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ADYENTURESm CANADA-
OR,
LIFE LV THE WOODS.
E.
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lilnstrnfcir.
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PniLADKLPHi^
^ORTEJi &
C O A T E S.
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271608
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAU
Boy-dreams about travelling. — Our family determines to go to
Canada. — The first day on board. — Cure for sea-sickness. —
Our passenjjcrs. — Henry's adventure. — We encounter a
Btonn. — Height of the waves. — The bottom of the ocean.
— A fossil sliip. — The (ishing-grounds. — See whales and
icebergs. — I'orpoises. — Sea-birds. — Lights in the sea. —
The great Gulf of St. Lawrence. — Thick ice-fogs. — See land
at last. — Sailing up the river. — Land at Quebec
CHAPTER II.
ijuebec. — Wolfe. — Montcalm's skull. — Toronto. — We set off
for the bush. — Mud-roads. — A rough ride. — Our Log-
house. — IIow it was built. — Our barn. — We get oxen and
cows. — Elephant and Buckeye. — Unpacking our stores. —
What some of our neighbors brought when they came. — Hot
days. — Bush costumes. — Sun-strokes. — My sisters have to
turn salamanders. — Our part of the house-work .
18
CHAPTER III.
Clearing the land. — David's bragging, and the end of it. —
Burning the log-heaps. — Our logging bee. — What preju-
dice can do. — Our fences and crops nearly burned. — The
woods on fire. — Building a snake fence. — "Shingle" pigs
give us sore trouble. — " Breachy " horses and cattle .
(iii)
40
f»,^
IV
Contodii,
CI I APT F.U IV.
We lio;;in our ]in'iiarafiriiis for sowii);;. — riat " sport." — Wood-
peckers. — " Chifininiks." — Tlie blue jay. — The blue bird.
— The (li;:ht of birds
57
CIIAl'TKK V.
Some family elianjres. — Amusements. — ('ow-liuntinj;. — Our
".side-line." — llie Ixish. — Adventures with rattlestuikes.
— Garter-.snakes. — A frog's fliglU for life. — Black scpiirrels
74
CIIAPTFJl VI.
Spearinj; fish. — .\ncient British canoes. — Indian ones. — A
bar;^ain with an Indian. — Henry's cold bath. — Canadian
thnnderslornis. — Poor Yorick's death. — Our },'lorions au-
tumns. — Tlie clian^^e of the leaf. — Sunsets. — Indian .sum-
nior. — The fall rains and the roads, — The lirst snow. —
Canadian enld. — A winter landscape — "Ice-storms." —
Snow crystals. — Tlie niiiiiite perfection of CJod's wfjrks. —
Deer-shoolinj^'. — David's niisfortune. — Useless cruelty. —
Shedding of the stag's horns
89
CIIAPTEU VIT.
Wolves. — My adventure with a bear. — Courtenay's cow and
the wolves. — A fright in the woods by night. — The river
freezes. — Our winter tires. — Cold, cold, cold ! — A winter's
journey. — Sleighing. — Winter inufTlings. — Accidents
through intense cold
127
CIIAPTEU VIII.
The aurora borcalis. — " Jumpers." — Squaring timber. — Rafls.
— Camping out. — A public meeting. — Winter fashions. —
My toe frozen. — A long winter's walk. — Hospitality. —
Nearly lost in the woods 142
Contents.
CHAl'TKK IX.
Involuntary rarinp. — A Itackwoods' parsoiiapc. — (Inivos in
tlif wililcriii'ss. — Ndtiorm of fijiialify. — Arctic wiiilors.
— Kiirtcd jiiiinsc. — Indian fisliinj; in winter. — A niarriago.
— Our winter's pork
158
("HAl'TKU X.
Our ncifxlibors. — IriM-ct pla^'iics. — Military nnicfrs' families in
tlic l)ii^-li. — Anaukwani nii.>-take. — l>r. I) nearly sluit
for a liear. — Major .M . — Our eandles. — Fortunate
escape from a fatal accident 170
CHAI'TER XI.
'* Xow SprliiLT returns.'' — Sti;^ar-makinp. — Hi:stj psalmody. —
Hush j)reachinj;. — Worsiiip under dillicultics. — A clerical
Mrs. Partin^^toii. — Hiolo^y. — A ghost. — " It slips good."
— Squatters .
181
CHAPTER XII.
Btish magi.strates. — Indian forest guides. — Senses quickened
by necessity. — breaking up of the ice. — Dejith of the frost.
— A grave in winter. — A ball. — A holiday coat . . 196
CHAPTER XIII.
Wild leeks. — Spring birds. — Wilson's poem on the blue bird.
— Downy woodpeckers. — Passenger pigeons. — Their num-
bers. — Koosting places. — The frogs. — IJull frogs. — Tree
frogs. — Flying squirrels 207
CHAPTER XIV.
Our spring crops. — Indian corn. — Pumpkins.
Fruits. — Wild flowers
Melons.
220
fi Contaits,
CIIAPTKR XV. '
The Indian^. — Wigwams. — Dress. — Can tho Iiidiann be civi-
lized? — Their past doray a» a race. — Alleged innocence of
ravage lite. — Narrative of Katlier Jogiies, tiic Jesuit nii.s{?
..V
■ i:
^ '4'
wind right, to see how we glided through the
(Truen naileries of the sea, wliich rose, crested with
white, at each side. One day and night we had,
wliat we thought, a great storm. The sails were
nearly all stiaick, and I heard the mate say that the
two that were left did more hann than good, because
tliey only drove the ship deeper into the water.
When it grew nearly dark, I crept up the cabin-
stairs to look along the deck at the waves ahead.
I could see them risino; like great black mountains
seamed with snow, and coming with an awful mo-
tion towards us, making the ship climb a huge hill,
as it were, the one moment, and go down so steeply
the next, that you could not help being afraid that
it was sinking bodily into the depths of the sea.
The wind, meanwhile, roared through the ropes and
yards, and eveiy little while there was a hollow
thump of some wave against the bows, followed by
the rush of water over the bulwarks. I had read
the account of the storm in Virgil, and am sure he
must have seen something like what I saw that
night to have written it. There is an ode in Hor-
ace to him, when he was on the point of setting out
on a voyage. Perhaps he saw it then. The de-
scription in the Bible is, however, the grandest pic-
ture of a storm at sea : " The Lord commandeth,
and raiseth the stormy wind, which lifteth up the
waves of the deep. They mount up to heaven,
they go down again to the depths : their soul is
melted because of trouble. They reel to and fro
Ilrl
■ i
24
Our Log-lwusc.
I
u ;
I
m f
woods ocautiful, and tlie birds had ben-un to flit
about, so tliat the cheerf'uhicss of nature kept us
fronri tliinkin^ mucli of our troubles. Jt took us
three days to go a hundred and fifty miles, and we
stopped on the way besides for my brother's busi-
ness, so that the rest of our party had reached our
new home, by their route, before us.
The look of the house which was to be our
dwelling was novel enough to me, with my old
ideas about houses still in my head. It was built a
little back from the river, far enough to give room
for a garden when we had time to make one ; and
the trees had been cut down from the water's edcje
to some distance behind the house, to make things a
little more cheery, and also to prevent the risk of
any of them falling on our establishment in a high
wind. The house itself had, in fact, been built of
the logs procured by felling these patriarchs of the
forest, every one of which had, as usual on Cana-
dian farms, been cut dow\i. My brother had left
special instructions to spaie some of the smaller
ones, but the " chopper " had understood him ex-
actly the wrong way, and had cut down those
pointed out with especial zeal as the objects of his
greatest dislike. Building the house must have
been very heavy work, for it was made of great
logs, the whole thickness of the trees, piled one on
another, a story and a half high. The neighbors
had made what they call a " bee " to help to " raise"
it — that is, they had come without expecting
k «k^,'
How it was Built.
25
I to flit
ko})t us
took us
and we
's busi-
lied our
be our
my old
s built a
ve room
le ; and
!r's edfre
tilings a
e risk of
1 a high
built of
s of the
n Cana-
had left
smaller
lim ex-
n those
s of his
st have
Df great
one on
iighbors
" raise"
:pecting
wa^-es, but witli tho understaiidini!;; that each would
^ot l>ack from us, wljcn he waiiti'*! it, as many
days' labor as he had ^iveii. They nianaixc a
dirticult business like that of *2;ettiuvn, and fixed by wooden pins to
sleepers made of thin young trees, cut the right
lengths. Overhead, a number of similar round
poles, about the tliickness of a man's leg, supported
the floor of the upper story, which was to be my
sisters' bedroom. They had planks, however, in-
stead of boards, in honor of their sex, perhaps.
They had to climb to this jjaradise by an extraor-
i ;.4 w^i
llow it wats Built.
27
fliiiarv ladder, inado with the never-l'ailinii; axe and
aiioiT, out ot'irrcc'M, round wood. I used always to
tliink of lvol)inson Crusoe m'ttinlov';i:hinor or drawin
"■"S-ay.
'l:j^
i,
'■if »
.1- .
Ki
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4
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84 What some of our Neighbors brought.
get Ohio coal now, in the larger towns ; but there
was none then anywhere. The only fuel burned
all through the country parts, in fireplaces, is, still,
great thick pieces of split logs, four feet long. One
settler from Ireland had heard that there were a
grejit many rattlesnakes in Canada ; and as he had
been a cavalry volunteer, and had the accoutre-
ments, he brought a brass helmet, a regulation
sabre, buckskin breeches, and jack-boots with him,
t]i '. he might march safely through the jungle
wiiich he suj)})Osed he should find on his route.
7'he J V ng clergyman who afterwards came out
had a different fear. He thouoht there 'miixht be
no houses for him to sleep in at nights, and brought
out a hammock to swing up under the trees.
What he thought the people to whom he was to
preach lived in, I don't know ; perhaps he fancied
we cooked our dinners under the trees, and lived
without houses, like the Indians. In some coun-
tries, hannnocks are used in travelling through
uninhabited places, on account of the poisonous
insects on the ground and the thickness of the vege-
tation ; but in Canada such a thing is never heard
of, houses being always within reach in the parts at
all settled ; and travellers sleep on the ground when
beyond the limits of civilization. But to sleep in
the open air at all makes one such a figure before
morning with mosquito-bites, that nobody would try
it a second time, if he could help it. I was once
on a journey up Lake Huron, of which I shall
V
i
'>^
Hot days.
86
it tliere
burned
is, still,
One
were a
he had
coutre-
uhition
h him,
jungle
route,
ne out
ght be
rouo-lit
trees,
was to
fancied
I lived
coun-
irouo-li
sonous
5 vege-
heard
arts at
. when
eep in
before
Id try
once
shaU
.«
speak by and by, where we had to sleep a night on
the ground, and, what with ants running over us,
and with the mosquitoes, we had a most ^vretched
time of it. A friend who was with me had his nose
so bitten that it was thicker above than below,
and looked exactly as if it had been turned upside *
down in the dark.
It took us some time to get every tiling fairly in
order, but it was all done after a while. We were
all in good health ; every thing before us was new ;
and the weather, though very warm, was often
delightful in the evening. Through the day it was
sometimes very oppressive, and we had hot nights
now and then that were still worse. A sheet
seemed as heavy as if it had been a pair of blankets,
and when we were sure the door was fast, we were
glad to throw even it aside. We always took a
long rest at noon till the sun got somewhat cooler,
but the heat was bad enough even in the shade. I
have known it pretty nearly, if not quite, 100°
some days in the house. I remember hearing some
old gentlemen once talking about it, and telhng
each other how they did to escape it: the one
declared that the coolest part of the house was
below the bed, and the other, a very stout clergy-
man, said he found the only spot for study was in
the cellar. Captain W used to assert that it
was often as hot in Canada as in the West Indies.
My sisters never went with so little clothing
before ; and, indeed, it was astonishing how their
36
Bmh Costumes.
^m
ii-ii
1
■r
circumference collapsed under the influence of the
sun. As to us, we thought only of coolness.
Coarse straw hats, with broad brims, costing about
eightpence apiece, with a liandkerchief in the crown
to keep the heat off the head ; a shirt of blue cot-
ton, wide trovvsers of dark printed calico, or, indeed,
of any thing thin, and boots, composed our dress.
But this was elaborate, compared with that adopted
by a gentleman who was leading a batchelor life
back in the bush some distance from us. A friend
went to see him one day, and found him frying
some bacon on a fire below a tree before his door ;
— a potato-pot hanging by a chain over part of it,
from a bough — his only dress being a shirt, boots,
a hat, and a belt round his waist, with a knife in it.
He had not tliought of any one penetrating to his
wilderness habitation, and laughed as heartily at
being caught in such a plight as my friend did at
catching him. For my part, I tliought I should be
cooler still if I turned up my shirt-sleeves ; but my
arms got forthwith so tanned and freckled, that even
yet they are more useful than beautiful. One day
there chanced to be a torn place on my shoulder,
which I did not notice on going out. I thought,
after a time, that it was very hot, but took it for
granted it could not be helped. When I came in
at dinner, however, I was by no means agreeably
surprised when my sister Margaret called out to
jne, *' George, there's a great blister on your shoul-
der," which sure enougli there was. I took care
to have always a whole shirt after that.
4
V
i
T
5
f
'"^
Siinrstrokes.
37
i
care
We had hardly been a month on the river when
we heard that a man, fresh from Enghmd, who liad
been at work for a neighbor, came into the liouse
one afternoon, saying he had a headache, and died,
poor fellow, in less than an hour. He had a sun-
stroke. Sometimes those who are thus seized fall
down at once in a fit of apoplexy, as was the case
with Sir Charles Napier in Scinde. I knew a sin-
o-ular instance of Avhat the sun sometimes does, in
tiic case of a young man, a plumber b}"" trade, who
had been working on a roof in one of the towns on
a hot day. He was struck down in an instant, and
was only saved from death by a fellow-workman.
For a time he lost his reason, but that gradually
caine back. He lo.>t the power of every part of his
body, however, except his head, nothing remaining
alive, you may say, but that. He could move or
control his eyes, mouth, and neck, but that was all.
He had been a strong man, but he wasted away
till his legs and arms were not thicker than a
child's. Yet he got much better eventually, after
being bedridden for several years, and when I last
was at his house, could creep about on two crutches.
I used to pity my sisters, who had to work over
the fire, cooking for us. It was bad enough for
girls who had just left a fashionable . nool in Eng-
land, and were quite young yet, to do work which
hitherto they had always had done for them, but to
have to stoop over a fire in scorching hot weather
must have been very exhausting. They had to
4
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: 1
1 pi
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38
G-oing to Mill.
bake in a large iron pot, set upon embers, and cov-
ered with them over tlie lid ; and the dinner had to
be cooked on the logs in the kitchen fireplace, until
we thought of setting up a contrivance made by lay-
ing a stout stick on two upright forked ones, driven
into the ground at each end of a fire kindled out-
side, and hanging the pots from it. While I think
of it, what a source of annoyance the cooking on
the logs in the fireplace was before we got a crane \/-
I remember we once had a large brass panful of
rasnberry jam, nicely poised, as we thought, on the
burning logs, and just ready to be lifted off, when,
lo I some of the firewood below gave way and down
it went into the ashes ! Baking was a hard art to
learn. What bread we had to eat at first ! We
used to quote Hood's lines —
" Who has not heard of home-made bread —
That heavy compound of putty and lead 1 "
But practice, and a few lessons from a neighbor's
wife, made my sisters quite expert at it. We had
some trouble in getting flour, however, after our
first stock ran out. The mill was five miles off,
and, as we had only oxen, it was a tedious job get-
ting to it and back again. One of my brothers
used to set off at five in the morning, with his
breakfast over, and was not back again till nine or
ten at night — that is, after we had wheat of our
own. It had to be ground while he waited. But
it was not all lost time, for the shoemaker's was
■<-■;«
Our part of the houseivork.
39
crane W
near tlie mill, and we always made the same jour-
ney do for both. In winter we were sometimes
badly off when our flour ran short. On fjjetting to
the mill, we, at times, found the wheel frozen hard,
and that the miller had no flour of his own to sell.
I have known us for a fortnight having to use po-
tatoes instead of bread, when our neighbors hap-
pened to be as ill provided as we, and could not
lend us a " baking."
But bakincT was not all that had to be done in a
house like ours, with so many men in it. No ser-
vants could be had ; the girls round, even when
their fathers had been laborers in England, were
quite above going out to service, so that my sisters
had their hands full. We tried to help them as
much as we could, brinofinj; in the wood for tho
fire, and carrying all the^ water from the river.
Indeed, I used to think it almost a pleasure to fetch
the water, the river was so beautifullv clear.
Never was crystal more transparent. I was wont
to idle as well as work while thus employed, looking
at the beautiful stones and pebbles that lay at the
bottom, ftir beyond the end of the plank that served
for our " wharf."
I
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11
40
Clearing the Land
CHAPTER III.
Clearin;^ the land. — David's brafr;,nng, and the end of it. — Burning
the l()f,^-lu'aps. — Our lo^-^^inj^ bee. — What pri'jndico can do. —
Our fences an'
i ,
I'
ii'
¥
i>
60
Mosquitoes.
sides. But, tliougli he is done you are not, for
some jioisouous secretion is instilled into the })unc-
ture, which causes pain, inflannnation, and swelling,
lono; after he is <>one. We had a little smooth-
haired terrier which seemed to ])lease their taste
almost as much as we ourselves did. When it 2;ot
into the woods, they would settle on the ])oor brute,
in sj)ite of all its efforts, till it was almost black with
them. Horses and oxen m^t no rest from their at-
tacks, and between them and the horse-Hies 1 have
seen the sides of the j)oor thinos runm'no; with blood.
** Dey say ebery ting has some use," said a negro
to me one day ; " 1 wonder what de mosqueeter's
good for?" So do I. A clei-gyman who once
visited us declared that he thought they and all such
pests were part of what is meant in the Bible by
the power of the devil ; lut whether he was right
or not is beyond me to settle. Perhaps they keep
off fevers from ar.imals by bleeding them as they do.
But you know what Socrates said, tliat it was the
liiiihest attainment of wisdom to feel that we kno\v
nothing, so that, even if we can't tell why they are
there, we may be sure, that, it' we knew as much
as we mio;ht, we should find that thev served some
wise pur])ose. At the same time 1 have often been
right glad to think that the little nuisances must
surely have short commons in the unsettled dis-
tricts, where there are no p<^ople nor cattle to tor-
ment.
The liarrowing was also my first special intro-
A Huge Fli).
61
Mo;lit
y do.
s the
vllovV
V are
luu'h
some
been
must
I dis-
-) tor-
intro-
duction to the horse-flies — jT;reat liorrid creatures
tliat they are. They fastened on tlie oxen at every
])ai't, and stuck tlie five knives witli whicli their
])rol)()scis is armed, deep into the flesli. Tliey are
as lariie as honey-hees, so that you may jud^'e how
nuu'h thev torment tlieir victims, i have seen tliem
make a horse's flard^s red with the l)h)od from tlieir
bites. They were too numerous to be driven oft' by
the h)Mij; tails of eitlier oxen or horses, and, to tell
the truth, I was half afraid to come near them lest
they should take a fancy to myself. It is conuuon
in travc'lhuij; to ])ut leafy branches of maple or some
other tree over the horses' ears and head, to protect
tlu'in as far as possible.
The larfjest fly I ever saw, lio;hted on the fence,
close to me, about this time. \N''e had been frio;ht-
cned by stories of things as biji; as your thumb,
that soused down on you before you knew it, but
I never, before or since, saw such a jj;iant of a fly
as this fellow. It was just like the house-fly majj;-
iiitied a great many times, how many I should not
like to say. I took to mv heels in a moment, for
fear of instant death, and saw no more of it.
Whether it would have bitten me or not I cannot
tell, but I was not at all inclined to try the experi-
ment.
All this time we have left the oxen pullinij; away
at the harrow, but we must leave them a minute or
two lono-er, till we i';et done with all the Hies at once.
There is a little black speck called the sand-fly,
fll
*
ifi'
1 \W^
■aasaa
JK
62
Sand-flies.
'AM i.
J tr
which many think even worse than the mosquito.
It comes in clouds, and is too small to ward off,
and its hite causes acute pain for hours after. But,
notwithstanding gadflies, mosquitoes, horse-flies,
and this last pest, the sand-fly, we were better off
than the South American Indians of whom Hum-
boldt speaks, who have to hide all night three or
four inches deep in the sand to keep themselves
from mosquitoes as large as bluebottles ; and our
cattle had nothing to contend with like such a fly
as the tzetse, which Dr. Livingstone tells us, is
fovmd in swarms on the South African rivers, a bite
of which is certain death to any horse or ox.
How curious it is, by the way, that any poison
should be so powerful that the quantity left by the
bite of a fly should be able to kill a great strong
horse or an ox ; and how very wonderful it is,
moreover, that the fly's body should secrete such a
frightful poison, and that it should carry it about in
it without itself suffering any harm ! Dr. Buckland,
of the Life Guards, was once poisoned by some of
the venom of a cobra di capello, a kind of serpent,
getting below his nail, into a scratch he had given
himself with a knife he had used in skinnino; a rat,
which the serpent had killed. And yet the serpent
itself could have whole glands full of it, without
getting any Imrt. But if the cobra were to bite its
own body it would die at once. The scorpion can
and does sting itself to death.
When we had got our field harrowed over twice
■0
Winter Wheat.
63
twice
or thrice, till every part of it had been well
scratched up, and the ashes well mixed with the
soil, our next step was to sow it, after which camo
another harrowing, and then we had only to wait
till the harvest next July, hoping we might be
favored with a good crop. That a blade so slight
as that of young wheat should be able to stand the
cold of the Canadian winter has always seemed to
me a great wonder. It grows up the first year just
like crass, and mi^ht be mistaken for it even in the
beginning of the following spring. The snow
which generally covers it during the long cold sea-
son is a great protection to it, but it survives even
when it has been bare for lono; intervals too;ether,
though never, I believe, so strong, after such hard-
ships suffered in its infancy. The show not only
protects, but, in its melting, nourishes, the young
plant, so that not to have a good depth of it is a
double evil. But, snow or not snow, the soil is
almost always frozen like a rock, and yet the tender
green blades live through it all, unless some thaw
during winter expose the roots, and a suljsecpient
frost seize them, in which case the plant dies.
Large patches in many fields are thus destroyed in
years when the snow is not deep enough. What
survives must have suspended its life while the
earth in which it grows is frozen. Yet, after being
thus asleep for months — indeed, more than asleep,
for every process of life must be stopped, the first
breath of spring brings back its vigor, and it wakes
'! 'I'T
I
}
9B
aa
64
TJie Wonders of Plant-life.
I •■
W
*■■
as If it had been growing all the time. How won-
derful are even the common facts of nature ! The
life of plants I have always thought very much so.
Our life perishes if it be stopped for a very sliort
time, but tlie beautiful robe of flowers and verdure
with which the world is adorned is well-nio;h inde-
structible. Most of you know the story of Pope's
weeping willow : the poet had received a present
of a basket of figs from the levant, and when open-
ing it, discovered that part of the twigs of which it
was made were already budding, from some mois-
ture that had reached thorn, and this led him to
plant one, which, when it had grown, became the
stock whence all the Babylonian willows in Eng-
land have come. Then we are told that seeds
gathered from beneath the ashes at Pompeii, after
being buried for eighteen hundred years, have
grown on being brought once more to the light,
and it has often been found, that others brought up
from the bottom of wells, when they were being
dug, or from beneath accumulations of sand, of
unknown age, have only to be sown near the sur-
face to commence instantly to grow. It is said
that wheat, found in the coffins of mummies in
Egypt, has sjirung up freely when sown, but the
proof of any having done so Is thought by others
insufficient. Yet there is nothing to make such a
thing impossible, and perhaps some future explorer
like Dr. Layard or Mr. Loftus, may come on grains
older still, In Babylon or Nineveh, and give us
\hi.\
k
4
^
4
*v
Woodpeckers.
65
of
ur-
aid
in
the
ers
1 a
>rer
'^'
I
bread from tiie wlieat that Nebuchadnezzar or Sein-
iramis used to eat. Indeed, M. Michelet tells us,
that some seeds found in the inconceivably ancient
Diluvial drift readilv i '1
i f ■*■
-m-t
ing a wiiidiii;!^ passage down to it, and then making
two or three })antries, as 1 may call them, at the
sides of their nest, or sitting and slevping-room,
for their cxtru HukI. They do not often go np the
trees, bnt if they be frigJitenetl, and cannot get to
their hole>, they rnn iijj the trunks, and get from
branch to branch with wonderful quick uess. Some-
times we tried to cat(di one when it would thus go
up some small, low tree, of which there were num-
bers on the edi::e of a »itream two Heids back on our
farm ; but it was always too (juick for us, and after
making sure 1 had it, and climbing the tree to get
hold of it, it would be otf in some magical way,
before our eyes, let us do our best. Then, at other
times, we would try to catch one in an old log, but
with no better success. Henry would get to the
one ercl and 1 to the other, and make sure it
could n' I get out. It always did get out, however,
and all we could do was to admire its beautiful
shape, with the squirrel head, and a soft brown
coat which was striped with black, lengthwise, and
its arch little tail, which was never still a moment.
Some of the birds were the greatest beauties you
could imagine. We would see one fly into the
woods, all crimson, or seemingly so, and perhaps,
soon after, another, which was like a living emerald.
They were small birds — not larger than a thrush
— and not very numerous ; but I cannot trust
myself to give their true names. The blue jay
was one of the prettiest of all the feathered folk
Hi r
The Blue Jay.
tn
but
the
it
!ver,
it'ul
own
and
lent,
you
the
laps,
aid.
ush
trust
folk
n
tliat used to come and look at us. Wijat a briglit,
quick eye it lias ! wliat a beautiful bhie crest to
raise or let down, as its pride or curiosity moves it
or passes away ! iiow exquisitely its win.i
--H
— r
r -ti
""'I'liiiftiin
41
72
The Fliyht of Birds.
they must lia^'o to see clearl}' over such a landscape
as must open at so great an elevation ! and how
little, after all, can that help them on a journey of
thousand of miles ! Moore's beautiful verse speaks
of the intentness with which the pigeon speeds to
ts goal, and how it keeps so high up in the air :
" The dove let loose in eastern skies,
Ketuniiiig fondly home,
Ne'er stoops to earth her wing, nor flies
Where idle warblers roam."
I have noticed that all birds, when on long flights,
seek the upper regions of the air : the ducks ar^d
swans, that used to pass over us in the spring, va
their way to their breeding-places in the Arctic re-
gions, were always so high that they looked like
strings of moving specks in the sky. They always
fly in certain order, the geese in single file, arranged
like a great V, the two sides of it stretching far
away from each other, but the birds which form the
figure never losing their respective places. Some
of the ducks, on the other hand, kept in wedge-
shaped phalanxes, like the order in which Hannibal
disposed his troops at the Battle of Cannae. Whether
they fly so high to see better, or because the air is
thinner and gives them less resistance, or to be out
of the reach of danger, or to keep from any temp-
tation to alight and loiter on their way, it would be
hard to tell, but with all the help which their height
can give them, is has always been a great wonder
liiiibal
lether
air is
je out
temp-
uld be
height
ondel
The Fliyht of Birds.
:^.
to me how they knew the road to take. There m\is\,
surely be --ome senses in sucli creatures of which wt
do not know, or those they have must be very mu('\»
more acute than ours. How does a bee find its
way home for miles ? And how does the little hum-
ming-bird — of which I shall speak more hereaftei
— thread its way, in its swift arrowy fliiinpany, straight
up the bbized line ai the *ide of our lot. I mean,
up a line aVung whkib. the trees had been notarked by
slices ( at out of their sides, to show the way to the
K
Cow-hmiting.
77
lots at the back of ours. It Avas all op^n for a little
way back, for the post road })assed up from the
bank of the river along the side of our farm, for five
or six acres, and then turned at a right angle par-
allel with the river again, and there was a piece of
the side line cleared for some distance bevond the
turn. After this })iece of civilization had been
])assed, however, nature had it all to herself. The
first twelve or fifteen acres lay tine and high, and
could almost always be got over easily, but the
ground dropped down at that distance to the edge
of a little stream, and rose on the other side, to
stretch away in a dead level, for I know not how
many miles. The streamlet, which was sometim.es
much swollen after thaws or rains, was crossed by
a rough sort of bridge formed of the cuts of young
trees, which rested on stouter supports of the same
kind, stretching from bank to bank. One of the
freshets, however, for a time destroyed this easy
communication, and left us no way of crossinix till
it was repaired, but either by fording, or by ventur-
ing over the trunk of a tree, which was felled so as
to reach across the gap and make an apology for a
bridge. It used at first to be a dreadful job to get
over this primitive pathway, but I got so expert
that I could run over it easily and safely enough.
The dogs, however, generally preferred the water,
unless when it was deep. Then there were pieces
of swampy land, further back, over which a string
of felled trees, one beyond the other, ofltered, again,
7*
H
I
fj
p^rp!s|
lAn
I
,!!';;(l
111;' :*'
•
78
Cow-hmiting.
the only passage. These were the worst to cross,
for the wet had generally taken ott' the bark, and
they often bent almost into the water with your
weight. One day, when I was making my best
attempt at getting over one of these safely, an old
settler on a lot two miles back made his appearance
at the further side.
" Bad roads, Mr. Brown," said I, accosting him,
for every one speaks to every one else in such a
place as that.
"Yes, Mr. Stanley — bad roads, indeed; but
it's nothing to have only to walk out and in.
What do you think it must have been when I had
to bring my furniture back on a sleigh in summer-
time ? We used wagons on the dry places, and
then got sleighs for the swamps ; and, Mr. Stan-
ley, do you know, I'm sure two or three times you
hardly saw more of the oxen for a minute tlian just
the horns. We had all to go through the water
ourselves to get them to pull, and even then they
stuck fast with our load, and we had to take it off
and carry it on our backs the best way we could.
You don't know any thing about it, Mr. Stanley.
I had to carry a chest of drawers on my shoulders
through all this water, and every bit that we ate
for a whole year, till we got a crop, had to be
brought from the front, the same way, over these
logs."
No doubt he spoke the truth, but, notwithstand-
ing his gloomy recollections, it used to be grand
Cow-hunting.
79
fun to go back, except when I could not find the
cows, or when they would not let themselves be
driven home. The dogs would be oft' after a squir-
rel every little while, though they never could
catch one, or they would splash into the water
with a thousand gambols to refresh themselves
from the heat, and get quit of the mosquitoes.
Then tliere can be nothing more beautiful than
the woods themselves, when the leaves are in all
their bravery, and the ground is varied by a thou-
sand forms of verdure, wherever an opening lets in
the sun. The trees are not broad and umbrageous
like those in the parks of England. Their being
crowded together makes them grow far higher
before the branches begin, so that you have great
high trunks on every side, like innumerable pillars
in some vast cathedral, and a high open roof of
green, far over head, the white and blue of the
sky filling up the openings in the fretwork of the
leaves. There is always more or less undergrowth
to heighten the beauty of the scene, but not
enough, except in swampy places, to obscure the
view, which is only closed in the distance by the
closer and closer gathering of the trees as tli y re-
cede. The thickness of some of these monarchs of
the forest, the fine shape of others, and the vast
height of nearly all ; the exhaustless charms of the
great canopy of mingled leaves and branches, and
sky and cloud above ; the picturesque vistas in the
openings here and there around ; the endless
Iff
'UM
•>\.
f U
80
The Bush.
■> 'li!
i^ ''.i:.
I
variety of shade and form in the yonng trees
springing uj) at intervals ; the flowers in one spot,
the rough fretting of tiillen and mouldering trees,
bright with every tint of fungus, or red with decay,
or decked with mosses and lichens, in others, and
the graceful outline of hroad beds of fern, contrast-
ing with the many-colored carpet of leaves — made
it deliiihtful to stroll alt)no;. The silence that
reigns heightens the })leasure and adds a calm so-
lenniity. The stroke of an axe can be heard for
miles, and so may the sound of a cow-bell, as 1
have sometimes found to my sorrow. But it was
only when the cows or oxen could be easily got
that I was disposed to think of the poetry of the
journey. They always kept together, and 1 knew
the sound of our bell at anv distance ; but some-
times I could not, by any listening, catch it, the
wearer having perhaps lain down to chew the cud,
and then, what a holloairg and getting up on fallen
trees to look for them, and wandering; till I was
fairly tired. One of the oxen had for a time the
honor of bearing the bell, but I found, after a
while, that he added to my trouble in finding him
and his friends, bv his cunninfj;, and we trairsferred
it to one of the cows. The brute had a fixed dis-
like to going home, and had learned that the tinkle
of the bell was a sure })relude to his being led off,
to prevent which, he actually got shrewd enough
to hold his head, while resting, in so still a way
that he hardly made a sound. I have seen him,
■4
Adventures with Rattlesnakes.
81
Icrh
wlien I had at last hunted him up, lookiut]^ side-
wavs at me with his great eyes, afraid for his hfe
to stir his head lest the horrid claj>})er should pro-
claim his presence. When I did get them they
were not always willing to be driven, and would
set otf with their heads and tails up, the oxen ac-
companying them, the bell making a hideous cltui-
gor, careering away over every im})ediment,
straight into the woods, in, perhaps, the very oppo-
site direction to that in which I wished to lead
them. Then for a race to head tliem, round logs,
over logs, through brush and below it, the dogs
dashing on ahead, where they thought I was going,
and looking back every minute, as if to wonder
what 1 was about. It was sometimes the work of
hours to get them home, and sometimes for days
too-ether we could not find them at all.
There is little to fear from wild animals in the
bush in Canada. The deer were too frightened to
trouble us, and, though I have some stories to tell
about bears and wolves, they were so seldom seen
that they did not give us much alarm. But I was
always afraid of the rattlesnakes especially in the
long grass that grew in some wet places. I never
saw but one, however, and that was once, years
after, when I was riding up a narrow road that had
been cut through the woods. My horse was at a
walk, when, suddenly, it made a great spring to
one side, very nearly unseating me, and then stood
looking at a low bush aiid trembling in every limb.
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TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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Sciences
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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82
Adventures with Rattlesnakes.
The next moment I Iieard tlie liorrible rattle,
and my liorse commenced a set of leaps from one
side to the otlier, backhig all the while, and snort-
in*^ wildly. 1 could not ^et oil', and as little could
I (];et my horse turned away, so great was his fear.
Two men luckily came n}> just at this time, and at
once saw the cause of the j)oor brute's alarm, which
was soon ended by one of them making a dash at
the snake with a thick stick, and breakino; its neck
at a blow, liemy told us once that lie was chased
by one which he had disturbed, and 1 can easily
credit it, for I have seen smaller snakes get very
infuriated, and if one was alarmed, as in Henry's
case, it miii;ht readily iilide after him for some dis-
tance. However, it i'ared badly in the end, for a
stick ended its days abru})tly. I was told one
story that I believe is true, though ridiculous
enough. A good man, busy mowing in his field,
in the summer costume of hat, shirt, and boots,
found himself, to his horror, face to face with a
rattlesnake, which, on his instantly throwing down
his scythe and turning to Hee, sprang at his tails
and fixed its fano;s in them inextricablv. The
next s})ring — the cold body of the snake struck
against his legs, making him certain he had been
bitten. He was a full mile from his house, but
despair added strength and s])eed. Away he Hew
— over logs, fences, every tiling — the snake dash-
ing against him with every jump, till he reached
his home, into which he rushed, shouting, " The
j. V'
Adventures with Rattlesnakes.
88
snake, the snake ! I'm bitten, I'm bitten I " Of
course they were all alarmed enough, but when
they came to examine, the terror proved to be the
whole of the injuiy suifered, the snake's body hav-
ing been knocked to pieces on the way, the head,
only, remaining fixed in the spot at which it had
originally sprung. David and Henry were one
day at work in our field, where there were some
bu.shes close to a stump near the fence. The two
were near each other when the former saw a num-
ber of young rattlesnakes at Heniy's side, and, as
a good joke, for we laughed at the danger, it
seemed so slight, cried out — "Henry! Henry I
look at the rattlesnakes ! " at the same time
mounting the fence to the highest rail to enjoy
Henry's panic. But the young ones were not dis-
posed to trouble any one, so that he instantly saw
that he had nothing to fear ; whereas, on looking
toward David, there was quite enough to turn the
laugh the other way. *' Look at your feet, Da-
vid ! " followed in an instant, and you may easily
imagine how quickly the latter was down the outer
side of the fence, and away to a safe distance,
when, on doing as he was told, he saw the mother
of the brood poised below him for a spring, which,
but for Henry, she would have made the next mo-
ment.
Pigs have 8 wonderful power of killing snakes,
their hungry stomachs tempting them to the attack
for the sake of eating their bodies. I don't know
I
1 ■ ■'^
vyi
.^!|
ii '
1^
84
Garter Snakes.
tliat tliey ever set on rattlesnakes, but a fiiend of
mine saw one with tiie body of a great black snake,
the thickness of his wrist, and tour or five feet long,
lying over its back. Monsieur Pig converting the
whole into pork as fast as he could, by vigorously
swallowing joint Jifter joint.
The garter snake is the only creature of lis kind
whicli is very common in Canada, and very beauti-
ful and harmless it is. But it is never seen with-
out getting killed, unless it beat a very speedy re-
treat into some log or j)ile of stones, or other shelter.
The influence of the story of the Fall in the Garden
of Eden is fatal to the whole tribe of snakes, against
every individual of which a merciless crusade is
■waejed the moment one is seen. The garter snake
feeds on frogs and other small creatures, as I
chanced to see one day when walking up the road.
In a broad bed of what they call tobacco-weed, a
chase for life or deatl. was beinij made between a
poor frog and one of these snakes. The frog evi-
dently knew it was in danger, for you never saw
such lea])s as it would take to get away from its
enemy, falling into the weeds, after each, so as to
be hidden for a time, if it had only been able to
keej) so. But the snnke would raise itself up on a
slight coil of its tail, and from that height search
every place with its bright wicked eyes for its l)rey,
, and presently glide oti' toward where the poor frog
lay j)anting. Tlien for another leap, and anoiier
poising, to scan tlie field. I don't know how it
Black Squirrels,
8ft
ended, for I liad watched tlicMii till they were a
|T()o{l way off. How tlie snake would ever swallow
it, it' it cauick stick held in a
man's hand.
We had very pleasant recreation now and then,
hunting black squirrels, which were cajtital eating.
Thev are much larwr than either the gray or the
red ones, and taste very much like j'abbitii, from
86
Black Squirrels.
■■ ' ■*■
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S> ii'IIm.
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■ ' 1 '
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ii !. ,
fii
It
!
whicli, indeed, it would be liard to distino;nisli tlicm
when they are on tlie tal)le. IJotli they and tlie
gray squirrel are very rommon, and are sometimes
great ])csts to the farmer, making sad havoc with
In's Indian corn while green, and with the young
wheat. In Pennsylvania this at one time came to
such a [)itch that a law was passed, ollering three-
pence a-head for every one destroyed, which re-
sulted, in 1741>, in 8,000/. being paid in one year an
head-money for those killed. Their great nundjers
sometimes develop strange instincts, very dilferent
from those we might exj)ect. From scarcity of
food, or some other unknown cause, all the scpnrrels
in a larjie district will at times take it into their heads
to make a regular nnVration to some other region.
Scattered bodies are said to gather from distant
points, and mai'shal themselves into one great host,
which then sets out on its chosen march, [dlowing
nothing whatever — be it mountain or river — to
stop them. We ourselves had proof enough that
nothing in the shape of water, short of a lake, could
do it. Our neighbors agreed in telling us that, a
few years before we came, it had been a bad sum-
mer for nuts, and that the squirrels of all shades
had evidently seen the perils of the approaching
winter, and made up their minds to emigrate to
more favored lands. Whether they held meetings
on the subject, and discussed the policy to be pur-
sued, was not known ; but it is certain that squir-
reldom at large decided on a united course of action.
^^
i\
Black Sauirreh.
87
Havinjnr ronie to this (loterniination, tlicy gathered,
it ai)j)eiir.s, in iininense numbers, in the trees at the
water's e(l«j:e% where tlie river was at least a mile
hroad, and had a "urrent of ahont two miles an
hour, and, witiiout hesitation, lauiu'hed oft' in thou-
sands on the stream, straiglit for the other side.
Whether they all eould swim so far, no one, of
course, eould tell ; hut vast numhers reached the
southern shore, and made for the woods, to seek
there the winter supplii's which liad heen deficii'ut
in the district they had left. How stran«re lor little
creatures like them to contrive and carrv out an
organized movement, whicli looked as complete
and deliherate as the mifrration of as manv human
beinirs ! What led them to cro to the south rather
than to the north ? There were no woods in siiiht on
the southern side, though there were forests enough
in th(; interior. I think we can only come to the
conclusion, which cannot be easily confuted, that
the lower creatures hiive some faculties of which we
have no idea whatever.
The black S(juirrels are very luirdy. You may
sec them in the woods, even in the middle of win-
ter, when their red or gray brethren, and the little
ground scjuirrels, are not to be seen. On bright
days, however, even these more delicate creatures
venture out, to see what the world is like, after their
long seclusion in their holes in the trees. They
must gather a large amount of food in the summer
and autumn to be sufHcient to keep them through
!|:i
w
88
Black Squirrels.
the long montlis of cold and frost, and their diligence
in getting reaJy in time for the season when their
food is buried out of their reach, is a capi.tal exam-
ple to us. They carry things from great distances
to their nests, if food be rather vscarce, or if they
find any delicacy worth laying up for a treat in the
winter. When the wheat is ripe they come out in
great numbers to get a share of the ears, and run
off with as many as they can manage to steal.
:l li^ ,1
: j
.'J i:
fu
sli
p
on
a io
bur
and
an
aJly
a slif
lonrr
hidk
Spmring Fish,
89
CHAPTER VI.
Spearing fish. -■ AnciiMit RritisJi rnnoos. — Indian nnps. — A bargain
witli an Indian. — Henry's cold hath. — Canadian thundtTstonns.
— I'oor Voritk's death. — Our gh)ri()iis autumns. — Tho clianga
of tlie leaf. — Sun.H'ts. — Indian summer. — Tlie fall rain.s and
the roads. — The first snow. — Canadian cold. — A winter land-
scape — " Ice-st(»rms." — Snow crystals. — The minute perfcc-
tion of God's works. — Deer-shooting. — [)avid'8 ini&fortune.—
Useless cruelty. — Shedding of the stag's horns.
SPEARING fisli by moonli ^
If'
'mM
Ml.....
after frencration, wliile tlic GrctMilander f^ocs to sea
ill his li^xht kaiack of'soal-skin, as the pohshed inhal>-
itaiit of Hahyhm, .as Herodotus tells us, used to Hoat
liis ve came to think so; but we
knew no better at first than to like it for its mas-
siveness, never thinking of the weiglit we should
have to push through the water. The price, how-
ever, was not very great, though more than would
have got us a right one, had we known enough.
The Indian who sold it to us paddled up with it,
with his wife in it with him, one morning, his dress
being a dirty printed calico shirt, and a pair of cloth
leggings ; her's, the never-failing blanket, and leg-
gings, like those of her husband. They were both
rather elderly, and by no means attractive in ap-
atc
addi
sell
nilrrl
tion,
like
to J(
Bargain with an Indian.
98
poanince. Robert and tlic rest of us happened to
be near tlie fenee at tlie river side at tlie time ; and
as the In(Han cwinr up, he sahited him, .as is usual,
with tlie words, '* Ho' jour," a corruption of the
phrase, " Bon jour," indieatino; curiously the extent
of the old French dominion in America — every
Indian, in any part, understanding, or, at least,
acknowled;i;in<:r it. A f^ruut ''!i Hie ])art of our
visitor conveyed his return o; the courtesy, and
was presently followed b^ '* C"noo, ,11, irood —
you buy?" Robert, thus a Idicssed, willingly
enoun;h entered into temptation, havirif; deter-
mined, sometime before, to buy one. Like ev'.ry
one else in Canada, he seemed naturally to tliink
that bad English makes good Indian, and pursued
the dialogue somewhat as follows: — Robert —
"Good c'noo?" Indian, w'itl\ a grunt, " Good,"
making sundry signs with his hands, to show liow
it skimmed the water, and how easily it could be
steered, both qualities being most sadly deficient,
as he must have known. Robert — "What for
you ask?" Indian, holding up eight fingers, and
nodding toward tliem, " dollar," making, immedi-
ately after, an imitation of smoking, to stand for an
additional value in tobacco. Robert — " Why you
sell ? " Indian — No answer, but a grunt, which
might either hide a wish to decline a difficult ques-
tion, by pretending ignorance, or any thing else we
like to suppose. Then followed more dumb-show,
to let us know what a treasure he was parting
94
Spearing Fish.
ijiiti
with. IVIy brotlier found it hopeless to get any in-
formation from him, notliing but grunts and an old
word or two of Euiilisli following; a number ot
inquiries. After a time the bargain was struck,
and having received the money and the tobacco,
he and his spouse departed, laugliing in their
sleeves, I dare say, at their success in getting a
canoe well sold which needed two or three men to
propel it at a reasonable rate.
It was with this affair we used to go out on our
spearing expeditions. A cresset, like those used in
old times to hold watchmen's lights, and a spear
with three prongs and a long handle, were all the
apparatus required. The cresset was fixed in the
bows of the canoe, and a knot of pitch-pine kindled
in it, threw a briijht lioht over and throu";h the
water. Only very still nights would do, for if
there was any ripple the fish could not be seen.
When it was perfectly calm we filled our cresset,
and setting it a fire, one of us would take his place
near the light, spear in hand, standing ready to use
it ; and another seated himself at the stern with a
paddle, and, with the least possible noise, pushed
off alono; the shallow edsie of the river. The fish
could be seen a number of feet down, restino; on
the bottom ; but in very deep water the spear could
not get down quickly enough, while the position of
the fish itself was changed so much by the refrac-
tion of the light, that it was very hard to hit it
even if we were not too slow. The stillness of the
Spear in cj Fish.
95
night — the beauty of the sliiniiii:^ skies — the deh-
cious mihhicss of the autumnal evenings — tlie
slee})ing smoothness of the great river — the l)lay
of h{' darting at them every few yards, made the
whole delightful. At first we always missed, by
miscalculating the position of our intended booty ;
but, after going out a few times with John Courte-
nay, a neighbor, and noticing how much he allowed
for the difference between the real and the appar-
ent spot for which to aim, we got the secret of the
art, and gradually managed to become pretty good
marksmen. There was an island in the river, at
the upper end of which a long tongue of shallow
bottom reached up the stream, and on this we
found the best sport : black bass, pike, herrings,
white-fish, cat-fish, sun-fish, and I don't know what
else, used to fall victims on this our best preserve.
I liked almost as well to paddle as to stand in the
bows to spear the fish, for watching the spearsman
and looking down at the fish kept you in a flash of
pleasant excitement all the time. Not a word was
spoken in the canoe, but I used to think words
cnouo-h. " There's a ereat sun-fish at the rio;ht
hand, let me steer for it;" and silently the paddle
would move us toward it, my brother motioning
mo with his hand either to hold back or turn
more this way, or that, as seemed necessary. *' I
i;
I *i
96
Ilenry^s Cold Bath.
4
wondor if lie'll get iiim ! " would rise in my mind,
as the spear was slowly poised. " Will lie dart
off?" "He moves a little — all! -there's a great
pike ; make a dart at him — whew, he's gone ! "
and, sure enough, only the bare ground was visi jle.
Perhaps the next was a white-fish, and in a mo-
ment a successful throw would transfix it, and then,
the next, it would be in the bottom of the canoe.
But it was not always plain sailing with us, for
Henry was so fierce in his thrusts at first, that, one
night, when he made sure of getting a fine bass he
saw, he overbalanced himself with a jerk, and went
in along with the spear, head over heels. The
water was not deep enough to do him any harm,
but you may be sure we did not fish any more that
night. Picking himself up, the unfortunate wight
vented his indignation on the poor fish, which, by
most extraodinary logic, he blamed for his calamity.
I couldn't for the world help laughing ; nor could
Henry himself, when he had got a little over liis
first feelings of astonishment and mortification.
The quantity offish that some can get in a night's
spearing is often wonderful. I have watched Cour-
tenay, on a night when fish were plenty, liftiiiii
them from the water almost every minute, thouoh
very few were larger than herrings, and he had
only their backs at which to aim. In some parts
of Canada there was higher game than in our
waters — the salmon-trout, which is often as largo
as our salmon, and the " maskeloiige," a corruption
e.
o-
oe.
for
one
he
/cnt
TV
\e
arm,
that
;ht
mity.
nil
cou
Id
liis
hs:
ht'
ICouv-
liftin^
lioin
had
parts
oiu'
largo
In
kptio
§ fi
'ih
n
«' *•'
1
liil
m
1 EHiKfl':!:
n^i
, !>■:
1
•
! m
1
1
'1
Is
1 li-i'i.H
1
1
t''' , ;
i
1
■'>).'
i 'i-"
'i i
*
r
4 ';
i
u
1
ii
II :'
i'^^
■
-
f
f
'•
i
^
' ■"'
ol
ki
bo
of
is 1
IlK
the
1
and
hott
quel
comi
from
Were
ever
had
aim
violer
temp
so wee
calve-s
Tiler
both i
in tiie
til ere
'uive St
the w(
Wealth
murmu
OS
•e
ii
Canadian Tlimider storms.
97
of tlie French words " masque " and " longue," a
kind of pike with a projecting snout, wlience its
name — offering a prize of which we could not
boast. It must be hard work to get such prey out
of the water, but the harder it is the more exciting
is the sport for those Avho are strong enough. The
Indians in some districts live to a great extent on
the fish they get in this way.
I had almost forgotten to speak of the thunder
and lightning which broke on the sultriness of our
hottest summer weather. Rain is much less fre-
quent in Canada than in Britain, but when it does
come, it often comes in earnest. It used to rebound
from the ground for inclies, and a very few minutes
were sufficient to make small torrents run down
every slope in the ground. When we afterwards
had a garden in front of the house, we found it was
almost impossible to keep the soil on it from the
violence of the rains. Indeed, we gave up the at-
tempt, on finding every thing we tried fail, and
sowed it all with grass, to the great delight of the
calves, to whom it was made over as a nursery.
There is music, no doubt, in the sound of rain,
both in the light patter of a summer shower, and
in the big drops that dance on the ground ; but
there are differences in this as in other kinds. I
have stood sometimes below the green branches in
the woods, when a thin cloud was dropping its
wealth on them, and have been charmed by the
mm'mur. But the heavy rain that came most
■;" I-
"il
III.
; if;
i; ^:
Canadian- TImnder storms.
frequently in the liot weather, falh'ng as if tlirouf^li
some vast cullender, was more solemn, and lilled
you with something like awe. It was often ac-
companied by thunder and lightning, such as those
who live in cooler climates seldom hear or see.
The amount of the electricity in the atmosphere of
any country depends very much on the lieat of the
weather. Captain Grayhame, who had command-
ed a frigate on the East India station, told me once,
when on a short visit, that, in the Straits of Ma-
lacca, he had to order the sails to be furled every
day at one o'clock, a thunderstorm coming on regu-
larly at that hour, accompanied with wind so terri-
ble, that the canvas of the ship would often have
been torn into ribbons, and knotted into hard lumps,
if he had not done so. Thunderstorms are not so
exact nor so frequent in Canada, but they came too
often in some years for my taste. I was startled
out of my sleep one night by a peal that must have
burst within a few yards of the house, the noise
exceeding any thing I ever heard before or since.
You don't know what thunder is till a cloud is fired
that way at your ear. Our poor dog Yorick,
which we liad brought from England with us, was
so terrified at the violence of the storms that broke
over us once and again, that he used to jump in
through any open window, if the door were shut,
and hide himself under the bed till all was quiet.
He lost his life at last, poor brute, through his ter-
ror at thunder, for one day when it had come on,
'I
Canadian Thunder storms.
99
the windows and doors happening to bo closed, lie
nislu'il into tlie woods in his mortal i'ear, and com-
ing on the shanty of a settler, flew in and secreted
hiniselt' below his accustomed shelter, the bed.
The owner of the house, not knowing the facts of
the case, naturally enough took it for granted that
the dog was mad, and forthwith put an end to his
troubles by shooting him. It was a great grief to
us all to lose so kind and intelligent a creature, but
we could hardly blame his destroyer.
There is a wonderful sublimity sometimes in the
darkness and solemn hush of nature that jioes before
one of these storms. It seems as if the pulse of all
things were stopped. The leaves tremble, though
tlicre is not a breath of wind ; the birds either hide
in the forest, or fly low in terror ; the waters look
black, and are ruffled over all their surface. It
seems as if all things around knew of the impend-
ing terrors. I never was more awed in my life, I
think, than at the sight of the heavens and the
accoini)anying suspense of nature one afternoon, in
the first summer we were on the river. The
tempest had not burst, but it lay in the bosom of
portentous clouds, of a strange, unearthly look and
color, that came down to within a very short dis-
tance of the earth. Not a sound broke the awful
silence ; the wind, as well as all tilings else, was still,
and yet the storm-clouds moved steadily to the south,
apparently only a very few yards higher than the
trees. The darkness was like that of an eclipse,
■■■ t H
m
iOO
Canadian Thunderstorms.
• ih
hi
I
and no one could have said at what instant the
j)rison of tlic H^htnings and thunders would rend
above him and envelope him in its liorrors. I
jould not, dared not stir, but stood wliere I was till
die great gray masses, through which it seemed Jis
if I could see the shinnner of the aerial fires, liad
mailed slowly over to the other side of tlie river,
and the light, in part, returned.
The liiihtnino; used to leave curious traces of its
visits in its effects on isolated trees all round.
There was a huge pine in a field at the back of the
house that had been its sport more than once. The
great top had b(*en torn off, and the tinink was split
into ribbons, which hunjx far down the sides.
Many others, which I have seen in different parts,
had been ploughed into deep furrows almost from
top to bottom. The telegraph-posts, since they
have been erected, have been an especial attraction.
I have seen fully a dozen of them in one long stretch
split uj>, and torn spirally, through their w^holc
length, by a flasli which had struck the wire and
run along it. That more people are not killed by
it seems wonderful ; yet there are many accidents
of this kind, after all. In the first or second year
of our settlement, a widow lady, living a few miles
up the river, was found dead in her bed, killed in a
storm, and we afterwards heard of sevei'al others
perishing in the same way.
Hail often accompanies thunder and lightning in
Canada, and the pieces are sometimes of a size that
I
Our Gloriouf Avtumns.
101
«V ?»^<'.''
lets one sympatliize witli tlie Egyptians when Mo-
ses sent down a similar visitation on tbem. I re-
member reading of a hailstorm on the llJnck Sea in
the midst of hot weatlier, the j^ieces in wlii.'h were,
some of them, a pound weiglit, threatening de.^th to
any one they might strike. I n'jver saw tliem such
a size in Canathi, hut used to think tliat it was bad
enough to have tliem an incli and a half long. They
must be formed by a cloud being whirled up, by
some current in the air, to such a height as freezes
its contents, even in the heat of summer.
The weather in the fall was dehVhtful — better,
I think, than in any other season of the y^ar. Get-
ting its name from the bemnnino; of the f.\ll of tb«
leaves, this season lasts on till winter pushes it asidcs
Day after day was bright and almost cloudlws, an^^
the heat had passed into a balmy mildness, whici
made the very feeling of being alive a plcasur*
Every thing combined to make the landscape bear
tiful. The great resplendent river, flowing so soft
ly it seemed scarce to move — its bosom a broac
sheet of molten silver, on which clouds, and sky,
and white sails, and even the further banks, with
die houses, and fields, and woods, far back from
the water, were painted as in a magic mirror — was
i^ beautiful sight, of which w^e never tired ; like the
swans in St. Mary's Loch, which, Wordsworth says,
" float double, swan and shadow," we had ships in
as well as on the waters ; and not a branch, nor
twig, nor leaf of the great trees, nor of the bushes,
ci^ it ,
to*
9m
ill,
i f i-
I u
ft
102
Our Glorious Autumns,
: \
nor a touch in the open landscape, was wanting,
as we jKitldlc'd alon
m.
Ifi'l
-*•
Jl|^ Mil
S i
IF i : ,i. '
til*
118
Deer-shootinff.
other. Tlic fact was timt they were raw liaiids, and
needed some trainin*;^, and had liad to sutter the
usual penalty of over-confidence, in rea})ing only
disaj)pointmcnt. They felt this indeed so much,
that it was some time before they would venture
out alone ao;ain, preferring to accompany an old
hunter. who lived near us, until they lyid caught
the art from him. Henry went out with an Indian,
also, once, and thus gradually became able to man-
age by himself. He had the honor of killing the
first deer, and setting up the trophy of its horns.
He had walked for liours, thinking every little while
lie saw something through the trees, but had been
disappointed, until, towards midday, when, at last,
he came upon a couple browsing on the tender tips
of the brush, at a long distance from him. Then
came the hardest part of the day's work, to get
Avithin shot of them without Icttino; them hear or
smell him. He had to dodge from tree to tree, and
would look out every minute to see if they were
still there. Sove al times the buck pricked its ears,
and looked al' round it, as if about to run off, mak-
ing him almost hold his breath with anxiety lest it
should do so ; but, at last, he got near enough, and
taking a good aim at it from behind a tree, drew the
trigger. A spring forward, and a visible moment-
ary quiver, showed that he had hit it ; but it did not
immediately fall, but ran off with the other through
the woods. Instantly dasning out to the spot where
it had stood, Henry followed its track, aided by the
iHMki
Deer-shootinj.
119
blood wliich every liere and tlieie lay on the snow.
He thouulit at fii-st he would come up with it in a
few hundred yards, but it led him a lon^; weary
chase orn^'arly two mile>' before he vse, I may say, is the Canadian word
for the tender twigs of trees, which are so much
liked by the oxen and cows, and even by the
horses, that we used to cut down a number of trees,
and leave them with the branches on them, for the
benefit of our four-footed retainers. On seeing so
It
M
Deer-shooting.
121
grand a chance of bagging two deer at a sliot, Rob-
ert ruslied in for his rifle at once, but before he
had got it loaded, although he flustered through
the process with incredible haste, and had us all
running to bring him powder, ball, and wadding,
the prey had scented danger, and were gone.
We had quite an excitement one day by the cry
that a staij was svvimmino; across the river. On
looking up the stream, there he was, sure enough,
with his noble horns and his head out of the water,
doing his best to reach the opposite shore. In a
few minutes we saw John Courtenay and his boys
paddling off in hot haste, in their canoe, in pursuit.
Every stroke flashed in the light, and the little
craft skimmed the calm water like an arrow.
They were soon very close to the great creature,
which flew faster than ever, and then a bullet from
Courtenay's rifle ended the chase in a moment.
The stag was inst' atly seized to prevent its sink-
ing, and drr^;^* : <~'ff to the shore by a rope tied
round its antlers.
Some pL'jpIe are cruel enough to kill deer in the
spring, whea their young are with tLc.^i, and even
to kill the young themselves, though they are
worth very little svhen got. One of the neighbors
one day wounded a fawn which v^as following its
mother, and as usual ran \\x> to secure and kill it.
But to his astonishment, the mateinal affection of
the doe had so overcome it timidity, that, instead
of fleeing the moment it -^ car'.^ the shot, it would
11
1 ' ?
122
Useless Cruelty,
I Ml-
''Hi
: i
" 1
|!
.Jl;
W f
■ ilfci
not leave its poor bleeding young one, but turned
on him, and made such vigorous rushes towards
him, again and again, that it was only by making
all kinds of noise he could frighten her far enough
back to let him get hold of the fawn at last. I
wish that instead of merely ninning at him, the lov-
ing-hearted creature had given him a good hard
butt with her head ; it would have served him right
for such cruelty. Taking away Hfe is only Jnstiiia-
ble, I think, when there is some other ".vl than
mere amusement in view. To find happin( ?s in
destroying that of other hving beings is a very un-
worthy enjoyment, when one comes to think of it.
To go out, as I have seen both men and boys do,
to shoot the sweet little singing birds in the hedges,
or the lark when he is fluttering down, after having
filled the air with music, or the slow-flying seagulls,
as they sail heavily near the shore, can only give u
pleasure so long as those who indulge in it do not
reflect on its cruelty. I remember, when a boy.
being often very much struck with this, but, more
especially, once, when a boy shot a male thrush, f>s
it was bringing home a little worm for its young
ones, which would very likely die when their father
was killed ; and, once, when a man shot a seagull,
which fell far out on the water, from which it
would often try in vain to rise, but where it woui ^
have to float, hejpless and in pain, till released bv
death.
Continued persecution, by 'dvery one, at all sea-
Useless Cruelty,
123
ills,
re u
not
)oy,
lore
IT
sons, has nearly banished the deer from all the set-
tled parts of Canada, for years back. There are
game laws now, however, fixing a time, within
which, to destroy them is. punishable, and it is to
be hoped they may do some good. But the rifle is
of use only for amusement in all the older districts,
and if you want to get sport like that of old times,
you must go to the frontier townships, where every
thing is yet almost in a state of nature.
The Indians were harder on every kind of game,
and still are so, than even the white settlers.
They have long ago laid aside the bow and arrow
of their ancestors, in eveiy part of Canada, and
availed themselves of the more deadly power of
firearms. As they have nothing whatever to do,
most of their time, and as the flesh of deer is, at
once, food, and a means of getting other things, by
bartering it for them, and as it suits their natural
taste, they used to be, and still are, hunters by pro-
tession. One Indian and his son, who had built
their wigwam on our lot, in the first years of our
settlement, killed in one winter, in about three
weeks, no fewer than forty deer, but they spoiled
every thing for the rest of the season, as those that
escaped them became so terrified that they fled to
some other part.
The species of deer common in Canada is the
Virginian, and, though not so large as some others,
their long, open ears, and graceful tails — longer
than those of some other kinds, and inclining to be
Ijlpf*'
■^^
1:.
Si]
r
'jifii
f, .,
1
\l
11
1 ;!'
IlL
Ma
124
Shedding of the Stages Horns.
bushy — give them a very attractive appearance.
The most curious thing about them, as about other
deer, was tlie growth and casting of the stags' horns.
It is not till the spring of the second year that the
first ])air begin to make their appearance, the first
siiiii of their cominjj beinii- ire now budding ; fo:,.' on these spots are
the footo.ulks from which they are to spring, and
the arteries are beginning to deposit on them,
particle by particle, with great rapidity, the bony
matter of which the horns are composed. As the
antlers grow, the skin still stretches over them, and
continues to do so, till they have reached their full
size, and have become quite hard and solid, and
forms a beautiful velvet covering, which is, in reality,
underneath, nothing but a great tissue of blood-
vessels for supplying the necessary circulation.
The arteries which run up from the head, through
it, are, meanwliile, so large, that they make furrows
on the soft horns underneath ; and it is these that
leave the deeper marks on the horns when hard.
When the antlers are full-grown, they look very
curious while the velvet is still over them, and are
so tender that the deer can, as yet, make no use of
them. It must therefore be removed, but not too
suddenly, lest the quantity of blood flowing through
such an extent of skin should be turned to the
brain or some internal organ, and death be the
result. Danger is prevented, and the end at the
Shedding of the Stag's Horns.
125
;
same time accomplished, by a rougli ring of bone
being now deposited round the base of the horns
where they join the footstalk, notches being left in
it, through which the arteries still pass. Gradual
ly, however, these openings are contracted by fresh
bone being formed round their edges, till at length
the arteries are compressed as by a ligature, and
the circulation effectually stopped. The velvet
now dies, for want of the vital fluid, and peels off,
the deer helping to get it off by rubbing its horns
against the trees. It was by noticing this process
of stopping the arteries in the antlers of stags, that
John Hunter, the great anatomist, first conceived
the plan of reducing the great swellings of the
arteries in human beings which are called aneurisms,
by tying them up — a mode which, in certain cases,
is found quite effectual. The highest thoughts of
genius are thus frequently only new applications of
principles and modes of operation which God has
established in the humblest orders of nature, from
the beginning of the world. Indeed they are al
ways so, for we cannot create any absolutely new
conception, but must be contented to read and apply
wisely the teachings furnished by all things around
us. When the velvet is gone, the horns are, at
last, perfect, and the stag bears them proudly,
and uses them fiercely in his battles with his rivals.
But the cutting off the arteries makes them no
longer a part of the general system of the animal.
They are, thenceforth, only held on to the foot-
11*
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Shedding of the Stages Horns.
stalks by their having grown from them, and,
hence, each spring, when a new pair begin to swell
up from beneath, the old ones are pushed off and
fall away, to make room for others. It is curious
to think that such great things as full-grown stags'
horns drop off and are renewed every year ; but so
it is. Bemnning with the single horn of the first
season, they grow so much larger each season till
th*^ seventh, when they reach their greatest size.
j3at, after all, is it any more wonderful that their
horns should grow once a year, than that our hair
should grow all the time? And is a horn any
thing more than hair stuck together ?
was comino
c
Wolves.
127
CHAPTER VII.
Wolves. — My adventure with a bear. — Courtenay's cow and the
wolves. — A fright in the woods by night. — The river freezes. —
Our winter fires. — Cold, cold, cold! — A winter's journey. —
Sleighing. — Winter inufflings. — Accidents through intense cold.
THE wolves used to favor us by howling at
nights, close at hand, till the sound made one
miserable. We had five sheep destroyed in the
barn-yard on one of these occasions, nothing being
done to them beyond tearing the throats open and
drinking the blood. Perhaps the wolves had been
disturbed at their feast. I never heard of any one
being killed by them, but they sometimes put be-
nighted travellers in danger. One night, Henry
was coming home from a neighbor's, in the bright
moonlight, and had almost reached our clearing,
when, to his horror, he heard the cry of some
wolves behind him, and, feehng sure they wished
to make their supper at his expense, he made off,
with the fastest heels he could, to a tree that stood
by itself, and was easily chmbed. Into this he got
just in time to save himself, for the wolves were
already at the foot of it, when he had made good
his seat across a bough. The night was fearfully
cold, and he must soon have frozen to death had
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Wolves.
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lit' not, pi'ovi(k'ntially, been so near the house.
As it was, liis loud wliistling for the clogs, and liis
shouts, were, fortunatt'ly, lieard, and some of us
sallyinu; out, lie was delivered from liis perilous
position. \\^)l\es are much scarcer now, however,
1 am tliMiikf'ul to say, owing in part, no doubt, to
a leward of two sovereigns wliich is offered by
(government for every head brought in. In the
regions north of C'anada they seem to abound, and
even on the shores of the Arctic Ocean they are
found in great numbers. Sir John Franklin, in
one of his earlier journeys, often came upon the
remains of deer which had been hemmed in by
them and di'iven over precipices. " Whilst the
deer are quietly grazing," says he " the wolves
assemble in great numbers, and, forming a deep
crescent, creep slowly towards the herd, so as not
to alarm them much at first ; but when they per-
ceive that they have fairly hemmed in the unsus-
pecting creatures, and cut off their retreat across the
plain, they move more quickly, and with hideous
yells terrify their prey, and urge them to flight by
the only open way, which is toward the precipice,
appearing to know that when the herd is at full
speed it is easily driven over the cliffs, the rear-
most urging on those that are before. The wolves
then descend at leisure and feed on the mangled
carcasses."
There were some bears in the woods, but they
did not trouble us. My sister Margaret and I were
-m
Courtenai/'s Cow and the Wolves. 129
'viie only two of our family who had an adventure
with one, and that ended in a fright. It was in tlie
summer time, and we had strolled out into the
woods to amuse ourselves with picking the wild
berries, and gathering flowers. I had climbed to
the top of the upturned root of a tree, the earth on
which was tliick with fruit, and my sister was at a
short distance behind. Having just got up, I
chanced to turn round and look down, when, lo !
there stood a bear, busy at the raspberries, which he
seemed to like as much as we did. You may be
certain that the first sight of it was enough. I
sprang down in an instant, and, shouting to my
sister that there was a bear behind the tree, we
both made oft' homewards with a speed which aston-
ished even ourselves. The poor brute never ofi^ered
to disturb us, though he might have made a meal
of either of us had he chosen, for I' don't think we
could have run had we seen him really after us.
I had forgotten a story about the wolves, which
happened a year or two after our first settling.
John Courtenay had a cow which fell sick, and was
lying in the field, after night, in the winter time,
very likely without any one missino- it, or, if they
missed it, without their knowing where to find it in
the dark. The wolves, however, did not overlook
it, for, next morning, poor Cowslip was found killed
by them, and its carcass having been left, the family
not liking to use it under the circumstances, they
held high carnival over it, night after night, till the
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130 -A Fright in the Woods by Night,
bones were picked clean. This happened quite
close to the house.
But if there were not many bears and wolves to
be seen, we were not the less afraid they would
pounce on us, when, by any chance, We should hap-
j)en to be coining through the woods after dark. I
remember a young friend and myself being half-
triglitened in this way one summer evening, when
there chanced to be no moon, and we had to walk
home, tln'ough the great gloomy forest, when it was
pitch dark. Before starting, we were furnished
witli a niunber of long slips of the bark of the hicko-
ry-tree, which is very inflammable, and, having*
each lighted one, we sallied out on our journey. I
sliall never forget the wild look of every thing in the
flickering light, the circle of darkness closing in
round us at a very short distance. But on we went,
along the winding path, hither and thither, among
the trees. Suddenly an unearthly sound broke
from one side, a sort of screech, which was repeated
again and again. We took it for granted some
bear and her young ones were at hand, but where,
it seemed impossible for us to discover. How could
we run, in such darkness, over such a path, with
lights to carry ? Both of us stood still to listen.
Again came the " hoo, hoo, hoo ; " and I assure
you it sounded very loud in the still forest. But,
though terrible to me, I noticed that, when distinctly
caught, it ceased to alarm my comrade. '* It's only
a great owl up in the the trees there — what's the
The River Freezes,
131
use of being frightened ? " he broke out ; yet he
had been as much so as myself, the moment before.
However, we now made up for our panic by a
hearty laugh, and went on in quietness to the house.
Toward the end of December the river froze.
This was, in great part, caused by large blocks of
ice floating down from Lake Superior, and getting
caught on the banks, as they went past, by the ice
already formed there. For one to touch another,
was to make them adhere for the rest of the winter,
and, thus, in a very short time after it had begun,
the whole surface was as solid as a stone. We had
now to cut a hole every morning, with the axe,
through the ice, to let the cattle drink, and to get
water for the house, and cold work it was. The
cattle came do\vn themselves, but when, a year or
two afterwards, we got horses, they had to be led
twice a day. It was very often my task to take
them. Riding was out of the question, from the
steepness of the bank, and the way in which their
feet balled with the snow, so I used to sally out for
them in a thick greatcoat, with the eai-s o^
carefully tied down, to prevent frostbit. ,
• Worsted cravat round my neck, and thick mitts on
my hands. The floor of the stable was, invariably,
a sheet of ice, and over this I had to get out the two
horses, letting the one out over the icy slope at the
door, and then holding the halter till the second one
had slid past me, when, having closed the door, with
hands like the snow, from having had to loosen the
my cap
a thick
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132
Our Winter Fires,
halters, I wcMit down with them. Wlion tlie wind
wjis from the north they were white in a *"n or
two, witii tlieir breath frozen on tlieir elit and
sides, the cold niakino; it hke smoke as it left their
nostrils. Of course the// were in no hurrvi inul
would put their tails to the wind and drink a
minute, and then lift uj) their heads and look round
them at their leisure, as if it were June. By the
time thev were done, their mouths and chins were
often coated with ice, lonjr icicles hanjxini!; from the
hair all round. Riiiht grh'd was I when at last I had
them fairly back a^ain, and had knocked cit the
balls of snow Irom their shoes, to let tht tand
firm.
The cold did not last all the time, else we could
never have endured it. There would be two or
three days of hard frost, and then it would come
milder for two or three more ; but the mildest, ex-
cept when it was a thaw, in January, were very
nmch colder than any that are common in Eni:-
land, and as to the coldest, what shall I say they
were like? The sky was as blight and clear as
can be imagined, the snow crackled under foot, and
the wind, when there was any, cut the skin like a
razor. Indoors, the fire in the kitchen was enouoh
to heat a large hall in a more temperate climate.
It was never allowed to go out, the last thing at
night being to roll a huge back-log, as they called
it, into the fireplace, with handspikes, two of us
sometimes having to help to get it into its place.
Cold^ cold, cold!
133
It was simply a cut of a tree, about four fuel I«;Mg,
and of various thicknesses. Tlie two doin-irous
liaving been diawn out, and the embers heaped
close to this giant, a nund)er of thinner logs, whole
and in parts, were then laid above them, and the
fire was *' gathered " for the night. By day, what
with another huge back-log to replace the one
burned up in the niirht, and a ijreat bank of other
smaller ""sticks" in front and over it, I tliink there
was often half a cart-load blazino; at a time. In
fact, the only measure of tlie quantity was the size
of the huge chimney, for the wood cost nothing ex-
cept the trouble of cutting and bringing it to the
house. It was ijrand t(.) sit at niij;lit before the roar-
ing mountain of fire and forget the cold outside ;
but it was a friiihtful tliinji to dress in the mornino;,
in the bitter cold of the bedrooms, with the win-
dows thick with frost, and the water frozen solid at
your side. If you touched a tumbler of water with
your toothbrush it would often freeze in a moment,
and the water in the basin sometimes froze round
tlie edo;es while we were washino;. The tears would
come out of our eyes, and freeze on our cheeks as
they rolled down. The towels were regularly
frozen like a board, if they had been at all damj).
Water, brought in over night in buckets, and put
as close to the fire as possible, had to be broken
with an axe in the mornincr. The bread, for lon''*' '^
if
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140 Accidents through Intense Cold,
of it, till, next morning, I learned that, when the
match was done and the people dispersed, a boy was
seen who continued to stand still on the vacant
ground, and, on going up to him, it was found that
he had been frozen stiff, and was stone dead. A
minister once told me that he had been benighted
on a lonely road in the depth of the winter and could
get no further, and, for a time, hardly knew what
to do. At last he resolved to take out his horse,
and, after tying its 'wo fore legs together, let it
seek what it could for itself till morning, ^while he
himself commenced walking round a great tree that
was near, and continued doing so, without resting,
till the next morning. Had he sat down, he would
have fallen asleep ; and if he had slept, he would
certainly have died. My brother Henry, who, after
a time, turned to the study of medicine, and has
risen to be a professor in one of the colleges, took
me, one day, to the hospital, with him, and, turn-
ing into one of the wards, walked up to the bed
of a young man. Lifting up the bottom of the
clothes, he told me to look ; and, — what a sight !
both the feet had been frozen off at the ankle, and
the red stumps were slowly healing. A poor nian
called, once, begging, whose fingers were all gone.
He had walked some miles without gloves, and had
known nothing about how to manage frozen limbs ;
nis fingers had frozen, had been neglected, and had
mortified, till at last such as did not drop off weii
pulled out, he told me, with pincers, being utterly
I' \
Accidents through Intense Cold.
141
rotten at the joints. I know a young man, a law
student, whose fino;ers are mere bone and skin : he
was snow-balHng, and paid the penalty in the virtual
destruction of his hands. A curious case happened
some years ago, resulting in tlie recovery of two
thousand pounds of damages from the mail company.
The stage from Montreal, westward, broke through
an airhole on the St. Lawrence, when driving over
the ice, and all the passengers were immersed in the
river, one of them getting both his hands so frozen
that he lost them entirely. They were both taken
off at the wrists. The money was a poor consola-
tion for such a calamity. I have known of a gen-
tleman losing both hands by taking off his fur
gloves to get better control over a runaway horse.
He got it stopped, but his hands were lost in the
doing it.
The ice of the river used to give us abundant
room for skating, where it was smooth enough.
Near the towns every one. skates, even the ladies,
of late years, doing their best at it. But the ice,
with us, was often too rough for this graceful and
healthy exercise, so that it was less practised than
it otherwise would have been.
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142
Tlie Aurora Borealis.
CHAPTER VIII
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The aurora borealis. — " Jumpers." — Squaring timber. — Rafts. —
Camping out. — A public meeting. — Winter fashions. — My toe
frozen. — A long winter's walk. — Hospitality. — Nearly lost in
the woods.
T
HE grandeur of the aurora borealis, in the cold
weather, particularly struck us. At times the
whole heavens would be irradiated by it — shafts
of light stretching from every side to the zenith, or
clouds of brightness, of the softest rose, shooting,
from every point of the horizon, high overhead.
It was like the Hindoo legend of Indra's palace,
which Southey d?scribes so beautifully :
" Even we on earth at intervals descry
Gleams of the glory, streaky of flowing light,
Openings of Heaven, and streams that flash at night,
In fitful splendor, through the northern sky."
Curse of Kehama, vii. 72.
The fondness of almost every one for sleigh-rid-
ing was ludicrously shown in the contrivances in-
vented in some cases to get the enjoyment of the
luxury. The richer settlers, of course, had very
comfortable vehicles, with nice light runners, and
abundance of skins of various kinds, to adorn them,
" Jkmj9er«."
143
and make them warm ; but every one was not so
fortunate, and yet all were determined that ride
they would. "Have you anything to go in?"
I have heard asked, once and again, with the an-
swer, " No, but I guess we can lig up a jumper
pretty soon." This "jumper," when it made its
appearance, if it were of the most primitive type,
consisted simply of two long. poles, with the bark
on them, the one end to drag on the ground, and
the other to serve for shafts for the horse ; a cross-
bar here and there behind, let into them through
auger-holes, serving to keep them together.' An
old box, fixed on roughly above, served for a body
to the carriage ; and, then, off they went, scraping
along the snow in a wonderful way. Instead of
buffalo-robes, if they had none, a colored bed-quilt,
wrapped round them, served to keep them warm.
An old wood-sleigh, with a box on it, was some-
thing more aristocratic ; but any thing that would
merely hold them was made to pass muster. With
plenty of trees at hand, and an axe and auger, a
backwoodsman never thinks himself unprovided
while the snow continues.
It is in the winter that the great work of cutting
and squaring timber, in the forests, for export to
Europe, is done. Millions of acres, covered with
the noblest trees, invite the industry of the wealthier
merchants by the promise of liberal profit, along
the whole edge of Canada, toward the. north, from
the Ottawa to Lake Huron. What the quantity of
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144
Squaring Timhcr.
timber this vast region contains must be, may be
estimated in some measure from the report of tlie
Crown Land Commissioner, a few years since,
whicii says, that in the (Jttawa district akme, there
is enough to answer every demand for the next six
hundred years, if tliey continue felhng it at tlie
present rate. There is no fear, assuredly, of wood
running short in Canada for many a day. The
rafts brouglit down from Lake Huron alone are
wonderful — thousands on thousands of immense
trees, squared so as to lie closely together, each
long enough, ap})arently, to be a mast for a large
vessel. I have looked over ther wilderness of the
forest from two points — the one, the limestone
ridije that runs from Niagara northward — the
other, from the top of the sand-hills on the edge of
Lake Huron — and no words can tell the solemn
grandeur of the prospect in either case. Far as
the eye could reach there was nothing to be seen
but woods — woods — woods — a great sea of ver-
dure, with a billowy roll, as the trees varied in
height, or the lights and shadows played on them.
It is said that the open desert impresses the travel-
ler with a sense of its sublimity that is almost over-
powering — the awful loneliness, the vast, naked,
and apparently boundless sweep of the horizon on
every side, relieved by no life or motion, or even
variety of outline, subduing all alike. But I ques-
tion if the sight of an American forest be not equally
sublime. The veil cast by the trees over the land
Sqtiarin^j Timber.
own unprofa„ed retreat^- t|.^^^ """"'^ '" '"-"•
year after year, for agef he ^ '' " "'"} ''"""^'
prompted b, such .> at .;„ , 'j?'"' °^ '"^-'-y
»''aJe;" the sense of vast « '' ""'""'-^'^y of
"'0"gl.t that the cirJe 7 • '"?''"™'''« '™"' 'he
overpowers you, sweepson r' T"""' "'"■^■'' ^°
boundless rc..io ,s l^H^' "' ^l?' S"""'^'"'-' o^er
«>'the«;nd^iLvv andT T"' '"'"-"• '^'""S'''^
The district i„ 2kh l^ r'^''
Upper Ottawa, wher^va. tic T""' "' "" ""
trees are leased from Onv 1"'" ^'"1 °'1'«
'■" Quebec, MontreJ f ?'^™™'="' ^7 merchant.
f o™,reg;on?rr;i:tTt:b '-'• *-«
from Kingston and oS , ^''"'^'"'"^ set out
-•'h them^ their IS?"' '"• " """*""' ""^'"S
*e.,- andbuildin"";,; l^r^ -"■ ?«*- Acur!
-•^-oughhuts,to°livf,^'tou:htrT'"-'''''^
-as soon as they reach 1" • " "« ''■"""•
«'-ere as the cold TL ^ '""'• ^'"^"^^ly
f-pingatnightswit'h'tfrtr-forit^
lougliing " it by dav n, J ll '" *"'"' ^""i
"f doing in EngLd "^thev \ ''"" """''' *"*
f-andthem1.sti-g:S,ti;;i'*%'-%'-t
■^''--'-- is on,; part oftv £.f^\,^^
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146
Rafts,
must also drag them, over the snow, to the river,
by oxen, ^and join them into rafts after getting them
to it. To form these, a hirge number of logs are
laid closely, side by side, and lashed togetlier by
long, thin, supple rods, tied round pins driven into
them, and further secured by transverse poles pin-
ned down on them ; and they are then floated as
rafts toward the St. Lawrence, which they grad-
ually reach, after passing, by means of contrivances
called *' slides," over the rough ])laces, where the
channel is broken into rapids. As they go down,
poling or sailing, or shooting the slides, their course
is enlivened by the songs and shouts of the crew,
and very exciting it is to see and hear them. Once
in the broad, smooth water, several smaller rafts
are often joined together, and every thing carefully
prepared for finally setting out for the lower ports.
Even from their starting, they are often rigged out
with short masts and sails, and houses are built on
them, in which the crew take up their abode dur-
ing the voyage. When they are larger, quite a
number of sails are raised, so that they form very
striking objects, when slowly gliding dow .1 the nv er,
a rude steering-apparatus behinc ang the ist
construction.*
It is wonderful how men stand the c Kposure of
the winter in the forests as they do. Indeed, a fine
* On the upper lakes, the crew often take their mves and
children, with their poultry, etc., on the rafts with them.
Caniting out. , ..
young toll,„v, a fricMuI of mine , .
•'-' 1- liked „,„|„„. bet ;,!, r'"^'"''' '"''' •"«
■•"'"■-'■^t tl,c. snows „,-,,/ I ',"'"' " ™'"P ""' "
"'••'"••^ "■"' "- g » h fd ; "'^''"' "■" ""-" «1"-"'^'
>"i.s.sion of the ;« -k of ?'" '"'•^"' '■"• i««'°
s"m,to travel some dis anoo ! ' '"^ "'■™-
»•"•'. '-yond tl.esettl d „., t of | ""'"""""^ «>«'
weresevo or e,Vd,t '^' '"'"""-' "'""try- Tl.ere
'-"^broods, wi, ^ tw :;:, t - ' "";'"<'-« t-
S"Wes, and nartl-^ to Z/ .<--"'l;l'>yed, partij as
t» wear snow-slioes tn 1- .. '''' '""■f>- '""I
;o*i.esoftsnow::;^;,- tiivr^'-"''^
•"'-'great depth; and th si f "'"">■ l''"<^'-'«.
'■"«ll,ands,isa oncev7 "f ' ^■■'■^•^'P' •» <-'xj>m-
"■»;< crossed with a it!" J; f ,w ?'"; °'' ''g'"
"'"' to«-l--eh it is stranncSr "'"'■'=''''
•'"- l-esented enabl i H J ''"'"" "'' ^"^"^^
^'•»'^- Sta tin. a ; ° ,''";"'■'';' '- -«"''' at once
;'''''<'^'^onas°;en:':;^^^^^^^^^^^
'^"^•'••.sofsomeofthem.etf,(, ' ' ""''''-'' '""'
f''-er,stepwirtfe:xr:ftr''''"''"'''^'"-
sl"«'s underneath It ,v *"' «'''''" «''ow-
l"'-'^ •''«■'■ stops in 'such a den;]," T" ""^■'"l'*"'ff to
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148
Camping out.
safe part of the ice at any moment. Meanwhile,
the sky got darker and more lowering, until, at last,
it broke into a snow-storm so heavy, that they
could hardly see one another at a few yards' dis-
tance. The wind, which was very strong, blew
directly in their faces, and howled wildly through
the trees on each side, whirling the drift in tl.uck
clouds in every direction. Still they held on as well
as they could, in moody silence, till, at last, it was
evident to all that they must give up the struggle,
and make as good an encampment as they could,
for the night, where they were. Turning aside,
therefore, into the forest, where a dark stretch of
pine-trees promised protection, they proceeded to get
ready their resting-place. With the help of their
axes, a maple was soon felled, and large pieces of
bark, from the fallen trees around, formed shovels,
by which a square spot of ground was cleared of
the snow. A fire was the next great subject of in-
terest, and this they obtained by rubbing "ome of
the fibrous bark of the white cedar to powder, and
laying over it first thin peelings of birch-bavk, and
then the bark itself, a match sufficing to set the pile
in a blaze, and the whole forest offering fuel. Pil-
ing log on log into a grand heap, the trees around
were soon lighted up with a glow that shone far aiitl
near. To protect themselves from the snow, which
was still falling, a qua itity of spruce-boughs were
next laid overhead on the rampart of snow which
had been banked up round them to the height cw'
I
A Public Meeting.
149
nearly five feet, the cold of the day being so great,
that the fierce fire, blazing close at hand, made no im-
pression on it whatever. Slices of salt pork, toasted
on a stick at the fire, having been got ready by some,
and broth, cooked in a saucepan, by others, they
now took their comfort, as best they could, in a
primitive supper, logs round the fire serving for seats.
After this came their tobacco-pipes and a long smoke,
and then each of the party lay down with his feet
to the fire, and slept, t^overed with snow, till day-
light next morning. This is the life led, week after
week, by those whose avocations call them to fre-
quent the forests during winter ; nor are the com-
forts of some of the poorer settlers in new districts,
while they live in " shanties," at their first coming,
much greater, nor their exposure much less.
A public meeting, held in the next township,
gave us an opportunity of seeing the population of
a wide district in all the variety of winter costume.
We went in a neighbor's sleigh, drawn by a couple
of rough horses, whose harness, tied here and there
with rope, and unprovided with any thing to keep
the traces from falling down, or the sleigh from
running on the horses' heels, looked a^ unsafe as
possible. But Canadian horses know how to act
under such circumstances, as if they had studied
them, and had contrived the best plan for avoiding
unpleasant results. They never ^\ alked down any
descent, but, on coming to any gully, dashed down
the icy slope at a hard gallop, and, flying across the
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150
A Public Meethig,
logs which formed a bridge at the bottom, tore up
the opposite ascent, till forced to abate their speed
by the weight of the vehicle. Then came the dri-
ver's part to urge them up the rest of the acclivity
by every form of threatening and persuasion in the
vocabulary of his craft ; and the obstacle once sur-
mounted, off we were again at a smart trot. It was
rather mild weather, however, for comfortable sleigh-
ing, the snow in deep places being little better
than slush, through whicli it was heavy and slow
work to drag us. At others, the ground was well-
nio-h bare, and then the iron-shod runners of the
sleigh gave us most unpleasant music as they grated
on the stones and gravel. As to shaking and jum-
bhng, there was enough of both, as often as we struck
on a lump of frozen snow, or some other obstruction ;
but, at last, we got to our journey's end. The vil-
lage was already thronged by numbers who had
come from all parts, for it was a political meeting,
and all Canadians are politicians. Such costumes
as some exhibited are surely to be seen nowhere
else. One man, I noticed, had a suit made of drug-
get carpeting, with a large flower on a bright-green
ground for pattern, one of the compartments of it
reaching from his collar far down his back. Blan-
ket coats of various colors, tied round the waist with
a red sash, buffalo coats, fur caps of all sizes and
shapes, moccasins, or coarse Wellington's, with the
trowser-legs tucked into them, mitts, gloves, and fur
gauntlets, added variety to the picture. Ahuost
A Public Meeting.
151
every one was smoking, at some time or other. The
sleighs were ranged, some under the shed of the
viHage tavern, others along the sides of the street,
the horses looking like nondescript' animals, from
the skins and coverlets thrown over them to protect
them from the cold. The " bar " of the tavern
was the great attraction to many, and its great blaz-
iig fire, on which a cartload of wood glowed with
exliilarating heat, to others. Every one on entering,
after desperate stamping and scraping, to get the
snow from the feet, and careful brushing of the legs
with a broom, to leave as little as possible for melt-
ing, made straight to it, holding up each foot by
turns to get it dried, as far as might be. There was
no pretence at showing deference to any one ; a la-
borer had no hesitation in taking the only vacant seat,
though his employer were left standing. " Treat-
and beinn; " treated " went on with fj-reat
mo;
spirit at the bar, mutual strangers asking each other
to drink as readily, as if they had been old friends.
Wine-glasses were not to be seen, but, instead,
tumblers were set out, and " a glass was left to mean
what any one chose to pour into them. One old
man I saw put his hand in a knowing way round
his tumbler, to hide his filling it to the brim ; but he
proved to be a confirmed and hopeless drunkard,
who had already ruined himself and his family, and
was able to get drunk only at the expense of others.
We stayed for a time to listen to the speeches,
which were dilivered from a small balcony before
pp
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152
3fi/ Toe Frozen.
the window of the tavern, but were very uninter-
esting to me, at least, though the crowd stood pa-
tiently in the snow to hear them. I confess I was
glad when our party thought they had heard
enough, and turned their sleigh homewards once
more.
I had the misfortune to get one of my great toes
frozen in the second or third winter. We were
working at the edge of the woods, repairing a fence
which had been blown down. The snow was
pretty deep, and I had been among it some hours,
and did not feel colder than usual, my feet being
every day as cold as lead, whenever I was not
moving actively about. I had had my full meas-
ure of stamping and jumping to try to keep up the
circulation, and had no suspicion of anything extra,
till, on coming home, having taken off my stock-
ings to heat myself better, to my consternation, the
great toe of my left foot was as white as wax — the
sure sign that it was frozen. Heat beino; of all
things the most dangerous in such circumstances,
I had at once to get as far as j)ossible fi'om the fire,
while some one brought me a large basin of snow,
with which I kept rubbing the })oor stiff member
for at least an hour before it came to its rii^ht hue.
But what shall I say of the jiain of returning circu-
lation ? Freezino; is nothinii, hut thawincr is ao-o-
ny. It must be dreadful indeed where the injury
has been extensive. Even to this day, not wit li-
standing all my rubbing, there is still a tender spot
.*)!<'
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Hospitality,
153
in the corner of my boot on cold days. It was a
mercy I noticed it in time, for liad I put my feet
to the fire without first thawino; it, I mio;ht have
had serious trouble, and have lost it, after great
suffering. A gentleman I knew, who got his feet
frozen in 1813, in marchinor with his reo-iment from
Halifax, in Nova Scotia, to Niagara — a wonderful
achievement in the depth of winter, through an
uninhabited wilderness buried in snow — never
perfectly recovered the use of them, and walked
lame to the day of his death.
In our early days in Canada, the sacred duty of
hospitality was observed with a delightful readiness
and freeness. A person who had not the means of
paying might have travelled from one end of the
country to another, without requiring money, and
he would everywhere have found a cheerful wel-
come. The fact was that the sio-ht of a strange
face was a positive relief from the monotony of
everyday life, and the news brought by each visitor
was felt to be as pleasant to hear, as the entertain-
ment could be for him to receive. But selfish
thoughts did not, after all, dim the beautiful open-
handedness of backwoods hospitality. No thought
of any question or doubt rose in the matter — to
come to the door was to rest for the night, and
share the best of the house. I was once on my
way westward to the St. Clair, from London, Can-
ada West, just in the interval between the freezing
of the roads and the fall of the snow. The stage
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Hospitality,
^ could not run, nor was travelling by any kind of
vehicle practicable; indeed, none could have sur-
vived the battering it would have got, had it been
broufrht out. As I could not wait doino; nothin<2;
for an indefinite time, till snow made sleigliing pos-
sible, which I was told by the stage proprietor
" mi»i;ht be a week, mioht be a fortni";ht," I deter-
mined to walk the sixty miles as best I could.
But sucli roads ! As to walking, it was impossi-
ble ; I had ratlifer to leap from one hillock of frozen
mud to another, now in the middle, now at each
side, by turns. There was a little snow, which
only made my difficulties greater, clogging the feet,
and covering up holes. For yards together, the
road had been washed away by the rains, and its
whole surface was dotted with innumerable little
frozen lakes, where the Avater had lodged in the
huge cups and craters of mud which joined each
other in one lono; network the whole way. It was
a dreadful scramble, in which daylight was abso-
lutely necessary to save broken legs. No man
could have got over it in the dark. In the early
afternoon, I reached a tavern at the roadside and
had dinner, but as I was told that there was
another, seven miles ahead, I thought I could reach
it before night, and thus get so much nearer my
journey's end. But I had reckoned beyond my
powers, and darkness fell while I was as yet far
from mv c;oal. Luckily, a little loir-house at a dis-
tance, showed itself noiir the road by the light
Hospitality.
156
through its windows. Stumbling toward it as I
best could, I told them how I was benighted, and
asked if I could get shelter till morning.
" Come in, sir," said the honest proprietor, " an'
you're welcome.'* He proved to be a decent shoe-
maker ; a young man, with a tidy young woman
for his wife ; and as I entered, he beckoned me to
be seated, while he continued at his work on an old
shoe, by the help of a candle before him.
" Bad roads," said I.
" Oh, very," answered my host. *' I never puts
any man away from my door ; nobody could get to
tlie tavern over sich roads as them. Take your
coat off, and make yourself comfortable."
I did as I was told, and chatted with the couple
about all the ordinary topics of backwoods con-
versation — the price of land — the last crops —
how long he had been there, and so on, till tea, or,
as they called it, supper ; for Canadians generally
take only three meals a day. And a right hearty
meal I made, from a display of abundance of snowy
bread, excellent butter, ham in large slices, and as
much tea as there might be water in the kettle, for
tea is the weak point in bush fare. When bedtime
came, I found there was only one bed in the house,
and could not imagine how they were to do with
me ; but this was soon solved by their dragging the
feather bed off, and bringing it out where I was,
from the inner room, and spreading it on the floor
opposite the fire. Nothing would induce them to
• ):
I" ■■ '
156
Nearly Lost in the Woods.
keep it for tlicmsclves and ^Ive me anything elsp ;
I was tlieir guest, and tliey would have ine enter-
tained as well as they could. Next morning, a fa-
mous breakfast was got ready, and I was again
made to sit down with them. But not a word
would the honest fellow hear about money. *' He
would never be the worse for giving a bed and a
meal to a traveller, and I was very welcome." So
I had to thank them very sincerely and bid them
good-day, with their consciousness of having done a
kindness as their only reward. On this second
day's journey, I had the most awkward mishap that
ever befell me in tlie woods. I was all but lost in
them, and that just as the sun was about to set.
The roads were so frightful that I could liardly get
on, and hence, when the landlord of one of the
wayside taverns told me I would save some miles
by cutting through the bush at a point he indi-
cated, I was very glad to follow his advice. But
trees are all very much alike, and by the time I
got to where he told me to leave the road, I must
have become confused ; for when I did leave it, not
a sign of any track showed itself, far or near. I
thought I could find it, however, and pushed on,
as I fancied, in the direction that had been pointed
out to me. But, still, no road made its appear-
ance, and, finally, in turning round to look for it, I
forgot which way to set myself, on again starting.
In fact I was lost, fairly lost. I had got into a
wide cedar-swamp, the water in which was only
Nearly Lost in the Woods.
f;7
157
sliglitly frozen, so that I liad to leap from tlie root
of one tree to that of another. Not a sound was to
be heard, i.or a Hving creature to be seen. Only
trees, trees, trees, black and unearthly in the les-
sening light. I hardly knew what to do. If
forced to stay there all night, I might — indeed, I
would likely — be frozen to death: but how to get
out? That I ultimately did, I know, but by no
wisdom of mine. There was absolutely nothing
to guide me. My deliverance was the merciful re-
sult of having by chance struck a slight track,
which I forthwith followed, emerging at last, not,
as I had hoped, some miles ahead, but a long way
behind where I had entered.
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Visitors,
CHAPTER IX.
6 '1
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Involuntary racing. — A backwoods' parsonage. — Graves In the
wilclorness. — Notions of equality. — Arctic winters. — iiuflcd
grouse. — Indian lishing in winter. — A marriage. — C ur winter's
pork.
AMONG our occasional visitors, we liad, one
year, at one time, no fewer tlian three minis-
ters, who chanced to be on some Home Missionary
Society business in our quarter, and very nice com-
pany they were. Some of their stories of the ad-
ventures that befel them in their journeys amused
us greatly. One was a Stout, hearty Irishman, the
two others Englishmen ; and what with the excite-
ment of fresh scenes every day, and the healthy
open air, of which they,liad perhaps too much, they
were all in high spirits. At one part they had
crossed a tract of very rolling land, where the road
was all up one slope and down another, and this,
as every thing happened at the time to be one great
sheet of ice, was no pleasant variety to their enjoy-
ments. There was too little snow for sleighing, and
yet, to ride down these treacherous descents in a
wheeled conveyance, was impossible. At the top
of an extra long one they had therefore determined,
Involuntary liacing.
159
not only to get out, but to take tlie horses out, one
of tliem leading them clown, while the other two
brought down the vehicle. It was a large, double-
seated affair, with four wheels, and a pole for two
horses ; and it was thought that the best plan to
to get it down safely was for one of the two to go
to the tongue of the pole in front, while the other
held back behind. Every tiling thus arranged, at a
given signal the first movement over the edge of
the slope was made, and all went well enough for a
few steps. But the worthy man behind soon felt
that he had no power whatever, with such slippery
footing, to retard the quickening speed of the wheels,
while the stout Irishman, who chanced to be at the
front, felt, no less surely, that he could neither let
his pole go, nor keep it from driving him forward
at a rate to which he was wholly unaccustomed.
" Stop it. Brooks — I'll be killed ! — it'll be over
me ! " "I can't stop it," passed and repassed in a
moment, and, at last, poor Mr. Brook's feet having
gone from under him, the whole affair was consigned
to his Irish friend, whom the increasing momentum
of his charge was makino; fly down the hill at a
most unclerical rate. " I'll be killed ! I'm sure
it'll be over me ! " was heard to rise from him as he
dashed away into the hollow beneath. His two
friends not only could do nothing to help him, but
could not move for laughing, mixed with anxiety,
till at last the sufferer managed to find rehef when
he had been carried a considerable way up the next
slope.
7, m^
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160
A Backivoods' Parsonage.
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One of the three wore a contrivance over his fur
cap in tnivellino;, which, so far as I liavo noticed,
was unique. It w^s made of hrown l^cilin wool,
niurli in tlie sli.ipe of one of tlie lu-Iincts of the
Kniglits Templars, in the Temple C'lmrcli.the only
openin <^
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166
A Marriage.
either of tliem sliould have thought of marrying in
such a state of poverty as was common to both, was
a thing to be thouglit of only in Canacki. Tlie
bridegroom's wealth was, I believe, limited to some
twenty pounds, and the bride brought for her ])or-
tion fifty acres of land and some stock, which a
relative gave her as a dowry. But money she
had none, and even the shoes in which she went to
be married, as I afterwards learned, had been bor-
rowed from a married sister. Their future home
was simply a dilapidated log-house, which stood
with its gable to the roadside, perhaps eight feet by
eighteen, forming two apartments, an addition,
which had once been intended to be made, so as to
join the end next the road at right angles, but re-
mained unfinished, being shut off by a door of thin
deal, which, alone, kept the wind out at that cor-
i!er. We crossed the ice to the American side to
have the ceremony performed, after which there
was a grand dinner, with true Canadian abundance,
in her patron's house, in which, up to that time,
she had had her home. Their own shanty not
being as yet habitable, the young cou})le remained
there till it was repaired, so as to let them move to
it. But no money could be spent on the mansion ;
whatover was to be done had to be «k>ne by the
kind aid of amateurs, if anv Canadians deserve that
name, what '^ t' - niny have to undertake.
The chimney had t" rebuilt of mud, the walls
caulked and filled up with mud, some panes of glass
Primitive Furniture.
167
put in the two little windows, a wooden latch to be
fitted to tiie thin deal that formed the outer door,
and the wliole had to be whitewashed, after which
all was pronounced ready. The furniture was as
primitive as the house. A few dishes on a rude
shelf, a pot or two, a few wooden chairs and a table,
set otf the one end ; while, in the other, an apology
for a carpet, and a few better things — the faint
traces of richer days in their father's houses —
made up their parlor ; a wooden bench on the one
side, ingeniously disguised as a sofa, reminding you
of the couplet in Goldsmith's description of the
village ale-house, where was seen
" The chest, contrived a double debt to pay —
A bed by uight, a chest of drawers by day."
The produce of the fifty acres, which were most-
ly cleared, but which, having been the farm of an
old French settler, were wellnigh worn out for a
time, and had wretched fences, was to be the sup-
port of the young housekeepers, though, less than a
year before, the husband had been a student in one
of the universities in Scotland. To have seen him
when fairly installed in his agricultural honors, in a
wretched straw hat, blue shirt, cotton trowsers, and
heavy coarse boots, with a long blue beech rod in
his hand, shouting to his oxen, it would hardly have
occurred to an old countrvman that he was any
thing but a laborer. I am thankful to say, ho \v-
. I
168
Our Winter's Pork.
ever, that he uhimately escaped from the misery in
which his imprudent marriage threatened to involve
him, by getting into a pretty good mercantile situa-
tion, in which, I hope, he is now comfortably
settled. I should have said, that, having no money
with which to hire labor, all the work on his farm
had to be done by his own hands, without any aid.
The trifle he had at first, melted like snow, the two
having set out with it to make a wedding-trip, in a
sleigh to a town seventy miles off, from which they
returned with little but the empty purse.
A little before Christmas a great time came on —
the high solemnity of the annual pig-killing for the
winter. It was bad enough for the poor swine, no
doubt, but the human details were, in some respects,
sufficiently ludicrous. The first year we got a
man to do the killing, and a woman to manage the
rest ; and, between them, with a razor-blade fixed
hito a piece of wood for a scraper, they won our
admiration by their skill. I mention it only for an
illustration it afforded of the misery to which the
poor Indians are often reduced in the winter. A
band of them made their appearance almost as soon
as we had begun, and hung round, for the sake of
the entrails and other offal, till all was over. Of
course we gave them good pieces, but they were
hungry enough to have needed the whole, could we
have spared it. As soon as any thing was thrown
aside, there was a scramble of both men and women
for it. Each, as soon as he had secured his share,
;.f ft
Snffemijs of the Indians.
169
twisted it round any piece of stick tliat lay near,
and, after thrusting it tor a minute into the fire,
where the water was heating for scalding the pigs,
devoured it greedily, filtiiy and hKithsonie as it was.
They must often be in great want in the cold
weather, when game is scarce. I was coming froni
the bush one morning, when I saw an Indian tug-
ging with all his might at something that lay in the
middle of the road. On nearer approach, it proved
to be one of our pigs, which had died of some disease
during the night. The poor fellow had put his
foot on its side, and was pulling with all his strength
at the hind-leg to try to tear off the ham, but a
pig's skin is very tough, and though he pulled at it
till he liad crossed and recrossed the road several
times, he had to give up the battle at last, and leave
it as he found it. A friend of mine who was lost
in the woods for several days, and, in the end, owed
his deliverance to his falling in with a few wigwams,
told me that the Indians informed him that they
were sometimes for three days together without
food.
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Our Neicjhhon,
CHAPTER X.
Oup neighbors. — Insect plagues. — Military officers' families in the
bush. — An awkward mistake. — Dr. D nearly shot for a
bear. — !Major M . — Our candles. — Fortunate escape from a
fatal accident.
WE used to liave dell«^litful evenings sometimes,
when nein-liborino; settlers came to our house,
or wlien we went to their houses. Scanty though
the popuhition was, we had liglited on a section of
the country which had attracted a number of edu-
cated and intelhgent men, who, with their fumihes,
made capital society. Down the river we had
Captain G , but he was little respected by rea-
son of his irregular habits, which, however, might
be partly accounted for by the effect on his brain
of a fierce slash on the head which he had got at
the storming of Ciudad Rodrigo. Then, above us,
we had, about three miles off, Mr. R , an Eng-
lish gentlenian-ftirmer, who had found his way to
the backwoods, after losing much money from one
cause or another. He was one of the church-
wardens, and leader of the choir in the Episcopal
chapel, as it was called, for there is no church es-
tablishment in Canada ; a man, moreover, of much
general information, a good shot, and, what was
Insect Pla(juc8.
171
' }
better, a fjood Clirlstian. He liad always plenty
of fresh London newspapers of the stiff Tory class,
hut acceptahle to all alike in such a place as St.
Clair. His house was at the foot of a stcej) bank,
and as there were only liimself and Mrs. R
to occu])y it, its size was not so strikino; as its neat-
ness. A broad verandah ran alono; the side of it
next the river, its green color contrasting veiy
ph.'asantly with the whiteness of the logs of the
house. There were three a])artments within ; one
a sitting-room, the other two bedrooms, one of
which was always at the disposal of a visitor. Over
the mantelpiece hung a gun and a rifle, and on it
stood, as its special ornament, a silver cup given by
one of the English Cabinet Ministers as the prize
in a shooting-match in B shire, and won by Mr.
R . There was only one drawback to a visit
to him, at least in summer, and that was the cer-
tainty of your getting more than you bargained for
in the insect way when you went into the barn to
put up your horse. Fleas are wondeifully plentiful
throughout Canada, but some parts are worse than
others. A sandy soil seemed to breed them, as the
mud of the Nile was once thought to breed worms,
and Mr. R 's barn stood on a spot which the
fleas themselves mig-ht have selected as a favorable
site for a colony. Under the shelter of his sheds
they multiplied to a wonderful extent. So incura-
ble was the evil that it had come to be thought only
a source of merriment.
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172
Insect Plagues.
" Ah, you've been at tlie barn, have you ? lia,
ha!" was all the pity you could get for any remark
on the plentifulness of insect life in these quarters.
"It isn't half so bad," he added one day, "as the
preacher over the river, who sat down at the door-
step of the chapel to look over his notes before ser-
vice, and had hardly got into the pulpit before he
found that a whole swarm of ants had got up his
trousers. You may think how his hands went
below the bookboard on each side of him, but it
wouldn't do. He had to tell the cono-reo-ation that
he felt suddenly indisposed, and would be back in
a few moments, which he took advantage of to turn
the infested garment inside out behind the chapel,
and after having freed them of his tormentors, went
up to his post again, and got through in peace."
" I don't think he was much worse off," struck in
a friend, " than the ladies are with the grasshoppers.
The horrid creatures, with their great hooky legs,
and their jumping six feet at a time, make dreadful
work when they take a notion of springing, just as
folks are passing over them. I've seen them myself,
through a thin muslin dress, making their way hither
and thither in service-time, and there they must
stay till all is over."
But I am foro;ettinor the list of our river friends.
There were, besides Mr. B , four or five miles
above us, Captain W , who had been flag-lieu-
tenant of a frigate off St. Helena, while Bonaparte
was a captive there, and had managed to preserve
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Officers^ Families in the Bush.
173
a lock of his soft, Ho;ht brown liair; and Mr. L ,
brother of one of our most eminent English judges,
and himseH' once a midsliijjman under Caj)tain
Marryatt ; and P()st-Caj)tain V and the clergy-
man — the furthest only ten miles off. There were,
of course, plenty of others, but they were of a very
dilferent class — French Canadians, ajiricultural
laborers turned fanners, and the like, with very little
to attract in their society.
The number of genteel families who had betaken
themselves to Canada, was, in those days, astonish-
ing. The fact of the Governors being then mostly
military men, who offered inducements to their old
companions in arms who had not risen so high in
rank as they, led to crowds of that class burying
themselves in the woods all over the province. I
dare say they did well enough in a few instances,
but in very many cases the experiment only brought
misery upon themselves and their families. Brought
up in ease, and unaccustomed to work with their
hands, it was not to be expected that they could
readily turn mere laborers, which, to be a farmer
in Canada, is absolutely necessary I was once
benighted about forty miles from home, and found
shelter for tho night in a log-house on the roadside,
where I shared a bed on the floor with two laborers,
the man of the house and his wife sleeping at the
other end of the room. After breakfast the next
morning, in grand style, with cakes, "apple sauce"
in platefuls, bread white as snow, meat, butter,
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Officers' Families in the Bash,
■
cream, cheese, fritters, and colorless green tea of
the very worse description, I asked them if they
could get any conveyance to take me home, as the
roads were very heavy for travelling on foot, from
the depth of the snow, and its slipperinpss in the
beaten track. They themselves, however, had none,
but I was directed to Captain L 's, close at
hand, where I was told I might find one. The
house stood on a rising ground which was perfectly
bare, all the trees having been cut down for many
acres round. There was not even the pretence of
garden before the doors, nor any enclosure, but the
great shapeless old log-house stood, in all its naked
roughness, alone. Mrs. L , I found, was an
elderly lady of elegant manners, and had seen a
great deal of the world, having been abroad with
her husband's regiment in the Mediterranean and
elsewhere. She had met Sir Walter Scott at Malta,
and was full of gossip about him and society gen-
erally in England and elsewhere. H i
184
Sugar-making.
pecially assiduous watching. Not a moment's rest
could its unfortunate contents get from the incessant
boiHng we kept uj) ; fresh sap being added as often
as it seemed to be getting too dry. In its rage, the
sap would every now and then make desperate ef-
forts to boil over ; but we were on the watch for
this also, and as soon as it manifested any intention
of the kind, we rubbed round the inside of the ket-
tle with a piece of pork-fat, beyond the limits of
which it would no more pass than if it had been in-
side some magic circle. My sisters were as busy as
we at every part of the process, and their poor
dresses showed abundant and lasting memorials of
their labors, in the rents made in them by the
bushes. What we were all like, from head to foot,
after a time, may be more easily conceived than de-
scribed. Our smudged faces, and sugary, slopj)y
clothes, made us all laugh at one another.
As the sap grew thicker with the incessant boiling,
another element was added to our amusement, in tlie
stickiness of every thing we handled. If we leaned
ajjainst a loo; at hand we were fast bound ; and the
pots, pans, ladles, buckets, axe-handles, troughs —
every thing we touched, indeed, seemed to part from
us only with regret. We were fortunate in having
no young children amongst us, as they would, of
course, have been in the thick of the fray, and have
become half-crystallized before all was over. The
" clearing off" was managed by pouring in beaten
eggs when the sap was beginning to get thick. This
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Sugar-making.
185
served to bring all the impurities at once to the top,
so that we could readily skim them off. Several in-
genious ways had been told us of knowing when
the process was complete. One was by boring
small holes in a fiat })iece of wood, and blowing on
it after dipping it into the syru}) ; the sugar going
throuixh the holes in lonix bubbles, if it were boiled
enough. Another plan was to put a little on the
snow, when, if it got stiff, it was time to pour all
out. Every thino; that would hold it was then,
forthwith, put into requisition, after having been
well greased to keep the sugar from sticking, and,
presently, we had cakes, loaves, lum})S, blocks,
every shape, in fact, of rich brown-colored sugar
of our own making. Some, which we wanted to
ciystallize, was put into a barrel, and stiiued while
cooling, which effectually answered the purpose.
Small holes bored in the bottom made the sugar
thus obtained whiter than the rest, by allowing the
molasses mingled with it to drain off. We ke})t
some sap for vinegar, which we made by simply
boiling three or four pailfuls until reduced to one,
and corking this up in a keg for a time.
For the first and second years the poorer settlers
have a dreadful job of it in the sugar bush, from
not havino; had sufficient time to fence it in from
the cattle, which, from their intrusion, area constant
annoyance. They poke their great noses into every
thing, and one taste of the ssip is very much to them
what they say the taste of blood is to a tiger, in
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Sagar-making.
stimulating their thirst for more. In they come,
braving all risks lor a sip of their much-loved nec-
tar ; out go the spouts from the trees, over go the
buckets of sap, and, worse than all, if the brutes
succeed in drinking any quantity, they are very
often seriously, if not mortally injured, their indul-
gence acting on them very nuich as clover does,
blowing out their stomachs, and even bursting them.
Another annoyance, at first, is the not having had
time to cut out the "under brush," so as to make
it possible to take a sleigh, with barrels on it, from
tree to tree, to collect the sap, with the help of oxen,
and hence, having to carry bucket by bucket to
the " kettles," often from a considerable distance,
which is no trifling task, over wet snow, and rough
ground, thick with every obstruction. We were
fortunate in this respect, having been warned in
time, so that every thing was as light as such work
can be.
The sugaring-ofF day was rather a festivity with
us, as we followed the custom of a good many of
our neighbors, and invited some young folks to come
to a carnival on the warm sugar, which is very
nice, though I should not care to eat as much at a
time as some of our visitors did. The quantity of
sap which a single tree yields is astonishing. I
think some gave not less than fifty gallons, and the
loss of it seemed to do them ffood rather than harm.
The older and stronger the trees the better the sap,
and the more abundant — a peculiarity vhich it
Bush Psalmody,
187
of
would be well for each of us to be able to have said
of his own life as it advanced. The Indians must
have been acquainted with the property of the ma-
ple for ages ; stone sugar-making utensils, of their
manufacture, comprising stone troughs and long
stone spouts, hollowed out and pointed for sticking
into the trees, having often been found in some dis-
tricts. The few who still survive keep up the hab-
its of their ancestors in this, as in other respects,
numbers of them offering sugar which they have
made, for barter, each spring.
Happening to be back in the bush one Sunday, I
stopped to hear the Presbyterian minister preach ;
he being expected to come there that afternoon. A
log school-house was made to serve for a chapel — a
(lark, wretched affair, into which, gradually, about
seventy or eighty people managed to cram them-
selves. The singing was conducted by an old
German, whose notions of music were certainly far
behind those of his countrymen generall}'. The
number of grace notes he threw in was astound-
ing ; but the people joined as well as they could,
using their powerful lungs with so much vigor, and
in such bad time and tune, as to be irresistibly
ludicrous. As to keeping abreast of each other
tlirough a verse or a line, it seemed never to occur
to them. A great fellow would roar himself out of
breath, with his face up to the qeiling and his mouth
open, like a hen drinking, and then stop, make a
swallow to recover himself, or, perhaps, spit on the
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188
Worship under Difficulties.
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floor, .and begin again where lie left off, in total
disregard of tlie fact that the others were half a line
ahead. Who can chronicle the number of " re-
peats " of each line, or portion of one? And as
to the articulation of the words, who could have
miessed their meanino; from the uncouth sounds he
heard ? The windows were very small ; and, when
tilled with people, the place was too dark for print
to be legible, so that, notwithstanding the excessive
cold, the minister had to stand outside the door
throufih the whole service. About the middle of
the sermon a brief interruption took place, from a
freak on the part of the stove, which stood in the
middle of the room, and was of the common kind,
with the sides held together by a raised edge on the
top and bottom. As usual in all Canadian churches
and meetings, some one was stuffing this contrivance
full of wood while the sermon was going on, when,
in a moment, the top got a trifle too much lifted up,
and down came stove-pipe, stove, fire and wood,
in one grand rumble, to the ground. As the floor
chanced to be made only of roughly-smoothed
planks, with great gaps between each, and the car-
penters' shavings and other inflammable matter
were clearly visible below, the danger of the whole
structure catching fire was great ; but the congre-
gation were equal to the emergency. A number
of men were out in a moment, to return, the next,
with great armfuls of snow, which they heaped on
the burning mound in such profusion that every
Worship under Difficulties,
189
spark of fire was extinguished in a few minutes.
The bottom of the stove was tlien prepared again
for the reception of the sides, tlie top was once more
fitted on, the stove-pipes put in their place, the rul>
bish thrust into its proper abode inside, and, by the
lielp of a few wliitthngs made on tlie spot, a fresh
fire was roaring in a very short time, enabhng the
minister to conclude in peace and comfort.
I have seen stranjre iixndents in backwoods wor-
ship. One church happened to be built on rather
high posts, leaving an open space of from two to
to three feet below, between the floor and the ground.
Into this shady retreat a flock of sheep, headed by
the bell-wether, had n;ade its entrance one Sunday
morning while we were at worship overhead, and
presently tinkle, tinkle, tinkle went the bell, now
in single sounds, and then, when the wearer perhaps
shook some fly off its ears, in a rapid volley. No-
body stirred. The clergyman alone seemed incom-
moded ; but no one thought he was particularly so,
till, all at once, he stopped, came down from the
pulpit, went out and drove off the intruders, after
which he recommenced as if nothing had occurred.
At another place, at the communion, to my astonish-
ment, instead of the ordinary service, a black bottle
und two tumblers were brought out, with all due
solemnit}'-, as substitutes.
We had a sample of the strength of female intel-
lect, one winter, in an old woman, who visited the
next village to preach on the Prophecies, and drew
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190
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A Clerical Mrs. Partington.
the whole of the humbler population of the neighbor-
liood to hear her. Grammar, of course, was utter-
ly disregarded ; she knew the obscurer books of
Scripture by heart, and, having a tongue more than
usually vohible, and an assurance that nothing could
abash, she did her best to enlighten the crowd on
no mean topics. Using her left arm as a chrono-
logical measure, she started, with Daniel, at the
elbow, and reached the consummation of all things
at her finger-ends, which she figuratively called
"the jumping-off place." Some of her similes, as
reported through the township, amused me exceed-
ingly as samples of what was just suited to please
the majority of her hearers. " There's no moi-e
grace, sir, in your heart than there's blood in a tur-
nip," washer apostrophe to some imaginary sinner.
"Them sinners," she added — "them hardei.ed
sinners, needs to be done to, as you do to a old black
tobaky pipe — throw 'em into the fire, and burn 'em
— then they'll be vvite." Such wandering lumi-
naries are, for the most part, importations from the
States, where they abound almost beyond belief.
Another of these learned expositors visited us for
the purpose of giving lectures on " Biology," by
which he meant the effects produced on his patients
by looking at large wooden buttons which he carried
with him ; a continued stare at them for a time
making the parties become, as he averred, com-
pletely subject, even in their thoughts, to his will.
He would tell one he was a pig, and all manner of
Biology.
191
Bwinish sounds and actions followed. Another was
assured he could not rise from his seat, and forth-
with appeared glued to the spot, despite his most
violent efforts to get up. Whether there was any-
actual truth in the exhibition, through the power
of some subtle mesmeric laws of which we know
little, I cannot say. Some thought there was ;
others, that the whole was a joke of some young
fellows who wished to create fun at the expense of
the audiences. But the exhibitor himself was a
real curiosity, in his utter illiterateness and match-
less assurance. He had seen somebody else exhibit-
ing in this way, and, like a shrewd Yankee, thought
he might make a little money by doing the same.
I wished to gain some information from him on the
subject, if he had any to give, and waited, after the
crowd had separated, to ask him about it ; but all
I could get from him was the frank acknowledg-
ment that " this here profession was not the one he
follered ; he had jist been a-coming to Canedy
after some lumber — he dealt in lumber, he did —
and calc'lated that he might as well's no make his
expenses by a few licturs." I almost laughed out-
right at this candid avowal, and left him.
One day, Louis de Blanc, an old Canadian
voyager, who had left his arduous avocation and
settled near our place long before we came, anmsed
me by a story of an apparition he had seen the
night before in passing the graveyard at the little
Catholic chapel on the roadside, two miles above
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192
A Crhost.
us. It was a little plot of ground, neatly fenced
round with wooden pickets, with the wild flowers
growing rank and high among the few lonely graves,
— some tall black crosses here and there outtopj)inn
them. " You know Michel Cauchon died last
week ; well, he always had a spite at me ; and,
sure enough, last night about twelve o'clock, as 1
was passing tlie churchyard, didn't I see his ghost
running across the road in the shape of a rabbit.
Ah ! how I sweated as I ran home ! I never stopped
till I got over my fence and safe in bed." The
poor rabbit that had caused the panic would, no
doubt, have been astonished, could it have learned
the terror it had inspired.
It was most astonishing to see what kind of food
some of these old Canadians relished — at least, it
was so to me. One day, having gone over to Le
Blanc's on some errand, I found his son Louis, a
boy of twelve or fourteen, with the handle of a fry-
ing-pan in one hand and a spoon in the other,
drinking down mouthful after mouthful of the melted
fat left after frying pork, and, on my silently
looking at him, was met by a delighted smile and a
smack of his lips, accompanied by a rapturous
assurance of, " Ah ! it slips good." Fat, however,
is only another name for carbon, or, it may be said,
charcoal, and carbon is needed in large quantities
to maintain an adequate amount of animal heat in
the inhabitants of cold climates, and to this must be
attributed their craving for grossly fat food. Cap-
*' It slips yoody
193
tain Cochrane, in his '* Pedt'strian Tour to Beluing's
Straits," shows us tluit poor Louis Le Blanc was in
this respect tar outdone by tiie Siberian tribes living
near tlie Arctic (Jcean, who relished nothing more
than a tallow candle, and would prolong the enjoy-
ment of one by pulling the wick, once and again,
through their halinjlosed teeth, that no particle of
the grease might be lost. Indeed, my friend Captain
L told me, that in the Arctic regions, his men
had acquired a similar relish for '* moulds" and
" dips," and could eat a candle as if it had been
sugai-stick. The Esquimaux, as we all know, live
on the nauseous blubber of the whale, cutting it off
in long strips, which, Sydney Smith facetiously
avers, they hold over them by the one hand, and
guide down by the other, till full to the mouth,
when they cut it off at the lips. The quantity of
butcher's meat eaten by every one during winter
in Canada is astonishing. Even the bush people,
who, when living in England liardly ever saw it,
eat it voraciously three times a-day, with a liberal
allowance of grease each time. What oceans of
nmtton-oil I have seen floating round chops, in some
of their houses I How often have I declined the
offer of three or four tablespoon fuls of pork-oil, as
"gravy" or *' sauce" to the pork itself I Yet it
''slips good," apparently, with the country popu-
lation generally. The quantity of butter these* good
folks consume is no less liberal. On the table of a
poor log-house they never think of putting down a
17
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194
Squatters.
lump weigliing less tlian a pound, at wlii ;li every
one hacks as he hkcs with liis own knife. But tliey
need it all, and it is a mercy they have it, to helj)
them to withstand the effects of extreme cold and
hard work. The poorer classes in towns, who have
no hind on which to raise animal food, and little
money with which to buy it, must sutfer very
severely.
There were a few " squatters " along the river
here and there — that is, men who had settled on
spots of the wilderness without having bought them,
or having acquired any legal rights, but were con-
tent to use them while undisturbed in possession,
and to leave their clearings when owners came for-
ward. They are always, in such cases, allowed
the value of their improvements, and as, meanwhile,
they live entirely rent free, their position is far
from wholly disadvantageous. In the early days of
the colony, indeed, there was no other plan. The
few first comers could hardly be any thing but
squatters, as the country was all alike an uncleared
wilderness, and there is no inducement to pay mon-
ey for any one spot, had they possessed the means.
Some of the French families in our neighborhood
had been settled on the same farm for generations,
and had at last actually bought their homesteads at
the nominal price demanded by government ; but
the squatters were not yet extinct, though they
might at one time have had their choice of the
richest soil at something like fourpence an acre.
Squatters.
195
A friend of mine told me, that within a period of
ahout thirty years, lie liad seen land sold again and
a""ain at no hitrher price. On the same lot as that
which boasted the Catholic chapel, one — a lonely
survivor of the class — had taken up his abode,
many years before our time, building a log-house
for himself, on the smallest possible scale, a lew
vards from the river. How he could live in such a
])lace seemed strange. It was not more than some
ten or twelve feet in length, and the up})er part of
it was used as his barn. Here, all alone, poor
Papineau had lived — no one I ever met could tell
how hmo;. There was no house or buildino; in
sight ; no one ever seemed to go near him, nor
did he ever visit any neighbor. He was his own
cook, housekeeper, washerwoman, farm-laborer,
every thing. I often wish I had tried to find out
more about him. We used, when we passed along
the river edge, to see him mowing his ])atcli of hay
for his cow, or weeding his plot of tobacco, for he
grew what he required for his own use of this as of
other things ; and he was always the same silent,
harmless hermit of the woods. It was a strange
kind of life to lead. How different from that of a
Londoner, or the life of the inhabitant of any large
o.ommunity ! Yet he must surely have been con-
tented, otherwise he would have left it and gone
where he could have found some society
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196
Buish 3Ia(/i8trate8.
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CHAPTER XII.
Bush magistrates. — Indian forest guides. — Senses quickemtd by
necessity. — liroukiiig up of the ice. — Depth of the frost. — A
grave in winter. — A bull. — A holiday coat.
IN those clays our local dignitaries were as pn'mi-
tive as the country it'^elf. On the river, indeed,
the magistrates were men of education, but in ihc
bush, the majority possessed no qualifications for
acting the part of justices. One of them had the
misfortune one winter to have a favorite dog killed
by some mischievous person, and feeling excessively
indignant at the loss, boldly announced that he was
prepared to pay a I'eward to any party who would
give such information respecting the offender as
should lead to his conviction. The wording and
spelling of this proclamation were alike remarkable.
It ran thus : " Whereas sum nutrishus vilain or
vilains has killed my dog Seesur, I ereby ofer a re-
ward of five dolars to any one that will mak none
the ofender or ofenders." He never got any bene-
fit from his efforts, but the document, in his own
handwriting, hung for a long time on the wall of
the next tavern, where all could see it, and not a
few laughed at its pecTiliarities.
Indian Forest Guides,
197
1 w.'is much struck by an iustaucc, wliich ix long
journey, about this time, tlirou;i;h tlu; woods, fravo,
of tho wonderful faculty ])Osscssc(l by the Indians
in ^oing straight from point to point across tho
thickest forest, where there is apparently nothinj^
to direct their course. Ilavini^ occasion to return
nearly twenty miles from a back township to which
the roads liad not yet been o})ened, and not likin;;
t t.ike tlie circuit necessary if 1 desired to find otli-
ers, I thought myself fortunate in meeting witli an
Indian, who, for a small reward, oflfered to take mo
liome by the nearest route. When I asked him how
he guided himself, he could say very httle,l)ut liintcd,
in his broken EngHsli, about one side of tlie trees
being rouglier than the other, though I could detect
httle or no difference on most of them. If it had
been in Nova Scotia, I could have understood liis
reasoning, for there the side of the trees toward tho
north is generally hung with a long gray beard of
moss, fi'om the constant moisture of the climate ; but
in Canada, it would take very sharp eyes to tell
which was the northern and which the other sides
from any outward sign. They must have some-
thing more to guide them, I think, though what it
is I cannot conceive. The senses become wonder-
fully acute when called into extraordinary service.
I have read of prisoners in dark dungeons, who
got at last to be able to see the spiders moving about
in their webs in the corners of their cells ; and blind
people often attain such a wonderful delicacy of
17 ♦
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198
Senses quickened hy necessity .
touch as to be able to detect things by differences*
so sliglit as to be imperceptible by others. The fa-
cility with which tliey read tlie books prepared for
them with raised letters, by simply j)assing their
fingers over the surfaces, is well known. The
sailor can discern the appearance of distant land, or
the Arab the approach of a camel over the desert,
when others would suspect neither. An Indian can
smell the fire of a " camp," as they call the place
where a party rests for the night, when a European
can detect nothing. There may, therefore, be some-
thing which can be noticed on the trees, by those
who pass their whole lives among them, which oth-
ers are unable to discover. The Indians derive a
great advantage fi'om the skill they possess in track-
ing the footsteps of men or animals over all soits of
ground, and among dry leaves. This faculty they
are enabled to acquire owing to the fact that the
forests in North America are generally open enough
underneath to offer easy passage ; and, moreover,
that the soil is little more on the surface than a car-
pet of rotten wood and decaying leaves, which easily
receives the impression of footsteps, and retains it
for a leno;tli of time. The moss on the fallen trees
is another great help in tracking the course of either
man or beast through the forest ; for neither the one
nor the other can well make their way over them
without iTibbing off portions here and there. Nor
is the mere fact of the passage in a particular direction
all that an Indian can detect from the traces on the
Breahing up of the Ice.
199
soil or vegetation. They reason acutely from things
which others would overlook, and sometimes surprise
one as much by the minute and yet correct conclu-
sions they draw respecting what they have not seen,
as the Arab did the Cadi of Bagdad, when he de-
scribed a camel and its load which had passed, and
whose track he had seen ; maintaining that the camel
was lame of a foot — because he had noticed a dif-
ference in the length of the steps ; that it wanted a
tooth, because the herbage it had cropped had a piece
left in the middle of each bite ; and, also, that the
load consisted of honey on one side and ghee on the
other, because he had noticed drops of each on the
path as he went along. My Indian made no hesi-
tation at any part of our journey, keeping as straight
as possible, and yet he was forced perpetually to
wind and turn round trees standing directly in our
path, and to vault over fallen logs,, which he did
with a skill that I in vain tried to imitate.
About the beginning of April the ice in the river
was getting very watery, the strength of the sun
melting the surface till it lay covered with pools in
every direction. Yet people persisted in crossing,
lono; after I should have thought it dangerous in the
('xtreme. It seemed as if it would hold together
for a long time yet, but the heat was silently doing
its work on it, and bringing the hour of its final
disappearance every moment nearer. It had be-
come a wearisome sight when looked at day after
dsy for months, and vv^e all longed for the open river
!i*;^
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200
Breaking up of the Ice.
once more. At last, about the sixteentli of the
montli, on rising in the morning, to our dehglit, the
wiiole surface of the ice was seen to be broken to
pieces. A strong wind whicli had been blowing
throuo;h tlie nio-ht \\vA c:aised such a motion in tlie
water as to spHt into fragments tlie now-weakened
sheet that bound it. It was a wonderfully beauti-
ful siglit to look at the bright blue water sparkling
once more in the lisht, as if in restless jrladness after
its long imprisonment, the richness of its color con-
trasting strikingly with the whiteness of the ice
which floated in snowy floes to the south. At flrst
there was only the broken covering of the river,
but, very soon, immense quantities of ice came sail-
ing down from the U})per Lakes, jammed together
one piece on another, in immense heaps, in every
variety of confusion, the upturned edges fringed
with prismatic colors. I found that the ])reparation
for this grand upbreaking had been much more
complete than I had susj)ected, from looking at it
from a distance ; the whole of what had appeared
quite solid having been so afl^'ected by the sun,
that, whichever way yon looked at it, long rows
of air-bubbles showed themselves throuixh it, sliow-
ing that there was little power left in it to resist
any outward force. The final ruj)ture, though ap-
parently so sudden, had been, in fact, steadily pro-
gressing, until, ai last, the night's storm had been
sufficient to sweep away in an hour what had pre-
viou5.dy stood the wildest rage of winter. 1 have
Depth of the Frost.
201
often, since, thought that it gave a very good illus-
tration of the gradually increasing influence of all
efforts for good, and of their certain ultimate triumph
— each day's faithful work doing so much toward
it, though the progress may for long be impercepti-
ble, until at last, when we hardly expect it, the
opposing forces give way, as it were, at cnce, and
forthwith leave only a scattered and retreating wreck
behind. Gradual preparation, and apparently sud-
den results, are the law in all things. The Refor-
mation, though accom})lished as if at a blow, had been
silently made possible through long previous gener-
ations ; and when the idolaters in Tahiti threw away
their hideous gods, the salutary change was only
effected by the long-continued labors of faithful
missionaries for many years before — labors, which,
to many, must, at the time, have seemed fruitless
and vain.
The depth to which the frost had penetrated the
ground was amazing. I had already seen proof of
its being pretty deep, on the occasion of a grave
having to be dug in a little spot of ground attached
to a chapel at some distance from us, for the burial
of a poor neighbor's wife who had died. The
ground was deeply covered with snow, which had
to be cleared away before they could begin to dig
the grave, and the soil was then found to be so hard
that it had to be broken up with pickaxes. Even
in that earlier part of the winter the frost was near-
ly two feet deep, and it was a touching thing to see
m
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202
A Grrave in Winter.
tlie frozen lumps of earth wliich had to be thrown
down on the coffin. Any thing Hke beating tlie
grave smooth, or shaping it into the humble mound
which is so familiar to us at home, as the token of
a form like our own lying beneath, was impossible;
there could only be a rough approach to it till spring
should come to loosen the iron-bound earth.
Strangely enough, there were two funerals from the
same household within the same month, and the two
graves were made side by side. The mother had
died just as she was about to start for the house of
her daughter-in-law who was ailing, a hundred and
twenty miles off, and the object of her beautiful
tenderness had herself died before the same month
had expired, leaving it as her last wish that she
should be laid beside her friend who had departed
so lately. It was now the depth of winter — the
Arctic cold made every thing like rock — the
sleigliing was at its best, and thus the journey was
made comparatively easy. Laying the coffin in a
long sleigh and covering it with straw, and taking
a woman with him to carry a young infant to his
friends to nurse, the husband set out with his ghast-
ly load. There was no fear of delaying the burial
too long, for the corpse was frozen stiff, and might
have been kept above ground for weeks without
the risk of its thawing. When I used to pass after-
wards in summer time, the two graves, which were
the first in the burial-ground, wore a more cheerful
aspect than they had done at first ; the long beauti-
■.(■)' .
M
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Depth of the Frost.
208
fill gi*ass waving softly over them, and wild flowers
borne thither by the winds or by birds, mingling
their rich colors with the shades of green around.
I think the soil must eventually have been frozen
at least a yard down, if we may judge by its effects.
Great gate-posts were heaved up by the expansion
of the earth, when the thaw turned the ice into
water ; for, though ice is lighter than water, it forms
a solid mass, whereas the swelling moisture pushes
the particles of earth apart. I have seen houses
and walls cracked from top to bottom, and fences
thrown down, from the same cause ; indeed, it is
one of the regularly recurring troubles of a Canadian
farmer's year. If any thing is to stand pennanently,
the foundations must be sunk below the reach of the
frost. It is very much better, however, in Canada
than in the icy wilderness to the north of it. Round
Hudson's Bay the soil never thaws completely, so
that if you thrust a pole into the earth in the warm
season, you may feel the frozen ground a few feet
beneath. It is wonderful that any vegetation can
grow under such circumstances, but the heat of the
sun is so great, that even over the everlasting ice-
bed, some crops can be raised in the short fiery
summer. Indeed, even on the edge of the great
Arctic Ocean, along the coasts of Siberia, and on
some spots of the American shore, the earth brought
down by rivers and strewn by their floods over tho
hills of ice, is bright with vegetation for a short part
of each year — in this respect not unlike stony and
204
A Ball,
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cold natures wlilcli have yet, over tlieir unmelting
hardness, an etHorescence of good — tlie skin of
virtue spread, as old Tliomas Fuller says, like a
mask over the face of vice.
During the winter a great ball was given across
the river, in a large barn, which had been cleared for
the purpose, the price of the tickets being fixed at
a dollar, which included an abundant supper. It
was intimated, however, that those who had no
money might pay in "dicker" — a Yankee word
for barter ; a biuulle of shingles, a certain number
of eijgs, or so much wei1 i apple-tree. A hole had been
cut in the body of the tree, as round as if it had
been marked out by a carpenter's compasses, about
six or eight inches deep in a slanting direction, and
then ten or twelve more perpendicularly, the top of
it only large enough to let the parents in and out,
but the bottom apparently quite roomy, for the
young family. As far as I could see, it was as
smootli as a man could have made it, and I was as-
Doivny Woodpeckers.
211
Bured that it was tlio same in every part. It ap
pears that these birds are as cunning as tliey are
clever at tliis art, tlie two old ones regularly carry
ing out all the chips as they are made, and strewing
them about aj a considerable distance from the nest,
so as to j)revent suspicion of its |)resence. Six pure
white eggs, laid on the smooth bottom of their curi-
ous abode, mark the number of each year's family,
the female bird sitting closely on them while they
are being hatched, her husband, meanwhile, busying
himself in supplying her with choice grubs, that she
may want for nothing in her voluntary imprison-
ment. The little woodpeckers make their first ap-
pearance about the middle of June, when one may
see them climbing the bark of the tree as well as
they can, as if practising before they finally set out
in life for themselves. I had often wondered at the
appearance of the bark in many of the apple and
pear-trees, which seemed as if some one had fired
charges of shot into them ; but it w as long before I
knew the real cause. It appears that it is the work
of the woodpeckers, and many farmers consequently
think the poor birds highly injurious to their or-
chards. But there are no real grounds for such an
opinion, for no mischief is done by these punctures,
numerous though they be. I have always remarked
that the trees which were perforated most seemed
most thriving, no doubt because the birds had de-
stroyed the insects which otherwise would have
injured them. The autumn and winter is the great
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212
Boicny Woodpeckers.
time for their <)})eriitions, aiul it is precisely the time
when the i)reservati()ii of the fruit, in the coming
sunnner, can he hest secured. Curious us it may
seem that siich a rithlling of the bark can be bene-
ficial to the tree, it evidently is sg. From the
ground to where the branches fork olf, there is often
hardly an inch of the bark which does not bear the
mark of some grub-hunt, and scmietimes eight or
ten of them might be covered by a penny. Farm-
ers, however, rarely philosophize, and no wonder
that in this case they regard as prejudicial what is
really a benefit. But, on the other hand, they are
correct enouo-h as to the habits of some of tlie wood-
peckers, for greater thieves than the red-headed
ones, at some seasons, can hardly be found. The
little rascals devour fruit of all kinds as it ri})ens,
completely stripping the trees, if ])ermitted. In
fact, they have a liking for all good things ; they
are sure to pick the finest strawberries from your
beds, and have no less relish for apples, peaches,
cherries, plums, and ])ears ; Indian corn, also, is a
favorite dish with them, while it is still milky. Nor
do these little plagues keep to vegetable diet exclu-
sively ; the eggs in the nests of small birds are never
passed by in their search lor delicacies. One can't
wonder, therefore, that, with such plundering pro-
pensities, they should lose their lives pretty often.
The flocks of pigeons that come in the early
spring are wonderful. They fly together in bodies
of many thousands, perching, as close as tliey can
Passenjcr Pitjcons.
213
settle, n t}t%. trees wlieu they alight^ or covering
the ground ( rer hirge spaces wlien i'eecling. The
first tidings ot tlieir approach is the signal for every
available gun to be brought into requisition, at once
to procure a supply of fresh food, and to })rotect the
crops on the Helds, winch the pigeons would utterly
destroy if they were allowed. It is singular how
little sense, or perhaps fear, such usually timid
birds have when collected together in numbers.
I have heard of one man who was out shooting
them, and had crept close to one flock, when theu'
leaders took a fancy to Hy directly over him, ahr.-^st
close tc the ground, to his no small terror. Thou-
sands brushed past him so close as to make him
alarme(^ for his eyes ; and the stream still kept pour-
inoj on after he had discharjxed his barrels, right and
left, into it, until nothing remained but to throw
himself on !:is ice till the whole had flown over
him. They do not, liowever, come to any Jiart of
Canad; \.'.'t]: which 1 am acquainted in such amaz-
ing mmibrrs i«s are said by Wilson • ' Audubon to
visit the western United States. The latter natu-
ralist left his house at Henderson, on the Ohio, in
the autumn of 1813, on his vvav to Louisville, and
on passing the Barrens, a few iuih^s beyond Hardens-
burgh, observed the pigeonj tly'/ig from north-east
to south-west in suc3i iiuir'iers, that he thought he
would try tocalculale li'^^y mj/»y there really were.
Dismounting, and seaij.io inmself on a knoll, he
began making a dot in his viote-book for every flock
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^/^6;iV Nwmhers.
that passed, but in a short time liad to give up the
attempt, as he had already put down a Imndre^^ and
sixty-three in twenty-one minutes, and they still
poured on in countless multitudes. The air was
literally filled with pigeons; the light of noon-day
was obscured as if by an eclipse, and the continued
buzz of wings produced an inclination to drow " aess.
When he reached Louisville, a distance of t icv-five
miles, the pigeons were still passing in unabated
numbers, and continued to do so for three days in
succession. He calculated that, if two pigeons
were allowed for each square yard, the number in
a single flock — and that not a large one, extending
one mile in breadth and a hundred and eighty in
length — could not be less than one billion, one
hundred and fifteen millions, one hundred and
thirty-six thousand ! The food required for such a
countless host passes our power to realize clearly,
for, at half a pint a day, which is hardly as much
as a pigeon consumes, they would eat, in a single
dav, eio-ht millions, seven hundred and twelve
thousand bushels. To get such supplies from cul-
tivated fields would, of course, be impossible, and it
is fortunate that they hardly ever attempt it, their
principal support being the vast quantities of beech-
mast which the unlimited expanse ot unbroken
forest supplies.
A curious fact respecting them is that they have
fixed roosting-places, from wh'ch lui disturbance
appears able to drive them, and to these they resort
'f^.
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Hoosting-places.
215
I '11
night by night, however far they may have to fly
to obtain food on the returning day. One of them,
in Kentucky, M'as repeatedly visited by Audubon,
who found that it was about forty miles in length
by three in breadth. A fortnight after the pigeons
had chosen it for the season, he found that a great
number of persons, with horses and wagons, guns
and ammunition, had already established themselves
on its borders. Herds of hogs had been driven up
to fatten on a portion of those which might be
killed. Some of the visitors were busy plucking
and salting what had been already procured, huge
piles of them lying on each side of their seats.
Manv trees two feet in diameter were broken off at
no great distance from the ground by the weight of
tlie multitudes that had lighted on them ; and huge
branches had given way, as if the forest had been
s.vept by a tornado. As the hour of their anival
approached, every preparation was made to receive
them : iron pots, containing sulphur, torches of
pine-knots, poles and guns, being got ready for use
the moment they came. Shortly after sunset the
cry arose that they were come at last. The noise
they made, though yet distant, was like that of a
hard gale at sea, when it passes through the rigging
of a closely-reefed vessel. Thousands were soon
knocked down by the polemen ; the birds continued
to pour in ; the fires were lighted ; and a magni-
ficent as well as wonderful and almost terrifying
sight presented itself. Th' pigeons, arriving by
nil
I •
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: >
216
Moosting-plxces.
tliousands, alighterl everywhere, one above another,
until solid masses as large as hogslieads were formed
on the branches all round. Here and there tlie
perches gave way, and falling on the ground with
a crash, destroyed hundreds of the birds ben<'ath,
fov?ir)or down the dense groups with which every
spot us loaded. The pigeons were constantly
coming, and it was past midnight before he per-
ceived a decrease in their number. Before day-
light they had begun again to move off, and by
sunrise all were gone. This is Audubon's account.
I myself have killed thirteen at a shot, fired at a
venture into a flock ; and my sister Margaret killed
two one day by simply throwing up a stick she had
in her hand as they swept past at a point where
we had told her to stand, in order to frighten them
into the open ground, that we might have a better
chance of shooting them. I have seen bagfuls of
them that had been killed by no more formidable
weapons than poles swung right and left at them
as they flew close past. The rate at which they
fly is wonderful, and has been computed at about
a mile a minute, at which rate they keep on for
hours together, darting forward with rapid beats
of their wings very much as our ordinary pigeons
do.
The frogs were as great a source of amusement
to us as the pigeons were of excitement. Wher-
ever there was a spot of water, thence, by night and
day, came their chorus, the double bass of the bull-
Bull Frogs.
217
fro2S strikino; in every now and then amidst the in-
describable l)il)ing of the multitudes of their smaller
brethren. It is very difficult to catch a sij^ht of
these bassoon performers, as they s})ring into the
water at the slightest approach of danger ; yet you
may now and then come on them basking at the
side of a pond or streamlet, their great goggle eyes
and black skin making them look very grotesque.
They are great thieves in their own proper element,
many a duckling vanishing from its mother's side
by a sudden snap of some one of these solemn gen-
tlemen below. They are a hungry race, always
ready apparently for what they can g^t, and making
short work with small fishes, all kinds of small rep-
tiles, and even, I believe, the lesser kinds of snakes,
when they can get them. These fellows are the
giants of the frog tribes, and portly gentlemen
withal, some of them weighing very nearly a pound.
The shrill croak of the other fro<2s is like nothincr
else that I ever heard : it is a sort of trill of two or
three notes, as if coming through water, and it rises
from so many throats at once that it may be said '
never for a moment to cease. There is a kind of
frog which lives on the branches of trees, catching
the insects on the leaves — a beautiful little crea-
ture, of so nicely shaded a green that it is almost
impossible to detect it even when you are close to
it. Henry and I were one day at work in the early
summer near a young maple, in the back part of
the farm, and could hardly keep up conversation
^8
'3
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1^^^^
218
Tree Frogs.
i'
)
for the liissing trill of a number of tliem on it , but
though the tree was so near us, we could not, by all
our looking, discover any of the invisible minstrels.
At last the tliino; bt ame so ludicrous that we deter-
mined, if possible, to get a sight of one ; and as the
lower branches began at about our own height, one
of us went to the one side, and the other to the
vdier, to watch. Trill — trill — bubble — bubble
— bubble — rose all around us, but no other signs
• r the warblers. We looked and laughed, laughed
and looked again ; the sound was within a yai>d of
us, yet nothing could be seen. When almost giv-
ing up, however, I chanced to look exactly on the
spot where one was making his little . throat swell
to get out another set of notes, and the rise and fall
of its breast at once discovered its presence. Hen-
ry was at my side in a moment, and we could both
see it plainly enough, of course, when our eyes had
once fairly distinguished it from the gi'een around.
It continued to sit unmoved on its leaf, and we did
not disturb it.
One morning we came upon a beautiful little
creature which had been killed by some means, and
lay in the yard near the barn. It was evidently a
squirrel, but differed from the ordinary species in
one curious particular. Instead of having its legs
free like those of other squirrels, a long stretch of
fur extended from the front to the back legs so as
to form something like wings when spread out. It
Was a flying squirrel, a kind not so common as the
' V
w
Flying Squirrels.
219
others, and coming out mostly by niglit. These
extraordinary appendages at tlieir sides are used by
them to sustain them in enormous leaps which they
make from branch to branch, or from one tree to
another. Trusting to them they dart hither and
thither with wonderful swiftness ; indeed, it is hard
for the eye to follow their movements. What most
struck me in tliis unusual development was the evi-
dent approach it made towards the characteristic of
birds, being as it were a link between the form of
an ordinary quadruped and that of a bat, and stand-
ing in the same relation to the wing of the latter as
that does to the wing; of a bird. It is sinmilar how
one class of creatures merges into another in every
department of animal life. Indeed, it is puzzling
at times to distinguish between veo;etable and ani-
mal structures, where the confines of the two king-
doms join, as the word zoophyte, which really means
" a living plant," sufficiently shows. Then there
is a caterpillar in New Zealand out of whose back,
at a certain stage of its growth, springs a kind of fun-
gus, which gradually drinks up the whole juices of
the insect and destroys it ; but this is not so much an
approximation of two different orders as an acci-
dental union. There are, however, many cases of
interlinking in the different "families" into which
life is divided, the study of which is exceedingly
curious and interesting.
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220
Our Spring Croys.
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Our spring crops.
CHAPTER XIV.
Indian corn. — Pumpkins. — Melons. — Fi uits
— Wild flowers.
THE first thing we thought of, when the spring
had fairly set in, was to get spring wheat,
potatoes, Indian corn, pumpkins, oats, and other
crops into the ground. Our potatoes were man-
aged in a very primitive way, in a patch of newly-
cleared ground, the surface of which, with a good
deal more, we had to burn off before it could be
tilled. A heavy hoe was the only implement used,
a stroke or two with it sufficing to make a hole for
the potato cuttings, and two or three more to drag
the earth over them, so as to form a " hill.'" These
we made at about eighteen inches apart, putting
three or four pumpkin seeds in every third hill of
the alternate rows. The Indian corn was planted
m the same way, in hills more than a yard apart,
pumpkin seeds being put in with it also. It is my
favorite of all the beautiful plants of Canada. A
field of it, when at its finest, is, I think, as charm-
ing a sight as could well invite the eye. Rising
higher than the height of a man, its great jointed
Pumpkins .
221
stems are crested at the top by a long waving plume
of purple, wJiile from the upper end of each head
of the grain there waves a long tassel resembling
pale green silk. It is grown to a large extent in
Canada, but it is most cultivated in the Western
United States, many farmers on the prairies there
growing a great many acres of it. It is used in many
ways. When still unripe it is full of delicious milky
juice, which makes it a delicacy for the table when
boiled. The ripe corn makes excellent meal for
cakes, etc., and is the best food for pigs or poultry,
while the stalks make excellent fodder for cattle.
The poor Indians grow a little corn when they
grow nothing else. You may see the long strings
of ears plaited together by the tough wrappings
round each, and hung along poles round their wig-
wams to dry for winter use. They have been in
possession of it no one can tell how long. When
the M^yjllower anchored, with the Pilgrim Fa-
thers, at Plymouth Bay, in Massachusetts, in 1620,
they found hoards of it buried for safety in the
woods around, the Indians having taken this plan
to conceal it from them.
The size of the pumpkins is sometimes enormous.
I have known them so large that one would fill a
wheelbarrow, and used often to think of a piece of
rhyme I learned when a boy, in which it was pointed
out what a mercy it was that they grew on the
ground rather than aloft, acorns being quite heavy
19*
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222
Melons.
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enougli In windy weather.* They are used in great
quantities for " pumpkin pie," as the Canadians
call it — a preparation of sweetened pumpkin spread
over paste. They use them in this way, not only
while fresh, but cut a great many into thin slices and
dry them, that they may have this dessert in winter
as well as summer. They are excellent food for
pigs and cattle when broken into manageable pieces
for them. I don't think any thing grew with us
better than beets and carrots, the latter especially.
A farmer in our neighborhood, who was partial to
their growth for the sake of his horses and cattle,
beat us, however, in the quantity raised on a given
space, having actually gathered at the rate of thir-
teen hundred bushels per acre of carrots. We had
a carrot show some years after in the neighboring
township, at which this fact was state 1, and its
accuracy fairly established by the fact of others
having gathered at the rate of as many as eleven
hundred bushels per acre. I remember the meeting
chiefly from the assertion of an Irishman present,
who would not allow that any thing in Canada
could surpass its counterpart in his native island,
and maintained that these carrots were certainly
very good, but that they were nothing to one which
was grown near Cork, which was no less than eight
feet nine inches in length !
A variety of melons formed one of the novelties
* Le Gland et la Citroaille : Fables de La Fontaine, B. ix. 4.
Fruits.
223
we ixrew after tlie first season. We had nothing
to do but put them in the ground and keep them
free from weeds, when they began to " run " — as
tliey did, far and near, over the ground. It was an
easy way to get a luxury, for some of tliem are very
dehcious, and all are very refreshing in tlie sultry
heat of summer. They grow in every part of
Canada in great luxuriance, and without any thing
like a preparation of the soil. Indeed, I once saw
a great fellow of an Indian planting some, which
would doubtless grow well enough, with his toes —
pushing aside earth enough to receive the seeds, and
then, with another motion of his foot, covering them
up. Cucumbers grew in surprising numbers from
a very small quantity of seed, and we had a castor-
oil plant and some plants of red pepper before our
doors. We had not very much time at first to
attend to a vegetable garden, and therefore contented
ourselves with a limited range of that kind of com-
forts, but it was not the fault of the soil or climate,
for in no place of which I know d > tie various
bounties of the garden grow more freely than in
Canada. Cabbages, cauliflower, brocoli, peas,
French beans, spinach, onions, turnips, carrots,
l)arsnips, radishes, lettuces, beet, asparagus, celery,
rhubarb, tomatoes, cucinnbers, and I know not
V. liat else, need only be sown or planted to yield a
Ituuntiful return.
As to fruits, we had, for years, to buy all we
'ised, or to gather it in ihe woods, but it was very
I' ' r
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224
Fruits.
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I'lieap wlicn bouojlit, nnd easily procured wl) gath-
ered. Apples of a size and flavor almost peculiar
to America, pears, plums, cherries, raspberries, cur-
rants, and strawberries, <»;row everywhere in amaz-
ing abundance. Peaches of the sunniest beauty
and most delicate flavor are at times in some dis-
tricts almost as j)leutit'ul as potatoes ; but we never
managed to get any from our orchard, want of
knowledge on our ] art having sjioiled our first trees,
which we never afterwards cxcliauiied for others.
But on the Nia;li-flown notions doomed
lo meet a more thorough disappointment. They
were encann)ed on the sloping bank of the creek,
for it was beautiful summer weather, two or throe
wigwams risinii under the shade of a fine oak which
stretched hii!;h overhead. The wiowams themselves
w^ere simply sheets of the bark of the birch and
bass-trees, laid against a slight framework of poles
inside, and sloping inwards like a cone, with a hole
at the top. An open space served for an entrance,
a loose sheet of bark, at the side, standing ready to
do duty as a door, if required. I have seen them
of different shapes, but they are generally round,
though a few show the fancy of their owners by
resembling the sloping roof of a house laid on the
ground, with the entiy at one end. Bark is the
common material i but in the woods on the St. Clair
Indian Wigwams,
2'2Si
river I once saw a family ensconced below some
yards of wnite cotton, stretched over two or three
rods ; and near Halifax, in Nova Scotia, in winter,
1 noticed some wio;wams made of loose broken out-
side slabs of logs, which the inmates had laboriously
got together. In this last miserable hovel, by the
way, in the midst of deep snow, with the wind
whistling through it in every direction, and the
thermometer below zero, lay a sick squaw and a
young infant, on some straw and old blankets, to
get well the best way she could. What she must
have suffered from the cold can hardly be conceived.
No wonder so many die of consumption.
In the grou]) at the wigwams, as we drew near,
we could see there w^ere both men, women, and
children — the men and women ornamented with
great flat silver earrings, and all, including the
children, bare-headed. Their hair was of jet black,
and quite straight, and the men had neither beards
nor whiskers. Both sexes wore their hair long,
some of them plaiting it up in various ways. Their
color was like that of a brown dried leaf, their cheek-
bones high and wide apart ; their mouths generally
large, and their eyes smaller than ours ; and we
noticed that they all had ^ood teeth. This is not,
however, an invariable characteristic, for sometimes
they suffer from their decay, like Europeans, and
the doctor once told me how an Indian had waited
for him at the side of the road, and, when he came
up, had made signs of pain from toothache, and of
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230
Indian Dress.
his wish tliat the tooth should be removed, which
was forthwith done, the sufferer departing in great
glee at the thought of his deliverance. " The next
day," the doctor added, " the poor fellow showed
his gratitude by waiting for me at the same place
with a fino stone pipe-head, which he had just cut,
and which he handed to me with a grunt of good-
will as I came up." The dress of the women con-
sisted of a cotton jacket, a short petticoat of cloth,
with leggings of cloth underneath, which fitted
tightly. Those who were doing nothing had a
blanket loosely thrown over them, though it was
then hot enough to do without almost any clothing.
The dress of the men varied, from the merest
mockery of clothing to the full suit of a cotton shirt
and a pair of long leather or cloth leggings. One
of them, a great strapping man, gave my sisters a
great fright, shortly after, by walking into the house
as noiselessly as a cat, and stalking up to the fire
for a light to his pipe, with nothing on him but a
cotton shirt. Pulling out a piece of burning wood
and kindling his pipe, he sat down on a chair beside
them to enjoy a smoke, without ever saying a word,
and went off, when he had finished, with equal
silence. The little children were naked either
altogether, or with the exception of a piece of cotton
round their loins ; and the babies, of which there
are always some in every Indian encampment,
peered out with their bright black beads of eyes
from papooses, either hung up on a forked pole or
Indian Babies.
231
St
resting against a tree. These "jiapooses" were
quite a novelty to us. They were simply a flat
board a little longer than the infant, with a bow of
hickory bent in an arch over the upper end, to
protect the head, and some strings at the sides to
tie the little creature safely. There it lay or stood,
with abundant wrappings round it, but with its legs
and arms in hopeless confinement, its little eyes
and thin trembling lips alone telling the story of its
tender age. To lift it was like taking hold of a
fiddle, only you could hardly hurt it so easily as you
might the instrument. Not a cry was to be heard,
for Indian babies seem always good, and nobody
was uselessly occupied in taking care of them, for,
where they were, no injury could come near them.
I should not myself like to be tied up in such a
way, but it seems to do famously with them. One
of the women had her child at her back, inside her
blanket, its little brown face and black eyes peering
over her shoulder. Another was putting some
sticks under a pot, hung from a pole, which rested
on the forks of two others ; and one or two were
enjoying a gossip on the grass. The men, of course,
were doing nothing, while the boys were amusing
themselves with their bows and arrows, in the use
of which they are very expert. We had been told
that they could hit almost any thing, and resolved
to try them with some coppers, which were certainly
very small objects to strike in the air ; but the little
fellows were wonderful archers. Each half-penny
232
Indian Habits.
1 ' ■ ■;
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got its quietus the moment it left our fingers, and
they even liit a sixpence which Henry, in a fit of
generosity, threw jp. Birds must have a very
small chance of escape when they get within range
of tlieir arrows. It brought to my mind the little
Balearic islanders, who, in old times, could not get
their dinners till they had hit them from tlie top of
a high pole with their slings, and country boys I
had seen in England, whom long practice had taught
to throw stones so exactly that they could hit almost
any thing. Indeed, there seems to be nothing that
we may not learn if we only try long enough, s^nd
with sufficient earnestness.
It used to astonish me to see the Indians on the
((
Reserve " living in bark wigwams, close to com-
fortable log-houses erected for them by Govern-
ment, but which they would not take as a gift. I
used to think it a striking proof of the difficulty of
breakinof off the habits formed in uncivilized life.
and so indeed it is ; but, the poor Indians had more
sense in what seems madness than I at first sup-
posed. It appears they feel persuaded that living
one part of the year in the warmth and comfort of
a log-house makes them unable to bear the exposure
during the rest, when they are away in the woods
on their hunting expeditions. But why they should
not give up these wandering habits, which force
such hardships on them, and repay them so badly
after all, is wonderful, and must be attributed to
the inveterate force of habit. It seems to be very
Can the Indians he Civilized?
233
life.
hard to get wildness out of the blood when once
fairly in it. It takes generations in most cases to
make such men civilized. Lord Dartmouth once
founded a college for Indians in Massachusetts,
when it was a British province, and some of them
were collected and taun;ht Eno-lish and the classics,
with the other branches of a liberal education ; but
it was found, after they had finished their studies,
that they were still Indians, and that, as soon as
they had a chance, they threw away their books
and English clothes, to run off again to the woods
and wander about in clothes of skins, and live in
wio-wams. It is the same with the aborigines of
Australia. The missionaries and their wives have
tried to get them taught the simple rudiments of
English life — the boys to work and the girls to
sew — but it has been found that, after a time, they
always got like caged birds beating against their
prison, and that they could not be kept from dart-
iiio; off ao;ain to the wilderness. The New Zea-
lander stands, so far as I know, a solitary and
wonderful excei)ti(m to this rule, the sons of men
who were cannibals have already adopted civili-
zati(m to so great an extent as to be their own ship-
builders, sailors, captains, clerks, schoolmasters, and
farmers.
It seems almost the necessary result of civilized
and uncivilized people living together in the same
country that the latter, as the weaker, should fade
awiiy before their rivals, if they do not thoroughly
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234
TJieir jpaat Decay as a Bace*
adopt their luibits. The aboriginal inliabitants of
the Sandwich Islands are ra])idly ap[)roaehing ex
tinction in spite of all efforts to secure their perma-«
nence. The vices of civilization have corru})ted the
very blood of the race, till they seem hopelessly
fading away. The natives of New Holland are
vanishing" in the same way, though not, perhaps,
from the same immediate causes. The Caribs of
the West Indies, who were so fierce and powerful
in the days of Columbus and his successors, are
now extinct. It is much the same with the Red
Man of America. The whole continent was theirs
from north to south, and from east to west, but now
they are only to be found crowded into corners of
our different provinces, a poor and miserable rem-
nant, or as fugitives in remote prairies and forests,
for they have been nearly banished altogether from
the settled territories of the States. It is a curious
fact, also, that this is not the first time widely-spread
races of their color have been swept away from the
same vast surface. Remains of former populations,
which have perished before those who tliemselves
are now perishing, are to be found in many parts,
as in the huge burial mounds of Ohio, and the ruined
cities of Guatemala and Yucatan. Canada has now
settlements of Indians in various places, but they
are, altogether, few in number. One is on Mani-
toulin Island, near the northern shore of Lake
Huron, wdiere a clergyman of the Church of Eng-
land, Mr. Peter Jacobs, himself an Indian, minis-
Indian Decay as a Race.
236
lei's, as a zealous and efficient missionary ; another,
fit the head of River St. Clair, stretches down the
hank for four or five miles, the picture of neglect
;5ii;l aversion to work, in the midst of improvement
j'.r ciuh side ; one on Walpole Island, down the
liv'T, where the missionary is one of the most «nir-
II 'sr and laborious I have had the pleasure of know-
ii:o; ; one on the banks of the river Thames, under
the charge of the Moravian brethren — the wreck
of tribes who left the States in the war, last century
— forming, with another settlement on the Grand
River, near Bi'antford, the representatives of those
who, in Lord Chatham's day, brought down that
great orator's terrible denunciation of the " calling
into civilized alliance the wild and inhuman inhab-
itants of the woods, and delegating to the toma-
hawk and the scal})ing-knife of the merciless savage
the rights of disputed property." There are some
others to the north and east of Toronto, but their
numbers altogether are but the shadow of what
they were once. Old Courtenay, speaking to me
one day about those on the River St. Clair, where
he had lived from his childhood, shook his head as
a wandering, miserable family passed by on their
wretched ponies, and said, feelingly, " Poor things !
they'll soon follow the rest. I remember when
there were a hundred on the river for twenty there
are now. They all go at the lungs. Lying out
in the wet brings on the terrible cough, and they're
gone." The Indian Agent for the west of the
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236
Indian Decay as a Itace,
province told ine, however, when in Entrland, lately
tlijit they were kee])ino; u|) tlieir nunihers now ; but
I can hardly sec how it is possible, if they do not
take more care of themselves. The very moccasins
they wear for shoes are fit, in my o])ini()n, to kill
anyone — mere coverings of deer leather, whicli
soak uj) water like blotting-})aper, and keep them
as if perpetually standing in a pool. Then they get
spirits from the storekeepers, in spite of every effort
on the ])art of government to prevent it, and they
often suffer such ])rivations for want of food as must
tell fearfully on their health. I have often watched
them passing on ponies or a-foot ; if the former, the
squaws sitting cross-legged on the bare backs, like
men, with their children round them, and guiding
thei'' animals by a ro]:)e halter ; the men carrying
only a gun, if they were rich enough to have one ;
and I have thoujTht of the contrast between their
present state and the story of their numbers and
fierceness, as handed down in the old French narra-
tives of two hundred years ago ; how they kept the
French in perpetual fear, burning their houses and
even their towns ; how the woods swarmed, in differ-
ent parts, with their different indei)endent nations
— The Hurons, the Algonquins, the Iroquois, the
Ojibbeways — and how, in later years, they played
so terrible a part in the French and American wars
with Great Britain. They seem like snow in sum-
mer, when only a patch lies here and there, await-
ing speedy disappearance, of all that covered hill
AUefji'd Innocence of Savarje Life. 237
and valley in its season. Some tribes, indeed, have
passed away altoo;etlier since tlu> first landino- of
Europeans on the continent. Those at Nonantuni,
in Massachusetts, for \v'hom the fjreat missionary,
John Eliot, translated the Bihh'two hundred vears
alio, are all gone, so that the book which once
spoke to them of the world to come, and a copy of
which still survives in the museum at Boston, now
lies open without a livino; creature who can read it.
The Mandans, a great tribe in the western jirairies
— the only tribe, indeed, of whom I have heard,
among the Indians of the present day, as building
regular fortified and permanent villages and towns,
have been entirely swept off within the last thirty
years by the smallpox, which was brought among
them by some poor trader.
It is a striking contradiction to what we some-
times hear of the happy innocence of savage life,
that the Indians, when they had all the country to
themselves, were continually at war with one
another. The Mohawks, who lived in the north-
ern part of the United States, seem especially to
have been given to strife, often leaving theii- own
side of the great lakes to make desolating inroads
into Canada, until their name became such a word
of terror that the very mention of it spread alarm
in an encampment. Even at this day, I have been
assured that to raise the cry of " the Mohawks are
coming," would strike a delirium of panic through
a whole settlement. They seem to think they are
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I7ie Mohairks,
still somewhere not far off, and may reappear at
any moment, lint tli()u*j;li tlie Moliawks may liavo
left so blood-stained a memory of themselves, it may
be safely said that there was hardly one tribe better
than another. The pa' to his boy what the Dutch had told
them would not only do no good, but would do
harm. The advice was speedily acted on ; two
blows ot in axe on his head, as the two were re-
turnino; from ])riiyer outside the villajxe, stretclied
the martyr lifeless, and poor Rene's body was
then draii^ed to the bed of a rivulet, from which a
heav^y storm washed it, throuii;]i the ni:^
251
Narrative of Father Jogues.
and ten hours togctlier in prayer, before a rude
cross wliicli he had set up. But his masters liaviug
found out how lie spent liis time, broke liis cross,
felled trees close to him to terrify him, and when he
returned to the wio;wam with his load, played him
a thousand cruel tricks, to
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262
Indian Dancing.
of different colors was lavishly expended on them.
One had his nose a bri<2;ht blue ; his eyes, eydids,
and cheeks, black ; and the rest of his face a lively
red. Others had streaks of red, black, and blue,
drawn from the ears to the mouth. Others were
all black, except the top of the f(jrehead, and the
parts round the ears, and the tip of the chin. Two
lads amused me by the pride they evidently took in
their faces ; that of the one being ornamented by a
stroke of vermilion, broad and bright, upward and
downward, from each corner of the mouth, in a
slanting direction ; while that of the other rejoiced
in a broad streak of red and blue, straight across
his cheeks, from each side of his nose. The
solemnities consisted of speechessfrom their orators,
which were fluent enough, and were accompanied
with a great deal of gesticulation, but were totally
incomprehensible to me. Then followed a dance,
in which all the men joined ; some women, sitting
in the middle, beating a rude drum with a bone,
while the men formed in a circle outside, and each
commenced moving slowly round, lifting his legs as
high as possible, at the risk, I thought, of throwing
the dancer before him off his balance, bv some
unhappy accident, which, however, they w^ere skil-
ful enough to avoid. Meanwhile, the orchestra
kept up a monotonous thumping, accompanied by
a continuous grunting noise, which passed for sing-
ing:. There could be nothinor more ludicrous than
to see them with all solemnity pacing round, each
Indian Loyalty.
263
with a leg in the air, as if they had been doing
something awfully important. Dancing ended,
the reward of their labors followed. A huge kettle,
hanging from a stout pole, over a fire close by,
proved to have for its contents the carcass of a
large dog — one of the many who prowl round all
wiiiwams — but it must have been fattened for
the occasion, as they are lean enough generally.
Hands and mouths were the only implements for
the repast, but they served the [lurpose. The })oor
dog made its way, with amazing ra|)idity, down the
crowd of hungry throats ; but the sight so disgusted
IRC that I hastily left them.
The Indians are very loyal in every part of
British America. A number of old men are still
alive who hold medals for their services in the war
of 1812-14 with the United States, and very proud
they are of them. I remember finding a deputation
from some tribe returnino; from a visit to the Gov-
ernor-General, on board one of the lake steamers,
and was struck with the great silver medal, almost
like a porter's badge, which the eldest wore on his
breast, with the well-known profile of King George
III. on it. By the way, one of the three or four
Indians of the party was the handsomest man of
the race I ever saw — tall, of full figure, w.tli ex-
quisite features, and soft curling hair. He must
surely have been partly white. The dress they wore
showed strikingly the meeting of the old wildnesa
and the new civilization. That of the old bearer
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of the medal consisted of ii very brijad-briinined,
liigli-erowned, and hroad-belted blaek hat — such
a liut as I never saw except anion^j; the Indians,
and which nnist liave been niade from a pattern
specially designed to please them by its extraoiili-
nary size ; a light brown shabby fi'ock-coat, with
very short tails and large brass buttons ; a great
white blanket thrown over it, and a pair of ordinary
trowsers, with moccasins on his feet, 'completing the
costume. There was a great slit in his ears for
ornaments ; a string of wamjmm hung round his
neck, and in one hand lay a long Indian pipe, while,
from the other, the skin of a fox, made into a
tobacco-pouch, hung at his side. One of the others
had leggino;s instead of trowsers, with broad bands
of beads at the knees to fasten them, and a bag
about the size of a lady's reticule, wuth a deej) fringe
of green threads nine or ten inches long, all round
it, hung from his arm. I have no doubt that even
the feeble remnant of the race that still survives
would at once otfer to fight for our Queen if their
services should ever unfortunately be needed.
" Their great motlier across the waters " is the object
of as much loyal pride to them as to any of her
countless subjects. Some years ago a United States
officer was removing some Indians from the settled
parts to the other side of the Mississippi, and had
encamped one day, when he saw a party approach-
ing. Taking out his glass, he found that they were
Indians, and forthwith sent off an Indian from liis
V"
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205
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the strange In(ii''
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270
Indian Hymn.
existed only in manuscript, so far as he knew
Here it is :
"THE INDIAN'S PRAYEB.
" In (Ic (lark wood, no Liflian nigh,
Don nic look li(.'l)'ii, and send up cry,
Ui)on my knee so low ;
Dat (Jod on liigli, in shiny place,
See inc in nijrht wid teary faee,
INlv heart, him tell me so,
" Iliui send him angel, take me care,
Iliin come himself, and hcarum prayer,
If Indian heart do pray.
Him see mc now, him know mc here,
Him say, ' Poor Indian, never fear,
Ale wid you night and day.'
" So mc lub God wid inside heart.
He tight for me, he takum part,
He sahe em life before.
God luh poor Indian in de wood,
And mc lul) He, and dat be good.
Me pray Him two time more.
"When mc be old, mc head be gray,
Den Him no Icab me, so Him say,
' Me wid you till you die.'
Den take me up to shiny place,
See white man, red man, black man face
All happy 'like * on high."
One day, in the second summer we were on the
« t. e. I alike.
Lake Huron.
271
river, the clertiyinan asked me, in passing, if I
would like to go up Lake Huron with him, on a
missionary visit to a settlement of Indians, and of
course I told him I sliould. It was soon settled
when we sliould start, which we did in a little boat,
two men iioiiiii' with us to take charge of it. We
had oars with us, but the boat was too heavy for
their easy use, and we trusted to a sail, the cord
from which one of us held in his hand, to prevent
any sudden gust from upsetting us. We were
soon out on the glorious Lake Huron, which, like
all the gi'cat lakes, cannot be distinguished from
the sea by ordinary eyes ; but we did not attempt
to get out of sight of the coast, intending to run
into it if any sudden storm should rise. As dark-
ness set in, the sight overhead was beautiful beyond
any thing, I think, I ever saw. The stars came
out so large and bright, that it seemed as if you
could see behind them intc the depths beyond.
They seemed to hang down like globes of light
from the great canopy of the heavens. It was
deliciously calm, the soft wind from behind, as it
gently swelled the sail, serving to make the feeling
of repose the more perfect. After sailing a day
and a night, and the half of the next day, we at
last reached the point where we were to land — a
narrow tongue of sand, along which a stream, flow-
ing through an opening in the sand-hills that line
the coast, crept into the lake. It took us the rest
of the afternoon to row as far as we wished, and
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272
A Niijlit of Horrors.
to get our supper of beef aiul soiue liard ef; I
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An Indian tb'cUlement,
us directly inland, over the lin :
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280
The Humming-hird,
tired. They seem, for a great part of tlieir time,
to feed on such insects, the stomach of several
humming-birds, I have heard, liaving been found
full of them when opened. There is a charming
account in a Philadelphia magazine of one vvhicli
showed greater familiarity with man than has ever
been known from any other of its species.* One
of the younoj ladies of a family was sitting at an
open window, when a humming-bird flew in, very
feebly, and dropped on the floor, apparently
exhausted. To pick it up was the work of a
moment ; and the thought that it might be tired
and hungry, after a long flight, forthwith set its
friend to try whether she could tempt it to eat
any thing. Mixing some cream and sugar, and
pouring a little of it into the cup of a bell-shaped
flower, the beautiful creature, to her great deliglit,
at once began to sip, and gathering strength as he
did so, by and by flow ofl" through the window
once more. Next day, and every day thenceforth,
throuorli the summer, the little thino; came back
about the same time, for another repast, fluttering
against the window, if it happened to be shut ; and
whenever he had not got enough, flying backwards
and forwards close at hand, in great restlessness till
a fresh supply had been manufactured. It did not
matter who w%as in the room, the sight of the
flower held out brought him in, when he was wait^
* Quoted in Gosse's " Canadian Naturalist."
Canada good for the Poor,
281
ing for his meal ; iiuleed, his natural timidity
seemed to have been entirely laid aside. Late in
the season, a day passed without his visit, and they
found that, in all probability, he had flown ofi' to
the south for the winter. Whether he came back
again the next s})ring has not been recorded.
Some of the settlers in the bush, back from the
river, were striking examples of the benefits a poor
man may get from coming to such a country as Can-
ada. I used often to go back on various errands,
and was always delighted with the rough plenty of
farmers who, not many years ago, had been labor-
ers at home, with only a few shillings a week for
wages. Now, by steady labor and sobriety, many
amongst them were proprietors of a hundred acres
of excellent land, and sat down at each meal to a
table which even well-to-do people in England
are not in the habit of enjoying. But there were
some cases of failure, which no less strongly
brought the peculiar circumstances of the country
before me. Ten miles away from us, and lying
back from the river, a person who had been a
baker in London, but had determined to turn
farmer, had settled some years before. He built a
log'-house, and cleared a patch, but it was slow
work, as he had to bring on his back all the flour
and potatoes, or what his household needed, the
whole way from the river, through the forest, over
swamps, and every other difficulty that lay in his
road. After a time he fell ill of fever and ague —
24*
iti]
„,<
282
A Bush Story of 3Iufortune.
the great curse of new or low-lying districts in
Canada and the States. For eight months he
could do no work, and meanwhile his family were
driven to the greatest straits to keep themselves
alive. At last, he was able to get about once
more. Every thing was behind with him, but he
was still unbroken in spirit. But now came a new
trial : a great tree, winch had been left standing
near his house, fell down across it, breaking in the
roof, though foitunately without killing any one.
The axe and patience offered the means of escap-
ing from this misfortune also ; and, before long,
the tree was removed, and the shattered dwelling
restored. For awhile all went on well enough
after he had thus once more got on his feet. But
his troubles were not yet at an end. Coming
home one night with a heavy load, on his weary
ten miles' road from the front, in crossing a swamp
on a round log, his foot slipped, and a sharp stake
ran through his boot deep into the flesh, impaling
him, as it were, for a time. How he got home I
know not, but of course he left his load behind
him, and had to crawl to his house as best he
could. This last calamity fiiirly crushed his hopes
of success ; and, on recovering, he abandoned his
land, moved with his family to a town eighty miles
off, and took service at his old trade, in which,
after a time, he was able to recommence business
on his own account.
When the roads got pretty dry in the summei"
Statute Labor.
283
time, we were all summoned by the " patlimaster "
of our neighborhood — a dignitary who is elected
annually to superintend the repairs of the different
roads — to do our statute labor. As money to pay
a substitute was out of the question, we had, of
course, ourselves to shoulder shovels, and turn out
for the six days' work required of us. My three
elder brothers, and a number of neighbors, were on
the ground on the day appointed, but they were an
hour or two later than they would have required
any laborers they might have hired to have been,
and they forthwith commenced their task. It was
amusing to see how they managed to get through
the time, what with smoking, discussing what was
to be done, stopping to chat, sitting down to rest,
and all the manoeuvres of unwilling workers. A
tree had to be cut up at one part and hauled together
for burning off; a ditch dug from nowhere to no-
where, at some other point ; a bridge to be repaired,
at a third, by throwing a log or two across it, in the
places from which broken ones had been drawn out ;
a mud hole filled up, at a fourth ; and the corduroy
road, over a swamp, made more passable, at a fifth,
by throwing a large quantity of branches on it,
and covering them deeply with earth, so as to get a
smooth surface. " I guess I've done more for the
Queen, nor she's done for me," said John Courtenay,
as he sat down for the tenth time. " I'll take it
easy now, the boss is up the road," the " boss "
b^^ing the pathmaster, who had gone off to anothei
fell
284
Tortoises,
gang at some distance. You may be sure ouf
engineering was very poorly clone, but it was all
we had to look to to keep the roads passable at all
in the wet weather. The vacant lots, every here
and there, were the greatest hindei'ance to any im-
provements worthy the name, nobody caring to re-
pair the road through an absentee's land, though
all suffered from its beino; neo;lected.
There were a number of tortoises in the ponds,
in the woods, and by the roadside, and they used to
give us a good deal of amusement. They were of
all sizes, but generally not very large, and were
really beautiful in the markings of their shells,
when you had them close at hand. But to get
near enough for this was the difficulty. They
used to come out of the water, in the middle of the
day, to sun themselves, or to sleep, on the dry logs
which lay over it, and the great point was to try to
keep them from plumping off in an instant, rather
than making to the land. It w^as all but hopeless
to try it, but we would not give it up. Sometimes
we came upon them, away from the water a little,
and then we had it all our own way with them.
They move very awkwardly on the ground, and
seem too stupid to do even as much as they might,
but they must not be handled incautiously, for they
give terrible snaps with their horny mouths, which
are like the sides of a smith's vice for hardness and
strength of hold. A poor Scotchman who came
out one summer, found this out to his cost. He
Tortoises.
285
had been coming down the road, and saw a lar^xe
tortoise, or " mud-turtle," as tlie Canadians call
them, apparently sound asleep at the edge of the
creek. Of course, he thought he had come on a
treasure, and determined to catch it if possible.
Stealing, therefore, breathlessly, up to the spot, ho
made a grab at it before it suspected danger, and
in a minute had it swinmno; over his shoulder by its
foreleg. The leg was short, and the round sliield
that covered the creature was therefore close up to
his head. He thought he would take it home, and
show the good folks this wonder of the woods ;
perhaps he thought of taming it, or of making combs
for his wife out of its back shell. At any rate, on
he jogged quite proud of his acquisition. He would
soon get over the five miles more he had to walk,
and then what excitement there would be at the
sight of such a creature. But, by this time, the
turtle had recovered presence of mind enough to
look round him, and accordingly poked his head
out, and in doing so came invitingly close to his
captor's ear, on which his two jaws closed in a
moment. If ever a prisoner had his revenge he
had it. The Scotchman might have pulled his ear
off, in trying to get free, but notliing short of that
seemed of any use. He could not let go the leg,
for that would leave the whole weight of the turtle
hanging from his ear, and he could not keep his
arms up without getting cramps in them. ' But he
had to try. In misery, with his wretched ear bent
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286
Tortoises,
down close to the shell, and his liands inimovahly
raised to the same shoulder tlie whole way, he had
to plod on, the whole distance, to his house, wherv
his appearance created no small alarm as he came
near. Nothinji could even then be done to loosen
the creature's hold ; it was like a vice, — until at
last they maniitred to relieve him, by getting the
head far enough out to cut it otf", after which the
jaws were at last parted, and the sufferer allowed
to tell his luckless adventure.
One of our neio-hbors used to shock our notions of
propriety by eating the " turtles" he caught.
" There are fish, there are flesh, and there are
fowl on a turtle," he used to say in his bad English,
in describing their charms, but the worthy jNIanks-
man got no one to join him in his appreciation of
them. The Indians have a kind of relioious ven-
eration for them, and would not, on any account,
do them any harm. I knew one who acted as in-
terpreter at a missionary station, who used to say
that the hardest trial he had had, after he be-
came a Christian, was one day in summer, when,
having pounced upon a tortoise, he took it on his
back to carry it home, and was overtaken by a
dreadful storm of thunder and lightnincr. He said
that he could hardly get over the thought, that it
was because he had offended the sacred creature,
and this notion fairly made him perspire with terror ;
but he had the courage to resist his alarm, and
after the sky had cleared, he lifted it once more on
TJie Hay Season.
287
his shoulder, and went liome resolved never to
yield to fear of such a kind a<:!;ain.
The hay in the neighborhood was mown about
the end of June, and as our own su})|)ly was, as
yet, far short of our requirements, we had to buy a
quantity. To get it cheaper, we undertook to send
our wajTon to the field for it, and brino; it home
ourselves. Henry and I were detailed for this
service, and started one morning with the oxen and
the wagon, a frame of light j)oles having been laid
on the ordinary box to enable us to pile up a suffi-
cient load. I had to get inside, while Henry forked
up the hay from the cocks on the ground, my part
being to spread it about evenly. We got on famous-
ly till the load was well up in the frame, the oxen
moving on from one cock to another, through the
stumps, at Henry's commands, but without any
special guidance. All at once, while they were
going at the rate of about two miles an hour, the
wheels on one side e;raduallv rose, and before I
could help myself, over went the whole frame, hay
and all, on the top of Henry, who was walking at
the side. The oxen had pulled the load over a
hillock at the foot of a stump. I was sent clear of
the avalanche, but Henry was thrown on his back,
luckily with his head and shoulders free, but the
rest of his body embedded in the mass. Neither of
us was hurt, however, and we laughed heartily
enough, after we had recovered our self-possession,
the first act being to stop the oxen, who were
m'.\
■'ir 'i
il
a^i
288
Henri/ and I nearly Droivned,
it' S:
marcliiiig off with tlie four wheels, as solemnly as
ever, and liad no idea of eoniino; to a halt without
orders. OF course we had to (dear the frame, o-et
it set up again on the wafjjon, and fork up all the
liay once more, but we took care of the oxen the
second time, and met no more accidents.
Henry and I were very nearly drowned, shortly
after this, in that great lumbering canoe of ours, by
a very ridiculou(fe act on our own parts, and an
unforeseen roughening of the water. Some bricks
were needed to rebuild the chinmey, and they
could not be had nearer than the opposite side of
the river. Henry and I, therefore, set off in the
forenoon to get them, and crossed easily enough.
We went straight over, intending to paddle down
the shore till we reached the place where the
bricks were to be had, about two miles below.
Having nothing to hurry us, and the day being
uncommonly bright and beautiful, we made no
attempt to be quick, but drew tlie canoe to the
land, and sallied up the bank to get some ears of
Indian corn which were growing close by, and
offered great attractions to our hungry stomachs.
At last, after loitering by the w^ay for an hour or
two, we reached our destination, bought the bricks,
and paddled our canoe some distance up a stream
to get near them, that we might the more easily get
them on board ; but ignorance is a bad teacher,
even in so simple a matter as loading a canoe with
bricks. We had no thought but how to pack
Henry and I nearly Drowned.
289
them all in at once, so tliat we shouM not liavp to
come over a'i
i
m
.M"^^'V'i
290
Henry and I nearly Droicned.
% i
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with tills slight agitation. We had ^jot over tin's
trouble when we found, to our alarm, on m'ttiiKr
out from the shelter of the land, that the wind was
getting up, freshly enough to make the mid-stream
quite rough. If we had known the extent of our
dano-er we would have turned back and unloaded
some of our cargo, but no such notion occurred to
us. We therefore determined to make the best of
our way across ; but it was easier determined than
done. The wind and the short chopping waves
together very soon took the management of our
frail bark out of our hands, twisting the canoe
round and round, in spite of all our efforts. Every
little while we would get into the trough of the
stream, and the water would run along from the
bow to the stern, shining over the few inches on
which depended our hope and life ; then, some
would find its way in. The bricks got quite wet.
The empty space in which I sat was filled to my
ankles with water, and Henry shouted that it was
the same at his end. " Paddle hard, George, for
your life — paddle, paddle, and we may get over ; "
and paddle both of us did, at the very top of our
strength. We must have been making way swiftly,
but owing to the noise of the wind, and the confu-
sion of mind we were in, for neither of us could
swim a stroke, we could hot find out whether we
made any progress, and, to add to our bewilder-
ment, round went the head of the canoe the wrong
way, once and again, in spite of us. "Shall I
over this
II iii'ttniii
wind was
id-stream
lit of our
unloaded
c'urred to
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the canoe
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orge, for
et over ; "
op of our
y swiftly,
le confu-
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bewilder-
he wrong
" ShaU I
Henry falls 111.
291
throw out the bricks, Henry?" I cried. "Yes,
if you can • " but it was next to impossible to do it.
I did, indeed, nianalay,
and, everywhere, dirt reigned in undisturbed pos-
session. Having got the medicine, I quickly
regained the canoe, and paddled liome as raj)idly
as possible. But, instead of getting better, poor
Henry seemed rather to get worse, so tliat I liad
to set oif a second time, with a long account of the
symptoms, on paper, to hand to the doctor. This
time, tliank God, he hit on the right prescription,
and I had the unspeakable pleasure of seeing the
poor sufferer greatly relieved by an infusicn we got
inf».de for him when I returned. I verily believe
tliat if he had had no one to go over the river for
him he must have died.
"' The want of sufficient medical help, and too
often the inferior quality of what you can get, is
one of the m'eatest evils of living; in the backwoods.
Henry all but died a year or two after this, fi-om
the treatment he had to undero;o at the hands of a
self-stvled doctor, who came to the neio;hborhood
for a time, and left it when his incompetency was
found out. The illness was a very serious one —
brain fever — and the treatment resorted to was
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294
BacJcwood Doctors.
bleeding and depletion, till life nearly ebbed away
from slieer exhaustion. The poor fellow was made
to take medicine enough almost to kill a stronf^
man ; and was so evidently sinking, that the other
imnates of the house determined to send over for
old Dr. Chamberlain, who had before saved him,
when I went to him. " Killed with too much
medicine," was all he raid, when he had seen the
wasted form of the patient, and heard the stoiy ;
*' if he should get tliroiigli it, it will be in spite of
what has been done, not by its means." He did
get through, but it was a long, weary struggle. I
have known a person come twenty miles in search
of a medical man for his wife, and when he reached
his house, be bitterly disappointed to find the doc-
tor oft' ten miles in an opposite direction. Mr.
Spring, up the river, had good cause to remember
his being at the mercy of an uneducated practi-
tioner. He was going in the dark, one winter
night, to a friend's house, about two miles off',
when suddenly slipping on a piece of ice, he fell
violently on his knee. Trying to rise, he found he
had injured the cap, so that he could not walk.
He had, therefore, to crawl back home again, in the
keen cold of a Canadian night, along the road,
over the field, and down the steep bank, all cov-
ered thickly witli snow. The " doctor," who lived
five miles off", was, of course, sent for next morning
as early as possible. But it would, perhaps, have
been better if he had never been sent for at all, for
Backwood Doctors.
295
he bandaged the leg so tiglitly as ahnost to bring
on mortification ; and tliis he did, too, without
attempting to bring the broken parts together.
The result was a hopelessly stiff leg, after the suf-
ferer had endured many weeks of pain.
We had occasional visits of gentlemen, who join-
ed the medical profession with other pursuits.
They would cure a fever, or act as dentists, and
announced their arrival by calls from house to house.
A friend of mine, who had unfortunately lost a
front tooth, thought he had better take advantage
of such an opportunity, especially as he was going
in a short time up Lake Huron to a public dinner.
" But," said he, when relating the circumstance,
" the fellow was a humbug ; he put in a hickory
peg to hold the new tooth, and when I was in
the middle of my dinner it turned straight out,
and stuck before me, hke a tusk, till I got it tugged
out.
»>
There was a medical man of a very different
stamp who came among us some years after this,
when I hau left the river, and of whom I have
heard some curious stories. Dr. White — let that
be his name — had been in large practice in Ireland,
but had unfortunately fallen into dissipated habits,
which compelled him to emigrate. To raise the
means of reaching Canada, his wife had sold an
annuity she enjoyed on her own life, after his engag-
ing that he would give up his intemperate habits.
He first settled in one of the towns, but afterwards
296
Backwood Doctors.
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came to our part, and bon«:5lit a farm, iiitonding to
help his income by working it. His old habit,
however, to the regret of all, broke out again, and
destroyed his prospects, in spite of his being looked
up to, throughout the district, as the best "• doctor "
in it. People often came from a distance to consult
him, and were doomed to find him lielj)less ; and
this, of course, speedily ruined his practice. In-
stances of his skill, however, still linger in the minds
of many in the settlement, accompanied with great
regret, that a man at once so clever and comely
should liave been so great an enemy to himself.
He had a rough humor sometimes, when he was a
little under the mfluence of drink, which was very
diveitinii;. Hvnry was one nio;ht at his house in
the winter, when a rap came to the door. The
others being busy, Henry rose to o])en it, and found
two men, who had come through the frightful cold
to get the doctor's assistance. The one, it appeared,
could not speak, from some abscess or boil in his
throat, which he had come to get lanced or other-
wise treated. On being taken into the hall, which
had a stove in it, and was comfortable enough, the
doctor made his apj)earance, and walked uj) to the
sufferer with a candle in his hand. " What's the
matter with you ? " The patient sim])ly opened
his mouth wide, and pointed into it with his fingers.
*' Let me see," said White. '' Open your mouth,
sir " — taking the candle out of the candlestick,
and holding it close to the poor fellow's face. The
Backwood Doctors.
297
mouth was, of course, instantly opened as widely
as possible, and the blazing candle was as instantly
sent dash into it, as far as it would o-o, raisino; a
yell from the })atient that might have been heard
over the next farm, which was followed by a rush
outside the door to clear his mouth, as he seemed
half choked. " Bring a light here," cried White,
coming to the door quite coolly. " How do you
feel, sir ? " The blow with the soft candle, the
fright, and the yell, all together, had wrought a
miracle on the poor fellow. His trouble was clean
gone. " I'm better, sir — what's to pay ? " " Noth-
ing at all," replied White; "good night to you,"
and the scene was over. Henry laughed, as he
well might, at such an incident ; and after awhile
ventured to ask the doctor if there were no instru-
ments that would have done ? " Certainly there
are, but do you think I'd dirty my instruments on
a fellow like that? the candle would do well
enouo-h." Poor White died some time after, throuo;h
intemperance. His widow and family were enabled
to ^t back to Ireland by the sale of all the effects
he had ; and on their arrival, his friends took charge
of the children, and the widow went out as a gover-
ness to India.
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i l"t tor tlie great country across tho
river. Tlieychd not lind life veiy sunny, liowever,
even in tlie States, and l)oth liad hard struggles at
lirst to ixet on. l*oor Fredrrick, indeed, never i^ot
very far \\\) in the world, a lever cutting him ott'
seme years after, wIk'H he was on a journey in the
South, lie died without a creature he knew ni'ar
him, and indeed we did not know that ho Avas
ij;ono till nearly a year after. l)a\id gradually
made his way, and has long been comfortal)ly set-
tled in a rising town in one of the Western States ;
hut his advancement rose from his luivino; had the
good fortune to buy some land where a town grew
up shortly after, which enabled him to make a
good deal of money. Our household, when they
liad left us, was very quiet compared with the ])ast
— only Robert, Henry, and I remaining, with my
two sisters as the mistresses of the mansion.
What a curious Robinson-Crusoe life we led in
many ways in those first years. A barrel raised
on a stand, the bottom full of holes, and covered
with a layer of straw, and a number of chaimels
iiouoed out in the board cm which it rested, formed
the primitive machine for our soajvmaking. All
the ashes from the fires were thrown into the bar
rel, and, when it was full, a quantity of water
poured into it made the alkaline lev that was
needed, a pail at the edge of the board below
26*
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806
Soap-makinij.
catching it as it drained off. In summer time it
was enouo;li merely to throw this ley into another
barrel, put in the fat left from our daily table, and
stir the mixture together now and then, and the
sun made soap of it, without any further trouble on
our j)art. In colder weather it had to be put on
the fire until the desired transmutation had been
effected. The ley looked so yery like strong tea,
that I was often afraid of some accident, where any
of it had been left in a cup or bowl. To drink it
would have been certain and awful death, as we
did not then know how to neutralize the effect if
we had taken it. Noah Nash, a young lad in the
neighborhood, was all but fatally poisoned by it one
day ; indeed, nothing sayed him but his presence
of mind, and the fact that he had an acid in the
house. Chancing to come in yery much heated,
and seeing a cupful of nice strong-looking tea in
the window, he swallowed nearly the whole of it
before he had time to think that, instead of tea, it
was the terrible alkali that had been drawn from
tho ashes. The serious consequences of his mis-
take flashed on him in an instant. Snatchino- a
tumbler, he ruslied to tlie cellar, where, })roy-
identially, there h!ii)])ened to be a barrel of vinegar,
and in a moment filled the glass, and drank down
successiye draughts of it, and was thus sayed, the
acid effectually neutralizinij; the alkali in the stom-
ach ; but, quick as he had been, his mouth and
throat were burned to such a degree by the potash,
Home-made Candles,
307
^
that the skin of the mouth peeled away, day after
day, m strips, and he had to be fed on the simplest
preparations long afterwards. Our candles were a
branch of home manufacture in which we rather
excelled after a time, though, to tell the tmth, the
ijuantity used was not very great. We had
l)()iio;ht candle-moulds of tin, and put aside any fat
suiuible for candles, till we had enovigh to make
what woidd fill them ; and then, what threading
the wicks into the moulds at one end, and tvinii;
them over little pieces of \>ood at the other — what
proud encomiums over one that kept ftiir in the
middle — what a lauMi at another which had in
some eccentric way run down one side of the tal-
low, leaving the whole round of the candle undis-
turbed by any intrusion of the cotton. But we
would not have made the fortune of any tallow-
chandler had we had to buy all we burned, for we
only lighted ne at tea, or for a minute or two on
going .0 .1, or to enable some one to read, when
a craving for literary food set in. Lumps of pine,
fuU of resin, were our more customary style of
illumi lation, its flaming brightiiess, leaping and
flarino- thouorh it was, sufficincc tor our ordinary
requirements. We used to sit for hours round the
fire, talking and dozino; ; to read was a huge efibrt,
after hard work all day, and it M-as too cold, while
tlie fire was kept up, to sit at any distance from it.
In some houses. .!. h' ve 'vuown candles kept as
sacredly for doing h rior (o a stranger as if they
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308
Mude Accommodation.
ii^
had been made of silver. A rag in some grease,
in a saucer, usually served for a lamp, and an inch
or two of candle was only brought out when a
guest was about to retire. Many a ti)'ie I have
known even visitors, in the rough bush, sent to bed
in the dark. We were, however, in some things,
wonderfully before the people settled back from the
river. Most of them were content to put up with
the very rudest accommodation and co • ^eniences ;
one room, containing several beds, jlteu holding
not only a whole household, but any passiiig stran-
ger. How to get out and in, unseen, was the
great difficulty. I have often been in trouble about
it myself, but it must surely have been worse for
the young women of the family. As to any basin
or ewer in the room, they were Capuan luxuries in
the wild bush. " I'll thank you for a basin, Mrs.
Smith," said I, one morning, anxious to make my-
self comfortable for the day, after having enjoyed h' i
husband's hos])itality overnight. It was gloriousi\
bright outside, though the sun had not yet shown
himself over the trees. " Come this way, Islr.
Stanley ; I'll give it you here," said Mrs. Smith.
Out she went, and lifted a small round tin pie-dish,
that would hold hardly a quart, poured some water
into it from the pail at the door, which held the
breakfast water as well, and set it on the top u? u
stump, close at hand, with the injunction to " niok •
haste, for there was a hole in the bottom, and if I
didn't be quick the water would all be gone."
>i-U
Writing Letters.
309
Luckily, I was all ready ; but there was no offer of
soap, and so I had to make my hands fly hither and
thither at a great rate, and finish as best I could by
a hard rubbing with a canvas towel.
To write a letter in those days was by no means
a light task. Ink was a rare commodity, and stood
a great deal of water before it -was doni?. When
we had none, a piece of Indian-ink served pretty
well ; and when that was lost, we Used to mix
gunpowder and vinegar together, and make a kind
of faintly-visible pigment out of the two. The only
paper we could get was dreadful. How cruelly the
pen used to dab through it ! How invincibly
shabby a letter looked on it ! The post-office was
in a store kept by a French Canadian, and was
limited enouo;h in its arranojements. I remembei
taking a letter one day a little later than was right,
as it appeared. " The m'ail's made up, Mr. Stanley,"
said the post-master, " and it's against the law to
open it when it's once sealed ; but I suppose I may
as well oblige a friend." So saying, he took down
a piece of brown paper from the shelf behind him,
cut round some seals which were on the back of it,
and exposed the " mail ; " which, forsooth, I found
consisted of a single letter ! Mine was presently
laid peaceftdly at the side of this earlier sharer of
postal honor, and I hope did not make the bundle
too heavy for the mail-boy's saddle-bags.
It used to amuse us to see how readily every one
round us took to new occupations, if any thing
m
;*'
Iffflf
310
^ew Occupations.
m'A
hindered his continuing the one in whicli he had
previously been engaged. You would hear of a
tailor turning freshwater sailor, and buying a flat-
bottomed scow, to take goods from one part of the
river to another ; one shoemaker turned miller, and
another took to makino; and selling " lumber." A
young lad, the son of a minister, who wished to get
- j-^ood education, first iiired himself out to choj)
e. 1-wood, and when he had made enough to buy
books, and keep a reserve on hand, he engaged
with a minister over the river, who had an " acad-
emy," to give him tuition, in return for liaving his
horse cleaned, and the house-wood split. Working
thus, he gained Latin and Greek enough to go to
college ; but had to return to his axe, and work for
another winter, to get money to pay the expenses
of the first session. This obtained, off lie set, and
ended by taking the degree of M. A. at Yale College,
Connecticut. In the mean time, however, a change
had passed over liis mind as to becoming a clergy-
man ; and instead of seeking a church, he went in-
to partnership with his brother in the patent medi-
cine trade, in which calling, I suppose, he is now
engao-ed in one of the United States' cities.
I was once travelling on a winter night, in a
public stage, on the edge of Lake Ontario. The
vehicle was a high wagon, with a linen cover
stretched over around framework, lik« a gipsy tent.
I was the only passenger, and had taken my place
in the body of the machine. This did not suit the
The Parson for Driver,
311
driver, however, who seemed to feel lonely ; and,
after a time, turning round to me, said — "I guess
we'd be better to";ether this cold niMit. Come this
way — wont you? " Of course, I instantly com-
plied ; and then received, among much various
information on matters interesting to coach-drivers,
a narrative of his own life, a portion of which I
still remember :
** I'm a reg'lar preacher, you see," said he. *^ I
was on the circuit round Framley for one turn, and
they promised pretty fair, but I didn't get enough
to keep house on. Then I got changed to Dover
circuit, and that was worse. Says I to my wife —
' Wife,' says I, ' preachin' wont keep our pot bilin,'
anyhow — I must scare up somethin' else, somehow.*
So I heard that there was a new stage to be put on
at Brownsville ; and I Avent to Squire Brown, and
told him that, if he liked, I'd drive it ; and so,
here I am — for, you see, the mail-stage has to go,
even if a parson should have to drive it ;" and he
ended with a broad grin and a long laugh — ha —
ha — ha I
"' H
'<.,ll
312
Americanisms.
-jitf _
CHAPTER XIX.
Americanisms. — Our poultry. — The wasps. — Their nests. —
" IJob's " skill In killing them. — Raccoons. — A hunt. — Rac-
coon cake. — The town of Busaco. — Summer " sailing " — Boy
drowned. — French settlers.
WE were struck, as every new comer is, by the
new meanings put by Canadians on woids,
tlie new connections in which they used them, and
the extraordinary way in wliich some were pro-
nounced. Of course, we heard people " guessing "
at every turn, and whatever any one intended
doing, he spoke of as " fixing." You would hear
a man say, that his wagon, or his chimney, or his
gun, must be " fixed ; " a girl would be ready to
take a walk with you, as soon as she had " fixed
herself; " and the baby was always " fixed" in the
mornino;, when washed and dressed for the dav.
" Catherine," said a husband one day to his wife,
in my hearing, pronouncing the last syllable of her
name, so as to rhyme with line, " I calculate that
them apples '11 want regulatin'," referring to some
that were drying in the sun. *They " reckon " at
every third sentence. A well-informed man is said
to be " well posted up " in some particular subject.
Americanisms.
313
Instead of " wliat," they very commonly say
" hoNV," in asking questions. A Jiony was praised
to me as being *' as fat as mud." In place of our
exclamations of surj)rise at the communication of
any new fact, the hstener will exclaim, '' I want to
know." Any log, or trunk of a tree, or other
single piece of timber, is invariably a " stick," even
if it be long; enouo;li for a mast. All the stock of
a timber-yard is alike " lumber." An ewer is " a
])itcher ; " a tin-pail is " a kettle ; " a servant is " a
help ; " an employer is " a boss ; " a church pew is
" a slip ; " a platform at a meeting is " a stage ;''
children are "juveniles ; " and a baby is " a babe."
In pronouncing the word engine, or ride, or j)<)int,
or any other word with vowels prominent in it, if
you would imitate a Canadian, you would need to
open your mouth very w ide, and make as much of
each sound as you can. Of course, I speak only of
the country folks, native born ; the town })eople,
and the educated classes, generally speak as correctly
as the same classes in England. We cannot help
noticing, moreover, that all these corruptions are
trifling compared with those which we find in the
popular dialects of different parts of our own country.
You can travel all throuiyh Canada and understand
every thing you hear, except a word now and then ;
but at home, to pass from one shire to another is
often like passing to a different people, so far as
regards the language. The great amount of travel-
ling now-a-days compared with the fixed life of our
27 »
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r
41
^■A
f^
314
Our Poultry.
;■ (
:u
forefathers, may serve to account for this. People
of every nation meet in Canada, and all come to
speak very nearly alike, because they move about
so much ; but the various races that settled in
]^]iigland or Scotland ages ago kept together closely,
and consequently each learned to speak in a wa\
of its own.
Our poultry increased very soon after our com-
mencing on the river, until it became quite a flock ;
but we had a good deal of trouble with them. TJie
weasels were very destructive to the chickens, and
so were the lien-hawks, and chicken-hawks, which
W'.'re always prowling round. But the hens man-
aged to beat off the last of these enemies, and a
terrible noise they made in doing so. The whole
barn-yard population used to give Robert great
annoyance, by Hying over the fence he had put up
round a piece of ground set apart as a garden ; but
lie succeeded in terrifying them at last, by rushinif
out with a long whip whenever they made their
a]:)})earance. The very sight of him was enough,
after a time, to send them oif with outstretched
wings and necks, and the most amazing screeches
and cackling ; it was laughable to see their conster-
nation and precipitate flight. Our turkeys were a
nuisance as well as a comfort to us : they were
much given to wandering, and so stupid withal,
that if they once got into the woods we rarely saw
them again. The only plan was to have their wings
cut close, and to keep them shut up in the barn-
Large Qaant'dles of Eggs.
316
yard. In compensation for this trouble, liowevi-r,
we took ample revenge both on tliem and the cocks
and hens, alike in person and in the harvest of eggs,
which formed a main element in most of our dishes.
We needed all we could get. As to eggs, it seemed
as if any quantity would have been consumed.
There was to be a " bee " one time, to raise a second
barn ; and my sisters were in great concern becaus
they could not find out wliere the hens were laying.
At last, they saw one go down a hole in the barn
floor, and instantly concluded they had discovered
the secret hoard. A plank was forthwith lifted,
and there, sure enough, were no less than twenty
dozen of eggs lying in one part or another. It was
hard work to get them out, but Henry and I helped,
and we brought them all to the house. In a week
or ten days there were not two-dozen left. The
men wdio had attended the " bee," and one or two
whom we kept on at wages, had devoured them all
in cakes and puddings, or in the ordinary way.
But what would these bush-fellows not get down ?
One day, we had a laborer with us, and Eliza, to
please him, set out a large glass dish of preserves,
holding, certainly, a pound \\ j;ht at the least.
She thought, of course, he would take a little to his
bread ; but his notions on the subject were very
different, for, drawing the dish to him, and taking
up a tablespoon, he sui)ped down the whole in a
succession of huge mouthfuls. I have known a
hired man eat a dozen of eggs at his breakfast !
I
lv;/
316
Wasps.
«:
The wasps were very numerous round the house
in sunnner. A nest of these creatures ens(;once(l
tliemselves m a hole between two loj^js, in tlie front
j)art of it, and, as they never trouble us, we did not
trouble them. But not so our little terrier, lioli.
The mouth of the nest was about a vard from the
oi'ound, and admitted only one at a time. liehnv
this. Bob would take his seat for hours tooethei-,
watchino; each arrival ; sometimes lettinn; them oi)
in peaceably, but every now and then jum])inii; up
at them, with his lips drawn back, and <2;iviiio; a
snap which seldom failed to kill them. The little
fellow seemed to have quite a passion for wasp-
hunting. The dead proofs of his success would
often lie thick over the ground by evening. How
the colony ever bore up against his attacks I cannot
imagine. One day we saw John Robinson, a la-
borer, whom wc had engaged, rushing down in hot
haste from the top of the field, flinging his arms
al)f>ut in every direction, and making the most
extraordinary bobbing and fighting, apj)arently at
nothing. But, as he got near, he roared out, " I've
tumbled a wasp's-nest, and they're after me," and
tliis was all we could cret out of him for some time.
Indeed they follow^ed him quite a distance. lie
fiad been lifting a log that was imbedded in the
ground, when, behold ! out rushed a whole townful,
sendino; him off at once in iiTjnominious flioht. I
used to think the nests of the wasps, whiclf we
Bometimes found hanging from branches in the
Ilaccoom.
817
woods, most wonderful specimens of insect manu
facture. They were oval in form, with the mouth
at the bottom, and looked often not unlike a clumsily
made boy's to]). But of what material do you
think they were consti;ju'ted ? Of paper — rral
true paper, of a greyish color, made by the wasps
gnawin*;' otf very small pieces of decayed wood,
which thev bruise and work up till it chanues its
character, and becomes as much paj)er as any we
can make ourselves. It is wonderful that men
should not have found out, from such a lesson, the
art of making this most precious production much
sooner than they did.
The raccoons, usually called 'coons, were a great
nuisance when the corn was getting ripe. They
came out of the woods at night, and did a great
deal of mischief in a very short time. We used to
luuit them by torchlight, the torches being stri])s
of hickory bark, or lumps of fat pine. We could
have done nothing, however, without the help of
our dogs, who tracked them to the trees in which
they had taken refuge, and then v •- lot them by
the help of the lights, amidst prodigious excitement
and commotion. It was very dangerous to catch
liokl of one of them if it fell wounded. They
could twist their heads so far round, and their skin
was so loose, that you were never sure you would
not get a bite in wliatever way you held them.
The Weirs, close to us, got skins enough one
autumn to make fine robes for their sleigh. I
27*
I
Si I
f|.;|lil:
wt
' f 1
\
f- ^
' M
:J
J518 A liaccoon Hunt.
never knew but one man who li;i(l eaten raccoon,
.and lie was no wiser tlian he needc'l to be. He
was a farm-laborer, wlio stannnered .ns speecli,
and lived all alone, and was deplorably irn had been sadl} 'ured, and
our own was not much better, so we jtcsolved on
destroying some of the marauders if possible. All
the young fellows for miles up and down the river,
gathered in the afternoon, to get a long talk bel'ore-
liand, and to make every preparation. Some of
us saw to the torches — that there were plenty of
them, and that they were of the right kind of
wood ; others looked to the guns, to have them
properly cleaned, and the ammunition ready. " I
say, Ned Thompson," said one, "I hope you wont
be making such a noise as you did last time, fright-
ening the very dogs." But the speaker was only
told, in return, to keep out of the way of everybody
else, and not run the risk of being taken for a 'coon
himself as he went creeping along. In due time
all work was over for the night on our farm, the
dogs collected^ a hearty supper enjoyed, amidst the
A liaccoon Hunt.
;U9
1 raccoon,
l)c. Ho
IS speccli,
iViiorant.
eh lio had
\K'd me to
n that —
■made a-a
1 him joy
formed a
[r. Weir's
m*ed, and
'solved (111
ible. All
the river,
Ik before-
Some of
plenty of
kind of
ave them
ady. " I
you wont
le, frioht-
was only
verybody
[)r a 'coon
due time
farm, the
midst the
boasts of
1 th
)kes of othuis, :iud off wo
)asts ot some and tne joKes oi oiiieis, .vna
s( t. The moon was very youn«jj, but it luuig in
the clear heavens like a silver ))ow. A short walk
In-ought us to the forest, and here we spread our-
selves, so as to take a larger sweej), intending that
the two wIn||!
1i
in
h^
k
t'
'IkI Mi'
'> i
.:(>«
:ii
■ 1 ()od success after this first hickv
shot, which had been only one of many fired at
what seemed to be the raccoon, but had been only a
knot in the tree, or, |)erha])s, a shadow. We did
not come home till late, when, with dogs almost as
tired as ourselves, the whole party re-assembk'd,
each bearing oft' his spoils with him if he had won
any.
1 was walking nj) the road one aftei'noon with
my brother, when we came to an opening on tlie
right liand, a])j)arently only leading into ])athless
woods. Stopj)ing me, however, Henry turned and
asked, " If I saw yon post stuck up in the Httle
o})en ? " It was some time before 1 could make it
out. At last I noticed what he alluded to — simply
a rough ])ost, six feet high, stuck into the ground,
in the middle of unbroken desolation. "• That's
the centre of the market-place in the town of lUi-
saco, that is to be," said he. ^' All this ground is
surveyed for a city, and is laid out in building lots,
— not in farms." 1 could not help lauirhinir.
There was not a sign of human habitation in sight,
and the post must have been there lor years.
The Town of Busaco,
321
When it will be a town it is very hard to conjec-
ture. It stand'i on the outside of a swam})y belt,
which must have deterred any one from settling in
it, and towns don't go before agricultural improve-
ment, but follow it, in such a country as Canada,
or, indeed, anywhere, except in a merely manu-
facturing district, or at some point on a busy line
of travel. Some time after, a poor man effected
one great step towards its settlement, by a very
unintentional improvement. He had a little
money, and thought that if he dug a deep, broad
ditch, from the swamp to the river, he could get
enough water to drive a mill, which he intended to
build close to the bank. But it turned out, after
the ditch was dug, and his money gone, that the
water, which he thought came into the swamp
from springs, was nothing but rain, that had
lodged in the low places, and had been kept there
by the roots of trees and the want of drainage.
For a time, the stream was beautiful, but, after a
little, the swamp got better, and the stream dimin
ished, until, in a few weeks, the channel was dry,
and the swamp became good land. I hope the poor
fellow had bouo-ht it before commencino; his ditch.
If so, he would make money after all, as his im-
provement raised its value immensely.
A number of the young men of the huml)ler
class along the river, used to go away each summer
"sailing" — that is, they hired as sailors on the
American vessels, which traded in whole fleets
?',, r
90
Summer ^'' Sailing.''^
IS ! ■
It. -4 I,
if,
between the eastern and western towns on the
great lakes. It was a very good thing for them
tliat they could earn money so easily, but the
employment was not always free from danger.
One lad, whom I knew very well — William
Forth, the son of a decent Scotch tailor — was lost
•
in it in the n,utumn of our jcond year. He had
sailed for Lake Superior, and did not return at the
time ex])ected. Then his friends began to be anx-
ious, especially when they heard the news of a
great storm in the north-west. He was never
heard of again, and no doubt perished with all the
crew, his vessel having foundered in the gale.
Years after, it was reported that a schooner, sailing
along the upper coast of Lake Huron, came upon
the wreck of a small ship, down in the clear
waters, and found means of hooking up enough to
show that it was the one in which our poor neigh-
bor's son had been engaged. Curiously and sadly
enough, a second son of the same parents met a
miserable death some years after. He was attend-
ing a threshing-mill, driven by horses, and had for
his part to thrust in the straw to " feed it ; " but
he, unfortunately, thrust it in too far, and was him-
self drawn in, and crushed between the innumera-
ble teeth by which the grain is pressed out. Be-
fore the machine could be stopped, poor James was
cut almost to pieces. Thus even the peaceful St.
Clair had its share in the trials that follow man
mider all skies.
A Boy Drowned.
323
Occasionally, accidents and calamities of this kind
would happen close to us, and I could not but be
struck at the depth of feeling to which they gave
rise amidst a thin population. The tenant on the
only let farm in the neighborhood, who lived a
mile from us, lost a beautiful boy in a most distress-
ing way. There was a wood wharf close to his
house, from the end of which the lad used to bathe
on fine summer evenings. A number of them
were amusing themselves thus, one afternoon,
when Mrs. Gilbert, the wife of the person of wliom
I speak, coming out from her work, chanced to
look at them, and saw one who was diving and
swimming, as she thought, very strangely. A lit-
tle after, they brought her the news that her boy
was drowned, and it turned out that it had been
his struggles at which she had been looking with
such unconcern. The poor woman took to her
bed for weeks directly she found it out, and seemed
broken-hearted ever after.
The number of French in our neighborhood, and
the names of the towns and places on the map, all
along the western lakes and rivers, often struck
me. Beginning with Nova Scotia, we trace them
the whole way — proofs of the sway France once
had in North America. The bays and headlands,
from the Atlantic to the Far West, bear French
names. For instance, Cape Breton, and its capi-
tal, Louisburg, and Maine, and Vermont, in the
States. All Lower Canada was French ; then we
if I
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324
An Indian Device.
«»
?
have Detroit on Lake St. Clair ; Sault Ste. Marie
at Lake Superior ; besides a string of old French
names all down the Mississippi, at the mouth of
which was the whilom French province of Louisi-
ana, on the Gulf of Mexico. Tiiis shows signifi-
cantly the great vicissitudes that occur in the story
of a nation. But our own history has tauHit us
the same lesson. All the United States were once
British provinces.
I hpd come out early one morning, in spring, to
look at the glorious river which lay for miles like a
mirror before me, when my attention was attracted
to a canoe with a great green bush at one end of it,
floating, apparently empty, down the current. I
soon noticed a hand, close at the side, slowly scull-
ing it by a paddle, and keeping the bush down the
stream. As it glided past, I watched it narrowly.
A great flock of wild ducks were splashing and
diving at some distance below ; but so slowly and
silently did the canoe drift on, that they did not
seem to heed it. All at once, a pufF of smoke from
the bush, and the sound of a gun, with the fall of
a number of ducks, killed and wounded, on the
water, plainly showed what it meant. An Indian
instantly rose up in the canoe, and paddled with all
haste to the spot to pick up the game. It was a
capital plan to cheat the poor birds, and get near
enough to kill a good number. There were im-
mense flocks of waterfowl, after the ice broke up,
each yeai' ; but they were so shy that we were
e. Marie
French
louth of
F Loiiisi-
s si'o-nifi-
lie story
■iuo;lit us
ere once
prino;, to
les like a
attracted
3nd of it,
•rent. I
.'ly scull-
lown the
rrowly.
ing and
wly and
did not
\e from
full of
on the
Indian
with all
was a
;et near
ere im-
oke up,
e were
i ,
H:^l
Ml
!UI>'
r %'
Coote^s Paradise,
825
very little the hotter for them. It was very differ-
ent in earlier days, before population increased, and
incessant alarm and pursuit had made them wild,
for the whole province must once have been a
great sporting ground. There is a marsh on Lake
Ontario, not far from Hamilton, called Coote's
Paradise, from the delight which an officer of that
name found in the myriads of ducks, etc., which
thronged it thirty or forty years ago.
28
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325
Apple-bees,
CHAPTER XX.
Apple-bees. — Orchards. — Gorgeous display of apple-blossom. — A
meeting in the woods. — The ague. — Wild parsnips. — Man lost
in the woodia.
w
E had a great deal of nin when our orchard
got up a little, and when we were able to
trade with our neighbors for fruit, in what they
used to call " apple-paring bees." The young folks
of both sexes were invited for a given evening in
the autumn, and came duly provided with apple-
parers, which are ingenious contrivances, by which
an apple, stuck on two prongs at one end, is pared
by a few turns of the handle at the other. It is
astonishing ic ?*^e how quickly it is done. Nor is
the paring all. The little machine makes a final
thrust through the heart of the apple, and takes out
the core, so as to leave nothing to do but to cut
what remains in pieces. The object of all this par-
ing is to get apples enough dried for tarts during
winter, the pieces when cut being threaded in long
strings, and hung up till they shrivel and get a
leather-like look. When wanted for use, a little
boiling makes them swell to their original size
again, and bring back their softness. You may
Orchards,
327
imagine how plentiful the fruit must be to make
such a liberal use of it possible, as that which you
see all through Canada. You can hardly go into
any house in the bush, however poor, without hav-
ing a large bowl of '* apple sass '* set before you —
that is, of apple boiled in maple sugar. The young
folks make a grand night of it when the " bee "
comes off. The laughing and frolic is unbounded ;
some are busy with their sweethearts ; some, of a
grosser mind, are no less busy with the apples,
devouring a large proportion of what they pare ;
and the whole proceedings, in many cases, wind up
with a dance on the barn-floor.
While speaking of orchards and fruit, I am re-
minded of the district along the River Thames,
near Lake St. Clair. To ride through it in June,
when the apple-blossom was out, was a sight as
beautiful as it was new to my old country eyes. A
great rolling sea of white and red flowers rose and
fell with the undulations of the landscape, the green
lost in the universal blossoming. So exhaustless,
indeed, did it seem, even to the farmers themselves,
that you could not enter one of their houses with-
out seeing quantities of it stuck into jugs and bowls
of all sorts, as huge bouquets, like ordinary flowers,
or as if, instead of the blossom of splendid apples, it
had been only hawthorn. Canadian apples are in-
deed excellent — that is, the good kinds. You see
thousand of bushels small and miserable enough,
but they are used only for pigs, or for throwing by
■s-'t'v f
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328
A Meeting in the Woods.
the cartload into cider-presses. The eating and
cooJcing apples would make any one's mouth water
to look at them — so large, so round, so finely tint-
ed. As to flavor, there can surely be nothing
better. Families in towns buy them by the barrel ;
in the country, even a ploughman thinks no more
of eating them than if they were only transformed
potatoes. Sweet cider, in its season, is a very com-
mon drink in many parts. You meet it at the rail-
way-stations, and on little stands at the side of the
street, and are offered it in private houses. Canada
is indeed a great country for many kinds of fruit.
I have already spoken of the peaches and grapes :
the plums, damsons, melons, pears, and cherries,
are equally good, and equally plentiful. Poor
Hodge, who, in England, lived on a few shillings a
week, and only heard of the fine things in orchards,
feasts like a lord, when he emigrates, on all their
choicest productions.
They were wonderful people round us for their
open-air meetings — very zealous and very noisy.
I was on a visit at some distance in the summer-
time, and came on a gathering in the woods.
There were no ministers present, but some laymen
conducted the services. All round, were wagons
with the horses unyoked, and turned round to feed
from the vehicles themselves, as mano-ers. Some
of the intending hearers sat on the prostrate logs
that lay here and there, others stood, and some re-
mained in their conveyances. There was no prep-
lulinns a
Tlie Ague.
329
nration of benches, or convenience of any kind. It
so happened that [ came only at the close. The
proceedings were over, and there was nothing go-
ing on, for some time, but a little conversation
aniono; the leaders. In one wan;on I noticed a
whole litter of pigs, and found, on asking how they
came to be there, that they belonged to a good
woman wlio had no one with whom to leave them
at home, and had brought them with her, that she
might attend to their wants, and enjoy the meetitigs,
at the same time. There were often oj)en-air as-
semblies in the woods. Temperance societies, with
bands of music, drew great crowds. Rough boards
Avere provided for seats, and a rough platform did
for the speeches. All the country side, old and
young, went to them, for most of the pco})le in the
country districts are rigid teetotallers. There are
poor drunkards enough, after all, but it is a wonder
there are no more, when whiskey is only a shilling
or eighteenpence a gallon.
The great plague of the river was the ague, which
seized on a very large number. The poisonous vri-
pors that rise from the undrained soil, in which a
great depth of vegetable matter lies rotting, must be
the cause, for when a district gets settled, and opened
to the sun, so that the surface is dried, it disaj)})ears.
I never had it myself, I am happy to say, but all
my brothers suffered from its attacks, and poor Eliza
shivered with it for months together. It is really a
di'eadful disease. It begins with a burning fever,
28 *
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830
Wild Pars7u'j>8.
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occasioning a thirst wliicli cannot be satisfied by
drinking any quantity of water, and when this passes
oti", every bone shakes, tlie teetli rattle, the whole
frame quivers, with the most agonizing cold. All
the bedclothes in the house are found to be insuifi-
cient to keep the sufferer warm. After a day's
misery like this, the attack ceases, and does not
return till the second day. Its weakening effects
are terrible. If severe, the patient can do nothing
even in the interval of the attacks, and they some-
times continue for seven and eitrht months to the old
recipe for its cure, of a spidor ♦ ped in a glass of
wine and swallowed with # I'hat wa? 'le way,
she said, it had been cured iii ii'T part, and nothing
could be better !
A terrible misfortune befel a worthy man residing
back from the river, one spring, through his son —
a growing boy — eating some wild parsnips in igno-
rance of their being poisonous. The poor litth
Children in the Woods.
331
fellow lingered for a time, and at last died in agony.
This must be reckoned amonij; tlic "isks families run
in the bush. I have known a numb(n' of cases of a
similar kind.
One day we were startled by a man crying to us
from the road that two children of a settler, a few
miles back, were lost in the woods, and that all tlw;
neighbors were out, searching for tliem. We ust
no time in hurrying to the place, and found that
the iiCvTs was only too true. The two little crea-
tures— a sister and brother — had wandered into
the woods to pull the early anemones, which come
out with the wild leeks, by the sides of creeks and
wet places, at the beginning of spring, and they had
gradually nin to one flower after another, till they
were fairly lost. The excitement was terrible.
Men and women alike left every thing, to search
for them. The forest was filled with the sound of
their names, which voice after voice called out, in
hopes of catching an answer. Night came, and all
the searchers returned unsuccessful, but there were
others who kindled lights, and spent the darkness
in their kind efforts. But it was of no use. Two
— three — four — five — six days passed, and the
lost ones were still in the great silent woods. At
last, on the seventh day, they came on them, but
almost too late. The two were lying on the ground
— the little girl dead, the boy far gone. Tender
nursing, however, brought him round, and he was
able to tell, after a while, that they had wandered
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332
Xlos^ in the Woods.
hither and thither, as long as they could, eating the
wild leeks, bitter and burning as they are, until the
two could go no further. He did not know that
his sister was dead till they told him. It was touch-
ing to see his father and mother swayed by the
opposite feelings of grief for the dead, and joy for
the living.
Another time, in the winter, on a piercingly cold
night, we were roused from our seats round the
fire, by the cries of some one at a distance. Going
to the door, we found it was an unfortunate fellow
who had got bewildered by the snow covering the
wagon tracks in a path through the bush, and who
was trying to make himself heard, before the neigh-
bors went to bed. It was lucky for him we had
not done so, for our hours were very early indeed.
It was so cold that we could only stand a few min-
utes at the door by turns, but we answered his
cries, and had the satisfaction of finding that he
was getting nearer and nearer the open. At last,
after about half an hour, he reached the high road,
and was safe. But the fellow actually had not
politeness to come up next day, or any time after,
to say he was obliged by our saving his life.
A poor woman, not far from us, had lost her
husband in the forest, many years before, under
circumstances of peculiar trial. She was then
newly married, and a stranger in the country, and
he had gone out to chop wood at some distance
from their house, but had been unable to find his
Lost in the Woods,
338
"m»>> back. His wife and neighbors searched long
and earnestly for him, but their utmost efforts failed
to find him. Months passed on, and not a word
was heard of him, until, at last, after more than a
year, some persons came upon a human skeleton,
many miles from the place, lying in* the woods,
with an axe at its side, the clothes on which showed
that it was the long-lost man. He had wandered
further and further from his home, living on what-
ever he could get in the woods, till death, at last,
ended his sorrows.
I shall never forget the story of a man who had
been lost for many days, but had, at last, luckily
wandered near some human habitations, and had
escaped. ' He was a timber-squarer — that is, he
squared the great trees which were intended for
exportation, the squaring making them lie closely
together, and thus effecting a saving in freight, and
had been employed on the Georgian Bay, amongst
the huge pine forests from which so many of those
wonderful masts, so much prized, are brought.
His cabin was at a good distance from his work,
which lay now at one point, and now at another.
Fortunately it was fine mild autumn weather, else
he would have paid his life for his misadventure.
On the morning of the unfortunate day, he had set
out at a very early hour, leaving his wife and fam-
ily in the expectation that he would return at night,
or within a few days at most. For a great wonder,
a fog chanced to be lying on t]
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334
Lost in the Woods.
! h**!
every thing at a few yard's distance, but he took it
for granted that he knew the road, and never
thought of any danger. On, therefore, he walked
for some time, expecting, every moment, to come
on some indication of his approach to his place of
work. At last, the fog rose, and, to his surprise,
showed that he had walked till nearly noon, and
was in a spot totally unknown to him. Every tree
around seemed the counterpart of its neighbor, the
flowers and fern were on all sides the same ; nothing
offered any distinguishing marks by which to help
him to decide where he was. The path along
which he had walked was a simple trail, the mere
beaten footsteps of wood men or Indians, passing
occasionally, and to add to his perplexity, every
here and there other trails crossed it, at different
angles, with nothing to distinguish the one from
the other.
It was not for some hours more, however, that
he began to feel alarmed. He took it foi- granted
he had gone too far, or had turned a little to one
side, and that he had only to go back, to come to
the place he wished to reach. Back, accordingly, he
forthwith turned, resting only to eat his dinner which
he had brought with him from home. But, to his
utter dismay, he saw the sun getting lower and
lower, without any sign of his nearing his " limit."
Gray shades began to stretch through the trees :
the silence around became more oppressive as they
increased ; the long white moss on the trees, as he
\\,h^
it
Lost in the Woods.
335
passed a swamp, looked the very image of desola-
tion ; and, at last, he felt convinced that he was
lost. As evening closed, every living thing around
him seemed happy but he. Like the castaway on
the ocean, who sees the sea-birds skimming the hol-
lows of the waves or toppling ever their crests, joy-
ful, as if they felt at home, he noticed the squirrels
disappearing in their holes ; the crows flying lazily
to their roosts ; all the creatures of the day betaking
themselves to their rest. There was no moon that
night, and if there had been, he was too tired to
walk further by its light. He could do no more
than remain where he was till the morninf; came
again. Sitting down, with his back against a great
tree, he thought of every thing by turns. Turning
round, he prayed on his bended knees, then sat
down again in his awful loneliness. Phosphoric
lights gleamed from the decayed trees on the
ground ; myriads of insects filled the air, and the
hooting of owls, and the sweep of night-hawks and
bats, served to fill his mind with gloomy fears, but
ever and anon, his mind reverted - to happier
thoughts, and to a growing feeling of confidence
that he should regain his way on the morrow.
With the first light he was on his feet once more,
after offering a prayer to his Maker, asking his help
in this terrible trial. He had ceased to conjecture
where he was, and had lost even the aid of a vague
track. Nevertheless, if he could only push on, he
thought he must surely make his escape before long.
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336
Xos^ m the Woods,
I I
The sun had a great sweep to make, and he was
young and strong. Faster and faster he pressed
forward as the hours passed, the agony of his mind
driving liim on the more hurriedly as his hopes
grew fainter. Fatigue, anxiety, and hunger were
meanwhile growing more and more unbearable.
His nerves seemed fairly unstrung, and as he threw
himself on the ground to spend a second night in
the wilderness, the shadow of death seemed to lower
over him. Frantic at his awful position, he tore
his hair, and beat his breast, and wept like a child.
He might, he knew, be near home, but he might,
on the other hand, be far distant from it. He had
walked fifty miles he was sure, and where in this
interminable wilderness had he reached ? His onl}^
food through the day had been some wild fruits
and berries, which were veiy scarce, and so acrid
that they pained his gums as he ate them. He had
passed no stream, but had found water in holes of
fallen trees. What he suffered that ni^ht no one
can realize who has not been in some similar
extremity. He had no weapon but his axe, and
hence, even if he came upon deer and other crea-
tures, he could not kill them — there seemed no
way to get out of the horrible labyrinth in which
he was now shut up. From the morning of the
third day his mind, he assured me, became so
bewildered that he could recollect very little of
what then took place. How he lived he could
hardly say — it must have been on frogs, and
i
;iii(
Lost in the Woods.
337
snakes, and grass, and weeds, as well as berries, for
there were too few of this last to keep hnii alive.
Once he was fortunate enouo;h to come on a tor-
toise, which he could not resist the temptation to
kill, though he knew that if he followed it quietly
it would guide him to some stream, and thus afford
him the means of escape. Its raw flesh gave him
two great meals. His clothes were iii tatters, his
face begrimed, his hair and beard matted, his eyes
hot and bloodshot, and his strength was failing fast.
On the tenth day he thought he could go no fur-
ther, but must lie down and die. But deliverance
was now at hand. As he lay, half unconscious,
from weakness of body and nervous exhaustion, he
fancied he heard the drip of oars. In an instant
every faculty was revived. His ear seemed to
gather unnatural quickness ; he could have heard
the faintest sound at a great distance. Mustering
all his strength, he rose, and with the utmost haste
made for the direction from which the cheerino;
sound proceeded. Down some slopes — up o])po-
site banks — and there at last the broad water lay
before him. He could not rest with the mere vis-
ion of hope, so on he rushed through the thick
brush, over the fretting of fallen timber and the
brown carpet of leaves, till he reached the river-
bank, which was sloping at the point where he
emerged, a tongue of land jutting out into the
water, clear of trees. To the end of this, with
anxiety indcjscribable, he rar<, and kneeled in th.e
29
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III iii
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338
Lo»t in the Woods,
|.n;.
\'i
attitude of prayer at once to God for his merciful
deliverance, and to man, when the boat should
come, whose approach he now heard more clearly
from afar, — that he might be taken to some human
dwelling. The boat did come — his feeble cry
reached it, and in a moment, when they saw his
thin arms waving for help as he kneeled before
them, the bows were turned to the shore, and he
was taken on board — the lost was found! He
fainted as soon as he was rescued, and such was
his state of exhaustion, that at first it seemed almost
impossible to revive him. But by the care of his
wife, to whom he was restored as soon as possible,
he gradually gathered strength, and when I saw
him some years after was hearty and vigorous.
The place where he was found was full thirty miles
fi'om his own house, and he must have wandered
altogether at least a hundred and fifty miles —
probably in a series of circles round nearly the same
points.
I'M
''The Windfall:'
389
CHAPTER XXI.
A tornado. — Bats. — Deserted lots. — American inquisitirevess. —
An election agent.
I HAVE already spoken of the belt of trees nin-
ning back some miles from us, familiarly called
" The Windfall," from their havino- been thrown
down by a hurricane many years before. Some
years after, when living for a time in another part
of the province, I had a vivid illustration of what
these terrible storms really are. It was a fine day,
and I was jogging along quietly on my horse. It
was in the height of summer, and every thing
around was in all the glory of the season. The tall
mints, with their bright flowers, the lofty Aaron's-
rod, the beautiful Virginia creeper, the wild convol-
vulus, and wild roses, covered the roadsides, jind
ran, as far as the light permitted them, into the
openings of the forest. The country was a long
roll of gentle undulations, with clear streamlets
every here and there in the hollows. The woods
themselves presented a perpetual picture of beauty
as I rode along. High above, rose the great oaks,
and elms, and beeches, and maples, w ith their tall
II
iiiM
uo
A Tornado,
:fv^
■ii
111
trunks free of brandies till they stretched far over-
head ; wliile round their feet, not too thiekly, hut
in such abundance as made the scene perfect,
^vaved younoj trees of all these kinds, intermixed
•with silver birclies and sumachs. My horse had
stopped of his own accord to drink at one of the
brooks that brawled under the rude brido;es across
the road, when, happening to look up, I noticed a
strange appearance in the sky, which I had not
observed before. A thick haze was descendino; on
the earth, like the darkness that precedes a storm.
Yet there was no other sign of any approaching
convulsion of nature. There was a profound hush
and gloom, but what it might forbode did not as yet
apj)ear. I was not, however, left long in igno-
rance. Scarcely had my horse taken its last
draught and forded across the brook, than a low
miu'murino; sound in the air, comino; from a dis-
tance, and unlike any thing I had ever heard
before, arrested my attention. A yellow spot in
the haze towards the south-west likewise attracted
my notice. The next moment the tops of the taller
trees began to swing in tlie wind, which presently
increased in force, and the light branches and
twigs began to break off. I was glad I happened
to be at an open spot, out of reach of immediate
danger, the edges of the brook being cleared for
some distance on both sides. Two minutes more,
and the storm burst on the forest in all its violence.
Huge trees swayed to and fro under its rude shock
■"f}ii
A Tornado.
341
jike tlie masts of ships on a tempestuous sea ; they
ruhbed and creaked like a sliip's timbers when slie
rolls, and the sky grew darker and darker, as it'
obscured by a total eclipse oF the sun. It was evi-
dent that the fury of the storm would not sweep
tlu'ourrh the open where I stood, but would sj)end
itself on the woods before me. jNleanwhile, as 1
looked, the Imge oaks and ma])les bent before the
tornado, the air was thick with their huije limbs,
twisted off in a moment, and the trees themselves
were fallino; in hundreds beneath the irresistible
power of the storm. I noticed that they always
fell with their heads in the direction of the hurri-
cane, as if they had been wrenched round and Hung
Lehind it as it passed. Some went down bodily,
others broke across, all yielded and sank in ruin
and confusion. The air cot blacker and blacker
— a cloud of branches and limbs of trees lilled the
whole breadth of the tempest, some of them flun<:5
by it, every now and then, high up in the air, or
dashed with amazino; violence to the o;i'ound. A
few minutes more, and it swept on to make similar
havoc in other parts. But it was long before the
air Avas clear of tlie wreck of the forest. The
smaller branchc- seemed to float in it as if upheld
by some current that was sucked on by the hui ri-
cane, though unfelt on the surface of the ground.
In a surprisingly short time a belt of the woods,
about an eighth of a mile in breadth, and rumiing I
cannot tell how far back, was one va^t chaos,
29*
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342
A Tornado,
througli wliicli no hiimiin efforts could find a way.
The same niglit, as we afterwards learned, the tor-
nado had struck points incredibly distant, taking a
■ ast sweep across Lake Ontario, ravaging^ a part
of New York, and finally rushing away to the
north in the neighborhood of Quebec.
The destruction it caused was not limited to its
ravages in the forest ; farmhouses, barns, orchards,
and fences, were swept away like chaff. I passed
one orchard in which every tree had been dragged
up and blown away ; the fences for miles, in the
jjath of the storm, were carried into the air like
straws, never to be found again ; tlie water in a
mill-])ond by the roadside was lifted fairly out of it,
and the bottom left bare. At one place a barn and
stables had been wrenched into fragmv^nts, the con-
tents scattered to the winds, and the very horses
lifted into the air, and carried some distance. Saw-
mills were stripped of their whole stock of " lum-
ber," every plank being swept up into the vortex,
and strewn no one knew whither. There were
incidents as curious as extraordinary in the events
of the day. A sheep was found on one farm, unin-
jured, beneath a huge iron kettle, which had been
carried off and capsized over the poor animal, as if
in sport. Wherever the storm passed through, the
forest was, from that moment, a tangled desolation,
left to itself, except by the beasts that might choose
a safe covert in its recesses. Thenceforth, the
briars and bushes would have it for their own, and
iff
Bats*
343
grow undisturbed. No human footstep would ever
turn towards it till all the standing forest around
had been cut down.
The bats were very plentiful in summer, and
used often to flv into the house, to the great terror
of my sister Margaret, who used to be as afraid of
a bat as Buftbn was of a squirrel. They were no
larojer than our EnMish bats, and undistinijuisha-
ble from them to an ordinary eye. Almost as
often as we went out on the fine wami evenings,
we were attracted by their flying hither and thither
below the branches of the trees, or out in the open
ground, beating the air with great rapidity with
their wonderful membranous wings. A bird pecu-
liar to America used to divide attention with them
in the twilight — the famous "whip-poor-will,"
one of the family of the goatsuckers ; of which, in
England, the night-jar is a well-known example.
It is amazing how distinctly the curious sounds,
from which it takes its name, are given ; they are
repeated incessantly, and create no little amuse-
ment when they come from a number of birds at
once. The flight of the whip-poor-will is very
rapid, and they double, and twist, and turn in a
surprising way. Their food is tlie large moths and
insects, any of which, I should think, they could
swallow, for it is true in their case at least, that
their "mouth is from ear to ear.'* The ga})e is
enormous, reaching even behind the eye ; and woe
betide any unfortunate moths or chaffers that may
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Deserted Lots.
'I .,
cross tlieir patli. It sees perft-'ctly by ni'>ichmen and Americans. I allude more
particularly to those of the humbler rank. I have
often laughed at the examples we met within our
intercourse, not only with these races, but with the
less polished of others, also, in Canada. I was
going do^Mi to Detroit on the little steamer Avhich
ased to luii l>v:tween the town and Lake Huron —
a steamer so Miiall that it was currently reported
among the boys. Chat one very stout lady in the
tosfriSL'o had m.'^u'e it lurch wdien she went on
boaid • and had ^-Ow on the u])pcr deck to look
round. The little* A.nei'ican village on the o})po-
r'Xf,
rf46
American Inquisitiveness.
k i •
■5 '
! '■ i
site side was " called at," and left, in a very few
minutes, and we were off again past the low shores
of the river. A little i)un;-nosed man, in a white
hat and white linen jacket, was the only one up
beside me ; and it was not in his nature, evidently,
tliat Ave should be lono; without talkino;. " Fine
captain-on this here boat ? " said he. I agreed
with him off hand ; that is, I took it for granted he
was so. " Yes, he's the likeliest captain I've seen
since 1 left Ohio. How plain you see whar the
boat run — look! AVell, we're leaving County-
seat right straight, I guess. Whar you born?"
"Where do you think?" I answered. "Either
Ireland or Scotland, anvhow." " No. You^re
Irish, at any rate, I su})pose ? " — I struck in.
''No, sir — no, sirree — I'm Yankee born, and
bred in Yankee town, and my parents afore me.
you travelling altogether ? " I asked him what
he meant, for I really didn't understand this ques-
tion. "Why, travelling for a living — what do
you sell ? " On my telling him he was wrong for
once, he seemed a little confounded ; but presently
recovered, and drew a bottle out of his breast-
pocket, adding, as he did so — " Will you take
some bitters ? " I thanked him, and said, I was
"temperance." "You don't drink none, then?
Well, I do ; " on which he suited the action to
the svord, putting the bottle back in its place
again, after duly wiping his lips on his .ufl*. But
liis questions w ere not done yet. " ^^' liar you
I
H
An Election Agent.
347
live ? " I told him. " Married man ? " I said I
had not the happiness of heing so. " How long
since you came from England ? " — I answered.
" You remember when you came ? " I said I
hoped I did, else my faculty must be failing. " I
guess you were pretty long on the waters ? " But
I was getting tir( d of his impudence, and so gave
him a laconic answer, and dived into the cabin out
of his way.
I was very much amused at a rencontre between
the " captain," who seemed a really respectable
man, and another of the passengers, who, it aj)])ear-
ed, had come on board without having money to pay
his fare. The offender was dressed in an unbleach-
ed linen blouse, with " dandy " trowsers, wide across
the body, and tapering to the feet, with worn straps
of the same material ; old boots of a fashionable make,
an open waistcoat, and an immensity of dirty-white
shirt-breast ; a straw hat, with a long green and
li^ac ribbon round it. A cigar in his mouth, a mock
ring on his finger, and a very bloodshot eye, com-
pleted the picture. It seemed he was a subordinate
electioneering agent, sent round to make stump
speeches for his party, and, generally, to influence
votes ; and the trouble with the captain evidently
rose from his wishino; to have his fare charixed to
the committee who sent him out, rather than
pay it himself. The captain certainly gave him
no quarter. " He's a low, drunken watchmaker,"
bald he, turning to me ; " I saw him last night
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348
An Election Ar/cnt.
Fpoiitinir away for Gunonil Cass on tlio steps of
tlie clmivli at Huron. The fellow wants to .>et
ott without payintr — 1 suppose we'll have to let
him." And he did. lie got through to tlieji
»>ui-
W'Y s enc
ill
A Journey to Niagara.
349
CHAPTER XXII.
A- j'Uirnoy to Niiipara. — 'River St. Clair. — Detroit. — A plavc's
o.scape. — An Aiiicricaii .SUamcr. — Ucscriplioii of the I'all.s of
Niagara. — l-'cartul catastrophe.
^piIR country on the St. Clair, tlioiirrli Leautiful
J from tlie jn'oscnce of tlie river, was, in itself,
flat and tame enouoli. AH Canada West, indeed,
is remaikal)lv level. The ridire of limestone hills
Avhieh runs aeross from the State of New York at
Niaii;ara, and stretches to the north, is the only
elevation greater than the round swells, which, in
some parts, make the landsca])e look like a succes-
sion of hi'oad hiack waves. The borders of the St.
Clair itself were hiixher than the land immediateiy
behind them, so that a belt of swamp ran ])arallel
with the stream, rich reaches of black soil risin<^
behind it throni»;li township after township. The
list of natural siohts in such a part was not great,
tliouij-h the charms of the few there were, were un-
fadino-. There was the river itself, and there was
the vast leafy ocean of ti'ee-tops, with the great
aisles with inniunerable j)illai"s stretching away un
derneath like some vast cathedral of nature ; but
these were conmion to all the country. The one
30
o60
Detroit.
I i
I
/i '!
M%\
Si
n f
rnvw
wonder of the land was at a distance. It was Niagara.
How we longed to see it! But it was some years
before an^'' of us could, and there was no opportunity
of going together. 1 had to set out by myself. It
was in the month of September, just before the
leaves began to turn. The weather was glorious —
not too warm, and as briixht as in Italy. I started
in the little steamer for Detroit, ])assing the Indian
settlement at Walpole Island, the broad flats cov-
ered with coarse grass, toward the entrance of
Lake St. Clair, and at last, threading the lake itself,
through the channel marked out across its shallow
and muddy breadth, by long lines of poles, like
telegrajjhs on each side of a street. Detroit was
the London of al' the folks on the river. They
bought every thing they wanted there, it being easy
of access, and its size offerino; a larijer choice than
could be obtained elsewhere. It is a o;i't?at and
growing }dace ; though, in the lifetime of a person
still living — General Cass — it was only the little
French villat2;e which it had been for a hundred
years before. Taking the steamer to Buffalo,
W'hich started in an hour or two after I cot to
Detroit, I was once more on my way as the after-
noon was drawincT to a close. We were to call at
various British ports, so that I 1 ad a chance of
feeing different j)arts of the province that I had not
ret visited. The first step in our voyage was to
cross to Sandwich, the village on the Canadian
shore, opposite Detroit, from which it is less than a
A Slaveys Eacape.
851
agara.
years
tujiity
If. it
re the
ous —
started
Indian
:s cov-
nce of
c itself,
diallow
.^s, like
:)it was
They
lio; easy
than
t and
person
e little
indred
ufi'alo,
o-Qt to
after-
all at
Ince of
d not
,'as to
iiadian
han a
mile distant. I was glad to see a spot so sacred to
liberty — for Sandwich is the great point which the
fugitive slaves, from every part of the Union, eager-
ly attempt to reach. I felt proud of my country
at the thought that it was no vain boast, but a
glorious truth, that slaves could not breathe in
Enij-land. nor on British soil ; that the first touch
of it by th(i foot of the bondsman broke his fetters
and made him free forever. I was so full of the
thought, that when we were once more under
weigh it naturally became the subject of conversa-
tion with an intelligent fellow-traveller, who had
come on board at Sandwich. " 1 was standing at
my door," said he, " a week or two ago, when I
saw a skiff* with a man in it, rowing, in hot haste,
to our side. How the oars flashed — how his back
bent to them — how he pulled ! It w^as soon evi-
dent what was his object. As he came near, I saw
he was a negro. Though no one was pursuing, he
could not take it easy, and, at last, with a great
bend, he swept up to the bank, pulled up the skiif,
and ran up to the road, lea])ing, throwing up his hat
in the air, shouting, singing, laughing — in short,
fairly beside himself with excitement. ' I'm free !
I'm free ! — no more slave ! ' was the burden of his
loud rejoicing, and it was long before he calmed
down enouo;h for any one to ask him his stoiT. He
had come all the way up the Mississippi from
Arkansas, travelling by night, lying in the woods
by day, living on corn pulled from the fields, or on
Hi
H
t.een a ■naember of the
C-tnadian Parliament, and was then on the boat
with him, d«'terni;:ned, iif possible, to cheat the men-
steah-rs of iif^ir p^^^ Bn'aking his design to the
colore*i cook, and tiirouoh him netting the secret
An American Steamer.
353
aid of all tlie other colored men on the hoat, lie
waited till thev reached Buffalo, some of the con-
federates having previously told the poor slaves tlu;
schenae that was afoot. As the boat i^ot alonnside
the wi)arf, seizing a moment when his ouards had
left him, the gallant young fellow elfectnally severed
the rope that bound the slave, and, telling him to
follow him instantly, dashed over the gangway to
the wharf, and leaped into a skitf which was lying
at hand, with oars in it readv, the neirro following
at his heels in a moment ; then, pushing otf, he
struck out into the lake, and reached Canada safelv
with his livino; triumoh. The story made a thrill
run throuo;h me. It was a brave deed darinirlv
done. The risk was great, but the object was noble,
and he nuist have had a fine spirit who braved the
one to accomplish the other.
Tlie steamer itself was very different from those
with which I had been familiar in Eniiland. In-
stead of cabins entirely below the deck, the body
of the shi[) was reserved for a dining-room, sur-
rounded by berths, and one portion of it covered in
for cargo ; the ladies' cabin was raised on the back
part of the main deck, with a walk all round it ;
then came an open space with sofas, which was like
a hail or lobby for receiving ])assengers or letting
them out. Next to this, at the sides, was a long
set of offices, facing the engine-room in the centre,
and reaching beyond the paddle-boxes, l>oth the
side and central structures beino; continued for some
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8,5-4
An American Steamer.
ill:
Ihi'
distance, to make places for tlio cook's galley, for
a bur for selling spirits and cigars, for a barber's
sliop, and for I know not what other conveniences.
Covering in all these, an npper deck stretched the
whole length of tlie ship, and on this rose the great
cabin, a long room, })rovided with sofas, mirrors,
carpets, a piano, and every detail of a huge draw-
ing-room, — innumerabh? doors at each side open-
ing into sleeping places for the gentlemen tnivellers.
It was a fine sight, with its profusion of gilding and
white paint on the walls and ceiling, its })aintings
on panels at regular intervals all round, its showy
furniture, and its company of both sexes. You
could get on the top even of this cabin, if you liked,
or, if you thought you were high enough, might go
out on the open space at each end, where seats in
abundance awaited occupants. The whole' struc-
ture, seen from the wharf when it stopped at any
place, was more like a floating house than a ship,
and seemed very strange to me at first, with its two
stories above the deck, and its innumerable doors
and windows, and its dazzling white color from stem
to stern. Such vessels may do well enouoh for
calm weather or for rivers, but they are far from
safe in a storm at any distance from land. The
wind catches them so fiercely on their m-eat hiiili
works that they are like to capsize, when a low-built
ship would be in no danger. Indeed, we had a
proof of this on coming out of Buffalo to cross to
Chippewa ; for as the wind had blown during the
An American Steamer,
355
ley, for
larber's
liences.
led the
e great
iiirrors,
3 draw-
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ivellers.
iiiii: and
iiiiitiiiiis
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. \4S80
(716) 872-4503
•^
358
The Falls of Niagara.
hi
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■ It.
while you stand by, may well give such a sound as
overwhelms the listener's sense of hearing. It is
no use attempting to picture the scene. It was
some time before I could go near the edge, but at
last, when my head was less dizzy, I went out on tliu
projecting point called the Table Rock, which has,
however, long since fallen into the abyss, and there,
on a mere ledge, from which all beneath had been
eaten away by the spray, I could let the spectacle
gradually fill my mind. You cannot see Ni.ig-
ara at once ; it takes day after day to realize its
vastness. I was astonished at the slow unbroken
fall of the water. So vast is the quantity hanging
in the air at any one moment, that it moves down
in a great green sheet, with a slow, awful descent.
The patches of white formed in spots here and
there showed how majestically it goes down to the
abyss. Think of such a launching of a great river,
two thousand feet in breadth, over a sudden preci-
pice — the smooth flow above — the green crest
— the massy solidity of the descent — and then the
impenetrable clouds of watery sj)ray that hide the
bottom. Yet at the edge it was so shallow that
one might have waded some steps into it without
apparent danger. Indeed, I noticed men one day
damming it back some feet, in a vain attempt to
get out the body of a poor man who had leaped
over. They hoped it would be found jammed
among the rocks at the bottom, within reach, if
this side water were forced back. But if it ever
Tlie Falls of Niagara.
359
liad been, it was since washed away, and no efforts
could recover it. Descending a spiral staircase
close to tlie Table Rock, I had another view from
below ; and what words can convey the impression
of the deej), trembling boom of the waters, as you
caught it thus confined in the abyss ? It was ter-
rible to look into the cauldron, smoking, heaving,
foaming, rushing, as far as the eye could see*
through the mist. A slope of fragments from
the side of the rock offered a sli|)pery path up to
the thick curtain of the Falls, and you could even
go behind it if you chose. But I had not nerve
enough to do so, though several parties ventured in,
after having put on oilskin clothes ; guides, who
live in part by the occu})ation, leading them on
their way. Overhead, Table Rock reached far out,
awaiting its fall, which I felt sure could not be lonjr
delayed. In crossing it I noticed a broad crack,
which each successive year would, of course, deepen.
On every ledge, up to the top of the precipice, grass
and flowers, nourished by the incessant spray,
relieved the bareness, and in the middle of the
river, dividing the Horse-shoe Fall from the Amer-
ican, the trees on Goat Island dimly showed them-
selves through the ascendinanied as it ever was with
the stunninir, deafenini • -
3Gi
The Falh of Nitfjara.
in.i!;s, find stuck fast at some distance above Gnat
l>land. Tlie two shot out into tlie broken water,
and were carried witli terril)le swiftness down
toward tlie " scow,*' into wliicli tlie son sprani;' as
tlu'V shot j)ast, fastening tlic skiff to it as lie did so.
llavini: taken olf the jxoods they wished to save,
the skill', with hoth on board, was once more
pushed off, and flew like an arrow on the foaming
water, toward the Three Sisters — the name (»r
some rocks above Goat Island. The fate of the
two men seemed to be sealed, for they were near-
ino- the centre Fall, and, to go over it, would be
instant death. But they nianao;ed, when on its
vei'y verj^e, to i)ush into an eddy, and reach tlie
second Sister. On this, they landed, and havino;
draiiiied ashore the skiff, carried it to the foot of the
island, a proof that the " property " they wished
to rescue could not have weighed very much.
There, they once more launched it, and making a
bold sweep down the ra[)ids, their oars going with
their utmost streniith, tliev succeeded in reaching'
the shore of Goat Island in safety, thouMi it seems
to me as if, after thus tempting their fate, they
baldly deserved to do so.
I was very much struck by the appearance of the
rapids above the Falls, on a visit I made to an
island some distance up the river, in the very mid-
dle of them. A fine broad bridixe, built by tho
owner of the island, and of the neighboring shore,
The Falls of Niai/ara.
365
enal)los vou to reach it witli oaso. It lies about
half-way In'tween Chipjxnva and the Falls, on tlio
British sido. The whole surf'aee of the <:;ivat
stream is hroken into a lon^ cascade, each leaj) of
which is made with more swit'tness than the one
beloie. It is a wild, tunudtuous scene, and forms
a Ht j)relnde to the spectacle to which it leads.
Accidents occasionally ha])])('n here also. Jnst
before I visited it, a little child had strayed fi'om a
j)arty with whom she was, and must have falKii
into the stream, as she was never seen aiiain after
beinii" missed.
Some years ago, a number of people in tho
neiii;hborliood formed the straniie wish to see a boat,
laden with a variety of animals, go down these
raj)ids and over the Falls. It was a cruel and idle
curiosity which could dictate such a thought, but
they managed to get money enough to purchase a
bear and some other animals, which were duly
launched, nnpiloted, from the shore near Chij)pewa.
From whatever instinctive sonse of dantrcr it would
be impossible to say, the creatures apj)eared very
soon to be alarmed. The bear jumped overboard
on seeing the mist of the Falls, as the people on the
spot say, and by great efforts, managed to swim
across so far that he was carried down to (ioat
Island. The other animals likewise tried to escape,
but in vain. The only living creatures that re-
mained in the boat were some geese, which could
81*
3G0
The Falls of Niayara.
not liave cscapecl if they liad wislied, tlieir wind's
liiivin<^ been eut sliort. They went over, and sev-
eral were killed at onee, though, curiously en()u<;h,
some nianao;od, by flutterini, you ean see
uj) and down the river, and over into the awful
abyss, but my head is not steady enouo;h to stand
lookin<»; into such u depth. How Hlondin ecild
j)ass over on his I'ope has always been ineomprehen-
sible to me ; the bridge itself was not broad enouiih
for my nerves. Yet he i)erformed his wonderful
feat ajjiain and aoain, close l)y, and each time with
accumulated dilHculties, until, when the Prince of
Wales visited Niai^ara, he actually carried over a
man on his back from the Canadian to the Ameri-
can side, and came back on stilts a yard high, play
inhan water, i here are stories ai)out the
strenn;th of the current, howevf-r, that shows it to
be greater tliaii i.. apparenl from a little distance.
A deserter, some yeavs nlank. I>ut the stream was
stronger than he had supposed ; and in ^j)ite of all
his efforts, he was foiced down to this, eirclinir hor-
ror, which speedily sent him and his jdank round
and round in m-aduallv eontraetinir whirls, imtil,
after a time, they reached the centre. There was
no pushing out, and the ])oor wretch wis kept
revolving, with each end of his su})port sunk in the
vortex by turns, requiring him to crawl backwards
and forwards unceasingly for move tlian a da},
before means were found to brino; him to land.
Somebody said at the time that he would surely
become an expert circumnavigator after such n
training ; but his miraculous escape has most [)rol)a-
bly not induced many others to make the same
venturesome voyage.
ihe village of Drummondville, a little back from
the Falls, on the British side, is memorable as the
*'
Iff
i: i '!;
i-^-ff
mo
A Sad Mistake,
1 i
sciMie of the Battle of Lundy's Lane, in the war of
1812-1814. I was fortunate enou<^h to meet with
an intelligent man, who, when a boy, had seen the
battle from a distance ; and he went with me over
the ground. In passing through a garden, on which
a tine croj) of Indian corn was waving, he stopped
to tell me tliat on the evening after the battle, he
saw a number of soldiers come to this spot, which
was then an open field, and commence digging a
great pit. Curious to know all they were doing,
he went up and stood beside them, and found it
was a grave for a number of poor fellows who had
been shot by mistake in the darkness of the night
before. An aide-de-camp had been sent off in hot
haste down to Queenston from the battle, to order
up reinforcements as quickly as possible, and had
been obeyed so promptly that our forces on the
field could not believe they had come when they
heard them marching up the hill, but supposing
they must be Americans, fired a volley of both can-
non and musketry into their ranks. There they lie
now, without any memorial, in a private garden,
which is dug up every year, and replanted over
their bones, as if there were no such wreck of brave
hearts sleeping below. In the churchyard there
were a number of tablets of wood, instead of stone,
marking the graves of officers slain in the conflict.
I picked up more than one which had rotted off at
the ground, and were lying wherever the wind had
carried them. Peach-trees, laden with fruit, hang
The Seneca Indians,
371
over and amidst the graves, and sheep were nibbling
the grass. But what seemed the most vivid remi-
niscence of the strife was a wooden house, to wliich
my guide led me, the sides and ends of which were
perforated with a great number of holes made on
the day by musket-balls ; a larger hole here and
there, showing where a cannon had also sent its
missile through it. I was suqirised to see it inhab-
ited, with so many apertures unstopped outside ;
but perhaps it was plastered within.
Every part of the Niagara frontier has, indeed,
its own story of war and death. On the way to
Queenston I passed a gloomy chasm, into which
the waters of a small stream, called the Bloody Run,
fall, on their course to the river. It got its name
from an incident in the old French war, very
characteristic of the times and the country. A
detachment of British troops was marching up the
banks of the Niagara with a convoy of wagons, and
had reached this point, when a band of Seneca
Indians, in the service of the French, leaped out
from the woods immediately over the precipice, und
uttering from all sides their terrible war-whoop,
rushed down, pouring in a deadly volley as they
closed, and hurled them and all they had, soldiers,
wagons, horses, and drivers, over the cliifs into the
abyss below, where they were dashed to pieces on
the rocks. It was the work almost of a moment ;
they were gone before they could collect themselves
together, or realize their position. The little stream
o 1 1^
Brock's 3Iotiument.
I'i}
I (
was red witli their Llood, and out of the whole num-
ber only two es('aj)ed — the one a soldier, who, as
by miracle, •'
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I
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38-4
An Irish Laborer.
'if
Mfii
w
alike miserable. At last he seemed to have cot
throiio-]i his lamentations, and his neio;hbor struck
in — " Well, at any rate, Mr. M'Craw, you can't
say but your turnips are first-rate this year ; why,
one of them will fill a bucket when you cut it up
for the cattle." But Mr. M'Craw was not to be
beaten, and had a ready answer. " They're fni
owre guid — I'll never be fit to use them — the
half o' them* 'ill rot in the grund, if they dinna
choke the pvJr kye wi the size o' them,"' The
whole of us laughed, but ]\Ir. M'Craw only shook
his head. As we w^ere trottino; alonn a very long time to get so far at such a snail" s
pace ; but time would eventually take a snail round
the world, if it had enough of it, and they seemed
to lay no stress whatever on the rate of their pro-
gress. They had two horses, two cows, and the
wagon, to take with them, until they should reach
their new neighborhood ; and to accomplish that
was worth some delay. One of my fellow-travel-
lers told me that such waj^on-loads were then an
every-day sight on the road past Brantford ; and
indeed I can easily believe it. Michigan was then
a garden of Eden, according to popular report ;
but it was not long in losing its fame, which pat^sed
to Wisconsin, and from that has passed to other
States or territories since. The New Enfjland folks
are as much given to leaving their own country as
any people, and much more than most. Their own
State are too poor to keep them w^ell at home ; and
they have energy, shrewdness, and very often high
principle, which make them welcome in any place
where they may choose to settle in preference.
I know parts in some of the New England States
where there are hardly any young men or young
women ; they have left for the towns and cities
more or less remote, where they can best push
their fortunes. It is the same very much in
Nova Scotia, and, indeed, must be so with all poor
countries.
388
A Potato Pit,
I was very f]!;lacl, when I got home, to find all
my circle quite well, and had a busy time of" it for
a jjood while, tellinn' them all I had seen and heard.
They were busy with tlieir fall-work — o;c'ttin;Li; the
])otatoes and turnips put into pits, to keep them
from the frost when it should set in. and m'ttin*^
ready a great stock of firewood. Our ])it was u
curious affair, which I should have mentioned ear-
lier, since we made it in the second fall we were
on the river. We dug a great hole like a grave,
many feet deep, large enough to hold a Inuidred
bushels of potatoes, and I don't know what besides.
The bottom of this excavation was then strewed
with loose boards, and the sides were walled round
with logs, set up side by side, to keep the earth
from falling in. On the top, instead of a roof, we
laid a floor of similar logs, close together, and on
this we heaj)ed up earth to the thickness of about
three fi3et, to keep out the cold, however severe it
miiiht be. The entrance was at one end, down a
short ladtler, which brought you to a door, roughly
fitted in. The first year it was made, we })aid for
imperfect acquaintance with such things by bringing
a heavy loss on ourselves. We had put in eighty
bushels of ])otatoes, and, to keep out the least trac^
of frost, filled uj) the hole where the ladder was
with earth. But in the spring when we oi)ened
the pit to get out our seed, we found the whole
heap to be worthless. 1 i-emember the day very
well ; it was vQvy bright and beautiful, and we
The Winter's Wood.
339
were all in liigli spirits. The earth was removed
from the ladder end in a very short time, and young
Grahame, one of a neighbor's boys, asked leave to
go in first, and bring out the first basketful. Down
lie lea[)ed, pulled open the door, and crept in. We
waited a minute, but there was no sijxn of his com-
ing out again. We called to him, but got no an-
swer ; and at last I jumped down to find the poor
little fellow overpowered from the effects of the
carbonic acid gas, with which the pit was filled.
The earth at the ladder end had entirely prevented
the necessary ventilation, and the potatoes had
" heated," and had become perfectly rotten. We
managed better after this by putting straw instead
of earth into the opening ; but the right plan would
have been to sink a small hollow tube of wood —
a slender piece of some young tree,*vvith the middle
scooped out, through the top, to serve as a ventila-
tor. It was a great loss to us, as the potatoes
were then at the unusual price of a dollar a bushel,
and eighty dollars were to us, at that time, a small
fortune.
The laying in the winter's wood was a tedious
affair : it was cut in the fall, and part of it dragged
by the oxen to the house in the shape of long logs ;
but we left the greater part of the drawing till the
snow came. It was a nasty job to cut off each day
what would serve the kitchen, and keep the fires
brisk ; and I sometimes even yet feel a twinge of
conscience at the way I used to dole out a fixed
33*
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890
Chopping Firewood.
number of ])ieccs to my sisters, keeping it as small
as possible, and much smaller than it should have
been. I was willinji enouixli to work at most thinjis,
and can't blame myself for being lazy ; but to get
u)) from the warm fire on a cold morning to chop
fire-wood, was freezing work ; though this should
certainly not have kept me from cutting a few
more sticks, after all. I am afraid we are too apt
to be selfish in these trifles, even when we are the
very reverse in things of more moment. If I had
the chance, now I am older, I think 1 would atone
for my stinginess, cost me what freezing it might.
I
TJioughts for the Future,
391
CHAPTER XXV.
Thoughts for the future. - Changes. - Too hard study. - Education
in Canada. - Christmas markets. - Winter a.uusen.ents. - kc
boats. _ Very cohl ice. - Oil-springs. - Changes on the farni.-
(xrowth of Canada. -The American climate. -Old England
again.
VTTHEN we liad been five years on the form,
^ and Henry and I, and the girls, were now
getting to be men and women, the question of what
we slioidd do to get started in tlie world, became
more and more pressing. Robert wished to get
married ; Henry and I, and the two girls, all alike,
wanted to be off; and the farm was clearly unfit to
support more than one household. It took a long
time for us to come to any conclusion, but at laJt
we decided that Robert should have the land, that
the girls should be sent for a time to a school down
the country, and Henry and I should go to To-
ronto, he to study medicine, and I law. Of course,
all this could not be managed at once, but it was
greatly facilitated by remittances from my brothers
in England, who undertook by far the lai'ger pro-
portion of the cost. I confess I felt more sorrow at
leaving the old place than I had expected, tliough
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392
Too hard Stady.
it was still for years to be my lioine whenever I got
free for a time ; and it was l(jng before I eould get
fairly into Blackstone, and Chitty, and Smith.
Had I known how my life would ultimately turn,
I don't think I should ever have troubled them, for
liere I am now, my law laid aside, snugly in Eng-
land again, a partner in the mercantile establish-
ment of my brothers, who had continued at home.
I did not like the law in its every-day details of
business, though all must recognize the majesty of
the great principles on which the whole fabric rests ;
and I got tired utterly of the country, at last, per-
haps from failing health, for I bent with too much
zeal to my studies when I once began. The
chance of leavino; Canada for my native land was
thus unspeakably pleasing ; and it rewarded the
gratitude with which I once more reached it, by
giving me back a good part of the strength I had
lost. When I look back on the years I spent over
my books, and remember liow I presumed on my
youth, and tasked myself night and day to continu-
ous work, it seems as if my folly had only been
matched by my guilt. To undermine our health is
to trifle with all our advantages at once. Honest,
earnest work is all well enough, and nobody can
ever be any thing without it, but if there be too
much of it, it defeats its own object, and leaves him
who has overtaxed himself behind tliose who have
made a more discreet use of their strength. I
would gladly give half of what I learned by all my
Too hard Study.
393
years ofclo.se study, for some of the health I lost in
acquiring it. Indeed, I question if I gained more,
after all my fagging on with a wearied body and
mind, than I would if I liad taken pro{)er relaxa-
tion and amusement, and returned fresh and vigor-
ous to my books. Tlie Genoese archers lost the
battle of Cressy by a shower falHng on their bow-
strings, wdiile those on our side gained it by having
their weapons safely in cases till the chjuds were
past. So, no doubt, it should be in our manage-
ment of those powers within, on which our success
in student life depends — let them be safely
shielded betimes, and they will be fresh for action
when others are relaxed and useless. How nnich
time is spent when the mind is wearied, without
our being able to retain any thing of what we read!
How often have I closed my book, at last, with the
feeling that really it might have been shut long
before. I read in the ofKce, and out of it, when-
ever I had a chance ; had some book or other on
the table at my meals ; kept rigidly from visiting
friejids, that I mioht economize every moment ;
poked my fire, and lighted a fresh candle at mid-
ni<>ht, and gained some knowlediic, indeed, but at
the cost of white, or rather yellow cheeks — a stoop
of the shoulders, and a hollow chest — cold feet, 1
fear, for life, and a stomach so weak that I am sel-
dom without a memento of my folly in the pi in it
gives me. An hour or two in the open air every
day would have saved me all these abatements, and
f
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394
Education in Canada.
would lia/e quickened my powers of work so as
more tliiin to make up fur their being indulged in a
little l)lay.
Since my day, great facilities liave been afforded
in Canada for education. There are now gram-
mar schools, with very moderate fees, in every
])art of the country, and a lad or young man can
very easily get a scholarship which takes him free
through the University at Toronto.* Every
county has one or more to give away each year.
There is thus every chance for those who wish to
rise, and Canada will no doubt show some notable
results from the facility she has liberally provided
for the encouragement of native genius and talent.
My b(;ing for a length of time in a town showed
me new features of a colonial life which I should
in vain have looked for in the country. In many
respects I might easily have forgotten I was in
Canada at all, for you might as well speak of get-
ting a correct idea of England from living in a pro-
vincial town, as of Canada by living in the streets
of Toronto. The dress of the people is much the
same as in Britain. Hats and lio-ht overcoats are
not entirely laid aside even in winter, tUough fur
caps and gauntlets, after all, are much more com-
mon. The ladies sweep along with more show
* The university has been long cstablislied, but since I attended
its classes, it has been put on a more liberal basis — the number
of chairs enlarged, and facilities for obtaining its advantages
greatly increased.
Christinas Markets.
395
than in Encrland, as if tlicy dressed for out of door
display especially ; but they .are, no doubt, temj»ted
to tliis by the elearnees and dryness of the air,
which neither soils nor injures fine thin<::;s, as the
coal-dust and dampness does in English towns.
The most plainly-dressed ladies I used to see were
the wife and daujiliters of the o;overnor-ii;eneral.
The markets at Christmas were usually a <:!;reater
attraction to many ])eople than they used to be in
England. If the weather chanced to be cold, you
would see hur^e files of frozen pigs standing on their
four legs in front of the stalls, as if they had been
killed when at a gallop ; countless sheep hung
over-head, with here and there one of their heads
carefully gilded, to add splendor to the exhibition.
Some deer were almost always noticed at some of
the stalls, and it was not unusual to see the carcase
of a bear contributing its part to the general show.
As to the oxen, they were too fat for my taste,
though the butcher seemed to be proud of them in
proportion to their obesity. The market was not
confined to a special building, though there was one
for the purpose. Long ranges of farmers' wagons,
ranged at each side of it, showed similar treasures
of frozen i)ork and mutton, the animals standing
entire at the feet of their owners, who sat among
them waiting for purchasers. Frozen geese, ducks,
chickens, and turkeys abounded, and that house-
hold was very poor indeed which had not one or
other to grace the festival.
896
Winter Amusements.
■ n 1 ('
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n::
mi^
Winter Avas fi n;roat time for amusement to the
townspeople, from tlic nearness of the hroad bay
wlii(;li in summer forms tlieir liarbor, antl, after the
frost, tlieir ])lace of recreation. It was (i;eneraliy
turned into a great sheet of ice across its whole
breadth of two miles, some time about Christmas,
and continued like rock till the middle of April.
As long as there were no heavy falls of snow to
bury it, or after they had been blown oft' by the
wind, the skatino; was universal. Bovs and men
alike gave way to the passion for it. The ice was
covered with one restless throno; from mornino; to
night. School-boys made for it as soon as they got
free ; the clerks and shopmen were down the
instant the shutters were up and the door fastened ;
even ladies crowded to it, either to skate with the
assistance of some gentleman, or to see the crowd,
or to be pushed along in chairs mounted on run-
ners. The games of diff*erent kinds played between
large numbers were very exciting. Scotchmen
with theh" " curling," others with balls, battering
them liitliev' and thither, in desperate efforts to
carry them to a particular boundary. Then thei-e
were the ice-boats gliding along in every direction,
with their loads of well-dressed people reclining on
them, and their huge sail swellino; overhead.
These contrivances were new to me, though I had
been so long in Canada. They consist of a three-
cornered frame of wood, large enough to give room
for five or six people lying down or sitting on them,
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The Icc'lntde of Toronto.
397
the upper sich^ boarded over, and the K)\ver shod on
each angle witli an iron runner. A mast and sail
near the sliarp point wliicli (^oes foremost furnish
the means ot propulsion. Tlie two lonijest runners
are HxcmI, but the short one at tlio l)aek is worked
by a lielni, the steersman havini; aetual control of
the machine by its aid, and kee))in;^^ within reach
the cleats of tlie sail, that he may loosen or tiifhten
it as he sees necessary. Many of the lads about
■were very skilful in manamni:; them, anil wcndd sail
as close to the wind, and veer and tack, as if they
were in an ordinary boat in the water, instead of an
oddly-shaped sleiii;h on ice. A very little wiiul suf-
ficed to drive them at a fjood speed if the ice was
good, and there was a good deal of excitement in
watchinii" the cracks and air-holes as you rushed
over them. I have seen them sometimes iioincr
with great rapidity. They say, indeed, that occa-
sionally they cross the harbor in less than four min-
utes — a rate of speed ei^ual to nearly thirty miles
an hour.
The ice-trade of Toronto is a considerable branch
of industry durino; the winter, and r the stump
on a stroncr frame of wood which is made to enclose
it ; some iron grapnels are fastened into it on dif-
ferent sides, and a long pole put sticking out at one
side for a horse, and then — after some twists —
away it goes, with far more et'*-'^ t' n would be
tlumo-lit possible. The outlvino; roots have, of
course, to be cut away first, and a good deal of dig-
ging done, to let the screw, and the horse or horses,
have every chance, but it is a much more expedi-
tious plan than any other known in Canada, and
must be a i^reat comfort to the farmer by lettincr
him plough and harrow without going round a wil-
derness of stumps in each field.
A singular discovery has beei? made of late yeu-
about ten miles behind Robert's farm in Bidv ort.
of wells yielding a constant supply of petrokvpi rr
rock oil, instead of water. The quantity obtained
is enormous, and as the oil is of a very fine quality
and fit for most ordinary puqwses, it is of great
value. Strangely enough, not only in Canada but
also in the States, the same unlooked-for source has
been found at about the same time, supplying the
Siime kind of oil. The wells of Pennsylvanju are
amazingly productive. I hive been assured chat
there is a small river in on 3 of the townshipb of the
Oil Springs,
401
have
been
by a
con-
;tump
iclose
in (1 it-
it one
ists —
lid be
e, of
of dig-
iiorses,
ixpedi-
[a, and
etting
a wil-
yor'-L"
\(\\ ort.
^tained
luality
o;reat
lla but
Ice has
i£f the
li'
are
that
lof the
State, called Oil Creek, which is constantly covered
with a thick coat of oil, from the quantity that
oozes from each side of the banks. The whole soil
around is saturated with it, and this, with the
necessity of fording the w^ater, has destroyed a
great many valuable horses, which are found to get
inflamed and useless in the legs by the irritation
the oil causes. Wells are sunk in every part of
the neighborhood, each of which spouts up oil as an
artesian well does water, and that to such an amaz-
ing extent, that from some of them, hundreds of
barrels, it is affirmed, have been filled in a day.
Indeed, there is one well, which is known by the
well of " The Brawly," which, if we can believe
the accounts given, in sixty days spouted out thirty-
three thousand barrels of oil, and some others are
alleged to have yielded more than two thousand
barrels in twenty-four hours. Unfortunately, pre-
parations had not, in most cases, been made for
catching this extraordinary quartity, so that a great
proportion of it ran off and was lost. The depth
of the well varies. Some are close to the surface,
but those which yield most are from five to eight
hundred feet deep, and there, seemed to reach a
vast lake of oil which is to all ajipearance inex-
haustible. They manage to save the whole pro-
duce now by lining the wells, which are mere holes
about six inches in diameter, for some depth with
copper sheathing, and putting a small })ipe with
stop-cocks in at the top, which enables them to con-
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402
Oil S2)rings.
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trol the flow as easily as tliey do that of water.
If we think of the vast quantities of coal stored up
in different parts, it will diminish our astonishment
at the discovery of these huge reservoirs of oil, for
both seem to have the same source, from the vast
beds of vegetation of the early eras of the globe ;
if, indeed, the oil does not often rise from decom-
position of coal itself, for it occurs chiefly in the
oal measures. We shall no doubt have full scien-
tific accounts of them, after a time, and as they
become familiar we shall lose the feel in 2: of wonder
which they raised at first. Except to the few who
are thouHitful, nothincr that is not new and stran