-""^ "''" "'■""' """ *•- ^-" ''tone Ah well! perhaps .t was wisest. They cannot pawn them now. Even in Westminster Abbey, Oblivion has scattered her poppy for here are buried many persons of high degree, ^ood men and true, whose deeds have been written in wati ""and the,r memory ,s only kept alive by these crumbling table. . I„ youth, Dame Westminster pressed her roses with tende care but m old age she has forgotten her passions. ' .■,.J""T^"'- ":"' "^ b'a^onings of royal names, for eighteen Queens and thirteen Kings have been borne hi.h r Z bunal. W,ll,amthe Conqueror was crowned in the Abbey and each succeedmg Sovereign to William IV. This is «ha^ VValler meant when he sung, 'These suns of Empire: wh ^^ they rise they set. " ^ nnere Oueen Victoria has erected a Communion Table over the tomb of Edward VI. at whose funeral the English Chuch Bunal Service was read for the first time. Char.ef Lamb has called th.s young King "The Boy-patron of bovs". Catherine of Arragon. was once turned away from these doors, but Death kinder than Kmgs. has brought her hither. Mary Quee,"f Scots lies close to the mother of the murdered Darnley One gave life to this unfortunate youth, the other took it. fn, J^'l'""^°ff'^^"'i '• was opened in ,774 and the body found to be .n perfect preservation. "Longshanks" measured SIX feet, two inches in length. Henry II and his queen rest in their own marvellous chapel. Its roof is the sublime dream of the sculptor charmed into grey stone. I, is said to be the finest thing of its kind in the world. There are three hundred children buried in the Abbev =,nrf many of them are in "The Innocent's Corner." What an propriate name! I think it is Emmanuel Swedenborg's pre^fy ^ ul M4 THE IMPRESSION S OF JAKEY CANUCK ABROAD. idea that our babies who die sinless and languageless go to t highest heaven and have angels for their nurses. In the South transept lies Thomas Parr, "the old, old ve old man . He was buried in .635 and his epitaph relates th he lived ,n the re.gns often Kings (from Ed. IV to Charles I and died m his one hundred and fifty-third year. His yea, which were many were also evil, for at the age of one hundr. and thirty years this hoary sinner did penance in public, havin been found guilty by a spiritual court of gross im,;oraIit3 Fuller, m his "Worthies", tells that on his death. Parr wa found to be covered with hair like fur. and speaks of him a Thomas de Temporibus. .t Z^^ '"°"""'«."t °f P°Pham. one of Cromwell's officers, wa at the time of he Restoration allowed to remain here on con difon that Its face be turned to the wall, and .0 it is . black wordless slab-a stone of offence-a record of haughty rud': ness and forfeited honor, but yet one's eye rests longer on , than on any of the fine monuments in the Abbey, just as in lif we are prone to look more at the scars of humanity than upon their comely parts. "^ Cromwell's grave is empty, for with insolent barbarity his decayed, unsightly body was exhumed and hung on T^rn H ri'ut:; Tf^p'r'"""" ^ ^^"'^ atVstmns. : Hail-but then the English were never ultra-aesthetir. This grim adornment remained there for twenty years till carried to the ground by a strong wind. rs ii.i carried to There are a thousand men and one hundred and twenty women buried in and about the Abbey, but among them is none greater than Isaac .Vewton. whose keen eye tracked ov the hither o secret paths of nature, and planted our feet on 2 rock ot scientific truth. He made the complex simole ,„H unit^^ the diversified. He led us by great alt^^steXo o:' I r THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. "5 Which ,resi™p,,i„,cH;e'd with theTnalr '' '"' '""" Mrs. Nightingale's tomb is the finest in the Abbey Th. I'on doors of the grave have been burst open bv thV t i figure of Death. He is aiming his pitiles^arroj It .he t" whose agonized husbandvainly endeavor, oLd er f^ '„ the enemy. It is a frenzy of love in stone. "" The centripetal attraction is the coronation chair whose glories have waxed dim, for it has been cut and in tiled "n over. ,„ „ , ,He fan,ous stone of Scone, which ha a Ig J each end, and a crack that almost cuts it in two On tL ■? 1 Hill of Tara in Ireland, it was the "Lia Fai " „ "Th! ^7 jof Destiny." It was talcen to Scotland and "it i probabfe M 130 B. C. This stone has been used in all ihe Rmriioi, |o„s from Ed. I. to Victoria, and may .^ st S T I' fcond of union between Tara, lona, and Britain It L' , ionce removed from the Abbey, and that was on th/ • .„ ^ ,of Cromwell as Lord Protecto'r^f Wes^n^n" e.HaV"^ *""'°" .srae;'j^t;s^:::rr trcvr !^^'^" -" pillow, and the signet ring of the Almilhtv tI ' '" it is Jehovah's seal of witnl t ^t h?; ^"'^ ""'^"^ that I^rae, should be verified an^, tll"^. "Xlt.rt ." , m.-.ybe at .he present time they must have 1 s ,oIe ( possession. They also tell us that it was take,! to I 1 . '" Jeremiah and B.ruch. So says legend,''::: s^i c. yfo he^ wise, for geologists who have examined it carefullv ,.» , .at it is undoubtedly a sands.one from the"^^ Cot'Tf In the cloisters is a great blue slab, known a, "t Meg". Underneath it were buried the A^bot Tnd twenty!!',; i-%-1 I i monks who died from "The Black De«,h" • m.n,ter Abbey is .ometime. called .'Th J '" '^^- W"'" "f England/' and this slab '.S Jl' ?"™« "f 'he Church have not been found wan.inlin ,!m t r' !.' """ "" f-"°" covers a body whose name plhap, TilT i ^''" "''"""'' ^-n.a„dviva.Ke...^er:;^rr:i:s:*r:^: .omer:e7„:ir::;htr^H::rrh'-'''^"' •" '^--^- or to ponder overacuaint epitaph f!''.''',"? ■'' '"■'"■""^''■ tiring of them, I rest me in a ouf.. "^ '"^er pathos, till Silence and fall into mortuarvr •"'"", °' ""'' '^'""P'* "^ thedead.and.gone,andout:ftrrn, '^ "" "" "" °' centuries, glide beautifu'l forms in brolT '"'!""" °^ P"'' ladyesofoldetim^-whocurTsevH ? """ ™'^»' "f"'™ back into nothingness ^ '''•'"^' '° "* «'" "-ey tremble Death is a great leveller, for he lavs th • • vanquisher side by side, and so I smile at h7m ?'"" ""'' Normans and Saxons to renew theTr ba»l ' "^^ ' "" "'« But it was a sad mistake I made f^ . ^ '"'"''"'"'" "'d- dumb voices, and the LanTr,, °"" "'* "'^ '" f"" "f with the Yorks; th Cata"i"s T" mT" ""'" "'^■'- f'"" and the Anti-Jacobites^^lt^rtr'The't'li:":, ^°T''''' and once more I am alone. "^ brazenly .Heslfrrd::?clTB^,:::Sf;:;;-H^ a„d from Bluff King Hal and his wives'- OuZm 1 L ?' '^' P*"«"'«d; Charles .. and the Cromwel and a rwi"' n T'"" ^'^"^^ their pale, Khastly faces would renew Thl " °' "" '" held in abeyance. 1 leave them a„dT . """"'* '° '""& the broad toleration of DeahrA'w""'*^ '° """'' °f "many mansions" in the Land ^hat is^LZd." ^ """ ''"' '" T THF IMPRBSSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. "7 London, May. A building of rare grandeur i, Westminster Hall The largest room in Europe but one. it now forms a gigantic vestibule to the House of Parliament. * It is said walls have ears, and 'tis a thousand pities they have no tongues, for these might awe and interest us with argu- ment, appeals, debates, decisions, cries for mercy, challenges proclamations, music, shouts of laughter, clang of armour' death groans, festal echoes, and burst of minstrelsy. They have listened to the oratory of Eurke. Fox, and Sheridan, and the epitaphs of "tyrant, traitor, murderer." • ,„. '^''™°^''V'"""'^''""'''°^*«''so many nobles, king, artists generals, princesses, abbots, cardinals, clowns judg« monks, ambassadors and queens. To be instructed in uJ Ubleaux. heroics and tragedies, is to know the whole history of England. Its fantasies and wildly chivalrous deeds sta up to challenge one's attention. ^ Here, at the coronation of Richard I. began the cold hooded massacre ofthe Jews. Richard ,1., wt competed the Hall, gave a "ho-sewarming" for which tw. thousand ooks prepared a regal feast. All the coronation b,nquet" from WilliamRufus to George, were held in the ''IZTlf Westminster At these entertainments, right royal in th^. way a panoplied knight with blare of .run pets, rode into the Hall and throwing down his steel gauntlet" thrice defied 'o 7,f.\TTrV!:° "'"'""' "'^ "^"'^ °f '"• Sovereign, t: King then pledged the Royal champion in a silyer cup which became his properly. ^ >»nicn IlS THE IMPRESSIONS OF JAN*Y CANICK ABROAD. This venerable building laves its feet in the Thames, anj we read of an inundation in 1238, when the people crossed the Hall in boats. The subsiding tide left a quantity of fish stranded and splashing in the mud. A brass plate marks the spot where Charles I. stood to be sentenced under the banners taken at Naseby. Cromwell was inaugurated Lord Protector and Anne Boleyn enthroned on the same spot. In this Hall, Baxter was arraigned before the infamous Judge Jeffreys.' Others tried, were Sir Thomas More, Archbishop Laud, Guy Fawkes and the seven Bishops. Two whole days were spent in reading the charges against Warren Hastings followed hard by Edmund Burke's wonaerful harangue that shall last as long as the English language, a declamation which has been ranked with the Crown Oration of Demosthenes. Standing perhaps in the same place, the Padrj repeated its finish, "I impeach Warren Hastings of high crimes and misdemeanors. I impeach him in the name of the Commons House of Parliament whose trust he h.- betrayed; I impeach him in the name of the English Nation, whose ancient honor he has sullied, I impeach him in the name of the people of India, whose rights he has trodden under foot, and whose country he has turned into a desert; lastly in the name of human nature itself, in the name of both sexes, in the name ot eveiy rank I impeach the common enemy and oppressor of all." V\'e could see Warren Hastings, cringe and cowet like a whipped dog; the women are in hysterics, and Mrs. Sheridan is faintini' near by. The nation had not learned then, what Gener.-ri Gordon told her later, that England was made, and would hold her place, not by her Government, but by adventurers. The police e,xamined my chatelaine h.ig to see that I carried no dynamite into the House of Parliament. You enter this huge, opulent edifice through a corridor lined with ducal petrifactions in white. The police keep movinjj the crtnids THE IMPRKSMONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. the present are. but har.i„ „.. •• , ""■""ng^ erected in k;_d 1- ""y S«"""e for a cursory glance Th. Outside, runs London's greatest hi?hwav-Th. Th U may be said of this city as of Tyre- "Th 7 ""' by the indistinctness of their outHnes th- ''^"'''''' up the Canadian snoivs at set of sun ^ i-hfir:!::^r'S':;r^:rt,'^^^' '^^ ^""'"''-- worth's sonnet, "Ear h hat^^ u ''""S^"'*'' Words- Dr. Bridge, tU; orS^o w! tXtrir ^"1^ '° ^''-' " known as "Westminster Brl^^ '"' " J°'="l"ly you use this ter.~n;o::. "^ ' ^^ ""^ ■"-' be explicit .„e„ boats\tt^::dt°t°'tV;f f--='-/"cide station. Pohce soon as they touch L' water \ yTun "' 'T-P^^P'^ «''"'>« as point. Two "blooJs" saw her wil^r^ ST'.! jumped off at this claimed "^,oo to ,o sle dr. ;"'-'" -'xak^n" ■'""'?°^, °"' «" two who immadiafely sho' I J ■>' .., , ' '^P''^'' """'ber alone!" She drowned. '" P'"''"' "-i-'"' Let her TH« IMPRISSIONS OP JANIY CANUCK ABROAD. London, May. "The Britiih Mujeum"— As a child what vague 'omantic images the words called to my mind, yet now after fpendinjf quite a month in desultory wanderings through its misty hallii or in close study of its garnered treasures, my ideas are still chaotic and crude. All I have fairly grasped is that it preserves record of the birth and annihilation of races: that it is a history of death. I found it profitable and interesting to study the museum m the light of Hegel's Philosophy of History, taking the Assyrlo Babylonian Monarchy as>the childhood of history; Persia as the rough, turbulent boyhood; Greece as the youth; Rome as its manhood, and the present as the old age of History— old, not in the sense of decrepitude, but in the spirit of ripeness and strength. No section is more interesting than the Egyptian rooms It was Egypt who lit our lamp of knowledge, for ere the arm of her power had withered, she was the mother of arts, letters and science. Superiority, elegance, and variety seem to have distinguished her every industry. Her old domesticities are not the least interesting, for someway the) jring you more in sympathy with this dead race than do their stone tablets telling of victories, law, and hunting. You begin to realize that the Egyptian did not differ widely from the Anglo-Saxon after all, for here is a wooden model of a house made twenty-five cen- turies ago, and the "Lord and Master" sits meditating on the roof while his wife kneads the dough in the yard beneath. Here too, are my lady's tweezers, hair-pins, fans, caps for her hair, necklaces, ivory pins, beads, buckles, sandals, linen, combs, mirror, bracelets and writing material, for in truth she was a fashionable dame. THE IMP«M„o», OF JAM.v CAKUCK A«,OAD. That th. children of the world'i dawn w.r. .. r ^ . -...». .p2:r;;s,'X'tr'"'' '«"-'■""• "• roast duck,, bread da^eTZ "" "" '°"""'' '"='""«' «nd wheat, for the fertnt'fR ^"'''"' ""'*' P^^'^^-tes, than?o'rd^L':r,r'a":"r '"""''■'• " ■"-' °"'" - shapes and wear,i„, p„U^ t^^ w^? To" ^r^' """'"' for pouring wine, for mi,i„^ „ „. and water L"?'"'^ *'?' merchants), for drinltinff wine Th,r ' '" "'* ^^ to contain oi,, honey or'peXe A, ofT """''""' ^"" decoration. colorin/andXrofin J "" """""' "' brought to light bvthe ,„,7 ,. , ^' recovered treasures -pressed mfl^e tha ' he u'-". '""T '."" "'='"°'''^'^'' ""- .xilic period. They were 'd^'ri'K?'^ '"=''* "^ '"« P«- -. bear the nan,:LTTotre: ?:r. L'XI C"" Rameses II. B. C i«, Xh. u • ^^ ''•' *"'' "f 'He woric of .eri sfo'neJut e?Ch"erTh''''"" """^ '" "" entirely narrative. "'*" '"■"*'^- 't is iney are their own monuments, THE IMPRESSIONS O" JANEV CANICK ABROAD. and some of them are more than five thousand years old The ffu.de book to the museum tells that it cost $i,,oo.oo to mumm.fy a body in the best style, but it might be done bv a simpler method for $40000. The very poor, only s,lted the body for seventy days, and then soaked it in hot bitumen. The cost «,as slight. The practise was almost universal, for the people be, eved that after many ages had passed, the spirit would re-mhabit the body. The numerous canopic jars in thi! section contain the intestines of the mummified. In modem Enflir""l "%''!'" ='"''^""*"f' of Egyptians that the tnglish people-the he.rs of the ages-have gathered here. The wrappings, in some cases, indicate the position and occupation of the person. , There is something strangely facina- mg about these withered relics of poor dead mortality. On the soles of the feet of one who was a priest in the temple of Am.n-Ra, ,s pamted the representation of the enemies of E..ypt put there to indicate that they were to be trodden under "foot' Cleopatra, the daughter of Ammonios, still wears an ivory comb and a wreath offlowers on hair that is the dull red of Florentine bronze. It is not such a stretch of imagination after all, to realize that "A heart hath beat beneath that i;athern breast, and tears adown that dusky face have rolled." Here too, IS a musician with the cymbals he clashed three thousand years ago, and in another case, on a withered hand that had been exquisitely delicate, was a ring inscribed with a scorpion A young singer from the Temple at Thebes looked girlish and pretty through her wrappings of burnt umber. The lines of her breast were still rounded and beautiful. The mummified children were not unrolled. Th- adults of the Roman period had painted shrouds, gilded faces and bead- work coverings. On a few. the portrait of the person was painted, Some lie in their sarcophagi, like gilded picture, in wooden frames. Most of them with their dried heads, lugu- bnous visages, and stringy throats, are uncanny and awesome THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANLCK ABROAD. One thinks of Tennyson's li ; ; on a :;'■«. in„ .., „ ,. ^, nkcn^-.e..o.na,an-.i._..;ii:;-S=e.^;:;::: shameT" ^^ "' '"''"-'''" '°° "«''«'' •° "e The gazelles, cats, dog-s, crocodiles, apes, hawks sn.kes -d .b,ses, which were kept sacred to the Gods in theCp e were also mun,m,fied. Grimalkin seems to have been t .e worshipped wh.Ie alive, and preserved in his death. It i doubtless true that God made the cat so man might have the pleasure of caressing the tiger. Judaism ""f j'^.^o"-'-" '"-'-ted Buddhism, Brahmanism, Judaism Confucan.sm, Shamanism, Taouism and Christi Lach Idol IS the embodiment of some stranee veamlno- ^ ^ or hu i, .Hat has crystali.ed into an arfi:r::;riS.°^;h^;'' are all dropsical and ugly as huddled devils. They winked heir at, sensual eyes at me, for like the witch of Enio each ha tha forget, ng my native austerity, and self-restraint, I stood lo is'h old'" "'""• '"■'"'^ "''"' ■""""" »' '"-^ -'-iy looiish, old scarecrows. ' iew/*^' Tl^ ■'T ""*' '^""' "'"' "i"«'™able stones,u„valued jewels, dating from the barbaric opulence of the timesof Ptolemy to our own days. The police follow you thro gh. he room, observing your every movement. What an obdur!,. materialist John Bull is. ,o be sure- He thinks "e ai:m these glittering baubles, and so he carefully watches thein would infinitely prefer to steal the Rosetta Stone, o the Codex "rrX"LT-oot:"'"'-''^^''^ guarded condition. t^M Before 1 could see the Reading Room, I was obliged to give a name (supposedly my own) as a sunicieiu demonsfi^tion f,.^'^ '24 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 1 I that I was not an anarchist, assasin or dynamitard. There are ^hree„,„esofbook cases, and each case is eight feet hig The room ,s m rotunda form with a glass dome. Each reade ■s provided with a chair, a desk, a small shelf for his booksLk pens blottmgpad,anda hook for his hat. Baedecker ays ook a V:: '"■'''' '■'"'"'' °"^ ■"'"'•-.-^•'t hundred thousand books and they mcrease at the rate of thirty thousand per an- num. Howtrue is Solomon's aphorism: "Ofmaking many books there ,s „o e„d." An illiterate Englishman looking at these book, remarked, "No wunner us English be a rare sharp peo pie, just look at them books we read." One looks long at the little prayer-book Lady Jane Grev earned to the scaffold, and.at the first book printed by Caxtn ■t .s on vellum. Here is Milton's agreement'.o give hi. book «ner,/>«W„.Z<.../for ^^,3, Mozart's composition at ei^h Waterloo. The manuscript works of Locke, Walter Scott Rousseau Ben Jonson, Letters of Erasmu , By'on K ox' Frank ,n. Swift. Galileo, Washington and scores' "'others' attract more than a passing attention. ■ ' for in^^ P*"'"''"'''ip of the English sovereigns is uninteresting o m comparison with these literary genuises, their rank is bu he gumea's stamp, unless perhaps, one is struck by the inimi table signature of Queen Elizabeth which has almost as many flourishes as the caligraphy of a Canadian Business CoIlegT. Mr. Gaviller, of Bondhead, Ontario, has given an excellent collection of Indian curios to the museum. The BriUsh publl are informed that Ontario is in the United States of Leric I had a .-Breeches Bible" valued by an encyclopedic person i„ connection with the museum and seized the opportunity'to speak of this geographical error. He assured me that while the author, les were all very wise indeed, they were hardly infallible as was instanced by the fact that in their eagerness to pos , THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. "The treasures of Egypt," they once bought two terra-cotta figures oflsis and Osiris for a thousand guineas, and have since discovered them to be modern clay. To interest the curious, the museum contains the surgical instruments, fire-pumps and carpenters tools of the Romans. Jewels from the noses of African beaux, and anklets of iron from the African slave; armilla that were conferred on the men for bravery; elaborately jewelled and chased rings to prevent cramps; signet rings that were worn on the thumb, and combs of ivory used by the dandies in the times of the "Merrie Monarch", with which they combed their perukes in public places much as the gentlemen of to-day twirl their moustaches. To instruct the antiquarian, there are thousands of links with a dead and mysterious past: profusely hieroglyphed slabs from Nineveh that are sullenly old, giving as they do, the Babylonian and Assyrian accounts of the Creation (at least the foot-note told us so): There are colossal shapes of gods and men cut from a single stone, and monstrous effigies with the face of a man, the wings of an eagle and the feet of a bull. To the delight of the artistic, are those exquisite produc tions of genius, the famous Elgin marbles. They include the friezes, pediments and sculptures from the temple of appollo in Phigaleia, from the Temple of Zeus in Olympia, and from the Parthenon at Athens. Belonging to these marbles is the matchless group of statuary, known as "The Fates". It is a avishingly beautiful representation of the form of matured womanhood, and seems to throb with strong life. The ethere- ally draped figures are the very arch-types of physical perfection and loveliness. But why presume to describe the indescribable? Gorged with sights, the mind falls back incapable of grasping more Like Dominie Sampson you ejaculate "Pro-digious"; you re- cover the umbrella (the guards believe you have an inordinate v., 1 1 126 THE IMPRBSSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. Babylon. "^^ pavement of this second and greater H" Lo.VDo.v, May igrii. "Soon we'll be in London Town Sing my lad, j.^o lio ! sing my lads yeo ho ! ■>avetLta;?ltr:r° '^^ "^>^^- '"--last.ine eves Victoria." P""""'"'"-- O" «"'' Sovereign Lady, Q„een Her Majesty left Buckingham Palace at a r= f„ <: u Kensington, where she laid fh-f„ j • ^''•'S. for South and Albert MuseuTnllLJ,'""'/"'" ^'""^^ "^ *"« Victoria at Hyde Park corler ., V;"^-" '^ '« "er, we took up our stand i" front of the crol hL^ T " '"' '""' ""'"« '"« P""" there fro. ten o c^ck W . !"" """":''" ""'- "•«• -- anveway. and the vtw wrs" ur^rriT ^Te J"' "^ '"^ but to stand and wait foTthe „1- )V. "'^^ "°"''"«^ '"" '' THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '27 the s:ood order of the quiet, respectful multitude, was simply wonderful. Loyalty in the English is a living force. Emerson says it is a sub-religion, and it would appear so, for these peo- ple anticipated the Queen's coming with all the freshness of unworn enthusiasm. A boy near me asked another, why the English were the most economical p^.op'e in the world, and vouchsafed the ans- wer himself : "Because they have kept one Sovereign for sixtyyears." The other boy had his little joke too: (Q) "Why is the Queen like a rainy day ?" (A) "Because she reigns (rains) and reigns, and never gives the son (sun) a chance." An Englishwoman who stood beside me, proceeded to en- large at wearying length, on the excellent characteristics of Victoria, the Good. She seemed to think that I lequired en- lightenment on the subject. When I could stand her patronage no longer, I gave it as my humble opinion that the Queen was "faultily faultless," perhaps even "splendidly null" ; that we would love her a triRe more if she surprised ussometimes.or made mistakes once in a long time. The Englishwoman was not to be put down so easily, and hastened to assure me that if it gave me any satisfaction to know it, the Prince Consort had been a thoroughly henpecked husband. We had "Queen's weather" and the scene soon became brilliant as "the weather curled darlings," flashed by in elegant turnouts. Most of the gentlemen wore diplomatic, military, or levee dresses with their "riband star and a' that." The Lord Mayor and his sheriffs rolled by in state, their incomparable coachmen and footmen making a brave show. And so passed by the Duke and Duchess of Divonshire, the Marquis of Salis- bury, and the Princess Louise, till finally, amid prodigious enthusiasm, His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Fife, with a mounted escort came into view. The Prince wore the uniform of a Field Marshal, and acknowledged I. '8 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. the rousing ovation by military salute. He has a broad-blown face and looks as if he had thoroughly seen "life." He iust bubbles with good humor, and is the idol of the people. With a long white beard, he would be Santa Claus. Immediately following the Prince, were the Duke and Duchess of York. The Duke is almost aneamic looking : the Duchess is not. She sat in her carriage with a proud, self- possessed pose of figure, that was admirable. She looks her rank. White sand was scattered on the roadway, and shortly a deep-throated chorus of welcome assured us that the Queen was approaching. First, came a dashing cavalcade of the Life -aards, their cuirasses glistening like fire in the sunshine. The superb black horses, with their showily dressed riders, was a magnificent spectacle. The clank of bits and golden spurc the c'atter of the steel-clad hoofs on the pavement, the rattle of tne swords and the long bridle chains, had a military ring that was entrancing. One felt a choke of emotion ; a great heart-leap. There was a glint of scarlet through the lush green of the Spring, and the Queen's outriders burst into view, mak- ingr brilliant splashes of color on the white sand. The Queen's U-iim was drawn by four biy horsss with postilions. The Djchess of Conaught, the Princess Beatrice and the Princess Christian attended Her Majesty, who sat in one corner and looked small— even tiny. She wore a dowJy-looking gown and a black bonnet, adorned with a white feather. Someone told me afterwards, that this feather is the Queen's one ex- travagance, and only indulged in on state occasions. I dp not know whether the crowd cheered or not. I could not hear, I was so intently watching the dear, faded, little mother, who has stamped her name and character on the world's golden age. God bless her ! "As Qjeen of our hearts, she reigneth alone." * * H; * THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 129 II Woman w""'"^' '''*•'""' '"e annual meeting of the Woman s Temperance Association. Tl,e first speaker was DeanFarrar. He ha, delicately cut, handsome features Td there IS something monastic in his appearance. His voice is ToT^ and flexible; it is a gamut of delicate intonaUon To the work of temperance, this eminent divine has given an earnest and unwearied advocacy. He ha, touched the verv quick of the brutal and dangerous sin that Englishmen are huggmg to their hearts. m a lifetime. In one generation the British had learned that they must not use the arm of liberty to bind the slave, but in spite of the enormous mass of warning gathered from every cLV",, °"""''' ''"'""f'»«°"«"'. a' undeniable as facts could be, intemperance was greatly on the increase. Th^ daily papers are full of horror, and crimes, attributed by .he ordinary channels of justice to drink, yet it seemed to make no impression on those whose object in life was to live in pleasure on the earth and be wanton , to have hearts as fat as brawn "' cold as ice, and as hard as the nether millstone. The workers must continue to press upon the people the plain fact that if they v71 '"'.'""P'-f Tyre, which if now only a memory, of Venice, which is but a ruin, the English nation would be drag- ged from a prowder eminence to a less pitied destruction. With a rush and rhapsody, this great speaker leads us through deeps of thought, exuberant imagery, savage sarcasm and irrefrag.ble arguments. Throughout his addfess which ludlenc^''''' """"'«•''""='"''"«'' the acutest interest of th^ V.„ '^r ''"™'-»'«f''"o«'«dbythe Rev. P,„jamin J. Gib- bon. Bloomsburg Chapel. He spoke of the "spiritual wick- edness in high places" as evidenced by the fact of three hundred and eighty-one bishops and clergy being share-holder, i„ I(ii ^ ^.^- f' If, '3° THE IMPRESSIONS Or JANEY CANLXK ABROAD. English breweries. He said public opinion should force them to resign their positions or their shares. This remark met with loud and prolonged applause. The audience clamorously demanded a speech from Lady Carlisle, who was seated on the platform. With remarkable spirit and dash for an elderly lady, she repudiated what she calleQ "the dreary pessimism of the other speakers." But then in the nature of things, woman should have the last word. tiJF Colchester, June. Colchester might fairly be termed old, for it dates back to the Christian era. The Romans called it Ctmobelin. To see it aright, you must ascend "Jumbo," which Cutts in his Historic Towns, describes as "a monstrous tower-like struc- ture, surmounted by a reservoir for the supply of water, so large and lofty that it dwarfs and dominates the whole town." The place has an air of vanished prosperity. Once it swung gay or grave to the tread of kings, mail-clad barons, minstrels, stout men-at-arms,swaggeringexquisites, free forest- ers, cavalcades of knights, traders, friars, gilded courtiers or Roman ladies of dark saturnine beauty. But ours are more utilitarian times and now-a-days, it is chiefly famous for its oyster fisheries. From my outlook, I could see the church where the Padre speaks while here ; it is grimly simple, and why not? It needs no birdcage trumpery to add to its prestige, l^r it comes all the way down from the Saxon Heptarchy, and is THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 131 mentioned in the Domesday book. In the Norman survey, this parish was described as belong, .ng to one "Godric of Colchester" who was the great man jf the Saxon Burgh, but Eudo the Dapifer, became its gene'ous patron under William, the Con- queror. What waves ci sudden fury and terrific shocks of battle have broken on these old temples, in the twenty centuries agone ! Yet they remain— Romish once, Protestant now ; Low Church last year. High Church this ; established by law to-day, disestablished to-morrow ; unless mayhap another wave may send them back to Rome— but never to Methodism, for the middle wall of partition between the Church of England and Dissent is high— very high, and it has iron spikes,broken glass and no end of tar on the top. Plumb below me is St. Martin's Church. It was beheaded when Colchester was beseiged by the Roundheads. Cromwell seems to have smote the churches hip and thigh. Outside, parasitical vegetation softens its decay ; within, the hand of renovation has covered its gaping wounds, except where the shells have embedded themselves deep in the white marble of the font. Nearby is Colchester Castle, bearing, too, the scars of blood, conflict and years, yet it seems to me that these very scars, and the hoary rime of the almost timeless masonry, convey a greater sense of dignity than do the most stately civic edifices that crowd against the sky. Its great keep is built of flints and Roman bricks. Sometimes the bricks are laid endwise and sometimes, in herring-bone fashion. Until recently,it was a convenient quarry for the neighboring houses, but this is no longer permitted. The fireplace of the keep yawns with the roominess of a small chapel. Its smoke ascended through the side of the wall, by m<.ans of a spiral flue. You ascend the stone stair-case, worn hollow by number- less feet, to peer through deep embrasures, or cross-shaped '3» THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. arrow-ports, or to shudder at the little cavity in the wall, where a Quaker lad was confined for eleven months, and died from the torture oJ his position. Then the guide will sit on the sunny side of the tower that overlooks a plot of greensward, and will point out the identical spot where Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle suffered death at the hands of their victorious enemies. He is a Rryalist, this ola guide, and will tell you that the King's officers only surrendered when their food gave out, and that they were "wickedly slaughtered." Your innocent curiosity leads him to surmise that you lave not heard the story, although the inhabitants of the town, to this day, contend as hotly as to the justice and legality of the shooting, as did their forefathers in Ireton's times. Lucas, he will say, suffered ."-stl This Cavalier fell on his knees, and* when he had prayrlr. »>* minutes, opened his shirt and bade the soldiers fire. Lisle, after kissing the face of his dead friend, stood up and requested the musketeers to come closer, thinking that »hey were at too great a distance, to which one of them replied : "I'll warrant you Sir, we'll hit you." The other said, "Now traitors do your worst," and immediately they shot him dead. You only remark that Sir George Lisle, being an English officer, knew what notoriously bad shots th'! privates were, whereupon the guide is silent— painfully, politely silent, and you feel pro- perly rebuked for your levity and impertinence. It is well at this point to be good to him, for the museum and prison are yet to be seen. The former has an excellent collection of Roman domestic appliances — of lamps, rare and beautiful glass vessels, and pottery of Samian ware which differs from the ordinary pottery in being glazed and having a raised pattern. The treasures include tiles, cinerary urns, lachrymatories, grotesque clay figures, lead coffins, the tomb- stone of a Roman Centurion, and absolutely bushels of coins. THE IMPRESSIONS OK JANEY CANK K ABROAD. '.1.1 that the Romans must have treated their money like dirt A pair of stocks are displayeJ that were used as late as i8,- ' \s ml""'"'"'T, """'■"'* ""■'' "^'"Ck still" take on a „e* meaning. They were no mere empty terror unto evil doers. Follow the guide, and after lighting a lantern, he will lead you down a crazy staircase where a cold air strikes into vour very marrow, and sfets colder every second till your teeth chatter. Presently you Hnd yourself in the arched vault, that were built as^ foundation for the castle, but were used also for prisoner. What came ye out for to see :- There is nought but appalin;; darkness ; so dark that it is palpable. There is an eery drip- ping ot water. It is the cold sweat on the dead face of the stone Nothing could be more awful than to be incarcerated alone in this place. You might not even s.ir lest you touch some clam- my, gruesome thing not to be thought of. I, is the very epi- tome and quintessence of horror. Vou have a sharp nightmare at noonday, and feel dizzy and ill. There is another prison in the Castle. It was used in more modern days, and is less gloomy and soul-oppressing, but still top-full of direst cruelty." There is some writing on the door It directs that the male and fem.ile prisoners be separated that more water be provided, an J that the cells be whitewashed, and a window cut in each. It is signed by John Howard, for this IS one o the Augean Stables cleansed by the modern Hercules who, following in the footsteps of the Christ, bound up the broken-hearted, proclaimed liberty to the captives, and the opening of prisons to them that were bound. sh ?r"'"Lr ' •'" '" "' '"" '" "" "■^" "here the head and shoulders of the prisoners were crushed, and where, in a chaos of terror and agony, they were made to confess some imaginary cnme. I was the refinement of cruelty. What '.sorfowf^ sighing of the prisoners," what maledictions, unavailing shriek. 134 THE lUPRIIiSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. and death groans have been thrown back by these ponderoiu walls ! In another room, twenty-one prisoners, under the persecutions of Mary, answered the question, "What think ye of Christ?" They were all burnt at the stake, and the guard will bind you down with their shackles, and as you feel shivers of fright running down your body, you realize that you are not of the stuff to make a martyr. If you would further "Beguile the time and feed your know- ledge with viewing of the town," turn your back on the Castle '.nil wander on through intricate streets with their wealth of curious architecture till you come to St. Botolph's Priory the first home of the Order of the Canons cf St. Augustine, in Eng- land. Wearetoldthatif waser-cted by "one Ernulf." I,s most noticeable feature is a magnificent doorway, above which are semi-circular arches, so interlaced as to form a double row of pointed arches. An underground passage, nearly a mile in length, connected it with the Castle. Wishing to see if the passage were .still open ; an archaeologist drove a pig through the entrance. It was never seen again. Near my watch-tower too, is the workhou.se, known in England as "the Union." I went there one day with the Padre who had addressed the men and women, so was not a strangtr to them. One of the inmates, an old Canadian, who poses for the geiilillwmme of the place, took us through the establishment. He showed us his oil-paintings— a collection of billious mon- strosities, very simply and broadly treated, somewhat after the manner of impressionists. He seemed pleased when the Padre assured him that they were "really remarkable," and charmed when I gave it as my opinion, that his originality bor- dered almost on the bizarre. Poor old fellow ! a couple of years a'.>;o he sold his little farm near Hamilton, and came to England to acquire an estate whish someone else held, and which, of THE IMPRESSIONS OF J.VNEV CANUCK ABROAD. '.'5 course, was nghlfully hi,. The lawyer, took his money, and now .he Enghsh eqa.valen, ,o our -farm-pupil" scheme. Thi, old man has. proud and resentful spirit, and hi, failure Is eall andbuternesstohim. Some one has divided the poor in o aeviis. He belongs to the last. The children of the «orlchouse are of the gutter-snioe speces. Many of them, like the butterflies, do not knowhei b:rt"e'r"°^ "' ['' r '^ °^ "■* ""• '"^^ =«- nurtured Teith by f.ithernor mother, but by neutral bees. Presently these youne Ishmaehtes will slop over into Canada, and some progressivf person w,ll wrue letters in the papers telling us that thefe r " bodies .•'" black-lustre eyes and poverty-distorted bodies, are noxious vermin conveying the vile contagion of the old world to our young country. wi,h'^!'nK°°"" "7' '!."" ""'' "'^- "^"^^ '""""« "^^ »"PP'ied Whose" TT"""?'"''""''"""''^"^ that to people whose particular wan.ty" is oeer? The old men are iLhry. mose and doleful ; all are malcontents. They repine at bein°"feelverys,nall',.deedUa '^^ " '"'° "" ^"'""'-^ -n,endously be.bu«oned men verv^"" "' surrounded by - hard to withstand .I,e orders of ai^'u '"' °'^"°-- '' -valry„,ouaacl,e, and a sXeaT" *'''*•''" " ^""°"- person. Tl,e Padre had taCour hl^r"""''"^ ""'" P'"''" house but three of these importa„?offi ?^' '"'° "" '^"'"""- ""eaftertheother and, tried tLlt '"'" ""^ '^''"h V'?or of the traveller" had (Ld J Z\ °"'- "Th« sinewy to be moved, so pointing to the stkt' ,"" "°' '" " "•""- whereupon they left ™^e The last o"' "'" ^"" ^-'' baggage which did not belong to nl T\ l""" "P°" ^""-^ examined, and bore it o^TinTefi'ar-i^XH "'"""^ "'•" -o^:::::r2:jr£^f"!^-.-- — nd of h"e. Indeed, that old shrew has bee^"' " "" ""' "' "«'-« 'd over a, to be now wlrn^d . "° """* """ 'y»"n«- capricious designs. xTe cToToVdl'^'rr! ""° '"« ">-' ■"esembleacrazy-patchworkTuiU The" '"'' '"" '=°'°" and bind it in sheaves IM. . ^''* "'°"«n cut the grain cow plowing .„^Xr " " ""' """-"l to see a horse^nd ■-er::sTurirr:rt:/r:^v''' - -^^^ - "^ 'he " -kness. steamy, vaporous I" an^ "'""■'" ""' ^'■'""'«"- -■■.hy. Like somebody i,thTBfb, ' T'" "°' "" '""h, 'he bottom of the mountai, anf th ' ""^'' "^°"' '"'*" '" about us forever." At the stat ""' '^'"' her bars was 'he stafons. a. i„ Holland, there were THB IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. '45 «11 kinds of commodities for sale, and everybody dfank beer- Meads must be strongs in Germany. Our train passed down the Rhine through scenery of sur passing beauty. The river leaped and sparkled in dazzling discs under the lustre of a blazing sun. The fantastic rock forms with their castled tops, add romance and beauty to the scene. These hoary palaces are the dry-bones of the mediaeval strongholds of "the good old times". The heat «as scorchine and 1 was too ill to crane my neck out of the window, so allowed the beauties to pass by unnoticed, while sympathetic travellers drenched me with eau-de-cologne. Kdin !-This is the German spelling of Cologne, but beinir British, It would be injradig for me to use even a name made in Germany." I shall not atlei-pt to tell you of .he dizzing wonder of the stupendous Cathedral, its vast and delicate proportions, pillars, portals and chisclry. It has best been described a, "frozen music". To read aright its arches, buttresses and statutes is to understand all architecture. H ..^••^""'5" Church in Cologne is a vast charnel house dedicated to the saint, who with eleven thousand virgins was murdered by the Huns in the eleventh century. The fnter^or of the Church IS "decorated" with the skulls of these virgin. Some of the skulls are partly covered with velvet We dawdled about Cologne till we were tired of antiquity-wearied of the scents and scenes of the city, and then we journeyed o n to Frankfort-on-the-Main. where we rested a few days before going to our destination. .r ci-re There are two fine monuments in Frankfort, erected to Gutenburg and Goethe. The ci.y is opulent, and the streets clean and wide. It is a city of sun. The householders by a cunningarrangementof!ooking-gl.,ssesplaceJon their window *■■' *'''' '" «« «" "'at goes on in the street without look- ij( 146 THE IMPREtSIOKS O? JANBY CANUCK ABROAD. \1 ing out. In this way they are able to reconnoitre their callers. Hood, pertinently remarked, it was that the tidy housewife might watch before being at home to a caller with dirty boots. In a bjokstall here, I saw a print representing theGerman farmer, and those whom he supports. They stand on steps and the Emperor occupies the highest one. He is made to say, "I am supported by the taxes". The preacher exclaims on his step, "I live on the tithes." On the next platform the soldier remarks, "I pay for nothing." The lower parasite is the beggar, who says, "I live on what is donated me" and on the last step the Jew boasts, "I strip them all". We arrived at Homburg, the lovely Tanus town, late on Saturday evening. As we alighted from our coupe, an old woman, followed by 'two young ones, made a sudden sortie from a doorway and fairly embraced the Padre. Before I knew what had happened, D was whipped off and we were landed upstairs in a big room. This was Frau Backer and her maids, and here the Padre had lodged. One maid flew off for a warm bath for D , another bed was put up for me, (they all sleep in single beds in Germany,) tea was on the table and D and I had been patted and petted and called das gnte kind, and the prettay frau. Just fancy- an English land- lady being so demonstrative ! ^ HOMBI'RG, AUOUST. Homburg has nine thousand inhabitants. It was the resi- dence of the Landgraves of Hesse-Homburg (I am not just sure what a "Landg^rave" is,) and years ago it was the Monte THE IMPRISSION8 OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '47 Carlo Of Europe. The Marqm, DeCaux, Adeline Patti's first hu- band, was then the leading star of the place. The people talk about ...he good old gambling time.." although I should judge been abohshed. each guest i, obliged to pay a tax of eigh mark, to the municipality for the maintenance of the nark., sprmg, and roads. Already this season, exclusive of tourists' here have been twelve thousand visitors. We escaped this irv^'^h^i^r'''^"'"^^"'''-^' "'''---- -" Y' a. """^"'^ 7 T-^ '° '''"'« 'he worldliest society in Europe ■ To .ho ""r ". ''''■ ■""' "^"°" -"^"^ " '""' business o thoroughly .'enjoy bad health." In the mornings they throng the spnng. to drink the waters and to chatter in all known and unknown tongues. I take my morning draught a. the El.sabethbrunnenon the tesselated floor, of which are wrought the words : ra.trlh'?,- ^f'^' "•'■■■"»•. 'h"" P«»enl of the active depth, DiMnhme forever and ever, a blessing to mankind." Beautiful roads lead to the Springs, which are surrounded by parterrrs of flowers, orange trees and statues of dazzling white- ness. AU the while we are drinking, a string band pUyren- tr..r,c.ngly. I am beglnnins: to believe that the early rising.the •.valk before breakfast, a plain diet and life by schedule, arf no entirely unessential in the curative process. TheAWr inVAe/m bath-house is an imposing edifice and contams eighty-four roon.s. Hither come the victims of pleen obesity gout, rheumatism, and of anaemia both mental and physical. In ,t, j-ou sweat and frizde in baths of mud, nine electncity and vapor. I, your purse and constitution will' stand It, you may take inhalations galore, or the water evm nastic and massage cures. Outside the baths, a Swiss pre- pares and serves goats' milk whey. We drink deeplv, and try tJ believe it most beneficial. ' Jl k THE IMPREM.ONg OF JAKEV CANUCK ABROAD. ,48 The centre ol attraction, however, i, the Kurium, garden, where twice a day we li.t.n to the mo.t ravishing mufic vi\ 7."t^17 If"*"' "/"''"'" ''"""'" "»""• A' "'"ft, when the Rose Garden, and park, are lit up by hundreds 'of colored l-yhts, they look like a fairy-Und nocturnal .pec.acie. Some- "me., a ghttering girl dancer, with seductive grace of gesture will execute a. erie, of gyral antics and giddy paces, on an nnprovaed platform, but under the spell of soft Lsic, subtle oJours, low laughter and the "gloss of satin and glimmer of p.arl her performance does not seem vulgar, but rather those of a "trickey, damty Ariel." In Homburg. it is never safe for a woman to look direc.ly a a man, no matter how venerable he may appear. He is almost sure to give her a knowi.g glance, and perhaps follow t up by some mgrafatiory remark, thereby hoping to lead up o h.s ev and unmentionable purpose. Some of these men,! an, told are loose-moraled Englishmen who come abroad for ad- ventures. They are heart-scalds ,0 their families, many of w.iom make some claims to respectability. It is quiie evident that ,f hundred, of people are trying ,o climb the social rung. an equal number are as busily engaged in descending it. The ascent of man is kept balanced by the descent of man. "^^^ '"'"'y ^""i'"" contain, reading-rooms, ball-rooms. « thea re, a museum and a concert hall. The play-room where formerly the devotees of Tren,e et Quara.Ue gathered, where the roulette ball rolled and the croupier's monotononL voLe was heard, is now given up to games of more innocent nature There is a gigantic dining-hall too, but it is the smart thing to dine on the Ku.haus piazza, where however, you pay for 'atmosphere". One portion of it has been set aside for the Prince of Wales and his suite who come here every summer. If you would view the grand dames aright, you must promenade on this Piazza between nine and ten o'clock, taking care to have on you finest bibs and tuckers, for the procession is nought 148 THF IMPRESSIONS OF JAN«Y CANUCK ABROAD. '49 S I el« than dr„..para.ie. Up and down th.y go; Russian prmce.,e» with costumes fearfully and wonderfully made, ihe wives and daughters of Ambassadors, English Duchesses a^armmg^rf«<,//./«,beautiful Americans and wealthy Jewesses. Down the long walk too, lounge, Adelina Patti and her toy-husband. Her hair is dyed the new .hade. Known as Tuscan red. Her jewels would buy a small kingdom. Twice a week riumons are held. Last night the Duke of Cambridge gave an affair at the Kurhauy The majority of the lad.es were dressy, rather than well-dressed. The German officers with their tortured moustaches, gold-sheathed swords and studied politeness, were striking figures, indeed nowhere have I seen men o( better physique and bearing. r engaged a nurse-maid for D . We call herGretchen. She IS the most sullen savage in Germany. My attempt at making her understand what I require of her are as ludicrous as they are useless. In the best German I could summon up and with the assistance of my pantomimic powers. I told her one day that I was not well, and wanted her to bring over my dinner from a restaurant. I waited nearly an hour, when Gretchen app.-ared looking pirticuhrly happy. She had gone to the restaurant and had eaten my portion. I could suggest some reforms in the Melsterchaft system. The Padre has had the offer of the Church here, but I think will decline it. as the season only lasts five months and he would have to spend the remaining seven in idleness, which would be sheer torture to one of such an active temperament, besides he likes roving better. The Church seats about five hundred.and is well attended Like our American Indians, the people come and go through the service-some come only for the prayers, others for the sermon, and a third lot appear for the Communion There -^ a ■■Royal Pew." and whan the Padre prays for the Royal family u 'SO ■ ■ i!!!"""™'" " »»«» «-»cK ..,„„. about his country. He was sulT • '''!'"*'*'' f™«'y. "'king him •adies were the E'™p;:.re3"„V;r '"'" """ '"• Greece. The little chap he had LV . °"'" ^""'"^ "^ one day be kin^ of G.^e.e A fern ' T^ °" ""^ ''"'^- -"' Rutland who had sung ^' the Ih^." ^"" "" "«=''«« "^ -.oria, service was Lidtle^tlnd';" 'r':^- '"' " a telegram expre ,sin'g her regret at h. I ^"""■*" ""' She is always thoughtful and kT„H? / """'"* '° "* P™«"«- gossip . ,..^, rfsp.cX'r^;rra„T. ''''' °' "'^"^•''''" ^ London, Sept. We returned to London three days a™ Vf • • been completely cured by my st.v i„ T. ^ "^'^ ''" ''^^ sight-seeing. Before lea^ng th FathT,"''/"' ' '''" ''^»"' afternoon in the Emperor Willfam', ^"^"^^'"^- *« »P«nt an f^ "^""ams summer Dalar» of u ■. He was not here this season, and so we were „! "'*^- see it. * "^"^ permitted to THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEV CA(A;CK ABROAD. •5' i The Royal Park which encloses the Castle on three sides .s not laid out with the oppresive regularity of most palatial grounds Th. paths lead you through avenues of chestnut limj, poplar, miple.and cedars of Lebanon, over rustic bridees and past a miniature lake wherein floats a fleet of lily-pads with Solden varnished petals. A castle has stood on this site since Roman times, and about its protecting walls the houses have b«n built "Like chickens cojily nestling close beneath the mother s wings". The oldest part of the castle is the dunjon or white tower which was built in the year 1200. Under the care of a herculean German, we pass into the courtyard through a huge fiorie cochkre of red stone which was decorated by statues nnd lions cut in bas-r.lief. Crosslne the yard we entered the p-vate apartments of the Emperor and Empress. At the head of the ornate staircase leading to the Kings Corridor, is a statue of St. Elizabeth feeding a child Ihis Queen was an ancestress of the H- - .t,i .„ -j-i, ''f M'\^°7'f'"°^^"'' """"'•• ""'"''"'"S *!"> "'picture of Noah s Ark, and portraits of Maria Theresa, the Prince of Orange, a Turkish Princess who married Count Gleichen, and Frederick I. . » ■" Standing in the Emperor's bath-room, there is a vista of state rooms three hundred feet long. They are all arranged with an eye to comfort rather than magnificence. After his ^ath /Jifr A-Biier reclines to his -Rest Room" for an hour The writing room is a sunny den with an elaborate e.critoria'l outfit. On the desk is a piece of beautiful Wedgewood, a gold inkstand, and busts of BlUcher, Gustavu, Adolphus, and Napoleon There are book, too, containing drawing, of all the vessels of the Russian, English, German and French men- of-war, with their tonnage and armament. The draughts are the deft work of the King, and show not only energy and a great capacity for work, but also that William II. (to none) has given the matter of the navy his most sedulous attention n "52 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. Through an ante-room we entered the dining-room, where two huge porcelain vases, the gift of Nicholas I. of Russia smgled themselves out by their magnificence. The yellow and red Assembly Rooms are hung with sumptuous brocades, a century old. We lingered long examining the tables of marble marquetne, priceless cabinets, needlework of divers colors and exquisite paintings. The Empress has in her writing room a large vase made from a single amethyst, some beautiful artKles de luxe and an epergne of rare, antique, ruby glass In an apartment given as a weddinggift from the town of Homburg, the walls are a marvel of ingenious handicraft. The monograms and crests of the wedded pair are inlaid with thousands of pieces of wood of different color and texture. The elaborate smok.ng-cabinet of Rubens is in this room. The Emperor and Empress occupy a large stately bedroom looking out over the town. Their downy beds of ease are sent from Berlin when required. Off the bedroom are dressing-rooms fitted up with a wealth of delicate tiles and furnishings in birds-eye-maple. In spite of all the saws about the crown, and the uneasy head, the position of kingship is by no means to be despised. Two tennis tournaments were held at Homburg djring the season. One was open to all the officer, of the Army, and the first prize was donated by the Emperor. It consisted of a gold smoking set, with his initials in diamonds on each piece The other tournament was inter-national. The champion was a young woman, a hybrid person, who looked more male than female. She was loosc-jointcd, long-strided and prodigiouslv muscular. «■ a j Twice a week, in the afternoon, a ball was given for the cliiUren in the beautiful Golden Hall which almost translates one to "Bagdats' shrines of fretted gold", The figures of the children and grave masters of ceremony were reflected in scores of mirrors that paneled the rooms. The tiny maidens were be- -^^\ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '53 /^ curled, be-powdered and be-sashed. Their important old- fashioned airs made one moralize on the fact that the child is not aUays father of the man, but sometimes mother of the woman. The light infantry was composed of Italian, French English and Spanish children. There were little German Princesses too, who pirouetted with as much spirit as their subjects and visitors. Eminently proper little boy, with high collars and gloves, looked nervous till the music started, and in a moment they lost all their airs and daintiness in a good old- fashioned polka. The tiny tots just hopped around on the polished floor and looked very sweet and kissable. A rough- and-tumble little lassie from Ontario, almost invariably chose for her partner .dark-haired Irish boy named "Teddy" who reciprocated (he preference, and in every way upheld the national fame for gallantry. When tired of the gayety and glitter of the crowds we usad to fly as birds to the Tanus Mountains that surround the city like outriders in green. In these mountain forests thou- sands once lived, moved and had their being. Under our feet in gigantic mounds lay the remains of the original inhabitants who with their weapons and ornaments were buried milleniums ago. Most of these mounds have been opened for scientific research. It is good to rest oneself in these "black forests." It is the joy which a wandering child might feel when compassed by the loving arms of its mother. The dark languor of the wood and the soft depth of gloom have an air of mystery. You long to know their secrets. Perhaps it is the delirious glamour of your own mood, for some say that we see nature through temperament. It is not strange that the Northern imagination invested the pine woods with awe as the haunts of Odin and Thor; that the Teutons should make them the home of the ErI m '54 _:!i:::::;;^^op,..Hvc.»ucK.BKo.o. Konig and his ElBii Court Th. • formal looks that th,y can b! "f *""* "«='' '''""'ed Brahmar.s,awPani„the" Thrcrf' "'■'" *''?*• ^he "ops'- , ™- "" '-'"■'sHans call them "God's ^«»LiX"%:° It ro jt t'"^ ■^"^- ^-- « oU-and tells how the imp ud.„t I'o" a~'"° '"""'''' ^"« the tempers of the mind, and fi Ms th. T ""'* ~""P'^ "" ridiculous passions through the >vhol "" "'"' P""' ""d ed in the character of ^/f^J'" ^ „ '" Tf "' "'"' ""—" Sunday, you will always meet J^oH ^°" """' ^'^"'^ »" *l.atisdoin^i„th.woriryf;l™7'"^„^°" "'" <«"ow be told who wrote it. and who is mT'r ' '"" ''""P°°". in it- You will hear what Il« ^ '""^ "*"" «h« i -. he finest son^iehe'rr^^^^^ '"'' --"' «"«ich assembly, and what game.a™ mn T- '"'/'"""^ "' ""« '"« "adofthe pious ^.^'^^ "L °1;" r"""'" ''''- "« mother, she was forced to sitTn „/,'''* *" '""^" her ofeveryfa,hion,alwaysvis.w «''''''• '" ''« "^e folly loaded with fin,; ,„ Z hIs^^J""'''' '° ^° Pa'=hed and conversation, to hear profanty !""«:• '' " '■" ''"-^ P""'* places that rakes might admire the fi "''*' '" """" " P^^ic the beauty of her motion'- ""'""" °' "" '"ape and slumbrous, the tree-tops croon I^ M J" '^' '""^'^ '■' "'■" and "ch pines form themscWesro pSot'"' "" ''' '"«'' °' *"* There is a Swiss Chalet at n,. .a we would buy rusks, for the a, I'e'f "' '"« P'-'y -here one hungry. The rusks cricked L ^^ '"'"°"* """^ ™»kes children of the woods, we mad 1 °" '""• ""'' '"'' «"y sq .irrel, eating beach-nuts aS la '^7* "!™ '^-»'«- -d' -."..-e. .usedtod-^^£--:-b,. THE IMPRBSSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '55 i^ called "Dragon's Blood", for it was enchanted wine, and came from the Castle of the Drachenfets, where Siegfried slew the dragon, and bathed himself in its blood, that he might become invulnerable. Rested and rejuvenated, we pass from the wooJIands, out into the summer night and down the green fiathereJ slopes of the mountains, to the ever-brilliant shifting sights of the town. * • « ♦ The Canadian climate and country resemble Germany in many respects. When the next century will have combed out Canada's tangles, the resemblance will be even more apparent. It seemed to me too, that the people more nearly approach the Canadians in habits and manners,, than do the English. 1 did not find the German cookery as startling as I expect- ed. True, we went to restaurants where they catered for English guests, but sometimes we sought out a purely German eating-house, that we might sample the national eccentricities in comestibles. All German food has been divided into three classes— the salt, the sour, and the greasy. I have quite new ideas of the possibilities of veal. The German cook serves it in a dozen appetizing and savory ways, such as his soul loveth. I could not endure their oily salads and salt, rye bread of in- digestible solidity, but the divine rolls made amend for these short-comings. A distinctively German dish to which my palate was totally uneducated, consisted of baked apples, with lemon peel, sug.ir, and brown meat gravy. Many indefinable dishes are s. rved, which taste well and about which I was not too curious. The IVeinkarte figures largely on every table. Indeed, strange as it may seem, you are always charged extra for dinner if you do not order wine. If you order water, mineral water is understood. Vou must be more explicit and say you wish "natural water". Coffee, black and strong, with rolls. ■S6 THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. make up the German breakfast. Our bill for that meal always contained "extras" in the way of ham, eggs, and marmalade. At four the people have afternoon coffee — not tea. We found it almost impossible to purchase tea in any of the shops. They sold us something by that name, but when brewed it was evil both in looks and taste. The German waiter is a model of attention and obsequiousness. He knows what you are think- ing of, and presto ! it is there. By seven each morning all the streets have been swept, and chiefly by women, who use brooms of twigs. The females wear abbreviated skirts. Their heads are bare and without disfiguring halos of curl-papers. In person they are always clean and tidy. Pauperism- is unknown among them, and thieving is a lost art. This is probably owing to the ofScialism and inquisitorial system of espionage that exist. During our stay we did not see a single case of intoxication. There does not seem to be any room there for the W. C. T. U. The people complain greatly of the taxes, which are a crushing burden. They stigmatize the system as grand lar- ceny. It is for the maintenance of the army, that they are so heavily charged, yet they are proud of their soldiers, and well they may be, for the world has never seen a larger, finer phy- siqued, better drilled or equipped army than is now be found in Germany. Long ago Heine said of the soldiers, that they looked as if they had first been thrashed with ramrods, and then swallowed them. It has been hinted too that the heavens opened and rained soldiers for forty days in Germany. The people we talked with have a poor opinion of the English soldiers. They consider the British Army a convenient and soft berth for young men of high station, the majority of whom are mere beaux, while the privates are of the rawest material* jnhn Ball, himself, they style as the insatiable thief of the world. THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '57 The plegmatic German males, appear to exist largely on newspapers, Wagnerian music, beer and politics. The Teutons do not display the same gallantry to their wives and daughters as do Anglo-Saxons. The women are simply his domestic ap- panage. ■ He holds that "To be without color, is the highest virtue of the women and the diamond." The Germans ask of a woman, only blue eyes, a bust and economy. I was, however, surprised by what I saw of this people. Go- ing among them with an English bias, I expected to find an in- ferior race. On the contrary they are more ambitious, sober and thrifty than the English, and cleaner both in person and morals. Vogelweide was right when he sung "German men have virtues rare And German maids, are angels fair." We did not expect even, with our Colonial democracy, to meet socially, the grand people who went to make up the Padre's congregation, and so were surprised and pleased when "The Lords of the Council and all the nobility" called on us and invited us to their luncheons and merry tea-drinkings. Among the ladies who go to make up the smart set, there were some few beautiful women, who could swear upon occas- ion, who had cold hearts and hot lips, and who lovers were not of necessity their husbands. These dames were not by any means considered the skim milk of the cr^me de la crkme. But while birds of prey were plentiful, they were greatly outnumbered by real birds of Paradise, for refinement has reached its zenith in the persons of English ladies of birth. Their voices are soft and musical ; their manners dignified, yet gentle. In their company I found what I had frequently read of, but seldom met, "the indefinable charm." These ladies are truly religious too, but it is a part of their I eeding. They would no mors spaak of their fidelity to their Maker than of their faithfulness to their husbands. These things you may '58 TH, ,MP«gsS.ON« OF MNEV CANUCK *B«OAD. dc.perr„„;eb:J^,7;f'r".''>«y even shrinlc in.o ■ninently i„ European soci^Tv^ '*'""^"T ""o figure, pro- Hnglish women !^tco^^:\rZ .^''""'.''-'^"'^'y *"' opinion that she poses twZ.H ^^ *'^* "*' ">•'■■ that she is surface eve h"" ?"?"'*""• "^^^ "> ■u IS purely of the grenus nouveau riche Th— . • badforL At^nvrlT- . ''•^"''"^ "" '""""^ her ""Vices which b^o'h'"' "" Englishwomen consider ces. Which become her virtues to the Englishmen ■^"^^^^'^n^:^ltl^''"^T^ an adept and parry in hri,h:nt;aJ'%\^T;;;:,;° ''""' "■"•" ideas or manners »„H • i ^ ^ "^ '" ""imilate new for the mo "!1; *'""''" ''"P'y '"'"•»««'' i" whatever that ohn Bun rfiLdsTr"""' " " "°' '° "« -"'»-•'' really only the doings of Cupid ° '"P"^"^' "* To oblige an eccentric time-table, we rose with ,h- -d took the train to Biebrich. wherewe boarded Te steamer D.e Ka.enn Auguste Victoria for our trip on the Rhine esheim, above which on ,1-1^ , ""'"■ '""'"'' «"<"- ment.UichTrwld b ^^ °l ''■' Niederwald Monu- IS reached by a rack-and-plnion railway. This THE IMPUBSSIONS op JANSY CANUCK ABROAP. '19 national monument was erected to commemorate the confed- eration of the German States in the present empire. The celebrated Mouse Tower, where the cruel Archbishop of May- ence was said to have been eaten alive by mice, stands on a rock in the. river, opposite the Castle of Ehrenfels. I half expected to see a fair lady sittinf; on the Lorelei Rock combing her hair with i golden comb. She no longer intoxicates with her voice, but with her grapes, and we had plenty of this intoxicant on our own vessel. All about us, soft-spoken attendants filled the flowing bowls with vinious potations, for in spite of the beauties of the scenery, travellers on the Rhine get unromantically thirsty. In generous quantities, they quaifed rare and costly hocks that gurgled and laughed in the glasses, and excitable wines that recalled George Augustus Sala's wise advice, "Look not upon the champagne when it is dry." The River (orces its majestic way thorough volcanic up- heavals and barriers of rock, up whose giant staircases the vines have stormed the position. There is no waste or irreclaimable rock ; every inch is utilized and tilled. "Proputty, proputty's ivrything *ere." The Rhenish vine-dressers are far ahead of our Canadian farmers in diligence and thrift. The earth long chastened by the hands of man, has been brought to a state of the utmost perfection. In many of the vineyards there are shrines and watch-towers, for these people literally obey the command to "Watch and pray." Each lofty rock-head is crowned with a castle and has- tioned burgh, deep-wrinkled with the sun of a thousand sum- mers. Ehrenbretstein has a fine fortress, whose grim-eyed batteries command the Rhine and Moselle. It is called the Gibraltar of the Rhine We seemed to hear the echoes of the mighty conflicts that once convulsed Europe, when the monu- '"» panorama of beauty. ,t, Z\Z , ""' " "^^ " '"«'«'>- vine-mantled .lopes were un.n t l '"'"'''* ^n^ sun-bathed filled." y «"' 'he land of lontrin^s f^i. ai» Wolverhampton, Sept. We came to "The BlarU r- '"."ered. Rembrandtesq i^." o'!; '" "'^"^ ^"'' ^'""«' " scnbe the light. Leagues o l„h "^ ""^^ ">« """Id de- -rd.ike.acrifica. dn e /t ^ T""';"""'''''' =""«'- burnmg fiery fu„3,„_ lurid g.IeVanTd ''"'^''"' "'"■" flame cut the blackness and made th?.-''"*^ tougues of "bniliantAuroraboreahs. By d '!"""' '° ^'""We Hall m Birmingham, and with the „,h "'" "' "" ^own '""" -"• "■""■ •■- >- - w. •".r.z.c:^- ,?r THE IMPRIUIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. l6l It is the great iron depot of Europe and by its multitudin- ous variety of manufacture, has earned for itietf the title of the "toyihop o( the world." Coal mines honeycomb the ground, and the gigantic mounds of retuse demonstrate how the bowels of the eartii have been rent for their wealth. Once there was exhibited in London, from the cellar of this Blacic Country, a lump of coal that weighed six tons. Among "the burrowing toilers of the mine" were many women,— strong, swart-faced wenches, whose brawny shoulders and Amazonian proportions made them fitting types of the female Carytides. I cannot say that I wasted much pity on them, for if the back is fitted to the burden, so likewise, are these women's legs and arms. Thirty miles from Birmingham you may see, even through the troubled light, the great conical mount called the IVreiin meaning "chief-hill." I think the people worship it, for almost everyone points it out. If you are introduced to a gentleman and the conversation flags, he remarks, "Have you seen the Wrekin?" Just as in Canada the men when talking to each other fill up the awkward pause with the standard invitation! "Come and have a drink". This mountain is the AuldReeken of the Scotch toast; "To all the friends round the Wrekin", and if the hot stuff that has been quaffed to it were all emptied down the mountain's side, it would be entirely submerged. Elihu Burrit, says, that outside of Judea, no hill has ever had such social status. We are stopping at Wolverhampton, near Birmingham in a beautiful old Rectory that is swathed in roses. Great volup- tuous flowers with a subtle, sensuous perfume that somehow make one realize what Tennyson meant when he said, "The soul of the rose went into my blood". The garden is enclosed by a stone wall, and is a source of continual delight to me. It is full of surprise."!. Every day I find something new. There are low-growing cedars and ferns that grow rankly; hedges of i ■6a 'THI IMPKISSIONI OP JANIV CANUCK ABROAD I box, jasmine, laurel, lilac, lime, barberry, holly, laburnum, al- mond, japonica, privet, myrtle and the Star of Bathlehelm. v The apple trees are made to ^row on a trellis like grape vines. The plum-trees are small, but have larg;e fruit. Each plum is protected from insects and birds by muslin, thus pre- senting the appearance of bags of goodies on a Christmas tree. I do not think the Rector likes my laughing at them, and the gardener gives sniffs that are indicative of whole books. I wanted to explain how plentiful plums were in Canada, and so to-day I told the Rector how the Padre once took the Bishop of Huron to a prize farm near Chatham, and while waiting for the farmer to appear, the Bishop helped himself to some choice fruit that lay in great heaps on the ground. On the arrival of the host, the Bishop mide profuse apologies and said, "I fear Mr. B we are making too free with your plums," where- upon Mr. B assured him that he was quite welcome to thelti, stating that they vcre /or the pigt anyway. The Rev. William Hinde who happened to be present made a profound bow, and turning to the Bishop said; "Wherefore my Lord! being so aptly reassured, I hope you will make a fresh start." The Rector, like Zaccheus, is "a little man", and well over the meridian. He has a magnetic personality, an infec- tions laugh, and a vim and go that make you think of him as a Frenchman. He plays well and has a good tenor voice. He is a type of the old High Churchman, which alas, are becoming more rare every year. I mean the kind while perhaps impa- tient with all form of dissent, are yet unbendingly loyal and Protestant. Finally, he is intensely devout — and smokes cigarettes. Mrs. Rector is even shorter in statue than I am. It is a mistake to say that little people make up for their size in con- ceit. Vanity is essentially a vice of the tall, for since coming here I have felt pre-eminently superior, because someone has THl IMPRESSIONS OP JANEV CAMUCK ABROAD. ,63 J had to look up to m.. I am convinced it is only when the average woman is taller than the average man, that she will be able to reduce him to his well-deserved subjugation. Mrs. Rector is not tall, is howcv .. uim as ^ax-work It would be impossible for her to mak. a , .istake or . nmmit a wilfulsin. yet withal, she is interso)h,m.,n. an ide- mother and kmd to her very finger tips bio bc!c ig.,- fn fh i uecos tal League, and attends the K.^ .-k Cjnve.,t,o, , ngr pet aversion is the memory or the ; ue M,. IVa.'s.,, „, w'lom she considered an incarnation of ih= devil ili.v , she would like to know, "could such a proacunced Ritualist be otherwise?" 1 One day the Rector took me to the Parish School. On entering, the children rose and saluted us. They have not the clever, wide-awake look possessed by Canadian children of the same class. The Primary scholars were put through their lessons for our benefit, anj one pudgy little girl whose conson- ants were queerly mixed up, recited Wordsworth's "Lucy Grey." I was not impressed with the standard of the school It seemed greatly behind hand in appliances and methods, and the rooms were dark and small. The schools of the Establishment are known as the Nation- al. The teachers are not of necessity certificated. There is a strong feeling in England, that these schools should be abol- ished. The Board School, which is State-supported, is un- sectarian and is under the control of Central School Board in London. The National, correspond to the Canadian Separate Schools, and the Board, to our Public Schools. No person who pretends to belong to the classes, ever dreams of sending his children to either Board or National Srhools. They are only for the children of the masses. THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEy CANUCK ABROAD. I spend much time in the Parish Church. I don't know how old It IS, but let us say ten centuries. It was built by the flax- en-ha,red princess. Wulfruna, vho was a sister of Ethelred the Unready. In front of the Church stands the remains of a cross o' immemorial antiquity ; it is said to be of Runic origin. In the distance it looks like an Indian totem. "Time's effacing fing- er hasalmostobliteratedits quaint carving. The stone lion that stands near the pulpit, is unknown to the Natural Histories of to-day. Indeed, it is an extraordinary conception of a lion, produced entirely from the sculptor's imagination, and executed with a startling freedom from all the trammeling* of technic- ality, and with a vigor and animation quite beyond all recent art. Surely the architectuile of those early times was infinitely superior to the sculpture. in* London, Sept. 23rd. Thursday was "Benefit Day" at the Crystal Palace and thitherfromLudgate Hill, I wended my way on the London Chatham and Dover R. R. It was a noisy crowd that filled the third-class c^riages that morning. One tries hard to think why the English are described as taking their pleasures sadly On holidays they are surely the merriest and maddest of all Anglo-Saxon folk. They do their best to live up to Bill Nye's advice to the public to have a good time while alive for they will be a long time dead. THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. >6S . The area of the Palace Groun Js is extensive and includes cycling paths, cficket grounds, and water for boating, Here, landscape gardening is seen in perfection. The tennis-court is in such prime condition that the balls cannot fail to bound true. It is only after years of unrelaxing supervision that they could bring ;t to such a state of excellence. I watched for half an hour a hotly contested game of polo. The round-bodied, sure-footed ponies seemed to enter into the sport with as keen a zest as their riders. Then I went "sky- larking" in a captive balloon, and although I did not hitch my waggon to the stars, almost realized the meaning of Victor Hugo's words, "1 am the tadpole of an archangel". It was the very next thing to flying. We were "exiled fr»m earth and yet not winged for heaven. " The balloon which had a capacity of 64,000 feet shot up, up, up, till we reached an altitude of 1,000 feet. The sudden lurches of the basket as the wind blew us wherever it listed, were rather alarming, and one felt that "Heaven's high road" was not as substantially paved as it might be. We were all nervous and tried to appear uncon- cerned by saying s nart things, but only succeeded in being silly. I remarked that we were all "stuck up"; someone else sang "up in a balloon boys", and a third person confessed that he never expected to get so near heaven again. It was an ex- ploit rather than a delight. I shall not write about the beauties of the Crystal Palace because ; did not see them. It is a huge, ugly pile; great only by size. The building was pathetically expensive, and its chief value is in demonstrating how easy it is to spend $7,000,000. It would take one a long time to see properly the Byzantine, Renaissance, and Industrial Courts; the picture galleries' museum, theatre, and concert hall.s that are covered by the enormous glass roof. Concerts were in full fling, but I pre- ferred to w rather than to hear, and so wandered oflF to the J 66 D ~~_ ABROAD. "OfTipeiaij Co ' '^hepr.ncpa, '»" °[ the Pi„a,^j ' «■ C. 300, and "^"^ad" ofope„fi '?' ""'^ "-^ "ali of ' ^™ "•• Coua of visitors. '^^'" to prevent his escal "^ "" """d bv were a flight of ml ^""' spectacle s„ ""^f" into ""'■ffned to sho/the of' "''"'""'• ^^"^'^ races^ «;^=''^'".-.h, '"f«rieit,, Bot.rofr'""^''"''-'C'thr'' ^"-^ a' 'hey burned irradu! 1 "'"* ^^--e disnlaw.H ''"''' ''^ht P--, the flower: .tL'r"" '"= P""' 'of'"'"' *""=" symbolical of their ch! ' '^'^^ P°"rait bei„ "" ""'"d ""'y for Mr. KruS KitT"""' *-« .>on JX '"°'''"' "'« °f oak and bay lea.! '^ ''''"'=' and "Bobs" 1?^ ""* '" "o Thesh,.n,rocrs reor?' "^"''^'"^ ""agean jT" "°'^^'' °"' ^epresen„„g "promise" aT,""'''"'°^ "-ent. ' "' '"^y faded away THB IMPRESSIONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. 167 l.ft ^.r Thomas Lipton. Sir Henry Irving, Madame Sarah Bernhardt, and Kiplinff were well received, but over the port- raits of Zola and Dreyfus, with the motto -Partial Reparation at last," the crowd cheered itself hoarse. Entering the Palace, I was caught in a mad vortex of surging humanity and carried along for some yards without once touching the ground. The omnibuses do not outstay thehourofCinderella, andsolhad to walk to my lodgings from The Angel ^X Islington. The day had been "perfect mdeed", but I may also add, "perfectly wearisome". «|j» London, Oct. An interesting place to attend service on Sunday morning IS the Foundlmg Hospital. It was established one hundred and fifty years ago, by Thomas Coram, who lived for some time ■n Nova Scotia, and is for the maintenance of sin-born children or for the legitimate children of soldiers and sailors, who were killed while in English service. It is now only a "Foundline" hospital in name, for formerly any child xvas admitted without question or stipulation, except that each child was to bear some mark whereby it might, if necessary be afterwards claim- ed. Some of these badges of identification may still be seen They are such as coins, purses, crosses, and lottery tickets One infant was left with these lines: "Not either parent wants a parent's mind But fnends and fortune are not always kind, The helpless infants by its tender cries Blesseth the hand from which its meets supplies " We., and ..p„3.„. CHns. b.e!^^. -S ot/ "'■•" " "^ • nese little mor'sels r^f 1. -ashapp,„ cH^::? irrxo ""'?"" ^-- "" barrack,. " ""' who are bundled up in prea^«^SS"^:rr:'r r '^--o — »ith the Bishop of that Diocese M° r"' '°' ^'•"» ^eone -nee his visit to Canada, ^hich js T. u" '" a^*" greatly troublous ti„es through wS' relf""' '-S:e>" The head and front of hi.i off-„^- holds regarding ^'-nal pu i,'"! rr"'"'" ^'-'"^ thorn in the flesh of Kesw^c^ ^ he/w"^ ^T'^"'- "' '" « I an, not wise enough to dec.de whethl ' "°"* °^ him. errors should be deprecated as Jo™, ; f ""' "^ intellectual words Rogers used regarding Arnold '' '"' ' '"' '^at the - with hin, a, it was with o^eprwhen'f '" "^^ *''"'"' = "'' h.m wandering in the field. If he had ?o ? u"""" """" ^"""d cause he was seeking his brethren. ' " "''^' ''' -" be- * * * * In one visit you can only "do" tu a Natural History Museums of South Ken ' ^"'""- '"" -pending days there, you feel tharLy^Ce" 2y bee^l: t 'fi^B^lSlfSlfSmSifSmJHS THE IMPRISSIONS OP JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. 169 1 a slap-dash style. From the various cases, "Man imprisoned, man crystallized, man vegetative speaks to man impersonated". You may read the rock pages of nature's diaries, roam through corallines and fishes that heard the voice of God say, "Let the waters bring forth abundantly living creatures after their kind," and among multitudinous fossils so arranged as to show our descent from what Tyndall calls a "primordial atomic globule." You may halt to look at the moa, Raphael's cartoons, priceless embroideries, ingenious handicraft in wrought brasses furniture that was made time out of mind; carved ivories as frail in their exquisite tracery as delicate lace; or at Arkwrighfs first hydraulic press. Chopin says while contemplating certain pictures he heard music. Here, you may find this to be quite possible, as you linger long and lovingly over Turner's sunset pageants. Each IS a wide vista of color dashed all over with glowing crimson flame. You look and look at his complex greys and ambers and wonder how human hands so could soften, intermix , and degrade the primary colors. If you care to, you may fag out your body and brain in the consideration of Palaentology. Geology, and Mineralogy and only come to the old and painful conclusion, "We are but of yesterday and know nothing." W^^fSyr ^sn}Kj:^i.-mtaessBmmjBmMJ^ I70 THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. London, Oct. 20th. People can be found who will dispute that the sun is the centre of the planetary system, or the correctness of Euclid's axioms but none save a Frenchman will contend the right of London to be called the Metropolis of the world. It covers half a mil- lion of acres and has a population of six million people. There is something terrifying^ in its irresistless growth. It is a poly- pus, a spreading sore ; it seems to have no boundaries. Take a train and travel on and still further on. Surely you have reached it purlieus, for here are green fields. No ! you still find more bouses, more green fields, and again pavements, and surburban villas. London is a show city. Oliver Wendell Holmes says, "The great sight of London— is London." It is a dynamo among cities. It is a summary of the earth. To persuade its mind or passions is to lead the world. It would take a life time to know it. What then can a poor Canadian hope to learn in a little year" Nothing but to love it. All its classes are interesting, even the costers, those queer people who help fill London's huge gaping mjuth. The male coster is quick-tongued and has a queer linjo, besides being master o( an amazingly rich vocabulary of oaths, which he strings out on all possible occasions. (lis unmentionable adjective is not sanguinary but its Anglo-Saxon synonym, For some unknown reason, when he gives his donkey a sharp ad- monisher, he calls it a "moke," Poor old moke ! Its hide is so worn in holes that it can scarcely keep the bones from failing out. Its underfed body is only kept together by some strange law of attraction, I hope I may not be considered wanting in politeness in passing rapidly from the donkey of the coster to the woman THE IMPRESSIONS OP JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. '7' thereof. She has a saucy tongue too.and "slangs" her "bloke." She has a sinewy appearance, and is usually so dirty that one cannot tell whether she is good-looking or the reverse. Her scraggly hair is always surmounted by a hu?e structure with nodding plumes. She is blowsy and lacking in smartness, has an impudent laugh and a hard manner. The costers of both sexes are industrious They despise the idle, greasy brother- hood who swarm the seats on the park, or sleep on the floors of this, their green salon, often presenting a spectacle that might be aopropriately called "After the Battle." The women who lie drunk on the grass with no underlinen and exposed bodies are rarely of the coster class Objectionable as the costers are in many ways, one cannot think of London without them. They are as much a part of it as the paving-stones. Equally as interesting a class ari the omnibus drivers. If you sit in the front seat, perhaps your Jehu will tell you that he has just returned from India, where he served under Sir Havc- lock Allen and was with him when he died. H« will tell you not to believe what these newspapers say, for Sir Havelock died by his own hand, and not by an enemy's. He will proudly point to the monument built to commemorate the fire of 1666, and tell you that it is caged in at the top in consequence of the mania for commiting suicide from it. Perhaps he will even advise you to ascend it, whereupon you tell him how Dickens represents the man in the monument as laughing when two visitors pay their sixpences to go up, and saying, "They don't know how many steps it is. It is worth twice the monsy to stop below." As you rattle down the Thames embantment, you question him about Cleopatra's Needle, the huge obelisk around whose base, prostrate nations seem to crouch. He unfolds how it was brought to England, and how someone told him that it came from the Temple of the Sun, and that Moses played around it, and Joseph was imprisoned under its shadow, and that it saw Abraham, the Hebrew, when he came down to Egypt. This 17* THl IMPRESSIONS OP JAHEV CANUCK ABROAD. with a superior air, he afsures you that he is not gullible enough to Llieve that it is quite so old as all that, for it is not even chipped. On your ride with your voluble instructor through narrow lanes, the inside -ams of the city, bearing the quaint nomen- clature of olden ,mes ; past LHiputian shops not much larger than Canadian aj -. bins and where «,o.oo would oe a fair estimate of the v,i,r-ot the stock in trade, till finally you de- scend and peer i ,;ough the gates of Christ Hospital.commonly known as "The UlueCoat School," an institution which has handled thirty generations of Boy. Vou whip out 5«efl'e*e/and he says it is "a school for twelve hundred boys and one hundred girls, founded by Edward VI., with a yearly income from land and funded property about ^60.000." The quadrangle where the boys are playing is the burial ground of the Grey Friars. It is said that in order to cheat St. Peter into the belief of the sanctity of the dead, many laymen were buried in the habit of the brotherhood. Charles Lamb, Leigh Hunt,and Coleridge played in this quadrangle,and bled each others noses in the same chevy-chase style as the young barbarians of to-day. The boys have yellow stockings Duckledshoes, flapping skirts, and wear a clergyma.'s band around their necks. They are always bareheaded. The Fre..ch say the English thus expose their boys in this atrocious climate because the population is inconveniently large. A few minutes walk from this interesting school, down Cheapside and along past Ludgate Hill, brings you into Fleet Street, so called, because it is the old bed ol the River Fleet It is now occupied by "eating houses" and "paper stainers in monochrome" -otherwise editors. It is with quite the nature of a shock that y.ivi recognize the figure of Mr. Punch in the orlg-in.T'. TfTE IMPRISSIONS OP JANIY CANUCK ABROAD. ■73 i i This street leads into the Strand, where you find it pleasant to drop into Rimmels' and buy oflhe scents at headquarters. And how much there is to purchase in London. You feel it is not only an agreeable diversion, but a nt^cessity that you should buy every second thing you see in the shops. You degenerate into what Max Nordau calls the "onia mania," or "buying craze." For prudential considers^tions it is well to put your money in a bank and order them not to give it to you. The bells of St. Clements' are really saying "Oranges and lemons," u > you leave the busy Strand and pass into the sepulchral chill of the Church. A brass plate on pew i8 in- forms the public that Dr. Johnson usually sat there. Boswell says of this grim old worthy, "He carried me to St. Clement Danes, where he had his seat, and his behaviour was, as I im- agined to myself solemnly devout. I shall never forget the tremulous earnestness with which he pronounced the awful petition in the Litany "In the hour of death and at the day of Judgment, good Lord deliver us." At Charing Cross where the Strand empties into Trafalgar Square, the traffic is congested into a deep-throated and vociferous confusion. Om- nibuses, bicycles, broughams, carts, sandwich men, autocars, drags, drays, and things that are nondescript, become locked in embraces that could hardly be called affectionate. The hansom driver, "London's gondolier," calls in mighty dudgcun to the carter who has grazed his wheel, to go home and drive ducks to water, which advise is greeted with an original fertility of invectives more personal than compli- mentary, but still a representative of "the force" holds them back: As Joshua bade the sun to stand still, so one man standing in the surge of diverse and mighty currents of traffic, performs apparently, as great a miracle by merely holding up his hand. He stretches it out again as Moses did his rod over the Red Sea, and a passage is open into which the jum- bled mob pour like the Israelites rushing their last breach. •74 _:;|^_;^«^0« OP M„v C.NUCK *B«OAD. and a.o. Una J^^X" ^riXt^^^^^^ "'°'" "' maiesties strike different o«r. .„ • "'"'"'"• These conchant ordinary observer therstanTorthr ^^"•"' *''^'- ^° '"e masterhoodof E„Kla*,d Th^ """"^''^rabl. might and man of .hon. J^Xlp.^Z Z""'' "''"^'"^ '" * «"- -opp"::::;4;;;^rj„-*^/;;'H A^ diamond fie,ds.. "on,. "Great Heavet" he sad"w\''r"^^ '"'" 'ion, . Think what they' ma, fie co^' ^VthV '•"" """' enough in London for neonl. t.T *™ " "oney •hismustbeabettrplace L„^7'*''."'°f '''"'" '"'« "'a^ tune. At anyrate theyVe „ot Il^thr '" ""? '° "'^'" » '- »tayhereand self to come a^ain f„ -^ i3* i Lo«Do.v, November '" the National r i, an 'nterior, N :. '^ "' ^ *■"" scape a ,.; '^'^ "'^'^ '" rapid ""' "" the scene' ^'; "'^' ^-^ ^^orks oT''""' ^^-bina- -;-«..;;:: - --.ona, in chai.e::„:,^;^p;-^. ■"^■"ofanLl '"'^''"P-"'"^- Thefi" "''"-<^'«' could "roken.haLa.dN^^""^"'"""' a !,„! 7 ""'' '"""""■ "••^ beaut,., f,,. , - '-«-da„e idea, Jc '.'rZ t '"''" fis-ures in (he „,v, ^''" ""° silence a„H ► ^'"S in '-ated tha^o^nrctr^-' three hund^t^r '"■°°""=^ THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. '77 the loves, jealousies, and griefs that humanity is capable of and throwing into relief the one ideal man, who while He 'was touched with ail the feeling of our infirmities, was yet without sm. If this work tells the secret of the artist's soul, if it be the result of his insight into the nature of the Christ, then this French artist was one of the world's greatest seers. Surely it IS true, "when the Gods come among men they are not known." We lingered lovingly over The Vale of Tears. It was Gustavo DoriS's swang-song for he died while the paint was vet wet on the canvas. ' The Padre has returned to London. He has been at Colchescer for a fortnight .peaking to the soldiers. The reel ments there quartered, are the Warwicks,Gordon Highlanders and Irish Fusiliers. He reports that when orders came for the men to be ready for immediate transportation to South Africa the hospital was full of sick privates. In three hours there was not a solitary man in bed. The devilish itch to fight, which lies close under the skin of all Anglo-Saxons, had come out in a red heat, and every mother's son of them was ready to pav "the tax of blood" to his country, and if need be, lay his bodv down to fertilize the soil of an African veldt. John Bull deserves his name, for he is decidedly bellicose He was keen for battle and was far from pleased when the Hon. Cecil Rhodes said Kruger would "climb down " The war has not however been taken up with universal enthusiasm. I r^ . u ! "^"elanders" are making themselves heard. Still the red horse has begun his dread march,and this time it is a fight to the finish. "ems On Saturday we went to the Waterloo station to witness the departure of the soldiers. Some of the officers left in private cars. Their mothers, wives, and sweethearts said good-bye to them with dry eyes, but pale, drawn faces These women are '78 ^IMPRESSIONS OP MNEV CANUCK ABROAD. o'clock .ve heard the th™ hint o'f he d "'^'" "*=''■ ^' °- »trai„., of thebandoftheofj e/Gr/'''r "'"'"^ Kharkl-clad troops can,e into view Th"?'' '°°" '"^ dous.and with one voice the n-nnU , "''^"'"^ was tremen- by sinking "Auld Lang s,„'e ',"""'" """^ ^'''^^ ^atch crowdspressedonthesoidil sot at'tC "' "' P"""' '"^ serve anything ,ike good formation and ""u' """'"'' '° P^^' to "march at ease." The deUchmeT .""' ''""'°'' ^"°*"' clust-coIorthatwo^edthettX:. ~ ^ """ °' people. ^ '"rough the dense mass of The Duke's son stood uo in hi= «n„ cook's son came with his arm' link ^'r'wif:"'. t^"' '' '"^ hundred Earls bared his head to wave the 1. , "" °' ' Vouths and women insisted on carrvL^ ., ,T"^' "'°"- rifles, and impedimenta The .nth' "a "" ''"■''^^'■ one heard such shouts as these .'• "'' """""""^^ «"" the boys for old Kruger;" ■.•Shoot '" ""?''" "^''^'"'» country,. ..p,„ his\;hiske's •• rK?'^'', ^ '"^^ °''' forget M.juba ;'• -G,i bless you f,7^'- »' ' "D-'t you safe home to your mothers." Th Pad.. ,1 '"'' """^ hat into the air and didn't catch it '/'"''^^ ""■«* h,s silk ous. ^^^ '■""It was Jisastr. There were many tear-stained faces anJ h. > .u too, for these tough-fibred sons of M ' Z^tV^ 't' '"''""' the slaughter, for it will be a mere handf , u '"""P '° again. ™ ^''"''^"^ »'ho come home THE IMPRKSSIONS OF JAVEV CAXUCK ABROAD. "Tramp, traiiiii, tramp, earth sr.i.msas (hey Ire.nd, The cl,iy-c,>vered bones ^'oinjf down to the dead. Every stamp, every step, every footfall is bolder, Tis a skeleton tramp with a skull on his shoulder. But O' how he strides with l,is hijfh-lossing head I This elay-covered bones going- down to the dead." The cars pulled out to the strains of "Go J bless vou Tommy Atkins, Here's your country's love to you." Ah well ! all the rest will oe prose and sharply punctuated. For a stranger i„ the land to express dogmatic opinions regarding the social life and traits of the inhabitants always smacks of presumption. It is only upon the secure basis of several years residence that one can hope to make a fair judg- ment. At best you can only present the characteristics of the comparatively few people you have met, and as they appeared to you under certain circumstances. It has been pointed out that in England a woman is either decidedly a lady or decidedly not a lady. Perhaps this IS the only way in which as a sex they are particularly emphasized. As compared with the Americans, the English women of position are lacking in individuality: they are solid but not brilliant : wanting in tone but not insipid: they are an amalgamation. Animated,ffraceful, polished, dignified and domestic .nre all terms that could be properly applied to them, but apart from their high culture they have no organic individuality unless perhaps it is their religionism. An English lady has a high sense of her moral obligations. She considers it meet, right and her bounden duty to be entirely religious. Often she makes her life a con tmtious round ol labor in the performance of sacred or philanthropic undertakings. I So _:;^^_;-«-S.O.VSOKM..HVC.«UCK.B.O.O. small army of ,ervan,s aid f / T"' " "^''' ="'« keeps living too hard, but ,.ed.:« ,^0:' T "°' "^"^ '"^ "-^ ' system. ^" housekeeping ,0 a very simp When she bids you to "a „„ f for a stranger to go It m ^^^' ^"PP^'-". -t is always wei passed a sfarching'^scr ,„?„":„ '^^^ ^°" "-« successfu,: 'deportment. It is just po ", bl 2 / ''°^'"''" ^"'^ f^enera function, well-mannered and jre'v?" ?' '"" '" ' '''^"'- homes, even when you are the g st ofT '^°"''' '°' '" ^-^ "^-''--''-n'-ductions, ofa'p::';,;;''"'':^- ''' ^ -t ".nd.ng as a marriage. Some J, t T '" ^'™°'' «« insularism, but I have alwavs h r . ' ""'' '° '"Solent On being introduced, th roCirm " T'"' '""" ^"^""^ ease, even to the verge of J,'* embarassed and ill at conversation, are greatly reCv';-''',''"'' ^^"^ ^°" i' in their ■ fecling-s f fail in THE IMPRESSIONS OF JANEY CANUCK ABROAD. l8l Her husband's chief characteristic is pride. An English man is proud of his national pre-eminence, his church, his university, his sovereign, his home, and even of himself— with "Pride in his port, defiance in his eye," he will give you to understand that he does not like foreigners, and above all the inhabitants of America. He does not think much of the pros- pects or wealth of a nation that is expressed in a decimal system instead of in pounds. He almost invariable underrates the strength and intelligence of other peoples. Without braggo- docio, and yet in a manner that is vaguely irritating, he suggests to your mind the words of the vivacious Mrs. Squeers, "I pities your ignorance and despises you". And why not? It is well known that the Almighty is English, or at least possesses only English traits. If you are a Canadian, he is mildly surprised at the fairness of your skin. He had an idea that you were half French and half Indian. It must be that the hot-air furnaces in the colonies bleach your complexion. He is distinctly charmed when he finds you do not eat with a knife. As he does not of necessity read the daily papers, he sneers at your passion for news and dubs you, "the inquisitive Canadian." The male Briton claims that when the fogs allow it, he is capable of seeing the ludicrous side of a thing. He has an ex- travagant passion for walking. Rude foreigners say that he walks straight ahead like a mad dog. To summarise him brutally, he is a queer conglommerate of obstinacy, pride, justice, refinement, acquisitiveness, hard-headedness, bravery and sensuality. t^ Westward Ho! ^°v- 7rH. 'hat all the books Cefn p'" ^""^'^e ,' ^"' "^ "-e We watched them •" ""g»age. •'S" ^ang, skimpii,, clad ■/°'"'"B aboard, a .. question of .'whert^;."*"-'"-''"!, and '"'^' """ey. '«'ured, unwashen sir. '"^ ^"'op^^nL' °"1*;">' P'''^' sweeping, of the Oih «^ ''"^ '^"°«'s are n! I ^''"^ bard- °' Canadl ever, on'.' .Ttr '"" ^^' "o" ^ T ''* "'""•- :"'"«-th unbounded S:"!""""-"^ out Jrandl "" "■"" «cape from the foul atn,." '^"'* fortunat^T^ '"'° ">« tenements ; or from 'P''"« °f fetid "7 '°°' « "leir «ati„,;;,lr;--' serfdom, reptetr ^^ '""'■"^ They are what Frout "^ "'r";"^' °^ '«•» t an'd "'' '' ^h-ldren, as thick as blackb . '' ''^ •'ect." p!^,.?"""^- I hori izon. Now ""g THE IMPRESSIONS O F JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. the boat shook herself like a huge, writhing monster and gain, the sensation was that of rapidly desfenTn J f ^" height in an elevator. We began to Lall the w T T"' prophet. -They go down alive^n.^Hade '"'Vr: t Id^ retire to our airless dungeons and settledownintoth! .f ■ ? -rpor. the -id lethargic silence, that isXna'rr Si insurgent sie^orrh: re" ^'>;L7r-'^ '"h '--' °' wrathll„ „,!,■. ^ L- morning the sea was wrathily wh.te and hi.smg wreaths of foam, mounted to ,1 upper decks. A few ladies emerged from the r .ttt toilets, displaying more haste than taste Z^'fT^T the ship was walloped about, and on the seventh . u '^"^^ a hurricane blewup. We w'ere in ".he rrrg'forel' if '^ n.ght an the ship trembled like a frightened ^brrdpTwr:; and every bone was sore with unwonted a'crobicTeau ""^t having shot twice out of my berth. I settled down to an o d' .;.-«. the Pillows around me :.C;;^,:'r;X^:- As the vessel leaped and swung there was a cr-.i,- companiment of broken plates and bottlesTnd! f "■ buHy of cutlery. Thud ^fter thud c.r the hu^e TohI":!- mad .mpetuosity on the deck, an occasional wave fi„H way down the halls and into our stateroom? Ve";? J'" grandly awful, this dread shrieking and the wi d I " moan of the storm, and as one listfned thrL Jh Ltnjltt i i' m 184 THE .MPRESS.ONS OF JANEV CANUCK ABROAD. stopped de.d. The screw hTdh' V "'""■ ''^^ "'* ^hip ly that the pac?„; hi ?o ouran^d i:',!:" — ^^O-' we we.e making only three k„o „ hou Twas"' t""'"- "" -.htened. •'-. had^ Csipl^Jrstof:' ^^^I^ that moment my .nnate germ of original sin assert.dTtself al lous balancing hurried on " ''^ '''"' °^ ™"*"- Thi, stoppage was the climax of our troubles. We were at he mercy of the opposing waves which, in their wHd kicked the ship like a football over the bill • °'^^' water or hurled her down in thr^L'-mou Td" gTarT th"' sea. Madame de Stael was ripht wh^n .1. -^ "* one of the sad Pleasures Of life:^^rer;rol'rS '^^^ tremor of the screw and were again under control P 1 ,^ we weathered the storm, and ofce more bega t reareTha^ life was not entirely devoid of sweets. *' In his official capacity, the Padre took me to see th. ficiently to enter and found it what th» „ .• . " . K^ *"'" -'■-"'«f--- would term a^r'ntior nu'^^" S is ^o :rr;er:rn^°"' -"^-'^ --=-- -^ ^° -y'-rc' '::: ,1 THE IMPRBSSIONS OF JANBV CANUCK ABROAD. ■85 We could not talk to many, for it waj a strife cf tongues, except for the querulous cries of the children whicu .e in the one language the world over. Here lay a darlc-eye ' voman of magnificent physique, her full breasts heedlessly exposed. Further on were decrepit old crones from Asia Minor. Their deeply-lined and repulsively ugly faces, and their skinny claws caused you to associate them with harpies. Poor souls ! with only a limited dole of water, their dirt i:. not so much their fault as their misfortune. There were a number o( young English girls too, whose fresh co iplexions lookid like nothing so much as a mixture of coffee and milk. Some of them were very ill, and as the Padre poured the oil of wine and sympathy mto their bruised hearts, I fed them with oranges and apples for I have a clear, well-defined idea, that women are not all soul; that they have a way of hungering after b.ead, even be- fore they hunger after righteousness. All the emigrants are counted and vaccinated before landed. The interpreter told us that most of them had money, but it is hardly credible that these offscourings of the old world own much else than their poor rags which are the prima facie evidence of their poverty. We were glad to escape the pungent stenches and once more breathe freely on deck. I did not visit the men's quarters. The sexes are separated by the whole length of the boat, but in the day time mingle freely on deck. Towards evening they settled down into couples and make love with u vrazen boldness and brutal indecorum that almost braves the onlookers, for what care these wantons, young or old, with their passions on fire for the prejudices of the officers or saloon passengers. George Herbert was not wrong when he said that there were two things not to he hidden— love and cough. !■ f for an ^„„^ ''•■ "" ""sation he had created ^ *" "• 'he distance- its fh^ ^ "" 8'°'"' '" see NeJf ?, "- Canada and ^e CeS'""^ ^P-^' .re^.f";!^"' ne"',';™/ '!•;■'--- entry ".tV.?""^'"'"^ °^ "enr, .s/«'^•^■°•"--an.IJ-^c^r^- ^e spent the lair ■ j r St. Uwrence. The :.:::, ^r:^, "f ' «"-- Shi, on the r-bed ati^ „._ » laions weri> h- . nver-bed and < country," God' ' 'ay at anchor, s fairest g-ift to man-' talons once more an-The La.id of dropped on the « first, best 'th. the Maple m 111 LONDON, ONT. . ■-*Co..P„„.„ 1901.